Where Berlin February 2016

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Berlin

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

Love stories, romantic walks, sparkling gifts

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB FEB COVERS .indd 9

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come and dine in the unique atmosphere of hard rock cafe berlin and enjoy american cuisine, fabulous memorabilia and music!

Hard Rock Cafe Berlin is located directly on the Ku’damm - Berlin’s famous shopping street.

Rock Shop is open daily from 10:00am - midnight.

kurfürstendamm 224 / 10719 berlin / +49-(0)30-884 62 0

join hardrockrewards.com

/hardrockcafeberlin

/hardrockberlin

©2014 Hard Rock International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved.

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Berlin

02.16

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

SHOPPING

2XX0

5 Editor’s Note 6 Hot Dates Highlights of this month's events, from Frozen Worlds to Chinese monks and Carnival.

No more bad hair days with this list of top-class coiffeurs.

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SIGHTSEEING

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XX tumultuous past gave Berlin's rise to some of the most infamous prisons in history.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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C/O XXBerlin showcases everyday life in the US and the absurdities of East Germany.

DINING

The bible of restaurant ratings XXcrowned even more Berlin has dining rooms with Michelin stars.

10 58 My Perfect Day Ruby Barber Owner of upmarket flower shop Mary Lennox shares a few tips for fellow botany enthusiasts.

The German capital one-ups Hollywood with the prestigious Berlinale film festival.

Also Inside

Old-fashioned vaudeville entertainment served with a side of gourmet fare.

Torsten Kaminski of the RitzCarlton undeniably loves his Akazienkiez neighborhood.

Where Now

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Berlin's jewelers never fail to sparkle with adornments.

BY HILDA HOY

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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14 All That Glitters

The best cinema destinations for popcorn and undubbed English-language films.

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HILDA HOY

Love stories, romantic walks, sparkling gifts

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BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT AND

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Die-hard romantics are kept busy exploring the passionimbued sides of the city.

16 Let's Go To The Movies

H.-v.GagernStr.

10 From Berlin, With Love

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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®

ESSENTIALS

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Berlin

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

Cover image © iStock

NIGHTLIFE

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53 Ask The Concierge

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ENTERTAINMENT

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HOLIDAY ON ICE: COURTESY OF HOLIDAY ON ICE; JEWELRY BY GOLDBERG SCHMUCK; COUPLE: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; VEST BY CLOSED; VABALI: COURTESY OF VABALI SPA.

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

With Love And Friendship Ah, love! The feeling that has inspired humans ever since the beginning of time takes center stage each February, with candlelit dinners and sweet nothings whispered in each other's ears while watching a romantic movie or a sweeping view from a rooftop.

But Valentine's Day is not just for lovers. It is also a day to stop and think of what C.S. Lewis defined as "the happiest and most fully human of all loves": friendship. To me, it is a combination of mutual understanding, encouragement and respect, shared intimacy, secrets, and life-enhancing moments. It is the relationship that most intensifies the quality of our existence, and the basis for any good-quality romantic partnership destined to last. So let's take the time to think of our closest friends and let them know how we feel about them. Whether we send them a card, a Berlin souvenir, or just an email, let's not forget to cultivate the most valuable affinities of our lives.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

Happy Valentine's Day! SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

permanen

(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

St. Valentine, the Christian priest beheaded

by Roman soldiers on 14 February 273 for continuing to wed couples despite a marriage ban, has given the world a day to celebrate love with cards, chocolates, and flowers, and us at Where a good excuse to write about our favorite places for romance in Berlin (p. 10).

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until April, 30th 2016.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

BURN AFTER READING The international history of espionage from the spies mentioned in the bible to the whistleblowers and big data in the present, shown in 14 thematic areas with more than 350 exhibits in 32.000 sq ft space.

SPY MUSEUM BERLIN POTSDAMER PLATZ ENTRANCE: LEIPZIGER PLATZ 9 OPEN DAILY 10AM — 8PM

spymuseumberlin.com CUT OUT

GET A FREE SPY POSTCARD* * Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until April, 30th 2016.

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HOT

DATES February in Berlin is packed with fabulous events, from high-tech festivals and operettas to performances on ice.

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Prepare for pure entertainment! The legendary ice-skating show Holiday On Ice is back at Tempodrom with an encore of the 2014 spectacle, Passion, a fiery dance and acrobatic extravaganza accompanied by the “swop� (swing and pop) trio Vintage Vegas. www.tempodrom.de

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DA XIANG GUO  TEMPLE OF LIGHTS FRIDAY

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Experience a virtual visit to one of the oldest monasteries in China and explore the world of Buddhism with DaXiangGuo. Described as pulsating and poetic, the show, which marks its first visit to Germany, features monks from the Temple of Lights, renowned in China for their mesmerizing skills in music, drumming, and martial arts. www.tempodrom.de

TRANSMEDIALE FESTIVAL

3

FROM WEDNESDAY

Attention, all artists and media art professionals! The annual five-day Transmediale festival, held at Haus der Kulturen der Welt, draws new connections between art, culture, and technology, and encourages us to think about the media-shaped society we live in. The program includes an exhibition, live performances, films, and discussions, as well as workshops on technology-related issues. www.transmediale.de

10 WEDNESDAY

FROZEN PLANET

Take a journey to the polar extremes of our planet with Eisige Welten – Live In Concert, which brings together the acclaimed BBC production Frozen Planet and an 80-piece orchestra, which performs a live soundtrack to the film. More than six years in the making, the documentary features stunning scenes from Antarctica and the Arctic Circle and stars such cold-world critters as playful penguins, majestic orcas, and mystical grey owls – as well as narration by Sir David Attenborough. www.mercedes-benz-arena.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

FEBRUARY

SUNDAY

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What's more romantic than a gondola ride? The famous barcarolle Belle Nuit d'Amour, opening Offenbach's opéra fantastique The Tales of Hoffmann, makes the perfect prelude to a night of love. Catch it at the Komische Oper, followed by the jazzier chamber concert My Funny Valentine!, with a brass quintet performing love-themed works by Maurer, Dvořák, Offenbach, Elgar, Kálmán, Joplin, and Rogers. www.komische-oper-berlin.de

MASSIVE ATTACK

17 WEDNESDAY

Along with Portishead and Morcheeba, Massive Attack is one of the superstars of the trip-hop genre. The English ensemble's smashing 1998 album, Mezzanine, won over many fans with its distorted guitar crescendos, prominent bass lines, and overall pall of darkness.

Catch Robert “3D” Del Naja and Grant “Daddy G” Marshall as they bring their distinct sounds back to Germany – if you're lucky enough to nab tickets. www.tempodrom.de

CARNIVAL

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FROM THURSDAY

The 40 days of Lent leading up to Easter marks a time of feasting and partying for cultures around the globe. Even though the capital is far removed from the Rhineland, the German heart of Fasching tradition, Berliners can still don a costume and chow down on some traditional cuisine from the Cologne region in such traditional Rhenish pubs as Ständige Vertretung (Schiffbauer Damm 8).

Walk on the wild side at Berlin’s famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park.

Watch the six-day Sechstagerennen track cycling races come to a thrilling finale.

Hear the soaring voices of the Celtic Woman ensemble singing at Friedrichstadt-Palast.

Join the feast at the Street Food Thursday event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun.

Watch top snooker players compete at Tempodrom in the 2016 German Masters.

Weekends are for brunching. Try the lavish spread at Anna Blume (Kollwitzstr. 83).

The Libertines are back! The reunited Brit rockers play live at Columbiahalle.

Aussie indie band Tame Impala promises a raucous concert at Columbiahalle tonight.

See experimental electronic music legends Tortoise live at the legendary Berghain club.

Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at the Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears!"

Visit Chamäleon Varieté to see the bawdy acrobatics of the Wunderkammer show.

Blue, bald, and legendary: See the Blue Man Group show at the Bluemax Theater.

Catch the infectious rhythm of the Night of the Dance show at Tempodrom.

Happy Valentine's Day! Pamper yourself with a sauna and massage at Liquidrom.

Catch a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, one of few theaters to play movies in English.

Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm.

1990s trip-hop legends Massive Attack deliver a massive show at Tempodrom.

Picasso fans won't want to miss his masterful paintings at Museum Berggruen.

Kick off the weekend at Becketts Kopf, Prenzlauer Berg's best cocktail bar.

Tchaikovsky's legendary ballet Swan Lake comes to life at the Deutsche Oper.

For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must.

Take a trip to Dahlem's Botanical Garden to warm up in greenhouses of tropical plants.

Discover the groundbreaking photos of artist Cindy Sherman at me Collectors Room.

Mark the 100th birthday of Ol' Blue Eyes at the Sinatra & Friends show at Admiralspalast.

Warm up with coffee and Apfelstrudel at the historic, elegant Café Einstein Stammhaus.

Enjoy a Friday night out at Kreuzberg's happening Schwarze Traube cocktail bar.

Watch the thrilling motorbike stunts of Night of the Jumps at Mercedes-Benz Arena.

Be wowed by The Wyld, a futuristic Las Vegas-style show at Friedrichstadt-Palast.

Hear the Zurich Chamber Orchestra play beautiful Mozart pieces at the Konzerthaus.

See listings for addresses and more info.

HOLIDAY ON ICE: COURTESY OF HOLIDAY ON ICE, STAGE ENTERTAINMENT; DA XIANG GUO: COURTESY OF GÖTTLICHER BERLIN; TRANSMEDIALE FESTIVAL: FACE CAGES BY ZACH BLAS, COURTESY OF TRANSMEDIALE, © CHRISTOPHER O'LEARY; EISIGE WELTEN: PHOTO BY CHADDEN HUNTER; LES CONTES D'HOFFMANN, PHOTO BY MONIKA RITTERSHAUS, COURTESY OF KOMISCHE OPER BERLIN; MASSIVE ATTACK: COURTESY OF FACTORY 92; CARNIVAL: © ISTOCK PHOTOS.

MY FUNNY VALENTINE!

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WHERE NOW | VALENTINE’S DAY

Whether you’re happily single or committedly married – or anywhere in between – this is the perfect month to discover Berlin’s love stories, romantic hideaways, and tearjerker operas.

With Valentine’s Day on the horizon, die-hard romantics Solveig Steinhardt and Hilda Hoy set out to explore the many love-steeped sides of the city.

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CITY VIEW: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; PHILHARMONIE: © HAENEL, COURTESY OF PHILHARMONIE; VABALI: COURTESY OF VABALI; CUPCAKE: COURTESY OF CUPCAKE BERLIN. NEXT PAGE: BRASSERIE DESBROSSES: PHOTO BY FRANK PETERS; DOG: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; PORTRAIT OF LOUISE OF MECKLENBURG STRELITZ (JOSEF MARIA GRASSI) AND FRIEDRICH WILHELM III UND SEINE FAMILIE BY HEINRICH ANTON DÄHLING (1806): WIKIMEDIA COMMONS.

“If music be the food of love, play on,” wrote Shakespeare in the opening lines of his romantic comedy Twelfth Night. This month, there’s ample opportunity to indulge in some love-themed listening. On 9 Feb., famed Berlin Philharmonic conductor Sir Simon Rattle will put down the baton to make a rare appearance on the piano to accompany his wife, mezzo-soprano Magdalena Kožená. The husband-wife chamber music concert will tug at the heartstrings with pieces by Strauss, Brahms, and Dvořák. (9 Feb. at 8pm, www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de) Best get the Kleenex ready before going to see La Traviata at the Deutsche Oper. Lovelorn romantics will love Giuseppe Verdi‘s melodramatic opera story of the doomed courtesan Violetta and her one true love, Alfredo, performed in its original Italian with both German and English surtitles. (21 Feb. at 6pm and 27 Feb. at 7:30pm, www.deutscheoperberlin.de)

Berlin is simply too monumental and spread out to fit the classic definition of “romantic,” but if you know where to go, you will find it is packed with love nests big and small. At Vabali spa (Seydlitzstr.

6, www.vabali.de), for example, couples forget about the stress of daily Western life to escape into a Balinese massage or Turkish sauna. For more heat, book a table by the fireplace at Café am Neuen See (www.cafeamneuensee.de), serving German specialties right in the middle of the Tiergarten park, but make sure you’re done before twilight so you don’t miss the lighting of the 90 lamp posts from cities all over Europe at the nearby open-air gas lantern museum. Come night, there is no better activity for insomniac lovers than to hold hands while watching a heart-stopping drama, and the Lichtblick Kino (Kastanienallee 77, www.lichtblick-kino.org) has been catering to this very category for years with their screening of Casablanca every Saturday at midnight.

Your sweet-toothed sweetheart will love the chocolate café at Fassbender & Rausch (Charlottenstr. 60, www. fassbender-rausch.de), a renowned chocolatier on pretty Gendarmenmarkt square. Downstairs, house-made pralines are sold at the world’s longest chocolate counter, while the chocolate café upstairs is an elegant spot to try dainty mini tortes, molten hot chocolate, or chocolate fondue for two.

Cuddle up with something indulgent at Princess Cheesecake (Tucholskystr. 37, www.princess-cheesecake. de), a Mitte patisserie and café that specializes in all sorts of delicious renditions of creamy cheesecake, from chocolate-based to fruity. For a romantic picnic or a sweet gift, pick up a few adorable cakes at Cupcake Berlin (Krossener Str. 12, www.cupcakeberlin.de), the city’s original cupcake bakery since 2007 and still the best. w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 11

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WHERE NOW | VALENTINE’S DAY

“Liebe geht durch den Magen,” the Germans like to say – “Love goes through the stomach.” And who wouldn’t agree that sharing a fantastic meal with a special someone paves the way for love?

To indulge in the most notorious gastronomic aphrodisiac of all, head to Berlin’s famous oyster counter, located on the gourmet level of luxury department store KaDeWe (Tauentzienstr. 21-24, www.kadewe.de). Here, mollusk lovers can indulge in a platter or two of the deluxe bivalves, paired with flutes of premium champagne.

The decadence is kicked up a notch at Brasserie Desbrosses. Every Sunday, the French restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton (Potsdamer Platz 3, www.ritzcarlton. com) hosts a brunch that pulls out all the gourmet (and aphrodisiac) stops. Take your loved one and feast on lobster, roast beef, fresh crêpes, dainty French pastries, and unlimited glasses of bubbly.

If a full-bodied red is more your idea of romance, sample some of Italy’s most intoxicating varietals at Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle (Auguststr. 36, www. alcontadino.eu), a popular wine bar and restaurant in Mitte, or venture to the heart of elegant Charlottenburg for a visit to Enoiteca Il Calice (WalterBenjamin-Platz 4, www.enoiteca-il-calice.de), whose sommeliers will help you pair the perfect glass (or bottle) with any of a number of authentic Italian dishes.

Forget the classic diamond ring. Give your loved one the gift of you – in miniature. Wear your best outfit and make an appointment with the FigurenWerk atelier (www.figurenwerk.de), who will print a 3D, photorealistic figurine of miniature “you” that your significant other can gaze upon in your absence.

Who says your loved one has to be human? Sometimes dogs are less complicated companions than our fellow Homo sapiens. To thank your four-legged friend this Valentine’s Day, sophisticated canine concept store Herr & Hund (Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 16) stocks everything from trendy coats to luxury toys and leashes.

If it’s not love but the end thereof that you’re celebrating, there’s no better gift – for yourself or your former paramour – than a pair of Stance breakup socks (www.stance.com), which profess joy for singlehood with slogans such as “not me,” “2 bad 4 you,” “buh bye,” and “be my ex.”

Though the German capital may not have the romantic status of Paris, Berlin nonetheless has its own share of love legends, the most famous being that of Frederick William III, ruler of Prussia from 1797–1840, and his beloved wife and queen, Louise. The two met when Louise was only 17, and the then-prince was so charmed by her beautiful blue eyes that he decided on the spot to marry her. Their marriage was a happy one, and the couple reputedly enjoyed singing and reading together. Queen Louise was as beloved by her subjects as she was by her husband, and after her sudden death in her husband’s arms at the age of 34, she left behind a legacy as one of the most idealized and loved women in Prussian history. To honor her memory, King Frederick established the Order of Louise, a female counterpart to the Iron Cross.

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WHERE NOW | JEWELRY

ALL THAT GLITTERS

M

In search of shiny new adornments, Annabelle Mallia makes the rounds at her cherished jewelry stores.

arilyn Monroe’s famous rendition of Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend in the 1953 film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes has inspired more than a few fellows to rush out and buy a rock for their beloved. Whether it’s diamonds, rubies, or amber you covet, Berlin’s jewelers never fail to sparkle on Valentine’s Day. Here are four of our favorite purveyors of precious gems and metals.

When it comes to jewelry, there’s nothing like tradition, and Rheinfrank Antique & Vintage Jewellery (Linienstr. 44, www. antique-jewellery.de) has arguably the largest and most diverse range of original antique trinkets in Berlin. Some of the pieces date back to 1750, and the selection covers the great epochs of yesteryear right up until the 1950s. Browse the showcases for Victorian-style lockets, French art deco diamond rings, Italian millefiori brooches, enamel butterfly clips from 1920s England, and gold-plated cufflinks from 1930s Japan.

The size of a ring or the length of a chain can be adjusted on site to fit its new owner.

Or check out Wagner Preziosen (Mommsenstr. 4, www.wagner-preziosen.

de), carrying both unique pre-loved treasures and new designs. Antique highlights include an art deco dress set

by Asprey of London, a Fabergé pin from czarist St. Petersburg, and selected pieces from Cartier and Tiffany. The store also has its own collection, combining classical jewelry with a diverse range of materials.

Another highlight is the sphere ring, made of gold with an engraved sun beneath a cabochon to convey different types of radiance depending on the angle from which it is viewed.

For handmade elegance, head to Goldberg Schmuck in Mitte (Chausseestr. 116, www.jewelryberlin.com), the atelier and gallery of Tatjana Goldberg. Growing up in East Germany, Goldberg spent her childhood fantasizing about the finer things in life, and it was only after the country’s reunification that she was able to make her dreams reality by utilizing her talent to manufacture jewelry. Her creations have a contemporary style and draw upon

very clear, geometric forms, like a pendant with three pearls in a pod, or black onyx earrings that embed the precious stone in golden spiral cones.

If it’s pure luxury you’re after, head to Wempe (Kurfürstendamm 215, www. wempe.de), one of Germany’s oldest familyowned companies, with several locations around Berlin, including a Kurfürstendamm boutique that features a particularly impressive Rolex collection. Originally a small watchmaker’s workshop, Wempe was founded in 1878, and became an international brand for timepieces and jewelry, withstanding the test of time and the devastation of two world wars. The Glashütte wristwatch line, manufactured in Wempe’s own research institute, is showcased alongside big labels such as Cartier or Chopard, but the real highlight for women is the BY KIM line by KimEva Wempe, great-granddaughter of the founder, who designed the popular Helioro ring, made of nine different strands of rose gold and diamonds wrapping around your finger with no beginning and no end.

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If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 29 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of abc-Job#: 533855 · Kunde: Wempe · Motiv: Tax Free Berlin · Format: 206 x 276 + 3 mm · Farbe: CMYB

classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Kurfürstendamm 215, T +49.(0)30.882 68 78, Friedrichstraße 82, T +49.(0)30.20 39 99 20 and Rolex Boutique, Kurfürstendamm 184, T +49.(0)30.55 66 90 10 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK BEIJING WEMPE.COM

We accept all credit cards.

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WHERE NOW | MOVIE THEATERS

luxury heights with reclining, extra-wide leather seats.

Right in the heart of Mitte is the Hackesche Höfe Kino (Rosenthaler Str. 40–41, www.hoefekino.de), which boasts two special features: the first is its location in the historic sprawling courtyard complex of a preserved 1906 building – arrive early so you can take a look around. And second, German movies are sometimes screened here with English subtitles, giving you a chance to experience local film culture. For a more neighborhood-y feel, several of the cinemas run by the Yorck group (www.yorck.de) also specialize in non-dubbed movies. These include Kino Babylon in Kreuzberg (Dresdener Str. 126) and Kino Rollberg (Rollbergstr.

70) a little further south in Neukölln, which screens both blockbusters as well as indie films.

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inking into a plush seat, a bag of buttery popcorn balancing in your lap, to stare up a giant screen and be thoroughly entertained for two hours is one of life’s enduring pleasures.

Luckily for Berliners, the movie theater, or Kino, scene here is large and diverse, ranging from small, independent arthouse theaters to big megaplexes featuring the latest in sound technology and IMAX pizzazz. Unfortunately, most are inaccessible to non-German speakers, because when English-language films are screened, they’re all dubbed into German. A number of Kinos, however, have taken it upon themselves to cater to Englishspeaking film fans. Check out the programs of the following theaters, and look for movies marked “OV” (original version) or “OmU” (original with subtitles).

The big daddy of English-language movie theaters is undoubtedly the CineStar multiplex in Potsdamer Platz’s Sony Center (Potsdamer Str. 4, www.cinestar.de). With eight different theaters, this is the place to go for the widest selection of the latest Hollywood blockbusters. A bit further West, next to bustling Breitscheidplatz, is another option: Zoo Palast (Hardenbergstr. 29A, www.zoopalast-berlin.de), which was recently renovated to new,

POPCORN IMAGE © ISTOCK

Catching a film is a fun activity for all ages. Hilda Hoy rounded up the best cinema destinations for watching English-language movies in Berlin.

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Oh L'Amour!

WHERE NOW | ROMANCE

Claudia Koksch adds some glitter and lace to her wardrobe for that hint of romance.

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1. Passionata, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 2. By Marlene Birger, www.bymarlenebirger.com. 3. Swarovski Boutique, Friedrichstr. 129. 4.

Navyboot, Kurfürstendamm 40/41. 5. Passionata, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 6. Filippa K, Kurfürstendamm 29. 7. Jette - Moments of Love, Juwelier CHRIST im KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. 8. Closed, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Shan Rahimkhan

Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa

Flaconi

A Cut Above The Rest The only thing worse than a bad hair day is a bad hair day while on vacation. But never fear: These hair-pampering stops will keep you looking your best while discovering the town.

By age 18, hair wunderkind Udo Walz was already popular among Germany’s trendseekers for his updos. In 1986, Walz went on to open his flagship Ku’damm store, Udo Walz (Kurfürstendamm 29, www.udo-walz.com), and has since styled the locks of superstars including Naomi Campbell, Gwyneth Paltrow, and even Germany’s own Angela Merkel. With another seven salons citywide and TV performances to boot, the Udo Walz brand has become a Berlin institution. Book yourself in for a trim or even a complete makeover, and prepare to

be pampered.

Another coiffeur renowned for his roster of celebrity clients is Shan Rahimkhan (Kurfürstendamm 195, www. shanrahimkhan.com). Book the full deluxe treatment or pop by the recently opened Shan’s True Beauty salon on the ground floor of the Ku'damm space for a spontaneous wash and blow-dry from a menu of five different looks, plus make-up and nails to go.

Fans of British celebrity hairdresser Vidal Sassoon (Schlüterstr. 38, www.sassoon. com) will be pleased to know they can find a salon right here in Berlin. Known as "the man who styled the Sixties," Sassoon transformed the tight updos of the time into geometric, Bauhaus-inspired bobs that accentuate an individual’s best features.

Thanks to him, women were able to loosen up their hair and suddenly run their fingers through their manes. Although Sassoon died in 2012, his legacy lives on in his salons and schools found around the globe.

If you're looking for an indulgent treatment with a touch of Eastern philosophy, head to Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa (Kurfürstendamm 26a, www.aveda.de). After suffering from burnout, Austrian-born founder and worldclass stylist Horst Rechelbacher spent some time in India, where he got the idea for a styling concept that integrates the ancient healing art of Ayurveda, which aims to be as good to the body as the world we live in. Aveda is also known for its excellent range of botanical hair and skin products, such as the bestselling Aveda Pure Abundance hair tonic, as well as a comprehensive range of body treatments.

Or check out the Flaconi Neo salon (Leipziger Str. 36), using its own popular line of hair products to style heads a block away from Friedrichstraße.

IMAGE INSET, LEFT: © ISTOCK PHOTOS.

Ready for a new look, Annabelle Mallia upped the ante and sought out the best coiffeurs in town.

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image inset, left: © istock photos.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Department stores & malls Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr.

20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50.

T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 56-57.

Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 13 March, 22 May, 4 September, 16 October, 6 November, 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

Shop 'Til You Konk “Shop local” has been a growing consumer mantra in recent years, refering to everything from organic, farm-fresh produce to local wine, cheese, and handicrafts. When it comes to Berlin style, there’s no better place to discover homegrown designs than at Konk, a small boutique in the heart of Mitte’s fashion district that is passionately dedicated to supporting area designers of fashion, jewelry, and accessories. Owner Edda Mann is passionate about seeking out new talents, a mission that results in a regularly rotating selection of stock, although several designers have become Konk staples: Isabell de Hillerin creates understated yet elegant womenswear influenced by her native Romania, while ANNTIAN is known for bold and edgy tunics and trousers as well as handmade fabric prints. Stay warm with luxuriously soft cashmere headbands by Casimier, or take home pretty souvenirs like handcrafted brass earrings by Elizabeth Leflar and striking “lace” jewelry from the InLace label, crafted out of metal chains and bright thread.

Kleine Hamburger Str. 15. T: 030 28097839. www.konk-berlin.de

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fashion Basler

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe)

Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and

The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality.

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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MCM With the aim of always creating modern and progressive ideas, MCM has redefined luxury and revolutionized classic design with its modern aesthetics. Solid German craftsmanship combined with pioneering materials means their lines are as waterresistant and durable as they are luxurious.

Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030 8811104 www.mcmworldwide.com

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bagatt Milano

UNIQLO

Epitomizing the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known, bagatt Milano stands for fine Italian craftsmanship, applying these high quality standards into its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. From contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear to elegant heels, the bagatt Milano store is a shoe-lover’s paradise.

Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 25759777 bagattberlino@gmail.com

High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters.

Tauentzienstr. 7B/C. T: 030 29028260 www.uniqlo.com/de

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Shop online: www.uniqlo.com/de

uniqlo flagShip Store tauentzienstr. 7 b/c uniqlo leipZiger platZ leipziger platz 16

Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht.

11.01.2016, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

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COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M HALLHUBER Hollister HUGO BOSS

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SHOPPING feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

BCBGMAXAZRIA The global label makes everything from evening gowns to everyday apparel, all with an eye for what makes a woman look and feel good. www.bcbg.com. Schlüterstr. 39. T: 030.88624770.

S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com.

Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Bimba y Lola Founded by two sisters, the Spanish label specializes in fashion and accessories – all designed by a team in their 20s – that combine modern flair with Spanish playfulness. www.bimbaylola.com. Weinmeisterstr. 9b.

T: 030.28096770. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20644265. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS

Evelin Brandt

The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25.

T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49.

T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Evelin Brandt offers an urban, feminine look with a skilful mix of elegance, casualness and extravagance. The label’s distinctive designs highlight a woman’s individuality and personal charisma. Whether in beautiful jackets, flowing dresses, or accessories, customers will be strikingly well dressed. www.evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr.

153a. T: 030.2044444. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Cinque

G-Star RAW

Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

For more than 20 years, Dutch label G-Star RAW has been producing urban clothing inspired by military apparel made with raw denim. On the Ku’damm since 2013, the flagship store responds to the label’s philosophy, combining their original designs and materials with friendly expert service. www.g-star.com. Kurfürstendamm 16.

T: 030.88001973. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Darklands Relocating to a new space every few seasons, Darklands is a nomadic, multi-branded men’s fashion store. It stocks clothing by leaders in German avant-garde design with a strong preference for the darker end of the color spectrum. It’s hard to find, so see website for instructions. www.darklandsberlin.com. Heidestr.

46–52, Building 7. S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Juicy Couture The LA label most famous for its velour track suits (often with the logo emblazoned across the derrière) is available at the Berlin shopping mecca of KaDeWe. www.juicycouture.com. Tauentzienstr.

21–24. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ESCADA

Liu Jo

Cool glamour, sensual femininity, and modern elegance are the hallmarks of the ESCADA brand, offering women not only a glamorous couture line but also must-have everyday fashion, as well as a range of accessories such as shoes, bags, jewelry, and fragrances. www.escada.com. See website for more locations. Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Since 1995, this major Italian fashion company has been aiming to bring out every woman’s natural beauty with elegance and quality. Contemporary and glamorous, practical yet professional, Liu Jo’s collection ranges from clothing to shoes to beachwear, including selections for men and children. www.liujo.com. Mall of Berlin.

T: 030.20624744. U Mohrenstraße. E3

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING

Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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SHOPPING Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com.

Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marc O’Polo For nearly five decades, Marc O’Polo has stayed true to its philosophy of authenticity, creating casual, wearable lifestyle clothing with an upscale feel. From womenswear and menswear to children’s clothing and home accessories, a visit to a Marc O’Polo boutique has plenty in store. www.marc-o-polo.de. Kurfürstendamm 220 (check website for other locations).

T: 030.88923901.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Uhlandstraße. C4

One Green Elephant This Japanese, European-designed brand brings innovative fashion for women and men. Designed as an ever-lasting go-to brand, they create highquality garments that are affordable and trendy. www.onegreenelephant.com. Mall of Berlin.

Leipziger Platz 12. T: 030.20216742.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte.

E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and

The Natural Way According to the principles of anthroposophy, the body has a remarkable ability to heal itself. The Weleda brand of natural cosmetics has fully embraced this spiritual concept by creating skin and healthcare products that support our innate restorative characteristics. All of the organic ingredients are grown in the Weleda biodynamic gardens, where balanced soils and non-chemical fertilizers provide the purest plants, flowers, and fruits that provide the basis for hair and skin products and over-the-counter holistic remedies. If you're looking to establish your personal harmony with the natural world around you, the Weleda store is a good place to start. Choose from almond moisturizers, wild rose lotions, calendula toothpastes, and the brand's famous pregnancy oil (prized for its ability to reduce stretch marks), all displayed on shelves supported by birch trunks, providing a virtual forest in which to shop.

Brunnenstr. 5. www.weleda.de international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Shoes & Accessories AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics.

Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com.

Kurfürstendamm 50.

T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels.

Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Buffalo Boots One of the most famous shoe brands in Europe. www.buffalo-shop.de. See website for more locations. Kantstr. 31. S Savignyplatz. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 46. U Weinmeisterstraße. E2

Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36.

T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500.

U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186.

T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Jewelry & Watches Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com.

Friedrichstr. 176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 45.

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UP TO 70% OFF

*

MORE THAN 500 TOP BRANDS U

SCHLESISCHES TOR

* Compared to the manufacturer’s suggested retail price. www.zalando-outlet.de

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SHOPPING T: 030.8804030.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com.

Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980.

U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24.

T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Juwelier LorenZ A family business since 1874, one of Berlin's most prestigious watchmakers and jewelers showcases Rolex, Cartier, Raymond, and Tudor. www.juwelierlorenz.de. Rheinstr. 59. T: 030.8512020. U FriedrichWilhelm-Platz. Off Map

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße.

C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920.

U Französische Straße. E3

Classic Meets Urban When Marco Götz founded fashion label Drykorn back in 1996, he took over an old textile factory in the southern German town of Würzburg, where he produced classic trousers for the first few years. His immediate success selling the pants to boutiques country-wide led him to expand his collection to other women's items, and Drykorn now carries anything from knitwear, skirts, and dresses to jackets and coats. Made for metropolitan and progressive women who are also down to earth, Drykorn items are well-made classics that never get boring, each containing an original element.

Neue Schönhauser Str. 6. 030 28045666. www.drykorn.com

Concept Stores Departmentstore Quartier 206 This multi-brand store inside the Quartier 206 luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers. www.dsq206.com. Friedrichstr. 71.

T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3

Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like

Shopping Essentials sizing GUIDE

shoes UK

US

clothes Euro

UK

women 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

Xs s m l

6 8 10 12 14 16

Massimo Dutti Friedrichstr. 83 Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

men (chest) 41 42 43 45 46 47

s m l

34 36 38 40 42 44

Children 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

women 36 37 38 39 41 42

men 7 8 9 10 11 12

US

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

Children 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

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status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844.

U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

FOOD & Gourmet

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA at Alexanderplatz OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Fassbender & Rausch Berlin’s undisputed temple of confections features the world's longest chocolate counter and eyepopping sculptures, such as a model Reichstag made from 300kg (660lb) of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60.

T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

Marheineke Markthalle One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors.

Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat 8am-6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Markthalle Neun One of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, the 1891 building has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market (Fri–Sat 10am–6pm). See website for other foodie events, such as the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43 T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

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Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de.

Französische Str. 24. T: 030.20095080.

U Französische Straße. E3

Home Décor Jens Richard Fans of beautiful design are sure to find something for they need for home at Jens Richard, an emporium of porcelain, tableware, and jewelry carefully sourced from renowned producers. www.jensrichard.de. Kurfürstendamm 63.

T: 030.75543716. U Adenauerplatz. B4

KPM Berlin Once upon a time, a king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur was born. KPM Berlin still makes exquisite tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour and shop for beautiful porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com.

Wegelystr. 1. T: 030.390090. S Tiergarten. C3

MEISSEN Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, and figurines, all identified by the signature crossed swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße.

E3; Kurfürstendamm 21. T: 030.88625085.

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

The Stasi prison in Hohenschönhausen

Behind Bars Given Berlin’s tumultuous past, it’s no surprise that the capital is home to some of the most infamous prisons in history.

Some of these institutions have reopened to the public as memorials, giving locals and visitors a chance to commemorate the victims of Nazi and East German terror.

Within walking distance from S-Bahn Beusselstraße is the Plötzensee Prison (www. gedenkstaette-ploetzensee.de), built in 1879 and originally intended for convicted murderers. During the Weimar Republic, the penitentiary witnessed 36 executions, a number that increased substantially during the Nazi period, with more than 2800 prisoners put to death by the SS. Many of the victims – who included German, Czechoslovak, Polish, and French nationals – were members of resistance organizations opposing the Nazis. Today, the execution shed serves as a memorial to those victims.

The SA prison at Papestraße (www. gedenkort-papestrasse.de), one of the earliest Nazi concentration camps, is located in a

railway utility building hardly a stone’s throw from today's Südkreuz station. In operation from March to December 1933, the jail was used by the Sturmabteilung to interrogate and torture upwards of 500 political opponents and Jews. The building was not damaged during WWII, and the cells are in the same condition as they were during those 10 months. Today, a permanent exhibition commemorates the Nazi regime’s first victims.

During the Cold War, thousands of individuals deemed as political opponents, as well as citizens who attempted to flee the GDR, were interned at the Stasi Prison in Hohenschönhausen (en.stiftung-hsh.de). In the early years especially, the prison’s staff conducted both physical and psychological torture and, indeed, many of the former inmates who now lead the tours recount experiences of sleep deprivation and solitary confinement. As the prison was located within a restricted military zone and thus excluded from maps, its existence was discovered only after German reunification.

Southwest of Berlin, in Potsdam, the KGB set up a prison after the end of WWII to imprison Germans suspected of spying for the Allies, as well as Soviet soldiers accused of desertion or collaboration. Incarceration in the KGB Prison (www.gedenkstaetteleistikowstrasse.de) was violently interrogative, and often the fate of the prisoners ended with being sent to gulag labor camps in the Soviet Union.

© istock photos

Serene Tseng visits prisons in and around Berlin to gain a deeper understanding of German history.

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Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grâce in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Open daily 10am–6pm (to 5pm Fri). Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under6s free. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr.

28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals

that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe

glienicker Park, Kreatzplan, Wikimedia commons.

© istock photos

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An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023.

U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style

A Classic English Garden It's an important year for Glienicke Park: 2016 marks both the bicentennial anniversary of the park itself and the 150th anniversary of the passing of its architect, Peter Joseph Lenné.

One of the most beautifully lush English gardens in Berlin and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1990, Glienicke Park is bordered on two sides by the Havel River and dotted with benches and marble statues within. A classic example of 19th-century Prussian garden culture, with brilliant flowerbeds arranged in a characteristic circular pattern, the park is famous for its lion fountain and makes for a unique sensory experience, even in the depths of winter.

Königstr. 36. T: 030.80586750. www.spsg.de. www.wheretraveler.com 33

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SIGHTSEEING

Big-Screen Berlin A city with as much history as Berlin makes the perfect backdrop for memorable movies. From celluloid classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, these must-see German and English films – from oldest to newest – all star the German capital.

Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive

neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column)

ONE, TWO, THREE (1961) Billy Wilder’s comedy almost didn’t get completed. When star James Cagney and crew showed up to shoot scenes at the Brandenburg Gate, they found the East Germans had erected a little nuisance of a wall overnight. The director managed to get some shots in, but the landmark still had to be reconstructed at a film studio in Munich in order for filming to wrap.

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987) The Victory Column and Potsdamer Platz play starring roles in Wim Wenders’ romantic fantasy as much as does any of the cast, which include Bruno Ganz, Peter Falk, and even Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds.

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) In just an hour and twenty minutes, Franke Potente’s titular character chews a lot of Berlin scenery, including the Französische Straße U-Bahn station, Gendarmenmarkt, Unter den Linden, and the German History Museum.

UNKNOWN (2011) Liam Neeson loses more than his room key when he checks into the landmark Hotel Adlon. The thriller also sees the action star racing across Friedrichstraße and visiting the Oberbaumbrücke, the bridge dividing Friedrichshain from Kreuzberg.

THE HUNGER GAMES: MOCKINGJAY — PART 2 (2015) The airport-turned-public-park of Tempelhof played the role of District 2 in the last edition of the popular tale of teen rebel Katniss Everdeen (Jennifer Lawrence).

The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1.

T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES

point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Stasi Prison

MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi Asisi’s Wall Panorama (secret police) and brought to this custody Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while aim was to show how the population came to terms the relatively more humane cells are on the with the situation, and the result gives upper floors, next to a seemingly onlookers a glimpse of East German life. never-ending corridor lined with Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. interrogation rooms. Tours in www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205.

English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at T: 0341.3555340.

2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am U Kochstraße. E3/E4 Berlin is one of three fullyand 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. fledged city states of en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66.

Berlin Wall Documentation Germany, the other two T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Center being Hamburg MUST SEE Walk along one of the Allee, then Tram M5 to and Bremen.

Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute few surviving stretches of the Berlin walk. Off Map Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then Topographie des Terrors delve into its storied history at the documentation MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters center. Documents and original radio broadcasts of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important from both East and West chronicle one of offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; central institutions of the SS and Third Reich documentation center: police and the crimes they committed throughout Tue–Sun 10am–6pm.

Europe. A preserved segment of the Berlin Wall Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. runs along exhibition grounds. Daily 10am–8pm.

Bernauer Str. 111. T: 030.467986666.

Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

U Bernauer Straße. E2 T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße, S+U Potsdamer Checkpoint Charlie Platz. E4 During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced Until 1990, the departure hall of the each other on this spot. Today, the crossing Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing

© THINKSTOCK PHOTOS

Potsdamer Platz

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SIGHTSEEING Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3.

S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Tempelhof Airport Park

By Invitation Only It's said that if you want to understand a city, you must get to know the locals. If you're too shy to make friends with random strangers on the street, your second-best bet is to book an urban living tour. The Open Doors Berlin guides, for example, take you to the private homes of local residents for a friendly visit or a longer chat over a three-course dinner. While highlights include an ex-GDR apartment in Prenzlauer Berg, most residences – and their hosts – are ordinary residents who are happy to spend an afternoon chatting with visitors about their city. If it's the "Berlin scene" you're after, agency Berlinagenten offers tours to artists' homes and ateliers in Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg, and even Karl-Marx-Allee, introducing guests to the designers and photographers who define the city's trends. Who exactly you meet depends on the day and who’s at home, but a warm welcome is always guaranteed.

T: 0176 84018100. www.opendoorsberlin.de T: 0160 3872264. www.berlinagenten.com

for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun until 6pm.

Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €13/6.50, under-5s free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www. zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Kids & Families

Botanischer Garten

photo courtesy of berlinagenten

Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult.

Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com.

Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue

This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants.

Daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset.

Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org.

Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100.

S Botanischer Garten. Off Map

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online.

Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com.

Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites.

Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke. Off Map

Tours & GUIDED Walks Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs.

Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop.

From €300. www.berlinagenten.com.

Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required.

From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105.

T: 030.49910517.

Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com.

Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24047991.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030. www.wheretraveler.com 35

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

The Essence Of Familiar Things Solveig Steinhardt goes on an imaginary journey from the American deserts to the homes of East German citizens.

It takes a great photographer to transform ordinary scenes like, say, a gas station in the middle of nowhere or a motel room's interior into the essence of everyday life. New York photo artist Stephen Shore has spent the past four decades capturing both the wide landscapes and the small details of the rural United States. Swimming pools, empty spaces, roads, and highway signs, as well as TV sets and the interiors of shops and homes, are some of his favorite subjects, and his raw, descriptive narrative has influenced generations of artists.

Shore's aim has always been to create photos that feel like "seeing" rather than like art, which is why he rejected black-and-white photography in the 1970s to shoot only in color, then considered unartistic and vulgar, and went on to create still documentaries that feel like a background to life. From 6

February, the C/O Berlin gallery walks visitors through Shore's entire career, with 300 works that start from his endless road trips in the mid-1960s and culminate in the present-day Instagram and digital era.

Providing an interesting contrast to Shore's freedom-inspiring landscapes, the gallery also presents a retrospective of photographer Ulrich Wüst, who spent his career depicting the small daily absurdities of life in East Germany. Born in Magdeburg in 1949, Wüst has a detached and objective narrative, and his shots portray everything from everyday objects, GDR residents, desolated Berlin views, and East German landscapes (see opposite page), conveying an important testimony of the time, which has made him one of the most important East German photographers of the 1980s.

C/O Berlin, Hardenbergstraße 22.

T: 030. 28444160. www.co-berlin.org

Turn your trip to Charlottenburg into an excuse to visit Berlin's new "photography quarter," the nickname given to the streets to the west of Zoologischer Garten station since the 2014 arrival of C/O Berlin to the area. Just across from the quarter's centerpiece attraction lies the Museum of Photography (smb.museum), which is more a showcase for the the works of fashion lenser Helmut Newton, although it also presents a smaller selection of rotating exhibits. The photography-focused galleries on Kantstraße, such as Camera Work (www.camerawork.de, Kantstr. 149), are also worth a visit, while all passionate photographers should head to the Leica store (www.leica-store-berlin.com, Fasanenstr. 71) to try out the newest model of the legendary camera, as well as used and hard-to-find gear that will thrill serious shutterbugs.

top: stephen shore, courtesy of C/O Berlin; monica bellucci, © newton collection: courtesy of smb.museum.

Through The Lens

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Museums Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 16 May: The Struggle for Troy.

Restored in the 19th century by the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, the sculptures depicting the Trojan Wars are on display once again. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 21 Feb: Blind Glances – Seeing and Unseeing in Menzel celebrates the 200th year since Adolph Menzel’s birth, featuring his watercolors, lithographs, and drawings. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum.

Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs,and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 29 Feb: Moving Forward celebrates the 100th anniversary of the founding of Bauhaus with the construction of a new building.

Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14.

T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 7 Feb: Nothing new: Abstraction Still Pending. To 30 Mar: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the Land of Orpheus. The coins of the ancient region of Thrace, Greece, and European Turkey.

To 30 Apr: ONE GOD – Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile. Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from Antiquity until the Middle Ages. To 8 May: Holbein in Berlin – The Madonna and Masterworks.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

paintings. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9.

T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments.

Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9.

T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 28 Feb: Unification explores the challenges faced by the newly-unified Germany after the fall of the Wall. To 3 Apr: Art of the Holocaust – 100 Works from the Yad Vashem Memorial. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2.

T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 14 Mar: The Art of Beautiful Appearance is a homage to René Koch, Traviestar, Make-Up Artist, Lipstick Collector, and Charity

Activist. From 22 Jan: SuperQueeroes presents, for the first time in Europe, a collection of superheroes and comic book characters falling within the LGBTI spectrum.

Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr.

73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. From 26 Feb: NO COMPROMISES! Dedicated to NO! art artist Boris Lurie. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin. de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Daily 11am– 6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24.

T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett

MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am– 6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 28 Mar: I. Menzel commemorates the Berlin-based artist’s 200th birthday and his lasting legacy. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www. stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important

The photography of Ulrich Wüst, on display at C/O Berlin this month, depicts life in East Germany in the 1980s (see opposite page).

ulrich wüst, courtesy of C/O Berlin

Bröhan-Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 3 Apr: Turn of an Era. From the Berlin Secession to the November Group.

Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehanmuseum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color.

Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 13 Mar: Max Pechstein – Pioneer of the Modern Art. 100 works from the museum’s collection, including some rarely-shown www.wheretraveler.com 37

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Remembrance On Location While visually and emotionally evocative above the surface, a walk through the tall and overbearing steles of the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (p. 34) leads to the stairs of the information center housing a special exhibition beneath the undulating floor.

The presentation, which starts out with large portraits of persecuted children, elderly, men, and women, uses a mixture of statistics, quotations from memoirs, personal photographs and letters, readings of biographies, and names of the victims in an effort to deanonymize and honor the six million Jewish victims.

Cora-Berliner-Str. 1. www.stiftung-denkmal.de

highlights the beginnings of human creativity in the form of rock paintings. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices

vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860.

U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. €14/12. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once housed Berlin’s post office museum.

Robots welcome visitors, while iPads make perfect tour guides through the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. To 21 Feb: What Belongs Together Is Now Growing Together! explores

development of the postal and communication network in former East Germany after 1990. Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16.

T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3

Museum of Asian Art The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Route. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Museum of Musical Instruments

www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www. naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43.

T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Museum The Kennedys When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Berlin’s favorite US president. To 3 Apr: My Pony Macaroni features stories of the Kennedys’ zoo and anecdotes of US presidents with their pets. Tue– Sun 11am–7pm. €5/2.50. www.thekennedys. de. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent film-era cinema organ.

Neues Museum Open Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm.

A highlight of the Neues of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s €6/3 (under 18s free).

Museum is the top attraction. Examine a worldwww.sim.spk-berlin.de.

3300-year-old bust of famous Egyptian collection that Queen Nefertiti.

Tiergartenstr. 1.

T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer includes many important papyruses, Platz. D3 while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during Museum of Photography WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated museum reopened in 2009. To 28 Feb: Beards: from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic Between Nature and Razor explores the significance of collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 beards throughout history and Berliners’ fascination building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, with facial hair. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), whose lower two floors are occupied by the Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.

Helmut Newton Foundation. To 22 May: Helmut de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

Newton: Pages from the Glossies / Greg Gorman, Color S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 Works: A selection of Newton and Gorman’s fashion photography from magazine prints. Tue–Fri 10am– Pergamon Museum 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5.

One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20th-

© istock photos

example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 16 May: Art of Prehistoric Times

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Jackson Pollock (American, 1912—1956) Mural, 1943 (detail), Oil and casein on canvas, 242.9 x 603.9 cm Gift of Peggy Guggenheim, 1959.6 University of Iowa Museum of Art; Reproduced with the permission from The University Iowa Museum of Art © Pollock-Krasner Foundation/VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2015

Jackson Pollock’s Mural Energy Made Visible 25.11.—10.4. curated by dr. david anfam and organized by the university of iowa museum of art

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Unter den Linden 13/15, Berlin 10 am—8 pm, Mondays admission free; deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.com

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work.

Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

For The Timeless Love Of Beards

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle

From just casually glancing around the U-Bahn, it’s easy to tell that Berliners are quite fond of beards. Although whiskers are currently back in vogue, the look has enjoyed varying degrees of popularity through the ages. The exhibition Beards – Between Nature and Razor at the Neues Museum (p. 38) pays homage to the cultural significance of full-fledged facial hair and the diversity of beard-wearers, regardless of gender, from Queen Hatshepsut of Ancient Egypt to Austrian pop sensation Conchita Wurst. Visitors are encouraged to add a picture of their own beards to the exhibition. Until 28 Feb.

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr.

103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Spy Museum Berlin Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €18/14. Daily 10am-8pm. www.spymuseumberlin.com. Leipziger Platz 9.

S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Story of Berlin Almost 800 years of Berlin history arranged into 23 rooms, each describing a different theme or era and an atomic bunker for visitors to better understand the WWII air raid experience. An entertaining way to learn about the development of the city. Open daily 10am–8pm. €12/5. www.story-of-berlin.de. Kurfürstendamm 208.

T: 030.88720100. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Art galleries Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery

exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10.

T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Akademie der Künste Pariser Platz The Pariser Platz branch of Berlin’s art academy, housing an important exhibition space and an extensive archive. Open daily 11am–7pm (Free entry Tue 3-7pm). €6/4. www.adk.de. Pariser Platz 4.

T: 030.200571000. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 15 Feb: Max Beckmann and Berlin reveals the lasting artistic impact Berlin as a city had on artist Beckmann, even after he emigrated to the Netherlands. To 15 Feb: Ich kenne kein Weekend – The René Block Archives is dedicated to gallery owner Block’s influence and role in advancing art in Berlin. To 21 Mar: This is Us. Portrait photography of individuals and society. To 21 Mar: The Dialogic City.

One of four exhibitions put on by leading Berlin art institutions, revealing how the planning for the city comes to life. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www. berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr.

124-128. T: 030.78902600.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Hamburger Bahnhof CThe permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 10 Feb: Julian Rosefeldt. Manifesto is an installation of 13 concurrently-running films and monologues To 31 Jul: Neue Galerie: The Black Years. Works from the Neue Nationalgalerie created between 1933-1945, including works by Pablo Picasso and Käthe Kollwitz.

To 13 Mar: A Few Free Years features recently donated works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de.

Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee

Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles.

Russia has held parts of C/O Berlin the Pergamon’s collection Each show is complemented by MUST SEE Contemporary art and since the end of WWII, events – lectures, concerts, and photography has finally reopened despite a treaty to performances – for children and in the Amerika Haus, which housed return them. adults. The multi-sensory sculpture the American library during the Cold garden is one of the city’s finest and War era. From 6 Feb: Stephen Shore. worth a visit on its own. For an unusual Retrospective. From 6 Feb: Ulrich Wüst – Cityscapes yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed / Peripheries / Late Summer. From 6 Feb: Peter Puklus.

9-10:30am. To 7 Feb: Stefanie Hering – Porcelain Unsafe to Dance features the works of the experimental Design by Hering Berlin features the development, Hungarian photographer. From 6 Feb: Screen Memories production techniques, and creative processes is a three-stage series from photographer Verónica Hering uses. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5.

Losantos based on memories and the creation of them. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30.

Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org.

T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map Hardenbergstr. 22–24.

Helmut Newton Foundation T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard Dalí – The Exhibition in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his The permanent exhibit features more than

Brustportraits der kaiserlichen Familie, 1880. Chromolithografie. © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Museum Europäischer Kulturen / Ute Franz-Scarciglia

century archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. www.smb.museum.

Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 10 Apr: Jackson Pollock’s “Mural”: Energy Made Visible. Rarely on loan outside of University of Iowa’s Museum of Art, Pollock’s work is on display in Berlin after undergoing 18 months of cleaning in Los Angeles. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee

Facets of Life

CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. To 29 Feb: Women of the Secession II presents the female artists that drove the Berlin Secession art movement over a century ago. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermannvilla.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900.

S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 10 Apr: Cindy Sherman – Works from the Olbricht Collection. Sherman’s works explore cultural tropes and the struggle of the individual against a collective. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12/6. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20.

T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

A world of exhibitions

Sammlung Hoffmann An old sewing factory behind the Hackesche Höfe now contains Rolf and Erika Hoffmann’s private art collection. Erika herself shows visitors around her art-packed apartment on Saturday mornings, but you’ll need to book ahead. Guided tours Saturdays between 11am and 4pm. €10. www.sammlunghoffmann.de. Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Sophienstr. 21.

T: 030.28499120. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr.

70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Commercial Galleries Camera Work, until 27 Feb: Christian Tagliavini: Voyages Extraordinaires. Kantstr. 149. www. camerawork.de; Mianki Gallery, until 12 Mar: Katharina Schnitzler: 1000 Africans in Berlin. Kalckreuthstr. 15. www.mianki.com; Salongalerie „Die Möwe“, until 27 Feb: Sibylle Boden-Gerstner: A life's work. Auguststr. 50b. www.salongalerie-die-moewe.de; Galerie Friedmann-Hahn, until 27 Feb: Guido Sieber: Strange Adventures. Wielandstr. 14. www. galeriefriedmann-hahn.com; Galerie Georg

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

BRUSTPORTRAITS DER KAISERLICHEN FAMILIE, 1880. CHROMOLITHOGRAFIE. © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, MUSEUM EUROPÄISCHER KULTUREN / UTE FRANZ-SCARCIGLIA

nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

To 22 May: Helmut Newton: Pages from the Glossies / Greg Gorman: A selection of Newton and Gorman’s fashion photography from magazine prints.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmutnewton.de. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Wish Upon A Michelin Star Berlin now has more Michelin-starred restaurants than ever. Hilda Hoy sorted through the select 20 to narrow down the best options for every taste.

For many gourmands, the venerated Michelin Guide is the bible of restaurant ratings. The special few establishments awarded a much-coveted star are instantly launched into a new gourmet stratosphere. In the 2016 edition of the guide, five more Berlin restaurants were awarded one star each, which means the capital now has more Michelin-worthy restaurants than ever: 20 in total. While every one can be counted on to serve a delicious meal, each has its own culinary style, atmosphere, and personality that set it apart.

Traditionally, gourmet cuisine has conjured up images of opulence and luxury – with a correspondingly high price tag. If it’s utter extravagance you crave, Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer (Unter den Linden 77, www. lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de) and Fischers Fritz (Charlottenstr. 49, www.fischersfritzberlin.com) are the best candidates to fit this bill, with two Michelin stars each. The former, located in the Hotel Adlon Kempinski, boasts elegant dining

Nobelhart & Schmutzig

rooms overlooking the Brandenburg Gate.

The latter, part of the Regent Berlin Hotel and featuring chandeliers galore, is famed for its exquisite French seafood.

In contrast, Guide newcomer Nobelhart & Schmutzig (Friedrichstr. 218, www. nobelhartundschmutzig.com) is adamantly unpretentious, with a culinary concept that challenges the staid status quo: Everything, without exception, served on the 10-course

tasting menu is sourced locally. Similarly, Bandol sur Mer (Torstr. 167, www. bandolsurmer.de), another single-starred newcomer, located in the trendy heart of Mitte, is more brasserie than fancy. The scene is young and trendy, the food French-leaning and modern.

Many Michelin-starred restaurants are located inside high-end hotels, but for a homier atmosphere, there are restaurants like Frühsammers (Flinsberger Platz 8, www. fruehsammers-restaurant.de), a husband-andwife endeavor housed in a handsome old villa in the tony residential neighborhood of Grunewald. Chef Sonja Frühsammer, whose specialty is fresh, creative German-influenced cuisine, holds the distinction of being Berlin’s only Michelin-starred female chef. Bieberbau (Durlacher Str. 15, www.bieberbau-berlin.de) is another intimate, somewhat off-the-beatentrack spot to try upscale German dishes. The location, a wood-beamed cottage dating back to the 1890s, is both charming and cozy.

fischers fritz: courtesy of the regent hotel; lorenz adlon esszimmer: © hotel adlon kempinski; bieberbau © c. lanninger; Nobelhart & schmutzig: © marko seifert photography.

Clockwise from top left: Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer, Fischers Fritz, Bieberbau

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

Fine Dining For a complete list of Michelin-starred restaurants, visit www.wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil

Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45.

T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www. restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine.

Its reputation as one of Berlin’s go-to gourmet destinations is well earned. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapester Str. 2.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Les Solistes Refined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restaurant in the Waldorf Astoria widespread renown. Under the leadership of star chef Pierre Gagnaire, the menu has clear French influences

while daring to incorporate flavors from India, the Middle East, and further afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.waldorfastoriaberlin.com.

Hardenbergstr. 28. T: 030.8140000.

S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Markus Semmler Named “Restaurateur of the Year” in 2000— amongst many other awards and distinctions— Markus Semmler has launched a new solo project.

In his restaurant, he serves expertly handled German classics with a fine-tuned sense for quality. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.kochkunst-ereignisse.de.

Sächsische Str. 7 T: 030.89068290.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13.

T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Restaurant Richard The nondescript street belies the splendor of Richard’s gourmet creations and interior, which includes carved wooden ceilings and stainedglass. The 19th-century architecture gets a modern boost from the décor. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. restaurant-richard.de. Köpenicker Str. 174.

T: 030.49207242.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars

fischers fritz: courtesy of the regent hotel; lorenz adlon esszimmer: © hotel adlon kempinski; bieberbau © c. lanninger; Nobelhart & schmutzig: © marko seifert photography.

Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234.

S Potsdamer Platz. D3

First Floor

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DINING

Dining in the historical heart of Berlin in the Nikolaiviertel.

Risotto world champion and top chef Holger Zurbrüggen celebrates new German cuisine at affordable prices.

Korea In Kreuzberg The fad for Asian-influenced food with a hipster twist has taken Berlin by storm. One of the latest eateries to win over local foodies is Pacifico, a tasty “buns and bowls” hotspot with Californian vibes and a fusion-style menu, located around the corner from the Prince Charles club (and run by the same owners) at Kreuzberg’s Moritzplatz. What does hipster Asian fusion look like? Imagine burgers served on brioche with kimchi and cheddar, “tacos” of crispy duck stuffed into steamed Asian-style buns, or diverse rice bowls topped with tasty tidbits like spicy pulled pork, Japanese-style curried vegetables, sashimi, pomegranate seeds, or peanuts – and extra-spicy, homemade kimchi, of course. Everything comes packed with flavor, making for a satisfying meal for adventurous tastebuds, or for a snack of spicy kimchi fries before heading to the club.

Oranienstr. 147. www.pacifico-berlin.com

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue– Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de.

Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760.

U Oranienburger Tor. E4

T: 0 30 30 88 21 56 Email: info@balthazar-spreeufer.de

Daily from noon to 10 pm. www.balthazar-spreeufer.de

great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, and beef tartare. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant

features modern art and a stylish interior alongside classic and updated French cuisine. Inside Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, Locals usually leave a tip this is the perfect spot for a posh of approximately 10% if business lunch or romantic dinner. A they are happy with a sizable selection of starters tempts restaurant's service. as much as the sumptuous mains and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel. com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF

Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23.

T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr.

49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes

PACIFICO: ©DIEGO CASTELLANO, WWW.DIEGOCASTELLANO.COM

Insider‘s tip: daytime menu starting at e15.

by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu.

Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

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RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transitrestaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28.

T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

KREUZBERG Jolesch Austrian. This elegant spot divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined, homey dishes like Tafelspitz beef. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1.

T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21.

T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

MITTE Balthazar 2 Spreeufer

Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET

International. The new branch of the Charlottenburg establishment, this central restaurant is bound to become a popular destination thanks to creative dishes like tomato and ginger soup, Thai chicken salad, or mushroom risotto with cardamon. €€–€€€.

Daily D. www.balthazar-spreeufer.de. Balthazar Spreeufer 2. T: 030.30882156.

U Klosterstraße. F3

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com ENJOY FROM MO-FR OUR SPECIAL LUNCH OFFERS FROM NOON TO 3 PM.

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55.

T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com.

Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555.

U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

German. The Reichstag is much more than a sightseeing destination. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destinatio. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views in addition to the refined, modern German cuisine. Reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkostkaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Berlinale Highlights As one of the world’s “big three” film festivals, the Berlin International Film Festival, better known as the Berlinale, has enjoyed a history as prestigious as it has been glamorous. Founded in West Berlin in 1951, the festival in its first year saw Alfred Hitchcock’s now-classic Rebecca open the event, while the honor this year goes to Joel and Ethan Coen’s upcoming comedy Hail, Caesar!

The '50s-era comedy stars a veritable who’s-who of cinema, including Scarlett Johansson (pictured), Ralph Fiennes, and Channing Tatum, as well as Coen Brothers regulars George Clooney and Frances McDormand. And while the film marks the Coens’ return to the theme of Golden-Age Hollywood, this foray delves further into marrying history and fiction, with Josh Brolin filling the shoes of real-life Hollywood “fixer” Eddie Mannix and Johansson’s character reportedly styled after MGM

starlet Esther Williams.

When it comes to film royalty, few are more worthy of the crown than Meryl Streep, who heads up this year’s jury committee – the folks responsible for awarding the coveted Golden Bear. “It is with great relish and anticipation I look forward to jury duty,” said the actress, who herself took home an Honorary Golden Bear in 2012. “The responsibility is somewhat daunting, as I have never been president of anything before.”

An annual part of the festival, this year’s Retrospective program focuses on 1966, a seminal year for German film in both East and West. While film luminaries such as Werner Herzog and Wim Wenders were ushering in the New German Cinema movement, their Eastern contemporaries saw their films banned under the Socialist regime. The contrast between the two cinematic movements is screened in a selection of some two dozen films, while the

Museum for Film and Television (Museum für Film und Fernsehen, Potsdamer Str. 2, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de) offers a complementary exhibit and showcases television shows from that year.

Other highlights of this year’s festival include a restored and digitized version of Fritz Lang’s Destiny (Der müde Tod), whose brand-new score will be performed live by the Berlin Rundfunk Symphony Orchestra (12 Feb, Friedrichstadt-Palast). The 2016 Honorary Golden Bear will be presented to German cinematographer Michael Ballhaus, the man behind the striking look of such films as Martin Scorsese’s Gangs of New York and Goodfellas.

Tickets for screenings sell out quickly. In years past, sale times were 10am three days prior, both online and at ticket stands. To be certain, verify sale times and find ticket kiosks by visiting www.berlinale.de. 11-21 Feb. See website for screening locations.

all photos courtesy of berlinale.

Each February, Berlin one-ups Hollywood by throwing a film festival of Cecil B. DeMille proportions. Former LA resident Jenna Rose Robbins gets the scoop on this year’s bash.

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Ballet & Opera

Classical Concerts

Deutsche Oper

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic.

Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 5, 13 Feb: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). 12 Feb: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 14 Feb: Lohengrin (Wagner). 21, 27 Feb: La Traviata (Verdi). 29 Feb: I Capuleti e i Montecchi (Bellini). www. deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35.

T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 1 Feb: Hagen Quartett plays works by Haydn, Webern, and Schumann. 9 Feb: Magdalena Kozena and Sir Simon Rattle (piano) perform Chausson, Stravinsky, Ravel, and more.

15 Feb: Carte Blanche. 22 Feb: Pianist Piotr Anderszewski plays Janacek, Bartók, and Bach.

28 Feb: The Orchestra Academy of the Berliner Philharmoniker perform Vivaldi, Schmidt, and others. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbertvon-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 3, 6, 26, 28 Feb: Jewgeni Onegin (Tchaikovski). 5, 7, 27 Feb: Xerxes (Händel).

8, 20 Feb: My Fair Lady (Loewe). 9, 29 Feb: West Side Story (Bernstein). 11, 14, 15 Feb: La Belle Hélène (Offenbach). 14 Feb: My Funny Valentine. 17 Feb: Les Contes d’Hoffmann (Offenbach). 21, 22 Feb: Kiss me, Kate (Cole Porter). www.komische-oper-berlin.de.

Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 1, 17, 20, 24 Feb: Swan Lake (Tchaikovsky).1 Feb: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky).

25 Feb: Multiplicity. Forms of Silence and Emptiness.

Music by Bach, chor. Nacho Duato. 14, 16, 18, 21, 26, 28 Feb: Herrumbre (Duato). 13 Feb: Hänsel and Gretel (Grieg). www.staatsballett-berlin.de.

T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140.

U Deutsche Oper. B3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 1 Feb: Academy of Saint Martin in the Fields. 12 Feb: Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin: Shakespeare and Music. 13 Feb: Vogler Quartett plays Beethoven and Smetana. 19 and 20 Feb: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Marc Minkowski) performs Wagner and Offenbach.

26 –28 Feb: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Iván Fischer) performs Messiaen. www.konzerthaus.de.

Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101.

U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other acclaimed ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 11–13 Feb: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Blomstedt, mezzo soprano Sophie Koch) perform Berwald and Dvorák. 18–20 Feb: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.Sir Simon Rattle) performs Poulenc, Ravel. 25–27 Feb: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle, violin Stabrawa) perform Roussel, Rameau. www. berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-KarajanStr. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!

Now: IMAX goes IMAX Laser!

photo © MATT SAV

Tame Impala Psychedelic rock has received a recent resurgence in popularity, thanks in part to the Australian group who has their homeland going gaga for their ethereal synth sounds. In addition to winning Album of the Year in both 2011 and 2012, Tame Impala took home numerous ARIA Awards (the Oz equivalent of the Grammy) for their most recent release, Currents, which has moments that sound as if Jefferson Airplane and The Cure decided to collaborate during one of Robert Smith’s happier moments. Likened to Pink Floyd as often as The Flaming Lips, the band has developed an impressive following in the music world, earning kudos from musicians such as Mark Ronson and Blur's Graham Coxon.

8 Feb. at Columbiahalle (p. 48).

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Discover ORIGINAL MONDAY at KulturBrauerei, feat. select undubbed films with German subtitles!

Info and tickets at cinestar.de

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Too much work is cool, you’re in demand and alive.*

I Like To Be In America Back in 1957, Shakespeare’s classic love tragedy Romeo and Juliet got a modernized retelling as the musical West Side Story, now a similarly timeless production from Broadway legends Stephen Sondheim, Leonard Bernstein, and Jerome Robbins. The tale of two rival New York street gangs comes to life once again with some updated direction and choreography specifically tailored to the Berlin production. Catch it now, as this is the last month the production will be performed at the Komische Oper, on 9 and 29 Feb.

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

ROCK, POP, JAZZ A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105.

T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Theatre with English surtitles *A Piece of Plastic

by Marius von Mayenburg Direction: Marius von Mayenburg On February 3, 8 pm Hamlet

by William Shakespeare Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On February 7, 7.30 pm Richard III

by William Shakespeare Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On February 29, 7.30 pm

Tickets: 030 890023 www.schaubuehne.de

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of

today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 7 Feb: The Libertines in concert. 8 Feb: Tame Impala. 12 Feb: Disclosure in concert. 22 Feb: Foals. www. columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21.

T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären.

2 Feb: André Rieu. 10 Feb: Ice World– Live in concert. 13 Feb: ISTAF Indoor. 19 Feb: Mario Barth, comedy show. 26–27 Feb: Night of The

Cabaret Homage To Ziggy Stardust If you missed the chance to catch David Bowie when he performed as his alter-ego Ziggy Stardust, Starman may be the next best thing. Covering some of the biggest hits from the music legend’s glam-rock era, Sven Ratzke evokes a campy yet convincing caricature of Bowie’s erstwhile persona, performed in the cabaret-style atmosphere of Tipi am Kanzleramt. Between Ratzke’s takes on such classics as Space Oddity and Rebel Rebel, the lauded Dutch/ German entertainer weaves an outlandish interstellar tale (in German), much like a “Baron Munchausen from space,” and obliges participation with select audience members, which might make some of the remote tables more attractive to those who prefer to remain out of the spotlight.

9-14 February, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

WEST SIDE STORY: PHOTO BY IKO FREESE/DRAMA-BERLIN.DE, COURTESY OF KOMISCHE OPER BERLIN. STARMAN: COURTESY OF TIPI AM KANZLERAMT, SVEN RATZKE, © DENIS VELDMANN

ENTERTAINMENT

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Jumps, acrobatic motorbike show. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de.

Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899.

U Warschauer Straße. G4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 9 Feb: The Phantom of the Opera. 13 Feb: Night of the Dance. 17–18 Feb: Massive Attack in concert.

25 Feb–13 Mar: Holiday On Ice. www.tempodrom. de. Möckernstr. 10.

Toll number: 0186.554111.

S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bluemax Theater The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. www.stageentertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. Until 21 Feb: Wunderkammer. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41.

T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions, and variety shows at this 1920 theater.

2–7 Feb and 25–29 Feb: The Wyld, a €10-million Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. 11–21 Feb: Berlinale. www.palast-berlin.eu.

Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326.

U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107.

Toll number: 01806.999000969.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Theater am Potsdamer Platz The 1800-seat theater designed by Renzo Piano features musicals and international performances.

All month: Beyond the Horizon, musical (German with English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www.stage-entertainment. de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. 29 Feb: CarringtonBrown Duo. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550.

U Bundestag. D3 www.wheretraveler.com 49

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Dinner Theater Reinvented While there’s no shortage of dinner theater in the German capital, Palazzo stands apart, offering an evening of entertainment and dining born of a rare pedigree.

The two architects behind the retro production include Kolja Kleeberg of celebrated restaurant VAU and Hans-Peter Wodarz, known throughout Germany for his culinary ventures and TV cooking show Berlin Kocht (Berlin Cooks). Together, the duo has produced an evening that delights audiences from around the globe with circus-themed entertainment and four courses of international cuisine that illustrates why Kleeberg has been heaped with accolades, including a Michelin star.

Performers regale with feats of physical wonder and antics that know no language barriers. The simple act of blowing bubbles becomes masterful in the hands of Burl the Bubble Guy, while Irish/English duo Up & Over It perform dance percussion, a form of

musical performance that hints at their Riverdance origins but takes some unexpected – and humorous – turns.

Even standard circus acts get upgrades.

Not content to juggle in place, Ukrainian Oleg Dyalchuk rolls about in a customized ball that allows him to spill out towards the audience and come within a hair of tumbling off the stage. French-Canadian duo Bande Artistique melds comedy and operatic singing, while rockabilly hula-hoop artist Igor Boutorine demonstrates moves that would make Elvis blush.

Even the venue has a storied past. As one of the many mobile dance pavilions popular at the turn of the 19th century, the Spiegelpalast (Mirror Palace) holds its own charm, with heaps of brocade, silk, and its namesake mirrors, all of which add to the ambiance of yesteryear.

Kynaststr. 25. www.palazzo.org.

Tickets: 01806388883.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF PALAZZO

Jenna Rose Robbins took in some old-fashioned vaudeville entertainment served with a side of Michelin-starred fare.

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BEER Ankerklause A canal-side nautical tavern. Drinks come with beautiful views of boats passing by. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm) www.ankerklause.de.

Kottbusser Damm 104.

T: 030.6935649.

U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2.

T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Amber Suite This fun club for over-27s is the perfect place to socialize while dancing and drinking. There are two dance floors (playing house, dance music, and black beats), three bar lounges, a buffet with barbecue in summer, and a pleasant terrace for chats under the stars. Open Fri from 7pm till late, Sat from 8pm. www.ambersuite.info. Mariendorfer Damm 1. T: 030.74070609.

U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map

Berghain/Panorama Bar Known as the “world capital of techno,” the club straddling the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain (thus the name) is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultraselected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof.

T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus

This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9.

T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24.

T: 030.2829295.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Prater

Felix Club

Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed celebrities like Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72.

T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3

Schleusenkrug

This Prenzlauer Berg newcomer is an eccentric combination of a club, a piano bar, a cabaret, and a circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1.

U Eberswalder Str. F1

Dicke Wirtin

A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

CLUBS Adagio A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dancehall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorative-chic style.

Fri–Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. © ISTOCK PHOTOS

T: 030.2589890.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The bartender at speakeasy-style Bar Buck & Breck (p. 52) will mix your cocktail according to your mood.

Horns & Hooves

House of Weekend Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.weekend-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Kater Blau Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau. de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Magnet Club Rock, indie, and punk evenings, and dance floors both indoors and outdoors. Open Tue–Sun. www.magnet-club.de. Falckensteinstr. 48.

T: 030.44008140. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.wheretraveler.com 51

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The Grand

Art and nightlife collide at the annual CTM Festival, taking place in after-hours hot spots such as the world-famous techno club Berghain and featuring an eclectic lineup of acts, including Javanese musician Rully Shabara. www.ctm-festival.de

A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com.

Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555.

S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de.

Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar

The Pearl One of the most luxurious clubs in town attracts the poshest crowds, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81.

T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten. G4

Prince Charles A stylish club set in an old swimming pool building.

Tiled walls and concrete flooring are the main elements of its décor. Cocktail bar in the evening, wild dance club at night. Fri–Sun night. www.princecharlesberlin.com. Prinzenstr. 85F. U Moritzplatz. F4

Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting, with fabulous views from the roof of the Europa Center. Dress up. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12.

T: 030.26367875. U Zoologischer Garten, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

The Roses Berlin Kitsch is the word at this fun gay- and straightfriendly Kreuzberg bar. Cheap drinks. Daily from 9pm. Oranienstr. 187. T: 030.6156570. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Salon zur Wilden Renate In an old residential building on the cooler side of Friedrichshain, Wilde Renate is hugely popular with young and wild Berliners. Antlers, grand pianos, and heavy curtains create the atmosphere, and the sound system is impeccable. Thu–Sat from midnight. www.renate.cc. Alt-Stralau 70.

T: 030.25041426. S Treptower Park, S Ostkreuz. H4

Soda Club This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to electro and techno. www.soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97.

T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Suicide Circus Friday is techno night, while Saturdays lean more toward house and tech-house at Suicide Circus, a trendy and sweaty club that has hosted some of the best DJs in Europe. Outdoor dance floor in summer. Wed–Sun. www.suicide-berlin.com.

Revaler Str. 99. S Warschauer Straße. H4

Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com.

Köpenicker Str. 70.

T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends.

Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de.

Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Wine & Cocktails Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.

Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Le Croco Bleu Expert bar staff puts great care into each of the elaborate, oftentimes inventive drinks they make, and creative presentation makes the drinking experience even more memorable. www.lecrocobleu.com. Prenzlauer Allee 242.

T: 151.58247804. U Senefelderplatz. F2 Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar. de. Charlottenstr. 57.

T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

Reingold

Buck and Breck

Die Weinerei

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www. hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090.

U Französische Straße. E3

Newton Bar

Bar Tausend

You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www. buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr.

177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

LaBanca Bar

A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style.

Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and Berlin’s wildest club and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. nightlife scene is www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: concentrated along 030.28387676.

Revaler Straße, near U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Warschauer Straße.

€1 will get you a glass, which you can fill as many times as you want. Before you leave, leave as much money as you think your evening was worth. Friendly, unpretentious atmosphere, and good, organic food. Mon–Fri 1–8pm, Sat 11am–8pm. www.weinerei.com.

Veteranenstr. 14.

T: 030.4406983. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com.

Potsdamer Platz 3.

T: 030.337777.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Schwarzes Café

Eat, drink, and be merry. It’s all possible at this 24-hour spot, which combines a surprisingly elegant interior with an unpretentious atmosphere. Late-night kitchen and an affordable – not to mention exhaustive – cocktail menu.

24h daily except Tue from 3–10am. www. schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148.

T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. Open daily from noon to late evening. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10.

T: 030.311030.

S Savignyplatz. C4

courtesy of CTM festival

www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18.

T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

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THE GUIDE | ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION

The Oberbaum bridge

Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes Museum Berlin Pass: allows three days of unlimited access to major museums. www.visitberlin.de Berlin Welcome Card: public transport for three days and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. www.visitberlin.de City Tour Card: as above, but conditions vary, so best to check which is most suitable for you. www.citytourcard.com

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

The Kreuzberg canal

Black pudding

ASK THE CONCIERGE

TORSTEN KAMINSKI: COURTESY OF THE RITZ-CARLTON; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: © ISTOCK PHOTOS.

Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge.

Torsten Kaminski, concierge at the Ritz-Carlton, is here to help. www.lcdg.org

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins.

Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center.

Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Describe your perfect day in Berlin.

What are your secret Berlin tips?

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF)

My perfect day starts with breakfast at one of the cafés on Akazienstraße in Schöneberg: I really like the sunny patio at Gottlob, for example, or Café Sur. From there, I would go on a bike tour of the city.

The first stop would be Viktoriapark, with its panoramic views from the memorial at the top of the hill. Then I would have lunch at 3 Schwestern in the Künstlerhaus Bethanien on Mariannenplatz, and I would continue towards Berlin Mitte to check out what’s new in this ever-changing part of the city. For the perfect evening meal, I would go to 3 Minutes sur Mer on Torstraße, or to the other side of town to Lamazère Brasserie at Stuttgarter Platz in Charlottenburg.

The Georg Kolbe Museum in Westend, combined with a visit to the nearby Olympic Stadium; for art lovers, the Mies van der Rohe house in Hohenschönhausen.

I always recommend a tour of the former Tempelhof Airport and, for bicycle lovers and hikers, the stretch between Glienicke Bridge and Peacock Island.

Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

Where would you take out-of-town visitors?

Apart from the classic sights in Mitte, I’d take them to Kreuzberg, to the Oberbaumbrücke, to Oranienstraße and the Paul-Lincke-Ufer, and then for a drive through green Berlin, visiting places such as Schlachtensee lake, Peacock Island, or Potsdam.

Describe Berlin in three words.

Jedem sein Ding (something for everyone).

The coziest spot in Berlin?

For every Berliner, the coziest corner is his or her Kiez (neighborhood). In my case, this is definitely the cafés, small restaurants, and shops around Akazienstraße.

Tips for a German specialty?

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND

Well-made Blutwurst (black pudding or blood sausage) – apologies to vegetarians!

Public Transport

A romantic place in Berlin?

Fares

A very romantic spot that is also easy to get to is the Alter Garnisonfriedhof cemetery on Linienstraße, right in the middle of the hip Rosenthaler Platz quarter.

Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy

www.bvg.de.

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ESSENTIALS a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de.

T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.

One of the final western stations on the long U2 line, Olympia-Stadion was first opened in 1913 under the simple name Stadion (“stadium”). It was named for the nearby Deutsche Stadion, built to host the 1916 Summer Olympics that were cancelled due to the outbreak of WWI. When Berlin finally hosted the Olympics in 1936, the original station was expanded and given the imposing brick façade it still sports now, nearly a century later, despite sustaining damages in WWII air raids. These days, the station sees the most traffic when the local Hertha BSC soccer club holds home games in the Olympiastadion.

Real Estate Agencies Ad Hoc Immobilien Specializes in Berlin and Brandenburg real estate sales. Apartments, entire buildings, villas, and more. www.adhoc-immo.de. Hohe Allee 36, 15366 Neuenhagen bei Berlin. T: 03342.259560. Off Map

Allianz Offers select properties and is developing a number of building projects in various areas of Berlin. www.allianz-realestate.com.

Joachimstalerstr. 10-12. T: 030.212343562.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Toll number: 0180.6003690

Berlin Capital Investments

Taxis

Specializes in apartment sales in central Berlin for both investment and self-use. Visit website to search for small units, big apartments, or penthouses in Berlin’s most popular neighborhoods. www.berlin-capital.com.

T: 030.52009700.

Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

Money Services Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a "tax-free form" when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Berlin Hyp Immobilien Helps clients better understand the German real estate market and offers a wide range of commercial properties, from office buildings to industrial estates to shops. www.berlinhyp-immobilien.de. Budapester Str. 1.

T: 030.25999908. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Berlin Yield Estate Residential and commercial buildings in Berlin. www.berlinyieldestate.com. Unter den Linden 16.

T: 030.68324467. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlinmaegleren Covers a wide range of property types, from villas to apartments, and also offers rental services.

Second branch in Prenzlauer Berg. www.berlinmaegleren.de. Rankestr. 30.

T: 030.61202398. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

BNP Paribas Real Estate With its own subsidiaries and a close-knit network, this real estate agency is present nationwide.

Covers all relevant real estate markets and ensures detailed and comprehensive knowledge of the local market. www.realestate.bnpparibas.de.

Neues Kranzler Eck. Kurfürstendamm 22.

T: 030.884650. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Engel & Voelkers One of the world’s leading service companies in the provision of high-quality residential and commercial real estate and yachts in the premium segment. www.engelvoelkers.com. Bleibtreustr.

34-35. T: 030.88001188. S Savignyplatz. B4

Guthmann Estate Architects, economists, certified real estate agents, and apprentices serve international clients and provide real estate services, building project planning, and supervision, as well as analyses and market reports. www.guthmann-estate.com.

Blücherstr. 22. T: 030.69004240.

U Gneisenaustraße. E5

HIHC Horvat This real estate service agency will analyze clients’ housing needs and find an apartment to buy or rent on their behalf. HICH Horvat also offers relocation services for expats and international clients. www.hihc.de. Olympische Str. 1.

T: 030.33099930. U Neu Westend. Off Map

Virtu - Finest Real Estate Experts in the field of real estate, law, and economics joined to set new standards in the field of real estate marketing and consulting in Germany. www.virtu.com.de/en/. Jägerstr. 58-60.

T: 030.20679590. U Französische Straße. E3

Your Place Berlin These real estate agents and mediators offer personalized services and free consultations, promising to negotiate better deals for their clients. They specialize in clients who live abroad, offering to perform all research and to visit the apartments before the client’s arrival. www. yourplaceberlin.com. Willibald-Alexis-Str. 2.

T: 030.53064083. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

© istock photos

Public Ferries

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TRANSPORT MAP

BVG licence number: BVG-0024.15.

ESSENTIALS

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U

Where now | RUBY BARBERlerin

Ruby Barber FLORIST

When Ruby moved from her native Australia to Berlin and set up florist business Mary Lennox (named for the main character in the children's classic The Secret Garden), the local bar for bouquets was forever raised. Her lush, resplendent floral arrangements have beautified parties, weddings, and private events around the city, and can be ordered at the Mary Lennox counter in The Store x Soho House, Torstr. 1. Open Thu–Sat 10am-5pm and by appointment. www.marylennox.de

You first started out as a florist in Sydney.

How did you end up running your florist business in Berlin?

Before I moved here, I'd been working with flowers for years in Australia, so I already had a clear idea of what I wanted from a career in floristry. I arrived in Berlin with a goal, and I’m happy every day that I get to work on Mary Lennox and watch it grow and develop.

How would you describe your floral arrangement style?

I like to think my arrangements reflect a range of influences. I appreciate a rambling, English gardenstyle arrangement as much as a huge, simple bunch of eucalyptus foliage. I think there’s a time and place for both modern and classic flower arrangements, and I hope my style isn’t limited to only one aesthetic.

What about Berlin inspires you?

Everything feels possible here.

gartenakademie.de) are my two favorite spots in Berlin.

If Berlin were a flower or plant, which would it be?

The flower that reminds me most of Berlin is lilac. It's planted all over the city and, in the months the lilac is flowering, I think Berlin is at its most beautiful.

What are your favorite spots in the neighborhood where you live?

My local park, Volkspark Friedrichshain, is beautiful.

If you were going to make someone an arrangement in the month of February, what kind of plants would you use in it?

Ranunculus, anemone, and poppies are among my February favorites.

Are there any places in Berlin you’d recommend a botany fan to visit?

The Botanical Gardens (KöniginLuise-Str. 6-8, www.bgbm.org) and the Königliche Gartenakademie (Altensteinstr. 15a, www.koenigliche-

What is one of your favorite recent discoveries in the city?

I recently had the most delicious breakfast at Das Brunch, a pop-up brunch event at various locations. It’s only held once a season, so it's a special treat.

Imagine you have the luxury of a whole day off. Where do you go, and what do you do?

I really love plants and flowers, so most of the time I have off is spent exploring the natural landscape of Berlin and the surrounding areas of Brandenburg. I visit parks and gardens and hunt for new varieties of plants and flowers to work with.

Clockwise from top left: The greenhouse at the Botanical Gardens; Ruby Barber; a Mary Lennox floral arrangement for P & T Paper & Tea; Flower beds by Brandenburg Gate; lilacs; A breakfast salad at Das Brunch.

botanical gardens: courtesy of spsg botanical gardens; ruby lennox: © camille blake; courtesy of p & t paper & tea; brandenburg gatte: © istock photos; das brunch: photo by alexander zuber, www.alexanderzuber. com: lilac: © istock photos.

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