Zambezi Traveller Issue 04 by Zambezi Traveller

Issue 04

TRAVELLERS FRIEND » BOTSWANA | NAMIBIA | ZAMBIA | ZIMBABWE

Tracking the Rainbow Spirit

Elephant study reveals the unguessed secrets of continental travel

INSIDE Conservation Botswana’s Makgadikgadi Pans declared an Important Bird Area

07 Festivals The Parlotones were the highlight of the 2010 Falls Fest.

09 WIN! A free Book! Submit your article and photograph and stand a chance to win a copy of the Magnificent Victoria Falls.

14 Culture

Ingonyama Dance and Drama Group

18 Discover PHOTO: KELLY LANDEN

Collar fitted... time to wake up! The second issue of Zambezi Traveller introduced readers to the work of Elephant without Borders within the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (Kaza TFCA). The TFCA is an initiative by the governments of the five countries of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe to link neighbouring protected areas

for the better management of these areas, and for improved planning of tourism development. Almost fifty percent of all African elephants occur in the Kaza TFCA study area. Nearly all of those occur south of the Zambezi River. One aim of the Kaza TFCA is to create enough “elephant friendly” space

north and west of the Zambezi so that elephant from over-populated areas of Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe can disperse into Angola and Zambia where numbers are low. For the past few years, Mike Chase and Kelly Landen of Elephant without Borders have collared elephant in Botswana and tracked

their movements. The map shows the movement of three of those collared elephant. The elephant called Rainbow Spirit was collared in the Okavango Delta. Satellite tracking has shown that Rainbow Spirit moved north through the Caprivi Strip and up the Kwando River before veering north-west into the Luiana National Park in

south-eastern Angola. A second elephant collared near Livingstone was found to have gone “walk-about” right down to the Nata area in Botswana before heading back up to the Victoria Falls area. A cow collared in Sioma Ngwezi National Park in Zambia was recorded as having crossed the Zambezi Continued on page 2

Luangwa River, welcome to hippo country, highest concentration of hippos in Africa!

Regulars Chobe 3, Okavango 7, Victoria Falls 9, Hwange 17, Visa & Park Fees 18, Lusaka 19, Luangwa 20, Livingstone 21, Events Calendar 28, Harare 29, Kariba 31, Letters 39

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Tracking the Rainbow Spirit

Kelly Landen, Mike Chase and Alan Sparrow Continued from page 1 River and travelled up the Njoko River towards the Kafue National Park. The work of Elephant without Borders is key to a better understanding of elephant management within the Kaza TFCA. Knowing what routes

the elephant are using as they move across the Zambezi helps the wildlife management agencies of the five Kaza countries to plan where to establish wildlife corridors that will connect elephant populations south of the Zambezi to those in the Kafue Park in Zambia

A Life Given to the Valley Alan Sparrow: forester, pioneering conservationist

Halsted’s Aviation Corporation

By ZT Correspondent

he Zambezi Valley has many stories of men and women that fell under its charms and spent large parts of their lives committed to preserving the unique wildlife, habitats and cultures found there. From the early explorers like David Livingstone and Thomas Baines to the modern day more quiet heroes such as Rupert Fothergill, who is renowned for his pioneering work to save the wildlife when Lake Kariba was filling, the passion is the same. Other unsung heroes include Angus van Jaarsveldt who has been in the Binga area since the sixties and is a part of the history of Lake Kariba. Future issues of Zambezi Traveller will profile some of the key players that are currently working to promote the wildlife and cultures of the Zambezi Valley. Alan Sparrow is a regular contributor to Zambezi Traveller, writing about the development of transfrontier conservation areas in the Zambezi Valley. What is it that drives a man to spend his life fighting the

Advertising Enquiries Managing Editors Frances Jackson Teddy Brightman fjackson@iwayafrica.com teddy@yoafrica.com Tel : +263 712 208 370 Tel + 263 712 217 178

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Publisher The Zambezi Traveller P O Box 183, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Printing Strand Multiprint

Editorial Submissions Zambezi Traveller welcomes editorial submissions but reserves the right to publish. Email in Word format to fjackson@iwayafrica.com

odds and trying to make the woodlands and wildlife of the Zambezi Valley secure for the future? Alan is a forester by training and has served as a ranger in the Zimbabwe National Parks service. He spent his childhood on Lone Star Ranch in the south-east lowveld of Zimbabwe, where his family was among the first to establish wildlife management as a viable land use option. After some years in the then Department of National Parks and Wildlife Management, Alan spent many years in indigenous forestry management for the Forestry Commission of Zimbabwe. The last ten years were spent in the north-west of Zimbabwe where he managed extensive areas of Kalahari sand forests in the Victoria Falls / Lake Kariba area. Alan rates these years in the valley as the best years of his working life. “If we are lucky we each get one great phase of our working lives - times when we start each day excited about what we do and where we work.” For Alan, the experience of being part of a committed team developing the Kalahari sand forests D

into viable wildlife areas was “the most rewarding time of my life;” managing numbers of men and machines to establish water and wildlife populations in extensive areas of teak woodland. Alan is currently engaged in the development of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area which will join management of forests, wildlife areas and communities in the five countries of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. This involves working as a “link man” bringing the private, public and community sectors together to agree on and implement the wider vision of transfrontier parks in the Zambezi Valley. Alan lives at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. He is one of the founder members of the Kalahari Sands Foundation which is a business-driven initiative with the aim of improving the management of forests on Kalahari sands. Alan says he “won the lottery of life” when he married Marilyn. They have two adult children, Scott and Kimberley.

isclaimer All information and points of view are of those of the people who submitted them, and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Editors. Whilst every effort has been made to ascertain the validity of the information submitted Zambezi Traveller cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies. Zambezi Traveller does not accept any liability for any advertising copy/content not received correctly. Zambezi Traveller reserves the right to refuse advertising material that does not meet its specifications or advertising standards.

Zambezi News

chobe TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River

PART 4

History of Chobe National Park Zambezi Travellers looks at another of the former residents of Serondella and his lifelong involvement with the area.

Left: KAZ Cattle crossing, Right: Serondella House

By Judy Hepburn

he Chobe Timber Concession sawmill, frequently referred to in the last few articles, had left six or seven fairly basic houses still standing when the original infrastructure was dismantled. The remaining buildings were spread along the high banks overlooking the Chobe River at the point where the river becomes almost unnavigable for anything larger than a mokoro. This was and is Serondella, which today is a game scout camp and a well-used picnic site for visitors. Jonathan Gibson’s family were among the early visitors to the area. As a young boy with a fishing rod resting on his shoulder, Jonathan may well have daydreamed of living forever along the banks of the Chobe, enjoying the beauty of the river, the endless Caprivi floodplains and the rich flora and fauna of the area. “The involvement of my family in Serondella in the early 1960s came as a consequence of annual winter holidays spent camping on the Zambezi River in Rhodesia,” writes Gibson. “The rising waters of the new Lake Kariba forced us off our traditional campground and when we looked for alternatives, we heard about the Chobe area in Northern Bechuanaland.

The Annual Trek “We would set off from Johannesburg with vehicles, trailers, boats, camping equipment and provisions and travel up to Victoria Falls over Rhodesia’s strip roads, then into Livingstone and from there along the north bank road of the Zambezi to cross into Bechuanaland on the antiquated ferry at Kazungula.” The District Commissioner would allocate a camp site to the family. It was during these visits that Jonathan’s parents became aware of the small settlement at Serondella. With family friends by the name of Ross, they purchased the last house on the eastern side of the river frontage as a holiday home. The house was re-roofed and restored to a livable but rustic state, and so began the Gibsons’ relationship with the Chobe Game Reserve. The trek to the banks of the Chobe River became an annual event and the family had the pleasure of witnessing much of interest in those early years. Some of the last cattle drives from Ngamiland along the south bank of the Chobe coincided with the family holidays.The herd would be driven north across the river

at the Kazungula confluence and then onto the Livingstone abattoir. “The last night of the cattle drive would be spent in Serondella. The peace would be shattered by the arrival of the herd in the late afternoon. With much shouting they would be driven into the remaining derelict buildings and thorn trees would be laid over open doorways and windows to prevent escape and keep lions out.”

Chobe Game Park Born Soon however, the area was declared part of Chobe Game Park and came under the care of the game wardens. “There was mounting pressure from the wildlife authorities to have the people moved out of what was now the national park, and have all the structures demolished,” writes Gibson “A number of citizenry left without a murmur, clearly satisfied with the alternative arrangements made by the government. My parents and few others resisted all attempts to move them. They were especially furious when it became known that Southern Sun of South Africa had been given permission to build a large lodge further downstream.” Continued on page 4

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Wetlands Essential for survival By Kerrielea Hensler

very year World Wetlands Day is commemorated on 2 February, marking the anniversary of the signing of the Convention on Wetlands in the Iranian city of Ramsar in 1971. Government agencies, nongovernmental organizations, and groups of citizens at all levels take advantage of the opportunity to raise public awareness of the values and benefits of wetlands. This year’s celebration in Botswana was held in Kasane at the Plateau Local Centre and was hosted by the Ministry for Environment, Wildlife and

Tourism through the Chobe District Council. Botswana signed and ratified the Convention April 1971; about four percent of Botswana’s land surface is covered by wetlands. Under the Ramsar Convention, a wide variety of natural and manmade habitat types ranging from rivers to coral reefs can be classified as wetlands. The list also includes swamps, marshes, billabongs, lakes, salt marshes, mudflats, mangroves, fens, peat bogs, or bodies of water, whether natural or artificial, permanent or temporary. Water within these areas can be static or flowing; fresh, brackish or saline; and

can include inland rivers and coastal or marine water to a depth of six metres at low tide. There are even underground wetlands. Forests play a crucial role in the hydrological cycle and, as a consequence, in the health of wetlands. Forested wetlands include habitats such as mangroves, nipah swamps, freshwater swamp forests, forested peatlands and seasonally flooded forests. These wetlands are important as they deliver significant ecosystem services, are cradles of biological diversity, and support populations of birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians,

Buffalo fish and invertebrates. Forested wetlands also provide carbon storage – increasingly important in a world threatened by rising green house gases and climate change. Keynote speaker on the day was the Minister for Environment, Wildlife and Tourism, the Hon. Onkokame Kitso Mokaila. The Deputy Secretary

PHOTO: BY TOM VARLEY

General of the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands, Prof. Nick Davidson, spoke on the international perspective on wetlands, and the Director of the Department of Environmental Affairs, S.C. Monna, addressed local perspectives on wetlands management. Many local organizations including

Elephants without Borders, Caracal, Botswana Tourism Organisation, First National Bank of Botswana, Barclays Bank of Botswana and OKACOM, along with the Department of Wildlife and National Parks held interactive displays. Schools from around the region participated and a wetland-themed essay competition was organised.

It’s a jungle out there! Different species may bond – why seek company? By Bonnie Fairbanks

s one of the researchers on CARACAL and Virginia Tech’s Banded Mongoose Project, I study and observe various aspects of these mongooses’ ecology. One example of the interactions we observe are associations of banded mongooses with other species. Many species of animal form groups with those of another kind. Familiar examples include mixed flocks of birds or mixed herds of ungulates. Banded mongooses are no exception and seek out the company of other species. During the

Mongooses keep the warthogs company course of our observations, we’ve seen them with many different species, including vervet monkeys, warthogs, baboons, slender mongooses, and bushbok.

Some of these associations are very loose, such as with bushbok and slender mongooses. The two species simply forage within a few meters of each

A big five safari destination! Kasane – Chobe – Botswana

Lodge and Camping Accommodation: A variety of options from family and twin rooms with ensuites in our lodges and camping. All amenities including a bar, restaurant and swimming pool. Activities: Chobe National Park game drives and boat cruises are available daily. Chobe Day trips from Victoria Falls or Livingstone include breakfast and a lunch cruise – an all day activity. Mobile safaris: Explore Chobe, Savuti, Moremi, Okavango, Nxai Pan, Makgadikgadi and Deception Valley. Choose from budget, semi participation, semi-luxury or tailor made safaris.

Telephone: +267 6250 995 / Fax: +267 6250 314 Email: thebe@chobenet.com / www.theberiversafaris.com

other for only an hour or so. On occasion, however, the interaction becomes closer, such as when banded mongooses play with young baboons and monkeys. We’ve seen them groom a warthog, presumably looking for ticks and other ectoparasites to eat. How do these associations form? You might guess it’s just by accident, they just happen to be at the same place at the same time. But banded mongooses seem to actively seek certain associations, such as those with baboons. On several occasions, we’ve heard a baboon call in the distance, and the mongooses all stand up on their hind legs, orient toward the sound, and then dash off in the direction of the call to find the baboons. They usually stay with the baboons for at least a few hours and often the entire day, following the baboons wherever they go. Why do banded mongooses choose to associate with other species in this way? The most likely explanation is the added protection. Most of the species they associate with don’t compete with

mongooses for food, but they share many of the same predators, such as dogs, large cats, humans, and large raptors. Thus, the partner species can watch out for danger and give the mongooses advanced warning of approaching predators. Baboons and monkeys are especially useful for this, as

there is usually at least one individual in a tree that can see far into the distance. The mongooses react to the alarm calls of their partner species in the same way they react to an alarm call from another mongoose, either looking up to find the source of danger or running for cover.

History of Chobe National Park – Part 4 Continued from page 3

When the Gibsons’ final plea to Alec Campbell, Director of Wildlife, was declined, they resigned themselves to the inevitable, packed up their belongings and demolished their house. In 1973 Southern Sun opened Chobe Game Lodge, but this initial period of operation was short-lived due to the growing Rhodesian bush war and its adverse effect on tourism in the area. The new lodge was shuttered, but in 1983, Gibson, together with fellow investor Ian Green, relieved the caretakers Fred and Pam Mitchell, along with baby Jason, of their enviable position and set about restoring Chobe Game Lodge to its former glory. Once again the Gibson family had laid claim to a familiar part of paradise. Jonathan’s parents Peter and Maureen Gibson both chose the site of the old family dwelling at Serondella as their final resting place, as did William Muyaluka their faithful caretaker. Jonathan and his siblings received special permission from the President’s Office to ensure that this was done. A couple of sisal plants still flourish on the edge of the high river bank beside the remains of the foundations of the Gibson family’s old Lovely Lesoma! Serondella holiday home. Enjoy the tranquility of unspoilt Today Jonathan Gibson bushland only 20kms from Kasane remains a respected member and Chobe NP. 10 lovely A/C ensuite rooms, with of the Kasane community swimming pool and BBQ area. Game drives, boat cruises, night drives and has contributed in and walking safaris on offer. many positive ways to Easy access from Zimbabwe and Zambia borders – transfers available Chobe National Park and its surrounds. Contact: Lenny: +267 7217 2074 or Lincoln: +267 7246 7576 Reservations : +267 7556 1096 Email: lesomavalley@brobemail.co.bw

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Children of the Elephants

Orphans visiting the Chovbe Game Park By Fr. Mareko Marciniak, svd

ana Ba Ditlou (Children of the Elephants) is a faith-based, non-profit organisation run by local members of the Catholic community. It is not a story about elephants, but it could be

Orphans gathered together important for their future. Neither is it a story of poor African children to get your sympathy. And yet, it does aim to provoke action and support, to make a difference in the lives of many children. The border towns of Kasane and Kazungula in Botswana are unique. The

people are from different places, tribes and colours; seeking employment, adventure or just a place to live. From the social welfare perspective this is a complicated and challenging area, especially Kgapamadi, with small houses occupied by too many people with too few jobs, too much drinking and

HIV and Aids prevalence. Clearly, not all children are neglected or hungry, but many have only one parent and seek attention or affection, meaningful stimulation and inspiration. The results are visible with streets full of children with various needs. Bana Ba Ditlou is situated right in

the heart of the township and is open to all children in the area. “Those children are the future guardians and owners of the great wilderness around them,” said Fr. Mareko Marciniak, who leads the project. “Conservation without a concern for the needs of

the people has no future, and Bana Ba Ditlou tries to make the conservation component an integral part of the social effort – more holistic social work and more holistic conservation. Visit http://banabaditlou. homestead.com

Who is the champion?

By the – only slightly biased – Chobe Chirper

econds out! The title fight for the Heavyweight World Wildlife Champion is about to begin. All the leading contestants are African, mostly because the rest of the world has long since decimated their wildlife populations. Where is the best place in Africa to experience game? Is it the famed Kruger Park, or Etosha, or Zambia’s Luangwa Valley, or is it the Serengeti / Masai Mara migration that tops the list? Could there be another gem hidden somewhere that surpasses these colossi? We recently drove through famed Kruger National Park from west to east. Now this is a Park that attracts tens of thousands of overseas visitors annually and rightly so. It is a vast stretch of wilderness if you excuse the tar roads, speed traps, and cordoned metropolises with restaurants, luxury chalets, swimming pools, petrol stations and sedans. We drove optimistically searching for game, through endless mopane from Phalaborwa to Letaba and then beyond onto the Mozambique border and through their section of the Park. This took seven hours and in that time we saw a few small herds of impala, two kudu, four zebra and one single tusker. He made the day.

Etosha is wonderful in its way if you excuse the same tar roads, speed traps and cordoned camps with restaurants, luxury chalets, swimming pools, petrol stations and sedans. It is a clone of Kruger with only the dust and its vast pan to distinguish the two, apart from a liberal sprinkling of ‘Do Not Spit’ signs scattered about the pools. On repeated visits to the Serengeti and Masai I have watched in awe as hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebra marched in stately procession over the rolling hills, and I have raced – along with forty-five other vehicles – to witness one lonely leopard in a distant tree. I cannot deny this is a must. However, nowhere offers a biomass and diversity of animals to equal the Chobe River front. Recently I took a family with three small children into the Park. In the space of a single day we wandered between hundreds of elephant and equal numbers of impala and buffalo. We watched from close as giraffe and kudu munched on leaves and we floated over pods of hippo and cruised past beached crocodiles. We sat spellbound – without another soul about – as a leopard drank from the river, and less raptly at five sleeping lions. On our

list, which is too long for the editor to permit me to detail, we spotted sable, zebra and a host of other mammals and birds. We were abuzz with delight every moment of that day. It was the same the next day and will be when you come, but be warned, there are no tar roads, no speed traps and no swimming pool or restaurants, so when you come to spend time with the Champion, pack your lunch and leave your sedan at home. PHOTO: TOM VARLEY

Situated in the Heart of Kasane we offer the following; » Chobe Full Day Trips – Options available » Victoria Falls Day Trips – Options available » Game Cruises | Game Drives | Fishing Trips Transfers to and from Vic Falls, Zambia and Namibia We can tailor make your safari to suit your specific needs be it a Game drive or Boat cruise. Our reservations team operates 24 hours a day to conveniently book your safari or just that simple enquiry you may have. All our guides are professional at what they do and they will leave a lasting impression of your visit to Botswana.

Time is for spending; spend it wisely with Chobezi Hylton Ross Touring Safari, and it will be time well spent.

PHOTO: TOM VARLEY

Call us on +267 6250992, 6251667 Fax +267 6251297 Emergency 24 hour Mobile +267 76201918 E mail: info@chobezi.com, operations@chobezi.com chobezi@yahoo.com

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Classifieds

Advertise in the Chobe Classifieds

Accommodation

Bureau De Change

Safari CLothing

Senyati Safari Camp. Nine SC

Cape 2 Cairo Bureau de Change.

boots and shoes. Wolverine boots.

Shop 14/15 Hunters Africa (new

Jackets, fleece, sleeveless fleeces,

arcade – Spar complex). Tel: +267

sarongs, caps, jewellery, soft toys

625 2483. Cell: +267 721 16479. Also

and Botswana fridge magnets and

Kazungula Junction, Shop 1E. Tel:

much more. Edglo Shop, opp. Kasane

+267 625 2485 or +267 625 2193

Primary Hospital, Kasane.

thatched campsites with power and own ablutions. Three SC chalets, each sleep up to 4. Bar overlooking waterhole.

Located

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Coffee Buzz, now open in Kasane.

Tours and Travel

Breakfast, lunch, daily specials. Open

The CARACAL Biodiversity Centre,

main road at Kalahari Tours. Phone

Kasane. An extremely worthwhile,

+267-713 18956.

collection

reptiles

Fast Food

including

snakes, chameleons and tortoises, also other fauna; birds, butterflies,

Pizza

Plus,

insects, banded mongoose. Open

Opening soon! Authentic Indian

Monday-Sunday 9am to 5pm. Phone

cuisine, pizzas, cold drinks and more.

+267 624-2392 or cell +267 71 676

Eat in or takeaway. Opposite Spar

376. Email: caracal@botsnet.bw

complex, Kasane. Ph: +267 625 2237,

coffee

and

curry.

Fax: +267 625 2238.

Automotive for all local and imported vehicles. Opposite new bus rank, Kasane. Phone +267 625 2777, Fax +267 625 2666. Max Panelbeaters. Panel beating, spray painting, gearbox and engine repairs, tyre services. Pula Street,

Chobe

Fishing

Adventures.

Safari Reservations. Specialists in inbound tours, offering travel packages and tailor

No 1 Lady Travel Agent Beside Spar complex, Kasane Ph: +267 625 0131 or +267 716 25521 jeilatravel@yahoo.co.uk joyce.chika@yahoo.com

made itineraries to tourists in Botswana, for all budgets and interests. We can also Savuti, Moremi, Okavango Delta and more. Telephone: +267 7428 7919

For

beginners and serious fishing persons

Email: info@safarisreservations.com. Www.safarisreservations.com

QUICK QUIZ

alike! 3 hour, half and full day trips available. To book call Michael (00267) 717 71753 or Jo (00267) 716 17602 or email us at chobe_fishingadventures@yahoo.com

Butchery

Kazungula Industrial Site. Phone

Tours and Travel

DREAMS SAFARIS

Overnight in Chobe National Park

We offer....... * Game drives * Boat cruises * Fishing * Walking safaris * Night drives * Bicycle riding * Mobile safaris

Contact: +267 625 0332 Cell +267 71 846 965 or +267 73 174300 Email: dreams@botsnet.bw misto_bw@yahoo.com.uk

Come and camp out with us, we’ll provide everything Mobile safaris: into Chobe, Ihaha, Savuti, Moremi, etc We’ll tailor the trip to suit you. *Boat cruises and game drives: hop aboard for an incredible experience *Chobe day trip: full day activity, pick up from Zambia or Zimbabwe border post *Victoria Falls: visit the magnificent falls and explore the Livingstone Museum Transfers also available

Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia. We cater book campsites in Botswana – Chobe,

Fishing Safaris

Auto World. Spare parts and accessories

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+263 712 208 370

Game drives, boat cruises, border pickup. Mobile safaris, fishing, Livingstone and Victoria Falls day trips Cultural village tours

Mon-Fri 7.30am to 2pm. On Kasane

educational visit. Home to a wide

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Email: edgloshop@yahoo.com

Email:senyatisafaricamp@gmail.com

Activities

fjackson@iwayafrica.com

Ph: +267 716 17677.

Coffee Shop

Ww w.senyatisafaricamp.co.bw

Zambezi Traveller

Send us the name for this creature and win a free classified advert of 20 words in any classified section of the Zambezi Traveller. Winners will be based on the first correct answer recieved.

Plot 10, Kazungula, Botswana Ph: +267 717 88014 or +267 715 16924 Email: info@umpengu.com

100% Motswana owned company

P O Box 40, Kasane, Botswana Tel: +267 625 0384 Fax: +267 625 0223 Email: chobe@mega.bw

+267 625 2231, Fax +267 625 2212.

Send your answer to fjackson@iwayafrica.com

Bottled Water

Kasane Christian Bookshop - New stock Bibles, books, CD/DVD’s, flowers, wreaths, gifts and more. Moved to front of Audi Centre

Chobe

Pure

bottled

Come fish the Zambezi and Chobe Rivers. Super upmarket river boat with 6 ensuite cabins

The river safari of a lifetime! www.prideofzambezi.com

Contact Email: michelle@prideofzambezi.com Tel: +27 726730010

water.

Purification and bottling plant now open. Still water in 500ml, 1.5L and 5L bottles, refills also available. Kazungula Industrial Site, Botswana (Opp. Auto Glass). Ph: +267 625 1429. Cell +267 7343 3433 or +267 7123 2905. Email: chobepure@gmail.com

Safari CLothing African Safari Clothing. T-shirts, shirts, trousers,m shorts, Hi-tech

African Safari Jewellery Elephant hair bracelets handcrafted in gold and silver by Peter Hepburn Available in Kasane, Botswana at the Audi Centre (next to coffee shop, opposite Chobe Marina Lodge)

Phone: +267 6250 254 Fax: +267 6250 810 Email: cbhsaf@botsnet.bw or judy@chobenet.bw

www.kasanecomputers.com We stock a large variety of PC products, gadgets and ink cartridges * PC Repairs available * Office Services and internet café/wireless hotspots available in our two shops!

CENTRAL KASANE BRANCH OPPOSITE CHOBE MARINA LODGE Tel: +267 625 2312 Fax: 625 2537

KAZUNGULU BRANCH (Botswana)

KAZUNGULU JUNCTION - NEXT TO CAPE 2 CAIRO Tel: +267 625 2246 Fax: 625 2256

Shop 14/15, Hunters Africa (New Arcade - Spar Complex) Fax/Tel: + 267 625 2483 Cell: + 267 721 16479 Shop 1E Kazungula Junction (Next to Engen) Tel: +267 625 2485 / +267 625 2193

Okavango on your way to the Zambezi

Warning to all adventurers By Mike Taylor, London

An unexpected visitor.

f you ever decide that the perfect solution to a midlife crisis is to traverse the African continent in a Land Rover towing a microlight behind, you must never stop in Maun. Pass through and push on. Do not be tempted to roll into the rustic idyll of “The Old Bridge Backpackers.” It will consume you. Cradle in the great fig tree hammock and gazing upon the tranquil pool below the old bridge where, by night, you hear hippos, and by day, happy youngsters sling out their

lines and haul in their own body weight in fish. This will make you forget that you have the miserable half of life left to look forward to, and that an epic journey - while you still have the energy - is your objective. People stay here and never leave. Don’t take my word for it, ask any of the characters at the bar. Bobbing in a mokoro with a gin and tonic in hand while watching the moon rise from under the log bridge; catching your first ever fish; wading on horseback through the river at sunset; experiencing an inner-delta boat trip, sleeping in the open with

lions roaring all around; performing ballet under the full moon on the pans; jamming by the fire with rare and beautiful talent; imbibing at the bar under thatch hoisted high on spotlit leadwood shoulders with the planets foremost night-glow crazies… All of this makes you forget your mission. You have a crisis. You must remember this. Make tracks of your own. Get out. Don’t even come in. Words cannot express the guilt I feel for helping dig a hole for a sign post. If you see the arrow, please, for your own sake go the other way.

Flamingo sanctuary declared By Pete Roberts

he barren salt flats of Botswana’s Makgadikgadi Pans might hardly seem like a conservation hotspot, but its designation as an Important Bird Area is evidence that there is more to the area than meets the eye. It is one of only four breeding sites for the ‘Near Threatened’ lesser flamingo Phoeniconaias minor in Africa – as well as providing a haven for 30 other globally and nationally important bird species.

To date, the breeding sites of the lesser flamingo in the Makgadikgadi have been protected by their remoteness and inaccessibility, but in recognition of the crucial role they play in the long-term survival of the species, the Botswana Government recently gazetted a flamingo sanctuary to provide formal protection of the area. “We are aware of the importance of the flamingo nesting areas in the Makgadikgadi,” said Dr Lucas Rutina, Regional Wildlife Officer responsible for implementing the project. “The Makgadikgadi is the largest and most important in southern Africa.” The sanctuary was declared after extensive consultation with all communities living around the area, which revealed widespread support for the initiative. Community members share a common vision for the area, planning to create a buffer of community managed photographic areas around the core protected area, creating a larger, more viable sanctuary from which they could also benefit without impinging on the sensitive breeding site. “We realise this species is one of our most important assets,” said David Seabe, secretary for the Gumakutshaa

Conservation Trust which represents communities in the area. “The sight of 100,000 flamingos on the pans is one of Africa’s top birding spectacles which can drive avi-tourism in our area.” The flamingo sanctuary is one of 12 Important Bird Areas identified in the country, covering over 25% of its land surface and illustrating Botswana’s commitment to conserving birds and biodiversity. Visit www. birdlifebotswana.org.bw

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zambezi okavango

Travellers Friend

By Teddy Brightman

The Zambezi Traveller

An African ring of bright water

here is nothing quite so thrilling in the game viewing world as seeing an animal that has constantly eluded you. One such animal for me was the African Cape Clawless Otter. We arrived in the late afternoon at Nunda lodge, unpacked our bags and sat on our verandah overlooking the Okavango River (Nunda Lodge is located at the panhandle of the Okavango Delta in the Caprivi), listening to the puffs and grunts of the hippos and calls of the waterbirds. An unusual movement caught our eye on a sandbank on our side of the river, and a pair of otters came into view. We watched spellbound as they flopped about, rolled over on their backs, baring their bellies, then played a game of catch before collapsing once again on the bank. Before sliding back into the river they teasingly mock charged a hippo that popped up in the river just beside them. Cape Clawless Otters are playful and entertaining to watch and have been seen using mud banks and smooth rocks to slide down into the water. They spend many hours

chasing each other and frolicking in the water. They are agile swimmers, making use of their powerful tails to propel them through the water. Together with their unusual paws, which have partially webbed fingers and toes, clawless as their name indicates, this enables them to hunt their pray of frogs, fish, crabs and other water life. The dextrous fingers also come in handy lifting rocks and sticks, whilst in or out of water, in search of food. These creatures face many challenges and although they are found throughout Southern Africa and are locally common in some areas, there are areas in which they are protected. Their habitat is becoming increasingly threatened; their two largest predators are man and the crocodile. To witness these elusive creatures in their natural habitat, I would strongly recommend a visit to the Caprivi wetlands which provide an ideal and relatively undisturbed habitat. African Cape Clawless Otter

Record floods forecast

By Norman Chandler

he peak of this year’s annual flood on all rivers serving Angola, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe is expected to be much higher than last year. Some forecasts are that water levels could reach as high as two metres above last year and if so, it would be the highest since the mid-1980s. Five countries in southern Africa have issued flood warnings following unusually heavy rains throughout

the region. Botswana, Mozambique, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe have forecast that serious flooding could affect tens of thousands of people, and damage infrastructure, crops and homes, the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs reported. Rundu in Namibia is the first station to have reported the water level is higher than last year and this indicates

that water flowing into the Okavango River and Delta in Botswana will also be high. In north-west Botswana at Mohembo the annual flooding is also higher than the corresponding period last year, so far the highest for this time of the year since 1984, according to latest statistics. At Maun, the level of water in the Boro and Thamalakane Rivers, tributaries of the Okavango River which in turn supply Lake Ngami and

Old World Safari Charm

the Boteti River, is appreciably higher than for the last two seasons. The Zambezi River is also in flood and warnings of high water and potential damage to properties have been issued all along the Caprivi Strip in Namibia. In addition, the Chobe River, a tributary of the Zambezi, is also rising much earlier this year than in years past. Whatever happens in the Zambezi and Chobe also has a bearing on the Okavango Delta, where for the first time in two decades the Savuti Channel came down in flood last year.

B O T S WA N A

villages throughout the region have been placed on alert.

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Zambezi News

victoria falls TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River

A bonanza of fun FALLS FEST

By Jo Brown

The Parlotones front man

Chief Mvutu and Cheif Mpisi (Right) supported the Falls Fest 2010

The town of Victoria Falls has enjoyed an upsurge in visitors over the last year, however nothing could have prepared it for the festivities of the final days of 2010. Social networks were alive with plans from early in the year, every medium from facebook to word-of-mouth had one common theme – Zimbabweans from all corners of the globe were coming home. Not only were the youth returning, but they were bringing friends and family from every generation. On December 28 there was a definite buzz, as all modes of transport from airlines, to buses, to private cars, brought crowds from every direction, gradually filling all levels of accommodation. At the Victoria Falls Rest Camp, the excitement was tangible as the cacophony of instrument and sound tests permeated the main street throughout the day. Operators in Victoria Falls saw their busiest days in many years, with many activities fully booked. Restaurants produced their biggest sales to date. On the 29th the Victoria Falls Barefoot Beerfest was held at Victoria Falls Primary School. An astounding 1200 people attended, and enjoyed the music of DJ Frank, Gary Stanley and Cunning Brad. But it was only a rehearsal for a mass reunion the next day. The 30th was the first night of the main festival at Vic Falls Campsite, showcasing a mixture of Zimbabwean and South African performers - Kazz Douie, Evicted, Mann Friday and the Parlotones. There was a unique vibe, with people from all walks of life enjoying themselves under the African night sky. In the midst of enthusiastic dancing and jostling to the front, everyone took a moment to just drink in the atmosphere, one that would be hard to replicate anywhere else in the world. True to Zimbabwean style, the police reported no major incidents. The number of attendees at the Fest this night was an impressive 3 450. Rafting on the Zimbabwe side also saw its biggest day in 10 years, with 400 people shooting down the river in one day . By the 31st the ambiance was electric, and still more

Jumping into the crowd people arrived in town, bringing Fest attendance to 4 100. By this time, all hotels and the campsite were full, to bursting. As the day drew to a close, the crowds were treated to more music, with Ghapi now joining the lineup. Vic Falls DJ Francis saw the New Year in, keeping the crowd dancing until sun-up. Overall, Falls Fest 2010 was the most successful event Victoria Falls has seen in many years, bringing a huge boon to businesses at all levels. There are bigger and better plans for 2011. Further development in the Campsite has commenced and the construction of another campsite has begun. The organisers have taken all the feedback from various quarters and are looking to improve wherever possible. Stay in touch with the Falls Fest developments online. Visit Youtube and Face Book Page – Falls Fest. Website – www.fallsfest.co.zw

zambezi victoria falls

Travellers Friend

We’ll be back

say UK travel writers By Patrick Musiram in Harare

t may not be a deluge, yet, but tourists are beating a path to Zimbabwe again after a decade of avoiding the country because of political and economic crises. Across the country’s tourist resorts, especially in the national parks lining the Zambezi valley, the mood in the tourism industry is upbeat. Back in Britain after touring the country, two photographic journalists have collaborated to mount an exhibition of their visit. “Given the general media coverage I’ve seen of Zimbabwe, I found it to be a fantastic place to visit, with very friendly, welcoming people, which

over the Victoria Falls was just one of those ‘glad to be alive’ moments. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit and fully intend to return as soon as I can,” he said from London. A passionate travel photographer, who has already visited 65 countries, Keith Hern Hern runs a commercial was much better than I was and people photography business in Surrey and has anticipating. The wildlife in Hwange was an absolute won awards in the USA and UK, including Gold in the pleasure to see, and it will 2008 Create Awards. His be a long time before I work was featured in the forget being a few yards away from a herd of at least December edition of Travel magazine, published by The 50 elephants,” confessed Sunday Times. seasoned writer and Travel photographer and photographer Keith Hern. writer Stuart Forster from “There was plenty in Sunderland is a member the way of photographic of the British Guild of interest in the Matobo Travel Writers and drew Hills, and being up in on his long experience of time to watch the sunrise

India while contributing to the forthcoming National Geographic book, Secret Journeys. He was shortlisted for the German Travel Writer of the Year Award, 2010. “It was wonderful to observe and photograph the wildlife in Zimbabwe, and to have opportunities to photograph historic sites such as the grave of Cecil Rhodes in the Matobo Hills, and at the fascinating ruins of the Khami National Monument. “From the perspective of a photographer the country has lots to offer. I’m excited about the prospect of exhibiting at Zimbabwe House and hope that the pupils at Nichilibi School will benefit from the money raised.”

The Zambezi Traveller

River accident tests rescue services A

Victoria Falls resident was injured when he took a dive into a pool in the Zambezi River, but misjudged its depth. Friends recall it was immediately clear to them that something serious had happened when the victim was unable to stand. A call was made to the Medical Air and Ambulance Rescue Services and the Zambezi Helicopter Company. ZHC is best known for operating the ‘Flight of Angels,’ a scenic flight over the Victoria Falls, but in addition, ZHC offer medical air rescue services to surrounding areas stretching from Vic Falls to Hwange and Mlibizi. The pilot on duty at the time recalled the events that followed. “I received a message that an incident had occurred up river. We promptly changed the helicopter to Search and Rescue configuration, then headed off in search of the injured person. Co-ordinates were not available and we had to visually search for the site. “We spotted the group who were signalling from the ground. As there was no prepared landing site we had to make several orbits of the area to establish a safe site. The area consisted mostly of sandy river bank, but we were able to spot a harder surface in a confined area on a slope above the river.” The MARS team had also arrived by road. The patient was secured onto the spine board by MARS and transferred across the riverine area to the helicopter. The pilot then flew him out of the park to Victoria Falls Medical Centre, sparing him a slow and dangerous road journey through the park.

Venerable Residents Alison Baker, Zambezi Horse Trails

ow old is she? I have no idea. She was one of the first animals we darted here, and we had to remove snares from her 3 times after that. The last time was in 2003.

PHOTO: ALISON BAKER

She was already old then, with worn teeth, her tusks broken. Because of her age, she supplemented her diet by scavenging sadza leavings from the market, and this made her an easy target for poachers. While she was recovering from her 2003

injuries, she remained at the stables, and since then she, and subsequently her daughters, have bought their piglets to our yard every year. Her yellow, worn tusks have been broken off at the base twice, her skin hangs loose from her neck and in

folds from her haunches. Nevertheless she has a litter of three strapping piglets, whilst helping a first year mother with her two surviving ones. This may well be her last litter. So we salute her – the Mother of all Warthogs!

RIVER REPORT

Zambezi River levels beginning of March 2011

FREE Sunset cruise with any 2 activities booked.

SAVE up to 18% by booking any 3 activities. SAVE 20%, book a Lion + Elephant Combination trip.

ST A

Victoria Falls Hydrographs

2 hr Horse Ride White Water Rafting

High Wire Activity 2 hr Game Drive Elephant Back Safari 12 minute Heli Flight

iti

A ns

Canoe Trail Lion Encounter

30cm

As you can see from the table below we are 30cm higher than the same time last year. The river continues to rise 3cm a day. Yesterday

Today

3-Mar-11

4-Mar-11 4-Mar-09 4-Mar

River

Site

Zambezi

Vic Falls 1.65 Hydrostation

1.68

2009

1.16

2010

1.38

zambezi victoria falls

The Zambezi Traveller

Mountains and valleys created on canvas How does a professional painter fill his days? ZT reports

Chimanimani mountain range By Larry Norton

undertook a commission with some trepidation last year to complete two massive canvases of Zimbabwe. The first was to be a depiction of Mana Pools in the Zambezi Valley. The second, a scene of the far less well-known but equally

spectacular Chimanimani Mountains in the south eastern highlands of the country. Both paintings were to be over a metre high and almost three metres wide. Field trips across the breath of the country followed. Early mornings, long, long days and late nights at the easel, tired eyes, aching shoulders and the

constant reek of turpentine. Day in, day out, for weeks and months. I remember the feeling, staring at three blank square meters of canvas and wondering where to start. My nine year old daughter, Madeleine, drew a small cross on the white expanse. From this point, I began to sketch out a herd of buffalo, which flowed

into the landscape. After eight days of drawing I had the blueprint for “In the Valley of Memories.” Four months later I had finished painting it, overwhelmed by nostalgia. Whilst growing up, we spent numerous holidays in this magnificent valley. My dad hunted there and we spent many a day on the river or trudging behind him through heat and dust. The area depicted is not far from Ruckomechi Camp. It was near here that I had photographed a pack of wild dogs at rest, under some old, elephant-scarred Albida trees. Some years earlier I had photographed the magnificent tusker depicted on the right of the painting. Eventually the Mana piece was complete and a great party ensued in the studio. The Vic Falls community is filled with undercover art aficionados, whose unique insight emerges after liberal intakes of wine and beer. The second canvas, vast and blank, rolled out and with it sobering thoughts of the work that lay ahead.

Introducing Zambezi Teak

By Richard Lowe

isitors to the upper Zambezi region are well aware of the splendours of Victoria Falls or the wonderful wildlife of Chobe and Hwange. Few are aware of another natural phenomenon – the Zambezi teak forests of the region (a.k.a. the

gusu forest). Covering 2.8 million hectares of western Zimbabwe and huge areas of western Zambia, Angola and Botswana, this is the most important forest ecosystem in Southern Africa Zambezi teak has now become the most popular

name for the tree and timber referred to in the past as African teak, Rhodesian teak, Zambian teak, umkusu or Zambezi redwood (Baikiaea plurijuga). It is a medium to large tree, typically 8 to 16 metres tall, though specimens of 25 meters in height and 1.4 meters in diameter have been recorded. In the early months of the year beautiful mauve flowers with a touch of pink cover the gusu forest in a blaze of colour. As winter envelopes the region and temperatures drop in the evening the large woody pods split explosively, reminiscent of gun shots, flinging seeds far and wide. In well-watered areas the tree is practically evergreen. It has a large, dense, rounded crown, with a straight bole branching out to form a most noble and distinctive tree. The bark is brownish grey and may be deeply fissured

in older specimens. It is by far the most common tree in the Victoria Falls region and along the deep Kalahari sands, so you cannot miss it! (Part I of a three-part serial)

Travellers Friend I remembered the field trip and the cruiser climbing through rising mountain ranges, obscured by mist and rain. This characteristic weather pattern, known locally as guti, frustrated all efforts for a few days. Eventually a dawn trip to the top of Pork Pie Hill, overlooking the town and the Chimanimani Range, yielded the scene to be painted. An ocean of mountains swimming in light and low cloud. Reefs of forests and land, rising through mist. A distant vista of the receding plains of Mozambique. A landscape drenched in raw beauty, observed by a pair of Lanner Falcons I had seen on the hill.

A few days of hiking in the extraordinary Chimanimani National Park supplemented details for the painting. Proteas, aloes, bizarre rock formations, klipspringers, crystal clear streams and waterfalls. Too much to include. This painting, entitled “Light on the Valley” moved faster than Mana. More landscape than game; gentle greens and blues rather than dry earth browns and ochres. As I write, the canvas is now covered, only the finishing details remain and the second art marathon will be done. Both works have brought poignant realizations as to the exquisite beauty of these places... And the rich privilege of painting them.

“I had my most intense aesthetic experience when I was suddenly exposed to the sublime beauty of the sculpture executed by African artists.” - Pablo Piccasso PERMANENT EXHIBITION Victoria Falls Hotel, Zimbabwe Tel: +263 13 - 41757 Email: artafrica@bluewin.ch www.stonedynamicsgallery.co.zw

Victoria Falls

Factory: 452 Miles Road, Victoria Falls Tel: +263 13 44495

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Twikatane Road, off Addis Ababa Drive Lusaka (Next to Zebra Crossing Cafe) Tel: +260 211 255 989

Original & Reproduced fine art works from this renowned wildlife and landscape artist. The Stables Lounge, The Victoria Falls Hotel, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Phone - +263772606233 Email info@larrynorton.co.za Website www.larrynorton.co.za

zambezi victoria falls

Travellers Friend

The Zambezi Traveller

A new ambassador in residence

Wow! What a wonderful night we had at the Elephant Camp. A beautiful tented retreat complete with the magic of the Victoria Falls. And having the opportunity to interact with a cheetah is one of the most humbling experiences ever– Sylvester is amazing! This photo and comment was sent to ZT by Amanda… after a visit to Elephant camp.

Sylvester taking some time out By Shaylene Best

n March 2010, in the south-east lowveld area of Zimbabwe, a cheetah gave birth to five cubs. Within two days she and four of her cubs were fatally attacked by a male lion, something which is common between apex predators in the wild. The sole survivor was recovered by a game scout named Sylvester who witnessed the event. Norman and Penny English were given the cub to rear and they named it after its rescuer. Norman was in National Parks for many years and now heads the anti-poaching unit in the Bubi Conservancy. Penny is a registered nurse; the experience of both was to be invaluable in their attempt to keep this young cheetah alive. At two days old, Sylvester still had his umbilical cord attached and unopened eyes.

Over the following six months the hard work and devotion of the English family was rewarded, but it did not come easily. Feeding was complicated and the cub developed rickets at one stage, but the struggle to find a suitable formula was assisted by the many cheetah experts in the region who passed on information. In time a dietary plan that suited Sylvester was formulated and he began to respond. Sylvester was never destined to become a pet. As a Specially Protected species, the National Parks and Wildlife Authority was involved from the outset with Sylvester’s welfare. A plan needed to be formulated for a future permanent home for him. Experience throughout Africa has shown that cheetah do not survive in the wild without having the nurture of a mother for the

1021 Holland Road Ext. P.O. Box 159 Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Tel: +263-13-44426 / 42313/42029 Fax: +263-13-44426 Email: res6@wildhorizons.co.zw www.wildhorizons.co.za

The human imprint of upbringing in captivity is not conducive to a wild release, initial twenty two months of their lives. The human imprint of upbringing in captivity is not conducive to a wild release, with rehabilitated cheetah often coming into contact with human settlements and becoming ‘problem’ animals. The Wild Horizons Wildlife Sanctuary near Victoria Falls has large areas of open grassland where a cheetah can exercise naturally and build up the speed that they are known for. It also has no large resident predators. With authority from National Parks, and

the blessing of the English family, Sylvester has adapted well to his new environment in the Sanctuary. Three carers exercise him extensively, help with his feeding and are around for anything an eight month old cheetah would require. Sylvester’s primary purpose at the Sanctuary is educational. He interacts with schoolchildren and guests who visit the Elephant Wallow during other activities. He will become an ambassador for his species; once he has excited the attention of the public, they can then be made aware of the peril his endangered species faces and the options left for their survival in the wild. Cheetah are rarely sighted in the Victoria Falls region, and whilst Wild Horizons respects that the ultimate aim is to promote the conservation

of wildlife, and that they are merely custodians of this magnificent animal, funds need to be raised for his upkeep. Feeding, exercise and care mean that Sylvester has to have constant companionship. Wild Horizons acknowledges the Regional Cheetah Co-ordinator for Southern Africa, the

Cheetah Outreach in Cape Town as well as the Cheetah Fund in Namibia who are in the forefront of cheetah conservation and research and who gave their valuable time and experience to evaluate the area and advise on Sylvester’s welfare in his new home. Visit www. wildhorizonswildlifetrust.org

Victoria Falls Productions Private Photography / Videography services

Tom Varley will take high quality Pictures / Video of your Experience in Africa We offer a personal service by professional photographers. We can join your day trip in Chobe, trip to Victoria Falls, or anything else you’d like to keep a memory of. Tom Varley, a camera man and a photographer, was raised in the Zimbabwean bush. His love for the wildlife and the area is reflecting in his work and led him to publish a coffee book about Victoria Falls.

Cell: +263 712 616 874 Tel: + 263 13 406 79 Email: vtomvarley@me.com www.vicfallsproductions.com

zambezi victoria falls

The Zambezi Traveller

Travellers Friend

The miracle of the ‘One Day School’

Foundation to roof in one day

PHOTO: DICK DURKSENI/MARANATHA VOLUNTEERS INTERNATIONAL

By Teddy Brightman

he concept did not make any sense. I sat and listened to Karen Godfrey from Maranatha Volunteers International while she told me about the school that was being built in Mkhosana, Victoria Falls. I smiled and nodded politely, not believing what I was hearing. I’ve had some

experience with building – not much fun – and hearing about a classroom that could be built in a day was an incredible stretch. The Vic Falls project began 20 years ago, I was told, with a devout member of the Seventh-day Adventist Church, Odiah Chinyangaya, who found a

place in the bush for worship and constructed a makeshift shelter. Odiah, now 70 years old, through persistence and faith, secured the land from Victoria Falls Council, for the construction of a church. She regularly corresponded with the overseas authorities of the Seventh-day Adventist Church, calling

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02/03/2011 12:24

upon them to build a church and a school. In the USA, meanwhile, the ‘One-Day Church’ was created and developed by businessman Garwin NcNeilus, who went on to develop the ‘One-Day School.’ From the time the foundation is laid, a classroom should be completed in one day. The One-Day School comes in a kit complete with walls, windows, doors, desk, chalkboard and everything else needed for the finished facility. The design is a galvanised steel structure fabricated in Minnesota, made in such a way to maximise natural light and can be up to 10 degrees cooler than the outside temperature. It is termite-proof and requires no maintenance. There is no wood or glass used in the construction of a classroom, designed for 44 children. Garwin McNeilus was present himself at the Victoria Falls site to supervise the project. The Maranatha volunteers arrived on 13 January and by the 30 January the school was complete. I was shown around the site which was a hive of

activity and enthusiasm. My cynicism dissolved. The excitement as the building took shape was palpable. Before my eyes, up went an education centre that has both junior and high school facilities, complete with church and bathroom blocks, with a capacity for 700 children. It was an education for me in what gifted design, combined with careful planning, organisation and unlimited energy, can achieve. The One-Day School

and Church program is a joint project of Maranatha and Adventist-Laymen’s Services and Industries (ASI), which has been instrumental in building hundreds of churches and schools around the world. The Victoria Falls school was officially opened by Mark Finley, assistant to the Seventh-day Adventist world church president, who was also involved in all aspects of this project. Visit www.maranatha.org

Rotary News Old People’s home in Victoria Falls gets a real boost. Rotary District 6890 in New York funded an ablution bloc, storage and washing facility for the home as well as beds, mattresses and cabinet for the residents. Chamobonda School classroom Victoria Falls USD 12,000 cash input gave the school desks, tables, exam tablets, books, supplies, benches, blackboards and teaching materials for three classrooms.

zambezi victoria falls

Travellers Friend

The Zambezi Traveller

Green Fund takes on can project

By Jo Brown

he Victoria Falls Green Fund is a nonprofit organisation,with stakeholders from all levels of the community, mandated to take on environmental projects. Waste management is a common problem

throughout the world, and in Africa no less so. Tin cans from beverages are one of the biggest culprits, yet are one of the easiest to recycle. When a visiting team of 30 Canadian doctors representing CMEatSea, led by Sanjay Goel, asked their

3 WINNERS & 3 COPIES

Diners enjoy a meal athe the refurbished café

Are You an Aspiring writer Or photographer? Win a copy of the Magnificent Victoria Falls in the Zambezi Traveller’s “People of the Zambezi” Congratulations to Brian and Lindi Worsley from Darwin, Australia for their winning article titled Treasures of a Vanishing Culture which is featured in the Kariba and Lower Zambezi section. Only two books left! Three copies of this beautiful book will be given away to three lucky winners whose articles with photographs are published. The stories will be published in the March-May 2011 issue, June-August 2011 issue and the September-November 2011 issue. We are looking for a 350 – 400 words with a maximum of two visuals.

All entries must be submitted as follows: Text must be in Microsoft Word and all images must be CMYK, 300dpi. Email: fjackson@iwayafrica.com

Chief Mpisi with the generous Canadian doctors destination management company Cansaf for an environmental project to support, the idea of the home made can crusher was born. The Dube brothers from Zambezi Engineering produced the first prototype, and after some minor modification, a crusher with a five can

Open 7 days a week 8am to 9pm

Located at the Trading Post, Landela Complex, opposite the Municipality Entrance on Livingstone Way - Alfresco courtyard restaurant specialising in casual dining. Affordable meals to suit all tastes including game meat and traditional dishes. Serving all day breakfasts, teas & cakes, snacks, full lunches and dinners. Liquor licensed. Group bookings welcome. Digital Satellite t.v. to keep you informed and entertained. Phone (013) 42994

also met with Dr Fungai, a local GP, to discuss conditions in the area, completing their three day stay in Victoria Falls. Long term, Environment Africa plans to distribute can crushers to the Environmental Ward Action Teams in Victoria Falls to embark on a full recycling project. The

crushed cans will be sold to Delta Beverages in Victoria Falls, with an agreement in place for cost effective transport of the consignments to Bulawayo for processing. This should grow into a sustainable project that benefits the environment, as well as providing self employment opportunities.

A fresh look to a popular café By ZT Correspondent

R E S T A U R A N T

capacity was successfully tested. Two trial crushers were presented to headman Mpisi at Mpisi Village, Monde Communal Land, in a ceremony attended by CMEatSea, Cansaf and Environment Africa. The visiting doctors were given an educational tour of Mpisi village and a talk on the Ndebele culture. They

acquie Scull was born in Zimbabwe and spent most of her formative years in the country of her birth before she moved with her family to different parts of the world. She then travelled extensively, experiencing international cuisine and culture. However her true love is Africa so she came back home to her roots and has recently renovated

and refurbished what used to be known as the River Cafe in the centre of Vic Falls and has renamed it ‘The African Hide Restaurant’. I decided to pop round for a morning cappuccino , as there has been a bit of buzz around about the newly improved café. The cappuccino was good, and The African hide is still a great place to meet up with your mates! Enjoying tea and a chat

PHOTO: JO BROWN

zambezi victoria falls

The Zambezi Traveller

Tracking vultures

PHOTO: GAVIN WISE

Exciting correspondence between Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and a researcher in South Africa. From: William Louis Phipps Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 9:49 AM To: Jonathan Hudson - Guest Services; Maintenance Manager Subject: Vultures at VFSL Dear Madams and Sirs, My name is Louis Phipps and I run a vulture research project in South Africa. One of the vultures that we have attached a GPS tracking device to has been very close to VFSL for a couple of weeks now. It is approximately 300 metres to the west of the lodge. If possible, it would be great if you could ask one of your staff members or guides to have a look to see if they can see the vulture - it has 2 yellow tags on its wings so it should be easy to see. (GPS co-ords:S17.91625 E25.81644 or S17.91654 E25.81648). It looks like it is directly to the west of the lodge, on the left hand side of a water-hole. If any of your guests are interested in birds I’m sure they’ll be interested to know that this vulture comes from the Pilanesberg Northern Province in South Africa, 900 km south of you! Thanks a lot in anticipation of your help, I will be very grateful. Best regards, Louis.

Dear Mr.Phipps Thank you so much for your e-mail. We had seen a tagged White Backed Vulture on the 19 June and sent the information to a Kerri Wolter, a name we found on the web site, but she was out of office till the end of June, so we are extremely grateful for your e-mail. The Vulture had 2 tags, one GPS yellow tag B394. It has been seen frequently at the Vulture feeding restaurant that we have at VFSL. The last sighting was beginning of July. We also have another White Backed Vulture which has been seen most days with a non GPS yellow tag B354. Last seen yesterday 08 July. We were very interested to learn that it has come from 900kms south of us. Our guests who enjoy the Vulture Feeding we have at 1300hrs daily will be very interested to learn how far this vulture has flown.We will keep you informed if we have any more visitors and their tag numbers.Thanks you again for this very interesting information. Kind regards, Gavin, Tendekai and Paddy Tours Desk - Victoria Falls Safari Lodge

Hi,

Thanks so much for this information - very exciting! I didn’t realise that there was a feeding site at the lodge, but that’s great news. I have attached a questionnaire for all vulture feeding sites in southern Africa, it would be fantastic if you could complete it and send it back to me whenever you have a chance. B394 is actually at the your feeding site today - this bird is fitted with a tracking device so I can follow its movements on a daily basis! B354 was also caught and tagged here at Pilanesberg, so both birds have had long journeys! Any photographs of tagged birds would be a great help as well. I have attached the resightings form as well, in case you see any other tagged birds. Do you have access to camera traps? They are a great way to find out who is visiting the feeding site, and also for reading the tag numbers more easily! Let me know if you’d like more information. I have attached a photo of B394 while I was fitting the device down here in SA. Thanks so much for your help with this, I really appreciate it, and it’s very important information for vulture conservation. I was at VFSL in December 2006, and loved it - this could be another great reason to come back for a visit!! Thanks again. All the best, Louis.

The origins of Khaki By Arnie Haward

From the Pilansberg in South Africa to Victoria Falls

Travellers Friend

haki, today the essential wear of Hollywood stars, on camera and off, anywhere in Africa north and south of the Sahara, had much more humble origins. It is credited to Sir Henry Lumsden, stationed in India in 1846. Sir Lumsden adapted his cotton pyjama bottoms to day-wear, primarily to find a more comfortable alternative to military trousers in the tropical heat. His creation was of a lighter material and less tightly fitted than the military issue, and to disguise them somewhat, he decided to colour them with local Mazari dye. Mazari was extracted from a native plant; its tawny colour, similar to the region’s saffron dust, helped the clothing to blend in with the terrain. The term ‘khaki’ comes from the Hindi and Urdu word for earth or dust-coloured. Sir Lumsden and colleagues realised that his new uniform had another advantage as well as comfort, being more suitable in battle as a forerunner of camouflage than the very conspicuous traditional white pants and red tunic. The British Army introduced khaki uniforms to colonial troops in India in 1848, then gradually introduced khaki uniforms for the wars in South Africa during 1851, and after the Sudan wars and Afghan campaign of 1878, adopted khaki as the official uniform in 1884. By this time khaki had come to symbolize outdoor adventure, a concept wholly

embraced by Hollywood. It became a staple on US college campuses and President John F. Kennedy’s penchant for it in the 1960’s added to its allure. The contribution of Mazari and Mangalore by giving Khaki to the world of fashion is immense, influencing a wave of brands which still today associate with the global travel, adventure and safari industries. What better name than Mazari for a new range of clothing made in the Dieselgear factory in Harare, Zimbabwe. Zambezi Traveller was privileged to preview the fully co-ordinated range of

Models presenting a range of Khaki clothing by Mazari ladies and men’s outdoor apparel which is wholly designed and manufactured in Africa. Classic styles ensure that it is suitable for all ages and its flexibility and durability makes it suitable to be worn as corporate, casual or adventure wear.

All garments are made from 100% cotton twill or canvas in natural colour tones. A wrinkle-free and silicone treatment guarantees a quality finish and soft feel to the hand. Prints and checks complement the range which is totally mix and match with extensive stitch detail.

SAFARI AND ADVENTURE CLOTHING Diesel Gear 47 Craster Rd, Southerton, Harare, Zimbabwe. Ph: +263 4 620461. Email: mazari@dieselgear.co.zw

N Tselentis pvt ltd,

46 Kaguvi St, Harare, Zimbabwe. Ph: +263 4 790 210. Email: harry@tselentisgroup.co.zw

Contact Details for Mazari

Arnie and Helen Howard, Diesel Gear, Harare, Zimbabwe. Mobile: 0772 525 635 Email: mazari@dieselgear.co.zw Stockists Zimbabwe Selected Bata Stores under the Batoka label Selected Truworth Stores

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Shearwater Victoria Falls. Experience the Big 5 on Shearwater’s private game reserve, just 12km from Victoria Falls town and enjoy seeing Africa’s rare black rhino. Contact Shearwater Central Reservations P.O. Box 125, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Tel:+263 (0) 13 44471-3, 42058, 400568 Fax:+263 (0) 13 44341 Cell:+263 (0) 712 406 668, +263 (0) 773 461 716 reservations@shearwatervf.com

Lorries B&B, Victoria Falls. Full English Breakfast. Ensuite Rooms. Home cooked dinners. Your home away from home. Phone: +263 (0) 13 42139 or +263 (0) 712 406 584. Email: lorrie@mweb.co.zw. 10% discount on production of this advertisement.

catering for functions. Specialises in snacks and Indian dinners. Call Anju and Barry Nathoo on +263 (0) 13 40527/42348. Cell: +263 (0) 712 212 255/+263 (0) 775 121 406. Email: khemhim@yoafrica.com

Zambezi Trading. For all your fresh fruit and vegetables. We can supply hotels and lodges. Fresh produce in stock daily. Located 283 Holland Rd, Industrial area, between Swift and Jaggers. For orders call +263 (0) 13 42237/44008/9. Mobile: +263 (0) 772 399 779 or +263 (0) 913 462 343

The Victoria Falls Hotel. ***** Situated on a world heritage site, the legendary Victoria Falls Hotel overlooks the magnificent falls. This gracious 1904 hotel is set in lush tropical gardens that recall the romance of days gone by. Contact Sales and Marketing Manager. Email: marketing@tvfh.africansun.co.zw. Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44751/9

Mosi-Ua-Tunya B&B, six ensuite rooms, air conditioned, and additional family accommodation available. Located 603 Mahogany Road. Reservations call: +263 (0) 13 44336, email moslodge@yoafrica. com, cell +263 (0)772 462 837. Pumusha Lodge, B&B. Contact +263 (0) 13 44367. www.pumusha.com

The Zambezi Helicopter Company. View the vastness of the Victoria Falls and it’s surrounds the best way! Take a helicopter flip and enjoy the magnificent splendour of the Zambezi River and it’s Falls. Contact The Zambezi Helicopter Company, Box 125, Zimbabwe. Tel +263 (0) 13 43569, cell: +263 (0) 773 080 909, +263 (0) 712 324 422. Tel/fax: +263 13 40059. Email: zhc. reser vations@highestec.co.z w. Skype: zambezihelicopters Web site: www.zambezihelicopters.com

Tokkie Lodge, your home from home whilst travelling. Contact +263 (0) 43306 or +263 (0) 772817498. Email: reservations@ tokkielodge.co.zw

Once a month a number of Victoria Falls residents put together ‘goodie parcels’ with a few luxuries, mostly necessities for elderly people in the community that are struggling to make ends meet. Anyone wishing to contribute to this can email Cathrina Gover: gover@yoafrica.com and Mel Hudson: hudsons@yoafrica.com Rotary Club of Victoria Falls meets every Thursday at Ilala Lodge between 1:00pm and 2:00pm. For further information please contact our club president Victor Mupanguri on +263 (0) 772 126 904 or Anne Taggart, our club secretary on +263 (0)772 254 552.

Victoria Falls Adventure Zone Canoeing - Wine Route, Half Day, Full Day, Overnight & 2.5 Day trips.

Traditional authentic lunches and dinners in the heart of the Victoria Falls community.

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Tyress Beauty & Health Salon. Manicures . Pedicures . Ar tificial Nails . Facials . Make-up . Massages . Waxing . Tweezing . Braiding . Body Scrub. For all your relaxation & body treatments. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Cell: +263 772 607 940, email: leomarowa@gmail.com

Blue Baboon Cafe - wood fired pizzas, juicy burgers, healthy salads and more. Free delivery in and around Victoria Falls. Call +263 (0) 713151 070 or +263 (0) 772713577

Booking Agents

Stone Dynamics Gallery, The Victoria Falls Hotel. Home to Zimbabwe’s world renowned stone sculptures. For further information contact Stuart Danks, director, email: artafrica@bluewin.ch The Larry Norton Gallery. Original and reproduced fine art wildlife and landscape images available from this renowned artist. Visit this superb gallery in the historical Victoria Falls Hotel. You will find us in the Stables Lounge. Phone: +263 (0) 772 606 233 and +263 (0) 13 40076. Email: info@larrynorton.co.za and website: www.larrynorton.co.za

B&B Good Memories Self Catering Lodges. Conveniently located right in town, above Explorers Bar, rooms have twin beds, TV, ceiling fans and kitchen. US$23 for a double room. Email: goodlodge@yoafrica. com or info@goodmemories.co.zw Telephone: +263 (0) 13 41201; +263 (0) 712 405 882

Spotless Laundry Services at Victoria Falls Restcamp, Lodge 17. Open daily. Contact +262 (0) 4050911 or +263 (0)772 347687

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Hardware Zone, Victoria Falls for all your electrical, plumbing, painting and building requirements. Phone +263 (0) 13 42202, cell +263 (0)773 255 788, 426 Pioneer Road, Industrial Area

Victoria Falls Pharmacy shop No.3 Phumula Centre, close to Chicken Inn complex. Tel +263 (0) 13 44403, after hours cell: +263 (0) 712 4051269/+263 (0) 712 405 270.

Horseriding Safaris

Repairs and Workshops J and M Motors. For all vehicle repairs and breakdown services, mechanical & electrical. Wankie Motors Transport, domestic and International. Located: 1369 Pioneer Road, Victoria Falls, Industrial Area. Tel: +263 (0) 13 42092 Fax: +263 (0) 13 43516, mobile John +263 (0) 712 612 315, Mike +263 (0) 712 606 977.

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Savanna Wood – hardwood furniture, decking & flooring. For Camps, Lodges & homes. We export worldwide. Factory: 452 Miles Road Victoria Falls, telephone +263 (0) 13 44495. www.savannawood.com

Cultural Activities

Call Tsitsi on +263 (0) 776 144 080, Flatter on +263 (0) 712 926 678. Email : muposiwa_tsitsi@yahoo.com

Wild Horizons is a “one-stop’ activity provider offering a range of tours and activities including rafting, canoeing, elephant back safaris and high wire activities. Email: info@ wildhorizons.co.zw

Furniture

Victoria Falls Tourism Police Unit. A donar funded initiative between private and public sector in conjunction with the Zimbabwe Republic Police to ensure a safe environment for visitors and local residents within the Victoria Falls tourism area. Anyone wishing to assist in sponsoring one or more of the dedicated Tourism Police Officers please contact Kevin Fry +263 (0) 712 312 530

Vic Falls Adventure Zone White Water Rafting - Half Day, Full, Overnights, 2.5 Day and 5 Day trips.

Vic Falls Adventure Zone Elephant Back Safaris, Lion Encounter, Tours & Transfers, Sales booking office for all other activities in town. Contact: info@adventurezonevicfalls.com or groups@adventurezonevicfalls.com, Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44424/42051.

Charities

ph: 42847; 0772 313270; 0712 292228

Hotels & Safari Lodges Elephant Camp. The Elephant Camp is a luxury and intimate lodge under canvas only 10 minutes from Victoria Falls and all it’s attractions and activities, yet secluded in it’s own private game reserve so as to allow close up encounters with wildlife. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge. Located in the Matetsi Safari Area with 14km of Zambezi river frontage Imbabala is reknowned for it’s game viewing and bird watching Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571,44426. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw. www.wildhorizons.co.za

Garden Island Restaurant, Elephant`s Walk Shopping Village. Gourmet coffee, cakes, wholesome, freshly prepared meals. Group bookings accepted for evenings. Contact email: btinc@iwayafrica. co.zw, cell: +263 (0) 713151070, +263 (0) 772897845, +263 (0) 77 2 713577. Jin’s Chinese Restaurant, 571 Nyathi Rd, (APG Lodge). Contact +263 (0) 773663810 or +263 (0) 773874874 for bookings. The Victoria Falls Hotel : Stanley’s Terrace, cosmopolitan lunch The Victoria Falls Hotel: Livingstone Room, fine dining with a 7 course menu. The Victoria Falls Hotel: Jungle Junction, international buffet and African Spectacular show. For bookings, contact +263 (0) 44751/9, email : marketing@tvfh.africansun. co.zw.

Restcamps

Self-Catering Accommodation seperate shower/toilet. Open plan lounge/dining kitchen. Full DSTV, secure parking, private garden with BBQ. Contact: tours@agentsafrica. com. Tel: +263 (0) 13 43106.

Specialist Guide Specialist Safari Guide – for keen wildlife enthusiast. Walking safaris, bird-watching trips, game drives, night drives in the Zambezi National Park and more! Contact Discover Safaris on email: cat@yoafrica.com, tel: + 263 (0) 13 45821 or cell: + 263 (0) 712 209 144

Leon Varley WALKING SAFARIS

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in Hwange, Chizarira & Gonarezou National Parks. Phone: (013) 42208 OR +263 (0) 712 404 968 Email: leon@backpackers.co.zw OR mags@backpackers.co.zw www.walkafrica.com

Specialist Tour Operator Zambezi Safari & Travel Co.

Registered in the UK and ATOL protected, have a Professional Guide and Safari consultant based in Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. We have 28 years of on hand experience on the ground here. Contact Chris Worden, professional guide/director. www. zambezi.com. www.bushcamps. com. www.luangwa.net. Email: chris@zambezi.com. Tel: 44 (0) 1548 830059 (UK head office) +263 (0) 13 44427 (Victoria Falls office). Cell: +263 (0) 774 109581. Skype: zambezi_chris. ATOL protected: licence number 10135.

Thatching Grass Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell: +263 (0) 777 560 856 or landline +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: derekdianawilk@ mango.zw or wilkinson.diana@ yahoo.com or contact local agent, John Dewdney +263 (0) 13 44645 or +263 (0)775901534

Tour Operators

PEARLS TOURS

For all your transfers, guided tours, travel assistance, accommodation bookings in and around Victoria Falls, contact us on +263 (0) 712 708 204, +263 (0) 13 44576, email:pearls@iwayafrica.co.z w

Cafes and Coffee Shops

Fishing & Fisherman

African Hide Cafe. Victoria Falls’s only outdoor cafe. Open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunches and dinner. Selection of freshly baked muffins and cakes. Located just up from the railway line, opposite the Municipality. Tel: +263 (0) 13 42994.

Fishermen flystreamers for sale,

Catering Services

rods repaired. Call Tim +263 (0) 712 208 374

For Numismatists, Antique Coins 1940

King

George

Southern

Rhodesia penny, 1942 King George Delicious Indian Cuisine. Seventh Heaven Foods (Pvt) Ltd. 523 Reynard Rd, Victoria Falls. Take-aways,

Southern Rhodesia tickie. joseph.murinda@yahoo.com

Email:

The Kingdom at Victoria Falls. Enter the Legendary world of the Kingdom at Victoria Falls. A modern tribute to Africa’s ancient allure and the closest hotel to the actual falls, situated within the Victoria Falls national Park. The Whitewaters Restaurant an open air Restaurant is situated next to a small manmade lake with indigenous flora which adds to your experience to Zimbabwe and the ambience of the Kingdom at Victoria Falls .Open for Buffet Breakfast and Dinner. For bookings contact+2631344275-9. Email: reservations@kingdom. africansun.co.zw

Victoria Falls Restcamp. Situated in the town centre offers affordable, safe accommodation. Includes self catering lodges, chalets, dormitories, semi luxury tents and camping. Along with a tours & internet desk & In-da-Belly Restaurant. Tel: + 263 13 40509 - 11. Email: campsite@ africaonline.co.zw

Self-Catering Accommodation Self Catering Accommodation Victoria Falls. ‘The Cottage’ offers the following: 3 Bedrooms with air con, main b/room with en-suite, plus

Advertising Contact

Frances Jackson fjackson@iwayafrica.com Cell: +263 (0) 712 208 370 Teddy Brightman teddy@yoafrica.com Cell: +263 (0) 712 217178

Hwange on your way to the Zambezi

The Hwange Lion Research Project By Pete Roberts

wange National Park is home to one of Africa’s largest and longest running wild lion scientific research projects. Whilst in recent years the tourist towns of Victoria Falls and Livingstone have developed a reputation for captive lion ‘interactions,’ Hwange is where lions truly run wild, and where, if you are walking in the bush, you really should watch your back. The Hwange Lion Research Project, established by Dr Andrew Loveridge in 1999, is run in partnership with the Parks and Wildlife Management Authority Zimbabwe and Oxford University Wildlife Conservation Research Unit. A small team of dedicated researchers based at Main Camp spend almost every waking hour collecting and analyzing data on the Park’s lions. The aims of the project are to gain an understanding of the impacts of trophy hunting and other anthropogenic mortality on local lion populations. Much of the Park is surrounded by trophy hunting concessions which form a buffer between it and communal areas. Data collected by the Hwange Lion Research team showed that most of the lions hunted in this area were being drawn from the Park, creating a vacuum effect which encouraged more male lions

to move out of the Park itself and into the sights of the hunters. As a direct result of the research carried out by Dr Loveridge, local stakeholders came to the consensus that lion trophy hunting quotas in the area were too high and that a temporary reduction or cessation of hunting was necessary. The Gwaai ICA (Intensive Conservation Area) voluntarily imposed this restriction in 2004 and a more widespread hunting restriction was implemented in 2005 after discussion with the Parks Authority. More recently, the project has studied conflict between people and lions. In 2007 investigations began into the extent to which lions impact the livelihood of subsistence farmers living on the boundary of the Park. Firstly, lions may impact people through the killing of livestock, and secondly these people may in turn impact the conservation status of the species through retaliatory but illegal hunting and killing of lions. It is anticipated that the results of this work will help future management of conflict issues, with benefits for both local farmers and lion populations. Zambezi Travveller will examine this story in more detail in future issues.

Art on safari Conser vation Sue Cotrell painting By ZT Correspondent

ell-known Zimbabwean artist, Sue Cottrell, has decided to bring together her passion for wildlife and the bush and her experience as a painter by leading art safaris. “As an experienced artist and art teacher and having worked in many disciplines, I can offer tuition in drawing a wide variety of subjects, as well as painting in

acrylics, inks, pastels and watercolours,” Sue told Zambezi Traveller. “Clients can learn various ways to print and use collage to achieve interesting and original results. We can work experimentally on many kinds of paper as well as board and canvas. “I personally spend as much time as possible in wild locations watching nature unfold, which is always rewarding, and is the inspiration for my own best work. Our art safaris will be adventures in some of the most wild and beautiful locations in Africa. We can explore our surrounds, absorb the views, watch the wildlife and see the minutiae around us. “Each day we will aim to learn something new about our destination, about art, and inevitably about ourselves.”

FACT FILE Lion populations in Africa have declined drastically in the last few decades and there may be as few as 20,000 lions remaining in the whole of Africa. Over the last 25 years, human populations have dramatically increased, whilst wild areas have correspondingly diminished. Lions are currently classified as ‘Vulnerable’ by the World Conservation Union (IUCN). Key threats to lion populations include overexploitation (trophy hunting), conflict with livestock owners and loss of habitat and prey populations due to agricultural land-use expansion. The Hwange population is contiguous with that in the Matetsi Safari Area, Kazuma Pan and Zambezi National Park in Zimbabwe, as well as protected areas in neighbouring states. This regional population is thus of great importance in the conservation of the species.

PHOTO: TOM VARLEY

Wild on Comfort

A lifestyle in Hwange communities

By Peter Blinston

ainted Dog Conservation organization established what it refers to as Conservation Clubs in 2009. Aimed at the local school children as an extension of our successful Iganyana Children’s Bush Camp programme, the clubs undertake both practical and theoretical exercises such as tree planting, clean up campaigns, drama and poetry performances. The clubs have proven to be hugely popular, providing the children with stimulating activities, which benefit their communities at large. Conservation Club gardening projects use biological farming in their permaculture gardening project so as to preserve habitats for micro-organisms. Through raising tree seedlings, tree planting and gully reclamation they cater for the habitat of macro organisms and bigger mammals within the school premises and communities. Communities with well established Conservation Clubs running within their local schools have also benefited as recipients of live fencing and vegetable seedlings as well tree seedlings raised by these Conservation Clubs, and such communities have embarked on re-forestation projects as well as nutritional gardening. Since one of the objectives of Conservation Clubs is to educate people on the importance of conserving natural Continued on page 18

Our informative Visitors Centre, situated opposite Hwange Airport is open seven days a week

reservations@thehide.co.zw Tel: (263-4) 498835/6

www.thehide.com

Mobile: (263-71) 2602 380

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Travellers Friend

The Zambezi Traveller

Ingonyama Dance and Drama group

By Jo Brown

or any traveller, particularly in Africa, attending traditional dance shows has become cliché, and interest has markedly dwindled in recent years. Tourists have less spare time, more travel destinations, and an unlimited source of information on the web, making them discerning and selective. To capture their attention requires something out of the ordinary, and that is exactly what Ingonyama Dance and Drama group provides. They take the traditional and make it unique, transforming the stories of Africa into something that lingers in your soul. Their repertoire is extensive, from age old routines to

Country

pounding gumboot dances. As a seasoned (and I’m afraid rather hardened) traditional dance routine observer, I was rapidly drawn into the magic of the Animal Dance. Something in the throbbing beat, fluid movements and powerful voices utterly entranced the entire audience for an hour. The gumboot dance is equally irresistible. Its impossible to ignore the toe tapping, knee bouncing, elbow jiving pulse, and before you know it, the most conservative of folk are up on stage joining in the fun with the troupe. Fortunately, the dancers have true African friendliness and a sense of humour, otherwise they could possibly collapse with mirth at the alarming lack of co ordination and rhythm of most visitors. They welcome all into the fray, making it a night to remember. Its not all fun and games though, as the dancers also

Ingonyama traditonal dances in their costumes have education foremost in mind. They travel extensively performing for children throughout the country, teaching them the value of wildlife preservation and protection of our fragile eco systems. Their unique approach captures the children’s attention, and ensures that the age old dances taught from generation to generation are preserved. The dancers performed at at

HIFA (Harare International Festival of the Arts) which is a highly acclaimed event held annually, hosting artists of every description from all over the world.

The Ingoyama Dance Group performs on request, and bookings can be made with Wendy Blakely on pdcwendy@mweb.co.zw or telephone 018 475

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Continued from page 17 resources through drama and poetry, conservation clubs have performed in various gatherings like the Independence Day Celebration, launch of the fire management campaign by the Forestry Commission and other special School days like speech and prize giving day. The latter is viewed as really important as the children active in the conservation clubs are “teaching” their peers and parents. Driven by the aim to develop love for nature among club members, nature corners have been given the highest priority as an indoor project for conservation clubs, and these will in turn develop into “Bio Parks”, which will hopefully lead to reclamation of most habitats within community surroundings.

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Conservation: A life style in Hwange communities

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VISA FEES

Single entry: $50, Double entry: $80, Multiple entry: $80.00, Transit: $50.00, Day Tripper: $20

Toll Fee (RTSA): To Livingstone: USD10.00 Rest of Zambia: USD20.00

Medical Requirements (for the above mentioned countries) Polio shots are recommended

Hepatitis A & B recommended

Typhoid recommended

Please visit your doctor before you travel. The above mentioned are just recommendations.

Notes

NOTE: Children under the age of 5 can visit park for free. Children aged 5 -13 years old pay 50%

BOTSWANA Park

25 Pula – ($4)

Malaria precautions are advised

Park

- Vehicle charges for passenger cars only. Other fees may apply. - Information for tourists only. Different requirements for business travelers. - Information valid on 01 March , 2011 DISCLAIMER: Information above can change at short notice. Information taken from the countries web sites as at end of February.

Botswana Citizen

Botswana Resident

Other

Vehicle Under 3500kg - Private BOTS Registered -10 Pula Foreign Registered –50 Pula Between 3500kg-7000kg - Private BOTS Registered -500 Pula Foreign Registered –1000 Pula Over 7000kg - Private BOTS Registered -800 Pula Foreign Registered –1500 Pula

10P ($1.50)

30P ($4.50)

120P ($18)

ADULTS 18 years and above

10.00 per day

30.00 per day

120.00 per day

CHILDREN 8-17 years inclusive

5.00 per day

15.00 per day

60.00 per day

NOTE: Children under the age of 8 can visit park for free. Children aged 8 -18 years old pay 50%

ZIMBABWE Park

Locals

SADC Residents

Other

Vehicles

Rainforest

$20

$30

Zim Residents - $5 Non-Zim Residents - $10

Rainforest Lunar

$15

$50

Other Parks

$12

$15

NOTE: Children under the age of 6 can visit park for free. Children aged 6 -12 years old pay 50% DISCLAIMER: Information above can change at short notice. Information taken from the countries web sites as at end of February.

Historic lodge reopens in Luangwa B

PHOTO: LINDSAY HOVELL

Lion in front of Chichele

uilt in the 1970’s as a private retreat for Zambia’s thenpresident Kenneth Kaunda, Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge in South Luangwa reopened its doors to guests once again on 1 February. Kaunda had a keen interest in wildlife and chose the prime location for his lodge on a hilltop with views over the lush valley below, stretching to the Luangwa River. The property has been extensively renovated, including a complete replacement of the roof

structure. Ten suites have been redeveloped to the standard expected by today’s discerning international traveller, and come complete with four-poster bed, air conditioning, luxurious bathroom and private veranda. Decor is classic and understated, in keeping with the lodge’s past as a retreat for the president and his dignitary and celebrity guests. Game viewing in the South Luangwa is considered among the best in Zambia and rivals that

anywhere in Africa. Guests at Sanctuary Chichele can take both day and night game drives, providing the opportunity to encounter animals that are rarely seen before dusk, including leopard, hyena and bush babies. South Luangwa is also famous for its walking safaris, conducted by a professional guide and an armed Parks scout. On foot, Sanctuary’s guides can show guests some of the fascinating things which are hard to spot from a vehicle. Sanctuary Chichele is now accepting children of

all ages and offers a new interconnecting suite as well as two triple rooms for families. The historic property is open year round. A special opening offer of three nights at the lodge for the price of two is currently running. The Sanctuary portfolio also includes safari camps and lodges in Botswana, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Zambia, as well as expedition cruise ships on the Nile, Yangzi and Galapagos Islands. Visit www.sanctuaryretreats.com

Munyamadzi corridor. To the east, between the two main parks is another small and as yet undeveloped park called Luambe. Further east on the rocky uplands beyond the flood plain is the Lukusuzi National Park,

also undeveloped, but plans are in the pipeline. In future issues Zambezi Traveller will be bringing you more information on what is offer in one of Africa’s great river valleys.

Introducing the Luangwa

A mighty tributary of the Zambezi

he Luangwa Valley is one of Africa’s prime wildlife sanctuaries, with concentrations and varieties of game and birdlife that have made it world famous. This is the landscape of herds of antelope sheltering under thorn trees, elephant roaming the plains, and predators skulking in the shadows - primordial drama. The now-famous guided walking safari originated in the Luangwa.

Down the centre of the valley flows the Luangwa River, fed by dozens of sandy rivers that flow only during the rainy season. The Luangwa itself flows into Zambezi, carving a tortuous twisted course on its way. When in flood the flowing waters rapidly erode the outer bends, while depositing silt on the inside of the curves. The loop becomes ever more exaggerated until it joins

at the neck, cutting a new shorter course, and leaving the old to form an isolated ‘ox bow’ lagoon. These lagoons are important to the ecology of the riverine zone and account for the high carrying capacity of the area. The Luangwa River is believed to have the highest density of hippo in Africa. The countryside is spectacular in its rugged beauty, the vegetation thick

Hippo country and, near the river and its many tributaries, a lush riverine forest occurs that is green all year round. Flanking the western banks are North and South Luangwa National Parks, separated by the 30 kms

Luxury, naturally Lodges and safari camps immersed in their natural landscapes

Extraordinary safari camps and lodges Botswana: Sanctuary Chief’s Camp, Moremi Game Reserve Sanctuary Baines’ Camp and Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp, Okavango Delta Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero, Chobe National Park www.sanctuaryretreats.com

Zambia: Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma, Livingstone Sanctuary Puku Ridge Camp and Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge, South Luangwa National Park, Sanctuary Zambezi Kulefu Camp, Lower Zambezi National Park Sanctuary Zebra Plains, Walking Safari Camp

Bags of difference – literally! By Linda Wilkinson

an something so simple, so common as a handbag make a measurable difference in the life of a widow suffering from HIV/Aids? Chikumbuso Project has shown how much difference it can make. In English, Chikumbuso means remembrance; remembering those who have died, remembering where we came from, and remembering to do for others. Back in the early days of Chikumbuso when the women were just developing their skills at crocheting and making bags from recycled plastic, even they found it hard to believe. But, they had an incredible willingness to learn and they needed to change their lives. In the early bags there was an effort at pattern, and it looked like a bag, with straps, albeit crooked, skinny straps. But the women didn’t give up and in fact, were surrounded by women who encouraged them by buying their bags. The ladies honed their craft. Their stitches became stronger and tighter. Their understanding of how colours worked together improved as they watched which bags sold more quickly. Volunteers came and taught classes on new designs and expanded their ideas. Bags soon started to be made in all sorts of sizes, all sorts of shapes. Patterns emerged, then flowers and complicated decorations of beads and bones. As their skills and sales improved, so did everything else in the lives of these women. They were eating every day as

Environmentally friendly bags made from recycled materials

were the children in their care. Their homes were improved providing safer shelter, their children were able to go to school and they all had health cards for the clinic. They became an accepted part of a community and could tell their stories - their hard, sad stories of suffering and stigmatization - and find friendship and common ground in their suffering. They were able to lift their heads up in their community and become lights of hope to neighbors - fulfilling the mission of Chikumbuso, remembering to do for others. Doing for others was and is the inspiration at the heart of what goes on at Chikumbuso. The women needed a place to be in the community, so a place was purchased for them. Children were in need of education, thus a school was started. Young, single mothers couldn’t find employment and the tailoring project began. Grandmothers in Ng’ombe were finding it nearly impossible to feed themselves and their large families of orphans, so Chikumbuso became the conduit for sponsorship of grandmothers. Young men were loitering around the compound in need of work, so the tailoring group expanded to include them. All these things - done on the difference made by a handbag. Linda Wilkinson is Founder, Chikumbuso Women and Orphans Project. Visit www.chikumbuso.com

Christmas show in Lusaka

Zambia’s tourism showcase By Carol White

he fourth annual Zambia International Travel Expo (ZITE) is being held in Lusaka, at

the Mulungushi Conference Centre, from the 24-26th March, 2011. ZITE is managed and run by Africast Exhibition Management and endorsed by the Zambia

Tack Toria DE SIGN E RS

Opening Hours Mon - Fri 12:00 - 22:00 Sunday 12:00 - 17:00 26 Chaholi Rd Rhodes Park Lusaka, Zambia Tel: 0026 0211 253639 0026 0977 856040 E-mail: gerritz@iconnect.zm www.gerritz-restaurant.com

Tailor-made Designer Mosquito Nets for Lodges, Tented Camps, Private Homes Specialise in Mosquito nets, Maid Uniforms, Waiter Shirts, Children’s Duvet Sets. Other items made upon request. Cheaper than all major outlets. Email: tacktoria@gmail.com Phone: + 260 977782167

Tourism Board and Zambia Tourism Council. ZITE is the only tourism exhibition in Zambia that brings together a wide representation of Zambian products, showcasing Zambia as a destination for tourist and business travellers. ZITE attracts exhibitors from the region, with Botswana, Kenya and Zimbabwe being ardent supporters. This creates opportunities to package regional products for regional and international markets. Tremendous investment opportunities are available in tourism in Zambia and the time is right to explore these. ZITE is the perfect platform for tour operators to expand their knowledge about Zambia and to meet operators personally. Visits to the Lusaka hotels and lodges can be arranged and pre-meetings can be set up. Contact: info@africast.com.zm www.africastzambia.com.

Agriculture in Africa its own attraction

Canadians visiting a beef farm in Zambia By Jonathan Kabili Vast tracts of under-utilised arable land, a good climate for agriculture and extensive water, resources have brought Zambia into focus

as a potential source of foodstuffs – in turn, resulting in an increased interest from agri-tourists. Agricultural tours the world over combine visits to relevant farming or livestock operations of

interest with local cultural or visitor attractions. This combination, when delivered by professionals with expertise in both agriculture and in managing tours and travel, is facilitated by Agricultural Tour Operators International. ATOI is an association of tour operators with specialist offerings for farmers, researchers and agri-business professionals. ATOI seeks to ensure professionalism and quality wherever agricultural tourism is offered. ZAMAG Tours and Safaris, has been a member of ATOI in Zimbabwe and Zambia for many years. Continued on page 24

Zambezi News

livingstone TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River

Plant Encounters

Walk With Weeds Bidens pilosa, commonly known as black jack

By Evelyn Roe

eed is not really a botanical term. Rather, it shows that people don’t want a particular plant around but I love weeds! They are opportunists, fast colonisers of open ground, often healing damaged soils. Many weeds have medicinal properties for us, too. Here are three top weeds found in our area. Bidens pilosa, good old blackjack! The leaves can be eaten as relish, but their main power lies in antibiotic and anticancer properties. Extracts test

positively against TB, ear infections, Candida albicans, and prostategland tumours; and leaf infusions treat abdominal ailments, such as worms and constipation. [See photographs of Bidens pilosa.] Wild foxglove, Ceratotheca triloba, is a perennial weed of the sesame family, Pedaliaceae. An infusion of leaves relieves diarrhoea, flatulence, colic, nausea and menstrual cramps. [See photographs of Ceratotheca triloba.] Last, but by no means least, asthma weed,

Wild foxglove, Ceratotheca triloba

Euphorbia hirta (also called Chamaesyce hirta). This humble weed has been hailed by the WHO as one of Africa’s top three medicinal plants. It is registered in the African Pharmacopoeia (OAU, 1985), and is widely used in herbal medicine across Africa and Asia. [See photographs of Euphorbia hirta.]

It grows in sunny spots, often near villages, 30-40cm tall, sometimes trailing on the ground. Its distinguishing features are milky sap which appears when you break the stem; opposite leaves with toothed margins; stems with tiny, stiff, yellow hairs; and small, greenish flowers. Here are some of the

They are opportunists, fast colonisers of open ground, often healing damaged soils. Many weeds have medicinal properties for us, too.

Euphorbia hirta (also called Chamaesyce hirta).

ailments treated effectively with Euphorbia hirta: Amoeba dysentery, cholera, urinary tract and kidney infections, diarrhoea, intestinal worms, asthma, cataracts, and warts. Note that all plant remedies should be prepared by an expert. However, one can learn how to use and cultivate a range of medicinal plants for home use, safely and hygienically. We have wild gardens of medicinal herbs along our roads, and in towns and villages, but the knowledge needs to be shared. Please

feel free to contact me for further information on this topic, or on any other botanical matter. Evelyn Rose studied botany at the University of Edinburgh and now works as a field researcher with the North-West Naturalist’ Society of Zambia. She is currently conducting ethnobotanical research into the uses of wild plants in our area. Look for her book Wild Flowers of Victoria Falls in local bookshops or email roe. evelyn@gmail.com

Priceless memories made to the tune of rolling thunder. www.suninternational.com

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Waterbird count monitors habitat change By Clare Mateke,

Livingstone Museum

n January 2011 a team of researchers from Livingstone Museum carried out a census of water birds along the Zambezi River upriver from the Victoria Falls. This census is carried out twice a year in January and July and has been done continuously for the past 16 years. A distance of about 10km is covered, from the Victoria Falls upriver almost to the end of the Mosi-o-Tunya Zoological Park. The count, which takes four days, also includes a small part of the Maramba River that flows into the Zambezi, and the Livingstone Sewage Ponds. The counts are part of the African Waterbird Census co-ordinated by Wetlands International. Waterbirds include all birds that live in or near water and are dependent on wetlands for their survival. There are several reasons for counting water birds. One is to give an idea of how many different species of waterbirds live in an area of wetland. But a more important reason is an assessment of the state of the wetland. The number and diversity of waterbirds at a wetland can give an indication of the changing state of the environment, which may be caused by pollution, human encroachment or tourism activities. Resident breeding birds are usually the most affected. The first part of the count involved walking along the Zambezi River from just upriver of the Sun Hotel complex. Water birds are much easier to count and identify than woodland birds because they are generally large, with bright, contrasting colours, fairly noisy, and slow movers. One or two mistakes are not significant; what is more important is the comparison of the results from one year to the next, using the same methods. As usual on this stretch we recorded a lot of Reed Cormorants. These are slender black or brown birds which perch on rocks and spend a lot of time swimming and catching fish. They are probably the most commonly seen water bird along this stretch of the Zambezi. Darters are similar, both in appearance and behaviour, but are larger, with longer bodies and beaks. The elusive Green-backed Heron can be seen darting out from undergrowth at particular places, we have become familliar with where they like hiding. The little Pied Kingfishers are frequently seen hovering over the

Water Dikkop

Todd Johnson, Terry Nyambe, Fidelity Phiri, Joreck Chishika

become very overgrown with Lantana thicket and other plants, and is quite difficult to penetrate, even on foot. A third part of the count is the fenced part of the Mosi-o-tunya National Park. This often takes the longest, and in the last few years of heavy rainfall, has tended to produce the

highest count of water bird species and numbers. This year was no exception with large numbers of Cattle Egrets, Open-billed Storks and White-faced Ducks. The latter two species were found not by the river but out on the waterlogged plains. The numbers of Openbilled Storks have been increasing over the last few years, becoming almost as common as reed cormorants, which they were in the mid 1990s. They are even seen around town regularly. In one area close to the road, where there is a small stream with overhanging trees, we saw five different species of

kingfisher, as well as several Green-Backed Herons and egrets. The sand banks in the river yielded nearly 30 Sacred Ibis and a number of Egyptian Geese. Overall we recorded over 350 birds of 24 species on this day. The last part of the count is the Livingstone Sewage Ponds, off Sichanga Road and backing on to the park fence. The first and largest pond, as usual, had a large number of Cattle Egret taking a rest on the water hyacinth that covers it, while Lesser Gallinules, Moorhens and Black Crakes could be seen popping their heads up and down among Continued on page 27

Bamboo bikes prove ideal for bush rides

Todd Johnson, Joreck Chishika, Kawana Munalula water looking until taking out for a good But a more flight, when they catch. On the brightly important were sand banks in the marked and river we saw the reason is an called loudly. It usual few Whiteis always exciting crowned Plovers assessment of to find the tiny (Lapwings). And the state of the orange and then there are blue Malachite wetland. always the egrets, Kingfisher, and white birds of we managed to which the various find one on this species are differentiated count. The day’s counting from each other by their ended at the point where size and colour of beak and the Maramba River joins legs. the Zambezi. We spotted a Fish Eagle On the second day we way over on the Zimbabwe counted from the mouth of side of the river, and looking the Maramba River up to carefully with binoculars, the bridge. This year we we managed to find a few covered the route on foot, Common Sandpipers and which took just over an hour Water Dikkops, the latter and only produced sightings being well camouflaged of about 13 birds. It has

Guests enjoying their bamboo bike experience By Gill Staden

slands of Siankaba, a luxury island lodge about 40 kms from Livingstone, has found a unique new guest activity – taking a ride on a bamboo bicycle! Zambikes are made in Lusaka with frames of bamboo – a plant that grows well in Zambia in well-watered areas. The lodge management decided the bikes would be ideal for guests who wanted to take a short bush ride. Now the bikes are used morning and afternoon to visit nearby community projects supported by Siankaba, including the school, the maize mill and the clinic. “It has become a real Zambian experience to ride a bamboo bike,” said a spokesperson for the Lodge. “And our guests love to meet the children in the school and see people going about their daily lives in rural Zambia.” The bamboo is cut, cured and then carefully honed to make the bicycle frame in the Zambikes workshop in Lusaka. Other bike parts – wheels, gears, pedals, etc, are then added to produce one of the strongest bikes on the market, with a flexible frame suitable for rural Zambian conditions. Set on two islands, Siankaba overlooks a wide stretch of the Zambezi River with the Zambezi National Park on the opposite bank in Zimbabwe. The islands are covered with thick indigenous woodland within which seven chalets are secluded. Rooms are reached via raised wooden decking and the islands are joined by a feature rope and timber bridge.

Exquisite river views www.siankaba.net

Only 40 minutes from Victoria Falls Contact your Local Travel Agent or info@siankaba.net Tel: 0211 260 279 / 0977 720530

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Breaking new ground with Meet the CSI Man awards and social projects in Livingstone By ZT Correspondent

he Royal Livingstone Hotel has been named one of the hundred best hotels in the world, according to Travel & Leisure Magazine’s ‘World’s Best Awards’ announced recently. The Royal Livingstone stands at number 67, registering its debut amongst the top 100 hotels in the world. “This is a great achievement and a wonderful start to the new year,” said Sun International Zambia general manager, Joanne Selby. “We have great pride in the product that we offer to our guests. We are grateful for this recognition and pledge our continued commitment to service excellence. To the team I say congratulations and thank you.” Travel & Leisure is a monthly travel publication with some five million readers. The magazine’s ‘World’s Best Awards’ is an annual reader survey that rates tourist destinations and tour operators as voted for by readers. Billed as “the definitive guide to the greatest hotels worldwide,” the Travel & Leisure 500 recognises the world’s top hotels, identifying special features and “don’t miss” experiences. Meanwhile, Sun International Zambia’s social investment programme reaped a return when the mushroom project that was launched this year in Maramba township produced its first crop. SIZ began the project in partnership with Agribusiness for African Plant Products (ASNAPP), bringing in experts from Stellenbosch University to teach women how to grow high quality mushrooms using safe and modern techniques. The initiative is aimed at empowering the women of Maramba township and their families with a sustainable livelihood, while at the same time providing the resort with fresh organic mushrooms. “I’m thrilled to see these vulnerable women and their children smiling,” said Selby. In another development, preparations have started for another agricultural empowerment project – bee keeping. SIZ will host the initial two beehives on which the community will be trained and equipped to start new beehives, which will then be rolled out to various sites around Livingstone. Beneficiaries of the project will be numerous, including those trained to make beehives, those engaged to specifically rear and tend the bees, and others marketing products which will include fresh honey, bee wax and propolis.

Save a Bottle – Save the Earth!

PHOTO: BAYNHAM GOREDEMA

By Dawna Johnson

e all frequently see tourists drinking from bottled water, and those bottles all get tossed into the trash. Imagine the accumulation over a year in Victoria Falls. The bottles then end up in landfills, which is not kind to the environment.

But we have all also been tourists ourselves and know that often there is no choice but to buy bottled water. In 2007 Wilderness Safaris bought 25,500 bottles of water for their guests to take with them on safari in hot weather. Most bottles are made from a crude oil derivative. Millions of barrels of oil and $100 billion is spent on the production

Toka Leya

VicToria FaLLs , LiVingsTone, Zambia

+26 0 2 16 0 08/9/10/11 zambia@wilderne s s.co.za www.wilderne s s-s afaris.com

of plastic bottles. While Wilderness tried to recycle the empty bottles, they estimated that 86% were still ending up in landfills. Not only was purchasing and transporting this water expensive, it was also creating an environmental issue. Wilderness knew they had to stop the wastage and started researching ideas. They invested in a water filtration and chiller system and then obtained reuseable sport water bottles as a gift for each guest. They put water dispensers in the lounges of each camp and encouraged guests to fill their own water bottle before each game activity. It worked! In 2009, 800 mineral water bottles were purchased, that is a 98% cutback. The landfill had 25,000 less water bottles in it, Wilderness saved money, and their guests contributed to keeping the environment clean!

By ZT Correspondent

n the streets of Livingstone, ‘CSI’ has nothing to do with solving crimes and everything to do with the welfare of the underprivileged. Meet Stain Mupeta Musungaila, popularly known as Mr CSI or, worse, ‘Chief Strawberry!’ Stain is the Corporate Social Investment Coordinator for Sun International Zambia. He is the personality and driving force behind dozens of social projects in the community. Stain has been with Sun International for nearly a decade. He began in management in the Food & Beverage Department at the resort between 2001 and 2004, and headed the CSI Committee as chairman. He was appointed full time CSI Coordinator in 2004. Amongst the first projects that he embarked on was the renovation of the children’s wards at Batoka hospital. He spearheaded a cleanup of Livingstone, moving street children into local

Mr Strawberry at St Josephs garden orphanages and involving members of the blind community, who previously begged in the town, in agricultural schemes to help them become economically active. During his tenure, Stain has strived to ensure the projects Sun International supported were sustainable. The town’s first HIV/ Aids hospice, St Josephs, was opened by Sun International and Rotary International to ensure care and dignity for the terminally ill. Currently, Stain is overseeing numerous projects ranging from agricultural schemes for

both the able-bodied and the blind, to worm and fish farming, support for orphanages, schools, housing and womens’ projects, and HIV/Aids and malaria programmes. Perhaps Stain’s main achievement has been the growth of a new mindset in the community where the people seek partnerships as opposed to waiting for handouts. “Sustainability is about empowerment,” said Stain. “People are being helped to become self reliant - this has been the greatest challenge for us. Together we have created a human face for big business.”

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Gemstones mined in Zambia

Gemstones are said to promote good health, abundance, prosperity, and career success. Their healing powers are reputed to help in recovery from addictions and with spiritual healing. What more reason to splurge on a diamond the next time those ‘flu symptoms occur?

Amethyst Amethyst is a variety of purple quartz and is a popular, inexpensive gemstone. It is found in many places in Zambia but major production is in the Mapatizya area in Kalomo, southern Zambia. These days high quality material is becoming rare.

Aquamarine

Emerald

Aquamarine is a blue, or bluegreen, variety of the mineral beryl. There are many varieties of beryl including emerald. Aquamarine is colored by trace amounts of iron in the crystal structure. Most gem aquamarines have been heat treated to enhance the color. It is found in eastern Zambia with colour varieties from double blue to light apple green.

Tourmaline

Emerald is the rich green variety of the mineral beryl, and it is a precious gemstone because of its rareness. The rich green color is caused by small amounts of chromium enhanced by traces of iron. Emeralds often contain inclusions and other flaws, considered part of the character of the gem, and used to assure the purchaser of the genuine stone.

Garnet

Tourmaline has a variety of colors. Usually, ironrich tourmalines are black to bluish-black to deep brown, while magnesium-rich varieties are brown to yellow, and lithium-rich tourmalines are almost any color. Rarely, it is colorless. Bi-colored and multicolored crystals are common, reflecting variations of fluid chemistry during crystallization. Some forms of tourmaline are dichroic, in that they change color when viewed from different directions. In Zambia, yellow, black , blue-green, pink, bi-color (rare) and green stones are found.

Gem garnets found in Zambia include red garnets and spessartite, an orange to red-brown variety, with some of the most productive garnet deposits in the world.

Other gemstones that have been found in Zambia include citrine, agate, opal, iolite, fluoride, white quartz, rose quartz and malachite.

Birthstones January

Garnet, Rose quartz

February

Amethyst, Onyx

March

Aquamarine

April

Diamond, Rock crystal, Quartz

May

Emerald , Chrysoprase

June

Alexandrite, Moonstone, Pearl

July

Ruby, Carnelian

August

Peridot, Sardonyx

September

Sapphire, Lapis

October

Opal, Tourmaline

November

Topaz, Citrine

December

Tanzanite, Zircon, Turquoise

Livingstone and MI5 – is there a connection? By Doug McClymont

ould fun-loving Livingstone and the British internal secret service organisation MI5 have a connection? To explain, one has to go back in history. In May 1910 a trooper from the British South Africa Police found himself posted to Victoria Falls in Southern Rhodesia, where he was nearly eaten by a lion while trying to rescue a hunter near Matetsi. Soon, he was promoted to corporal and spent much time showing tourists around the Falls. He is recorded as hearing the immortal words of an American tourist, “I guess Niagara is just perspiration!” While in Victoria Falls he was successfully interviewed for a post with the Northern Rhodesia Police, based in Livingstone, then the capital of Northern Rhodesia. He stayed here a year before being moved to the Congo border to escort the Anglo-Belge Boundary Commission, who were demarcating the border near the Copperbelt, as yet undiscovered. In this uncharted corner of Africa he caught malaria and eventually blackwater fever, and was invalided back to England. His luck continued as he met his future wife on the Gloucester Castle on his return to Africa. He was

Lt Sillitoe with the N.R.P. Mkushi detachment 1913 immediately tasked with opening a police post at Lusaka, “little more than a cluster of huts round a tiny hotel and a blacksmith’s shop for the repair of trek wagons.” In Lusaka he was struck by lightning, together with the Assistant Magistrate visiting from Chilanga! He reports on New Year’s Eve 1914 an Argyll motor car and a Triumph motorcycle, the first seen in Lusaka, storming into town. This was the Cape to Cairo Motor Expedition sponsored by the Daily Telegraph, led by Captain R.L. Kelsey with Pickersgill Cunliffe riding the motor cycle. The Expedition ended tragically when Kelsey was killed by a leopard in Serenje. When the First World War broke out he went north to fight von Lettow Vorbeck and the German forces. In 1918 he resigned his post with the police and returned

to the UK. He rose to the rank of Chief Constable in Sheffield, where he broke up the Mooney and Garvin gangs holding the city to ransom, and instituted the first forensic laboratory in the UK. Next he moved to Glasgow where he introduced the first flying squad and police wireless vans, clearing up the Glasgow gangs in the process. He became the Chief Constable of Kent and in 1947 was promoted to the head (Director General) of MI5. He retired in 1953 to become de Beer’s consultant on security in the mining industry. He died on 5 April 1962. Who was he? He was Trooper Sillitoe of the Northern Rhodesia Police, eventually Sir Percy Sillitoe KBE, Director General of MI5.

Agriculture in Africa its own Attraction Continued from page 19 “This region has a lot to offer agri-tourists,” Lindsay commented. “In addition to the opportunity to see both small-scale and commercial agricultural projects in the context of the global food concerns, guests can combine their trip with the opportunity to see the Falls and take a safari in one of the region’s fantastic national parks.” “It’s a combination that makes these itineraries all the more attractive – combining a professional interest with a Natural Wonder of the World and some incredible game viewing.” Visit www.atoi.org

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The African Finfoot

By Robert Stjernstedt The African finfoot is not really a rare bird; it is widely distributed throughout Africa, but it is shy and secretive, so is seldom seen. It likes wellvegetated wetlands, mainly

riverbanks and will utilize quite small rivers. It feeds along the waterline, pecking at small objects in an apparently unspecialized way, rather like a jacana

does. It is usually swimming, but often gets out and runs along the bank, showing its brilliant red legs and feet. It does eat small fish but only incidentally since it is not a fishing bird.

On Africa Time By Clare Mateke

isitors to Africa from overseas are often struck by the laid-back approach to time here. The Livingstone museum clock provides an apt metaphor, with the four faces of the turret clock presently showing different times. The clock is an iconic feature of Livingstone town, and was the first of its kind

in Zambia. It was a gift to the town in 1951 by two prominent local businessmen, Harry and Elie Susman, to commemorate the date of their arrival 50 years previously, and so was named The Pioneer’s Clock. The clock is a complicated piece of machinery requiring consistent servicing. Museum records show periods of problems interspersed with

others of accurate time keeping. The clock has always been an asset to the town, carefully maintained by a succession of enthusiasts. Sadly however in 1988 it stopped working and attempts at repair failed. In 2007 the Susman family sponsored the repair of the clock, as well as some other projects in Livingstone, to mark a family reunion in Livingstone. Unfortunately it has stopped again, with problems in both the synchronisation of the timing and the chiming mechanism. However tourists are still taking their photo opportunity with “Africa Time.” Museum staff are optimistic that it can be repaired, and that Livingstone will once again resound with the chime of this timepeice. Both the historic building itself and the exhibitions within the Livingstone Museum remain a must-see sight for visitors.

The bird’s feet have fleshy lobes, similar to a grebe’s, hence its name , but it is not a grebe. It swims with a characteristic bobbing movement of the head, and its elongate shape and large pointed beak make it look as if it ought to dive – but only the young birds dive. The finfoot’s wings are short, and it can only just fly. When approached it half flies and half runs, its feet never losing contact with the water. Only if chased off a high bank can it maintain itself in flight. The nest of twigs and branchlets is usually placed in an overhanging bush at the water’s edge. One at Tongabezi a few years ago was built in a floating bed of water hyacinth, which was washed away by the extra high flood we had that year. Its breeding season is always at highest water in about March. It is most similar to a grebe, but belongs to a family called Heliornithidae, a tiny group with only three species in the world,

all tropical, one in South Amerca, one in Africa, and one in S E Asia. The one in South America is called a Sungrebe. Why sun, I can’t tell, but the scientific family name Heliornithidae means Sun Bird in Greek. The Sun-grebe is remarkable for the fact that young hatch exceptionally early, are blind and naked, and kept in a special pocket on the back of the mother. Many small birds are to some degree like this and this is called altricial, as opposed to precocial, where the birds hatch later on, have a good cover of down and can run around. The African Finfoot, unlike the Sun-grebe, is quite precocial, but nonetheless the young do often take a ride on the mother’s back. The Finfoot is not very vocal, for the most part just giving a frequent harsh “kak,” but it has a long breeding call, a succession of hoarse barks “cow, cow, cow……” going on for at

least two minutes, at the rate of two per second. Each bark is also accompanied by a really deep double drumbeat. I have no idea which part of the body this comes from. The call is given mainly during the rains, at the time of the approaching nesting period and any time of day or night. The bird usually climbs up onto a dead tree or branches close to the water to call. The finfoot climbs quite well and has special claws to help it, so climbing is obviously part of its heritage It is always a difficult bird to see, but Livingstone is probably the best place to see it. It frequents the Zambezi River bank in front of most hotels and lodges. Although it spends most of the time skulking in dense foliage, it not infrequently swims into the open to cross the river. It is a resident, nonmigratory bird. Contact bob@zamnet.zm

Events Calendar 2011 Livingstone

Victoria Falls

19th March Quiz Night Arcacia School

16th April Easter Fare - Golf Club

18th June Murder Mystery Evening- Prana Contact Bev

+ 260 (0) 979959981 info@ pranazambia.com Early July Water Bird Count

10kms walking/driving along Zambezi, Claire Mateke, email: c.mateke@gmail.com, Volunteers welcome Saturday Mornings Children’s Film, Capitol Theatre 11:00hrs, Phone +260 979914674 Friday nights Live Music,

discounted drinks and free entry, Zigzag B/B@microlink.zm Phone +260 231 322814

Tuesdays & Thursdays Yoga classes 083.0 - 09.30hrs, Livingstone Golf Club, Phone

+260 213 32710 or 260 979959981

01 May Victoria Falls Cricket Club Grizzlies v Cougars,

garth@african-journeys.com, Contact Cell: 0712407879 15 May Victoria Falls Cricket Club Kasane Flatdogs v

Cougars 22 May Victoria Falls Cricket Club Grizzlies v Kasane

Flatdogs 29 May Victoria Falls Cricket Club Cougers v Grizzlies 05 June Victoria Falls Cricket Club Club Cougars v Kasane

Flatdogs 09 June 2011 Zamnavex Air Rally - Kariba 10,11,12 June 2011 Zamnavex Air Rally – Victoria Falls, marrion@yoafrica.com

11 June John Dewdney’s 60th

Birthday Tournament 30 June– 2 July The Vic Falls MTB Challenge, www.vicfallsmtbchallenge.com

26 June Victoria Falls Cricket Club Kasane Flatdogs v Grizzlies 30 June– 2 July The Vic Falls MTB Challenge, www.vicfallsmtbchallenge.com

03 July Victoria Falls Cricket Club Grizzlies v Cougars 10 July Victoria Falls Cricket Club Flatdogs v Cougars 17 July Victoria Falls Cricket Club Grizzlies v Kasane

Flatdogs 24 July Victoria Falls Cricket Club Cougars v Grizzlies 31 July Victoria Falls Cricket Club Cougars v Kasane

Flatdogs 05,06,07 August Slogout

Cricket Tournament 21 August Victoria Falls Cricket Club Kasane

Flatdogs v Grizzzlies 26 - 29 August Zambezi Man, www.zambezi-man.com 28 August The Victoria Falls Marathon, www.vicfallsmarathon. com 04 September Victoria Falls Cricket Clu Club Grizzlies v

Cougars 11 September Victoria Falls Cricket Clu Grizzlies v

Kasane Flatdogs 25 September Victoria Falls Cricket Clu Club Winter

League Final

zambezi livingstone

The Zambezi Traveller

Travellers Friend

A Natural adoption Waterbird count Wild elephant calf finds its own new home

ambezi Elephant Trails keep a domestic herd of elephants for tourists to ride, on the same property as Thorntree Lodge. It is a popular activity to explore the bush from elephant-back. Occasionally the Zambezi Trails Elephant herd meets wild elephants while out grazing, and last year the handlers had a surprise, when a young wild calf joined their domestic herd. Sekuti baby elephant The Zambezi Elephant trails herd had been feeding on Sekuti Island in the Zambezi, and as they swam back across the river to their stables, handlers noticed a young calf was following Mashumbi, the matriarch. The calf seemed to be about one year old, and as elephants usually stay with their mothers for the first five years of their lives, staff were concerned that he was lost. They went back to the island to look for his mother, but elephant population researchers told them that there had been no breeding herd on the island for over two months. The calf had taught himself to use his trunk to eat leaves off the trees, but he was in poor condition as he had not been receiving the enriched supply of nutrients provided by suckling, nor had he been under a mother’s care and protection. The herd completely accepted the new member to their family, so the herd’s carers have decided to keep him and have been supplementing his diet with nutrients. Mashumbi seems to have welcomed her new son, who handlers have named Sekuti, after the island where he joined the herd.

monitors habitat change

Continued from page 22 the weeds. These are all fairly dark birds that are distinguished mainly by the colours of their beaks and legs. The next few ponds revealed a number of brightly coloured African Jacanas and some Long-toed Plovers (lapwings), while the last few Kawana Munalula, Terry Nyambe, Todd Johnson ponds, dominated The total count this of counting. The highest by bulrushes, turned up the month yielded 775 birds number of birds recorded Purple Gallinules, which of 33 species. A total of 72 in one count was 1,250, favour this weed. Overall, different species of water in January 2002, while over 300 birds of 12 species birds have been recorded in the highest number of were recorded at the Sewage species was 45, recorded this area over the 16 years Ponds. in January 1999.

Woven into the fabric of history The proud contribution of the Jewish community in Livingstone By Peter Jones

mong the earliest European settlers north of the Zambezi were many Jews from the Baltic states of the Russian Empire, now Lithuania and Latvia. In their midst were such surnames as Susmanowitz and Gershowitz from Rietava, (later shorted to Susman and Gersh), Grill, Levin, Finklestein, Rabb, Lewison and Wulfsohn. They came in large numbers as economic migrants, and refugees fleeing religious and political persecution, to the goldfields of South Africa from the 1880s onwards. The more adventurous souls, including Elie and Harry Susman, moved on north to Bulawayo and then,

attracted by the cattle stocks of Barotseland, crossed the Zambezi shortly before the ‘Cape to Cairo’ railway reached Victoria Falls in 1904. Jewish traders played an important role at the Old Drift on the Zambezi river bank and then in the new town of Livingstone which was laid out in 1905. A Hebrew congregation was established in 1910 and the foundation stone of the synagogue, now the Church of Christ, was laid in 1928. Livingstone’s Jewish population was reinforced in the late 1930s by a new influx of refugees from Nazism in Germany, followed by an even larger influx of Polish and Christian refugees during the Second World War.

After the War, Jewish businesses branched out of retail into the development of secondary industry. The Susman Brothers & Wulfsohn group partnered in Zambesi Saw Mills and Zambia Textiles, while the Tow Brothers established an iron foundry. The most prominent Jewish families in Livingstone were the related Susmans and Grills, and the Kopelowitzes. Today there is no longer a Jewish presence in the town, but their influence is in evidence through their contribution to the colonial architecture. It was the Grill family who built the remarkable Capitol

Cinema in the early 1930s. Maurice Rabb, the town Mayor for two terms, also represented Livingstone on the Northern Rhodesia Legislative Council.

Some places of interest in Livingstone worth a visit:

The Synagogue, now the Church of Christ on Likute Way. The foundation stone was laid by Eli Susman in 1928 and it was the first Synagogue in Northern Rhodesia. The Sefer Torah was removed to Lusaka when the one of the last Jewish families, the Iljons, left the area in 1972. The Zambesi Saw Mills office in the industrial

area is now the Railway Museum. In the cabinet it is still possible to read the guards’ reports which record the pilfering of bales of cloth belonging to Susman Brothers & Wulfsohn! The central crossroads in the town at Barclays Bank

was once known to the locals as “Ficks, Flax and Aufochs” corner after the three shops at the intersection. Sam Fix was a tailor, Mr Flax ran a haberdashery and the Aufochs family had a trading store on the opposite corner.

zambezi livingstone

Travellers Friend

Classifieds Accommodation

Accommodation

Stay at Chanters lodge in Livingstone, great food, wonderful garden with pool, comfortable reasonably priced rooms in Lukulu Crescent, off Obote

Exclusive B&B and self catering accommodation for small groups and families.

Avenue Phone: + 260 213 323412 Email : richardchanter@gmail.com www.chanters-livingstone.com twitter/@livilodge

Auto Repair BENNETT ENGINEERING Professional engine assembling, vehicle maintenance and servicing. Skimming of cyclinder heads. Reborring/ skimming engine blocks. Press fit conrods. Test/set/fit injector nozzles. Fitting of cam bushes. Vehicle diagnostic, import spares from South Africa. Mosi-os-Tunya Road, opposite Spar Contact : + 260 213 321611 + 260 (0) 978308936

CHAPA CLASSIC LODGE & TOURS accommodation,

air-

conditioned, fridges, coffee making facilities, swimming pool, restaurant, activitiy bookings, airport transfers. Close to centre of town. Cell : 00 260

Tel: 260 213 327120 Cell: 260 979 959981 info@pranazambia.com www.pranazambia.com Livingstone | Zambia

(0) 977796710 chapaclassiclodge@ zamnet.zm

Activities

www.chapaclassiclodge.com

WALK WITH THE RHINO on a 3 hour ‘walking safari’ in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Inclusive pick-up and drop-off, park fees, professional guide, game scout , light breakfast, halfway snacks, cold water/soft drinks.‘ TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE ‘. Livingstone Safaris Tel : + 260 213 322267 Cell : + 260 (0) 977450716 geckos@zamnet.zm

LIVINGSTONE BIBLE ROOM We sell Christian literature and other related materials Living – Inn Complex Phone : +260 (0) 0977389960

FLYFISHING FOR TIGER on the Zambezi River Text Brett + 260 (0) 978725282

BOOKWORLD LIVINGSTONE Selling a good selection of children’s, professional, reference and educational books. All at affordable prices. Stationery items also available Contact us + 260 213 321414

Agriculture

Gift Shop

TECHNICAL SPRAYERS SERVICES/ CROP SERVE We sell day-old chicks, stockfeed for broilers, fertilizers & chemicals, vegetable & maize seeds, chemical sprayers. John Hunt Way, opposite Anglican Church, Phone: + 260 (0) 976553035

REFLECTIONS Good selection of assorted cards and gifts for all occasions, and camping equipment Falls Park Shopping Centre & Mosi-oa-Tunya Square Cell : 260 (0) 977788575

Butchery

Airline & Bus Tickets En-suite,

air-conditioned rooms

with DSTV, room safes, telephone, tea/coffee facilities. Double rooms with mini fridge and LCD TV’S. Continental

breakfast

included,

bar, restaurant. secure parking, conference

facilities,

activity

booking agent Phone : + 260 213 321091/2 Located Mosi-oa-Tunya Road 2kms from town Email: ngolide@zamnet.zm www.ngolidelodge.com

SOUTHEND TRAVEL. IATA Member Airline reservations and ticketing on domestic, regional & International flights. Free quotation Ticketing and reservations for Intercape Bus for routes to Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho Border, Mozambique. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone town centre Phone: +260 213 320241/ 320773/322128, Skype : southend. travel, southend@zamnet.zm

FALLSMEATS LTD Top quality meat, biltong, boerwors and many other products. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone town centre Phone: +260 (0) 979497181

Car Hire THUNDERBIRD INVESTMENTS Car Hire, Car Rentals, Taxis, Tours Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Tel : + 260 213 320331, thunderbird@microlink.zm

+263 712 208 370

Fuel Station

Internet Café NECOR ZAMBIA LTD We provide

L.F. MOORE CHEMIST LTD

ENGEN – FALLS PARK Towards Victoria Falls. 24 hour fuel. convenient store. Phone : + 260 213 322584, ambleside@zamnet.zm

Gardening Services

Opposite Pep Stores – Upstairs -

(Established 1936)

Opposite High Court

Pharmaceutical, Medical, Agricultural, Veterinary, Consultancy & Cosmetic.

LUSI BEAUT Y SALON AND HAIRDRESSERS Bar ber shop, manicure and pedicure. Dreadlocks and Briads. Facials. Cosmetics and Perfumes, Ear piercing. Hairdressings for all occasions. John Hunt Way, opposite Anglican Church, Call + 260 (0) 0977412291+ 260 (0) 0966321136

Books & Stationery

fjackson@iwayafrica.com

Chemist

Beauty Therapy

En-suite

Advertise in the Livingstone Classifieds

The Zambezi Traveller

P .O. Box 60005 133, Akapelwa Street, Livingstone Zambia Tel: +260 213 321640 Cell: +260 978 151 070

E-mail: nayee@aol.com

Crafts THE CRAFTMAN Handmade Brusiloka African crafts. Find us at the Activity Centre, Zambezi Sun International. Cell : + 260 (0) 977488063 brunosiloka@yahoo.com

Designing & Printing FALLSTECH We specialise in artwork, printing t-shirts, sports clothing and banners. Desiging & mounting billboards. Vinyl stickers, letterheads/ business cards. Opposite Makuni Park. Phone 260 (0) 0955444113, (0) 976403088, fallstech@yahoo.com

Fishmonger

LIMULUNGA GARDEN CENTRE Landscaping, garden maintenance, plant nursery. 726 Limulunga Road 217 Area Tel : + 260 (0) 977545754 limulungagarden@gmail.com

services for internet, photocopying, typing,

scanning,

binding,

laminating, CD & DVD burning Next to Professional Insurance Phone : + 260 213 324232

Restaurants LAUGHING DRAGON CHINESE RESTAURANT Superb

Hardware

Sichuan Cuisine, take-aways &

VADOMA LTD Suppliers of building, plumbing, electrical materials, paints,carpentary and glue products. Agents for TAP supplies, glass cutting, cement Mosi – oa –Tunya Road, Opposite Makuni Park. Contact + 260 213 322521, Cell : + 260 (0) 977141874 vadoma@zamnet.zm

Internet Café PATMARK LTD Air-conditioned Internet café, wireless internet acess, printing, photocopying. Open daily. Living-Inn Complex, John Hunt Way Opposite Anglican Church Phone + 260 213 322107

Internet Café

restaurant. Self-contained local accommodation John Hunt Way, behind Post Office Phone : + 260 213 322555 THE SPOT A-la-carte menu including vegetarian Tuesdays

cuisine. Chinese,

Portuguese,

Specials

Thursdays

Thai.

Open Tuesdays –Sundays. Groups welcome, Lounge Bar, Located Mosioa-Tunya Road, opposite 217 Shops Phone Camilla + 260 (0) 979395024 Chantal

260

(0)

978170791

Training Centre NECOR ZAMBIA LTD For introductory computer courses for internet, programming, website

THUNDERBIRD INVESTMENTS Fax facilities, internet access, photocopying, printing, scanning, CD burning. Mosi-oa- Tunya Road, Tel : + 260 213 320331 thunderbirds@microlink.zm

development, accounting systems & management skills, Upstairs - Next to Professional Insurance Phone : + 260 213 324232 email: training@necor.co.zm

DAVEY’S FISH SHOP We sell dry and frozen kapenta, filleted bream, tiger fish, game meat, ice cubes/ice blocks. 217 Shops, opposite Mosioa-Tunya Square. Phone + 260 213 323345 / + 260 (0) 969886801

For Sale LIVINGSTONE LODGE For SALE Fully operational lodge, 15mins to Victoria Falls, set amoung mature trees and grassed lawns. 5 ensuite air–conditioned chalets, dining terrace/bar. Staff quarters, swimming pool, 4 bedroomed house, perimeter wall and electric fence. Price US210,000. Call +260 (0) 0977630159/+ 260 213 322631

FREE T-Shirt with 70 cases of Amstel *While stocks last

TEL: +267 625 0188 FAX: +267 625 0189 Mobile: George +267 74 757686 or +260 968 974877

Best prices in Kasane

(LOOK FOR RED BUILDING ON MAIN ROAD TO ZIMBABWE BORDER)

Get your free copy available from: Local Hotels and Lodges and coffee shops Advertising in Livingstone News contact Mary Lowe on email: safari@zamnet.zm

Accounting, Audit, Company Secretarial, Corporate Finance, Tax PO Box 60014, Livingstone, Zambia Corner Obote Avenue & Mosi-Oa-Tunya Rd Tel: +260 21 3 322828 Fax: +260 21 3 322929 Email: livingstone@bdo.co.zm

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Advertising Contact Frances Jackson fjackson@iwayafrica.com Cell: +263 (0) 712 208 370

Daily Routes

Daily Departure Times Lusaka

Livingstone

1st Bus 06:30Hrs

1st Bus 06:00Hrs

2nd Bus 07:30Hrs

2nd Bus 07:00Hrs

3rd Bus 09:00Hrs

Monze

4th Bus 11:30Hrs

4th Bus 10:30Hrs

Ndola

5th Bus 13:30Hrs

Kitwe

6th Bus 19:30Hrs

6th Bus 20:00Hrs

Livingstone Sesheke Kazungula Choma

–

Wednesdays

Teddy Brightman teddy@yoafrica.com Cell: +263 (0) 712 217178

Travel and Booking Enquiries Mazhandu Family Bus Services Ltd +260 211 236494/94 (Office) +260 977 805064 (Hotline) +260 975 805064 (Livingstone) Email: panga@zamnet.zm www.mazhandu.com

Harare on your way to the Zambezi

Calling all artists National Gallery Zimbabwe The National Gallery Zimbabwe and Friends of the Gallery, in partnership with the Delegation of the European Union to the Republic of Zimbabwe, have invited artists to participate in a fundraising competition, exhibition and auction. The project will emphasize the support that the EU provides to Zimbabwe through the promotion of the arts, artists

and fund raising for the NGZ. The project will highlight the values and symbols of the EU and development assistance programmes funded by the EU in Zimbabwe. As the EU celebrated 60 years of its establishment this year, the project is calling for the submission of 60 pieces of work for international exhibition, one for each year of the EU’s existence, with the theme ‘Dialogue: Continental Conversations.’

Recently a number of European Eastern Block countries joined the EU and this theme seeks to give artists an opportunity to explore Zimbabwe’s own relationship with the EU, opening to them issues about EU identity and identity issues within Africa. The competition is open to both emerging and professional artists to explore and develop their own interpretation of the theme. The full project will consist of three different components with the art competition as the first. Works will be judged by the EU Ambassador to Zimbabwe or his representative and a group of five visual art specialists.

Artists For European Union Art Exhibition 19th - 25th March 2011 Charles Kamangwana Portia Zvavahera, James Jali, Richard Witikani, Khumbulani Mpofu, Muthabisi Pi Li, Stanley Sibanda, Charles Bhebhe, Zacharia Mukwira, Guillian Rosselli, Tafadzwa Gwetai Togara Nyakapanga, David Chiinyama, Virginia Chihota Marjorie Wallace, Lin Barrie Mercy Moyo, Takesure Benhura

Contact: Sharon Waterworth E-Mail: shazwaz@yoafrica.com

“Miller's Steaks ... A Legend”

Ballantyne Shopping Centre

Harare Tel. 263 (0)4 882747

A unique shop dealing in guns and ammunition, knives, fishing and diving equipment. Tents camping and outdoor requisites. Hats, caps, shirts, belts, shorts, socks and boots. Garmin GPS, gas equipment, braais, pots, pans local animal books, memorabilia and more.

Shop No. 53 Borrowdale Village

Tel: 263 4 885660 | Fax: 263 4 883214 | Email: masterangler@zol.co.zw

The Borrowdale Village Harare Tel: +263 (4) 882156.

Get Engaged - to feast on art, culture and every imaginable expression of these, plus some beyond imagination! Prepare for the biggest, grandest, most spectacular carnival event on the Artistic Calendar! HIFA invites all Zimbabweans and her visitors, no matter their walk of life, belief system, social echelon, income, age or any other variable, to Engage - with one another, with our

communities, artists, art and creativity, with our multicultural, multi-lingual society. Get involved! Engage your heart and mind! Celebrate this amazing country, her strong, resilient people, extraordinarily talented artists, art in every conceivable form, life itself - and all that is good in our Zimbabwe. Come party at HIFA 2011! Will you be there? Make A Plan. Engage!

zambezi harare

Travellers Friend

The Zambezi Traveller

Reps Theatre Main Stage 10 – 26 March

Dream Lover The fabulous music of four unforgettable stars – Neil Sedaka, Connie Francis, Bobby Darin and Carole King. Directed by Stan Higgins and featuring a cast of well known faces and new comers including Nikki Ziehl, Dean Jones, Innocent Museve and Rumbi Chimunda.

5 – 7 May

Upstairs

Come to the Party The National Ballet of Zimbabwe present their HIFA show again for anyone who missed it. Always a must-see. 16 – 28 May

Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy The Repteens present Douglas Adam’s most celebrated work for the first time on stage at Reps. Directed by Kevin Hanssen.

6 – 16 April

1 – 11 June

Rent

Motown

Reps Theatre is proud to present, for the first time in Zimbabwe, the break thorough musical by Jonathan Larson about living with AIDS that is the second longest running production on Broadway and multiple TONY award winner. Directed by Zane E. Lucas and starring, amongst others, Josh Ansley, Erin Housam, Kirby Chipembere and Tina Masawi.

Mark Robbins and Eclipse Productions show off what Motown can really do in this revue of all your favourite hits.

26 April – 2 May

22 – 25 June

HIFA Reps is host to several of the HIFA performances on our main stage every year. This year’s theme – The Engagement Party.

Events for - April, May & June 2011

15 – 18 June

Tambuka Dance Company

1 – 5 March

Caroline’s Man Written and directed by Mary Leared, this show about an SPCA volunteer searching for love will leave you amazed. We will also be raising funds for the SPCA in the foyer after the show so come along to support this worthy cause. 23 March – 2 April

Humble Boy Graham Crutchley brings you this touching story of a man trying to find a way to cope with the death of his father, with a cast that includes Alex Fairlie, Fiona Garrity, Joe Levey, Kyla Render, Mike Blackburn and Betty Hobbs 26 April – 2 May

Zimbabwe’s most celebrated contemporary dance company show case their work in an exciting show.

Fraser Mackay presents..

HIFA Reps is host to several of the HIFA performances in our Theatre Upstairs every year. This year’s theme – The Engagement Party

Hifa- sadc Zimbabwean, SADC and overseas artists exhibition Tuesday 26th April to Tuesday 31st May Returning to Early Workshops Exhibition Friday 3rd June to Monday 25th July S. Mazarire Exhibition Thursday 9th June to Monday 25th July Dominic Maxwell Exhibition Saturday 14th June to Sunday 31st July Hifa telephone numbers: 300977, 300984, 30999

Mr Cruiser

THE TOYOTA 4X4 SPECIALISTS

Genuine

PARTS

MR CRUISER

5 – 14 May

Jesus, My Boy

Fraser Mackay brings you stand up comedy, guaranteed to have you rolling in the aisles!

Mike Southall stars in this one man show, directed by Sue Bolt, this is the first Reps show to be premiered at HIFA.

63 HARARE DRIVE MARLBOROUGH - HARARE

mrcruiser@zol.co.zw Tel:+263 4 309014 Cell:+263 773 049 444

For bookings or further information contact Anne Zographos / Hazel Downing 4 Bryden Road, Mt Pleasant Harare, Zimbabwe Tel: + 263 (0) 4 301 461, +263 (0) 4 303 049 Cell: + 263 (0) 772 213 992 Email: zographosanne@yahoo.com

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Shop 14, Sam Levy’s Village, Borrowdale, Harare

from iClik through Credfin.

tel: +2634 2930567

See instore for details or email info@credfin.org

email: sales@iclik.co.zw | www.iclik.co.zw

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Zambezi News

kariba lower zam TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River

Treasures of a vanishing culture By Lindi Worsely

s I grew up in the ’60s and ’70s in Rhodesia, I heard stories of a far-away culture of people who lived in mud huts on stilts and who lived off the land,

Tonga women with pipe and carrying firewood

PHOTOS: BRIAN AND LINDI WORSLEY

Congratulations

to Brian and Lindi Worsley

3 WINNERS & 3 COPIES

Win a copy of the Magnificent Victoria Falls in the Zambezi Traveller’s “People of the Zambezi”

See inside for more details

from Darwin, Australia for their winning article titled “Treasures of a Vanishing Culture” which is featured in the Kariba and Lower Zambezi section. Only two books left!

surviving hardships, and pipes’ made from the fruits breeding generations of of a calabash vine. seasoned, weathered people These were hollowed out with traditions beyond and smoked over an open fire my imagination. I never to seal the inside surface to dreamed that one day I make pipes for the women would look into the battered face After centuries of slavery, of a dusty old Batonka woman, both men and women who beamed a had adopted a tradition toothless grin from under her of smashing out their shy and wise eyes. two front teeth ... My safari days in Zimbabwe took me through wonderful to smoke, or to use to store villages en route to honey or water. Etched into Chizarira National Park via my memory forever is the the Binga District, which pungent burnt smell of the was an administration small clay tobacco bowl that centre established for the is attached to the smoking resettlement of Batonka calabash via a small section people who had traditionally of reed. Odoriferous things lived as fishermen on the that would make even a banks of the Zambezi River. hardened junkie flinch! The Batonka were a After centuries of slavery, remote tribe isolated by the both men and women escarpment and displaced had adopted a tradition from fertile valley areas of smashing out their two when Kariba Dam was built front teeth as a means of between 1955-59. They disfigurement to prevent had originally come from Arab slave traders from Malawi during the 15th and taking them. 16th centuries and settled Only once did I see a along the river. Men fished, Batonka woman with a river hunted, and carved stools reed through the hole made and spears, and the women in the middle part of her grew cassava and grains and nose. I have been endlessly fashioned water ‘bubble fascinated by the scars cut

into faces, and huge cut earlobes looped over the ears, which I never managed to photograph. In the 1980s I purchased or traded goods and food for my prized collection of stools, walking sticks and bubble pipes decorated with cowry shells and tree bark. I photographed characters when I could, not realizing that the real value was in interacting with these people in the very early days long before the tourist trail took a grip on these remote areas. The villagers we met along the way were equally astonished at our way of life. The happy barefoot children wore our western clothes to rags, and we marvelled at how one child fashioned his own play spectacles out of wire, while others had made cars out of wood, wire and miscellaneous scraps. We encountered an old man whose real spectacles had been broken across both lenses and he had simply wired them together. These stories are endless; homemade shoes would be a chapter on its own! Zambezi Traveller looks forward to hearing more from Lindi.

ConneCting you to Z imbabwe’s f inest ZIMBABWE

Zimbabwe

getting to Lake Kariba, the magnificence of the greater Zambezi River, and the world-renowned Victoria Falls, has never been easier or more accessible, as solenta aviation, based at Harare ZIMBABWE international Airport, now offer shuttle, scheduled and Charter services across Zimbabwe and regionally for Charter.

Zimbabwe

tel: +263 4 788 324/5 email: bookings@solenta.com

www.solenta.co.zw

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Travellers Friend

“No Entry Beyond This Point” By Bernie Styles

o reads a new sign at the boundary of the Gache Gache Concession Area on the Kariba shoreline, erected by the Parks and Wildlife Management Authority.

Gache Gache Wilderness Area is now a reality, created by a partnership between Gache Gache Lodge, Environment Africa and the local community. The area around the lodge has been infested with illegal poachers and illegal fishermen netting large amounts of fish and destroying the breeding sanctuary up the Gache Gache River system. Legal fishermen from the local community approached the lodge management for assistance. To date the lodge has supported the project with uniforms, boats, motors and transport around the area. Currently the community fishermen are receiving a very small cash remuneration to support their efforts to protect the area. The Community Anti-Poaching Unit comprising of four members started patrols in October 2010 and to date 123 poachers have either been arrested, jailed or given a severe warning. “I am encouraged by the dedication and passion of this team, and amazed at how fast wildlife and fish have come back into this area over such a short time,”

said Ray Townsend, GGWA representative. The success of the project will require long term support – hence the formation of the Gache Gache Wilderness Area and a trust fund for the protection and conservation of the area. The fund will be financed by monthly contributions and support from individuals, corporate and other wellwishers, and supporters will be allowed free entry into the wilderness. Non-members will have to pay for a day pass entry permit at a cost of $20 per boat, which can be obtained from the GGWA office situated at Gache Gache Lodge. These funds will go directly to the GGWA to support the Community Anti-Poaching Unit’s activities. Total costs of the GGWA Anti-Poaching Unit are approximately $4,000 per month. Kariba International Tiger Fishing Tournament has fully endorsed the GGWA and was the first organisation to donate to the fund, which is seen as a groundbreaking public/ private/ community partnership. The GGWA is currently developing a code of conduct in line with K.I.T.F.T. rules and regulations to ensure the long term protection of this area as well as provide for quality fishing. Visit info@ggwa.org or www. gachegachewildernessarea.org.

Lodge leads the fight to curb netting By Bernie Styles

ache Gache Lodge, Kariba, is reporting a significant improvement in the fishing in the lake. Sport fishing, mainly for tiger, by lodge guests and staff, is on a catch and release basis, with the average weight being approximately three to four kilos. The biggest for the festive season was caught on 21 December by lodge apprentice Juan Wayne Hughes. Bream catches have also been plentiful, and of good size. “We believe this is due to the anti-poaching project which we have put in place,” commented a

spokesman for the lodge. A team of four volunteers and a driver from the villages work in conjunction with lodge staff, with the lodge bearing all expenses. “They worked tirelessly and sometimes almost a 24-hour day, trying to bring to an end to illegal netting of bream and tiger mainly in the breeding areas. Nets and twine have plagued the shoreline for too long now, with crocodiles, birds and many underwater species suffering and getting helplessly caught up.” Amongst many others, two Zambian boats

Bernie Styles, Chapungu Safaris, Gache Gache Lodge 38 Basset Crescent, New Alexandra Park, Harare Zimbabwe Tel: 00 263 4 745 717 or 744 699, Cell: 00 263 772 285 691 Email: bernie@chapungusafaris.co.zw Web: www.gachegache.com, www.chapungusafaris.com skype:bernie.styles

PHOTO: JUAN HUGHES

have been caught, each with 1500 metres of twine nets. The poachers were arrested and handed over to the authorities. Both lodge staff and the anti poaching unit have endured accusations and threats, including murder, as a result of their activities.

The Zambezi Traveller

FACT FILE

October 38 fishermen caught; four Zambians jailed for 12 months, seven Zambians arrested for having twine nets and fishing in a prohibited area. The people who were issuing boats to the poachers have also been jailed – case pending. More than six kms twine nets destroyed.

November Ten indigenous irrigation scheme residents arrested, some fined, some jailed. One boat impounded and released after $775 fine paid to Parks; owner charged. Twine nets destroyed and more boats impounded. One poacher attacked by crocodile in the prohibited area.

December Five Nyamhunga residents arrested then warned and released. Six others had boats impounded and twine nets destroyed. Three Zambians arrested and jailed and boat with 25hp motor impounded; 800m twine nets destroyed. Two Kapenta rigs paid fines of $1000 and $500 to Parks.

January Ten senior poachers arrested and remain in custody in Karoi prison. One old man arrested but later released after being given a warning. A teacher arrested and later released after being warned. Two poachers released after serving time. Two poachers arrested and waiting for court ruling in Kariba.

Snared lioness fully recovered By Nick Milne

he snared and injured lioness which was the subject of an article in the Dec 2010 – Feb 2011 issue of Zambezi Traveller has made a full recovery following the darting operation in October last year. November 2010 was an anxious month for those involved as the pride of six lionesses, obviously stressed by the procedure, moved out of the unfenced wildlife area surrounding Bumi Hills and Musango Safari Camp, into the bordering communal farming areas. The safety of the pride was in serious jeopardy as snaring is rife in these unpatrolled areas and the livestock provides easy targets for the pride. The Bumi Hills AntiPoaching Unit (BHAPU) spent the month patrolling the boundary and neighbouring communal areas, looking for tracks and gathering information from nearby villagers as to the whereabouts of the pride. Eventually, in midDecember BHAPU picked up fresh tracks of all six lionesses crossing

Strong and healthy after being rescued from a snare back into the protected estate. Steve Edwards, owner of Musango Safari Camp, reported a number of sightings of only four lionesses during December, which raised concerns as to the whereabouts of the remaining two, and the snared animal in particular. In early January Bumi Hills guide Rodgers Matimbidzire and two guests were enjoying a spectacular sunset on an evening boat cruise when they spotted four healthy lionesses on the floodplain very near to where the darting operation took place. In the fading light they managed to identify the snared lioness by a very faint scar around her torso.

This was the first confirmed sighting of the affected animal and brought a great sense of relief to the team. In the following weeks the pride of four spent all of their time around the hill atop which Bumi Hills Safari Lodge is situated, making regular kills of antelope and other small game. At the end of January the missing two lionesses rejoined the pride for the first time since the darting operation. The presence of a nomadic male in the area has sparked excitement at the prospect of welcoming a new generation to the pride. Visit www.bumihills. blogspot.com

Where Africa and Luxury Meet Email: reservations@chikwenyasafaris.com Tel: +263 (0) 4 499 165 Cell: +263 (0) 772 470 065 www.chikwenyasafaris.com

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The Zambezi Traveller

Travellers Friend

Twisting in the Bumi Basin

Let’s twist again, like we did last summer…

Water spout, Lake Kariba

PHOTO: BUMI HILLS

By Cheryl Robertson

t comes as no surprise that Zimbabwe’s climate was voted ‘the Best Climate on Earth’ alongside that of Malta in International Living magazine’s 2011 Quality of Life Index, published in January. Every year at this time the magazine ranks 192 countries for this index. Zimbabwe scored 100% on climate, one of the nine categories rated. In the north of the country is Lake Kariba, still the largest man-

made reservoir in the world in terms of volume, which has its own distinctly unique weather pattern that affects the climate of the entire Zambezi Valley. Lying between Zambia and Zimbabwe, the lake offers some spectacular weather variations within its three seasons of wet, cool or hot. Dramatic tropical thunderstorms with fantastic cloud formations can occur during the wet season from late November to April. Visitors who come

here at this time may well be lucky enough to witness the power of nature in the form of a water spout – a miniature version of a tornado or twister. The Bumi Basin – a stretch of water lying between Musango Safari Camp, Bumi Hills Safari Lodge, Island 155 and Starvation Island – sees many of these fair weather water spouts, which form over water beneath vertical cumulus or cumulonimbus clouds when warm, humid air and the cooler air provided by a cloud system mix. The spouts are made up of rising columns of rotating air, at first invisible, then becoming curtains of spinning water droplets. After two to 20 minutes the spout disappears over the water or within a few hundred metres of reaching a shoreline. When water spouts do occur, Musango Safari Camp’s chief chef Jinglison is among the many locals in the area who keep a low profile as he, being of the Tonga tribe, believes that Nyaminyami, the

sacred river god that is said to oversee Lake Kariba, is angry. In the cooler winter months from April to September temperatures generally sit between 15 degrees Celsius at night and 25 C during the day. The third season starts midSeptember, with a hot and dry October seeing day time temperatures of up to 40 C and 30 C at night. Perhaps not the best climate within Zimbabwe, but taken with the vistas and the wildlife, still seriously attractive.

Water spout, Lake Kariba

PHOTO: BUMI HILLS

Kariba , Zimbabwe Fishing Canoeing Game Drives Game Cruises Rhino Tracking WalkingSafaris Dinosaur Fossils Tonga Cultural Village Reservations: +(263-13) 43358 Cell: +(263) 772 307 875 Email: musango@microlink.zm www. musangosafaricamp.com

ZAMBEZI TRADER

Developments along the Zambezi River at Mana Pools By The Zambezi Society The Zambezi Society has been seeking clarification from the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Authority on proposed developments in Mana Pools along the shoreline of the Zambezi River. The situation is still unclear. In September 2010, stakeholders were formally advised that there were four proposed riverside developments... then there was one only... and now there appear to be two in the offing. The Society will continue to insist that the recommendations of the existing (but still unratified) Management Plan be adhered to... i.e. NO further developments should be allowed along the Zambezi River, in order to protect the special ecosystem of Mana’s alluvial terraces and to retain the wilderness quality of the tourism experience along the river. Meantime, in January, a visiting delegation from UNESCO’s World Heritage Committee was tasked with inspecting Zimbabwean and Zambian development and mining proposals in the area, to assess their potential impact on the World Heritage Site and report back to the world body. The Zambezi Society was able to meet with a member of the delegation and brief him on its views.

IDEAL VENUE for weddings, conferences, birthdays, reunions, day cruises, etc.

FOR GROUPS OF 30 UP TO 170

From May on the Zambezi Trader will have a monthly 6 day return cruise from Kariba to Binga guests can board the ship in Kariba or Binga. Group or individual bookings. Website:

www.zambezitrader.co.zw; e-mail: info@zambezitrader.co.zw: tel: +263(4) 33 9643

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Travellers Friend

The Zambezi Traveller

KNOW YOUR TREES

The Legendary Baobab by Meg Coates Palgrave

he common name ‘baobab’ predates the scientific name Adansonia digitata bestowed on this tree by Linneas, the father of botanical nomenclature, in 1753. The fruits of which were sold in the Cairo herb and spice markets during the sixteenth century under the name bu hobab. Although they don’t actually grow in Egypt, baobabs are widespread in Africa, usually at lower altitudes in areas with lower rainfall, and the fruit were probably brought to Cairo for their medicinal properties. Another popular name is the ‘upside-down-tree.’ There are several folklores as to why they look like this. One holds that the baobab first grew in the Congo basin where it kept complaining about the climate being too hot and wet, so God planted it on the ‘Mountain of the Moon,’ but again the baobab was not happy and complained incessantly

until eventually God became so fed up with all the whining that he pulled it up and threw it down in a dry part of Africa where it landed upside down. Another relates that when the great spirits gave trees to man, he in turn called all the animals together and gave each of them a tree. The hyaena was late and the only tree left was the baobab, with which the hyaena was so disgusted that he deliberately planted it upside down. Yet another assumes PHOTOS: BAYNHAM GOREDEMA that the gods became exasperated by the constant advice given by the baobab, because it was so tall and close to them, that they uprooted it and replanted it upside down to silence it. Perhaps, aware of the fact that roots do not normally produce leaves, the baobabs bears leaves in an unusual manner. Adult trees have compound, or digitate leaves (i.e. with five leaflets all arising from the same point, like fingers on a hand). When the newly germinated seedling emerges it has simple leaves (a blade in one piece). It is only years later that the leaves emerge first with three leaflets and finally with five leaflets. It is also some years before they develop their swollen trunks. This could have led to the widely held fallacy that there are no young baobabs. Measuring the age of a baobab in real terms is quite difficult. Trees usually have trunks with annular rings, which can be counted, but those of the baobab are

composed of a mass of soft, spongy fibres full of water. During the dry season and particularly during a drought, the circumference shrinks measurably. Determining age has been done by carbon dating. It was reported in 1963 that a tree in the Kariba area with a diameter of 4,5 metres was dated at about 1000 to 1100 years old. More recent reports suggest that the really big ones could be up to 3000 years old. Another unusual feature is that if the bark is damaged it is able to regrow. Just as well, in view of the numbers of hats and mats that have been made from the bark. The trunks are often hollow and have been used for storing water, presumably those which are hollow from the top. Providing the top is stoppered adequately the water is supposed to keep fresh for a long time. Itinerant San have used this as a source of water in the desert. Other uses to which hollow baobabs have been put are serving as a tomb, a prison, a toilet complete with water-borne facilities and a bus shelter holding up to 40 people. The flowers, about 15 cm in diameter, are white with the petals folded back and a central mass of stamens. They open in the early evening and fade over a period of 24 hours, being pollinated at night by bats and beetles. While not particularly scented, the flowers stink after they have fallen. One legend holds that spirits inhabit the flowers and anyone who picks a flower will be eaten by a lion. The fruit is a bit like a furry gourd full of pips, covered with a white powdery substance, rich in vitamin C, and quite pleasant to suck. But there is also a superstition about that; the Ila tribe in Zambia insist that the pips should not be sucked, but should be soaked in water and only the liquid drunk, otherwise one is likely to be eaten by a crocodile.

Flood drama results in downstream chaos have been for years. The main Mana Pools campsite at Nyamepi and some lodge and staff facilities on the banks of the river went underwater. Staff were evacuated to higher ground, and visitors to PHOTO: PHILIP KUVAWOGA PHOTO: SALLY WYNN PHOTO: KEN JENKINS Buffalo almost stranded Mana mouth August 2010 Mana Mouth flooded - Feb 2011 the National Park forced to change their plans, as access to the main Zambezi River by Sally Wynn, Wild Zambezi became impassible. A photograph (above middle) taken by for this was to reduce the amount of water in Lake Kariba his year’s heavy rains in the Zambezi River Ken Jenkins shows the normally high banks at the mouth so that all four gates could be closed for two weeks of dam catchment brought early floods and chaos below of the Mana River, a well-known fishing and sundowner wall maintenance. Lake Kariba, when the Zambezi River Authority, spot for visitors, completely submerged. For comparison, Wild animals like buffalo and waterbuck which having already opened three of the dam’s floodgates, finally commonly graze on mid-stream islands (see above left) see the picture of the same spot taken in August last year opened a fourth on 11th February, releasing a very large (above right)! were in grave danger. Fortunately, Zimbabwe’s Parks amount of water downstream very suddenly. The reason Further downstream at the confluence of the Chewore Authority acted swiftly and, with help from conservation and the Zambezi Rivers, the newly-constructed Chewore organisations, succeeded in Campsite went completely underwater, with the Zambezi chasing a number of them swirling over the roofs of the ablution blocks! An eyeto safety on the mainland witness who accessed the site by boat on the swirling just before the fourth river, told Wild Zambezi that he saw many animal floodgate was opened. August–September 20th March–30th April Other times of the year carcasses floating downstream. He reported that when Despite warnings Chiwore River Mouth Kanyemba At “H” Camp Kariba’s floodgates were closed several days later, the river from Civil Protection, this at Chewore dropped a colossal 6 metres overnight! sudden release caused The Zambezi River is likely to remain at high levels many villages and tourism for several months this year. However, by June, as the properties to be inundated inflows return to a more normal level, tourism facilities and severely damaged on both sides of the river as the downstream will resume business as usual for the 2011 waters rose higher than they safari season.

Zambezi Valley River Trips

E-mail: pondbird@mweb.co.zw Phone: 263 - 4 745006 Cell: 263 - 772305153

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The Zambezi Traveller

On a mission to row Kariba!

e are the High School children of Lions Learning Centre in Kariba. We want to SAVE OUR SCHOOL! Join us on our journey as we raise money for our school and our home. We will be rowing the entire length of Lake Kariba - from Milibizi to Charara, starting on 24 March 2011 at midday. The other schools in Kariba will walk from their respective schools, carrying banners. The Department of National Parks will do the same, culminating in a ceremony whereby the banners are handed over to the Lions kids, who will carry them for the duration of the trip. The Lions Learners will travel to Milibizi by houseboat and will start rowing for home on Sunday 27 March. They will row into NAU Charara on Easter Sunday. This will be a canoe trip of

On a quest to save their school a lifetime and we NEED YOU to help us raise enough money - for our trip, for our new curriculum and for our cause. Thank you so much for looking at our site. www. savekaribasaveourschool.com

Why are we doing this HUGE canoe trip?

Our school in Kariba was very limited on what

subjects it could offer for O Level and it did not offer a second language. To get into university, we need at least five O levels and we need a second language. With the help of our parents, we searched for a curriculum that we would be able to follow that would offer us more choice. We found Love 2 Learn www. love2learn.co.za

My Companion The River By Barry Meikle

he Zambezi is a current that runs through the lives of many, has touched and sustains millions, and continues to inspire all who visit her. The river has been part of my life since I first arrived on her banks as a teenage boy. It was love at first sight. And the river has been the background to my work, play, and life ever since. My plans for college and career were forgotten when I signed up to be a river guide. The years that followed were amongst the best of my life. Learning to conquer my fears and master a truly wild river, and the skills I learned in dealing with people, were valuable lessons for a young man. These same skills allowed me to travel the world, visiting exotic and diverse lands like Turkey and the Arctic. I have also had the privilege of doing many long journeys on the Zambezi itself. I can think of many magnificent moments and experiences that the river has shared with me. The quiet splendour of the river’s birth where it bubbles to the surface through the roots of a tree. The excitement of youth as it gathers speed and strength and heads downstream. The sheer abundance of birdlife sustained by the Barotse floodplain. The little-known beauty of Sioma Falls. Herds of elephant on the banks of the river. The thunderous majesty of Victoria Falls. A journey to the center of the earth through the Batoka Gorge. Sunsets on Lake Kariba. The reverent loneliness of Mary Livingstone’s grave. The turbulent waters at the river’s end where she becomes part of the ocean.

Time to relax These moments flash across my mind like a soothing slideshow. Like life itself, the river gives but also takes. I have seen the river take a number of good people, and I have had close encounters with crocodiles and had my own body broken a few times. Babies are baptized in the river and ashes cast into her waters. But for me the river always seems to give more than it takes. I met a beautiful woman once on the Zambezi, and a few years later, sitting on the river bank, asked her to marry me. A kindred spirit, Tonya also loves the river and has canoed across Kariba twice. Our children have grown up to love the river too. Most weekends and holidays we

go camping on the river, enjoying and appreciating the wildlife, playing on the sandbanks, fishing in the river and sleeping under the stars. The Zambezi has always given generously to me wild excitement when I wanted it and quiet solitude when I needed it. It has given me a family and a means to earn a living. But most importantly it has given me something to feel passionate about. My journey with this river, my companion in life, is far from over. And when they are old enough, my girls too will make journeys down the Zambezi, and hopefully discover for themselves the wondrous ways the river will touch their souls.

An awesome curriculum which is Christian based and as the authors state, it’s more than a curriculum, it’s a discipleship! With the curriculum comes a cost and we were not able to fund it so we put our heads together and came up with a fundraiser - to row the entire length of our beautiful lake - some 368km. Our school was not able to sustain itself as parents were not able to pay their fees because their businesses were not doing well. Kariba is about wildlife and over the past 10 to 15 years, the wildlife has decreased hugely. This is due to various reasons but one of the obvious ones was the state of the economy. So with the help of our parents, we decided to set up a trust and through this trust we would raise money to save Kariba. We have loads on our wish list and obviously the curriculum is the first and foremost, but other things are salaries for a group of game scouts to help them do anti snaring patrols. We currently go out on weekends and sometimes walk over 20 kms a day looking for snares. We also identify animals that need medical attention and go along with the vets to help. We even clean up litter around the town and help other projects where we can.

Travellers Friend

Think like a poacher to catch a poacher

Freeing a Zebra from a snare By Tendai Mushangwe, Kariba ZTA Office

e were having a drink at a local hotel after a Kariba Publicity Association meeting when then National Parks Charara Safari Area manager Mr Dodzo commented on the increasing number of wire snares picked up at Chengulube area. There and then, we decided to take the initiative and revive volunteer snare sweeps, involving stakeholders, Wildlife & Environment Zimbabwe, Parks and other government departments.

In two seasons we have managed four sweeps. The good thing about a snare sweep is that it is a success if you collect plenty of snares, and even better if you don’t, because the area is clean of snares for the time being. The majority of our volunteers come from a group of learner guides called Kariba Wildlife Conservation Trustees who are under the arm of WEZ. The routine for snare sweeps is an early wakeup to catch poachers while they are checking their snares. Secondly, Kariba is hot, so you want to start early Continued on page 37

Travellers Friend

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The Zambezi Traveller

The Belle restored and ready to sail ZT Correspondent

xtensive renovations to the Southern Belle were completed in December and she has already undergone a number of successful cruises on Lake Kariba. Built to resemble a Mississippi paddle steamer from the late 1800’s, the Belle was an institution on the Zimbabwean side of the lake for more than a decade. Now operated by Protea Hotels, all 22 en-suite cabins have been refurbished, while retaining classical steam ship design elements. All

original interior décor and furnishings were stripped, while below deck the old generators have been replaced with more energyefficient alternatives, as well as solar energy water heating systems. “It has been a lengthy process, but we’re thrilled that we’ve managed to execute it timeously and immaculately,” said Mark O’Donnell, Chairman of Protea Hotels Zambia. His sentiments were echoed by Protea Hospitality Group Director of Sales,

Marketing and Revenue, Danny Bryer, who said the Southern Belle was a unique addition to the Protea Hotels portfolio. “We have no doubt that the Southern Belle will draw leisure and conferencing business from all over the world,” said Bryer. The newly completed vessel features a conference room for up to 40 people, a shop, restaurant and bar, and a top deck with bar and a swimming pool. Guests are welcomed aboard at the base station, which features

a thatched verandah as well as a secure parking facility, in Manchinchi Bay near Siavonga on Lake Kariba.

overnight at the Protea Hotel Cairo Road or Protea Hotel Lusaka. Transfers to the Southern Belle, about three hours from Lusaka, can be arranged. The Southern Belle is available for charter from

International guests can fly into Lusaka International Airport, where they can

Siavonga Challenge events for 2011

n an effort to promote Siavonga as a major tourist destination, the hotels in Siavonga are working together to develop various events focussing on the local Zambian market.

The team participants for this event are sponsored by various companies from all over Zambia and this year saw 18 teams participating with over 200 people in attendance. The event also raised Zmk 14,000,000.00 for two charities’s each receiving Zmk 7,000,000.00, one Local Siavonga Charity and one Lusaka Charity. This event is held in May/ June every year and will be held in June this year. For the last two years the event also included a cook out

May / June 2011

Join us for a cruise on Lake Kariba! Book now for group and individual cruises Contact our Central Reservations Office on Tel: 0211 254 605 or Email: reservations@proteahotels.co.zm

1 to 5 nights, depending on group requirements, departing from the base station at noon and returning at 10 am on the final day. Visit www.proteahotels.com

The first of these was the Siavonga Canoe Challenge which has been running now for 4 years very successfully. This year the Canoe Challenge was adopted by MTN as the principal sponsor and the event was re-named the “MTN Siavonga Canoe Challenge”.

competition, 1st Year was boere wors the second a cook a chicken competition. For the 2011 event we want to do something very different “Master Chef Siavonga”, the participants can bring with them as many spices, herbs, cook books and utensils as they like but we will supply the ingredients and they will not know what it is until they are given it on the day. They will then be given 4 hours to produce a 2 or 3 coarse meal from these Continued from page 38

Second Annual Tiger Fishing Challenge 10th to 12th December 2010 The event was a great success this year, we had 9 teams participate and this year they caught plenty of fish pulling in a total of 57.3 kg of fish between them.

Winners The Results were as follows:

Plot 517, Siavonga, Lake Kariba, Zambia • Tel: +260 211 511638 • Cell: +260 964 846239 Email: reservations@phsouthernbelle.co.zm • Website: www.proteahotels.com/southernbelle