March & April 2020 Issue 144
Why SPF isn’t just
for summer
t a h w h O ! w o h s a
As spring approaches, we reveal the latest launches, industry innovators and treatment trends driving the sector at the Irish Beauty Show.
Sculpt & Camouflage with Builder Gels
What’s
BIG in brows
for 2020
5
Editor's Letter.
Contact Publisher Brett Fairholm +44 (0) 1480 353 433 brett@irishbeauty.ie Editor Melissa Dennis-Casement melissa@irishbeauty.ie Design Darren Hassett darren@aitireland.com Advertising & Exhibition Sales Brett Fairholm +44 (0) 1480 353 433 brett@irishbeauty.ie Accounts Tracey Board 1800 625 179 tracey@aitireland.com
The Irish Beauty Show 2020 runs on Sunday 8th and Monday 9th March at the RDS, in association with ABT and Irish Beauty magazine. If you’ve yet to do so, book your tickets online at www.irishbeauty.ie, where you can also plan your visit.
Marketing Amelia Black 1800 625 179 amelia@aitireland.com ABT Student Ambassador Martin Widdicombe +44 (0) 7854 610089 martin@abtinsurance.co.uk Subscriptions 1800 625 179 Online www.irishbeauty.ie IrishBeautyShow
Now that March is here it means just one thing – it’s show time! Welcome to the Irish Beauty Show issue, packed with everything you need to know to get the most out of your visit.
@IrishBeautyShow @irishbeautyshow
Official Partners
The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in Irish Beauty and cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions from any information given in this or previous editions of Irish Beauty or for any consequences thereof.
Just flip this issue over to discover your packed Show Guide, filled with exhibitors’ show offers, details of who’s appearing on stage, floor plans, guides to this year’s Irish National Make-up, Nail and Body Paint Tournaments, and of course, a list of everyone who is exhibiting at the show. There’s also a handy FAQs section, as well as our guide to getting the most out of your show experience. Inside this issue of Irish Beauty, we also showcase the latest beauty, nails and tanning product launches, as well as highlight new treatments available to Irish salons and spas; now that the spring season is here there are some fabulous new
releases that we’re super excited about. You’ll find loads of them at the show! As you’d expect, the Irish Beauty team will be at the show and we’d love to meet you! Come and visit the team and myself on our stand, share your ideas on what you’d like us to feature in the magazine in the future, and let us show you around our Irish Beauty website, complete with the latest industry news, beauty business listings, in-depth articles and how-tos. Remember to follow the event on social media, and like, tag and share your photos and videos of the Irish Beauty Show 2020 so we can see who you’ve met, which new products you’ve discovered and what you’ve been buying! Find us at @IrishBeautyShow / IrishBeautyShow and tag #IrishBeauty #IrishBeautyShow #IrishBeautyMagazine We’re looking forward to meeting you!
Melissa Dennis-Casement Editor, Irish Beauty
Contents 30
Beauty: Brow Treatments
Lamination, bespoke colouring and fluffy finishes are set to big in brows for 2020.
38
Nails: Builder Gels Today’s choice of builder gels offer strength, elegance and faster enhancement options for sculpting and camouflage.
40
Candice Gardner Writes: Year-round UV Protection Dermalogica’s Candice Gardner on why SPF isn’t just for summer.
43
Beauty Talks Flair’s Emma James meets Make-up Artist Michelle Regazzoli Stone, AKA MRS Makeup.
44
Irish Beauty Show 2020 Preview
Regulars 11 Snapshot! 22
Beauty Product News
36
Nail Products & News
42
Education News & Updates
Everything you need to know to get the most out of your visit to this year’s event.
9
................................................................................................................................................................................................................... SNAPSHOT!
Snapshot!
CATCH UP ON ALL THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE FAST-MOVING & DYNAMIC WORLD OF BEAUTY
ABT appoints Student Ambassador
ABT has appointed Martin Widdicombe as ABT Student Ambassador for the UK and Ireland. Martin re-joins ABT in the role after a period of semi-retirement. As ABT Student Ambassador, Martin will be coordinating ABT’s engagement with colleges and training providers across the UK and Ireland. This will include facilitating student presentations and communicating the benefits of ABT’s Student Membership to students studying for qualifications in beauty, nails, complementary therapies, hair and barbering, as well as college lecturers and industry educators. Commenting on his appointment as ABT Student Ambassador, Martin Widdicombe says: “I am delighted to be re-joining ABT as Student Ambassador, a role I started initially in 2009. Working with our future generation of beauty and hair professionals is immensely rewarding, and having the opportunity to visit colleges and meet students in person enables ABT to tailor our Student Membership to meet their needs as well as offer guidance and support as they look to forge successful careers.” Dave Horton, ABT Director, adds:
BarberPro support charity Look Good Feel Better BarberPro have teamed up with cancer support charity Look Good Feel Better to curate the It’s All Good Gift Set, a limited-edition set of award-winning sheet masks, with 10% of the retail price of every sale donated to the initiative. Developed for cancer patients, the Look Good Feel Better charity runs confidence workshops, providing attendees with valuable skills and techniques to better manage the side effects of treatment, using appropriate products to care for their skin and help promote well-being. Designed specifically to meet the needs of male skin, BarberPro’s It’s All Good Gift Set includes a hydrating and calming Post Shave Cooling Mask, a nourishing CBD Oil Infused Mask, and two brightening Under Eye Masks. BarberPro aim to raise £30,000 (approximately €35,000) which would provide 600 spaces at Look Good Feel Better confidence boosting workshops. BarberPro products are available from Flair.
“We’re very happy to have Martin back in the role of ABT Student Ambassador, a role he excelled in previously. Despite his time in semi-retirement, Martin still has a wealth of knowledge to pass onto the students he meets during his college visits, and we look forward to him reconnecting with college lecturers and introducing himself to new beauty and hair schools across the UK and Ireland.” ABT Student Membership is available to all beauty, nails, complementary therapy and hairdressing students and includes a comprehensive insurance package through Catlin Insurance (UK) Ltd which includes up to €6.5 million Professional Treatment Risks insurance, €6.5 million Public Liability insurance and €6.5 million Product Liability insurance for students’ Case Study work or for other work prior to qualification. For information on ABT Student Membership, visit www.abtinsurance.ie or email Martin Widdicombe at martin@abtinsurance.co.uk
11
................................................................................................................................................................................................................... SNAPSHOT!
Bioglitter reveal first plastic free iridescent glitter Ronald Britton Ltd, creators of the world’s first plastic-free glitter, has developed Bioglitter™ Pure Opal, an iridescent glitter that is 100% plastic-free.
The iridescent glitter is a new effect within the Bioglitter™ Pure product family, and has a reflective and shimmer quality, which, up until this point has been impossible to achieve in a microplastic-free glitter. To make Bioglitter™ products plastic-free, Ronald Britton Ltd use a special form of cellulose, unique to the company, which has passed independent tests including TÜV, Austria’s ‘OK Biodegradable Water’ Certification, which guarantees biodegradation in natural, freshwater environments.
NSI recognised for beauty training excellence
NSI Hair, Nail and Beauty were amongst the winners at the third annual Irish Beauty Industry Awards 2019, held at The Crowne Plaza Hotel Dublin Airport. NSI scooped Best Training Academy of the Year whilst NSI trainer, Gemma McCarthy of Gemini Beauty in Dublin, picked up the Best Nail Technician award. Other notable winners included Touch & Glow in Carrickmacross (Beauty Therapist of the Year), and The Wicklow Street Clinic in Dublin (Aesthetic Clinic of the Year), and Aqua Spa in Cork (Day Spa of the Year).
Clean beauty popularity continues to rise
The growth of the “clean” beauty movement is continuing, with new research showing that brands are proactively launching new lines to meet consumer demand for ethical and sustainable products. The report by social media analytics and influencer marketing agency Preen.Me analyses how the consumer’s voice on social media has the power to drive real change in the beauty industry. According to Preen.Me, a “clean” product is defined as one with ingredients that are demonstrably safe for human use. The report, The Clean Side Of Mica: A White Paper On Sustainability In Beauty and Responsible Ingredient Sourcing, analysed 1.8 million Instagram posts and 654 Instagram hashtags between October 2018 and March 2019, along with industry sources, consumer surveys, and influencer focus groups to measure the consumer hunger for change. According to the report, the clean beauty conversation shows a 62% growth rate and a 24% retention rate over the examined six-month period. These statistics overshadow the popular animal-free, ecofriendly,and natural and organic conversations; animal-free grew only 9% while retaining only 12% of consumers over the same time period. The research showed that most consumers (94%) make their clean beauty choice by reading product labels to check ingredients. The report looks at the sustainable beauty conversation, focusing on Mica, using the ingredient as an example of responsible sourcing within the clean movement by analysing “clean” Mica that is ethically sourced and fully transparent. It highlights key activities in the clean beauty space including effect pigment producer, Colors & Effects, a brand of BASF; Beautycounter, a pioneering clean beauty brand, and Ronald Britton, creators of the ® world’s first plastic free glitter, Bioglitter .
15
SNAPSHOT!....................................................................................................................................................................................................................
NSI Hair, Nail & Beauty appoint new manager NSI Hair, Nail and Beauty has welcomed Sandra Masterson to the team as Manager.
With over 20 years’ experience in the beauty industry, from working as a therapist to owning and running her own business, Sandra has experienced the beauty business first hand. She aims to help NSI customers get the products, treatments and training that will help successfully drive their business into 2020. Based in Swords, Co. Dublin, NSI Hair, Nail and Beauty offer a wide variety of professional beauty and hair products and training from leading brands including NSI, EzFlow, Ardell, Elite Brow, Kalentin amongst others.
Phorest host 6th annual Salon Owners Summit
In excess of 500 hair and beauty salon owners from across the world attended this year’s Phorest Salon Owners Summit, held in Dublin recently. The Summit, the sixth annual event, offered an educational platform for hair and beauty business owners, aiming to provide them with the tools and insights for their businesses to reach their potential. The theme for the 2020 event was ‘Create a 2020 Vision for your Salon’. During the two-day event, delegates enjoyed a line-up of ten guest speakers, sharing their knowledge and experience of the beauty and hair industries. In addition, organiser Phorest held the Inside Phorest - The Future of Technology for the Salon Industry event, looking at all things tech and sharing the latest developments of the Phorest cloud-based salon software. Phorest will host its seventh annual Salon Owners Summit in 2021.
New clinic fuses Irish skincare with K-Beauty
Akrona Aesthetics, a new skin clinic, has opened in Dublin’s Fitzwilliam Street Upper. Akrona offers non-invasive treatments fusing Irish skincare and Korean technology including mesotherapy with LED light, heated Lava Stone massage, Ayurvedic herbal body scrub with Marma Therapy and Megawhite Teeth Whitening. The clinic aims to offer cutting-edge solutions for anti-ageing, wrinkles, acne and many other facial aesthetic treatments all underneath the banner of holistic remedies. Photo by Sam Boal of Photocall Ireland.
16
Beauty: New Products.............................................................................................................................................................
Ultralight laser offers 30 different treatment options
Part of Quanta System’s Q-Plus Evo range, the Ultralight is the only Nd:YAG laser system available on the market with 1064 + 532 nm technologies, both Q-Switched and long pulsed. This laser platform houses an incredible 30 applications, making it the go-to system for clinics looking to offer a comprehensive menu of skin treatments. The system’s IPL 1064 SP treats Acne Vulgaris, Couperose skin, active Rosacea and Ephelides, whilst 1064 LP technology is effective for hair removal on all skin types. The platform’s 2940 QS Fractional technology treats atrophic Acne scars on all skin types, Ice Pick scars, surgical trauma scars, Fibroma, Keloids, and Seborrhoea Keratosis.
Tinted Body Lotion formulated for paler skins
Alabaster have launched a new body make-up for those with a naturally paler skin tone who aren’t fans of fake tans. Alabaster Tinted Body Lotion is available in two multi-tasking shades providing light-medium coverage of bruises, scars and spots. With buildable coverage so you can hide as much of your natural colour as you like, the lotion stays put with a light dusting of translucent powder. “Bouncing lots of light off pale skin is a key cosmetic need, as it visually slims pale skin. Also, because there’s little melanin to cover flaws, pale skin can be more transparent and show veins and flaws more easily. So, creating opacity is another way to create the ideal pale skin,” say the brand. The lotion is glitter and shimmer free, but has a high gloss non-oily effect to offer a three-dimensional shine. Kind to skin, ingredients include hyaluronate, rich emollients and botanical extracts used in Chinese Medicine. The Alabaster brand has been established by Dr Esther Coats who has spent years developing expertise in the pigmentation, optics and dermatological needs of pale skin. Alabaster: www.alabasterskin.com
Benefits of bee propolis & honey prevent premature ageing Apivita have introduced Radiant Serum to their Bee Radiant collection of skincare. The Bee Radiant line is formulated with Greek Wild Rose Hip infusion, with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and moisturising abilities, along with Orange stem cells to increase collagen and elastin production. In addition, patented Propolis extract offers additional antioxidant properties, and Shea Butter, Honey and Hyaluronic acid hydrate the skin. The new serum reduces the appearance of wrinkles and prevents them forming, protecting skin against environmental aggressors to prevent premature ageing. Apivita: www.cosmeticsonline.ie
22
QS 1064 532 OP is effective for the treatment of Café au Lait spots, Cutaneous Lesions, Dysvhromia, Solar Lentigo, Naves Spillus, and Vascular Venus Lake. Telangiectasias, Spider Nevi, Reticular Veins, and Cherry Angioma are treated by the Ultralight’s 1064 LP Burst Pulse technology, whilst 2940 Full Spot treats warts, skin tags, verruca, ablation of soft tissue, Striae, and stretch marks. QS Fractional laser delivers Collagen Induction on skin up to Fitzpatrick Scale VI, as well as skin texture improvement and pore minimising. For tattoo removal, QS 1064 532 technology is effective on black, red, orange, purple, pink and violet pigments. Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 / www.advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk
.............................................................................................................................................................Beauty: New Products
Dermalogica reveal Biolumin-C Eye Serum
Dermalogica have launched Biolumin-C Eye Serum to gently exfoliate, brighten and firm skin on the delicate eye area. Applied under the eye and along the orbital bone morning and evening, the serum tackles the signs of ageing caused by smiling, frowning and looking at screens. Formulated with Vitamin C Complex to fight oxidative stress as well as brighten and firm, Dermalogica’s Biolumin-C Eye Serum also features Arjun Tree Extract, rich in polyphenols, to boost skin’s resilience and Micro-Algae extract to energise, smooth and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, Tremella Mushroom locks in moisture and supports skin resistance, antioxidant-rich Salvia Hispanica (Chia Seed)Oil moisturises, and Poria Mushroom reveals skin’s natural luminosity. Dermalogica: weare.dermalogica.co.uk
Skin firming & toning during & after pregnancy
Mustela has launched its Bust Firming Serum, specially formulated for the décolletage area of the bust, neck and neckline of new and expectant mothers. The serum supports for a firmer, more toned skin with a unique combination of Avocado peptides which reinforces skin elasticity; Centella asiatica which tones the skin for an intense firming effect; and ® Elastoregulator , a natural ingredient which tones the skin and increases elasticity to improve resistance to variations in breast volume. Mustela: www.mustela.com
Treat Mum with BeautyPro’s Sheet Mask gift sets
Ahead of Mother’s Day, BeautyPro have introduced the Restore & Renew and Hand & Foot Renewal sets. BeautyPro’s Restore & Renew Set features a selection of products for an indulgent at-home facial treatment, to purify skin and boost the complexion, including a Rejuvenating Sheet Mask, a Nourishing Sheet Mask, a Detoxifying Mask, Eye Therapy Masks, and a Black Diamond Peel-off Mask. The Hand & Foot Renewal Set (pictured) offers an invigorating foot peel with nourishing gloves and booties to moisturise hands and feet. The set includes a Foot Therapy Mask, a Hand Therapy Mask, and a Foot & Callus Peel Mask. Flair: 1890 564 040 / www.flair.ie
23
Beauty: New Products.............................................................................................................................................................
Noon Skincare offers exclusive DermShield™ care during peels
NOON Aesthetics paraceutical skincare line offers an extensive range of professional peels featuring high concentrations of active ingredients yet without the irritation, redness or discomfort often associated with such treatments. This is thanks to the brand’s exclusive DermShield™ technology, which selectively suppresses burning, tingling and itching sensations, as well as erythema and oedema (swelling) of the skin, side effects normally associated with the application of acids used in chemical peels. DermShield™ technology works by supressing neurogenic inflammation, caused when a chemical peel is applied to the skin. A type C nociceptor in the skin detects the skin’s pH level, similar to nerves that detect pain. When a chemical peel is applied to the skin, a signal is sent to the type C nociceptor, the mast cells, the spine and brain. As the signal passes through blood vessels, they expand causing redness. The higher the concentration of peel applied to the skin, the more the vessels expand and swelling occurs, whilst Mast cells release histamine, the result being neurogenic inflammation. By blocking neurogenic inflammation, NOON Aesthetics DermShield™ technology prevents any tingling, burning, itching, redness and swelling, making treatments more accessible and pleasant for your clients. NOON Aesthetics products are suitable for treating ageing, sun damage, hyperpigmentation, acne and other skin concerns. NOON Skincare Educator, Katey McTavish, says: “NOON Aesthetics will give you the tools to deliver some astounding and life changing results through unique delivery and formulations of chemical peeling and homecare so you can have confidence in your treatments and reap the benefits of this amazing line. “We are excited to be at Irish Beauty with these outstanding products and have upcoming workshops throughout in 2020 to showcase what NOON Aesthetics has to offer you and your patients.” Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 / www.advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk
Boost daily skincare with retinol oil HoF Retinol Anti-Aging Facial Oil multiplies the effectiveness of any skincare regimen and improves the way the skin appears, day and night. Offering ultra-light all day hydration, just apply two to three drops before any of your Retinol treatments, or recommend clients blend with their daily moisturiser or foundation for a visible radiance. Hennessy Hair & Beauty Supplies: 021 434 3436 / www.hennessyhb.ie
24
Lift & brighten the delicate eye area
Éminence Organic Skincare have introduced Marine Flower Peptide Eye Cream, formulated to reduce the signs of ageing around the delicate eye area. A versatile cream, it offers long-lasting hydration which helps to improve the skin’s appearance; results show that collagen density in skin is doubled to lift and fill wrinkles, whilst dark circles and puffiness are minimised as the eye area is revitalised. Key ingredients include Smart Collagen+ Complex, formulated from Algae extract, botanical collagen and Bulbine Leaf juice, delivering antioxidants to the skin and inhibiting collagen breakdown. Botanical peptides from Rice protein help increase ATP synthesis and metabolism for healthy skin cell turnover, whilst Red Algae extract protects against photo-ageing. Botanical Hyaluronic acid from Beetroot smooths and plumps skin and helps to maintain long-lasting hydration. Éminence Ireland: 01 677 7962 / www.eminence.ie
.............................................................................................................................................................Beauty: New Products
ishga launches ‘Mum to be Massage’ Hydrate & nourish skin with new Hydra Perfection collection
Dibi Milano has launched its new Hydra Perfection range of facial skincare, designed to hydrate with nutrients to nourish skin in any climatic condition, tackling issues of dehydration and leaving a radiant complexion. Andrea O’Donnell, National Educator - Beauty Division at Xpert Professional, outlines the new range: “The Dibi Milano Hydra Perfection range comprises: Extreme Hydra Gel, Extreme Hydration Cream, Extreme Hydration Concentrate and Extreme eye contour Hydration Kit.
A new pregnancy massage treatment has been launched by organic seaweed skincare brand, ishga. The ‘Mum to be Massage’ incorporates a luxurious, relaxing full body massage with nurturing, healing organic oils. The treatment aims to soothe aches and pains and general muscle fatigue often experienced during pregnancy, as well as easing leg cramps and reducing water retention and puffiness in addition to being relaxing and calming whilst promoting sleep. The ‘Mum to be Massage’ focuses on the back, hips, thighs and calves, and uses ishga’s Nurturing Oil featuring Jojoba, Thistle, Almond and Rose Geranium oil to hydrate the skin and improve elasticity, reducing stretch marks. The 60-minute massage is suitable after the first trimester of pregnancy, and uses gentle but long, slower therapeutic strokes with medium pressured. ishga: https://uk.ishga.com/
“All of the products contain some Hyaluronic Acid - which is a naturally-occurring substance in the skin that is renowned for its remarkable capacity to attract and hold onto 1000x its weight in moisture enabling it to plump, hydrate and improve superficial wrinkles. And, in fact, all the Dibi Milano ranges contain large molecules of Hyaluronic Acid along with youth peptides to continue to hydrate and protect the skin from external aggression as part of our anti-aging method. The Extreme Hydration Concentrate contains the highest content of Hyaluronic Acid than any other Dibi Milano product. It has large and small molecules of Hyaluronic Acid to prevent dehydration and treat dehydration. It also uses a complex of active ingredients to stimulate your natural Hyaluronic Acid within the skin.” Xpert Professional: 086 418 3514 / www.dibimilano.ie
25
Beauty: New Products.............................................................................................................................................................
Soothing yet effective Aloe Vera wax beads launch Waxing specialists Rica have introduced Aloe Vera Hard Wax Beads.
This no strip wax is suitable for use on all hair types, and offers nutritive and protective actions on skin. It is formulated with Aloe Vera extract, renowned for its nourishing, calming and soothing action on skin.
Lipofirm MED+ complete face & body platform launches
To complement the wax, Rica have also introduced an Aloe Vera After Wax Lotion. In addition to Aloe Vera extract, the lotion includes Sweet Almond oil to soothe skin, Jojoba oil to replenish skin with proteins and nutrients, Vitamin E to protect the surface of the skin, and UV filters to protect sensitive skin from harmful rays. Hennessy Hair & Beauty Supplies: 021 434 3436 / www.hennessyhb.ie
The Lipofirm MED+ is a complete face and body platform with the power of synergized technologies for personalised treatment plans. The system is effective for the treatment of inch loss, body contouring, cellulite reduction, face and body skin tightening, dermal volumizing, reducing pigmentation, and skin resurfacing. Technologies harnessed within the Lipofirm MED+ include Trilipo, ® TriPollar with DMA™, TriFractional™ Radio Frequency (RF), and Voluderm. TriPollar® triggers the regeneration of collagen and elastin fibres by delivering focussed RF energy inducing controlled heating of the deep dermis. DMA™ - or Dynamic Muscle Activation - delivers noninvasive stimulation of the superficial musculoaponeurotic system (SMAS) for toning and lifting creating a ‘face lift’ effect. TriFractional™ RF resurfaces and renews the skin though the wound healing process, resulting in an improvement in skin texture. Voluderm activates the body’s natural healing process by applying RF assisted thermal ultra-thin electrode ablation followed by galvanic current generating a non-thermal effect to create controlled micro wounds in the skin encouraging the generation of new and healthy skin. Treatments using the Lipofirm MED+ deliver visible immediate and long-term results with minimal discomfort and no downtime. Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 / www.advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk
26
Ampoules stimulate skin’s collagen & fibroblast activity HoF’s Collagen Pyruvate ampoules have been created to stimulate collagen synthesis and fibroblast activity within the skin, for use within professional anti-ageing treatments.
Available in a set of 10 x 2ml ampoules, the formulation improves the elasticity of and hydration levels within the skin. What’s more, it accelerates lipolysis, making it an effective ingredient in anti-cellulite cocktails, and is also of benefit in stretch mark, hair loss and flaccidity treatments. Hennessy Hair & Beauty Supplies: 021 434 3436 / www.hennessyhb.ie
.............................................................................................................................................................Beauty: New Products
Boost skin hydration with Hyaluronic acid serum Novexpert have introduced Booster Serum with Hyaluronic Acid, created for daily use to plump and smooth skin without the need for injectable treatments.
Suitable for all skin types but especially those experiencing dehydration, and for year round use, the serum is formulated from four different sizes of 100% pure and natural Hyaluronic acid, which penetrate all surfaces of the skin for intense moisturisation. According to Novexpert, a single bottle of serum contains the equivalent of 20 Hyaluronic acid injections.
Streak-free tanning is Elite
Elite Tan is a superior spray tan that is moisture-enriched with Propylene Glycol. Classed as a humectant, Propylene Glycol draws water from the atmosphere to the skin’s surface, as well as enhances the delivery of actives. Along with Aloe Vera extract, the tan’s formulation features Erythulose (0.5%) and a DHA synergistic tanning system which aids against streaking, ensuring it delivers an instant bronzed glow, long-lasting colour, and skin-friendly moisturisation. Elite Tan is available in 7% and 10% DHA. NSI Hair Nail and Beauty: 01 840 9124 / www.nailandbeauty.ie
In addition to intensely dehydrated skin, the serum is also effective on before/after lipofilling, on tired skin, stressed or sagging skin, for scar healing, and on oily skin looking for an “oil-free” anti-ageing product. The serum can be applied alone or under a regular moisturising cream, using two to six drops moisturised into the face in the morning and /or evening. Novexpert: www.cosmeticsonline.ie
New Biosmetics Lash Tint Display launches
Exclusive to Hennessy’s, Biosmetics Tint & Lash System have introduced a Professional Tint Display. The Biosmetics Tint and Lash Lift System is gentle on eyelashes, and can be combined with the brand’s eyelash perm. Available in nine shades, the tint will last up to eight weeks. The new display includes nine Biosmetics 20ml Tints, a Biosmetics Tint Remover, Eye Make-up Remover Foam, Relaxing Eye Cream, Cream Developer 3%, Protecting Papers, two Tint Brushes, and two Tinting Dishes. Hennessy Hair & Beauty Supplies: 021 434 3436 / www.hennessyhb.ie
27
Beauty: Brow Treatments........................................................................................................................................................
Image courtesy of RefectoCil / Salon System 30
....................................................................................................................................................... Beauty: Brow Treatments
Lamination, bespoke colouring and fluffy finishes are set to be big in brows for 2020.
B
row treatments have been big business over the last decade, with myriad professional treatments and products developed to shape and tame unruly hairs, thicken sparse brows, and help clients achieve eyebrows that frame the fame. As we enter a new decade, the thirst for beautiful brows shows no signing of stopping, with Brow Lamination just one of the latest bespoke salon treatments to hit the market. “Brow treatments are more popular than ever before - everyone wants their brows to look on point all the time,” says Natalie Piper, Business Development Manager at The Eyelash Design Company who developed the Hi Brow Lamination treatment. “Brows shape the face and accentuate features; this is why clients are looking for treatments to perfect their brows - and so they don’t have to worry about styling them into place every day. The need to streamline time spent on everyday beauty routines has pushed the development of new treatments with low maintenance results.” “The continued boom in lash and brow treatments has meant there has never been a better or more important time for salons to have a full treatment repertoire,” advise Hive of Beauty. “Indeed, according to Google’s ‘Year in Search’, Brow Lamination was one of the top ten beauty searches in 2019, with popularity of brow lamination and lash lift treatments showing no sign of slowing down in 2020.” “Every make-up consultation should include tips on how to achieve a great brow – it helps to frame the eyes and complete the look,” says Caron Lee, Brow by Mii expert. “Clients are becoming extremely passionate about brows and are keen to seek a skilled therapist to give them the results they require. If a client loves their results they’re more likely to be loyal to your salon, allowing you to entice them to try other services.”
2020 brow trends Lisa Stone, Brow Expert and Salon System Educator, believes bold brows will still be popular this year, but agrees that ‘perfect’ brows will be redefined. “Today’s current trend is big, bold, strong brows, this style has dominated 2019 and we will see it continue into 2020, but there will be a slight softening to the big, bold strong brow with a little more ‘texture’ and ‘fluffy’ less block look and more ‘natural’, enhancing colour to correct and disguise,” she says.
“On the 2020 spring catwalks we spotted natural brows with soft 3D definition, described as the ‘shadow-effect brow’. While the ‘dewy brow’ also stood out on the runways, a wet-look glossy brow that calls for wax-finish formulas and generous layers of clear brow gel,” adds Caron. One of the new treatments for creating softer, fluffier yet fuller brows is of course Brow Lamination. “Brow Lamination is currently the most requested beauty treatment,” explains Natalie. “The service realigns brow hairs into shape, adding fullness and definition. This only takes around 45 - 60 minutes and is the perfect treatment for someone who has non-uniform brow arches or lack of brow shape. “It’s all about a fluffy and full brow look, although some clients opt for a smart and well-groomed natural version of this look. This is one of the reasons why Brow Lamination is proving so popular with this treatment, brows can be brushed up to be more bold, or brushed in a more natural style.” Demand for bespoke coloured brows is also coming to the fore, Lisa predicts. “Bold, strong brows will continue to dominate the industry whether that’s intense vivid colour, harmonising hair and brow colour together, or creating bold fashion statements or a blonde brow increasingly growing in popularity and prominent on the catwalks,” she says Ruth Atkins, Lash Expert and Salon System Educator, agrees: “For 2020 therapists are really going to be taking brow colouring to the next level by introducing an average of three tint colours together, to create a bespoke colour customisation service for their clients. By analysing the natural cool and warm tones of their clients, their hair colour, eyes and skin tone, the therapist can undertake the browista technique by RefectoCil by becoming a creative colourist for the brows.” “Brow treatments have always been a popular treatment and brow services are worth millions in our industry and are continually growing,” concludes Lisa. “These treatments and trends take your services to another level offering basic to advanced services… allowing you to be at the top of your game and have strong competition on the high street....Keeping up to date with the trends will stop you from falling behind and losing clients.”
31
Beauty: Brow treatments......................................................................................................................................................... With RefectoCil’s Custom Colour Blending technique, nine unique brow looks can be created, whether that be natural or more creative. To complement the kit, Salon System’s RefectoCil Browista Creative Colour Workshop ensures correct colour choices to suit clients’ natural colouring and features, along with blending, application and aftercare. Salon System: www.salonsystem.com
Lash eXtend BLX Lamination Brow Fix defines and volumizes brows, creating a natural, bushy look or a more defined look similar to microblading. Hairs are treated with a permanent fluid which changes the structure of the hair, to fix them in place using various techniques. BLX Lamination Brow Fix by Lash eXtend is ideal for those with stiff and untreatable or asymmetrically growing brows. Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie
Kalentin’s Brow Lamination treatment creates a fluffy yet groomed brow look inspired by the Russian catwalk. The treatment enables you to correct the symmetry of brow hair, fixing it in correct direction of growth. During the treatment, brow hairs are nourished with active ingredients of vegetable keratin, Chamomile, Hyaluronic acid and panthenol within Kalentin’s brow lamination solution, generating softer, shinier and healthier eyebrows. NSI Hair Nail and Beauty: 01 840 9124 / www.nailandbeauty.ie
Mii Cosmetics’ Brow by Mii professional service blends an extensive range of tint colours to best match a client’s skin tone and hair colour, using staged tinting techniques to create more volume or even out the colour of brows. In addition, their retail range offers a wide shade range to enhance natural brow colour; for example, the new Signature Brow Styler offers six shades including Auburn, ideal for redheads. Gerrard International: www.gerrardinternational.com
32
........................................................................................................................................................ Beauty: Brow treatments
Hi Brow Lamination realigns brow hairs into shape, staying in place for up to eight weeks, adding fullness and definition. During the treatment, brow hairs are secured into position using a style fixing product which straightens curved hairs and ensures symmetry, and stray hairs tidied. The treatment can be completed with an optional brow tint. Baam Cosmetics: www.lashperfect.ie
For clients who have experienced disappointing Semi Permanent Makeup (SPMU) results on eyebrows, the Q Plus C laser platform offers successful removal. It utilises Ruby 694nm, Nd: YAG 532 and Nd: YAG 1064 laser wavelengths and multilayer techniques to remove 100% of each colour pigment present in the skin. Successful removal is achieved in four to six sessions, with skin treated gently, enabling cover up or further Semi Permanent Makeup application as soon as three months post laser removal. The Q Plus C can also be used to rectify scarring from previous microblading treatments. Advanced Esthetics Solutions: +44 (0) 29 2023 1228 / www.advancedestheticssolutions
HD Brows’ BrowSculpt treatment tailors brow lamination techniques with a HD Brows twist, taming unruly brows for up to six weeks. The treatment includes Brow Lamination, which corrects brow shape setting hairs in place, followed by Bespoke Brow Tinting using Brow Dyes to mix a custom colour. The shape of the brows is then creating using a combination of waxing, threading and tweezing, and the treatment is concluded by adding a hair stroke or two. The Beauty School: +44 (0) 2841 753 900 / www.hdbrows.ie
33
Nails: Latest News...................................................................................................................................................................
Viva Mexico, say OPI this spring
Celebrate the thriving art scene of Ciudad de Mexico (CDMX) with the new Mexico City Collection by OPI. Drawing inspiration from the vibrant art and fashion scenes of Mexico City, 12 rich colours encapsulate the palettes of hues the artists of Ciudad de Mexico are renowned for. Commenting on the launch, OPI Global Director of Color Collections Jill Bartoshevic, says: “With this collection, we looked to Mexico City’s trendsetting street style, blending of old heritage and new urban feel, and passion and enthusiasm for art and design. The end result is a fresh spring palette with colours for everyone including soft pastels, energetic brights, and vivid floral tones. Telenovela Me About It - a perfect bright pink-purple that we’ve seen reflected on the spring runways - is sure to be a favourite of the season.” All colours are available in OPI Nail Lacquer, Infinite Shine and GelColor formulas, selected colours are also available in OPI Powder Perfection dipping powders. Hennessy Hair & Beauty: 021 434 3436 / www.hennessyhb.ie
English floral inspiration for CND’s spring nails
CND™ have released their spring 2020 colour collection, English Garden, available in CND™ Shellac™ and Vinylux™ Weekly Polish. The collection of six colours incorporate feminine neutrals and cool pastels, inspired by fresh spring flowers. Shades include dark neutral Flowerbed Folly, creamy pink Soft Peony; semisheer white Lady Lilly, bubble gum pink Kiss from a Rose, cooltoned pink Carnation Bliss, and pastel mint green Topiary. Commenting on the launch of English Garden, CND™ Co-Founder and Style Director, Jan Arnold, says: “CND™ English Garden collection feels like the start of spring in a bottle. It’s a whimsical selection of pastels made for the season, transporting you to a gorgeous garden getaway.” Sweet Squared: 01 408 9191 / www.sweetsquared.com
Individual pedi products for economy & hygiene Love performing pedicures but fed up of wasting product? Voesh Individual Spa Pedicure Collection features individually packaged products with just the right amounts for a single pedicure, preventing unnecessary waste.
The four-step treatment of Sea Salt Soak, Sugar Scrub, Mud Masque and Massage Cream, is available in nine sensations for clients to choose from, depending on their mood. Products are enriched with nutritious ingredients to revive and care for feet. The individual packaging also means that treatments are hygienic, with no spatulas or dipping required. NSI Hair Nail and Beauty: 01 840 9124 / www.nailandbeauty.ie
36
.................................................................................................................................................................. Nails: Latest News
React prep & finish formulation in one
Following the success of their React base and topcoat products, Morgan Taylor has launched React Breathable 3-in-1, a base, treatment and topcoat in one product. The React Breathable formulation, which includes vitamins C, B5 and E, cares for nails, creating polymer gaps that allow air to pass through nail lacquer and which continue through when it’s also used as a topcoat. The prep and finish formulation works with any nail lacquer system, and does not require soaking to remove. Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie
Dip into Gelish’s Editor’s Picks collection
Did you know that Gelish’s new Editor’s Picks spring colour collection is available in Gelish Dip Powder, as well as Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish and Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer? Gelish Dip Acrylic powder enables you to achieve vivid colour finishes, easier and faster than applying traditional liquid and powder acrylic. New Editor’s Picks spring colours in Gelish Dip Powder include Barely Buff, a palest pink crème; I Speak Chic, a taupe nude crème; Call My Blush, a soft sheer pink; On Cloud Mine, a sheer peachy pink; Going Vogue, an antique rose crème, and It’s Your Mauve, a mauve crème. Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie
TruMatch set to launch nearly 100 new shades!
Ezflow has launched its TruMatch collection including matching TruDIP acrylic dip powder, TruGEL gel polish and TruLAQ long lasting polish. Available in 48 shades at present, 2020 will see another 98 shades added to this collection. Odour-free TruDip allows you to provide a stronger colour option for weaker nails without having to apply sculptured nail enhancements. TruGel gel polish 15ml bottle gives you up to 20 sets of nails, whilst TruLAQ is a richly pigmented lacquer that lasts twice as long as a regular polish. Products can be purchased individually, whilst TruGEL and TruLAQ are also sold as a Duo, encouraging retail opportunities. NSI Hair Nail and Beauty: 01 840 9124 / www.nailandbeauty.ie 37
Build me up
Nails: Builder Gels..................................................................................................................................................................
Today’s choice of builder gels offer strength, elegance and faster enhancement options for sculpting and camouflage. With today’s nail gel products enabling you to create strong, elegant enhancements with the strength of acrylic but without the complexity of liquid and powder, many nail techs are switching to builder gel systems for easier, faster application times and predictable results.
Gelish Structure Gel improves the look of distressed, damaged, uneven or troubled nail plates. It can be worn alone or as a base coat. Its thicker viscosity enhances the strength of the natural nail, increasing durability. Structure Gel is also ideal for filling in ridges and hiding demarcations. Available in Clear, Translucent Pink and Cover Pink, the gel is applied from a bottle and can be easily soaked off. Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie
NSI Balance Builder in a Bottle is a hard gel system in a bottle, delivering the strength of the traditional NSI Balance Gel System. Curable under LED and UV lights, this gel can be used to extend the nail and for natural nail overlays. With a medium to thick viscosity, use the gel for easy building of the nail, creating a slight apex, or to add durability to nails. NSI Balance Builder in a Bottle is available in Blush and Clear. NSI Hair Nail and Beauty: 01 840 9124 / www.nailandbeauty.ie
Bio Sculpture’s Hard Gel (formerly S-Gel) delivers the strength of acrylic but the weightlessness and elegance of gel. Used as the strengthening / finishing layer on hard nails without flexibility, this gel can be used to lengthen nails to create long, strong extensions with a transparent free edge. Bio Sculpture Hard Gel is self-levelling for ease of application, and can be used to build a solid upper arch that shapes easily. Bio Sculpture Ireland: 01 850 0005 / www.biosculpture.ie 38
.................................................................................................................................................................Nails: Builder Gels
OPI Axxium Gel System, with its brush-on application, offers workability and ease of application, delivering predictable results. The range includes OPI Axxium Sculpting Gel in Clear, Soft White, Soft Pink and Opaque Pink, and has a no-chase viscosity for faster sculpting of strong, yet flexible and lightweight enhancements. OPI Axxium Sculpting Gel has superior adhesion for long-lasting results, and the range of colours enables you to create natural-looking pink and whites. Hennessy Hair & Beauty: 021 434 3436 / www.hennessyhb.ie The GelBottle Inc™ Builder In A Bottle™ offer in excess of 15 different builder gel shades in bottle formulations. These soak-off builder gels, which can also be infilled, create strong overlays, and strengthen natural nails. Product does not chip or lift, and nails can be left nude or a coloured gel overlaid. Curable under UV and LED lamps, a non-wipe GelBottle topcoat is also available. The GelBottle Inc: 086 227 1698 / www.thegelbottle.ie
Magpie’s Build Me Up is a super-strong yet lightweight Builder Gel, that is the stronger sister of the brand’s Give Me Strength Soak Off Structure Gel. It enables you to create flexible enhancements and overlays, in five shades: Clear, Naked, Cloud, Blush and Buff. A baseless gel, so there’s no need to apply a base coat, it can be used to extend nails with forms or tips. On application, the gel is selflevelling, and cures in 60 seconds under an LED lamp. Once cured, enhancements are chip and lift resistant. The formulation is also free of common allergen, HEMA (2 hydroxy ethylmethacrylate). NSI Hair Nail and Beauty: 01 840 9124 / www.nailandbeauty.ie
IBD Builder Gel enables you to create nails with the strength of acrylic but with the clear look of gels. Wearing naturally on nails, this gel is ideal for tip overlays as well as sculpting. Odour-free, once cured in just three minutes (with a cool cure formula), finished nails have a permanent high gloss shine IBD Builder Gel is available in Clear, Pink, White and Ultra White. Flair Hair & Beauty: www.flair.ie
39
Candice Gardner Writes: Year-round UV protection..................................................................................................................
Dermalogica’s Candice Gardner on why SPF isn’t just for summer.
Promoting year-round UV protection A
s we slowly approach spring, the topic of SPF and UV protection will start to come up more frequently in our clinics and skin centres. Whether your customers are trying to escape grey skies and cold weather, make a last quick dash down the slopes whilst there is still snow, or plan for their annual summer vacation, this conversation should not simply revolve around their intermittent exposure, but rather that daylight defence is part of everyday good skin care. Some would argue that sunscreens on a daily basis are simply not relevant to the Irish climate, except at points during the summer or when travelling abroad. Whilst intensity of the UV rays penetrating to the earth’s surface will vary with time of year and your geographic location, it is important to remember that there will always be some level UV radiation.
The UV Index The World Health Organisation developed the UV Index to help provide the public with information about the intensity of the sun, relevant to where they live, so that they can take adequate precautions when exposed to reduce skin cancer risk. Since Ireland has a generally low UV Index value of approximately 1-3 during the winter months, where risk of burning is unlikely in most skins, customers may believe UV protection is simply not necessary. Whilst burning increases skin cancer risk significantly, we now understand that skin damage and skin cancer are not only reliant on burning. Years of accumulative effect interjected with short bursts of extreme intermittent exposure during summer and summer holidays results in premature skin ageing and some surprisingly high skin cancer statistics despite the climate. Around 5% of UV rays are high intensity UVB rays, responsible for burning skin and are the main consideration in the UV Index. They may be less prevalent dependant on the time of year and level of cloud cover, which means most skins are unlikely to burn at these times. The other 95%, the UVA rays, have a longer wavelength allowing them to penetrate deeper into the skin. Prolonged UVA exposure can lead to hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and skin cancer, even though there is no burning. The cumulative effect of UVA damage is what makes it imperative for clients to wear sunscreen daily. Candice Gardner is Education Manager – Digital and Content at The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica (www.dermalogica.ie).
40
..................................................................................................................Candice Gardner Writes: Year-round UV protection
“Prolonged UVA exposure can lead to hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and skin cancer, even though there is no burning”.
HEV or blue light What about high energy visible light (HEV) or blue light? Whilst we have always experienced exposure from daylight, the increased use of computers and smart devices has increased the concerns around free radical damage and potential for health concerns in the future. High energy visible light is the part of the light spectrum that sits right next to UV. The energy produced is lower than that of UVA but can still cause some generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Early studies suggest that too much blue light may contribute to collagen degradation, darken hyperpigmentation, especially in deeper skin tones, as well as trigger inflammation. On the other end of the debate, there is a lot of good research on the benefits of blue light for treatment of breakouts and wound healing. Research is still emerging in this area and we do not yet have sufficient data collected over time to define accurately the level of exposure required to cause a specific degree of damage. However, since blue light borders UVA in the electromagnetic spectrum, some sunscreen filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can also shield from blue light at the same time as providing UV protection. With this in mind, what advice should we provide?
Selecting an SPF relative to your needs Since prevention is better than cure, including sunscreen as part of your daily regimen will reduce unwanted skin changes. Protection from skin cancers and premature ageing requires both UVA and UVB shielding. Whilst SPF (Sun Protection Factor) provides a measure of protection from UVB and burning, always recommend a broad-spectrum sunscreen that has the designated symbol (UVA in a circle) on the packaging to ensure your product is protecting you from both. UVA screening is far more relevant in the context of daily and indoor use. No sunscreen can shield 100% of UV so select SPF relative to your needs. Here is the relative level of protection based on SPF: • SPF15 – 93.3% protection
If the product has the UVA symbol then the level of UVA protection will be directly proportionate to the SPF. Note that there is only around one percent difference in protection between SPF30 and SPF50. Labelling regulations prevent a sunscreen claiming more than SPF50+ as the incremental protection is negligible and potentially misleading. Based on skin condition and preference you can select from chemical or physical sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens use chemical compounds such as octocrylene or octinoxate to absorb UV radiation and convert it to heat. This chemical reaction is innocuous but the increase in heat in the skin is the reason some skins find chemical sunscreens uncomfortable. The advantage is that they are invisible on all skins, and water resistant, making them suitable in lots of situations. Physical sunscreens work like a mirror to reflect and scatter damaging UV rays away from the skin. The mineral particles of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide provide the physical shield and are generally the preferred choice for sensitised skins and babies. Since these particles don’t absorb into the skin they can rub off, sweat off or rinse off easily. Traditionally, they have also been incredibly thick, chalky formulas that left an annoying and obvious white residue. Thankfully, there are better options now available. If you are expecting an extended or high level of exposure, select a sunscreen and apply generously 30 minutes prior to exposure. Reapply every two hours. For everyday layer over your regular moisturiser in the morning or select a multitasking moisturiser with built in SPF. A single daily application is sufficient for a day in the office with short bouts of exposure on the commute or at lunch. Skin care professionals know that sunscreen is not just for summer, and with the right education, our customers can make this part of their year round regimen.
• SPF30 – 96.6% protection • SPF50 – 97.7% protection
41
Education: News.....................................................................................................................................................................
WHAT’S NEW? Training, upskilling or looking for a course? Get the latest news here!
Hennessy to offer White to Brown tanning training Book your ABT Student Ambassador visit
Are you a college lecturer who would like to discover how ABT membership can benefit your students, both as they train with you and also as they move into employment? If so, a visit from ABT’s Student Ambassador, Martin Widdicombe, is for you. ABT Student Membership is available to all beauty, nails, complementary therapy and hairdressing students and includes a comprehensive insurance package through Catlin Insurance (UK) Ltd which includes up to €6.5 million Professional Treatment Risks insurance, €6.5 million Public Liability insurance and €6.5 million Product Liability insurance for students’ Case Study work or for other work prior to qualification. To arrange Martin to visit your school or college and speak to your students about the benefits of ABT membership, email him at martin@abtinsurance.co.uk
Try Before You Buy with Creative Academy To celebrate Gelish, PolyGel and Gelish Dip’s success at this year’s Nail Magazine, NailPro Magazine and Launchpad RCA awards, Creative Academy are offering a new range of conversion classes in all three systems. The Try Before You Buy courses are open to Nail Technicians and/or Beauty Therapists to enable you to convert to your chosen product range. After class, students will receive a certificate and will also be able to buy any open stock they wish in Creative Academy’s store VAT-free (valid on day of training only). To attend Try Before You Buy PolyGel courses, students must already hold a qualification in either Gel or Acrylic. Creative Academy: 01 429 5122 / www.creativeacademy.ie
42
Hennessy Hair & Beauty have teamed up with tanning brand White to Brown to offer training courses for beginners and advanced tan technicians.
White to Brown offer a full range of sunless tan solutions, including White to Brown Organic (10% DHA) with ecocertified DHA and extracts of Vitamin E, Avocado Oil and organic Aloe Vera. The brand also offers White to Brown Rapid Tan, an express bronze tan that develops in just one hour for a light, sunkissed tan. Hennessy Hair & Beauty: 021 434 3436 / training@hennessyhb.ie
...........................................................................................................................................................................Beauty Talk
Emma James, Digital Marketing and Communications Executive at Flair Hair & Beauty Supplies, talks with the best in the beauty business.
Beauty Talk Michelle Regazzoli Stone is a Make Up Artist and founder of MRS Makeup, and new project, MRS Glam, launching in March.
Tell us a little bit about yourself… “I grew up on the Navan Road and went to the local schools. In second year, I moved to Mount Sackville…when I left school I started in Dun Laoghaire College and I completed a one-year course in Theatrical and Media Make-up. That was the best year of my life, I absolutely loved every second of it! “That was the first year they had ran a make-up course. Make-up was still relatively new in Ireland. MAC would have still been very new in Ireland. That summer, I went into MAC every single Saturday. I used to show them my portfolio…I plagued them; I was so focused on working for them! It paid off; I got a job with them that August. They were opening a store in Blanchardstown that year and the following year they opened in Dundrum. I was there for both of those openings which was brilliant experience… I was with MAC for 10 years! Persistence is key.”
After a fantastic experience at MAC, what gave you the push to build your own business? “When I was on my second maternity leave, I was starting to watch social media develop. I was based in one of my friend’s hair salons and I was going from two faces on a Friday and Saturday, to five to eight to ten, and people were just getting their make-up done to go out on a Saturday night. I was starting to see just how much the market was starting
to change because of social media. If you were going out with the girls on a Saturday night out you wanted to look glam, smokey eye and hair blow-dried, because now it was going to be online.”
Instagram, reaching out to them sending messages. A lot of it was free work but it paid off in the end; I never shied away from doing something for free because it always came back as a positive!”
Social Media is a massive platform in the beauty industry, how has this impacted your business?
You worked in Essex for a year, tell me about that...
“Social media was an absolute game changer, 100% the catapult for me was flying over to Ibiza to do the wedding make-up for Rosanna Davison in June 2014. I had to hire somebody a month later to look after my emails and messages because I had so many enquires. It completely changed everything for me.”
“I absolutely loved working in Essex, even though we’re so close to the UK we’re completely different in every way. Their studios are warehouses, our studios are a room. Everything was bigger, it was incredible. You’re working in bigger teams, you’re learning from everyone whether it’s the lighting people, the stylist, photographers and others; it was invaluable in my experience.
You are best known for bridal makeup, celeb clients, magazine and TV work. How did you break into that side of the industry?
“The stylist would have a lot of input in your make-up and I wasn’t used to that, but I really appreciated that they’d come in and say that the lip needs to be darker or the contour needs to be stronger.
“When I left MAC, I could see again how things were changing with the likes of social media. I went out to Cari’s Closet, into designers in town, I went to anybody that I could walk through the door and let them know who I am and hand them a business card. Even if they said to me ‘no sorry, not looking for anybody’ they still rang me back when they needed somebody. Similar to what I had done with MAC, I was persistent, I’d make sure they knew who I was. “I think with us being such a small location, it really is about trying to stand out and make sure people know who you are. I got in with VIP Magazine and again followed people on
“What I learned in the UK was to read the room. If I had of gone in and created an Instagram make-up – so cut creases, heavy eyes and too much highlighter – OK magazine would never work with me again because it’s not their style. I had to learn to still be true to my own style and what I create but also know what the shoot requires. “I’ll never forget there was one top guy I was working with for OK magazine and he said I don’t even have to Photoshop your make-up it’s incredible. I’ll never forget it! Obviously with editorial there is always slight tweaks and edits, so that was such a compliment!”
43
