Where Magazin Dezember 2015 by Where Berlin/ DINAMIX Media GmbH

BEST OF MORE THAN 300 SHOPS BERLIN´S LARGEST FOODCOURT

SHOPPING Monday - Saturday 10am - 9pm

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Berlin

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CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

10 16

SHOPPING

5 Editor’s Note

6 Hot Dates

From vegan fashions to exquisite cosmetics, shopping addicts will find plenty to love in Berlin.

Highlights of this month's events, from a Christmas circus to festive gospel concerts.

SIGHTSEEING

Dinosaur fossils and labyrinth playgrounds for kids promise lots to see and do.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

45 XX

Housed in a former train station, Hamburger Bahnhof has some of the city's best contemporary art.

XX roast goose to fondue, get From some ideas for festive holiday feasting all month long.

74 My Perfect Day Myriam Halberstam From fudge cake to art deco U-Bahn stations, the creator of Jewish children's books shares her favorite spots in Berlin.

Meet the ballerina starring in the Berlin Staatsballett's beautiful production of The Nutcracker.

Also Inside

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THE MAGIC OF A BERLIN CHRISTMAS. Photo © istock

Discover Berlin's jovial spirit with winter activities and frosty fun galore.

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ON THE COVER

Need some gift inspiration? We've got an idea for everyone on your list.

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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS

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Make the countdown to 2016 at some of the city's most raucous celebrations.

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Get the lowdown on which Christmas markets offer the most festive fun.

18 Happy New Year!

BUS TXLL

10 Berlin's Very Best Christmas Markets

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

THE

CHRISTMAS ISSUE

Where Now

ESSENTIALS

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

Cocktail fans won't be disappointed by the expert drinks at Limonadier.

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Hendrik Schulz-Gerchow of the Waldorf Astoria Berlin offers his tips for experiencing the city.

NIGHTLIFE

69 Ask The Concierge

Berlin

ENTERTAINMENT

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NUTCRACKER ON ICE: COURTESY OF BB PROMOTION; BERLIN CHRISTMAS MARKET: © THINKSTOCK PHOTOS; BICYCLE: VAN MOOF; UMASAN: COURTESY OF UMASAN; NEW YEAR#S EVE: © ISTOCK PHOTOS.

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

RSVP If there's one thing I love, it's having guests. Every year around this time, I start getting an urge to organize dinner parties and holiday celebrations, test new recipes on my friends and just enjoy time with them over a glass of wine.

So here I am, making a list of friends to invite this month, and a list of ingredients to experiment with. If you are thinking of doing the same, I recommend a visit to Marheineke Markthalle in Bergmannstraße for some of the best food products and edible gifts in town, or visit any Christmas market (p. 10) for festive delights. And if you are looking to refurbish your table settings, turn to p. 20 for Annabelle Mallia's recommendations.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen

(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Because there's something about this season that makes us want to stay inside, light up our evenings with candles and decorations, and share the joys of food with others. And it's not just the countdown to the holidays that makes us want to share. It is this physiological feeling of anticipation caused by the run-up to the darkest week of the year, the last week of December. This is probably why most cultures of the past had important celebrations around the winter solstice. Germanic and Celtic tribes had Yule, while the Romans had their Saturnalia, a series of celebrations which included a day of gift-giving and which, according to some, were later Christianized to correspond with the nativity.

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until February, 29th 2016.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

BURN AFTER READING SPY MUSEUM BERLIN POTSDAMER PLATZ ENTRANCE: LEIPZIGER PLATZ 9 OPEN DAILY 10AM — 8PM top secret interactive international

spymuseumberlin.com CUT OUT

GET A FREE SPY POSTCARD* * Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until February, 29th 2016.

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

HOT DATES Happy holidays! Enjoy a month of concerts, festive parties, and ballet on ice. FROM FRIDAY

RONCALLI CHRISTMAS CIRCUS

Step right up! An annual Christmas tradition for Berlin kids (and kids at heart), the Roncalli Christmas Circus is back in the capital from 18 December with near-daily shows to stir up the holiday spirit. The dazzling spectacle at Tempodrom is fun for the whole family, with acrobats, magicians, music, and fabulously costumed clowns. www.roncalli.de

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SUNDAY

HAPPY HANUKKAH!

Every evening throughout the eight days of Hanukkah a new candle will be lit on the largest menorah in Europe, standing at an impressive six meters high in front of the Brandenburg Gate. This year, the Jewish “Festival of Lights" begins at sunset on 6 December – join in at the symbolic yet festive candle lighting at 6pm.

SUNDAY

ST. NICHOLAS DAY

The first weekend of this month is a special one: Both St. Nicholas Day and Advent Sunday, two major celebrations in the German Christmas calendar, fall on the same day. Children celebrate Nikolaustag by leaving shoes outside the door the night before, which St. Nick fills with candy. For Advent festivities, head to the market at Domäne Dahlem, a working farm where kids and adults alike can discover Christmas handicrafts, music, treats, and a crackling bonfire. www.domaene-dahlem.de

FROM FRIDAY

HARLEM GOSPEL NIGHT

Oh happy day! Every holiday season for more than 20 years, Schöneberg’s Apostel-Paulus- Kirche has reverberated with the jubilant music of Donna Brown and the Golden Gospel Pearls, giving locals a taste of African-American gospel. Sing along with the soaring voices, beautiful harmonies, and exuberant choruses. Shows every weekend until 27 Dec. www.franzhans06.de

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Our recommendations for every day of the month!

FROM TUESDAY

NUTCRACKER ON ICE

The magical tale of Clara, her Christmas nutcracker, and the dancing Sugar Plum Fairy comes to life on the ice, charming audiences with a hybrid of classical ballet and ice skating set to Tchaikovsky's timeless score. Nutcracker on Ice is the work of the Imperial Ice Stars, a traveling troupe of champion Russian skaters who will perform 14 shows at the Admiralspalast. www.imperialicestars.com

THURSDAY

NEW YEAR'S EVE AT THE KULTURBRAUEREI

Some one million funseekers will ring in 2016 with music and fireworks at Brandenburg Gate, but those who’d rather not shiver out in the open air head to Kulturbrauerei, a former brewery complex that hosts Berlin’s largest indoor New Year’s party, with nine different party locations and 15 different dance floors all accessible with one ticket. www.silvester-kulturbrauerei.de

FRIDAY

CHRISTMAS IN SWING Get into the swing of the holiday season with a concert from Berlin’s very own king of swing. Andrej Hermlin takes to the stage at Konzerthaus with his Swing Dance Orchestra to play retro holiday hits like Santa Claus Is Coming to Town and Winter Wonderland. Or catch the additional show on 20 December at the Philharmonie’s Kammermusiksaal. www.konzerthaus.de

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DECEMBER Catch the last day of Homosexuality_ies at the Deutsches Historisches Museum. Ballroom enthusiasts can cha-cha the night away at Clärchens Ballhaus.

Taste the flavors of the world at Street Food Thursdays in Markthalle Neun. Stock up on ethnic specialities at the Turkish market along the Maybachufer. Be-bop away at the A-Trane jazz club's latenight jam session. Hope you didn't forget to put your shoes out this morning. Happy St. Nicholas Day! Join a free walking tour of the city sites, leaving daily from Brandenburg Gate.

Take a musical break at the Philharmonie's free lunchtime concert. Get cozy by the fireplace at Café am Neuen See in Tiergarten park. Kids and grownups alike will be enthralled by Hänsel and Gretel at Deutsche Oper. Light the sixth Hanukkah candle on the menorah at Brandenburg Gate. Join the Berlin Christmas Biketour – rumbling motorcyclists dressed up as Santas. Step back in time to the 17th century on a tour of Charlottenburg palace. Get creative with ceramics at Paint Your Style near the beautiful Savignyplatz. Be inspired by the works of the Old Masters at the Gemäldegalerie. Take a wintry lake walk around Krumme Lanke or neighboring Schlachtensee. Stroll along the East Side Gallery, an artistic 1.3-km/8-mi stretch of the Berlin Wall.

Taste some of Germany's most popular delicacies at a Christmas market. The Harlem Gospel Nights fill the ApostelPaulus-Kirche with rousing spirituality. Get into the Christmas spirit with the Market of the Continents at the Dahlem Museums. Stock up on Christmas delicacies on the gourmet food floor of KaDeWe. All aboard! Hop on the double-decker 100 bus line and explore Berlin from up top.

Whee! Go sledding down the 12-meter-high hill at the Potsdamer Platz market. Eat your way to a Christmas mood with a traditional goose at the Westin Grand Hotel. Have a wonderful Christmas with the Berlin Dream Band, playing at Berliner Dom. Watch Berlin's Eisbären hockey team play at their home rink, Mercedes-Benz-Arena. Weekends are for brunching. Try Anna Blume on Kollwitzplatz 83 in Prenzlauer Berg. Show off your figure eights on ice at HorstDohm ice-skating rink. See an original WWII bomber and more at the historical Technikmuseum. Catch a flick at Cinestar Potsdamer Platz, one of the few cinemas to play films undubbed. Happy New Year! Bring in 2016 at the giant street party next to Brandenburg Gate.

RONCALLI CHRISTMAS CIRCUS: COURTESY OF WWW.RONCALLI.DE; SHOE: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; HANUKKAH: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; HARLEM GOSPEL NIGHT: COURTESY OF THE HARLEM SINGERS SHOW, FRANZHANS 06; NUTCRACKER ON ICE: BB PROMOTION; NEW YEAR'S EVE: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; ANDREJ HERMLIN: © HAUTH.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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FIND OUT MORE AT www.kadewe.de

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Where Now | CHRISTMAS MARKETS

Merry Marke

for a Merry seas © thinkstock; next page: visitberlin, photo by wlfgang schlovien; markt der kontinente in den dahlem museen ©staatliche museen zu berlin.

Nothing gets Berliners into the holiday spirit more than a visit to a Christmas market. Hilda Hoy compiled a guide to local favorites for eating, skating, shopping, and more.

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kets

Berlin is host to myriad Christmas markets catering to every possible wish, with a fairytale children’s market, an icy winter wonderland complete with tobogganing hill, and even a vegan market popping up this month. Find your favorite with our comprehensive guide and soak up the Christmas spirit to your heart’s content.

A Touch of Culture Set on one of the most beautiful squares in the city, the Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market (pictured left) has a great location going for it and so much more. Flanked by the Konzerthaus and two grand NeoBaroque churches, the market is on the smaller side but features a decidedly more upscale feel than the larger market at nearby Alexanderplatz. Besides pretty scenery, the market also draws crowds with its program of concerts and other stage

performances, with song and dance to usher in the Christmas spirit. (Daily 11am–10pm, Christmas Eve until 6pm. www.gendarmenmarktberlin.de) On the other end of the city, the market at Schloss Charlottenburg offers an equally as elegant backdrop, with the Prussian-era palace splendidly illuminated every night with colorful lights. In addition to scores of market stands selling handcrafts and gift options and a carousel and mini roller coaster for the kids, this market’s calling card is its appeal to gourmets. In addition to the many snack stands, the market also hosts a “winter open-air restaurant,” serving Austrian cuisine in a series of heated tents. (Mon–Thu 2pm–10pm, Fri–Sun 12pm–10pm. Closed Christmas Eve. www.wvdsc.de) The Lucia Christmas Market adds a Scandinavian twist to the standard market formula. The brick buildings of the Kulturbrauerei, a former brewery complex turned cultural center, are draped in glowing lights, and fragrant burning logs in the courtyard crackle and pop. Try some elk goulash with a steaming mug of glogg, and pick up gifts like Finnish honey, fur mittens, and Danish design objects. (Mon–Fri 3pm–10pm, Sat–Sun 1pm–10pm. www.lucia-weihnachtsmarkt.de)

photo credit goes here

ason

There’s simply no such thing as a German Christmas without Christmas markets – the two are just bound together. Right from the start of December, the cheery seasonal markets begin to open up in cities and towns across the country, their twinkling lights, gay music, and tempting aromas of delicious treats signaling that the most festive season of the year has officially begun.

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Where Now | CHRISTMAS MARKETS everything. A full schedule of music and dance performances plus workshops for all Give the little ones a fairytale Christmas at ages makes this a fun indoor outing. (5–6 the Jagdschloss Grunewald market. Deep in the heart of a dark, bewitching forest lies a and 12–13 December, 11am–7pm. www. marktderkontinente.de) 16th-century royal chalet covered in snow, where the kings and dukes For a curated range of design Add a retro feel of yesteryear would rest their to your Christmas. and high-end products, pop weary bones after hunting The Nostalgic Christmas up top to the terrace at Bikini expeditions. On one weekend market on Unter den each December, this magical Linden features a vintage Berlin, a selective concept mall that’s hosting a Christmas spot hosts a fairytale-inspired merry-go-round and picturesque wooden market for the first time Christmas market. In the glow huts. this year. Upstairs of twinkling lights, Cinderella, on the spacious Hänsel and Gretel, and company terrace overlooking the regale the audience with their stories. neighboring zoo’s monkey (5–6 December, 11am–7pm) enclosure, market stands present a range of one-ofPotsdamer Platz is home to a Christmas a-kind goods and great gift market of the run-of-the-mill variety, but what’s really worth the trip is the Winterwelt, ideas from the shopping center’s boutiques. (3–6, an icy playground where kids can let off 10–12, 17–20 Dec, 10am–8pm, some steam. Take some spins around the www.bikiniberlin.de) big ice skating rink, or take a thrilling slide down the 12-m/40ft-high, 70-m/230ftWhile the smell of sizzling long toboggan run. Plastic inner tubes sausages is a standard are provided to help daredevils whiz at backdrop to Berlin’s top speed down the snowy slope. (Daily Yuletide bazaars, the Green 10am–10pm, Christmas Eve until 2pm. Christmas Market caters www.winterwelt-berlin.de) to those who prefer their sausages made of soy and Christmas a Little Differently their Christmas baking free Eager to try something a little different? from dairy and eggs. At this The Markt der Kontinente (Market of Kreuzberg market, vegans and the Continents) at the Dahlem Ethnology vegetarians (and those who love them) Museum takes Christmas around the world. will find all their favorite Christmas treats to On the first two weekends of this month, snack on, plus gift ideas like vegan fashions the market focuses first on the Americas and cruelty-free cosmetics. and then on Africa, bringing together a (12–13 December, 12–8pm. wide array of traditional handcrafts that www.greenmarketberlin.com) make perfect gifts for the person who has

Tip

Market Munchies

Christmas markets: come for the holiday spirit, stay for the food. To fortify yourself against the frigid winter temperatures, it’s a good idea to keep on eating. Here’s our guide to the tastiest seasonal delights you’ll find at Christmas markets around town. Glühwein: Red wine mulled with spices and fruit, this warming concoction is a Weihnachtsmarkt classic. Pay a small deposit to have your drink served in a festive ceramic mug that you can carry around while you browse, and take home if you choose. Grog: The boozier counterpart to Glühwein, Grog is a blend of hot water, rum, and brown sugar that will warm you right down to your toes. Kinderpunsch: An alcoholfree drink for the little ones, this hot punch is a blend of fruit juices mulled with spices like cloves and cinnamon. Rostbratwurst: No market or festival in Germany would be complete without sausages. A popular Christmas market offering is the smaller Rostbratwurst from Nuremberg, stuffed three at a time into a bun with plenty of mustard. Lángos: Though originally Hungarian, this deliciously greasy treat is a popular star at Berlin’s markets. Plate-sized discs of dough are deep-fried before being topped with garlicky sour cream, cheese, and ham. Kartoffelpuffer: Also known as Reibekuchen, these golden potato pancakes are the perfect thing to stave off a Grog hangover. Grated potatoes are mixed with flour, eggs, and chopped onions before being formed into patties and fried until crisp. Grünkohl: Chopped kale and chunks of sausage are cooked down to a hearty, stickto-your-ribs stew that is a classic German winter dish. Gebrannte Mandeln: Everything about this sounds delicious: whole almonds coated in buttery caramel syrup and then roasted until crunchy. Sold in paper cones for convenient snacking, even for mittened hands.

ice skating: visitberlin, photo by wolfgang schlovien; foods: © istock photos.

Christmas for the Kids

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THE JOY OF GIVING Nov. 27–Dec. 24, 2015 CALLIGRAPHER

Your personal Christmas greetings written in artistic calligraphy from SCHREIBSTATT. Nov. 27–28 • Dec. 4–6 • Dec. 11–12 • Dec. 18–20, 2015

PIANIST

Classical music by Sibylle Briner every Friday and Saturday as well as during our special Sunday hours

ART EXHIBITION

Romero Britto “All You need is Love!” from Dec. 13, 2015–Jan. 8, 2016 Vernissage on Dec. 12, 2015 with the artist

CHRISTMAS CONCERT by the musicians of Konzerthausorchester Berlin on Dec. 5, 2015 | 3:30 p.m.

SPECIAL SUNDAY HOURS

Shop in style on December 6 and 20, 2015, from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m.

STORES OPEN: MON.–SAT. | 10:30 A.M.–7:30 P.M. SPECIAL SUNDAY HOURS: DEC. 6 AND 20 | 1:00 P.M–6:00 P.M. TAX FREE SHOPPING IN MANY STORES

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WHERE NOW | PERSONALITY GIFTS

Annabelle Mallia makes it a snap to shop for every personality of your list.

NOSTALGICS & ROMANTICS

THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS

Take a trip back in time to the GDR era at VEB Orange (Oderberger Str. 29, www.veborange.de) and bring back the most beautiful design highlights from 1960s/70s East Germany, including plenty of retro-orange lamps and kitchenware. Or travel even further back to the Victorian era at Michal Negrin (Voßstr. 35, www.michalnegrin.com). The handcrafted collections of clothing and jewelry feature intricate lace designs and the floral arrangements of yesteryear with touches of Swarovski crystals and pearls.

A girl can never have enough shoes, and The Corner Berlin (Französische Str. 40, www.thecornerberlin.de) stocks the latest luxury items from New York and Paris, including a gallery level showcasing Louboutin pumps. For modern-day lords, Chelsea Farmer’s Club (Schlüterstr. 50, www.chelseafarmersclub.de) is like stepping back into a British country house of yore. Choose between an unconventional mix of tuxedos and tails, daywear, travel bags, plus everything else your man needs for his next trip into the countryside.

TOP IMAGE: COURTESY OF THE CORNER BERLIN

I'm all set: I've got my list of worthy friends and family members, cards and paper to wrap up the gifts, and my trusty credit card. But with so many different characters on my list, things can get confusing: Where to begin? The best thing to do is to split the crowd up by personality types, find the right store for each category, and choose the right day to enjoy the shopping experience.

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WHERE NOW | PERSONALITY GIFTS

THE TRENDY AESTHETE If the person on your list is too cool for school, there's only one thing you really can't go wrong with: a new pair of shades. Ic! Berlin (Max-Beer-Str. 17, www. ic-berlin.de) makes durable designer glasses with a feather-light, screwless spring-hinge system, plus all the appeal of a Berlin-made fashion item. Or swing by Gestalten Pavilion Store (Budapester Str. 38–50, www.shop.gestalten.com) located on the top floor of Bikini Berlin. The ideal gift spot for contemporary and innovative designs, it includes home décor, accessories, coffee table books, and kitchen items able to spruce up anyone’s dwellings.

THE ECOFRIENDLY INTELLECTUAL With its boundless selection of non-fiction, classics, sheet music, and contemporary literature, Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus (Friedrichstr. 90, www.kulturkaufhaus.de) is a present paradise for any bibliophile. Follow the signs in-store to the dedicated shop for English titles, which include many Berlin-based novels and history books on the Cold War, WWII, and life in the GDR. And to provide your book-loving friend with some exercise, pair that novel with a minimalist bicycle from VANMOOF (Walter-BenjaminPlatz 2, www.vanmoof.com). Think how great that will look under the Christmas tree!

LIVELY KIDS & PLAYFUL ADULTS Children first: For a fun gift for the nieces and nephews, head to French home-décor company Pylones (Kurfürstendamm 225, www.pylones.com). Every accessory and gadget has been turned into some kind of animal or happy-faced human and rendered in bright color, like a pussycat soap dish or coiled snake trivet. For creative lovers of quirky things, design store Siebensachen (Max-Beer-Str. 25, www. siebensachen.com), features award-winning designers Jörg Adam and Dominik Harborth, who create objects with a story to tell, like the Mozartkugel, a wooden ball that magically produces one of the renowned composer’s melodies.

We all love food, but for some, it's a religion. If you're shopping for a devotee of the epicurean life, head to the sixth floor of luxury department store KaDeWe (p. 27) and go straight to the wine shelves for the perfect Italian vintage, with a pit stop at the oyster bar for a classy break from all this shopping. For a special Christmas-blend tea, look no further than the Mariage Frères corner at Galeries Lafayette (p. 27). Or buy some Berlin chocolates from what is reportedly the longest praline counter in the world at Fassbender & Rausch (Charlottenstr. 60, www.fassbender-rausch. de), where you can also admire confectionery sculptures, such as a 2.5-m/8.2-ft-long Brandenburg Gate made from 300kg/661lb worth of dark chocolate, you can consider this stop as part of your sightseeing tour.

GETSALTEN PAVILION: STORE: COURTESY OF GESTALTEN

THE INSATIABLE GOURMAND

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MALL OF BERLIN ENTRANCE LEIPZIGER PLATZ, GROUND FLOOR WEINMEISTERSTRASSE 9B, 10178 BERLIN

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Where Now | NEW YEAR'S EVE

Ring In

Berlin Style

erlin’s reputation as a party capital has made it a top destination to ring in the New Year. And it’s not just the Brandenburg Gate celebration (www.berlin.de) with its millionplus attendees that draws the crowds. Silvester (the German term for New Year’s Eve) fêtes of all stripes abound. Revelers looking for dance-infused festivities can head to one of the city’s many celebrated clubs, including Adagio (www.adagio-silvester.de), where DJs Sir-K and OGB spin well into the first hours of 2016. No less than eight DJs get the party jumping at Matrix (p. 68), which caters to its hardcore party crowd by providing a hangover breakfast buffet to fuel you through the morning. All-inclusive drinks and panoramic views of the city’s pyrotechnic mayhem await at E4 (www.e4club.de), where the staff is already loading up the confetti guns for their bash.

Can’t decide which club to hit? The Silvester Ticket Berlin (www. berliner-silvester.de) lets you party hop between nine venues, including Arena, Kino International, and the legendary

The Grand

Postbahnhof, among others. For a Silvester evening combining refinement and revelry, Spindler & Klatt (p. 56), The Grand (p. 68), and Felix (p. 68) each offer four-course dinners followed by DJ’d parties. At the first, guests are also entertained during their meals with a variety show combining an incongruously Berlin mixture of burlesque, gospel, and a rollerblading juggler. If all you require is a view from which to watch the firework frenzy Berlin is famous for, head to Teufelsberg, the manmade mount on the city’s westside that once served as a U.S. intelligence listening station, while Viktoriapark in Kreuzberg also sees large crowds gather to count down the turn of the calendar page. And because Germanmade fireworks are legal, simply wandering the streets to watch the DIY pyrotechnics of Berliners just might be enough to keep you entertained until 2016.

Jenna Rose Robbins culled a sampling of the city’s best Silvester celebrations.

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F A L K E · P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY

STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 /13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95

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SHOPPING

Table setting by Villeroy & Boch Image below: vase by Rosenthal

Table Tops Always the "hostess with the mostess,” Annabelle Mallia seeks out the best adornments for her table. With the festive season upon us, you may find yourself preparing to host a dinner party or two. Food aside, impress your guests before they take the first bite with fine china froma Germany's renowned manufacturies. Berlin’s Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur, or KPM Berlin (p. 30), was created in 1763 when King Frederick the Great of Prussia bought a local porcelain factory. The process today is still as it was back then, with every piece being shaped, fired, glazed, and expertly painted by hand at their manufactory in the district of Tiergarten, also the location of their flagship store. For equally luxurious porcelain pieces boasting more contemporary designs, pay a

visit to Rosenthal (Kurfürstendamm 200, www.rosenthal.de), Germany’s best-known brand of luxury china, or choose from the intricate floral designs of Villeroy & Boch (Kurfürstendamm 33, www. villeroy-boch.de), founded in France in 1748, but with headquarters in Germany since 1846. As any sommelier will tell you, the glass you drink from is almost as important as what is inside, and Austrian brand Riedel is renowned for its exquisite glassware shaped to enhance the wine. Riedel glasses can be found at department store Karstadt (Kurfürstendamm 231,

www.karstadt.de), which also carries a wide selection of tableware and cooking utensils, with dedicated sections occupying an entire floor. Karstadt is also the place to go for cutlery from German brand WMF, founded in 1853 in Geislingen an der Steige as a metal repair workshop. Since dining etiquette mandates a new utensil for every course, pick up a full set of the world-famous silverware producer's 68-piece bestseller Palermo cutlery, which you can show off with your five-course Christmas dinner.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Vegan Designs

According to Berlin fashion label Umasan, humane living starts in your closet. Founding twin sisters Anja and Sandra created the world’s first high-end vegan fashion brand, which features clothing created purely from organically grown natural fibers, including shirts made from beechwood, blouses made from bamboo fiber, and algae- and zinc-enriched fabrics that are particularly suitable for those with sensitive skin. The brand’s minimalist, mostly black-and-white style incorporates Japanese cutting techniques to create flowing silhouettes balanced with tailored jackets and pants. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030 26558598. www.umasan-berlin.com

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead. INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 72-73. OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 6 December, 20 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Aveda Lifestyle Salon Aveda’s objective is to respect the environment, a mission reflected in the herbal products they use and in their commitment to the well-being of others. A cup of tea welcomes you before you retreat to the spa or hairdresser. www.aveda.de. Kurfürstendamm 26a. T: 030.88708790. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Harry Lehmann The grandson of this perfume shop’s founder continues an 80-year-long family tradition, mixing perfume from a spectrum of 50 scents. www.parfum-individual.de. Kantstr. 106. T: 030.3243582. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. C4

Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions, which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honeyand-salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4

BOOKS & MUSIC Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus Germany’s biggest selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction, kids’ books, and audio books. With over two levels of wall-to-wall books, DVDs, and CDs, all genres are covered. Mon-Sat until midnight. Friedrichstr. 90. T: 030.20251111. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Shakespeare and Sons After spending 10 years selling English and French books in the Czech Republic, this cute little store has expanded to Berlin, with an impressive range of Eastern European literature available in English translations. www.shakesbooks.de. Raumerstr. 36. T: 030.40003685. U Eberswalder Straße. F1; Warschauerstr. 74. T: 030.40003685. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

CHILDREN Playmobil Since its invention in 1974, the plastic Playmobil figurines have been capturing the imagination and fostering the creativity of children worldwide. The Mall of Berlin FunStore location offers an interactive, build-your-own-Playmobil station and countless accesories. www.playmobil.de. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20679100. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Steiff Galerie in Berlin Founded in 1880 by Margarete Steiff, this stuffed-animal company has developed into an international brand of quality cuddles. The bear Steiff created for U.S. President Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt in 1902 is the origin of the term "teddy bear." www.steiff.de. Kurfürstendamm 38–39. T: 030.88625006. U Uhlandstraße. B4

CONCEPT STORES Departmentstore Quartier 206 This multi-brand store inside the Quartier 206 luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers. www.dsq206.com. Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3

Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. Listings continue on page 27 www.wheretraveler.com 21

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IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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MCM

UNIQLO

An exclusive gift shop carrying luxury items such as silver from Christofle and Robbe & Berking, porcelain from Augarten Vienna and Hering Berlin, Venetian glassware by NasonMoretti and Venini, and a selection of watches and jewellery by Georg Jensen. Mon-Fri: 10am-7pm, Sat: 10am-6pm.

German luxury purveyor MCM has launched its new Bionic Series, a collection of unisex backpacks and bags made of innovative lightweight material inspired by the interiorlight paneling on spaceships. Solid German craftsmanship combined with pioneering materials means the Bionic line is as waterresistant and durable as it is luxurious.

High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters. Tauentzienstr. 7B/C. T: 030 29028260 www.uniqlo.com/de

Kurfürstendamm 63. T: 030 75543716 www.jensrichard.de

Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030 8811104 www.mcmworldwide.com

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ON THE MARK HIT EVERYTHING ON-POINT AT BIKINI BERLIN

The Contemporary Christmas Market 3rd – 6th | 10th – 12th | 17th – 20th of December

THE CONCEPT SHOPPING MALL Z O OLOGISCHER GARTEN

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Love

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Style Seductions

SC H Ü TZ EN ST R

These spring fashions are guaranteed to turn heads

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Checkpoint Charlie

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VIVE LA MODE!

DISCOVER THE WORLD OF INTERNATIONAL FASHION, BEAUTY PRODUCTS AND MUST-HAVE ACCESSORIES AND ENJOY EXQUISITE FRENCH FOOD AND DELICACIES AT GALERIES LAFAYETTE BERLIN

SUNDAY SHOPPING IN ADVENT DECEMBER 06TH + 20TH 1PM – 8PM MONDAY – SATURDAY 10AM – 8PM GALERIES LAFAYETTE · FRIEDRICHSTRASSE 76 – 78 · WWW.GALERIESLAFAYETTE.DE U FRANZÖSISCHE STR./STADTMITTE · S FRIEDRICHSTR. GALERIESLAFAYETTEBERLIN

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COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M HALLHUBER Hollister HUGO BOSS

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SHOPPING

Beautification

Gone are the days of red lips and rouged faces: Cosmetics expert Melanie Dal Canton says that women are now after a healthy, more natural which is why she opened MDC Cosmetic, a beauty emporium in Mitte. Step inside for a rejuvenating treatment, a personal consultation, or to simply browse the exquisite selection of products for the body and soul, including the renowned Australian brand Aesop, Susanne Kaufmann’s natural cosmetics, fragrances made at Santa Maria Novella in Florence, and – Melanie’s secret tip – the natural, vegan, and kosher beauty products from Beverly Hills’ Josh Rosebrook. Knaackstr. 26. T: 030 40056339. www.mdc-cosmetic.com www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2. T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

DEPARTMENT STORES Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

FOOD & GOURMET Fassbender & Rausch Berlin’s undisputed temple of confections features the world's longest chocolate counter and eyepopping sculptures, such as a model Reichstag made from 300kg (660lb) of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marheineke Markthalle One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors. Mon-Fri 8am8pm, Sat 8am-6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Markthalle Neun One of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, the 1891 building has undergone a revival

in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market (Fri–Sat 10am–6pm). See website for other foodie events, such as the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43 T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de. Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080. U Französische Straße. E3

Winterfeldt Schokoladen The chocolate shop/café's gorgeous wooden interior dates back to 1892, when the space was still a pharmacy. Sample gourmet hot chocolates and stock up on chocolates from around the globe. Daily B&L. www.winterfeldt-schokoladen. de. Goltzstr. 23 T: 030.23623256. U Nollendorfplatz, U Eisenacher Straße. D4

MALLS & ARCADES Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

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SHOPPING BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular

meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platzarkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fashion Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

BCBGMAXAZRIA

Bimba y Lola Founded by two sisters, the Spanish label specializes in fashion and accessories – all designed by a team in their 20s – that combine modern flair with Spanish playfulness. www.bimbaylola.com. Weinmeisterstr. 9b. T: 030.28096770. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20644265. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in high-quality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi. com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS

The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Faux-fur coat by Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Bimba y Lola (this page). Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: ben|weide 030.28884550. Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality U Mohrenstraße. E3 materials and ensures all work is done under Cinque fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Exquisite elegance for men and women defines Mulackstr. 1. this label, whose products are inspired by the T: 030 40054048. Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

The global label makes everything from evening gowns to everyday apparel, all with an eye for what makes a woman look and feel good. www.bcbg.com. Schlüterstr. 39. T: 030.88624770. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Porcelain coffee filter by KPM (p. 32).

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www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Claudia Skoda She used to party with Bowie and Iggy Pop and transformed knitwear into high fashion. Skoda is one of the most famous Berlin designers and this beautiful new boutique houses her latest figurehugging ensembles. www.claudiaskoda.com. Mulackstr. 8. See website for more locations. T: 030.40041884. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Darklands Relocating to a new space every few seasons, Darklands is a nomadic, multi-branded men’s fashion store. It stocks clothing by leaders in German avant-garde design with a strong preference for the darker end of the color spectrum. It’s hard to find, so see website for instructions. www.darklandsberlin.com. Heidestr. 46–52, Building 7. S Hauptbahnhof. D2

ESCADA Cool glamour, sensual femininity, and modern elegance are the hallmarks of the ESCADA brand, offering women not only a glamorous couture line but also must-have everyday fashion, as well as a range of accessories such as shoes, bags, jewelry, and fragrances. www.escada.com. See website for more locations. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Evelin Brandt Evelin Brandt offers an urban, feminine look with a skilful mix of elegance, casualness and extravagance. The label’s distinctive designs highlight a woman’s individuality and personal charisma. Whether in beautiful jackets, flowing dresses, or accessories, customers will be strikingly well dressed. www.evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr. 153a. T: 030.2044444. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

G-Star RAW For more than 20 years, Dutch label G-Star RAW has been producing urban clothing inspired by military apparel made with raw denim. On the Ku’damm since 2013, the flagship store responds to the label’s philosophy, combining their original designs and materials with friendly expert service. www.g-star.com. Kurfürstendamm 16. T: 030.88001973. U Uhlandstraße. B4

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Juicy Couture The LA label most famous for its velour track suits (often with the logo emblazoned across the derrière) is available at the Berlin shopping mecca of KaDeWe. www.juicycouture.com. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. U Wittenbergplatz. C4 Signature pieces fuse dynamic patchwork cuts and femininity, first realized in their classic Lamella bag. In the last few years, motivated by the success of their cocktail dresses, fashion designers Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Röhler also specialize in bridal wear. www.kaviargauche.com. Linienstr. 44. T: 030.28873562. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Liu Jo Since 1995, this major Italian fashion company has been aiming to bring out every woman’s natural beauty with elegance and quality. Contemporary and glamorous, practical yet professional, Liu Jo’s collection ranges from clothing to shoes to beachwear, including selections for men and

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Kaviar Gauche

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 29

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SHOPPING children. www.liujo.com. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20624744. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marc O’Polo

MaxMara

Strellson

One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4

This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag. com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

For nearly five decades, Marc O’Polo has stayed true to its philosophy of authenticity, creating casual, wearable lifestyle clothing with an Patrick Hellmann The Arkonaplatz flea upscale feel. From womenswear market, open on Among the most successful luxury and menswear to children’s Sundays, is the place to brands in the fashion world, Patrick clothing and home accessories, a go for GDR retro Hellmann stands for timelessness, visit to a Marc O’Polo boutique has objects. elegant designs, quality materials, plenty in store. www.marc-o-polo.de. and extravagant details. There are also Kurfürstendamm 220 (check website for clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, other locations). and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. T: 030.88923901. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Kurfürstendamm, U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4 U Uhlandstraße. C4

One Green Elephant This Japanese, European designed brand brings innovative fashion for women and men. Designed as ecer-lasting go-to brand, they create highquality garments that are affordable and trendy. www.onegreenelephant.com. Mall of Berlin. Leipziger Platz 12. T: 030.20216742. U Mohrenstraße. E3

rich&royal

This women’s fashion store on the first floor of the Mall of Berlin carries everyday clothes for passionate women. All items are designed and made in Europe, boasting a modern, glamorous, and bold style with a slightly rock-oriented touch. Open 9am–10pm Mon–Sat. www.richandroyal.de. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. S Potsdamer Platz. E3

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Home Décor Käthe Wohlfahrt The family-run shop is dedicated exclusively to Christmas, featuring everything from tree ornaments and nutcracker figurines to gingerbread

Deck The Halls It’s Christmas all year round at Käthe Wohlfahrt. This traditional Christmas decoration shop is open 12 months a year with its two floors of yuletide wonderland. Browse through a seemingly endless selection of traditional German decorations like Christmas pyramids (candlepropelled carousels), nutcracker soldiers, nativity scenes, and cuckoo clocks. In the middle of the store, a rotunda wraps around an eight-/26ft-high tree decorated with over 4000 glass ornaments and lights. You might just find yourself breaking out into Christmas carols as you peruse the shelves. Kurfürstendamm 225/226. www.wohlfahrt.com

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SHOPPING houses and traditional German Christmas pyramids from the Erzgebirge but which are now popular countrywide. Kurfürstendamm 225/226. T: 800.4090150. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Friedrichstr. 176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Jens Richard

Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Fans of beautiful design are sure to find something for they need for home at Jens Richard, an emporium of porcelain, glass, tableware, and jewelry carefully sourced from renowned producers around the world. The perfect table settings are a particular focus. www.jensrichard.de. Kurfürstendamm 63. T: 030.75543716. U Adenauerplatz. B4

KPM Berlin

Chopard

Juwelier LorenZ

A family business since 1874, one of Berlin's most prestigious watchmakers and jewelers showcases Rolex, Cartier, Raymond, and Tudor. www. juwelier-lorenz.de. Rheinstr. 59. The Kurfürstendamm T: 030.8512020. U Friedrichhas been likened Wilhelm-Platz. Off Map to Paris's Champs-

Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur was born. Today known as KPM Berlin, the Élysées. Juweliere Leicht company still makes exquisite, This jewelry shop has its own world-renowned tableware and manufactory and also carries luxurious decorative goods. At its Tiergarten brands like Bulgari, Utopia, Noor, and headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory Meissen, as well as proprietary designs in the city, visitors can take a tour, enjoy the café, manufactured with gold and precious stones. and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. Wegelystr. 1. T: T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 030.390090. S Tiergarten. C3

MEISSEN Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, and figurines, all identified by the signature crossed swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 21. T: 030.88625085. U Kurfürstendamm. B3

VEB Orange Take a trip back in time. This little store has selected the most beautiful highlights from 1960-70s East German fashion, furniture, and accessories with lots of – you guessed it – orange. www.veborange.de. Oderberger Str. 29. T: 030.97886886. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Niessing Each piece of Niessing jewelry tells a story about the jewelry house, in business since 1873, and comes with a personal touch from its creator. Lively pieces in gold, platinum, or stainless steel. www.niessingberlin.de. Stilwerk/Kantstr. 17. T: 030. 31809075. S Savignyplatz. B4

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de.

LUXURY

Brands AIGNER www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3

BOTTEGA VENETA www.bottegaveneta.com. Kurfürstendamm 59-60. T: 030.70550770. U Adenauerplatz. B4

BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3

DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER www.dorothee-schumacher.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 20946099. U Französische Straße. E3

Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ETRO www.etro.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946120. U Französische Straße. E3

Jewelry & Watches Bucherer

MCM

With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com.

www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2

PALMERS www.palmers.at. Kurfürstendamm 214. T: 030.88627867. U Uhlandstraße. C4

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4

MOOD cutlery by Christofle. Jens Richard (this page)

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4

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Schloßstraße 34, 12163 Berlin | Potsdamer Platz Arkaden 7, 10785 Berlin | Kurfürstendamm 214, 10719 Berlin | Alexa, Grunerstraße 20, 10179 Berlin | Karstadt, Kurfürstendamm 231, 10719 Berlin www.palmers.at

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SHOPPING

Claudia Koksch gets ready for a fabulous night out. 2

1. Swarovski Store, Tauentzienstr. 18. 2. Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 3. HUGO, www.zalando.de 4. Mille Miglia GTS Chrono, CHOPARD Boutique, Kurf端rstendamm 186 / 187. 5. Swarovski Store, Tauentzienstr. 18. 6. Buffalo London, Rosenthaler Str. 46. 7. Sarar, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 8. Cinque, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 9. Navyboot Store, Kurf端rstendamm 40/41. 34 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2015

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Chopard Boutiques Berlin Kurfürstendamm 186/187 · phone +49 (0) 30-700 969 80 Mo.-Fr. 10:00-19:00, Sa. 10:00-18:00, 6.12. & 20.12.2015 13:00-18:00

IMPERIALE

KaDeWe · Tauentzienstraße 21-24 · phone +49 (0) 30-2060 398 30 Mo.-Th. 10:00-20:00, Fr. 10:00-21:00, Sa. 9:30-20:00, 6.12. & 20.12.2015 13:00-20:00 www.chopard.com

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SHOPPING Budapester Schuhe

www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. Also visit their Rolex boutique on the Ku’damm. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

Shoes & Accessories

Classic and instantly recognizable, luxury accessory brand Coach specializes in leather items for both men and women, and is particularly famous for its bags, often inspired by vintage themes. Find it at Galeries Lafayette, Friedrichstr. 76-78, or online on www.coach.com

AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Michal Negrin

Buffalo Boots One of the most famous shoe brands in Europe. www.buffalo-shop.de. See website for more locations. Kantstr. 31. S Savignyplatz. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 46. U Weinmeisterstraße. E2

Falke Flagship Store

At Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt (p. 27) you can design your own chocolate bar for only €4.

Coach

206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

It is said that no wardrobe should be without a pair of Budapester shoes. The high-quality shoes with their unique features, such as the low heel, wingtips, and Lyra perforations, are an absolute classic. Many other high-end brands available. www.budapester.eu. Kurfürstendamm 43. T: 030.88624206.U Uhlandstraße. B4

This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke. com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4

LIEBESKIND Berlin High-quality leather accessories and shoes, from casual to classic, designed in Berlin. de.liebeskindberlin.com. See website for further locations. Neue Schönhauser Str. 8 T: 030.24781600 F3

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier

The Israeli designer has been creating a unique lifestyle look for 20 years, with an eye on fashion, jewelry, and home décor. Inspired by vintage themes with romantic and Victorian elements, Negrin’s creations are made with Swarovski crystals and luxe fabrics. www.michalnegrin.com. Mall of Berlin T: 030.20143466. U Mohrenstraße. E3

MYKITA Hand-assembled in their manufactory in Mitte, these designer glasses combine precision craftsmanship with new technologies. What started out in an old nursery (Kita) has now received worldwide acclaim. www.mykita.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 6. T: 030.67308715. S+U Alexanderplatz, U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Zeha Founded over 100 years ago, the Zeha label earned success with its sports shoes, which became the official sneakers of East German Olympic athletes. Its Carl Häßner Collection, still a bestseller today. www.zeha-berlin.de. Prenzlauer Allee 22. T: 030.44034607. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Shopping Essentials sizing GUIDE

shoes UK

clothes Euro

women 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

Xs s m l

6 8 10 12 14 16

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

men (chest) 41 42 43 45 46 47

s m l

34 36 38 40 42 44

Children 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

women 36 37 38 39 41 42

men 7 8 9 10 11 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

Children 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

UNIQLO Leipziger Platz 12 Tauentzienstr, 7B/C

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SUPER THIN, SUPER WARM.

A REVOLUTIONARY THIN FABRIC THAT CONVERTS BODY MOISTURE INTO HEAT AND RETAINS IT.

WOMEN SHIRT 14,90 €

SHOP ONLINE: WWW.UNIqLO.COM/DE

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Bit te b ea chten Sie, da s s d ie Fa r b en u n d P ro p o r tio n en d er hier a b g ebil d eten A r tikel zu ei na n d er a n d er s au s fal l en kö n n en . D ie s ka n n d r u ck te ch ni s ch b e d i n gt s ei n . Al l e A r tikel s i n d er hältl ich , s o l a n g e d er Vo r rat reicht. 11.10. 2 015, UNI Q LO EUR O PE LTD, G er ma n Bra n ch , Tau ent zien s tra ß e 7 B/C, 10789 B er l i n.

SIGHTSEEING

Wintry Wonderlands

ome December, frosty temperatures don’t stop bundled-up Berliners from heading outdoors. The city's residents frequent not only the many Christmas markets (p. 10) that seem to sprout up wherever there is free space but also other fun and festive events suitable for adults, children – and even four-legged friends. Berlin residents are famously dog friendly, and it shows at the Dog Christmas Market (Hüttenweg 90, www. hundeweihnachtsmarkt.berlin), an annual yuletide showcase devoted to pooches and their faithful companions. In a garden in the Grunewald forest ,in the far reaches of West Berlin, vendors catering to canines display

their handcrafted goods, from seasonal sweaters to bone-shaped biscuits. Pet parents can defrost in the adjacent heated house and enjoy their own classic holidayfare and drink treats such as Glühwein, while their furry companions snack on biscuits and other treats. For frosty fun and some exercise in Tiergarten park, visit Café am Neuen See (S Tiergarten). With its twinkling Christmas lights, mulled wine, and crackling fire, the lakeside venue makes for a lovely winter afternoon. Every year, the café also sets up a small

court outside for playing Eisstockschiessen, a German variety of curling. Children will particularly adore the Weihnachtszug, Berlin's Christmas train. Since the 1920s, the colorful, festive U-Bahn train adorned with ornaments and pine wreaths has rolled through Berlin's underground. Passengers sample seasonal sweets on board, and Santa Claus himself makes a cameo, handing out gifts to kids. For just €5, board at U-Bahn Uhlandstraße (U1) for a 60-minute ride. For bookings from 29 November until 21 December, call 030 25625256.

Eisstockschiessen: © thinkstock; Dog and dog biscuits: ©istock photos; weihnachtszug: BVG/ Katrin Knoke

With the holidays upon us, Rachel Stern discovers Berlin’s jovial and very creative spirit.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grâce in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Open daily 10am–6pm (to 5pm Fri). Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under6s free. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Philharmonie The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire,

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

photo by bernd schönberger.

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals due to its curvy shape, the building that is now home to the House of the Cultures of the World was originally built as a congress hall in 1956 but quickly became a symbol of Western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm, and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Daily 10am–7pm. Prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Once Upon A Time The winter season is underway at the Märchenhütte theater, playing, almost-daily, fairytale classics such as Little Red Riding Hood and Hänsel and Gretel in cozy little huts in Mitte's Monbijoupark. Though the performances are in German, the bright characters are sure to keep even English-speaking little ones entertained. For booking information, visit www.maerchenhuette.de. www.wheretraveler.com 39

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SIGHTSEEING wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. T: 030.467986666. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte.

Historic Sites

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Asisi’s Wall Panorama

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

East Side Gallery

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaustmahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately run exhibit explores the crafty inventions used by East Germans to escape East Germany, including Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot-air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts. Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50.

Thank you for keeping Berlin clean Please make sure you use our 22.000 waste baskets

www.BSR.de/sauber

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SIGHTSEEING

The biodiversity wall at the Museum für Naturkunde www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

Built in 1936 by prisoners as a model concentration camp, Sachsenhausen saw mainly political prisoners in its first years, while Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” arrived a few years later. Daily 8:30am–6pm (midOct–mid-Mar until 4:30pm); Mon museums and exhibitions closed. Free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun until 6pm.

Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters

of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A preserved segment of the Berlin Wall runs along exhibition grounds. To Jan 3: Germany 1945: The Last Months of the War. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße, S+U Potsdamer Platz. E4

A T-Rex Like No Other The newest resident of Berlin is massive, ferocious, and fearsome, but luckily you won’t be running into Tristan down a dark alley at night – the 12 m (40ft) Tyrannosaurus rex is locked up safely in the Museum of Natural History (Museum für Naturkunde, p. 42). The 70-million-year-old skeleton unearthed in Montana in 2012 has been painstakingly studied, restored, and reassembled and will be on display at the Mitte museum from 17 December until at least 2018. It’s not just the only T. rex skeleton on show in Europe at the moment, it’s believed to be one of the bestpreserved specimens ever discovered – the skull, for example, is 98 percent complete. The exhibit will tell the story of this enormous carnivore, with researchers piecing together how Tristan might have lived – and how he met his demise. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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SIGHTSEEING T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E4

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Domäne Dahlem City Farm

Thank goodness for Berlin’s children's museums, where your little ones can let off steam, keep warm, and learn at the same time. Each year the Labyrinth Kinder Museum (this page) in Wedding reinvents itself for families to continuously discover. Its current theme is construction, with a child-safe construction site inspiring creativity, with everything from city planning to public transport and building. Heading east, you’ll find the MACHmit! Museum für Kinder (this page) in Prenzlauer Berg, with games focusing on the works and life of painter Paul Klee (until 6 December). The permanent fittings also include an old-fashioned soap and printing shop, a mirror room, and a huge climbing gym surrounded by arts and crafts stations. Fun for the kids and a break for the parents are guaranteed.

through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main

Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org. Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100. S Botanischer Garten. Off Map

Children’s Museum Labyrinth One of Berlin’s two children’s museums. Two floors of activity stations on the theme of construction. Pleasant outdoor area for the warmer days. Open Mo-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 1–6pm, Sun 11–6pm. €4.50 for all over-3s (3.50 on Fridays). www. labyrinth-kindermuseum.de. Osloer Str. 12. T: 030.800931150. U Osloer Straße then tram. Off Map

attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that Children’s Museum provide ample indoor space, MachMit making the venue suitable for Say goodbye to 2015 on MUST SEE A hands-on museum rainy days. The zoo boasts the 31 Dec with the Silversterlauf, for children. There is a climbing largest number of species and a mini-marathon through structure, a maze, a soap making total animal residents in the Berlin's Grunewald. www. workshop, a cinema, and lots of world. The aquarium, one of the berliner-silvesterlauf.de activities to encourage discovery largest in Europe, features large through playing. Tue–Sun 10am– tanks with piranhas, sharks, and 6pm. €5.50 for all over-3s. alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or www.machmitmuseum.de. aquarium: €13/6.50, under-5s free. Combined Senefelderstr. 5/6. Zoo-Aquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquariumT: 030.74778200. S Prenzlauer Allee. F1 berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Currywurst Museum

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset.

Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–6pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70.

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. The legendary wax museum also has a section explaining how the figures are made. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www. naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Tempelhof Airport Park MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke. Off Map

COURTESY OF LABYRINTH KINDER MUSEUM

Learning Via Play

A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-Luise-Str. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

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SIGHTSEEING Tiergarten Park Created as hunting grounds for the Electors of Brandenburg, the park we know today was designed in the early 1800s by landscape architect Peter Joseph Lenné and includes a pond with boat rentals and a café, as well as many pleasant trails to explore. The park also houses a zoo, a number of embassies, and the Schloss Bellevue, the residence of the President of Germany. S Tiergarten, S Bellevue. C3, D3

Potsdam Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €12/8. www.spsg. de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Tours & Guided Walks Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban

lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway

human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24047991.

Original Berlin Walks Offering eight themed walking tours in summer and four in the winter. Themes include the Third Reich, Jewish life in Berlin, Potsdam, the Cold War, gay Berlin, and Christmas markets (in December). No advance booking required, just show up at the meeting point shortly before the tour begins. www.berlinwalks.de. Neue Bahnhofstr. 9-10. T: 030.3019194.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. Drivers must know how to drive a manual transmission. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

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Bernhard Kretzschmar (1889–1972): Emporkömmlinge (Anstreicher), 1939. Öl auf Leinwand, 59 x 85 cm. Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Nationalgalerie / Andres Kilger. © VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2015; Hamburger Bahnhof – Museum für Gegenwart – Berlin. Berlin-Tiergarten, Invalidenstr. 50. © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin / Maximilian Meisse; Karl Hofer (1878–1955): Die schwarzen Zimmer (II. Fassung), 1943. Öl auf Leinwand, 149 x 110 cm. Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Nationalgalerie / bpk / Jörg P. Anders. © VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2015.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Art Absolution In Berlin, art is unconventional not just in its design but also in how it’s displayed. Rachel Stern visits one of the city’s most striking museums.

ith its former factories colorfully converted into art galleries, nightclubs, and startup tech hubs, Berlin is known for its creative use of space. I found one of the most striking examples to be Hamburger Bahnhof (p. 51) the one-time terminus of the BerlinHamburg railway, today serving as a sprawling contemporary art museum. Situated just down the street from bustling Hauptbahnhof, Berlin’s main train station since 2006, the Hamburger Bahnhof stayed vacant for decades, as it sat on the no-man’s-land between East and West Berlin. The large, castle-like building was

reopened as the Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art) in 1996. Now, its eclectic works, ranging from the vivid pop art of Andy Warhol to the scattered sculptures of German artist Joseph Beuys, are housed in a brightly lit labyrinth of 13,000 square meters. It is in these halls that we can now view one of Germany’s richest art assortments, hailing from one of its darkest chapters of history. The exhibition The Years of Darkness. Stories of a Collection. 1933–1945 (until 31 July) includes masterpieces deemed degenerate and seized by the Nazi regime. Major works by artists such as Picasso, Otto

Dix, and Käthe Kollwitz line the museum’s jagged corridors. They are unconventionally juxtaposed with paintings praised as high art by the regime during the same period, produced by artists on state commissions. Until 17 January, another section devoted to the prestigious Preis der Nationalgalerie 2015 winners showcases a selection of today’s German artists, from the images of performance artist Christian Falsnaes to the politically provocative pictures by the collective Slavs and Taters, all accompanied by sporadic sound and light. A former train station has proven a fitting platform for art that is evolving and moving in space. www.wheretraveler.com 45

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 13 Mar: Max Pechstein – Pioneer of the Modern Art. 100 works from the museum’s collection, including some rarely-shown paintings. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

DDR Museum

The Art Supermarket Have you ever dreamt of becoming an art collector? The 15th Berliner Kunstsupermarkt offers more than 5000 original works of art made by young artists, with prices ranging between €59 and €330. The event’s aim is to help aspiring artists become known while also opening the art market to art lovers with smaller budgets. Ever since it was launched in 1998, the “art supermarket” has been gathering more and more fans every year because, as its creators say, art makes people happy. Open from 30 October to 30 January (Mon–Sat 11am–8pm) as a pop-up store inside shopping center The Q. Free entry. Q 205 (The Q.), basement, Friedrichstr. 67–70. www.kunstsupermarkt.de.

MUSEUMS

Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 16 May: The Struggle for Troy. Restored in the 19th century by the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, the sculptures depicting the Trojan Wars are on display once again. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs,and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. From 2 Dec: Moving Forward celebrates the 100th anniversary of the founding of Bauhaus with the construction of a new building.

THE CITY SKYLINE

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 1 Jan: Expressiveness in Art. The Crucifixion by the Master of Meßkirch from the Würth Collection features 30 historical works from the Kunsthammer Würth, the historical “cabinet of art” from one of Germany’s most renowned private collections. To 30 Mar: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the Land of Orpheus. The coins of the ancient region of Thrace, located in presentday Bulgaria, Greece, and European Turkey, help us understand the process of change in ancient societies. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 3 Jan: Layers of Time takes a look at the changes and influence of the Berlin Zeughaus throughout history. To 3 Jan: Unification explores the challenges faced by the newly-unified Germany after the fall of the Wall. To 10 Jan: 1945–Defeat, Liberation. New Beginning exposes the efforts of various European nations made to rebuilding and recovering from WWII.Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www. dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 1 Dec: Homosexuality_ies focuses on the past 150 years of queer history in Germany; in conjunction with the Deutsches Historisches Museum. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the

A HISTORIC TIMELINE OF BERLIN’S ARCHITECTURE

1906

1920s

1927

1932

1951

1957

Hackesche Höfe: The courtyards remain a prime example of Altbau architecture.

Onkel Toms Hütte: Bauhaus architect Taut creates an airy estate in the Grunewald forest.

Tempelhof Airport: One of Europe’s three iconic pre-WWII airports opens its first terminal.

Shell-Haus: The rationalist façade juts foward and folds six times as it grows in height.

Karl-Marx-Allee: The boulevard’s high-rises reflect the grandeur of the socialist regime.

Haus der Kulturen der Welt: An example of West Berlin’s post-war modern style.

KUNSTSUPERMARKT: COPYRIGHT DAVID DEGEN, KUNSTSUPERMARKT; HACKESCHE HÖFE, REICHSTAG DOME, KARL-MARX-ALLEE, HAUS DER KULTUREN DER WELT: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; ONKELTOMS HÜTTE: PHOTO BY BARBRO BJÖRNEMALM/FLICKR.COM; TEMPELHOF AIRPORT: TEMPELHOFER PROJECT GMBH; SHELL-HAUS: PHOTO BY MARK PRATT; KINO INTERNATIONAL: ROBERT AGTHE/FLICKR.COM; NEUE NATIONALGALERIE KULTURFORUM, BERLIN-TIERGARTEN © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN. FOTO: MAXIMILIAN MEISSE; POTSDAMER PLATZ: © BERLIN PARTNER - FRITSCHFOTO; JEWISH MUSEUM: COURTESY OF JEWISH MUSEUM.

Brücke Museum

ADV ERTORIAL

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 15 Dec: In a Foreign Country presents first-hand stories of displaced Jews after the Holocaust. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4 Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. To 15 Jan: The Pacifist Ernst Friedrich: Special exhibition of the powerful photography of the pacifist and founder of Berlin’s first anti-war museum. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett

MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 24 Jan: The Botticelli Coup presents the revival of interest in Sandro Botticelli and the controversial circumstances surrounding the acquisition of the collection in the 19th century. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. From 3 Dec: I. Menzel! commemorates the Berlin-based artist’s 200th birthday and his lasting legacy. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau

COURTESY OF SPSG.

KINO INTERNATIONAL: ROBERT AGTHE/FLICKR.COM; NEUE NATIONALGALERIE KULTURFORUM, BERLIN-TIERGARTEN © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN. FOTO: MAXIMILIAN MEISSE; POTSDAMER PLATZ: © BERLIN PARTNER - FRITSCHFOTO; JEWISH MUSEUM: COURTESY OF JEWISH MUSEUM.

Käthe Kollwitz Museum

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 6 Dec: Piet Mondrian. The Line. Artistic developments of one of the most iconic artists of the 20th century. To 13 Dec: Russia and Germany follows the two nations’ journey from confrontation to cooperation on the celebration of the 70th anniversary of the end of WWII. To 10 Jan: From Hockney to Holbein focuses on 250 of the 16,000 works found in the Würth private collection. To 31 Jan: Germaine Krull. Photographs highlights one of the 20th century’s most important photographers. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Art As Emancipation The Berlin Secession was the very first art movement that accepted and embraced female talent. Founded at the end of the 19th century, the movement paved the initial path to female emancipation, not just in the arts, but also in social norms and conventions. In an ongoing effort to recognize the early pioneers, the Liebermann Villa (p. 51) presents the exhibition Women of the Secession II, focusing on artists Julie Wolfthorn, Charlotte Berend-Corinth, Maria Slavona, and Augusta von Zitzewitz and their emancipatory work. Until 29 Feb.

Menschen Museum

Museum of Asian Art

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. €14/12. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Route. To 6 Jan: Jaipur and Amber in the Photography of the 19th Century. Prints and panoramas of the two lively and picturesque cities that captivated the first photographers of India. To 6 Jan: RAGAMALA examines music and love in relation to Indian music theory. To 10 Jan: Tigers, Cranes,

1959–1965

1968

1990s

1999

2001

2014

Kino International: The Karl-Marx-Allee Kino was the main theater for movie premieres in the GDR.

Neue Nationalgalerie: Mies van der Rohe’s museum was part of the city’s redevelopment.

Potsdamer Platz: The former heart of Berlin. Famed architects worked for years to rebuild the bustling square.

Reichstag Dome: Norman Foster’s design is emblematic of German reunification.

Jewish Museum: Libeskind designed a crooked building symbolizing the difficult history of German Jews.

Bikini-Haus: The 1957 building has now been renovated as part of West Berlin’s comeback.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

OF A N E RA From the Berlin Secession to the November Group 19 November 2015 to 3 April 2016

History Begins Here A good way to start any tour of the city is to get an overview of Berlin’s past at the Story of Berlin museum (this page), where 800 years of city history are compiled in 23 rooms of a Ku’damm building. The interactive exhibition contains digestible explanations of the city’s (sometimes terrifying) history and is particularly suitable for families with children. Highlights are the multimedia exhibits, which allow you to experience the everyday life of Berliners throughout the eras, and the guided tour through an original Cold War nuclear shelter, located underneath the museum. Visitors with smartphones can download a supplementary app to enhance the visit and a questionnaire to encourage older children to explore the museum independently, while the Little Bear and His Friends game, which can be obtained from the cashier, will keep the little ones entertained as they search for Berlin’s mascot among the exhibits. Beautiful Women. Symbolic in the art of the Far East, these recurring motifs are found in this exhibition of large-scale folding screens. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

significant images and photographs of the Meiji Era, a time of rapid Europeanization in Japan during the late 19th century. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum for Communication

Museum The Kennedys

An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once housed Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors, while iPads make perfect tour guides through the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. To 21 Feb: What Belongs Together Is Now Growing Together! explores development of the postal and communication network in former East Germany after 1990. Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3

When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Berlin’s favorite US president. Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. €5/2.50. www.thekennedys.de. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Bröhan-Museum www.broehan-museum.de

Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 10 Jan: Pale Pink and Light Blue displays more than 200 of the most

Almost 800 years of Berlin history arranged into 23 rooms, each describing a different theme or era and an atomic bunker for visitors to better understand the WWII air raid experience. An entertaining way to learn about the development of the city. Open daily 10am–8pm. €12/5. www.story-of-berlin.de. Kurfürstendamm 208. T: 030.88720100. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly

courtesy of museum story of berlin

Museum of Photography

Museum Story of Berlin

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Jackson Pollock (American, 1912—1956) Mural, 1943 (detail), Oil and casein on canvas, 242.9 x 603.9 cm Gift of Peggy Guggenheim, 1959.6 University of Iowa Museum of Art; Reproduced with the permission from The University Iowa Museum of Art © Pollock-Krasner Foundation/VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2015

Jackson Pollock’s Mural Energy Made Visible 25.11.—10.4. curated by dr. david anfam and organized by the university of iowa museum of art

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Unter den Linden 13/15, Berlin 10 am—8 pm, Mondays admission free; deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.com

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MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 10 Jan: Changing Identities explores ancient Egyptian works merged with modern-day living subjects. From 11 Dec: Beards: Between Nature and Razor explores the significance of beards throughout history and Berliners’ fascination with facial hair. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 24 Jan: How Islamic Art Came to Berlin celebrates the founding and lasting impact of the Museum of Islamic Art, located inside the Pergamon Museum. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Spy Museum Berlin Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €18/14. Daily 10am-8pm. www.spymuseumberlin.com. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3

Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. From 20 Nov: Max Beckmann and Berlin reveals the lasting artistic impact Berlin as a city had on artist Beckmann, even after he emigrated to the Netherlands. To 15 Feb: Ich kenne kein Weekend – The René Block Archives is dedicated to gallery owner Block’s influence and role in advancing art in Berlin. To 21 Mar: The Dialogic City. One of four exhibitions put on by leading Berlin art institutions, revealing how the planning for the city comes to life. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Anton Corbijn is known for having immortalized celebrities such as U2, Metallica, and Allen Ginsberg (pictured). Catch about 600 of his works all month at C/O Berlin (this page).

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography

bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 10 Apr: Jackson Pollock’s “Mural”: Energy Made Visible. Rarely on loan outside of University of Iowa’s Museum of Art, Pollock’s work is on display in Berlin after undergoing 18 months of cleaning in Los Angeles. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 31 Jan: Anton Corbijn. Retrospective. A retrospective of over 600 of Corbijn’s works, split up into two themed series. To 31 Jan: Hikari retraces the story of Kobe through Kobe-born photographer David Favrod’s work. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www. co-berlin.org. Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 Under-18s get free

Dalí – The Exhibition

entry to all museums on Museum Island.

The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery

MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 24 Jan: The Botticelli Renaissance explores the influence and appropriations of Botticelli’s work in modern art. To 31 Jan: Botticelli in Reproductive Style features interpretations of Botticelli’s work by different contemporary artists. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Art galleries

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museums & galleries Hamburger Bahnhof CL904The permanent collection of this former railway

station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 31 Jul: Neue Galerie: The Years of Darkness. Works from the Neue Nationalgalerie created between 1933-1945, including works by Pablo Picasso and Käthe Kollwitz, are on display here until the building is completely renovated. To 13 Mar: A Few Free Years features recently donated works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard

in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmutnewton.de. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. To 29 Feb: Women of the Secession II presents the female artists that drove the Berlin Secession art movement over a century ago. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermannvilla.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 10 Apr: Cindy Sherman – Works from the Olbricht Collection. Sherman’s works explore cultural tropes and the struggle of the individual against a collective. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Commercial Galleries Galerie Eigenheim, 4–31 Dec: Auflagenarbeiten und Kleinformaten: group exhibition. Linienstr. 130. www.galerie-eigenheim.de; Westphal Berlin: Kunst und Projekte, 10 Dec–18 Jan: Whistleblower: Freedom of Speech. Future Voice. Kurfürstendamm 207/208; Galerie Root, 11–18 Dec: Ute Wöllmann: Schatten. Rosen. Schatten. www.galerie-root.de; Galerie Robert Morat | Schauraum Berlin, 5 Dec–30 Jan: Roger Eberhard: Aussicht. www.robertmorat.de; Camera Work, 12 Dec–27 Feb: Christian Tagliavini: Voyages Extraordinaires. Kantstr. 149. www. camerawork.de

HERE WE ARE!

Facets of Life

We are all unique, yet all the same. The Menschen Museum, the world’s first museum of Dr. Gunther von Hagens’ BODY WORLDS dedicated to the human body, invites the visitor to embark on a journey through life and inspires visitors to contemplate what makes us human.

www.MeMu.berlin

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Open daily

Monday to Friday: 9 am–7 pm Saturday and Sunday: 10 am–7 pm

TV-Tower, Alexanderplatz

Panoramastraße 1a 10178 Berlin, Germany

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DINING

‘Tis The Season To Be Hungry

or the little ones, Christmas is made by what Santa leaves for them under the tree. But for us grownups, the festive occasion requires more than just a gaily wrapped trinket or two. Memorable holiday meals are a must for a happy Christmas season, regardless of whether it’s a roast bird with all the trimmings you crave or something more experimental than traditional. Just don’t forget to reserve a table wherever you go. For Christmas with more than a touch of luxury, there’s the Ritz-Carlton Hotel (Potsdamer Platz 3, www.ritzcarlton.com), which is pulling out all the stops for an extravagant holiday season. Every Sunday this month and daily 25–27 December, the hotel’s Brasserie Desbrosses hosts a decadent Christmas brunch starring a

smorgasbord of hot and cold dishes, made-to-order crepes, petits fours, and other treats by the in-house pâtissier, plus lobster, oysters, and unlimited champagne. Unlike North Americans, who hold their biggest Christmas feast on 25 December, for Germans, the most important meal is Christmas Eve dinner. On this magical night, the Ritz-Carlton lays out a lavish buffet. To go the traditional German route, roast goose – crispy skin, juicy meat – is the dish to try. The Westin Grand Hotel’s Relish restaurant (Friedrichstr. 158–164, www. westingrandberlin.com) serves this signature Christmas meal every night until 23 December, pairing the goose with the requisite potato dumplings, chestnuts, and stewed red cabbage. On Christmas Eve, the goose gives way to creative European-

fusion prix-fixe menu options and live piano music. Break from the Yuletide dinner mold and get your dip on at fondue restaurant Ars Vini (Sredzkistr. 27, www.arsvini.de). The special Christmas dinner menus, served nightly from 24–26 Dec., include traditional Swiss fondue as well as options like duck or seafood fondue. And, of course, there’s also that classic standby, the Chinese Christmas dinner, long a favorite among American Jewish families, a tradition that came about due to Chinese restaurants’ tendency to stay open when all the others closed for the holiday. To exchange roast duck for fiery Sichuan beef and delectable steamed sea bass, book a table at Da Jia Le (Goebenstr. 23, www.dajiale-berlin.de), one of the best Chinese restaurants in town.

the ritz carlton berlin: photos by chris cypert and ricarda spiegel.

Enjoy memorable holiday meals both traditional and otherwise all month long. Hilda Hoy rounded up a few tempting options.

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RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

SAVE THE DATE

Tickets are available at Eventbrite.de

EVE

Category n. 1

Category n. 2

NEW YEAR’S EVE WELCOME TICKET from 10pm

Category n. 3

PARTY TICKET from 12:30am

Presale price: € 25 booking fee not included

Price at door: € 30

Welcome drink Finger food buffet € 40

from 6:30 pm

Champagne reception with hors d‘oeuvre Four-course dinner € 149 booking fee not included

booking fee not included

After-party included in the price

Hirtenstraße 4 | 10178 Berlin Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET

WB THE GRAND.indd 1

DINNER TICKET

The after-party is included for our dinner guests.

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

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DINING

FINE DINING 5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

First Floor Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45. T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Frühsammers Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. €€€. Thu– Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammers-restaurant.de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030.89738628. S Hohenzollerndamm. A5

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank has built himself a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Vegetarian options available. Warm, wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio for the warmer months. €€€. Wed– Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-LinckeUfer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel,

Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine. Its reputation as one of Berlin’s go-to gourmet destinations is well earned. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapester Str. 2. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Festive Treats

Les Solistes Refined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restaurant in the Waldorf Astoria widespread renown. Under the leadership of star chef Pierre Gagnaire, the menu has clear French influences while daring to incorporate flavors from India, the Middle East, and further afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.waldorfastoriaberlin.com. Hardenbergstr. 28. T: 030.8140000. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer. de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Skykitchen Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far

STOLLEN Made with dried fruit, nuts, spices, and a marzipan center, then rolled in powdered sugar, Stollen is sure to change your mind about the oft-maligned fruitcake. The centerpiece of Dresden's annual Stollenfest (5 December) is a several-ton version of the fruit bread, which is even paraded through the streets before being cut into pieces.

LEBKUCHEN The hard gingerbread used to make Lebkuchen hearts can be found year round at German fairs, but it’s the soft variety, which comes out during the holiday season, that everyone anticipates. The Nürnberger Lebkuchen that have become the most famous today can be found in the gourmet section at KaDeWe (p.27).

BAUMKUCHEN This literally translates to "tree cake," due to its characteristic golden layers resembling the rings of a cut tree trunk. To get this effect, a very thin layer of batter is repeatedly brushed onto a spit and allowed to bake on an open flame. Pick up your sample at Christmas markets around town (p. 10).

MARZIPANKARTOFFELN You’ve probably already noticed the Germans love marzipan, but they also love potatoes, so trust them to create a special Christmas marzipan treat that's rolled into little balls and dusted with cocoa and cinnamon for that freshly harvested spud look. A box of Niederegger Lübeck marzipan potatoes can be bought at local supermarkets.

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

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East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue– Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

Vau At once luxurious and minimalist, the Michelinstarred Vau is one of the highest caliber restaurants in the city. Headed by star chef Kolja Kleeberg, who has since expanded upon his fame with a TV cooking show, the kitchen combines the best of French and German culinary traditions. €€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.vau-berlin.de. Jägerstr. 54–55. T: 030.2029730. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. Religious influences aside, the thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Matreshka

CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF

Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus

Schneeweiss

German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the

high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Glass Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195. T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the

bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Dining in the historical heart of Berlin in the Nikolaiviertel. Risotto world champion and top chef Holger Zurbrüggen celebrates new German cuisine at affordable prices.

German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. When in Mitte, try their second location at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

KREUZBERG Hasir

Insider‘s tip: daytime menu starting at e15.

Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www. jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

T: 0 30 30 88 21 56 Email: info@balthazar-spreeufer.de

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Restaurant Richard French/Swiss. The nondescript street belies the splendor of Richard’s gourmet creations and

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DINING and ginger soup, a Thai chicken salad with nuts, or mushroom risotto with greenpeas and cardamon. €€–€€€. Daily D. www.balthazar-spreeufer.de. Balthazar Spreeufer 2. T: 030.30882156. U Klosterstraße. F3

Bandol sur Mer French. This tiny, hip, and very trendy French restaurant deserves accolades for its food, though part of its popularity is no doubt due to the fact that Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie famously dined here. Reservations a must. €€–€€€. Daily D. www.bandolsurmer.de. Torstr. 167. T: 030.67302051. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

With two great sushi restaurants, Sasaya and Omoni, already in the area, the recent opening of Ushido in Prenzlauer Berg is making this quite the hotspot neighborhood for top Japanese cuisine. They take their meat very seriously at this subdued and elegant restaurant, as the name might indicate: Ushido translates loosely as “the way of beef,” and this is one of only a handful of places in Berlin where Japan’s famous, intensely marbled, and richly flavorful Wagyu beef is on the menu. Come by at lunchtime and you’ll have don rice bowls and tasty bento boxes to choose from, but the dinner hours are when Ushido really shines. Using a gas grill set in the middle of each table, diners get to try their hand at yakiniku, Japanese barbecue. Round off the meal with an excellent sake or a tipple of Kuro Kirishima, a sweet potato and rice liquor. Lychener Str. 18. T: 030 55242448. www.ushido-bbq.com interior, which includes carved wooden ceilings and stained-glass. The 19th-century architecture gets a modern boost from the décor. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.restaurant-richard.de. Köpenicker Str. 174. T: 030.49207242. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kotbusser Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4

Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna

steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant – down a concrete back alley and up graffitied stairs. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to the mastery of celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3

Dóttir Scandinavian. After Dóttir opened in the spring of 2015, chef Victoria Eliasdóttir quickly became known as something of a prodigy. The confident and very talented 20-something Icelandic chef creates minimalist yet potently delicious Nordic cuisine, with an emphasis on the freshest seafood available. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.dottirberlin.de. Mittelstr. 40. T: 030.330060760. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Dudu

MITTE

Asian Creative. This trendy spot (whose name means "papaya" in Vietnamese) just off busy Rosenthaler Platz has earned many fans with its modern, fresh pan-Asian cuisine. Inventive fusion-type sushi is a mainstay of the menu, plus noodle and rice bowls that take advantage of Asian seasoning. €€. Daily L&D. www.dudu-berlin.de. Torstr. 134. T: 030.51736854. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt

The Grand

Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts

an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Balthazar 2 Spreeufer International. The new branch of the Charlottenburg establishment, this central restaurant is bound to become a popular destination among Berliners thanks to its creative dishes,which include a tomato

German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin. com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat,

COURTESY OF USHIDO

The Way Of The Beef

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though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

– Indulge yourself – Advent at Maximilians.

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag

Friedrichstr. 185 · U-Bhf. Stadtmitte www.maximiliansberlin.de

German. The Reichstag is much more than a sightseeing destination. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. Located on the roof of the Reichstag building, the restaurant boasts splendid views in addition to the refined, modern German cuisine. Reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22. T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

Prenzlauer Berg I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54. T: 030.66408710. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Tiergarten

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ENTERTAINMENT

the nutcracker: Photo by bettina stöSS; aurora dickie: photo by fernando marcos; Duet: photo by steve vaccariello.

Bringing The Nutcracker To Life Aurora Dickie will be playing Clara in Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker, the holiday season’s most popular ballet. Solveig Steinhardt went to the Staatsballett rehearsal studios to have a chat with her. Why is the Nutcracker such a holiday show? Because it happens in the winter; it’s a Christmas story. And it portrays the holiday spirit very well. A family receives friends at home, exchange presents, and then there’s the snow scene. It’s such a wintery scenario, very fulfilling and warming. That sounds like a show children would like. Yes. There are a lot of children on stage, so it’s easy for the kids in the audience to identify with them. The Nutcracker plays a lot with fantasy and magic. There are dolls and a “land of sweets,” and these are very appealing themes for kids. What is your favorite scene? The snow scene. It comes right after the battle scene, in which the rats fight against the soldiers to a very powerful music. All of a sudden, Clara thinks the Nutcracker is dead, but he’s not. There’s a change of scenery, and they find themselves in the forerst. The music for this pas de deux is just magical. It

is my favorite music in The Nutcracker. This is also where I come in, as it’s the first scene where Clara is a grownup. In the previous scenes, Clara is played by a child who is a student here at the academy. Do you think it’s easy to understand, or do you have to know the story? It’s good to know the story in advance, but once you’ve understood that it’s a Christmas show, it’s very easy to follow the plot. You don’t have to be a ballet expert to understand what’s going on in The Nutcracker. Which also makes the show a great place to start for those who have never seen a ballet before. Tell us a bit about you became a ballerina. I was born in Brazil and my mom was a dancer, so I pretty much started dancing at home. She taught me until I was about 11, then I went to the Bolshoi school in Brazil (which is affiliated

with the Bolshoi in Moscow), where I trained daily throughout my teenage years. It was very challenging, and I had to give up a lot, from going out with friends to staying at home, but in the end it was very rewarding. I started working for small ballet companies in Brazil, and then joined the ballet company in Washington, D.C. I spent six years there before moving to Berlin a few months ago. How do you like the city? Berlin has a very warm audience – and an educated one, too. They like and understand what they see. I also like what I’ve seen of the city, although our schedule is very tough, with daily rehearsals from 10am to 6pm at least, so I haven’t had much time to get around yet. The Nutcracker plays on 15, 16, 25, 26, 29, 30 Dec, Deutsche Oper (p. 60). www.wheretraveler.com 59

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ENTERTAINMENT Ballet & Opera Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 2, 6, 10 Dec: Aida (Verdi). 4, 9, 13, 28, 31 Dec: La Bohème (Puccini). 12, 29 Dec: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 20 Dec: Tosca (Puccini). 18, 22 Dec: L’Elisir d’amore (Donizetti). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper

Grown-Up Boy Band With voices as smooth as velvet and timbres ranging from operatic to pop, the 12 Tenors are a “boy“ band of tenors with a rich and diverse repertoire that includes arias like Nessun Dorma and pop acts like a fully choreographed Michael Jackson medley. With their popular vocal harmonies and different virtuoso ranges, they aim to prove that music has no age, and that it can be enjoyed by all generations. Catch them at Tipi am Kanzleramt from 4 to 9 December.

Take an absorbing journey through different cultures and religions. Discover astrology and alchemy, the significance of numbers, witchcraft, amulets and oracles.

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1, 11, 21, 26 Dec: Snow White and the 77 Dwarves. 7 Dec: A Baroque Christmas. 9, 15, 31 Dec: My Fair Lady (Loewe). 10, 16, 22 Dec: Der Feurige Engel (Prokofiev) 11, 14, 18, 21, 26 Dec: West Side Story (Bernstein). 12 Dec: La Belle Hélène (Offenbach). 30 Dec: Die Zirkusprinzessin (Kálmán), concert version. www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 1 Dec: Multiplicity. Forms of Silence and Emptiness. Music by Bach, Chor. Nacho Duato. 4 Dec: Onegin (Tchaikovsky). 8, 10, 19 Dec: Hänsel and Gretel (Grieg). 15, 16, 25, 30 Dec: The Nutcracker

Test your magical powers and explore the approach to intuition and creativity. Enjoy the rippling of water with the Chinese bowl or encipher the massage of your name.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

(Tchaikovsky). www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 5, 6, 30 Dec: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 10, 12, 17, 20, 23 Dec: Faust (Gounod). 13, 18, 26, 29 Dec: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 19, 22, 25, 27, 31 Dec: La Traviata (Verdi). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Classical Concerts Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

previous page: the 12 tenors, photo by susannah v. Vergau; this page: irish celtic: photo by philippe fretault.

Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 1 Dec: I Musici Di Roma (Avi Avital mandolin) play Corelli, Vivaldi, and Locatelli. 17 Dec: Orchestra della Svizzera Italiana (cond. Ashkenazy) performs Prokofiew, Mendelssohn, and Tchaikovsky. 20 Dec: Andrej Hermlin and his Swing Dance Orchestra. 23 Dec: The Rundfunk-

Sinfonieorchester Berlin (cond. Marek Janowski, piano Marc-André Hamelin), music by Franck and Bizet. 31 Dec: The Berliner Symphoniker (cond. Shambdal) perform Bizet, Rachmaninoff, Verdi, and others. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbertvon-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Make a wish.*

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year, many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 10 Dec: Philippe Jaroussky and the Freiburg Barockorchetser perform Telemann and Bach, cond. Petra Müllejans. 20 Dec: The Bolshoi den Kosaken performs the best songs of the old Russia. 25 Dec: Christmas organ concert. 26 Dec: The great Berlin Christmas concert, cond. Carlberg. 27 Dec: Tschechische Symphoniker Prag performs Verdi Gala, cond. Doubravsky. 28 and 29 Dec: The Brandenburgische Staatsorchester Frankfurt Oder performs Beethoven’s 9th Symphony, cond. Howard Griffiths. 31 Dec: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin performs Sylvester Concert, cond. Salterling. In the Kleiner Saal,

Theatre with English surtitles An Enemy of the People by Henrik Ibsen Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On December 2, 8 pm *The Little Foxes by Lillian Hellman Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On December 27, 8 pm Richard III. by William Shakespeare Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On December 30 and 31, 7.30 pm

Ich lüge wirklich schlecht.*

Premiere im Dezember Ophelias Zimmer Mit Texten von Alice Birch Regie: Katie Mitchell Am 8. Dezember um 20 Uhr

Irish Celtic Ever since Michael Flatley brought his show Riverdance across the Irish Sea, Irish step dance has become a worldwide sensation. From 15 to 20 Dec, Admiralspalast (p. 63) hosts Irish Celtic, a dance-based musical set in an ancient pub and featuring pub songs, folk songs, and original compositions. The show will be starring professional dancers from Flatley’s famous shows, who will bring the joyful spirit of Ireland with their quick-stepping talents.

*Ungeduld des Herzens von Stefan Zweig Regie: Simon McBurney Am 19. Dezember um 20 Uhr

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ENTERTAINMENT

STOMP Universally! Clap, snap, and stomp along! Originally hailing from Brighton, the high-energy and uniquely inventive percussion show STOMP has been captivating audiences worldwide for over 20 years and will be ending 2015 with a lively beat for its Berlin audience. The driving rhythms are created using everyday items such as garbage cans, lids, basketballs, brooms, buckets, matchboxes, bags, chairs, and the musicians’ own bodies, fueling the rhythmic basis of music and its universal appeal. From 26 to 31 Dec at Admiralpalast (p. 63).

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other acclaimed ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 1 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Roth, soprano Anna Caterina Antonacci) perform Lully and Ravel. 5–7 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Fellner) perform Mozart and Bruckner. 10 Dec: Deutsches SymphonieOrchester Berlin (cond. Honeck) perfoms Bruckner, Poulenc, and Mozart’s Requiem. 16, 17, 19, 20 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle) perform Debussy. 29, 30, 31 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sir Simon Rattle, violin Anne-Sophie Mutter) perform works by Saint-Saens, Massenet, Poulenc. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of

European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.

Dance & Experimental Spaces Dock 11 Studios & Eden***** Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden***** Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) This confluence of culture is renowned for its cutting-edge shows and hip performances. www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that host a wide variety of performances. www.radialsystem. de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

photo by steve mc nicholas

Swing in the New Year. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

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Sophiensaele

Havanna

Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Odeon

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed–Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

KulturBrauerei

This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and popular new releases. www.yorck.de. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Zoo Palast

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

The historic seat of the Berlinale film festival offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de. Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Rock, Pop, Jazz, World A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.bflat-berlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Café Bilderbuch

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 5 Dec: PUR in concert. 8 Dec: Night of the Proms. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom

This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts Barenboim is not just one of and pop-rock productions to the world’s most acclaimed mixed martial arts and dance. 10 Beethoven interpreters, he’s Dec–1 Jan: Roncalli Christmas also the director of the Circus. www.tempodrom.de. Staatsoper. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 4 Dec: VNV Nation. 5 Dec: Kontra K. 10 Dec: Bilderbuch. 11 Dec: Mark Forster. 13 Dec: Gregor Meyle. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 4, 5, 6, 11, 12 Dec: Nusscracker on Ice. 15–20 Dec: Irish Celtic. 26–31 Dec: Stomp. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 www.wheretraveler.com 63

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on this month Plays & Musicals Beyond The Horizon All month, Theater am Potsdamer Platz

Blue Man Group All month, Bluemax Theatre

Chicago: THe Musical All month, Theater des Westens

Stars In Concert All month, Estrel Festival Center

Wunderkammer All month, Chamäleon Variete

The Wyld All month, Friedrichstadt-Palast

Ballet & Classical

The nutcracker (Tchaikovsky) 15, 16, 25, 30 Dec Staatsballett

The Magic Flute (Mozart) 12, 19 Dec, Deutsche Oper

Aida (Verdi) 2, 6, 10 Dec, Deutsche Oper

The bolshoi den kosaken 20 Dec, Konzerthaus

The best events in town

West Side Story 11, 14, 26 Dec, Komische Oper

la belle helene (offenbach) 12 Dec, Komische Oper

Don giovanni 13, 18, 26 Dec, Staatsoper

Pop, Rock, Jazz & more mark forster 11 Dec, Columbiahalle

night of the prom 8 Dec, Mercedes-Benz Arena

gregor meyle 13 Dec, Columbiahalle

pur 5 Dec, Mercedes-Benz Arena

roncalli christmas circus

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

10 Dec–3 Jan, Tempodrom (p. 56)

Berlin

Roncalli Christmas Circus

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ENTERTAINMENT Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4

Bimah, The Jewish Theater Most shows are in German, but frequent Yiddish song performances appear on the roster. www.juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.2511096. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bluemax Theater

www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-DietrichPlatz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 5–9 Dec: The 12 Tenors. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

Volksbühne An experimental multimedia theater and cultural

center offers plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Daily shows, except Monday. www.stage-entertainment.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Wunderkammer. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions, and variety shows at this 1920 theater. All month: The Wyld, a €10-million Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. Shows every day except Monday. www.palastberlin.eu. Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions, many of which with English surtitles. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Sternbergtheater Twice a week, this theater inside the Spielbank Berlin hosts comedian Karsten Kaie’s hilarious English-language show How To Become A Berliner In One Hour? Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. www.sternbergberlin.de. Toll number: 01806.570070. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Theater am Potsdamer Platz The 1800-seat theater designed by Renzo Piano features musicals and international performances. All month: Beyond the Horizon, musical (German with English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www.stage-entertainment. de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Theater des Westens One of Berlin’s most popular musical and operetta theaters. All Month: Chicago: The Musical. The Tonyand Oscar-winning play returns.

30. DEC 15 / Wednesday / 8.00 pm 31. DEC 15 / Thursday / 4.00 pm KONZERTHAUS BERLIN MAREK JANOWSKI

Jacquelyn Wagner / soprano Karen Cargill / alt Andreas Schager / tenor Egils Silins / bass Rundfunkchor Berlin Nicolas Fink / chorus master

LUDWIG VAN BEETHOVEN Symphony No. 9 D minor, Op. 125

Tickets +49 (0)30-20 29 8715 tickets@rsb-online.de www.rsb-online.de

In cooperation with

On 30.12. broadcasted by

an ensemble of

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NIGHTLIFE

The Height Of Handcrafted Cocktails When Erich Dos Santos set out to open a new bar, his intention was to create an establishment that served cocktails of the highest standard. It wasn't long before he realized that the only way to achieve the quality he desired was to make the majority of the ingredients in house. The result was Limonadier, which opened in December 2012, and quickly became a magnet for connoisseurs. The menu, a mix of reimagined classics and house originals, is the product of intuition and testing, with staff members conjuring dream flavors (“Let’s make a walnut liqueur!”) and then creating a mixed drink that best complements the notes and aromas. Out of such creative ideations were born Limonadier’s staples, including the Lavendel

Gimlet, with house-made lavender syrup. Menu items are dubbed with the names of notorious barflies and iconoclasts, such as the Mary Pickford, a blend of white rum, pineapples and berries, and champagne; and Bukowski’s Lemon Beer, a refreshing concoction that's still potent enough to merit its namesake. The staff enjoys surprising customers by showing them just how good genuine alcohol can taste. “People find they like a drink they didn’t before, because of the quality,” said Dos Santos, who also personally designed and built much of the décor, from the shelves and banquettes to the artwork, even hand-pasting individual pages of Goethe to an entire wall.

On weekends, it’s not unusual to find the 140-plus-seat establishment buzzing with the energy of a nightclub. But during the week, the atmosphere is far more intimate, with the staff often taking time to chat with regulars, recounting the stories behind the drinks or explaining the lengthy process involved in making the ingredients, which can take as long as six months. The lightly fruity, vodka-based Berlin at Night is a perennial favorite, but the signature Limonadier cocktail is the Kreuzberg Spritz, an infusion of gin, hibiscus liqueur, and ginger lemonade. “That’s our drink,” said Dos Santos with pride. Nostitzstr. 12. T: 170 6012020. www.limonadier.de

Courtesy of limonadier

Jenna Rose Robbins sampled the intoxicating inebriants at one of Kreuzberg’s lesser-known watering holes.

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Beer Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Matrix

Casinos

Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18. T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

Spielbank Berlin

The Pearl

A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Clubs Adagio A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dancehall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorativechic style. Fri–Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.2589890. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Berghain/Panorama Bar Known as the “world capital of techno,” the club straddling the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain (thus the name) is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultraselected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed celebrities like Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3

Horns & Hooves This Prenzlauer Berg newcomer is an eccentric combination of a club, a piano bar, a cabaret, and a circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. U Eberswalder Str. F1 photo credit goes here

Kater Blau

House of Weekend Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-endberlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

One of the most luxurious clubs in town attracts the poshest crowds, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten. G4

Soda Club This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to electro and techno. www.soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Wine & Cocktails Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton. com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4 www.wheretraveler.com 67

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ESSENTIALS Useful Information Emergency numbers

T DA

ADVICE

RECO M M EN

EXPERT

O N CI E R G E S

Berlin

F R O M B E R LI

N’

Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes Museum Berlin Pass: allows three days of unlimited access to major museums. www.visitberlin.de Berlin Welcome Card: public transport for three days and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. www.visitberlin.de City Tour Card: as above, but conditions vary, so best to check which is most suitable for you. www.citytourcard.com

Berlin Airports Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

Ask The Concierge Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Hendrik SchulzGerchow, assistant head concierge at Waldorf Astoria Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org Describe your perfect day in Berlin. Breakfast in our hotel restaurant or at Cafe Tomasa at the Villa Kreuzberg, followed by a walk around Museum Island, including a visit to the Neues Museum and the Pergamon Museum. In nice weather, lunch at Café am Neuen See in Tiergarten, with a bike ride through the park. Dinner would be at a small and simple Italian restaurant in Kreuzberg, like Il Casolare by the Admiralbrücke. Then I would conclude the evening in a nice bar, such as Green Door at Winterfeldtstr. 50 (Schöneberg).

Courtesy of waldorf astoria berlin

Where would you take out-of-town visitors? Treptower Park, Köpenick, East Side Gallery, Museum Island, the TV Tower, Hackesche Höfe, and Potsdam. What is your secret Berlin tip? I always recommend a bicycle tour along the Berlin Wall Trail. It provides great insights into the transformation of the city. Describe Berlin in three words. Cosmopolitan, crazy, diverse. What do you do after work? My free time belongs mostly to my young

son and wife. I like to spend it in our Friedrichshain neighborhood, at the Sunday fleamarket on Boxhagener Platz and at the Schneeweiß restaurant. Tell us something about your hotel. From the rooms of the Waldorf Astoria Berlin, guests can enjoy a wonderful view over the city, including the zoo. Particularly impressive are our gourmet restaurant Les Solistes by Pierre Gagnaire, serving its modern French cuisine, the long-established Lang Bar and Romanische Café, and the library on the 15th floor, available to all our guests. Which event do you recommend in December? A highlight in December is certainly the year-end concert series at the Philharmonie. With conductor Sir Simon Rattle and famous violinist Anne-Sophie Mutter, it is sure to be unforgettable. The coziest place in Berlin? The Marjellchen restaurant (Mommsenstr. 9). What Berlin spot would you recommend for romance? Insel der Jugend, an island on the Spree, with its great beer garden.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.

Getting Around Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you www.wheretraveler.com 69

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ESSENTIALS can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.60. Day tickets cost €6.90 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €16.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €29.50.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel

Pretty Heidelberger Platz station, like many of the stations along the U3 line, was built between 1910–1913 and still bears the genteel appeal of that era. Because the tunnel here had to be constructed deeper than usual, the station was designed with grand, cathedral-like domed ceilings held high with carved stone columns. of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

detailed and comprehensive knowledge of the local market. www.realestate.bnpparibas.de. Neues Kranzler Eck. Kurfürstendamm 22. T: 030.884650. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Engel & Voelkers

Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Real Estate Agencies

Rent A Bike

Allianz

Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations.

Offers select properties and is developing a number of building projects in various areas of Berlin. www.allianz-realestate.com. Joachimstalerstr. 10-12. T: 030.212343562. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Architects, economists, certified real estate agents, and apprentices serve international clients and provide real estate services, building project planning, and supervision, as well as analyses and market reports. www.guthmann-estate.com. Blücherstr. 22. T: 030.69004240. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Berlin Capital Investments

HIHC Horvat

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.

Toll number: 0180.6003690

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

Money Services Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a "tax-free form" when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date

Ad Hoc Immobilien Specializes in Berlin and Brandenburg real estate sales. Apartments, entire buildings, villas, and more. www.adhoc-immo.de. Hohe Allee 36, 15366 Neuenhagen bei Berlin. T: 03342.259560. Off Map

One of the world’s leading service companies in the provision of high-quality residential and commercial real estate and yachts in the premium segment. www.engelvoelkers.com. Bleibtreustr. 34-35. T: 030.88001188. S Savignyplatz. B4

Guthmann Estate

Specializes in apartment sales in central Berlin for both investment and self-use. Visit website to search for small units, big apartments, or penthouses in Berlin’s most popular neighborhoods. www.berlin-capital.com. T: 030.52009700.

This real estate service agency will analyze clients’ housing needs and find an apartment to buy or rent on their behalf. HICH Horvat also offers relocation services for expats and international clients. www.hihc.de. Olympische Str. 1. T: 030.33099930. U Neu Westend. Off Map

Berlin Hyp Immobilien

Virtu - Finest Real Estate

Helps clients better understand the German real estate market and offers a wide range of commercial properties, from office buildings to industrial estates to shops. www.berlinhyp-immobilien.de. Budapester Str. 1. T: 030.25999908. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Experts in the field of real estate, law, and economics joined to set new standards in the field of real estate marketing and consulting in Germany. www.virtu.com.de/en/. Jägerstr. 58-60. T: 030.20679590. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlin Yield Estate Residential and commercial buildings in Berlin. www.berlinyieldestate.com. Unter den Linden 16. T: 030.68324467. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlinmaegleren Covers a wide range of property types, from villas to apartments, and also offers rental services. Second branch in Prenzlauer Berg. www.berlinmaegleren.de. Rankestr. 30. T: 030.61202398. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

BNP Paribas Real Estate With its own subsidiaries and a close-knit network, this real estate agency is present nationwide. Covers all relevant real estate markets and ensures

Your Place Berlin These real estate agents and mediators offer personalized services and free consultations, promising to negotiate better deals for their clients. They specialize in clients who live abroad, offering to perform all research and to visit the apartments before the client’s arrival. www. yourplaceberlin.com. Willibald-Alexis-Str. 2. T: 030.53064083. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Ziegert Immobilien Has a large portfolio of apartments in all of Berlin’s neighborhoods and helps clients understand the German real estate market, offering advice on investment possibilities. www.ziegert-immobilien. de. Schlüterstr. 54. T: 030.88035350. S Savignyplatz. B4

The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

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TRANSPORT MAP

BVG licence number: bvg-0079.13, 4 May 2015.

ESSENTIALS

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HOW TO READ THIS MAP:

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10/11/2015 11:19

[ WHERE IN BERLIN]

My Perfect Day

Visitors to Berlin will have heard at least a bit about the tragic history of Jewish people in this city. But what’s something about Jewish life, The New heritage, or culture Synagogue in in today’s Berlin that Mitte would surprise them? Berlin has more than 13 synagogues and the Jewish Museum here is the most popular and well-visited museum in the city. How did you end up living in Berlin? I was born in New York, grew up in Germany, went to college in New York, and then lived in Israel for six years. I returned to Germany to go to graduate film school in Cologne. But xxxxxxxxx Berlin was the happening city then, and I was drawn here because it reminded me so much of New York. A Kreuzberg façade

Tell us about a place you love in your neighborhood. My favorite dessert place is called Sweet to Go at Ludwigkirchplatz. They make the best chocolate fudge cake and raspberry crumble in the city. I also like the unofficial Thai picnic

Myriam Halberstam [Writer and Publisher]

Myriam Halberstam is the founder of Ariella Books, a Berlin-based publishing house dedicated to creating books for kids on a variety of Jewish topics. The first publisher of its kind in Germany, Ariella Books got its start with a book written by Myriam herself, and has since released a variety of titles in both German and English. Buy them in Berlin at the Literaturhandlung at Joachimsthaler Str. 13.

The canal in Kreuzberg

every weekend in Preußenpark where you can buy Thai food from vendors sitting on the grass. You have the entire day free. How would you spend it? On a sunny day, I love to go to the market on Maybachufer, by the canal in Kreuzberg. If it is raining, I’d browse through the books at the Literaturhandlung store, which carries an extensive selection of books on Jewish topics – including ones I’ve published. The Krumme Lanke U-Bahn station

www.ariella-books.com www.ariella-verlag.de

What part of the city do you call home, and what drew you to it? I live in the Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf district, near the Ku’damm. It is actually a very Jewish neighborhood and I like that. It is nicknamed “Charlottengrad” because of all the Russians that live here too. Back when I moved here, it wasn’t as posh as it is now, but it wasn’t as run down as East Berlin still was at that time. Having lived in the East Village while in New York, I had experienced gentrification, dangerous areas, and having no supermarkets around, and didn’t care to do that again.

When you have friends visiting you from out of town, where do you take them? I like to take friends to the East Side Gallery in Friedrichshain to see what’s left of the Berlin Wall there. I also love to give friends a tour of the different art deco and Beaux-Arts U-Bahn stations in Berlin, such as Mexikoplatz, Krumme Lanke, and Fehrbelliner Platz.

MYRIAM HALBERSTAM: PHOTO BY HEIKE STEINWEG; KRUMME LANKE: © PENN STATE UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES ARCHITECTURE/FLICKR.COM; ALL OTHER IMAGES: © ISTOCK PHOTOS.

What led you to start a company publishing kids’ books on Jewish topics? A few years after my daughters were born, I realized there were no fun and modern Jewish children stories. I didn’t want my kids longing for the appeal of Christmas merchandising, but rather feel they had some characters of their own that they could identify with. So I created Golda the Hebrew-speaking horse and wrote A Horse for Hanukkah. This was almost five years ago. My kids loved it, the book became a huge hit, and that was my company’s first publication. Through my book, a non-Jewish friend’s children became fascinated by Hanukkah and wanted to celebrate Hanukkah as well as Christmas.

74 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2015

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Underground car park at Alexanderplatz (open 24 hours a day)

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