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käsestrasse & bregenzerwald culinary delights region
Falzalpen cheese cellar in Egg-Schetteregg
How come a valley community in which, a century ago, Sunday dinner comprised a sort of wheat flour mash (with maize grits the rest of the week) is now a gourmet region with specialities whose origins are protected and where refined gastronomy is at home in many restaurants? The Bregenzerwald is an Austrian gourmet region. These days, the word “gourmet” is used all too frequently in advertising: however, the expression “gourmet region” has a specific meaning: it is a registered brand by the Austrian Ministry for Food and the AMA (Agrarmarkt Austria), wishing to remind consumers of regional specialities. The basic prerequisites are that the ingredients come from the region, that production is regional, and that the products are firmly rooted in regional gastronomy. In the Bregenzerwald, this means alpine cheese. Every year, approximately 3,000 tons of alpine cheese are produced in the valley’s 17 dairies. Every year, 200 tons of alpine cheese are handmade by the 70 or more dairy alps every summer. The special thing about this cheese is the silo-free
milk it is produced from, since only 3% of EU dairy farmers produce in this way, i.e. their cows never eat silo fodder – instead, between May and October, they only eat grass and herbs. During the winter, they only eat the air-dried hay from valley meadows. In the so-called three-stage farming method, following their winter in the barn, the animals graze on the mountain pastures located at medium height (around 900 m) during the spring and the autumn, and on the high mountain pasture during the summer. The mountain pastures are run as a collective, since the farmers only have an average of 12 cows in the barn. The three-stage farming method (which was included in the national UNESCO list of immaterial cultural assets in spring 2011) in particular gives the alpine cheese the special flavour which means it can easily contend with the well-known European full-fat cheeses. It has been like this for a long time: back at the start of the 19th century, the inhabitants of the Bregenzerwald sold over 30.000 kg of cheese to the monarchy and abroad. In 1877, Karl von
