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Berlin
01.16
CONTENTS
See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com
The Plan Let’s get started
The Guide The best of Berlin
10
SHOPPING
20
5 Editor’s Note
XX
6 Hot Dates
Head west to Schloßstraße, one of Berlin's most popular shopping destinations.
Highlights of this month's events, from Swan Lake to a Chinese circus troupe.
SIGHTSEEING
32
6
XX
Tropical greenhouses, vibrant flea markets, an abandoned sanatorium, and more.
58
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
36
XX
Get a glimpse of life behind the Berlin Wall. DINING
42
Isabell de Hillerin Shopping and people-watching tips from one of Berlin's favorite fashion designers.
32
Stage sensations, from Broadway classics to Vegas-style shows.
Also Inside
NIGHTLIFE
50
53 Ask The Concierge
Follow in the footsteps of English novelist Christopher Isherwood.
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PAGE 56
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32 Out Of The Cold, Into The Green
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BY JENNA ROSE ROBBINS
Get ready for Berlin Fashion Week
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Uncovering Berlin's notorious role in Cold War history.
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A selection of simple yet stylish items that underscore the notion that less is more.
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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.
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tsd am e
Berlin
J A NU A R Y 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM
ESSENTIALS
53
14
Tilla Gabb -Durieux Linkk rie ri Köth le-TTTeerg-Park sttr. r itit-Pr en ner om. Strr.
Sandra Bösemüller of the Regent Berlin divulges her city secrets.
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ENTERTAINMENT
46
e-Str Str.
CIRCUS: © CHINESE NATIONAL CIRCUS; DEUTSCHLAND 83: © DEUTSCHLAND 83, COURTESY OF RTL.; BIKINI HAUS: COURTESY OF BIKINI BERLIN; MICHALSKY: COURTESY OF MICHALSKY; PARROTS: COURTESY OF BIOSPHERE POTSDAM; PILLOW BY TYPE HYPE.
58 My Perfect Day
Atone for the gluttonies of XX Christmas and start the year with some healthful eating.
B Mu
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4 W H E R E B E R L I n I J A N UA R Y 2016
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WELCOME TO BERLIN
Hello, 2016! We've just said goodbye to 2015 and here we are, ready for another great year of exploration and discoveries in this magnificent city. Here are three of my resolutions for the new year.
l museum Internatiotna exhibition
1. Eat more (and better) chocolate: Cold weather should never again translate into "miserable mood." On the contrary, it is the perfect excuse to pay a visit to Winterfeldtschokoladen (Goltzstr. 23, www. winterfeldt-schokoladen.de) and order a cup of thick hot chocolate, or peruse the wooden shelves of this former pharmacy for cocoabased delights that will satisfy my addiction.
PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK
3. Improve my history knowledge: And Berlin is just the right place to do that. This year I plan to visit the Plötzensee prison and memorial, where the Nazis executed more than 2800 political opponents and members of the resistance. On a similarly terrifying note, I also want to visit the WWII bunker in Reinhardtstraße. This windowless and (I can imagine) slightly claustrophobic cube served as a fruit storage facility during the GDR era and was a techno club in the 1990s, but since 2008 it has been transformed into a contemporary art gallery (www.sammlung-boros.de) by eccentric art collector Christian Boros, who also created his penthouse atop the bunker, complete with a garden. SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN
(worth
2,80€)
open daily:
mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)
Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial
2. Relax: We all need a bit of pampering, and after giving spa vouchers to my friends for their birthdays last year, it's time I tried out Vabali (www.vabali.de), the Balinese spa in Wedding. With its interconnected pools, its many different saunas, and the myriad treatment options, it sounds like a big theme park for lovers of a good pampering.
permanen
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until March, 31st 2016.
With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.
www.daliberlin.de
BURN AFTER READING SPY MUSEUM BERLIN POTSDAMER PLATZ ENTRANCE: LEIPZIGER PLATZ 9 OPEN DAILY 10AM — 8PM top secret interactive international
spymuseumberlin.com CUT OUT
GET A FREE SPY POSTCARD* * Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until March, 31st 2016.
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HOT
DATES January in Berlin is packed with exciting events, from majestic horse shows to circus acrobats and graceful ballet performances.
CHINESE NATIONAL CIRCUS SUNDAY
24
With stunning acrobatics and breathtaking stunts, the Chinese National Circus makes a one-day stop in Berlin to perform Chinatown, a show that offers a peek into the richness and complexity of centuries of culture. The circus’s blend of traditional martial arts, modern dance, and gravity-defying tricks has made it one of the world’s most distinguished troupes. www.tempodrom.de
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THE BOTTICELLI RENAISSANCE
24 UNTIL SUNDAY
Last chance! Catch the exhibition dedicated to one of the masters of the Italian Renaissance, Sandro Botticelli, before it ends this month at the Gemäldegalerie. The show features not only works by the painter, whose depiction of the voluptuous, flowing-haired Venus has become iconic, but also pieces by such contemporary artists as Andy Warhol and David LaChapelle, who were influenced by Botticelli imagery. www.smb.museum
THE SIXDAY RACE FROM THURSDAY
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Join more than 75,000 visitors at the starting line for Berlin’s Six-Day Race, an indoor-track cycling event that dates back more than 100 years and was the occasion of Richard Huschke and Franz Krupkat’s legendary, still-unbeaten 1924 world record. The competition at the Velodrom, which pits professional and amateur athletes against one another, bills itself as a hybrid of top sports and thrilling entertainment, with live music, DJs, and activities for fans of all ages. www.sechstagerennen-berlin.de
15 FROM FRIDAY
APASSIONATA
Be wowed by majestic equestrian entertainment at Apassionata, a show that marries music, riding, choreography, and costumes. A long-standing local favorite, the troupe returns to the Mercedes-Benz Arena for four performances of its newest show, Under the Mirror’s Spell, which follows two sisters as they encounter a magical world of light and darkness. www.apassionata.com
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SWAN LAKE SATURDAY
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The captivating tale of Odette, a princess turned into a swan by a sorcerer’s spell, is one of the world’s most beloved ballets, and though it’s been part of the Berlin Staatsballett’s repertoire since 1997, performances are rare. Luckily, Berliners have two chances to see it this month at the Deutsche Oper house, on 16 and 20 January, accompanied by the original Tchaikovsky score. www.deutscheoperberlin.de
INTERNATIONAL GREEN WEEK
15 FROM FRIDAY
They say you are what you eat, so get a little closer to the things you consume at International Green Week, a giant expo at Messe Berlin that is part trade fair, part food festival. Producers and experts from the food, agricultural, and horticultural industries gather to discuss trends, reveal new items, and more at this annual event, with diversions ranging from organic champagne to farm animals — and, of course, food samples. Until 24 January. www.gruenewoche.de
POTSDAMER PLATZ WINTERWELT
3
UNTIL SUNDAY
Last chance! There are a few days left at the beginning of the month to catch one of the city’s favorite holiday activities; the Winterwelt (winter world) at Potsdamer Platz. Head over between 10am and 10pm to take one final spin on the ice rink or an exhilarating go down the 70m-/230ft-long ice slide, then warm up with a hot mulled wine or cup of cocoa. www.winterwelt-berlin.de
off 2016 with a New Year's concert 1 Start at the Philharmonie's Kammermusiksaal. in a stunning performance of Mozart's 2 Take The Magic Flute at the Deutsche Oper. one of the last two shows of the Roncalli 3 Catch Christmas Circus, today at Tempodrom. pics of 1920s Paris by photographer 4 Admire Germaine Krull at Martin-Gropius-Bau. on Berlin's Eisbären hockey team as 5 Cheer they play at the Mercedes-Benz Arena. an afternoon Espresso Concert at the 6 Enjoy Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears!" in Vaudeville acts and fine dining from 7 Take Michelin-starred Kolja Kleeberg at Palazzo. a legend's music in the Circus Meets 8 Relive Michael Jackson show at Tempodrom. The show of the Würth art collection 9 Hurry! at Martin-Gropius-Bau ends tomorrow. are for brunching. Have a Russian 10 Weekends breakfast at Potemkin, Viktoria-Luise-Platz. on the wild side at Berlin’s famed zoo, 11 Walk located at the edge of Tiergarten park. a musical lunch break at the 12 Take Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. the groundbreaking photos of 13 Discover artist Cindy Sherman at me Collectors Room. Network at the Technikmuseum, and 14 Explore find out how we are all connected. off the weekend at Becketts Kopf, 15 Kick Prenzlauer Berg's best cocktail bar. the horse and human choreography 16 Admire of Apassionata at Mercedes-Benz Arena. antique fans, the Sunday flea market on 17 For Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. the first to catch the season's new looks as 18 Be Berlin Fashion Week kicks off. the post-modern musical hijinks of the 19 Enjoy world-renowned Blue Man Group. New Houdini, the stunning show by 20 The illusionist Hans Klok at Tempodrom. the Chamäleon Theater for the bawdy 21 Visit acrobatics of the Wunderkammer show. Last chance! The Botticelli masterpieces 22 leave the Gemäldegalerie Sunday. drummers, kimono fashion shows, and 23 Taiko more appear at the Japan Festival at Urania. at the acrobatic Feuerwerk der 24 Marvel Turnkunst show at Mercedes-Benz Arena. up with coffee and Apfelstrudel at the 25 Warm historic, elegant Café Einstein Stammhaus. rock and folk songstress Lucinda 26 American Williams sings at the KulturBrauerei tonight. yourself silly at American comedian 27 Laugh Kevin Hart's show at Mercedes-Benz Arena. by The Wyld, a futuristic Las Vegas28 Bestylewowed show at Friedrichstadt-Palast. your feet along to a rousing show of Kiss 29 Tap Me, Kate at the Komische Oper. a Saturday night out at Kreuzberg's 30 Enjoy excellent Schwarze Traube cocktail bar. the German National Orchestra play 31 Hear Dvorak and Smetana at the Philharmonie.
For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.
CHINESE NATIONAL CIRCUS: PHOTO VORAB VERBOTENE STADT; SIX-DAY RACE: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; THE BOTTICELLI RENAISSANCE: SANDRO BOTTICELLI: TONDO RACZYNSKI, 1477. STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, GEMÄLDEGALERIE / JÖRG P. ANDERS; APASSIONATA: COURTESY OF APASSIONATA, GOLDENE SPUR; SWAN LAKE: PHOTO BY SANDRA HASTENTEUFEL; CHICKEN AND TOBOGGAN: ©ISTOCK PHOTOS.
JANUARY
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JANUARY 19–21 2016 w w w. p re m i u m ex h i b i t i o n s . c o m S TAT I O N - B E R L I N
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TOP SECRE T
CITY OF SPIES Where secret agent Jenna Rose Robbins infiltrated the set of the German TV program that’s earned international acclaim.
D
ead drops. Ciphers. Codebooks. Throughout the Cold War, Berlin was the unofficial capital of espionage, with agents from both East and West embroiled in matters of international intrigue more elaborate than a John le Carré novel. The spy thriller has undergone a retro facelift with Deutschland 83, the first television show broadcast in its original German language (with subtitles) in the U.S. and currently showing locally on RTL. Less somber than its genre colleagues, the eightpart series allows for some wry, even tonguein-cheek moments amid the tense backdrop of potential nuclear war. And as Mad Men did for the ‘60s, so
Deutschland 83 does for its respective time period, with faithful reproductions of 1980s fashion and décor that provide a nostalgic look back no matter which side of the Pond — or Wall — you grew up on. Viewers know just what they’re in for with the first glimpse of the title sequence, a Technicolor splash set to Peter Schilling’s incongruously upbeat one-hit wonder Major Tom. The soundtrack of each episode only gets better from there, with hits from David Bowie, New Order, and, of course, the triumphant German hit 99 Luftballons
by Nena. The series, which premiered to favorable reviews at last year’s Berlinale film festival, follows twentysomething East German border control guard Martin Rauch (played by Jonas Nay), who gets strong-armed into going undercover in the West. Much of the show’s subtle humor comes from the contrast of the divided country’s culture clashes, such as Rauch’s bewilderment when he finds himself amid the overwhelming amount of goods in a West German supermarket, or his sheer giddiness when he listens to his
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ESPIONAGE | WHERE NOW
T
ALL PHOTOS: COURTESY OF RTL AND DEUTSCHLAND 83.
(Clockwise from opposite page, left) Lenora Rauch and a Stasi comrade wiretap the enemy; Martin Rauch photographs top-secret Western documents; preparing for the military exercise Able Archer at NATO; the series’ poster; Martin attempts to cross the border into East Germany using his undercover alias, Moritz Stamm; a spy glove used for assassinations (the Spy Museum).
first Walkman. But Deutschland 83’s driving force comes from the real-life events around which Rauch must maneuver. When the Soviets and East Germans expect that a NATO military exercise is a ruse for an actual nuclear attack, Lenora (Maria Schrader), Rauch’s aunt and Stasi (secret police) member, recruits her nephew as a mole, a position that requires him to put his spy skills to the test by photographing top-secret documents, fighting off would-be assassins, and slipping across borders to complete his mission. While uncovering the truth about the reallife Able Archer military exercise — considered by many to be the closest the world has ever come to global thermonuclear war — Rauch finds himself in the center of
other bona fide historical events, such as the bombing of the Maison de France (which still stands at Kurfürstendamm 211, as the Institut Français Berlin) and the red-letter concert that gave Udo Lindenberg claim to fame as the first West German musician to perform in the GDR. The Stasi Museum (p. 40) plays its former self in the scenes at Stasi headquarters, known as the “House of a Thousand Eyes.” Visitors can also visit the infamous Checkpoint Charlie, where Rauch was posted before he began his life of espionage. Despite the critical acclaim the show has received, there’s been no word yet of a second season. So if you’re still jonesing for your spy fix, check out our list of not-soundercover attractions and activities. The Nutcracker
Alliierten Museum — As a dedication to the support of the United States, United Kingdom, and France to Berlin, the Allied Forces Museum features permanent exhibits, including the original Checkpoint Charlie guardhouse, with a focus on the Berlin Airlift and Cold War. (www.alliiertenmuseum.com) Berlin Unterwelten — Roam the hidden bunkers and abandoned U-Bahn tunnels of the city’s underworld. Several different tour themes provided varied looks into the forgotten realms of World War II and the Cold War. Reservation required. Glienicke Bridge— The former border crossing and bridge between Berlin Wannsee and Potsdam, from which the recent Tom w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 11
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Hanks film Bridge of Spies takes its name, witnessed several important exchanges of captured spies. Hohenschönhausen Memorial — Once a Stasi prison, the memorial now showcases the atrocities committed by the East German secret police. Several scenes of the Oscarwinning 2006 film The Lives of Others, based on Stasi crimes, were filmed on site. The Spy Museum — One of Berlin’s newest museums is an homage to all things espionage, from ancient Egyptians to popculture secret agents. Test your cat-burglar skills in the laser maze or, for the more practical, see how well your Facebook password holds up against hackers. (p. 40)
Stasi Museum — Housed in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg, the museum explians the terror regime inflicted by the East German secret police upon its citizens, with the centerpiece being the preserved offices of Erich Mielke, who served as Minister for State Security from 1957 until German reunification. Teufelsberg — The U.S. listening station (whose name translates as “Devil’s Mountain”) was decommissioned after the Berlin Wall fell, and its documents won’t be declassified until 2022, but you can visit the site today by booking a tour with an English guide at www.berlinsightout.de.
Octopussy (1983). James Bond’s crossing at Checkpoint Charlie has been memorialized at the nearby Back Factory café, which has become a magnet for 007 fans. The Bourne Supremacy (2004). Jason Bourne (Matt Damon) didn’t have much time for sightseeing, what with the CIA hot on his trail, but he did manage to enjoy a stroll across the Oberbaumbrücke, connecting Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg. A Most Wanted Man (2014). The Ludwig Erhard House was the backdrop of the intelligence and police meeting in Anton Corbijn’s tale of British espionage. Bridge of Spies (2015). The pivotal prisoner-exchange scene in the Steven Spielberg/Tom Hanks thriller takes place on Potsdam’s Glienicke Bridge, whose nickname became the film’s title. Homeland (2011—). When Claire Danes and cast needed to shoot an U-Bahn scene, they politely chose the U55 (the shortest line) so as to cause the least interruption to traffic.
From top toSpy bottom: The former U.S. listening station at Teufelsberg; Mielke’s office at the Stasi Museum; a letter-opening kit; Glienicke Bridge, the “bridge of spies.” Image: Museum xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
TEUFELSBERG AND GLIENICKER BRÜCKE: © THINKSTOCK PHOTOS; MIELKE’S OFFICE: COURTESY OF THE STASI MUSEUM; LETTER-OPENING KIT AND 007 POSTER: COURTESY OF THE SPY MUSEUM
SPIES ON FILM
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British Shorts Where Berlin_Layout 1 04.12.15 15:16 Seite 1
9th Lichtspielklub Short Film Festival 21st–25th January 2016 in Berlin Sputnik Kino H Acudkino H City Kino Wedding H Badehaus Szimpla www.britishshorts.de
Filmstill from “Swimmer” by Lynne Ramsay (Warp Films) / Screened at British Shorts 2014
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WHERE NOW | FASHION WEEK
À LA MODE
With the help of fashion expert and blogger Mehtap Sert, Solveig Steinhardt deciphered the new season’s trends and compiled a guide to Berlin Fashion Week. 2
1
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1 and 3: Isabell de HIllerin; 2: Michalsky; 4: Kaviar Gauche.
style combining street wear with urban fashion and minimalism with grungy elements. And while some say this casual and slightly aggressive style is the result of the city’s turbulent history, others have likened the clean and minimalist cuts to the Bauhaus style and philosophy. Whether or not there’s a historic reason for the multiple facets of alternative, all of them are represented at Fashion Week, with the support of the many models and designers who travel to Berlin for the event. The stars spotted in the last season included actresses Elizabeth Hurley and Katie Holmes, fashion blogger Chiara Ferragni, and Israeli model Bar Rafaeli. Expect a similarly illustrious lineup this January. To give you a better idea of what the Berlin style is about, we’ve selected four designers that best represent the city.
EXPLORING BERLIN’S FASHION Curious to discover Berlin’s designers? The city’s “fashion district” is located in the Scheunenviertel in Mitte, where a few small streets form an inviting maze of trendy shops, restaurants, and cafés, housing boutiques from both independent designers and well-known labels. With a quaint and close-knit yet chic feel like Paris’s Marais neighborhood, this is the area for trend seekers to spend a day or two exploring. Get off the U-Bahn at Weinmeisterstraße and take a walk on Mulackstraße, Alte-SchönhauserStraße, and Rosenthaler Straße to visit the boutiques that best express the city’s hip and unique trends.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ISABELL DE HILLERIN, KAVIAR GAUCHE, MICHALSKY.
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t’s that time of the year again – time to go through our closets and get ready for the city’s trendiest event. From 18 to 22 January, Berlin Fashion Week returns to the German capital with five days of shows, trade fairs, and parties all over town. The twice-annual event, celebrating its ninth birthday this year, has become the symbol of Berlin’s transformation into an internationally acclaimed fashion hub. And since the reputations of cities like Paris and Milan would have been too hard to beat, Berlin Fashion Week has managed to develop its own niche, becoming the stage for up-andcoming designers and presenting young international talents to the world. Known for having made anti-conformism the only rule to conform to, Berlin has always had an alternative scene, which in recent years has flourished into a distinctive
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the conference on the future of fashion
JANUARY 20 K端hlhAUs stAtioN-beRliN
www.fashiontech.berlin
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WHERE NOW | FASHION WEEK
This photo: Michalsky StyleNite. Right: a Michalsky show. Bottom: bridal couture by Kaviar Gauche.
To add a romantic and elegant touch to your wardrobe, try on a dress by Isabell de Hillerin (Konk, Kleine Hamburger Str. 15). Her designs reflect her idea of contemporary and sustainable fashion, adding innovative cuts to the traditional lace-making crafts of Moldova, bringing back a near-extinct art
and supporting the region’s economy. And for a dose of luxury, Kaviar Gauche (Linienstr. 44, www.kaviargauche.com) specializes in gorgeous cocktail dresses and gowns, as well as bridal wear and accessories made for lovers of urban elegance.
WHAT TO EXPECT IN SPRING AND SUMMER 2016: – Lace: It’s been back on the runways for a few seasons now and will be staying this summer too, with romantic appliques and see-through materials. – Vintage looks from the ‘70s, with suede jackets, mixed and tie-dye prints, and a general rock-band attitude. – Flowing fabrics for that extra-feminine look. – Ethnic patterns and folklore-inspired style, fed by a desire to rediscover local histories and traditions.
ILLUSTRATION © ISTOCK PHOTO
The man who has dressed German celebrities for many a red carpet event, Michael Michalsky (Potsdamer Platz 4, www.michalsky.com); goes by the motto “real fashion for real people,” creating lines for every occasion, from casual to smart to elegant, and his couture collection adds streetwear influences to a classic style. His Michalsky StyleNite, taking place every Fashion Week, is a combination of fashion show and gala, with many surprise guests. Glamorous Berlin label Glaw Berlin (Dircksenstraße 45, www.glaw-berlin.com), the work of designer duo Jesko Wilke and Maria Poweleit, combines urban elements with feminine fabrics like cashmere and silk. The brand draws inspiration from nostalgic elements with a feminist approach, and emphasize on wearability and diversity. Batik effects and colorful prints are some of their signature elements, which they also apply to their key piece, the biker jacket, designed anew in every collection. 12 W H E R E BLO 16 E RNLDI N ON I JIAJNAUA N UA R YR 2016 Y 2016
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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS
MINIMALISM Less is more. Claudia Koksch gets back to basics.
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1. Montblanc Boutique Berlin, Friedrichstr. 80. 2. TYPE HYPE, Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 9–13. 3. UNIQLO, Leipziger Platz 16. 4. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69. 5. Tamaris, Friedrichstr. 154. 6. artdentity, artdentity.de. 7. cross jeans, Oranienburger Str. 83. 8. Filippa K, Alte Schönhauser Str. 11. 9. Marc Cain, Kurfürstendamm 69.
BACKGROUND ©ISTOCK PHOTO
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FAS H I O N T R A D E E V E N T
SHOW & ORDER MONDAY 18TH - 20TH JANUARY 2016 KRAFTWERK BERLIN MITTE KÖ P E N I C K E R S T R . 7 0 . 1 0 1 7 9 B E R L I N
MON January 18th 10-7pm TUE January 19th 10-9pm WED January 20th 10-6pm whereberlin3bleed.indd 1 1 WB SHOW & ORDER.indd
STARTING ON MONDAY, THE 18th SHOWANDORDER.COM 02.12.15 15:12 03/12/2015 13:36
SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
Schloßstraße by night
Das Schloss
Strolling Steglitz's Shopping Sights Eager to explore new shopping horizons, Annabelle Mallia took a walk in the pleasant south-western district of Steglitz. Like many big cities, Berlin is multi-centric, with many different shopping areas scattered throughout. There's the gigantic and busy Alexanderplatz, the high-end "shopping mile" of the Ku'damm, the small boutiques around Savignyplatz, and luxurious Friedrichstraße, as well as many other smaller streets offering high-level brands and a low-stress shopping experience. A 12-minute U-Bahn ride from Zoologischer Garten, Schloßstraße in Steglitz is one of Berlin’s most popular shopping destinations, featuring numerous specialty shops and four malls within less than two kilometers. Get off at U Rathaus Steglitz and discover Globetrotter (No. 78, www.globetrotter.de) for outdoor and travel gear, sporting and camping equipment, and casual wear. With an indoor canoe basin, a cold chamber, and climbing wall, the store also gives you the chance to try before you buy. Directly opposite is Das Schloss (No. 34, www. dasschloss.de), the first of the neighborhood's
Globetrotter
four malls, with three levels of shopping, leisure, and dining pleasure, decorated with gold elements and ocean motifs for a visually rich experience. Two blocks east lies Boulevard Berlin (No. 10, www. boulevardberlin.com), the city's secondlargest mall with 120 stores oozing style and modernity, followed by Forum Steglitz (No. 1, www.forum-steglitz.de), with its 1980s look
and featuring fashion chains and electronics stores. Or visit the Schloss-Straßen-Center (Walther-Schreiber-Platz 1, www.schlossstrassen-center.de), which houses the popular Primark chain. All these indoor shopping spots make Schloßstraße a great place to shop on a rainy day. Lovers of natural products should also visit the Naturkaufhaus (No. 101, www. naturkaufhaus-gmbh.de), an eight-level supermarket opposite the Boulevard Berlin mall, carrying eco-friendly and fair-trade products, as varied as wine and teas, cosmetics, fashion, and home décor. For the kids, Werken Spielen Schenken (No. 110b, www.werken-spielen-schenken.de) has arts and crafts items and a huge selection of traditional German wooden toys, dollhouses, and model trains, all housed beneath the Bierpinsel, a quirky, multicolored construction with a mushroom-like stem. Built in the 1960s as a restaurant, the building remains Schloßstraße's most prominent landmark.
BOULEVARD BERLIN: COURTESY OF BOULEVARD BERLIN; GLOBETROTTER: COURTESY OF GLOBETROTTER; DAS SCHLOSS: COURTESY OF DAS SCHLOSS; SCHLOSSSTRASSE AT NIGHT: © ISTOCK PHOTOS.
Boulevard Berlin
Globetrotter
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Boulevard berlin: courtesy of boulevard berlin; globetrotter: courtesy of globetrotter; das schloss: courtesy of das schloss; Schlossstrasse at night: © istock photos.
FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com
Department stores & malls Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map
THE
where GUIDELINES
This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead. INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 56-57. Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 24 January, 13 March, 22 May, 4 September, 16 October, 6 November, 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.
Royal Love Inspired by the love between Queen Victoria and her German husband Prince Albert, concept store Victoria met Albert in Prenzlauer Berg stocks a charming selection of clothing, accessories, gifts, and design objects for both him and her. From golden-wire baskets by LIV and animal mugs designed by Jane Foster to the "Dapper Chap" hip flask and hats from talented milliner Becky Jane, the store lives up to its motto, “for the woman who has everything and the man who needs nothing.” Krossener Str. 9–10. T: 030 29774366. www.victoriametalbert.com
Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian
areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Fashion Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
BCBGMAXAZRIA The global label makes everything from evening gowns to everyday apparel, all with an eye for what makes a woman look and feel good. www.bcbg.com. Schlüterstr. 39. T: 030.88624770. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4 Listings continue on page 27 www.wheretraveler.com 21
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MCM German luxury purveyor MCM has launched its new Bionic Series, a collection of unisex backpacks and bags made of innovative lightweight material inspired by the interiorlight paneling on spaceships. Solid German craftsmanship combined with pioneering materials means the Bionic line is as waterresistant and durable as it is luxurious.
Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030 8811104 www.mcmworldwide.com
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UNIQLO
Epitomizing the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known, bagatt Milano stands for fine Italian craftsmanship, applying these high quality standards into its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. From contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear to elegant heels, the bagatt Milano store is a shoe-lover’s paradise. Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 25759777 bagattberlino@gmail.com
High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters. Tauentzienstr. 7B/C. T: 030 29028260 www.uniqlo.com/de
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SUPER THIN, SUPER WARM.
A REVOLUTIONARY THIN FABRIC THAT CONVERTS BODY MOISTURE INTO HEAT AND RETAINS IT.
WOMEN SHIRT 14,90 €
SHOP ONLINE: WWW.UNIqLO.COM/DE
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Bit te b ea chten Sie, da s s d ie Fa r b en u n d P ro p o r tio n en d er hier a b g ebil d eten A r tikel zu ei na n d er a n d er s au s fal l en kö n n en . D ie s ka n n d r u ck te ch ni s ch b e d i n gt s ei n . Al l e A r tikel s i n d er hältl ich , s o l a n g e d er Vo r rat reicht. 11.10. 2 015, UNI Q LO EUR O PE LTD, G er ma n Bra n ch , Tau ent zien s tra ß e 7 B/C, 10789 B er l i n.
COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M HALLHUBER Hollister HUGO BOSS
Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL
BREE C&A CALZEDONIA CAMPUS Casano CHRIST CINQUE Claire’s Clarks Ecco Coco California Codello Cordon Berlin
MANKIND adidas Neo Airfield Almano Ledermanufaktur ARMANI JEANS Backlash Bershka BIJOU BRIGITTE BIMBA Y LOLA
Hunkemöller Intersport INTIMISSIMI Jack & Jones JD Sports KARL LAGERFELD Kingz Konplott LACOSTE LAURÈL Levi’s LIEBESKIND Liu Jo LLOYD Look 54 Mabba MANGO MARC CAIN MASSIMO DUTTI Mavi MAX & CO. Mephisto
MEXX Michal Negrin Muji NAVYBOOT Nike NOA NOA Oakley Odlo Olymp One Green Elephant Osco PANDORA Passionata PATRIZIA PEPE Peek & Cloppenburg PENNYBLACK Pepe Jeans René Lezard Reno Replay Rich & Royal
Runners Point S & D sons and daughters Salamander Sarar Schiesser Schiesser Revival SCHMUCKRAUSCH Schuh Bode SHOE CITY Shoe Connect Shok Sidestep SILK & CASHMERE SNIPES Sportalm Kitzbühel SPORTSCHECK Street Shoes STRELLSON STRENESSE STYLE MODE Sunglass Hut
SWAROVSKI Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO Tom Tailor TOMMY HILFIGER Trigema Triumph TWIN-SET UN1DEUX2TROIS3 Undiz Vans VERO MODA WE-Fashion Wigglesteps WORMLAND ZARA ZERO ...and more.
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SHOPPING ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Bimba y Lola Founded by two sisters, the Spanish label specializes in fashion and accessories – all designed by a team in their 20s – that combine modern flair with Spanish playfulness. www.bimbaylola.com. Weinmeisterstr. 9b. T: 030.28096770. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20644265. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines
this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Darklands Relocating to a new space every few seasons, Darklands is a nomadic, multi-branded men’s fashion store. It stocks clothing by leaders in German avant-garde design with a strong preference for the darker end of the color spectrum. It’s hard to find, so see website for instructions. www.darklandsberlin.com. Heidestr. 46–52, Building 7. S Hauptbahnhof. D2
ESCADA Cool glamour, sensual femininity, and modern elegance are the hallmarks of the ESCADA brand, offering women not only a glamorous couture line but also must-have everyday fashion, as well as a range of accessories such as shoes, bags, jewelry, and fragrances. www.escada.com. See website for more locations. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Evelin Brandt Evelin Brandt offers an urban, feminine look with a skilful mix of elegance, casualness and extravagance. The label’s distinctive designs highlight a woman’s individuality and personal charisma. Whether in beautiful jackets, flowing dresses, or accessories, customers will be strikingly well dressed. www.evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr. 153a. T: 030.2044444. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
G-Star RAW For more than 20 years, Dutch label G-Star RAW has been producing urban clothing inspired by military apparel made with raw denim. On the Ku’damm since 2013, the flagship store responds to the label’s philosophy, combining their original designs and materials with friendly expert service. www.g-star.com. Kurfürstendamm 16. T: 030.88001973. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Juicy Couture The LA label most famous for its velour track suits (often with the logo emblazoned across the derrière) is available at the Berlin shopping mecca of KaDeWe. www.juicycouture.com. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Liu Jo Since 1995, this major Italian fashion company has been aiming to bring out every woman’s natural beauty with elegance and quality. Contemporary and glamorous, practical yet professional, Liu Jo’s collection ranges from clothing to shoes to beachwear, including selections for men and children. www.liujo.com. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20624744. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3
A PLACE FOR SHOPPING
Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE
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SHOPPING Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Shoes & Accessories AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4
The Blouse Re-Invented For a taste of the fashionable Mediterranean style, get to 0039 Italy. At the heart of its range is the blouse, redeemed from its stuffy, conventional reputation and turned into a fashion statement. Vibrant colors and inspiring patterns on Italian materials are co-founder and designer Aysen Bitzer’s guiding themes. With its repertoire of sensual, flowing forms and cool cuts, the label appeals equally to businesswomen, moms, and young hipsters. But 0039 Italy is not only about blouses: dresses, skirts, jackets, pants, and knits round off the offering. Schlüterstr. 51. T: 030 88708483. www.0039italy-shop.com
Marc O’Polo For nearly five decades, Marc O’Polo has stayed true to its philosophy of authenticity, creating casual, wearable lifestyle clothing with an upscale feel. From womenswear and menswear to children’s clothing and home accessories, a visit to a Marc O’Polo boutique has plenty in store. www.marc-o-polo.de. Kurfürstendamm 220 (check website for other locations). T: 030.88923901. U Kurfürstendamm, U Uhlandstraße. C4
One Green Elephant This Japanese, European designed brand brings innovative fashion for women and men. Designed as ever-lasting go-to brand, they create highquality garments that are affordable and trendy. www.onegreenelephant.com. Mall of Berlin. Leipziger Platz 12. T: 030.20216742. U Mohrenstraße. E3
MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for
timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4
rich&royal This women’s fashion store on the first floor of the Mall of Berlin carries everyday clothes for passionate women. All items are designed and made in Europe, boasting a modern, glamorous, and bold style with a slightly rock-oriented touch. Open 9am–10pm Mon–Sat. www.richandroyal. de. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. S Potsdamer Platz. E3
Strellson
Buffalo Boots One of the most famous shoe brands in Europe. www.buffalo-shop.de. See website for more locations. Kantstr. 31. S Savignyplatz. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 46. U Weinmeisterstraße. E2
Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4
LIEBESKIND Berlin High-quality leather accessories and shoes, from casual to classic, designed in Berlin. de.liebeskindberlin.com. See website for further locations. Neue Schönhauser Str. 8 T: 030.24781600 F3
MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186.T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up Michal Negrin Most stores are closed or, as they say, for young men with The Israeli designer has been Sundays, but many big plans. Concentrating on clarity, creating a unique lifestyle look for museum gift shops the Strellson philosophy is based 20 years, with an eye on fashion, are open. on clear cuts and top quality for their jewelry, and home décor. Inspired suits and other urban wears, as well as by vintage themes with romantic and transparent values and work attitudes. Victorian elements, Negrin’s creations are www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. made with Swarovski crystals and luxe fabrics. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2 www.michalnegrin.com. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20143466. U Mohrenstraße. E3
UNIQLO
Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3
MYKITA Hand-assembled in their manufactory in Mitte, these designer glasses combine precision craftsmanship with new technologies. What started out in an old nursery (Kita) has now received worldwide acclaim. www.mykita.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 6. T: 030.67308715. S+U Alexanderplatz, U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
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Jewelry & Watches Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard. com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Juwelier LorenZ A family business since 1874, one of Berlin's most prestigious watchmakers and jewelers showcases Rolex, Cartier, Raymond, and Tudor. www.juwelierlorenz.de. Rheinstr. 59. T: 030.8512020. U Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz. Off Map
Juweliere Leicht This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Bulgari, Utopia, Noor, and Meissen, as well as proprietary designs manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Niessing Each piece of Niessing jewelry tells a story about the jewelry house, in business since 1873, and comes with a personal touch from its creator. Lively pieces in gold, platinum, or stainless steel. www.niessingberlin.de. Stilwerk/Kantstr. 17. T: 030. 31809075. S Savignyplatz. B4
Selected shops for the savvy shopper
Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. Also visit their Rolex boutique on the Ku’damm. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3
Client Client Outlet Outlet Ad Ad Type Type Publication Publication Size Size
N/Given GB Type Type Area Area -- N/Given Initials Initials -- GL mm 100 Bleed Bleed -- mm Scale Scale -- 100 04–09–2015 >300 Date Date -- 04–09–2015 Effective Effective DPI DPI -- >300 File File Name Name -GL0846_0010_AW15_Berlin_Press_Where_Magazine_118x124mm_AW -GL0846_0010_AW15_Berlin_Press_Where_Magazine_118x124mm_AW
-- McAG McAG -- Belin Belin -- Press Press -- Where Where Mag Mag -- 118x124mm 118x124mm
Concept Stores Departmentstore Quartier 206 This multi-brand store inside the Quartier 206 luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers. www.dsq206.com. Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3 Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2. T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other
IMAGE © THINKSTOCK
Herrlich
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SHOPPING locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3
FOOD & Gourmet Fassbender & Rausch Berlin’s undisputed temple of confections features the world's longest chocolate counter and eyepopping sculptures, such as a model Reichstag made from 300kg (660lb) of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3
Marheineke Markthalle One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors. Mon-Fri 8am8pm, Sat 8am-6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
Markthalle Neun
The Store, A Home Although independent from Berlin’s Soho House, The Store at Soho House offers a comprehensive and entirely immersive shopping experience, all without the need for a Soho House membership. Set up in a casual style, the shop is welcoming and cozy, and actually quite frequently described as more of a home than a retail store, complete with a library and open workspaces. Torstr. 1. www.thestores.com
One of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, the 1891 building has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market (Fri–Sat 10am–6pm). See website for other foodie events, such as the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43 T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and
Shopping Essentials sizing GUIDE
shoes UK
US
clothes Euro
UK
women 3 4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9 10
8 9 10 11 12 13
Xs s m l
6 8 10 12 14 16
8 9 10 11 12 13
2 4 6 8 10 12
34 36 38 40 42 44
men (chest) 41 42 43 45 46 47
s m l
34 36 38 40 42 44
Children 7 8 9 10 11 12
Euro
women 36 37 38 39 41 42
men 7 8 9 10 11 12
US
34 36 38 40 42 44
44 46 48 50 52 54
Children 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5
4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15
4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13
110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170
Bimba y Lola Mall of Berlin – Leipziger Platz 12 Weinmeisterstr. 9B
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NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN
match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de. Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080. U Französische Straße. E3
Home Décor
MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA at Alexanderplatz OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA
Jens Richard Fans of beautiful design are sure to find something for they need for home at Jens Richard, an emporium of porcelain, glass, tableware, and jewelry carefully sourced from renowned producers around the world. www.jensrichard.de. Kurfürstendamm 63. T: 030.75543716. U Adenauerplatz. B4
18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G
KPM Berlin Once upon a time, a king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur was born. Today known as KPM Berlin, the company still makes exquisite, world-renowned tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, enjoy the café, and shop for beautiful porcelain. www.kpm-berlin. com. Wegelystr. 1. T: 030.390090. S Tiergarten. C3
MEISSEN Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, and figurines, all identified by the signature crossed swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 21. T: 030.88625085. U Kurfürstendamm. B3
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Beauty & Wellness
Selected shops for the savvy shopper
Aveda Lifestyle Salon Aveda’s objective is to respect the environment, a mission reflected in the herbal products they use and in their commitment to the well-being of others. A cup of tea welcomes you before you retreat to the spa or hairdresser. www.aveda.de. Kurfürstendamm 26a. T: 030.88708790. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening with an a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions, which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honey-and-salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4
Books & Music Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus
Shakespeare and Sons After spending 10 years selling English and French books in the Czech Republic, this cute little store has expanded to Berlin, with an impressive range of Eastern European literature available in English. www.shakesbooks.de. Raumerstr. 36. T: 030.40003685. U Eberswalder Straße. F1; Warschauerstr. 74. T: 030.40003685. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4
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Germany’s biggest selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction, kids’ books, and audio books. With over two levels of wall-to-wall books, DVDs, and CDs, all genres are covered. Mon-Sat until midnight. Friedrichstr. 90. T: 030.20251111. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
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Out Of The Cold, Into The Green To get through the long, dark Berlin winter, Hilda Hoy recommends a little tropical day trip to the city's greenhouses. During Berlin's winter months, when the wind blows bitterly cold and the sun makes hardly an appearance all day long, an outing to a warm, green, and tropical refuge can do wonders. You don't need to be a botanist to love the Botanical Gardens (Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8, www.bgbm.org), located in the southwest district of Dahlem. Even while the sprawling gardens outside are hibernating under a layer of frost, life is thriving inside the grand, interconnected greenhouses. Step inside and immediately shed the winter coat – you won't be needing it as you stroll from one exotic ecosystem to the next. Discover lush ferns and orchids, towering cacti, and giant tropical trees, or watch Venus flytraps and other carnivorous plants at work. Wherever you go, there's sure to be something blooming, even in this season. A bit further afield, on Berlin's doorstep, is Biosphaere Potsdam (www.biosphaerepotsdam.de), a sultry paradise complete with
7000 sq.m./78,350 sq.ft. of rainforest. Visitors can admire the collection of vivid orchids or marvel at the colorful beauties dancing in the butterfly house. With chirping birds flying through the air and a population of brightly striped clownfish swimming through coral, the biosphere will feel a world away from wintry Berlin. And if you need a break, head to the café, where you can enjoy tropical drinks in the patio by the lake. Though the zoo in Tiergarten attracts the most attention due to its central location, the city also has a second zoo, Tierpark Berlin (Am Tierpark 125, www.tierpark-berlin.de), built in the 1950s so that East Berlin children could marvel at exotic animals just like their counterparts in the West. Make the S-Bahn trip out to Friedrichsfelde to explore the recently restored tropical hall, where an elevated walking path provides views of the treetops, brilliantly colored birds, and big fruit bats free to fly around as they please.
Botanischer garten: © I. Haas, Botanischer Garten und Botanisches Museum Berlin-Dahlem; Biosphere Potsdam: ©Biosphaere Potsdam and Agentur Kraftstoff.
SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE
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Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Berliner Dom
synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grâce in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Open daily 10am–6pm (to 5pm Fri). Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under6s free. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E2
Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus
The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Brandenburg Gate
Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz
MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard
Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3
In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily
10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3
Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche
© istock photos
Botanischer garten: © I. Haas, Botanischer Garten und Botanisches Museum Berlin-Dahlem; Biosphere Potsdam: ©Biosphaere Potsdam and Agentur Kraftstoff.
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The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
New Synagogue Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantine-style
Mid-Winter Markets Even though it’s winter, vendors still brave the cold to provide Berlin with a wide selection of flea markets popular with both locals and visitors. Located in Tiergarten, the Straße des 17. Juni market is one of Berlin’s oldest and most famous antique markets and also offers handcrafts, art, and design pieces. Every Sunday, Prenzlauer Berg's Mauerpark gets packed with crowds of tourists and Berliners who’ve come for the vibrant atmosphere, wares ranging from household items to fashion from local designers, and karaoke at the park’s amphitheater. At Boxhagener Platz in Friedrichshain, expect to find older folk peddling relics of Communist-era suburbia alongside a younger generation of Berliners selling hipper goods. Cold temperatures notwithstanding, there are still bargains to be found. www.wheretraveler.com 33
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SIGHTSEEING
The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3
HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4
Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. T: 030.467986666. U Bernauer Straße. E2
Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4
East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the
Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal. de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by
Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3
Stasi Prison
through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3
MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while Berlin Zoo and Aquarium the relatively more humane cells are on the upper MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in that provide ample indoor space, English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at making the venue suitable for rainy 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am days. The zoo boasts the largest and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. number of species and total animal en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. residents in the world. The Berlin is one of three fullyT: 030.98608230. S Landsberger aquarium, one of the largest in fledged states of the Federal Allee, then Tram M5 to Europe, features large tanks with Republic of Germany, the Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute piranhas, sharks, and alligators. other two being Hamburg walk. Off Map Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or and Bremen. aquarium: €13/6.50, under-5s free. Topographie des Terrors Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: MUST SEE On the site of the former €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www. headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. most important offices, this permanent exhibition S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor,
focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A preserved segment of the Berlin Wall runs along exhibition grounds. To Jan 3: Germany 1945: The Last Months of the War. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße, S+U Potsdamer Platz. E4
Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun until 6pm. Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey
Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org. Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100. S Botanischer Garten. Off Map
Children’s Museum Labyrinth One of Berlin’s two children’s museums. Two floors of activity stations on the theme of construction. Pleasant outdoor area for the warmer days. Open Mo-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 1–6pm, Sun 11–6pm. €4.50 for all over-3s (3.50 on Fridays). www.labyrinth-kindermuseum.de. Osloer Str. 12. T: 030.800931150. U Osloer Straße then tram. Off Map
Children’s Museum MachMit MUST SEE A hands-on museum for children. There is a climbing structure, a maze, a soap making workshop, a cinema, and lots of activities to encourage discovery through playing. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5.50 for all over-3s. www.machmitmuseum.de. Senefelderstr. 5/6. T: 030.74778200. S Prenzlauer Allee. F1
Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–6pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www. currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E4
A special agent's briefcase exposed at the Spy Museum Berlin (p. 40).
COURTESY OF THE SPY MUSEUM
Siegessäule (Victory Column)
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SIGHTSEEING Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.
CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.segberlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.
Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24047991.
Remnants Of Times Past Situated less than 55km (32mi) southwest of central Berlin in the town of Beelitz, the Beelitz Heilstätten is a mostly-abandoned hospital complex that was built well over a century ago as a sanatorium for tuberculosis patients. In 1945, it was occupied by Red Army troops and remained a Soviet military hospital until shutting down permanently in 1995. Throughout its history, the Heilstätten have housed several infamous patients, including Adolf Hitler during WWI and former GDR leader Erich Honecker in 1990. The evocative grounds, which are now privately owned, can only be visited through go2know, a Berlin agency that specializes in providing access to abandoned and forgotten places from the past, or through canopy tour agency Baum & Zeit. www.go2know.de, www.baumundzeit.de
HEILSTÄTTEN: ©ISTOCK PHOTOS; ENIGNMA: COURTESY OF THE SPY MUSEUM
Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. The legendary wax museum also has a section explaining how the figures are made. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S Hackescher Markt, S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Tempelhof Airport Park What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose
six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke. Off Map
Original Berlin Walks Offering eight themed walking tours in summer and four in the winter. Themes include the Third Reich, Jewish life in Berlin, Potsdam, the Cold War, gay Berlin, and Christmas markets (in December). No advance booking required, just show up at the meeting point. www.berlinwalks.de. Neue Bahnhofstr. 9-10. T: 030.3019194.
Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. Drivers must know how to drive a manual transmission. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.
Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE
Cold War Reloaded The Berlin Wall came down 27 years ago, burying the ideals of half of the world under its rubble, but those too young to remember can still admire the symbols of the Communist regime all throughout the city. Check out these sights and activities and get a feel for life à la East Germany. The DDR Museum (p. 37) walks visitors through every step of an East German citizen's life, from the "social potty training" exercises eight-month-olds underwent in state-run daycare, to the highly selective university admission process and how it favored party sympathizers. Besides exhibits on East German fashion and food, you can climb into a real Trabi or and learn the philosophy behind socialist building design. If sitting inside a DDR car made you feel like driving one, stick shift, noisy engine, and all, join a Trabi Safari (p. 35). By booking their Fall of the Wall tour, you have a chance to see all of East Berlin, but be sure to keep an eye out for Karl-Marx-Allee boulevard, East Berlin's
answer to the West's Ku'damm and a prime example of socialist architecture. Intended as residential housing for party officials, the street's buildings are the luxury version of the anonymous, pre-fabricated Plattenbau tower blocks that dominate the Marzahn and Lichtenberg neighborhoods further to the east. If life west of the Wall was generally easier, West Berliners still had to deal with the imposing presence of the barrier and its gloomy views, which are well depicted in Yadegar Asisi's Wall Panorama (p. 34). Visitors enter a cylindrical
structure where the artist recreated a life-size view of a Kreuzberg street by the Wall on an October day in 1982. The installation gives a very realistic idea of what it felt like for West Berliners to look over the Wall under the gray Berlin sky, with the voices of East German guards shouting from the watchtowers. You can visit one of the few remaining guardtowers at the end of Kielerstrße in Mitte (U Schwartzkopffstraße). Surrounded by apartment buildings, the GDR watchtower is now a memorial to the Günther Litfin, the first man who was shot and killed trying to cross the Berlin Wall the day after the barrier was built in 1961 (www.gedenkstaetteguenterlitfin.de).
KARL-MARX-ALLEE: © ISTOCK PHOTOS; ALL OTHER IMAGES: COURTESY OF DDR MUSEUM.
The exciting thing about Berlin is that it offers multiple snapshots of recent history. Solveig Steinhardt spent a day trying to understand life behind the Berlin Wall.
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Museums Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 16 May: The Struggle for Troy. Restored in the 19th century by the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, the sculptures depicting the Trojan Wars are on display once again. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs,and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 29 Feb: Moving Forward celebrates the 100th anniversary of the founding of Bauhaus with the construction of a new building. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4
DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3
Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. From 26 Jan: Art of The Holocaust – 100 W0rks from the Yad Vashem Memorial. To 3 Jan: Unification explores the challenges faced by the newly-unified Germany after the fall of the Wall. To 10 Jan: 1945–Defeat, Liberation. New Beginning exposes the efforts of various European nations made to rebuilding and recovering from WWII.Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse
approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 14 Mar: A Homage to Traviestar, Make-Up Artist, Lipstick Collector, and Charity Activist René Koch’s 70th Birthday. From 22 Jan: SuperQueeroes presents, for the first time in Europe, a collection of superheroes and comic book characters falling within the LGBTI spectrum. Sun– Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4
Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. To 15 Jan: The Pacifist Ernst Friedrich: Special exhibition of the powerful photography of the pacifist and founder of Berlin’s first anti-war museum. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Kupferstichkabinett
MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the
Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 3 Jan: Expressiveness in Art. The Crucifixion by the Master of Meßkirch from the Würth Collection: 30 historical works from the Kunsthammer Würth, the historical “cabinet of art” from one of Germany’s most renowned private collections. To 7 Feb: Nothing new: Abstraction Still Pending. To 30 Mar: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the Land of Orpheus. The coins of the ancient region of Thrace, Greece, and European Turkey. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Bröhan-Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 3 Apr: Turn of an Era. From the Berlin Secession to the November Group. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehanmuseum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
courtesy of allierten museum
Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9.
Denazification After the end of WWII, millions of Germans were affected by the Allies’ denazification measures, a process intended to help usher in a democratic society by removing individuals associated with the Nazi Party from positions of governmental power. Denazification proceedings often centered around stories of individuals, many of whom belonged to the Nazi Party or who were ultimately categorized simply as “followers.” Who Was a Nazi?, a new special exhibition at the Allied Museum, examines the denazification measures carried out in the western occupation zones, the Soviet zone, and the quartered capital, Berlin. Until 29 May. Clayallee 135. T: 030.8181990. www.alliiertenmuseum.de
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Energy Made Visible It was 1943 when Jackson Pollock, then one of Peggy Guggenheim's protégés, was asked by the art collector to create a mural for the hallway of her New York townhouse. The painting was to cover the whole wall, and Marcel Duchamp, Pollock's good friend and advisor, suggested that he paint it on canvas so it would be portable. It is thanks to Duchamp's advice that we can now admire this volcanic work right here in Berlin at the Deutsche Bank Kunsthalle (p. 40). A predecessor of the artist's famous poured paintings, which he started in 1947, Mural has been described as "energy made visible" and contains many influences from the artist's life and studies. Catch this masterpiece, together with a comprehensive array of subjective photography, until 10 April. Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 24 Jan: The Botticelli Coup presents the revival of interest in Sandro Botticelli and the controversial circumstances surrounding the acquisition of the collection in the 19th century. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Menschen Museum
Märkisches Museum
MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with
Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. From 3 Dec: I. Menzel commemorates the Berlin-based artist’s 200th birthday and his lasting legacy. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www. stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3
The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Daily 10am–7pm. €14/12. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Museum Berggruen
his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Museum of Communication An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once housed Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors, while iPads make perfect tour guides through the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the
The new Networks exhibition at the Deutsche Technikmuseum (p.37) explores the Internet and its technological development.
MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. To 10 Jan: From Hockney to Holbein focuses on 250 of the 16,000 works found in the Würth private collection. From 21 Jan: Art of Prehistoric Times. Rock paintings from Europe, central Sahara, Zimbabwean savannahs, and the Australian outback. To 31 Jan: Germaine Krull. Photographs highlights one of the 20th century’s most important photographers.Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4
Courtesy of deutsche bank kunsthalle
Martin-Gropius-Bau
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Berliner Festspiele
Martin-Gropius-Bau
era of information technology. To 21 Feb: What Belongs Together Is Now Growing Together! explores development of the postal and communication network in former East Germany after 1990. Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3
Museum of Asian Art The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Route. To 6 Jan: Jaipur and Amber in the Photography of the 19th Century. Prints and panoramas of the two lively and picturesque cities that captivated the first photographers of India. To 6 Jan: RAGAMALA examines music and love in relation to Indian music theory. To 10 Jan: Tigers, Cranes, Beautiful Women. Symbolic in the art of the Far East, these recurring motifs are found in this exhibition of large-scale folding screens. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map
15 October 2015 - 31 January 2016
Germaine Krull – Photographs Procession Zimbabwe, China Mora, Massimbura 8000 to 2000 BC. Watercolor by Elisabeth Mannsfeld 1929 65x202,5 cm © Frobenius Institute Frankfurt
Germaine Krull. Self-portrait with Icarette, circa 1925 © Estate Germaine Krull, Museum Folkwang, Essen, Photo © Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais / image Centre, Pompidou, MNAM-CCI
Exhibitions 2015/2016
21 January – 16 May 2016
Art of Prehistoric Times Rock Paintings from the Frobenius Collection
Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 10 Jan: Seen By 5: exponential anything. A series of works from students of Berlin’s University of the Arts. and Light Blue. To 22 May: Helmut Newton: Pages from the Glossies / Greg Gorman: A selection of Newton and Gorman’s fashion photography from magazine prints. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4
Museum für Naturkunde
Niederkirchnerstraße 7, 10963 Berlin, T +49 30 25486 0 Wed–Mon 10am – 7pm open on holidays and Tue, 29 /12/ 2015 and 05/01/2016 closed on 24/12 and 31/12/2015 online-tickets: www.gropiusbau.de
Take a walk though Berlin’s history
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Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www. naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2
Neues Museum
Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 24 Jan: How Islamic Art
IMAGE © THINKSTOCK
MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 10 Jan: Changing Identities explores ancient Egyptian works merged with modern-day living subjects. To 28 Feb: Beards: Between Nature and Razor explores the significance of beards throughout history and Berliners’ fascination with facial hair. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES One of four exhibitions put on by leading Berlin art institutions, revealing how the planning for the city comes to life. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4 MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 31 Jan: Anton Corbijn. Retrospective. A retrospective of over 600 of Corbijn’s works, split up into two themed series. To 31 Jan: Hikari retraces the story of Kobe through Kobe-born photographer David Favrod’s work. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org. Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3
A Decorated World
Deutsche Bank KunstHalle
As with many things in Berlin, the Kunstgewerbemuseum (www.smb.museum) is split between two locations, in the east and the west. In the east there is the picturesque setting of the Köpenick Palace, featuring masterpieces of interior design from the 16th–18th centuries. In the west, at the Kulturforum near Potsdamer Platz, the museum hosts a more extensive collection showcasing European arts from all the post-classical periods of art history. The ground floor of the Kulturforum building displays gold reliquaries from the Middle Ages and magnificent Renaissance artifacts, such as silverware from the city council of Lüneburg, while the Baroque era is represented upstairs by tin-glazed pottery from Delft. There's also a newly opened fashion gallery, with mannequins modeling over 100 costumes spanning 150 years of fashion history. Came to Berlin celebrates the founding and lasting impact of the Museum of Islamic Art, located inside the Pergamon Museum. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
era and an atomic bunker for visitors to better understand the WWII air raid experience. An entertaining way to learn about the development of the city. Open daily 10am–8pm. €12/5. www. story-of-berlin.de. Kurfürstendamm 208. T: 030.88720100. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Stasi Museum
Art galleries
The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map
Spy Museum Berlin Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €18/14. Daily 10am-8pm. www.spymuseumberlin.com. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3
Story of Berlin Almost 800 years of Berlin history arranged into 23 rooms, each describing a different theme or
Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3
With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 10 Apr: Jackson Pollock’s “Mural”: Energy Made Visible. Rarely on loan outside of University of Iowa’s Museum of Art, Pollock’s work is on display in Berlin after undergoing 18 months of cleaning in Los Angeles. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery
MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 24 Jan: The Botticelli Renaissance explores the influence and appropriations of Botticelli’s work in modern art. To 31 Jan: Botticelli in Reproductive Style features interpretations of Botticelli’s work by different contemporary artists. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun Russia has held parts of 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. the Pergamon’s collection museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. since the end of WWII, T: 030.266424242. despite a treaty to S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
return them.
Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 15 Feb: Max Beckmann and Berlin reveals the lasting artistic impact Berlin as a city had on artist Beckmann, even after he emigrated to the Netherlands. To 15 Feb: Ich kenne kein Weekend – The René Block Archives is dedicated to gallery owner Block’s influence and role in advancing art in Berlin. To 21 Mar: This is Us. Portrait photography of individuals and society. To 21 Mar: The Dialogic City.
Hamburger Bahnhof CThe permanent collection of this former
railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 31 Jul: Neue Galerie: The Black Years. Works from the Neue Nationalgalerie created between 1933-1945, including works by Pablo Picasso and Käthe Kollwitz. To 13 Mar: A Few Free Years features recently donated works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www. hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51.
Designergruppe "Memphis". Mailand. v.l.n.r.: Alessandro Mendini: Beistelltisch. "Papilio", 1985; Ettore "Casablanca", 1981; Martine Bedin: Lampe "Super", 1981; Michele De Lucchi: Stuhl "First" und Beistelltisch © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kunstgewerbemuseum / Achim Kleuker.
C/O Berlin
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Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To 22 May: Helmut Newton: Pages from the Glossies / Greg Gorman: A selection of Newton and Gorman’s fashion photography from magazine prints. Tue– Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.de. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. To 29 Feb: Women of the Secession II presents the female artists that drove the Berlin Secession art movement over a century ago. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermannvilla.de. Colomierstr. 3. T : 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map
me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 10 Apr: Cindy Sherman – Works from the Olbricht Collection. Sherman’s works explore cultural tropes and the struggle of the individual against a collective. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
A world of exhibitions
Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi bunker turned art gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it up with contemporary art by artists like Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12/6. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3
Commercial Galleries Wichtendahl Galerie, until 6 Feb: Reinhard Wöllmer, Tilmann Zahn, Hanna Hennenkemper, Hanns Schimansky, Kazuki Nakahara, Johannes Regin: Paperwork – Works on Paper. Carmerstr. 10. www.wichtendahl.de; Circle Culture Gallery, until 6 Feb: Anneliese Schrenk: Beast of Burden. Potsdamer Str. 68. www.circleculture-gallery. com; Galerie Thomas Schulte, until 15 Feb: Ute Wöllmann: Alfredo Jaar: (Kindness) of (Strangers). Charlottenstr. 24. www.galeriethomasschulte.de; Galerie Eigenheim, 8 Jan – 6 Feb: Adam Noack: solo exhibition – paintings and drawings. Linienstr. 130. www.galerie-eigenheim.de.
IMAGE © THINKSTOCK
Designergruppe "Memphis". Mailand. v.l.n.r.: Alessandro Mendini: Beistelltisch. "Papilio", 1985; Ettore "Casablanca", 1981; Martine Bedin: Lampe "Super", 1981; Michele De Lucchi: Stuhl "First" und Beistelltisch © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kunstgewerbemuseum / Achim Kleuker.
T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2
®
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DINING | THE GUIDE Daluma
This photo and below: Liquid Garden
A Clean Slate January is the month of new beginnings and new resolutions, which means it’s time to atone for the gluttonies of Christmas and the champagne overdoses of New Year’s Eve. And though this may be the city with wurst and döner kebab on seemingly every corner, recent years have seen the health food trend hit it big. Berlin is now home to numerous dining spots to help you on your way to making 2016 a year of eating well and staying healthy. For a quick yet nourishing breakfast, Liquid Garden in Prenzlauer Berg (Stargarder Str. 72) is popular with locals grabbing a smoothie to slurp on the go. The range of seasonal drinks is a far cry from the sugary fruit shakes some places pass off as smoothies – these are vivid, vegetable-packed potions packed with ingredients like dandelion, chard, wheatgrass, and raw beets, plus health-boosting additions like seeds, exotic berries, and spices. Take a break from a busy afternoon of shopping and sightseeing to recharge and
The Bowl
detox at Daluma (Weinbergsweg 3, www. daluma.de), a casual eatery just off Rosenthaler Platz in Mitte. The menu is vegan, 100% organic, and predominately raw, liberally pepped up with such exotic-sounding superfood supplements as moringa and lucuma. Choose from salads, soups, and grain and bean bowls topped with crunchy sprouts. Every sip of Daluma’s cold-pressed juice is like an injection of sunshine into the gray Berlin winter.
On the other side of town, The Bowl (Warschauer Str. 33, www.thebowl-berlin.com) is a great spot for a healthy meal any time of day. It’s dubbed itself the city’s first “clean eating” restaurant, and accordingly, everything on the menu is gluten-free, sugar-free, completely vegan, and yes – served in big bowls. Each one is a hodgepodge of healthy grains like quinoa or wild rice, fresh salads, diverse toppings, and flavorful dressings, which will fill you up without weighing you down. Add on a homemade, sugar-free lemonade, like the tangy hibiscusgrapefruit cocktail.
DALUMA: © HIRES SELECT; THE BOWL: © MICHAEL MORTLOCK; LIQUID GARDEN: © CARINA ADAMS.
Kick start the new year with some fresh, healthy food. Hilda Hoy shares the city's best spots for eating green in the city.
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.
FINE DINING 5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3
Bandol sur Mer This tiny, hip, and very trendy French restaurant deserves accolades for its food, though part of its popularity is no doubt due to the fact that Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie famously dined here. Reservations a must. €€–€€€. Daily D. www.bandolsurmer.de. Torstr. 167. T: 030.67302051. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
Bieberbau There’s good reason to travel off the beaten track to the Bieberbau: it’s housed in a lovely 1890s cottage, now a protected monument, which still bears plenty of historic charm. The kitchen serves high-caliber
regional dishes that take advantage of seasonal produce. €€€. Tues–Sat D. www.bieberbau-berlin. de. Durlacher Str. 15. T: 030.8532390. S+U Bundesplatz. C5
Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
First Floor Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45. T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3
Frühsammers Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. €€€. Thu– Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammers-restaurant. de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030.89738628. S Hohenzollerndamm. A5
Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank has built himself a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Vegetarian options available. Warm, wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio for the warmer months. €€€. Wed– Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-LinckeUfer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine. Its reputation as one of Berlin’s go-to gourmet destinations is well earned. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapester Str. 2. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Les Solistes Refined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restaurant in the Waldorf Astoria widespread renown. Under the leadership of star chef Pierre
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DINING
Dining in the historical heart of Berlin in the Nikolaiviertel. Risotto world champion and top chef Holger Zurbrüggen celebrates new German cuisine at affordable prices.
Gagnaire, the menu has clear French influences while daring to incorporate flavors from India, the Middle East, and further afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.waldorfastoriaberlin.com. Hardenbergstr. 28. T: 030.8140000. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Markus Semmler Named “Restaurateur of the Year” in 2000—amongst many other awards and distinctions—Markus Semmler has launched a new solo project. In his restaurant, he serves expertly handled German classics with a fine-tuned sense for quality. €€€€. Wed–Sat D. www.kochkunst-ereignisse. de. Sächsische Str. 7 T: 030.89068290. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Restaurant Richard The nondescript street belies the splendor of Richard’s gourmet creations and interior, which includes carved wooden ceilings and stainedglass. The 19th-century architecture gets a modern boost from the décor. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. restaurant-richard.de. Köpenicker Str. 174. T: 030.49207242. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2
Rutz
Daily from noon to 10 pm. www.balthazar-spreeufer.de
Tim Raue
that a wine was made with grapes not grown by the winemaker.
Elevating the concept of eating locally and seasonally to exceptional gourmet heights, Nobelhart & Schmutzig serves impressive 10-course dinners highlighting the flavors and textures of the best ingredients they could get their hands on. A welcoming atmosphere and charismatic host only add to the experience. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. nobelhartundschmutzig.com. Friedrichstr. 218. T: 030.25940610. U Kochstraße. 4E
T: 0 30 30 88 21 56 Email: info@balthazar-spreeufer.de
Part of the andel’s Hotel, Skykitchen brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2
From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. RudiDutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. Weinkellerei indicates U Kochstraße. E4
Nobelhart & Schmutzig
Insider‘s tip: daytime menu starting at e15.
Skykitchen
Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4
Vau
At once luxurious and minimalist, the Michelin-starred Vau is one of the highest caliber restaurants in the city. Headed by star chef Kolja Kleeberg, who has since expanded upon his fame with a TV cooking show, the kitchen combines the best of French and German culinary traditions. €€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.vau-berlin.de. Jägerstr. 54–55. T: 030.2029730. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3
CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF Balthazar Modern European. Deep in the heart of the chic west, Balthazar has been a go-to destination for high-end dining since 2006. Its culinary concept of “metropolitan cuisine” takes the best of French, German, and Mediterranean food and adds a delicate touch of creative Asian influences. When in Mitte, check out the second location, Balthazar 2, on the Spreeufer. €€€. Daily D. www.restaurantbalthazar.de. Kurfürstendamm 160. T: 030 89408477. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the
bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4
Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its
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DINING menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. Housed in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters, designed for sharing, tempts as much as do the sumptuous main dishes and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. Religious influences aside, the thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4
FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3
Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style
Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. When in Mitte, try their second location at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map
Kreuzberg
Michelin Guide's Newest Member When the Michelin Guide announced late last year which Berlin restaurants had earned a star in its 2016 edition, one new name on the list caught everyone’s attention. In its one year on Berlin’s culinary scene, Nobelhart & Schmutzig (p. 44) has already managed to stir up plenty of buzz, with one local magazine even dubbing it Germany’s most radical restaurant. Though only a few years into his 30s, Billy Wagner was already a famed sommelier when he ventured out to start his own restaurant with an uncompromisingly local culinary concept. That means eschewing staples like lemons and olive oil, and instead going to great lengths to source the region's best-quality, seasonal ingredients – in the cold months, that means things like eel, lamb, or kale. Guests sit around a long table to enjoy the 10-course set menu, quickly going from strangers to friends.
Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www. jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kotbusser Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4
Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and
club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Mitte Balthazar 2 Spreeufer International. The new branch of the Charlottenburg establishment, this central restaurant is bound to become a popular destination among Berliners thanks to its creative dishes,which include a tomato and ginger soup, a Thai chicken salad with nuts, or mushroom risotto with cardamon. €€–€€€. Daily D. www.balthazar-spreeufer.de. Balthazar Spreeufer 2. T: 030.30882156. U Klosterstraße. F3
Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot
of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3
Cookies Cream
makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is much more than a sightseeing destination. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. Located on the roof of the Reichstag building, the restaurant boasts splendid views in addition to the refined, modern German cuisine. Reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.
Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian
dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3
The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that
Tiergarten Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE
All Berlin’s A Stage In a city with an art scene as renowned as Berlin’s, there’s no shortage of theater – even for those with a limited knowledge of German. Performances in English, with surtitles, or those easily understood through the universal language of music can be found in most every corner of the city. Several long-term shows were conceived specifically with international audiences in mind. Showing at the Friedrichstadt-Palast since its 2014 premiere, The Wyld is as much homage to the capital city as it is Vegas spectacular, with over-the-top sets and state-of-the-art special effects backing an intergalactic love story. At Stars in Concert, impersonators bring a rotating list of the music world’s biggest names to the stage, allowing audiences to take in performances by the likes (or likenesses) of Elvis, Madonna, Louis Armstrong, and Cher all in one show.
For Broadway classics, the revival of Chicago at the Stage Theater des Westens lands direct from the Great White Way, while Tempodrom presents Der Phantom der Oper (The Phantom of the Opera) for one night only (9 January). Music transcends language in the worldwide sensation known as the Blue Man Group, which, after an initial successful run,
put down permanent roots at its own theater nearly a decade ago and has gone on to become something of a Berlin theater institution. Even if you can’t sing along, you can still tap your feet to the tunes of two of the biggest names in German-language pop. Just as Mamma Mia! wove some of Abba’s most popular hits into a theatrical smash, Hinterm Horizont (Beyond the Horizon) uses Udo Lindenberg’s classics as the backdrop for the German rocker’s own tale of becoming the first West German musician to perform in the former GDR. When Ich War Noch Niemals in New York (I’ve Never Been to New York) returns to Berlin at the end of the month, audiences will once again be treated to the romantic comedy featuring chart-toppers by Udo Jürgen. And, of course, timeless classics know no language barriers, so check our ballet and opera listings for additional ideas for night at the theater.
THE WYLD: COURTESY OF FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST; BLUEMAN GROUP: © BLUEMAN GROUP.
Jenna Rose Robbins checked out the stage sensations of the season.
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BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 2 Jan: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 3 Jan: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). 6, 10 Jan: Tosca (Puccini). 7, 30 Jan: Nabucco (Verdi). 9, 17 Jan: La Traviata (Verdi). 31 Jan: Lohengrin (Wagner). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1 Jan: New Year’s Concert: Rossinissimo! 2, 10 Jan: Der feurige Engel (Prokofiev). 8, 24 Jan: Les Contes d’Hoffmann (Offenbach). 9, 14, 23 Jan: West Side Story (Bernstein). 12 Jan: Eine Frau, die weiß, was sie will! (Straus). 15 Jan: My Fair Lady (Loewe). 7, 16, 17, 29, 30 Jan: Kiss me, Kate (Cole Porter). 31 Jan: Jewgeni Onegin (Tchaikovsky). www. komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3
Staatsballett
Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 16 Jan: Beethoven Salon. 21, 23 Jan: Konzerthausorchester (cond. Eliahu Inbal) performs Wagner and Bruckner. 29 Jan: The Rundfunksinfonieorchester Berlin (cond. Marek Janowski) (cond. Eliahu Inbal) performs Debussy. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3
Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other acclaimed ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 8–10 Jan: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Christian Thielemann, mezzo soprano Sophie Koch) perform Debussy and Fauré. 14–16 Jan: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Thielemann, pianist Maurizio Pollini) perform Schumann, Chopin, Reimann and Strauss. 21–23 Jan: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Harding, violinist ZImmermann) perform Berlioz, Lindberg, Boulez, Schumann. 27–29 Jan: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Fischer, mezzo soprano Anna Larsson) perform Mahler’s Third Symphony. www.berliner-philharmoniker. de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 1 Jan: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky). 2, Barenboim is not just one of 4, 12, 14, 21 Jan: Duato|Kylian. 3, Rundfunkthe world’s most acclaimed 22 Jan: Multiplicity. Forms of Silence Sinfonieorchester Berlin Beethoven interpreters. and Emptiness. Music by Bach, Chor. Injecting new expression into 19thHe is also the director of Nacho Duato. 7, 10 Jan: Onegin the Staatsoper. and 20th-century classical works (Tchaikovsky). 16, 20 Jan: Swan Lake under the lead of Marek Janowski, the (Tchaikovsky). 22, 23, 24 Jan: Hänsel and oldest German radio orchestra with its Gretel (Grieg). www.staatsballett-berlin.de. 103 members has won a place in the top tier of T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3 European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.
Staatsoper im Schiller Theater
Tickets: 030.20298715.
While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 1, 3, 6 Jan: The Magic Flute (Mozart). 8, 16, 19 Jan: La Boheme (Verdi). 17, 20, 22, 24 Jan: Ariadne auf Naxos (Strauss). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
DANCE & EXPERIMENTAL SPACES
CLASSICAL CONCERTS Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 2 Jan: Czech Chamber Philharmonie, Prague (cond. Hein, soprano Jelinkova) play Strauss Jr. and Smetana. 6 Jan: Kammerakademie Potsdam, clarinet Andreas Ottermeier play works by Dvorak, Telemann, Brahms. 14 Jan: Carte Blanche. 17 Jan: The Philharmonia Quartett play Sibelius, Bach, and others. 19, 24 Jan: The Philharmonia Quartett play Sibelius, Bach, and others. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year, many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3
Dock 11 Studios & Eden***** Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden***** Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map
Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2
MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 www.wheretraveler.com 47
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ENTERTAINMENT
10
Things We Love About Berlin
There are many reasons to love the German capital. Read on to discover what we love most about the city.
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AuguststraSSe in Mitte: one long art gallery. Shopping at KaDeWe: the biggest department store in Europe. The multicultural population: hundreds of languages and foods.
Cheerily Singin’ The Blues
The buildings’ facades: a feast of architectural styles. The culture: three opera houses and myriad theaters big and small. The city’s laid-back nature: a relaxed, casual look rules. The Spree River and the city’s endless waterways.
Odeon
B Flat Jazz Club
This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and popular new releases. www.yorck.de. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5
Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flat-berlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2
Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale film festival offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de. Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Rock, Pop, Jazz & World A-Trane
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The culinary diversity, from arroz con pollo to Zimtsterne. Experiencing the city by night. Berlin is safe, lively, and insomniac. The Asisi Wall Panorama: a journey back in time.
Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4
Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. 24 Jan: Parkway Drive. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5
Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map
Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 1–2 Jan: Puhdys in concert. 16–17 Jan: Apassionata. 24 Jan: Imagine, a gymnastics show. 27 Jan: Kevin Hart, comedy show. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4
Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of
Courtesy of blues brothers – the smash hit approved.
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Some would say the Blues Brothers were the coolest guys to hit screens big and small in the late ‘70s. Starting out as an American rhythm and blues revival band as part of a Saturday Night Live musical sketch by comedians Dan Aykroyd and John Belushi, the fictional brothers quickly became legends, and were even turned into a Hollywood movie not once but twice. The characters and the music are back (minus the original actors) in the show The Blues Brothers – The Smash Hit Approved, already a hit on London’s West End and in Chicago. 17 Jan at Tempodrom (this page).
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events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 1 Jan: Roncalli Christmas Circus. 5 Jan: My Fair Lady. 6 Jan: Gaelforce Dance. 8 Jan: Circus meets Michael Jackson. 9 Jan: The Phantom of the Opera. 10 Jan: Russian Ballet from Moscow. 17 Jan: The Blues Brothers. 20–22 Jan: Hans Klok, the “new Houdini.” 24 Jan: The Great Chinese National Circus. 31 Jan: Film Music Concert. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4
Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Bluemax Theater The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Daily shows, except Monday. www.stage-entertainment.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Wunderkammer. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2
The best events in town
Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions, and variety shows at this 1920 theater. All month: The Wyld, a €10-million Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. Shows every day except Monday. www.palastberlin.eu. Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3
Theater am Potsdamer Platz The 1800-seat theater designed by Renzo Piano features musicals and international performances. All month: Beyond the Horizon, musical (German with English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www.stage-entertainment. de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Theater des Westens One of Berlin’s most popular musical and operetta theaters. Until 17 Jan: Chicago: The Musical. From 24 Jan: Ich war noch niemals in New York. www.stageentertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 16 Jan: CarringtonBrown Duo. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3
Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4
IMAGE © THINKSTOCK
Tipi am Kanzleramt
®
Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 49
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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
In Isherwood’s Footsteps Christopher Isherwood once wrote, “Berlin affected me like a party at the end of which I didn’t want to go home.” Rejecting his upper-middle-class English background, the author moved to Berlin in 1929, and as a young gay man was lured in by the excitement of the waning Weimar era. He lived near Nollendorfplatz, which in those days was a thriving center of creativity and liberalism, and just a short walk to the iconic club Eldorado, famous for its transvestite shows and regular visits by Berlin’s very own Marlene Dietrich. Isherwood’s building at Nollendorfstr. 17 was full of eccentrics, who provided much of the inspiration for his novels’ characters, including the quirky would-be singer Sally Bowles of Goodbye to Berlin (1939). The book later inspired the famous Broadway musical Cabaret, which was followed by the Oscarwinning film, with Liza Minnelli as the bohemian Bowles. For two and half years, Isherwood lived happily in Nollendorfstraße
before departing to America as the threat of Nazism grew. Today, the neighborhood still proudly flies the rainbow flag, but organic supermarket Speisekammer im Eldorado stands in place of the namesake club, while a rare-book store operates in Isherwood’s former residence. Although none of the bars and clubs the author wrote about exist any longer, there are a number of retro cocktail bars more than worthy of a good night out. Across the road from the author’s former abode is speakeasy Stagger Lee (www.staggerlee.de), which sports chic Wild West saloon décor, with wood paneling and an antique cash register standing proudly on the bar. The impeccable drinks, the bourbon in particular, are to be sipped slowly to the soundtrack of
Johnny Cash. One street down on Winterfeldtstraße, you can ring the bell and step inside Green Door (www.greendoor.de). The smoky local institution has a classy-kitsch interior and the drinks are top-shelf labels only. If the menu is too overwhelming, the English-speaking bartender’s recommendation is sure to hit the spot. Around the corner in Eisenacher Straße sits the stylish 1920s-themed café and bar named after the one and only Sally Bowles (www. sally-bowles.de), with regular musical performances retracing the history of cabaret and a decadent snack menu. For a comprehensive walking tour of Isherwood’s Berlin, join the cabaret tour with guide and author Brendan Nash (www. isherwoodsneighborhood.com).
COURTESY OF GREEN DOOR
With the fictionalized memoirs of an English novelist as her guide, Annabelle Mallia explored the nightlife, past and present, of Nollendorfplatz.
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Beer Ankerklause A canal-side nautical tavern. Drinks come with beautiful views of boats passing by. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm) www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4
Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4
Try expert cocktails in a cool, post-industrial setting at Le Croco Bleu (Prenzlauer Allee 242).
Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4
Berghain/Panorama Bar
Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Known as the “world capital of techno,” the club straddling the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain (thus the name) is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultraselected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3
Schleusenkrug
Clärchens Ballhaus
A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
Prater
Casinos Spielbank Berlin
courtesy of le croco bleu; next page: beer: ©istock photos.
chats under the stars. Open Fri from 7pm till late, Sat from 8pm. www.ambersuite.info. Mariendorfer Damm 1. T: 030.74070609. U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map
A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4
Clubs Adagio A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dancehall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorativechic style. Fri–Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.2589890. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Amber Suite This fun club for over-27s is the perfect place to socialize while dancing and drinking. There are two dance floors (playing house, dance music, and black beats), three bar lounges, a buffet with barbecue in summer, and a pleasant terrace for
Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed celebrities like Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3
Horns & Hooves This Prenzlauer Berg newcomer is an eccentric combination of a club, a piano bar, a cabaret, and a circus. www.hornsandhooves.de. Danziger Str. 1. U Eberswalder Str. F1
House of Weekend Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.weekend-berlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Kater Blau Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at www.wheretraveler.com 51
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NIGHTLIFE
Magnet Club Rock, indie, and punk evenings, and dance floors both indoors and outdoors. Open Tue–Sun. www.magnet-club.de. Falckensteinstr. 48. T: 030.44008140. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18. T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4
The Pearl One of the most luxurious clubs in town attracts the poshest crowds, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten. G4
Prince Charles A stylish club set in an old swimming pool building. Tiled walls and concrete flooring are the main elements of its décor. Cocktail bar in the evening, wild dance club at night. Fri–Sun night. www.princecharlesberlin.com. Prinzenstr. 85F. U Moritzplatz. F4
Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting, with fabulous views from the roof of the Europa Center. Dress up. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. T: 030.26367875. U Zoologischer Garten, U Wittenbergplatz. C4
The Roses Berlin Kitsch is the word at this fun gay- and straightfriendly Kreuzberg bar. Cheap drinks. Daily from 9pm. Oranienstr. 187. T: 030.6156570. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4
Wine & Cocktails
Green Door Cocktail Bar
Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
Die Weinerei €1 will get you a glass, which you can fill as many times as you want. Before you leave, leave as much money as you think your evening was worth. Friendly, unpretentious atmosphere, and good, organic food. Mon–Fri 1–8pm, Sat 11am–8pm. www.weinerei.com. Veteranenstr. 14. T: 030.4406983. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2
Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4
LaBanca Bar
The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avant-garde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers Berlin’s wildest club and also served. Live music Wed–Sat, nightlife scene is rooftop terrace in summer. www. concentrated along hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. Revaler Straße, near T: 030.4606090. Warschauer Straße. U Französische Straße. E3
Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton. com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in
Salon zur Wilden Renate In an old residential building on the cooler side of Friedrichshain, Wilde Renate is hugely popular with young and wild Berliners. Antlers, grand pianos, and heavy curtains create the atmosphere, and the sound system is impeccable. Thu–Sat from midnight. www.renate.cc. Alt-Stralau 70. T: 030.25041426. S Treptower Park, S Ostkreuz. H4
Le Croco Bleu Expert bar staff puts great care into each of the elaborate, oftentimes inventive drinks they make, and creative presentation makes the drinking experience even more memorable. www.lecrocobleu.com. Prenzlauer Allee 242. T: 151.58247804. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar. de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3
The Oscar Wilde Irish Pub The first Irish pub in Mitte, offering classics like Kilkenny and Guinness. Big screen for sporting events. Daily 10am-3am (Fri-Sat until 4am). www. oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de. Friedrichstr. 112a. T: 030.2828166. U Oranienburger Tor. E2
Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2
Soda Club This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to electro and techno. www.soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Schwarzes Café Eat, drink, and be merry. It’s all possible at this 24hour spot, which combines a surprisingly elegant interior with an unpretentious atmosphere. Latenight kitchen and an affordable – not to mention exhaustive – cocktail menu. 24h daily except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4
Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3
Times Bar
Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de.
One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Beer fans: sip traditional Bavarian brews at Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt (Charlottenstr. 55).
A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. Open daily from noon to late evening. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4
PHOTO © istock
Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau. de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3
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THE GUIDE | ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.
T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.
Tourist Passes Museum Berlin Pass: allows three days of unlimited access to major museums. www.visitberlin.de Berlin Welcome Card: public transport for three days and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. www.visitberlin.de City Tour Card: as above, but conditions vary, so best to check which is most suitable for you. www.citytourcard.com
BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten
ASK THE CONCIERGE Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Sandra Bösemüller, concierge at the Regent Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What would be your perfect day?
My perfect day begins in the Bötzow neighborhood with breakfast in Spreegold, followed by a walk along Kollwitzstraße in the direction of Alte Schönhauser Straße and shopping around Rosenthaler Platz, and ends with dinner and a glass of Riesling at Cordobar. When you have visitors, where do you take them?
I take them to the Reichstag dome so they can see Berlin from above, then to the Turkish market at Maybachufer, and at the end of the day to my local restaurant, Nobelhart & Schmutzig.
COURTESY OF THE REGENT BERLIN
What are your Berlin secrets?
I am a big fan of the photo tours through the Beelitzer Heilstätten – an abandoned sanatorium for the terminally ill of the early 1900s. Describe Berlin in three words.
Hectic, inspirational, alternative. What do you do after your work?
My favorite thing to do is eat steak tartare in the Aigner restaurant.
What is your wildest experience as concierge?
During the 2014 World Cup in Düsseldorf we had the DFB (German Football Association) as guests. It was the most stressful and wildest week I have ever experienced Which event do you recommend in January?
A tour of the current Boros collection of contemporary art, housed inside a WWII bunker. Where do you feel most comfortable in Berlin?
On my bicycle seat. Tips for a German specialty?
Tim Raue's La Soupe Populaire conjures up wonderful German specialties. I can recommend the Haxe (roasted pork knuckle). What distinguishes Berlin from other cities?
Berlin is always exciting, lively, and dirty. Do you know a romantic place in Berlin?
A movie night for two at Zoopalast. Top image: The Regent Berlin
run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.
Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated
RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.
GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.
Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy www.wheretraveler.com 53
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ESSENTIALS a short-trip ticket for €1.60. Day tickets cost €6.90 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €16.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €29.50.
U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.
S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.
Public Ferries
Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.
Rent A Bike Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:
www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.
Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.
Just opened in 2009, U55 Bundestag station is not only one of the newest U-Bahn stops in the city, it’s part of an underground line that, at only 1800 meters (1.1 mi) long, is believed to be the shortest in the world. By 2020, the U55 will meet up with the U5 line at Alexanderplatz to form one long network from Hauptbahnhof train station all the way to the eastern fringes of the city. But in the meantime, the three-station-long U55 faithfully shuttles tourists and commuters between Hauptbahnhof and the Brandenburg Gate, making one stop at U Bundestag along the way.
Real Estate Agencies Ad Hoc Immobilien Specializes in Berlin and Brandenburg real estate sales. Apartments, entire buildings, villas, and more. www.adhoc-immo.de. Hohe Allee 36, 15366 Neuenhagen bei Berlin. T: 03342.259560. Off Map
Allianz Offers select properties and is developing a number of building projects in various areas of Berlin. www.allianz-realestate.com. Joachimstalerstr. 10-12. T: 030.212343562. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Toll number: 0180.6003690
Berlin Capital Investments
Taxis
Specializes in apartment sales in central Berlin for both investment and self-use. Visit website to search for small units, big apartments, or penthouses in Berlin’s most popular neighborhoods. www.berlin-capital.com. T: 030.52009700.
Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.
Money Services Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.
T: 030.8904370.
Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440
Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a "tax-free form" when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.
Berlin Hyp Immobilien Helps clients better understand the German real estate market and offers a wide range of commercial properties, from office buildings to industrial estates to shops. www.berlinhyp-immobilien.de. Budapester Str. 1. T: 030.25999908. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Berlin Yield Estate Residential and commercial buildings in Berlin. www.berlinyieldestate.com. Unter den Linden 16. T: 030.68324467. U Französische Straße. E3
Berlinmaegleren Covers a wide range of property types, from villas to apartments, and also offers rental services. Second branch in Prenzlauer Berg. www.berlinmaegleren.de. Rankestr. 30. T: 030.61202398. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
BNP Paribas Real Estate With its own subsidiaries and a close-knit network, this real estate agency is present nationwide.
Covers all relevant real estate markets and ensures detailed and comprehensive knowledge of the local market. www.realestate.bnpparibas.de. Neues Kranzler Eck. Kurfürstendamm 22. T: 030.884650. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Engel & Voelkers One of the world’s leading service companies in the provision of high-quality residential and commercial real estate and yachts in the premium segment. www.engelvoelkers.com. Bleibtreustr. 34-35. T: 030.88001188. S Savignyplatz. B4
Guthmann Estate Architects, economists, certified real estate agents, and apprentices serve international clients and provide real estate services, building project planning, and supervision, as well as analyses and market reports. www.guthmann-estate.com. Blücherstr. 22. T: 030.69004240. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
HIHC Horvat This real estate service agency will analyze clients’ housing needs and find an apartment to buy or rent on their behalf. HICH Horvat also offers relocation services for expats and international clients. www.hihc.de. Olympische Str. 1. T: 030.33099930. U Neu Westend. Off Map
Virtu - Finest Real Estate Experts in the field of real estate, law, and economics joined to set new standards in the field of real estate marketing and consulting in Germany. www.virtu.com.de/en/. Jägerstr. 58-60. T: 030.20679590. U Französische Straße. E3
Your Place Berlin These real estate agents and mediators offer personalized services and free consultations, promising to negotiate better deals for their clients. They specialize in clients who live abroad, offering to perform all research and to visit the apartments before the client’s arrival. www. yourplaceberlin.com. Willibald-Alexis-Str. 2. T: 030.53064083. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
© istock photos
With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.
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TRANSPORT MAP
BVG licence number: BVG-0024.15.
ESSENTIALS
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04/12/2015 11:08
U
WHERE NOW | ISABELL DE HILLERIN
My Perfect Day 2
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ISABELL DE HILLERIN FASHION DESIGNER
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You grew up in Munich and studied fashion in Barcelona. What led you to choose Berlin as the base for your label? Berlin is a city I visited a lot during my time in Barcelona, and it always felt like there was so much more to see and do here. It was a spontaneous decision to move to Berlin and to find out how the fashion scene would react to my work. It actually turned out to be the perfect choice to start my label here. Describe the Isabell de Hillerin woman. A woman with an independent and strong character. She has an individual sense of style and appreciates quality, as well as the story behind a product. What is one must-have item from your current collection? The coats are definitely one of the must-haves for this winter. The wool blend coat in ash color with its long, straight silhouette is very elegant and classic. The autumn/ winter collection is available in the Isabell de Hillerin online store.
Berlin designer Isabell de Hillerin founded her eponymous label in 2009, pushing the boundaries of what is considered sustainable fashion. Harking back to her Romanian roots, she enlisted artisans from Romania and Moldova to source the materials for her looks, which are clean, contemporary, elegant, and innovative while still nurturing a connection to folkloric origins. Find the current collection in her online shop, www.isabelldehillerin.com. Where in Berlin would you recommend for great people-watching and getting fashion inspiration? Mitte is full of cafés and restaurants that could be good spots to drink a coffee and watch people. I like going for pancakes and coffee at Distrikt Coffee (Bergstr. 68, www.districtcoffee. de). I would also recommend the fashion stores Konk (Kleine Hamburger Str. 15, www. konk-berlin.de) and Baerck (Mulackstr. 12, www. baerck.net). Also, the Andreas Murkudis concept store (Potsdamer Str. 81e, www. andreasmurkudis.com) is always perfect for getting some inspiration. If Berlin were a person, what would its style be? It’s hard to say, because Berlin is a city with all kinds of people, cultures, and different styles. That’s actually the best thing about this city. You cannot talk about one style Berlin stands for… It's a mix of everything. It never gets boring. Which part of Berlin do you call home, and what drew you to it? I live and work in Kreuzberg and would definitely call this
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corner of Berlin my home. All my closest friends live no more than 15 minutes away and Kreuzberg has so many different faces, changing from street to street – a variety I appreciate and get a lot of inspiration from. Imagine you have the luxury of a whole day off. How would you spend it? I love spending my free time with my friends and family, having long dinners with a glass of wine. During the day I love to escape with my dog to the woods of Grunewald, or to see an art exhibition. I also like going to Street Food Thursday at Markthalle Neun, to Lugosi Bar in Kreuzberg (Reichenberger Str. 152), or having dinner at the Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle restaurant and wine bar (Auguststr. 36, www. alcontadino.eu). Any other tips for what to do during Fashion Week? Definitely Der Berliner Mode Salon, a pop-up store at KaDeWe, where 27 selected German designers, myself included, will present their spring/summer 2016 collections. Clockwise from top left: 1. The KaDeWe, still continental Europe's largest department store; 2. Isabell de Hillerin; 3. restaurant Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle; 4. a view of Kreuzberg; 5. the Bikini Berlin concept mall; 6. Isabell de Hillerin's style.
KADEWE: © ISTOCK PHOTOS.; BIKINI BERLIN: COURTESY OF BIKINI BERLIN: ISABELL DE HILLERIN: PHOTO BY MATTI; ISABELL DE HILLERIN'S STYLE: COURTESY OF ISABELLE DE HILLERIN; AL CONTADINO SOTTO LE STELLE: PHOTO BY CHRISTIAN DEL MONTE; KREUZBERG: © ISTOCK PHOTOS.
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58 W H E R E B E R L I N I J A N UA R Y 2016
58 WB JAN PERFECT DAY.indd 58
09/12/2015 14:19
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CLUB
BAR
Fridays
Cosmopolitan Cocktails & Exquisite Spirits
Saturdays
Daily 6pm – open end
11pm - open end Clubbing to Live Music 11pm - open end Urban Club Sounds
Hirtenstraße 4 | 10178 Berlin www.the-grand-berlin.com
WB THE GRAND.indd 1
RESTAURANT Business Lunch Mo. - Fr. 12pm - 3pm
Dinner
Mo. - Su. 6pm - 11pm
Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55
02/12/2015 09:19
SEE WHAT´S NEW BEST OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS Monday onday - Saturday 10am - 9pm
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01.12.15 15:51 01/12/2015 15:17