HEAD TO HEAD
PATAGONIA: CHILE
P
Straddling both Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is one of the world’s most
atagonia is vast, untamed and beautiful. Covering roughly 400,000 square miles at the end of the Earth, the region spans both Chile and Argentina and is filled with towering mountains, bluetinged glaciers, emerald-green lakes, raging rivers, subpolar forests and ice-carved fjords. Within this epic wilderness there are outposts that make taking it all in feasible: the range of accommodation within Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park and, on the other side of the border, the small town of El Chaltén, Argentina. But which to choose?
TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK, CHILE
By Emma Fritz While there are many different regions and landscapes within Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park is probably the most well known. The park has been heavily developed for visitors in the last 15 years. This means that hiking trails are wellmarked and safe, and there’s a variety of accommodation, from luxury lodges to Mongolian yurts and simple B&Bs, as well as traditional camping at designated campsites. You can visit Torres virtually all year round. The busiest season is from
December to February; however, you can access most hiking trails from October to April. May to September is winter in Patagonia, but even then, visiting isn’t impossible; although daylight is limited, only a handful of hotels are open and the weather overall will be colder, but the park’s habitual wind dies down. Plus, there’s something immensely special about seeing so few fellow visitors. Getting there is relatively easy, too: the port towns of Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas are your entry points, and both have direct flights from Santiago multiple times per day. But make no mistake, Torres remains a wilderness. The park is home to saw-toothed mountains, glaciers, valleys, meltwater lakes, rivers, streams, pampas, old-growth forest and some of the most indecisive weather on Earth.
There’s a Patagonian saying: ‘If you don’t like the weather, wait ten minutes.’ Rain is to be expected at any time of year, but if you dress in layers, a waterproof jacket and sturdy hiking boots, you can cope with whatever Torres throws at you. The hiking is truly rewarding here. The demanding four-night W trek is one of the park’s calling cards, and it culminates in a sharp ascent to see the three granite peaks of the Paine Massif. The French Valley trek, meanwhile, takes you over a boulderstrewn moraine and offers the tantalizing chance to see glaciers calving (and possibly an avalanche or two). Then there are shorter walks to suit all abilities. If you’re not a hiker, don’t be deterred. There are many ways to experience the park’s landscapes: on horseback, by kayak and on board a boat. It’s also a good place to spot mountain wildlife. The very lucky few might spot a puma, but it’s very common to see guanacos (pictured), South Andean deer, condors and up to 115 species of bird. Get me there: A 12-day tailor-made trip, including the Atacama Desert, Chiloe Island, the Chilean Lake District and Torres del Paine, starts from $7,100pp. For more information, call Emma or our Chile specialists on 1-855-838-8640.
28 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
028-029_HeadToHead_USA_SO.indd 28
28/09/2018 15:30
v
e
