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Issue 05
Planning the bright future of wildlife New developments in the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area
Orbituary Shay Best 1961 -2011 Champion of Wildlife
04 Culture Katambora and life on the banks of the Zambezi River
20 Awards Zambian tourism in the lime light
22 Conservation
Kapenta fishing boat on Lake Kariba
By Alan Sparrow
K
ey players met on 18 May in Kariba town to plan Phase Two of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, which will link an area from Victoria Falls to the Kariba Dam wall and includes the districts of Kariba, Binga and Gokwe. Sixty people attended the meeting hosted by the Zimbabwe National Parks and
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
Wildlife Authority at the Cutty Sark Hotel. To new readers of Zambezi Traveller the Kaza TFCA is an initiative by the governments of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe to link the protected areas of the five countries to create one worldclass tourism destination. The TFCA movement is being enthusiastically supported by the governments of the countries along the length
The chiefs who were present at the meeting
The traditional leaders stood up for the wildlife in their chiefdoms and asked for help to manage their Campfire areas adjacent to the National Parks.
of the Zambezi. Angola and Zambia are actively planning to link the Liuwa Plains National Park in northwest Zambia to the Kameia National Park in eastern Angola. The Liuwa Plains are famous for a massive seasonal migration of wildebeest, second only to the migration in the Serengeti. This TFCA will be called the Liuwa Plains-Mussuma TFCA. Continued on page 2
BirdLife Botswana to the rescue
36 Record 85 year old became the oldest person to do the Zip line!
39 Regulars Victoria Falls 3, Hwange 11, Visa & Park Fees 12, Livingstone 13, Events Calendar 21, Luangwa 22, Lusaka 22, Harare 23, Kariba 25, Chobe 34, Okavango 37, Letters 39
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The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
A lifetime on the road less travelled Reprinted with the permission of Independent Newspapers, Cape Town. A lifetime of scientific research has earned him a major award, but it is Peter Steyn’s ability to “never lose the sense of wonder” that has truly enriched his life. The Claremont, Cape Town, ornithologist is the 18th recipient of The Gill Memorial Medal since 1960, the highest honour awarded by BirdLife South Africa for contribution to the advancement of knowledge of birds in southern Africa. “Without my wife’s support through 51 years of marriage, I would not have been able to achieve what I have,” Steyn said. “Her support is all the more special as she is not a birdwatcher at all, but she bashed out my first six books for me on an
old Hermes 2000 typewriter.” In 1973 Steyn’s first book Eagle Days was published, the culmination of 20 years of observation and photography. This was followed in 1974 with a popular guide to the birds of Hwange National Park which remained in print for 25 years. Then, in 1982, after long years of research, Birds of Prey of Southern Africa was published; it ran to three impressions and still remains the definitive reference work on the raptors of the region. Subsequent publications were A Delight of Owls (1984), Hunters of the African Sky (1990) and then in 1996, his second major work Nesting Birds, the result of a lifetime’s fascination with the breeding habits of birds. “If my work has brought some of the joy of living and experiencing ‘the road less travelled to others, then all my years of recording what
I have seen have been even more worth it,” Steyn said. Steyn’s interest in birds began as a young boy at Western Province Preparatory School, but it was when he attended Bishops, Cape Town, that his two great interests in birds and photography coalesced. “My interest in raptors began in school with species such as Verreaux’s Eagle nesting on Table Mountain, African Fish Eagle breeding at Zeekoevlei on the Cape Flats, Yellow-billed Kites on the Berg River and Red-chested Sparrowhawks in pine forests near my home.” Steyn described his later move north to Zimbabwe to take up a teaching post at Falcon College, Bulawayo, as “the single most important milestone in our lives.” “The Falcon years were among the most productive of my life; during the school holidays I would write up my
Peter and Jenny Steyn
observations for publication.” Then, in 1970, at age 34, he took the momentous decision to leave teaching and become a full time ornithologist. His boyhood enthusiasm continued into adulthood, with a life filled with the joy of building hides or sitting on cliff faces, travelling worldwide, and
Now, “in these sunset years” at nearly 75, Steyn says he is content to watch birds for sheer enjoyment. “Every day I watch the pair of Laughing Doves that visit our tiny townhouse garden and marvel at their beauty. No wonder Ken Newman chose it as the first bird he illustrated.”
the amazement of seeing nearly extinct species make a comeback. “There are a lot of doomsayers out there, but I saw the very last breeding pair of Mauritius Kestrels when there were just four of them left in the wild. That was in 1984, and they have recovered so well that there are well over 200 breeding pairs now.”
Planning the bright future of wildlife Halsted’s Aviation Corporation
Continued from page 1
Closer to the Katombora Rapids downstream of Sesheke, the two chiefdoms of Inyambo Yeta and Sekute are planning to establish a Community Wildlife Conservancy in the Simalaha Floodplains which will link the wildlife areas of the Caprivi Strip, Namibia and Chobe, Botswana through to the Kafue National Park north of Livingstone. Exciting times! But to get back to what happened in Kariba. The Parks authorities invited thirty stakeholders from the eastern basin to the May meeting. Sixty people turned up including the traditional leaders from the Kariba District, Parks and Forestry
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PHOTO: BAYNHAM GOREDEMA
Further along the Zambezi, the news is that the Sioma Ngwezi National Park in the south-western corner of Zambia will be rehabilitated and wildlife populations restored to their former glory. As reported in the last issue of the Zambezi Traveller, the work of the NGO “Elephants Without Borders” shows that elephant are moving north out of Botswana and Namibia into the Sioma Ngwezi National Park in Zambia and into the vast new Luiana Park in southeastern Angola. Allan Sparrow
officials, the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority, immigration authorities, private tour operators and members of the Save Kariba campaign. All agreed to work together to tackle some of the major challenges facing the wildlife in the Kariba area. Matusadona National Park was identified as one of the key icons. The meeting proposed that funds be sought to assist the Parks authorities to carry out aerial surveys of the wildlife populations in Matusadona and to design a new Park Management Plan.
The traditional leaders stood up for the wildlife in their chiefdoms and asked for help to manage their Campfire areas adjacent to the National Parks. The topic of the declining kapenta fish populations in the lake was hotly debated and a proposal put forward to carry out a new survey of fish stocks in the Lake. The “Save Kariba Campaign” needs significant support to get this unique body of water and its parks and wilderness areas back on the list of Must See places. The Lower Zambezi/Mana Pools TFCA is next on the list. The governments of Zambia and Zimbabwe are committed to linking the famous Mana Pools National Park to the Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia. Further downstream, Mozambique, Zambia and Zimbabwe are working on linking wildlife areas along the Zambezi River to establish another TFCA. Let your imagination go wild... In the not-too-distant future an elephant could decide to walk upstream from Kanyemba to Katombora and on up to the Liuwa Plains National Park, and be able to complete the journey without problems.
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A bridge too near?
By Peter Roberts
T
he Victoria Falls Bridge is now such an integral part of the history and environment of the Victoria Falls area that it is hard to imagine that its construction in 1904-5 resulted in much controversy. Many protested that the bridge was an act of engineering vandalism and should not be built so close to the natural wonder of the Falls. A writer for Scientific American magazine, in an article published in July 1905
WIN!
to celebrate the building of the bridge, recorded: “To ascertain the general feeling of the visitors on the site chosen, a book was kept at the [construction] engineers’ camp, and a very large majority of the opinions are favourable to it, many visitors being converted from hostility to approval on seeing the facts of the case – in fact, one guest goes so far as to say the following: ‘The falls in their present position cannot possibly detract from the beauty of the bridge.’”
“The falls in their present position cannot possibly detract from the beauty of the bridge.” Despite objections and engineering advice in support of an alternative site upstream of the Falls, it was Cecil Rhodes’ wish that the bridge should be built “where the trains, as they pass, will catch the spray of the Falls.”
First 10 correct answers will win! Competition runs from June – August 2011.
How far does one fall on the Bridge Bungi? Answer this question and win a copy of Peter Roberts’ Sun, Steel and Spray. A history of the Victoria Falls Bridge.
First 5 answers brought to the Bridge will win a copy of the book. First 5 anwers received on email will win a copy. Email Sonya Clay at admin@vicfallsbungi.co.zw Please give your postal address when emailing.
This was against the opposition of his own brother, Colonel Frank Rhodes, who is recorded as saying: “Well, I have done all I could to prevent the bridge being built… and nothing is now left for me to do but pray
daily for an earthquake.” His prayers were almost answered in 1910 when an earthquake shook the town of Livingstone and a shower of rocks were dislodged into the gorges below the Falls. The bridge however was undamaged. The bridge soon became a popular tourist attraction in its own right, offering pedestrians, as well as train passengers, a spectacular view of the Falls and gorges below. Today the bridge is the second most famous
landmark of the region, after the Victoria Falls themselves, hosting a 111 metre bungee jump with a hair raising 80 m bungee swing and 300 m zip line. The recently refurbished Visitor Centre with viewing platform, restaurant and bar is located on the northern bank. Peter Roberts, freelance writer and researcher, has written a book, ‘Sun, Steel and Spray,’on the history of the Victoria Falls Bridge, in association with the Victoria Falls Bridge Company.
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The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
ORBITUARY
Shay Best – champion of wildlife
By Jessica Dawson
W
ild Horizons Wildlife Trust founder and champion Shayelene Best devoted her life to wildlife conservation and welfare. Shay and her late husband Gavin made a name for themselves by successfully rearing many orphaned animals, notably elephants. Key to this was their development of the pioneering milk formula that WHWT uses for
closer to the operation. Neither looked forward to town life, but soon were part of a flourishing social scene. Shay’s warmth and generosity of spirit towards animals was echoed in her attitude towards the people around her, reflected in the response of the community when Gavin was tragically killed at the end of 2008.
all orphaned elephant in its care. The couple are also credited with developing industry-leading husbandry standards for the Wild Horizons riding elephants. The couple lived close to Victoria Falls for many years, surrounded by the trees, birds and animals that they loved so much. In 2008 Wild Horizons moved its elephants to a new site, requiring the Best’s to relocate into town to be
Shaylene Best, 1961 - 2011
PHOTO: GAVIN BEST
Researching people and wildlife in conflict A response unit will also be established for humanpredator conflict in which the research team together with the Parks Authority will respond to incidents
Lion eating a cow
PHOTO: Jessica Dawson
By Jessica Dawson
W
ild Horizons Wildlife Trust in conjunction with the Oxford Wildlife Conservation Unit based in Hwange National Park, Main Camp, will be liaising on a project together with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority and the rural community near Victoria Falls.
The first phase of the project will be a survey to evaluate all incidents of human-wildlife conflict in the community. A response unit will also be established for human-predator conflict in which the research team together with the Parks Authority will respond to incidents to quantify any damage as well as to evaluate any mitigation techniques used to deter the predator.
1021 Holland Road Ext. P.O. Box 159 Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Tel: +263-13-44426 / 42313/42029 Fax: +263-13-44426 Email: res6@wildhorizons.co.zw www.wildhorizons.co.za
A major component of this program will involve hosting groups of school children at the Wild Horizons Wildlife Orphanage and Sanctuary for a day of conservation education. Every week throughout the school year the Trust together with Environment Africa will host a group of school children from the area to learn about wildlife and interact with some of the orphaned animals that WHWT currently looks after. Each school will be given training manuals for the teachers’ use to promote wildlife conservation across a
range of academic subjects for various ages. It is the aim of this programme to decrease the number of animals being poached, as well as to help children correctly identify wildlife species and to see the potential economic benefit of wildlife. The project will determine the number of humanwildlife conflict incidents, species causing the conflicts, and to be able to quantify the damage or impact. Prey and predator densities will also be evaluated in the area. From this data, Phase Two of the project will then be to implement mitigation solutions. There are a range of innovative options available from the use of chili and/ or bees as a deterrent for elephant, to predator-safe boma designs for protection of livestock.
In 2008 Gavin and Shay had established the WHWT as a non-profit organization with
a commitment to rescue and rehabilitate injured and abandoned wildlife, as well as to impart conservation awareness and skills to local communities. Gavin died when the Trust was in its infancy and Shay became the inspiration in bringing it to maturity.
Shayelene suffered a terminal brain aneurism in March. She will be remembered for her kindness and generosity to people and animals, as well as her wild sense of humour.
Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust
Project Timeline June/July
Working together with the local rural communities and ZPWMA we will begin undertaking a yearlong human-wildlife conflict survey to get a handle on conflict species, and to quantify the impact as well as to evaluate potential mitigation strategies
July/August
We will be working with the Dept. of Vet services to immobilize and test 100 buffalo and 200 cattle for bovine tuberculosis, and Foot and Mouth Disease near Victoria Falls. More details on this project to follow in the next issue Throughout the year we will continue to host together with Environment Africa, groups of 20 school children once a week for a wildlife conservation activity and wildlife orphan interaction and awareness program.
3 WINNERS & 3 COPIES
Are You an Aspiring writer Or photographer? Win a copy of the Magnificent Victoria Falls in the Zambezi Traveller’s “People of the Zambezi” Three copies of this beautiful book will be given away to three lucky winners whose articles with photographs are published. We are looking for a 350 – 400 words with a maximum of two visuals. All entries must be submitted as follows: Text must be in Microsoft Word All images must be CMYK, 300dpi. Email: fjackson@iwayafrica.com
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
5
A new home for the Ukusutha pack
Home and loving it.
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
By ZT correspondent
P
ainted Dogs, also known as African Wild Dogs, are unique to Africa and are among this continent’s most endangered species. It is estimated that a mere 3,000-5,000 remain as loss of habitat, diseases contracted from domestic dog populations, snares and hunting are
having a devastating effect on populations. It has been proven that the loss of just one dog can lead to the ruination of an entire pack. The Painted Dog population in Zimbabwe is one of the last strongholds of the species. Painted Dog Conservation (PDC) is a non-profit making organisation solely committed
to their preservation. Their conservation methods and work with local communities are beginning to have a positive effect on the outlook of the Painted Dog species but, as less national park and private farm land is available in Zimbabwe, sourcing suitable areas in which to re-establish viable packs of re-habilitated dogs is a major challenge.
As a result, Shearwater Adventures is particularly proud and excited to announce the release of a pack of six Painted Dogs by PDC onto the company’s private game reserve situated a few kilometres from Victoria Falls. The pack is led by Sithule, a young male whose previous pack had been completely wiped out by snares in Hwange National Park leaving him unable to fend for himself. While Sithule was given sanctuary at PDC’s rehabilitation centre at Main Camp, he was encouraged to take on the role of older brother to a group of five pups who had been brought to the centre when the alpha pair in their pack was killed by lions. Collectively, this new family has now been renamed the Ukusuta Pack.
All six dogs have been radio collared in order to identify behaviour patterns, hunting and breeding success and mortality. The dogs have also been recorded on the national
computerised photographic identity register. Using sightings reported by tourists, the public and rangers working on the Reserve, PDC is able to keep track of movements of all Painted Dogs. In order to acclimatise to their new home, the Pack is being kept in a separate
enclosure until their full release onto the reserve at the end of June 2011. Clients participating on a Shearwater safari activities will be welcome to visit the dogs at the enclosure and will hopefully spot them regularly following their release in to the Reserve.
Victoria Falls Productions Private Photography / Videography services
Tom Varley will take high quality Pictures / Video of your Experience in Africa We offer a personal service by professional photographers. We can join your day trip in Chobe, trip to Victoria Falls, or anything else you’d like to keep a memory of. Tom Varley, a camera man and a photographer, was raised in the Zimbabwean bush. His love for the wildlife and the area is reflecting in his work and led him to publish a coffee book about Victoria Falls.
Cell: +263 712 616 874 Tel: + 263 13 406 79 Email: tomvarley@me.com www.vicfallsproductions.com
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The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Zimbabwean Stone Sculptors
Zachariah Njobo
FEATURED Exhibitions
1989 France - Cannes Film Festival, Cannes 1989 Spain - Barcelona 1991 USA - Geo Artes Gallery, Los Angeles
By Stuart Danks
1991 Belgium - Racines Gallery, Brussels
Stone Dynamics Gallery
“My passion is my art and my love is for my family.” This is the simple creed of sculptor Zachariah Njobo. Njobo was born in 1962 in the Birchenough Bridge area in the southeast of Zimbabwe, a member of the Ndau tribe which is influenced by both the Shona in the north, and the Ndebele in the south. Their language is a blend of both Chishona and Ndebele. Njobo was the fourth child in a family of six. He grew up at his home in Birchenough Bridge and attended school until grade seven, when he
left at the age of 13 due to financial constraints. Whilst still at school Njobo formed an interest in sculpting, kindled by his Uncle who was a successful wood sculptor. Njobo’s first years away from school were difficult, and while he stayed at home to help his parents, he continued to practice sculpting whenever he had the opportunity. In his early twenties he moved to Harare in search of employment to help support his family, and discovered the Canon Paterson Art Centre. Here, budding sculptors were able to work together and obtain the materials necessary for their sculpting.
1994 UK - Rhino Watch, London
He was able to sell his sculptures and make a living and his work was seen by Stone Dynamics Gallery. The directors saw his potential, and with encouragement to be more creative and try new techniques, his sculpting career began in earnest. Njobo soon began sculpting full time with Stone Dynamics Gallery and his distinctive style brought him to the attention of buyers and collectors worldwide. He has now been with Stone Dynamics Gallery for over 20 years and the gallery has sold his sculptures in a number of venues.
1995 UK - Yorkshire Gardens 1996 Belgium - Petit Leez Gallery 2001 Belgium - Lier Town Academy 2006 Switzerland - Winterthur 2009 Switzerland - Zurich
Zachariah Njobo
HISTORY
The powerful pull of this natural wonder
Adapted from a cotribution by Dr Daan Kesting
D
aan and Paula Kesting from Pretoria recently made a nostalgic visit to the Victoria Falls to commemorate Paula’s 70th birthday and the
couple’s 50th wedding anniversary. It was Paula’s first visit to the Falls, the realization of her heart’s desire. In December 1922, just short of ninety years ago, Daan’s parents had taken their honeymoon at the Victoria Falls Hotel. Joe Kesting, (1894 - 1968), served the Dutch SA Railway
Victoria Falls, exotic and remote to most of the world, holds a special place in the hearts of many travellers
“I had my most intense aesthetic experience when I was suddenly exposed to the sublime beauty of the sculpture executed by African artists.” - Pablo Piccasso PERMANENT EXHIBITION Victoria Falls Hotel, Zimbabwe Tel: +263 13 - 41757 Email: artafrica@bluewin.ch www.stonedynamicsgallery.co.zw
Co and married Pheda van Zyl when he was 28 years old, and she was 23 - at that stage he had already been employed for 13 years by the railways. As a railway employee, he could enjoy the privilege of a free pass for
SAR placed two Class 16A 4-6-2 Pacific locomotives in passenger train service to Victoria Falls in 1915. They were designed by D. A. Hendrie, chief mechanical engineer of the SAR at that time, and built by the North British Locomotive Company in Glasgow, Scotland. Later, two Class 10 1922 and Class 12 1924 steam locomotives were used by the Victoria Falls Safari Express, according to its MD, Philip Steel. These two locos, with a 1901 First Class coach and two dining cars, completely refurbished to the original state, were used for the Royal Tea Run, the Livingstone Luncheon and the Moonlight Dinner Run, each offering early 1900 silver service complete with a historian guide. a luxurious first class coupè. At that time full board at the Victoria Falls Hotel was 21 shillings (one guinea) per person. By the 1920’s it was highly fashionable for passengers from cruise ships to take the train from Cape Town to Victoria Falls for a couple of days and then to return to continue the cruise. In 1922 Daan’s parents would have used the trolley service from the hotel to the Falls. Since 1920 a two foot gauge track (no longer existent) had provided transport for visitors from the hotel. Each trolley, mostly moved by grav-
itation, sported back-to-back garden seats to accommodate 8 guests, protected against sun by canvas awnings, and attended by willing and capable young men. One such trolley has been restored and is on exhibit in a courtyard of the hotel. Today Dr Daan Kesting runs an architectural practice in Pretoria, and has also been Professor of Architecture at the University of Port Elizabeth for a number of years. Daan had previously been to Victoria Falls, initially at the age of 14 with his parents, brother Deon (19) and sister Bettie (12), in July 1947.
On a separate occasion in 1958 he visited while on an adventurous 8000 mile trip through Africa with a fellow architectural student in an old 1942 Harley Davidson with sidecar. Coincidentally, 1947 was the year of the British royal visit to Southern Africa, and in particular their tour in April by train to Victoria Falls from Cape Town. The Royal Suite at Victoria Falls Hotel was commissioned for this visit and has been maintained in its original condition, and was proudly shown to the Kestings this year. In 1947 also, King George V1 himself presented Joe Kesting, then a superintendent of SAR, with a personal Medal of Honour and, for the third time, the coveted Lady DuncanTrophy for the best presented and administered railway station in South Africa. Continued on page 7
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
JEWELLERY DESIGN
The Mavros mark
Patrick Mavros at work
By Mana Meadows
P
atrick Mavros, the man and the brand, is an export of which Zimbabwe can be proud. His handmade silver jewellery and sculpture attracts customers from royalty to movie stars. And with four talented sons also immersed in the company, this is a family dynasty. Mana Meadows caught up with
Patrick Snr. and his son Patrick Jnr. at their home in Harare. “Zimbabwe is the crucible from which everything in our business comes,” says Patrick Mavros. “The stories, the history, the folklore, the traditions, the culture, all the material artefacts that you find throughout our country, the topography, the wildlife, the weather, the wild flora −
everything about our country is exciting.” It’s a long list. But Mavros means it. And a wander through the silver world of African flora and fauna in his Harare studio is all it takes to appreciate just how much inspiration this sculptor, jeweller and story-teller draws from his homeland. Every piece is alive. From the sprung tension in an impala’s muscles as it leaps and twists to escape a cheetah’s death tap, to the flawless detail in a baobab’s bark, it is clear Mavros’ empathy with his subjects allows him to breathe life and character into every piece. “If I can produce detail close to reality, then I’ve done a good job. That’s my measure. And it’s a simple measure.” The designer is known for his unique subject matter: pangolin sculptures, elephant and mopane-tree candelabras, crocodile rings, guinea-fowl lampshades − the list is as varied as it is long. And with the four Mavros sons (Alex,
Fit, fearless and having fun By Barry Meikle “How old are you, son?” the rafting manager, who looked like the original Camel man, asked. “Twenty three,” I said, lying through my teeth, trying to make my voice sound as deep as possible. “Well, you seem a little young, but I’ll give you a try - welcome aboard!” I had just passed my first job interview, but this wasn´t any job; I was going to Victoria Falls. All I knew was that I wanted to be one of the famous oarsmen of the Zambezi. To be counted in the pantheon of bronzed River Gods. The year was 1991; I was only 18 and had no idea. By the time the company found out that I was barely old enough to legally buy a drink, I was well into my job. Most of the other guides were much older, and had been around a while. They were confident, fit, and fearless. And they were very patient and supportive of us new boys, even though they were much older. A lot of the guides were foreigners in those days and we studied and emulated their every move. After all the training, the day came for us to take our first clients down the river. After that, you were in, ‘One of the Boys.’ All I needed to do was to work
Today, Daan and Paula felt as if they were received as special guests at the hotel. They were treated to traditional high tea and tour of the hotel, and nostalgically enjoyed the same view from the terrace as their parents did some 90 years ago.
Forbes, Patrick and Ben) injecting fresh ideas into the business, the list is getting longer. “They’re all artistic, they’re all creative, they’re all hardworking and they’re all focused on the business,” says Mavros. “From an early age the boys were involved. They helped in the workshops when they were little and made their poor mother presents of awful jewellery.” These days, their skills are more refined. Forbes and Patrick Jnr. both studied Jewellery Design and Silversmithing at the Edinburgh College of Art, and Alex and Ben also contribute ideas and designs for new pieces. Mauritius-based Forbes was the man behind the stylish Patrick Mavros silver elephant-hair bangle. The two younger brothers, Patrick Jnr and Ben recently launched (and are still developing) the
the croc skin line began. “All my inspiration comes from Zimbabwe,” says Patrick Jnr. “We try to spend a lot of time in the bush. I’m always picking up interesting things − bits of wood, skeletons, skin, seeds, pods, skulls − and then coming back here and experimenting with them.” He shows me one of his more recent experiments − a handcrafted sterling silver python vertebrae necklace. The piece, modelled on a real python skeleton, consists of 75 separate vertebra joined together with intricate ball and socket joints. With Zimbabwe’s deep well of inspiration, it seems this highly creative and proudly Zimbabwean family will always find something fresh to model. The snake theme
Python vertebrae
retirement, we bring old hunters out of retirement, we listen to great stories around the campfire and it’s a rich time for all of us.” On these trips Ben and Patrick Jnr. love to catch and release crocodiles. This was where the inspiration for
continues in a new jewellery line by Patrick Jnr and Forbes, as they add new species of snakes (black mambas, Egyptian cobras …) as well as incorporate gold and precious stones into the designs. www.patrickmavros.com
Barry Meikle with no helmet!
on my tan, grow my hair long, and make myself technically proficient on the river. The river work would grow my muscles, my ability to hold my drink would improve with practice and I made careful note of all the chat-up lines the guides used. This certainly seemed I job I could get used to. Every day we descended into the Batoka Gorge to challenge the river. Or perhaps it was to dance with her? It was the days of old bucket boats, and no helmets, no safety kayakers, no radios. But accidents were rare, and the guides, for all their macho posturing, where amongst the best in the world. It was the oarsmen that gave the town its vibe. We worked hard, but played harder. The antics and parties at Explorers and Downtime have all become legend. A lot has been
The powerful pull of this natural wonder Continued from page 6
Patrick Mavros Jnr. at work
croc skin collection which has been a major overseas success. Alex, the oldest brother, runs the London shop and oversees the Harrods concession where the company was invited to exhibit last year. For the Mavros family, the line between work, home and play is blurred. “We have a huge amount of fun creating and then running our business − because our business is intermingled with our lives, it’s intermingled with fishing, exploring, hunting, meeting new people, discovering new animals, so it’s a very fertile ground,” says Mavros. Every year the family goes on safari to the Zambezi to recharge their batteries. “Some of us hunt, some of us photograph, some of us sketch, some of us fish. We bring old trackers and skinners out of
said of the amorous antics at the time, but if you mix many fit, young, single people, add the testosterone fueled nature of whitewater rafting, a hot tropical climate, plenty of cheap beer, and all the masses of tourists on holiday and looking for a good time - is it really surprising? We had great job satisfaction. My clients might be billionaires from Texas, but on my raft I was king. People who were used to controlling everything found themselves completely out of their depth, and relied on us completely. It was a great feeling of power for an 18 year old, but also a massive responsibility. People could be killed if you messed up. On the other hand, to be told by someone that they had just had the best day of their lives was a great feeling. It was good, honest, physical work. We used our brains to navigate and entertain, and the strength of our shoulders to get the job done. We measured our efforts by the aches in our calloused hands. I suspect that those of us fortunate to have been oarsmen during this time will always look back on those years as the best in our lives. Just for a moment in our lives we felt invincible, fearless, great. Who doesn’t want to feel like that? I will always be proud and grateful to say “I was a Zambezi oarsman.”
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T h e Z i m B a n g l e i n S o l i d S t e r l i n g S i l v e r, f o r A d v e n t u r e r s .
HASLEMERE LANE, UMWINSIDALE, HARARE TEL: 860131 MOB: 0772 414 414 WWW .PATRICKMAVROS.COM HARARE@PATRICKMAVROS. COM
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The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
ECOLOGY
BIRD WATCHING
A candlelit march on Earth Day Birding day in named for Saint Francis, patron Saint of Ecology. Earth Day was first observed on 21 March 1970, by San Francisco and 21 other cities.
Rasta dancing with fire
PHOTO: Jo Brown
By Jo Brown
W
e were privileged to be invited guests at the Earth Day celebrations held at Chamabondo School, Victoria Falls. Environment Africa ensured that our town joined the rest of the world in commemorating this annual event. At 6 pm, bus loads of students smartly dressed in uniform from ten schools in the area began to fill the school grounds. Each child was given a candle and a long procession began around Mhukosana township. It was a truly uplifting and ethereal experience, walking shoulder to shoulder in flickering candlelight with the children singing traditional songs. Residents came out of their houses and pedestrians stopped to watch as the children slowly filtered past.
We returned to the school and thoroughly enjoyed listening to the finalists of the Earth Day poetry competition. Any doubt as to the standard was dissipated after the first recital. The competitors spoke with clarity and confidence, and the choice of winner must have been a very difficult decision. Earth Day was pioneered by John McConnell, an activist at a UNESCO conference in San Francisco in 1969.The setting was apt as San Francisco was
In 1990 Earth Day went truly international, thanks to the efforts of Danis Hayes, and is now celebrated in more than 175 countries every year.The day aims to increase awareness and appreciation of the earth’s natural environment.The choice of 21 March marks the March equinox, mid-spring in the Northern Hemisphere, mid-autumn in the Southern Hemisphere, when the sun is directly above the earth’s equator, which occurs twice a year, around 20 March, and 23 September. Natural disasters seem to be wreaking havoc throughout our planet, and the Earth Day celebrations at a local school were a gentle reminder of humanity’s responsibility to protect the gift we have been given, and to take measures to secure the earth’s future.
Victoria Falls
By Susan Cottrell
T
welve enthusiasts spent a fascinating day birding in the Victoria Falls environs, led by experienced guide Darryl Tiran and accompanied by knowledgeable birders Peter Laver and Lyn Francey from Kasane. We walked the Elephant Hills golf course where in the lower reaches we saw Coppery Sunbird, whose irridescent plumage was displayed in the morning sunlight, the Lesser Honeyguide, Thickbilled Weavers and the gorgeously coloured Grey-headed and Orangebreasted Bush Shrikes, in addition to many common birds. Later, after rounding Zambezi drive where elephants and buffalo roamed, we watched Little, Horus,
Zambezi Teak - Part 2
Properties and uses Ron Cobb’s 1969 Ecology Symbol. It is a “E” from Environment, and an “O” from organism, combined
SOLAR HOT WATER SOLUTIONS FOR HOTELS, RESORTS AND BUSH CAMPS
By Richard Lowe Zambezi teak (Baikiaea plurijuga) is one of the finest heavy-duty timbers in the world. It is quite distinct botanically and structurally from the so-called true teak (Tectona grandis) native to southeast Asia. Though its aesthetic properties are similar, Zambezi teak is a very
much denser, and therefore more durable timber. Evidence of the superb qualities of Zambezi teak arose in 1952 when a worldwide enquiry was conducted to find the most suitable material for making the floors of the London Corn Exchange. It had to be extremely hard and dura-
and White-rumped Swifts and Rock Martins wheeling beneath us in the gorge below the bridge. T h e l u n c h t i m e t re a t was a visit to the Vulture Restaurant at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge where, 365 days a year, the vultures circle above the trees in increasing numbers as midday approaches. The staff throw out various scraps and with much wing-beating, the vultures dive to earth throwing up dust and, gobbling and squabbling, snatch up the offerings. The winners here are the oversized Marabou Storks with their whispy scalps, funereal plumage and long strong legs and beaks. They snatch food from the Whitebacked and Hooded Vultures and, tossing back their heads, swallow huge bones which are
ble because of the heavy wear and tear of corn kernels being ground underfoot. After a series of stringent tests, Zambezi teak was proven to be the hardest and most durable wood in the world for this purpose. It has a stunning, fine, close grain and deep, rich, red colour. For one local furniture manufacturer, the timber is such an attractive and valuable resource that it is called the ‘Red Gold!’ Zambezi teak was first exploited in 1908 when its
Bird watchers
clearly visible in their slack pink throats. A couple of jackals ventured in but were frightened off by the large jostling mob of birds. After the exhilaration of watching that spectacle, just metres from where we sat, we adjourned to the bar for a superb meal laid on by the Safari Lodge. An afternoon trip into the forest was highlighted by sightings of the seldom seen Violet Widowbird, three magnificent Ground Hornbills and a large flock of Crested Guineafowl. unique properties were realised and it was harvested to produce railway sleepers for the rail lines throughout southern Africa, and for construction purposes. Today it is appreciated for its natural beauty and value as an outstanding furniture timber, and it is harvested in controlled quantities to produce very high value-added, world class furniture. It also makes a stunning floor and superb doors and windows.
Personalise your experience Accommodation
FREE Sunset cruise with any 2 activities booked. SAVE - book a Lion + Elephant Combination Trip SAVE more - book any 3 activities.
Victoria Falls
For Supply and Installation contact Zimbabwe +263 772 778 146 Zambia +260 977 770 251
Botswana +267 714 10981 Namibia +264 811 244 740
solarhart-africa@solahart.com.au
Factory: 452 Miles Road, Victoria Falls Tel: +263 13 44495
Harare
Doon Estate, 1 Harrow Road Harare Tel: +263 4 292 5398
White Water Rafting
Activities
White Water Rafting Elephant Back Safari Lion Encounter Canoe Trails 2hr Game Drive High Wire Activity 2hr Horse Ride 12 minutes Heli Flight
Lusaka
ns
tio
i nd
Co
Canoe Trails
y
pl
Ap
AY ST
AT
ADVENTURE LODGE
Twin Room | Double Room | Family Room Internet | Bar & Restaurant | DStv 10 mins walk from town G IN S Pay for 2 nights and stay 3 nights N L E IA OP EC Quote code “AL2N3” to qualify P S
Twikatane Road, off Addis Ababa Drive Lusaka (Next to Zebra Crossing Cafe) Tel: +260 211 255 989
Reservations info@adventurezonevicfalls.com
www.adventurezonevicfalls.com
Telephone +263 13 44424 / 42051 / 42054
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
9
BIRD TRACKING
Vulture restaurants attract international clientele By Peter Roberts
come from the feeding sites at Victoria Falls.”
I
n a story first published in the last issue of the Zambezi Traveller (Issue 04), staff at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge discovered that two of the White-backed Vultures feeding at its vulture restaurant had been tagged by researchers in the Pilanesberg Northern Province in South Africa, 900 km south of the Falls. The tagged birds were also seen at a second vulture restaurant on the nearby Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve. The vultures, both immature birds, were caught and fitted with GPS trackers at Mankwe Wildlife Reserve, adjacent to Pilanesberg National Park. The map shows their subsequent movements up to their arrival at Victoria Falls. One of the vultures, named Leverhulme after t h e L e v e r h u l m e Tr u s t which sponsors the research project, extensively explored the surrounding region, visiting Chobe National Park, southern Zambia and the
If vultures are seen with wing tags, the tag code and colour, bird species, location (GPS if possible), and activity should all be recorded. www.mankwewildlifereserve.net/ vulture_project.htm B299 - ‘Leverhulme.’
Vulture showing off wing tags.s
Caprivi Strip.The other stayed three months in the Falls area, regularly visiting both restaurants and other tourist hotspots; aside from spending time across the Zambezi in Livingstone, it was also recorded less than 100 metres from the ‘Big Tree.’
FACT FILE : African White-backed Vulture (Gyps africanus) VULTURES: The African White-backed Vulture is widespread in southern Africa, especially Botswana, the eastern and northern areas of Namibia and parts of Zimbabwe. Although widespread, they have declined rapidly in certain parts of their range. THREATS: Vultures face several threats including accidental poisoning, electrocution from collisions with power-lines, road fatalities, loss of suitable wild habitat and shortage of suitable food supplies. Poisonings especially pose a major threat as hundreds of birds, which can all scavenge on the same carcass, can be unintentionally killed in a single poisoning incident. The widespread and indiscriminate use of poison by livestock farmers, to combat mammalian predators such as jackals, caracals and feral dogs, is a significant problem for vulture conservation. RESEARCH: Recent research has shown that vultures are highly mobile and can cover several hundred kilometres a day in search of food. This makes the implementation of effective conservation measures a daunting task which researchers propose is best approached from a regional perspective.
PHOTO: GAVIN WISE
PHOTO: MANKWE VULTURE RESEARCH PROJECT
Vulture Restaurants, or feeding posts where fresh bones, offal and meat scraps are regularly provided - can help support vulture populations and provide an opportunity to educate tourists about vulture conservation. Louis Phipps, researcher with the vulture research project explains: “Feeding sites such as the ones in the Victoria Falls area provide supplementary food for vultures, especially immature individuals, which can be vital for their survival in the face of diminishing populations of wild animals on which they would normally feed. Improved animal husbandry also means that livestock carcasses are rarely left in the veld. “These sites also provide an excellent opportunity to monitor the numbers of vultures and to detect any sudden declines that might indicate poisoning events or other serious threats. The re-sightings of tagged vultures provide valuable information about ranging activity, and it is hoped that more records will
PHOTO: MANKWE VULTURE RESEARCH PROJECT
wlphipps@zoology.up.ac.za
10
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Advertise in the Victoria Falls Classifieds hudsons@yoafrica.com Mel Hudson
+263 775 297519
Activities
B&B
Catering Services
Hardware
Laundry
Specialist Guide
Shearwater Victoria Falls. Experience the Big 5 on Shearwater’s private game reserve, just 12km from Victoria Falls town and enjoy seeing Africa’s rare black rhino. Contact Shearwater Central Reservations P.O. Box 125, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Tel:+263 (0) 13 44471-3, 42058, 40056-8 Fax:+263 (0) 13 44341 Cell:+263 (0) 712 406 668, +263 (0) 773 461 716 reservations@shearwatervf.com
Lorries B&B, Victoria Falls. Full English Breakfast. Ensuite Rooms. Home cooked dinners. Your home away from home. Phone: +263 (0) 13 42139 or +263 (0) 712 406 584. Email: lorrie@mweb.co.zw. 10% discount on production of this advertisement.
Delicious Indian Cuisine. Seventh Heaven Foods (Pvt) Ltd. 523 Reynard Rd, Victoria Falls. Take-aways, catering for functions. Specialises in snacks and Indian dinners. Call Anju and Barry Nathoo on +263 (0) 13 40527/42348. Cell: +263 (0) 712 212 255/+263 (0) 775 121 406. Email: khemhim@yoafrica.com
Hardware Zone, Victoria Falls for all your electrical, plumbing, painting and building requirements. Phone +263 (0) 13 42202, cell +263 (0)773 255 788, 426 Pioneer Road, Industrial Area
Spotless Laundry Services at Victoria Falls Restcamp, Lodge 17. Open daily. Contact +262 (0) 4050911 or +263 (0)772 347687
Specialist Safari Guide – for keen wildlife enthusiast. Walking safaris, bird-watching trips, game drives, night drives in the Zambezi National Park and more! Contact Discover Safaris on email: cat@yoafrica.com, tel: + 263 (0) 13 45821 or cell: + 263 (0) 712 209 144
Mosi-Ua-Tunya B&B, six en-suite rooms, air conditioned, and additional family accommodation available. Located 603 Mahogany Road. Reservations call: +263 (0) 13 44336, email moslodge@yoafrica.com, cell +263 (0)772 462 837. Tokkie Lodge, your home from home whilst travelling. Contact +263 (0) 43306 or Manache +263 (0) 0712 207396. Email: reservations@tokkielodge.co.zw
Horseriding Safaris
Le Croissant Victoria Falls - Delicious Swiss quality oven-ready frozen BUTTER CROISSANTS available in a variety of sizes and flavours. Ideal for hotels, lodges, guest houses or event catering. For further information please contact Rolf or Alison Steiner. Tel. 013 – 41590 or e-mail steiners@yoafrica.com
Locksmith Victoria Falls Locksmiths - Providers of 24hr key cutting and lock-out services. Tel : Levi on 013 44526, Cell 0778 132 220 or 0712 764 486
Predator Diving
Leon Varley WALKING SAFARIS
CROCODILE CAGE DIVE - ELEPHANT WALK SHOPPING VILLAGE - Cage dive with crocodiles and Zambezi river species including the mighty Tiger fish. See these creatures up close. First ever scuba diving activity in the world of its type. Know your Predator!!! Open by the end of June 2011
Convinience Store
Pharmacies The one and only convenience store in Victoia Falls. Open 7 days a week Monday to Saturday 7am to 11pm and Sundays from 7am till 9pm. We will cater for all your food needs during your stay in Vic Falls. Situated in the centre of town opposite the Rest Camp, Shop 6 Parkway Drive, Victoria Falls. Contact us on (013) 43429.
The Zambezi Helicopter Company. View the vastness of the Victoria Falls and it’s surrounds the best way! Take a helicopter flip and enjoy the magnificent splendour of the Zambezi River and it’s Falls. Contact The Zambezi Helicopter Company, Box 125, Zimbabwe. Tel +263 (0) 13 43569, cell: +263 (0) 773 080 909, +263 (0) 712 324 422. Tel/fax: +263 13 40059. Email: zhc.reservations@highestec.co.zw. Skype: zambezihelicopters Web site: www.zambezihelicopters.com Vic Falls Adventure Zone White Water Rafting - Half Day, Full, Overnights, 2.5 Day and 5 Day trips.
Victoria Falls Pharmacy shop No.3 Phumula Centre, close to Chicken Inn complex. Tel +263 (0) 13 44403, after hours cell: +263 (0) 712 4051269/+263 (0) 712 405 270.
Repairs and Workshops
Charity Events
Victoria Falls Adventure Zone Canoeing - Wine Route, Half Day, Full Day, Overnight & 2.5 Day trips.
Once a month a number of Victoria Falls residents put together ‘goodie parcels’ with a few luxuries, mostly necessities for elderly people in the community that are struggling to make ends meet. Anyone wishing to contribute to this can email Cathrina Gover: gover@ yoafrica.com and Mel Hudson: hudsons@yoafrica.com
Vic Falls Adventure Zone Elephant Back Safaris, Lion Encounter, Tours & Transfers, Sales booking office for all other activities in town. Contact: info@ adventurezonevicfalls.com or groups@adventurezonevicfalls.com, Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44424/42051.
Rotary Club of Victoria Falls meets every Thursday at Ilala Lodge between 1:00pm and 2:00pm. For further information please contact our club president Victor Mupanguri on +263 (0) 773 608916, Josh Ncube on +263 (0) 712 207368 or Anne Taggart, our club secretary on +263 (0)772 254552.
Beauty Therapy
Victoria Falls Tourism Police Unit. A donar funded iniative between private and public sector in conjunction with the Zimbabwe Republic Police to ensure a safe environment for visitors and local residents within the Victoria Falls tourism area. Anyone wishing to assist in sponsoring one or more of the dedicated Tourism Police Officers please contact Kevin Fry +263 (0) 772 872646
Cultural Activities
Wild Horizons is a “one-stop’ activity provider offering a range of tours and activities including rafting, canoeing, elephant back safaris and high wire activities. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw
TRADITIONAL LUNCHES Tyress Beauty & Health Salon. Manicures.Pedicures.Artificial Nails.Facials.Make-up.Massages.Waxing.Tweezing.Body Scrub. Braiding. For all your relaxation & body treatments. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Tel : 013 45039, Cell: +263 772 607 940, email: leomarowa@gmail.com
ph: 42847; 0772 313270; 0712 292228
Hotels & Safari Lodges Elephant Camp. The Elephant Camp is a luxury and intimate lodge under canvas only 10 minutes from Victoria Falls and all it’s attractions and activities, yet secluded in it’s own private game reserve so as to allow close up encounters with wildlife. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge. Located in the Matetsi Safari Area with 14km of Zambezi river frontage Imbabala is reknowned for it’s game viewing and bird watching Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571,44426. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw. www.wildhorizons.co.za The Victoria Falls Hotel. ***** Situated on a world heritage site, the legendary Victoria Falls Hotel overlooks the magnificent falls. This gracious 1904 hotel is set in lush tropical gardens that recall the romance of days gone by. Contact Sales and Marketing Manager. Email: marketing@tvfh.africansun.co.zw. Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44751/9
J and M Motors. For all vehicle repairs and breakdown services, mechanical & electrical. Wankie Motors Transport, domestic and International. Located: 1369 Pioneer Road, Victoria Falls, Industrial Area. Tel: +263 (0) 13 42092 Fax: +263 (0) 13 43516, mobile John +263 (0) 712 612 315, Mike +263 (0) 712 606 977.
Booking Agents Crocodile Farm -Stop in and see our range of genuine crocodile leather products! OR just pop down and visit the Crocodile Farm at the same premises. Entrance fee Adult $5-00 – Child $2-00. Contact Margie or Edson, Tel 013 43576, Cell 0712 213 531. 325 Parkway Drive, Victoria Falls. Email znscroc@africaonline.co.zw. We are open every day of the year.
The Kingdom at Victoria Falls. Enter the Legendary world of the Kingdom at Victoria Falls. A modern tribute to Africa’s ancient allure and the closest hotel to the actual falls, situated within the Victoria Falls national Park. The Whitewaters Restaurant an open air Restaurant is situated next to a small man-made lake with indigenous flora which adds to your experience to Zimbabwe and the ambience of the Kingdom at Victoria Falls .Open for Buffet Breakfast and Dinner. For bookings contact+2631344275-9. Email: reservations@kingdom.africansun.co.zw
in Hwange, Chizarira & Gonarezou National Parks. Phone: (013) 42208 OR +263 (0) 712 404 968 Email: leon@backpackers.co.zw OR mags@backpackers.co.zw www.walkafrica.com
Restaurants
Specialist Tour Operator
Jin’s Chinese Restaurant, 571 Nyathi Rd, (APG Lodge). Contact +263 (0) 773663810 or +263 (0) 773874874 for bookings.
Zambezi Safari & Travel Co. Registered in the UK and ATOL protected, have a Professional Guide and Safari consultant based Victoria Falls, we cover Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. We have 28 years of on hand experience on the ground here. Contact Chris Worden, professional guide/director. www.zambezi.com. www.bushcamps.com. www. luangwa.net. Email: chris@zambezi.com. Tel: 44 (0) 1548 830059 (UK head office) +263 (0) 13 44427 (Victoria Falls office). Cell: +263 (0) 774 109581. Skype: zambezi_chris. ATOL protected: licence number 10135. Winner Z.A.A Tourism Award 2011
The Victoria Falls Hotel : Stanley’s Terrace, cosmopolitan lunch The Victoria Falls Hotel: Livingstone Room, fine dining with a 7 course menu. The Victoria Falls Hotel: Jungle Junction, international buffet and African Spectacular show. For bookings, contact +263 (0) 44751/9, email : marketing@tvfh.africansun.co.zw.
Restcamps
Thatching Grass Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell: +263 (0) 777 560 856 or landline +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: derekdianawilk@mango.zw or wilkinson.diana@ yahoo.com or contact local agent, John Dewdney +263 (0) 13 44645 or +263 (0)775901534
Traditional authentic lunches and dinners in the heart of the Victoria Falls community. Call Tsitsi on +263 (0) 776 144 080, Flatter on +263 (0) 712 926 678. Email : muposiwa_tsitsi@yahoo.com
Walking Safaris
visit Zambezi Traveller website at www.zambezitraveller.com Victoria Falls Restcamp. Situated in the town centre offers affordable, safe accommodation. Includes self catering lodges, chalets, dormitories, semi luxury tents and camping. Along with a tours & internet desk & In-da-Belly Restaurant. Tel: + 263 13 40509 - 11. Email: campsite@africaonline.co.zw
01 June 2011 FREE DOWNLOADS Latest issues and previous issues in PDF format!
Artists & Art Galleries Stone Dynamics Gallery, The Victoria Falls Hotel. Home to Zimbabwe’s world renowned stone sculptures. For further information contact Stuart Danks, director, email: artafrica@bluewin.ch
Victoria ictoria Falls, alls, Zimbabwe imbabwe Butchery
Fabrics Threads - We stock the widest range of fabric, batiks, haberdashery, foam rubber, batting and curtain accessories in Victoria Falls. 307 Park Way, above the hair salon. Tel : 013-44933, 0712 407 683. Email: jayrajandkatrina@gmail.com
Fishing & Fisherman Outspan Beef - 87 Barry Road, Victoria Falls. New Butchery. A good selection of Meat, Cheeses and Seafood. For orders Call Sandy 013 45034 /0712 430535 The Larry Norton Gallery. Original and reproduced fine art wildlife and landscape images available from this renowned artist. Visit this superb gallery in the historical Victoria Falls Hotel. You will find us in the Stables Lounge. Phone: +263 (0) 772 606 233 and +263 (0) 13 40076. Email: info@larrynorton.co.za and website: www.larrynorton.co.za
Cafes and Coffee Shops CAFÉ JACANAH - Elephant Walk Shopping Village - Daily breakfast and light lunch specials served in the Tranquil Tropical Garden in Elephant Walk Shopping Village surrounded with traditional marimba drums playing. Open daily. More info call 0777 050308
Fishermen flystreamers for sale, rods repaired. Call Tim +263 (0) 712 208 374
Fresh Produce Zambezi Trading. For all your fresh fruit and vegetables. We can supply hotels and lodges. Fresh produce in stock daily. Located 283 Holland Rd, Industrial area, between Swift and Jaggers. For orders call +263 (0) 13 42237/44008/9. Mobile: +263 (0) 772 399 779 or +263 (0) 913 462 343
Game Drives Bird Watching safaris Walking Safaris Night Drives in Zambezi National Park Special interest Safaris & more... Contact us for your wildlife experience... Tel/fax: 013 45821 Cell: 0712 209 144 Email: cat@yoafrica.com
Giraffe don’t read books pointing down while females stretch their necks and feed with heads pointing up. ‘How did I never notice that?’ I wondered, and looked forward to observing this interesting behaviour in action. I’m still waiting. Maybe East African giraffe feed like that but Hwange animals certainly haven’t read the book. Many books describe black rhino as ‘aggressive’, ‘bad-tempered’ or ‘irascible.’ ‘Inclined to run away at the slightest disturbance’ seems more accurate in my experience. Of course they can be a little bad tempered when woken from a deep sleep in the middle of a hot day, but who isn’t? And with so many of their relatives pointlessly slaughtered by mankind we should surely forgive an occasional flash of anger without branding the whole species as aggressive.
What’s a book?
PHOTO: SUE LONG
By Stephen Long
SAVE Foundation & DART Sinamatella Camp, Hwange National Park
O
ne of the pleasures of watching animals is that you can never be certain what they are going to do. Reading about them can also be fascinating, but remember
– although you may have read the book, the animals haven’t. They will do whatever suits them in a particular time and place and that isn’t necessarily what the books lead you to expect. I once read that male giraffe bend their necks and feed with their heads
Sometimes it’s good that animals ignore the behaviour ascribed to them. A book in the Bulawayo Public Library repeats the popular but gruesome camp-fire story that anyone who spends time in the rural areas of Africa soon becomes familiar with; the sight of people whose faces have been disfigured by a hyena bite. Apparently, sleeping outside is as good as inviting a rapid but inexpert face lift. Hide that book next time a hyena enters the library!
For some though, access to the right book would be an advantage. Last November an Emerald Cuckoo arrived at Sinamatella. He called each day for a while then suddenly gave up. A glance at the Atlas
of Southern African Birds would have told him that his kind are rarely encountered in the area and his chances of finding a mate were slim.
But then of course the book could be wrong. Perhaps
Sinamatella is full of female Emerald Cuckoos and our visitor simply lost his voice from singing to them all. Which is right? The book or the cuckoo? Perhaps we will find out, if he returns this year to try again.
One step closer to life in the wild By Peter Blinston Ukusutha translates roughly as ‘very full,’as in having eaten too much food, and is the name we gave to the litter of painted dogs that were brought into the PDC Rehabilitation Facility in July 2009.
Comfortable in their new enclosure
PHOTO: PDC
The dogs’ move to Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve started as soon as the first light in the eastern sky gave us enough illumination. We moved quickly, but
quietly, into position. Everyone knew their role. We had done this before and were well-prepared. Our custombuilt dog trailer was in place, with a funnel, created by boma
sheeting already erected. The plan was to move the dogs slowly and quietly into the trailer at the neck of the funnel. Continued on page 12
natural Indulgence
Tel: (263-4) 498835/6 Email: reservations@thehide.co.zw
www.thehide.com
Our informative Visitors Centre, situated opposite Hwange Airport is open seven days a week
12
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Hwange National Park Zimbabwe’s forgotten champ By Hwange Whisperer
D
ing, Ding. Round two! The Chobe Chirper has championed Chobe National Park as, possibly, the best place in Africa to experience game (Zambezi Traveller Issue 4, 2011). The claims of other heavyweight reserves such as Kruger, Etosha, Luangwa and the Serengeti/ Masi Mara were all considered in this contest for the title of ‘World Wildlife Champion.’ However one contender was left off the list of challengers.
to Hwange than elephants. Lions have made a dramatic come-back in recent years, and species of international conservation importance such as wild dog and cheetah continue to do well. I have been lucky enough to spend a lot of time in Hwange over the last decade. I have been rewarded with many unforgettable
One step closer to life in the wild
Lions have made a dramatic come-back in recent years
Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, is the sleeping giant amongst the great safari areas of Africa. Hwange is true Big Five country, a
wilderness supporting more than 35 large mammal species and over 400 species of bird, putting it on a par with Kruger Park.
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
Whilst Hwange is traditionally famed for its elephants, we perhaps have to concede to Chobe’s current dominance in this department. However there is much more
Continued from page 11
Land Rover ready for the twohour drive to Victoria Falls.
At first the dogs, ever curious, approached the driving team rather than walking away! Standing shoulder to shoulder we moved slowly and quietly forward, pressing the dogs towards the trailer until a stand off developed. The dogs just lay on the floor at the entrance to the trailer and we stood just meters away.
It could not have gone more smoothly. The welfare of the dogs was and is always of paramount importance. It was still only 06:30 so we would have them in their new home long before the heat of the day. The drive was uneventful; we arrived in good time and backed the trailer up to the gate of their temporary new home.
One half a step forward and they jumped in. On my signal the gate dropped and we had them safely inside. Big smiles all round as we secured the gate and hooked it up to my
NAMIBIA Namibian Residents
SADC Residents
Other
Vehicle
Etosha Park, Fish River N$30 ($4) Canyon: Ai-Ais & Hobas, Skeleton Coast Park, Naukluft Park: Sesriem & Sossusvlei, Waterberg Plateau Park
N$60 ($8)
N$80 ($11)
N$10 ($1.40)
Other Parks
N$30 ($4)
N$10 ($1.40)
N$40 ($6)
N$10 ($1.40)
NOTE: Children under the age of 16 can visit park for free
ZAMBIA Park
Zambian Citizen
We would like to acknowledge and thank Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority for their unstinting support and cooperation during this entire exercise and the owners, management and staff of Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve for their equally vital support.
Country
Car Fees
Zimbabwe
Passenger Car Fee: $10
Countries that DO NOT need a VISA: Antigua & Barbuda, Aruba, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Botswana, Cayman, Congo (DRC), Cyprus, Fiji, Grenada, Hong Kong, Hong Kong (China), Jamaica, Kenya, Karibati, Leeward, Lesotho, Malaysia, Malawi, Maldives, Malta, Mauritius, Montserrat, Namibia, Nauru, Samoa western, Singapore, Solomon, St. Kitts, St Lucia, St Vincent & the Grenadies, Swaziland, Tanzania, Tonga, Trinidad & Tobago, Turk & Gaicos Islands, Tuvalu, Uganda, Mozambique, Vanuatu, Zambia
VISA FEES
Other
Self Drive
South Luangwa & Lower 25,020 ($5) Zambezi
$20
$25
$30
North Luangwa
20,160 ($4)
$15
$20
$30
Mosi-oa-Tunya
15,120 ($3)
$5
$10
$25
Kafue
20,160 ($4)
25,200 ($5)
$15
$10
Lochnivar, Sumbu & Kasanka
15,120 ($3)
18,900 ($4)
$10
Other Parks
10,080 ($2)
12,600 ($2.50)
$5
NOTE: Children under the age of 5 can visit park for free. Children aged 5 -13 years old pay 50%
BOTSWANA Botswana Citizen
Botswana Resident
Other
Vehicle
10P ($1.50)
30P ($4.50)
120P ($18)
ADULTS 18 years and above
10.00 per day
30.00 per day
120.00 per day
CHILDREN 8-17 years inclusive
5.00 per day
15.00 per day
60.00 per day
Under 3500kg - Private BOTS Registered -10 Pula Foreign Registered –50 Pula Between 3500kg-7000kg - Private BOTS Registered -500 Pula Foreign Registered –1000 Pula Over 7000kg - Private BOTS Registered -800 Pula Foreign Registered –1500 Pula
NOTE: Children under the age of 8 can visit park for free. Children aged 8 -18 years old pay 50%
Park
Locals
SADC Residents
Other
Vehicles
Rainforest
$7
$20
$30
Zim Residents - $5 Non-Zim Residents - $10
Rainforest Lunar
$15
$50
$50
Other Parks
$5
$12
$15
NOTE: Children under the age of 6 can visit park for free. Children aged 6 -12 years old pay 50% DISCLAIMER: Information above can change at short notice. Information taken from the countries web sites as at end of February.
Carbon tax: Dependant on size of engine
Cross Border Charge Permit vehicles: N$200.00 …( Must be paid in town
Countries that DO NOT need a VISA: Angola, Armenia, Australia, Austria, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Belgium, Botswana, Brazil, Canada, Cuba, Denmark, Finland, France, Georgia, next to Shell garage) Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Kenya, Lesotho, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malawi, Malaysia, Mauritius, Mozambique, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Trailor Fees Portugal, Russia, Singapore, Spain, South Africa, Swaziland, Sweden, Switzerland, The N$130.00 Scandinavian countries, Tanzania, UK, USA, Zambia, Zimbabwe Car and trailor cross border permits also payable in Rands. VISA FEES 390 N$ ($52 US)
Botswana - Kazangula Border, Hours: 6am – 8pm
Car Fees Antigua & Barbuda , Australia, Austria , Bahamas , Barbados, Belgium , Belize, Passenger Car Fee: Brunei, Canada, Cyprus, Denmark , Dominica, Fiji , Finland, France, Gambia, Germany, 120 Pula – ($19) Greece, Grenada, Guyana, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Kenya, Kiribati, Lesotho Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malawi, Malaysia, Maldives, Malta, Mauritius, Required Car Insurance: Namibia, Nauru, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Papua New Guinea, Portugal, 50 Pula – ($8) – valid 3 months Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent, Samoa, San Marico, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Spain, Swaziland, Sweden, Switzerland, Tanzania, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Tuvalu, United Kingdom, USA, Uganda, Uruguay, Vanuatu, Yugoslavia, Zambia, Zimbabwe
VISA FEES 25 Pula – ($4)
Zambia - Victoria Falls Border, Hours: 6am -10pm
Countries that DO NOT need a VISA: Antigua, Barbuda, Bahamas, Belize, Botswana, Brunei, Cyprus, Dominica, Fiji Islands, Grenada, Ireland, Jamaica, Kenya, Kiribati, Lesotho, Malaysia, Maldives, Malta, Mauritius, Mozambique, Namibia, Nauru, Romania, St. Kittis and Nevis, St. Lucia, St Vincent, Samoa, Seychelles, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Swaziland, Tanzania, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Tuvalu, Uganda, Vanuatu, Zimbabwe
VISA FEES
Single entry: $50, Double entry: $80, Multiple entry: $80.00, Transit: $50.00, Day Tripper: $20
ZIMBABWE
Car Insurance: $30 – valid 1 month (If cannot show proof of insurance)
Most Nationals, Single entry: $30, Double entry: $45 Britain/UK/Ireland: Single entry: $55, Double entry: $70, Multiple entry: $90 Canadian: Single entry: $75, Double/multiple: to be obtained from local embassy prior to departure South African: Gratis Visas at port of entry.
Namibia - Katima/Mulilo (Caprivi) Border, Hours: 6am – 6pm
SADC Resident
Park
Research and experience have taught us that the dogs need to be held in a safe enclosure in the place we ultimately want them to stay for
approximately two months. If we simply opened the trailer and let them go they would make every effort to return to Hwange as soon as possible, a journey of 200 kms that they could make in three or four days. The Ukusuthas will be held until the end of June, when they will be released into the game reserve itself.
Visa Requirements
Park Fees Park
in poor condition. Park accommodation (excluding commercial lodges) is perhaps best described as basic. But for those willing to explore, Hwange still rewards aplenty. And it is Hwange’s forgotten status among the great wildlife reserves which makes it currently such a special place to visit.
experiences, including the thrill of seeing the Big Five within the space of a couple of hours – if I am allowed to count the buffalo being torn apart by a pride of lions! Arguably one of Africa’s most underrated wilderness areas, some say that Hwange has passed its prime. Years of under-investment have left roads, both tar and gravel,
Carbon Tax: Based on engine type, between K50.00 – K200 000.00, must be paid in Kwacha. CIP form to be completed. Car Insurance: $30 – valid 1 month (If cannot show proof of insurance) Toll Fee (RTSA): To Livingstone: USD10.00 Rest of Zambia: USD20.00
Medical Requirements (for the above mentioned countries) Malaria precautions are advised
Polio shots are recommended
Hepatitis A & B recommended
Typhoid recommended
Please visit your doctor before you travel. The above mentioned are just recommendations.
Notes
- Vehicle charges for passenger cars only. Other fees may apply. - Information for tourists only. Different requirements for business travelers. - Information valid on 01 March , 2011 DISCLAIMER: Information above can change at short notice. Information taken from the countries web sites as at end of February.
Plant Encounters 5
Winter Wonder By Evelyn Roe
Faidherbia albida seeds
W
hat a tree! While others are adorned with greenery in the wet months, it sheds its leaves, and stands bare. Its summer leaf-fall boosts the nutrient status of the soil, supporting abundant new growth through the rainy season. The “inverted phenology” – back-to-front timing of events – has earned Faidherbia albida one of its common names: winter thorn. It is also known as muunga (Tonga name), apple ring, ana tree or white thorn. A former scientific name was Acacia albida, found in older books. Another unusual feature is its flowering time: the creamy-white inflorescence spikes appear at the end of the rains, providing an otherwise scarce source of pollen and nectar for bees. Its protein-rich leaves, fruits and seeds are important food sources for livestock and wild animals, including elephants, which enjoy tucking into the distinctive, large, orange-red,
Above: Faidherbia albida branches Right: Winterthorn on dambo
MEDICINAL USE
curled pods. Each pod contains 10 to 29 shiny, brown seeds which are sometimes eaten by people during the dry season.
stupefy fish, making it easier to catch them. Not recommended by the author!
As if its ecological roles were not enough, Faidherbia albida is also rich in medicines:
Faidherbia is not restricted to this part of Africa, and can be found growing as far north as Ethiopia and the Middle East. It grows on the banks of seasonal and perennial rivers, stabilising and improving the soil. Although it tolerates seasonal water-logging, it cannot withstand heavy clay soils.
Text & photos by Evelyn Roe
roots and bark treat diarrhoea, respiratory infections and fevers
Zambezi anglers take note: it has been recorded that the pods can be used as a fish poison: when soaked in water, they release chemicals that
Evelyn Rose studied botany at the University of Edinburgh and now works as a field researcher with the NorthWest Naturalist’ Society of Zambia. She is currently conducting ethnobotanical research into the uses of wild plants in our area. Look for her book Wild Flowers of Victoria Falls in local bookshops
leav e s, g um an d bark treat colds, eye infections and haemorrhages bark can be used to clean teeth, and an extract is also used to cure eye infections in livestock.
email roe.evelyn@gmail.com
Priceless memories made to the tune of rolling thunder. www.suninternational.com
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Rescued Batoka faces a brighter future conservation
By Rachel Murton
B
atoka, the baby elephant which was rescued from an island in the Zambezi River (Zambezi Traveller Second Issue 2010) continues to make good progress in his new home. With support from the Zambian Wildlife Authority (ZAWA) and Livingstone operators, Batoka was brought safely to Zambian shores in October 2009 and transferred to the Elephant Orphanage Project (EOP) in Kafue National Park. On arrival Batoka was extremely emaciated and depressed – it was thought he had been isolated on the island for up to one month before his rescue. During that time his body condition had
dropped critically – he was starving without the nutrient rich milk from his mother. At only 18 months old, he was still a milk- dependant calf.
In this dejected condition it took Batoka quite some time to adapt to his new surrogate family at EOP. “The first few months were heartbreaking to watch,” said Rachael Murton, EOP Project Manager. “Although Batoka physically recovered well, responding to his new milk formula and gaining in strength, his emotional recovery was much slower. Whilst the other orphans played in the mud, climbing on top of each other and generally being very tactile, Batoka would just keep to himself.”
Batoka on arrival to EOP – his skin was so thin from malnourishment that it was falling off in patches!
At 3 years old Batoka is now a strapping young bull – here he gently checks on one of the younger orphans at EOP
With time, patience and continued efforts by the other elephants, in particular Chamilandu the EOP’s mini-matriarch, Batoka finally started to become
more friendly and to interact with the other orphans. Today Batoka is the fastest growing of the six orphans, with a voracious appetite, and now spends a lot of his
time with Chodoba, who at six years old is the oldest elephant at EOP. Together they can be seen browsing and grazing during their daily walks, where they learn from one another and develop the skills they will need to one day live back in the wild.
To Rescue, Rehabilitate and Release orphaned elephants back into the wild supported by:
elephantorphanageproject@gmail.com.
A project of:
myths & legends
Fables of the Falls F
ables have been told for thousands of years. Through fables we learn how a culture views the world around it, its beliefs on creation and death, and its values. Fables are usually passed on from generation to generation by word of mouth. Sadly, as the world becomes more
technological, fables are lost as elders die. It is important to record these legends so that the wisdom and superstitions of the past are not lost. Following are two of the many fables that have been told by some of the different tribes that have lived around Victoria Falls through the ages.
graze on plants and grass,” he said. But once again, permission was denied. Eventually the Creator relented and the hippo was finally granted permission to live in water, under one condition. He had to emerge daily to scatter his dung, so that all of the creatures could examine it to make sure there were no fish bones in the dung.
The Poor Ugly Hippo A San legend relates the story of the first hippo. The hippo was the last of the animals to be created. It was made up of all the leftovers of those creatures made before. The hippo was embarrassed because he was so fat and ugly. He begged the Creator’s permission to live under the water but was rejected. “With such a large mouth and teeth he would devour all the fish,” thought the Creator. The hippo begged again. “I promise to eat nothing but water by day and I will come out at night to
That is why the hippo lives in water but eats from the land. The Warthog and the Elephant In the beginning, the Creator gave beautiful, enormous tusks to the warthog, and tiny, curled tusks to the elephant. The ugly Hippo
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
Continued on page 15
CRAFTS
The art of basket weaving
baskets, table mats, trays and laundry baskets. Basket manufacture starts with Songiso cutting reeds from beside the Maramba or near the Zambezi River. Half of the crop will be cooked to soften them, and these are then woven around the stiff uncooked reeds which act as a framework.
ZT Correspondent Finese Songiso has been the basket weaver in residence at the Livingstone Arts Cafe since July 2010. Her days at the Arts Cafe are spent weaving and giving workshops to those interested in this age-old craft. She produces
Finese at work
Completing a small basket takes Songiso about one hour; a large one will take between three days and a week. She utilizes several different weaving techniques. Patterns are incorporated using reeds dyed with
the bark from the muzinzila tree which is pounded into a powder and boiled with the reeds to create a deep amber colour. These days Songiso also has the option of using commercial dye for other colours. Born in Palm Grove, a Zambian community close to Victoria Falls, Songiso has lived in the Livingstone area all her life. She was taught weaving by her mother and began making baskets for the family as a small child.
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Zambezi Sun hosts Nathan album launch By ZT Correspondent
R
enowned Zambian gospel music artist and “son of Africa”, Nathan Nyirenda, recently launched his latest album “Life” at the Zambezi Sun Convention Centre. The colourful event was organised by the Cardiac Trust of Zambia for which Nathan is the Heart Ambassador. This initiative was to help the trust fundraise for more heart surgeries which are widely being sought after
Nathan singing live at his album launch
but are not readily available in the country. The lack of facilities for heart surgeries in the country has led to many people spending a lot of money on operations abroad. The funds will help many people with heart diseases to access medical help. Sun International Zambia partnered with the Cardiac Trust of Zambia by hosting the launch at no cost to the organisers in the spirit of sharing as a token to support this noble cause. Speaking at the launch, the Southern Province
Fables of the Falls Continued from page 14 This caused the elephant to become very jealous of the warthog. The warthog’s best friend, the pangolin (a scaly anteater), warned him that the elephant was planning a trick. Despite the warning, the warthog was trusting and one day the elephant told the warthog that he had wonderful tusks and asked to swap them with his for just one day.
Permanent Secretary, Mrs. Gladys Kristafor, applauded the organizers for taking such an initiative to focus on one of the nearly forgotten non-communicable diseases at the expense of the others. The PS also commended Sun International Zambia for supporting this album launch and fundraising event. Nathan Nyirenda also expressed gratitude for being given an opportunity to launch his album at the Falls Resort, which he described as the best launch ever.
The warthog gladly loaned the elephant his tusks, but the elephant walked off laughing, saying that he would never return the wonderful enormous tusks.
is more than enough for both of us, and don’t worry, the elephant will be hunted forever for those tusks. He will never have a real home where he can hide, but you, my friend, shall be safe in our burrows.”
The warthog rushed off and told the pangolin his lament. Warthog was distraught. “How will I dig my shelter now?” The pangolin told him “Dear warthog, you can share my burrows. There
Since that day, generations of warthogs and pangolins have lived safe from predators while the elephant is still being hunted. Especially for his beautiful ivory tusks.
Elephants at play
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
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CHARITY
Rowing the Zambezi for charity A million metres for a million litres
By The Best of Zambia There is a stretch of the Zambezi River, 1,000 kilometres long, from Zambia’s border with Angola to the Victoria Falls. This stretch of river with rapids, rocks, hippos and
crocodiles has never been skulled - up until now that is. In August 2011 a team of men and women will begin this expedition of a lifetime in three boats in aid of the charity Village Water. The team will be lead by Tim Cook who wanted to do something different for his 50th birthday which he celebrates this year. His original idea was to row across
the Atlantic but one of his children suggested he do something less obvious like row the Zambezi River. At first Cook didn’t think this was possible but on further research decided that this was the challenge he was looking for. Today the team includes current and former British rowers, and potential 2012 Zambian Olympian, Antonia Van Deventer.
The group of adventurers aim to raise £50,000 in aid of Village Water which provides sustainable water wells, sanitation and hygiene education to rural villages in Zambia. Hence the project’s strapline ‘a million metres for a million litres’! Visit www.rowzambezi.com www.villagewater.org Rowing boats
www.thebestofzambia.com
Climate Matters
Climate Change school travelling exhibition By: Terry Nyambe
T
he ear th, through geological times, has experienced changes in climate either over long periods of time or induced by some natural happenings over a short period of time. When these changes in climate occurred, they caused losses in living organisms. Some that could not adapt became extinct while others adapted to the environmental changes. In recent years, however, the earth is experi-
encing changes in climate at an unprecedented rate due to human activities. Controlling and coping with these changes in climate have become one of the world’s greatest environmental challenges in the 21st Century. Today, it is estimated that Zambia is losing 250,000 300,000 hectares of forest per year through deforestation. At this rate Zambia will have lost about 75% of her forests by the year 2030. It goes without
saying that this loss of forest goes with the loss of animal species that depend on them. In most cases when people refer to the loss of biodiversity, they always consider species of animals and plants that have a commercial value but what must be noted however is that there are many other species of small mammals, grasses, insects and other organisms that are directly and/or indirectly affected. Some of these have a direct bearing on the quality of life that we enjoy. It’s
Pupils touring exhibition at Musokotwane Basic School
therefore imperative to note that the effects and impacts of climate change cut across the environmental, social and economic sectors of countries. We have seen in recent years that some areas have experienced erratic rainfall patterns which have resulted in low crop yields and yet other areas received more than average rainfall, causing floods, which have resulted in untold destruction of property and human
life. Developing countries like Zambia are extremely vulnerable to the effects of climate change, mainly due to high poverty levels prevailing in the country. In order to reverse the loss of biodiversity by 2015, Zambia must adopt adaptation and mitigation measures to climate change.The first step in achieving these measures is to impart knowledge to the community. It is in this vein that the Livingstone Museum has set up a travelling exhibition to provide an interactive, enjoyable and informed kind of learning on climate change to schools. It is hoped that this exhibition will form a basis of partnership between the museum, schools and other stakeholders. By the end of the programme, it should have stimulated interest in school going pupils to study climate change and other sciences that will contribute to the better understanding of the environmental issues. Near by schools were invited for the lectures and video shows. The schools that came to Mukuni Basic were Nsongwe, Ngandu and
Kamwi Basic schools while Siakasipa, Sinde and Senkobo Basic schools went to Musokotwane Basic School. Due to limited room space, the pupils were divided into groups and presentations were repeated for different groups. The launch of the exhibition at a school was preceded by a lecture and a video titled “Climate Change – The Zambian Challenge”. After the video show the pupils asked questions and clarifications were made. The travelling exhibition started touring schools on 28th January 2011. It has already been to Mukuni and Musokotwane Basic Schools. This programme is meant to be a continuous programme. In November 2011, it is hoped that the exhibition will have been to at least 12 schools and the programme will be evaluated. Assistant Keeper of Ichthyology, Livingstone Museum, P. O. Box 60498, Livingstone. E-mail: terryjnr2002@yahoo.com or terrynyambe@gmail.com
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The Zambezi Traveller
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The Termite Colony
One organism or millions? Objections halt commercial forest logging The area is populated by a Tonga community which used to live on the shores of the Zambezi River and was translocated to make way for Lake Kariba.
In April 2010 the Fly Dragon Wood and Lumber Company was awarded a timber logging concession in the reserve. The Ornithological Society immediately lodged an objection and sought help from other environmental organisations to support their campaign. Due to this pressure the Environmental Council of Zambia called for a full Environmental Impact Assessment on the area.
The forest has been identified as an Important Bird Area (IBA). It is the breeding ground of the African Pitta as well as the seasonal host of the Barred Longtailed Cuckoo, Thrush Nightingale and River and Marsh Warblers. It is also important for the wider area as it borders the Namoomba Elephant Corridor, thus providing sanctuary and foraging for the regional elephant population. However IBA status accords the
The Assessment was duly submitted by the logging company late last year. Once again the Society together with other like-minded organisations submitted objections, and earlier this year the Environmental Council ruled against any commercial logging in the Mutulanganga Forest area. The only door left open for the logging company is to go to the High Court and lodge an appeal, a lengthy and costly process.
wood, grass and other matter provided by the termite workers and this in turn is recycled into food for the colony.
Termite mound in Livingstone
PHOTO: JOHN DAVEY
By John Davey
I
n the Western world, mention of the word termite conjures up associations with destruction of wood floors and valuable timber. The damage has been calculated to amount to billions of dollars every year in the United States alone. Few people realize that whatever curse they might be to humankind, there is also a positive side to termites – they are a vital part of the environment! There are hundreds of species of termite, all with different habits and behaviour, but in this article we will focus on Macrotermes michaelseni because it is this species that is most likely to be encountered on safari throughout southern Africa. This species is responsible for constructing those conspicuous termite mounds, some reaching heights of five meters or more, and in some cases estimated to be 200 plus years old. Each termite mound is in effect a respiratory device
meticulously built to regulate the flow of oxygen, carbon dioxide and water vapor to maintain critical temperature and humidity levels within the mound, a term referred to as homeostasis. The impressive dome structure is made up of a central chamber, hive nurseries and fungal gardens. As many as two million termites live in these mounds and although each one is an individual creature they respond to threats or changes as if they were a single body.The termite order is made up of queen and king, workers and soldiers. The queen has a massive extended abdomen making her conspicuously larger than any of the other termites – she is highly fertile and produces around 2000 eggs per day from her chamber. The queen also far outlives anyone else in the colony and can live for over 10 years. This species has a unique symbiotic relationship with a fungus known as Termitomyces. The fungus thrives on beds of partially digested
The queen and king initially begin as winged termites or “alates.” Usually after the first seasonal heavy rain to soak the crust of the soil, the alates take to the air in their thousands. Few manage to fly more than a kilometer before landing, whereupon, each seeks a mate, discards its wings and locates a damp place to burrow into the soil and attempt to begin a new colony.
Mortality is exceptionally high, because the poor alate features high on the menu for many different creatures; it is exceptionally rich in protein and its arrival coincides with the leanest time of the year after the long dry season. Humans, primates, reptiles, birds and predatory insects will feast upon them; even lions and leopards have been witnessed eating them. Lightly roasted in a pan, stirred with some fresh lemon, they are deliciously crunchy and tasty! Abandoned termite mounds provide ideal homes for many creatures such as lizards, snakes, wildcat, mongoose and certain birds. Hyaenas are known to frequently use burrows made by aardvarks, which have penetrated termite mounds. Research is being conducted by the US Department of Energy to try and determine ways of replacing fossil fuels with renewable sources of clean energy. Termites are being considered as a possible way to achieve this goal through metagenomics. Termites are capable of producing up to two litres of hydrogen from digesting a single sheet of paper. This is impressive for a tiny organism which has been around since the age of dinosaurs.
By Peter Roberts Commercial logging in Mutulanganga Forest, Zambia, has been stopped through community pressure with the help of the Zambian Ornithological Society and other conservation organisations. The Mutulanganga Local Forest Reserve in southern Zambia consists mainly of mopane woodland. The forest covers the headwaters of the Mutulanganga, Bendele, and Lusitu Rivers that flow into the Zambezi River, providing protection from flash floods and gully erosion in adjacent agricultural land and surrounding villages.
area no additional protection under Zambian law.
EDUCATION
Imagine a vehicle with its own roof garden!
Kondwani Yombwe, the winner flanked by classmates, staff and staff
By ZT Correspondent
T
here are no limits when a child’s imagination is given the freedom to follow a dream. Drawing the resulting concept presents another challenge and engages another set of valuable skills.
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A Grade 9 pupil from Livingstone achieved national honours this year when his design won the Zambian Dream Car Art Contest sponsored worldwide by Toyota. Kondwani Yombwe’s entry in the age category 13-15 years won book vouchers worth ZMK700,000, artwork materials and a signed certificate from the Toyota Zambia managing director, Andrew Marshal. Kondwani’s entry goes forward to the international finals in Japan where judges will include the creator of the Dragon Ball anime series, Akira Toriyama, and Toyota Motor Corporation president Akio Toyoda. Prizewinners will be invited to attend an award ceremony to be held in August 2011 at TMC headquarters in Japan. Kondwani’s dream concept car was in the shape of the map of Africa with a rooftop provision to grow plants and grass to encourage the conservation of the environment.
Judges assesses entries in terms of creativity, aesthetics, originality, and presentation. This year’s contest was the fifth in a series that first started in Asia in 2004. Between the first contest and the fourth, Toyota received approximately 60,000 entries. This year’s contest covered 64 countries in North, Central, and South America, Europe, Oceania and the Middle East, with 14 countries representing Africa. The contest comprised of three age categories; children under the age of 10, 10-12 and 13-15.
Kondwani Yombwe
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19
BIRDS
The White-crowned Lapwing
By Bob Sternstedt
and hippos to tread on them. Monitor lizards or legavaans are especially fond of them. If a human approaches, the parent often flops on the ground in front pretending to have a broken wing, in order to lure the potential predator away from the eggs. This well-known habit of ground nesting birds is called “feigning injury.”
O
ne of the commonest birds on the banks of the Zambezi river, the White-crowned Lapwing has been given various names in the past, starting with Black-shouldered Wattled Plover. It is a pity to leave the “Wattled” out of its current name since one of its most remarkable features are the long yellow flaps of skin hanging from the base of the beak. Such adornments are often only exhibited by males, but in this case both sexes have equally prominent wattles. The related bird which is actually named after these flaps of skin, the African, or Senegal, Wattled Plover or Lapwing has much smaller wattles. Now we come to the “Lapwing” part of its name. It belongs to a group of birds which includes the English Lapwing, and is not really a Plover, which is the
name given to a group of smaller brownish shorebirds including the Ringed Plover, Golden and Grey Plovers. The Lapwing of Great Britain and Western Europe is just one bird, but in Africa there are half a dozen similar
It all started with a school atlas ... By Brychan Gilbert
Headmaster, Acacia International School, Livingstone
Geography was my favourite subject at school. Well, my favourite subject after rugby, but in Wales, rugby was more of a way of life than a discipline in school. But my geography teacher was a motivator. One day, on scanning my completed work and finding that it was to his satisfaction, he placed in my hands the Times Comprehensive Atlas of the World. “But Sir, what do you want me to do with it?” I asked, bemused. “Look at it.” He said. And so the pattern was set. Hard work brings its reward, and the reward for me was to discover the world for myself. Since leaving school and university I have been very fortunate to have enjoyed a career in international education as a teacher and a headmaster. The twin forces of globalization and internationalism have driven the growth of international education that is founded on academic programmes like those offered by the International Baccalaureate Organization.
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
White-crowned Lapwing - Vanellus albiceps
Brychan Gilbert
and closely related birds so it has been decided that the term “lapwing” covers this category, and they are all species of the genus Vanellus. Other well-known Lapwings are the Wattled mentioned above, the Blacksmith, and My experience began in Khartoum, where I used to walk each Friday morning to the confluence of the Nile River, a feature I identified in the school atlas many years before. I have had many memorable experiences and prominent among these are walking in the Simien mountains of Ethiopia, along the Great Wall of China with my daughter on my back and of walking in the evening to the San Siro in Milan to watch my beloved Inter Milan who I have supported since I was a young boy. In the same way, pupils at Acacia International School in Livingstone are prepared for a world of opportunity, acquiring knowledge, attitudes and skills which will equip them for the challenges ahead.
the Crowned. The White-crowned Lapwing usually breeds in July, laying three or four eggs on sandbanks in the river. They make no nest, and lay these eggs in a scrape in the bare sand. Like Skimmers, it
One of its most remarkable features are the long yellow flaps of skin hanging from the base of the beak. is a wonder that any of them survive – there are so many snakes and crows to eat them,
The eggs are incubated, but of course in the hot sand this is as much to keep the eggs cool, in the daytime at any rate, and the birds often resort to belly-wetting in order to maintain a moderate temperature. The White-crowned Lapwing is abundant along the whole length of the Luangwa and Zambezi rivers, but not elsewhere in Zambia. Elsewhere in Africa it is along most major rivers with extensive sandbanks, and is widespread in West Africa.
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The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Culture
Events Calendar 2011
Katombora – a Corner of Paradise
By Jo Brown
T
he community in Katombora live a subsistence life on the banks of the Zambezi River. Their livelihoods are directly affected by weather patterns and the ever-changing river levels. They are a fun loving people with a strong social tradition of mutual assistance. The staple diet here is ‘nshima’ (ground maize and sorghum seed – dried on the cob and ground manually into a powder with a heavy pestle and mortar), fresh and dried fish from the river and pumpkin leaves. Luxuries such as cooking oil, sugar and salt need to be traded, and for this cattle are bought and sold. Between June and August every year, huge shoals of Zambezi parrot fish make their way down the river to breed. These fish are bottom
Fishing in the main current
feeders and are not strong swimmers. The Katombora people make fish traps from reeds, which are placed on the river bed, in the main current. These fish traps are the most ecologically friendly method to catch large numbers of fish, rather than the devastating nets that ensnare anything in their deadly path. There is no wastage of any species large enough for the trap; all are either consumed or traded.
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
Nearby this quaint village is a Reform School for teenagers from throughout Zambia who have been caught up in petty crime. The ethos behind this school ensures the young adults receive an education as well as benefit from learning specific skills such as carpentry, plumbing and mechanics, the bedrock skills of communities around the world.
Livingstone
Cansaf was involved with one of their clients in a programme that raised funds to both assist the local village community in repairing their access road that had been washed away by heavy rains, as well as assisting the Reform School to replace a roof that had been blown off one of the classrooms by heavy winds. To celebrate the donations and for the clients to learn more about the school and the community, Cansaf arranged an interactive tour of the area. The group was split into teams which were joined by an equal number of students from the school. Each group participated in games and some of the daily tasks that are performed in the village. Katombora is quite possibly one of the most beautiful places on the Zambezi, with a peaceful ambience that surely has not changed in living memory. The people are a testament that man can live in harmony with nature, and remain an example to us all.
Advertise in the Livingstone Classifieds fjackson@iwayafrica.com Frances Jackson
Accommodation
Accommodation
Chanters Lodge. Stay at Chanters Lodge in Livingstone, great food, wonderful garden with pool, comfortable and reasonably priced rooms in Lukulu Crescent, off Obote Avenue. Phone: +260 213 323412. Email: richardchanter@gmail.com. Http://www.chanters-livingstone.com. twitter/@livilodge
Ngolide Lodge 2kms from town with en-suite airconditioned rooms with DSTV, room safes, telephone, tea/coffee facilities. Double rooms with mini fridge and LCD TV’s. Continental breakfast included. Bar, restaurant. Secure parking, conference facilities. Phone: +260 213 321091/2. Located Mosi-oa-Tunya Road. NEW E-MAIL ADRESS: ngolidelodge@gmail.com. www.ngolidelodge.com Victoria Apartments - Livingstone. Modern selfcontained units with two en-suite bedrooms, fully equipped kitchen, DSTV. WiFi, secure parking and garden. USD116 per suite per night - conditions apply. Next to Protea Hotel, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road. Phone Mark +260 (0) 973313644. Email: va.reservations@gmail.com
Exclusive B&B and self catering accommodation for small groups and families.
Auto Repair
able acommodation in Livingstone town, only 7kms from the Victoria Falls. All rooms have en-suite facilities and airconditioning. Secure parking, beautiful gardens, swimming pool, children’s play area, DSTV, WiFi for guests. Delicious food served all day, licenced bar. Phone: +260 213 322814. Cell: +260 (0) 977681714. Email: info@ zigzagzambia.com. www.zigzagzambia.com
Bennett Engineering. Professional engine assembling, vehicle maintenance and servicing. Skimming of cyclinder heads. Reborrring/skimming engine blocks. Press fit conrods. Test/set/fit injector nozzles. Fitting of cam bushes. Vehicle diagnostic. Import spares from South Africa. Mosi-oa Tunya Road, opposite Spar. Contact: +260 213 321611. Cell: +260 (0) 97830936
Tel: 260 213 327120 Cell: 260 979 959981 info@pranazambia.com www.pranazambia.com Livingstone | Zambia
BED & BREAKFAST BAR RESTAURANT
Zigzag Bed & Breakfast. Clean, comfortable afford
Walk with the Rhino on a 3 hour ‘walking safari’ in the Mosi-oa-tunya National Park. Inclusive pick-up and drop-off, park feees, professional guide, game scout, light breakfast, halfway snacks, cold water/soft drinks. ‘TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE’. Livingstone Safaris, tel: +260 213 322267. Cell: +260 (0) 977450716. Email: geckos@ zamnet.zm
Lusi Beauty Salon and Hairdressers. Barber Shop, manicure and pedicure. Dreadlocks and braids. Facials. Cosmetics and perfumes, ear piercing. Hairdresssings for all occasions. John Hunt Way, opposite Anglican Church. Ca//: +260 (0) 977412291 or +260 (0) 966321136.
Agriculture
Books & Stationery
Airline & Bus Tickets Southend Travel IATA member, Livingstone. Airline reservations and ticketing on domestic, regional & international flights. Free quotation ticketing and reservations for Intercape bus for routes to Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho border, Mozambique. MosioaTunya Road, Livingstone town centre. Phone: +260 213 320241/320773/322128. Skype: southend.travel; email: southend@zamnet.zm
travel in Style! with Mazhandu Family Buses
Getting to your business and leisure desitination has never been this affordable with luxurious comfort and at special fares. Travel with us and enjoy our fantastic onboard customer services throughout your journey.
11.00hrs Capitol Theatre 11.00hrs Phone + 260 979914674
18th June Murder Mystery Evening
15th - 17th July Agricultural & Commercial Show Grounds Royal
Prana Tented Camp Contact Bev info@ pranazambia.com +260 0979959981
Mile Contact Fred Mwendapolo + 260 (0)977852308/ 095585552308
1st Saturday of Month Rotary and
Rotaract Club of Livingstone - Flea Market The Arts Café Contact Sue + 260 (0) 08.30 - 9.30 hrs Livingstone Golf Club. 965888810 Phone Phone + 260 213 327120 or + Wednesday/Fridays Rotary Club Meet 260 979959981 18.30hrs The Arts Café The Ats Café
6th & 7th August Annual Livingstone Polocrosse Tournament Nakatinda Road, Chundukwa Farm
Butchery Fallsmeats Ltd. Top quality meat, biltong and boerwors and many other products. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road. Livingstone town centre. Phone: +260 (0) 979497181
Pauline 0977610400
..
. e to
lcom
We
L.F. MOORE CHEMIST LTD (Established 1936)
Hardware Vadoma Ltd. Suppliers of building, plumbing, electrical materials, paints, carpentry and glue products. Agents for TAP supplies, glass cutting, cement etc. Mosioa-Tunay Road. Opposite Makuni Park. Contact: + 260 (0) 213 322521. Cell: +260 (0) 977141874. Email: vadoma@zamnet.zm
Internet Café Opposite High Court
Pharmaceutical, Medical, Agricultural, Veterinary, Consultancy & Cosmetic. P .O. Box 60005 133, Akapelwa Street, Livingstone Zambia Tel: +260 213 321640 Cell: +260 978 151 070
Fallstech. We specialize in artwork and printing of T-Shirts, lettterheads, business cards, invoice books, designing and mounting billboards. Opposite Makuni Park Livingstone. Phone: +260 (0) 976403088. Email: fallstech@yahoo.com
Fuel Station Engen - Falls Park. Towards Victoria Falls. 24 hour fuel. Convenience store. Phone: +260 (0) 213 322584. Email: ambleside@zamnet.zm
Gift Shop Reflections. Good selection of assorted cards and gifts for all occasions. Falls Park Shopping Centre, Mosioa-Tunya Square. Phone: +260 (0) 977788575.
Daily Departure Times Livingstone 1st Bus 06:00Hrs
2nd Bus 07:30Hrs
2nd Bus 07:00Hrs
3rd Bus 09:00Hrs
3rd Bus 09:00Hrs
Monze
4th Bus 11:30Hrs
4th Bus 10:30Hrs
Ndola
5th Bus 13:30Hrs
5th Bus 13:30Hrs
Kitwe
6th Bus 19:30Hrs
6th Bus 20:00Hrs
Kazungula
Fridays Rotary Club Meet 13hrs Golf Club Golf Club Contact Sue + 260 (0) 965888810
Live Music Nights Feature DanceTheatre Productions Traditional Zambian Cuisine Handicraft Workshops & Curio Shop Exhibits of Local Artists
Chemist
1st Bus 06:30Hrs
Sesheke
Contact Sue + 260 21 3 321579
1878 Mosi oa Tunya Rd., Livingstone, Zambia Phone: 0213 323 346 Mobile: +260 977 37 1700 Email: lipafzm@yahoo.com www.lipaf.org
Lusaka
Livingstone
Choma
Contact
Designing & Printing
Daily Routes
Tunya Road
Tuesdays & Thursdays Yoga classes
Livingstone Bible Room. We sell Christian books and other related materials. Living-Inn Complex. Phone: +260 (0) 977389960
HK Pharmacy and Photo Studio. We offer quality and service. Stockists of medicines, immune boosters, body supplements, vitamins, vaccines. Maternity and baby products, infant formulas. Veterinary and agricultural products. Diagnostic tests. Full range of beauty preparations. Film processing, digital printing. Photographic supplies/digital cameras/accessories. Studio photos/passport and visa photos/portraits. Open Monday - Friday, 08h00 - 18h30. Saturdays 08h00 14h00. Livingstone town centre, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, opposite Standard Chartered Bank. Phone: +260 (0) 213 324296. email: hkp@zamnet.zm
D Deessttiinnaattiioonn M Maannaaggeem meenntt iinn V Viiccttoorriiaa FFaallllss,, LLiivviinnggssttoonnee & & CChhoobbee
Tuesdays - Saturdays Handicraft Workshops - The Arts Café Mosi-oa-
E-mail: unnayee@aol.com
Chemist
Groups,Incentives & Specialist Itineraries
The Arts Café Mosi-oa-Tunya Road
Saturday mornings Childrens Films
Bookworld Livingstone. Selling a good selection of children’s professional, reference and educational books. All at affordabale prices. Stationery items also available. Contact us: +260 (0) 213 321414.
WWW.CANSAF.COM Land Line + 263 (0) 13 43352 Zambian cell +260 (0) 979 717 580 Zimbabwe cell +263 (0) 712 605 063 email cansaf@cansaf.com
Contact +260 21 3 3233460
Beauty Therapy
Flyfishing for tigerfish on the Zambezi River. Text Brett +260 (0) 978725282
Technical Sprayers Services/Crop Serve. We sell day-old chicks, stockfeed for broilers, fertilizers & chemicals, vegetable & maize seeds, chemical sprayers. John Hunt Way, opposite Anglican Church. Phone: +260 (0) 976553035
Tuesday - Sundays Live Performance -
walking/driving along Zambezi Clare Mateke e-mail c. mateke@gmail.com Volunteers Welcome
+263 (0) 712 208 370
Accommodation
Activities
Early July Water Bird Count 10kms
Patmark Ltd. Air-conditioned internet cafe, printing, photocopying, wireless internet access. Open daily. Living-Inn Complex, John Hunt Way, opposite Anglican Church. Phone: +260 (0) 213 322107.
Paint Centre Colortech. We specialise in all kinds of paint, including household, industrial and quick drying paints. We mix colours according to your specifications. Call: +260 (0) 213 320082. Cell: +260 (0) 977882399. Falls Park Shopping Centre, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road.
Restaurants Laughing Dragon Chinese Restaurant. Superb Sichuan Cuisine, take-aways & restaurant. SELFCONTAINED LOCAL ACCOMMODATION. John Hunt Way, behind Post Office. Phone: 260 (0) 213 322555.
Ngolide Restaurant. Indian and Continental cuisine. Famous for Indian curries. Great vegetarian selection. Take-away service available. Groups welcome. Open Tuesdays - Sundays. Located Mosi-oaTunya Road, next to ZRA. Call: +260 (0) 213 321091/2
Take Away Funkey Monkey. Quality pietzas, burgers, baquettes, hot rolls. Open 08h00 to 19h00. Phone Grace: +260 (0) 964394233. Opposite Chinese Restaurant.
Weight Loss WANT TO LOOSE WEIGHT?! The Cambridge Diet works. Contact us at YOURS & MINE HEALTH-CARE SALON. Mirren: +260 (0) 977229210 or Joe: +260 (0) 977884666.
Travel and Booking Enquiries Mazhandu Family Bus Services Ltd +260 211 236494/94 (Office) +260 977 805064 (Hotline) +260 975 805064 (Livingstone) Email: panga@zamnet.zm www.mazhandu.com
RARE SPECIES
Thornicroft’s Giraffe – a Luangwa drawcard By Peter Roberts
FACT FILE
T
hornicroft’s giraffe is a distinct subspecies of giraffe, identified by its dark star-shaped or leafy spot markings which extend down to the lower leg. It is one of two mammal subspecies endemic to the Luangwa Valley, the other being Cookson’s wildebeest.
Thornicroft’s Giraffe
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
Giraffe populations are estimated to total less than 80,000 individuals and are notable for their highly fragmented distribution. There are currently nine recognised giraffe subspecies, differentiated by size and the colour and pattern of the markings on the coat.
Coat patterns are unique to individuals
The giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis) is the tallest of all extant land-living animal species and the largest ruminant. Related to other even-toed ungulates, such as deer and cattle, it is placed in a separate family, the Giraffidae, consisting of only the giraffe and its closest living relative, the okapi, and their extinct relatives. The scientific name Giraffa camelopardalis, denotes that the giraffe was originally thought to be a cross between a camel and a leopard. The giraffe’s ‘horns’ are correctly termed ossicones.
Recent genetic studies have indicated that several of these subspecies are distinct species in their own right, and that the Thornicroft’s giraffe belongs to one of possibly six unique giraffe species. Despite its prominence, limited monitoring and research has been undertaken on Thornicroft’s giraffe. In 2008, the Wilderness Wildlife
Luxury walking-safari camp opens in Luangwa
S
anctuary Zebra Plains opens in June as the first safari camp of its kind in the South Luangwa National Park. With just four tents, two doubles and two twins, the camp accommodates a maximum of six guests to allow a highly personalized safari experience.
All tents have full beds, camping furniture, en suite facilities and flush toilets. Water for al fresco showers is mixed to the preferred
temperature by a tent attendant. The main mess tent has a dining area although most of the meals will be served in the open at selected vantage points. There is also a small library and bar area. The camp will operate from June to October each year. Designed to leave the smallest possible environmental footprint, it will be packed up completely between seasons, leaving no trace of it’s presence.
Trust established the Luangwa Thornicroft’s Giraffe Project to collect baseline information through the development of a photographic database. Coat patterns are unique to individuals and remain unchanged for their entire lives (although shade may change with age) allowing researchers to identify individual giraffe and furthermore track their movements and habits. “Imagine cocktails and canapés as the sun sets over the Luangwa River; hundreds of snorting hippos providing the background music, before sitting down to a three course candlelit dinner served under the stars, with white linen, the finest silverware and the surrounding area filled with lanterns.”
Zebra Plains, Luangwa River Walking Safari
“We have chosen the perfect location in a particularly beautiful and untouched area of the park, perched on a sand bank at the confluence of the Luangwa and Chibembe Rivers,” said a spokesperson
PHOTO: sanctuary retreats
for Sanctuary group. “It was in this park that walking safaris first made their debut and it is undoubtedly one of the most intimate ways to experience the sights, sounds and smells of the bush.
The diversity of habitats surrounding the camp provide for some spectacular walking over terrain with plenty of shade and long sweeping views. Species such as the Thornicroft’s giraffe, as well as the unique Crawshay’s zebra
Luxury, naturally Lodges and safari camps immersed in their natural landscapes
Extraordinary safari camps and lodges Botswana: Sanctuary Chief’s Camp, Moremi Game Reserve Sanctuary Baines’ Camp and Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp, Okavango Delta Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero, Chobe National Park www.sanctuaryretreats.com
Zambia: Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma, Livingstone Sanctuary Puku Ridge Camp and Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge, South Luangwa National Park, Sanctuary Zambezi Kulefu Camp, Lower Zambezi National Park Sanctuary Zebra Plains, Walking Safari Camp
As an iconic symbol of Zambia, the Thornicroft’s giraffe is an important tourism drawcard and thus an economic asset for Zambia. It is currently estimated that fewer than 1,500 Thornicroft’s giraffe remain in the wild. www.giraffeconservation.org, www.wildernesstrust.com
and Cookson’s wildebeest are endemic to the valley. Garth Hovell, widely respected with almost twenty years of guiding experience, will lead walks from the camp twice a day. “On foot your senses are heightened by all that surrounds you to give you the ultimate safari high said Hovell. Guests will spend three nights at Sanctuary Zebra Plains with set departures on Monday or Thursday. www.sanctuaryretreats.com
TRAVEL
New flights link the Zambezi with Cape Town Fact file
Z
ambezi Airlines has announced new flights connecting Cape Town directly with Livingstone and Lusaka. The schedule will start 30 June with flights on Monday, Wednesday and Friday from Cape Town to Livingstone and then on to Lusaka. The return schedule Lusaka – Livingstone – Cape Town will operate Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. The airline has applied for approval to offer a bus transfer service between Livingstone and Victoria Falls that will be published as a Zambezi Airlines ZJ flight number; in the interim this transfer is currently available
from ground operators. Zambezi Airlines is currently operating three Boeing 737-500 aircraft configured for 99 economy and 12 business class seats. The company has offices in South Africa at OR Tambo airport with plans for offices in Sandton as well as Cape Town. Response from suppliers of accommodation and ground services has been overwhelmingly positive. Audrey Keane, Protea Hotels marketing manager (Zambia) commented “Zambezi Airlines’ new link between Livingstone and Cape Town is fantastic and offers huge
Hello Cape Town!
opportunities for Livingstone as a tourist destination.” Zambezi Airlines commenced operations as a domestic carrier in 2008, servicing the Zambian cities and towns of Ndola, Kitwe and Livingstone with a 30-seat turboprop aircraft. In May 2009 it took delivery of two of the Boeings enabling the airline to launch flights between Lusaka and Johannesburg and Dar es Salaam respectively. In 2010, flights were added to Harare and Lubumbashi. The 737-500 are maintained by Jetworx (formerly Saftech) in Johannesburg which is
Flight ZJ290 CPT 08:00 LVI 11:10 Flight ZJ290 LVI 11:55 LUN 12:55
Tue/Thu/Sun Flight ZJ289 LUN 12:15
LVI
13:15
Flight ZJ289 LVI 14:00 CPT 17:10
FAA-approved. Cockpit and cabin crew are highly experienced and undergo regular recurrent training at the FAA-approved British Airways / Comair facility in Johannesburg. The airline’s philosophy of total customer satisfaction is particularly inculcated in the cabin crew and other frontline staff. Contact livingstone@flyzambezi.com
Opening Hours Mon - Fri 12:00 - 22:00 Sunday 12:00 - 17:00 26 Chaholi Rd Rhodes Park Lusaka, Zambia Tel: 0026 0211 253639 0026 0977 856040 E-mail: gerritz@iconnect.zm www.gerritz-restaurant.com
www.flyzambezi.com
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Chongwe River House, Lower Zambezi
Zambia was in the limelight at this year’s Good Safari Guide Awards, held at Indaba in Durban in May. ‘Best Safari Property in Africa’ was awarded to Chiawa Camp in the Lower Zambezi, as well as several other top awards going to Zambian operators. “With over three thousand safari lodges, camps and mobile safari operators in Africa there is a need to differentiate between the good safari camps and operators and those that rise above the rest,” said Rosanne Cobb, Editor of The Good Safari Guide. Recognised for outstanding accommodation, contribution to wildlife conservation and guiding teams. The awards come as operators prepare to open for the summer season; the rains have come and gone and the bush is alive with activity, bursting with colour and wildlife – promising a bumper season for the industry.
Best Safari Property in Africa Winner Chiawa Camp (Lower Zambezi) Best Safari House in Africa Winner – Chongwe River House, Runner Up – Luangwa Safari House Best Mobile Safari Operator 3rd Place – Robin Pope Safaris Best Safari Guiding Team Runner Up – Robin Pope Safaris Best Personal Contribution to Conservation Grant Cumings (Chiawa Camp) Best Contribution to Safari Tourism Winner – Robin Pope Safaris, Runner Up – Norman Carr Safaris
On the festival’s designated Stanbic Day, Tcheka performed to an expectant crowd of well over 1000. Manuel Lopes Andrade, a.k.a. ‘Tcheka,’ was born on the island of Santiago in the Cape Verde archipelago. He began
HIFA 2011
performing at an early age with his violinist father and brothers at local festivities, where every wrong note brought a rap on the knuckles from his father’s bow. Music was the family’s main source of income for many years and their ensem-
ble became a feature at many island gatherings. Tcheka left his rural home to live in Cape Verde’s capital, Praia, becoming a cameraman on national television, Continued on page 24
Tcheka from Cape Verde
Harare’s carnival of the arts ZT Correspondent
T
he Harare International Festival of Arts (HIFA)– is an annual six-day bonanza that showcases local and international artists in a programme of theatre, dance, music, circus, street performance, spoken word and visual arts.
shows for which tickets were sold, and a total of 205 performances; many performances and happenings at HIFA are free, in order to reach as many people as possible, especially those who cannot afford tickets. Of the total 1 256 artists who performed at HIFA 2011,
HIFA was launched in 1999, primarily to provide a platform for the promotion of Zimbabwe’s diverse, talented artists in all major artistic genres, and at the same time to provide an opportunity for them to network and collaborate with artists from other countries, to their mutual benefit. HIFA is a non-profit organisation funded by ticket sales, investments in both cash and kind from private sector organisations, and by donor funding from embassies and NGOs. At HIFA 2011, there were 94
My Dream, disabled Chinese Dance group
987 (79%) were Zimbabwean, while 269 (21%) were visiting from other countries, with a total of 42 nationalities represented. This year, 29 free shows were performed outside the HIFA site, including for the first time, outreach to prison inmates, for whom New York Band, Slavic Soul Party performed. In one example of the support the event receives from many diverse organisations, one main attraction, the acoustic guitarist Tcheka’s performance was supported by Stanbic Bank. Speaking for the bank, Priscilla Sadomba said Stanbic is proud of its association with national events that build a positive brand for the country. “We also managed to have a bit of fun while we did it!”
ConneCting you to Z imbabwe’s f inest ZIMBABWE
Zimbabwe
getting to Lake Kariba, the magnificence of the greater Zambezi River, and the world-renowned Victoria Falls, has never been easier or more accessible, as solenta aviation, based at Harare ZIMBABWE international Airport, now offer shuttle, scheduled and Charter services across Zimbabwe and regionally for Charter.
Zimbabwe
tel: +263 4 788 324/5 email: bookings@solenta.com
www.solenta.co.zw
24
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Continued from page 23 a job that led to travel and broadened horizons. He met Julio Rodrigues, and with him wrote several songs; they played in bars and other musicians joined them. Tcheka’s acoustic guitar is backed by piano, flute, bass, drums and percussion.
Lokua Kanza
Whats On @ Reps Theatre Main Stage May 31 - June 1
VIVA Thai opera group Viva brought to Zimbabwe by Reps for the very first time. Stunning new act featuring a five-person group, featuring a range of operatic favourites. (Subject to approval by the National Arts Council)
3 - 4 June
Gateway School Choir Gateway School Choir presents a performance of its planned tour show for Australia, later this year. 9 - 11June
Swing with Garth Taylor Swing with Garth Taylor, popular South African singer and band. Here for the first time. (Subject to approval by the
National Arts Council)
15 - 18 June
Tumbuka Live on stage. The popular dance group presents a delightful fundraising show. 22 - 25 June
John Vlismas, SA comedian Back by popular demand, Fraser McKay presents SA comedian John Vlismas in a show meant for mature audiences. 7 - 16 July
Mitzi Carruthers’ Gotta Dance Studio Mitzi Carruthers’ Gotta Dance Studio presents its annual dance spectacular. 20 - 23 July
National Ballet The National Ballet Season of Dance 2011, including the ballet Cinderella.
He released his first CD in 2003 and was soon performing all over Europe. His second album in 2005 won Artist of the Year in the Radio France International Music of the World Awards, followed by his invitation to perform at the World Music Expo in Seville, Spain.
HIFA brings immeasurable downstream benefits, via the thousands of Zimbabweans over and above the artists themselves, who are both employed by the Festival, and who are involved in supplying myriad goods and services. HIFA can be seen as one of the most positive happenings of the year in Zimbabwe’s capital, one which brings people from every community together to enjoy an initiative of which all can be truly proud. The same corporate investors, embassies and donors have come forward year by year to support it, demonstrating their belief in its huge value to society and the nation.
JUNE - AUGUST 2011 Upstairs 1- 4 June
Nneka
Whatever Happened To Betty Lemon Sold out at HIFA and now back for four performances only: Whatever Happened To Betty Lemon, starring Ashleigh May. 13 -18 June
The Impro Show Back to delight and amuse, Kevin Hanssen’s Imps present The Impro Show.
June - August Returning to Early Workshop: The Early Art Schools 3rd June- 25th July 2011 S.Mazarire Solo Artist Exhibition 9th June- 25th June 2011 Dominic Maxwell Day of the African Child 6th July - 31st July 2011
So much more than just a butchery! Travellling? Going Fishing? Email us your orders Bond Street Cnr The Chase, Mount Pleasant Shops Tel: 336373/9 Billy: 0772 116451 / 0712 214027 | Email: bilsan@zol.co.zw Biff: 0772 265696 | Email: biff@yoafrica.com
Gwanza Photographic Exhibition 1st Aug - 31st Aug 2011
ALL YOU NEED
21 - 30 July
TO KNOW ABOUT
Happy Haunting and Sherlock Holmes Two plays in Theatre Upstairs directed by Colleen Hardy and Ryan Lawrence.
EXHIBITIONS
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Our incredible journey By the children of Lions Learning Centre, Kariba
W
We spent our first four days on the houseboat ‘Ngoma’ travelling at an average speed of six kilometres per hour, from our school in Kariba town to Devils Gorge at the top of the lake. Most of this time was spent pondering what was ahead and if we would survive. Of course we had lots of time for some typical teenage fun! We started rowing four kilometres down Devils Gorge and started to make our way along the shoreline towards home. We met some very interesting people along the way and saw some incredible sights. One of our aims was to visit every tourist establishment from Milibizi to Kariba, to see it for ourselves, take pictures and hopefully advertise these to the world. We think we achieved this! We found the camps and hotels to be very hospitable and were even fortunate enough to be thoroughly spoilt at Bumi Hills Safari Lodge with game
PHOTO: Anita Mavromatis
e did it! One houseboat, two tender boats, three crew, four adults, seven canoes, 17 kids, 30 days, 546 km, 178 000 paddlestrokes each and a million memories!
SKSOS Kids sitting on rock under waterfall in Sanyati Gorge
The Campaign First taste of bad weather just outside Binga Inner Harbour
drives, meals and a beautiful comfy bed for the night. We witnessed every sunrise, spectacular sunsets, majestic hills and some very unusual trees. After Sijarira, we started to see more and more game and sighted over fifty different species of birds. We learnt lots of survival tips and tricks. We rowed in every type of weather that was thrown at us, including metre-and-a-half high waves across the Sengwa Basin. Each and every day was a blessing even though we still had to do our daily chores. We had to take responsibility and make sure our own clothes were washed, our
canoes were clean and the grown up always had tea! We were put into teams of three and every day one team was on kitchen duty. This meant cooking, serving, clearing and cleaning up. A typical daily routine would be up at 4.30 am, prepare tea and toast, then into the canoes just before sunrise. We would row until around 11.00 am then return to the main boat. Between 11.00 am and 3.00 pm, we would have time to catch up on our diaries, prepare and eat lunch and also have a lesson. Lessons varied from making whip traps and rope out of baobab bark to evasive
PHOTO: Anita Mavromatis
action with dangerous game. Then back into the canoes and row until sunset. The evening was spent cleaning canoes, pulling them up and securing them for the night, preparing the evening meal then meeting for a debrief. With heavy eyelids, the scramble would be on to find a spot to lay out our beds. It was not often that we managed to get our weary bodies into the sack much before 10.00 pm. We will never forget this incredible journey and it has certainly left an indelible mark in our memories and on our hearts. For more stories, more info on our aims and objectives or to donate, visit www.savekaribasaveourschool.com
For many years individuals who have been concerned with Kariba’s wildlife have worked with National Parks to save our habitat and animals. Snare sweeps, antipoaching, and darting injured animals for treatment are only some of the ongoing activities. However the economic climate has meant that sustaining such activities has become more and more difficult. This, together with the need to raise funds for our school, led to the idea of a large fundraising event that would assist our school as well as establish a wildlife protection unit to work with National Parks. In the process the event needed to advertise Kariba as a tourist destination. For the young students of the Lions Learning Centre, the canoe trip has been an education in public relations, event management and sustained endurance. It has given our youngsters something worth fighting for and an apportunity to achieve a set goal. Save Kariba serves as a voice for Kariba and a vehicle for all concerned wildlife enthusiasts and resident business people, understanding that our community is entirely dependent on our natural resources. We hope raise funds to enable us to be effective in preserving, managing and raising the status of our area and its resources. Visit www.savekaribasaveourschool.com Email: info@savekaribasaveourschool.com
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The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
JUBILEE YEAR
Kariba Invitation Tigerfish Tournament - turning 50 this year! By Mana Meadows
W
illiam Green (who turns 99 in August) was one of the 120 pioneering fishermen who participated in the very first KITFT tournament back in 1962. “The Minister of Justice was the man who started it − him and his wife were patrons and were very involved in it. The original place was a bit different from where it’s held today. I remember one of the problems was that the dam wasn’t quite full − so things were changing as far as the surroundings were concerned.” Green, who gave up fishing only 3 years ago was in a team of Enterprise farmers. Unfortunately they were a few minutes over the 4pm cut-off time and were penalised. “The tails of our tigerfish were cut off,” says Green. “Our boat just wasn’t fast enough,” he says, shaking his head at the memory. “I’ve been a few times over the years. I’ve still got a badge from one of those times.”
Fifty years ago, a small Zimbabwean farming community organised a tigerfishing competition on the newly built Kariba Dam. Thirty-three teams participated. This year, a staggering 250 - 300 teams (over 1000 people) are expected to participate in the annual KITFT running from 26th to 28th October. Tournament Director Rod Bennett says he has received many enquiries from teams who have never before participated in the tournament. In addition, many teams who haven’t fished the tournament for years are making the effort this year because it’s the tournament’s 50th Anniversary.
coming back to participate in this year’s competition.
“The Inkwazi Fishing Club − the 1971 winners − are
The record for participation at KITFT was the 1991 Tour-
We have old teams from Australia coming out. It’s a reunion for a lot of the guys. A nostalgic trip down memory lane for many people. It wouldn’t surprise me if there were 400 teams at this year’s KITFT.”
nament where 333 teams took part. Last year 143 teams participated with over 6 countries being represented. This year teams from as far off as Australia, New Zealand, Canada and Iraq and Afghanistan are expected. Nashua, Nissan, Mainstay and Zambezi are still the tournament’s Gold sponsors with Nissan offering a prize of a vehicle for the largest fish caught over 10 kgs. Some surprise guest entertainers will be coming out to perform for participants and supporters. “ This tournament has always been identified as a major social event on the Zimbabwean calendar and this year it’s even more so,” says Bennett.
interview
Cruise safari combo launched at Indaba William Green (98) participated in the very first KITFT in 1962
KITFT has been recognised by IGFA (International Game Fish Association) as one of the greatest game fish tournaments in the world and contestants flock in annually from across the globe. Many are ex-Zimbabweans − some are just enthusiastic game fishermen who come to enjoy the Zimbabwean sun, beer, hospitality − and of course Kariba’s great tigerfishing grounds! KITF T organisers say that there has already been a lot of interest in this year’s tournament because it is the tournament ’s 50th Anniversary.
ZT Correspondent Our correspondent met with Peter Marchussen from Tiger Bay resort on the shores of Lake Kariba to hear about the new joint venture between Tiger Bay and the Zambezi Trader houseboat. ZT: What brought you together? PM: Peter Drummond from Zam. Trader and myself have been family friends for many years and we felt that there was something unique about combining the spacious cruise ship feel and
safari experience in the Ume Basin which is renowned for its tiger fishing and game viewing.
PM: Yes. Zimbabwean tourism is beginning to recover.
Zimbabwe and the SADC countries as a whole. The Zimbabwe Tourism Authority promotion with Oliver Mtukudzi at the beach party and our Minister’s speech definitely promoted Zimbabwe.
ZT: Did you go to the Indaba travel show in Durban this year?
ZT: What difficulties do you have in marketing this region?
PM: Yes we did, in fact we had a combined stand Zambezi Trader – Tiger Bay. We were promoting the cruise safari combo and a six day cruise to Binga. There was definitely a renewed interest in
PM: We still have the problem of the international perception that Zimbabwe is not a safe place to go. This does not encourage tourism. We also do not have regular affordable flights to Kariba. Logistics of getting to Kariba need to be improved.
ZT: Do you think there is a renewed interest in Kariba?
ZT: Why do you think your product is so special? PM: Firstly the size of the Zambezi Trader. It is not a house boat, it’s a small ship! Three decks, 22 airconditioned en-suite cabins, lots of different public areas, combined with Tiger Bay’s facilities where we can cater for large functions like weddings, birthdays and conferences and still give the special safari experience. ZT: You are obviously passionate about this beautiful area and your product. We look forward to hearing some juicy safari cruise stories!
The Zambezi Traveller
Proud Gold sponsor of KITFT 50th Anniversary
Travellers Friend
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28
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
KITFT ORGANISERS
Make a plan its tiger time
F
ishing partners get together, start planning and dreaming of that big one! It’s a week not to be missed, celebrating 50 years of humour and great fishing on Lake Kariba.
When
The ban on pre-baiting and practicing from 06h00 Monday 19th September through to 06h00 Saturday 22nd October 2011 is once again in place and has provided a level playing field for all competitors. The ban is comprehensively enforced by volunteer marshals and any team, third party or individual caught infringing the rule could face a ban of up to ten years.
National Anglers Union of Zimbabwe site, Charara, Lake Kariba. Preparations are already underway, including the building of a new and enlarged weigh bay area.
Bookings for accommodation during the Tournament are well advanced and any prospective entrants are advised to book as soon as possible.There is still plenty of camping facilities with excellent ablutions available at the Charara site and bookings can be made through Dup duPlessis on Harare (04) 497959 or email lemella@zol.co.zw. In addition to camping facilities it is proposed to erect a tent city at Charara, consisting of large fully serviced tents; details will be advertised once plans are finalized. Local hotels still have rooms available, although the distance from the Charara venue is approx 20 km. The usual entertainment in the evenings from Monday through Friday will be provided. A cover charge will be made on all non-anglers for entry to Friday evening’s gala prize giving and party. Full bar and catering facilities will be available. Be there, plan now!
26th – 28th October 2011
Where
The boats head off at the break of dawn
To be part of this year’s special 50th KITFT Anniversary go to www.kitft.co.zw where entry forms can be downloaded. Look out for the KITFT 2010 and Test of the Best 2011 Video which will be showing on Supersport towards the end of June Entry forms will be available from leading angling outlets from mid August and downloaded from the KITFT website www.kitft.co.zw. Queries can be directed to kitft@iwayafrica.co.zw or cell numbers +263 772 269712 and +263 772 420908.
Animal Welfare Watch By Cavan Warren for KAWF
Wildlife emergencies are the daily business of Kariba Animal Welfare Fund. KAWF recently received word from Nzou lodges that Big Boy, a well-known resident bull in the area, had a bad injury to his trunk. KAWF mobilized a volunteer to look at the wound and get a few photos if possible. The photos of what looked like a gunshot wound were sent to Liasa Marrabile of Aware Trust who suggested treating Big Boy with Norodine Bolus, with a dose of 40 huge tablets a day for ten consecutive days. The ladies at Nzou managed to give Big Boy his medication and Big Boy’s wound is now clean and healing well.
The high water level which has flooded all grazing on Antelope Island has made life impossible for 13-odd buffalo. KAWF is now sourcing hay and game blocks; James Odendaal from Harare has volunteered to put together enough hay to last at least six weeks. First prize would be to move the buffalo off the island and to this end a request has been sent National Parks Harare head office, with the support of the local Parks Kariba area manager, E. Gwanyanya. KAWF is thus looking to raise funds both for the feeding program and moving the buffalo off the island. Aware Trust have just completed a hugely successful dog inoculation and sterilization program in Kariba town, at no cost to dog owners! A big thank you to all concerned.
Entry Fee Only USD300 per team, incredible prizes and memorabilia. Don’t forget the Nissan for that big fish.
Stop Press! D o n at i o n s we re received from:-
Kariba Animal Welfare Fund thanks the following for their swift response to the appeal for hay for the buffalo, kudu and impala on Antelope Island. Prime mover in coordinating donations in Harare has been James and Gail Odendaal of Odendaal Stables at the Harare Race Horse Track.
Johnny Campbell (rolled hay equivalent to 100 bales); Matt Hopgood (200 bales); Centra Cattle Feeds (2 tons of cattle pellets with a promise of more); The winning teampolocrosse donated their prize of 5 bags of cattle feed; Peter Moor (local transport of hay and feed); Gail Odendaal (bags of ‘Popped Meilies’); Peter Kalera (transporting to Kariba at a special rate); KAWF (280 kg molasses); Buddy Blignaut (assistance in sourcing molasses and his futile search for salt blocks). All this happened in four days; it was good to watch the buff enjoy their food, but this is just the start. The animals will need much more until they can be moved.
2011 Schedule
Kariba Ferries June
August
21
Kariba - Mlibizi
1
22
Mlibizi - Kariba
2
Kariba - Mlibizi
8
28
Mlibizi - Kariba
9
30
Kariba - Mlibizi
11
27
12
July
15
Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba
1
Mlibizi - Kariba
16
4
Kariba - Mlibizi
5
Mlibizi - Kariba
September
11
Kariba - Mlibizi
12
Mlibizi - Kariba
18
Kariba - Mlibizi
25
Kariba - Mlibizi
26
Kariba - Mlibizi
5 6 12 13 19 20
Confirm all dates well in advance before making any bookings.
Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba Kariba - Mlibizi Mlibizi - Kariba
October 3
Kariba - Mlibizi
4
Mlibizi - Kariba
December 12
Kariba - Mlibizi
13
Mlibizi - Kariba
19
Kariba - Mlibizi
20
Mlibizi - Kariba
26
Kariba - Mlibizi
27
Mlibizi - Kariba
29
Kariba - Mlibizi
30
Mlibizi - Kariba
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
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30
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
LEGEND
Mana Pools loses a legend By Wild Zambezi.com
A
nyone who has stayed in the camps and lodges along the Zambezi river shoreline in Mana Pools will be familiar with a venerable old elephant bull known variously as ‘Slot,’ ‘Oliver’ or ‘Slit Ear,’ (because of a prominent slit in his right ear). Sadly, this gentle giant who had became Mana Pools’ best-known elephant, finally succumbed to illness and died on 31st December 2010, on an island in the Zambezi River opposite the Parks headquarters at Nyamepi. Old Slot had the kindest, calmest nature, and an apparently uncanny trust of the humans who visited
his world. He was instantly recognisable because of the hole in his ear, his brokenoff left tusk, and the way in which he would stroll silently and nonchalantly into camp without hesitation, often moving to within a metre or two of people, with no apparent fear or threat. Yes, he came, as elephants often do in Mana, to browse the apple-ring Albida pods on the ground beneath the chairs, or to pluck idley at the succulent new leaves of the nearest bush. But it was hard to believe that he hadn’t come out of sheer curiosity, to see what we were up to, or to gauge our reaction to his vast, grey bulk, bristly and aromatic, looming over our
The late ‘Old Slot‘
camp table at breakfast time! So famous had he become, that when his death was reported, people wrote from all over the world, sending their pictures, their U-Tube links and their own personal memories of this extraordinary animal.
Classifieds Boating
Tours & Safaris
TAMARIND LODGES - comfortable, budget self-catering lodges in Kariba. Email: tamarind@zol. co.zw. Tel: +263 (0) 61 2697 or +263 (0) 772 880 868. GPS reading: S 16º31’28.6º E 028º 49’19.5.º
MCLINE CANVAS - for all your manufacture & repairs of all boating, safari & outdoor living accessories. Contact: McLine: +263 (0) 772 709 470 or +263 (0) 61 2627. Stand 740 Chawara, Kariba
WARTHOGS BUSH CAMP, KARIBA Clean and comfy budget accommodation. Bar on the lakeshore serving meals all day, every day, from Criselle’s @ Warthogs. Splash pool, kid’s play area, WiFi connection, DSTV. Registered tour operators, for houseboats, canoe safaris, tailor mades. Email: relax@warthogs. co.zw. www.warthogs.co.zw. Cell: +263 (0) 712 201 733/ +263 (0) 775 068 406.
R J MARINE SERVICES - outboard motor service & repairs by trained personnel. Stand 762 Chawara Kariba. Contact Rob: +263 (0) 61 2356/+263 (0) 772 355 561
JAMES MACKENZIE WALKING SAFARIS - We offer canoeing in lower Zamezi. Kariba - Chirundu and Chirundu - Mana Pools. Walking safaris in Matusadona, sunset cruises on Lake Kariba. Contact: +263 (0) 712 770 338; +263 (0) 772 916 991; +263 (0) 61 3771. Email: jamusimack@yahoo.com
Boating
CRISPY FRESH - for all your dairy, beef, pork, poultry, vegetables etc, email: crispy@utande.co.zw. Tel: +263 (0) 61 2880/3024
Harbours CHAWARA HARBOUR - suppliers of all imported beers, local drinks, ice, bait, fuel & oil and the best dry wors & biltong in Zimbabwe. Contact: Colin or Debbie, cell: +263 (0) 774 143 064. Phone: +263 (0) 61 3278. email: debsmac70@yahoo.co.uk
Hardware ENDURA RUBBA PAINTS - for all your requirements of Dulux paints, lubricants, thinners, resin, fibreglass, filters, Eezipool products, V belts & accessories. Contact Nikki: +263 (0) 774 060 717, Tiri: +263 (0) 775 965 547/ 0612325
Restuarants CRISELLE’S @ WARTHOGS. Delicious meals available at Warthogs Bushcamp, Powerline Road, Kariba. Contact: Criselle +263 (0) 772 358 432 or +263 (0) 61 2701.
Thatching Grass Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell: +263 (0) 777560856 or landline: +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: derekdianawilk@mango.zw or wilkinson. diana@yahoo.com
Tours & Safaris AVOCA MARINE - Volvo Penta Sales & Service/Maintenance/Lake Transfers. Contact John or Mike Biss. Email: avoca@iwayafrica.com. Tel: +263 (0) 61 2501; John: +263 (0) 772 233 468; Mike: +263 (0) 772 200 517
DRIFTER & MAKULU HOUSEBOAT CHARTERS - two large pontoon type houseboats available for hire from Chawara Harbour, Kariba. Contact Sonya: sonya@zol.co.zw or tel: +263 (0) 772 874 352.
frequent this area. How privileged we were to be able to have these experiences with him, and he must appear in hundreds of photos of many families visiting Mana Pools over the years. “Slot hit the local headlines a few years ago when a Zimbabwean visitor to Mana Pools became aware that he had a festering abscess on his shoulder. Vets and volunteers were organised and, together with National Parks, they drugged Oliver, lanced and treated the abscess. In a very short time, this wonderful elephant was back on his feet and feeding, showing no aggression or animosity towards his well-wishers.” Slot will be greatly missed - and a wilderness experience at Mana will never quite be the same without him. We wish him well in whatever paradise awaits the world’s great elephants when they die. Truly, it must be an awesome place to better Mana Pools!
Advertise in the Kariba & Lower Zambezi Classifieds sonya@zol.co.zw +263 772 874 352 Sonya McMaster
Accommodation
Food Supplies
Australian TV producer Simon Reeve, of Beyond 2000 fame, sent a note that read: “I just heard of the passing of dear old Slot. Just forwarding a snap or two of him - we had the most wonderful experience with him in Mana two years ago. This is my mate Brad Horn from Epic Private Journeys (we are all Aussies) standing in front of the grand old man. We are so privileged to have met him and will pay our respects to him.” Chipembere Safaris had this report from one of their guests: “One of my most enduring memories is that of one of my first visits to Nyamepi Camp in Mana Pools. Our children were under ten at the time, and our photographs show sunburnt, healthy youngsters with big smiles on their dusty faces. “In many of the prints, there is an elephant browsing nonchalantly in the background. This was Oliver, a well-mannered giant who was one of the magnificent old bull elephants that
MOPANE CRUISES - for all your incentive travel on houseboats & catering, lodges, transfers & day trip bookings Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba. Email: mopani@ zol.co.zw or mopanicruises@gmail.com. Phone: +263 (0) 61 3195. Cell: +263 (0) 772856 319 PESHA SAFARIS - Zimbabwe - Houseboats, canoe safaris, Vic Falls. Botswana - Chobe, Delta, tented safaris. Zambia - Luangwa bush Camps, Exclusive Lodges. Contact us for all your holiday packages and personalised safari itineraries. Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba. Email: pesha@mweb.co.zw. Phone: +263 (0) 61 3121/2247/3181. Mobile: +263 (0) 772 763 916/8.
RETRACTION
01 JUNE 2011
visit
“Please kindly note that an error was made in Zambezi Traveller Issue 3 referring to Mr. Roger Parry as a vet that treated this lion. Mr. Parry is not a vet, he holds a dangerous drug’s license to be able to treat these animals as well as many year’s of experience, and liases closely with the Dept. of Vet Services, Wildlife Unit”
www.zambezitraveller.com
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The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
A working week at Ruckomechi By Daniella Ponter
S
ituated on the western boundary of Mana Pools National Park, Ruckomechi Camp lies on the banks of the Zambezi, shaded by a large grove of acacia and mahogany trees and with a superb view of the escarpment of Africa’s Great Rift Valley across the river in Zambia. The area is renowned for its wildlife, birdlife and scenery.
After the Kariba Water Authority opened three floodgates in January and a fourth at the end of February, the river level was at its highest this year and the camp became a hippo’s paradise as they scrambled for the remaining grass to graze. Now, the grounds have dried out and left lush vegetation and the same beautiful Zambezi River stretching out in front of the camp.
Monday
A
plethora of plains game surrounded and moved in and out of the camp. The usual suspects this morning were impala, waterbuck and the inevitable cheeky vervet monkeys. In addition, zebra, warthog, and of course our resident kitchen-raiders, the elephants, were here. Our dry winter is the beginning of the migration when animals slowly but purposefully move towards the river and congregate.
Tuesday
T
oday, two staff members went on a game drive and came across the resident pack of 15 wild dog. Other predators spotted this morning were two male lions, one identified as the alpha male of our Ruckomechi Pride, and a female sitting majestically in a dry area of
Close encounters
the Ruckomechi riverbed. Later that evening their guttural and haunting calls echoed in the camp.
Wednesday
T
he abundance of insects at this time of the year brings in a variety of birds. The Red-winged Pratincoles have returned en mass. We watched them this afternoon rising and falling on the thermals, a delightful sight against the escarpment on the Zambian side. These migrants have made the flight from the Mediterranean and India to breed near the Zambezi. We also observed a Black Throated Wattleeye (previously Wattled-eye Flycatcher), building a small cup nest into a fork of branches in an enormous Natal mahogany tree.
A
n impala, killed a couple days ago, brought in all the scavenger birds: Marabou Storks, White-backed and Hooded Vultures – all squabbling over the leftover scraps. Noisy Egyptian Geese and the Blacksmith Lapwing echoed in the dusky pink of the early evening.
Thursday
E
lephants en mass! They came in towards the
PHOTO: WILDERNESS SAFARIS
back of camp to feast on the Senna plants and Balanites trees that grow in abundance around Ruckomechi. A lone elephant bull with impressive tusks has been making an appearance every few days in camp. Today we observed him in a comical act as we came for dinner. It began with him standing on a bit of bank between the decking and the river, slowly eating his way through a Thorn Torchwood bush. Once he had had his fill, he wandered within metres of us and gently tested the decking of the boardwalk with each front front foot and then stepped over and gingerly stretched his hind legs over as well. After a brief stop to look at camp, he lumbered off into the red dusk of the evening.
Friday
W
e floated off down the river in our pontoon, and saw buffalo, waterbuck and impala coming down to the river to drink. Floating heads of hippo and crocodiles were peeping out of the river. A final wonderful sighting was that of a herd of eland gracefully moving along the riverbank to sip like ladies and gentlemen at a tea party.
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Clearing roads in Mana Pools By Sally Wynn-Pitman
T
welve volunteers from The 4x4 Club of Zimbabwe and Zim4x4 donated their time, expertise and equipment over a long weekend in April to help the authorities open up a disused road in Mana Pools National Park and World Heritage Site.
Known as the Middle Jesse Road, this 30 km stretch of track which links the Mana Pools access road with the Sapi Safari Area access road had remained unused during the last decade and had become overgrown and eroded. The National Parks and Wildlife Authority were keen to open up alternative routes for tourist vehicles in the park to ease pressure on the Zambezi River floodplain area, and to provide better access to remote areas of the park for anti-poaching patrols. Equipped with sturdy 4x4 vehicles, chainsaws, clippers, axes and plenty
Back standing - from left to right: Alan Sheers; Roger Ellis; Pat Gill; Mike Gill; Dick Pitman; Sally Wynn-Pitman; Margie Gibson; Ranger Max Front standing: Murray Black; Ranger Patson; Wilma Hoefnagels; Effie Boot
of energy and goodwill, the team spent three days opening up the track. The National Parks and Wildlife Authority provided two armed rangers to assist them. “Our biggest challenge was the river crossings,” said Dick Pitman of Zim4x4, who co-ordinated the project in liaison with Zimbabwe’s Parks Authority. “We had to do quite a lot of reconstruction as the gullies were deep in some cases. But there was a tremendous spirit and enthusiasm, and we got right through. “Visitors with well-equipped 4x4s are encouraged to use
the new road, but should be warned that it is still very much a 4x4 route and it is unwise to attempt it alone.” The hardworking team was rewarded with a magnificent sighting of seven wild dogs on their last day. There is also some beautiful scenery along this road – magnificent dry forests and mopane woodland - and the chance to spot two Mana Pools wildlife specials, the shy nyala antelope and the crested guinea-fowl. www.zim4x4.co.zw
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The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
The Sausage tree Know Your Trees
By Meg Coates Palgrave
T
The faded flowers, whether they have been pollinated or not, soon fall to the ground where they are eagerly eaten by many creatures, both large and small. Seedlings have been found in a black rhino midden and raised successfully to prove their identity. One has to wonder if the black rhino becomes extinct, will the seeds of the sausage tree still be distributed? Undoubtedly the sausage tree plays an important part in the wild life of Africa.
here is a historic sausage tree (Kigelia africana (Lam.) Benth.) growing at the point where Namibia’s Caprivi Strip meets Zambia and Zimbabwe, under which Dr David Livingstone pitched camp shortly before he saw the Victoria Falls for the first time. He is said to have carved his initials on the trunk, and although these have long been obliterated, I believe that the tree is still there.
The sausage tree certainly has much of interest. Described as a tree with a short clean bole and a fairly dense crown, it is always recognisable without fruit or flowers because it is usually festooned with what look like thick ‘strings.’ Even without strings it is possible to identify these trees by their leaves. These are compound and usually in whorls of three. They are imparipinnate (cut up Sausage tree fruit like a feather). We all know what a feather looks like. It has a stem in the middle (in a leaf the rachis) and blades coming off the side (in a leaf the leaflets). The leaves have two to five pairs of quite large leaflets with a single one at the end and are roughly hairy on both surfaces. In this part of the world if a tree has pinnate leaves in whorls of three you can be almost certain that it is a sausage tree. The strings are actually peduncles that bear the flowers and later the fruits. The flowers are very striking, dark maroon with crinkly petals and heavy yellow veining on the outside. Widely cup-shaped, they are up to about 15 cm across the mouth and held upright and outwards and contain copious nectar. In fact when a flower is picked it is possible to lick out the nectar. No wonder they are so popular with the monkeys and baboons, as well as birds and insects. But monkeys and baboons eat the whole flower thereby contributing nothing to pollination. To overcome that problem the flowers open in the evening after the monkeys and baboons have retired for the night. The nectar together with a strong smell attracts fruit bats which are responsible for pollination. Although as many as 50 buds have been counted on one string only one or two flowers open at a time. Once a flower has been successfully pollinated and fertilised it sends a message down the string saying ‘mission accomplished’ and all the other buds abort so that the string only has to bear the weight of one fruit.
Sausage tree flower
Sausage tree
As a fruit can weigh up to 10 kg that is that is actually quite important. Although called a ‘sausage’ the fruit bears more resemblance to a salami, polony or loofah. It is more or less cylindrical and can reach a size of up to 1 m long and 18 cm in diameter. It has a hard shell with numerous seeds embedded in a dense fibrous tissue. The hard shell and fibrous inside probably make the fruit unpalatable. Although baboons and monkeys may have a nibble while the fruit is young and still on the tree, it is probable that only porcupines and black rhinos and maybe bush pigs eat it after it has fallen. These trees are unique to tropical Africa occurring from Eritrea and Chad south to northern South Africa, east to Tanzania and Mozambique and west to Senegal and Namibia. It belongs to the family Bignoniaceae in a monotypic genus, a genus with a single species. It is quite variable over its range but nevertheless always recognisable.
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
33
Read Steady Cook SIYAVONGA CHALLENGE
Siavonga Style!
I
n an effort to promote S iavo n ga a s a ma j or tourist destination, the hotels in Siavonga are working together to develop various events that their loyal Zambian guests and residents can enjoy and participte in.
RULES Cooking start time 11.00 hrs Cooking finish time 18.00 hrs. 1.5kg of lamb on the bone is included in entry price all other ingredients to be supplied by entrant. Only meat supplied by organisers may be used. Pot must be able to feed 8 persons
POTJIE COMPETITION 16th JULY 2011 16th July 2011 Potjie Competition will be held at eagles rest. Everyone and anyone is encouraged to enter. Entry fee is k150, 000 per pot. One plate must be supplied to judges free of charge, two plates to go to the chef. The remaining five to be sold to the spectators at k50,000 per plate and proceeds to be given to charity.
Master Chef Siavonga 13th AUGUST 2011 “Master Chef Siavonga”, the participants can bring with them as many cook books and utensils as they like but we will supply the ingredients
and they will not know what it is until they are given it on the day. They will then be given 4 hours to produce a 2 or 3 coarse meal from these ingredients that has to be cooked on the beach on fire.
Wipe Out – Siavonga Style! 10th SEPTEMBER 2011 “Siavonga Wipe-out Challenge”Siavonga style of coarse, based on the UK and USA TV program. Teams will be eliminated on the same principal as the TV show and the games will be water and beach based but not quite as high-tech as the TV show. The event will be followed by the ever popular Potjie Competition.
The ’Belle launches dockside dining and berths W
ith only six months of successful cruising behind it, the Protea Hotel Southern Belle has already seen its first marriage proposal on board and will in the next year be the site of several nuptials. Protea Hotels Zambia Chairman Mark O’Donnell said reservations were looking rosy. “We’re getting lots of queries about our two-night set cruises over the second and last weekends of each month. The vessel is also being booked for private functions and corporate charters. “Due to the demand for accommodation in and around Siavonga we are offering overnight stays on board the Southern Belle when it is stationed at base. The restaurant on board is also open to the public when the Belle is docked. Reservations are essential for these facilities,” O’Donnell said. The Top Billing crew were aboard the Southern Belle in April 2011. The crew enjoyed fishing on Lake Kariba as well as a cultural experience in a rural village. The feature was aired in May on SABC3.
The floating hotel and conference centre underwent extensive refurbishment last year and features 21 luxury en-suite cabins with steamboat era design elements. The vessel features a conference room for up to 40 people, shop, restaurant, bar, swimming pool and a top deck with comfortable lounges and bar. Activities for children include a cinema with videos and popcorn.
“Guests on board have especially enjoyed fishing with some great catches. International guests have enjoyed the cultural tour at the local village, interacting with the villagers and learning about their traditional way of life,” said O’Donnell. www.proteahotels.com
Annual Tiger Challenge – please diarise!
10th and 11th DECEMBER 2011 The third annual Siavonga Tiger Challenge which will be held from 9th to 11th December 2010. The timing of this event has been chosen to coincide with the closed fishing season in Zambia as no sports fishing takes place on the rivers from November to March each year. We are hoping therefore to attract a large number of local anglers and hopefully in the future develop the event as an International Competition. If you would like any further information on any of our events please contact one of the below listed people and we will send you the information needed.
Siavonga Challenges Committee For More Details on Above Events visit www.siavonga-zambia.com KAREN – 0955 755291 eagles@siavonga-zambia.com PETER – 0978 884012 eagles@siavonga-zambia.com Contact Eagles Rest Resort on 0955 755291 / 0978 884012 / eagles@ siavonga-zambia.com
Chobe is Botswana’s wildlife stronghold Aerial survey provides good and bad news
Buffalo and Zebra
photo: Kelly Landen
Ariel shot of a herd of elephant
photo: Kelly Landen
A herd of Sable and their young
photo: Kelly Landen
beest and hippo. The team also recorded observations of selected large birds: wattled crane, ground hornbill, saddle-bill stork, fish eagle, lappet-faced vulture and bateleur. Baobab trees were assessed with note taken of size and possible damage. Elephant carcasses and bones were recorded, as well as additional notes on environmental conditions such as bush fires and the structural integrity of fence lines. In the tribal grazing areas, cattle were also counted.
Giraffe and kudu
photo: Kelly Landen
By Kelly Landen lephants Without Borders (EWB), with the support of Botswana’s Department of Wildlife and National Parks, recently completed flying a major aerial survey counting wildlife species throughout northern Botswana.
flight line total of 25,598 km, covering a total of 73,478 km2, which included the National Parks of Chobe, Makgadikgadi, Nxai Pan, Moremi Game Reserve, the Okavango Delta and the surrounding Wildlife Management Areas in the Ngamiland, Chobe and Central districts.
The project was led by EWB’s founder, and San Diego Zoo scientist Dr. Mike Chase, coordinated by EWB’s program manger, Kelly Landen and piloted by Mike Holding from Afriscreen Films. The survey took nearly 250 hours of flying time, a
The survey ’s sampling intensity averaged 20% in comparison to 5% during previous surveys and is the first independent fixed-wing aerial survey to provide concession level estimates for wildlife populations in Botswana.
E
Astonishingly, numbers of animals in northern Botswana have fallen substantially within the last 15 years.
Wildlife species counted included: elephant, roan, sable, zebra, giraffe, gemsbok, eland, kudu, impala, lechwe, springbok, buffalo, tsessebe, hartebeest, warthog, wilde-
Botswana conducted its first systematic aerial survey in 1993 followed by seven subsequent surveys, lastly in 2004. The new data allows for a comparative analysis of wildlife distribution, abundance and trends over time. Some of the results were u n e x p e c t e d . A s t on i s h ingly, numbers of animals in northern Botswana have fallen substantially within the last 15 years. The exception is elephant numbers which in northern Botswana have remained at a constant 130,000 since 2003. Wildebeest declined by a staggering 90%, and remain at a small fraction of their past numbers.
In Ngamiland there has evidently been a district wide halving in the abundance of giraffe, kudu, lechwe, ostrich, roan, tsessebe, and warthog. However, in the Chobe district, there has been a very different trend. The wildlife populations within Chobe have remained fairly stable. In 1996, elephants doubled their Chobe population to 60,000, likely due to movement from neighboring concessions allowing hunting the previous year.
A big five safari destination! Kasane – Chobe – Botswana
Lodge and Camping Accommodation: A variety of options from family and twin rooms with ensuites in our lodges and camping. All amenities including a bar, restaurant and swimming pool. Activities: Chobe National Park game drives and boat cruises are available daily. Chobe Day trips from Victoria Falls or Livingstone include breakfast and a lunch cruise – an all day activity. Mobile safaris: Explore Chobe, Savuti, Moremi, Okavango, Nxai Pan, Makgadikgadi and Deception Valley. Choose from budget, semi participation, semi-luxury or tailor made safaris.
Telephone: +267 6250 995 / Fax: +267 6250 314 Email: thebe@chobenet.com / www.theberiversafaris.com
Situated in the Heart of Kasane we offer the following; » Chobe Full Day Trips – Options available » Victoria Falls Day Trips – Options available » Game Cruises | Game Drives | Fishing Trips Transfers to and from Vic Falls, Zambia and Namibia We can tailor make your safari to suit your specific needs be it a Game drive or Boat cruise. Our reservations team operates 24 hours a day to conveniently book your safari or just that simple enquiry you may have. All our guides are professional at what they do and they will leave a lasting impression of your visit to Botswana.
Time is for spending; spend it wisely with Chobezi Hylton Ross Touring Safari, and it will be time well spent. Call us on +267 6250992, 6251667 Fax +267 6251297 Emergency 24 hour Mobile +267 76201918 E mail: info@chobezi.com, operations@chobezi.com chobezi@yahoo.com
Since then, elephant numbers have remained similar in Chobe, as well as buffalo, giraffe, kudu and zebra. There has been a slight decrease in roan and ostrich estimates. However, sable and lechwe numbers have doubled; eland and tsessebe have tripled; impala and warthog are now ten-fold; and hippo number in the hundreds. It was noted that woodland species (sable, kudu, eland) have shifted from Chobe National Park into the Chobe Forest Reserves, likely due to the habitat change along the riverfront. Throughout Africa, land use, habitat fragmentation, vegetation changes, drought effects, veterinary fences, fires and poaching have been cited as contributing factors to the decline of wildlife. However, as this study shows, conservation management requires a good understanding of wildlife population dynamics and reliable estimates of population densities. It is places such as Chobe that people visit to experience Africa’s beautiful scenery and plentiful wildlife, to be treasured and protected for future generations. www.elephantswithoutborders.org
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
35
Part 5
History of Chobe National Park
The legacy lives on for another early resident of the Chobe area apprehended, disarmed and frog-marched a SWAPO cadre all the way to the police station in Kasane, 15 kilometers away.
Agnes Lungu nee’ Muyaluka , Samuel Lungus daughter Bontle, Regina Lungu and Samuel ( Agnes , Williams daughter, Bontle, Williams great grand daughter, Regina, Williams grand - daughter and Samuel, Williams grandson, sitting in one of their own vehilcles.
By Judy Hepburn
T
he late William Muyaluka mentioned in our last edition was another memorable character who witnessed the establishment of the Chobe National Park and the surrounding development in the early days. He had been employed by Peter and Maureen Gibson to care-take their holiday home at Serondella and he lived through a great many changes in the Chobe National Park and the tiny village of Kasane as it was then. Muyaluka was born in Zambia circa 1920 and came to the then Bechuanaland Protectorate with his uncle in the 1930’s, and may have headed to South Africa as young man to work for a time on the mines. Jonathan Gibson was a young boy when he first met Muyaluka. The Gibson family came to Serondella in the early sixties and Muyaluka began a long relationship with them. Gibson remembers him with great affection and recalls his diligence and honesty in all the years of his service with the family. He was even recruited for the odd game of touch rugby!
Sketch of the late William Muyaluka done by a Les Charnock, a visitor to Chobe National Park in 1985
Muyaluka’s time in Serondella was both interesting and busy. He and other residents of the settlement waged a daily battle to keep elephants and baboons from demolishing fruit trees, gardens and buildings, armed only with tin cans, rustic scarecrows and even, in Pop Lamont’s case, homemade hand grenades (jam tins loaded with pebbles and dynamite). There was a more serious war being played out across the river in what was then South West Africa. The Botswana Government remained neutral throughout the war of independence, but was strict about the illegal importation of arms and ammunition. On one occasion Muyaluka, who legally owned a .410 shotgun,
When Gibson’s parents finally lost title to the Serondella property, Muyaluka moved into Kasane where he lived with his daughter and her family. In 1982 Gibson returned to the Chobe National Park to take possession of Chobe Game Lodge which had been closed since 1978. During the interim years the family had kept in touch with Muyaluka and Gibson welcomed him back into his employment. His duties were limited as he was then well on in years but he was a beloved member of the staff at the newly renovated lodge. M u y a l u k a’s d a u g h t e r Agnes Lungu, now aged 60, still lives in Kasane with her expanding family. The second generation of Muyalukas have a wonderful legacy from their grandfather. Three of Agnes’s older children, Regina, Samuel and Benjamin, have together made a name for themselves in the industry, establishing one of the first local safari companies, Lungu Tours and Safaris. Samuel was one of the first Chobe-born qualified game guides and he vets and employs guides for their company while working as a senior guide for the long-established Into Africa Safaris. Muyaluka would be very proud to know that his grandchildren continue to contribute to development of the tourist industry in the Chobe region. Serondella was never totally forgotten; Pop Lamont was triumphant in his efforts to live out his life there, and some of the early overland safari companies used the western boundaries of the old settlement as unofficial campsites. How I wish I could talk to the trees!
Mario’s Meat Market
PRIME CUTS Beef, chicken, lamb, pork and game meat
Wors, Mince, Biltong, Dry Wors and MUCH more
Kazungula-Kasane Road, behind Buy’N Build Kazungula WE TAKE ORDERS Ph/Fax: +267 625 1222 avantu@botsnet.bw
Ariel view of the Kasane floods
PHOTO: GRANT NORVALL
Living on the edge By Kelly Webster (Student, 17 yrs)
E
very year in Kasane there is a ritual before each flood season, with the inhabitants predicting the height of the flood, and a heated debate always follows. There are the usual viewpoints such as the doomsday sayers who every year reckon it will be the highest since ’58, and we are all goners. Then there are the hopefuls which usually includes all the inhabitants who live on the banks of the Chobe, who keep desperately optimistic that this year the flood will magically disappear. My family is generally part of the latter group, as we live closer than most to the river,
Spicing up the Cuisine in Kasane Long-time residents and business owners in Kasane, Sanjay and Ashok, have taken the initiative and opened a restaurant specialising in Indian cuisine in the heart of the town. There are few travellers who do not enjoy the unique flavours of the east and actively seek out an alternative to routine Western fare. Sanjay and Ashok’s well-known pizza take-away has been reborn with seating inside and out, providing a full range of dishes from the kitchen under the command of an Indian chef. Pizza and continental food is also on offer to suit the uninitiated, and the wine and beer list is comprehensive. It all combines for a relaxing break after a hot day in the Botswana sun.
and every year we live in a state of anxiety as April approaches as everyone desperately hopes for a low or nonexistent flood.
the past few years has been knee-deep in water every April, proving very inconvenient for the locals.
For the past four years the ‘doomsday predictors’ have been rather close to the mark as it has risen higher than in the previous 20 years that our family has lived here. We’ve been flooded the last three years out of five, causing us to pack up our house in a matter of hours and move to higher ground, with serous help from a few very patient friends who have helped us move every year.
But now avid fisherman would be very impressed at the luxury of being able to fish off our veranda. Also there have been a few instances that not many other people can say have occurred to them, like waking up in the morning with hippo or croc on your front lawn which has happened to us on a few occasions, much to the dismay of the gardener.
There are slight advantages to having the river so high, though everyone now has to get their feet wet if they want to sit in our local pub which for
When you think about it, the few inconveniences once a year are a small price to pay for being able to live somewhere so beautiful.
Pizza Plus
Coffee&Curry
IN | CONT INDIAN | CH I N E S E
ENTAL | PIZZA
Open Monday to Sunday 09:00am - 10:00 pm If opening times and days change, notice will be given.
Located at the centre of Kasane town, easy walk from most hotels in Kasane, Chobe. Take Aways available Tel: 00267 6252237
36
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Bird Count
BirdLife Botswana to the rescue By Pete Laver
I
n 2014 the world will reminisce on the 100 years since the death of Martha, the last passenger pigeon. Martha died in the Cincinnati Zoo only to be stuffed, mounted and lost by museum staff. She was the last of approximately 5 billion passenger pigeons – considered the most numerous bird of all time and considered inextinguishable during the 1850s (just 40 years before the last wild flock of 250 000 birds was indeed extinguished in one day by
Act Now BirdLife Botswana urges you to give your “common” feathered friends a second thought “sportsmen” in 1896). Fortunately, in 1900 members of the Audobon Society decided to count rather than shoot birds
during the annual Christmas Side Hunt. The Christmas Bird Count has since helped Audobon conserve birds through monitoring longterm population trends, allowing them to take action when downward trends first appear. BirdLife Botswana initiated its own long-term monitoring scheme in 2010. Each February and November, volunteers of all expertise count birds for two hours at the same 158 locations nationwide. Early data indicate that the most numerous birds in Botswana
Helmet Shrike and chick
are the Cape Turtle Dove, Redbilled Quelea, Barn Swallow and Whitebrowed Sparrow-weaver. Taking all species together it appears that bird abundance in Botswana is not related to habitat type or conservation status (national park etc.) but increases away from human settlements and towards large wetland areas. Interestingly,
Advertise in the Chobe Classifieds teddy@yoafrica.com Teddy Brightman
Accommodation vv Nine SC thatched campsites with power and own ablutions. Three SC chalets, each sleep up to 4. Bar overlooking waterhole. Located 8km from Kazungula on Nata Road. Phone +267 718 81306 or +267 718 26709. Www.senyatisafaricamp.co.bw Email: senyatisafaricamp@gmail.com
Automotive Auto World. Spare parts and accessories for all local and imported vehicles. Opposite new bus rank, Kasane. Phone +267 625 2777, Fax +267 625 2666.
Bureau De Change Cape 2 Cairo Bureau de Change. Shop 14/14 Hunters Africa (new arcade – Spar complex). Tel: +267 625 2483. Cell: +267 721 16479. Also Kazungula Junction, Shop 1E.Tel: +267 625 2485 or +267 625 2193.
Coffee Shop Coffee Buzz, now open in Kasane. Breakfast, lunch, daily specials. Open Mon-Fri 7.30am to 2pm. On Kasane main road at Kalahari Tours. Phone +267-713 18956.
Computers and Internet Kasane Computers. Internet café, WiFi zone, photocopying, laminating, binding, typing, rubber stamps, ink cartridges, toners, CD/DVDs, PCs/ Laptops, Printers, PC repairs and more. Offices – Audi Centre, Kasane (opp. Chobe Marina Lodge) and Kazungula Junction (near Engen Garage). Phone +267 625 2313 or Fax +267 625 2537 or email: info@kasanecomputers.com
Zambezi Traveller website at www.zambezitraveller.com
01 June 2011
Lovely Lesoma! Enjoy the tranquility of unspoilt bushland only 20kms from Kasane and Chobe NP. 10 lovely A/C ensuite rooms, with swimming pool and BBQ area. Game drives, boat cruises, night drives and walking safaris on offer. Easy access from Zimbabwe and Zambia borders – transfers available
photo: Kelly Landen
diversity seems to increase towards settlements but is not associated with other factors mentioned above. We have several candidates for our own “Martha” – species that although numerous are often overlooked, under-appreciated, and also considered inextinguishable. BirdLife Botswana urges you to give your “common”
DREAMS SAFARIS
Itenge Dry Cleaners & Laundry Services at Kasane, cnr Chilwero & Zambezi Road, next to AutoWorld. Phone: (+267) 6250 772 or (+267) 7130 9839. Email: itenge@gmx.com
Fishing Safaris
Safari CLothing African Safari Clothing. T-shirts, shirts, trousers,m shorts, Hi-tech boots and shoes. Wolverine boots. Jackets, fleece, sleeveless fleeces, sarongs, caps, jewellery, soft toys and Botswana fridge magnets and much more. Edglo Shop, opp. Kasane Primary Hospital, Kasane. Ph: +267 716 17677. Email: edgloshop@yahoo.com
www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw
+263 712 217 178
Dry Cleaning and Laundry Services
Chobe Fishing Adventures. For beginners and serious fishing persons alike! 3 hour, half and full day trips available. To book call Michael (00267) 717 71753 or Jo (00267) 716 17602 or email us at chobe_fishingadventures@yahoo.com
feathered friends a second thought and perhaps appreciate how exquisite even the lowly Turtle Dove can be. To get involved or find out more about the worthwhile projects BirdLife Botswana runs, contact our headoffice in Gaborone or branch in Kasane
Chobe Day Trips
Game drives, boat cruises, border pickup. Livingstone and Victoria Falls day trips Cultural village tours No 1 Lady Travel Agent Beside Spar complex, Kasane Ph: +267 625 0131 or +267 716 25521 jeilatravel@yahoo.co.uk joyce.chika@yahoo.com
Panel beating, spray painting, gearbox and engine repairs, tyre services. General engineering & machining jobs, skimming of cylinder heads, drums and discs Pula Street, Kazungula Industrial Site. Phone +267 625 2231 Fax +267 625 2212
We offer....... * Game drives * Boat cruises * Fishing * Walking safaris * Night drives * Bicycle riding * Mobile safaris
Contact: +267 625 0332 Cell +267 7184 6965 or +267 7317 4300 Email: dreams@botsnet.bw misto_bw@yahoo.com.uk www.dreamssafaris.com
P O Box 40, Kasane, Botswana Tel: +267 625 0384 Fax: +267 625 0223 Email: chobe@mega.bw
Contact: Lenny: +267 7217 2074 or Lincoln: +267 7246 7576 Reservations : +267 7556 1096 Email: lesomavalley@brobemail.co.bw
African Safari Jewellery Elephant hair bracelets handcrafted in gold and silver by Peter Hepburn Available in Kasane, Botswana at the Audi Centre (next to coffee shop, opposite Chobe Marina Lodge)
Kasane Christian Bookshop - New stock Bibles, books, CD/DVD’s, flowers, wreaths, gifts and more. Moved to front of Audi Centre
Phone: +267 6250 254 Fax: +267 6250 810 Email: cbhsaf@botsnet.bw or judy@chobenet.bw
Shop 14/15, Hunters Africa (New Arcade - Spar Complex) Fax/Tel: + 267 625 2483 Cell: + 267 721 16479 Shop 1E Kazungula Junction (Next to Engen) Tel: +267 625 2485 / +267 625 2193
Botswana’s Megatransect By Thoralf Meyer and Kelley Meyer
O
n a global scale, carbon is mainly stored in oceans, the atmosphere, vegetation and soils. Recently, carbon credits have become an asset which is traded on the world’s open market, where polluting countries buy or trade carbon credits from non-polluting countries. For the past six years, a team of researchers from the University of Virginia, University of California - Los Angeles (UCLA), and Princeton University have established a vegetation-carbon transect spanning the whole of Botswana’s western Kalahari.
Mapping root structure from excavation plots where the roots are dug up using an airspade and the more traditional method of shoveling
Taking spectral readings, a necessity to upscale findings using satellite imagery
This work, which is timeconsuming and expensive, is providing new insights into how savannah vegetation cycles carbon into and out of the atmosphere.
For the Kalahari ecosystem the total carbon budget is yet unknown. The team’s work will answer the question if there are potential benefits to local communities and the country to benefit from the global carbon trade.
The fieldwork consists of two primary components: the above ground work involves sampling that megatransect every 40 km and taking hundreds of measurements of trees to measure biomass and therefore carbon by species, as well as over 500 readings per site using specialized equipment that mimics what satellites see from space. These meas-
The Botswana Megatransect, running 950 km from Shakawe to Bokspits, is funded by the US National Science Foundation. The primary goal of the research is to accurately estimate carbon storage in the Kalahari and assess how that storage changes along the north-south precipitation gradient and with land use. What is unique about the team’s research is they aren’t limiting themselves to measuring carbon above ground but are excavating root systems below ground as well.
urements are incorporated with below ground excavations, where roots are mapped, excavated, and weighed for also estimating biomass and carbon. The research not only provides insights into the carbon budget but also provides information on how the ecosystem will change under different climate change scenarios. This is made possible by the team’s decision to align the megatransect along Botswana’s natural north-south rainfall gradient, and selection of sites of similar vegetation composition along that gradient. To further extend their results, the team uses imagery derived from satellite systems, allowing them to analyse areas greater in expanse than can be
surveyed and to extend those analyses back in time with archived satellite imagery. The ultimate benefit of this work for Botswana is learning how land management strategies can be tooled to benefit local communities via, for example, working with carbon offset programs. There are also more local but equally critical benefits from of the project as well. For example, several University of Botswana students have participated in the research. The program is also supporting a government employee currently enrolled in graduate studies at UCLA to then come back to Gaborone to train others in his department. This type of capacity building has long been called for by Southern African countries
CAMPING FEES For camping fees the following companies must be contacted: Xomae Group
Kwalate Safaris
Big Foot
S.K.L. Group
Third Bridge, Wilderness, Xakanaxa, Maqwee, Ihaha Savuti, Khwai, Linyanti Baines Baobab, Nxai Pan Camp - +267 6861448 – +267 6865365 – reservaSouth - +267 6862262 – kwalatesafari@gmail.com tions@sklcamps.co.bw xomaesites@botsnet.bw Dr. Greg Okin at one of the exaction plots
+267 3953360
For Park Fees see under Botswana on the Park Fees page
Old World Safari Charm B O T S WA N A
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Head office Maun, branches now open in Kasane, Lusaka and Livingstone for Custom Built Aluminium boats and steel ferries.
Power Serv (Pty) Ltd trading as Aliboats Private Bag 62, Maun, Botswana Tel: +267-6860201 Fax: +267-6860714 e-mail: info@aliboats.co.za
Tel: +267 686 0981 or +267 686 1634 Cell: +267 7132 6085 kkreservations@ngami.net www.menoakwena.com
Maun Rod Bateman rod@aliboats.co.za +267-6860201
Kasane Digby Bullock digby@aliboats.co.za +267-6252218
Lusaka Wessel Steyn wessel@aliboats.co.zm + 260-969510963
www.aliboats.com
Livingstone Mark Weeks mark@aliboats.co.zm +260-967510961
38
The Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Where does the River go? By ZT correspondent. and south and east to the Makgadikgadi Pan via the Boteti River.
G
eographically described as “the river that never finds the sea”, the Okavango Delta in northwestern Botswana disappears in a 6,000 square mile maze of lagoons, channels, and islands. It is also said that it is the largest inland delta in the world. Two million tones of sand and silt flow into the delta through a complex river system, yet less than three percent of the water emerges at the other end to either flood Lake Ngami or cross another 300 miles of the Kalahari, then to enter Lake Xau and the Makgadikgadi Pans. It really is Africa’s largest and most beautiful oasis. The River Okavango, which rises in the highlands of Angola,
Can’t find a package to suit your needs? Let us create a custom package for you. Overnight Okavango Delta Trips from US$145.00 pp Overnight Chobe Camping Trips from US$215.00 pp
We look forward to showing you Botswana! jody@dumelabotswana.com Tel: +267 75001315
www.dumelabotswana.com
The Okavango offers an oasis of habitat for prolific plant and animal life in a personified state of “balance in nature.” Two plants dominate the Delta’s perennial swamps: papyrus, giant sedge (type of grass) which grows naturally only in Africa, and the willowy phoenix palm.
PHOTO: KELLY LANDEN
Buffalo in the Okavango Delta
never reaches the sea; instead its mighty waters empty over the sands of the Kalahari. Deep water occurs in only a few channels, while vast areas
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Contact : Joe Myburgh P.Bag BO 30, Boseja, Maun, Botswana Tel: +267-6862236 Fax: 267-6862190 Cell:+267-71303808 Email:joe@maunphotolab.com
of reed beds are covered by only a few inches of water. The Okavango is the last surviving remnant of the great Lake Makgadikgadi whose waters and associated swamps once covered much of the Middle Kalahari. It also is closely associated with the Kwando, Linyanti, and Chobe swamps and river systems to the northeast. It is thought that long ago the Okavango, Chobe, Kwando, and upper Zambezi waterways flowed as one massive river across the Middle Kalahari, to join the Limpopo River and then to the Indian Ocean. A complex system of faults directs the flow of the Okavango River and its myriad of channels.
Myriads of waterways
The present Okavango is still connected to the ChobeZambezi River system via the Selinda Spillway. However, recent arid conditions have meant that these water courses are now seldom joined. The geology of the Okavango is still inherently unstable, as the faults continue to move and earth tremors occur. Channels become filled with sand and
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PHOTO: KELLY LANDEN
debris, and massive plugs of papyrus interrupt their flow. The pattern of drainage in the Delta will continue to change. Interior drainage systems occur typically in arid areas where water evaporates to leave an accumulation of salts as a saline pan, as in Makgadikgadi and Lake Ngami. The Okavango is unique in that it forms a freshwater Delta, simply because it has several outlets. Even though their outflow comprises only three percent of the Okavango’s inflow, this is enough to carry away most of the salts and keep the Delta’s waters fresh. In fact there are 2 groups of outlets: west to Lake Ngami,
Inhabiting the waters of the Okavango are an estimated 35 million fish of almost 80 species. The most abundant, three species of bream are preserved from excessive predation by crocodiles feeding on the tiger fish that would prey on the bream. Hippos flatten paths through the papyrus on their nocturnal forays to graze, allowing easier access for the sitatunga and antelope to traverse across the swamps during their daytime migrations. Belts of forest fringe the swamps with tall trees giving shade to large herds of larger game. Beyond the forest fringe the landscape forms an open savanna park land, and in these drier areas the greatest concentrations of game are accompanied by the predator families: lion, leopard, cheetah, hyena, and wild dog. It is in these forest fringes and savanna grasslands that elephants and giraffes can be found browsing with antelope of almost every kind, from buffalo, wildebeest, and kudu, to sable, roan and impala. The Okavango Delta is a delicate and unique example of dynamic equilibrium at work in nature.
OKAVANGO BOTSWANA
Time Travel is based in Maun, Botswana, with an office in Australia. We specialise in southern African destinations and our local knowledge and customized service will ensure an unforgettable holiday and the experience of a lifetime.
Specializing in
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an experience you will seldom encounter on the African continent. Tel +264 66 259093 Cell: +264 813101730 Fax +264 66 259094 Fax to email: 088610233 Email: bookings@nundaonline.com www.nundaonline.com
PO Box 119, Maun, Botswana Tel: +267 686 1007 / +267 686 1466
www.timetravelafrica.com
Zambezi Traveller
Dear Teddy
Travellers Friend
d Teddy n a s e c n a yI r Hi F d hopefull Indaba an
oth at ture. see you b to t a re u in the fu year old lady that g o y r fo It was s e ri lots of sto Betty Paley, The 85 to have done will have of s ever ic p w fe ts at est person ld o e Here are a Th ent 4 nigh . e sp n d li n a ip a Z li e with her in Austra went on th Adelaide as on a trip hear now w m e o h fr S . is e e m I it. Sh ing ho nergy and before fly credible e to a real n I in . e d Imbabala e n n rn e ri tu d s a A h r e te use since that sh daugh power ho Please her jump. ow if let me kn y further there is an . eed info you n Thanks
I just wanted to thank so very much for sending copies me of your wonderful paper, which I can’t get enough of. I have shown it around to a few people I know, who were all well impressed and you may well get a few requests for it. I can’t tell you how pleasantly surprised I am ole Karen Po nager a M e g every time I go through d Lo Zambezi la a b Imba them and find so much of e g d Safari Lo interest. I first visited the Falls The Zambezi Traveller in the late sixties when welcomes letters to the editor my father managed the fjackson@iwayafrica.com then Kazungula Ranch for the Austrian Count Lazy von Heinkel. He later leased it from him and conducted hunts and game capture. In an effort to avoid delays and high Dear Teddy costs to hunters who wanted trophies cured and mounted My name is Luk. I lived in Zimbabwe for 21 years but but which then had to go through to Bulawayo, he started returned “home” for good (?) to Belgium on Christmas day what became Zambezi Taxidermy and snake park, an 2010. In the meantime, I have been contacted by lots of interesting aside is that a youngster applied for and got a friends who would like me to help them plan and budget job looking after the snakes who later went on to become a their trips to Zimbabwe. Hence, I thought it would be highly sought after snake and bug handler in Los Angeles useful to have access to the “Zambezi Traveller”, which I used to read while in Zim. How would I get my copy of for films such as the Indiana Jones series and more recently your magazine in my letter box in Belgium?Regards, a fairly successful film called Snakes on a Plane. This was none other than Jules Sylvester who I’m still in contact Luk, Belgium with today. In the late sixties a cousin of mine was a policeman Greetings from Michigan USA stationed at Vic Falls as well. My first foray into the film industry came about when I got to work on a film which I had the great pleasure of reading your paper while flying was shot in Vic Falls called Safari Express in 1976 and in Zimbabwe and finding one in Botswana. Could you tell me how I can subscribe to the Zambezi Traveller? Being sadly that was the last time I visited the Falls whilst my a travel agency owner, I find many of your articles and father still lived out a Kazungula. He subsequently moved publicity useful. I look forward to hearing from you and to Zambia and the Lower Zambezi. congratulation for a great newspaper. At that time, Vic Falls was abuzz with hunters and some tourists being limited to some extent by the Mireille Wilkinson / de Bary Voyages war. Hunting wasn’t so badly affected. Michigan USA Other than that it was a bit of a sleepy hollow and reading all that Dear Teddy Hi, you squeeze into the paper is eye Thank you I have received opening to say the least. I lately came across the Zambezi Traveller Feb 2011 your paper. It is quite a Fortunately through our RCI issue in a guest room in Joburg probably left by a wonderful paper for the timeshare we are able to secure previous client. I found this journal very interesting industry and the region. time at Lokuthula so have been and I was wondering how I could put my hands on Peter and Anesu Gava Namibia future or previous issues until I found this address. able to spend more time there Is it true that I can receive a free copy ? in the last 8 or so years and I hope Can it be by email, pdf format as I saw the issue 1on Issuu. to spend more time there over the com. I’d like to avoid the ground mail since I’m presently in coming years. Angola and it might take ages before reaching me. Anyway, just a bit of blurb but many, many thanks again Thanks for the response. for the updates and, as I say, I can’t get enough of the paper. Regards, Well done to you all and the very best of luck for the future. Yann Take care and be safe Michael L. Games South Africa
Hi Yann You can currently download the current and ALL our previous issues in PDF format at our website www. zambezitraveller.com. Enjoy! ZT
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distribution
25000 world wide
CONTACTS Teddy Brightman
Copies are available from: Local Hotels and Lodges and coffee shops
The travellers friend, a definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi. Distributed world wide to Travel Agents, industry shows, hotels, lodges and key public areas throughout the region, including capital cities. Expose your destination, activities, businesses to an international market through the Zambezi Traveller. Editorial Submissions Zambezi Traveller welcomes editorial submissions but reserves the right to publish. Email in Word format to fjackson@iwayafrica.com
Publisher The Zambezi Traveller P O Box 183, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Design and Layout Baynham Goredema Xealos Design Consultants www.xealos.com Printing Strand Multiprint
Accounts Advertising & Subscriptions Victoria Falls, Chobe, Caprivi and Windhoek Tel: +263 (0) 712 217 178, Email: teddy@yoafrica.com
Frances Jackson All Editorial & Advertising Victoria Falls, Kariba, Lower Zambezi (Zambia and Zimbabwe), Livingstone, Lusaka, Mozambique Tel:+263 (0) 712 208 370, Email: fjackson@iwayafrica.com
Pam Lindsay Advertising Harare, Kariba & Lower Zambezi Tel: +263 (0) 772 230 971 Tel: +263 (0) 714 305 886, Email: pam .hdt@gmail.com
Joe Myburgh Advertising and Editorial Okavango Delta, Chobe and Botswana. Tel : +267 (0) 713 03 808 Email: joe@maunphotolab.com
Baynham Goredema Advert Design and Make Up Tel : +27 (0) 72 600 5283 Tel: +263 (0) 774 867 806 Email:baynham@xealos.com
Disclaimer All information and points of view
are of those of the people who submitted them, and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Editors. Whilst every effort has been made to ascertain the validity of the information submitted Zambezi Traveller cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies. Zambezi Traveller does not accept any liability for any advertising copy/content not received correctly. Zambezi Traveller reserves the right to refuse advertising material that does not meet its specifications or advertising standards.
If you would like to subscribe to the Zambezi Traveller Email: Teddy Brightman
teddy@yoafrica.com
01 JUNE 2011
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Where else in the world?
job is animal watcher – yes, we are always on the look-out for other locals – elephant and buffalo are our main worries. Zebra and baboons are not a problem, they seem to enjoy watching us plod past, probably thinking what nutters these people are!
Running with baboons
By a (shy) Kariba runner
I
live in the town of Kariba, Zimbabwe. For many years, members of our small community who are runners have always ensured that we continued to meet for training sessions; and hence the Kariba Half Marathon was born. Each year over the long weekend in August we hold a 21.1 km and 10 km run. This race has attracted some famous runners, including Comrades winner Bruce Fordyce who attended in 2008 and 2009, and who went on to vote our race as one of the ten hardest hill races he has run, in the South African Runner’s World magazine. We have also had Zimbabwean Comrades champion Simon Mhuzinge join us for the last two years.
Kariba locals start training seriously for our race eight weeks before the event. Kariba is a very hilly town until you get past the Cutty Sark Hotel turn off, and these ‘training’ runs are often very tough! We meet every Tuesday and Thursday for short or speed runs and on Saturday early mornings we meet for our longer runs. Each week we do a different route, sometimes we run the marathon route along Lake Drive, with a view over the lake of the awesome Kariba sunset, and sometimes we run early mornings into the magical Kariba sunrise. We normally have an escort driver who carries our water along the route, but his main
We have had many close encounters with these wonderful wild animals; we always treat them with respect and once past the offending animal, thanks to our faithful driver, our run continues as normal. We also get to experience some unusual runs; in February this year when all four flood gates were open, we got permission from Zimbabwe Immigration to run across the Kariba Dam wall – what a fantastic experience – until we headed back and had to run out of the gorge, a very steep climb of about 1.5 km. Members of the Kariba running group feel privileged to experience what others elsewhere can only dream of! Happy training, and see you in Kariba on 7 August for our Half Marathon!
Kariba Half Marathon Saturday 7th August Each year over the long weekend in August Kariba s holds a 21.1 km and 10 km run. This race has attracted some famous runners, including Comrades winner Bruce Fordyce who attended in 2008 and 2009, and who went on to vote our race as one of the ten hardest hill races he has run, in the South African Runner’s World magazine. We have also had Zimbabwean Comrades champion Simon Mhuzinge join us for the last two years. Official Registration For the 2011 race is now open and closes on 30 July 2011. Late entries accepted on Saturday 6 August 2011 between 09h00 and 14h00. See details below. RACE FEES 21km Half Marathon US$20 per person This includes all refreshments at water points, bacon and egg roll after the race plus tea or coffee and a complimentary t-shirt for the first 500 entries received, plus free access to Water slide/Jumping castle for Marathon runners’children. 10km Fun Run/Walk US$20 per person (As above). 2 km “Baby Run” will be US$2 per entry to go towards certificates, prizes and sweets for the little ones, plus free access to the water slide on Sunday 8 August. Children’s T-shirts will be one sale in sizes 5-6 years and 9-10 years. Price to be advised. For further information contact karibahalfmarathon@gmail.com
The Victoria Falls Mountain Bike Challenge 30th June – 2nd July 2011
Bikers at the gorge
This three-day cycle event, based out of Victoria Falls Zimbabwe, takes competitors through some of the most scenic areas along the Zambezi River Gorge below the Falls. You will be privileged to traverse private game areas, travel through some rural villages and the cycle will culminate with a ride along the length of the Zambezi from the Botswana border to the Victoria Falls, through the Zambezi National Park.
the hotels). Note that most of these areas are not generally accessible to the public and as such are unique to this event.
This newly established event is operated by the same organisers of the successful Victoria Falls Marathon, Zambezi-Man multi-event, and the Kilimanjaro Marathon. This three-day cycle event comprises a combination of single track, rural roads and a small amount of tar (near
The event will be fully backed up, marshalled, and controlled to world standards. Whilst the Victoria Falls Mountain Bike race is a challenge for the fast, competitive riders, it will also be a great event for social riders. Well spaced refreshment points along the way, good marshalling and sweep bikes and cars, as well as some spectacular, un-ridden sections will allow riders some great views of one of Zimbabwe’s most scenic areas. Quality, overnight accommodation will also make this event more user-friendly. So bring along your partner.
For more information please go to www.vicfallsmtbchallenge.com or email us on info@vicfallsmtbchallenge.com.
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