4x4 Mart Winter

PARIS MOTOR SHOW NEXT YEAR’S MODELS REVEALED WINTER 2010 • £2.50

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BUYING • SELLING • OWNING HYBRID ON TEST

PORSCHE CAYENNE

USED FREELANDER 2 TODAY’S BEST SECONDHAND BUY?

GET OFF-ROAD! ESSENTIAL ADVICE FOR FIRST-TIMERS

QUAD UPDATE

NEW 2011 MODELS

SUZUKI VITARA

PART 1 INSIDE

CLASSIC REVISITED

4x4 EVENTS

MORE THAN 1,000 4x4s FOR SALE FIND YOUR NEXT 4x4 INSIDE

WHAT, WHERE, WHEN

4x4 Mart • Winter 2010 • £2.50

PUBLISHING EXCELLENCE THROUGH EXPERIENCE

BMW X5 2001 £8,950

Honda CR-V 2005 £10,400

Land Rover Discovery 2007 £18,950

Nissan X-Trail 2006 £10,995

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4x4 MART | WINTER 2010

BUYING USED: LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2

FREELANDER REINVENTED

Land Rover’s smash-hit Freelander was reinvented for 2006 – and the resulting Freelander 2 has been a big seller ever since. Tom Phillips looks at the pros and cons of buying used

T

he success of the original Freelander is well documented, Land Rover’s first foray into the compact-SUV sector being a top seller throughout most of its long career. But no matter how many improvements were made to it over the years, Land Rover knew the Freelander had to be replaced at some point. And that point

came in late 2006, when the all-new Freelander 2 was unveiled.

Styling-wise, this was an evolution of the original Gerry McGovern design rather than a revolution. Yes, it was more modern and sharper looking, but the Freelander 2 was still obviously influenced by its predecessor – and rightly so. Length was up by around

50mm, but more significant was the 109mm increase in width, resulting in a more substantial appearance on the road, as well as aiding both space and handling.

The wheelbase also grew – by 105mm – to enable Land Rover to offer more space inside than the old model, particularly in the rear. As well as there being extra room for passengers in the back, the boot grew by a useful 30 per cent, now offering 755 litres of useable load area – boosted to 1,670 litres with the back seats folded flat. This time round, the spare wheel lived beneath the boot floor.

There was a choice of two engines

with the Freelander 2, the more powerful being a Volvo-supplied sixcylinder 3.2-litre petrol unit, supplied in auto-only guise and mainly for American consumption. It produced 230bhp and was a particularly compact design; aided by its rear-mounted belt drive, it easily slotted beneath the Freelander 2’s clamshell bonnet.

Most popular engine choice, however, was the Ford-PSA 2.2-litre Td4 turbo-diesel, usually mated to a sixspeed manual transmission. Producing 158bhp at 4000rpm, it boasted much more torque than the petrol (295lb.ft. compared with 234lb.ft.) and had the latest common-rail fuel-injection for

efficiency. And efficient it most certainly was: the petrol lump averaged 25.2mpg, while the diesel achieved 37.7mpg on the official ‘combined’ cycle. Both, meanwhile, could tug a braked trailer weighing up to 2000kg.

Engines were installed transversely (yes, even the six-cylinder) with an end-on gearbox. A bevel drive sent torque to the front diff and – via a propshaft – to the rear. This time round, though, Land Rover used a Haldex centre diff with multiplate clutch and computer control (actually mounted in the same housing as the rear diff ). Much more sophisticated than before, it also did away with the

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4x4 MART | WINTER 2010

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OFF-ROAD DRIVING

PART 1

HEADING OFF-ROAD Thinking of heading offroad for the first time?

Rod Jones offers some practical advice on how to get started

I

t’s become a bit of a cliché in recent years that the nearest most 4x4s get to going off-road is mounting the kerb outside Sainsbury’s, but in many cases it’s actually (and rather sadly) true. So why not break with suburban tradition and really get to know your 4x4 where it truly belongs: away from the black stuff.

However, before you head for the hills (or woods, or farmland, or disused quarry…), you need to get an idea of what your particular make and model of 4x4 is capable of in the rough. The last thing you want to do is inflict some kind of major damage on it, so the first piece of advice has to be: keep your aspirations realistic.

If, for example, you own a familystyle soft-roader that was designed more for the tarmac than the mountainside (Honda HR-V and Toyota RAV4 spring to mind), don’t expect to be able to tackle the kind of serious off-road terrain normally

reserved for the Land Rover Defenders of this world. On the other hand, don’t assume that most affordable 4x4s were originally built solely for on-road use – as many owners of elderly Suzuki SJs and Vitaras, Vauxhall Fronteras and Jeep Cherokees will happily confirm.

With a basic but effective mechanical layout, two-range transfer box, separate chassis and enough ground clearance to get them over most obstacles, they’re capable of impressive feats when the right kind of off-road tyres are fitted.

DRIVING OFF-ROAD Ah yes, tyres. Most new 4x4s come with either standard road-going rubber or, if you’re lucky, what’s known as ‘allterrain’ tyres. Both of these are great for road use, and the latter can also tackle reasonable off-road situations – but they do have their limitations.

This means that extremely muddy areas should be avoided as you’ll almost certainly get stuck at some point. The obvious solution to this, of course, is to invest in some proper off-road tyres for your 4x4, which needn’t be as expensive as many people assume – and we’ll be covering this subject (plus all the other off-road gear you’re likely to need) in the December issue of 4x4 Mart.

Other areas to consider are your

4x4’s ground clearance (the amount of space beneath its lowest point), as well as approach, departure and ramp break-over angles. These refer to (in order) the steepness of a slope you can drive up to without catching the front bumper; the steepness of a slope you can drive from without catching the rear bumper; and the angle of a crest that can be taken without grounding the vehicle in the middle. These are critical factors for serious off-road enthusiasts, with poor approach and departure angles in particular seriously limiting the kind of inclines and off-road challenges you can enjoy.

Generally, the shorter your vehicle’s wheelbase and the smaller the front and rear overhangs, the better it is for off-roading.

Assuming the 4x4 you’ve bought for off-roading has a dual-range transfer box fitted, always engage low-ratio four-wheel drive before tackling any ground that looks remotely soft or rough. The control it gives is immense and, if ground conditions change suddenly, you’ll have time to react. And always travel slowly off-road; speed, except in very specific circumstances, is unnecessary, uncomfortable and can do untold damage to your vehicle.

Before you even get that far though, a crucial piece of driving advice is to always keep your thumbs on the

outside of the steering wheel when driving off-road; this means that if the wheel is suddenly ‘tugged’ whilst crossing particularly rough terrain, your thumbs won’t get broken in the process. Be ready to grip the wheel firmly should the need arise, but don’t fight with it as you head off-road; smooth, steady progress is the order of the day. And before you even think about tackling any particular offroad course, make sure (kitted out in suitable clothing and boots) that you literally walk the course first; there’s no finer way of getting to know its biggest challenges than by covering it on foot.

When tackling a moderately rough track or a dry field in any 4x4, you will probably find high-ratio allwheel drive more than adequate for your needs. For anything more severe though, you will need to select the low-ratio setting on your transfer box, as this will enable you to make slow, low-geared progress over some surprisingly challenging terrain.

Which gear you choose to pull away in – and sometimes even continue to drive in – when off-roading will depend on the type of 4x4 you’re piloting. Fairly high-revving petrolengined off-roaders will be most

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4x4 MART | WINTER 2010

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CLASSIC 4x4

VITARA ADVENTURE It’s 22 years since the Suzuki Vitara was launched, creating a whole new market for compact and competent 4x4s.

Paul Guinness looks back on its successful career

D

espite the success of its diminutive SJ series, which had become increasingly popular among image-conscious trendsetters throughout much of the 1980s, Suzuki knew that it had to offer something a tad more grown up and refined if its 4x4 success was to continue. What it needed was a compact model with a pleasing driving style, a trendy new look and affordable pricing. And that’s exactly what arrived in 1988, with the launch of the all-new Suzuki Vitara.

The Vitara was like no other Suzuki 4x4. This wasn’t a model developed with commercial use primarily in mind. And neither was it a roughand-ready workhorse that had been

cosmetically dressed-up for the private market. This was a 4x4 designed from scratch for people who wanted to drive it on the road – to work, to the shops, to school, on holiday – and who wanted to look good in the process.

And it was a 4x4 that demanded fewer compromises as a driver’s vehicle than any of its predecessors.

For a start, the original Vitara of ’88 was superb looking. It was just what the 4x4 market needed, thanks to sharp, eye-catching styling that was usefully longer and (crucially, from a handling point of view) wider than the SJ. The world had never seen a compact 4x4 quite like this before – one that was styled almost for styling’s

sake rather than looking as though it had been constructed from a pile of perfectly square cardboard boxes.

The timing couldn’t have been better.

Suzuki knew other manufacturers were to follow suit, including Daihatsu who were readying their all-new Sportrak model for launch in early 1989. So by getting there first and introducing the Vitara to UK and European customers in the autumn of ’88, a good deal of thunder-stealing was achieved.

Just one version of the Vitara was available at launch: the 1.6 JLX threedoor hard-top, sold in the UK at exactly £9000. Most expensive SJ of the time was the 413 VJX at £7399, which at least ensured there was no

chance of the two ranges overlapping.

So what else was available for the same money as that first Vitara? Just £1 cheaper in Britain was the Subaru 1.6 4WD DL Estate – but as this tended to be bought by farmers who cared little about trendy styling, it could hardly be called a real rival. And neither could much else, with most compact 4x4s being both drastically different in price and designed with off-road prowess higher up the list of priorities than on-road enjoyment.

With the benefit of hindsight, it’s easy to see that the trend-setting Vitara was the car that really got the affordable ‘lifestyle’ 4x4 market under way throughout Europe. At the time,

though, its future success wasn’t guaranteed. Would people really pay the price of a hot hatch in order to drive round in a 75bhp 4x4? Well, yes. And for more than a decade, the Vitara was a massive success the world over.

THE EARLY MODELS Looks aside, the original Vitara was a fairly conventional machine, even by conservative 4x4 standards. Its 1590cc four-cylinder petrol engine was worthy but unremarkable, making use of a carburettor and manual choke in the early days, although at least that 1.6 JLX came as standard with a fivespeed gearbox, helping to make this

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4x4 MART | WINTER 2010

ROAD TEST: PORSCHE CAYENNE HYBRID

ROAD TEST

ELECTRIC SHOCK! Joining the 4x4 sector was a controversial move for Porsche a few years back. And now it’s gone further by announcing a petrol-electric ‘green’ version of the second-generation Cayenne. Tom Phillips has been behind the wheel

T

he thought of a Porsche offroader stunned many when the Cayenne was launched way back in 2002. Porsche, after all, was a sports car maker – what did it know about the 4x4 market? Many so-called industry experts predicted failure, yet the Cayenne went on to become Porsche’s best-selling model. And that made it a major money-spinner for the German marque.

The Cayenne became even more controversial when Porsche launched a diesel-engined version. (A diesel?

In a Porsche? Sacrilege!) But, once again, this proved to be a strong seller, particularly here in Europe.

So what next? Well, there’s now a second-generation Cayenne on sale – lighter, sleeker and much better looking than before. And Porsche has gone one step further by making it available as a hybrid, combining a 333bhp, 3.0-litre supercharged V6 petrol engine with a

We were never totally convinced by the old Cayenne – but that’s all changed with this latest model

34kW (47bhp) electric motor. We were intrigued to try it out.

IN WITH THE NEW I’ll admit that we (like many others) were never totally convinced by the old Cayenne – but that’s all changed with this latest model. The styling suddenly has a new-found elegance that was lacking from the previous version. The curves are shapelier, it looks far less ‘heavy’ on the road and it’s basically a much more convincing shape to wear the Porsche badge.

With intricate detailing too, it looks suitably expensive and certainly stands out in a crowd.

The technology behind the hybrid version’s running gear is even more impressive, though. The biggest power source is that V6 petrol engine, using a supercharger to help spread 324lb.ft. of torque between 3000 and 5250rpm

– giving it diesel-like mid-range advantages. It’s supported by a 288-volt electric motor integrated directly into the drivetrain – and with this instantly putting out 47bhp, it creates amazing off-the-line and low-rev performance.

Let’s face it, there’s a total combination of 380bhp available here, as well as maximum torque of 427lb.ft.

The set-up works as a parallel full hybrid. The hybrid module, sitting between the engine and (eight-speed automatic) transmission, includes a de-coupler that engages and disengages the engine when necessary.

Where not much power is needed, the engine doesn’t run and the Cayenne is driven purely by electric. When the driver boots it, or if the batteries run low, the engine is engaged and starts up instantaneously. It’s all rather clever.

Speaking of batteries, Porsche has fitted nickel metal-hydride cells to the Cayenne Hybrid – a total of 240 in all, with a 1.7 Kwh capacity.

They’re not the latest lithium ion units because in this case total charge capacity isn’t vital – but repeated lowcapacity charge and discharge cycles are, something that Porsche says these

units are well suited to.

They’re mounted under the boot floor and add 80kg to the car’s weight – which gives you an idea of what a significant unit the battery pack is. As well as powering the hybrid system itself, the batteries also drive the climate control, power steering and brake assist.

To underline electric-only running, Porsche has also fitted an ‘e-power’ function. This expands the car’s ability to run solely on electric by making the throttle ‘softer’ for easier low-demand control. The engine also kicks in later – the intention here is for the driver to press it when they know sporting performance is not necessary (although the engine will still start up if they boot it).

Bafflingly complicated, I think