Where Magazin Oktober 2015

Berlin

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®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

CELEBRATING

GERMAN UNITY Berlin fêtes the milestone 25th anniversary of a nation reunited.

PLUS: Berlin Brews Fall Foliage Walks Regional Cuisine

SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS WB OCT 2015 00 COVERNEW2.indd 9

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www.drive.porsche.com/en/start

Porsche Drive.

Let your emotions run free.

Porsche fans can now experience the fascination of our brand in Berlin. Since Porsche Drive has opened its second location in Germany, it allows anyone to fulfill their personal dream of driving a sports car. Ladies and gentlemen, start your engines. Find us at the Porsche Centre Berlin, Franklinstr. 23, 10587 Berlin.

Kraftstoffverbrauch (in l/100 km) innerorts 11,6–11,3 · außerorts 7,6–7,3 · kombiniert 9,0–8,7; CO2-Emissionen 212–204 g/km

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Berlin

10.15

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

10

14

5 Editor’s Note

The Guide The best of Berlin

SHOPPING

2XX0

6 Hot Dates

Chocoholics, now is not the time to resist your sweet tooth.

Highlights of this month's events, from horror nights to a kid-friendly harvest festival.

SIGHTSEEING

34

XX in the fall foliage Take on a brisk walk through heritage and history.

8

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

40

18 66 My Perfect Day Yannick Marty For this bartender – and cofounder of the popular Jigger, Beaker & Glass – every drink he creates is a work of art.

16

DINING

46

Guten Appetit! Eat your XX way through every corner of the nation.

ENTERTAINMENT

53

Clärchens Ballhaus has been a magnet for ballroom-dance enthusiasts since 1913.

Also Inside

NIGHTLIFE

59

61 Ask The Concierge

Hit the town at one of the city's unique restaurant-club hybrids.

Sebastian Sonnemann of the Titanic Deluxe Hotel offers tips for visiting Berlin.

Berlin

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®

Where Now

ESSENTIALS

61

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

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Don't leave Berlin without some of the country's most notable and luxurious brands.

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PLUS: Berlin Brews Fall Foliage Walks Regional Cuisine

16 Celebrating German Unity

BUS TXLL

Berlin fêtes the milestone 25th anniversary of a nation reunited.

H.-v.GagernStr.

10 Made in Germany

GERMAN UNITY

-

CELEBRATING

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HARVEST KIDS: © THINKSTOCK; LEGWEAR: COURTESY OF FALKE; BEER: COURTESY OF BRAUHAUS SÜDSTERN; GERMAN UNITY: © THINKSTOCK; SUNGLASSES: COURTESY OF MYKITA.

Berlin XX street art is ubiquitous.

Here's where to spot some of the most notable murals.

B Mu

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4 W H E R E B E R L I n I O C TO B E R 2015

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

My Cup Of Tea October: time for long tea breaks and admiring the brightly hued, falling leaves. Around this time of the year, I always pay a visit to Galeries Lafayette to stock up on tea from my favorite brand, Mariage Frères. My must-have blends are Lotus Royal, with lotus flowers, and Casablanca, aromatic with Moroccan mint and bergamot oil.

After a pleasant cuppa, I can't resist spending some time in the French department store's ground-floor gourmet section, where you can sample marvelous French cheeses with wine and even French-style sushi with camembert.

This month also marks the 25th anniversary of German Reunification (p. 16), so head to Brandenburg Gate on 3 October and join the crowds as they commemorate the event that changed the course of modern European history. Or celebrate the occasion by shopping for some of the country's most luxurious and world-renowned brands, which Jenna Rose Robbins has rounded up for you on page 10. Enjoy!

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN

permanen

(worth

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open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

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Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Cheese and wine aside, October is also the month of beer. With the liveliness of Munich’s Oktoberfest resounding throughout Germany, maybe it’s time to put on some Lederhosen and visit a Biergarten for some Bavarian fun – or create your own version of Oktoberfest by visiting one of Berlin’s numerous microbreweries.

Turn to page 14 for Hilda Hoy's roundup of the best local beers in town, the result of many hours of delicious research.

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until December, 31st 2015.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

BURN AFTER READING SPY MUSEUM BERLIN NEW OPENING AT POTSDAMER PLATZ top secret interaktiv international

spymuseumberlin.com

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

HOT DATES October overflows with festive events, from autumn celebrations to Grammy-winning performers.

FROM THURSDAY

8

CIRQUE DU SOLEIL

The world’s most beloved and highly acclaimed circus is back, making a pit stop at Mercedes-Benz Arena from 8–11 October. Immerse yourself in Varekai, an enchanting forest world at the top of a volcano where mystical creatures roam. The bright colors, stunning visuals, and renowned acrobatics of the Montreal-based troupe have made it not simply famous but also the largest theatrical producer in the world. www.cirquedusoleil.com 6 W H E R E B E R L I N I O C TO B E R 2015

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FRIDAY

16

IMAGINE DRAGONS

Their debut studio album, Night Visions, was a smashing success, winning Imagine Dragons a Grammy and launching the Radioactive rockers to international stardom. This month, Billboard's Breakthrough Band of 2013 makes a stop on their worldwide tour at Berlin’s Max-Schmeling-Halle, treating local fans to a whole new array of hits from their follow-up album, Smoke + Mirrors. www.max-schmeling-halle.de

FROM THURSDAY

1

BERLIN FOOD WEEK

Foodies won’t want to miss out on the last few days of Berlin Food Week. Put on your stretchy pants and head to the enormous Kraftwerk hall for a gourmet extravaganza of workshops, tastings, and exhibitions. The weeklong food festival also includes the Stadtmenü program, in which 50 Berlin restaurants – including Dae Mon, Martha’s, and Volt – offer a special prix-fixe menu for curious foodies. www.berlinfoodweek.de

FROM SATURDAY

17

HORROR NIGHTS

Looking for some Halloween hijinks? Then head to Potsdam's Filmpark Babelsberg, where monsters, mutants, and zombies roam the movie sets and star in stunt performances at the annual Horror Nights. The haunted houses, twisted labyrinths, and fearsome creatures roaming the dark alleys are frightful enough that only visitors 16+ are permitted. Open 17, 23–24, and 30–31 October. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de www.wheretraveler.com 7

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Our recommendations for every day of the month!

FROM FRIDAY

9

FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS

Every autumn, the Festival of Lights brings prominent landmarks such as the Brandenburg Gate, Berlin Cathedral, and the skyscrapers of Potsdamer Platz to life via colorful light shows that dance across their façades.

Between 9–18 October, the dazzling spectacle begins every evening at 7pm with a kaleidoscope of light projections, laser shows, and interactive video art. Book one of the LightSeeing tours to take in the festival’s full glory. www.festival-of-lights.de

WEDNESDAY

7

CROSBY, STILLS & NASH

There aren’t many bands still together who performed at the original 1969 Woodstock Festival, but you can flashback to that iconic folk-rock era when Crosby, Stills & Nash hit Tempodrom this month. Though the singers of such classic tunes as Long Time Gone and Just A Song Before I Go have gone gray in the decades since the Summer of Love, they’ve hung onto the rocking, freedom-seeking musical spirit that has earned them each a place in the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. www.tempodrom.de

SATURDAY & SUNDAY

10-11

HARVEST FESTIVAL Give thanks for the bounty of the season at the annual harvest festival at Domäne Dahlem, a farm dating back to the 1600s that’s still in operation as a family-friendly open-air agricultural museum, with soil to dig in and animals to pet. The weekendlong festival features a cornucopia of food and drink, a market of organic treats and traditional handcrafts, and a range of engaging hands-on activities. www.domaene-dahlem.de

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

OCTOBER View Piet Mondrian's Impressionist works at the Martin-Gropius-Bau exhibition.

The Domäne Dahlem offers a culinary “color detective” experiment for young ones.

Celebrate German Unity Day with a special orchestral concert at the Berlin Konzerthaus.

Learn about the historical significance of the Stasi Prison (tours at 11:30am and 2:30pm).

Discover 100 years of Leica photography at the Eyes Wide Open! exhibit at C/O Berlin.

Fans of classical music can enjoy a night of Beethoven at the Philharmonie.

Visit the Märkisches Museum to learn about the history of Berlin and Brandenburg.

Spend the day exploring the special Egypt exhibition the Neues Museum.

Stock up on fresh produce at the Turkish market along the Maybachufer waterside.

The American post-Abstract Expressionism exhibit at Hamburger Bahnhof ends soon.

English indie-rockers The Vaccines electrify the Postbahnhof tonight.

Deutsche Bank Kunsthalle examines the modern metropolis in STADT/BILD. Xenopolis.

The legendary Bob Dylan performs tonight and tomorrow at Tempodrom.

Be-bop away the evening at the B Flat Jazz Club's weekly jam session.

Taste the flavors of the world this evening at Street Food Thursdays in the Markthalle Neun.

American alt-rockers Imagine Dragons play the Max-Schmeling-Halle tonight.

The century-old Boxhagener Platz Farmers' Market takes place every Saturday.

Today's the last day to see calligraphy artist Aatifi's exhibit at the Pergamon Museum.

Drop by Kino International every Monday night to catch diverse film features.

Head to the foyer of the Philharmonie for a free lunchtime concert at 1pm.

Influential pop-punk band Fall Out Boy plays tonight at Columbiahalle.

Ballroom dance enthusiasts will find cha-cha and waltz at Clärchens Ballhaus this evening.

The 25th annual musical instrument exhibition and market starts today at the Konzerthaus.

The Pasadena Roof Orchestra performs their jazz classics tonight at the UdK Konzertsaal.

Savor food-truck fare at the Street Food auf Achse in the KulturBrauerei this afternoon.

Animal lovers can spend the day exploring the small zoo in Hasenheide park.

The world-famous Dave Matthews Band performs this evening at Columbiahalle.

Wunderkammer, a cabaret-circus-vaudeville fusion, plays tonight at the Chamäleon.

For local art and music, see a low-key live performance at the Woanders Bar. Opera night! Enjoy Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro tonight at the Deutsche Oper.

Browse the market at Arkonaplatz, then head to Mauerpark for afternoon karaoke.

ACROBATS: COURTESY OF CIRQUE DU SOLEIL; IMAGINE DRAGONS: © ELIOTT LEE HAZEL; HORROR NIGHTS: © FILMPARK BABELSBERG/ MATHWIG; DINNER: COURTESY OF MARTHA'S, © MILENA ZWERENZ; ASIAN SOUP: COURTESY OF DAE MON; YELLOW FIN MACKEREL: COURTESY OF DAE MON, © OLIVER PLATH; TART: COURTESY OF VOLT. BERLIN CATHEDRAL: © FRANK HERRMANN; CROSBY, STILLS & NASH: © ELEANOR STILLS; HARVEST: © THINKSTOCK.

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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galeries lafayette • kadewe • peek & cloppenburg

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WHERE NOW | THE BEST OF GERMAN BRANDS

To celebrate the milestone 25 years of unity, Jenna Rose Robbins offers highlights of some of the country’s most notable – and coveted – brands.

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PREVIOUS PAGE: BAG: COURTESY OF LIEBESKIND BERLIN; RING: COURTESY OF WEMPE; SOCKS: COURTESY OF FALKE; NUTCRACKER: COURTESY OF KÄTHE WOHLFAHRT; SHOE: COURTESY OF ZEHA; BACKPACK: COURTESY OF AIGNER; VASE: COURTESY OF KPM; BRACELET: COURTESY OF SABRINA DEHOFF. THIS PAGE: WOMAN ON CHAIR: COURTESY OF FALKE; CATWALK: COURTESY OF AIGNER.

Left: Since 1895, FALKE has been producing timeless classics in legwear. Right: The AIGNER label has expanded beyond leather accessories to include couture.

A

lthough carmakers such as Mercedes-Benz and Porsche are often the first to spring to mind when people think of German brands, there are scores of other products that highlight the innovative design and solid engineering that have become practically synonymous with Germanmade goods. We’ve rounded up some of the country’s most enduring labels that are worthy of getting hit with an airline’s overweight-luggage charge.

APPAREL While footwear brands Adidas and Puma are practically household names the world over, Zeha (p. 32) is almost unknown outside of its homeland. The brand was the footwear of choice for fashionable Berliners in the Golden Twenties, but today Zeha is best known for the distinctive double-striped sneakers that became popular during the

days of the Wall as the footwear of East German Olympic athletes. Whether out of a sense of style or of nostalgia, today Zeha is experiencing a resurgence in popularity. Pair those hip kicks with knee-highs or bold-print socks from FALKE (p. 32) for the ultimate in fashionable feet.

In the world of couture, several prominent fashion houses can claim German roots.

Munich-based ESCADA (p. 30) can now be found worldwide, with royalty such as Sweden’s Princess Victoria among the label’s fans. Even part-time fashionistas are already well acquainted with powerhouse BOSS (p. 28), but up-and-comer Michael Sontag (p. 30), a Berlin native whose designs have been worn by the editor-in-chief of German Vogue, is still relatively unknown in the English-speaking world. Shop his Kreuzberg boutique to be the first back home to wear the designer, who's known for clothes that are as flattering as they are chic.

ACCESSORIES It might be something in the water, because Munich is also home to AIGNER (p. 32), maker of classically styled leather goods bearing the familiar horseshoe logo, which recently celebrated its 50th anniversary in the fashion world. Leather gets more contemporary in the hands of Kreuzberg's own LIEBESKIND (p. 32), producer of totes and handbags that are both bold and casual, as well as a Vintage line characterized by a timeworn look.

If it's a little bling you're looking for, Hamburg-based Wempe (p. 32), founded more than 135 years ago, crafts luxury jewelry and timepieces that have earned a reputation for precision and attention to detail. Or opt for more modern pieces from Sabrina Dehoff (p. 32), another Berliner whose designs have caught fire with the cognoscenti: A few years ago, her cord bracelet was the statement piece desired by www.wheretraveler.com w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 11

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The quality porcelain of MEISSEN; a Playmobil pirate set; Christmas decorations from Käthe Wohlfahrt.

trendsetters, and it seems a season can't go by without German Vogue doing a piece on the designer.

HOUSEWARE AND DÉCOR German porcelain is in a class unto itself. The “white gold,” as porcelain was known when it was originally imported from the Far East, was first developed outside Asia in Meissen, Saxony, where the original manufactory still stands. The MEISSEN (p. 31) brand has since expanded to couture, accessories, and even interior design, but it’s the fine tableware for which the company is still best known. Not to be outdone, KPM (Königliche PorzellanManufactur, p. 38), founded by none other than Frederick II, still produces its royaltyworthy serving sets in Berlin’s Tiergarten district. The 1967 Stambul mocha service is so sought-after that it fetches steep prices at auctions. Learn more about KPM’s history with a visit to the company's museum, where you can watch artisans at work before perusing the on-site store.

If it’s seasonal flair you’re after, look no further than Käthe Wohlfahrt (p. 31), famous for Christmas decorations.

In addition to the “Christmas Village”

and museum that live year-round in the medieval town of Rothenburg, the yuletide purveyor pops up in Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmärkte) around the country each winter to offer its Bavarian-style nativity scenes, nutcrackers, and traditional Christmas pyramids, candle-fueled carousels that originated in the Erzgebirge (Ore Mountains) but which are now popular throughout the country.

TOYS Returning home emptyhanded for the little ones is verboten, so stock up on Teutonic toys that will make you the best parent/ aunt/uncle/godparent in town. Although Playmobil (p. 21) is almost as ubiquitous as the Danish company LEGO, picking up a set from the toy producer’s German homeland is a

surefire way to earn kudos with the kiddies.

Or share the nostalgia for yesteryear with wooden toys from HABA (www.haba. de), which prides itself as an “inventor for inquisitive minds.” With lines that cater to infants through mid-childhood, the eco-friendly toy company is best known for its wooden blocks, but other naturalmaterial products, such as fabric animals, have also achieved parent-approved standards. Find HABA products at Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus (p. 21) and most upscale department stores.

No matter what age you – or your souvenir recipients – are, the plush toys at Steiff (p. 21) will be cherished mementos for years to come.

The company, which holds claim to creating the original teddy bear (named for US President Theodore Roosevelt), still fabricates many of its products by hand, and its cuddly and highly coveted creations still bear the trademark Knopf im Ohr (“button in ear”) stamp of authenticity that has been a hallmark since 1904.

CUP AND PLATES: COURTESY OF MEISSEN; TOYS: COURTESY OF PLAYMOBIL; CHRISTMAS SCENE: COURTESY OF KÄTHE WOHLFAHRT; TEDDY BEAR: COURTESY OF STEIFF.

WHERE NOW | THE BEST OF GERMAN BRANDS

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F A L K E · P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY ·

LEG AESTHETICS

FALKE Leg Vitalizer 40, Art. Nr. 40593

FALKE Energizer 50, Art. Nr. 40585

FALKE Shaping Top 20, Art. Nr. 40511

Function & Beauty

Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 WB FALKE.indd 1

STORES BERLIN Leipziger Platz 12 /13 . Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95 08/09/2015 13:20

Beer The Berlin Way Beer is an essential part of any Berlin visitor’s itinerary. Hilda Hoy summed up her favorite spots for a tall, cold glass of unique local brews.

E

veryone knows Germany is the land of beer. But visitors to Berlin may be disappointed to learn that the rollicking Oktoberfest-style beer halls they’ve seen in movies are down south in Bavaria. Still, there's plenty of beer culture to experience here in the capital. From old-timey Brauerei making traditional pilsner-style German beers to trendy microbreweries whipping up creative craft brews, beer lovers will find themselves spoiled for choice.

Right in the center of the action in Mitte

is busy Brauhaus Lemke (Dircksenstr. 143, www.brauhaus-lemke.com), tucked into the red-bricked arches under the S-Bahn tracks at Hackescher Markt. The brewery serves a small selection of home-brewed Austrian- and Bohemian-style pilsners, plus a hearty menu that leans heavily South German, from sausages to schnitzel. Not too far away is Pfefferbräu (Schönhauser Allee 176, www.pfefferbraeu.de), which was first built in 1893 but fell into disrepair in the 20th century. The charming hilltop building recently got the restoration needed to

restore it to its former glory and now serves a small but solid menu of German specialties alongside the two house brews.

To accompany your pint of hoppy, bottomfermented pils or malty, extra-dark beer, try the wild boar meatballs, home-baked bread smeared with rich pork-crackling spread, or Spätzle noodles with three kinds of melted cheese.

Off the beaten tourist track in the northern Wedding district, Eschenbräu (Triftstr. 67, www.eschenbraeu.de) is a nofrills, down-to-earth pub that predominately

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PREVIOUS PAGE: COURTESY OF VAGABUND. THIS PAGE: BEER SAMPLES: COURTESY OF BRAUHAUS SÜDSTERN; INSET: © FRANK BENTERT.

WHERE NOW | MICROBREWERIES

The hoppy pilsners and dark, malty beers on tap at Brauhaus Südstern (main image) and Pfefferbräu (inset).

draws a younger crowd, though passionate beer fans of any age will find the trek up here worth their while. Unlike many other breweries in Berlin, Eschenbräu dares to get experimental with its rotating selection of seasonal brews. From smoked beers to pale ales to double-strength bock lagers clocking in at 8-percent alcohol, the beers on tap on any given visit to the “beer cellar” are always a surprise and always impressive. The brewery even distills its own fruit schnapps and presses all-natural apple juice.

For equally down-to-earth vibes plus a homey touch, head to Friedrichshain’s Hops & Barley (Wühlischstr. 22–23, www. hopsandbarley.eu), which inhabits a storefront space that was formerly home to a butcher shop. Antique tiles still decorate the walls but today, brewing, not butchering, is the house specialty. On tap are always a light pilsner, a malty dark brew, and a fruity wheat beer, plus one rotating special surprise. Or try a Schlangenbiss ("snakebite"), a blend of beer and Hops & Barley’s house-made, barrel-fermented

apple cider.

For those that take their beer very seriously, a trip to Brauhaus Südstern (p.

49) should be in the cards. Master brewer Thorsten Schoppe gives tours of the brewing facilities and even offers brewing courses. If you’re happy to specialize in drinking and leave the brewing to the experts, try Südstern's light, dark, and wheat beers, each of them fresh and unfiltered, plus rotating specialty kegs like organic spelt beer or British-style bitter ales. A sizable German menu, from Currywurst to Flammkuchen, helps all the alcohol go down easy.

Founded in 2011 by three American friends who had grown tired of the limited selection of local beers, Vagabund Brauerei (Antwerpener Str. 3, www. vagabundbrauerei.com) takes the microbrewery one step smaller: As Berlin’s self-proclaimed first nano brewery, Vagabund deliberately keeps batches small to allow for full creativity. The pint-sized taproom is a favorite destination for fans of

craft beer, and no wonder: The welcoming bar serves not only proprietary pale ales and creative concoctions like Szechuan Saison, infused with coriander seeds and Szechuan peppercorns, but also hard-to-find beers imported from around the world.

Then there’s Heidenpeters (Eisenbahnstr.

42–43, www.heidenpeters.de). Though it’s one of the newest microbrewers in Berlin and only open a few days a week, Heidenpeters has already attracted a staunchly loyal following with its addictive range of unique, fresh ales. Located in Kreuzberg’s 19th-century Markthalle Neun (p. 28), Heidenpeters brews its beer on site and serves it to happy customers on the days the market hall is open (Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday). The best time to come is Thursday between 5–10pm, when the hall hosts its weekly Street Food Thursday event. Take your pick from amongst the numerous food stands and then pull up a chair at one of Heidenpeters’ picnic tables, pairing your meal with a pint of their Thirsty Lady Pale Ale. www.wheretraveler.com 15

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11/09/2015 11:33

Where Now | REUNIFICATION DAY

Celebrating

German Unity

I

n 1990, one year after the Wall fell, Germany was officially reunited.

When East once again merged with West, the German Democratic Republic (East Germany) ceased to exist and the reunited country embarked upon a new chapter in its history. The event is commemorated each year on 3 October, officially known as German Unity Day (Tag der deutschen Einheit), and with 2015 marking the 25th anniversary, the whole country — and the capital city in particular — is planning a celebration befitting the occasion.

For the main festivities, head to the party mile stretching along Straße der 17. Juni, beginning at the Brandenburg Gate (p. 36), for a family-friendly street festival featuring live entertainment, beer gardens, and Deutschland delicacies.

Fairground attractions, including a ferris perfect acoustics and 7200-pipe organ, wheel with sweeping views of Tiergarten or a performance by actor Klaus Maria park, keep the kids entertained, while Brandauer at the Konzerthaus (p. 54). adults can toast unity with a Berliner As an educational option, you can Weisse, a regional variation of learn about everyday life in northern white beer, often the reunited country at the Fun fact flavored with raspberry or exhibit Unification: German In West Germany, German woodruff syrup. But for Society In The Transition at Unity Day was originally celebrated on 17 June to commemorate the many revelers, the best is the Deutsches Historisches 1953 uprising of East Berlin the Wurst, whether that Museum (p. 41). A short construction workers. Because of be Bratwurst, Weißwurst, train ride from city center, this, German Unity Day was celebrated twice in 1990: first or Berlin’s ubiquitous Rennbahn Hoppegarten on 17 June and again on Currywurst, which is (Goetheallee 1, www.

3 October. so popular it has its own hoppegarten.com) holds museum (p. 39). a celebratory horse race at For a more low-key occasion which the winner will receive the honoring the black, red, and gold (the Westminster Award of German Unity. colors of the German flag), attend a Or you can do as many Germans do and special concert at the neo-Renaissance simply enjoy the holiday with a barbecue Berlin Cathedral (p. 36), known for its or picnic in one of Berlin’s many parks.

© Thinkstock

Jenna Rose Robbins offers options both casual and rambunctious for the milestone celebration of Germany's national day.

16 W H E R E B E R L I N I O C TO B E R 2015

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16/09/2015 09:14

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* N o t wat e r p r o o f. Wat e r m ay p e n e t r at e t h e fa b r i c i f ex p o s e d t o wat e r fo r a p r o l o n g e d p e r i o d o f t i m e.

In its every detail, the new Ultra Light Down is made to keep water out. The fabric, down feather stuffing, and s t i t c h i ng are highly water repellent, and the zippers and shoulder areas are designed in a way that keeps water from seeping in. Light and warm, the new Ultra Light Down will help you enjoy those rainy days.

Men’s Parka and Women’s Short Coat now available!

Ultra Light Down Water Defender 79,90 € UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE • TAUENTzIENSTRASSE 7 B/C • 10789 BERLIN Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 10.07.2015, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstr. 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

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Get Your Chocolate Fix Here Annabelle Mallia’s sweet tooth led her to the best chocolate stores in town.

T

he question isn't “Do I like chocolate?” but rather “Which chocolate do I like the best?” As a favor to my fellow chocoholics, I've compiled a list of the most decadent confectionary meccas Berlin has to offer.

Fassbender & Rausch Chocolatiers am Gendarmenmarkt (p. 27), home to what is reputedly the longest praline counter in the world, features truffles, miniature chocolate tarts, and every other variety imaginable.

The in-house café also serves divine hot chocolates, iced chocolates, and even chocolate fondue. If you’re able to resist devouring them yourself, you can take home some decadent Berlin souvenirs for friends or simply admire the famous confectionary sculptures, such as the 2.5m-

(8ft-) long Brandenburg Gate made from mouthful. While your creation is solidifying, 300kg (661lb) worth of dark chocolate. check out the chocolate history museum or You don’t have to travel far for your next indulge in some liquid chocolate at the chocolate fix. Ritter Sport Bunte upstairs café.

SchokoWelt (p. 27), on the other side of the At Winterfeldt Schokoladen (p. 27), an Gendarmenmarkt old chemist's table square, is the flagship "Take home some decadent greets customers store of Germany’s Berlin souvenirs for friends or before they encounter beloved chocolate an abundance of simply admire the famous brand, Ritter Sport. international confectionary sculptures."

Inside, you’ll find the chocolates, some in full Ritter range, exotic and creative including my favorites, candied almond and combinations with stylish packaging that hazelnut cookies, or create your own flavor makes them perfect for gifts. The store also combination at the Ritter Sport counter, specializes in organic and fair-trade varieties where kids especially will enjoy the and offers its own range, which can be opportunity to mix gummy bears, bought by the chunk in flavors such as sour marshmallows, and Smarties all in one cherry, ginger, or violet.

Chocolate Samples and Counter: Courtesy of Winterfeldt Schokoladen; Chef Sculptor: Courtesy of Fassbender & Rausch; Ritter Sport Bunte SchokoWelt: Courtesy of Ritter Sport.

SHOPPING

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Shopping Stop

Named after a Prussian general who stormed the French garrison at Wittenberg in 1814, Tauentzienstraße, in the commercial center of West Berlin, is one of the city's most popular shopping destinations. Standing grand at the outset is KaDeWe (p. 27), the largest department store in continental Europe, which spreads out over seven luxurious floors.

On the corner of Nürnberger Straße is the Asian apparel sensation UNIQLO (p. 30), now stocking quality basics in urban hubs around the globe. Other stores dotting the street include fashion label Peek & Cloppenburg (No. 19) and the flagship LEGO Store (No. 20). The relatively short street culminates at Breitscheidplatz, dominated by the bombed-out Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (p. 36), but the shopping continues down the adjoining and famous Kurfürstendamm boulevard.

See www.wheretraveler.com/berlin for more shopping destinations.

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65.

Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 4 October, 25 October, 6 December, 20 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

Courtesy of Kaufhaus des Westens

Chocolate Samples and Counter: Courtesy of Winterfeldt Schokoladen; Chef Sculptor: Courtesy of Fassbender & Rausch; Ritter Sport Bunte SchokoWelt: Courtesy of Ritter Sport.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Neues Kranzler Eck – Kurfürstendamm 22, Mon–Sat 9:30am–8pm.

Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

Beauty & Wellness Aveda Lifestyle Salon Aveda’s objective is to respect the environment, a mission reflected in the herbal products they use and in their commitment to the well-being of others. A cup of tea welcomes you before you retreat to the spa or hairdresser. www.aveda.de.

Kurfürstendamm 26a. T: 030.88708790.

U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4

Harry Lehmann The grandson of this perfume shop’s founder continues an 80-year-long family tradition, mixing perfume from a spectrum of 50 scents. www.parfum-individual.de. Kantstr. 106.

T: 030.3243582. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. C4

Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas.

Best of all are the infusions, which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honeyand-salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de.

Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.258007820.

U Möckernbrücke. E4

Books & Music Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus Germany’s biggest selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction, kids’ books, and audio books.

With over two levels of wall-to-wall books, DVDs, and CDs, all genres are covered. Mon-Sat until midnight. Friedrichstr. 90. T: 030.20251111. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Shakespeare and Sons After spending 10 years selling English and French books in the Czech Republic, this cute little store has expanded to Berlin, with an impressive range of Eastern European literature available in English translations. www.shakesbooks.de. Raumerstr. 36.

T: 030.40003685. U Eberswalder Straße.

F1; Warschauerstr. 74. T: 030.40003685. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

Children Playmobil Since its invention in 1974, the plastic Playmobil figurines have been capturing the imagination and fostering the creativity of children worldwide.

The Mall of Berlin FunStore location offers an interactive, build-your-own-Playmobil station and countless accesories. www.playmobil.de. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20679100. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Steiff Galerie in Berlin Founded in 1880 by Margarete Steiff, this stuffed-animal company has developed into an international brand of quality cuddles. The bear Steiff created for U.S. President Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt in 1902 is the origin of the term "teddy bear." www.steiff.de. Kurfürstendamm 38–39. T: 030.88625006. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Concept Stores Departmentstore Quartier 206 This multi-brand store inside the Quartier 206 luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers. www.dsq206.com. Friedrichstr. 71.

T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3

Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route.

Listings continue on page 27 www.wheretraveler.com 21

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IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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MCM

FALKE

BIKINI BERLIN

German luxury purveyor MCM has launched its new Bionic Series, a collection of unisex backpacks and bags made of innovative lightweight material inspired by the interiorlight paneling on spaceships. Solid German craftsmanship combined with pioneering materials means the Bionic line is as waterresistant and durable as it is luxurious.

For more than a century, Falke has been at the forefront of hosiery, thanks to its focus on quality and eye for burgeoning trends.

Abiding by the motto "stylish fashions for modern people," the Schmallenberg-based label has since expanded to include chic sportswear, menswear, and accessories.

Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030 88553565 www.falke.com

Germany's first concept mall brings select labels, unique concept and pop-up stores, and a plethora of dining opportunities to the heart of West Berlin. Do not miss the extraordinary rooftop terrace with a view of the monkeys and flamingos in the zoo.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

Budapester Str. 38-50. www.bikiniberlin.de

Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030 8811104 www.mcmworldwide.com 22 W H E R E B E R L I N I O C TO B E R 2015

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BIKINIBERLI N . D E

ONLY IN BERLIN

Berlin is Europe’s capital of cool.

Find all the hotspots in one place: Only in Bikini Berlin.

THE CONCEPT SHOPPING MALL Z O OLOGISCHER GARTEN

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SHOPPING

Pan-Cultural Décor A design store in the trendy district of Prenzlauer Berg, Ting sells stylish home décor items and accessories handpicked from Scandinavia and Asia.

Products such as towels with birch tree designs, hexagonal brass-colored vases, alpaca scarves, and earrings by Nor all help give this shop its distinctive Nordic feel, with bright colors and patterns set against minimalist, functional furnishings.

Rykestr. 14. T: 030 53796506. www.ting-shop.com

www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2.

T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844.

U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3

Department Stores Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Courtesy of TING

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality.

If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

FOOD & Gourmet Fassbender & Rausch Berlin’s undisputed temple of confections features the world's longest chocolate counter and eyepopping sculptures, such as a model Reichstag made from 300kg (660lb) of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60.

T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3

Marheineke Markthalle One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market halls and samples from vendors. Mon-Fri 8am8pm, Sat 8am-6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de.

Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146.

U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Markthalle Neun One of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, the 1891 building has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market (Fri–Sat 10am–6pm). See website for other foodie

events, such as the popular Street Food Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. Eisenbahnstr. 42-43 T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de.

Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080.

U Französische Straße. E3

Winterfeldt Schokoladen The chocolate shop/café ’s gorgeous wooden interior dates back to 1892, when the space was still a pharmacy. Sample gourmet hot chocolates and stock up on chocolates from around the globe.

Daily B&L. www.winterfeldt-schokoladen.de.

Goltzstr. 23 T: 030.23623256. U Nollendorfplatz, U Eisenacher Straße. D4

Malls & Arcades Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr.

20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the

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SHOPPING

Foodies Wanted

One of the last remaining market halls from the late 19th century, Markthalle Neun was saved from the clutches of commercial chains and resurrected once again into a bustling food-lovers' destination. Friday and Saturday see the weekly farmers' market offering primarily regional specialties, including fish and meat smokeries and an on-site craft brewery. At Street Food Thursday, go beyond Currywurst to sample the cosmopolitan cuisines that have become city mainstays, such as American barbecue and warm Taiwanese gua bao, warm buns stuffed with your choice of meat. The third Sunday of the month hosts the widely popular breakfast market that lets you taste what it's like to wake up around the globe, with dishes such as eggs Benedict and Vietnamese porridge. (Come early, before the line wraps around the block.) Once your belly is filled, shop around the stalls selling everything from cookbooks to porcelain teacups.

Eisenbahnstr. 42–43. T: 030 61073473. www.markthalleneun.de

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions.

www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden. de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Fashion Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

BCBGMAXAZRIA The global label makes everything from evening gowns to everyday apparel, all with an eye for what makes a woman look and feel good. www.bcbg.com. Schlüterstr. 39. T: 030.88624770.

S Savignyplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com.

Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Bimba y Lola Founded by two sisters, the Spanish label specializes in fashion and accessories – all designed by a team in their 20s – that combine modern flair with Spanish playfulness. www.bimbaylola.com. Weinmeisterstr. 9b.

T: 030.28096770. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20644265. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25.

T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49.

T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Courtesy of Makrthalle Neun

mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50.

T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

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SHOPPING Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Claudia Skoda She used to party with Bowie and Iggy Pop and transformed knitwear into high fashion. Skoda is one of the most famous Berlin designers and this beautiful new boutique houses her latest figurehugging ensembles. www.claudiaskoda.com.

Mulackstr. 8. See website for more locations.

T: 030.40041884. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Darklands Relocating to a new space every few seasons, Darklands is a nomadic, multi-branded men’s fashion store. It stocks clothing by leaders in German avant-garde design with a strong preference for the darker end of the color spectrum. It’s hard to find, so see website for instructions. www.darklandsberlin.com. Heidestr.

46–52, Building 7. S Hauptbahnhof. D2

ESCADA Cool glamour, sensual femininity, and modern elegance are the hallmarks of the ESCADA brand, offering women not only a glamorous couture line but also must-have everyday fashion, as well as a range of accessories such as shoes, bags, jewelry, and fragrances. www.escada.com. See website for more locations. Kurfürstendamm 195.

T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Evelin Brandt Evelin Brandt offers an urban, feminine look with a skilful mix of elegance, casualness and extravagance. The label’s distinctive designs

highlight a woman’s individuality and personal charisma. Whether in beautiful jackets, flowing dresses, or accessories, customers will be strikingly well dressed. www.evelin-brandt.de. Friedrichstr.

153a. T: 030.2044444. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

G-Star RAW For more than 20 years, Dutch label G-Star RAW has been producing urban clothing inspired by military apparel made with raw denim. On the Ku’damm since 2013, the flagship store responds to the label’s philosophy, combining their original designs and materials with friendly expert service. www.g-star.com. Kurfürstendamm 16.

T: 030.88001973. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Juicy Couture The LA label most famous for its velour track suits (often with the logo emblazoned across the derrière) is available at the Berlin shopping mecca of KaDeWe. www.juicycouture.com. Tauentzienstr.

21–24. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Kaviar Gauche Signature pieces fuse dynamic patchwork cuts and femininity, first realized in their classic Lamella bag.

In the last few years, motivated by the success of their cocktail dresses, fashion designers Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Röhler also specialize in bridal wear. www.kaviargauche.com. Linienstr.

44. T: 030.28873562. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Liu Jo Since 1995, this major Italian fashion company has been aiming to bring out every woman’s natural beauty with elegance and quality. Contemporary and glamorous, practical yet professional, Liu Jo’s collection ranges from clothing to shoes to beachwear, including selections for men and

children. www.liujo.com. Mall of Berlin.

T: 030.20624744. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com.

Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte.

E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who

The internationally recognized Zara brand has paved the way in the fashion realm for other Iberian labels, who are now nearly as ubiquitous in the city as döner kebab stands.

Based in Barcelona, Desigual (www.desigual. com) – who has used model Winnie Harlow in its campaigns – has eight Berlin stores stocking its signature bold designs and original graffiti art. The Zara umbrella has branched out its offerings with men's clothing house Massimo Dutti (www.massimodutti.com) and younger brand Bershka (www.bershka.com), each of which claim two locations. But the label that seems best poised to usurp the Spanish fashion crown is Bimba Y Lola (www.bimbaylola.com).

The labor of love for two Spanish sisters, who create feminine designs for the urban woman, has become a juggernaut that has expanded into more than 15 countries in just its first decade. Look for Uxia and Maria Dominguez's stylish yet affordable designs on Weinmeisterstraße and at the Mall of Berlin.

Visit websites for store locations.

Dress by Bimba Y Lola

courtesy of Bimba Y Lola

Spanish Style Hits Berlin

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are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com.

Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Home Décor Käthe Wohlfahrt The family-run shop is dedicated exclusively to Christmas, featuring everything from tree ornaments and nutcracker figurines to gingerbread houses and traditional German Christmas pyramids from the Erzgebirge but which are now popular countrywide. Kurfürstendamm 225/226.

T: 800.4090150. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

MEISSEN Founded over 300 years ago by Augustus the Strong himself, this was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer. Visit their Berlin stores for a range of tableware, jewelry, artwork, and figurines, all identified by the signature crossed swords. www.meissen.com. Unter den Linden 39b. T: 030.22679028. U Französische Straße.

E3; Kurfürstendamm 21. T: 030.88625085.

U Kurfürstendamm. B3

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

McAG N/Given GB Client Client -- McAG Type Type Area Area -- N/Given Initials Initials -- GL Belin mm mm -- 100 100 Outlet OutletA--LBelin Bleed Scale O - S A 1 0 A M - 9 PScale M E X A A T A L E X A N D E R P L ABleed T Z -- M OP E N ON SUNDAYS: FOOD C O U R-- T A N D L E I S U REffective E A R E ADPI -- Press Press 04–09–2015 04–09–2015 >300 Ad Ad Type Type Date Date Effective DPI -- >300 File File Name Name Where Mag Mag Publication Publication -- Where -GL0846_0010_AW15_Berlin_Press_Where_Magazine_118x124mm_AW -GL0846_0010_AW15_Berlin_Press_Where_Magazine_118x124mm_AW 118x124mm Size Size -- 118x124mm

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Take a trip back in time. This little store has selected the most beautiful highlights from 1960-70s East German fashion, furniture, and accessories with lots of – you guessed it – orange. www.veborange.de. Oderberger Str. 29.

T: 030.97886886. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Jewelry & Watches Bucherer With a dedicated Rolex and Patek Philippe corner and a wide range of other prestigious watch brands, as well as exclusive jewelry creations, the Bucherer store provides first-class service and a unique shopping experience. www.bucherer.com.

Friedrichstr. 176-179. T: 030.2041049. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 45. T: 030.8804030.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

www.alexacentre.com |

become a fan of ALEXA

Juwelier LorenZ A family business since 1874, one of Berlin's most prestigious watchmakers and jewelers showcases Rolex, Cartier, Raymond Weil, and Tudor. www.juwelier-lorenz.de. Rheinstr. 59.

Make it yours.

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SHOPPING T: 030.8512020. U Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz.

Off Map

Shoes & Accessories AIGNER

Juweliere Leicht This jewelry shop has its own manufactory and also carries luxurious brands like Bulgari, Utopia, Noor, and Meissen, as well as proprietary designs manufactured with gold and precious stones. www.leicht-jewellery.com. Unter den Linden 77.

T: 030.2290212. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Sabrina Dehoff

The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics.

Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50.

T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories for the world’s most seasoned travelers. www.mcmworldwide.com. Kurfürstendamm 186.

T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Michal Negrin

The former Guy Laroche designer's pieces Buffalo Boots are definitely not shy, incorporating One of the most famous shoe brands everything from neon colors to in Europe. www.buffalo-shop.de. See chunky crystals, bold gem settings website for more locations. Kantstr. to ultra-feminine motifs like bows.

31. S Savignyplatz. B4; Rosenthaler The most enduring Dehoff classic Most stores are closed Str. 46. U Weinmeisterstraße. E2 is her cord bracelet, which has Sundays, but many decorated the wrists of many a Falke Flagship Store museums – and their gift Berliner. www.sabrinadehoff.com.

This legwear shop caters to both shops – are open.

Torstr. 175. T: 030.93624680. men and women with all kinds of U Rosenthaler Platz. E2 socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs Wempe warm. They also have a good selection of sports One of the oldest family businesses in Germany accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. and watches, and in particular for its precision T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4 timepieces and attention to detail. Also visit their Rolex boutique on the Ku’damm.

LIEBESKIND Berlin www.wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See High-quality leather accessories and shoes, from website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. casual to classic, designed in Berlin. de.liebeskindU Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. berlin.com. See website for further locations. Neue T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3 Schönhauser Str. 8 T: 030.24781600 F3

The Israeli designer has been creating a unique lifestyle look for 20 years, with an eye on fashion, jewelry, and home décor. Inspired by vintage themes with romantic and Victorian elements, Negrin’s creations are made with Swarovski crystals and luxe fabrics. www.michalnegrin.com.

Mall of Berlin T: 030.20143466. U Mohrenstraße. E3

MYKITA Hand-assembled in their manufactory in Mitte, these designer glasses combine precision craftsmanship with new technologies. What started out in an old nursery (Kita) has now received worldwide acclaim. www.mykita.com.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 6. T: 030.67308715. S+U Alexanderplatz, U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Zeha Founded over 100 years ago, the Zeha label earned success with its sports shoes, which became the official sneakers of East German Olympic athletes. The company paid homage to its founder by resurrecting the retro style of the ‘50s with its Carl Häßner Collection, still a bestseller today. www.zeha-berlin.de. Prenzlauer Allee 22.

T: 030.44034607. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Shopping Essentials sizing GUIDE

shoes UK

US

clothes Euro

UK

women 3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

Xs s m l

6 8 10 12 14 16

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

men (chest) 41 42 43 45 46 47

s m l

34 36 38 40 42 44

Children 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

women 36 37 38 39 41 42

men 7 8 9 10 11 12

US

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

Children 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

UNIQLO Tauentzienstr. 7b/c.

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SIGHTSEEING

Rich In Color, Rich In History

T

he streets of the German capital are home to around 438,000 trees, providing a verdant urban sanctuary even in more developed neighborhoods.

And while plenty of fall colors are to be found within the city's borders, a venture further afield provides some lesser-trod paths for a brisk nature walk.

A hike through Grunewald offers a glimpse not only of established idyllic woodland but also the area's history, which spans an impressive five centuries. Hop off the U-Bahn at Oskar-Helene-Heim station and head for Hüttenweg, which leads to the Jagdschloss (Hunting Palace) of Grunewald.

Built in 1543, this is the oldest of 32 historical Prussian palaces belonging to the Hohenzollern dynasty and is home to grand works of art from the 15th to 18th centuries.

Alternatively, for something less pretty, head to Teufelsberg (Devil’s Mountain), Berlin's highest point, where spotting wild boar is not uncommon. Atop the hill sits a curious construction: a former US listening station from the Cold War era, which was in use until the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Spandau Forest, to the west of the city, offers opportunities to stroll or cycle – away from the urban din – in a nature reserve that's home to hawks, kingfishers, and

beavers. Take the 671 bus from Spandau station to Schönwalder Allee to start on a picturesque walk past idyllic pastures and along the well-preserved Berlin Wall Trail.

If you’re heading to Potsdam for a day, get off the train one stop earlier at S Potsdam-Babelsberg and explore a section of the majestic Babelsberg Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, in its glorious autumn shades. The 114 hectares are the site of a neo-Gothic palace, the fairytaleesque Flatow Tower, and even the Kleines Schloß (Little Palace), which doubles as a cozy café where you can reward your walking efforts.

© Thinkstock

Caroline Evans pulled on her boots for a walk through the photogenic forests in and around Berlin.

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SIGHTSEEING MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steelclad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 4041. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Haus der Kulturen der Welt Dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals due to its curvy shape, the building that is now home to the House of the Cultures of the World was originally built as a congress hall in 1956 but quickly became a symbol of Western freedom and creativity, in contrast to East German architectural projects of the time. Computer-guided chime concerts ring daily at noon and 6pm, and the building now hosts concerts and intercultural events. Daily 10am–7pm. Prices vary. www.hkw.de. John-FosterDulles-Allee 10. T: 030.397870. U Bundestag. D3

Warm Up To Wildlife

The Berlin Zoo (p. 39) houses the most species of any zoo in the world. Even in cold temperatures, you’ll spy a fair number of exotic beasts, due to the zoo’s numerous animal houses. In the primate house, watch monkeys and orangutans swing from rope to rope, or pop over to peek at the gorillas to see just how close the great apes can be to us humans.

You may hear a lion roar in the carnivore house, while downstairs you can see the nocturnal animals scurry about in darkness. Even the hippos have an indoor enclosure, where the huge beasts swim surprisingly elegantly through the water. On the other side of the zoo, the giant-bird house showcases different breeds by continent. Check the zoo website for feeding times to make your animal encounters even more exciting. Tip: Catch a free peek of the playful monkeys from the warm interior of the BIKINI BERLIN mall (p.28), which has views overlooking the zoo.

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche

the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an are replicas of destroyed originals that dated anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, since its ruins were restored to their present state Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition museum. Other points of interest include the of before-and-after photos documenting its Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeier-style and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middlelook up to admire what remains of the class townhouse that escaped WWII old mosaic. Daily 9am–6pm. www. damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023.

Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U U Zoologischer Garten, Alexanderplatz. F3 Germany's 1300 U Kurfürstendamm. C4

New Synagogue

breweries make nearly 5000 kinds of beer.

Before the war, this MoorishByzantine-style synagogue was Berlin’s largest Jewish place of worship. The synagogue was seriously damaged during the infamous Kristallnacht pogroms of 1938, while Allied bombs gave it the coup de grâce in 1943.

The exotic gold dome is today the icon of Berlin’s Jewish rebirth, and the partially reconstructed building now houses a Jewish center and a museum. Museum: €3.50/3. Dome €2/1.50. Under6s free. www.cjudaicum.de. Oranienburgerstr.

28-30. T: 030.88028300. S Oranienburgerstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E2

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz

In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–7:30pm (until 6pm Nov– Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Philharmonie The seat of the world-famous Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra is one of Germany’s finest post-War architectural achievements. The exteriors recall a circus tent, while the pentagonal concert hall is arranged with a central podium for the orchestra and galleries for the audience

© THINKSTOCK

The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon– Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/4. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM around all sides. See Entertainment section for full program. Guided tours daily at 1:30pm. €5/3. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254888156. S+U Potsdamer Platz, U Mendelssohn Bartholdy Park. D3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am– midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available.

www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. The terrace offers great vistas. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961.

U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–7pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340.

U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving

stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts

from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Grounds and open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. T: 030.467986666. U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a

Thank you for keeping Berlin clean Please make sure you use our 22.000 waste baskets

www.BSR.de/sauber

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SIGHTSEEING homosexuals, and people considered “inferior” arrived a few years later. Daily 8:30am–6pm (midOct–mid-Mar until 4:30pm); Mon museums and exhibitions closed. Free. Guided tours available. www.stiftung-bg.de. Straße der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. T: 03301.200200. S Oranienburg or RE Oranienburg train from Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Stasi Prison

No, that wasn't a pterodactyl you just spotted. The bird with the enormous wingspan that soared across the sky was a crane. Every autumn, the continental crane follows a migratory flight path over Germany, starting from its breeding areas in Scandinavia and northern Europe and ending at its winter sanctuary in Spain. Along this route are several important stopovers, or roosting sites, where they gather in spectacular numbers. Storchendorf Linum, about an hour's drive northwest of Berlin, is one of the best crane-watching spots in the country, with bird populations reported to be a record 100,000 in 2014. Birding Berlin offers English-language bird-watching tours around the region. www.birdingberlin.com. T: 039 88852584

timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Berlin, the company still makes exquisite, worldrenowned tableware and decorative goods. At its Tiergarten headquarters, the oldest still-running manufactory in the city, visitors can take a tour, enjoy the café, and – of course – shop for beautiful hand-painted porcelain. www.kpm-berlin.com.

Wegelystr. 1. T: 030.390090. S Tiergarten. C3

Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie) This privately run exhibit explores the crafty inventions used by East Germans to escape East Germany, including Trabant cars with hidden doors, hot-air balloons, tunnels, and chairlifts.

Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. €12.50/6.50. www.mauermuseum.de. Friedrichstr. 43-45.

T: 030.2537250. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

KPM Berlin

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

Once upon a time in Berlin, a German king bought a local porcelain factory, and Königliche PorzellanManufaktur was born. Today known as KPM

Built in 1936 by prisoners as a model concentration camp, Sachsenhausen saw mainly political prisoners in its first years, while Jews, gypsies,

GERMANY REUNITES

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A preserved segment of the Berlin Wall runs along exhibition grounds. To Jan 3: Germany 1945: The Last Months of the War. Daily 10am–8pm.

Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße, S+U Potsdamer Platz. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” The permanent exhibition Border Experience: Everyday Life in Divided Germany recounts the effects of the border on German residents of the time. Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm).

Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

KIDS & FAMILIES Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of

KEY MOMENTS IN THE RE-JOINING OF EAST AND WEST

9 Nov 1989

28 Nov 1989

22 Dec 1989

18 Mar 1990

22 Jun 1990

1 Jul 1990

Crowds storm the Berlin Wall after the GDR announces travel to the West is now permitted.

Chancellor Helmut Kohl announces a five-year plan for reunification.

The border is reopened at Brandenburg Gate.

East Germany holds free elections for the first time in four decades.

The guard station at Checkpoint Charlie is removed.

East Germany begins using the deutschmark, replacing the Ostmark.

GERMANY REUNITES IMAGES © ISTOCK; STORCHENDORF LINUM ©THINKSTOCK

Call Of The Wild

MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm. €5/2.50. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230.

S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

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SIGHTSEEING Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org. Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8.

T: 030.83850100. S Botanischer Garten. Off Map

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E4

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon– Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/3.50. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

Domäne Dahlem City Farm

Halloween Horrors

©THE DUNGEONS

You’ve carved the pumpkin, bought the frightening costume, played some pranks while trick-or-treating, and bobbed for apples. Now it’s time to visit a haunted attraction and listen to a few scary stories. Berlin Dungeon (p. 38) will have you laughing and screaming during a 60-minute journey through 700 years of the city's darkest history. You’ll come face-to-face with sinister characters such as the twisted monk Pater Roderich and infamous Berlin serial killer Carl Grossmann, who may have claimed as many as 50 victims. Experience the deadly plague in Kloster Straße and dreaded torture chamber, then make your escape via river raft down the Spree river.

English tours offered daily at 11:30am, 2:30pm, and 5:45pm. Not recommended for young children.

Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20/16 (discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult.

Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com.

Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

alligators. Daily 9am–6pm. Zoo or aquarium: €13/6.50, under-5s free.

Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium

Botanischer Garten

MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and

A real farm in the Berlin suburbs, with a manor house from the 1600s, boasts farm grounds that are still in use, complete with all the usual barnyard animals. There’s also a small exhibition of ancient agricultural tools and a Saturday-morning farmers’ market. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm in summer. Farm: Free except during special events. Museum: €3/1.50. www.domaenedahlem.de. Königin-LuiseStr. 49. T: 030.6663000. U Dahlem Dorf. Off Map

Madame Tussauds

Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. The legendary wax museum also has a section explaining how the figures are made. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 9pm). €21/16, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.

The Berlin Zoo is home com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U to more than 1500 Brandenburger Tor. E3 species, making it one of

the world's largest.

This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants.

Open daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset.

Museum für Naturkunde

Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue– Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €6/3.50. www. naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43.

T: 030.20938591.

U Naturkundemuseum. E2

21 Jul 1990

31 Aug 1990

12 Sep 1990

30 Oct 1990

2 Dec 1990

20 Dec 1990

Pink Floyd performs their rock opera The Wall on the former death strip near the Brandenburg Gate.

The 1000-page unification treaty is signed.

Germany formerly earns its sovereignty from the Allies (U.S., France, Great Britain, and the USSR).

The flag of the reunited country flies over the Reichstag in Berlin. The GDR officially no longer exists.

The first parliamentary elections for the united country are held.

The new parliament is formed.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Open-Air Galleries In support of the urban contemporary art movement, Annabelle Mallia explores the creative, humorous, and political art of Berlin’s streets.

A

rt in Berlin does not confine itself to the 170-plus museums around the city – it also lives on the streets.

In and around Rosenthaler Straße in Mitte, practically every available space is covered with spray paint and stencil art, and you’ll even find works by the celebrated British artist Banksy and The Police London group.

A walk up and down Alte Schönhauser Straße and Schönhauser Allee in the trendy district of Prenzlauer Berg also reveals walls that have been turned into canvases.

Possibly the largest and longest-lasting open air gallery in the world, however, is the East Side Gallery (p. 37). Consisting of 105 works painted in 1990 by artists from all over the world, the gallery stretches along

a 1.3km (.8mi) section of the Berlin Wall and been decorated with peculiar Indian-like stands as an international memorial for figures and a sensual wolf-like creature freedom and hope. by artist Birdman. The nearby corner of On Bülowstraße near Nollendorfplatz, the Alvenslebenstraße and Kirchbachstraße is passer-by also quickly becomes a gallery home to a mural by British artist Phlegm, visitor. Four times a year, Urban Nation whose work has been described as both (www.urban-nation. childlike and menacing.

“The East Side Gallery net), a young BerlinAdditional Urban Nation based street art network, projects can be spotted is the largest open-air invites internationally citywide. gallery in the world.” renowned sprayers to If admiring the redesign the façades of select buildings. creative fruits of others has you inspired, The four-story complex at No. 7 particularly join the workshop offered by lifestyle guides draws attention and brings color and Berlinagenten (www.berlinagenten.com), panache to the otherwise not-so-glamorous who offer the chance both to explore street neighborhood. On the other side of art and to try your hand at creating a chef d’oeuvre of your own. the road, at No. 95, a series of pillars has

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Museums Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs,and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 26 Oct: Dialogues: Photographs by Hélène Binet explores the black-and-white world of the renowned architecture photographer. Wed– Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14.

T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum.

Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242.

U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. This museum explores the history of the movement through the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9.

T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1 (in front of the Berliner Dom).

T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Courtesy of Urban Nation + Artist Phlegm

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 25 Oct: 1945–Defeat. Liberation. New Beginning exposes the efforts of various European nations made to rebuilding and recovering from WWII. To 1 Dec: Homosexuality_ies focuses on the past 150 years of queer history in Germany. To 3 Jan: Unification explores the challenges and experiences faced by the newly-unified Germany after the fall of the Wall. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and

Mysterious Shapes & Lines After studying the art of calligraphy in Kandahar, the city of his birth, artist Aatifi became interested in the visual beauty of the Arabic script. His art takes these characters, fragments them, rotates them, and then layers the lines and shapes with bold colors to convey power and dynamism. The exhibition News From Afghanistan includes three dozen works that Aatifi, who now resides in Bielefeld, Germany, created specifically for the Museum für Islamische Kunst (Museum for Islamic Art) inside the Pergamon Museum (p. 42), where the artist’s large-scale pieces are displayed alongside art from 14 centuries of Islamic culture. A highlight comes in the Mshatta Hall, which features the early-Islamic palace façade from 8th-century Jordan opposite Aatifi’s paintings echoing the exterior’s monumentality and resulting in 1250 years of art in dialogue. Until 18 Oct.

communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 1 Dec: Homosexuality_ies focuses on the past 150 years of queer history in Germany. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73.

T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the studio of the German Secessionist artist who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. To 11 Oct: Hans Arp. The Navel of Avant-Garde revisits the innovation and newly-discovered works of the radical co-founder of Dadasim. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum. de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14.

T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war, which she experienced directly after losing both her son and grandson in battle. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24.

T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett

MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. From 16 Oct: The Botticelli Coup presents the revival of interest in Sandro Botticelli and the controversial circumstances surrounding the acquisition of the collection in the 19th century.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neo-Gothic setting. To 25 Oct: Berlin 1945/46 focuses on the aftermath of WWII on Germany and those who rebuilt Berlin. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of www.wheretraveler.com 41

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The Network

People, Cables, Data Streams

MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau

A new exhibition about the networked world Opens 09.09.2015

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Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de

Take a walk though

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Berlin’s history

®

Berlin

Europeanization in Japan during the late 19th century. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and Museum of Things photography exhibition spaces and an important Showcases a varied selection of objects example of early 20th-century architecture, the representing 20th-century design and everyday imposing building combines Italian Renaissance culture, from kitsch souvenirs to TV sets and teddy elements with local features, such as mosaics of bears. Thu–Mon noon–7pm. €5/3. allegorical figures. From 15 Oct: Germaine Krull.

Photographs highlights one of the 20th century’s www.museumderdinge.de. Oranienstr. 25. most important photographers. To 6 Dec: Piet T: 030.92106311. U Kottbusser Tor. F4 Mondrian. The Line. The artistic developments of Museum The Kennedys one of the 20th century’s most iconic artists.

When he delivered his famous “Ich To 10 Jan: From Hockney to Holbein bin ein Berliner” speech, John F. focuses on 250 of the 16,000 works Kennedy automatically became found in the Würth private collection.

Berlin’s favorite US president. This Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary museum, a tribute to him and his by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

In 2015, archaeologists family, features films, photographs, Niederkirchnerstr. 7. found what they believe is and even comic books that tell T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4 Nefertiti’s tomb. See her us about his visit to Berlin, his famous bust at the Menschen Museum assassination, and his children.

Neues Museum.

The internationally popular touring Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. €5/2.50. www. exhibition Body Worlds showcased thekennedys.de. Auguststr. 11–13. T: anatomist Gunther von Hagens’ plastination 030.20653570. process, which preserves body parts and reveals S Oranienburger Straße. E2 their inner structures. The permanent Berlin Neues Museum exhibition shows 200 body parts amd 20 wholeMUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen body preparations, focusing on specific organs Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a and diseases. Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10am– world-famous Egyptian collection that includes 7pm. €14/12. www.memu.berlin. Panoramaplatz 1. many important papyruses, while hundreds of S+U Alexanderplatz. F3 artifacts relate early human history. Badly Museum of Asian Art damaged during WWII and left abandoned until The important collection of East Asian and Indian the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. From 17 works includes fabulous lacquered objects, Oct: Ancient Egypt: To 16 Nov: Egypt’s Emergence ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on Into History takes a look at the origins of early art along the Silk Route. To 18 Oct: Global Images Egyptian culture, focusing on the mastery of in Motion. A look into the consequences of urban mediums such as stone and ivory. Tue–Fri expansion in Xian Cun, an area within Guangzhou.

10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm.

To 6 Jan: RAGAMALA examines music and love in €12/6. www.neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. relation to Indian music theory. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum.

S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242. U Dahlem Pergamon Museum Dorf. Off Map One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon Museum for Communication houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thAn entertaining journey through the history of century archeology excavations. The imposing communication inside the neo-Baroque building Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks that once housed Berlin’s post office museum. is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Robots welcome visitors, while iPads make perfect Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian tour guides through the development of postal palace, and many other splendorous testimonies and telephone communication, all the way to the to the ancient world. From September 2014 to all of era of information technology. To 21 Feb: Jetzt 2019, the altar room will be closed for restoration.

Wächst Zumammen, Was Zusammen Gehört explores To 18 Oct: Aatifi – News From Afghanistan explores development of the postal and communication artist Aatifi’s modified and aesthetically reduced network in former East Germany after 1990. Tue calligraphy in relation to the culturally-rich Islamic 9am–8pm, Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am– world. From 23 Oct: How Islamic Art Came To 6pm. €4/2. www.mfk-berlin.de. Leipziger Str. 16.

Berlin celebrates the founding and lasting impact T: 030.202940. U Mohrenstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3 of the Museum of Islamic Art, located inside the Pergamon. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Museum of Photography Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6.

Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3 collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909

building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 15 Nov: Newton. Horvat. Brodziak. Newton’s works are shown in conjunction with those of fashion and portrait photographers Frank Horvat and Szymon Brodziak. To 10 Jan: Pale Pink And Light Blue displays more than 200 of the most significant images and photographs of the Meiji Era, a time of rapid

Art galleries Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue

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ART this month Our picks for this month’s must-see Exhibits The Botticelli Renaissance

DANCING ON THE VOLCANO

To 24 Jan: The evolution of the Florentine master’s legacy, including modern takes by Warhol and others. Gemäldegalerie (p. 44)

Dialogues: Photographs By HélÈNE BINET

The Berlin of The TwenTies as reflecTed in The arTs

From 26 Oct: The black-and-white world of the renowned architecture photographer. Bauhaus Archiv (p. 41)

04.09.2015 – 31.01.2016

Extended Reality To 22 Nov: Works by Polish conceptual artist Alicja Kwade. Haus am Waldsee (p. 44)

EpHrAIm-pALAIs pOsTsTrAssE 16 | 10178 BErLIN www.stadtmuseum.de

Eyes Wide Open!

To 1 Nov: More than 300 works by renowned Leica photographers help tell the camera brand’s history. C/O Berlin (p. 44)

From Hockney to Holbein To 10 Jan: Features 250 of the 16,000 works found in the Würth private collection.

Martin-Gropius-Bau (p. 42)

parTners

Hans Arp: The Navel of Avant-Garde To 11 Oct: The innovation and newly discovered works of the radical co-founder of Dadasim.

Georg-Kolbe-Museum (p. 41)

A world of exhibitions

How Islamic Art Came to Berlin From 23 Oct: The founding and lasting impact of the Museum of Islamic Art. Pergamon (p. 42)

Wim Wenders

The Network From 9 Sep: Examining the normalcy of being connected to the internet 24/7. Deutsches Technikmuseum (p. 39)

Radically Modern

STADT/BILD. Xenopolis From 8 Nov: One of four in a series of exhibits that examines various aspects of the city.

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle (p. 44)

WIM WENDERS: TIME CAPSULES BY THE SIDE OF THE ROAD To 14 Nov: Recent photos from the renowned film director. BLAIN|SOUTHERN, Danziger Str. 2. www.blainsouthern.com

IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

PHOTO © PETER LINDBERGH 2015

To 26 Oct: The first-ever comprehensive exhibit on Berlin’s architectural heritage and urban development. Berlinische Galerie (p. 44)

®

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MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10.

T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. Tue– Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am– 6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 26 Oct: Radically Modern, the first-ever comprehensive exhibition on Berlin’s architectural heritage and urban development. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie. de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art. To Jan 1: Expressiveness in Art. The Crucifixion by the Master of Meßkirch from the Würth Collection features 30 historical works from the Kunsthammer Würth, the historical “cabinet of art” from one of Germany’s most renowned private collections. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

C/O Berlin

Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 8 Nov: STADT/BILD. Xenopolis is one of four in a series of Berlin Art Week exhibits that examines various aspects of the city, and extends after Art Week is over. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle. de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including

A Master Of Classic Modernism Although unanimously regarded as one of the founders of modern abstract painting, Piet Mondrian started out in the Impressionist style of the Hague School, with his work being exhibited alongside now-legendary artists such as Cézanne and Picasso. After moving to Paris in 1912, Mondrian, increasingly influenced by Cubism, started to place greater emphasis on structure and organization, favoring bold lines and the simplification of landscapes and natural motifs into abstraction. Piet Mondrian. The Line, showing at the Martin-Gropius-Bau (p. 42), follows the artistic beginnings and subsequent style developments of the iconic master of classic modernism.

Until 6 Dec. Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Hamburger Bahnhof CL904The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 11 Oct: Two by Two. First joint exhibition of New York-based post-Abstract Expressionists Mary Heilmann and David Reed.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun

10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de.

Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. From 22 Nov: Extended Reality features thought-provoking works by Polish conceptual artist Alicja Kwade. Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5.

© Gemeentemuseum Den Haag, Netherlands

MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 1 Nov: Rudi Meisel. Compatriots 1977-1987 Two Germanys. The underlying similarities between the then-firmly established East and the West are documented in Meisel’s inquisitive photography.

To 1 Nov: Eyes Wide Open! highlights more than 300 works by renowned Leica photographers and how the Leica influenced 20th-century photography.

Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org.

Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

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www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30.

T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmut-newton.de. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3.

T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, themed workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr.

70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Sammlung Boros No more than 12 guests at a time can visit this former Nazi-bunker-turned-art-gallery. Open by appointment only (book online). €12/6. www.sammlung-boros.de. Reinhardtstr. 20.

T: 030.27594065. S+U Friedrichstraße. E2/E3

Commercial Galleries Galerie Deschler, 31 Oct–5 Dec: Tony Conway, Manuel Knapp: Layers. Auguststr. 61. www.deschler-berlin.de. Galerie Gerken, 23 Oct–3 Dec: Norbert Stockhus, Nanako Shikata.

Painting and sculpture. Linienstr. 217. www.galerie-gerken.de. Galerie Robert Morat | Showroom Berlin, 2 Oct–27 Nov: Christian Patterson: Bottom of the Lake. Photography. Linienstr.

107. www.robertmorat.de. Michael Reid Berlin, 14 Oct–28 Nov: Wendy Sharpe. Painting. Ackerstr.

163. www.michaelreid.com.au. Werkstattgalerie, 23 Oct–21 Nov: Petras Lincevicius, Pierre Jouve.

Painting and photography. Eisenacher Str. 6. www.werkstattgalerie.org.

Mi – Mo 10 – 19 Uhr Di geschlossen Eintritt frei bis 16 Jahre

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DINING

The Tastes Of A Nation

W

hen in Rome, they say, do as the Romans do. And of course, when in Germany, one should eat as the Germans do. With this month’s celebrations of the 25th anniversary of German reunification, it’s the perfect time to pay homage to the country’s rich heritage – and what better way to do so than by eating your way through its culinary diversity?

Start local at Max und Moritz (Oranienstr.

162, www.maxundmoritzberlin.de), a piece of Berlin drinking history in the middle of Kreuzberg. Named after a classic children’s book, the pub opened in 1902 and has managed to preserve much of its original interior, such as wood-paneled walls and beautiful tiles. Befitting the old-timey feel, the menu focuses on classic Berliner dishes like Hoppelpoppel, a meat-and-potatoes

hash, and Eisbein, roasted pork knuckle with sauerkraut.

Old maps line the walls at cozy Marjellchen (Mommsenstr. 9, www. marjellchen-berlin.de), which specializes in the cuisine of northeastern Mecklenburg and Pomerania, plus traditional dishes from the eastern reaches of Prussia, land that now belongs to Poland and Russia.

Ostpreußische delicacies include smoked eel with potatoes or the widely loved Königsberger Klopse, meatballs in a caper sauce.

Head to the southwest reaches of the German border at Kurpfalz Weinstuben (Wilmersdorfer Str. 93, www.kurpfalzweinstuben.de), a quaint wine bar specializing in the Palatinate region. If Saumagen – stuffed pig’s stomach, a kind of

German haggis – doesn’t appeal, try the Flammkuchen, a pizza-like dish that uses crème fraîche in lieu of tomato sauce. The perfect pairing to your meal is made simple with the restaurant's selection of more than 40 regional wines.

The southern states of BadenWürttemberg and Bavaria are home to some of the most well-known German delicacies, like Spätzle noodles, goulash, schnitzel, or Maultaschen, the last being akin to big, overstuffed ravioli. Good spots to get your feast on are Spätzle & Knödel (Wühlischstr. 20, www.spaetzleknoedel.de) or Schwarzwaldstuben (Tucholskystr. 48, www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com).

Capping off the meal with Kaiserschmarrn, shredded pancakes with fruit sauce, is a must.

Saumagen: Courtesy of Kurpfulz; Dining Room: Courtesy of Max und Moritz; Flammkuchen: © Thinkstock.

It’s been 25 years since East and West Germany reunited, but the culinary variety of the country remains as vibrant as ever. Hilda Hoy dined her way through practically every corner of the nation.

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DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING 5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€–€€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco. com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

That’s the way … … we like it. Fresh draught beer, pretzels and pork knuckle.

Maximilians – the German way.

Friedrichstr. 185, direct – Stadtmitte. www.maximiliansberlin.de

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234.

S Potsdamer Platz. D3

First Floor Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45.

T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, L, D. www.fischersfritzberlin.com.

Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363.

U Französische Straße. E3

Frühsammers Sonja Frühsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. €€€. Thu– Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammers-restaurant. de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030. 89738628.

S Hohenzollerndamm. A5

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank has built himself a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Vegetarian options available. Warm, wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio for the warmer months. €€€. Wed– Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-LinckeUfer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Hugos

Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com

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DINING Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine.

Its reputation as one of Berlin’s go-to gourmet destinations is well earned. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapester Str. 2. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Les Solistes Refined yet bold top-notch dining has brought this restaurant in the Waldorf Astoria widespread renown. Under the leadership of star chef Pierre Gagnaire, the menu has clear French influences while daring to incorporate flavors from India, the Middle East, and further afield. €€€€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.waldorfastoriaberlin. com. Hardenbergstr. 28. T: 030.8140000. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, and the masterful hand of chef Hendrik Otto is evident in every taste. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www. lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77.

T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal

Skykitchen

The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13.

T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Part of the andel’s Hotel, a.choice brings a welcome touch of luxury to the Lichtenberg district and was accordingly crowned with a Michelin star in 2014. Try chef Alexander Koppe’s four-course “From Berlin to the Sea” regional menu for modern takes on traditional favorites. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.vi-hotels.com. Landsberger Allee 106.

T: 030.4530532620. S Landsberger Allee. H2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu.

Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue– Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4

Vau Managing to be both luxurious and minimalist at the same time, the Michelin-starred Vau is one of the highest caliber restaurants in the city.

Headed by star chef Kolja Kleeberg, who has since expanded upon his fame with a TV cooking show, the Vau kitchen combines the best of French and German culinary traditions. €€€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.vau-berlin.de. Jägerstr. 54–55.

T: 030.2029730. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23.

T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Glass

With its star-studded pedigree, Dóttir was slated for success even before it officially opened its doors this spring. The hip Nordic hotspot is the latest project from Stephan Landwehr and Boris Radczun, the restaurateurs behind both Michelinstarred Pauly Saal as well as Grill Royal, the upscale steakhouse that’s a renowned celebrity favorite. The culinary mastermind in the Dóttir kitchen is chef Victoria Eliasdóttir, who creates minimalist yet bold dishes that pay homage to her culinary roots in Iceland and Sweden. Even at the age of 27, Eliasdóttir’s dishes are confident and creatively inspired, due perhaps in part to a strong artistic upbringing – halfbrother Olafur Eliasson is one of the stars of Berlin’s art scene. The menu changes weekly to take advantage of the season's freshest produce, with a strong emphasis on fish, like Atlantic halibut and cod delivered straight from the Baltic Sea. Look forward to dishes like marinated trout roe with pickled onions and garden cress or crispy-skinned cod fillet with pureed parsley root, and savor a taste of the North.

Mittelstr. 41. T: 030 330060760. www.dottirberlin.com.

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6.

T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

© STEFAN KORTE

Northern Exposure

Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195.

T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

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Greet The Great Pumpkin When it comes to seasonal foods, Germans tend to be rather enthusiastic. Once they’ve had their fill of white asparagus in spring, the populace sets its culinary sights on strawberries, then chanterelles, followed by Kürbis (pumpkin). Hard to find at other times of the year, pumpkins spring up in a wide array of varieties – and, subsequently, dishes – once the leaves begin to turn.

Restaurants offer pumpkin menus, featuring Kürbissuppe (soup), Kürbisauflauf (casserole), risotto, and even sausages with pickled pumpkin slices. German bakeries add Kürbisbrot (pumpkin bread) to their selection, and on 3 and 4 October, the picturesque Schöneberg neighborhood of Akazienkiez (U Eisenacher Straße) closes its main road to host a festival in the gourd's honor, with amazing displays of old-fashioned heirloom varieties and pumpkin wine to sample.

Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features

Hasir

German/Austrian. With a crisply white interior

modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine.

Housed in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters, designed for sharing, tempts as much as do the sumptuous main dishes and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41.

T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

reminiscent of snow-capped Alpine peaks, Schneeweiss serves upscale takes on traditional Austrian cuisine, such as schnitzel and goulash with Serviettenknödel dumplings. Rotating seasonal offerings. €€. Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun B, L, D. www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Simplonstr. 16.

T: 030.29049704. S+U Warschauer Straße. H3

Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city.

The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr.

10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Transit

Jolesch

Zwölf Apostel

Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. When in Mitte, try their second location at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28.

T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map

Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. Religious influences aside, the thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items.

Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49.

T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRIEDRICHSHAIN Matreshka © THINKSTOCK.

Schneeweiss

Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style

KREUZBERG Brauhaus Südstern German. The Brauhaus Südstern is part brewery, part restaurant, part beer school – brewing courses are offered on site. Dine on hefty German specialties like beer goulash and blood sausage in the midst of enormous brewing kettles. The house-brewed beer is, of course, a must-try. €.

Mon–Sat D, Sun B, L, D. www.brauhaus-suedstern. de. Hasenheide 69. T: 030.69001624. U Südstern. F5

Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1.

T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess. com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

Restaurant Richard French/Swiss. The nondescript street belies the

www.wheretraveler.com 49

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DINING Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie famously dined here.

Reservations a must. €€–€€€. Daily D. www.bandolsurmer.de. Torstr. 167.

T: 030.67302051. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant – down a concrete back alley and up graffitied stairs. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to the mastery of celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55.

T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Crackers

Wonder Of Wonders Hip, buzzing Berlin has been drawing comparisons with hip, buzzing Brooklyn for years, so it was only natural that a popular Williamsburg, Brooklyn, brunch spot should choose the German capital as the site of its second location, which opened late last year. House of Small Wonder’s outpost in the heart of Mitte is a lovely, light-flooded space filled with warm wood and lush plants that you’ll want to linger long in and is reached via a curving staircase that’s so popular on social media platform Instagram that it’s been dubbed the most photographed staircase in Berlin.

The menu is an unlikely yet delicious hybrid of Japanese, American, and European cuisines – with a delicious dash of Tex-Mex. (Okinawan taco rice, anyone?) Some of the more classic options include French toast made with home-baked croissant or homemade granola with Greek yogurt, while the more culinarily adventurous might go for the Japanese pork curry or inari, delicate tofu and rice pouches paired with a bowl of miso soup. Whatever you order, the vibrant matcha green tea latte is a must-try.

Johannisstr. 20. T: 030 27582877. www.houseofsmallwonder.de.

Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de.

Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kotbusser Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21.

T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

Mitte AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de.

Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3

Dóttir Scandinavian. After Dóttir opened in the spring of 2015, chef Victoria Eliasdóttir quickly became known as something of a prodigy. The confident and very talented 20-something Icelandic chef creates minimalist yet potently delicious Nordic cuisine, with an emphasis on the freshest seafood available. €€€.

Tue–Sat D. www.dottirberlin.de. Mittelstr. 40.

T: 030.330060760. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Dudu Asian Creative. This trendy spot (whose name means "papaya" in Vietnamese) just off busy Rosenthaler Platz has earned many fans with its modern, fresh pan-Asian cuisine. Inventive fusion-type sushi is a mainstay of the menu, plus noodle and rice bowls that take advantage of Asian seasoning. The daily lunch combos are very popular. €€. Daily L&D. www.dudu-berlin.de. Torstr. 134.

T: 030.51736854. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of

Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters.

There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent.

Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com.

Friedrichstr. 105b.

German bread is among T: 030.28879288. S the best in the world, Friedrichstraße. E3 and there are some 600

Did you know?

varieties from which to choose.

Bandol sur Mer French. This tiny, hip, and very trendy French restaurant deserves accolades for its food, though part of its popularity is no doubt due to the fact that

House of Small Wonder American Fusion. The Berlin outpost of

Brooklyn favorite. An unlikely yet delicious hybrid of Japanese, American, and European cuisines – with a delicious dash of Tex-Mex. Okinawan taco rice, anyone? www.houseofsmallwonder.de. Johannisstr. 20.

T: 030.27582877. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

© stefan kühne

splendor of Richard’s gourmet creations and interior, which includes carved wooden ceilings and stained-glass. The 19th-century architecture gets a modern boost from the décor. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.restaurant-richard.de. Köpenicker Str. 174.

T: 030.49207242. U Schlesisches Tor. G4

German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158.

T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3

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DINING

German. The Reichstag is much more than a sightseeing destination. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination.

Located on the roof of the Reichstag building, the restaurant boasts splendid views in addition to the refined, modern German cuisine. Reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22.

T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy

After launching several successful dining establishments in his homeland, Catalan culinary maestro Paco Pérez earned yet another Michelin star for his Berlin restaurant, which serves inventive seafood dishes. For those who can never decide what to order, Cinco (p. 47), his restaurant located in the Das Stue Hotel, offers tasting menus that have been known to have as many as 30 courses.

Raue has done it again. Sra Bua, in the Hotel Adlon, is his latest restaurant to show off his love for the cuisines of Asia. Guests can expect only the highest caliber Thai and Japanese cooking, and the Raue specialty: curries that are refined yet exploding with flavor. €€€. Tue–Sat D. www.srabua-adlon.de. Behrenstr. 72. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Prenzlauer Berg I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12.

T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek

Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr.

185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54.

T: 030.66408710. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Sra Bua

Turkish. This quirky, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, with the look and feel of a fish market, serves fresh

Thai/Japanese. Berlin’s homegrown star chef Tim

Tiergarten Balikci Ergün

seafood the traditional Turkish way. Whole fried sardines and grilled fillets of the catch of the day are served simply with lush salads, lemon wedges, and warm Turkish bread. €€. Daily D. Lüneburger Str. 382.

T: 030.3975737. S Bellevue. D3

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2.

T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Café Einstein Stammhaus German/Austrian. The 1878 villa housing this Viennese-style coffee house makes for a lovely spot for a meal or to while away the afternoon with a coffee and something to read. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeeinstein.com. Kurfürstenstr. 58.

T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Paris-Moskau International. This rustic house, built in 1898

and lucky to survive two World Wars, was a pub and a Russian restaurant in two of its many past lives. Today, it’s a fine restaurant that seamlessly incorporates French, Russian, and German culinary influences. €€€. Daily D. www.paris-moskau.de. AltMoabit 141. T: 030.3942081. S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3

Courtesy of Das Stue Hotel

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag

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ENTERTAINMENT

Dance Of Ages courtesy of Clärchens Ballhaus

A secret ballroom-dance enthusiast, Serene Tseng swung over to Clärchens Ballhaus to start off her week on the right foot.

T

ake a quickstep into the whirlwind past of ballroom dance at historical Clärchens Ballhaus (p. 60), where every night is a night for dancing. Opened just over 100 years ago in 1913, the dancehall is a prime example of Berlin during the Gründerzeit, or the Wilheminian Era. Although details of the Ballhaus’s origins are fuzzy, the institution has withstood two world wars and a Cold War, not to mention numerous dance and music trends that saw the demise of rival dancehalls.

Much of the Ballhaus, especially the Mirror

Hall (Spiegelsaal), with its huge mirrored walls and reliefs, is largely untouched from its unrenovated, post-WWII condition.

Nowadays, ballroom-dance enthusiasts of all ages flock to Clärchens, which offers a regular schedule of dance forms: Monday sees the week start out with some spicy salsa, Tuesdays take on tango, hump day offers energetic swing, Thursdays cha-cha, and Fridays and Saturdays cap it all off with “Schwoof” – hits from the past and present played by DJs and a live band. Should you want a technique brush-

up before hitting the dance floor, Clärchens Ballhaus offers lessons every night in the Mirror Hall, which also hosts private events and dinners.

Special dance events such as tango nights and Sunday concerts are scheduled on an irregular basis and can crop up unexpectedly, so be sure to check the website for announcements.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Violetta Live Following in the footsteps of previous teenage divas such as Miley Cyrus and Selena Gomez, Argentinian actress Martina Stoessel has risen to international fame, thanks to the success of her blockbuster Disney telenovela, Violetta.

On the TV show, Stoessel plays the titular teenager, a musical prodigy who returns to Buenos Aires with her father after living in Europe. On 13 October, the international tour brings the entire cast to Mercedes-Benz Arena (p. 56), where Stoessel (as Violetta) performs the songs that made her famous, with the help of a talented cast of dancers and backup singers. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

BALLET & OPERA Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 8, 10, 30 Oct: The Marriage Of Figaro (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr.

35. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper

Theatre with English surtitles *A Piece of Plastic

by Marius von Mayenburg Direction: Marius von Mayenburg On October 5, 8 pm Hamlet

by William Shakespeare Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On October 11, 7.30 pm NEVER FOREVER

by Falk Richter and TOTAL BRUTAL Text and Direction: Falk Richter On October 20, 8 pm Richard III.

by William Shakespeare Direction: Thomas Ostermeier On October 30 and 31, 7.30 pm Schaubühne am Lehniner Platz Tickets: 030 890023 www.schaubuehne.de

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 8, 10, 23, 30 Oct: West Side Story. www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr.

55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company performs at various locations. www.staatsballett-berlin.de.

T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres.

8, 10, 25 Oct: Onegin (Tchaikovsky). www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140.

U Deutsche Oper. B3

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Berliner Dom

Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

8–11 Oct: The Musicians of Bremen. 18 Oct: ECHO Klassik Awards. Accompanied by puppets. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt.

T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other acclaimed ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 3, 6-10, 12-16 Oct: Berliner Philharmoniker, cond. Rattle – Beethoven. 4 Oct: Cameron Carpenter. 10, 16 Oct: Berliner Philharmoniker: Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1.

T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Ticket hotline: 030.20298715.

Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

DANCE & EXPERIMENTAL SPACES

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie

Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. www.dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden***** Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map

Part of the Philharmonie, this additional concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Dock 11 Studios & Eden*****

© DISNEY

We’ll lock 200 people in a theatre and they have to watch it.*

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HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) This confluence of culture is renowned for its cutting-edge shows and hip performances. www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32.

T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18.

T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

on this month Plays & Musicals Beyond The Horizon Theater am Potsdamer Platz (p. 57), all month

Blue Man Group Bluemax Theatre (p. 57), all month

Cirque du Soleil 8-11 Oct. (p. 6)

Chicago: THe Musical From 11 Oct, Stage Theater des Westens (p. 57)

StarMan 13, 17, 18 Oct, Tipi am Kanzleramt (p. 57)

Stars In Concert All month, Estrel Festival Center (p. 56)

West Side Story 8, 10, 23, 30 Oct, Komische Oper (p. 54)

The Wyld All month, Friedrichstadt-Palast (p. 57)

Ballet & Classical Cameron Carpenter 4 Oct, Philharmonie (p. 54)

The Marriage of FIGARO (Mozart)

Odeon

8, 10, 30 Oct, Deutsche Oper (p. 54)

This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and popular new releases. www.yorck.de. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019.

U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

The Musicians of Bremen

Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale film festival offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de.

Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Rock, Pop, Jazz, World A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105.

T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena The enormous former bus depot now presents events as diverse as rap concerts and roller derby and features a cocktail lounge and the Badeschiff, a heated swimming pool floating on the Spree River. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030.

S Treptower Park, U Schlesisches Tor. G4

B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night, while Wednesdays offer free jam sessions. www.b-flat-berlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 13.

T: 030.2833123. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

8-11 Oct, Konzerthaus (p. 54)

Onegin (Tchaikovsky) 8, 10, 25 Oct, Staatsballett at Schiller Theater (p. 54)

BerlinEr philharmoniker: Beethoven’s ninth Symphony 10, 16 Oct, Philharmonie (p. 54)

Pop, Rock & Jazz Crosby, Stills & Nash 7 Oct, Tempodrom (p. 56)

Bob Dylan 13-14 Oct, Tempodrom (p. 56)

Major Lazer 10 Oct, Columbihalle (p. 56)

Public Image Limited 15 Oct, Columbihalle (p. 56)

Diana Krall 19 Oct, Tempodrom (p. 56)

Marianne Faithfull 19 Oct, Admiralspalast (p. 56)

Fall Out Boy 21 Oct, Columbiahalle (p. 56)

The Sisters of Mercy 22 Oct, Columbiahalle (p. 56)

Dave Matthews Band 27 Oct, Columbiahalle (p. 56)

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Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28.

T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle 8 Oct: Major Lazer. 15 Oct: Public Image Limited.

21 Oct: Fall Out Boy. 22 Oct: The Sisters of Mercy.

27 Oct: Dave Matthews Band.

www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21.

T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat at 8:30pm, Sun at 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Kulturbrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as an überpopular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36.

T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

Hundreds of listings every month

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr.

12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Quasimodo One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. Concerts are held in the cellar, drinks served in upstairs. www.quasimodo.de.

Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190.

T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 7 Oct: Crosby, Stills & Nash. 12–14 Oct: Bob Dylan. 19 Oct: Diana Krall. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr.

10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4 IMAGE © THINKSTOCK

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Admiralspalast ®

Berlin

One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 19 Oct: Marianne Faithfull. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. oT: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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ENTERTAINMENT Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. Call for info. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de.

Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582.

U Spichernstraße. C4

Bimah, The Jewish Theater Most shows are in German, but frequent Yiddish song performances appear on the roster. www. juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr. 101.

T: 030.2511096. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bluemax Theater

except Monday. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. 6 Oct: Piano Battle: Andreas Kern & Paul Cibis. 7-8 Oct: Basta, a cappella. 13, 17, 18 Oct: Starman, a David Bowieinspired musical starring Sven Ratzke. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee.

T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3

The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Daily shows, except Monday. www.stage-entertainment.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions, and variety shows at this 1920 theater.

All month: The Wyld, a Las Vegas-style production featuring dance and light shows. Shows every day except Monday. www.palast-berlin.eu. Friedrichstr.

107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107.

Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center offers plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr.

227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Wintergarten Varieté Mirrored walls, red velvet, and a starry-sky ceiling define this sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudevilleinspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96.

T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

04. NOV 15 Wednesday / 8 PM

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Wunderkammer. www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Inside the Hackeschen Höfen, Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590.

S Hackescher Markt. E2

Volksbühne

05. NOV 15 Thursday / 8 PM PHILHARMONIE BERLIN

GIUSEPPE

VERDI

„Messa da Requiem“ MAREK JANOWSKI conductor

HULKAR SABIROVA

Schaubühne

soprano

A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions, many of which with English surtitles. www.schaubuehne.de.

Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

MARINA PRUDENSKAYA

Sternbergtheater

GÜNTHER GROISSBÖCK

mezzo-soprano

STEFANO SECCO tenor bass

Twice a week, this theater inside the Spielbank Berlin hosts comedian Karsten Kaie’s hilarious English-language show How To Become A Berliner In One Hour? Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. www.sternbergberlin.de. Toll number: 01806.570070. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

RUNDFUNKCHOR BERLIN GIJS LEENAARS chorus master

6.45 pm pre-concert talk Südfoyer, introduction by Steffen Georgi

Theater am Potsdamer Platz The 1800-seat theater designed by Renzo Piano features musicals and international performances.

All month: Beyond the Horizon, musical (German with English surtitles) about the fall of the Wall. Shows daily except Monday. www.stage-entertainment. de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

in cooperation with

broadcasted by

Theater des Westens One of Berlin’s most popular musical and operetta theaters. From 11 Oct: Chicago: The Musical. The Tony- and Oscar-winning play returns. All month: Ich War Noch Niemals in New York, musical comedy (in German) with 20 hits by Udo Jürgens, one of the country’s all-time greatest pop stars. Shows daily

an ensemble of

Tickets +49 (0) 30 202 987-15 tickets@rsb-online.de www.rsb-online.de

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NIGHTLIFE

Best Of Both Worlds Top: Courtesy of Crème de la Crème; Inset: Courtesy of Crackers, © Daniel Reiter.

Eat, dance, and be merry. Berlin is home to a number of multitasking locales where nightlife and dining seamlessly meet, Hilda Hoy discovered.

T

he best nights out are those when everything comes together effortlessly, leaving nothing to concern yourself with besides having a good time and enjoying the company of friends. Berlin’s restaurant-club hybrids make it easy, bringing dinner, DJ, and dancing together under one (fashionable) roof.

One such venue, a hideaway under a train overpass in Mitte, is nearly hidden behind an unmarked door. With a chicly monochromatic interior and an equally chic-looking crowd, Tausend (p. 60) houses both its Cantina restaurant and its bar under the same roof. Enjoy the newly relaunched dining concept, a blend of high-end Asian fusion created in collaboration with the Dae Mon restaurant, then move over to the bar for

one (or a few) of Tausend’s famously good cocktails and DJ sets of smooth disco-house.

Heinz Gindullis, better known as “Cookie,” was the man behind the club Cookies, one of the greats on Berlin’s party scene for two decades. Last fall, however, Cookies closed and reopened as Crackers (p. 50), a dining hotspot that hasn’t let go of its clubbing past. Super-chic décor is paired with great food – Cookie is, after all, also owner of successful restaurants Cookies Cream (p. 50) and Chipps. Add a fantastic

bar and DJ nights four times a week from 9pm until late and you’ve got the makings of a very good night indeed.

The newest addition to the restaurant-club scene is Mitte's Crème de la Crème (Friedrichstr. 113, www.creme-berlin. com), which just opened in March.

Kick off a night to remember with some oysters, ceviche, veal ribs, or truffle ravioli.

After the well-heeled crowd is well fed, the party gets underway around midnight and lasts until the wee morning hours. www.wheretraveler.com 59

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NIGHTLIFE Beer Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm) www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2.

T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Dicke Wirtin

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and comforting cuisine, seasonal specialties, and, of course, lots of beer. Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug The "beer garden in the Tiergarten" serves German specialties that complement your brew, including a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-Breslau-Str. 1.

T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Clubs

Cocktail Perfection Ask one of Redwood’s many regulars what keeps them coming back and you’ll get a variety of answers. Some will say it’s because the Mitte bar is the only place in Berlin where they can get Californian beers Anchor Steam and Sierra Nevada. Others will laud the staff’s customer service and mastery of mixology. You’ll even get a few who simply enjoy the smoke-free atmosphere — a rarity in the Berlin bar scene. But all will agree on one fact: The mixed drinks are pure perfection. In addition to the cocktail classics, the regularly changing drink menu offers such creative concoctions as the Märkisch Julep (bourbon, honey, and fresh local fruit) and the June Bug (a refreshing chilled mixture of gin, lime, green chartreuse, plums, and berries). Choose from selections on the ingeniously designed menu — a matrix of liquors and palate preferences that’s bound to be imitated in bars both in Berlin and abroad — or simply ask the staff to pick a new poison for you. Bergstr. 25. www.redwoodbar.de

drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com.

Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

www.lecrocobleu.com. Prenzlauer Allee 242.

T: 151.58247804. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Die Weinerei

Reingold

Two euros will get you a glass, which you can fill as many times as you want. Before you leave, leave as much money as you think your evening was worth.

Mon–Fri 1–8pm, Sat 11am–8pm. www.weinerei.com. Veteranenstr. 14.

T: 030.4406983. U Rosenthaler Platz. F2

A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from funk to R&B. Tue– Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11.

T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50.

T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Named after an Italian soccer star, this intimate bar underneath the S-Bahn tracks has a central ovalshaped bar and benches along the walls. Outdoor seating in summer. Daily from 6pm. www.riva-berlin.de. S-Bahnbogen 142.

T: 030.24722688. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3

Harry’s New York Bar

Schwarzes Café

Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. Salsa Monday, tango Tuesday, swing Wednesday, cha cha Thursday, live Tanzkapelle Fri–Sat. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals any time of night. Lovely garden in summer. 24h except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de.

Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038.

U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

The Roses Berlin

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat and rooftop terrace in summer.

9am–1am. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37.

T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Tausend

Le Croco Bleu

Top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Daily 6:30pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102.

T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

40 Seconds A modern and trendy rooftop club frequented by international stars and urban jetsetters. R&B and soul on Fri, house on Sat. Casual smart/elegant dress code. www.40seconds.de. Potsdamer Str. 58.

T: 030.8906420. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

Berghain/Panorama Bar The club of choice for techno lovers is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultra-selected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Dress code strictly casual.

Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. T: 030.29360210.

S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus

Kitsch is the word at this fun gay- and straightfriendly Kreuzberg bar. Cheap drinks. Daily from 9pm. Oranienstr. 187. T: 030.6156570. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Wine & Cocktails Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden next to a Mitte police station.

Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great

LaBanca

Expert bar staff puts great care into each of the elaborate, oftentimes inventive drinks they make, and creative presentation makes the drinking experience even more memorable.

Riva Bar

Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.

Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Victoria Bar

Courtesy of Redwood

A Charlottenburg institution, this old-fashioned Berliner Kneipe restaurant serves great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952.

S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

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ESSENTIALS Useful Information

Berlin

T DA

IO

O N CI E R G E S

Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

PC

ADVICE

Emergency numbers

TO

RECO M M EN

EXPERT NS

F R O M B E R LI

N’

S

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes Museum Berlin Pass: allows three days of unlimited access to major museums. www.visitberlin.de Berlin Welcome Card: public transport for three days and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. www.visitberlin.de City Tour Card: as above, but conditions vary, so best to check which is most suitable for you. www.citytourcard.com

Berlin Airports Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

Ask The Concierge Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Sebastian Sonnemann, head concierge at the Titanic Deluxe Hotel, is here to help. www.lcdg.org Describe your perfect Berlin day.

There would be a lot of sunshine, of course.

I’d start with breakfast on Olivaer Platz, followed by a stroll along the Ku’Damm with a midday stop in KaDeWe. In the afternoon, I’d take a boat tour on the Spree River, followed by a drink at one of the great riverside beach bars. Dinner would be at the Filou restaurant.

When friends come to visit, where do you take them?

There are so many options, but I’d start with the highlights, like the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, and the remaining parts of the Berlin Wall.

Any secret Berlin tips?

The former Tempelhof Airport, which is now a park – a mysterious place with many interesting stories behind it.

Courtesy of Titanic Deluxe Hotel

Sum up Berlin in a few words.

Cool and multi-cultural.

Which events would you recommend this month?

The Festival of Lights, which uses light installations to put landmarks, streets, trendy neighborhoods, and interesting sites from Berlin’s history at center stage.

What do you like to do after work?

Enjoy Berlin and its urban life outdoors.

Tell us something about your hotel.

Titanic Deluxe stands for classic luxury. The former costume storehouse of the Staatsoper was used by the director of the royal theater after 1838. The rich history of the location is reflected in the design of the rooms, the stunning ballroom, and the guest areas.

What’s one of the wildest experiences you’ve had as a concierge?

Finding someone a butler during the ITB trade expo. Thankfully, through the connections of The Society of the Golden Keys in Germany, I was able to book one from Hamburg.

What’s one of the coziest spots in the city?

In the Beef Club restaurant here at the Titanic Deluxe Hotel, of course.

A German culinary specialty our readers should try?

In Berlin and Brandenburg, definitely Königsberger Klopse, meatballs in a white sauce with capers.

What sets Berlin apart from other big cities?

Berlin always stays fresh, new, and interesting every day.

Which spot would you recommend for romance?

Viktoriapark in Kreuzberg. In the evenings, it’s very romantic by the hillside waterfall.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins.

Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

Getting Around Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you www.wheretraveler.com 61

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ESSENTIALS can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.60. Day tickets cost €6.90 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €16.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €29.50.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel

Built in the early 1880s in a neo-Renaissance style, the S-Bahn Hackescher Markt station has been renamed no less than three times throughout its existence before the current name was agreed upon. The area around the station is now known as a dining and nightlife hub. of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

detailed and comprehensive knowledge of the local market. www.realestate.bnpparibas.de.

Neues Kranzler Eck. Kurfürstendamm 22.

T: 030.884650. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Engel & Voelkers

Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Real Estate Agencies

Rent A Bike

Allianz

Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations.

Offers select properties and is developing a number of building projects in various areas of Berlin. www.allianz-realestate.com.

Joachimstalerstr. 10-12. T: 030.212343562.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Architects, economists, certified real estate agents, and apprentices serve international clients and provide real estate services, building project planning, and supervision, as well as analyses and market reports. www.guthmann-estate.com.

Blücherstr. 22. T: 030.69004240.

U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Berlin Capital Investments

HIHC Horvat

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de.

T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.

Toll number: 0180.6003690

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

Money Services Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

T: 030.8904370.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a "tax-free form" when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date

Ad Hoc Immobilien Specializes in Berlin and Brandenburg real estate sales. Apartments, entire buildings, villas, and more. www.adhoc-immo.de. Hohe Allee 36, 15366 Neuenhagen bei Berlin. T: 03342.259560. Off Map

One of the world’s leading service companies in the provision of high-quality residential and commercial real estate and yachts in the premium segment. www.engelvoelkers.com. Bleibtreustr.

34-35. T: 030.88001188. S Savignyplatz. B4

Guthmann Estate

Specializes in apartment sales in central Berlin for both investment and self-use. Visit website to search for small units, big apartments, or penthouses in Berlin’s most popular neighborhoods. www.berlin-capital.com.

T: 030.52009700.

This real estate service agency will analyze clients’ housing needs and find an apartment to buy or rent on their behalf. HICH Horvat also offers relocation services for expats and international clients. www.hihc.de. Olympische Str. 1.

T: 030.33099930. U Neu Westend. Off Map

Berlin Hyp Immobilien

Virtu - Finest Real Estate

Helps clients better understand the German real estate market and offers a wide range of commercial properties, from office buildings to industrial estates to shops. www.berlinhyp-immobilien.de. Budapester Str. 1.

T: 030.25999908. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Experts in the field of real estate, law, and economics joined to set new standards in the field of real estate marketing and consulting in Germany. www.virtu.com.de/en/. Jägerstr. 58-60.

T: 030.20679590. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlin Yield Estate Residential and commercial buildings in Berlin. www.berlinyieldestate.com. Unter den Linden 16.

T: 030.68324467. U Französische Straße. E3

Berlinmaegleren Covers a wide range of property types, from villas to apartments, and also offers rental services.

Second branch in Prenzlauer Berg. www.berlinmaegleren.de. Rankestr. 30.

T: 030.61202398. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

BNP Paribas Real Estate With its own subsidiaries and a close-knit network, this real estate agency is present nationwide.

Covers all relevant real estate markets and ensures

Your Place Berlin These real estate agents and mediators offer personalized services and free consultations, promising to negotiate better deals for their clients. They specialize in clients who live abroad, offering to perform all research and to visit the apartments before the client’s arrival. www. yourplaceberlin.com. Willibald-Alexis-Str. 2.

T: 030.53064083. U Gneisenaustraße. E5

Ziegert Immobilien Has a large portfolio of apartments in all of Berlin’s neighborhoods and helps clients understand the German real estate market, offering advice on investment possibilities. www.ziegert-immobilien. de. Schlüterstr. 54. T: 030.88035350.

S Savignyplatz. B4

© Thinkstock

The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

62 W H E R E B E R L I n I O C TO B E R 2015

WB OCT 2015 12 ESSENTIALS 4.indd 62

11/09/2015 14:49

TRANSPORT MAP

BVG licence number: bvg-0079.13, 4 May 2015.

ESSENTIALS

www.wheretraveler.com 63

WB OCT 2015 12 ESSENTIALS 4.indd 63

11/09/2015 14:49

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11/09/2015 10:54

U

[ WHERE IN BERLIN]

My Perfect Day What is one flavor story people can try at your bar?

I’m really into the tastes of sweet and salty.

I like to work with experimental ingredients like sesame oil and peanut butter, flavors that will be surprising. I make a drink at Jigger, Beaker & Glass (Gärtnerstr. 15) called the Gomashio Pirate with sesame-oil rum, sake, stout beer syrup, wasabi, and lime.

Victoria Bar

How has Berlin’s bar scene changed in recent years?

The bar scene has changed dramatically.

After Stagger Lee opened in 2010, they really started the modern mixology trend.

Before that, there were a few good bars, like Würgeengel, Green Door (p. 60), and Victoria Bar (p. 60). But most started about two years ago, like Buck & Breck (p. 60), Redwood (p.

60), Schwarze Traube (Wrangelstr. 24), and John Muir (p. Skalitzerstr. 50). Right now, Berlin is still doing classics and twists on classics. But I’m really into the experimental stuff. There’s still this idea in Berlin of having things be cheap, and that slows things down. But it’s getting there.

When you go out, which bars are your favorites?

The manager at Redwood is a friend of mine and I think he’s a really, really good host. I like TiER (Weserstr. 42) for the atmosphere, but only when it’s really late, like 3am, because otherwise it’s too crowded. I go to Buck & Breck from time to time because there’s something about the atmosphere that’s really unique.

What about eating out?

I ate at Shiso Burger (Auguststr. 29c,

Yannick Marty [Bartender & Artist]

Bartender Yannick Marty sees every drink he makes as a work of art. Since moving to Berlin three years ago from his native France, he’s established himself as one of the leading talents in the city’s burgeoning mixology scene. When not behind the bar at establishments such as the Green Door and Jigger, Beaker & Glass – a Friedrichshain bar he co-founded earlier this year – Marty can be found shooting photos and expanding his artist’s portfolio. www.ymynigris.com

What would be your perfect Berlin day?

I would start the day at the beautiful House of Small Wonder (p. 50) with a croque-madame sandwich and a really good matcha latte. If it were Sunday, I would spend the rest of the day at a club, like Teufelsberg Sisyphos (Hauptstr. 15) or Berghain (p. 60). Otherwise I’d go to Kreuzberg – I love to walk along the canal there. I also love visiting abandoned places like Teufelsberg or the

To Beef or Not to Beef

former Iraqi embassy. I’d bring a couple beers and shoot a lot of photos. That’s what I love about Berlin – the amount of possibilities. You can go to new places all the time. For dinner, I’d go to To Beef or Not to Beef (Akazienstr. 3, www.tobeefornottobeef. berlin), and after dinner, I’d go to Green Door. I always ask the bartenders what they

www.shisoburger.de) recently and really liked the Asian twist to their burgers. But my absolute favorite restaurant is Lewy in Potsdam (Dortustr. 1). It’s the best restaurant I’ve been to since I moved to Berlin.

It’s Italian with a twist, with a really good selection of cheese and wine.

Which area do you call home, and what drew you to it?

I’ve always loved Kreuzberg. It’s kind of messy and I like the chaos. It has the Turkish influence and the gay culture and this special rhythm. My favorite place would probably be the bar Roses (p. 60). You always go late and meet weird people, but the atmosphere is really special. You can do whatever and be whatever.

Green Door

recommend. One of the last things I had there was a plum grappa manhattan with an Angostura bitters sugared rim.

If Berlin were a drink, what would it be?

Something surprising and complex. Berlin is made for the tastes of many people.

VICTORIA BAR: PHOTO BY KERSTIN EHMER AND KATJA HIENDLMAYER; YANNICK MARTY: COURTESY OF YANNICK MARTY; TEUFELSBERG: © THINKSTOCK; TO BEEF OR NOT TO BEEF: COURTESY OF TO BEEF OR NOT TO BEEF; COCKTAIL: © THINKSTOCK.

What about bartending inspires you?

I’m interested in creating stories through flavors. Alcohol has this property of conserving flavors, and you can play with that, from sweet to spicy to bitter, and create a story that way. In a way, being a bartender got me back into art.

66 W H E R E B E R L I N I O C TO B E R 2015

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11/09/2015 14:52

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