Sailing Today May 2013

exciting new look!

may 2013 sailingtoday.co.uk £4.20

gO FurTHer I SaIl beTTer I be InSpIred now

BiggeR BRighteR BetteR

Bahamian Rhapsody We reveal the best kept secret in the Caribbean gull’s eye RetuRns

Delightful Dart Your handy guide to the gateway to the West Country

CHELSEA ARINE M MAGAZINES

exclusive test

Bluewater, lifting keel

win!

turkish sailing holiday for four

Southerly’s new 47 can cross oceans and dry out cruise to the isles

From Wales to Skye on the whisky trail

rod & lu heikell

The cruising legends on ‘real’ adventure at sea

clothing guide

Our picks of the top gear for this season

downwind tricks

How to get the best from your spinnaker

CHELSEA ARINE M MAGAZINES

rcona 410

340 Address Hamble Point Marina SO31 4NB

Email info@arconayachts.com

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Web Telephone www.arconayachts.com +44 (0)2380 457770

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Welcome

london office Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ Tel: 020 7349 3700 ManaGInG EDITOr Sam fortescue 020 7349 3752 sam.fortescue@chelseamagazines.com nEWS anD fEaTUrES toby heppell 020 7349 3753 toby.heppell@chelseamagazines.com PUBLISHEr Simon temlett simon.temlett@chelseamagazines.com PUBLISHInG COnSULTanT martin nott

Southampton office Swanwick Marina, Lower Swanwick, Southampton SO31 1ZL EDITOr-aT-LarGE Jake frith 01489 585213 jake.frith@chelseamagazines.com arT & PrODUCTIOn EDITOr Guy foan 01489 585214 guy.foan@chelseamagazines.com

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SEnIOr aDvErTISEMEnT ManaGEr Jayne Bennett 01489 585200 jayne.bennett@chelseamagazines.com aDvErTISEMEnT ManaGEr Sarah pain 01489 585207 sarah.pain@chelseamagazines.com CLaSSIfIED SaLES ExECUTIvE Gemma foster 01489 585210 gemma.foster@chelseamagazines.com

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the chelsea magazine company ltd ManaGInG DIrECTOr paul dobson holly.thacker@chelseamagazines.com DEPUTY ManaGInG DIrECTOr Steve Ross steve.ross@chelseamagazines.com

Skipper’s View long-term readers of st will recognise some of their old favourites returning to the magazine in a new guise

Welcome to the neW look Sailing Today. Or perhaps ‘old look’ would be a better way of describing it? You see, we’ve leafed through back issues and pored over the pages of your beloved ST, and got a sense of what you’ve liked best down the years.

So this relaunch is more like a ‘back to the future’. We’ve resuscitated Gull’s Eye, with its breathtaking aerial shot of Britain’s best harbours – see Toby’s take on stunning Dartmouth on pp28-32.

We’ve beefed up our cruising coverage to give you a choice of home and overseas stories – hot or cold (or perhaps cold or very cold!) Hopefully, you’ll feel a shiver of warmth as you gaze at the pictures of turquoise seas that I encountered in the little-known Bahamas on pp18-27. Or enjoy a warming dram with one intrepid sailor, who sailed from Wales to Uig for a tour of the distilleries of Skye on pp40-46.

We also know how much you rate Sailing Today’s independent tests. In this issue, you’ll find the stalwart and suavely-bearded Duncan Kent at the wheel of Southerly’s latest 47-footer. He timed the test perfectly for the only sunny day we’ve seen in months, as you can see from pp34-39, and you won’t read this anywhere else – it’s an ST exclusive! That’s not all, though. The testing continues across our usual new gear pages and into the ether, with a thorough investigation of the merits of using your tablet as a primary chart plotter (pp76-80).

But, I hope you will notice some differences between the old ST and the new. Chelsea Magazines has worked hard for months to produce a fresh, no-nonsense look for your favourite sailing magazine. There’s a brand new seamanship feature to help you get the most out of your boat – this month it’s spinnaker tips (pp72-75). Plus, an exciting mix of your letters and photos, news, book reviews and a clothing guide with our picks of the latest casual and technical sailing garb.

We’ve taken you, our readers, as the inspiration for the new look ST, so please get in touch to let us know what you think. We still aim to give you the best monthly sailing read that money can buy, in the same independent spirit as always.

COMMErCIaL DIrECTOr Vicki Gavin vicki.gavin@chelseamagazines.com

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contributors

© The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2013. all rights reserved. ISSn 0044-000 no part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission in writing.

Every care is taken to ensure the accuracy of information in Sailing Today, but no responsibility can be accepted for the consequences of actions based on the advice portrayed herein. The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd makes every effort to ensure that the advertising contained in this magazine is delivered from responsible sources. We cannot, however, accept any responsibility for transactions between readers and advertisers. Sailing Today welcomes letters. for the Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd full set of terms and conditions please go to chelseamagazines.com/terms-and-conditions

DAVE holbourn has sailed for 15 years and lives in Worcester. He sailed from Barmouth to Skye

DuncAn kEnt is our stalwart boat and gear tester. He lives in Somerset and sails a nicholson 32

jAmEs knight works for north Sails in Gosport and is a keen racer.

He advises on spinnakers may 2013 sailingtoday.co.uk

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HANSE

TACKING WITHOUT TOUCHING THE SHEET Integrated self-tacking jib

EASY TO STEER, SAFE AND FAST Long water line, T-Speed keel.

Designed by judel / vrolijk & co

FAST CRUISING

SAIL SINGLE-HANDED All halyards and sheets lead aft to helm

LIGHT AND AIRY Hull windows in all cabins as well as elegant opening flush deck hatches and windows

ERGONOMIC COCKPIT DESIGN Twin-wheel steering with access to bathing platform, solid teak cockpit table, wide bench seats, high coaming

Video

325

new

345 385 415 445 495

new

575 630e

SEE US AT OUR UK ROADSHOWS IN APRIL CALL FOR DETAILS OF THE SHOW NEAREST YOU

Inspiration Marine Group Ltd. | contact.us@inspirationmarine.co.uk Southampton | P 02380 457008 || Windermere | P 01539 447700 Scotland & Ireland | P 01475 522515

www.hanseyachts.com

Strap book Contents

Regulars 8 newS

Bounty inquiry; Clipper complications; sailing scientists sought

12 new boatS Hallbery-Rassy 412, Rustler 37, Hanse 575 Swedestar 415, Moody 54DS, Dufour 410

14 ReaDeRS’ letteRS Refuge in Viveiro, boat storage and more

15 win a SunSail HoliDay 17 wHat’S on 70 bookS 98 RiDing ligHt barry wilmshurst, sailing South africa

18 baHaMian RHapSoDy Sam and alex Fortescue are thrilled by an unplanned cruise in the exumas

28 gull’S eye the gull returns, over the River Dart

40 Malt MiSSion

baHaMaS MiniStRy oF touRiSM

Cruising

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Dave Holbourn discovers the appeal of Scottish cruising

48 inteRView Rod and lu Heikell on a lifetime in the Med

50 SeCRet plaCeS Discovering Chapman’s pool in Dorset

Boats

34 SoutHeRly 47 testing northshore’s 47ft lift-keeler

52 liVing legenD Revisiting the legendary Contessa 32

64-68 40

Gear

56 ClotHing guiDe this year’s ‘must have’ sailing clobber

64 new geaR Fresh from the chandlery

68 geaR teSteD

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b&g Zeus plotter; barton traveller

Practical

72 SpinnakeR HanDling 76 plotteRS VS paDS would you put to sea with just a tablet pC for navigation?

eMily HaRRiS

top tips for taming the spinnaker and making the most of the gennaker

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New boats DESIGNS / LAUNCHES / PROJECTS HALLBERG-RASSY 412

FROM £405,000 Rustler 37

£306,000

Sistership to the well-respected Rustler 42, the new Rustler 37 offers double cabins fore and aft and a big saloon. There is plenty of storage for extended cruising and large navigation and galley areas.

Her trademark fin keel and deep canoe underwater body is in contrast to many modern production yachts and helps reduce slamming through waves. It also allows more sail to be carried further into higher wind strengths.

On deck, everything is led back to the cockpit, for easy and safe sailing. She also benefits from single line reefing.

The first yacht will be launched late summer 2013. 

The largest of its aft-cockpit yachts, the 412 has the option of twin or single aft cabins, with one or two heads – all roomy and bright. There are also comfort options such as a generator, washing machine, bow and stern thrusters.

Halyards are hidden under the coachroof. Her lines are clean, thanks to the flush-mounted hatches and the genoa furler drum and electric windlass mounted below deck.

She has a roomy 3.1m cockpit, with a single wheel and large binnacle. The modern sail plan is designed for easy handling, with a large main but only slightly overlapping headsail. There is also a self-tacking jib option.  

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Builder: Hallberg-Rassy, www.hallberg-rassy.com UK agents: Transworld Yachts Tel: +44 (0)23 8045 4000, www.transworldyachts.co.uk

sailingtoday.co.uk may 2013

Builder/sales: Rustler Yachts Tel: +44 (0)1326 310 120, www.rustleryachts.com

Hanse 575

£384,000

Designed by Judel/Vrolijk, Hanse’s new flagship 575 has all the components for stress-free passage-making: an elegant hull with a long waterline, a performance orientated sail plan and a comfortable, safe cockpit area.

Her fractional rig includes a self-tacking jib as standard and the sail controls lead to within reach of the twin helms.

The cockpit’s two tables fold down to provide sunbeds at anchor and she has a dinghy garage under her stern, but the open transom is an invitation to lose gear overboard.

Below, she is spacious, with a variety of layout options.  

Builder: Hanse Yachts, www.hanseyachts.com UK agents: Inspiration Marine Tel: +44 (0)23 8045 7008, www.hanseyachts.co.uk

SwedeStar 415

from £350,000

SwedeStar yachts are solidly built bluewater cruisers that are typical of the finest Swedish craftsmanship. Although they have been available in the UK for several years now, they have yet to become particularly well known here.

They are classically designed and steadfastly constructed. On deck the new 415 has a deep, safe cockpit and a large wheel. Sail controls, including the mainsheet, are by the wheel and her classic hull form should slice through the water effortlessly.

Below, she has a traditional, but by no means dated, layout. There is less space than in today’s beamy twin-wheeled production cruisers, but then that’s not always what long-distance cruisers want.

Sea-kindliness and vice-free performance is more important to many, plus the delights of relaxing at anchor in a beautifully crafted boat.

The 415 can be laid out with two or three cabins, with one or two heads and a large L-shaped galley.

Sensible stowage abounds, as do well-placed handrails and fiddles.  

Builder: SwedeStar, www.swedestar.se UK agent: SD Marine Tel: +44 (0)23 8045 7278, www.sdmarine.co.uk

Dufour 410 Moody 54DS

from £549,000

After the success of the Dixon-designed, Hanse-built Moody 45DS, it was obvious that cruisers liked the ‘deck-level’ living experience. In the past, this had been restricted to catamarans, but Moody took a chance with the 45DS, raising the saloon sole so that the galley and living areas were at deck level. This gives it a really open and airy feel.

Testing the smaller 45, we were amazed at how well she handled and, with Dixon drawing the lines of the new 54DS, she is bound to impress.

And that extra 10ft means a decent VIP guest cabin can be provided in addition to the sumptuous owner’s suite.

As with the other new boats in its latest series, Dufour’s 410 has twin wheels, drop-down transom platform with dedicated liferaft and inflatable dinghy stowage, extra beam for a wider cockpit and larger, more comfortable cabins aft. Hatches are now flush, and there is an option for cockpit seats to convert into sunbeds.

Her interior isn’t quite as stark as on some of the latest production launches and looks to be slightly better finished with a wide choice of materials. She’s light below, thanks to large portlights and hatches, but not so airy: only one small port opens in each side of the coachroof. 

Builder: Moody Yachts, www.moodyboats.com  UK agents: Boat Sales International Tel: +44 (0)23 8045 7966, www.boatsales.co.uk 

£151,000



Builder: Dufour Yachts www.dufour-yachts.com UK agents: Marco Marine Tel: +44 (0)23 8045 3245, www.marcomarine.co.uk

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Cruising

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SHOAL WATER WORLD The Bahamas prove to be an unexpected highlight of Sam and Alex Fortescue’s Atlantic circuit

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‘The Bahamas Bank curves protectively round these islands like a hand’

T

‘

he Bahamas, you say? Isn’t that full of American powerboats and cruise liners? No, better stick to the quieter waters of the Caribbean islands.’ If that was your first thought when you read the headline, you’re not alone. Very few sailors passing through the Caribbean make it as far west as the Bahamas, whose 3,077 islands and rocks are scattered across 90,000sqm between 73°W and 79°W. And in truth, our visit to the Bahamas, as part of a year-long Atlantic circuit, was hardly planned.

We’d got as far as Cuba in our Sadler 34, Summer Song, after a sublime 9-day downwind passage from the British Virgin Islands. Next stop,

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sailingtoday.co.uk may 2013

after a certain amount of daiquirisipping and Hemingway impersonation, was to be the great, green expanse of the Chesapeake Bay on America’s east coast.

But for a niggling bureaucratic issue related to entry visas (or the lack thereof), we would have steered into the deep blue river of the Gulf Stream, travelling north at up to 4 knots, and there would be no story to tell here. As it was, we were obliged to lay a course for Nassau, from which the Bahamas’ island chains straggle in all directions, and where there is a US embassy.

In late May, before the hurricane season begins in earnest, sailors in these waters can expect the odd tropical storm and plenty of squally weather. So we timed our departure

Top: Anchored off Norman’s Cay, with a dune of old conch shells in the foreground Clockwise from above left: Friendly parakeets at the “world famous” Nassau Zoo; Queen Victoria in front of the Parliament building in Nassau; Goldie’s speciality is cracked conch

from Cuban waters to coincide with a broad window of settled weather, which brought us the first surprise of many on our Bahamian adventure.

After 36 hours under way, and broadly on the same latitude as Miami, Florida, we edged into waters just 4m deep and dropped the hook for a good night’s rest on a mirror calm sea. We had crossed the Gulf Stream and entered the shallow waters of the Great Bahamas Bank, where fish and turtles teem, and the bottom is never more than a few metres from your keel.

Big blue

But we hadn’t ‘arrived’ anywhere.

There were another 85 miles to Nassau and the only break in a watery horizon was a small clump of

Bahamas

Nassau, New Providence

OPENING PHOTO: BAHAMAS MINISTRY OF TOURISM

The seat of government when the Bahamas was a British colony, Nassau has remained so since independence in 1973. The town has a Jekyll and Hyde personality, split between the sleepy historic quarter with its numerous conch eateries, and the brazen monument to consumerism, which is the cruise terminal and the casino complex on Paradise Island, reached by a tall toll bridge.

another boat using exactly the same waypoints and not looking out.

In any kind of choppy conditions, or with the prevailing easterly wind, this might have been an uncomfortable leg, but in an oily calm, it was sublime, and with the Volvo taking the strain, we daysailed to Nassau, and arrived well rested.

A busy port

Nassau is the administrative and logistical hub of the Bahamas.

Tourists arrive here from every point of the globe by plane and cruise liner, and mailboats jostle in and out of the harbour, distributing goods and passengers to all the major island centres. Before we could motor in

past the slab sided cruise ships – the tallest things here on land or sea – we had to seek permission to proceed from the harbourmaster. Then it was past the breakwater, into the sheltered waters between the mainland and the off-lying casino resort of Paradise Island.

A strong westgoing current can make shooting the high bridge a tricky business, but there is plenty of air draught under the tallest arch.

The US pilot guide advises you to pop into one of the marinas, because the holding in the harbour is bad. In truth, though, we had no problems with the hook. The guide’s advice probably comes down to promoting local services, rather than any safety concerns. We certainly rode at anchor here for 10 days without dragging an inch.

We spent a pleasant week in Nassau, eating conch fritters and battling with bureaucracy at the US embassy. Then, with my American visa application approved and my passport awaiting attention, there was no reason to hang about, and we decided to push off and explore.

Hurricane season was fast approaching, so we chose the nearest

‘These tropical waters are so clear you can spot the coral from 100 yards’ innocuous rocks about half a mile to the west. Otherwise, the sea stretched off in every direction. Riding at anchor as the sun set over the flat, empty sea, we felt distinctly vulnerable, but captivated by the strangeness of it all.

The Great Bahamas Bank curves protectively around these islands like a hand and is visible from space as a vast splash of turquoise. Built up from layer upon layer of coral sand, it is largely unexplored and uncharted, in places shifting regularly. Over the years, however, careful sailors have navigated between a number of waypoints and beacons, establishing ‘safe’ corridors. If you stick rigidly to the waypoints, you know the water will be deep enough. The bigger danger, in fact, is being run down by

Above: Paradise Island hosts the vast Atlantis casino complex Right: Sandbank revealed at low water off Little Norman’s Cay

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Gull’s EyE Dartmouth

Dart marina yacht harbour This is the only marina on the Dartmouth side of the river. Smaller than Darthaven across the fairway, and with fewer visitor berths, it is nevertheless newer.

The complex also contains a hotel and spa.

Darthaven marina Bigger than Dart Marina Yacht Harbour and a little noisier. There are more yachting amenities and easy access to Dartmouth via the ferry.

guLL’s EYE

DaRtMOUtH DeliGHt

Gateway to the West Country and peaceful river anchorage 28

sailingtoday.co.uk May 2013

Gull’s EyE Dartmouth

A

s a lifelong sailor, I find few areas in Britain as pretty as the Devon and Cornwall coastlines. Rugged cliffs give way to pretty rivers and stunning vistas over waters that often seem clearer and bluer than elsewhere.

My memories of previous visits to Dartmouth are of sunny weather and spectacular scenery. It is fair to say only one of these traits was experienced when we went for a poke around on a cold February day.

But, in spite of the breeze swirling light snow into our faces, the views out over the River Dart itself were as fine as I had remembered.

Dartmouth and the nearby towns of Torquay and Salcombe have a long and illustrious maritime history.

Naval and general heritage abounds as you make your way around the little streets and shops, all seemingly with some connection to the water.

Although there are a significant number of spots to moor or pick up a buoy on the River Dart, we have focused on the recently refurbished Dart Marina Yacht Harbour, located on the Dartmouth side of the river, and the larger Darthaven Marina on the Kingswear side.

Age of steam a 6.7-mile heritage railway on the former Great Western Railway branch line links Paignton and Kingswear. The train runs along the bank of the River Dart.

Eating out

factfile

Dartmouth is home to many restaurants, but the Mitch Tonks-owned fish and chip shop, Rockfish, and his fine dining restaurant, Seahorse are recommended.

DArt mAriNA yACht hArBOur Contact: +44 (0)1803 837 161, dartmarinayachtharbour.co.uk Berths: 105

WWW.JOEMuRTaGH.COM

Facilities: Wi-Fi, electricity, showers, spa, hotel tides: Dover -0510 vhF: Channel 11 maximum size: 65ft Price: ÂŁ4.20 per metre per day

May 2013 sailingtoday.co.uk

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On test

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sailingtoday.co.uk may 2013

Bluewater lifting keel The new Southerly 47 could be this renowned British marque’s finest bluewater cruiser yet.

Duncan Kent has the exclusive report. proof padded and insulated sole boards, and much more.

Interior styling is contemporary to the point where the latest materials and systems are always offered to the prospective owner, but Southerly hasn’t let the style merchants get too carried away. Utilising the skills of renowned superyacht stylist, Rhoades Young, it has created an opulent, yet tasteful interior that undoubtedly bestows an up-market feel to the accommodation. Southerly is also happy to customise the

interior for each owner – in many cases, where it’s just an alternative to the standard, at no cost.

Solid construction

As with all Southerly yachts, the 47 is built using the latest techniques and materials, with each hull guaranteed against osmosis for five years from the date of manufacture.

The moulds are laminated by hand, using Northshore’s Nordseal system, which incorporates multi-axial and unidirectional fibre reinforcement

Broad stern

A wide stern means more room below and more lounging space in the cockpit. However, good handholds, high coamings and deep seating ensure the cockpit is both practical and secure under way.

Emily HArris

Emily HArris

S

outherly’s new 47ft aft-cockpit, swing keel cruiser is designed and built to an extremely high specification, but with easy handling uppermost on the priority list.

Designer, Stephen Jones’ main ask was to ensure that not only is she capable of being sailed on long ocean passages by just two people, but also that she should have enough space and facilities for another couple to stay on board without compromising the owner’s own accommodation.

Although not defined specifically as a raised saloon model like some of the yard’s other yachts, the S47 still boasts magnificent panoramic views from its raised seating area – one of the most called-for features of bluewater cruisers these days.

Her interior has been designed for ultimate comfort, but not at the expense of practicality. So, she has all the mod cons expected of a world cruiser, such as high-capacity fuel and water tanks, easy access skin fittings and plumbing connections, space for a generator, watermaker and dive tank compressor, vibration-

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COMPACT DIMENSIONS • BIG SPECIFICATIONS