Cara Magazine

CARA Magazine June 2012

June 2012

Singer Glen Hansard Irish B&Bs Galway Boston Stockholm Athens

KIDS’ STUFF

How to do Boston with children

Ibiza

INSIDER’S IBIZA

Where to play and stay

Dublin literary dos

COOL STOCKHOLM A paradise for foodies

Marathons

SUMMER IN GALWAY Putting the art into party

Music festivals

AFTER THE OSCARS

Singer Glen Hansard on fame, fortune and life in NYC

Be our Guest THE IRISH B&Bs WITH CHARM

caramagazine.com

AUGUST 2011

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Contents June NEWS

04 ARRIVALS We meet Aer Lingus passengers at Dublin Airport’s T2 07 NEWS DIARY This month’s must dos 08 NEWS HOTELS Escape – Parisian glamour and quirky Victorian architecture

70

Out and about in Stockholm

10 NEWS RESTAURANTS From Dublin to New York, Eoin Higgins has the finest in dining 12 NEWS DIARY Festival Fever – Carlynn McCarthy tunes into the best of this summer’s offerings 14

NEWS DIARY On the Run – Ben Webb has the update on the latest fitness fad

FEATURES 30 HOME COMFORTS There’s nothing like an Irish B&B; Emily Hourican makes some house calls

16 NEWS SHOPPING Sive O’Brien on golf-friendly travel accessories 18 NEWS PEOPLE On my Travels – Best-selling author and creator of Ross O’Carroll-Kelly, Paul Howard, lets us in on his travelling secrets

42 MORE THAN ONCE Oscarwinning singer/ songwriter Glen Hansard talks to Tony Clayton-Lea about his new solo album, and life in NYC

20 NEWS PEOPLE What’s in my Suitcase – Frequent flyer, Lulu O’Sullivan’s travel essentials 22 NEWS BUSINESS Smart Traveller – Nespresso MD Brema Drohan on where’s best for business in Geneva 24 NEWS BEAUTY Bye-bye winter, hello bare skin, Liz Dwyer reviews the best DIY tans 26 NEWS BOOKS Shelf Life – Bridget Hourican on the latest in literature

48 THE BEST OF THE WEST Giant walking heads and great music?

Galway has it all this summer; Tony Clayton-Lea reports

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70 STOCKHOLM SYNDROME The coolest capital of the north captured Kate O’Dowd’s heart. She confesses all

REGULARS 83 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO IBIZA It’s party time and Rachel Montague has all the best addresses

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86 48 HOURS IN ATHENS If you have just the one weekend, Jane Foster knows exactly where to go

112 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Sevenyear-old Amy O’Gorman remembers her dream trip to Disney World, Florida

Boston treat

60 HAPPY FAMILIES Going to Boston with the brood in tow? Laura George has the kidfriendly tour down to an art

Galway highlights

28 NEWS DIARY Book it! Dublin comes over all literary for June, Bridget Hourican reports

89 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT The latest in onboard news, movies, music and shopping

60

Glen Hansard in NYC

86 Greek splendour

EDITORIAL Editor Frances Power Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Editorial Consultant Laura George Editorial Assistant Carlynn McCarthy Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Liz Dwyer, Suzie Coen

Contributors Johnny Savage is a Dublin based photographer whose work has been exhibited both at home and abroad and will feature in the exhibition, 100 Years of Photography at Newport in Wales later this year. For Cara, this month, he went on a jaunt around the country to capture some of Ireland’s finest B&Bs, see page 36, and is pictured here feeding the pigs at Ballyvolane House in Co Cork, “It was great to meet such a diverse and interesting bunch of people. The famous Irish welcome is still alive and as warm as ever.”

ART Art Director Clare Meredith Acting Art Director Joanne Murphy ADVERTISING Account Director Clodagh Edwards 00 353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie Advertising Manager Noelle O’Reilly 00 353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan 00 353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Head of PR & Promotions Linda McEvitt 00 353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie Office Manager Tina Koumarianos Accounts Olga Gordeychuk Accounts Assistant Lisa Dickenson BOARD OF DIRECTORS Managing Director & Publisher Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Patrick Dillon-Malone Director Ann Reihill Director Robert Power

Kate O’Dowd works as assistant editor at IMAGE magazine, when she’s not on an international assignment for Cara, of course. Kate’s visit to Stockholm, see page 70, rolled all her lifestyle loves – fashion, food and gorgeous sights – into one. She went to Arlanda with dreams of a stylish Scandinavian Utopia and returned home, dreams intact (she also returned home with a fiancée, but that’s an entirely different story). “Being in Stockholm felt like visiting much-loved friends for dinner, in their perfect home. I felt instantly happy, comfortable and welcome – and filled with jealous rage at the thoughts of returning to my hovel at the end of the trip.”

PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

Ben Webb is a London-based freelance journalist who has written for the Guardian, IMAGE Interiors, the Irish Independent and highbrow men’s magazine, GQ. He writes about interiors, food and sport, a varied repertoire to say the least. In 1998, he was awarded the title of Magazine Sports Writer of the Year in the UK. For Cara, he looked into the growing obsession with running marathons, doing triathlons and going to boot camps, see page 14. “I ran my first marathon in April and the whole experience was fantastic,” he says.

“It’s nasty but nice and very, very addictive.”

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, 00 353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, 00 353 (0)1 271 9625; fax 00 353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@ image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content.

Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

Cara Magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

Image Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie Image Publications Ltd –

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOELLE O’REILLY ON 00 353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE

June 2012

ON THE COVER

KIDS’ STUFF

How to do Boston with children

INSIDER’S IBIZA

Where to play and stay

COOL STOCKHOLM A paradise for foodies

SUMMER IN GALWAY

Putting the art into party

AFTER THE OSCARS

Singer Glen Hansard on fame, fortune and life in NYC

Be our Guest THE IRISH B&Bs WITH CHARM

caramagazine.com

AUGUST 2011

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COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Photograph of Saileog Lally of Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites by Matthew Thompson.

Arrivals

When family, friends and fishermen reunited at Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2 recently, Cara magazine was there to snap all the happy action.

Photographs by Anthony Woods.

 BRIGHID UNGAR, left, is reunited with her daughter HANNAH, right, who is HANNAH just back from studying in Germany.

 German visitor RONJA KARACHEWSKI is here to spend some quality time with her boyfriend who is currently studying in DCU.

 CELINE GARVEY, right, meets her boyfriend, stone mason KOPATZ,, left, DANIEL KOPATZ and his son JARON, centre and below, before hitting their favourite place, Glendalough, Co Wicklow.

WORDS BY CARLYNN McCARTHY

First time visitor ANTONIA VOGLER and her boyfriend GERRIT MATTER are here to spend their holidays with his family.

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 Derry native CHRIS KILGORE is returning to the Emerald Isle after a six week job search in Australia.

JUNE 2012

 Irishman and NYC pub owner, KYLE WATSON, left, is back in Ireland for the forthcoming wedding of his brother GEORGE, right.

 The DHC (German Pike Angling) Group are delighted to be back in Ireland for their annual fishing trip. Roscommon, they say, has some of the world’s best fishing.

 Washington natives and lifelong friends, from left to right, SARAH HOLLANDER, ERIN KAWELL and SARAH VOISIN keep up a tradition of reunions in disguise.

Every great city has an iconic store.

A store which celebrates luxury, creativity, service and the very best Irish and International brands

NeWS DIARY

June

What’s happening – dates for your diary

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Fifteen of Limerick and the Shannon region’s brightest and best-loved restaurants cook up a storm as part of their annual Love Gourmet Week.

Make a beeline for delicious places like Cornstore in Limerick city and the Mustard Seed in Ballingarry, where seasonal menus and local produce top the bill. Runs June 1-10 with menus from €35; rai.ie/lovegourmetweek

It’s nicknamed The Floral Island and if you’re curious as to why, June, when Jersey’s floral festival runs, is the month to find out. Take a tour of the famous Samarès manor garden with expert Tony Russell, visit lavender and rosemary fields where the herbs are culled and distilled into essential oils, or discover a secret Victorian garden. Runs June 18-24; jersey.com

Love Gourmet Week, Limerick

June in Bloom Floral Festival, Jersey

AeR LINGuS FLieS FRoM DuBLiN To JeRSeY oN TueS aND SaT, aND FRoM CoRk oN WeD aND SaT.

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Bavaria City Racing, Dublin Promising a spectacular demonstration of the world’s most exciting motorsports, Bavaria City Racing, already a roaring success in other major world cities – comes to Dublin, much to the delight of petrolheads. Drivers start their engines on June 3. Tickets, €75.90; bavariacityracingdublin.ie

5

Shakespeare in the Park, New York Madness, rage and romance descend upon Central Park from June 5-30.

The Delacorte Theatre runs al fresco performances of Shakespeare’s As You Like It to celebrate 50 years as one of New York’s most beloved traditions. Best of all, it’s completely free. Pack a picnic; shakespeareinthepark.org AeR LINGuS FLieS FRoM DuBLiN To NeW YoRk DaiLY aND FRoM ShaNNoN To NeW YoRk MoN, WeD aND FRi.

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50th International eucharistic Congress, Dublin The eucharistic Congress – a gathering to celebrate the eucharist – is held here for the first time since 1932. The weeklong Congress will centre on the RDS with the closing ceremony on June 17 in Croke Park when a videolink appearance from Pope Benedict XVi will be beamed out to the 80,000-strong attendees. Runs June 10-17; iec2012.ie

7

John Ford Ireland Film Festival Symposium, Dublin There’s so much more to filmmaker John Ford’s work than The Quiet Man. The Searchers, Fort Apache and The Informer for starters.

Check out the great man’s oeuvre at this four-day tribute to one of the most influential filmmakers of the last century – and a bit of an old cowboy himself, if this shot of him on the set of Cheyenne Autumn is anything to go by. Book now for the gala screening of The Quiet Man with orchestral accompaniment. Tickets, €80; johnfordireland.org

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news hotels

Escape

Parisian luxury and functional NYC design – this month’s hot hotels.

ClInK 78, lonDon

hotel MIssonI, eDInBURGh

Clink 78 is a former magistrates’ court restyled as a hostel that combines bold 21st century design with solid Victorian architecture. During your stay, you can hang out in the TV lounge courtroom where iconic punk outfit, The Clash, went on trial, or in the internet courtroom where Charles Dickens devised one of his most famous works, Oliver Twist. If you want to make a break for it and see the sights of London, the hostel provides free London maps and daily walking tours. You can also head to its travel shop, which offers discounted rates to some of the city’s biggest attractions. Shared dorms start at £16.50. 78 Kings Cross Road, London, 0044 207 183 9400; clinkhostels.com

Edinburgh has its fair share of classic, old school hotels but the most dazzling has to be the Missoni. Smack dab in the centre of sightseeing attractions, shopping and the university, it’s the perfect foil to Georgian splendour. Missoni designs adorn everything from the staff’s colourful zigzag kilts to the floral crockery used at breakfast (and a spectacular afternoon tea), all leavened with just the right amount of sleek, neutral furnishings and a hint of irony. The luxe factor doesn’t stop there: in-room Nespresso machines, iPod docks and a slickly packaged toiletry ensemble give a sense of extra luxury. Finally, the seasonal offerings at Cucina downstairs are not only top notch but also available 24/7 through room service. 1 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh, 0044 131 220 6666; hotelmissoni.com

AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN, SHANNON, CORK AND BELFAST TO lonDon heAthRow DAILY.

AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK AND SHANNON TO eDInBURGh DAILY.

the PoD 39, new YoRK

hotel oRIGInAl, PARIs

Quirky designer Stella Cadente’s unconventional style collides with Parisian glamour in the aptly named Hotel Original Paris.

Set in the heart of historic (and painfully trendy) Paris, just a stone’s throw from the Bastille metro stop, the hotel is a good base for exploring the city and accessing Gard du Nord. The recently revamped rooms boast decorative motifs that range from Alice in Wonderland to the nature-inspired interiors of the forest room. Breakfast can be delivered to your boudoir or taken in the breakfast lounge. And, of course, in a city where the pooch is an essential piece of arm candy, pets are welcome (on request). Single rooms from €155. Boulevard Beaumarchais, Paris, 0033 147 009 150; hoteloriginalparis.com AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO PARIs DAILY, AND FROM CORK TO PARIs, MON, WED, FRI AND SUN.

Following the success of their Pod on 51st Street in New York City, BD Hotels open a sister Pod on 39th Street this month. The ethos?

Cutting-edge technology and functional design on the cheap. The main lobby is a gadget lover’s dream; on one side there’s the “screening wall” where guests’ photographs and videos are shown around the clock, on the other, an interactive wall of oversized iPads where you can plan your next move. If you don’t feel like leaving the hotel boundaries, you can relax on the beautiful rooftop lounge.

Rooms from $119. 145 East 39th Street, New York, 001 800 742 5945; thepodhotel.com/39 AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO new YoRK DAILY AND FROM SHANNON, MON, WED AND FRI.

oad the app, create a profile and interact If room service for one doesn’t appeal, then LobbyFriend may be for you. Downl n on the best local haunts; lobbyfriend.com with fellow guests and staff in participating hotels. Great for getting the lowdow 8|

june 2012

Why travel far

for world class care?

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To access the services of the UPMC Beacon Centre for Orthopaedics, you must have a GP referral.

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NEWs REstAURANts

Food File

A bite of the Big Apple and a slice of London cool: Eoin Higgins makes his reservations.

KAIKU, BARCELONA

A firm favourite among locals and ex-pats inthe-know, Kaiku is renowned for its cool location (it’s in the slightly grungy, yet always interesting Barceloneta) and its laidback lunchtime scene.

Posh tapas fans rave about the freshness of the seafood, all of which comes from the daily fish auction less than 200m from Kaiku’s front door, while others shout about its asparagus fritters: chunks of fresh asparagus tossed in tempura and then fried crispy; alone they are delicious, drizzled in honey and a flavour sensation is born – one that keeps Kaiku’s many fans coming back again and again. Accompany your meal with another favourite: Tayaimgut Sauvignon Blanc for a true taste of Catalunya. Plaça del Mar 1, La Barceloneta, 0034 93 221 9082; restaurantkaiku.cat AER LINgUs fLieS froM DuBLin To BARCELONA DAiLy AnD froM CorK To BARCELONA, WeD, fri AnD Sun.

YOUNg & FOODIsH, LONDON

tHE gREENHOUsE, DUBLIN

Taking charge of a kitchen in a space that has typically been hurried-by (rather than stopped at) on the St Stephen’s Green end of Dawson Street, finnish chef Mickael Viljanen has already succeeded in his mission – if Dublin foodie whispers are anything to go by. The mission? To create a laidback, fine dining experience using creative combinations of local ingredients. Viljanen has an elegant presentational style that is buttressed by a superb understanding and passion for irish produce. Creations that stimulate both the tastebuds and the imagination, such as celeriac baked in salt and rye, with Skeaghanore duck hearts are why this restaurant is a must-visit on the dining lists of Dublin’s most peckish. Dawson Street, Dublin 2, 01 676 7015; thegreenhouserestaurant.ie

MOMOFUKU, NEW YORK

Daniel young, the “young” behind the young&foodish website and twitter feed, is making it his business to seek out the best feel-good foods (ie, spaghetti bolognese, hamburgers, pizza and so on) and then challenge accomplished chefs to do even better at his BurgerMonday, PizzaTuesday, SpagWednesday, WichThursday, fryfriday and CoffeeSaturday pop-up restaurants and events.

Attracting a community of food obsessives, young is on “a constant quest for the next breakthrough in taste”. This month sees roastSunday happening on June 10 with hot young chef Ben Spalding, right, who has just finished up with the acclaimed roganic pop-up in Marylebone. There are three sittings: noon, 2pm, and 4pm. Book now as places go quick.

Tune in to youngandfoodish.com, or follow @youngandfoodish on Twitter for more updates.

Currently bleeping loudly on the radar of any food nut, David Chang has become the world’s most gushed about pan-Asian advocate bar none.

His creativity is seen as the antidote to what, for many, has become a staid and predictable international fine dining scene. Chang’s first Momofuku noodle Bar openend in new york in 2004; today, he runs a chain of cult restaurants and cafés and has recently begun to set up shop globally – Toronto and Sydney branches have opened and whispers abound of a London one soon to come. if you’d like a taste of the original, a visit to the Momofuku noodle Bar in the east Village is a must. The signature pork buns have a reputation for inducing addiction after just one try ... you have been warned. 171 1st Avenue, new york; momofuku.com

AER LINgUs fLieS froM DuBLin, SHAnnon, CorK AnD BeLfAST To LONDON HEAtHROW DAiLy.

AER LINgUs fLieS froM DuBLin To NEW YORK DAiLy AnD froM SHAnnon, Mon, WeD AnD fri.

now for the seventh annual Taste of Looking for a foodie weekend fling? Food fans, diners and cooks should book Dublin event, June 14-17, at Iveagh Gardens, Dublin; tasteofdublin.ie 10 |

june 2012

“

We work with the best local producers to source the highest quality fresh Irish produce. Our aim is to create the perfect blend of traditional and modern cuisine with a simple elegance.

– Cathal Leonard.

Head Chef

Open for Lunch Mon-Thurs 12.30 to 3pm, Fri-Sat 12.30 to 5pm,

”

Dinner Mon-Sat from 5.30pm & Sunday: 1.00pm to 9.00pm 21 Kildare Street, Dublin 2.

T: (01) 6624800 reservations@townbarandgrill.com www.townbarandgrill.com

neWS diAry

Festival Fever

From muddy mayhem to laidback cool, Carlynn McCarthy has the lowdown on the best Irish festivals this summer.

T

ent, check; lukewarm beers, check; raincoat, check; festival tickets, TBC. After the spate of festival cancellations all over Europe – UK festivals Glastonbury and The Big Chill won’t be happening this year and Irish literary and arts festival Flat Lake has also been called off – it’s understandable that festival-goers are wondering what to do this summer.

The Irish festival calendar took a big hit when Oxegen (oxegen.ie) organisers announced that it wouldn’t be taking place in 2012. An event with an overall capacity of 85,000 and big names such as Black Eyed Peas and James Brown strutting their stuff on stage will be sorely missed. However, picking up the baton for big Irish festivals is Electric Picnic (August 31 to September 2; electricpicnic.ie), a firm favourite with families (it has its own festival within a festival called Soul Kids), who even have their own campsite. This

year’s line-up has something for even the most discerning musical palate: 1980s new wave pop icons The Cure share the bill with home-grown trad hero Christy Moore and genius indie electro outfit Hot Chip. It has all the quintessential large festival qualities you could ask for: big fields, huge crowds and world-famous acts that will have everyone, from your kid sister to your hipster grandpa, queuing up to buy tickets.

If the idea of fighting through crowds and joining the mile-long queues in front of port-a-loos doesn’t appeal to you, then look at the smaller picture. Out of the 1,100 festivals taking place in Ireland this year, 30 or 40 are boutique music festivals such as Westmeath’s music and arts festival, Body&Soul (June 22-24; bodyandsoul.ie) at Ballinlough Castle, Clonmellon. The organiser, Avril Stanley, believes that “smaller festivals offer an opportunity for people to connect. There is a sense of

3 of the best boutique festivals

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Castlepalooza, Co Offaly, August 3 – 5 Great line-ups and art exhibitions in the grounds of Charleville Castle. If you need “me” time there are spas on site and, if you are more culturally inclined, there are workshops galore. Weekend pass, €74, a percentage goes towards the Castle Restoration Project. It’s a bargain with a social conscience; castlepalooza.com

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june 2012

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Big and beautiful – Electric Picnic is a family favourite.

Wilderness, Oxfordshire, UK, August 10 – 12 Meshes alternative music, great food, talks, theatre and late-night parties. Families aren’t forgotten – Barefoot Books organise live storytelling, music and yoga sessions at the Kids Camp.

Set in The Cornbury Estate, it’s a must attend for nature and arts lovers. Tickets from £99.50; wildernessfestival.com

intimacy and togetherness that gets lost in big festivals.” While boutique festivals tend to be more niche than their bigger counterparts, there are so many out there you are sure to find one that fits. If theatrics are your thing, Body&Soul is jam-packed with magical nooks and crannies for both you and the kids (who will love bumping into the artists roaming around the campsite). This year’s soundtrack includes French producer M83’s saxophone-tinged electro, St Vincent’s left-of-centre pop sound and the ridiculously hard to pronounce, Django Django.

For extreme sports enthusiasts with musical leanings there is Donegal’s Sea Sessions (June 29 – July 1; seasessions.com) in Bundoran, which offers BMX and skate shows, barefoot beach Olympics, and a bill that boasts the godfather of modern hip hop, Rev Run (of Run DMC), Irish group Jape and recently reformed Manchurians, The Happy Mondays.

Festival and event officer for Fáilte Ireland, Rory McCarthy believes that smaller festivals are not only affordable and quirky, they are also convenient. “If you had to walk from one side of Glastonbury to the other, it would take you at least an hour and a very difficult hour at that.”

So whether you prefer the excitement of the bigger festivals, want to catch real waves or crowd surf, there’s a festival out there for you. And remember, don’t overlook boutique festivals in your search for big experiences – they are not small, they are fun-sized.

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Soundwave, Croatia, July 19 – 23 The alternative beach party at The Garden, Tisno, hits all the right notes with this year’s line-up, which includes De La Soul and rising UK wordsmith, Ghostpoet. If you get bored, you can hop on a party boat and watch the sun set over Murter Island or take a day trip to the nearby Kornati islands. Tickets, £105; soundwavecroatia.com

neWS diARy

On the Run

Tempted to sign up for a marathon?

Ben Webb rounds up the year’s best events.

I

“ ’m flying to Hawaii now,” and the excitement of taking part declared Jenson Button, the on the day. former world motor racing At least, that’s how it all starts. champion, after crashing in the Take Daragh Kelly, a 42-yearMalaysian Grand Prix. “I have old Irishman who three years another race on Sunday – a ago decided to get fit. He was triathlon called Lavaman. I love it. overweight, both his parents had I’m going to hurt myself because I heart conditions and he had not deserve the pain after today. I will swam, cycled or run seriously for make sure I hurt myself extra for 20 years. So he signed up to do a such a bad day.” triathlon of a 750m swim, a 40km It’s not just glamorous pin-up cycle and 5km run. “I wanted to heroes like Button who love the be around for my wife and three pain of swimming, cycling and children,” he says. “It was terrible. running triathlons or joining the Afterwards, I vowed I’d never do charity-jogging hordes at marathons another one.” or participating in one of the But he did – he had caught the fast-growing number of wacky bug and started doing longer and adventure races and fitness boot more challenging triathlons until camps. Nowadays, we’re all at it. he managed to complete his first “The demand for boot camps ironman. For the innocent among has gone up dramatically,” says you, that is a 3.8km swim, 180km Karl Henry, one of Ireland’s bike ride, with a marathon of leading personal trainers and the 42km to finish. It took Daragh 14 fitness expert on RTE’s Operation hours. “I felt fabulous afterwards,” Transformation, a TV programme he says. “Very proud. It wasn’t about putting willing guinea pigs about the time. I’m no speed through the fitness mill. “People merchant. If I was a car I’d be a want to get healthier and they want spluttering old diesel.” a challenge. The endorphin rush Participating in these events is addictive. After a few days they is very addictive. “I’m not sure are buzzing – lighter, healthier, less what it is, but something happens stressed and more energetic.” to you when you start training,” With the Olympics approaching, Daragh says. “If I don’t train for the vision of finely tuned athletes two days I’m a basket case.” That’s racing against the clock will soon why Daragh has signed up to do become a fixture on our TV screens. another ironman in Austria and The beauty of joining in anything a 650km cycle ride the length of from a fun run in the local park to Ireland from Mizen Head, Co an all-day, energy-sapping ironman Cork, to Malin Head, Co Donegal. race is that they are not really races “Austria should be beautiful,” he at all. Yes, the time does matter. A says wistfully. bit. But for most of us it’s more For most of us, an ironman is about creating a reason to get fit frankly a stage too far. More than

3 of the best ...

1

The Adventure Race, Gaelforce West, Co Galway, August 18 The largest one-day adventure race of its kind is a combination of cycling, running, hiking and kayaking. And that means overcoming obstacles like Killary Harbour, the famous holy mountain of Croagh Patrick and leg-sapping bogs; gaelforceevents.com

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june 2012

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Ironman challenges run all over the world – here, Sebastian Kienle of Germany crosses the finishing line in Miami, Florida, to become Rohto Ironman 2011.

anything, the six-times per week training plays havoc with family life. Across Europe, however, there is a wide range of fascinating – and inspirational – challenges to be entered for adventure fans with all levels of fitness. There are marathons and half-marathons in many of Europe’s major cities.

Don’t think too hard. Just do it.

On a lovely, sunny day, I recently finished my first marathon. It was in Brighton, UK, and I can honestly say it was one of the most enjoyable days I can remember. Tiring? Yes. But worth every minute of pain. All 237 of them …

The Marathon, Berlin, September 30 The race through one of Europe’s most vibrant capitals is a joy for both runners and spectators alike. So it’s popular and you will have to register a year ahead unless you get a charity place, which gives you time to train! As a very flat course it’s also good for PBs – personal bests; bmw-berlin-marathon.com.

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The Triathlon, Geneva, July 22 Swimming, cycling and jogging in the Alps. For first-timers there is a short course (500m swim, 20km cycle, 5km run) but elite athletes in the ITU Triathlon European Cup face a tougher challenge – a 1,500m swim, 40km cycle and 10km run. In case you wondered, the water temperature will be 20-22 °C; tig.ch

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NEWS SHOPPING

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JUNE 2012

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STRAP NEWS PEOPLE

On my Travels Writer Paul Howard talks to Suzie Coen about his latest escapades and reveals a strange peccadillo ...

While Paul Howard has many literary caps – he’s an award-winning journalist, biographer and author of several best-selling, non-fiction books – it has been the runaway success of his popular Ross O’CarrollKelly series that has made him a household name. Fans will be delighted to hear that Howard is currently putting the finishing touches to the twelfth book, entitled The Shelbourne Ultimatum, which is due out later this year. Meanwhile this month sees the launch of Howard’s latest work, which introduces us to another potentially cult character. Triggs – The Autobiography is a spoof autobiography of Roy Keane’s much-loved dog, set during the turmoil-filled post-Saipan days when the world’s press set up an almost permanent camp on Keane’s front lawn. As a former sports writer who has travelled all over the world, not to mention his own wanderlust, Howard is uniquely positioned to give us the lowdown on his favourite places.

3 SPORTING GOALS

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Derby Festival The Dubai Duty Free Irish Derby Festival runs from June 29 to July 1 and is one of the biggest sporting and social events in Ireland – not to mention one of the most prestigious horseracing events in the world. The Derby takes place on Saturday, June 30 at the famous Curragh Racecourse in Co Kildare – an unforgettable experience; curragh.ie

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JUNE 2012

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WHERE HAVE YOU JUST RETURNED FROM? California. My wife and I took our summer holidays early this year and we went to Sequoia National Park and then Los Angeles.

MY HEART BEATS FASTER WHEN I LAND IN ... New York. It’s so exhilarating and such an assault on the senses. And it has so many happy associations for me. My wife and I got engaged there. And it was the first city I ever visited outside Ireland and Britain.

LUCKILY, I’VE ALWAYS LIKED PLANES BECAUSE ... I did quite a lot of travelling when I worked as a sports writer for the Sunday Tribune, clocking up trips to fabulous cities like New York (eleven times), Los Angeles (seven times) and Melbourne (four times). I managed to see a huge amount of the world, which was ironic for someone who didn’t own a passport until he was 21.

I NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT ... A notebook and pen. My best ideas always come to me during my downtime and I tend to come home from holidays with pages and pages of scribbled ideas.

CUBA LEFT A MARK ON MY MEMORY ... And my arm. While attempting to snorkel (under pressure from a tour guide) in Key Largo, I was stung on my arm by a medusa fish. It felt like my arm was being permanently electrically shocked. I spent the afternoon in a tiny field

Euro 2012 Experience the excitement of the first game of Euro 2012 live in Warsaw on Friday, June 8, as Greece play host nation Poland. The match is followed by the other Group A opener between Russia and the Czech Republic; the next day, the Netherlands face Denmark in Kharkiv and Germany take on Portugal in L’viv to begin Group B; uefa.com

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hospital on a drip. The treatment, by the way, was excellent.

IT’S A STRANGE TRAVEL TIC BUT I ... Never give back my hotel room key card. I have hundreds of the things collected in a drawer. I don’t know why I do this.

I HAD THE MOST UNEXPECTED FUN IN ...

The Faroe Islands. It’s not the first place I’d pick for a holiday but I was sent there to cover Ireland’s World Cup qualifier match. It turned out to be a fabulous trip. The scenery was amazing, the weather was beautiful and everyone was in good form. Not least because high winds delayed our scheduled flight home and we got to stay and party for another 24 hours.

OF ALL THE INTERESTING PEOPLE I’VE MET ON MY TRAVELS ... Muhammad Ali was the most memorable. I also met Percy Sledge in Jamaica and he was hilarious.

IN IRELAND MY HOLIDAY BOLTHOLE IS ... Dingle in Co Kerry. I have such fond childhood memories of the place.

When I was 13, I went to the Gaeltacht in Muiríoch, just outside Dingle, to try to learn Irish. I fell hopelessly in love with the place. Although my time in the Gaeltacht didn’t last long – after two weeks I was put on a train home after I was caught speaking English – Dingle itself has remained a firm fixture in my holiday life.

NBA Finals Check out the gravity-defying athletic spectacle that is the opening games of the championship series of the National Basketball Association in the US. With the play-offs underway, the team most favoured to slam-dunk this year is Miami Heat, whose home stadium is located in glamorous downtown Miami.

The NBA Finals, as they are known, begin on June 12; nba.com

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

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Dublin has it all!

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NEWS PEOPLE

What’s in my suitcase As a seasoned transatlantic traveller, there isn’t much internet entrepreneur Lulu O’Sullivan of giftsdirect.com doesn’t know about clever packing.

She lets Suzie Coen in on her travelling musts.

SILVER PENDANT Boru, €44.99 at siopa.com

SCARF Aisling Duffy, €189 at The Design Centre, Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 679 5863; designcentre.ie

SHIRT sleeveless, sheer and bright, Simone Rocha, €540 at Havana, 2 Anglesea House, Donnybrook, Dublin 4, 01 260 2707; havanaboutique.ie

DRESS Cos, €99 at BT2, 29 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, 01 296 8400; bt2.ie

MAC CROSSWIRES CREMESHEEN LIPSTICK €17.50 at The Loop, Dublin Airport, Co Dublin, 01 814 5735; theloop.ie

SEAVITE ORGANIC SEAWEED BODY LOTION €20 at pharmacies nationwide TRAVEL COSMETIC BAG Orla Kiely, €80 at the Kilkenny Store, 6-15 Nassau Street, Dublin 2, 01 677 7066; kilkennyshop.com

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JUNE 2012

RETRO SUNGLASSES Prada, €210 at Brown Thomas, 88 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, 01 605 6666; brownthomas.com

TRAVEL BAG micro-suede holdall with leather trim details, €215 at brics.it

VOYA ANTI-AGEING FACE SERUM with organic seaweed extracts, €55 at voya.ie

PEARL BRACELET with heart charm, John Rocha, €89 at giftsdirect.com

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NEWS BUSINESS TRAVEL

Smart TRAVELLER

The best locations for doing business in Geneva? Lisa Hughes reports.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK GENEVA The Waterford-born managing director of Nespresso UK & Ireland, Brema Drohan, travels weekly on business. Here she gives tips on doing business in her favourite city, Geneva.

My favourite city for business travel … Nespresso’s HQ is in the beautiful city of Lausanne in Switzerland and I fly regularly to Geneva for meetings. I first visited Geneva in 1992 when I joined the Nespresso team and have been charmed by it ever since.

Best place for business meetings … I tend to have my meetings at The Mandarin Oriental (Quai Turrettini 1; mandarinoriental.com) which is a very beautiful hotel with the most fantastic staff.

Best places to eat …

Geneva has more than a thousand restaurants but Le Chat-Botté at the BeauRivage hotel (Quai du Mont Blanc 13; beau-rivage.ch) is acknowledged as the best – and I have to agree. I love to dine on the terrace when the weather is warm and overlook the Jet d’Eau, the world’s tallest water fountain.

Best spot for business drinks … Chez Lucien (Rue de la Scie 2; chezlucien. com) is located right next

to the Jardin Anglais, close to Lake Geneva.

It’s stylish but relaxed and the perfect location for business drinks as it has an extensive and sophisticated drinks menu.

Best business hotel … The Hotel President Wilson (47 Quai Wilson; hotelpwilson. com) is my favourite. It is very conveniently located with magnificent views of Mont Blanc mountains and the lake.

What’s tipping like? Service charge tends to be included in the bill, so tipping is not always required but, like everywhere, if you have had a particularly pleasant experience and feel like acknowledging it, a little extra is much appreciated.

Budget business travel tip … I tend not to check in luggage and have a highly functional carry-on bag that fits everything I need.

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Getting to know Geneva … Take a day out and explore the city’s culture. The boat lake or walking tours are a must if you like history; take in the United Nations European headquarters (Palais des Nation; unog.ch).

My number one travel tip …

Always allow for extra travel time! You never know where you may experience delays, whether it is on the way to the airport or an unexpected traffic jam in a taxi en route to a meeting. Online check-in is a great time saver and I always use my Aer Lingus app.

The latest camera from Nikon is hard to beat – with unparalleled range, the compact Coolpix P510 boasts a 42x zoom, a tiltable high resolution LCD monitor and full HD (1080p) movie recording option with stereo sound – all the ingredients you need to preserve your travels as vividly as possible; in three colours (black, red and dark grey) approx €471 at all good camera shops.

JUNE 2012

KEEFER’S One for the carnivores, Keefer’s is regularly voted the best place in the city for steak. Located in the heart of downtown Chicago, the restaurant has three private dining options so it’s great for groups.

(20 West Kinzie Street, 001 312 467 9525; keefersrestaurant.com) ATHENA GREEK RESTAURANT With its classic Greek feel, Athena manages to be both cosy (thanks to the open fireplace) and spacious, so you’re not on top of your fellow diners.

Main courses cost as little as $12.99 and there’s a quality vegetarian spread too. (212 South Halsted Street, 001 312 655 0000; athenarestaurantchicago.com) SEPIA Near the West Loop, Sepia offers Michelin-star food in an old print shop from the 1890s. Enjoy fresh cuisine as you lunch surrounded by memorabilia of the city’s past. Try the cotechino sausage made in house.

(123 North Jefferson Street, 001 312 441 1920; sepiachicago.com) GT FISH & OYSTER On the city’s north side, GT Fish & Oyster is the best seafood restaurant in the midwest. Whether you treat your colleagues to a round of oysters or play it safe with a tuna poke, the minimal style and attentive service of this restaurant is sure to impress. (531 North Wells Street, 001 312 929 3501; gtoyster.com) PICCOLO SOGNO Piccolo Sogno (“Little Dream”) mixes rustic Italian favourites with affordable prices and a great atmosphere. Lunch entrées cost from $12-$24 and there’s an impressive line-up of Italian wines. If it’s a good day, dine in style on the patio.

(464 North Halsted Street, 001 312 421 0077; piccolosognorestaurant.com)

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nEwS BEAUTY

Beautyon ThE Go

MY BEAUTY MUSTS If your make-up kit is taking over your suitcase, it’s time to downsize.

Beauty guru and jet setter, Bobbi Brown shares her tips for fellow beauty addicts who are always in transit.

Six fab fakes that deliver a foolproof kiss of colour.

Liz Dwyer reports.

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tone so you never look too dark or orange, just perfectly glowing, and it doesn’t aggravate sensitivities or clog pores either.

With its trailblazing combination of oil texture and self-tanning properties, Dior Bronze Self Tanning oil natural Glow, €40, ensures an unrivalled ease of application.

The oil adapts to your skin’s pH to mimic its natural reaction when exposed to

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Upgraded to a light, velvety mousse formula, L’oréal Paris Sublime Bronze Self-Tanning Golden Mousse, €22.49, melts onto the skin, providing an instant tan with a 3D – rather than flat brown – finish, which deepens after a few hours.

Possibly the best facial fake tan created, Sisley Super Soin Autobronzant hydratant Visage, €91, is quite a splurge but so worth it. It adapts to your natural skin

the sun for a few days. A sensory treat and a burnished glow are yours in a few hours.

Treat yourself to a facial at the Spa at Druids Glen Resort, a short drive from Dublin, where luxurious and ever-so effective French skincare Payot treatments are now on the menu. Payot facial with B&B for two adults, €190 mid-week; druidsglenresort. com

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For those nauseated by the often pungent odour of fake tans, Xen Tan has skirted the problem with Scent Secure Gold, €32, an instant tinted bronzer, formulated with a special molecule that surrounds and blocks the smell created when the active ingredient DHA develops.

Clarins Instant Smooth SelfTanning, €26.

A multi-tasking little wonder pot that smoothes over lines and

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june 2012

wrinkles, like a superior primer and then imparts a soft sun-kissed glow to the face, which progressively darkens.

St Tropez, the original cult tan, has moved with the times. The new Naturals range still delivers the same longwear, super-deep tan as the original formula but now ticks all the eco- and chemical-conscious boxes and has lots of new, skin-boosting benefits too. naturals Radiance Self Tan for Face, €27.95, and lightweight Self Tan Milk, €34.95.

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If you find applying fake tan time consuming, try Garnier Ambre Solaire no Streaks Bronzer Self-Tanning Mousse, €21.19, which soaks into skin in seconds, without leaving any creamy or whiffy residue and instantly gives your body a sun-kissed glow, which deepens with time.

hen you’re on the go, there is nothing worse than being weighed down by a bulky make-up bag. Multi-use products are perfect and I always choose one that will never break or spill in my luggage.

I love re-sealable plastic bags, like freezer ones. They’re inexpensive, disposable, and you never have to rummage around looking for a product.

Put your skincare in one bag; your face products (concealer, foundation, powder) in a second bag; colour (blush, eye shadow, lipstick) in a third bag; and brushes in a fourth.

Keep skincare simple but effective.

Pack a cleanser, moisturiser, and eye cream; and bring plenty of sunblock and lip balm if you’ll be outdoors a lot. I never travel without my Extra Soothing Balm and Moisturizing Balm. The Soothing Balm is truly multi-purpose – I use it on my face, lips, cuticles, even my heels.

I always carry the following bits in my hand luggage just in case: a creamy, yellow-based concealer to help brighten dark under-eye circles; blush, as it’s the easiest way to look pretty and radiant and awake, while bronzing powder/gel is the perfect antidote when skin looks a little grey. I always have a stash of elastic bands for my hair – when all else fails, nothing beats a ponytail.

And I make sure to pack healthy snacks – like Luna Bars, rice cakes and almonds.”

Lough Eske Castle, Donegal’s only 5 star hotel and spa and winner of the World’s Best Luxury Country Hotel Award 2009, 2010 and 2011, is a spectacular getaway that offers the ultimate in luxury pampering, excellent food and one of the most beautiful locations in the country.

Lough Eske Castle is available for Exclusive Hire from just €10,000 per night.

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NEWS BOOKS

Shelf LIFE

Stories set in Dublin and tales for the armchair traveller; Bridget Hourican gets reading.

The Dream of the Celt by Mario Vargas Llosa (Faber & Faber, £18.99) out June 7. It is the summer of 1916 and Dublin lies in ruins after the Easter Rising; the rebel Roger Casement awaits his death in London’s Pentonville Prison. A few years earlier he earned a knighthood and great fame as a humanitarian who exposed the barbaric treatment of indigenous peoples by European imperialists in the Congo and Amazonia. Now his petition for clemency is threatened by the leaking of his private diary detailing his secret life as a gay man … Latin America’s Nobel Laureate turns his pen to one of the most remarkable and enigmatic of Irish nationalists.

Dublinesque by Enrique Vila-Matas (Harvill, £12.99) out June 16. Samuel Riba is a successful Barcelona publisher approaching 60 and prone to anxiety attacks about the digital revolution.

One night he has a vivid dream that takes place in Dublin, a city he has never visited. In the dream, a homage to Joyce’s Ulysses coincides with a funeral for the printing press. Gathering together a group of friends, Riba travels to Dublin for Bloomsday to hold his own funeral for the book … Published three years ago in Spanish, this is considered the masterpiece of one of Spain’s leading writers.

she meets a charismatic shaman, who seduces her and invites her to become his apprentice … Today Hunt writes for the Daily Mail but also works as a shaman, leading international retreats.

The Golden Door: Letters to America by AA Gill (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, £20) out June 28. The The Shaman in world’s most savage Stilettos by Anna restaurant critics Hunt (Penguin, turns his eye to America – but £8.99) out not to eviscerate. Two of the June 7. A happiest times in Gill’s life FILMTIE-INS travel-lovewere spent living in the US. Jack the Giant Killer, spiritual Now he takes another look Snow White and the Huntsman, quest at the energetic America Prometheus are all based on fantastic in the mould of Eat, he knew in the 1970s. reads. Lily Blake’s original Snow White Pray, Love. Anna Hunt Every other small town is published June 1; Iona & Peter Opie’s was a 29-year-old in America boasts on its Classic Fairy Tales should appeal to Cambridge graduate “Welcome” sign that it and journalist, with is “home of ” something Giant Killer fans; and for a literary a Marylebone pad and – a mountain, a mine, aperitif to Prometheus, try Robert wealthy boyfriend, when peaches, barbecues, the Graves’ The Greek Myths. she took a career break to deepest hole ... So that’s where live in Peru. After months in Gill starts in this collection of the Amazon rainforest tripping linked essays – going to find the off her head on hallucinogens, homes of everything.

Who’s reading what?

Dublin novelist Tana French reveals her current literary loves.

What are you reading? I’m rereading Stef Penney’s The Tenderness of Wolves – a beautifully written, atmospheric murder mystery that’s not quite like any other.

It is set in 1840s Canada, where a woman made of pure determination sets off into the frozen wild to find her runaway adopted son, who has been accused of murder.

Where are you reading it?

Curled up on our sofa in the evenings, while my husband sits next to me and keeps me safe by destroying zombies on his Xbox.

Favourite place to visit?

Crete. It’s got amazingly beautiful beaches, breathtaking archaeology, lovely people and good food. Just writing this makes me want to book a couple of weeks there …

Best book to take on a flight?

Skippy Dies by Paul Murray.

It is dark and lyrical, sad and funny, with expert plotting, a vivid sense of the confusion and intensity of being a teenager, and razor-sharp insights into Dublin today.

You’ll want to stay on the plane after your flight lands so you can keep reading.

Broken Harbour (Hachette, £13.99) by Tana French is published on July 5.

. Get to Lismore, Co Waterford, if you Stellar line-up of travel writers at Waterford’s Immrama Festival of Travel Writing Morris, Colin Thubron, Artemis can, June 7-10, to hear some of the world’s best travel writers speak, including Jan ; lismoreimmrama.com Cooper, Paul Clements and Tony Wheeler, co-founder of the Lonely Planet guides 26 |

JUNE 2012

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neWS Diary

Book it

W

hat is it with June? Bloomsday?

Midsummer? The sun? Or at least the hope of sun … Take your pick, but this is probably Dublin’s most literary month and certainly its most optimistic in terms of outdoor literary events – from the annual Bloomsday plunge at the Forty Foot in Sandycove, to an epic Joycean audio walk from Chapelizod to Ringsend, to ten days of open-air Shakespeare in the Iveagh Gardens, Trinity College and other central Dublin beauty spots.

The Dublin Writers Festival (June 4-10) is bringing a host of top international literary names to the capital and inviting you to hear them in traditional literary venues – Irish Writers’ Centre, Samuel Beckett Theatre – as well as in more unusual, maverick places such as Liberty Hall and the Workman’s Club.

Among all the glittering names, we’re maybe most excited by Nobel Laureate Mario Vargas Llosa, who’ll be talking about his latest novel, Dream of the Celt, in the Gate Theatre on June 10 (see review on page 26). The “Celt” here is one of Irish nationalism’s most enigmatic figures, Roger Casement, who, it turns out, is as much a hero in Llosa’s native Peru. Intrigued? Then make sure to book.

You’ll also have to book for the Trinity College Shakespeare Festival’s headline attraction – Indian Tempest performed nightly in Trinity College’s Front Square – but most of the other 50 performances

in this outdoor festival are free and may take you by surprise. If you’re in Temple Bar or St Stephen’s Green the week June 6-10, expect to hear the bard declaimed by professionals or amateurs. Says festival director, Paul Testar, there are two main aims: “To bring Shakespeare’s texts off the page and out of classrooms and relocate them into accessible outdoor spaces, and to bring his works to audiences that might not usually have the opportunity to experience them first hand.”

Taking a classic text and making it accessible outside the classroom and to all audiences is what Bloomsday is about. Not only Dublin but the world over celebrates the day, June 16, on which the action in Joyce’s masterpiece, Ulysses, unrolls. Bloomsday has been celebrated in Dublin for almost 60 years and is now a week-long festival (June 10-16), involving swims, picnics, flower shows as well, of course, as readings, lectures, and plays. It can be all about the text, or all about Edwardian food and costume – your choice: get into Joycean semantics or feathery hats and cameos.

This year is the 90th anniversary of the publication of Ulysses, but there’s also a special focus on Dubliners, which was chosen for 2012’s One City, One Book. Innovative theatre group Wonderland have put a brilliant gloss on the traditional Joycean walking tour – they’ve turned the 15 short stories in Dubliners into an audio play, with an ensemble

3 Best DuBlin literary Dos

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The Dublin Writers Festival, June 4-10 now in its 14th year and held in twelve venues around the city centre. readings and discussions with top international authors, including mario Vargas Llosa, richard Dawkins, rachel Cusk, Christopher Paolini, ed Vulliamy, Jeanette Winterson – as well as children’s creative writing workshops. tickets €5 to €20; dublinwritersfestival.com

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Courtesy of the James JoyCe Centre/PhotograPh by Leon farreLL

Bloomsday, Shakespeare, Mario Vargas Llosa?

Looks like June is set fair for literature fans.

Bridget Hourican reports.

Blooming wonderful – on June 16 the streets of Dublin come alive with Joycean shenanigans.

The Trinity College Dublin Shakespeare Festival, June 6–16 both the largest celebration of shakespeare and the largest outdoor theatre festival in Ireland. footsbarn performing Indian Tempest nightly in trinity College’s front square is this year’s headline performance. tickets €20/€22. other performances are free ; dublinshakespeare.com

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cast, led by Barry McGovern. Put on a headset and take a map to retrace the steps of Joyce’s characters around the city. Joyce boasted that if Dublin were destroyed, it could be reconstructed from his works, and Wonderland director Alice Coghlan confirms: “We’re getting a lot of locals, as well as tourists, doing the tour, and they’re telling us that they’re seeing parts of Dublin they never knew existed.”

And if you’d rather sea air with contemporary writers, then take the Dart to the former fishing village of Dalkey, now home to celebs and jet-setters, for the Dalkey Book Festival (June 15-17). The brainchild of Dalkey local, economist David McWilliams, this festival is only in its third year, but since this small village probably boasts more writers and journalists per square metre than anywhere outside Listowel – think Maeve Binchy, Neil Jordan, John Waters, Vincent Browne – and since, anyway, most Dubliners’ favourite outing involves going to Dalkey for pints and dolphin spotting, then this is one great way to spend the Bloomsday weekend.

James Joyce’s Dubliners, an audio walk happens daily. the full Day’s epic (€19) from Chapelizod to ringsend is eight hours long; the half Day’s adventure (€12) focuses on seven stories in the city centre, culminating with “the Dead”, read in the historic house of the Dead, where Joyce’s aunts lived (tea and cakes served); wonderlandtheatre.com

“Rustic Stone is innovative, has arguably Ireland’s most talented chef in the kitchen, and serves great food.”

Paolo Tullio, The Saturday Independent

17 South Great Georges Street / 01 707 9596

Find us on Facebook - www.facebook.com/rusticstone.ie.

Follow us on twitter. www.rusticstone.ie

PEOPLE

Ballyvolane House, Co Cork

Justin Green and his wife Jenny moved home to Ballyvolane in Cork in 2003. Justin was bringing his years at the top of his profession in Asia, Dubai and as general manager of Babington House, Somerset, back to the family business. Since then, this always-elegant and luxurious historic house has increasingly radiated confidence and a sense of well-being.

“Ballyvolane is the real deal,” he explains. “A homely, authentic country house that appeals to people interested in historic Ireland. What they find here is a sense of place and a connection with the country.” They also find gracious, spacious drawing rooms, open log fires, free-standing antique baths, gloriously comfortable beds dressed with fine Irish linen, and all the little extras that elevate the experience. “We have homemade blackcurrant or elderflower cordial in the bedrooms when they arrive; food is all home-grown on the estate or locally sourced. We keep hens and ducks and can take guests to collect eggs, which they get a big kick out of.”

Dinner is like a scene out of Downton Abbey – long, polished mahogany table, solid silver cutlery, five courses of excellent country house cooking. Guests dine together, often finding common ground in a love of history and culture, against a backdrop where the wonderful ambience is “as carefullymanaged as a theatre production”, says Justin. “Dimming lights, setting fires, drawing curtains, plumping cushions; there is constant work going on behind the scenes to produce the right atmosphere.” Ireland’s magnificent Big Houses were “designed for lavish entertaining”, as Justin points out. “If we didn’t have people to stay constantly, there wouldn’t be the same incentive to extend and maintain the house and gardens.”

Ballyvolane House & Blackwater Salmon Fishery, Castlelyons, Fermoy, Co Cork, 025 36349; ballyvolanehouse.ie or irelands-blue-book.ie. Rate, from €95pps.

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Home

Comforts

The Irish B&B experience is as much about the owners – the welcome, the chat, the food, the insider tips – as about the place.

Though these days, as Emily Hourican points out, the place can be something pretty special too. Photographs by Johnny Savage.

A

sk almost any visitor to Ireland what they hope to find here, and the answer will be overwhelmingly simple. They want what they have been encouraged to expect – a warm welcome; friendly, charming people; an abundance of natural beauty, from terrifyingly windswept to gently pretty. Yes, these days we do sophisticated Michelinstarred food, fire-breathing parade dragons and cutting-edge technology, but the bedrock of our appeal is exactly what it has always been.

Even those of us who live in Ireland want to find and experience these simple things when we travel around our country. We long for the magic of a memorable few days away, which are often as much a step back in time as a step outside the daily routine.

And yet, simple though this wish list sounds, it is of course anything but.

Indeed, there was a time, not at all long ago, when the legend of Irish hospitality looked like it might fade into an indifferent past. When being rich looked like it might make us careless, and being good at chasing money

suddenly meant we weren’t so good at sitting still and chatting any more.

A surge of new hotels – many aspiring to the “boutique” label, others appearing under a variety of international brands – momentarily dislodged the more traditional sources of Irish hospitality, namely the B&B. The appeal of flock wallpaper and Alicein-Wonderland furniture, or 24-hour room service and luxurious spas, cast the more homely appeal of many B&Bs into the shade.

That moment may just be over. It seems that “homely” is just what june 2012

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people

many travellers want. A piece of authenticity, a bit of chat with their hosts, the benefit of vast local knowledge, and the opportunity to sink into a comfortable armchair, in front of a warm fire after a day’s exploring.

At the same time, a quiet revolution has been taking place within the B&B sector itself. A distilling of quantity into quality.

In 2001 there were 3,915 registered B&Bs in the country, with 16,242 rooms between them. Ten years later, that number had fallen to 1,907, with 8,059 rooms. Those that survived the cull are generally the best and most dedicated. Occupancy of these remaining rooms has risen slightly in the last years, from 27 per cent in 2010, to 31 per cent in 2011. It’s an upward trend that looks set to continue, as Fáilte Ireland throws its weight behind these B&B owners, with an initiative called New Vision, aimed at upping the quality and visibility of what’s on offer.

However, there are of course a staunch number of B&Bs that need no help at all. Where the owners understand fully the nature of what they have, and where the creation of a delightful home from home for their visitors is second nature.

These B&Bs can be anything from a magnificent stately home, to a tiny whitewashed cottage or sleeklydesigned architectural delight, and Ireland now has many of them. There is no blueprint for their success – each is unique, inspired by its local area, personal history and geography.

Some are deeply luxurious, others demonstrate a charming simplicity.

What they have in common is the level of dedication shown by those who run them. These hosts are so full of enthusiasm for their house, gardens and local area that they naturally go much further than an extra mile to communicate this passion to guests.

We cannot count on the weather in this country, but we can count on the warmth and generosity of welcome in the best places to stay.

From an increasingly impressive selection, we have chosen just six fantastic – and very different – examples.

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Number 31, Dublin 2 This Sam Stephenson-designed urban gem lives easily with its contradictions. A classic Georgian house incorporating 1960s modernist sensibilities; a city-centre guest house with a country-warm welcome; a one-time family home that hosted some of the greatest celebrities of the era: Charlie Haughey, Henry Kissinger, Grace Kelly and Ted Kennedy all attended the architect’s legendary parties. It’s a tradition of hospitality that lives on.

Number 31 offers super-luxurious Hastens beds, with linen by Matteo, and a breakfast deemed the best in Ireland in 2008 by Georgina Campbell (think a refectory-style table set with homemade rhubarb and strawberry compote, homemade granola and cereal, natural yoghurt, followed by a full Irish, scrambled egg with smoked salmon, eggs Benedict, kippers, or maybe a bowl of

porridge). Meanwhile, hosts Deirdre and Noel Comer take their duties as ambassadors for Ireland with charming seriousness. “We are meeting people constantly and engaging with them. We understand what a welcome means,” explains Noel, above, who retired from the Army in 1996 to run Number 31. “It’s a very traditional thing in Ireland – you bring someone into your home and look after them.” This looking after involves tips on where to go and what to see in Dublin, and a comprehensive map, showing spots such as Marsh’s Library that might be slightly off the beaten track. “We are the first port of call for many visitors, and I understand that commitment – to send them off in a positive way. After all, first impressions last.”

Number 31, Leeson Close, Dublin 2, 01 676 5011; number31.ie. Rate, from €80pps.

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Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites, Co Galway “Everything we do stems from our location. We are 15 miles off the west coast; remote, isolated and exposed to the elements. The beauty of the landscape and terrain is what informs us.” So says Marie-Thérèse de Blacam, pictured above, with husband Ruairí, and indeed the breathtaking appeal of Inis Meáin Restaurants & Suites is precisely this: it sits effortlessly into its stunning natural environment. Each suite has 10m-long continuous windows, in order to connect with the outside, interiors are natural wood and lime-plastered walls, with soft furnishings made from cashmere and baby alpaca from the island’s own knitwear factory.

Marie-Thérèse and Ruairí encourage their guests to get out and explore the rugged terrain and wildlife of the island, providing light-weight bikes, binoculars and a freshly-cooked hot-pot lunch for expeditions. The Restaurant, meanwhile, which the couple runs with the help of Ruairí’s cousin Saileog Lally (see our cover),

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is increasingly being recognised internationally (the Financial Times lauded it as one of the twelve best in the world last year), and pursues the same commitment to the natural bounty of Inis Meáin. “Local lobster, crabs, scallops and fish are to the fore of our menus,” Marie-Thérèse explains. “We grow almost all our own vegetables, and we keep pigs, chickens, even a cow.” Wonderful natural ingredients are presented simply and without fuss, eaten in a dining room with panoramic views of the island and ocean, where the sky is often flooded with pink as the sun sets slowly behind the Connemara mountains. Once there, it is hard to imagine a more heavenly spot.

Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites, Aran Islands, Co Galway, 086 826 6026; inismeain.com. Rate, two nights in a suite, from €500, including breakfast, transfer and orientation.

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PEOPLE

The Green Gate, Co Donegal “One must love the wind, the storm, the water.” Such is Paul Chatenoud’s prescription for a happy life in this remote corner of Donegal, without TV or internet access. He originally came to The Green Gate to write, having sold his Parisian bookshop.

After ten years, “I had no money left; I said ‘what can I do? I will open a B&B …’” Not necessarily the most promising of starts.

However, Paul soon found an unexpected level of enthusiasm.

“People love it. I love it. I meet people from different countries, of different ages and backgrounds.” Clearly, the interaction satisfies the writer in Paul, who continues to produce work – last year he published an essay, “about everything: love, life, death, politics, smoking, drinking”.

The Green Gate, roughly a kilometre and a half outside Ardara, is a tiny, whitewashed cottage with just four bedrooms,

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overlooking the ocean. Rooms have an almost monastic feel – clean and bare – and breakfast is a traditional fry, with 20 different types of homemade jam and marmalade. But what most visitors seek here is the uninterrupted quality of peace.

Many return year after year, searching for what Paul is able to provide – simplicity that is almost Spartan. “My very first customer still comes back every year,” he tells me. “People come to rest. We have time to talk, and I learn a lot thanks to them.” It seems Paul is continuing a very Irish tradition – of long talks over turf fires, generous hospitality and an effortless exchange of cultures.

The Green Gate, Ardara, Co Donegal, 074 954 1546; thegreengate.eu (no internet/email). Rate, from €45-€55pps.

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PEOPLE PEOPLE

Kilgraney House, Co Carlow The eclectic influences of Kilgraney house are immediately apparent – think carved wooden figures from the Far East in the six spacious bedrooms – but they blend into the overall impression of comfort, space and serenity.

The aesthetic devised by owners Bryan Leech and Martin Marley is simple – items they love, sourced from their many years abroad, carefully worked into the beauty of this classic Georgian country house. It’s a recipe that delivers an exotic feel that is yet discernibly Irish.

Recently, Bryan and Martin have restored and extended the outbuildings and gardens, creating a magnificent aromatherapy centre around the plants, herbs and flowers they grow. “There is a herbal tea walk in the kitchen garden,” explains Bryan, “a herbal medicine garden, where we grow herbs to treat anything from sleep disorders to skin complaints; an oncology garden, in honour of my mother, where we have plants currently used or under consideration to use in cancer treatments.” A rose

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garden, cosmic herb garden and monastic garden each add their own lustre to this unique and lovely setting, which includes an outdoor thermal pool and relaxation area.

And of course, the benefits make their way into the magnificent meals cooked and served at Kilgraney. “We make our own vinegars, our own sorbet using various teas, we have our own hives and make honey.” As well as being talented interior designers, horticulturalists and chefs, Bryan and Martin understand the need for a sound grasp of psychology. “You need to figure out if someone needs nurturing or to be left alone,” says Bryan. “There is a good deal of skill involved in getting the level of interaction just right. By the end of the season, we are usually exhausted and ready for some downtime, but truly, the house is dead without people.

Come spring, we can’t wait to reopen.”

Kilgraney House, Bagenalstown, Co Carlow, 059 977 5283; kilgraneyhouse.com or irelands-blue-book.ie. Rate, from €85pps.

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‘Roisin’s artworks are a great example of contemporary Irish art.’

H.E. Michael Collins, Ambassador of Ireland to the U.S.

‘Uplifting during these challenging times.’

Wall Street Journal

‘Mesmerizing, beautifully exquisite art.’

Loretta Brennan Glucksman, Chairperson American Ireland Fund

‘...Brings beauty and nature together with simple elegance.’

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‘...Inspires us to connect with the light within, creating more peace and joy in our lives.’

Mark Burnett, TV Producer (Emmy Awards, The Voice), Roma Downey, Actress (Touched by an Angel)

‘Clarity...Realize the oneness.’

Washington Post

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‘Illuminating New York...a contemporary interpretation of light-infused phenomena.’

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‘...From her amazing piece of art, I feel inexplicable joy and well-being.’

Christy O’Connor Jnr., Ryder Cup Champion golfer

‘Lighting up living spaces.’

The Irish Times

Solo exhibition at the Irish American Heritage Museum, Albany, New York, May 8 – June 30, 2012

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PEOPLE

Wild Honey Inn, Co Clare Omelette Arnold Bennett may not be exactly the kind of luxurious breakfast ramblers and cyclists are expecting when they check into the Wild Honey Inn in Lisdoonvarna, but then chances are they have a slightly different interpretation of “pub with rooms” to chef-owner Aidan McGrath and his wife Kate Sweeney, above.

“We deliberately play it down a little bit,” confesses Aidan, “we like people to go away feeling that they have discovered a little more than they were expecting.”

Fourteen delightfully cosy bedrooms, all overlooking the magnificent surrounding countryside, with a bustling pub downstairs, serving just the kind of excellent food one would expect from a chef who has worked at the Dorchester and as head chef for Marco Pierre White in L’Escargot. Think open crab

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sandwich with organic leaves and pickled cucumber, or homemade Angus beef burgers. “We’re really a pub culture in Ireland,” says Aidan, “so the idea was to put the kind of food we would like to eat, into a traditional Irish pub. We think this is the best way to give them what they want. Luxury, without formality.”

Clients are mainly walkers and cyclists, bent on discovering the Burren. “They’re out all day,” Aidan explains, “so when they come back, they want good food, a nice bottle of wine, and the chance to chat and interact with locals.” All this the Wild Honey Inn provides in abundance. Simplicity, great heart and a short-cut to local intimacy.

Wild Honey Inn, Kincora Road, Lisdoonvarna, Co Clare, 065 707 4300; wildhoneyinn.com. Rate, from €45pps including breakfast.

Our Team is Your Team At our launch in 2010, we said that ‘without people, a venue is just a building’.

CCD Events

Since then, we have hosted over 500 events, welcoming an impressive list of Irish and International corporate and association conferences and meetings.

Our clients, from Google to Alcatel Lucent, from TM Forum to the International Statistical Institute, have consistently praised, above all else, the warmth, calibre, flexibility and can-do attitude of our team.

When you book an event at The CCD, not only will you benefit from an iconic, world-class venue in the heart of Dublin, you will also be safe in the hands of our award-winning team, whose goal is to deliver truly amazing events on every occasion.

Since opening, we have won 11 industry awards, achieved ISO 9001 and 14001

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accreditation, and a customer satisfaction rating of 96%. In 2012, our mission is to keep improving and innovating, to become the best conference venue in Europe.

We would love to talk to you about your next event, so call us today and find out how our team can become your team.

Contact our Sales Team on: +353 1 856 0000 Email: sales@theccd.ie or visit: www.theccd.ie

CCD Hospitality

PhotograPh by hedi rose

IntervIew

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JUNE 2012 JUNE 2012

MORE than

Once

I

He hit the limelight with The Commitments, scooped an Oscar for Once, and now his new solo album is about to launch, but still singer/songwriter Glen Hansard remains a most reluctant celebrity. He talks to Tony Clayton-Lea about life in NYC, and how he hankers after that little bit of land …

t is no small irony to Oscar-winning singer/songwriter/performer Glen Hansard that sometimes major success comes to those who, quite like himself, he admits, would rather whittle wood and talk to themselves in ramshackle sheds miles away from anywhere. It’s an even bigger irony when the type of success many might think they’d like visits them twice. “One’s response to success has to be fluid,” reckons Hansard. “The answer I give now might not be the answer I’d give tonight or in the morning.”

Over 20 years ago, Hansard – a reflective man now in his early forties, sporting a beard, flecked with grey, and something of an icon for the species known as the “Irish singer/songwriter” – featured in director Alan Parker’s treatment of Roddy Doyle’s The Commitments. His performance (as Outspan Foster) was notable for being the least grandstanding of the ensemble cast and probably the most naturalistic, yet the idea of a sequel made him uneasy. There was, he avers, frustration where almost overnight he became a celebrity. Such frustration came about due to not being recognised

for his songwriting – the very thing that he loved the most was sidelined by the hype surrounding the movie.

“I didn’t deal with it well at all with The Commitments,” he says of his instant rise in profile. “It was only in Dublin, though; at first it was great being called Outspan but then it got very wearing.” And so Hansard disappeared from films, television and follow-ups, and instead concentrated on music.

It was always going to be music for this most passionate of singer/songwriter/ performers. He left school in the mid-1980s to fulfil his ambition of being the new or the next Bob Dylan/Van Morrison/ Leonard Cohen. “I wanted everything,” he recalls of his teenage years spent busking on and around Grafton Street. “I wanted to be huge, famous, to be Bob Dylan, Van Morrison, Leonard Cohen, or a mixture of all of those guys, to live like them, tour like them, into my seventies. These were my childhood goals and they haven’t changed.”

A rooted, world-wise Dublin childhood spent hanging around Moore Street (his mother once worked from a stall there) and

its environs toughened up an Artful Dodgerlike Hansard to the point where an old head started growing on young shoulders. By the age of 17 he had left home to rent a flat on the outskirts of the city, giving him an air of command and ownership.

Busking on Grafton Street eventually led to forming The Frames, a band that gained an intense, ever-growing fan base predicated on Hansard’s often electrifying stage presence and his tendency to hoist himself up as spokesperson for a generation (a position that gained him as many media friends as foes). Hansard and The Frames, nonetheless, quickly rose to the top of the pile, in the process becoming standard bearers of an attitude that didn’t define success in terms of record sales and/or securing a major label record deal. And so it continued.

Hansard cared (and still cares) little for the star tag. He is, as we have hinted, a reluctant celebrity – the nature of which he understands only too well. The arc of his music career has travelled from accepting coins from passersby on Grafton Street, to groundwork with The Frames, to receiving JUNE 2012

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an Oscar in Hollywood for the indie movie, Once, to success with the postOnce group, The Swell Season, to a forthcoming solo album. Through all of these career points, he has aimed to be grounded, earthed, with no airs or graces from the associated success.

“I would say that all of us in our lives want success in whatever it is we choose to do,” the 42-year-old singer reasons. “Where it gets interesting, though, is that when you go after your dream the journey itself is a natural organism – you can’t really control it. You can sabotage it, of course, at certain moments. And then there are other moments when you’re going to fire that arrow; and there are moments where that arrow is going to go a lot further than you had ever thought. You have no control over that, but I have to say that when we made Once, and we took it to Sundance, we couldn’t believe our luck.”

We’re not so certain that luck has much to do with it – Once is a gem, one of those “little” films with a big, booming heart, bolstered by realistic performances from Hansard and co-star (and former real-life partner) Markéta Irglová, and a batch of tender songs – one of which, “Falling Slowly”, nabbed the Oscar for Best Original Song in 2008. Its showing at the Sundance Film Festival in

PhotograPh by conor masterson

IntervIew

Hansard has ever been (and that’s saying something), a collection that, like its creator, once again refuses to wear masks or play games. In the search for something to truly connect (or reconnect) with, it seems that Hansard had been yearning for some years to spend time alone – with himself, his family – and write about the experience.

“I had played a show in Iceland with The Frames in 2010, and came to the realisation that as much as I loved it and them, what was missing was a re-establishment of my relationship with my family –

The New York dreamer – Hansard appreciates the positivity he finds in the city.

“My father had died a couple of years ago, and I knew I had never really dealt with that. I just knew I needed not to do anything for one year.”

2007 swept up all who watched it in an all-encompassing yet gentle embrace. In its wake, came the band The Swell Season (which featured Irglová and members of The Frames), and on the horizon right now is Hansard’s debut solo album, Rhythm & Repose, and accompanying solo shows around the world.

Recorded in New York (where Hansard now lives, in a rented apartment in the East Village), the album highlights a maturation process that is measured and meditative. It is as honest in song as 44 |

JUNE 2012

my brothers, my mother. My father had died a couple of years ago, and I knew I had never really dealt with that. I realised I just needed not to do anything for one year.”

Describing it as a kind of epiphany (“I just needed to take some time off and get to do regular things, like going to the doctor for a check-up!”)

Hansard – on his return to Ireland – simply pulled down the shutters.

“The nomadic lifestyle is brilliant, the best ever, but there were loads of little things that weren’t getting done. And in order to fix those,

they required a slow unwinding that takes months. Usually, when I take time off, the first two weeks are spent in panic because there’s no schedule. A month goes by and I’m still panicking. After two months, however, you begin to wind down.

You start to see the wood for the trees, patterns begin to emerge that are unfamiliar and that are actually very good for you. I needed to reenergise, and that meant taking time away from being on a tour bus and being in front of, mostly, strangers every night.”

More impactful, perhaps, was that, around this time, Hansard turned 40. “Something clicked,” he smiles, shaking his head with a mixture of sigh and revelation. “I have to admit that I’m still figuring out exactly what it was that clicked, but I realised that my time somehow meant more to me than it had ever before. I wanted to spend time around people that I really cared about, and doing things I really wanted to do. I love music, it has been my life, but the last thing I wanted it to become was any kind of force that pulled me away from being grounded.”

There has been, also, he admits (somewhat sheepishly), “a competing instinct over the past few years about wanting to be a father, with a bit of land … The need to engage with normal living …”

And so, in bitterly cold January 2011, Hansard found himself

IntervIew

... BAr “the Scratcher (208 East 5th Street at Cooper Square; 001 212 477 0030) is an Irish Bar without any of the flags or dead writers on the wall. It has an old Bowery dive bar feel; it’s quiet most nights which I like, and Renata the barmaid will talk your troubles away.” ... reStAUrAnt “Ballatto (55 East Houston Street, between Mulberry St and Greene Street; 001 212 274 8881) is an Italian restaurant that has survived the gentrification of its surroundings, and used to be an old local for the likes of Jackson Pollack, Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, David Bowie, and so on. It serves great homemade Italian food in a room that feels timeless, yet haunted.” ... new YOrK CItY AttrACtIOn “Cycling the river from one end of Manhattan to the other, dipping into Central Park on the way up, and then on up to the George Washington Bridge; back through Harlem and down the East river, then over the Williamsburg Bridge into Brooklyn and back. It takes the day, but you get a sense of all the changing neighbourhoods, which is what Manhattan is all about.” ... BOOKS “Forty Stories by Anton Chekhov is a wonderful collection of the Russian writer’s shorter observations. I love his writing – he steps out of the way of his work and lets the plain word and description take hold in the reader’s imagination.” ... MUSIC “All is Well by Sam Amidon. This record was released in 2008, and it still brings me huge comfort – it speaks across time somehow.

Sam has taken some very old traditional folk songs and reworked them into new and delicate phrasings. It’s the perfect long-flight album for me – I’m often a nervous flyer and listening to this somehow makes the flight go smoother. I revisit this album over and over again. All is well, indeed.”

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PHoToGRAPH BY CoNoR MASTERSoN

Glen Hansard’s favourite ...

in Manhattan with a relatively uncluttered mind and a few songs.

Linking up with musicians that he hadn’t played with before (he describes them analogously as a “shoal of fish whose direction can change in a heartbeat”) he suggested they book a studio in order to record the songs with the minimum of instrumental fuss.

Despite not knowing the musicians, the feeling of playing songs and getting them right the very first time, he recalls, made the interaction a wonderful experience.

After the second visit to the studio he realised he was in the middle of making a solo record. “I was living in a different city, in a great apartment, in a very different headspace.”

Also, as it transpired, he was recording and living in the city at the same time as the rehearsals for the musical version of Once (which has been nominated in eleven categories in this year’s Tony Awards). It allowed him the “luxury of being able to stick my head in, and ask how things were going”.

His initial reaction was panic, he says, when he first heard that the highly successful movie was being transformed into a Broadway musical.

“I tried to talk John Carney [director/ writer] out of doing it, but he was smart about it, suggesting some

No fuss – Hansard has been enjoying the freedom and spontaneity he’s found through recording with new musicians.

things for it that really assisted in the transformation. When I first saw it in rehearsals, I was amazed. And the finished item is, with my hand on my heart, a beautiful piece of work.

And more importantly, the stage version now owns its own place – they have taken the film and brought it to a whole other place. So there’s a great sense of relief and admiration about it.”

Relief and admiration – it is surely what those who have followed Hansard’s career from his early Frames days now feel about him.

Relief that, despite being thrust into the public eye not just once (if you get my drift) but twice, the singer hasn’t gone off the rails. And admiration at the way in which he has negotiated the potentially dysfunctional route from busker to Oscar winner with integrity and honesty.

He puts some of this down to the inherent vibrancy of New York.

“There are a lot of green lights in the city, in the sense that it’s all go. The Native Americans claim that it’s very charged, so Manhattan has this sense of amplification, and whatever energy I needed when I went there last year it really gave it to me.

“Even if Once hadn’t happened, I’m sure the city would have been the same for me,” he reasons, stroking his beard for full sage-like effect. “It’s a city of excellence, because the best always gravitate towards the centres.

If you want to swim in that pond, you have to be good. You can wing it, but only for so long. It’s a city of grafters, too.”

Well, it takes one to know one …

Rhythm & Repose is released June 19.

Glen Hansard performs at the following Aer Lingus destinations in June/July: Chicago (The Vic, June 26), New York (The Beacon Theatre, June 29) and Bologna (Botanique Festival, July 18). Visit glenhansardmusic.com for further details.

Once continues (on an open run) at the Bernard B. Jacobs Theatre, 242 West 45th Street, New York, 001 212 239 6200.

Visit shubertorganization.com/theatres/ jacobs.asp for further details. The Tony Awards ceremony takes place at NYC’s Beacon Theatre, June 10.

O

’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs.

Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned O’Neill’s.

Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has flourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. O’Neill’s is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin.

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ... ●

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´.

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Traditional Irish Music 7 nights-a-week

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Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

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Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers in Ireland

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Pour Your Own Pint tables

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Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

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HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast only

€6.95

Available Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm

“Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin”

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area

Summer in galway

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Some of the folks behind the show stopping Macnas Parade, left, Sharon O’Grady, producer, and Noeline Kavanagh, right.

Opposite, the sun never sets on party town. june 2012

Best West

the

of the

If it’s culture and craic you’re after, then Galway is the place to head for this summer. Tony Clayton-Lea tunes into the City of Tribes. Photographs by Matthew Thompson.

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Summer in galway

W

hen it comes to clout, the Galway Arts Festival leaves most other arts festivals in Ireland reeling in its wake. “One of Europe’s most important cultural events”, “one of the most significant arts festivals anywhere”, “provocative, challenging, diverse and inclusive,” “the biggest, most exciting, most imaginative explosion of arts activity this country has”. And how about this from the UK’s Guardian newspaper in 2008: “The joy of Galway Arts Festival is that it covers the artistic waterfront without, like its famous Scottish sister (Edinburgh), offering us a deluge.

I’ve rarely encountered a better curated festival or one that more exhilaratingly mixed the local and the international.”

As you can tell from the above quotes culled from various media over the years, the festival, founded in 1978, has become a pivotal

showcase for Irish and international arts. Although locally it might be favoured for its remit of defining the cultural expression of the City of Tribes (as Galway is known), internationally it is viewed as a flagship arts festival that is always open to initiating, commissioning and producing new work.

Going back over old ground, then, is not something the Galway Arts Festival (GAF) does – a point proven by last year’s magnificent one-man theatre production, Misterman (featuring actor Cillian Murphy), which premièred at the festival and moved on to wow

Clockwise from top left, the man behind the festival, artistic director Paul Fahy; scenes from Macnas HQ; the workshop; and the ideas board.

DAY TRIP If the buzz of Galway gets a little bit too much to handle (there’s a lot going on, so it might!), then less than 80km north-west of the city is the serene harbour village of Roundstone. Think a picturesque setting, excellent seafood restaurants, craft shops and a quirky café or two; roundstone-connemara.com 50 |

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Gerry Mulholland, pianist, shoots the breeze at Tigh Neachtain.

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Summer in galway Summer in galway

Stay at ...

g Hotel

audiences in London and New York, as well as picking up several prestigious awards.

“Our starting point every year is quality – to us that’s key,” says GAF artistic director Paul Fahy, who first acquainted himself with the festival as a volunteer in 1987. Subsequently, Fahy was GAF’s publicity manager for a number of years, before being appointed artistic director in 2005.

“Some festivals around the world might work around a theme, but I look for high quality in everything.

We’re pitching for that all of the time, especially high quality work that people wouldn’t necessarily see in Ireland except at festival time.

That, and the fact that we don’t

repeat ourselves, keeps us unique.

“We also create original productions, such as last year’s Misterman, and DruidMurphy, which is showing this year. We do that across the art disciplines, not just in theatre. That sense of origination makes Galway not just attractive nationally, but also across the world. That’s why we have such a high number of international visitors to the festival – they know they’ll see things in Galway first.”

Fahy is, of course, exceptionally well placed to comment on such matters. He has experienced the festival from most if not all perspectives – when one effectively steps from the shadows into the

Above, pub sessions – there’s always music somewhere in Galway; Peco McLoughlin on guitar, and top, slate craftsman Daithí O’Gorman.

Splurge Having featured rather ostentatiously in last year’s hit movie, The Guard, the city’s designer-driven g Hotel continues to thrive almost six years after opening. Great service, cool design, but it’ll cost you. (From €190pps for two-night B&B/one dinner; Wellpark, Dublin Road, 091 865 200; theghotel.ie) midprice If you’re looking to combine a modicum of leisure with some business (or, indeed, vice versa), look no further than radisson Blu galway. Typically smart design interconnects with all you’ll need in a city centre hotel.

(From €135 for a double room with breakfast; Lough Atalia Road, 091 538 300; radissonhotelgalway.com.)

Budget Nestled on the banks of the River Corrib, the Heron’s rest is an award-winning B&B that fuses contemporary chic with an eightoption breakfast sourced from local organic/artisan food producers.

(From €65pp; 16a The Longwalk, 091 539 574; theheronsrest.com)

GALWAY MUSIC Is there such a thing as Galway music? Best leave that question for the academics to answer, but if you’re looking for a particular type of boisterousness that informs as much as it entertains, look no further than bands such as The Saw Doctors, The Walls and The Kanyu Tree, and venues such as Róisín Dubh, which is the undisputed best live music venue in the city, county and province.

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for adults, teens, kids & toddlers

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SUMMER IN GALWAY

A DAY ON-BOARD

As Galway gears up to welcome the Volvo Ocean Race fleet when they cross the finishing line at the end of June, Liz Dwyer recalls her experience on board Sanya.

I

n the nine months since I had the privilege of a one-day sail with the crew of Sanya, one of the six competing yachts in the Volvo Ocean Race, both female vessels, Sanya and I, have been on our own turbulent voyages.

I discovered I was pregnant with my first child the morning I was due on-board the 70-foot racing machine in Alicante – just weeks before the race started – and knew little of the erratic hormonal seas that lay ahead. The Chinese-Irish backed Sanya and her crew were also in for a nine-month rollercoaster ride, as she began the gruelling race across 72,000km of the world’s most treacherous seas, via Cape Town in South Africa, Abu Dhabi, China, New Zealand, Brazil, Miami, Lisbon, and ultimately across the finishing line in Galway Bay. Despite having sailed since I was little more than a baby, stepping on-board was intimidating.

Hanging out on the guardrail with the crew, I learned about what lay ahead – from hurricanes to hallucinations, sleep deprivation to food shortages, hypothermia to pirate attacks, every day is a journey into the extreme.

Everything is overseen by Kiwi skipper, Mike Sanderson, who, at 34 years old, became the youngest skipper to win a Volvo Ocean Race in the 2005/2006 outing. Sanderson was just back on Sanya after being rushed to hospital a week before for an emergency appendicitis operation in Spain but, far from playing the martyr card, he was all about maintaining his crew’s morale: “Keeping your emotions under control is key to survival,” he said.

Sanderson’s burst appendix may have been an omen for what lay ahead as, since setting sail from Spain, team Sanya has been jinxed with equipment failures and encountered many minor to near-death incidents on every leg of the race.

Sanya is the oldest boat in the race and the cracks started to show, quite literally, on the leg from New Zealand to Itajaí in March, when the yacht’s

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rudder and hull were so badly battered by the seas, water burst through and the crew had to do an emergency patch-up job on the hull.

The yacht retired to New Zealand from this the crucial fifth leg of the race, before being shipped to Savannah in the US for repairs.

Sanya finally managed to return to the race in Miami, albeit in last position, and the Volvo fleet is currently racing to Lisbon and then onto the home stretch from Lorient in France to Ireland. “Galway is always the best stopover by far, and that’s every team’s opinion not just ours,” says Richard Mason, the team’s watch captain, “It just has that innate sense of fun and mischief, I don’t think we left The Quays bar the last time and I can only imagine the madness this year.”

Mason is right; madness is certainly on the cards, as are cultural delights. Between June 30 and July 8 most of the laid-on activity will centre on the purpose-built Race Village in the harbour where the Volvo fleet will be based.

The six yachts will be out at sea racing against each other daily to score some final points. On dry land there will be food, music and marine expos, as well as team pavilions and plenty of entertainment for children. The festival is set to attract an estimated 700,000 visitors and the craic, as you can imagine, will be mighty.

I’ll be crossing my own finishing line to the maternity ward by then so, if you’re heading to Galway, be sure to have a Guinness for me and set yourself up on a bar stool in The Quays if you want to hear a few war stories from the Sanya crew.

For details on the sailing, cultural and culinary events happening in Galway Volvo Race Festival from June 30 to July 8: letsdoitglobal.com.

spotlight, the onus of responsibility, he says, alters radically.

“It’s a different kind of reality.

What was great is that I knew not only how the festival worked, but how it was so respected and affectionately held in the heart and mind of Galway. This is very important – you can’t buy that sense of ownership. Galway people play such an important part in what we do.”

While over a quarter of the audience of 150,000 or so each year, reveals Fahy, constitutes international visitors, GAF enjoys such a level of loyal and repeat national customers that it’s no surprise other arts events look on in envy and attempt to replicate some of the “vibe of the Tribes”.

“Galway is a lovely, intimate place where people can get around on foot very easily, so the city frames the festival very well,” Fahy says. “I mean, if you were for some reason dropped into the city from Mars, and landed on Quay

DRINK AT ...

It isn’t an idle boast to state that you’ll never be stuck for a drink in Galway, but two of the best pubs you’ll ever walk into are Tigh Neachtain (at the corner of Cross Street and Quay Street), which is, by this stage, one of the bestknown hostelries in Ireland. Expect to mingle with all manner of people in close confines. Best night to go?

Impossible to answer, but Sunday nights feature brilliant impromptu traditional music sessions. Close by is The Quays (Quay Street), which is effortlessly one of the most beautiful pubs in the country, let alone the region. Some of the interior – notably stained glass and gothic arches – was imported from a French medieval chapel.

Galway faces, clockwise from top left, French visitor, Bèlinda Benbourenane; Daniel Rosen, the doughnut man; Agata Lisik, a barmaid at Tigh Neachtain; and stall stalwart, John O’Connor.

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Summer in galway

FiVe Key eVentS

1

muSiC lisa Hannigan/James Vincent mcmorrow Lisa Hannigan is slowly but surely branching out – dividing her time between the US and Europe as she promotes her latest album, Passenger. James Vincent McMorrow, meanwhile, is basking in the glory of his debut album, Early in the Morning. Festival Big Top, Thursday, July 26; galwayartsfestival.com. tHeatre Druidmurphy – Plays by tom murphy DruidMurphy features three of playwright Tom Murphy’s most acclaimed works: Famine, Conversations on a Homecoming and A Whistle in the Dark. You can experience all three plays over the course of a day. Tickets for the evening performances are priced from €18, and for the three plays from €50.

Town Hall Theatre, July 23-28; druid.ie.

Cinema Film Fleadh The Fleadh will host more than 20 world premières of Irish features/documentaries, the best of world cinema and more than 150 screenings of new Irish shorts and animations. Highlights include director/writer Lenny Abrahamson’s new feature, What Richard Did, and a tribute to director/writer Terry Gilliam that will include screenings and a masterclass. Various venues, July 10-15; galwayfilmfleadh.com.

ViSual art aBSOlut Festival gallery At this new temporary art space, works featured include two of the most powerful portfolios from George Grosz, one of the greatest satirical artists of the 20th century; a joint exhibition by Brian Maguire and Joe Comerford; and new solo exhibitions from Jennifer Cunningham and Mick O’Dea. tHeatre the great goat Bubble by Julian gough A comedy about the property boom. The story is told through the eyes of an African economist who meets another character in 1986 in Ballinasloe train station (both are waiting to travel to Dublin to attend the opening of the Irish Financial Services Centre) ... Druid Theatre, July 16-29.

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3

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Street blindfolded, you’d still 10-15 and dovetails perfectly into get a sense that there was GAF as a companion piece of liSa something significantly arts programming) and the Hannigan’S cultural going on. That arrival along the Corrib galway sense gets into the shores this summer of the “I always head for Ard Bia at the fabric of the city – and impressive Volvo Ocean Spanish Arch. In fact, I have been it’s not just cultural.

Yacht Race, and you’ve known to go there twice in one day.

It’s also social, got yourself one helluva economical, each of reason to visit.

Another favourite place is Kai, around which are important “I love coming to the corner from the music venue, Róisín players in Galway.”

Galway,” says Irish Dubh. Myself and some of the band Of course, anyone singer-songwriter Lisa went there for breakfast recently, who has visited the Hannigan, who is one and decided it was the best festival at any point in its of this year’s GAF Big we’d ever had.” illustrious history will know Top headliners. “There are that it has cleverly (strategically, such great people and the best perhaps?) placed the word “art” into food and fun to be had. The last the word “party”. Galway, then, few times I’ve been at the festival is as much about appreciation as it’s been to play in the Róisín celebration. Factor in the Galway Dubh – that’s a great venue, with Film Fleadh (which runs from July a notoriously good audience.”

LOUIS FITZGERALD HOSPITALITY City Centre Heritage Pubs Dublin & Galway

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Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly destroyed in the 1916 rising. Today you can still enjoy some of the original features, high dome ceilings and hand crafted stone, but now complimented with plush leather seats and dramatic chandeliers. Superb food served daily.

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Traditional Irish hospitality awaits you in the Arlington Hotels. Boasting 200 Bedrooms in the Heart of the City. Experience the true Dublin and stay with us in these Iconic Locations.

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9 South Anne, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6778312 Situated off Dublin’s premier shopping street, Grafton Street. This is one of the finest, if not the finest, Victorian pub in Dublin. Although it is unchanged since 19th century, this is not a museum, it is a buzzing vibrant pub with a fantastic atmosphere and a special place in the heart of Dubliners. This is a must see.

THE STAGS HEAD 1 Dame Court, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 6793687

Established in the 1700’s, it was last renovated in 1895 and was the first pub in Dublin to change from gas lighting to electricity. A favourite haunt for those in the literary world including Joyce and Kavanagh over the years.

Today it still has the authentic feel of a real Dublin pub.

THE QUAYS

11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 6713922 The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of Temple Bar is one of Dublin’s liveliest pubs with a great mix of locals and tourists. Live Irish Traditional Music everyday makes the pub a magnet for those of us looking for a bit of craic and with a restaurant on the first floor.

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Quay Street, Galway Tel: 091 568347 The Quays, situated in the heart of Galway city and established in the 1600’s, it has kept the charm which gained it an international reputation for its traditional Irish music sessions.

Traditional Irish fare, the best of music and the 'craic' are the order of the day.

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AN POITIN STIL

JOELS RESTAURANT

Award winning thatched Restaurant & Bar with its own Stil and quirky museum. An Poitin Stil is one of Ireland’s Most Famous Pubs.

Modern and bright, Joels is one of Dublin’s livliest dining venues, with an extensive menu catering for almost every taste.

Rathcoole, Co. Dublin Tel: 01 4589244

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A warm welcome awaits you from all the staff at the Louis Fitzgerald Group

www.louisfitzgerald.com

Summer in galway

eaT aT ...

illustration by anne smith

Aoibheann McNamara of Ard Bia at Nimmo’s

Hannigan is on the money with all she says; for a good two weeks, Galway is the country’s friendliest city. Walking along the city’s streets day or night is one of life’s mellow pleasures, as you never know what arty-party sight you might come across, or which of the festival’s lineup guests will present themselves in front of you in a pub or restaurant.

Each year festival goers come to see a wide range of shows that embrace all aspects of the arts – literature, music, theatre, poetry, comedy, visual art, dance, children’s events, street art – and it is GAF’s all-inclusiveness that keeps bringing people back again and again. From the Festival Big Top to the small side streets, from the acclaimed Macnas Festival Parade to the admired side shows, Galway has it all: a vibrant, genuine cultural identity, an expertly curated, non-intimidating series of arts events, and a spirit that says anything is possible.

“Back about 40 years ago,” says Fahy, “Galway wouldn’t have been very well provided for in terms of 58 |

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arts infrastructure, so the festival had to think imaginatively, which meant using what was there – streets, old buildings, warehouses and so on. So it developed a reputation for adapting spaces creatively. We have some great venues now, but my predecessors and I have continued that adaptive process. We also acquired a Big Top in 2006, and the beauty of that is it’s placed in the heart of the city, right on the banks of the River Corrib, beside the Catholic cathedral.”

“I’m really looking forward to the gig,” says Lisa Hannigan of her show with James Vincent McMorrow, another of Ireland’s rising stars. “I love James’s music, and he and his band are wonderful in a live setting.

I’ll also prepare for a dance off, because, well, you never know ...”

Lisa Hannigan? The Galway Arts Festival? A dance off? Don’t say you haven’t been given plenty of notice.

For more information, see galwaytourism.ie; galwayartsfestival.com; galwayfilmfleadh.com

Previous page, clockwise from top, spectacular feats from les Philibulistes at last year’s GaF; singer lisa hannigan, headline act for 2012; and the big top.

According to the owners, the menu at aniar is dictated by the seasons.

Such a terroir approach (in essence, the gathering of natural influences that give food a sense of place) has positioned aniar at the top of the foodie chain. Starters from €8.50, mains from €19.50, desserts from €8.50. (53 Lower Dominick Street, 091 535 947; aniarrestaurant.ie) Just over four years ago, ard Bia at nimmo’s used to be two separate Galway foodie institutions, but – in what seems a very pragmatic business move – the establishments joined together to offer two quite distinct services. Result? An airy, arty dining room overlooking the Corrib River.

Starters from €6, mains from €16, desserts from €6. (Spanish Arch, Long Walk, 091 561 114; ardbia.com)

Kai Café

One of the newer kids on the Galway block, Kai Café and restaurant, has an ever-changing menu that always seems to appeal. If eclectic food in retro/funky surroundings is your thing (starters, from €7, might include brown-sugarcured mallard and pomegranate molasses; with mains, from €17.50, such as wild pheasant, chestnut Parmesan and barley risotto; desserts, from €6.50, eg, whiskey and manuka affogato, ice cream and ginger cakes), then step right in. (Sea Road, 091 526 003; kaicaferestaurant.com)

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Boston for kids

A golden oldie – Boston Children’s Museum was the world’s first for kids and still challenges and thrills from the minute you arrive.

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Happy Families

Boston with kids? Mother of four, Laura George knows the importance of planning a day’s sightseeing when children are involved. She shares her survival guide. Photographs by Peter Matthews.

BOSTON FOR KIDS

T

here is arguably no better city on Earth for children (and their parents) than Boston. It’s walkable and compact – some would even say small-scale. On any given day, it seems like everyone in The Public Garden downtown is wielding a state-of-the-art jogging pram or keeping a schoolchild stoked with bread to feed the ducks. The nearest playground is a park away on The Common but who needs a slide when there are giant swan pedalboats to be ridden, brass ducks to leapfrog and ornamental plantings to hide amongst?

To make the most of attractions

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and minimise hassle, establish a base camp within striking distance of The Public Garden and The Common or on the Waterfront.

From any of these central locations you’ll be able to jump on the T, Boston’s civilised over/underground mass transit system, or a sightseeing trolley and/or walk to everything.

BEST For a quick orientation, STROLLING it’s hard to beat the jolly The Southwest Corridor Duck Tour (book online Park was once earmarked as a bostonducktours.com) from three central locations. freeway, but Boston residents said Upcycled World War Two “No!” and today it’s one of the bestamphibians with comical loved summer walks in the city. Get conducktors take you on there on the Orange Line T (any a loop of all the key sights stop between Back Bay and neighbourhoods, from and Forest Hills).

Back Bay to Beacon Hill, Harvard to Quincy Market.

Great quack – the Duck Tour, top, and fun at The Public Garden, above.

BOSTON FOR KIDS

OUT OF TOWNERS

Sturbridge

of STURBRIDGE (an excellent stopping-off point halfway on the drive west to NYC) and PLYMOUTH PLANTATION (plimoth.org), an hour south on the way to Cape Cod. Both feature a lot of interactive exhibits and actors in period dress who demonstrate things like candle-making, basket weaving etc.

But somehow it doesn’t feel like a school trip as much as it might.

For teenagers, the outrageous Blue Man Group performs nightly at the CHARLES PLAYHOUSE (74 Warrenton Street, blueman.com).

Expect to become involved in the wildly creative, interactive theatre – paint, percussion and toilet roll are just some of the ingredients that make the show so memorable.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL MALYSZKO

Sometimes it’s a good idea to divide up a city break with a daytrip out of town. Rave reports come from those who have braved the 3D HAUNTED HOUSE (salem13ghosts. com) and SALEM WITCH MUSEUM (salemwitchmuseum.com), half an hour north of the city via the Rockport train at North Station.

Also popular are the historic villages

READING LIST MAKE WAY FOR DUCKLINGS by Robert McCloskey. This is the seminal Boston children’s classic, centered on a duck family who call The Public Garden home. Charming illustrations.

JOHNNY TREMAIN by Esther Forbes The perfect introduction to Revolutionary War History – a young patriot’s coming of age.

CARRY ON, MR BOWDITCH by Jean Lee Latham. A rollicking yarn in the vein of Hornblower.

THE WITCH OF BLACKBIRD POND

by Elizabeth George Speare The tale of a girl’s friendship with an accused witch on the run from Massachusetts.

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Above, interactive fun and games and, top, flying through the solar system at the Planetarium in the Museum of Science. Opposite, skeletons and more at the Harvard Museum of Natural History.

Befitting a “college town”, Boston is packed with educational attractions that build on the most playful, hands-on aspects of learning. In many respects, it’s the anti-Disney. But make no mistake, nor is it like a beautifully crafted wooden toy that’s passed over for the plastic gizmo every time. Boston is genuinely great fun – for all ages.

It’s no small wonder that the world’s first Children’s Museum (308 Congress Street, bostonchildrensmuseum.org) opened in this city in 1913 and has gone from strength to strength since.

Under the guidance of none other

than Dr Benjamin Spock’s son, Michael, it became an interactive experience and moved in 1979 to Fort Point Channel, just a short walk away from Quincy Market and Faneuil Hall (kiddie food paradise) and the New England Aquarium (1 ( Central Wharf, neag.org). The purposebuilt space here challenges and thrills from the minute you walk in. Kids climb up to the exhibits through a tangled, three-storey web of ropes, while adults are relegated to the stairs.

Once inside, there are fabulous troughs where you can blow bubbles as big as the average eight-yearold, a fully stocked art studio, an authentic Japanese teahouse that is a surreally calm oasis, outrageous tracks for racing marbles (and thereby learning about the physics of motion), a participatory theatre and a truly magical gift shop. Be sure to orchestrate your schedule so that you pitch up at Flour Bakery and Café (12 Farnsworth Street, flourbakery.com), just behind the museum, for award-winning sandwiches and baked goods. Its

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Kildare-born Dawn Morrissey is co-director of the Irish Film Festival in Boston and has lived in the city for 14 years, where she is constantly surprised by new bars, restaurants and outdoor spaces.

T

he one piece of advice I give all my many visitors is to hit the Rose Kennedy Greenway to sample the array of food trucks that convene in spring, summer and early autumn. My favourite has to be the Clover truck; I first experienced its food in the MIT area in 2008 and I have been hooked on its veggie offerings ever since. For meat lovers, Silk Road BBQ is right next to it on the Greenway and the ribs are divine.

For dessert, my two-year-old son loves cupcakes from Kickass, which also has a truck out there.

The Kickass bakery is in one of our other favourite haunts, Somerville’s Davis Square.

Davis Square, has had an onslaught of hip new bars and restaurants, including The Foundry on Elm, a brasserie that offers a great dinner and array of cocktails, while its sister bar next door, The Saloon, is a speakeasy with an impressive array of bourbon.

After lunch on The Greenway, it’s off for some culture at the Institute of Contemporary Art (icaboston.org). Not only is the architecture a sight to be seen and experienced, its collections are varied, updated frequently and always in the news.

If you feel like putting your toes in the sand on a sunny

afternoon, hop on one of the ferries from Long Wharf out to either Georges or Spectacle Island. The trip takes all of 25 minutes and you can swim off the beach of Spectacle or hike the hills of Georges to get a stunning view of the city.

On a summer evening there is no better place to be than The Pavilion, an outdoor live music venue also located on the waterfront. The line-up is pretty impressive from May to October and you are advised to get tickets in advance (livenation.com).

If you’re more in the mood for the bar scene, then you could do a lot worse than heading to River Gods in Cambridge’s Central Square. “The Gods” (as it is known) is an oasis of good tunes, great food, and a hip crowd. It is also child friendly earlier in the evening so we tend to have dinner with our little guy, have our sitter pick him up, then catch some beats while we relax with a mixed drink.

If, after all that, you still have some energy, check out the club Estate. Located in The Alley on Boylston Street, it offers an array of hip music in a luxurious setting of baroque accents, over-size fireplaces and an expansive dance floor.

JUNE 2012

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BOSTON FOR KIDS

SLEEP AT...

BUDGET The perfect location, vast historic rooms, and friendly atmosphere of the College Club of Boston make it hard to beat.

Local designers renovated each of the eleven rooms in 2008 to great effect and rooms are large enough to accommodate extra beds ($20 per bed, per night), which is particularly convenient for those travelling with children. Hall bathrooms are shared between two rooms. (Rates from $119, 44 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, 001 617 536 9510; thecollegeclubofboston.com) MID-PRICE The former headquarters of the Boston Police Department is bound to be ideally located downtown but The Doyle Collection’s Back Bay Hotel (formerly Jury’s) is also child-friendly with super cheerful staff, inter-connecting rooms and great kids’ menus.

Jetlagged visitors will appreciate complimentary coffee and tea in the lobby from 6.30am if they don’t want the in-room Nespresso machine to wake everyone else up. NB: rollaway beds ($20 per night) can only be accommodated in Superior rooms. (Rates from $269, 350 Stuart Street, Boston, 001 617 266 7200; doylecollection.com) SPLURGE Four Seasons Hotel has everything to keep the kids, and their parents, happy – an indoor pool, a dedicated kids’ “koncierge”, a full programme of complimentary activities from Saturday cookie baking classes to outdoor games and movies. There are even pint-sized dressing gowns and slippers. Check out the KidKation packages which include 50 per cent off a second room, toys and an in-room visit from an old-fashioned ice cream cart.

Babysitting available with three day’s notice. (Rates from $ 595, 200 Boylston Street, Boston, 001 617 338 4400; fourseasons. com/boston)

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Boston cream pie is a must.

On the way back to town from the museum, the Boston Tea Party Ship (Congress Street Bridge, bostonteapartyship.com) is a history lesson in miniature. Small enough to walk around in half an hour, it is beautifully restored and the events that led to the start of the American Revolution are well dramatised by actors in costume or easy to explain with plenty of props on hand (bales of tea are provided for chucking into the harbour at will).

For younger children, this stop is a good alternative to stomping The Freedom Trail in its entirety. As well-intentioned as adults might be, little feet can seldom go the full distance of 16 significant historic sites marked out by a brick path through the city.

Having learnt the hard way, I

Top, leave a day aside for the New England Aquarium and a whale watching expedition. Above, living history on the Freedom Trail where costumed actors re-enact the past.

can advise that rationing sightseeing is always a good strategy for family holidays.

The most ground gets covered with a steady approach that focuses on one anchor event per day. The boxes will all be ticked eventually but no one will lose their sanity. With that in mind, leave a day aside for the New England Aquarium, its IMAX theatre and its performing seals, with a side trip Whale Watching (departs from Long Wharf, bostonharborcruises.com), and another for The Museum of Science (1 Science Park, mos. org), which is one of the best

inal ney of the human species from its orig Cirque du Soleil’s Totem traces the jour to fly … witness the spectacular amphibian state to its ultimate desire ustrial Park. Runs June 10 to July 1, transformation at the Boston Marine Ind usoleil.com tickets from $48.50 for adults; cirqued

CAFE_MEXICANA_CARA_QP.ai 1 02/05/2012 11:52

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Il Posto Italian Food & Wine

2 Course Lunch €16 / 2 Course Pre Theatre €20 Open Monday-Saturday After dinner ask Susannah for your complimentary liqueur coffee!

10 St. Stephens Green. Dublin 2 : Tel 01 6794769 www.ilpostorestuarant.com

BOSTON FOR KIDS

EAT AT ...

ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS JUDGE/ CHRISJUDGE.COM

Remember portions everywhere are huge – either order a children’s portion or share. Most places will accommodate children cheerfully but the following are some of our family favourites.

Flour Bakery

in the world. Groups of ten or more can spend a night in the museum under the watchful gaze of a T Rex. Reserve at least two months in advance for the chance to participate in special activities, watch an IMAX movie and explore exhibits in the dark for just $50 per person, including breakfast. Alternatively, if you opt for a daytime visit and bribery is one of your more effective parenting tools, the museum gift shop is incredible and it’s a short walk from here to Abercrombie & Fitch at the CambridgeSide Galleria mall (100 CambridgeSide Place, cambridgesidegalleria.com), which also has an Old Navy and American Eagle.

Across the Charles River from Boston, in Cambridge, the quirky Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology (11 Divinity Avenue) and the Harvard Museum of Natural History (26 Oxford Street) are also worth a trip – together they’re like being inside a bumper issue of National Geographic. Double up with a walk through Harvard Yard, a sandwich in Harvard Square and an ice cream at JP Licks (1312 Massachusetts Ave) or Ben & Jerry’s (36 JFK Street). The fact that the former embeds Oreos in organic chocolate rather than vanilla usually wins out.

If you aren’t brave enough to bite off a city-only holiday en famille, be sure to consider using Boston as a bookend for a vacation on The Cape or elsewhere in New England.

It seems everyone who dips a toe in the proverbial water comes back looking for more – no matter what their age.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston daily.

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Flour Bakery (12 Farnsworth Street, Fort Point Channel and 1595 Washington Street, South End and 190 Massachusetts Avenue, Central Square, Cambridge, flourbakery.com) Figs (42 Charles Street) Get a taste of Beacon Hill and gourmet pizza (don’t miss the signature fig chutney, blue cheese and prosciutto number) at a neighbourhood stalwart.

No Name (15½ Fish Pier Lane, nonamerestaurant.com) Basics such as Maine lobster, New England clam chowder and calamari in nononsense simplicity. Back in the day, you had to BYOB but now you can get a Sam Adams on tap, plonk, and cocktails.

Quincy Market (Quincy Market Colonnade) Fried dough.

Chocolate chip mini cookies.

Foot-long hot dogs.

Souvlaki. Clam chowder.

Ribs. Fried oysters.

Sushi. Bagels. Pizza.

Gelati … If they are old enough, give everyone an allowance and free rein to mix and match cuisines, then meet up in the central hall for a feeding frenzy. Avoid peak times if possible.

PETERS

BARS & RESTAURANTS

THE MUCKY DUCK

Celbridge, Co. Kildare 01 6288340 / muckyduck.ie

Situated in the heart of Celbridge, Co. Kildare Guinness Time began here in the Guinness family home with the birth of Arthur Guinness in 1725. So began a wonderful piece of Irish history. With that heritage it's no surprise that the Mucky Duck has earned a reputation for great food and drink. A must visit for fans of the "Black Stuff "!

THE COUNTY CLUB

Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8259220 / countyclub.ie

Located less than 30 minutes from Dublin city centre The County Club has long been a favourite with customers looking for great f ood in comfortable surroundings. The County Club's daily carvery is a particular favourite while we are also renowned for our wonderful Irish steaks.

AN SIBIN

Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8250556 / sibin.ie With it's traditional thatched roof An Sibin is a landmark in the heart of the village of Dunshaughlin. A blend of new world com comfort and age old tradition serving breakfast, lunch and dinner while also the perfect venue for parties and great nights out.

STEAK ON THE STONE

Our signature Steak on the Stone special is a must have, a unique dining experience which is available on all our a la carte menus.

CARBERRYS

Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8240133 / carberrys.ie Summer 2012 promises to be a bumper period for sports fans so Carberry's is the place to be to sample a all the atmosphere while also enjoying the summer days in our outdoor pavilion.

For show & shuttle bus from city centre.

Now booking for 2012 & 2013

O’FLAHERTYS / BRADY’S BAR Navan, Co. Meath 046 9022810 / oflahertys.ie Whether you visit O'Flaherty's for our delicious carvery, a night out with friends or to catch live sport on our big sc screens you are sure to have a memorable time and why not have a nightcap around the roaring fire in Brady's Bar! Sláinte.

THE WILTON Cork City

021 4344454 / www.wiltonpub.ie Long established on Leeside with fine food served all day in the lounge bar and upstairs in our Loft Restaurant.

The Wilton is a must on your next visit W to Cork. Don't forget to leave room for our famous homemade, brown bread ice cream!

Visit us Online

One of Dublin’s Top 10 Get the free App

STOCKHOLM

This page, a guard at the Royal Palace, Stockholm, opposite, a tranquil view over the River Norrstrรถm.

70 | 70 | February/March june june2012 2012 2012

Stockholm Syndrome The Swedish capital captured Kate O’Dowd’s heart and mind (and wallet). She found food, fashion and the best hot chocolate in town. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

june 2012

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had never been to Stockholm before. Though, I’ve always been, shall we say, interested in (read: obsessed by) its inhabitants – an Acne store on every corner (Matsalen and Matbaren), Niklas Clockwise from left, fresh, bold dishes at and No. 42 chairs around every Ekstedt (Ekstedt), Pontus Frithiof Lux; inventive fare family’s dining table. Those were (Pontus!) and Fredrik Andersson at the kitchens of my imaginings. Oh, and perfect (Mistral) are local celebrities, Frantzén/Lindeberg; humans. Like most, design is what respected internationally and Kate O’Dowd on the foodie trail.

I first connected with Stockholm; swimming in Michelin stars. certainly not food. I’d had IKEA’s Time, I thought, for an education meatballs ... a stinky fermented beyond the surströmming (that fish sprang to mind; reindeer balls; stinky fish) … though there was lingonberries. But, apart from this some of that, too. With Himself (and Jamie Oliver’s doing of some along for a second opinion, we typical Swedish dishes in Jamie set about hopping Stockholm’s does... Spain, Italy, Sweden, islands – the city is made up of Morocco, Greece, France) many: Gamla Stan, Norrmalm, GETTING it wasn’t really on my Östermalm, Södermalm AROUND dining radar. and Kungsholmen being The Stockholm Card is a must.

But the food the most central – though For 190SEK (approx €21.50) per scene in Sweden, train-hopping was about day (based on a five-day card), you’ll Stockholm in as labourious as our get unlimited public transport use, free particular, is transport got. admission to museums and attractions; having a major Very high on the list free sightseeing tours; and discounted coming-of-age and of the city’s most talked prices on bus tours and boat trips. Buy suddenly things about restaurants is online for a 10 per cent discount; like pickled herring Frantzén/Lindeberg (Lilla are curiously trendy.

Nygatan 21, 0046 820 8580; visitstockholm.com/en/ Stars of the Stockholm frantzen-lindeberg.com), on a stockholmcard restaurant scene, such historic, cobbled street in Gamla as Mathias Dahlgren Stan, so here was our first port of 72 |

JUNE 2012

call. Open since 2008, it already has two Michelin stars and was ranked 57 in the 2011 World’s Best Restaurant Awards, as well as taking the One to Watch spot. The fare is extremely inventive, with nods to molecular gastronomy, but executed in a manner that aims to demystify food rather than serving up magic tricks. Its young owners, Björn Frantzén and Daniel Lindeberg, are passionate about where their ingredients come from, so when the dough for the bread we were about to eat with dinner was brought to our table to prove, it wasn’t down to showing off, “I think our customers appreciate the honesty,” says Lindeberg. “We have nothing to hide – we want them to see how fresh everything is.” Dishes such as raw halibut with cream of duchess crab, horseradish, lemon zest and lump roe; and deep-fried potatoes, with sour cream and bleak roe, quite simply, blew our minds.

Another food revolutionary we wanted to experience was Henrik Norström, owner of Lux (Primusgatan 116, 0046 8619 0190; luxstockholm.com), a chic eatery (with the obligatory Michelin star) located in the canteen of an old Electrolux factory. Fifteen minutes from the centre of town (on the leafy residential island of Lilla Essingen), Lux buzzes with “suits” on lengthy business lunches and chic couples who sip cocktails after their dinner is done. The food is fresh and bold – our starter of smoked reindeer with morels, shitake mushrooms and watercress cream and a celery and asparagus roll, is fairly indicative of

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STOCKHOLM

THE DISTRICTS

S

tockholm is made up of 14 islands, connected by 57 bridges, each island (generally) forming a natural district. GAMLA STAN is the Old Town, the tourist hub and the chocolate-box-pretty image of Stockholm that graces postcards – all winding cobbled streets, Renaissance churches and romantic squares.

Wander its streets early in the morning (before the throngs arrive).

To the east is SKEPPSHOLMEN – home to the museums of modern art (modernamuseet.se) and architecture (arkitekturmuseet.se), the gallery of photography (fotografinshus.se) and the Svensk Form design centre (svenskform.se), it’s virtually all your Stockholm museum-going in one neat package. DJURGÅRDEN, the city’s favourite green space, can be accessed by vintage tram via the beautiful Strandvågan, or on a ferry from Slussen. While ambling along its pretty paths, through woods and gardens, is enough to warrant the trip, both the Vasa museum (vasamuseet.se), which holds an awe-inspiring 17th century warship, and the Skansen outdoor folk museum (skansen.se) are well worth donating time to.

South to SÖDERMALM and you enter what was once the city’s poorest district, but is now one of its most desirable residential areas. Sit in one of the cool cafés and watch beautiful young families and trendy twenty-somethings out and about, or hit Hornstull Strand’s famous market, Street (streetinstockholm.se). ÖSTERMALM and NORRMALM share an island, the former being the most up-market area in town – all A-list hangouts, international fashion flagships and majestic homes – while the latter is the business district, housing the mammoth culture centre, Kulturhuset (kulturhuset.stockholm.se), in the midst of mainstream shopping streets.

KUNGSHOLMEN is little shouted about but is becoming increasingly popular with artists and loft-living urbanites escaping the rocketing rents of Östermalm and Södermalm – the vibe is under-the-radar cool, with little galleries and trendy restaurants tucked away where you’d least expect.

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Above, the sought-after Södermalm area, once the city’s poorest district, and right, Restaurang AG, where wall-towall coolsters sip cocktails at weekends.

Opposite, the chocolate-box prettiness of Gamla Stan.

how the rest of the menu goes, and these flavours were meltingly tender, gently smoky and tasting of the earth.

As well as Lux, another of Norström’s offerings (which he runs with Peter Johansson) is B.A.R. (Blasieholmsgatan 4A, 0046 861 15 335; restaurangbar.se), a lower-key option serving mostly fish and seafood, with added cool and located in Norrmalm’s business district. Simple and atmospheric, this was actually one of our favourite meals in Stockholm – super fresh grilled fish (a local variety whose name I could neither pronounce nor remember), served with the most comforting risotto and roasted broccoli with Parmesan.

Even slap-bang in the middle of the lunchtime rush, the service was warm and efficient, and required a cosy snuggling together at the bar (thankfully, just the two of us).

Of a similar vibe to B.A.R., but hitting that achingly cool key much harder, is Restaurang AG (Kronobergsgatan 37, 0046 841 068

100; restaurangag.se), restaurangag.se in the up-and-coming (in that still-raw East London way) Kungsholmen.

Almost hidden, AG is a few floors up a winding, vertiginous staircase that wouldn’t feel out of place in a Tube station. Once you get there, you’re greeted by a wall of dryageing meat (its specialty) and then led on to a very large dining room, industrial in feel. The place is wallto-wall coolsters, sipping cocktails at the bar or eating in lively groups, especially at weekends. “We became trendy overnight, I’m not sure why,” says co-owner Klas Ljungqvist. “But then it’s never untrendy to cook

june 2012

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AL FRESCO

undoubtedly the Nytorget Urban good food.” Himself and I lingered After a stroll Deli (Nytorget 4, 0046 859 909 after our food, feeling hipper just by in Djurgården, a tea-break at 180; urbandeli.org), a bar, café, being there – and possibly afraid to Rosendals Kafé is deli and food market in one. This move, after the hefty steaks we had recommended. place has cool seeping from the just devoured. sugar bowls – it makes Fallon & But, of course, food is not the Byrne (Dublin’s closest counterpart only reason that Stockholm is and actually pretty great) look like fabulous. It’s a city built for its a regional Tesco. Go for weekend people – not for the economy or for brunch for the best people-watching the political system, which in turn but be prepared to down a few makes it good for the economy and cocktails before your food arrives – the political system. It’s laid out to oh, how I despaired. make life better – you want a day In Gamla Stan, hot chocolate is of culture? Go to Skeppsholmen.

You want to escape to nature? big, year ’round. Lots of places do it Go to Ekoparken. The old well but the best we found (and trusty story that Swedes are our test group was sizeable) transfer so into interior design was at Chokladkoppen The Arlanda Express from the because they never (Stortorget, 0046 820 3170; airport may seem pricey, at 325SEK leave their houses is chokladkoppen.se), a cosy codswallop. They’re little place on the most (approx €37) for a weekend return (when all out and about, picturesque of squares. booked online; if you buy once you get all the time. In fact, Bowls of the stuff are there, it’s more like 490SEK/€55), but it’s they are the second served here, creamy and cheaper than a taxi and quicker; getting biggest consumers chocolaty in the right you to T Centralen in 20 minutes, in of coffee in the world balance, with syrup on cool comfort. Totally worth it, in my (the Finnish are the top for extra naughtiness. book; arlandaexpress.com biggest; who knew!) and While no trip to fika (taking a coffee break) Djurgården would be is a major social pastime. So complete without a teacafés are many and mostly very break in Rosendals Trädgård good, ranging from the elegantly (Rosendalsterrassen 12, 0046 854 French in style to more rustically 581 270; rosendalstradgard.se), Swedish, all sourdough buns and a gorgeous public garden beside sugary spices. Södermalm is full Rosendals Palace where plants and of trendy joints with tables outside vegetables are grown to practise where the hipsters can smoke their and educate on biodynamic rollies. And the best of these is agriculture – it has an adorable 76 |

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PARK LIFE The European Green Capital for 2010, Stockholm is twothirds greenbelt and waterway. So it’s not surprising that once the snow thaws, Stockholmers young and old leap from their egg chairs to enjoy the privilege of living in a modern city with such easy access to natural beauty. To boot, EKOPARKEN is the world’s only urban national park, stretching 14km from Ulriksdals Slottet in the north, to DJURGÄRDEN and FJÄDERHOLMARNA in the south. It’s a haven for rare birds and other wildlife and its network of cycling paths, walking tracks (see stockholmtown.se for routes) and kayak and pedal-boat rentals, make it ever popular in summer months. Cafés move outdoors (MÄLARPAVILJONGEN on Norr Mälarstrand is a particular favourite) and both the bigger parks, and smaller residential squares come to life. Rent a bicycle from one of the SVD STOCKHOLM CITY BIKE stands to see the city, with the freedom to leave it in the part of town that suits (a three-day pass is 165SEK, approx €18.50; citybikes.se).

WATERWORKS The cleanliness of the water around Stockholm is a topic of much pride. Due to stringent environmental laws (and lax fishing ones), fishing for trout and salmon in the city centre is a common sight. Swimming, too, is popular in summer – the best places to go for a dip are NORR MÄLARSTRAND (the southern edge of Kungsholmen); the sandy beach on LANGHOLMEN (the small park island to the northwest of Södermalm); and, if you’re feeling adventurous, just in front of STADHUSET (City Hall). If you’d rather enjoy the water from a drier position, you can rent a dinghy, canoe or pedalboat at DJURGÄRDSBRON BRIDGE. Or, to look less like a tourist, choose a kayak – Stockholm’s kayak club get best reviews (kafekajak.se) – perfect for those interested in heading east to the archipelago, home to a diverse selection of migratory birds and ... moose.

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Brasserie Sixty6 is a must-visit restaurant on South Great George’s Street, one of Dublin’s coolest streets, mixing a great atmosphere with great food. We find out more.

A

t Brasserie Sixty6, the atmosphere may be light and buzzy, but they take their food seriously. Very seriously. A team of expert chefs use only the fi nest ingredients, sourced locally from the most reputable butchers, fishmongers, green grocers, artisan bakers, and internationally from carefully sourced specialist food suppliers, to create an Irish/European menu that’s bursting with flavour, and of the highest possible quality. Everything is cooked to order, making for a fresh, delicious experience every time.

Brunch at Brasserie Sixty6 is almost an institution now among the style savvy on Saturdays and Sundays, with perennial favourites like Eggs Benedict and Eggs Florentine, alongside mouth-watering dishes like lemon ricotta pancake served with crème fraiche, strawberries and maple syrup drizzle – divine. On Sundays, you can even enjoy live classical jazz until 3.30pm, making for a fabulous fi nish to your weekend.

Lunch can be either lazy or swift , depending on your schedule, and is

served Monday – Friday from 12pm 5pm, at very reasonable prices, while a kids menu is sure to keep the little ones happy too. At dinner time, choose from a great value set menu, a pre-theatre menu or go à la carte. Th ink pan-fried scallops with the Sixy6 Surf & Turf; or the more adventurous might opt for a suckling pig platter, a must-try for large groups (one week’s notice required). Alternatively, the rotisserie chicken is the restaurant’s signature dish. Brasserie Sixty6 also caters well for vegetarians, with dishes like baby vegetable tagine served with spicy cous cous and spinach and ricotta tortellini.

You’re sure to love the buzz of this busy restaurant, but why not get even more into the swing of things with a fabulous cocktail, designed by Brasserie Sixty6’s in-house mixologist. Our favourite’s a Gin Garden, or you could try an old-school Mojito, or even their take on one of the classics – with a twist of course.

If you’re shopping or sight-seeing in Dublin city centre, Brasserie Sixty6 is the perfect pit-stop for delicious food and a great atmosphere – book your table now.

Brasserie Sixty6, 66-67 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2, 01 400 5878, bookings@brasseriesixty6.com. www.brasseriesixty6.com JUNE 2012

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plant shop, wholesome vegetable shop and (best of all) bakery/café, with the most gorgeously fresh cakes that we tasted on the trip.

Next order of business (after the cake – wise): those perfect humans. There’s certainly a Swedish stereotype, dressed faultlessly in minimalist threads; naturally tan, richly blonde, athletically slim. At first, I was glad to discover that this was just that – a stereotype – but as the days passed and I ventured into ever trendier parts of town, I realised that yes, the majority of Stockholmers are just average folk, but that the percentage of Super Stylish is significantly higher than in other cities and that the level of Super Stylishness is virtually unrivalled. One must be able to purchase this aesthetic, I thought.

And though my funds were much depleted (because my stomach was much expanded), I thought I’d better look, at least. For research purposes, you understand – I left Himself to the Vasa museum, for this part.

First up Acne, of course.

Sweden’s fashion export of the moment, Acne started as a denim brand and has since expanded into a full fashion label that’s somewhere between high street and ready-to-wear (price and otherwise). Its flagship is in the former Kreditbanken building (Norrmalmstorg 2, 0046 861 16 411; acnestudios. com), where the term Stockholm syndrome was coined, on the lovely Norrmalmstorg Square – the famous vaults now house an impressive denim section. It was all I expected it would be; the best and brightest from their spring collection – all the key pieces in more colours than I thought existed.

Pity my daydream that prices would be halved on home turf was so pie in the sky. However, around the corner at Cos (Biblioteksgatan 3, 0046 854 501 050; cosstores.com) – another flagship of a successful Swedish export (resolutely high street, but with an expensive-seeming aesthetic) – I found respite. A diehard fan, this is the best Cos store I have been to, bar none. I got a little 78 |

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An effortlessly chic Stockholm native - but they do have the pick of fashion stores.

STAY AT ...

PARTY CENTRAL Scandic Grand Central opened late last year, arguably the coolest in the Scandic portfolio. Located in Norrmalm, a few minutes’ walk from T Centralen (the central station for buses, trains, subways and the Arlanda Airport Express), it’s the perfect vantage point for first-timers eager to venture all over the city.

The interior is grown-up, but playful. At night, the bar and restaurant buzz with hip revellers (guests and locals), there to catch performances by top DJs and musicians most weekend nights; rooms from €100 per night. (Kungsgatan 70, 0046 851 252 000; scandichotels.com)

Scandic Grand Central

HOME FROM HOME Ett Hem, Swedish for “at home”, is due to open around about now and looks like the kind of hotel you might never want to leave, regardless of what exploration beckons. A beautiful private home in chic Östermalm, it has just been renovated to take guests and offers rental by the room, the floor or the whole house. The feel is of luxury, but it’s not a luxury hotel, and given that you can borrow the car, help yourself from the fridge or take the dog for a walk, that’s for all the right reasons; rooms from €450 per night. (Sköldungagatan 2, 0046 820 0590; etthemstockholm.se) THOUGHTFUL SOLITUDE On the city’s museum island, Hotel Skeppsholmen is perfectly located for culture vultures and just a stroll (or ferry ride) from Gamla Stan, but finds itself in quiet peace come nighttime. In an 18th century naval building, the historic facade belies a light and airy, contemporary interior (it’s a Design Hotel, so you know what to expect), lively restaurant and bar; rooms from €246 per night. (Gröna gången 1, 0046 840 72 350; hotelskeppsholmen.com)

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STOCKHOLM

carried away; and yes, I did feel a little closer to the Super Stylish, but not much – they didn’t sell genes.

Perhaps it’s bottled? I thought. If so, it would be at Byredo (Mäster Samuelsgatan 6, 0046 852 502 610; byredo.com), a cult Swedish fragrance company with just 16 unisex scents at 1,400SEK (€140) per 100ml; each starkly different from the other with the intention that everyone will love at least one (and probably hate most of the others). I fell for Pulp, a figgy, bergamotty freshness; so unlike my usual rosy safety, yet somehow felt like me … or perhaps a new and improved Swedish version.

All in all, the shopping in Stockholm is pretty wonderful.

There’s an H&M on every corner (which is a little weird) and of course the usual tatty malls, around Norrmalm – though, the new shopping centre Mood (Norrlandsgatan 13; moodstockholm.se) is proving

very popular with hip locals, for stores like Stockholm Market and Rodebjer – but the highend is particularly well covered.

NK (Hamngatan 18-20, 0046 8762 8000; nk.se) is Stockholm’s Selfridges; the epitome of what a department store should be.

Six levels and 100 departments house all the international luxury stars as well as Sweden’s brightest.

Nathalie Schuterman (Birger

Södra Blasieholmskajen, where the classical architecture of the museum quarter meets the bustle of Stockholm’s business district.

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE Scottish-born Andrew Duncanson is co-owner of 20th-century design store Modernity (Sibyllegatan 6, 0046 820 8025; modernity.se) and has lived in Stockholm for 14 years. Here are some of his favourite things to do in the city.

FAVOURITE MUSEUM Stockholm has a wealth of good museums, such as the Museum of Modern Art and the National Museum, but I like Skansen (skansen.se), the world’s first open-air museum, which is like a Sweden in miniature. When the industrial revolution came to Sweden, the ethnologue Artur Hazelius decided to buy a typical building from each area of the country and move them to Stockholm. This could sound like Disneyland, but the museum was created at the turn of the last century so it feels authentic.

BUILDING This would have to be, morbidly enough, The Woodland Cemetery (skogskyrkogarden.se), designed by the master architects Gunnar Asplund and Sigurd Lewerentz and built over a long period, from 1915 to 1940. It is, as the name suggests, set in the most beautiful wood

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in the southern part of Stockholm. Oh, and it’s the last resting place of Greta Garbo.

ARCHITECT The best contemporary architect is Gert Wingårdh – really from Gothenburg, but he has a main office offi ce in Stockholm, so is a sort of honorary Stockholmer.

You’ll be greeted by one of his landmark buildings soon after arrival – he designed the flight control tower at Arlanda airport.

RESTAURANT My own favourite restaurant is not a design hangout, but is unpretentious, great for food and perfect for people watching – the bistro P.A. & Co. (Riddargatan 8, 0046 861 10 845; paco.se) near my store.

STROLL The best, by far, is around the island of Djurgården, where the museum Skansen is.

It is, of course, surrounded by water, peaceful and leafy, with a host of good museums and beautiful private villas to occupy the interest.

Jarlsgatan 5, 0046 861 16 201; nathalieschuterman.se) is a mini department store (or large boutique) with a faultless selection of women’s, men’s and children’s wear, in brands such as Chloe, Giambattista Valli and 3.1 Phillip Lim. Or simply saunter down chi-chi Östermalm’s Birger Jarlsgatan (Knightsbridge, without the hordes of tourists looking for Harrod’s), pressing your face up to the windows of Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta, Mulberry (and the rest), like a Dickensian orphan at a bakery shopfront … or me.

So, at the end of this exploration, did Stockholm give more than I expected? Heck, yes. I ate like Queen Silvia, fell in love with her subjects (and it’s not just a looks thing, they’re helpful and kind to a fault), and marvelled at how dreamlike city life can be. I didn’t come home with the wardrobe of my dreams – stupid empty bank account – but what did I care, I had something sparkly on my finger that hadn’t been there on the way over. The details are sacred but I will divulge that I said, “Yes!” and that Stockholm is an incredibly romantic city (and that we promised, while gazing out on the waterfront of Gamla Stan, that we’d return on our five-year anniversary). If all else fails and you’ve spent your savings in Nathalie Schuterman, but still don’t look like super-blogger Elin Kling, you can always eat yourself Swedish – I think I’ve just about managed it.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Stockholm on Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat.

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GALWAYARTS FESTIVAL 16 - 29 JULY 2012 An authentic Irish craft tradition for 35 years See how we make it, view and buy from our complete range of shapes and patterns. Watch the swans glide by in our riverside mill shop, where potters, bargains, great customer service and cups of tea are always at hand.

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LIVE THEATRE PERFORMANCE DAILY! MEDIEVAL AND TUDOR CHARACTERS IN SEASON See memorable characters go about their daily lives and bring history to life by bringing life to history in a Theatre Performance as part of the guided tour (see website for details). www.dalkeycastle.com Opening Times: Open all year round 6 days per week. Closed on Tuesdays.

Nicholas Mosse Irish Country Shop l Bennettsbridge, Co. Kilkenny l Ireland Tel: +353 (0) 56 7727505 Find us on

Or by online worldwide: www.nicholasmosse.com.

In the village of SANTA GERTRUDIS I found the heart of the island – the red earth, the mist in the morning, and horse riding late at night through moonlit fields of fig trees and oranges. It is an inspiring place.

Santa Gertrudis is also home to my favourite international bookshop, Libro Azul. (libro-azul-ibiza.com)

 IBIZAAAH.COM supplies more than just beautiful villa rentals, for me the places are some of the most serene I have ever stayed in, not least because of their unforgettable views. ibizaaah.com

An Insider’s Guide to

IBIZA

For a great view of the Ibizan sunset, CALA CONTA beach on the western side of the island is perfect. I tend to visit at the beginning and end of the season, when it is mostly empty and at its most calm.

It's still something of a clubbers' paradise, but Ibiza also has a lot to off offer er the less dancefloor-inclined. dancefloor-inclined.

Rachel Montague shows us around the island.  PASSION CAFÉ is my number one healthy port of call when on the move around the island. I love their use of premium, quality ingredients and imaginative flavour combinations – the ultimate soul food.

(Playa d'en Bossa, 0034 971 305 130; passion-ibiza.com)

 The original PACHA ... has to be seen and heard.

One of the island’s longestrunning club stalwarts, the club still attracts the world’s most lauded DJs. Even if you’ve long since hung up your clubbing clobber, Pacha should feature on your Ibiza itinerary.

(Avinguda del Vuit d'Agost, 0034 971 313 600; pacha.com) pacha.com  I love everything about BAMBUDDHA GROVE. East meets West under a canopy of bamboo and among carved stone statues. It is a temple of fun, to which the “in crowd” is drawn, to sip cocktails and party. (Santa Eulalia, 0034 971 197 510; bambuddha.com) JUNE 2012

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INSIDER’S GUIDE

 REVOLVER boutique has built a loyal, cult following and it’s easy to see why – its owners’ edgy, eclectic taste shines through a collection that attracts the fashion-forward like moths to a (deliciously tailored) flame. (Calle Bisbe Azara 1, 0034 971 318 939; revolveribiza.com)

 Wednesdays in Es Caná, or Saturdays in San Carlos, the HIPPY MARKETs are the most exciting treasure hunts on the island. If, like me, you love rummaging around market stalls, this is a truly unmissable experience.

 BLUE MARLIN is a stylish beach club in captivating Cala Jondal bay. During the day, this is a great place to chill with family – swimming, eating Asian food and enjoying the fresh sea air. By night, get your dancing shoes on as well-known DJs from around the globe spin hot tunes until the early hours. (Playa es Jondal, 0034 971 410 117; bluemarlinibiza.com)

 I get excited whenever I think of PLAYA DE S’ESTANYOL. The tiny cove, with its small, picturesque, fishermen’s huts and crystal blue waters, never disappoints. I love wading in the waters here.  I feel I should share one of the island’s best mobile hair and beauty secrets (since I'm in the business of fashion). I have the professional folks at SMACK IBIZA to thank for painting my face, tackling my mane, and waking my tired eyes recently after running from work to do a full-day photo shoot ... If I could squeeze them in, these guys would live in my handbag. It pays to let them do the hard work before a special night out. (0034 634 148 429; smackibiza.com)

island where IBIZA ROCKS If guitars are more your thing – on an Rocks almost all you hear is electronic music – then the Ibiza d artist of 2012, festival may be right up your alley. The most-streame Ed Sheeran, opens the season on June 6; ibizarocks.com

 The sandy beach at AGUAS BLANCAS is perfect for a swim and some tender loving care for your skin. I love to come here for the soft mud – it is famous for its cleansing properties and it really works, leaving your skin feeling soft as a baby's bottom!

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Ibiza on Wed and Sat.

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JUNE 2012

Rachel Montague, originally from London, first visited Ibiza in 2009 after a four-year stint in Dublin. As she remembers, “The moment I stepped off the plane in Ibiza I felt like I was home.

The island has an energy like no other place I’ve been. There is such a sense of fun and freedom on the island, a sense of getting away from your troubles and leaving the bad weather behind!”

The full-time model and dancer now spends most of her time on the island, the rest of which she spends travelling to furtherflung locations.

PHOTOGRAPH BY LILI FORBERG

MORE ABOUT RACHEL

All profits to are donated ’s ren Irish Child Charities

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BEING THERE

IN 48 HOURS

Athens

Ancient yet modern, Athens is as refreshingly contemporary as it is comfortably traditional.

Jane Foster takes us on an odyssey through its lively streets.

P

rotest marches, riot police and tear gas might be the most recent images you’ve seen from Athens but, despite Greece’s current economic turmoil, the capital remains a vibrant, scholarly and glamorous destination. Summer sees restaurants offer open-air dining on terraces lined with potted geraniums and draped with bougainvillea, while cocktail bars serve zingy mojitos to suntanned locals.

Meanwhile, the Greek Festival (June 8 to July 20; greekfestival.gr) stages worldclass concerts, theatre and ballet beneath the stars – this year’s line-up includes the Berliner Ensemble and the Perm Tchaikovsky Opera & Ballet Theatre. So, although many visitors whiz straight through the city and jump on a ferry to the glorious Greek islands, it more than warrants a couple of days’ stop-over.

SLEEP AT ….

More than just a modern city with a fabled history, Athens extends along a blissful stretch of coast.

Overlooking the glistening blue Aegean Sea, the five-star Arion Resort & Spa (0030 210 890 2000; arionresortathens.com) encompasses a sandy beach, luxurious spa, minimalist rooms, suites and bungalows (some with private infinity pools), and several gourmet restaurants, including Matsuhisa Athens, managed by famed Japanese chef Nobu Marsuhisa. It’s in Vouliagmeni, and runs a free daily shuttle service to the city centre (25km). Rooms from €260.

For a more urban vibe, New Hotel (0030 210 327 3200; yeshotels.gr), close to the Greek Parliament and Syntagma Square, opened in July 2011. The Brazilian Campana brothers were responsible for its design; renovating a 1950s building to produce this funky 79-room hotel with recycled furnishing, slick modern bathrooms and hi-tech lighting. A member of Design Hotels, it has a wellness centre and does a much-

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JUNE 2012

lauded Sunday brunch. Rooms from €175 (bookings made at least 30 days in advance get a 15 per cent discount).

A five-minute walk from the Acropolis museum, in pretty Plaka, the smart AVA Hotel & Suites (0030 210 325 9000; avahotel.gr) offers 16 spacious suites, which sleep two to four people. A fine choice for families, each suite has a bedroom, bathroom, living room with sofa bed and kitchenette, plus a furnished balcony or veranda. Suites at the front have Acropolis views (the higher up, the better), while those at the back face a peaceful courtyard.

Suites from €160.

For a hip hideaway in downtown

Above, traditional Greek soldiers guarding the tomb of the unknown soldier; left, hip and discreet, the terrace at EP16; below, the sleek interior at AVA Hotel & Suites.

Psirri, home to a lively nightlife scene, try EP16 (0030 698 508 3556; ep16.com). Occupying a 1930s building, it has five light and airy apartments, which sleep two to three people, each with wooden floors, contemporary designer furniture and a fully equipped kitchen. There’s a shared Acropolis-view roof terrace with potted plants and a fridge stocked with complimentary drinks.

Upon arrival, you get an orientation tour of the neighborhood, plus a Greek mobile phone with some credit so you can avoid roaming charges. Apartments from €100.

FEEL ANCIENT AND MODERN AT …

However many times you’ve seen the Acropolis, it remains a magnificent sight, especially at night when it’s bathed in golden floodlighting. A rocky mound rising 156m above the urban chaos that is modern Athens, each year it attracts some three million visitors, who come to see its three ancient temples, the largest and best known being the monumental fifth-century BC white marble Parthenon. The lovely car-free Archaeological Promenade skirts the foot of the Acropolis, linking it to other ancient sites including the Ancient Agora, Kerameikos and the Temple of Olympian Zeus – your Acropolis entrance ticket is valid for these attractions too.

On a more contemporary note, you have the impressive glass-andconcrete Acropolis Museum (theacropolismuseum.gr). Purpose built to exhibit a hoard of fascinating finds, it was designed by Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi and opened in 2009.

Besides proud marble statues, ceramics and jewellery, it displays a life-size reconstruction of the beautifully carved frieze that once ran around the top of the Parthenon. The

once ate here after performing at the Greek Festival. Given a chic new, all-white minimalist look in 2010, it’s known for classic Greek taverna fare such as taramasalata, courgette fritters and roast lamb.

For lunch in the city centre, close to busy Syntagma Square, locals favour Melilotos (0030 210 322 2458; melilotos.gr). Look out for tasty, freshly cooked, daily specials, as well as the chef’s favourite – salmon baked in parchment paper with celery, leek and fennel, served with spinach and mastiha sauce.

On a small square near Monastiraki, bohemian Cafe Avissinia (0030 210 321 7047; avissinia.gr) is especially fun on Sunday afternoons, when it hosts live accordion music.

There’s also a lovely Acropolis-view roof terrace for open-air dining.

Expect Greek dishes with fragrant herbs and spices from Anatolia – try the lamb and bulgur wheat stew, or pork with prunes and leeks.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER MATTHEWS

EAT AND DRINK AT ...

For top-notch, contemporary Greek cuisine head for Trapezaria (0030 210 921 3500; trapezaria.gr) in a former warehouse in Makrigianni, a five-minute walk from Acropolis metro station. Proprietor-chef Dimitris Panagiotopoulos creates exquisite dishes based on fresh seasonal produce – spring moussaka made from corn-fed chicken, artichokes and Pecorino cheese was a recent favourite. Depending on the time of year, expect delicacies such as wild asparagus, mushrooms, truffles or fresh tuna.

Great wine list too.

Magnificent views of the Acropolis, floodlit at night, are the main reason to dine at Strofi (0030 210 921 4130; strofi.gr), also in Makrigianni. Visitors and locals alike have been flocking to this romantic roof terrace since 1975 – Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nuruyev

PHOTOGRAPH BY NIKOS DANIILIDIS

well as eek architecture, as Gr ry ra po em nt co t ng ou a visit to Interested in checki fore flying out? Then be g in nt hu n ai rg ot of ba ory.gr ancient? Or just a sp te both desires; fact sa ld ou sh t, or rp ai e Factory Outlet, by th

chunks that are missing are the controversial Elgin Marbles, now in the British Museum in London – Greeks hope these pieces will eventually be returned to their homeland.

Before leaving, see all of Athens and the surrounding sea and mountains in one swoop, from the top of the city’s highest peak, Mount Lycavittos (295m). Rising behind the smart residential neighbourhood of Kolonaki, it’s covered with fragrant pinewoods and lush Mediterranean

vegetation. A footpath zigzags to the summit, capped by a whitewashed Orthodox church and a café, which can also be reached by cable car (from Ploutarchou Street in Kolonaki). On the northern slope, the Lycavittos Theatre stages open-air concerts – the 2012 programme promises Dead can Dance in September, while 2011 saw Cesaria Evora, Buena Vista Social Club and Thievery Corporation play here.

Left, the perfect hub to take off to the islands; echoes of Byzantium in the architecture.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Athens, on Tues, Thurs and Sat.

JUNE 2012

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InFlight

For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including Boardwalk Empire (pictured), turn to page 94.

JUNE 2012

| 89

WelcomeAboard Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ...

For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you.

Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on.

We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith.

Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh.

Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, flight, however devices equipped with flight flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off off..

DEVICES PERMITTED ✔ AT ANY TIME: Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

DEVICES PERMITTED ● IN FLIGHT BUT NOT DURING TAXI/TAKE-OFF/

INITIAL CLIMB/APPROACH LANDING: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).

Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys.

Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology

90 |

JUNE 2012

with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected.

DEVICES PROHIBITED ✘ AT ALL TIMES: Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat Food and bar service

News, music and movies

Seirbhís bia agus beáir

Nuacht, ceol agus scannáin

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary.

Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamhmheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.

with Aer Lingus. sant flight. Thank you for choosing to fly plea and able fort com a e hav you e hop We h maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus. raib go s agu t aga ach mh nea tait h dac Tá suil againn go mbíonn turas compor

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis.

GLÉASANNA A BHFUIL ✔ CEADAITHE I GCÓNAÍ: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.

GLÉASANNA ATÁ ● CEADAITHE I RITH NA HEITILTE, ACH NACH

BHFUIL CEADAITHE LE LINN DON EITLEÁN BHEITH AG GLUAISEACHT AR TALAMH/AG ÉIRÍ DE THALAMH/ AG TABHAIRT FAOIN DREAPADH TOSAIGH/ AG DÍRIÚ AR THUIRLINGT/ AG TUIRLINGT: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri.

Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe).

Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLÉASANNA A BHFUIL ✘ COSC IOMLÁN ORTHU: Gléasanna a tharchuireann

minicíocht raidió d’aon turas.

Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha.

Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta.

Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí.

Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse.

Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

SMOKING In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights.

Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time.

TOBAC De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh.

Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.

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AerLingusNews

Aer Lingus ioLAr tAkes pArt in “CeLebrAtion of fLight, 1912–2012” On Sunday, April 22, Aer Lingus’ first aircraft named Iolar, meaning Eagle, took to the skies over Enniscorthy, Co Wexford, as part of a celebration on the 100th anniversary of the first-ever flight from the UK to Ireland.

On that same date in 1912, Denys Corbett Wilson crash-landed his Blériot XI in a field at Crane a few miles outside Enniscorthy. Wilson had flown from

Goodwick in Wales and was planning to land in Kilkenny but poor weather and technical problems forced him to cut his historic flight short.

On the weekend of April 21-22 this year, the town of Enniscorthy in Co Wexford held a series of events under the title “Celebration of Flight, 1912–2012” to commemorate this important milestone

It’s FashIon Forward For BallynahInch PrImary school The results of the Aer Lingus Art for School’s Competition 2012 are finally in!

The winning school was Ballynahinch Primary School and the winning design was submitted by nine-year-old Zara Campbell, whose design for a new cabin crew uniform was chosen by the judging panel as their favourite.

Aer Lingus has sponsored the Schools’ Art Competition in Northern Ireland for the past five years, together with local schools’ newspaper NI4Kids. The response was incredible with talented primary five and six children from schools across Northern Ireland submitting their designs for a new uniform for Aer Lingus cabin crew.

Choosing the eventual winner was not an easy job but the judges decided unanimously that Zara’s design was exceptional.

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in Irish aviation history, including flyovers from a number of vintage aircrafts.

The Aer Lingus Iolar was the undisputed star of the show. Captain Brendan Bruton, a member of the Aer Lingus volunteer team who restored the aircraft last year, piloted EI-ABI from Dublin to Enniscorthy and flew over the town and nearby Vinegar Hill to the delight of onlookers.

Aer Lingus launches its new look website

Aer Lingus has recently unveiled its revamped corporate website at aerlingus.com. The new and improved website aims to provide visitors with a resource where upto-date information can be easily accessed through ease of navigation.

The website contains information on the company’s historical background, descriptions of the airline’s entire fleet, details of the route network and a comprehensive investor relations section. The new media centre contains interesting facts and a collection of downloadable images from throughout the years.

The newly designed website is part of Aer Lingus’ commitment to improving its service offering, providing customers with the most up to date information at their fingertips. The website enables the airline to communicate with its customers more effectively. Check it out at aerlingus.com

AerLingusNews

Aer Lingus is proud to support the Irish Olympic Team. We wish all those involved a happy and successful Olympic Games and we look forward to welcoming the Irish Olympic Team on board.

Booking your holiday just got easier … introducing holidays with aer lingus!

• City breaks from €199 per person • sun holidays from €299 per person • luxury 5-star holidays from €499 per person • Family holidays from €1,299 • “all-in” holiday packages with great local guides from €439 per person Check out these great holidays by visiting holidayswithaerlingus.com or go to aerlingus.com and click on “Holidays”.

Did you know you can now book your entire holiday on aerlingus.com? Book flights, good quality accommodation and transfers from one website!

Customers can now book sun holidays, city Breaks and sightseeing holidays to all Aer Lingus destinations from Dublin and Cork. With great flight prices and high quality accommodation, you know you are getting the best from Holidays with Aer Lingus.

Design your perfect holiday online with ease; any date, any duration and any destination! Plus we’ve a great price comparison tool to help save you even more money. All the holidays are bonded, giving you extra piece of mind. Whether you are looking for a family holiday, a romantic getaway for two, a luxury break or a great value city break, it’s all here on Holidays with Aer Lingus. Great holidays at amazing prices and all on one site – Holidays with Aer Lingus is the easy way to holiday!

Aer ArAnn operAte All services under Aer lingus’ regionAl BrAnd Aer Arann recently announced the expansion of its franchise relationship with Aer Lingus. Under the new agreement, all Aer Arann services will now operate under the Aer Lingus Regional brand.

In addition to the exisiting 21 Aer Lingus Regional routes currently available from Dublin, Cork and Shannon, the expansion will provide customers with greater connectivity between Ireland and the UK, including Dublin to London Southend, Isle of Man and Kerry and Waterford to Southend, Manchester and London Luton, to name but a few. june 2012

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iNFLiGHT ENTERTAINMENT

FLIGHTS TO THE US From Dublin to Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando; from Shannon to Boston and New York; from Madrid to Washington. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.

Movies

This Means War

FLIGHTS TO THE US THiS MeANS WAR

JOHN CARTeR

ACT OF VALOR

Action/ Romance/ Comedy (PG 13) 97 minutes

Action / Family/ Fantasy (PG 13) 132 minutes

Action / Adventure / Thriller (R) 110 minutes

Chris Pine and Tom Hardy portray the world’s deadliest CIA operatives who are also inseparable partners and best friends until they fall for the same woman. Having once helped bring down entire enemy nations, they are now employing their incomparable skills and an endless array of high-tech gadgetry against their greatest nemesis ever – each other. The woman they fall for is Lauren. Lauren can’t believe her luck as she has gone from being single to dating two very handsome and perfect men.

As the guys realise they are attracted to the same woman, their competitive instincts kick in. This means trouble – This Means War!

Directed by Academy Award–winning filmmaker Andrew Stanton, this inventive science-fiction film is based on the novel series by Edgar Rice Burroughs. Former military captain John Carter is inexplicably transported to Mars, known as Barsoom.

Stranded on this lush, wildly diverse planet whose main residents are twelve-foot tall green barbarians, Carter becomes a prisoner of these creatures. When he escapes, he reluctantly becomes embroiled in a conflict of epic proportions. Carter rediscovers his humanity when he realises that the survival of Barsoom and its people rests in his hands.

An unprecedented blend of real-life heroism and original filmmaking, Act of Valor stars a group of active-duty US Navy SEALs in a film like no other in Hollywood’s history.

Act of Valor features a gripping story that takes audiences on an adrenaline-fuelled, edge-of-their-seat journey. A mission to recover a kidnapped CIA operative results in the discovery of a terrifying global threat, as a result an elite team of highly trained Navy SEALs must immediately embark on a heart-stopping secret operation. This ultimate action adventure movie showcases the training and tenacity of the greatest action heroes of them all: real Navy SEALs.

STARS Reese Witherspoon, Chris Pine, Tom Hardy, Chelsea Handler DiReCTOR McG

STARS Taylor Kitsch, Lynn Collins, Samantha Morton, Ciaran Hinds, Dominic West, Thomas Haden Church, Willem Dafoe, Emily Mortimer DiReCTOR Andrew Stanton

Act of Valor

STARS Alex Veadov, Roselyn Sanchez, Nestor Serrano DiReCTOR Mike McCoy, Scott Waugh

More Movies On Demand

John Carter

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GONe Amanda Seyfried W.e.

Abbie Cornish MAN ON A LeDGe Elizabeth Banks YOUNG ADULT Charlize Theron GOOD DeeDS Tyler Perry GAMe CHANGe Julianne Moore STARBUCK Patrick Huard THe GReY Liam Neeson

DARK TiDe Halle Berry JOURNeY 2: MYSTeRiOUS iSLAND Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson A WARRiOR’S HeART Kellan Lutz LADY AND THe TRAMP Peggy Lee TOOTHFAiRY 2 Larry The Cable Guy DUMBO Verna Felton TANGLeD Mandy Moore

FLIGHTS FROM THE US From Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando to Dublin; from New York and Boston to Shannon; from Washington to Madrid. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.

Movies

Albert Nobbs

FLIGHTS FROM THE US ALBERT NOBBS Drama (R) 113 minutes

Comedy / Drama / / Family (PG) 107 minutes

BiG MiRAcLE

21 JUMP STREET

Five-time Academy Award nominee Glenn Close stars as Albert Nobbs in this emotional and thought-provoking tale of a woman forced to live as a man in 19th century Ireland. After 30 years of keeping up the charade and passing as a man in order to work and survive, a new love threatens to destroy everything she’s worked so hard to build. Some 30 years after donning men’s clothing, she finds herself trapped in a prison of her own making. She hopes one day she might live a normal life as we catch a glimpse of a freespirited woman caught in the wrong time.

Set in Cold War-era 1988, Big Miracle tells the true story of a small-town news reporter and Greenpeace volunteer (Barrymore) who enlists the help of rival superpowers to save three majestic grey whales trapped under the ice of the Arctic circle. The media uproar captivates viewers around the world, unifying the globe in a single cause of hope.

Inspired by the true story that captured the hearts of people across the world, this is a truly amazing tale of those who joined forces with those of differing beliefs to save a family of majestic grey whales in small town Alaska.

In the action-comedy 21 Jump Street, Schmidt and Jenko are more than ready to leave their adolescent problems behind.

Joining the police force and the secret Jump Street unit, they use their youthful appearances to go undercover in a local high school. As they trade in their guns and badges for backpacks, Schmidt and Jenko risk their lives to investigate a drug ring. They soon discover that high school is nothing like they left it a few years earlier – and neither expects the terror and anxiety of being a teenager again and all the issues they thought they had left behind.

STARS Glenn Close, Mia Wasikowska, Brendan Gleeson, Brenda Fricker, Janet McTeer DiREcTOR Rodrigo García

STARS Drew Barrymore, Dermot Mulroney, Ted Danson, John Krasinski, Kristen Bell DiREcTOR Ken Kwapis

Action / Comedy (R) 109 minutes

21 Jump Street

STARS Jonah Hill, Channing Tatum,ska.

Brie Larson, Rob Riggle, Dave Franco, DeRay Davis DiREcTOR Chris Miller

More Movies On Demand

Big Miracle

cONTRABAND Mark Wahlberg THiS MUST BE THE PLAcE Sean Penn cHRONicLE Alex Russell WUTHERiNG HEiGHTS James Howson ONE FOR THE MONEY Katherine Heigl GHOST RiDER: SPiRiT OF VENGEANcE Nicolas Cage HAYWiRE Michael Fassbender LA DELicATESSE

Audrey Tautou JEFF WHO LiVES AT HOME Jason Segel JOYFUL NOiSE Dolly Parton THE VOW Rachel McAdams ScOOBY DOO! MUSic OF THE VAMPiRE Frank Welker TOY STORY 3 Tom Hanks THE PRiNcESS AND THE FROG Anika Noni Rose BENEATH THE DARkNESS Dennis Quaid

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INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

Television On Demand TV gives you the opportunity to select and view your favourite TV shows at your leisure. Look out for the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of comedy and drama as well as a variety of exciting genres. Brand New COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS take in New Girl, Raising Hope, Modern Family, The Big Bang Theory, Family Guy, Mike and Molly and from HBO don’t miss Enlightened, How to Make It in America, Bored to Death and Curb your Enthusiasm. Classic comedy features the brilliant Gavin and Stacey and two episodes and a treat for the ladies in Sex and the City.

As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus brings you a captivating choice of DRAMA TV with the availability of both one-off and multiple episodes. Watch out for an episode of Homeland, an intriguing drama with an immensely talented cast, this gripping thriller stars Clare Danes, “Showtime’s edgy, edge-of-your-seat series, is, bar none, the best thriller on American TV.” (New York Post) Also featuring is Boss starring Kelsey Grammer, as well as Ringer starring Sarah Michelle Gellar, “The show is great fun, and clearly the star herself is having fun in the lead roles.” (San Francisco Chronicle) The always popular CSI NY

Mad Men

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enhances this choice of popular Drama programming.

Exclusively available On-Demand are six episodes of Season 2 from the HBO triumph Boardwalk Empire, Steve Buscemi stars in this award-winning and hit drama series that charts the continued rise of organised crime at the dawn of Prohibition.

According to the Hollywood Reporter, “It’s essential viewing. All of the promise of last season looks to be realised with impressively deft storytelling, beautiful cinematography and impeccable acting.”

Premium HBO drama continues in Treme with the first six episodes of Season 2. This Emmy-nominated drama series takes place during the rebuilding of post-Katrina New Orleans, and charts the interconnected stories of several struggling musicians and locals as they attempt to rebuild their lives through the music and cultural traditions that make them, and the city, unique.

One of TV’s distinctive series is Mad Men, set in a 1960s advertising agency in New York; this complex, intelligent and entertaining slick drama imagines midcentury Americana as a dreamily, if painfully, transformative era. Available On-Demand are six episodes from Season 4.

Six episodes of Season 2 of Blue Bloods starring Tom Selleck is one to watch. Blue Bloods is a solid, characterdriven, multi-story serial drama. Selleck’s character serves as the anchor for four generations of police officers.

Award-winning drama continues with The Good Wife – a drama about a

Modern Family

ON DEMAND

Treme politician’s wife who pursues her own career as a defense attorney after her husband is charged with political corruption. Julia Margulies has been widely recognised for her portrayal of Alicia Florrick, winning an Emmy in 2011, Screen Actors Guild Awards in 2010 and 2011, a Golden Globe in 2009.

Available On-Demand are six episodes from Season 3.

TEENS onboard can view Glee, Shake it Up and 90210 and kids can enjoy Angelina Ballerina, Bob the Builder, Fireman Sam and Pingu.

LIFESTYLE, SPORT AND MUSIC HIGHLIGHTS include Other Voices, The Brit Awards 2012, Glastonbury 2011, Destination London, UEFA 2012 Magazine Show, HSBC Golfing World, Masterchef Ireland, Jamie Cooks Summer, Project Runway, Biography Channel (retrospective on Whitney Houston), Movie Talk and Inside the Actors Studio (Brad Pitt).

DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS take in Megafactories (Jack Daniels), National Geographic’s Most Amazing Photos, David Attenborough’s First Life, The Making of Human Planet, Destination Extreme, Waterways (The Royal Canal), Extreme Frontiers (with Charlie Boorman), Horizons, and the feature documentary Rise and Shine: The Jay Demerit Story.

Radio

ON DEMAND

Fitzpatrick Hotels

Chart Hits

Best of Moncrieff

This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information fitzpatrickhotels.com.

Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.

Chart Hits lets you discover the latest chart hits as well as keeping tabs on your favourite artists. This upto-the-minute Pop show unveils the biggest smash hits from the world’s biggest artists. Featuring newcomers to the scene – Nicki Minaj and Emeli Sandé as well as established artists Katy Perry, Usher, Coldplay, Adele and the queen of pop Madonna do not miss the exciting sounds of Chart Hits.

Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street.

Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.

Off the Ball/Sport Saturday To coincide with the UEFA Euro 2012, Newstalk presents Off the Ball and Sport Saturday – highlights include interviews with Paul McGrath and Niall Quinn. The PPI award-winning Off the Ball is innovative and engaging and manages to combine serious discussion with an ability to make you laugh. Catch the lads every night from 7pm. Sport Saturday presenter Ger Gilroy follows the action as it happens with his team of reporters. Tune into Ger Gilroy every Saturday from 2pm. newstalk.ie

Documentary On One Documentary On One is the multiaward winning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (88-90FM). Currently the most successful documentary unit in the world; the documentary featured here is “On a Cape Clear Day” and focuses on an American couple who retired to Cape Clear Island off the coast of Ireland. The website rte.ie/doconone contains over 900 radio documentaries – all freely available to listen to/podcast. You can also download the free Documentary on One iPhone and/or Android app.

Twitter @RTEDocOnOne.

Classical Daytime

My Tunes

Jazz Alley

Niall Carroll presents a selection of great music from the heart of the core classical repertoire.

Classical Daytime features some of the world’s most loved relaxing classics including Mozart’s Clarinet Concerto, Rodrigo’s Guitar masterpiece Concierto de Aranjuez and Saint-Saens Symphony No.3, “Organ”. This show is the ideal accompaniment to your flight and Classical Daytime can also be enjoyed on RTÉ lyric fm MondayFriday from 10am-2pm.

In this edition of My Tunes Aedín Gormley invites film director John Boorman to select, listen to and discuss music from his films. The renowned film director has made Ireland his home and here he discusses a lifetime of making films with a particular emphasis on the role of music in his films from the duelling banjos of Deliverance to Richie Buckley’s snazzy saxophone tunes in The General. My Tunes is on RTÉ lyric fm on Mondays from 7pm-8pm.

Twitter @RTÉlyricfm.

Donald Helme devotes Jazz Alley to the most popular instrument in the western world, the guitar, in both 6 and 7-string form. Helme focuses on the guitar which only came late to jazz, once the amplifier was invented in the 1930s. Featured artists include Anthony Wilson, Chuck Wayne, Howard Alden and the inventor of the 7-string, George Van Eps. Jazz Alley is on RTÉ lyric fm on Wednesday evenings from 7pm-8pm.

Twitter @RTÉlyricfm.

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Radio

ON DEMAND

Tubridy

Ronan Collins

Ceol na nGael

RTÉ Jr

Ryan Tubridy’s unique showmanship, intelligence and wit is broadcast to the nation every weekday morning. Spontaneous, unpredictable, entertaining and intelligent, Tubridy takes in everything from the day’s news to huge competitions, from big interviews to human-interest stories. Ryan Tubridy is one of Ireland’s most prolific broadcasters and his RTÉ 2fm show raises the bar for morning radio.

Twitter @Tubridy2fm.

RTÉ Radio 1 presenter Ronan Collins’ easygoing personality is a welcome interlude from the busy world around us. With a cheeky grin, Ronan enjoys the challenge of filling his programme with the kind of music that will make you smile, relax and reminisce. Tune in to hear old favourites, new hits and hidden gems. Twitter @RTERadio1.

Ceol na nGael is a traditional and folk music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh.

Seán presents the weekly Irish and Scottish folk and music programme Sruth na Maoile on RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta where you can hear more music like this. RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and celebrates 40 years on air in 2012. For more visit: rte.ie/rnag. RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta is on Facebook and Twitter @RTERnaG.

Join Colm Flynn and all his friends from ‘The Club’ on RTÉjr Radio for a fun packed show to enjoy during your flight! There’s music, a Disney quiz, fun facts about flying, books, and special guests Jedward! RTÉjr Radio is Ireland’s only radio station that’s just for children. You can tune in on your digital radio, online rte. ie/digitalradio/rtejr Saorview and on the RTÉ Radio Player on your mobile device to hear more.

Phantom 105.2

The Big 10

Cleared for Take-Off

Copeland Classics

Phantom 105.2 is quite simply the home of the very best music played on any Irish radio station. Phantom is committed to playing brand new music, Indie Rock but really we will play all genres of music – if it’s a great track, we will play it. Oh, we also like having a bit of craic along the way so why not try something different and tune into Phantom 105.2 – we promise you won’t be disappointed! We are Phantom – music that rocks!

The Big 10 on 98FM features ten songs with a connection.

Tune into the countdown every Sunday morning at 10am as we countdown The Big 10, each week a different set of songs are featured each with a different connection. Presented by Darragh O’Dea of Dublin’s 98 FM, this special edition of the show focuses on the acts that will be playing concerts in Ireland this year.

You’re cleared for take-off every weekday morning from 6am until 10am with Pat Courtenay on Radio Nova. Also tune in to Nova for Breakfast Reheated every Saturday from 8am until 10am.

Courtenay’s show is a perfect combination of entertainment and of course the world’s greatest guitar-based songs. You can call Nova Breakfast on (01) 440 4 100.

We’re online at nova.ie and you can download our app to listen to us wherever you are in the world.

Welcome to the music of Copeland Classic Hits brought to you courtesy of Louis Copeland and Sons, a name synonymous with men’s tailoring in Dublin. Louis Copeland is a world renowned master tailor and provider of men’s designer suits for over 100 years. Louis Copeland and Sons can be found in Dublin on Capel St, Pembroke St and Wicklow St and beside the IFSC, as well as at Dublin Airport and in Galway on Merchants Road. From Armani, Brioni, Hugo Boss and Paul Smith – all leading labels are available at their stores. louiscopeland.com.

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The book shares much of the philosophy and methodology of Maybe International who are specialists in performance improvement, management and leadership development and creativity. It also draws on the author's experience of working with and helping groups and individuals in sports and in other walks of life.

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Available on amazon, www.orpenpress.com and all major book stores

Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board to allow your skin to breathe, and apply a good moisturiser throughout.

Stretch your legs as much as possible by taking a stroll through the cabin.

Circle your ankles clockwise and anticlockwise. Bend and straighten your ankles in a brisk manner with the knee straight.

Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.

Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce any possible effects of long-duration travel.

Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation.

And remember to move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness.

We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Reducing the effects of jet-lag

Passengers with wheelchair requirements

To help reduce the effects of travelling and jet-lag before, during and after your flight, we have introduced an audio programme (available on Channel 6), which will play every other hour, offering 60 minutes of soothing and relaxing audio environments. The programme is designed to enhance your physical and mental wellbeing during the flight.

Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.

Apart from tuning in to the inflight relaxation programme, here are some other simple things that you can do to prepare for your journey.

Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel.

When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities gradually to the new time zone.

Mild exercise on arrival will also help to stimulate your circulation.

If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows:

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.

AER LINGUS

55cm (22ins)

email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Maximum weight

10kg

(Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222

43cm (17ins)

40cm (16ins)

Maximum weight

7kg (15 lbs)

(22 lbs)

20cm (8ins)

Telephone:

AER LINGUS REGIONAL

28cm (11ins)

20cm (8ins)

Additional small items, such as cameras, personal stereos, overcoats and handbags are allowed on board. EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter.

As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other

passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety.

If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination.

The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not

be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence.

In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them.

We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.

GREAT CARE FROM THE GROUND UP At Aer Lingus, we take great care in everything we do - from baggage handling, to catering, to customer care. The people you see, and the people you don’t, are all dedicated to making you feel welcome, every step of your journey. Great care on every level - it’s one of the many ways Aer Lingus takes care of you.

Great Care. Great Fare.

Ireland’s Leading Fine & Decorative Arts Courses ENROLMENT NOW TAKING PLACE

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RouteMaps EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Helsinki Stockholm

Aberdeen Edinburgh

Glasgow

DUBLIN

Hamburg

London

Birmingham

Kerry

Vilnius

Isle of Man Blackpool Manchester HEATHROW

Cardiff

Southend London

Bristol Bournemouth

GATWICK

Paris

Rennes

Warsaw

Dusseldorf

Brussels

Jersey

Berlin

Amsterdam

Frankfurt

Stuttgart

Prague

Munich

Vienna

Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid

Faro

Milan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Budapest

Venice Verona Bologna

Bucharest Dubrovnik

Bourgas

Rome

Barcelona

Ibiza

Lisbon

Milan

LINATE

Krakow

Naples

Palma

Izmir

Alicante

Catania

Malaga

Athens

Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Belgium Brussels

Finland Helsinki

Bulgaria Bourgas

France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan ■ Rennes Toulouse

Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife Croatia Dubrovnik

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart Greece Athens Hungary Budapest Ireland ■ Kerry

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona (new route) Lithuania Vilnius The Netherlands Amsterdam

Poland Krakow Warsaw

Palma Santiago de Compostela

London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Sweden Stockholm (new route)

■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Birmingham Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man Southend

Romania Bucharest Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga

Switzerland Geneva Zurich Turkey Izmir United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh London (Gatwick)

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com

JUNE 2012

| 103

INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Edinburgh

Glasgow

Knock

BELFAST

SHANNON

Dublin WATERFORD

Manchester Birmingham Luton Southend

Bristol London Heathrow LONDON GATWICK

CORK

Jersey

Amsterdam

Brussels

Paris

Rennes

Munich

Nice

Barcelona

Rome

Palma Lisbon Faro

Alicante Malaga

Lanzarote

Tenerife

Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon, Waterford & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Canary Islands Lanzarote Las Palmas Tenerife

FROM CORK

FROM GATWICK

Belgium Brussels (new route)

Italy Rome

Portugal Faro

Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga

France Nice Paris ■ Rennes

Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma

United Kingdom London Heathrow

Germany Munich

The Netherlands Amsterdam

United Kingdom London Gatwick London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

Ireland Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON France ■ Rennes United Kingdom London Heathrow

FROM WATERFORD ■ United Kingdom Luton Manchester Southend

■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Manchester

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

104 |

JUNE 2012

USA ROUTE NETWORK

Chicago

Boston New York Washington

Shannon

Dublin

Orlando

Madrid

To & From Dublin, Shannon & Madrid FROM DUBLIN

FROM SHANNON

FROM MADRID

USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando

USA Boston New York

USA Washington DC

(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

Chicago Orlando

JUNE 2012

| 105

INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS

CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis

Omaha Salt Lake City

Sacramento San Francisco San Jose

Kansas City Denver

Oakland

Nashville

Long Beach

Los Angeles San Diego

Phoenix

Houston

Columbus WASHINGTON DULLES

Lexington

Portland ME BOSTON

Nantucket NEW YORK

Baltimore Washington NATIONAL

Richmond Raleigh - Durham

Charlotte

Dallas (Fort Worth) Austin

Syracuse Rochester

Pittsburgh Burlington

Cleveland

Indianapolis Cincinnati Saint Louis Louisville

Las Vegas

Burbank

Detroit

CHICAGO

Toronto Buffalo

Atlanta

New Orleans

Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aguadilla

San Juan Ponce

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO New destinations with Aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United Airlines and Aer Arann Getting to the US from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier.

Now US, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental US destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers.

By choosing to fly to the United States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of United States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at

Terminal 2, Dublin airport.

This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of US bound flights to clear US immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon.

Customers arrive in the US without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination.

■ NEW YORK Connecting with JetBlue at JFK: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, simply hop on the Air Train to JetBlue’s Terminal 5 for your domestic connection.

Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at

the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ BOSTON Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan International Airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure.

Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ CHICAGO Connecting with United Airlines at O’Hare Chicago International Airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your UA domestic departure point.

Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin.

■ DUBLIN Connecting with Aer Lingus Regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin Airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final US destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

106 |

JUNE 2012

Helsinki Stockholm

Aberdeen Edinburgh

Glasgow

Isle of Man Hamburg

Manchester

Dublin Birmingham

Shannon Kerry

London

Southend

Cardiff Bristol

Berlin

Amsterdam

HEATHROW

Warsaw

Dusseldorf Brussels

London

GATWICK

Krakow

Frankfurt Paris Vienna

Munich

Geneva Milan

Venice

LINATE

Dubrovnik

Alicante

Faro

                         

Alicante Amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dubrovnik Dusseldorf Edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg Helsinki Krakow Lisbon London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Munich Palma Paris Rome Stockholm

Malaga

 Venice  Vienna  Warsaw ■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus Regional        

Aberdeen Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend Kerry

■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus  London (Heathrow) ■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus Regional    

Naples

Palma

Lisbon

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus

Rome

Barcelona

Madrid

Manchester Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh

■ VIA NEW YORK with JetBlue                          

Aguadilla Austin Baltimore Buffalo Burbank Burlington Charlotte Chicago Denver Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Ponce Portland ME Portland OR Raleigh-Durham

          

Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Seattle Syracuse Tampa West Palm Beach

■ VIA BOSTON with JetBlue              

Baltimore Buffalo Chicago Dallas Fort Worth Denver Ford Lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket New Orleans Oakland

              

Orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Richmond Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Seattle Tampa Washington (Dulles) Washington (National)  West Palm Beach

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to USA                          

Atlanta Austin Charlotte Cincinnati Chicago Cleveland Columbus Dallas (Fort Worth) Denver Detroit Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville Kansas City Las Vegas Lexington Los Angeles Louisville Miami Minneapolis Nantucket Nashville New Orleans Omaha Phoenix Pittsburgh

         

Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose Seattle St Louis Tampa

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to Canada      

Calgary Edmonton Salt Lake City Toronto Vancouver Winnipeg

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann JUNE 2012

| 107

FlightConnections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT

FLIGHTS ARRIVING AT TERMINAL 2 FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s

Immigration

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

Immigration

Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check.

After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level.

Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes.

PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:

PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE FRONT OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:

 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

108 |

JUNE 2012

London is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance

R A I LT O U R S IRELAND

First Class!

Book Today - Travel Tomorrow

• Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty • Waterford & Kilkenny • Cork & Blarney Castle • The Giant's Causeway • The Ring of Kerry • The Aran Islands • Connemara & Galway Bay • Titanic Rail Trails ONE DAY TOURS TO Blarney Castle NINE DAY TOURS FROM and Gardens DUBLIN Cliffs of Moher

Car Free - Care Free

www.railtoursireland.com

TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045 e-mail: info@railtoursireland.com in association with (Irish Rail)

tm

ASIAN CUISINE

Michelin Bib Gourmand

City Centre Dundrum Dun Laoghaire with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

www.mymao.ie

12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com

5^aYZS` 5Sef^W south king st | blanchardstown | dundrum | cork | belfast

lunch menu €9.95 take out menu available wagamama ireland

INFLIGHT SKY SHOPPING

Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf Eau de Toilette - 50ml Spicebomb is the new masculine fragrance from Viktor & Rolf. Electrifying, captivating and fearless. He doesn’t just explode – he goes boom. Spicebomb offers a highly addictive explosion of spices, tamed by an invigorating freshness. This new fragrance is the weapon of mass seduction!

hope in a jar

60ml by philosophy A unique soufflé texture originally created for the medical profession and recommended by plastic surgeons and dermatologists. It will improve the look of multiple skincare concerns including fine lines, rough texture and dehydration. A drink of water for your skin.

Aer Lingus Fun Plane with FREE key-ring Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and flashing lights. It comes complete with batteries for hours of fun. Also included is a FREE gift of a miniature plane key-ring.

Miss Dior Eau Fraîche Eau de Toilette - 50ml Enjoy the elegant chypre fragrance of Miss Dior in this new fresh and luminous version with its blend of bergamot and gardenia against base notes of patchouli.

110 |

JUNE 2012

Naked2 by Urban Decay A taupe-centric palette of twelve neutral shadows (five brand new) in shades ranging from pale to deep, matt to sparkly. More beige in overall tone than their first Naked palette, this collection still delivers subtle, neutral looks, smoky dramatic eyes and everything in between.

Shamballa Bracelet with Crystals and Natural Stones by Aeon This high-quality Aeon unisex crystal and natural stone beaded bracelet is part of a growing trend in jewellery that incorporates the healing properties of natural stones into fashion jewellery design. The crystals have always been a renowned symbol of peace, tranquillity and happiness. The fully adjustable 18cm to 23cm bracelet comes presented in an Aeon organza pouch.

Scents of Ireland Luxury Candles

by Tipperary Crystal

These luxury scented candles are made in Ireland using luxury fragrances that evoke memories of Ireland. This charming gift box contains two wonderfully natural scented candles. The Mourne Memories candle has a fresh, clean mountain air scent while the Sligo Shores candle will bring back memories of the wild Atlantic shore to your mind. Also contains two picture postcards.

Sky Shopping

Tem pt in g

treats a n d grea t savi n gs

Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items at reduced prices onboard during June.

Storm Husky Puppy Storm is a super-soft Husky that will always be ready for a cuddle! A beautiful puppy that will bring a smile to his new owner.

Skagen Black Leather Strap Men’s Watch Genuine style. This men’s watch with a black leather strap connects to a brushed stainless steel case. The shiny black dial features twelve chrome and white luminous numbered indicators, a 24-hour dial and date function.

Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices

Skagen Silver Mesh Strap Women’s Watch Stainless steel appeal. Signature Skagen silver mesh bands connect to a slim stainless steel IP gold case with gold border. The vertically brushed chrome dial features twelve indicators made with CRYSTALLIZED™ Swarovski elements.

JUNE 2012

| 111

TRIP OF A LIFETIME

Dreams comeTrue

Seven-year-old Amy O’Gorman remembers a wonderful visit to Disney World in Orlando, Florida, earlier this year.

A

my was a normal, happy six-year-old girl when, completely out the blue, in March 2011, she picked up a virus that attacked her heart. The condition, known as acute viral myocarditis, was extremely serious and Amy required a huge amount of help from the staff at Our Lady’s Children’s Hospital, Crumlin – involving a three-month stay, the majority of which was in the intensive care units – to pull through. Amy is still receiving treatment but is getting better every day and doing normal stuff again. Amy and her family were selected by The Children’s Medical and Research Fondation, at Crumlin Hospital, amongst other sick children to travel with Aer Lingus as a guest of golfer Graeme McDowell’s GMAC Foundation. Here, she tells us, in her own words, about her visit.

“It was my first time in America. It was a great trip and went even better than I had expected. I watched movies on the flight over: Dolphin

112 |

JUNE 2012

Tale and Alvin and the Chipmunks. That was fun.

Also, the food was nice – I loved the pasta! It had a nice sauce on it. And I was so excited I didn’t sleep at all on the plane. Well ... maybe I had five minutes ... but that was all.

When we got to Disney World we saw Mickey, Minnie, and Ariel the Mermaid ... she was in a dress that day. And there were other princesses there too. It’s not that I’m into princesses, I just like Ariel.

We were there for four days and it was brilliant. The people were very kind and they were always singing and dancing. There were parades every day. I liked that a lot, but it was the best when the princesses were singing and we all had to say ‘Dreams come true, dreams come true …’ and then all of these little sparkles appeared around the castle [it was fireworks]. That was on my last day in the Magic Kingdom.

Top, Jack, Amy, and Grace O’Gorman in front of Cinderella Castle. Above, the O’Gorman family with, from left, Captain Keith Reid, Graeme McDowell and cabin manager Geraldine Thompson.

I thought the best ride at Disney World was Splash Mountain. You have to get into a cart to go up this mountain, and there are little animals that speak to you! Anyway, when it gets to the top, it goes down to the bottom really, really fast. It went so fast that I lost my hat! ... We all got wet – even Mammy and Daddy. But we weren’t soaking wet. There was a camera that automatically took a picture of us all as we were coming down the mountain. We had really funny faces in the picture – my face looked scared (I wasn’t, though).

We went to the Animal Kingdom (on the second day). I really loved the animals there. There were elephants and one of the baby elephants was wandering around by itself. My favourite animal to see, though, was the giraffe – but it was blocking the road so we had to wait for it to pass!

It took a very long time. We also saw crocodiles on the safari. I wasn’t scared of them ...

I saw some 3D shows. We got special glasses so we could watch them. The Muppet 3D show was cool – there were bubbles in the cinema! My brother was scared of one of the Muppets and I wasn’t scared of any ... But at the end of the movie there were things popping up everywhere and I screamed! I don’t know why. Oh, and in one of the 3D shows, the mermaid swished her tail and everyone got splashed with real water! Th at That was so funny.

We would love to go back to Disney World sometime. We liked playing with Graeme [McDowell] – he was so nice to all the children there – and the people from Aer Lingus. Some of the nurses came with us too.

When I came home I had a full suitcase of cuddly toys. Our bags were really packed but they weren’t heavy – because it was only cuddly toys. I took hundreds of photographs so I could remember it.”

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