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Issue 09
TOURISM
Our golden opportunity In an historic ceremony on an iconic bridge, a Trilateral Host Agreement between Zambia, Zimbabwe and the United Nations World Tourism Organisation was signed this June, facilitating UNWTO’s 20th General Assembly in Livingstone and Victoria Falls, 13-20 August 2013.
03 Education Hard to hardest in a game count
08 Conservation WANTED! Have You seen this bird?
11 TOURISM Warm Zim hospitality for ATA world congress
26 Culture Leader’s passion reveals the future
31 TOURISM PHOTO: KarlienGeldenhuys, Zambia
Victoria Falls Bridge
By Blessing Munyenyiwa
I
was there and I was asked to give my view of what this meant to me, having been at the heart of tourism in this area for many years. It was hard for me to contain my excitement – I believe this event will be for Zambia and Zimbabwe what the 2010 FIFA World Cup was to South Africa. Zambia and Zimbabwe will jointly co-host the General Assembly, the first time it has
Kafue recovers a glorious past
been co-hosted, and only the second time it has been held in Africa after the inaugural event in 2007 in Senegal. This is truly an honour for our two nations and an opportunity to jointly show the world what great countries and hosts we both are. The event will not only benefit Zambia and Zimbabwe but the entire southern African region. What makes our jointly owned waterfall even greater is that, standing on the historic bridge that joins our nations
together, there are five countries, 25 national parks, 11 000 hotel and lodge beds and seven international airports within a radius of 500 kms. There is no other place in the world that has these attractions around one of the seven Natural Wonders of the World. Our Zambian and Zimbabwean Heads of State, our respective Honorable Ministers of Tourism and His Excellency the UNWTO Secretary General all shared in the most memorable day in my entire tourism career -
Signing on Victoria Falls Bridge
having spent at least part of that time with world leaders in tourism and hospitality at Disney World and Disney Cruise Lines. UNWTO has 176 member nations and the General Assembly is hosted every two years, so for the current generation of people in Zambia and Zimbabwe this is an event that will not be repeated in their
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY, ZIMBABWE
lives, or likely in the lives of the next few generations either. Livingstone, Zambia, and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, share perhaps the most beautiful waterfall in the world and a World Heritage Site. This is a golden opportunity for both our countries and we invite the world to share this event with us and experience one special destination.
46 Angling Caught! The elusive great Zambezi Shark
Regulars Chobe 3, Okavango 7, Hwange 10, Victoria Falls 11, Lusaka 21, Livingstone 23, Kafue 31, Luangwa 32, Kariba & Middle Zambezi 33, Harare 39, Cahorra & Tete 41, Letters 47
CR E ATE E X TR AOR DINARY MEMOR IES. www.suninternational.com
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2012/05/02 4:16 PM
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KAZA
News bites from the new world of TFCAs PHOTO: SANHU
Things are happening along the length of the Zambezi as the politicians and conservationists together make progress in linking important wildlife areas. By Alan Sparrow
Liuwa Plain-Mussuma TFCA Starting close to the source or the Zambezi River… the Liuwa P lains-Mussuma Transfrontier Conser vation Area is gearing up. The governments of Angola and Zambia are working towards formalising the new TFCA. This initiative will expand the area available to the annual wildebeest migration and will link the Kameia National Park in Angola to the Liuwa Plains National Park in Zambia. Launch of the KAZA TFCA On 15 March 2012 the Ministers responsible for environment, wildlife, natural
Dr Efran Lungu, Zambia’s Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs and Tourism; Mr Francis Nhema, Zimbabwe’s Minister of Tourism, Environment and Natural Resources, Mrs Netumbo Nandi-Ndaitwah, Namibia’s Minister of Environment and Tourism, Mr Kitso Mokaila, Botswana’s Minister of Environment, Wildlife and Tourism and Mr Pedro Mutindi, Angola’s Minister of Hotels and Tourism hold the Kaza TFCA treaty. The Zimbabwe cultural group performing at the Katima Mulilo launch
resources, hotels and tourism of the Republics of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe hosted various stakeholders in the town of Katima Mulilo, Namibia to celebrate the official launch of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA). The TFCA was formally established on 18th August 2011 when at the SADC Summit in Luanda, Angola, the Presidents of
the Republics of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe signed the KAZA Treaty. The KAZA Treaty was unveiled to the stakeholders during the official launch in Katima Mulilo, Namibia where the concept of the KAZA TFCA was initially mooted in July 2003. Elsewhere in the KAZA TFCA The Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy
is making great progress. This is a partnership of two chiefdoms: that of Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta and of Chief Sekute. Initial work is being carried out this winter to make way for the first translocation of wildlife into the Simalaha Floodplains next winter. This wildlife area will eventually link the elephant populations south of the Zambezi River to those in the
Kafue National Park. 2012 has seen an increased movement of elephant heading across the Zambezi River into Zambia and Angola. Elephant restraining lines have been set up around communities living close to the borders of the Sioma Ngwezi National Park. This has reduced the number of crop raiding incidents by elephant.
PHOTO: SANHU
Lower Zambezi-Mana Pools TFCA The preparatory work has been finalised for the formal declaration of the TFCA by the Governments of Zambia and Zimbabwe. This TFCA has exciting potential to create one of the finest transfrontier parks in Africa. Things are happening along the Zambezi River!
Zambezi News
chobe TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
3
Education
From hard to hardest in a game count
PHOTO: Kelly Landen
Counting Zebra is quite tricky
Four students from the University of Puget Sound studying both natural and social sciences counted large herbivores in Chobe National Park along a waterfront transect in May. Excerpts from an article by Rachel De Motts and Dr. Mike Chase
E
lephants Without Borders works throughout the five country KAZA area, having established a long-term monitoring prog ramme by conducting wildlife population surveys in
both the wet and dry season. EWB also maintains extensive collaborations with other researchers and students to gather more data in their ongoing efforts to help sustain Chobe’s wildlife. One such effort was undertaken in May by students from the University of Puget Sound, a small liberal arts
college near Seattle, Washington, under the supervision of Professor Rachel DeMotts, a faculty member in the university ’s Environmental Policy and Decision-Making Programme. Four students studying both natural and social sciences counted large herbivores in Chobe National Park along a waterfront transect. The group counted baboons, bushbuck, elephants, giraffe, hippo, impala, kudu, lechwe, puku, sable, waterbuck, and zebra
from the back of Elephant Without Border’s Land Rover, constantly scanning the landscape for wildlife and learning how difficult it can be to tell just how many zebra there are in a herd. Part of the challenge also stemmed from the effort to remain focused on the count when surrounded by so many different kinds of wildlife.
International Political Economy. But the students also had a fantastic time observing and learning about Chobe’s flourishing wildlife, as they saw everything from a secretary bird to a pride of lions devouring a freshly killed kudu.
“I have a much greater appreciation for the challenges of EWB’s work after having to count wildlife myself,” said Jason Rison, a junior studying
However, the most impacting moment, came from watching a herd of elephants mourning the death of a 3-4 year old youngster, as a female,
PHOTO: Kelly Landen
Students from Seattle USA
presumed to be its mother struggled to push the dead one to its feet. “It was hard to watch, really emotional, but I am really glad we saw it,” said Lindsey Coulson, a sophomore biology student. For the complete article read online
MORE ONLINE http://www.zambezitraveller. com/destination/chobe
Uniquely located in the North-Eastern corner of Botswana where the four African nations of Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia converge, Chobe Marina Lodge is surrounded by the natural beauty of Africa.
• The lodge offers accommodation in thatched studios, apartments, chalets and suites with private lounges and modern comforts overlooking the Chobe River.
•Chobe Marina Lodge houses a stylish, state-of-the-art conference
venue, ideal for product launches and corporate events with views across the Caprivi Strip.
•Attractions include: Game drives into the world renowned Chobe
National Park, game cruises, fishing for the famed tigerfish, golf and of course day trips to the mighty Victoria Falls where you can experience an elephant back safari or gorge swing across the Zambezi or view the falls from a helicopter.
•We are situated a mere 8 km's away from Kasane Airport. Tel: +267 625 2221 • Fax +267 625 2224
E-mail: res1@chobemarinalodge.com • www.chobemarinalodge.com
aha african hotels & adventures
zambezi chobe
4 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
History
History of Chobe National Park – Part 9 By Judy Hepburn
COMMUN ITY
Quiz night helps local dogs Kasane BSPCA held a quiz night to raise funds for the sterilisation of local dogs.
T
Williams enclosed a draft notice for publication by the protectorate’s governing body, in the event that the planned reserve was approved. He outlined the recommended boundaries which had been decided in consultation with local cattle ranchers and those involved with the exporting of cattle across the Zambezi River into then Northern Rhodesia. His proposal to the High Commissioner included a hand marked map indicating the boundaries. The map, from our Botswana Archives in Gaborone, includes a proposed railway line feeding off the Bulawayo to Victoria Falls line, clearly showing the intention to build a link to Walvis Bay in then South West Africa. This trans-Kalahari railway is still being debated with Namibia and would give Botswana the opportunity to access an Atlantic sea port. Williams’ draft included a comprehensive list of the species of wildlife found in the Chobe and Savuti area. Even in 1960 the black rhino
PHOTO: BETTINA KELLY
he Acting Resident High Commissioner of Bechuana land M.R.Williams outlined the proposed establishment of Chobe Game Reserve in a *savingram addressed to the High Commissioner in Pretoria, South Africa, dated 16 June 1960.
From left: Rex Kelly, Florian Stiebock, Sue Slogrove, Kristin Lawson
By Kasane Chapter, BSPCA PHOTO: Peter Hepburn
Old map of Chobe National Park
His proposal to the High Commissioner included a hand marked map indicating the boundaries. was recorded as becoming increasingly rare. Sadly neither species of rhino are found in the park any longer. The Chobe bushbuck with its beautiful delicate and perfect markings was also listed but is another animal now rarely seen. In the last two decades the numbers of Chobe bushbuck have diminished sharply. A few bushbuck have taken refuge in the confines of the Chobe Game Lodge, to the great delight of staff and guests. Along this stretch of riverbank the vegetation has
Toro Safari Lodge Botswana - Chobe - Kasane Area
“Come and enjoy your break on the banks of the Chobe River where 2 rivers and 4 African countries meet”
been protected from foreverfamished pachyderms and has enabled the few remaining bushbuck to survive. A researcher, Joanne Addy,
RATES The following recommended entrance fees were enclosed with the archived documents which we were able to study and photograph at the National Archives in Gaborone.
*1. 10/- per car containing 4 persons (period of 4 days). 2. No charge for children under 16. 3. 5/- per head for each and every occupant in car above 4 years. 4. Season entrance permits £2 per car up to 4 occupants. 5. Season entrance permits to cover plot and store owners at Serondellas. 6. Free permits to be issued to all bonafide journeys to Katchikau area. 7. Entrance fees shall be payable regardless of race. That was 1960 – to compare, the cost of a day trip today for 4 self drive foreign visitors is now P 120 ( £14) per person and P50 (£5) for the car. */ - symbol for shilling
completed a study in the early 1990s on the depleted population of bushbuck in the Park. ZT will share some of her observations and results in a future issue. While Department officials in Mafeking and Francistown deliberated on regulations, costs and charges for the Chobe Game Reserve, the ground work continued. The Chobe River Hotel built by Charles and Ethnee Trevor, which I erroneously referred to as the Chobe Safari Lodge in issue 3, had been operating for a few years and had attracted a loyal number of tourists who had discovered the charm of the Chobe. Pat Hepburn and his staff, including the newly appointed game ranger Rob Backus along with Mike Slogrove, who would from time to time stand in as Park Warden for Pat, did their best to establish the status quo with guides and guests from the hotel and the new restrictions being imposed. *Savingrams were introduced during Ramsey MacDona l d ’s co a l i ti o n g ove rn m e nt (c.1931) as a means of cutting service expenditure.
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he Kasane Chapter of the Botswana Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals would like to acknowledge all friends and supporters who participated in the first annual SPCA Pub Quiz Night in Kasane. Thanks to the generosity and support of many benefactors we raised enough money to sterilize and vaccinate nearly 100 dogs belonging to local residents unable to afford this important service. With the support of the Kasane community, we are doing our part to prevent the further overpopulation of ownerless dogs, hamper the spread of canine disease, and care for abused, neglected and abandoned domestic animals. We can never thank the following individuals, organizations and businesses enough for their generous sponsorship: African Easel, Aliboats, Bottle Pan Safaris, CARACAL, Chobe Beverages, Chobe Distributors, Chobe District Council, Chobe Holdings, Chobe Properties, Chobe Safari Lodge, Coffee Buzz, Elephant Valley Lodge, Garden Lodge, Global Holdings, Kalahari Holiday Tours, Kasane Computers, Kubu Lodge, KwaManingi, Pandamatenga Butchery, Linyanti Explorations, Maun Animal Welfare Society, Pangolin Photographic Safaris, Pizza Plus, The Pride of the Zambezi, SGS Africa, Spar Kasane, Thebe River Safaris, Twin Cactus Productions, Quiz Master extraordinaire Grant Nel of Enviro 911, Graham Veldsman and all friends who came out to play! Thus far, we have sterilized and vaccinated 705 dogs with the help of Vets on Wheels and the Maun Animal Welfare Society. Although we’re proud of all we have accomplished, there is so much more to be done! We have big plans for the remainder of 2012, including another sterilization campaign and the construction of an animal shelter. Currently, we are working with Chobe Land Board to secure a plot on which to construct a shelter to house abandoned and ownerless dogs and cats. We hope for continued support of our future efforts! See you at the next SPCA Pub Quiz Night in Kasane!
Contact details: Tel: +267 76 614 211 Email: kwalape@africasafaricamps.com
Situated in the Heart of Kasane we offer the following; » Chobe Full Day Trips – Options available » Victoria Falls Day Trips – Options available » Game Cruises | Game Drives | Fishing Trips Transfers to and from Vic Falls, Zambia and Namibia
Accommodation Executive rooms, River Chalets, Standard Chalets, Private Ablutions, Campsites
Activities 3 hr game drive, sunset boat cruise into Chobe National Park and sunset boat cruise to where the four countries meet. Transfers to Victoria Falls. Tiger Fishing. Relax in our Restaurant & Bar PO Box 511, Kasane, Botswana Tel +(267) 6252694 Fax +(267)6252695 torolodge@botsnet.bw www.torolodge.co.bw
We can tailor make your safari to suit your specific needs be it a Game drive or Boat cruise. Our reservations team operates 24 hours a day to conveniently book your safari or just that simple enquiry you may have. All our guides are professional at what they do and they will leave a lasting impression of your visit to Botswana.
Time is for spending; spend it wisely with Chobezi Hylton Ross Touring Safari, and it will be time well spent.
• Chalets, ensuite with air con • Safari tents with shared ablution facilities • Private camp sites with shared ablution facilities
• Restaurant and sunset bar • Pool and bar area • Conference facility • Activities: Game drive, boat cruises, fishing, Vic Falls day trips
Kwalape means ‘at home’ in Setswana
Call us on +267 6250992, 6251667 Fax +267 6251297 Emergency 24 hour Mobile +267 76201918 E mail: info@chobezi.com / operations@chobezi.com / chobezi@yahoo.com
zambezi chobe
Travellers Friend 5
Elephant Footprints
PHOTO: Kelly Landen
Ambassador at large Balozi, Chobe’s elephant ambassador
literally translates as ‘Ambassador.’ Balozi is a big bull that was fitted with a satellite telemetry collar in Chobe’s Forest Reserve in March 2012, as part of EWB’s wildlife monitoring programme.
By Kelly Landen
H
ave you seen this elephant ? Meet Elepha nts W it hout Borders’ (EW B) ne west a mba ssador for conser vation, k now n as CH60 or ‘Balozi ’ which
Northern Botswana has six forest reserves; Kasane,
BIRDING
Birding opens young eyes PHOTO: Isabel Moore
Children from Kasane and Kazungula Primary schools were led by members of BirdLife on an exploratory bird walk in March
Learning about birds in Chobe
By Phil Zappala Students from Kasane and Kazungula Primary schools were led by members of the community on a bird walk in March. It was a great opportunity for the
children, who are the future of conservation in the Chobe region, to get out of the classroom and explore nature first hand. The children spent most of the morning bird watching as well as talking about different animals that inhabit the seep, an accessible stretch of river front with natural springs between Kasane and Kazungula. Over 30 different species of birds were identified throughout the morning including the Yellow Wagtail, Kittlitz Plover and Water Thick-knee to name a few. The children were encouraged to point out birds and help to identify them using features such as colour and size.
Kasane Extension, Chobe, Kazuma, Maikaelelo and Sibuyu, all within the Chobe District, which act as buffer zones, providing important ecological links between tribal lands and the country’s best known protected area, Chobe National Park. Forest reserves are important habitats for wildlife species such as elephant, roan, eland and sable. Currently, there is limited knowledge on the seasonal distribution and abundance of wildlife populations within the region. What we do know is that the district has the country’s largest elephant population, estimated seasonally between 45-60,000. Because of these large elephant numbers, wildlife management authorities are increasingly concerned about the effects that elephant are having on vegetation, as well as increasing conflicts with local communities. S i mu l t a n e o u s l y, l a n d encroachment for agriculture and human settlement also poses a threat to wildlife
Conservation issues were also discussed between sightings, such as the increased amount of litter polluting the environment, which was a real concern amongst the children. Each group took the opportunity to clean up as we walked along, with the children determined to see the area clean and tidy. Both BirdLife Kasane and CARACAL were involved in the initiative and plan to carry out such activities on a regular basis. It is due to the generosity of people in both public and private sectors that these events can take place. Find out more about educational activities on phil@sgsafrica.com or caracal@botsnet.bw. Upcoming events include a waterbird count in July and vulture nest count in August.
conservation. Feasibility studies on ecotourism activities in the forest reserves have been conducted and there is increasing interest from the tourism sector to conduct tourism operations, while continual allocation of farming land bordering the forest reserves threatens to block important seasonal migration routes for wildlife such as zebra. This complex mosaic of forest reserves, national parks, agricultural fields, grazing lands and human settlement, interspersed with diverse natural communities, poses significant challenges for conservation in the district. Management authorities require reliable information to ensure the sustainable development of these areas. EWB’s monitoring projects, combining aerial survey data with wildlife telemetry studies, provide decision makers with information for developing conservation management programmes. Balozi’s name certainly seems appropriate as he is a wonderful representative for conser vation awareness, moving throughout the Chobe district, including Chobe National Park, Kasane township and adjacent forest reserves. Keep your eyes and cameras out! If you are lucky enough to spot him, you can help the monitoring team by sending any photos and observational notes to EWB at info@elephantswithoutborders.org.
Development
Cultural park planned for Kasane
PHOTO: Kelly Landen
Zambezi Traveller
Seboba auditorium under construction
By Ntana Mokganedi The Seboba Community Trust based in Kasane, through the assistance of Botswana Tourism Organisation, has embarked on a project to construct a cultural and recreational park on 21 ha of prime land along the Chobe river front. The project came about after the Kasane community identified the area as ideal for recreational activities coupled with conservation ideals. The community appreciated the need to diversify the tourism product from the wildlife and wilderness experience to a community based cultural and heritage tourism product, to benefit the local community and the international and local tourist markets. The project is being implemented in two phases; the first will include the gate house, traditional performance arena and cultural village – depicting and celebrating cultures found in the Chobe region, and specifically those of the Basubia, Banambia, Batawana and Basarwa tribes. The second phase entails an administration building to house a curio shop with an associated craft workshop and an information centre. Other components of this second phase will include walking trails interspersed with elevated viewing decks, public picnic areas and fishing spots. Project objectives:Chobe tourism product diversification. Promotion of ecotourism principles that ensure sustainability in the tourism industry. Local community economic empowerment and access to the riverfront. The project is expected to be completed by the end of 2012 and to start operating early in 2013.
www.elephantswithoutborders.org.
A big five safari destination! Kasane – Chobe – Botswana
Lodge and Camping Accommodation: A variety of options from family and twin rooms with ensuites in our lodges and camping. All amenities including a bar, restaurant and swimming pool. Activities: Chobe National Park game drives and boat cruises are available daily. Chobe Day trips from Victoria Falls or Livingstone include breakfast and a lunch cruise – an all day activity. Mobile safaris: Explore Chobe, Savuti, Moremi, Okavango, Nxai Pan, Makgadikgadi and Deception Valley. Choose from budget, semi participation, semi-luxury or tailor made safaris.
Telephone: +267 6250 995 / Fax: +267 6250 314 Email: thebe@chobenet.com / reservations@theberiversafaris.com
www.theberiversafaris.com
zambezi chobe
History
COURTESY: LYN FRANCEY & GEOFF WILLIAMS
Chirper goes nostalgic
Sketch of Savas Store, September, 1993
Those great old days of hand-made bread and hange, it is said, hand-pumped fuel
By the Chobe Chirper
C
is inev itable and Kasane, the town that services the Chobe, has seen its fair share of transformation since the Chirper first pulled into town in the late seventies. The three small shops, manned by bored personnel,
that once under-supplied the village have been replaced by large, professionally run supermarkets that burst at the seams with choice. The original lodge that looked older than its then quarter century has been
transformed into a slick modern establishment and has been joined by a slew of equally impressive hotels. Respected clothing chains, furniture shops and fast food outlets have sprung up and even schwarmas can be obtained around the clock. How progressive is that? The bank that was a twig rather than a branch was so small that just three clients filled it and service was so interminably slow that customers took their deckchairs along to warm themselves outside in the sunny queue, has now been replaced by two modern banks that vie to outperform each other in efficiency. Bread today issues forth in copious quantities from steaming bakeries and yet there was a certain charm in earlier days in visiting the old Portuguese baker who sometimes pulled aside the tatty curtain that separated his bedroom from the bakery and shook clear his hangover to produce the fluffiest rolls seen south of the Zambezi.
Zambezi Traveller
The hand-operated petrol pump has been superseded by three service stations, coffee shops, internet cafes, bottle stores, bureaux de change and just about everything else a tourist might need. There is a buzz around town when the tourist season starts as game drive vehicles absorb armies of travellers, boats outnumbering the Spanish Armada bob on blue waters and shiny-faced guides strut about in their pressed khakis. Kasane is now a flourishing tourist town. And yet, amidst the madding crowd and the humming credit card machines, the Chirper wishes that for just one more time he could wander down the deserted village road, deck chair in hand, to check if the baker has deemed it a day to honour the world with his tasty rolls.
OBITUARY
Truly a professional hunter In memory of Fred Bartlett By Heather Carr - Hartley We pay tribute to a well-known pioneer of Chobe, Frederick George Bartlett. Frederick George Bartlett was born on 5 March, 1923, in Nairobi, Kenya. After serving in the Second World War, he returned to the family farm. He soon became involved in conservation and became a warden in the Kenya Game Department. Later he became a Professional Hunter, and the word ‘Professional’ is exactly what he was. Bartlett hunted in Kenya and Tanzania with Ker & Downey, later moving to Botswana, and was one of the senior directors and partners of Hunters Africa, in Kasane. Bartlett and his son-in-law Peter Kibble built the original Old House, while Fred and his wife ‘Jock’ also built a house in Victoria Falls where they lived from 1969 to 1980. During his retirement he
Photo: Cecil Bartlet
6 Travellers Friend
Fred Bartlet
wrote a book titled‘Shoot Straight, Stay Alive.’ He is deeply missed by Elizabeth (Jock), his wife of 65 years. They had four children, Cecil, Elizabeth, Richard (pre-deceased) and Brian and nine grandchildren and great grandchildren, his nephew Michael, and their family in Australia.
Advertise in the Chobe Classifieds Karen Clemence
P O Box 40, Kasane, Botswana Tel: +267 625 0384 Fax: +267 625 0223 Email: chobe@mega.bw
+267 75968294 Jo Clemence
Accounting & Secretarial
Bureau de Change Cape 2 Cairo Bureau de Change: Have changed there email addresses! You can now reach them on the following: cape2cairo@botsnet.bw & cape2cairo.jo@botsnet.bw . Look forward to hearing from you.
Coffee Shop New company fully operational by the 1st of July 2012 Catering to small and medium companies. All bookkeeping, Accounting and tax registration needs. Contact Jo Clemence
00267 71617602 or email us on bardot.botswana@gmail.com
Kasane Christian Bookshop - New stock Bibles, books, CD/DVD’s, flowers, wreaths, gifts and more. Moved to front of Audi Centre
Automotive Auto World - Spare parts and accessories for all local and imported vehicles. Opposite new bus rank, Kasane. Phone +267 625 2777, Fax +267 625 2666
The Coffee Buzz is situated on the Kasane main
road in a beautiful secluded garden. We are fully licenced so come in and enjoy beer and wine with your meal. Menu includes: Breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers, muffins & daily specials. Open Monday to Saturday, 7.30am to 14.00pm. Contact us, facebook: coffee buss Kasane, phone +267 71318956.
Computers & Internet Kasane Computers. Internet café, WiFi zone,
photocopying, laminating, bidning, typing, rubber stamps, ink cartridges, toners, CD/DVDs, PCs/ Laptops, printers, PC repairs and more. Offices – Audi Centre, Kasane (opp. Chobe Marina lodge) and Kazungula Junction (near Engen Garage). Phone +267 625 2313 or fax +267 625 2537 or email: info@kasanecomputers.com
FLAME DIVISION (PTY) LTD TRADING AS
SPECIALISE IN ALL VEHICLE REPAIRS MAINTENANCE AND OVERHAULS Contact Mike T: 71264875 / 73643003 Plot 37, Pula Road P.O.Box 755, Kasane. Botswana
KAZUNGULA INDUSTRIAL
Logistics & Supply Transport and Supply of 30 tonne loads from
Johannesburg, Harare, Bulawayo to Victoria Falls, Kasane, Livingstone and Lusaka. Bricks, cement, quarry stone, thatching grass and timber. Contact: +263 772 144996 or +263 9 232376
+267 72116479
ztchobe@gmail.com
Purified Water Bottling Aquarite Botswana: Manufactures of purified bottled water and purified soda water. Refill your containers with purified wagter at a fraction of the cost. Based in Kasane (next to Tyremax in Kazangula) and Maun. Contact had office: +267 686 0283 or Lorraine +267 72989574.
Air-Con & Refrigeration
Look no further!
NOW OPEN In Kazungula
For all your outboard motor spares and accessory requirements Contact: Susan TEL: 6251575 CELL: 74111891 Email: honda@africansecrets.net Located at the Kazungula Junction
SERAME AIR-CON & REFRIGERATION For all your air-conditioning and refrigeration needs inc: Sales, Service, Repairs and Installation. We supply LG, Dunham-Bush and Elegance air-conditioners. Contact us for a FREE no obligation quote. No job to big or small. P.O. Box 686, Kasane Tel: (00267) 71771753/76108698 email: mikeclemence@yahoo.com
Tour Operators Serval Safaris NOW OFFERING
Boat cruises Game drives Day trips Fishing Camping Safaris Transfers
Contact:Webby Tel:6251575 Cell:71746274 Email:servel@africansecrets.net Located at the Kazungula Junction
Wellness Spa
Umpengu Tours
KwaManingi Spa : Massage, Manicures, Pedicures, Facials,Waxing Contact Dorothy on (+267) 73179976
Internet & Wifi Hot & Cold drinks Pay phone Botswana Maps Postcards Ice Cubes & Blocks Curios & African Memorabalia Zambezi Traveller
Camping overnight in Chobe 1 Night @ USD190 pp all inclusive. Mobile Safaris – Chobe Savuti, Moremi etc 5 nights @ USD1100 pp all inclusive. Boat Cruises and game drives Chobe Day Trip Victoria Falls – visit the magnificent Victoria Falls Transfers available
Chobe Day Trips
Game drives, boat cruises, border pickup. Livingstone and Victoria Falls day trips Cultural village tours No 1 Lady Travel Agent Beside Spar complex, Kasane Ph: +267 625 0131 or +267 716 25521 jeilatravel@yahoo.co.uk joyce.chika@yahoo.com
Shop 14/15, Hunters Africa Next to KFC - (Spar Complex) Tel/Fax: + 267 6252483 Shop 1E, Kazungula Junction Shopping Mall Tel: +267 6252485 Email:cape2cairo@botsnet.bw Cell: +267 72116479 / 72138618 www.cape2cairobureau.com
Honda Marine Agency
Camping Safaris Transfers Educational Tours Lodge Accommodation Chobe Game Drives Boat Cruises and Fishing Victoria Falls Day Trips www.classifiedsafaris.com Tel: +267 71691259 +267 71421153 +267 7253 7162, Kasane Botswana Email: classifiedsafaris@botsnet.bw bookings@classifiedsafaris.com
Plot 10 Kazungula, Botswana Ph: +267 717 8801 or +267 715 16924
100% Motswana owned company
MORE ONLINE
View our growing list of companies in Chobe on our online directory. Get your company listed today www.zambezitraveller.com
The Z ambezi River is now officially online
Okavango on your way to the Zambezi
7
CULTURE
A lifestyle on the edge of extinction The San are the only remaining Africans who still live with nature in the true sense of the word. By David Dugmore
T
he San are the only remaining Africans that still live with nature in the true sense of the word. Meno A Kwena Safari camp on the banks of the Boteti River in the Makgadikgadi Pans includes the skills of the San people from around the area to enhance our guests’ safari experience. The brisk Kalahari morning breeze carries with it the sounds of San ‘clicking’ as the sun emerges from the long wintry night, and the human voices blend into the morning chorus of birds.
PHOTO: MENO A KWENA
San people looking at tracks
These bushmen have been walking with our guests for a year now and we are seeing excellent rewards for both people and wildlife. Our visitors see the complete picture of the magical world we live in and the importance of balance between humans and animals.
Since the emergence of modern Homo sapiens 150 000 years ago, the San people inhabited most of the southern African region. The slow migration of Bantu people southwards from north west and central Africa began about 2000 years ago.
Elephants crossing river
The San people tried to stand their ground against Bantu expansion over an extended period of time, and this can be seen in numerous archeological sites depicting the evidence of San / Bantu battle grounds.
TRAVEL
SAA adds Maun link South African Airways’ plan to expand its network into Africa’s resort destinations has hatched a new route between Johannesburg and Maun, Botswana. By Andrew Maramwidze South African Airways’ plan to expand its network into Africa’s resort destinations has hatched a new route between Johannesburg and Maun, Botswana.
The new Johannesburg-Maun route will be operated by SAA’s regional partner SA Airlink effective from 15 June. SA Airlink will use 37-seat Embraer ERJ 137 jets on the route, while the schedule has been timed to allow flights from New York to Johannesburg to Maun without layovers.
“SAA is committed to offering the most extensive route network to Africa’s best leisure and business destinations, and Maun serves as a key addition to that strategy, being the best airport from which to access the beauty of the Okavango Delta,” said Todd Neuman, SAA executive vice president for North America. “Our morning non-stop service from New York to Johannesburg will provide travellers with the fastest way to arrive in Maun so
that they may spend more time exploring some of the best game viewing on the African continent,” he said. The flights are scheduled to leave Johannesburg at 11:45 am, arriving Maun at 1:15 pm and departing Maun at 2:00 pm, arriving Johannesburg 3:40 pm. The new service complements SAA’s multiple daily flights between Johannesburg and Gaborone, Botswana, through regional partner South African Express.
The arrival of the Europeans as early as the 1400’s also had a drastic effect on the San people and it is evident that early relations were strained and often violent. The myth started that the San were a group of a ‘savage and lowly life style’. Large scale persecution of the San people on all levels has continued to the present day and has compressed the San into the least desirable living areas, deserts and arid landscapes, which has honed the San’s amazing proficiency at surviving in the harsh climate of the Kalahari. The current group of San we have at Meno A Kwena are of the super group of Kung bushmen. The three dominant clans in Botswana are the Naro, Qui and Ju Hoansi. Our group are Ju Hoansi San. This translates directly to mean ‘We are the people.’ The traditional living area of this group is Xai Xai in Botswana and Tsumkwe in Namibia.
Old World Safari Charm
Until recent times, hunting and food gathering has been a major occupation of these people, even though many types of Bantu and western style foods have crept into their diet. Their main source of food in these regions is the mongongo nut from the tree Schinziophyton rautennanii. Numerous varieties of other vegetable tubers and roots also feature dominantly, but in ideal mongongo seasons so much can be collected easily that they rarely focus on anything else. Hunting strategies for meat are extremely varied with many types of animals being sought. The larger and most prized species are the eland, kudu and giraffe. Such animals are less common in these areas today so successful hunting is not simple. The main focus now seems to be on smaller mammals such as the steenbok, duiker, porcupine, springhare and scrubhare, which form the main part of their protein intake, in addition to reptiles and tortoises. Birdlife also play an important part in the diet, particularly ostriches and their eggs. Without the opportunity to hunt and trap, the San diet becomes very limited as all of the vegetable foods collected are seasonal. This lack of continuity forces a reliance on Bantu foodstuffs such as maize meal, sorghum, butternut and other grains, which in turn perpetuates the myth of the ‘underling’ or ‘basarwa.’
B O T S WA N A
Kavango/Caprivi, Namibia
an experience you will seldom encounter on the African continent. Tel: +267 686 0981 or +267 686 1634 Cell: +267 7132 6085 kkreservations@ngami.net www.menoakwena.com
PHOTO: MENO A KWENA
Tel +264 66 259093 Cell: +264 813101730 Fax +264 66 259094 Fax to email: 088610233 Email: bookings@nundaonline.com www.nundaonline.com
The growing tourism industry in Botswana highlights the importance of involving San culture in our safaris and conservation projects. They are an integral part of our life here on the banks of the Boteti and it is becoming more and more difficult for them to sustain themselves in their traditional manner.
zambezi okavango
8 Travellers Friend
CONSERVATION in ACTION
Zambezi Traveller FACT FILE
Compiled by Peter Roberts
Counting Hornbills Birdlife Botswana thanks elephant researchers for first reliable population estimates for bird of conservation concern
D
The elephant range in Botswana coincides closely with that of the ground hornbill, and the whole Okavango Delta was thoroughly covered, as was Chobe, Nxai Pan and Makgadikgadi Pans National Parks and most
of the area north of the MaunNata road. The only area where hornbills occur but were not surveyed was the extreme east of the country. Ground hornbills are easily counted from a low-flying aircraft because of their size, are frequently found in groups, and usually take off when overflown, revealing their large wingspan and striking white flight feathers which are difficult to miss. Despite this, the survey revealed a population of only 623 (with statistical confidence limits giving a range between 387 and 858). These figures are important as they are the first objective
estimate of the national population, and are much lower than had been previously thought. Also, future counts will be directly comparable with this one and will give vital information on changing population trends. Dr Michael Chase of EWB commented “Conducting aerial surveys requires large amounts of flying time and the associated financial costs are high, so we were keen maximise the conservation benefits of the survey. Normally such surveys concentrate on larger mammal species only, but aware of the concerns relating to ground hornbill populations across the region we were keen to include them in the survey and happy to share the resulting data with Birdlife Botswana. We also counted
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In 2011 the IUCN updated their assessment of the conservation status of the species from Least
The southern ground hornbill, Bucorvus leadbeateri, is a large, slow-moving and enigmatic bird, one even the most impatient birdwatcher can recognise, watch and enjoy. Widespread throughout the woodlands and savannahs of the Zambezi basin, its deep booming call heralds the new day and is a familiar and evocative sound of the bush.
other large birds, including wattled crane, ostrich, saddlebill stork and fish eagles.” The ground hornbill is one of several bird species of conservation concern for which Birdlife Botswana requests records of sightings from the public across the country. To assist with the collection of this data, the Zambezi Traveller is launching an online ground hornbill Sightings Form on our website. We will accept records of sightings from anywhere in the southern ground hornbill’s range and pass them on to the relevant wildlife authorities, NGOs and researchers in each country (see below). www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw www.elephantswithoutborders.org www.zambezitraveller.com
Wanted! Have you seen this bird? Time for conservation action espite being so st r i k i ng i n appearance, these curious characters of the bush are often, it appears, overlooked. What little is known of their biology derives mostly from work in South Africa. There are few reliable population estimates, highlighting the importance of the recent EWB survey in Botswana, and are thought to be declining, especially outside protected areas such as National Parks, perhaps being absent from up to 75% of their former range. Habitat destruction and human persecution are suspected to be the key factors responsible for declining populations, exacerbated by the slow reproductive rate and complex social biology of the species.
A bird not to be overlooked
PHOTO: Mana Meadows
Ground hornbill in the wild
u r ing a recent extensive aerial survey of elephants in northern Botswana researcher Dr Michael Chase and his team from Elephants Without Borders also took the opportunity to count large birds as well, including the Southern ground hornbill.
The southern ground hornbill
The southern ground hornbill is in urgent need of conservation attention so that population trends can be monitored and action taken before it joins the growing ranks of species threatened with extinction. Ground hornbill
Concern to Vulnerable, a reflection of concern over population declines in southern Africa and the lack of data. There is an urgent need for data and research on the species to determine aspects of habitat use and breeding biology, information which is particularly important for establishing sound conservation strategies. To assist with the collection of data for this species, the Zambezi Traveller is launching an online ground hornbill
PHOTO: Mana Meadows
Sightings Form on our website. We’ll accept records of sightings from anywhere in its range and pass them on to the relevant wildlife authorities, NGOs and researchers in each country. You can also read in the Bulawayo Section of Zambezi Traveller online about the research work being done by the Mother Africa Trust. We are especially looking towards safari guides and people working in the safari
industry to regularly record and submit their ground hornbill sightings, and we encourage tourists to either support their efforts or, where possible, submit their own sightings, which are especially important from areas outside national parks. MORE ONLINE
Read about the ground hornbill on the Zambezi Traveller website under the Bualawayo Section.
Close up of ground hornbill
T
hese turkey-sized birds, with black plumage and vivid red patches of bare skin on the face and throat, are one of only two species of ground hornbill (the other being the Abyssinian or Northern ground hornbill), and the largest of over fifty hornbill species found across Africa and Asia. Predominantly carnivorous they spend most of the day on the ground feeding, where they are often seen pacing constantly for insects, snails, frogs, toads, lizards and snakes. Tortoises are a favoured speciality, the birds using their dagger shaped bills to extract the unlucky inhabitant from his shell. Strong but low fliers, they rarely fly above the tree-line, and show striking white primary wing feathers in flight. Keeping it in the family Ground hornbills are of particular note as being the largest co-operative breeding bird species in the world - rare behaviour among birds. Living in family groups of 3 to 8 birds (although sometimes more), comprising of a dominant breeding pair and a variable number of juveniles and sub-adult helpers, the family group all work together to support the breeding pair in raising their offspring. Birds can be aged by the development of the inflatable red skin patches on the head and neck, the younger the individual the less
PHOTO: Mana Meadows
The southern ground hornbill occurs from southern Kenya, south-west to Angola and northern Namibia, and south to Botswana and eastern South Africa. Although widespread they are sparsely distributed, and there are concerns over declines in much of their range. intense the red colouration of the skin, which can be a dull orange or even grey in immature birds. Once they are fully mature, the bare skin patches turn an intense red, while the female additionally has a patch of violet blue below the bill, which in some cases can cover most of the lower parts of the facial skin. They are long-lived birds, taking six years to reach adulthood, during which time they remain with the family group. Research from Kruger National Park recorded that pairs only breed on average only once every 2 to 3 years. However a successful fledgling may occur only once every 9 years. Adults are believed to live for as long as 35 to 40 years. This slow breeding rate is of concern to conservationists as populations will be slow to recover from declines.
Zambezi Traveller
zambezi okavango
SA AIRLINK
Travellers Friend
Hwange
10
on your way to the Zambezi
The Golden Twitch! By Brent Stapelkamp PHOTO: Brent Stapelkamp
The Hwange Birder
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rare bird causes great excitement among followers of The Hwange Birder blog. Never would I have believed that I would be associated with ‘blogging’ or ‘twitching,’ but when you have been in the bush too long, as some would say, you eventually succumb to one eccentricity or another and mine just happens to be birds. I live and work full time in Hwange National Park and have done for several years now and in that time I have come to appreciate that Hwange has some of the most exciting birds and birding in the region. My life list is 660 species but still she throws me a ‘lifer’ or two now and again! I set up a blog in January 2012, called it ‘The Hwange Birder’ and have not looked back since. Designed to try and promote Hwange as a birding destination, it has grown from just a few obscure followers (thanks Mum and Dad) to about 520 regular visitors. People are now following it from ‘post to post’ (excuse the blogging pun) and its momentum is as far reaching as Madagascar and the Middle East. I try and feed my followers with all the latest sightings and news from the birds in Hwange and one such bird had us falling over ourselves and forgetting our children! The Golden Twitch, as I now call it, started with a whisper in a dark alley somewhere about the rarest of the rare… the yellow form of the Crimson-
Crimson breasted shrike
breasted Shrike! The bird had been seen in the car park at Main Camp but it sounded just too good to be true. A week later, I was sitting at the office when an unknown number appeared on my cell phone and as I answered I just heard “Brent, you will never guess what I have here!” I did not give the caller the time to say any more before I was in my cruiser at warp-speed (well past wheel-wobble speed anyway!) and heading for Main Camp. The post and photo I put on my blog that day received more hits than any other before and suddenly there were people turning up at the campsite asking “Where is it?” News spreads fast in today’s world but between twitchers it is like broadband on Red Bull! As it turns out there are actually two yellow individuals of the Crimson-breasted Shrike in that particular car park, with one being an adult and the other a juvenile. Many people have seen and photographed them now but to my knowledge no-one has that impossibly rare and unique shot of a yellow feeding a yellow… but I will keep you posted! Website: http://hwangebirder. blogspot.com
Birding
A myna problem? By Peter Roberts
The common or Indian myna, Acridotheres tristis, a controversial non indigenous species in southern Africa, has been recorded breeding in Hwange National Park, generating much debate among ornithologists. Alien invasions are usually the stuff of futuristic sciencefiction and Hollywood movies. However the aliens are already here; and they are spreading. ‘Alien’ in these terms does not refer to little green men, but is a conservation term relating to non-native species, often introduced by man. Once established they spread rapidly, often with negative impacts on native flora and fauna. In this case our alien is a troublesome bird – the common myna. The myna is a mediumsized chocolate-brown bird, with a yellow beak, eye patch, feet and legs. The head, throat and tail are black, with the tail having white tips and white under-tail feathers. The large white patches in the wings are noticeably visible in flight.
Myna’s are noisy birds often found in pairs or small groups spending a lot of time on the ground feeding. Although they breed in pairs, during the non-breeding season they can congregate in large flocks. Native to central and southern Asia, the common or Indian myna, has been introduced, either intentionally or accidentally, into many other parts of the world, including Australia, Israel, Canada and Hawaii. Widely regarded as a pest species, they thrive in close association with humans, exploiting modified habitats in and around towns and cities, especially farmland, parks, gardens, roadsides and rubbish dumps. The species originally established a foothold in South Africa in 1902 when captive birds escaped into the wild in Durban. By 1953 mynas were widely distributed in the coastal areas and KwaZuluNatal midlands. It is believed that additional birds were also introduced to Johannesburg
PHOTO: Rajiv Lather
Birding
Indian myna, Acridotheres tristis
during the 1930s. Numbers have now multiplied into millions and spread across much of eastern South Africa. Introduced to South Africa at the beginning of the twentieth century, they are now a familiar sight in the urban centers of Durban, Johannesburg and Pretoria. In the last decade they have also become increasingly frequent in the southern regions of Mozambique, Botswana and Zimbabwe, and are steadily expanding their range northwards. At the end of last year a pair of the birds was discovered at Shapi Pan in Hwange National Park. They had evidently bred and were seen with at least one fledgling. The record caused
Obituary
Elias Banda an outstanding ornithologist By Brent Stapelkamp The Hwange Birder,
MORE ONLINE
Hwange Main Camp’s Restaurant makes a comeback
Over the last eighteen months many Hwange National Park regulars have been pleasantly surprised to see that Waterbuck’s Head Restaurant at Main Camp has reopened. It had been closed from 2007 – 2010 owing to lack of business. http://www.zambezitraveller. com/destination/hwange
Tribute to an Outstanding Ornithologist - Mr Elias Banda (1960 - 2012) On Friday the 1st of June 2012, Hwange and the greater ornithological world in Zimbabwe lost a real treasure. Elias “the bird man” Banda was a man of unequalled passion for the birds of Hwange and a familiar face to many people that visited the park. He was taken away from us far too young and at 52 years old had many years of“birding”left in him. He was a Ranger with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority and was
assigned to the Research department. As lion researchers we were always out in the field with him and came to know and love the man a great deal. The image of him above was taken at a lion capture and believe me those ever present binoculars around his neck were for birds and not to to keep his eyes out for the rest of the pride!
NEW
the complete safari Deep within Northern Hwange National Park Classic Safari Camp, 8 rooms with en suit facilities Game Drives Walking Safaris Night Drives Birding Private waterhole with log hide
An unforgettable encounter with wild Africa
www.camphwange.com info@camphwange.com
Miombo Safari Camp is now open! With new eco friendly treehouses and revamped and renovated entertaiment areas. Enjoy the old ambience but with a totally new experience! Our all year round waterhole gives you the chance to see elephants and buffalo amongst other game close up. Contact us for our specials for residents and visiting family and friends!
US$125 Full board
(includes lunch/dinner / breakfast and all teas and
concern amongst ornithologists, not only because it marks the spread of the breeding population north from Bulawayo, where they have become established in recent years, but it is also unusual as breeding records in southern Africa have previously been restricted to urban environments, and this may be the first breeding record in a wild environment. But it is their potential impact on native wildlife that is causing most concern for conservationists. Mynas are aggressive towards other breeding birds and are thought to directly compete with, and often displace, many native hollow-nesting bird species, such as barbets and woodhoopoes. They have also been recorded preying directly on other birds’ eggs and chicks. In 2000 the IUCN Species Survival Commission declared the myna among the world’s 100 worst invasive species, one of only three bird species to make the list (the other two being the European starling and red-vented bulbul). The expansion of the myna is being monitored by Birdlife Zimbabwe and information on sightings may be sent to wildfire@mweb.co.zw
RATES
Contact your local agent or Miombo directly at: Bulawayo - Tel: +2639462765. Cell: +263772278230 bonnie@africanencounter.Org Miombo - Tel: +26318695, miombo2@mweb.co.zw Cell Miombo Camp + 263712640357
US$250 All inclusive
(includes game drives, drinks and full Board)
Miombo Is Situated On The Boundary Of The Park 15 Minutes Drive From Main Camp
One of the best stories that we will remember about Elias is that he was very good at stuffing birds that he had found dead in the park. One day an injured European Bee-eater that I had found and handed to my wife died and so she gave it to Elias to stuff for the museum. A couple of days later he presented it to her with a belly full of his wife’s hair extensions as he had run out of cotton wool! As perhaps a final tribute to him, when we were laying him to rest on his little plot in the Mabale communal lands on Saturday, an African Harrier Hawk flew low and slowly over the crowd and into a nearby tree. Fambai zvakanaka Baba! The Hwange Birder
Tom’s Safari House
“Tom’s Safari House at The Hide” available for exclusive bookings upto 8 guests, children of any age welcome. In Celebrating 20 years of Safari Excellence. Tel: (263-4) 498835/6 Email: reservations@thehide.co.zw www.thehide.com
10% off your next stay with us at The Hide. Offer valid 1 June - 30 July 2012, 16 Oct - 15 Dec 2012. Quote: ZamTrav12 - Terms and Conditions apply.
Zambezi News
victoria falls TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
11
TOURISM
Warm Zimbabwean hospitality for ATA world congress
PHOTO:TOM VARLEY
The majestic Victoria Falls
T
he 37th annual Africa Travel Association cong ress was t h is year hosted by Zimbabwe in Victorial Falls, from 18 – 22 May. The attendance was higher than expected with over 500 national and international delegates including 16 government ministers from the region and beyond. The event was well organized by the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority and has given Zimbabwe a chance to show off, as
stated by Ray Charles, the US Ambassador to Zimbabwe, it’s ‘World of Wonders.’ ATA serves both the public and private sectors in the international travel and tourism industry; this year’s theme was ‘African Tourism: Partnering for the Future.’ T h e c o n f e re n c e w a s officially opened by VicePresident Mujuru who is the Tourism Patron. She thanked ATA for holding the congress
in Zimbabwe and urged the industry to be more dynamic to sustain a competitive edge, and attain and maintain a significant share in the global tourism and travel market. The ATA executive director, Edward Bergman said “We are positive that the congress will be a major turnaround for the country’s tourism.” He added that it was decided to hold the event in Zimbabwe to allow international tourism delegates, travel and tour operators
One delegate commented “Very little beats the warm Zimbabwean hospitality, I will be back”. and the international media to have a better understanding of the situation in the country. The conference included a wide range of networking events, all exploring ways to improve and promote mar-
keting initiatives to African destinations. Topics such as the introduction of a univisa to facilitate travel within the region, and the need for more flights into the region to increase accessibility and stimulate competition and growth, were discussed at length. The event also saw the election of Zimbabwe Tourism and Hospitality Industry Minister Walter Mzembi as president of the Africa Travel Association. He will preside
over the affairs of the USbased organization for the next two years. Over the duration of the congress delegates were given the opportunity to experience the diversity of activities in Victoria Falls, including a cultural festival at Mpisi village and a closing ceremony featuring Oliver Mtukudzi and other artists. One delegate commented “ very little beats the warm Zimbabwean hospitality; I will be back.”
SUNSET BRIDGE RUN: The most spectacular sunset in Africa. Includes gourmet canapés, champagne & drinks.
MOONLIGHT DINNER RUN: An unforgettable dining experience. Includes a 3 course dinner & all drinks. ZAMBEZI LAGER PARTY EXPRESS: A party like no other. WEDDINGS: The most romantic setting in Africa awaits… THE VICTORIA FALLS TRAM: Bridge Runs, transfers to Zambia,
transfers to game reserves & all other Vic Falls activities.
Contact us for reservations, full schedules or more info about the Zambezi Lager Party Express, corporate events or advertising & film opportunities.
w w w.stea mtra in co m pa ny.co m info @stea mtra in co m pa ny.co m
Booking office: +263 13 42912
zambezi victoria falls
12 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
WEDDINGS
Victoria Falls – the perfect wedding destination At first glance the idea of a destination wedding would strike most as rather overambitious. By Humphrey Zinyuke
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specially if one is not exactly in the same income bracket as Kate Middleton. For the record, a destination wedding is one of those you have at a fancy, out of town resort such as the Vic Falls, or on the crystalline sands of Mauritius. If you still have no clue what on earth I’m blubbering about, allow me to recommend the rom-com License to Wed, starring the ubiquitous Mandy Moore, and Robin Williams as the nutty Reverend. Long story short, the flick climaxes at a divine wedding on a beach in tropical Jamaica. No stately cathedral, just palm trees, a blue Atlantic horizon, and a gentle beach-side breeze. Cost wise, there is a destination wedding to suit the ‘average middle class pocket’. By average I mean those that aren’t intimidated by the price of a business class ticket. Allow me to pinpoint some pros of a destination wedding.
Minimal guest list – It is unlikely that your long estranged aunt from heavenknows-where will pop up unannounced. However, Victoria Falls as a destination offers excellent airline connectivity with the rest of the world and accommodation choices for every budget, so beware, she might!
Victoria Falls as a destination offers excellent airline connectivity with the rest of the world and accommodation choices for every budget, so beware, she might!
Maids far from Manhattan – With a little money to burn you can cast most logistical burdens on a wedding planner from your chosen resort, whilst you put your feet up and sample their Sauvignon Blanc. After the feast, the dancing, and the tequilas, you need not worry about cleaning up or returning rentals. The resort staff is at your service.
guarantee that what’s ruling the roost in your guests’ biochemistry are endorphins and for those adrenalin junkies Victoria Falls can accommodate the adrenalin rush too!
Three venues in one – To go the destination wedding way implies one venue for the ceremony, reception and honeymoon. Victoria Falls can offer this option and the traditional three venues, all of which can be special and unique.
Explore these local options; Bumi Hills, The Zambezi Trader House Boat (Kariba), and of course there is plenty of choice in Victoria Falls.
Everybody is free to feel good – Having a wedding in an exotic paradisiacal environment is an almost sure way to
You’re the boss – A destination wedding almost completely guarantees that your ‘overbearing’ kith and kin are kept at bay.
Private Photography / Videography services Tom Varley will take high quality Pictures / Video of your Experience in Africa
We offer a personal service by professional photographers. We can join your day trip in Chobe, trip to Victoria Falls, or anything else you’d like to keep a memory of. Tom Varley, a camera man and a photographer, was raised in the Zimbabwean bush. His love for the wildlife and the area is reflecting in his work and led him to publish a coffee table book about Victoria Falls.
Cell: +263 712 616 874 Tel: + 263 13 406 79 Email: tomvarley@me.com www.vicfallsproductions.com
The General Manager of Ilala Lodge, Mr Roddy Meiring and his fiancé Camilla, Executive Chef for Ilala lodge made the most of the Victoria Falls as a wedding destination.
Wedding Service: The front lawns of The Victoria Falls Hotel, overlooking the gorge and bridge. After drinks/champagne and sushi served as the sun set behind the hotel.
Reception: A 45 minute journey on the Victoria Falls Steam Train into the bush (The Jafuta Siding). At the siding guests were welcomed to a tent made entirely out of fairy lights. It
“We chose Vic Falls as a our destination wedding, not only because we live and work here, but also because people were coming from all around the world; this way families and our friends could make a holiday out of it; plus for most of my old school friends it was the first time they had been back to Zimbabwe in over 10 years. The whole event was a huge success; it did not follow the usual proceedings of a wedding, and gave all our guests a fantastic experience at the same time” said Roddy Meiring, GM Ilala Lodge.
In three short months! By Frances Jackson
Zambezi Traveller interviews two key people in this productive community project Andy Kockott, Director Conservation Science Africa, and Nelson Sibanda, Estate Supervisor for The Victoria Falls Hotel, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.
Victoria Falls Productions
Music : Local talent - DJ Francis. By all accounts the party did not take long to start!
Conservation
In three short months Victoria Falls Hotel’s eco initiative has taken off in a way that even the experts are surprised.
Tom Varley in the wild documenting meercats
was a cocktail party with canapés being served and an open bar.
ZT : Andy three short months ago when I visited this project we were looking at four modules in your eco-composting programmeme. How many modules are there now? Andy : We now have 209 units. This team that the Victoria Falls Hotel has brought together are going for it. The Victoria Falls Green fund also assists this project by giving project trainees remuneration. ZT : When we spoke last, the
planting programmeme was scheduled for the rainy season – I am seeing beautiful vegetables growing now. Andy : Yes, we started this project on the 8th March – and by the 1st of April butternut plants were growing in the first conservation tillage plot. Now we have 19 plots on the go, with a variety of vegetables and as we speak more is happening. This team is so dedicated they have even worked out a split shift to protect the crops from wildlife and the hotel is assisting with getter water to the plots. ZT : Nelson I understand that you are the driving force behind this, how do you feel about this project. Nelson : This project brought to us by Conservation Science Africa is productive. It reaches into the community, it teaches people. We already have 6 of our trainees moving into the community to teach the skills learnt here. We are helping staff from AIDS programmemes, handicapped children’s
Andy Kockott and Nelson Sibanda
associations, old people’s homes and the general community. Trainees have come from out of town, Jambezi and Dete. And of course the produce will be very good for the hotel. ZT: This training programmeme is on-going? Nelson : Yes, but in the near future it will be more than training as this particular project grows we will also be supplying the community with seedlings, cuttings and eco compost for their crops.
ZT: I believe you personally are assisting the community around your own home? Nelson : Yes I have bought a
water tank, and am working on
PHOTO: Conservation Science Africa
getting some polypipe and I want to bring together a group of young men in my neighbourhood and teach them about the worm beds, they can use this for fishing and for growing food. As I stood in amongst neatly laid out conservation tillage plots, with the 200 odd eco-composting worm beds behind me, I too felt excited about this project that brings so many aspects together; recycling of hotel waste, good agricultural practices, education, caring for your community and organic produce for a 5 star hotel. Really a win, win situation for all.
zambezi victoria falls
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 13
MUSIC
Local band shines at world event By ZT correspondent
L
ocal band The Chicken Bus shines at the 37th Annual ATA World Congress closing ceremony in Victoria Falls. Closing ceremonies for the prestigious ATA World Congress were held at the Elephant Hills Hotel, Victoria Falls in May. The main feature of the night was singer Oliver Mtukudzi, but a local band called The Chicken Bus, formed and based in Victoria Falls, was invited to open.
We loved performing and after the event, when people approached us and spoke to us, they could not believe that we were a local band from Victoria Falls. “We were all extremely nervous, but honoured,” said band leader ‘Nash’ Maoneni. “We were supplied with great equipment; all we had to do was bring ourselves and our guitars. Everything was well organized and this calmed our nerves. We loved performing and after the event, when people approached us and spoke to us, they could not believe that we were a local band from Victoria Falls. We are so stoked!”
A ‘chicken bus’ is the main means of public transport in most of the third world and is usually a very colorful, vibrant and energetic affair with people from all walks of life meeting onboard. Filled to the brim with not only people and luggage but small livestock as well, the buses have the reputation for not leaving anyone behind and will stop almost anywhere to drop off or pick up a stranded traveller, for a fee that’s usually next to nothing.
Local band Chicken Bus on stage
The Chicken Bus band draws its name, vision and inspiration from this transport and strives to
manifest its energetic rhythms and afro-fusion beats. Nash and his band members are passionate about conservation and send this message through their music; they understand the pivotal role which nature plays in Victoria Falls through tourism. The band’s favourite quote is: “We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors; but we borrow it
AWARDS
ZOAP Restaurant Of The Year Winners
photo Roddy Meiring
We are very proud to announce that the Palm Restaurant at Ilala Lodge has been awarded Restaurant of the Year for 2011 in Zimbabwe for the deluxe category - a great achievement. The restaurant was awarded the honour recently at the ZOAP (Zimbabwe on a Plate) Awards held in Harare.
Executive Chef Camilla Meiring and the Ilala staff
from our children.” They want to make a difference through their music, educating and creating awareness on topics such as poaching, deforestation and climate change. The band, young as it is, has great plans for the future and hope to take their music outside of Zimbabwe on a European tour.
An ecstatic Roddy Meiring, the Hotel’s General Manager commented “I am very proud of all the skilled and dedicated staff that we are lucky to have with us. Everyone has been working hard at raising our standards and this award is validation of our efforts. A huge achievement for all ”
VICTORIA FALLS
destination management solutions
Over the past 30 years, Shearwater Adventures has evolved from an adventure activity company into a fully fledged ground handling and destination management company. Shearwater Transfers & Tours offers; • Airport and other transfers in Victoria Falls, Livingstone and Kasane. • Ground handling and DMC services for FIT clients, series tours and corporate groups. • A complete range of local tours. • Restaurants at the Rainforest and at the Victoria Falls Bridge. • A vibrant team of over 150 staff at your service.
Shearwater is unique in that it owns and operates the majority of activities available in Victoria Falls, including; • Helicopter flights over the falls. • Cruises on the Zambezi River. • Bridge Activities - bungee, swing, slide and Historic Bridge Tours. • Rafting, on the mighty Zambezi. • Safari activities at an exclusive Big 5 game reserve including elephant back safaris, game drives and bush dinners. Shearwater is ideally placed to ensure smooth ground handling co-ordination, best value packages and creative itineraries for any visit to Victoria Falls.
Tel: +263 (0)13 44471-3, Fax: +263 (0)13 44341 Cell: +263 (0) 773 461 716, (0) 712 613 627, (0) 772 405 340 Skype: shearwater.reservations Email: reservations@shearwatervf.com;
www.shearwatervictoriafalls.com
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Shearwater Introduces:
The LAND OF THE
GIANTS Safari
THIS ELEPHANT AND RHINO COMBO ACTIVITY RETAILS AT JUST $150pp RACK UNTIL DEC 2012
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Shearwater is offering a rare opportunity to combine encounters with two of the behemoths of the African bush in one discounted product. Get “up close and personal” with the genteel African Elephant and the highly endangered Black Rhino in their natural habitat on the Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve on either a morning or afternoon activity. The “LAND OF THE GIANTS” Safari combines an Elephant-Back Safari with a Big Five Game Drive with the emphasis on tracking the rare Black Rhino which are part of the Reserve’s Endangered Species Breeding Programme thus saving US$70.
zambezi victoria falls
14 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
ADVENTURE
Round the world – on a bike Zimbabwe, Malawi and Mozambique. He met numerous travellers, including those who relied on the bicycle to cover very long distances. Later, he travelled round Turkey, meeting more cycling adventurers.
Peter Gostelow
By Rosie Mitchell
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eter Gostelow has bicycled through 30 countries across Asia and Europe, starting in Japan and ending up home in the UK. More recently, he’s travelled from England via Spain and Morocco to Zimbabwe. At 33, Peter Gostelow has travelled more than most dream of in a lifetime. He’s done all of this, quite incredibly – on a bicycle! So far, he’s spent 5 ½ years in the saddle, travelling a phenomenal 78 000 kms. He’s entirely self-financing.
So far, he’s spent 5 ½ years in the saddle, travelling 78 000 km. Bar sponsored kit and equipment, he’s done all this on a carefully planned shoestring, eking out savings accumulated as a student, doing part time jobs, and later, from teaching English as a foreign language in Japan and elsewhere, and giving inspirational talks, for which he sometimes gets a fee. After graduation in 2000, Peter spent six months travelling solo round Zambia,
“Manufacturers & Suppliers of Industrial Catering Equipment, Refrigeration & Extraction”
TableTops Furniture
After working in temp jobs, he enrolled for the Teaching English as a Foreign Language course in Seville, Spain, and by 2003, headed for Japan on the Japanese Exchange Teaching programme. He began researching long distance trips by other intrepid explorers on bikes, and after three
years accumulated enough money to fund his first megaadventure – cycling home to the UK through 30 countries, which included South Korea, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Tibet, Nepal, India, Pakistan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran, Turkey, Syria, Jordan, Egypt, Libya and Tunisia! Three years and 50 000 kms later, he arrived home! In all that time, bar the odd, inevitable minor incident of theft, he encountered nothing but kindness and hospitality,
stayed healthy and saw and experienced so much he plans to capture it all in a book once his African adventure is finished. His Africa tour is also fundraising for the Against Malaria Foundation; so far he’s raised, directly and indirectly, about $25 000. Gostelow is no egotist; he’s very unassuming, despite the fearless spirit and determination which has harnessed body power alone to travel extraordinary distances over every kind of terrain in every kind of weather. He has rarely felt lonely. He’s careful of his
health, not paranoid, and has escaped malaria and other serious diseases. He had minor surgery in Harare, but was soon off to Bulawayo, Hwange, and Victoria Falls where ZT caught up with him. He has enjoyed generous hospitality from contacts of all kinds as well as perfect strangers. It has proved more costly to travel through sub Saharan Africa than Asia and Europe, where he lived on $10 a day. He expects to be in his final destination of Cape Town in June, and then he’ll fly home. Time to write that book and share his amazing experiences with others, before planning the next adventure! Visit www.gostelow.crazyguyonabike.com; thebigafricacycle.com.
ADVENTURE
Life after bungee A first-time jumper recounts the many, mixed emotions of taking the fall. By Holly Davis
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he idea of f linging myself off a bridge and falling 111 metres with nothing but a piece of elastic tied around my feet had seemed like a much better idea when I was saying “I’ll do it tomorrow.” I recall my dad asking me how the butterf lies were. I had no butterflies - only writhing snakes. The Zambezi churned beneath me, its rapids snapping their hungry jaws. On either side of the great river rose immensely sheer walls that formed the sides of the gorge, with ragged rocks lying at the foot. I looked down wishing that the solid ground beneath my feet would swallow me up before the angry river did. “Bend your knees. Keep your arms straight. Don’t jump, rather dive.” Somehow my feet found their own way to the edge of the bridge.
Bungee jumping off the bridge
My heart was in my throat but all I could hear was it thudding in my ears. My toes stuck out reluctantly over the edge that gave way to nothingness. As if in a distant dream, I heard someone shouting, “Five! Four! Three! Two! One! BUNGEE!”
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
At that moment, my knees gave way and I flopped rather than flew off the bridge. I gasped at the immense speed of air passing me by, howling warnings in my ears. I shut my eyes tightly. This was it; at any moment I would hit the water.
A wave of monumental relief flooded through my body as I found myself soaring back up the way I had come, my fists clasped in victory. As the adrenalin pulsed through my veins, the scenery of deadly cliffs and raging rapids transformed into one of vibrant colour and energy. My stiff body relaxed and a smile of pure bliss emerged on my face. I sailed up and down, riding the wind’s back. I felt free. I felt invincible. I felt alive. I was just as unwilling for the sensation to end as I had been for it to begin. One of the crew was being lowered down on a rope to rescue me. He was singing, “What a wonderful world!” and I sang along. I was turned the right way up again and clipped to his harness as we were both pulled up towards the bridge. Then I was back on solid ground again.There was life after Bungee after all. I felt like I had accomplished the ultimate feat as I walked in victory back towards my dad and friends. It was, without a doubt, the most incredible experience of my life and one I will treasure forever.
zambezi victoria falls
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 15
CULTURE
Rare costume restored for display A rare ceremonial costume is restored and returned to pride of place in a Victoria Falls cultural museum. By Christie Brookstein
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hile cataloguing a nd desc r ibing displays for the opening of the Jafuta Heritage Centre at Elephant’s Walk, Victoria Falls, owner Gail van Jaarsveldt and archivist Thelma Newmarch realised that an original Makishi costume that had previously been on display had vanished. It was found being used as a scarecrow, as the costume had fallen apart in many places and it scarcely resembled its former self. Gift Sithole took on the task of restoring the costume and constructing a frame to display it, and made many discoveries along the way. Locally, versions of Makishi dances are seen every night at the Victoria Falls Hotel, but none of us had realised the deep spiritual significance and fascinating history behind
have been obtained by staining the bark weave with blood, whilst black was created from charcoal from the blacksmith’s fire, with the white being the natural colour of the muzawu tree bark.
each mask and costume. Makishi represent spirits of the ancestors during young boys’ circumcision and initiation rites. It is taboo to ask who is wearing each costume, with the dancers dressing in great secrecy and ritual. Sithole was able to contact the leader of the local troupe, who has asked for his name not to be mentioned, to assist in restoring the costume correctly. He was amazed when he first saw the remnants, and was able to tell us that this was the costume and mask of the spirit known as Mwanaphalo. This Makishi is rarely seen, as he does not take part in the traditional parades and dances of the Mize ceremonies, so it was very unusual for a costume to be seen in public. Instead, Mwanaphalo has the role of keeping the boys safe within the initiation camp. He is a fierce spirit that carries sticks and spears to
Once restored, the costume was to be displayed with a stick and a spear used to keep away bad spirits and the dance leader brought a traditional Makishi spear for the museum to use.
ward off evil spirits, shown by the red eyes in the mask. During the boys’ separation from their families, Mwanaphalo will occasionally visit their home villages and dance in the houses of the boys taken by the Makishi for their initiation. He does a short energetic dance, bouncing on one stilt. If he does not return to a boy’s house, it is seen as a sign that
A small but dedicated team of leather craftsmen who provide a timeless leather product designed to last the ages. We strive to create unique hand-crafted, durable and elegant, genuine leather products. crocodile, elephant and hippo leather
Elephants Walk Shopping Village, or the African Renaissance shop in the Victoria Falls Hotel
PHOTO:ELEPHANT’S WALK
Makishi and Jafuta Cultural Centre
crocoafrique@yoafrica.com
something is wrong or that the boy has done poorly at the camp. Our costume was in several pieces and the mask missing its fierce red eyes. The dance leader painstakingly reconstructed the costume using the traditional knotting or crocheting style unique to the Makishi. This process he kept a secret from us all, work-
ing in seclusion. The mask he restored with red cloth over the eyes and he remade gloves to cover the hands. He explained that as costumes wear out, they are repaired and added to, so the addition of the more modern materials was acceptable. He also explained how in the past the colour red would
To see this beautiful and intriguing piece literally come back to life has been a most rewarding process for all involved; thanks to Sithole’s passion for authenticity that we discovered its background. The restored costume and mask are now on display, along with a Chikuza walking stick and a choir master or master of ceremonies mask. Entrance to the centre is free and it has been wonderful that members of the Luvale tribe are coming just to see this rare costume.
zambezi victoria falls
Conservation
Preditors responsible for livestock loss
Human Predator Conflict Project Throughout the year over 190 villages have been interviewed to determine the level of ver the last year the conflict villages have with wildlife.
By Jessica Dawson
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W i ld Hor iz ons Wildlife Trust has been conducting a human wildlife conf lict project in the Hwange Rura l district communal lands bordering Victoria Falls. Throughout the year over 190 villages have been interviewed to determine the level of conf lict villages have with wildlife. The questionnaire will also ascertain what, if any, mitigation efforts are employed to try and deter wildlife from either crop raiding or predation of livestock.
This survey follows on from similar surveys undertaken by Hwange Lion Research, in the Hwange area. In addition to the survey, a predator conf lict hotline was established in which people were able to phone and report any incidents. W H W T then deployed a team to independently investigate each incident. In 2011, there were over 300 predator conflict incidents reported. A majority of the livestock killed were cattle,
Zambezi Traveller
Livestock species lost to predation
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Goats & Sheep
1%
10% Hyena
followed thereaf ter by donkeys. The main predator species which was independently assessed to be responsible for the incidents was lion followed by hyena. In one incident a single lioness was responsible for killing more than 15 livestock in one week. The total quantitative value of livestock losses due to predation amounts to more than $91,000 for 2011. For people living in rural communal lands this translates to a huge loss economically.
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ILLUSTRATION: Baynham Goredema
16 Travellers Friend
Donkeys
23%
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Cattle
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66%
WHWT aims to work with local communities to evaluate potential solutions to decreasing livestock losses and preserving wildlife populations. WHWT hopes to be able to continue the survey in the communal lands as well as to maintain the conflict hotline
and conflict incident team. Additionally WHWT hopes to deploy some satellite collars onto lions in the region. This will allow for spatial analysis of the movements of the cats and to help in identifying corridors, areas between mixed land use types for conservation efforts. Additional analysis of all of the data gathered from
both the oral survey and the conflict reports will be completed in conjunction with Oxford WILDCRU, Hwange Lion Research project. WHWT would like to thank Safari Club International Foundation (SCIF) for the grant funding which sponsored this project.
SPORT
Ready to run a marathon? By Debbie Addison
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an you run a marathon? Only 42.2 km! If that’s a bit daunting, how about a half marathon? We even have a fun run (Now, that’s more like it…), great for the entire family, especially the youngsters.
The 6th Victoria Falls Marathon is on Sunday 28 August, so you have three months to set your training goals. We believe it’s one of the most attractive routes in Africa, heading over the Victoria Falls bridge and
back, then through Zambezi National Park, where there is a fair chance of seeing some wildlife along the way, through the local residential areas and finishing at the Primary School on the Kazangula Road.
water stations and an accurately measured distance so it can be used as a qualifier for ultra-marathons. Econet Wireless is the event’s main sponsor and we have great prize money for the victorious. Other corporates and hotels generously sponsor the half marathon and fun run events – the sponsored water stations compete for the liveliest and noisiest tables on the route.
After the event there will be a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River, followed by an afterparty on the banks of the river. You won’t get bored easily in this vibrant town, so make sure you add on a few extra days for other attractions and activities; the marathon is a good excuse to be here.
Serious athletes running the Victoria Falls marathon
During the 2011 event, we donated 100 wheelchairs to the local disabled communities. We had more than 1 000 entries last year, and with an
even bigger event in 2012, we will be poised to give something back once again. Enter on line, and check out the travel packages too.
Photo : Wildfrontiers
The sixth Victoria Falls Marathon is on Sunday 28 August, and also includes a half marathon and fun run through this spectacular World Heritage Site.
Visit www.vicfallsmarathon.com Visit www.vicfallsmarathon.com
Whilst this race appeals to social runners, it also attracts some top athletes from South Africa, Zambia, Zimbabwe, and even as far as Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda. The race is IAAF measured – which means it’s a world class event – with properly managed
One stop ground handling and activity provider Where three countries meet on the banks of the Zambezi
Victoria Falls | Livingstone | Chobe Tours, transfers and activities
White water rafting | Canoeing | Hirewire | Elephant back safaris | Lion encounters | Helicopter flips.
Accommodation Elephant Camp - Luxury accommodation overlooking the gorge. Imbabala Safari Lodge - Comfortable accommodation, good fishing, great game viewing on the banks of the Zambezi. Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571, 42013, 44426 or 44282 Cell: +263 (0) 712 213 721 or + 263 (0) 772 209 118 Email: info@wilhorizons.co.zw or threeten@wildhorizons.co.za
www.wildhorizons.co.za
zambezi victoria falls
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 17
CHARITY
Indaba parties aid Zambezi Conservation By ZT correspondent
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They were “dancing on the ceiling” to the rousing song by Lionel Richie at the African Travel & Tourism Association’s ‘Zaney ZimZam’ networking party at Coastlands on the Ridge, and their raffle was a successful fundraiser for VFAPU .
Photo : SATIB Trust
he f lag f lew high for Zambezi conservation at Indaba 2012, with two fundraisers benefitting the Hwange Lion Research Project and Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit. Indaba is the premier travel trade show in the region, held in Durban in May every year.
From left to Right : Keith Vincent (Wilderness Safaris), Eric Goldblum (Canvas & Tent), Charles Brightman (VFAPU), Brian Courtenay (SATIB Trust), Jane Hunt and Brent Stapelkamp (Hwange Lion Research).
Eagerly supported by 226 ATTA members and their guests, ATTA chief executive Nigel Vere said ‘ZimZam’ saw the largest
number at any of the various ATTA functions during what was a triumphant Indaba for Zimbabwe.
Africa Albida Tourism, whose flagship is Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, was one of four sponsors for the night, with
African Bush Camps, Sanctuary Retreats and Chiawa Camp/Old Mondoro. Painted Wolf Wines sponsored all wine for the revelry.
Brian Courtenay, SATIB
AAT, in conjunction with The Amalinda Collection, sponsored one of the raffle prizes - a seven-night package including three nights at luxury Victoria Falls Safari Club due to open in September 2012 and two nights at Camp Amalinda in the Matobo Hills, Bulawayo.
tor Donald Greig donated
ATTA’s bash was closely followed by a fund raising cocktail party organised by
the Landrover, the SATIB
TRUST in aid of VFAPU and Wildcru’s Hwange Lion Research project. Wildlife artist Larry Norton and sculpworks for the cause these were purchased after a hotly contested auction by Keith Vincent, Wilderness Safaris and Eric Goldblum, Canvas and Tent. The Hwange Lion Research also were officially handed over the keys to award for their contribution to conservation.
CHARITY
Steam train revelry PHOTOS: STEAM TRAIN CO.
rain had given way to one of the best sunsets in months. From the bridge with Victoria Falls in view, the spectacular scene set the tone for the rest of the evening.
Charles Brightman aboard the Steam Train
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journey aboard a steam train. With the generous support of the Vic Falls Steam Train Co, the event was described as the event of the year and the local community dug deep and partied hard.
VFAPU launched its new annual fundraiser in spectacular style with an evening
More than 150 people braved the pouring rain to join the event at the station but by the time the train had steamed down to the bridge,
By ZT Correspondent
he Victoria Falls community turned out in style for a gala fund raiser – on a steam train – in aid of Victoria Falls Anti Poaching Unit.
Soon the train had gathered a full head of steam and was thundering out of town with the party in full swing. With bars at each end of the train and full waiter service, everyone settled in for a good time.
Liquorama had organized all the drinks and donated the wines. Endless trays of snacks, provided by the leading hotels of the town, swept up and down the train. An entire carriage was dedicated as a dance floor complete with disco provided by DJ Francis.
the bush. With the VFAPU scouts greeting everyone, guests disembarked to enjoy the atmosphere. Charles Brightman and Tonya Meikle gave a brief talk on the work of VFAPU, and thanked everyone who had made the event possible.
Arriving at Jafuta Siding, the guests were welcomed by a huge bonfire and the Chicken Bus band set up in
With the local band The Chicken Bus providing entertainment, the train hissing patiently in the half light, the
bonfire, and the good company, it all added up to a night to remember. Eventually everyone got back on the train and we steamed into town. The dance floor was packed and the entire train was bouncing up and down to the beat! The train pulled into the station at about midnight to disgorge its exhausted revelers.
Victoria ictoria Falls, alls, Zimbabwe imbabwe Contact us for your wildlife experience... Tel/fax: 013 45821 Cell: 0712 209 144 Email: cat@yoafrica.com
Game Drives Bird Watching safaris Walking Safaris Special interest Safaris & more...
zambezi victoria falls
18 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
WILDLIFE
The best snake is not a dead snake! Most snakes are relatively slow moving and do not chase people and bite them, as some of us believe.
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nakes play the villain in many stories and in some their powers are so distorted and exaggerated that it is difficult to convince people that snakes are actually timid creatures whose primary aim is to catch their prey in order to survive, and not to hurt humans. Our messy activities, such as rubbish dumping and storing food in unsealed containers, attract the rodents and other creatures that snakes eat. Snakes do us a great service by keeping the number of rats and mice down and therefore controlling deadly diseases, such as the bubonic plague, that kill thousands of people – many more than snakes do. Snakes can be dangerous to humans because some of them inject venom when they bite. This is to immobilize their prey and help with the digestion process as they cannot chew their food. Snakes such as the Mamba have an extremely toxic venom because
George and Stuart
their prey are fast moving animals, such as rats and squirrels, which have to be killed quickly before they can get away. Most snakes are relatively slow moving and do not chase people and bite them, as some of us believe. What often happens is that they get cornered when trying to get away from us and then try and make an escape through our legs. If we approach them too closely they may attempt to bite because that is their only means of defending themselves. However, snakes usually only bite when provoked, molested or hurt. Many thousands more
snakes are killed by people than we are by them. There are only about ten snakes in the Victoria Falls area that can be deemed to be dangerous to people. These are the Black Mamba, the Snouted or Egyptian Cobra, the Mozambique Spitting Cobra, the Puff Adder, the Snouted Night Adder, the Boomslang, the Vine Snake, the Shield Snake, Bibrons Burrowing Adder and the Half-Banded Garter Snake. The Black Mamba spreads a small hood, raises its body high and will open its large
WHOLESALE AT VICTORIA FALLS
mouth to show a black interior. Cobras will rear up and display the well-known hood. The Boomslangs and Vine snakes will inflate their bodies to make themselves look bigger and sway from side to side. Adders will coil up and make a loud hissing noise to warn you of their presence. Other common species of snake mimic these characteristics as a defensive mechanism and sadly often get killed because we cannot identify them correctly.
Tel: (013) 44870 / 1 Fax: (013) 44871 Mobile: 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 - Mr Neil Norman Email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
be careful when picking up rocks or building rubble, and do not put your hand down holes or pipes until you are sure they are clear of any creatures. The experts in Victoria Falls will catch snakes that are found on your property and release them away from human habitation. They are experienced, have the correct equipment and can identify the snakes properly. The best person is George Van Wyk (0772 942 859). He catches hundreds of snakes every year and deserves recognition for the great job he does in preserving these important reptiles. I can also help if George is not available (0772 302 747). Remember - the best snake is NOT a dead snake!
Snakes are most active in the rainy season. They come out after the rain and in the cool evenings to catch their favourite prey. They also bask in the early morning sunshine because they do not like the excessive heat of mid-day. Cobras are particularly fond of the frogs and toads that are seen with the rains. Wear shoes when walking around at night, avoid sitting on termite mounds which are the favoured homes of Mambas and Cobras,
WILDLIFE
necrosis, which is common with bites from this snake when inflicted on a finger or hand; probably because the venom was able to spread through a larger area.
The snake handler’s story By George van Wyk
No fatalities have been recorded from Stiletto Snake bites – however they are ver y painful, and if inflicted upon a child will result in a very unhappy little person! Fortunately they are a shy and secretive species, and rarely encountered.
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n u nu s u a l w e t season this year resulted in some unusual snake activity – and a misjudgement brought a great deal of discomfort to our intrepid expert. As the weather starts to cool, snakes will become less and less active as they go into a period of torpor, or sluggish inactivity. They depend on external conditions to regulate their body temperatures, and live off stored body fat during the winter months. It is always interesting to reflect back on what species have been more commonly encountered. We have had a somewhat unusual rainy season; a short, very wet period produced more Stiletto Snakes (Actractaspis bibronii) than I have encountered in any season before.
Industrial Sites, Victoria Falls, opposite Marange Motors
The attractive and harmless Bush Snake acts like a Boomslang, the Herald Snake strikes out like an Adder, and the Olive Grass Snake is often confused with the Black Mamba.
photo stuart danks
By Stuart Danks
George catching a cobra
‘Black Mamba,’ and was led to a large rubber sheet at the back of the Lodge. Upon lifting it, I encountered a small, glossy black snake, which I mistook for one of the Purple Glossed Snakes.
I also encountered an unusually large number of our beautiful Tiger Snakes (Teloscopus semiannulatus); conversely, probably fewer Puff Adders (Bitis arietans) this season. Waterlogged ground would explain Stiletto Snakes coming to the surface, as they are usually a burrowing species.
I lifted the snake in my left hand for closer examination, in response to which the snake swung around and stabbed a fang into my forearm! Initial symptoms were limited to mild local pain and swelling – however this was to change fairly rapidly. By that evening my entire left arm and hand were very swollen and extremely painful.
Whilst on the subject of Stiletto Snakes, they are an easy species to confuse with other, non venomous snakes; however, as I discovered, this is a painful mistake to make! I had been called out to Drifters Lodge for a suspected
I noticed mild neurotoxic symptoms within the first 12 to 18 hours as well, with pain and difficulty in swallowing. These subsided by the second day, but it took four to five days for the swelling and pain to completely disappear. Fortunately I suffered no tissue
Humans are not prey to snakes. Bites are only ever inflicted in self defence. They play a vital role in our natural heritage, occupying their own special niche – and deserve our protection just as much as any other wildlife. Even though we are likely to encounter snakes less frequently over the next several months, do bear in mind that they are around, and continue to practice good sense when encountering them. Snakes are best left alone – give them their space and they will leave you alone. There are people in the Victoria Falls community who are able to assist with capturing and safe translocation of snakes, and it is useful to have their numbers handy – stored in your cell phone or written down somewhere. If you encounter a snake, do not panic – try to have someone keep an eye on it whilst you call one of us. We all have a responsibility to keep our snakes alive! George van Wyk: 0772 942 859, (013) 44614. Stuart Danks: 0772 302 747, (013) 41757
zambezi victoria falls
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 19
ART & CRAFTS
Q&A: Zimbabwe Stone Sculpture
We answer some of the commonest questions about Zimbabwe stone sculpture – where did it start; who are its leading representatives.
In the early 1980s, a younger breed of sculptors started producing work that was more personal, less influenced by their culture and more by the modern world. granite and lipidolite. Verdite is usually a green or brown, semiprecious stone which is very hard and therefore difficult to carve. Lipidolite, found in granite areas, is a purple colour and, like granite, is extremely hard and requires special tungsten hand tools to carve it. Soapstone, a soft, chalky stone is the medium used most often by curio carvers. Where is the stone mined, and how?
Time to be truthful - Bernard Matamera
By Stuart Danks
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hat is the history of this art form? Although beautiful stone Zimbabwe birds were created at Great Zimbabwe in the fifteenth century, contemporary Zimbabwe stone sculpture has its roots in the 1950’s when Frank McEwan, the first Director of the Zimbabwe National Gallery, started an art workshop.
photo Stuart Danks
metamorphic rock that exists in many colours. The very hard, black form of serpentine is often referred to as spring stone. Other stones are verdite,
The stone is mined in open cast mines. The main sources are the Great Dyke that runs through the centre of Zimbabwe, and numerous granite areas. An expert can tell where the stone comes from by looking at its colour and texture.
Initially, the focus was on painting and McEwan was impressed by the uninhibited work produced by the artists. He encouraged them to try sculpting with stone, and inspired them to express themselves, while teaching them the value of artistic integrity. The results were astounding and instantly drew international attention. Sculptors such as Takawira, Munyaradzi, Mukomberanwa and Mariga earned acclaim from art critics around the world through exhibitions in Africa, Europe and America. A wonderful new culture of modern sculpture was born. What kind of stone is used? The stone used most often by the artists we represent is serpentine. This is a hard
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HASLEMERE LANE, UMWINSIDALE, HARARE TEL: 0772 165 555/6 MOB: 0772 414 414 WWW.PATRICKMAVROS.COM HARARE@PATRICKMAVROS.COM
What is the difference between a curio and a piece of art? The main difference is that curios are not original; many carvings of the same theme are repeated again and again. Curios are often made from poorer quality stone such as soapstone, as it is easier to work, but which damages easily and degenerates quickly, due to its soft, porous nature.
Who are the most well known artists? The first generation artists will have had the most exposure, both locally and internationally, and include artists such as Nicholas Mukomberanwa, Henry Munyaradzi, John, Bernard and Lazarus Takawira and Joram Mariga.
Stone Dynamics promoted many of the second generation artists, who have now become the new masters, and include sculptors such as Richard Mteki, Dominic Benhura, John Gutsa, Ernest Chiwaridzo, Gladman Zinyeka, Zachariah Njobo, and Fredy Mariga.
What is meant by ‘first, second and third generation’ artists? The first few decades were dominated by the ‘pioneer’ sculptors whose work is more established in their tribal African cultural values. They are referred to as the first generation. In the early 1980s, a younger breed of sculptors started producing work that was more personal, less influenced by their culture and more by the modern world. They were called the second generation. In the late 1990’s, another set of young artists emerged - the third generation.
“I had my most intense aesthetic experience when I was suddenly exposed to the sublime beauty of the sculpture executed by African artists.” - Pablo Piccasso PERMANENT EXHIBITION Victoria Falls Hotel, Zimbabwe Tel: +263 13 - 41757 Email: artafrica@bluewin.ch www.stonedynamicsgallery.co.zw
zambezi victoria falls
20 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Advertise in the Victoria Falls Classifieds Mel Hudson hudsons@yoafrica.com +263 775 297519 Activities
Artists & Art Galleries
Cell Phones - brand new, guaranteed for one year: Nokia, Samsung and Motorolla. Genuine handsets at the officially appointed distributor for Victoria Falls at distributor prices. Contact Tradepower, Victoria Falls. Tel: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712587123/0774022312 Email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Convenience Store Crocodile Farm -Stop in and see our range of genuine crocodile leather products! OR just pop down and visit the Crocodile Farm at the same premises. Entrance fee Adult $5-00 – Child $2-00. Contact Margie or Edson, Tel 013 43576, Cell 0712 213 531. 325 Parkway Drive, Victoria Falls. Email znscroc@africaonline.co.zw. We are open every day of the year.
The Larry Norton Gallery. Original and reproduced fine art wildlife and landscape images available from this renowned artist. Visit this superb gallery in the historical Victoria Falls Hotel. You will find us in the Stables Lounge. Phone: +263 (0) 772 606 233 and +263 (0) 13 40076. Email: info@larrynorton.co.za and website: www.larrynorton.co.za
Sealent Safaris - Specialises in Accomodation, Tours, Chobe Trips, Kariba Ferries, Mana Pools. Office No 16, Sopers Arcade. Tel : 013 40237, 0772 279083. Email : cynthia63us@yahoo.com.
B&B
Shearwater Victoria Falls. Experience the Big 5 on Shearwater’s private game reserve, just 12km from Victoria Falls town and enjoy seeing Africa’s rare black rhino. Contact Shearwater Central Reservations P.O. Box 125, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Tel:+263 (0) 13 44471-3, 42058, 40056-8 Fax:+263 (0) 13 44341 Cell:+263 (0) 712 406 668, +263 (0) 773 461 716 reservations@shearwatervf.com
Lorries B&B, Victoria Falls. Full English Breakfast. Ensuite Rooms. Home cooked dinners. Your home away from home. Phone: +263 (0) 13 42139 or +263 (0) 712 406 584. Email: lorrie@mweb.co.zw. 10% discount on production of this advertisement. Mosi-Ua-Tunya B&B, six en-suite rooms, air conditioned, and additional family accommodation available. Located 603 Mahogany Road. Reservations call: +263 (0) 13 44336, email moslodge@yoafrica.com, cell +263 (0)772 462 837. Tokkie Lodge, your home from home whilst travelling. Contact +263 (0) 43306 or Manache +263 (0) 0712 207396. Email: reservations@tokkielodge.co.zw The Villa Victora. Self catering guest house. Five en suite rooms, home away from home environment. Phone + 263 13 44386, Cell + 263 712 700261, email : villaviczim@gmail.com for further information.
Bakery Requisites The Zambezi Helicopter Company. View the vastness of the Victoria Falls and it’s surrounds the best way! Take a helicopter flip and enjoy the magnificent splendour of the Zambezi River and it’s Falls. Contact The Zambezi Helicopter Company, Box 125, Zimbabwe. Tel +263 (0) 13 43569, cell: +263 (0) 773 080 909, +263 (0) 712 324 422. Tel/fax: +263 13 40059. Email: zhc.reservations@highestec.co.zw. Skype: zambezihelicopters Web site: www.zambezihelicopters.com
Bakeries and Hotels - Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls are the Vic Falls distributors for Bakels Zimbabwe. For bulk cocoa powder, icing sugar, cake mix, almond paste, pettinice, cooking chocolate, sesame seeds, baking powder, greaseproof paper, glace cherries, tincol, bread premix, rollex or masterpuff, please phone Neil Norman on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 to request our speciality bakery representative to call upon you to provide advice and suggestions on new products.
Camping Equipment
Wild Horizons is a “one-stop’ activity provider offering a range of tours and activities including rafting, canoeing, elephant back safaris and high wire activities. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw
Artists & Art Galleries
Catering Services Delicious Indian Cuisine. Seventh Heaven Foods (Pvt) Ltd. 523 Reynard Rd, Victoria Falls. Take-aways, catering for functions. Specialises in snacks and Indian dinners. Call Anju and Barry Nathoo on +263 (0) 13 40527/42348. Cell: +263 (0) 712 212 255/+263 (0) 775 121 406. Email: khemhim@yoafrica.com
TRADITIONAL LUNCHES Traditional authentic lunches and dinners in the heart of the Victoria Falls community. Call Tsitsi on +263 (0) 776 144 080, Flatter on +263 (0) 712 926 678. Email : muposiwa_tsitsi@yahoo.com
Fresh Produce The one and only convenience store in Victoia Falls. Open 7 days a week Monday to Saturday 7am to 11pm and Sundays from 7am till 9pm. We will cater for all your food needs during your stay in Vic Falls. Situated in the centre of town opposite the Rest Camp, Shop 6 Parkway Drive, Victoria Falls. Contact us on (013) 43429.
Hotels & Lodges
Services
Elephant Ca mp. The Elephant Camp is a luxury and intimate lodge under canvas only 10 minutes from Victoria Falls and all it’s attractions and activities, yet secluded in it’s own private game reserve so as to allow close up encounters with wildlife. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw
The Project Management co - Coordinators of design and construction, projects for homes, lodges and hotels. External and interior designs conceptualized. Renovations undertaken. Phone - Sara Norton + 263 772 606233 or +263 13 44074. Email - snorton@yoafrica.com
Fresh fruit and Vegetable stocked daily 283 Holland Road, Industrial Area +263 13 42237/44008/9 +263 772399779 +263773462343
Once a month a number of Victoria Falls residents put together ‘goodie parcels’ with a few luxuries, mostly necessities for elderly people in the community that are struggling to make ends meet. Anyone wishing to contribute to this can email Cathrina Gover: gover@ yoafrica.com and Mel Hudson: hudsons@yoafrica.com
The Victoria Falls Hotel. ***** Situated on a world heritage site, the legendary Victoria Falls Hotel overlooks the magnificent falls. This gracious 1904 hotel is set in lush tropical gardens that recall the romance of days gone by. Contact Sales and Marketing Manager. Email: marketing@ tvfh.africansun.co.zw. Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44751/9
Ice always available at Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls - 7kg bag for $2-20. Tel: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312. Please visit our modern wholesale warehouse, where service to you will be a pleasure.
Laundry Service Horse Safaris
Rotary Club of Victoria Falls meets every Thursday at Ilala Lodge between 1:00pm and 2:00pm. For further information please contact our club president Anne Taggart on +263 (0)772 254552 or Josh Ncube on +263 (0)772 105515 or, our club secretary Babara on +263 (0)773 228084.
In-da-Belly Bar and Cafe. Located within the Victoria Falls Rest Camp on Parkway Drive. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Good food, great value, superb atmosphere. Tel : +263 13 40501/11. Email: indabelly@restcamp.co.zw The Victoria Falls Hotel : Stanley’s Terrace, cosmopolitan lunch The Victoria Falls Hotel: Livingstone Room, fine dining with a 7 course menu. The Victoria Falls Hotel: Jungle Junction, international buffet and African Spectacular show. For bookings, contact +263 (0) 44751/9, email : marketing@tvfh.africansun.co.zw.
Spotless Laundry Services at Victoria Falls Restcamp, Lodge 17. Open daily. Contact +262 (0) 40509-11 or +263 (0)772 347687
Restcamps
Locksmith Victoria Falls Locksmiths - Providers of 24hr key cutting and lock-out services. Tel : Levi on 013 44526, Cell 0778 132 220 or 0712 764 486 Email : locksmithsvf@gmail. com
Rotary Club of Hwange, District 9210, meets every Thursday at the Hwange Colliery Company Little Theatre between 1730 and 1900pm. Please call Mugove Hamadziripi, Club President for further details on 0712 263 931 or 0772 428 806. Email: mhamadziripi@gmail.com
Logistics & Supply
Victoria Falls Tourism Police Unit. A donor funded initiative between private and public sector in conjunction with the Zimbabwe Republic Police to ensure a safe environment for visitors and local residents within the Victoria Falls tourism area. Anyone wishing to assist in sponsoring one or more of the dedicated Tourism Police Officers please contact Kevin Fry +263 (0) 772 872646
Transport and Supply of 30 tonne loads from Johannesburg, Harare, Bulawayo to Victoria Falls, Kasane, Livingstone and Lusaka. Bricks, cement, quarry stone, thatching grass and timber. Contact: +263 772 144996 or +263 9 232376
Fishing & Fisherman
Lamb cuts - “Super” lamb cuts in stock. Contact Tradepower, Victoria Falls. Telephone (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312
Fishermen flystreamers for sale, rods repaired. Call Tim +263 (0) 712 208 374
Restaurants
Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge. Located in the Matetsi Safari Area with 14km of Zambezi river frontage Imbabala is reknowned for it’s game viewing and bird watching Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571,44426. Email: info@ wildhorizons.co.zw. www.wildhorizons.co.za
Ice Sales
Charity Events
Meat Sales
ph: 42847; 0772 313270; 0712 292228
Forklift Forklift to take a weight off your shoulders. Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls has a 3 tonne forklift for hire at an hourly rate. Please phone Neil on (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312. Please visit our modern wholesale warehouse, where service to you will be a privilege.
Victoria Falls Hair Salon - We do all types of hairdo’s, manicures and pedicures. 307 Parkway Drive. Tel + 263 13 40981, Cell + 263 712 716 930
Food Agencies
Hardware Stores
Victoria Foods – Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls is the official distributor for Victoria Foods in the Falls and surrounding area. For quality flour, rice, mealie meal, snacks, salt and sugar beans, please visit our modern warehouse located on Mile Road, opposite Marange Motors. Tel: (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Builders’ Hardware. For all your building material visit Builders’ Hardware, Old PG/Johnson & Fletcher building, Orders done to your specification. Contact Thandi 0772 347687/ Itai 0712 597465
Hairdressing Salon
Hardware Zone, Victoria Falls for all your electrical, plumbing, painting and building requirements. Phone +263 (0) 13 42202, cell +263 (0)773 255 788, 426 Pioneer Road, Industrial Area
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Stone Dynamics Gallery, The Victoria Falls Hotel. Home to Zimbabwe’s world renowned stone sculptures. For further information contact Stuart Danks, director, email: artafrica@bluewin.ch
CADAC “Adventure to Go” & Camping Equipment - Including new stock of Sarfire, Roll-ABout and Outdoor Patio gas heaters available at Tradepower Vicf Falls - Telphone (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312
Cultural Activities
Cellphones
Packaged Snacks Montagu Mixed Nuts & Fruits – Our range of superb nuts, dried fruits and snack mixes are always fresh and available at Tradepower Victoria Falls. 100g and 200g packs. Display stands and in-store advertising available for retail stockists. Call us on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 for our representative to visit you. Trekkers Biltong – Outstanding quality chilli or plain flavoured beef snapsticks in 35g, 75g and 150g and distributed by Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls. Please contact Neil Norman on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 for us to visit your establishment with advice and details of wholesale pricing including stands and in-store advertising which are available to boost your sales.
Pharmacies Victoria Falls Pharmacy shop No.3 Phumula Centre, close to Chicken Inn complex. Tel +263 (0) 13 44403, after hours cell: +263 (0) 712 4051269/+263 (0) 712 405 270.
Repairs and Workshops Amherst Engineering T/A Zambezi Motors - for vehicle repairs and maintenance, situated behind Avis/Total. Burce: +263 712 336 017, Roy: +263 712 747 306, Shayle: +263 772 284 689.
Victoria Falls Restcamp. Situated in the town centre offers affordable, safe accommodation. Includes self catering lodges, chalets, dormitories, semi luxury tents and camping. Along with a tours & internet desk & In-da-Belly Restaurant. Tel: + 263 13 40509 - 11. Email: reservations@ restcamp.co.zw
Specialist Guide Discover Safaris Charles Brightman P O Box CT 544 Victoria Falls Zimbabwe, Tel/Fax + 263 13 45821, Cell + 263 712 209144 or + 263 917 747 426, Skype : charlesbrightman, Specialising in walking safaris, game drives, bird watching trips and tailor made safaris. Finalist in the Safari Awards Category. Best Personal Contibution to Wildlife Conservation, www.safariawards.com/winners11
Swimming Pool Chemicals & Products Tradepower Victoria Falls have a wide range of hoses, leaf scoops and brushes. We are the agents for Blu52 chemicals and Eezi Pool acid, test kits, chlorine floaters and chlorine. Contact Neil Norman: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712587123/0774022312
Takeaway and Café Consumables Spices, condiment sachets, disposable takeaway trays, foam cups, plastic cutlery, cake domes, butchery machine blades, chip fryers, digital scales readily available at Tradepower’s Victoria Falls wholesale warehouse. Telephone (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312. Email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Thatching Grass Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell: +263 (0) 777 560 856 or landline +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: derekdianawilk@mango.zw or contact local agent, John Dewdney +263 (0) 13 44645 or +263 (0)775901534 website: http..//thatchinggrasssuppliers.webs,com
Refrigeration and air conditioning
Screen Printing BULAWAYO DAIRY DIVISION: KHAMI ROAD (1.5Km from Main Post Office) Tel: 09-61926/881650/73369 Email: orders@limpopodairy.co.zw
Contact Mr. S. Porter: 0772938 052
BULAWAYO HEAD OFFICE: 128 Fife Street Btwn 13th & 14th Ave. Tel: 09-60809 | 60822 Email: sales@tradepower.co.zw VICTORIA FALLS: 0774 022 312 Mr. Norman Tel: 013-44870 Fax: 013-44871 Email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Screenworks - For all your screen printing requirements, T/shirts, Banners, Posters etc. Call Zenzo + 263 775 728342 / + 263 712 614244. Email screenworksvicfalls@yahoo.com. 16 Sopers Arcade, Victoria Falls.
VICTORIA FALLS
EN C ID Y
airconditioning and refrigeration repairs, installations and servicing, including vehicle airconditioning. New galanz airconditioners in stock, freezer rooms,coldrooms and bar counters made to customer’s specifications, genuine spare refrigeration parts and refrigeration gases available – contact asheer ranchod on tel: 013-44623 mobile: 0772961739, e mail: geesrefvicfalls@gmail.Com – after hours tel: 013-45135 or call in at 83 pioneer rd – delta complex – light industrial sites victoria falls. “ Genuine products – free technical advise – cool prices ” Head office – 09-468323 50 plumtree rd belmont byo – contact Ashwin ranchod 0773954118 or dhishaan ranchod 0773744161, e mail grs@mweb.Co.Zw – website – www.Geesrefandaircon.Com“ We care for you air ”
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Contact Gee’s refrigeration for all your
Upholstery
VICTORIA FALLS
Widency - For all your canvas and tarpaulin products, game drive vehicle seats and canopies, boats, blinds. Office and household furniture contact Hudson on 0773 000888/9. Located 299 Rumsey Road, Vic Falls.
Wholesale Liquor Sales Tradepower Victoria Falls are the agents and distributozzrs for a wide range of liquor brands. Swaartland Wines are our speciality, including all famous liquor labels. Also a full range of canned soft drinks and mixers always available at genuine wholesale prices. Contact Neil on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312.
Wholesale Poultry Chicken – Zimbabwean bred FAIRHILL chickens are outstanding in quality and value. Whole birds, breasts, thighs, drumsticks, wings or in mixed portions. Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls. Contact Neil on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312. Our modern freezing facilities ensure absolute freshness always..
Lusaka
21
on your way to the Zambezi
DEVELOPMENT
Lusaka poised for facelift Lusaka stands to benefit immensely from these investments, particularly the city centre as evidenced by the return of Holiday Inn to Zambia and the Protea Hotel which is located within the city centre.
PHOTOS: Tim Matthews Kabili
Revamp Lusaka
Inutu Zaloumis Bagus, MD of Pam Golding Properties
Z
ambia’s capital has become something of a melting pot for the varying cultures of Africa, Asia and Europe. As more investment flows into the country, the city has opened itself up to different sights and sounds. The roads are bustling and there’s a new infrastructural project wherever one looks. But it’s the changing face of the city centre that tells the story of how the capital
is regenerating itself into a worthy destination for locals and foreigners alike. Sitting imposingly in the hub of the city is Society House, which for many years was not only one of the tallest buildings in Lusaka but also the most dilapidated. Following a fire that gutted the building in 1997, the building has been a symbol of the economic times of the country. Now, as Zambia makes steady progress in economic growth, Society House is set for a major refurbishment
that once complete will set the tone for the regeneration of the capital’s skyline. But it goes beyond the mere restoration of the building; it will kick-start what is expected to be the drive towards a modern city centre on par with any African capital. Louis Karol Architectural of Cape Town, South Africa, will lead the redesign of Society House which will see it comprise a 160-room four-star Holiday Inn hotel, including conferencing, office space, a retail mall and 1 100 vehicle parking garage. This milestone redevelopment is in response to the new economic gains that Zambia is enjoying with factors such high commodity prices, economic and social stability, together with increased investment inflows particularly from global players such as China.
Infrastructural projects currently underway mirror the investment in economic regeneration of the country by successive governments. This can be seen in road rehabilitation in the major business areas of the city. In addition, retailers continue to invest in the country with the emergence of a number of shopping malls across the city and country as a whole. Lusaka stands to benefit immensely from these investments, particularly the city centre as evidenced by the return of Holiday Inn to Zambia and the Protea Hotel which is located within the city centre. The city centre will offer business travellers and tourists alike a choice of world class accommodation. As progress continues on Society House, you can sense the anticipation in Lusaka residents as they look to the skyline. They’re looking at being part of an exciting time in the city. Visiit http://www.pamgolding. co.za/zambia
Arcades, Lusaka +260 211 253 420 www.pamgolding.co.za/zambia lusaka@pamgolding.co.zm
…everything on a plate 15 minutes FREE internet access at any of these outlets*
Kabulonga Manda Hill Makeni Mall
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*With any purchase of coffee between 10:30am to 12 noon or 3pm to 5pm and on presentation of this advert
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Restaurants in Lusaka & Ndola, Zambia | Customer care: +260 971 252 436
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zambezi lusaka
22 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
TRAVEL TIPS
Taking children on safari By Daphne Lindsay
T
hanks to the wonderful wildlife programmes on television these days, we have seen an increase in families wanting to come on safari with their children. I think this is fantastic as it’s great to educate kids about the bush and wildlife. Many guides get great pleasure sharing their knowledge with enthusiastic children who are eager to learn, and there are many lodges and safari operations which do cater for families. Our daughters have been exposed to this from an early age and love to go on game drives, walks and fishing trips. However, some careful planning is needed when taking children on safari, from choosing the right location / lodge / hotel that suits you and your family, especially if this is your first safari to Africa. Not all safari lodges will take children under 12 years. This may be due to safety factors with wildlife in close proximity. Some lodges and camps restrict children under
Many guides get great pleasure sharing their knowledge with enthusiastic children who are eager to learn, and there are many lodges and safari operations which do cater for families. nine years, so it’s important to find family-friendly lodges that will cater for your children’s ages. Some points to consider when planning your safari:What are the ages of your children? If you have children under six years, will your child have the attention span to sit on a three hour game drive and the ability to travel long distances without getting tired, bored or hungry? This is often a problem for children who, after the excitement of seeing their first elephant or lion, lose interest and would rather be playing at the lodge. Some lodges will only allow children under six
Weekly FREE email Zambian news summary
Carey, Daph and Christie Lindsay on holiday in Victoria Falls
Kate and Anna Jackson on safari
to participate on a game drive if the parents take exclusive use of the vehicle. There are a number of lodges that offer private houses which are ideal for families, with exclusive access to the whole house and a private guide and chef.
as riding elephants, canoeing, whitewater rafting – however, there is an age restriction for all of them.
Will your child listen to instructions from the guide and keep quiet when told to do so? Are they well behaved enough not to spoil other guests’ game viewing if you are on the same vehicle? Does the lodge have a swimming pool if your children need to be kept entertained between activities?
and development www.zambia-weekly.com
Does your child need meals early or at certain times? Child friendly lodges will cater for this. If you have a teenager, are they really interested in going on safari? I have been horrified to see parents allow their children to play on their phones, games and gadgets whilst on a game drive. These should be banned! Some teenagers also want to be kept active so locations such as Livingstone and Victoria Falls are ideal as they offer many different activities, such
Zambia Weekly Subscribe for free, unbiased analysis of
If they are toddlers or younger – do you need a baby sitter? A number of lodges will provide the service while you are having dinner for instance, however, these are not fully qualified personnel, more often simply experienced child minders.
What is your budget? Are you on a tight budget, want to self-drive and self-cater or a luxury all inclusive safari? Malaria and vaccinations Malaria is endemic in many parts of Africa, with some areas worse than others, but it is also seasonal, so consider taking small children in the cooler or drier months when there are fewer mosquitoes. Take all the precautions against malaria such as prophylactics, lotions and insecticide. Enquire what vaccinations your children will need to visit various countries – yellow fever is the most common.
What to take for your children on safari Try getting your kids enthusiastic and involved from the beginning, especially if this is their first safari, taking bird and animal identification books with you and getting them to tick the check lists which most lodges provide. Binoculars are a must. Encourage children who are old enough to photograph the animals, tracks, etc. If you are flying by light aircraft you will be restricted to how much luggage you can take. Stick to neutral/bush colours but take warm jackets and beanies for early morning or evening game drives if you are going on safari in winter. During summer when it is hot make sure children wear hats, drink lots of water and are covered in sunblock. Take a small first aid bag.
Opening Hours Mon - Fri 12:00 - 22:00 Sunday 12:00 - 17:00 26 Chaholi Rd Rhodes Park Lusaka, Zambia Tel: 0026 0211 253639 0026 0977 856040 E-mail: gerritz@iconnect.zm www.gerritz-restaurant.com
www.zamagsafaris.com +260 977 618 194 info@zamagsafaris.com
we take you places we know and trust
Zambezi News
livingstone TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
23
TOURISM
UN leader visits Livingstone By ZT correspondent
S
un Internationa l Zambia was honoured to host United Nations Secretary General Ban Kimoon when he paid a visit to the place where the smoke thunders and where the warm smiles are never forgotten. To welcome his delegation were Sun International General Manager Joanne Selby and her management team. Among his entourage were Foreign Affairs and Tourism Minister Given Lubinda, Commerce Minister Bob Sichinga, Former Southern
Province Minister Miles Sampa and senior officials. Ban Kimoon, accompanied by his wife Yoo Soon-taek, was on a three day official visit to Zambia. In his address to the National Assembly, Ban Kimoon applauded the Zambian government and people for the smooth transition of power during the September 2011 presidential elections which set a high bar for the continent and the world. The SecretaryGeneral also commended the strides that Zambia had made in achieving pillars of the Millennium Development Goals in education and reducing the country’s HIV prevalence rate.
CoNSERVATION
Best wishes for baby Suni
PHOTO: SUN INTERNATIONAL
By ZT Correspondent An injured baby elephant believed to be between five and seven months old was found by Top Turf employees outside the Falls Resort fence this April. The female calf, which could hardly walk because of a deep wound on its back, was brought to the Sun International stables while the Zambia Wildlife Authority was contacted. ZAWA vet Dr. Harvey Kamboi examined the youngster and reported that the cut on its back had penetrated to the spinal cord,
PHOTO: SUN INTERNATIONAL
affecting nerves leading to one leg, which caused semi paralysis. “The calf is under observation but if the nerves are damaged it may lead to a permanent paralysis,” he said.
onto a vehicle and transported to Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport, and flown out on her own private charter to Lusaka, where she was taken to the Elephant Orphanage.
After spending a few days being pampered at the luxury Sun International Resort under the care of Kelvin from the Elephant Orphanage, and having a constant stream of well-wisher visitors, guests and staff alike, ‘Sunny’ was declared fit to travel.
She is responding well to treatment; her damaged leg is still an issue, but with daily care, it is hoped that she will recover. She has made a new friend called Bezi, also her age and is enjoying the expert attention of the orphanage staff.
A team of experts flew from Lusaka to Livingstone to supervise the move. Under their guidance, Suni was carefully sedated, loaded
“Thank you to all who were involved in her rescue and her care,”said Sun International spokesperson Joyce Sikabbubba. “Delivering a million thrills is what we do best, even for our wildlife!”
Baby Giraffe
Newest addition to Team Sun International Zambia on 3rd June 2012 @ 16h30. We’re thrilled to announce the birth of a ‘bouncing’ baby boy.
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Suni and Bezi play in the grass
Ban Ki-moon, accompanied by his wife Yoo Soon-taek
Ban Ki-moon complimented Zambia on the fight against corruption and pledged the support of the United Nations in this national priority. He received thunderous cheers from the House as he made his congratulatory remarks to the national football team: “All who believe in miracles; all that root for unsung heroes; all who honour those who came before, we know Zambia’s victory was indeed written in the stars.” Ban Ki-moon officially opened the One-Stop Shop in Livingstone and proposed to rename it the One-StopGreen-Shop in line with being environmentally friendly. The One-Stop-Shop will enable investors who want to set up business in Livingstone to access everything under the same roof.
PHOTO: Joanne Selby
United Nations Secretary General Ban Ki-moon was Livingstone’s highest profile recent guest, on an official visit to Zambia.
EXPLORE ZAMBEZI’S WONDER. www.suninternational.com
•70766B-zambezi sun strip ads.indd 1
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zambezi livingstone
24 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
HISTORY - Part 1
The ‘Scramble for Africa’ T
Part 1 of a six part series marking the bicentennial of David Livingstone’s birthday in 2013. A thumbnail sketch of the times which divided and continue to define a continent.
FACT FILE
The story of quinine
he story of the Scottish missionary and explorer David Livingstone has made its way into our history books for good reason; his visit to what he named as the Victoria Falls in 1855 is a watershed event in Africa’s history. Visiting this part of the world today you can still see the Victoria Falls bridge, which was constructed within 50 years of his visit!
The Victoria Falls didn’t just launch David Livingstone’s career, but also those of Speke, Burton, Stanley, Baker and Cameroon, so our story of his life unfolds against the backdrop of the ‘Golden Era’ of African exploration, which began with his journey in 1855. During the next 30 years these men would crisscross the continent in a series of audacious journeys, mapping its geography as they went.
By Russell Gammon
PHOTO COURTESY OF RUSSELL GAMMON
The bridge stands as testament to the fact that this place went from terra incognita to part of the British Empire in just 50 years, and this same startling change was happening all over the continent. For many years prior to Livingstone’s journey the great powers in Europe had harboured plans to divide Africa between them, but their ambition had been tempered by the hostile environment. Thanks to diseases like malaria, the life expectancy of a European in the interior of Africa was just six months - under these circumstances, no-one was volunteering to go and survey this potential new territory.
A brief history of this most essential of drugs in the tropics.
David Livingstone and family
These maps would have a profound impact on the history of Africa since they would provide the tools, long awaited by the European powers, to divide the continent between them. They gathered at the Conference of Berlin in 1885 and within three months, seven European nations carved up 30 million square kilometers between them.
It is deeply disturbing to contemplate that at this, the most important meeting in Africa’s history, there was not a single representative of the people of Africa invited to attend; their wishes were deemed irrelevant. The topic remains highly emotive for the people of Africa, and so it should be, for that meeting has defined the last 150 years
Russell Gammon Safaris Bespoke Guiding and Keynote Speaking service for visiting conference and incentive, special interest, VIP and series tour groups. Victoria Falls Livingstone Chobe email: info@russellgammon.com www.russellgammon.com
of Africa’s history and will continue to influence events for many years to come. To think that this all came about because of the birth of one baby in a Glasgow slum called Blantyre almost 200 years ago; a child who would rise up from his humble birth to be eulogized at his death as “the greatest man of his generation.” To be continued.
Quinine was first recorded by the Jesuits in 1633 but it was hard to come by in significant quantities. The British tried to establish plantations to produce it on a large scale but the yields had been disappointing. Then in 1840, a British trader named Charles Ledger got hold of some seeds of a subspecies of the plant while on an expedition in Bolivia. Recognizing their potential economic value, he tried to sell them to the British; when they declined, Ledger sold his seeds instead to the Dutch who planted them on Java. The yields were spectacular and as a result, quinine’s proven efficacy as an antidote for malaria was firmly established by 1850. The wide scale availability of this drug would make travel in the interior of Africa survivable for the first time in history.
ILLUSTRATION: WIKIPEDIA
By Russell Gammon
Quinine (Cinchona calisaya)
As the Empire spread to all corners of the globe, quinine became an essential medication. It was usually taken in the evening with a dash of soda water and, to mask its bitter taste, a teaspoon of sugar. Along the way someone added a slice of lemon and a slug of gin and the Gin and Tonic was born! Charles Ledger died in obscurity and was never acknowledged for the critical part he played in making possible the greatest empire that the world has ever seen, and the world’s most popular sundowner - the G&T!
The Livingstone Bicentennial Celebrations will run from March to November 2013 in the town of Livingstone, to mark the 200th anniversary of the great explorer’s birthday. Russell Gammon, resident authority on David Livingstone, will author a six part serial on the great explorer, exclusive to Zambezi Traveller. Questions and contributions are welcomed.
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Travellers Friend 25
Sport
Africa Cup of Nations visits Livingstone
RefReshing the nation’s thiRst
Deserving winners of the African Cup of Nations, Zambia is celebrating by taking the trophy and team members to every province in the country; Livingstone was an early choice.
Chipolopolo team members on breakfast cruise on M.V. Makumbi From L to R - Kalusha Bwalya (ex Zambian Captain, now President of FAZ) Herve Renard (Coach) Kalililo Kakonje (Reserve Goalkeeper) Patrice Beaumille (Physical / Technical coach)
By ZT Correspondent
D
eserving winners of the African Cup of Nat ions , Z a mbia is celebrating by taking the trophy and team members to every province in the country; Livingstone was an early choice.
Livingstone was privileged to host key staff and players such as coach Herve Renard, Patrice Beaumille and Kalililo Kakonje. Members of the Football Association of Zambia and the Ministry of Sport also attended, including the legendary Kalusha Bwalya who is now the President of FAZ. Bwalya is the only surviving member of the team from 1993 as he was not on the plane that crashed into the Atlantic Ocean off Gabon. The ‘Great Kalu’ was instrumental in getting Zambian football back on the map after the accident and has captained and coached the team, as well as being named African Footballer of the Year, and nominated as 1996 FIFA World Player of the Year, the first ever to be nominated who was not playing for a European Club. Zambia Tourism Board and the Livingstone Tourism Association organised the visit; the Cup was displayed in the Civic Centre while the visitors did many of Livingstone’s activities sponsored by various hotels and operators. Herve Renard even played a bit of football with Madinda – the football playing elephant at Safpar’s Zambezi Elephant Trails. Then the group also met the big cats at Mukuni Big 5. They also enjoyed time on the Zambezi River with a breakfast cruise on Makumbi which is based at Zambezi Waterfront. ZTB hosted the welcome dinner on the lawns of the African Queen
and the following night a gala reception took place at David Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa, where the the group was also accommodated. The gala dinner turned into a fun party with some great musicians and lots of dancing. The trip was completed with a visit to the mighty Victoria Falls.
It was a wondeful win for the Chipolopolo boys, the more so because it took place in Gabon where 19 years earlier a devastating plane crash killed most of the Zambian football team of the time.
PHOTO: Sarah Mackenzie
a big nation has a big thirst. it takes a lager that has been born and brewed in Zambia to satisfy that thirst. a lager that reflects the character of a progressive, friendly and proud nation. a nation that moves ever forward but never forgets its roots. Mosi is the light drinking, passionately brewed and internationally awarded lager that delivers that refreshing and satisfying taste. that taste that is as truly Zambian as the people who enjoy it!
+260(0)3 327271 / 323141
info@africanview.it www.africanview.it
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6/1/12 11:41 AM
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Culture
A leader’s passion reveals the future PHOTO:ALAN SPARROW
S
nr. Chief Inyambo Yeta of the Lozi people sha res h is passion for the natural resources of his area and his excitement about the developments taking place, based on those resources. Having sat in many boardroom meetings, my being invited to the Snr. Chief ’s palace on the banks of the Zambezi River, and being exposed to the traditional protocols of such a meeting, definitely rates as one of the highlights of my career with Zambezi Traveller. Thank you, Snr. Chief Inyambo Yeta of the Lozi people, for sharing your passion for the natural resources that surround you and for the developments taking place. Alan Sparrow, a regular Zambezi Traveller contributor and Technical Coordinator for the Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy, facilitated the audience in May. As well as granting an exclusive interview, the Snr. Chief wished to formally thank and endorse the paper for its work in telling the conservation story.
Frances Jackson with Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta
Snr. Chief Inyambo Yeta is senior chief within the Barotse Royal Establishment, and a member of the board of the Peace Parks Foundation. He is a passionate conservationist whose vision is to rekindle the cultural knowledge of harmonized living between man and animal.
“We are lucky to have elders in our communities who still remember the days when they shared the land with large carnivores and herds of antelope. We need to learn once more from these people that we do not need to worry about human and wildlife conflict, we actually do know how to live in harmony together.”
“We are blessed and grateful to Zambezi Traveller for the effort made to tell the world about the work of the KAZA TFCA and about developments such as the Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy,”
“Within five to seven years this conservancy will be teeming with wildlife and we will be able to enter into viable partnerships with the private sector,” said the Snr. Chief. “I am really looking forward to sharing this fantastic natural resource with the world. We have species of birds that are particular to this area, and high on the birder’s list. For the enthusiastic ‘twitchers’ good sightings of the rare black cheeked love bird and
northern white breasted Koran are reported here, so already we have something special to offer.” The Snr. Chief also touched on the valuable fish resource of the Zambezi River, and said that through the Simalaha Conservancy they will look at ways to make it into a viable wealth creation project for the fisherman in the area. Mwandi Mission already assists by providing fry to restock the river.
Community
A mission on a mission
PHOTO: RuairiDh Waddell
By Frances Jackson
said the Snr. Chief.
The Snr. Chief shared his excitement and commitment to the development of the Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy. “This conservancy is unique, as it brings together two chiefdoms and two cultures, the Lozi and the Tonga. We are working together for conservation and wealth creation for our communities. “This partnership will be something that other chiefdoms in the KAZA region can learn from. We are at the very centre of the KAZA TFCA and we can play a pivotal role. We have all the ingredients necessary to enable us to bring a positive focus to KAZA TFCA. “Simalaha is a pioneering initiative in Zambia and I commend the government for acknowledging that this conservancy module will benefit the local community.” Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy is 100% owned by the local community, and the Zambian Government is assisting the two chiefdoms to achieve their goals. It is already apparent that that the community are acknowledging their ownership, and understand that they will directly benefit from it. The conservancy is a tool for community wealth creation. Funding is flowing in, and they will shortly be erecting game fencing; once this is completed, the reintroduction of various species of game will begin.
Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta and the Governor of Caprivi prepare with AWF Mwandi Fish Farm Coordinator Donald Namushe to release fingerlings.
Frances Jackson An invitation to visit Snr. Chief Inyambo Yeta at Mwandi (translated means ‘plenty of fish’), the home of the Chief’s palace, gave me the opportunity to visit the famous Mwandi Mission that really makes a difference in this community . The mission was a hive of activity and as I sat on the side lines whilst Alan Sparrow and Ruairidh Waddell chatted I watched Rob Dixon-Thomson, (Ruiaridh’s father-in-law from Australia, a water systems specialist) sorting out the water systems at the mission. He came with a group of Australian farmers who have volunteered their time and expertise to lay new pipes and increase the water supply at Mwandi Mission. For the brief time that I was there I learnt that they educate children from nursery school to senior school, they have an ongoing class room building project and a very active agronomy programmeme, called the Mwandi United Church of Zambia Agricultural and Fish Farm project that assists in providing food for the hundreds of disadvantaged children who are fed daily at Mwandi Mission and the restocking of the very valuable fish resource in the nearby Zambezi River. Earlier on in the year the Barotse Royal Establishment in conjunction
with the African Wildlife Foundation and Mwandi United Church of Zambia Agricultural Project held a ceremony to launch the first fish restocking programme in the area. A total of 50,000 three spot and red breasted tilapia fingerlings were released into the Zambezi River around Mwandi. “We often overlook the fact that the river not only provides tourists and sport fishermen with a place of relaxation and recreation but that it is a massive economic and food resource for hundreds of subsistence communities lining the river. With the rehabilitation of the trans-Caprivi highway these fishing communities stretching from Kazungula to Sesheke have been able to access new markets and develop a commercial fishing industry that in five years has taken a terrible toll on fish stocks across the Simalaha flood plain. The restocking exercise is only the first step in creating a new sustainable management programme for our river.”Says Ruairidh Waddell who runs the agricultural and fish farm project.
Zambezi Traveller would like to thank Howard Shackelton, from Shackeltons Lodge for providing accommodation to Alan Sparrow and Frances Jackson at Mwandi for the visit to Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta.
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Travellers Friend 27
PLANT ENCOUNTERS
The healing powers of aloes a. chabaudii flower buds
a. cryptopoda flowers
a. cryptopoda flowers and fruits
What makes aloe plants so special? Is there scientific evidence to support the claims of their diverse properties, and which species occur around Livingstone? By Evelyn Roe,
H
istor y records the importance of aloe plants: Alexander the Great conquered the island of Socotra for its extensive Aloe vera plantations; according to the Bible, the body of Jesus was wrapped in aloe leaves when removed from the cross; and the victims of atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki were successfully treated for radiation burns with aloe leaf gel. Aloe plants have succulent leaves made of two main parts: the green outer rind, which contains vessels that release a bitter yellow latex when cut; and the inner colourless pulp, which can be removed like a fillet to prepare aloe leaf gel
Cut aloe leaf
from the liquid inside the cells. The latex contains aloin, a powerful laxative, whereas the watery gel consists of a wide range of compounds that assist in healing damaged skin and internal membranes, and in balancing the immune system. Centuries of anecdotal evidence support Aloe vera’s therapeutic properties, which scientists have long sought to understand in terms of indi-
a. cryptopoda flowers
vidual chemical components. Recent research shows that the effectiveness of aloe gel comes from the synergistic action of many types of molecules, rather than a single compound, and its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic (and many other) properties have been verified, if not fully understood. Zambia has 21 of the world’s 400 or so aloe species, six of which occur in Southern Province: Aloe excelsa (also known as Zimbabwe aloe), is found in this country in only one locality in Kafue Gorge and is therefore listed as ‘Vulnerable’ in Zambia’s Red Data List. The others are A. chabaudii, A. christianii, A. cryptopoda, A. greatheadii, and A. zebrina. Local uses include adding aloe gel to chickens’ drinking water to treat a range of diseases, and dipping poultry in a leaf infusion to discourage parasites.
The nectar-filled flowers are edible and can be dried and pressed into cakes. I often harvest gel from A. chabaudii to treat dry or sun-
a. zebrina flowers
burned skin, and perhaps other local species could be used beneficially, but don’t ingest aloe gel unless it has been tested for safe internal use.
a. zebrina flowers and fruits
Evelyn Roe; Botanical Researcher with Nor th-West Naturalists’ Society of Zambia; roe.evelyn@gmail.com Copyright: Permission to use photographs granted by Helen Pickering
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HISTORY
Livingstone to host Bicentennial Celebrations for the great Victorian explorer in 2013 L
ivingstone Zambia is to host a series of international events to celebrate the bicentenary of Dr David Livingstone’s birth. Arts, cultural and sporting events will be held in and around Livingstone between 19 March and 16 November 2013. David Livingstone, the worldrenowned Victorian explorer and missionary, was born in 1813 and was the first white man to view The Victoria Falls back in 1855. The Livingstone Arts, Cultural & Sporting Events Development Organisation (LACSEDO) has been formed as a non-profitmaking Trust with the aim of organising the bicentenary events and to foster a privatepublic partnership working with the community, businesses, the government and other organisations. “We will be celebrating David Livingstone’s commitment to exploration, medicine, education and eradication of slavery – still an active campaign 200 years later - and we will be inviting neighbouring countries to come and participate in the celebrations”,
“We will be celebrating David Livingstone’s commitment to exploration, medicine, education and eradication of slavery “
Climate
Taking a look at climate change BY ZT correspondent
says Mr Fred Mwendapole, Trustee and Media, Government Liaison Officer for the initiative. Plans for the year include theatre, street theatre, cultural dancing, bands and concerts, soccer, seven-a-side rugby, Zambezi Classic golf, cycling, trail marathon, motocross enduro, family fun weekend, 4WD rally, Chinese kite competition, multi-day events on the Zambezi, fishing, and a photographic/art competition of The Falls as well. Livingstone 2013 is going to be something very special. The bicentenary will kickstart with a Gala event on 19 March 2013, followed by a colourful, vibrant International Cultural Festival. The bicentenary initiative is also seeking to set up a medical exchange between Livingstone and Scotland; organising an international academic conference on David Livingstone; setting up a cultural
PHOTO: Belinda Hodge
By ZT Correspondent
Dancer from the Zambian National Dance Troupe performing in front of the British High Commissioner to Zambia, Mr James Thornton, and the Permanent Secretary for Foreign Affairs & Tourism, Ambassador Peter Kasanda, at the Official Launch of the David Livingstone Bicentenary 2013 initiative held at The Livingstone Museum.
exchange between schools and universities in Zambia and the UK, and it is encouraging schools and churches in the UK to raise funds to help the Anglican Street Children’s Project Zambia. It is expected that other Zambian-based charities will also benefit from this exciting initiative. “We aim to ensure there is a lasting legacy moving forward from this bicentennial year”, said Belinda Hodge, trustee and co-organiser, in her speech to invited guests
at the official launch of the Bicentenary Initiative held at the Livingstone Museum. “This initiative is something that everyone in the community can be involved in. There is already huge interest, both here and abroad, and we welcome sponsors, partners and participants from throughout the region.” For further information on the bicentenary celebrations visit www.livingstone2013.com
A recent workshop brought together Zambian agribusinesses, local and international experts, for a series of presentations and group discussions on what climate change means for agriculture and agribusiness. In line with its Corporate Social Initiative projects in the region, Sun International Zambia’s CSI Coordinator Stain Musungaila recently attended a ClimateSmart Agribusiness Workshop in Lusaka. The aim of the workshop was to explore climate change related opportunities and challenges for agribusinesses. It was organised by Price Waterhouse Cooper’s sustainability and climate change team as part of the Imani Business Innovation Facility in Zambia. Th e Wo r k s h o p b ro u g h t together Zambian agribusinesses, local and international
experts, for a series of presentations and group discussions on what climate change means for agriculture and agribusiness. All sectors of the Zambia economy including Sun International’s agribusiness partnership will face developing threats and opportunities. Zambia is heavily dependent on agriculture and the participants were made to understand the likely impacts of climate change and how to ensure their agribusinesses do not suffer commercially. Response and adaptation to climate change was seen as critical for businesses as they need to grow in a low carbon way. Sun International Zambia, in partnership with Agribusiness for Sustainable Natural African Plant Products (ASNAPP), initiated a community based project that supports underprivileged women and their families in Maramba Township of Livingstone. The project involves cultivation of mushrooms for sale and home consumption using modern spawn making machines. This is done in affordable grass housing that provides the optimum environment for germination and growth of mushrooms.
TOURISM
New logo for tourism body
events@livingstone2013.com media@livingstone2013.com
By ZT correspondent
L
i v i n g s t o n e To u r ism Association has announced the winner of the competition to design a new logo and slogan for its marketing campaign.
Livingstone Tourism Association’s primary focus is to promote Livingstone as one destination which can fulfil all the needs of an African holiday, including adventure, culture, history and wildlife, with both budget and luxury options. To enhance the marketing campaign, the association held a competition for a new logo and slogan. The competition generated a fantastic response and the judges were spoilt for choice. After much deliberation, the winners have been announced: First prize goes to Annie Chapman who won two nights accommodation sponsored by David Livingstone Safari Lodge, activities sponsored by Livingstone Adventures, and a Historic Bridge Tour with lunch sponsored by the V i c t o r i a Fa l l s B r i d g e Company. The second prize winner is Ryan Donald who won two nights accommodation at Zambezi Waterfront along with a sunset cruise and elephant ride, all sponsored by Safari Par Excellence Zambia.
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ADVENTURE
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BIRDING
A bird in the hand
Rafting and fishing for adrenalin
Johannes Stallmann with his tiger
By Johannes Stallmann
I
magine combining some of the best rafting in the world with the exhilaration of tiger fishing on the mighty Zambezi! I decided to do just that with Bundu Adventures in Livingstone and try my luck with the rapids and the big tigers below the rapids. James Hitchins, an old hand with all things rafting, kayaking and tiger fishing joined me on the trip to show me the good spots. Kelvin, our raft guide, got us through rapid number 10 and number 11 with cool professionalism, before James waved us to a halt just below rapid number 11. It was not only tigers we were after; the giant vundu, purple labeo, cornish jack, bottlenose and yellow fish are some of the species that are regularly hooked. We tried for yellow fish and bottlenose for a while with no luck, before we decided to cast in the bait for tigers. When there’s food around, tigers don’t nibble, they strike hard and viciously! A few minutes after casting I got my first hit… and the line snapped! James explained that I probably used the wrong knot. I put on a new hook attached to the line with the ‘proper knot’ and caught a tiger right away!
When there’s food around, tigers don’t nibble, they strike hard and viciously! A few minutes after casting I got my first hit… and the line snapped! We caught a few more tiger of medium size (around 2 kg) before a scrumptious lunch was served on the white sandy beach. After some more ferocious strikes we had to pack up and elevate the adrenaline levels a bit more on some of the next rapids we had to pass on our way to rapid numbr 25, where we took the cable car up the gorge. It is also quite common to catch vundu in these waters. James tells me that on his previous trip he had a vundu on the hook. The monster dived down between the rocks and the line snapped! Yeah, yeah, the big one always gets away… Our day trip was just a taste of the rafting and fishing combo. An overnight trip is ideal to enjoy this activity to the full. Camping under the stars on a white sandy beach, and dinner prepared on the open fire while you are fishing for the nocturnal hunters like cornish jack. Dream on… or go out and do it!
Bob Stjernstedt, Daniel Mwizabi, Dieter Oschadleus, Annette Willemen
Dieter Oschadleus , Bob Stjernstedt
By ZT Correspondent
“Bob was a wonderfully unconventional and colourful character with a marvellous ear [for birds] and a huge collection of sound recordings from all over Africa. We will really miss him and his wealth of bird knowledge”. Clare Whitehead Mateke (Researcher, Livingstone Museum) said. Baron Robert Stjernstedt, fondly known as ‘Bob the Birdman’ was a regular contributor to Zambezi Traveller, and we thank him for sharing is birding knowledge with the world through our publication. Many people in the Zambezi region will miss this interesting man. Zambezi Traveller offers our condolences to his family. Read on line for more information on ‘Bob the Birdman’ www.zambezitraveller.com/ destination/livingstone
PHOTO: EAnnette Willemen
PHOTO: Eveylyn Roe
Farewell ‘Bob the Birdman’
PHOTO: Eveylyn Roe
PHOTO: Christa Fromherz
OBITUARY
By Evelyn Roe
Z
ambian ornithologists reached new heights on a birdringing course on Jungle Junction’s Bovu Island in March. The weeklong programmeme was intense and informative, while evenings in the riverside bar were relaxed and entertaining. The Zambian Ornithological Society organised the event, which was led by Dr. Dieter Oschadleus, expert bird-ringer from the Animal Demography Unit, University of Cape Town, and author of SAFRING’s bird-ringing manual. SAFRING collates data and offers advice to ornithologists throughout Africa and beyond. One example: their project known as PHOWN ( P h o t o s o f We a v e r Nests) monitors weaver species globally. Participants included Peter Chalcraft, Kabuku Likando (ZOS), Ror y McDougall, Kelvin Mkandawire (ZOS), Daniel Mwizabi (ZOS), Janet Peterson, Leslie Reynolds, Griffin Shanungu (ZAWA), Bob Stjernstedt, and Annette Willemen. Two members of the local community assisted: Godfree Kalemba, a guide on Bovu Island, and Brighton Nyambe, a trainee guide.
In six days, the team caught and ringed 327 birds of 45 different species. Notable were five which Dr. Oschadleus hadn’t hand led before, including the White-fronted Bee-eater.There were also several intra-African migrants, such as the Pygmy Kingfisher. Each day a new site was chosen for erecting the mistnets to catch a variety of birds in flight.The sites included the wooded island, sorghum fields by the villages, and reed beds near Katombora. The ringers learned to string the fine nets between anchored poles, getting up by 4.30 am to be ready for the early-morning movements of birds between roosting and feeding sites. They checked the nets every 20 minutes, through to late afternoon. But that was the easy part...! Extracting birds from mistnets was much more challenging; the SAFRING manual advises: ‘You will learn to tolerate a mosquito biting you while you complete the delicate task of taking a bird out of a mistnet’! From the nets, the ringers carried the birds in cotton bags to the data-collection table, where they recorded mass, length of head, wing, tail, beak and tarsus; the moult. These and other biometric data that contribute to our understanding of bird populations, migrations, daily movements, and life histories.
Pete and Kelvin setting up the mist nets
When large flocks of birds such as queleas hit a net, the birds are ringed and set free without being measured to speed up their release, a technique dubbed ‘ring and fling.’ The rings vary in size, but each has a code which will be used to identify the bird if it is encountered again in the future. Once the ringers have selected the ring, they place it carefully around the bird’s leg and squeeze it closed with pliers, releasing the bird as soon as possible. At the end of the course, all participants felt that they had learned a great deal, and had come to appreciate the need to have handled at least 500 birds to even consider applying for certification, which entitles a ringer to a set of officially-coded rings. One member of the team met this qualification and on the last evening, Dr. Oschadleus was delighted to recognise Rory McDougall as one of Zambia’s official bird-ringers. www.wattledcrane.com www.junglejunction.info http://safring.adu.org.za http://weavers.adu.org.za/ phown.php www.rogerbutterfield.co.uk Copyright: Permission A. Willemen for photographs of “Pete & Kelvin at the nets”
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Zambezi Traveller
FACT FILE
PHOTO: RUTH HENSON
The benefits of holistic farming In March 2012 the Livingstone Branch of the Wildlife and Environmental Conservation Society of Zambia invited local farmer, Ruth Henson, to give a talk on he local branch of the Holistic Management. The talk was attended by 27 Wildlife and Environpeople, including a number of farmers and teachers.
By Clare Mateke
2003
T
Henson concluded with suggestions for improved management of the Mosi-o-tunya National Park through the use of holistic management. Some of her recommendations:
mental Conservation Society of Zambia invited Livingstone farmer Ruth Henson to give a talk on holistic management in March.
The talk was attended by farmers and teachers as well as interested members.
Holistic management looks at the whole picture by trying to understand the environment being managed, looking at the use of livestock, land health, soil, staff, finances and many other issues as a whole. Henson said she now had a better understanding of the environment, a better understanding of the causes of environmental problems, and a wider understanding of the possibilities for solutions. Some of the positive results she has seen on Martindale Farm include more grass, more livestock capacity, less soil erosion, more ground water, more wildlife, large reduction in fires, improved economics and better employee relations. The photos taken eight years apart at the same place and time of year on Martindale Farm show the results of managed grazing of livestock (sheep, goats and cattle) on land which was not previously grazed – more grass, less soil erosion, more young plants and generally more ground cover.
2011 (Same place , same time of year)
Fire control badly needed. In the absence of predators there is a need to draw the grazing animals away from the river in the rainy season. The park would benefit from planning and a vision for what it is trying to achieve. There is a need to educate people that ‘leaving things to nature’ does not necessarily work if the environment is brittle or if any part has been changed - such as the removal of predators.
News Cyclists leave their mark across Africa
Put Foot Rally returns – with shoes!
Tour d’Afrique are known for their annual Cape to Cairo cycle trip. Along the way, they stop off at Zambezi Waterfront in Livingstone for a couple of days well-earned rest and to enjoy the Victoria Falls and surrounding activities and scenery. They also manage to ‘do some good while having fun,’ with bike donations as well as projects supporting the environment. In early April, a function was organised at The Waterfront where Tour d’Afrique donated 25 bikes to seven local schools to enable children who live too far away from a school to receive an education. The bikes were donated through African Impact and the Happy Africa Foundation.
The Put Foot Rally arrives at Zambezi Waterfront and The Bushfront, Livingstone, 25-28 June. Some 60 cars of all types and sizes and 205 people (often in fancy dress) take part. The Put Foot Rally’s mission is to donate a pair of shoes to each and every child at the school, as well as helping with building work at the school and installing a new water pump.
Website: http://www.tourdafrique.com/blog/foundation/tdafoundation-donation-ceremonylivingstone-zambia
Contact Safari Par Excellence / Sarah Mackenzie. Email: zamwf@ safpar.com phone: +260 213 320606 Website: www.putfootrally.com
Planting for the future
‘Trees for Zambia’ is a mass treeplanting project planned for Livingstone in July by Greenpop who are hosting a reforestation and eco-education campaign in Livingstone to kickstart the
Advertise in the Livingstone Classifieds Frances Jackson fjackson@iwayafrica.com Accommodation
Chanters Lodge : Stay at Chanters Lodge in Living-
stone, great food, wonderful garden with pool, comfortable reasonably priced rooms in Lukulu Crescent, off Obote Avenue Phone: + 260 213 323412 Email : richardchanter@gmail.com http://www.chanters-livingstone.com twitter/@livilodge
Accommodation
Ngolide Lodge: Well equipped air-conditioned rooms. Two night packages. Continental/Indian Restaurant operating as The Golden Leaf Restaurant. Mosi-oa –Tunya Road Lodge :+ 260 213 321091/2 Restaurant : + 260 213 321266 E-mail :ngolidelodge@gmail.com www.ngolidelodge.com
dormitory accommodation set in a large garden with swimming pool, braai area. Sauna & beauty salon. Free airport pick-ups. Opposite Shoprite, Mosi-oa-Tunya Square. Livingstone Backpackers : Budget accommoda-
tion in dormitory- style chalets or camping. Facilities include sandy poolside bar, jacuzzi, braai area & selfcatering kitchen. Next to The Red Cross, Mokambo Road, Livingstone Phone : + 260 213 324730 Email: ahorizon@zamnet.zm
Pumulani Livingstone: Affordable, charming
town lodge with spacious air-conditioned en-suite rooms. Authentic Traditional Zambian Restaurant with cultural dancing activities. Phone : + 260 213 320981 Mobile: + 260 (0)97182027 Email: info@pumulanizambia.com www.pumulanizambia.com
Website: http://www.greenpop. org/projects/trees-for-zambia/
Two shows bring two awards Safari Par Excellence has had a busy few months with marketing. March was The Getaway Show in Cape Town where Safpar was honoured to win the Best Tour Operator award. In April Safpar attended the Zambia International Trade Exhibition (ZITE) in Lusaka, where they were awarded Most Loyal Exhibitor, a result of the company’s dedication to the local show and the domestic tourism market within Zambia.
+263 (0) 712 208 370
Accommodation
Art Studio & Gallery
Butchery
Gift Shop
Victoria Apartments – Livingstone: Modern self-catering units with 2 en-suite bedrooms, fully equipped kitchens, DSTV, Wifi, secure parking and garden. US116 per suite per night – conditions apply. Next to Protea Hotel, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road Phone Mark + 260 (0) 973313644 vareservations@gmail.com
Find us 4th left turn towards the airport from Wasawange Lodge. E-mail : wayiwayi1956@yahoo.com Mobile : + 260 (o)95559101 or + 260 (0) 977325799
Fallsmeat Ltd : Top quality meat, biltong and
Reflections: Camping equipment, good selection of assorted cards and gifts for all occasions. Located: Falls Park Shopping Centre Mibile : + 260 (o) 977788575
Charity
Restaurants
Activities
Auto Repair Bennett Engineering : Professional engine
Walk With The Rhino on a 3 hour ‘walking safari’
in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Inclusive pickup and drop-off, park fees, professional guide, game scout , light breakfast, halfway snacks, cold water/ soft drinks.‘ TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE‘ LIVINGSTONE SAFARIS Tel : + 260 213 322267 Cell : + 260 (0) 977450716 E-mail :gecko@zamnet.zm
Fawlty Towers: Private en-suite rooms &
project in which they hope to make Zambia a greener and more sustainable place. Deforestation is a severe problem in this part of the world – support this initiative before it is too late.
assembling, vehicle maintenance and servicing. Skimming of cylinder heads. Reborring/ skimming engine blocks. Press fit conrods. Test/set/fit injector nozzles. Fitting of cam bushes. Vehicle diagnostic. Import spares from South Africa Mosi-os-Tunya Road, opposite Falls Park Contact : + 260 213 321611 Mobile : +260 (0) 978308936
Art Studio & Gallery Wayiwayi Art Studio & Gallery : Offers original
artworks by Lawrence and Agnus Buya – serious art collectors and internationally acclaimed Zambian artists. Craft lessons in, drawing, painting, jewelry making, tiedye and printing and guided studio tours. Prior booking is required. THIS IS A PLACE NOT TO MISS.
travel in Style! with Mazhandu Family Buses
Books & Stationery Bookworld Livingstone: Selling a good
selection of children’s, professional, reference & educational books. All at affordable prices. Stationery items also available. Contact us : + 260 213 32141
Daily Routes Livingstone Sesheke
boerwors and many other products. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone Town Centre Phone + 260 (0) 979497181
Rotary Club : Every Friday the Rotary Club of
Livingstone meet at the Royal Livingstone Golf & Country Club. 13.00hrs – 14.00hrs Contact Sue + 260 (0)965888810
Coffee House Infusionz Coffee House : Come in for a wide
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range of coffee, sweet treats and the freshest light meals in town. For reservations and cake orders. Opening times 08.00hrs -21.00hrs Call: +260 (o)967437508 Mosi-oa-Tunya Shopping Centre
Get your listed on our online directory today
Fuel Station
The Z ambezi River is now officially online
Engen: Falls Park towards Victoria Falls. 24 hr fuel,
convenient store Phone:+260 213 322584 E-mail : ambleside@zamnet.zm
Daily Departure Times Lusaka
Livingstone
1st Bus 06:30Hrs
1st Bus 06:00Hrs
2nd Bus 07:30Hrs
2nd Bus 07:00Hrs
3rd Bus 09:00Hrs
3rd Bus 09:00Hrs
Getting to your business and leisure desitination has
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at special fares. Travel with us and enjoy our fantastic onboard customer services throughout your journey.
Monze
4th Bus 11:30Hrs
4th Bus 10:30Hrs
Ndola
5th Bus 13:30Hrs
5th Bus 13:30Hrs
Kitwe
6th Bus 19:30Hrs
6th Bus 20:00Hrs
Choma
Laughing Dragon Chinese Restaurant: Superb
Sichuan Cuisine, take-aways & restaurant. Self-contained local accommodation. John Hunt Way behind Post Office Phone : + 260 213 322555
www.zambezitraveller.com
Travel and Booking Enquiries Mazhandu Family Bus Services Ltd +260 977 805064 (Hotline) +260 975 805064 (Livingstone) Email: panga@zamnet.zm www.mazhandu.com
Kafue
31
on your way to the Zambezi
Tourism
Kafue recovers a glorious past By Ken Coe
A
persona l accou nt of visits two years apart to Kaf ue National Park reports on the astonishing changes which have taken place. How many times have we felt we were born too late? What it must have been like, for example, to experience the Ngorongoro Crater before the vehicle became a common species there. What it must have been like to see the migration of black wildebeest on South Africa’s highveld before the great slaughter for their skins. What it must have been like to eavesdrop on great white hunters gathered at the Stanley Hotel bar in Nairobi…and so on. The Nanzhila Plains area in Kafue National Park is one such place that evoked that exact sentiment when I visited in 2009. Nanzhila revealed glimpses of the past in carefully controlled doses, leaving me to conclude that I, born too late, had missed it. Well, now having visited for the second time, I am not so sure…
PHOTO: Ken Coe
Sable bulls fighting
When I adventured to this relatively forgotten place back in 2009, it was planned mostly out of curiosity. A respected walking safari guide had ceased operating in the area. A self-driver who camped at Nanzhila reported of not seeing any game, much less hearing anything overnight. Thankfully, Steve Smith, armed with indelible memories of his childhood holidays in Kafue, tendered for the then derelict site and built Nanzhila Plains Camp in 2006. In 2009, our ‘adventure’ yielded some surprisingly good sightings, including lion, cheetah, wild dog, sable, roan, bush pig and a good assortment of birds – all pulse-quickening, high quality sightings – but in fleeting doses.
Then began a real push to conserve the area. Nanzhila Plains Camp sponsored a first ever off-season (rainy season lasting from November to April) anti-poaching effort during the 2009 – 2010 season. Then, the Nature Conservancy, along with the Zambian Wildlife Authority and Nanzhila Plains Camp, led an anti-poaching and fire management effort starting in late 2010. The result is astounding. Merely two years ago, reedbuck would high-tail at a distance while letting out their distinctive warning whistles. Now, they seem to have at
ADVENTURE
PHOTO:MAWIMBI
ZT correspondent
Canoes on the Kafue River
photographic equipment and binoculars to record the stunning beauty and variety of habitats as they glide silently along the river through narrow winding channels beneath a canopy of overhanging riverine forest. Brilliantly coloured kingfishers dart from tree to tree ahead of you and your heart skips a beat with the splash of a crocodile as it slides off the bank as you approach.
You will also have the opportunity for some excellent birding for species such as the African Finfoot, Pels Fishing Owl and in the evenings you maybe lucky to spot the White-backed Night Heron. Often you share the water with huge Kafue elephants crossing the river and feeding on the islands. There is also the possibility to spot a family of foraging Cape Clawless Otters.
Greater kudu emerge from the tree line to feed on termitaria vegetation, gliding from one mound to the next. I will never forget the sight of one particular male two years ago panicking into full stride as he saw us from more than a The guides are all very experienced and ensure that guests are kept out of harms way. Some excitement can be experienced when shooting the faster flowing sections of river in the safe inflatable canoes that are totally unsinkable and bounce easily off any underwater obstacles.
New Kafue canoeing expeditions The untapped beauty of the Kafue River, Zambia is now available to canoeing and wilderness enthusiasts. A new Company – “Mawimbi” a Swahili word meaning ‘small waves’, is running canoe expeditions down the river from just below Mukambi Lodge to the Itezhi Tezhi Dam, a distance of 90 km. The expedition will typically take three to four days and will involve camping out in the Kafue National park, Zambia on route, with beautiful bush walks into the park at selected spots. The camps will be set up before hand so the canoeists will only have a small day pack to take with them and of course their
least doubled in number and just sit under the shade of a termite mound chewing the cud while watching us with indifference. The same goes for the impala. In just two years? It almost doesn’t make sense. Oribi abound as well out in the open. Waterbuck gather around the Nanzhila River, which is reduced to a series of shrinking pools this time of year.
Close to the end of the trail on day 3, there is a short porterage of about 1 km where you will be assisted with the carrying of the canoes by a team of local fishermen thereby ensuring that even the local community benefits through employment opportunities. At the end of the expedition the canoes and canoeists are transferred back to a comfortable lodge for some well deserved luxury, a welcome shower and soft comfortable beds for their last night.
thousand metres away. On this trip, about half the kudu groups would be approachable, and none would panic. Elephant, however, still keep their distance. Zebra and wildebeest are still scant and remain shy. My guess is that unlike most animals of Kafue, elephant, zebra and wildebeest disperse outside the park during the rains, where they encounter poaching. Nanzhila Plains Camp is a comfortable bush camp. It is a throwback in that there is nothing fancy – just sensible comfort. The vehicles are charmingly creaky, the food is simple but excellent, and the hosts (Brad and Ruth) are endearing. The place is frozen in time, really. If someone gave me a million bucks to upgrade Nanzhila Plains Camp, I wouldn’t spend a dime. In each of the three excursions through Mafuta Loop, we would have multiple sightings of sable, roan, kudu, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest and wildebeest. Along with eastern Hwange, the western woodlands at Nanzhila must be the best place to view sable. An interesting day excursion is the Lake Itezhi-Tezhi area. A two-hour drive north from Nanzhila lands you in a totally different biome – with the lake, narrow floodplains surrounding it, and brushy vegetation surrounding them. Hippos and crocs are easily seen on the lake, and hundreds of impalas and pukus graze the lakeshores. So, is Nanzhila a speciality area that appeals merely to the safari connoisseur? Not so fast. Steve Smith had never seen a male lion in the immediate area until this year. Now, there are four known male lions in
the area. Nanzhila has always been good for cheetah and wild dog. In fading light one evening, we encounter a mother cheetah and cub near Mafuta. Wild dog hadn’t been seen since May, but this is likely due to their denning far away from the newly intensified lion activity. (Indeed, a pack of 19 dogs, with 10 pups are seen in late October returning to the Plains.) Signs of leopard are everywhere. Fittingly, lion surround my chalet just as I hit the sack on our last night. Benson Siyawareva, my guide and companion on both visits to Kafue, who is still sitting by the campfire, shines his torch on a lioness who is merely 15 metre from my doorstep. Leaves rustle near the side of the chalet. As I would later find out, the rustling is caused by a big male lion looking at me through a wire mesh ‘window’of the chalet. Though I cannot see him in the darkness, his face is only a few feet from mine, causing me to get a whiff of rancid meat he was feeding on. From the ‘poached out’ days of the ‘90s, Nanzhila has come a long way. It is within a few feet – sniffing distance – of becoming a prime wildlife destination again. Much of it will depend on the effectiveness of the current conservation projects. The ‘easy’ part, if you will – resource protection – is being executed, but long-term conservation objectives will not be met unless the communities surrounding the park are engaged. TNC, ZAWA and Nanzhila Plains Camp are trying to do just that. And if successful, I will have been born just at the right time.
At Nanzhila Plains Camp, we offer remote Africa in its true unrefined beauty. Vast and spacious. This offers our guests a unique African experience off the beaten path.
www.mawimbi-adventure.com
NEW
Discover The Kafue River By Canoe
One to 4 days canoeing, day trips Tel: +263 4 861286 e-mail: info@mawimbi-adventure.com
Steve Smith – Owner Manager info@nanzhila.com
32
Luangwa on your way to the Zambezi
Walking Safaris
Talking about guiding Garth: In Zambia the system is unique in so far as we have three staff on every walk. My Zambia Wildlife Authority scout Mathews, whose main role is to deal with confrontational wildlife; myself as a qualified walking guide who deals with the guests and leads the walk, making all major decisions, and my tea bearer Rabson, who is a trainee guide whose major job is to stop guests from running, provide an extra pair of eyes and to carry excess equipment.
It’s not about the animals
PHOTO: Sanctuary Zebra Plains
Walking safaris
By Frances Jackson
T
he Luangwa is worldrenowned for being the home of the walking safari. Zambezi Traveller speaks with Sanctuary’s Zebra Plains camp professional guide, Garth Hovell, to get some insights into the skills that either make or break the traveller’s safari experience. ZT: How long have you been a guide? Garth: More than 18 years. I first started my apprenticeship in Zimbabwe in 1993 after high school.
ZT: You have a huge responsibility to your guests on many levels; safety obviously is important, but your tracking skills must be a vital ingredient in what will make either a good or bad safari? Garth: Tracking is a vital skill, but the four main principles of guiding are guest safety, guest sensitivity, guest enjoyment and guest education. Knowing what to do with the information and how to put it across to your guests is extremely important. Guiding is more often about
Last year we did a walk where we saw everything, from lions hunting buffalo, a honey badger up a tree, roan antelope, fish eagles fighting in mid air, as well as a host of other birds, plants and insects. people than it is about animals. Good tr ac kers do not necessarily make good guides. ZT: You are not a one-man show and you have trackers that accompany you. How many in your team when you go out on a walk?
It is imperative that this team works as a unit so if anything goes wrong we all know what to do. This is quite different to other countries where one guide is in charge of the entire walk, making it more challenging to control both guests and animals in tense situations. The Zambian way also offers a great forum to train guides for the future as there is no substitute for experience. ZT: Are there times when you see a guest and feel that they have not got the disposition to take a walk on the wild side? What do you do then? Garth: Every walk is different and caters to the guests’ needs and abilities. Guides need to be adaptable. Walking safaris are as much about the little things such as birds, tracks and flowers, as they are about walking into lions, elephants and other big game. ZT: What for you is the essence of a really good bush walk? Garth: I think it is about showing guests how nature fits and works together. Understanding the relation-
ships between the flora and fauna and being able to amaze guests with things they never dreamed were important, by encompassing all of their senses - smell, taste, sound, touch - so much of which can be missed on a drive. ZT: Advice for anyone planning a walking safari? Garth: Be well prepared; good boots, the right coloured clothing, binos, sunscreen and hat can help you avoid discomfort and allow you to enjoy the environment around you.
ZT: The Luangwa is obviously your home turf, give me one of your most memorable guiding moments here. Garth: Last year we did a walk where we saw everything, from lions hunting buffalo, a honey badger up a tree, roan antelope, fish eagles fighting in mid air, as well as a host of other birds, plants and insects. My guests were amazed that you could have such an incredible all-round experience on foot. One of my great joys is being able to blow my guests away and exceed their expectations.
CONSERVATION
Seeking a future for the king of beasts We return for a detailed look at Dr Paula White’s work on lions in Zambia By ZT Correspondent The Zambia Lion Project was born out of Dr Paula White’s research on carnivore species in the Luangwa Valley which began in 2003. The project’s goal is to assist Zambia Wildlife Authority in developing and implementing a rigorous, scientifically based management plan for lion populations in Zambia. Working in partnership with ZAWA, the Professional Hunters Association of Zambia and the Safari Hunters and Operators of Zambia, the Zambia Lion Project collects samples (photographs, teeth and DNA) from trophy lions taken each year, to build up a picture of lion populations nationwide. Scientists and trophy hunters share the common goals of longterm conservation of the species in the wild and the desire for sustainable numbers. While controversy persists over the value of sport hunting to conservation, management of extensive areas of land for wildlife often depends on revenues generated from hunting. “Many people do not understand how sustainable hunting of select individuals can contribute to conservation of a species,” said Dr White, who notes that in Zambia’s Game Management Areas, hunting safari operators engage in land stewardship that includes anti-poaching patrols and control of illegal human and livestock encroachment on wildlife areas, thereby protecting vast tracts of prime habitat adjacent to National Parks. In addition to protecting habitat and animals, hunting activities distribute crucial income and provide development aid such as boreholes, schools and clinics in remote villages. “For large carnivores in particular, it is imperative that the rural people who shoulder the everyday costs of co-existence with potentially dangerous animals recognize direct benefits as well,” said Dr White. Economic incentives derived from safari hunting of lions helps to promote tolerance of large predators that villagers otherwise seek to destroy as dangerous pests. In turn, it is the responsibility of the hunting community as well as the wildlife management authority to ensure that hunting of lions is done in a sustainable fashion. Zambia Lion Project’s research has contributed to Zambia Wildlife Authority’s completion of Zambia’s ‘Conservation Strategy and Action Plan for the African Lion’which marked an important step forward and demonstrated to the international community that Zambia is genuinely committed to long-term lion conservation.
Zambezi News
kariba & middle-zam TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
33
ADVENTURE
Canoeing the Zambezi River for Conservation A
t the beginning of this year, six daring ladies from Johannesburg decided that they needed a challenge. Michelle Diesel, Carine Fraser, Lyz Gomes, Edith Phillips, Jenny Reid and Sandra Venter are all supporters of Conservation Lower Zambezi (CLZ) who like an adrenalin rush and resolved to canoe the length of the Chiawa Game Management Area in the Lower Zambezi, from Kafue to Chongwe confluences, raising funds for conservation.
The endeavour took four days in total with Kanyemba Lodge, Mvuu Lodge (Glenn Goodall), Chongwe Safaris – Tsika Island and Chongwe River Camp kindly donating accommodation and guides as well as Edmund Farmer of Skytrails providing discounted flights. Braving hippos, crocs, and just trying to get the canoes all going in the same direction are the measures the ladies took to raise awareness and cash for CLZ. Poaching is on the increase in Lower Zambezi National Park (LZNP) and last year 24 poached elephant
CONSERVATION
The education programme aims to inspire and educate children aged 14 - 16 in conservation of their natural resources. It is astounding to learn that the majority of these children have never experienced the beauty of the National Park and often have only encountered elephants and hippo when they are threatening their crops or even their lives.
Training in the wilderness
PHOTO: CLZ
Boat group By Conservation Lower Zambezi
A group of schoolchildren spend time in the wilderness for education in conservation issues – for many, it is the first time to see wildlife other than as a threat. After more than 12 hours in the Conservation Lower
carcasses were found in the LZNP. As well as firearms being used by poachers hunting valuable ivory and bush meat, CLZ are witnessing a surge in the use of snares and a possible increase in poisoning, both horrible, silent, indiscriminate weapons resulting in painful deaths for innocent animals. CLZ is a registered Zambian non-profit society working in conjunction with the local Chiawa community and Zambia Wildlife Authority to support wildlife protection and education in the area.
Zambezi 4x4 truck all the way from Luangwa Boma in the Rufunsa Game Management Area to Base Camp on the eastern boundary of Lower Zambezi National Park, the first gaggle of school children to visit the CLZ education centre this year arrived noisily and ready for a shower! 24 pupils and four teachers spent three nights at the CLZ education centre learning about conservation.
At CLZ children learn about the wealth of biodiversity in the Lower Zambezi area and how important it is to all of our lives. The current threats to the environment such as deforestation and poaching are discussed and innovative solutions such as chilli fencing suggested. Above all the most effective and enjoyable parts of the trip are the game drives and boat cruises during which children experience the breathtaking scenery and environment usually reserved for tourists.
“Adventures for Love” is a project that started in 2011 and will continue to fundraise for various causes in bold ways! One of the fundraising events for CLZ was a breakfast at the Wanderers Golf Club attended by Piet Byleveld, who shared his interesting and challenging experiences of crime fighting in SA. The ladies have raised over $7,000 for CLZ with more sponsorship monies on their way. PHOTO: CLZ
By Sarah Davies
Canoeing Group at airport
In the evaluation form, Paul Nyasulu of Mankhokwe Basic School wrote:
To see more of the ladies adventure or learn more about CLZ please follow CLZ on facebook “CLZ” or check out the website www.conservationlowerzambezi.org.
AWARDS
Chongwe River House
“It is my view of wild animals that has changed. I used to think that animals are killers, destroyers and bad, but I know now that with proper handling animals are good things to live with.” This year the programme incorporates new lessons about understanding elephant behaviour and also a careers talk from local safari guides – which has been a great success, thanks to Lackson Tembo and Lawrence Mazele from Royal Zambezi Lodge. From 2011 to 2013 the Civil Society Environment Fund, an initiative of the Royal Danish Embassy and the Embassy of Finland in Zambia, is funding the majority of the CLZ Environmental Education programme. Visit www.conservationlowerzambezi.org
PHOTO:TOM VARLEY
Finalist for the 3rd time for Best Safari House Award. Chongwe River House has recently completed major upgrades with Gillie Lightfoot of Tribal Textiles in Luangwa
Renowned for breathtaking scenery and incredible wildlife, it's also home to one of the continent's top safari lodges
Chongwe River Camp | Chongwe River House | Kasaka River Lodge | Tsika Island Canoe Camp From award winning 5 star to rustic self catering – we are your complete Lower Zambezi solution.
Lusaka Office Tel: +260 211 841051/ +260 211 841052 Cell: +260 9 77 771316 / +260 9 74 773209 Email: info@chongwe.com / reservations@chongweriver.net
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
34 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Adventure
An amazing journey by kayak By Larry Norton
T
he lake is a beautiful and nostalgic place, etched in the mind and memory of many. Judd Krambergar, Luke Terblanche, Ben Norton (my fifteen year old son) and I, decided that during the holidays we would kayak the 300km from Andora Harbour to Milibizi. In Milibizi we loaded kit and kayaks onto the well known Kariba Ferry, ‘Sea Lion’ and settled down for the twenty four hour journey across the lake. Dawn brought some worrying wind and chop on the water as we docked. We were soon off aiming for Long Island, 15km away.
Judd and Luke experienced some balance and rudder issues and headed for Gache Gache to the east for a while but soon a rhythm developed. It was exhilarating to be on the water and doing it at last, after so much planning and packing. G usting wind was a worry but it subsided as we approached the island. Beaching amidst the waves, we were happy with the first crossing. Camp was set up, tea brewed and before evening, bream caught for dinner. The moon that night was spectacular and the mosquitoes, horrific. The next day we crossed to the Matusadona shoreline, greeted by a few elephant bulls. Whilst stopping on a
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SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR: SCHEDULED CRUISE DATES KARIBA - BINGA CRUISE DATES www.zambezitrader.co.zw; info@zambezitrader.co.zw (+263)773 021 203 ; 0772 601 875 ; 0774 343 855 85 Harare drive, Marlborough, Harare
Well known artist Larry Norton gives a personal account of kayaking the length of Kariba
PHOTO: Luke Terbalnche
Kayaking Kariba, Larry and Ben Norton
gravel island we watched some huge crocs slide off into the shallows. We back-tracked and went around on the deep water side. A long paddle of about 35km ensued to reach the beautiful Rhino Camp, where we were generously and unexpectedly welcomed in by Karl and Jenny Nobes. The next day an old elephant bull witnessed our departure towards Tashinga and the Ume river mouth. It was a short day’s paddle to Musango Camp, owned by good friends Steve and Wendy Edwards. With great kindness we were welcomed to this very special place. That afternoon Steve took us down the Musango creek. We fished beside two lionesses with cubs, a magnificent sight. The sobering sight of many large crocs in the inlets confirmed our instinct of paddling out in deep water. In the morning we paddled below the Bumi Hills Hotel. A large herd of buffalo spread out across the foreshore. Starvation Island passed by to our right as the rod I was trawling with slipped into the depths of the lake. Our routine award: ‘Idiot of the Day’, had a winner….. Paddling on we approached Partridge Island. Mirror smooth conditions and the
reflection of the protruding islands created an extraordinary atmosphere. The silence and solitude of the lake is like a journey into abstract thought. The haunting shapes of dead trees are reflected on the gentle swell, adding to the mystery. Often, horizon and sky merge….. surreal, as you float along disturbed only by the rhythmic dip and splash of the paddle. On reaching Weather Island we pulled into Honeymoon Bay. Despite the romantic name, it was inhabited only by one rather depressed looking Fish Eagle. A standard lunch of tuna, biscuits, and peanut butter and a lot of sweet tea followed. Another long crossing with a good tail wind took us 14km across open water to Mackenzie Point where we made camp. Judd’s warnings on the ominous horizon of cloud were dismissed as paranoia. However, the Prophet of Doom spoke true and we were lashed by wind, lightning, thunder and driving rain from 11pm until 4:30 am. In the roaring darkness, it lifted our spirits to observe the Prophet drowning in his collapsed tent. Revived only by whisky and coffee we dried our kit and then crossed the notorious Sengwa Basin.
Taking a route between an island and mainland we found our way blocked by pods of hippo. The only option was to paddle to the island and drag the canoes past those who maintained right of way. A circus ensued with a hidden hippo (still on the island), a goat herder, some goats and fleeing kayakers….. Wearily we reached a rocky, bush-covered Marker Island in the evening, for an uncomfortable night. Approaching Chete gorge with some trepidation we chose Mbeta Island for the night. Apart from spotting a Zambian dugout nearby with the spot light and a brief dousing of rain all went well. Reaching Kampaka Island that evening we had completed another arduous 35km paddle. Approaching Binga an incident occurred which Ben described “We had been paddling for about an hour after we left Marker island. As usual I was wearing my bandana and cap that had been on the floor the night before. I suddenly felt movement on my forehead and then my eyebrow, as I looked up I saw a bright orange 10cm long centipede looking at me right in the eye. I waited for it to crawl onto the peak of my cap then threw my
Luke Terbalnche, Ben Norton, Larry Norton, Judd Krambergar. Kayaking Kariba
cap off with it landing in the water. My dad didn’t know what was going on so went to pick it up and nearly got bitten himself! I learnt my lesson not to leave clothing on the floor and that a centipede is more scary then any of the big five!” Beyond Binga we completed another huge day and hacked out a camp on the rocky shore.The following day took us to an unnamed island 12km from Milibizi. Here food ran out and we were feeling the long kilometers. Day ten and we made the final, tired push for the end. Milibizi came into sight around a bend in the lake. Happily, we beached for the last time, at the Milibizi resort where Sara and our daughter Madeleine met us with mountains of food and drink. I was thankful and relieved that we had made it without incident. There had been immense humour amongst us all. It was an unforgettable privilege to do this trip with my son Ben, Luke and Judd.
www.marineland.co.zw
Your gateway to Kariba - Zimbabwe’s water and wildlife wonderland Houseboat charters, lake passenger & road transfers, speedboat hire, boat mooring, catering gas & fuel sales, ice & drinks supplies Contact Details Tel : 061 2845 / 2237 / 3115 Telefax : 3134 Bookings: bookings@marineand.co.zw Cell: 0712 209 631 or 0773923 500 | bookings2@marineland.co.zw Cell: 0773 923 516 Drinks Orders: orders@marinelnd.co.zw Cell: 0712 630 994 | Harbourmaster: harbourmaster@marineland.co.zw Cell: 0712 200 710 Accounts: accounts@marienland.co.zw Cell: 0772 333 520 or 0712 632 834 | General Manager: gm@marineland.co.zw
We run an efficient Road Transfer from Lusaka Airport to Marineland Harbour on comfortable Air Conditioned Buses
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 35
ANGLING
Weddings
Tiger time ahead!
Trapped in paradise
2012 Schedule
Kariba Ferries June 18
Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba
18 25 26 27
17 - 19 October By David Whitehead
28 29 30
July 2
PHOTO: Karen Lowe
Chloe and Jono Baker – married in paradise
pril was a month of great celebration at Bumi Hills Resort, set high on a ridge of the Matusadona range with spectacular views across Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe. There were four weddings that month including ours.
by white parasols on the red sandy beach with the blue lake waters whispering at the shore. Elephants attended the wedding, peacefully wading nearby and seeming not to pay much attention to the service. Friends and relatives came from far and wide- Australia, UK, Eire, Canada, USA and regionally.
My daughter Chloe married Jono in a ceremony shaded
We travelled across the lake on the houseboat Shikra where
By Susan Cottrell
A
joyful reunions and celebrations began. This set the tone for the three amazing days we spent trapped in Paradise at Bumi. The friendly, attentive staff ensured our comfort and set the wedding venue with minute attention to detail, ensuring that everything looked beautiful and everyone enjoyed the occasion. Several party people danced till dawn, when they watched the sunrise
beside the fire on the terrace where the cliff drops away to the distant shore. The day after, on a game drive, guests were lucky enough to see a croc attack in the water. The buffalo won the battle shaking the huge croc off his ear. All our guests continue to rave about the wedding in a spot which we are so lucky to have on our doorstep.
‘Chirping’ has already started and we are receiving a large number of enquiries through our website www.kitft.co.zw due to the success of the 50th Anniversary last year. The plan is to hit the ground running and we expect the 2012 tournament to be an event not to be missed Last year’s carnival atmosphere was provided by our sponsors, many of whom had products on show plus tented entertainment areas, keeping it all festive. KITFT aim to expand on this at this year’s event and have not yet closed sponsorship negotiations. The ban on pre-baiting and practicing from 06:00 hrs Monday 17 September through to 06:00 hrs Saturday 13 October 2012 is once again in place and has provided a level playing field for competitors. Website: www.kitft.co.zw
Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba
3 5 6 9 10
July 12 13 16 17 26 27
Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba
August 6 7 13 14 27 28 30 31
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PHOTOGRAPHY
How high can impalas fly?
Impalas, Lake Kariba
By Christopher Scott A photographer’s notes on observing impala crossing a short stretch of shallow water. How high can impalas fly? And with their eyes closed? One idle afternoon spent exploring the shores of our magnificent Lake Kariba I had the sudden and delightful opportunity to garner the answers to these questions first hand!
PHOTO: Christopher Scott
The lake had been steadily rising for some time, to the extent where the point on which I was staying had become an island. The water was only knee deep but this was sufficient to cause consternation amongst the resident herds of impala. The larger herds were feeding on the mainland during the day, something about the grass being greener on the other side no doubt, and returning to the
safety of the point for the night. Previously the rising water had not reached sufficient depth to cause concern, but this was about to change. Almost at the end of our game drive / exploration we noticed a large number of impala restlessly bunched up against the water on the mainland side of the newly formed island, reluctant to take the necessary steps to get across. Herd mentality kicked in; none were too eager to be the first across, despite some of the pretentious young bucks’ energetic attempts that brought them storming right to the edge of the water then reeling away at the last minute pronking in an attempt to hide their embarrassment.
LUXURY CRUISING ON LAKE KARIBA
After general milling and uncertainty, one decided that sundowner time was rapidly diminishing, and in a flurry of splashy leaps and bounds landed safely on the island and sauntered off. This was obviously the gun that needed to be fired and in an instant all were taking to the air, some with their eyes open, and some not! LUXURY CRUISING GREAT SUNSET VIEWS CONFERENCING UP TO 30 DELEGATES TOP DECK WITH BAR & SWIMMING POOL
Zimbabwe’s iconic destination on Lake Kariba reservations@bumihills.com www.bumihills.com +263 (0) 772 135 664
THE SOUTHERN BELLE HAS THREE DECKS OFFERING 21 EN-SUITE CABINS AS WELL AS A CONFERENCE ROOM FOR UP TO 40 PEOPLE, LOBBY, SUNDRY SHOP, RESTAURANT AND BAR, SWIMMING POOL AND TOP DECK WITH BAR. IDEAL FOR BOTH LEISURE AND BUSINESS CRUISES WITH SPECTACULAR VIEWS, STUNNING SUNSETS AS WELL AS A RANGE OF ACTIVITIES OR WONDERFUL RELAXING HOLIDAYS JUST SOAKING UP THE SUNSHINE. WHEN DOCKED AT THE BAY THE RESTAURANT ON BOARD THE SOUTHERN BELLE IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC; RESERVATIONS ESSENTIAL. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT OUR RATES OR BOOKINGS, PLEASE CONTACT US ON +260 211 254 605 OR EMAIL reservations@proteahotels.co.zm PLOT 517 SIAVONGA, LAKE KARIBA, ZAMBIA | TEL: +260 211 511 638 | FAX: +260 211 511 639 EMAIL: reservations@phsouthernbelle.co.zm | proteahotels.com/southernbelle
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Zambezi Traveller
TRAVEL
A memorable stay by the Zambezi River By Sandra Ann Alan-Lee
F
or those of you that love to travel I want to share a bit of our journey to the great Zambezi River, in Zambia. All of our games drives were great, Simeon our guide was so knowledgeable, patient and calm.Thank goodness because there were a couple of times I got a bit nervous around some of the wild African elephants. These graceful, HUGE animals were plentiful. The most memorable ride was the night we tracked the lions to the airstrip, and a nearby waterhole, a large pride.
Excerpts from a letter submitted by a very happy Zambezi Traveller. Two males, one was the old king, still very much in charge of his pride and the other was a young male. There were a couple of cubs and several females. Just incredible. At the waterhole we sat very still, in complete darkness and listened carefully to the sounds of the animals around us. The baboons started the alarm and within minutes both trees on either side of us came alive. Branches breaking; leaves crunching and baboons screaming at the top of their lungs running for their lives. The noise was so loud it was deafening.
My heart pounding, the hair on my arms standing straight up, I jumped on my husbands’ lap and grabbed Simeon’s arm, nearly cutting off his circulation. We could hear the brush ahead of us breaking off; this was the pride making its way through the bush. He turned on the headlamps and bursting out of the brush was one of the cubs chasing a baboon! The mother lioness let out a roar and the cub stopped in his tracks and walked back to his mom! We stayed until the whole pride had passed, or so we thought, as we headed back we ran into the young male, so we waited and listened. Within minutes the two male lions started roaring in unison, it was so loud it literally vibrated our entire bodies. That was an unbelievable, once in a lifetime, experience. We fished on the river and actually caught fish; my husband went canoeing, his favourite activity, he said it was incredible to be
PHOTO: NATALIE CLARK
Lioness and cub on the airstrip
sitting so low in the water with crocodiles on the shore not far from you, beautiful birds and hippos watching your every move. He also did the walking safari where they saw rhino and buffalo grazing. Just another thing to add to the ‘Awesome List’ and the night before we left he saw a
female leopard; it had been very illusive, but Simeon and Major kept tracking prints and success was the end result. He was thrilled. That concluded seeing the ‘Big Five’ for him!
Zambia and stay at the Royal Zambezi Lodge. I can promise you, it will be a trip of a life time. We will be back and we will be bringing friends and family with us.
If anyone wants to go to Africa, you MUST go to
To read the article in full go to www. zambezitraveller/destination/karibamiddlezambezi.com
CONSERVATION
Help us find the cheetahs of Zimbabwe Extraordinary Africa Royal Zambezi Lodge, an intimate family-owned property, is situated on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River on the edge of the unique Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia. The lodge offers the ultimate in comfort & luxury, with unrivalled game viewing accompanied by professional guides, a luxury spa and world-class fishing and fly fishing. Royal Zambezi Lodge - the epitome of the luxury safari experience.
www.royalzambezilodge.com
Email: reservations1@royalzambezilodge.com Tel: +26 (0) 979 486618
Recently Dr. Esther van der Meer has founded the Cheetah Conservation Project Zimbabwe (CCPZ). The first goal of CCPZ is to fill in the gaps in our knowledge of the cheetah population in Zimbabwe. The coming year CCPZ will be on the road carrying out an interview based survey in the northwest of Zimbabwe to find out where cheetahs occur and whether they experience conflict with humans. CCPZ has also set up a National ID data base in which they collect sightings and pictures of cheetahs from all over Zimbabwe. At first sight cheetahs might look the
same, however each animal has a unique set of spots. Based on these differences in coat patterns you can identify individuals. If you collect enough pictures from an area you are able to give an estimate of how many cheetahs there are and can sometimes even tell something about their life history, for example how old an animal is and how many cubs it had. Although the cheetahs in Zimbabwe form an important part of the largest cheetah population in Southern Africa, not much is known about their occurrence and the conservation challenges they face, especially from the northwest of Zimbabwe, an area encompassing most of Zimbabwe’s wildlife protected areas, and the Zimbabwe component of the
left in the wild this beautiful slender carnivore has officially been classified as vulnerable meaning they face a high risk of extinction in the wild.
PHOTO:HUMFREY GUMPO
By Hans Dullemont
Cheetah
Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area. More information is required in order to implement an effective conservation strategy because with fewer than 10,000 adults
If you have been lucky enough to see a cheetah somewhere in the Zimbabwe bush please let CCPZ know when and where you saw cheetah, how many cheetahs you saw and whether or not they had cubs and most importantly send us your pictures, these will be added to the National ID data base. This way you will be able to contribute to the conservation of this incredible spotted cat in Zimbabwe. You can send your pictures and sightings to cheetah@cheetahzimbabwe.org.
MANA POOLS KARIBA MATOPOS HWANGE
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 37
AWARDS
Two awards for Zambezi region Wild Zambezi and the Zambezi Society were double winners at the recent Zimbabwe Achievers Awards ceremony in London.
W
ild Zambezi was named winner of the 2012 Zimbabwe Achievers Tourism Award at a gala dinner held at the Grange Tower Bridge Hotel in London in April. Wild Zambezi promotes tourism opportunities to the middle Zambezi River and Lake Kariba areas. “We are truly proud!” said Director Sally Wynn, on receiving the award from John Berry, MD of the UK-based Zambezi Safari & Travel Company. “Thank you to everyone who supported our nomination and voted for us. We are delighted to be internationally recognised for the part we play in promoting tourism to Zimbabwe, and to our Zambezi area in particular.”
This year’s awards were a double bonanza for the Zambezi area. The Zambezi Society, a Zimbabwe-based non-profit organisation which has been working in wildlife and wilderness conservation in the Zambezi Valley for more than 30 years, won the Conservation Award at the same event. Wynn received the award on their behalf. “Conservation and tourism go hand in hand in the Zambezi region – each dependent on the other,” said Wynn. “We need to ensure that we keep the right balance between
a strong message about how special our area really is.”
PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER SCOTT
By ZT correspondent
The awards were initiated in 2011 by a group of Zimbabweans based in the UK.
Conservation Award - Sally Wynn and John Berry
the two, so that we conserve our magnificent wildlife and unique wilderness resources in a sustainable way, and ensure
Our very own Lady Jacqueline
ENJOY KARIBA WITH THE BEST
that they continue to attract international tourism into the future. The Zimbabwe Achievers Awards provide
The awards were initiated in 2011 by a group of Zimbabweans based in the UK. The winners are chosen by online vote and by a panel of key business and professional people, cultural leaders and eminent political figures. The awards seek ‘To recognise Zimbabweans who have pushed the limits against all odds to raise the Zimbabwean flag high, and
do both themselves and their fellow countrymen proud.’ They recognise ‘commitment to excellence, creativity, innovation and dedication of those Zimbabweans who have continued to expand on their talents and skill-set whilst celebrating their heritage.’ “Being nominated for an award brings with it the added benefit of morale boost, selfesteem and self-confidence,” said Conrad Mwanza, event director. “This inevitably reinforces commitment to excellence, creativity, dedication and innovation.” Visit www.wildzambezi.com www.zamsoc.org
Situated in the eastern basin of Lake Kariba on the banks of the Gache Gache River.
Comfortable Chalets with panoramic views. Tiger Fishing, Game viewing by boat or vehicle, guided walks, canoeing, sun downer cruises. Gache Gache is known for its abundant wildlife and is a birding paradise. Rates include all activities, full board and laundry. Cash bar. The lodge is accessible by boat, road and air. Please enquire and we will gladly arrange all your travel or transfer requirements to suit your individual needs.
zamt@flameofafrica.com / Tel: +27 (0) 31 762 2424
Linking Kariba and Victoria Falls
Sit back relax and let us do the driving Tel: ZIM +263 4 614 162-7 Tel: RSA + 27 21 556 6965 Email: karibaferries@zol.co.zw Skype: kariba.ferries 2011 SAILING DATES HAVE BEEN POSTED SEE WEBSITE www.karibaferries.com
Contact Details
Chapungu Safaris t/a Gache Gache Lodge 19 John Plagis Avenue, New Alexandra Park , Harare, Zimbabwe Tel: 00 263 4 745 717/745 762 Cell: 00 263 772 285 691 Email: bernie@chapungusafaris.co.zw Web: www.gachegachelodge.com / www.chapunguzim.com Skype: bernie.styles
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
38 Travellers Friend
Classifieds Accommodation
Accommodation Registered Tour Operators for Houseboats, Canoe Safaris, Tailor Mades. relax@warthogs.co.zw www. warthogs.co.zw 0712 201 733 0775 068 406 Tamarind lodges - Comfortable, Budget Self
Catering Lodges in Kariba E-mail - tamarind@zol.co.zw Tel - +263 61 2697 or +263 772 880868 GPS Reading S 16°31’28.6° E 028°49’19.5°
Warthogs Bush Camp, Kariba - Clean and Comfy Budget Accommodation for families, groups and individuals. Bar on the lakeshore serving meals all day every day. Splash Pool, Kid’s Play Area. DSTV.
Pagungwa Lodge, Breezes Road, Kariba.
Lodge with swimming pool & 4 bedrooms en-suite, fully serviced. Contact us for Rates etc. Garth - +263 772 877 083 Fiona - +263 773 194 088 E-mail f i o n a B @ c a s. co. z w
Zambezi Traveller
Advertise in the Kariba & Lower Zambezi Classifieds sonya@zol.co.zw +263 772 874 352 Sonya McMaster
Boating
Food Supplies
Rj Marine Services - Outboard Motor Service & Repairs by trained personnel. Stand 762 Chawara Kariba Contact: Rob - +263 61 2356 / +263 772 355 561 Chessa - 46’Monohull Steel boat fully equipped for
Sale or Share Option. Moored at Marineland, Kariba Contact: Garth - +263 772 877 083 Mcline Canvas - For all your manufacture & repairs
of all boating, Safari & outdoor living accessories. Contact: McLine - + 263 772 709 470 or +263 61 2627 Stand 740 Chawara, Kariba
Blue Waters @ Andora Harbour, Kariba.
We offer Beers & Soft Drinks on a Sale on return basis plus Ice & Fishing Bait. Contact: bluewaters@iwayafrica.com Tel: +263 61 2971 / 2972
Harbours Chawara Harbour - t/a C&D SUPPLIES
Suppliers of all Drinks, Ice, Bait, Fuel & Oil and the Best Biltong, Dry Wors & Chilli Bites in Zimbabwe. Contact - Colin or Debbie Cell - +263 774 143 064 Phone - +263 61 3278 E-mail - debsmac70@yahoo.co.uk
Hardware
Food Supplies
Endura Rubba Paints - For all your
Crispy Fresh - Visit our One Stop Shop! Suppliers of all Dairy, Beef, Pork, Poultry, Fresh Fruit, Vegetables & Dry Goods. All you will need for your Holiday to Kariba. E-mail - crispy@utande.co.zw Tel: +263 61 2880/3024/2592 or +263 773 921 687
requirements of Dulux Paints, Lubricants, Thinners, Resin, Fibreglass, Filters, Eezipool Products, V belts & accessories, Tandem lawnmowers, Eureka DIY and more Contact: Nikki - 0774 060 717 Tiri - 0775 965 547 Land Line - 061 2325
Restaurants Criselle’s @ Warthogs - Delicious meals available
at Warthogs Bushcamp, Powerline road, Kariba Contact Criselle - +263 772 358 432 or +261 61 2701
TRANSFERS Harare - Kariba (Zimbabwe) Livingstone - Lusaka (Zambia)
Contact: Tendai / Seke Phone/Fax: +263 6 3625 Cell - + 263 773 923500 or Cell - +263 61 3625
E-mail - kangomatendai@gmail.com hersovtours@gmail.com
Sheer Magic Houseboat - Kariba Zimbabwe
For a fantastic pontoon houseboat experience! Contact: Sonya McMaster +263 772 874 352 E-mail - sonya@zol.co.zw Thatching Grass
Thatching Grass Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell +263 (0) 777 560 856 or landline +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: derekdianawilk@mango.zw. Website: http..//thatchinggrasssuppliers.webs,com
Tours & Safaris Kariba Houseboat Cruises - Discover the magic of Kariba on one of our houseboats - Peregrine, Osprey or Shikra. Special rates on at the moment!!! Contact: Lynn or Cally Phone: +263 61 2923 Mobile: +263 (0) 774 578 622 Email: karibahouseboatcruises@gmail.com Website: www.karibahouseboatcruises.com Pesha Safaris - Zimbabwe - Houseboats, Canoe
Hersov Tours
Tours & Safaris
Safaris, Vic Falls, Botswana - Chobe, Delta, Tented Safaris. Zambia - Luangwa Bush Camps, Exclusive Lodges Contact us for all your Holiday Packages and personalised safari itineraries. Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba E-mail - pesha@mweb.co.zw Phone - +263 61-3121/2247/3181 Mobile – +263 772 763 916/8 Mopani Cruises - for all your incentive travel on
Houseboats & Catering, Lodges, Transfers & day trip bookings Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba E-mail - mopani@zol.co.zw or mopanicruises@gmail.com Phone - 00 263 613195 Cell - 00 263 772 856 319
Fishing , Canoeing , Game Drives, Game Cruises ,Rhino Tracking, Walking Safaris ,Dinosaur Fossils, Tonga Cultural Village, Sailing (morning, afternoon, and overnight available), Access by Air, Boat and Road. Reservations: +(263-13) 43358 Cell: +(263) 772 307 875 Email: musango@microlink.zm www. musangosafaricamp.com
MORE ONLINE
Stop Press Zimnavex results available on line. www.zambezitraveller.com/destination/ kariba www.zambezitraveller.com
The Z ambezi River is now officially online
gokariba.com Houseboats, Catering, Accommodation & Transfers
Experience a houseboat holiday with
DRIFTER and MAKULU HOUSEBOAT CHARTERS
Vans Harbour ,Kariba Email: gokariba@iwayafrica.com
Kariba, Zimbabwe
For This Is It & Nyati Houseboats, and many more! Contact: Kiara Hammond 0779 675 935 or office 0772 546 126
Phone: + 263 (0) 772 348 091 E-mail: kbeng@zol.co.zw
Sonya McMaster email: sonya@zol.co.zw Tel: +263 772 874 352
Harare
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on your way to the Zambezi
PHOTO:MANA MEADOWS
The avian art of seduction southern ground hornbill, rated on the IUCN’s Red Data List of Species as ‘Vulnerable,’ are birds we can’t afford to lose. Meet George – Zimbabwe’s sole Southern ground hornbill in captivity – and an endearing representative of his feathered brethren.
Brownie ChirwaWith George the southern ground hornbill
By Mana Meadows
B
e warned, if George offers you a shriveled piece of rotting meat, he’s trying to seduce you. Maybe it’s not the smoothest move, but with his striking sea-green eyes and sweeping black lashes, chances are he’ll succeed nonetheless.
It’s a tried and tested trick with southern ground hornbill. Day-old chicks and long-dead snakes are common offerings. “He’ll hide dead snakes in his nest for days, waiting for any young ladies to walk past. Then he’ll shove the snake through the fence at them as a love token. That’s his natural courtship behaviour in the wild,” said Josh Stafford, manager at Kuimba Shiri Bird Park where George lives. Ground hornbills are known for their charisma and intelligence – and their striking (if peculiar) beauty. Up close, George’s regal dinosau-
rian features belong in another age. His heavy grey beak, chipped and battle-scarred (from 30 years of shoving snakes through fences, perhaps?) is almost pompous in its weightiness. With his bright green eyes – always alert and always assessing – and his stiff haughty stride, he really stands out from the other birds. And this Bird Park favourite is fussy about who he befriends. Despite his slick approach with the ladies, he really only has eyes for his keeper, Brownie Chirwa, the Bird Park curator. Because George was hand-reared, he’s an imprint, which means he thinks he’s a person. He’s never met any other ground hornbills and so thinks Chirwa is his mate. “When George is holding a food morsel there will be a fight if someone tries to take it. But with me, he offers it up,” said Chirwa. “When I sit, he sits beside me. When we play, he’s gentle with me.
With the other guys, he bangs on their feet. I think he really likes me.” And his intelligence is obvious: “The main thing is the gates. If he gets out of his cage he can still go further into the bird park. He knows which gates to push and which ones to pull. Before we put a lock on his cage he could open his door by knowing which thread to pull!” Encounters with birds like George can change the way a person looks at wildlife and the environment. Kuimba Shiri is principally a rehab centre for birds but also functions as an educational centre where visitors have the opportunity to get close to special birds like George. Kuimba Shiri is 30 minutes from Harare CBD on the Harare – Bulawayo road. From Harare, turn left by the Turn Pike Wedzera Service Station. Email: birdpark@mweb.co.zw Visit www.kuimbashiri.co.zw
Boutique Hospital 24 Hour Emergency ICU Aviation Medicine Tr a v e l Va c c i n a t i o n C l i n i c Maternity Surgery M a l a r i a & Tr a v e l A d v i s o r y
24 Hr Hotline 0773 333 691 15 Lanark Road, Belgravia, Harare; Phone: +2634 700666/8 / 707072 / 705691 traumacentreharare@gmail.com
www.traumacentrehospital.com
“Woman’s Wellness Centre”
ARTS
This HIFA was high bar!
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PHOTOS:BAYNHAM GOREDEMA
Conservation
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(1) Hope Masike (2) Ishmael Lo (3) Edith weUtonga (4) Tumi and the Volume (5 ) Maria de Barros
By Elton Mjanana From 1st to 6th May, Harare was colourful with a rich texture of culture and expression. The festival has grown from the proverbial ‘strength to strength’ defying all odds with amazing reinvention and a breathtaking showcase. Dance, theatre, music with universally acclaimed companies and names like Follow Spot
Productions, Ziya Azazi Gri … Eshe, UBOM’s The Dogs Must Be Crazy, the dreamy Bed In Her Head, gravity defying Leo or the fun filled 24 Hour Theatre Challenge where witty and off-the-hook creative thespians won laptops in prizes. There is more in a packed-to-the-brim music programme with such highlights as Publish the Quest, Tumi and The Volume, Ismaelo, Oliver Mtukudzi, Maria de Barros, bass sensation Edith WeUtonga who is embarking on an East African tour as a direct result of her splendid performance at the
Telecel Main Stage and Hope Masike who leaves for a six month tour of Europe and the United States International poets joined the crème de la crème of Zimbabwean spoken word poets. Everywhere you turned in the Harare Gardens, First Street, Reps and 7Arts was an arts activity happening and it was HIFA! Thanks Hifa for a diverse, creative and well thought out programme, the memories are priceless.
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40 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
CONSERVATION
Operating on the wild side Our veterinary correspondent gives a glimpse into work in the world of wildlife. morning with foal forelimbs detectable and an enormously oedematous vulva. She was exhausted when we got the call and upon our arrival was still mobile but really too fatigued to be concerned about our preparations for darting her.
Restrained female giraffe prior to pot removal
By Jane Herriott
G
oing after your patient with a dart gun does veer slightly from a civilised chat and controlled examination in a sterile vet clinic room - but it makes for a much more remarkable consultation. There is no such thing as a cooperative patient in the wild; trying to get a comprehensive patient history
is always rather sketchy; and patience is definitely the most significant virtue. Our varied work takes us all over this beautiful Zimbabwean countr y, from mass-capturing animals and lifting them from troubled areas, to one-on-one treatment, and lots in between. We recently dealt with a dystocia case in a zebra mare. It was a mal-presentation, with the stripy lady found early one
Upon immobilisation there were three limbs visible, two fore and a hind as well as the muzzle... alas the foal was dead.There was quite a bit of effort and energy required to extricate the foal but we eventually won and after some administered treatment,woke the mare up. Then there was the call a few weeks ago about a giraffe with a pot on its foot... the second such case we’ve attended in as many years. Old pots and various crockery pieces are placed
on widely dispersed grave sites and so completely unsuspecting animals collect the pieces as they walk over the burial sites.One size of pot apparently fits a giraffe’s foot like a shoe! Although the pot had begun cutting into the back of the foot, just above the hoof, after appropriate treatment she has made a full recovery.
Cleanup campaign in the capital
By Christopher Scott Miracle Missions will be facilitating their monthly cleanup campaign in Harare in June in collaboration with the City of Harare and Environment Africa. The cleanup aims at collecting rubbish from the Avondale stream and shopping centre and will be a platform for the launch of the newly revived Recycling Association of Zimbabwe. A structure built entirely out of recycled materials will be unveiled at the event and will house ‘live
Whats On @ REPS
Booking at The Spotlight
Leading Ladies (comedy) 5th – 21st July
A sparkling comedy produced by Zane Lucas from Ken Ludwig On stage will be Musa Saruro, Zoran Zec, Ryan Lawrence, Chipo Chikara, Chloe Cattin, Philippa Johnston, Michael Bawden and Itai Gurira.
Tel: 263 4 885660 | Fax: 263 4 883214 | Email: masterangler@zol.co.zw
One particulary putrifying blesbok ewe on a baking February afternoon was a tad challenging as it was a race between the maggots, flies and us to get to what was left of the organs! We did manage to make a diagnosis and so move on with the work at hand.
CONSERVATION
Main Stage A – Z of Rock Now to 9th June Running on the main stage at present is The A-Z Of Rock, directed by Mario Ciampi and featuring a selection of hard rock hits from a live band and their singers.
Shop No. 53 Borrowdale Village
Wildlife post-mortem examinations (of which there are many) done in the field can leave much to be desired, depending on ambient temperature and time lapse since last breath, but finding the reason for the death is important.
National Ballet 25th – 28th July “Backstage” (ballet) 1- 4th August Theatre Upstairs
Table Manners (comedy) 14th – 30th June
Alan Ayckbourn’s superb comedy Table Manners, the first part of The Norman Conquests trilogy. It is directed by Gloria Prentice, back to Zimbabwe from Australia just to direct this show for Reps! On stage will be Sue Bolt, Fiona Garrity, John Dennison, Tim Harrap, Vanessa Vos and Kevin Hanssen. (preview night June 13)
Season of Zimbabwe Theatre 1st – 14th July
Travelling? Going Fishing? Email us your orders Bond Street Cnr The Chase, Mount Pleasant Shops
Tel: 04 336373/79 | Billy: 0772 116451 / | Email: bilsan@zol.co.zw Biff: 0772 265696 | Email: biff@yoafrica.com
A problem that is being addressed.
recycling’ where members of the community can view the recycling process first hand. The structure will also be a collection point for all recyclable materials and members of the public are encouraged to drop their household recycling off at the structure. Miracle Mission’s widely successful cleanup campaigns were initiated in the 2008/9 era. “The loss of life from the cholera outbreak, the illegal dumping and rubbish burning in our city, the littering that caused blockages and flooded roads, all motivated us to start our cleanup campaign,” said Sharon Hook, a director and operations manager for Miracle Missions. Miracle Missions is focused on sustainable solutions that bring together all the stakeholders in a community from the concerned
PHOTO: Christopher Scott
individual to local businesses, churches and schools. “It’s about sustainability, not just cleaning up,” said Hook. “We try to make people aware and responsible; it’s not just the role of the council to manage waste.” “Most household rubbish can be recycled.” said Hook. “Items such as glass, drink cans, paper, plastic wrapping, styrofoam, 2 litre and 5 litre bottles and batteries can all be responsibly recycled with little fuss or inconvenience. Wash any items such as styrofaom and plastic that have been in contact with food and stack them in a cardboard box until it is full.” It’s time for us all to ask ‘What can I do?’ or ‘What can my company do?’ to make a positive difference in our environment.” Website: hooknook@yoafrica.com info@environmentafrica.org
THE CODFATHER RESTAURANT
Is now open
Tel: 498021/3 for Bookings
Zambezi News
cahora bassa & tete TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
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DEVELOPMENT
Cahora Bassa to be owned by Mozambique Source: Club of Mozambique
T
he Cahora Bassa dam on the Zambezi River is “a foundation for the expansion of electricity infrastructures and for energy-intensive industries in our country”, declared Mo z a mbic a n President Armando Guebuza He was speaking at a banquet offered in honour of Portuguese Prime Minister Pedro Passos Coelho, a few hours after the two men had signed the agreement that will see Mozambique acquire 100 percent of Hidroelectrica de Cahora Bassa (HCB), the company that operates the dam, by 2014. Mozambique’s “energy security strategy”, Guebuza said, rested on taking advantage of “the vast and diversified potential” that the country possesses – this included hydropower, natural gas, coal and renewable energies.
photo: Gigi Guimbeau
Scenic Cahora Bassa
Since 2007 Mozambique has owned 85 percent of HCB’s shares, and the remaining 15 percent belong to Portugal. Cahora Bassa, which was built when Mozambique was a Portuguese colony, is one of the world’s largest hydroelectric dams and has capacity to generate 2,015 megawatts of electricity.
Mozambique’s “energy security strategy”, Guebuza said, rested on taking advantage of “the vast and diversified potential” that the countr y possesses – this included hydropower, natural gas, coal and renewable energies.
“These projects will allow increased availability of electricity to respond to the needs of economic growth and social development in the short, medium and long term”, he stressed. Surplus power will be exported, which will contribute to developing the energy
market in the region and in the continent. Guebuza also stressed the importance of the constriction of the new “backbone” of the Mozambican electricity grid – a new power transmission line from Tete province to Maputo “which will be determinant in distributing the power produced in the Zambezi Valley”.
The Portuguese company REN (Redes Energeticas Nacionais), which operates the Portuguese national grid, will be one of the shareholders in the company that is to be set up to manage the new transmission line. www.clubofmozambique.com
Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo, Tete TEL +258 252 20443 CELL ++258 82 8723734 email rob@tetefitmentcentre.com
Firestone and Bridgestone tyres Tyre Fitment Wheel Balancing Puncture repairs Right behind Major Drilling
w w w. r u s h t a i l . n e t Rushtail Construction (PTY) LTD P.O.Box 19686 Nelspruit, 1200 Mpumalanga South Africa Tel: + 013 744 3365 Tel: + 013 744 3392
Rushtail Construçoes LDA. Rua Velha da Mozal No: 2334 Bairro Mozal Djuba, Matola Moçambique Tel: + 2582171730303 Tel: + 2582171730304
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
42 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
DEVELOPMENT
Taxation in Mozambique
T
he Mozambican ta x system is relatively complex and of ten poses problems for new and existing investors. A good understanding of the tax system is necessary to ensure that companies can benefit from any exemptions which may apply, as well as to ensure compliance. The current tax system is the result of a reform initiated in 1998 that has the following main pillars:
3 Tax Pillars Value Added Tax - VAT (IVA) is an indirect tax on expenditure. VAT is applied at the rate of 17% on the supplies of goods and ser vices undertaken within the country, including imports. IRPC (Imposto sobre o Rendimento das Pessoas Colectivas) is a Corporate Income Tax. The rate is 32% with cer tain exceptions. IRPS (Imposto sobre o Rendimento das Pessoas Singulares) is an Individual Income Tax. Rates are calculated based on a scale of earnings, with reductions for married people and those with numbers of dependents.
These direct taxes replaced the income tax system established in 1968, which was regulated by the Code of Income Tax.
The tax system can be complex and investors are recommended to seek qualified professional advice to ensure that they are compliant.
TOURISM
The many faces of the Zambezi
A diagram of the taxes included in the Mozambican tax system can be found on the Zambezi Traveller website in the Cahora and Tet section
In addition there is a municipal tax system, regulated by the Municipal Tax Code, which applies to any company operating in an area designated a municipality. The National System of Social Security (INSS) is not technically defined as a State tax as it is not revenue generated by the State. This is revenue earmarked to finance the National System of Social Security. It is an entitlement to future social benefits by the contributors and other recipients of the system. The following compulsory contributions apply: the cost to the employer is four percent, while the cost to the employee, The chargeable basis of these rates is as follows: Basic gross salary of the employee; Bonuses, commissions and other remunerations paid on regular basis; Management awards.
Email: acis@acsimoz.com
withheld and charged by the employer on the payroll, is three percent. Both national and foreign employees fall within the scope of the Social Security System, as do any residents within Mozambique, who are employed in an economic activity, even if the work is on a part-time basis, including remunerated probation and trainee periods. For foreign employees the contribution is waived if they can present proof that they contribute to a social security system in another country. The tax system can be complex and investors are recommended to seek qualified professional advice to ensure that they are compliant. ACIS provides a comprehensive series of guides to the tax system in English, free of charge from www.acismoz. com and the site also includes a database of reputable professionals including lawyers, and auditors to assist companies with tax matters.
Tel– 0258 23 325 997
Visit www.acismoz.com
ACIS is a Mozambican business association offering services such as information, advocacy and networking, through the medium of English, to existing and potential investors.
For the tax diagram view online on the Zambezi Traveller website
ACIS – Better Business Together www.acismoz.com
MORE ONLINE http://www.zambezitraveller. com/destination/cahora-tete
The Zambezi River entering Cahora Basa Dam
By Gigi Guimbeau In Tete where I live, the mighty Zambezi is the backdrop; in fact it is what makes a hot, dusty, overpopulated place pleasant to live in. Having sundowners and dinner at Cigana’s one easily forgets the hustle and bustle whilst taking in the Zambezi River with an impressive view of the bridge. Venturing further afield, I have been lucky enough to discover the beautiful landscape that surrounds this busy place, and more of the Zambezi River’s charms. Whilst accompanying my husband on a business trip, I once found myself at a spot where the Zambezi flows into Cahora Bassa; what a special place with incredible birdlife. Recently, I was invited to spend some time at the newly opened Casindira Lodge. It is a fairly long drive if one sticks to the speed limits (please note there are speed traps), and four-wheel-drive is needed towards the end, but the drive
PHOTOS: Gigi Guimbeau
By ACIS
Panoramic views from Casindira Lodge
A Tete resident reflects on the recreational opportunities of being near the Zambezi River. is certainly worth it. This lodge is situated on a peninsula off the south bank of Cahora Bassa. It has been built on golden sandstone cliffs, offering panoramic views of the lake and north bank. The dining room, bar and swimming pool area have been built for enjoyment of the stun-
ning views at every turn, with fish eagles gliding by at eye level. Casindira is a very useful resource for the burgeoning businesses of Tete. At the beginning of May we had a family reunion on a houseboat on Lake Kariba and, yet again, could not help being struck by the fact that the same river offers these two big lakes, so different but both with beautiful charms.
Enquiries/Reservations to: Tel: +258 25 222 333 Fax: +258 25 222 318 Cell: (English) +258 82 306 6042 Cell: (Port) +258 82 873 6196 Email:casindiralodge@gmail.com
Comfortable tranquility by the lakeside Twin rooms with own veranda, overlooking the lake. Full board rates and cash bar Fishing trips, crocodile farm & good birding Two speedboats for fishing and 6 berth houseboat Combination lodge and houseboat trips possible Daily direct flights JHB-Tete return Road transfers from Tete to the lodge Facilities for corporate meetings and small workshops/training sessions
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
Zambezi Traveller
COMMUNITY
Travellers Friend 43
PHOTOGRAPHY
Securing the future with sand dams Join Tete’s photo club By Jon Vinducich
FACT FILE
PHOTO: Gigi Guimbeau
S
The veiw from Dona Patricia, cruising on the Zambezi
PHOTOS: Jon Viducich
Sand Dams are barriers typically constructed from reinforced concrete or stonemasonry across seasonal sand rivers. They collect and retain water and sand, creating permanent or semi-permanent aquifers and water sources for people, animals and small-scale agriculture. Learn more at www.sanddam.org Conservation Agriculture is an agricultural production system known by a variety of names, initially developed in the late 1980s in Zimbabwe by Brian Oldrieve, who termed it “Farming God’s Way.”The system emphasizes various techniques for soil and water conservation, and is especially appropriate for small shareholders. Learn more at www.farming-gods-way.org To learn more about CCM’s water and food security work in Mozambique, contact the national programme coordinator at sergioccm.zezito@gmail.com.
Kapenta rigs going off at sunset for the nights catch - Cahora Bassa
PHOTO: Peta Bennett
Sand dam in Chigamanda
PHOTO: craig vandeleur
and dams, subsurface structures to capture and store water in seasonal rivers, are being used to improve water and food security in drought-prone areas marked by chronic hunger. As a native of the United States’ Pacific Northwest, a region known for its incessant rains and verdant vistas, my 2009 relocation to one of the hottest and driest regions in southern Africa was a rather startling experience. I’ve spent the past three years based in Tete, partnering with the Christian Council of Mozambique and rural communities to develop water and food security solutions for drought-prone areas marked by chronic hunger. To this point, our work has primarily centered on the construction of sand dams, a unique, subsurface structure used to capture and store water in seasonal rivers, along with subsequent training in conservation agriculture and garden projects. My colleagues and I have joined with communities to build 37 dams so far, between Tete and the neighbouring Manica Province, enabling many hundreds of families to produce vegetables locally during the region’s cooler dry season, and many thousands to water their animals and fetch water for domestic use throughout the year. While plenty of mistakes have been made in the past years, and many hard lessons learned, I’m incredibly excited about the changes happening in Tete these days. As seems to be the case with most development work, the biggest obstacles to long-term results have been the deep-seated beliefs and attitudes held by the local stakeholders – rural farmers, the government, CCM, and myself – but I’ve seen significant, positive shifts in all of us. Communities are now approaching us to initiate new partnerships, the local government has become a strong supporter of our work, and the individual projects started in
Fishing in the mighty Zambezi might reap larger rewards, but the smaller fish in the mountain rivers sill bring a smile to a fisherman’s face
By Gigi Guimbeau
Past CCM food security projects in Tete and Manica were funded by the Canadian Foodgrains Bank. www.foodgrainsbank.ca
Photography enthusiasts form a club and find subjects in Tete, Mozambique. Water is certainly our lifeline and a refreshing delight in Tete Province. This area would definitely just be a dusty, chaotic madness without the mighty Zambezi river, the many outlying rivers and Lake Cahora Bassa close by.
Jon’s work is supported by the Mennonite Central Committee. www.mcc.org
Visit http://www.snappingafrica.blogspot.com/
Tete and Manica Provinces have resulted in the creation of a national water and food security programme with big plans to expand to new regions of the country. As a water engineer passionate about appropriate, sustainable development, it’s been a joy and a privilege to work in Tete. I still haven’t gotten used to the heat, I’ll admit, as my cold weather roots run deep, but the friendships I’ve formed with a fantastically diverse group of people, and the incredible transformations I’ve witnessed in so many communities, have impacted me deeply. I’ll be finishing my contract soon and heading back to the States, but, as my friends often remind me, Africa is in my blood now, and it will be very, very difficult to stay away.
Cigana Restaurant
24hr SERVICE
aste of moz e the t amb t a r b iqu e l e ce
A stunning location on the banks of the Zambezi where one can enjoy tasty Portuguese cuisine with the gentle sound of Latino music in the background. Convivial Bar | Good Music | Live Entertainment | Functions
KASEKOME TA K E AWAY
Our 1st Anniversary!
Everyone knows there is nothing like a good peri peri chicken available for you any time you need it. We cater for small or large functions. Av da Independencia, Opposite FNB - Tete Phone: Tel: 84 7440376 / 82 27 64 340/ 84 71 38 911
It is very easy to find us, cross over the bridge, heading to Zambia/Malawi, turn right immediately after crossing, then turn left and follow the road along the Zambezi River, Cigana is approximately one kilometer down the road.
+ 258 846596806 | bebemissanga@hotmail.com
BA
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If you are looking for an exciting fishing experience or purely for a bit of R & R, we have the ideal destination for you... Well presented Self Catering Chalets & Rondavels | Camping Area | Fishing | Bird watcher paradise | Boat Hire
Information & Bookings: Ph: +258 844085785/+258 848978465 Email: bookings@moringabaylodge.com
www.moringabaylodge.com
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
44 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Business
Tete – the phoenix rises of your working career in this part of the world?
T
FvH: Laying the foundation stone for Universal’s tobacco factory below the Carroeira mountain on the outskirts of Tete. I believe this was the catalyst that kick started Tete as an important economic center, and it was a moment of great personal satisfaction as it was the product of hard work and dedication from a fine team of people in a fairly in hospitable place.
ete is punted as the fastest growing economy in the world. These are exciting times for Mozambique, a nation that has struggled through civil war and being listed as the poorest country in the world a short ten years ago. Zambezi Traveller interviewed long-term resident Frank von Habsburg to discuss life in this now vibrant place, and his new business venture. Von Habsburg has worked in all the major industries in this area; kapenta fishing, tobacco and most recently mining. He played a pivotal role in the set up of each of these sectors. ZT: How long ago did you come to Tete and what brought you here? FvH: I came to Tete nearly 17 years ago on a bus called ‘Transporte Jesus’ all the way from Maputo, where I had met one of Cahora Bassa’s pioneering kapenta fishermen who
PHOTO: Gigi Guimbeau
Frank Von Habsburg
desperately needed help with his business. ZT: Did you ever imagine that Tete would be the economic hot spot that it is today? FvH: Not in the least. In 1995 Tete was one of Mozambique’s backwaters, a town boasting one traffic light and one state bank. It was a transit place to avoid rather than do business in. I remember my
neighbour drilling a borehole in Matema as the state water company was incapable of supplying drinking water, and hearing him curse as he hit brackish useless ground water after drilling through a coal seam. It never registered that we were sitting on this vast mineral resource. ZT: Can you share with ZT the most memorable moment
ZT: Tete records some of the hottest temperatures on the planet and to the casual observer may not appear to be the most appealing place to live. You have been here for years; what do you do for recreation? Do you actually like living here? FvH: Even more so now as open cast mines crop up everywhere. I still find the Zambezi River is one of my favourite places to be, in my little boat, fishing rod in one hand and a cold beer in the other, with family and friends. You make your own entertainment;
there is a captive community of people who make a great effort to organize events, competitions and gatherings. You make your own fun. It takes your mind off the furnace temperatures.
problems. I must just not forget to charge them…
ZT: These are exciting times for you now. You have set up a business consultancy giving people access to your years of experience in Mozambique. Are your company’s services directed at new investment or are you in the market to help businesses that might be struggling with the system?
FvH: Have interminable patience, don’t take short cuts, and avoid paying bribes.
FvH: Since the word has got out, we have been approached by a number of foreign companies wanting to establish themselves in Tete from scratch, but amazingly an equal number of established companies have asked us to assist them as a result of dissatisfaction with existing service providers and overall frustration with government departments. I have a captive market, and I feel a bit like a doctor fixing people’s
CASA BRANCA LODGE
Relax by the tranquility of the Zambezi
Affordable accomodation and great meals.
DONA PATRICIA RIVER CRUISES
For wonderful cruises on the mighty Zambezi. Also offers taylor made cruises to suit clients requirements. These could include an overnight cruise, a day cruise to the wonderful Boroma Mission, a 5 day cruise to the coast or just a fantastic sundowner cruise with spectacular sunset panoramas.
Come and enjoy a luxurious dining experience Nicolette +258 847492380 Address: Zambezi North Bank, Tete Cross over the bridge, heading to Zambia/Malawi, Turn right immediately after crossing, Turn left, follow the road along the Zambezi River, find us approximately 1.5 kilometers down the road.
Tel: +258 848435655 Email: jan.dekock@telkom.za.net / zambezelda@gmail.com
ZT: What is the single most important piece of advice that you would give to someone thinking about investing in Tete or Mozambique?
PHOTO: Gigi GuiMbeau
By Frances Jackson
ADVENTURE
There’s more to Tete than you think By Gigi Guimbeau Tete is full of surprises. My camera is my way of capturing images of Tete. An evening interlude aboard a dhow enabled me once again to enjoy life along the Zambezi River, part of the Tete experience. This particular dhow, the Dona Patricia, sailed from Vilanculous to Tete and in the 10th issue of the Zambezi Traveller we will feature the wonderful adventure of Debbie Killoran (featured in the Amazing Business Women of Tete ZT issue 8) and Jan De Kock. For something special, have a long and lazy lunch at Café Del Rio and then hop aboard Dona Patricia and enjoy the sunset and the pleasure of living up close to the Zambezi River.
... Tele : +258 82 509 4300, +258 84 383 6593 | Email : info@prointelafrica.com | Web : www.prointelafrica.com | ProIntel Africa, Avenida Independencia, Box 84, Tete, Mozambique 50100 | t
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
Zambezi Traveller
Angling
NEWS
The great Zambezi Shark
M
He had been fishing the Zambezi for two years, and ‘something’ had been taking his bait and swimming towards open water. It was stripping lines and getting away. The debate has been going on for years in the local community as to what is so strong (and cunning) to strip a 50 lb braid. The general consensus was that it must be a shark but no sightings have been reported in more than two years, so the speculation has been rife. That evening, Guthrie told his fellow fishermen, “Tomorrow, I’m catching that ‘something.’ I don’t care if it’s a Vundu or Tiger, but tomorrow is my day.” Everybody laughed, but we packed our trawling rods instead of our spinners, considering the mission of the morning. May Day dawned and it was spectacular - it wasn’t too hot or windy, the water was clear, and the spirits were high. As instructed by Skipper Ian we set up our rods and began our journey upstream, starting just below the bridge. We quickly cast our rapalla’s, but Ian used his weapon of the day - live bait! He had loaded
PHOTOs: Tracy Edwards
On Monday, 30 April, Ian Guthrie was at work, but was, as usual, contemplating his next fishing expedition on the coming May Day holiday.
Ian Guthrie; May Day celebrations on the Zambezi River, Tete brings an angling surprise, the elusive Zambezi Shark
his hook with a tiger and cast far out behind the boat. We started trawling and had barely passed under the bridge when we thought our lines were not trawling correctly. Two of us reeled in and got ready to cast again but then the excitement began. As Ian was reeling in he realized that he had something on his hook! He had felt a strong tug but because we were still below the bridge he really had not expected to catch the mystery menace. He continued to reel in and much to our amazement the head of a Zambezi shark emerged from the water! The fight continued for about five minutes, with much excitement and movement on the boat but the greatest moment was when the mythical Zambezi Shark was landed! Post-catch, the amazement still lingers as we contemplate May Day.We talk about it often and the photos have circulated to the non-believers, but we were there and we take away the memories of one of the most adventurous catches of our lives – the Zambezi Shark!
FACT FILE
Zambezi Shark
Some facts and figures on the Zambezi shark Charcarhinus leucas in African freshwaters. By Olaf Weyl, South African Institute for Aquatic Biodiversity The Zambezi shark is also known as the bull shark and occurs in the warmer oceans throughout the world. Zambezi sharks prefer inshore waters and, unlike many other sharks, can tolerate freshwater allowing them to swim up rivers. They can penetrate considerable distances and Zambezi sharks and in addition to Guthrie’s recent catch in Tete Zambezi sharks have been recorded from below Cahora Bassa in Mozambique, the Lower Shire River in Malawi, the Save-Runde junction in Zimbabwe and up the Limpopo to the Kruger National Park in South Africa Zambezi sharks are born at a length of about 75 cm and grow very slowly. They mature after about 20 years when they have reached a length of more than 2 meters. After a gestation of 10-11 months females bear 6-13 live pups. This is generally in summer. The largest Zambezi shark known
to science was caught in 2009 in the Breede River in South Africa and was more than 4 meters long and weighed an estimated 550kg. The longest recorded journey of a Zambezi shark was a fish that was tagged in the Breede River by the South African Shark Conservancy and swam 2000 km to Bazaruto in Mozambique in two months.
mum 35,000 tons of coal has fallen from 35 to two days after the opening of the provisional terminal built especially for that purpose at the port, said José Otoni, of Vale Moçambique.
United Kingdom plans to continue funding Mozambique The United Kingdom plans to continue providing funding to Mozambique, according to assurances given in London by Prime Minister David Cameron in an audience with Mozambican President Armando Guebuza at the end of a three-day visit.
By Tracy Edwards
ay Day this year was a day that will always be remembered as the Great Zambezi Shark day for these Tete residents.
Travellers Friend 45
Two Rhinos killed in Sabie Game Park Mozambique Sad news from Sabie Game Park Mozambique. They had two rhino on the property for a couple of weeks. The Rhinos were left unguarded for a few hours while moving units around and were never seen alive again.
World first crossing of the lost rainforest of Mabu - secret compass expedition to Mozambique This September a team of intrepid adventurers, will be led by Tom Bodkin, an experienced adventure guide, will attempt a world first traverse of a lost rainforest; Mount Mabu, in Zambezia Province, Mozambique. The journey will be exploration in its purest form, no one knows what lies ahead on the route they plan to take
Ireland supports Mozambique in minimising effects of climate change Ireland plans to provide the Mozambican government with 5 million euros to help the country adapt to and minimise the effects of climate change, under the terms on an agreement signed Monday in Maputo.
Time taken to load coal at port of beira drops from 35 to two days The time taken to load ships with a maxi-
Read more Mozambican news on www.clubofmozambique.com
FUCHS LUBRIFICANTES Agora a venda em Tete
Oleos para Motores Oleos de Transmissão Oleos Hidraulicos Massa Lubrificacão Fluido de Transmissão Automático Oleo fora de Bordo Oleo de Travão Oleo dois Tempo
Zambezi sharks are predators which feed on fish, crustaceans, turtles, marine mammals and birds. Because of their slow growth and late maturity they are vulnerable to exploitation and are IUCN red-listed as near-threatened. To read more on these fascinating fish please consult: Heemstra P., Heemstra E. 2004. Coastal Fishes of Southern Africa. NISC, SAIAB. 488p. or visit the South African Shark Conservancy website at www. sharkconservancy.org/publications.html
...styling
Atrás de Major Drilling, E.N.7, Bairro Matundo, Tete Email: donald@fuchsmoz.com Cell : +258 82 509 3330
CLM Transport Lda specialises in the transport of containerised and dry bulk cargoes throughout South Africa, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Zambia and Malawi. We pride ourselves in building strong relationships and being your business partner rather than your supplier. Brendan: + 258 82 509 3930 | Thom: + 258 82 305 7711 Email: info@clmtransport.com
www.clmtransport.com
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
46 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Know Your Trees
A visit to the Zambezi River Delta Our consultant botanist explores the Zambezi delta where few travellers are privileged to go.
T
he Zambezi River rises quietly and secretly in a swamp forest at an altitude of 1500 m. After travelling 3 540 kms through six countries it reaches the Indian Ocean forming a delta. The four main channels of the delta, Mikambe, Kongone, Luabo and Timbwe, all have a sand bar obstructing the entrance. There is a fifth one, Chinde, further north which is the branch used for navigation.
I was privileged to join the Plant Specialist Group (PSG) from Mpumalanga, South Africa, on their expedition to the delta. We chose to go to the Luabo Channel as this was the one where Livingstone and Kirk entered the Zambezi River in 1858 at the start of Livingstone’s Second Expedition. Our party of 14 travelled in three small boats with enough fuel to get us the 97 kms to the delta and back to Sena Sugar Estate upriver at Marromeu. Because of the fuel there was very little room for anything else, other than a tiny tent, a small box of food and some water. It took us most of the day to get to our destination. For the first part of the journey there was little in the way of riverine vegetation other than grass on top of vertical banks. Because
of fluctuating water levels, channels are gouged out of the deep alluvial soils resulting in steep banks which are continuously falling into the river. In the quieter side channels trees have been able to establish themselves and we were able to spend a little time exploring one channel. The trees were strictly riverine such as Syzygium barotsense, palebark waterberry, frequently seen along the river banks and islands above Victoria Falls. There were also species usually thought of as coastal trees and often considered to be ‘on-theedge-of-mangroves’ species; those able to tolerate some salinity, such as Barringtonia racemosa, powder-puff tree, sometimes called brackwater mangrove and Hibiscus tiliaceus, lagoon hibiscus, also known as freshwater mangrove.
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(1) Black mangroves, (2) Mangrove fern (3) White mangrove, mangrove-apple
About 20 kms from the sea it was very exciting to find one of our objectives, Pandanus livingstonianus, the screw-pine. There they were ‘looking like church steeples’ just as Kirk had described them 150 years ago. On our return trip we came across a flock of 11- 15 palm-nut vultures in a screwpine close to the bank and were able to get a good view of these rare birds.
Further on there were areas on the bank that were a complete tangle of climbers such as the sea-bean, Entada rheedii, twiners including Mucuna gigantica, a close relation of the dreaded buffalo-bean, and occasional palms sticking out of the top. These palms included the West African oil palm, obviously introduced at some stage and now naturalized, as is the coconut palm, Cocos nucifera which originates in Polynesia and probably arrived centuries ago, whether by man or sea.
As we got closer to the sea we started seeing mangroves. There was the most amazing stand of trees looking for all the world as though someone had established a eucalyptus plantation. We subsequently realized that they were probably Bruguiera gymnorrhiza, black mangrove, forming a pure colony. We camped on a wide beach on the north side of the estuary. Bulk sale of Meat and Chicken Products
Thee Deli
We stock Meats Prosciutos Salamis Variety of Cheeses (Fresh & Smoked Mozzarella, Blue Cheese, Mature Cheddar) Olive Oils Salmon (Fresh & Smoked) Anchovies Various Seafoods Artichokes Pickled bringels Mushrooms Onions Peppers Ostrich or Springbok Carpaccio Biltongs Cheese Grillers Smoked & Plain Spare Ribs Sushi Fresh Vegetables & Fruits Fresh Mozzarela and Fresh Milk (By Order). We provide a delivery service. Cell: +258 843718940, Tel: +258 21 252 2 3308, Fax: + 258 252 23308/7 Email: gratsie2002@yahoo.com Address: Avenida da Independencia #926
Park Inn Hotel
Rio Tinto Sign Zambia Rd Tete
Tete Rd Standard Bank
BSI STEEL
Malawi Rd
Alfandega
The top of the beach was strewn with huge logs, now bleached by the sun, dumped there by the tremendous floods of caused by Cyclone Ellene. The logs were useful for sitting on,there having been no room in the boats for luxuries like chairs, nor for that matter for mattresses. All there was between me and the sand was the canvas floor of the tent. I did manage to sleep eventually, but woke very early, got up and wandered along the beach towards the mouth. We were there during neap-tides and the sand bar calmed the waves.The water looked so inviting and, being far away from the camp, I slipped off my clothes and took a dip in the wonderful, balmy seawater. It was just magic. After breakfast we went for a walk through an area of trees. The mosquitoes were appalling. Fortunately out on the
beach where we were camping there was enough of a breeze to keep the mosquitoes away. After smothering ourselves with lashings of insect repellant we were able to keep them at bay and explore the area which is periodically inundated by the sea during high spring tides. It was most interesting and exciting to see various species of mangroves, trees which previously I had only read about. There had been a misunderstanding about who was carrying fresh water, with the result that although there was water everywhere there was not a drop to drink. Some fishermen arrived offering to sell us their catch; we enquired as to where we could get fresh water. One man assured us he could bring us some and off he went with a container. It was four or five hours later when
While we were relaxing after lunch some youths came by with green coconuts they had collected much further along the beach. I bartered a small tin of bully-beef and a box of matches for a coconut and persuaded them to open it for me. The coconut being green, the flesh wasn’t very thick and wasn’t very exciting, but the coconut milk was pure nectar. It was decided that we had enough fuel to cross the channel and visit the inviting inlet on the other side. There were Avicennia marina, white mangrove, on the outer edge and further back and further along Sonneratia alba, mangroveapple. Also exciting to find was the mangrove fern or golden leather fern, Acrostichum aureum growing on the bank in front of the trees. I have seen this fern before, next to a salty spring near Chiredzi in the south-eastern lowveld of Zimbabwe where it surprisingly occurs. Perhaps Chiredzi was once by the sea? The next day after another early, early dip, it was sadly time to pack up and return to Marromeu which we did without incident, other than running aground on an occasional hidden sandbank. It was the end of a wonderful trip and for me a once in a lifetime experience. Zambezi Traveller will return with Meg to the Delta in the next issue.
LA BELLA ITALIA Specialists in Pasta Dishes & Pizzas Raviolis, pastas with salmon, Carpaccio, Tiramissu & cheese cake. We have the best pizza's in town. Our food is fresh lean and tasty. A delicacy is our Panzerrotti Rossi & Funghi (pasta with dried Mushrooms). Cell: +258 828 338 942 / +258 848249056 / +258 824005820 / +258 843718940 Tel: +258 21 252 2821, Fax: +258 252 23308/7 Email: gratsie2002 yahoo.com Address: Avenida Eduardo Moldlane, Tete - Almost adjacent to Home Centre
We cater for private functions as well and can alter our menu to cater for various requirements
Housing
Dirt road leading to Park Inn Hotel and Rio Tinto Project Office
Kitoko Trading
PHOTO: Meg Coates Palgrave
By Meg Coates Palgrave
he returned with fresh water. Goodness knows where he had been and thank goodness for the water.
Ri Tinto Project Office
We are in our brand new warehouse in Chingodzi and invite all our customers to come and visit us in our new premises. Our new warehouse will allow us to offer you a wider range of stock and an even more satisfying service experience. We offer cutting and bending services, custom made roof sheeting as well as a wide variety of steel including reinforcing bars and mesh, angles, structural steel, plate and sheets as well as cutting & grinding media and welding rods. For all your steel needs, come to BSi, your steel supply partner in Tete!
Contact: Vania Monti Tel +258 84 322 0335, email: vania.monti@bsisteel.com
zambezi backpage
Zambezi Traveller
Hi,
I am living in Vic Falls Zimbabwe. Today in the garden I have seen a rather unusual snake, which I have never seen before. Arnold my husband says it is a yellow belly sand snake, but it does not look like the photographs. It is slim like the yellow belly, the head is solid black, I would say the length is the same size as a yellow belly, it is yellow on its back it has brown stripes, I cannot remember if it has two brown stripes or one, but it has no white on its head. Around its neck is three brown stripes. I did not kill it. I tried to catch it but it got away. Maybe you could help me name the little snake. Thank you so much Lea, Victoria Falls Zimbabwe
Hi Teddy,
“I was introduced to the Zambezi Traveller, by a certain lady at Avondale Hre, Issue 03 Dec 2010, from that day onwards it has become part of my life I love it.”
Travellers Friend 47
g veller durin a r T i z e b am Hi, the Zam ful Zim. I d reading ti e u y a jo e n b , e g y ll ays I rea amazin I spent in and had alw s y k e n e a w m r 2 e fell 1 the tor from G ver since I e la , s e n w a b tr a e b c ings e in Zim a freelan ly good th e some tim n v o a e h v a to h d I s ago. wante eI many year Falls wher it ic h V it w in e y v ta in lo BYO, ut my s to Gweru, report abo s d ip n tr a y y a ostly m s t to travelled m , and abou I e . g e a n tt a o s c a a K rented ga and ssed by the vingo, Bin e s r a p M im , o y g r p e Mato et. Stunnin t and was v m r I o e p s n n o a y r tr e ned s of ev on public aveller tur helpfulnes tr d n le a a s m s e fe n a lone ter me friendli looking af lity. Being a e r it e p s w o h le p n s o Africa antage. Pe in Vic Fall v s d y a a t d a e w r g fe e my last out to be a u!!!! to all th t. During o n Y e k w n I a e r Th e t to say everywh out. I wan t ial. p e r c m e o very spec s y this po ta s y m o made people wh The Zambezi Traveller
Usch Pilz Hi Lea, welcomes letters to the editor Interested to read your email! fjackson@iwayafrica.com Without seeing the snake it can sometimes be difficult to Hi positively identify, due to colour Hello Teddy How does one go about subscribing so as variations that do occur. The Today after a long time of to receive regular copies of the Zambezi Tinashe T Kwezera Magada missing issues, I did receive your snake you describe does sound like Harare Traveller? I was fascinated by the telemetry edition number 8 of the Zambezi a member of the genus Psammophis, track of the lion Dynamite from near Main Traveller with such a pleasure. I which includes the Sand Snakes and Camp Hwange, where I was born and grew love to read it and the articles are so Whip Snakes. There are a few species of up, to Livingstone. interesting. My desire to return to that Psammophis that occur in the Victoria Falls area. They are John Davison, Wildlife Experiences Tour Guide part of the world is getting stronger and Kwazulu Natal, South Africa usually characterized by their stripe patterns, and being stronger after reading your informative slender and fast moving snakes. and well written articles . As an owner of Hi Fran They are all listed as being mildly venomous, which they a travel agency I can also keep my clients How are you and your lovely family doing. would need to be in order to subdue their prey – however of up to date on issues facing the various Jim just home with a copy of the paper no danger to man. Indeed, I have caught and handled many countries you cover. I would like to make he got at a hotel in Namibia. Fab reading of these snakes, and been bitten by them a number of times certain I receive every issue. Good luck and I am hooked. Please send us some to with your great publication. – it is similar to a small pin-prick, with no further symptoms. promote for you. Best regards Having said that, I must stress that it is not advisable at Love Mireille Wilkinson, USA all to try to catch a snake without an absolutely positive Gill High, Cape Town South Africa identification, as this can have disastrous results if one has been mistaken! There are a couple of experienced snake Hello Teddy, Frances, handlers in Victoria Falls who can be called upon to identify, To Zim I’ve just returned from a super little holiday to the Falls Your beautiful sons and safely catch and remove snakes from human habitation. We during which time we were frequently engrossed in the daughters are: current issue of ‹The Zambezi Traveller› - what a fabulous Black, white and coloured paper! It was really interesting and relevant, well done to George van Wyk 0772942859 Shared their stories all of you. How can one receive the publication regularly? Stuart Danks 0772302747 best regards, Their love of the land Snakes play a vital role in nature, and it is delightful to Martin Wells, Summmit Publishing, Cape Town, South Africa Their pain and their joy encounter them and enjoy watching their activities – safely. Their bitterness and hope We are not prey to them, and if given their space they will Talked of lilies in the field always avoid confrontations with people. Held out their work-worn Kind Regards, hands George van Wyk Opened their minds and hearts Made space for me in the shade at their sides.
I am less of a stranger, Now that I go.
Hi Frances
Natalie, Micheal, Pauline and Baynham Goredema in Chobe
Sean Webster, New Zealand
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Available from: Local Hotels and Lodges and coffee shops The travellers friend, a definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi. Distributed world wide to Travel Agents, industry shows, hotels, lodges and key public areas throughout the region, including capital cities. Expose your destination, activities, businesses to an international market through the Zambezi Traveller. Editorial Submissions Zambezi Traveller welcomes editorial submissions but reserves the right to publish. Email in Word format to
Usch Pilz
I am a Zimbabwean living in New Zealand, and when stumbling across your paper on a houseboat on Kariba I thought about putting an article in it before I return. So I would love to put a write up in your newspaper/ magazine. Is this possible?
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48 Travellers Friend
SPORT
Zambezi Traveller
Fun, fitness, community and conservation Zambezi Traveller calls on all runners and riders of the Zambezi Region to use your legs to make a difference. Here are four events for this winter where you can enjoy and really help worthy causes.
Hwange Main Camp
Pumping legs for water At the end of July, off-road bike enthusiasts will meet at Hwange Main Camp to ride through the park. The event organised by Wildlife and Environment Zimbabwe (WEZ) will raise the much-needed funds for the provision of water to the animals in the park. Hwange National Park has no perennial rivers; it relies on waterholes at pans which are filled with water by windmill and diesel pumps. It is a huge cost to keep the pumps operating and in good order. Without them the animals would die.
This is a two-day, 100km mountain bike ride in the Main Camp area of Hwange National Park. Entry fee is $150 but riders are expected to raise more in sponsorship. All profits go towards Wildlife & Environment Zimbabwe projects particularly the Hwange Game Water Supply programme.
FFeeee
$$115500
More Details Contact - Adele Edwards
email admin@dambari.com, phone +263712366917
2012 Kariba Half Marathon SUNDAY 12 AUGUST 2012 REGISTRATION – OG’S HARARE Thursday 2 & Friday 3 August 5pm – 8pm LATE REGISTRATIONS LOMAGUNDI LAKESIDE, KARIBA, Saturday 11 August from 10am – 4pm. Strictly no entries after 4pm ENTRY FEE - $20 per 21km & 10km Old Georgians Sports Club, Harare, Lomagundi Lakeside Office, entry, $2 for 2km baby race. Start Time - & Where Start Is Start Kariba - E-mail – karibahalfmaratime AMC garage - 21km Half thon@gmail.Com
Tel: Kiara 0779 675 935 (Working hours only) Sonya 0772 874 352 (Working hours only) COME JOIN US For a fun filled weekend with water slides, bucking bronco, disco, full bar and caterPrize giving from 11h30 at Lomagundi ing before and after the race! Accommodation enquiries contact: Lakeside Dome Marathon start 06h30 10km Fun Run start 06h40 (fun runners to note that only the first 3 runner in will be timed) Baby race starts at 10h30 at the Lomagundi Lakeside main gate
Registration forms available via email gokariba.com: enquiries@gokariba.com or Lomagundi@zol.co.zw or can be collected from:
Wildlife and Environment Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls Marathon
LUNGWA FUN RUN
ZimbAbwe
30 June
26 2012
AUGUST
Bigger & Better!
at Mfuwe Airport
Promoting Sports, Tourism and Conservation in Eastern Province, Zambia
42.2km Full Marathon 21.1km Half Marathon 5km Fun Run Something for everyone. A fully supported and IAAF registered event. Pre-paid entries and travel packages available via the website, www.vicfallsmarathon.com, or register at the Kingdom Hotel on Friday, 24 August or Saturday, 25 August. Great after-party on the banks of the Zambezi, and sunset cruise for athletes and supporters.
The South Luangwa Conservation Society (SLCS) will hold the Mini Marathon/sports day 2012 for the fourth year. Join us and the Eastern Province in a fun filled day of running, athletics, volley ball matches, football matches, tug of war, netball, relays and other sports activities. Many prizes to be won!
www.vicfallsmarathon.com
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