United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine April 2010 by Ahmed Aamir

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There’s no better way to experience Chicago than from the very heart of it, which makes our six distinctive city-center hotels the perfect choice for your Chicago getaway. With easy access from both Chicago O’Hare and Midway International Airports, whether you are visiting for business, a family vacation or a quick weekend to recharge, Marriott ® has the perfect hotel for you. From high-tech amenities and family-friendly activities to gourmet eateries and luxury spas, however you spend your time in Chicago, we have you covered. CHICAGO. GET AWAY, YOUR WAY. Discover the possibilities, make your reservation today at ChicagoMarriottHotels.com or call 800.228.9290. © 2010 Marriott International, Inc.

Savor the breezy half-mile trip across Lake Geneva to the Left Bank, where locals are sunbathing and a few hearty souls are enjoying a morning swim 3PD | P. 86 Apr. HUNTING AND GATHERING We’ve rounded up the world’s best shops for browsers, splurgers and everyone in between. TO AID AND COMFORT Following the earthquake in Haiti, a U.S. Navy hospital ship embarks on what could be its last mission. BY STEPHAN TALTY THREE PERFECT DAYS: GENEVA Known for its timepieces, its banking and the United Nations, this elegant city has a surprisingly smalltown feel. BY JEBEDIAH REED 72 contents UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MACLEODSEANBYPHOTOGRAPH A tour boat on Lake Geneva YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 8680

APRIL 2010 COVER IMAGE Guy Billout // www.guybillout.com 40 BENOISTCLAIREBYPHOTOGRAPHWRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 12 Comments 15 Voices United conserves its energy. 18 Connections Mileage Plus miles contribute to warm, fuzzy feelings. 20 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 23 Notes From All Over A lonely hearts club in Istanbul; something’s cooking in Hyde Park, New York; a big beaver is on the loose in Devon, England; it’s moving day in Kiruna, Sweden; and it’s gameday in Pittsburgh. DIRECTIONS 29 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go. 35 Hero Veronique Matthews enlists miniature horses in an effort to alleviate chronic pain. 36 Whirlwind Five hours in Washington, D.C. 39 Goods CULTURE 43 Style Not content merely to clothe people anymore, H&M launches a home line. By Sarah Horne 45 Whereabouts Choreographer Twyla Tharp steps lively in the Big Apple. 46 Print After a frightening diagnosis, author Bruce Feiler ﬁnds surrogate fathers for his little girls. // By Aaron Gell 48 Sound Country star Merle Haggard is still at it with another outspoken album. // By Alan Light 50 Vision The Wire's David Simon gives a sneak peek at his new show, Treme // By Layla Schlack 52 Wheels The Mercedes-Benz hybrid makes it a little easier being green. // By Mike Guy 54 Industry A group of Polaroid devotees revives the brand. What will develop next? By Sarah Gilbert 58 Food & Drink Chilling out and digging in at Gelato University. By Nina Burleigh 63 Sports With the start of baseball season comes a whole lot of hooey. We dispel some of the myths. // By Adam K. Raymond 67 Diary Two teenage friends hatch a brilliant idea to liven up their town. // By Job Brother 71 Artifact A souvenir from the ﬁeld PLAY 111 Movies, television and audio programming 122 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 134 Crossword and sudoku 138 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you? 139 Beverages & Food54

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 ? Just ContributorsPerfect!

12 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COMcomments EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy SENIOR EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack EDITORIAL INTERNS Carren Jao, Calvin Men ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham Roumieu EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Ari Kasimov, Catherine Hanson, Christa Abdou, Cynthia Carns, David Levy, David Low, Jorge Abadia REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVE HAWAII Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300 INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES CHINA/JAPAN TEL:JOSEPHINE.HO@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+85235419890 SOUTHEAST ASIA TEL:SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+6563022465 EUROPE TEL:MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138796 MIDDLE EAST PRODUCTIONTEL:ANTHONY.AZOURY@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138798MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLERS Grace Rivera, Diksha Patel Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in HEMISPHERES are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES

The usual talent behind our “Artifact” section branched out this month to comeordinarycananglesplayingstill-lifes,aownPolaroid,the(page“PhotographicshootMemory”54),aboutreemerganceofalthoughhercameraofchoiceisHasselblad.Ofshootingshenotes,“Bywithlight,scale,andsoon,youmakeseeminglyobjectsreallytolife.”

LAYLA SCHLACK A senior editor at Hemispheres, Schlack, who oversaw our feature on the world’s best shops (“Hunting and Gathering,” page 72), thinks shopping is the ideal way to experience the world. London’s markets are her favorite places to part with her funds, but the boutiques in New York, where she lives, are a close second.

JEBEDIAH REED A contributor to Popular Science, Men’s Journal and Salon.com, the author of this month’s Three Perfect Days (page 86) took his ﬁrst trip to Switzerland to ski on a glacier when he was 13 years old. “This might sound cheesy,” he says, “but I remember watching the sun rise over the Alps and thinking it was the most beautiful thing I’d ever seen.”

CLAIRE BENOIST

Three Perfect Days is Hemispheres’ most popular feature. We know many of you follow our itineraries to the letter, so we do our best to ensure they’ll help you make the most of United destinations. According to many of our online commenters, it seems we’re doing a good job. In response to our February edition, Isolde writes, “I’m always curious to see what’s recommended to tourists, and this would deﬁnitely give them a true taste of beautiful Montreal!” Our piece on Sonoma prompted Shana Ray to remark, “There is more to Sonoma than simply wine tasting—it is truly a wonderful place to visit (and live), which you captured here perfectly! Great description of the area.” And in response to our look at Budapest, eddiefadel raved, “I like this article very much. I wish I’d read it before visiting Budapest! Thank you Sarah Horne for great work!” We second the hearty thanks to our globe-trotting writers and photographers for crafting such perfect days. We also received a nice shout-out from Z Recommends, a popular parenting blog—high praise given how little time parents have to curl up with a magazine like ours, in the air or on land. “United Airlines’ Hemispheres inﬂight magazine is put out by Ink Publishing, a team with a track record of printing stories that you might actually want to read,” writes Jeremiah. “For the past several months they’ve been publishing, in addition to the travel and food stories you’d expect to read at 30,000 feet, some quality shortform features with a surprisingly web-savvy perspective.”

We took the top spot in on-time arrivals of domestic scheduled flights in 2009* among US Airways, Delta, Continental and American. It’s a victory for the people of United who worked together to deliver on behalf of our customers who depend on us. United. #1 in on-time arrivals of America’s five largest global carriers in 2009.* * According to recently published arrival data in the U.S. Department of Transportation’s Air Travel Consumer Report, United ranked highest in on-time performance for domestic scheduled flights as measured by the U.S. DOT (flights arriving within 14 minutes of scheduled arrival time) between January 1 and December 31, 2009, when compared to the largest U.S. global carriers based on available seat miles, enplaned passengers or passenger revenue, which includes Delta (including its Northwest subsidiary), American, Continental and US Airways. © 2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Meanwhile, United continues to take advantage of these new technologies and procedures within the confines of the current air traffic control system. For example, in November 2008, United was the first U.S. carrier to participate in the Asia and South Pacific Initiative to Reduce Emissions (ASPIRE). By utilizing up-to-the minute fuel data, priority takeoff clearance, new arrival procedures and other techniques, a

ENVIRONMENTAL

FuelvoicesIntentions

Captain Joe Burns, left, reviews a ﬂight plan with Captain Lester Tom to look for additional efﬁciencies.

Over the years, United has led the charge to reduce fuel burn and emissions. It is a strong advocate for moving to the next generation air transportation system or “NextGen.” This project would modernize the nation’s current ground-based air traffic control system using stateof-the-art satellite technologies and procedural innovations under the direction of the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA).

“We prefer to call it ‘NowGen,’” Burns says, “because the need is now, not later.”

CAPTAIN JOE BURNS, UNITED’S MANAGING DIRECTOR, TECHNOLOGY AND FLIGHT TEST, HELPS INCREASE THE ENERGY EFFICIENCY—AND REDUCE THE FOOTPRINT—OF UNITED’S FLEET. BY ROD O’CONNOR

SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPHS

In fact, modernization is one of the biggest single issues for the airline industry today, and with strong support from the FAA and Congress, the project could be accelerated to reduce delays, improve fuel efficiency and ultimately lower emissions by about 12 percent.

PERHAPS NO OTHER industry is more motivated to increase efficiency than commercial aviation. With fuel by far the industry’s largest expense and the environment a top concern, airlines have every incentive to operate cleaner andConsidergreener.how the volatility of fuel prices has impacted aviation’s No. 1 cost: While airlines used the same amount of fuel in 2008 as they did in 2003, the total bill was $42 billion higher due to priceThevolatility.goodnews, despite dramatic price increases and continued volatility, is that the industry is taking advantage of the latest technological advances. As a result, airlines are more than twice as efficient today—with the ability to carry passengers and cargo twice as far on a gallon of jet fuel—as they were in the late 1970s.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

“That’s a big deal,” says Captain Joe Burns, United’s Managing Director, Technology and Flight Test. “And within United and throughout the industry, we are always looking for ways we can get even better.”

One of the technology programs

16 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM

Later this month, United will participate in the Green Corridor program to demonstrate and analyze environmental benefits over the North Atlantic using the latest operational and technological advancements—the only U.S. airline selected to do so. United is also cutting emissions through the use of plane winglets, devices which extend the wings’ surface to cut down on induced drag. The company’s Boeing 747s and Airbus fleets already have winglets or wingtip fins, and the Boeing 757s are being modified to include the technology as well. Making these efficiencies a reality has required an investment in technology both in the cockpit and on the ground, including new flight management systems and upgrades to GPS, or global positioning systems. It’s up to Burns and his flight test team to help design and acquire this new whiz-bang technology, while ops performance staff tracks and monitors to ensure the real efficiency gains are achieved. A technology enthusiast, Burns holds an undergraduate engineering degree and a M.B.A. in management from Miami University in Oxford, Ohio. He’s also a pilot on the Airbus 319/320 aircraft. “I’m an engineer who loves to fly airplanes,” he says. “It’s my job, and that of every every United employee, to get our customers to their destinations safely and on time, and to do so in the most efficient way possible.”

Yet, despite an adequate supply of oil and decreasing demand, prices are going up, not down, and many economic experts and government and industry ofﬁcials point to excessive speculation as a leading cause. You can help make a difference in keeping energy prices affordable. Ask Congress to curb oil speculation by closing regulatory loopholes, increasing market transparency and requiring strict limits on trading. To lower oil prices for all Americans, we need to increase domestic supply, exploration, alternative energy sources and conservation. Please visit stopoilspeculationnow.com for more information.

Stop Oil Speculation to Protect America’s Economic Recovery

“Safety is ﬁrst and foremost in everything we do,” says Burns. “And the next generation technologies and systems we have in place today, and are supporting going forward, have the potential to make our operation and the air traffic control system safer for our customers and our employees.”

Another major part of the puzzle is the development of viable alternative fuels. On this front, United is pursuing multiple solutions. The airline is already using biodiesel fuel in its ground support equipment at several airports and is looking to purchase synthetic fuel and biofuel for use in aircraft beginning in 2012. The biggest impact on the company’s long-term fuel agenda will come from United’s recently announced purchase of 25 new 787-8 Dreamliner aircraft from Boeing. With an expected delivery between 2016 and 2019, at the same time United retires its international Boeing 747s and 767s, this investment will bring technology advances that can reduce fuel burn and emissions by up to 33 percent per aircraft.

ACCORDING TO DATA from the Energy Information Administration, demand for petroleum products in the United States is lower today than it was 10 years ago, and supply is higher today than it was in 1982. In addition, the International Energy Agency recently predicted that global demand for oil will drop by about 2.5 million barrels a day this year compared to last year.

While in the air, ADS-B allows pilots and air traffic controllers to “see” and direct aircraft with more precision than ever before. “Right now, planes have to stay on the same pathways,” Burns explains. “But this technology allows the pilot and the dispatch team to see where the traffic is and make decisions in the air based on optimal ﬂight paths.”

single test flight from Sydney to San Francisco—a joint program with the FAA—saved 1,564 gallons of fuel and 32,656 pounds of carbon emissions. Many of the procedures showcased during that flight are currently in use by United, including Tailored Arrivals, which generate fuel savings through an idled, continuous descent during landings. “A jet burns a lot of fuel during descent, so fuel usage is significantly reduced by turning the landing into a continuous glide toward descent instead of a series of graduated steps,” Burns explains. “You get a more efficient and quieter arrival.”

Burns is most excited about is Automatic Dependent Surveillance-Broadcast (ADS-B), a replacementNextGen-endorsedforconventional radar.

Next generation technologies have the potential to make our operation and the air trafﬁc control system that much safer for our customers and our employees.

United pilots and dispatchers now go through fuel-efficiency training, studying the new technologies, and adopting new practices—taxiing the runway on one engine instead of two, for instance, and using less fuel on the ground by taking advantage of electricity at the gates—that can make a big difference.

Not only is optimal aircraft routing achieved, fuel burn is reduced as a result, and ﬂight delays are, too.

voices

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APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM 18 connections THROUGHOUT February and March, United employees have been busy ﬂying miles and miles to deliver bear hugs and smiles to kids with cancer. Late last year, when customers donated at least 7,500 Mileage Plus miles or $50 to the American Cancer Society, United committed to delivering an adorably soft custom-made GUND® teddy bear named Holden Hugyou to children undergoing cancer treatment in cities across the country. For the past three years, the program has raised more than 125 million Mileage Plus miles and $460,000. The donated miles will provide ﬂights to individuals and caregivers who need to travel for treatment, and the money raised helps support the American Cancer Society’s mission.

TOP: United Customer Service Representative Perpetual Rodrigues brings joy to a child and her mother at Children’s Memorial Hospital in Chicago.

SmilesBear-yDeliveringBig

UNITED AIRLINES EMPLOYEES DELIVER TEDDY BEARS TO KIDS ACROSS THE COUNTRY.

BOTTOM: United Mechanic Jim Kelly shares a smile with a child at the University of California—San Francisco Children’s Hospital.

MIDDLE (L-R): United Ramp Serviceman George Geha, Captain Tony Lee and Flight Attendant Lisa Maher make it a special afternoon at the University of California—Los Angeles Mattel Children’s Hospital.

For questions or help, visit umskincancer.org or call 1-877-308-9111.

Skin cancer treatment that’s worth the trip.

University of Michigan Health System has made the U.S. News Honor Roll for 15 consecutive years.

When Jim, a resident of Laurens, South Carolina, was diagnosed with melanoma, his doctors told him he had to get to the University of Michigan. As the leaders and best in the treatment of melanoma and other forms of skin cancer, Jim found the team at U-M to be everything he was told and more. From experienced specialists all in one place to the coordination of seamless appointments and travel to Ann Arbor, Jim can’t imagine being better taken care of anywhere else. That’s the Michigan Difference.

HAIL TO THE VICTORS VALIANT.

wish you were here APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM 20

SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND // PHOTOGRAPH BY STEPHAN SCHACHER LONG AND WINDING ROAD // Lindis Pass weaves its way through the island’s Southern Alps.STOCKGALLERY

ONE WINTER MORNING, a hiker in the southwest of England following the peaceful River Tamar came upon a tree stump bearing huge toothmarks, as though someone with an adz had scooped the wood out of it. Farther along the path, he found a stand of trees with chunks of bark stripped away. “I thought it was a crazed lumberjack,” the hiker, a local man, says. “It looked mechanical.”

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

Enter an environmentalist named Derek Gow, one of just a handful of licensed owners of European beaver in England. For years, Gow had kept three of them in a ﬁeld enclosed by an electric fence, but as Dewsnap soon learned, after a rainstorm shorted out the fence in the fall of 2008, all three of them escaped. Within days Gow had caught two, but the third beaver—the behemoth—remained at large, so to speak.

The big beaver’s escape created an overnight sensation throughout the hinterlands of Devon. Residents were worried that he was dangerous, that he’d lay waste to groves of trees.

ELIZABETH ARMSTRONG HALL At Large Devon, England A GIANT BEAVER IS ON THE LOOSE IN GREAT BRITAIN.

Gow has tracked the beaver as he’s traveled to the River Tavy, near Tavistock, 15 miles from his original base. “He’s tough, but he’s harmless,” says Gow. “Just doing what beavers do: living off wild herbs and grasses. I’ll get him. Don’t you worry about that.”

After some investigation, it was discovered that the “lumberjack” was a 95-pound male beaver, which is strange for two reasons. First, although the toothy rodents were once hunted in England for their meat, soft undercoat and scent glands, they disappeared from the isles more than 400 years ago. Second, that’s one big beaver.

So how did it end up here, on the Tamar? And how did it become the size of a St. Bernard?

ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU 23 NOTES FROM ALL OVER dispatches

“There are only a few of the larger buildings that actually will be moved,” says Anders Enquist, a technical director with WSP Construction Design, which has been contracted to assist. Others will simply be rebuilt from scratch. LKAB is picking up the tab, which is said to be more than $1 billion. (The Ice Hotel will likely move as well.)

The 24,000 residents of Kiruna—the northernmost city in Sweden and home to both a booming iron ore industry and the annually rebuilt Ice Hotel— are a pretty laid back sort. In fact, they’ve always called themselves the “No-Problem People,” which may seem a little ironic, because they actually have a pretty darn big problem: The earth beneath the village is crisscrossed by mineshafts that have recently become unstable. The townspeople are still calmly going about their business, though—much of which now involves picking up and moving the town three miles.

Scientists from the national mining company, Luossavaara-Kirunavaara AB (LKAB), ﬁrst discovered there was a problem in 2004, when they informed Vice Mayor Hans Swedell that cracks were forming in a mineshaft some 2,000 feet beneath the town. “They said that the ground could collapse very soon,” Swedell says. For local ofﬁcials, it wasn’t much of a decision: They had to move Kiruna. This is no minor undertaking: Railroads, streets, water, sewage, electricity, power, telecommunications, schools and hospitals are being relaid and rebuilt, while most of the homes, including classic Falu red cottages, will be uprooted whole and trucked to new locations. Larger buildings, such as the iconic NeoGothic wooden church, Kiruna Kyrka, and the city hall, will have to be transported in pieces.

24 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM dispatches

On the mezzanine ﬂoor of an upscale shopping mall in Istanbul, a number of objects displayed atop boxy white platforms are tugging at the emotions of passersby. There’s a pair of pink fuzzy handcuffs, an old Nokia cell phone, and an unopened bottle of Pommery champagne. On the surface, they are seemingly random artifacts of contemporary life. A closer inspection reveals something powerful linking them: They are all the unwanted souvenirs of love gone bad. The champagne, for example, as we’re told by an accompanying text, was meant to be opened on a one-year anniversary. Instead, its contents have gone ﬂat—much like the relationship it was meant to Thecelebrate.Museum of Broken Relationships is a traveling exhibit of the detritus that remains when lovers part ways. For the donors—an assortment of lonely hearts from all corners of the world—these items are too painful to keep, but they’re too valuable to just toss into the“Whengarbage.they give us their objects and their stories, they kind of let it go,” says Croatian artist Olinka Vistica, who founded the museum with her exboyfriend Drazen Grubisic, who’s also an artist. “And because they are exhibited with other peoples’ stories, they feel like, ‘Okay, I’m not alone.’ There’s also a positive feeling from knowing other people are going to get well through your story. “I like to think our museum keeps past loves eternal,” adds Vistica. “And at the same time gives us freedom from them.” Like a lover’s wandering eye, the Museum of Broken Relationships will travel: This spring it stops in Bloomington, Indiana, and St. Louis.

JORDAN HELLER

The residents are taking it in stride. Most are miners, and they have reaped the economic beneﬁts of the iron ore for generations. “This is no problem,” says Swedell. “We’re the No-Problem People, haven’t you heard?” —LOLA AKINMADE Moving Day Kiruna, Sweden Istanbul CRAZY HEART

HeartAmericanBlood.Italian info@svmotorcompany.com984-0411(415)

Here’s how it works: The 12 ﬁnalists have ﬁve and a half hours to prepare a salmon and a lamb dish with accompanying garnishes. The judges scrutinize each chef for technique and temperament. In the end, James Kent of Manhattan’s Eleven Madison Park wins the day with his bacon-wrapped lamb saddle with piquillo peppers and Provençal herbs. Although the onlookers don’t actually get to sample the dish, it’s a feast for the eyes.

dispatchesHundredsofavidsupporters

It sounds a little like rain, the endless clatter of keystrokes coming from a conference room at Carnegie Mellon’s Jam,secondDenmarkadevelopersolder—aremaleaﬁwithinSoda,andTetristryingat16TechnologyEntertainmentCenter.Inside,gamedevelopersstaretheircomputerscreens,tocreatethenextorSpaceInvaders—todoitinjust48hours.coffeeandfruitareeasyreach.Thesegame-designcionados—mostofthemandcollege-ageandamongthe4,333assembledinslewoflocationsfromtoIndiafortheannualGlobalGameaneventorganized by the International Game Developers Association during which designers, programmers and artists team up to build new video games in caffeinated marathon sessions. This year, 929 games are being created, an increase of almost 250 percent over last year. (Among the favorites: Mr. Mask, Punk Skunk and Kawaii Maximum Overkill, all of which can be downloaded for free at globalgamejam.org.)Withblockbusters like Halo 3 costing an estimated $30 million to produce, publishers aren’t keen on taking big risks, so the Game Jam ﬁlls an important role as a breeding ground for new ideas. “No toy company is paying you to do what you do, so you’re not beholden to other people,” explains 30-year-old Rob Gordon, game designer for Ship Sweepers of Spain. “It’s just you and your teammates.”Thoughoperating on just an hour of sleep, 22-yearold Tedo Salim is avidly tweaking the code for One Ninja. “At, like, two or three a.m., you get that feeling in your stomach when your body thinks you should be sleeping,” he says, “yet you still just code away!”

Captain Cook Hyde Park, New York Pittsburgh CODE OF HONOR

CARREN JAO

“Taste, of course, is very important,” says Kent, wiping his hands on an apron afterward. “But the platters must be visually stunning to be able to compete and win in Lyon.”

One result of his victory is that he will train under Keller and Boulud. It’s a long road to France. “I know we have a hard slog ahead of us,” he says. “But with the right training regimen, and enough supporters, I’ll reach the podium in Lyon.”—MATT BERKMAN

26 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM

are packed into viewing galleries above the test kitchens at The Culinary Institute of America. As AC/DC’s “Back in Black” blares from the loudspeakers, 12 competing chefs toil below. The atmosphere is tense but jubilant, with sections of the crowd chanting the names of the competitors.

The judges are a panel of gastronomic luminaries including Daniel Boulud, Thomas Keller and Jerome Bocuse (scion of the contest’s namesake), and they sit before an electriﬁed throng of white-jacketed culinary students and laymen foodies, some of whom are pounding ladles against pots in displays of competitive exuberance.

Suddenly, Top Chef Season 3 winner Hung Huynh enters the gallery, and spectators swarm him with camera phones. This isn’t Top Chef or The Iron Chef or any sort of TV show, but the qualifying round of the contest that inspired them both: the Bocuse d’Or World Culinary Competition, the Olympic Games of upscale cookery, which will take place next January in Lyon, France.

Introducing daily nonstops to Brussels from Chicago O’Hare. Starting March 28, 2010, United will begin nonstop service from Chicago to Brussels, Belgium: the capital of the European Union, and a hub of international banking and fi nance. The 767s fl ying this route will feature our new fi rst and business class cabins, with true 180° fl at bed seats, personal entertainment centers, and more. For information, visit united.com/brussels .

A nonstop way to do business in Brussels. Air Lines, Inc.

THEDISCOVERBEAUTY

Ministry of Culture and Tourism l Greek National Tourism Organization www.visitgreece.gr Kledonia, Epirus Mani area Alfeios river Parga

Touring Greece from North to South, milestones are set by emotion-stirring locations, thrilling landscapes and ecosystems, rending the entire trip unforgettable. Modern Greece invites travelers to challenge themselves and experience all it has to offer with a single goal in mind: tour around each and every site and fall in love with its unmatched natural beauty.

ouring Greece is a unique journey full of adventures and knowledge. A road where the quintessence of adventure lies within the exploration, where the evergreen vista of imposing mountains blends harmonically with the vast, deep blue seas, to portray the versatile mosaic, Greece. Challenges vary. Ascending on green mountains, exploring the sublime caves, sailing the historic greek seas with their friendly harbours and the indigo beaches, descending frozen rivers… Even greater knowledge is gained through encountering regional fauna and visiting precious biotopes and national eco-parks, as well as traditional settlements that conceal a long-lived history and a profound continuation of old greek morals and customs. Vivid colours and breathtaking images accompany every journey, whilst sounds and fragrances conveying Greece, stay in the memory for ever…. How can one resist the magic of a crimson sun-setting sky, when the sun dives into the emerald sea of the mysterious hazy atmosphere that dominates at sunrise on a steep frozen greek mountain peak? The scent of pine-trees, olives and oaks, the upstanding ﬂying of seagulls, the gurgle of ice-cold water from the wellsprings of a mountain village and the odor of home-made, traditional pies stimulate all senses.

SPOTLIGHTGOLF

The Half Moon Bay Golf Links are home to a stately, luxurious Ritz hotel overlooking the roaring Paciﬁc Ocean, and two courses—most notably the newly retooled, links-style Ocean Course, which winds along the stunning coastal bluffs 40 miles south of San Fran. The best part? Unlike nearby Pebble Beach, it’s public, so anyone can play it. halfmoonbaygolf.com

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010 29 WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GOnews MARVINBLAKEBYPHOTOGRAPH directions

Howl at the Moon

STORY TIME // The days of the family piling into the station wagon for vacation may seem long gone—it’s so easy now to hop on a plane—but we think the stories those old trips resulted in are timeless. NPR agrees. The NPR Road Trips: Family Vacation audiobook, which is being released this month, will inspire nostalgia and, possibly, some serious wanderlust. highbridgeaudio.com 11-25 SINGAPORE // Sit down for dinner with Michelinstarred chefs from around the globe at the World Gourmet Summit. worldgourmetsummit.com 16-18 ST. GEORGE, SOUTH CAROLINA // You’ll need determination and, um, grit to make it through the 25th annual World Grits Festival. worldgritsfestival.com 16-21 ROME // You haven’t stumbled into a toga party—it’s a celebration of the city’s founding in 753 B.C., which is, quite frankly, a lot more fun. gsr-roma.com

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MEXICAN DREAM // You’ll find 22 acres of lush plants, waving palms and pure luxury at the brand new St. Regis Punta de Mita, built on the tip of a secluded peninsula. It’s just 20 miles from the Puerto Vallarta airport, five miles from the funky surfing town of Sayulita, and—after some tennis on one of its grass courts and a rubdown at the Remede Spa—as close to bliss as you can get. starwoodhotels.com/stregis

30 APRILCALENDAR

SPOTLIGHTHOTEL

CHEERS! // Raise a glass to Earth Day with VeeV Açai Spirits. Their Treetini program kicks off on April 22 at venues including Abe & Arthur’s in New York, Eve in Chicago, Shanghai 1930 in San Francisco, Blue Velvet in Los Angeles and Bar Louie in Las Vegas. Each location will create its own cocktails with VeeV, and the proceeds will go to planting trees—10,000 this month. That’s an idea we can drink to. treetini.com.

New. Our best headphones. Since we introduced the world’s first noise cancelling headphones over 20 years ago, we have conducted continuous research to improve this technology. Now, we have engineered significant advances in noise reduction to make the QC®15 headphones our quietest ever. Exclusive Bose technologies electronically sense more of the sounds around you, reducing more noise across a wider range of frequencies. And we didn’t stop there. We developed a new ear cushion that further reduces unwanted noise and helps create an extremely comfortable fit. It works in harmony with the electronics to deliver a better listening experience. Mark A. Kellner of The Washington Times says they “reproduce music with extreme clarity, fidelity and definition.” Try them for yourself risk free. When you fly, the engine roar fades even further away. When you listen to music at home or at work, fewer distractions get in the way. Less noise, along with our acclaimed lifelike sound, a fit that stays comfortable for hours and the quality you expect from Bose. It all adds up to a combination of benefits unmatched in the industry. Seth Porges of Popular Mechanics states that “Compared to the competition…the QC15s are vastly superior.” You can relax and appreciate music, movies or just some serenity more than ever before. We invite you to try QC15 headphones for yourself risk free for 30 days. And when you call, ask about making 12 easy payments, with no interest charges from Bose.*

Welcome to an even quieter world. Earn 1,200 United Mileage Plus® miles from Bose when you order QuietComfort 15 headphones by April 30, 2010. To order or learn more: 1-800-404-2073, ext. Q7817 or visit Bose.com/UA

Introducing Bose® QuietComfort® 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling® headphones.

*Bose payment plan available on orders of $299-$1500 paid by major credit card. Separate financing offers may be available for select products. See website for details. Down payment is 1/12 the product price plus applicable tax and shipping charges, charged when your order is shipped. Then, your credit card will be billed for 11 equal monthly installments beginning approximately one month from the date your order is shipped, with 0% APR and no interest charges from Bose. Credit card rules and interest may apply. U.S. residents only. Limit one active financing program per customer. ©2010 Bose Corporation. Patent rights issued and/or pending. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing and Mileage Plus® bonus miles offer not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. Offer valid 4/1/10-4/30/10. Purchasers must use the phone number or website above to receive this offer. Risk free refers to 30-day trial only and does not include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. Mileage Plus offer valid only on product advertised. The 1,200 miles for above Bose product advertised are awarded in place of the standard Bose offer. If a different product is purchased, the standard offer of 2 Mileage Plus miles for every U.S. dollar spent will be honored. Miles accrued and awards issued are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus® program. United, its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies or partners. Please allow 6 to 8 weeks after completed qualifying activity for bonus miles to be posted to your Mileage Plus account. Bonus miles and miles earned through non-flight activity do not count toward elite status. Bonus mile offers are subject to change without notice. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United may change Mileage Plus Program rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the Mileage Plus program at any time and without notice. Mileage Plus participation may not be permitted in some countries. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. Quotes reprinted with permission. C_008472

Quieter than ever before.

APRIL 2010 32

KNOXVILLE, TENNESSEE // Earth Day turns 40 this year, and this event walks the walk by being completely waste-free. knox-earthfest.org 22-25 LOS ANGELES // Mel Brooks will ﬁnally get a Hollywood star, while oldies such as 2001: A Space Odyssey unspool at the TCM Classic Film Festival. tcm.com 23-MAY 2 NEW ORLEANS // Give your iPod a vacation and take in some live jazz, blues, R&B, zydeco, gospel and rock at the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival. nojazzfest.com 6-9

THE NOSE KNOWS // If there’s a better place to learn about perfume than a ﬂower garden, we can’t think of one. This month, horticultural center Longwood Gardens in Kennet Pennsylvania,Square,rolls out “Making Scents: The Art and Passion of Fragrance,” to the delight of olfactory aﬁcionados everywhere. longwoodgardens.org

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HITTING ALL THE RIGHT NOTES // From the ﬁddle to Auto-Tune, there are numerous ways to make music. The Musical Instrument Museum, opening in Phoenix this month, will showcase all of them. Make a night of it and catch a show in the museum’s concert hall—it’s instrumental to getting the full experience. themim.org

APRILCALENDAR

NEW YORK // Still can’t afford an original Warhol? Not to worry. Find a tasteful alternative at the Affordable Art Fair. aafnyc.com

SHOWTIME AT THE APOLLO You can’t go back in time to see Ella Fitzgerald’s debut during amateur night at New York City’s Apollo Theater, nor can you catch a nine-year-old Michael Jackson performing with the Jackson Five. But you can relive the magic at the new Smithsonian exhibit “Ain’t Nothing Like the Real Thing: How the Apollo Theater Shaped openingEntertainment,”AmericanApril23. si.edu

Palm Tree Pendant with Diamonds$399 Matching Earrings available from $429 Available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold Chain additional OAHU: Ala Moana Center Waikiki Beachwalk Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center Lahaina Cannery The Shops at Wailea Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) Hyatt Regency Maui Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace Kings’ Shops Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

Sit back. Relax. And enjoy triple miles. Visit united.com/hem or call 800-298-6873 to apply or learn more about our new family of cards. Offer Code: CQCP Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Annual credit card fee applies. United Mileage Plus Visa credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. See www.united.com/hem for pricing and rewards details. Print Date: 12/09 PH_31803 Introducing the Mileage Plus ® Select Visa ®. The only card that offers you triple miles on United purchases— and a whole lot more.

• After surgery, Matthews became a chronic pain sufferer herself. When she adopted a miniature horse named Toby, he did so much to lift her spirits and get her up and moving again that she decided to share what she’d learned. “One story that sticks with me is a couple who came out with their four-year-old. He had some level of autism, I think, but I never ask. They wanted him to experience horses. And all of a sudden his parents said, ‘Oh my God, he made a facial expression!’ It’s hard to imagine, but they had never seen him do that before.”

FAVORITE SHOPPING BUDDY • “When I’m training new miniature horses, I take them to a big pet store, and that’s how they learn to be around a lot of people.” Go to heartsandhooves.org for more info.

ddispatchesispatches HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010 35

MOTIVATION

WHO • VERONIQUE MATTHEWS MISSION • Matthews delivers “equine therapy,” a well-established if little-known therapeutic speciality, to children, the elderly, chronic pain sufferers and people with Alzheimer’s, among others. She says being around the animals helps her patients overcome anxiety and trauma. While physical contact is often part of the treatment, she notes, “Our clients don’t need to touch the horses. Just looking at them can be enough.” Initially, she employed miniature horses; more recently, trained service dogs and full-size horses have become part of her treatment menagerie. Matthews works with facilities around Texas and has helped launch six similar programs throughout North America.

VERONIQUE MATTHEWS, FOUNDER OF THE NONPROFIT HEARTS & HOOVES, ENLISTS HORSES AND DOGS IN THE HEALING PROCESS. BY LAYLA SCHLACK // PHOTOGRAPH BY BLAKE GORDON A Natural Remedy hero

Walk down the Mall to the The National Archives (Constitution Ave. between 7th and 9th Sts. NW; archives. gov). Run inside and sneak a peek at the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution. Admire their splendor, but don’t strain your eyes; the words may be powerful but the text is downright unreadable. (2:30 )

Head across the Mall to one of the District’s premier spring offerings: the Cherry Blossom Festival (Tidal Basin and East Potomac orgnationalcherryblossomfestival.Park; ). You’ll have to ﬁght the crowds, but seeing these pink and white beauties in full bloom is well worth it. (3:15 )

Take a quick gander at the elegant World War II Memorial, then stroll past the White House (1600 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; whitehouse.gov). If you look hard enough you might spot Bo Obama digging holes in the Rose Garden. (3:45 ) Take a break from all this history at the ultramodern Point of View bar, situated on the roof of the W Hotel (515 15th St. NW; starwoodhotels. com). Sip a fancy cocktail in a cushy chair while taking in the most impressive view of the city and the power players who run it. (4:40 )

BOARDING PASS

Arrive hungry at Ben’s Chili Bowl (1213 U St. NW; benschilibowl.com), a veritable D.C. institution (its owners were inducted into the city’s Hall of Fame) best known for its heavenly chili dogs and french fries drenched in cheese. (0:25) Walk off the calories on 14th Street, an up-and-coming shopping district full of charming storefronts. Grab an off-beat (or perhaps off-color) souvenir at quirky gift shop Pulp, and then poke through the antique housewares at Miss Pixie’s (1626 14th St. NW; misspixies.com). Perhaps an Eisenhower-era credenza will catch your eye. (1:10 ) Visit commanders in chief of years past at the National Portrait Gallery (800 F St. NW; npg.si.edu). If you prefer kings to presidents, you’re in luck—there’s an exhibit on Elvis, too. (1:55 )

It’s not always politics in the U.S. capitol, and United makes it easy to enjoy D.C.’s state buildings, monuments and museums with 300 daily departures from Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD). Fly United into IAD or Reagan National Airport and enjoy a visit to the nation’s showcase city.

On your way out of town, ask your cabbie to drive past the Lincoln Memorial (Lincoln Memorial Cir SW; nps. gov/linc). When the sun is down, this already majestic monument is lit up by ﬂoodlights, rendering Honest Abe’s dour mug even more striking than usual. (5:00 )

(transferus rapidus) 5 Gb/s Maximum Strength Hello SuperSpeed USB Sluggomorbus strikes when slow transfer rates make you wait for photos to upload, ﬁles to copy and devices to sync. Symptoms include: lack of patience, falling asleep, transfer rage, irritability, toe tapping and obscene gestures. SuperSpeed USB has the ability to work 10x faster than Hi-Speed USB, allowing you to transfer much more in a much shorter amount of time. Using SuperSpeed USB, you will be feeling like your old self in no time at all. For more information, visit www.usb.org WARNING: SuperSpeed USB could result in: disbelief, awe, spontaneous celebration, shock, speechlessness and arriving on time to presentations. Before Treatment After Treatment 200%Symptoms!Fewer SluggomorbusDaysSymptomsAskOccurrences your retailer if SuperSpeed USB is right for you. Brought to you by USB Implementers Forum. ©2010 USB-IF. Sluggomorbus Good-bye

READ ON Alex eReader / $400 springdesign.com First Amazon released the Kindle. Then Barnes & Noble trotted out the Nook. Now Borders unveils the Alex, which takes e-readers to the next level. Like its predecessors, the Alex has an electronic paper screen, but unlike the Kindle and Nook, it also has an LCD touchscreen that runs Google Android software. Along with the regular e-book reading capabilities, the Alex uses a 3G connection or Wi-Fi to visit websites on the bottom and then push the text to the top, making everything easier on the eyes. E-READER. K. JOHN LAWTON

DOUBLE YOUR E-PLEASURE WITH THE DUAL-SCREEN ALEX

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39 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

40 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM goods 1. POCKET PROTECTOR The 19 pockets in the SCOTTEVEST Soft Shell jacket will seem like overkill until you try it on and realize you’ll never need a briefcase again. / $175 / scottevest.com 2. IN THE CLUB If Callaway’s FT-iZ driver were any bigger, it might completely destroy your golf ball. As it is, it will just destroy your competition. / $400 / callawaygolf.com 3. CARRY ON With its numerous club holders, crush resistant pockets and magnetic ball storage, Datrek’s cutting-edge Assault bag is what James Bond would carry if he had time to play golf. / $180 / dynamicbrands.com 4. SUPER BOWL The CaliBowl may not “revolutionize cooking and eating forever,” as its maker claims, but it will help prevent spills, and that’s something we can get behind. / 3 for $50 / calibowl.com 5. FINE PRINT The Pandigital Portable Printer needs no ink (it uses special paper) and no computer (it connects directly to a camera). The picturetaking is up to you. / $130 / pandigital.net 3 4 2 5 1

A TOOL WE CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT

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The FAST FASHION GIANT H&M IS MAKING ITSELF COMFORTABLE IN THE WORLD OF HOME DÉCOR.

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style HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010 43culture

IT’S EASY TO ENVY THE SWEDES, with their crime writers, mini meatballs and catchy pop tunes. Now there’s another reason to see green, as the country’s famed retailer H&M introduces its premiere home collection, a bid to give the modish management at Ikea a run for theirH&Mkrona.Home launches its spring line of textiles and soft accessories featuring a pop-inspired aesthetic— think psychedelic pillows depicting Viking princesses, paint-splattered duvet covers and graphic throw blankets. “We want to show people that an item doesn’t have to be expensive or dramatic to change your home,” says Evelina Kravaev Söderberg, H&M Home’s design chief. The bad news? So far the linens are available only online in Sweden and its Nordic neighbors (plus Germany, Austria and the Netherlands). Though the fashion brand is known for its attention-grabbing designer collaborations (it’s worked with Karl Lagerfeld and Sonia Rykiel, among others), this time H&M is taking a humbler approach, tiptoeing into the realm of home décor with nary an international creative director or champagne-fueled debut bash. Nonetheless, the jawdropping prices (4.90 to 49.90 euros, or around $6.50–$68, for everything from candy-striped cushion covers to organic cotton bed sets), are earning the company plaudits from design-hungry bloggers around the globe. The response has been so strong the products are already slated to expand to the U.K. come autumn. Just in time for Brits to curl up under the covers and hibernate. There’s still no word on when the line will be available in the U.S., but you may want to start ﬂuffing your pillows just in case.

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Come Fly Away, a musical set to the songs of Frank Sinatra and directed and choreographed by Twyla Tharp, makes its Broadway debut on March 25.

“I’ve always had a strong connection to New York because back in the sixties, when I started out, it was the only place a woman could make a living as a dancer. I recently visited the Cloisters, and I go to the museums as often as possible—from the Morgan Library to the Frick Collection, the Pratt Manhattan Gallery, the Whitney... They’re all pretty spectacular.

“City Center is probably my favorite performance space. One of the ﬁrst pieces I choreographed, Deuce Coupe, showed there, so I’m sentimental about it. The whole experience was very exciting, and it is a nice theater. I also love the Delacorte in Central Park. It’s free, which I think is important, because it means more people can see the shows, and it’s wonderful to be outside.

“I don’t go out to eat much, but I celebrated my birthday last year at Ouest, and it was great. The dessert was so good that I actually ate dessert!”

The Places I Go: Twyla Tharp whereabouts

CULTURE | APRIL 2010 SYNDICATIONPARRY/CPINIGELBYPHOTOGRAPH

MANDELA’S WAY: FIFTEEN LESSONS ON LIFE, LOVE AND COURAGE Time editor Richard Stengel, who worked with Nelson Mandela on his autobiography, offers a thoughtful collection of inspirational wisdom based on Mandela’s extraordinary journey.

ALSO THIS MONTH

46 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM

BRUCE FEILER—whose books have recounted his adventures teaching in Japan, joining the circus and, in the best-selling Walking the Bible, retracing the steps of Abraham, Moses and other ﬁgures from scripture—likes to call himself an “experientialist.” But the experience recounted in his slim but moving new book, The Council of Dads: My Daughters, My Illness, and the Men Who Could Be Me, is one you wouldn’t wish on your worst enemy. In July 2008, Feiler, an inveterate walker and world traveler in his mid40s (“I’ve sprained my ankle on six continents,” he says), was diagnosed with a rare form of cancer in his leg. Suddenly fearing he might not have long to live, the father of then-two-yearold twin daughters Tybee and Eden hit upon a unique plan: Like Danny Ocean assembling his perfect heist squad, Feiler would enlist six men, reﬂecting various aspects of his own personality, as his stand-ins. The hope, he writes, was that “together, collectively, they might help father my potentially fatherless daughters.”

What else to read on the go in April

WHEN BRUCE FEILER WAS DIAGNOSED WITH A RARE FORM OF CANCER, HE MADE SURE HIS LITTLE GIRLS WOULDN’T LACK FOR A FATHER FIGURE. // BY AARON GELL

Interestingly, the result turns out to have less to do with disease than with life itself. While women will undoubtedly ﬁnd the book fascinating for the light it casts on the vagaries of the male mind, men will almost certainly be moved to reexamine their own roles as fathers and as friends.

PARROT & OLIVIER IN AMERICA Australian novelist Peter Carey (Oscar and Lucinda) delivers a coming-of-age tale based loosely on the life of French historian Alexis de Tocqueville— and with it, an extended examination of the evolution of American political life.

Paternal Instincts

The resulting book is a stirring hybrid: a memoir of Feiler’s cancer treatment coupled with a heartfelt meditation on parenthood, masculinity and living life to its fullest. Combining a chronicle of what he calls his “lost year” (including months of chemo and a 15-hour surgery) with portraits of Feiler’s own father ﬁgures and his Council of Dads, it’s honest, heartfelt and exceedingly raw. The book’s power comes in part from Feiler’s willingness to delve into emotions—including feelings of tenderness not only for our children and spouses but between male friends—that aren’t often spoken of with such candor. “There I am with no hair, a scar from here to here, talking to my friends,” the author explains, sitting with a cane in the Brooklyn, New York, apartment he shares with his wife, Linda Rottenberg, and the girls, surrounded by art collected during his years of globe-trotting. “The experience forced me to drop the normal trappings of contemporary life—vanity, pretense, ambition. It was very clarifying. I was still in the twilight of that feeling when I sat down to write the book. I just didn’t care. And it poured off my ﬁngers.”

PUBLISHERSCOLLINSHARPEROFHIKE/COURTESYKELLYBYPHOTOGRAPH

“I didn’t set out to write a book about being male in America,” Feiler says, “but people keep telling me that’s what I did.”

On the phone from his California home, a few days before heading back out on the endless road, the 73-year-old singer explains that the song represents something of a disappointed farewell to his political commentary. “I’m gonna let the younger people do the criticizing,” he says, “and I’ll take a look at the bigger picture and write about that.”

“It gives me a reason to wake up every morning,” he adds, “to know there’s some kid out there that’s going to discover my music today.”

MORRISON/RETNAMARCBYPHOTOGRAPH AT 73, OUTLAW COUNTRY MUSIC LEGEND MERLE HAGGARD IS WINNING A NEW GENERATION OF FANS. // BY ALAN LIGHT The Fugitive sound

ALAN LIGHT , former editor-in-chief of Spin and Vibe, has a seven-year-old son who’s also fond of guitars and trains.

“EVER SINCE I WAS a very young boy, I always enjoyed trying to put thoughts into rhythm and rhyme,” says Merle Haggard. “I do it for fun. I don’t put pressure on myself—I don’t sit down and say, ‘Okay, now I’m gonna write a classic!’”Whatever his technique, over the course of his 50-plus-year career, Haggard has consistently created some of the greatest songs in country music history, including such masterpieces as “Mama Tried,” “Sing Me Back Home,” “Hungry Eyes” and of course that ballad of jet-age yearning “Silver Wings.” His new album, I Am What I Am (Vanguard Records), is his 75th, give or take, and demonstrates that the Country Music Hall of Famer still has a sound and a story that’s all hisTheown.record—his ﬁrst collection of all-new material in ﬁve years— covers a wide and heartfelt emotional range, from Haggard’s earliest memories, on “Oil Tanker Train” up to “Mexican Band,” a raucous celebration of tequila. In recent years, the man behind “Okie from Muskogee” has gotten even more outspoken politically (increasingly liberal, he’s written songs protesting the Iraq War and supporting Hillary Clinton’s presidential run), and the album’s opening song, “I’ve Seen It Go Away,” presents a despairing look at today’s culture: “I’ve seen it all completely fall apart,” Haggard sings. “And I’ve seen our greatest leaders break their peoples’ heart.”

A knockout performance at last year’s Bonnaroo festival in rural Tennessee proved that yet another generation has embraced Haggard as the ultimate rebel—a sentiment expressed a few years ago by rising country star Eric Church in the song “Pledge Allegiance to the Hag.” The man behind 40 No. 1 hits on the country charts estimates that twothirds of his audience today is made up of younger fans and credits the internet with spreading the word. “We got off the bus the other day,” Haggard says with a laugh, “and this family was there with a little four-yearold girl. And I heard her say, ‘Is that the man who sings “Big City”?’ They told me they were at the show because she wanted to come.

If you had $25,000 in gold in 2001 at $290 per oz you would have almost $100,000 at today’s gold prices. These profit margins are unheard of in today’s volatile financial market. Experts say this is just the beginning. Gold last touched $850 an ounce on Jan. 21, 1980, just after the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan and the seizure of U.S. hostages in Iran. Inflation was running in the triple digits. In today’s terms, this would be equivalent to $2,000 an ounce suggesting the current nine year bull market has much further to run. With the Fed’s decision to print, print, print trillions of dollars Americans will soon see inflation like never before. With these current conditions we are pleased to provide special arrangements for orders of $25,000 and more. Numerous experts are now predicting gold at $5,000 an ounce your $25,000 could be worth $125,000 in the near future. Please understand that when you convert money to U.S. Government Gold you have not spent your money, but rather transferred its value from a declining paper currency, to a powerful asset providing a long term hedge against inflation. Smart investors are currently moving 25-30% of their paper assets into gold. Call today for the opportunity to turn your $25,000 into $125,000.

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DAVID SIMON, CREATOR OF THE WIRE, TURNS HIS ATTENTION FROM THE STREETS OF BALTIMORE TO THE MUSIC OF NEW ORLEANS. // BY LAYLA SCHLACK

Senior editor LAYLA SCHLACK is conducting an exhaustive study of Baltimore’s crabcake industry.

VOSS/REDUXSTEPHENBYPHOTOGRAPH

50 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM

All That Jazzvision

“In New Orleans, the good, the bad, everything’s completely intertwined,” he says. “Jazz and rock ‘n’ roll all came from this twelve-block area of Treme.” Though the city’s post-Katrina struggles loom large, music is at the show’s playednativeaWendellheart.Pierce,NewOrleanswhoBunkin The Wire, stars as a trombonist, and Wire alum Clarke Peters plays a Mardi Gras tourgingkreweIndianleaderresidentsreturnafter the hurricane. A number of musicians play themselves, and other characters are inspired by local faces. Though he doesn’t claim an intimate knowledge of the city, Simon admits feeling a profound responsibility to present an image residents would recognize. “This city is very sensitive,” he says. “If we get something wrong, they’re going to let us know.”

TV WRITER DAVID SIMON is not content to scratch the surface. That much was evident in The Wire, his acclaimed HBO series that ran for ﬁve seasons ending in 2008. Though often described as a crime drama, the show, set in Baltimore, was more like a kaleidoscopic sociological study, examining not only the city’s police department and drug gangs, but the municipal government, the school system, the newspaper and the harbor. The show’s granular detail sprang from Simon’s career as a police reporter for The Baltimore Sun. He’d lived in the city for decades and knew it inside andAlthoughout. his new show, the New Orleans–set Treme (pronounced Tre-MAY and premiering April 11 on HBO) keeps its focus on a single neighborhood and the jazz musicians who call the area home, Simon still ﬁnds plenty to explore.

Another contingent sure to be watching the premiere closely is rabid Wire fans—such as Variety’s longtime TV critic Brian Lowry, who called The Wire “one of the most demanding and thought-provoking series ever to grace television.” Nonetheless, Simon is wary of viewers’ elevated expectations. “This isn’t a story about crime or drugs,” he says. “This one’s about lives. We’re interested in the interaction between people and culture—music, art, dance and, yes, some politics.” Somehow, we doubt anyone will be disappointed with that.

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52 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM

FOR 80 YEARS, MERCEDES-BENZ HAS BEEN PRODUCING EXQUISITE DRIVING MACHINES. THEIR FIRST FORAY INTO THE FUTURE—THE S400 HYBRID—IS A LOOKER, BUT DOES IT BRING THE FUN? // BY MIKE GUY

Good Clean Fun wheels

I’M A HORSEPOWER FIEND. I like an engine that growls, a V-8, a V-12—you name it, as long as it’s fast. I’m attracted to the evil contours of the Murcielago and the impossibly fast-looking missile that is the Mercedes-Benz SLS. As such, I’ve always regarded the responsible hybrid the same way a jock would his clarinetplaying little brother. He’s a dork, but you love him. (Of course, I don’t own a car, and I played the French horn in high school.)Sowhen I drove the 2011 Mercedes S400 Hybrid from Miami to Delray Beach, I was torn. The Benz is a masterful machine—smooth and powerful, with precise steering, a world-class interior, top-notch Bose sound system and (let’s face it) devilmay-care fuel mileage. It would seem somehow shameful to cut the engine in half and toss in a battery that weighs as much as a motorcycle. But hybrids are the right thing to do. Lower emissions mean a more livable planet. Luckily, the S400 makes it easy. It’s the world’s first mass-produced vehicle with a lithium-ion battery, which is half as heavy and carries twice as much charge as the nickel-metal hydride battery you’ll find in the Honda Civic Hybrid and the Toyota Prius. I merge into traffic, and other luxury sedans crowd the road around me, but when I goose the throttle, the hybrid lunges forward, pinning me into the leather seat. I signal a turn and scream onto a sharp off-ramp. The S400 doesn’t flinch. Suddenly that horsepower fiend in me wakes up. When I get to the Seagate Hotel in Delray, I check the fuel mileage on the dashboard computer: 31 miles per gallon. In a Mercedes! I hand the keys to valet, who says, “Mercedes makes a hybrid?” “Yeah,” I respond. “But you’d never know it.” Executive editor MIKE GUY sees a bright future in lithium.

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But not everyone has. Take Florian Kaps, a self-described “crazy Austrian entrepreneur” who became a fervent Polaroid fanatic late in life, in 2004, when he used instant ﬁlm with a plastic Holga camera. He was so bewitched by the resulting images that he went home, Googled “Polaroid cameras” and stumbled upon an equally devoted fan base. Consisting of photographers, artists, archivists and hobbyists like Kaps, it communicates primarily (and somewhat ironically) by sharing scans of Polaroids on Flickr, the photo-sharing site launched at the height of the digital revolution. Participants gush over the images in the comments section. “It’s a liquidy,

MemoryPhotographicindustryAPRIL2010|UNITED.COM

AFTER POLAROID SHUT DOWN ITS INSTANT FILM FACTORIES, A MOTIVATED SUBCULTURE OF PHOTOGRAPHERS MIRACULOUSLY REVIVED A BELOVED BRAND. BY SARAH GILBERT // PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST

54 TODAY, WE TAKE for granted the humble snapshot. The digital camera revolution led to ever-escalating Megapixel Wars, and now we are transﬁxed by the effortless joys of snapping perfect photos with cameras the size of soap bars. It seems we’ve almost forgotten the lost roots of the point-and-shoot.

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APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM 56 industry dreamy feel,” says one. “The light it captures is really soft and ethereal,” saysSoanother.whenthe Polaroid Corporation announced it was discontinuing instant film in February 2008, a great sadness came over Kaps and Co. But in the months that followed, they mobilized. In Iowa, photographer Grant Hamilton began shooting video footage for what he figured would be “a long eulogy” to Polaroid film, a way “to later share the pain with everyone who wasn’t yet feeling it.” In Minnesota, Dave Bias and Sean Tubridy began a website called SavePolaroid.com, a collection of stories in pictures and words. And in the Netherlands, Kaps tracked down André Bosman, engineering manager of the last Polaroid film plant, in Enschede. The factory was being shuttered, and Kaps invited him out to commiserate.Overabeer,Bosman told Kaps that the equipmentsoon-to-be-dismantledwithwhichPolaroid film was manufactured would cost $130 million to replace. Together, they came up with a plan to save the equipment and continue the operation. Few people thought they would succeed. Hence the name: the Impossible Project.

LENS CRAFTERS

THE DISC 1982-1999 // Noted for its thin proﬁle and distinct disc of negatives

THE INSTAMATIC 1963-1988 // The top-selling snapper of all time featured ﬂashcubes. IMAGINE // Maurizio Galimberti’s depiction of Polaroid’s new spokes-star, Lady Gaga

THE BROWNIE 1900-1967 // This revolutionary unit introduced the snapshot.

By comparison, just 30 million ﬁlm

The fall of film could be seen a mile away. When digital cameras were first introduced in the 1980s, the entire camera industry diverted all research and devlopment funding to the new technology. Polaroid failed to get ahead of the collapsing market, a surprising lapse considering that company founder Edwin Land, who invented instant photography, had always been among the most forward-thinking men in the business. Until the late 1980s, every one of his innovations surpassed its predecessor: The Land Camera begat the Highlander begat the SX-70. Meanwhile, instant film developed alongside it, becoming indispensable: a tool not only for art, insurance and history, but a window onto our personal memories. Land died in 1991, leaving the company adrift. By the late 1990s, Polaroid had become a corporation with a split personality, on the one hand furiously producing digital cameras, on the other marketing throw-away cobranded cameras for kids, such as the Spice Cam and the Barbie camera. For the most part, as the decade wore on only a few niches still used Polaroid film: Movie crews used it to block their shots; college campuses and driver’s license offices created IDs with it; police crews used it to catalog evidence; and casting agents snapped aspiring models and actors. But these groups were a dwindling lot. According to Infotrends, between 50 and 60 billion digital images were taken in 2008.

A snapshot of the long history of the snapshooter

INSTAMATIC)(DISC,HARWOODA.STEPHENBY(BROWNIE),SHUTTERSTOCKBYPOLAROID,OFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

Pop superstar Lady Gaga even signed on as Polaroid’s newest creative director. This year, says communications director Marlene Kelnreiter, one million packs of “Instant Film by IMPOSSIBLE” will be manufactured; in 2011, that number will ramp up to three million. In a press release, Scott Hardy, president of the company that owns the Polaroid intellectual property, says the project will be “reconnecting consumers to the very soul of the Polaroid brand.”

This year, one million packs of “Instant ﬁlm by IMPOSSIBLE” will be manufactured; in 2011, that number will ramp up to three million. extra legroom. Starting at $14.

Prospects for the film’s resurrection are so good that Polaroid finally agreed, in October 2009, to license its name to the Impossible Project and to start producing instant cameras again. In March 2010, the old factory lines were restaffed and began turning out blackand-white film; by mid-2010, color film will be added as well.

Plus.Economy ® Purchase

When Edwin Land ﬁrst announced his instant ﬁlm invention in 1948, after years of experimentation, he famously said, “Don’t undertake a project unless it is manifestly important and nearly impossible.”ForKapsand his team of engineers feverishly working away in the Netherlands, the Impossible Project may have to change its name to something less pessimistic. They pulled it off, but barely—just the way Land would have liked.

SARAH GILBERT has an MBA from Wharton and a Polaroid SX-70 purchased online. She writes and photographs in Portland, Oregon.

What the numbers don’t say is that the instant photographs taken on Polaroid ﬁlm are all original works of art. “Every single one of them is entirely unique, like a painting,” says Hamilton. Photographer Rich Burroughs adds, “When I hear the sound of the shutter and wait for the image to appear, there is this visceral feeling that blows me away.” Somehow, the Impossible Project turned out to be possible. Kaps and Bosman, along with dozens of other longtime Polaroid employees, raised enough corporate and private donations to purchase the physical assets of the plant in 2008, and they also raised enough money from fellow connoisseurs to buy all the remaining stock of ﬁlm—enough to keep customers supplied for up to 18 months. There are still stumbling blocks. For instance, the chemicals used to create the makeshift darkroom contained within a Polaroid picture have been out of production for years, so the crew has lined up new suppliers.

APRIL CROSSWORD ANSWERS 57 packs (enough to make 300 million photos) were manufactured in the last full year of production of the Enschede Polaroid factory. That’s one Polaroid taken for every 200 digital images.

58 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM

THE FIRST AND LAST THING I held in my hand during two days at Gelato University was a plastic spoon, not a pen. In fact, during a two-day visit to the school, I worked my way through a rather large number of these Tutti Fruity EVERYONE KNOWS GELATO IS A DISH BEST SERVED COLD, BUT THERE’S A LOT MORE TO MASTERING THIS CREAMY POSTRE. ITS SECRETS ARE REVEALED AT GELATO U. IN BOLOGNA, ITALY. // BY NINA BURLEIGH BORZONIMICHELEBYPHOTOGRAPHSdisposable utensils. It might have been wasteful, but what could I do? Two dozen apt pupils were churning out about 60 different ﬂavors of gelato each day, and, well, I was the only nonstudent available to test them. The seven-year-old Gelato U. is in Bologna, on the grounds of the Carpigiani gelato factory, the world’s largest maker of gelato machines, which produce the improbably tiny ice crystals that account for the dessert’s

First, however, the students must begin with a method that a real gelato expert would find highly distasteful. They cook up their first practice batches of gelato using what look like paint cans full of industrial artificial flavoring. The results are good, but not great. And that’s the point, because the maestro wants these novitiates to understand the taste difference between the easy way and the hard way—the latter involving real fruit, 12 hours and plenty of elbow“Tomorrowgrease. is great artisanal day,” he shouts as they clean up after their inaugural efforts. “Why? Because tomorrow we transform the fruit! We peel! We peel for forty minutes. You know kibana? Kee-bah-na. It’s a wedding of kiwi and banana. We make that. But first, our theoretical lesson about balancing sugars and fats! And tomorrow, when we finish, you are very, very happy. Why? Because tomorrow we obtain the final result. Maybe better than fresh fruit!”

food&drink turn ﬂavors and fruits into an icy treat. During my two days at the school, maestro Gianpaolo Valli was running the lectures and lab. Most weekdays, year-round, Valli can be found clad in a blue chef’s jacket, strutting like Napoleon before 20 to 30 students for eight hours, barking out his secrets, occasionally disappearing behind bushels of persimmons and gallons of Incream.class, the maestro takes no prisoners. On day one, he lays out the regimen for the week. “No homework today, but tomorrow, homework! A very, very strong exercise on Thursday night! Friday you have a test with seventeen questions. You will have twenty minutes to answer them!”

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The gelato classes, which run for one week, are given in English every other month. Students pay 700 euros 59 smoothness and ﬂavor. In a Jetsons-style lab and lecture room dating to the 1960s, gelato experts train a biweekly inﬂux of students from Italy and around the world, who sign up to learn how to

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

The maestro is adamant that nowhere on earth is too remote for gelato. He has been called to advise new gelaterias all over the world: Damascus... Cairo... a small town in Northern Australia. Different climates require different formulas; different regions call for special ingredients. “In Africa, I make gelato only with sugar and the local fruits,” he says. “Our goal is to adapt, because it costs too much to import.”InItaly, there are an estimated 25,000 gelaterias. Italians are hardcore gelato fans, partaking with considerable gusto and little apparent guilt. Crowds cluster and jostle around gelato counters in the summer months, and in this reporter’s eyewitness experience, it is rare to see an Italian of any size, age or gender walking out of a gelateria with anything smaller than a towering three-scoop cone. The Carpigiani corporation would like to see that attitude go global. CEO food&drink

BREAKING THE ICE Students at Gelato U. hail from all over the world.

Most of Gelato University’s enrolees are Italians hoping to open their own gelaterias—not in Italy, which is saturated with them, but in far-ﬂung corners of the earth. The English classes are international, and during my visit, the two dozen students (average age: midforties) included a Nigerian, several Germans, two Turks, a Dutch woman, a pair of Serbs, several Swiss, a man from the South Pacific and two Americans.

At seven in the evening after their ﬁrst long day at Gelato U., some of them gathered on couches in the lobby of a nondescript hotel, their dorm. They had just churned out their ﬁrst batches of mostly tasty desserts, and now, like students everywhere, they were comparing notes, fretting about upcoming tests and, most of all, dreaming about where their degrees might take them. Could there ever be a Starbucks-like gelato franchise, they wonder, and who would start it?

60 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM (about $1,000) for the course and must cover their own room and board.

For the students, gelato is not just another dessert. It’s a calling, a way of life, a rebuke to modernity and a return to healthy living.

LOVING SPOONFUL A student strains fruit and then doles out some gelato.

The maestro, though, prefers a more rigorous sort of gelato maker. In his view, people who view gelato as a ticket to easy street are headed for trouble. “What if you didn’t produce that second limone sorbet and you run out? What if you don’t sell enough and you have to put it back in the freezer, and it comes out hard as a rock?”

One was Canadian mountain climber James Coleridge, who is in his 50s, with a six-month-old first child at home. He recently decided it was time to settle in at lower altitudes. With his wife of six years, he plans to open a gelateria in Vancouver in April. As befits a man who has climbed some of the world’s highest peaks, he says his gelateria will be serving the Mount Everest of desserts, a triumph of taste. “I am not interested in making just any gelato, I want to be the best worldwide,” he says. For Coleridge and his fellow students at Gelato U., gelato is not just another dessert. It’s a calling, a way of life, a rebuke to modernity and a return to healthful living, all in one smooth spoonful. “Today’s society is too fast, and the slow food movement is a response to that,” says Coleridge, clad in a cream-splattered apron and cap and pouring the makings of a vanilla gelato into a machine. “We need to move away from processed foods. Obesity issues in America come from processed food. Then you have the homogenization of food flavors. Gelato is the healthiest dessert on the market. This is the lost art of the artisan.”

“Many people come and decide to change their lives,” says Valli. “They say, ‘I am so stressed.’ When you sell gelato, you can go to the beach! You go to a Paciﬁc island, make gelato in the morning, sell in the afternoon, and when it’s done, you go to the beach, ﬁnd a woman. It’s good, no?”

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After spending a week or two of listening to Valli, the students can’t help but catch some of that passion. He sprinkles his lectures on theory and practice with the exhortations of a street preacher. Before the students go to work on heaps of passionfruit, kiwi, oranges, figs, melon, apples and assorted other fruits, the maestro extols the importance of flavor: “I need you to tell the mamas, when they come into your shop, the mamas whose children grow up on fish and chips and never taste strawberry unless it’s the flavor in antibiotics: ‘You have the opportunity to give your kid nutritional value!’ You go and tell theAmamas!”fewhours later, after the students have peeled, diced and churned mountains of fruit into small tubs of sweetness the maestro promised would be an improvement on fruit itself, I work my way through some two dozen plastic spoons. And I am happy to tell the mamas—and the papas and the babies—that a spoonful of freshly churned fig gelato may well be the closest we can come to heaven this side of the pearly gates.

Due in part to the recession, which has prompted a number of people to seek second careers, the university has a seen a 50 percent increase in the number of students enrolled since last year. The pupils of Gelato U. see a sweet future ahead. If Italians and now other Europeans love the stuff so much, can Americans be far behind? Is ice cream headed for a meltdown? Cocchi isn’t so sure: “It’s a matter of culture and taste. It’s a passion.”

CIAO, PROFESORE! Gianpaolo Valli, the maestro behind Gelato U., demonstrates the science of growing ﬂavorful fruit.

NINA BURLEIGH ate Italian-style while researching a new book, but she still likes American soft-serve, too.

61 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

Andrea Cocchi says the university wants to expand the culture of gelato beyond Italy’s borders, as much as it wants to sell the company’s machines (though not every student heads home with his or her own gizmo). “We hope the students learn that gelato is an interesting and affordable business, and then start gelaterias,” Cocchi says. But the company doesn’t keep track of how many graduates go pro. “Some of them wait two years, and then we hear that they opened up.”

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MYTH: THE BEST PITCHERS WIN THE MOST GAMES. REALITY: This myth has the beneﬁt of making perfect sense. Baseball is about winning games, so a pitcher’s wins column should be the ultimate judge of greatness, right? Not exactly. The rules for notching a win make less sense than Yogi Berra does. All a sports

BASEBALL TENDS TO grab people early in life, before its absurdities have a chance to reveal themselves. To a young fan, the game is about hitting a ball with a big stick, throwing that ball as far as possible and diving in the grass to catch it. But as we get pulled deeper into the vortex of fandom, toward the allconsuming fantasy leagues and $115 tickets, the simplicity fades. We learn the intricacies of the game, such as how a cut fastball is different from a slider and why old-timers refer to lazy pop flies as cans o’ corn. We learn strategy, such as the proper time to double steal and where to position the left-fielder when Albert Pujols comes to the plate (in the bleachers). This is only scratching the surface; the mysteries of salary arbitration and oversize polyurethane foam fingers take many more years and a relationshipthreatening level of obsession to grasp. But there is one important lesson that most fans never learn, something the people running teams picked up (or at least should have) while they were clubhouse interns: Everything they think they know about baseball is wrong. In the service of ending this mass miseducation, let us dispel six of baseball’s most widely held myths.

63 CULTURE | APRIL 2010

AS A NEW BASEBALL SEASON GETS UNDERWAY, SIX OF THE GAME’S MOST COCKAMAMIE PIECES OF “CONVENTIONAL WISDOM” ARE THROWN OUT AT THE PLATE. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND // ILLUSTRATION BY JOHN CUNEO Game Theory

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REALITY: Strikeout haters tend to write off players who frequently swing and miss. Bad move! Some of the game’s best sluggers (Adam Dunn, Ryan Howard) are also its most strikeout prone (and, coincidentally, its biggest). Studies show that a high strikeout rate is correlated with an ability to hit for power and get on base. That isn’t to say strikeouts make a player better, but they certainly don’t make him worse. Still, there’s no quicker way for a young player to make enemies than with strikeouts. Coaches hate them, fans hate them, peanut vendors hate them. The strikeout is widely considered the worst way for a batter to fail and the easiest way to disappoint a small town (remember Casey?). But the strikeout is really no different from any other out. Some will argue that a groundout is better because it could move a runner to the next base or result in an error. But the potential beneﬁt of a grounder is canceled out by the increased chance of the only thing that elicits louder groans than a strikeout: a double play. Strikeouts also require pitchers to throw at least three pitches, and the more pitches thrown by the starting pitcher, the sooner his manager will have to rely on middle relievers, those schlubs masquerading as major leaguers.

APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM 64 sports pitcher has to do is leave the game with his team in the lead and he is eligible for the win. That means a pitcher who throws a baseball the way a baby ﬂings peas can give up 10 runs and still come out the winner, as long as his team has scored 11 by the time he’s dragged off the mound. That’s what happened to former Met Steve Trachsel for the entire 2006 season. The soft-tossing righty had 15 wins that year despite giving up almost ﬁve runs a game, which is usually bad enough to earn a bus ticket to Buff alo. Instead, he was rewarded with a new contract that paid him $3 million for another year’s work. At the other extreme, a dominant pitcher can toss a two-hitter and still get stuck with the loss if his team puts up a goose egg. The win is clearly a team statistic that unfairly rewards or punishes the pitcher. Not that Trachsel minds.

MYTH: THE BEST SLUGGERS HAVE THE MOST RUNS BATTED IN (RBIS).

MYTH: SOMETIMES BUNTING IS A GOOD MOVE. REALITY: Along with the knuckleball and Bob Uecker, the bunt is one of the most misunderstood phenomena in baseball. Typically, when a batter bunts, his goal is to move the runner to the next base while conceding the out at ﬁrst. It’s a trade-off. A sacriﬁce.

Those still convinced that strikeouts are a scourge may not have met a gentleman named Reggie Jackson. He sure struck out a lot, but he also found time to do some positive things at the plate. ON STRIKE Even the greats swing and miss.

REALITY: Uh-uh. Skepticism of the RBI dates back to the moment the stat was introduced by a Buff alo, New York, newspaper in 1879. In recent years, more baseball insiders have begun to see the uselessness of the RBI, but the majority still loves its “ribeye steaks” (really, people call them that). Truth is, measuring a hitter by his RBIs is like measuring your health by the size of your spare tire. Sure, it will give you a decent idea of where you stand, but there are far more advanced metrics. The problem with RBIs is that they are almost completely dependent on a batter’s place in the lineup and the players who hit before him. Just look at Blue Jays outﬁelder Joe Carter’s 1997 season. He recorded 102 RBIs despite hitting like a JV shortstop. Compare that to Barry Bonds’ 2003 season on an abysmal Giants team, which saw him record only 90 RBIs even though he hit 45 home runs and won the National League MVP. Sure, it’s hard to feel sympathetic for someone mired in such a dark cloud of steroid allegations, but 90 RBIs with the numbers Bonds put up is punishment no one deserves.

MYTH: THE ONLY THING WORSE THAN THE STRIKEOUT IS THE PLAGUE.

An out for a base. The idea is that if a runner advances a base it will increase the team’s chance of scoring. The idea is wrong. Statistical analysis shows that the out lost is more valuable than the base gained. Even the Washington Nationals are more likely to score when the batter goes for the hit, and those guys sometimes forget to use bats altogeher. But what if a player is more teddy bear than Teddy Ballgame? He would probably help the team more by Measuring a hitter by his RBIs is like measuring your health by the size of your spare tire. Sure, it will give you a decent idea of where you stand, but there are far more advanced metrics.

REALITY: Never trust a snack that doesn’t come in a shell. Like a baseball manager, senior editor ADAM K. RAYMOND wears stretchy pants to work. Today! Call 800-247-1417 or visit paulfredrick.com/shirts

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bunting than aimlessly ﬂailing away, right? Well, maybe. But instead of having these inept batters lay down a bunt, perhaps someone should lock them inside a batting cage until they’re able to do what tens of thousands of high school kids across the country can do—hit a baseball.

MYTH: MANAGERS LOOK FANTASTIC IN BASEBALL UNIFORMS. REALITY: Some managers look like swollen jelly beans in baseball uniforms. But don’t blame them. They have no choice. Major League Baseball strictly enforces managers-must-wear-uniformsthe rule, going as far as sending officials into the dugout to make sure they’re in compliance.Itwasn’talways like this. Back in the 1920s and 1930s gentlemen such as Connie Mack wore suits in the dugout. But by the late ’40s all managers had traded in slacks and fedoras for stretchy pants and baseball caps, and—70 years later—the style persists. A few incorrigable sorts, most notably Boston’s Terry Francona, have pushed the boundaries by wearing windbreakers rather than a uniform top. This qualiﬁes as rebellion. Coaches in other sports have gone further. In 2005 former 49ers head coach Mike Nolan petitioned the NFL to bend the rules so he could wear a suit, rather than the Reebok-branded garb required. His request was granted. Baseball needs a Mike Nolan—a trailblazing manager who demands the right to look like an adult. This would make the game see that forcing 60-yearold men who earn hundreds of thousands of dollars a year to wear pajamas to work is both cruel and unusual.

Order

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A OF BORED TEENS THEIR SMALL CALIFORNIA TOWN, NICOL

I’m an average guy now: reﬁned, hardworking, up-to-date on the topics of the day—a total square, basically. It seems like only yesterday I would drive eight hours to see a band. Or cruise around on a skateboard instead of behind the wheel of a hatchback. But every spring I’m struck by a wave of nostalgia for those carefree days. The ﬁrst sight of an Easter egg always triggers it—instantly transporting me to a distant September afternoon when my most memorable high school caper was, well, hatched. “I miss hunting Easter eggs,” said my friend Autumn. Even then, we were becoming nostalgic. We were in her room making a mix tape (remember those?) and playing Trivial Pursuit. I thought for a moment, and then I agreed. I missed it too.

ONE PAINTED EGG AT A TIME. BY JOB BROTHER // ILLUSTRATIONS BY ROBERT

TRANSFORM

An Early Spring 67

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010 diary

PAIR

ADULTHOOD TENDS to sneak up on you. One minute, you’re an easygoing kid; the next, you’ve got a house, responsibilities, assignments piling up. You still listen to the music of your youth—only now it’s on an oldies station. And more and more you forswear nights on the town in lieu of relaxing in front of the TV with a nice glass of Merlot or Shiraz (as opposed to the ring-top alternative). As David Byrne of Talking Heads put it: “How did I get here?”

We lived in a tiny Gold Rush hamlet tucked in the Sierra Nevada Mountains called Nevada City. With a population of less than 3,000 and a downtown district that could be circumnavigated in a brief jog, the only trouble a teenager could get into was what he made. Autumn was the prettiest girl in town and my best friend, and we spent our restive teenage years doing the things that teenagers do: We hung out at the local diner loading up on caffeine, we collected records and lawn ornaments, and we spent an inordinate amount of time devising “experiments” to test the patience of our fellow Nevada City residents. Some called us practical

68 APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM jokers; others called us worse. That afternoon we sat in Autumn’s upstairs bedroom, surrounded by a menagerie of lawn ornaments we’d been collecting: weathered garden gnomes, a headless bust of Beethoven and, finally, our favorite, Toad from Wind in the Willows, dressed in a dapper blouse, ascot and waistcoat sitting on a giant egg. That’s when the fantastic idea occurred. I remembered how, at age eight, I learned the sad truth about the Easter Bunny. It was an abrupt awakening. Easter was the last holiday I could enjoy with the sense of magic only a kid can feel. Looking at the absurd frog-and-egg lawn ornament, and the joyful expression on its face, I decided we should break our routine. I wanted to recapture, if only for a day, the magic I remembered from childhood holidays. And I wanted to share it with everyone else. “We should hide Easter eggs for the entire town!” I cried. “In the middle of winter. We’ll shock Nevada City.” We hit every grocery store that afternoon and for weeks afterward, accumulating hundreds of eggs (and almost as many suspicious looks). We also loaded up on white vinegar, food coloring and caffeinated soda. Then we boiled them in batches in Autumn’s family kitchen and stored the cooked trove in her mother’s basement fridge. Every spare moment for weeks thereafter we locked ourselves away in the bedroom, surrounded by pens, pipe cleaners, glitter, cups and bowls. Our hands were stained with muddled shades of red, green, blue and yellow. The acrid fog of vinegar so permeated the room that when we occasionally left for food, the outside air actually smelled like vanilla marzipan. We colored the eggs carefully and drew on them furiously. No two were alike. You might think that after days of decorating eggs, we’d become careless about how they looked. On the contrary: We became more obsessive and, I’d say, deranged. After hundreds of hours hunched over uncountable dozens of eggs, breathing dye and vinegar, our sensibilities turned toward the surreal. Some eggs bore simple, almost modernist color squares, while others offered cryptic messages, such as “Happy Holidays” and “Incubate Me!” It was mid-November when the eggs were finished. Now came the fun part: hiding them for the good citizens of Nevada City to find. We changed out of our dye-stained work tees and into nice clothes—dark colors, of course, the better to remain inconspicuous.

“No way!” his girlfriend replied. “It’s November!” They walked off chuckling. We strolled through town and watched as business owners arrived at their shops. They’d see one egg nestled in a bush

Well after midnight, we snuck around the deserted streets of downtown, laden with backpacks full of eggs. It was a cold, drizzly night. As we hid the eggs we got soaked to the bone, but our adrenaline was pumping. We made sure every business and home in town had at least one egg on its property—some in plain view, others that would take some searching. When we had ﬁnally emptied the last backpack, it was nearly sunrise. We slinked back to Autumn’s house to warm up. Shaking with excitement and devouring cinnamon toast, we counted the seconds until sunrise. Then we raced into town and took a seat on a park bench to await the day’s ﬁrst pedestrians. A thirtysomething couple approached holding hands, out for an early stroll. Soon enough, the man stopped, pointed to an egg dyed green and red and perched on a fence post, and said, “Hey, look, an Easter egg.”

Two young girls carried an upside-down umbrella ﬁlled with colored eggs. They couldn’t care less that Easter was six months away. diary

69 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010 and think it curious, but when they noticed others—atop a fire hydrant, resting on a window sill— they registered stronger reactions: bafflement, usually, followed by fleeting concern and finally the smile that Autumn and I were hoping for. People started to huddle, to theorize, to exchange information, as it gradually became clear that the eggs were indeed everywhere. We overheard salutations of “Happy Easter!” Just before lunch, we saw something that exceeded our expectations. Standing near the town square, we spied two girls about eight years old skipping down the street dressed in rain slickers. Between them they carried one umbrella, which they were holding upside-down and filling with eggs. It was the moment we had been waiting for: cheerfully incongruous andThesetransformative.twogirlshad no concern for the rain and couldn’t care less that Easter was actually five months away. Colored eggs were for the hunting, they well knew, so that’s what they did. Autumn and I took a booth at our favorite diner and ordered coffee and pancakes. The restaurant was buzzing with talk of the eggs. We listened and ate, blissful, silent and exhausted. The sheriff came in and sat at his usual stool at the counter. “Happy Easter, Mike,” a waitress said. “You did notice it’s Easter, right?” “Yeah,” he snorted, and he turned to look at us with a knowing, weary grimace. “Let’s just hope those eggs get found before they start smellin’.” And that was it. We’d somehow rekindled our own lost sense of childhood exuberance, and we had done it for others, too. And we’d stayed out of trouble. That was a bonus. Until the next summer, when we decided it was time for an early Christmas... California-born JOB BROTHER is slightly allergic to cellophane grass. Visit: www.greatsteakofna.com The last of the operatorsindependents.greatTheowner/whogivenotonlyfinebeefbuttheirheartsaswell. The Independent Retail Cattleman’s Association 557 Mt.Pleasant Road Kingston Springs, TN info@greatsteakofna.com37082 McKendrick’s Steak House ATLANTA, Proprietors:GA........................770.512.8888Claudia&DougMcKendrick,RickCrowewww.mckendricks.com Malone’s LEXINGTON, KY....................859.335.6500 Proprietors: Brian McCarty & Bruce www.malonesrestaurant.comDrake Metropolitan Grill SEATTLE, WA.........................206.624.3287 Proprietor: Ron www.themetropolitangrill.comCohn Gene & Georgetti CHICAGO, Proprietors:IL.........................312.527.3718Tony&MarionDurpettiwww.geneandgeorgetti.com St. Elmo Steak House INDIANAPOLIS, IN.................317.635.0636 Proprietors: Steve Huse & Craig Huse www.stelmos.com III Forks DALLAS, Proprietor:HALLANDALEProprietor:TX............................972.267.1776ChrisVogeliBEACH,FL......954.457.3920TommyNevillwww.iiiforks.com Manny’s Proprietors:MINNEAPOLIS,MN.................612.339.9900PhilRoberts,PeterMihajlov&KevinKuesterwww.mannyssteakhouse.com Grill 225 CHARLESTON, SC.................843.266.4222 Proprietor: Nick Palassis Executive Chef: Demetre www.grill225.comCastanas Benjamin Steak House NEW YORK, NY ...................212.297.9177 Proprietor: Benjamin Prelvukaj Chef: Arturowww.benjaminsteakhouse.comMcLeod

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010 artifact This year, Switzerland celebrates a century of aviation with a set of postage stamps that tells the story of air travel over the past 100 years. 86P. 72 HUNTING GATHERINGAND Browse the world’s best shops. 80 TO AID AND COMFORT A hospital ship’s ﬁnal voyage is post-earthquaketo Haiti. By Stephan Talty 86 THREE PERFECT DAYS: GENEVA The staid ﬁnancial capital packs a wallop of small-town charm. By Jebediah Reed FEATURES 71 tar fa cr i fa

APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM Istanbul’s Kapali Çarsi bazaar

THE MOST UNUSUAL AND TRAVEL-WORTHY BAZAARS, EMPORIA AND DESIGNER BOUTIQUES ON THE PLANET AREN’T JUST ABOUT THE MERCHANDISE—THEY’RE ABOUT THE EXPERIENCE. BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO LEAVE A LITTLE EXTRA ROOM IN YOUR LUGGAGE, JUST IN CASE... HUNTINGGATHERINGAND

Thousands of miles from home, there is the familiar pressure to rush across the piazza and face the next museum tour on your itinerary. But years later, when the exhibits and the architectural wonders are long forgotten, it’s that peculiar totem, carefully wrapped and taped and carried home in spite of it all, that you will relish. Here’s where to ﬁnd it.

—SARAH HORNE

you’ve nodded appreciatively at the umpteenth ancient site, not long after the 27th pit stop for postcards and bottled water, a curious longing strikes you. Your feet are aching and your neck is still out of joint from those ﬂuffy hotel pillows when you spot an alleyway that looks...interesting. You make the turn.

Suddenly, in a little out-of-the-way shop, your eye alights on something improbable glinting in a dusty corner, and a jolt of desire hits you. There it is, the the vintage toreador’s cape, the jaunty taxidermied peacock, the bespoke brass doorstop in the shape of a dragonﬂy that will be arduous to carry and even more arduous to ﬁt into your overhead bin.

Standing in the shadow of the Nuruosmaniye Mosque, this massive covered market has about 4,000 stalls, organized into sections based on wares—so if all you want is a Turkish rug, stick to the rug area. But we recommend you take a spin through the rest; the elaborate arched ceilings dating back to the 1460s, when the market was built, are themselves worth the trip. And with vendors selling everything from spices and tea to fine jewelry and copperware, you’ll probably pick up a trinket or two more than you’ve planned on. But that’s fine, because you’ll have haggled brilliantly (to learn how, see page 78). grandbazaaristanbul.org Kuwait may not have the same reputation as Dubai for Middle Eastern luxury shopping, but it should. Behold Octium, a delightful jewelry shop designed by Jaime Hayón to look like something out of a dream sequence in Mad Men, with vertical purple podiums and mod display cases exhibiting the finest of fine gems. You’ll find baubles by Ivanka Trump, Hannah Martin and Pippa Small here, as well as the exclusive Octium Collection. octiumjewelry.com

Oh yes, you think, it will be mine.

0 We’ve all heard of museum stores, but Vinçon is more of a store-asmuseum. The perfectly curated décor and housewares purveyor is a vital part of Barcelona’s legacy as a great design city. Each item sold is handpicked by owner and interior decorator Ferran Amat, as are the pieces in the shop’s gallery. Don’t miss out on the view of Antoni Gaudí’s La Pedrera from the window. After all, a little culture won’t hurt you. vincon.comOCTIUM;OFCOURTESY(ISTANBUL),MONTGOMERYJOCKBYPAGE:LEFTSPREAD);(PREVIOUSWISECHRISTOPHERBYPHOTOGRAPHS (BOTTOM)KNECHTEL/LAIF/REDUXGUNNARBY(RIGHT),CICCONIDAVIDBY(LEFT),VINCONOFCOURTESYPAGE:RIGHT

Formerly the Soviet Union’s state store, GUM, which takes up one full side of Red Square, is housed in a building that once served as Josef Stalin’s ofﬁces. Its current incarnation—an ultrachic department store, with designer boutiques such as Burberry and Hermès gathered under a giant glass dome—can’t be beat for upscale window-shopping. The joys of capitalism have rarely looked so good. gum.ru

How come you’ve never found an Arne Jacobsen chair at your local consignment shop? Because you’re not shopping at Elio Ferraro, a vintage mecca in Milan and Florence that’s chockablock with ﬁnds by the likes of Eames and Marimekko, not to mention one-of-a-kind frocks by Chanel and Dior.

APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM

This nine-story electronics store, which anchors the city’s crowded, bustling Akihabara Electric Town, goes way beyond just cameras to stock gizmos and gadgets of all sizes and functions. In the most gadget-obsessed city on the planet, this is the place for deals on the latest ﬂatscreen TV, MP3 player, camera or digital mind reader. Okay, that last one might not really exist, but if it does, you’ll ﬁnd it here. yodobashi.com (website in Japanese)

62 Langsuan Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan; Tel: 02-6519501

Founder Ferraro is himself an accessories designer, so he has the eye and connections to score limitededition looks, home furnishings and adornments made from 1920 to the present, as well as to secure prototypes from fashion houses. While the wares are not inexpensive, at least you know they’ve stood the test of time. elioferraro.com

You don’t have to stop shopping when the sun goes down. This covered market featuring authentic paintings and pottery, as well as standard souvenir fare, is a lovely spot for an evening stroll, complete with live music, the Joe Louis Puppet Theater (which performs traditional Thai shows) and a beer garden. The prices here are a bit higher than elsewhere in the city, so we recommend you start your bartering at half the asking price. Please note that there have been rumors since 2007, when new management took over, that the market would close. Pay a visit before it does.

In business since 1997, this attentively curated haven of designer everything deﬁned the term “concept store.”

(YODOBASHI),PRESSYAMADA/ZUMAHITOSKIBYCOLETTE,ANDFERRAROELIOOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS (GUM)KONIGTHIABYBOTTOM),(BANGKOKWISECHRISTOPHERBYTOP),(BANGKOKSPENCERMICHAELBY

If you catch the vapors walking in, stop at the Water Bar, which serves 100 varieties of H2O. Then peruse three ﬂoors of clothing—think Miu Miu, Prada, Balmain, really too many to name— plus books and gadgets. There’s also a gallery, which often houses collaborations between artists and designers, such as a line of Tommy Hilﬁger sneakers and rain boots with Keith Haring designs on them. Talk about happy feet. colette.fr

FIVE STEPS TO HAGGLING LIKE AN OLD HAND ALWAYS ASK THE PRICE. EVEN IF AN ITEM IS MARKED, THE SALESPERSON MAY OFFER YOU A DEAL OFF THE BAT. MAKE A COUNTEROFFER. THIS SHOULD BE LESS THAN THE AMOUNT YOU SETTLED ON IN STEP ONE, AND CAN BE AS LOW AS HALF THE ASKING PRICE. THE SALESPERSON WILL TYPICALLY RESPOND WITH A SIGNIFICANTLY HIGHER NUMBER. WALK AWAY... SLOWLY. INSTEAD OF MAKING LOWERTOALMOSTTHETHEMPOLITELYCOUNTEROFFER,ANOTHERJUSTTHANKANDMOVEON.SALESPERSONISGUARANTEEDOFFERYOUAPRICE.

Merz Apothecary probably looks much the way it did when it was ﬁrst opened by Swiss immigrant Peter Merz in 1875—despite a move to its larger ﬂagship location on North Lincoln Avenue in 1982. The handcarved wood façade and antique medicine jars are complemented by one-on-one attention from pharmacists with extensive knowledge of homeopathic and herbal remedies—another homey holdover from Merz’s time. The store also stocks every natural cosmetic one could hope for, and a selection of personal care lines rarely found stateside. merzapothecary.com

MAKE A DECISION YOU CAN LIVE WITH. SOMETIMES THAT MEANS LEAVING EMPTYHANDED; SOMETIMES IT MEANS PAYING MORE THAN YOU’D HOPED TO FOR AN OBJECT YOU JUST CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT. BUT SO WHAT? YOU’RE WORTH IT.

DECIDE WHAT YOU WANT TO PAY. OFTEN, MULTIPLE FLEA MARKET OR BAZAAR VENDORS WILL HAVE THE SAME ITEMS FOR SALE, WHICH MAKES SHOPPINGCOMPARISONEASY.

Do you really need a tin of mermaid repellent or a Belly of Whale Escape Kit? Probably not. But you can get them here, along with more giftable wares, such as a limited-edition print by photographer Sven Wiederholt or a spyglass. Perhaps most important, the store is part of 826 Valencia, an organization cofounded by author Dave Eggers that tutors children in writing. So how do pirates ﬁt in? That, my friend, is a question only a landlubber would ask. 826valencia.org

APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM (SELEXYZ)SLOUNVANETIENNEAND(MCSWEENEY’S)MCCARRONMICHELLEBY(MERZ),DUNAIDAVIDBYMARKET,STREETDOVEROFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

BIG DEAL Something of a high-fashion ﬂea market, Dover Street Market is laid out over six ﬂoors in the Mayfair neighborhood. The Commes des Garçons brainchild carries lines by the coolest designers you’ve never heard of alongside pieces by well-known couturiers such as Givenchy, Azzedine Alaïa and Proenza Schouler. Commes des Garçons also offers collections exclusive to the shop. Director Rei Kawakubo describes her goal as creating an “atmosphere of beautiful chaos,” and we think that’s the best kind. doverstreetmarket.com

Those who worship the written word will want to make a pilgrimage to this shrine of print. Named the best bookstore in the world by The Guardian, it’s housed in a converted 13th century Dominican church. Dutch architects Merkx + Girod designed soaring bookshelves that reach up to the ornate vaulted ceilings in the nave and added a reading area at the altar, as well as the requisite coffee shop, but they left the Gothic details intact. The store has good selections of books in English and other languages, so most everyone will be able to ﬁnd something appealing to curl up with. selexyz.nl

TO AID AND COMFORT BY STEPHAN TALTY AS HAITI DUG OUT FROM JANUARY’S DEVASTATING EARTHQUAKE, THE NAVY’S MERCY-CLASS HOSPITAL SHIP, THE COMFORT, RUSHED TO PORT-AU-PRINCE TO CARE FOR THE SURVIVORS. WILL IT BE THE VESSEL’S LAST MISSION? The 900-foot USNS Comfort anchored off Port-au-Prince APRIL 2010 81

“My biggest fear?” said Commander Mark Marino, director of nursing on board. “My biggest fear is that you could line up three hospital ships and it’s not enough.”

The anticipation filtered down through the wards and the berthing where 850 doctors, nurses and Navy corpsmen checked and rechecked their equipment. “What we’re steaming toward is something we’ve never experienced before,” Captain Andrew Johnson, the chief of medical operations, had told them during the final briefing the night before. The Comfort had seen service following Hurricane Katrina, but the reports from Haiti dwarfed those disasters by an order of magnitude. As it prepared to treat the wounded, the Comfort was also, ironically, bidding for its own survival. Despite its high visibility, some believe the Comfort is an anachronism— unsuitable for many crises, where timing is everything. There had been whispers that the Pentagon was considering phasing it out. Captain Tim Donahue, the head of surgery aboard the Comfort, had heard them himself. “I was treating a Navy admiral for a urology problem a few months ago,” remembered Donahue, “and he saw my USNS Comfort belt“That’sbuckle.”going to be a collectors item soon,” the admiral said.“Why is that?” said a startled Donahue.

AS THE USNS COMFORT SLID INK-BLACKTHROUGHWATER 1 NAVY)USOF(COURTESYSPREADPREVIOUSEXCEPTPHOTOS,AGTMAEL/MAGNUMVANPETERBYPHOTOGRAPHS

Flight crew members in turtlenecks and silver ﬁreproof pants strained to catch sightof the MH-60S coming over the dark waves. After four days at sea heading towardthe most deadly earthquake in the recorded history of the Americas, the Comfort was on the verge of a test unlike anything in its storied past.

The Comfort is a marvel: Imagine three major suburban hospitals fused together, doing 15 knots across the Atlantic Ocean. But the devastation in Port-au-Prince was so widespread and so unexpected that many feared the 1,000bed hospital ship, a former oil tanker, would be overwhelmed.

APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM 82 100 miles from Haiti, the sound of helicopterblades chuffed in the warm Caribbean air. The ﬁrst patients from the Haitian earthquake were inbound to the Navy hospital ship.

“Because,” the admiral said, “we’re getting rid of the Comfort.”

1. Medical personnel confer in the Comfort’s trauma center. 2. woundedwatchesBashonLieutenantMannthearrive. +

SEA TRIALS

Safford evaluated Jean and put him on a regimen of high-strength meds to prevent infection. He decided not to operate for now, to see how Jean responded to the treatment.

Receiving, where the patients would arrive. The 34-yearold neurologist was born in Port-au-Prince and left with his family in 1981 when the regime of Jean-Claude “Baby Doc” Duvalier turned violent. His father drove a cab and his mother cleaned homes so Etienne could go to Yale and win a place at the prestigious New York Presbyterian Hospital. And only three months after going on active duty in the Navy, he found himself returning to the place it had all begun.

83 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

Captain Shawn Safford, a pediatric surgeon, bent over the child as he was placed on a bed with crisp white sheets. “Can you ask him what his name is?” he called to a Haitian-born Navy corpsman. The boy grabbed for the doctor’s lapels, looking terriﬁed. He ﬁnally blurted out his name, “Jean.”

The Haiti mission certainly wasn’t being done on the cheap. With $19 million worth of medical equipment on board, the Comfort boasts 12 operating rooms, four X-ray rooms, four ultrasounds and a telemedicine setup that allows specialists back in the states to advise on surgeries in real time. Some of the Navy’s top doctors were pulled away from National Naval Medical Center and Walter Reed Army Medical Center on less than 24 hours’ notice, forcing those institutions to scramble to replace them. But for some on board, the questions to be answered in the next few days were more personal than the fate of the ship.

Dr. Mill Etienne was standing by in CASREC, or Casualty

Minutes after 10 p.m., the MH-60S helicopter touched down on the ﬂight deck. In the glow of orange and bright white lights, two stretchers were rushed off. One ﬂoor below, in CASREC, all eyes were focused on the elevator doors. Suddenly they hissed open, and the chopper’s redheaded pilot raced out, followed by a six-year-old on a stretcher. The little boy, who’d been pinned under a cascade of bricks knocked down by the quake, was half asleep, an IV in his arm.

“I reaped the beneﬁts of my parents’ coming to the U.S.,” he said, dressed in his pressed Navy camouﬂage. “And now I’m giving back to the two countries I love. It’s a very special thing.” Etienne’s phone had been constantly buzzing during the voyage with texts from family and friends asking him to go here or there in Port-au-Prince to look for a cousin or an uncle or a lost friend. He knew it wouldn’t be possible. “You can’t do everything,” he said soberly. Donahue too struggled to keep his feelings in check. He’d been in Haiti nine months before on a humanitarian mission. “It’s very emotional,” said the surgeon. “I know these people. And when I heard about the earthquake, I was like, ‘Oh my God.’ I know what this place looks like on a good day, and this is going to be a hundred times worse.”

Overhead, helicopters were buzzing continuously. The most critical patients were being taken by ambulance to the lawn of the shattered presidential palace and then flown out to the Comfort There, by day two, most of the medical staff was exhausted. The 16 wards were filling up, two newborn babies were sleeping in their incubators, and the mission— already changed from a six-month stay to an indefinite one— was deep into its work.

ETIENNE COULDN’T WALK ONE OF THE LONG HALLWAYS WITHOUT being handed a new case or asked about a cultural ﬁne point. But his uniform was still pressed and his eyes clear. He’d been leading a crash course on Haitian culture for the doctors, while also heading up the ship’s ethics committee. “I tell them that even though

As the beds filled up, Dr. William Todd became the point man on many of the cases. Eighty-five patients came in during the first two days, this pediatric orthopedic surgeon—a specialist in fractures—touched most of them. “With limbs comes function,” he said, “and in poor countries, function is life.” The flow of patients to the Comfort originated at the halfdestroyed National University Hospital in Port-au-Prince. There people were waiting to come aboard, their names written on tape across their foreheads. Patients sat in the 90-plus degree heat, family members fanning them. Disease was starting to spread. But the graffiti on nearby buildings was at least hopeful. Satan fine se fini, reads one. “The devil is finished, he’s finished.”

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“I have a nine-year-old at home,” Safford said, looking down at the ﬂoor. “And this boy doesn’t know where his parents are. He has his dad’s cell phone number, but I don’t know...”Hewalked away. More patients followed. What began as a trickle soon became a steady stream, with three or four helicopters circling the Comfort waiting to land. Over in intensive care, surgeons worked on the patients pouring in—a uniquely delicate process on board the Comfort, which can rock and shudder in big ocean swells. The ship’s bridge kept the surgeons aware of any turns or rough seas ahead, and the surgeons knew they could, if necessary, direct the captain to change course if they were deep into a delicate operation. On a previous trip, when a wave hit the Comfort, the enormous CAT scan machine had ripped free from its bolts and slammed through a bulkhead.

SHIPPING NEWS 1. Taking off after unloading injured 2. The trauma center 3. A moment of reﬂection 4. A young boy named receivingJeancare 5. Guarding the Comfort’s gangway 31 42 + NAVY)USOF(COURTESYBOYEXCEPTPHOTOS,AGTMAEL/MAGNUMVANPETERBYPHOTOGRAPHS

On this mission, a powerful aftershock pulsed through the bay where the ship ﬂoated, sending a tremor through its decks. “Did the anchor just fall off the ship?” a Navy corpsman yelled nervously.

The next morning, down in the Pediatrics ward, one deck beneath CASREC, each bed, even the empty ones, was populated by a safari of stuffed animals. The daughter of one Comfort surgeon had started a toy drive. Somehow, she and her classmates had collected 10 pallets of stuffed animals and gotten them to Haiti within days. Now there were lions and elephants and jaguars everywhere.

“Wow,” he said. “Am I in New York?” Later, the nurses called the cell phone number he’d brought with him. His father answered.

But a 12-year-old girl named Evangeline, with twists in her hair, big brown eyes and a fractured femur, had arrived without any guardians at all. And she was refusing surgery. Todd paused a moment, his hands still chalk-white from molding casts. Then he walked over to the girl, sat on the corner of her gurney, smiled and patted her arm. An interpreter bent over Evangeline and translated. Todd told her that everything was going to be okay, but that he had to ﬁx her leg. The girl said nothing. But she reached out and grabbed Todd’s arm. She accepted the operation. “It’s in the eyes,” he said later. “They sense that you care. And I don’t think you can fake that.”

Evangeline was sleeping. A tawny stuffed lion sat next to her right ear and a fat teddy bear next to her left. Jean, the six-year-old boy who’d been caught under falling bricks, was working on a coloring book. When he’d woken up the ﬁrst night after surgery, he looked around at the beds ﬁlled with toys and unfamiliar faces.

Etienne swept through CASREC on his way to check on a patient with a strange neurological disorder. In CASREC he passed Todd, who’d been awake for 45 hours now. He was facing a fresh dilemma. When Todd works at Bethesda and a child comes in, he has a system he’s worked out over the years. He tells the parents, “I have three children at home. But tonight I have four. I’ll take care of your child as if he were my own. And when he’s recovered, I’ll return him to you.”

Journalist STEPHAN TALTY is the co-author, with Richard Phillips, of A Captain’s Duty: Somali Pirates, Navy SEALs, and Dangerous Days at Sea, due out this month on Hyperion.

BY DAY TWO, MOST OF THE MEDICAL STAFF WAS EXHAUSTED. THE 16 WARDS WERE FILLING UP, AND THE MISSION HAD BEEN EXTENDED TO SIX MONTHS.

85 Haitians are grappling with tragedy, they’re still very proud,” he said. Etienne glanced at a young man around his age being wheeled by on a steel stretcher. “If my parents hadn’t left, that could have been me,” he said quietly.

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BATH TIME! Opposite, diving at Bains de Pâquis; and a view of Parc de la Grange GENEVA 88 DAY ONE Crossing Lake Geneva92 DAY TWO Touring the village of 94Carouge DAY THREE Climbing Le Selève Three Perfect Days This lakeside city of high ﬁnance and even higher mountaintops may seem like an exclusive Old World bastion, but it’s got the soul of a small town // BY JEBEDIAH REED

ILLUSTRATIONS

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DAY 1 You wake up at Hotel President Wilson (1), a 230-room modern glass and steel stunner on the Right Bank of Lake Geneva. Your elegant room looks out on the water— as does the hotel’s $63,000-a-night bulletproof Royal Penthouse a few floors above. For a moment you wonder what titan of global finance or politics is staying there now, but breakfast awaits. Pass through the chic water-themed lobby as you hurry outside to La Vouivre bakery before the famous milk chocolate croissants sell out (they always do). The glorious pastry melts in your mouth as you sit at an antique wooden table sipping coffee and watching an art student sketch nearby. This is the Pâquis district, a diverse and lively neighborhood frequently described as “emerging,” which, in Geneva, seems to mean a conspicuous dearth of luxury boutiques compared with adjacent areas. But Rue des Pâquis, the district’s main street, is lined with charming shops and restaurants. Make your way past them to the sylish five-star Le Richemond (2) hotel, where a bellman points to a lowslung water taxi, or mouette. Once aboard, you savor the breezy half-mile trip across the lake to the Left Bank, where locals are sunbathing and a few hearty

CHEN REIS // INTERNATIONAL AID WORKER // “In warm weather I go to La Barje, a cafe and music venue on a small strip of land in the middle of the Rhone. The crowd tends to be artsy—it’s a perfect place to go with friends on summer evenings, or just sit with a book.” BY ESRA CAROLINE RØISE

SHORE THING Clockwise from above, the Glow Bar at Hotel President Wilson, Lake Geneva’s “Baby Plage,” view from the presidential suite at Le Richemond; opposite, Place du Bourg-de-Four 1

Fortunately, you get what you pay for in Geneva. The city is extraordinary in its history— Julius Caesar passed through, it was the world capital of Protestantism in the 16th century, and today it is home to a permanent office of the United Nations—as well as its natural setting, located as it is on the shore of Europe’s largest lake and under the towering grandeur of Western Europe’s tallest mountain, Mont Blanc. But despite Geneva’s global signiﬁcance, the city proper is home to fewer than 200,000 people, and it rarely feels overcrowded: You can sip espresso at a café in the stunning Old Town and feel, as a visitor, as though you are part of the fabric of the place, enjoying its charms ever so discreetly. In fact, the Genevoise wouldn’t have it any other way.

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IN MANY RESPECTS, THE SWISS CITY OF GENEVA is designed to cater to the very wealthy and the very powerful, which is why, to the rest of us, it might seem like a bit of a splurge. When so many of your visitors are interested in private banking services, high-level diplomacy and timepieces that cost as much as sports cars, it’s unrealistic to expect a lot of bargains.

souls are enjoying a morning swim.

After stopping to admire the 450-foot-high Jet d’Eau (3) fountain, Geneva’s most iconic sight, you continue toward the Jardin Anglais (4) to ﬁnd out what time it is at Flower Clock, an enormous analog device with a face made of thousands of blossoms. Timepieces are the soul of this city, so you also pop your head into the Bucherer (5) jewelry shop across the avenue and check out the $100,000 Rolex with the all-diamond face. Avoid an impulse purchase and stroll over to Rue du Rhone, “Geneva’s Fifth Avenue,” for some window shopping.

SHELF LIFE The Librairie Ancienne Antiquités, top, and the Restaurant Les Armures

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COME TOGETHER // A VISIT TO UN HQ // Any visitor to Geneva will note a curious local obsession with America’s 28th president, Woodrow Wilson. There are a road, a luxury hotel and a palace all named after him. The fondness dates back to days after World War I, when Wilson spearheaded the creation of the League of Nations, an early version of the United Nations. The League failed in the days leading up to World War II but was reborn as the UN in 1945, when the international community took over the enormous Palais des Nations complex on Geneva’s Right Bank. One-hour tours are conducted daily (passport required). But the real highlight is across the street at the Red Cross Museum, a stunning building that documents the history of human rights.

It’s an impressive display of luxury, but the old walled city of Geneva, just three blocks to the south, is more your speed. You climb the narrow cobbled streets up to Hotel Les Armures (6), a magnificent 17th century mansion that serves what many local foodies consider the city’s best fondue. A place that might be overrun by tourists elsewhere in Europe feels local, with finance types sporting pocket squares and conversing quietly. You order the classic fondue—croutons dipped in savory cheese—and afterward the waiter shows you pictures of the Clinton family eating here. (Hillary got the fondue, Bill the Beforesauerkraut.)thefoodmakes you sleepy, it’s straight to nearby St Pierre Cathedral (7), a mesmerizing architectural Frankenstein as important to Protestantism as St. Peter’s Basilica is to Catholicism. Step inside and admire the austere wooden chair where John Calvin sat while he preached. Outside, stroll over to the ramparts of the old city wall and pat the trunk of Geneva’s famous chestnut tree (8), whose first annual bud traditionally marks the end of winter. Descending an old cobbled horse ramp, you find a small playground at Place Neuve where serious-looking men play chess with oversize chessmen on boards the size of shuffleboard courts. Try not to become a pawn in their game. On the way home, loop back through the Old Town and enjoy a vealburger with parmesan cheese at the chic bistro Soupçon (9), then pop next door to the lively and shockingly inexpensive La Clemence, a bar that occupies the best real estate on Place du Bourg-de-Four, the Old Town’s central plaza. If you’re in the mood to indulge, ask for a locally brewed Calvinus beer. A cheeky young Swiss fellow warns you with a wink, “The first one isn’t so good—but they get better.” He’s right.

3PD GENEVA

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FOUNTAIN BLEW Clockwise from left, Place du Bourg-deFour, the gallery at Le Richemond, Lake Geneva’s Jet d’Eau, St Pierre Cathedral by bicycle

SCIENCE AND NATURE Above, inside the History of Science Museum; opposite, a display of fresh produce at the bustling Marché de Carouge DAY TWO

TAKE A DIP // ONE NATION’S LONGTIME LOVE AFFAIR WITH FONDUE // It’s not a good idea to visit Geneva and not eat fondue, Switzerland’s iconic bubbly cheese dish. Having enjoyed short-lived popularity in America in the ’70s, fondue remains a staple of the Geneva diet. It is typically made with a mix of Gruyère and Emmental cheeses, a dry white wine and a dash of cherry liquor. The Genevoise argue frequently about who makes the city’s best fondue: Expats and intellectuals tend to favor the Café du Soleil, a casual and charming restaurant near the United Nations complex; gentlemen in $1,000 cufﬂinks often prefer to dip at the classic Restaurant Les Armures; and the young and the penniless gravitate to the affordable (but entirely delicious) fondue at the Bains des Pâquis café. They all agree on one thing: You haven’t eaten fondue until you’ve eaten the toasty cheese you scrape off the bottom of the pot at the end of the meal.

For lunch, walk across the street to La Bourse (4), a restaurant that manages to be warm and unassuming even though the waiters are wearing bow ties and black vests. You order mussels and frites, dipping your fried potatoes into a sublime herb sauce, which according to the waiter has more than 50 secret ingredients. He doesn’t divulge even one. In the afternoon, on your way back to town, you stroll along the lakefront, watching mouettes ply the lake and gazing at Mont Blanc beyond. The path takes you the elegant hilltop villa housing the History of Science Museum (5). You wander through the mansion’s conservatory, lingering among the collection of 18th century microscopes. Walking down the hill, you listen to an old busker singing John Denver songs in broken English. Country roads,Moreindeed.thanone new local friend has informed you that the Bains des Pâquis (6) spa is “the soul of Geneva.” So you stroll onto a concrete jetty stretching far out into the lake until you come upon the well-trafficked café, where you enjoy a bowl of delectable (and affordable) carrot leek soup, a plate of bread and brie, and an espresso. The atmosphere is homey. Beyond the café is an outdoor spa, where you relax even more. After 15 minutes in a 200-degree sauna you are suddenly one of the the brave few willing to take a dip in the frigid waters of Lake Geneva. Now you know what everyone meant about soul.

HASSAN OKBAR // RESTAURATEUR // I emigrated here from Cairo ﬁfteen years ago, and from the start I’ve appreciated the openness of Geneva. I work long hours, but when I have free time, I enjoy taking my three children to play in the Jardin Anglais—or on a lake cruise to Lausanne.

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You catch the lucky number 13 tram in front of the train station, just a short walk from the President Wilson, and take a 10-minute ride south across the Rhone and Arve rivers to the village of Carouge, an artsy alter-ego to the conservative city center. Wandering streets lined with artisan shops hawking wine, cheese, soap and bespoke cosmetics, you come to the unassuming storefront where Jean Kazes (1), one of the world’s most renowned clockmakers, has been building his monumental timepieces for almost four decades. (When Patek Philippe wants a clock for its corporate headquarters, it calls Kazes.) You chat briefly with the master, who recommends you stop at the nearby Wolfisberg (2) boulangerie—recently honored as Europe’s best breadmaker—for a taste of the signature “Wolfis bread” and a cup of coffee. Then you find yourself scoping out the Histoire de Vins (3) wine shop and chatting with the earnest and immensely knowledgeable proprietor, Michel Delomier.

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SUNNY SIDE UP From above, “La Telepherique” climbs Le Salève, the pool at La Reserve, and the scene around La Barje—a mobile bar—near Force Motrice

DAY THREE Roll out of bed, grab your passport, fortify yourself with coffee and fruit at President Wilson’s morning buffet, then walk up the hill to catch the No. 8 city bus. Within a few minutes you’re at the French border, walking through the checkpoint and hopping the aerial cable car—“La Telepherique”—to the top of Geneva’s own magniﬁcent Alp, Le Salève (1). You take in the astounding views of the city, the lake, and the valley of the Arve—wishing luck to the paragliders about to leap off a nearby cliff— then head off for a hike above the cable car station. In a meadow thick with wildﬂowers, you gamely hum a few tunes from The Sound of Music. Grab a hearty lunch at the mountaintop restaurant Horizon (2) Down below, hop the No. 8 again and head for the Plainpalais district. There are plenty of art museums and shopping adventures to be enjoyed here, but you’re beelining for the Patek Philippe Museum (3), with its astonishing collection of watches dating back to 1540. Drift uphill to a pedestrian mall near the rail station, and suss out Café de Paris (4), one of Geneva’s best-loved restaurants. The venerable family-run steakhouse is hidden among bland storefronts, but the atmosphere inside is crackling. A waiter points you toward a small table, packed in among other diners. There is no menu. The only dish available is steak in herbed butter. Here, the staff is in charge. You order a beer. The waiter shakes his head. You’ll be having red wine, he informs you. You comply cheerfully, thinking to yourself—as Julius Caesar must have during his own visit to Geneva two millennia before—“When in Rome...”

ROXANE FERRON OWNER, AUTOUR DU BAIN // I like to spend my free time in Carouge. The suburb has grown wealthier and more hip in recent years, but one place that still has the casual atmosphere of old Carouge is the restaurant Le P’tit Carougeois. Their perch ﬁllet—a favorite local dish— is one of the best in town.

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Boarding pass Instead of punching a clock, take your time and visit Geneva’s famous ﬂower clock, or kick back and relax in Old Town. Let United get you there in comfort and style so you can enjoy one of Europe’s most beautiful cities at the foot of the Alps.

JEBEDIAH REED has a wedge of Gruyère stashed in a Swiss bank account.

Back at the Wilson, you change into your chicest clothes and hop a cab up to Geneva’s fortress of jet-set cool, La Reserve (7). The hotel and spa, themed as an elegant safari lodge, are set on several acres north of the city and cater to a very exclusive, stylish crowd. You book dinner at Le Tsé-Fung, the hotel’s world-class Chinese restaurant. After the meal, you and your dinner companion step outside onto a patio to breathe the clear night air and enjoy views of the lake. The weather is cool, and before you know it an employee has draped a butter-soft wool blanket over your shoulders and silently disappeared inside.

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THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) Hotel President Wilson 47 Quai Wilson, 1211 Geneva; Tel: 41-22-906-6666 (2) Le Richemond Jardin Brunswick 1201 Geneva; Tel: 41-22-715-7000 (3) Jet d’Eau Quai Général Guisan (4) Jardin Anglais Quai Général Guisan and Quai Gustave Ador (5) Bucherer Rue du Rhône 45, 1204 Geneva; Tel: 022-319-6266 (6) Hotel Les Armures 1 Rue Puits-St-Pierre, 1204 Geneva; Tel: 41-22-3109172 (7) St Pierre Cathedral Cour Saint-Pierre 6, 1204 Geneva; Tel: 41-0-22-310-2929 (8) Chestnut tree Treille Promenade (9) Soupçon 8 Place du Bourg-de-Four, 1204 Geneva; Tel: 41-22-318-3737 DAY TWO (1) Jean Kazes 21 Rue Saint-Joseph; Tel: 41-22-343-3091 (2) Wolﬁsberg Place du Temple 5; Tel: 41-22-342-3219 (3) Histoire de Vins 35 Rue Saint-Joseph; Tel: 41-22-301-2548 (4) La Bourse 7 Place du Marché, 1227 Carouge; Tel: 41-22-342-0466 (5) History of Science Museum Villa Bartholoni, 128 Rue de Lausanne, 1202 Geneva; Tel: 41-22-418-5060 (6) Bains des Pâquis 30 Quai du MontBlanc, 1201 Geneva (7) La Reserve 301 Route de Lausanne, 1293 Bellevue; Tel: 41-22-959-5959 DAY THREE (1) Le

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Salève (2) Horizon 5760 Route des Trois Lacs, 74560 Monnetier Mornex; Tel: 04-50-39-0909 (3) Patek Philippe Museum 7 Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers, 1205 Geneva; Tel: 41-22-807-0910 (4) Cafe de Paris 26 Rue du Mont-Blanc, 1201 Geneva; Tel: 41-22-732-8450 0 500 Miles AvenuedeFrance Lake Geneva 3 4 3 1 2 3 4 6 87 9 5 1 2 5 4 6 RuedelaServette Rue de RouteLyon de Chancy RoutedesAcacias RueCarolineRueduVald’ArveRoutedeVeyrierAvenueLouisAubertBoulevarddesPhilosophes Route de ChéneRoutedeMalagnouQuaiGustaveAdorQuaiduMontBlanc RuedeLausanne SWITZERLAND Geneva 1 1 1 1 2

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APRIL 2010 PLAY Go crazy for Jeff Bridges in Crazy Heart. INFORMATION 122 United Destinations 126 Terminal Diagrams 131 Alliances & Partnerships 132 Customs & Immigration 139 Food & Beverages ENTERTAINMENT 112 Films & Television 119 Audio Programming 134 Crossword 136 Sudoku

TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION APRIL 1-15 Me and Orson Welles APRIL 16-30 Crazy Heart [T] APRIL 1-15 The Middle [T] Life [T] Arrested Development [T] APRIL 16-30 30 R ock [T] Nature’s Great Events Cheers [T] APRIL 1-15 The Young Victoria APRIL 16-30 Did You Hear About the Morgans? Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii APRIL 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] A Lion Called Christian The Simpsons [T] APRIL 16-30 The Office [T] Smithsonian Channel’s Sound Revolution Two and a Half Men [T] Inside Life APRIL 1-15 Crazy Heart [T] APRIL 16-30 Me and Orson Welles Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii APRIL 1-15 30 Rock [T] Nature’s Great Events Cheers [T] APRIL 16-30 The Middle [T] Life [T] Arrested Development [T] APRIL 1-15 Me and Orson Welles APRIL 16-30 Crazy Heart [T] APRIL 1-15 30 Rock [T] Human Target [T][V] The Big Bang Theory [T] Friends [T] APRIL 16-30 The Middle [T] Dirty Jobs TheThePhilanthropistOffice[T] APRIL 1-15 Did You Hear About the Morgans? APRIL 16-30 The Young Victoria APRIL 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] House [T] Man V. Food Frasier [T] APRIL 16-30 The Simpsons [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations Arrested Development [T] &MEXICOHAWAIIAMERICANORTHCARIBBEAN APRIL 1-15 Did You Hear About the Morgans? APRIL 16-30 The Young Victoria APRIL 1-15 The Office [T] Smithsonian Channel’s Sound Revolution Two and a Half Men [T] Inside Life APRIL 16-30 The Big Bang Theory [T] A Lion Called Christian The Simpsons [T] &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONSOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND EASTBOUND WESTBOUND MEET MR. WRONG IN A WORLD OF JAMES BONDS and G.I. Joes, of relentlessly elegant master thieves and blockbuster-ready butt-kickers, down-and-out romantic anti-heroes such as Crazy Heart’s Bad Blake (Jeff Bridges) are the ones that audiences can’t get enough of. Whether he’s pining for a decent gig or the right girl, one can’t help but root for Bad, just as it’s impossible not to feel pleased when Hugh Grant’s neurotic character in Did You Hear About the Morgans? lets go and makes the most of his new life with his almost-estranged wife. “That’s a characteristic of the modern love story,” says Chuck Walton, editor of Fandango.com. “It’s the guy’s last chance and he’s trying not to blow it.” —Patrick Huguenin

DID YOU HEAR ABOUT THE MORGANS?

1 hr. 54 min.

1 hr. 43 min.

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm. 113HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

“[Rupert] Friend, as Albert, is this ﬁlm’s secret weapon—ardent, subtly proud, a little shy...with an intellectual philosophy he intends to preserve.”— Telegraph It’s 1837, and Victoria is the object of a royal power struggle. Her uncle, King William, is dying, and Victoria is in line for the throne. Everyone around Victoria— her mother, her adviser and her governess—smothers the queen-to-be and keeps her out of court. The ﬁlm follows her as she takes the throne, learns which advisers to trust and develops her famous romance with Prince Albert.

An alcoholic country music singer is able to get his life and career back on track through his relationship with a female reporter and becomes a mentor to contemporary country star at the peak of his career.

FEATURING Emily Blunt, Rupert Friend, Paul Bettany

“The charm of the ﬁlm is that it resists turning people into cliches and lets Parker and Grant work their particular magic.”—Variety Manhattan couple Meryl and Paul Morgan’s almost-perfect lives have only one failure: their dissolving marriage. When the couple witnesses a murder, the Feds whisk them away to Wyoming. In their new BlackBerry-free lives, can the Morgans rekindle the passion?

Based in real theatrical history, Me and Orson Welles is a romantic coming-of-age story about a teenage actor who lucks into a role in Julius Caesar as it’s being re-imagined by a brilliant impetuous young director named Orson Welles at his newly founded Mercury Theater in New York 1937.

FEATURING Christian McKay, Claire Danes, Zac Efron

DIRECTED BY Jean-Marc Vallee

FEATURING Hugh Grant, Sarah Jessica Parker, Sam Elliott DIRECTED BY Marc Lawrence

ME AND ORSON WELLES

FEATURING Jeff Bridges, Colin Farrell, Maggie Gyllenhaal

THE YOUNG VICTORIA

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

DIRECTED BY Scott Cooper

“[Scott] Cooper, himself an actor and musician with an eye for authenticity, has given [Jeff] Bridges the opportunity to deliver an all-out performance , playing someone who can be disgruntled and despairing, resentful and delightful and everything in between.”— Los Angeles Times

CRAZY HEART [T]

DIRECTED BY Kirk Jones

1 hr. 52 min. 1 hr. 45 min.

“[Richard Linklater] creates a tale of youthful ambition, spurting hope, the seductions and cruelties of the creative process.”—Telegraph

LIFE Get right in the middle of one of the largest migrations on earth, as more than 10 million fruit bats converge in a few special trees in Zambia to feed; see 30 polar bears gather to feed on a bowhead whale carcass; and witness the biggest ﬁght on Earth… male humpback whales battling for a female.

The hero of Crazy Heart down and out, UNLUCKY, WE LOVE APRIL 2010 PLAY IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

In 2008, a two-minute clip on YouTube became an international phenomenon. The grainy footage captured the amazing and highly moving reunion of two young men and their pet lion, Christian, one year after they had left him in Africa. This documentary tells the tale of John Rendall and Ace Bourke and a very cute Christian the Lion.

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

This show left us in limbo—going off the air, promising a movie that doesn’t yet have a release date. Catch them inﬂight when Michael gets numerous requests for unfrozen money and chastises Lucille for being too coddling with Buster. Lindsay protests the war to boost her self esteem, and Tobias and Gob decide to start a coffee company.

Morgan Freeman presents this six-part series showcasing musicians such as James Brown, BB King, Eric Clapton, Carlos Santana and Natalie Cole among others, tracing the inﬂuences and impact of traditional American music. This episode focuses on the blues, but it won’t leave you singing them.

ARRESTED DEVELOPMENT

THE MIDDLE Meet TV’s newest lovably dysfunctional family headed by Frankie, the third-best used car salesman (out of the three) at the local dealership, and her wisecracking husband, Mike. Frankie and Mike’s anniversary getaway is ruined when Brick is sick, Sue is lovesick and Axl gets his learner’s permit.

&FILMTELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

Like to plan ahead and know what’s playing before your flight? Text “MOVIE” to 75309 and you’ll get a reply with the current movies that are playing. If you really like to plan ahead, text “NEXT MOVIE” for next month’s movies. What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

SMITHSONIAN CHANNEL’S SOUND REVOLUTION

NATURE’S GREAT EVENTS

As winter arrives along South Africa’s east coast the inshore waters cool, drawing billions of hungry sardines. Mega pods of common dolphins, battalions of sharks and greedy Bryde’s whales feast as rain pours down. For African penguins and bottlenose dolphins this movement of sardines is the deﬁning moment of their lives. Watch it all unfold.

LIVE LAUGH LEARN

GET IN TOUCH

A LION CALLED CHRISTIAN

united com Search ﬂights, book guaranteed lowest United fare. Check in online, print boarding passes. Arrive in Florida, load up on ﬂoaty toys. Manage your itinerary, make sure family sits together. Simplify your travels. Plan and manage everything on united.com. Realize it’s time to get away. ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

&FILMTELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル10番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 在747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道 FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMFILMTELEVISIONTELEVISION If your aircraft is equipped with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket. CHINAJAPAN & HONG &THAILANDJAPAN–HONGVIETNAM–HONGSINGAPORE–KONGKONGKONGTAIWAN Me and Orson Welles (J)(C) Crazy Heart (J) 聲聲相識 (C) Up in the Air (J)(C) *The Blind Side [T] (C) ブラインド・サイド (J) *East Coast/ORD only Brothers and Sisters [T] Without A Trace [T] Frasier [T] (J) House [T] (C) The Philanthropist (C) Frasier [T] (C) The Invention of Lying (J)(C) House [T] (C) The Philanthropist (C) Frasier [T] (C) House [T] (C) / The Philanthropist (C) Frasier [T] (C) Build It Bigger (C) Out of Egypt (C) Weird Connections (C) HARD talk (J) / The Real (J) Peschardt’s People (J) HARDtalk (J) The Invention of Lying (J) *The Blind Side [T] (C) ブラインド・サイド (J) *Thailand flights only HARDtalk (J) The Real (J) Peschardt’s People (J) HARDtalk (J) Ho Chi Minh City to Hong Kong Where the Wild Things Are (C) かいじゅうたちのいるところ (J) *Everybody’s Fine [T] (J)(C) *Thailand flights only House [T] (C) The Philanthropist (C) Frasier [T] (C) HARDtalk (J) The Real (J) Peschardt’s People (J) HARDtalk (J) Me and Orson Welles (J)(C) Crazy Heart (J) 聲聲相識 (C) Up in the Air (J)(C) The Blind Side [T] (C) ブラインド・サイド (J) Did You Hear About the Morgans? (C) 噂のモーガン夫妻 (J) The Young Victoria (J)(C) Fantastic Mr. Fox (J) 狐狸先生無得頂 (C) *Everybody’s Fine [T] (J)(C) *East Coast/ORD only Did You Hear About the Morgans? (C) 噂のモーガン夫妻 (J) The Young Victoria (J)(C) Fantastic Mr. Fox (J) 狐狸先生無得頂 (C) Everybody’s Fine [T] (J)(C) Where the Wild Things Are (C) かいじゅうたちのいるところHARDtalk(J) (J) / The Real (J) Peschardt’s People (J) / HARDtalk (J) Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City EASTBOUND WESTBOUND The Mentalist [T][V] The Good Wife [T] 30 Rock [T] Me and Orson Welles (G) Crazy Heart [T] (G) Up in the Air (G) *The Blind Side (G) *West Coast only The BrothersPhilanthropistandSisters[T] (G) The Middle [T] Did You Hear About the Morgans? Haben sie das von den Morgans Gehoert? (G) The Young Victoria (G) Fantastic Mr. Fox Der fantastische Mr. Fox (G) *Everybody’s Fine [T] (G) Whip It! (G) *West Coast only Me and Orson Welles (G) Crazy Heart [T] (G) Up in the Air (G) The Blind Side (G) Two and a Half Men [T] The Good Wife [T] The Simpsons [T] 30 Rock [T] Did You Hear About the Morgans? (G) The Young Victoria (G) Fantastic Mr. Fox (G) Everybody’s Fine [T] (G) The Office [T] My Brilliant Brain: Make Me A Genius e 2 design The Middle [T] AUSTRALIAGERMANY *Thailand flights only

THE BLIND SIDE [T]

UAL CORPORATION ONBOARD PHOTOGRAPHY AND VIDEO POLICY

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE

The Invention of Lying takes place in a world in which lying—even the concept of a lie—does not exist. But when Mark Bellison suddenly develops the ability to lie, he ﬁnds that dishonesty has its rewards. He lies his way to fame and fortune, but still can’t get the woman he loves.

FEATURING Robert De Niro, Kate Beckinsale, Sam Rockwell, Drew Barrymore DIRECTED BY Kirk Jones

1 hr. 41 min.

1 hr. 49 min.

1 hr. 46 min.

FEATURING Ricky Gervais, Jennifer Garner, Jonah Hill DIRECTED BY Ricky Gervais, Matthew Robinson UP IN THE AIR Ryan Bingham is a corporate downsizing expert whose cherished life on the road is threatened just as he is on the cusp of reaching 10 million frequent ﬂyer miles and just after he’s met the frequenttraveler woman of his dreams.

EVERYBODY’S FINE [T] A widower who realizes his only connection to his family was through his wife sets off on an impromptu road trip to reunite with each of his grown children.

Based on the beloved story by Roald Dahl, the ﬁlm tells the story of the noble, charming and fantastic Mr. Fox who uses his wits and cunning to outfox three dimwitted farmers who tire of sharing their chickens with the crafty creature.

1 hr. 39 min.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

FEATURING Sandra Bullock, Tim McGraw, Kathy Bates DIRECTED BY John Lee Hancock

FANTASTIC MR. FOX

Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, ﬁlm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio, or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio, or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment, or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video, or other photography (motion or still), recording, or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent speciﬁcally permitted by United Airlines (October 2009).

VOICES BY George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Anjelica Huston, Jason Schwartzman DIRECTED BY Wes Anderson

1 hr. 38 min.

An adaptation of Maurice Sendak’s classic children’s story, in which Max, a disobedient little boy sent to bed without his supper, creates his own world—a forest inhabited by ferocious wild creatures that crown Max as their ruler.

FEATURING Catherine Keener, Max Records, Mark Ruffalo DIRECTED BY Spike Jonze

FEATURING George Clooney, Jason Bateman, Vera Farmiga DIRECTED BY Jason Reitman

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different line up before and after the start of each month. 117HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following policy in regard to the use of personal audio and video equipment onboard its aircraft. This policy is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations.

| APRIL 2010

The Blind Side depicts the true story of Michael Oher, a homeless youngster taken in by the Tuohys, a wellto-do family. Oher’s presence in the Tuohy’s lives leads them to some insightful self-discoveries, and Oher goes on to become an All-American offensive left tackle.

2 hrs. 4 min.

THE INVENTION OF LYING

L et United PassPlus® point your business in the right direction. Participating airline partners include: ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Business can take you anywhere at a moment’s notice, so it’s important to exercise control over your travel. United PassPlus is a pre-paid travel program that entitles frequent travelers and businesses to: booking flights ® access ® elite memberships, and more Wherever you venture on business, United PassPlus can make your travels more affordable and rewarding. To learn more or to sign up, visit united.com/passplus .

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM. 119HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010 CH. *Live communication between the flight deck and FAA air-traffic control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its flight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all flights. Available at your captain’s discretion. 777 2-CABIN A319 & A320 SELECT A320 747757 & 767 2-CABIN 17161512111054321687913141819 MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE English From the Flight Deck Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary HitsAdult Contemporary Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Top 20 Hits MOVIE English MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz MOVIE English Top 20 Hits From the Flight Deck New Age New Age Classic Rock Classic Rock New Alternative ’70s Hits ’70s Hits’70s Hits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits Children’s Programming Children’s Programming MOVIE English Top 20 Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits From the Flight Deck ’60s Hits ’60s Hits’60s Hits’60s Hits ’60s Hits MOVIE English Unavailable Unavailable Unavailable Top 20 Hits Top 20 Hits Blues Classical Pops From the Flight Deck ’80s Hits ’80s Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits Adult Album Rock Adult Album Rock Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Classic Soul Today’s R&B Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits New Country Hits Children’s Programming New Country Hits FROM THE FLIGHT DECK

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati P ops, Andrea Bocelli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa NEW AGE Spa is a plac e of peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, ﬂowing music.

CLASSICAL POPS Lis ten to classical music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dr eam, Kevin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac CLASSIC ROCK Hold your ligh ters in the air. It’s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Creedence Clearwater R evival, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company, Rolling Stones

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Place Live recordingplusmoviemixcontentaward-winningfeaturesoriginalblendedwithamusicofthemostpopularkids’andTVsoundtracks,Children’sProgramming’sartists.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO CHANNELS & ARTISTS

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan ’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs.

’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than rocksinger-songwritersever—fromandclassictoR&Banddisco.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes

WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20 plays just the songs you vote for. Cast your vote anytime at xmradio.com20on20.; then plug in and hear what’s hot. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Black Eyed Peas, Taylor Swift, Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Fall Out Boy

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Dur an Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inﬂight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on page 95 and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR U2, Dave Matthews Band, Neil Young, Coldplay SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals. It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke BLUES From the Delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of authentic blues.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton TODAY’S R&B HITS R&B Hits from the ‘80s, ‘90s and today. Sounds that reach your Heart & Soul. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Mary J. Blige, Alicia Keys, Charlie Wilson, Jill Scott, Maxwell

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Kenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway plays the very latest New Country, along with the biggest hits of the past few years.

MODERN ADULT HITS It’ s the ’90s and now! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and John Mayer. Feel the Pulse of adult pop!

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Weezer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World ADULT ALBUM ROCK New music and classic tracks from artists who’ve stood the test of time, plus quality rock from credible new artists.

ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS

CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s.

The Blend is the soundtrack of your life—a great mix of Lite pop hits from the ’70s through today; never any rap or rock.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Daughtry, No Doubt, Colbie Caillat, Plain Whit e T’s

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants

’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits the British invasion and Woodstock with DJ Cousin Brucie.

NEW ALTERNATIVE The lat est alternative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it.

United Mileage Plus members can enjoy all of our exclusive entertainment anywhere and earn 4,000 bonus United Mileage Plus miles.* Visit www.xmradio.com/ua for full details.

Get commercial-free music, live sports, news and exclusive entertainment through your existing vehicle radio with easy Do-It-Yourself installation. MUSIC · SPORTS · TALK · NEWS · ENTERTAINMENT EVERYTHING WORTH LISTENING TO IS ON *OFFER DETAILS: To qualify for Mileage Plus miles on eligible radios, you must buy a prepaid recurring minimum Quarterly subscription plan to any XM Package (excluding A La Carte, Mostly Music, and News, Talk & Sports), together with the eligible radio by 5/31/10. You must activate your XM subscription on that radio no later than 5/31/10 with a valid credit card; pay an activation fee of $14.99 and any other fees and taxes that will apply to your subscription, maintain at least 12 months of continuous service, and retain that credit card on the account for automatic recurring service billing. Failure to maintain 12 months of continuous “minimum service commitment” for each radio will result in a $75 early cancellation fee per radio. Service will automatically renew for additional periods of the same length as the Plan you choose, at the then current renewal rate unless you cancel. Hardware sold separately. This offer may be modiﬁed or terminated at any time. Pricing, programming, schedule, and channel assignments are subject to change. Check xmradio.com for the latest updates. Subscription governed by XM Customer Agreement available at xmradio.com, except that terms regarding an early termination fee for this offer shall supersede. SIRIUS|XM U.S. Satellite Service available only to those at least 18 years of age in the 48 contiguous USA and DC, with SIRIUS also available in PR (with coverage limitations) Allow 6-8 weeks after purchase for miles to be posted to member’s account. Miles accrued and awards issued are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus program. United, its subsidiaries, afﬁliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies and partners. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. For complete details about the Mileage Plus program, visit united.com.

29190

EARN 4,000 MILES

© 2010 SIRIUS XM Radio Inc. SIRIUS, XM and all related marks and logos are trademarks of SIRIUS XM Radio Inc. and its subsidiaries. Apple, iPhone, iPod and iPod touch are registered trademarks of Apple Inc. All other marks, channel names and logos are the property of their respective owners. All rights reserved.

Portland Vancouver Seattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs HoustonSan Antonio KansasWorthFortDallas/CityOmahaOklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Ontario Kahului MoinesMinneapoliDesSpringfiel Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe CalgaryEdmonton Winnipeg Jackson Hole Kona 050100150 Miles 050100150200 Kilometers Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle Fargo Gillette Rock Springs CrescentEurekaCity AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ CasperFresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperial Monterey Oxnard San Luis SantaObispoMaria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls Idaho Falls KalispellAnchorage Puerto Vallarta Los Cabos Mexico City Billings Victoria Helena FallsKlamath North Bend Saskatoon LakeMoses ReginaMidland/OdessaDurango HarlingenBrownsvilleCorpusChristiMcAllenLaredo Kingman Pierre ScottsbluffChadronAllianceLiberal Kearney Laramie Huron McCookDodgeCityGreat BendGarden City Hays Salina Manhattan Alamosa PuebloFarmingtonCortezTellurideLakePage/Powell Show Low Prescott Moab WorlandSheridan DickinsonMiles SidneyCityWillistonWolfGlasgowPoint Lewistown MercedVisalia Hilo Kapalua IslandGrand Vernal North Platte Cheyenne Riverton ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United/United Express Route Cities served by United and United Express Cities served by Star Alliance or partner Code Share UNITED HUB Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

SpartanburgGreenville/WestOrlandoMiamiPalmBeachCharlestonSavannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg ClevelandCharlotte Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)Beach Toronto Albany Atlanta Boston ColumbusColumbiaNashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland Newark Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem LexingtonGrandRapids Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodBuffalo/NiagaraFalls Knoxville Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis eapolis Dayton HarrisburgAllentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite LansingMidland/Saginaw Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeStateWilkesScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) San Juan Peoria AshevilleAugusta Halifax Ottawa Pensacola Tallahassee Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ JacksonvilleCorningIthaca/ Long Island/Islip New Bern Tri-Cities Regional BinghamtonWilmington 0 100200300400 Miles 0100200300400500600 Kilometers Newport News/Williamsburg Greenville RockLittle Antigua Punta Cana St. Kitts Providenciales St. Lucia Cozumel Santo Domingo St. Thomas St. Maarten Montego Bay Altoona ParkersburgBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburgMorgantown FreeportNassau Grand Cayman Hamilton London Duluth Chattanooga BiloxiGulfport/ Huntington New Haven Williamsport City JacksonMobileMontgomery NewburghSalisbury Ft. BeachWalton Florence PaducahMuskegon RougeBaton North Eleuthera Eau Claire Houghton Key West BurlingtonWaynesville 123HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

Sydney Brisbane CairnsPerthShanghaiBeijing San FranciscoFuzhouShenyangChengduChongqingGuangzhouShenzhen Los Angeles Queenstown Wellington Seattle Rarotonga Cook OsakaTokyoSendaiNagoyaHiroshima Okinawa Seoul Sapporo Fukuoka Hong Kong Delhi Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Auckland Melbourne DunedinChristchurchNadi ApiaHonolulu Pusan BangkokHanoi Denver Dallas Singapore Guatemal Taipei Kota Kinabalu Phuket Komatsu Baotou Hangzhou Harbin WuhanNanjingQingdaoXiamen Kuala Lumpur Kolkata Dalian Saipan Rotorua Guam ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES United Route Code Share route serviced by a Star Alliance member Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

PhiladelphiaMiami Aruba New YorkBoston Frankfurt Washington,CityBelize DC Rio de Janeiro Copenhagen Chicago Newark Addis Ababa Paris Chennai (Madras) Tel Aviv Kuwait Lagos MunichJohannesburgHouston Accra MumbaiBangalore Rome Delhi Amman Alma-AtaAmsterdamCape Town Madrid Stockholm London Dubai Abu Dhabi Muscat Vienna AtlantaDetroit WarsawShannon Buenos Aires temalaSalvadorCity Brussels CairoAsmara Bahrain Dakar Lisbon EastDurbanLondon Porto Hyderabad Orlando Tbilisi Port Elizabeth Lima TegucigalpaCuzcoSanPedroSulaManagua PeshawarLahoreIslamabadCochinColomboTrivandrumLiberia Doha Abuja Karachi Geneva CuritibaBrasilia Fortaleza Manaus PortoBeloAlegreSalvadorHorizonteIguassu Falls Recife Dublin Moscow Charlotte JeddahRiyadh Sal Istanbul Belfast Manchester BirminghamBristol EdinburghBarcelonaGlasgow OsloHamburgMilanBerlin PanamaSantiagoCity Montevideo 125 Budapest LisbonPorto Turin Lyon Geneva LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste Istanbul Bucharest Kiev Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen GrazInnsbruck LinzKlagenfurtSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Ankara Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork AdanAntalya Izmir Leipzig HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

on United or one of the Star

partners

show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Language Assistance (Asian) 800-426-5560 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options. Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced. DOMESTIC

INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

your

Reservations 800-UNITED-1united.com (800-864-8331) Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award 800-UNITED-1united.com/mileageplusTravel(800-864-8331) Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service 800-537-7783united.com/chase Baggage Services 800-UNITED-1united.com/baggage(800-864-8331) Refunds 800-UNITED-1united.com/refunds(800-864-8331) TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards. Flight canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we Whether next flight is Alliance around your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps

the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 127–130 to plan

127HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010 WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.IAD Concourse A Concourse C Air Canada ConcourseConcourseD B SouthAustrianContinentalANAAirlinesSASAfricanAirwaysUSAirwaysLufthansa MAIN TERMINAL Z GATES C2 C12 C18 C Connector Tunnel Train C24 C1A2A4A6 A14 A32 B37B79A1A3A5C9 C17 C27 D1D3D2 D8 D30 CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.ORD TERMINALONE TERMINALTWO TERMINALTHREE Elevated Airport Transit System (ATS) PedestrianTunnel TERMINALFIVE InternationalArrivals Concourse F US Airways Concourse M Concourse E Air Canada Concourse B ContinentalLufthansa Concourse C ANA C1 B1 F1 F4 F11 F14 F10F6 E1 B6 B9 B18B14 B22 C17 C19 C18C24C32 C16 C8 Shuttle runs between Gates C9 and E3. E3 C9 United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In United Easy Check-In Medical Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.DEN 57 TERMINALWEST TERMINALEAST Concourse C US Airways Concourse B Concourse A Air ContinentalCanadaLufthansa 2528261516 3736 35 41 3938 4950 60 80 919281 57 77 SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.SFO 72 Concourse G United Air New LufthansaANAZealandSingapore Concourse A Asiana Concourse B ContinentalUSAirways Concourse E Air CanadaConcourse F TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 3 80798988 81 73International Terminal Secure Connector 76A78A 71 MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 127–130 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. TOM INTERNATIONALBRADLEYTERMINAL ThaiLufthansaAirwaysANASingaporeAsianaSwiss TERMINAL 3TERMINAL 2 Air Canada Air New Zealand TERMINAL 1 US Airways TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6 Continental TERMINAL 7TERMINAL 8 67A69A 68B64 75A71A 7672 888070A 124B LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.LAX United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Easy Check-In United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station United Easy Check-In Medical Center United Gate InternationalAreaArrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Train Stop United Easy Check-In

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 2 37 39 43 56 50 4236 LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTLHR 129HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTFRA B300-B303 B332-B340 TERMINAL ONE Pier A, Level 3 Gates A51-A65 Pier B Pier C C5 B20 B24 B26 B28 B48 B46 B44 C1 C7 C8 Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel Train to Terminal 2 Lufthansa Tower Lounge Level 5 TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTNRT Satellite 3 Satellite Satellite2 1 Satellite 5 Satellite 4 TERMINAL 1 313743 47 38 32 North Wing South WingPedestrianTunnel Third Floor Zone A ZoneFourthD Floor United Gate Area United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Gate InterterminalAreaTrain Stop Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Medical Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS STAR ALLIANCE United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In Medical Center US AIRWAYS HUBS CONTINENTAL HUBS CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLT PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHX PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHL CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLE B3C2 D2 D6 D10 D14 D17 D21 D25 D28 C7C14 C16C19 C22 C25 C29 C10 C4 Concourse C Continental Concourse B United Concourse A Concourse D Continental Pedestrian Tunnel NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTEWR AirTrain AirTrain connects to Amtrak and New Jersey Transit. 130127136 102101115 72 887571 B3 B2 B1 A1A2 A380 98 92 TERMINAL A ContinentalUnited TERMINAL B TERMINAL C Continental HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORTIAH TerminaLink connects B, C, D and E. It is above ground transportation between terminals while inside security. TerminaLink Shuttle Bus TERMINAL A United TERMINAL B TERMINALS A-E Continental TERMINAL CTERMINAL E TERMINAL D A25-30A3-15A17-24 B76-83 B84-91 C34-42C14-23 E1-9 E10-14E15-24B68-75 B60-67 Concourse A United Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D ConcourseConcoursesE B-E US Airways 24 Continuous shuttle bus pickup and drop-off between Gates F10 and C16. Concourse A West Concourse A East Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D United Concourses A, B, C & F US Airways Concourse E Concourse F 1 7 13 To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside. Concourse A Concourse B Concourse B International TERMINAL 4 US Airways TERMINAL 2 United 71

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. Earn or redeem Mileage Plus miles when you ﬂy on any Star Alliance member carrier. The ﬂight miles you earn qualify toward elite status for next year. As a Mileage Plus elite member, your status is recognized on all the Star Alliance carriers. For more information, go to united.com/staralliance.

STAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost every Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles you earn will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus. See united.com/airpartners for details.

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards—upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the ﬁrst truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 18,900 daily ﬂights to 983 destinations in 169 countries.

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS

Aer Lingus Air

HawaiianGreatEmiratesContinentalDolomitiConnectionLakesAirlines

Island Air Jet TAMTACAQatarAirwaysAirwaysGroup You can earn and redeem miles on many of our Regional Alliance Partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our Regional Alliance Partners.

131HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®. Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

REGIONAL ALLIANCE PARTNERS

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONSELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION

poisons, infectious substances NOTE

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name. SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___ ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País donde vives 11. País en el que abordaron 12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 13. Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año) 14. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 15. Ciudad y Estado 16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 17. Dirección de correo electrónico 18. Apellido 19. Nombre 20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 21. Pais de ciudadanía ENGLISH Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta. HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage. FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other ArrivalSideRecord 000000000 00 Admission Number Departure Record 000000000 00 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded 12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY) 14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection 15. City and State 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

Please note new controls on the import of meat, ﬁsh, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONS

FlightDate:Port: No./Ship Name: Paperwork Reduction Act Statement: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0111. The estimated average time to complete this application is 8 minutes per respondent. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, Asset Management, 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington DC 20229

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK 133HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2010

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender. to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. Welcome to the United States I-94W Nonimmigrant Visa Waiver Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by every nonimmigrant visitor not in possession of a visitor’s visa, who is a national of one of the countries enumerated in 8 CFR 217. The airline can provide you with the current list of eligible countries. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. USE ENGLISH This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 15) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). The reverse side of this form must be signed and dated. Children under the age of fourteen must have their form signed by a parent or Itemguardian.9If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94W (05/08) CBP Form I-94W (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side 00000000000 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. City Where You Boarded 12. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 13. City and State 14. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 15. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for Countriesentry.that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom.

Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No If you answered to any of the above, please contact the American Embassy BEFORE you travel to the U.S. since you may be refused admission into the United States. Family Name (Please print) First Name Country of CitizenshipSignatureWAIVER OF RIGHTS: hereby waive any rights to review or appeal of U.S. Customs and Border Protection officer’s determination as to my admissibility, or to contest, other than on the basis of an application for asylum, any action in deportation. certify that have read and understand all the questions and statements on this form. The answers have furnished are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief.

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

*Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Do any of the following apply to you? (Answer Yes or No) Do you have a communicable disease; physical or mental disorder, or are you a drug abuser or addict? Have you ever been arrested or convicted for an offense or crime involving moral turpitude or a violation related to controlled substance; or been arrested or convicted for two or more offenses for which the aggregate sentence to confinement was five years or more; or been a controlled substance trafficker, or are you seeking entry to engage in criminal or immoral activities? Have you ever been or are you now involved in espionage or sabotage; or in terrorist activities; or genocide; or between 1933 and 1945 were involved, in any way, in persecutions associated with Nazi Germany or its allies? Are you seeking to work in the U.S.; or have ever been excluded and deported; or been previously removed from the United States; or procured or attempted to procure a visa or entry into the U.S. by fraud or Havemisrepresentation?youeverdetained, retained or withheld custody of child from U.S. citizen granted custody of the child? Have you ever been denied a U.S. visa or entry into the U.S. or had U.S. visa cancelled? If yes, when? ______________________ where? _________________________ Have you ever asserted immunity from prosecution? Yes NoG.F.E.D.C.A.

Admission Number Government Use Only Departure Record VISA WAIVER 00000000000 Admission Number VISA WAIVER 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oﬁcial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Departure Record Important – Retain this permit in your possession; you must surrender it when you leave the U.S. Failure to do so may delay your entry into the U.S. in the future. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. only until the date written on this form. To remain past this date, without permission from Department of Homeland Security authorities, is violation of the law. Surrender this permit when you leave the U.S.: - By sea or air, to the transportation line; - Across the Canadian border, to Canadian Official; - Across the Mexican border, to U.S. Official. Warning: You may not accept unauthorized employment; or attend school; or represent the foreign information media during your visit under this program. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. for 90 days or less. You may not apply for: 1) a change of nonimmigrant status; 2) adjustment of status to temporary or permanent resident, unless eligible under section 201(b) of the INA; or 3) an extension of stay. Violation of these terms will subject you to deportation. Any previous violation of this program, including having previously overstayed on this program without a proper DHS authorization, will result in finding of inadmissibility as outlined in Section 217 of the Immigration and Nationality Act.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , firmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario. Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país. Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino Unido. *Los ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos. Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País de residencia 11. País en el que abordó 12. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 15. Dirección de correo electrónico SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas? Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales? Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa? Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique? Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde? G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

CROSSWORD IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 57 ACROSS 1. Old Italian coin 5. That girl 8. Huge hit 13. Junk email 17. Like some humor 19. Mouse’s place 20. Ottoman title 21. Pond organism 22. Washing clothes and bed linens 24. Not a liability 25. Watered-down 26. Harp’s cousin 27. Court call 29. Trainee 31. Big galoot 32. Any observancecustomaryorpractice 35. Sailor’s cry 37. Issue 39. Cereal grain 42. Fiber optic or coaxial 43. Egyptian king 44. Corduroy feature 45. Silver-gilt e.g. 47. Harness part 49. Retailers’ competition 53. Operatic solo 54. Filmmaker Spike 56. A large amount 57. Lubricate 58. Appoint 59. Bodily fluid 61. French way 63. Haze 64. Mellows 65. Trade stoppage 69. Unrestrained revelry 71. Lady’s man 72. Humdrum 74. Side road 76. A pariah who is avoided by others 78. Before long 80. Indian prince 82. Critical interpretor of a text 84. Cunning 85. Decade 86. Outrage 87. Church song 92. From the beginning 93. Have or possess 94. It may need massaging 96. Flightless bird 99. Chocolate cookie 100. Living in a particular place 102. Venus de Milo’s lack 104. Uncultured 106. Bottom 107. Car protector 108. Flush 110. Donkey 111. Not present 114. Sub station? 115. Maintenance 117. Yoga class need 118. Get into shape 120. Starbucks offering 122. Gelatin substitute 126. Armor plate 128. Blacksmith’s block 130. Serving to set in motion 133. Wallop 134. Put on 135. Not brilliant 136. Slender 137. Unite 138. Redhead’s dye 139. Squeeze (out) 140. Sew up DOWN 1. Make lower or quieter 2. Kind of tube 3. Relieve from 4. High card 5. Helix 6. Manager 7. Lip 8. Hot springs 9. Team symbolic figure 10. Examine 11. Shake off 12. A very harsh letter 13. Toothed tool 14. Folds 15. Obviously surprised 16. Manufacturer 17. Feverish 18. Light beam 23. Russian cash 28. Usually expressed as a quotient 30. Toiletry item 33. Rocks, to a bartender 34. Follow 36. Track down 38. Adolescent 39. Track shape 40. Bird of prey’s nest 41. Barber’s job 44. Twist and squirm 46. Tourist’s aid 48. Plaintive piece 49. Inept 50. Bet 51. Prayer’s end 52. Lie 55. Pitcher’s stat 60. Female chicken 62. Concentrated, in a way 63. Vestibule 66. Disfigure 67. Conspicuous 68. Be in debt 70. “Are we there ?” 72. Cartons 73. anyway 75. Adage 77. Get-up-and-go 78. Many miles away 79. the wiser 81. Witty remark 83. “Fancy that!” 88. The sun 89. Kind of rug 90. Marked down 91. Forest growth 93. Miliaria 94. of Sandwich 95. Holy 97. Grocery store 98. Push 101. Impression 103. A Russian artificial satellite 105. Three-way joint BRUCEGREGBYCROSSWORDPUZZLESPUZPUZ©107. Harmless 109. When a machinefactoryisfunctioning 111. Tiny organism 112. Deli item 113. Motionless 114. Parlor piece 116. Eucharistic plate 119. Poker pot starter 121. Adjutant 123. Olympian’s quest 124. Public hanging? 125. Bar stock 127. Farm pen 129. Grazing locale 131. Any doctrine 132. Ancient greeting 134 APRIL 2010 | UNITED .COM AFTER MONEY ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD

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138APRIL 2010 | UNITED.COM “We always hope to ﬁnd time to read, but with the kids that doesn’t always work out,” says Sven Peters. SVEN PETERS / 38 TAMARA PETERS / 37 ALYSHA PETERS / 4 JORDI PETERS / 2 WHY WE’RE TRAVELING / SVEN: We’re going to Charleston, South Carolina, for a home exchange. The people who own the house we’re staying in will be at our place in Holland. WHY CHARLESTON? / TAMARA: It was an accident! I was looking for places close to New York and Florida, and I mistakenly wrote to a family in Charleston. They really wanted to do an exchange, and we decided it would be a good idea. NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT / SVEN: Drawing paper and coloring books to keep the kids occupied. We always hope we’ll have time to read something ourselves, but with the kids that doesn’t always work out. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON GETTING TO KNOW YOU in transit

EasyPurchasePAYMENT Only credit/debit cards are accepted. Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. SPIRITS, WINE and BEER AVAILABLE ON ALL FLIGHTS, ALL DAY SNACKBOXES AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS UNITED ECONOMY - NORTH AMERICA WELCOME ABOARD! We are pleased to offer Choice Menu meal and snack selections for purchase in United Economy® on most North America flights, excluding United Express. This month we are happy to introduce the Eat For Good SM snackbox. With every purchase of an Eat For Good snackbox, United will donate $ 1.00 to support a critical cause-related organization. Enjoy the service and thank you for flying with United. CLASSIC $ 6 Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips Oreo Cookies Jelly Belly Gourmet Jelly Beans Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers Sparrer Beef Salami Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread Pepperidge Farm Crackers LUXE $ 7 Rondelé Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread Pepperidge Farm Crackers Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips Wild Garden Hummus Dip Oloves Mediterranean or Vinaigrette Olives Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks Asher’s Dark Chocolate Pretzel EAT FOR GOOD $ 7* * $1 donated to Feeding America® Bumble Bee Chicken Salad Pepperidge Fa rm Crackers Kettle Classics Plain Chips High Energy Trail Mix Vitalit Antioxidant Dri nk Mix Immaculate Baking Chocolate Chip Cookies NEW PREMIUM COCKTAILS $ 8 Trader Vic’s Mai Tai (served on Hawaii flights to/from the mainland) SPIRITS $ 6 Bacardi CanadianRumClub Reserve Whisky Dewar’s White Label Scotch Finlandia Vodka Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey Tanqueray Gin LIQUEURS $ 6 Bailey’s Irish Cream Courvoisier VSOP Cognac Kahlúa PREMIUM WINE $ 7 - $ 8 RED - Cheviot Bridge Shiraz 2008 South Eastern Australia $ 7 WHITE - Cheviot Bridge Chardonnay 2008 Adelaide Hills Australia $ 7 WINE $ 6 RED - Redwood Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California WHITE - Redwood Creek Chardonnay 2007 California BEER $ 6 Miller Genuine Draft Miller Lite

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CHICKEN CAESAR SALAD $ 9

Specially selected cheeses including monte rey jack, havarti dill and cheddar, dried cranberries, almonds and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.

BREAKFAST ON FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS DEPARTING BEFORE 10 AM LUNCH/DINNER ON FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS DEPARTING BETWEEN 10 AM -8 PMwrapchickenthaicroissantcheeseandham À LA CARTE $ 3 AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS Assorted Potato Chips Ghirardelli Luxe Milk Chocolate Bar Walkers Chocolate Chip or Shortbread Cookies RedBull Energy DrinkNEW

United does not serve peanuts as snacks or use peanuts or peanut oils in foods served on our ﬂights. However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in facilities that also produce items containing peanuts or peanut oils, and we do have snack mixes that contain other tree nuts, such as almonds and pistachios.

THAI CHICKEN WRAP $ 9

Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, julienned carrots, red and yellow bell pepper strips and Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, shredded parmesan cheese on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, served with classic caesar dressing and croutons on the side.

Flavorful ham and swiss cheese on a croissant with dijonnaise sauce (served cold).

Your feedback is welcomed via ualsurvey.com w ithin seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s ﬂight.

ASSORTED CHEESE TRAY $ 6

CONTEMPORARY American Cuisine

Enjoy Trader Vic’s cuisine in United First and Business on select flights to Hawaii and Asia. Visit united.com for more details.

UNITED FIRST, UNITED BUSINESS AND UNITED ECONOMY BEER Beer offerings are subject to availability. A selection of regional beers is offered on some International flights. LIQUEURS ONLY ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

WINES FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS (DOMESTIC) You will be offered a choice of red and white wines. may include the following: WHITE UNITED ECONOMY® ALL FLIGHTS ECONOMY PREMIUM WINES (DOMESTIC ONLY)

BEVERAGES

UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS CABINS

SPIRITS

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard.

DOUG FROST United has partnered with world renowned Master Sommelier and Master of Wine, Doug Frost, to supply the perfect selections for all of our new menu offerings. With a new food philosophy centered around contemporary American cuisine, United’s premium onboard dining is being elevated to new heights. Along with our culinary partners Charlie Trotter, Trader Vic’s, and Master Sommelier Doug Frost, we’re offering traditional dishes with a modern twist, while also offering regional and ethnic items. The new menu is built around fresh, local, ingredients whenever possible, combined in innovative new offerings.Premium inflight dining with a modern twist...

UNITED

CHARLIE TROTTER Charlie Trotter’s namesake Chicago establishment is one of the world’s most-awarded restaurants, having been named, among others, “The Best Restaurant in the World for Wine & Food” ( Wine Spectator, 1998), and “Outstanding Restaurant” (The James Beard Foundation, 2000). Restaurant Magazine has voted it one of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” every year since 2004. Chef Trotter has designed a new menu especially for United, available on most United First ® and United Business ® outbound international flights.

RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK . Beverage service is available on most United flights. Alcoholic beverage selections vary according to cabin class and international or domestic flight status. Alcoholic beverages are available for $6 – $8 on most flights.

NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES

TRADER VIC’S Selections from the legendary Trader Vic’s will be available in United First and United Business class on many of our Pacific and Asian routes and on United First class between Hawaii and the mainland. On any given flight you could enjoy items like Sesame Pink Peppercorn Salmon with Lime Leaf Beurre Blanc Sauce, or Chicken with Shiitake Mushrooms in Mango Chili Stir Fry.

UNITED

Selections

RED

Please refer to the printed menu. SPIRITS, LIQUEURS

BEER,

Forwww.gozerog.commoreinformation,flightdatesandlocationsvisit(703)524-7172(888)664-7284info@gozerog.comLIKENOTHINGONEARTHtheweightlessexperienceYouropportunitytoflylikeasuperheroandfloatlikeanastronautishere!ReserveyourseataboardG-FORCEONEtoexperiencetheamazingfeelingofweightlessness!LIMITEDTIMEOFFER:BookTwoSeatsandreceive$1000off.WhenbookingenterormentionPromotionCode“United410”.ValidthroughMay31,2010.UPCOMINGFLIGHTS:+Washington,DC+Honolulu,HI+LasVegas,NV+CapeCanaveral,FL+Seattle,WAandmore…

DENVER

www.TheTopPhysicians.com

Castle Connolly – America’s Top Doctors

NEW YORK

Castle Connolly – America’s Top Doctors Deborah J. White, MD 8896 East Becker www.DrWhitePlasticSurgery.com480-614-3535Scottsdale,LaneAZ

Phoenix Magazine – Top Doctors Issue

SAN DIEGO Steven R. Cohen, MD 8899 University Center Lane San Diego, www.FacesPlus.com858-453-7224CA

Dr. Steven Bloch Highland Park, IL

LOS ANGELES W. Grant Stevens, MD 4644 Lincoln Boulevard Marina Del Rey, www.DrGrantStevens.com877-289-1522CA

James P. Anthony, MD 450 Sutter Street San Francisco, www.DrJamesAnthony.com415-395-7323CA

Castle Connolly – America’s Top Doctors

New York Magazine – Best Doctors Issue

Castle Connolly – America’s Top Doctors

SAN FRANCISCO

John E. Sherman, MD 1016 Fifth Avenue New York, www.ShermanPlasticSurgery.com212-535-2300NY

THESE DOCTORS ARE AMONG THE INSURGEONSPLASTICBESTAMERICA

Castle Connolly – America’s Top Doctors Stacey N. Folk, MD 4545 East 9th www.FolkPlasticSurgery.com303-321-6608Denver,AvenueCO

PHOENIX

CHICAGO Steven Bloch, MD 1160 Park Avenue West Highland Park, www.BodyByBloch.com847-432-0840IL

Each doctor has been peer-nominated and selected by the nation’s leading providers of information on top doctors. All doctors are board certiﬁed by the American Board of Plastic Surgery (ABPS).

United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine April 2010

Articles inside

In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

Artifact A souvenir from the fi eld

Diary Two teenage friends hatch a brilliant idea to liven up their

Sports With the start of baseball season comes a whole lot of hooey. We dispel some of the

Sound Country star Merle Haggard is still at it with another outspoken album. // By Alan Light

Food & Drink Chilling out and digging in at Gelato University.

Industry A group of Polaroid devotees revives the brand. What will develop next?

Vision The Wire's David Simon gives a sneak peek at his new

Wheels The Mercedes-Benz hybrid makes it a little easier being green. // By Mike Guy

Print After a frightening diagnosis author Bruce Feiler fi nds surrogate fathers for his little

Whereabouts Choreographer Twyla Tharp steps lively in the Big Apple.

Style Not content merely to clothe people anymore, H&M launches a home line.

Connections Mileage Plus miles contribute to warm, fuzzy feelings.

Goods

Notes From All Over A lonely

Whirlwind Five hours in Washington, D.C.

Comments

Voices United conserves its energy

Hero Veronique Matthews enlists miniature horses in an effort to alleviate chronic pain.