Where Magazin Juli 2015 by Where Berlin/ DINAMIX Media GmbH

JULY 2 0 15 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

Berlin

速

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

PLUS Alfresco Events Chic Street Food Sculpture Gardens

Berlin

Fashion Redefining couture in the capital

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB JULY 15 COVER.indd 9

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Exclusive & unique hand-made jewelry, fashion and home décor

SPECIAL OPENING OFFER!

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Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12, First floor Tel: +49 30 20143466 | www.michalnegrin.com * Valid until 31.7.2015 by presenting this code: 100-899999-001. May not be combined with any other offer. Tax refund for residents outside the European Union

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Berlin

07.15

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

5 Editor’s Note

SHOPPING

2XX0 20

6 Hot Dates

Mix up your individual style with basics from UNIQLO.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from a festival of color to alfresco art.

SIGHTSEEING

34 34

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

40 40

Soak XX up the sun while strolling a sculpture garden. DINING

46 46

66 My Perfect Day

Let your taste buds travel the globe by sampling XX Berlin's street-food scene. ENTERTAINMENT

Dr. Matthias Harder The chief curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation discusses the Berlin art scene.

The Yamato drummers give tempo to the rhythm of life.

NIGHTLIFE

Also Inside

Explore Savignyplatz's cafés and clubs for a glimpse into the nightlife of former West Berlin.

61 Ask The Concierge Linda Urban from the Waldorf Astoria shares her outdoor tips.

Berlin

JULY 2 0 15 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

Where Now

ESSENTIALS

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

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These summer party accessories will leave you sizzling hot.

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Redefining couture in the capital

BY HILDA HOY AND

Local designer Esther Perbandt deconstructs Berlin style.

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Fashion

With Berlin summer in full swing, the best place to be is outdoors.

16 You've Got the Look

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10 Let's Go Outside

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PLUS Alfresco Events Chic Street Food Sculpture Gardens

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TESTINO: COURTESY OF MARIO TESTINO; ICE CREAM: COURTESY OF WOOP WOOP ICECREAM; ESTHER PERBANDT: © BIRGIT KAULFUSS; BIKINI BERLIN: COURTESY OF BIKINI HAUS; CLASSIC OPEN AIR: © DAVIDS

XX is well and truly Cycling ingrained in the Berlin culture, so start pedaling.

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4 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2015

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

Summer Days There’s something magical about the Northern summer. The Brothers Grimm and all their fairytalewriter colleagues did a wondrous job describing the bright, balmy afternoons, the berry-rich forests, the slanting, cooler sun rays creating long but faint shadows. The Berlin summer is rarified, and certainly less intense than the loud Mediterranean July days I'm used to from my childhood in Italy, but it has a great deal of charm nonetheless – and I just can’t get enough of it.

If all these activities sound tempting, wait until you read our list of summer recommendations (p. 10), from music festivals to outdoor adventures, beer gardens to pleasant spots in the sun. And since no summer afternoon would be complete without a cold, sweet ice cream, we've compiled a long list of choice gelaterias and semifreddo shops, for staying refreshed all month long. I would also like to introduce you to Jenna Rose Robbins, our talented new editorial manager who will be managing Where Berlin for a few months. Jenna has brought her sunny attitude and expert knowledge of pop and rock music, history, and technology all the way from California.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TTHINKSTOCK

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

permanen

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open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Berlin can get hot in July, and Berliners like to spend as much time as they can next to the water, which the capital fortunately has plenty of. The city map is dotted with more than 30 lakes connected to each other by kilometers of waterways, and there's an outdoor swimming pool in almost every neighborhood. For a good lake swim in authentic Berlin style, choose between Plötzensee, Krumme Lanke, Schlachtensee, Müggelsee, and Strandbad Wannsee and dive in to get an idyllic view of the surrounding vegetation. If it’s something more urban you're looking for, the Arena Badeschiff (p. 12) floating swimming pool offers industrial views from the Spree river smack in the middle of town.

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until September, 30th 2015.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de N L A S O A Y E D I R 0 E S H R G N E T K

S E T G L T I N W N N 7 H C E F E G R E R

A A I E E T N M A T U S R H O K N W A L I

T K K H O E F U R E N N H W R G A A K L E

O S A E N N O S A R G O E O I B U T T I G

P H N I 9 R R E G A B W R E E Z F C E T B

A A W M / E M U E K E D B R M E K H 2 K O

S C O E 1 I A M N T R E S U A I L I 0 A N

W K L S 1 C T W T I L N T N U T A N 1 L D

I E F N S H I O C V I A V G L Z E S 5 T W

K R M A C S O R I T N B E S W E R I S E W

I V F P H P N L A A 0 W R T U U U D A R W

www.spymuseumberlin.com

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

HOT DAT Whether you wish to peruse artwork or become part of a kaleidoscope of color, July in Berlin holds a trove of events to please every palate.

SATURDAY

GARTEN PARTY

Once a year, the Botanical Gardens opens its gates for Botanische Nacht, a sultry summer evening filled with flora and fireworks. Be wowed by the 16k (10mi) illuminated garden path, take in a guided tour of the greenhouses and botanical museum, and attend a lecture to learn more about the city's native vegetation. Festivities, including live concerts and theater performances, go until 2am. www.bgbm.org

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UNTIL SUNDAY

LAST CHANCE!

You have until today to admire the work of fashion photographer Mario Testino, who has lensed such superstars as Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss for Vogue and took the iconic Vanity Fair pictures of Princess Diana a few months before her death. His show Mario Testino: In Your Face at the Kunstbibliothek presents 125 of his images. www.smb.museum

SUNDAY

TES 28

ART ALFRESCO The Oberbaumbrücke, the bridge between Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg, comes alive for the 13th annual Open Air Gallery. Traffic will be diverted so art lovers can browse photographs, sculptures, paintings, and graphics from more than 100 creative talents. Be sure to add your own artistic touch to the 120m (395ft) canvas that’s open for doodling, sketching, or your next magnum opus. www.openairgallery.de

FROM TUESDAY

MUSICAL SUPERSTARS A timeless story paired with the work of musical super-team Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice has made rock opera Jesus Christ Superstar a nonstop tour de force for nearly half a century. Stars from London’s West End comprise the cast, which performs at the Deutsche Oper. www.deutscheoperberlin.de www.wheretraveler.com w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. com 7

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Our recommendations for every day of the month!

FROM TUESDAY

MASTERS OF MIME Think you don’t like mimes? Then you probably haven’t experienced the whimsical fantasy of Mummenschanz, a troupe of Swiss performers whose popularity once earned them a threeyear run on Broadway. The masked artistes’ latest show celebrates 40 years of wordless poetry and surreal art forms. www.komische-oper-berlin.de

SUNDAY

LATIN GROOVES

The original Santana lineup returns with crowd-pleasing guitar riffs on The Corazón Tour at the MercedesBenz Arena. Expect fan favorites such as Evil Ways, as well as new tracks from both the band’s latest release and the legendary frontman’s first-ever all-Latin album. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin. de

SATURDAY

FLYING COLORS

What began as a traditional Hindu celebration has gained popularity in Europe and other corners of the globe in recent years, picking up some local flavor along the way. At the Holi Festival of Colors, held at the Reiterstadion in Olympiapark, participants pepper each other with fistfuls of rice flour dyed every color of the rainbow, while, in true Berlin style, DJs – including K-Paul and Izzy Trixx – provide the soundtrack for the polychromatic antics. www.holifestival.com

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

JULY Get energized with an Espresso-Konzert at Konzerthaus. It's "caffeine for the ears!" They're the coolest bearded trio in rock: See ZZ Top live at Zitadelle Spandau tonight. Take a stroll amongst in-bloom flowers and ponds at Britzer Garden in Neukölln. Check out local singer-songwriter talent with today's Down By The River Festival. An international array of cuisine awaits at KulturBrauerei's weekly street-food market. It's open-air movie time again! Pull up a lawnchair at the Freiluftkino Kreuzberg. Walk on the wild side at Berlin’s famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park. Pass the evening at the historic Konzerthaus with the Berliner Sibelius Orchester. Visit the Reichstag to enjoy sweeping city views from inside the famous glass cupola. The moving melodies of Portuguese fado take over the Botanical Garden this evening. Catch a lively performance of Don Giovanni at the ongoing Komische Oper Festival. Art and culinary delights abound at Schloss Charlottenburg's Duckstein Festival. The students of the state ballet school perform in their festive annual gala. Feel the beat of the taiko drums: The Yamato troupe of Japan performs at Komische Oper.

Hop a train to Potsdam to admire the regal gardens of Sanssouci in summer splendor. Shake a leg at the outdoor, riverside dance floor of the Monbijou Theater. The ever-changing DUMMY lab at Chamäleon Varieté combines video and acrobatic dance.

Admire Chinese drawings from the Ming and Qing dynasties at the Museum for Asian Art. The weekend flea market on Straße des 17. Juni in Tiergarten park is a Berlin must. Cruise the Spree River! Hop on a boat tour leaving from the Schiff bauerdamm pier. Join Berliners in a favorite summer pastime: a swim in west-end Schlachtensee lake. Art fans will love the Gemäldegalerie, a museum of Renaissance paintings. Last chance! The exhibit of Mario Testino's fashion photos at Kulturforum ends Sunday. Be wowed by The Wyld, a futuristic Las Vegasstyle show at Friedrichstadt-Palast. View Halina Khudnitskaya's pastel paintings in the exhibit Autumn in the Pushkin Mountains. Crown off the weekend with a lavish brunch at Anna Blume Café in Prenzlauer Berg. Catch a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, one of few theaters to play movies in English. The colorful antics of the legendary Blue Man Group delight at the BLUEMAX Theater. Fan of German film? Don't miss the Fassbinder exhibit at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Dog lovers: Take in the whimsical Gone to the Dogs exhibit at the Kupferstichkabinett. Grab a seat in the famed Prater Biergarten – a fine way to pass a summer evening.

MUMMENSCHANZ: COURTESY OF BB PROMOTION; SANTANA: © ERIK KABIK; COLORS: COURTESY OF HOLI FESTIVAL OF COLORS. TESTINO: © MARIO TESTINO; BOTANISCHE NACHT: COURTESY OF BOTANISCHER GARTEN; OBERBAUMBRÜCKE: OPENAIRGALLERY; JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR: © PAMELA RAITH.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

8 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2015

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BEST OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS & LABELS

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MALLOFBERLIN.DE 02.06.15 16:41 03/06/2015 10:33

WHERE NOW | OUTDOOR BERLIN

LET'S GO OUTSIDE The Berlin summer is in full swing! Dive into everything the season has to offer with Solveig Steinhardt and Hilda Hoy's tips for outdoor fun.

5 BEST OUTDOOR FOOD AND DRINK

STREET FOOD Eating outdoors is one of summer's greatest pleasures. Indulge at Village Market, the weekly street-food smorgasbord at the über-cool Neue Heimat venue. Besides food trucks and stands serving ribs, ice cream, dumplings, and burgers, there's also live music. Open Sun 12pm-late. Revaler Str. 99.

TO MARKET, TO MARKET! Visiting the farmers' market is a beloved pastime amongst

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Berliners, who flock to Prenzlauer Berg's Markt am Kollwitzplatz. Between browsing for fresh produce, local cheese and meats, and people-watching, you can snack on grilled sausages, fresh-baked goods, falafels, and Nutella-smeared crêpes. Open Thu 12pm–7pm, Sat 9am-4pm. Wörther Straße.

GARDEN OF PARADISE Summer = Biergarten season. This is Germany, after all! Idyllically located next

to a serene pond in Tiergarten park, Café am Neuen See boasts a charming beer garden that serves fresh pizzas and Bavarian specialties that complement its brews. Feeling adventurous? Take a rowboat out for a paddle and work off those carbs. Lichtensteinallee 2.

DINE WITH A VIEW On the banks of one of Berlin's most popular lakes, Schlachtensee, Fischerhütte has plenty of outdoor seating and serves up tasty German-

Austrian cuisine with a generous side portion of lake view. Fischerhüttenstr. 136.

GO THAI Visit Preußenpark on a weekend afternoon and you'll swear you're in Bangkok. Berlin's Thai community sets up here en masse for an informal event that's part picnic, part food market. Choose from fresh and authentic Thai dishes like spicy green papaya salad,

sizzling meat skewers, and noodle soups, prepared right there on the grass. Every Sat and Sun around 12–4pm.

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CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM: CLASSIC OPEN AIR: © DAVIDS; FISCHERHÜTTE: © LAGGNER GROUP; NEUE HEIMAT: COURTESY OF NEUE HEIMAT; OBERBAUMBRÜCKE: OPENAIRGALLERY; FIREWORKS: COURTESY OF CITADEL MUSIC FESTIVAL.

7 most popular summer EVENTS

MAKING MUSIC From 2–6 July, the Classic Open Air festival brings a range of orchestral concerts to historic Gendarmenmarkt square. Whether it's Puccini, Brahms, Edith Piaf, or Frank Sinatra that does it for you, the diverse program has it all. The kickoff concert stars a grand fireworks finale. www. classicopenair.de.

MOONLIT MOVIES Although there are a number of Freiluftkinos, or open-air movie theaters, that pop up during the summer season, Freiluftkino Kreuzberg is the one that best caters to nonGerman speakers, with a calendar that includes numerous undubbed English-language films. Grab some popcorn, cozy up in a lounge chair, and enjoy the show under the stars.

One screening nightly at 9:45pm, through 30 Aug. www.freiluftkinokreuzberg.de.

CUCKOO FOR KARAOKE The Sunday flea market at Mauerpark draws not only droves of bargain hunters but karaoke fans as well. Every weekend, spectators pack the park's big amphitheater to cheer on those brave enough to take the stage. Croon your own tune for the crowd and you'll have an unforgettable Berlin memory to take home. Sun 3–8pm.

HOT TO TROT Every evening until the weather gets cold, the outdoor dance floor next to Mitte's Monbijoutheater is the destination for fans of ballroom dance, who admittedly aren't quite catered to by Berlin's

famed techno clubs. Here, it's jitterbug and cha cha, salsa and tango that rule the dance floor. Come at 7pm for a dance lesson, or show up after 8 to cut a rug. Monbijoustr. 3.

ART ON THE BRIDGE On Sunday, 5 July, the Open Air Gallery takes over Oberbaumbrücke, the picturesque red-brick bridge connecting Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg. Traffic is blocked off to allow a select mix of established and amateur artists to show and sell their work – an ideal chance to pick up an artsy souvenir. www.openairgallery.de.

KNIGHTS AT NIGHT Every summer, the Zitadelle Spandau, a Renaissance fortress in the city's westernmost neighborhood, becomes the backdrop

for the concerts and performances of the Citadel Music Festival. Complete with a moat and a drawbridge, the venue has an ancient feel that is in full contrast to the city's modern spaces. Highlights this month include ZZ Top, Lindsey

Stirling, and Gregory Porter. www.citadelmusic-festival.de.

LAKESIDE STATUES A stately villa in a corner of the genteel Zehlendorf district is the unlikely home to an impressive collection of contemporary art. Besides the lakeside location, the best part of Haus am Waldsee is enjoying its sculpture garden on a sunny summer day. www. hausamwaldsee.de.

Clockwise from bottom: Classic Open Air at Gendarmenmarkt; Fischerhütte lakeside beer garden; The Village Market at Neue Heimat; Oberbaumbrücke; fireworks at the Spandau Citadel. w w w.wheretr w w w.wh ereaveler.c t r ave l e r. com o m 11

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WHERE NOW | OUTDOOR BERLIN

6 SPOTS TO CATCH SOME RAYS

LAKESIDE LOUNGING Sure, the ocean is a few hours north of Berlin, but that doesn't stop locals from enjoying the beach on sunny days. Of the numerous lakes in the city, one of the most enduringly popular is Strandbad Wannsee, thanks to its wide shores of sand imported from the Baltic Sea. Wannseebadweg 25.

A DAY AT THE SPA Those who prefer their swimming to come with a touch of luxury should hit up Vabali. The exotic, Bali-inspired spa complex features no fewer than 11 saunas, plus several outdoor pools and plenty of chairs for lounging in the sun. As is typical for German saunas, nudity is allowed, robes encouraged, and swimsuits prohibited. Seydlitzstr. 6.

REACH THE BEACH Strandbar Mitte ("Beach Bar Mitte") is where beach and nightlife meet. Though there's technically no beach here – the bar sits on the banks of the Spree River – the views are so good that nobody minds. This bustling spot facing Museum Island is the best place to take in the summer sunset, cold drink in hand. Monbijoustr. 3.

HIT THE ROOF You wouldn't think the roof of a shopping mall parking lot could be a pleasant place to hang out, but Klunkerkranich proves otherwise. The hip and youthful rooftop bar/lounge/club with a sweeping view of Neukölln features a garden, splash pool, and ample space where concerts and parties last well into the night. KarlMarx-Str. 66, 5th floor.

POOL MEETS CITY For a dip in the middle of town, the Friedrichshain neighborhood offers two options: the Arena Badeschiff, an old industrial barge turned into a floating pool, and Haubentaucher, an outdoor pool in an industrial setting, offering great drinks, a loungy atmosphere, and yoga classes on Thursday mornings. www.haubentaucher. berlin.

Clockwise from top: Vabali Spa, Arena Badeschiff, Klunkerkranich, Mount Mitte at Beach Mitte.

OUTDOOR SPORTS With lots of waterways and open spaces, Berlin offers ample opportunities for outdoor excercise. The No.-1 spot for sports lovers is Tempelhofer Feld, formerly home to one of the city's airports (www.thf-berlin. de), whose 386 hectares (954 acres) of flatland feature runways and meadows perfect for skating, kite surfing, and windskating. To discover Berlin or Potsdam by water, book a tour with Kayak Berlin (www. kajakberlintours.de), which offers a sunset exploration of Kreuzberg and Neukölln. For the ultimate beach feel, play a few sets of volleyball at Beach Mitte (www. beachberlin.de), Europe's largest urban beach volleyball space, with 50 courts, a massive climbing structure to unleash your inner monkey, and a tropical lounge area. Who needs a beach vacation when you've got all this?

SPA: COURTESY OF VABALI; SPREE RIVER: COURTESY OF ARENA BADESCHIFF; ROOFTOP SUNSET: KLUNKERKRANICH; AERIAL OBSTACLE COURSE: COURTESY OF BEACH MITTE.

BASK AMID THE ART Curious about Berlin's famed artistic urban scene? Visit Holzmarkt in Friedrichshain, a multifaceted riverside location that houses various creative projects that contrast with its developed commercial surroundings. There's the famous Katerblau club, a restaurant, an urban gardening area, a theater, and the "pampa," a common outdoor space with bars and food stands. Holzmarktstr. 25.

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hile no specific person has been credited with in 1927 at Klosterstr. 15 in Spandau, still exists today and offers the discovery of ice cream, we know the frozen more than 40 flavors, including traditional Swiss chocolate, food's origins date back to 200 BC, when the old-fashioned caramel, and banana milk cream. A visit is best Chinese created a dish of rice mixed with milk combined with a leisurely stroll along the nearby Havel River. and chilled in snow. Over a thousand years later, Marco Polo Unique to Germany is Spaghettieis, invented by an Italian living in Mannheim in the 1960s, in which squiggles of vanilla ice returned to Italy from the Far East with a recipe that closely cream are topped with strawberry sauce and desiccated coconut resembles what we today call sherbet. But it was only in 1851, to resemble a plate of the long-noodled pasta. The when Baltimore dairy dealer Jacob Fussell hit upon an At most perfect place to indulge in a bowl and cool off between idea to utilize his milk surplus, that ice cream became a parlors, a scoop sightseeing stops is at Caffé e Gelato (www.caffe-ebig business. Today, the addictively delicious treat is of ice cream costs gelato.de) in the Potsdamer Platz Arkaden mall. much-loved around the world, particularly right here around €1, so make in Berlin, where varieties range from vegan to gelato it a daily affair and try as many flavors NEW CONE ON THE BLOCK to that distinctly German curiosity, Spaghettieis. as you can. Piedmontese gelateria Giorgio Lombardi CREAMY FLAVORS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE (Weinbergsweg 5) has expanded beyond its Italian The oldest and most iconic ice cream in Berlin would have to borders and opened a store in trendy Mitte. In addition to be Florida Eis (www.floridaeis.de), whose ads featuring a little natural flavors that rotate with the season, such as the refreshing girl holding a cone stacked with more than 20 scoops of ice pineapple and lime, the family-owned shop has semifreddo, cream are ubiquitous. The first Florida Eiscafé, founded way back freshly made tiramisu, and house specialty capricci, a waffle cone

COURTESY OF HOKEY POKEY

According to Annabelle Mallia, the tastiest way to cool down this summer is with two scoops of creamy decadence.

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SPAGHETTIEIS: COURTESY OF MICHAEL RADTKE ON FLICKR; ICE CREAM SANDWICHES: COURTESY OF ZWEI DICKE BÄREN; ICE CREAM CUP: COURTESY OF WOOP WOOP ICECREAM; GELATERIA: COURTESY OF GIORGIO LOMBARDI.

WHERE NOW | FROSTY CONFECTIONS

SPAGHETTIEIS: COURTESY OF MICHAEL RADTKE ON FLICKR; ICE CREAM SANDWICHES: COURTESY OF ZWEI DICKE BÄREN; ICE CREAM CUP: COURTESY OF WOOP WOOP ICECREAM; GELATERIA: COURTESY OF GIORGIO LOMBARDI.

Clockwise: Spaghettieis, ice cream sandwiches from Zwei Dicke Bären, Woop Woop cup of ice cream, Giorgio Lombardi. lined with chocolate, filled with a shot of espresso, and topped with gobs of whipped cream and nuts. Another newcomer that has already garnered a sizable following is Romoli La Gelateria (Schönhauser Allee 88), specializing in traditional Italian desserts and ice cream.

THE ALTERNATE SCOOP If you’re visiting any foodie events over the summer, such as Street Food Thursdays at Markthalle Neun and Bite Club in multicultural Kreuzberg, keep an eye peeled for the Zwei Dicke Bären (www.facebook.com/ZweiDickeBaeren) cart, whose team has been busy baking to bring you delights such as their lemon sugar cookie and blueberry and sour cream ice cream sandwiches. Or visit the Woop Woop IceCream (www. woopwoopicecream.de) truck, usually parked at Charlie’s Beach Bar near Checkpoint Charlie, which will freeze your choice of, say, funky peanut butter and raspberry using a blast of liquid nitrogen close to –200°C (–330°F), right before your eyes. And at Schöneberg's Mein Lieblingseis Frozen Yogurt Bar (Belzigerstr.

7), you can enjoy pure creaminess finished off with a choice of toppings, whilst you relax in a beach chair and the kids play in the soft sand under the shade of trees.

BEST OF THE REST

The ice cream co ne is said to have come ab out when a fair vendor ran out and joined force of cups not-so-busy wa s with the ffle maker next door, rolling up scoops of ice cream in thin layers of waffle.

The queue outside Vanille & Marille (Hagelberger Str. 1, www.vanille-marille.de) attests to the small chain's reputation. The all-natural ice cream and sorbets are made in the backyard of their original Kreuzberg shop, which supplies its other three locations in Schöneberg, Tempelhof, and Steglitz. For a fancy scoop of American-style ice cream, head to Eispatisserie Hokey Pokey (www.hokey-pokey. de) in Prenzlauer Berg. Pastry chef Niko Robert, who studied in Michelin-starred kitchens, now turns his skills to creating cooling concoctions. Try the rocky road with caramelized pecans, marshmallows, and chocolate.

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WHERE NOW | BERLIN STYLE

YOU’VE GOT

THE LOOK Berlin is fashionable every day of the year, but this month’s Fashion Week ups the ante. To get to the bottom of this city’s unique look, Hilda Hoy spoke to local designer Esther Perbandt.

As a Berlin designer, how would you define the city’s style? There is definitely an overall kind of Berlin style, which I would describe as strict, a bit rigid. The Berlin look is not soft, summery, or smiling. Perhaps this is caused by many years of war and the long period when Berlin was divided. But this is not a criticism. On the contrary, the city’s style has great potential for class and elegance in a very modern way. Do your designs fit the city’s look? My style suits strong personalities and many great places in this world. Berlin is definitely one of them.

What other local designers do you think best represent the Berlin style? To represent the city, we need to look at the amazing power and diversity of creativity sown here. The designers all pollinate each other, like thousands of bees flying from one flower to another. Just a few of the designers who represent the diverse mix of Berlin: Starstyling, Hien Le, Isabell de Hillerin, Augustin Teboul. What kind of clientele do your designs cater to? For quite a while, I’ve felt the desire to no longer distinguish between men and women when it comes to wardrobe, which is how my unisex collection came about. But that doesn’t mean the collection is not feminine. I never ignore sexiness. Unexpected tailoring in combination with interesting fabrics ensures a strong appearance. My designs are created for strong personalities, irrespective of gender. Can you tell us something about your new collection? My spring/summer 2015 collection, LIVE, is based on music, rock ‘n’ roll, and elegant simplicity. The styles are minimalistic, in gray, white, and black, and highlighted by attributes from uniforms. The variety of textures adds a special depth.

wice a year, designers, buyers, journalists, and enthusiastic fans congregate in droves for Berlin Fashion Week, taking place 7–10 July in the Mercedes-Benz runway tent at Brandenburg Gate and in venues citywide. From street-ready hipster looks to highfashion gowns, all styles have a home at the most celebrated fashion event of the year. And while Berlin may not have the sartorial reputation of Paris or Milan, it does have its own inimitable style. To get the nitty-gritty on the Berlin look, we talked to Esther Perbandt, a born-and-raised Berliner who’s been designing her eponymous fashion label since 2004.

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WHERE NOW | STYLE

DAIQUIRI Bag by Strenesse Mall of Berlin Leipziger Platz 12

Couture

SAKE BOMB

Sisley kimono trench Kurfürstendamm 12

COCKTAIL-PARTY

Wardrobe need some swizzle? Claudia Koksch’s favorite summer party accessories will have you standing out from the crowd.

POSTTEQUILA SUNRISE Sunglasses by MYKITA BIKINI BERLIN Budapester Str. 38 – 50

PINK LADY Hat by Benetton Tauentzienstr. 187

OLD FASHIONED Dress by Marc Cain Friedrichstr. 61

COSMOPOLITAN Bag by MCM Kurfürstendamm 186

BLUE HAWAII Shoe by Navyboot Friedrichstr. 81

FLIRTINI Dress by UNIQLO Tauentzienstr. 7 B/C

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SHOPPING

Back To Basics

ix larger-than-life plasticine pom-pom dolls greeted me in true Japanese fashion as I entered the UNIQLO store. The dolls may be a temporary exhibition, but what’s clear is that the Wilmersdorf outpost, which opened its doors about a year ago, is now firmly entrenched in the city's shopping scene. Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, the UNIQLO brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has since expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe, from Tokyo’s Harajuku district to New York’s Soho – and now Berlin, where its flagship store covers three illuminated floors. The brand's concept is simple: quality basics in a range of block

colors and stripes that make universal couple of hundred euros, will set you back pieces for women, men, and children. only €80. Helping to secure success was the The SPA model also allows UNIQLO to decision to establish what UNIQLO refers to make quick production adjustments based as a SPA model (Specialty store retailer of on the latest trends and customer feedback, Private label Apparel), which resulting in a product as "UNIQLO has expanded stylish as it is well-fitting. means that rather than outsourcing production To ensure consistency, a to trendy urban hubs steps – from design and team of skilled artisans around the globe." purchasing of materials to boasting years of production and sales – the brand handles experience in the Japanese textile industry the entire clothes-making process. This is deployed to factories worldwide to offer allows them to negotiate directly with technical instructions and guidance on suppliers, thus keeping costs – and, in turn, quality control – all the more reason to mix prices – down: T-shirts are sold from €5.90, up your individual style with some UNIQLO jeans from €39.90, and a luxurious cashmere basics. sweater, for which you'd normally drop a Tauentzienstr. 7B/C, www.uniqlo.com

ALL PHOTOS: COURTESY OF UNIQLO

Lured in by the buzz and bedazzling LED screens, Annabelle Mallia scoped out the styles at UNIQLO.

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Enchanting, Hand-Crafted Design

Since its inception at a Tel Aviv market stall in 1988, the Michal Negrin brand has earned international recognition. The designer’s handcrafted collections of jewelry, fashion, and home décor are created to suggest a whimsical fantasy world, with intricate designs varying from lace-like, black-and-white metal arrangements with touches of bright color, silk flowers, and Swarovski crystals to a softer vintage look characterized by powdery pastel shades, pearls, and hand-painted fabrics and laces. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. www.michalnegrin.com

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead. INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65. OPENINg HOuRS Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 6 September, 4 October, 25 October, 6 December, 20 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

Courtesy of MICHAL NeGrIN

TOuRIST INfORMATION VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Neues Kranzler Eck – Kurfürstendamm 22, Mon–Sat 9:30am–8pm. Brandenburg gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

ACCessorIes AIGNER the Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather-accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luggage, as well as gift items such as leather-encased cigarette lighters, corkscrews, keyrings, and backgammon boxes. Kurfürstendamm 50. t: 030.88683638. u uhlandstraße. B4

Coach Classic and instantly recognizable, the luxury brand specializes in leather accessories for both men and women, and is particularly famous for its bags, often inspired by vintage themes. Galeries Lafayette, friedrichstr. 76-78. www.coach.com. E3

Falke Flagship Store this legwear shop caters to both men and women with an array of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. they also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. t: 030.88553565. u uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger str. 12. t: 030.20647995. u Mohrenstraße. E3

Michal Negrin the Israeli designer has been creating a unique lifestyle look for 20 years, with an eye on fashion, jewelry, and home décor. Inspired by vintage themes with romantic and Victorian elements, Negrin's creations are made with swarovski crystals and luxe fabrics. www.michalnegrin.com. t: 030.20143466. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger str. 12. u Mohrenstraße. E3

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, including handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories, for the world’s most

ben|weide Flagship Store Mulackstr. 1 | 10119 Berlin Opening Hours: Mon – Sat 11am – 8pm www.benweide.com

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IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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MCM

MICHAEL KORS

BIKINI BERLIN

For Spring/Summer 2015, German Luxury leather purveyor MCM embarks on a new design adventure with the launch of its brand-new Bebe Boo line, boasting an exquisite, feminine design. The Bebe Boo backpacks are made of soft and luxurious leather and designed with German functionality and traditional craftsmanship.

Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030 81825760 www.michaelkors.com

Germany's first concept mall brings select labels, unique concept and pop-up stores, and a plethora of dining opportunities to the heart of West Berlin. Do not miss the extraordinary rooftop terrace with a view of the monkeys and flamingos in the zoo. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Budapester Str. 38-50. www.bikiniberlin.de

Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030 8811104 www.mcmworldwide.com 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I J U LY 2015

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Innerwear made of cool air.

Women‘s AIRism Tank Top 9,90 € AIRism also available for men and children.

UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE Tauentzienstr. 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin

Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 08.06.2015, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstr. 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

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Friedrichstrasse

BerlinFriedrichstraße

Gerry Weber

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

Ralph Fiennes

IS IN THE AIR

Star power comes to the West End

PLUS

Elvis at The O2, John Singer Sargent and the new Ivy

Our landmarks get ready for romance, from The Shard to the Royal Observatory

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Evelin Brandt Crines Design Mephisto

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Special Dining Issue

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SWEET CITY Dining the Big Apple Way

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Comptoir des Cotonniers

RESTAURANT WEEK 2015!

450+ things to do! Book online at

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KR AU SE N ST R .

Style Seductions

SC H Ü TZ EN ST R

These spring fashions are guaranteed to turn heads

COOL NEW POOL ENVIRONMENTS

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS

LEI PZI GER STR ASS E

Marc Cain

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Checkpoint Charlie

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Berlin: Friedrichstraße 158-164, Kurfürstendamm 213, LP12 Mall of Berlin

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COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M HALLHUBER Hollister HUGO BOSS

Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

BREE C&A CALZEDONIA CAMPUS Casano CHRIST CINQUE Claire´s Clarks Ecco Coco California Codello Cordon Berlin

MANKIND adidas Neo Airfield Almano Ledermanufaktur ARMANI JEANS Backlash Bershka BIJOU BRIGITTE BIMBA Y LOLA

Hunkemöller Intersport INTIMISSIMI Jack & Jones JD Sports KARL LAGERFELD Kingz Konplott LACOSTE LAURÈL Levi`s LIEBESKIND Liu Jo LLOYD Look 54 Mabba MANGO MARC CAIN MASSIMO DUTTI Mavi MAX & CO. Mephisto

MEXX Michal Negrin Muji NAVYBOOT Nike NOA NOA Oakley Odlo Olymp One green Elephant Osco PANDORA Passionata PATRIZIA PEPE Peek & Cloppenburg PENNYBLACK Pepe Jeans René Lezard Reno Replay Rich & Royal

Runners Point S & D sons and daughters Salamander Sarar Schiesser Schiesser Revival SCHMUCKRAUSCH Schuh Bode SHOE CITY Shoe Connect Shok Sidestep SILK & CASHMERE SNIPES Sportalm Kitzbühel SPORTSCHECK Street Shoes STRELLSON STRENESSE STYLE MODE Sunglass Hut

SWAROVSKI Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO Tom Tailor TOMMY HILFIGER Trigema Triumph TWIN-SET UN1DEUX2TROIS3 Undiz Vans VERO MODA WE-Fashion Wigglesteps WORMLAND ZARA ZERO ...and more.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM

A Suit Both Classy And Casual The perfect combination of business casual comes in the form of the "Suiddy," from men’s fashion label ben|weide. Taking inspiration from both a suit and a hoodie, the sartorial hybrid provides the mobility of a hoodie while maintaining a classy and unique look – all characteristics of a beloved, go-to jacket. The Berlin-based label uses only the highestquality material, woven and dyed in Germany before being sewn abroad under fair working conditions. Look for the signature red thread that adorns the inner lining of every piece. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. www.benweide.com

seasoned travelers. www.mcmworldwide.com. Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BEAUTY AND WELLNESS

LIEBESKIND Berlin

Aveda’s objective is to respect the environment, a mission reflected in the herbal products they use and in their commitment to the well-being of others. A cup of tea welcomes you before you retreat to the spa or hairdresser. www.aveda.de. Kurfürstendamm 26a. T: 030.88708790. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

High-quality leather accessories and shoes, from casual to classic, designed in Berlin. de.liebeskind-berlin.com. Neue Schönhauser Str. 8. T: 030.24781600. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Alexa Center, Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.27878090. S+U Alexanderplatz; F3; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. T: 030. 20620210. U Mohrenstraße. E3

AIRPORT SHOPPING COURTESY OF BEN|WEIDE

Heinemann Duty Free With locations in both terminals A and C at Tegel Airport and Terminal A at Schönefeld, Heinemann is the only name you need to know for duty-free shopping in Berlin. Before boarding your flight, look for irresistible deals on fine liquors and spirits, luxurious cosmetics and perfumes, gourmet chocolates and other treats, and gift items and souvenirs. www.heinemann-dutyfree.com. Off Map

Aveda Lifestyle Salon

Harry Lehmann The grandson of this perfume shop’s founder continues an 80-year-long family tradition, mixing perfume from a spectrum of 50 scents kept in glass jars and siphoned into smaller bottles upon request. www.parfum-individual.de. Kantstr. 106. T: 030.3243582. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. C4

CHILDREN Dolly Rocker Two fashion-designer moms hit upon the idea of transforming second-hand clothes and new

materials into colorful one-offs for kids. Browse toys, décor, booties, and the ever-popular trousers with adjustable legs that grow as the child does. Gärtnerstr. 25. T: 030.54719606. U Samariterstraße. H3

Finkid The philosophy of this Finnish brand is unrestricted freedom of movement and the pleasure of discovery, a principle supported through simple design and functionality. Characteristic of Finkid's style is the funny pointed-hat jacket with removable inner lining. www.finkid.de. Leonhardtstr. 24. T: 030.31016350. S Charlottenburg. A4

Lego Store Assembled Lego models surround the entirety of this flagship store. Hit the interactive play area, take a Lego-themed class, or select individual Lego bricks from a diverse range of colors and shapes at the pick-a-brick wall. www.lego.com. Tauentzienstr. 20. T: 030.21016222. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

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SHOPPING

Bright Eyes no summer accessory jazzes up an outfit quite like a pair of sunglasses. Hit these hip stores for your pick of chic shades.

Mykita Combining precision craftsmanship with new technologies, this Berlin designer label handassembles glasses in their Mitte manufactory, in what used to be a children's nursery (Kita). rosa-luxemburg-str. 6. www.mykita.com

Ic! Berlin these feather-light designer glasses are made to last, with a genius and screwless spring-hinge clip. Make a visit to their showroom to select your favorite pair, presented on vintage flight attendant trolleys.Max-Beer-str. 17. www.ic-berlin.de

Vintage Sunglasses this store stocks rare models worn by stars from the best designers of the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s, such as a pair of Cazal 968 donned by al pacino in Donnie Brasco or tom Cruise’s large metal ray Ban frames from Top Gun. rungestr. 18. www.vintage-sunglasses.de

Lunettes Selection from ‘80s “nerd” glasses to ‘50s horn-rimmed and cat-eye frames, the selection of eyewear on display here is also a lesson in fashion history. torstr. 172. www.lunettes-selection.de

Galeries Lafayette

founded in 1880 by Margarete steiff, this stuffed-animal company has developed into an international brand of quality cuddles. the bear steiff created for u.s. president theodore “teddy” roosevelt in 1902 is the origin of the term "teddy bear." www.steiff.de. kurfürstendamm 38–39. t: 030.88625006. u uhlandstraße. B4

ConCept stores

the Berlin branch of the exclusive parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. the three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. the food counter offers a wide range of french specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed french tea house Mariage frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. friedrichstr. 76–78. t: 030.209480. u französische straße. E3

Departmentstore Quartier 206

KaDeWe

this multi-brand store inside the Quartier 206 luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers. www.dsq206.com. friedrichstr. 71. t: 030.20946500. u französische straße. E3

Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any way, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2. t: 030.7845395. u Gneisenaustraße. E5

the biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. if you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the 6th floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. tauentzienstr. 21–24. t: 030.21210. u Wittenbergplatz. C4

Malls & arCaDes Alexa

DepartMent stores

Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. t: 030.269340121. s+u alexanderplatz. F3

Galeria Kaufhof

Bikini Berlin

the former east German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. alexanderplatz 9. t: 030.247430. s+u alexanderplatz. F3

opened in april 2014, Bikini Berlin is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. amid the mixture of public spaces and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of tiergarten and access to a

plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester str. 42-50. t: 030.55496425. s+u Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. shuttle bus from center on fri&sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–thu 10am–7pm, to 8pm fri and sat.www.designeroutletberlin.com. alter spandauer Weg 1. t: 033234.9040. take the regional train and get off at elstal. Off Map

Europa Center this shopping mall on the ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. tauentzienstr. 9–12. t: 030.26497940. u kurfürstendamm, u Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on leipziger platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. leipziger platz 12. u Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden this large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. its restaurants and bars also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-

Courtesy of Mykita

Steiff Galerie in Berlin

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arkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FAShion

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA at Alexanderplatz OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

0039 Italy The 0039 italy womenswear label stands for everything that makes the italian lifestyle so envied by the rest of the world: casual luxury and timeless style are the brand’s trademarks. Blouses are one of 0039 italy’s specialties, from airy, cottony ones in casual prints to 100% silk ones that embody classic elegance. Expect a wide range of colors, prints, and flattering cuts. www.0039italy-shop.com. Schlüterstr. 51. T: 030 88708483. S Savignyplatz. C4

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

Airfield Exclusive, extraordinary, personal. This Austrian brand sells what they call “fashion made with passion,” blurring the boundaries between sporty and classy outfits and harmoniously combining styles to create wearable garments for everyone, leaving lots of room for individual and personal interpretations. www.airfield.at. Mall of Berlin. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Armani Jeans Delve into the world of italian fashion house Giorgio Armani, with their stylish Armani jeans and denim clothing for men and women. Their first store in Berlin inside Mall of Berlin also carries the Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Armani Collezioni, and EA fashion lines. www.armani.com. Mall of Berlin. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3

www.alexacentre.com |

become a fan of ALEXA

Make it yours.

Basler

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schlossstrasse 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030. 88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

BCBGMAXAZRIA The global label makes everything from evening gowns to everyday apparel, all with a fine eye for what makes a woman look and feel good. www. bcbg.com. Schlüterstr. 39. T: 030.88624770. S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2 italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Burberry This well-known British luxury fashion house carries classic clothing and fashion accessories. its distinctive tartan pattern is famous worldwide, and the company is best known for its trench coat, deisgned by Thomas Burberry. www.burberry.com. Kurfürstendamm 183. T: 030.8854811. U Uhlandstraße. B/C4

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Boggi Milano

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SHOPPING Cinque

HUGO BOSS

Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

The German luxury fashion brand is synonimous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstr. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstr. E3

This Japanese-inspired European brand brings innovative fashion for women and men. The everlasting go-to brand creates high-quality garments that are affordable and trendy. www. onegreenelephant.com. Mall of Berlin. Leipziger Platz 12. T: 030.20216742. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Kaviar Gauche

Patrick Hellmann

Claudia Skoda She used to party with Bowie and Iggy Pop and transformed knitwear into high fashion. Skoda is one of the most famous Berlin designers and this beautiful new boutique houses her latest figurehugging ensembles. www.claudiaskoda.com. Mulackstr. 8. See website for more locations. T: 030.40041884. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Darklands Relocating to a new space every few seasons, Darklands is a nomadic, multi-branded men’s fashion store. It stocks clothing by leaders in German avant-garde design with a strong preference for the darker end of the color spectrum. It’s hard to find, so see website for instructions. www.darklandsberlin.com. Heidestr. 46–52, Building 7. S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Evelin Brandt Evelin Brandt offers an urban, feminine look with a skilful mix of elegance, casualness and extravagance. The label’s distinctive designs highlight a woman’s individuality and personal charisma. Whether in beautiful jackets, flowing dresses, or accessories, customers will be strikingly well dressed. www.evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr. 153a. T: 030.2044444. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

G-Star RAW For more than 20 years, Dutch label G-Star RAW has been producing urban clothing inspired by military apparel made with raw denim. On the Ku’damm since 2013, the G-Star Raw flagship store responds to the label’s philosophy, combining their original designs and materials with friendly expert service. www.g-star.com. Kurfürstendamm 16. T: 030.88001973. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Signature pieces fuse dynamic patchwork cuts and femininity, first realized in their classic Lamella bag. In the last few years, motivated by the success of their cocktail dresses, fashion designers Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Röhler also specialize in bridal wear. www.kaviargauche.com. Linienstr. 44. T: 030.28873562. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Lacoste Besides their classic polo shirt bedecked with that cute crocodile logo, this classic French sportswear label also creates classy, sport-chic fashion items and footwear for men, women and kids. Kurfürstendamm 213. T: 030.88676945. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 158–164. T: 030.20058886. U Französische Straße. E3; Leipziger Platz 12. T: 030.20614423. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mohrenstraße. E3

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2

One Green Elephant

Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Pennyblack The popular Italian brand dresses a woman for every hour of the day. The "black" label is for sophistication, the "grey" label for a more casual style, and the "pink" for romantic, special moments. www.pennyblack.com. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. T: 030.20644346. U Mohrenstraße. E3 B4

Sportalm Kitzbühel Sport meets fashion in a conglomeration of elegance and coolness. This Austrian brand specializes in clothes that enhance the sporty character of feminine elegance. www.sportalm.at. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. T: 030.30329261. S Potsdamer Platz. E3

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Wormland

NIVEA is well known in most corners of the globe, but few countries have the good fortune of having entire stores dedicated to the German beauty brand. At the Berlin location of NIVEA Haus, located near Brandenburg Gate, you can indulge in some pampering with facials, massages, and an all-encompassing "feel-good package." Although you can book an appointment by phone or online, walk-ins are also welcome. Unter den Linden 28. T: 030 20456160. www.nivea.de

FOOD & GOURMET Marheineke Markthalle One of key market halls over 100 years ago, Marheineke Markthalle continues to be a culinary highlight today. Meats, cheese, deli items, baked goods, fruit and vegetables, juices, and flowers – everything is of exquisite quality and much of it produced organically and regionally. Rounding off

COURTESY OF NIVEA HAUS

Luxe Relaxation

This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. Direct entrance from Voßstr. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3

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LUXURY

BRands AIGNER

www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030 88683668. U Uhlandstr. B4

UNTIL 19 AUGUST

BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030 88707688. U Uhlandstr. B4

BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195- 196. T: 030 88921730. U Uhlandstr. B4

BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030 20613890. U Französische str. E3

BOTTEGA VENETA www.bottegaveneta.com. Kurfürstendamm 59-60. T: 030 70550770. U adenauerplatz. B4

ENJOY EVEN MORE SAVINGS ON DESIGNER BRANDS * ENJOY AN EXTRA 10% OFF ON THE NEW COLLECTIONS

BUCHERER

DesignerOutletBerlin.com

www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030 2041049. U Kochstr. E4

Show this page at the information desk to save an extra 10%.

BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030 8857920. U Uhlandstr. B4

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169 – 170. T: 030 20615660. U stadtmitte. E3

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com. KadeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030 21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Client Client Outlet Outlet Ad Ad Type Type Publication Publication Size Size

ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030 88923815. U Uhlandstr. B4

ETRO

-- McAG McAG -- BERLIN BERLIN -- PRESS PRESS -- WHERE WHERE MAG MAG -- 118X124mm 118X124mm

Type Type Area Area Bleed Bleed Date Date File File Name Name

-- n/a n/a -- 3mm 3mm -- 01–06–2015 01–06–2015

Initials Scale Effective DPI

-RS - RS - 100 - >300 >300

GL0916_0007_SS15_TOURI ne_118x124_A W GL0916_0007_SS15_TOURISSM_BERLI M_BERLIN N_SUMMER_SUMMER-SSALEALE-AAD_WhereMagazi D_WhereMagazi ne_118x124_A W

www.etro.com. Quartier 206 departmentstore. Friedrichstraße 71. T: 030 20946120. U Französische str. E3

LONGCHAMP www.longchamp.com. Kurfürstendamm 42. T: 030 88712810. U Uhlandstr. B4

MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler str. 38. T: 030 28493793. s Hackescher Markt. F2

ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010. U adenauerplatz. B4

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

PAL ZILERI www.palzileri.com. Kurfürstendamm 175 – 176. T: 030 88910700. U adenauerplatz. B4

WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 8826878. U adenauerplatz. B4

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SHOPPING the offerings are crafts and regular art exhibitions. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15. T: 030 61286146. U Gneisenaustr. E5

JEWELRY & WATCHES

Markthalle Neun

Travel back in time with a vintage collier, a retro bracelet, or a pair of earrings from the roaring '20s. A true connoisseur's collection of luxury jewelry. www. antique-jewellery.de. Linienstr. 44. T: 030.20689155. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Niessing

Antique & Vintage Jewellery

Built in 1891 and one of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, Markthalle IX has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market every Friday and Saturday from 10am-6pm. See website for more events, like the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42–43. T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Bucherer

MEISSEN

Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain many antique shops. manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for their range of tableware, Juwelier LorenZ jewelry, artwork, and figurines; all A family business since 1874, one of identified by the signature crossed Berlin's most prestigious watchmakers and swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden jewelers showcases Rolex, Cartier, Raymond Weil, 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße. and Tudor. www.juwelier-lorenz.de. Rheinstr. 59. T: E3; Kurfürstendamm 21. T: 030.88625085. 030.8512020. U Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz. Off Map U Kurfürstendamm. B3

Juweliere Leicht

Pylones These household products are created to add a fun and colorful spark to our daily lives, with zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225. See website for more locations. T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches. Also visit their Rolex boutique on the Ku’damm. www.wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3

With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www. bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 176-179. Stroll the length of T: 030.2041049. U Französische Suarezstraße and hunt Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. for treasure amongst its T: 030.8804030. U Uhlandstraße. B4

HOME DÉCOR

Each piece of Niessing jewelry tells a story about the jewelry house, in business since 1873, and comes with a personal touch from its creator. Lively pieces in gold, platinum, or stainless steel. www.niessingberlin.de. Stilwerk/Kantstr. 17. T: 030. 31809075. S Savignyplatz. B4

This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Bulgari. Utopia, Noor, and Meissen. Check out Leicht’s marvelous creations, manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

SHOES Budapester Schuhe It is said that no wardrobe should be without a pair of Budapester shoes. The high-quality shoes with their unique features, such as the low heel, wingtips, and Lyra perforations, are an absolute classic. Many other high-end brands available. www.budapester.eu. Kurfürstendamm 43. T: 030.88624206. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Buffalo Boots One of the most famous shoe brands in Europe carries pumps, a variety of boots, evening shoes, and handbags. The Berlin stores also offer the latest trends in men’s shoes. www.buffalo-shop.de. Kantstr. 31. See website for more locations. T: 030.3135998. S Savignyplatz. B4

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE

SHOES US

CLOTHES Euro

WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

XS S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42

MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

Escada,, Friedrichstr. 176

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Matthew, Sam, Jake & Flo LONDON, AUTUMN 2015

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SIGHTSEEING

Pedal Power

good sign of whether cycling has taken off in a city is the variety of people who do it. In Berlin, it’s everyone: businessmen in suits, older ladies in elegant fashions, and young moms with a bike seat on the back or trailer in tow. Cycling here is well and truly ingrained in the culture. Although you can get around perfectly well on the city’s efficient public transport system, cycling in Berlin, particularly on a warm summer’s day, is a breeze. The German capital is almost completely flat and has more than 600k (373mi) of bike paths. Cyclists account for approximately 15 percent of total traffic, meaning drivers are very attuned to watching for bikes. What’s more, acquiring a bike is easy, with

numerous rental stations across the city and reasonable prices, starting at €8 per day. Best of all is how much you can discover on two wheels, either on your own or as part of a guided bike tour with companies such as Fat Tire Bike Tours (www. fattirebiketours.com) or Berlin on Bike (www. berlinonbike.de). Explore the city sights, enjoy a pleasant ride through Tiergarten park, follow the canals through multicultural Kreuzberg, or take a ride southwest to the city’s scenic lakes

before continuing on to the ornate palaces of Potsdam. One of the most interesting and historical rides lies on the Berlin Wall Trail, which leads you along the course of the city’s former divide; VisitBerlin (www. visitberlin.de) has all the details you’ll need for navigating. And if you’re too exhausted to pedal back home after a long day of sightseeing, you need only buy an extra Fahrrad ticket for your two-wheeled companion to accompany you on the S- or U-Bahn.

courtesy of fat tire Bike tours

When in Berlin, Annabelle Mallia does as the Berliners do and jumps on a bike.

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MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (from 10am Nov–Feb). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sun 9am–8pm (until 7pm in winter). €7/4. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (until 5pm in winter). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

PHOTO © THINKSTOCK

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals due to its curvy shape, the building that is now home to the House of the Cultures of the World was originally built as a congress hall in 1956 but quickly became a symbol of Western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm, and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Daily 10am–7pm. Prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its former splendor and showing the Ku’damm before the bombs. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–6pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue MUST SEE Before the war, this Moorish-Byzantinestyle synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grâce in 1943. The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under-6s free. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr. 28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E2

Lights, camera, Berlin! A city with as much history as Berlin makes the perfect backdrop for memorable movies. From classics to recent Hollywood blockbusters, these must-see German and English films – from oldest to newest – all star the German capital.

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz

BERLIN: SYMPHONY OF A GREAT CITY (1927) This black-and-white beauty of a silent film depicts a day in the life of a bygone Berlin – a must-see for history fans.

CABARET (1972)

In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–7:30pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Oscar-winning classic starring Liza Minnelli, depicting the famous era of swinging 1930s Berlin as the Nazis were rising to power, was filmed in both the capital and southern Germany.

Philharmonie

This gloomily beautiful love story by German heavyweight director Wim Wenders is like an ode to West Berlin. One iconic scene features the main character atop the Siegessäule column in Tiergarten.

MUST SEE The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours offered daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbertvon-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three

WINGS OF DESIRE (1987)

RUN LOLA RUN (1998) This runaway (pun intended) international success takes its viewers on a heart-thumping sprint all over town. One key location: the red-bricked Oberbaum Bridge.

THE BOURNE SUPREMACY (2004) Trained assassin Jason Bourne is chased all over the city in this thriller. Look for major cameos by the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn bridge and Alexanderplatz.

THE LIVES OF OTHERS (2006) This Oscar winner does a stellar job illustrating life in East Berlin, with scenes shot in the former Stasi headquarters in Lichtenberg and Mitte's Volksbühne theater.

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SIGHTSEEING slices, it includes the sony building with its central plaza; Daimler city, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim center building. s+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE in the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist christo, and renovated by Lord norman Foster. climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website. Audio tours available. www. bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. The terrace offers great vistas. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (until 7 on weekends). Winter 10am–5pm (until 5:30pm on weekends). €3/2. Großer stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HisTORic siTEs Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–7pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center

main gateway between East and West. shortly after the Wall went up, Us and soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U kochstraße, U stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery

While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their About 44% of Berlin is work, creating what is now known as green space, either the East side Gallery. Mühlenstr. s+U woods or water. Warschauer straße, s Ostbahnhof. G4

MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall, then have all your questions answered at the information center, which offers details on the Wall’s history and politics. Documents, photographs, and original radio broadcasts from both East and West document one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Tue–sun 9:30am–7pm (until 6pm nov–Mar). Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer str. 111. T: 030.467986666. U Bernauer straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the cold War, checkpoint charlie was the

Gleis 17 Between 1941 and 1945, 50,000 Berlin Jews were packed into the freight and cattle cars of 186 trains leaving from Track 17 of Grunewald station, destined for the concentration camps and ghettos of Auschwitz, Theresienstadt, Riga, and Lodz. The track is no longer in use, but a plaque there commemorates the tragic events. The small square in front of the s-Bahn station also features sculptures and installations dedicated to the deportees. s Grunewald. Off Map

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the shoah is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. cora-Berliner straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. karl-Marx-Allee. U Weberwiese, strausberger Platz. F3/G3

KPM Berlin

Sometimes you just need a break from hectic city life to recharge in the serenity of nature. Right outside of Berlin, in the state of Brandenburg, numerous lakes sit just waiting to be explored. Potsdam's Griebnitzsee, which lies where the border between East Germany and West Berlin once ran, is easily accessible by S-Bahn (S Griebnitzsee), while Heiliger See, surrounded by beautiful palaces and Hohenzollern residences, is a little more complicated to reach, as it requires a hop on Tram 93 to Ludwich-RichterStraße from the Potsdam S-Bahn station. If you’re up for a longer drive to the north of Brandenburg, you’ll be rewarded with Großer Stechlinsee, one of the deepest and clearest lakes in the state, with water clean enough for drinking.

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately run exhibit explores the crafty inventions used by East Germans to escape East Germany, including Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot-air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts. Mon–sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50.

PHOTO © THinksTOck

Lake-Hopping in Brandenburg

Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today known as kPM Berlin, the company still makes exquisite, worldrenowned tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, enjoy the café, and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com. Wegelystr. 1. T: 030.390090. s Tiergarten. C3

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SIGHTSEEING www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45. T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Built in 1936 by prisoners as a model concentration camp, Sachsenhausen saw mainly political prisoners in its first years, while Jews, gypsies, homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” arrived a few years later. The iron gate bears the infamous “Arbeit macht frei” sign, and the barracks host exhibitions about extermination methods, the daily life of prisoners, and the medical experiments performed on them. Daily 8:30am–6pm (until 4:30pm mid-Oct–mid-March). Museums and exhibitions closed Mondays. Free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm. €5/2.50. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A preserved segment of the Berlin Wall runs along exhibition grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße, S+U Potsdamer Platz. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Open Tue–Fri 9am–7pm, until 6pm on Sat and Sun. € free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

May The Force Be With You Fans of Yoda, Princess Leia, and Luke Skywalker will be blown away by the grandfinale display at Madame Tussauds Berlin (p. 38). Reopening after a multi-millioneuro expansion, the wax museum now features a Star Wars experience where fans can meet some of the saga's most popular characters. Eleven heroes and villains from Star Wars Episodes I-VI, created in close collaboration with Disney and Lucasfilm, have been set in authentic scenes inspired by the films, with plenty of special effects to bring it all to life. Visit them and more than 100 other wax figures, from sports heroes to megastars and world politicians. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. T: 0180 6545800.

KIDS AND FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (until 5pm on winter weekdays. Closed 24 Dec). €20/16 (discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by an adult. Combined tickets with Madame Tussauds, Sea Life, and Legoland available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6pm. Zoo or

The Legoland Discovery Center on Potsdamer Platz (p. 38) will keep kids entertained for hours.

aquarium: €13/6.50, under-5s free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquariumberlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de. Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org. KöniginLuise-Str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100. S Botanischer Garten. Off Map

Children’s Museum Labyrinth One of Berlin’s two children’s museums, the venues offers two floors of activity stations on the theme of construction. Pleasant outdoor area for the warmer days. Open Mo-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 1–6pm, Sun 11–6pm. €4.50 for all over-3s (3.50 on Fridays). www.labyrinth-kindermuseum.de. Osloer Str. 12. T: 030.800931150. U Osloer Straße then tram. Off Map

Children’s Museum MachMit MUST SEE The hands-on children’s museum offers a climbing structure, a maze, a soap-making workshop, a cinema, and lots of activities to encourage discovery through playing. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5.50 for all over-3s.

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SIGHTSEEING

Berliners jokingly refer to the building for the Haus der Kulturen der Welt (House of World Cultures) as the "pregnant oyster."

Computer Game Museum over 300 items, including rare originals, walk visitors through the development of computer games, from the 1959 brown box to the Playstation and beyond. Visitors can test most of the games. Wed–Mon 10am–8pm. €8/5. www. computerspielemuseum.de. karl-Marx-allee 93a. t: 030.60988577. u Weberwiese. G3

Currywurst Museum learn about berlin’s most famous street food, currywurst, at this small but entertaining museum. delve into the dish's history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. schützenstr. 70. t: 030.88718647. u kochstraße, u stadtmitte. E4

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE at the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 berlin airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. a hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–fri 9am–5:30pm, sat–sun 10am–6pm. €6/3.50. www.sdtb.de. trebbiner str. 9. t: 030.902540. u Möckernbrücke, u Gleisdreieck. E4

Legoland Discovery Center everything is built with the famous plastic bricks at this indoor lego wonderland. there are videos explaining how lego is made, a lego factory, a 4d cinema with tactile effects, a duplo village for the very little ones, and a medieval world with knights and dragons. kids can build their own structures and try them out at the test center. daily 10am– 6pm (last admission 5pm) except 24 dec. €16 (from €8 if you book online, under-3s free). Combined tickets with Madame tussauds, sea life, and berlin dungeon. www.legolanddiscoverycentre. de. Potsdamer str. 4. t: 01806.66690110. s+u Potsdamer Platz. D3

Madame Tussauds

Have your picture taken with angela Merkel, albert einstein, John f. kennedy, one direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. and, yes, there's even a wax adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. the legendary wax museum also has a section explaining how the figures are made. daily 10am–7pm (until 9pm in aug, closed 24 dec). €21/16, discounts if you book online. Combined tickets The Nikolaikirche, for berlin dungeon, legoland, Berlin's oldest and sea life available. www. church, dates back madametussauds.com. unter den to 1230. linden 74. s+u brandenburger tor. E3

Domäne Dahlem City Farm a real farm in the berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. there’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a farmers’ market on saturday mornings. see website for special events. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. farm: free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. königin-luise-str. 49. t: 030.6663000. u dahlem dorf. Off Map

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and taxidermy and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. tue–fri 9:30–6pm, sat–sun 10am–6pm. €6/3.50. www. naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. invalidenstr. 43. t: 030.20938591. u naturkundemuseum. E2

Sea Life & AquaDom dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to

the aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. daily 10am–7pm. €17.50/12.50 (discounts when booking online). under-3s free. Combined tickets with Madame tussauds, berlin dungeon, and legoland also available. www.visitsealife.com. spandauer str. 3. s Hackescher Markt, s+u alexanderplatz. F3

Tempelhof Airport Park MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. this is where many berliners spend their weekends, bringing bbQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. tempelhofer damm. s tempelhof, u Platz der luftbrücke, u boddinstraße. Off Map

Tiergarten Park Created as hunting grounds for the electors of brandenburg, the park we know today was designed in the early 1800s by landscape architect Peter Joseph lenné and includes a pond with boat rentals and a café, as well as many pleasant trails to explore. the park also houses a zoo, a number of embassies, and the schloss bellevue, the residence of the President of Germany. s tiergarten, s bellevue. C3, D3

PotsdaM Biosphäre Potsdam this tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. daily Mon–fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-Halemannallee 99. t: 0331.550740. tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg in the early 1900s, the babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities

House of World Cultures: © tHinkstoCk; trabants: Courtesy of trabi safari

www.machmitmuseum.de. senefelderstr. 5/6. t: 030.74778200. s Prenzlauer allee. F1

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SIGHTSEEING were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

Potsdam and Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted “a place to be without cares.” The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloss placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. The park and its palaces have been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1990. Daily 10am–6pm (until 5pm in winter). Closed Mon. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berlinerunterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.

City Segway Tours Discover the city on board a Segway human transporter. Full Segway training provided. €67. www.citysegwaytours.com. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24047991. S+U Alexanderplatz.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Fat Tire Bike Tours

RIVER TRIPS

Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. Times vary seasonally. Call ahead in winter. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com. Panoramastr. 1a.T: 030.24047991.

Exclusiv Yachtcharter

Insider Tours

This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusivyachtcharter.de. T: 030.43666836.

Reederei Riedel Fourteen ships take visitors on 1-, 1.5-, and 3-hour cruises of the city’s canals and rivers. www.reederei-riedel.de. T: 030.67961470.

The popular tour company offers nine different options, including Jewish Berlin, a pub crawl, Third Reich, Cold War, and a day trip to Dresden. No pre-booking required, simply show up at their meeting points (U Zoologischer Garten or S Hackescher Markt). €12/10. www.insidertour.com. T: 030.6923149.

OnTour-Berlin This company offers guided tours with expert guides. Walks, including ones through the city center and the more historically important districts of Berlin and Potsdam, concentrate on different themes, such as city history, literature, cemeteries, and criminal history. www.ontourberlin.de. T: 030.67515046.

Original Berlin Walks Offering eight themed walking tours in summer and four in the winter. Themes include the Third Reich, Jewish life in Berlin, Potsdam, the Cold War, gay Berlin, and Christmas markets (in December). No advance booking required, just show up at the meeting point shortly before the tour begins. www.berlinwalks.de. Neue Bahnhofstr. 9-10. T: 030.3019194.

rent-a-guide Explore Berlin with a booking platform that specializes in tailor-made sightseeing tours and activities. Cooperating with more than 150 tour guides, the company offers just about any theme imaginable, from social culinary tours to private museum tours including a chauffeur. T: 0234.9155632. www.rent-a-guide.com

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. Drivers must know how to drive a manual transmission. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region, a Wannsee cruise, and individual charter options. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

TOURS AND GUIDED WALkS Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground

History On Wheels Take a joyride back to the Berlin Wall era in an authentic Trabant, once the only vehicle available to the majority of East German citizens. The Trabi Safari crew lets you drive one of the iconic cars made of plastic and recycled materials, as they relay information over the radio about the places significant to the recent history of Berlin. Three themed tours, ranging from one to two hours, give unique insights into the historical areas of Berlin, with routes going through the “classic West,” the “wild East,” and along the former Berlin Wall Trail. Zimmerstr. 97. www.trabi-safari.de www.wheretraveler.com 39

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Gardens Of Expression Summer is the perfect time to take in the outdoor art that abounds in Berlin. Caroline Evans took a stroll to find the city’s best sculpture gardens.

culpture parks are a great way to stretch your legs while admiring three-dimensional creations, from classical to modern to surrealistic. One place to browse while sipping iced coffee is the 10,000sq.m (107,600sq.ft) park at Haus am Waldsee (p. 44) on Argentinische Allee. The garden wraps around a lake featuring water installations, which in turn is surrounded by sculptures such as an Esso-like sign by Daniel Pflumm, which he calls a “light object”; Thomas Rentmeister’s Depot, consisting of stacked refrigerators; Roman Maerz’s Beast Alerted I , a steel sculpture of a pig; and a constant influx of new displays. Fans of early-20th-century sculpture

should make a pilgrimage to view the classic modern works at the GeorgKolbe-Museum (p. 44), between S Olympiastadion and S Heerstraße stations. The building and grounds were designed and developed with a sense of harmony and strong unity to honor Kolbe’s wife, who died tragically in 1927. Green lawns and colorful flora provide a serene setting for the impressive art displays, which are ringed by stately pine trees. Kolbe’s expressive sculptures reflect the spirit of his time and range from the elegant Morning, a nude with arms outstretched to welcome the new day, to busts of political figures. Also well worth a look are the perimeter

“Kolbe’s expressive sculptures reflect the spirit of his time.“

grounds of the Neue Str Nationalgalerie (Potsdamer Str. 50), where a classic sculpture garden, designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, forms a frame for the exhibition halls inside. (Note that the gallery interior will remain closed for extensive renovation until 2019.) Don’t miss the Museum Berggruen (p. 45) in Charlottenburg, whose garden is named for art dealer and collector Heinz Berggruen’s wife, German stage and film actress Bettina Berggruen, and is accessible to the public during regular museum hours.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF HAUS AM WALDSEE. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: OUTSPAN BY TONY CRAGG; LINGAPHONE BY OLAV CHRISTOPHER JENSSEN; JAGDSCHUTZHOLZSTAPEL ZUR BEOBACHTUNG VON WILDERERN BY FRANCIS ZEISCHEGG; FLÜGELSÄULE BY KARL HARTUNG

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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MuseuMs Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures and vases, and a number of etruscan and Roman archeological finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (until 8pm Thu), sat–sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. u Friedrichstraße, s Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, models, objects, and projects illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 21 Sep: Dialogues: Photographs by Hélène Binet explores the black-and-white world of the renowned architecture photographer. Wed–Mon 10am– 5pm. €7/4, Wed–Fri €6/3. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. u Nollendorfplatz. D4

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former east Germany at this hands-on museum. everyday objects, closets filled with GDR fashion, and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate and explain Communist habits, such as collectively pottytraining babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–sun 10am–8pm, sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. Karl-Liebknecht-str. 1 (in front of the Berliner Dom). T: 030.847123731. s Hackescher Markt, u Alexanderplatz. E3

neighborhood at this small museum housed in a typical red-brick building. Wed–sun noon–6pm. www.kreuzbergmuseum.de. Adalbertstr. 95a. T: 030.50585233. u Kottbusser Tor. F4

The Gay Museum One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. Mon, Wed–Fri, sun 2–6pm, sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. u Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel is shaped as a deconstructed star of David. Walk through millennia of German Jewish history and discover the alternating glories and persecutions of this community. To 13 Sep: Gehorsam: An Exhibition of the Works by Saskia Boddeke and Peter Greenaway. Multimedia art and films of the two artists. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. u Hallesches Tor, u Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war, which she experienced directly after losing both her son and grandson in battle. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3.

www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. u uhlandstraße. C4

Kunstgewerbemuseum Known in english as the Museum of Decorative Arts, the institution’s building reopened at the Kulturforum in 2014 after years of renovations. Germany’s first museum of its kind exhibits some of the most famous and outstanding european crafts from the early Middle Ages to the present, including masterpieces of medieval goldsmithing. To 4 Oct: Clay Worlds features ceramic work from the Renaissance to the present. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, sat–sun 11am–6pm. www.smb. museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. s+u Potsdamer Platz. D3

Kupferstichkabinett With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in english as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 20 Sep: We Come From Dogs. This year’s summer exhibition focuses on the relationship between human and canine with a varied selection of paintings and artworks. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, sat–sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. s+u Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. Tue–sun 10am–6pm. €5/3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history. Medieval body armor, paintings, books, dishes, machines, and more illustrate a timeline that extends from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 20 Sep: Layers of Time takes a look at the changes and influence of the Berlin Zeughaus throughout history. To 25 Oct: 1945–Defeat. Liberation. New Beginning exposes the efforts of various european nations made to rebuilding and recovering from WWII. To 1 Dec: Homosexuality_ies. The past 150 years of queer history in Germany. Joint exhibition with The Gay Museum. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. s+u Friedrichstraße. E3

Ephraim-Palais

ALL PHOTOS COUrTeSy Of HAUS Am WALDSee. CLOCkWISe frOm LefT: OUTSPAN by TONy CrAGG; LINGAPHONe by OLAv CHrISTOPHer JeNSSeN; JAGDSCHUTzHOLzSTAPeL zUr beObACHTUNG vON WILDererN by frANCIS zeISCHeGG; fLüGeLSäULe by kArL HArTUNG

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM

Temporary exhibitions on local cultural history fill this great Baroque building. Demolished in 1935, the Palais was rebuilt in 1983 using its original façade, which had been stored in a warehouse for almost 50 years. €7/5 (under 18s free, first Wed of month free). www.stadtmuseum.de. Poststr. 16. T: 030.24002162. u Alexanderplatz. F3

Ethnology Museum 500,000 objects from pre-industrial societies and a fabulous collection of Inca jewelry. Costumes, toys, tools, and huts are among the items shown. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, sat–sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. u Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum Kreuzberg enthusiasts can learn more about the history and radical legacy of the legendary

Evolutionary Exhibition Swing your way over to Haus der Kulturen der Welt on John-Foster-Dulles-Allee and you’ll be grinning like a chimp in no time. Through a mix of documents and visual materials, the exhibition Ape Culture presents a humorous view of the relationship between we humans and our primate relatives. Resources from natural sciences and popular culture examine how perception of our close relatives has changed radically in recent decades. The collective works by artists and researchers offer a thoughtprovoking look at the notions of social order and how civilization has evolved. Until 6 July. www.hkw.de

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES (under-18s free, free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5. T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

along the Silk Route. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Martin-Gropius-Bau

Museum of Communication

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and

photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as a series of German cities depicted between the windows and mosaics of allegorical figures. To 8 Aug: Tino Sehgal explores the work of the Berlin-based BritishGerman artist. To 23 Aug: Fassbinder – NOW provides a new impetus to engage with one of Germany’s most significant directors. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary depending on exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Menschen Museum

An entertaining journey through the history of communication inside the neo-Baroque building that once housed Berlin’s post office museum. Robots welcome visitors and iPads make perfect tour guides through the most intriguing steps in the development of postal and telephone communication, all the way to the era of information technology. To 23 Aug: Dialogue With Time interactively explores our future in relation to time and aging. Tue 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16. T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, Stadtmitte. E3

Museum of Musical Instruments

built for the Prussian army’s officer corps. The diverse exhibitions are curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection, while the lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 2 Aug: Willy Maywald: Portraits, Fashion, Photoreports. Works from 1930-1960s by one of Paris’ most important photographers. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum of Things Showcases a varied selection of objects representing 20th-century design and everyday culture, from kitsch souvenirs to TV sets and teddy bears. Thu–Mon noon–7pm. €5/3. www.museumderdinge.de. Oranienstr. 25. T: 030.92106311. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

A fascinating collection of ancient and modern musical instruments, including bagpipes, harpsichords, and instruments once owned by celebrities. Check the website for the weekly demonstrations of the most impressive musical machines, such as a silent-film-era organ. Tue, Wed, Fri 9am–5pm, Thu 9am–8pm, Sat–Sun 10am–5pm. €6/3 (under 18s free). www.sim.spk-berlin.de. Tiergartenstr. 1. T: 030.254810. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Museum The Kennedys

The internationally popular touring exhibition Body Worlds showcased anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination process, which preserves body parts and reveals their inner structures. The permanent Berlin exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 whole-body preparations, focusing on specific organs and diseases. Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. €14/9. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Museum of Asian Art

Museum of Photography

This important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art

All types of photography, from the 19th century to the present, are on exhibit at this comprehensive museum, housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building

Neues Museum

When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Berlin’s favorite US president. This museum, a tribute to him and his family, features films, photographs, and even comic books that tell us about his visit to Berlin, his assassination, and his children. Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. €5/2.50. www.thekennedys.de. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. From September 2014 to all of 2019, the altar room will be closed for restoration works. To 18 Oct: Aatifi – News From Afghanistan. Artist Aatifi’s modified and aesthetically reduced calligraphy. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Design Feast From The Former East Overshadowed by now-famously-vintage furniture pieces from the 1950s and ‘60s, such as the Eames lounge chair, décor from the GDR years is finally getting some attention. Gallery Central Berlin exhibits select classics that distinguished the style of almost every home of then East Germany. Pieces include the Selmanagic chair from 1957 and the Senftenberger Ei, the latter named after the place of manufacture and its egg-like shape. Contemporaneous furniture from Great Britain, the former Czechoslovakia, Italy, and other countries is also on view for design lovers’ perusal. Strausberger Platz 3. www.centralberlin.de

The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to have ever existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about spying techniques, including cameras hidden inside watering cans and fake trees. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun noon– 6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Story of Berlin Almost 800 years of Berlin history are arranged into 23 rooms, each describing a different theme or era, while an atomic bunker allows visitors to

Courtesy of Gallery Central Berlin

Stasi Museum

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COURTESY OF GALLERY CENTRAL BERLIN

better understand the WWII air-raid experience. Daily 10am–8pm. €12/5. www.story-of-berlin.de. Kurfürstendamm 208. T: 030.88720100. U Uhlandstraße. B4

ART GALLERIES Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Akademie der Künste Pariser Platz The Pariser Platz branch of Berlin’s art academy houses an important exhibition space and an extensive archive. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4. www.adk.de. Pariser Platz 4. T: 030.200571000. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. German artists, such as the Romantics Caspar David Friedrich, Karl Friedrich Schinkel, and Carl Blechen, are well represented, while the second floor features French impressionists, including Monet, Degas, Renoir, and Cézanne. To 20 Sep: Impressionism–Expressionism: Turning Point in Art. The exhibition traces the similarities and differences between the two movements and examines their enduring popularity. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 26 Oct: Radically Modern, the first-ever comprehensive exhibition on Berlin’s architectural heritage and urban development. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie. de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 7 Sep: The Berlin Sculpture and Paintings Collections 70 Years After World War II commemorates the end of WWII and the loss of numerous works of art in the two fires that occurred in the Friedrichshain bunker. To 13 Sep: ONE GOD– Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile takes a closer look at Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from antiquity to the Middle Ages. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan-Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of art nouveau and art deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this often overlooked period. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3 www.wheretraveler.com 43

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof CL904 MUST SEE

Photographer Helmut Newton’s life ended abruptly on Sunset Boulevard in 2003, but his fashion portraits continue to attract hundreds of fans to Berlin’s Helmut Newton Foundation (p. 44). Right before his fatal car accident, Newton donated his complete works to his birthplace of Berlin, which then erected the museum in his honor. Until mid-November, his oeuvre is presented alongside the works of two of his most notable colleagues, Frank Horvat and Szymon Brodzyak. Horvat’s traditional photographic orchestration provides an interesting contrast to the surrealistic feel of Brodziak’s large black-and-white nude compositions. www.helmut-newton.com

Brücke Museum

new acquisitions of contemporary Chinese and intenational art. Daily 11am–6pm. Free. www.sammlung.daimler.com. Alte Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 030.25941420. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. This museum explores the history of the movement through the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, and many more. To 19 Jul: Otto Müller. Harmony and Grace. At the center of the exhibition stand nine color lithographs depicting Sinti and Roma people. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www.daliberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 7. T: 0700.3254237546 (toll number). U Potsdamer Platz. D3

C/O Berlin

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle

After being evicted from its previous location in Mitte, the C/O Berlin center for contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 16 Aug: Sebastiao Salgado: Genesis is a homage to the blue planet: archaic volcanic landscapes, Arctic ice masses, meandering river canyons, mountain chians enveloped in mist, and endless sand dunes. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin. org. Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Daimler Collection The renowned car corporation has a small but impressive collection of 20th-century art that can be viewed in the historic Haus Huth, the only building on Potsdamer Platz to escape WWII destruction. To 30 Aug: From a Poem to the Sunset. The first part of a double exhibition showcases the

Dalí Berlin

With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. To 16 Aug: Nezaket Ekici – Everything We Own Owns Us. Tue– Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to Berlin, the city in which he was born in 1920. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. The Museum of Photography occupies the two upper floors of the building. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmut-newton.de. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. To 10 Aug: Max Liebermann and Vincent

Frank Horvat, GivencHy Hat, 1958, Paris © and courtesy Frank Horvat

Helmut Newton: Always In Vogue

The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 16 Aug: And Away With the Minutes: Dieter Roth and Music shows Roth’s music-related art projects for the first time. To mid-Aug: Official Welcome takes seven artists concerned with the exploration of a specific medium, from photography to performance and assemblage. To 23 Aug: Drawing Double Reversal. First exhibition to focus on the graphic oeuvre of Elaine Sturtevant. To 31 Aug: A-Z. The Marzona Collection. A celebration of the conceptual art of the ‘60s and ‘70s. To 6 Sep: Moby Dick. Installations by Michael Beutler, occupying and transforming spaces through cultural intervention. To 27 Sep: Black Mountain: An Interdisciplinary Experiment explores the legendary American arts college, which existed 1933-1957 near Asheville, North Carolina. To 11 Oct: Two by Two. The first joint exhibition of New York-based post-Abstract Expressionists Mary Heilmann and David Reed. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

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Van Gogh. The exhibition draws astonishing parallels between the work the two artists produced in the Netherlands between 1882 and 1885. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities,” hundreds of mysterious and sometimes eerie objects. To 30 Aug: Queensize: Female Artists From the Olbricht Collection. Some 150 works from close to 60 artists, including Helene Appel and Marlene Dumas. To 30 Aug: Falling Fictions: Objects From the Olbricht Collection. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Extended in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Set aside time to visit the outdoor sculpture garden. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi-bunker-turned-art-gallery. Collector Chistian Boros bought the historic building in 2003 to fill it with contemporary works by artists such as Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, and more. Open by appointment only (book online). €12/6. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20. T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

A world of exhibitions

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection, next to the Charlottenburg Palace and across from the Museum Berggruen, now houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dali, René Magritte, and Jean Dubuffet. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U SophieCharlotte-Platz. A3 Galerie Albrecht, from 3 Jul to 5 Sep: Michael Kenna, Gabor Kerekes, Thomas Lüttge: black and white photography from the ‘60s and ‘70s. Charlottenstr. 78. www.galeriesusannealbrecht. de. Galerie Art Cru Berlin, from 9 Jul to 15 Aug: Belhe Zaimoglu, Michael Behrens: Dünne Haut. Painting and photography. Oranienburger Str. 27. www.art-cru.de. Galerie Eigenheim, to 5 July: Enrico Freitag: Black Fields. Paintings and drawings; from 10 Jul to 2 Aug: Benedikt Braun: Bling Blong (Klasse 4b). Installation, object, photography, and performance. Linienstr. 130. www.galerie-eigenheim.de. Galerie Hirschmann, to 31 Jul: Tribal art from Papua New Guinea. Pfalzburgerstr. 80. www.galeriehirschmann.com. Lee Galerie Berlin, to 18 Jul: Myoung-Soo Ham. Drawings and paintings; from 24 Jul to 22 Aug: Sun-Ju Kim. Paintings. Brunnenstr. 172. www.leegalerieberlin.com.

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Commercial Galleries

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DINING

street-food mania invades Berlin

ot so very long ago, eating on the street was considered rather déclassé. But in the last couple of years, street food has gone mainstream and Berlin, taking a tip from cities like New York and London, now has a bevy of markets where gourmands can sample arrays of tasty international cuisines in a casual environment. The capital’s street-food scene was launched at Street Food Thursday inside Markthalle Neun (5–10pm, Eisenbahnstr. 42, www.markthalleneun.de), a weekly gourmet smorgasbord that’s still incredibly popular two years after its inception. Highlights – which you won’t find anywhere else – include the

delectable pulled-pork sandwiches from Big Stuff BBQ, freshly smoked salmon and ceviche from Glut & Späne, and pale ales made on site by the Heidenpeters microbrewery. Prefer to save your feasting for the weekend? Visit the Village Market (Revaler Str. 99, www.neueheimat.com) in Friedrichshain’s Neue Heimat, held every Sunday from noon to night (though some trucks sell out earlier). This sprawling, graffiti-covered brick complex, formerly a trainyard, is now home to diversions as varied as nightclubs, art spaces, and a climbing gym. The Village Market channels the youthful vibe of its surroundings, with drinks and music to

keep the fun going well into the night. Look forward to sticky, whiskey-glazed ribs and homemade pierogies, healthy smoothies, and ice cream sandwiches, as well as live music and a kids’ play area. The newest addition to the scene is Prenzlauer Berg’s Street Food auf Achse (Sredzkistr. 1, www.streetfoodaufachse. de). Also held on Sundays (11am-5pm until the end of October), the culinary newcomer is located in the Kulturbrauerei, a former brewery that is now home to concerts, club nights, and a movie theater. Get comfortable on one of the courtyard lounge chairs and feast on Chinese dim sum, Argentinian empanadas, and delicate French macarons.

All Photos Courtesy of Neue heimAt, © KAthA mAu

With a pulled-pork burger in one hand and an ice cream sandwich in the other, Hilda Hoy explored the booming street-food trend in Berlin.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT whERETRaVELER.cOM

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Letter/number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

Fine Dining 5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€–€€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco. com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

a.choice Part of the andel’s Hotel, a.choice brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106. T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. h2

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor

and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

First Floor named Best german Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45. T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, L, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3

Frühsammers Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a quiet, green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine.

€€€. Thu–Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammersrestaurant.de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030. 89738628. S Hohenzollerndamm. A5

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank has built himself a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Vegetarian options available. Warm, wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio for the warmer months. €€€. WedSun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-LinckeUfer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos On the 14th floor of the interContinental Hotel, Hugos offers great views of the city along with the Michelin-starred French-german cuisine of chef Thomas Kammeier. its reputation as one of Berlin’s go-to gourmet destinations is well earned. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapester Str. 2. S+U Zoologischer garten. C4

Les Solistes Refined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restaurant in the Waldorf Astoria widespread renown. Under the leadership of star chef Pierre gagnaire, the menu has clear French influences while daring to incorporate flavors from india, the Middle east, and further afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.waldorfastoriaberlin. com. Hardenbergstr. 28. T: 030.8140000. S+U Zoologischer garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

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DINING Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer

Tim Raue

The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. no detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, and the masterful hand of chef Hendrik Otto is evident in every taste. €€€€. Tue– sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. s+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

From his humble beginnings growing up in kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue– sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U kochstraße. E4

Pauly Saal

Managing to be both luxurious and minimalist at the same time, the Michelin-starred Vau is one of the highest caliber restaurants in the city. Headed by star chef kolja kleeberg, who has since expanded upon his fame with a TV cooking show, the Vau kitchen combines the best of French and German culinary traditions. €€€€. Mon–sat L&D. www.vau-berlin.de. Jägerstr. 54-55. T: 030.2029730. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Located in the gymnasium of a former Jewish girls’ school, Pauly saal’s chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was newly awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a special highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11-13. T: 030.33006070. s Oranienburger straße. E2

Reinstoff chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. How about some licorice algae or miso praline? €€€€. Tue–sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U naturkundemuseum, s nordbahnhof. E2

Vau

Daily D. www.andalucia.berlin. savignyplatz 2. T: 030.54710271. s savignyplatz. B4

Beef Grill Club by Hasir Steak House. carnivores will think they’ve died

and gone to heaven. Besides a thorough selection of fantastic steak cuts from around the world, prepared to your liking, The Beef Grill club also features such specialties as rack of lamb, tender veal, and canadian lobster, served up in a warm, elegant space at the recently opened Mall of Berlin. second location at kurfürstendamm 72. €€€. Daily L&D. www.beefgrillclub-hasir.de. Leipziger Platz 12. s+U Potsdamer Platz. T: 030.20644390. E3 B4

Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus

cHARLOTTEnBURGWiLMERsDORF

German/Austrian. classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, which is reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or just a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

AndaLucia

Enoiteca Il Calice

Spanish. This savignyplatz establishment is the

place to go for authentic spanish tapas and entrées, including paella, tortillas, and zarzuela, as well as tasty meat and fish grilled on hot lava stone. Well-stocked wine cellar and very helpful staff. €€.

Italian. A place to relax and enjoy a carefully selected glass of wine from their well-stocked shelves together with an innovative creation from the kitchen, like ravioli with eggplant, feta cheese, and swordfish. You can also take home a bottle of wine from their shop next door. €€€. Mon-sat L&D. www.enoiteca-il-calice.de. Walter-Benjamin-Platz 4. T: 030.3242308. U Adenauerplatz. B4

Goldhorn Beefclub Steakhouse. This meatlover's restaurant offers its guests prime cuts of meat from the finest cattle breeds around the world, including Black Angus, Galloway, and charolais, cooked on a first-class charcoal grill. iberian pork, organic poultry, and fresh fish and seafood, complemented by fine wines and creative cocktails, round-off the menu. Reservations required. €€. Daily L&D. www. goldhorn-beefclub.de. Mommsenstr. 12. T: 030.31806370. U Adenauerplatz. C4

NENI

What are all these fabulous berries flooding farmers’ markets this time of year? Erdbeeren are the sweet-tasting strawberries we all know and love. Heidelbeeren (blueberries), Himbeeren (raspberries), and Brombeeren (blackberries) are also a familiar sight. But lesser-known among the berry bunch are two other varieties you should watch for: Johannisbeeren (currants, found in red, black, or white), and plump Stachelbeeren (gooseberries). Sweet or sour, all of these fleshy little fruits make for the perfect summer snack – gobbled up quickly, baked into cakes, mixed with milk and sugar, or turned into juice and enjoyed with cold sparkling water (a mixture known as Schorle) on a hot day. You can even pick your own right off the bush at Berliner Beerengarten (www.berlinerbeerengarten.de), which has several locations across Berlin and its surroundings.

Paris Bar French. A long-time West Berlin institution,

Paris Bar has seen such celebrities as Madonna, sophia Loren, and Robert De niro as patrons over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French musts like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw many guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. s savignyplatz. C4

Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. Housed in the Hotel sofitel kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters,

PHOTO ©THinksTOck

Berry Surprised!

Mediterranean. From its location in a glass penthouse atop the 25Hours Hotel, casual-hip neni offers panoramic views and a fresh, creative fusion of Mediterannean, Middle Eastern, and north African culinary flavors. Many dishes on the diverse menu can be ordered in various sizes, with the goal of making sharing a part of the meal experience. €€. Daily L&D. www.25hours-hotels. com. Budapester str. 40. T: 030.120221200. s+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

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DINING wines and homemade tapas. €€. Daily L&D. www.barcelona.berlin. Friedrichstr. 211. T: 030.70228336. U Kochstraße. E3/4

Inventive Canal-Side Dining

Barcomi’s Café. American founder Cynthia Barcomi was one of the first to popularize American desserts in Berlin; think fudgy brownies, pecan pie, and New York cheesecake. All those and more have been on offer at her Kreuzberg café since 1994, as well as bagel sandwiches, quiches, and soup. Second location at Sophienstr. 21, Mitte. €. Daily B, L, D. www.barcomis.de. Bergmannstr. 21. T: 030.6948138. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

The leafy embankment along the Landwehrkanal is postcard-perfect, especially in the summer months, when the willow trees drape and sway along the water. The chic Spindler restaurant opened here only last December but already fits right in on this tony block. Head chef Nicolas Gemin came to Spindler after working in the Michelin-starred kitchen of Pauly Saal and now wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Prefer your water views by the light of day? Spindler also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. Take a seat in the restaurant's light-flooded interior or sunny yard and you’ll fall for the canal as if you were a native Berliner. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030 69598880. www.spindler-berlin.com designed for sharing, tempts as much as do the sumptuous main dishes and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Zillemarkt German. Zillemarkt is steeped in old-school Berlin charm. For a taste, try the “Berliner Allerlei” platter for two, with cabbage rolls, mushy peas, fried potatoes, and no less than five kinds of meat. €. Daily B, L, D. Bleibtreustr. 48a. T: 030.8817040. S Savignyplatz. B4

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. Religious influences aside, the thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

PHOTO © KLAUS LANGE

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Schneeweiss German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.

Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Restaurant Richard French/Swiss. The indistinct street belies the splendor of Richard’s interior, complete with carved wooden ceilings and stained-glass windows. The 19th-century architecture gets a modern boost with the décor, as does the menu, which combines Swiss and French influences with gourmet results. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.restaurant-richard.de. Köpenicker Str. 174. T: 030.49207242. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16. T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Transit

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities and journalists from the Tageszeitung newspaper upstairs. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Spindler & Klatt Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just Asian-European Fusion. Restaurant, a few euros, allows diners to cobble lounge, and club in one, Spindler & together a meal encompassing a wide Klatt makes full use of its prime river range of tastes and ingredients. location. In the summer, the waterside When in Mitte, try their second terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy Berlin has 15 location at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Michelin-starred the menu of pan-Asian dishes, from Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants. restaurants (20 stars fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. in total). dry-aged Irish steaks. Even in colder S Ostkreuz. Off Map months, the chic, post-industrial interior

Did you know?

KREUZBERG Amrit and Mirchi Indian/Singapore-style. Berlin’s most iconic Indian restaurant, Amrit boasts four locations across the city, each serving aromatic curries and an all-day happy hour with cocktails under €5. Its sister restaurant, Mirchi, serves Singapore-style cuisine in Kreuzberg (Oranienstr. 202) and Mitte (Oranienburger Str. 45). Check website for other Amrit locations. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.amrit.de. www.mirchi.de. Oranienstr. 202-203. T: 030.28045481/82. U Görlitzer Park. F4

Barcelona Spanish. Savor the best Spain has to offer, from original paella to fish and meat dishes grilled on lava stone, as well as a large selection of imported

– built in the 1800s as an army bakery – impresses. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030.319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

MITTE Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle Italian. The owners of this neighborhood favorite take pride in sourcing top-quality ingredients directly from their home country of Italy. Besides the homemade pastas, the creative, seasonal antipasti are a menu highlight. Their next-door mozzarella bar serves fresh mozzarella and burrata made by hand near Naples. €€. Daily D, closed Tue. www.alcontadino.eu. Auguststr. 36. T: 030.2819023. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

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DINING

A Chocolate Paradise The Ritter Sport bar is famous the world over, but here in Germany it comes in a zillion varieties, including honey and salted almonds, cookies and cream, and Jamaican rum. Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt, the company store located by Gendarmenmarkt, is like a three-storied amusement park designed for visitors to discover, create, and enjoy everything chocolate. At the workshop, kids and adults learn about the process of chocolate production, right down to the designing of the brand's iconic colorful and quadratic packaging. An interactive exhibition engages all five senses in the history of the cacao-based confection, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. When you've developed the ideal pairing, hit the café, where you can have your favorite bar melted in a cup for an otherworldly hot chocolate experience. Französische Str. 24. www.ritter-sport.de

Cookies Cream

Turkish. This quirky hole-in-the-wall, with the look

and feel of a fish market, serves fresh seafood the traditional Turkish way. Fried sardines and grilled catch-of-the-day fillets are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€. Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382. T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3

Barist Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends can all be found right in the heart of Mitte’s busiest neighborhood. Located in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station, this spot with a big terrace out front makes for a perfect meal break any time of day. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing

spot of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardtrestaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Café Einstein Stammhaus

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant – down a concrete back alley and up graffitied stairs. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to the mastery of celebrity chef Stephan "Cookie" Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Grand Rocka International. If you want to be in the center of the action, you can’t beat the location of Grand Rocka. The inside takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station and features a grand wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, while out front the terrace spills across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Did you know?

Berliner Weisse is a pale ale brewed only in the capital and usually served with a shot of syrup.

German/Austrian. The 1878 villa housing this Viennese-style coffee house has survived a storied history. Today, the establishment is back to its former grandeur and makes for a lovely spot for a meal or to while away the afternoon with coffee and a book. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeeinstein.com. Kurfürstenstr. 58. T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Chicago Williams BBQ American. A culinary ambassador for the American

BBQ tradition, Chicago Williams specializes in meat and more meat. Order a combo of sticky ribs, pulled pork, or jerk chicken, and sides like coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, or mashed potatoes. Meals come served on a plastic tray, but with meat this delicious, who needs plates? €€. Daily D. www.chicagowilliamsbbq.de. Hannoversche Str. 2. T: 030.28042422 U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Maximilians

Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved

destination of Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www. grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is much more than a

sightseeing destination. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. Located on the roof of the Reichstag building, the restaurant boasts splendid views in addition to the refined, modern German cuisine. Reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L & D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad, Flammkuchen pies, and a number of meat dishes. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. S Friedrichstraße, U Französische Straße. F2

Restauration 1840 German. Located directly under S Hackescher

Markt station, the elegant, old-timey restaurant has been lovingly decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden Twenties. Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace that bustles with action on warm days. The menu: classic German meets modern European. €€. Mon–Thu L&D, Fri–Sun B, L, D. www. berlin-1840.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Sra Bua Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s homegrown star chef Tim Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the highest caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue-Sat D. www.srabua-adlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

The Brooklyn American. Where’s the beef? Not in Brooklyn, but in this subterranean meat-lovers’ paradise specializing in steaks, American-style. Filet

COURTESY OF RITTER SPORT

Balikci Ergün

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mignon, porterhouse, chateaubriand, and steak tartare are all represented, plus a burger made from the finest rib eye. €€€. Daily L&D. www.thebrooklyn.de. Köpenicker Str. 92. T: 030.20215820. U Märkisches Museum, U Heinrich-Heine-Straße. F3

The Grand The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1812, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a cosmopolitan late-night scene. €€€. Tue–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. E4

PRENZLAUER BERG I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere at this expansive pizza hall is on the raucous side and the service is notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizzaloving crowds at bay. The generously sized thincrust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54. T: 030.66408710. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

The Bird American. The hefty burgers here have a real cult following, and many swear they’re the best in the city. The menu also includes steaks, chicken wings, and a mean club sandwich. Vegetarians will leave hungry. €. Daily L&D. www.thebirdinberlin.com. Am Falkplatz 5. T: 030.51053283. S+U Schönhauser Allee. F1

SCHÖNEBERG Café Aroma Italian. A long-standing neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing high-quality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The Sunday brunch buffet, served from 11am, is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5 Café. This tiny coffee shop regularly has a line snaking out the front door, and no wonder: The owner has won multiple European and worldwide barista championships. Some pastries are also on offer, but it’s the excellent coffee that draws the crowds. €. Mon–Sat B&L. www.doubleeye.de. Akazienstr. 22. T: 0179.4566960. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Double Eye

Berlin www.wheretraveler.com 51

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Ristorante // Enoiteca

Enjoy also our sunny patio and our special offers for a quick lunch stop! Walter-Benjamin-Platz 4 (only 2 minutes from Kurfürstendamm) open mon – sat from noon to 2 am reservations 030 324 23 08 · www.enoiteca-il-calice.de

RESTAURANT PARIS-MOSKAU ALT-MOABIT 141 • 10557 BERLIN Tel.: 030 394 20 81 restaurant@paris-moskau.de www.paris-moskau.de

TRADITION SINCE 1984

FINE DINING • SUNNY PATIO NOW OPEN! Find us on WHERE Map page 64, D/3

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ENTERTAINMENT

The sound of Japan itself Her heart pounding to the beat, Serene Tseng explores how the Yamato drummers give tempo to the rhythm of life.

Top: © HirosHi sEo; BoTTom: © masa ogaWa

ith beats so powerful they reverberate through the body like a second pulse, Yamato is more than just a group of musicians — it’s a drumming troupe that infuses its shows with music, dance, and intense emotions. The drummers perform exclusively with the classic taiko drum, combining traditional Japanese techniques with Yamato’s own modern aesthetics and energetic choreography. Their name alone lends a clue to their philosophy: Just as Japan was once known as Yamato, the troupe’s music provides a link between the ancient and the modern. The taiko drum has a storied history of its own, as well as a mythological origin in Japanese folklore, which likens it to the heartbeat of life. This is better understood through the words of Yamato’s artistic director,

Masa Ogawa: “The taiko beat is soothing, for it is the sound of Japan itself.” And indeed, the heart-thumping rhythms are wildly popular worldwide, so much so that Yamato already has numerous world tours and more than 2,500 performances under its belt since its founding in Japan’s Nara Prefecture 20 years ago. The drummers are so passionately dedicated to their craft that they rehearse for months at a time before embarking on their annual tours. This year, Yamato once again brings the sound and culture of Japan to a global audience with their new show, titled Baku On, which visits Berlin for six consecutive nights, from 14 to 19 July, at the Komische Oper. www.yamatodrummers.com www.komischeoper.de www.wheretraveler.com 53

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ENTERTAINMENT Ballet and Opera

ClaSSiCal COnCertS

Deutsche Oper

Berliner Dom

a 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. director and conductor donald runnicles puts together rich programs brimming with Verdi, rossini, and Mozart. 1, 4 Jul: La Traviata (Verdi). 2, 5 Jul: Faust (Gounod). 3 Jul: La Rondine (puccini). 21–25 Jul: Summer guest: Béjart Ballet lausanne. 28–31 Jul: Summer guest: Jesus Christ Superstar. www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35. t: 030.34384343. U deutsche Oper. B3

Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. am lustgarten. t: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Komische Oper

CineStar Larger than life: Amazing movie moments! ab 9.7.

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title Opera House Of the Year 2013. australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1 Jul: Rigoletto (Verdi). 2, 3 Jul: West Side Story (Bernstein). 4, 9 Jul: Giulio Cesare in Egitto (Händel). 7 Jul: Moses und Aron (Schönberg). 8 Jul: Gianni Schicchi|Herzog Blaubarts Burg (puccini/Bartók). 9, 12 Jul: Die Schöne Helena (Offenbach). 11 Jul: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 14-19 Jul: Yamato, the drummers of Japan. 21-26 Jul: Mummenschanz. www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. t: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company performs at various locations. 13, 14 Jul: Gala of the Staatlichen Ballettschule Berlin, Schiller theater. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. t: 030.34384140. U deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater

ab 23.7.

While its glamorous home venue on Unter den linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller theater. daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 1 Jul: Orfeo (Monteverdi). Schillerstr. 9/ Bismarckstr. 110. www.staatsoper-berlin.de t: 030.20354555. U deutsche Oper. B3

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie part of the philharmonie, this additional concert hall presents daily concerts of chamber music. every tuesday, it also features a free concert at lunch time. Currently on summer break. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. t: 030.254880. S+U potsdamer platz. D3

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Many of its students are already members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. t: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Konzerthaus this charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 2–4 Jul: the Konzerthausorchester Berlin, cond. Valchua, with alisa Weilerstein (cello), play debussy, prokofiev, Strauss, and ravel. 10–12 Jul: the Konzerthausorchester Berlin, cond. Meister, with Chen (violin), play dvorak. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. t: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie the iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon rattle, but also hosts other stellar ensembles and soloists. Free lunch concerts every tuesday at 1pm. See website for program. 1 Jul: Bobby Mc Ferrin and Chick Corea. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

ab 6.8.

Get ready for state-of-the-art entertainment! Berlin’s largest screen, luxurious leather chairs and stadium seating meet premium sound and picture quality: The greatest blockbusters and select shows in the undubbed English version await you daily at CineStar IMAX at Sony Center Info and tickets at cinestar.de

Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz IMAX® ist eine eingetragene Marke der IMAX Corporation

You’ve never seen storytelling quite like this. Artist Aljona Voynova has traveled the world recounting tales through animated sand paintings made with Volga River sand collected in her hometown. Last year, her combination of moving sand, light, and music attracted more than 4000 people to her Hamburg show. Now, the native Russian brings a new performance to Berlin, recounting eight centuries of the city’s history through her unique art form. Admiralspalast (p. 57) on 5, 12, and 26 July.

pHOtO © tHinKStOCK

Tales From The Sands Of Time

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

experience. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk Sinfonie Orchester Berlin

Odeon

Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. The orchestra performs in various locations, often including the Philharmonie and the Konzerthaus. Ticket hotline: 030.20298715. tickets@rsb-online.de

This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Waldbühne

Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale is situated near the Zoologischer Garten station and now

offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin. de. Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

ROCK, POP, JAZZ, WORLD A-Trane A small but popular jazz bar where emerging talent shows their musical skills to the world. Open daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm.

An outdoor arena for the biggest classical and rock concerts. 11 Jul: Disney in Concert. www.waldbuehne-berlin.de. Am Glockenturm. Tickets: 01806.570070. S Olympiastadion + bus. Off Map

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden***** Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden***** Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Hip, cutting-edge dance and performances from around the globe grace the stage of this city staple. www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, including classical concerts, jazz jam sessions, and contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Sasha Waltz’s own center for avant-garde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), and music is also a space for young performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, and Oranienburger Straße. E2

Tanzfabrik This dance-research and performance center puts together a rich program of contemporary acts. See website for program. www.tanzfabrik-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 68. T: 030.7865861. S+U Yorckstraße/Mehringdamm. E5

MOVIE THEATERS CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Most of the movies at this multiplex are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. Opt for IMAX for the ultimate cinematic www.wheretraveler.com 55

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ESTRELTAINMENT

ENTERTAINMENT

FANTASTIC LIVE-SHOWS

THE ABBA STORY

01. – 26.07. 2015

Give ‘Em All Your Lovin’ Take strong blues roots combined with punk and dance-rock, add humorous lyrics, a heavy dose of synthesizers, and long, biblical beards, and you get ZZ Top. The Texan trio’s highly entertaining performances go beyond the songs themselves to extend into a movie-like show projected on big screens, complete with full credit list at the end. Their sound today, an alchemy of instruments, disco pulses, and rap, is part of the reason they’re still around after nearly five decades. 2 July at Zitadelle Spandau. www.citadel-music-festival.de

KulturBrauerei

See website for program. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena

THE KING IS BACK! ”ELVIS - The Musical“ is a show experience of a very special kind, when the time is rotated back and Elvis‘ unforgettable music, hip swinging, sex appeal, voice and show are still here.

12.08. – 06.09.2015

The expansive music hall, formerly a bus depot, also boasts a cocktail lounge and a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree. www.arenaberlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flat-berlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13. T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Regulars come for the requent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin

M EN U & SH O W

nu an d Enjoy a 3-c ourse me me nt ain ert ent visit on e of our rt“ nce Co in ars “St . e.g , shows from

Euro per person

Enjoy a three-course dinner while the world’s top celebrity impersonators bring to life such legends as Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, and Buddy Holly. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed–Sat at 8:30pm, Sun at 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off map

TICKETS-HOTLINE: +49 (0)30 68 31 68 31 FROM 22,00 TO 51,50 EURO PLUS FEE WWW.STARS-IN-CONCERT.DE

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world tours and sports events. 5 Jul: Santana. 8 Jul: Mark Knopfler. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. S Ostbahnhof. G4

Quasimodo The historic jazz café boasts a program of diverse musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. Concerts are held in the cellar, but be sure to have a drink in the pleasant café upstairs. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36

The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene has hosted such anti-establishment legends as The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen more than once. Today, events range from wild to mild, with punk and hard-rock shows, flea markets, In the Hunger Games and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. movies, some scenes Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. for District Two were U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Did you know?

shot at Tempelhof Airport.

Havanna ESTREL FESTIVAL CENTER BERLIN

An early-1900s brewery complex that now houses various cultural and art venues. See website for program. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and reggaeton. See website for program. www.havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Tempodrom

This large concert building resembling a circus tent is now part of the city’s skyline. 4 Jul: Mixed Martial Arts. www.tempodrom. de. Möckernstr. 10. Tickets T: 0186.554111 (toll number). S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

UFA Fabrik More than 18,000 square meters of culture: festivals, conventions, multimedia events, and

COURTESY OF ZZ TOP

Submerge yourself in the party scene of the 70s with this much loved live show featuring hits such as “Waterloo“, “Money, Money, Money“, “Dancing Queen“, “Mamma Mia“ and many more.

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ENTERTAINMENT performances. Program on website. www.ufafabrik.de. Viktoriastr. 10–18. U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map

www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-DietrichPlatz 4. T: 01805.4444 (toll number). s+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U adenauerplatz. C4

TheaTer, CabareT & MUsiCals

Chamäleon Variete

Musicals and international performances. Designed by renzo Piano, the theater seats 1800 people. All month: Beyond the Horizon, musical (in German with english surtitles) on the fall of the Wall. shows daily except Monday; see website for exact times. www.stage-entertainment. de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. T: 01805.4444 (toll number). s+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Admiralspalast an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. Currently on summer break. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. s+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bar Jeder Vernunft a 1912 tent housing song and dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many of the shows are in German only. Call for info. Currently on summer break. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U spichernstraße. C4

Bimah, the Jewish Theater Most shows are in German, but there are frequent Yiddish song performances. see website for info. www.juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.2511096. s+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bluemax Theater The unmistakable blue Man Group has its own permanent theater and their show is an energetic combination of music, art, gestures, and comedy. The few spoken words are in english. All month: 8 shows a week; see website for exact times.

an old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: DUMMY lab, a successful performance that combines dance, music, and video art. sun at 6pm, sat 6 and 9pm, Tue–Fri 8pm. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. inside the hackeschen höfen, rosenthaler str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. s hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions, and variety shows at this 1920 theater. All month: The Wyld, a las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. shows daily except Monday. www.palast-berlin.eu. Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular comedy club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and presents a regular englishlanguage night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. T: 01806.999000969 (toll number). s+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne a popular West berlin theater in the ‘60 and ‘70s, this Ku’damm venue still hosts interesting productions, many with english surtitles. see

Theater am Potsdamer Platz

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U bundestag. D3

Volksbühne an experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U rosa-luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté Mirrors, wood, red velvet, and a starry sky define this sumptuous variety theater. Takes place every week from Tue–sun. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer str. 96. T: 030.588433. s+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

June 20 – September 20 Between Kanzleramt and Haus der Kulturen der Welt Bus 100: Platz der Republik // S-Bahn: Hbf, Brandenburger Tor Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de www.wheretraveler.com 57

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NIGHTLIFE

charlottenburg's nostalgic nightlife

n a city where each neighborhood caters to a different nightlife personality – from partyland Friedrichshain to alternative Kreuzberg, laid-back Schöneberg to hipster Mitte – it’s easy to forget about the existence of the after-dark scene around Savignyplatz, in Charlottenburg. Yet, this was one of former West Berlin’s most popular nightlife destinations, especially among intellectuals and students from the nearby Technische Universität. The area’s persona, however, has always been a mixed one, what with luxurious, late-1800s buildings housing elegant cafés and restaurants, in contrast with nearby Kantstraße and its cheap electronics outlets and sex shops. It may be hard to believe today, but up until the early 1990s,

the Platz also housed a few legal brothels, head to El Borriquito (Wielandstr. 6), which with prostitutes on street corners inviting has been serving Iberian cuisine for more clients upstairs. than 40 years and features walls crammed Savignyplatz’s reputation has vastly with memorabilia from the Spanish improved, and today Kantstraße is a varied countryside and lively guitar performances mix of designer furniture stores and Asian to entertain guests until early morning. restaurants, Hep cats should visit "Savignyplatz was one of representing Berlin’s A-Trane (p. 55), which pared-down version of a West Berlin's most popular boasts a program Chinatown. Many of the packed with local and nightlife destinations." nightlife staples of yore international jazz remain, the most famous being Schwarzes performances, or Quasimodo (p. 56), Café (p. 60), which provides an excellent where jazz and rock gigs resound from the example of bohemian Berlin around the cellar while you sip potent drinks on the clock (they only close for three hours on terrace. For a sophisticated night out, step Tuesday nights for cleaning). Another into Il Calice (Walter-Benjamin-Platz 4), a institution is Dicke Wirtin (p. 59), a German Venetian enoteca specializing in Italian Kneipe serving delicious beers along with wines and pairings geared toward real hearty meals. For flamenco and vino tinto, connoisseurs.

photoS © thinkStock.

Solveig Steinhardt strolled around Savignyplatz for a glimpse of West Berlin nightlife in the 1980s.

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NIGHTLIFE BEER Ankerklause A canal-side nautical tavern. Drinks come with beautiful views of boats passing by. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm) www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre The canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin A Charlottenburg institution, this old-fashioned Berliner Kneipe restaurant serves great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and comforting cuisine, seasonal specialties, and, of course, lots of beer. Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug The "beer garden in the Tiergarten" serves complementing German specialties to go with your brew, including a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options as well as 350 gaming machines. Open daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

CLUBS 40 Seconds A modern and trendy rooftop club frequented by international stars and urban jetsetters. R&B and soul on Fridays, house on Saturdays. Casual smart/elegant dress code. www.40seconds.de. Potsdamer Str. 58. T: 030.8906420. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

Adagio A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dance hall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorative-chic style. Open Fri & Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.2589890. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Amber Suite

Prince Charles

The perfect place for over-27s to socialize while dancing and drinking offers two dance floors (playing house, dance music, and black beats), three bar lounges, a buffet with barbecue in summer, and a pleasant terrace for chats under the stars. Open Fri from 7pm till late, Sat from 8pm. www.ambersuite.info. Mariendorfer Damm 1. T: 030.74070609. U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map

A stylish club set in an old swimming pool building. Tiled walls and concrete flooring are the main elements of its décor. Cocktail bar in the evening, wild dance club at night. Fri–Sun night. www.princecharlesberlin.com. Prinzenstr. 85F. U Moritzplatz. F4

Berghain/Panorama Bar The club of choice for techno lovers is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultra-selected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Dress code strictly casual. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed such celebrities as Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Open Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felixclubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3

Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting, with fabulous views from the roof of the Europa Center. Dress up. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. T: 030.26367875. U Zoologischer Garten, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Roses Kitsch is the word at this fun gay- and straightfriendly Kreuzberg bar. Cheap drinks. Daily from 9pm. Oranienstr. 187. T: 030.6156570. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Salon zur Wilden Renate

In an old residential building on the cooler side of Friedrichshain, Wilde Renate is hugely popular with young and wild Berliners. Antlers, grand pianos, and heavy curtains create the atmosphere, and the sound system is impeccable. Thu–Sat from midnight. www. renate.cc. Alt-Stralau 70. T: 030.25041426. S Treptower Park, The Green Door has been promoting S Ostkreuz. H4

"the power of positive drinking" for 15 years. www.greendoor.de

Gretchen The Kreuzberg club is known for its international crowd and eclectic DJs, who spin funk, hip hop, drum & bass, and electronica. Occasional concerts. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club. de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. T: 030.25922702. U Mehringdamm, U Hallesches Tor. E4

Magnet Club Rock, indie, and punk evenings, and dance floors both indoors and outdoors. Open Tue–Sun. www.magnet-club.de. Falckensteinstr. 48. T: 030.44008140. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Matrix Club Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18. T: 030.29369990. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

The Pearl One of the most luxurious clubs in town, the Charlottenburg newcomer attracts the poshest crowds from nearly every Kiez in Berlin, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Open Thu-Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. T: 030.31518890. U Zoologischer Garten G4

Soda Club

This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to disco, electro, and techno. www.soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97. T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Suicide Circus Friday is techno night, while Saturdays lean more toward house and tech-house at Suicide Circus, a trendy and sweaty club that has hosted some of the best DJs in Europe. Outdoor dance floor in summer. Wed–Sun. www.suicide-berlin.com. Revaler Str. 99. S Warschauer Straße. H4

Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s postWall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www. tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. T: 030.69537731. S Ostbahnhof. F3

Watergate A two-storey electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends. Mon and Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. T: 030.61280394. U Schlesisches Tor. G4 www.wheretraveler.com 59

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NIGHTLIFE WINE AND COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden next to a Mitte police station. Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com. Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Das Hotel The old wooden tables, chandeliers, and high ceilings at this relaxed bar recall the Paris of yesteryear. Next door, the DJ plays vintage classics from the '60s to the '90s. Daily from 2pm. dashotelclassic.blogspot.de. Mariannenstr. 26a. T: 030.84118433. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Die Weinerei One euro will get you a glass, which you can fill as many times as you want. Before you leave, leave as much money as you think your evening was worth. Friendly, unpretentious atmosphere, and good, organic food. Mon–Fri 1–8pm, Sat 11am–8pm. www.weinerei.com. Veteranenstr. 14. T: 030.4406983. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2 One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (until 4am Fri & Sat). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin – Lützowufer 15. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

Knutschfleck Cocktailbörse At Berlin’s first cocktail stock exchange, the more people drink, the more prices drop. Alongside an entertainment program packed full with Moulin Rouge Burlesque nights to Studio 54 danceoffs, karaoke, and open mic on Sundays. www. knutschfleck-berlin.de. Alexanderstr. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

Luzia Vintage furniture, Baroque elements, and decorated wallpaper give this comfy bar a bohemian feel. Probably the most luxurious bet on shabby Oranienstrasse. www.luzia.tc. Oranienstr. 34. T: 030.81799958. U Kottbusser Tor, Moritzplatz. F4

Newton Bar

Take To The Streets Roller skaters know all too well that cobbled footpaths are a nightmare, and most have probably dreamed of having access to the city’s many smoothly paved streets. Those dreams come true once or twice a month from May to August, when roads are closed off to cars and opened up instead to participants of Skate by Night. Take off at 8pm from Alexanderplatz and enjoy the luxury of rollerblading along a 20- to 30-kilometer route, taking in the summer air and finishing back where you started. Each event has a theme, from singles’ night to family and tourist night, and the main event this month is Mauernight, on 19 July, a ride that travels along select points where the Berlin Wall once stood. Safety takes priority, so skaters are asked to wear helmets and protective gear and are also invited to attend a short class before starting. Visit website for details. T: 0511 3538891. www.skatebynight.de

music Wed–Sat and rooftop terrace in summer. 9am–1am. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Newton Bar

A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden in summer. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafeberlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this luxurious bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am-3am (until 4am Fri & Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

The Oscar Wilde Irish Pub

Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am3am (until 4am Fri & Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3

The first Irish pub in Mitte, offering classics like Kilkenny or Guinness. Big screen for sporting events. Daily from 4pm (from noon on weekends). www.oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de. Friedrichstr. 112a. T: 030.2828166. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

LaBanca Bar

Reingold

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live

A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de.

Schwarzes Café

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. Open daily from noon to late evening. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4

Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Open daily 6.30pm–3am (until 4am on Friday & Saturday). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

PHOTO ©THINKSTOCK

Green Door Cocktail Bar

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ESSENTIALS

T DA

useful information Emergency numbers

ADVICE

Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, t: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof apotheke.

RECO M M EN

EXPERT

O N CI E R G E S

Berlin

F R O M B E R LI

S N’

t: 030.20614190. s Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes Museum Berlin Pass: allows three days of unlimited access to major museums. www.visitberlin.de Berlin Welcome Card: public transport for three days and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. www.visitberlin.de City Tour Card: as above, but conditions vary, so best to check which is most suitable for you. www.citytourcard.com

Berlin airports Berlin Tegel (TXL) approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. t: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

ask the Concierge Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Linda Urban, concierge at the Waldorf Astoria, is here to help. www.hotelconcierge.de

Courtesy of Waldorf astoria Berlin

What does your perfect day look like? My perfect days always start with a big breakfast, after which I like to go for long bike rides. I often go to one of the city’s numerous lakes (Müggelsee is one of my favorites) and spend the day there, then, on the way back, I'll have dinner in a cozy restaurant before letting the evening fade away with a good movie at the open-air cinema in Volkspark Friedrichshain. When friends visit, where do you take them? If it's their first Berlin visit, I show them the main sights before going on the obligatory Spree cruise. Otherwise, I take them on an underground tour with the Berliner Unterwelten tour agency. And if it’s Sunday, I’ll take them to one of the dozens of flea markets, like the one in Mauerpark. What are your secret Berlin tips? It’s got to be Briefmarken Weine – a wine bar in a former stamp shop on Karl-Marx-Allee in Friedrichshain. You can enjoy good wine and antipasti while classical music plays

in the background. The Jubel Patisserie in Prenzlauer Berg is also one of my favorite places for delicious cupcakes and tartlets. Tell us about your hotel. The Waldorf Astoria Hotel opened its doors in January 2013 and, standing at 118m (390ft) in height, it's currently the tallest building in the western part of the city. Our library on the 15th floor offers a fabulous view, to be enjoyed while sipping your afternoon tea. Our restaurant Les Solistes by Pierre Gagnaire serves contemporary French cuisine and is decorated with one Michelin star. Tips for a German speciality? You can get great pork knuckle with sauerkraut at the Zur kleinen Markthalle restaurant in Kreuzberg. Do you know a romantic spot in Berlin? Victoriapark in Kreuzberg and Friedrichsbrücke bridge in Mitte, where you have a great view over the Spree, as well as the Berliner Dom and the National Gallery.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. the tXl express bus to alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the u-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-platz. Bus 128 links to the u-Bahn at Kurt-schumacher-platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: service center in terminal a (ground floor). t: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. t: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: deutsche Bahn-operated

re7 or rB14 to ostbahnhof, alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. re9 to Hauptbahnhof via südkreuz and potsdamer platz. trains take approx. 45 mins. tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: trains s9 and s45 to Hauptbahnhof, via ostkreuz and südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to rudow station connect with the u-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: arrivals between midnight and 4am mon–fri can take bus n7 to central areas. By taxi: regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: at the multi-storey car park p4. t: 030.60911150.

GettinG around Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. single tickets cost €2.70, or four-trip tickets for €9, which you can validate as you need. www.wheretraveler.com 61

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ESSENTIALS If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.60. Day tickets cost €6.90 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €16.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €29.50.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every 5 mins (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The whole U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket you can also hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to the lakeside village of Kladow. It leaves every hour and takes about 20 mins.

Rail Travel

The Kurfürstenstraße U-Bahn station on the U12 line was designed in the mid 1920s by famed architect Alfred Grenander, but its interior was renovated in the 1980s with a calming look in mind, complete with pastel-colored wall tiles. sure your goods are unused. Go to the refund counter and present the stamped form, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

detailed and comprehensive knowledge of the local market. www.realestate.bnpparibas.de. neues Kranzler Eck. Kurfürstendamm 22. T: 030.884650. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Engel & Voelkers

Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company, including the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de, T: 0180.6996633 (toll number).

REAL ESTATE AGEnCIES

Rent A Bike

Allianz

Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations.

offers select properties and is developing a number of building projects in various areas of Berlin. www.allianz-realestate.com. Joachimstalerstr. 10-12. T: 030.212343562. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Architects, economists, certified real estate agents, and apprentices provide international clients with real estate services, building project planning, and supervision, as well as analyses and market reports. www.guthmann-estate.com. Blücherstr. 22. T: 030.69004240. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Berlin Capital Investments

HIHC Horvat

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.

T: 0180.6003690 (toll number)

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MonEy SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a Tax-Free Form when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent and a customs stamp obtained no later than three months after the date of purchase. Make

Ad Hoc Immobilien Specializes in Berlin and Brandenburg real estate sales. Apartments, whole buildings, villas, and more. www.adhoc-immo.de. Hohe Allee 36, 15366 neuenhagen bei Berlin. T: 03342.259560. Off Map

one of the world’s leading service companies in the provision of high-quality residential and commercial real estate and yachts in the premium segment. www.engelvoelkers.com. Bleibtreustr. 34-35. T: 030.88001188. S Savignyplatz. B4

Guthmann Estate

Specializes in apartment sales in central Berlin for both investment and self-use. Check website to search for small units, big apartments, or penthouses in Berlin’s most popular neighborhoods. www.berlin-capital.com. T: 030.52009700.

This real estate service agency will analyze clients’ housing needs and find an apartment to buy or rent on their behalf. HICH Horvat also offers relocation services for expats and international clients. www.hihc.de. olympische Str. 1. T: 030.33099930. U neu=Westend. Off Map

Berlin Hyp Immobilien

Virtu - Finest Real Estate

Helps clients better understand the German real estate market and offers a wide range of Berlin commercial properties, including office buildings, industrial estates, and stores and shops. www.berlinhyp-immobilien.de. Budapester Str. 1. T: 030.25999908. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Experts in the field of real estate, law, and economics joined to set new standards in the field of real estate marketing and consulting in Germany. www.virtu.com.de/en/. Jägerstr. 58-60. T: 030.20679590. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlin Yield Estate Residential and commercial buildings in Berlin. www.berlinyieldestate.com. Unter den Linden 16. T: 030.68324467. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlinmaegleren These agents cover a wide range of property types, from villas to apartments, and also offer rental services. Second branch in Prenzlauer Berg. www.berlinmaegleren.de. Rankestr. 30. T: 030.61202398. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

BNP Paribas Real Estate With its own subsidiaries and a close-knit network, this real estate agency is present nationwide. Covers all relevant real estate markets and ensures

Your Place Berlin These real estate agents and mediators offer personalized services and free consultations, promising to negotiate better deals for their clients. They specialize in clients who live abroad, offering to perform all research and to visit the apartments before the client’s arrival. www. yourplaceberlin.com. Willibald-Alexis-Str. 2. T: 030.53064083. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Ziegert Immobilien Has a large portfolio of apartments in all of Berlin’s neighborhoods and helps clients understand the German real estate market, offering advice on investment possibilities. www.ziegert-immobilien. de. Schlüterstr. 54. T: 030.88035350. S Savignyplatz. B4

PHoTo © THInKSToCK

The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

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TRANSPORT MAP

BVG licence numBer: BVG-0079.13, 4 may 2015.

ESSENTIALS

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Pl. d. 9. November 1989

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My Perfect Day while Fasanenstraße and the area around Savignyplatz continue to have notable galleries. The Zoo Palast cinemas and BikiniHaus are also quite cool.

You've worked as a curator with a wide variety of Berlin galleries and institutions. How would you characterize this city’s art scene in general? I got to know Berlin when it was still divided, when I moved from Kiel to the neighborhood of Neukölln in 1987. Back then, it was hard to imagine that the city could develop as it has. The art scene has since become incredibly lively and diverse, spanning everything from trash to high-end art. Today there are so many art spaces engaging both within and beyond the art market.

Helmut Newton Foundation

Dr. Matthias Harder [Curator]

Dr. Matthias Harder has been the chief curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation for over a decade, in addition to serving as a guest curator for numerous other institutions in and outside Berlin. Under the same roof as the Museum of Photography, the foundation presents the work of renowned German photographer Helmut Newton in dialogue with other contemporaries. Harder’s latest work for the institution is the recently opened exhibition Newton. Horvat. Brodziak (p. 44), which runs until 15 November. Jebensstr. 2, www.helmut-newton.de

How do you spend your leisure time? I spend time with my son, indulge in a game of tennis, or enjoy a more intensive visit to one of the many art shows in the city. For lunch, I often go from work to Schleusenkrug in Tiergarten (Müller-Breslau-Str.) or Kuchi (Kantstr. 30). If I’m in Mitte, I’ll go to Themroc (Torstr. 183) for dinner or grab a pastrami sandwich at Mogg & Melzer (Auguststr. 11–13) during the day. I also like Sale e Tabacchi in Kreuzberg (Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 25). When you have friends visiting you in Berlin, where do you take them? The Monkey Bar in the 25hours Hotel is nice for drinks, or a pizza at the Café am Neuen See in Tiergarten. Many of my friends are culture geeks like myself, so in the evening we’ll go from art opening to art opening and then to the movies. Could you share a special little spot in the neighborhood where you live? Pankow is one of Berlin’s fastest-growing districts, mainly due to the influx of young families. I recommend the Schloßpark and the Schönhausen Palace next to it, where the East German government received state guests and where the “Round Table Talks” were held after the fall of the Berlin Wall. A visit there will take you on a crazy journey through time, from the Baroque period to German reunification.

Zoo Palast movie theater

The foundation is located across from the Bahnhof Zoo station, a pretty iconic part of the city. What are some gems to discover in this neighborhood? The entire area has undergone a bit of a transformation in recent years. The “good old West” is back, embodying a spirit that is both traditional and innovative. The UdK (University of the Arts) is around the corner,

BIKINI BERLIN

Dr. MattHias HarDer: © steven KoHlstocK; c/o Berlin Gallery: © Mila HacKe; HelMut newton FounDation: © stepHan Müller; Zoo palast: courtesy oF lanDesarcHiv Berlin; tennis: © tHinKstocK; BiKini Berlin: courtesy oF BiKini Haus

Besides the Helmut Newton Foundation, which other places in the city do you like to visit to experience art or culture? As a classically trained art historian and archaeologist, I C/O Berlin love most of Museum Gallery at Island and much of the Amerika Kulturforum. And I find it Haus fantastic that C/O Berlin, one of the most exciting photo institutions in all of Germany, has moved into the former Amerika Haus, which is right next door to the foundation.

What are the most inspiring or exciting places in Berlin for you? Magical moments can occur practically anywhere: during a morning walk through Tiergarten, or strolling down Kantstraße after dinner with old friends at the Paris Bar.

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