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Issue 10
Conservation
The Cheetah: An icon of the Zambezi It is the fastest animal on land, a successful hunter and an animal many people on safari in Africa would love to see
09 Culture BaTonga Impande
By Dr. Gianetta Purchase
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hy, elusive, beautiful, with tawny eyes that appear to hold all the sadness of the world, set off by the distinctive black ‘tear lines’ running down its face. And yet in reality the cheetah is a formidable hunter, belying its image of fragility. Cheetahs are unique – a unique species belonging to a unique genus; there is no other animal like it. From the tip of its semi-retractable claws to its small head and ears, the cheetah is made for speed and agility. Long legs, a lithe body, an incredibly flexible spine and a strong tail that acts to stabilise at high speed, the cheetah can run and twist after its equally agile prey, bringing down its target 70-80% of the time. A larger-than-normal heart pumps blood to its strong muscles, allowing it to reach speeds of up to 100 kms/ hour in a very short space of time.Top Gear would love this animal if it was a car! But although the description evokes an animal only able to hunt successfully in grassland or open ecosystems, the cheetah is adaptable and able to survive in many different habitats, from the arid lands of Namibia to thick mopane and wet grassland
15 Rare Species The Guide’s Holy Grail
20 History Origin of Sunday School
31 Research Research without borders
40 Wildlife Clash of the Titans Zambia Cheetah: The Final frontier - pg 16 Cheetahs at play
Botswana Conservation in Action– pg 28 Farmers, key for Cheetah future – pg 29
floodplains. Even a small clearing in dense woodland is all a cheetah needs to sprint and kill its prey – in fact it can only run for short periods of time, as the increase in heat from muscle activity rapidly becomes dangerous. For now, the Zambezi catchment area is home to a large percentage of the remaining population of
Namibia Cheetah centre leads the way – pg 36 Zimbabwe Spot the difference - pg 3 8
cheetahs in Africa (less than 10 000). The network of protected areas, community wildlife areas and land where
EXPERIENCE THE WONDER. www.suninternational.com
human populations are still low (and wild prey populations high) all make for a good home for this amazing animal.
PHOTOS: JassIel M’soka
How long this will be the case remains to be seen, but the prognosis is good at the moment. Read ‘Conservation in Action’ (pg30) for more information on the threats this animal is facing, and what is being done by a determined and dedicated group of organisations to ensure that the cheetah remains an icon of the Zambezi river.
51 Environment Can Tete go green?
Regulars Victoria Falls 3, Bulawayo 13, Hwange 14, Kafue 16, Luangwa 17, Livingstone 19, Lusaka 27 Okavango 28, Chobe 31, Caprivi & Kavango 36, Kariba & Middle Zambezi 37, Harare 47, Cahorra & Tete 49, Letters 55
zambezi welcome
2 Travellers Friend Conservation
Photo : Tom Varley
In the tracks of giants
Ian Michler, Alan Sparrow and Ian McCallum on the Victoria Falls bridge
By Alan Sparrow
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hese two men and a back-up team are on a mission. Their plan is to walk, cycle or kayak from the Namibian coast to the Mozambique coast in four months. Ian Michler and Ian McCallum are the team leaders, both respected professional wilderness guides and authors. Their quest is to physically walk ancient elephant trails, to camp under the stars, to challenge the rapids on the Zambezi River and to meet the giants of conservation along the way. Their aim is to see for themselves how wildlife conservation is doing and to highlight the key role that wildlife corridors across borders are playing.
One of the aims of the ‘Tracks of Giants’ initiative is to examine how the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area is shaping up. The sheer size and scale of the Kaza TFCA is unprecedented, with parks and forests spread over five countries, including world-renowned tourism attractions such as the Okavango Delta, the Chobe and the Caprivi Strip, Victoria Falls, Lake Kariba and Hwange National Park, just to name a few of the jewels. More than 200 000 elephants needing space to move are the engine that drives the creation of new wildlife corridors that will link the ‘green bits’ on the map. Ian Michler calls the Kaza TFCA project
Travelling coast to coast across a continent on foot, bicycle and canoe, two conservationists explore what may be the last-ditch stand to preserve Africa’s great wildlife ranges. “the last roll of the dice” where conservation on a large scale can still take place; where ancient elephant migration paths can be re-established through the setting up of new wildlife corridors without regard to political boundaries. The Giants team interviewed Garth Owen-Smith who has worked for more than 30 years in the Kaokoveld area and the Caprivi Strip in Namibia. In recognition of his contributions to conservation, Garth was one of the recipients of the Golden Ark awards from Prince Barnard of the Netherlands in 1997. In Botswana the team met with Mike Chase and Kelly Landen of Elephants Without Borders and saw first-hand the ground-breaking work they are doing to monitor the movement of elephant across
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the Zambezi river heading north-west into Angola and north-east into Zambia. In July the team kayaked from Sesheke to Mwandi on the Zambezi River where they interviewed Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta of the Barotse Royal Establishment in Zambia. The senior chief is a key figure in the establishment of the Simalaha Community Conservancy which is creating a wildlife corridor that will enable elephant south of the Zambezi River to link with those in the Kafue National Park in Zambia. Zambezi Traveller attended a gathering of conservationists hosted by Wilderness Safaris at Toka Leya Lodge near Livingstone. The vision of Tracks of Giants was explained to a wide range of key players in conservation, including government park management agencies, the private sector and traditional leaders from two countries. This was not a workshop in the usual format, but an animated discussion among a group of highly committed conservationists, including Roger and Jess Parry of the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust, whose contributions to rural school children’s education and to the lessening of human wildlife conflict are well recognised locally.
Zambezi Traveller After being caught on camera as they cycled across the Victoria Falls bridge, the Gizants team cycled south to Hwange National Park, halfway through their epic journey from sea to sea. M y l a s t evening with Tracks of Giants was spent around a roaring campfire beneath Acacia tortillis trees on the banks of the
Deka river, sponsored by the Karasellos brothers of Victoria Falls. The fire-side talk was of how much positive work was going on and how the ‘two Ians’ intend to document the passion and commitment of so many key players in this corner of the world, where the last roll of the dice has a real chance of being the winning throw
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3
Education
Sylvester finds his niche By Jessica Parry
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PHOTO: Wild Horizon Trust
ome 18 months ago, Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust was asked to take in and rehabilitate an orphaned cheetah. Little did those involved realize what an amazing ambassador this animal would become. This individual cannot be released back into the wild due to human imprinting and lack of ability for prey selection and hunting. For ‘Sylvester,’ home must remain the Wild Horizons Wildlife Sanctuary, but his contribution to cheetah conservation is huge.
PHOTO: Kris OELOFSE
Sylvester in full stride
programme for rural schools, which will go some way to protect wild cheetah populations resident in the region.
Charity
Full moon madness By ZT Correspondent
PHOTO: TM WALKER
Sylvester integrates with guests, and he is part of an interactive conser vation
Sylvester, Wildlife ambassador with local school children
By the light of the full moon, amid steel, spray and screams, many mad bungee jumpers threw themselves into the dark void in the name of charity recently. Spectators looked on from the comfort of the Bridge Café where they saw the illuminated bodies plunging. Due to popular demand, Victoria Falls Bungee repeated the event the following night where more
jumpers dared to dive into the darkness, following the 23 that braved it the night before. Proceeds from the event went to two causes, Rose of Charity and Overland Missions. Rose of Charity is based in Chinotimba Township in Victoria Falls, caring for abandoned babies in an orphanage as well as assisting more than 70 local children with essentials such as school fees, food, clothing and medication. The donation from Full Moon
Madness will be used towards setting up a new library. Overland Missions is dedicated to drilling wells in neglected communities in rural Zambia, providing access to clean water in a sustainable way. This project could not start at a more critical time with southern Zambia in the early stages of a serious drought. www.roseofcharity.webs.com; www.overlandmissions.com
It is interesting to note that wild cheetah have passed through the Sanctuary and Sylvester has seen them, yet had no interest in interacting with them. Among other lessons, the Trust’s conservation education programme teaches:• Species identification of different predators. • The positive impact of wildlife, for instance creating jobs in tourism. • What to do, and not to do, when there is human / wildlife conflict. •
The conservation status of different species, and how people can help improve that status.
• The difference between hunting and poaching. • The importance of wildlife conservation for the future of Zimbabwe.
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4 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Conservation
New arrival at private reserve By ZT correspondent
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his little bundle of joy came as something of a surprise because it was assumed that his mother ‘Bambi’ had reached the end of her breeding days. No such concerns for dad ‘Shungu’ who has now fathered four progeny during his short tenure in the breeding program established by Shearwater and Rani Resorts.
The Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve is delighted to announce the birth of a black rhino.
PHOTO: SHEARWATER
Left: The new born baby rhino Right: Mother and calf
The female elephant, named ‘Detema,’ was caught by surprise when a crocodile lurking beneath the murky water surged out and latched onto the end of her trunk. She was brought down onto her hind legs but the eight year
old elephant was not giving up. Despite the predator’s legendary strength, she shook off her attacker and fled from the water’s edge. Detema was fortunate to survive her ordeal with few
injuries and is being cared for by her handlers. The 4 000 hectare reserve is home to over 2 000 animals including more than 25 large animal species, including six black rhino, four of which have been bred on the reserve.
In early June a pride of seven lion slipped under the fence and are now sighted on most game drives. Lured in by the abundance of prey species, the lions are frequent dry season visitors.
Development
A new take-away opens on Victoria Falls Main Street
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he main street of Victoria Falls has a new take-away. Wok ‘n Roll offers a simple menu of oriental dishes, burgers and rolls, something for all tastes. The food is freshly prepared,
W NO
Healthy options
!
EN
OP
A new takeaway offering a selection of oriental dishes, game burgers, rolls and a delicious kiddies menu has just opened, offering a healthier and exciting choice of food for the whole family. Located on the corner just down from Seven Eleven. Contact us on 43429
PHOTOS: WOK N ROLL
Meanwhile, a routine drink at the water hole recently resulted in a life-or-death struggle between one of Shearwater’s elephants and a hungry crocodile. Elephants often drink in the evenings but this particular day involved a battle of titanic proportions.
loaded with fresh vegetables and flavour. Geoff Gover, the owner, says he is excited to be offering a healthy option of take-away food.
zambezi victoria falls
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 5
Tourism
Travel Victorian style By ZT correspondent
T PHOTO: ZAMBEZI TRAVELLER
his is the first commercial tram for tourism in Africa, manufactured to order by Prof Engineering in South Africa which specialises in the building of locomotives. Every aspect of the tram has been authentically recreated in true Victorian elegance with loving attention to detail.
Lorne Steele, Sean Young, Strath Brown, Dawn Brown, Andrew Findlay, Marian Findlay, Frances Sherren, Stan, Mike Sherren, Charlene Pullen. The men and women behind, Victoria Falls Steam Train Company, Dirt Road, Journeys and Destinations.
Community
“I think when things are not at their best, it is often the best time to invest. Ilala Lodge, was completed as a luxury hotel in 1988, and we didn’t have to wait too long. In the‘90s Victoria Falls was a boom town and the hotel did well.
Strath Brown By Frances Jackson Forty two years in business in Victoria Falls and Strath Brown is still finding new entrepreneurial ventures. I enjoyed spending time with Brown before the launch of Victoria Falls’latest mode of transport – the tram. Brown’s first business venture in the Falls started when New Zealander Rob Gee and Brown’s college friend David Higgins convinced him to invest in crocodile farming. “I was a so-called sleeping partner, but I still came up to Victoria Falls once a month with my cheque book! Over the years the croc farm has become a passionate interest and I have become involved in researching and developing all aspects of crocodile farming. Now at my ripe age I am fortunate that my sons have taken over the
“I actually enjoy starting new businesses, and over the years I have started many, some not so successful, but most have been rewarding. I have real confidence in the future of Zimbabwe and especially in Victoria Falls, and I am excited about the prospects of these latest business ventures that I have become involved in.” running of Spencer’s Creek Crocodile Farm and still employ me as a consultant.” Then, 25 years ago, at a time when the drive from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls was considered down-right hazardous due to dissident activity, and when the only two hotels open in Victoria Falls were the Victoria Falls Hotel and the Makasa Sun, Strath made the decision to build his own hotel.
Strath and Dawn Brown have opened a tour operating company Journeys and Destinations and in association with Andrew and Marian Findlay, Mike and Frances Sherren of Dirt Road Traders, will market a variety of safari packages and activities available in the region alongside quality safari clothing and accessories. Strath and his wife Dawn also own Victoria Falls Estate Agents and are encouraged by the town’s buoyant property market.
“Today is a historic day in Victoria Falls with the launching of the Victoria Falls Tram, bringing history to life in the town,” said Strath Brown, one of the longest established businessmen in Victoria Falls. “Dirt Road Traders in association with Journeys and Destinations are very pleased to be launching our products alongside the tram activity in Victoria Falls,” he said. The tram seats 32 passengers on eight tram-styled wooden slatted benches that flip over
for either direction of travel. The tram is also equipped for night drives and trips during wet weather conditions or sheltering guests from the spray of the Mosi Oa Tunya.
Sundowner Spot in the world by BA Horizons Magazine, and was the setting for the Victorian styled launch of the tram, with unparalleled views providing the back drop.
The Victoria Falls Steam Train Company launched a new addition to its railway experiences around Victoria Falls, the Victoria Falls Tram, in early September. The Victoria Falls Tram will offer daily shuttles to the Rain Forest, bridge and to Jafuta siding, allowing travellers to step back in time into true colonial travel. The tram will also provide transfers and enhanced experiences in combination with other activities around the bridge and Jafuta. A daily Sunset Bridge Run includes champagne, drinks and canapés; this experience was voted as the sixth best
Sundowners on the bridge a la Tram style
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6 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Wildlife
The nightlife of the the wild By ZT Correspondent
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ver the course of the last 12 months Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust (WHWT) has been conducting a camera trap survey on the Wild Horizons Wildlife Sanctuary to try and identify what wildlife species are present. We had the usual suspects of waterbuck, bushbuck, baboons, monkeys, giraffe, buffalo, duiker, wildebeest, kudu, impala and of course elephant. However, we also managed to capture some sightings of animals not commonly seen including: a caracal with her kitten, serval, aardvark, genets, a rare aardwolf and very interestingly two images of a female cheetah. When we saw the first photo we assumed she had just made a kill and eaten due to the size of her belly, a few days
Interesting images of the cheetah taken on our camera traps on the Wildlife Sanctuary. later she was caught on camera again looking a lot slimmer. Having now seen the three cubs we assume she was pregnant in the first photograph and had delivered in the second.
Pregnant Cheetah, 6:32am - 15/3/12
Cheetah mum 3 days later, 6:53pm - 18/3/12
Serval and kitten, 1:12am - 25/7/2012
Leopard, 5:21am - 26/5/2012
Furthermore, two adult leopard have also been captured on film, at the same spot a week apart. One male and one female. The WHWT would like to thank the Zambezi Society and Oxford WildCru / Hwange Lion research for their support and funding for this project.
Aardwolf, 9:21pm - 28/3/12
Civit, 9:14pm - 21/7/12
Antbear / Aardvark 2:23am - 21/3/12
Hyena, 6:51pm - 4/8/12
Caracal and Kitten, 6:28pm - 25/7/12
Caracal and kitten, 7:07pm - 12/4/12
One stop ground handling and activity provider Tom Varley in the wild documenting meercats
Victoria Falls Productions Private Photography / Videography services Tom Varley will take high quality Pictures / Video of your Experience in Africa
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Where three countries meet on the banks of the Zambezi
Victoria Falls | Livingstone | Chobe Tours, transfers and activities
White water rafting | Canoeing | Hirewire | Elephant back safaris | Lion encounters | Helicopter flips.
Accommodation Elephant Camp - Luxury accommodation overlooking the gorge. Imbabala Safari Lodge - Comfortable accommodation, good fishing, great game viewing on the banks of the Zambezi. Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571, 42013, 44426 or 44282 Cell: +263 (0) 712 213 721 or + 263 (0) 772 209 118 Email: info@wilhorizons.co.zw or threeten@wildhorizons.co.za
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 7
Tourism
Students test the product By the Chisi girls
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e would advise any v isitor to Zimbabw e to v isit Victoria Falls where tourists are welcomed by the local residents. Customer service everywhere is outstanding. We can assure you, the trip is worth it! We were fortunate enough to go elephant and horse back riding where we were able to take in the beautiful scenery as well as catch glimpses of a variety of wild life. The girls that went elephant riding met Sylvester the cheetah who has been hand reared. Other activities included high tea at the exquisite Victoria Falls Hotel where we were served with
As part of their A level Travel and Tourism course, the Chisipite Senior School Upper Six class of 2012 took a trip to Victoria Falls. Preparations included fundraising to help pay for our accommodation and activities. a variety of bite size snacks such as caviar, cakes and finger sandwiches. The visit to Ko Mpisi, an African Village just outside of town, was both interesting and educational and we were welcomed with open arms. The sunset cruise and visit to the Falls was breathtaking. Whether it was seeing the hippos and crocodiles in the Zambezi or taking in the sight of the actual Falls, we definitely enjoyed it all.
We arranged guided tours of various hotels and lodges in Victoria Falls including Ilala Lodge Hotel, Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, Victoria Falls Hotel and The Kingdom. All these hotels offered a variety of different services to make their guests comfortable. We stayed at Lokuthula Lodges where we were greeted by our friendly neighbours, the warthogs, every morning. We held a conference at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge where we took full advan-
Chisi girls at The Victoria Falls Hotel
tage of all the facilities available to us. Lunch at their restaurant, MakuwaKuwa , was mouth-watering. We would recommend any visitor
Charity
Peace, love and photography ZT Correspondent
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n Sept 21, for the International Day of Peace. Ashley & Filip of Peace Love & Photography, will gather 500 children from Zambia and Zimbabwe as the next location for the ABCharity project and “The World’s Largest Art Project For charit y”. The event is supported by both the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority as well as the Zambian Tourism Board. This event will mark the beginning of the cooperation between the 2 Countries leading up to the UNWTO next year. ABCharity is the alphabet made with thousands of children from around the World, doing one letter per Country. When the Global Alphabet is complete the
Elephant back riding Ashleigh Finch, Kylie Irving, student and elephant handler
to Victoria Falls to have a meal at the Boma Restaurant; it was a highly enjoyable evening.
letters will be sold and companies and individuals will be able to buy their name (CANON buys C.A.N.O.N) and 100% of the money goes straight to charity. They have done the letter A in South Africa, the letter B on the Dunes of Namibia and now will do the letter C in front of the Victoria Falls. The event will first take place in Zimbabwe and they will then head to Zambia for celebration. Not only is it the event on the International Day of Peace, it also marks the 2 year anniversary for this dynamic duo. Their mission for this project is to not only raise 10 million USD for charity, but to raise hope and inspire children from all around the World to effect change. In Zimbabwe they have local supporters such as 7/11, Blessing from Victoria Falls Hotel, Star FM, Shearwater with a
We were greeted with a traditional drink Chibuku, and we got to pick and choose our food and watch it being
Ashley & Filip of Peace Love & Photography and the Namibian ‘B’
Helicopter, Lola’s Tapas will provide sandwiches for the kids and Elephant Hill will support with the venue for the after party and The mighty Beverage Company. They are still seeking help with one National sponsor for the event who can assist with financial support to make this dream a reality. In Zambia they have received support from UTC providing transportation,
The Bridge Cafe with mineral water and they are still seeking sponsors for food/ beverage, and giveaways for the children. If you would like to come by and witness this historical event you can view it on from the Zambian side overlooking Danger Point. To learn more you can visit www. peaceloveandphotography.tv www.facebook.com/peaceloveandphotography
Photo : Wild Horizons
cooked. After dinner we learnt to play African drums and participated in a dancing game which was quite humorous. Anyone brave enough to eat a Mopani worm was awarded a ‘Boma diploma.’
“I had my most intense aesthetic experience when I was suddenly exposed to the sublime beauty of the sculpture executed by African artists.” - Pablo Piccasso PERMANENT EXHIBITION Victoria Falls Hotel, Zimbabwe Tel: +263 13 - 41757 Email: artafrica@bluewin.ch www.stonedynamicsgallery.co.zw
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8 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Sport
Running through the ages By Libby White
There was ample opportunity to watch myriad competitors pass by. Firstly I watched the Fun Run where hundreds of young competitors either ran with family members or were pushed in a pram by their mums and dads, all slogging their way up the hill. (Let us not forget to mention the bevy of beauties of the male gender who ran in bikinis!) Perhaps this is where it starts – encouraged at a young age, these children learn to love the thrill of participating and running. From there it would appear that a large majority people never lose it!
PHOTO: Libby White
PHOTO: Julia Brightman
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hat is it with this w hol e r u n n i n g thing? What is it with this sport that draws such a spectrum of people from the young to the definitely notso-young? This year I had the opportunity to travel around the beautiful but undoubtedly tough route of the Victoria Falls marathon in a car rather than on two feet. Encounters with kudu along the way
To the casual observer, marathon running really doesn’t hold much appeal. Dauntingly long, winding up-hills, energy-sapping temperatures, dehydration, stitches, cramps, to mention just a few of the challenges. So, what is it that draws people back time and again? Perhaps it’s the thrilling feeling of really pushing yourself while travelling through beautiful countryside on foot, or perhaps it’s the addictive endorphin rush as you pass an enthusiastic group of supporters yelling and cheering.
Age was not a factor
Alternatively it could be the realization of how lucky you are as you wait quietly for a herd of kudu to leap over the road before you carry on. But it’s undoubtedly the addictive feeling of achievement that I saw wash over every face as competitors from either end of the age spectrum crossed the finish line. So people beware, I have living proof that once bitten by the running bug you may be seriously infected for a very, very long time!
PHOTO: Kevin FRY
Running up the hill
Sport
Cricketers slog it out By ZT correspondent
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he fourth annual Slog O ut tou rna ment held in Victoria Falls in August brought in summer and an air of sporting festivity.
Winning team Mountain Goats from Mutare
Five teams were involved: the Casual Mountain Goats from Mutare, arriving with an impressive party of 43; the Harare Hackers; the Kasane Flat Dogs from across the border in Botswana; the Sparta Dolphins from the far side of Namibia, taking nearly two days to get to Victoria Falls, and local team the Matabeleland Warriors.
The matches began with the Matabeleland Warriors arriving in two helicopters, doing their best to intimidate their opponents. The tournament was a round-robin, with a 15 over format to be completed in 40 minutes. Cricketing was of a high standard with excellent fielding all round; Connor Pritchard, Dan Jones and Damien O’Donnell taking some blinding catches.
The teams arrived early in the resort town to enjoy whitewater rafting, a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River above the Falls, and dinner at The Boma.
Each team lost a match and due to their two extra bonus points the Matabeleland Warriors were in the final against the formidable Casual Mountain Goats. The Mutare team found their form and
PHOTO: Graham WILSON
Victoria Falls could do little to stop the onslaught of sixes as they peppered the surrounding buildings.The tournament ended with the Casual Mountain Goats winning convincingly. All enjoyed a well organized tournament and competitive cricket. Awards presented at the gala dinner at Victoria Falls Boat Club went to Cuan Taylor from Mutare for Outstanding Cricketer, Rory Lock of Mutare for Best Bowler and Keith ‘Billy Bob’ Ewing from Kasane for Best Batsman.
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 9
CuLTURE
The BaTonga Impande By Christie Brookstein
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he BaTonga people of Zimbabwe and Zambia are part of the Bantu ethnic group, related to the Tokaleya, and call themselves the Bantu Botat we or ‘three-tribe people,’ with BaTonga also found in Mozambique and Malawi. They are thought to have lived in the region since at least 1100 AD and possibly even since Stone Age times. The word Tonga is derived from a Shona word meaning independent. David Livingstone first met the BaTonga over 140 years ago on his travels to the region and found them to be a culture steeped in ancestral worship and other occult practices. Up until the 1950s they continued to live very separate from the outside world, retaining their traditional values and lifestyle. The construction of the Kariba Dam wall led to more than 57 000 people being relocated, resulting in a severe disruption to their way of life.
PHOTO: JAFUTA HERITAGE CENTRE
The origins of the beautiful impande beads are lost in history, but they are still worn today by the BaTonga and are rich in cultural and mystical significance.
The BaTonga have a rich oral history and many unique customs and beliefs. They traded extensively with Portuguese explorers based in Mozambique, with high value placed upon beads as a form of ethnographic money, exchanged for gold, ivory and other goods. To the local people, the Portuguese traders were known as ‘those who scattered beads among the people in front of palaces.’
a bead especially for trade in this region and as a result, the local BaTonga people have a unique and rare ‘trade bead’ as an integral part of their culture. The half cosmos or impande bead is a three-corned triangular bead, embossed with half circle markings, thought to date back to the early 1600s in origin and produced and traded up to the 1900s.
This demand for beads led the Portuguese to create
Very little is known about the impande beads, as they
are found in such a limited area, and there is speculation as to whether they were made in Venice or possibly in India, Holland or Czechoslovakia. The design is thought to be taken from that of the conus shell ndoro, which was also highly valued in trade. Over time, the impande came to be associated with status and supernatural powers. The BaTonga did not have a formalised chieftain position, but rather lived as family groups, led by spiritual leaders. These leaders were believed to be rainmakers, with a spirituality associated with the moon. It is thought by some scholars that the markings on the impande are linked to the pattern of the TabwaBalamwezi (the rising of the new moon). A traditional rainmaker, Joseph Chooka, said that he wore the impande “so that
people know I am the one who asks for rain in this place, for I have rain spirits.” Traditional healers soaked impande in milk to make eye medications, and historically Tonga women have worn the impande
behind their necks in order to protect their babies. An excellent collection of these rare ndoros and impande is on display at The Jafuta Heritage Centre. The origins of these beautiful
beads are lost in history, but they are still worn today by the BaTonga and used locally by The Ndau Collection in creating one of a kind jewellery – a piece of Africa’s past brought to life.
zambezi victoria falls
10 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Tourism
HAZ reaches for passion and energy By Rose Mukogo
T
he hospitality industry is becoming ‘EDicted’ to the 20th Session of the UNWTO General Assembly which will take place in Livingstone and Victoria Falls in August next year. As part of preparations for exceptional service delivery during the General Assembly, to be co-hosted by Zambia and Zimbabwe, the Hospitality Association of Zimbabwe, through President Tich Hwingwiri, has embarked on various programmes to address the human element, aimed at reaching the men and women who will be at the forefront of providing tourism operations. A scan of developments in the industry in Zimbabwe has revealed that due to the depletion of the skills base over the past few years, this component of the hospitality industry needs to be re-energised, in addition to generating the passion to meet the challenge
Eddy’ making his presentation
of producing a memorable and uniquely African UNWTO General Assembly. These skills also need to be carried on after the event to the long term betterment of the industry. The General Assembly will provide a new lease of life for regional tourism and an opportunity to showcase the potential of the destination,
Participants listen to Eddy’s presentation
and it requires that all players put their best foot forward. To launch its initiative, HAZ organised a motivational seminar which was conducted by South African hospitality guru, Eddy Khosa, introduced as “a tourism industry expert with infectious passion and energy” by Hwingwiri.
Khosa’s message, targeting the mind, spirit and well-being of an individual whose duty is to offer hospitality service of an impeccable quality, was well received and laid a sound foundation for other training programs which HAZ has embarked upon on the road to a successful event.
Violet Rukande, HAZ Administrator, and other participants listen to Eddy’s presentation
Community
Day of 1000 trees at Vic Falls Carnival At Vic Falls Carnival 2012, on the 30th of December we will be planting 1000 trees and inspiring a greener tomorrow. ZT Correspondent It starts with planting one tree
V
ictoria Falls is one of the Seven Wonders of the World and is home to a beautiful world heritage site. Unfortunately, the region has one of the highest deforestation rates on the planet. With your help, we can do something about it! Let’s leave behind a legacy of sustainability, environmental education and give something back to the local and regional community.
Vic Falls Carnival is partnering with Greenpop to make this community project a reality. By gif ting a tree or greening your carnival ticket, you are contributing to the Day of 1000 Trees at Vic Falls Carnival. Your trees will be planted on the 30th of December 2012, and afterwards you will receive a certificate with the GPS coordinates of your tree so you can see exactly where it is growing.
zambezi victoria falls
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 11
ANTI-POACHING
Snared buffalo saved Victoria Falls Anti Poaching Unit, National Parks, Ian Du Preez, the manager of Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve, and Tonya Meikle, who both hold Dangerous Drugs Licenses.
By ZT Correspondent
T
he call came midmorning from A l ison Ba ker of Zambezi Horse Trails. On her morning ride around the Big Tree, Zambezi Drive, she had seen an adult male buffalo with a bad limp. Managing to get closer to the herd she could see an injury caused by a poacher’s wire snare. The darting team was mobilized, comprised of Alison with her horses,
its own body heat and with no shade around, this could endanger the buffalo’s life. In the late afternoon, Alison and Ian approached the herd on horseback and darted the buffalo successfully. Then it
The injured buffalo was relocated about mid-day with the herd lying in the open.
Attending to the wounded Buffalo
PHOTO: Charles Brightman
Ian suggested that the team withdraw and carry out the darting operation in the evening. Once an animal is darted, it loses its ability to control
was thanks to Alison and her horseback skills that Ian, and the team on the ground, were kept safe from the rest of the herd who were restless and keen to protect their buddy.
The snare was deeply embedded close to the hoof and the wound badly infected. The snare, made from copper wire stolen from telephone lines, was removed, the wound cleaned and treated and a long-lasting antibiotic administered. Had this snare not been removed, the Buffalo would have died a slow and painful death from infection. The buffalo rejoined the herd and on follow up observations, was seen to be still limping but in good condition.
Tourism
Safari Club welcomes first guests “We’re open, on time and on budget, not without challenges and some chaos, what an amazing team we have! “ ZT Correspondent
T
hat was the reaction of a delighted Ross Kennedy, Chief Executive of Africa Albida Tourism Group (AAT) when the US2.7m luxury 20-room Victoria Falls Safari Club opened on 15th August. First guests to step through the doors of the sumptuous club were nine Americans, travelling together as two families. And the kudos for having the confidence, and trust in AAT, to book these four rooms on opening day goes to the world-renowned agency A&K.
Ross Kennedy
Sunset from the Club Terrace
welcomed by Victoria Falls Safari Club manager Claire Wright and her enthusiastic team. There was a vivid sunset and buffaloes at the waterhole as they checked-in on the terrace.
years since the opening of our flagship, Victoria Falls Safari Lodge (VFSL).” Said Ross Kennedy.
Twenty-four hours before opening the scene looked like hopeless and hapless chaos…but it was all hands on deck throughout the night and – VOILA! The first guests arrived at 17h45 just as the sun was setting to be
New enquiries and bookings are coming in daily and guests are checking in, so we’re really delighted that people know and trust the hard-earned reputation and pedigree of Africa Albida Tourism, built up over 18
The 72-room Victoria Falls Safari Lodge also opened on time and on budget in December 1994 and achieved a remarkable 72% occupancy in its first year. “In 1996 The Victoria Falls Safari Lodge featured in Vogue magazine in their architectural section,” said
Mr Kennedy. “We’d really like them to come back now to see the deluxe 20-room Club which has moved us on significantly into the world of luxury living and butler-style service. “With such an exclusive new product and Zimbabwe tourism on the rise we aim to emulate VFSL and achieve a very high occupancy for the Club during its first year and to surprise and delight our guests at the same time.”
The Original Patrick Mavros 3~Strand Elephant Hair Bangle i n S t e r l i n g S i l v e r, f o r A d v e n t u r e r s
HASLEMERE LANE, UMWINSIDALE, HARARE TEL: 860131 MOB: 0772 414 414 WWW .PATRICKMAVROS.COM HARARE@PATRICKMAVROS. COM
zambesi-traveller-02-12.indd 1
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zambezi victoria falls
12 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Advertise in the Victoria Falls Classifieds Mel Hudson hudsons@yoafrica.com +263 775 297519 B&B
Charity Events
Hardware Stores
Repairs and Workshops
Sealent Safaris - Specialises in accommodation, Tours, Chobe Trips, Kariba Ferries, Mana Pools. Office No 16, Sopers Arcade. Tel : 013 40237, 0772 279083. Email : cynthia63us@yahoo.com.
Lorries B&B, Victoria Falls. Full English Break-
fast. Ensuite Rooms. Home cooked dinners. Your home away from home. Phone: +263 (0) 13 42139 or +263 (0) 712 406 584. Email: lorrie@mweb.co.zw. 10% discount on production of this advertisement. Find us on facebook.
Once a month a number of Victoria Falls residents put together ‘goodie parcels’ with a few luxuries, mostly necessities for elderly people in the community that are struggling to make ends meet. Anyone wishing to contribute to this can email Cathrina Gover: gover@yoafrica.com and Mel Hudson: hudsons@yoafrica.com
Builders’ Hardware. For all your building material
Amherst Engineering T/A Zambezi Motors - for
Mosi-Ua-Tunya B&B, six en-suite rooms, air
Rotary Club of Victoria Falls meets every
Shearwater Victoria Falls. Experience the Big 5 on Shearwater’s private game reserve, just 12km from Victoria Falls town and enjoy seeing Africa’s rare black rhino. Contact Shearwater Central Reservations P.O. Box 125, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Tel:+263 (0) 13 44471-3, 42058,40056-8 Fax:+263 (0) 13 44341 Cell:+263 (0) 712 406 668, +263 (0) 773 461 716 reservations@shearwatervf.com
conditioned, and additional family accommodation available. Located 603 Mahogany Road. Reservations call: +263 (0) 13 44336, email moslodge@ yoafrica.com, cell +263 (0)772 462 837. Tokkie Lodge, your home from home whilst trav-
elling. Contact +263 (0) 43306 or Manache +263 (0) 0712 207396. Email: reservations@tokkielodge.co.zw
Rotary Club of Hwange, District 9210, meets
Bakery Requisites
vastness of the Victoria Falls and it’s surrounds the best way! Take a helicopter flip and enjoy the magnificent splendour of the Zambezi River and it’s Falls. Contact The Zambezi Helicopter Company, Box 125, Zimbabwe. Tel +263 (0) 13 43569, cell: +263 (0) 773 080 909, +263 (0) 712 324 422. Tel/fax: +263 13 40059. Email: zhc.reservations@highestec.co.zw. Skype: zambezihelicopters Web site: www.zambezihelicopters.com
Bakeries and Hotels - Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls are the Vic Falls distributors for Bakels Zimbabwe. For bulk cocoa powder, icing sugar, cake mix, almond paste, pettinice, cooking chocolate, sesame seeds, baking powder, greaseproof paper, glace cherries, tincol, bread premix, rollex or masterpuff, please phone Neil Norman on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 to request our speciality bakery representative to call upon you to provide advice and suggestions on new products.
Victoria Falls Tourism Police Unit. A donar funded initiative between private and public sector in conjunction with the Zimbabwe Republic Police to ensure a safe environment for visitors and local residents within the Victoria Falls tourism area. Anyone wishing to assist in sponsoring one or more of the dedicated Tourism Police Officers please contact Kevin Fry +263 (0) 772 872646, Cell - 00 27 719794115, Email : fry84@yahoo.co.uk.
Camping Equipment
Cultural Activities
CADAC “Adventure to Go” & Camping Equipment
- Including new stock of Sarfire, Roll-A-Bout and Outdoor Patio gas heaters available at Tradepower Vic Falls - Telephone (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312
Catering Services Delicious Indian Cuisine. Seventh Heaven Foods
Wild Horizons is a “one-stop’ activity provider offering a range of tours and activities including rafting, canoeing, elephant back safaris and high wire activities. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw
Artists & Art Galleries Stone Dynamics Gallery, The Victoria Falls Hotel.
Home to Zimbabwe’s world renowned stone sculptures. For further information contact Stuart Danks, director, email: artafrica@bluewin.ch
(Pvt) Ltd. 523 Reynard Rd, Victoria Falls. Takeaways, catering for functions. Specialises in snacks and Indian dinners. Call Anju and Barry Nathoo on +263 (0) 13 40527/42348. Cell: +263 (0) 712 212 255/+263 (0) 775 121 406. Email: khemhim@yoafrica.com
Cellphones Cell Phones - brand new, guaranteed for one
year: Nokia, Samsung and Motorolla. Genuine handsets at the officially appointed distributor for Victoria Falls at distributor prices. Contact Tradepower, Victoria Falls. Tel: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712587123/0774022312 Email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Convenience Store
The Larry Norton Gallery. Original and repro-
duced fine art wildlife and landscape images available from this renowned artist. Visit this superb gallery in the historical Victoria Falls Hotel. You will find us in the Stables Lounge. Phone: +263 (0) 772 606 233 and +263 (0) 13 40076. Email: info@larrynorton.co.za and website: www.larrynorton.co.za
every Thursday at the Hwange Colliery Company Little Theatre between 1730 and 1900pm. Please call Mugove Hamadziripi, Club President for further details on 0712 263 931 or 0772 428 806. Email: mhamadziripi@gmail.com
The one and only convenience store in Victo-
ria Falls. Open 7 days a week Monday to Saturday 7am to 11pm and Sundays from 7am till 9pm. We will cater for all your food needs during your stay in Vic Falls. Situated in the centre of town opposite the Rest Camp, Shop 6 Parkway Drive, Victoria Falls. Contact us on (013) 43429.
TRADITIONAL LUNCHES Traditional authentic lunches and dinners in the heart of the Victoria Falls community. Call Tsitsi on +263 (0) 776 144 080, Flatter on +263 (0) 712 926 678. Email : muposiwa_tsitsi@yahoo.com
Fishing & Fisherman
vehicle repairs and maintenance, situated behind Avis/Total. Roy: +263 712 747 306, Shayle: +263 772 284 689.
Hardware Zone, Victoria Falls for all your electrical, plumbing, painting and building requirements. Phone +263 (0) 13 42202, cell +263 (0)773 255 788, Email - sue.chouhan92@yahoo.com. 426 Pioneer Road, Industrial Area
Screen Printing
Hotels & Lodges
ments, T/shirts, Banners, Posters etc. Call Zenzo + 263 775 728342 / + 263 712 614244. Email screenworksvicfalls@yahoo.com. 16 Sopers Arcade, Victoria Falls.
Elephant Camp. The Elephant Camp is a luxury
Services
and intimate lodge under canvas only 10 minutes from Victoria Falls and all it’s attractions and activities, yet secluded in it’s own private game reserve so as to allow close up encounters with wildlife. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge. Located
in the Matetsi Safari Area with 14km of Zambezi river frontage Imbabala is renowned for it’s game viewing and bird watching Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571,44426. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw. www.wildhorizons.co.za The Victoria Falls Hotel. ***** Situated on a world heritage site, the legendary Victoria Falls Hotel overlooks the magnificent falls. This gracious 1904 hotel is set in lush tropical gardens that recall the romance of days gone by. Contact Sales and Marketing Manager. Email: marketing@tvfh.africansun. co.zw. Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44751/9
Ice Sales Ice always available at Tradepower Whole-
sale Victoria Falls - 7kg bag for $2-20. Tel: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312. Please visit our modern wholesale warehouse, where service to you will be a pleasure.
Spotless Laundry Services at Victoria Falls Rest-
camp, Lodge 17. Open daily. Contact +262 (0) 40509-11 or +263 (0)772 347687
Food Agencies
Locksmith
Victoria Foods – Tradepower Wholesale Victoria
Victoria Falls Locksmiths - Providers of 24hr
Falls is the official distributor for Victoria Foods in the Falls and surrounding area. For quality flour, rice, mealie meal, snacks, salt and sugar beans, please visit our modern warehouse located on Mile Road, opposite Marange Motors. Tel: (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Forklift to take a weight off your shoulders. Trade-
Packaged Snacks
Zambezi Trader Fresh fruit and Vegetable stocked daily 283 Holland Road, Industrial Area +263 13 42237/44008/9 +263 772399779 +263773462343
Hairdressing Salon Victoria Falls Hair Salon - We do all types of
hairdo’s, manicures and pedicures. 307 Parkway Drive. Tel + 263 13 40981, Cell + 263 712 716 930
Restaurants
Thatching Grass Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek
Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell: +263 (0) 777 560 856 or landline +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: derekdianawilk@mango.zw or contact local agent, John Dewdney +263 (0) 13 44645 or +263 (0)775901534 website: http..// thatchinggrasssuppliers.webs.com
Upholstery EN C ID
VICTORIA FALLS
VICTORIA FALLS
Widency - For all your canvas and tarpaulin prod-
ucts, game drive vehicle seats and canopies, boats, blinds. Office and household furniture contact Hudson on 0773 000888/9. Located 299 Rumsey Road, Vic Falls.
In-da-Belly Bar and Cafe. Located within the Victoria Falls Rest Camp on Parkway Drive. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Good food, great value, superb atmosphere. Tel : +263 13 40501/11. Email: indabelly@restcamp.co.zw The Victoria Falls Hotel : Stanley’s Terrace,
cosmopolitan lunch The Victoria Falls Hotel: Livingstone Room, fine
dining with a 7 course menu. national buffet and African Spectacular show. For bookings, contact +263 (0) 44751/9, email : marketing@tvfh.africansun.co.zw.
Restcamps
Wholesale Liquor Sales Tradepower Victoria Falls are the agents and distributors for a wide range of liquor brands. Swaartland Wines are our speciality, including all famous liquor labels. Also a full range of canned soft drinks and mixers always available at genuine wholesale prices. Contact Neil on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312.
Wholesale Poultry Chicken – Zimbabwean bred FAIRHILL chickens are outstanding in quality and value. Whole birds, breasts, thighs, drumsticks, wings or in mixed portions. Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls. Contact Neil on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312. Our modern freezing facilties ensure absolute freshness always.
Meat Sales
Forklift
Fresh Produce
design and construction, projects for homes, lodges and hotels. External and interior designs conceptualized. Renovations undertaken. Phone - Sara Norton + 263 772 606233 or +263 13 44074. Email - snorton@yoafrica.com
away trays, foam cups, plastic cutlery, cake domes, butchery machine blades, chip fryers, digital scales readily available at Tradepower’s Victoria Falls wholesale warehouse. Telephone (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312. Email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
key cutting and lock-out services. Tel : Levi on 013 44526, Cell 0778 132 220 or 0712 764 486 Email : locksmithsvf@gmail.com
Lamb cuts - “Super” lamb cuts in stock. Contact Tradepower, Victoria Falls. Telephone (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312
power Wholesale Victoria Falls has a 3 tonne forklift for hire at an hourly rate. Please phone Neil on (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312. Please visit our modern wholesale warehouse, where service to you will be a privilege.
The Project Management co - Coordinators of
The Victoria Falls Hotel: Jungle Junction, inter-
Laundry Service
Fishermen flystreamers for sale, rods repaired.
Call Tim +263 (0) 712 208 374
Screenworks - For all your screen printing require-
Spices, condiment sachets, disposable take-
Y
The Zambezi Helicopter Company. View the
Thursday at Ilala Lodge between 1:00pm and 2:00pm. For further information please contact our club President Joshua Ncube +263712207368/+263773166660 or our Immediate Past President Anne Taggart on +263 (0)772 254552 or our club secretary Barbara on +263 (0)773 228084
visit Builders’ Hardware, Old PG/Johnson & Fletcher building, Orders done to your specification. Contact Thandi 0772 347687/ Itai 0712 597465
Takeaway and Café Consumables
W
Activities
Montagu Mixed Nuts & Fruits – Our range of
superb nuts, dried fruits and snack mixes are always fresh and available at Tradepower Victoria Falls. 100g and 200g packs. Display stands and in-store advertising available for retail stockists. Call us on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 for our representative to visit you. Trekkers Biltong – Outstanding quality chilli or
plain flavoured beef snapsticks in 35g, 75g and 150g and distributed by Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls. Please contact Neil Norman on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 for us to visit your establishment with advice and details of wholesale pricing including stands and in-store advertising which are available to boost your sales.
Pharmacies Victoria Falls Pharmacy shop No.3 Phumula
Centre, close to Chicken Inn complex. Tel +263 (0) 13 44403, after hours cell: +263 (0) 712 4051269/+263 (0) 712 405 270.
Victoria Falls Restcamp. Situated in the town centre offers affordable, safe accommodation. Includes self catering lodges, chalets, dormitories, semi luxury tents and camping. Along with a tours & internet desk & In-da-Belly Restaurant. Tel: + 263 13 40509 - 11. Email: reservations@restcamp.co.zw
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Specialist Guide Game Drives
Discover Safaris Charles Brightman P O Box CT
Bird Watching safaris
544 Victoria Falls Zimbabwe, Tel/Fax + 263 13 45821, Cell + 263 712 209144 or + 263 917 747 426, Skype : charlesbrightman, Specialising in walking safaris, game drives, bird watching trips and tailor made safaris. Finalist in the Safari Awards Category. Best Personal Contribution to Wildlife Conservation, www.safariawards.com/winners11
wildlife experience...
Swimming Pool Chemicals & Products
Email: cat@yoafrica.com
Walking Safaris Special interest Safaris & more...
Contact us for your Tel/fax: 013 45821 Cell: 0712 209 144
Tradepower Victoria Falls have a wide range of
hoses, leaf scoops and brushes. We are the agents for Blu52 chemicals and Eezi Pool acid, test kits, chlorine floaters and chlorine. Contact Neil Norman: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712587123/0774022312
Importers and distributors of quality frozen, chilled and dry food products including seafood, game meat, cold meats, poultry, fruit, vegetables, pastries, dairy, braai sauces and oils. Serving the wholesale, retail and food service industries nationwide. DISTRIBUTORS OF: HARARE Vicky Bowen: bowen@zol.co.zw, +263 772 225 413, skype: bowen.vicky Brigid Hook: marketing.seapride@googlemail.com, +263 772 264 773, skype: brigid.hook Koala Park, Seke Road, Harare, Zimbabwe
BULAWAYO Gayle Bragge: seapridebyo@gmail.com, +263 772 236 400, skype: gayle.bragge 31 Asbestos Road, Kelvin North, Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
Bulawayo
13
on your way to the Zambezi
Forestry
Firewood controls considered By Christopher Scott
A
new bill aimed at protecting Zimbabwe’s natural timber resources has been tabled by the Minister of Environment and Natural Resources Management. The Firewood, Timber and Forest Produce Controls (SI 116/2012) has been designed to protect indigenous trees through the regulation of the use of wood for flue-curing tobacco as well as general purpose firewood. The use of Msasa, Munondo and Mopane for flue curing tobacco will be prohibited except under stringent
conditions while licenses will be required from the regulatory body, the Forestry Commission, for the sale of firewood and transportation of more than half a cubic meter of firewood.
Criminal penalties and fines will be levied against offenders found breaking the regulations, including the impounding of vehicles used to transport firewood. The regulations will be enforced by Forestry Commission officers and the Police while Forestry Commission and Rural District Council officers will be tasked with monitoring the implementation of the regulations on the ground.
“The new regulations will have the effect of reducing the rate of deforestation in Zimbabwe particularly in tobacco growing and peri-urban areas,” said the general manager of the Forestry Commission, Darlington Duwa. Zimbabwe is considered to be in the top ten countries in the world most affected by deforestation with an average annual decline in forest cover of +1.4% or 313,000 hectares in the period 1990-2005. The estimated total deforestation for the entire period is 21% or 4.6 million hectares of the country’s forests lost to fire or illegal wood cutting.
Tiger time ahead!
Sport
400 kms in 3 days – for Hwange’s wildlife
17 - 19 October
Cycling a total of 400 km in three days, Rodney Spencer set out on his second Pumping Legs for Water event with the aim of breaking the it h s p on s or- record for the most money raised by an individual.
Mana Meadows
W
ZT: Why do the ride? RS: To raise money for WEZ’s game water supply programme which supports the repair and maintenance of boreholes, within Hwange. Last year I did the Pumping Legs for Water ride and after seeing how appreciative the people involved in the project were, I decided I would like to try to break the record for the most money raised by an individual. What better way to do this than to ride from Bulawayo to Hwange?
Photos : Kerry Spencer
sh ip supp or t f rom f r iend s and family, the Kezi-based marketer has to date, raised an impressive R30 000 with donations still coming in. Kezi is on the outskirts of Bulawayo
The 100km to go mark, feeling strong and looking forward to the next 200km
ZT: What were the highlights? RS: I loved every minute of it! It was well organised and there was a friendly bunch of riders and organizers. I was just sad that there wasn’t a day three! On the ride from Bulawayo, a big highlight was all the support from the guys driving past who would drive up next to me in their vehicles for
Visit www.kitft.co.zw for more information
Rodney and Brad van de walt riding together at the finish of the first day of the official pumping legs for water.
a chat and give me some words of encouragement. I cycled 300 km on the Friday, starting at 4:00 am and finishing at 5:30 pm and then did Pumping Legs for Water the next day. Another highlight was the welcome I received when I rode into Main Camp. The best moments within the park, I would say were riding past a herd of elephants, and then being greeted by a herd of roan antelope at Ngweshla as we
finished day one. Hwange has a beauty and atmosphere unlike any park I’ve been to. ZT: Any close shaves with wildlife? RS: No, well at least I don’t think so. If you asked my brother-in-law, who I was riding with, he might say he felt a little nervous riding past some of the elephants!
The ZAmbezi traveller Now on the
iPad
Trophy Consultants International (TCI) boasts over 35 years of inherited wildlife artistry experience; prides itself in life form reproduction and understands that preserving the memories of your hunt is paramount to its overall success. We have tailored our service to ensure we offer the best possible solution for you as the hunter and have therefore developed Zimbabwe’s one and only ONE STOP SHOP, offering a full range of services to meet the hunter’s individual needs. Leather Products Trophy Exports Dip & Pack Taxidermy Curios
Our services • Meredith & Meredith, the leather brand of TCI – a collection of products hand crafted from the finest tanned leather in Zimbabwe • A showroom exhibiting our life size mounts, Meredith & Meredith leather products and various African carvings, curios and paintings • Maple Freight, TCI’s sister company, will freight your trophies with a commitment to customised service and an understanding of the Hunting Industry. 4 Josiah Chinamano Road, Belmont, Bulawayo, Zimbabwe Tel: 263 9 73983 / 74356 / 73655 / 73593 / 73581 Fax: 263 9 75513 Email: clientliaison@tci.co.czw / shop@tci.co.zw
www.tci.co.zw
Hwange
14
on your way to the Zambezi
Wildlife
Elephant drama in Hwange With the rains this year being less than adequate in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National park, wildlife drama around its essential water holes, or pans as they are known, is guaranteed.
By Michael Haines Safari & Company, Toronto, Canada
I
n late June I witnessed an extraordinary incident. Staying at African Bush Camp’s Somalisa Camp, and shortly into an afternoon game drive, we arrived at a typical Hwange dry season waterhole scene. Several herds of elephants were jostling for precious water and beyond the waterhole two male elephants were facing up to each other and trading minor blows. The joust did not initially appear serious and the bulls drifted off after a couple of minutes. We also left the fairly tranquil scene. A few minutes down the road, we noticed a large elephant that appeared to be lying down, though we soon realized he was actually injured. A young bull standing nearby suddenly charged the stricken bull and pummelled him, driving his short tusks into the head and body. This scenario continued for about ten minutes, with the commotion attracting the attention
walked away. We were speechless, and the fallen elephant motionless. After a few minutes, our professional guide decided he would walk over and
take a look. He approached carefully, though soon realized the elephant was dead, with a large tusk wound through the roof of its mouth. We discussed how to interpret what we had witnessed; what had driven the youngster to such aggressive behaviour? Was the executioner bull killing out of mercy? Probably not, and I suspect this incident has more to do with dry season stress and no quarter given for the weak. It was a riveting spectacle that underlines the adage that you never know what you will witness on safari.
PHOTO: MICHAEL HAINES
Bull elephants fighting
of two herds of females and young. Time and again the injured bull attempted to rise, only to be attacked by the youngster. Twenty or more other elephants milled about and added to the drama with much rumbling and youngsters squealing.
It was clear that the bull was wounded and his death was inevitable, though it was likely to be protracted. As we contemplated the inevitable, a huge bull elephant approached. With his head held high and ears flared to increase the appearance of
his already impressive size, he dispatched the young assailant with merely a look and he had the scene to himself. He stood over the elephant on the ground and quite suddenly drove his large tusks into its head, once. He paused for several seconds and then
+263 9 234307 +263 772126 986 info@africanbushcamps.com www.africanbushcamps.com
welcome to an
experience of a lifetime hwange national park
Deep in the heart of Hwange National Park, on a large private Concession, lies an age old natural seep, home to abundant wildlife. Enjoy the tranquility of an un-spoilt wilderness. Over 400 different species of birds. Hwange, known as The Land of the Giants is well known for its elephant sightings. Be thrilled with amazing sightings of these majestic creatures on their home turf. Nehimba a safari experience like no other. Accommodation is luxurious, the wildlife spectacular, the hospitality welcoming. You will want to come back.
GPS Coordinates 18 54 08 70 S 26 25 39 65 E Email: admin@nehimba.com www.nehimba.com
zambezi hwange
Zambezi Traveller
Rare Species
The guide’s Holy Grail
Travellers Friend 15
SPORT
Cycling to save wildlife
The ‘big five’ take a back seat when this little fellow steals the limelight! that I had waited my entire guiding career to see. To me and many others this is the Holy Grail of guiding.
By Julian Brookstein
E
ver y now and then, guides get a day to remember for a lifetime. On a recent full day safari from Camp Hwange, I was driving some guests to Detema dam for game viewing. We rounded a bend to see an elephant bull walking down the road towards us. I stopped and turned off to watch him approach. I soon noticed he had a particular look to his walk and an exaggerated flick of his ears. Closer inspection through the binos confirmed my suspicion that he was in musth. I pulled the vehicle off to the side of the road to get out of his way, and told my guests to keep quiet and still as he came closer.
The elusive pangolin
He walked next to the vehicle and then stopped and turned to face us, metres away. We all sat quietly; he was not aggressive, but sure of himself and of his dominant size compared to us. This lasted for a few minutes before I felt a tap on my shoulder and one of my guests asked “What is that?” pointing down the road.
PHOTO: JULIAN BROOKSTEIN
I turned and saw a pangolin halfway across the road. I started the vehicle and raced down the road to where it was, leaving the elephant in the dust. Before the vehicle had come to a complete halt I had already jumped out and was on my knees staring at the animal
We then spent the next forty minutes just watching this amazing creature. We backed off, hoping to see it walk again, which it did, but went straight between two nearby logs. We now had a good view of its head, albeit we were lying on our stomachs and peering under one of the logs. At first my guests did not understand why I was so excited. By the end of the forty minutes it had fully dawned on them that this was a once in a lifetime sighting. Well, for myself I hope to find the Grail again.
Anniversary
The Hide marks 20 years By ZT correspondent
C
e l e b r a t i n g it ’s t w e nt i e t h a n n iversar y this year, The Hide Safari Camp has opened ‘Tom’s Safari House,’ a gem of an accommodation option at the bushveld haven in Hwange. ‘Beauty without borders’ is the apt motto of The Hide. A passion for nature runs in the camp owners’ b l o o d l i n e . C o - ow n e r Gavin Rennie talks proudly of what makes Tom’s Safari House unique; it was named in honour of the late Tom Preston, a business visionary and conservationist.
“Tom built and opened The Hide in 1992, but only got to enjoy this superb camp for three years before he prematurely passed away,” said Rennie. The Preston family are still personally involved in The Hide, with Angus and Lorraine Preston flying the family flag along with Rennie. The new development is spacious, comfortable, and its style can be described as bushveld elegant. Guest staying at Tom’s Safari House enjoy a private guide and dedicated vehicle. “It’s luxurious and yet not over the top,” said Rennie.
By Mana Meadows If you’re a cyclist with a love for wilderness, the annual Pumping Legs for Water event in Hwange National Park should definitely make your bucket list. This year 82 riders participated, seizing the opportunity to cycle in Zimbabwe’s largest and oldest National Park and at the same time raise funds to help manage the park’s precious water supplies. The event was established in 2008 and is organised by Wildlife & Environment Zimbabwe (WEZ) Matabeleland Branch to raise funds for WEZ projects; specifically the Hwange Game Water Supplies Programme which is run jointly by the Parks & Wildlife Management Authority, WEZ and the Friends of Hwange Trust. Adele Edwards, secretary of the Ride Organising Committee said that this year there was a record number of riders with a record amount of money raised (which is still being tallied). “Roddy Spencer’s ride from Bulawayo to Main Camp the day before the event was special – and the fact that he then got back in the saddle at seven the next morning and rode another 100 kms over the next two days was quite amazing,” Edwards said.
The Safari house
“It’s private and exclusive. It has a plush feel about it with very large gauze windows so you are close to the bush. It’s set in a great location with superb views over the waterhole and ancient elephant paths close by.”
NEW
Pumping legs for water
PHOTO: KAREN WESSELS
“Weather conditions were good and there was plenty of game around. Lots of riders went out of their way to come forward and say how much they enjoyed the event. All the groups encountered some game while riding, listing steenbok, kudu, zebra, sable and elephant. During game drives after the rides, lions were seen near Nyamandlovu and Makwa.” “The event always seems to generate a strong camaraderie, with people arriving as strangers and leaving as friends. Participants enjoy themselves as well as making a positive contribution to Hwange.” The event aims to encourage visitors to the park and an appreciation of all that it has to offer. The park also benefits from having a full Main Camp for three days. A total distance of just over 100 kms is covered during the two days. Day one sees riders cycle to Ngweshla picnic site from Main Camp via Makwa, Kennedy I and II. On day two cyclists follow a circular route, starting and ending at Main Camp, via Balabala, Dopi and Caterpillar, a distance of 46 kms. Cyclists ride in four separate groups with an escort vehicle behind and in front of the group. www.facebook.com/PLFWZ
reservations@thehide.co.zw; http://www.facebook.com/ pages/The-Hide-ZimbabweSafari-Lodge www.thehide.com;
Tom’s Safari House
the complete safari
“Tom’s Safari House at The Hide” Only 30 m from the elevated deck of your luxury tent or rustic tree-house you will enjoy wonderful close-up viewing of our regular wild visitors. Miombo Safari Camp is an absolute gem on the edge of Hwange National Park, delivering a home from home experience with easy access, caring professional staff, peaceful ambiance and exceptional game viewing opportunities.
available for exclusive bookings upto 8 guests, children of any age welcome. In Celebrating 20 years of Safari Excellence. Tel: (263-4) 498835/6 Email: reservations@thehide.co.zw www.thehide.com
CONTACT US FOR RATES AND AVAILABILITY Reservations office: +26 3 13 45532/45986, Mobile: +26 3 (0) 778173398 or (0)774671366 Email: miombo@mweb.co.za www.miombosafaricamp.com
Miombo Is Situated On The Boundary Of The Park 15 Minutes Drive From Main Camp
10% off your next stay with us at The Hide. Offer valid 1 June - 30 July 2012, 16 Oct - 15 Dec 2012. Quote: ZamTrav12 - Terms and Conditions apply.
Deep within Northern Hwange National Park
Classic Safari Camp, 8 rooms with en suite facilities Game Drives Walking Safaris Night Drives Birding Private waterhole with log hide
An unforgettable encounter with wild Africa
www.camphwange.com info@camphwange.com
Kafue
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on your way to the Zambezi
Conservation
Cheetah: the final frontier? With more than one third of its landmass set aside for wildlife, Zambia is the forgotten country for cheetah conservation, but it is finally gaining attention.
By Dr Matthew Becker
T
he massive wilderness of the Kafue ecosystem and endless expanse of western Zambia’s Liuwa Plain both hold significant numbers of cheetah; however virtually nothing is known about their abundance, distribution, and the factors and threats facing them. No research and monitoring programmes have been conducted here; but information is critical to effectively managing and conserving cheetah. Currently the non-profit Zambian registered trust, the Zambian Carnivore Programme, in collaboration with the country’s managing authority, the Zambia Wildlife Authority, and African Parks Network, have initiated intensive studies of cheetah in both the Kafue and Liuwa Plain in an effort to better understand the dynamics of these cats. In addition to the fact that these areas hold Zambia’s major cheetah populations, the country’s potential for transboundary conservation is perhaps equally important, given that Liuwa Plain borders Angola and is part of the Liuwa-Mussuma Transfrontier Conservation Area. Similarly Kafue comprises a significant portion of the Kavango-Zambezi TFCA with potential links to populations in multiple KAZA countries.
At approximately 22,000 km2, Kafue holds the potential to be home to the largest remaining cheetah population in the region, given its size and the frequency with which cheetah are sighted there. Nevertheless, similar to other Zambian carnivore species, cheetah are threatened by a number of factors in both ecosystems, including habitat loss, prey depletion, disease, and wire snare mortality. In an effort to understand and elucidate the factors impacting cheetah, ongoing ZCP work includes intensive studies of individuals, large scale abundance and distribution surveys, ongoing work on competing carnivore species and predator-prey dynamics,risk-mappingandantisnaring work. In addition to research and immediate applied conservation activities, ZCP invests heavily in training, employing and educating Zambian wildlife professionals and currently supports two ZAWA graduate students at U.S. institutions; these students’ work focuses in part on cheetah in both Kafue and Liuwa. In concert, these efforts will hopefully improve the prospects for Zambia to serve as one of the main cheetah strongholds in the region.
FACT FILE
Male cheetah
PHOTOS: JassIel M’soka
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Kafue National Park Found in the centre of western Zambia Largest and oldest national park in Zambia, 22,400 kmsq Second largest park in Africa
NEW
Discover The Kafue River By Canoe
One to 4 days canoeing, day trips Tel: +263 4 861286 e-mail: info@mawimbi-adventure.com
PHOTO: MAWIMBI
Kafue River
Home to over 55 different species of animals Established as a national park in the 1950’s by Norman Carr
The park is named for the Kafue River which divides the park roughly in half, creating a north and south. The Kafue River is a major tributary of the Zambezi Main vegetation is Miombo Woodland Southern entrance 2 hours drive from Livingstone
Luangwa
17
on your way to the Zambezi
TRAVEL
Development
My ‘bucket list’ Lions, leopards and dogs of safaris By Daphne Lindsay
Victoria Falls To stand and experience the mighty Zambezi River thundering over a vertical drop into a chasm below is something one can never get tired of. Whether standing getting drenched at the height of the Falls during April / May or swimming on the edge of the Falls at the Devils Pool during the dry season of October/ November, it always has a spectacular magic. If you want an adrenaline burst, try white-water rafting, bungee jumping or kayaking, or go on a wildlife safari or catch your first tiger fish – all this and plenty more could happen with a visit to Victoria Falls or Livingstone. This is said to be the Adventure Capital of the world, catering for all; with great lodges and hotels in both Zambia and Zimbabwe. Walking in South Luangwa National Park Definitely one of my personal favourite parks in Africa, Luangwa is known for its walking safaris and small personalised bush camps. It’s a great park for cats especially leopard, and is home to endemic species such as Cooksons wildebeest, Crawshay zebra and Thornicrofts giraffe, and has the highest concentration of hippo in Africa.
Mana Pools National Park Situated in northern Zimbabwe, in the lower Zambezi valley, ‘magical’ is the word that springs to mind. Mana means four in Shona, a reference to the four large, permanent pools formed by the flooding and meandering of the Zambezi River. Over 2000 square kilometres of river frontage, islands, sand banks and pools forms home to some magnificent large elephant bulls who return year after year, to eat the pods from the albida trees. The area has amazing groves of ebony, mahogany, fig and albida, plus more than 380 species of birds. Liuwa Plains This remote wild park, situated in the north western part of Zambia, is known as Barotseland. It is home to more than 45 000 wildebeest which
A personal opinion of the premier locations on and around the Zambezi – although the pages of our journal show that there are many more.
migrate between Liuwa and Angola. It is home to hyaena, cheetah and wild dog. Lion have just been reintroduced to join the amazing lioness, who has survived regardless of the many years on her own. Birdlife is excellent. Robin Pope runs an excellent mobile camping trip each year; African Parks have also provided good campsites. Lower Zambezi National Park Even those who have never fished before will find it thrilling to catch their first tiger fish. It is well worth a visit to one of the lodges in the Lower Zambezi National Park which are geared to take clients fishing.
Leorpard cubs
PHOTO: Rocky Simachila
By ZT correspondent
I
t’s been a carnivore carnival in the first season of newly built TenaTena Camp, operated by Robin Pope Safaris in South Luangwa. Lions and leopards are seemingly everywhere, and love is evidently in the air, with mating cats being spotted regularly, likely to result in a fresh crop of cubs down the line.
The camp caterer was unable to leave her room one morning as a male lion snoozed on her front porch - only in the Luangwa Valley can you blame a lion for making you late for work! The Zambian Carnivore Project team recently had an unexpected guest. A curious young female leopard sauntered around camp, while the team looked on in awe. ZCP
are based at Nkwali and have been busy with the annual Carnivore Week, where guests experience conservation first hand as part of the ZCP team, including tracking the large predators. Wild dogs have also been in evidence, with a pack of 15 working the Park near TenaTena recently.
Horseback in the Okavango Delta Nothing is more thrilling than galloping through the swamps or next to a herd of giraffe or zebra; or watching a herd of elephant swimming in a pan whilst you are sitting on horseback. African Horse Back Safaris, in Botswana are definitely worth considering.
www.zamagsafaris.com +260 977 618 194 info@zamagsafaris.com
we take you places we know and trust
18 Travellers Friend
zambezi luangwa
Zambezi Traveller
Conservation
The Elephant Charge 2012
RefReshing the nation’s thiRst a big nation has a big thirst. it takes a lager that has been born and brewed in Zambia to satisfy that thirst. a lager that reflects the character of a progressive, friendly and proud nation. a nation that moves ever forward but never forgets its roots. Mosi is the light drinking, passionately brewed and internationally awarded lager that delivers that refreshing and satisfying taste. that taste that is as truly Zambian as the people who enjoy it!
By ZT correspondent
Established in 2008 and inspired by Kenya’s Rhino Charge, the Elephant Charge is an annual offroad motorsport challenge held in the Zambian bush to raise money for conservation and wildlife education. The event for cars and motorbikes demands a team effort of stamina combined with driving and navigation skills. Teams of cars and motorbikes are challenged to complete a gruelling course at a secretly guarded location, three to four hours from Lusaka in the Zambian bush. The winning team completes a course of nine checkpoints in the shortest distance possible. Each team must find their own route between the checkpoints through valleys, over ridges and up escarpments.
Teams must designate a navigator who is issued with maps and checkpoint cards before the race. The designated driver is responsible for all the driving during the Charge - and all of the blame afterwards, while the rest of the team are runners. The runners scout through the bush for the shortest route that can be taken but which gets the team to the finish in one piece. Elephant Charge 2012 will take place on Zambia’s Independence weekend. Registration will take place on Thursday 25 October in Lusaka, scrutineering on Friday 26 October, and the event occurs Saturday 27 October at a location to be revealed to competitors at registration. Entries will be limited to 30 car teams and five bike
teams and will be filled on a first-come first-served basis. Each entry must be accompanied by a minimum pledge for sponsorship of K3 million. All the money raised through sponsorship will be given to the Elephant Charge charities which include Conservation Lower Zambezi, South Luangwa Conservation Society, Children in the Wilderness, Kasanka National Park, Chipembele Wildlife Education Trust and Project Luangwa, amongst others. An entry fee of K2 million must also be paid by each team, used by the organisers to arrange the event. The final day for new entries is 1 September. Find out more at www.elephantcharge.org Visit www.elephantcharge.org
Sanctuary team
Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age 18. MOSI AD - 35cm x 12.8cm .indd 1
6/1/12 11:41 AM
Dirt Bike
Shaun’s team
Zambezi News
livingstone TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
19
Conservation
A new park is born By Alan Sparrow
T
he Ngonye Falls, 330 kilometres up river from Livingstone, provided a spectacular backdrop in August for a key regional event - the official opening of the new Ngonye Falls Community Partnership Park. The Zambian Minister of Tourism and Arts, Sylvia T. Masebo MP, was the key speaker at the event. The park is jointly owned by the traditional leadership, the local community and Zambia Wildlife Authority. The Minister also commissioned the new SiomaNgwezi National Park headquarters to be built at Ngonye Falls. In a festive occasion attended by key players including community leaders, members of parliament, donor representatives and the supporting conservation agencies, cultural dance groups provided plenty of sound and colour. Tom Varley and Brian Ashby captured the moment as a truck-load of impala was released into the new park. The Minister paid tribute to the development partners who have supported the Ngonye Falls project. The new ‘Visitors’ Information Centre’ was funded by the Netherlands
Main Picture: Ngonye Falls National Park, Inset: The Zambian Minister of Tourism and Arts, Sylvia T. Masebo MP, was the key speaker
The Ngonye Falls provided a spectacular backdrop in August for a key regional event - the official opening of the new Ngonye Falls Community Partnership Park.
THRILLS AT EVERY TURN. www.suninternational.com
Ministry of Foreign Affairs (DGIS). Special thanks went to the Federal Republic of Germany, through KfW, for funding the operations within the park for the last two years, the training of staff, the acquisition of 4x4 vehicles and a new tractor. The construction of the new SiomaNgwezi Park headquarters was funded by the Federal Republic of Germany, through KfW. The Peace Parks Foundation has provided technical
support to the SiomaNgwezi for the last four years. The Alternative Livelihood Programme (WWF Zambia) was funded by WWF Germany and the Netherlands. The total investment into the Kaza TFCA by all development partners to date amounts to over Kwacha 2.2 Billion (approx US$440 000.00) The Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area could be Africa’s last real chance for conservation
PHOTO: Tom Varley
on an international scale. The support of the international community through donors and NGO’s is making a reality out of the concept of creating space for wildlife across borders. KfW banking group is a German government-owned development bank, based in Frankfurt <http:// en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frankfurt> . Its name originally comes from Kreditanstalt für Wiederaufbau, meaning Reconstruction CreditInstitute.
zambezi livingstone
20 Travellers Friend Sport
A year of free flying!
P
offer when the Chipolopolo team got through to the quarter finals of the tournament, promising a year’s worth of free flights if the national side came home with the trophy.
Zambia’s only scheduled domestic airline made the
A symbolic boarding pass was presented to the team at the Football Association of Zambia headquarters in Lusaka in August. The free tickets will be valid for any Proflight Zambia sched-
ZT Correspondent
rof light Zambia has honoured its pledge to the Chipolopolo nat iona l footba l l tea m b y a w a r d i n g a y e a r ’s worth of free scheduled air tickets to each of the players on the winning team at the AfCON 2012 final.
ule flight to any one of nine destinations: Lusaka, Livingstone, Mfuwe, Lower Zambezi, Ndola, Solwezi, Chipata, Mansa and Kasama. “The Chipolopolo team took Zambia to new heights when they won the AfCON Cup. We offer a token of our thanks and recognition on behalf of the whole country,” said Proflight Zambia commercial director Keira Irwin.
Proflight Zambia was established in 1991 and operates two 29-seater Jetstream 41 aircraft; three 18-seater Jetstream 32’s; two 12-seater Caravan C208; nine-seater Britten Norman Islander; seven-seater Cessna C401/ C402; and two five-seater Beech Baron.
Zambezi Traveller
History
The origin of Sunday school The life and times of David Livingstone – the Sunday schoolboy
Visit www.flyzambia.com info@langmead.com
History
Livingstone – the training Part II of a six part series marking the bicentennial of the birth of David Livingstone – we look at the childhood which moulded the man. By Russell Gammon
T
he story of David Livingstone’s childhood unfolds against the grim backdrop of the Industrial Revolution. He was born in poverty and obscurity in a Glasgow slum called Blantyre on 19 March, 1813. The seven members of the Livingstone family lived in a single room that measured just 12 feet x 14 feet. In order to make ends meet, it was normal for the working classes to enroll their children in factories from a very young age.
At the age of ten, young David was sent to work in the local mill, working a 12-hour shift, six days of the week under brutal conditions. Most of the children working in these factories were not getting an education and the Scottish church decided to address this by offering classes in reading, writing and arithmetic for five hours on Sunday. This was the origin of ‘Sunday School’ and was where young David would get most of his formal education. So determined was he to educate himself that he took his books to work, propping them up on the frame of the spinning
Russell Gammon Safaris Bespoke Guiding and Keynote Speaking service for visiting conference and incentive, special interest, VIP and series tour groups. Victoria Falls Livingstone Chobe email: info@russellgammon.com www.russellgammon.com
His chosen field of study was medicine because he planned to become an overseas missionary; he attended Anderson College, which is today the University of Glasgow, and qualified, in due course, as a medical doctor. jenny where he was working so he could continue his studies during his back-breaking 12-hour shift. We can only marvel his single-mindedness, that in the bedlam
of that factory, this rather extraordinary child is teaching himself… Latin! By the age of 19 he was richly rewarded for his dedication as he qualified to go to university. He was subsequently recruited by the London Missionary Society, trained further as a missionary and was dispatched to Africa’s shores. He arrived in Algoa Bay, the modern day Port Elizabeth, in 1841, from where he journeyed overland to Kuruman. After the years of hard labour of his youth and the strict routine of study, we can imagine that the freedom of travel in Africa on that journey would be intoxicating. I cannot help but think that the excitement and sense of freedom on that first journey planted seed, that in time, would flourish and drive him to become one of the greatest travellers the world has ever seen; but all that lay sometime in the future for first he had to prove his mettle as a missionary.
Robert Raikes
By Russell Gammon
T
he idea of providing free schooling for working class children is attributed to Robert Raikes, editor of the Gloucester Journal, who saw it as a way of preventing working class children from turning to a life of crime. In 18th century industrial Britain, education was largely a privilege reserved for the children of the upper class.They would be taught by a private tutor at home and later sent to boarding school with other children which explains why these institutions became known, rather confusingly, as ‘public’ schools. The townbased middle class had the option of grammar school for their children, but children of factory workers were enrolled to work alongside their parents and most would get little or no formal education.
In 1781, Raikes was so moved by their plight that he started his first school for the children of the chimney sweeps who lived in Sooty Alley, teaching them to read and write using the Bible as his text book. He publicised this idea through the Gloucester Journal and the idea caught on. Within four years over 250,000 children were attending schools on Sunday throughout England, and by 1831 it was reported that attendance at ‘Sunday schools’ had grown to over 1.2 million working class children. Raikes’ school is seen as the starting point of the modern education system in Britain and his egalitarian vision was embraced by the Scottish University system. This resulted in the education of a generation of thinkers that included the likes of David Livingstone but also some of the great innovators of history - James Watt (steam engine), Alexander Fleming (penicillin), John Dunlop (pneumatic tyre), Alexander Graham Bell (telephone). Perhaps the Scots really did invent the modern world!
Anniversary
To celebrate a lasting legacy David Livingstone left his legacy throughout southern Africa. Next year is the bicentenary of his birth and the town of Livingstone, Zambia, is gearing itself up to mark this occasion in a special way.
MORE ONLINE
Read about the Bicentiniel celebrations in the livingstone section. www.zambezitraveller.com
zambezi livingstone
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 21
PLANT ENCOUNTERS
Underground forests Just beneath the surface of the Kalahari Sands, underground forests are among the most remarkable features of the African flora in this region. By Evelyn Roe
H
idden beneath the surface of the Kalahari Sands concentrated in south-western Zambia are unseen forests closely related to the forests above ground.
This form of underground tree is called ‘geoxylic suffrutex.’ More than a hundred species have been identified, across a wide range of plant families. A distinctive feature of the habit is that each suffrutex species can be paired with very similar tree or climber species from which it may have evolved. For example, the tasty mobola, Parinari curatellifolia, has a suffrutex relative known as Parinari capensis (kabolabola). Their leaves, flowers and fruits are almost identical, but P. capensis hugs the ground. (Pic 1) Some suffrutex species have edible fruits, which are a valuable source of nutrition for people who rely on gathering food in the Kalahari. Examples include Diospyros chamaethamnus, a mini-version of D. batocana; Pygmaeothamnus zeyheri, the ‘sand-apple’; and Annona stenophylla in the custard-apple family. There is even a suffrutex waterberry, Syzygium huillense. (Pics 2 - 4)
1
2
3
4
5
KEY 1: Parinari capensis] 2: Diospyros chamaethamnus fruits 3. Pygmaeothamnus zeyheri fruits 4: Syzygium huillense specimen 5: Combretum platypetalum flowers 6: Combretum suffrutex at ground level
A good time to look for these plants is between September and November, as flowers and fruits appear at the very end of the dry season. Flowering is squeezed into a short period after annual burning and before the arrival of rain, thus
pollination can happen while there is no restricting grass and herb layer. A vivid example is Combretum platypetalum, with its scarlet blossom bursting into life on bleak, parched soils, among the remains of charred plants. (Pics 5 & 6)
The suffrutex habit may be an evolutionary adaptation in response to annual fires, giving underground protection to perennial woody growth and new buds and shoots. However, it seems that the seasonally waterlogged and
6
low-nutrient soils found in depressions in Kalahari Sands and at the edges of dambos influence its distribution. Lovely examples can be found under those soil conditions even on the outskirts of Livingstone, so now you can
add ‘Suffrutex’ to your sightseeing list for Zambia! Evelyn Roe; Botanical Researcher with Nor th-West Naturalists’ Society of Zambia; roe.evelyn@gmail.com Copyright: Permission to use one photograph by Trevor Robson
MUSIC
The multi-talented Zigzag By ZT Correspondant
Yes Rasta from Left: Sweet Eric, King Trandy & Zig Zag
PHOTO: Jollyboys.
All that is usually seen of these subterranean ‘trees’ are clumps of leaves emerging from the sand, like a canopy at ground level.The woody stems grow horizontally through the soil, often extending for metres in all directions, so one plant can create an almost circular patch of erect leaves.
Samuel ‘Zigzag’Nawa has many talents including those of an artist, musician and teacher, but he is best known as a painter of portraits, wildlife and cartoons. Zigzag was born into a large Christian family of ten; he started painting crosses at the age of seven and by 11 years he was selling his work.
+260(0)3 327271 / 323141
info@africanview.it www.africanview.it
His creativeness and versatility is evident in his murals and abstracts. He uses a variety of mediums including string painting for collages, charcoals and stencils. U-Tube exhibitions and a Facebook page have promoted his work internationally and he has had work exhibited in Zambia and around the world including Norway. His flair for working in different textures is taught in his art classes at Ngwenga Community School in Livingstone.
As an accomplished musician, Zigzag plays the marimba, percussion, bongo and does the backing vocals in a three-man band ‘Yes Rasta’ who perform at Jollyboys Backpackers at the weekends. Zigzag’s studio and home is at 2019 Lusaka Road, Livingstone, and his work can be viewed at Jollyboys.
zambezi livingstone
22 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Forestry
Regenerating woodland Nature is resilient and its capacity to regenerate itself can be managed for the benefit of all. ZTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tree specialist reports. By Meg Coates Palgrave
P
art of the Greenpop Trees for Zambia programme was a visit to a charcoal kiln near the Lusaka road not very far from Livingstone. This was horrendous. The Zambezi teak, Baikaia plurijuga, had been cut with a chain saw and turned into charcoal. But I was very encouraged to see both the Zambezi teak and the umtshibi or false-mopane, Guibourtia coleosperma, coppicing from their stumps. They had been sawn at more than one metre above ground level, a convenient height for cutting. Many of the trees in indigenous woodland coppice readily and re-grow from a cut or broken stem or trunk. Coppice shoots can be produced anywhere along the stem or branches not just around the root collar. Trees probably coppice better if they are cut at convenient axe height, rather than when they are cut very close to the ground. Growth from coppice is fastest in the first two years but stems can reach a height of four to five meters in 15 to 18 years. When re-sprouting or coppicing, the tree already has an established root system and
it would make sense to manage the re-growth as a means of regeneration in woodlands. The biggest hazard to seedlings and coppice growth is fire. Fire is a major problem in Africa, usually caused deliberately, not just for the sake of arson although that can be one of the reasons, but probably mostly in ignorance, to bring on grazing, to chase game when hunting, for clearing lands, to frighten away snakes and even because some people believe that burning is the right thing to do. I have always been very opposed to burning, even the so-called cool or cold burn. I keep asking â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;have you ever put your hand into a cold fire?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; This practise is also called early or controlled burning, taking place in autumn or early winter before the grass is completely dry, preferably in ideal conditions of a windless morning after a fall of dew. This produces a low intensity, inefficient fire which inflicts minimal damage to established trees, burning mainly the overburden of grass in a mosaic pattern, leaving islands of grass and bush untouched. The result usually produces a good flush of green grass which further reduces the risk of a hot fire later in the season, and so reduces the damage to
regenerating trees, seedlings and coppice growth. So it certainly does have merit. Other ways of preventing fires are to burn firebreaks or to cut the grass and sell it as thatching on the side of the road, thus adding value to managing the woodland. It would be wonderful if in addition to planting seedling trees there was an initiative to manage the re-growth in the woodlands or forests, including preventing fires.
Coppice growth from a stump of Zambezi teak
PHOTO: Meg Coates Palgrave
Wildlife
Caracal project takes off By Cliff Welch, Mukuni Big 5 Volunteer and Cheetah Conservation Trust
T
he secretive caracal is the focus of an initiative being pioneered by Mukuni Big 5 Volunteer and the Cheetah Conservation Trust. The project aims to reintroduce the caracal (Caracal caracal) into national parks and protected areas in Zambia. The breeding of caracals at the Caracal Breeding Centre, the only one in Zambia, has been successful, with considerable effort going into creating the right conditions and environment for breeding success.
Little is known about these small cats due to their secretive nature and independent character. Using the volunteer programme, comprehensive data capture at the CBC will increase understanding of their behaviour and in tune advocate more improvements in the programme to increase breeding success. Mukuni Big 5 has three adult caracals, one sub-adult and the latest two editions born in the Centre in June. The kittens will be brought up by their mother to ensure that there is no human contact; avoiding humans at this stage will reduce the chances of human wildlife conflict when they are released. The kittens are earmarked for release onto a privately owned ecological reserve
Caracal
when they reach the appropriate age. This release of captive bred caracal back into the wild will be a first for Zambia and a major milestone for reintroduction programmes in the country. The selected release site is rich in small mammals for the cats to survive on, with a
PHOTO: Makuni Big 5
healthy population of dassies or hyrax in particular. This successful release of these cats will pave the way for future releases to re-establish this endangered species back into ecosystems around Zambia.
zambezi livingstone
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 23
Conservation
Learning to love trees Meg Coates Palgrave is one of the leading specialists on southern African trees and is best known as author of several books and keys for identification of trees in the field. By Meg Coates Palgrave
T
he best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago, the next best time is now! And that was what I was invited to Livingstone by the organisers of Greenpop Trees for Zambia to do; plant a tree, amongst other things. What a pleasure it all was. Enthusiasm is a wonderful ingredient for any project and of that there was no lack, either from the organisers or the participants who were all
July was chosen for the planting so that the trees would have to be looked after until the rains come and hopefully the message of looking after trees would have been absorbed.
The volunteers came for one, two or three weeks, having paid their own passage to Livingstone, to come and plant trees - in the end they planted a total of 4,135. They were housed in tents at the Maramba River Lodge camp site.
volunteers, mainly from Cape Town, but also from elsewhere; Germany, Sweden and at University in Hawaii, and I don’t remember where else. There were about 65 or 70 volunteers while I was there, which was during the middle week of the three week project in July.
Much of the tree planting was done at 21 schools in and around Livingstone when the day was treated as a fun day. The volunteers dug the holes, compost and mulch had been pre-arranged and was available on site and the trees were
planted with the help of the school children who were responsible for the watering. The children were also encouraged to give the tree a name and expected to look after it. If a tree has a name it has an identity and when it has an identity it becomes important. July was chosen for the planting so that the trees would have to be looked after until the rains come and hopefully the message of looking after trees would have been absorbed.
Conservation
Planting for a greener future By Christopher Scott
T
The planting was done by local and international volunteers, members of the local business community, school children, teachers and local farmers. “The planting went really well! It was great to have so many school children getting stuck in and so many Zambian volunteers joining us,” said Lauren O’Donnell, co-founder and director of Greenpop, the local NGO organising the campaign. “The ground was hard and the digging was difficult, but we did it with a strong team of volunteers!”
PHOTO: Meg Coates Palgrave
he Trees for Zambia reforestation campaign in July saw 4100 fruit and indigenous trees planted in the Livingstone area at 21 schools, Songwe Village, the Sons of Thunder Subsistence Farmers Community and Dambwa Forest. Volunteers and pupils with the tree they have just planted
His Royal Highness Senior Chief Mukuni was present at the Songwe Village planting day where he acknowledged the importance of reforestation in Zambia where trees have been devastated by charcoal and wooden curio markets. “I had a good experience talking to the women at Songwe Village,” said UNDP representative Excellent Hachileka. “They are very keen to learn conservation farming and grow trees in their
community garden after the planting day with Greenpop.” The tree planting campaign formed part of a larger conference that included talks and workshops by leading professionals on the importance of reforestation, the environment and global warming. Greenpop in conjunction with the Conservation Farming Unit held workshops with local community farmers on the importance of soil conservation and tree planting within fields.
“Trees for Zambia saw the start of an ongoing campaign to plant trees, encouraging a culture of replacing trees and spreading awareness about climate change and deforestation. Greenpop has employed a monitoring manager in Livingstone to continue checking trees, visiting schools, planting seedling nurseries and maintaining relationships,” said O’Donnell. “Greenpop’s hope is to buy trees from small-scale nurseries that have been set up during this campaign for next year’s Conference of Action. Greenpop is also looking at developing the campaign across Zambia in the future, through more education, innovation and sustainable technology initiatives.” Zambia has been rated by the Food and Agricultural Organization as suffering the second highest deforestation per capita in the world, with the Zambian Forestry Department placing deforestation in Livingstone at 5% annually.
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Planting a tree assissted by the pupils
The trees planted were mainly Faidherbia albida, mangos, guavas (which I deplored because they are invasive) and Moringa, which is the latest miracle tree for Africa. I am still not sure how invasive it may or may not be. I do know of an isolated one growing near Chimoio in Mozambique so hopefully the ones that were planted will stay where they were put and won’t spread. In addition groups of children were shown how to prepare bags for seed and how to plant and water them. As an alternative to charcoal and firewood for cooking the use of solar cookers was being encouraged and each school and farmers group was shown how easy it is to construct one using recycled packaging such as a cardboard box and the shiny inside of crisp packets.
PHOTO: Meg Coates Palgrave
It was demonstrated that a small pot of rice could be cooked in about two hours. Altogether 30 solar cookers were made during the three weeks. During the week I conducted Know Your Trees courses - it was stimulating because all participants were interested and had something to contribute. We also visited a concession area of Dambwa forest and in partnership with Lion Encounter and ALERT, planted trees. More than 800 trees of 10 or 12 species were planted in that one reforestation effort. Altogether a wonderful undertaking, the proof of which will be in the survival of the trees.
DEVELOPMENT
Canoeing on the Zambezi River Guests at Sanctuary Sussi and Chuma can partake in a diverse range of activities. We have now included canoeing on the Zambezi River. Guests are able to enjoy a morning or afternoon canoeing excursion as they explore the Zambezi River. The canoeing activity can also be combined with either a game drive in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National park or a boat cruise.
zambezi livingstone
24 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Community
By ZT Correspondent Fresh produce sourced locally by the hospitality industry not only makes sense in terms of arriving in kitchens in prime condition, but it also reduces the carbon footprint and the cost by slashing transport requirements. Since 2004, Sun International Hotels in Zambia has managed
a local food sourcing programme through which it procures fresh fruits and vegetables from 400 smallholder farmers. The company estimates it can generate a 35% saving by sourcing locally, and it aims to double the number of small holders that it works with during the next five years. Sun International Zambia manages this project in partnership with ASNAPP, an agricultural technical assistance provider, which trains the smallholders in horticulture production, and CETZAM, a microfinance institution providing working capital to the smallholders.
PHOTO: SUN INTERNATIONAL
Sourcing locally is best
Smallholder horticulture production on a local farm
Smallholders over the years have faced various challenges from crop loss due to extreme weather conditions and lack of access to wider markets, relying 100% on
Sun International to purchase their products. Sun International and its partners have identified these problems and are working on solutions. The development of a packhouse facility and partnership with a regional retailer will open up new markets in which smallholders can sell surplus products and their produce will be protected. The potential adoption of new climate change resilient technologies and products will further secure the smallholder farmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s produce. To this end, Sun International has sought support from the Business Innovation Facility. BIF will focus on:
Identifying sustainable new markets and methods such as increasing sales in local markets and small-scale processing enterprises for value-added products such as honey. Organizational structure for the packhouse facility including potential new partners. Options for climate-resilience technologies, such as greenhouses and weather warning systems. Funding options for the programme including working capital for inputs and longer-term loans for greenhouses.
The new packhouse facilityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s centralized system can benefit both Sun International and the smallholders, serving as a collection and distribution point for inputs, raw materials, fresh produce and value-added products. Public and private funding for smallholders can also be managed through the packhouse. An automated system and new technology can increase transparency, provide technical assistance and streamline procurement.
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roy.mabingo@pamgolding.co.zm
Lodge and chalets set on 600 hectares of land in Livingstone, Zambia's tourist capital - and under 20km from the Falls. The lodge, which is ideal for redevelopment or expansion, includes a main building, dining area, pool, storage, large family house, family cottage and more. Being in a management area, wildlife is a stone's throw away and water runs through the property. This extensive plot represents a great opportunity to develop a tourism venture.
+260 211 253 420 | +260 965 405 009
Arcades, Lusaka www.pamgolding.co.za/zambia
zambezi livingstone
Zambezi Traveller
Adventure
David Lemon is a man with a mission. It is thought that no man has ever achieved what Lemon, at the age of 67, is attempting - to walk the length of the Zambezi, from source to sea.
Man on a mission Byline: By Peter Roberts
I
n 1853 David Livingstone, travelling from the south, reached the river near its confluence with the Chobe, and deduced that this was the same mighty river which flowed into the Indian Ocean. During his subsequent travels, Livingstone explored upstream into the Barotse floodplains and downstream to the sea, although in several sections he diverted from the course of the river, and he did not reach its source. David Lemon started his journey at the end of April, at the source of the Zambezi near the Zambian
settlement of Mwinilunga. Visa issues prevented him from enter ing Angola, through which the Zambezi flows for a short period before re-entering Zambia. He travelled approximately 400 kms overland to Chavuma before re-connecting with the river and continuing his journey. Lemon has already negotiated challenges which would have defeated many. The vast expanse of the Barotse floodplains had to be traversed, as he records: “Crossing the Luena Plain was a three day nightmare, as the flood waters hadn’t yet receded and I was forced to wade through water reaching my knees and occasionally
David Lemon
my waist. Grass tore at my feet and falls were frequent, while my nights were spent on small patches of high ground without firewood and in company with millions of marauding mossies. “The water was full of leeches too and I spent a lot of
Innovation
By Clare Mateke
Mission Africa was the latest challenge taken up by electric vehicle manufacturer Venturi. It was a journey across Africa in an electric vehicle without any assistance on roads and trails from Kenya to South Africa, covering a distance of 5,500 kilometres. The vehicle left Nairobi on 11 May and entered Zambia about ten days later, reaching Livingstone on 2 June. In collaboration with the Wildlife and Environmental Conservation Society of Zambia, the public and the press were invited to meet the driver Xavier Chevrin and his cameraman Vivien Floris at ZigZag Restaurant. Electric vehicles use an electric motor powered by a re-chargeable battery. The battery takes up most of the space under the bonnet and can be plugged into
time tearing them off and leaving my legs streaming blood to attract more. Had it been possible, I would have packed up then and there, but fortunately perhaps, I just had to press on as I was entirely alone and help was not readily available. I was later told by locals that nobody had walked across the plain at that time of year ( July) in living memory.” Lemon recently reached Livingstone, approximately half way on his journey. Here he recuperated with Karien and Peter Kermer at Kayube River Farm before setting off on what is probably the most daunting section of his walk, covering the rugged Batoka
spark plugs, starter motor, pistons, or many of the engine parts that often wear out or need servicing. The battery was of nickel and sodium chloride (table salt) - cheap, easily available and environmentally friendly materials.
Electric is the way to go A major driver of climate change is the use of fossil fuels like diesel, petrol and oil in the vehicles we use. Many would like to change to a cleaner form of transport – but what are the options in Africa? In June Livingstone residents were able to observe and examine an electric car that was making a pioneer journey through Africa.
Electric cars have been around for about a century but have only recently become common as personal family cars. One of the main aims of this mission was to show that it was possible to use them even in a continent where towns Venturi Electric Car parked in Livingstone
a socket and charged on mains electricity overnight. On one battery this car, a small van, could drive 120 km without needing a re-charge. However, this particular vehicle was rigged up with two extra batteries, allowing it to travel
Travellers Friend 25
up to 500 kms on one charge, at about 10% of the cost of driving a conventionally fuelled car. Those who came to see it were fascinated by its quiet engine and lack of exhaust fumes, as well as the fact that it did not need oil,
Gorge which extends for some 120 kilometres below the Victoria Falls. Even David Livingstone, who it is estimated walked some 42,000 kilometres during his African travels, avoided this region by travelling the high country to the north of the river. Our modern day Zambezi traveller is fully aware of the obstacles ahead. “The terrain is particularly hard and I don’t think there will be too much habitation should things go wrong and I need help. I will get through it though. I have a satellite phone, but I am not really sure how to use it!”
are far apart, roads are not always good, and there is little assistance available if a vehicle breaks down far from anywhere. And the mission was achieved; the car was driven all the way from Nairobi to Johannesburg, via many different road types and even through national parks. It would make sense for Zambia to switch to electric cars, but the biggest hindrance is the import duty charged on them, currently
He hopes to reach Siavonga by mid October and at this stage is still confident of completing his mission, although instead of flooded wetlands he now has to negotiate a rugged wilderness through some of the hottest months of the year. And after that he can look forward to the Lower Zambezi in the rains, and more mosquitoes! L emon is using his journey to raise awareness and support for elephant conservation across the Zambezi valley, another of his passions. Zambezi Traveller will feature more of his story in future issues. Visit www.elephantlemon.com
MORE ONLINE
Read about David Lemon’s personal account in the Livingstone section www.zambezitraveller.com
100% of purchase price. This is apparently because electric vehicles are grouped with golf carts for duty, not taking into account personal and utility electric vehicles are now available. Electric cars would greatly benefit the economy, using locally produced electricity, and reducing the cost of transport. Electric vehicles would give us a cleaner, quieter environment and help mitigate climate.
zambezi livingstone
26 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Adventure
Longer rafting trips launched By Sarah Mackenzie
T
his is the best time of year to enjoy white water rafting on the mighty Zambezi River, truly a once in a lifetime experience. Safari Par Excellence has recently started multi-day rafting trips to add to their portfolio of products. Two options are now available; a one night / two day trip and a three night / three and a half day trip, which will run from mid
August to January, depending on river levels.
ing on the pristine white sandy beaches within Batoka Gorge.
Commercial rafting first commenced on the Zambezi River in 1981 and since then this activity has grown in popularity to the point where rafting here is now internationally acclaimed as the best white water rafting trip available in the world.
The trips allow time to swim in rock pools beneath Victoria Falls, rafting through some huge rapids, relaxing on beaches, enjoying the guides’ open-air cooking, while sitting around a bonfire listening to their stories – they are great entertainers as well as awesome rafters - and sleeping under the stars, ready to wake to the sound of fish eagles in the morning.
Multi-day trips have been designed to cater specifically for those looking to experience both the adrenalin rush and sheer power of the river, whilst also allowing for camp-
Visit www.safpar.com zamwf@safpar.com PHOTO: Sean Edington
Events Tuesdays & Thursdays
Fridays
Yoga classes
Rotary Club of Livingstone
Tuesdays & Thursdays
Saturday Mornings
09.00 - 11.30 hrs & 14.30 17.00hrs Phone + 260 (0) 977325799
09.00 - 11.30hrs Cell + 260 () 977325799
8.30 - 9.30 hrs Livingstone Golf Club. Phone Bev + 260 (0) 979959981
Art Classes - Agnes Yombe
13.00hrs - 14.00hrs Livingstone Golf Club. Phone Sue + 260 (0) 965888810
Art Classes - Agnes Yombe
6 October
Annual Livingstone Regatta
Wednesdays
Touch Rugby
17.30hrs L/Stone Golf Club Contact J.T. Cell + 260 (0) 974269646 Fridays
Cake Sale Acacia School
Zambezi Boat Club October/November
Miss V.C.T Competition
New Fairmount Hotel Phone Sibu + 260 (0) 977881941
11.00hrs - 13.00hrs Sonja Cell + 260 (0) 977126526
Advertise in the Livingstone Classifieds Frances Jackson fjackson@iwayafrica.com Accommodation
Accommodation Fawlty Towers -
Chanters Lodge - Stay at Chanters Lodge in
Livingstone, great food, wonderful garden with pool, comfortable reasonably priced rooms in Lukulu Crescent, off Obote Avenue Phone: + 260 213 323412 Email : richardchanter@gmail.com http://www.chanters-livingstone.com twitter/@livilodge
Private air – conditioned en-suite rooms & dormitory accommodation, set in a large garden with swimming pool, braai area. Sauna & beauty salon. Free Airport pick-ups and daily shuttles to the Falls. Situated opposite Shoprite, Mosi-oa-Tunya Square. Phone : + 260 213 323432Mobile : + 260 (0) 972250154 Email: ahorizon@zamnet.zm
Ngolide Lodge - Well equipped air-condi-
tioned newly re-furbished rooms. Our “ Golden Leaf Restaurant“ serves Indian/Continental Cuisine Located : Mosi-oa –Tunya Road Lodge : + 260 213 321091/2 Restaurant : + 260 213 321266 E-mail :ngolidelodge@gmail.com www.ngolidelodge.com
Accommodation
Airline & Bus Tickets
Books & Stationery
For Sale
Victoria Apartments – Livingstone - Modern
Reservation and ticketing for Intercape Bus to Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho Border, Mozambique Located Livingstone town centre Mosi-oa-Tunya Road Phone:+260 213 320241/320773/322128 E-mail:southend@zamnet.zm Skype:southendtravel
Bookworld Livingstone - Selling a good selection of children’s, professional, reference & educational books. All at affordable prices. Stationery items also available. Contact us : + 260 213 32141
Speed Boat - Good second-hand out board with 15HP Evenrud Engine. Six seats. Hardly used. Contact Roy : Mobile: +260 (0) 955443557
self-catering units with 2 en-suite bedrooms, fully equipped kitchens, DSTV, Wifi, secure parking and garden. US116 per suite per night – conditions apply. Next to Protea Hotel, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road Phone Mark + 260 (0) 973313644 vareservations@gmail.com
Activities
affordable accommodation in Livingstone town, only 7kms from Victoria Falls. All rooms have en-suite facilities, air-conditioning, secure parking, beautiful gardens, swimming pool, children’s play area, DSTV,free WiFi for guests, delicious food served all day, licenced bar. Phone: + 260 213 322814 Mobile: + 260 (0) 977681741 E-mail: info@zigzagzambia.com www.zigzagzambia.com
the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Inclusive pick-up and drop-off, park fees, professional guide, game scout , light breakfast, halfway snacks, cold water/soft drinks. ‘ Take a walk on the wild side‘ Livingstone safaris Tel : + 260 213 322267 C ell : + 260 (0) 977450716 E-mail :gecko@zamnet.zm
Airline & Bus Tickets Southend Travel - IATA member. For Living-
stone airline reservations and ticketing on domestic, regional and international flights. Free quotes.
travel in Style! with Mazhandu Family Buses
Bar & Restaurant The Old Farm House - “ THE QUIET HIDE AWAY ON
Walk With The Rhino - on a 3 hour‘walking safari’in
ZigZag Bed and Breakfast - Clean, comfortable,
+263 (0) 712 208 370
THE ROYAL MILE “ Enjoy and relaxing meal on our verandah or a refreshing drink in our fully stocked bar. Venue available for private functions and children’s birthday parties. Contact Trevor : 00 260 (0)971692719 Or Annita : 00 260 (0)975114440
Auto Repair Bennett Engineering - Professional engine assembling, vehicle maintenance and servicing. Skimming of cylinder heads. Reborring/ skimming engine blocks. Press fit conrods. Test/set/fit injector nozzles. Fitting of cam bushes. Vehicle diagnostic. Import spares from South Africa Mosi-os-Tunya Road, opposite Falls Park Contact : + 260 213 321611 Mobile : +260 (0) 978308936
Daily Routes Livingstone Sesheke
Butchery Fallsmeat Ltd - Top quality meat, biltong and boerwors and many other products. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone Town Centre Phone + 260 (0) 979497181
Engen - Falls Park towards Victoria Falls. 24 hr fuel,
Charity
Gift Shop
Rotary Club - Every Friday the Rotary Club of Livingstone meet at the Royal Livingstone Golf & Country Club. 13.00hrs – 14.00hrs Contact Sue + 260 (0)965888810
Reflections - Camping equipment, good selection of assorted cards and gifts for all occasions. Located: Falls Park Shopping Centre Mobile : + 260 (0) 977788575
For Sale
Restaurants
ABC Coffins - We supply equipment and technology to manufacture biodegradable coffins with re-cycled paper. Looking for Franchisee or joint venture Contact Ferdie :+ 260 213 322996 Mobile: + 260 (0) 979311538
Daily Departure Times Lusaka
Livingstone
1st Bus 06:30Hrs
1st Bus 06:00Hrs
2nd Bus 07:30Hrs
2nd Bus 07:00Hrs
3rd Bus 09:00Hrs
3rd Bus 09:00Hrs
Getting to your business and leisure desitination has
Kazungula
at special fares. Travel with us and enjoy our fantastic onboard customer services throughout your journey.
Monze
4th Bus 11:30Hrs
4th Bus 10:30Hrs
Ndola
5th Bus 13:30Hrs
5th Bus 13:30Hrs
Kitwe
6th Bus 19:30Hrs
6th Bus 20:00Hrs
Choma
Fuel Station convenience store. Phone:+260 213 322584 E-mail : ambleside@zamnet.zm
Laughing Dragon Chinese Restaurant -
Superb Sichuan Cuisine, take-aways & restaurant Self-contained local accommodation John Hunt Way behind Post Office Phone : + 260 213 322555
Travel and Booking Enquiries Mazhandu Family Bus Services Ltd +260 977 805064 (Hotline) +260 975 805064 (Livingstone) Email: panga@zamnet.zm www.mazhandu.com
Lusaka
27
on your way to the Zambezi
Anniversary
Reflections on Zambian tourism We talk with the directors of Voyagers; Marion, Howard and Grant Gatchell ZT: What are your most popular out-going destinations?
who have even visited this area. Zambia cries out for investment in tourism.
We send people all over the world; our most popular single destination is Johannesburg – reflecting O.R. Tambo’s status as Southern Africa’s hub and the substantial business done in Gauteng. We can proudly say that Voyagers has been awarded, by South African Airways at the SAA Tourism Awards at Indaba, ‘Best Agent in Southern Africa’ for 2011 and again in 2012.Our most popular holiday destination is the Indian Ocean Islands.
ZT: Has the current world recession impacted your travel market and what is the current trend?
ZT: When you market Zambia as a world class tourism destination, what do you think is its biggest attraction?
Marion, Howard and Gatchell
ZT Correspondant
ZT: Twenty-five years in the travel industry in Zambia – you have witnessed huge developments. How do you think Zambia stands on the world travel scene? Zambia stands in its own niche. Some of our weaknesses have become strengths – the very short season which makes Zambian holiday options relatively more expensive. This means that lodges are generally smaller, more exclusive and have a limited impact on the environment. ZT: How did Voyagers start? Marion Gatchell has been in the travel industry in Zambia since 1973 and, with the encouragement of her husband, Howard, decided in 1987 to go it alone. Voyagers has grown from one person in one room, to the largest travel agency in Zambia.
Arcades, Lusaka +260 211 253 420 www.pamgolding.co.za/zambia lusaka@pamgolding.co.zm
ZT: How big are you? Voyagers employs a total of 190 people across four separate, limited, companies with branches in Chingola, Kitwe, Lusaka, Ndola, Livingstone and soon in Solwezi. ZT: Zambia attracts foreign investors; is the ‘expat’ market your biggest business or do local Zambians travel a lot? Voyagers are first and foremost a Zambian company serving the Zambian market, so our principle market is Zambian. Expatriates are a key market and we specialize in providing high quality solutions to their travel requirements, which are diverse and can be challenging.
Zambia is richly endowed in natural attractions, premier amongst these are Victoria Falls, the Lower Zambezi National Park and South Luangwa. However there is so much more that is absolutely world class, including Lake Tanganyika, Kafue National Park, Liuwa Plains and many more. The soon-to-beflooded Kafue Gorge would be an astounding attraction in any country – yet you will struggle to find many people
Our principle market has always been Zambian and this market has proved resilient in recent years despite the world recession, as a result of strong progress in the mining industry and a stable domestic environment. The international market has indeed been challenging. Recent law changes in Zambia have made the business environment in Zambia less hospitable, with SI 33 in particular making Voyagers role as a Zambian based tour operating company close to impossible, and generally reducing the appeal and ease of selling the Zambian tourism product internationally.
Unclear at the moment; not being able to quote in US Dollars means that foreign operators cannot hedge the risk of selling our products and many will choose not to sell the Zambian product, switching sales to other countries. Domestic tourism has strong potential and we might see some of the slack taken up by this source. However recent steps taken by the Government may strengthen
ZT: Has the UNWTO event in 2013 in Livingstone and Victoria Falls increased travel interest to Zambia? Larger events tend to raise the profile of destinations; we are optimistic that this will have a positive impact on Livingstone. ZT: Where do you see Voyagers Travel in 25 years time? Voyagers is a flexible and innovative company. We are actively looking for opportunities and will continue to develop our operations.
ZT: Where is your favourite holiday destination? My favourite holiday is sitting on the banks of the Luangwa
Is your table turnover producing the profits you want? Empower your waiters to provide the best possible customer service and keep your guests happy. Specialised Training Solutions: experts in hospitality training.
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Zambia Weekly
Tel: 0026 0211 253639 0026 0977 856040 E-mail: gerritz@iconnect.zm www.gerritz-restaurant.com
ZT: The future for Zambian tourism?
the Kwacha and could result in demand for cheaper regional products.
The Minimum Wages Act will also negatively impact SMEs.
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Okavango
28
on your way to the Zambezi
Conservation
One of Africa’s jewels By Kelly Landen
T
ACTIVITIES Game Drives
Collaring giraffe for reasearch in the Okavango
within the Okavango Delta, has some of the largest wildlife populations in the region, which underscores its importance as a wildlife refuge, as it supports a diverse community of fragile wetland habitats that are critical for wildlife.
ACTIVITIES Game Drives Walks Mokoro activities Boat Cruises
PHOTO: Kelly Landen
of wildlife. The herbivores ecology study is occurring in tandem with studies on the ecology of elephants. Thus far, EWB is working with three Masters students and three PhD candidates and two Post-docs from universities in Botswana, Australian, South Africa and America who are studying herbivore ecology, elephant movements, thermoregulation, elephant demography, and human elephant conflict. www.elephantswithoutborders.org
Conservation
Farmers the key for cheetah future The major threat to cheetahs within reserves is competition from larger predators. Outside protected areas, cheetahs face threats from livestock farmers, poachers and people catching cats for illegal trade.
By Rebecca Klein
The last century saw a 90% drop in the worldwide population of cheetahs, and now half of the world’s population can be found within the boundaries of Botswana and Namibia. The survival of this unique and threatened species relies on the conservation of this population, however many threats continue to contribute to a decline in numbers. Cheetahs do not compete well against larger predators like lion and spotted hyena, which means they pass up living in protected areas for land outside of reserves, where unfortunately they come into conflict with humans. Recent research in Botswana’s largest protected area, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, indicated
Old World Safari Charm B O T S WA N A
PHOTO: Jane Horgan
he Okavango Delta is known as the ‘ jewel’ of the K a la ha ri. Comprised of palm islands, meandering papyrus-fringed waterways, thick woodlands, and lush vegetation, it is a unique, fragile ecosystem rich in wildlife and biodiversity. In 2010, Elephants Without Borders (EWB) conducted an aerial survey of wildlife across northern Botswana to provide new and precise data on the current population status of wildlife at regional, district and concession levels. The survey revealed that the NG 26 conservation area, the second largest concession
tions within the Okavango. Thus, EWB has partnered with a commercial operation in NG26, which has kindly provided a place from which to base this wildlife research study. EWB with this kind of support has recently collared buffalo, giraffe and zebra in the concession, this multispecies movement study will be complemented with a series of seasonal aerial counts to determine the impacts of fires, flooding, fences and poaching on the population dynamics
Considering the fundamental key to effective wildlife conservation and management is long-term, science-based research, EWB has started a new multi-species conservation research programme to better understand the population status and spatial ecology of large herbivores throughout Botswana. NG26, known as “Abu” concession provides an ideal location from which to base such a programme to understand the factors affecting wildlife popula-
Rebecca Klein with collared cheetah
alarmingly small population estimates of cheetah, in contrast to very healthy populations of other predators. The survival of cheetahs in Africa relies on the preservation of populations that are found outside of protected areas.
Cheetah Conservation Botswana is working hard with the community to help assist farmers to identify which predators are causing problems on their farms (by accurate identification of livestock kills), and by implementing predatorfriendly management tools to help protect livestock from predation, such as kraaling at night or using guard dogs for livestock. These techniques can be very effective at reducing livestock losses to predators, and it is known that once losses are reduced or eliminated, a farmer is much less likely to use lethal control against predators.
Development
By Rachel Mbulawa
J
Tel: +267 686 0981 or +267 686 1634 Cell: +267 7132 6085 kkreservations@ngami.net www.menoakwena.com
This timeless region now hosts a new luxurious tented camp - Camp Linyanti. Nestling discretely into its environment, the camp sits on a platform overlooking the Linyanti Caprivi River. The best experiences are about the
By knowing more about cheetahs on farmland, CCB will be able to help the community to live side by side with these threatened animals. Coexistence is the only way to secure a healthy future for the fastest land animal in Africa. providing contemporary comforts. Each tent is well equipped and well designed. Centrally located are comfortable beds whilst the bathroom with a tub allows for a perfect soak and the outdoor shower offers a refreshing atmosphere too. Morning comes with the sounds of the birds and hippos welcoming the new day.
New camp reveals eden ust west of Chobe National Park lies Linyanti, an area densely populated with predators which may also be the park’s most diverse area. Linyanti is a nature lovers dream.
Community work and education can help spread the message about the important role that predators play in the ecosystem and can help the community to understand the value of protecting these animals. CCB is also involved in extensive research looking at everything from diet analysis and morphology of cheetahs to behavioural and ecological studies including how cheetahs behave on farmland, what they eat and how they interact with other animals.
Leopard
simple things. Picture yourself on the balcony deck sipping refined wine, watching hippos and elephants and absorbing the beauty of the dusk as it changes day into night. The camp boasts five intimate ‘rondavel’ (circular) canvas units, all facing the beautiful river lagoon and
Camp Linyanti is loaded with everything needed for an African adventure; all activities inclusive. Given the riverside habitat, various bird species, majestic hippos together with the many mammal species, Camp Linyanti offers walks, moroko (dug-out) river rides and game drives to help the visitor observe and connect with nature.
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CONSERVATION in ACTION
Travellers Friend 29 FACT FILE
Compiled by Dr Gianetta Purchase
Focus on cheetah The take home message when it comes to conserving cheetahs is that they need LOTS of space.
The fastest mammal on earth The scientific name for cheetah is Acinonyx jubatus. Previously thought to be genetically uniform, more recent data suggests that cheetahs exist in distinct genetic populations, with those in southern Africa different to those in East and northern Africa (there is still insufficient data from West Africa). The cheetah is specially adapted to reach high speeds: PHOTO: Laurie Simpson
Male coalition at Dom, Hwange National Park
E
ven in areas with high prey densities such as the Serengeti, cheetahs still roam widely, especially fema les. W h i le not completely understood the theory is that this behaviour results from an evolutionary history of avoiding stronger competitors such as the lion and the spotted hyaena. This need for lots of space and wide ranging behaviour makes the cheetah increasingly vulnerable as human populations in their range areas increase, and land is subsequently altered, sometimes irrevocably. Their wide ranging behaviour coupled with wild prey populations declining over much of Africa has also increased the chances of conflict with livestock producers, as cheetahs kill livestock when natural prey is limited or not available. Many protected areas of Africa are simply too small (<10 000km2) or have too large an edge effect to protect this species and conservation efforts must focus on encouraging tolerance to their presence in key connecting and buffer areas between the protected area networks of Africa. However, there are a number of positives when looking at the future
Even in areas with high prey densities such as the Serengeti, cheetahs still roam widely, especially females. of the cheetah. It is a very timid animal and no threat to humans, preferring to avoid areas of human habituation and to move away from noise and human activity – in fact in many parts of Africa noise is used to keep cheetah away from livestock! So encouraging coexistence does not come with a potential cost to human life. It can persist where natural prey densities are low given that it can eat relatively small prey and still survive so there are many areas of Africa that remain suitable habitat for it outside of the protected area estate. Livestock can be protected quite easily from
cheetah given it’s timid nature without huge expense (eg using livestock guarding dogs, herding livestock during early hours of day and in the evening, keeping a donkey with a herd, and simply placing cow bells on a few individuals of the livestock herd)
The new approach sees planning carried out at the regional level and then development of national action plans. In Southern Africa, the planning process as resulted in four key areas which were previously neglected now have active or emerging cheetah projects (Kafue national park; the northern complex of protected areas in Zimbabwe; Gona-re-zhou National Park; Northern Tuli Game Reserve and the Mozambique component of the Great Limpopo TFCA). Areas where cheetah could be restored have also been identified, including parks in Mozambique and Zambia (especially the Luangwa area crossing into Kasungu national park in Malawi) and small reserves in South Africa that have agreed to become part of a managed meta-population.
Cheetahs have also shown their ability to survive in a variety of habitats from the dry arid areas of Namibia to thick thornveld to the wet floodplains of Zambia and Botswana so again we have a lot of choice as to where to look after them.
Governments are actively being encouraged to promote the conservation of cheetah to the level of rhino and elephant with varying degrees of success, and the international community is being lobbied to protect the species from the threat of illegal trade.
Conservation efforts are therefore focussing on raising awareness of the threats and possible mitigation methods across their known range and encouraging tolerance to their presence and commitment to maintaining enough land that is suitable for them (not necessarily fully protected or full of wildlife remember - just suitable for a few cheetahs).
For more information about the Range wide programme and in country projects within the Zambezi Basin, (and to find out how you can help), visit the following websites: www.cheetahandwilddog.org; www.cheetah.org; www.cheetahzimbabwe.org www.zambiacarnivores.org www.cheetahbotswana.com
it has semi-retractable claws which provide grip when running at high speed; it has a larger than normal heart to help pump blood to muscles when running; it has a very flexible spine which allows it to twist and turn at high speed, coupled with a long but strong tail which acts like a rudder and provides stability at high speed; its small head and ears reduce resistance when running. The dark tear marks absorb strong sunlight, helping the cheetah to hunt in daylight. Cheetah cubs have a very distinctive mane of light coloured hair down their back which is thought to help camouflage the cubs when they are left on their own while their mother hunts. They gradually lose this mane. Cheetah females are solitary, and males can either live on their own or in coalitions. Home ranges of females and young adult males are large, often close to 1 000km2. Territorial males have smaller home ranges that overlap with a number of female home ranges. They eat predominantly middle size prey animals (10 – 35 kgs) but can catch quite small prey such as scrub hares, or larger animals such as kudu, the latter when they hunt as a coalition. It is listed as ‘Vulnerable’ on the IUCN Red List. The three regional conservation planning exercises that have taken place since 2007 have estimated that there are fewer than 10 000 cheetah left in Africa, in increasingly fragmented landscapes. It is commonly confused with the leopard and the serval. It is no threat to humans – in fact you can pull a cheetah’s tail and it will simply try to run away from you. It will prey on livestock but generally only when there is limited wild prey available.
30 Travellers Friend
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Zambezi News
chobe TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
31
Research
Research without borders some trees the bark was actually being stripped from top to bottom. The only likely culprit was giraffe and just as this was being discussed the team came upon a large and extremely dark giraffe bull demonstrating just how it can be done.
By Andy Tutchings Giraffe Conservation Foundation
C
ollaboration and cooperation are key words for Elephants Without Borders. This month saw EWB at the centre of a ground breaking conservation initiative with the launch of the most significant stage of its recently established Herbivore Ecology Programme. The project is the result of collaboration between a number of international partners, a move considered essential in the long term sustainability of conservation research. The partnership will provide much needed, and some may suggest long overdue, efficiency in the field of conservation research, through the pooling of resources and expertise. It will also endeavour to prevent any wasteful repetition of effort by concentrating on sharing information and ensuring there is no time wasted reinventing the proverbial wheel! EWB, with the continued endorsement of Botswana’s Department of Wildlife and National Parks, is facilitating this project in partnership with Australia’s University of New South Wales and two PhD students under the collective guidance of Drs Keith Leggett, Mike Chase and Julian Fennessy, from the Giraffe Conservation Foundation.
PHOTO: KELLY LANDEN
Giraffe in the sunset
As EWB’s recent findings have all too clearly indicated, the timing of this initiative could not have been better. There is an unquestionable need for a greater understanding in the area of human wildlife conflict. UNSW’s Tempe Adams will concentrate her efforts in the field of human elephant conflict, building on field work and trials undertaken by Dr Anna Songhurst, on the western side of the Okavango Delta. Elephant numbers and impacts have increased in this region over the last decade and the initiative will help communities manage conflict with an abundant elephant population.
From left to right: Dr. Mike Chase, Kelly Landen, Dr. Keith Leggett (UNSW), Kylie McQualter, Dr. Julian Fennessy (GCF), Tempe Adams, Andy Tutchings (GCF), Dario Fornaro
In a separate initiative, UNSW’s Kylie McQualter will establish what will be the first ever long-term study of giraffe in Botswana. EWB’s May 2011 report indicated an alarming 65% reduction in giraffe numbers in Botswana in the last ten years, and so Kylie’s work will look at range, distribution, movements, impacts of illegal hunting
and comparison between two key giraffe areas – the Chobe and the Delta. This will provide essential input into a much needed continent-wide conservation management strategy for the species being developed by GCF. During the project’s very first game drive along the Chobe River waterfront,
Drs Mike Chase and Julian Fennessy were discussing the recent phenomenon of bark stripping of the Natal Mahogany tree. Often the work of elephant on other trees species, it had become clear much of the damage was too high for most elephant and that on
In his many years in the bush, Dr Chase had never seen this before. Is this a normal occurrence? Does it only occur during times of stress during dry seasons? Is it a regular source of protein, moisture or other nutrients? Is such damage replicated in other giraffe populations across the continent? This is just one example of the many questions that need to be answered when discussing the environmental impact, and subsequent management, of Botswana’s large herbivores and some of the continent’s most iconic animals. www.elephantswithoutborders.org; www.giraffeconservation.org
Toro Safari Lodge Botswana - Chobe - Kasane Area
“Come and enjoy your break on the banks of the Chobe River where 2 rivers and 4 African countries meet”
Contact details: Tel: +267 76 614 211 Email: kwalape@africasafaricamps.com
Situated in the Heart of Kasane we offer the following; » Chobe Full Day Trips – Options available » Victoria Falls Day Trips – Options available » Game Cruises | Game Drives | Fishing Trips Transfers to and from Vic Falls, Zambia and Namibia We can tailor make your safari to suit your specific needs be it a Game drive or Boat cruise. Our reservations team operates 24 hours a day to conveniently book your safari or just that simple enquiry you may have. All our guides are professional at what they do and they will leave a lasting impression of your visit to Botswana.
Time is for spending; spend it wisely with Chobezi Hylton Ross Touring Safari, and it will be time well spent.
• Chalets, ensuite with air con • Safari tents with shared ablution facilities • Private camp sites with shared ablution facilities
• Restaurant and sunset bar • Pool and bar area • Conference facility • Activities: Game drive, boat cruises, fishing, Vic Falls day trips
Kwalape means ‘at home’ in Setswana
Call us on +267 6250992, 6251667 Fax +267 6251297 Emergency 24 hour Mobile +267 76201918 E mail: info@chobezi.com / operations@chobezi.com / chobezi@yahoo.com
Accommodation Executive rooms, River Chalets, Standard Chalets, Private Ablutions, Campsites
Activities 3 hr game drive, sunset boat cruise into Chobe National Park and sunset boat cruise to where the four countries meet. Transfers to Victoria Falls. Tiger Fishing. Relax in our Restaurant & Bar PO Box 511, Kasane, Botswana Tel +(267) 6252694 Fax +(267)6252695 torolodge@botsnet.bw www.torolodge.co.bw
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32 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
COMMUNITY
Communities can win with wildlife By Perrin Banks African Wildlife Foundation
A new safari lodge successfully blends conservation and commerce while empowering the local community in a key wildlife area.
High average occupancies in the first year of operation of Ngoma Safari Lodge have been taken as a signal of the success of the strategy which created this joint venture initiative. Ngoma is the result of a partnership between the Chobe Enclave Conservation Trust and Ngoma Lodge PTY (Ltd), and was facilitated by the African Wildlife Foundation.
vista where kudu, buffalo, sable and roan antelope graze along the banks of the Chobe River. In this isolated part of rural Botswana bordering Chobe National Park, conservationists sat down with community leaders to design a future which would see both wildlife and people as winners.
Walking onto the terrace of Ngoma Safari Lodge, guests’ eyes gaze across a magnificent
Chobe Enclave Conservation Trust a community-based organisation which was
established to oversee the development and sustainable management of the local communities’ rich and varied ecosystem.The site for Ngoma was identified to establish a high-end facility to offer an exclusive and unforgettable experience in Africa’s wilderness - as a strategy to preserve the area’s abundant wildlife through income generation.
Ngoma Safari Lodge
Since its opening in May 2011, by Botswana President Lieutenant General Seretse Khama Ian Khama , Ngoma has enjoyed an average occupancy of 60%, a statistic the
Birding
In the third week of August we also carried out the annual Lesoma Valley White Backed Vulture nest count, which is an important indicator of the health of this species which was recently uplifted to ‘endangered’ status by the RSPB.
Birding in Chobe By Phil Zappala, BirdLife Kasane
It has been a fantastic couple of months of unusual bird sightings for our Chobe district, including several sightings of Grey Crowned Crane on Sedudu Island, Schalow’s Turaco on the waterfront and Lesser Flamingos on the western side of Chobe Riverfront. The Yellow Billed Kites and the Carmine Bee Eaters have returned which indicates the end of the cold winter months and the beginning of spring.
Birdlife Kasane has been busy. In July we carried out the Chobe National Park Waterbird Count, which begins at the Sedudu Old Park Gate and ends at Ngoma Bridge. This 60 kms stretch of river is split into six segments with each group counting and recording all waterbirds as well as birds of concern within their designated area. Participants included Birdlife members, the Department of Wildlife and National Parks, professional guides and NGOs. Local businesses also gave their support by providing transport for the day’s activities. The evening before the count, Professor Mark Vandewalle gave
Trust could not have realised alone, and one which has proven the successful balance of development and conservation. Meanwhile, the wildlife corridor between
White-faced Whistling duck
a lecture on bird identification and also a summary of Waterbird survey results 1991-2011. The talk gave insight into the spatial distribution and seasonality of different waterbird species, which appears to be intrinsically linked to the rise and fall of the flood waters and therefore availability of different types of food, rather than the distinct dry and wet season.
PHOTO:TOM VARLEY
In this July’s low flood water count White Faced Ducks were the most abundant species with 3 420 birds recorded, followed by Red Billed Teal with 3 040 birds. Some interesting sightings from the day included Slaty Egret, Pink-backed Pelicans and White-headed Vultures. The total number of waterbirds counted was 11 654.
This colony is especially important given recent reports of poisoning of carcasses which in turn has caused the poisoning of many vultures. The total number of active nests counted in 2012 was 76, compared with 100 counted in 2011, and 85 counted in 2010. These annual counts can identify significant trends in number of nests and distribution year after year.
Chobe National Park, home to the largest population of elephants in Africa, and the semi-protected areas surrounding Chobe Enclave are now also being protected. AWF continues to support the Trust post development of Ngoma Safari Lodge by providing business training and capacity building for community members in order to ensure long-term sustainability in handling such agreements. In this way, AWF is supporting CECT to realise the benefits from commercially viable conservation enterprises, as well as to develop potential strategies to leverage the land for conservation rather than convert the land for other, often unsustainable, uses. While Ngoma Safari Lodge offers tourists beautiful vistas, spectacular game viewing, and a wide range of activities, the Chobe Enclave is receiving the benefits needed through this conservation enterprise to build a sustainable future for its communities.
A big five safari destination! Kasane – Chobe – Botswana
Lodge and Camping Accommodation: A variety of options from family and twin rooms with ensuites in our lodges and camping. All amenities including a bar, restaurant and swimming pool. Activities: Chobe National Park game drives and boat cruises are available daily. Chobe Day trips from Victoria Falls or Livingstone include breakfast and a lunch cruise – an all day activity. Mobile safaris: Explore Chobe, Savuti, Moremi, Okavango, Nxai Pan, Makgadikgadi and Deception Valley. Choose from budget, semi participation, semi-luxury or tailor made safaris.
Telephone: +267 6250 995 / Fax: +267 6250 314 Email: thebe@chobenet.com / reservations@theberiversafaris.com
www.theberiversafaris.com
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 33
Development
Indulgence on safari PHOTOS: CRESTA GROUP
F
eaturing natural textures and ethnic elements, design elements in The Spa at Mowana are in harmony with the surrounding Chobe National park. Four private treatment rooms complement a raised deck overlooking the Chobe River. Open air sessions on the deck are highly recommended, with world class facilities and a range of treatments and therapies that have guests spoilt for choice.
“ We combine nature’s inherent healing and beautifying qualities with the latest technologies to create balance and harmony of body, mind and soul,” said a spokesperson for Mowana. “Guests can spend time in our private garden which features a large open-air heated relaxation tub, or take a deeply refreshing dip in the plunge and infinity pools. “Therapists are discreet and attentive to ensure that treatments are memorable. All the usual beauty and health
‘A serene space offering sanctuary from stress’ is how Mowana Safari Resort describes its newly opened spa, providing a full range of services and facilities for guests to be pampered, treated and exercised for a healthy and restorative safari.’ therapies are combined with unique African and Asian signature treatments, to ease away the stresses and strains of city living.” Spa facilities inc lude a fully-equipped g ym, heated spa bath, steam room, snack bar, relaxation room and private treatment rooms including a double treatment room with private Jacuzzi, ideal for couples. resmowana@cresta.co.bw
Vic Falls players take the Mowana Open By Grant Nel
One of the major sporting events to hit Kasane every year is the Mowana Open Golf Championship. This nationally sanctioned Stableford competition has been hosted by Cresta Mowana Safari Lodge and the Chobe Golf Club for the last four years and continues to build in strength and popularity.This year the field of 50 players was composed of golfers from all over Botswana as well the faithful contingent from Victoria Falls and Livingstone, while for the first time contestants from Lusaka and Johannesburg helped to swell the numbers. Cresta once again provided prizes for the 36-hole competition as well as a lavish buffet spread on Sunday afternoon, which
included a sheep on the spit. Special thanks must go to new sponsor Air Botswana for the two air tickets as prizes.The course was in excellent condition and proved to be a real challenge to the ‘out of town players’, particularly the desert golfers who found grass on a golf course rather a hindrance to their game! The set up of the pins and tee boxes was crucial to protecting the par (72) of this short but tight course, which appeared to be achieved as no golfer managed to score a net sub-par round over the two days.After Day One the ladies were led by Catherine Coxhead of Chobe Golf Club on 34 points, whilst Phanuel Mugomba from Elephant Hills Golf Club in Victoria Falls had the men chasing his score of 35 points. Sadly neither could maintain their good form and were pipped on Day Two by Catherine Chipungu from Elephant Hills G.C. on a total of 59 (32 & 27) and Raz
Experience the Mowana Safari Reso and Spa lifestyle. PHOTO: Grant Nel
By ZT correspondent
SPORT
Winners of the tournament, Catherine Chipungu and Raz Dube
Dube, also from Elephant Hills, on an excellent 67 points (31 & 36). Chobe Golf Club filled the runner up places for the ladies with Sharon Nel second and
Annie Rabinovitch third. John Swanepoel from Johannesburg and Daniel Mulder from Chobe G.C. brought in the men’s runner up places.
zambezi chobe
34 Travellers Friend Humour
Our Chobe columnist chirps about the world which has come, unbidden, to his doorstep By The Chobe Chirper
A
rdent followers of the Chobe Chirper (and judging by the f lood of fan mail to the editor there are at least two of you) will know that I am both proud and nostalgic about the tiny village of Kasane that I live in on the banks of the bright and sparkly Chobe River.
PHOTO: Peter Comley
The personal price of progress The queue of trucks waiting to cross the river on the ferry which the new bridge will alleviate
Proud because we boast the greatest wildlife on the planet (note to the editor: I think I might have mentioned that before so I won’t go into detail here). Nostalgic because when I moved here twenty two years ago to escape an expanding Maun, it was, in fact, a tiny village that hosted just four widely scattered lodges and three general dealers.
Now we have so many hotels, lodges, guest houses, B&Bs, campsites, supermarkets and speciality shops that the Chirper doesn’t have half enough toes and fingers to count them all, and more are being built as we continue to read. Soon, for the price of an education at Eton and Oxford, you will be able to buy a week’s holiday at the same time every year and listen to the constant drone of passing traffic as you balance precariously on the sofa to catch a glimpse of the distant bright and sparkly river. But this progress and development is not solely the province of the private sector. A new highway is nearing completion that will link Kasane to the world in the south and replace the endless series of potholes that infuriatingly destroyed all five of the Chirper’s rims on his convertible.
Zambezi Traveller
This arterial road will carry the heavy trucks that cart the nutrients to sustain the northern members of the SADC region to a new bridge that will soon span the confluence of the Chobe and Zambezi. It is reputed to be a replica of the famous Tokyo Bridge, but with a unique African twist. With an intransigent Zimbabwe opposing a soggy foot on her territory, it will be shaped like a banana to avoid offending Botswana’s eastern neighbour. This link, which is budgeted at US$260 million, is scheduled to be completed in just five years time. A large amount of money you might think, but it is dwarfed by the government’s plans to turn Pandamatenga into the food basket of the region.
At a cost US$1.5 billion, they plan to pump water from the bright and sparkly river to Pandamatenga for crop irrigation and then beyond to Gaborone to provide water to make beer for the flood of tourists that are expected when the current extension to the Kasane airport is completed. Before long it will be logistically possible, if not perhaps exactly financially feasible, to fly directly from Xiaodong in China to Kasane in a doubledecker Boeing for a cold pint. And the Chirper heaves a deep wistful sigh as he wonders, if he moved again, this time to the remote heart of the Kalahari, whether man’s creeping advancement would catch up with him there as well…
DEVELOPMENT
New shop in Kasane By ZT Correspondant
K
asane Electrical & Refrigeration opened their doors to the public on the 13th of August 2012. Stocking a wide range of electrical & refrigeration spares you can get anything from fridge compressors or refrigeration gas to house hold electrics wire as well as good prices and air cons freezers & fridges. Located at Plot 2163 Zambezi Road, Kasane. next to Albiak and opposite Ron’s Fresh Produce. Phone/Fax: 00267 6252833
Camping Safaris Transfers Educational Tours Lodge Accommodation Chobe Game Drives Boat Cruises and Fishing Victoria Falls Day Trips www.classifiedsafaris.com
Enviro911
Tel: +267 71691259 +267 71421153 +267 7253 7162, Kasane Botswana Email: classifiedsafaris@botsnet.bw bookings@classifiedsafaris.com
Community Vigilance for the Environmental Protection of Botswana’s Chobe District REPORT IMMEDIATELY
Active or suspected poaching activities Illegal environmental practices Pollution and littering incidents Orphaned or injured wildlife Bush fires Emergencies needing immediate response Enviro911 Hotline is available 24/7 CALL: (+267) 71224828 Email: 911@botsenviro911.org P.O. Box 570, Kasane , Botswana www.botsenviro911.org
Advertise in the Chobe Classifieds Karen Clemence
Accommodation
Automotive
Senyati Safari Camp. Nine SC thatched campsites with power and own ablutions. Three SC chalets, each sleep up to 4. Bar overlooking waterhole. Located 8km from Kazungula on Nata Road. Phone +267 718 81306 or +267 718 26709. www.senyatisafaricamp.co.bw Email: senyatisafaricamp@gmail.com
Auto World - Spare parts and accessories for all
Electrical & Refrigeration
FLAME DIVISION (PTY) LTD TRADING AS
Company Bookkeeping
Tour Operators
Catering to small and medium companies. All bookkeeping, Accounting and tax registration needs.
Bureau de Change Cape 2 Cairo Bureau de Change: Have
changed there email addresses! You can now reach them on the following: cape2cairo@botsnet.bw & cape2cairo.jo@botsnet.bw . Look forward to hearing from you.
Coffee Shop The Coffee Buzz is situated on the Kasane main
road in a beautiful secluded garden. We are fully licenced so come in and enjoy beer and wine with your meal. Menu includes: Breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers, muffins & daily specials. Open Monday to Saturday, 7.30am to 14.00pm. Contact us, facebook: coffee buzz Kasane, phone +267 71318956.
00267 71617602 or email us on bardot.botswana@gmail.com
Computers & Internet Kasane Computers. Internet café, WiFi zone,
photocopying, laminating, binding, typing, rubber stamps, ink cartridges, toners, CD/DVDs, PCs/ Laptops, printers, PC repairs and more. Offices – Audi Centre, Kasane (opp. Chobe Marina lodge) and Kazungula Junction (near Engen Garage). Phone +267 625 2313 or fax +267 625 2537 or email: info@kasanecomputers.com
Health & Wealth High Tech weight loss nutrition & personal care products. Be your own boss! Earn extra income. Isaac: 74325426/71801578 Herbalife independent distributor.
www.herbalife.com Email: Phikwechemele@yahoo.co.uk
For all your boat, outboard motor, spares & accessory requirements
BA
Contact: Susan TEL: 6251575 CELL: 74111891 Email: honda@africansecrets.net Located at the Kazungula Junction
Purified Water Bottling Aquarite Botswana: Manufacturers of purified bottled water and purified soda water. Refill your containers with purified water at a fraction of the cost. Based in Kasane (next to Tyremax in Kazangula) and Maun. Contact head office: +267 686 0283 or Lorraine +267 72989574
Tour Operators Serval Safaris NOW OFFERING
Boat cruises Game drives Day trips Fishing Camping Safaris Transfers
Contact:Webby Tel:6251575 Cell:71746274 Email:servel@africansecrets.net Located at the Kazungula Junction
Chobe Day Trips
Game drives, boat cruises, border pickup. Livingstone and Victoria Falls day trips Cultural village tours No 1 Lady Travel Agent Beside Spar complex, Kasane Ph: +267 625 0131 or +267 716 25521 jeilatravel@yahoo.co.uk joyce.chika@yahoo.com
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New company based in Kasane
P
KAZUNGULA INDUSTRIAL
Plot 2163 Zambezi Road Kasane. In the same complex as Albaik take away. Phone/Fax: (00267) 6252833 Email: mikeclemence@yahoo.com
Tour Operators
Auto Repairs
Contact Mike T: 71264875 / 73643003 Plot 37, Pula Road P.O.Box 755, Kasane. Botswana
Great prices on L.G & Dunham-Bush Air cons as well as L.G & Defy fridges, freezers, stoves, T.Vs, sound systems and much, much more.
ztchobe@gmail.com
NOW OPEN In Kazungula
SPECIALISE IN ALL VEHICLE REPAIRS MAINTENANCE AND OVERHAULS
For a wide range of electrical, refrigeration spares and equipment look no further! We stock compressors, capacitors, dryers, refrigeration gas, thermostats, expansion valves, invertors, basic household electrics, wire products, copper piping components and a whole lot more!
Honda Marine Agency
+267 72116479
local and imported vehicles. Opposite new bus rank, Kasane. Phone +267 625 2777, Fax +267 625 2666.
Contact Jo Clemence
Electrical & Refrigeration
+267 75968294 Jo Clemence
GK
96 Kasane Tel: 727
49
We provide the following; Chobe day trip - Game drive Boat cruise - Transfers to and from, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe Box 784 Kasane Tel: 6250753 Cell: 74796707 Email: pukusafaris@botsnet.bw Fax: 002676250754
mobile!
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The Z ambezi River is now officially online
The ZAmbezi traveller Now on the
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Travellers Friend 35
History
History of Chobe National Park – Part 10
PHOTO:
ZT’s Chobe historian features more extracts from the diary of a young Englishman who realized his boyhood dreams in Africa.
Rob Backus and assistant constructing temporary Game Department offices
By Judy Hepburn
O
ne of the many interesting cha racters who helped shape the Chobe Game Reserve in its infancy was a young Englishman named Rob Backus - as promised, I will share some of his early experiences. Born in Oxfordshire, England, in August 1946, Rob spent his early childhood in rural Devon. In 1964 he won a cadetship into the Royal Marines. He had to wait a year before taking it up and being an adventurous sort with a love of the outdoors he applied to the Voluntary Service Overseas. He was sent to the Bechuanaland Protectorate to work his year, and arrived in Francistown in September 1964 at age 18. While awaiting the arrival of the VSO officer he was to replace, he was invited to accompany the encumbent DC, Phil Steenkamp, up to Kasane and the newly opened Chobe Game Reserve. During this one short visit Rob was “bitten by the wildlife bug.” Later that year, Rob met a young game ranger by the name of Simon Holmes a Court. After a night around
Elephant herd by the Chobe River
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
the campfire listening in awe to Simon’s account of his daily duties in the Game Department, young Rob was determined to try and relocate. Simon had informed him of a vacancy in the department and Rob immediately set about “plotting his transition.” In early December of that year, much to his delight, he was “formally sworn in, issued with a notebook , handcuffs and a Winchester model 70 .375 plus 40 rounds of ammo (the complete thoroughly modern game ranger’s kit)” and found himself heading north to the Chobe district as a newly enrolled game ranger. At Chobe, Rob settled into the tented staff camp a few metres away from the game warden’s residence and department headquarters, which were in the process of being completed. The remains of these buildings are still visible just inside the reserve on the mainland opposite the western end of Sedudu Island. His patrol vehicle was a short wheelbase series 2 LandRover registration BPX 66. Along with Mike Slogrove (then assistant game warden), Rob “made several trips through the reserve planning roads and possible campsites
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
Kingfisher
learning all I could from them, was an unforgettable and privileged experience. The native names of animals, birds, plants and trees began to roll off my tongue, much to the amusement of my teachers
initially, but they were patient taskmasters and seemed to take genuine pride in my progress. I felt immensely fortunate to be their student, to be accepted at their fireside and to sleep on the Kalahari sand beside them.”
Natural & Sparkling
Add Some Color To Your Life!! Giraffe
and patrolling for poachers. We explored the Mababe Depression, Linyanti and Savuti channels as well as the hunting concessions outside the reserve. “These were wonderfully pristine and unspoilt areas of Africa without either pastoral and agricultural encroachment or the tourist lodges and traffic that were to come later.
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
Anti-poaching foot patrols were also conducted regularly by game scouts and from time to time I would go with them, walking for miles on end in the soft Kalahari sand between the pans, both water and salt, that attracted both game and poachers!
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“The nights around the fire listening to my game scouts reliving the day’s events and
Kasane
Tel: + (267) 625 1039 Cell: + (267) 73297141 Email: chobegem@gmail.com website: www.chobegem.co.bw www.facebook.com/chobegem Administrative Headquaters Gaborone Tel/Fax: 3164584 Cell: + (267) 73297149
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Zambezi News
caprivi & kavango TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
36
Conservation
Cheetah Centre leads the way By Dr Laurie Marker
N
amibia is home to 25% of all wild cheetahs in the world, estimated at about 10,000 in 23 African countries and a few in Iran. More than 90% live outside protected areas on private land. Consequently, cheetah in Namibia remain threatened by some farmers who still view them as a threat to their livestock and game.
CCF ’s centre features ongoing scientific research programmes run alongside the day-to-day work of a model farm, as well as a facility for orphaned or injured cheetah. CCF’s research of cheetah biology and ecology includes physical examinations, laboratory analyses, radio-tracking and survey techniques including camera trapping and the use of scat detection dogs. CCF has worked with over 800 cheetahs, giving each
Dr Laurie Marker taking cheetah statistics
PHOTO: Jane Horgan
Cheetah sharpening its claws
a full medical examination and taking samples for its database, which includes a Genome Resource Bank with over 300 cheetah sperm samples as well as blood and tissue samples. Over 600 cheetahs have been released back into the wild, and those with radio collars provide valuable data on movements of cheetahs and home-range sizes that assists with mitigating farmer conflict and re-introduction programmes in areas where cheetahs have become extinct. Since 1994, CCF has bred and donated nearly 400 Anatolian Shepherd and Kangal dogs to farmers to protect
their livestock. CCF conducts training programmes for local farmers as well as conservation scientists from other cheetah-range countries.
an experience you will seldom encounter on the African continent. Tel +264 66 259093 Cell: +264 813101730 Fax +264 66 259094 Fax to email: 088610233 Email: bookings@nundaonline.com www.nundaonline.com
Visit www.cheetah.org Email: CCFinfo@iway.na
Rivers as well as in the 300 km2 Lake Liambezi.
Seeking answers on the future of fish By Olaf L.F. Weyl
ish from the Zambezi River are used by a variety of people, from small children catching fish with reed fishing rods from roadside culverts for fun, to commercial net fishermen and recreational anglers. These latter and the tourist industry that they support are an important component of the Zambezi fisheries. The cleaner in a fishing lodge is as much part of the fishing industry as the gill net fisherman in his makoro. Of all the habitats used by fishes and fishers, floodplains are the most productive. The fisheries of the Caprivi floodplain
PHOTO: CCF
If wild populations continue to decline, and habitat conservation efforts fail, the cheetah could face extinction within two decades. CCF is determined to continue collecting and studying critical data from cheetah, and to develop effective conservation techniques so that the oldest species of big cat does not disappear forever.
RESEARCH
F
Kavango/Caprivi, Namibia
In Namibia, farmers have grown increasingly tolerant towards cheetahs on their lands. Model programmes pioneered by CCF in Namibia
have been adopted in Kenya, Botswana, South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Niger, South Sudan, Algeria and Iran. As an integral part of its education and conservation programmes, CCF opens its Field Research and Education Centre near Otijwarongo to the public to learn about the cheetah’s race for survival. Guests can watch cheetahs run or take a cheetah photo safari, visit CCF’s clinic and genetics laboratory and can stay at Babson Guest House.
PHOTO: Olaf L.F. Weyl
The Cheetah Conservation Fund is an international organisation based in northcentral Namibia, the heart of cheetah country, and has worked actively with the farming community for over 20 years to develop livestock and game management practices that are ‘predator friendly.’ At the heart of CCF ’s programming is its worldrenowned Field Research and Education Centre.
Richard Peel
provide a livelihood for an estimated 3 600 households from Namibia alone, while in Botswana and Zambia, communities along the rivers and floodplains are also heavily reliant on fish for subsistence and commercial gain. A long-term research programme on the Zambezi River has shown that the stocks of the important commercial fish species are now overexploited. Livelihoods, already vulnerable to the effects of environmental variability on fish abundance, are under threat. Management intervention is therefore particularly urgent. In Namibia, a partnership between government agencies,
national and international research organisations and NGOs is currently working on developing strategies for the long term sustainable utilisation of the Caprivi fisheries. The Namibia Nature Foundation is coordinating a project to develop sustainable management systems t h ro u g h c o n s e r v a n c i e s and fishing communities. Researchers of the Namibian Ministry of Fisheries and Marine Resources are collaborating with scientists from the University of Namibia and the South African Institute for Aquatic Biodiversity.The project is a long-term assessment of the state of fish populations in the upper Zambezi, Kavango, Kwando and Chobe
The work is supported not only through Namibia Government funding but also by organisations such as the WWF, the Nedbank GO-Green Fund, the South African National Research Foundation, a nd NORAD. Based in the Caprivi, Richard Peel and Evans Simasiku are at the forefront of the research, conducting surveys to independently assess if and by how much the fisheries have changed over the last ten years. They are also working on the biology of important species, particularly the larger breams. Their results will be used to determine what mesh sizes should be used and what harvest levels are sustainable. The success of any management strateg y ultimately depends on how effectively it is implemented. We will keep you updated on research results and other news from these projects in the future.
Zambezi News
kariba & middle-zam 37 TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River ANGLING
Tiger mania rises!
Early morning start
PHOTOS: MANA MEADOWS
toward increasing the interactivity of the tournament.
By Mana Meadows
I
t’s tiger time again with this year’s Kariba Invitation Tiger Fish Tournament promising to be as much of a carnival as ever. The event takes place from 17 – 19 October.
Family Affair
Kariba Invitation Tiger Fish Tournament 2012 welcomes two new Gold sponsors to the ranks, Bols and Mega Toasted, joining Nissan Zimbabwe and Zambezi. Following last year’s special 50th Anniversary event (268 teams entered, with 235 teams catching 7.5 tons of fish), considerable interest has been generated.
Organizers expect an increase in entries from teams from outside of Zimbabwe, but locals and internationals will all have to contend with team Remington Gold, who convincingly won last year’s event and then went on to win the prestigious Test of the Best event in February 2012.
“As a committee our drive is to ensure that that every angler enjoys the competition as much as possible and that the sponsors benefit from the tournament as much as possible,” said event media manager David Whitehead. “We have launched a new website (www. kitft.co.zw) which is geared
“At the website’s ‘Long Bar’ section, people are invited to post memories associated with past tournaments or deliver well wishes to anglers competing this year. In addition, we’re asking people to send in their photos from past events and share them with everybody. “With the high volume of traffic the website sees, this will provide more mileage for individual team sponsors. Website traffic will peak in October with thousands of visitors to the site anticipated.”
This year will see improvements including slicker organization of the weigh-bay area and increased coverage of scores and videos of the day’s events within the weigh bay area. Copies of last year’s DVD are available for download and interested parties can visit the website to find out more. Anglers are reminded that there will be a ban on practicing and pre-baiting (chumming) from 17 September to 13 October. Visit www.kitf.co.zw
Tiger time ahead!
17 - 19 October Website: www.kitft.co.zw
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38 Travellers Friend Conservation
Spot the difference T
he recently founded Cheeta h Conser vation Project Zimbabwe has started to collect cheetah pictures and sightings to help to conserve the wild cheetahs in the country. Using unique distinctive features within the spot pattern, the project will identify individuals to gather information on the cheetah population nationwide.
The Cheetah Conservation Project Zimbabwe uses photographic identifi-
Conservation
Caring for Kariba’s wildlife
ment Authority recognizes the importance of the conservation of cheetah and has not only granted it a special protected status (meaning it can’t be killed or moved without special permission), but has also outlined a conservation strategy for the species in a National Conservation Action Plan.
By Dr Esther van der Meer
If you think all cheetahs look the same, check again! Although at first sight you might not see any differences, at second sight you will find that each cheetah has unique features within its spot pattern. Recognition of individual animals allows researchers to carry out detailed investigations of population densities, distribution, movement patterns, home range use, lifespan and reproduction.
Zambezi Traveller
Male cheetah
cation as a simple non invasive method to identify individual cheetahs. Sightings and pictures of cheetahs from all over Zimbabwe will be added to the National ID database. Cheetah once occurred throughout Zimbabwe, but is now believed to be largely absent from the north and east of the country. Unfortunately there is little data available on the occurrence of this shy and
elusive carnivore and estimates of the number of cheetah in Zimbabwe range between 100 and 1500 animals. Worldwide there are fewer than 10,000 adult cheetahs left in the wild. As a result, this beautiful spotted felid has officially been classified as ‘vulnerable,’ meaning they face a high risk of extinction in the wild. The Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Manage-
In order to successfully conserve cheetahs in the country it is agreed that knowledge on the biology of the Zimbabwean cheetahs needs to be improved. Which is exactly why the Cheetah Conservation Project Zimbabwe has set up the National ID data base. You can help to increase the knowledge on cheetah in Zimbabwe by sending your (old) sightings and pictures to cheetah@cheetahzimbabwe.org. HNP 2008-2012 : 33 sightings, home range only male cheetah in area, death unknown, three days later new cheetah cheetah@cheetahzimbabwe.org.
Kariba Animal Welfare Fund Trust was established in July 2010 by a concerned group of Kariba residents for the purpose of raising funds for, and awareness of the area’s beleaguered wildlife. By Debbie Ottoman
A plea was sent out for donations to purchase a dart gun, supporting equipment, drugs and the fee to put a resident through a darting course. The response from the
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PHOTO: KAWFT
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public was fantastic. Now the Trust, along with Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, can follow up any reports of an injured or distressed animal and if darting and / or medication is required, this can be dealt with immediately. In August 2011, KAWFT launched its anti-snare patrol in conjunction with ZPWMA. Again the response from the public has been good. By July 2012, in excess of 800 snares had been recovered (1200 counting a bundle of cut wire). An 80 metre roll of heavy wire was also found, which would have yielded 35 odd snares if cut and laid. In August 100 metres of similar wire was again found. On all these projects, help, encouragement and guidance has been received from the Parks & Wildlife Area Manager, and the Trust works closely with the Authority on some of these enormous tasks. A Memorandum of Understanding with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Authority has been drafted and should be completed soon. With the continued response from the public and businesses in Zimbabwe and internationally, the Trust has refurbished one of ZPWMA’s patrol boats. The Park’s fleet is in dire need of attention and the Trust will respond as and when resources allow. Patrol boats and vehicles are the mainstay of anti-poaching on land and lake. See Zambezi Traveller online directory for more information on KAWFT.
THE SOUTHERN BELLE HAS THREE DECKS OFFERING 21 EN-SUITE CABINS AS WELL AS A CONFERENCE ROOM FOR UP TO 40 PEOPLE, LOBBY, SUNDRY SHOP, RESTAURANT AND BAR, SWIMMING POOL AND TOP DECK WITH BAR. IDEAL FOR BOTH LEISURE AND BUSINESS CRUISES WITH SPECTACULAR VIEWS, STUNNING SUNSETS AS WELL AS A RANGE OF ACTIVITIES OR WONDERFUL RELAXING HOLIDAYS JUST SOAKING UP THE SUNSHINE. WHEN DOCKED AT THE BAY THE RESTAURANT ON BOARD THE SOUTHERN BELLE IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC; RESERVATIONS ESSENTIAL. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT OUR RATES OR BOOKINGS, PLEASE CONTACT US ON +260 211 254 605 OR EMAIL reservations@proteahotels.co.zm PLOT 517 SIAVONGA, LAKE KARIBA, ZAMBIA | TEL: +260 211 511 638 | FAX: +260 211 511 639 EMAIL: reservations@phsouthernbelle.co.zm | proteahotels.com/southernbelle
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 39
History
The bell of Santa Barbara By Wild Zambezi
On the trail of a modern legend
H
ow a little girl was healed when her father made the bell for Kariba’s Church of Santa Barbara. Please help us find the Holy Card that tells this story. Wild Zambezi received an unusual message from one Francesca Mungiardi, an Italian wanting to track down a very specific Holy Card issued by the Catholic fathers and sisters of the Church of Santa Barbara. This beautiful and unusual place of worship was built above the town of Kariba, on top of the hill known as Kariba Heights, by Italian workers involved in the construction of Kariba Dam in the 1950s. Here is her request:“Hi, I’m Francesca and I’m from Italy. My request might be a bit strange, but I’m looking for a Holy Card of Santa Barbara, distributed in Africa (to be precise in Kariba in Rhodesia then) between the years 1950 and 1960. The Holy Card is in Italian, as it was released by the fathers and the sisters of the Catholic mission of Kariba, for the Italian workers who built the Kariba Dam and the Church of Santa Barbara. I know for sure that almost all the Italians had the Holy Card of Santa Barbara, because as miners and builders of dams, she was their saint. There are different versions and I’d settle for any one of them, but if I could choose I’d like to find one that has the following inscription on the back: EDMONDO HA COSTRUITO UNA CAMPANA E LA PICCOLA ANGELA E’ MIGLIORATA. Roughly translated, this means ‘Edmund constructed a church bell and little Angela was healed.’ Can you please help me find it? For me it is very important. Here is the story that the Holy Card tells:-
‘The heart was heavy for Edmund in Kariba, where he worked far away from
Kariba’s church of Santa Barbara
his native country. He had received bad news. In Italy his young daughter Angela was seriously ill. Edmund wrung his hands. What could he do? In desperation he turned to his friend and colleague, Lino the mechanic. Sharing his friend’s grief, Lino thought that perhaps the Good Lord would be merciful, if they did something for Him. Lino’s eyes lit up, an idea was forming. Quickly taking his friend aside, he said ‘We will make a bell for the glory of God, then maybe little Angela will be better.’ So Edmund and Lino went to work with a will.Their compatriots and co-workers joined them. After each long day was over, they worked at the bell during their leisure time. It had to be the usual church bell, but it had to be large enough to be heard across the valley of Kariba. It was made out of a piece of machinery that had been used to crush the ground. It was three feet high when it was finished, painted in silver, shining in the African sun. And now where should it be hung? This was the problem. At first they thought of the school, but they decided on the African church on the hill. So the bell was moved with a crane up to the top of the hill where it was hung in a tower built specially for it. At last the great moment arrived. For the first time the bell rang in Kariba to the wonder of Europeans and Africans together.
THE REEL BIG ONE!
PHOTO: SONYA MACMASTER
But their surprise was nothing compared to the news from Italy. Little Angela was well again. If you visit the delightful Church of Santa Barbara on top of the hill at Kariba Heights, take a walk around the back of the church and you can clearly see the bell tower with its huge bell in place. If you have any information that might help Francesca find this Holy Card, please e-mail. francescamungiardi@gmail.com
Competition
Save Mana Pools – logo competition The “Save Mana Pools” campaign is running a contest to create a new logo. “ The “Save Mana Pools” campaign is running a logo contest on Facebook at www. facebook.com/SaveMana. The objective is to come up with a logo concept that can be used to brand the online campaign and be further used in print, on websites, stickers, posters, T-shirts and caps etc. The one prize is open to Zimbabwean schools only. It’s a $1000 donation to the best entry in the “Save Mana Pools” logo contest from a Zimbabwean school that makes at least 3 submissions in the name of the school. This specific prize is on offer from Zambezi Safaris in the UK. Contest details are available at ht tp://w w w.facebook.com/SaveMana/ app_326243490804979.”
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40 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
WILDLIFE
The clash of the Titans
A buffalo, separated from its herd, is singled out by the lionesses of the resident pride at Bumi Hills. By Luke Brown
The buffalo scrambles and leaps through dense mopane thicket in a desperate attempt to reach the grassy flood plain beyond and the relative safety that the rest of the herd will provide. Hungry and ready to take on a prey far too big to be tackled alone, the hunters must rely on their experience and teamwork to bring the buffalo down. The energy they need to expend is enormous and efforts such as this are only undertaken when the potential rewards are greatest. Their first success was in getting the buffalo alone and disoriented in the tree line. Closing in, the lionesses need
a last burst of strength to bring their meal to the ground. Buoyed by the sight of the open flood plain and the protection of the herd just metres away, the buffalo makes one last herculean effort and kicks out ferociously at its attackers. The lionesses are thrown off and distance opens between hunters and hunted. For the buffalo, the open ground ahead brings the sweet smell of survival. It catches the rest of the herd, who welcome back their member. As a unit, they turn to face the lionesses, presenting a formidable force and turning the tables on the hunters. The battle is won by the buffalo, but the war will never end. This is nature at its finest! reservations@bumihills.com
ZAMBEZI TRADER
PHOTOS: Nicholas Milne
Lionesses latch onto the buffalo whilst another circles round; if it can grip the buffalo’s nose in its jaws the prey will suffocate.
The lionesses manoeuvre into position, whilst for the buffalo the only chance of escape is in the open flood plains beyond.
The buffalo makes good its escape.
The buffalo herd turns to face their enemy in an act of defiance.
Exhausted, the pride returns to the cool shade of the mopane thicket.
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Travellers Friend 41
SPORT
Family fun on their feet By ZT correspondent
ZT : August is the month of marathons along the Zambezi, and they are definitely growing in popularity. How was attendance this year compared to previous years? SM : Attendance at the Lake Harvest event was up overall on last year. We had more entrants for the 10 kms fun run this year and slightly less 21 kms entrants. Some cancelled because of a bad flu bug going around – others said our hills are too tough! ZT : What do you think is so special about the Kariba Marathon? SM : We make it a fun family weekend where the whole family can join in, with the 21 kms, 10 kms and 1.5 kms baby race – and we cater for the kids with a water slide, jumping castle and for the adults and older kids, a mechanical bull! ZT : What were the highlights this year? SM: Steven Mazhingi made a guest appearance and we had some really great prizes
ZT managed to catch up with one of the organisers of the Lake Harvest Kariba Half Marathon, Fun Run and Walk. donated this year. The baby race was very well attended and we had a lot more entries this year among the little ones. They were very competitive and each one got a bag of sweets for their efforts. ZT : Where did most of your contestants come from? SM : Most of our entrants were from Harare. ZT : Are you attracting the serious runners? SM : We had some of
Zimbabwe’s finest athletes enter this year – Freddy Kashiri, Moses Njozi, Nkosiyazi Sibanda, to name a few. ZT : How big do you think this event can become? SM : We aim to be a family event, so we hope to keep numbers pretty similar to what they are now. ZT: Tell us about the winners. SM : 21kms - first place went to Johnathan Chinyoka in a time of 1.05.39. Second place place went to Nkosiyazi
Left: First man was Johnathan Chinyoka Right; First lady home was Muchaneta Gwata The perfect shot
Sibanda in a time of 1.06.13. Third place went to Michael Ngaseki in a time of 1.06.53. F irst lady home was Muchaneta Gwata in a time of 1.20.33. Second lady home was Olivia Chitate in a time of 1.22.50. We also had a wheelchair athlete, Edmund Mukutiya who finished in a respectable 1.54.21. ZT : Dates for next year? SM : We will confirm later in the year but the dates will likely fall over Zimbabwe’s August long weekend.
Photography
The elephant whisperer By Christopher Scott Being a photographer and passionate about a particular animal or place is both a blessing and a curse. However hard you try, you can never turn off the ‘I wish’ voice that whispers things like ‘I wish that elephant would move a bit to his right;’‘I wish I could get a picture of this and that.’
PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER SCOTT
The voice is a torment, but on one fine day in Kariba I was able to silence at least one whisper in my mind’s eye, a signature shot that encapsulates Kariba for me; the elephants and the breathtaking sunsets. It was a tense 15 minutes or so, as I had lined myself up in the best spot to capture the sunset in the trees while the elephant was happily munching some of the newly exposed grasses a short way off. All I needed was him to move a bit to his right! Eventually some mental willpower and a few shorter fingernails later, he did, allowing me a few whisperfree moments of bliss..
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
42 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Conservation
Fighting on - the story of Lisa the rhino By Mark Brightman
T
his was as a result of the devastating rhino poaching which was ongoing throughout that region. They were to be moved into ‘safer’ areas, away from the Zambezi Valley, where they were extremely vulnerable to poachers infiltrating from Zambia at that time. The calves were initially placed under the care and management of the Style family – Lowveld pioneers in cattle and game ranching in their own right. As a result of these rhino re-introductions, this prompted the formation of the Chiredzi River Conservancy (CRC), which was officially formed in September 1989, largely through initiatives by other well-known Lowveld conservationists including Tore Ballance, Rob Style, George Hulme and John and Jill Osborne. By 1992 three out of the four females had conceived – this was even more remarkable considering this was over the period whereby the Lowveld was experiencing one of the worst droughts in living memory. And by February 2007, their black rhino population had increased to 29 animals – a phenomenal breeding success, and one of the highest breeding rates recorded anywhere in Africa. Sadly, it was not to remain so, and inevitably the rhino poaching which had spread throughout Z imbabwe, reached the CRC in that same year. All in the relentless quest for rhino horn, to cater for the growing and seemingly insa-
In September 1987, eight black rhino calves (4 males and 4 females), all estimated to be around two years of age, were moved from the Zambezi Valley to the Chiredzi River Conservancy in Zimbabwe’s South-East Lowveld. tiable demand in the Far East for use in traditional medicine. Another very real added threat was the increased snaring, taking place. These snares were usually manufactured from steel cables, several strands thick, set along game paths indiscriminately to catch any victim who was unfortunate enough to get caught – usually by the neck or a leg. This caused horrendous injuries and a painful death followed, as the animal pulled and strained to break free – resulting in the wire cutting deeper and deeper into flesh and bone. This is exactly what befell Lisa, an 8 month old female black rhino calf. Fortunately, rhino monitors employed to closely keep a check on rhino movements and numbers, were quick to discover her in this condition. She was found resting under a shady tree, with her mother in close proximity. Her injury was serious – her right hand back leg was twice its normal size. In her struggles, she had obviously managed to break free, but not before the wire had cut deep into her leg – almost to the bone. She had to be treated as soon as possible. Dr. Chris Foggin, renowned wildlife veterinarian and specialist in rhino immobilisations, and Lisa was duly darted with immobilising drugs and the snare removed. The injury was
very deep and serious. Sadly, but due to the serious nature of her wound, the decision was taken to remove her for ‘foster-care’. She was moved to nearby Buffalo Range Headquarters, where she was put under the expert care of Janey Style. Janey had another black rhino calf already there, whose mother had been shot by poachers and the calf had also sustained a gunshot wound through the shoulders and her face had been chopped by an axe, sustained whilst she gallantly tried to protect her dead mother. The two young rhino bonded together and under Janey’s loving care, started to slowly heal from their traumatic encounters with man. The experts predicted that she would not survive. After receiving this very depressing news, Janey nevertheless continued to treat the wounds with topical dressings to promote granulated scar tissue so as to close the open wound. With constant care Lisa recovered well, and amazingly, the use of antibiotics was never needed. Through Janey’s incredible care, Lisa has since fully recovered, against all odds, and is once more living the life of a free, wild rhino with Carla at her side, in a betterprotected area of the country.
Dr. Foggin attending to Lisa
The injury in December 2007
Leg Injury 18 Apr 2008
Carla & Lisa at feed
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WILD LIFE
Circus tricks in nature By Frances Jackson
T
he Mcheni Bull in Mana Pools National Park is the master of the circus trick of standing on his hind legs to reach for Albida leaves and pods. This acrobatic endeavour is practiced by a select group of elephants in Mana Pools and is unusual behaviour in Zimbabwe. The Mcheni Bull is recognized by his impressive tusks and his five bull apprentices who are always in close proximity. Walking with a professional guide will assist visitors interested in this impressive elephant behavior. The browse line of the trees gets higher and higher as the dry season progresses and it is only the talented larger bulls who can reach the tastiest morsels. w w w. z a m b e z i t r a v e l l e r. c o m to see a video clip of one of the apprentices in action. Video taken by Daniel Obreja, visitor from Romania.
PHOTO: Humphrey Gumpo
TOURISM
Mana Pools By Frances Jackson A trip to Mana Pools was well overdue. My children were wondering if I had forgotten about this spot along the Zambezi. I am a happy camper, but I do get a little nervous in places like Mana and it definitely feels safer with a man around, and quite secure when he is armed with a .458 rifle. I was ready to enjoy three full days with the children and professional guide Dardley Tafuruka of Tailormade Safaris. Over the years we have enjoyed camping along the Zambezi in the Mana area with friends and family, but never before have we been privileged enough to go with a guide. For all of us it was a thrill to walk quietly, single file, behind a guru of the bush. The children were enthralled with having the circle of life explained, everything from ants crawling along the ground, birds flitting past, bushes, trees, pods, skeletal remains, relationships between various animal species and, on the last day, seeing lions on foot.
Dardley Tafuruka, Tailormade Safaris
We walked twice a day. It was an early morning wake-up, 05.30 am, and off we went for five hours of seeing our surrounds by vehicle and on foot. Tea, coffee and homemade muffins on the banks of the Zambezi were a welcome break. The chatter was non-stop as the children bombarded Dardley with questions. Home for a generous brunch at 11.30 and then snoozing, reading and lounging around in our comfortable campsite until tea-time at 15.30, and off for our afternoon game drive and walk. Evenings were spent chatting about the day around the fire after a satisfying three course meal. I am at a loss for words to describe Mana. Standing and slowly doing a 360 degree turn, there are animals to be seen everywhere.
PHOTO: Humphrey Gumpo
Our list includes hyaena, wild dog, buffalo, eland, waterbuck, impala, jackal, baboon, kudu, hippo, elephant and a pride of lion with cubs. We saw the most magnificent kudu bull that strolled through the park looking like the king of all he surveyed. The Mcheni Bull and his five apprentice elephants, one of whom reached for the treats in the trees on his hind legs was a definite highlight. Mana is harsh, fragile and spectacular, and a World Heritage Site. Camping in comfort, having meals prepared, and most importantly walking silently through the park with an expert is a highly recommended way of experiencing a very special destination.
Linking Kariba and Victoria Falls
Sit back relax and let us do the driving Tel: ZIM +263 4 614 162-7 Tel: RSA + 27 21 556 6965 Email: karibaferries@zol.co.zw Skype: kariba.ferries 2011 SAILING DATES HAVE BEEN POSTED SEE WEBSITE www.karibaferries.com
Travellers Friend 43
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
44 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Conservation
Fighting for the future By Pat Townsend
“We don’t want our future generations to read about tigerfish in a book.” The words are from Tapson Chibayamagora, team leader of the Gache Gache Environment Protection Services. “Within the first four months of our operations, we started to control illegal activities in this area. We are fighting for our heritage and we will continue to do so.” For Tapson, a locally-born Tonga, a typical day starts at sunrise in the field looking for snares and trapped animals. Anything up to 60 snares a day can be located, dismantled and destroyed. As the sun sets,
the night watch on the water starts. A patrol can be from four to seven days out in the bush and on the water. The Gache Gache community anti-poaching team started patrolling in October 2010 and on their first night they caught 19 poachers, and confiscated seven boats and illegal nylon nets which stretched for kilometres in the water. To date, the unit has successfully arrested 200 poachers, impounded 120 illegal boats and burnt their nylon nets so that they cannot be used again. A number of successful convictions have resulted in jail terms, fines and severe warnings. Word is now out within
Situated in the eastern basin of Lake Kariba on the banks of the Gache Gache River.
the local community area, and positive results are being seen in the Gache Gache Wilderness Area. Wildlife has come back into the area and the populations of fish have noticeably risen. Rod and line fishing has improved dramatically with catches now equalling those of ten years ago. Illegal poachers and fishermen can net large amounts of fish and destroy the natural breeding sanctuary for fish in the Sanyati River system. Illegal catches of 10 tonnes and more a day are no exaggeration. Local fishermen with legal licences in the area
became concerned about the fish poaching as it was also impacting their own livelihoods, and sent a group of four community representatives to Gache Gache Lodge for assistance. The Lodge responded positively and to date has supported them with uniforms, boats and motors, fuel and vehicles to transport them around the area and take poachers to the Kariba police station. Local National Parks, Nyaminyami Rural District Council, police and the surrounding community are all working together, despite limited resources.
In the past month, Environment Protection Services has experienced an increase in poaching activities, both for fish and animal life, probably due to the completion of harvest in the rural areas. Without their crops to attend to, poachers are coming from as far as Magunje. Poachers have also started using pit traps to kill buffalo and hippo along with anything else that happens to fall in. Deep trenches are covered with a light camouflage of grass and leaves which gives way under the weight of the animal.
equipment, cooking utensils, fuel, etc. The anti-poaching teams are volunteers from the local community, doing their bit for conservation and putting their lives at risk for their children’s future. One scout has had his arm broken by a poacher’s assault with an oar. Fuel is a major expense, used for boat and vehicle patrols as well as moving poachers and their confiscated boats to the police in Kariba, together with team leader Tapson, who then has to appear in court later to testify, 160 kms round trip each time.
EPS relies solel y on donations for uniforms, food, camping and boating
Contact townsend@zol.co.zw
“The Matusadona National Park is to my mind a unique ecosystem; given that the lake itself is only 53 years old, it is still very much an evolving ecosystem,” said Kevin Higgins, director and shareholder. “ The rivers and streams that drain the Matusadona Mountains into the lake create stunning terrain against a back drop of magnificent mountains whose hue is forever changing with the seasons. “The diversity of mountains, riverine vegetation and mopane flat lands is unprecedented. The area is home
to the big five, as well as a broad spectrum of plains game and luxuriant birdlife. More than 240 species of birds have been recorded in the park, and Kariba shoreline is inundated with water fowl. This is an unspoiled and relatively unexplored piece of paradise.”
gachegachelodge@chapungusafaris.co.zw
Development
Changa to open in October By ZT Correspondent
P
reparations are on schedule for a new safari camp to open in October on the south shore of Lake Kariba
Comfortable Chalets with panoramic views. Tiger Fishing, Game viewing by boat or vehicle, guided walks, canoeing, sun downer cruises. Gache Gache is known for its abundant wildlife and is a birding paradise. Rates include all activities, full board and laundry. Cash bar. The lodge is accessible by boat, road and air. Please enquire and we will gladly arrange all your travel or transfer requirements to suit your individual needs. Contact Details
Chapungu Safaris t/a Gache Gache Lodge 19 John Plagis Avenue, New Alexandra Park , Harare, Zimbabwe Tel: 00 263 4 745 717/745 762 Cell: 00 263 772 285 691 Email: bernie@chapungusafaris.co.zw Web: www.gachegachelodge.com / www.chapunguzim.com Skype: bernie.styles
Development of Changa Safari Camp, an exclusive up-market tented property in Matusadona National Park, is at an advanced stage and the camp will open to the public on 1 October 2012. The camp is situated on the eastern most peninsula of ‘flat land’ below the Matusadona Mountains, between the Ume and Sanyati rivers. Accommodation will consist of six luxury tents catering for 12 adults and up to six children on an all inclusive basis. Guests will
be offered the opportunity to explore the national park by boat, vehicle and on foot, as well as test their hand at fishing for the renowned tigerfish. The tents will be truly luxurious and include a spacious bedroom featuring an outside bath and shower as well as options indoors. Each tent has a commanding and private view of the majestic Matusadona Mountains across the lake. The central areas include a diningroom, lounge and library, bar, swimming pool and pool deck, and private beach.
Exclusive by Nature Tel: (+263 4) 498835-6 Fax: (+263 4) 498480 Mobile: (+263 77) 222 0641 reservations@changasafaricamp.com www.changasafaricamp.com
Visit reservations@changasafaricamp.com; http://www.facebook.com/ pages/Changa-SafariCamp/306052149444188
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 45
AWARENESS
Mining threat causes outrage By The Zambezi Society
C
onservation organisation The Zambezi Society issued a public statement on 12 August expressing deep concern about a threat of mining exploration in major tributaries of the Zambezi River in the Mana Pools / Sapi / Chewore area, which is one of four World Heritage Sites in Zimbabwe. The Zambezi Society called on its supporters and lovers of these wilderness areas to rally in strong opposition with the clear message “No compromise. No mining in a World Heritage Site!” UNESCO’s World Heritage Committee has been alerted and the Society is lobbying Zimbabwean ministers and Parliamentary Committees with the message.
Rukomechi River Bridge
Media reports and petitions against the threat are appearing in the local and international media. The international tourism industry is issuing statements of alarm, and these could well impact upon next year’s meeting of the United Nations World Tourism Organisation to be hosted by Zambia and Zimbabwe in Livingstone and Victoria Falls in August 2013.
PHOTO:Warren Willis
A social media Facebook page called Save Mana Pools which successfully campaigned three years ago against an environmentally unsuitable hotel development on the Zambian side of the Zambezi River opposite Mana Pools, has been re-launched to campaign against the mining threat. The Zambezi Society statement said: “The Mana Pools
Community
The Red Hot Chilli Workshops By Sarah Davies
M
ost of the local communities re sid i ng c lose to the Lower Zambezi National Park rely on subsistence farming for a livelihood and to feed their families. However they have to deal with bigger pests than most other farmers – elephants. Due to human encroachment on elephant ranges, human elephant conflict is a significant problem. After the rains elephants love to feed on nutritious crops and can easily destroy an entire harvest in one night. Most farmers in the Lower Zambezi are still using ineffective traditional methods to protect fields against crop-raiding elephants, such as banging drums and throwing stones. Not only are these methods unsuccessful, they are also very dangerous.
Farmers in the Lower Zambezi learn how to use chillies to protect their crops from elephants.
Women making bricks
If this fails, local wildlife authorities are called in to control the problem elephant. It is often difficult to correctly identify the offending animal and a token elephant is killed to appease the local communities. The South Luangwa Conservation Society is currently running a project with farm-
PHOTO: CLZ
ers using chillies, the smell of which is highly irritating to elephants, to build fences and make fuel blocks to burn to protect crops. SLCS have assisted Conservation Lower Zambezi to learn from their successes and CLZ is developing a similar scheme. In July, CLZ organised a workshop for 30 farmers in
/ Sapi / Chewore region not only encompasses one of Zimbabwe’s largest National Parks and two Safari Areas, but is also internationally recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site with “Outstanding Universal Value,” a Biosphere Reserve, an international Important Bird Area, and a vital component of a proposed Trans Frontier Conservation Area. “ We believe that there should be no mining (prospecting or exploration included) in this area because of potential impacts on its biodiversity, wildlife and sensitive eco-systems, which are globally important, and on its wilderness areas which are valuable to international tourism. “Furthermore, World Heritage status is not awarded lightly. There are less than 200 sites worldwide on UNESCO’s ‘natural sites’ listing; and in the Society’s view, Zimbabwe’s national interests will
the most affected areas to learn about these methods. Thanks to Proflight, Billy Banda from SLCS and Awely travelled to the Lower Zambezi to teach farmers how to construct chilli fences. Gum poles, rope and mutton cloth soaked in a mixture of dried chilli and engine oil were used. The chillies were grown by the CLZ’s own Mugurameno project. Farmers also learnt how to make fuel bricks using elephant dung, water and chillies with a standard brick mould. Once dry the brick can be burnt for 3-4 hours overnight to protect crops. Thanks go to South Luangwa Conservation Society and Awely for lending Billy; Proflight for sponsoring Billy’s return flight from Mfuwe and the Civil Society Environment Fund for funding our pilot chilli growing project – and the farmers of Mugurameno! Hopefully next year a bumper crop of chillies will help local farmers protect themselves from elephants and feed their families.
be best served by maintaining the integrity of the area, and prohibiting activities such as mining that will result in its degradation and possible loss of its World Heritage status.” A media statement issued in early July by a Zimbabwebased mining company, Habbard Investments (affiliated to Geo Associates) announced its intention to carry out an Environmental Impact Assessment for prospecting for heavy mineral sand deposits in the Ruckomechi and Chewore Rivers in northern Zimbabwe. It called for comments to be sent to an Environmental Impact Assessment consultancy company IMPACO by a deadline of 17 July 2012. The Ruckomechi River lies within the Mana Pools National Park and the Chewore River forms the boundary between the Sapi and Chewore Safari Areas. Both rivers are within the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Biosphere Reserve, the Important Bird Area and the TFCA boundaries. Prior to submitting an objection by the required date, The Zambezi Society met with Paul Chimbodza, CEO of Geo Associates, the proponent of the project, who said that in September 2011 his company had been issued two licences to undertake exploration activities in these rivers, covering an area from the escarpment to the Zambezi River (45 kms for Ruckomechi and 65 kms for Chewore). The licences are due to expire in September 2012, but are renewable.
The heavy mineral sand deposits covered in the prospecting licence include copper, lead, zinc, manganese, tungsten, magnetite, tantalum, and titanium group minerals. If exploration was successful, the subsequent mining methods to extract these minerals from the riverbeds would include dredging and earth moving on a large scale, with sands being transported away in heavy machinery for processing at a nearby urban centre. The Zambezi Society questions why such heavy impact operations need to target ecologically sensitive protected areas like the Zambezi Valley when there are alternative sources elsewhere, in less vulnerable areas. The Zambezi Society’s investigations in July 2012 showed that the company IMPACO was not listed by Zimbabwe’s Environmental Management Agency as an approved consultancy to conduct EIAs. UNESCO’s World Heritage Committee has the power to list a World Heritage Site as being ‘In Danger’ if it is considered to be threatened by any of the following criteria: depletion of wildlife resources through poaching; deterioration of natural beauty through mining impacts; threats to its integrity through increased human encroachment; lack of an adequate or implemented management plan. In the opinion of The Zambezi Society, all of these apply. For more information visit www. zamsoc.org Join the Facebook Community Page SAVE MANA POOLS at www. facebook.com/SaveMana
Extraordinary Africa Royal Zambezi Lodge, an intimate family-owned property, is situated on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River on the edge of the unique Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia. The lodge offers the ultimate in comfort & luxury, with unrivalled game viewing accompanied by professional guides, a luxury spa and world-class fishing and fly fishing. Royal Zambezi Lodge - the epitome of the luxury safari experience.
www.royalzambezilodge.com
Email: reservations1@royalzambezilodge.com Tel: +26 (0) 979 486618
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
46 Travellers Friend
Classifieds Accommodation
Accommodation Tamarind Lodges - Comfortable, budget self Catering lodges in Kariba E-mail - tamarind@zol.co.zw Tel - +263 61 2697 or +263 773 519 213 GPS Reading S 16°31’28.6° E 028°49’19.5°
Advertise in the Kariba & Lower Zambezi Classifieds sonya@zol.co.zw +263 772 874 352 Sonya McMaster
Accommodation
Food Supplies
Hardware
Tours & Safaris
Warthogs Bush Camp, Kariba - Book now for
All you will need for your Holiday to Kariba. E-mail - crispy@utande.co.zw Tel: +263 61 2880/3024/2592 or +263 773 921 687 GPS LOC 16.530266. 28.772416
·a member of fire prevention inspection bureau Contact: +263 775 789 009; +263 775 067 937; +263 776 095 907 E-mail – multifireprotectionsystems@gmail.com
Pesha Safaris - Zimbabwe - Houseboats, Canoe
Blue Waters @ Andora Harbour, Kariba.
P&Z Gases & Hardware Kariba. For all your lp
Xmas. Music and activities going on all week. Clean and comfy budget accommodation for families, groups and individuals. Bar on the lakeshore serving meals all day every day. Splash pool, kid’s play area. Dstv. Registered tour operators for houseboats, canoe safaris, Tailor Mades. relax@warthogs.co.zw www.warthogs.co.zw 0712 201 733, 0775 068 406
Pagungwa Lodge, Breezes Road, Kariba.
Lodge with swimming pool & 4 bedrooms en-suite, fully serviced. Contact us for Rates etc. Garth - +263 772 877 083 , Fiona - +263 773 194 088 , E-mail - fionaB@cas.co.zw
Boating
Hersov Tours
Rj Marine Services - Outboard motor service &
repairs by trained personnel. Stand 762 Chawara Kariba Contact: Rob - +263 61 2356 / +263 772 355 561 Chessa - 46’Monohull Steel boat fully equipped for
sale or share option. Moored at Marineland, Kariba Contact: Garth - +263 772 877 083
Mcline Canvas - For all your manufacture & repairs
TRANSFERS Harare - Kariba (Zimbabwe) Livingstone - Lusaka (Zambia)
Contact: Tendai / Seke Phone/Fax: +263 6 3625 Cell - + 263 773 923500 or Cell - +263 61 3625
E-mail - kangomatendai@gmail.com hersovtours@gmail.com
Zambezi Traveller
of all boating, Safari & outdoor living accessories. Contact: McLine - + 263 772 709 470 or +263 61 2627 Stand 740 Chawara, Kariba
Food Supplies Crispy Fresh - Visit our one stop shop!
Suppliers of all dairy, beef, pork, poultry, Fresh fruit, vegetables & dry goods.
We offer beers & soft drinks on a sale on return basis plus ice & fishing bait. Contact: bluewaters@ iwayafrica.com Tel: +263 61 2971 / 2972
Harbours Chawara Harbour - t/a C&D Supplies
Suppliers of all drinks, ice, bait, fuel & oil and the best biltong, dry wors & chilli bites in Zimbabwe. Contact - Colin or Debbie , Cell - +263 774 143 064 , Phone - +263 61 3278 E-mail - debsmac70@gmail.com
Hardware Endura Rubba Paints - For all your
requirements of Dulux Paints, lubricants, thinners, resin, fibreglass, filters, Eezipool products, V belts & accessories, Tandem lawnmowers, Eureka DIY and more Contact: Nikki - 0774 060 717 Tiri - 0775 965 547 Land Line - 061 2325
Multi-Fire Protection Systems P/L sales &
services of fire extinguishers, fire alarms, plumbing ·For domestic, commercial and industrial
gas requirements, fishing tackle, paints, cleaning materials, hardware, electrical & plumbing requirements. 457 KARIBA SAFARIS COMPLEX, ANDORA HARBOUR NEXT TO CAROBECK HARBOUR, BEHIND OLD BEVERLY BANK COMPLEX. For Quotes/Enquires: E-mail - pzgashardware@yahoo.com patriciapfupa@yahoo.com Call:+263 772 994 846 , +263 772 327 248 + 263 712 568 925, +263 61 3451/3439/3430
P&Z Gas Services Kariba. For all your lp gas requirements. Cylinder refills, spares & service . Find us at 457 Kariba Safaris Complex Andora Harbour, next to Carobeck Harbour behind Old Beverly Bank Complex EMAIL: patriciapfupa@gmail.com pzlpgases@gmail.com CALL :+263 772327248 , + 263 772994846 +263 712568925, +263 772 327 248 + 263 712 568 925, +263 61 3451/3439/3430
Restaurants Criselle’s @ Warthogs - Delicious meals available
at Warthogs Bushcamp, Powerline road, Kariba Contact Criselle - +263 772 358 432 or +261 61 2701
Safaris, Vic Falls, Botswana - Chobe, Delta, Tented Safaris. Zambia - Luangwa Bush Camps, Exclusive Lodges Contact us for all your Holiday Packages and personalised safari itineraries. Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba. E-mail - pesha@mweb.co.zw Phone - +263 61-3121/2247/3181 Mobile – +263 772 763 916/8
Mopani Cruises - for all your incentive travel on houseboats & catering, lodges, transfers & day trip bookings. Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba. E-mail mopani@zol.co.zw or mopanicruises@gmail.com Phone - 00 263 613195 Cell - 00 263 772 856 319 Sheer Magic Houseboat - Kariba Zimbabwe
For a fantastic pontoon houseboat experience! Contact: Sonya McMaster +263 772 874 352 E-mail - sonya@zol.co.zw
Kariba Houseboat Cruises Discover the magic of
Kariba on one of our houseboats - Peregrine, Osprey or Shikra. Special Rates on at the moment. Contact: Lynn or Cally Phone: +263 61 2923, Mobile: +263 (0) 774 578 622 Email: karibahouseboatcruises@gmail.com Website: www.karibahouseboatcruises.com
Avoca Marine Transfers - For all your Lake transfers to the various Camps & Lodges on Kariba’s lakeshore. Contact: John Biss avoca@iwayafrica.com Tel: +263 61 2501 Mobile +263 772 233 468
gokariba.com Houseboats, Catering, Accommodation & Transfers
Experience a houseboat holiday with
DRIFTER and MAKULU HOUSEBOAT CHARTERS Kariba, Zimbabwe
Phone: + 263 (0) 772 348 091 E-mail: kbeng@zol.co.zw
Sonya McMaster email: sonya@zol.co.zw Tel: +263 772 874 352
“Live the fishing life with Bols Brandy” KWV28
Vans Harbour ,Kariba Email: gokariba@iwayafrica.com For This Is It & Nyati Houseboats, and many more! Contact: Kiara Hammond 0779 675 935 or office 0772 546 126
Harare
47
on your way to the Zambezi
Conservation
Support for Zim’s black rhino By Mana Meadows
N
But small efforts can make a difference, as shown at the recent Tusker’s Spring exhibition held in Harare to raise money for rhino anti-poaching efforts in the Save Valley Conservancy. Well-known Zimbabwean artists Lin Barrie and Will Maberly exhibited work at the event which was hosted by Meredith & Meredith and Off the Track Expeditions.
PHOTO: MANA MEADOWS
ever before have Africa’s rhino populations been as precariously balanced as they are now. Organised, efficient, mobile and very professional poaching syndicates are targeting rhino throughout southern Africa
Will Maberly and Lin Barrie
White rhino by Lin Barrie
Just over US$6 500 was raised with more expected in the way of donations and pledges. The demand for rhino horn in China and Vietnam has grown in the last five years, partly due to the myth
that rhino horn can cure cancer. With today’s highly targeted and sophisticated poaching syndicates, areas like the Save Valley have extended their fundraising and awareness efforts in order to counter the increasing threat.
Formed in 1991, the Save Valley Conservancy area had been historically used for cattle ranching. Today it is made up of different ranches, dedicated to wildlife and protecting black rhinos from extinction. Zimbabwe’s lowveld area, made up of a few key private wildlife areas which include the Save Valley Conservancy, is home to an incredible 87% of Zimbabwe’s remaining black rhino.
As Raoul du Toit, rhino conservationist and guest speaker at Tusker’s Spring said, “Saving rhinos does more than simply save a worthy creature; rhinos act as catalysts. If we save rhino we save a whole lot more. Since they require a high level of professional, organised protection, their protection provides protection for other wildlife.” “Rhinos also need space – about 1000 hectares per animal”, says du Toit, “which means a lot of habitat for other animals”. And of course, due to their rarity, prehistoric beauty and ‘Big Five’ status, rhinos are a very helpful tourism attraction. Tourists can see these endangered giants up close by visiting one of six safari lodges in the conservancy –
Chishakwe, Senuko, Sango, Mokore, Matendere or Humani – which each offer diverse game-viewing experiences. For those in Harare, look out for the Rhino Golf Day on the 16 November and also the sale of the DVD. There’s a rhino in my house – the documentary story of baby rhino Tatenda who was raised by John and Judy Travers at Imire after his mother was killed by poachers in 2007. All profits are going to rhino conservation. World Rhino Day is on 22 September so keep an eye out for news on events being held on that day. http://savevalleyconservancy.org; http://lowveldrhinotrust.org
Art & Craft
Verandah Gallery exhibition turns 21 Visitors browse the rich selection of Zimbabwean artwork on display at the 21st Verandah Gallery exhibition. The annual exhibition raises money for the Emerald Hill Children’s Home and this year raised over USD 10 000. 56 talented Zimbabwean artists, ranging from well known favourites to new names to watch – a true feast for the eyes and soul. Art lovers at the Verandah Gallery
By Mana Meadows
T
he 21st Verandah Gallery exhibition offered yet another v isua l banquet, with a lineup of Zimbabwean art guaranteed
PHOTO: MANA MEADOWS
to make you want to clear some space on your wall. It’s hard to go wrong with a warm winter’s day, the cheery background tunes of the Detema Jazz band, good wine and a selection of work from
The annual Verandah Gallery exhibition offered Harare locals the opportunity to get an inspirational and varied dose of Zimbabwean art and support a good cause at the same time. Around 1000 people visited the exhibition with approximately $10 400 being raised for Emerald Hill
Children’s Home and Emerald Hill School for the Deaf. Event founder and organizer Anna F leming was pleased with the turnout - 248 paintings were sold - saying that the exhibition provides a relaxed way of looking at art which contributes towards its success.
“A lot of people feel intimidated by art exhibitions and galleries,” said Fleming. “Verandah Gallery is a family occasion during the day, in the garden. It’s relaxed, spread out and there’s something for everyone – be it first time buyers or those who have been coming for years. “ The wonderful thing is that everybody benefits from the event – Emerald Hill, the artists and the public. Because it is a fundraising event it is important that as many paintings as possible are sold so the aim is to have reasonably priced, affordable work on display.
The money is raised from a 25% commission on all sales.” Artists whose work has appeared in Verandah Gallery calendars and cards are eligible to exhibit as well as guest artists. Some of this year’s top sellers included Chrispane Mutsadyanga, Charles Nkomo, Daryl Nero, Arthur Azevedo, Sheena Chadwick, Sue Jarvis and Barry Lungu. Look out for the annual Paintings, Pimms & Pancakes portfolio art sale which will be held at the Verandah Gallery on 11 November 2012.
Boutique Hospital 24 Hour Emergency ICU Aviation Medicine Tr a v e l Va c c i n a t i o n C l i n i c Maternity Surgery M a l a r i a & Tr a v e l A d v i s o r y
24 Hr Hotline 0773 333 691 15 Lanark Road, Belgravia, Harare; Phone: +2634 700666/8 / 707072 / 705691 traumacentreharare@gmail.com
www.traumacentrehospital.com
“Woman’s Wellness Centre”
zambezi harare
48 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
CONSERVATION
Mending game in the veld Aware vets attend to elephant with sore foot
By Jane Herriot
W
e were contacted to catch a young python that was causing exaggerated alarm amongst the poultry, and owners, on a small holding. Upon arrival at the location the snakes’ specific position was betrayed by the large, overwrought crowd (as there normally is) surrounding a clump of long grass and wild flowers. The pythons head was restrained with the catchall pole and she was pulled to open ground. On close examination, the python had a horrible open wound on the right side of her mouth, but luckily the damage did not extend into her mouth. We decided to take her to a quiet area for treatment, after measuring and weighing her (3.10 m and 13.5kg).
Hyena removal of wire
Wildlife wound repair in the field can be a challenging exercise in many realms, the least of which being the assembling of the equipment boxes for all eventualities (think lizards to lions). Snakes require nearly ten times the amount per kilogram of inject-able anaesthetic than a dog would require for the same depth of anaesthesia, but the effects last for a much longer time. Once she was fully asleep the wound was cleaned (no shaving required) and prepared for closure. The edges were easily pulled to oppose each other and 18 stitches put in. We kept her for two weeks and once we were happy with how the healing had progressed, removed the stitches.The following day she was released at a nearby game park and within five minutes simply disappeared into the undergrowth.
Snared pregnant zebra - mercy killing
FASHION
Following that treatment was a young buffalo bull that had been horned in the right eye by the herd bull during a show of dominance. By the time that we were informed of the wound, the eyeball had been enucleated (hanging out) for more than ten days. Once the buffalo was immobilised it was determined that the eye had been damaged beyond any hope of repair and we geared up to remove the eye-ball. The degree of swelling and contamination of the wound made it a rather protracted surgery but we did win in the end, with the buffalo’s head propped up on a bag of cubes and the assistants shooing away any errant, opportunistic flies and other buffalo. I’m glad to report that he did make a full recovery from that incident but earned himself the name Cyclops!
SEALIFE SEAFOODS
For all your fish & seafood requirements
Harare fashion Week The Ndau Collection team Christie Halsted (owner/ designer) and Christie Brookstein (designer), from Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe enjoyed an action packed week at the Zimbabwe fashion week. Their unique and beautiful creations adorned a superstar and Botswana models looked stunning in them too.
Main: Super elegant 6ft tall Boi, fresh from London Fashion week in Christie Halsted’s new feather collection, Top Left: Fortune Rocks Christie Halsted’s choker, Bottom Left: South African muscian, Toya
Christie B : “Our whole week
Christie H: “ It was at the
was made when SA singing star Toya took to the stage, wearing Ndau Collection croc
tooth earrings by Christie Halsted, she wore them with such elan, superstar!” Ambassador’s party that we met the team from Botswana’s First Models and a firm friendship was
formed! Fortune, TeShawn, Boi and Lesedy were some of the hippest people at fashion week and we had so much fun hanging out with them, dressing them and planning for future collaborations!
TEL: 498021/3
Travelling? Going Fishing? Email us your orders Bond Street Cnr The Chase, Mount Pleasant Shops
Tel: 04 336373/79 | Billy: 0772 116451 / | Email: bilsan@zol.co.zw Biff: 0772 265696 | Email: biff@yoafrica.com
Shop No. 53 Borrowdale Village
Tel: 263 4 885660 | Fax: 263 4 883214 | Email: masterangler@zol.co.zw
Zambezi News
cahora bassa & tete TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
49
Celebration
Fishing on Cahora, the best birthday present ByGigi Guimbeau Driving through the rapidly decreasing Mopane woodlands of the Chicoa area, only a two and a half hours drive from bustling Tete city we found paradise. Moringa Bay Lodge. Rolling green lawns, large shady trees, the distant call of the fish eagle and the sound of the gentle lapping of Cahora Bassa Lake certainly makes Moringa an oasis. It was certainly an easy choice to make it the destination to celebrate our very dedicated fisherman son Alexandre’s, 21st birthday. Gail Grubb went out of her way to make it a weekend to remember.
Cahora Bassa Dam
21 today and enjoying every minute
Tiger, Bream, Chessa, Vundu, Barble (Cat fish), Cornish Jack and Nkupe are amongst the many species of fish available to give any fishing enthusiast a thrill to keep coming back for more. A re s t a u r a n t o p e n i n g i n December with an amazing view of the gorge, framed by spreading African Star Chestnuts, will certainly make Moringa an even more amazing spot to get away from it all.
An evenings fishing on the banks of the Zambezi River – Alexandre Guimbeau
PHOTOS:Gigi Guimbeau
View from Moringa
Bulk sale of Meat and Chicken Products
LA BELLA ITALIA Specialists in Pasta Dishes & Pizzas Raviolis, pastas with salmon, Carpaccio, Tiramissu & cheese cake. We have the best pizza's in town. Our food is fresh lean and tasty. A delicacy is our Panzerrotti Rossi & Funghi (pasta with dried Mushrooms). Cell: +258 828 338 942 / +258 848249056 / +258 824005820 / +258 843718940 Tel: +258 21 252 2821, Fax: +258 252 23308/7 Email: gratsie2002 yahoo.com Address: Avenida Eduardo Moldlane, Tete - Almost adjacent to Home Centre
We cater for private functions as well and can alter our menu to cater for various requirements
Thee Deli
We stock Meats Prosciutos Salamis Variety of Cheeses (Fresh & Smoked Mozzarella, Blue Cheese, Mature Cheddar) Olive Oils Salmon (Fresh & Smoked) Anchovies Various Seafoods Artichokes Pickled bringels Mushrooms Onions Peppers Ostrich or Springbok Carpaccio Biltongs Cheese Grillers Smoked & Plain Spare Ribs Sushi Fresh Vegetables & Fruits Fresh Mozzarela and Fresh Milk (By Order). We provide a delivery service. Cell: +258 843718940, Tel: +258 21 252 2 3308, Fax: + 258 252 23308/7 Email: gratsie2002@yahoo.com Address: Avenida da Independencia #926
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If you are looking for an exciting fishing experience or purely for a bit of R & R, we have the ideal destination for you... Well presented Self Catering Chalets & Rondavels | Camping Area | Fishing | Bird watcher paradise | Boat Hire
Information & Bookings: Ph: +258 844085785/+258 848978465 Email: bookings@moringabaylodge.com
www.moringabaylodge.com
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
50 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
business
Steeling themselves for business I took some time out to speak with Vania Monti about BSI’s arrival into the busy Tete market.
Frances Jackson
ZT : Vania, I can see you are very enthusiastic about the Tete business environment. How are you finding doing business in the fastly developing city? VM: It has been a challenge for us as we have many things to learn about doing business in Tete. Although we are finding that the community has welcomed us with open arms and our business has seen a positive growth since we have arrived here. ZT: What are the biggest challenges that you face? VM: Apart from us learning to speak Portuguese properly, our biggest challenge is understanding the intricacies of the various government authorities and what they require from us on a monthly basis. ZT: Is your business quite wide spread, or are you mainly focused on the mines? VM: The development in Tete is fantastic and we have found that our customer
From Left: Bruno Schmidt , Naim Bega, Darrel Smith, Paul Beresford-Miller, Dora da Palma
base stretches far and wide. We deal with the mines as well as a number of the support services to the mines. We have been very fortunate
to have the support of the construction industry as well. ZT: What is your most important offering to the customer?
Park Inn Hotel
Rio Tinto Sign
Tete Rd Standard Bank
VM: We are committed to offering our customers the best service and prices that we possibly can. Our stock holding and range of products is
vast and our ability to source materials quickly also stands us in good stead. We offer cutting and bending of reinforcing bars as well as custom
made roofing, these coupled with our commitment to service excellence are our most important offerings to our customers
Housing
Dirt road leading to Park Inn Hotel and Rio Tinto Project Office
Zambia Rd Tete
From Left: Vania Monti, Luis Agostinho , Ala le Roux, Darrel Summers
BSI STEEL Kitoko Trading
Malawi Rd
Alfandega
Ri Tinto Project Office
Enquire about cash discounts for bulk steel orders CUTTING AND BENDING
STRUCTURAL STEEL
CUSTOM MADE ROOF SHEETING
PLATES AND SHEETS
REINFORCING BARS
CUTTING AND GRINDING MEDIA
WELDED MESH
WELDING RODS
ANGLES Vania Monti (English) Tel: +258 84 322 0335 Email: vania.monti@bsisteel.com
Laino Manda (Portuguese) Tel: +258 84 760 7791 Email: laino.manda@bsisteel.com
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 51
ENVIRONMENT
Can Tete go green? By Frances Jackson
O
n a recent trip to Tete, Zambezi Traveller editor Frances Jackson found the issues of deforestation and waste disposal to be of pressing concern, as the rapidly expanding city takes its toll on the environment. Jackson met with Martin Potgieter of Executive Logistics, who is working on a pilot project with Café del Rio for the ‘green’ re-use of kitchen and bathroom waste. More on this in the next issue of Zambezi Traveller.
ZT: What has been your main focus? MP: Our core business is providing a legitimate support network to clients. Our logistics solutions provide a link between the goods and services that our clients need and the people and organisations that
Martin Potgieter
provide them. We’re a diverse company with many skills and we have a combined experience of 130 years in business in Mozambique. ZT: It’s exciting to hear that you are bringing green solutions to Tete. MP: Our core business is Executive Logistics, but our passion is the environment and we are continually on the lookout for opportunities where we can offer products and services which can deliver alternative methods providing sustainability, mitigation or resource management.
We have a particular interest in products and services which provide long-term economic values to the wider stakeholders in Mozambique. Community development and upliftment is a critical area which is why we are launching Greenshoots as a separate company under the Executive Logistics umbrella to drive environmentally sensitive solutions. ZT: What are some of your products? MP: Bio-digesters for the production of bio-fuels for cooking – an alternative to using wood for fuel, reducing pressure on fragile forest systems and reducing the
carbon footprint. Thermal insulation coating which has shown reduction of up to 30% in the need for cooling and use of energy in large and small spaces. Production of alternative bio-fuels from kitchen waste through oil recovery systems. An environmentally friendly de-greaser that breaks down chemical elements in oils and residues. ZT: Have these products got a track record? MP: Our suppliers are regional companies whose focus is research and development for greener solutions. All products have been fully tested and come with a welldeveloped R&D programme
to support them. Projects implemented in neighbouring countries are using these technologies and are providing great benefits to their local communities. We are currently working on having them established and accredited here in Mozambique, to become the norm in the way companies both large and small and individuals behave, supporting issues raised in our President’s speech in the Rio +20 conference. ZT: Where is the greatest need? MP: It is so difficult to define one single cause and effect and highlight that. We are more inclined to believe
that a holistic solution, one that involves a good deal of process management and cognitive rationalisation, will provide more benefits to more people. We have to change the way that we work to work smarter, and to do that we need to change behaviour. More often than not it’s down to education, as this will ultimately provide the key to the successful implementation of projects. Whilst we can think holistically, it is very difficult to act holistically, but we must consider the wider ramifications of what we do and how it integrates into the wider environment.
Tete Building Supplies Lda For all Plumbing materials Aluminium Sliding Doors and windows Fireproof/Thiefproof self-contained Doors Laminate flooring and accesories Allan +258 840798075 (English) Ciprean +258 825747420 (Portugese) email : allan@tetebuilders.com Directions: Last warehouse of the four on the right just past MLT exiting Tete towards Changara.
THE SOLUTION YOU CAN TRUST “To save the earth and its biodiversity is an imperative. It is an ethical duty, a moral obligation.” H.E. Armando Emilio Guebuza, 21st june 2012. Rio+20 Greenshoots – Evolutional Environmental solutions Biogas digesters and biofuel conversion Heat-OUT –Sulation, thermal treatment coatings Mineral Concession Representation Management and Representation Remote sensing, geographical data management & cartography
martin@execlogistics.co.mz +258 84 311 2222 nick@execlogistics.co.mz +258 84 307 1940
Diverse Mining and related Industry Equipment Procurement, consolidation and freight forwarding Aerial Logistics Re-deployable camps Transport and cold chain Coal and core sample exports
Offices In Maputo, Tete And Nacala
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
BUSINESS
Starting business in Mozambique Understand your market and the business environment. Mozambique is a vast emerging market with many opportunities in a range of sectors. It is important to decide in which sector your business will be most successful, being careful to consider the legislative and regulatory structures which apply in that sector. Certain commercial sectors have specific legislation and this will need to be considered during the process of registering your company. Choose your correct business entity type There are several business entity types in Mozambique suited to the various types
photo: Gigi Guimbeau
By Frank von Habsburg
Frank Von Habsburg
of business opportunity. For example, Mozambique has business structures appropriate to the individual single trader, a branch of an existing entity, or to a global corporation looking to establish a presence in the country. It is important that your company business entity is correctly established as this can affect the type of activity that your company is licensed to engage in.
Carefully consider your business structure. It is important to establish how your company will run and who will be the personnel representing the business in Mozambique. This is important as the country is strict as to who can make decisions on behalf of your company and your registered business representatives must be clearly established. Consider registering at the Foreign Investment Centre. Register the project at the Foreign Investment Centre (CPI) to benefit from a range of fiscal incentives, enable the project to remit dividends or repatriate capital and foreign
Relax by the tranquility of the Zambezi
lending offshore. The current minimum foreign investment in Mozambique is around US$95,000.00. Structure your business plan to maximize tax efficiency. Careful and timeous planning can be hugely beneficial from a tax perspective. There are Dual Taxation Agreements in place between Mozambique and Mauritius, South Africa, Portugal, and UAE, to name a few, which can assist with this process. Seek a reputable professional to assist with setting up business. The process for investing in Mozambique is not simple and it is recommended that investors use someone familiar with the process. In the growing Mozambique there are numerous service providers in the marketplace and investors should take time to select according to their needs, remembering that the biggest and most pricy don’t always deliver the best service. Plan well in advance and have patience. Some processes take time, so advance planning is essential to ensure project timelines are met.
Come and enjoy a luxurious dining experience
Zambezi Traveller
Education
Women working well Together with her fellow inmates and the officials, the women developed projects which they hope will grow into something bigger and better, and life will improve for them all.
PHOTO: Thea Quin
52 Travellers Friend
She is very grateful to the prison service for letting them get on with these projects. These are her words:-
By Thea Quin
“The invention of the project of re-integration of prisoners at the Cadeia Feminina de Chingodzi Tete Province came with the aim to assist the prisoners. The project consists of three teachers and 44 prisoners.
Just before reaching the airport in Tete on the right hand side is a little nursery and a small store selling baskets, chairs and tables. This is a project of the female prison of Tete.
“We produce many different articles such as grass baskets, trays, reed trays, brooms, chairs and tables, mainly of bamboo and wood. There is a lovely little nursery built by the prisoners and it has a nice stock of plants.
Prisoners in Tete working to uplift themselves
I was privileged to meet with a prisoner who is still serving her sentence. She had come from an educated background and when she found herself in jail she was desperate and thought she would never survive. She was one of the few inmates with formal education and slowly she began to realize that she could actually make this a positive experience in her life. She became determined to make a difference.
“In addition, have a literacy programme which has its difficulties as not all the prisoners speak the same language. So far the project has helped to raise the living standards of the prisoners and educated them to start their own projects when their jail terms are over. “This is really a project worth supporting and I am sure that the directors would be happy with any new skills that could be passed on, and the support of their nursery and stall.”
Fruit and Vegetables
Nicolette +258 847492380 Address: Zambezi North Bank, Tete
Fresh produce, imported and local. Orders can be emailed or phoned in. Email: jess.vazal@gmail.com Tel : 823849618
Cross over the bridge heading to Zambia/Malawi. Turn left immediatley after crossing until you hit the Zambezi river. Turn right and follow the road along the river for about 1.5 kilometres.
CLM Transport Lda specialises in the transport of containerised and dry bulk cargoes throughout South Africa, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Zambia and Malawi. We pride ourselves in building strong relationships and being your business partner rather than your supplier. Brendan: + 258 82 509 3930 | Thom: + 258 82 305 7711 Email: info@clmtransport.com
www.clmtransport.com
... Tele : +258 82 509 4300, +258 84 383 6593 | Email : info@prointelafrica.com | Web : www.prointelafrica.com | ProIntel Africa, Avenida Independencia, Box 84, Tete, Mozambique 50100 | t
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 53
Know Your Trees
In love with baobabs By Thea Quin
I
think you have not felt Africa until you witness the bright orange sun setting behind the gnarled branches of these ancient trees. As the bright orange ball slips down it seems to bring out a myriad of colours on the bulky trunks; pinks to blues to greens. The wonderful feeling of stepping inside a hollow tree trunk so large that it could shelter you - one has the feeling of being hugged by a tree. It’s no wonder there are so many folklore tales about the baobab; they each seem to have their own
individual character. Some can look awfully fierce while others look like withered old men; some just simply regal. What the lion is to the animal kingdom, so the baobab is to the plant kingdom. Some baobabs are said to be thousands of years old - this is hard to verify as the species does not have age rings, but radiocarbon dating may be able to help. The fruit can be bought all over Tete, weighing in at about one kilogram, with nutrients such as carbohydrates, magnesium, vitamins B and C, potassium and dietary fibre. It is used to add to porridge or flavour drinks and can be used to thicken jams.
If anything makes the harsh arid place that is Tete attractive it has to be the majestic Adansonia Digitata, or as we know it our beloved baobab tree, sometimes referred to as the ‘upside down tree,’ ‘monkey tree’ or ‘ bottle tree.’ PHOTO:Gigi Guimbeau
Baobabs in Tete
The trunk can store up to 120 000 litres of water to endure the harsh climate. This has saved these trees as they are not easily burnt, so are not used for charcoal.
However we recently saw two huge ones that had been chopped down, and attempts at burning them had failed. It saddened us to see these magnificent trees on their sides, a blackened mess.
We are certainly lucky to be able to have these trees in our landscape, and with the tremendous growth of Tete, the powers that be should value these ancient trees and do all in their power to preserve them.
With all the new development we don’t want to make the same mistake our forefathers did in not treasuring the trees. What would Tete be without baobabs?
Business
Another giant comes to Tete Bell has invested substantially in Tete, including tooling, parts stock and human resources. The facility consists of 800 square metres of office and workshop space. “Bell machines are fine-tuned for African conditions, said
By ZT Correspondent
S
outh African heav y equipment manufacturer and distributor, Bell Equipment, has opened a customer service centre in Tete to ensure strong support of the region’s existing and growing customer base, as well as further strengthen Bell’s regional network. “Bell Tete is strategically placed to serve the Nacala Corridor spatial development initiative and the Beira rail and harbour link,” said John Ferguson, managing director of Bell Mozambique. “We see huge potential in the region and opening a facility in Tete not only brings our support base closer to our customer base, but also complements existing operations in Malawi, Beira and Nacala.” Mike Q uin has been appointed as branch manager of Bell Equipment Tete and added: “Currently we have over 100 machines operating in the Tete region, all used
From left: Antonio Wamusse mechanic, Shepherd Mufute - Parts Supervisor, Mike Quin - branch manager, Kneeling: Jose Jasse Apprentice Mechanic,
in mining operations where downtime is critical and good support is essential.” The Tete region has the second largest reserves of coking coal in the world and has attracted the interest of several international mining giants. Infrastructure projects should commence at the end of 2012 with coal production ramping up from 2015 onwards to become comparable to the Witbank Middelburg coal region in South Africa.
Ferguson. Bell Tete has a direct line to the Bell Global Logistics Centre in Johannesburg and receives a weekly delivery of parts. SA Airlink is used to get urgent parts overnight.”
Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo,Tete,MOZAMBIQUE Cell phones : +258 82 509 3330 : +258 82 514 1653 : + 258 84 389 0093 email : donald@moztrade.com : jialingmoz@zol.co.zw Tel : + 258 252 20445 : Fax +258 252 20267
JIALING JH125LIII ARRIVING SOON See special offer below
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Mt 65 000.00 (inc iva)
Tetra Limitada Suppliers and stockists of all your painting requirements. Quality painting accessories by Hamiltons Cemcrete products for decorative finishes to floors , walls, low cost painting swimming pools and ponds. Contact Richard +258 823 975 915 email: franz.rich@gmail.com Zairan +258 842 524 096 moztetra@gmail.com Antonio +258 824 286 364 BAMBA CENTRE on the Malawi Road
Born and bred right here - Bell is Africa's very own global equipment supplier. With Bell you get machines built tough for our harsh environment and support from Africa's most comprehensive network of people dedicated to your success. Best of all, while you are creating infrastructure and jobs, so are we.
Tete Customer Service Centre Mike Quin (Sales) Tel: 84 3019355. Shepherd Mufute (Parts) Tel: 84 7579819. E-mail: sales@bell.co.za / www.bellequipment.com
SPECIAL OFFER FOR ADVANCE ORDERS Confirm your order and put down your 60% deposit BEFORE 30 SEPTEMBER 2012 and the following will be FREE WITH YOUR MOTORCYCLE - VALUE MT 6 000.00 1 x set rear shock absorbers 2 x drive chain 1 x speedo cable 1 x rev counter cable 1 x throttle cable 1 x front brake cable 2 x front sprockets 2 x rear sprockets 2 x spark plugs 1 x clutch cable 1 x Full face helmet STANDARD CONDITIONS ALL MOTORCYCLES ARE SUPPLIED SUBJECT TO THE FOLLOWING STANDARD CONDITIONS - Full payment required prior to release of motorcycle to customer - Cost includes registration and number plates - Cost includes assembly and 60 day warranty - Cost excludes insurance and licencing ALL WARRANTIES, CLAIMS, COLLECTIONS, TRANSACTIONS, DELIVERIES ARE TO BE CONCLUDED AT THE PREMISES OF MSASA INVESTMENTS PRICING, TERMS AND CONDITIONS CAN BE NEGOTIATED FOR ORDERS LARGER THAN 10 UNITS
Choose Bell as your equipment partner and enjoy the pride of knowing you're not just boosting your business but helping make Africa a better place too. Advert12220912
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
54 Travellers Friend DEFORESTATION
Nature on our doorstep
PHOTO: Gigi Guimbeau
Birdlife in my Tete garden
By Thea and Gigi
T
hrough the eyes of a camera, on many walks and from the seat of a bicycle we have been exploring this city in a determined effort to see
the beauty and diversity of our surroundings. It has certainly given us far more than we expected. Gigi: “Stunning panoramas of ancient baobabs are a constant backdrop here. I am addicted to photographing
DEFORESTATION
Ports hold the keys Beira and Nacala ports and the corridors they provide to the hinterland were the subject of a recent review which points to shortcomings and opportunities. By ACIS Beira and Nampula recently hosted the launch of a Logistics Review of the Beira and Nacala Ports and Corridors. The report, carried out with funding from USAID under the auspices of the
Southern Africa Trade Hub and AgriFuturo has been broadly welcomed by business as a benchmark for current service levels and a platform from which to develop both corridors. The Beira and Nacala Corridors are of major importance for both
24hr SERVICE
aste of moz e the t amb t a r b iqu e l e ce
Zambezi Traveller
Tete - hot, densely populated and probably the fastest expanding city in the world. Our husbands’ careers have brought us to this Zambezi destination. them in the early mornings and late evenings. Some call me the baobab fanatic. I am also fortunate enough to look out onto a thickly wooded protected area from my front verandah. A hot cup of tea (or a gin and tonic, depending on the time of the day), a pair of binoculars, and my pet Whitefaced Duck at my feet - I don’t have to go far to go birding.” Thea: “I enjoy daily rides along various well trodden paths through the bush, skirting and sometimes going through small villages. I just
Mozambique and countries in the hinterland, and are critical to the supply lines which will enable Mozambique to develop its natural resource potential. It is therefore important that actual and potential users of these corridors and ports work together in the region and provide opportunities for economic growth. The report itself has not been without controversy. Beira Port Container Terminal management in particular, despite having contributed figures to the review, reacted with some concern. The report finds that “Beira and
cannot help thinking that we are in a fragile place where the balance of nature is going to be badly affected if we don’t all take action to protect it.” Our two main concerns are waste disposal and the damage to the surrounding bush. Garbage is being thrown openly in the bush, as well as building rubble. Residents of Tete cannot help but notice truck load after truck load of timber passing through the area – a minimum of two huge loads a day. The city is expanding at a galloping rate, but we cannot help ponder a few questions:
Nacala Ports do not offer favourable productivity and efficiency advantages compared to other ports in Eastern and Southern Africa. And indeed, Beira and Nacala are less favourable when compared against a range of international benchmarks. “When benchmarked against several KPIs affecting port operations, including delivery, storage, transfer; and loading and discharging cargo, both ports exhibit remarkable inefficiencies and low productivity. This is especially troubling in light of the fact that private commercial
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For wonderful cruises on the mighty Zambezi. Also offers taylor made cruises to suit clients requirements. These could include an overnight cruise, a day cruise to the wonderful Boroma Mission, a 5 day cruise to the coast or just a fantastic sundowner cruise with spectacular sunset panoramas.
KASEKOME
Why are people not acting responsibly and dumping in one site? Companies need to get together with the municipality to decide on one dump site. What measures are in place to protect our amazing hardwood forests? There is considerable waste and logs are being dumped at Beira harbour and left to rot. From the air large areas now completely stripped clean and turning to desert, and there doesn›t appear to be any effort by these loggers to replant. Are there any plans for green belts in the Tete area?
interests manage both Beira and Nacala Ports under long-term concession agreements.” The review was undertaken as a benchmarking exercise to point the way forward. Significant improvements are currently underway in Beira Port with investments in new equipment and expansion of storage and handling facilities, and Nacala Port has recently been handed over to a consortium led by Vale, a Brazilian mining company with major coal interests in Tete Province, which plans significant investment in the port. Based on the report, plans are in place to develop a Standard Operating Procedures Manual for
We have to learn from past mistakes worldwide and with the urban sprawl there must be green belts in place to ensure clean air, clean water and habitat for wildlife and plants. The mines are doing a splendid job of relocating big trees and replanting. Hopefully we won’t lose our many baobabs. We need education on the importance of caring for our fauna and flora, and the dangers of disease being spread by dumping refuse everywhere. Let’s all stand together in making this town become not only a successful place but a place where everyone benefits, and make it an enjoyable place to live.
Beira Port and Corridor, which will provide valuable information for corridor users. There are also plans for businesses not only in Mozambique but also in hinterland countries which use or could use the ports and corridors to begin working together to improve the services available. Anyone interested in being involved in future developments and contributing their views to the development of these corridors as key economic drivers for the region should contact ACIS. The full logistics review report is available from ACIS’ online library. www.acismoz.com
Email: acis@acsimoz.com Tel– 0258 23 325 997 ACIS is a Mozambican business association offering services such as information, advocacy and networking, through the medium of English, to existing and potential investors.
ACIS – Better Business Together www.acismoz.com
TA K E AWAY
Our 1st Anniversary!
Everyone knows there is nothing like a good peri peri chicken available for you any time you need it. We cater for small or large functions. Av da Independencia, Opposite FNB - Tete Phone: Tel: 84 7440376 / 82 27 64 340/ 84 71 38 911
Tel: +258 848435655 Email: jan.dekock@telkom.za.net / zambezelda@gmail.com
Seafood, game meat, cold meats, poultry, vegetables, fruits, pastry, dairy, braai sauces, oil and more! HARARE Vicky Bowen: bowen@zol.co.zw, +263 772 225 413, skype:bowen.vicky Brigid Hook: marketing.seapride@googlemail.com, +263 772 264 773, skype:brigid.hook Koala Park, Seke Road, Harare, Zimbabwe BULAWAYO Gayle Bragge: seapridebyo@gmail.com, +263 772 236 400, skype:gayle.bragge 31 Asbestos Road, Kelvin North, Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
www.seapridezim.com
Enquiries/Reservations to: Tel: +258 25 222 333 Fax: +258 25 222 318 Cell: (English) +258 82 306 6042 Cell: (Port) +258 82 873 6196 Email:casindiralodge@gmail.com
Comfortable tranquility by the lakeside Twin rooms with own veranda, overlooking the lake. Full board rates and cash bar Fishing trips, crocodile farm & good birding Two speedboats for fishing and 6 berth houseboat Combination lodge and houseboat trips possible Daily direct flights JHB-Tete return Road transfers from Tete to the lodge Facilities for corporate meetings and small workshops/training sessions
zambezi backpage
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 55
ost
The m s ectacular . e c sp n is a it r ; r F e Dear ons , on your newspap mmediately’ and now I am
ti S. A ver ‘i Congratula ke it to my cover to co ta d l a il re w to .I d k in y I ha and see if u what I th recent cop is weekend t telling yo h th g r e li y g a ru d K using more n friends in e Canadia m so d n a h Peter family as hols wit s I was . a m d st te ri e h v C ri e they are as y Mum amp for th ily set up c l picture m il m st fa n y a c m I 8 ith the pet y and In 196 shaving w ] and famil d a r io D n y e m [S at nd Hepburn him. A gre on drum a king up at in a 44 gall o o th l a b ly g a in g havin gs enquir e. g on two le in d n a st at that tim r e ott g 110 % as Botswana n e se e Larry givin v ! a n h o ti to a e re g c e n the Tete r re privil nt article o ara does fo ia S ll t a ri h .B w n e n ly icles] Then to se ith Dave G the Tetest w d e n a m b sa ir e e th d th alasse is in always , an d other nd Steve C ie fr Lindsay an y e m n h h p o a [ s D ie m d o la t read fr n excellen and then a s things . gratulation interesting ne and con o d ll e w y I write to sa s, The Zambezi Traveller Best regard
Hi there,
Where in Lusaka may I find a copy of your paper? I thoroughly enjoy it when I can get my hands on a copy! And how do I find what Evelyn Roe has added to it, on your Facebook site. Many thanks,
Adrien Coxe
Dear Adrien, Thank you for your enquiry about our paper. Kabili Branding in Lusaka distribute the paper in Zambia . Call Chanda, David or Jonathan 0968 469 012, 0955 469 012, Email: helpdesk@justkabili.com, Visit: Kabili, next to Showgrounds Vet for Dogs (Dr Orparacha), Showgrounds, Lusaka Go to www.zambezitraveller.com to the Livingstone section and you can read Evelyn Roe’s articles and also previous issues
Greetings Teddy,
cock Simon Sil
welcomes letters to the editor fjackson@iwayafrica.com
I was up at Main Camp last weekend with the rest of the ride orgainsing committee as we were checking routes and finalizing arrangements with Parks. We managed to pick up the last 2 copies they had of the most recent edition of the Zambezi Traveller. Thanks for the write up, much appreciated. We also all really enjoyed reading the paper and wished we could receive it on a regular basis. Since getting back to Bulawayo I’ve been contacted by 2 other people, who had seen the write up on the ride and wanted to know from me how they could also get the paper. And in fact my boss had asked me to find out the same thing some time ago. I work for a non-profit organization called Dambari Wildlife Trust, which is a research and conservation organization. While our projects are mainly focused on the Matopos we do have contacts with many of the researchers and tour operators in the Hwange and Vic Falls area, and always find the articles in Zambezi Traveller of interest. So Frances, how is Zambezi Traveller distributed? Is there anywhere in Bulawayo we can get a copy on a regular basis? When are they published? Is it possible to subscribe? Please let me know. And again thanks for promoting Pumping Legs Adele Edwards, Logistics Manager - Dambari Wildlife Trust Dear Adele It is possible to subscribe to our paper – contact teddy@yoafrica.com you can also subscribe to our newsletter – go to www.zambezitraveller.com The newsletter comes out quarterly and tells you about various excellent specials on offer by our advertisers, news updates, conservation updates and events in the region. The next Zambezi Traveller newsletter will come out at the end of October.
Birding
Let’s hear it for the birds By Brent Staplekamp Hwange Birder
W
e keep our eyes open for the odd individual which has chosen to “overwinter” but really our scope for rare sightings has narrowed and we settle into some basic “bread & butter birding!” It is sort of like when the circus leaves town you go back to spying on your own bearded lady next door again! Well that is what you would expect, but Hwange’s done it again!
Once the last of the migrants leave and after all the excitement has waned, we birders have to hunker down to concentrate on the locals.
There was a Cape Griffon (Proff Mundy please note!) seen on a cheetah kill at Ngweshla but more interestingly, a rehabilitated one from the Kransberg Cape vulture colony in South Africa appeared at Shumba with a numbered wing tag. A pair of Mosque swallows started
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Kabili Branding
Hi Frances
What a fantastic newspaper, feeds my soul. I need to get onto your subscription list please. I picked up two editions whilst in Zim last month and have misplaced both, so have had to exist with “Edition 08”. Its now stuffed! Returning to Matabeleland on holiday has been magnificient, from the Bristows “Valencia B and B” and Sentinel fossils in the Beitbridge area, to Bulawayo, Hwange, Victora Falls and onto Binga . Too good. Will be doing it again but much slower next time, with fishing rods. We stayed a couple of days at the new camp in Hwange, Nehimba- 5 star treatment, really good, and unbelievable tented accomodation and elephant at your door. People at Miombo Lodge were fantastic ,its an excellent stop over and fantastic for elephant. Feels like there is something very special happening in Northern Matabeleland. Good Luck., Cheers Terry Allen, East London
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Lions distracting the Hwange Birder
photo : Brent Staplekamp
nesting in Mabale communal lands (well out of their recorded range), a racing pigeon complete with rings on its legs stopped in the park
for a “pitstop” much to the disgust of the resident lapwings and I photographed redbilled oxpeckers feeding off a dead giraffe!
That now famous pair of Crimson – breasted shrikes, you know…the yellow ones!, continue to hop around twitcher’s feet at main camp as though they were nothing special and lions distracted me from photographing birds, sorry boss, I mean birds distracted me from photographing lions! I cannot stress it enough get your ‘binos’ and head to Hwange! And after all this you would think I would be satisfied, not a chance! My eyes are on the skies, waiting for the first migrants!
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