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Issue 08
CONSERVATION
The Livingstone lion By Peter Roberts
T
he appearance of a wild lion on the outskirts of Livingstone in Zambia (see story on page 32) made big news for several reasons. Not only was he the f irst wild lion to been reported in the immediate area for some 30 years, and he made the mistake of claiming domestic livestock as fair game (never good for local public relations if you are lion), but his subsequent capture revealed an amazing story. This lion was a Zambezi traveller! It was only after the lion was successfully captured that wildlife officials discovered he was the proud owner of a GPS research collar. Enquiries revealed that the collar had been fitted by lion researchers in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, and somehow he must have crossed the Zambezi River to reach the north bank. Through the collar GPS data and the Hwange Lion Research Project’s valuable work over many years we are lucky enough to have a huge amount of information about our travelling lion’s history. Jane Hunt, who has dedicated the last 10 years of her life to studying lions in Hwange, first saw this lion when he was a two month old cub. He is now about 9 ½ years old, the offspring of a male lion who dominated the Makalolo area of Hwange National Park for many years, and featured in a National Geographic documentary film ‘Lion’s behaving badly.’ Indeed this specific lion is also featured in that film.
09 Conservation Boteti River flows again
17 Adventure How safe is bungee jumping?
28 History Mystery and magic in Matobo
34 Art & Crafts Rhythms of changing times
46 Conservation Dynamite, the male lion who became a Zambezi Traveller, on his home patch in Hwange in a photograph taken last year.
PHOTO: MARLEEN POST
Celebrating Painted wolves
The story of an amazing Zambezi traveller “He’s a famous lion,” said Jane “now even more so because of his travels!” Known as Dynamite, after the pan in Hwange where he was first collared by researchers, we now know he crossed the Zambezi more than 50 kilometres downstream of the
Victoria Falls. Not only does the river provide a formidable obstacle, the crossing is even more incredible as lions are not renowned swimmers and will often avoid water. His plight highlights the problems lions face in an
increasingly populated Africa, most significantly loss of habitat with suitable prey species and subsequent conflict with humans, as well as raising many issues relating to wider lion conservation and spotlighting the work of scientific
CREATE EXTR AORDINARY MEMORIES. www.suninternational.com
03 Environment Plans to dredge the Zambezi canned
researchers studying Africa’s increasingly pressured wildlife. See our special feature on page 16 for full details of his amazing journey and more on lion conservation and the work of the Hwange Lion Research team.
Regulars Cahorra & Tete 3, Okavango 9, Chobe 10, Hwange 14, Victoria Falls 17, Bulawayo 28, Lusaka 29, Luangwa 30, Livingstone 31, Kariba 37, Harare 45, Letters 47
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Zimbabwe Tel:+27 (11)7068167 H.A.C. Office Suite T Tel:+263 (772)352442 Sam Levy’s Village, Borrowdale, Harare Tel:+263(773)211339 Email: corrina@haczim.com / jhalsted@netactive.co.za
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3
ENVIRONMENT
Plans to dredge the Zambezi canned
Life along the Zambezi
Source: Club Of Mozambique News
M
ozambique has rejected an envir o n m e nt a l p l a n submitted last year by Riversdale, now owned by Rio Tinto, for moving coal via barges down the Zambezi River, its Transport Minister has said. Mozambique’s woeful infrastructure poses the biggest challenge for miners who have invested in the Tete province, which is estimated to hold one of the world’s biggest reserves of coking coal, yet lack options for getting their product to the port.
Riversdale had proposed to initially move two million tonnes of coal per year via barges to the port at Beira and build that up to around 12 million tonnes. “The impact was seen to be very negative, and there were no plans for mitigation. As proposed it is not doable,” Minister Paulo Zucula told news agency Reuters in a phone interview. “The Zambezi River ... every four years we have problems with flooding and killing people. So if you’re going to dredge the river, expand the banks, we will be in trouble,” he said. The barges were also expected to affect the local fish ecology.
The Minister of Transport has said that Mozambique has rejected an environmental plan submitted last year by Riversdale, now owned by Rio Tinto, for moving coal via barges down the Zambezi River. Rio Tinto declined to comment. Zucula said the company was welcome to resubmit its study, although he stressed that Mozambique would much prefer that companies opt to move their coal by rail. “If you compare the two in terms of environment, the difference is huge,” he said. Current rail infrastructure is limited to a capacity of six
million tonnes on the Sena railway line linking Tete with Beira, but Mozambique has plans to expand the Sena line and build and upgrade other rail lines and ports in the country. “We can assure everybody that we will build enough rail capacity to carry their coal. The problem is timing,” Zucula said.
PHOTOS: Gigi Guimbeau
“We are working at high speed to get financing. By the end of this year we will reach 10 million tonnes of capacity on the Sena line; next year we will start rehabilitating Nacala port and build two new railways.” He said it was as much a priority for Mozambique as it was for the miners to get the rail lines and ports built. “Coal is a development project for us, so we are a most interested party. The planning of infrastructure and the mine plans do not match yet, but we are making every effort to make it match,” he said. Mozambique is planning to establish a framework for how infrastructure projects
are planned and who will benefit to ensure all the projects expected to come online in coming years will get access to ports and rail. For now miners without capacity on the Sena line may have to rely on trucks to get their product to port and need to plan the production of their mines in line with available facilities. So far Brazil’s Vale is the only miner exporting coal from Mozambique.The miner has said it will invest $4.4 billion to build a coal terminal at the deep-water port at Nacala and a rail line via Malawi to link Nacala with its mines. Visit www.clubofmozambique.com
Enquiries/Reservations to: Tel: +258 25 222 333 Fax: +258 25 222 318 Cell: (English) +258 82 306 6042 Cell: (Port) +258 82 873 6196 Email:casindiralodge@gmail.com
Comfortable tranquility by the lakeside Twin rooms with own veranda, overlooking the lake. Full board rates and cash bar Fishing trips, crocodile farm & good birding Two speedboats for fishing and 6 berth houseboat Combination lodge and houseboat trips possible Daily direct flights JHB-Tete return Road transfers from Tete to the lodge Facilities for corporate meetings and small workshops/training sessions
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4 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
BUSINESS
Investing in Mozambique There are a number of things which need to be taken into account when taking the decision to invest. Perhaps most obvious among these are the questions of language and law. Mozambique’s official language is Portuguese and all official documents must be prepared and managed in this language.
The Mozambican economy is growing rapidly. With new discoveries of mineral resources and the country
Prospective investors should not be discouraged; it is perfectly possible to incorporate a company for any type of investment and to do so in such a way as to protect
Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo, Tete TEL +258 252 20443 CELL ++258 82 8723734 email rob@tetefitmentcentre.com
Firestone and Bridgestone tyres Tyre Fitment Wheel Balancing Puncture repairs Right behind Major Drilling
Investors should allow plenty of time as bureaucratic procedures can be myriad depending on the type of investment. It is important to fully understand the content of any document, and it is worth having key documents translated by a qualified professional to be sure of the content.
Mozambique is definitely open for business and welcomes investors in this exciting economy. Visit www.acismoz.com
Email: acis@acsimoz.com Tel– 0258 23 325 997 ACIS is a Mozambican business association offering services such as information, advocacy and networking, through the medium of English, to existing and potential investors. ACIS – Better Business Together www.acismoz.com
Fuchs Lubricants now in Tete, Mozambique
Agora a venda em Tete
Oleos para Motores Oleos de Transmissão Oleos Hidraulicos Massa Lubrificacão Fluido de Transmissão Automático Oleo fora de Bordo Oleo de Travão Oleo dois Tempo
...styling
It is important to seek qualified legal advice; while this may seem expensive in the short term, it is a worthwhile investment to ensure that all the relevant licenses are obtained. This is particularly important when buying into an existing company, and extensive due diligence is recommended.
As the number of investors grows, so does the number of reputable organizations available to assist them. Comprehensive information about registration of companies, environmental and land licensing, employment and immigration procedures and tourism investments, among others, is made available by such organizations, which also have a database of reputable professionals including lawyers, auditors and translators.
BUSINESS
FUCHS LUBRIFICANTES
Atrás de Major Drilling, E.N.7, Bairro Matundo, Tete Email: donald@fuchsmoz.com Cell : +258 82 509 3330
the investment being made. While it is not for example possible to buy a ‘shelf company’ in Mozambique, investors can consider opening their own company, or buying shares (known as quotas) in an existing company.
By ZT Correspondent
I
nvestment in plant and equipment is extensive and any breakdown can be crippling to even the largest company. Buying cheaper sub standard lubricants is false economy when considering the cost of downtime and overhaul of expensive engines and gearboxes. Fuchs have come into the Tete market knowing that they can provide the best products on the market.
Fuchs is the largest independent lubricants company in the world, and specialists in automotive, mining, industrial and agricultural lubrication. Fu c h s p r o d u c t s a r e designed to operate under the harshest of conditions and provide maximum protection to equipment. The products in our range carry approvals from a wide range of international automotive and industrial equipment manufacturers including Daimler Chrysler and Porche.
Fuchs Lubricants have been manufacturing specialized greases for the mining industry since1910 and are market leaders in their field. The Noxal brand of greases and rope dressings and the Ceplattyn range of open gear lubes are approved on mills and crushers throughout the mining industry. Fuchs has a product for all open cast and underground mining applications from automated greasing systems to hydraulic oils. Fuchs are committed to providing the best quality products, backed by
Fuchs Lubricants now in Mozambique
PHOTO: FUCHS
M
ozambique’s economy is g row ing rapidly and many people are showing an interest in investing. Professional advice is strongly recommended to save mistakes and expense in the long term.
The country’s legal tradition follows that of Portugal, and is a civil law system, which tends to be less familiar to people in the region. In addition Mozambique’s legal framework, while regularly being updated, still tends to be bureaucratic.
PHOTO: Jon Viducich
becoming an increasingly attractive tourist destination, many people are showing an interest in investing.
By ACIS Mozambique
technical expertise to minimize expensive plant and vehicle breakdowns. A concerted effort is constantly being made to reduce the carbon footprint and minimize damage to the environment. This ongoing development process ensures that Fuchs Lubricants will meet or exceed the future requirements of industry.
Zambezi Traveller
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Travellers Friend 5
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
6 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
The wonderful business Tete, Mozambique, a city known for its blistering heat and burgeoning coal economy, is considered by many to be a place best suited to men. By Gigi Guimbeau
A
t least 52 different nationalities are represented in the province, with a colorful mix of first and third world cultures. It’s a place where any mistakes can result in huge costs; a cutthroat environment where only the careful and perseverant succeed. Despite the myriad challenges, many brave women, including those highlighted here, have come to this pioneering city to seek their fortunes. They have either started businesses of their own or play an important role alongside their partners, and many are truly thriving in their new lives. We salute you…
Bébé Missanga
Create the Moment!
I
n the short year since her arrival in Tete from Angola, bubbly, tireless
Bébé Missanga has transformed a run-down car wash on the banks of the Zambezi into an incredible restaurant, offering amazing food with a stunning view of Tete’s picturesque bridge. The name of the Cigana Restaurant (cigana means gypsy) reflects Missanga’s long and challenging journey to the establishment’s opening day, though she says that the experience has been largely positive. As a newcomer to the city, Missanga views the expatriate community in Tete as a large family, and her care for her wide-ranging clientele is evident as she warmly greets guests between trips to the kitchen and open-air bar. While doing business in Tete presents real difficulties for anyone, Missanga says that being a woman isn’t really an
Cigana Restaurant
A stunning location on the banks of the Zambezi where one can enjoy tasty Portuguese cuisine with the gentle sound of Latino music in the background.
obstacle. She loves the city’s vibe, explaining that Tete has given her great opportunity to live and feel free. Bébé Quote: If you can’t make it in Tete, you won’t make it anywhere! The opportunities are ripe for the picking.
Debbie Killoran Never Say Never
F
ive and a half years ago, Debbie Killoran and a friend travelled from Vilanculos to Tete in a dhow that had been hastily transformed into a sea-going vessel. After sailing along 1000 kms of coastline and 600 kms upriver, Killoran arrived in Tete with only a kit bag. She bought a guesthouse, Casa Branca, which came with a rather questionable past. With the help of friends and her plucky, never say never attitude, the adventurous woman started what became a remarkable transformation. She now owns 12 guesthouses, which keeps her incredibly busy, and she has also helped oversee and build the amazing
Marisa Braga
Bébé Missanga
Jenni Bekker
Café del Rio on the banks of the Zambezi.
her business in 2011. Friends had suggested she come and look at the opportunities Tete had to offer, and she has never left.
Braga loves what the rapidly expanding city of Tete has presented her with - many friends and many opportunities.
Killoran is very excited about the possibilities that Tete has to offer right now, as it grows rapidly in both size and opportunity. Debbie Quote: There is huge risk in doing business in Mozambique, so make sure you do things right.
Marisa Braga Belong With The Winners
M
arisa Braga was born in Moatize, has lived and worked all around the world, and finally landed back in Tete, opening
24hr SERVICE
e taste of moza te th mbi a r b qu e l e ce
Convivial Bar | Good Music | Live Entertainment | Functions
KASEKOME
Braga started off small, doing outside catering, and her business has expanded rapidly. She now owns two chicken takeaways called Kasekome, meaning ‘We eat here,’ on either side of the Tete bridge, and she still does outside catering for any type of function. Her aim is to do 3000 meals per day and she is fast reaching her goal. “Small beginnings turn into larger futures,” she says. Braga is a positive, strong and determined lady and nothing will hold her back. She is a single mother with commitments at home and in the work place. Progress has brought its challenges, but the positives far outweigh the negatives.
Marisa Quote: “I belong to the winners’ world!.”
Graziela de Souza Where the Universe Leads
G
raziela de Souza has travelled the world w ork i n g for t he United Nations and the World Bank, to name two, and has bravely faced the wild frontier of Tete. De Souza moved to Tete from Maputo with just US$10,000. She paid rent up front for six months and voila, the birth of Thee Deli, a delicatessen selling food products from around the world. After many setbacks she also started a restaurant, La Bella Italia, which also includes outside catering for private functions.
TA K E AWAY
Our 1st Anniversary!
Everyone knows there is nothing like a good peri peri chicken available for you any time you need it. We cater for small or large functions. It is very easy to find us, cross over the bridge, heading to Zambia/Malawi, turn right immediately after crossing, then turn left and follow the road along the Zambezi River, Cigana is approximately one kilometer down the road.
+ 258 846596806 | bebemissanga@hotmail.com
+258 252 20323 +258 84 724 6435 info@villahabsburg.com Tete, Moçambique
|
www.villahabsburg.com
Av da Independencia, Opposite FNB - Tete Phone: Tel: 84 7440376 / 82 27 64 340/ 84 71 38 911
Steel Sheds - Prefabricated or Custom Made Fencing - All Types Water Tanks - Standard or Heavy Duty Car Shade Ports
Av. da Liberdade, Bairro Filipe Samuel Magaia, Tete | +258825655750 or +258822353110 | brendon@avalonmoz.com or jenni@avalonmoz.com
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Zambezi Traveller
women of Tete
Travellers Friend 7
CONSERVATION
Easy tips to help our river Even the mighty Zambezi, symbol of wild Africa, is being affected by pollution. A timely reminder on the three ‘R’s of ecological responsibility – Reduce, Re-use and Recycle.
Nikki Killoran
Once In A Lifetime
PHOTOS: Gigi Guimbeau
N Debbie Killoran
Graziela de Souza
Nikki Killoran
She will go out of her way to find anything you need. She flies in sushi once a week for a customer, a small example of her dedication to serving the needs of the community.
razor write, palisade and electric), plastic water tanks and car ports.
Tete, Mozambique. On arrival she negotiated to buy a piece of land on the banks of the Zambezi River, from a “very nice old family with no funny business going on.”
As founder and current president of the Lions Club in Maputo, de Souza has worked to bring the club to Tete as well. Juggling these businesses and being a single mum of three is not easy, but she does it with grace, dignity and a quiet strength in a very tough enviroment. Graziela Quote : To all women out there, “get up and do something; don’t be afraid to try.”
Jenni Bekker Being Part Of All This
J
enni Bek ker has an inspiring, positive and upbeat persona l it y, something that will take you far in Tete. She is afraid of nothing and tackles anything head-on. Bekker and her husband, Brendon, moved to Tete from Chimoio, sensing new opportunities here. Their business has gone from strength to strength and includes steel sheds (pre-fabricated or custom made), fencing (security, game, barbed or
New facilities and new companies are opening daily in Tete and “it’s so wonderful being part of all this,” says Bekker. She is an equal shareholder in the company with her husband, and she holds her ground in the man’s world of Tete. Bekker is currently doing an international certificate Health and Safety, and fits in other courses which benefit the company. She is fluent in Portugese and says it helps tremendously. Jenni Quote : If you make your environment pleasant, you can live anywhere.
The building of a guest house then started, which isn’t as easy as it sounds. It has now been running for a few years and is absolutely beautiful, with four rooms which are comfortable, cool and filled with gorgeous furniture and art. Monika Quote : Be flexible. Pay attention to what’s happening around you.
Monika von Habsburg
After years spent travelling and working all over the world, Killoran is surprised to finally be settling down in Tete. She aims to provide an oasis on the banks of the Zambezi; an “African moment” to take away. It certainly is that. She has decorated the café beautifully, creating incredible artwork, lighting and furniture using locally-sourced woods and products. Killoran has had to train staff from “below ground zero,” and seeing what they now produce has been her greatest delight. As she says, opening the café has required patience as long and endless as the mighty Zambezi. Quote : Make something incredibly well that people will keep coming back for.
MOSQUITO NETS
Be Flexible; Pay Attention
W
hat an inspiration this dynamic 72-year-old lady is! Three years ago Monika von Habsburg’s son said to her, “Mother, if you are bored there is lots happening in Tete, so please come and join us,” and join him she did. She proceeded to pack up her entire life in Scotland, including many beautiful antiques, and shipped it all to
i k k i K i lloran is a talented woman with incredible energy and enthusiasm. Her mother, Debbie, who began building Café Del Rio a few years ago, offered her this “once in a lifetime” opportunity, and the young entrepreneur grabbed it with both hands.
donabellamoz@gmail.com
By Tash Morgan
M
essages of impending doom concerning air pollution, water contamination and greenhouse gases seem applicable to some far-off place, and irrelevant to you and I. However, studies have shown that the Zambezi River is facing major ecological challenges including pollution from litter, sewage effluent, agricultural run-off, and mine waste. Pollution causes unseen environmental damage such as oxygen depletion of the river water, affecting animal and plant populations. River pollution also facilitates the spread of diseases associated with poor hygiene such as cholera, typhus and dysentery. Experts say that pollution in the Zambezi basin had reached appalling proportions. So, what can you do to take responsibility for your own waste, and make a positive change to your immediate river environment? Practice the three ‘R’s, Reduce, Re-use and Recycle, and you’ll be well on your way. Reduce Your choices make a difference! Reducing the amount of plastic you purchase assists in waste management, and increases the chances of maintaining and rehabilitating our environment. For example, buy tinned cold drinks, instead of plastic bottled cold drinks; high quality products instead of poor quality plastic items that break easily and will be thrown away; items that offer reduced packaging, etc. Re-use Re-use your plastic shopping packets, or thicker, stronger plastic or fabric bags. Take these with you when you do your shopping, and ask the cashier, or packing attendant, to use them to pack your purchases into instead of the plastic bags provided. You will automatically reduce the number of plastic bags littering our streets, clogging up drains, polluting the river, etc. Recycle Recycling projects are easy, fun, and can provide endless hours of entertainment for the whole family. Let your creativity take flight by making a cooler box out of polystyrene packing material; beer mats or coasters out of woven plastic bags; jewellery out of bottle tops; musical instruments out of tin cans, cereal boxes, and string; etc. Recycling makes a huge difference to our environment by removing potentially harmful items from it, and turning them in to something useful.
Bulk sale of Meat and Chicken Products
Relax by the tranquility of the Zambezi
Thee Deli
We stock Meats Prosciutos Salamis Variety of Cheeses (Fresh & Smoked Mozzarella, Blue Cheese, Mature Cheddar) Olive Oils Salmon (Fresh & Smoked) Anchovies Various Seafoods Artichokes Pickled bringels Mushrooms Onions Peppers Ostrich or Springbok Carpaccio Biltongs Cheese Grillers Smoked & Plain Spare Ribs Sushi Fresh Vegetables & Fruits Fresh Mozzarela and Fresh Milk (By Order). We provide a delivery service. Cell: +258 843718940, Tel: +258 21 252 2 3308, Fax: + 258 252 23308/7 Email: gratsie2002@yahoo.com Address: Avenida da Independencia #926
LA BELLA ITALIA Come and enjoy a luxurious dining experience Nicolette +258 847492380 Address: Zambezi North Bank, Tete Cross over the bridge, heading to Zambia/Malawi, Turn right immediately after crossing, Turn left, follow the road along the Zambezi River, find us approximately 1.5 kilometers down the road.
Specialists in Pasta Dishes & Pizzas Raviolis, pastas with salmon, Carpaccio, Tiramissu & cheese cake. We have the best pizza's in town. Our food is fresh lean and tasty. A delicacy is our Panzerrotti Rossi & Funghi (pasta with dried Mushrooms). Cell: +258 828 338 942 / +258 848249056 / +258 824005820 / +258 843718940 Tel: +258 21 252 2821, Fax: +258 252 23308/7 Email: gratsie2002 yahoo.com Address: Avenida Eduardo Moldlane, Tete - Almost adjacent to Home Centre
We cater for private functions as well and can alter our menu to cater for various requirements
zambezi cahora bassa & tete
PHOTO: Wynand Welthagen
CULTURE
Gule Wamkulu spotted on the road between Furancungo and Cazulo
By Tash Morgan
I
n the mood for adventure, we recently decided to return to Tete from Dedza via Furancungo, and were lucky enough to encounter a ghostly group of Gule Wamkulu who appeared beside us on the road. The road less travelled is of ten more exciting and rewarding than the beaten track. Although long, it proved to be a worthy detour, not only for the cool, fresh, mountain air and magnificent views over the valley at sunset, but also because we were lucky (or some would consider unlucky) to encounter a ghostly group of Gule Wamkulu who appeared, as if by magic, beside us on the road. The Chewa believe that living things were created by Chiuta (God) on the mountain of Kapirintiwa which borders Malawi and Mozambique. Ancestors and spirits of animals, and plants, interact with the living world primarily through the dancing of those initiated to Nyau, or secret societies. Gule Wamkulu, literally meaning ‘big dance,’ have become representatives for secret societies of traditional Chewa religious practices.
A ghostly encounter far from anywhere Gule Wamkulu dances are commonly performed in the season following the harvest in July. However, they also accompany initiation ceremonies, weddings, funerals, and the installation or death of a chief. On these occasions, Nyau dancers wear costumes and masks made of wood, straw and animal skins. Gule dancers play a variety of evil characters that represent certain forms of misbehaviour in order to teach moral and social values to the audience. They perform movements with extraordinary energy, entertaining and scaring the audience as representatives of the world of spirits and the dead. Only the chief who appointed them to drive away evil spirits from the village knows who they are. Gule dancers are considered to be in an unpredictable animal or ancestral state, and are not to be approached. If one has the misfortune of passing a Gule on the road, it is tradition to drop a few coins for them – never handing them the money directly for fear they will grab you and take you for ritual offerings. Gule dancers may appear in small groups of four or five and villagers do their best to
Zambezi Traveller
PHOTOGRAPHY
Join Tete’s photo club
avoid any encounters with them. More common in the afternoon, they are a strong incentive for attending to all business outside the home in the early hours. While many traditional forms of song and dance across the globe are eroding, the Chewa have managed to incorporate modern elements into Gule Wamkulu, such as masked representations of politicians, public policy issues, HIV, globalization and technology. It’s estimated that more than a thousand different Gule mask types exist, including helicopters and television sets. This wide range of symbolism ensures an active connection between the characters and the audience. However, there is some concern that this vibrant living tradition is at threat from lack of interest among young people, and the lack of appreciation for the value of this traditional practice to Chewa culture. So, should you happen to cross paths with a group of Gule Wamkulu on a dusty Mozambiquan afternoon, be sure to show your respects by dropping a few coins for them before they slip back into the shadows.
NEWS
Following the World Cup in South Africa, a group of boys began playing pick-up soccer games in my yard every evening. I love the interplay between lighting, dust and action in this shot.
PHOTO: Jon Viducich
8 Travellers Friend
I love the drama and whimsy that baobabs add to any shot, and, fortunately, there are plenty of them in Tete! I took this from atop a grain elevator just outside of Tete City.
By Gigi Guimbeau Photography enthusiasts form a club and find subjects in Tete, Mozambique. Most outsiders regard Tete as a hot, dusty, inhospitable locale, wholly devoid of beauty. With competing natural wonders like Victoria Falls and Lake Malawi, it’s hard to imagine foreigners visiting the city with the hope of enjoying anything but the economic opportunities offered by the region’s recent growth.
As an aspiring artist living in Tete, I was determined to discover something beautiful in this area, and struck out with a fellow photography enthusiast one Saturday last year to begin taking photos. I’ve made two surprising discoveries in the months since: Tete is full of dramatic and stunning scenes, if you keep your eyes open, and there’s actually quite a community of photographers in town! After creating a photography blog www.snappingafrica. blogspot.com to share my shots, many others have contacted me
with ideas and questions, and we’ve formed a club around our common passion. It’s been wonderful to learn new techniques from each other, and to spend weekends exploring the city and surrounding areas together. New visitors of all skill levels are always welcome to join us, so look up our club if you’re in town, and don’t forget your camera! Visit http://www.snappingafrica.blogspot.com/
No more coal licenses The
Are you an expatriate living & working in Mozambique/Tete? Are you paid in a foreign currency ~ £/$/euros? Do you have an offshore bank account in the currency you earn in? Do you want to save and build wealth in hard/foreign currencies offshore? The deVere Group specialise in: Offshore Banking Offshore Retirement & Education Planning Currency Trading (Forex) Life & Medical Insurance General Wealth Management Mozambique Office: deVere Group, 420 Edificio, Jat 1, Ave 25 Setembro, Maputo, Caixa Postal 928. Tete Contact: Thomas Roberts, +258 844 388 598. Email: thomas.roberts@devere-group.com
Mozambican government has announced that, for the time being at least, it will not issue any more licenses for coal exploration or mining in the western province of Tete.
Test well drilled by Anadarko Petroleum confirms existence of natural gas in Rovuma The Lagosta 3 test well drilled by Anadarko Petroleum in the Rovuma Basin has been concluded with very positive results that confirm the size of the seam and reserves of natural gas found there.
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Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo, Tete. We are right behind Major Drilling Tel: +258 252 20272 Cell: +258 82 805 5054 +258 82 509 3330 email: ben@proferragem.com or donald@proferragem.com
Mozambique Trading Company Limitada Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo, Tete Tel: +258 252 20268 Cell: +258 82 509 3330 email: donald@moztrade.com RIGHT BEHIND MAJOR DRILLING!
AMC (SAMCHEM) DRILLING FLUIDS
CLM Transport Lda specialises in the transport of containerised and dry bulk cargoes throughout South Africa, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Zambia and Malawi. We pride ourselves in building strong relationships and being your business partner rather than your supplier. Brendan: + 258 82 509 3930 | Thom: + 258 82 305 7711 Email: info@clmtransport.com
www.clmtransport.com
Okavango
9
on your way to the Zambezi
CONSERVATION
The Boteti River f lows again
We look at nature taking its course and man making a difference. By Frances Jackson
D
avid Dugmore, MD of Meno A Kwena comments:
“The arrival of the Okavango Delta waters along the Boteti River at Meno A Kwena was the most special moment I have ever experienced after a decade of seeing so much desperation for water amongst so much wildlife. The dependence of wildlife on our limited, yet so very precious water was almost too much to bear as we helplessly watched many animals dying of thirst and starvation. To hear the sounds at night of thousands of animals trying to suck water from damp earth was so sad, yet as long as our diesel pumps could be heard we knew we were doing as much as we could. The intense pressure on us to make sure water was supplied efficiently and sufficiently for wildlife, while keeping guests entertained and the community supportive was unbelievable, yet we prevailed, convinced the river would flow before we collapsed and gave up.” Veterinary fences, competition for water from both wild life and domestic livestock and the drying up of the river in the 1990’s resulted in an estimated 100,000 zebra and wildebeest being trapped in the Makgadikgadi Pans National park, unable to move to Okavango Delta and the Chobe River. Southern Africa’s biggest large herbivore migration was virtually wiped out in less than a decade. We have a very different scenario now. Ten years ago Dugmore leased tribal land opposite the national park, overlooking the dry deep Boteti river bed. Utilizing water beneath the surface he starting pumping and very soon large numbers of zebra, wildebeest and elephants were congregating at the waterhole, they kept coming over the long dry months, until his many pumps were supplying 100,000 litres of water all day, every day.
“Almost ten years down the road we look back at a dramatic process that turned a serious human/wildlife conflict zone from a dead end into an impressive model for intelligent responsible and sustainable tourism” says Dugmore. “There is still a lot to do, and because of this we have started Conservation Safaris.”
Elephants dominate our waterhole while zebra desperately wait
Elephants swim where once they competed for limited pumped water
OBITUARY
We salute Trevor Foster
The view of Nunda from the river
PHOTOS: NUNDA
By ZT Correspondent On 15 February 2012, Trevor Ronald Foster, part owner of Nunda River Lodge, Kavango, Namibia, passed away peacefully in his sleep at the age of 68.
Trevor was born in South Africa and studied engineering in Cape Town. In 1963 he arrived in South West Africa where he spent his years in the engineering field as well as the fishing industry in Walvis Bay. He also consulted to various fishing companies throughout the world and in particular South America. His love and passion for the outdoors led him throughout Africa and his vision was to build and operate a lodge where he could spend his retirement years. After travelling through Africa for three years looking for the right place, he chose the banks of the Okavango River, Namibia. In 2006 the ground was secured and building commenced. The lodge doors opened in 2008, but Trevor never stopped building! Trevor was tireless in his efforts to create a unique and special lodge. His spirit and creativity will be everlasting. He leaves his wife Eugen, sons Garth and Ian, and three grandchildren.
PHOTOS: MENO-A-KWENA
Environmental education support by Meno A Kwena Tented Camp
MORE ONLINE
Read Zambezi Traveller’s interview with David Dugmore on-line. Discover how an area that was decimated of game because animals could not follow their ancient migrations has once again become abundant. For a change, man has truly made a positive difference. Involving community in wildlife conservation
Old World Safari Charm B O T S WA N A
Kavango/Caprivi, Namibia
an experience you will seldom encounter on the African continent. Tel +264 66 259093 Cell: +264 813101730 Fax +264 66 259094 Fax to email: 088610233 Email: bookings@nundaonline.com www.nundaonline.com
Tel: +267 686 0981 or +267 686 1634 Cell: +267 7132 6085 kkreservations@ngami.net www.menoakwena.com
Zambezi News
chobe 10 TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River PHOTOGRAPHY
Chobe kaleidoscope
Tom Varley shares his incredible visuals taken one morning in Chobe Game Reserve. Chobe is world renowned for providing an all encompassing wild life experience. These beautiful photographs tell it all.
Camping Safaris Transfers Educational Tours Lodge Accommodation Chobe Game Drives Boat Cruises and Fishing Victoria Falls Day Trips www.classifiedsafaris.com Tel: +267 71691259 +267 71421153 +267 7253 7162, Kasane Botswana Email: classifiedsafaris@botsnet.bw bookings@classifiedsafaris.com
Contact details: Tel: +267 76 614 211 Email: kwalape@africasafaricamps.com
Situated in the Heart of Kasane we offer the following; » Chobe Full Day Trips – Options available » Victoria Falls Day Trips – Options available » Game Cruises | Game Drives | Fishing Trips
Tom Varley in the wild documenting meercats
Victoria Falls Productions
Transfers to and from Vic Falls, Zambia and Namibia We can tailor make your safari to suit your specific needs be it a Game drive or Boat cruise. Our reservations team operates 24 hours a day to conveniently book your safari or just that simple enquiry you may have. All our guides are professional at what they do and they will leave a lasting impression of your visit to Botswana.
Private Photography / Videography services Tom Varley will take high quality Pictures / Video of your Experience in Africa
We offer a personal service by professional photographers. We can join your day trip in Chobe, trip to Victoria Falls, or anything else you’d like to keep a memory of. Tom Varley, a camera man and a photographer, was raised in the Zimbabwean bush. His love for the wildlife and the area is reflecting in his work and led him to publish a coffee table book about Victoria Falls.
Cell: +263 712 616 874 Tel: + 263 13 406 79 Email: tomvarley@me.com www.vicfallsproductions.com
Time is for spending; spend it wisely with Chobezi Hylton Ross Touring Safari, and it will be time well spent.
• Chalets, ensuite with air con • Safari tents with shared ablution facilities • Private camp sites with shared ablution facilities
• Restaurant and sunset bar • Pool and bar area • Conference facility • Activities: Game drive, boat cruises, fishing, Vic Falls day trips
Kwalape means ‘at home’ in Setswana
Call us on +267 6250992, 6251667 Fax +267 6251297 Emergency 24 hour Mobile +267 76201918 E mail: info@chobezi.com / operations@chobezi.com / chobezi@yahoo.com
zambezi chobe
Zambezi Traveller
SPORT
COMMUNITY
Mobile vets treat local dogs spectators were abundant. Pet owners are recognizing the improvement of the condition of their animals after treatment.
Kasane spaying programme
By ZT correspondent
W
el l over t wo hundred dogs were treated in Kasane and Kazungula, Botswana, in January, by Vets On Wheels, an international, non-profit mobile vet service. With assistance from their local partners, the Kasane branch of the Botswana Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, the Maun Animal Welfare Society, and local NGO
Travellers Friend 11
PHOTO: VETS ON WHEELS
Caracal, VOW vets sterilized and vaccinated 191 dogs, and an additional 51 dogs which had been previously sterilized received vaccinations. Vaccination in combination with sterilization increases the general health of the domestic dog population and keeps their numbers from exploding. This serves as a preventative measure to control the spread of several canine diseases. Demand for this service was overwhelming in both villages. Many residents of both Kasane and Kazungula were already familiar with sterilization campaigns and
The surgeries, which were performed in the open, provided great entertainment as the vets showed off their skills to an appreciative audience of children and adults. Besides being castrated or spayed and vaccinated, the dogs were also treated against worms and external parasites. After sleeping off the effects of the anesthetic for about an hour most patients were in a fit state to make their own way home. Many were carted off by their owners in private cars, taxis and even wheelbarrows. The ultimate goal of organizations like VOW, MAWS and the Kasane BSPCA is to reduce the population of dogs in the area. There should be fewer unwanted and uncared-for dogs wandering the streets, spreading diseases to both people and animals, domestic and wild. In reducing the population, there will be less competition for food and therefore less need for drastic culling measures to be taken in the future.
Mowana Rebels take title By Musa wa Phuma
A
coup for the hospitality industry as hotel team Mowana Rebels w in t he Chobe Regional Football Finals. A blow-by-blow account of the event follows. Judgement Day came in February when Mowana Rebels took on Kachikau Football Club, David versus Goliath style, in the Chobe regional football finals in Pandamatenga. Pound for pound Kachikau FC was a very strong team in all departments and they dominated the first 15 minutes of the game, forcing Rebels coach Willie Haskins to change his tactics. That soon paid dividends with the Rebels scoring their first goal, and after the first goal it became an avalanche of goals. The mighty Rebels were three goals ahead by half time. The initial game was played on the side lines; hats off to both
PHOTO: Cresta Mowana
The players pose with their silverware
coaches who did their homework - at the end of the day the fans had an exciting game and football was the winner. Kachikau FC never gave in, even when the Rebels came marauding into their half, always piling the pressure on the Rebels. Eventually it paid off as Kachikau scored, and they had dominance for five or so minutes. Then the Rebels took off like a house on fire and revisited the Londoners, as they are affectionately called, in their 18 yard area and the pressure was unbearable. Kachikau
defence fouled Latti (Gweta Express), the mighty Rebels were awarded a spot kick and Commodore scored his hat trick. The road to the final wasn’t an easy one for Mowana Rebels. There were 31 teams in the region competing for a spot in the final. Just to mention a few that fell to the wrath of the Rebels: Cross Border with the score 7 to 2 to the mighty Rebels; Rebels 5, Prisons 1; BAMB 2, Rebels 3; Social for Joy 4, Rebels 5 – this one was decided on penalties.
A big five safari destination! Kasane – Chobe – Botswana
Lodge and Camping Accommodation: A variety of options from family and twin rooms with ensuites in our lodges and camping. All amenities including a bar, restaurant and swimming pool. Activities: Chobe National Park game drives and boat cruises are available daily. Chobe Day trips from Victoria Falls or Livingstone include breakfast and a lunch cruise – an all day activity. Mobile safaris: Explore Chobe, Savuti, Moremi, Okavango, Nxai Pan, Makgadikgadi and Deception Valley. Choose from budget, semi participation, semi-luxury or tailor made safaris.
Telephone: +267 6250 995 / Fax: +267 6250 314 Email: thebe@chobenet.com / reservations@theberiversafaris.com
www.theberiversafaris.com
zambezi chobe
12 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
HISTORY
The first rhinos journey to Chobe By Peter Hepburn
I
n 1967, Botswana received its first two pairs of white rhino from the Natal Parks Board. These rhino were an independence gift from the President of South Africa to the President of Botswana. Rob Backus, a voluntary service officer who had arrived in Botswana in 1964 and had worked with Pat Hepburn in the early development of the Chobe Game Reserve, was tasked to build the bomas for the rhino and then to travel to Umfolosi Game Reserve with the Natal Parks Board rangers to help capture and transport the rhinos back to Botswana.
down and became habituated to humans and vehicles. They were gradually tempted into large wooden crates where they were fed and watered until ready to travel to their new home.
Backus has sent ZT his private memoirs of his time working in the Chobe National Park in its early days. In his words… ”I went out daily with Mike, a Natal Parks Board ranger, looking for suitable candidates of breeding age for relocation. This involved getting as close as possible to study the health and fitness, age, relationship, breeding status etc of each individual. We had a lot of fun stalking these prehistoric behemoths. Darting, following up and recovery was a hectic affair, requiring stealth, stamina and teamwork. Once hit with an aluminium dart containing M99, fired from a .410
Toro Safari Lodge Botswana - Chobe - Kasane Area
“Come and enjoy your break on the banks of the Chobe River where 2 rivers and 4 African countries meet”
The rhinos arriving in Botswana
calibre tranquiliser gun, the rhino would inevitably take off into the densest thickets of acacia thorn. We used game guards dressed in leather jackets and chaps, carrying walkie-talkies and mounted on horses with thorn-proof leather armour-
plating, to follow up and find the drugged animals. Hurriedly a team would then cut a track in and we would winch them onto low loaders for transport back to kraals before they woke up. The rhino were housed in enclosures until they quietened
Marketing boost for Chobe Marina “There are some very exciting plans for the refurbishment of Chobe Marina Lodge during 2012, and once all on line, the changes would completely enhance the guest experience,” said Heath Dhana, chief operations officer of Chobe Marina Lodge and African Odyssey, its activities and transfer division.
By Diana Howell
Activities 3 hr game drive, sunset boat cruise into Chobe National Park and sunset boat cruise to where the four countries meet. Transfers to Victoria Falls. Tiger Fishing. Relax in our Restaurant & Bar PO Box 511, Kasane, Botswana Tel +(267) 6252694 Fax +(267)6252695 torolodge@botsnet.bw www.torolodge.co.bw
Somewhere in Northern Transvaal we stopped late at night at a motel for a few hours sleep, parking our charges in the car park with the guards
BUSINESS
Chobe Marina Lodge view from the river
Accommodation Executive rooms, River Chalets, Standard Chalets, Private Ablutions, Campsites
After being trapped in their crates and sedated, the first selected breeding pair of rhino were winched onto their respective trucks and we set off, with the South African and Botswana flags proudly flying and with two game guards, on the long journey north via Beitbridge and Rhodesia (Zimbabwe).
African Hotels and Adventure, the tourism property management division of Tourvest Accommodation and Activities, has acquired the sales and marketing contract for the Chobe Marina Lodge in Kasane. The lodge is situated on the banks of the Chobe River in Kasane in north-eastern Botswana. It is in close proximity to the Chobe National Park, the Okavango
PHOTO: CHOBE MARINA
Delta, the Kasane Forest Reserve, the Caprivi Strip and the Zambezi River, with the Victoria Falls a twohour drive away. The lodge comprises 60 different accommodation units ranging from studios, apartments, chalets and suites, each fitted with air-conditioning, television, telephone and mini-bar. It also has a 100-seater conference room overlooking the Chobe River with views of the Caprivi Strip. Game drives, river cruises and themed-dinner evenings are available.
Tourvest chief executive Gary Elmes told ZT that the property is the company’s first in Botswana and is a strategic fit with its activity-based operations, such as Wild Horizons, which are largely concentrated in the Victoria Falls. “Chobe Marina is a world-class property and a valuable addition to our growing portfolio,” he said. “It will also help the Tourvest group consolidate its position in the Victoria Falls area and to grow its presence into new highly sought after safari destinations.”
sleeping in the cabs. At about two o’clock in the morning we were woken by irate noises coming from two cantankerous un-sedated rhino kicking their crates and squealing up a storm and an equally irate crowd of wide awake guests demanding some peace and quiet. The manager asked us to leave and, after administering some more sleep muti to our passengers and some ‘wide awake pills’ for us, we continued our journey. On arrival the crates were manhandled off the trucks by a gang of labourers and game scouts and the weary travellers were released into the individual mopane pole kraals we had built under the huge Acacia tortillis tree near Serondella. After a couple of days to ensure the rhino were settling in we repeated the journey, bringing another two back within a week. In a letter to me dated 29 February 1968, Pat Hepburn wrote: “I let them go into the paddock at Christmas and they’re thriving. Except Henry’s hocks are still raw. They’re all in goodish condition and Squeaker and Pandane are very tame. Henry and Bukale are both very wild” MORE ONLINE
New opportunities with basketry skills Local NGO CARACAL launches a programme to help destitute women in Kasane, Botswana, by enhancing their basket weaving business skills More CARACAL projects Biodiversity Centre Environmental Education Centre Community Craft Centre Wildlife Rescue and Orphanage Centre
zambezi chobe
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 13
HISTORY
History of Chobe National Park – Part 8 By Judy Hepburn
T
he early 1960s was a busy time for the banks of the Chobe River, south of the then small settlement of Kasane. Pat Hepburn and his newly appointed crew of workers began the arduous task of mapping and cutting what would be the initial network of roads, designed to offer maximum game viewing along the banks of the river and up amongst the mukusi forests off the sand ridge. I am sad to say that I did not know my late father-in-law long enough. He was a wealth of knowledge, extremely well read with an instinctive understanding of not only the flora and fauna of the area but the human being as well. Pat had a quiet but authoritative demeanor together with an amazingly practical attitude to life. My favourite quote among his many wise observations was, “Any fool can be uncomfortable,” so I am sure his camp
ZT’s historian introduces Rob Backus who as a teenager fell in with Chobe’s first warden and fell in love with the brand new Chobe wildlife reserve. was very agreeable! While the first Department of Wildlife and National Parks base was being built, accommodation consisted of a couple of tents and a very rustic ablution block under the big baobab tree on the hill behind Chobe Safari Lodge.The camp was replaced by offices, workshops, the warden’s house and staff lodgings, the remains of which can still be seen on the southern side of Sedudu Island. Rob Backus was one of the many young adventurers who had the pleasure of working with Pat Hepburn. Rob hailed from England and arrived in Francistown in September 1964 as a Voluntary Service Officer at the tender age of 18. Backus kept a daily diary of his experiences in Botswana in those early days. The District
Pat Hepburn, first Warden, Chobe National Park 1961
The sights, sounds and smells, the excitement and romance and the multitude of unspoiled and exotic animals in their natural environment represented ‘the real thing’ to me. Commissioner of Francistown at that time, Phil Steenkamp, invited Backus to accompany him to Kasane and one of his diary entries reads:-
“Wed. Sept 16th 1964. While the DC was doing his admin work I went fishing for tiger fish on the Chobe but caught nothing (too hot!). At 3.00 pm Pat Hepburn, the Game Warden, took us by Landrover into the reserve which had only been a reserve for three years and open to the public for one month so the game was still very wild.
impala, tsessebe, lechwe, baboons, monkeys, steenbok, duiker, warthog, zebra, sable, eland, spoor of lion, black mamba (9 ft), hippo, Egyptian geese, eagles, vultures, pelicans, storks, spurwinged geese, and dozens of other birds and beasts that I can’t even remember.
represented ‘the real thing’ to me. It was my holy grail and I had found it here. In one afternoon all my childhood reading and dreams had been realized and I vowed that, by hook or by crook, I would return to Chobe and work in the Game Department.”
“Pat Hepburn is a game expert and storybook game Warden who is fearless and knows the animals as individuals… The sights, sounds and smells, the excitement and romance and the multitude of unspoiled and exotic animals in their natural environment
Backus did return and his recorded memories of those days are a wonderful insight into the development of the area. He has kindly emailed us some of his diary excerpts and these memories will be shared in the next issue.
“Game seen (all in large numbers): elephant, kudu, waterbuck, Chobe Bushbuck,
Advertise in the Chobe Classifieds
Accommodation
Bureau de Change
Logistics & Supply
Senyati Safari Camp. Nine SC thatched campsites with power and own ablutions. Three SC chalets, each sleep up to 4. Bar overlooking waterhole. Located 8km from Kazungula on Nata Road.
Cape 2 Cairo Bureau de Change: Have changed there email addresses! You can now reach them on the following: cape2cairo@botsnet.bw & cape2cairo. jo@botsnet.bw . Look forward to hearing from you
Transport and Supply of 30 tonne loads from Johannesburg, Harare, Bulawayo to Victoria Falls, Kasane, Livingstone and Lusaka. Bricks, cement, quarry stone, thatching grass and timber. Contact: +263 772 144996 or +263 9 232376
Accommodation
Air-Con & Refrigeration
Look no further! SERAME AIR-CON & REFRIGERATION For all your air-conditioning and refrigeration needs inc: Sales, Service, Repairs and Installation. We supply LG, Dunham-Bush and Elegance air-conditioners. Contact us for a FREE no obligation quote. No job to big or small. P.O. Box 686, Kasane Tel: (00267) 71771753/76108698 email: mikeclemence@yahoo.com
Automotive Auto World. Spare parts and accessories for all local and imported vehicles. Opposite new bus rank, Kasane. Phone +267 625 2777, Fax +267 625 266.
Purified Water Bottling FLAME DIVISION (PTY) LTD TRADING AS
SPECIALISE IN ALL VEHICLE REPAIRS MAINTENANCE AND OVERHAULS Contact Mike T: 71264875 / 73643003 Plot 37, Pula Road P.O.Box 755, Kasane. Botswana
Aquarite Botswana: Manufactures of purified bottled water and purified soda water. Refill your containers with purified water at a fraction of the cost. Based in Kasane (next to Tyremax in Kazangula) and Maun. Contact had office: +267 686 0283 or Lorraine +267 72989574.
Coffee Shop The Coffee Buzz is situated on the Kasane main road in a beautiful seculed garden. Menu includes: Breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers, muffins & daily specials. Open Monday to Saturday, 7.30am to 14.00pm. Contact us, facebook: coffee buss Kasane, phone +267 71318956.
(next to coffee shop, opposite Chobe Marina Lodge)
Phone: +267 6250 254 Fax: +267 6250 810 Email: cbhsaf@botsnet.bw or judy@chobenet.bw
96 Kasane Tel: 727
49
We provide the following; Chobe day trip - Game drive Boat cruise - Transfers to and from, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe
DREAMS SAFARIS
Tour Operators
We offer....... Game drives * Boat cruises Fishing * Walking safaris Night drives * Bicycle riding Mobile safaris Contact: +267 625 0332 Cell +267 7184 6965 or +267 7317 4300 Email: dreams@botsnet.bw misto_bw@yahoo.com.uk
www.dreamssafaris.com
Umpengu Tours
Chobe Day Trips
Game drives, boat cruises, border pickup. Livingstone and Victoria Falls day trips Cultural village tours No 1 Lady Travel Agent Beside Spar complex, Kasane Ph: +267 625 0131 or +267 716 25521 jeilatravel@yahoo.co.uk joyce.chika@yahoo.com
ztchobe@gmail.com
32
Khaki Fever: Quality you can afford! Go to www. khakifever.co.za to download our latest catalog or email: mayperry@yahoo.com (00267) 71617602 for a sample viewing.
Kasane Computers. Internet café, WiFi zone, photocopying, laminating, bidning, typing, rubber stamps, ink cartridges, toners, CD/DVDs, PCs/ Laptops, printers, PC repairs and more. Offices – Audi Centre, Kasane (opp. Chobe Marina lodge) and Kazungula Junction (near Engen Garage). Phone +267 625 2313 or fax +267 625 2537 or email: info@kasanecomputers.com
Elephant hair bracelets handcrafted in gold and silver by Peter Hepburn Available in Kasane, Botswana at the Audi Centre
GK
Safari Uniforms
Computers & Internet
African Safari Jewellery
BA
Box 784 Kasane Tel: 6250753 Cell: 74796707 Email: pukusafaris@botsnet.bw Fax: 002676250754
KAZUNGULA INDUSTRIAL
+267 72116479
Tour Operators
P
Phone +267 718 81306 or +267 718 26709. Www.senyatisafaricamp.co.bw Email: senyatisafaricamp@gmail.com
Auto Repairs
+267 75968294 Jo Clemence
8
Karen Clemence
Camping overnight in Chobe 1 Night @ USD190 pp all inclusive. Mobile Safaris – Chobe Savuti, Moremi etc 5 nights @ USD1100 pp all inclusive. Boat Cruises and game drives Chobe Day Trip Victoria Falls – visit the magnificent Victoria Falls Transfers available
Plot 10 Kazungula, Botswana Ph: +267 717 8801 or +267 715 16924
Shop 14/15, Hunters Africa (New Arcade - Spar Complex) Fax/Tel: + 267 625 2483 Cell: + 267 721 16479 Shop 1E Kazungula Junction (Next to Engen) Tel: +267 625 2485 / +267 625 2193 www.cape2cairobureau.com
100% Motswana owned company
MORE ONLINE
www.zambezitraveller.com The Zambezi River is now officially online
Hwange
14
on your way to the Zambezi
WILDLIFE
Hwange – a wilderness waiting Hwange National Park is the largest national park in Zimbabwe, covering an area of 14,651 square kilometers. It has a deserved reputation as one of Africa’s finest wildlife sanctuaries, boasting over 100 species of mammal and more than 400 bird species. By ZT correspondent
H
wange National Park is the largest national park in Zimbabwe, covering an area of 14,651 square kilometers. This magnificent area lies in the west of the country, between Bulawayo and Victoria Falls; its western boundary bordering Botswana. It has a deserved reputation as one of Africa’s finest wildlife sanctuaries, boasting over 100 species of mammal and recording more than 400 bird species. Hwange park is steeped in historical events and has many a tale to tell. It was established in 1928 and named then as Wankie Game Reserve, with the first warden being the 22-year old Ted Davison. Before the mid 1850’s, the region was once the hunting ground of the Zulu warrior king Mzilikaze, then it was explored and hunted
rain water, though there are some that are fed by natural groundwater.
by the famous white hunter Frederick Courteney Selous, and hunted seasonal l y by bushmen.
To keep the game within the park, water pumps were installed at pans to create a permanent source of water for the game, and these pumps have become a Hwange legacy. The park developed and became world famous for its great herds of buffalo and elephant, its variety of antelope, predators, and birdlife.
At the turn of the century the government issued licenses and permits for animals to be captured for zoos around the world. Permits were also issued to cut great quantities of teak; these permits were allowed to expire when the area was officially proclaimed a reserve – the first in the country. This vast park is characterized by its diversity in landscape. Two thirds of its area is covered by the Kalahari sands in the south, this terrain being mostly flat with water sources in seasonal pans dotted among large sections of teak forest. As the new park was being established it was realized that the pans filled with the rains and in a good season they could hold water for some time. As the pans dried
PHOTO: Dave CARSON, CAMP HWANGE
Scenic Hwange
however, the game moved outside the park boundary in search of water, to the Gwayi Valley in the south and to the river systems in the north. The Kalahari sands of the south give way to basalts
within which are found granites and inliers (an area of older rocks surrounded by younger rocks) in the north central area of the park. This area is drained by only two rivers, the Deka and the Lukosi and their
tributaries, making this area more rugged. Mopane wood land is common in this region; in the areas without rivers, grassy depressions and pans form, most of which fill with
D uring the economic instability of the last ten years, Hwange has seen a decline in growth of the tourism stronghold in the south. Good news for the park is the development of two new safari camps in the north-central region; Camp Hwange is situated approximately 2 km south of Shumba Pan, and Nehimba Safari lodge which is approximately 60 km north-west of Main Camp on the road to Shumba Pan.
welcome to an
experience of a lifetime hwange national park
Deep in the heart of Hwange National Park, on a large private Concession, lies an age old natural seep, home to abundant wildlife. Enjoy the tranquility of an un-spoilt wilderness. Over 400 different species of birds. Hwange, known as The Land of the Giants is well known for its elephant sightings. Be thrilled with amazing sightings of these majestic creatures on their home turf. Nehimba a safari experience like no other. Accommodation is luxurious, the wildlife spectacular, the hospitality welcoming. You will want to come back.
GPS Coordinates 18 54 08 70 S 26 25 39 65 E Email: admin@nehimba.com www.nehimba.com
zambezi hwange
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 15
EDUCATION
Education to change lives
Community
Communities partnered on human/wildlife conflict
present is Mambanje Primary School which has 104 pupils and 4 teachers and is about 20 kms from the small town of Dete on the edge of Hwange National Park.
Pindile Ncube, CEO of the Hwange Rural District Council, and Roger Parry of the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust.
Hwange Rural District Council representing rural farmers adjacent to protected land has joined Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust and the Hwange Lion Research Project to collect data on human /wildlife conflict and educate school children in conservation. By ZT correspondent
R
ural communities close to the Zambezi National Park and Fuller Forest in Zimbabwe, part of the Kavango Zambezi Trans Frontier Conservation Area, are suffering from loss of livestock to predators. Last year the Hwange Rural District Council called a meeting of local stakeholders to find ways to reduce the impact of wildlife on rural farmers in the Mvutu and Shana Chiefdoms. In response, the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust has formed a partnership with the Hwange Lion Research Project.These agencies are working with the Hwange Rural District Council, the Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, the Forestry Commission and local communities.
T
he Char Char Trust with its iconic Char Char Chest is a feature of a programme to uplift rural schools in memory of a dynamic mother and her ten year old daughter. A bright pink storage trunk sits in the corner of a rural classroom. It can withstand the harsh environment of poorly built buildings, dirt floors, leaking roofs and open windows. Inside, it has carefully designed compartments giving specific places to various items to be used in lessons. The trunk cannot be mistaken for anything else; it is a Char Char Chest. The Char Char Trust was set up in memory of English born, ten and a half year old Charlotte Parker and her mother, Veronica, both of whom lost their lives to an elephant attack in Africa. The family had lived for a time in South Africa
PHOTO: CHAR CHAR TRUST
PHOTO: WILD HORIZON TRUST
By ZT correspondent
Calvin Parker presents the pink storage trunks
where Veronica developed a passion for the education of under privileged children.
until such time as systems are in place and the Trust can move to another school.
Today the Char Char Trust focuses on schools in Zimbabwe. The Hide Safari Lodge in Hwange National Park is the co-ordinator for the Trust in the Hwange region. The Hide assists with identifying schools in need and with the follow-up programme.
The Char Char Chest is given to each grade and this specific trunk will stay with the same class all the way to Grade Seven. The chest is stocked with everything the class will need for a year, and it is then replenished the next year, giving the teacher and the pupils a sense of ownership and responsibility for their education.
Ian Godfrey, manager of The Hide, said there are many schools in need, but once a school has been identified, the Trust works with that school
The school authorities are tasked with being involved in every project. The Trust’s strategy is based on a simple truth: teachers believe in the power of education to change lives. Visit www.thecharchartrust.org www.thecharcharchest.com
FIND YOUR “SELF” IN AFRICA
The Hwange Lion Research Project started a human/ predator conflict data collection project in the Tsholotsho and Mabale areas bordering Hwange National Park three years ago. The resulting data has given an understanding of the conflict situation in the area.
Miombo Safari Camp is now open! With new eco friendly treehouses and revamped and renovated entertaiment areas. Enjoy the old ambience but with a totally new experience! Our all year round waterhole gives you the chance to see elephants and buffalo amongst other game close up. Contact us for our specials for residents and visiting family and friends!
Data was collected by Bongani Dlodlo of the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust and Lovemore Sibanda of Hwange Lion Research. The project was overseen by Roger Parry of the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust, with research consultant Dr Andy Loveridge of the Wildlife Conservation Research Unit, Oxford.
US$125
This project has been funded by the Safari Club International Foundation. An affiliated project involving providing environmental education to school groups has been funded by Cleveland Zoo (USA). In 2011,700 children attended the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust educational programme partnered with Environment Africa.It is planned to host another 800 children during 2012.
The school being assisted by the Trust and the Hide at
The many challenges facing rural schools such as Mambanje include poor facilities, no `electricity, no water, as well as obtaining and keeping qualified teachers. The Trust together with the Hide take on projects at the school - they are currently assisting with obtaining electricity for Mambanje. Another project is a feeding programme as the children are required to be at school for a full day without a midday meal provided.
Full board
(includes lunch/dinner / breakfast and all teas and
Tel: (263-4) 498835/6 Email: reservations@thehide.co.zw
www.thehide.com
RATES
Contact your local agent or Miombo directly at: Bulawayo - Tel: +2639462765. Cell: +263772278230 bonnie@africanencounter.Org Miombo - Tel: +26318695, miombo2@mweb.co.zw Cell Miombo Camp + 263712640357
US$250 All inclusive
(includes game drives, drinks and full Board)
Miombo Is Situated On The Boundary Of The Park 15 Minutes Drive From Main Camp
CAMP
HWANGE
An unforgettable encounter with wild Africa info@camphwange.com | www.camphwange.com
the complete safari Deep within Northern Hwange National Park Classic Safari Camp, 8 rooms with en suit facilities Game Drives Walking Safaris Night Drives Birding Private waterhole with log hide
zambezi hwange
16 Travellers Friend
CONSERVATION in ACTION
Zambezi Traveller
Compiled by Peter Roberts
Travelling lion turns a spotlight on the species We look in detail at our lead story on the Livingstone lion and the issues facing conservation of this species. Dr Andrew Loveridge, director of Hwange Lion Research, explains: “The priority for lion conservation has to be to minimise humanwildlife conflict and limit the impact large carnivores have on people’s livelihoods by finding ways people can live in close proximity with them. Current research by HLR, in collaboration with ZimParks, into conflict between people and lions hopes to assist the future management of these issues with benefits for both local farmers and lion conservation.”
By Peter Roberts
T
Data retrieved from the lion’s GPS collar by Brent Stapelkamp, of the Hwange Lion Research Project, has revealed his route. “He travelled north from his home range, close to Hwange National Park’s Main Camp, in mid December, before travelling west along a line parallel but a couple of kilometres north of the main Hwange-Victoria Falls road, and then turning north again, reaching the Zambezi River in early January. “Initially he meandered upstream on the southern side, before crossing the river around mid January at a point some 50 kilometres downstream of the Victoria Falls at midnight on the 15 January. “The GPS receiver in the collar records a positional point every hour, and shows the lion on the south bank at just before midnight and the north bank an hour later. He obviously swam the river, as indicated by his movement downstream where he crossed, the river being approximately 100 metres wide at this point. “From here he circled inland and round to arrive on the outskirts of Livingstone on 22 January, having
‘Dynamite’ first fitted with a GPS collar in 2005 As few as 20,000 lions remaining in the wild Only six contiguous populations of at least 1,000 adults
PHOTO: MARLEEN POST
The core of the project’s research is achieved through radio-telemetry and more recently the use of GPS collars, such as the one worn by our ‘Zambezi Traveller,’ which are fitted to individual lions and record data on their movements, supplying valuable information to researchers.
FACT FILE
Legend
The point at which he swam across the Zambezi River is approximately 100 metres wide .
GPS Movement Path Roads International Borders Zambezi River
Zambia
National Conservation Areas Other Conservation areas
Mosi-Oa-Tunya Victoria Falls
Zimbabwe Kazuma Pan
Chobe
Matetsi Deka
Botswana
travelled a rough distance of at least on the map of 220 kms, although probably travelling a much greater distance on the ground.” This lion is the sole remaining member of a coalition of four brothers, whose home territory for the last few years had been just outside Hwange National Park’s Main Camp area. The four were known to researchers as the ‘Dynamite Boys’ after the pan close to where this individual was first fitted with a GPS collar in 2005. At the time still subadults, and not yet mature enough to hold a territory of their own, they spent their time avoiding the dominant males in the area. A few years later they established a territory for
GRAPHIC BY BAYNHAM GOREDEMA
he Hwange Lion Research Project of Oxford University’s Wildlife Conservation Research Unit is one of the largest and longest running wild lion research projects in Africa. The project was started in 1999 by Dr Andrew Loveridge, at the invitation of and in collaboration with the Zimbabwe National Parks & Wildlife Authority, and has studied several generations of lions in the Park.
Hwange
themselves, however, one by one the other members of the coalition were snared and killed, weakening the groups ability to control the territory and eventually leaving ‘Dynamite’ as the sole survivor. He is known to have finally lost his pride tenure to two younger males late last year and was last seen in the area of Sikumi Tree Lodge in December. It’s a familiar fate for older male lions. At an age where he is unlikely to regain a territory or breeding pride, males like this typically become wanderers, frequently coming into conflict with livestock and local communities as a result. Unable to secure suitable territory and access to wild prey they get pushed into communal areas and often become livestock killers.
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This lion is the sole remaining member of a coalition of four brothers, whose home territory for the last few years had been just outside Hwange National Park’s Main Camp area. The problem can become a matter of life and death for the individual lions involved. Often there is no option but to destroy the animals concerned. Previous attempts to relocate problem animals away from conflict areas have met with mixed success, and it is always likely that lions with a history of cattle raiding will re-offend.
Having been eradicated from over 80% of their historic range, lion populations in Africa have declined drastically in the last few decades and there may be as few as 20,000 wild lions remaining. Conservationists are concerned that lion populations are increasingly becoming restricted to isolated National Parks and other protected areas, their geographic range limited by the loss of suitable wild habitat with sufficient prey species to maintain healthy populations. “This fragmentation of population ranges causes potential problems, with isolated populations becoming genetically inbred and prone to extinction in the long term,” said Loveridge. Importantly there are thought to be only six contiguous populations of at least 1,000 adults, the SerengetiMara ecosystem (Kenya and Tanzania); the Selous Game Reserve complex and Ruaha-Rungwa ecosystems (both in Tanzania); the Lower Zambezi-Luangwa complex (Zambia); the Kafue-Kavango-Hwange region (Angola, Botswana, Nambia, Zambia and Zimbabwe) and the Greater Kruger ecosystem (South Africa and Mozambique). “Without wildlife corridors to allow movement between populations their future genetic viability may be at risk. Large, wide ranging carnivores need to be conserved at the landscape level; it is not enough to conserve small isolated populations that are vulnerable to extinction,” said Loveridge. These issues highlight the importance of cross-border
conservation efforts, such as the KAZA trans-frontier park initiative, which aims to unify conservation efforts over large areas of north-western Zimbabwe, north-easternBotswana and south-western Zambia. Finally, the story of our lion raises the issue of how authorities deal with human-wildlife conflict
Without wildlife corridors to allow movement between populations their future genetic viability may be at risk. and problem animals. It’s a shame that the first wild lion to be sighted in the Livingstone area for so many years has ended up being captured. It would have been even sadder if he had been shot as a problem animal. The challenge now for the Zambian Wildlife Authority is to find a suitable wild site, supporting sustainable numbers of wild prey species, and away from any potential livestock conflict, where they can consider releasing this animal.The complication is that any such release should also aim not to disrupt local lion populations, which could result in other lions being displaced and pushed into conflict areas. It is unlikely that he will be repatriated to Zimbabwe, especially as to re-release him back into his old home patch would only bring him into conflict with the two males who displaced him from his territory towards the end of last year and started him on his travels. For now the future of this Zambezi traveller remains in the balance. The author would like to thank Dr Andrew Loveridge, his Hwange Lion Research team and Marleen Post of Sikumi Tree Lodge, for their assistance with this article.
Zambezi News
victoria falls TRAVELLERS FRIEND Âť A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
17
Adventure
How safe is bungee jumping? By Frances Jackson
S
enior management of the Victoria Falls B u n g e e C omp a ny granted Zambezi Traveller an exclusive interview after the widely reported bungee accident. I spent a couple hours at the bridge with Allen Roberts, Director; Garth Fowler, General Manager; Sonja Clay, Marketing Manager; and Hosiah Mudzingwa, Operations Manager. To my dismay, I found I had just missed seeing Bear Grylls take a jump. On 31st December 2011 a client from Australia plunged into the Zambezi River after her bungee cord snapped. She very soon became an international celebrity, while the media had a field day; crocodile infested river, famous location, approaching rapids, video footage of the event and most importantly a survivor who could tell the tale. ZT: First and foremost, how is the client? Allen Roberts: We are in regular contact with her and the good news is that she is recovering well. Her lungs are still sore due to water inhalation, but from all accounts all is going well and she is due to start a new job soon. Her courage and calmness from the minute the cord snapped must be commended, she is a very tough young lady
at regular intervals to ensure that a similar failure cannot happen again. The good news is that the rubber we are now using is very strong and indications are that our new cords have a breaking strain in excess of 2 tones so they are completely safe.
We interview the management of Victoria Falls Bungee two months after the incident where a bungee cord broke and an Australian tourist fell into the Zambezi resulting, fortunately, in relatively minor injuries.
ZT: I know that you have introduced some new safety measures since the incident; can you tell me about those? AR: Well the first thing is the independent testing of the rubber which I have already spoken about. That’s critical and confirms that the rubber is of the required strength and elasticity.
ZT: What impact did this have on your business? AR - We were closed for 22 days whilst investigations were taking place. But this was not an option; this was the first accident since we started operating 17 years ago so we needed to find out why it happened and to do whatever was needed to make sure it does not happen again. In terms of PR, I am sure that there has been a negative impact, but surprisingly enough we had continued requests to jump, even immediately after the event. Since we reopened business has been brisk, you have just missed Bear Grylls taking his jump. We are also grateful for the support that we have had from the Zambian tourism authorities.The Honourable Minister came and jumped from the bridge just a few days after the incident to show solidarity and support for our product that has run safely for so many years, and we are very grateful to him for that.
PHOTO : Victoria Falls BUNJEE
Adventurer, Bear Grylls took the plunge
ZT: All over the world there are many adrenalin activities that have had serious accidents, but the hype around this has been huge, why do you think that is?
taking part in these activities. We brief clients on how to jump safely and what to do in the unlikely event that something does go wrong.
AR: All the activities on this bridge including bungee are among the safest activities that you can do. This incident received attention because there was instant video footage that soon went world-wide and most importantly there was a survivor that could be interviewed. It was a compelling story and thankfully one with a happy ending.
AR: After this incident we are taking things to another level. There are currently no official standards for bungee jumping in either Zimbabwe or Zambia so we have always used the New Zealand Code of Practice which is very thorough. Now we are working on setting even higher standards. Our primary focus is to ensure that this never happens again, so we are taking even more stringent checks and balances on all equipment, and on the participants.
ZT: How are people briefed before they jump? Garth Fowler: We are very clear and highlight the potential risks that are involved with
ZT: The broken cord was sent for forensic testing. What were the results? AR: Obviously our primary concern was to find out what went wrong. We sent the broken cord to a specialized Structural Engineering company in SA which is run by a team of Professors from Wits University. They carried out extensive testing on the cord and found that the rubber was weaker than it should have been. The conclusion is that it is this that caused the failure. This is something we are discussing with our supplier but in the mean time, and to ensure that we can all have complete confidence in the bungee cords, we are now having the rubber independently tested
The second thing is that once the cords are being used, we subject them to a load test after every 20 jumps where we stretch the bungee cord to a predetermined length and measure the force that the cord is applying to the load cell. The load cell reading tells us what condition the cord is in and is an early warning system should there be any undue wear or damage to a cord. Thirdly we have implemented periodic cord inspections where we remove the outer binding of the cord which allows us to see exactly what the condition of the cord is inside. If there is any damage or wear to the cord then we will see it when we do this inspection. Continued on page 20
zambezi victoria falls
18 Travellers Friend HISTORY
Replica Victorian Tram to Operate in Vic Falls The Victoria Falls Tram Company has commissioned a replica Victorian tram to operate a scheduled service in and around the world class tourist destination.
Dust
Their spirit’s calls out, for you to return, and visit them if you will, so you finally came back, to the cradle of man, to answer the ancient pull. By now you know, the fate I warned, has inevitably come to passthat the dust of the ages has filtered in, and found its way to your heart!
A
The tram will operate a daily scheduled service from Victoria Falls Station to the Victoria Falls Bridge and the Rain Forest. It will also offer runs from Palm Grove Siding opposite the Royal Livingstone and the Livingstone Station in Zambia.
LITERATURE
For ever- and a thousand years this place has been our home, and when our ancestors turned to dust, they became its fertile loam. So the dust of the deserts and the dust of the plains is part of our ancient line, and their age-old voice has whispered to us, from before the beginning of time.
By ZT correspondent
vintage-style diesel tram is being made in Johannesburg, on order from the Victoria Falls Tram Company. The tram is modelled on the open-sided Brill trams of circa 1890 with contractors Prof Engineering required to replicate the quality and feel as well as the look of the late 19th Century vehicle.
Zambezi Traveller
The tram is modelled on the open-sided Brill trams of circa 1890
In addition, the tram will offer transfers to the game reserves and properties near the rail line south of Victoria Falls to Jafuta and Sekuti, a unique experience for visitors to the destinations in this area. An onboard bar and refreshment service will cater to passenger needs, with a public address system for commentary and announcements.
The tram will seat 30 passengers on eight comfortable wooden slatted benches, six of which have double seatbacks to allow passengers to face in either direction of travel. The tram will be able to attain a maximum speed of 25 km/h, and the open sides will have roll-down awnings for weather protection.
PHOTO: Victoria Falls Tram Company
Disembarking of elderly and child passengers will be assisted with two low raiser, non-slip fixed steps on either side running the full length of the vehicle. The tram is designed to meet and exceed safety and operating specifications of regional railway systems. Forward, rear and aerial lighting have been added for night tours, and red tail lights for each direction of travel, have been specified. Delivery is scheduled for April 2012 and after completion of handover and operational training, it is anticipated that scheduled runs will start in early May 2012.
From the rattling rides, across the savannahs, in bone-chill break of dayto the height of noon, and the well-earned rest, with us snoozing in the shade. The dust we raised, as we went our way, floated golden in the evening air and as the sun sunk low, the earth below, seemed to catch fire- here and there The dust of the trails and the dust of the tracks, collected in the cloths you wore it drifted in the air- settled in your hair, and it even seeped into your pores. So the ancient motes of the ancient land, now evermore will be embedded in your head, and embedded in your heart, where you think none can see But the ancients know, that your visit home has made you, for the first time, whole and now the land of your fathers, fathers, father is infused in the depths of your soul. So they will sing in your sleep, to the dust in your veins, much sweeter than ever before till you return once again, to the home of our past-the land that gave birth to us all!
Russell Gammon
Russell Gammon Safaris Bespoke Guiding and Keynote Speaking service for visiting conference and incentive, special interest, VIP and series tour groups. Victoria Falls Livingstone Chobe email: info@russellgammon.com www.russellgammon.com
SUNSET BRIDGE RUN: The most spectacular sunset in Africa. Includes gourmet canapés, champagne & drinks.
MOONLIGHT DINNER RUN: An unforgettable dining experience. Includes a 3 course dinner & all drinks. ZAMBEZI LAGER PARTY EXPRESS: A party like no other. WEDDINGS: The most romantic setting in Africa awaits… THE VICTORIA FALLS TRAM: Bridge Runs, transfers to Zambia,
transfers to game reserves & all other Vic Falls activities.
Contact us for reservations, full schedules or more info about the Zambezi Lager Party Express, corporate events or advertising & film opportunities.
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Booking office: +263 13 42912
zambezi victoria falls
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 19
DEVELOPMENT
Awaking the Giant Sleeping on the banks of the Zambezi is magical and can now be done in style at the newest property on the south bank. The Victoria Falls River Lodge in the Zambezi National Park has opened, providing luxur y tented accommodation each with private decks overlooking the river. For years, most serious investment in tourism infrastructure has been on the north bank of the Zambezi in Zambia. The Victoria Falls River Lodge joins other developments in and around the Zimbabwean town of Victoria Falls as evidence of a new optimism and confidence. At the Victoria Falls River Lodge, the main complex has an open plan lounge and
PHOTO: Victoria Falls River LODGE
R
enewed vigor in investment in Victoria Falls town is exciting the tourist industry after long years in the doldrums. Is the sleeping giant about to awake? We report on new developments on the Zimbabwean side of the Zambezi.
Renewed vigor in investment in Victoria Falls town is exciting the tourist industry after long years in the doldrums. Is the sleeping giant about to awake? We report on new developments near this World Heritage Site.
Victoria Falls River Lodge from the air
PHOTOS: VFSL
By ZT correspondent
In the town itself, the everpopular and centrally located Ilala Lodge Hotel has plans for a new wing of 20 rooms – watch this space as details were not available as we went to press.
View from new Wild Horizons Elephant Camp lodges
dining room, bar and pool deck plus a business desk, should it be needed.The Zambezi River here is tranquil and an ideal place to escape the pressures of today’s interconnected world. The lodge is close enough to the town of Victoria Falls to give guests the options of enjoying the wilderness and
PHOTOS: WILD HORIZON
Jono Hudson, VFSL GM, with Steve Kiggen, Induna Club Contractor
also visiting the Falls and taking part in other activities available. Days at the lodge can be spent on game drives, fishing on the river, enjoying a sunset cruise, relaxing by the pool, in the spa or working out in the gym. Meanwhile, Wild Horizons’ Elephant Camp is being extended with the addition of three new suites, increasing
the camp’s capacity to a total of 12 luxury tented suites. The new units will be built to the west of the existing camp and have views of the gorges and the spray of the Falls.The units will feature all the amenities in The Elephant Camp’s existing suites. Construction commenced on 15 January and the additional rooms should come on line from 1 July 2012.
One stop ground handling and activity provider Where three countries meet on the banks of the Zambezi
Victoria Falls | Livingstone | Chobe Tours, transfers and activities
White water rafting | Canoeing | Hirewire | Elephant back safaris | Lion encounters | Helicopter flips.
Accommodation Elephant Camp - Luxury accommodation overlooking the gorge. Imbabala Safari Lodge - Comfortable accommodation, good fishing, great game viewing on the banks of the Zambezi. Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571, 42013, 44426 or 44282 Cell: +263 (0) 712 213 721 or + 263 (0) 772 209 118 Email: info@wilhorizons.co.zw or threeten@wildhorizons.co.za
www.wildhorizons.co.za
At Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, construction is underway on a new and exclusive wing to be named The Induna Club. The 16 rooms and four suites in the new wing represent a US$3 million investment by Africa Albida Tourism Group, scheduled to open in August this year. This will bring the total number of rooms at VFSL to 92 – the thatched Africanstyle lodge opened in 1994 with 72 rooms and has consistently earned awards including being voted by the Association of Zimbabwe Travel Agents as Best Safari Lodge for 16 successive years. “Victoria Falls is a ‘mustsee-in-your-lifetime’ destination,” said Ross Kennedy, Chief Executive of Africa Albida Tourism. “The Induna Club aims to attract the more discerning international traveller seeking an extra dimension of luxury and superior service. This significant investment reflects our supreme confidence that the revitalisation of Victoria Falls and of Zimbabwe as a global tourism jewel is well underway.”
Induna Club rooms will be 50% larger than the current rooms at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and the open design will give a sense of abundant space. The exclusive ‘Club’ ethos will be reflected in such features as butler service, private check-in and check-out and a multi-functional entertainment area that includes a bar, lounge and terrace. Victoria Falls continues to see a steady increase of visitors from around the world and has had renewed success in attracting conferences such as the Africa Travel Association in May this year and the United Nations World Tourism Organisation General Assembly in 2013, to be hosted jointly with Livingstone. The annual JWT Global Travel Trends Report makes bold predictions for 2012: “An increasingly hot tourist spot will be Zimbabwe – home to one of the Seven Wonders of the World, Victoria Falls. The country also has some of Africa’s best game parks; the economy is stabilizing and, as more tour operators resume Zimbabwe tours, travellers are on the uptick. The country has the potential to once again be among the top tourist destinations in Africa,” quotes the report. Visit www.zambezicrescent.com
zambezi victoria falls
20 Travellers Friend
This is the second UNWTO General Assembly to be held in Africa, after Senegal, 2007. Statistically it might take another 400 years for the next conference to be considered for Africa. 2013 is the first time cohosting has been adopted. The 2013 meeting is in a resort; most previous gatherings have taken in the capital cities of hosting countries.
How safe is bungee jumping? Continued from page 17 We also inspect the cord before and after every jump throughout the day and twice a year we are independently audited by an organization that inspects the safety of
ARTS & CRAFTS
What is UNWTO? As the region counts down towards the United Nations World Tourism Organisation’s General Assembly to be co-hosted by Zambia and Zimbabwe in August 2013, we look at who these organisations are.
s the region counts down towards the Un ited Nat ions World Tourism Organisation’s General Assembly to be co-hosted by Zambia and
Zimbabwe in August 2013 in Victoria Falls and Livingstone, it is important to understand the institutions governing world tourism and why this conference is so crucial for the regional growth and development of tourism.
The United Nations is an international organisation made up of 193 of the 196 countries in the world. It was established to promote international peace, cooperation and human rights. UNWTO is affiliated to the United
critical equipment for oil rig workers, crane workers and other professionals working at height – they thoroughly inspect our operation to check our equipment, safety standards and procedures and report accordingly. This has just happened and we have passed with a 100% clean bill of health. We are also working with the Zambian Bureau of Standards to set up a set Code of practice for Bungee Jumping for Zambia.
ZT: Who makes the bungee cords that you use? We make our own bungee cords. We buy the rubber in a raw form, it comes in long extruded belts and each belt consists of forty individual threads lightly joined together. We then make up cords according to certain specifications that match jumper weights. We have detailed safety procedures in place for cord make-up. The staff are very experienced and there are numerous checks and balances.
ZT: How many people have bungee jumped since the accident?
By Rose Mukogo
A
Nations and mirrors its structures. The tourism sector has taken the prefix UN to differentiate the acronym WTO
Sonja Clay: Well over 500, including Bear Grylls! ZT: I have to ask all of you – do you jump? Hosiah Mudzingwa: At least one member of our crew jumps every day. The first jump of the day is done by a member of staff to check that everything is good to go. Garth Fowler: I jump as often as I can, I love it. Z T: Wh at h ave yo u a l l g a i n e d f ro m t h i s experience? AR: The silver lining is that as a result of what happened there has never been a safer time to bungee jump at Vic Falls. The new standards, tests and inspections we have implemented are probably setting a new standard for the activity world wide. It’s great to think that we are pioneering techniques that can make bungee jumping safer for everyone
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
The Victoria Falls
PHOTO : Victoria Falls Bridge Company
FACT FILE
Zambezi Traveller
Minister of Tourism, Honourable Given Lubinda about to Bungee
bungee. Then we have the Bridge Slide or “foofy” slide as some people call it, which is great for the less adventurous and for families. Then we also have a Bridge Tour which is a great experience for families and tourists with an interest in the history of the area. Our Visitor Centre tells all about how the bridge was build in 1905, it’s a fantastic story. Infact for any visitor coming to the area we would say you have to visit the bridge; there really is something for everyone.
ZT: Bungee Jumping isn’t all you do is it?
ZT: Finally, what would you say to anyone thinking of doing a bungee jump at Victoria Falls?
Garth Fowler: That’s right, bungee was our first activity but in recent years we have added a Bridge Swing, which most of our clients tell us is even more exciting than the
Garth Fowler: We would say see you at the bridge, because there has never been a safer or better time to bungee jump off the famous Victoria Falls Bridge.
from that of the trade sector whose organisation is the World Trade Organisation. T h e U N W TO G e n eral Assembly is the forum where the tourism ministers of member countries congregate to discuss policy issues affecting the sector. It is held every alternate year and has a similar set up to the UN General Assembly in New York; however, the tourism sector is unique in holding its general assembly outside New York and away from its own headquarters in Madrid, Spain. UNWTO has six regional commissions; issues relating to tourism in sub-Saharan Africa are discussed under the Commission for Africa with a membership of 48 countries. Zambia and Zimbabwe are also members of the promotional and marketing agency, the Regional Tourism Organisation of Southern Africa, which is a subsidiary of a regional economic grouping of 14 member states, the Southern Africa Development Community. It is important that the private sector in tourism takes a keen interest in these forums which contribute to the creation of an enabling environment for business at regional, continental and international levels. Email rosemukogo@gmail.com
The Rainforest Café From the thunderous cascade that is the Victoria Falls to the tranquility and calm of the Rainforest. Cool down= Recharge= After a hot, long walk, take the weight off your feet. Enjoy our service, tempting dishes, ice cold drinks and the beauty of the Zimbabwean bush
Pleasure in Paradise Victoria Falls Rainforest Gate Open Daily - 8 a.m. to 6 p.m
Large groups can be catered for with breakfast, afternoon or morning teas, lunch and lunar dinners. Late closing over lunar rainbow period. Group rates available Toni-Anne Roberts tel 0776 027 547 or 013 45002 Email – tonianne@microlink.zm
zambezi victoria falls
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 21 LITERATURE
Community
Victoria Falls community outreach
The man who wrote the guide Introducing Paul Murray, author of the the Bradt Guide to Zimbabwe.
By ZT Correspondent
T
he Victoria Falls Hotel is showing the way in the greening efforts of the premier resorts in Zimbabwe. For the past two and half years the hotel has been recycling its kitchen organic waste, off-site using vermiculture (worms), and the eco-compost from this is a ver y important soil nutrient for the hotel’s organic herb gardens on-site. The hotel is extending the programme to a full eco-initiative and all recycling of the hotel’s organic waste will be done at a suitable location at the hotel, a large worm farm will be an important part of a Community Outreach Centre where local trainers will be instructed in the production of high quality eco-compost and the latest conservation farming practices. Managing the programme is Conservation Science Africa (CSA) who have designed community programmes regionally in Zambia, Botswana and Kenya. The team wants to spread conservation
in their purchase of a house in Victoria Falls. Paul’s involvement with the country led to an invitation to write the Bradt Guide to Zimbabwe which was published in 2010, following three years of research.
By ZT correspondent
Day 1 - Victoria Falls eco composting unit
farming practices into the surrounding communities where poor soil and arid conditions make it difficult to grow food. Conser vation farming methods will build the soil profile in homestead gardens and crop plots. Eco-compost reintroduces the vital soil biota that is destroyed when soil is overworked and treated with toxic chemicals and fertiliser. Conservation farming is an important tool in reducing shifting agriculture and reducing deforestation as the
emphasis is on intensive, well managed, high yielding plots rather than extensive hard to manage fields. Importantly, conservation farming methods work equally well in an urban environment. The Eco-Initiative will promote community-based micro-enterprises centred around the production of conservation commodities such as eco-compost, conservationfarmed produce, wildlife, trees and carbon.
PHOTO: Conservation Science
The aim is for these community activities to be twinned with woodland conservation. These measures will not only be designed to avoid further deforestation, but also to restore and rehabilitate degraded habitats. This avoided deforestation approach (REDD+) creates the opportunity for carbon finance to off-set the costs of avoiding shifting agriculture, deforestation and habitat destruction.
P
aul Murray worked for many years in the airline industry, taking every opportunity to travel the world in his spare time. He first visited Zimbabwe in 1986 to cover the Zim Sun Air Rally and quickly fell in love with the country and its people. That love affair saw Paul and his wife Frances visiting Zimbabwe pretty much every year afterwards, culminating
His guiding principle was that if the book was to carry his name as author, he was determined to personally experience or visit every single tourism offering included in the book. He reckons he achieved over 90% of that tough objective. Today, Paul divides his time between V ictor ia Falls, Durban and the UK, and he continues to write frequent online updates to the Bradt guide as well as being involved in a number of other travel and wildlife related journalistic ventures.
MORE ONLINE
www.zambezitraveller.com The Zambezi River is now officially online
zambezi victoria falls
22 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
ARTS & CRAFTS
CHARITY
A Vic Falls Renaissance
The Rotary Club of Victoria Falls update
A
By Anne Taggart, President
Travellers to Victoria Falls will beat a new path to the revamped outlet of handmade and collectors jewellery known as African Renaissance based in the Victoria Falls Hotel. The Rotary Club of Victoria Falls, together with “Children in the Wilderness” have paid school fees for 63 pupils including our first student to By Frances Jackson attend university.
frican Renaissance in the Victoria Falls Hotel has recently undergone a complete facelift. Beautiful works of art and jewellery adorn the shelves making it worth a visit just to gaze.
Colourful crafts inside the African Renaissance
called the African Renaissance Collection. The African Renaissance Collection is exclusive to Victoria Falls Hotel and offers an insight into the old realms of
With the help of Zimbabwe Tourism Services and the Odysseys Travel Group, The Rotary Club of Victoria Falls, continues to help Chinotimba Primary School, with their ‘wish’ list.
PHOTO: GAIL van JAARSVELDT
the kingdoms of Africa. Pieces of history and beauty are displayed together with original Zimbabwean museum artifacts on loan from The Jafuta Heritage Centre.
PHOTO: GAIL van JAARSVELDT
Champion of local art, Gail Van Jaarsveldt, along with creative genius Christie Brookstein and a talented team of resident artists have given this prime shopping location a distinctive look. Shelves are stocked with oneoff collector’s items and an exclusive range of jewellery
Together with the Rotary Club of Beira, Mozambique, we have donated Items to the pre school at Z.R.P. station in Victoria Falls
Another lot of desks and chairs are being organized for Chamabonda school through a matching grant. The first recipient of the Rotary Club of Victoria Falls Scholarship award, is a 4th year Doctor of
Pharmacy student, studying in the U.S.A. The Rotary Club will be holding a “Murder on the Victoria Falls Steam Train” event in the middle of the year. Thanks to Sean Young for offering this opportunity to us to raise funds for the needy. Zambezi Traveller will publish in their website the exact dates of this event when it has been confirmed. Victoria Falls Rotarian’s would like to welcome any interested persons, to attend their Thursday luncheon meetings, which are held between 1 and 2pm at Ilala Lodge.
Education
‘Isikolo Project’ celebrates computer studies
The Original Patrick Mavros 3~Strand Elephant Hair Bangle i n S t e r l i n g S i l v e r, f o r A d v e n t u r e r s
HASLEMERE LANE, UMWINSIDALE, HARARE TEL: 860131 MOB: 0772 414 414 WWW .PATRICKMAVROS.COM HARARE@PATRICKMAVROS. COM
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The children have a feel of their new computers
PHOTOs: BAOBAB PRIMARY SCHOOL
Baobab Primary school celebrated at the beginning of March when their computer studies department officially opened. By ZT Correspondent
Zambezi Traveller reported in 2010 on the amazing Isikolo Project where the Young Presidents Organisation gave the school an amazing face lift. Larry Norton the world renowned wild life artist donated a painting depicting elephants on the
23/02/2012 16:31
school soccer field for fundraising. This painting and subsequent prints raised an incredible $45,000. These funds have been used to build and equip up to date computer room. This amazing facility will hold 40 students at time and will also be used to assist with an adult computer literacy programme in the evening.
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 23
ARTS & CRAFTS
The Ruoko Project at Elephant’s Walk The Ruoko Project at Elephant’s Walk Complex,Victoria Falls, takes up the challenge of actively supporting selected artists instead of simply warehousing their works for sale “It all happened organically,” said Brookstein. “We knew these people, we knew they were struggling and we realized that by collaborating we could do something special. Between us all, we had the creative ability and energy. Sharing ideas an important part of Ruoko Leamington, Christie, Gail, Obert, Moses, Gift.
By Frances Jackson
T
rading in curios and authentic African jewellery for more than 18 years, Gail Van Jaarsveldt has developed a unique eye for talent and creative expression. But the past ten years have been challenging and hard for retail outlets to maintain stock levels and pay for artefacts. Van Jaarsveldt witnessed some of the best Zimbabwean talent leaving home for greener pastures across borders. The biggest wire art company in South Africa is almost totally staffed by Zimbabwean artists, says Christie Brookstein, marketing and public relations manager for Elephant’s Walk complex in Victoria Falls.
Photo: Elephant’s Walk
From hardship a creative solution was born; an empowering initiative called the Ruoko Project is uplifting four artists who were struggling to survive in the current economic climate. “ Talented artists were coming to my door to sell their work and I couldn’t buy it,” said Van Jaarsveldt. “I wanted to find a way that these craftsmen could develop their talents, stay within Zimbabwe and have a viable business. “All of the members of the Ruoko Project have exceptional talent, but they needed materials, space to work, business strategising and sound marketing. We have the resources to do this at Elephant’s Walk.”
“ We were also becoming aware that today’s tourist likes an interactive experience and that they want to see local talent at work. We had the opportunity to make Elephant’s Walk more than a shopping complex, we could make it a destination.” “Since the 90’s we have let a select group from the curio market sell their wares within our garden courtyard for free,” said Van Jaarsveldt. “They have always maintained a high standard of work and conducted business professionally, so the blueprint for something bigger was in place.” Elephant’s Walk and the Ruoko Project provides the artists with free work space in an appropriate environment, business advice, exposure and international marketing.
Artists are provided with the best possible tools for their trade so that they can produce a quality product. Training is provided to enable the artists to work with a multitude of media. Gift Sithole, a wire sculptor, now works with gold and silver wire, semi precious stones and does elaborate cast wax moulds for the Ndau studio. Moses Kalembela the scrimshaw artist has moved on from ostrich eggs and cow horn to collaborating with jewellery artists in creating high-end jewellery pieces. Leamington Muzhingi, a pencil artist who once believed that unless you were a painter, you were not an artist, is now working on a curated collection where his exquisite pencil portraits are uniquely combined with jewellery. Obert Monga, the mosaic artist who once used to create giant pieces for the City of Johannesburg is back home making gorgeous mosaic belt buckles with stones, beads and bone that sell well.
“There is an incredible synergy with this project; many of the items are created by more than one person. We also have other people on the fringe of the Ruoko Project who benefit as they may do the beadwork, braiding or cutting. We consider these to be ‘Friends of Ruoko.’ The Ruoko group are aware of their responsibility to empower others and are always willing to share their skills,” said Van Jaarsveldt. “We want our artists to work in a stress-free environment, to leave their worries at home and come here and create, and then reap the financial benefits of their work.” “As an artist I have been empowered to take my talent to another level. I have been given new materials to work with; I have more opportunity to explore my creativity.” Gift Sithole. “I have been given a home, a place where I am now working to a professional level.
Gail has provided me with beautiful materials and I am surrounded by other artists to learn from. The highlight for me so far was collaborating with Kelly Landry (jewellery designer) and seeing our pieces sell well.” Moses Kalembela. “I love drawing bushmen, and I was a bit like a bushman myself, wandering from place to place, country to country. I did not believe that I was an artist; Gail took me from illustrating tin cups and made me realize that I have a talent. I feel I belong here and know that my work is good.” Leamington Muzhingi. “My mosaics were good for Johannesburg, but Johannesburg was not good for me. I love exploring new ways to work with mosaics, and this project is making me focus on ways to make this work for me. My fellow artists also keep me motivated and on track.” Obert Monga.
A small but dedicated team of leather craftsmen who provide a timeless leather product designed to last the ages. We strive to create unique hand-crafted, durable and elegant, genuine leather products. crocodile, elephant and hippo leather
Elephants Walk Shopping Village, or the African Renaissance shop in the Victoria Falls Hotel
crocoafrique@yoafrica.com
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24 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
DEVELOPMENT
Batoka Power Scheme revisited It was announced in February that Zambia and Zimbabwe have signed a joint Memorandum of Understanding to develop the 1,600 megawatt Batoka Hydro Power Station. By Peter Roberts
I
t is estimated the project could cost in excess of US$4 billion. Advanced feasibility studies will now be commissioned and proposals to secure funding drawn up. The project was initially proposed in 1993, but a major obstacle to the agreement has been the outstanding settlement of debts owed to Zambia
Photo: TOM VARLEY
Batoka Gorge
by Zimbabwe from the division of assets which were jointly owned by the two countries during the period of the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland, when the Kariba Hydro Power Station was built. It was announced in January that Zimbabwe had agreed to pay off more than $70 million in settlement of this issue, paving the way for the February’s agreement.
RECREATION
Photo: Victoria Falls Steam Train Company
Victoria Falls tees off once again
The proposed Batoka site is located approximately 50 km below the Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River. Once completed it would supply 800 MW of power to each of the two countries. It is also believed that the project could enhance generating capacity at Kariba power station, downstream of the Batoka Gorge site, by 300 MW.
Zimbabwe suffers from a power deficit and desperately needs to boost power generating facilities within the country, currently importing a third of its needs from neighbouring countries.
A major upgrade of Victoria Falls’ famous golf course is underway through a partnership between African Sun hotel group and the Victoria Falls Steam Train Company.
The long term goal is to bring the Elephant Hills course to a standard to host the Zimbabwe Golf Open as part of the Sunshine Tour in the next three to four years. This will bring global exposure for the region with international television coverage.
“Livingstone Golf Course and the Botswana, Mowana Golf Course are also in the process of upgrading in preparation for a Three Countries
For this to happen, other large golfing events will take place to demonstrate the ability of the course and supporting infrastructure to host events of this magnitude.
Tour which will create a golfing safari like no other. Golfers will see three different countries and have an African experience including other activities along the way.”
A wider power deficit is expected to grow across the region in the next few years, threatening the longer term availability of power imports to Zimbabwe. The proposed hydroelectric dam and lake would flood large sections of the Batoka Gorge and there are concerns over the environmental impact of the project. There are also concerns within the tourism industry as to how the project will affect activities at Victoria Falls, especially the world renowned white-water rafting .
The first of these is the Victoria Falls Steam Train Golf Classic from 27 – 30 April 2012, which will bring together tourists and corporate attendees from across Southern Africa. “The hope is that in the near future we will have international golfers gracing the greens of Victoria Falls. Perhaps one day a Zimbabwean golfer will win a prestigious championship on the 18th at Elephant Hills,” said the spokesperson.
Wartog strolling around the course
FO
R
Situated on the famous “Tiger Mile” of the upper Zambezi at Msuna, Hwange
LE
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ork has already begun on the Elephant Hills Golf Course, with all tee boxes on the course being rebuilt. Sponsors of each tee box reconstruction will have an advertising board at the site.
The sprinkler system and overall course condition is also undergoing a complete overhaul. “This is positive news for the region, as it may bring back golfing tourism from local, South African and especially overseas markets,” said a spokesperson for the Victoria Falls Steam Train Company.
SA
By ZT correspondent
Built on the Zambezi River front, this luxury lodge boasts of a wide range of facilities to make a holiday for the whole family a truly memorable one!
E S T A T E For enquiries or bookings please contact Charles (+263 773 256 560) or Alexandra (+263 77 2573560) Email: breamland5@yahoo.com Tel: (+263 4 745 302/317)
FALLS
A G E N T S
vicfallsproperties@yoafrica.com www.victoriafallsproperties.com
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 25
Adventure
From our valley to the top of the Andes Victoria Falls resident Sara Norton defeated all odds to summit Mount Cerro Aconcagua, the second most prominent mountain in the world. She was one of only two climbers to finish this attempt from among the group of twenty enthusiasts from all over the world. By Frances Jackson
V
ictoria Falls resident and managing director of The Project Company Sara Norton has defeated all odds and managed to summit Mount Cerro Aconcagua, the second most prominent mountain in the world. Twenty climbing enthusiasts from all over the world made the attempt during this period and all except two were overcome by harsh weather conditions, altitude sickness and the sheer physical struggle of the climb. Being a small, close-knit community, residents of Victoria Falls town are immensely proud of Norton’s achievement.
Entertainment
Falls Fest to move downriver? By Mana Meadows Falls Fest, the New Years Eve musical extravaganza which has been held in Victoria Falls for three years, may move to Kariba this year. Revellers should take this as due warning! After three years gracing the town of Victoria Falls with its annual deluge of enthusiastic year-end party-goers, the popular New Year ‘Falls Fest’ may lose its ‘Falls’ tag and move to Kariba this year.
I chatted briefly with her physiotherapist who was a key player in her preparation for this grueling endeavour - and almost became as emotional as him when he passionately told me of his huge admiration and great pride in Sara. Norton talked of how close she came to her fellow climbers and of how she rarely cries in public, but as she said goodbye to each climber as they turned back, she shed many a heartfelt tear. She was astounded by the beauty of this rugged landscape and how it was all so much more than she imagined. She was the only woman in the group, and hearing of the general nitty, gritty of everyday bodily functions, I was put off climbing any mountain - like I ever would!
FACT FILE
Cerro Aconcagua Elevation: 22,841 ft (6,962 m) Prominence: 22,841 ft (6,962 m), 2nd most prominent mountain in the world Location: Andes, Argentina Coordinates: 32°39’20”S 70°00’57”W First Ascent: Swiss climber Matthias Zurbriggen, solo ascent, 1897
Sarah on the Zambezi River
Aconcagua lies within Aconcagua Provincial Park in the province of Mendoza in the Republic of Argentina. The mountain lies completely within Argentina and, unlike many other Andean peaks, does not sit on the international border with Chile.
Aconcagua is the highest point in the Andes, the world’s longest mountain range. The Andes, beginning in northern South America and ending at the continent’s southern tip, stretch over 4,300 miles (7,000 km) in a narrow band along the west edge of
South America. The Andes pass through seven countries - Columbia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile.
that Everest Base Camp was the proverbial walk in the park by comparison.
Norton home with hugs and “Wow, you’re amazing” greetings, Norton paused to think. Maybe her crazy desire to do these things serves to inspire little girls to dream big.
This is not the first of Norton’s climbing achievements; last year she successfully climbed to Everest Base Camp. Listening to her recounting her Aconcagua experience, it is evident
When Madeleine (Norton’s ten year old daughter) and her boisterous group of girl friends enthusiastically welcomed
Sarah on the top of the world
The first known ascent of Aconcagua was during an expedition led by Edward FitzGerald in the summer of 1897. Swiss climber
Mathias Zurbriggen reached the summit alone on January 14 via today’s Normal Route. A few days later Nicholas Lanti and Stuart Vines made the second ascent. These were the highest ascents in the world at that time.
I suspect it also inspires us bigger girls to dream big too! Well done, Sara. MORE ONLINE Read Sara’s own record of her incredible journey in the Victoria Falls section www.zambezitraveller.com
Event organiser Sarah Brown says the reason for the possible move is the organisers’ concern that people will not travel to Victoria Falls for a fourth year in a row. “Kariba is closer for a lot of people. It’s cheaper, people can camp and stay on houseboats and since there is already a tradition of people heading to Kariba every New Year, everything is already in place,” said Brown. “For Harare people it will mean a four hour drive rather than a ten hour drive. Also, it will provide much needed business for Kariba.” Brown cautioned that nothing has yet been confirmed and that the move is still in the planning stages. “There are still lots of logistical obstacles before we can make a final decision,” she said. Vic Falls residents have graciously shared their town with revellers for the four day period over the last three years; the tourism returns of
the project management co. Co-ordinators of design and construction projects for homes, lodges and hotels. External and interior designs conceptualized. Renovations undertaken. P.O. Box CT534, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Sara Norton +263772606233 or +2631344074 Email – snorton@yoafrica.com
www.primeart-gallery.com
Snake, DOMINIC BENHURA
Partying into 2012
fully-booked accommodations and increased adventure sports bookings may have compensated for the loss of peace and quiet! Sponsored by Ilala Lodge, the event has gone from strength to strength with 2011 seeing around 3500 people attending the party on 30 December and just over 4000 people attending the main event on the 31st.
Photo: FALLS FEST
A jam-packed music lineup of local and South African performers included Evicted, Ryan Koriya, Clint and Co, CrashCarBurn, The First Descent, Ghapi and the popular electro pop duo Locnville.
Our Gallery is situated at the Elephant’s Walk Shopping Village. We also have a display of some of the artwork at the Victoria Falls Airport’s departure lounge, and at the Historical Chogm Park in Victoria Falls where some of our larger works have been featured.
Whether it’s upstream or downstream on the Zambezi for 2012 – we look forward to the next one!
273 Adam Stander Drive, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Tel +263-772 239 805 Fax +263-13-42783 Email- director@primeart-gallery.com Email- primeart@mweb.co.zw
Victoria ictoria Falls, alls, Zimbabwe imbabwe Contact us for your wildlife experience... Tel/fax: 013 45821 Cell: 0712 209 144 Email: cat@yoafrica.com
Game Drives Bird Watching safaris Walking Safaris Special interest Safaris & more...
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26 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
Advertise in the Victoria Falls Classifieds Mel Hudson hudsons@yoafrica.com +263 775 297519 Accommodation
Activities
CADAC Gas Equipment
Charity Events
Hardware Stores
Restaurants
Attention Overlanders, 4x4 Safari Hire, Budget Groups. Vic Falls Holiday Home Rental. Sleeps 16 twin beds. Superb tranquil gardens, pool & braai area, secure parking. 10 minute walk to CBD. Darryl + 263 712610222, ecolynx@zol.co.zw, www.vicfallsguide.com
Sealent Safaris - Specialises in Accomodation, Tours, Chobe Trips, Kariba Ferries, Mana Pools. Office No 16, Sopers Arcade. Tel : 013 40237, 0772 279083. Email : cynthia63us@yahoo.com.
CADAC gas equipment – Wide range, competitively priced. Our products include, skottel braai $100.00 , 3kg cylinder $57.99 , 5kg cylinder $63.00 , standard regulator $13.50 , Eazilite 100CP $40.00 , Eazilite 300CP $57.50 , 2-plate stove $73.00 , 500g gas cartridge threaded $8.00 , Grillo gas braai $75.00 , mantle 100CP $2.70 , mantle 300CP $3.20 , cooker top $19.00 , glass 100CP $7.90 , glass 300CP $9.50 , Adventure Eazi Kit $41.00.See our modern, well stocked wholesale warehouse opposite Marange Motors.Tradepower Wholesale Vic Falls - Telephone (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312
conjunction with the Zimbabwe Republic Police to ensure a safe environment for visitors and local residents within the Victoria Falls tourism area. Anyone wishing to assist in sponsoring one or more of the dedicated Tourism Police Officers please contact Kevin Fry +263 (0) 772 872646
Hardware Zone, Victoria Falls for all your electrical, plumbing, painting and building requirements. Phone +263 (0) 13 42202, cell +263 (0)773 255 788, 426 Pioneer Road, Industrial Area
The Victoria Falls Hotel : Stanley’s Terrace,
Cultural Activities
Elephant Camp. The Elephant Camp is a
Attention HARARE Visitors. Self catering 4X4 Cottage, Cromlet Entrprise. 15kms from Harare. Miombo woodlands amidst hills & rivers, ideal birding, trekking, biking, exploring. Darryl + 263 712610222, ecolynx@zol.co.zw, www.vicfallsguide.com
Self catering Goose Cottage Higlands, Sleeps 4. Darryl + 263 712610222, ecolynx@zol.co.zw, www.vicfallsguide.com
Attention
HARARE
Visitors.
Attention FISHHOEK CAPETOWN Visitors.
Whales, Sharks, Penguins, Beachlife. Self catering townhouse. Sleeps 4, long term and short term rentals. Darryl + 263 712610222, ecolynx@zol. co.zw, www.vicfallsguide.com
Activities Shearwater Victoria Falls. Experience the Big 5 on Shearwater’s private game reserve, just 12km from Victoria Falls town and enjoy seeing Africa’s rare black rhino. Contact Shearwater Central Reservations P.O. Box 125, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Tel:+263 (0) 13 44471-3, 42058, 40056-8 Fax:+263 (0) 13 44341 Cell:+263 (0) 712 406 668, +263(0)773461716reservations@shearwatervf.com
Catering Services The Larry Norton Gallery. Original and repro-
duced fine art wildlife and landscape images available from this renowned artist. Visit this superb gallery in the historical Victoria Falls Hotel. You will find us in the Stables Lounge. Phone: +263 (0) 772 606 233 and +263 (0) 13 40076. Email: info@larrynorton.co.za and website: www.larrynorton.co.za
Delicious Indian Cuisine. Seventh Heaven Foods (Pvt) Ltd. 523 Reynard Rd, Victoria Falls. Take-aways, catering for functions. Specialises in snacks and Indian dinners. Call Anju and Barry Nathoo on +263 (0) 13 40527/42348. Cell: +263 (0) 712 212 255/+263 (0) 775 121 406. Email: khemhim@yoafrica.com
B&B
Cellphones
Lorries B&B, Victoria Falls. Full English
Cell Phones - brand new, guaranteed for one year: Nokia, Samsung and Motorolla. Genuine handsets at the officially appointed distributor for Victoria Falls at distributor prices. Contact Tradepower, Victoria Falls. Tel: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712587123/0774022312 Email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Breakfast. Ensuite Rooms. Home cooked dinners. Your home away from home. Phone: +263 (0) 13 42139 or +263 (0) 712 406 584. Email: lorrie@mweb.co.zw. 10% discount on production of this advertisement.
Mosi-Ua-Tunya B&B, six en-suite rooms, air
conditioned, and additional family accommodation available. Located 603 Mahogany Road. Reservations call: +263 (0) 13 44336, email moslodge@ yoafrica.com, cell +263 (0)772 462 837. Tokkie Lodge, your home from home
whilst travelling. Contact +263 (0) 43306 or Manache +263 (0) 0712 207396. Email: reservations@tokkielodge.co.zw The Villa Victora. Self catering guest house. Five
en suite rooms, home away from home environment. Phone + 263 13 44386, Cell + 263 712 700261, email : villaviczim@gmail.com for further information.
Cigars Ritmeester and Blackstone cigars – Trade-
power Wholesale Victoria Falls are the distributors for these superior cigars. Telephone us on (013) 44870 / 0774 022 312 We do not sell individual packets of cigars, we only supply shrink wraps to the trade.
Convenience Store
Beauty therapy the vastness of the Victoria Falls and its surrounds the best way! Take a helicopter flip and enjoy the magnificent splendour of the Zambezi River and its Falls. Contact The Zambezi Helicopter Company, Box 125, Zimbabwe. Tel +263 (0) 13 43569, cell: +263 (0) 773 080 909, +263 (0) 712 324 422. Tel/fax: +263 13 40059. Email: zhc.reservations@highestec.co.zw. Skype: zambezihelicopters Web site: www.zambezihelicopters.com
Tyress Beauty & Health & Hair Salon.
Manicures Pedicures Artificial Nails Facials Make-up Massages Waxing Tweezing Body Scrub Braiding. For all your relaxation & body treatments. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Tel : 013 45039, Cell: +263 772 607 940, email: leomarowa@gmail.com. We also do all Hair Treatments, No 5 Pumula Centre.
Bakeries and Hotels - Tradepower Wholesale
Victoria Falls are the Vic Falls distributors for Bakels Zimbabwe. For bulk cocoa powder, icing sugar, cake mix, almond paste, pettinice, cooking chocolate, sesame seeds, baking powder, greaseproof paper, glace cherries, tincol, bread premix, rollex or masterpuff please phone Neil Norman on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 to request our speciality bakery representative to call upon you to provide advice and suggestions on new products.
Charity Events Once a month a number of Victoria Falls resi-
dents put together ‘goodie parcels’ with a few luxuries, mostly necessities for elderly people in the community that are struggling to make ends meet. Anyone wishing to contribute to this can email Cathrina Gover: gover@yoafrica. com and Mel Hudson: hudsons@yoafrica.com Rotary Club of Victoria Falls meets every Thurs-
day at Ilala Lodge between 1:00pm and 2:00pm. For further information please contact our club president Anne Taggart on +263 (0)772 254552 or Josh Ncube on +263 (0)772 105515 or, our club secretary Babara on +263 (0)773 228084.
Victoria Falls Tourism Police Unit. A donar
funded iniative between private and public sector in
Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge. Located in the Matetsi Safari Area with 14km of Zambezi river frontage Imbabala is reknowned for it’s game viewing and bird watching Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571,44426. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw. www.wildhorizons.co.za
Call Tsitsi on +263 (0) 776 144 080, Flatter on +263 (0) 712 926 678. Email : muposiwa_tsitsi@yahoo.com
Fishing & Fisherman Fishermen flystreamers for sale, rods repaired.
Call Tim +263 (0) 712 208 374
Food Agencies Victoria Foods – Tradepower Wholesale Victoria
Falls is the official distributor for Victoria Foods in the Falls and surrounding area. For quality flour, rice, mealie meal, snacks, salt and sugar beans, please visit our modern warehouse located on Mile Road, opposite Marange Motors. Tel: (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Forklift Forklift to take a weight off your shoulders. Trade-
power Wholesale Victoria Falls has a 3 tonne forklift for hire at an hourly rate. Please phone Neil on (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312. Please visit our modern wholesale warehouse, where service to you will be a privilege.
The Victoria Falls Hotel. ***** Situated on a world heritage site, the legendary Victoria Falls Hotel overlooks the magnificent falls. This gracious 1904 hotel is set in lush tropical gardens that recall the romance of days gone by. Contact Sales and Marketing Manager. Email: marketing@tvfh.africansun. co.zw. Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44751/9
Ice Service Ice always available at Tradepower Whole-
sale Victoria Falls - 7kg bag for $2-20. Tel: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312. Please visit our modern wholesale warehouse, where service to you will be a pleasure.
Laundry Service Spotless Laundry Services at Victoria Falls Rest-
camp, Lodge 17. Open daily. Contact +262 (0) 40509-11 or +263 (0)772 347687
Locksmith Victoria Falls Locksmiths - Providers of 24hr
key cutting and lock-out services. Tel : Levi on 013 44526, Cell 0778 132 220 or 0712 764 486 Email : locksmithsvf@gmail.com
Logistics & Supply Transport and Supply of 30 tonne loads from
Fresh fruit and Vegetable stocked daily 283 Holland Road, Industrial Area +263 13 42237/44008/9 +263 772399779 +263773462343
Hairdressing Salon Victoria Falls Hair Salon - We do all types of hair-
do’s, manicures and pedicures. 307 Parkway Drive. Tel + 263 13 40981, Cell + 263 712 716 930
Hardware Stores Builders’ Hardware. For all your building mate-
rial visit Builders’ Hardware, Old PG/Johnson & Fletcher building, Orders done to your specification. Contact Thandi 0772 347687/ Itai 0712 597465
AIR
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offering a range of tours and activities including rafting, canoeing, elephant back safaris and high wire activities. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw
Traditional authentic lunches and dinners in the heart of the Victoria Falls community.
Fresh Produce Falls. Open 7 days a week Monday to Saturday 7am to 11pm and Sundays from 7am till 9pm. We will cater for all your food needs during your stay in Vic Falls. Situated in the centre of town opposite the Rest Camp, Shop 6 Parkway Drive, Victoria Falls. Contact us on (013) 43429.
Bakery Requisites
Wild Horizons is a “one-stop’ activity provider
TRADITIONAL LUNCHES
luxury and intimate lodge under canvas only 10 minutes from Victoria Falls and all it’s attractions and activities, yet secluded in it’s own private game reserve so as to allow close up encounters with wildlife. Email: info@wildhorizons.co.zw
The one and only convenience store in Victoia
The Zambezi Helicopter Company. View
Hotels & Safari Lodges
fresher for longer
Johannesburg, Harare, Bulawayo to Victoria Falls, Kasane, Livingstone and Lusaka. Bricks, cement, quarry stone, thatching grass and timber. Contact: +263 772 144996 or +263 9 232376
Packaged Snacks Montagu Mixed Nuts & Fruits – Our range of
superb nuts, dried fruits and snack mixes are always fresh and available at Tradepower Victoria Falls. 100g and 200g packs. Display stands and in-store advertising available for retail stockists. Call us on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 for our representative to visit you.
Trekkers Biltong – Outstanding quality chilli or
plain flavoured beef snapsticks in 35g, 75g and 150g and distributed by Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls. Please contact Neil Norman on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 for us to visit your establishment with advice and details of wholesale pricing including stands and in-store advertising which are available to boost your sales.
Paint
lar show. For bookings, contact +263 (0) 44751/9, email : marketing@tvfh.africansun.co.zw.
Restcamps
Victoria Falls Restcamp. Situated in the town centre offers affordable, safe accommodation. Includes self catering lodges, chalets, dormitories, semi luxury tents and camping. Along with a tours & internet desk & In-da-Belly Restaurant. Tel: + 263 13 40509 - 11. Email: reservations@restcamp.co.zw
Screen Printing Screenworks - For all your screen printing require-
ments, T/shirts, Banners, Posters etc. Call Zenzo + 263 775 728342 / + 263 712 614244. Email screenworksvicfalls@yahoo.com. 16 Sopers Arcade,Victoria Falls.
Specialist Guide Attention Agents. VIC FALLS BIRDING &
SPECIAL INTEREST TOURLEADER/GUIDE, full & half day trips available, with extended overnight options. Darryl + 263 712610222, ecolynx@zol.co.zw, www.vicfallsguide.com
Discover Safaris Charles Brightman P O Box CT 544 Victoria Falls Zimbabwe, Tel/Fax + 263 13 45821, Cell + 263 712 209144 or + 263 917 747 426, Skype : charlesbrightman, Specialising in walking safaris, game drives, bird watching trips and tailor made safaris. Finalist in the Safari Awards Category. Best Personal Contibution to Wildlife Conservation, www.safariawards.com/winners11
Specialist Tour Operator Zambezi Safari & Travel Co. Registered in the UK and ATOL protected, have a Professional Guide and Safari consultant based Victoria Falls, we cover Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. We have 28 years of on hand experience on the ground here. Contact Chris Worden, professional guide/ director. www.zambezi.com. www.bushcamps. com. www.luangwa.net. Email: chris@zambezi. com. Tel: 44 (0) 1548 830059 (UK head office) +263 (0) 13 44427 (Victoria Falls office). Cell: +263 (0) 774 109581. Skype: zambezi_chris. ATOL protected: licence number 10135. Winner Z.A.A Tourism Award 2011
Swimming Pool Chemicals & Products Tradepower Victoria Falls have a wide range of
hoses, leaf scoops and brushes. We are the agents for Blu52 chemicals and Eezi Pool acid, test kits, chlorine floaters and chlorine. Contact Neil Norman: (013) 44870/44871 or 0712587123/0774022312
Thatching Grass Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek
ably low prices. Imported and always in our stock. We also have painting accessories, brushes, rollers, sand paper etc. Tradepower Wholesale (013) 44870/1 or 0774 022 312 / 0712 587 123. email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell: +263 (0) 777 560 856 or landline +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: derekdianawilk@ mango.zw or contact local agent, John Dewdney +263 (0) 13 44645 or +263 (0)775901534 website: http..//thatchinggrasssuppliers.webs,com
Pharmacies
Upholstery
Victoria Falls Pharmacy shop No.3
FALLS PROFESSIONAL PROPERTY SALES & RENTALS. Darryl + 263 712610222, ecolynx@zol.co.zw, www.vicfallsguide.com
Refridgeration
Cooling Horizon - Provides Cooling and Refrigeration and Air Conditioning. Contact Becky 0773 537428 / 0772 341048 / 0712 593586. Email : coolinghorizon@yahoo.com
Repairs and Workshops Amherst Engineering T/A Zambezi Motors
- for vehicle repairs and maintenance, situated behind Avis/Total. Burce: +263 712 336 017, Roy: +263 712 747 306, Shayle: +263 772 284 689.
VICTORIA FALLS
EN C ID Y
Phumula Centre, close to Chicken Inn complex. Tel +263 (0) 13 44403, after hours cell: +263 (0) 712 4051269/+263 (0) 712 405 270.
Attention Property Buyers & Sellers. VIC
AVAILABLE AT ALL LEADING SUPERMARKETS
The Victoria Falls Hotel: Jungle Junction, international buffet and African Spectacu-
Super quality PVA and Gloss at unbeliev-
Property
Limpopo Dairy Depot, Industrial Sites, Victoria Falls, opposite Marange Motors Tel: (013) 44870 / 1 Fax: (013) 44871, Mobile: 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 - Mr Neil Norman Email: orders@limpopodairy.co.zw / vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
The Victoria Falls Hotel: Livingstone Room,
fine dining with a 7 course menu.
W
Artists & Art Galleries
cosmopolitan lunch
VICTORIA FALLS
For all your canvas and tarpaulin prod-
ucts, game drive vehicle seat and canopies, boat blinds.Office and household furniture contact on 0773000888/9
Wholesale Liquor Sales Tradepower Victoria Falls are the agents and distributors for a wide range of liquor brands. Swaartland Wines are our speciality, including all famous liquor labels. Also a full range of canned soft drinks and mixers always available at genuine wholesale prices. Contact Neil on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312.
Wholesale Poultry Chicken – Zimbabwean bred FAIRHILL chickens are outstanding in quality and value. Whole birds, breasts, thighs, drumsticks, wings or in mixed portions. Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls. Contact Neil on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312. Our modern freezing facilities ensure absolute freshness always.
zambezi victoria falls
Zambezi Traveller ANTI-POACHING
Poacher killed in rhino war
In mid February 2012 a poacher was shot and killed after a gun battle with scouts in Hwange National Park.
Travellers Friend 27 CHARITY
Victoria Falls Steam Train fund raiser for VFAPU 30 March 2012 - US$40.00 Duration: Leave approx 17h00 from Vic Falls station, arrive back about 23h00 Journey – go to bridge, then on to Jafuta Siding where there will be a bonfire and entertainment DJ Francis will be entertaining guests on the train Canapes and snacks to be served throughout the journey Cash bar at reasonable prices. Booking : Tel: 263 13 429 12 or reservations@steamtraincompany.com
ANTI-POACHING
Proud VFAPU scouts By ZT Correspondent
T
he poachers had dehorned a black rhino and left the bull to bleed to death in a ditch. National Parks called for the support of Zambezi Helicopter Company, who sent a helicopter to assist with the pursuit. A poacher was shot and killed in a gun battle with scouts in Hwange National Park in mid Febr uar y. The poachers had dehorned a black rhino and left the bull to bleed to death in a ditch.
National Parks personnel called for the support of Zambezi Helicopter Company, which sent a helicopter to Hwange to assist in a hot pursuit, but the rest of the gang escaped. A ‘shoot to kill’ policy has been adopted by several African countries but does not seem to deter poaching. In South Africa in 2011, 443 rhino have been poached.This is a rate of one rhino killed every 20 hours. Fuelled by insatiable Asian demand, rhino horn is worth
A ‘shoot to kill’ policy has been adopted by several African countries but does not seem to deter poaching. more than its weight in gold, valued at around $50,000 per kg. This is a war which threatens the black rhino with extinction. Meanwhile, a rhino breeding programme supported
by Shearwater Adventures and property owners Rani Resorts is a rare success story in the Zambezi area, with the only remaining black rhino in the proximity of Victoria Falls. This flagship conservation project is situated on the Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve and is now home to six black rhino, three of which were born on the estate. In an example of how tourism can contribute to the future of endangered wildlife, part of the proceeds of receipts from game drives to see these rare beasts goes to their protection and preservation.
PHOTO: Charles Brightman
PHOTO: SAVE VALLEY CONSERVANCY
Bull rhino left to die
The sixteen man unit serves to combat the various forms of poaching that occurs in the bush surrounding Victoria Falls. Patrolling seven days a week, the scouts are actively involved in searching for deadly wire snares that have been set by bush meat poachers as well as deterring wood, fish and mineral poaching in the National Park. VFAPU works in close co-operation with the National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority and the Zimbabwe Republic Police, to achieve many successes. The unit was set up by Charles Brightman, and the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge in 1999.
WHOLESALE AT VICTORIA FALLS
Industrial Sites, Victoria Falls, opposite Marange Motors
Tel: (013) 44870 / 1 Fax: (013) 44871 Mobile: 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 - Mr Neil Norman Email: vicfalls@tradepower.co.zw
Bulawayo
28
on your way to the Zambezi
HISTORY
Mystery and magic in Matobo Archaeologist, historian and guide Paul Hubbard tells of his love for the ancient and spectacular hills of Matobo, filled with relics from prehistory to modern times. By Paul Hubbard
T
he Matobo Hi l ls World Heritage Site is acknowledged by UNESCO as having the greatest density of ancient painted sites anywhere in the world, and more archaeological work has been done on these sites than anything else in the area. More than 3,000 are known and more are recorded every year. At times, when out on a survey, it feels as though almost every place you look has a wonderful little painting - or even better a large panel filled with scores of images. Often, these paintings are so brilliantly preserved, the colours seemingly as fresh and
PHOTO: PAUL HUBBARD
Nanke formling
bright as the day they were painted as to make you doubt their great antiquity. Most paintings in the area are thought to have been done in the Late Stone Age, (dating from 13,000 to 1,500 years
ago) as a part of the religion and spiritual practices of the nomadic hunter-gatherers who created them. Most images are probably at least 2,000 years old, created using pigments made from various mineral oxides.
The art is metaphorical and symbolic to a degree which is hard to appreciate today. One particular painting from Inanke Cave should be a World Heritage Site in its own right, because of the magnificent quality of its images. These closely packed, multi-coloured ovals create an image called a ‘formling,’ an important and highly complex group of images associated with termites, termite nests and spiritual potency. The ovals mimic the egg chambers in the heart of the nest and careful inspection of the lower portion of the painting shows paintings of flying ants entering one end and exiting the other, confirming the hypothesis. The lovely giraffes painted over and around this image are likely metaphors for healing and healing rituals.
Ever a place of refuge and conflict, the Matobo Hills have witnessed trials and tribulations of human endeavour over the millennia. Shattered fragments of their dreams and achievements are found everywhere in the hills – from pottery shards to overgrown battlefields. All give mute testimony to how these people lived, loved and died in this timeless environment. Paradoxically, it is a
place of serenity, beauty and peace. Each group that lived within the hills has left their mark. The painted caves later became important shrines for the traditional worship of God, calling believers from across the region. Today, walking around these hills becomes something like a pilgrimage. Almost every event of historical significance in Matabeleland can be traced back to the Matobo.
Zimbabwe born Paul Hubbard is a professional archaeologist with expertise in rock art studies as well as the pre-colonial period in southern Africa. Formerly a university lecturer, he now works as an independent archaeological consultant and tour guide. He can usually be found wandering in the Matobo Hills where he guides guests out of Camp Amalinda, some of whom have travelled far to meet him personally.
CULTURE
The song of the carnivores
RESERVATIONS Tel: +263 9 64868 / 9, Fax: +263 9 246436 resman@amalindacollection.co.zw | marketing@amalindacollection.co.zw
The cheetah
www.campamalinda.com
By ZT correspondent
L
Ivory Lodge PLACE
OF ELEPHANTS
www.ivorysafarilodge.com
www.bulawayoclub.com
Taking you to your destination...
transfer service
ink ing conser vation and the creative worlds of music and writing, The Song of the Carnivores programme started with a poetry competition and continues into 2012 with a lecture series and the first public performance of a specially commissioned piece of music at the Bulawayo Music Festival. Poetry and song will come together in a celebration of the majesty and beauty of Africa’s five large carnivores in ‘The Song of the Carnivores,’ an innovative programme to raise awareness and appreciation of the cheetah, leopard, lion, wild dog and spotted hyaena. Uniquely linking the worlds of conservation and the arts, the collaborative venture is supported by the Cheetah and Wild Dog Regional Programme, the British Council Zimbabwe, Alliance Française
PHOTO: HUMPHREY GUMPO
de Bulawayo, the Zimbabwe Academy of Music, ’amaBooks Publishers, the Howard G. Buffet Foundation and the Zoological Society of London. The first stage of the project was a poetry competition, with both school children and adults invited to write about the five carnivores. This part of the project will culminate in the winning entries being put to music by the celebrated British composer, Richard Sissons. The composition will premiere at the biennial Bulawayo Music Festival during May 2012. Parallel with the creative programme is a series of five talks to be given in Bulawayo to dispel myths about each of the carnivores and to encourage action to ensure their continued survival. www.cheetahandwilddog.org Visit www.afzim.org/bulawayo
Lecture Series Programme Cheetah – On the myth that cheetahs are genetically doomed and need to be captive bred to be saved. See full story on page 37. Lion – On the myth that trophy hunting is bad for lion conservation (16 February). Wild Dog – On the myth that they are cruel hunters that decimate wild prey populations (22 March).
Leopard – On the myth that there are plenty of leopards, that they are simply a problem animal and that we can continue hunting them indefinitely with no problem (19 April). Spotted Hyaena – On the myth that they are simply lowly scavengers that impact on lions (17 May).
Lusaka
29
on your way to the Zambezi
RECREATION
Challenging bikers amid scenic splendour The Kasanka Challenge calls mountain bike enthusiasts to a race through a scenic national park in Zambia.
By ZT Correspondent
T
he second Kasanka Challenge mountain bike race takes place this year in the beautiful environs of Kasanka Nat ion a l Pa rk . T h i s race traverses Miombo wo o d l a nd , w e t l a nd s , rivers and villages where waving crowds cheer on the competitors. The event takes advantage of the increased popularity of mountain biking to build awareness of the conservation needs of the park and of neighbouring communities. All proceeds are ploughed back into conservation through
The main event was won by Ryan Ellis in a blistering time of just over two hours which completely blew away the competition and landed him a weekend at Robin Pope Safaris in South Luangwa.
the Kasanka Trust Ltd which manages the park. Kasanka is the first and longest running private partnership park in Zambia. The park is famed for the largest mammal migration in the world - with over 8 million fruit bats roosting during the last three months of the year. It is also home to numerous large mammals including the elusive sitatunga and more than 460 bird species. The inaugural Challenge took place in May 2011 and attracted a field of 22 riders who competed in two categories of 56 km and 22 km. A short kiddie’s ride was also catered for.
A local Njinga race of 12 km is also part of the cyclethemed weekend, to give local cyclists the opportunity to show off their cycling prowess. Last year this race was won by Greward Chalwe who took home a new Zambike as first prize.
TOURISM
Tips on booking your safari Helpful suggestions for anyone planning a safari. By Daphne Lindsay
T
o my mind a small exclusive safari is one of the best holidays in the world. But what might be to my liking might not appeal to someone else. Over the years I have met all different types on safari; those like me who are addicted and can’t get enough, to those who fancied the idea but what they are experiencing is not really what they wanted. I have been called in the middle of the night by a hysterical client who was having a fit because there were elephant outside her chalet and she was convinced every wild animal would eat her. She was definitely better suited to a package holiday staying in hotels with air-conditioning,
TV and game viewing from closed vehicles. Some tips on how to book your safari:Book through a reputable and knowledgeable tour operator or travel agent, or if you know where you want to go, book direct. Don’t be scared to ask questions. Give as much information about your preferences as possible. There’s nothing worse than being sent somewhere that doesn’t suit you.
PHOTO: JOYCE BENADIE
Race winner, Ryan Ellis enjoying the Kasanka Challenge
Let them know if it is your first safari or where else you have travelled. W hat type of accomm o d a t i on d o yo u l i k e – air-conditioned comfort or a tented camp? Do you feel safer in bigger hotels or lodges? Do you want budget or luxury accommodation? Are you relaxed about wild animals walking freely around the camp? Are visas required?
How long do you want your safari for?
Whether access is by air or road.
How much luggage is allowed?
Advise your interests – are you keen on birding or photography?
What is game viewing like at the time of year you will be travelling?
What will the weather be like? If it is during the rainy season does it rain all day?
Advise any special dietary requirements.
How do transfers work and the time taken.
Do you have any physical challenges, for example needing a wheelchair or having difficulty with steps.
If flying do you need to pay airport departure taxes?
Location, location, location!
Is your passport valid for travel? What vaccinations do you need?
KASANKA 26 May 2012 56km Challenge 22km Chase 3km Children’s Race
The distance to game areas or other attractions. Does the property have internet or TV?
What do the temperatures get up to?
MTB CHALLENGE
What are you likely to see.
been running her own safari tour operating business for the past 20 years. Due to her love of the African Bush she has travelled Africa extensively. She now lives in Zambia with her husband Ian where Daphne a runs her own Tour Operating business Zamag Tours & Safaris. Not only do they tailormake personalised safaris throughout Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana but they specialise in Agricultural Tours. Daphne’s passion is horse safaris and annually guides a groups to different destination each year.
+260 977 618 194 info@zamagsafaris.com
Is it a malaria area? Seek professional advice on malaria prophylaxis.
Where the property is situated, for example inside or outside the park.
Daphne Lindsay was born and brought up on a farm in Zimbabwe. Has
www.zamagsafaris.com
Kasanka is easily accessible on tar road from Lusaka, and offers accommodation in chalets as well as camping.
Opening Hours Mon - Fri 12:00 - 22:00 Sunday 12:00 - 17:00 26 Chaholi Rd Rhodes Park Lusaka, Zambia
Accommodation and meals available at Kasanka National Park. A fun weekend for the entire family.
Tel: 0026 0211 253639 0026 0977 856040 E-mail: gerritz@iconnect.zm www.gerritz-restaurant.com
we take you places we know and trust
2 KEA 201 N G A N E S L AL CH KMA TB
For more info: www.kasanka.com or wasa@kasanka.com
30
Luangwa on your way to the Zambezi
CONSERVATION
CONSERVATION
Dealing with snaring The Chichele pride
‘SLCS wildlife rescue team immobilizes and treats a snared giraffe with the help of Flatdogs Camp, Mfuwe’
By Rachel McRobb
S
outh Luangwa Conservation Society has an active programme to lift snares and treat wildlife injured by snares in its prime big game country. Illegal snaring for bush meat is widespread in Zambia and represents a major threat to important target and nontarget species such as giraffe, elephant, lion and the African wild dog. Snares are easy
to set and conceal and wire is readily available. With the human population in Africa predicted to double by 2050 (UN-ESA 2008), sustainable protein resources will be increasingly strained, escalating the harvest of the illegal bush meat trade. Where meat poaching occurs, wire snaring is likely to be the most popular method. However, due to their non-selective nature, snares inflict severe injuries on wildlife, normally resulting in a long, painful death.
In order to combat snaring in the South Luangwa, the South Luangwa Conservation Society supports village scouts who conduct regular anti-snaring patrols.The Society also responds to reports of snared animals and will immobilize and treat any casualties. From 2006 - 2011 SLCS has detected over 50 elephants and 15 lions with wire snares. Every pack of wild dogs recorded also had an individual with a snare, while numerous giraffe, hyaena and antelope have also been reported injured. Luckily all these animals were identified, immobilized and treated and the vast majority made a full recovery. Visit www.slcszambia.org; Email: rachel@slcszambia.org
By ZT Correspondent
T
he Chichele Presidentia l Lodge in Sout h Luang wa National Park is one of the many safari lodges whose guides assist the Zambia Lion Project with details of their lion sightings and photographs. The lodge was originally built in 1972 as a private presidential retreat for Kenneth Kaunda. We look at the recent history of the Chichele lion pride, with information built up over years of daily observation. In 2000 the Chichele pride consisted of fourteen lions which ruled the land surrounding Chichele Hill and the Presidential Lodge. However in 2004 thirteen of the lions migrated to the western area of the South Luangwa National Park, leaving behind only one female. As it happened this female was pregnant at the time and she gave birth to two females and one male cub, which she successfully reared to form the new Chichele pride.
In 2007 the alpha female became pregnant again and gave birth to two more cubs, one female and one male. Sadly, the female cub did not survive.
In 2010 the young male, coming into maturity, decided it was time to leave his maternal pride and successfully challenged an older male from a neighbouring pride. This displaced male in turn found refuge with the Chichele pride. He has now become the alpha male, but reaching almost 12 years old is considered ‘Madala’ (Nyanja for ‘old man’). Only time will tell how long he can hold sway over the land surrounding Chichele Hill.
Tragedy struck again in 2009 when the pride was hunting a herd of buffalo. During the hunt the alpha female was attacked by one of the buffalo and suffered a broken back. Hunting large prey has its dangers and a determined attack from an adult buffalo, or backward kick from a zebra, can be fatal, as in this case.
Visit www.santuaryretreats.com
RESEARCH
High-tech tracks Luangwa lions By ZT Correspondent
S
ince 2003, Dr Paula White has been studying wild carnivores in Zambia. What began as an investigation of secretive, nocturnal genets in North Luangwa, quickly grew into a country-wide project on what may be the most iconic of all species, the African lion.
Luxury, naturally
Dr. Paula White, Zambia Lion Project using high tech Biopsy darting methods.
Dr White’s Zambia Lion Project operates primarily outside of the parks, seeking the more elusive (and lessstudied) lions that reside in the surrounding game management areas. Biopsy darts are one of the high-tech approaches that White has been using, allowing her to sample individual lions without the need to drug or handle them. The high-quality DNA contained within the tiny snip allows White to learn more about the valley’s lion populations, including elusive individuals seldom seen by the public.
Lodges and safari camps, immersed in their natural landscapes
Extraordinary safari camps and lodges Zambia: Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge, Sanctuary Puku Ridge Camp, Sanctuary Zebra Plains, Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma
www.sanctuaryretreats.com / southernafrica@sanctuaryretreats.com
PHOTO: Chichele
Chichele lions
Photo: Zambia Lion Project
Photo : SCLS
Elephants are particularly susceptible to snaring as they are often attracted to farming areas around protected areas such as the Game Management Areas which surround the parks. While lions and wild dogs are not target species, their tendency to frequent areas with high prey density, where snaring is likely to be more prevalent, also makes them extremely susceptible.
0211 253 719
DNA analyses are being used to estimate the number of lions in the Luangwa Valley ecosystem, measure their genetic biodiversity to assess the level of inbreeding, examine the distance and direction of dispersing individuals, as well as conduct paternity tests of adult males.
“To study cats that are rarely seen, you need to get creative,” says White who, in addition to DNA work, uses playback equipment such as the bawling buffalo calf to detect the presence of lions as well as to attract them for sampling. Spoor counts and interviews with professional hunters and photographic guides provide seasonal account data, which over the course of multiple years can be used to establish population trends. Most recently, White has been using GPS radio-collars (equipped with automatic drop-off mechanisms) as a comparative method to document lion movements, range and habitat use. White cites the crucial role that safari-hunting operators play in protecting the game management areas which serve as buffer zones around national parks, and much of her work is dedicated to developing and promoting sustainable hunting. Towards this end, White is working closely with Zambia Wildlife Authority and the hunting fraternity to develop mandatory sampling, and the adoption of an age-based trophy selection program similar to that in Tanzania. paw@carnivoreconservation.com
Zambezi News
livingstone TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
31
PLANT ENCOUNTERS
Dogbane drugs 2
1 Frangipani 2 Madagascar periwinkle 3 Poison-rope fruits 4 Kombe seeds on vine 5 Reduced carbon Kombe seeds in hand
3
4
the heart rate, yet increase the force and efficiency of its contractions. During heart surgery, strophanthin can be administered to stop the heart temporarily. 5 1
By Evelyn Roe
T
he pink or white flowers of the Madagascar periwink le (Pic2) brighten up many gardens, but few people appreciate what a gift this species is to the world of medicine. Medical researchers became interested in the plant during World War Two, when Canadian soldiers stationed in the Philippines used the leaves
as a substitute for insulin. The discovery in Jamaica of a “periwinkle tea” with antidiabetic properties led to further Canadian and American research in the 1950s and the development of drug treatments for cancer. Extracts of the whole plant have yielded more than 70 different alkaloids of medicinal use. Two of them, vincristine and vinblastine, have raised the survival rate in childhood leukaemia from less than 10% to over 90%. Remission of other forms of cancer, such as
Hodgkin’s lymphoma, has also been achieved after chemotherapy with the naturally-occurring alkaloids. Traditional herbalists use extracts of Madagascar periwinkle to treat high blood pressure, diabetes, bacillary dysentery, rheumatic pains, and abnormally heavy and painful menstruation. Its scientific name is Catharanthus roseus, formerly Vinca rosea. It belongs to the dogbane family, the Apocynaceae, a Greek word that
means “away from dogs”. This refers to the use of some species as dog poison. The family also incorporates the milkweeds, which were previously classified as the Asclepiadaceae, named after Asclepius, the Greek god of healing. Here are two examples of indigenous medicinal plants in the dogbane family, from the Livingstone area: Poison-rope, Tacazzea apiculata, (Pic3) is a common vine in woodland fringing
the Zambezi. It has milky sap, opposite leaves, and velvety fruits in paired, slender follicles. Traditional herbalists make many uses of this plant, including treating “fits”. Pharmacological research has discovered that extracts do control convulsions and epilepsy. Kombe tail-flower, Strophanthus kombe, can be found overhanging the path by the Victoria Falls in Zambia’s Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Its tiny seeds are used to make drugs for heart conditions. They contain compounds that slow down
The seeds (Pic 4) are dispersed in a mass of fluff from paired, pod-like fruits (Pic5) that split open when dry, but for pharmaceutical production they are harvested while still in the fruit. It’s not advisable to ingest any material (or to inhale smoke from burning wood or leaves) from the dogbane family, unless administered by a qualified medical practitioner. This caution includes ornamentals such as frangipani (Plumeria species) (Pic1) and oleander (Nerium oleander). Evelyn Roe; Botanical Researcher with North-West Naturalists’ Society of Zambia; roe.evelyn@gmail.com
INDULGENT WITHOUT RESTR AINT. E XPLORE ZAMBEZI’S WONDER. www.suninternational.com
zambezi livingstone
32 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
CONSERVATION
Lion captured near Livingstone By Peter Roberts
R
esidents of the wider Livingstone area were on alert in January when a wild lion was reported in the area, the first for over thirty years. It was initially feared that the animal had escaped from one of the two captive lion tourist interaction operations which operate locally, who were quick to confirm that none of their
animals were missing and to offer assistance to local wildlife officials. Zambia Wildlife Authority area warden Rodgers Nkhoma confirmed that the authority started tracking the lion immediately after it was first reported in the area on 22 January, and that the animal had killed three cattle in Songwe village area. He added that there was provision in the law for compensating the owners of the cattle for their losses.
In an area with virtually zero natural prey species to support lions, the Zambia Wildlife Authority, with the support of wildlife vet Dr Ian Parsons, and help from staff of the two local captive lion operations, decided to capture the lion to prevent any further loss of livestock. Often the last resort with lions which become livestock raiders is to shoot them as problem animals. The capture was successfully undertaken on 26 January, when the lion was darted and drugged and transported to a secure captive facility near Dambwa. Questions over his origins took a surprising turn when it was discovered
Left to right are; Cliff Welch (Mukuni Big 5); Dr, Ian Parsons; Ian Ngwenya (MB5); ZAWA Scout Zimba; Richard Leach (Lion Encounter & ALERT).
that hidden underneath his dark shaggy mane was a GPS research collar. For more on this amazing lion and his travels see our cover story and special
conser vation feature on front cover and page 16 on the work of Hwange’s lion researchers. MORE ONLINE View more images of the lion’s journey in the Livingstone section of www.zambezitraveller.com
PHOTO: MUKUNI BIG 5
The first wild lion to be recorded in the Livingstone area had his own story to tell – in scientific detail
ENVIRONMENT
Climate ambassadors clean up By Clare Mateke
U
nite for Climate, a programme coordinated by UNICEF, came to Livingstone, Zambia, this year with twenty child climate ambassadors from local schools who lead a tree-planting and litter collection effort, facilitated by the Wildlife and Environmental Conservation Society of Zambia. Twenty child c limate ambassadors from schools in Livingstone helped clean up litter around the Victoria Falls in January. This was part of an ongoing project funded by UNICEF, in which children are being trained as climate ambassadors to carry out projects to improve the environment and help mitigate climate change.
The programme is called Unite for Climate and is being facilitated in Zambia on behalf of UNICEF by the Wildlife and Environmental Conservation Society of Zambia. This year’s event was combined with a visit to Livingstone by a UNICEF team from Ireland, including crew members from Aer Lingus, Ireland’s national airline, who have been helping raise funds for UNICEF. The day ’s programme began with a courtesy call on the Mayor of Livingstone, after which the Mayor and the Permanent Secretary for Southern Province led the climate ambassadors, the visiting Irish team, members
Students from the community schools drumming
of the Wildlife and Environmental Conservation Society of Zambia, and representatives from related organisations, in a tree planting ceremony at Livingstone Hospital. A total of 15 trees were planted near the children’s wing of the hospital. The party then proceeded to the Victoria Falls, where they split into three groups. One group collected litter from Victoria Falls bridge to the Zambian border post, another group went down the
PHOTO: CLARE MATEKE
path to the Boiling Pot, while the third group took the photographic trail which leads round towards the bridge and gives an overview of the Falls. Lots of litter was collected and much fun was had by all. The ambassadors hope to make this a regular event to try and keep Livingstone and the Victoria Falls clean. They also hope to carry out tree planting programmes, school debates, and environmental awareness campaigns on radio and television.
zambezi livingstone
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 33
BIRDING
Counting the Zambezi River’s water birds Birds dependent on wetland habitats can provide a good indicator of the health of the environment as well as having their own intrinsic importance. This report covers the first of the biannual water bird counts in the 17th year that the survey has been taken in the Livingstone area. By Clare Mateke Livingstone Museum
E
very January and July for the past 17 years the Livingstone Museum has counted the water birds along the Zambezi River. A team of researchers and volunteers walks along the river bank from the Victoria Falls to the end of Mosi-o-Tunya National Park, identifying and counting every water bird in sight. A second count is made at the Livingstone sewage ponds; the whole process takes four days. Birds included in the count are those that are dependent on wetlands for their survival.
The purpose of the count is to keep track of the status of bird life in the area, as well as providing an assessment of the state of the wetlands, as the number and diversity of bird species gives an indication of the changing state of the wetland. This is only one part of a continent-wide census of water birds, carried out by volunteers across Africa. Last year ten wetland areas in Zambia were included resulting in a total count of over 28,000 water birds. This was the widest coverage of the country in the past decade. This year the Museum and Zambia Wildlife Authority
of the bulrushes but venturing more and more out into the open. In addition, the sewage ponds yielded a number of waders including wood sandpiper, ruff, common sandpiper and three-banded plover.
Clare Mateke, Terry Nyambe, Joreck Chishika, Kawana Munalula, Sydney Munakabayo, Todd Johnson
staff were joined by volunteers who love to spend a day in the bush counting birds; it is always more fun with more people. A total of 748 birds were counted, from 40 different species. This was well over the average number – perhaps because we had more than the usual number of good bird spotters? Abundant species included reed cormorant, cattle egret, openbill stork, sacred ibis and African jacana. Interesting sightings were two painted
snipe recorded at the sewage ponds for the first time in seven years, a slaty egret, only recorded three times before and a black-crowned night heron, previously recorded only twice. We deliberately sought out the hard-to-see rock pratincole out on the rocks in the Zambezi River – and found them.These birds head north as soon as the river starts to rise and covers the rocks that they like to sit on; we were lucky to find them still around.
Photo: Avi Sabag
A record number of 27 longtoed lapwings were seen at the sewage ponds – the highest number so far recorded. This species was first recorded in 2008 at this location and appears to have been increasing in number ever since, along with the water hyacinth plant that seems to make up an important part of its habitat. Purple gallinules are also multiplying, enjoying the cover
Af
can View T
The sewage ponds provide an ever-changing and diverse habitat for birds and we once counted over 1,000 birds there. Unfortunately, illegal settlements have been mushrooming around its borders posing an ever-greater threat to the bird life. There has been a proposal to turn the ponds into a mini bird sanctuary and placing a full time bird guide there, who, apart from guiding tourists and other keen birders, could teach the children who live nearby, to enjoy the beauty and diversity of birds, gradually discouraging the use of catapults. Ideas are welcome!
rs and Safa
s
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34 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
ART & CRAFT
Rhythms of changing times Changing Times” is the theme for my April exhibition. It is important for every person who is conscious of our environment to sometimes pause and consider how fairly we treat other forms of life. Human existence depends on what we do to anything living. We don’t need more unanswered questions about disappearing wildlife and forests.
What happened to the miombo pied barbet which two years back was easily seen just beyond the Livingstone town’s northern weigh bridge? One solution to this problem would be the passing and implementation of a bylaw restricting unnecessary cutting of trees on newly allocated plots. Building plans must fit in with the environment and not vice versa.
Chiinga Siavwapa
Rhythms of Changing Times 3 “He stands impotent on the threshold between life and death, beckoning her to bareness as they together step on toes of dancing trees.”
By Chiinga Siavwapa
I
As a nature guide for walking safaris, I see nature as art and art in nature. Nature is my inspiration mentally, physically and spiritually. To me,
CHARITY
Artists exhibit for a worthy cause
Contact : chingalog@yahoo.com
Events March, April, May
Art Exhibition 09hrs -16.30hrs L/Stone Museum
Clare Mateke e-mail: c. mateke@gmail.com 31st March
there lies a thin line between our environment and art. Unfortunately in most cases, nature is mismanaged by humans through political systems. Political influences are in themselves not bad if intentions and implementations are for a better future for all. Hence “Rhythms of PHDS 24490/11
have always thought art has a far more important role to play in contemporary times than just the general perception of it as decorative or entertaining. My painting styles and subjects therefore change not necessarily in
the use of media but based on issues currently affecting us. Recently my comments and expressions have been on environment and political developments.
In his own words, painter and wilderness guide Chiinga Siavwapa explains his current exhibition in Livingstone,
The basic fact and principal of respect for life seems to be ignored as deforestation, poaching, greed selfishness, corruption and crime, escalate. I try to address and point to these issues. My works, mostly characterized by human faces and figures, may be viewed and read like a newspaper and displayed as historical fact.
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Touch Rugby Exhibited paintings at the exhibition
By ZT correspondent A diverse exhibition of visual artworks in Livingstone aims to raise funds for needy children of deceased artists. The Livingstone Museum, in collaboration with the Zambia National Visual Arts Council, is hosting an exhibition of paintings and prints with works carefully selected from Visual Arts Council members in Kafue, Mazabuka, Monze, Choma and Livingstone districts. The council is a non-governmental, nonprofit organisation formed in October 1989 with the aim of fostering the development of visual art in Zambia and uplifting the standard of living of its members. Proceeds from the sale of art will raise funds for orphans of deceased visual artists. Following much discussion of the predicament of these children,
PHOTO: CLARE MATEKE
the exhibition was initiated within the context of museum outreach to the community. This comes after the ‘Art Live On’ exhibition in Lusaka, sponsored by the Lechwe Trust, with proceeds given to families of departed visual artists. A wide cross section of artists, male and female, young and old, have work on show producing a uniquely diverse exhibition. Works include samples from the studios of Poto Kabwe and Chansa Chishimba both of whom have been exhibiting since 1979. Clare Mateke is known for her keen interest in wild animals and landscapes, while Alumedi Maonde, Suse Kasokota and Chiinga Siavwapa are eclectic modern artists who have distinguished themselves with individual techniques. The Livingstone exhibition is accommodated in the museum courtyard and runs from January to March.
17.30hrs , L/Stone Golf Club J.T. Cell + 260 (0) 974269646 Fridays
Cake Sale 11.00hrs - 13.00hrs Acacia School,
Sonja + 260 (0) 977126526 Tuesdays & Thursdays
Yoga classes Tuesdays & Thursdays 8.30 9.30 hrs , Livingstone Golf Club. Bev + 260 (0) 979959981 Fridays
Rotary Club of L/Stone meet 13.00hrs - 14.00hrs, Livingstone Golf Club.
Sue + 260 (0) 965888810 8th April
Easter Sunday Buffet Lunch 13.00hrs - 15.00hr, Protea Hotel
Phone + 260 213324630 Late March/early April
Kuomboka Ceremony Western Province Zambia National Tourist Board
ZNTB + 260 (0) 9778977770 May
Master Chef Braai Family Fun Acacia School
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zambezi livingstone
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 35
Community
Sun International impresses UNDP representative ing about the success stories that are being told by Sun International Zambia and the beneficiaries from its community initiatives. Fee was impressed by the scope of these projects and the impact the company is making on the lives of the community.
By ZT correspondent
S
un Internationa l Zambia conducted its first harvest of compost from their in-house worm farm and used this important phase in their project to train 18 members of their community in vermiculture. This activity marks yet another important phase in the work of the worm farm. The worm farm uses earthworms to process and manage organic kitchen waste by feeding on it to produce organic fertilizer that comes in liquid and solid (compost) forms, good for the hotel and community gardens that
Community training
Sun International Zambia supports. The Programme Analyst Governance, Ms Bairbre Fee, from the United Nations Development Programme
PHOTO: SUN INTERNATIONAL
(UNDP) was recently at the Resort where she undertook a tour of Sun International Zambia’s community projects that are situated on- site. More and more guests are showing an interest in learn-
Community
Facing the challenge of deafness
O
At five years old Ricky Mapetapeta was stricken with malaria and became deaf as a result. As he grew up, the greatest challenge he faced was getting people to communicate with him and to understand what he was saying. The public generally do not know sign language and with no specialised schools in Livingstone to teach the language of the deaf, Mapetapeta found employment opportunities were limited.
MORE ONLINE
Ceremony launches fish restocking A total of 50, 000 three spot and red breasted tilapia fingerlings have been released into the river around Mwandi under the first fish restocking programme.
Livingstone receives donated books Educational institutions around Livingstone will benefit from a donation of some 22,000 books and ten desktop computers. The books are surplus resource materials from institutions in the United States.
By Dianah Genada
ne success stor y from Livingstone of an individual challenged by deafness, Ricky Mapetapeta, who nevertheless today makes a living for his family, through his own hard work, perseverance and some good fortune.
Fee was in Livingstone to undertake a study of the developments taking place in the region and to meet with various stakeholders.
Ricky and his family
W i t h d e t e r m i n a t i on , Mapetapeta overcame his disability. He was blessed with friends who were willing to share their practical skills and he gained hands-on training in carpentry. Today, Mapetapeta is able to make a living for his family selling furniture to anybody ready with an order. One day he hopes to own a small furniture shop to improve the lives of his family. The Deaf Baptist Church which meets at Holy Cross Basic School every Sunday has recognised the challenges faced by the deaf members of Livingstone community. Taking Mapetapeta as an
Photo: Dianah Genada
example of how individuals can meet these challenges, in coordination with the Livingstone Fundamental Baptist Church Leaders of the deaf community have developed plans to build a school in Dambwa Central to teach deaf students and create skills for job opportunities. Currently, Livingstone Fundamental Baptist Church helps the deaf by organizing social events such as conferences, luncheons and other activities to develop self esteem and let the deaf know that they have a part in society and a place where they belong.
Myths & Legends
The myth of the African thief ant
By Todd Johnson, Curator of Entomology, Department of Natural History, Livingstone Museum.
The African thief ant has been cleared of the allegations of theft, by the Curator of Entomology in the Department of Natural History, at Livingstone Museum. During the rainy season we expect to see all sorts of insects from grasshoppers, crickets and beetles to ants. Ants are undoubtedly the most successful and ecologically dominant group of social insects in the world. They make up 15–20% of the animal biomass (dry weight) in tropical rainforests. Most of us have surely seen flying ants which are not termites during the rainy season. From my perspective, the African thief ant queens
(Carebara vidua) are the most amazing of the flying ants. They are black to reddish brown in colour with swollen abdomens. These queens are commonly called ‘fulufute’ or ‘matingatila’ in Nyanja and Tonga respectively. The queen is eaten as a delicacy by many people living along the Zambezi River, especially in the middle and lower Zambezi valleys. In the past, scientists have given conflicting reports on the establishment of a new nest by virgin queens leaving the parent colony. According to one veteran expert, the virgin queen when leaving the mother colony steals some of the workers, who are actually her sisters, to help her with rearing of her first brood of eggs and larvae. The author in this case thought the young queen needed the workers because she would be unable to feed her young with her large mouth parts. Another ant taxonomist found the African thief ant nesting in termite mounds and believed that the tiny workers construct channels through which they creep into the termite chambers to steal termite eggs and their young for food. This ant got its name from one of these fairy tales
zambezi livingstone
36 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
ENVIRONMENT
Problem – paper waste. Solution – read on! Advantages The coffins are fully biodegradable. Every three coffins produced saves one tree. The community can clean up the streets by selling their waste paper. Reduced carbon dioxide emission by burning less paper. Making final touches to the coffins
By Ferdie Barnard
I
ntroducing an environmentally friendly coffin made from compressed paper waste which will both help clean up cities and cost less than a conventional wood coffin – and save a few trees. This is a must-read story for anyone concerned about pollution and people.
PHOTO: ABC COFFINS
Two years ago Livingstone City Council asked me to build a trailer for their tractor to collect and compress paper waste that was generated within the city. It was to be pulled from point to point where waste would be collected, compressed and then delivered to the city dump where it would be burned. I realised they were asking me to manufacture a trailer
with a hydraulic press which would be costly. This got me thinking. Recycling paper is a great idea but the cost of transporting it is high. Not only that, the town of Livingstone produces about one tonne of paper trash daily. When it is burnt all that paper goes up in the form of a pollutant, carbon dioxide gas.
So the question was how to rid the city of this paper waste cleanly and also put it to some commercial use that would justify the cost of collecting and compressing it.
Coffins! There is a great need for inexpensive coffins in Africa. Would there be a way to make coffins out of this paper waste? After many protypes and design changes, I came up with the process which would solve the problem. It is a papier-mache type product that can be moulded into the form of a coffin that is strong enough to support the necessary weight. It is strong, biodegradable, lightweight and cost effective - and it is exclusively manufactured using waste paper trash that is thrown away every day. With mould improvements and better machinery, we now have a state-of-the-art
production process that can be replicated and sold to cities throughout Africa. The coffins are painted inside with a biodegradable latex that gives a water
Bury them with DIGNITY!
Environmentaly Friendly! Contact FERDI +260213322996 - office +260979311538 - cell ferdot@zamnet.zm
Advertise in the Livingstone Classifieds Frances Jackson fjackson@iwayafrica.com Accommodation
Chanters Lodge: Stay at Chanters Lodge in Living-
stone, great food, wonderful garden with pool, comfortable reasonably priced rooms in Lukulu Crescent, off Obote Avenue Phone: + 260 213 323412 Email : richardchanter@gmail.com http://www.chanters-livingstone.com twitter/@livilodge
Accommodation
Accommodation
Chapa Classic Lodge & Tours With air-condi-
Livingstone Backpackers : Budget accommodation in dormitory- style chalets or camping. Facilities include sandy poolside bar, Jacuzzi, braai area & selfcatering kitchen. Next to The Red Cross, Mokambo Road, Livingstone. Phone : + 260 213 324730 Email: ahorizon@zamnet.zm
tioned en-suite accommodation, fridges, coffee making facilities, swimming pool, restaurant, activity bookings, airport transfers. Located close to town centre. Phone : + 260 (0)977796710, + 260 213 322065 E-mail : chapaclassiclodge@zamnet.zm www.chapaclassiclodge.com Fawlty Towers: Private en-suite rooms & dormitory accommodation set in a large garden with swimming pool, braai area. Sauna & beauty salon. Free Airport pick-ups. Opposite Shoprite, Mosi-oa-Tunya Square.
Accommodation
Green Tree Lodge : Air-conditioned en-suite
chalets. Resident bar, restaurant, DSTV, wireless internet, swimming pool, secure parking. Contact Andrew & Victoria. Phone: + 260 213 322631 Mobile: + 260 (0)977630159 E-mail:greentreelodge@livingstonezambia.com www.greentreelodgezambia.com
Ngolide Lodge Well equipped air-conditioned
rooms. Two night packages. Continental/Indian Restaurant operating as The Golden Leaf Restaurant. Mosi-oa –Tunya Road Lodge :+ 260 213 321091/2 Restaurant : + 260 213 321266 E-mail :ngolidelodge@gmail.com www.ngolidelodge.com
Pumulani Livingstone: Affordable, charming town lodge offering spacious air-conditioned en-site rooms, Activities desk, bar & grill, WiFi, transfers, secure parking, laundrey services Phone : + 260 213 320981 Mobile: + 260 (0)97182027 Email: info@pumulanizambia.com www.pumulanizambia.com
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Victoria Apartments - Livingstone
Modern self-catering units with 2 en-suite bedrooms, fully equipped kitchens, DSTV, Wifi, secure parking and garden. US116 per suite per night – conditions apply. Next to Protea Hotel, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road Phone Mark + 260 (0) 973313644 vareservations@gmail.com
Activities
+263 (0) 712 208 370 Auto Repair
Bennett Engineering. Professional engine
assembling, vehicle maintenance and servicing. Skimming of cyclinder heads. Reborring/ skimming engine blocks. Press fit conrods. Test/set/fit injector nozzles. Fitting of cam bushes. Vehicle diagnostic. Import spares from South Africa Mosi-os-Tunya Road, opposite Falls Park Contact : + 260 213 321611 Mobile : +260 (0) 978308936
Designing & Printing Fallstech: We specialize in artwork and painting of T-Shirts, letter heads, business cards, invoice books. Designing and mounting billboards. Opposite Mukuni Park. Phone: + 260 (0) 976403088 Email: fallstech@yahoo.com
Florist Shoppers Florist: Cut flowers, corsages/bridal bouquets/wedding decorations, vase arrangements, ornamental gifts, table arrangements, wreaths. Call : + 260 213 324086 Mobile: + 260 (0)977498733 John Hunt Way behind Autoworld
Bike-Hire : Zambike Amaka Sana x with Shimano Torque @ US15 per person per day Phone + 260 (0) 977545754
Books & Stationery
WALK WITH THE RHINO on a 3 hour ‘walking
Bookworld Livingstone Selling a good selection of children’s, professional, reference & educational books.All at affordable prices. Stationery items also available Contact us : + 260 213 32141
Engen: Falls Park towards Victoria Falls. 24 hr fuel,
Butchery
Logistics & Supply
safari’in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Inclusive pick-up and drop-off, park fees, professional guide, game scout , light breakfast, halfway snacks, cold water/soft drinks. ‘ TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE ‘LIVINGSTONE SAFARIS. Tel : + 260 213 322267 Cell : + 260 (0) 977450716 gecko@zamnet.zm
Airline & Bus Tickets Southend Travel: IATA Member Livingstone. Airline reservations and ticketing on domestic, regional & international flights. Free quotation Ticketing and reservations for Intercape Bus for routes to Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho Border, Mozambique. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone town centre Phone : +260 213 320241/320773/322128 Skype : southend.travel southend@zamnet.zm
Daily Routes Livingstone Sesheke
Fallsmeat Ltd: Top quality meat, biltong and boerwors and many other products Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone Town Centre Phone + 260 (0) 979497181
Fuel Station convenient store. Phone:+260 213 322584 E-mail : ambleside@zamnet.zm
Transport and Supply of 30 tonne loads from
Johannesburg, Harare, Bulawayo to Victoria Falls, Kasane, Livingstone and Lusaka. Bricks, cement, quarrystone, thatch grass, timber. Contact: +263 772 144996 or +263 9 232376
Charity
Restaurants
Every Friday the Rotary Club of Livingstone meet at
Laughing Dragon Chinese Restaurant: Superb Sichuan Cuisine, take-aways & restaurant Self-contained local accommodation. John Hunt Way behind Post Office. Phone : + 260 213 322555
the Royal Livingstone Golf & Country Club. 13.00hrs – 14.00hrs Contact Sue + 260 (0)965888810
Daily Departure Times Lusaka
Livingstone
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tight seal to prevent contamination of underground water. The end product is one third the price of pressed wood and thus more affordable for lowbudget families to bury their loved ones with dignity.
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Zambezi News
kariba & middle-zam TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River
37
WILDLIFE
Cheetah do well outside parks The first in a series of lectures on the large carnivores, Dr Netty Purchase spoke on the fact that the future of cheetah lies outside of captive breeding centres and also outside of protected areas – on land where prey exists and the people are tolerant By ZT correspondent
T
he inaugural lecture in The Song of the Carnivores series was given by Dr Netty Purchase in Bulawayo in January. Dr Purchase’s talk was titled ‘The Cheetahs; are they really genetically doomed?’ Although closely related to the lion, the tiger, the leopard and the jaguar, the cheetah is a unique species in a unique genus. A flexible spine, long tail that acts as a rudder, large heart and long legs all work together to allow the cheetah to reach high speeds; 104 kms per hour has been recorded. Once it catches up with its prey, generally antelope, the prey is tripped and then held and suffocated. Although these high speeds can only be maintained for short periods, the cheetah is a remarkably successful hunter. Because of its body structure the cheetah is not powerful enough to protect its prey or its young in areas with lion and hyaena, and losses can be high. Consequently the cheetah does well in areas
with few lion and hyaena, but these areas tend to be where humans live, who can provide another threat. Until recently it was argued that the cheetah was genetically doomed – that it had gone through a genetic bottleneck a millennium ago, resulting in low genetic diversity. This led to the belief that only captive breeding, carefully selecting individuals for maximum diversity, would safeguard the species. More recent evidence proves that the cheetah is no less diverse than most large carnivores. Being at the top of the food chain, cheetah exist in low numbers and hence have relatively low genetic diversity. However, recent studies have indicated that there are at least four separate groups of cheetah – the Asian, North African, East African and Southern African. These groups are distinct enough to mean that movement of animals between these areas could be detrimental. Cheetahs also breed very well and have high cub survival where there are no competitors, something that would not happen if they were inbred.
Cheetah cubs Inset- Cheetah at sunset
It is a sad fact that cheetah are prized in some parts of the world as pets, and animals from captive centres are highly sought after. The more cheetahs in captivity and the more breeding centres, the more difficult it is to police this trade in live animals, and because of the lucrative nature of the trade, illegal trading has grown. The conservation world is working to change this. The value of captive centres is in giving people the opportunity to see and appreciate this
Being at the top of the food chain, cheetah exist in low numbers and hence have relatively low genetic diversity PHOTOS: HUMPHREY GUMPO
beautiful animal. The need, as always, is for cooperation and compliance to what is known to be effective. The message that Dr Purchase wanted her audience to take home was that by look-
ing after the cheetah in the wild it will survive well into the future. By securing land through increased tolerance by human communities to the presence of cheetah, and safeguarding its natural prey, the cheetah can continue to run
wild for generations to come. Overcoming the threats of habitat destruction, human conflict and a lack of political will is necessary if this amazing species is to survive. Visit www.cheetahandwilddog.org
MANA POOLS KARIBA MATOPOS HWANGE
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
38 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
education
Rifa trains the rangers of the future Rifa conservation education camp on the banks of the Zambezi runs a conservation education programme for schoolchildren of Parks staff, with support from Safari Club International. By Leslee Maasdorp
S
choolchildren from Zi mbabwe’s Pa rk s and Wildlife Authority schools benefitted from conser vat ion educat ion camps at Rifa in the Zambezi Valley last year, sponsored by the Sacramento and Houston Chapters of Safari Club International.
Well over 100 schoolchildren and 24 adult teacher / supervisors attended the camps in the perishing heat of October and November. “We are all grateful for the support given by SCI over the years. This has enabled the Rifa programme to start
re-building children and teachers’ appreciation for wildlife and conservation,” said a spokesperson. Rifa education camp is run by the Zimbabwe Hunters’ Association. Both ZHA and National Parks and Wildlife consider these three weeks devoted to local pupils to be invaluable. “Through education and action an actual difference can be made to the well-being of the environment in protected areas, and to the current poaching crisis,” said the spokesperson. Meanwhile, the Rifa ecosystem has seen massive changes and many positive spin-offs from the flooding one year ago.
PHOTO: RIFA
Kids playing games on the new beach
Four floodgates were opened that season in the Kariba dam wall, causing havoc to the banks of the river downstream. At Rifa camp near Chirundu the water pump in the Zambezi snapped from its wires. While it drifted downstream
those on a boat sent to look for it luckily spotted it drifting by and fished it out of the water. Huge benefits were derived from the flooding of the extensive dried-out channel systems connected to the Zambezi. Soon grasses were sprouting,
PROFILE
About Humphrey Gumpo
Weekend outings included bush walks with
Fortunate enough to experience the most amazing and educational natural interactions in his day-to-day work left Humphrey “no choice” but to learn the art of photography. “One is always learning photography,” he says, but
Wounded Zebra is treated By ZT correspondent Kariba Animal Welfare Fund Trust took care of an injured zebra recently. A lone zebra with a wounded back leg was reported to Kariba Animal Welfare Fund Trust by residents of Kariba town. The male zebra was favouring the back left leg and lifting it continuously. PHOTO: TAILOR MADE SAFARIS
B
orn in the small lakeside town of K a r iba, Humphrey discovered his love for the bush and remote areas at a young age. Surrounded by wilderness and water, buffalo, rhino, elephants and various antelope were part of the scenery on his journeys to school every morning.
friends, which his parents did not find amusing as these areas were alive with potentially dangerous wildlife species. This led Humphrey to follow a career in safari guiding, pursuing both walking and canoeing qualifications after high school.
This grazing was the only fresh food in a very hot dry season enabling grazers from inland to survive. Only the elephants, half-starved anyway in September, were pressed for food and attacked the bark not only of baobab, mopane and the albida trees but also
ANTI-POACHING
One is always learning photography but Humphrey Gumpo has grown into a specialist guide with a contagious passion for photography, and he loves sharing unique and remote Africa with wildlife enthusiasts and future generations. By ZT Correspondent
trees put out new leaves and countless sets of teeth and lips plucked the grasses to lawn height.
tamarind and the Zambezi fig. Early on they swam to the island reed beds and often made the dangerous trip to Zambia for fresh food. Another ecosystem to benefit was Bream Pools, choked for a decade by water hyacinth. The floods cleared out this thick burden, allowing more birds to use the pools. Schools at last can see hippo coming up to breathe. They also shiver at the thought of the huge manof-war with the armour-plated upper deck watching them from under the water. Hyacinth is a tenacious alien and a working team has been spraying the weed which is fast re-colonising the pools. The Rifa staff watched new landscapes appear as the water lever went down when the gates were closed. Overnight muddy channels and sands appeared, countless fish fingerlings dried out and over one hundred marabou storks came to the feast. Upstream a large new beach formed, ideal for school picnic days, so gone are the mud fights at Hot Springs.
Humphrey is joined by two elephants at the camp
Humphrey has grown into specialist guide with a contagious passion for photography, and he loves sharing unique
and remote Africa with wildlife enthusiasts and future generations.
On investigation it was decided to leave the animal to see if the small wound would heal without the trauma of darting and antibiotics. However a week later the leg had become quite swollen and it was necessary to dart and administer antibiotics as well as clean the wound. National Parks was contacted and a scout collected. Andries Scholtz who was sponsored by KAWFT to obtain his darting licence undertook to do the darting and the operation was successfully completed. ‘Bachelor Boy’ was still able, with his swollen and sore back leg, to move distances from one end of town to the other. He is now looking much better and was seen with a second zebra, perhaps no longer a bachelor!
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
Zambezi Traveller CONSERVATION
Travellers Friend 39
AWARENESS
Can elephants fly?
Sponsorship of event for the International Anti-Poaching Foundation
On 15 January, just over two months after his initial rescue, orphaned elephant calf Bezi was successfully relocated by air from Conservation Lower Zambezi base camp to the Elephant Orphanage Project, Lusaka.
The illegal trafficking of wildlife is now the 3rd largest illegal industry in the world. 20 April @ Mystique Function Centre, Bulwayo
Byline: By Sarah Davies
By Steven Dean
T
T
wo months after his rescue, orphaned elephant calf Bezi was successfully relocated by air from Conservation Lower Zambezi base camp to the Elephant Orphanage Project in Lusaka. In November 2011, Bezi was found without his mother at one of the lodges on the Zambian side of the middle Zambezi, and rescued when he fell into the swimming pool! He had been heard calling for his mother for 48 hours before he was reported to CLZ. Bezi was quarantined at CLZ base camp for two months while the authority and means to move him was arranged. Bezi was fed a complex formula every two hours by a tireless team of volunteers, his wounds were treated and his temperature and behaviour recorded while his condition gradually stabilised.
he International Anti Poaching Foundation (IAPF) mission is to protect and preserve wildlife in volatile regions.
PHOTO: CLZ
Getting Bezi on the plane
At about four months old and having been vaccinated, Bezi was flown to Lusaka, attended by Zambia Wildlife Authority vet Dr Harvey Kamboyi, Rachel Murton and Tanya Shober from the EOP. At the Elephant Orphanage Project in Lusaka, Bezi became the youngest member of the four-strong herd of orphan elephant calves.
elephant carers employed by CLZ from Chiawa village have been employed by EOP on a full time basis. Ultimately it is intended that Bezi and his adopted family will move to Kafue and be reintegrated into the wild. Thanks to all at the EOP, Royal Air Charters for transporting Bezi to Lusaka free of charge; and all those who generously contributed to costs of keeping Bezi at CLZ.
Although still underweight and vulnerable, he seems happy and healthy. Two casual
The IAPF is a fully registered charity in both Australia and Zimbabwe. We are a 100% non-profit organization. All the proceeds made go straight back into the foundation, which is distributed back on the ground in Africa. The money is spent in various ways. We equip, train and deploy new and existing ranger both in Zimbabwe and South Africa. Education within local schools is also a major priority of the foundation. It is imperative for the future of wildlife.
national park. This is a huge undertaking and support from local Zimbabwe donors is essential. Kirsty Alexander from Gardens & Events recently approached the Foundation to hold a charity event for the organisation and in particular Chizarira Whether it is equipment to host the event, prizes for auction through to a donation your participation and sponsorship in this event would be greatly appreciated.
For more information on the IAPF head to www.iapf. org or alternatively to see what is happening on a regular basis head to our blog at www.iapf.wordpress.com Kirsty Alexander +263773266997 events@qualityservice.com
Just recently we have been asked to conduct a feasibility study in preparation to rebuild and resurrect Chizarira
CONSERVATION
Jumbo’s valentines date By Sarah Davies
C
A different kind of arrow was received by a Lower Zambezi elephant this Valentine’s Day. After a severely injured bull was seen in the Nkalange area of the Park, Conservation Lower Zambezi organised
PHOTO: CLZ
onservation Lower Za mbe zi org a nised the darting and treatment of an elephant injured by a snare. Darted elephant
a date with a Zambia Wildlife Authority vet. Playing cupid complete with dart gun was Dr Harvey Kasmboyi, who was flown in to treat the elephant. The
young bull of about 20 years was located quickly and although still in good condition, he was suffering severely from a wire snare embedded in his front right leg, and was unable to move easily. After an efficient darting by Dr.Kasmboyi the wire was removed and the wound cleaned. Long-acting antibiotics were administered to help recovery from what would otherwise have been a fatal injury.
Within forty minutes of being sedated the elephant was back on his feet with good prospects for a full recovery. CLZ will continue to monitor the bull’s progress. Thanks to Dr.Kasmboyi for his expertise as well as research assistant Daniel Mwizabi. Thanks also to pilot Brad Reid for flying in Dr.Kasmboyi. Reports of a much younger snared calf were followed up, but due to thick bush at this time of year, aerial and road tracking was not successful and CLZ will continue the search.
Extraordinary Africa Royal Zambezi Lodge, an intimate family-owned property, is situated on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River on the edge of the unique Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia. The lodge offers the ultimate in comfort & luxury, with unrivalled game viewing accompanied by professional guides, a luxury spa and world-class fishing and fly fishing. Royal Zambezi Lodge - the epitome of the luxury safari experience.
www.royalzambezilodge.com
Email: reservations1@royalzambezilodge.com Tel: +26 (0) 979 486618
Renowned for breathtaking scenery and incredible wildlife, it's also home to one of the continent's top safari lodges
Chongwe River Camp | Chongwe River House | Kasaka River Lodge | Tsika Island Canoe Camp From award winning 5 star to rustic self catering – we are your complete Lower Zambezi solution.
Lusaka Office Tel: +260 211 841051/ +260 211 841052 Cell: +260 9 77 771316 / +260 9 74 773209 Email: info@chongwe.com / reservations@chongweriver.net
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
40 Travellers Friend Travel
Zambezi X-factor
Zambezi Traveller
COMMUNITY
Chillies to discourage crop raiders
PHOTOS: CLZ
By Mana Meadows
T
here’s a lot to love about Mana Pools. For me, daybreak is always a highlight. There’s an exquisite freshness that surrounds waking up before dawn in this tranquil riverside wilderness. Being up and about early with the rest of the diurnal animal kingdom is always satisfying. But being up in a new space, in the dark, with a steaming cup of coffee in hand and listening to the last sounds of the night as it retreats from the creeping dawn just adds that extra X-factor. The last lingering notes of lion music filter down from upstream while behind the tent, grazing hippos huff and puff – honking and grumbling at each other in the way that only hippos do. Across the Zambezi, the grey-blue Zambian escarpment is kissed pink by the emerging sun. Mist rises off the river. The first light seeps in and starts to separate the shadowy forms of the flat
Clearing and planting
Besa pumping
By Sarah Davies Conservation Lower Zambezi staff spent a long hot day in February in the village of Mugurameno, helping to plant chilli seedlings to ward off crop raiding elephants. The seedlings were grown by Zambeef at Chiawa from seed donated by South Luangwa Conservation Society, in a project funded by the Civil Society Environment Fund. PHOTO: MANA MEADOWS
Mana pools in the morning
river scene. The trees, the rocks, the escarpment all take on their own identity and the bird chorus cranks up a notch. The hippos start to make their way to the river, dive-bombing off the river bank like characters from Disney’s Fantasia movie – landing in spectacular shadowy explosions in the water below. From the comfort of your sleeping bag you can watch the whole show while the full flood of morning bird chorus
drenches the tent. Looking up through the open tent flaps, the acacia albida and pod mahogany canopies dance with the ceaseless flow of bright avian visitors while far up above, the sky is momentarily frenetic with the flight paths of various species of egrets, herons, ducks, geese and cormorants as they chart their way to feeding grounds. The sunrise itself is fleeting, but the sense of clarity and calm surrounding it lasts all day.
More info: For more information about booking accommodation in Mana Pools National Park contact Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management by viewing their website at www.zimparks.org National Parks accommodation consists of communal camping sites (with ablutions and braai facilities); private camping sites (basic toilet plus braai site) and lodges which are fully kitted.
As part of CLZ’s Environmental Education Programme, two local farmers, Joseph Liempe and Patrick Shawa, were chosen from a community survey because they have both suffered heavily from crop raiding elephants in the past. CLZ will assist with planting and sustainable irrigation using a treadle pump provided by CLZ. Next season these farmers will use a combination of methods to protect crops, including chilli fences and chilli burning blocks. “This is a small-scale initial project, but we hope to increase our role in human / elephant conflict activities, if we can secure funds and once we have more practical knowledge of the risks and possible solutions,” said a spokesperson for CLZ. Human / wildlife conflict has been recognised as a major threat to both the elephants and people of southern Africa, and should be addressed in the wider context of elephant conservation. Simple, low-cost and locally adapted methods have been shown to reduce site-specific conflict so that people and elephants can live together without danger and destruction. Visit www.slcszambia.org / www.csefzambia.org
2012 Schedule
Kariba Ferries March
LUXURY CRUISING
26
Kariba - Mlibizi
27
Mlibizi - Kariba
April
ON LAKE KARIBA
5
Kariba - Mlibizi
6
Mlibizi - Kariba
9
April Kariba - Mlibizi
10
April Mlibizi - Kariba
30
April Kariba - Mlibiz
May 1
May Mlibizi - Kariba
14
May Kariba - Mlibizi
15
May Mlibizi - Kariba
Confirm all dates well in advance before making any bookings.
LUXURY CRUISING GREAT SUNSET VIEWS
Linking Kariba and Victoria Falls
CONFERENCING UP TO 30 DELEGATES TOP DECK WITH BAR & SWIMMING POOL
THE SOUTHERN BELLE HAS THREE DECKS OFFERING 21 EN-SUITE CABINS AS WELL AS A CONFERENCE ROOM FOR UP TO 40 PEOPLE, LOBBY, SUNDRY SHOP, RESTAURANT AND BAR, SWIMMING POOL AND TOP DECK WITH BAR. IDEAL FOR BOTH LEISURE AND BUSINESS CRUISES WITH SPECTACULAR VIEWS, STUNNING SUNSETS AS WELL AS A RANGE OF ACTIVITIES OR WONDERFUL RELAXING HOLIDAYS JUST SOAKING UP THE SUNSHINE. WHEN DOCKED AT THE BAY THE RESTAURANT ON BOARD THE SOUTHERN BELLE IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC; RESERVATIONS ESSENTIAL. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT OUR RATES OR BOOKINGS, PLEASE CONTACT US ON +260 211 254 605 OR EMAIL reservations@proteahotels.co.zm PLOT 517 SIAVONGA, LAKE KARIBA, ZAMBIA | TEL: +260 211 511 638 | FAX: +260 211 511 639 EMAIL: reservations@phsouthernbelle.co.zm | proteahotels.com/southernbelle
Sit back relax and let us do the driving Tel: ZIM +263 4 614 162-7 Tel: RSA + 27 21 556 6965 Email: karibaferries@zol.co.zw Skype: kariba.ferries 2011 SAILING DATES HAVE BEEN POSTED SEE WEBSITE www.karibaferries.com
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Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 41
RECREATION
Test of the best is crowned Remington Gold proved their mettle once again by claiming the title of 2012 Test of the Best champions. Test of the Best is a two-day catch and release tigerfishing tournament held on Lake Kariba. By Mana Meadows
R
emington Gold proved their mettle once again by claiming the title of 2012 Test of the Best champions. Test of the Best is a two-day catch and release tiger-fishing tournament held on Lake Kariba. The elite tournament, this year held over the last week-
end of February in Charara, was contested by the top ten teams from the previous year’s Kariba Invitation Tiger Fish Tournament. The competition was especially fierce and the victory especially sweet this year as 2011 marked the 50th anniversary of KITFT. It’s been an impressive few months from Remington Gold who were also the
convincing winners of the 2011 KITFT. They started off well in the Test of the Best by establishing a good lead of 16 points to finish as the leading team after the first day. They carried on to win by a margin of more than 30 points – echoing their performance at the KITFT where they were the leading team at the end of each of the three days of the tournament. Despite only catching two fish less than Remington Gold, team Africom Charter X did not land enough heavy
Deane Le Roux, Dean Dewdney, Quinton Le Roux, Ewan Macmillan, Bryan Arnold And Peter Lawson, winning team Remington Gold Credit DSW of KITFT
fish and they came in second with 102.6 points, closely followed by Bumi Hills AntiPoaching with 101.2 points.
FACT FILE Average weight of fish caught: 2.8 kgs Total weight of fish caught: 851.4 kgs Total Number of fish caught: 300 Results of 2012 Test of the Best Tournament: FISH
POINTS
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
35 33 31 29 40 30 23 37 33 9
134.9000 102.6000 101.2000 92.9000 92.3000 90.3000 75.0000 72.8000 71.7000 17.7000
Remington Gold Africom Charter X Bumi Hills Anti-Poaching Stryke-Tynserv ULTC Team Burn Team Mega Team Nissan F Neill & Sons Bull Sharks Fisheagles Sakunda
Karl Eckard with his 8.6kg tiger caught and released in the Gache Gache on day two of the competition. The largest fish of the tournament.
PHOTO: Bob Warren-Codrington
Position Team
Quinton le Roux of Remington Gold said that his team was really pleased as it was the first time they had won KITFT and Test of the Best back to back. “We worked well as a team and both boats worked well together,” he said. Peter Lawson of Remington Gold landed the heaviest total catch with his 13 fish reaching a total weight of 45.1 kgs. He was closely followed by Boetie O’Neill of Africom Charter X who brought in 12 fish with a total weight of 42.5 kgs.
Karl Eckard of Team Nissan caught the heaviest individual fish, weighing in at 8.6 kgs. Team ULTC Burn was the only team that managed to catch their forty fish limit over the two days. This year Bols Brandy came in as a new Gold Sponsor, joining Nashua, Nissan and Zambezi, while Schweppes Water pitched in as the official water sponsor.
PHOTO: KITFT
Mega, Multichoice and RAM petroleum continued in their role as Silver Sponsors and Rapala sponsored the scales used to weigh the fish prior to their release. Tournament Director Rod Bennett said that this year’s event was “a real test of the best with the conditions really testing the anglers.” Visit www.kitft.co.zw/totb www.kitf.co.zw
Our very own Lady Jacquiline
ENJOY KARIBA WITH THE BEST E x p e r i e n c e S o u t h e r n A f r i c a !
B
AOBAB OOKINGS
zamt@flameofafrica.com / Tel: +27 (0) 31 762 2424
BOOKING AGENTS FOR VENUES IN ZIMBABWE/BOTSWANA/ ZAMBIA/NANMIBIA/MOZAMBIQUE
Self Catering/Catered Accommodation in Kariba. (Wild Heritage, Nzou Lodges, Fin’s fishing Safaris, Houseboats and fishing boat hire). For Bookings Contact: Kariba Office: (+263) 61 3127 & 2225, Mobile: (+263) 773 263 670/1, (+263) 712 417 358 or (+263) 712 412 555. Email: harland@bsatt.com, baobab@iwayafrica.com. Website: www.afrizim.com
Mercury OptiMax making fishing shing more pleasurable
» Direct fuel injection » Outstanding fuel economy » Full spares backup » 5 Year warranty » Qualified technicians » Competitively priced » Race proven pedigree P.O.Box 414, Bulawayo, Zimbabwe. Cnr R.Mugabe Way / 12th Ave, Bulawayo. Phone: +263-9-68502 / 70376 Fax: +263-9-62290 Cell: +263-712-602702 Email: sales@chasemarine.com
42 Travellers Friend
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
Zambezi Traveller
PHOTOGRAPHY
Feathered fight over fishing spot Christopher Scott shares on how he achieved a great photo of eagle and heron rivalry in the wild. By Christopher Scott
C
hristopher Scott shares on how he achieved a great photo of eagle and heron rivalry in the wild. On a recent visit to the stunning Matusadona National Park I was pottering around one of the multitude of quiet bays when I came across a Goliath heron going about his early morning routine; flitting from spot to spot looking for the biggest fish. The largest of the heron family, the Goliath is a beautiful bird and thus I was very keen to get a few pictures. I slowly and quietly eased myself into a position where I had a good view of him, hoping he would move towards me so the early light would catch him at the right angle and light up his plumage. After a few moments of blissful silence and serene obser vation, he started moving, to my dismay, away from me and towards the open water. Disappointed, but still keen for a picture of this large bird in flight, I lined up and waited patiently for him to spread his wings and head out.
Almost on cue, the magnificent bird, with wings outstretched, began his pre-flight check, when all of a sudden in a blur of sharp claws and unrestrained anger, a nearby previously peaceful fish eagle took deep exception to the presence of the Goliath.
The fish eagle and the heron
Almost on queue, the magnificent bird, with wings outstretched, began his preflight check, when all of a sudden in a blur of sharp claws and unrestrained anger, a nearby previously peaceful fish eagle took deep exception to the presence of the Goliath. All I saw through the view-
PHOTO: Christopher Scott
finder was a blur of motion in from the top right, and I heard the indignant squawk of the Goliath as it headed out, feathers somewhat ruffled! Thankfully, due more to instinct than anything else, I managed to squeeze off a few shots of the action before I even knew what was going
Situated in the eastern basin of Lake Kariba on the banks of the Gache Gache River.
Comfortable Chalets with panoramic views. Tiger Fishing, Game viewing by boat or vehicle, guided walks, canoeing, sun downer cruises.
An Island Paradise on Lake Kariba
Fishing Canoeing Game Drives Game Cruises Rhino Tracking Walking Safaris Dinosaur Fossils Tonga Cultural Village Sailing (morning, afternoon, and overnight available) Access by Air, Boat and Road.
Reservations: +(263-13) 43358 Cell: +(263) 772 307 875 Email: musango@microlink.zm www. musangosafaricamp.com
Gache Gache is known for its abundant wildlife and is a birding paradise. Rates include all activities, full board and laundry. Cash bar. The lodge is accessible by boat, road and air. Please enquire and we will gladly arrange all your travel or transfer requirements to suit your individual needs. Contact Details
Chapungu Safaris t/a Gache Gache Lodge 19 John Plagis Avenue, New Alexandra Park , Harare, Zimbabwe Tel: 00 263 4 745 717/745 762 Cell: 00 263 772 285 691 Email: bernie@chapungusafaris.co.zw Web: www.gachegachelodge.com / www.chapunguzim.com Skype: bernie.styles
on. Which brings me to some pearly photo advice; plan for everything and when it happens, when you are off guard, don’t hesitate to hold your finger down on the shutter button. You may end up with some stunning results! Visit www.scottyphotography.net
AWARDS “WINNER - 2011 - SAFARI OPERATOR’S ASSOCIATION OF ZIMBABWE AWARD FOR THE GREATEST CONTRIBUTION TO THE COMMUNITY” goes to... Chapungu Safaris t/a Gache Gache Lodge - K ariba Zimbabwe for Conservation to protect wildlife for the community. Establishing a Wildlife Environment Protection Unit (WEPU) for anti-poaching, including fish poaching and the protection & care of wildlife. Fish population has improved tremendously since then. Chapungu Safaris supplies fuel for vehicles to take poachers to Police/National Parks offices/jail in Kariba town. Feeding animals in drought times with hay bales, molasses and salt licks. Wildlife populations have improved tremendously in the Gache Gache Wilderness Area due to the efforts by Ray Townsend and the WEPU team.”
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
Zambezi Traveller
Travellers Friend 43
TRAVEL
Getting around the Zambezi Valley By Sally Wynn
HOW TO GET TO KARIBA
Hwange (Manga): Somalisa Camps
C
reative options for t r a n sfe r r i n g v i sitors into and around the Lake Kariba - Zambezi Valley areas are springing up this year, and travellers should think seriously about extending their trips to include Lake Kariba’s magnificent water wildernesses and the wildlife tourism options downstream of the dam. The international travel industry has started to remember what a wonderful place Zimbabwe is; an uncrowded African destination with a variety of travel opportunities, friendly people and pristine wildlife and safari options. Victoria Falls remains the country’s best-known destination, but few internationals are aware of the Zambezi River’s jewels downstream of the Falls, where most of the Zimbabwean side of the river is protected wildlife area. Self-drive locals and South Africans fell under the spell of Lake Kariba a long time ago but international visitors have yet to discover the idyllic holiday options available on Zimbabwe’s inland sea. Watch elephants, hippos, crocodiles and even lion from your lakeshore lodge or bushcamp, or from a houseboat, cruiseboat or sailboat parked in a quiet creek; take a guided walking safari and track the rare black rhinoceros; catch your supper of tilapia off the back of the boat, or do sporting battle with the formidable tigerfish. Further downstream, the river offers safaris through unbroken wildlife country, with Mana Pools National Park and its neighbouring safari areas forming a vast UNESCO World Heritage Site. Canoe the river on a 3-4 day safari, walk in the gamerich, riverine woodlands, or tackle the legendary river tigerfish which are leaner and meaner than their Lake Kariba counterparts. This is a wild paradise where development
Hwange: The Hide, Sikumi Tree Lodge, Ivory, Miombo & Hwange Safari Lodges Bumi Hills: Bumi Hills Safari Lodge, Rhino Safari Camp, Musango Camp Kariba: fuel stop or house boats Mana (Dandawa): Kanga Camp Mana Pools: Zambezi Life Styles, Vundu Camp, Goliath Safaris, various canoeing and walking safaris A number of creative options for transferring visitors are springing up this year, and international agents, tour operators and travellers should think seriously about extending their trips to include Lake Kariba’s magnificent water wilderness and the safari destinations downstream of the dam.
Access options: Safari Logistics Air Taxi: Run by African Bush Camps linking Victoria Falls, Hwange,
International visitors have yet to discover the idyllic holiday options available on Zimbabwe’s inland sea. is minimal and accommodation is in small lodges or tented camps to enhance the wilderness experience of visitors and protect the area’s pristine character.
person packed in a soft bag. No
Bumi Air 5-seater twin-engine flights: Coming soon: scheduled flights between Bumi Hills airstrip (on the southern shore of Lake Kariba) and Victoria Falls in a Baron 55 (twin engine 5-seater). Depart Bumi 0800 on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Return same day. Flight time 90 minutes, minimum 2 passengers, 15 kg of luggage per person only, packed in a soft bag. On-board refreshments. Bumi Hills airstrip services Bumi Hills Safari Lodge, Musango Safari Camp and Rhino Safari Camp. Flexible hops will also be available to other airstrips; charters available on non-schedule flight days.
on-board refreshments.
E-mail: bumiair@bumihills.com
Kariba Creek with hippos
Matusadona, Kariba and Mana Pools, in a 4-seater single-engine Cessna 206. Flights depart Victoria Falls at 08.00 on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays and make a circuit between the various airstrips listed below, returning
PHOTO: KIERAN WYNN
to Victoria Falls on the same day at 15.35. Pay for and fly only the sector you require. Minimum 2 passengers. 20 kg luggage per
Visitors to Zimbabwe are missing out on something special if they don’t look further than Victoria Falls. But how to get there? There are international flights into Victoria Falls, Harare and Lusaka,
but few reliable services linking Kariba and the Zambezi Valley with these regional tourism hubs.
+263 (0) 772 135 664
zambezi@iwayafrica.com
Tailormade Safaris: Road transfers Kariba-ChirunduMana Pools. This is a new product from a company that also offers minibus road transfers linking Kasane and Livingstone with Victoria Falls, Hwange, Bulawayo, Matopos, Great Zimbabwe, the Eastern Highlands, Harare and Lusaka. Guests are transferred by knowledgeable driver/guides. Refreshments, snacks and packed lunches included on longer transfers. info@tailormade-safaris.com
(263) 9 234307 +263774641622 shelley@africanbushcamps.com
Website: www.wildzambezi.com
ZAMBEZI TRADER LAKE KARIBA
RI www.bumihills.com
River Horse Safaris: Road transfers Lusaka-ChirunduKariba: minibus road transfers for groups (minimum 3 passengers) Lusaka-Kariba or return (3-4 hours daily). Also 11-seater minibus transfers LusakaChirundu for onward 4x4 transfer into Mana Pools in conjunction with Tailormade Safaris (see below) (allow 5-6 hours Lusaka-Mana Pools). Drinks and meals can be arrangement on request.
Kanga Camp and Zambezi Life Styles offer inland and riverside experiences of the World Heritage Site, Mana Pools
PHOTO: SALLY WYNN
Canoes in Mana Pools
ER
HOR SE
reservations@bumihills.com
reservations@bumihills.com
www.africanbushcamps.com
V
Zimbabwe’s iconic destination on Lake Kariba
Bumi Hills 18-seater transfer boat from Kariba: Boat transfers across Lake Kariba from Kariba town to the Bumi Hills harbour. 6-18 passengers. Crossing about one and a half hours, depending on weather. On board bar.
WEDDINGS, CONFERENCES, REUNIONS, ANNIVERSARIES FOR GROUPS OF 20 UP TO 90+
S A FA R I S Adventure style participatory canoeing trips for out door enthusiasts, incentive groups and youth challenges. Situated in the Lower Zambezi River between Kariba Dam and Mana Pools and beyond Road transfers
Lusaka – Harare – Kariba – Mana
SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR: SCHEDULED CRUISE DATES KARIBA - BINGA CRUISE DATES www.zambezitrader.co.zw; info@zambezitrader.co.zw (+263)773 021 203 ; 0772 601 875 ; 0774 343 855 85 Harare drive, Marlborough, Harare
Email: zambezi@iwayafrica.com Tel: 263 – 772235340 / 772235311 http://www.zambezicanoeing.com
zambezi kariba & middle-zam
44 Travellers Friend
2012 Kariba Half Marathon
ART & CRAFT
Bed of thorns
SUNDAY 12 AUGUST 2012
By Will Maberly
REGISTRATION – OG’S HARARE Thursday 2 & Friday 3 August 5pm – 8pm LATE REGISTRATIONS LOMAGUNDI LAKESIDE, KARIBA, Saturday 11 August from 10am – 4pm. Strictly no entries after 4pm
Old buffalo bulls can be cantankerous - walking across something like this can make your heart beat a lot faster. These old men often hang about in thickets, and nearly always sit in such a way that they cover each other’s backs. Here, in the shade of the palms and a young Baobab tree, amongst the combretum thickets, sit three old men living life as it is, in the comfort and necessity of each other’s presence.
ENTRY FEE - $20 per 21km & 10km entry, $2 for 2km baby race. Start Time - & Where Start Is Start time AMC garage - 21km Half Marathon start 06h30 10km Fun Run start 06h40 (fun runners to
Website: www.willmaberlyart.com
Classifieds Accommodation
Boating
Food Supplies
of all boating, Safari & outdoor living accessories. Contact: McLine - + 263 772 709 470 or +263 61 2627 Stand 740 Chawara, Kariba Kariba Houseboat Cruises Special - February
and March 2012 Offering 4 nights for the price of 3 on Shikra, Osprey and Peregrine Full catering offered. Contact: Lynn or Cally Phone: +263 61 2923, Mobile: +263 (0) 774 578 622 Email: karibahouseboatcruises@gmail.com
Fine Art
Catering Lodges in Kariba E-mail - tamarind@zol.co.zw Tel - +263 61 2697 or +263 772 880868 GPS Reading S 16°31’28.6° E 028°49’19.5°
We offer Beers & Soft Drinks on a Sale on return basis plus Ice & Fishing Bait. Contact: bluewaters@iwayafrica.com Tel: +263 61 2971 / 2972
Hardware
Boating
Sale or Share Option. Moored at Marineland, Kariba Contact: Garth - +263 772 877 083
Blue Waters @ Andora Harbour, Kariba.
Suppliers of all Drinks, Ice, Bait, Fuel & Oil and the Best Biltong, Dry Wors & Chilli Bites in Zimbabwe. Contact - Colin or Debbie Cell - +263 774 143 064 Phone - +263 61 3278 E-mail - debsmac70@yahoo.co.uk
Lodge with swimming pool & 4 bedrooms en-suite, fully serviced. Contact us for Rates etc. Garth - +263 772 877 083 Fiona - +263 773 194 088 E-mail - fionaB@cas.co.zw
Chessa - 46’Monohull Steel boat fully equipped for
Suppliers of all Dairy, Beef, Pork, Poultry, Fresh Fruit, Vegetables & Dry Goods. All you will need for your Holiday to Kariba. E-mail - crispy@utande.co.zw Tel: +263 61 2880/3024/2592 or +263 773 921 687
Chawara Harbour - t/a C&D SUPPLIES
Pagungwa Lodge, Breezes Road, Kariba.
Repairs by trained personnel. Stand 762 Chawara Kariba Contact: Rob - +263 61 2356 / +263 772 355 561
Crispy Fresh - Visit our One Stop Shop!
Harbours
Tamarind lodges - Comfortable, Budget Self
Rj Marine Services - Outboard Motor Service &
note that only the first 3 runner in will be timed) Baby race starts at 10h30 at the Lomagundi Lakeside main gate Prize giving from 11h30 at Lomagundi Lakeside Dome
Registration forms available via email or can be collected from: Old Georgians Sports Club, Harare, Lomagundi Lakeside Office, Kariba - E-mail – karibahalfmarathon@gmail.Com Tel: Kiara 0779 675 935 (Working hours only) Sonya 0772 874 352 (Working hours only) COME JOIN US For a fun filled weekend with water slides, bucking bronco, disco, full bar and catering before and after the race! Accommodation enquiries contact: gokariba.com: enquiries@gokariba. com or Lomagundi@zol.co.zw
Advertise in the Kariba & Lower Zambezi Classifieds sonya@zol.co.zw +263 772 874 352 Sonya McMaster
Mcline Canvas - For all your manufacture & repairs
Warthogs Bush Camp, Kariba - Clean and Comfy Budget Accommodation for families, groups and individuals. Bar on the lakeshore serving meals all day every day. Splash Pool, Kid’s Play Area. DSTV. Registered Tour Operators for Houseboats, Canoe Safaris, Tailor Mades. relax@warthogs.co.zw www. warthogs.co.zw 0712 201 733 0775 068 406
Zambezi Traveller
Will Maberly Art Landscapes and scenes from
the Zambezi Valley, oil on canvas, by renowned artist Will Maberly. Visit our website or make an appointment to have a private viewing of this amazing art collection. Phone +263 (0) 772 218573, +263 (0) 772 205932, email wm@ iitrade.net and website www.willmaberlyart.com
Endura Rubba Paints - For all your
requirements of Dulux Paints, Lubricants, Thinners, Resin, Fibreglass, Filters, Eezipool Products, V belts & accessories, Tandem lawnmowers, Eureka DIY and more Contact: Nikki - 0774 060 717 Tiri - 0775 965 547 Land Line - 061 2325
Restaurants Criselle’s @ Warthogs - Delicious meals available
at Warthogs Bushcamp, Powerline road, Kariba Contact Criselle - +263 772 358 432 or +261 61 2701
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www.zambezitraveller.com The Zambezi River is now officially online
Thatching Grass Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell +263 (0) 777 560 856 or landline +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: derekdianawilk@mango.zw. Website: http..// thatchinggrasssuppliers.webs,com
Tours & Safaris Pesha Safaris - Zimbabwe - Houseboats, Canoe
Safaris, Vic Falls, Botswana - Chobe, Delta, Tented Safaris. Zambia - Luangwa Bush Camps, Exclusive Lodges Contact us for all your Holiday Packages and personalised safari itineraries. Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba E-mail - pesha@mweb.co.zw Phone - +263 61-3121/2247/3181 Mobile – +263 772 763 916/8
Mopani Cruises - for all your icentive travel on
Houseboats & Catering, Lodges, Transfers & day trip bookings Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba E-mail - mopani@zol.co.zw or mopanicruises@gmail.com Phone - 00 263 613195 Cell - 00 263 772 856 319
Sheer Magic Houseboat - Kariba Zimbabwe
For a fantastic pontoon houseboat experience! Contact: Sonya McMaster +263 772 874 352 E-mail - sonya@zol.co.zw Thatching Grass
Experience a houseboat holiday with
DRIFTER and MAKULU HOUSEBOAT CHARTERS
Mono-hull houseboat that can sleep up to 12 pax.
Kariba, Zimbabwe
Phone: + 263 (0) 772 348 091 E-mail: kbeng@zol.co.zw
Contact Nikki Blyth Telephone: 0774 060 717 nixblyth@gmail.com
Sonya McMaster email: sonya@zol.co.zw Tel: +263 772 874 352
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EE For school, formal, NQ UI RIE leisure, sports, infants... SO NL we have the socks for you Y DISTRIBUTED BY THE ZIMBABWE HOSIERY COMPANY (PVT) LTD
Bulawayo - Head Office 3 Liverpool Road P.O.Box 8133, Belmont, Tel: (263 9) 462333/4, Fax: (263 9) 460551 Email:sales@zimhosiery.co.zw Harare 43 (Old) Enterprise Road, Newlands Tel: (263 4) 746503 Fax: (263 4) 746503 Cell: 0714 413 438 Email:cburns@zimhosiery.co.zw
Harare on your way to the Zambezi
45
JEWELLERY
Finding the secrets of the stone Each piece of jewellery hand crafted from ompiling a feature on African crystals and Harare’s Doon Estate stones by Our Crystal for t he December Passion is a work of art.
Having access to a myriad of African stones and knowledge through her geologist ex-husband, Aude made a couple of necklaces for herself. The response and reactions when she wore these pieces planted the seeds and ultimately the birth of the business Our Crystal Passion.
By Pam Lindsay
C
issue of Zambezi Traveller, I happened across a truly Zimbabwean gem. Set in beautiful suburban surroundings, Our Crystal Passions’ airy premises exude calm, tranquility and creativity. The two owners of this treasure trove, Aude and
Sieglinde, are as unique and colourful as each of the pieces they create. Our Crystal Passion came into being ten years ago when Aude, who is a trained and practicing yoga teacher, became interested in the ‘energies’ of crystals.
Whats On
Each exquisite creation is unique and individual, hiding a secret message for the wearer. “The stones have to sing to me
HIFA 2012 1-5 May HARARE INternational FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS
This years’ theme is A Time to Show!
Thursdays
Acting classes @ Reps
George Barnes Room at Reps Theatre Are you an actor/actress? Do you aspire to be one? Then Reprobates is for you! Acting classes with an accent on fun and easy learning. Every Thursday in the George Barnes Room at Reps Theatre, starting 6pm Open to all – Reps members and aspiring Reps members (you’ll be shown how to join up!) Linked to this initiative is SUNDAY NIGHT LIVE a monthly showcase for Reprobates and other talent in Theatre Upstairs. 29 March 7pm
The Gospel of Othello
British Ambassador residence Fundraiser for the Harare City Library. The British Ambassador is hosting a Black Tie, Venetian-themed Champagne Dinner and Theatre, with an exclusive performance of The Gospel of Othello with Patrice Niambana (Royal Shakespeare Company) and talented Zimbabwean artists, at her residence on. Tables of 10 and limited numbers only. Contact Nancy Benham benham@dfid.gov.uk or 0772 127214 23 to 27 May
Bulawayo Music Festival
Call for Volunteer Experienced Choristers. Carl Orff’s magnificent work, Carmina Burana, will be performed by massed choirs and accompanied by top international musicians at the upcoming Bulawayo Music Festival. For more information Contact rosie@wildimaginings.net
Music Dance Theatre Arts & Crafts Fine Art Workshops Poetry Food Stalls Memorabilia Look out for Edith we Utonga (Zimbabwe’s only female lead singer who plays the bass guitar) as she teams up with Publish the Quest (USA) to produce a unique Afro - Rock fusion performance on the Main Stage.
Travelling? Going Fishing? Email us your orders Bond Street Cnr The Chase, Mount Pleasant Shops
Tel: 04 336373/79 | Billy: 0772 116451 / | Email: bilsan@zol.co.zw Biff: 0772 265696 | Email: biff@yoafrica.com
SEALIFE SEAFOODS
For all your fish & seafood requirements TEL: 498021/3
Shop No. 53 Borrowdale Village
Tel: 263 4 885660 | Fax: 263 4 883214 | Email: masterangler@zol.co.zw
THE CODFATHER RESTAURANT
Is now open
Tel: 498021/3 for Bookings
as I work,” says Aude, a true artist. Entirely hand-made on the premises, each piece is crafted from silver and genuine African gems and crystals. O ur Cr y stal Passion donated for auction a unique necklace and earring set called ‘Awakening the Wild Woman’ to the highly successful Celebration of Painted Wolves event, featured in this issue of Zambezi Traveller.
zambezi harare
46 Travellers Friend
CONSERVATION in ACTION
Zambezi Traveller
Compiled by Lin Barrie
Celebrating Painted Wolves Funds raised by a glamorous “Safari Soiree” in Harare will go to two Zimbabwean wild dog conservation projects, Painted Dog Conservation based in Hwange, and the Lowveld Wild Dog Project based in the south east of the country. Emma and Conor O’Beirne of Happy Readers Books have donated ten sets of literacy series to LWDP, plus classroom kits, which will directly benefit children in schools adjacent to Gonarezhou National Park.
Lin Barrie and Jeremy Borg meet with The Giant bottle in Harare
T
wo wild dog conservation projects were the beneficiaries of a glamorous soiree in Harare late last year. Billed the ‘Conservation Event of the Year,’ the event combined talks by wildlife experts, catering by a top event coordinator and an exhibition by well-known wildlife artist Lin Barrie. Supporting the event was Painted Wolf Wines of Cape Town, launched by Jeremy and Emma Borg, with their local agents Harrison and Hughson.
One of the auction prizes at the event was a giant bottle of Painted Wolf Shiraz, which arrived after some adventure en route by air and road from Cape Town. Catering for the dinner was by Lee Vermaak, and the event was held in an elegant white Rooneys tent pitched in the Mukuvisi Woodlands, an appropriately wild location in the heart of the city. Funds raised by the event went to two Zimbabwean wild dog conservation projects, Painted Dog Conservation and the Lowveld Wild Dog
FACT FILE
According to the IUCN Red Data list for endangered species, between 3000 – 5500
Painted Dog Conservation will use the funds to continue its children’s bush camp programme in Hwange in 2012, having lost the support of an international donor at the close of 2011. The Lowveld Wild Dog Project will use the funds to facilitate a mobile education and library unit to provide a variety of educational resource materials direct to communities.
WORK with local people to enable wild dogs to co-exist with increasing human populations, through better protection and implementation of education programmes.
Tete-an older female ‘Aunt’ from Snare’s pack, Inset: The four surviving pups in Snare’s pack
Lycaon pictus, meaning ‘painted, wolf-like animal,’ is a descriptive name for the graceful wild dog, also commonly known as painted dog or African hunting dog. Painted wolf is another apt name for this endangered predator, considering the similarities in social pack structure between African wild dogs and wolves. Although it belongs to the Family Canidae, the wild dog is not of the species canis. Unlike wolves, it cannot interbreed with domestic dogs.
Project based in the south east of the country.
populations are declining generally; the challenges for conservationists are threefold:
Lycaon pictus According to the IUCN Red Data list for endangered species, between 3000 – 5500 free-ranging wild dogs remain in Africa, mostly in southern Africa and parts of East Africa.
Mahenye school children, beneficiaries from Happy Reader Books and education outreach programmes
African wild dogs have disappeared from much of their former range throughout subSaharan Africa. free-ranging wild dogs remain in Africa, mostly in southern Africa and parts of East Africa. In Zimbabwe, there are estimated to be about 520 wild dogs. Since the formation of the Save Valley Conservancy in 1991, the wild dog population there has slowly re-introduced itself. Likewise, the populations of Mana Pools, Victoria Falls and surrounds, Hwange and surrounds, Gonarezhou National Park and Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve, have shown encouraging resilience in the face of adversity. However,
Establish effective techniques for protecting small wild dog populations from infections such as rabies and distemper. Expand connectivity of habitat available to wild dogs across southern Africa, emphasising the importance of corridors between Trans Frontier Conservation Areas. The Conservation projects listed below address all of the above challenges; here ZT highlights the educational aspects of their work. Painted Dog Conservation, working in Hwange, Victoria Falls and Mana Pools, aims to protect and increase the range and numbers of the painted dog in Zimbabwe and elsewhere in Africa. They are committed to creating a conservation model built on education, community involvement and international support.
Sponsored by Booze-@-Drew
The Safari Soiree will be repeated in 2013, and ‘A Celebration of Painted Wolves,’ which now has its own facebook page, is growing into a project with far reaching initiatives for wild dog conservation.
Snare and her sister
Jeremy Borg is planning Pedals for Paws, in which he will ride by bicycle to key wild dog sites in Sub-Saharan Africa during 2012 and 2013, to raise funds for, and awareness of wild dog conservation.
I
The two Zimbabwean wild dog research projects will engage with Mukuvisi Woodlands’ Eco Schools programme during 2012, giving interactive talks to Harare school children. Iganyana Arts and Crafts produce sculptures from recovered snare wire. The children’s bush camp and conservation clubs at local schools teach conservation concepts, promoting an ongoing interest in nature. The Lowveld Wild Dog Project, working in the Save Valley Conservancy and Gonarezhou, believes that investing in future generations and improving the relationships between protected areas and neighboring communities will have immeasurable benefits for long term conservation on a broad scale. Community education and outreach are a primary focus. The project is implementing a long term, sustainable education programme for primary schools in the Greater Limpopo Trans Frontier Conservation Area, together with Chishakwe Ranch and the Lowveld Rhino Trust. Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve, adjacent to Gonarezhou, has an excellent community outreach programme and have initiated a schools bush camp programme. Mukuvisi Woodlands in Harare has a strong ‘Eco-Schools’ programme working with schools in and around the capital city.
The story of Snare Artist Lin Barrie has been watching and sketching wild dogs for many years, never wearying of these graceful and seriously endangered animals.
n the many years that I have been watching and sketching wild dogs, I have never wearied of my passion for these graceful and seriously endangered animals.
Thick coats of black and gold, splashed with unique white markings and white flagged tails, greeted us when we first saw the particular pack of wild dogs that we watched throughout 2007, in the south of the Save Valley Conservancy. Lean and long-legged, with astonishingly large black ears and elegant black masks, these animals were a painter’s dream of energetic movement and colour. Except for one young female. A gaping wound betrayed a wire snare wrapped tight around her throat. She was wary and difficult to approach, since the pack had not yet denned. I called her ‘Snare’ and knew she would die if we did not help her. The Alpha female of Snare’s pack was visibly pregnant, and obviously looking for a suitable den site. After many anxious days, scouts located the den in a warthog burrow and we began to habituate the dogs to our presence, in the process discovering that more than nine pups had been born. Each day I watched Snare struggle to breathe. She resolutely trailed after her pack on every hunt, interacting as best she could with her boisterous siblings. Thin and subdued, she avoided playing with the new puppies, unlike her sisters. Her siblings licked her terrible wound and chaperoned her constantly. I cried as her brother repeatedly tried to bite the terrible noose from her neck. Snare tried hard to interact with her siblings in the pep rallies before evening hunts, but she could not match their playful exuberance. Another tragedy then hit the dogs - a python discovered the burrow and, overnight, ate many of the pups. The Alpha female immediately relocated the four surviving pups to a nearby warthog burrow. After some aborted attempts to dart the elusive Snare, eventually we immobilized her. Removing the wire, we found that it had begun to cut into her trachea. Cleaning the wound as best we could, we administered antibiotics and hope... Then came a transformation that was wondrous to behold - slowly but surely Snare went from strength to strength, interacting more and more each day with the pups and hunting with her pack. She was a new animal, the breath still faintly whistling through the healing hole in her neck, but her eyes bright and her enthusiasm boundless. She became a leader of the hunt, often being the first to return with the Alpha male, both bloody necked from a successful kill, to regurgitate food for the Alpha female and the pups. Snare will be forever an icon of survival in my memory; an indomitable, invaluable, social animal.
9a Drew Road, Chisipite, Tel: 0774 638 893 Email: sales@9adrew.com Email: dean@9adrew.com Email: kim@9adrew.com
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Travellers Friend 47
u Teddy. o y o t g n i n my Good eve nd during otswana, a zi Hi Francis
I have been meaning to write to you ever since I first read your newspaper - it is just wonderful!! We enjoyed the last one so I thought it is high time we wrote and tried to subscribe. I would like to subscribe for ourselves and four others. I was reading through it and was delighted to see John Cockburn’s article and a picture of my Mum, her Mum and her brothers. Chrissie, Mutare
Frances
r Zambe a trip to B sues of you rned from is tu f o re le st p ju u o e I hav ross a c s I came ac wandering frica, I Traveller. in South A resting g in v li w o ean n e most inte ver it x Zimbabw possibly th e b red o to Being an e n o blicati ss, and I po u ro p c r a u e o y m d o c foun ve ever r that I ha newspape of Africa for hours!! ion – a part ss a p y m e ns to b hat happe World. It covers w nywhere else in the a d unparallele ular copies, ceiving reg here re t u o b a o to g so w ise me how can be posted, and if Please adv y e th t er or no and wheth ent can be made. The Zambezi Traveller ym a welcomes letters to postage p
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uth Africa uthrie, So Gordon G
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Available from: Local Hotels and Lodges and coffee shops The travellers friend, a definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi. Distributed world wide to Travel Agents, industry shows, hotels, lodges and key public areas throughout the region, including capital cities. Expose your destination, activities, businesses to an international market through the Zambezi Traveller. Editorial Submissions Zambezi Traveller welcomes editorial submissions but reserves the right to publish. Email in Word format to fjackson@iwayafrica.com
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48 Travellers Friend
Zambezi Traveller
RESEARCH
Top award for lion researcher Dr Andrew Loveridge from Oxford University’s Wildlife Conservation Research Unit (Department of Zoology) has won the SATIB Trust Award in recognition of his dedicated work in understanding lion biology and supporting conservation in Africa. recognition,” said Brian Courtenay, South African businessman, founder and Chairman of SATIB Insurance Brokers and the Ivory Group. “For me it is a great honour to award this Landrover Defender to Andy for his and the team’s ongoing enthusiasm and dedication.” The award was created to mark the launch of the SATIB Trust. Courtenay has been a trustee of Endangered Wildlife Trust for 17 years, a trustee of Elephants for Africa (UK) for four years and is a long standing supporter of conservation work in southern Africa. He now chairs the SATIB Trust which will provide a conduit of support to conservation projects in Africa. Prof. David Macdonald, Director the WildCRU, commented “Our work at Hwange
R
esearcher and conservationist Dr Andrew Loveridge from Oxford University’s Wildlife Conservation Research Unit has won the SATIB Trust Award for his work focused on lion in Hwange. The SATIB Trust supports conservation initiatives to protect southern Africa’s natural heritage for future generations and the Award is in recognition of the dedication of the Hwange Lion Project team working in Zimbabwe under difficult conditions. Dr Loveridge is the Kaplan Research Fellow at Lady Margaret Hall, Oxford University, and a member of the Wildlife
Conservation Research Unit within the Zoology Department at the University. He has spent the last 15 years researching lions and other carnivores in southern Africa. L ov er idge heads the Hwange Lion Project which focuses on the ecology, behaviour and conservation of the lion, aiming to provide reliable data for the conservation and management of this iconic species. “I am delighted and deeply honoured to accept this award,” said Dr Loveridge. “It is immensely encouraging to have my own and my team’s research and conservation efforts recognised. “African lions and most other large carnivores, world-
“Our findings at Hwange have influenced ideas about people living alongside predators around the world. Andy Loveridge’s inspiration and dedication to lion conservation has been immense, and WildCRU is deeply proud of his achievements and this richly deserved prize.” SATIB Insurance Brokers/ Ivory Group provide risk solutions for the hospitality, tourism, safari and wildlife industry throughout southern Africa using long term underwriting facilities with Lloyds of London. Visit www.wildcru.org Visit http://ww w.satib.co. za/ SATIB_Trust.aspx
PHOTO: BRIAN COURTENAY
The grand prize, a landrover from SATIB Trust
By ZT correspondent
is a model for how scientific discoveries can inform policy and change practice, leading to benefits for both wildlife and people.
wide, face significant threats to their continued survival in the wild. One of the keys to halting the continued decline of these species is through handson practical research and conservation, undertaken by WildCRU and the Hwange Lion Conservation Project.” The SATIB Trust award ceremony and handover of a specially fitted new Land Rover Defender LWB will coincide with Indaba, the annual tourism convention in Durban, South Africa. The vehicle has drop sides, long range fuel tanks, duel battery, 220 Volts power system and GPS. “I know the harsh conditions these researchers work under with little
Brian Courtenay hands over the Landrover log book to Dr. Andy Loveridge. Left to right. Crouching - Brent Stapelkamp, Lovemore Sibanda, Standing - Brian Courtenay, Andrew Loveridge, Jane Hunt
PHOTO: SATIB TRUST HWANGE LION RESEARCH