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The Beast
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in Vic Falls
Issue 07
09 Archaeology The Zambezi’s dinosaur treasures
21 Humanitarian Let’s get involved with books
27 Elephants How elephants survive extremely high temperatures
29 Tourism Victoria Falls in the spotlight
47 Art Tendai “The Beast“ Mtawarira, his wife Kuziva and their daughter Talumba
By Frances Jackson
PHOTO: Blessing Munyeniwa
ictoria Falls residents have been embraced by the warm spirit of The Beast, the famed Springbok and Sharks rugby player. The celebrity was introduced by good friend Blessing Munyenyiwa, Touring Director Wilderness Safaris.
Victoria Falls Primary School, where he inspired the young children with a message to follow their dreams. He sat patiently and gave every single child in the school his autograph. His wife Kuziva was by his side sharing stories and giving autographs to the children as well.
in the end everything comes back to rugby!
ZT: How has life post-World Cup been?
ZT: Have you seen the Big Five in the wild?
Zambezi Traveller: Is this your first visit to Victoria Falls?
Beast: It was tough coming home so soon into the World Cup, we felt like we had been robbed. And then it was very disappointing losing to the Lions in the Currie Cup final.
Beast: Yes, but I have only had a fleeting glimpse of a leopard in the wild.
Staying at the world-famous Victoria Falls Hotel with his family, the Beast made time to come and socialize with the locals as the guest of honor at
I enjoyed a half an hour of his time trying valiantly not to show my rugby ignorance. We discussed holidays and schooling in Zimbabwe, but
Beast: Yes; as soon as we got back from the World Cup it was straight into the Currie Cup so there has not been much time for relaxation.
V
Beast: No, it’s my second. I came here with my family when I was about 16. ZT: Is this your first break since the World Cup?
ZT: I read that you enjoy “the beach, movies and spending time in the bush?” Beast: Well… actually the beach definitely takes priority over the bush for me.
ZT: I know you had a wonderful river cruise when you arrived. Are you allowed to take part in the adrenalin activities? Beast: We are allowed to do some – I did a bungee in New Contd page 31
Lawrence Yombwe on the symbols and meanings of his works
56 Conservation Successes and failures of rhino conservation in southern Africa
Regulars Kariba 3, Harare 15, Cahorra & Tete 17, Okavango 22, Chobe 23, Hwange 28, Victoria Falls 29, Bulawayo 42, Lusaka 43, Luangwa 44, Livingstone 45, Letters 55
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Conservation
Chiefs commit to wildlife corridor The Simalaha Floodplains occur on both sides of the Kasaya. In years of good rainfall the floodplains are covered by water and fish move up into the floodplains from the Zambezi river.
By Alan Sparrow
A
new model of community-based wildlife management is emerging in south-west Zambia where two chiefs have signed on to the Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy, linking Chobe and Kafue National Parks. Decades of successful conservation management has brought the elephant population of Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe to an estimated 250 000. The work of Dr Mike Chase and Kelly Landen has shown that in Botswana the elephant range has expanded by 43% since 1994. Elephants are moving out of protected areas in Botswana and heading north across the Zambezi River into south-east Angola and south-west Zambia. Tourism is Botswana’s second largest industry and has created 60 000 jobs; elephants contribute some US$20 million to the economy annually.
Maribou Stork
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
Wildlife conservancies in Botswana and Namibia have significantly improved the standard of living for rural communities. How can this success story be replicated across the Zambezi River in Angola and Zambia, to alleviate rural poverty? A new model of community-based wildlife management is emerging in
south-west Zambia. Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta and Chief Sekute and their communities have set up an initiative to be known as the Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy. This ground-breaking project will allow communities to offer tourism concessions on their own land to private sector tour operators and to enter into joint-venture business partnerships.
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In June this year both chiefs met at Mwandi and ceremoniously signed the government maps that define the new wildlife conservancy. The project establishes a land link that will allow elephants to re-create ancient migration routes between the Zambezi and the Kafue valleys, stretching from Chobe National Park in Botswana to Zambia’s Kafue National Park.
Rural communities in the Kasaya river valley have driven the process of land-use planning, assisted by the Zambia Wildlife Authority and facilitated by the Peace Parks Foundation. The Kasaya river forms the boundary between the Western and S outhern Provinces of Zambia.
Drive from Livingstone to Sesheke in April and May and you will find the mopane woodlands are under water on both sides of the main tar road. When the water is high, local fishermen can be seen travelling through the woodland by makoro! Great numbers of Openbilled Storks and Maribou Storks can be seen working the edges of the pans as the floods recede. The vision of the two chiefs is to reintroduce lechwe, waterbuck and other plains game species to their former home range and then to encourage the private sector to invest in tourism. Another major milestone in the development of the Kaza TFCA; watch this space!
Zambezi News
kariba & middle-zam PHOTO: Dick Pitman
TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
SPORT
Fifty years of fishing
Reagan Ingram’s 10.8 kg tiger
By Mana Meadows
O
The tournament is well known for its festivity, and this year the general merriment was especially pronounced. Each day saw the weigh-bay frenetic with action as anglers gathered to weigh their fish and share a beer with friends. Each night saw a festive crowd at Charara’s Long Bar, with the last night attracting well over 2000 people. The days leading up to the tournament coincided with the incredibly hot conditions experienced throughout the region and temperatures soaring well over 40°C, which only added to the need for liquid replenishment.
Honourary Guest Mr Bill Green
Remington Gold, the winners of last year’s tournament, held on to the prestigious Dryden Trophy again this year, winning by a convincing eight points and leading from Day One of the competition. In second place was Team Nissan and third was Charter X. Reagan Ingram’s 10.8 kg tiger fish won him the Riverbird boat sponsored by Nashua, Fibercraft and Chase Marine; the boat came with trailer, Mercury 125 motor as well as boat cover. The Nissan NP200 sponsored by Nissan and up for grabs for the angler who caught the heaviest fish over 10 kg and which went through the Nissan weigh-bay was not won. Congratulations to the following teams who have made it into Test of the Best which will take place on 24 and 25 February 2012; Remington Gold, Team Nissan, Charter X, Mega, Team Sakunda,
A landmark year for Nissan By Mana Meadows
Sunrise over the mass start at the Kariba Inviatation Tiger Fish Torunament on the third and final day of the event. Over 400 boats took part in the mass start at 6 am on all three days of the tournament.
Bumi Hills Anti Poaching Unit, F.Niel Bull Sharks, ULTC Team Burn, StrykeTynserv and the Fisheagles. Visite www.kitft.co.zw
PHOTOS: MANA MEADOWS
The 50th Anniversary of KITF T was an outstanding event with an entry of 268 teams and more than 1000 anglers, including over 50 teams from as far away as Norway, New Zealand and the United Kingdom. Nine teams entered from Zambia and 35 from South Africa.
PHOTO: MANA MEADOWS
ctober saw the 50th Anniversary of the Kariba Invitation Tiger Fish Tournament. Back in June 1962, just over 130 anglers took part in the inaugural competition.
Nissan marks two milestone anniversaries with success and celebration in the Kariba Invitational Tiger Fishing Tournament.
Team Nissan
As sponsors of the Kariba Invitational Tiger fishing Tournament for more than ten years, Nissan were proud of the success of this year’s 50th anniversary event and congratulate all those who made the event possible.
Whilst an important year for KITFT, this was also a landmark year for Nissan on two fronts, on and off the water. Firstly, and most importantly for Nissan worldwide, 2011 was the 60th anniversary of the Patrol, which was celebrated in conjunction with KITFT’s own
golden anniversary - a combined legacy of 110 years. Secondly, salutations to Nissan’s Rodney Mackay, this year’s top individual angler and a big part of the group effort which saw Nissan clinch second place overall in the team event. Not a bad year all round!
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SPORT
Weighing in on this year’s contest By Mana Meadows
Ben Kirstein (Team Swift Charter J) - has fished the
T
he weigh bay was the busiest and most colourful it’s been in well over a decade. An impressive 268 teams were present; family teams and ladies-only teams, teams of first-timers and teams that brought in monster fish. ZT spoke to the anglers:-
tournament 40 times and won the first Test of the Best in 1988. On the fishing - better today than yesterday. We’ll see how it goes tomorrow. I caught quite a few nice big ones today, 5 - 6 kg. On the tournament - well organised for the amount of people here.
Reagan Ingram (Team Brewster) - caught a 10.8 kg tiger-
fish which was the heaviest of the competition, winning him a Riverbird boat (sponsored by Nashua, Fibercraft and Chase Marine) as well as trailer, Mercury 125 motor and boat cover. On the fishing - This is the only fish I caught all day. I caught it spinning by the bream nets. I’ve fished the tournament about six times before this. My previous biggest was around 4 kg. On the tournament - great and successful, no problems at all. This is our first time fishing as a team and some of the guys hadn’t fished it before. We’ll be back.
K e i t h L y o n ( Te a m Shumba SA) - caught the
heaviest fish on the third day with his 8.17 kg tiger. On the fishing - fantastic. We’ve caught a nice amount of fish. On the tournament - well run. It’s been fantastic.
Jim Lafferty (Team Unique)
On the fishing - very slow, though we have been putting in the hours. We don’t have much local knowledge. On the tournament - fantastic! It’s my first one and I flew all the way from the UK for the week just to make the 50th.
Darril Carlsson and Candice Hodgson ( Team K-OS)
PHOTO: MANA MEADOWS
Luke (12) and Sam Wheeler (8) (Team 4-Wheeler) - the youngest competitors; Luke
caught a 6.7 kg tiger on Day 2, Sam caught a 2.3 tiger, also on Day 2. Luke on the fishing - yesterday it was terrible. But we said wait until tomorrow. I caught my fish at the nets. Sam - This is the biggest fish I’ve ever caught. My arm ached! I was trawling by the nets and it took me ten minutes to get it in! Luke on the tournament – it’s been lots of fun and lots of hard work. We’re coming back next year.
Darril On the fishing - could be better, but not bad.The biggest so far was 3.5 kgs. I haven’t been before – I decided to come because I wanted to catch the Big One! Candice - terrible! Nothing! Darril on the tournament - I e x p e c t e d f i g h t ing and all sorts of things but its been great. There are a lot more people than I thought would be here. Candice - very good; really hot though. People are really friendly and I’ve enjoyed The Long Bar.
PHOTO: MANA MEADOWS
Ben Benade (Team Charter Why – Zambezi Traveller)
Karen Kurstein (Team Swift Charter J) - won the trophy for largest fish by a lady with her 6.755 kg catch. On the fishing - better today with three close trophy fish. Tomorrow we’ll have to speak to Nyami Nyami. This is my 16th tournament. Geraldine Ingram (Charara Wild Cats) - captain of the winning ladies team. On the fishing - we’ve had a hard time but we’ve enjoyed it. On the tournament - tremendous; the attendance has been great and everyone’s putting a lot of effort into it.
On the fishing - it wasn’t a great tournament in terms of fish that made it to the weigh bay, but that is how fishing goes. We didn’t catch the quality that we were hoping for. We read in the tournament brochure a comment by Quinton le Roux that when the water temperature is up the tiger are not so aggressive and therefore trolling and spinning are not a great option. We had planned all our tactics on trolling and spinning for quality. You learn a little more with every year that you fish; put all that experience in the bank and hope to use it next year.This was our captain Francois Benade’s 40th consecutive tournament, and possibly his last before retiring. On the tournament - the vibe was excellent; festive. We stayed in the campsite and were pretty close to The Long Bar and got the full feel of the tournament. The wake-up call was one of the highlights we looked forward to every morning. Another highlight for us was the way we got there – by road from Victoria Falls to Binga and then on an open-style houseboat run by Jon Lucas of Kangamani Tours. It took two days from Binga to Kariba, and the same coming back, which gave us time to rest and recuperate before work. Visit www.kitft.co.zw
PHOTO: MANA MEADOWS
Dilesh Govan (Team Stryke Tynserv)
On the fishing - it has been tough but we did do well today despite losing six hours on the water due to a seized engine. We’ve made Top Ten for the last six years and today we’re praying we’ll stay in the Top Ten. Tomorrow is another day. On the tournament – big. We’ve fished for the last eight years and this is the biggest we’ve seen it.
2011 - 2012 Schedule
Kariba Ferries December
January 2012
February
2
Kariba - Mlibizi
No Sailing
12
Kariba - Mlibizi
3
Mlibizi - Kariba
March 2012
13
Mlibizi - Kariba
5
Kariba - Mlibizi
26
Kariba - Mlibizi
27
Mlibizi - Kariba
19
Kariba - Mlibizi
20
Mlibizi - Kariba
January 2012 Mlibizi - Kariba
26
Kariba - Mlibizi
6
27
Mlibizi - Kariba
9
Kariba - Mlibizi
29
Kariba - Mlibizi
10
Mlibizi - Kariba
30
Mlibizi - Kariba
April 2012 5
Kariba - Mlibizi
6
Mlibizi - Kariba
Confirm all dates well in advance before making any bookings.
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Did you know? By Mana Meadows There has never been any cash prize offered at the prize-giving ceremony of the tournament. Teams fish only for the prestige of winning the trophy and the title of being KITFT champions. The very first tournament took place in June 1962. Thirty-three teams participated. The waters of Kariba were still rising and with the changing landscape many people didn’t even know where Sanyati Gorge was. When the dam wall was sealed and the waters rose many animals and plants drowned, resulting in incredibly rich fertile waters. This, in addition to the increased living space, meant that tiger fish populations exploded during the filling of the lake and the catches at the first tournament were spectacular. The average catch per angler was 14kgs. By 1971 the average catch per angler had dropped to 4 kgs. 1991’s (30th Anniversary) tournament saw 333 teams enter, this is the highest number of teams in the history of the tournament 2011’s tournament was the biggest since 1991, with 268 teams entering. The biggest fish ever caught at the tournament was Seun Van Rensburg’s 12.756 tiger of 2009. Van Rensburg won himself a Nissan Patrol and caught the fish near the bream ponds.
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COMMUNITY
Out of Africa, into Africa By Luke Brown
A
complicated wedding turns idyllic with the Zambezi. A personal report from the groom on how the complications of his international wedding were spectacularly resolved.
My Dutch wife Suzanne and I, a Zimbabwean, met in Dubai whilst working at the Emirates Al Maha Desert Resort in 2006. It was here that we first began to travel the world together and grow our combined passion for tourism and sport, which often comes in the form of cricket. In the five years since we met, prior to our marriage in September 2011, we have worked and played together in Botswana, Dubai, the Netherlands, Singapore and Zimbabwe. From these countries we were lucky enough to travel to scores of exciting destinations.
late afternoon Kariba. The wedding arch was built out of strong indigenous mopane branches and decorated with flowers and ribbons, whilst traditional Tonga paddles denoted the aisle.
I proposed to Suzanne half way up a mountain in the French Pyrenees in April 2010. We began to plan how to incorporate travel and sport into our wedding celebrations. After months of deliberation we decided that we should celebrate our wedding in both the Netherlands and Zimbabwe. So it ended up that we had two small ceremonies for family and close friends, one in Suzanne’s home town of Weert and one at Bumi Hills. We also held an additional two celebrations with our wider circle of friends, one in Amsterdam and one in Victoria Falls, both of which incorporated a game of cricket! Bumi Hills has to be one of the world’s most idyllic locations for a wedding. Pure African wilderness, soul enhancing views over the mystical waters of Lake Kariba, sunsets to rival any destination, along with the unique
A simple service culminated in the lighting of an eternal candle by the newlyweds, followed with the signing of the register. Photos of the bridal party followed before all were transported in style aboard the Karibezi back to Bumi Hills for a lavish reception, with dancing into the night. Wedding colours to match the surroundings
experience of Bumi Hills Safari Lodge. We were married in a picture-perfect wedding ceremony on a private island in the middle of the lake. The rugbyfield-sized island is adorned in part by a lush green thicket of trees where a bull elephant, hidden by the dense foliage, coincidentally stood casually grazing during the wedding
ceremony after his long three kilometre swim from the mainland. The occasional crack as he broke off a branch added a special touch to the service. The other part of the island stretches out into a large sandy beach and it is here that we joined hands in marriage. To make things even more romantic, this island, when viewed from the air, takes the
photo Kirsty Alexander
shape of a heart, the base of which is the beach site where the ceremony was held – how perfect can it get? The colours of ivory, tan, indigo and orange hints chosen by the bridal party blended in perfectly with the setting. Subtle pinks of protea flowers were highlighted with the glorious colours of
Our anniversary each year will now last not just a day, but a whole month! Our memories are of the beautiful cathedrals in south Netherlands, Amsterdam’s romantic canals, the immense beauty of our island ceremony at Bumi Hills, and the culmination of the festivities at Victoria Falls, one of the world’s seven natural wonders, with each setting filled with incredible camaraderie, laughter and love.
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ARCHAEOLOGY
The Zambezi’s dinosaur treasures The Zambezi Valley continues to reveal some unique dinosaur fossils
wave action and soil movement caused by high water levels in the lake for the past few years.
By Sally Wynn
I
t’s a little-known fact, but it’s true that dinosaurs roamed the Zambezi Valley around 200 million years ago, and their fossil remains can be seen today in several parts of the valley, including south of Lake Kariba and in remote southern parts of the Mana Pools/ Sapi/ Chewore World Heritage Site.
The dinner-plate-sized three-toed prints, some of which have clear claw markings, are believed to be those of a pack of huge carnivorous ‘theropods’ – possibly Allosaurus - predecessor to the famous Tyrannosaurus Rex and the dominant carnosaur (carnivorous dinosaur) of the mid-Jurassic age some 180 million years ago. The sun during this period was a good deal hotter than it is today, so the deeply-incised prints made at the crossing place would quickly have become dry and hard-baked, subsequently being preserved when future soft deposits of silt or mud were laid on top. What is interesting about this trackway is that it provides the clearest evidence yet that these meat-eating reptiles may have hunted in packs and predated on their more docile vegetarian cousins, known as ‘sauropods,’ fossil footprints of which have also been found in the vicinity. Visiting the dinosaur trackways involves driving on a 4x4 track and then walking several kilometers in very remote hunting country. A permit to visit is required from the Zimbabwean Parks Authority and an armed guide is essential for the walk in. But it’s a fascinating sight and a sobering reminder that giants far more terrifying than elephants once roamed the landscape in this part of Africa.
PHOTO: SALLY WYNN
PHOTO: SALLY WYNN
Fossilised trackways Of particular interest to palaeontologists is a series of dinosaur trackways (fossil footprints), made in ancient mudstone deposits which have emerged out of an eroded modern-day riverbed in the Chewore South Safari Area (east of Mana Pools National Park). One of these clearly shows the 40cm-wide ducklike imprints of at least three carnivorous dinosaurs which moved across a bed of soft mud perhaps within minutes of each other.
Giving names to dinosaurs is serious business. All new names must be reviewed by a panel of scientists and approved by the International Commission on Zoological Nomenclature.
Dinosour footprints in the Zambezi valley
Skeletons in a cliff In 1972, the bones of a smallish (3-metre-long) dinosaur were discovered in the Chitake River at the base of the Zambezi escarpment in what is now Mana Pools National Park.The species was named Syntarsus rhodesiensis (pronounced Sin-TAR-Sus) meaning ‘fused foot-bones’ which resemble those of a bird. A reconstructed specimen of this creature is displayed in the National Museum of Zimbabwe. However by the 1980s due to extensive erosion in the area, no further evidence of skeletal remains was found. Then in 2006, extensive flooding in northern Zimbabwe exposed a spectacular new cliff-face of Forest Sandstone along the Chitake River, which yielded hundreds of delicate bones of Syntarsus rhodesiensis. Palaeontologists from South Africa and Zimbabwe have undertaken detailed mapping of the area, and have concluded that this is a separate extension of the original bone bed discovered in 1972. The most significant findings from the new excavation include the first articulated neck and skull of the dinosaur, along with many other significant bones including cervical vertebrae and cranial material. These new discoveries will help to resolve the taxonomy of the species, which, although it was originally
Fossil found by Steve
named Syntarsus, may in fact more accurately be categorised as Coelophysis (pronounced SEE-low-FIE-sis – meaning ‘hollow bones’), a close relative of one of the earliest known dinosaurs discovered in the southwestern United States. The difference between the two appears to be that Syntarsus had a little crest on the top of its head, which was absent on Coelophysis. In both cases, this was a small, lightly-built dinosaur that walked on two long legs. It was a predator, about 2.8 m (9 ft) long, including the long tail; its body not much larger than a turkey’s. It had light, hollow bones (hence the name), a long, pointed head with dozens of small, serrated teeth, three clawed fingers on its hands, and a long neck. It is thought that it reproduced by laying eggs. This was one of the earliest-known dinosaurs. It lived during the late Triassic period,
PHOTO: STEVE EDWARDS
roughly 210 million years ago in what was then a seasonally dry environment and savannatype climate without the grasses, since flowering plants had not evolved yet. It was a carnivore, and may also have been a scavenger. Fossilized stomach remains have been found containing small reptiles, fish, and other Coelophysis bones of different sizes, indicating that it was a cannibal. The species may have lived and hunted in packs. New discoveries in Kariba Some five different species of dinosaur fossils have been discovered on the southern shores of Lake Kariba by Steve Edwards, owner and resident guide of Musango Safari Camp. The fossils have been examined and identified by members of the London
Natural History Museum, whose leading Palaeontologist, Dr. Angela Milner, says that one of the five may be new to science. They include an ancient lungfish, a large plant eater and crocodile-like carnivorous dinosaur with huge serrated teeth. Steve is now excited about locating new fossils that may have been exposed by recent
Newly discovered dinosaurs are named by the discoverer or by the palaeontologist who determines that it represents a new genus or species. Sometimes the name describes something special about its body, such as the triceratops, which means ‘three-horned head.’ Some dinosaurs are named after their size or behaviour, such as the gigantosaurus, meaning ‘gigantic lizard,’ and the velociraptor, meaning ‘speedy robber.’ Others are named after the place where they were found, such as the Utahraptor and the Denversaurus, or they are named in honour of a person, such as the Chassternbergia, after Charles Sternberg, the discoverer. Visit www.wildzambezi.com www.musangosafaricamp.com
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Conservation
Annual game counts in Mana Pools The Makonde Branch of Wildlife and Environment Zimbabwe has organized annual game counts at Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe since 1995.
ART & CRAFT
The Baobab Imagine if trees could talk! By Will Maberly Imagine if they could tell us what they have seen! Trees have become a huge interest of mine, Baobabs being one of my favourites. I have walked far and wide looking at these trees and their incredible shapes. They are spiritual, their chararcters etched into their great trunks like grafitti. They are the bus stops of elephants and for centuries they have been the conference rooms for many of Africas great grey monarchs. They exude wisdom, and if we want to listen we can learn from them. Website: www.willmaberlyart.com
By ZT Correspondent
S
tatic counts at waterholes and transect counts across the flood plain take place over a weekend close to the full moon in September each year.
One hundred and sixty volunteer members of the society make up 37 teams who walk across the flood plain on north–south transect lines 500m apart. The aim is to count all the game within the 250m zone either side of each team. The participants manage to cover almost the entire 45km2 central Mana Pools flood plain.
Transect Counts Each team walks four different transects during the weekend and each transect is counted four times. Teams navigate by compass or increasingly by GPS along their transects.
There is a choice of walking unaccompanied or with one of the National Parks Rangers or professional guides who join the count each year.
Static Counts The static counts take place over a 24hour period at the water points scattered throughout the National Park including Chitake Spring.
2010 Count The count was held on the weekend of 25th-26th September. After a good rainy season there is a lot of food at Mana and record numbers of elephants were seen taking advantage of the surplus.
2011 Count The rains finished early so by 9-12 September the bush was very dry. On the transects
elephant numbers were back to normal and the impala count was up.
The 2012 count is planned for the weekend of 28 September to 1 October 2012. Results The annual counts show stable or slightly increasing populations of most species. There are marked annual variations and the relationships between these and rainfall, food supply and other factors are being studied. Above are a the raw results for elephants and lions for the four walks each year:- Saturday morning and afternoon, Sunday morning and afternoon respectively. Visit www.managamecount.com Š Wildlife Environment Zimbabwe, Makonde Branch
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Conservation
A day in my life on the Zambezi Sarah gives an insight into her not-so-leisurely life managing a conservation education camp on the banks of the Zambezi A skype comes through from Chiawa Camp that a baby elephant has been found abandoned. The baby is reported to be approximately 2-4 months old, exhausted with blood on its legs and is following one of the vehicles. Ian contacts the ZAWA Area Warden who instructs us that if it is orphaned we must try and rescue it.
By Sarah Davies
Y
esterday morning I woke up at 5.30 am: it’s already light and the children from the Chongwe District school group are awake and chatting. The children are packing their bags after three nights at Conservation Lower Zambezi’s Nzou Environmental Education Centre. These are the last of five such groups that have visited the centre this season. Aged between 14 and 16 years old, some of these children may live in close proximity to the Lower Zambezi National Park but have very little appreciation of the wealth of biodiversity on their doorstep. CLZ covers all of the costs of transporting, catering and teaching groups of 24 children and 4 teachers every month of the dry season during school term. After the prize-giving ceremony when the most outstanding student is presented with new shorts and a T-shirt, I wave goodbye to the group and send them on their way to help spread their new knowledge. Back in the office, my calm quickly dissipates when I download 49 new emails. Ian Stevenson, our CEO, is busy on the radio talking to safari camps in the area. We are on the lookout for lions as there has been an outbreak of anthrax and some of the lions have been displaying worrying symptoms. Our lion population in the Lower Zambezi is already quite low and doesn’t need any more threats.
We organise ropes, water and hands. The elephant has moved into the thicket and in the dark it cannot be found. We drive around the area slowly for two hours listening and tracking by spotlight and I start hallucinating baby elephants. PHOTO: Sarah Davies
Working with lion
As our main governmental partner, Zambian Wildlife Authority is consulted daily and Ian has already spoken to ecologist Howard Maimbo about possible darting today. Previously, with ZAWA approval, a local vet Dr. Ian Parsons has darted and administered both treatments and inoculations to one large pride. Today we are looking for some of the Park’s smaller coalitions. Safari guides have been reporting sightings and by 8.30 am we have confirmed sightings on the Chongwe river and also close to Jeki airstrip. The vet will arrive at our local airstrip by 10 am. When the vet arrives the lions have moved into the thicket. A long time is spent tracking but we can only look for some sign that the
in total, seven head teachers from the Kafue Head Teachers Association and the Kafue District Education Board Secretary, Loveness Mubisi, with two of their partners from the UK. Head teachers and the DEBS are critical to the operation of our education programme.
Chongwe community
PHOTO: Sarah Davies
lions have left the thicket which they may or may not do today as the area is several kilometres square. Luckily however, reports come in that these lions are not showing any signs of infection, and so the vet decides to leave after lunch at CLZ.
told about the recent anthrax alert and as fellow vets they come to find out more. They arrive just as Dr. Parsons is finishing off his ham sandwiches and he produces and explains his equipment. I show the rest of the group around our education centre.
Guests from one of the camps in the valley have been
As we return my next group of visitors arrive. Ten
Once the new visitors are settled in, it’s back to the office for another quick email storm. I send an email to our safari guide trainer Rory MacDougall to confirm dates for next year. Each year CLZ organises training and exams for safari guides to qualify to work in the Lower Zambezi National Park under ZAWA. Candidates are often already employed in camps, and CLZ also sponsors other potential candidates in the area.
The journey back is magical. Coming up to full moon, moonlight shines through the trees and hyenas call from the Zimbabwean side of the river. A flat tyre on the way home just seems like it had to happen. When we finally get home the head teachers cheer us up with their good humour and stories from the villages. As my head hits the pillow, I’m exhausted. I think I woke up in exactly the same position this morning – ready for it to start all over again! www.conservationlowerzambezi.net
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zambezi kariba & middle-zam
Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
KNOW YOUR TREES
Palms of the Zambezi about 40% of what they eat and the food takes about 24 hours to pass through this inefficient digestive system which I do not believe will have any effect on the hard outside case of the Vegetable-Ivory fruit at all. In 24 hours an elephant can walk quite a long way and when the fruit is deposited it is accompanied by an ideal germinating and growing medium. So it is not surprising that VegetableIvory Palms grow along old elephant routes.
By Meg Coates Palgrave
T
he answer to the question “when is a tree not a tree?” could be: when it’s a palm. In fact I understand that in “palm circles” it is definitely not done to refer to palm ‘’trees”! However, many palms do fit most definitions of a “tree” for instance ‘a big plant with a stick in the middle’ or ‘if you can sit in its shade (and many people add ‘and have a cup of tea’) it must be a tree’. There certainly are differences between palms and trees the main one being that most trees classed as dicotyledons have the ability to expand their trunks in proportion to their height. The xylem, the water transporting vessels, increase in number each growing season forming rings in the wood. Palms are monocotyledons having the xylem and phloem in what are known as vascular bundles, which are not able to increase in size. Palms cannot start growing upwards until the stem is wide enough to support itself and the limited number of leaves it bears. Although usually evocative of sandy beaches and tropical islands there are indigenous palms in the land locked countries of Zambia and Zimbabwe and they are associated with the Zambezi Valley in one section or another. They are a relic of a period when the land was much wetter and probably and a lot more tropical than it is today. The leaves of palms are either pinnate (like a feather) or palmate (like a hand or a fan). The palm best known around the Victoria Falls/ L i v i n g s t on e a re a w i t h
Raphia palm, Raphia farinifera
Ilala Palm, Hyphaene coriacea
pinnate leaves is the Wild Date Palm, Phoenix reclinata, and as the name suggests, reclining or leaning over, as it does, so gracefully, adding to the ambiance of the river above the Victoria Falls. The fruits of the Wild Date Palm are ovoid, about 1 to 1,5 cm long, thinly fleshy and not at all like those of the well-known date palm, Phoenix dactylifera, which has been cultivated by the nomadic peoples in Arabia and north Africa since 4000 BC. The pinnate leaves have the lowermost leaflets modified to form spines. The margins of the upper leaflets fold upwards so that they form valleys on top. This is unusual for pinnate-leaved palms, as the leaflets usually fold downwards
so that they form a roof on top, as do those of the Raphia Palms, Raphia farinifera which, with leaves up to 18m long, have the largest leaf in the plant kingdom. These are found along the lower reaches of the Zambezi and some of the tributaries and I have seen it on the Liuwa Plains. In the mid-Zambezi Valley are the Vegetable-Ivory Palms, Hyphaene petersiana, one of the fan-leaved palms. Around the Kariba shores and along the Zambezi River towards Chirundu on the Zimbabwe side, there are either very tall ones or those which have not got off the ground, but no intermediates probably as result of animal pressure. During the dry season when
there is nothing else to eat I am sure that the growing tip of the Vegetable-Ivory Palms provides a succulent meal. Among the trees drowned by the waters of Lake Kariba the trunks of the VegetableIvory Palm are still standing. One does not think of them as being very hard or very durable, but they obviously are. Like many palms these have separate male and female plants and when flowering and fruiting, it is easy to distinguish between the sexes. The female
the Ilala Palm are pear-shaped and those of the VegetableIvory Palm are round. The fruits develop a hard shell with a very hard white centre hence the name vegetable-ivory. I was once told by a tourist that they had been warned not to buy small ivory objects as they might be just vegetable ivory and not the genuine ivory. And this was after the ivory ban. There is the belief that the fruit has to pass through an elephant before it will germinate. Elephants only digest
Ilala Palm, Hyphaene coriacea, male flowers (5)e, Levasflor, Mozambique
flowering branches, which subsequently bear the fruit, are thicker and sturdier than those of the male, which need only bear flowers.
In Mozambique towards the coast Hyphaene coriacea known as the Ilala Palm, is found. The difference in the species lies in the fruit, that of
Ilala Palm, Hyphaene coriacea, fruit
When the sap is rising, if these palms are tapped near the growing tip they yield a palatable liquid. If the tapping is done carelessly and the growing tip destroyed, the palm dies and many have. During an expedition to the Zambezi delta in May 2004 I bartered a tin of bullybeef and a box of matches for a newly picked green coconut and by sign language managed to have it opened. There had been a misunderstanding about who was taking the water so it was at a bit of a premium. That coconut milk was like pure nectar. This is proof that coconut palms Cocos nucifera grow in the delta and I know of one at Tashinga but I am sure that one was planted. All Photos by Meg Coates Palgrave
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
13
CONSERVATION
Catch and release – the future?
A competitor in this year’s Kariba tiger fishing tournament contributes his opinion on the catch and release question.
Team Charter Why – Zambezi Traveller. From Left to right: Freda Wheeler; John Wheeler (Skipper); Francois Benade; Andries (Ben) Benade; Barry Meikle
PHOTO: MANA MEADOWS
Indeed, the Test of the Best competition, where the top 10 teams from KITFT compete, is already a catch and release competition. However to implement catch and release for the main KITFT would be difficult. For the competitors, the new additions of aerators and live wells to each boat and the extra fuel for regular trips to the mobile weigh station would be costly. The necessity of mobile marshalls would be costly for the organizers.
PHOTO: ZT CORRESPONDENT
By Barry Meikle
A
s a first-time competitor in KITFT, I can say that I am hooked. Now that the memories of the terrible heat, lost fish and lack of sleep have faded, all that remains are the good memories - the excitement of the first day’s start, the hopes of the big one, the good natured rivalry at the weigh bay, the sunsets over the lake, the camaraderie amongst the competitors, and the cold beers. I know I’ll be back. But what about the stars of the show and the raison d’être for KITFT - the tigerfish themselves? There has been a lot of discussion of the
undisputed fact that tonnes of fish are removed from the lake over a very short period of time. Also the nature of the competition encourages the capture of the biggest and best fish. It must be noted that a fair portion of the fish caught are donated to missions and charities as a welcome source of protein, and National Parks do valuable research from the catch. The tournament only takes place in the eastern basin of Kariba. However, careful study of the records does indicate that from an all time low in 1994, the total weight of the catch has shown a general
upward trend. Interestingly, the average weight per angler seems to be on the slight downward trend. Does this mean that we are removing more fish each year and the average fish caught is getting smaller? Well I am no scientist, and although the catches still appear to be fairly healthy year-on-year, the question really is whether a non catch and release competition is sustainable in the long term. KITFT is supported and conducted under the auspices of the National Parks Authority of Zimbabwe. And to be fair to the organizers, they are very cognizant of
ENVIRONMENT
Cleaning up Kariba Children helping to clean up the town
By Lions Learning Centre children
S
chool children from the Lions Learning Centre in Kariba learnt a big lesson cleaning up litter on the town’s main road Thirty-two schoolchildren from the Lions Learning Centre, Kariba, completed a sponsored litter clean up in September – not only to clean up
our main road, but also to raise money for Chishakwe Rhino Trust in the Save Valley, as it was World Rhino Day. We walked from AMC garage back down to our school via Shell garage, a total of seven kilometers, and filled 22 bin bags. There was an overwhelming amount of litter, and it took three hours walking and collecting until the light was
fading quite rapidly. There are a few ‘hot spots;’ outside AMC where customers from Pollys just tip their packets and cans over the wall, opposite Shell garage and again opposite Swift. As we ran out of time, some of us planned to spend some time over the weekend picking up from where we left off. Thank you to everyone who helped us raise money, helped with transport, with the smaller children on the road, stopped and gave us moral support. We live in a beautiful town and we need to carry on keeping it clean. We know we will never litter again. As a school, we are going to try and do at least an hour a week of litter collecting around town.
Francois Benade, dedicated tiger tournament participant has fished the tournament for 40 consecutive years.
these issues, such that it was announced that the competition will eventually be evolved into a catch and release event.
All these costs would be passed back down to the competitors. Would this drive the average fishing enthusiast away from KITFT? Would this be the start of KITFT becoming a competition that only has well funded, corporate sponsored, semi-professional teams? There needs to be much research into the best methods of keeping tigerfish alive and successfully
returning them to the lake. These techniques will also have to be taught to the competitors.
The jury is still out on how to make KITFT greener. But the good news is that from the organizers down, there is a growing acceptance and strong realization that some changes have to be made to bring the competition in line with internationally accepted norms. As a short term solution, my humble suggestion would be to ban all baiting of any kind, both during practice and competition, and raise the minimum eligible size fish to 1.5 kg. This would vastly reduce the total number of fish caught and return the emphasis to the successful weighing of fewer quality fish, as opposed to the top teams pushing for maximum quantity. It would be a useful stepping stone to the introduction of catch and release and mobile weigh bays.
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zambezi kariba & middle-zam
Travellers Friend
Classifieds Accommodation
Boating
Warthogs Bush Camp, Kariba - Clean and
Zambuka, Tantalika & Karibeer Houseboats - Spacious, great family pontoon double decked house boats with first class crew. Contact - Steve & Glynis Nobbs 0 +263 61 3333 Mobile - +263 772 249040 E-mail - zambukaboat@gmail.com
Comfy Budget Accommodation Bar on the lakeshore serving meals all day every day from Criselle’s @ Warthogs. Splash Pool, Kid’s Play Area, DStv. Registered Tour Operators, for Houseboats, Canoe www.warthogs.co.zw 0712 201 733 0775 068 406 Tamarind Lodges - Comfortable, Budget Self CaterTel - +263 61 2697 or +263 772 880868 GPS Reading S 16°31’28.6° E 028°49’19.5°
house with swimming pool & 4 bedrooms en-suite, fully serviced. Contact us for Rates etc. Garth - +263 772 877 083 Fiona - +263 773 194 088 E-mail - fionab@cas.co.zw
Boating Parramore Electrical - for all your auto electrical, Outboard Motor work & DSTV Installations. Breezes Marina, Kariba. Contact: Doms Parramore +263 773 997 650 Kevin Stephens - +263 775 076 795 Workshop No - +263 61 2403 E-mail - paramundy@googlemail.com
Food Supplies
ing Lodges in Kariba E-mail - tamarind@zol.co.zw
Pagungwa Lodge, Breezes Road, Kariba. Private
Advertise in the Kariba & Lower Zambezi Classifieds sonya@zol.co.zw +263 772 874 352 Sonya McMaster
Mcline Canvas - For all your manufacture & repairs of all boating, safari & outdoor living accessories. Contact: McLine - + 263 772 709 470 or +263 61 2627 Stand 740 Chawara, Kariba
Safaris, Tailor Mades relax@warthogs.co.zw
RJ Marine Services - Outboard Motor Service & Repairs by trained personnel. Stand 762 Chawara Kariba Contact: Rob - +263 61 2356 / +263 772 355 561 Chessa - 46’Monohull Steel boat for sale, share option or swop for 18-21’fishing boat. Moored at Marineland, Kariba Contact: Garth - +263 772 877 083
Zambezi Traveller
Crispy Fresh - visit our one stop shop! Suppliers of all dairy, beef, pork, poultry, fresh fruit, vegetables & dry goods. All you will need for your holiday to Kariba. E-Mail - crispy@utande.co.zw Tel: +263 61 2880/3024/2592 or +263 773 921 687 Blue Waters @ Andora Harbour, Kariba. We offer beers & soft drinks on a sale on return basis plus ice & fishing bait. Contact: bluewaters@iwayafrica.com Tel: +263 61 2971 / 2972
Harbours
Tours & Safaris
Tours & Safaris
Chawara Harbour - T/A C&D Supplies. Suppliers of all drinks, ice, bait, fuel & oil and the best biltong, dry wors & chilli bites in Zimbabwe. Contact - Colin or Debbie Cell - +263 774 143 064 Phone - +263 61 3278 E-Mail - debsmac70@yahoo.co.uk
Pesha Safaris - Zimbabwe - houseboats, canoe safaris, Vic Falls, Botswana - Chobe, Delta, tented safaris. Zambia - Luangwa bush camps, exclusive lodges. Contact us for all your holiday packages and personalised safari itineraries. Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba E-mail - pesha@mweb.co.zw Phone - +263 61-3121/2247/3181 Mobile – +263 772 763 916/8
James Mackenzie Walking Safaris - We offer canoeing in lower Zambezi. Kariba - Chirundu and Chirundu - Mana Pools. Walking safaris in Matusandona, sunset cruises on Lake Kariba. Contact: +263 712 770 338; 772 916 991 +263 61 3771 E-mail - jamusimack@yahoo.com
Hardware Endura Rubba Paints - For all your requirements of Dulux Paints, Lubricants, Thinners, Resin, Fibreglass, Filters, Eezipool Products, V belts & accessories, Tandem lawnmowers, Eureka DIY and more Contact: Nikki - 0774 060 717 Tiri - 0775 965 547 Land Line - 061 2325
visit
Mopani Cruises - for all your incentive travel on houseboats & catering, lodges, transfers & day trip bookings Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba E-mail - mopani@zol.co.zw or mopanicruises@gmail.com Phone - 00 263 613195 Cell - 00 263 772 856 319
Restaurants
zambezitraveller.com
Sheer Magic Houseboat - Kariba Zimbabwe for a fantastic pontoon houseboat experience! Contact: Sonya McMaster +263 772 874 352 E-mail - sonya@zol.co.zw
Criselle’s @ Warthogs - Delicious meals available at Warthogs Bushcamp, Powerline road, Kariba Contact Criselle - +263 772 358 432 or +261 61 2701
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Latest issues and previous issues in PDF format! SUBSCRIBE To our paper and newsletter FOLLOW US On Facebook and join the discussions RESOURCES How to advertise in the paper and important info about travelling to the Zambezi FEEDBACK Let us know what you need from this website VISA & Park Fees Get requirements respective of the different countries
Siavonga Tiger Challenge It’s nearly time for the 3rd Annual Siavonga Tiger Challenge to be held at Eagles Rest Resort Siavonga.
Date: 9th, 10th and 11th Dec 2011
Entry Fee:
ZSFA MEMBERS: ZMK 300,000 excl fishing licence
NON MEMBERS: ZMK 420,000 excluding fishing license
SADC/INTERNATIONAL: US$ 100
“PIMP MY WHEELBARROW” DAY!! @ Warthogs
Kariba Country Club - December
Rules are something like this…..
Delicious food; we now have Mussels for starters, Prawns, Calamari, great big Monkey Gland steaks to die for, Chicken Melt, Fish and Chips. Catering from a snack to a large dinner. Sat, 3rd - Children’s Christmas Party, Contact Pixie on 2283 or 0773 384501 to book your child. The Log-N-larger pub will be open and the Aussies will be playing Wales at rugby. Thur, 15th Pensioners Christmas party lunch. If you are a pensionerContact Harry Moan a call on 0773 523 880 or 2918/9 · Fri, 16th - Club will be closed to the public. Sun, 25th, Christmas Lunch - Booking in advance is essential. Sat, 30 - New Years Party - Deon will be running the Disco from Saturday night, until breakfast for the Die Hards. All welcome to join us to see the New Year in and have a “Hoolie” The Club will open all the way through the Festive season. Come along for a swim, meal, drink and a bit of fun with your friends.
1. Dress up your wheelbarrow/bicycle/cooler box/”whatever” (no engines) 2. Find yourself a driver/pusher/puller and a passenger (more if you like but they gotta all fit in) 3. Dress yourself up 4. Arrive and Enter your team. 5. Run as fast as you can 6. Fall over/ get up/run again 7. Finish the course 8. DRINK!
Kids Xmas Tree Party
Time - 1pm. Age restriction - 10 Book your kids in now with Ian Once we’ve cleared the reindeer out of the carpark we will convert it into a high performance race track, ready for racing at about 2.30pm. Look out for the posters or ask Ian or Lou
Inclusive of all licences
1st Prize for biggest Tiger US$ 1000,
other prizes for biggest other Men’s, Ladies and Junior Tiger, biggest bream and other species. For more information contact. Karen Thompson - Fagyas 263 955 75529
CONSERVATION
United by hope for the rhino’s future By Lisa Hywood
W
orld Rhino Day, 22 September 2011, was marked in Harare by a march through the city centre, a show of government support and a performance by singing celebrity Oliver Mutukudzi.
Zimbabweans stood together with one goal to show solidarity in the war against rhino poaching. World Rhino Day was marked with a march through the city centre to the sound of the Zimbabwean Police Band. School children turned out in force with banners and posters ranging from ‘Rhino horn is not medicine,’ to ‘My horn belongs on my head.’ Government was represented by the Ministry of Environment and the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, led by the Director General, Vitalis Chadenga, himself. The
private sector and groups concerned with conservation and animal welfare also flew their banners high. As we marched, the police stopped traffic and onlookers waved and cheered the procession. Walking to the sound of the drums and childrens’ excited voices, I was removed to another world, a world where we all had one cause. The horror of the massacre of these magnificent beasts melted into the back of my mind for just a moment. For now, the vision was of flowering jacarandas, smiling faces and a march of hope! We arrived at Unity Square, w h e re t h e c rowd w a s entertained by a wildlife display put on by Parks, a colour ful marquee and impromptu performances by eminent musician and wildlife supporter, Oliver Mtukudzi.
The opening remarks of our Minister of Environment set the tone: “It is my singular honour to be here today to celebrate World Rhino Day which marks the beginning of a new thrust in our efforts to promote the protection of the rhino. It is a celebration of successful conservation strategies implemented by various individuals, organisations and companies who are pooling their resources to conserve the rhino from poaching. Our primary objective is to create awareness of the plight of the rhino and help stem illegal trade in rhino and rhino products worldwide.” The moment was a celebration of our heritage as well as to create awareness of the cause, so now was not the time to dwell on a seemingly impossible task. School children regaled the crowds with a rhino quiz, receiving prizes for
School children in Harare march to raise awareness for the plight of the rhino
their correct answers. Members of the public were drawn in, gleefully expounding their knowledge and being rewarded with T shirts. But most pleasing of all, was when the humble ‘Tuku’ delighted the crowds with the catchy riffs and poignant lyrics of old favourites and
new songs. A nation moved by music and now a unified desire to protect endangered animals. The Minister stated that now is the time to act, by rigid law enforcement, death if need be, to show how serious Zimbabwe is in curbing poaching and strengthening the Intensive Protection Zones. This
PHOTO: Davina Gogi
was a confirmation of a policy that was already in place but just needed to be actioned by a renewed collaboration of conservation effort. If ever Zimbabwe needed to stand together, it is now before it is too late for the rhino and other species. www.tikkihywoodtrust.com
In the heart of one of Harare’s industrial areas travellers and residents alike, with a few free hours to spare, are enthralled by this enchanting village. An eclectic mix of African artifacts, beautiful linens and antiques, organic/health goods, jewellery, safari clothing and accessories, pine and teak furniture and so many other treasures can be found in this rustically, colonial assortment of buildings. With its’ multitude of nooks and crannies holding surprises around every corner, the focus of Doon is definitely on Zimbabwean, quality and handmade products.
1 Harrow Road, Msasa Harare Zimbabwe
On arrival you are bound to be greeted by one or more of the many resident vervet monkeys that play in the canopy of fever trees shading the complex.
Green lawns, winding pathways and children’s playgrounds all add to the unique and relaxing ambience of the village. Whether you are looking for the perfect gift, that specific something for yourself, your family or your home or just visiting the village to browse, be sure to make time for morning tea or a meal at one of the complex’s award winning restaurants – vegetarian for the health conscious or decadent Belgium chocolate for the not so! If that’s not enough, you can even book yourself that exotic beach getaway.
C O L L E C T I O N
Sophisticated Handmade Jewellery from African Stones and Crystals Studio : contact Aude or Sieglinde 077 2 235 313/071 2 417 039 email : info@ourcrystalpassion.com www.ourcrystalpassion.com
The affordable family resort on the best beach in Vilanculos, Mozambique. Truly Fabulous! BOOK NOW bookings@archipelago-resort.com
Bespoke handpainted textiles, and contemporary African Craft Phone +263772248380
www.emmafrenchcollection.com
Simply Unique DOON ESTATE Tel. 077 2 410528/077 2 705113 Email. tamaralifestyle@gmail.com
Herbal/Health/ Organic Foods & Wines Baby, Body, Home, Pets Remedies Essential Oils & More Cel. 077 2 384628 Tel. 04 446388
Classic Pine DENDERA GALLERY
The finest selection of traditional and contemporary living arts of Africa Wood Sculpture Domestic & ritual Jewellery Artifacts Basketry Musical instruments Graphics Textiles Doon Estate 1 Harrow Rd, Msasa Harare Tel. 077 2 114731
HOME SPA WHOLEFOOD RESTAURANT
Open for Breakfast, Teas and Lunch Tuesday to Saturday Vegetarian Buffet Tuesday to Friday only Tel. 04 446684
Each Delcardo piece is individually designed and hand crafted to ensure your ongoing love affair with beautiful furniture
Body & Soap safari clothing, luggage and great accessories. Come see us at Doon Estate enquiries@safarigear.co.zw
Doon Estate, Msasa Mobile: 0712 769 689, 0772 731 915 Open Monday - Friday 9am - 5pm Saturday 8am - 2pm www.matsimela.co.za
Traditionally Crafted Pine Furniture Tel. 077 2603026
Tel: +263 (0) 772 912 183 jurgenw@ci.co.zw
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
ZT Correspondent Come and celebrate being Zimbabwean and support our great causes. Zimfest, wherever it is in the world, is always in aid of Zimbabwean charities. Our local event’s earnings this year are going to be spread across three different charities: WeZimbabwe (www.wezimbabwe.org) which supports local humanitarian and children’s charities across the country, Homes in Zimbabwe (www.hiz.org.uk) which supports Old Age Pensioner organizations such as
S.O.A.P. and Victoria Falls and Kariba Anti-Poaching units - after all, it is ultimately the wildlife of our beautiful country that attracts the tourists! Zimfest Harare: Midday, 10th of December, at Greendale Country Club Entrance to the event is $20 for Adults, and $10 For more details: Email guy@kurumidza.com Venue: Greendale, Featured Artists :Evicted, Ryan Koriya (from Mann Friday), Mnandi, Tehn Diam o n d, Fr a s e r M a c k a y, Josh Ansley, DJ Macson and the up-and-coming DJ Hurricane.
Whats On
Reps Theatre DECEMBER 2011 - MARCH 2012 Reps Theatre will have a busy first quarter of 2012, with a selection of great productions on stage to entertain audiences across the board. Confirmed shows at present (with more to be added in coming weeks for both Reps’ Main Stage and in Theatre Upstairs) Dec 1 - 23
Feb15 - Mar 3
Pantomine Robinson Crusoe
Shout!
A wonderful cast which includes Marc Thomas, Sue and Marty Bolt, Emily Wetzlar, Stephane Thomas and a host of new faces
A collection of some of the finest music of the 60s, 70s and 80s in Shout! This musical will feature a line-up of top singing and dancing talent, performing numbers that hit the charts between 1964 and 1984, starting and ending with number one hits called Shout!
Dec 31 - Jan 14
Mar 22 - Mar 31
Boeing Boeing The hilarious comedy Boeing Boeing, directed by Zane E Lucas. A classic farce featuring airline pilots and air hostesses in a series of funny mishaps.
Chapter Two Neil Simon’s award-winning comedy Chapter Two, directed by Zane E Lucas. Simon authored such hits as Lost In Yonkers, The Goodbye Girl and many more and is one of the USA’s most beloved playwrights.
FILM
Film Awards
PHOTO:ZIMBOJAM
16
Honourable Minister, Theresa Makoni was the guest of honour at the Ndichirimupenyu Awards.
Women Film Makers of Zimbabwe (WFOZ) unveiled 10 awards on November 24, 2011 at the International Images Film Festival for Women
(IIFF) Ndichirimupenyu Awards to honor individuals who have excelled in various disciplines.Noteworthy in this year’s edition of the awards was that they were also given to men who have played a role in empowering women. The IIFF award ceremony took place at the National Gallery of Zimbabwe where Honorable Theresa Makoni, the first woman to become a Minister of Home Affairs graced the occasion. Minister Makoni who doubles as the Woman’s League boss for the Movement for Democratic Change (MDC-T) assisted with the presentation of the Ndichirimupenyu Awards. Meanwhile, the awards
Decade of Achievement Sport - Mavis Gumbo Business - Florence Ziumbe Arts - Pretty Xaba National Social Contributor - Rejoice Timire
Lifetime Archievement Business - Marah Hativagone Arts - Carine Tredgold National Social Contributor - Fanny Chirisae Activism Against Gender Based Violence - Richmond Sakuyarima Most responsive Institution - MSF Clinic Mbare Best Male Against Gender Based Violence - Trevor Davies
came at a time when today November 25, 2011 Zimbabwe joins the rest of the whole world to commemorate the 16 days of Activism Against gender Violence Campaign. The award ceremony was an effort to
recognize the good work being done by women in line with the Women with Goals theme. - Anozivashe Shumba for Zimbo Jam www.zimbojam.com
Great seafood far from the sea A new seafood outlet breaks onto the Harare dining scene. ZT Correspondent
Open for breakfast and lunch at present, with dinner online shortly, the varied menu includes Haddock Mornay, Brandade, Prawn & Avocado Salad, Fish & Chips, Calamari, and Crab and Crayfish. The Saturday ‘all you can eat’ Prawn Special is proving a firm favourite; the current leader has six plates of prawns under his belt!
The much-anticipated Codfather Restaurant finally opened its doors in Harare in October. As its name suggests, this restaurant specialises in seafood. Before entering the doors, I was met by an underwater fish mosaic scene, which is colourful and lively like the restaurant itself. One is immediately struck by the unusual style of the decor. The tables
Welcome to the Codfather Restuarant
are topped by white canvas sails and surrounded by a seaweed-styled planting of aloes and succulents. Beyond, there is a deck with bench seating and sails
PHOTO: PAM LINDSAY
floating above. This is surrounded by the beach section, where paddling pools and buckets and spades entertain the youngsters. The restaurant is definitely family oriented.
With prior notification, meat dishes can be arranged. The Codfather recently hosted two children’s birthday parties, the children delighting in the idea of having prawns and calamari for their birthdays. With its laid-back style, varied menu and great atmosphere, the Codfather deser ves to succeed.
Bed & Breakfast
T +263 (0) 4 492585 C +263 (0) 773 469 444 E info@kutandaralodges.com Greendale, Harare www.kutandaralodges.com
Sam Levys Village Borrowdale Open Every Day 8am – 11pm Cell: 077 4 453661 Email: ohagansvillage@yahoo.com The Ultimate Home Away From Home Experience
THE CODFATHER RESTAURANT
SEALIFE SEAFOODS
Tel: 498021/3 for Bookings
TEL: 498021/3
Is now open
So much more than just a butchery! Travellling? Going Fishing? Email us your orders Bond Street Cnr The Chase, Mount Pleasant Shops Tel: 336373/9 Billy: 0772 116451 / 0712 214027 | Email: bilsan@zol.co.zw Biff: 0772 265696 | Email: biff@yoafrica.com
For all your fish & seafood requirements
Sunbird Guest House
RESTAURANT Sam Levys Village Borrowdale
Cell. 077 2 247 990 Telephone. 04 883158 Email. leonardo@ecoweb.co.zw
Shop No. 53 Borrowdale Village
Tel: 263 4 885660 | Fax: 263 4 883214 | Email: masterangler@zol.co.zw
Open Monday to Saturday Lunch and Dinner Closed on All Public Holidays
We go out of our way to make your stay comfortable Moulsham Road, Dawn Hill, Greendale, Harare, Zimbabwe Tel: + 263 - (0) 733-316 739 / (0) 4-702402 E-mail: soaz@mweb.co.zw or sunbird@mweb.co.zw www.sunbirdguesthouse.net
Zambezi News
cahora bassa & tete TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
Business/ Agriculture
How to get land in Mozambique While investments in Mozambique may offer high returns, the legal framework can be perplexing to a new investor. There are a number of issues concerning land in Mozambique; the main points are addressed here.
Sunset over the Zambezi at Tete
PHOTO: Tash Morgan
By ACIS
W
hile investments in Mozambique may offer high returns, the legal framework can be perplexing to a new investor. Under the Mozambican Constitution, all land in Mozambique is the property of the state and cannot be bought, sold, mortgaged or transacted. Land-holding follows a concession-type arrangement, based on contracts which are valid for up to 50 years and are renewable. Despite this, there are a number of ways to hold land in Mozambique and the main issues are addressed below. Each method has its own merits and a potential investor should consider the various options before deciding which is best suited to their purpose. Anyone planning to invest in a foreign legal jurisdiction is welladvised to seek reputable legal counsel with local knowledge. Obtaining sound advice saves time and money and ensures that your investment is safe. The contacts of several top law firms with broad experience in foreign investment, land and tourism are available from ACIS at www.acismoz.com
Can foreigners hold land in Mozambique? Foreign individuals cannot hold land in Mozambique unless they have been resident for more than ten years and can prove this. That being said, legal questions remain about what happens if these individuals then leave Mozambique, and the law on this has not been tested. As a rule, ownership of a company tends to be the safest vehicle for foreigners investing in property. Can I set up or buy a company? Owning a company which is incorporated and registered in Mozambique tends to be the most convenient legal option for foreigners wanting to hold land title. A company can either be set up or bought. Buying a company that already has secured title to the land you plan to invest in tends to be the fastest route, as registering and incorporating a new company can take many months. Buying an existing company means that land, property built on that land, and other assets transfer automatically to the new owners. However any liabilities also transfer which is why due diligence is necessary. Is there a difference between property in towns and in the countryside? Yes, both are treated differently under the law and have dif-
ferent ownership requirements, so be sure to check what type of land you are considering investing in. What is a property worth? Because land cannot be bought or sold, it does not have a value. It is the property or infrastructure on the land that holds the value. Perhaps because of the relatively small and exclusive nature of the market, property prices have generally remained stable during the global financial crisis, which makes Mozambique an attractive option for investment. Where can I get assistance to invest? The services of a good lawyer with local knowledge are a worthwhile investment for anyone looking at buying property in another country. Lawyers can assist with information about legalities of property transactions, investment incentives, residence requirements and more. Various Mozambique-specific advice and useful background reading material is available through www.acisomoz.com, which also includes a series of guidelines for investors on its ‘Legal Framework Guides’ page. Visit www.acisomoz.com Courtesy of Associação de Comércio e Indústria (ACIS)
CLM Transport Lda specialises in the transport of containerised and dry bulk cargoes throughout South Africa, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Zambia and Malawi. We pride ourselves in building strong relationships and being your business partner rather than your supplier. Brendan: + 258 82 509 3930 | Thom: + 258 82 305 7711 Email: info@clmtransport.com
www.clmtransport.com
zambezi cahora bassa&tete
Travellers Friend
Human interest
A room with a view
A clash of cultures has rewarding results for Peter-John, who was pondering his new home in Tete, Mozambique.
PHOTO:Gigi Guimbeau
By Peter-John de Kock
R
oom with a view; twobedroom apartment, East Village, NYC. Close to subway and great restaurants. $2800 per month.
But a voice kept creeping in from somewhere deep in my sub-conscience. “Being born in Africa is not a mistake, it’s a calling.” It was my father’s voice and I remember him saying that since I was a little boy. The penny finally dropped. My greatest adventures had never been anywhere else but
PHOTO:Gigi Guimbeau
I could barely contain my excitement at this discovery. I’d accepted a job as a business planner for a financial company in New York City and I could not wait to get going. I was looking forward to the excitement of that gorgeous creative energy that whirls around you every time you board a plane or leave the tube in one of the world’s biggest cities. Top: Young boys do the dishes Above: Women selling vegetables
on the African continent – and my greatest sense of purpose and fulfilment. What type of development work would I do in America? I mean, there are only so many volunteer opportunities with Dolce and Gabbana.
Are you an expatriate living & working in Mozambique/Tete? Are you paid in a foreign currency ~ £/$/euros? Do you have an offshore bank account in the currency you earn in? Do you want to save and build wealth in hard/foreign currencies offshore? The deVere Group specialise in: Offshore Banking Offshore Retirement & Education Planning Currency Trading (Forex) Life & Medical Insurance General Wealth Management Mozambique Office: deVere Group, 420 Edificio, Jat 1, Ave 25 Setembro, Maputo, Caixa Postal 928. Tete Contact: Thomas Roberts, +258 844 388 598. Email: thomas.roberts@devere-group.com
I called my father (seemed only right since it was his voice bringing about my sudden dichotomy), and he suggested that, before I do anything I should come and check out Tete. Having lived for short periods in Mozambique before, I was taken by the idea, I mean come on - white sandy beaches, azure tropical seas and friendly
people with bags of seafood, and cute tribal curio thingy’s by the bucket load! Day 75 of my residence in Tete. I’m convinced that my captors have forgotten about me and I will be left here to die. It is hot. I don’t mean coconut sun-screen kind of hot, I mean the type of hot that leaves you sweating in places you never knew you had. Add to that a haze of flies that never seem to leave you alone. Mind you, at least they’ve got good taste; I wear exquisite fragrances. I have now had malaria three times, and I’ve not even been here three months. Shopping malls have been replaced with dirt road death-traps and there is not a Diners Club card in sight. I’m regularly jostled by the locals (no doubt in a tizz as they’ve never been exposed to such style before, and I get that, but is it really necessary to grab at my hair?) So, not what I had in mind, but here’s what I’ve gained: through the dust storms and sewage, a new lease of life and a greater understanding of what it means to be an African. There is life here, in abundance, and if you just let this city under your skin you will be amazed at how extraordinary life in Tete can be. Endless smiles await you each day through the mishmash of city life; a passionate and chaotic energy that quite frankly leaves me spellbound. And then there’s that bridge. Breathtaking, even if you need to remind yourself of it whilst attempting to cross it at T minus 0 miles an hour with a goat/chicken/child laden motorbike on either side of you. It’s always worth taking a moment to take in that view. So, instead of paying for a gorgeous New York City apartment with views of the Chrysler building, I’m paying for a dark and dingy twosleeper on Murderers’ Lane, Tete, with a view of the septic tank. Eish. Would I give it up? NEVER!
Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo,Tete, MOZAMBIQUE Cell: +258 82 509 3330 : +258 82 514 1653 Cell: + 258 84 389 0093 email : donald@moztrade.com : jialingmoz@zol.co.zw ...styling Tel : + 258 252 20445 : Fax + 258 252 20267
Zambezi Traveller
ARTS & CRAFTS
Art in Tete By Tash Morgan “Without art, the crudeness of reality would make the world unbearable” ~ George Bernard Shaw Tete is filled with people of many different talents. The artists featured here are making the city, not just a bearable, but a beautiful place
Joseph Lupano turns found objects in to sculptures
Gigi Guimbeau , painter and photographer
PHOTOS: Tash Morgan
18
John Ngombeteni, carver
Funny Photo!
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MT 68 000.00 INC IVA 5% Special offer Discount for Presenting this Advert PLUS Free Helmet*
“If looks could kill”, Tete City
*But only while stocks Last
Do you have a funny photo, taken in the lower Zambezi area, that you’d like to share with us? If so, please email it, together with a description of the photo, where it was taken, the photographer’s name, and your contact number to: zamtravmoz@gmail.com
Zambezi Traveller
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Human interest
Ava Moz Invitational Fishing Competition 2011 The third annual Ava-Moz Invitational Fishing Competition was held from 23 – 26 September 2011 in Tete. Young and old competed for the biggest catch. A great time was had by all. By Tash Morgan
T
he third annual AvaMoz Invitational Fishing Competition was held from 23 – 26 September 2011 at Chico’s Camp, Tete. Young and old from Mozambique, Malawi,
Zimbabwe, and South Africa spent the weekend competing for the biggest catch. Despite the windy conditions, recordsize fish were caught. The biggest barbel was reeled in by Mike van Straaten, the biggest vundu by Michael McConnell,
and the biggest tigerfish by Dirk Coetzee. First place went to team WBHO Riversdale. The event was sponsored by the Ava-Moz group of companies; Denise Lindsay and her team from Servco provided the food.
Images courtesy of Google Earth
The centre of diversity Matundo in 2010
By Tash Morgan From an import company operating out of the back of a Mazda B1600 pick-up, Donald and Nettie Charles have grown their business, and diversified into multiple companies providing a diverse range of services. All this in only ten years. The initial concept of Moz Trading was to provide agricultural supplies to large scale tobacco producers, and this was soon expanded into a variety of services that supported the original company. As each branch of the business grew, it began to make sense for them to stand alone, so Msasa Investments, Pro Ferragem and Tete Fitment Centre were born.
All four companies are located just off the EN7 in Matundo behind Major Drilling. Moz Trading continues to operate under the watchful eyes of Donald and Nettie, now concentrating on specialised sourcing and project supply, and as agents for AMC Drilling fluids. Msasa Investments sells motorcycles, and GWM pick-ups. Pro Ferragem is Tete’s answer to your friendly local hardware store and also offers IBR roof sheeting manufactured to specification. Finally, Tete Fitment Centre are Firestone and Bridgestone tyre agents, offering tyre fitment, wheel balancing and puncture repairs. It’s not hard to see why Donald refers to their premises as ‘the
centre of diversity,’ providing solutions to a number of problems. And if they can’t help you, they will happily point you in the right direction. Donald admits that he has enjoyed seeing the progress of the company and of Tete. “The property we’re on was bushveld when we started. People asked why I would want to set up an office in the middle of the bundu but with all the development we’re in the middle of town now!” Donald says that the key to the group’s success is that they never back down on a commitment and always take responsibility for their work.
“Any time I can be out of my office fishing with my kids is a great time. There has been a nice balance of business, family and friends. It is a great event for the Tete community.” – Frank von Habsburg (Tete a Tete)
The sponsored give-aways were super, the food unbelievable, and the atmosphere has been great. The fishing was the only problem! But I made it on to the board this year!” – Angela Beresford-Miller
BUSINESS PROFILE
Matundo in 2007
QUOTES
Rob Carlisle of teamTete Topies
Those fish that were not released were presented to the local community
(Berry Juice Bums)
“The catering was awesome, and the event was very well organised. We didn’t catch many fish, but the ones that we did catch put up a good fight.” – Alla Le Roux (WACK Attack) “The most important thing is that it brings everyone together. We got to meet people from different companies and places, and we all had a good time together.”
McBeavis and the Buttheads - Michael McConnell, Andy Crystel, Brendan McConnell and Grant Russel
Competition Organisers Jessica and Nettie Charles
– Rusty Markham (My Generation)
“The event has been very well organised. It’s just the fish that weren’t so organised!” – Mike van Straaten (Reel Rush)
“Give a man a fish and he’ll eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he’ll drink beer all day.” – Joe Vas (Team Tanzi)
Competition Sponsor and Organiser, Donald Charles
Team Trouble Spots - Darrell Smith and John Beckett First Place Winner Piet Roets
Brendon and Decklan Bekker keep score
Team Caballo Blanco with their 12.68kg Vundu
PHOTOS: Tash Morgan
Dust Suppression Solutions Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo, Tete TEL +258 252 20443 CELL ++258 82 8723734 email rob@tetefitmentcentre.com
Firestone and Bridgestone tyres Tyre Fitment Wheel Balancing Puncture repairs Right behind Major Drilling
Dont wait for the dust to settle !!!
Dustac Dust Suppressant
Long term dust management solutions for haul roads and trafficable areas
Natural Natural product product base base Environmentally Environmentally sustainable sustainable
Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo, Tete. We are right behind Major Drilling Tel: +258 252 20272 Cell: +258 82 805 5054 +258 82 509 3330 email: ben@proferragem.com or donald@proferragem.com
Mozambique Trading Company Limitada Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo, Tete Tel: +258 252 20268 Cell: +258 82 509 3330 email: donald@moztrade.com RIGHT BEHIND MAJOR DRILLING!
AMC (SAMCHEM) DRILLING FLUIDS
zambezi cahora bassa&tete
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
21
Humanitarian
Let’s get involved with books Most people in Tete, Mozambique, think books are either textbooks for school or Bibles for church. We examine the opportunities to make a change.
By Jeni Bister
I
recently did some research in Tete, to see if people have adequate access to printed material. Books are available, but very few people ever enter the shops to buy books. Many are economically challenged, with about half living below the poverty line. Most think books are either textbooks for school, or Bibles for church. People get information from other sources, especially radio and TV. The majority don’t have time to read, most do not even read a newspaper. Why are books important? Research has shown that more reading means better reading, spelling, writing, grammar and vocabulary. What business doesn’t want employees who can represent the company through well-written communication?
“Urging young people to read more when there is little available to read makes as much sense as urging starving people to eat, when no food is available.” – Richard Krashen. Can we make a difference in the communities where we are living and working? What if we got a load of books that are comprehensible and interesting and gave one to each child in the third grade to take home? Each home that has
EDUCATION
Useful Portuguese for travellers
a third-grader would have a chance to see that reading is for everyone, not an activity for the elite. If that encouraged even ten percent of families to make education a priority, I think it would be worth it! An alternative is local libraries.There is a provincial library housed in the Direcao Provincial de Juventude e Desporte that will be moved to new premises at Escola Industrial in Matema. The current holdings include about 2000 titles, but don’t envision comfy chairs and shelves of interesting books. You will find all the parliamentary proceedings and newspapers archived for the past 20 years, but almost no literature. There isn’t even a Portuguese-English dictionary, or an encyclopedia; only textbooks and a few novels from colonial times. The library serves as a study center for secondary students, and researchers of local history. As for schools, according to government policy, secondary schools should have libraries.
Sometimes a room isn’t available to serve as a library, or the books have been moved, or there is no librarian. Tete Secondary School does have a room that houses textbooks, and some reference materials that are used by students who can’t afford to buy textbooks. It is full of students every day. Classroom libraries can easily be set up in public schools. A bookshelf or box can be set up in a classroom for students to choose books to read during free time. Colegio Mundial is a private school in Tete that implemented this system with great success. The scheme could easily be expanded to public primary schools. Do the math: each classroom has 50+ children. If there are three Grade 1 classes, you need three boxes of 50 titles. Each child can read a different book each day through term. The boxes get swapped each trimester. By the end of the year the children would
Some useful words and phrases in Portuguese to help you make your way around Mozambique
No Please Thank you Good Okay Sorry What? Where? When? Here? There? Yesterday Today Tomorrow Now How much (cost)? I am a traveller. I don’t understand. Do you speak English?
Hola
Adeus Sim
Nao
Obrigado / Obrigada (m/f ) Tudo bem
Lda
Desculpe Que?
Onde?
Quando? Aqui?
Ali, la? Ontem Hoje
Amanha Agora
Building / Plumbing Maintenance & Repair Air conditioner installation/repair/ maintenance Electrical – repair & maintenance Payroll processing Company registration
Quanto custa?
Eu sou viajante.
Nao compreendo. Fala Inglês?
+258 82 305 1618
Local band, the “Tetesticles”, have been playing together in Tete since 2008, and say that the best thing about the Tete audiences is that they are friendly and appreciative, with a great sense of humour. The band plays a lot of older well-known numbers, some of which they’ve adapted to make fun of local conditions and events. Their track“Jumpa-Borda” is a favourite with crowds of all ages. Catch them having a ball at popular venues in Tete city.
Left to right: Pete Illman, Richard Yiend & Steve Calasse
Por favour
Bom/ Boa (m/f )
jeni_bister@sil.org
By ZT Correspondent
PHOTO: Riaan Kotze
Yes
the library or schools in Tete, contact Jeni.
The Fabulous Tetesticles
To get a feel for Portuguese, simply listen to the people speaking around you in Mozambique. You’ll be fine if you just remember that ‘s’ is usually pronounced sh, and ‘c’ is pronounced s. Give it a try, and don’t be afraid to make mistakes; Mozambicans are generally very understanding. Here are some basic words and phrases to get you started.
Goodbye
have had access to about 150 different books in school alone. If you, or your company would like to get involved in providing reading material for
PHOTO: Tash Morgan
MUSIC
By Tash Morgan
Hello
Erasmo with some of his favourite books
Contact (258)849158599 (258)846153479 Email – bbsklda@fastmail.fm
Quality foods, honestly priced
Contact us at our factory for all your wholesale and retail orders How to find us: Turn left just before the Execo garage on the main Tete Chimoio road and travel down the dirt road for 1.5km. Swing right at the Y-junction and come visit us at our factory.
Jean Cawood Tel: 848456000 Email: cawoodbeefzw@gmail.com
Shaun Cawood Tel: 844957103 Email: cawoodbeef@gmail.com
CONSERVATION
COMMUNITY
Fluid Lives: Cycles The Chief’s new trousers of the Boteti I By Sharon Kockott, Maun capes made of skins. When the first white men arrived, was in a very long queue he said, the chief in this area was given a pair of at Botswana Power Corporation the other day trousers as a gift.
By Kelley Meyer and Thoralf Meyer
but we were entertained by an elderly storyteller in a leather stetson hat. He started the discussion by commenting on the flood water levels and noted that, back in the day, people had three homes - one in the village, one at their cattle post and one near their crops.
B
otswana is home to a myriad of projects funded by government and NGO (non-governmental organisations) groups interested in research, education and outreach. As area researchers can attest, funding these days is not only highly competitive but can take years to procure. One US-based agency, the National Science Foundation (NSF), established a Rapid Response programme to provide smaller grants in unusual situations where time is critical and the opportunity to capture that phenomenon of interest would be lost if proposals were routed through normal channels. This programme, called RAPID, has fascilitated research projects including the immediate aftermath of Hurricane Katrina in the US Gulf Coast and similar environmental, social, and political reactions to other hazards such as hurricanes, earthquakes and tsunamis around the world. A collaboration of US and Maun based researchers led by the University of Texas several years ago were following with interest the increasing river levels upstream of the Okavango Delta, particularly at the Rundu and Mohembo stations. Previous time-series analysis by the Texas team of vegetation, flooding, and fire trends suggested that, as some local researchers were noting, the Okavango Basin appeared to be heading into a wetter period. For the Delta, this meant more precipitation and more water from upstream headwaters. Speculating that water would thus return to the Boteti River outflow system, a proposal was submitted to judge people’s perceptions and livelihood planning before the water returned. Many hazard studies are necessarily conducted after the disaster has hit. But in this case researchers had the opportunity to interview people before and after the water’s return. Doing so
A flood like this one would, therefore, have made things difficult since there were no tar roads and bridges. He noted that the people then wore traditional loincloths and Cattle crossing floodplains
let them understand how people’s perceptions change after such an event and how those perceptions vary with how long people have lived in that system and their cultural background. The grant was small by international standards ($25,708 or roughly BWP 165,000) but was proof that small budgets can still yield important results. Despite the scientific acknowledgment that tracking climatic time signals is highly complex, elders in the area when interviewed exhibited a very good understanding of the precipitation and flood cycles in the area. Families and individuals that had grown up in that area and could remember the days when the Boteti was flowing reported primarily positive expectations about the return of the river. In contrast, those who had moved into the area in the last 20 years expressed grave concerns about lumpskin disease spreading from the water to cattle, child fatalities from drowning and crocodiles, and crop damage from hippos. The bottom line recommendation for policy makers as Botswana sees greater flooding, is that preventative education about rising waters may in fact go a long way to mitigating negative perceptions and enabling proactive planning. A seemingly unrelated finding also cropped up during the interviews: the majority of respondents
The chief had no idea how to use the trousers so he told the young boys who were herding cattle to keep watch at the white man’s camp and see how the trousers were put on. It must have been winter because the boys reported that the white man drew the trousers in under the blankets and moved his legs back and forth until he emerged dressed in the trousers.
The chief then told the boys to return to the white man’s camp and watch how
he took them off. Again, the boys said, he got into bed, moved his legs back and forth and tossed the trousers out from under the blankets. The chief was determined to wear the trousers so he apparently made two boys hold them open, then he ran and jumped into the opening. The chief did the rounds of the village wearing the trousers, but once he was out if sight of the village he pulled the trousers off and put his loincloth on again. By the time our storyteller was finished we all wished the queue was longer. I wish I had had a tape recorder.
PHOTO: Thoralf Meyer
volunteered in interviews that whether the river returned or not did not have nearly as big an impact on their lives as the delayed re-opening of the Maun abbatoir. Families located along the Boteti in comparison to the location of veterinary fences faced costs so high to move cattle to the Francistown abbatoir that they refused to sell their cattle, hoping for the delays in Maun to end. Luckily the Maun abbatoir is now up and running again – good news for those living along the Boteti – and this research team notes the importance for researchers to always ask local interviewees not just about their own scientific interests but what is in the minds of local residents.
Old World Safari Charm B O T S WA N A
Tel: +267 686 0981 or +267 686 1634 Cell: +267 7132 6085 kkreservations@ngami.net www.menoakwena.com
Time Travel is the leading professional travel provider in Maun, Botswana, gateway to the Okavango. We offer years of experience in the travel industry, specialising in southern African destinations: our local knowledge and customised service will ensure the holiday of a lifetime.
‘Explore. Dream. Discover.’ Enquire reservations@timetravelafrica.com or info@timetravelafrica.com PO Box 119, Maun, Botswana Tel: +267 6861007 / +267 686 1466
an experience you will seldom encounter on the African continent. Tel +264 66 259093 Cell: +264 813101730 Fax +264 66 259094 Fax to email: 088610233 Email: bookings@nundaonline.com www.nundaonline.com
Elephant Footprints
Pachyderm cooling strategies How do elephants survive extreme high temperatures? The answer lies mainly in the physiology of their skin and ears.
PHOTOS: Kelly Landen
Skin protection
By Kelly Landen, Elephants Without Borders
M
id-November, temperatures of 42° Celsius and we are still waiting for ‘pula,’ rain. In Kasane we have not had rain since May. It has been an unusually long dry season and unfortunately the rains are coming later than hoped for. Humidity is slowly building while the sun still beats heavily overhead. There is no green grass, leaves or vegetation and the herbivores are suffering. Every afternoon we witness elephant herds slowly making their way out of the forest, hesitating to cross the road, then quickening their pace towards
the Chobe River. They have lost much of their body weight over the season and the calves are tired. It is a wonder that they can survive; some don’t, but most do. So how does the largest land mammal manage to keep cool under such harsh conditions? Elephants’ strategic survival skills, knowing where and when to move or migrate towards needed resources, is key. However, to cool an elephant by a single degree, you must cool over 6000 kilograms of flesh, which takes a lot of heat transfer! Keeping cool depends on the elephant’s body design. Considering elephants do not sweat, the solution lies within their skin.
Skin protection
Elephants are c al led pachyderms, which means thick-skinned animals. They are wrinkled in appearance. The wrinkles act as a cooling mechanism by increasing the skin’s surface area and traping moisture. The trapped moisture takes a longer time to evaporate, therefore wrinkles keep elephants cooler for longer than if they had smooth skin. The skin is extremely sensitive and can be damaged by the sun’s UV rays. Yes, elephants can get sunburn. Elephants
“Conservation Beyond Boundaries”
rest under the shade of trees during the hottest times of the day. However, water conducts heat faster than air, so cooling off in water is much more effective. Elephants bathe, but also suck water up into their trunks, up to 14 litres at a time, to spray on their bodies. They will then blow dirt and mud over themselves, which dries and acts as a protective sunscreen, blocking UV radiation and heat. Without regular mud baths to protect from burning, an elephant’s skin would suffer
serious damage. The skin is extremely tough around most parts of the body and about is 2.5 cms thick. However, the skin of an elephant’s ears is very thin, stretched over cartilage with a rich network of blood vessels. Over 300 litres of warm blood are circulated through an elephant’s ears every 20 minutes. On hot days, elephants flap their ears, constantly creating a breeze which cools the blood vessels on the back side of the ears. The hot blood entering the ears can be cooled as much as 8° Celsius before returning to circulate throughout the rest of the elephant’s body. So the large flapping ears of
an elephant act much like a radiator in a vehicle and are very important for temperature regulation. Keeping these facts in mind, one realises how important water is to the survival of an elephant herd and why they will defend their right and paths to get to and utilize such a vital, lifesaving resource, especially at this extremely tense time of year... waiting for the rains. We as people might be a little uncomfortable, but for the sake of the elephants and wildlife, every morning we must chant in hope for Pula! Pula! Pula! www.elephantswithoutborders.com
www.elephantswithoutborders.org
ElephantsWithout Borders (EWB) is a charitable organization, working throughout southern Africa, dedicated to conserving wildlife and natural resources; through innovative research, education, and information sharing with all people, we encourage mankind to live in harmony with wildlife and the natural world. Considering wildlife don’t use passports, the notion of elephants and “conservation without borders” is crucial for preserving biodiversity and a healthy landscape. Using African elephants as an inspiration, EWB strives to identify wildlife migratory corridors, secure wild habitats and elevate conservation of all wildlife.The largest mammal that walks the earth is now leading the way to help save vast areas of wild lands and the biodiversity they support.
DONATE Donations can be made through our website or contact us at: Tel: +267 625-0202 Email: info@elephantswithoutborders.org POBox 682, Kasane, Botswana
24
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
BOATING
Excerpts from ‘The big white boat on the edge of Paradise’
By Don Pinnock
W
hen Brett McDonald came across the Zambezi Queen hauled out on the banks of the Chobe River in Botswana she was a decaying dream.
The Zambezi Queen had potential and was therefore irresistible. Here were the makings of a floating boutique hotel at the meeting point of four countries with vast herds
Bedroom aboard the Zambezi Queen
of elephant, a park off the bow and some of the best tiger fishing in the world.
But it would be a costly conversion, which Brett couldn’t afford on his own, so he
looked for a partner. Cape Town businessman Tony Stern came to the party. They hired a lodge on the Namibian side of the river – the Caprivi Strip – and Brett hauled the Queen onto the front lawn. There he stripped her back to a skeleton and started almost from scratch.
vention could be asked for – and got more than he bargained for. Upcountry floods boiled down the river and flooded the lodge. Fish were seen swimming through the bedrooms. When the water subsided the Zambezi Queen was floating demurely in the Chobe awaiting guests.
When it was completed a problem loomed: how to get the monster off the lawn and into the Chobe. Brett, a godly man, wondered if divine inter-
He and his wife Jackie, who contributed her considerable creativity to Brett’s dream, now live in the lodge nearby, having abandoned Cape Town
for a life nearer the wilds they love. Now that the Zambezi Queen was up and running, I wondered out loud, was there another project on the horizon? ‘I’m working on a long lease on the lodge and the land surrounding it. I’m going to do something with that, Brett said. But I want to live right on the water so I’m thinking of buying a houseboat I saw and fixing it up for the two of us.’ I glanced at Jackie and she rolled her eyes:‘Oh my,’she said.‘there he goes again….’
DEVELOPMENT
With dreams and hard work
By ZT Correspondent
S
itting at Kwalape Lodge, now almost complete, with its water features, spacious green lawns, luxury and budget tented accommodation, it is hard to imagine that the place was once a farmer’s plot. Owner Milton Khachana smiles quietly; “With hope and faith, anything can be done.”
Khachana grew up in Tshesebe, 40 kms from Francistown, Botswana, and attended university in Gaberone, studying economics and statistics. In 1994, straight after university, he joined the Botswana Tourism Organisation. At that time, Kasane was no more than a small village and when Khachana was told that he would be stationed in Kasane, he was extremely disappointed.
Toro Safari Lodge Botswana - Chobe - Kasane Area
“Come and enjoy your break on the banks of the Chobe River where 2 rivers and 4 African countries meet”
Two years later he received a transfer back to Gaberone but requested to remain in Kasane as he had fallen in love with the Chobe region. He went on to complete his Masters degree in tourism in the years 1997 to 1999 in the USA, and continued to work for DoT until 2006 when he joined the newly established Botswana Tourism Organisation.
D ur ing this time he acquired some land in the Kasane area, not really knowing what he wanted to do with it except that he wanted to invest in the tourism industry in some way. Needing capital for whatever venture he opted for, he decided to do what was second nature to him, farming. Growing up, it was mandatory to help with the family farming and growing of crops. In Chobe region he had an
PHOTO:KWALAPE LODGE
Exterior of the Kwalape Lodge
advantage over his arid home land, with more fertile soils and higher annual rainfall, and a river close by. He turned the majority of his land into a field and grew crops and guinea fowls commercially. His dream grew and he decided that he wanted to build a lodge. Once he had
saved enough capital to satisfy his financiers, he started building in 2004, doing as much of the building as he could himself. By then, some of the trees on his plot had started to grow back and he decided that he would re-design the lodge
around the trees. Despite the headache with the town planning authorities when he changed his authorized drawings, he persevered. Now, it is very easy to spend a day relaxing at Kwalape with a pair of binoculars, just watching the birdlife in the gardens.
Contact details: Tel: +267 76 614 211 Email: kwalape@africasafaricamps.com
Situated in the Heart of Kasane we offer the following; » Chobe Full Day Trips – Options available » Victoria Falls Day Trips – Options available » Game Cruises | Game Drives | Fishing Trips Transfers to and from Vic Falls, Zambia and Namibia
Accommodation Executive rooms, River Chalets, Standard Chalets, Private Ablutions, Campsites
Activities 3 hr game drive, sunset boat cruise into Chobe National Park and sunset boat cruise to where the four countries meet. Transfers to Victoria Falls. Tiger Fishing. Relax in our Restaurant & Bar PO Box 511, Kasane, Botswana Tel +(267) 6252694 Fax +(267)6252695 torolodge@botsnet.bw www.torolodge.co.bw
We can tailor make your safari to suit your specific needs be it a Game drive or Boat cruise. Our reservations team operates 24 hours a day to conveniently book your safari or just that simple enquiry you may have. All our guides are professional at what they do and they will leave a lasting impression of your visit to Botswana.
Time is for spending; spend it wisely with Chobezi Hylton Ross Touring Safari, and it will be time well spent.
Call us on +267 6250992, 6251667 Fax +267 6251297 Emergency 24 hour Mobile +267 76201918 E mail: info@chobezi.com / operations@chobezi.com / chobezi@yahoo.com
• Chalets, ensuite with air con • Safari tents with shared ablution facilities • Private camp sites with shared ablution facilities
• Restaurant and sunset bar • Pool and bar area • Conference facility • Activities: Game drive, boat cruises, fishing, Vic Falls day trips
Kwalape means ‘at home’ in Setswana
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
25
COMMUNITY
Care for Kasane’s domestic animals By Bettina Kelly
K
Kasane BSPCA is a volunteer-run, non-profit organization with the mission to promote and encourage the welfare of domestic animals in Chobe. The Kasane Chapter was launched in 1998 and since then, we
PHOTO: BETTINA KELLY
asane BSPCA is proud to report that our latest Spay and Neuter Campaign was a tremendous success, with 106 dogs sterilized and vaccinated in four days. We could not have accomplished this without the Maun Animal Welfare Society who lent us five volunteer vets and assistants who endured less-than-ideal conditions. This is what happens if you ask them to look after the puppies
have worked to meet this objective in two ways: 1) sterilization and vaccination campaigns to reduce the number of domestic animals and hamper the spread of
disease, and 2) identifying appropriate homes for animals in our care, where owners have the resources and knowledge to properly care for a pet.
One unspayed dog and her offspring can lead to 67,000 dogs in only six years, while one unspayed cat and her offspring can produce 420,000 cats in
seven years. This could lead to the spread of disease like rabies, canine distemper and canine parvovirus, which can be passed along to wildlife, with the potential to impact a diverse range of species from carnivores like African wild dog, bat-eared fox, jackal and lion to herbivores like kudu and impala. Domestic animals also spread other infectious diseases, such as canine transmissible venereal tumor or canine TVT, which is expensive to treat and therefore typically leads to death. Homeless, un-sterilized domestic dogs can also form aggressive, free-roaming packs, which can pose a threat to the local
populace and wildlife. Most of all, tourists come to Chobe to see the natural beauty and magnificent wildlife, not to see domestic animals suffering from starvation or untreated diseases.
Our long-term goal is to acquire a property on which to build kennels for homeless or abused domestic animals where they can be treated, sterilized and kept before going to new homes with families capable of properly caring for these animals. No living thing deserves to suffer when there is an alternative. Visit us at www.spca.org.bw
HISTORY
History of Chobe National Park -Part 7 Bromfield recruited a group of like minded young men with an enthusiasm for work in the wilds of Bechuanaland. Daryl Dandridge, a long time resident of Kasane, was one of those first recruits and has many entertaining stories about those early days. Daryl along with the late Simon Holmes à Court was responsible mainly for problem animal control work in the south east of the country.
By Judy Hepburn
C
ontinuing the story of the people who pioneered tourism in northern Botswana Charles Patrick Helm Hepburn was born in Bulawayo, Southern Rhodesia, on the 12 February 1924. His mother Erica Elise Helm was the daughter of Reverend Charles Helm of Hope Fountain Mission south of Bulawayo. The remains of the old mission and the family graveyard are still evident there. Charles’ father was Tom Brown Hepburn, son of Reverend James Davidson Hepburn of the London Missionary Society. Reverend J.D.Hepburn and his wife Elizabeth had trekked from Kuruman in South Africa circa 1871 to assist Reverend John Mackenzie at the first LMS station at Shoshong, in the then Bechuanaland Mario’s Meat Market Opens new Outlet: Situated in FNB/Choppies Shopping Complex
PHOTO: Judy Hepburn
Camp site
Protectorate. J.D. Hepburn spent 20 years in Bechuanaland and recounts some of his experiences and his long association with Chief Khama in his book “Twenty Years in Khama’s Country.” The Hepburn family had thus come full circle to return to their roots in Botswana, when Pat Hepburn took up his position as the first warden of the newly declared Chobe Game Reserve in 1960. Sir Charles Rey’s dream of opening up the beautiful northern
reaches of Bechuanaland and developing a tourist industry were finally becoming a reality. Alec Campbell records that the Chief Game Warden of Bechuanaland and the controlling force behind Bechuanaland Game Control, the late Mr. Pat Bromfield, had originally been hired to initiate an elephant control unit for work along the lower Shashe and Motloutse Rivers in the 1950’s. The birth of the Wildlife Department came when
Mario’s Meat Market
PRIME CUTS Beef, chicken, lamb, pork and game meat
Wors, Mince, Biltong, Dry Wors and MUCH more
Kazungula-Kasane Road, behind Buy’N Build Kazungula WE TAKE ORDERS Ph/Fax: +267 625 1222 avantu@botsnet.bw
With the decision to open up the Chobe District, Bromfield then had to find a suitable candidate for the new position of park warden. Pat Hepburn applied and was successful; the third generation of Hepburns
was headed back to Khama’s country, this time with the aim of saving animals instead of souls! Bechuanaland was developing slowly, but the perpetual lack of finance to fund programs such as the new Chobe Game Reserve was a constant constraint. With high hopes for the success of the new venture, Pat Hepburn set to work with his newly employed band of game scouts and labourers. The recently established Chobe Safari Lodge was b e c om i n g i n c re a s i n g l y favoured by the new tourists and the Minister of Commerce, Industry and Water
Affairs at that time, M. Hawkins, wrote to congratulate Ethnée Holmes à Court on her achievements in laying the foundations of the new tourist culture in Chobe in the late 1950’s. Pioneers such as Charles and Ethnée Homes à Court and Pat Hepburn amongst many others played their part in laying the foundations of the tourism industry in northern Botswana. Their tomorrows were many, and there was always another day… another wall to build, another new road to cut and a vision for the future.
A big five safari destination! Kasane – Chobe – Botswana
Lodge and Camping Accommodation: A variety of options from family and twin rooms with ensuites in our lodges and camping. All amenities including a bar, restaurant and swimming pool. Activities: Chobe National Park game drives and boat cruises are available daily. Chobe Day trips from Victoria Falls or Livingstone include breakfast and a lunch cruise – an all day activity. Mobile safaris: Explore Chobe, Savuti, Moremi, Okavango, Nxai Pan, Makgadikgadi and Deception Valley. Choose from budget, semi participation, semi-luxury or tailor made safaris.
Telephone: +267 6250 995 / Fax: +267 6250 314 Email: thebe@chobenet.com / reservations@theberiversafaris.com
www.theberiversafaris.com
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Wildlife
Caution! Charging lions may be dangerous
Lioness ready to charge
PHOTO: DAVID CARSON
By Rex Kelly
B
ack in 1998 I had a very interesting experience walking on Chiefs Island in Moremi. We had arrived at Gunns Camp in the middle of the day and headed out by mokoro across the channel for an afternoon walk. We had heard and found a pack of wild dogs, an amazing sighting.
Around the campfire my four guests and the other lodge guests compared notes – they had seen lions feeding on a kill. The lion kill was rather close to camp, just across the Boro channel, and throughout the night we heard interactions between lions and hyenas. The following morning we headed straight there and
upon arriving in the area saw the odd hyena skulking around, but our focus was on the lions. As we got close enough to see them feeding we were surprised to see there were only three of them, considering the amount of noise we had heard all night – there was a young male, a lioness and a cub of about a year old. The moment she saw us the lioness reacted and with a low growl took the young cub with her into the undergrowth on our left. Being unarmed and on foot with lions can be a risky business, but the young male showed absolutely no interest in us other than the odd glance. Pushing the envelope a bit, we got as close as I deemed safe without disturbing him – the safety of my four guests
was paramount. We observed him feeding for a few minutes and then decided to head off back the way we had come. We hadn’t gone very far when I heard a deep throaty growl from under a candle pod acacia nearby and saw it was the lioness lying there snarling with her tail lashing to and fro. I realised immediately we were in trouble and I huddled my guests behind me and instructed them to back away slowly, not taking my eyes off
Advertise in the Chobe Classifieds +267 75968294 Jo Clemence Karen Clemence
Accommodation
Bureau De Change
SENYATI SAFARI CAMP. Nine SC thatched campsites with power and own ablutions. Three SC chalets, each sleep up to 4. Bar overlooking waterhole. Located 8km from Kazungula on Nata Road. Phone +267 718 81306 or +267 718 26709. Www.senyatisafaricamp.co.bw Email: senyatisafaricamp@gmail.com
SERAME AIR-CON & REFRIGERATION, look no further for sales, service & repair. Contact: +267 71771753
Automotive AUTO WORLD. Spare parts and accessories for all local and imported vehicles. Opposite new bus rank, Kasane. Phone +267 625 2777, Fax +267 625 2666.
Auto Repairs T.M Motors. Specialises in all vehicle repairs, maintenance and overhauls. Inc: Air con maintenance MikeT. +267 71264875.
+267 72116479
Fire Extinguishers
Web Design
CAPE 2 CAIRO BUREAU DE CHANGE: Have changed their email addresses! You can now reach them on the following: cape2cairo@botsnet.bw & cape2cairo.jo@botsnet.bw . Look forward to hearing from you.
For Sale
FIRE STRYKER – These new fire extinguishers are : compact & portable. DO NOT HAVE TO BE SERVICED. Ozone friendly. What are you waiting for? Tel: +267 71771753 or email: mikeclemence@yahoo.com
Coffee Shop
Botswana Mobile Safaris Company
WEB DESIGN AND WEB HOSTING based in Kasane. So now you don’t have to chase your web master down south! tel. +267 74781613 email: cgraef@twincatusproductions.com www.twincactusproductions.com
THE COFFEE BUZZ is situated on the Kasane main road in a beautiful seculed garden. Menu includes: Breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers, muffins & daily specials. Open Monday to Saturday, 7.30am to 14.00pm. Contact us, facebook: coffee buss Kasane, phone +267 71318956.
Computers & Internet KASANE COMPUTERS. Internet café, WiFi zone, photocopying, laminating, bidning, typing, rubber stamps, ink cartridges, toners, CD/DVDs, PCs/Laptops, printers, PC repairs and more. Offices – Audi Centre, Kasane (opp. Chobe Marina lodge) and Kazungula Junction (near Engen Garage). Phone +267 625 2313 or fax +267 625 2537 or email: info@kasanecomputers.com.
Kasane based 100% foreign owned company with indefinite license major shareholder retiring Contact: Chobeproperties@mega.bw +267 71636464 or: pierrecatalina@hotmail.com
AFRICAN SAFARI CLOTHING. T shirts, shirts, trousers, m shorts, Hi-tech boots and shoes. Wolverine boots. Jackets, fleece, sleeveless fleeces, sarongs, caps, jewellery, soft toys and Botswana fridge magnets and much more. Edglo Shop, opp Kasane Primary Hospital, Kasane. Ph: +267 716 17677
Safari Uniforms JOIN US IN KASANE CAROLS BY CANDLELIGHT Put CHRIST into your Christmas Date: FRIDAY 16TH DECEMBER 2011 Place: At Audi Centre Time: 1845 for 1900 ALL WELCOME
KHAKI FEVER: Quality you can afford! Go to www.khakifever.co.za to download our latest catalog or email: mayperry@yahoo.com (00267) 71617602 for a sample viewing.
African Safari Jewellery Elephant hair bracelets handcrafted in gold and silver by Peter Hepburn Available in Kasane, Botswana at the Audi Centre (next to coffee shop, opposite Chobe Marina Lodge)
Phone: +267 6250 254 Fax: +267 6250 810 Email: cbhsaf@botsnet.bw or judy@chobenet.bw
Shop 14/15, Hunters Africa (New Arcade - Spar Complex) Fax/Tel: + 267 625 2483 Cell: + 267 721 16479 Shop 1E Kazungula Junction (Next to Engen) Tel: +267 625 2485 / +267 625 2193 www.cape2cairobureau.com
Tour Operators
BA
GK
96 Kasane Tel: 727
49
32
We provide the following; Chobe day trip - Game drive Boat cruise - Transfers to and from, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe
Purified Water
Safari Clothing Christmas Events
Tour Operators
ITENGE DRY CLEANERS & LAUNDRY. Services at Kasane, cnr Chilwero & Zambezi Road, next to AutoWorld. Phone: +267 625 0772 or +267 71309839. Email: itenge@gmx.com
AQUARITE BOTSWANA: Manufactures of purified bottled water and purified soda water. Refill your containers with purified water at a fraction of the cost. Based in Kasane (next to Tyremax in Kazangula) and Maun. Contact had office: +267 686 0283 or Lorraine +267 72989574.
Throughout the rest of our safari the lion charge was discussed at length around the campfire every night and every night the distance she turned away seemed to get shorter and shorter. It was a memorable experience which I wouldn’t want to relive again in a hurry.
ztchobe@gmail.com
Business Opportunity
Laundry Services
an elderly Canadian, asked if we had been in any danger. Unarmed, on foot, charged by an angry lioness!
P
Air-Con & Refrigeration
the lioness, warning the guests that a charge was imminent. And then she came bolting out toward us! All the training and advice I had, told me not to run and I raised my knobkerrie (walking stick ) and moved toward her shouting frantically. Fortunately she lost her nerve and stopped half way, turned and trotted off. What an adrenaline rush. We all stood there collecting ourselves nervously when one of my four guests,
8
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Box 784 Kasane Tel: 6250753 Cell: 74796707 Email: pukusafaris@botsnet.bw Fax: 002676250754
Chobe Day Trips
Game drives, boat cruises, border pickup. Livingstone and Victoria Falls day trips Cultural village tours No 1 Lady Travel Agent Beside Spar complex, Kasane Ph: +267 625 0131 or +267 716 25521 jeilatravel@yahoo.co.uk joyce.chika@yahoo.com
Umpengu Tours Camping overnight in Chobe 1 Night @ USD190 pp all inclusive. Mobile Safaris – Chobe Savuti, Moremi etc 5 nights @ USD1100 pp all inclusive. Boat Cruises and game drives Chobe Day Trip Victoria Falls – visit the magnificent Victoria Falls Transfers available
Plot 10 Kazungula, Botswana Ph: +267 717 8801 or +267 715 16924
Classified Safaris Activities
• Mobile camping safaris in all of Botswana’s national parks • Chobe game drives • Boat cruises and fishing • Victoria Falls day trips • Bird watching safaris • Educational tours • Transfers to airport and in and around the region Contact: Cell: +267 72537162/71421153/71691259 Email: classifiedsafaris@botsnet.bw or spokes@botsnet.bw www.classifiedsafaris.com
DREAMS SAFARIS We offer....... Game drives * Boat cruises Fishing * Walking safaris Night drives * Bicycle riding Mobile safaris Contact: +267 625 0332 Cell +267 7184 6965 or +267 7317 4300 Email: dreams@botsnet.bw misto_bw@yahoo.com.uk
www.dreamssafaris.com
100% Motswana owned company
P O Box 40, Kasane, Botswana Tel: +267 625 0384 Fax: +267 625 0223 Email: chobe@mega.bw
Kasane Christian Bookshop - New stock Bibles, books, CD/DVD’s, flowers, wreaths, gifts and more. Moved to front of Audi Centre
Zambezi Traveller
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27
conservation
Rhino survival – Botswana’s story Rhino have twice been on the verge of extinction in Botswana in the last century – both times a result of wholesale slaughter surrounding dense vegetation, is ideal for these endangered animals. It is also conveniently situated near a Botswana Defence Forces base, giving the soldiers something to protect and the poachers the notion that they should go home and try something else - piracy perhaps - for a living.
Black rhino after wallowing
By Peter Comley
O
n a game drive in Ngwezumba in the Chobe National Park some 70 km south of the river in late October 1983 I saw thirteen white rhino amongst a smorgasbord of other game. That was almost certainly the last time that anyone had a comparable sighting in the Chobe because sadly the rhino attracted more professional poachers from Somalia and Ethiopia than tourists. These poachers based themselves in Zambia beyond the reach of the security forces and set about destroying Botswana’s rhino population for the second time in the twentieth century. When the early European explorers reached Botswana,
A small batch of rhinos was brought to Botswana in the 1960s to see if they could make a go of it. This they did well enough to attract the attention of the poachers.
PHOTO: Peter Comley
white rhino crowded the plains and intrepid hunters could not move in the forests for all the nasty-tempered black rhino that browsed there and chased them around the trees. So they shot them all. By 1882, less than 30 years after Livingstone first set his boot of goodwill on Kalahari soil, all the white rhino in Botswana were gone, slaughtered in a killing frenzy that is not easy to understand today, but probably had its roots in the freedom that industrial revolutionaries suddenly felt when liberated from cotton mills. A small batch of rhinos was brought to Botswana in the 1960s to see if they could make a go of it. This they did well enough to attract the attention of the poachers. With the onslaught of poaching, a decision was taken to move the last remaining rhinos to a safe haven and the few survivors were translocated to Serwe Pan near Serowe. The area, with its large grass-covered depression, natural waterholes and
The safe haven was named the Khama Rhino Sanctuary and has subsequently flourished, with more of the squared-lipped (white) species introduced from South Africa in a swap for wild dogs.
With the black rhino declared locally extinct and the remaining white rhino incarcerated in Serwe Pan, Botswana had for the second time run out of wild rhino. Recognising the problem, the Wilderness Trust and Botswana’s Department of Wildlife colluded to re-introduce rhino into the wilds of Botswana for the second time. Thirty two white rhino and four black rhino have been introduced to Chief ’s Island in Moremi in a hugely successful move, to which 11 births attest.
Rhinos can and do move vast distances when they feel inclined. Whatever provoked one mother and her adolescent calf to leave her abundant home and trek hundreds of kilometres south down Chief ’s Island we shall never really know. They continued until they hit a fence, somehow circumvented it and arrived in the Makgadikgadi National Park where they set camp. A male has subsequently been introduced and the happy family is now regularly seen on game drives.
The best place to see unfenced rhino is undoubtedly on Chief ’s Island where most of them were reintroduced. Apart from the Makgadikgadi family, a few white rhino can also be seen in the Tuli Block. Even though they are fenced in, sightings of white rhino are a certainty at the Khama Rhino Sanctuary, while there is a chance to see black rhino as well. Email info@wildernesstrust.com or krst@khamarhinosanctuary.org.bw
Birding
Vulture count shows increase By Phil Zappala Birdlife Kasane is monitoring the local vulture population as a key indicator of the health of the ecosystem Vultures are globally threatened due to human interference as well as a lack of breeding success. One vulture may lay a single egg each year for two consecutive years and then stop for the next four years due to a range of factors. Vultures need protection now before it is too late. The main reasons for the decline are habitat degradation, powerline electrocutions, and poisoning. Poachers poison carcasses so that vultures will not reveal their activities. Farmers also poison carrion and leave it in the field to reduce the numbers of livestock predators, but the poisoned meat often destroys non-target species such as birds of prey.
Five species of vulture occur in the Zambezi region; the Whiteheaded Vulture, Whitebacked Vulture, Lappetfaced Vulture, Cape Vulture and the Hooded Vulture. It is important that more work is done in terms of vulture counts and surveys in known breeding sites to quantify the numbers of these birds. Birdlife Kasane carries out an annual count of the birds and nests at the Whitebacked Vulture breeding colony in Lesoma Valley. The count was done in August this year and regular checks take place throughout the year. This year 101 active nests were counted in comparison to 92 in 2010. Individual birds totalled 224 vultures. The increase this year indicates a recovery from poisoning by farmers in 2009. Poisoning of carcasses to kill problem predators is illegal and BirdLife Botswana, together with other organizations and
Whitebacked vulture
government, aims to tighten legislation to bring this problem under control. There are still some aspects to the counts that need to be addressed. Although the nests (active / inactive) are recorded together with visible chicks, it is difficult to know without a more intrusive approach, just what the breeding success and survival rate of the colony is. These issues are best addressed by extensive ringing of birds or some other means of individual identification, perhaps even telemetry. Additional data recorded during counts includes other
Suppliers of agrochemicals and veterinary products
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
species of vulture seen, species of the nesting tree, its condition and the number of nests in a specific tree. GPS co-ordinates are taken at the base of all the nesting trees on the Botswana side of the border, and for the trees in Zimbabwe a GPS estimate using a distance finder is taken. Vultures are an integral part of a healthy ecosystem, deserving of protection and monitoring to ensure their success and preservation. Email: blb@birdlifebotswana.org.bw
KAZANGULA
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
P.O.Box 879 Francistown Botswana Tel/Fax: 6252346 / 241 3906 Email: agrichemnr@botsnet.bw
Conservation
Seeking answers, providing solutions We explore the multi-faceted work of Wilderness Wildlife Trust in conservation of the wild areas where Wilderness Safaris operates in Zimbabwe. Hwange Anti-Poaching Project
By ZT correspondent
H
igh-profile operator Wilderness Safaris has a corporate philosophy of ploughing resources back into the areas in which it operates. Wilderness supports a wide variety of management, research and education projects in Zimbabwe and Zambia – either directly through the operational logistics provided by its camps, or through the independent Wilderness Wildlife Trust. The Trust funds a number of projects in Zimbabwe:-
Since 2007, with the aid of a vehicle funded by the Trust, anti-poaching efforts have combined the resources of Wilderness Safaris, the Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, the Painted Dog Conservation antipoaching unit, and various other NGOs. These units all conduct frequent patrols to control poaching. Hwange Ecology Researcher and Co-ordinator Hyaena cubs in Hwange National Park
Conservation
The Research Co-ordinator for Wilderness
As the fight for water gets more and more desperate we see nature unfold in the harshest of ways. The strongest, biggest and carnivorous are the big guns, whilst the timid, smaller ones become marginalized or eaten.
PHOTO: Gary Cantle
Bring on December, bring on the rains
Gary Cantle’s vehicle parked at the empty Sinanga Pan. Comment from Cantle, “I have never seen Sinanga Pan looking as dry, in all the years that I have been working on this project and to add, this pan is being pumped 24/7!”
ZT Correspondent
T
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
his year the old adage of October being ‘suicide month’ is very real. Zambezi Traveller has received heartbreaking stories of animals not surviving this period in Hwange National Park
Pam Birch, Wildlife and Environment Zimbabwe says : “We are desperately awaiting the rains: it has been a long and costly pumping season for everyone concerned and at this point, Hwange National Park is experiencing unbearable heat, with the animals travelling long distances in search of water.” Reports illustrate that this bountiful National Park is a tough park to manage; borehole pumps and piping are old and in constant need of maintenance. Volunteers from all walks of life with National Parks work tirelessly fighting fires, fixing boreholes, providing fuel. It is as times like this we really see how passionate environmentalists go out there and make a difference. One good shower of rain will start the reversal process immediately, hopefully as readers sit and peruse this issue the long awaited rains will have come.
Safaris Zimbabwe has established various projects over the last two years including monthly rhino monitoring exercises, monthly full moon 24-hour pan counts, road strip counts, spoor transects, assisting with lion and leopard research projects run by independent researchers, assessment of game water supply, measurement of borehole efficiency throughout the season, darting and snare removal, assisting with antipoaching, vulture counts, environmental impact assessment of camps, and various other projects. The Trust has provided a new vehicle for ecological work in the south-eastern section of Hwange National Park. Hwange Game Water Supply Wilderness Safaris has been supplying water to the wildlife in south-eastern Hwange since 1997, taking on the responsibility of drilling, pumping and maintaining a number of waterholes in and around the Linkwasha Concession. Last year saw two new windmills installed to replace diesel engines, as well as other experimental pumping systems.
Victoria Falls AntiPoaching Unit Since 2006 the Trust has been funding the Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit, a joint effort to combat poaching around the resort town. There has been an improvement in game sightings, with good sightings of sizable herds of elephant and buffalo, giraffe, zebra, kudu, eland and waterbuck as well as other less common plains game including sable. There have also been sightings of lion, leopard and wild dog. Hwange Spotted Hyaena Dilemma On the periphery of Hwange National Park livestock represents the wealth and resource of the community, and conflict with hyaena has particularly serious consequences. This project is investigating the competition between lion and hyaena, as well as quantifying and determining the characteristics of the human-hyaena conflict. The project forms part of the French National Centre for Scientific Research - Hwange Environmental Research and Development Project. Visit www.wildnernesssafaris.com
Wilderness safaris, HWange national Park
Visit www.friendsofhwange.com/ www.wezmat.org / www.zimwild.com
FIND YOUR “SELF” IN AFRICA
The new Miombo Safari Camp (formerly Miombo Lodge) reopens at the end of September with our new eco friendly treehouses and revamped and renovated entertaiment areas. Enjoy the old ambience but with a totally new experience! Our all year round waterhole gives you the chance to see elephants and buffalo amongst other game close up. Contact us for our specials for residents and visiting family and friends!
US$125 Full board
(includes lunch/dinner / breakfast and all teas and
Tel: (263-4) 498835/6 Email: reservations@thehide.co.zw
www.thehide.com
RATES
Contact your local agent or Miombo directly at: Bulawayo - Tel: +2639462765. Cell: +263772278230 bonnie@africanencounter.Org Miombo - Tel: +26318695, miombo2@mweb.co.zw Cell Miombo Camp + 263712640357
US$250 All inclusive
(includes game drives, drinks and full Board)
Miombo Is Situated On The Boundary Of The Park 15 Minutes Drive From Main Camp
T: + 263 13 43371/2/3 E: travelshop@wilderness.co.zw www.wilderness-safaris.com www.wildernesstrust.com
REGIONAL TOURISM
Victoria Falls in the spotlight The combined efforts of Southern Africa’s tourism industry have pulled off another major coup, hot on the heels of South Africa’s successful bid for the 2010 Soccer World Cup.
PHOTOS: TOM VARLEY
The Victoria Falls
By Rose Mukogo
T
he Regional Tourism Organisation for Southern Africa (RETOSA) is in a celebratory mood following acceptance of the invitation by two member states, Zimbabwe and Zambia to host the next annual meeting of the United Nations World Tourism (UNWTO) General Assembly. This prestigious event in 2013
will now be held in Victoria Falls and Livingstone and will bring the tourism chiefs of no less than 176 countries to our area. This is our opportunity to showcase to the world, the wonderful and unique story that the subregion has - unparalleled peace, warm welcoming people, fascinating cultural heritage and unsurpassed wildlife in pristine environments.
The 12 member states of RETOSA rallied together in the bid recognising that the conference would bring benefits to the region as a whole. The Tourism Minister of South Africa, Mr Van Schalkwyk boosted the effort saying, “I am ready to support the Zambia-Zimbabwe joint bid as it is a clear sign of regional integration and this is
coming only a year after Africa hosted the FIFA World Cup soccer tournament in 2010 through my country. Indeed, this is another Africa bid”. He added that this was part of his government’s commitment to helping Zimbabwe’s quest for economic recovery. This is a clear reference to the fact that previous host countries of the General Assembly
have seen accelerated growth in their tourism industry as a direct result. The deal was clinched at a meeting in Gyeongju, South Korea where the two ministers involved issued a joint communiqué. Zambian Information, Broadcasting and Tourism Minister Given Lubinda and his Zimbabwean counterpart Walter Mzembi
said , “We take this opportunity to welcome all member countries of the UNWTO to the mighty Victoria Falls in 2013. We promise them a uniquely African 20th session’’ “Zambezi Traveller can be counted as having played a part in lobbying and raising awareness of the event. Well done” - Rose Mukogo
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
GOVERNMENT
New moves on border efficiency
Zimbabwe government officials met with the private and public sectors in Victoria Falls to formulate solutions to problems encountered by tourists in border crossings and airport formalities
I
n the last year tourist arrivals through Victoria Falls’ various ports of entry have been on the increase. Operators have expressed concern with delays and congestion, with some cases of travellers missing their connections or failing to make pre-booked activities on their itineraries.
In October, Zimbabwe’s Ministry of Regional Integration and International Co-operation, in conjunction with United Nations Development programmememe, organized an assessment mission comprising of representatives from government ministries, border and airport authorities and the private sector.
“The objective was to carry out an on-site situational analysis of Victoria Falls Airport as well as the Victoria Falls and Kazungula border posts, with a view to identifying short to longterm solutions to enhance efficiency,” said Blessing Munyenyiwa, a private sector representative for the mission. “We had an amazing delegation with representatives from most of our ministries and chaired by the Permanent Secretary of the Ministry of Regional Integration and International Co-operation Mr. Chifamba.
Funny Photo!
PHOTOS: Kelly Landen
By ZT Correspondent
Some don’t worry about borders and regulations
“Tom Chuma and myself in partnership with Paty Katekete from the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority represented the industry. I would firstly like to take my hat off to this delegation as they were able to listen to us and look for ways to quickly improve some things which do not require major funding.
The Permanent Secretary called these the ‘low hanging fruits.’ “We visited all three entry points and spent time walking through them and focusing on areas needing improvement. We spent at least three hours at Kazungula, a couple of hours at the Victoria Falls border
post and two hours at the airport during the peak hours from 1200 to 1400, where we saw long lines for check-ins and arrivals.” “There are certain things which the Government has requested us to assist with, which we felt as an industry we could do. If we as private sector continue working together with the public sector, it is only a matter of time before we not only become the best tourist town in the region but one day in Africa, and in the future the best tourist town in the world. “A special thanks to Paty for the preparation prior to the mission; we will stay positive and keep that Zimbabwean flag flying proudly.”
Charity
The Rotary Club of Victoria Falls update Zambezi Traveller catches up with Anne Taggart, President of the Rotary Club of Victoria Falls.
PHOTO: JESSICA DAWSON
Do you have a funny photo, taken in the Victoria Falls area, that you’d like to share with us? If so, please email it, together with a description of the photo, where it was taken, the photographer’s name, and your contact number to: fjackson@iwayafrica.com
2011 – 2012 Vic Falls New Years presents:
LOCNVILLE
CRASHCARBURN THE FIRST DESCENT
GHAPI
CLINT & CO
Accommodation and Tickets on sale now in Harare, Bulawayo, Vic falls and online at www.fallsfest.co.zw Or email fallsfest@yoafrica.com, +263 774 432 800 We support a no under 18 drinking policy. U18 ticket options available
By ZT correspondent
T
he Rotar y Club of Victoria Falls, with the help of Todd Howell, Josh Wood and Dr. Mohamed Labib of the University Teaching Hospital in Lusaka, did a repair to a colostomy ‘operation’, on a little boy who lives in Victoria Falls. Through CAAZ and Ronnie Masawi, our club distributed sunscreen to the Albino Community of Victoria Falls and Hwange district. Together with the Rotary Club of the Netherlands, two boreholes were sunk at Cross Mabale, in the Dete area south of Victoria Falls. Eight schools were given packs of crayons, books, pens and pencils etc.These were given to the club by Adventure Zone and Vanessa Williamson. On 24 September, The Victoria Falls Primary School, held a fundraising “Golf Day.”
PHOTO: Blessing Munyeniwa
Do not trespass!
The Beast, Anne Taggart, President of the Rotary Club of Victoria Falls, Jackson Munyeniwa, past ADG Bulawayo South Rotary Club. The signed shirt in the picture will be auctioned off to raise more funds for Rotary.
Fr o m t h e p r o c e e d s raised, they handed over money to the Rotar y Club, to refurbish the girl’s ablution block at Chinotimba Primary School With the help of Zimbabwe Tourism Services and the Odysseys Travel Group, The Rotary Club of Victoria Falls, is in the process, of refurbishing the boy’s ablution block at Chinotimba Primary School. We are also putting down a ramp, from the car park to the classrooms, to make access
easier for the 14 wheelchair bound students. T h e M o s i O Tu n y a High School Interact club, collected various food items and handed the goods over, to the Chinotimba Old People’s Home On 13 November, Victoria Falls Rotarian’s held their second Annual Fun Golf Day. The money raised at this event, will go to various community projects
We were also very fortunate that the one and only “BEAST’, Tendai Mtawarira was in town. He has very generously given the club, a signed Springbok vest to auction off to raise more funds. Victoria Falls Rotarian’s would like to welcome any interested persons, to attend their Thursday luncheon meetings, which are held between 1 and 2pm at Ilala Lodge, Victoria Falls. President, Anne Taggart
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The Beast in Vic Falls Contd from page 1
Zealand at a place called Taupo – it was a 60 metre drop – the one here is 100 meters, taking it to a whole new level; I am giving it a miss! There are activities that we are absolutely not allowed to do – ice skating and snow skiing particularly. ZT: Let’s talk about your travels. Where do you enjoy going to the most? Beast: I love going to Europe. I love its rich heritage and
ZT: Paris is the place for romance; you need to take your wife there! Beast: We went there for our honeymoon. It was wonderful. ZT: I understand that you and Blessing Munyeniwa, Touring Director for Wilderness Safaris, are great friends. How did you meet? Beast: We were introduced to each other by a mutual friend; he is like a brother to me. That is why I am here in the Falls. ZT: I have children at Peterhouse, your old school; how do you think your Zimbabwean education prepared you for celebrity status?
Signing autographs at Victoria Falls Primary
history. My favourite place is France. ZT: Do you socialize with the French players? Beast: One of my close friends is Freddie Michalak who also plays for the Sharks and who is a French International player. He always shows us around France and we have a great time together.
Blessing Munyenyiwa with Beast and his wife Kuziva Relaxing on the river cruise
ZT: I am sure that everyone south of the Zambezi feels that you are a great ambassador for Southern Africa. You are now a South African citizen and I know this is very important to you, however, do you think you will ever come back to Zimbabwe?
ZT: Would you do something with Zimbabwe rugby - maybe start an academy? Beast: I am a trustee for a local Zimbabwean academy started by Adrian Garvey, another Zimbabwean Sharks player, and Brendon Dawson in Bula-
Beast: I believe my education both at Churchill and Peterhouse is in a class above the rest. I carry it with me proudly and it has stood me in good stead.
Enter into Elephants Walk Shopping Village & enjoy hours of browsing around some of the best speciality shops Zimbabwe has to offer. We have resident artists working & selling direct from our centre as well as invited designers displaying their creations in the various outlets. At Elephants Walk shops you will find: • Tribal African Art & Artefacts • Leather goods (crocodile, ostrich & other exotics) • Stone sculptures - wood - bronze • Original paintings, basket ware & pottery • Ethnic Fabrics • Taxidermy studio & Zebra Skins • Jewellery Studio • Gemstones • Books and Stationery • Clothing • Music • Kitchen & Catering Equipment • African Curio Market • Museum and Cultural Center • Natural Beauty Products • Bead, Wire and Scrimshaw Artists • Crocodile Cage Diving • DHL Courier & Shipping • Tour Operators & Booking Agents • Coffee shop, light meals, internet and more
I am a brand ambassador for Eland which is a property development company, so I have things going on with them. I am also a brand ambassador for BIC; it is a
Shopping at the Elelphant Walk
ZT: When did your love for rugby start? Beast: Mmm… when I was 14 at high school. By the time I was 16, I was playing first team despite being two years younger than most of the players, and then I knew this is what I wanted. Peterhouse opened doors for me; my coach Paul Davies introduced me to the Sharks trainers and then the ball really started rolling.
Zimbabwe right now could be a good sevens rugby nation. They can’t really play a good 15 man game just yet, but it’s probably coming.
A night out at the Boma
Beast: My wife is proudly Zimbabwean and loves her home town Harare. I think when my Springbok days are over I will probably live between Harare and South Africa. Blessing and I have been chatting; I am looking at some property options.
wayo, so I will always have an interest in the Zimbabwean rugby youth. ZT: How do you see Zimbabwean rugby? Beast: Many of us believe that
ZT: Do you think you will continue in the rugby world? Or will you go into the property market where you are involved a bit now I believe. Beast: By then I think I will be looking to do something different. I would still like to be an ambassador and encourage the youth.
really big business and there may be opportunities for me there. ZT: We look forward to having you back in Zimbabwe in the future, to let us convert you from beach back to our Zambezi bush. Photos by Blessing Munyeniwa Visit www.zambezitraveller.com
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Development
The Boma’s new face is just the start…
Birding
Counting heads at top eatery World Vulture Awareness Day on 3 September was commemorated with a vulture count at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge
Eating at the feeding point
PHOTO:GAVIN WISE
By Jono Hudson
W
orld Vulture Awareness Day on 3 September was commemorated with a vulture count at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge by avid local birding fundi Darryl Tiran and trainee guide Alec Zulu.
A daily feeding programmememe is conducted at the Lodge at1300 from below the terrace facing the ever-busy waterhole. The vultures began circling the feeding area at about 1230 in anticipation of a tasty meal courtesy of the leftovers and off-cuts from the world-renowned ‘Boma Place of Eating’ (and of course remains of guests who don’t pay their bills).
Entrance to the Boma
By ZT correspondent
A
frica Albida Tourism Group announces it will reinvest US$3.3 million during the next two years to keep its Victoria Falls property at the top of its game. “Re-investing in one’s products is the key to the success of any tourism business,” said Glenn Stutchbury, Managing Director. “We have already sited the new 20 room block for Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and start work this year. MaKuwa-Kuwa Restaurant, the Buffalo Bar and our reception are being refashioned in the first half of 2012.
“These projects will cost in the region of $3.3 million, a testament to our belief in Victoria Falls, tourism and the future of the industry in Zimbabwe. This will see the most significant investment since our opening in 1994.” First finished is the new entrance and branding of The Boma restaurant. Sara Norton of The Project Management Company was commissioned to design and manage construction of the new entrance in keeping with the traditional experience and theme of the restaurant.
the project management co. Co-ordinators of design and construction projects for homes, lodges and hotels. External and interior designs conceptualized. Renovations undertaken. P.O. Box CT534, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Sara Norton +263772606233 or +2631344074 Email – snorton@yoafrica.com
Some of the more experienced birds wasted no energy by joining the aerial traffic above, but rather lounged around in an African star chestnut tree overlooking the feeding site. The whirlwind of birds resembling the dust devils that are common around the waterhole at this time of year, began to swoop in lower as Alec and Darryl laid out the meal.
Dancing to the beat of the drum
Sara has expanded the existing concept of a cultural experience of traditional food and entertainment in an African village setting. Guests now arrive at a river bed scene, walking past pebbles and makoros (hand carved canoes), through a welcoming hut and into the kraal (cattle pens) area before entering the village itself. The entrance archway mimics the shape of a Matabele spear, whilst the entrance hut has been painted with traditional Ndebele insignia, and a unique chandelier made from the roots of an indigenous tree hangs from the roof. Cow horns and hides have been used effectively in the
PHOTOS: Africa Albida Tourism
reception area, adding authenticity to the kraal theme. “We are very pleased with this, the start of our development programmememe, and further developments are planned for the restaurant in 2012,” said Stutchbury. “The main cookhouse is being totally rebuilt and will result in a more efficient handling of the volumes of guests we have coming through the Boma. “The recent announcement by the Minister of Finance to extend the duty free allowance for refurbishment and capital expenditure has triggered many projects which will now be scheduled into the two year window” he said.
During the feeding frenzy a total of 87 Whitebacked Vultures and 48 Hooded Vultures were counted; also joining in the mêlée on the ground was a delegation of 22 Marabou Storks. In the sky above an aerial battle was taking place between vultures and two Yellowbilled Kites eager to snatch a tasty morsel from the vultures. A single Tawny Eagle swooped around the feeding site occasionally challenging a vulture for its share of the meal. Within 20 minutes the feeding site was cleared except for a few engorged whitebacks that were struggling to take off after such a hearty feast. No wing tags or leg rings were visible on any of the birds.
Results Whitebacked Vulture Total 87 (2010 total 97) Nil breeding adults 15 sub-adults 72 juveniles (2-5 years)
Hooded Vulture Total 48 (2010 total 66) 34 breeding adults 14 juveniles
Tawny Eagle 1- which has been around since 2010 Marabou Stork 19 (2010 total 22) Yellowbilled Kite 2 (2010 total 5)
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DEVELOPMENT
Steam train is back on track The Victoria Falls Steam Train Company is undergoing a reshaping, remodelling and relaunch of their business; from their corporate identity to the refurbishment of their historic carriages.
Fact File
The Victoria Falls Bridge was built as part of Cecil Rhodes’ vision of a Cape to Cairo railway link.
The bridge was officially opened by Professor George Darwin, son of Charles Darwin, on 12 September 1905. The Victoria Falls Hotel was built to accommodate passengers from the newly built railway. On 26 August 1975, peace talks between the Rhodesian Government and the African National Council (ANC) were held in a railway carriage parked midway on the Victoria Falls Bridge. The talks lasted nine and a half hours, but failed to reach agreement. The Victoria Falls Steam Train Co uses engine no. 512, a 1953 Garrat 14A steam locomotive built by Beyer Peacock in Manchester. prosperity. History may now be repeating itself with the relaunch of the Victoria Falls Steam Train Company set for December this year.”
By ZT Correspondent
A
“The relaunch will revitalise an already popular tourist attraction and inject new energy into the local economy,” said a spokesperson for the company. “With Zimbabwe and Zambia winning the bid to co-host the 2013 United Nations World Tourism Organisation General Assembly, Zimbabwe is once again receiving international recognition as a key tourist
The Victoria Falls Steam Train Co. is one of the few railway companies that use an authentic steam train.
www.steamtraincompany.com
PHOTOS: STEAM TRAIN CO.
n exclusive way to view the majestic Victoria Falls, from a steam train parked on the famous bridge, has been provided by the Victoria Falls Steam Train Company since February 1997. This unique experience is now undergoing a reshaping, remodelling and relaunch in every aspect of the business, from its corporate identity to the refurbishment of the historic carriages.
In 2008, the Victoria Falls Steam Train Co. Bridge Run was voted by British Airways’ Horizons Magazine as the 6th Most Spectacular Sundowners Spot in the world.
Victoria ictoria Falls, alls, Zimbabwe imbabwe
Main Picture: Steamtrain Above: Classic interior
destination. Research has indicated that previous hosts of the UNWTO General Assembly multiplied their gross domestic product by as much as 10 times.”
the railway from the station to Victoria Falls bridge, where it comes to a standstill while passengers relax in the lounging car or wander along the bridge itself.
Renewed confidence and financial investment in Zimbabwe will mean a greater inflow of visitors to the country, and numbers to the Falls will also increase, many of whom will jump at the opportunity to take such an historic experience. The steam train meanders along
“Our guests step back in time, revisit a romantic era of old-world elegance with First Class touches,” said the spokesperson. “At the turn of the 20th Century, the construction of the iconic bridge was evidence of optimism for future economic growth and
Game Drives Bird Watching safaris Walking Safaris Special interest Safaris & more... Contact us for your wildlife experience... Tel/fax: 013 45821 Cell: 0712 209 144 Email: cat@yoafrica.com
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Zambezi Traveller
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History
The thrill of history coming alive A guided tour of the Victoria Falls Bridge provides insight as well as unexpected thrills to rival the adrenaline sports also on offer By Carrie DeJiacomo
A
PHOTO: COurtesy of Carrie DeJiacomo
s a civil engineer working for the US Department of Transportation, I was interested in the differences in transport systems between the US and Zimbabwe. Street signs and roadway patching have not been modernized, yet a steel structure spanning the Victoria Falls gorge spoke of great sophistication. A tour of the bridge was a highlight of my stay. Anyone can walk over the bridge and many take a fleeting adrenaline rush from bungee jumping off the bridge or zip lining across the canyon. What people don’t realize is that the best adrenaline rush comes with the bridge tour.
Courteney and Dawna Johnson, Ron Wiedner and Carrie DeJiacomo posing with the infamous George designer of the bridge
Our afternoon started with lunch at the Bridge Café, where we watched people take the bungee jump, swing and zip line. My sister and I thought we would look into zip lining once we were done with the bridge tour.
the gorge without any scaffolding. He told stories with such enthusiasm that we were spellbound, but we still had no idea what was to come.
The tour started with a man seated at a drafting board working on a set of engineering plans. He introduced himself as the Site Construction Engineer for the Victoria Falls Bridge, Georges Imbault, and he had stories to tell.
Our thought of a bridge tour was to walk from one end to the other to look at and discuss the structure. Were we ever wrong! Harnesses were brought out. Concern was expressed by members of the party, as we were suited up and given ear pieces to hear the Site Engineer talk.
The actor playing Imbault talked about the people in the town and the men that designed and worked on the construction of the bridge back in the early 1900s. He talked about them building this structure hundreds of feet above
He led us out to the bridge where we discovered we were to walk along the catwalk on the north side. We were instructed how to use the snap hooks on our harness, making sure to alternate them as we moved along the safety rope.
One person’s hands began to shake so much that attaching the hooks became difficult. Two other members of the party said they didn’t think they could go through with this as they didn’t like heights. I also don’t care for heights but the civil engineer in me was thrilled and I think everybody in our group went along with it for me. We crossed the 650 foot bridge on the catwalk constantly changing our snap hooks to ensure our safety. We climbed ladders and ducked to avoid hitting heads on the steel trusses. We admired the beauty of the structure, the falls and the river below and marveled that they built this over 100 years ago. Imbault pointed out details of the bridge, from the original steel manufacturer’s stamp on one of the trusses to the steel ball bearings at the base of the arch which allow the bridge to move as the steel expands and contracts with temperature. The most amazing part of this magnificent structure is the location, spanning a gorge in the mist and spray of the Victoria Falls. To build a steel structure in that environment is risky, to have it last over 100 years and still be in good shape is impressive. It is a structure to be proud of. As we finished our tour, my sister and I decided to forego the zip line as we couldn’t have gotten a better adrenaline rush than the bridge tour. We left with an experience we’ll never forget.
Development
New hotel opens for the adventurer is more interested in adventure activities than grand accommodation.
By ZT correspondent
A
dventure Zone have revamped a budget hotel in Victoria Falls to satisfy overland tourists, backpackers and the budget traveller who
PHOTO: Adventure Zone
Leaders of the Victoria Falls community as well as local and overseas agents gathered at the official opening of the Adventure Zone Lodge at the end of October.
Opening night
“We are an ideal hotel for clients not intent on spending time in their rooms, but who really want to get out and spend their money on all the activities on offer here,” said Brent Williamson, managing director. “ We are ready for the Christmas rush, and I am confident that we can give the overlander, backpacker and budget traveller true value for money.”
Pensioners lunch
For some time Adventure Zone has run a smaller lodge catering for the overland and backpackers market, but Williamson told ZT that they needed to find a better location. The opportunity came up to take over and rehabilitate the old Encore Budget Hotel.
PHOTO: Nico Westraat
Within a four month period, with the assistance of Sara Norton from The Project Management Company, the Adventure Zone team transformed the previously neglected hotel, with a new pool, lawned camp site, tastefully decorated rooms, and comfortable open restaurant.
The resaurant
Nico Westraat from African Food Settlers has been contracted to manage the restaurant. Guests can look forward to tasty meals at affordable prices. Westraat has also taken this opportunity to share his food with Victoria Falls pensioners; once a month they enjoy a meal in the garden, on the house.
PHOTO: BAYNHAM GOREDEMA
Adventure Zone Lodge has 66 similar sized rooms with ensuite showers and toilet facilities. “We have an internet hotspot and an activities desk that can book any activity on offer in the town,” said Williamson. Website: www.adventurezone.com
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ACTIVITIES
Zambezi Rafters chosen to scout river in the DRC
The expedition is the first step in opening up the DRC for adventure tourism and is being driven by the Minister of Environment, Tourism and Conservation for the DRC, Mr. Jose Endundo Bononge.
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here is nothing I enjoy more that spending time in the company of a good story teller. I had the privilege of spending a few hours with Cephas Moyo, team leader of the Shearwater expedition team.
Zambezi Traveller: So Cephas what was the lead up to this adventure of yours? Cephas: Two months of planning and looking at Google maps (that really was the only information we had to go on) with Allen Roberts, Operations Director for Shearwater, at his home. On one occasion his wife Toni-Anne said “You boys need a woman to put some sense into you – this expedition is madness!” Maybe that was why Allen couldn’t find his passport when it was time to go?!! ZT: Can you give me a little more background. Cephas: Lonrho are assisting the DRC government with the development of tourism and the area around the village of Pwerto, on the banks of Lake Mweru, was considered a good spot to explore adventure tourism with jet ski, jet boats, sunset cruises, fishing (which is excellent I believe), and rafting on the Luvua River which flows out of Lake Mweru. This is where we come in. Allen Roberts was invited to put an experienced team of Zambezi rafters together to scout this river to see if Rafting could be a viable activity. ZT: Well done – fantastic that Zimbabwean Zambezi rafters were chosen. Cephas: Yes a great honour and opportunity for us. We are very lucky. ZT: Name your team. Cephas: Gordon Kagura and
Kazibert Mupowsiwa both trip leaders for Shearwater rafting and between the two of them have 20 years of rafting experience,“Titanic”Shoko Senior Shearwater Rafter with 6 years of rafting experience. Ben Hougard, freelance guide, Garth Fowler who has Shearwater rafting experience but who is now part of the Shearwater marketing department, Boyd Taylor freelance kayaker, Lawrence “Batch” freelance videographer and photographer and official videographer of the trip and lastly myself. ZT: What was the general feeling about this expedition? Cephas: Honoured and excited, but truthfully we were all a bit nervous we didn’t have much information to go on and the information that we had made it quite terrifying. There were stories of giant crocs, rebel fighters and crazy white water. ZT: How did you get there? Cephas: Well some of us drove all the way from Vic Falls in a vehicle sponsored by Flame of Africa and others (no names mentioned), flew in style to Lubumbashi and out again! ZT: What was that journey like? Cephas: Good tar roads all the way through Zambia even to Lubumbashi, but let me tell you all hell broke loose at
We named the first one“Simba” after an old man that we met near the rapids. In fact there were three rapids, Simba 1, Simba 2 and Simba 3. It was a good start and we looked forward to the next day. ZT: So what happened on day 2?
PHOTO: SHEARWATER
By Frances Jackson
Tatani Shoko, Cephas Moyo, Garth Flower Seated (left to right) Kaziberth Muposiwa, Gordon Kagura
the DRC border. Fortunately Lonrho had sent a facilitator down to meet us at the border and that did help a bit, we managed, we got through! ZT: When you got to Lubumbashi what was the programmememe? Cephas: Well we got to stay in the fantastic Karavia hotel owned by Lonrho who assisted in coordinating this expedition. In fact we spent two nights there getting organized. Brilliant experience. We then got on a plane with all our kit and flew to Pwerto, the small village where we were going to be based. Meeting the French pilot that took us was the scariest part of our trip! Imagine the French accent “Never, never, this expedition is too dangerous, 8 Germans they died on this river, huge crocodiles, crazy, you cannot
“Exploring and documenting a ‘new’ river for white river rafting and kayaking has to be one of the most exhilarating exercises known to adventure enthusiasts, and this was definitely the case for the Shearwater expedition that was tasked with identifying a suitable adventure tourism route on the Luvua River, a tributary of the Congo, in the South East of the Democratic Republic of Congo, in October. “ Garth Fowler, Shearwater
do this!” ZT: Arriving in Pwerto – what was it like? Were you on the banks of Lake Mweru? Cephas: I don’t have the right words for this, so beautiful, just so beautiful. The lodges, the scenery just stunning. ZT: What was the feeling of the team once you had arrived and unpacked? Cephas: Well actually there was a bit of nervous tension in the air. We were a bit scared and I think we were all wondering if we should do this. Coms with locals were difficult, no English spoken only Swahili, French and Bemba nothing that we could speak. I reassured the guys that we were going to scout the river by helicopter first; we are all experienced and if we did not like what we saw, there was no way we would do it. ZT: So who went up in the helicopter to scout? Did the entire team go up? Cephas: Aaah I was hoping that I could avoid this part of the story! Actually half of us went up in the heli for the first scouting trip and the team leader disgraced himself by getting thoroughly sick! The worst thing was that everyone in the chopper could hear it
because of the location of my headset mic! I was dropped off and I went straight to sleep! The remainder of the team then went up for their recce. We were pleased with what we saw. The pilot was brilliant and we got a good idea of what was ahead of us. The river was very easy for portage, a huge relief. We saw the waterfall where the Germans lost their lives and it was obvious that we could scout round it. There were villages all along, fisherman in makoros, so we were very confident that this was doable. ZT: Did you see any giant crocs. Cephas: No they have been eaten. The only thing that hasn’t been eaten around there are the birds; even the snakes have been eaten. ZT: So when did you get cracking? Cephas: Actually the same day. After the aerial scouting we headed off late afternoon for our first run. It was an easy entrance into the river from the lake. We went for about 15-20kms before we had our first rapid. Absolutely stunning and a pleasure to do the paddle. The first rapids were good, Grade 2/3 rapids.
Cephas: We did a full day from 06.30 am to 05.00 pm. The helicopter flew us to a point after the previous day’s paddle; we saw the most beautiful channels, like a giant spider web in the water, lots of islands - it was spectacular. Our first rapid we named Humpty Dumpty for obvious reasons! It was a grade four, a beautiful rapid, then we went through a few more grade two and three’s. It was such an exciting day, knowing that we were the first ones to have done this. I was pleased with our progress; the team’s experience was showing, there was a good understanding of white water. We then came to a spot where the best decision of the trip was made. We looked at this rapid and the guys were really excited by beautiful waves that they could see and they were planning their entrance. I put the brakes on and asked ‘Can we see the bottom of this?’ I made us stop in an eddy and told the young ones to go and scout this rapid properly and that we were not going through it unless we could see the end. When they came back, they said‘Mr Moyo thank you very much.’What lay ahead was what made me name this rapid ‘Leading to Death!’There was a massive hole ahead that was highly unlikely that anyone would ever come out of – never mind the waterfall that followed. We could all understand how the German expedition all those years ago had lost their lives. Contd page 37
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Sports
Records fall at Msuna 2011 The 2011 Msuna Fishing Competition brings new records amidst intense heat and friendly rivalry.
Larry Cumming at prize giving
the largest chessa (1.50 kg). The heaviest vundu (11 kg) was caught by Paul Benny. Simon Hobday with his winning bream
By Judy Cumming
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emperatures were reaching record highs in Zimbabwe and we were melting. Hwange town was recorded as the third hottest place in
Africa the day before we set off to Msuna for the annual fishing competition. T h e t e a m s g a t h e re d from far and wide and the festivities began. Beer was
Tom Varley in the wild documenting meercats
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guzzled, hooks were sharpened and boat motors trimmed ready for the start. On Friday afternoon after the captains meeting, where we remembered Ronnie Hill (ex Springbok hooker) and Dave Tunney (past chairman), 28 teams roared off along the Zambezi to begin the challenge. Tunney had revived the Msuna Competition six years previously as a competition to be enjoyed. The men took that to heart again this year.
Sunday morning dawned and the challenge was on again, the last chance to land some good fish before the final weigh-in. The weigh bay was busier than the previous three sessions and records were broken.
‘The Grand’ (Wayne, Mike and Billy Querl and Grant Brebner) won the overall competition this year with a total score of 350.16. In second place, and less than ten points behind, were ‘Leopard It was extremely hot on the Ridge’ (Greg Mitchelson, water but the men endured it. Gerald Oosthuizen, Gordon On both days the wind came MacLean and Steve Lea) up in the afternoon, a catch-22 with 340.81 points and one situation where you needed to man down. Third position cool down but the wind made went to ‘Floating Kapentas’ (Mike Howard, Simon it harder to fish. On Saturday afternoon the Hobday, Danny MacDonrods were put aside as fans ald and George Parkin) with gathered in the Keepnet to 264.43 points. Simon Hobday won cups for watch the Currie Cup final. By all accounts the Lions the largest bream (2.14 kg) and deserved to win but a few barbel (2.30 kg). The heaviest Sharks supporters skulked tiger was caught by Lex Lucas (6.56 kg) and Steve Lea landed away at the last whistle.
Finally, after an afternoon spent in the pool, around a bar or horizontal in an airconditioned room, everyone gathered on the water in the
late afternoon for the traditional tie-up. A floating island of boats drifted along the river, everyone enjoying the balmy evening. Of course it always ends with the heavies giving roosters and soaking the crowd – that is tradition too!
Photo:ZT correspondent
PHOTO: Mike Howard
PHOTO: Mike Howard
Bongani Dholdhlo, Chief Mvutu, Roger Parry
Bongani Dholdhlo and Roger Parry of the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust were happy to host a visit by Chief Mvutu to their new wildlife orphanage and research centre near Victoria Falls. The Trust is working closely with local authorities, traditional leadership, non-government organis ations and rural communities to mitigate the impact of wildlife on communal farmers in Chief Mvutu’s area. Mr. Dhlodhlo and Mr. Parry are well known for their positive contributions to wildlife and communities in the Victoria Falls area.
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
37
PROFILE
A talent which broke down barriers
He was born totally deaf, but his work now adorns the homes of sculpture lovers worldwide. By Stuart Danks
T
ruly an example of turning adversity into success, Shadrack or Shadu Chatsama has proved how much can be achieved through persistence and developing one’s unique strengths. Chatsama is the only artist marketed by Stone Dynamics Gallery who creates more traditionally representative sculpture. Focusing on wildlife, the detail of Chatsama’s work is exceptional and puts him in a league above conventional curio art.
a rudimentary form of sign language which he uses to communicate with those close to him. When he was about fifteen he became interested in stone sculpture because his father was an artist. It soon became apparent that Shadu had great talent in stone carving, and by
the time he was 22, he was able to move to Harare and lead an independent life as an artist in his own right. Since then he has become one of Zimbabwe’s leading animal sculptors - his work displaying a sensitivity second to none, in part due to his heightened senses
of touch and sight. Among other exhibitions, Chatsama’s work has been shown at the National Gallery in Harare (1988); Suedafrikamesse in Zurich (2001); Afro Pfingsten in Winterthur (2001); and Home & Garden, Zurich (2002).
ECO TOURISM
New Organic Herb Garden for The Victoria Falls Hotel
Chatsama was born in Rusape, 150 kms east of Harare, in 1948. His early years were very difficult as there were no facilities for assisting or educating deaf children. He was raised in a family of seven, which did not help matters, and he learned Zambezi Rafters chosen to scout river in the DRC Contd from page 35 We could all understand how the German expedition all those years ago had lost their lives. ZT: Scouting is obviously very important? Cephas: Yes, before going through any rapid you always have to know where the bottom/end is, do you have time before you hit the next one? Can you rescue someone if they come out? You have to have a plan in mind. Remember too, we are scouting this river for tourism. ZT: How much further down the river did you go? Cephas: Basically after these rapids we stopped. But this day had been so amazing that we planned to come back the next day and do a re-run of the rapids after the channels. “Batch” who had been videoing the day before from a Kayak went up in the helicopter and concentrated on getting some aerial footage. It was a great morning and we all had fun doing the re-runs. ZT: So do you think it has potential for adventure tourism and a tourist rafting experience? Cephas: Definitely. There are no real roads there, but I am sure a plan can be made for roads to the drop-off and pickup points, roads will have to be made- flying everywhere will make it too expensive. It is so incredibly beautiful it is bound to be a great tourist destination. After talking with Cephas I felt excited for the team that had had this experience and I knew they had memories that would last a life time. I also thought how wonderful that all of this has been captured on camera and I am definitely going to be poking my nose around to see some of the footage.
PHOTO: Stuart Danks
PHOTO: BAYNHAM GOREDEMA
Shadrack Chatsama
“I had my most intense aesthetic experience when I was suddenly exposed to the sublime beauty of the sculpture executed by African artists.” - Pablo Piccasso
For two years The Victoria Falls Hotel have been processing all their organic kitchen waste using vermiculture. Apart from herbs taken from their smaller herb garden in the Stables section of the hotel, they now have a newly developed organic garden outside their kitchens. Rueben Mpofu, dedicated organic gardener is seen here with his beautiful basil plants.
PERMANENT EXHIBITION Victoria Falls Hotel, Zimbabwe Tel: +263 13 - 41757 Email: artafrica@bluewin.ch www.stonedynamicsgallery.co.zw
Cufflinks for Adventurers, in Sterling Silver HASLEMERE LANE, UMWINSIDALE, HARARE TEL: 860131 MOB: 0772 414 414 WWW .PATRICKMAVROS.COM HARARE@PATRICKMAVROS. COM
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Sport
Flatdogs tame Grizzlies Two highly competitive Zambezi cricket teams battle it out in 46 degree temperatures at the local Victoria Falls cricket club.
By Garth Pritchard
G
rizzlies, Cougars and Flatdogs, the three Cricket League teams that compete in the Victoria Falls Winter Cricket League. The Flatdogs hail from Kasane, Botswana while the Grizzlies and Cougars are the Vic falls based teams. We recently played our League final between the Grizzlies and a resurgent Kasane Flatdogs. Winning the toss was critical in the energy sapping heat.
PHOTO: Tracey Mulder
John Dewdney retires
The Flatdogs won the toss and inserted the Grizzlies into Bat. The wicket held true
for the first few overs with the odd ball bouncing. Opening bowlers for Kasane Ken Web-
PHOTO: Tracey Mulder
The Grizzlies and the Flat dogs
ster and youngster Damian Mulder were swinging the new ball and it wasn’t long before the first wicket fell with the score on 41 runs. Wickets fell regularly with contribu-
tions from Garth Pritchard 36, Graham Rowe 44 not out, Sean Rowe 28 and extras chipping in with a top score of 50 runs??? Grizzlies saw out their 40 overs with 7 wickets down for 222 runs. Best bowler for
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The Flatdogs was Andrew Cummings with 2 for 35 off 6 overs. The Flatdog’s run chase got off to a slow start with the wickets of Ken Webster 4 and Pete Hepburn (The Wall) 1 falling early in the innings. Craig Foaden and Andrew Cummings then took on the bowling attack plundering 49 runs to Craig and a 50 retired to Andrew with a stand of 133 runs. Going in at the halfway break the Flatdogs were looking good at 3 for 143. Things did not go all The Flatdogs way after the break, Robin Brown and Sean Rowe were brought into the attack which saw the run rate slow dramatically and wickets fall regularly with Robin Brown taking 3 for 18 off 6 overs and Sean taking 1 for 35 off 6 overs. Throughout this period Pradeep held his ground and put together what was in the end a match winning innings of 40 runs for the Flatdogs. The Flatdogs won the game by 2 wickets in the end but a good fight was put up by the injury-wracked Grizzlies. Well done to The Kasane Flatdogs for a good win we look forward to the next Winter League in 2012. Grizzlies captain paid tribute to long standing team mate John Dewdney as he retires from cricket. “ Thanks Bullet, we have enjoyed our years of cricket with you.”
REGISTERED ESTATE AGENTS Victoria Falls Estate Agents (Private) Limited Shop 13, The Trading Post, Landela Complex Livingstone Way, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Tel: 013 44415, 013 44831
Industrial Sites, Victoria Falls, opposite Marange Motors
Tel: (013) 44870 / 1 Fax: (013) 44871 Mobile: 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 - Mr Neil Norman Email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Please contact us for all your real estate requirements Sales, Valuations, Property Management If you looking for a property in Falls or in the region, please call us and we will do our best to assist you. Principle Registered Estate Agent: Sindiso Tshuma Cell: 0773 736639 / 0712 375069 Assistant Donnie: 0773 503246 Directors: Strath Brown (Chairman), Dawn Brown, Paul Alichindamba
TR
AD
EE For school, formal, NQ UI RIE leisure, sports, infants... SO NL we have the socks for you Y DISTRIBUTED BY THE ZIMBABWE HOSIERY COMPANY (PVT) LTD
Bulawayo - Head Office 3 Liverpool Road P.O.Box 8133, Belmont, Tel: (263 9) 462333/4, Fax: (263 9) 460551 Email:sales@zimhosiery.co.zw Harare 43 (Old) Enterprise Road, Newlands Tel: (263 4) 746503 Fax: (263 4) 746503 Cell: 0714 413 438 Email:cburns@zimhosiery.co.zw Victoria Falls P Bag CT647, Victoria Falls Cell: 0773 563 068 Email: icdupreez@gator.co.zw
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Conservation
Science in the service of rhino security Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust contributed to war on rhino poaching with the collection of tissue samples which will enable DNA analysis and a detailed database on each individual animal. Among the country’s various veterinary and conservation organisations working in unison, Victoria Falls-based Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust is playing a valuable role by assisting in a programmememe that employs the latest scientific techniques. In 2010 Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority embarked on a dehorning operation in Matabeleland North and South to protect the remaining rhino in its parks. Together with the Department of Veterinary Services, Wildlife Vet Unit, WHWT assisted in the operation of taking blood and tissue samples from each animal for DNA analysis while it was immobilized.
Dr. Masterson dehorning rhino
PHOTO: Jessica Dawson
By Paul Murray
P
oachers are waging a relentless and bloody war against the rhino throughout southern Africa and from some media reports it would seem nothing can be done to stop them. So it’s heartening to report that Zimbabwe is playing a crucial role in the struggle against this Far Eastern led industry.
While Parks are taking immediate action to remove the commercial target – the horn -from the rhino, WHWT is working towards securing a more robust future for them. For many years rhino have been translocated into safer areas to build new populations, and this will continue. But by doing this we are changing the natural genetic mixing process that is so vital for creating and maintaining a healthy population. So the Department of Veterinary Services Wildlife Unit, aided by funding sourced by WHWT, is building a database for each of the dehorned rhino, which will enable ZPWMA to gain a broad picture of the genetic relationships of the rhinos. This will enable them to make more informed decisions on which individuals to move in future translocations.
39
Fact File Rhino horn is composed primarily of keratin, the same substance that makes up fingernails and hair. In many eastern countries rhino horn is sought after as a medicine for ailments as well as an aphrodisiac. There is absolutely no scientific evidence that rhino horn has any medicinal or aphrodisiac properties. The demand is perpetuated by centuries of cultural misinformation about its benefits. For the same reasons, demand for tiger products has brought them close to extinction. Dehorning is a controversial practice but appears to have little or no negative effect on the behavior or wellbeing of the rhino. Currently the IUCN lists the Black Rhino as critically endangered and the White Rhino as Near Threatened. Recent technological advances mean that DNA can now be extracted from the horn itself, providing more ammunition for the fight against poaching. If a rhino horn is confiscated from the black market, a simple DNA analysis on the horn allows comparison to any of the existing rhino DNA records to see if it has a Zimbabwean origin. Although it’s too late for that particular animal, it helps build a valuable picture which can result in the prosecution of the individuals involved in the supplying the horn. In fact a recent conviction has already been obtained by other agencies using this technique. Visit www.wildhorizons.com
Conservation
Vets visit with animal health drive Ndlovu Animal Health Centre, Victoria Falls, is the base for a campaign by AWARE Trust to sterilize domestic dogs and cats in an effort to protect the wildlife of the area. sterilized. A burgeoning cat population can decimate small indigenous wild mammals. All AWARE campaigns are performed in areas adjacent to wildlife areas; vaccinated dogs will not pass contagious diseases on to wild carnivores, nor rabies on to a person. Sterilized females will not have puppies, and in a village setting this can be the difference between life and death, as a lactating bitch’s food demand is three times that of a normal female.
By ZT Correspondent
T
he brindle male bristles stiffly. This embattled old boy can tell from the melee of people and dogs ahead that there is something to be concerned about. He plonks his rear end down and braces his straightened forelegs defiantly against the dirt. His anxiety doesn’t last long however; after a quick sedative injection, he relaxes in a warm glow.
“Not all of our patients are keen to participate in the programmememe,” says Dr Lisa Marabini, nursing fresh puncture wounds in her left hand, an occupational hazard. “Although many rural folk have a strong affinity with their dogs, we find we constantly have to re-teach restraint and handling techniques. Occasionally a dog is so incensed by attempts to restrain it that we will have to use a pole syringe or dart gun on it.”
Vaccinating dogs at Ndlovu Animal Health Centre
As the day progresses a steady stream of skinny tan bitches with voluminous undercarriages is brought into the makeshift operating theatre at the Veterinary Department’s Ndlovu Animal Health Centre, where, one by one, they are anaesthetized and prepped for surgery. Many of the dogs are in such poor condition that they are at increased risk of mortality from
the procedure, but the AWARE Trust has so far successfully sterilised 417 dogs and cats in communal lands around the country (61 in the latest campaign) without losing an animal. Meanwhile, outside the building, every dog presented is vaccinated against rabies and ‘5 in1,’ treated for ticks and fleas, and de-wormed,
bringing the total number of vaccinated animals to 2418. Sick dogs are also treated (a puff adder bite, a case of parvo, eye conditions and an abscess in the case of the Ndlovu clinic). The entire service is provided free of charge to the community.
It costs AWARE about $5000 to run each ten day campaign. The Ndlovu campaign was supported by Wild Horizons Trust, Lion Encounter, Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit, The Victoria Falls Hotel, Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and the Boma, Ilala Lodge, NSPCA, David Scott, Merial, Medi-Vet, and the Department of Veterinary Services.
Email lisa@awaretrust.org; Visit www.awaretrust.org Visit www.awaretrust.org
SOLAR HOT WATER SOLUTIONS FOR HOTELS, RESORTS AND BUSH CAMPS
Unsuspecting feral hotel and restaurant cats in Victoria Falls are also trapped and
One stop ground handling and activity provider Where three countries meet on the banks of the Zambezi
Victoria Falls | Livingstone | Chobe
For Supply and Installation contact
Tours, transfers and activities
Zimbabwe +263 772 778 146 Zambia +260 977 770 251
White water rafting | Canoeing | Hirewire | Elephant back safaris | Lion encounters | Helicopter flips.
Accommodation
solarhart-africa@solahart.com.au
Elephant Camp - Luxury accommodation overlooking the gorge. Imbabala Safari Lodge - Comfortable accommodation, good fishing, great game viewing on the banks of the Zambezi. Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571, 42013, 44426 or 44282 Cell: +263 (0) 712 213 721 or + 263 (0) 772 209 118 Email: info@wilhorizons.co.zw or threeten@wildhorizons.co.za
Botswana +267 714 10981 Namibia +264 811 244 740
www.wildhorizons.co.za
40
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Advertise in the Victoria Falls Classifieds hudsons@yoafrica.com Mel Hudson
Activities
Artists & Galleries
Shearwater Victoria Falls. Experience the Big 5 on Shearwater’s private game reserve, just 12km from Victoria Falls town and enjoy seeing Africa’s rare black rhino. Contact Shearwater Central Reservations P.O. Box 125, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Tel:+263 (0) 13 44471-3, 42058, 40056-8 Fax:+263 (0) 13 44341 Cell:+263 (0) 712 406 668, +263 (0) 773 461 716 reservations@shearwatervf.com
The Zambezi Helicopter Company. View the vastness of the Victoria Falls and it’s surrounds the best way! Take a helicopter flip and enjoy the magnificent splendour of the Zambezi River and it’s Falls. Contact The Zambezi Helicopter Company, Box 125, Zimbabwe. Tel +263 (0) 13 43569, cell: +263 (0) 773 080 909, +263 (0) 712 324 422. Tel/fax: +263 13 40059. Email: zhc.reservations@highestec.co.zw. Skype: zambezihelicopters Web site: www.zambezihelicopters.com Vic Falls Adventure Zone White Water Rafting - Half Day, Full, Overnights, 2.5 Day and 5 Day trips. Victoria Falls Adventure Zone Canoeing - Wine Route, Half Day, Full Day, Overnight & 2.5 Day trips. Vic Falls Adventure Zone Elephant Back Safaris, Lion Encounter, Tours & Transfers, Sales booking office for all other activities in town. Contact: info@ adventurezonevicfalls.com or groups@adventurezonevicfalls.com, Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44424/42051.
Wild Horizons is a “one-stop’ activity provider offering a range of tours and activities including rafting, canoeing, elephant back safaris and high wire activities. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw Sealent Safaris - Specialises in accomodation, tours, Chobe Trips, Kariba Ferries, Mana Pools. Office No 16, Sopers Arcade. Tel : 013 40237, 0772 279083. Email : cynthia63us@yahoo.com.
Fresh Produce
Braiding For all your relaxation & body treatments. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Tel : 013 45039, Cell: +263 772 607 940, email: leomarowa@gmail.com. We also do all Hair Treatments, No 5 Pumula Centre.
Cell Phones - brand new, guaranteed for one year: Nokia, Samsung and Motorolla. Genuine handsets at the officially appointed distributor for Victoria Falls at distributor prices. Contact Tradepower, Victoria Falls. Tel: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712587123/0774022312 Email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Zambezi Traders. For all your fresh fruit and vegetables. We can supply hotels and lodges. Fresh produce in stock daily. Located 283 Holland Rd, Industrial area, between Swift and Jaggers. For orders call +263 (0) 13 42237/44008/9. Mobile: +263 (0) 772 399 779 or +263 (0) 913 462 343
Cigars
Hairdressing Salon
Ritmeester and Blackstone cigars – Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls are the distributors for these superior cigars. Telephone us on (013) 44870 / 0774 022 312 We do not sell individual packets of cigars, we only supply shrink wraps to the trade.
Victoria Falls Hair Salon - We do all types of hairdo’s, manicures and pedicures. 307 Parkway Drive. Tel + 263 13 40981, Cell + 263 712 716 930
e Outspan Beef - 87 Barry Road, Victoria Falls. New Butchery. A good selection of Meat, Cheeses and Seafood. For orders Call Sandy 013 45034 / 0712 430535
B&B
CADAC Gas Equipment
Lorries B&B, Victoria Falls. Full english breakfast. Ensuite Rooms. Home cooked dinners. Your home away from home. Phone: +263 (0) 13 42139 or +263 (0) 712 406 584. Email: lorrie@mweb.co.zw. 10% discount on production of this advertisement.
CADAC gas equipment – Wide range, competitively priced. Our products include, skottel braai $100.00 , 3kg cylinder $57.99 , 5kg cylinder $63.00 , standard regulator $13.50 , Eazilite 100CP $40.00 , Eazilite 300CP $57.50 , 2-plate stove $73.00 , 500g gas cartridge threaded $8.00 , Grillo gas braai $75.00 , mantle 100CP $2.70 , mantle 300CP $3.20 , cooker top $19.00 , glass 100CP $7.90 , glass 300CP $9.50 , Adventure Eazi Kit $41.00. See our modern, well stocked wholesale warehouse opposite Marange Motors. Tradepower Wholesale Vic Falls - Telephone (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312
Mosi-Ua-Tunya B&B, six en-suite rooms, air conditioned, and additional family accommodation available. Located 603 Mahogany Road. Reservations call: +263 (0) 13 44336, email moslodge@yoafrica.com, cell +263 (0)772 462 837. Tokkie Lodge, your home from home whilst travelling. Contact +263 (0) 43306 or Manache +263 (0) 0712 207396. Email: reservations@tokkielodge.co.zw The Villa Victora. Self catering guest house. Five en suite rooms, home away from home environment. Phone + 263 13 44386, Cell + 263 712 700261, email : villaviczim@gmail.com for further information.
Catering Services Delicious Indian Cuisine. Seventh Heaven Foods (Pvt) Ltd. 523 Reynard Rd, Victoria Falls. Take-aways, catering for functions. Specialises in snacks and Indian dinners. Call Anju and Barry Nathoo on +263 (0) 13 40527/42348. Cell: +263 (0) 712 212 255/ +263 (0) 775 121 406. Email: khemhim@yoafrica.com
Convenience Store
Beauty Therapy
e
Rotary Club of Victoria Falls meets every Thursday at Ilala Lodge between 1:00pm and 2:00pm. For further information please contact our club president Victor Mupanguri on +263 (0) 773 608916, Josh Ncube on +263 (0) 712 207368 or Anne Taggart, our club secretary on +263 (0)772 254552. Victoria Falls Tourism Police Unit. A donar funded iniative between private and public sector in conjunction with the Zimbabwe Republic Police to ensure a safe environment for visitors and local residents within the Victoria Falls tourism area. Anyone wishing to assist in sponsoring one or more of the dedicated Tourism Police Officers please contact Kevin Fry +263 (0) 772 872646
The one and only convenience store in Victoia Falls. Open 7 days a week Monday to Saturday 7am to 11pm and Sundays from 7am till 9pm. We will cater for all your food needs during your stay in Vic Falls. Situated in the centre of town opposite the Rest Camp, Shop 6 Parkway Drive, Victoria Falls. Contact us on (013) 43429.
Cultural Activities
Hardware Hardware Zone, Victoria Falls for all your electrical, plumbing, painting and building requirements. Phone +263 (0) 13 42202, cell +263 (0)773 255 788, 426 Pioneer Road, Industrial Area
Elephant Camp. The Elephant Camp is a luxury and intimate lodge under canvas only 10 minutes from Victoria Falls and all it’s attractions and activities, yet secluded in it’s own private game reserve so as to allow close up encounters with wildlife. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge. Located in the Matetsi Safari Area with 14km of Zambezi river frontage Imbabala is reknowned for it’s game viewing and bird watching Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571,44426. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw. www.wildhorizons.co.za
Cooling Horizon - Provides cooling and refrigeration and air conditioning. Contact Becky 0773 537428 / 0772 341048 / 0712 593586. Email : coolinghorizon@yahoo.com
Repairs and Workshops Amherst Engineering T/A Zambezi Motors - for vehicle repairs and maintenance, situated behind Avis/ Total. Bruce: +263 712 336 017, Roy: +263 712 747 306, Shayle: +263 772 284 689. J and M Transport. For local and regional transport. Located 1369 Pioneer Road, Victoria Falls, Industrial Area. Tel: +263 (0) 13 42092, mobile John +263 (0) 712 612 315, Mike +263 (0) 712 606 977.
Restaurants Jin’s Chinese Restaurant, 571 Nyathi Rd, (APG Lodge). Contact +263 (0) 773663810 or +263 (0) 773874874 for bookings. The Victoria Falls Hotel : Stanley’s Terrace, cosmopolitan lunch The Victoria Falls Hotel: Livingstone Room, fine dining with a 7 course menu. The Victoria Falls Hotel: Jungle Junction, international buffet and African Spectacular show. For bookings, contact +263 (0) 44751/9, email : marketing@tvfh.africansun.co.zw.
Restcamps
TRADITIONAL LUNCHES Traditional authentic lunches and dinners in the heart of the Victoria Falls community. Call Tsitsi on +263 (0) 776 144 080, Flatter on +263 (0) 712 926 678. Email : muposiwa_tsitsi@yahoo.com
Fishing & Fisherman Fishermen flystreamers for sale, rods repaired. Call Tim +263 (0) 712 208 374
Food Agencies Victoria Foods – Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls is the official distributor for Victoria Foods in the Falls and surrounding area. For quality flour, rice, mealie meal, snacks, salt and sugar beans, please visit our modern warehouse located on Mile Road, opposite Marange Motors. Tel: (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Fork Lift Forklift to take a weight off your shoulders. Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls has a 3 tonne forklift for hire at an hourly rate. Please phone Neil on (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312. Please visit our modern wholesale warehouse, where service to you will be a privilege.
AIR
Y
D
Tyress Beauty & Health & Hair Salon. Manicures Pedicures Artificial Nails Facials Make-up Massages Waxing Tweezing Body Scrub
Once a month a number of Victoria Falls residents put together ‘goodie parcels’ with a few luxuries, mostly necessities for elderly people in the community that are struggling to make ends meet. Anyone wishing to contribute to this can email Cathrina Gover: gover@yoafrica.com and Mel Hudson: hudsons@yoafrica.com
Refridgeration
Hotels & Safari Lodges
Charity Events
Bakeries and Hotels - Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls are the Vic Falls distributors for Bakels Zimbabwe. For bulk cocoa powder, icing sugar, cake mix, almond paste, pettinice, cooking chocolate, sesame seeds, baking powder, greaseproof paper, glace cherries, tincol, bread premix, rollex or masterpuff please phone Neil Norman on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 to request our speciality bakery representative to call upon you to provide advice and suggestions on new products.
Artists & Galleries Stone Dynamics Gallery, The Victoria Falls Hotel. Home to Zimbabwe’s world renowned stone sculptures. For further information contact Stuart Danks, director, email: artafrica@bluewin.ch
Cellphones
e
Bakery Requisites
e
Beauty Therapy
Butchery
The Larry Norton Gallery. Original and reproduced fine art wildlife and landscape images available from this renowned artist. Visit this superb gallery in the historical Victoria Falls Hotel. You will find us in the Stables Lounge. Phone: +263 (0) 772 606 233 and +263 (0) 13 40076. Email: info@larrynorton.co.za and website: www.larrynorton.co.za
+263 775 297519
e The Kingdom at Victoria Falls. Enter the Legendary world of the Kingdom at Victoria Falls. A modern tribute to Africa’s ancient allure and the closest hotel to the actual falls, situated within the Victoria Falls national Park. The Whitewaters Restaurant an open air Restaurant is situated next to a small man-made lake with indigenous flora which adds to your experience to Zimbabwe and the ambience of the Kingdom at Victoria Falls .Open for Buffet Breakfast and Dinner. For bookings contact+2631344275-9. Email: reservations@kingdom.africansun.co.zw The Victoria Falls Hotel. ***** Situated on a world heritage site, the legendary Victoria Falls Hotel overlooks the magnificent falls. This gracious 1904 hotel is set in lush tropical gardens that recall the romance of days gone by. Contact Sales and Marketing Manager. Email: marketing@tvfh.africansun.co.zw. Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44751/9
Specialist Guide Discover Safaris Charles Brightman P O Box CT 544 Victoria Falls Zimbabwe, Tel/Fax + 263 13 45821, Cell + 263 712 209144 or + 263 917 747 426, Skype : charlesbrightman, Specialising in walking safaris, game drives, bird watching trips and tailor made safaris. Finalist in the Safari Awards Category. Best Personal Contibution to Wildlife Conservation, www.safariawards.com/ winners11
Laundry Spotless Laundry Services at Victoria Falls Restcamp, Lodge 17. Open daily. Contact +262 (0) 4050911 or +263 (0)772 347687
Locksmith Victoria Falls Locksmiths - Providers of 24hr key cutting and lock-out services. Tel : Levi on 013 44526, Cell 0778 132 220 or 0712 764 486 Email : locksmithsvf@gmail.com
Montagu Mixed Nuts & Fruits – Our range of superb nuts, dried fruits and snack mixes are always fresh and available at Tradepower Victoria Falls. 100g and 200g packs. Display stands and in-store advertising available for retail stockists. Call us on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 for our representative to visit you.
Paint Super quality PVA and Gloss at unbelievably low prices. Imported and always in our stock. We also have painting accessories, brushes, rollers, sand paper etc. Tradepower Wholesale (013) 44870/1 or 0774 022 312 / 0712 587 123. email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Limpopo Dairy Depot, Industrial Sites, Victoria Falls, opposite Marange Motors Tel: (013) 44870 / 1 Fax: (013) 44871, Mobile: 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 - Mr Neil Norman Email: orders@limpopodairy.co.zw / vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Services Herds Consultancy - Environmental Impact Assessment Consultancy - Victoria Falls Based Focus Areas - Tourist resorts and recreational development. Infrastructure, Water treatment and disposal, Forestry, Drainage and irrigation and Water Supply. Phone 0773 411110 or 0772 633317 or 0773 473404 or 0712 380518. Email - herdsconsultancy@yahoo.com
Ice always available at Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls - 7kg bag for $2-20. Tel: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312. Please visit our modern wholesale warehouse, where service to you will be a pleasure.
Trekkers Biltong – Outstanding quality chilli or plain flavoured beef snapsticks in 35g, 75g and 150g and distributed by Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls. Please contact Neil Norman on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 for us to visit your establishment with advice and details of wholesale pricing including stands and in-store advertising which are ava i l a b l e to b o o s t yo u r s a l e s.
AVAILABLE AT ALL LEADING SUPERMARKETS
Screen Printing Screenworks - For all your screen printing requirements, T/shirts, banners, posters etc. Call Zenzo + 263 775 728342 / + 263 712 614244. Email screenworksvicfalls@yahoo.com. 16 Sopers Arcade, Victoria Falls.
Ice Sales
Packaged Snacks
fresher for longer
Victoria Falls Restcamp. Situated in the town centre offers affordable, safe accommodation. Includes self catering lodges, chalets, dormitories, semi luxury tents and camping. Along with a tours & internet desk & In-da-Belly Restaurant. Tel: + 263 13 40509 - 11. Email: campsite@africaonline.co.zw
Pharmacies Victoria Falls Pharmacy shop No.3 Phumula Centre, close to Chicken Inn complex. Tel +263 (0) 13 44403, after hours cell: +263 (0) 712 4051269/+263 (0) 712 405 270.
Specialist Tour Operator Zambezi Safari & Travel Co. Registered in the UK and ATOL protected, have a Professional Guide and Safari consultant based Victoria Falls, we cover Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. We have 28 years of on hand experience on the ground here. Contact Chris Worden, professional guide/director. www.zambezi.com. www.bushcamps.com. www. luangwa.net. Email: chris@zambezi.com. Tel: 44 (0) 1548 830059 (UK head office) +263 (0) 13 44427 (Victoria Falls office). Cell: +263 (0) 774 109581. Skype: zambezi_chris. ATOL protected: licence number 10135. Winner Z.A.A Tourism Award 2011
Swimming Pool Products Tradepower Victoria Falls have a wide range of hoses, leaf scoops and bruches. We are the agents for Blu52 chemicals and Eezi Pool acid, test kits, chlorine floaters and chlorine. Contact Neil Norman: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712587123/0774022312
Thatching Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell: +263 (0) 777 560 856 or landline +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: derekdianawilk@mango.zw or wilkinson.diana@ yahoo.com or contact local agent, John Dewdney +263 (0) 13 44645 or +263 (0)775901534
Wholesale Liquor Tradepower Victoria Falls are the agents and distributors for a wide range of liquor brands. Swaartland Wines are our speciality, including all famous liquor labels. Also a full range of canned soft drinks and mixers always available at genuine wholesale prices. Contact Neil on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312.
Wholesale Poultry Chicken – Zimbabwean bred FAIRHILL chickens are outstanding in quality and value. Whole birds, breasts, thighs, drumsticks, wings or in mixed portions. Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls. Contact Neil on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312. Our modern freezing facilities ensure absolute freshness always.
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Profile
Dominic Benhura
Art & Craft
Local artist takes top prize
By ZT Correspondent
Victoria Falls artist Sharon Parry won the first prize in her category for her three-dimensional works in a contest and exhibition sponsored by the European Union Delegation to Zimbabwe.
Life size elephant made from cow bones Inset: Detail of the trunk
innovation within contemporary Zimbabwean Art, he is an extraordinary and highly acclaimed Artist. Born 1968 in Murehwa, “ Elephant” (loxodonta Africana) is a piece that Dominic worked on for almost a year. He single picked the cow bones that he then cut and joined together with steel rods and glue and salt. Pinias and Pineal with Dominic Benhura’s sculpture
PHOTO: BAYNHAM GOREDEMA
New conceptions, larger and harder stones and the use of different materials like bones are not considered by Dominic as a burden or imposition but an exciting challenge consolidating his position at the cutting edge of
PHOTO: PRIME ART GALLERY
P
rime Art Gallery is a project that looks to entice Art lovers the world over to travel to the magnificent destination of Victoria Falls in search of the finest African Art available on the continent. Working with one of the best, highly acclaimed and internationally celebrated Artist Dominic Benhura, the Gallery is set to woo the most refined Art lovers and collectors. Names like Benhura are commonplace to the most stringent collectors.
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This took a year to completion and now stands complete and is a life-size piece. The “Snake” is made out of stone called Cobalt and has been fixated with bones which give color of the particular type of snake. Benhura is very famous with his snakes, birds, and bulls and off course his joyous human figurines full of expression, and balance and togetherness also make his signature pieces. To this effect, his work has been exhibited throughout the world in museums, private collections throughout the world. He has also done work for the Nelson Mandela Foundation in Johannesburg, Steven Lewis Foundation Canada, FMO Development Bank in The Hague, African Wildlife Foundation Headquarters in Nairobi, Kenya to name but a few.
PHOTO: Heather Steyn
Sharon Parry
ZT correspondent ‘Freedom Revisited,’ an art competition and exhibition at Gallery Delta, Harare, sponsored by the European Union Delegation to Zimbabwe, attracted entries from all over Zimbabwe. Victoria Falls resident Sharon Parry won the first prize in her category for her three-dimensional works named ‘Sheilah.’The contest attracted 87 artists and produced 157 art works, 82 of which were selected for exhibition. The head of the E.U. Delegation praised local artists for their work and participation in the exhibition.“We wanted to challenge artists to go beyond their comfort zone to express their understanding of freedom, and the results are remarkable,”said Dell’Ariccia, before handing out prizes to the winners in various categories.
Dominic Benhura’s work can also be viewed on line.
Sharon’s interest in papier mache started some twenty years ago when she started making bowls with a friend. Seven years ago she started making her sculptures, and to date all have found homes, while she continues to work creatively on others.
Visit www.primeart-gallery.com
Website: www.delzwe.ec.eruopa.eu
HUMAN Rights
Women’s property rights – spreading the word
and often takes precedence over formal law. Tradition dictates that land and property is always allocated to men. Women who have lost their husbands and girls who have lost their parents often find themselves with no property or no home, which in turn increases their poverty and vulnerability to exploitation, and makes it impossible for them to look after themselves and their families without resorting to risky “coping strategies.”
By ZT Correspondent
N
tengwe for Community Development is taking a bold approach to inform women and community leaders about the property and inheritance rights of women in Zimbabwe.
Yet despite these patterns, women own only an estimated 1-2 percent of all titled land worldwide and are frequently denied the right to inherit property. In Zimbabwe there are
PHOTO: BAYNHAM GOREDEMA
In addition to producing much of the world’s food, women traditionally hold primary responsibility for gathering the water and fuel used daily by their families. Women make up an increasing proportion of the world’s formal labour force, and heads of households. numerous cultural and social factors that influence women’s socio-economic status. Zimbabwe’s lawmakers have amended the legal framework in order to recognise the rights of women to own
and inherit property. The legal framework, however, is poorly implemented, especially where knowledge of legislation is scant. In remote areas the influence of customary law is strong
Ntengwe for Community Development commenced a project in Hwange district and the town of Victoria Falls in June 2011 to train traditional leaders and local women so that property rights violations are acted upon and resolved. At the grassroots level, the project reaches women through promoting succession planning and will writing, and building the knowledge and skills of leaders in the c o m m u n i t y. S i n c e t h e
inception of the project an active network of voluntary community-based ‘paralegals’ and watchdog groups have taken steps to curb property and inheritance grabbing. Several women in Victoria Falls have begun the process of
reclaiming the property they have lost to their in-laws. These leaders have become agents of dissemination, spreading the message. Ntengwe believes that the only way to achieve long-term change is to give people the means to find solutions for themselves.
www.primeart-gallery.com
Snake, DOMINIC BENHURA
Our Gallery is situated at the Elephant’s Walk Shopping Village. We also have a display of some of the artwork at the Victoria Falls Airport’s departure lounge, and at the Historical Chogm Park in Victoria Falls where some of our larger works have been featured. 273 Adam Stander Drive, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Tel +263-772 239 805 Fax +263-13-42783 Email- director@primeart-gallery.com Email- primeart@mweb.co.zw
Bulawayo on your way to the Zambezi BOOK EXCERPT
FACT FILE
Beyond The Wild Wood
Honey Badger
By Bookey and Richard Peek
“For all its wild beauty, the Matobo Hills is a friendly place. Of course, there’s always a chance one might step on a puff adder or meet a wounded leopard, but these are unlikely occurrences, and the joy in my serendipitous wandering was well worth any minor risk. In any case, if I were accompanied by someone like Poombi the warthog or Nandi the labrador, or indeed any other reasonable type of animal, they’d give me advance warning of any danger.
(Mellivora capensis)
Badger meets porcupine
‘For all there’s its wil d a wo always beauty, the und in my ed leo the chance Matobo Hill se ren pard, but one And mig s is a dip the the in the n along ito us wa se are ht step friendly place. cam on a He is world: one e a hon nd eri ng unlikely occurr puff adder Of course wa street totally unr to whom ey badger s we , ences, or ll a gre gang, the easonable Trouble , touted as wo rth an and the meet and at gri . He Mafia y mi the mo joy Dan n on hat st fea no r ris In thi his fac Boss, the es pea ger are ce and the ver rless ani k. exe e. Tro lau nchs thi rd ma y qui uble? cutioner boo waitin et — he’ stuff of life l Bring a nd es himsel k in the s de ad g it on. a . Once ly sc f into the Stone Hil I’m reaat the sca one-man aga ffold world ls ser dy.’ to pyg in, the or pio ns place. Of course, wit ies friendly a h of dan w it h my can storie , the Matobo Hills is or meet ger gerousBad beauty, nibals s ran‘For on a puff adder itsfawild allh is gromight But lau mi one ws upstep sna kes and ge widel es, and the joy thethere’s y, fro lythei n chance when ghter and and occurrenc unlikely n x these , are tor rid always ang ry m wi abut minor risk. tea rs rom leopard, tch iou s atng per ilou a small bee well worth any are a wounded ancingitouscra wanderi tenwas s wo badger da nc s as the most fearless animal serendip of the ft andbadger, touted in my rld. leaves nev e. er far Richar honey wi lderne very stuff of life. along hom apa rtcame a red-backe and d and Danger are the And ethen live Trouble d ss, and whom in to — he’s a one-man Boo one in ma kes Zim bab He hates toa peace in the world: d. and quiet Bookey a wi ldli key Pee scaffold with able.we, his wa k are He is totally unreason er waiting at the ’s wo fe san not execution the the y lea ctu Boss, bot int rds Mafia len st on. I’m ready.’ ary o his Bring h pro gang, the and am street anothe s are ow n, it fes Trouble? st thegrinsioon r irr wonderfuRichard’s ong nalhis face. grows up and a great esisti Matob safari the Stone Hills series, Badger ble rea lly evocat record angry bees o Hil in gu ide book d. ls of the world iveIn, thisof third s wh of dangerous snakes,at te nda nce. he ma kin allhimself into Zim o a n x iou s launches g Bey sees fros wbab h i s f a m i ly i n i t h we and wilderness, . ond pion m beh one from witchcra ft a nd dead ly scor ‘...a of the the range widely, ed toad. ind storiesWi bes t-lo cha rac g of the red-back ld Once again, the ‘A ma ter torrid od romancin ved and theWo in the who wi come rve llou s not least to pygmy cannibals in Zimbabwe, An ima ll becom apart far compel wi th liv book. It own, e and tears are never l Kin is not ing his way into his ling laughter But gdo m’ home and makes only ins igh wi th Afr LEEbadger leaves about when a small ica n t int DUR o life wi the sm world. REL L in Zim ldli fe, but iles perilous safari guides who babwe import and tea e. both professional are Zimbabw Peek of Hills rs tha ant todRichard and ay.’ ly, Bookey t y amongst the Matobo sees from behind it is sanctuar - a wildlife he als PEN GUI ETH live in GAR record of all a PAT ando Richard’s Non -Fic N the Wild Wood making Beyond I S B Bookey’s words TER SON tion lly evocative, N 978 lens430are wonderfu the -0-1 2-561- le read. another irresistib 0
PHOTOS:RICHARD PEEK
Location: The greater part of sub-Saharan Africa, through the Middle East to southern Russia and eastwards as far as India and Nepal. Habitat: Wide tolerance, from semi-desert to rainforest Behaviour: Honey badgers are mostly solitary. The young will stay with their mother until they are approximately 14 months old. They may congregate in areas where food is in abundance. Their diet consists of mostly small mammals, birds and reptiles and of course honey and bee larvae. Honey Badgers are legendary for their fearlessness, and their willingness, if threatened, to take on animals far larger than themselves. Conservation Status: Although unprotected on the International Red Data list, they are threatened in South Africa and Morocco, and Endangered in Saudi Arabia. Honey Badgers are protected in India. Threats: Persecuted by beekeepers, poultry and sheep farmers, often using gin traps. Indirectly persecuted by poison and traps set for jackals and caracals, again by farmers. Trade for traditional medicine and bushmeat. For all the above and more, visit Colleen and Keith Begg’s website: www.honeybadger.com, which aims to bring you the latest information on honey badgers and to encourage people to appreciate and conserve this fascinating creature.
And then along came a honey badger, touted as the most fearless animal in the world: one to whom Trouble and Danger are the very stuff of life. He is totally unreasonable. He hates peace and quiet – he’s a one-man street gang, the Mafia Boss, the executioner waiting at the scaffold with a great grin on his face. Trouble? Bring it on. I’m ready. It wasn’t always like that. Badger’s mother was killed by a hunter in Zimbabwe’s south-east lowveld as she was carrying him through the bush one night. The safari operator kept him at home for a few weeks before sending him down to us in a small cardboard box. He was so thin and weak that he could barely stand. Fearless? As an infant Badge fled from bees, and he was terrified of the dragonflies that zipped over his head at the river. But not for long.
9 7 80
143
Available Now From all leading bookshops
who will become DURRELL ‘...a character Kingdom’ - LEE d in the Animal 0 2 one 5 6 1of the best-love that 0 smiles and tears only about the it is also a book. It is not but importantly, ‘A marvellou s N life with African wildlife, today.’ - GARETH PATTERSO ‘Discov history, share e come with living defini fascinating natural a country into life in Zimbabw ng mo er some insight g ‘Discover some families and feel compellin fascin me nts with friends and ati ng 561-0 wi th defining moments transformation. nat frie I S B N 978-0-14302- An in the throes of enc han in the thr nds and ura l his book.’ - LEE DURRELL and bittersweet oes ting fam ilie tor y, sha An enchanting of and re life bit ter tra nsf orm s and sweet ation. fee l a cou book.’ PENGUIN ntr y 025610 - LEE 9 780143 Non-Fiction DUR REL L
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Also available online from Amazon and Kalahari, and published by Penguin (SA). Will be released in the UK in early September this year, published by Max Press (and will have a different cover). “Discover some fascinating natural history, share lifedefining moments with friends and families, and feel a country in the throes of transformation. An enchanting and bittersweet book, telling the story of a character who will become one of the best-loved in the animal kingdom.” - LEE DURRELL - Jersey Wildlife Preservation Trust ‘Males have quite exceptionally large testes in proportion to their size,’ reports Jonathan Kingdon. Or
to put it more bluntly, Badgers have Balls and gallons of testosterone, as their enemies, including some ill-advised lions and leopards, have discovered to their cost. By the time he was a year old, our cub was actively looking for, and invariably finding, trouble or (as he preferred to call it), good clean fun. The South African defence forces call one of their armoured troop carriers (or is it a mine-sweeper?) the ‘ratel’, the Afrikaans name for the honey badger. This refers to the rattling roar worthy of a lion, that they produce if suitably aroused.”
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BIRDING
Zambia is a birding delight
Zambia teems with great birds and great birding spots, but it helps to have a great guide take you there.
Black Cheeked Lovebird
PHOTOS: RORY MACDOUGALL
By Nicky DuncanAnderson
Many southern African bird field guides and distribution lists end abruptly at the Zambezi River. The combination of Zambia’s different habitats, soils and rainfall attracts different species, but it wasn’t until publication of reliable data in the form of The Zambian Bird Atlas, The Birds of Zambia (Dowsettet et al. 2008) and The Important Bird Areas (Leonard 2005) that this began to change. Zambia’s only true endemic bird is the Zambian (previously Chaplin’s) Barbet. Other Zambian specialties include the Shoebill Stork, Black-Cheeked Lovebird, Slaty Egret and Wattled Crane. With such varied pockets of habitat across Zambia it is no wonder that Rory cannot pick a favourite spot. “Lochinvar at times is unbelievable, teeming with lechwe and birdlife. As you slosh through the shallows, the secret is to find the pools on the floodplain that the birds are using, which are quite often not in the park at all.” “The Nsefu sector of South Luangwa National Park is another magical spot, especially when Carmine Bee-eaters are nesting.
V
ultures circling in the sky are nature’s first alert to the location of a carcass. With poaching on the rise again this might reveal the presence of poachers; a new trend among these vile rogues is to poison their unwanted spoils, thus ensuring nature’s first warning is hushed. Sudden drops in vulture sightings are now a strong indication of poaching activity. Rory McDougall, an artist extraordinaire and an exceptional professional guide, is leading the first vulture count of its kind in the region. The birds of Zambia represent a world Rory has loved since childhood and it is hard to not get swept away with his infectious enthusiasm and zest for nature’s beautiful outdoor classroom. As I trundled off with Rory for an afternoon of birding, he regaled me with stories of favourite bird spots, special species and the reason Zambia’s beautiful birds have remained a largely untapped niche.
Whitebacked Vultures
Nothing beats the ambience of the hot springs at sunset, with the honking of the Crowned Cranes bidding you goodnight.” Rory also loves a spot in North Western Zambia, known as Mwinilunga which forms part of the Congo forest zone, and as such is home to a host of species occurring nowhere else in Zambia. This is also the source of the mighty Zambezi. One of the greatest known migrations of mammals anywhere on the planet occurs in Zambia. This remarkable event was a secret until the BBC shared it with the world in an incredible documentary. Ten million straw-coloured fruit bats flock to Kasanka National Park where for six weeks they gorge themselves on fruit. When the bats take to the skies en masse at sunset and then return at sunrise, the sight is something to behold. While the bats have made Kasanka famous, there are many other gems waiting to be discovered in this small park including the Pel’s Fishing Owl, African Finfoot and Half-collared Kingfisher.
www.zamagsafaris.com +260 977 618 194 info@zamagsafaris.com
PHOTOS: RORY MACDOUGALL
Another vast area with unparalleled richness of aquatic birdlife is the Bangweulu Swamp which aptly means ‘where water meets the sky.’ This wetland paradise is home to the bizarre Shoebill, large flocks of Wattled Cranes and huge herds of endemic black lechwe. Other top twitching spots include Shiwa Ng’andu with its recently restored manor house, large water body and exotic vegetation. Mutinondo Wilderness is another destination where 10,000
PHOTOS: RORY MACDOUGALL
Wattled Crane
hectares of private miombo woodland, massive granite whalebacks and crystal clear streams provide home to a host of special species. The enormous Busanga Plain in Kafue National Park is also prime spot for both grassland and miombo specials, including the stunning Rosybreasted Longclaw. Rory’s face lights up as he tells me about a new
Crowned Eagle nest he discovered in Kafue earlier this year. He mentions that he always keeps an eye out for the elusive Tinkerbird that was last seen in the 1950s. If anyone finds it, it will be this amazing birdman. Explore Zambia’s beautiful birds with Rory McDougall (BSC) Email: bedrockafrica @gmail.com
in Zambia (Arcades Shopping Centre) was established because the owner wanted a store that was trendy, moved with the times and offered fantastic food. Lusaka may be best known as the cosmopolitan capital of Zambia but Rhapsody’s Lusaka is definitely known for the traditional Rhapsody’s décor. Rhapsody’s use of muted rusts, orange and creams together with solid timber and gold graphics results in an interior that is elegant, vibrant and stylish. A big hit in Lusaka has got to be Rhapsody’s Chicken Espetada. Deboned chicken thighs skewered with spicy jalapenos and a sweet-chilli basting sauce. Grilled until golden brown and topped with garlic butter. More enticing than ever, Rhapsody’s sumptuous Chicken Espetada is glamorous, subtle, naughty and nice!
Opening Hours Mon - Fri 12:00 - 22:00 Sunday 12:00 - 17:00 26 Chaholi Rd Rhodes Park Lusaka, Zambia
The most tempting of all – enjoy the allure of playfulness without any inhibitions… Swing past and enjoy the Flavour Of Life Experience.
Tel: 0026 0211 253639 0026 0977 856040 E-mail: gerritz@iconnect.zm www.gerritz-restaurant.com
we take you places we know and trust
CONSERVATION
Dramatic elephant rescue Abraham Banda photographed the unfolding drama, whilst staff from South Luangwa Conservation Society, ZAWA and Norman Car Safaris averted a tragedy
The family herd desperately trying to help the screaming Mum and baby escape but they were completely stuck in the deep, rapidly drying mud with no chance of getting out
The brave and skilled SLCS team manages to slip a rope under the baby, narrowly avoiding mums thrashing trunk - and starts to haul her out ..... ‘
One more try - the team pull her further away from mum this time. They unwrap the ropes and help her to her feet
This time - thanks to a young herd cousin calling her to safety
Nearly there - the whole team is hauling as hard as they can..... But the baby is terribly frightened and won’t leave mum’s side
..... she makes a dash for it as the rest of the herd scream for her to come to them
By Christina Carr
M
ost conser vationists believe that man should not meddle with the natural order and that we should allow nature to run her course however cruel or grim it seems to be. We, at Norman Carr Safaris agree on the whole, unless a wildlife problem has been created by man (for instance in the case of snaring or being trapped in a fence, in which case it’s justifiable to intervene) then nature should be left to her own devices. She has a plan.
With us all shouting encouragment and just willing her to keep going “come on Mama” she makes it! Weak and wobbly she drags herself out
She runs to find her baby and the rest of her waiting herd! The happiest possible ending!
However - every rule has an exception and the dreadful plight of a baby elephant
Wildlife Camp zambia
An affordable front row seat to South Luangwa Tel: +260 216 246026 info@wildlifezambia.com | www.wildlifecamp-zambia.com
Again - she’s out and we think we’re almost there...... But despite my frantic waving and shouting - she won’t leave her mum
Dehydrated and exhausted - we’ve been pouring water over her to try to protect her from the scorching midday sun. SLCS staff carefully slip a rope under her and then tractor out of what would have been a muddy grave
trapped in the mud of the Kapani Lodge Lagoon and her mother, who had also got stuck trying to save her had us all in a frenzy of activity. We simply could not stand by and watch them struggle and slowly die. South Luangwa Conservation Society together with our neighbours - ZAWA the wildlife authority - agreed with us and the three camps joined forces to try and save the mum and baby. Abraham Banda got these great photos of the unfolding drama...... This is all in a day’s work for the amazing Rachel McRobb and her outstanding team at The South Luangwa Conservation Society. You will be amazed at what this relatively small group can achieve – their dedication and commitment to wildlife is inspiring. Together with our local wildlife authority – the South Luangwa Area Management Unit of the Zambia Wildlife Authority, they are extremely effective at antipoaching activities including anti-snaring and patrolling in vulnerable areas of the National Park. Rachel and her team are also skilled at darting snared animals, removing the snares and treating the horrific wounds they cause.
Their awareness raising activities and work with other local conservation groups are incredibly effective. Of course – this all takes money so please consider becoming a regular supporter. It was extremely heartening for us all to see how many local people joined in the efforts to free these two elephants – the cheers of joy, first when the baby ran to his cousin and then when Mum was finally released from the jaws of the sticky, cloying mud, were wonderful! Everyone seemed to identify with the mum’s plight - we all saw the incredible emotional bond between the worried herd members and mum and baby. Thank you to the teams from South Luangwa Conservation Society, Zambia Wildlife Authority (ZAWA) and Norman Carr Safaris who bravely fought to make this a happy ending! Photos by Abraham Banda www.normancarrsafaris.com www.slczzambia.org
Plant Encounters
The medicinal Devil’s Claw
D
evil’s claw is a medicinal plant found in south-west Zambia, with tuberous roots that are exported to treat arthritis in Europe. There are concerns about the sustainability of current harvesting practices. Hell must be full of plants, for there are many that belong to the devil: from devil’s bit to devil’s cotton, his guts, his paintbrush, his thorns…and his claws! Lying in wait on the surface of deep Kalahari sands are spiny, wooden capsules, armed and dangerous enough to grab on to cloven feet and catch a free ride.
Devil’s claw fruit
These are the fruits of two species of Harpagophytum, a Greek name that can be
translated to “grapple-hook plant”, but more commonly known as devil’s claw. The genus belongs to the Pedaliaceae family, of which foxglove (Digitalis) and sesame (Sesamum) are also members. Local names include: Babamu or Damatwa in Toka-Leya and Tonga; Seto, in Silozi; and Sengaparile in Setswana.
Secondary tubers
Photo: H. Pickering
By Evelyn Roe
H. zeyheri, in early rains
The ground-creepers that produce these resilient fruits are invisible for much of the year, their tuberous roots sustaining them through the dry season and periods of drought. The creeping stems emerge, after the first rains, from a primary tuber known as the “mother tuber”, which can have a tap root up to 2 metres deep. Fleshy roots radiate out out of the mother tuber and form secondary tubers along their length.
Not only do the tubers provide sustenance for the plants themselves, they also contain medicinal compounds that are anti-inflammatory and analgesic, and have been pharmacologically proven as a treatment for arthritis, among other ailments. Because of their effectiveness, hundreds of tonnes of sliced and dried tubers are exported annually, mostly from Namibia, to alleviate the aches and pains of the aging population in Europe.
techniques. Most of the demand has been for Harpagophytum procumbens, which is found across southern Africa, but now attention is shifting to H. zeyheri, which is the species found in southwest Zambia and northern Namibia.
The trade in devil’s claw in Namibia is controlled by legislation, with permits being required for harvesting, trading and exporting the tubers. In Zambia, however, no such protection is given. The rising demand in Europe, coupled with the decline in the devil’s claw population in Namibia, has pushed the traders across the border into Sesheke District. Here, they hire trucks to collect sacks of tubers, month after month, from the local harvesters, who are digging up even the mother tubers.
Freshly-harvested tubers
Dish full of dried tubers
Sun-drying sliced tubers
There is an urgent need to address this issue, before it’s too late. As one 83-year-old community leader in Sesheke District related: My grandchildren laugh in disbelief when I tell them that, when I was a boy, I watched zebra and buffalo roaming freely near our village. It’s too late for the animals, but we must now protect the plants so that they are more than just a tale from long ago.
Sliced, dried tuber
This trade has been going on for at least 40 years, and there are now serious concerns about over-exploitation and detrimental harvesting
New growth
Deep hole left by harvester
Visit www.kalahariplants.webs.com
Close up of dried tubers
Close up of flowers
Priceless memories made to the tune of rolling thunder. www.suninternational.com
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
BIRDING
Marico sunbird - cinnyris mariquensis
By Bob Stjernstedt
unrelated. However, they do also feed on insects which form their main source of sustenance.
T
his is very much a Zambezi bird. It is the commonest Sunbird in the Zambezi Valley, not found very much to the north, until you get to the Tanzanian border right up in the north, where it reappears. It does not occur in Lusaka, for example. In other words for some reason it does not like miombo, which is the dominant sort of vegetation covering most of the country. The interesting thing is that there are a number of birds with this type of distribution, a reflection of the dry thornbush vegetation found south of the Zambezi in Botswana and Namibia, but starting again in the East African rift valley system, leaving the Central African moist miombo dominated belt of savannah woodlands of Zambia in between. Prime examples are the Kori Bustard and the Ostrich. Kori Bustards are common as soon as you cross the Zambezi into Botswana (in fact it has on a few occasions been observed crossing over). Ostriches cannot of course cross the river but they are to be found not far south, and again in Tanzania close to the border.
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Marico sunbird
The White–crowned Shrike is another such bird although the ones north of the border differ slightly and are usually treated as a different species Among mammals, the Bat-eared Fox, the Dik-dik, and the Black-backed Jackal are animals with this type of distribution, and they are unrecorded in Zambia. The Giraffe is an obvious case, but most interesting because there is an isolated endemic population, Thornicroft’s Giraffe, in the Luangwa Valley. This has been separated from those to the north, Masai Giraffe, and those to the south, Southern Giraffe, for long enough for them to have evolved into a distinct race. So, back to the Sunbirds. Most Sunbirds have males which have patches of bright, often shiny metallic, colours ; yellow, red, and blue with varying admixtures of green and violet iridescence. The females and immatures are usually dull greenish and indistinguishable. They all have long decurved beaks, used for sucking nectar from flowers. They are thus parallel to the humming birds of the New World, which are PHDS 24490/11
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They are not fussy about the flowers they choose, yet they are very selective about the general habitat. For instance at Katombora there are Marico Sunbirds in the Acacia trees by the river, but in the Teak forest up the hill they are replaced by Purple banded Sunbirds, which are very similar, green birds with a patch of colour on the breast, purple in the Purple Banded, red in the Marico. Voice is not very helpful for sunbirds – in this case they both have the same squeaky chittery calls.
HISTORY
Zambia marks 47th birthday By Frederick Mwendapole
With much pomp and ceremony, Zambia’s 47th year of Independence was celebrated in Livingstone, where crowds and officials gathered at the Civic Centre on the eve of Independence Day to raise the Zambian flag, signifying the official launch of the festivities. The Independence Torch was held high by young runners from the Presbyterian Church in red uniforms, who carried the torch from the weigh bridge for 10 kms through town to the Civic Centre, to be met by dignitaries and cheers from the crowds. The memory of 24 October 1964 was honoured and celebrated in similar style throughout the country.
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T
he Kavango Zambezi TFCA is breaking down the old barriers. Now it is not just the elephants that are moving across the river.
In June this year Chief Sekute of the Kazungula District travelled to Victoria Falls to meet with Chief Mvutu. Chief Sekute was accompanied by his Ngambela. Traditional rituals and greetings were observed.
In November Chief Mvutu received an invitation to visit Chief Sekute at his Chundu kuta. He was accompanied by elders from his community. The two chiefs discussed the upcoming Lwiindi ceremony to be hosted at the Chundi kuta. The Lwiindi ceremony is an annual customary ritual held just before the start of the rains. Chief Mvutu will soon visit the new Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy, being set up by communities on both sides of the Kasaya
River in Zambia. The new conservancy will be an innovative model of conservation management and will require careful design of a land use plan that will incorporate normal livestock management with wildlife management and tourism development. The future will see increased communication between traditional leaders of the five countries of the Kaza TFCA.
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Art & Crafts
Unfolding the journey of life in symbols Zambian painter Lawrence Yombwe on the symbols and meanings of his widely exhibited works
In 1997 he became secretary of the South Central Art Teachers Association and chaired the Display and Exhibitions Commitee in Gaborone Botswana. He also served as judge and resource person of the annual Botswana National Art Fair competition and initiated the formation of a Museum for Contemporary Art in Schools.
By Lawrence Yombwe “Art is a means of expression and in my art the message has always been the same, to promote peace, love, honesty, unity, hard work, to mention but a few motifs. I try and highlight traditional ideas, images and objects that have formed patterns in our society when we are either mourning or celebrating and are unique; they are that which no one can find anywhere else and which make us who we really are, different and special. “In my landscapes, the roads or footpaths represent our existence, where we are going and where we are coming from. Although these footpaths remind me of the ones I used to take when I was a boy with my father on hunting trips, they speak of a long journey or life with many bends that seem like they end in the distance, but unfold as you approach them. “In some of my works I use symbols with hidden
He traveled and studied Arts Administration in the USA and established the Documentation Centre at the Visual Arts Council Headquarters in Lusaka. He is the initiator of Christian Art Workshops in Zambia.
“Painting is like a good song, whether someone understands the words or not, it is always enjoyed,” says Lawrence Yombwe. Born 55 years ago in Kalulushi, Yombwe is one of Zambia’s most prolific and accomplished painters. He has held 14 solo exhibitions locally and abroad and has participated in many regional workshops and exhibitions.
meanings which I have borrowed from the mbusa initiation ceremony practiced by the Bemba tribe of Northern Province of Zambia. The aim of mbusa are to help mould young men and women into responsible citizens. In the Bemba culture, it is, and has been for generations, a very simple and effective way of communication using design, music, dance and drama. “Some of these symbols look like human figures in my work when I combine them creatively to represent life. The shapes of the figures’ heads are inspired by African clay pots and vases.The shapes of the arms are like cattle horns which is a symbol of wealth.To be wealthy, I believe, depends on how one uses his or her hands; hence my representation of horns as human arms.
Yombwe works mostly on sackcloth or hessian. “It is both economic and has identity. The fabric is familiar to every Zambian. I start by sketching the main idea and then patch in the white areas that form the background. Then I put the work flat facing downwards and work from behind using thin paint – I am not always sure of the final result. Lots of compromises are made after the work is raised from ground. Sometimes unintended marks are left as part of the work. In real life many unplanned things crop up before the real issues are tackled.” Yombwe started his career as a graphic artist for Ndola Catholic Diocese and Mission Press, then taught art at Matero Boys. He was the first vice chairman of Zambia National Visual Arts Council.
He is currently working as a professional artist and runs Wayiwayi Art Studio and Gallery with his artist wife Agnes Buya. They have two children Yande and Kondwani.
Selected
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RECREATION
Fun on the water and off
conservation
Future rosy for baby Maramba A celebrity at an early age, we introduce Maramba to her new fans.
The annual Livingstone Regatta brings much of the riverside town together to party. By Chali Mulenga
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ome people strolled, some drove and others cycled, the mode of transport mattered not for they all used the one road that led to Zambezi Boat Club on the banks of the Zambezi River, seven kilometres from the gushing waters of ‘the smoke that thunders.’ It was the Livingstone Regatta 2011, a race that attracted 30 teams from 30 different companies around Livingstone this year. Standing at the parking lot, with no space to squeeze even the smallest car, I could hear the blasting music and saw excited spectators jumping over the wall. With a new government in power, the famous song ‘Don’t kubeba’ was rocking the atmosphere.
Maramba being taken down from a truck
SAFPAR team
One man complained of the scorching heat, another of too many teenage girls in revealing summer wear, but yet just across from the arena where all the hullabaloo was taking place, men and women in life jackets were busy
battling with the rapids of the mighty Zambezi river. When all was said and done, Madison Insurance Company was able to prove to the judges that they were the best this year. Madison reaped the floating trophy and drove home with a seven million Kwacha cash prize (approx US$1400.00). Congratulating the victors, Deputy Minister of Labour, Sports, Youth and Gender, Rayford Mbulu, declared the regatta to be part of the tourism and sporting calendar. “This regatta is in line with national sports policy, because sports give opportunities to people and create job opportunities,” he said.
Team Auto World emerged second, Pachilu came third and Wapoka was fourth. “This competition can help the country in promoting tourism as visitors can also see our wild life,” said Zambezi Boat Club Trustee Abraham Sashi. “I am impressed that the competition has attracted more people than anticipated.” Indeed, there was a flock of spectators, as teenagers crowded the arena and danced the night out. Those who drove to the event tested their patience, heading home in an unending queue of cars, while those on foot stood by the road waiting for good Samaritans to pick them up.
Maramba being bottle fed
By ZT Correspondent
T
he banks of the Maramba River provides a popular drinking place for a herd of elephant which wanders through the grounds of Maramba River Lodge, much to the delight of the residents. However, a very small
individual which arrived with the herd was abandoned and its future looked bleak. A rescue plan was put into action and baby Maramba was enclosed in a fenced garden for two nights, while he enjoyed rehydration liquids and food donated by a local farmer. Maramba’s big day arrived at the end of October when Zambian Wildlife Authority scouts and lodge staff coaxed him into a purpose-built crate for the long journey to Lusaka and then on to the Elephant Orphanage in Kafue. Little Maramba arrived safely, is doing well and enjoying life to the full with two other orphaned elephants. Photos by Maramba River Lodge
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OBITUARY
A tribute to Jean Evans
The tragic death of a leading Livingstone personality brings tribute from the community
Jean was also the British Government’s representative in Livingstone. Jean’s home at Chundu Farm was always ‘open house’ and her warm hospitality was well known; many have attended numerous happy functions there over the years. By ZT correspondent
I
t was with shock and deep sadness that the Livingstone community heard of the tragic death of Jean Evans in a vehicle accident on the Botswana road which runs through her farm Chundu. Jean arrived in Zambia as a young woman in the middle sixties and initially worked in one of the commercial banks in Livingstone. In 1970 she married Murray Evans, a prominent dairy and crop farmer on the banks of the Zambezi River. Melanie and Craig were born in
Livingstone but Jean soon returned to work to help the family finances in those tough economic times in Zambia. Over the years Jean established her reputation as an astute business woman and after some time started a clearing agency with her daughter, which Melanie runs to this day. Murray passed away in 2006 and Jean successfully continued running the farm by herself. Jean was proud of her north of England heritage and was always happy to explain her Geordie upbringing to anyone who would listen.
Her friends knew that Jean had a kind and generous spirit, but not many knew that she supported three orphanages and two old age homes in Livingstone, both with financial help and produce from the farm. Several Livingstone residents who had medical problems requiring surgery have also benefited from her generosity. Jean’s proudest achievement was her family and grandchildren and it is to them that we offer our sincerest sympathy and condolences. Livingstone will be a poorer place without her.
Health
10 reasons to detox Ten Reasons
1 Eliminate waste and toxins from the body.
2 Eliminate parasites from the body. 3 Enhance the body’s natural immune system. 4 Prevent chronic disease. 5 Improve quality of life by allowing us to feel 100% energized and focused. 6 Promote weight loss. 7 Restore balance to body and mind. 8 Slow premature ageing. 9 Fasting, yoga and meditation can stir up a lot of emotions that may have become suppressed over time, leaving you feeling calmer and with a greater sense of clarity and purpose. 10 It is fun! Tranquil times at Prana
By Beverley Welch A group of Livingstone residents have a whole new enhanced sense of wellness after taking a ‘Detox’ weekend hosted by Bev from Prana Zambia in Livingstone and Kim from Umoyo in Lusaka. Using detox, yoga and meditation techniques, each person left with a renewed feeling of vitality and an understanding of these therapies. “I could write a whole newspaper on the myriad different
PHOTO: Andy Welch
detox programs out there,”Bev told Zambezi Traveller. “However they all have one simple aim, to eliminate toxins from our bodies and achieve optimum health and well being.” Toxins can enter the body in many forms including the food we eat, the water we drink, pollution in the air, the toiletries we put on our skin and stress in our daily lives. When we detox we give our bodies a well deserved rest.
Exclusive B&B and self small groups and families.
Tel: 260 213 327120 Cell: 260 979 959981 info@pranazambia.com www.pranazambia.com Livingstone | Zambia
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ADVENTURE
Kayakers of the world, unite! A festival of whitewater kayaking on the Zambezi will be bigger and better next year
Off the Victoria Falls Bridge swing IN their kayaks!
By Evie Walker
L
ivingstone played host to the first rejuvenated annual Zambezi River Festival in October. Kayakers and rafters from all over the world came to play on the river, from some of the world’s best river professionals to total beginners. The first event was a brutal river race for all kayaking competitors from rapid
number 1 to 10, including the hike in and out of the 750 foot Batoka Gorge with their boats, giving everyone an appreciation for the amazing work that Makuma and his team of porters did throughout the week. Local boys Morgan, Windas and Mikey came out on top for this first race, but things were to change on each day of competition. The next few days brought plenty of challenges both on and off
The winners with their cup
the water, from throwing 15 of our willing competitors off the Victoria Falls Bridge swing IN their kayaks, to head-to-head races, slalom, freestyle competitions and a raft race before the final mystery race. Throughout the week competitors enjoyed all Livingstone had to offer both on and off the river, which meant that it was not just an event for whitewater kayakers, but anyone with a love for adventure and
Huge waves
a good time. Restaurants such as Olgas, The Spot, Waterfront, and Fezbar, joined awesome off-river activities and accommodation at Jollyboys Camp to involve much of Livingstone in the festival spirit.
Next year a bigger event is planned, with a limit in of 120 competitors, but plenty of pre and post festival activities for anyone who wants to explore the area. Dates to diarise are Saturday 27 October to Saturday 3 November. All photos by Hamish McMaster
The descent
OBITUARY
In memory of ‘the car doctor’ A tribute to well-known mechanic and businessman Harry Bennett of Livingstone. By ZT correspondent
A
large crowd gathered at the United Air Charter deck to celebrate the life of Harry Bennett and to honour him as a loving husband to Christie and father of Russell, Leanne and Tracey-Lee.
Harry and his family came to Livingstone 12 years ago and he soon established himself as a fine mechanic with customers coming from far and wide. Harry was an avid fisherman and with the Zambezi on his doorstep it wasn’t long before he befriended many other fishermen in Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia. Harry would have enjoyed these words so fitting for his family.“I know I cannot help having troubles in life, but one thing is for sure, they don’t belong in the house with my family. So I just hang them on the Trouble Tree when I come home in the evening and pick them up again when I go to work. Funny thing though, in the morning there are not nearly as many as I remembered hanging there the night before.” The family was given a baobab tree to plant in his memory, on which to hang up their troubles and walk away with uplifting memories of this fine man. The Livingstone community will sorely miss Harry and we offer our deepest condolences to Christie and the family.
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Culture
Lubasi – cultural diversity and good cooking A visitor writes of a tourist activity with a difference - her time at an orphanage in Livingstone. By Janet Berner
E
ntering the property of Lubasi we were greeted by staff and children wearing traditional costumes from their own tribes… Lozi, Bemba, Tonga. Music lela-lela’s shouted in excitement of our arrival and I knew we were on our way to an extraordinary experience. The volunteer team from Lanes’ Chapel, in Tyler, Texas, had been working with the children living at Lubasi Children’s Home for several days. Learning about these precious ones and hearing their stories of survival was a sweet and sour experience. The stories range from the death of both parents, being abandoned at a train station, to abject poverty preventing families from staying intact. Each child’s story unfolded as the team began to build relationships in the short time they were together doing volunteer work.
Cultural dance
The wonderful staff at Lubasi came up with a creative idea for raising money - a cultural dinner with homemade indigenous foods, followed by songs and dance by the children. I heard about the first fund-raiser after the fact and was hopeful that the staff would be willing to do the hard work of cooking and planning again. I jumped at the chance when Aunt Christina told me they would indeed be doing the dinner again. Once escorted to the
Lubasi is a community project mostly supported by local businesses and organizations in the Livingstone area. Although the Livingstone community supports the orphanage, Lubasi often experiences a shortfall of funds for food, electricity and expenses like gardening supplies, clothes and school supplies.
INSECTS
Tiger Moths and Footmen By Clare Mateke Keeper of Mammalogy Livingstone Museum
T
he rainy season is also moth season. There are many more moth species in the world than butterfly species, and many are still to be described and named. Tropical Africa has numerous moth species, many of which are as colourful and interesting as butterflies, if not more so. Moths are easy to study because they gather around lights in the evening and are often found settled on walls nearby, many remaining there until morning. A description of the various groups of moths or moth “families” can help in appreciating and identifying what you see. This article describes a colourful and fairly large group of moths called the Arctiidae.
The Arctiidae are a large and diverse family of moths, with about 300 species known from southern and central Africa and 11,000 species worldwide. They are typically brightly coloured in yellow, white or orange, often with black lines or spots, and the abdomen is frequently dotted. The family includes ‘tiger moths’ and ‘footmen’, tigers being larger with long, fairly
Crimson Speckled Footman (Utetheisa pulchella) Also called ‘Salt and pepper’. Occurs over most of Africa, southern Europe, Asia to Australia. Larva feeds on a variety of plants including grasses, plantains and cotton.
broad wings, while footmen are usually smaller with narrow wings and thinner abdomens. Tigers are named for their bright colours and markings (although some African species look more like leopards or cheetahs). Footmen are named for their plain colours, smooth scales and trim and smart appearance.
Investigated Ermine (Alpenus investagatorum) ‘Investigatorum’ means having dot-like tracings. Larva, which is densely clothed in long black hair, feeds on tobacco, cotton foliage and blackjack, among other plants.
The bright colours of many members of the Arctiidae family warn predators of their distastefulness. Many species retain distasteful or poisonous chemicals acquired from the plants they eat. Some species actually have the ability to make their own defenses, including cardiac glycosides and histamines. Some use frothing and secretion of defensive liquids to ward off predators. Many moths of this family have very hairy caterpillars, sometimes called “woolly bears”. The hairs may sting
Cheetah (Argina amanda) Female does not have the white rings around the black dots on the forewing. South to West Africa and Madagascar.
Teracotona rhodophaea Hind wing in male cream with black spot. South to Central Africa
dining hall, introductions were done and then the staff told us a bit about their tribes and the dishes they had prepared for us. Pumpkin leaves with peanut butter sauce, African sweet potatoes, cabbage with tomatoes and onions, chicken, fish, nshima (the staple food in most of sub-Saharan Africa), African polony, rape (a wonderful green Local cuisine vegetable), cassava, and on and on. Yummy! After experiencing this wonderful array of Zambian dishes, song and dance Zambian style was inclusive of staff, children and visitors. Whenever you visit Livingstone, ask your agent to contact Lubasi for a tour of the facility. I found the fee reasonable, knowing that it was an afternoon filled with a genuine Zambian experience and that it was a fund-raiser for the home. Thank you, staff and children of Lubasi for an experience of a lifetime.
when touched due to histamines that the caterpillar makes. If disturbed, some caterpillars will roll into a tight spiral. One distinctive feature of the Arctiidae family is that they have an organ on the body that can produce ultrasonic sounds. These sounds are used in mating and for defense against predators. At least one species is known to emit ultrasonic clicks when flying, thought to be a way of warning bats of its distastefulness in the same way that its coloration warns daytime predators.
Ubiquitous Footman (Lithosia natara) Resembles a beetle. Occurs in Africa, Europe and Asia.
Most of these moths fly at night, but a few are day-fliers. The larvae of tiger moths feed on low herbaceous plants and are commonly encountered in gardens, while footmen larvae feed on lichens. Very few species in this family are harmful to crops. When full-grown the larvae spin very thin silk cocoons, sometimes mixed with debris. Clare has been studying moths in Livingstone for the past 8 years and has photographed and identified over 250 different species in Livingstone alone
Branched Ermine (Paralacydes arborifera)
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WILDLIFE
An excellent variety of wildlife
Feedback from Nanzhila Plains Safari Camp in Kafue National Park, Zambia. By Judy Cumming
We had a wonderful sighting of a Wattled Crane. After being spotted she suddenly disappeared.
W
e recently spent a wonderful weekend at Nanzhila Plains Safari Camp, which is situated in the south of the Kafue National Park in Zambia. We were guests of owner, Steve Smith, and camp managers, Brad and Ruth Keast. The c amp has three thatched cottages and three luxury safari tents, all en suite and overlooking a dambo. The main entertainment area is on a raised platform beneath a huge Jackelberry tree, which always has an array of birds singing and generally just being very busy. We went on game drives with Steve and were delighted to record sighting 23 species of mammal in 24 hours; there are not many places where this happens. The highlights were good sightings of serval and civet, plus a honey badger which scampered across the road into the long grass right next to the vehicle. We saw a large herd of roan and sable antelope standing together, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest and Defassa waterbuck. This species of waterbuck, with its white rump patch, is only found west of the Great Rift Valley, ranging from Ethiopia, west to Senegal and
Peering into the green grass with our binoculars we saw what looked like a rounded pile of grey ash. As we moved closer she lost her nerve and gradually unfolded her beautiful grey and brilliant red wattled head and neck to reveal herself, then gracefully stood up and slowly sashayed off, looking very regal. We decided she must have been sitting on eggs, so left her in peace. PHOTO: JUDY CUMMING
Defassa Waterbuck
south to Zambia. In total we recorded 11 species of antelope. By the time we left we had seen 25 species of mammal ranging from the multimammate mouse (don’t you love this grand name for such a small creature) to huge bull elephants. Nanzhila Plains satisfy the keenest twitcher; we recorded 87 species in two days. A lifer for one of our group was the Sooty Chat, and for me the Purple Roller. We also saw the Lesser Jacana and our American friends saw the Blackcheeked Lovebirds the day before we arrived.
Visit www.nanzhila.com
Community
Hard work and great fun around ponies By Sam Tett
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ivingstone’s first Pony Club Camp teaches children the work and rewards of horsemanship. Seven privileged children took part in the first Pony Club camp at Chundu Farm on the Zambezi River upstream from Livingstone. Using their own or borrowed ponies and horses, the children aged from 7 – 11 years camped together for four nights with their ponies stabled at the pony lines next to the Polocrosse club house. There were more keen children than child-friendly mounts available. Instruction was by Annelies Finnaughty the DC as well as Zambian Polocrosse World Cup coach, Doug Evans.
Children caring for ponies
The Children were taught various aspects of stable management; feeding, mucking out, tack cleaning, grooming, bandaging, tacking up and plaiting, as well as riding. Day two brought polocrosse lessons then a guided trail ride along the Zambezi River. Day three was a gymkhana with barrel racing, bending poles, cup
At Nanzhila Plains Camp, we offer remote Africa in its true unrefined beauty. Vast and spacious. This offers our guests a unique African experience off the beaten path.
races, walk trot canter and sack race. For the gymkhana four extra children aged 3 - 6 joined in; they were too small to look after their own ponies but each had also taken riding lessons this year. The competition was fierce and winners were awarded traditional rosettes during the prize giving. The fourth and final day of camp was the Livingstone Club weekly Polocrosse
practise. Players and parents arrived to find all the children getting their own ponies ready by themselves, including the complicated polo bandages, as well as seeing great improvement of their riding and ball skills. Great fun was had by all and thanks go to all those involved in the organisation; needless to say everyone is keen on repeating the event in 2012.
Tailor made safaris Wildlife photography
4x4 car hire Bookings
www.africanview.it - info@africanview.it +260 213 327271 We also speak Italian!
Steve Smith – Owner Manager info@nanzhila.com
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history
Loyal to the ends of the earth By Peter Comley
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huma and Sussi, two servants who became friends and carers for the faltering explorer Dr David Livingstone, deserve their own place in history. When David Livingstone negotiated the release of a young Waiyau slave boy by the name of James Chuma from a slave gang near Lake Shirwa in 1861 he would have had no idea how richly that act of kindness would be rewarded. For three years Chuma travelled the Zambezi and its tributaries with his liberator in search of navigable waters to open trade into Africa’s heart. Then in an outrageous endeavour they sailed across the Indian Ocean to India in the miniscule boat Lady Nyassa that they had used on the rivers.
his seven desperate years in a vain search for the origin the world’s longest river. When his porters abandoned him they remained faithfully by Livingstone’s side, and when he was left destitute because all his goods had been stolen, they shared a dinner of rats with him. They carried him bodily when he collapsed from remorseless onsets of fever. When he was so weak that he couldn’t even raise his head, they paddled him in dug-outs across big waters to the safety of Ujiji. Here, Chuma greeted Stanley in fluent English when the American journalist eventually tracked down the missing Livingstone.
Chuma remained in Bombay in the care of Dr. John Wilson, head of the Free Church of Scotland Mission School, but was picked up again by Livingstone about eighteen months later when he returned to Africa to search for the source of the Nile.
After the doctor finally succumbed on 1 May 1873 to the litany of diseases that he had endured for so long, it was Chuma and Sussi who had his heart and innards removed through a small incision in his belly. His heart they buried in the Africa that he so dearly loved, but they had his body embalmed so that they could carry it on an epic, 1300 kilometre, life-threatening voyage that took them halfway across the continent to Bagamoyo in present day Tanzania.
Chuma, who by now could speak and write English, together with his Shupanga companion and camp cook, David Sussi, stayed loyal to Livingstone throughout
At times they had to travel stealthily at night in order to avoid the capture and summary execution that would have followed had they been caught with the remains of a white man by tribal chiefs.
Education
Branching out from Acacia By Ellen Cornelius (aged 11 years)
A
student in her last year of junior school in Livingstone, Zambia, looks back on the last few years and forward to the challenges of college.
I was born in Ireland but I moved to Africa when I was four years old. I have been going to Acacia School since 2005 and it has always been a really big part of my life. When I started, the school was very small, but we now have a new school building, new teachers and a lot more students. We also have new playing fields which we use for hockey, which is my favourite sport and the most popular sport at school. Even though we have never been forced to play sport I always have enjoyed it.
Students working on a computer
PHOTO: ACACIA SCHOOL
My favourite thing about my school is the chance to work with technology. I think the use of technology has really fueled my interest in journalism which has always interested me. The encouragement of my teachers really gave me confidence to join the school magazine club where I got to edit the magazine which was really a great experience. We also got the chance to learn about Livingstone town during school trips; my favourite was our project on religion, we visited many different places and I really did see Livingstone in a new light.
“PMR International 2nd year running Diamond Award Winners” “20 years of top quality service to date” Lusaka : +260 211 250920/ +260 211 255743 / Livingstone: +260 966 119 712 / Kitwe +260 212 22 7772 Email: janet@homenetzambia.com / homenetkitwe@zamnet.zm / livingstone@homenetzambia.com
www.homenetzamabia.com
From Bagamoyo they boarded a ship to Zanzibar where they were shown little gratitude by the British authorities, and they had to watch as the body of the man, to whom they had been so faithful, set sail for Westminster Abbey. Livingstone was buried without the presence of the two men who were his closest companions over many years, but both Chuma and Sussi did later get to visit the grave of the man for whom they had risked so much. In 1878 Chuma returned to the lake region of central Africa for three years when he joined a surveying expedition led by Johnston and Thomson. The names Chuma and Sussi have become synonymous with dedication and loyalty, but their greatest service to mankind is that they were instrumental in helping Livingstone expose the brutality of the slave trade in Africa to the outside world. Sanctuary Retreats beautiful lodge ‘Sussi and Chuma’ on the banks of the Zambezi in Livingstone is aptly named after these loyal Livingstone servants. www.sanctuaryretreats.com
I have always had a really good teacher so because of that I have achieved a lot, like Student of the Week, Word of the Week and a Certificate of Achievement. The Friends of Acacia have organized numerous fundraisers like the‘Master Chef Braai’which was so much fun; I was in a team which was stressful but rewarding.
I was also president of the Student Council which was hard work but it was amazing to know we could really change things. I have just been accepted to Girls’ College, Zimbabwe starting next January. I will leave with a sad face but I am excited for the future. Visit www.acaciaschool.com
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
INSECTS
Bees primed to get busy at Falls Resort association and train other members of the community as well to set up their own small or medium scale businesses. “I’m delighted to see the beehives. The location has already been prepared and with the coming of the beehives, I’m already seeing honey,”said Community Social Investment Co-ordinator, ‘Chief Strawberry’Musungaila. On the sidelines of the beekeeping project, there is
By ZT Correspondent
T
he long awaited beehives for the new community beekeeping project sponsored by Sun International Zambia have arrived and, if all goes to plan, the first honey could be produced for The Falls Resort by November.
Members of the community involved in the project will soon be travelling to Chongwe in Lusaka for training to upgrade their beekeeping skills. With added experience, these individuals will not only have a reliable livelihood, but will start a beekeeping
Advertise in the Livingstone Classifieds fjackson@iwayafrica.com Frances Jackson
Accommodation
CHANTERS LODGE Stay at Chanters lodge in Livingstone, great food, wonderful garden with pool, comfortable reasonably priced rooms in Lukulu Crescent, off Obote Avenue Phone: + 260 213 323412 Email : richardchanter@gmail.com http://www.chanters-livingstone.com twitter/@livilodge
Livingstone 9th December - School Christmas Concert & Market Acacia School 31st December - New Years Party with live music Waterfront Contact Charmaine 0978016727 Livingstone 31st December - New Years Dance with live music Chrismar Hotel Contact Cathy Miller 323141 Livingstone
+263 (0) 712 208 370
Airline & Bus Tickets
Butchery
Hardware
VICTORIA APARTMENTS Modern self-catering units with 2 en-suite bedrooms, fully equipped kitchens, DSTV, Wifi, secure parking and garden. US116 per suite per night – conditions apply. Next to Protea Hotel, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road Phone Mark + 260 (0) 973313644 vareservations@gmail.com
SOUTHEND TRAVEL: IATA Member Livingstone. Airline reservations and ticketing on Domestic, Regional & International flights.Free quotation Ticketing and reservations for Intercape Bus for routes to Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho Border, Mozambique Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone town centre Phone: +260 213 320241/320773/322128 Skype : southend.travel southend@zamnet.am
FALLSMEAT LTD: Top quality meat, biltong and boerwors and many other products. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone Town Centre Phone + 260 (0) 979497181
December Mosi – oa –Tunya Road Opposite Makuni Park Tel/Fax : + 260 213 322521 Cell : + 260 (0) 977141874 vadoma@zamnet.zm
WALK WITH THE RHINO on a 3 hour ‘walking safari’ in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Inclusive pick-up and drop-off, park fees, professional guide, game scout , light breakfast, halfway snacks, cold water/soft drinks.‘ TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE‘ LIVINGSTONE SAFARIS Tel : + 260 213 322267 Cell : + 260 (0) 977450716 geckos@zamnet.zm
Agriculture NGOLIDE LODGE Well equipped air-conditioned rooms. Special 2 night packages Contact us : + 260 213 321091/2 E-mail : ngolidelodge@gmail.com www.ngolidelodge.com
Events
Accommodation
Activities
TECHNICAL SPRAYERS SERVICES/CROP SERVE We sell fertilizers & chemicals, vegetable & maize seeds, chemical sprayers, conservation agricultural tools and advise. John Hunt Way, opposite Anglican Church Phone: + 260 (0) 976553035 or 260 (0) 975626863
Car Hire THUNDERBIRD INVESTMENTS: Car hire, car rentals, taxis, tours. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road Tel: + 260 213 320331 thunderbirds@microlink.zm
Designing & Printing
Auto Repair BENNETT ENGINEERING. Professional engine assembling, vehicle maintenance and servicing. Skimming of cyclinder heads. Reborring/ skimming engine blocks. Press fit conrods. Test/set/fit injector nozzles. Fitting of cam bushes. Vehicle diagnostic. Import spares from South Africa Mosi-os-Tunya Road, opposite Falls Park Contact : + 260 213 321611 + 260 (0) 97830936
Books & Stationery Visit BOOKWORLD , YOUR ONE STOP SHOP ! An exciting selection of books available for Christmas presents. All text books and stationery for the start of the new school year. Contact us + 260 213 321414
also a project to train people how to make modern and highly efficient beehives. This will be done initially with youths from Katombora Reformatory School as a skills development programme to enable them to find a place in society after leaving from school. In addition, fish farming and agricultural projects are underway at the school, also suppor ted by Sun International Zambia.
FALLSTECH We specialize in artwork, printing t-shirts, letter heads, business cards, Invoice books . Designing & mounting billboards. Opposite Makuni Park Phone 260 (0) 0955444113, (0) 976403088 fallstech@yahoo.com
Internet Café THUNDERBIRD INVESTMENTS Fax facilities, internet access,photocoping, printing, scanning, CD burning Mosi-oa- Tunya Road Tel : + 260 213 320331 thunderbirds@microlink.zm
Shopping
Fuel Station
REFLECTIONS: Good stock of Christmas gifts and cards, camping equipment, tents etc. Find us at Falls Park Phone + 260 (0) 977788575
ENGEN – FALLS PARK Towards Victoria Falls. 24 hour fuel. Convenient Store Phone : + 260 213 322584 ambleside@zamnet.zm
Restaurants
Hardware
LAUGHING DRAGON CHINESE RESTAURANT Superb Sichuan Cuisine, Take-aways & restaurant. SELF-CONTAINED LOCAL ACCOMMODATION John Hunt Way, behind Post Office Phone : + 260 213 322555
VADOMA LTD Suppliers of building/ plumbing/electrical materials, paints,carpentary and glue products. Agents forTAP supplies, glass cutting, cement etc. Discounts for purchases Above K200,000 during
NGOLIDE LODGE RESTAURANT now open
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PO Box 60014, Livingstone, Zambia Corner Obote Avenue & Mosi-Oa-Tunya Rd Tel: +260 21 3 322828 Fax: +260 21 3 322929 Email: livingstone@bdo.co.zm
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travel in Style! with Mazhandu Family Buses
THE GOLDEN LEAF RESTAURANT Serving lunches and dinners. Indian/Continental cuisine. Available for functions Opposite ZRA Phone + 260 213 321266
Daily Routes Livingstone Sesheke
Daily Departure Times Lusaka
Livingstone
1st Bus 06:30Hrs
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Travel and Booking Enquiries Mazhandu Family Bus Services Ltd +260 977 805064 (Hotline) +260 975 805064 (Livingstone) Email: panga@zamnet.zm www.mazhandu.com
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
55
er! Wow,
Travell , y pies of the d o c d e 0 of reading 1 T d r e Dea any hours - receiv m y , rl e a e m ti e is m a ls section,
Hi Francie and Teddy...
Proof that the Zambezi Traveller is read by many people from all walks of life! Foresters from the Czech Republic read an article on the Kaza TFCA in your newspaper whilst visiting Livingstone. That resulted in an invitation for me to present talks at Mendel University in Brno. Max and I were treated with the greatest hospitality. I now know that foresters around the world are truly a brotherhood. We met field foresters whose passion for their profession reminded me of the times in our part of the world when working in the forests and parks was way more than just a job. We met families where forestry as a profession was into the third generation! I had the great pleasure of riding through natural oak forests on horseback and attended a wild boar hunt. We were shown around the historic gardens of Prague by the curator in charge of the 700 year old gardens. That was a great privilege for me. What impressed me is that the curator Mr. Pavlis Snr. rides a Harley Davidson! It does not get better than that. A forester riding a Harley! The Czech Hunting and Wildlife Conservation Association hosted us for lunch. The Czech people have a long history of sound conservation management of wildlife and forests. We attended a unique event at the Prague cathedral where the hunt was blessed with great pomp and ceremony. There was an amazing male choir whose voices filled the ancient cathedral and bearded men dressed in green holding hunting horns. We look forward to a long friendship with the Czech foresters and to showing them around our teak forests here on Kalahari Sands. Keep up the good work. Thanks to the Zambezi Traveller for that opportunity!
c lside Bow aper it is th Christmas to the Hil ick newsp n th o s ly e ed in the ie v p lo o c a what hly interest port local. e passed ig v h a h re I e ! w g p all in eople to su iends and and dream nd some fr ill encourage more p pleased that they a n io g e L The this w ora Bassa, Hopefully te and Cab e T t u contents. o b a e and read Nice to se cluded. ok forward are also in us and I lo to one, se e th g ndin ading this re se r d e fo h h is c n u fi so very m aven’t even Thank you edition. H t x e n e th g to receivin rts!! ll the adve a d a re n eve ul work. we e wonderf th p u p re, Zimbab e e and k s, scent, Muta rd re a C g y rd re a st H Be St James, urrin - 15 Christine C The Zambezi Traveller welcomes letters to the editor fjackson@iwayafrica.com
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30000 world wide
Teddy Brightman Accounts Advertising & Subscriptions Victoria Falls, Chobe, Caprivi and Windhoek Tel: +263 (0) 712 217 178, Email: teddy@yoafrica.com
Frances Jackson All Editorial & Advertising Victoria Falls, Kariba, Middle Zambezi (Zambia and Zimbabwe), Livingstone, Lusaka, Mozambique Tel:+263 (0) 712 208 370, Email: fjackson@iwayafrica.com
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Alan Sparrow With Czech foresters at Oldris
HISTORY
Those early days of forestry - a reader responds
Further detail on the personalities and operations of Chobe Timber Concession half a century ago In the early days the settlement elephants used to roam, as they had always done, down to the river. W. S. Chadwick, father of Kevin now in Kasane, wrote a story for OUTSPAN magazine describing one such exciting siege of Serondella by elephants which trapped everybody in doors for over a week.
Sitting on a log
By David Whitehead
R
e: History of Chobe National Park; I would like to comment on the two articles in ZT Issue #2 by Robyn Keene-Young and Judy Hepburn.
I worked for Hugh Tevis’s Chobe Timber Concession (CTC) at Serondella as a forester and then in the sawmill for a total of nine months spread over three
years between 1953 and 1955. As a university student, I would relieve a staff member who was due long leave, hence three short contracts with R. J. Keylock, the manager, who had taken over from a Norwegian, Rolf Dahl. The forests had been managed by a succession of his countrymen - Lief Ericson, Pedder Carlson and Lars Larsen - and latterly by Hugh Burton and Mr Swartz from Ghanzi.
CTC extracted teak, mahogany and mukwa trees along successive 16 mile long tracks into the forest which was teeming with elephants and game. Perhaps because of the devastating rinderpest plague in the late 1890s, the tsetse fly had not yet returned. Amazingly these tracks can still be seen today on Google Earth. Please note Robyn, logging was sustainable – unlike in western Zambia today – because only trees of more than 10 inches in diameter could be felled with axes - chainsaws were never used in those days. The Forestry Dept. in Kasane regularly inspected the Concession forest and log yard.
Logs were dragged to the track by spans of oxen or a Fowler tractor before being loaded onto Leyland lorries or trailers towed, six at a time as shown, by a DW10 caterpillar tractor. All the vehicles and tractors were expertly maintained by Benny Bennike, Jo Woods and Louis B. Priem. The compound manager was Ken Momsen; the medical orderly Duncan Malazie. The farm section growing rice, maize and vegetables had been established by Luigi Stradiotti before the colourful Pop Lamont took over. The teak was cut up into railway sleepers using an enormous breakdown saw. Off-cuts were used to provide parquet flooring. The valuable mukwa planks were sold to furniture makers in Rhodesia and South Africa. The sawmill had been run by Halvor Hoff, Ginger Mitchell, Ted Villiers, Jimmy Warren and Ted Anderson before my time with CTC. The sawn timber either went by barge towed by a launch to
Mambova on the Zambezi (the Chobe river has since silted up but was navigable then) or by road to the rail head in Livingstone. Electricity for the mill and settlement was generated efficiently by a huge suction gas engine, of which there were two weighing 250 tons each. The gas was methane produced by burning off-cuts in a special furnace whereby the intake for the engines sucked the inflammable gas off from below the flames. To start the engines each morning George Honman used compressed air. Our chief engineer Benny had his own Fairchild aeroplane so visiting Livingstone, where my parents lived, was not difficult. My grateful thanks to Jonathan Hill for information on personnel employed by the Concession. Sincerely, David Whitehead – learner forester (at the time)
Available from: Local Hotels and Lodges and coffee shops The travellers friend, a definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi. Distributed world wide to Travel Agents, industry shows, hotels, lodges and key public areas throughout the region, including capital cities. Expose your destination, activities, businesses to an international market through the Zambezi Traveller. Editorial Submissions Zambezi Traveller welcomes editorial submissions but reserves the right to publish. Email in Word format to fjackson@iwayafrica.com
Publisher The Zambezi Traveller P O Box 183, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Design and Layout Baynham Goredema Xealos Design Consultants www.xealos.com Printing Strand Multiprint
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isclaimer All information and points of view are of those of the people who submitted them, and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Editors. Whilst every effort has been made to ascertain the validity of the information submitted Zambezi Traveller cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies. Zambezi Traveller does not accept any liability for any advertising copy/content not received correctly. Zambezi Traveller reserves the right to refuse advertising material that does not meet its specifications or advertising standards.
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56
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend
Conservation
The rhino’s path through history A brief summary of the successes and failures of rhino conservation in Southern Africa
these relatively puny beasts. The thing is that while many dinosaurs were strictly vegetarian, not one of them ever ate a single blade of grass. How do we know that? Well, grass along with other flowering plants, only evolved after the demise of the big lizards.
By Peter Comley
A
t least twenty-six species of rhino - ranging in size from that of a small pig to a shorter-necked giraffe have become extinct over time, the latest being the woolly rhino, which survived until just last week in geological time, having succumbed just 15 000 years ago to the latest ice-age. Now only five species survive, and three of these – the Javan, Sumatran and the black rhino - are on their way out forever, in our own short lifetimes, unless we stop poaching them.
The black rhino, on the other hand, had taken another route. Their population by the late 1980s was a quarter of what it had been in the 70s, and they were charging headlong towards extinction outside of places like London Zoo, where they bred happily. London was bizarrely destined to have a larger black rhino population than Botswana.
Africa boasts - though in a very small voice it must be said – two of those five species that have thus far avoided extinction, although both are teetering on the abyss. These are the black rhino, which are not black at all, but grey, and the white rhino, which are not even vaguely white but… much the same grey really. The terms came from a simple mix-up of the Dutch word “wyd” (meaning wide and referring to the broad mouth of the grazer), which someone with a hearing impediment heard as ‘white’ - and the other species
Black Rhino
was named by a complete twit who saw the world in opposites, and so called it ‘black.’ Following an onslaught against rhinos to rival the slaughter of bison on the Great American Plains, by the late 1800s white rhinos were considered extinct in Southern Africa.
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
However, with the kind of good fortune that white rhinos desperately needed, a small group of less than a dozen animals was found hiding in Zululand by people who cared enough to save them and not turn their horns into a hairy form of Viagra. I must admit that I was disappointed to learn the truth that the
Chinese traditional doctors do not use the keratin-rich powder as an aphrodisiac, as much as prescribe it for fevers and convulsions. If we are going to exterminate an entire family of animals, I would have hoped that it should be for the higher cause of glorious orgasms rather than for the occasional relief of a few twitching muscles or sweaty brows.
This tiny group of white rhinos, once given the chance to breed, had grown to about 4000 in number by the late 1980s. Interestingly they are considered to be the largest pure grazers ever to amble about on this earth, which seems a strange claim as there were numerous dinosaurs that were much larger than
The problem for the 6000 or so that have made it so far is that they are split into seven subspecies - five of which have populations of under five hundred, and all of which are scattered over the southern, eastern and possibly central parts of the African continent, in isolated islands of dubious safety. With the recent increase in poaching, caused in large part by the sudden emergence of a huge wealthy class in China, rhinos around the globe are facing the final curtain.
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