SPRING 2018
INSIDERS’ INDIA Our specialists’ guide to Kerala, Rajasthan and the northeast
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CONTENTS 4 First Sight
Specialist Olivia Snow captures the colors of an artisan’s work in Fez, Morocco.
6Escape Routes
Travel news, from brand new stays to the latest flight routes. We reveal the best upcoming books, events and apps; plus a new way to experience the Tanzanian bush.
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India
Whether it’s your first trip or latest exploration of this vast country, our specialists show you where to go – from the foothills of the Himalaya to spotting tigers in Rajasthan.
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Top 6 Japan with the family
From drumming to snow monkeys, Japan has activities to keep the whole family entertained.
20New Zealand
Specialist Sara-Jane walks the Pouakai Crossing – this spectacular country’s latest challenger for the title of ‘the world’s best day hike’. Plus: Five other great day hikes to try when you’re in ‘The Land of the Long White Cloud’.
Hours In... Rio de Janeiro 2648
From urban jungles to tantalizing beaches explore the samba infused streets of Brazil’s most famous city.
30Safari Planner
Planning where to go on an African safari can be a quandary – our specialists help narrow down the many great options based on readers’ interests.
36Just Back From…
Our specialists report back from their latest research trips in Kenya, Antarctica, Sicily, and Peru.
38Mexico
Discover colonial towns, ancient ruins and wild landscapes beyond Mexico’s beaches.
to Head: Inis Mor vs Isle of Skye 44Head
The islands of Scotland and Ireland are both great opportunities for solitude and scenery – but which will be part of your next trip?
46Travelers’ Tales
Your stories and photographs, as you report back from your latest trips visiting Japan and Egypt.
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WELCOME
Dear Traveler
Contributors
Welcome to the spring edition of Audley Traveler. Sprawling and complex, India’s vast cultural richness invites travelers to return time and again. On page 12, three of our specialists talk about their recent trips there, from a seasoned visitor discovering the backwaters, to exploring Rajasthan for the first time. When planning a safari, it can be hard to know where to begin – our specialists plot out three different safari trips to suit the interests of Audley travelers (p30). From luxury lodges in Botswana, to Kenya for the whole family – hopefully their suggestions will provide inspiration for your next trip. And finally, New Zealand’s Tongariro Alpine Crossing is widely considered one of the world’s greatest hikes and its cinematic scenery attracts people from around the world. Specialist Sara-Jane hikes the Pouakai Crossing to discover similarly spectacular views, with fewer visitors (p20). I hope you enjoy the issue.
Jacqui Lewis President & Managing Director, North America
77 N Washington St, 6th Floor, Boston, MA 02114 Telephone: 1-855-838-8300 Website: www.audleytravel.com The vacations featured in this magazine are suggestions only and will be customized to fit your travel dates and preferences. All prices quoted are exclusive of international flights and subject to change. Designed by Wanderlust Travel Media. CST#2117258-40 | Fla. Seller of Travel Ref. No. ST39468. Images supplied by Audley travelers, staff and suppliers, Mathieu Dupuis/Le Québec maritime, Robert Harding, Alamy, Trevor Kinzie, courtesy Denver Arts & Venues, TASCHEN, National Geographic Creative/ Hugo van Lawick, Superstock, iStock and AWL
Katie Sherman East Africa Specialist Katie first fell in love with Africa when she ran a marathon in 2015 in the wild of Lewa, Kenya, for Audley’s annual charity Tusk. Katie loves helping others discover this enchanting part of the world. Best wildlife spot? The Naboisho Conservancy in the Masai Mara. Limited cars, excellent guides, and abundant wildlife with no borders to the Mara. Megan Backheuser Latin America Specialist Megan loves all things Brazilian and hopes to one day call Rio home. Read about her top tips for Rio de Janeiro and discover why it’s considered the “Marvelous City.” Best wildlife spot? The Pantanal, Brazil. Grassy wetlands with wide-open spaces and great wildlife spotting. Olivia Snow Morocco specialist Olivia spent a year in Morocco working as a Presidential Intern at the Al Akhawayn University in Ifrane. She recently revisited Morocco to learn more about the region’s culture, cuisine and history. Best wildlife spot? Seeing the bald ibis and a flock of flamingoes in the Sous Massa National Park, Morocco.
SPRI N G 2018
INSIDERS’ INDIA Our specialists’ guide to Kerala, Rajasthan and the northeast
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR DAILY TRAVEL INSPIRATION Tag @AudleyTravel and #TheAudleyWay to share your travel photos with us.
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THINGS we’ve learned this issue
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Dunvegan Castle, on Scotland’s Isle of Skye, has been the home of the MacCleod clan since 1200 (p45).
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The Maori personify all elements of their landscape: mountains and volcanoes argue and fall in love (p24).
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The world’s largest urban jungle can be found in Brazil’s Rio de Janiero. The Tijuca Forest covers 12.3 square miles of cascading waterfalls, tropical plants and an spectacular wildlife (p29).
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For those getting married in Guadalajara, Mexico, a wedding banquet is likely to include birria de chiva (spicy goat stew), a traditional local delicacy (p43).
On the cover A woman carries water in Rajasthan, India Discover India from Rajasthan to Kerala and the northeast on page 12. For more information, call our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478 or request a copy of our brochure at www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures
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FIRST SIGHT
METAL CRAFTSMAN AT WORK, FEZ, MOROCCO By Olivia Snow, Morocco specialist �During a recent guided tour of Fez, I saw a variety of artisans at work, practicing techniques passed down through the generations. We started in a tannery, where I had an aerial view of leathers being dyed, before moving on to see woodcarvers and weavers working in local wool or palm silk. Down a winding alley, we happened upon this diligent metal craftsman hammering Arabic calligraphy into a decorative plate. The medina is brimming with spots like these: workers displaying their crafts while busily creating more.�
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ESCAPE ROUTES
TRAVEL NEWS | FLIGHT DECK | SOCIAL TALK | CHECK IN ↘
WHAT’S NEW
Get roving on a Tanzanian safari Staying in a Bush Rover is possibly the closest you’ll get to solitude in the Tanzanian bush. These working Land Rover 110 Defenders (pictured) have been converted into two-story tents, creating mobile camps in places where permanent camps aren’t an option. The camp staff determine the best spot for viewing wildlife and set up your 4x4 there, before withdrawing and leaving you to enjoy your privacy. Staff remain just a short stroll away, but hidden from view. During the day, enjoy game drives to the furthest reaches of the park. In the evenings, sip a drink on your porch and relax as the animals slowly grow accustomed to you. You might see zebra and Thomson’s gazelle grazing or wildebeest ambling through the grass. For more information, please contact our Safari specialists on 1-855-838-0500.
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ESCAPE ROUTES
Isle of Skye in numbers
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FLIGHT DECK
Of the population speaks Gaelic
The latest flight news
3 Feet
New Zealand’s epic open spaces are now closer than ever before. Air New Zealand is set to begin a nonstop service between Chicago and Auckland in November 2018. This service will operate on its Boeing 787 Dreamliners three times a week. Flights are already available for purchase.
The length of a commonly spotted European otter
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The year that Talisker Distillery brought whisky to Skye
On May 4th Nashville, Tennessee, launched its first direct flight to Europe. Flights will go direct to London Heathrow and operate five times a week. LATAM Airlines has launched direct flights from Cuzco to Trujillo and Iquitos in northern Peru, making its fascinating pre-Inca kingdoms and the Amazon an accessible combination with a trip to Machu Picchu. An additional direct service connects Cuzco with Pisco on the southern coast. In June 2018, Kenya Airways is launching a direct flight from Cape Town, South Africa, to Nairobi, Kenya, making a combination trip of southern and eastern Africa easier than ever.
4,150
Explore even more of China in less time Traversing the enormity of China has never been easier. The Beijing to Shanghai high-speed line just increased its speed to 350 mph, making the 819-mile journey in as little as four-and-a-half hours. New routes are continually opening. The over-16-hour train journey between the terracotta warriors in Xian and the pandas in Chengdu, which you would have had to fly in the past, can now be traversed in just three and a half hours. For more information, please contact our China specialists on 1-855-834-8220.
People live in Portree, the island’s largest town
400
Miles of coastline for farming oysters
3,255 Feet Height of its highest peak, Sgurr Alasdair
Discover an Outback shortcut Strange but true: it can be difficult to feel immersed on a trip to the Australian Outback, despite its colossal size. However, we’ve found that South Australia’s Gawler Ranges National Park delivers the goods. You can tour its raw, rocky landscapes over three or four days, also exploring the enormous saline Lake Gairdner and the Eyre Peninsula’s coastline – great for observing bottlenose dolphins and sea lions. You’ll stay in spacious, luxury safari-style tents, with a central dining tent serving up ‘bush canapés’, and you’ll meet yet more wildlife: expect mobs of kangaroos and emus coming to investigate. For more information, please contact our Australia specialists on 1-844-250-3450. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 7
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ESCAPE ROUTES
CHECK IN
The most exciting new stays Amanyangyun, Shanghai, China Located just outside downtown Shanghai, this hotel (pictured above) sits within a camphor forest of 10,000 trees, all relocated 700km from Jiangxi Province to rescue them from flooding. The hotel’s Qing and Ming buildings were also relocated, and have wood, stone and bamboo furnishings. The Oberoi, New Delhi, India After a full renovation, the Oberoi in New Delhi has reopened. With larger rooms and a refreshed contemporary interior, it exudes luxury and opulence while maintaining its old-world charm. We love this property for its central location and views over Humayun’s Tomb. Veriu Broadway, Sydney, Australia This boutique hotel is found in the youthful suburb of Ultimo. The property’s sliding glass doors open onto a lobby filled with the smell of fresh bread wafting from the in-house cafe. Rooms are spacious and both Chinatown and Darling Harbour are only a 10-minute walk away. M Social, Auckland, New Zealand Modern and tech-savvy, this contemporary hotel opened late last year on Princes Wharf, the beating heart of Auckland’s food scene. Its Beast & Butterflies Restaurant claims to own the city’s longest bar, and it serves great signature drinks as well as the fresh seafood Auckland is known for.
Experience Spain and Portugal with Audley We are excited to announce that in July of 2018 we will begin offering custom trips to both Spain and Portugal. Our certified specialists know these culturally rich countries intimately and have traveled extensively to bring you experiences
not found in guidebooks. You might find yourself on a private city tour on one of Lisbon’s iconic yellow trams or at a churros and chocolate tasting experience in Barcelona. Look for our next issue to learn more.
Value For Money Awards
Take a new wonder hike in Jordan
We are pleased to have received the accolade of Best Tour Operator in the Sunday Times Travel Magazine’s Value For Money Awards. Here’s what they had to say: “Audley takes the crown for its breadth of destinations and the added value it offers [such as] travel wallets containing schedule, tips and contacts”.
Jordan has a new entry in its collection of spectacular trails. Travelers can now follow the Siq Trail along Wadi Mujib, tracing the river upstream, passing between the walls of the meandering gorge. Once you reach the waterfall at the mouth of the canyon, you can relax and enjoy the shade and cool water. Located just east of the Dead Sea, this trail can easily be incorporated alongside a visit to Amman, Petra and the Dead Sea. For more information, please contact our Jordan specialists on 1-855-838-6415.
VFM AWARDS magazine
2018
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ESCAPE ROUTES
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CHARITY UPDATE
ShelterBox: Rebuilding both homes and lives
O
ur fundraising efforts throughout the year will be supporting ShelterBox, a charity dedicated to providing emergency disaster relief.
Who is ShelterBox?
Right now, 85 million people worldwide are homeless because of natural disasters or conflict. By providing shelter and tools for those robbed of their homes, ShelterBox is transforming despair into hope. Each disaster is different, and so is every community. ShelterBox provides the exact support that gives people the hope and the power to transform their own lives. Since 2000, the organization has helped more than one million people by providing ShelterBoxes and ShelterKits (which contain essentials including family-sized tents
designed to withstand the elements, cooking sets, solar lights and activity sets for children).
What will we be doing?
This year, we aim to raise $70,000 which will provide shelter and aid to around 200 families. We have a dedicated fundraising team made up of volunteers who are
passionate about the charity’s work. They’re helping to coordinate money-raising events, from smaller individual challenges to company-wide efforts. We’ll keep you updated on our progress in subsequent issues of Audley Traveler. For more information, please visit www. audleytravel.com/us/about-us/fundraising
What to READ?
What to WATCH?
What to SEE?
What to DOWNLOAD?
Travel writer Paul Theroux’s most recent novel is a meditation on the art of searching for authenticity. In Figures in a Landscape: People and Places Theroux has created a collection that takes readers to Ecuador, Zimbabwe, and Hawaii, highlighting those he meets along the way. Out Now.
After the success of Blue Planet II, David Attenborough is back with a five-part BBC series, Dynasty. Each episode will follow a different animal, from lion to emperor penguins, as they lead their family and protect them in an ever-changing environment. Out later this year.
Chinese contemporary artist Ai Weiwei has created a reinterpreted bronze-casted Chinese zodiac that sits in Denver’s Civic Center Park. Nearby at the McNichols Building there is an educational display that explains the history behind the art as well as the technique of bronze-casting.
The act of sending postcards has been transformed. With TouchNote you can turn your original images into personalized postcards from your travels. Simply choose an image, enter a message with an address and TouchNote will mail it out. Available on iOS and Android. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 9
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ESCAPE ROUTES
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RECIPE
Pisco sour By Nik Horncastle, Latin America specialist
B TOP TIP “Keep your pisco in the freezer so it’s cool and refreshing when you’re ready to serve.”
oth Peru and Chile claim to be the rightful homeland of pisco, a clear spirit that’s distilled from fermented grape juice (it’s really a form of brandy). Both countries will passionately claim that they make the best pisco sours but, given that it’s now 100 years since the first cocktail of this type was served in Lima by bartender Victor Morris, I like to think Peru gets the crown. However, if you’ve never had a pisco sour before and you’re heading to either country, I’d recommend taking the opportunity to try this sweet-and-sour cocktail. This is a recipe (in the loosest of terms) that I learned as part of a cooking course in Cuzco with Gerardo, a local chef who was passionate about food – especially Peruvian food. Not only did he show me how to cook local dishes and mix cocktails, he taught me about the history of ingredients in Peru, and how they’ve been used in the past. It is surprisingly easy to buy pisco in the US these days; Peruvian pisco tends to be slightly sweeter than its Chilean equivalent.
Ingredients 1/3 cup pisco 5 tsp lime juice 5 tsp simple syrup (50:50 white sugar and water) 1 egg white Bitters Ice
Preparation 1. Retrieve the pisco from the freezer. 2. Put the pisco, lime juice, syrup and egg white in a blender (or cocktail shaker), and blend until it has doubled in size. 3. Mix in the ice until it’s well chilled. 4. Pour into a glass: there should be a foamy egg-white head, which you can then decorate with three drops of bitters before serving. 5. Garnish with a wedge of lime.
Have you recreated a recipe we’ve featured in Audley Traveler? If you’ve made a pisco sour or any of our other recipes, we would love to see your efforts. Tag your Instagram and Twitter posts with #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTravel. Alternatively you can upload photos to our Facebook page or www.audleytravel.com/us/social
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TAKEOVER Audley Traveler is your magazine – here to inspire your next trip. For our summer edition, we'll be including more of your travel stories and photographs as well as articles chosen by you. Whether you’re planning a family adventure, a special anniversary trip or a honeymoon, let us know what you want to read. To get involved, make sure you're signed up for our email newsletter at www.audleytravel.com/us and follow us on social media.
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ISeenNin aDnewI light A
India is a country that offers something new to be discovered on every trip – our specialists explain why visitors return to this vast and varied nation time and again
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A new dawn Gazing out across the dawn-lit water in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan
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T INDIA
he country that keeps on giving, India has so much to offer that travelers can discover something new on every journey. Here, our specialists suggest three different trips: Rajasthan for the first-time visitor, Kerala for relaxation and the northeast for those looking for adventure.
RAJASTHAN
By John Cole Recently, I journeyed through Rajasthan in the north of the country, starting in Delhi and meandering through scrub forests, impressive Mughal cities and the fertile Aravalli hills, ending by the mirrorlike lakes of Udaipur. The hectic city streets I found in Jaipur and Jodhpur were a rich tableau of fruit-sellers, spice stalls, Mughal architecture and beeping tuk-tuks – exactly as I had envisioned. However, stopping in more rural towns like Barli, a tiny agricultural settlement built around a 16th-century fort, I saw a more tranquil and slower-paced side to the country. I’d argue that one of the best things about any visit to India is the food, and
with Rajasthan’s access to a bewildering array of spices, this area is a particularly good place to start. Many families in Rajasthan open up their homes to teach some of the region’s traditional culinary skills and recipes, as well as the complex art of blending spices. In Jodhpur I learned that the spices have to be introduced in a certain order to get the best flavors from the meat, and how to adapt them for vegetarian dishes. A highlight of my trip was Ranthambhore National Park, which sprawls out in a patchwork of deciduous forests and scrubland between Agra and Jaipur. The early starts and patience of my game drives paid off – I was lucky enough to see a leopard hunting a sambar deer. On another drive, an almost fully grown male tiger proudly paraded across one of the dusty roads. There’s also a huge, but largely ruined, fort and temple within the national park, which is an ideal place to take a break between the drives. Macaques leapt above my head and banyan trees provided some relief from the sun – I felt like I was living in Kipling’s Jungle Book. Indians have a saying: ‘the guest is god,’ and the culture’s innate hospitality saw me welcomed into many homes during my trip. Numerous families have converted their abodes into homestays, and guests are often
welcomed like a long-lost family member. During my stay at Dev Shree, in Deogarh, the family was keen to show me everything their village had to offer. At sunset I was invited to join them for a drive. I found myself sipping a chilled gin and tonic alongside the parents and grandparents of the family, watching the sun set over the lakes and hills of rural Rajasthan, a moment that I would otherwise have missed. Rajasthan is a great introduction to India for a first-time visitor – you can experience the impressive colors and architecture in the cities, as well as the tranquillity and incredible hospitality of the countryside.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time is around 15 hours direct from New York City. When to go: October to March is the best time to travel, with dry, sunny days. December and January bring cool evenings and cold nights. Get me there: An 11-day tailor-made trip through Rajasthan, including Ranthambhore game drives and cooking experiences, starts from $3,960pp. For more information, please contact one of our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478.
Entering history Two women walking in Amber Fort, Jaipur
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Trails from the riverbanks Cruise Kerala’s backwaters on a houseboat
KERALA
By Bryn Woodworth Kerala, on the southwest coast of India, is an oasis of vegetation, from thick jungles and deciduous forests to tea plantations and backwaters. It works well for both first-time travelers as well as those returning to the subcontinent; the laid-back ambience and cultural traditions differ so much from the north that you may feel like you’re in a different country. Last autumn, I explored the backwaters – a chain of rivers, lakes, canals and lagoons parallel to the coast. There are a number of small, characterful homestays and hotels that are well-placed for relaxing and exploring, or you can take to the water and stay on board a traditional rice barge that’s been converted into a houseboat. While cruising, I ate a locally caught seafood lunch before watching village life pass by as families fished, cooked and swam along the riverbanks. A few hours away, back on land, I was warmly welcomed to Dewalokam homestay
by owners José and Sinta. I joined in the preparations for dinner in the kitchen, where I learned how to make a fragrant moillee (curry) using fish simmered in a ginger, coconut and tomato sauce. Later I was given a tour of the homestay’s farm, to see how the fruits and spices are grown, before relaxing in the tranquil garden by their freshwater pool. Traveling deeper into Kerala, I explored Periyar National Park. A visit to the mist-covered grasslands and deciduous forests was a welcome contrast to the infamous traffic found in the cities. Early one morning, a naturalist accompanied me and, as the sun rose above us, we quietly walked the eucalyptus-lined trails listening for elephants, before enjoying breakfast by a lake. Kerala’s major city Cochin reflects the laid-back ambience found throughout the state. It was once an important trading port, and I saw Portuguese-influenced architecture and Chinese fishing nets as I walked the narrow streets. As the fishermen hauled in their catch from the Arabian Sea, locals bargained for fresh fish.
Winding down for a few days relaxation, I discovered that, as well as postcard-worthy beaches, you can spend time lakeside. At Kumarakom Lake Resort I enjoyed the warmth of the sun and cool breeze off the water as I looked over the vast lake. Relaxing by the pool was the ideal way to end my trip.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time from New York City to Cochin is approximately 17 hours via Delhi, Mumbai or the Middle East. When to go: October to March brings dry, warm weather. Travel is possible in April and May but humidity and temperatures increase. Get me there: A 12-day tailor-made trip traveling in Kerala, including a temple ceremony experience, an early jungle walk and tea tasting, starts from $3,590pp. For more information, please contact one Market trader of our South India specialists A Ha Giangon local returns from Meo Vac 1-855-838-8478. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 15
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THE NORTHEAST
By Hannah Deadman India is a country that’s close to my heart. From living in Kerala, to traveling through central India, Tamil Nadu and Rajasthan, I’ve been lucky to have explored a lot. However, there was one large area that remained undiscovered for me – the northeast. The gateway to the northeastern states is Calcutta, a city of British-colonial architecture, flower markets and an artistic heritage that has nurtured painters, writers and potters. Early one morning, I wandered among the noisy flower sellers sprawling out from Howrah Bridge. Local shoppers were busy negotiating purchases amid stalls piled high with thousands of bright orange marigold garlands. Calcutta is also home to the ever-so-British Victoria memorial and Eden Gardens cricket stadium. The Hugli River cuts through the city, past Christian churches,
Hindu temples and Chinese shrines. Take a walk along the riverside and you’ll often see worshippers performing puja, a prayer ritual where offerings are served up to a deity – in this case, the river itself. I flew onwards to Bagdogra and made my way up into the foothills of the Himalaya and West Bengal, through Kalimpong with its monasteries and flower fields, and across the border into Sikkim. The highest point in my trip was the tiny rural town of Pelling. Situated high above subtropical pine forests, Pelling has views, on a clear day, right across the Rathong Glacier to Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak. I circled back south to reach Darjeeling and was lucky to experience the hill station in November, when the skies were clear. Early one morning, I watched Kanchenjunga’s peak turn from white to pink as the sun rose behind the hills. A British-engineered toy train runs from Darjeeling to the nearby town, and the
Illustration: Scott Jessop
Beijing at its brightest (clockwise from this image) The magnificent Great Wall of China at sunset; the Forbidden City; practising t’ai chi; the Pavilion at the Summer Palace
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Illustration: Scott Jessop
INDIA
Going green (clockwise from this image) Picking tea in Darjeeling; gaze up at the Himalaya; the flower market near Calcutta railway station
highest railway station in India, of Ghoom; the ride offers views down into the valley. From the tiny Bagdogra airport, I took a short domestic flight across to Assam. This relatively flat, fertile state follows the umber waters of the Brahmaputra River. I started in Guwahati, where I was welcomed into Prabhakar Homestay with the best chicken tikka I’ve ever tried. From here I joined a cruise along the river, stopping to see ancient Hindu kingdoms, and the artisans of Majuli Island before ending in the tea region of Dibrugarh. My favorite stop though was Kaziranga National Park, home to the one-horned rhino. The naturalists on my jeep safari knew the area intimately, ensuring I ticked off many of the animals from the ‘wildlife spotting list’ they gave me. One afternoon I found myself just meters away from a rhino, close enough to hear him breathe.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time is approximately 18 hours from New York City to Calcutta via Delhi, Mumbai or the Middle East. When to go: Differing altitudes, mean you can experience varying weather in the northeast. October to March is best for warm weather. December and January are cold in the north of West Bengal and Sikkim but should guarantee crisp views of the snow-capped Himalaya. Get me there: A 12-day tailor-made trip in the northeastern states of West Bengal, Sikkim and Assam starts from $5,750pp. For more information, please contact one of our North India specialists on 1-855-838-8478. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 17
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EXPERIENCES
FAMILY EXPERIENCES IN
JAPAN
Kayaking, drumming, or traveling at high-speed through the country – Japan will keep the whole family entertained
1Meet the snow monkeys
Recommended by Rory Dent While staying in the small hot-spring town of Yudanaka, in the northern Japanese Alps, a visit to see the snow monkeys that bathe in the natural onsen is a must. The native macaques flock to Jigokudani, nicknamed Hell Valley due to its natural geysers and sulphuric smoke, on a daily basis (except for the humid summer months). The best time to see the snow monkeys relaxing is in January or February. You can access Hell Valley via a half-hour gentle hike, suitable for young children, through the woods at the top of Yudanaka town. After exploring the park, visit an onsen in town to experience a hot-spring soak for yourself before dinner.
2 Kayak around Miyajima
Recommended by Elizabeth Jao Spend the afternoon on a kayaking tour around Miyajima, a small, sacred island found in Hiroshima Bay in western Japan – a great activity for teenagers. The most prominent feature of the island is its red torii gate, which, though it appears to float in the bay, can be accessed during low tide. Armed with your life jacket and paddle, you can paddle across a calm strait of the Seto Inland Sea before reaching the island. During the rest of the day, walk onto the island to explore the town, or ride the cable car up 1,755-feet-high Mount Misen for views across Hiroshima Bay, if the weather is clear.
4 Take a Taiko lesson in Tokyo 5Visit the Ghibli Museum Recommended by Tamatha Roman Taiko drumming has been a key feature of traditional Japanese music for centuries, and is still used at the large-scale matsuri (festivals) that occur throughout Japan. This lesson is a chance for the whole family to learn about the long history of the instrument (used to motivate troops in battle) and have a go yourself. Your English-speaking instructor starts with the basics by introducing the different types of drum, stance and tones, before going through some call-and-response exercises: the perfect way for young arms – as well as the simply young at heart – to let off some steam.
Recommended by Michael King Just over half an hour from Tokyo’s busy transport hub of Shinjuku, you’ll find one of the most popular family museums in the country, the Ghibli Museum – perfect for teenage anime fans. Housed in a brightly painted building, it features original prints from all of Hayao Miyazaki’s highly acclaimed and influential motion pictures – including the classic Spirited Away – as well as statues of the characters he brings to life. In the basement is the Saturn Theater, which plays an original animated short film. There’s also a rooftop garden, which offers a moment of tranquillity above the bustle of Tokyo life.
For more information, please contact our Japan specialists on 1-855-834-8210.
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3Travel on a bullet train
Recommended by Rebecca Miller Both children and adults will love the thrill of this futuristic, high-speed travel. Not only is riding a bullet train exciting, it’s cost effective too if you’re traveling as a family – private drivers can be expensive in Japan, but the coverage and reliability of the network allows you to explore the country in comfort and at minimum cost. Pick up a bento box at the train station to eat on board – these meal boxes are made with local ingredients to reflect the area they are from. For example, if you are passing through Kobe, you can expect your box to include beef. The boxes are always very aesthetically pleasing and some even come character-themed for children.
6 Cycle around Takayama
Recommended by Tesia Smith Your whole family can get into the saddle to safely explore the rural Japanese Alps by taking a guided bicycle ride around the outskirts of Takayama. The tour starts at the station, where your guide conducts a brief safety talk. You’re then led to the neighbouring town of Hida, renowned for the clean, natural water that flows in small canals and runs through the town – you can usually see koi carp swimming in them. Cycling on, you’re then taken through rice paddies and past thatched-roof farmhouses, with the Hida Mountains rising up in the distance. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 19
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Reflecting on Taranaki The mountain also known as Egmont looms over the North Island
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THE NEXT GREAT
PEAK
New Zealand is famed for its ‘Great Walks’ – with all the epic scenery of its rivals, and none of the crowds, expect the Pouakai Crossing to arrive on that list soon WORDS BY SARA-JANE STILLWELL
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O
ne thousand meters up the mountain, at the very start of the trail, my guide Jeremy indicated for me to pause. He began to speak a blessing in Maori. The very sound of this unfamiliar, musical tongue made the hairs on the back of my neck stand on end. It was my official induction to the Pouakai Crossing. Located on the western side of New Zealand’s North Island, it’s an 11.8-mile circuit traversing ridges, wetlands and forests, and skirting the precipitous twin peaks of a volcano, Mount Taranaki. Sometimes seen smeared in snow, Taranaki is so sacred to the Maori, they prefer that you don’t stand on its summit. Egmont National Park, which contains Mount Taranaki and the Pouakai Crossing, is situated close to the town of New Plymouth. I’d already spent a couple of days exploring the area, which offers a lot more besides its headline hike. As well
as being a popular surf spot among locals, you can stroll along the town’s coastal boardwalk with its public art (don’t miss the ‘Wind Wand’ by New Zealand movement artist Len Lye), explore its boutiques and art galleries, or even sample the local speciality, botanical gin.
NATURAL DRAMA
In terms of scenic spectacle, the walk is being pitched as the rival to the North Island’s better-known Tongariro Alpine Crossing, an eight-to-nine-hour hike across a blasted volcanic landscape that takes you right into the shadow of Mount Ngauruhoe (it famously served as a double for Mount Doom in Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings trilogy). The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is often hailed as ‘the world’s best day hike’. How would the Pouakai fare? As we started walking, Jeremy recounted the complex story of the terrain I was treading (never try telling a Maori that Taranaki is ‘just a mountain’). No, Maori creation-myth transforms New Zealand’s volcanic geography into the stuff of epic, almost Wagnerian melodrama.
“It all began with a love triangle,” explained Jeremy. “Mount Taranaki got into a fight with Mount Tongariro and ended up retreating with his tail between his legs. It was all over a girl – the feminine Mount Pihanga. “But it ended well: Taranaki, withdrawing towards the Tasman Sea, came across the Pouakai mountain range and promptly fell in love with her instead.” And they all lived happily ever after – mostly. Captain Cook turned up in 1770 and renamed the area Mount Egmont, but in 1985 Maori locals successfully campaigned for the original name to be restored to their mountain.
SETTING OUT
The first hour and a half of the walk was spent climbing up a well-formed track through lush montane forest. We passed under endemic rimu and rata trees – some only saplings, some towering above us. I admired tightly curled fern fronds – called koru by the Maori, for whom they’re a powerful symbol of new life – and couldn’t help gasping every now and again when, through a gap in the trees, I got
North Island or Middle Earth? Taranaki’s rugged White Cliffs Beach at low tide; (right) the Goblin Forest
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NEW ZEALAND a sudden glimpse of the national park spreading out below us. Before long, the scenery began to change and we emerged from the forest into an area of subalpine scrub. The views up here were impressive, whether I looked down the forest slopes, or upwards to the near-symmetrical cone of the sleeping stratovolcano. The day was so clear, I could see all the way to the summits of Tongariro National Park. The vegetation was only knee-height, and speckled with buttercup-like plants. The track leveled off as we made our way around the curve of the cone. Jeremy pointed out the Kokowai Stream running below us, its water reddened by manganese oxide flowing from the surrounding earth. We walked under huge, organ-pipe-like columns of solidified lava known as the
Dieffenbach Cliffs and crossed the Boomerang Slip – appropriately named due to its peculiar shape when viewed from the air. We continued towards our lunch stop at Holly Hut, one of several basic refuges dotted along the track–huts provide a sheltered space to rest as well as fresh drinking water. We passed through paths lined with a shrub called tutu (coriaria), its leaves resembling laurels. But it’s more dangerous than it looks: the sap contains a neurotoxin, tutin, which is responsible for the largest percentage of livestock poisoning in New Zealand. Luckily, we weren’t planning on eating any, so passed through unscathed. We soon rounded the cone onto the northern side of the mountain, and
‘MY GUIDE PICKED THE LEAVES OF A PLANT CALLED HOROPITO (MOUNTAIN PEPPER TREE) – THE MAORI USE THEM TO ADD PIQUANCY TO THEIR COOKING’
came across a section of washed-away earth which showed the mille-feuille-like layers of ash, lava and stone laid down by the volcano during previous eruptions. Just below us, a forest of skeletal pahautea (mountain cedar) stretched grey fingers of dead branches out eerily above the surrounding green scrub – Jeremy explained that it was likely a victim of the drying, salty sea breezes blowing in from the nearby Tasman Sea. He also picked the leaves of a plant called horopito (mountain pepper tree) and gave me them to chew. They left a chilli-like heat on my tongue, so it was no surprise when Jeremy revealed that the Maori use them to add piquancy to their cooking. Beyond the emaciated, bleached-looking pahautea, we had our first glimpse of the Ahukawakawa Swamp, a notorious section of the trail. From up here, the swamp looked more like a grazed paddock, not a fertile wetland. Jeremy took me along a side path for a well-earned packed lunch, where we met some other ‘trampers’ (hikers in New Zealand English). “It’s busy,” said Jeremy,
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Crossing into a new world Mount Taranaki framed with Te Rewa Rewa Bridge; (right) the trail through Pouakai Crossing’s swampland
Good morning, Vietnam Sunrise sends shafts of light over Ha Giang
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NEW ZEALAND
OTHER GREAT DAY HIKES IN NEW ZEALAND
slightly glumly. I should say at this point that we saw about 30 other people in total during the entire crossing.
TOLKIEN’S WORLD
‘LOOKING ACROSS POUAKAI TARN, YOU’RE TREATED TO A FRONT-ON VIEW OF THE GRACEFULLY SLOPING TARANAKI CONE’
After lunch, it was time to descend and tackle the swamp. It reminded me of the plains of Africa in miniature (minus the wildebeest and zebra). Jeremy explained that we must be very careful to not step off the boardwalk, as the solid-looking ground contained hidden deep holes – perfect for swallowing a boot. The path eventually snaked its way back through the montane forest blanketing the Pouakai Range, the tough ascent helped by the early afternoon sun warming my back. After walking across the top of the range, we made our way downhill slightly towards one of the crossing’s most photogenic spots, the Pouakai Tarn. Looking across this glassy pool, you’re treated to a front-on view of the gracefully sloping Taranaki cone, its mirror image reflected in the tarn water – well, that’s the theory. When I reached the tarn, Taranaki’s cone was enveloped in cloud – a common occurrence at this time of day. The Maori say that he’s hiding tears of sadness at the loss of his great love, Pihanga. But each evening, he brightens up, and clears the skies again to stand proud and tall. Jeremy seemed dismayed, but not so much at the weather. ‘It’s so busy!’ he exclaimed (once more). By this, he meant that there were four other people there. This is nothing compared to the average day on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. The contrast was startling. I breathed in deeply and took in the view. Reflection or no reflection, the emotionally volatile volcano loomed
impregnably before me – incredible to think that only a few hours ago, we’d passed right across his lower flanks. From this angle, I also understood why Taranaki has been a stand-in for Mount Fuji – most famously in The Last Samurai. The resemblance was striking. And I needn’t have worried about missing that reflection, as the track had other magic in store to finish the journey with. Descending from the ranges, we entered the final stage of the crossing: an hour’s steady tramp through an area called ‘Goblin Forest’. Here, twisted and gnarled kamahi trees dripping with mosses and lichen shrouded the path; you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped into Tolkien’s Mirkwood – another world entirely.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time is approximately 13 hours to Auckland from Los Angeles. When to go: New Zealand is a great year-round destination. However, if you’re planning to go hiking, we recommend visiting between spring and autumn (September to May) as bridges on the Pouakai Crossing (and most other tracks) are often removed in the southern hemisphere winter, making river crossings dangerous. Get me there: A 21-day tailor-made trip to New Zealand, including a stay in the Taranaki region and the Pouakai Crossing starts from $6,070pp on a self-drive basis. For more information, please contact one of our New Zealand specialists on 1-844-250-3440.
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing One of New Zealand’s officially titled ‘Great Walks’, this North Island hike takes you through 11.8 miles of active volcanic topography. On a clear day, you’ll see cindery craters, lakes of varying outlandish colors, and landscapes that look like the moon’s surface. Abel Tasman Coastal Track Meandering the South Island’s Abel Tasman National Park (pictured), you can take a scenic cruise to a part of the track and walk back to the trailhead in a day. You can even add in some kayaking, or extend your hike into a multi-day walk by staying in lodges or huts en route. Routeburn Track This 20-mile track through Fiordland and Mount Aspiring National Parks takes three days to hike. However, it’s also possible to turn this into a day trek without missing out on views over forested mountains and alpine lakes. Hooker Valley Track This six-mile return walk is over easy-going, flat terrain. You’ll cross swing bridges, and see glacial icefalls and lakes. The track ends at iceberg-strewn Hooker Lake at the foot of Mount Cook (Aoraki). It also makes a lovely spot for lunch. Botanists, take note: the world’s largest buttercup is here.
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City, sea and mountains Rio offers something for everyone
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48 Hours in...
RIO DE JANEIRO Come for the party beaches and samba, stay for the wild scenery, colonial architecture, seafood dishes, and of course a close-up encounter with an iconic monument – Christ the Redeemer WORDS BY MEGAN BACKHEUSER
DAY 1 8AM Start the day by enjoying a breakfast of pao de queijo and fresh fruit while savouring ocean views on the rooftop of the Sofitel q on Ipanema Beach. Afterwards, head out to start exploring some of the most iconic sites in Rio. First stop is Corcovado Mountain where Christ the Redeemer w infamously looms over Guanabara Bay, stretching out his arms to welcome you; it’s a view so stunning that it has been declared one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.
11AM Continue with a visit to Sugarloaf Mountain e. Take the cable cars all the way up to the top for another perspective of the city. From this vantage point, it’s easy to see how Rio earned its nickname, the ‘Marvelous City’. I
recommend stopping for a refreshing caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail, at the relaxing outdoor lounge located at the top of the mountain, blessed with perhaps the best views of Rio.
2PM No trip to Rio would be complete without adequate time to enjoy one of the city’s world famous beaches such as Copacabana or Ipanema. Most beach-front hotels will offer a beach service where towels and chairs are provided. Avenida Atlantica (the main street that runs parallel to the ocean) is also lined with kiosks selling snacks as well as full menus, making it the perfect spot to grab lunch and a local Brahma beer.
8:00pm Head to the Palace r in Copacabana to enjoy a churrascaria, a traditional Brazilian steakhouse. Here you’ll dine like a king as the servers bring around various cuts of succulent meats,served on long metal skewers, right to your table. Save room for a picanha (top sirloin), a local – and visitors’ – favorite.
10:00pm Tonight you will experience Rio’s raucous nightlife by visiting Rio Scenarium t, one of the city’s most iconic samba clubs. Make sure to visit the various floors of this music venue, all performing different styles of samba.
SPECIALISTS’ TOP TIPS The white-sand beaches and samba rhythms of Brazil are now just a few clicks away thanks to the newly introduced e-visa for U.S. and Canadian citizens. Effective January 2018, a Brazil tourist visa is now available for purchase online for a reduced fee of $40. The time to go is now. Matt Nilsson For adventure seekers, I recommend rock climbing up the iconic Sugarloaf Mountain. The gentle slope on the backside of the mountain makes it perfect for novices and advanced climbers alike. Michael Schneider If diving into local culture is what you’re after, then visiting Pedra do Sol is a must. This neighborhood, in the historic part of the city, hosts a street party every Friday night where locals gather to dance samba and celebrate life. However, I strongly recommend going with a guide since this is very much a local event and not many people will speak English. Rachel Robar AUDLEY TRAVELER | 27
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Redeeming features (clockwise from this image) Christ the Redeemer; Old yellow tram in Santa Teresa district; jungle stream; Barra da Tijuca beach
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RIO DE JANEIRO Brazilian people. Of the more than 2,000 tiles that make up this work of art, over 300 were painted by Selaron, the others donated by other artists from around the world.
7pm Complete your 48 hours in Rio with some fine dining and yet again incredible views at Aprazivel in Santa Teresa. Enjoy locally inspired dishes in a tropical garden setting, perfect for those warm Brazilian nights.
DAY 2 9AM After a tasty breakfast, get ready for something entirely different: the Tijuca Forest y, the world’s largest urban jungle, covering 12.3 square miles. You will take in cascading waterfalls, tropical plants and a huge array of wildlife including toucans and capuchin monkeys.
1 PM Next head to Santa Teresa u, a bohemian hilltop neighborhood that boasts Portuguese architecture with quirky galleries and cozy cafes and bars. Stop by Cafe Mineiro for their feijoada (a black bean and pork stew), said to be the best in town. Your guide will then take you to the Selaron Steps, the colorful stairs created by the Chilean-born artist Jorge Selaron as his tribute to the
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: A nonstop flight from New York City to Rio is about 10 hours. Other major U.S. cities that have nonstop flights include Miami, Atlanta and Houston. When to go: Rio is a destination that can be visited all year. However, Rio’s summer (DecemberFebruary) is the most popular time to visit due to all of the festivities including New Years and Carnaval. Winter months (June-August) tend to be less crowded and slightly cooler in temperature. Get me there: A 10-day trip to Brazil’s Green Coast, including time in Rio, starts at around $2,300 per person. For more information, contact our Brazil specialists on 855-838-8610.
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Up close & personal Burchell’s zebra in the evening light in Kruger National Park, South Africa
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DISCOVER YOUR
SAFARI With so many options, it can be hard to know where to begin when planning your African safari. Here, our specialists suggest trips for three readers
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SOUTH AFRICA
“Where in Africa can we see the Big Five but also a range of smaller animals and plant life?” Andrea and Manuel Garcia, Audley travelers ANNA BOUGHEN ”I’d recommend South Africa’s private game reserves as they have some of the most concentrated wildlife populations in the world. Expert guides can drive off-road in search of the Big Five (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, and Cape buffalo) and are eager to share their knowledge. I’ve had some of my best wildlife sightings in Thornybush Private Game Reserve, situated in Kruger National Park, where it’s home to a large leopard population. The focus here is not only on big game, but also on lesser-known wildlife such as aardvarks, bush babies and ground pangolins. Many lodges specialize in walking safaris, where you can track animals on foot while learning about their environment.” ANNA’S SUGGESTED TAILOR-MADE TRIP Day 1 Fly in to Johannesburg and connect to Hoedspruit Airport, close to Thornybush Game Reserve, and transfer to Monwana Game Lodge. The reserve is home to a healthy population of antelope and I always enjoy watching herds of nyala and springbok, as well as dazzles of zebra grazing in the bush. Day 2 My favorite part of being on safari is the early-morning game drives. You have a good chance of spotting nocturnal hunters – I once saw a pride of lion feasting as the sun rose. Expert trackers use their skills to spot animal activity, such as paw prints on the ground. In the evening, dinner is served
around the boma (campfire). You can share anecdotes from your day with fellow guests as the firewood crackles and the air fills with aromas from the braai (barbecue). Day 3 During today’s drive you might see buffalo grazing, or a wild dog pack preparing for their evening hunt. Later, stop in the bush to enjoy a sundowner (cocktail) accompanied by local snacks, such as biltong (dried meat). Day 4 Thornybush is home to over 280 bird species, which are best seen on a guided bush walk. My favorite is the lilac-breasted roller (pictured), whose vivid lilac, blue and turquoise plumage is hard to miss. I’m always
amazed by the rangers’ ability to spot and identify birds just from hearing their call. Day 5 After your final game drive in Thornybush, you’ll be transferred to Plains Camp, situated in a private concession within Kruger – with just four luxurious tents, it ensures group sizes of no more than eight guests. The camp specializes in walking safaris; the trained rangers and trackers are experts in analyzing animal prints and spotting smaller species. They helped me to really appreciate the small details like the smell of fresh elephant dung or the guttural grunt of a leopard. Day 6 On your walks today your ranger and tracker could help you track rhino or elephant. Between walks, relax by the pool or on a private deck. Day 7 Sunrise is the perfect time to be out on foot, because the bush comes alive with whistling cuckoos and choruses of warblers welcoming the day. After breakfast you will transfer to Skukuza Airport for your onward journey. Get me there: A seven-day tailor-made trip to South Africa starts from $4,795pp. For more information, please contact one of our South Africa specialists on 1-855-838-0550. Extend your trip: Fly direct to Cape Town to spend a few days exploring the city and Winelands.
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SAFARI
KENYA
“We are very interested in conservation and would particulary love to see the Great Migration. We’re traveling with young children and want to keep them entertained – where would you recommend?” The Martin family, Audley travelers KATIE SHERMAN ”I’d suggest visiting the Masai Mara: dotted with rock kopjes (ancient rocks), acacia trees and abundant wildlife, it’s probably what you picture when imagining a safari. The Great Migration occurs year round, but the best time to see huge herds of wildebeest and zebra cross the Mara River is between July and October. I also recommend northern Kenya. Here, plains, grasslands, mountain peaks and forests support a wide range of wildlife, including endemic species such as the reticulated giraffe. You can join game drives and guided bush walks, as well as visit local communities. Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is a good place to see what’s happening in the world of conservation, making it the perfect educational opportunity for kids.” KATIE’S SUGGESTED TAILOR-MADE TRIP Day 1 Fly direct in to Nairobi and transfer to Karen, a suburb named after Karen Blixen, the Danish author of Out of Africa, who settled in this area in the early 1900s. Stay at Hemingways Nairobi, which has views over the Ngong Hills. While here I recommend visiting the nearby David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, an elephant orphanage and rehabilitation center. Day 2 Fly to the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy – a leader in wildlife conservation and home to the Northern Five species endemic to northern Kenya (the Somali ostrich, Beisa oryx, generuk, reticulated giraffe and Grévy’s zebra). This afternoon, head out
on your first game drive, with Mount Kenya as your backdrop. Day 3 As the rising sun creeps over distant peaks and plains, head out on foot with your Maasai guide, for a lesson in survival skills and tracking techniques used here for millennia. Day 4 Meet Lewa’s conservation team and learn about anti-poaching efforts. Later, your guide will show children fun places to explore; they can enjoy catching freshwater crabs and clambering over rocky outcrops. Day 5 Arrive in the Great Rift Valley and the Masai Mara’s grasslands. Stay at Ol Seki
Mara Camp, which overlooks the plains in the Naboisho Conservancy – a birdwatcher’s paradise and home to big cats in impressive numbers. There are far fewer vehicles here than in the main reserve. The conservancy is also committed to protecting and empowering the local Maasai community. Day 6 During the Great Migration, the smell of rain drives two million wildebeest from Tanzania’s Serengeti to the Masai Mara. The herds must cross the perilous Mara River, where crocodiles lie in wait. Lion and other predators also take the opportunity to pounce. Spend the day on a game drive in the main reserve, hopefully witnessing a river crossing and spotting some big game. Day 7 On your last full day of safari, choose between game drives and walking safaris. Spend your final evening sitting on a kopje (small hill), drink in hand, watching the sinking sun burnish the sky. Day 8 Fly back to Nairobi to catch your onwards flight. Get me there: An eight-day tailor-made trip starts from $6,600pp. For more information, please contact one of our Kenya specialists on 1-855-838-0510. Extend your trip: Add three nights on Kenya’s coast at Hemingways Watamu – a protected marine park with whitesand beaches and clear waters perfect for snorkeling. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 33
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Deep in the delta Taking a trip in a mokoro is a great way to experience the Okavango
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SAFARI
BOTSWANA
“Where would you recommend for an active trip with plenty of wildlife-spotting opportunities and a touch of luxury?” Pamela Morrison, Audley traveler ALEX COOKE ”Botswana is a great destination for a luxurious trip with plenty of wildlife-spotting opportunites. As well as a range of land-based activities, you can enjoy trips in motorized boats and mokoros (traditional canoes) in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. I recommend combining ‘wet’ areas with places that focus on land-based safaris. Game drives give you a higher chance of seeing big game, while bush walks focus on smaller aspects of the ecosystem, from insects and birds to plant life, and let you stay active. Botswana offers luxurious accommodation with service to match, exceptional food and a genuine wilderness feel.” ALEX’S SUGGESTED TAILOR-MADE TRIP Day 1 Fly in to Johannesburg and board your connecting flight to Maun. From here, take a short light-aircraft flight into the Okavango Delta and arrive at Nxabega Camp (pictured right). Evening game drives here offer a chance to see nocturnal wildlife such as African wildcats and honey badgers. Set within a private concession, each tent looks out over the delta. This area is known for its diversity of birds – I spotted a Pel’s fishing owl on my most recent trip. Day 2 Early morning is the best time for a game drive as the animals are at their most active – afterwards, you can enjoy
a hearty cooked breakfast back at the lodge. Today I’d recommend exploring the delta’s waterways by mokoro; look out for reed frogs, malachite kingfishers and the semi-aquatic sitatunga during the day, or watch herons and egrets come in to roost in the reeds at sunset. Day 3 This morning you can enjoy a brief game drive en route to the airstrip. A short scenic flight takes you over the delta into another private concession, where you’ll spend two nights at Xudum Lodge. The area surrounding Xudum (pronounced koodum) changes throughout the year as water levels rise and fall.
Day 4 Discover the ancient survival techniques of San Bushmen as they use nature to guide you on a bush walk. Prior to your afternoon safari, enjoy a meal from the interactive kitchen and relax in your private plunge pool. Day 5 Another light aircraft flight takes you to your third private concession, and you arrive at the doorstep of Selinda Camp by speedboat. Boating safaris are popular and the region is also renowned for its elephant and buffalo populations. The guides here are trained photographers and can help you capture the best possible images. Day 6 Your guide can suggest an activity based on their knowledge of recent animal movements. This region boasts a healthy population of highly endangered African wild dog, so I suggest heading out on a game drive to look for them. Wild Patagonia
guanaco gazes across Day 7 Depart the deltaAwith a helicopter the limpid blue waters ride from Selinda Camp to Maun, where of Lake Pehoé you take your onward flight.
Get me there: A seven-day tailor-made trip to Botswana starts from $7,120pp. For more information, please contact one of our Botswana specialists on 1-855-838-0530. Extend your trip: Add on three nights at Thorntree River Lodge in the Mosi Oa Tunya National Park, Zambia, for a chance to visit Victoria Falls. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 35
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Our specialists’ latest dispatches from Kenya, Antarctica, Peru and Italy
KENYA
Amy Czarnecki Kenya was more than I imagined with its density of wildlife, and conservancies boasting southern white and northern black rhino as well as elephant too. There, I watched migrating super-herds of elephant graze along the plains at sunset, experienced a mother white rhino nursing her calf, and saw so many ‘elusive’ black rhino with young, mating and grazing that I lost count!
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GET INSPIRED
ANTARCTICA
Kathryn Waxman With 24 hours of daylight, time ceased to exist. As we cruised on the Zodiac through the mirrored water, penguins danced on an iceberg to our left, elephant seals lounged to our right, humpback whales surfaced in the distance, and glaciers towered all around. As I absorbed my surroundings, I realized how lucky I was to see this untouched part of the planet.
SICILY
Eva Costanza Thanks to the mixture of cultures that still exist to this day, Palermo has an intangible vibrancy. The architecture is a mix of Baroque, Arab, Norman, and Neoclassical styles. The food and spice markets, such as Capo and Ballaro, are some of Italy’s liveliest. For those seeking a welcoming, yet gritty, city with an exciting fusion of traditions, Palermo will not disappoint.
PERU
Harry Stone My favorite moment of my recent Peru visit was hiking the Kilometer 104, a one-day hike that let me experience the final day of the Inca Trail, arriving at Machu Picchu in the same fashion that the Incas would have. The hike took about 5 hours to complete, passing through ruins, rainforest, and valleys with Andean Condors flying ahead.
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Tequila time Agave cutters (called jimadores) farm the UNESCO-listed agave fields ready for distilling
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THE OTHER SIDE OF
MEXICO
Ancient ruins, creative hubs and quiet coastal towns – discover the little-known corners of this diverse nation WORDS BY SCOTT HARRINGTON
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MEXICO
“Evenings on the Zihuatanejo coastline are made for quiet, candle-lit dinners overlooking the blinking lights of fishing boats swaying in the gentle waves of the bay”
W
hat comes to mind when you think of Mexico? Perhaps the turquoise waters and white-sand beaches of its eastern Caribbean coast, or Maya and Aztec ruins such as Teotihuacán or Chichén Itzá. However, there are many lesserknown places that are often entirely overlooked when it comes to planning a trip to this part of the world. For that reason, I returned to the country to focus on some of the areas that receive less fanfare. From laid-back beach towns to local artisan markets, these places are ideal for a taste of authentic Mexico.
CUERNAVACA & TAXCO
Few of Mexico City’s visitors take the time to explore some of the quieter towns and sights nearby, such as Cuernavaca q, a small city only an hour-and-a-half’s drive from the capital. Even the journey there is a delight: while escaping the traffic of Mexico City’s central Distrito Federal requires patience, those who do are soon rewarded with the wide-open, mountainous panoramas of Cumbres del Ajusco National Park en route. A comparatively tiny city of 350,000 people (21.3 million inhabit the capital), Cuernavaca is named after the Nahuatl (Aztec) word meaning ‘surrounded by trees’ thanks to its forested environs. Walking through the leafy Centro Cultural Jardín Borda
park and the historic center, I was struck by how much slower the pace of life was compared to the capital. It’s the kind of town where you can sit back and watch everyday life unfold from a cafe. It has historical importance, too. The fortress-like Palacio de Cortés, built in Gothic-Mudéjar style, originally served as the residence of the famous conquistador in 1535. It now houses a museum dedicated to the history of Morelos, the state of which Cuernavaca is the capital – as well as several original murals by Diego Rivera. An hour-and-a-half’s drive southwest from Cuernavaca is the hillside town of Taxco w. Once known for its booming mining industry, the town now draws attention for its well-restored colonial center and intricate silverwork workshops. Strolling the winding cobblestone streets, you can see shop after shop displaying necklaces, rings and sculptures celebrated throughout Mexico for the quality of their craftsmanship. Taxco also makes a great base from which to visit the archaeological site of Xochicalco e. Made largely from pillars of white stone, one of the site’s most striking ruins is the pyramid of Quetzalcóatl. Its carvings seem to suggest that the edifice hosted twice-annual gatherings of astronomer-priests.
ZIHUATANEJO
Mexico’s southern coast is probably best known for the resort of Acapulco, a go-to beach destination
from the 1970s to the 1990s. These days, the once-sleepy fishing village of Zihuatanejo r, four-and-a-half hours to the west, is stealing the limelight as one of Mexico’s best beaches. Set around a crescent bay, Zihuatanejo is fronted by a beach promenade, with scores of local restaurants and shops hiding in the narrow streets surrounding the waterside. I particularly liked a property called La Casa Que Canta: from the privacy of your balcony, you can take in 180-degree views of the Pacific Ocean and the white sands of the town’s Playa la Ropa. Evenings here are made for quiet dinners overlooking the blinking lights of fishing boats swaying in the gentle waves of the bay. Even the more basic hotels in Zihuatanejo offer direct access to the town’s clean beaches with their pop-up massage stands and kayak rentals. You could choose to explore nearby islets on boat trips, go snorkeling, or simply walk the long stretches of soft sands, where small family-run restaurants serve up fresh catches in delicious ceviche dishes, along with margaritas.
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a. A view from a garden terrace of the historic old Cathedral in Cuernavaca b. The beautiful Santa Prisca Church in Taxco de Alarcón c. The dome of Santa Prisca Cathedral, Taxco d. Ceviche (raw fish marinated in lime juice) – a classic Latin American staple e. Xochicalco’s Temple of the Feathered Serpent f. The Pacific Ocean lapping at the shores of Playa la Ropa, Zihuatanejo g. A rock formation in the dramatic Copper Canyon h. Baked agave – an important ingredient for distilling tequila i. An artisan basket maker in Cuernavaca
COPPER CANYON
In the north of the country lies Copper Canyon t, or Barrancas del Cobre, which is actually made up of six canyons; their combined length, depth and altitude are greater than the USA’s Grand Canyon. This remote area is traditionally home to the indigenous Tarahumara,
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a. The cathedral at Guadalajara b. A local market, Zihuatanejo c. The cable car at Barrancas, near Copper Canyon d. Enjoy a margarita in Santiago de Tequila e. An agave tequila landscape, Guadalajara f. Women dancing in traditional dress, Guadalajara g. Cusarare waterfall, Barrancas h. A Tarahumara woman making pineneedle baskets for sale in Barrancas i. The train rolling through Copper Canyon
who are known for being exceptional long-distance, high-altitude runners. Due to the fissured landscape, roads are limited in this region, and travel can be long and difficult. 0 150 miles Thankfully,0the Copper Canyon is 242 kilometres also home to the El Chepe railway, which covers 417 miles from Los Mochis y to Chihuahua u, with a number of stops in between. I began my own journey in the town of El Fuerte i. Its hilltop fort offers uninterrupted views of the arid terrain and it’s an excellent place to watch the sun set before beginning your trip the following day. The train passes through El Fuerte early in the morning before heading north. This first stretch of the journey is the most visually entertaining, with forested hills slowly giving way to more rugged scenery. Disembarking at Bahuichivo, you can spend a night in the nearby town of Cerocahui o, exploring its walking trails and waterfalls by foot or on horseback. The town also – unexpectedly – has a flourishing wine industry. I recommend heading to Hotel Misión for a tasting or tour. The next leg of the journey takes you to Barrancas a, where you’ll be treated to aerial views over the canyon. There are a number of ways to take in its scenery and scale: at the Parque de Aventura, you can explore via cable car, hiking and cycling trails, or by the 1.5-mile-long ‘ziprider’ which reaches speeds of 85 mph and left me speechless.
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GUADALAJARA & TEQUILA
With a population of nearly five million people, Guadalajara s, 310 miles to the northwest of Mexico City, is surprisingly seldom mentioned in the guide books. This is even more confusing when you arrive and see its exceptionally well-preserved, UNESCO-protected colonial center which dates back to 1532. Mexicans will readily identify Guadalajara’s cathedral, with its lofty twin spires, as part of their national iconography. Across the Plaza de la Liberación, the eight pillars of the Teatro Degollado are illuminated with a light show each evening, while inside, its program of operas, plays and concerts attracts international talent. A walking tour of Guadalajara’s compact center is worth it for the last stop alone, which allows you to peek at José Clemente Orozco’s highly political frescoes in the Insituto Cultural Cabanas. His work is less realistic and more symbolistic than his better-known contemporary, Diego Rivera. Guadalajara is also one of the best culinary cities to visit in Latin America. Local dishes include torta ahogada, a pork sandwich smothered in a sweet vinegar, garlic and spicy sauce and served on a birote bread roll. Then there’s birria de chivo, a spicy goat stew; it’s often served at special events such as weddings. Just an hour-and-a-half north of Guadalajara you’ll find the
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small town of Santiago de Tequila d, the proud home of the Mexican spirit and the blue agave plant it’s made from. Here, I was able to visit both world-famous and small, artisanal tequila factories, learning about the process of cultivation, harvesting, cooking and fermenting – and some sampling too. Walking the fields of sweetsmelling agave with a local jimador (farmer) really made me appreciate why this drink is so widely respected in both Latin America and increasingly across the world, with subtle alterations in terrain causing noticeable differences in taste and clarity. I’d advise staying overnight here: not only does it give you a chance to enjoy this small town free from day-trippers, but the modest bars in its side streets serve the best organic margaritas you’re likely to ever drink.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time from New York City to Mexico City is around five hours direct. When to go: November to May is the dry season across most of the country, though be aware that the Copper Canyon can get a bit cold during this period. Get me there: A 15-day tailormade trip, including all the areas mentioned, starts from $6,200pp. For more information, please contact one of our Mexico specialists on 1-855-838-8670. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 43
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Island life Do you want to explore the rugged rocks of Ireland’s Inis Mór (this) or Skye off the Scottish coast (right)?
HEAD TO HEAD
INIS MÓR vs I
Those seeking something a little wilder in the UK and Ireland only need to
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here are almost 200 inhabited islands scattered off the coast of the British Isles, and many are places where time seems to have stood still. Visiting them gives you a chance to see wild, unspoiled landscapes and explore pockets of authentic culture. Here, our UK and Ireland specialists discuss the charms of two of our favorites.
INIS MÓR, IRELAND
By Andea McLaughlin A tiny, wind-battered archipelago off the coast of County Clare, the Aran Islands are a stronghold of traditional Irish culture. Residents still ride on horse-drawn jaunting carts and call to each other in Gaelic while fishermen carry out their trade in currachs, small woodenframed boats covered in watertight cloth. Inis Mór, the largest island, is easily visible from the coast and you reach it via a short (45 minute) ferry ride or even shorter (6 minute) plane ride. Landing, you can be excused if you think you’ve reached another world or time. Geologically, this is an extension of the Burren and shares the same weathered landscape, the bedrock scoured bare and poking through the sparse top soil.
Tiny stone cottages dot the rocky landscape, surrounded by cows nibbling on the low green turf and the colorful wildflowers that grow in the cracks of the karst. Despite the island’s small size and sparse population (fewer than 800 permanent residents), there’s enough here to see to fill a whole day. The Seven Churches – locally known as Na Seacht Teampaill – are the skeletal ruins of two early Christian churches dedicated to the 5th-century Saint Brecan, as well as monastic houses and a stillfunctioning burial yard. Those titular seven saints are said to be buried in the cemetery, possibly explaining the confusing name.
Last time I visited, the fog had just rolled in and the whole site had an eerie feel, with high crosses and random gravestones emerging out of the mist like ghostly apparitions. A short ride away, Dún Aonghasa is a semicircular Iron Age fortress on the southern coast. At least 2,000 years old, the seemingly primitive limestone walls are actually a sophisticated lace-like design intended to let the relentless sea winds whistle through. There are three loosely concentric walls that end abruptly at the cliff’s edge. It’s a sheer drop down more than 280 feet to where the waves batter the rocks below. Like the better-known Cliffs of Moher, Dún Aonghasa offers sweeping views along the snaking coast. Unlike Moher, there are neither crowds nor protective barriers to interfere with the view and you’ll see people lying on the very edge of the bare stone, peering over the precipitous edge. Be careful, the rocks are sometimes shakier than they appear and the wind can gust suddenly. The only town of any size on the islands is Kilronan, on Inis Mór, where visitors arrive and depart. It’s more like a village than a town, but you’ll find pubs and shops selling Celtic-themed jewelry and the intricately cabled sweaters that the islands are known for.
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ISLE OF SKYE
head out to the rugged isles that dot their waters – but which is best for you? ISLE OF SKYE, SCOTLAND
By Emily Sparrow It’s easy to see why fairytales persist in the misty glens and gleaming lochs of Skye. The landscape is unearthly – the rolling moors and green hills are punctuated with weirdly shaped rock formations and silvery waterfalls that are wreathed in rainbows. Located off the west coast of Scotland, Skye is large enough to support several days of exploration for visitors, especially if you enjoy the outdoors. On an island known for its natural beauty, it’s not surprising that hiking is one of the most common pastimes. Be sure to pack sturdy boots and waterproof gear – the weather is changeable and damp. A common destination for travelers is a series of waterfalls called the Fairy Pools, made popular thanks to images shared on social media. But sadly the site is often thronged with tourists and the pictures are heavily filtered, so as an alternative I suggest visiting the Fairy Glen instead. Located near Uig Bay on the western side of the island, the glen is a typical Highland landscape – grassy hummocks, ridged hills and crystalline lochs – all wrought in miniature.
If you prefer to limit your hiking, I suggest hiring a local driver-guide for a car tour of the island. Roads are narrow and twisty and locals zip along them at breakneck speeds, so having someone else drive while I admired the views felt much safer. Also, GPS doesn’t work well on the island and my guide knew how to navigate around the occasional traffic jam. Dunvegan Castle sits at the mouth of Loch Dunvegan, a strategic stronghold and home of the MacCleod clan since 1200. The low, blocky castle is made from dull grey-brown stone that seems to blend in with the countryside, a uniform façade that dates
back to a Victorian-era renovation. Inside, however, you’ll find a hodgepodge of styles spanning eight centuries. On my most recent visit, I took a tour of the castle and saw some of the artifacts that have accumulated over the clan’s lengthy tenure here, including a 16th-century drinking horn and a tattered, yellow silk flag that is said to be a gift to the clan from local fairies. I ended the tour by sharing a dram of whisky with the castle’s steward, hearing legends and history from the clan’s long history. Along with whisky, salmon is another mainstay on the menus of Skye. Thanks to the abundance of salmon in the pristine waters of the island’s many lochs, fishing has long made up an important part of the local culture and economy. I recently tried my hand at landing a salmon myself, with the help of a ghillie (a traditional fishing or hunting guide). I didn’t catch anything, I’m afraid, but standing on the banks of the River Snizort, I gained a new appreciation for the seemingly ageless culture that persists here on Skye. Get me there: A 11-day trip to the UK and Ireland, including Inis Mór and the Isle of Skye, starts at $4,550pp. For more information, please contact our UK and Ireland specialists at 1-855-593-2006. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 45
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Japan’s red ramble Thousands of vermilion torii gates create a wonder walk at the Fushimi Inari Shrine
JAPAN
Arlene & Kenny Weiss traveled to Japan with Audley
W
hen I asked my husband where he’d like to go on our next trip, he said Japan. I started to do some research on my own but the task was daunting, so I turned to one of Audley’s Japan specialists. My husband likes history and we both like visiting small towns, wanting to experience a mix of hotels and ryokans (traditional Japanese Inns) and onsens (hot mineral baths).
JAPANESE JOURNEY
Starting our trip with four nights in Tokyo, a full-day guided tour introduced
us to both the city and the rail system. I must admit that, when I first saw all the trains we had to take, I wondered how we were ever going to manage as we didn’t speak the language. By the second day, I was comfortably using the train system and we were able to get around easily. After our guided tour of Tokyo, we spent the next three days exploring different parts of the city and the surrounding areas, including Kamakura, about 45 minutes by train outside the capital. This seaside city has lots of Shinto shrines and a busy shopping plaza. Our specialist had also booked us tickets to
a kabuki performance (a classical Japanese dance-drama) in Tokyo. We left Tokyo to spend two nights in Yudanaka, a hot-spring resort in the Japanese Alps, to see the snow monkeys that bathe in the waters. The town is also known for its ryokans, and ours had a private rooftop onsen. Next, we journeyed to Matsumoto to see Crow Castle (Japan’s oldest wooden castle), staying in a beautiful hotel five-minutes’ walk away. We also visited the Ukiyo-e Museum to see its exhibit of woodblock prints. You’re able to send your luggage ahead when you travel by bullet train,
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TRAVELERS’ TALES
and we forwarded our suitcases from Tokyo to the next city (Kanazawa). When we arrived at our hotel, our luggage was waiting for us. The following morning, our private guide met us at our hotel to show us the city’s sights, including the magnificent Kenrokuen Garden, one of Japan’s great horticultural sights. After three days in Kanazawa, we headed to Miyajima Island to spend two nights in a ryokan. We saw the island’s floating torii gate and Shinto shrine, and the next morning our guide took us by ferry to Hiroshima to tour the Peace Memorial Museum and Park, and the remains of the Genbaku Dome (the sole surviving building in the area where the bomb exploded). Leaving Miyajima, we headed to Matsuyama by jetfoil for two nights in an onsen town. From here, we hiked part of the 88 Temples Pilgrimage (a 745-mile loop around the island of Shikoku).
KYOTO CALLING
We then headed to Kyoto, where we stayed in a centrally located boutique hotel. That evening, we toured the geisha district with our private guide, Duncan – he also took us on a full-day tour of the city the next day. We loved Kyoto. The following day, we
went to the Fushimi Inari Shrine, where thousands of torii gates create tunnels across the landscape, and then to Nara to see its well-preserved temples and shrines. We left Kyoto for one night to see Mount Fuji in Hakone National Park, where we stayed in a beautiful ryokan. Due to the clouds, we couldn’t see the mountain that evening, but it revealed itself the next morning. We took the Hakone Ropeway up to a lookout in the Hakone hills, and followed this by cruising to view the peak from the lake. After another night back in Kyoto, we went by train to the town of Bizen to see its pottery and kilns (some of the pottery techniques here are more than a thousand years old). In Kyoto, we spent half a day with a guide to see
the Silver Pavilion Gardens (Ginkaku-ji) and walk on the Philosopher’s Walk. The following day, we took the train to Osaka and toured the Umeda Center Building in the morning. Japan has a professional baseball league, and in the afternoon we watched a Hanshin Tigers game (using tickets our specialist had pre-arranged for us). We had two more days in Tokyo before we flew home, our specialist suggested some new areas to see. We went to the National Palace Museum in Ueno and walked through the small town of Yanaka. We loved our trip and arrived home with great memories and experiences.
Gazing into green Exploring traditional Japanese gardens is not to be missed; (above) Arlene with a new friend and (top) catching Geisha on the move
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Past successes (clockwise from this) In front of the Temple of Ramses II; the Sabil-Kuttab of Sultan Qaitbey dates from the 15th century; the view from Saladin Citadel; the Mohammed Ali Mosque; the stepped Pyramid of Djoser at Saqqara Necropolis
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TRAVELERS’ TALES
EGYPT
Steve Zarate traveled through Egypt with Audley
E
gypt has long been a bucket list destination, and we finally got there in 2017. It is one of those places that we learned and read about in grade school; the subject of Hollywood movies and the only surviving building of the original seven ancient wonders of the world. Just hearing ‘Egypt’ stirred our imagination to think of pyramids, Cleopatra, mummies and the riddle of the Sphinx. Although this has been a tourist destination for thousands of years, we hesitated to visit due to political instability in recent years and State Department warnings for U.S. citizens “to consider the risks of travel due to threats from terrorist and violent political opposition groups.” So we put it off but kept hearing from fellow travelers that tourism was down and that made it a great time to visit Egypt (that was indeed the case).
We made contact with Audley Travel, who we consider a trusted partner in planning our travels (we have now traveled with Audley to 13 different countries). We are interested in both nature and culture and find that private travel is the best way to fulfill our interests, curiosity and sense of discovery and adventure. So we went and were not disappointed. We never felt unsafe and it was reassuring to see all the measures that the Egyptian travel industry was taking to ensure tourist safety.
WALKING IN HISTORY
Formed in 10,000 BC, Egypt was one of the world’s first nation states. It was an important center of Christianity beginning in the 1st century, and the Coptic Christian Orthodox Church is one of the oldest Christian churches. Egypt was already an ancient civilization in biblical times and is mentioned over 700 times in the Bible.
Today, Egypt is predominantly Sunni Muslim and Islam is the state religion. Egypt’s population and flow of history has been based around the Nile River, so it seemed appropriate to organize our trip along the Nile. Working with Audley Travel’s country specialist Brigitte, we developed an outstanding itinerary that covered the length of the Nile from Alexandria on the Mediterranean Sea all the way to Abu Simbel near the southern border with Sudan. We traveled by car, by plane, horse carriage, and on the Nile by ferry, motor boat, felucca sail boat, and steam ship. Photography is a hobby and Egypt is a photographer’s playground. The architecture, ancient artefacts, churches, mosques, people and everyday culture are all lively and colorful subjects. We tell our friends to go visit the country before the crowds return! AUDLEY TRAVELER | 49
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TRAVELERS’ TALES
#TheAudleyWay We love receiving your updates on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and even if you’re not currently traveling you can share images from your recent trips based on each edition’s theme. NATURAL PATTERNS
@astrogerm The Milky Way from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
Maggie Sale A peacock display at Yala National Park, Sri Lanka
Wendy Amero Creighton A leopard in the Serengeti, Tanzania
@angelaroberts1000 Purple-rumped sunbird, Sri Lanka
@hernehillian Amaryllis Homestay, Karnataka, India
@Fuzzie0004 Three oryx in Etosha National Park, Namibia
Louise Davies A tiger in Ranthambhore National Park, India
@jena_christineh Giraffe in South Africa
Dan Clements A kingfisher, Ranthambhore National Park, India
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The summer 2018 Audley Traveler theme will be… architecture Whether it’s Mexico’s Mayan ruins or 21st-century skyscrapers in Hong Kong, we want to see the best architecture-themed photographs from your travels. To take part, write #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTravel on your Instagram or Twitter posts. Alternatively, you can post directly to our Facebook wall or upload your image to www.audleytravel.com/us/social
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FIND OUT MORE... To request a brochure please visit: www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures or call 1-855-838-8300
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