Three Santa Cru, Land Lubbers Cruising With "West lvis" on the Pacific

By George \7. \flood \Uood Brothers Co. ' Santa Cruz, Calif.

(Continued lrorn the June l5th issue)

CHAPTER VI

Let's Get Acquainted

, For those of you who may not have followed our yarn from its beginning, let's pause and get our bearings. Mrs. Wood and my five-year-old daughter and I started out on this cruise from San Francisco as guests of the Charles McCormick Lumber Company. We are taking our car along and have the rare privilege of motor- ing wherever the boat stops. We steamed up the coast, disembarking at Coos Bay, where we drove to Portland; then re-embarking we went to Vancouver, British Columbia, and Puget Sound points.

Let's see, I think we were just finishing oysters when I ended my last chapter. My wife and child are on the boat at Brittania Beach, B. C., and I am at the Roosevelt Hotel in Seattle. Let me pause just a minute and tell you about this hotel. As I was entering the city I noticed a big sign, "Hotel Roosevelt, Rooms 91.50 and Up" and words something like "Service With Economy," I was agreeably surprised that the hotel lived up to its motto, It is a fine l5-story structure completed very recently. The interior is finished in modernistic style, and the bell boys are all dolled up in purple uniforms with pink lapels. When I asked for a $1.50 room, little did I expect to find the luxury and comforts that are charac' teristic of this hostelry. My room, while quite small, had many conveniences, lavatory, a big broad window overlooking the city, and, of course, steam heat, subdued lights for the desk and bed. The blankets were soft. comfortable woolens and the beds the verv finest. If you go to Seattle, you will enjoy the Hotel Roosevelt. '

Every Saturday evening I phone home. I have arranged for my calls so that it costs only $1.15 for a conversation with our Bill and Elizabeth just after midnight. (Al Marshk, you can credit my next month's bill for this ad.)

Fishing Tales

During the evening I learned that there is good fishing for Cut Throat trout. Next morning at 20 minutes to 5 I am out on the street, and before 5:30 I am initiated into the method of trolling for these 6ne fish. The boatman furnishes me with lines, tackle and worms. We use a spinner similar to the "Jack Lloyd" baited with angle worms. Two willow branches about three feet long are placed upright on either side of the row boat, to the ends of these the trolling lines are fastened. One rows just fast enough so that the ends of the twigs keep vibrating back and forth. There are hundreds of fishing craft in the bay. Big, expensive motor launches, belonging to wealthy folks of Seattle, smaller craft equip- ped with outboard motors and many, many row boats, such as mine, all trolling for the gamy Cut Throat trout. I am a greenhorn and it would be too much for me to land a trout. however, I did have a couple of bites, and just as I am pulling in for the dock I hook a nice one. Alas! I get over-anxious, pull him in too fast and the line gets tangled up in my own oars, but he comes in close enough so that I see he is a lS-inch trout. The boatman says "that was a small one." Eleven pounders are not uncommon. I hurry back to Seattle, as I must be in Port Gamble at noor.r when the West Ivis arrives, Port Gamble is the site of one of the Charles McCormick lumber mills. In arriving there I meet Mr. Gay, the manager. We talk shop, lumber, merchandising and lum- ber display; but soon the conversation turns to fishing. He has just returned from fishing in one of the streams. "Small trout, you know, only eight or nine inches long, the largest one ll inches." I gulp and hunch forward on my chair. "And did you get many?" I asked. "No, only a few. I think we have about 40. By the way, do you like to fish?" "Do I. and would I!" He offers to have me taken out right now, but I tell him I am awfully tired. You wilt remember that I went to bed at 12:30 and was up at l0 minutes to 5 for the morning fishing trip. So I tell him that I would like to lie down in a cool spot for a couple of hours while waiting for the West Ivis to come in. Our boat is delaved l0 hours and will dock at 11 p.m. He suggests that I occupy ihe company's suite in the Hotel Puget, and shows me the rooms. He casually mentions that the furniture in one of the rooms is rather unusual. "It came around the lforn, you know, in a sailing vessel in 1853. It is hand carved, antique walnut, and is rather valuable." Later, I learned that the company has refused $2500 for the three-piece bedroom set. Now, for you folks (including A. B. Herrman) who love antique furni- ture, I wish it were within my power to adequately describe these rare pieces. I carefully avoided putting even my hat on the bureau or to disturb the room in any way. I wanted my wife to see it at its best. So I occupied the other room of our suite.

It was arranged for us to go salmon fishing at 4 o'clock. It is my first experience at this sport. as I get so seasick in the Santa Cruz harbor that I have not attempted it there. I am introduced to Mr. Nickum, the champion fisherman of the McCormick personnel. He has caught 38 salmon this year, his largest weighing 34 pounds. We have a delightful three hours fishing in a beautiful bay. Mr. Hammersmith, mill superintendent, the third member of our party, hooks a big one that breaks his line. I get a bite or two, but we come back with no fish. I am not at all discouraged

S, S, "Vest lds" and arrange to come over next rnorning at 5 o'clock, take the motor boat all by myself and try my luck again.

Later that evening the West Ivis comes in. I take my wife and baby to the hotel, where she is surprised and delighted with the beautiful antique furniture. (Ask her about it.) We talk until 3 in the morning. She tells about the wonderful trip to Brittania Beach, B. C,, and I report what the kiddies said over the telephone, and about my trip down Puget Sound (oysters and all), my fishing trip and my fishing plans.

Up next morning at 10 minutes to 5. Over at Mr. Nickum's before 5:30 where I am to be shown just how to run the boat. At the water's edge we look out across at the huge rosy-red ball of fire where the sun is rising over the Washington shoreline. It is awe-inspiring and we pause a moment to admire the beauty of that sunrrse.

"Wonderful. isn't it?" I remark.

"Yes," says Mr. Nickum, "that's one of the sights that fishermen see." And then rather quietly, after waiting, "There's lots more to fishing than just catching fish."

Well, I did not catch any fish that morning, but I had a fine time. I played with that motor boat. I sang and laughed, I went fast and I went slow, I found out just how to make my spinners spin properly, and I became initiated into the great sport of salmon fishing. I brought back no salmon, but I did learn a bit of fishermen's philosophy: "There's lots more to fishing than just catching fish," and my own contribution to fishermen's lore follows: Yes, there's a fraternity among us fish61rnsnFostered by the glow of the morning sunrise;

Strengthened by contemplation of Nature's noonday splendors; Blessed by the memory of beautiful sunsets, over the woodland, by lake and stream, or on the sea.

Chapter Vii

Monday morning-back at Port Gamble-fishing laid aside. Now, if ever, is the time we must go through this huge lumber mill as by 5 o'clock tonight the West Ivis will have that million feet of lumber loaded for South America and we will then be homeward bound. Since 1853 there. has been a saw mill operating practically continuously at this port. It is strategically located for such opera- tions. In the otd days, before Seattle was a city, hundreds of sailing vessels anchored off Whiskey Spit (there's a name that brings back the old Hetl-a-roarin' days) just opposite where lumber was taken on for all parts of the world, My wife's grandfather, Captain Percival, was master of one of these lumber schooners and, without doubt, took on cargo here.

You have already met Mr. Gay, You will recall that he is the man who sent us ofi salmon fishing. I have learned that not only does he have charge of the saw mill here but is in charge of the McCormick mills at Port Ludlow (seven miles away) and at St. Helens on the Columbia River. The three saw mills can cut one million feet of lumber each and every eight-hour day.

The Port Gamble mill has two huge double cut band saws that handle any size log up to one hundred and twenty feet long. All machinery is electrically operated by power generated on the premises. Recently the plant has been completely modernized.

Goingthrough theyardslsaw huge timbers abouttwo feet square, known to the trade as Jap squares; also clear flitches for England, Ireland and Continental Europe; railroad ties and sleepers for Manchuria, and lumber of all sorts destined for Trinidad. Porto Rico and other Atlantic ports. One can not but be impressed with the quiet efficiency of the working force of this mill. The plant is not as ostentatious as some, but any lumberman observing the operation, knows right away that here are men who know how to produce lumber. I felt gratified that such facilities are available to take care of lumber requirements of Wood Bros. Co. and that any steamer in the McCormick fleet can put lumber from Port Gamble right on the Santa Cruz Municipal pier in ninety hours.

Our trip will soon be over. It is 4 o'clock. The mate orders my car aboard. Mrs. Wood comes back from a delightful day spent with Mrs. Gay, driving to Port Ludlow across Hood Canal. Their car is piled full with Rhododendron for the ship. We bid our gracious hosts good-bye and steam seaward through Puget Sound. San Francisco is only eighty hours away. "California, here I come."

The next and last chapter of this feature will describe the return trip from Puget Sound.

CHAPTER VIII

-Carrie Jacobs Bond.

New Passengers

We are starting homeward out of Puget Sound aboard the West Ivis. We will be at sea for three days and three nights, so we must get acquainted with the new passengers. southward bound, Meet Miss Holmes, the attractive English nurse, who boarded our freighter at Vancouver and who has been palling with Mrs. Wood for the last three days. Do they have anything in comrhon? Well, it was my wife's early ambition to become a nurse. She likes nurses and knows their language. Miss Holmes has been running a hospital in the Gulf Islands. British Columbia. She's tired and is ofi on a six months' sea voyage for a good rest.

The three other passengers are Miss Benedict, who has had many sea voyages; Miss H6arst, her room-mate, quite young and unused to the sea; and Mr. Denny, a middle aged bond broker who has sailed around Puget Sound in his own yacht and knows a lot about the country thereabouts.

You have already met Captain and Mrs, Westerberg, also the capable first mate, Mr. Thompson, and his wife. There's another officer whom you will like. He is the handsome, young Mr. Hatch, third mate. Some day he will be master of his own ship. He is courteous, thoughtful and efficient, also he is not married. (Wouldn't you like to meet him, girls?)

We steam past Port Townsend, out into the straits of Juan de Fuca, just at night fall. About 2 a.m. we hear the old whistle booming out fog signals, but not for long. In the morning at 6 o'clock when I come on deck, I look aft on our port side and recognize Tatoosh Island receding in the distance.

Al, our cabin boy, says something about big salmon jumping. We look out over the sea and there, sure enough, are what we at first suppose ate salmon leaping out of the water. The Bos'n puts us right. "They're baby seals," he says. But later we do see schools of salmon, all right, many of them leaping out of the water. We also see more baby seals as well as papa and mamma seals and all the grandmammas and granddaddies. As usual, my biologically minded wife has a reasonable explanation. We are witnessing, she says, the annual migration of the seals northward to the Pribiloff islands. Isn't it nice of them to put on this show just for us?

And now follow three delightful days, Not a seasick moment foi any of us, Sunshine early every morning until late every afternoon. Light breezes and ideal weather speed us ahead of our schedule. How do v/e know we are ahead? Come with me into the radio room where "Sparks" will tell us all about it. (Sparks is the nickname given to a ship's radio operator.) This room is equip- ped with batteries, receiver sets, sending equipment, switches, ear phones and all sorts of radio apparatus. Sparks sends and receives messages right before our eyes, Every morning at 8 and again in the evening, Sparks radios our exact position-so many miles north of San Francisco---or where are we? If you glance at this morningls Chronicle you will see the fottowing under q'Ship's Radio Reports": "West Ivis, Los Angeles to Balboa, 1780 miles north of Batboa." You could have spotted me any day of our trip by re-

(Continued on Page 34)

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Cruising With "\(/est lvis/

on the Pacific

(Continued from Page 33) ferring to this nervs report and for 20 cents a word I could have radioed this whole story to you, collect, of course.

And now let's go dgwn into the engine room, 40 feet below the boat deck. Mr. Dietrich, chief engineer, takes us through. Our engines develop 2500 horsepower. Here is the refrigerating unit, equipment to keep 10,000 cubic feet at low temperature. Here are the steam condensers. "How much fresh water do you carry?" I ask. "Oh, about 200 tons," is the reply. "And fuel oil?" "About 14,000 barrels." It seems to me we have quite enough of everything on board this ship. This engine room is a most interesting place, but we must go on deck again. There's something doing every minute.

Discovery

In my wanderings on deck I run across a small canvas canoe aft on the poop deck. This was built by the crew who use it when they go in swimming at tropical ports. Greenhorn that I am, I take Katherine aft where she is not supposed to go, and "give her a boatride" in this canoe. Bobby hears about it and wants a ride, too, so Captain Westerberg has the canoe brought forward and with his own hands he fastens it to the shrouds. over the middle hatch cover. What a wonderful and unusual swing for the kiddies I Evenings just before bed time several of us gather in and near the pantry for coffee or tea and "a cold snack." Then is the time when we hear such interesting tales. The captain intrigues us with stories of the old Spanish walled town at Cartagena, a seaport in Colombia, South America. It develops that both the captain and the 6rst mate are interested in farming. Capain Westerberg specializes in chickens and. studious man that he is. has taken two University of California extension courses, one in farm management and one in poultry farming. Do we talk chickens? One day he gives me a little souvenir from South America, which I prize very highly. I bet most of you don't know how Niggertoes (Brazil nuts) grow. Neither did I. Captain put me right and gave me the big shell (similar to a cocoanut) that encases the nuis when growing on the trees. This was cut out, smoothed and polished and.makes a unique ash tray on my desk in Wood Bros. office.

We always dress for dinner, yes sir, everybody does. just like Grant and Amy Hatch did on the Lurline, and so every afternoon about 5, Katherine gets all dolled up in little girl dresses after playing all day in jeans. Mother puts a red or a blue ribbon on her hair and we (doting parents that we are) are proud of our platinum blonde baby girl.

We approach the Golden Gate, eight hours ahead of time. We will go in by daylight. We are called up on the bridge to "see the monk come out" at Point Reyes. I stay up there and try to locate the light ship by the aid of glasses, before the mate does, but of course he beats me to it, The trip in through the Golden Gate, the boarding of our steamer by the pilot, the visits of the immigration officers and U. S. customs. another view of the big Golden Gate bridge tower (highest in the world) and the process

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of berthing our ship at the McCormick terminal-all these little events make our trip thrilling, to the last minute.

That evening we try to be nice to our nurse friend, Miss Holmes, We take her to a movie. We run right into the picture, "Men in White" with all its hospital scenes, of wards and doctors and opera- tions. Phew, one can almost smell the ether, and Miss Holmes is taking a "sea voyage" just to get away from all that. She's a good sport and has such "a jolly good time." aeain. ir

And here we are back home again, in the dearest spot in all the world. Oh, the joys of being home. Every little event has new worrq. Joys or Detng nome. lrtile meaning. Mary phones me at the office: "Daddy, the new calf is here." And that evening Katherine announces breathlesslv "Oh. lessly. "Oh, here." announces daddy, she's a she and we can raise him."

Have you enjoyed the trip with us? Well, if you have you will be glad to know that this voyage is within the means of almost anyone. So many have asked me what such a trip costs that I have written for the information. You can make it on a McCormick boat, with one week on shore at Puget Sound, for the sum of only ($26.25) twenty-six dollars and twenty-five cents, found trip ($17.50 one way), meals and berth included while on board. You can take your car.along for $10 more.

Well, folks, it has been a pleasure to sail with you. We'll go again about five years from now, when the depression is well passed, only this time we will travel southward to Porto Rico. to Trinidad and to Cartagena. Bon Voyaget

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