Where Berlin Magazin August 2015

A UGUS T 2 0 15 W her e T r Av el er . c om

Berlin

速

Recommended by youR concieRge

The

Multicultural City

A grand tour of berlin's international cuisines

PLUS Posh Picnics Taxi gourmet Alfresco dining

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB AUGUST 2015 COVER.indd 9

09/07/2015 11:41

WELCOME TO THE

BIG BERLIN FASHION SHOW 21 + 22.8.

NEW COLLECTION

LEIPZIGER PLATZ 12 5 LP-Anzeige August 2015-080715-schu.indd 1 WL MALL OF Where BERLIN.indd 1

MALL OF BERLIN

MALLOFBERLIN.DE 08.07.15 16:30 09/07/2015 08:44

Berlin

08.15

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

5 Editor’s Note

18

6 Hot Dates Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from a beer festival to "watertainment."

SHOPPING

2XX0

Peruse the shelves of the grande dame of German department stores, KaDeWe.

10

SIGHTSEEING

34 XX

6

Berlin (aka "Silicon Allee") has several apps to enhance your sightseeing experience.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

40 XX

DINING

46

16

XX

Whet your appetite at the city's most delicious and scenic places to dine alfresco.

66 My Perfect Day Layne Mosler The author and blogger has hailed many a Berlin taxi in search of the best cuisine.

14

XXof Europe's most celebrated One dance festivals returns to Berlin with Tanz im August.

Also Inside

Sebastian Schoenfisch from the Grand Hyatt Berlin shares his waterside tips.

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18 The Great Outdoors

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09/07/2015 11:41

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB AUGUST 2015 COVER.indd 9

LöbeLöbe

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BY HILDA HOY

PLUS Posh Picnics Taxi gourmet Alfresco dining

BUNDESTAG Paul-

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Set sail on a culinary adventure to all corners of the globe.

16 Picnics With Panache

H.-v.GagernStr.

10 Continental Cuisines

A grand tour of berlin's international cuisines

E.T. E. T.A A.Hoffman

Li

The

Multicultural City

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

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Recommended by youR concieRge

ESSENTIALS

61

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Drink down a good story at Le Croco Bleu.

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NIGHTLIFE

59

61 Ask The Concierge

A UGUS T 2 0 15 W her e T r Av el er . c om

ENTERTAINMENT

54

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AQUARELLA: COURTESY OF AQUARELLA; SUSHI AND MUSEUM ISLAND: © THINKSTOCK; PICNIC: COURTESY OF PICNIC BERLIN; JUMPSUIT: COURTESY OF MISSGUIDED.

Man's best friend gets his own exhibit in Gone to the Dogs! at the Kupferstichkabinett.

B Mu

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4 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU G U S T 2015

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

A World Of Flavors

When I first moved to Berlin in 1990, the first thing I noticed was the limited choice of food in the supermarkets. I had been living in Florence, Italy, where I'd become a bit spoiled by the huge variety of produce and cheeses available. In Berlin, the only food remotely comparable to what I was used to was some mozzarella-like imitation cheese.

The reddish globes at the local supermarket tasted nothing like the tomatoes of Tuscany, finding zucchini was not something you could take for granted, and if you wanted something as "exotic" as chard, you would just have to go to the gourmet section at the KaDeWe luxury department store (p. 20). Mind you, this was not East Berlin – we are talking post-reunification West Berlin. Back then, the city just did not have much of a culinary culture.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

This month is also filled with events that are testament to just how international this city has become. The annual Tanz im August dance festival (p. 53) draws top performers and choreographers from around the world, while global music talents Björk (p. 54) and Patti Smith (p. 56) play some of the city's biggest venues.

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

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(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

A quarter of a century has passed and, believe me, everything has changed.

If, as I firmly believe, cultural shifts always pass by way of people's kitchens, then the major changes brought about by German unification also triggered a whole new way of looking at food. The average Berliner’s refrigerator is now filled with all sorts of international influences, and the city landscape is dotted with hundreds of different restaurants, exotic food stores, and street-food trucks selling delicacies from every corner of the planet. This month, Hilda Hoy writes about the many ways immigrant communities and international influences have shaped the city’s multicultural cuisines. Flip to page 10 to explore her world map of Berlin’s diverse culinary scene.

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until October, 31st 2015.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de N L A S O A Y E D I R 0 E S H R G N E T K

S E T G L T I N W N N 7 H C E F E G R E R

A A I E E T N M A T U S R H O K N W A L I

T K K H O E F U R E N N H W R G A A K L E

O S A E N N O S A R G O E O I B U T T I G

P H N I 9 R R E G A B W R E E Z F C E T B

A A W M / E M U E K E D B R M E K H 2 K O

S C O E 1 I A M N T R E S U A I L I 0 A N

W K L S 1 C T W T I L N T N U T A N 1 L D

I E F N S H I O C V I A V G L Z E S 5 T W

K R M A C S O R I T N B E S W E R I S E W

I V F P H P N L A A 0 W R T U U U D A R W

www.spymuseumberlin.com

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HOT DATES Savor every last sweet moment of summer as the August calendar heats up with adventures cultural, nautical, and musical.

FROM FRIDAY

14

TOTALLY NAUTICAL The Aquarella Berlin spectacular lights up the Spree River for two weekends this month. Each show is a combination of boat ride, dinner, concert, laser installation, fireworks, and an impressive-sounding “ship ballet.” Get on board and prepare to be dazzled. www.aquarella-berlin.de 6 W H EERREE LO BER NLDI N ON I AU I JG AN US UA T R2015 Y 2013

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CALENDAR | WHERE NOW FROM WEDNESDAY

26

AQUARELLA: COURTESY OF AQUARELLA. POP KULTUR: COURTESY OF EBONY BONES; DRUMMER: © KAI BIENERT; MUSEUM ISLAND: © THINKSTOCK.

MASS APPEAL Berlin Music Week has reinvented itself as PopKultur, a forum where international stars and subcultures merge.

During the three-day festival, musicians, artists, and other pop-minded entrepreneurs turn the capital into a music hot spot, with an energetic lineup of concerts, workshops, and other events all taking place in and around the legendary nightclub Berghain. www.pop-kultur.berlin

SATURDAY

29

NOCTURNAL CULTURE

Up to 100 Berlin museums and memorials take part in the Long Night of Museums, keeping their doors open until well past midnight and providing special programs, such as concerts, guided tours, and hands-on activities. One ticket gets you access to all the venues, as well as free rides on the event's shuttle buses or public transport. www.lange-nacht-der-museen.de

6

FROM THURSDAY

TOMORROW’S MUSICIANS TODAY With more than 1400 musicians from 44 nations, the Young Euro Classic showcases the world’s best youth orchestras during an 18-day program at Berlin’s Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt. For the festival finale, an initiative of musical diplomacy unites talent from Ukraine, Russia, Germany, and Armenia. www.young-euro-classic.de

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Our recommendations for every day of the month!

SATURDAY

15

BAROQUE SPLENDOR

Experience Sanssouci like Prussian royalty at the 17th Potsdam Palace Night. For one midsummer's evening, the Schloss gardens and temples open their doors to present concerts, dance, plays, and lectures, all hosted by performers in masks and costumes from an era long gone.

Stay until the stroke of midnight for the fireworks display. www. potsdamer-schloessernacht.de

FROM THURSDAY

27

THE WORLD OF WATERTAINMENT Majestic water formations choreographed to the melodies of classical masterpieces and modernday electronica form the centerpiece of this unique melding of music and movement, held at the former Tempelhof Airport. Kicking off the first of six evenings of open-air concerts is Berlin's very own superstar-DJ Paul van Dyk. www.aquanario.com

FROM FRIDAY

7

CHEERS TO BEER

Give a hearty Prost to the 19th International Beer Festival, where 800,000 suds-loving visitors and breweries from all over the world will be on tap to set another Guinness World Record for the longest beer garden. You'll find more than 2400 brews to sample, but the focus of this year's event is on specialties from Poland. By the end of the day, walking a straight line down KarlMarx-Allee between Strausberger Platz and Frankfurter Tor may prove difficult. www.bierfestival-berlin.de

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

AUGUST Today and tomorrow are your last chances to see Jesus Christ Superstar at Deutsche Oper.

Iceland's eclectic music queen Björk rocks the Zitadelle Spandau tonight.

Hop a train to Potsdam to admire the regal gardens of Sanssouci in summer splendor.

It's open-air movie time again! Pull up a lawn chair at Freiluftkino Kreuzberg.

Pooch lovers: View the whimsical Gone to the Dogs! exhibit at the Kupferstichkabinett.

The two-week Young Euro Classic youth orchestra fest gets underway at Konzerthaus.

Kick off the weekend with a drink at Becketts Kopf, Prenzlauer Berg's best cocktail bar.

Weekends are for brunching. Try the lavish spread at Anna Blume in Prenzlauer Berg.

The weekend flea market on Straße des 17.

Juni in Tiergarten park is a Berlin must.

Walk on the wild side at Berlin’s famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park.

Do the Time Warp at Admiralspalast: The Rocky Horror Show musical is on all week.

Art fans will love the Gemäldegalerie, a museum of Renaissance paintings.

Renowned dance fest Tanz im August kicks off at various locations around the city.

Blue, bald, and legendary: See the Blue Man Group show at BLUEMAX Theater.

Star conductor Daniel Barenboim leads the West-Eastern Divan Orchestra at Waldbühne.

Dig for retro treasures and antiques at the Mauerpark flea market, held every Sunday.

Catch a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, one of few theaters to play movies in English.

Admire Chinese drawings from the Ming and Qing dynasties at the Museum for Asian Art. Shake a leg at the outdoor, riverside dance floor of the Monbijou Theater.

Cruise the Spree River! Hop on a boat tour leaving from the Schiff bauerdamm pier.

Join Berliners in a favorite summer pastime: a swim in west-end Schlachtensee lake.

The exhibit on director Rainer Fassbinder at Martin-Gropius-Bau ends tomorrow.

Sing along with UB40 and their classic hit Red Red Wine at Huxley's Neue Welt tonight.

Admire the annual dahlia extravaganza at the beautiful Britzer Botanical Garden.

Be wowed by The Wyld, a futuristic Las Vegasstyle show at Friedrichstadt-Palast.

The three-day Pop-Kultur Festival dedicated to edgy music culture kicks off at Berghain.

Visit newly reopened Chamäleon Varieté theater to see the Wunderkammer show.

Where breakdancing and Bach meet: See the Red Bull Flying Bach show at Konzerthaus.

It's ice hockey season at Mercedes-Benz Arena. Cheer on Berlin's Eisbären tonight.

Classical concert meets spectacular laser show at the Aquanario Festival at Tempelhof.

Grab a seat in the famed Prater Biergarten, which has been serving beer since 1837.

POTSDAM PALACE NIGHT: © E. KLOEPPEL; AQUANARIO: COURTESY OF AQUANARIO; BEER FESTIVAL: INTERNATIONALES BERLINER BIERFESTIVAL.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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Two Millennia of German Jewish History

in Daniel Libeskind‘s landmark building

Open daily 10 am – 8 pm, Mondays 10 am – 10 pm CURRENT SPECIAL EXHIBITION UNTIL 13 SEPTEMBER 2015

Audio guides available in English, Deutsch, Français, Italiano, Español, ‫עברית‬, 日本語, pусский

Lindenstr. 9 – 14 · 10969 Berlin · Germany · T +49 (0)30 – 25993 300

#jmberlin

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www.jmberlin.de

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Chicago Williams BBQ

NORTH AMERICA

Sometimes, there’s some truth in culinary stereotypes.

For example, the best American food in Berlin is big and meaty. Chicago Williams BBQ (p. 51) offers slabs of sticky ribs, heaps of pulled pork with baked beans on the side, and gooey Philly cheesesteaks. For an allAmerican burger, head to The Bird (p. 52) for Da Woiks, a thick, juicy patty topped with cheese, bacon, onions, and mushrooms. If your tastes tend to gravitate south of the American border, sate your taco craving at Mexicanowned Ta'Cabrón in Kreuzberg (Skalitzer Str. 60). Fillings like cochinita pibil pork, chicken mole, or crispy battered shrimp are wrapped in soft corn tortillas with all the fixings. Wash it down with horchata (cinnamon rice milk) or a tangy margarita. RosaCaleta (Muskauer Str. 9, www. rosacaleta.com) delivers a taste of Jamaican fusion with updated delicacies like fiery jerk chicken with rice and peas. Or go Trinidadian at Merle's Roti & Rum (Yorckstr.

22, www.trinidad-cuisine.de), where you’ll find both authentic food and warm island hospitality. What to order: the flaky, homemade roti with chicken curry or shrimp creole, plus a strong rum punch – Merle’s specialty.

CONTINENTAL

CUISINES

Yerba mate

SOUTH AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

The land of gauchos and cattle herds is world-renowned for its steak. For a great Argentinian slab of beef, don’t miss Sudaka (Goltzstr. 36, www.sudaka. de), a modern Schöneberg spot that has numerous South American delicacies on its menu, plus decadent, creamy dulce de leche flan for dessert. Empanadas are the mainstay at Friedrichshain’s Madama Gaucha (Samariterstr. 35), where you can also sip on energizing yerba mate served in a traditional gourd with a metal straw. For a taste of one of Peru’s greatest culinary exports, ceviche (raw fish “cooked” in a tangy bath of citrus juice), head to Cevicheria (Dresdener Str. 120, www.cevicheria-berlin.com), just behind Kottbusser Tor in Kreuzberg. The ceviche mixto paired with a pisco sour promises a flavor explosion.

Hilda Hoy charted the colorful variety of international cuisines that have put down roots in the capital.

As post-reunification Berlin has gladly claimed its place on the world stage, the tastes of its inhabitants have become increasingly international. These days, the city offers epicurean delights from most every corner of the globe, the best of which you'll find in this gourmet guide. Guten Appetit!

JERK CHICKEN: © GUIDO WOLLER; RESTAURANT INTERIOR: COURTESY OF CHICAGO WILLIAMS BBQ; YERBA MATE: © THINKSTOCK.

Jerk plate at RosaCaleta

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MULTICULTURAL DINING | WHERE NOW

EUROPE

European cuisines, especially German, Austrian, and Italian, are by far the most represented in Berlin. Still, there are some standouts, like Masaniello, which goes to great lengths to make pizza exactly the way proud Neapolitan tradition dictates Dóttir in Mitte (Hasenheide 20, www.masaniello.de). French food fans will fancy Lamazère Brasserie, with a three-course menu that embodies the best of the country's renowned food culture (Stuttgarter Platz 18, www.lamazere. de). For a taste of the oft-forgotten north, try the super-chic Dóttir, whose Icelandic chef uses Nordic ingredients like snow crab, fish roe, and licorice (Mittelstr. 40, www. dottirberlin.com). Pierogarnia (Turiner Str. 21, www.pierogarnia.de) features that famous stick-to-your-ribs Eastern European dish, pierogi. A variety of homemade pierogi from meaty (pork) to vegan (sauerkraut and wild mushroom) are served with fried onions and sour cream. Stroll the Berlin streets and you'll no doubt note the city's sizable Turkish population – and numerous restaurants. One of the originals is Kreuzberg’s Hasir (p. 50), a grill house decorated with pretty painted tiles and reportedly the birthplace of the nowubiquitous döner kebab sandwich.

Tagine with lamb at Kasbah

DÓTTIR INTERIOR: © STEFAN KORTE; LAMB TAGINE: © KASBAH.

AFRICA & THE MIDDLE EAST

The cultural and culinary diversity of the vast African continent can’t be summed up in one paragraph, but Ebe Ano (Pohlstr. 52, www.ebe-ano.de) is a good place to start for an overview of West African cuisine, what with its egusi (melon seed soup), fufu (pounded yam), and spicy fish stew. The rich bean and meat wat, or stews, of Ethiopia can be sampled at Bejte Ethiopia in Schöneberg (Zietenstr. 8, www.bejte-ethiopia. de), where pieces of soft injera flatbread take the place of cutlery and the aroma of roasting beans fills the room during the nightly traditional coffee ceremony. Sample the hybrid of Mediterannean, Arabic, and Andalusian influences in Moroccan cuisine at Mitte’s Kasbah (Gipsstr. 2, www.kasbah-berlin.de) by trying the lamb-prune or chicken-preserved lemon tagine stew, plus couscous and a sweet mint tea. Thanks to Berlin’s sizeable Arabic population, the city has numerous Middle Eastern Imbisse, or snack bars, that serve cheap yet delicious meals. Visit Babel in Prenzlauer Berg (Kastanienallee 33) or Al-Andalos in Neukölln (Sonnenallee 40) for a Lebanese platter to share, heaped with hummus, stuffed vine leaves, chicken shawarma, and tabbouleh salad.

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WHERE NOW | MULTICULTURAL DINING

EAST ASIA Bibimbap

Sushi places abound, but for discerning fans, Sasaya (Lychenerstr.

50, www.sasaya-berlin.de) is by far one of the best, with skilled sushi chefs at the helm working with the freshest fish around. For another dimension of Japanese cuisine, slurp on soupy ramen noodles at one of Cocolo’s two noodle bar locations (Gipsstr.

3, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 39). Or get a taste of Korea at Kreuzberg’s Madang (Gneisenaustr. 8) by slathering plenty of kimchi on a sizzling bibimbap rice bowl or tabletop barbecue. For authentic and impeccably fresh Chinese food, make the trip to Dajiale in Schöneberg (Goebenstr. 23, www.dajiale-berlin.de) and order the Beijing-style pork in pancakes and the fiery Sichuan beef stew.

Chen Che in Mitte

SOUTHEAST & SOUTH ASIA

The 1970s and ‘80s saw a huge influx of immigrants from Vietnam, and today the predominant Asian ethnicity in Berlin – both in population and cuisines – is still Vietnamese. Get a quick, fresh bowl of noodles or curry at Hamy (Hasenheide 10, www. hamycafe.com), or sip tea at the beautiful Chen Che teahouse (Rosenthaler Str. 13, www. chenche-berlin.de). The best place to find Berlin’s Thai community is every weekend in Wilmersdorf’s Preußenpark, where scores of Thai women cook up traditional dishes for eager picnickers. For a sit-down Thai meal, Dao (Kantstr. 133, www.dao-restaurant.de) is rumored to be the best in town. To get your Indian curry fix, try Zaika (Wicherstr. 57, www.restaurant-zaika.de) or get a south Indian stuffed dosa at Chutnify (Sredzkistr. 43, www.chutnify.com), which has been garnering lots of buzz since its opening last year.

BIBIMBAP AND SUSHI: © THINKSTOCK; RESTAURANT INTERIOR: COURTESY OF CHEN CHE.

Fresh sushi

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VIVE LA MODE! DISCOVER THE WORLD OF INTERNATIONAL FASHION, BEAUTY PRODUCTS AND MUST-HAVE ACCESSORIES AND ENJOY EXQUISITE FRENCH FOOD AND DELICACIES AT GALERIES LAFAYETTE BERLIN MONDAY – SATURDAY 10AM – 8PM GALERIES LAFAYETTE · FRIEDRICHSTRASSE 76 – 78 · BERLIN WWW.GALERIESLAFAYETTE.DE · GALERIESLAFAYETTEBERLIN

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Where NoW | Grand Tour

Exploring Berlin Publically and Beautifully A

side from operating Berlin’s public transportation, the BVG also doubles as an inexpensive tour guide to the city. Whether your interest lies in the main sights or in places less commonly visited by tourists, with the BVG’s diverse forms of transportation, all is accessible for the price of a ticket. (A day ticket will allow you to hop on and off as you like.)

After the reunification of Germany, the BVG created the bus lines 100 and 200 to physically bring together and symbolize the unification of East and West. Board either line at S+U Zoologischer Garten, making sure to snag a seat on the upper deck, where the views are best. The first stop is the Gedächtniskirche, a half-bombed structure that symbolizes the destruction of

war, followed by Tiergarten, a former royal hunting area that's now the city's largest public park.

Continuing on, be sure to have all eyes peeled for the subsequent sights at the Kulturforum at Potsdamer Platz, including the Philharmonie, with its lively modernist architecture reminiscent of a circus tent.

The bus makes a turn onto the famous tree-lined Unter den Linden boulevard, with the Brandenburg Gate filling the skyline, before passing the main building of Humboldt, the oldest university in Berlin.

Farther down is Museum Island and the majestic Berlin Cathedral, both worthy of debarking for a more in-depth look.

At Alexanderplatz, Bus 100 reaches its terminal station, but the 200 continues on into Prenzlauer Berg and Friedrichshain,

to Volkspark Friedrichshain. The oldest public park in the former East Berlin features a skate park, beach volleyball courts, and a century-old Fairytale Fountain (Märchenbrunnen), lined with statues of characters from German lore.

Other bus routes offer different takes on Berlin. The nostalgic Bus 218 offers a charming historic experience in itself and is recommended in conjunction with a visit to Peacock Island (Pfaueninsel). These antique buses depart from U Theodor-Heuss-Platz and take a scenic route through Grunewald forest and along Wannsee lake. The friendly bus drivers make personalized announcements at every stop, giving brief historical context along the way. Once there, take the short ferry ride across the water to the island itself, where you'll find a

BVG Bus and Tram: © ThinksTock

Always enthusiastic about urban exploration, Serene Tseng boarded bus after tram after ferry to experience Berlin the way the BVG intended.

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compact castle on the western side of the island, an English garden and, of course, the island's eponymous inhabitants. Plan to leave by dinnertime, as the buses stop in the early evening.

Named by National Geographic as one of the top 10 most beautiful tram routes in the world, Tram 68, once named the Uferbahn (waterside tram), offers a picturesque ride through the Köpenick forest and Dahme

riverside. Hop on at the Köpenick S-Bahn station for views of the densely green side of off-the-beaten-path Berlin, including the Rathaus Köpenick and the statue of the infamous imposter known as the Captain of Köpenick. Passing through the locality of Grünau, famous for hosting water sports competitions during the 1936 Olympics, the tram meanders along the shore of the Langer See, beckoning a disembarkment

for an idyllic afternoon spent at the lakeside.

The tram terminates in Schmöckwitz, a village surrounded by forest and lakes.

Speaking of waterways, the numerous rivers and tributaries that run through Berlin are also served by ferries under the BVG, with boarding only requiring a valid ticket.

Most of the six ferry lines operate in the Treptow-Köpenick Bezirk, which Tram 68 also runs through, making the combination of the 68 and the ferries ideal. Transferring from Tram 68 at its penultimate stop of Zum Seeblick gives access to the ferry line F21, which journeys across the Langer See every 30 minutes towards a historic waterside camping spot located on the peninsula of Krampenburg. A trek through the Berlin state forest here will lead to the Müggelheim neighborhood, where the X69 bus can be caught for a glimpse of the large Müggelsee lake before making the return to the city. www.wheretraveler.com 15

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WHERE NOW | MOVEABLE FEASTS

PICNICS WITH

H

ead down to Tempelhof Park (p.

38), formerly Tempelhof Airport, on a clear blue summer’s day and you’ll see crowds grilling sausages on their Webbers or lounging in deck chairs at the Luftgarten beer garden, all munching on their Imbiss-style snacks.

You too can opt for this tried-and-true Berlin tradition – or upgrade from outdoor nosh to memorable moveable feast.

Picnic Berlin (www.picnic-berlin. com), located at the park's Oderstraße entrance, has got picnicking in the bag – or basket, as the case may be. For €10, you can rent a picnic basket equipped with a blanket, porcelain plates, and other dining necessities, as well as entertainment items, such as a newspaper, speed badminton set, board game, or mini boules. For €30-40,

you can also fill the remaining space with desserts, seasonal summer salads and fruits, bread, and other meat-free options, before finding your own quiet corner amongst the roller bladers, windskaters, and kite flyers.

For more serene surroundings for your alfresco feast, head south to café Manstein am Waldsee at art gallery Haus am Waldsee (p. 43). Homemade cakes and soups are on offer, as are the finest teas and coffees, which you can enjoy in the sculpture garden outside. Place your picnic rug by the lake or pick a table next to your favorite piece of work, such as the Flügelsäule by renowned post-war German sculptor Karl Hartung.

Berlin’s oldest public park, Volkspark Friedrichshain (Am Friedrichshain 1), also offers ample picnic opportunities. Lay out your blanket by the popular fairytale

fountain inspired by the Brothers Grimm, or climb to the top of the 78m (256ft) Mont Klamott, formed from post-WWII debris, for expansive views of the city. A visit to restaurant and beer garden Schoenbrunn (www.schoenbrunn.net) or one of the many kiosks and cafés in the surrounding streets will have you well supplied.

If taking your food afloat sounds more intriguing, then check out Grill-Boot (www. grill-boot.de), moored on the Havel River in Spandau, or bbq donut (www.bbq-donutberlin.de) on Tegeler See lake in Alt-Tegel, which features umbrellaed, barbecueequipped boats that accommodate up to 10 people. Whether you bring your own food or let the rental company provide the provisions, you’ll be the chef of your very own drifting kitchen.

MAIN IMAGE COURTESY OF PICNIC BERLIN. FRAME ©THINKSTOCK.

During the warmer months, Annabelle Mallia tries to spend as much time as possible outdoors; therefore every mealtime is picnic time.

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Matthew, Sam, Jake & Flo LONDON, AUTUMN 2015

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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS

DAPPER SATCHEL Bag by Cinque Mall of Berlin Leipziger Platz 12

BRIGHT BAUBLES Bracelet by Marc Cain Kurfürstendamm 69

PICNIC PERFECT Throw by Esprit Home www.esprit.de

BERLIN STYLE Sandal by Riccardo Cartillone BIKINI BERLIN Budapester Str. 38-50

RETRO GARB Tunic by UNIQLO Tauentzienstr. 7B/C

THE GREAT

Outdoors Savor the tail end of summer with Claudia Koksch's picks for a boho-chic outing – one last picnic, forest stroll, or outdoor concert.

FLEUR DE FRANCE Fragrance by Crabtree & Evelyn Friedrichstr. 68

STYLIN' SHADE Hat by Sisley Neue Schönhauser Str. 12

MOVEABLE FEAST Basket by Maisons du Monde www.maisonsdumonde.com

TRIPPY THREADS Jumpsuit by Missguided www.missguided.co.uk 18 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU J U LY G U2015 S T 2015

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BERLIN I Kurfürstendamm 178 - Tel. +49 30 8852545 I Friedrichstraße 184 - Tel. +49 30 20074945

FOR YOU, AN EXCLUSIVE PROMOTION AT OUR STORES IN BERLIN

10% DISCOUNT

Terms & Conditions - Upon presentation of this voucher, you will receive a 10% discount in our Berlin MaxMara stores.

- Tax refund is applicable on your discounted purchases.

- The 10% discount cannot be combined with other discounts.

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SHOPPING

superlative style

A

s Bloomingdale's is to New York, and Harrods to London, so is the Kaufhaus des Westens (p. 28) to Berlin. The Continent's largest department store attracts an impressive 40,000 visitors daily, luring in both visitors and locals with its lineup of designer labels and merchandise.

Each of the eight floors has its focus, starting with luxury and beauty on the ground level and working up through men's and women's fashion, accessories, and home goods, before reaching what is quite possibly the biggest draw of KaDeWe: gourmet food. But this is no mere supermarket of gastronomic goods.

Interspersed among the shelves of imported delicacies and epicurean kiosks

are miniature eateries offering everything hairstyling for women, a barbershop, and a from crêpes to the ever-popular oyster salon for the junior set. counter – not to mention a chocolate cake But the heart of KaDeWe, since its so sinful that it's earned a reputation of its opening in 1907, has always been style. own. On the top-most floor, in the Most any upscale brand imaginable – Prada, Wintergarten, a conservatoryChanel, Diane von "KaDeWe has become Furstenberg, and, of style restaurant offers expansive city views while course, German lines such almost synonymous you dine from the buffet. as Hugo Boss – can be with indulgence."

Because KaDeWe (whose found within the store's full name translates as the "department 60,000sq.m (646,000sq.ft), including store of the west") has become almost renowned local companies such as synonymous with indulgence, the Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur (p. 36), the department store has made pampering Berlin porcelain manufacturer founded in even simpler by providing a spa and hair 1763 by Frederick II of Prussia. salon onsite. The Alessandro Spa features manicures, pedicures, and advice on Follow KaDeWe on Instagram product application, while TRÖNDLE offers (@kadewe_berlin) for the latest arrivals.

Courtesy of KaDeWe

Jenna Rose Robbins strolled the aisles of the grande dame of German department stores, KaDeWe.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wHERETRaVELER.cOM

Shoes For La Dolce Vita Back in 1978, at the age of 18, Riccardo Cartillone experienced a surge of wanderlust and left his Sicilian home for pastures new. He landed in Berlin, where he recognized the lackluster offerings in footwear as a business opportunity, and almost a decade later opened the first of his 11 boutique shoe stores.

Now everyone visiting his shop can emerge suitably shod, whether in heels, sneakers, sandals, or boots, all made by small-scale designers back in Cartillone's homeland. Don't miss the selection of cute Majo purses.

BIKINI BERLIN, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030 26557078. www.riccardocartillone.com

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65.

Courtesy of riCCardo Cartillone

OPENINg HOuRS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 6 September, 4 October, 25 October, 6 December, 20 December.

Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ).

Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

TOuRIST INfORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Neues Kranzler Eck – Kurfürstendamm 22, Mon–Sat 9:30am–8pm.

Brandenburg gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

aCCessories AIGNER the Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather-accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics.

Choose between handbags, belts, and luggage, as well as gift items such as leather-encased cigarette lighters, corkscrews, keyrings, and backgammon boxes. Kurfürstendamm 50. t: 030.88683638. u uhlandstraße. B4

Coach Classic and instantly recognizable, the luxury brand specializes in leather accessories for both men and women, and is particularly famous for its bags, often inspired by vintage themes. www.coach.com. Galeries lafayette, friedrichstr.

76-78. u französische straße. E3

Falke Flagship Store this legwear shop caters to both men and women with an array of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. they also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. t: 030.88553565. u uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin. t: 030.20647995. u Mohrenstraße. E3

Michal Negrin the israeli designer has been creating a unique lifestyle look for 20 years, with an eye on fashion, jewelry, and home décor. inspired by vintage themes with romantic and Victorian elements, negrin's creations are made with swarovski crystals and luxe fabrics. www.michalnegrin.com. t: 030.20143466. Mall of Berlin. u Mohrenstraße. E3

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, including handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories, for the world’s most seasoned travelers. www.mcmworldwide.com.

Kurfürstendamm 186. t: 030.8811104. u uhlandstraße. B4

MYKITA Hand-assembled in their manufactory in Mitte, these designer glasses combine precision craftsmanship with new technologies. What started out in an old nursery (Kita) has now received world-wide acclaim. www.mykita.com. rosa-luxemburg-str. 6. t: 030.67308715. s+u alexanderplatz, u Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Beauty & Wellness Aveda Lifestyle Salon

Berlin’s exclusive, extravagant milliner offers handmade ladies’ hats for all occasions. Her mission is to invent a perfect frame to suit your individuality. www.fionabennett.de. Potsdamer str.

81-83. t: 030.28096330. u Kurfürstenstraße. E3

aveda’s objective is to respect the environment, a mission reflected in the herbal products they use and in their commitment to the well-being of others. a cup of tea welcomes you before you retreat to the spa or hairdresser. www.aveda.de.

Kurfürstendamm 26a. t: 030.88708790. u uhlandstraße, u Kurfürstendamm. C4

LIEBESKIND Berlin

Harry Lehmann

Fiona Bennett

High-quality leather accessories and shoes, from casual to classic, designed in Berlin. de.liebeskind-berlin.com. neue schönhauser str.

8. t: 030.24781600. u Weinmeisterstraße. F2; alexa Center, Grunerstr. 20. t: 030.27878090. s+u alexanderplatz; F3; Mall of Berlin. t: 030.20620210. u Mohrenstraße. E3

the grandson of this perfume shop’s founder continues an 80-year-long family tradition, mixing perfume from a spectrum of 50 scents kept in glass jars and siphoned into smaller bottles upon request. www.parfum-individual.de. Kantstr. 106.

Listings continue on page 27 www.wheretraveler.com 21

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IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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MCM

MICHAEL KORS

BIKINI BERLIN

German luxury purveyor MCM has launched its new Bionic Series, a collection of unisex backpacks and bags made of innovative lightweight material inspired by the interiorlight paneling on spaceships. Solid German craftsmanship combined with pioneering materials means the Bionic line is as waterresistant and durable as it is luxurious.

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

Kurfürstendamm 219.

T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

Germany's first concept mall brings select labels, unique concept and pop-up stores, and a plethora of dining opportunities to the heart of West Berlin. Do not miss the extraordinary rooftop terrace with a view of the monkeys and flamingos in the zoo.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

Budapester Str. 38-50. www.bikiniberlin.de

Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030 8811104 www.mcmworldwide.com 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU G U S T 2015

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* N o t wat e r p r o o f. Wat e r m ay p e n e t r at e t h e fa b r i c i f ex p o s e d t o wat e r fo r a p r o l o n g e d p e r i o d o f t i m e.

In its every detail, the new Ultra Light Down is made to keep water out. The fabric, down feather stuffing, and s t i t c h i ng are highly water repellent, and the zippers and shoulder areas are designed in a way that keeps water from seeping in. Light and warm, the new Ultra Light Down will help you enjoy those rainy days.

Men’s Parka and Women’s Short Coat now available!

Ultra Light Down Water Defender 79,90 € UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE • TAUENTzIENSTRASSE 7 B/C • 10789 BERLIN Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 10.07.2015, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstr. 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

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Friedrichstrasse

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Checkpoint Charlie

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SHOPPING AdVerToriAl

In Living Color

Sometimes, you just need a dash of color and whimsy in your life – like a ladybug bike bell, or an alligator toothbrush holder. For that, there’s French design emporium Pylones, which is marking its 30th birthday with a new store on Schloßstraße, its third in Berlin. Browse the wide selection of stationery, kitchenware, toys, gift ideas, and such practical necessities as key rings and phone cases, each brighter and more playful than the next.

Schlossstr. 32/32a. Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Kurfürstendamm 225. Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3. Open daily 10am-9pm.

T: 030.3243582. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. C4

Children Dolly Rocker Two fashion-designer moms hit upon the idea of transforming second-hand clothes and new materials into colorful one-offs for kids. Browse toys, décor, booties, and the ever-popular trousers with adjustable legs that grow as the child does.

Gärtnerstr. 25. T: 030.54719606.

U Samariterstraße. H3

Finkid The philosophy of this Finnish brand is unrestricted freedom of movement and the pleasure of discovery, a principle supported through simple design and functionality.

Characteristic of Finkid's style is the funny pointed-hat jacket with removable inner lining. www.finkid.de. leonhardtstr. 24. T: 030.31016350.

S Charlottenburg. A4

Lego Store Assembled lego models surround the entirety of this flagship store. hit the interactive play area, take a lego-themed class, or select individual lego bricks from a diverse range of colors and shapes at the pick-a-brick wall. www.lego.com. Tauentzienstr. 20. T: 030.21016222.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Steiff Galerie in Berlin Founded in 1880 by Margarete Steiff, this stuffed-animal company has developed into an international brand of quality cuddles. The bear Steiff created for U.S. president Theodore “Teddy” roosevelt in 1902 is the origin of the term "teddy bear." www.steiff.de. Kurfürstendamm 38–39. T: 030.88625006. U Uhlandstraße. B4

www.dsq206.com. Friedrichstr. 71.

T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3

Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2.

T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

depArTMenT SToreS Galeria Kaufhof

ConCepT SToreS

The former east German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Departmentstore Quartier 206

Galeries Lafayette

This multi-brand store inside the Quartier 206 luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers.

The Berlin branch of the exclusive parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors

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SHOPPING

The New Hub of Fashion

Opening to much fanfare last autumn, the Mall of Berlin (this page) is located on the very spot where Europe’s biggest and most luxurious department store, the Wertheim, stood during the Golden Twenties.

Reduced to rubble by WWII bombings, the area has been restored back to its former glory and is once again a major shopping, dining, and entertainment destination.

KaDeWe the biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. if you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. tauentzienstr. 21–24. t: 030.21210. u Wittenbergplatz. C4

alter spandauer Weg 1. t: 033234.9040. take the regional train to elstal. Off Map

Europa Center this shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. tauentzienstr. 9–12. t: 030.26497940. u Kurfürstendamm, u Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin

Malls & arCades

270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. leipziger Platz 12. u Mohrenstraße. E3

Alexa

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr.

20. t: 030.269340121. s+u alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN opened in april 2014, Bikini Berlin is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester str. 42-50. t: 030.55496425. s+u Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. shuttle bus from center on fri&sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–thu 10am–7pm, to 8pm fri and sat. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

this large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden. de. alte Potsdamer str. 7. t: 030.2559270. s+u Potsdamer Platz. D3

fasHion 0039 Italy the 0039 italy womenswear label stands for everything that makes the italian lifestyle so envied by the rest of the world: casual luxury and timeless style are the brand’s trademarks. Blouses are one of 0039 italy’s specialties, from airy, cottony ones in casual prints to 100% silk ones that embody classic elegance. expect a wide range of colors, prints, and flattering cuts. www.0039italy-shop.com. schlüterstr. 51. t: 030 88708483. s savignyplatz. C4

Airfield exclusive, extraordinary, personal. this austrian brand sells what they call “fashion made with passion,” blurring the boundaries between sporty and classy outfits and harmoniously combining

styles to create wearable garments for everyone, leaving lots of room for individual and personal interpretations. www.airfield.at. Mall of Berlin. u Mohrenstraße. E3

Armani Jeans delve into the world of italian fashion house Giorgio armani, with their stylish armani jeans and denim clothing for men and women. their first store in Berlin inside Mall of Berlin also carries the Giorgio armani, emporio armani, armani Collezioni, and ea fashion lines. www.armani.com.

Mall of Berlin. u Mohrenstraße. E3

Basler founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. from everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. second store at schlossstrasse 28. www.basler-fashion.com.

Kurfürstendamm 220. t: 030. 88472949. u Kurfürstendamm. C4

BCBGMAXAZRIA the global label makes everything from evening gowns to everyday apparel, all with an eye for what makes a woman look and feel good. on one of the city's top shopping streets. www.bcbg.com. schlüterstr. 39. t: 030.88624770. s savignyplatz, u uhlandstraße. B4

ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. the Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com.

Mulackstr. 1. t: 030 40054048. u Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Boggi Milano italian elegance for men. specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. t: 030.88921730. u uhlandstraße. B4

Courtesy of Mall of Berlin

rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. the food counter offers a wide range of french specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed french tea house Mariage frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. friedrichstr. 76–78. t: 030.209480. u französische straße. E3

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NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

Burberry This well-known British luxury fashion house carries classic clothing and fashion accessories.

Its distinctive tartan pattern is famous worldwide, and the company is best known for its trench coat, designed by Thomas Burberry. www.burberry.com.

Kurfürstendamm 183. T: 030.8854811.

U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA at Alexanderplatz OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Cinque

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Claudia Skoda She used to party with Bowie and Iggy Pop and transformed knitwear into high fashion. Skoda is one of the most famous Berlin designers and this beautiful new boutique houses her latest figurehugging ensembles. www.claudiaskoda.com.

Mulackstr. 8. See website for more locations.

T: 030.40041884. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Darklands Relocating to a new space every few seasons, Darklands is a nomadic, multi-branded men’s fashion store. It stocks clothing by leaders in German avant-garde design with a strong preference for the darker end of the color spectrum. It’s hard to find, so see website for instructions. www.darklandsberlin.com. Heidestr.

46–52, Building 7. S Hauptbahnhof. D2

www.alexacentre.com |

become a fan of ALEXA

Make it yours.

Evelin Brandt Evelin Brandt offers an urban, feminine look with a skilful mix of elegance, casualness and extravagance. The label’s distinctive designs highlight a woman’s individuality and personal charisma. Whether in beautiful jackets, flowing dresses, or accessories, customers will be strikingly well dressed. www.evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr.

153a. T: 030.2044444. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

G-Star RAW For more than 20 years, Dutch label G-Star RAW has been producing urban clothing inspired by military apparel made with raw denim. On the Ku’damm since 2013, the G-Star Raw flagship store responds to the label’s philosophy, combining their original designs and materials with friendly expert service. www.g-star.com. Kurfürstendamm 16. T: 030.88001973. U Uhlandstraße. B4

HUGO BOSS

Kaviar Gauche Signature pieces fuse dynamic patchwork cuts and femininity, first realized in their classic Lamella bag.

In the last few years, motivated by the success of their cocktail dresses, fashion designers Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Röhler also specialize in bridal wear. www.kaviargauche.com. Linienstr.

44. T: 030.28873562. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Lacoste Besides their classic polo shirt bedecked with that cute crocodile logo, this classic French sportswear

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25.

T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49.

T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

®

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SHOPPING label also creates classy, sport-chic fashion items and footwear for men, women and kids. kurfürstendamm 213. t: 030.88676945. u uhlandstraße. C4; friedrichstr. 158–164. t: 030.20058886. u französische straße. E3; Mall of berlin. t: 030.20614423. s+u Potsdamer Platz, u Mohrenstraße. E3

Liu Jo since 1995, this major italian fashion company has been aiming to bring out every woman’s natural beauty with elegance and quality. Contemporary and glamorous, practical yet professional, Liu Jo’s collection ranges from clothing to shoes to beachwear, including selections for men and children. www.liujo.com. Mall of berlin. t: 030.20624744. u Mohrenstraße. E3

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. friedrichstr. 61. see website for more locations. t: 030.20077219. u stadtmitte. E3

Michael Kors the new york-based designer Michael kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. kurfürstendamm 219. t: 030.81825760. u uhlandstraße. C4; rosenthaler str. 37. t: 030.24088690. u Weinmeisterstraße. F2

One Green Elephant this Japanese-inspired european brand brings innovative fashion for women and men. the everlasting go-to brand creates high-quality garments that are affordable and trendy.

www.onegreenelephant.com. Mall of berlin. t: 030.20216742. u Mohrenstraße. E3

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. there are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian dior, and dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. kurfürstendamm 190–192. t: 030.88487711. u Adenauerplatz, u uhlandstraße. B4

Pennyblack the popular italian brand dresses a woman for every hour of the day. the "black" label is for sophistication, the "grey" label for a more casual style, and the "pink" for romantic, special moments. www.pennyblack.com. Mall of berlin. t: 030.20644346. u Mohrenstraße. E4

Sportalm Kitzbühel sport meets fashion in a conglomeration of elegance and coolness. this Austrian brand specializes in clothes that enhance the sporty character of feminine elegance. www.sportalm.at.

Mall of berlin. t: 030.30329261. u Mohrenstraße. E3

Strellson this swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. t: 030.24724042. u Weinmeisterstraße. F2

UNIQLO originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. their berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. tauentzienstr. 7. t: 030 29028260. u Wittenbergplatz. C4

Wormland this men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. brands include Calvin klein, black kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of berlin. direct entrance from Voßstr. t: 030.229088200. u Mohrenstraße. E3

food & GourMet

Bags By Berlin Since its launch in 2003, LIEBESKIND Berlin (p. 21) has developed into the premier German fashion label for bags, shoes, and accessories. The brand still maintains its creative center right here in town, in eternally hip Kreuzberg, and has become the epitome of the fashionable urban lifestyle, with bold yet casual designs. The everpopular LIEBESKIND Vintage handbags, totes, and purses for women are characterized by a cool used look, while Männersache by Liebeskind provides laptop bags, totes, and weekenders for men.

Marheineke Markthalle one of key market halls over 100 years ago, Marheineke Markthalle continues to be a culinary highlight today. Meats, cheese, deli items, baked goods, fruit and vegetables, juices, and flowers – everything is of exquisite quality and much of it produced organically and regionally. rounding off the offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided

Courtesy of Liebeskind berLin

Fassbender & Rausch this is berlin’s undisputed temple of chocolate.

As if the longest chocolate counter in the world weren’t enough, the shop also features eyepopping displays of chocolate masterpieces, like a model of the reichstag made from 300 kg of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de.

Charlottenstr. 60. t: 20458443. u stadtmitte. E3

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LUXURY

BRands

FOR THE

AIGNER

LABEL LOVERS

www.aignermunich.com.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030 88683668.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52.

T: 030 88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

DESIGNER BRANDS AT 30-70% LESS.*

BOGGI MILANO

ALL YEAR ROUND.

www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196.

T: 030 88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165.

T: 030 20613890. U Französische str. E3

BOTTEGA VENETA www.bottegaveneta.com.

Kurfürstendamm 59-60.

T: 030 70550770. U adenauerplatz. B4

ENJOY AN EXTRA 10% OFF** DesignerOutletBerlin.com

BUCHERER

than RRP. **Show this page at the information desk to save an extra 10%.

*

www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45.

T: 030 2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030 8857920.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170.

T: 030 20615660. U stadtmitte. E3

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Client Client Outlet Outlet Ad Ad Type Type Publication Publication Size Size

www.zegna.com. KadeWe, Tauentzienstr.

21-24. T: 030 21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030 88923815. U Uhlandstr. B4

-- McAG McAG -- BERLIN BERLIN -- PRESS PRESS -- WHERE WHERE MAG MAG -- 118X124mm 118X124mm

Type Type Area Area Bleed Bleed Date Date File File Name Name

-- n/a n/a -- 3mm 3mm -- 30–01–2015 27.1.14

Initials Scale Effective DPI

-RS - RS - 100 - >300 >300

-- GL0846_0002_SS15-Where GL0846_0002_SS15-Wheremagazine_berlin_118x124mm_AW2 magazine_berlin_118x124mm_AW2

ETRO www.etro.com. Quartier 206 departmentstore. Friedrichstr. 71.

T: 030 20946120. U Französische straße E3

LONGCHAMP www.longchamp.com. Kurfürstendamm 42. T: 030 88712810. U Uhlandstr. B4

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler str. 38. T: 030 28493793. s Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030 55669010. U adenauerplatz. B4

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030 8826878. U adenauerplatz. B4

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

PAL ZILERI www.palzileri.com. Kurfürstendamm 175-176. T: 030 88910700.

U adenauerplatz. B4

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SHOPPING culinary tours that include a history of the city's market halls and samples from vendors. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15.

T: 030 61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

that add a whimsical spark to our daily lives. www. pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225. See website for more locations. T: 030.92362488.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Markthalle Neun Built in 1891 and one of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, Markthalle IX has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market every Friday and Saturday from 10am-6pm. See website for more events, like the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42–43.

T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

JEWELRY & WATCHES Bucherer

With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 176179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 45.

T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4 Kurfürstendamm has

HOME DÉCOR

been likened to Paris's Champs-Élysées for its

MEISSEN

Juwelier LorenZ

A family business since 1874, Founded over 300 years ago cafés and one of Berlin's most prestigious

by Augustus the Strong himself, couture. watchmakers and jewelers showcases this was Europe’s first porcelain Rolex, Cartier, Raymond Weil, and Tudor. manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for www.juwelier-lorenz.de. Rheinstr. 59. their range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, T: 030.8512020. U Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz. and figurines, all identified by the signature Off Map crossed swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Juweliere Leicht Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 21. T: 030.88625085.

This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and U Kurfürstendamm. B3 also carries luxurious brands like Bulgari, Utopia, Noor, and Meissen, as well as proprietary designs Pylones manufactured with gold and precious stones.

The French brand produces fun and colorful www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. household products, jewelry, accessories and T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 office trinkets – many with zoomorphic themes –

Niessing Each piece of Niessing jewelry tells a story about the jewelry house, in business since 1873, and comes with a personal touch from its creator. Lively pieces in gold, platinum, or stainless steel. www. niessingberlin.de. Stilwerk/Kantstr. 17.

T: 030. 31809075. S Savignyplatz. B4

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches. Also visit their Rolex boutique on the Ku’damm. www.wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215.

See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878.

U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82.

T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

SHOES Budapester Schuhe It is said that no wardrobe should be without a pair of Budapester shoes. The high-quality shoes with their unique features, such as the low heel, wingtips, and Lyra perforations, are an absolute classic. Many other high-end brands available. www.budapester.eu. Kurfürstendamm 43.

T: 030.88624206. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Buffalo Boots One of the most famous shoe brands in Europe carries pumps, a variety of boots, evening shoes, and handbags. The Berlin stores also offer the latest trends in men’s shoes. www.buffalo-shop.de.

Kantstr. 31. See website for locations.

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE

SHOES UK

US

CLOTHES Euro

UK

WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

XS S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42

MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

US

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

Liu Jo Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12

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F A L K E · P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY

STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 /13 . Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95

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Virtual berlin Want to enhance your holiday to the German capital? Jenna Rose Robbins discovered that there is indeed an app – or three – for that.

I

t's only natural that a city known as Silicon Allee has several Berlin-specific apps that enable visitors to upgrade their sightseeing experience, whether it be through virtual technologies or simply expanding the knowledge of their surroundings.

With the Stolpersteine app, visitors can learn more about the various "stumbling stones" found in some 5000 locations around the city. Each brass-covered sidewalk cobblestone serves as a memorial to a victim of the Holocaust, and the app allows you to locate specific stones, as well as find out additional biographical information about the individuals they honor.

Taking commemoration a step further is VirtualConcert (www.virtuelleskonzert. com), which will completely transform the way you experience the Holocaust Memorial (p. 36), located near the Brandenburg Gate. The app recreates a historic 2008 concert in which 24 musicians interspersed among the memorial's concrete blocks performed Harald Weiss' Vor Dem Verstummen . Now, with the help of your smartphone and the area's free WLAN, you too can wander the rows as the orchestra plays, the volume of each instrument rising as you approach the location where a musician once played, then falling as you meander down another lane.

TimeTraveler (www.timetraveler.berlin) allows you to "witness" historic events in the very locations where they occurred, enabling you to enrich a self-guided walking tour. Just hold up your smart device at select locations noted by the map's app, then watch as the past comes to life, the event footage projected onto the modern-day structures before you.

Depending on the site, you might watch East German soldier Conrad Schumann (p.

38) leap across a field of barbed wire to West Berlin, 77-year-old Frieda Schulz escape to freedom by dangling out her window into the safety of a fireman's net, or several other milestones from the Berlin of yesteryear.

StolperSteine: © Jenna roSe robbinS; VirtualConCert and app: CourteSy of dGMK deutSChe GeSellSChaft für MultiMediale KundenbindunGSSySteMe Mbh.

SIGHTSEEING

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maJor sigHts The “Alex” TV Tower the 368m- (1027ft)-high tV tower of alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of berlin ever since it was built by the gdr in 1969. the giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. the elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. arrive early to avoid lines. daily 9am–midnight (from 10am nov–feb). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. panoramastr. 1a. t: 030.24757537. s+u alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom the city’s neo-renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWii damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the dom is also an important concert venue. mon– sun 9am–8pm (until 7pm in winter). €7/4. www.berlinerdom.de. am lustgarten. t: 030.20269119. s Hackescher markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE the definitive berlin icon, Carl gotthard langhans’ neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the third reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. formerly behind gdr borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, new year’s eve parties, and tourist snapshots. s+u brandenburger tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace

ClassiC Cars: Courtesy of ClassiC remise; HeliCopter: HusbCHrauberflug.de.

stolpersteine: © Jenna rose robbins; VirtualConCert and app: Courtesy of dgmK deutsCHe gesellsCHaft für multimediale Kundenbindungssysteme mbH.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM

Haus der Kulturen der Welt dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals due to its curvy shape, the building that is now home to the House of the Cultures of the World was originally built as a congress hall in 1956 but quickly became a symbol of Western freedom and creativity, in contrast to east german architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm, and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. daily 10am–7pm. prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-foster-dulles-allee 10. t: 030.397870. u bundestag. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche the church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. the old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. daily 9am–6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. breitscheidplatz. t: 030.2185023. u Zoologischer garten, u Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue MUST SEE before the war, this moorish-byzantinestyle synagogue was berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. the synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while allied bombs gave it the coup de grâce in 1943. the exotic gold dome is today the icon of berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. museum: €3.50/3. dome €2/1.50. under-6s free. www.cjudaicum.de. oranienburgerstr. 28-30. t: 030.88028300. s oranienburger straße, s Hackescher markt. E2

the summer home of sophie Charlotte, wife of King friedrich i of prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Nikolaiviertel and Hohenzollern family. begun Knoblauchhaus in 1695, the luxury baroque the nikolaiviertel is where complex consists of a berlin was born, and main building with a the area still retains central cupola and its ancient character, two side wings, added although most of the in later years, that buildings in the narrow enclose a courtyard. medieval alleys are the picturesque park replicas of destroyed surrounding the castle originals that dated includes a formal frenchback to the 1200s. the style garden, english late-gothic nikolaikirche, garden with pond and berlin’s oldest surviving statues, belvedere, and building, is now a mausoleum. the castle At Classic Remise Berlin, (Wiebestr. 36-37, museum. other points hosts temporary art www.remise.de) you can take a guided of interest include the and history exhibitions. tour through gorgeous vintage cars, peek ephraim palais museum tue–sun 10am–6pm in on one of the specialist restoration and the biedermeier(until 5pm in winter). garages, or have a nosh at the restaurant style Knoblauchhaus, a €12/8. www.spsg.de. and beer garden.

19th-century middlespandauer damm 20-24. class townhouse that t: 030.9694200. escaped WWii damage. Knoblauch Haus: tue–sun u sophie-Charlotte-platz. A3 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. poststr. 23. t: 030.240020171. s+u alexanderplatz. F3 Hackesche Höfe an intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century german Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz in 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of secessionist style. the first courtyard is entirely a 100m-high platform with one of the best views decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in in berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the geometric designs, while the apartment buildings café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. daily and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, 10am–7:30pm (until 6pm nov–mar). €6.50/5. shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff tower, both familiar and fascinating. rosenthaler str. 40potsdamer platz 1. s potsdamer platz. D3 41. s Hackescher markt. E2/F2

Flying High Take to the sky for a completely different perspective of Berlin’s sights.

Hubschrauberflug.de offers a variety of helicopter tours, from a 15-minute Berlin Skyline Flight along the Wall to a 60-minute aerial experience where, with help from the pilot, you can shape the route yourself. Make your aerial affair even more delectable with a package that includes soaring over the Brandenburg countryside to the Resort A-ROSA Scharmützelsee for a lakeside fine-dining experience. All packages leave from Berlin Schönefeld Airport and include a champagne reception, shuttle in a Lincoln stretch limousine to the helicopter pad, and souvenir flight certificate. T: 0800 0700 130. www.hubschrauberflug.de

Philharmonie MUST SEE the seat of the world-famous berliner philharmoniker orchestra is one of germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. the exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. see entertainment section for full program. guided tours offered daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbertvon-Karajan-str. 1. t: 030.254888156. s+u potsdamer platz, u mendelssohn bartholdy park. D3

Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center before the war, potsdamer platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and www.wheretraveler.com 35

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SIGHTSEEING cafés. WWii bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the sony building with its central plaza; Daimler city, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim center building. s+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE in the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist christo, and renovated by Lord norman Foster. climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website. Audio tours available. www. bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. The terrace offers great vistas. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (until 7 on

weekends). Winter 10am–5pm (until 5:30pm on weekends). €3/2. Großer stern 1. T: 030.3912961.

U hansaplatz. C3/D3

hisToRic siTEs Asisi’s Wall Panorama

Checkpoint Charlie During the cold War, checkpoint charlie was the main gateway between East and West. shortly after the Wall went up, Us and soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U kochstraße, U stadtmitte. E3/E4

Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided East Side Gallery Berlin, presenting everyday life against the While West Berliners loved to express backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary their creativity by drawing graffiti and day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was painting on the Wall, East Berliners to show how the population came were never allowed to use the to terms with the situation, and the dividing structure as a canvas. To A replica of Europe's first result gives onlookers a glimpse of make up for all the artless years, traffic light (installed in East German life. Daily 10am–7pm. artists from 21 countries were called 1924) still stands in €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205.

Potsdamer Platz. upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of T: 0341.3555340. U kochstraße. E3/E4 the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the Berlin Wall Documentation East side Gallery. Mühlenstr. s+U Warschauer Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving straße, s ostbahnhof. G4 stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city Gleis 17 where its impact was particularly dramatic, then Between 1941 and 1945, 50,000 Berlin Jews delve into its storied history at the documentation were packed into the freight and cattle cars of center. Documents and original radio broadcasts 186 trains leaving from Track 17 of Grunewald from both East and West chronicle one of station, destined for the concentration camps and Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds ghettos of Auschwitz, Theresienstadt, Riga, and and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; Lodz. The track is no longer in use, but a plaque documentation center: Tue–sun 10am–6pm. Free. there commemorates the tragic events. The small www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer square in front of the s-Bahn station also features str. 111. T: 030.467986666. U Bernauer straße. E2 sculptures and installations dedicated to the deportees. s Grunewald. Off Map

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the shoah is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution.

Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. cora-Berliner straße.

T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. karl-Marx-Allee.

U Weberwiese, U strausberger Platz. F3/G3

The lakes around Berlin are stunning, but if you’re missing the briny blue, then follow other Berliners as they make the roughly three-hour drive north to the popular holiday regions on the Baltic Sea. The first port of call (before you leave the mainland) is Stralsund, with its Hanseatic towns and Gothic historic center, which has earned itself a UNESCO World Heritage classification. A short trip on the ferry or over the bridge will take you to Germany’s largest island, Rügen, renowned for its seaside resorts, sleepy fishing villages, and white chalk cliffs made famous in paintings by Caspar David Friedrich. Another beloved stop is the island of Usedom, known for its wellness hotels, long sandy beaches, and piers stretching far out into the water. Return to Berlin refreshed and carrying memories of wind, waves, and salty sea spray.

once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today known as kPM Berlin, the company still makes exquisite, worldrenowned tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, enjoy the café, and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com.

Wegelystr. 1. T: 030.390090. s Tiergarten. C3

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately run exhibit explores the crafty inventions used by East Germans to escape East

© ThinksTock

Down By The Sea

KPM Berlin

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Celestial Sightings Of Berlin’s three observatories, the oldest and largest is the Archenhold Observatory (Alt-Treptow 1, www.sdtb.de), home to the “sky cannon,” the longest moveable refracting telescope on the planet. Take photos of the starry night with an astrograph, or view planets, binary stars, and the moon through a 500mm reflecting telescope. At the Wilhelm-Foerster-Sternwarte (Munsterdamm 90, www.planetarium-berlin.de), you can explore and learn about the universe using either a 100-year-old refracting telescope or Berlin’s most light-sensitive reflecting telescope. When it’s raining, the connected planetarium opens up its magnificent artificial night sky.

Happy stargazing! (Note: The Zeiss-Großplanetarium, the city’s third observatory, is closed for modernization until 2016.)

Germany, including Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot-air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts.

Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45.

T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Built in 1936 by prisoners as a model concentration camp, Sachsenhausen saw mainly political prisoners in its first years, while Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” arrived a few years later. The iron gate bears the infamous “Arbeit macht frei” sign, and the barracks host exhibitions about extermination methods, the daily life of prisoners, and the medical experiments performed on them. Daily 8:30am–6pm (until 4:30pm mid-Oct–mid-March). Museums and exhibitions closed Mondays. Free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200.

S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Stasi Prison

© WFS

MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than

20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to

inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm. €5/2.50. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230.

S landsberger allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Open Tue–Fri 9am–7pm, until 6pm on Sat and Sun. Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

KIDS & FaMIlIES Berlin Dungeon

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears)

Much like the london Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (until 5pm on winter weekdays. Closed 24 Dec). €20/16 (discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by an adult. Combined legoland, Madame Tussauds, and Sea life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2.

S Hackescher Markt. F3

Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts

MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6pm.

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. a preserved segment of the Berlin Wall runs along exhibition grounds. Daily 10am–8pm.

Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße, S+U Potsdamer Platz. E4

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium

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SIGHTSEEING

The Great Escapes Almost as soon as the Wall went up in 1961, East Berlin residents were plotting ways to break free and reunite with their loved ones on the other side. Visit these sites where a few brave souls successfully made the journey to freedom.

Zoo or aquarium: €13/6.50, under-5s free. combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: €20/10. www. aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de. hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. s+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org. königinLuise-str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100. s Botanischer Garten. Off Map

Children’s Museum Labyrinth

www.domaenedahlem.de. königin-Luise-str. 49.

T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Legoland Discovery Center Everything is built with the famous plastic bricks at this indoor Lego wonderland. There are videos explaining how Lego is made, a Lego factory, a 4D cinema with tactile effects, a Duplo village for the very little ones, and a medieval world with knights and dragons. kids can build their own structures and try them out at the test center. Daily 10am– 6pm (last admission 5pm) except 24 Dec. €16 (from €8 if you book online, under-3s free). combined Berlin Dungeon, Madame Tussauds, and sea Life tickets available. www.legolanddiscoverycentre. de. Potsdamer str. 4. T: 01806.66690110. s+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

one of Berlin’s two children’s museums, the Madame Tussauds venues offers two floors of activity stations on the have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, theme of construction. Pleasant outdoor area for Albert Einstein, one Direction, or a host of the warmer days. open Mo-Fri 9am-6pm, other famous names in entertainment and sat 1–6pm, sun 11–6pm. €4.50 for politics. And, yes, there's even a wax all over-3s (3.50 on Fridays). www.

Adolf hitler, depicted as a little man labyrinth-kindermuseum.de. osloer standing in despair in his bunker str. 12. T: 030.800931150. U osloer during his final days. The legendary The highest point in straße then tram. Off Map wax museum also has a section central Berlin is in the explaining how the figures are made.

Viktoriapark in Children’s Museum MachMit Daily 10am–7pm (until 9pm in Aug, Kreuzberg at 66m MUST SEE The hands-on children’s (217ft). closed 24 Dec). €21/16, discounts if you museum offers a climbing structure, a book online. combined Berlin Dungeon, maze, a soap-making workshop, a cinema, Legoland, and sea Life tickets available. and lots of activities to encourage discovery www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74.

Tue–sun 10am–6pm. €5.50 for all through playing. s+U Brandenburger Tor. E3 over-3s. www.machmitmuseum.de. senefelderstr.

Computer Game Museum

CheCkPoiNT ChArLie Even at one of the most guarded crossings, heinz Meixner was able to speed through, along with his girlfriend and, hidden in the trunk, his future mother-in-law. Meixner rented a convertible, removed the windshield, and let enough air out of the tires so that when he hit the gas, all he had to do was duck and go right under and through the barrier.

ALBreChTShoF STATioN Train engineer harry Deterling conducted some 25 people to freedom, including seven of his own family members, when he drove a train straight through the Berlin Wall and into spandau.

ruPPiNer STrASSe AND BerNAuer STrASSe conrad schumann's flight to West Berlin is so famous that there's a statue of him on Brunnenstraße a few blocks south of where the escape took place. The Wall wasn't yet fully built when the East German soldier fled his post, but he was the first to make it across, and the photo of him in mid-leap over barbed wire has become iconic of the cold War era.

over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games, from the 1959 Brown Box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games. Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www. computerspielemuseum.de. karl-Marx-Allee 93a.

T: 030.60988577. U Weberwiese. G3

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U kochstraße, U stadtmitte. E4

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon– Fri 9am–5:30pm, sat–sun 10am–6pm. €6/3.50. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Domäne Dahlem City Farm A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a farmers’ market on saturday mornings. see website for special events.

Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50.

Museum für Naturkunde home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and taxidermy and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, sat–sun 10am–6pm. €6/3.50. www. naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. invalidenstr. 43.

T: 030.20938591. U naturkundemuseum. E2

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. combined Berlin Dungeon, Legoland, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. spandauer str. 3. s hackescher Markt, s+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Tempelhof Airport Park MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. s Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map

Tiergarten Park created as hunting grounds for the Electors of Brandenburg, the park we know today was designed in the early 1800s by landscape architect Peter Joseph Lenné and includes a pond with boat

© ThinksTock

5/6. T: 030.74778200. s Prenzlauer Allee. F1

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SIGHTSEEING rentals and a café, as well as many pleasant trails to explore. the park also houses a zoo, a number of embassies, and the schloss Bellevue, the residence of the President of Germany. s tiergarten, s Bellevue. C3, D3

PotsdaM Biosphäre Potsdam this tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. daily Mon–fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-Halemannallee 99. t: 0331.550740. tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg in the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the nazi regime to produce political propaganda. today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular tv characters. daily 10am–6pm from april to october, closed Mon in May and on Mon and tues in september, on 6 and 13 october. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de.

Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. t: 0331.7212750. s Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Potsdam and Sanssouci MUST SEE the sumptuous rococo castle of Potsdam's sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by frederick the Great, who wanted “a place to be without cares.” the king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloss placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober new Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. the park and its palaces have been a unesCo World Heritage site since 1990. daily 10am–6pm (until 5pm in winter).

Closed Mon. €15/11. www.spsg.de. an der orangerie 1, Potsdam. t: 0331.9694200. s Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

river triPs Exclusiv Yachtcharter this boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusivyachtcharter.de. t: 030.43666836.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. t: 030.5363600.

tours & Guided Walks Berlinagenten these luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. offerings include a “Pimp Me up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. from €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer str. 4. t: 030.43720701.

Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a david Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. from €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) since 1997, the Berlin underworlds association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWii bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. from €10. www.berlinerunterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. t: 030.49910517.

Thank you for keeping Berlin clean

Courtesy of Gruen-Berlin.de

Please make sure you use our 22.000 waste baskets

www.BSR.de/sauber

You are leaving the dirty sector

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A Presentation With Pedigree Devoted dog-lover Caroline Evans previews an exhibition about our beloved four-legged friends.

A

s humankind’s most faithful companions, our canine friends have been represented in many a piece of art, a number of which are on display at Gone to the Dogs! (Wir kommen auf der Hund!), the summer show at the Museum of Prints and Drawings (Kupferstichkabinett, p. 41).

Drawing from its comprehensive collection of European art from the Middle Ages to the current day, the Kupferstichkabinett presents more than 100 works by such renowned artists as Rembrandt, Otto Dix, Agostino Carracci, and Dieter Roth.

In their own distinctive styles, each artist demonstrates mastery in rendering the texture of fur and depicting the muscular form of dogs

in motion, bringing every breed to life, from the sleek and slender greyhound to playful spaniels. In addition to being depicted as cuddly creatures and faithful companions, man’s best friend is also portrayed in a 10-century array of characters and roles, from watchdogs and working hounds to sheepherders and royal hunting attendants.

Dogs frolic in idyll with Adam and Eve, while an overt anti-religious statement by Rembrandt shows a mutt defiling a biblical scene. In other instances, dogs are depicted as strays wandering the streets, some even mutating

into wild beasts and monsters. There are even examples of the subgenre of portraiture known as the “dog portrait.”

The collection of works, which includes oil and watercolor paintings, drawings, sketches, and prints, is thematically diverse enough that even the canine-adverse – and, in particular, those with a penchant for irony and irreverence – will find something of interest. But it is, of course, devoted dog-lovers who will most enjoy the exhibition.

“The exhibit presents more than 100 works by artists such as Rembrandt.“

Until 20 September.

© Staatliche MuSeen zu Berlin, KupferStichKaBinett, Junge Mit hund By OttO Brandt, phOtO By VOlKer-h. Schneider; © Staatliche MuSeen zu Berlin, KupferStichKaBinett, daMe Mit hund By ernSt ludwig Kirchner, phOtO By Jörg p. anderS.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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MuseuMs Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures and vases, and a number of etruscan and Roman archeological finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (until 8pm Thu), sat–sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.266424242. s+u Friedrichstraße, s Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, models, objects, and projects illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 21 Sep: Dialogues: Photographs by Hélène Binet: the blackand-white world of the renowned architecture photographer. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. €7/4, Wed– Fri €6/3. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14.

T: 030.25400278. u Nollendorfplatz. D4

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former east Germany at this hands-on museum. everyday objects, closets filled with GDR fashion, and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–sun 10am–8pm, sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-str. 1 (in front of the Berliner Dom).

T: 030.847123731. s Hackescher Markt, s+u Alexanderplatz. E3

Greenaway. Multimedia art and films of the two artists. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. u Hallesches Tor, u Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war, which she experienced directly after losing both her son and grandson in battle. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24.

T: 030.8825210. u uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in english as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 20 Sep: Gone to the Dogs! This year’s summer exhibition focuses on the relationship between human and canine with a varied selection of paintings and artworks. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, sat–sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. s+u Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. To 25 Oct: Berlin 1945/46

focuses on the harsh effects WWII had on Germany immediately after the war as well as those who rebuilt Berlin. Tue–sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free, free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. u Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as a series of German cities depicted between the windows and mosaics of allegorical figures. To 8 Aug: Tino Sehgal explores the work of the Berlin-based BritishGerman artist. To 23 Aug: Fassbinder – NOW provides new impetus to engage with one of Germany’s most significant directors. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary depending on exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7.

T: 030.254860. u Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, sat–sun 10am–7pm. €14/9. www.memu.berlin.

Panoramaplatz 1. s+u Alexanderplatz. F3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones of German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 20 Sep: Layers of Time examines the changes and influence of the Berlin Zeughaus throughout history. To 25 Oct: 1945–Defeat. Liberation. New Beginning exposes the efforts of various european nations made to rebuilding and recovering from WWII. To 1 Dec: Homosexuality_ies. The past 150 years of queer history in Germany. To 3 Jan: Unification explores the challenges and experiences faced by the newly-unified Germany after the fall of the Wall.

Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. s+u Friedrichstraße. E3

The Gay Museum One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 1 Dec: Homosexuality_ies focuses on two centuries of queer history in Germany. Joint exhibition with Deutsches Historisches Museum.

Mon, Wed–Fri, sun 2–6pm, sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73.

T: 030.69599050. u Nollendorfplatz. D4 © Nihad NiNo Pusija

© staatliche MuseeN zu BerliN, KuPferstichKaBiNett, juNge Mit huNd By otto BraNdt, Photo By VolKer-h. schNeider; © staatliche MuseeN zu BerliN, KuPferstichKaBiNett, daMe Mit huNd By erNst ludwig KirchNer, Photo By jörg P. aNders.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel is shaped as a deconstructed star of David. Walk through millennia of German Jewish history and discover the alternating glories and persecutions of this community. To 13 Sep: Gehorsam: An Exhibition of the Works by Saskia Boddeke and Peter

The Bursting Of Boundaries Transformed into an exhibition space after WWII, the Haus am Waldsee (p. 43) features works from contemporary artists year-round. The current focus is the interactive and multimedia exhibition titled Everything We Possess Possesses Us, Too from performance artist Nezaket Ekici. Born in Turkey and raised in Germany, Ekici challenges and explores the physical limitations of art by transforming and using her body as a medium and integral part of her projects or installations. Aside from pushing the tangible boundaries of art, Ekici employs the use of symbolic costuming, questioning traditions and religious values, and thereby embodying the multicultural and progressive society of today.

Until Aug 16.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside a neo-Baroque building.

Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. To 23 Aug: Dialogue With Time interactively explores our future in relation to time and aging. Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16.

T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3

Museum of Photography All types of photography, from the 19th century to

The World According To Arp A pioneer of abstract art, FrenchGerman artist Hans Arp was one of the most influential artists of the 20th century and is best known for his undulating, sinuous shapes made with unconventional materials and techniques. Inspired by forms found in nature, which he believed followed the same development patterns as art, Arp started his career with collages, which became increasingly three-dimensional over time, and later moved on to reliefs and sculptures. Until 11 October at the Georg-Kolbe-Museum (p. 43), the exhibition Hans Arp, The Navel Of The Avant-Garde explores the artist’s career through his visual and written works, including the poems and essays that accompanied his artistic development.

the present, are on exhibit at this comprehensive museum, housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps. The diverse exhibitions are curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection, while the lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 2 Aug: Willy Maywald: Portraits, Fashion, Photoreports. Works from 1930-1960s by one of Paris’ most important photographers. To 2 Aug: Exposure features works by students of Berlin’s University of the Arts, focusing on the juxtaposition of presentation within the setting of the museum. To 15 Nov: Newton. Horvat. Brodziak. Newton’s works are shown in conjunction with those of fashion and portrait photographers Frank Horvat and Szymon Brodziak. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer garten. C3–C4

and learn about spying techniques, including cameras hidden inside watering cans and fake trees. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am– 6pm. €6/4.50. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr.

103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

ART gALLeRieS Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10.

T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Alte Nationalgalerie

A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. german artists, such as the Romantics Caspar David Friedrich, Karl Friedrich Schinkel, and Carl Blechen, are well represented, while the second Museum The Kennedys floor features French impressionists, including When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” Monet, Degas, Renoir, and Cézanne. To 20 Sep: speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Impressionism–Expressionism: Turning Point In Art. The Berlin’s favorite US president. This museum, exhibition traces the similarities and differences a tribute to him and his family, features films, between the two movements and examines their photographs, and even comic books that tell us enduring popularity. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm about his visit to Berlin, his assassination, (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. and his children. To 6 Sep: Thomas €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum Billhardt · Vietnam explores the range only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. of moments of the Vietnam War 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U along with the politics behind his Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Russia has held parts of photography. Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. the Pergamon’s collection Markt. E3 €5/2.50. www.thekennedys.de. since the end of WWII, Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.20653570.

C/O Berlin despite a treaty to S Oranienburger Straße. E2 After being evicted from its return them. previous location in Mitte, the C/O Neues Museum Berlin center for contemporary art and MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of photography has finally reopened in the Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction.

Amerika Haus, which housed the American library examine a world-famous egyptian collection that during the Cold War era. To 16 Aug: Sebastiao includes many important papyruses, while Salgado: Genesis is a homage to the blue planet: hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. archaic volcanic landscapes, Arctic ice masses, Badly damaged during WWii and left abandoned meandering river canyons, mountain chians until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To enveloped in mist, and endless sand dunes. From 16 Nov: Egypt’s Emergence Into History takes a look at the origins of early egyptian culture, focusing on 22 Aug: Rudi Meisel. Compatriots 1977-1987 Two Germanys. The underlying similarities between the mastery of mediums such as stone and ivory. the then-firmly established east and the West are Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun documented in Meisel’s inquisitive photography.

10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de.

From 22 Aug: Eyes Wide Open! highlights more Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U than 300 works by renowned Leica photographers Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 and how the Leica influenced 20th century Pergamon Museum photography. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.coOne of Berlin’s main attractions houses the berlin.org. Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. outcome of germany’s early-20th-century S+U Zoologischer garten. C4 archeology excavations. The imposing ishtar gate Dalí Berlin of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for The permanent exhibit features more than the eyes, as are the Market gate from Myletus, the 400 works, most from private collections, by reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new world. The altar room will be closed for restoration works until the end of 2019. To 18 Oct: Aatifi – News perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www.daliberlin.

From Afghanistan explores artist Aatifi’s modified de. Leipziger Platz 7. T: 0700.3254237546 (toll and aesthetically reduced calligraphy in relation to number). U Potsdamer Platz. D3 the culturally-rich islamic world. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6.

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

With an emphasis on paper and photography, U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3 the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. every year, the Stasi Museum bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing The gDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, an international prize. To 30 Aug: Photo-Poetics has been described as one of the most repressive explores the self-reflective nature of still-life intelligence and secret police agencies to have photography. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. ever existed. explore the agency’s headquarters

Courtesy of GeorG-Kolbe-MuseuM

Museum of Communication

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MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 27 Sep: Spitting Images follows the inspiration and execution of Anton van Dyck’s portrait prints. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 11 Oct: Hans Arp. The Navel of Avant-Garde revisits the innovation and newly-discovered works of the radical co-founder of Dadasim, Hans Arp. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de.

Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144.

S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof CL904 MUST SEE The permanent collection of this

former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 16 Aug: And Away With the Minutes: Dieter Roth and Music shows Roth’s music-related art projects for the first time. To mid-Aug: Official Welcome takes seven artists concerned with the exploration of a specific medium, from photography to performance and assemblage. To 23 Aug: Drawing Double Reversal.

First exhibition to focus on the graphic oeuvre of Elaine Sturtevant. To 31 Aug: A-Z. The Marzona Collection. A celebration of the conceptual art of

Seeing Double

Artists create works to interpret the world around us, but the reinterpretation and appropriation of existing artworks furthers the boundaries of art. Enter Elaine Sturtevant, known best for duplicating and reinterpreting original works by Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp. Sturtevant.

Drawing Double Reversal, a new exhibition at the Hamburger Bahnhof (this page), showcases the influential graphical work of Sturtevant and the significance of appropriation in cultivating the development of pop art.

Take a walk though

Berlin’s history

Until 23 August.

the ‘60s and ‘70s. To 6 Sep: Moby Dick. Installations

by Michael Beutler, occupying and transforming spaces through cultural intervention. To 27 Sep: Black Mountain: An Interdisciplinary Experiment explores the legendary American arts college, which existed 1933-1957 near Asheville, North Carolina. To 11 Oct: Two by Two. The first joint exhibition of New York-based post-Abstract Expressionists Mary Heilmann and David Reed.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de.

Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multisensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. To 16 Aug: Nezaket Ekici – Everything We Own Owns Us. Performance artist Ekici pushes the boundaries of art by using her mody as a medium. Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30.

T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery

Johns flaG by elaine sturtevant, © estate sturtevant, Paris, Courtesy Galerie thaddeus roPaC, Paris/salzburG

Courtesy of GeorG-Kolbe-MuseuM

www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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Photo-Poetics: An Anthology 10.7.– 30.8.

Unter den Linden 13/15, Berlin 10 am – 8 pm, Mondays admission free; deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.com Organized by

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Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Hollywood’s Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to Berlin, the city in which he was born in 1920. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

The Museum of Photography occupies the two upper floors of the building. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmut-newton.de.

Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the avant-garde German Secessionist movement.

Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his upper-floor studio. To 10 Aug: Max Liebermann and Vincent Van Gogh. The exhibition draws astonishing parallels between the work the two artists produced in the Netherlands between 1882 and 1885. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3.

T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Extended in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Henri Matisse, Paul Klee, Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Cézanne, and many more. Set aside time to visit the outdoor sculpture garden. Ticket includes entrance to the Sammlung ScharfGerstenberg. To 20 Sep: Sideways - Henri Laurens/ Pablo Picasso. For the third installment of the exhibition, works are paired together to encourage new interpretations of the respective artists’ works focusing on pregnancy. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

A world of exhibitions

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi-bunker-turned-art-gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it with contemporary works by artists such as Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12/6. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20.

T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3 68 projects, to 5 Sep: Queertopia: It Takes A Village. Fasanenstr. 68. www.68projects.com.

CWC Gallery, to 5 Sep: Breaking the Boundaries: Photography from Gilbert & George, A. Katz, R. Longo, H. Ritts, St. Schapiro, M. Schoeller and Chr. Tagliavini. Auguststr. 11-13. www.camerawork. de. Galerie Poll, from 19 Sep to 21 Nov: Die Cyborgs und ihre Spuren 1968-1983: Bettina von Arnim.

Painting, drawing. Anna-Louisa-Karsch-Str. 9. www.poll-berlin.de. Janinebeangallery, to 22 Aug: The gallery’s summer. Painting, drawing, sculpture. Torstr. 154. www.janinebeangallery. com. TVDART Galerie, to 31 Aug: Contemporary Realism: A. Afanasjeva, A. Baklane, S. Galdetska, P. Postazs, E. Tarasenko, V. Zarina, K. Zarins. Painting.

Schlüterstr. 54. www.tvdart-galerie.de.

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Commercial Galleries

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dining en Plein Air There's nothing like a little fresh air to whet one's appetite, as Hilda Hoy discovered in her exploration of the city's dining scene.

F

ew cities know how to embrace summer quite like Berlin does. The wealth of alfresco dining options is a testament to the city's love of the season, and practically every restaurant with enough space to do so will set up tables outside to allow guests to enjoy the fresh air and people-watch as they dine.

A few standouts deserve special mention, including Katz Orange (Bergstr. 22, www. katzorange.com). Tucked into a peaceful back courtyard in Mitte, this refined dining spot is housed in a 19th-century red-brick brewery, with a few prime outside tables ringed by glowing lanterns and lush planter boxes. Both the décor and the cuisine embody casual chic, with farm-to-table,

organic dishes like regional game meat cooked sous vide until perfectly tender.

At Pantry (Friedrichstr. 120, www. pantry-berlin.com), a private terrace is shielded from the hubbub of Friedrichstraße to provide shaded seclusion in which to enjoy the cuisine of modern European fusion with generous Spanish and Asian influences. Think top-quality steaks, seared Scottish salmon tataki, or tangy octopus salad with pomelo.

Enjoy an outdoor brunch at Nola’s am Weinberg (Veteranenstr. 9, www.nolas.de), with an expansive curved terrace overlooking the popular Weinbergspark.

After feasting on one of Nola’s generous breakfast platters of Swiss cheeses, meats,

and fresh bread, you can join the Mitte hipsters and laze around on the park’s green slopes.

A bit further south, the scenic PaulLincke-Ufer embankment of the Landwehr Canal is a popular summer spot for strolling, sunbathing, and, of course, eating. Slurp on Japanese ramen noodles and nibble on green tea ice cream on the bustling front terrace of Cocolo (Paul-Lincke-Ufer 39, www.kuchi.de). Or for a dinner of unrivalled perfection, try Michelin-starred Horváth (p.

47). The handful of outside tables overlooking the canal bridge are an idyllic spot to enjoy chef Sebastian Frank’s much-lauded and highly creative masterpieces.

NOLA: COurtesy Of NOLA's AM WeINBerG; red ChAIrs: COurtesy Of PANtry; dIsh ANd COurtyArd: COurtesy Of KAtz OrANGe.

DINING

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FINE DINING 5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€–€€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco. com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

a.choice Part of the andel’s Hotel, a.choice brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106.

T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET

Facil

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234.

S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

First Floor Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45.

T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, L, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com.

Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363.

U Französische Straße. E3

Frühsammers Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a quiet, green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. €€€. Thu–Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammersrestaurant.de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030.89738628.

S Hohenzollerndamm. A5

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank has built himself a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

NOLA: COURTESY OF NOLA'S AM WEINBERG; RED CHAIRS: COURTESY OF PANTRY; DISH AND COURTYARD: COURTESY OF KATZ ORANGE.

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

®

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 47

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DINING schlegelstr. 26c. t: 030.30881214. u Naturkundemuseum, s Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. tue–sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. t: 030.24628760. u oranienburger tor. E4

Tim Raue from his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, tim raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the far east for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. tue– sun l&D. www.tim-raue.com. rudi-Dutschke-str.

26. t: 030.25937930. u Kochstraße. E4

Vau

Wine & Dine Just as you can’t always judge a book by its cover, you can’t always judge a restaurant by the sign hanging out front. A short block south of bustling Rosenthaler Platz in the heart of Mitte, Muret la Barba announces itself with a plain red “Wein” on its façade. And although the shop does sell great Italian wines sourced from across the boot-shaped country, it’s also so much more than a wine store. Every day, the kitchen whips up simple but top-quality lunches and dinners, featuring homemade pastas, tasty risottos, and antipasti and salads with fresh buffalo mozzarella, as well as a few meat and fish dishes. The ever-changing menu takes advantage of seasonal produce and gourmet cheeses and charcuterie imported from – where else? – Italy. The staff will be happy to recommend a wine off the shelf to pair with your meal, and if it’s a new favorite, you can stock up on a few bottles to take home.

Rosenthaler Str. 61. T: 030 28097212. www.muretlabarba.de

Hugos on the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers great views of the city along with the Michelin-starred french-German cuisine of chef thomas Kammeier. Its reputation as one of Berlin’s go-to gourmet destinations is well earned. €€€€. tue–sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapester str. 2. s+u Zoologischer Garten. C4

Les Solistes refined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restaurant in the Waldorf astoria widespread renown. under the leadership of star chef Pierre Gagnaire, the menu has clear french influences while daring to incorporate flavors from India, the Middle east, and further afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed sun. www.waldorfastoriaberlin. com. Hardenbergstr. 28. t: 030.8140000. s+u Zoologischer Garten, u Kurfürstendamm. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer the Hotel adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin

stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, and the masterful hand of chef Hendrik otto is evident in every taste. €€€€. tue–sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. unter den linden 77. t: 030.2661196. s+u Brandenburger tor. E3

Pauly Saal

CHarlotteNBurGWIlMersDorf Beef Grill Club by Hasir Steak House. Carnivores will think they’ve died and gone to heaven. Besides a thorough selection of fantastic steak cuts from around the world, prepared to your liking, the Beef Grill Club also features such specialties as rack of lamb, tender veal, and Canadian lobster, served up in a warm, elegant space at the recently opened Mall of Berlin. second location at Kurfürstendamm 72. €€€. Daily l&D. www.beefgrillclub-hasir.de. leipziger Platz 12. s+u Potsdamer Platz. t: 030.20644390. e3 B4

Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus

German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, which is reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or just a glass of wine. €. Daily B, l, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. fasanenstr. 23. t: 030.8825414.

Quark is a German u uhlandstraße. C4

Did you know?

located in the gymnasium of a former Jewish girls’ school, Pauly saal’s chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally cheese that is like creative German cuisine, which was a richer version of Enoiteca Il Calice newly awarded a Michelin star in 2013. yogurt.

Italian. a place to relax and enjoy a Meat dishes made from local game are carefully selected glass of wine from a special highlight. €€€. Daily l&D, closed their well-stocked shelves together with an sun. www.paulysaal.com. auguststr. 11-13. innovative creation from the kitchen, like ravioli t: 030.33006070. s oranienburger straße. E2 with eggplant, feta cheese, and swordfish. you can also take home a bottle of wine from their shop Reinstoff next door. €€€. Mon-sat l&D. www.enoiteca-ilChef Daniel achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars calice.de. Walter-Benjamin-Platz 4. t: 030.3242308. by playing it safe. the two nightly dinner menus u adenauerplatz. B4 at reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield Goldhorn Beefclub – are successful experiments in exciting, avantSteakhouse. this meatlover's restaurant offers its garde cuisine. How about some licorice algae or guests prime cuts of meat from the finest cattle miso praline? €€€€. tue–sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. breeds around the world, including Black angus,

Courtesy of Muret la BarBa

his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Vegetarian options available. Warm, wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio for the warmer months. €€€. Wedsun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-linckeufer 44a. t: 030.61289992. u Kottbusser tor. F4

Managing to be both luxurious and minimalist at the same time, the Michelin-starred Vau is one of the highest caliber restaurants in the city.

Headed by star chef Kolja Kleeberg, who has since expanded upon his fame with a tV cooking show, the Vau kitchen combines the best of french and German culinary traditions. €€€€. Mon–sat l&D. www.vau-berlin.de. Jägerstr. 54-55. t: 030.2029730. u Hausvogteiplatz. E3

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Ristorante // Enoiteca

Enjoy also our sunny patio and our special offers for a quick lunch stop!

Walter-Benjamin-Platz 4 (only 2 minutes from Kurfürstendamm) open mon – sat from noon to 2 am reservations 030 324 23 08 · www.enoiteca-il-calice.de

Marco Müller OUTSTANDING WINES AND FINE CUISINE

It’s not just the rich and excellent wine selection that surprises guests, but also the many creations of chef Marco Müller: each dish is a masterpiece of art and flavor. It’s no wonder Müller and his team received a Michelin star and 17 Gault-Milau points. We are looking forward to your visit!

OPEN THU – SAT, CLOSED SUN AND MON

Restaurant: 6:30 –10:30pm Wine bar: 4 –11pm CHAUSSEESTRASSE 8, 10115 BERLIN-MITTE TEL: +49 (0)30 24628760 | WWW.WEINBAR-RUTZ.DE www.wheretraveler.com 49

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DINING

Berlin’s Best Ice Cream Parlors

Berliners are obsessed with ice cream, which is why you’ll see parlors on practically every corner. Taste the most decadent flavors at our favorite shops.

ROCKY ROAD A fancy scoop of American-style ice cream can be had at Hokey Pokey in Prenzlauer Berg. Stargarder Str. 73. S+U Schönhauser Allee

MASCARPONE WITH ACACIA HONEY The perfect place to cool off between shopping and sightseeing is at Caffé E Gelato in the Potsdamer Platz Arkaden mall, serving up to 40 Italian-style flavors.

S+U Potsdamer Platz

WHITE CHOCOLATE WITH GINGER AND ORANGE The queue outside Vanille & Marille attests to its reputation. The all-natural ice cream is made in the backyard of their main shop in Kreuzberg.

Hagelberger Str. 1.

U Gneisenaustraße

BLACK SESAME Hidden away on a side street just off Winterfeldtplatz is Berlin Homemade Icecream, where everything from the caramel to the cookies is made in-house. Elßholzstr.

10. U Kleistpark

CHERRYMAINIA At Boxhagener Platz, the bohemian heart of Friedrichshain, you’ll find Der Eisbärliner. The ice cream is delivered by Tanne B, a popular brand offering delicious soy options. Gärtnerstr. 11.

U Frankfurter Tor

Paris Bar French. A long-time West Berlin institution,

Paris Bar has seen such celebrities as Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro as patrons over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French musts like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw many guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr.

152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features

modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. Housed in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters, designed for sharing, tempts as much as do the sumptuous main dishes and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www. sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings.

Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de.

Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704.

S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. When in Mitte, try their second location at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com.

Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415.

S Ostkreuz. Off Map

KREUZBERG Amrit and Mirchi Indian/Singapore-style. Berlin’s most iconic

Indian restaurant, Amrit boasts four locations across the city, each serving aromatic curries and an all-day happy hour with cocktails under €5. Its sister restaurant, Mirchi, serves Singaporestyle cuisine in Kreuzberg (Oranienstr. 202) and Mitte (Oranienburger Str. 45). Check website for other Amrit locations. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.amrit. de. www.mirchi.de. Oranienstr. 202-203.

T: 030.28045481/82. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Just Like Home The kind of café that you can truly fall in love with is one that feels like an extension of your own living room.

Neukölln’s homey Café Katulki certainly fits the bill. The Italian and Polish owners have imbued this place with a cozy feel, not to mention tasty cakes, snacks, and down-to-earth dishes from their respective countries, all served on gaily hand-painted ceramics from Poland.

Every Friday is pierogi day, attracting not only homesick Polish expats but also fans of the savory dumplings. The vegetarian and vegan-friendly menu offers everything from breakfast to light meals to decadent baked goods, which you can enjoy on comfortable armchairs or at antique tables that look like they’ve come straight from Grandma’s parlor. If the tempting selection of resplendent cakes in the vitrine leaves you plagued with indecision, go for a fat wedge of szarlotka, a cinnamon-dusted Polish apple cake. Friedelstr. 41.

T: 030 20629096. www.katulki.wordpress.com

Barcelona Spanish. Savor the best Spain has to offer, from original paella to fish and meat dishes grilled on lava stone, as well as a large selection of imported wines and homemade tapas. €€. Daily L&D. www.barcelona.berlin. Friedrichstr. 211.

T: 030.70228336. U Kochstraße. E3/4

Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city.

The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the

ICE CREAM: © THINKSTOCK; CAFÉ KATULKI: © LORENZO PESCE.

INSIDE SCOOP

Galloway, and Charolais, cooked on a first-class charcoal grill. Iberian pork, organic poultry, and fresh fish and seafood, complemented by fine wines and creative cocktails, round-off the menu.

Reservations required. €€. Daily L&D. www. goldhorn-beefclub.de. Mommsenstr. 12.

T: 030.31806370. U Adenauerplatz. C4

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr.

10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities and journalists from the Tageszeitung newspaper upstairs. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23.

T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European Fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks. Even in colder months, the post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – impresses. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com.

Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030.319881860.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

MITTE Balikci Ergün Turkish. This quirky hole-in-the-wall, with the look and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the

traditional Turkish way. Fried sardines and grilled catch-of-the-day fillets are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€. Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382. T: 030.3975737.

S Bellevue. D3

€€. Daily D. www.chicagowilliamsbbq.de.

Hannoversche Str. 2. T: 030.28042422.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Barist

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to the mastery of celebrity chef Stephan "Cookie" Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com.

Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business

lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends can all be found right in the heart of Mitte’s busiest neighborhood. Located in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station, this spot with a big terrace out front makes for a perfect meal break any time of day. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13.

T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Chicago Williams BBQ American. A culinary ambassador for the American

BBQ tradition, Chicago Williams specializes in meat and more meat. Order a combo of sticky ribs, pulled pork, or jerk chicken, and sides like coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, or mashed potatoes. Meals come served on a plastic tray, but with meat this delicious, who needs plates?

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

Grand Rocka International. If you want to be in the center of the action, you can’t beat the location of Grand Rocka.

The inside takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station and features a grand wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, while out front the terrace spills across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de Am Zwirngraben 6–7.

T: 030.24638606. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other

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DINING additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www. grillroyal.com. friedrichstr. 105b. t: 030.28879288. s friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. the reichstag is much more than a sightseeing destination. thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. located on the roof of the reichstag building, the restaurant boasts splendid views in addition to the refined, modern German cuisine. reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, l, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der republik 1. t: 030 2262990. u Bundestag, s Brandenburger tor. D3/E3.

German. maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “munich sausage parade.” from the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of mitte. €–€€. Daily l & D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. friedrichstr. 185190. t: 030.20450559. u stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad, Flammkuchen pies, and a number of meat dishes. Very long beer menu. €.

Daily l&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. unter den linden 35. t: 030.22487257. s+u friedrichstraße, u französische straße. F2

Paris-Moskau International. this rustic house, built in 1898

and lucky to survive two World Wars, was a pub and a russian restaurant in two of its many past lives. today, it’s a fine restaurant that seamlessly incorporates french, russian, and German culinary influences. €€€. Daily D. www.paris-moskau.de. altmoabit 141. t: 030.3942081. s+u Hauptbahnhof. D3

Superfood Superheroes Vegetables: They do a body good. If you’ve been going a little too heavy on sausages, beer, and döner kebab since your arrival in Berlin, Daluma is just the spot to detox, recharge, and give your body some much-needed nourishment. The casual Mitte eatery opened in late 2014 to supply health-conscious Berliners with green smoothies, tasty vegetarian breakfasts and lunches, and even take-home juice cleanses, for those committed to getting a fresh start. The menu, which is 100-percent organic and predominately raw, is liberally pepped up with such exotic-sounding superfood supplements as moringa powder, chia seeds, lucuma, and matcha. Choose from an assortment of salads, soups, and customizable grain and bean bowls, topped with goodies like hemp seeds, herbs, almond butter, and sprouts. Or grab a cold-pressed juice or smoothie to go. The Burn, Baby, Burn, with beets, guava, orange, acerola, and invigorating green coffee, provides an energy kick that will last through a whole afternoon of sightseeing or shopping. Weinbergsweg 3. T: 030 20950255. www.daluma.de

The Grand the sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an american grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. the upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent and cosmopolitan late-night scene. €€€. mon–fri l, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. t: 030.2789099555. u rosa-luxemburg-Platz. E4

PreNZlauer BerG

Restauration 1840

I Due Forni

German. located directly under s Hackescher

Italian. the atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizzaloving crowds at bay. the generously sized thincrust concoctions are famed around the city. €.

Daily l&D. schönhauser allee 12. t: 030.44017333. u senefelderplatz. F2

markt station, the elegant, old-timey restaurant has been lovingly decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden twenties. think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace that bustles with action on warm days. the menu: classic German meets modern european. €€. mon–thu l&D, fri–sun B, l, D. www.berlin-1840.de. am Zwirngraben 10. t: 030.24727401. s Hackescher markt. F2/F3

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s homegrown star chef tim

raue has done it again. sra Bua, in the Hotel adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of asia. Guests can expect only the highest caliber thai and Japanese cooking, and the raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. tue-sat D. www.srabua-adlon.de.

Behrenstr. 72. s+u Brandenburger tor. E3

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes lucky leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. the small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54. t: 030.66408710. u senefelderplatz. F2

The Bird American. the hefty burgers here have a real cult following, and many swear they’re the best in the city. the menu also includes steaks, chicken wings,

and a mean club sandwich. Vegetarians will leave hungry. €. Daily l&D. www.thebirdinberlin.com. am falkplatz 5. t: 030.51053283. s+u schönhauser allee. F1

sCHöNeBerG Café Aroma Italian. a long-standing neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing high-quality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. the sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. mon–fri D, sat l&D, sun B, l, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. t: 030.7825821. s+u yorckstraße. D5

Double Eye Café. this tiny coffee shop regularly has a line snaking out the front door, and no wonder: the owner has won multiple european and worldwide barista championships. some pastries are also on offer, but it’s the excellent coffee that draws the crowds. €. mon–sat B&l. www.doubleeye.de. akazienstr. 22. t: 0179.4566960. u eisenacher straße. D5

Renger-Patzsch German. all dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-austrian cuisine. meat dishes are a specialty, as are the alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€.

Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. t: 030.7842059. u eisenacher straße. D5

Courtesy of Daluma

Maximilians

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ENTERTAINMENT

A Voyage Of Discovery In Dance

O

ne of Europe’s most important and celebrated dance festivals, Tanz im August, returns for its 27th consecutive year with a lineup of worldrenowned and groundbreaking dance companies, as well as new projects by breakout Berlin artists.

Making its festival premiere is the Korean National Dance Company, with a performance of Bul-ssang by Ahn Aesoon, one of South Korea’s leading figures in dance. The production is highly contemporary, combining such varying forms of movement as classical Indian Karthak, martial arts, and K-pop dance as it contrasts past and present, East and West.

Vibrant sets and an on-stage appearance

by DJ Soulscape make this one of the most boundary-pushing shows on the roster.

After its critically acclaimed appearance

at last year’s Tanz, La Veronal returns for the German debut of its latest work, Voronia.

The Barcelona-based troupe, known for creating works that marry dance and geography, this time takes us on an investigation of the concept of evil – with nods to Dante – in the world’s deepest cavern, located in the Georgian Autonomous Republic of Abkhazia.

Company leader and founder Marcos Morau is an acclaimed dancer and choreographer in his own right, and this is a prime opportunity to view his work live.

Other notable performances include Bronze

by Gold, a collaboration between

Stephanie Thiersch and the Asasello Quartet that embraces the concept of extremes by overloading the senses, and Eisa Jocson’s Macho Dancer, which examines dance in the adult service industry, most notably the male performers in her homeland of the Philippines.

All of which lives up to the 2015 festival’s festival motto, a quote from literary heavyweight Marcel Proust: “The only real voyage of discovery consists not in seeing new landscapes, but in having new eyes, in seeing the universe with the eyes of another. another.”

Tanz im August take takes place in various locations around the city. Visit www.tanzimaugust.de for a complete listing of dates and venues.

13 Aug to 4 Sep Sep.

TOP: © HUGO GLENDINNING; DANCER: © BENGT GUSTAFSSON.

Berlin’s famed festival Tanz im August mirrors the city’s own diverse and unconventional personality, as Jenna Rose Robbins reveals.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM

Ballet & Opera Deutsche Oper a 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, rossini, and Mozart. 1, 2 Aug: Summer guest: Jesus Christ Superstar. 28, 29 Aug: Romeo and Juliet (Berlioz). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35. t: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. Summer break. www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. t: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company performs at various locations. Summer break. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. t: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres.

Summer break. www.staatsoper-berlin.de. t: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

ClaSSiCal COnCertS

Konzerthaus this charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

Summer break. www.konzerthaus.de.

Gendarmenmarkt. t: 030.203092101.

U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie the iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon rattle, but also hosts other acclaimed ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts tuesdays 1pm. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbertvon-Karajan-Str. 1. t: 030.254880. S+U potsdamer platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of european concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. ticket hotline: 030.20298715.

DanCe & experiMental SpaCeS Dock 11 Studios & Eden*****

Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. am lustgarten. t: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. t: 030.4481222. U eberswalder Straße, rosenthaler platz. F2; eden***** Studios: Breite Str. 43 (pankow). t: 030.35120312. S+U pankow. Off Map

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer)

part of the philharmonie, this additional concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts. Free lunchtime concerts tuesdays. Summer break. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. t: 030.254880. S+U potsdamer platz. D3

this confluence of culture is renowned for its cutting-edge shows and hip performances. www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. t: 030.2590040. U Hallesches tor. E4

Berliner Dom

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. its students are members of important orchestras,

Musical Healing

Courtesy of BJörk

choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. t: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Now in the third decade of her solo career, Björk remains Iceland’s bestknown export. Her newest release, Vulnicura, her first in four years, finds the singer-songwriter working through the recent separation from her exhusband by means of epic string arrangements, rugged beats, and Björk’s own meandering melodies.

Few venues make such an apt backdrop for the electric performer as the outdoor stage at Spandau Citadel. 2 Aug. www.citadel-music-festival.de

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts

Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Discover ORIGINAL MONDAY at KulturBrauerei, feat. select undubbed films with German subtitles!

Info and tickets at cinestar.de

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ENTERTAINMENT performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S oranienburger Straße. E2

Tanzfabrik This dance-research and performance center puts together a rich program of contemporary acts. www.tanzfabrik-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 68.

T: 030.7865861. S+U Yorckstraße, U Mehringdamm. E5

MoViE THEaTERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles.

www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and popular new releases. www.yorck.de. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019.

U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale film festival offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Rock, PoP, JaZZ, WoRld A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and a-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and diana krall. open daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de.

Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550.

S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030.

S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night. Free jam sessions Wed. www.b-flat-berlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. akazienstr. 28.

T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during a live performance of legends like Elvis, abba, Johnny cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed–Sat at 8:30pm, Sun at 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and reggaeton. www.havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr.

30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Kulturbrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as an überpopular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser allee 36.

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Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr.

12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. Concerts are held in the cellar, drinks served in upstairs. www.quasimodo.de.

Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190.

T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock

productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 4 Aug: Damien Rice. 11 Aug: Patti Smith.

www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

UFA Fabrik The site of a former film company now presents more than 18,000 square meters of culture – festivals, conventions, multimedia events, and performances – for all ages, and with an ecofriendly approach. www.ufafabrik.de.

T: 030.755030. Viktoriastr. 10–18.

U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map

THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 11–16 Aug: Rocky Horror Show. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr.

101. oT: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. Call for info. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de.

COURTESY OF TRINITY MUSIC

Godmother of Punk Punk rockers young and old should mark their calendars as Patti Smith honors the longevity of her first album, Horses, by performing the landmark release cover to cover at Tempodrom on 11 August. Often seen as the progenitor of the punk movement, Smith is known for poetically powerful performances filled with hallucinatory imagery and raw talent. www.tempodrom.de

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ENTERTAINMENT Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582.

U Spichernstraße. C4

except Monday. www.palast-berlin.eu. Friedrichstr.

107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bimah, The Jewish Theater

Kookaburra Comedy Club

Most shows are in German, but frequent Yiddish song performances appear on the roster. www.juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr. 101.

T: 030.2511096. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The Prenzlauer Berg club hosts numerous comedy shows, including improv and “comedy sports,” many of which are in English. www.comedyclub.de.

Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. E3

Bluemax Theater The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Daily shows, except Monday. www.stage-entertainment.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. Until 9 Aug: DUMMY Lab, a successful performance that combines dance, music, and video art. Sun at 6pm, Sat 6 and 9pm, Tue–Fri 8pm.

From 10 Aug: Wunderkammer. Sun at 6pm, Sat 6 and 9pm, Tue–Fri 8pm. www.chamaeleonberlin. de. Inside the Hackeschen Höfen, Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions, and variety shows at this 1920 theater.

All month: The Wyld, a Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. Shows every day

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107.

Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions, many of which with English surtitles. www.schaubuehne.de.

Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Sternbergtheater Twice a week, this theater inside the Spielbank Berlin hosts comedian Karsten Kaie’s hilarious English-language show How To Become A Berliner In One Hour? Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. www. sternbergberlin.de. Toll number: 01806.570070.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Theater am Potsdamer Platz The 1800-seat theater designed by Renzo Piano features musicals and international performances.

All month: Beyond the Horizon, musical (German with

English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www.stage-entertainment. de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Theater des Westens One of Berlin’s most popular musical and operetta theaters. All month: Ich War Noch Niemals in New York, musical comedy (in German) with 20 hits by Udo Jürgens, one of the country’s all-time greatest pop stars. Shows daily except Monday. www. stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4.

Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. All month: Cabaret, The Musical. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center offers plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr.

227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté Mirrored walls, red velvet, and a starry-sky ceiling define this sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudevilleinspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96.

T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

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NIGHTLIFE

Legendary Nightlife Sometimes, the way to a great drink takes you through a bit of history first, as Hilda Hoy found at Le Croco Bleu.

Courtesy of Le CroCo BLeu

E

veryone loves a good story, and Le Croco Bleu, one of the best spots in Prenzlauer Berg for an impeccably mixed drink, has a good one behind it. The ritzy cocktail bar takes its name from a popular legend – never confirmed – that at the end of WWII, as the city lay in ruins, two crocodiles from the local zoo were kept alive in a tub in the basement of the Bötzow Brewery, where the bar now makes its home.

From 1864 until that war, the Bötzow family brewed their famed white beer in this sprawling brick complex. Today, the converted facility holds offices, art exhibition spaces, Le Croco Bleu, and neighbor La Soupe Populaire, a restaurant by local culinary superstar Tim Raue that serves upscale German cuisine. The matching of the two is no coincidence: a post-meal nightcap at Le Croco Bleu is the

best conclusion to a dinner at La Soupe Populaire.

Housed in the brewery’s former engine room with many of the machines still left intact, Le Croco Bleu strikes a moody and atmospheric impression, dressed up with hip, eclectic décor like turquoise leather upholstery and gleaming chandeliers. The expert bar staff puts great care into each of the elaborate, oftentimes inventive drinks they make, and creative presentation makes the drinking experience even more memorable. The Flaming Bötzow, for example, is a brandy concoction set ablaze before thrilled guests, then served in a bottle wrapped in smoldering paper.

Cheers to that!

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NIGHTLIFE

Ankerklause A canal-side nautical tavern. Drinks come with beautiful views of boats passing by. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm) www.ankerklause.de.

Kottbusser Damm 104. t: 030.6935649. u Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. lichtensteinallee 2. t: 030.2544930.

S tiergarten. C3

Dicke Wirtin A charlottenburg institution, this old-fashioned Berliner Kneipe restaurant serves great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. carmerstr. 9. t: 030.3124952.

S Savignyplatz, S+u Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and comforting cuisine, seasonal specialties, and, of course, lots of beer. Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. t: 030.4485688. u eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug the "beer garden in the tiergarten" serves German specialties that complement your brew, including a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-Breslau-Str. t: 030.3139909. S+u Zoologischer Garten. C3

cASiNOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options as well as 350 gaming machines. Open daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. t: 030.255990. S+u Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

cluBS 40 Seconds A modern and trendy rooftop club frequented by international stars and urban jetsetters. R&B and soul on Fridays, house on Saturdays. casual smart/elegant dress code. www.40seconds.de.

Potsdamer Str. 58. t: 030.8906420.

S+u Potsdamer Platz. D4

Amber Suite the perfect place for over-27s to socialize while dancing and drinking offers two dance floors (playing house, dance music, and black beats), three bar lounges, a buffet with barbecue in summer, and a pleasant terrace for chats under the stars. Open Fri from 7pm till late, Sat from 8pm. www.ambersuite.info. Mariendorfer Damm 1. t: 030.74070609. u ullsteinstraße. Off Map

Berghain/Panorama Bar Known as the "world capital of techno," the club is famous for its incredible sound system and ultra-selected crowd: the doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Dress code strictly casual.

Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am

Wriezener Bahnhof. t: 030.29360210.

S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus

Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com.

Brunnenstr. 177. u Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. it’s salsa on Monday, tango on tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de.

Auguststr. 24. t: 030.2829295. u Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Das Hotel

Felix Club

Green Door Cocktail Bar

A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed such celebrities as Nicolas cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris hilton. Open Mon, thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr.

72. t: 030.301117152. u Französische Straße. E3

One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and kitsch décor. the cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (until 4am Fri & Sat). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. t: 030.2152515. u Nollendorfplatz. D4

The Pearl

Harry’s New York Bar

One of the most luxurious clubs in town, the charlottenburg newcomer attracts the poshest crowds from nearly every Kiez in Berlin, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers.

Open thu-Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de.

Fasanenstr. 81. t: 030.31518890.

S+u Zoologischer Garten G4

An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand hotel esplanade Berlin, lützowufer 15. t: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop lützowplatz. D4

the old wooden tables, chandeliers, and high ceilings at this relaxed bar recall the Paris of yesteryear. Next door, the DJ plays vintage classics from the '60s to the '90s. Daily from 2pm. dashotelclassic.blogspot.de. Mariannenstr. 26a. t: 030.84118433. u Kottbusser tor. F4

Knutschfleck Cocktailbörse

Soda Club this Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From thursday to Sunday, dance all night to disco, electro, and techno. www.sodaberlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97. t: 030.44315155. u eberswalder Straße. F1

White Trash Fast Food, the popular expat institution located on the Spree River, features delicious fusion food, live music, and its own tattoo studio. www.whitetrashfastfood.com

Suicide Circus Friday is techno night, while Saturdays lean more toward house and tech-house at this trendy and sweaty club, which has hosted some of the biggest DJs in europe. Outdoor dance floor in summer.

Wed–Sun. www.suicide-berlin.com. Revaler Str. 99.

S+u Warschauer Straße. H4

Tresor housed in the safe of an old department store, tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. t: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

WiNe & cOcKtAilS Bar Tausend celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11. t: 030.27582070.

S+u Friedrichstraße. E3

Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden next to a Mitte police station.

At Berlin’s first cocktail stock exchange, the more people drink, the more prices drop. Alongside an entertainment program packed full with Moulin Rouge Burlesque nights, Studio 54 dance-offs, karaoke, and open mic on Sundays. www. knutschfleck-berlin.de.

Alexanderstr. 3.

S+u Alexanderplatz. F2

LaBanca Bar

the hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avant-garde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. live music Wed–Sat and rooftop terrace in summer. 9am–1am. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. t: 030.4606090. u Französische Straße. E3

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de.

Novalisstr. 11. t: 030.28387676. u Oranienburger tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. lovely garden in summer. 24h a day except tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. t: 030.3138038. u uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4

Victoria Bar top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Open daily 6.30pm–3am (until 4am on Friday & Saturday). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. t: 030.25759977. S+u Potsdamer Platz. D4

© PhiliP Schulte

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ESSENTIALS useful information

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EXPERT

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Berlin

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Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, t: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof apotheke.

t: 030.20614190. s Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes Museum Berlin Pass: allows three days of unlimited access to major museums. www.visitberlin.de Berlin Welcome Card: public transport for three days and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. www.visitberlin.de City Tour Card: as above, but conditions vary, so best to check which is most suitable for you. www.citytourcard.com

Berlin airports Berlin Tegel (TXL) approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. t: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

ask the Concierge Sebastian Schoenfisch, concierge at the Grand Hyatt Berlin and national webmaster at Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./Les Clefs d'Or Germany, shares his tips for a perfect Berlin visit. www.hotelconcierge.de

Courtesy of Grand Hyatt Berlin

Describe your perfect Berlin day.

Breakfast at the Fischerhütte on Schlachtensee lake, followed by a walk on Peacock Island (Pfaueninsel) or in Glienicke Park. A visit to the Museum of Technology in the afternoon and then dinner at Rutz, my favorite restaurant and wine bar.

Where do you take out-of-town friends?

A definite is the Berlin Wall Documentation Center, with its Berlin Wall Memorial on Bernauer Straße. I take them for a walk through the former Jewish district around Oranienburger Straße and to the Asisi Panorama of the Berlin Wall at Checkpoint Charlie. The main attractions, such as the Brandenburg Gate, are also must-sees.

Secret Berlin tips?

The Berlin Underworlds (Berliner Unterwelten) tours at Gesundbrunnen station and Deli LuLa am Markt in Schöneberg.

Describe Berlin in three words.

Pulsating, forward-looking, multifaceted.

What August events do you recommend?

The Long Night of Museums on 29 August and Red Bull Flying Bach at the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt, the latter of which brings together classical music and breakdance.

Where is the coziest place in Berlin?

On the shores of Wannsee lake.

A German culinary speciality our readers should try?

They shouldn’t miss taste-testing Currywurst in Berlin, but my absolute highlight is venison with red cabbage and dumplings at the Vox Restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Berlin or Restaurant Aigner on Gendarmenmarkt.

What characteristics distinguish Berlin from other cities?

More museums than rainy days, more bridges than Venice, more hotel rooms than Manhattan, and, of course, its history.

What Berlin spot would you recommend for romance?

The Oberbaumbrücke bridge at sunset.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. the tXl express bus to alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the u-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-platz. Bus 128 links to the u-Bahn at Kurt-schumacher-platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. tickets cost €2.70.

By taxi: regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: service center in terminal a (ground floor). t: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. t: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: deutsche Bahn-operated

re7 or rB14 to ostbahnhof, alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. re9 to Hauptbahnhof via südkreuz and potsdamer platz. trains take approx. 45 mins. tickets cost €3.30.

By S-Bahn: trains s9 and s45 to Hauptbahnhof, via ostkreuz and südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. tickets cost €3.30.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to rudow station connect with the u-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. tickets cost €3.30.

By (night) bus: arrivals between midnight and 4am mon–fri can take bus n7 to central areas.

By taxi: regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: at the multi-storey car park p4. t: 030.60911150.

GettinG around Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. single tickets cost €2.70, or four-trip tickets for €9, which you can validate as you need. www.wheretraveler.com 61

WB AUGUST 2015 12 ESSENTIALS.indd 61

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ESSENTIALS If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.60. Day tickets cost €6.90 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €16.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €29.50.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every 5 mins (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The whole U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket you can also hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to the lakeside village of Kladow. It leaves every hour and takes about 20 mins.

Rail Travel

U Kochstraße in Kreuzberg has been at the forefront of Cold War history since the Wall went up in 1961. Located near Checkpoint Charlie, the station served as the last stop on the U6 line in West Berlin. sure your goods are unused. Go to the refund counter and present the stamped form, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

detailed and comprehensive knowledge of the local market. www.realestate.bnpparibas.de. neues Kranzler Eck. Kurfürstendamm 22.

T: 030.884650. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Engel & Voelkers

Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company, including the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de, T: 0180.6996633 (toll number).

REAL ESTATE AGEnCIES

Rent A Bike

Allianz

Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations.

offers select properties and is developing a number of building projects in various areas of Berlin. www.allianz-realestate.com.

Joachimstalerstr. 10-12. T: 030.212343562.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Architects, economists, certified real estate agents, and apprentices serve international clients on a daily basis. They provide real estate services, building project planning, and supervision, as well as analyses and market reports. www.guthmannestate.com. Blücherstr. 22. T: 030.69004240.

U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Berlin Capital Investments

HIHC Horvat

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de.

T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.

T: 0180.6003690 (toll number)

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MonEy SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a Tax-Free Form when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent and a customs stamp obtained no later than three months after the date of purchase. Make

Ad Hoc Immobilien Specializes in Berlin and Brandenburg real estate sales. Apartments, whole buildings, villas, and more. www.adhoc-immo.de. Hohe Allee 36, 15366 neuenhagen bei Berlin. T: 03342.259560. Off Map

one of the world’s leading service companies in the provision of high-quality residential and commercial real estate and yachts in the premium segment. www.engelvoelkers.com. Bleibtreustr.

34-35. T: 030.88001188. S Savignyplatz. B4

Guthmann Estate

Specializes in apartment sales in central Berlin for both investment and self-use. Check website to search for small units, big apartments, or penthouses in Berlin’s most popular neighborhoods. www.berlin-capital.com.

T: 030.52009700.

This real estate service agency will analyze clients’ housing needs and find an apartment to buy or rent on their behalf. HICH Horvat also offers relocation services for expats and international clients. www.hihc.de. olympische Str. 1.

T: 030.33099930. U neu Westend. Off Map

Berlin Hyp Immobilien

Virtu - Finest Real Estate

Helps clients better understand the German real estate market and offers a wide range of Berlin commercial properties, from office buildings to industrial estates to shops. www.berlinhypimmobilien.de. Budapester Str. 1. T: 030.25999908.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Experts in the field of real estate, law, and economics joined to set new standards in the field of real estate marketing and consulting in Germany. www.virtu.com.de/en/. Jägerstr. 58-60.

T: 030.20679590. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlin Yield Estate Residential and commercial buildings in Berlin. www.berlinyieldestate.com. Unter den Linden 16.

T: 030.68324467. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlinmaegleren These agents cover a wide range of property types, from villas to apartments, and also offer rental services. Second branch in Prenzlauer Berg. www.berlinmaegleren.de. Rankestr. 30.

T: 030.61202398. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

BNP Paribas Real Estate With its own subsidiaries and a close-knit network, this real estate agency is present nationwide.

Covers all relevant real estate markets and ensures

Your Place Berlin These real estate agents and mediators offer personalized services and free consultations, promising to negotiate better deals for their clients. They specialize in clients who live abroad, offering to perform all research and to visit the apartments before the client’s arrival. www. yourplaceberlin.com. Willibald-Alexis-Str. 2.

T: 030.53064083. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Ziegert Immobilien Has a large portfolio of apartments in all of Berlin’s neighborhoods and helps clients understand the German real estate market, offering advice on investment possibilities. www.ziegert-immobilien. de. Schlüterstr. 54. T: 030.88035350.

S Savignyplatz. B4

© THInKSToCK

The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

62 W H E R E B E R L I n I AU G U S T 2015

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TRANSPORT MAP

BVG licence numBer: BVG-0079.13, 4 may 2015.

ESSENTIALS

www.wheretraveler.com 63

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10/07/2015 16:16

U

[ WHERE IN BERLIN]

My Perfect Day

What have been your top three cabbie recommendations for eating in Berlin?

Balikçi Ergün (p. 51), a seafood restaurant under the S-Bahn tracks in Moabit. The chef/owner gets his fish from his brother in Istanbul. Grilled sea bream and fried sardines are excellent here. El-Reda (www.el-reda-restaurant.com) is cabbie Christoph Knaack’s favorite place for Persian and Lebanese food. Don’t miss lamb kebab Balikçi Ergün

#6 or ayran (a yogurt drink) with mint. Gel Gör Inegöl Köfteci (Kottbusser Damm 80) is a 24-hour sausage parlor where they butcher their veal in-house and make what is probably the best künefe (shredded filo, butter, and honey with soft cheese) in Berlin.

you a sense of how much is still under construction, how quickly the city is transforming, even though it’s been 25 years since the Wall came down. In the taxi, you also get a sense of how Berlin really is a collection of villages.

Layne Mosler [Author & Blogger]

Layne Mosler followed her appetite for intrepid food exploration to create her Taxi Gourmet blog (www. taxigourmet.com). Since 2007, she’s been hopping into taxis around the world and asking cabbies to take her to their favorite places to eat.

The experiment began while she was living in Buenos Aires and continued after she moved to New York, where she also drove a cab herself, and then to Berlin, where she’s been living for five years. Her book about her adventures, Driving Hungry, was published by Pantheon/Random House last month.

When you have friends in town for a visit, where do you take them?

To Little Istanbul, the area around Kottbusser Tor, for etli ekmek (a pizza-like flatbread) at Konyali (www.konyali-berlin.de), and börek at Leylak (www.leylak.de) before we walk to the Turkish market on Maybachufer, then to Çarik Kuruyemiş (Kottbusser Damm 73) for freshly roasted sunflower seeds. And I always take people to Rogacki (www.rogacki. de) for smoked butterfish and to Klemke’s (Mommsenstr. 9), a German wine store and cafeteria with good Senfeier (eggs with mustard sauce), and to Hops & Barley (www. hopsandbarley-berlin.de), a bar and microbrewery.

If you had an entire day off, how would you spend it?

I would spend the morning at Café Tasso (www.cafe-tasso.de), drinking espresso and Anna Durkes looking at books in the basement. Then I’d pick up some supplies at Proviant (www.proviant-berlin. de), an Italian deli not far from where I live in Friedrichshain, and bike to Treptower Park for a picnic. In the afternoon, I’d head to Kreuzberg for a coffee ice cream at Anna Durkes (www.annadurkes.com), then get a dürüm döner to go from Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap (www. mustafas.de), then go to an open-air movie, or the Kino International on Karl-MarxAllee if the weather’s bad.

What makes Berlin’s food scene different from that of New York, where you were writing your blog prior to moving here?

Berlin isn’t as diverse as New York, and the food scene reflects that, though this is starting to change. I think it’s the sense of possibility that draws young chefs here.

Everything is a little less established in Berlin, which gives young chefs a lot of freedom to experiment.

What can be revealed by seeing Berlin through the eyes of a taxi driver?

Driving around in a taxi really gives

Treptower Park

LAYNE MOSLER IN FRONT OF KONYALI: DAVID GORDON SMITH FOR SPIEGEL ONLINE; COFFEE ICE CREAM, ESPRESSO, AND TREPTOWER PARK: © THINKSTOCK; BALIKÇI ERGÜN: © ALI EMINOV VIA FLICKR.

What is one of the most memorable Taxi Gourmet cab rides you’ve been on in Berlin?

On my first taxi adventure here, I ended up in the cab of a woman named Zille, who moonlights as a naturopath. She recommended a Lucanian (from a region in Italy) restaurant in Schöneberg called Muntagnola (www.muntagnola.de). It’s a family-owned place with most pastas made by hand, like strangolapreti (priest stranglers), which look similar to gnocchi but are stuffed with raisins and pine nuts and sautéed in sage butter.

Delicious.

66 W H E R E B E R L I N I AU G U S T 2015

WB AUGUST 2015 13 My perfect Day.indd 66

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WB NICOLAVIERTEL.indd 1

06/07/2015 12:01

www.liebeskind-berlin.com

LIEBESKIND BERLIN

LIEBESKIND BERLIN

LIEBESKIND BERLIN

MITTE NEUE SCHÖNHAUSER STR. 8 10178 BERLIN

MALL OF BERLIN LEIPZIGER PLATZ 12 10117 BERLIN

ALEXA GRUNERSTRASSE 20 10179 BERLIN

Mon – Sat 11am – 8pm

Mon – Sat 10am – 9pm

Mon – Sat 10am – 9pm

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09/07/2015 08:43