CARA SEPT

EASTERN PROMISE All eyes on Irish Rugby

DRAMATIC DONEGAL Where the wild things are

INFINITE VARIETY Do Toronto like a native

Prices correct as of date of print. Computer generated image.

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CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2019

CHECK IN 4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news and announcements 8 ARRIVALS Our latest meet and greet at Dublin’s T2 13 CHECK IN Calendars at the ready – September is ripe with amazing events and openings 26 DETOURIST Eoin Higgins bids bonjour to Marseille’s oldest quarter, Le Panier 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary lowdown 32 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Broadcaster Dermot O’Leary talks cats, Puglia and his favourite festivals

FEATURES

38 FLYING HIGH Tony Clayton-Lea takes a perch beside The Goldfinch director John Crowley 44 FINAL FRONTIER Clíona Foley meets Irish rugby stars ahead of the Rugby World Cup 52 LEAPS & BOUNDS Yvonne Gordon discovers the wilds of Donegal’s Inishowen peninsula 62 GREAT LAKES GREAT SHAKES Late summer is a fine time to cosy up to vibrant Toronto, finds Lucy White 80 ALL THAT GLISTERS Isabel Conway admires Antwerp’s multifaceted jewels 90 BELLE BORDEAUX Eoin Higgins indulges in his triple pleasures of food, wine and design

REGULARS

BUSINESS

73 10 FINE WINERIES 109 BUSINESS & LIFE Shayna Sappington says sláinte to Paul Wheatley raises a stein to worthy vineyards Munich’s eco-friendly offerings 99 6 FAB IRISH FORAGES 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Aoife Carrigy rummages through Join John Murdy behind the scenes nature’s bounty of Universal Studio’s Halloween 106 48 HOURS IN MINNEAPOLIS Horror Nights Shayna Sappington’s twin-city picks 118 BRUTAL BEAUTY 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Lucy White’s new hotels hotlist On-board info, entertainment and retail 120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT 152 A FINE VINTAGE Olivia Byrne, company director of An Aer Lingus throwback to 1954 London’s Eccleston Square Hotel

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WELCOME ABOARD This season we’re all about autumn getaways – and cheering on the Irish Rugby team in Japan.

W

elcome aboard and thank you for choosing to fly with us today.

Summer has drawn to a close and the autumn season is upon us. It’s back to school and back to work. Holidays however, needn’t be just a distant memory. Aer Lingus has great offers across its European and transatlantic network throughout the month of September, so wake up to the joys of travelling in autumn and swap duvet days for winter getaways.

Having begun our new service to Minneapolis-St Paul in July, we have plenty of exciting opportunities for great winter escapes to North America. New York and Boston are ever popular for Christmas

breaks or for winter sun, look to Orlando, Miami or Los Angeles. If a short, seasonal trip to Europe takes your fancy, there is lots of choice, including Amsterdam, Paris, Rome, Budapest, Prague, Lisbon, Venice and Milan … so get booking!

As the official airline partner of the IRFU, just like the fans, Aer Lingus is gearing up for an exciting Rugby World Cup in Japan this month. We’re delighted to bring “Home Advantage” to the Irish Men’s team as we fly the lads on Green Spirit for the first leg of their departure on September 11. In this issue of Cara, read about the team’s preparations from Joe Schmidt, in what will be his final outing as Ireland coach, and from

our cover star and Ireland fly half, Johnny Sexton. Rugby as a sport has expanded in Ireland in recent times and in our behindthe-scenes feature on page 44, Clíona Foley speaks to both Schmidt and Sexton on their World Cup readiness as well as to some of IRFU’s rising stars in the Women’s and Sevens teams and also professional referees.

No matter what happens in Japan, the future of rugby in Ireland is looking bright and Aer Lingus stands shoulder to shoulder with Joe Schmidt’s team in what promises to be an epic World Cup. Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.

SPACE ODYSSEY

BADGE OF HONOUR

LEADING LIGHTS

SEPTEMBER SALE

AerSpace, Aer Lingus’ new premium travel experience for short haul guests, commences on September 1. Enjoy more comfort with the middle seat free, for more space to work or simply relax. Plus, with lounge access, priority boarding and Fast Track airport security, you’ll breeze through the airport.

Book at aerlingus.com.

Since launching the Aviation Badge in partnership with the Irish Girl Guides, we are delighted that 1,821 girls and young women have earned the award, making it a soaring success. Recently on an Aer Lingus flight from Dublin to Heathrow, 16 Girl Guides and Senior Branch members made history by being presented with their Aviation Badge mid flight.

The Enactus Ireland National Competition brings together students, academics and business leaders committed to using the power of entrepreneurialism to solve community challenges. As proud sponsor, Aer Lingus will fly this year’s national winners, Trinity College, who will represent Ireland at the Enactus World Cup in Silicon Valley, San Francisco.

Wake up to winter! The Aer Lingus September Sale is now on. Beat the back-to-work blues and look forward to your next getaway. From North American adventures, to memorable city breaks at any of our European destinations, to sun, sea and sand holidays with the whole family, a world of value and opportunity awaits at aerlingus.com.

the cast le | t h e lodg e | t h e old s ta b le m e w s

There’s more rooms at the Lodge!

C

astle Leslie Estate have added 21 more beautiful bedrooms to The Lodge, meaning they now have 50 exquisite bedrooms at the Lodge.

The estate is also home to the magnificent Castle which offers guests the opportunity to stay in one of its twenty breath-taking bedrooms.

Castle Leslie Estate is nestled on 1,000 acres of undulating Irish countryside, dotted with ancient woodland and glittering lakes, and is one of the last great Irish castle estates still in the hands of its founding family.

A host of activities are on offer from falconry, clay target shooting, fishing, archery and walking trails to hot air balloon rides, spa treatments and the famous world class equestrian centre.

Steeped in history and full of character and charm, it is the ultimate Irish rural escape.

80 minutes from Dublin, 60 minutes from Belfast, and a million miles from anywhere.

An Overnight Escape at the Lodge to include one nights beautiful accommodation, a full hearty Irish breakfast and a 5 course dinner in the 2 AA Rosette award winning Snaffles Restaurant starts from just €130 per person sharing .

Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough, Monaghan

t: + 353 47 88 100 www.castleleslie.com

EDITORIAL

EDITOR Lucy White DEPUTY EDITOR Eoin Higgins EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Shayna Sappington SUB-EDITOR Sheila Wayman CONTRIBUTORS Aoife Carrigy, Tony Clayton-Lea, Isabel Conway, Éadaoin Drumgoole, Clíona Foley, Yvonne Gordon, Alice Rose Jordan, Conor Horgan, Bridget Hourican, David Sciora, Elly Walton, Anthony Woods

ART

ART DIRECTOR Niamh Richardson ACTING ART DIRECTOR Julie Horton CREATIVE DIRECTOR Bill O’Sullivan

ADVERTISING

ADVERTISING MANAGER Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie ADVERTISING COPY CONTACT Derek Skehan, +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie

ADMINISTRATION

FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Brett Walker ACCOUNTS MANAGER Lisa Dickenson CREDIT CONTROLLER Angela Bennett

CONTRIBUTORS With a passion for visual storytelling, Anne O’Hara is a Dublin-based artist working in a range of media, from pencil and watercolour to cut paper and collage. She’s a member of Illustrators Ireland and the Association of Illustrators and is currently writing and illustrating a children’s picture book. For her Prague illustration for Cara on page 34, she imagines a Technicolor version of the Czech capital, as seen through the eyes of a sugar-high 13-year-old – budding travel writer, Éadaoin Drumgoole.

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Clodagh Edwards GROUP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lizzie Gore-Grimes GROUP CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Melanie Morris GROUP EDITOR AT LARGE Laura George EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Ann Reihill

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

CHAIRMAN Laura George DIRECTORS Eoin Magee, Patrick Dillon Malone, Clodagh Edwards, Melanie Morris, Robert Power

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Media.

Dragana Paramentic is a Toronto-based lifestyle photographer and dedicated pleasure seeker.

Having moved to Canada from Serbia only three years ago, she still loves experiencing the city as a tourist. While shooting for this issue of Cara – see page 62 – she took the opportunity to take a swim at Toronto Islands and enjoy evenings under the stars (and string lights at breweries).

When she’s not savouring summer in the city, she’s empowering women through transformational photography.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD

CEO Clare Broadbent BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Christina da Silva COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Justine Daly CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stuart Purcell FINANCE DIRECTOR Jane Moffett STRATEGY & BUSINESS DIRECTOR Ann Hartland +44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

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PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663

Munich-based journalist Paul Wheatley specialises in all things Bavarian, but doesn’t mind popping over to the Alps every now and then for some extra inspiration. But for this issue of Cara, Paul didn’t go far as he caught up on the best bits of Munich. This includes eco hotels, organic restaurants and vegan and veggie cuisine: turn to page 110. Paul is also the author of a history of Munich book, and for the next print run he’s been honing his photography skills in order to add a few of his own images of Bavaria’s capital.

© 2019 Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd. Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie.

ON THE COVER EASTERN PROMISE All eyes on Irish Rugby

DRAMATIC DONEGAL Where the wild things are

INFINITE VARIETY Do Toronto like a native

Johnny Sexton was photographed by Anthony Woods at Carton House Resort in Co Kildare, with assistance from Alice Rose Jordan.

WELCOME TO OUR NEW ISSUE! WE ARE ALL YOURS. FEEL FREE TO TAKE THIS MAGAZINE AWAY FOR YOUR ONWARD JOURNEY. WE WOULD ALSO LOVE YOUR FEEDBACK AND TRAVEL PHOTOS VIA TWITTER @CARAMAGAZINE.

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ARRIVALS

Finishing up their summer holidays, these excited travellers stopped in T2 for a chat.

WHO? Anaïs and Mathias Tourier FLYING IN FROM … Belarus via Paris ANAÏS SAYS … “Our whole family is meeting in Dublin as a late Christmas present vacation. We are excited to spend the weekend here in Dublin.”

WHO? Anne Provencher FLYING IN FROM … Leeds ANNE SAYS … “I am a teacher in Manila. My mom and I are visiting Dublin then heading home to the US for the first time since Christmas.”

WHO? Jule and Sylvia Stäck FLYING IN FROM … Berlin SYLVIA SAYS … “My daughter is going to language school in Cork for four weeks. We are going to go see the Cliffs of Moher tomorrow and then head south for her studies.”

WHO? Aaron Chapin and Diane Pizzuto FLYING IN FROM … Amsterdam AARON SAYS … “We are Americans that live in the Netherlands. We’re in Dublin to celebrate a cousin’s graduation.”

WHO? Thomas McDonogh FLYING IN FROM … Brussels THOMAS SAYS …

“I am an Irish native glad to be returning home after spending time in Belgium for work.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN & WORDS BY SHAYNA SAPPINGTON

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Your ride is waiting.

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Find walking directions to Zone 18 Pickup Point in-app.

ZO N

18 E

BLARNEY CASTLE

&

GARDENS

Renowned for Bestowing the Gift of Eloquence Each visit to the gardens at Blarney Castle is always a unique experience. The grounds change remarkably with the seasons and new surprises await you around every corner. The 70 acres of gardens are a must see destination, and the estate boasts one of Ireland’s finest collections of trees and plants from all corners of the world.

As Ireland’s first Wildlife Estate, it stands to reason that this haven so close to the city is a wonderful location to be close to nature. A stealthy visitor may spot an elusive kingfisher along the riverside walks or a red squirrel in the arboretum. It’s no surprise that Blarney’s gardens are the most visited in Ireland.

There is something for everyone, from the amateur gardener to the seasoned plantsman or the family out to explore.

Follow the map to find the historic and magical Rock Close with it’s Wishing Steps and Witch’s Kitchen; or the deadly Poison Garden, the Jurassic Fern Garden or the hidden Himalayan Valley.

Visiting gardens just got so much more exciting!

September 9am – 6.30pm (last admission 5.30pm) www.blarneycastle.ie | info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork)

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I AM FRAGILE © FLORIAN LE DOUX

EAT | READ | GO

SEA SPLENDOUR Dive into icy seas via cinematic splendour at the touring 2019 Ocean Film Festival, where surfers, fishermen and marine scientists explore oceans in newly released short films. Running at the National Concert Hall, Dublin on September 10 and in Cork’s Everyman Theatre the following night, rare footage in Florian Le Doux’s I am Fragile captures herds of beluga whales, above, and majestic polar bears on an Arctic excursion from Greenland to Canada, where global warming’s devastation spans 6,000 kilometres.

Other highlights include underwater artist Philip Gray’s latest aquatic masterpiece (A Peace Within) and extreme winter surfer Dan Schetter’s gnarliest ride in Lake Superior’s swells (Surfer Dan). The festival also tours the UK until October 25. oceanfilmfestival.co.uk

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LOOKING FOR PARADISE / LES 3 POINTS DE SUSPENSION

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FRINGE ELEMENTS From September 7-22, Dublin Fringe Festival, above, celebrates its 25th birthday with more than 545 performances from new and experienced artists alike – expect spoken word, comedy, theatre, talks, food and gravitydefying dance, such as aerialist Emily Aoibheann in Sorry Gold.

Most anticipated is artist Cathal McCarthy’s Rainbow in a Box (Dublin Castle) and musical performances by Loah & Bantum in Club Culture is Culture (fringefest.com). Don’t be too sad when the fun is done, however, as Fringe is soon followed by Dublin Theatre Festival (September 26-October 13; dublintheatrefestival.ie). Come see Irish classics such as JM Synge’s Playboy of the Western World (Gaiety Theatre) and the experimental debut of Michael KeeganDolan’s MÁM (O’Reilly Theatre).

TANK GIRL Mariele Neudecker’s captivating artwork, where nature is artificially and beautifully preserved in her latest tank installation, will be on show at the Limerick City Gallery of Art, from September 5 until November 17.

Sediment is the seasoned German artist’s first major Irish show and presents key pieces from all strands of her artistry, from early map works to still life Plastic Vanitas to deep-sea projects. Submerge yourself in the strange and wonderful. gallery.limerick.ie

HIGH PRINKS Flying in to Dublin for the weekend? Try a drinks party with a difference at the always charming, multi award-winning Little Museum of Dublin. The Georgian House Party, hosted each Friday from 6pm-7pm, is an artful way to discover all there is to know (and some genuinely useless information) about our gutsy capital city. Plenty of opportunity to make friends too, as the Little Museum’s ever-so-slightly off-kilter hosts keep guests topped up with great wine, funny stories and good cheer. A Dublin institution in the making. Adults only, €12 – includes two glasses of wine. littlemuseum.ie

One Destination

A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

Book online today Experience a unique landscape and culture by staying in County Clare Open 8am – 7pm in September & October

Co. Clare, Ireland.

T: +353 65 7086141 E: info@cliffsofmoher.ie

United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

www.cliffsofmoher.ie

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INNER SPACE Architectural wonder The Second Home Serpentine Pavilion is an 80-square-metre chrysalis structure with a colourful fabric skin.

Designed by Madrid-based architects Selgascano and originally displayed in London’s Hyde Park, the behemoth is now at La Brea Tar Pits in LA until November 24, in collaboration with The Natural Museums of LA County. Enter its snake-like shape to find a kaleidoscope of colour, shadows, shapes and light, then continue on through a “secret corridor” to discover a stained-glass-like interior. Beside the Pavilion is a programme of lectures, film screenings and other events. See, listen, marvel. pavilion.secondhome.io

DEEP BRECHT Nineteen-thirties Germany was a hotbed of political unrest, social and economic turmoil and displaced identity, resulting in a boom of cultural creativity that Bertolt Brecht expressed in his plays, poems and songs. On September 14-15 at Dublin’s National Concert Hall, Change the World reimagines these works in a 2019 context with performances by Cabaret star Ute Lemper, Einstürzende Neubauten’s Blixa Bargeld, Australian superstar Meow, right, and Ireland’s own Camille O’Sullivan and Gavin Friday. nch.ie

KARL GIANT

PLUCK & STRUM CLONAKILTY INTERNATIONAL GUITAR FESTIVAL IS A WEEK CHOCK-FULL OF FUN AND STRUMS THIS SEPTEMBER 16–22, FROM FOLK TUNES TO POST ROCK HEAD-BANGERS. HEADLINING THIS YEAR’S FESTIVAL IS CORK-BORN JOHN SPILLANE, ACOUSTIC DUO GEORGE LOWDEN AND PIERRE BENSUSAN, CANADIAN SENSATION HAWKSLEY WORKMAN AND SOUTH KOREA’S JAMBINAI (WHO CLOSED OUT THE 2018 WINTER OLYMPICS). AWARD-WINNING MELBOURNE OUTFIT, THE MAES, WILL GIVE A SIGNATURE, INTIMATE PERFORMANCE OF SONGS FROM THEIR SELF-TITLED ALBUM OF THIS YEAR, AND A MUST-SEE IS ADAM MCGRATH FROM THE EASTERN, A PREVIOUS OPENER FOR FLEETWOOD MAC. CLONGUITARFEST.COM

NIGHT CRAWL Creativity and celebration combine on Culture Night this September 20, where nationwide museums, galleries, parks, theatres and more unite for an electric night of engagement with the arts. And the best part: it’s all free. In Cork, aspiring musicians can record at Blackwater Studios or dance in a trad sesh at Skibbereen Heritage Centre, while Dubliners can tour Georgian buildings (14 Henrietta Street), join a pub crawl (A Stroll Through Publin) or talk shop and props at the Abbey Theatre. Make sure to visit Dublin’s all-new Museum of Literature Ireland (moli.ie), opening on St Stephen’s Green South at 5pm. culturenight.ie

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DIASPORA

EARTHLY CHANCE From South Dublin to Las Vegas, Ciara Byrne fought off fierce competition to win an Obama Foundation Fellowship this year for her school gardens programme Green Our Planet, which was selected as one of 20 community projects for a two-year expansion.

What inspired you to apply for the Obama Fellowship and what made your initiative stand out? A friend of mine, Amy Schmidt, encouraged me to enter and I have to admit that I was reluctant when I learnt that more than 20,000 people had applied the previous year. I think Green Our Planet stood out because, founded in 2013, it’s now the largest school garden programme in the United States and continues to expand. We use outdoor school gardens and indoor hydroponics as laboratories for teaching science, math, reading, conservation and healthy nutrition in a hands-on way. Gardens are a great way to create the next generation of conservationists so I think our mission and how we are carrying it out is what resonated with the Obamas and their Foundation.

To what would you attribute Green Our Planet’s success? If a principal or teacher wants to run a school garden, there are normally lots of hurdles: financing, what soil to use, irrigation, what to do with the harvest, etc. We solve all of this by building the gardens, providing farmers to visit the schools, assigning a coordinator, introducing STEM curricula.

Twice a year we also host the largest student-run farmers’ market in America, with more than 500 students selling fruits and veggies from their school gardens.

We plan to expand to other cities and states across the country.

You’ve been an emigrant for 25 years, living in Malta and Iran before America.

Why Nevada? I never figured myself for a “desert person” but over the past nine years I’ve really fallen in love with the serene and monumental beauty of the Mohave Desert around Las Vegas.

We didn’t plan to come here and run a garden programme, everything happened accidentally. We were working on a film in Vegas and had the idea for Green Our Planet. We could have begun it anywhere but decided to try it in Las Vegas and it started taking off. There’s no doubt that Ireland will always be where my soul resides but I do consider myself a global citizen.

You had worked in the film and TV industry. What turned you on to environmental issues and when did you decide to change career? When I was around nine years old, we went on a school tour to Lough Key Forest Park in Co Roscommon and I was in awe of the trees’ beauty. I felt a connection with the planet that was profound, spiritual. This, along with living by the ocean in Malta when I was around seven and growing up with a dad who loves nature – most Sundays he’d bring us on drives to Blessington, Co Wicklow – propelled me to do the work I do today. As a filmmaker I developed many ideas for films about the environment but they were difficult to sell. Eventually I realised

a different direction might allow me to have a bigger impact.

What do you do for downtime? My boyfriend Kim and I often go hiking in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, which is close to our home. We also like Mount Charleston, around 40 minutes’ away. We love travelling and just got back from an amazing trip to Peru, trekking in the jungle and hiking in the Andes. Spectacular.

After catching up with loved ones, where do you look forward to reconnecting with in Ireland? I visit twice a year – once in the summer and at Christmas. My parents live in Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, and I love going running from their house down to the pier. And, of course, I love being in Dublin city, wandering down Grafton Street, enjoying the buskers and street life. I like to visit Trinity College and see the Book of Kells – that never gets old for me.

I often go to the National Gallery – they have some really great exhibitions. If we’ve time, we like to take in a play, as the theatre in Dublin is some of the best in the world.

What’s the most Irish thing about you?

I love telling and listening to stories. I miss the great conversations in Dublin pubs.

Americans don’t seem to have time for storytelling in the way Dubliners do.

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This immersive, family-friendly show is just the ticket to ease those back-to-school blues. Beasts of London is in the Museum of London until January 5 and aims to educate children on the city’s history from an animal’s perspective. It starts in prehistoric London, then moves on to the Medieval Age, where a rat tells his side of the Black Plague, followed by a noble horse’s Victorian tale and, finally, arrives in modern day. The show uses striking video projection and mapping combined with the famous voices of Kate Moss, Brian Blessed, Pam Ferris and more to stir young interest and make the past more accessible to kids of all ages. museumoflondon.org.uk

IKKO TANAKA, JAPAN, 1986

ANIMAL TALES

CINEMASCAPES While Canadian artist David Drebin has created a wide range of art across multiple media, most of his work is connected by a single thread – cinematic narratives of “femme fatales” in dreamy, unsettling encounters. This effect is achieved through unique lighting and repoussoir technique (where partial views of buildings, curtains or door panels intensify depth). His HIGH10 collection, showcasing photographs, sculptures, and neons, runs at Barlach-Halle K in Hamburg this September 26-29. barlach-halle-k.de

NIPPON DRAWN With 226 Japanese graphic design posters on display, Colorful Japan will make its daring debut at Amsterdam’s Stedelijk Museum – which holds the largest collection of Japanese posters in Europe. The exhibit is a tribute to legendary graphic designer Shigeru Watano and features an intricate balance of colour, characters and form. Other artists displayed include Ikko Tanaka, Kazumasa Nagai, Ken Miki and the brilliant Tadanori Yokoo. From September 7. stedelijkmuseum.nl

COURTESY OF HIGH10 COLLECTION

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POP IN FOR A VISIT. STAY FOR A JAMESON. BOOK NOW JAMESONWHISKEY.COM

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DINNER BROOKLYN FARE,

NICOLAS LOBBESTRAEL

NEW YORK

We visited the chef’s table at Brooklyn Fare many years ago which is at the back of a small grocery shop. We arrived early to soak up the atmosphere (I had previously worked with Chef Ramirez in a Chicago restaurant called TRU). It was a terrific dining experience made of simplicity, with flavourful eating and real enjoyment – no smoke and mirrors, just honest, wholesome cooking using great ingredients. Seeing each course cooked and plated – the artistry unfolding in front of us – was a real treat. brooklynfare.com

I had lunch at this outstanding Jean-François Piège restaurant last year. Precise, tasty and very comfortable eating, with bags of class. A beautiful arrangement of courses too, served in a fun, stylish way in a modern room. Standout dishes were the roast celeriac rose and hazelnut; crispy potato puffs, and shellfish custard with caviar. With a sweet tooth like mine, the choice of multiple desserts was amazing: tarte tatin, single origin chocolate and lime blancmange … A real genius in the kitchen who cares a lot about his craft. jeanfrancoispiege.com BREAKFAST BELMOND

HOTEL SPLENDIDO, PORTOFINO

I find fresh fruit always tastes better in warm climates. Here, I enjoyed an amazing breakfast buffet with my wife Kate and our firstborn, Tynam. We grazed through heaps of courses. Service was attentive and nothing was too much trouble – a very family-friendly place. We were novice parents at the time and looked the part. My lasting memory is of the fresh fruit: juicy, succulent. The cold meats were also world class – try the Culatello di Zibello DOP. belmond.com

FOOD FLIGHT For the past 25 years, “the sourcing of Irish ingredients with integrity” has been a pivotal part of Graham Neville’s cooking.

At this year’s Irish Restaurant Awards, the Dax Restaurant chef was voted Best Chef by a panel of his peers, while Dax itself took home the Best Dublin Restaurant gong. dax.ie

DRINKS 9 BELOW, DUBLIN A chic little speakeasy, 9 Below is nestled in the basement of No 9 St Stephen’s Green. The beautifully designed space offers four cosy rooms.

Although known for its cocktails, there’s also a great variety of spirits from home and abroad, and a fine selection of New and Old World wines. An intimate bar with stacks of personality and nice personal touches. 9below.ie

ADRIANA RODRIGUEZ

LUNCH LE GRAND RESTAURANT, PARIS

A MAGICAL WINTER WONDERLAND AWAITS This year at Center Parcs Ireland, we’re transforming our enchanting forest into a spectacular Winter Wonderland.

Discover tons of magical activities for the whole family to enjoy.

Why not visit Santa and his elves in his secret woodland workshop?

Enjoy a festive feast in one of our quality restaurants? Or experience a breathtaking light show?

And when you’re ready to relax, sit back in front of a log fire in one of our luxury lodges.

Be one of the first to experience the winter magic, visit centerparcs.ie

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NORTHERN LIGHT Exciting news as Northern Irish Michelin star chef Danni Barry teams up with venerable gastropub group: Balloo Inns. Their new restaurant is called Overwood and is located in Killinchy, Co Down, by scenic Strangford Lough.

The menu features “earthy, chargrilled flavours”, as the feted chef’s cooking takes a compelling new direction, via the searing heat of charcoal and fire. There’s outstanding seafood too, from Mill Bay oysters (voted one of the top 50 foods in the world) to Portavogie prawns, while vegetables – also roasted and grilled over charcoal – from Co Down, and premium cuts, such as Boyne Valley Irish Pork, also feature heavily. A sophisticated, yet relaxed room complements the rousing menu, as does an expertly curated wine list. ballooinns.com

GRUB’S UP Eoin Higgins seeks out new frontiers of eating and drinking.

STORY GLORY Catch a late sitting of Story by the Sea (until September 14), a pop-up

dining project from chef Tom Sellers and his team at London’s Michelin-starred Restaurant Story.

Sellers and the brigade have moved to beautiful Carbis Bay, on the Cornish coast, to bring exceptional food to an area of stunning natural beauty. During the course of the pop-up, the team will also work alongside ocean campaigners, Parley, in their bid to remove tonnes of plastic from our seas and oceans. Visitors can book for lunch or dinner seven days a week and enjoy this unique gastronomic, and virtuous, opportunity whilst lapping up views of golden sandy beaches and (cleaner) blue seas. restaurantstory.co.uk

SMALL PLATES

Delectable Irish morsels from home and away.

GREENE DAY Join the heady throngs at popular Dublin restaurant Bastible, to experience worldclass cooking from Irish chef Cúán Greene, ex Noma and three Michelinstarred Geranium, Copenhagen. The €55 tasting menu is a steal. bastible.com

RICH PICKINGS Northern Ireland’s largest autumn festival is back this month with a full programme of events to inspire minds and tingle taste buds.

The Armagh Food and Cider Festival is famed for its local produce, culinary excellence – and delicious cider. visitarmagh.com

BREW ORDER Native and visiting craft beer aficionados are jumping at the chance to take the tour at Limerick’s Treaty City Brewery, where a new micro-brewery experience, right in the heart of the city’s Medieval Quarter, has just opened. treatycitybrewery.ie

UPPER CRUST After last year’s sell-out session, Sourdough September returns to Dublin’s Conrad hotel on September 26 with the masterful sourdough bakers from Dublin’s famous Bretzel Bakery once again offering taster demos to lucky attendees. conraddublin.com

SHELL YES The Cliff Oyster Festival takes place this month at Cliff Townhouse, paying homage to the delicious shellfish with oyster offers, a Jazz and Oyster Lunch and a series of Oyster Sessions bringing fine foods, wines and music together under one roof. clifftownhouse.ie

DETOURIST

Join Eoin Higgins up on the big wheel overlooking charismatic Le Panier, in the southern French port city of Marseille.

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rguably the most historically intact part of Marseille, Le Panier is settled on the ancient Greek site of Massalia, around which the city grew.

While the district has the look and feel of a traditional Provençal village, it also carries the patina of millennia of cosmopolitan influx and influence.

DISCOVER The architectural heart of Le Panier, La Vieille Charité is – perhaps surprisingly, considering its grand aspect – a former alms house, which now houses the Musée d’Archéologie Méditerranéenne and Musée d’Arts Africains, Océaniens et Amérindiens, two essential cultural experiences in the area. vieille-charite-marseille.com

VIEW Spray it, don’t say it … join the Street Art Walking Tour to discover the colours, forms, ideas and personalities behind the district’s best urban art. Led by artists themselves, the tour visits the most emblematic murals, wall stencils and collages of the area’s enthralling guerrilla visual culture. Reservations by phone only: +33 6 3307 6400.

THE DETOURIST=

LEARN The Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations, Mucem, was, in the words of architect Rudy Ricciotti, built of “stone, water and wind”. Caught within its lobster pot exterior are a number of spaces worth perusing, housing permanent as well as rotating exhibits. Smart tip: enter Le Mucem via the spectacular sky bridge from the Fort Saint-Jean. mucem.org

CHOW Long-established Pizzaria Chez Etienne provides a menu comprising two types of pizza: anchovy or cheese; a considered selection of seafood (try the deliciously garlicky supions – grilled cuttlefish) as well as succulent cuts. Almost everything is cooked on the fire and all the better for it. A full-flavoured, no-nonsense essential. +33 4 9154 7633

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CLINK Sweeping views, creatively conjured cocktails and a rarefied ambience … it’s no wonder contented smiles abound at the InterContinental Hotel’s Capian Bar. Housed within the walls of one of the area’s architectural beaux idéals, Hotel-Dieu (for 800 years the city’s main hospital) the Capian is a fitting spot for a holiday sundowner. marseille.intercontinental.com

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HOMEMADE

Summer may be over but you’ll never get the blues with these fine keepsakes crafted from the island of Ireland.

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1. BLUE STEEL

As well as training for the likes of the Rugby World Cup, Robbie Henshaw runs Henshaw Eyewear. His sleek Blue Block line eases eye strain by filtering harmful blue-screen light.

From €99 at henshaweyewear. com.

2. BEE’S KNEES Summer doesn’t have to end just yet. The VOYA Travel Candle is handmade from organic beeswax, soya wax and a blend of holiday-seasonlike essential oils, including mandarin and clove. €12 at voya.ie.

3. INDIGO-GO

Refreshingly unique, these Irish linen napkins from Kathryn Davey are completely sustainable.

They’re plant dyed using Indigofera tinctoria leaves, colouring them in cool blue hues.

Set of five €58 at kathryndavey.com.

4. SUI GENERIS

Ansley has achieved nautical glory with its Three Rays Rose Gold watch – encased in sapphire glass and rose gold trim. Techy and trendy, with interchangeable straps. €235 at ansleywatches. com.

5. FOGGY DUE

“Inspired by morning mist”, Criostal na Rinne’s Ceo Tumbler is not your typical whiskey glass. The top is sandblasted for a foggy finish then joined by an elegant spiral of tactile glass, making for a suave tipple. €85 at criostal.com.

6. LIGHT MODE

Made from salvaged wood from Belfast’s historic dock, Copperfish’s Dock Table Lamp is one of only 100 made.

Each is uniquely grained and stands on a teal, oxidised copper pipe. A rare treasure. €250 at copperfish.ie.

WARM & NATURAL MADE IN IRELAND

BLARNEY, CO. CORK

s h op online @ bla rne y.com

BUNRATTY, CO. CLARE

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PARK SLOPE, 2018

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P H OTO B O O K

PADDY ROSSMORE: PHOTOGRAPHS compiled

by Robert O’Byrne (Lilliput) In the mid-20th century, Lord Rossmore travelled around Ireland with fellow members of the Irish Georgian Society, Desmond FitzGerald and Mariga Guinness, taking haunting photos of castles, houses and ruins. His collection is now with the Irish Architectural Archive but art historian O’Byrne has here selected some of the most evocative images and provided essays.

FICTION

GIRL by Edna O’Brien (Faber) In 2018, the 88-year-old Irish national treasure Edna O’Brien arrived in Nigeria with £15,000 in wads of cash hidden on her person to help her persuade locals to talk about the abduction of the schoolgirls snatched

by Boko Haram. She didn’t track down the girls but she did write this searing novel of kidnapping, incarceration, escape and hostility for the victim returning with an “enemy child”.

BROOKLYN: THE CITY WITHIN by Alex Webb and Rebecca Norris Webb (Aperture) Prizewinning travel photographer Alex Webb and his wife, the poet and photographer Rebecca Norris Webb, spent seven years photographing the NYC borough, Brooklyn. It’s estimated that one in every eight US families had relatives come through Brooklyn when settling in the country and the borough’s dynamism and ethnic diversity is caught in these marvellous images, saturated in colour. Hoops and stoops, blossoms and branches, headscarves, graffiti, cemeteries, parks and diners – “the city within the city within the city” – all of life, or at least all of New York, is here.

SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican strolls through New York City’s still-hippest borough, leafs through new reads and picks September highlights.

FAMILY After last year’s great debut, Dubray Storyfest returns to Dublin’s Airfield Estate on September 28, with more than 25 children’s authors and illustrators from the UK and Ireland. Airfield, in Dundrum, is an urban farm and gardens, a brilliant space, which will be taken over all day by storytellers, arts and crafts, family music workshops, pop-up poetry, face painting, and a relaxed zone for children with special needs. Judi Curtin (Alice and Megan), Niamh Sharkey (Hugglewug), Shane Hegarty (Darkmouth) are some of the authors and illustrators to meet.

NON - FICTION

HP LOVECRAFT AGAINST THE WORLD AGAINST LIFE by Michel Houellebecq (Cernunnos, Hbk) “Suspended above HPL’s entire edifice, like a thick unstable fog, is the strange shadow of his own personality”, writes Houellebecq in this essay on The Call of Cthulhu author. For horror fans, this is pure gold: France’s greatest living existentialist on America’s greatest ever cult writer, introduced by America’s greatest living horror writer: Stephen King!

EVENT

PAUL MULDOON’S ELEGY INCANTATA, STAGED BY SAM YATES AS A ONE-MAN SHOW STARRING STANLEY TOWNSEND, WAS A HIT AT LAST YEAR’S GALWAY ARTS FESTIVAL. NOW THE ACCLAIMED PRODUCTION OF MULDOON’S LONG POEM WRITTEN IN MEMORY OF HIS FORMER PARTNER, AMERICAN ARTIST MARY FARL POWERS, COMES TO DUBLIN’S GATE THEATRE FROM SEPTEMBER 4-14. GATETHEATRE.IE

SO OUR STORY BEGINS.

INTRODUCING THE ROE & CO. DISTILLERY

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Where would you fly to tomorrow? Puglia, Italy. That’s where our house is, in the middle of nowhere. It’s wild countryside there and great for getting away from it all. Plus, so many great places to swim. It’s also where my Italian feline friends Toto and Silver were born, to a stray cat – my wife helped deliver the kittens in a deft piece of midwifery.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK

In your latest book, Toto the Ninja Cat goes to Catsonbury.

Which is your favourite festival?

I love festivals – Latitude, Wilderness, The Big Feastival … but Glastonbury is the daddy of them all. There’s this sense of wonder and awe about it. The key is to realise you’re not going to see everything; just go and see the bands you love and enjoy wandering around.

Fave hotel?

Claridge’s because it’s quintessential old school English charm at its best.

How has your parents’ transition from Essex back to Wexford been? My mum and dad moved from Colchester, where they had lived since 1968, back to their native Wexford a couple of years ago. My dad, immediately, started watching hurling and camogie every weekend, so he seems pretty happy and they’re down in the south so they’ve got the great coastal walks. I love getting back to visit them. There’s a great fish restaurant there, in Kilmore, called Mary Barry’s Bar & Restaurant. And the Westbury Hotel in Dublin always has a special place in my heart.

Top three desert island discs?

Thunder Road by Bruce Springsteen, my favourite song of all time. The album it’s from is all killer, no filler. The Town I Loved So Well by Phil Coulter, a poignant love song. I like it because it’s a protest song but not a rebel song. You Got the Style by Athlete, who played at our wedding – although they are at pains to point out they’re not a wedding band! You Got the Style was our first dance, which isn’t a song you slow-dance to, or even dance to, but we didn’t care.

What were your favourite books to read when you were a nipper? I remember the page-turning joy and the dialogue of Roald Dahl’s books – Fantastic Mr Fox was always my favourite. I really loved Raymond Briggs too: The Snowman and Father Christmas especially. I like the way he never talked down to kids.

PORTRAIT BY RAY BURMINSTON

RACHEL D

Best known for hosting ITV’s The X Factor and BBC Radio 2’s morning show, Dermot O’Leary is a primetime superstar. He’s also a children’s author, his latest book, Toto the Ninja Cat and the Superstar Catastrophe (Hodder Children’s Books, €14), illustrated by Nick East, published on September 19.

AN ELEGANT NEW LOOK FOR THE MOST STYLISH SLEEPOVER IN TOWN Leading five star boutique hotel, off Baggot Street in Dublin’s south city.

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CZECH IT OUT!

Éadaoin Drumgoole, age 13, is the secondary school junior winner of the Immrama Young Travel Writers Competition at this year’s Lismore Immrama Festival of Travel Writing, sponsored by Aer Lingus. Here, we share her winning “Letter to Home”.

ILLUSTRATION ANNE O’HARA

No, I didn’t learn to speak Czech on my trip to Prague. But I did, however (accidentally) learn that it is far too easy to spend 87 Korunas – €3.50 in Captain Candy. What? I love the fudge ...

Terminal two is the best, with its sleek, modern architecture, the food court which makes you ravenous even if you’ve eaten a Man-vs-Food worthy breakfast and the shops which just beg you to buy their top-of-the-range comfort memory foam neck pillows.

My holiday started as most would. The lead-up thrill, the frenzy of “MAM, TELL ME YOU HAVE MY PASSPORT!” and finally the sibling squabble for the best seat on flight EI0644 – the window seat. I won :D. Immediately I noticed the trams in Prague. Everywhere. Nothing like the fear of being run over to kickstart your holiday. The Airbnb owner, Adriano, led us to Štĕpánská, the place we were to stay, down a dark alley with a restaurant called “The Titanic” next door. That comforted me a little. Our apartment was on the top floor, with a heart-stopping view of the concert hall. After a quick dinner of the-cheapest-bread-we-could-find-á-la-water, we slept. Let me just say, chimney cakes are life-changing. I have never tried anything quite like one, and probably never will again. They taste like apple that’s been brewing in cinnamon juice and the sweet tears of Jesus. Then to top it all off, a stream of piping hot chocolate is poured down the centre to form the masterpiece known as a trdelník.

That’s a mouthful. But trust me you want a mouthful of this!

We happily (now not hungrily) made our way towards Old Town square to watch the 600-year-old Astronomical Clock strike on the hour. There are so many additional clocks on the original clock that I honestly couldn’t tell which clock was on the actual time. A raucous ‘BONG’ cleared that up for me.

Tiny little apostle figurines danced around the clock face to a little tune of, you guessed it, more bongs. Skeletons rang their bells (don’t question it) and everyone cheered.

The next morning, my family and I finally decided to take a tram. Where to?

No idea. Why? Just for fun. I thought I would hate careening around corners at a speed that probably wasn’t legal, but it was thrilling! The people on the tram were pleasant and didn’t look at me strangely with my grubby old hat that I appropriated from Dad. The mystery tram adventure led to Prague Castle, with an insanely beautifully decorated Gothic style cathedral in the courtyard – St Vitus Cathedral. The guards looked like little dolls as they patrolled the grounds. On the way back, we stopped for one last trdelník and a traditional bratwurst, or street meat as I call it – it was incredibly delicious! I really hope you can visit Prague someday because it’s seriously the most fascinating city I’ve ever visited!

Éadaoin Drumgoole is a student at St Louis Secondary School, Dundalk and her teacher Ms Deirdre Smith helped submit her story. Earlier this year young writers were encouraged to submit entries based on different themes and across three different school categories, primary, secondary junior and secondary senior. Close to 500 entries were received from schools across Ireland, with three winners announced at the annual Lismore Immrama Festival of Travel Writing in June 2019, of which Aer Lingus was a sponsor. In our October/November issue, check out the triumphant secondary school senior entry by Jessica Enright, age 16.

STRAP

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PROJECT IN COLLABORATION WITH STUDIO BRAZIL INTERIOR ARCHITECTURE

THE GLOS

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S | Spring 201 7 | xx

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INTERVIEW

FLYING HIGH

After the huge success of the 2015 film Brooklyn, Irish director John Crowley’s world opened up to bigger and better opportunities. One was this month’s most hotly anticipated film release, The Goldfinch.

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ohn Crowley remembers his first masterclass in how not to give an actor a note. As a Cork-based teenager, he spent each summer in London with his older brother, Bob, a theatre designer who has won several Tony Awards for his work on Broadway musicals such as Carousel, Mary Poppins, Once and An American in Paris.

The so-called masterclass occurred in the mid-1980s, shortly after the first preview of a William Shakespeare play. John’s brother, who was its designer, and the highly respected British actor, Jonathan Pryce, were mulling over the finer points of the evening’s performance, when Pryce asked the younger Crowley what he thought of the play.

There is laughter before the memory arrives intact.

“The thinking was that if I had actually seen the play,” chuckles Crowley, “or had read it at school, then I would at least have had a clue what was going on. Anyway, I said I thought it was good but a bit rough around the edges.”

Pryce, recalls Crowley, looked at him, swore at him, and wondered aloud if “it was, perhaps, past my bedtime.

I remember blushing and then freezing”.

These days, the only items anywhere close to being rough around the edges are the almost 800 well-

thumbed pages of Donna Tartt’s 2013 Pulitzer Prizewinning novel The Goldfinch, which Crowley has made into a film and which follows his Oscar-nominated (and BAFTA-winning) 2015 movie Brooklyn. He says he had read the hefty book for pleasure some years ago (“long before there was any conversation about making a film of it”) but admits the success of Brooklyn had opened doors wide enough for him to pick and choose projects as he wished.

“I have been asked to work on various films over the years,” says Crowley, “but none of them was the right kind of thing for me. When Brooklyn came out, there were obviously more meetings about what films I’d be interested in, one of which was The Goldfinch. When that was mentioned, I knew it was something I’d very much be into. Previously, a movie of that scope may not have come my way, so Brooklyn’s success helped. I still had to fight to get The Goldfinch, however, and audition for it, but I’m fine with that.”

Such a grounded approach has been a fixed component of Crowley’s personality and working methods. He started his career by following his brother into theatre: working in Dublin in the early 1990s and then within five years – having forged an identifiable,

JEFF VESPA / GETTY IMAGES

WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA

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INTERVIEW

For Crowley’s interest and intellect to be piqued, the work under his scrutiny has to have “an emotional core”

Ruffling feathers, following page – Nicole Kidman and Ansel Elgort in John Crowley’s big-screen adaptation of Donna Tartt’s The Goldfinch, which also stars Sarah Paulson, Aneurin Barnard and Luke Wilson.

signature blend of attention to detail and keen insight – went to London’s West End. His feature film debut was 2003’s knuckle-duster crime comedy Intermission.

Theatre and film work chase each other (they still do – Crowley is currently in-situ at London’s Old Vic Theatre, directing a new play by British playwright Lucy Prebble – A Very Expensive Poison) but the notable success of Brooklyn changed things.

For Crowley’s interest and intellect to be piqued, he reveals, the work under his

scrutiny has to have “an emotional core to it, which you feel is worth spending about two years of your life working on”. Further satisfied, he remarks, with projects “that are more complex, rather than cut-and-dried”, his wish was granted with The Goldfinch.

“I loved the vividness of the world that Donna Tartt created,” he explains. “When reading it I thought it to be an incredibly immersive experience. If you have a very strong reaction when you read a novel like The Goldfinch, it’s not that you’re thinking, well, that’s a great plot point or that’s a great piece of writing you can do good work with. It is, simply, that you get stuck into its world. I just didn’t want to leave it.

I have never read anything quite like it and that, really, was the key to making me feel that I’d be a good fit.”

And yet transposing into a film the storyline of such a page-heavy book – as much as his ideas about it – has aesthetic and practical challenges. The biggest, Crowley, says, was “focusing on the time aspect, which in the film is different from what you get in the novel”. The Dickensianstyle book takes its time to get from start to end, a structure that is fine, implies Crowley, if “you were going to do a ten-hour mini-series for television”. The task of telling the story in a single, feature-length film, however, was achieved by “removing the linearity of starting here and finishing there, which allows you to move back and forth in a way that also makes it more emotional”.

After his theatre work at London’s Old Vic is complete, Crowley is primed to bring another acclaimed (albeit much shorter, less structurally complex) novel to big-screen life – Midwinter Break by Bernard MacLaverty. The technical push and pull of both disciplines suit his skillset and experience. It seems the memory of his (nominal) first actor’s note to

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N A O M I C A M P B E L L F O R N E W B R I D G E S I LV E R W A R E

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INTERVIEW

THE LIKES OF JOHN CROWLEY

WARNER BROS PICTURES

MOVIES “Right now, it’s Rolling Thunder Revue: A Bob Dylan Story by Martin Scorsese. Both Dylan and Scorsese are in fine, mischievous form doing a bit of mythmaking. A further bonus is that it has a show-stealing performance by Joni Mitchell as she sings in the living room of fellow Canadian songwriter Gordon Lightfoot.”

Jonathan Pryce remains firmly lodged. “You learn quickly enough that your job as a director, certainly in theatre work, is to help actors, not to teach them anything.”

The collaborative process, he defines, is efficiently clearing a path so that actors can “do their very best. In a way, every time you start new work, the slate gets wiped clean, and that doesn’t matter whether you’re working in a tiny studio theatre or directing a huge movie star.”

From working with actors, be they relatively unknown or high profile such as Saoirse Ronan, Colin Farrell, Cate Blanchett, Cillian Murphy, Michael Caine, Eric Bana, and (in The Goldfinch) Nicole Kidman, Crowley contends the task at hand is always the same: take things seriously.

“Movie stars don’t come any more serious about their work than Nicole Kidman. She is a delightful person, yet when it comes to the work it is really clear what she is about. It is not about A-listers; it is not about glamour.

It’s actually about someone who is really focused on trying to hit a target on a film set, as a darts player would a bullseye. My job is to spot what it is that may, or may not, be

working – whether it’s about the set, the shot, or something else – and to get that out of the way.”

And what about Crowley? Does he have a good measure of himself from those early days to now as a theatre and film director?

He has been fortunate, he accepts, to have worked “on really beautiful material, and I love that”.

If you can stay in touch with what you love about a piece of work, he says, then you have a chance to make something decent of it. Second-guessing, he is quick to emphasise, doesn’t work for him.

“You look back on your career and it has an odd shape,” he adds. “And of course it does, because you are who you are – it’s your own shape, not to celebrate or despair about but to accept. I’m happy with the work. There are things I’ve done that didn’t work out so well but they’re the ones that really teach you what to do next.

As always.”

The Goldfinch is on general release from September 27. A Very Expensive Poison, Old Vic Theatre, London, runs until October 5.

MUSIC “Currently, it’s The Thompson Fields by the Maria Schneider Orchestra, released in 2017. While working on The Goldfinch in New York, a friend took me to see her perform in Midtown Manhattan’s Birdland Jazz Club and it was one of the best live events of any sort I’ve attended.”

BOOKS “While preparing to direct the new Lucy Prebble play based on Luke Harding’s A Very Expensive Poison, a jawdropping account of the poisoning of Alexander Litvinenko on the streets of London, I read two of the most outstanding – and terrifying – books I’ve ever come across: We Need to Talk About Putin,

by Mark Galeotti and The Road to Unfreedom by Timothy Snyder. For a little light relief, I’m loving The Ministry of Truth by Dorian Lynskey, published earlier this year. It’s a fabulous, entertaining ‘biography’ of George Orwell’s book, 1984 and why it remains perpetually relevant.”

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Immerse yourself in Hollywood glamour.

Take a guided tour of the working factory floor and meet the people behind the traditional craft practiced at Newbridge Silverware since 1934. Learn about the time honoured processes and truelife stories at the heart of one of Ireland’s most well-known and treasured brands.

Browse through the complete range of much loved Irish designed products in our stylish showroom. Here you will find all of the collections on offer from our jewellery and giftware to homeware and tableware. Tax free shopping for eligible customers from outside of the EU.

The award winning Café Carleton features freshly prepared local food with vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or a sumptuous afternoon tea in a relaxed, stylish and friendly ambience.

Live piano music Monday to Friday mornings.

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TOUR

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FINAL FRONTIER It promises to be an epic Rugby World Cup in Japan, as the Irish team dreams of victory. They’ll be cheered on by the whole nation, where professional rugby runs deep through Women’s and Sevens teams as well as within the refereeing ranks.

WORDS CLÍONA FOLEY PHOTOGRAPHS ANTHONY WOODS

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o two words in team sport resonate quite like “World Cup”. Once every four years, the world’s best players face off in these epic tournaments, lit up by unforgettable individual wizardry. Throw in the might of modern rugby and there’s an extra gladitorial quality to the contest. Ireland hosted the last women’s RWC in 2017 and now the latest battle for the men’s trophy, first contested 32 years ago, is upon us.

Joe Schmidt was only 21 then, playing for his native province in New Zealand and lucky enough to be among the 604,500 who got to see the inaugural Rugby World Cup from the stands. Johnny Sexton’s earliest World Cup memory is of 1995, watching wide-eyed from afar as a giant called Jonah Lomu steamrolled Ireland’s first day out. Even stronger is his memory of 2003 and the inspiring sight of Brian O’Driscoll scoring a try and drop goal to help Ireland improbably put it up to the Wallabies. Now Schmidt and Sexton are the ones making the memories.

THE KICKER

JOHNNY SEXTON For an indomitable warrior such as Johnny Sexton, having to sit out the 2015 World Cup quarter-final against Argentina injured was torturous. He’s also a little haunted by losing to Wales in 2011, when victory would have earned Ireland a semi-final against France. “But we cannot carry baggage with us from previous campaigns,” says the totemic fly-half who started Ireland’s magical 2018 by kicking “Le Drop” and ended it as World Player of the Year. Ice-

Ticket sales for the 2015 World Cup were 2.4 million but only four countries have ever won it.

Ireland have made the last eight six times but have never reached a semi-final. Losing to Argentina in 2015, when devastated by injuries, was their latest quarter-final heartbreak. They were (almost ...) unbeaten in a sensational 2018, yet Schmidt has a chance to outdo all that in his final act as head coach.

Since the first men’s World Cup, the IRFU has also expanded. It also cultivates the women’s game, Sevens rugby and professional referees, Ireland’s many teams attracting more supporters than ever.

As proud partners of Irish rugby, Aer Lingus stands shoulder to shoulder with all those strands who will form Ireland’s famous ‘16th man’ in Japan 2019. “The fans always create such incredible memories for us, especially at World Cups,” Sexton says. “We want to make the most of this opportunity, to enjoy it but also give the fans back something, to do something really special together this time.”

cool on and off the pitch, he’s not panicked

by Ireland’s lesser form in this year’s Six Nations, nor suggestions that they may have over-cooked things for RWC 2019.

“I don’t think we’ve peaked too early,” he says calmly. “We know that, on our day, we can beat anyone but also that, on any day, we can lose to anyone as well. That mixture bodes well for us. That’s why we’ve been working extremely hard over the summer, to make sure we try and close those very small margins.” Sexton has only been to Japan once before, as a schoolboy. “We were playing against the top schools from

New Zealand, Australia and South Africa, all staying in dormitories. Eating rice and fish for breakfast was pretty different for a 16-year-old!” He returns a global superstar and also husband to Laura and dad to three youngsters. World Cups are real pressure-cookers that also separate players from their loved ones for months. “You start missing them after a few days,” Sexton admits. “At the last one, when we arrived in our hotel rooms, we found a framed picture of our families. The IRFU secretly contacted our wives and partners to set it up. It was a lovely gesture that helped.”

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PEOPLE

THE CAPTAIN CIARA GRIFFIN

Teacher, farmer, fitness instructor, international back row and Irish captain. It is genuinely hard to know how Ciara Griffin (25) fits it all in. The youngest of a family of four girls and now a primary-school teacher in Tralee CBS, rugby is in her DNA, thanks to her father Dan, a local club stalwart.

Chucking the oval ball around on the back lawn was as much part of growing up as helping out on the family’s beef farm in Ballymacelligott. She was also inspired by two local heroes, Irish internationals Siobhan Fleming and Helen Brosnan.

“Helen was my neighbour from over the road. They made it more real and easier for me to want to become a rugby player and were such a help to me.” Griffin too is already giving back, advising the Munster under-18s on fitness this summer and relishing the generational changes she already sees. “Munster under-18s was my first experience of representational rugby but these girls now are having camps, training all day, getting nutrition advice, which helps them slot in easily when they get to the senior ranks.” Since making her Six Nations debut against Wales in 2012, Griffin has amassed 28 caps and played in a World Cup. She may lead a team in transition but it keeps attracting younger talent and record crowds each season. “There’s a real shift in the mindset. My young cousins are playing at eight and nine.

When our club ran the ‘Give It a Try’ programme, we had over 40 girls most nights for eight weeks. Hopefully I’ll be watching some of them playing in the green jersey in future.”

THE COACH

JOE SCHMIDT

Joe Schmidt was not yet a world-renowned rugby mastermind when he first came to Ireland 28 years ago. An unknown 25-year-old school teacher, taking a year out to be player/coach for Mullingar RFC, he also coached local team Wilson’s Hospital to a surprise Leinster Schools’ Division A (second tier) Cup. He still lights up at that memory and recalls, in fine detail, their five-try final. Once a teacher, always a teacher. Schmidt is famously meticulous about his rugby homework and has repeatedly got A+ since becoming Ireland’s head coach in 2010. But there’s still one glaring omission on his own report card – getting them past a World Cup quarter-final. Schmidt and wife Kelly are returning to family in New Zealand afterwards, though probably not until the youngest of their four children completes his upcoming transition year at school. So, as his last act with Ireland, RWC2019 both “excites and terrifies” him.

Geographically, climatically and logistically it offers even a coach of Schmidt’s vast experience serious challenges. “With a squad of 31 it’s very tight. In 2015 we had the comfort of a 45-minute flight from Ireland to get in a replacement player. This time they’ve got to cross ten time zones.

And even if they arrive in time for a game, are they going to be ready to go?” That’s just one part of the devilishly complex matrix he faces yet his hope is simple. “I’d love this team to express themselves but as a really combative collective. If you’re one or the other I don’t think it’ll be enough.

You have to be both and a little bit more to win a World Cup, but they’ve already worked hard enough to be good enough.”

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PEOPLE

THE CROSSOVER STAR LOUISE GALVIN

RENAISSANCE MAN

TOMMY BOWE

He may not be playing in this rugby World Cup yet Tommy Bowe will still be firmly in the spotlight. Since retiring in April 2018, the flying Ulster, Ireland and Lions winger has made a remarkably quick career change to sports broadcaster. Lots of ex-players find work as analysts and Bowe’s quick wit made him ideal, but he wanted a more long-term career and is currently adding a diploma in journalism to his degree in engineering and business Masters.

“I could talk rugby all day long as a pundit but the job as a broadcaster is very different. I need to keep the show flowing, ask the right questions of our panel and hit the breaks and cues at the right time.” After dipping his toe into presenting RTÉ’s Getaways holiday show, Bowe quickly became Eir Sport’s Pro14 anchorman and hopes to cover other sports too. First comes this huge step up, hosting more than 40 live World Cup games “with a truckload of people in your ear shouting at you. I’m being thrown into the deep end but this is a massive opportunity for me too and, as a player, I always enjoyed the big games. “Rugby taught me that, if you do your preparation right, you’ll be ready and confident, although live TV is very off-the-cuff and can throw curveballs at you,” he laughs, name-dropping impish former teammates-turned-pundits Donncha O’Callaghan and Peter Stringer as the guiltiest parties.

“Ireland has a great mix of youth and experience and I’m really excited about their chances,” Bowe says. So, will he hold it together if they reach the final? “Sure, that’s the dream! When it comes to games like that I always think ‘less is more’. The game and the spectacle will speak for itself. It’s just our job to explain that to the people on their sofas.”

Louise Galvin once lost a friendly bet on a GAA match that proved to be Irish rugby’s gain. The multi-talented Kerrywoman had already played in an All-Ireland ladies’ football final (2012) and starred for Limerick’s UL Huskies, then queens of Irish basketball.

But her forfeit for that losing prediction on a big GAA game was to go for a session with UL Bohemian’s women’s rugby team. Among those training was Fiona Coughlan, then Irish captain, and Galvin was immediately hooked. Getting an IRFU Sevens contract for centralised daily training in Dublin meant giving up her fulltime job as a physiotherapist in May 2015 and Ireland’s women qualified to be a core team in the HSBC World Sevens Series in late 2015. This year they made their first semi-final (Sydney) and Tipperary flier Amee-Leigh Murphy Crowe was the entire World Series’ top try-scorer – the first nonKiwi or Australian to achieve that honour. Sevens rugby debuted in the 2016 Olympics.

The Irish women only narrowly failed to qualify for Tokyo 2020 but the men’s team still have a shot in next year’s “repechage” and Olympic qualification is the dream for all. Galvin loves the game’s dynamism and equality, plus the sociability of its Super Bowl-like tournaments. “Our World Series is going from six to eight tournaments next season.

Six will be played alongside the men’s team and we train alongside, and sometimes with, them,” she explains. “These are ultra-competitive tournaments that attract crowds of up to 50,000 but are so much fun for fans. If we do everything right on the pitch and grow the game, then, down the line, I’d really love to see Ireland host a World Series tournament.”

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2019 RUGBY WORLD CUP DIARY DATES Group A September 22: Ireland v Scotland September 28: Ireland v Japan October 3: Ireland v Russia October 12: Ireland v Samoa Quarter-finals: October 19-20 Semi-finals: October 26-27 Final: November 2

THE REFEREE

JOY NEVILLE

Joy Neville has always been a trailblazer. A world-class Number Eight in Ireland’s historic Grand Slam team in 2013, she never dreamt about refereeing but, once persuaded, has rapidly and repeatedly smashed glass ceilings. She was, and remains, the only woman among the seven referees first awarded professional contracts by the IRFU in 2017. Milestones to date include reffing the 2017 Women’s World Cup final, being the first woman to referee in the Challenge Cup (2017), the first to ref a men’s international (2017) and the first to referee a Pro14 game (2018). Being a woman makes Neville exceptional in men’s rugby but it is her expertise and judgment that sets her apart and she was World Rugby’s “Referee of the Year 2017”. Yet the 36-year-

old Limerick official hasn’t even rested on that laurel.

“Referees are only as good as their last game. That’s the approach I take, by preparing as well as I can so I’ve no regrets. I’d always prefer the conversation to be about the game and the referee doing a good job, not about gender. But if I normalise women refereeing, that’s a bonus. There’s still a bit to go but I’ve already seen a big difference since I first started.” Working the Fifteens and Sevens circuits across the globe makes her the ultimate frequent flier. Biarritz has been her favourite stop so far and she always brings her own pillow, sprayed with a scent from home – a clever tip from ref colleague John Lacey. “Sleeping well is vital because refereeing is as challenging mentally as it is physically.” Her tip for RWC2019? “I genuinely believe this will be the most open World Cup ever. There are four teams capable of winning it and Ireland is definitely one of them.”

LEAPS & BOUNDS

Join Inishowen’s fun-loving, outdoorsy set who have found Ireland’s most northerly headland to be full of adventure and charm.

WORDS YVONNE GORDON PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID SCIORA

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“D

o you want to try and go through that channel again?” asks John. “No,” I think to myself, but I still follow him over to the rock. We’re at Fort Dunree in Co Donegal, on the rugged west side of Inishowen, Ireland’s most northerly peninsula. Inishowen – the name comes from “Eoghan’s Island” in Irish – is also the start of the Wild Atlantic Way’s coastal route and I’m here for a few days to explore this area at the very top of Ireland.

I’ve just been feeling defeated by the ocean’s power but I realise that it was probably more of a human-powered error.

Myself and John Harkin, a guide at Inish Adventures (inishadventures.com), set off earlier from a tiny pier under the fort in our kayaks for some gentle paddling around the bay. Dunree is near the mouth of Lough Swilly, the glacial fjord between the Inishowen and Fanad peninsulas.

The water is calm and being right under

INISHOWEN

the cliffs and seeing how the rock is layered is fascinating. Some black guillemots show off with stunt water landings nearby, while a cormorant stands motionless on a rock. When we navigate a small channel between the rocks, that’s where it all goes slightly wrong. I have trouble directing the kayak through the gap and let’s just say that I perform an expert parking job by elevating the front of the kayak onto a rock.

However, there’s no damage and I am soon back on the water again. Once I’ve a better handle on steering, I have another go at the channel – this time passing smoothly between the rocks.

Things get interesting when we paddle to some sea caves under the cliffs, which are accessible when the conditions are right. From the outside, the caves look dark but as we go in, the rocks in the walls and roof light up with red and green. It’s an amazing perspective to get on sea cliffs and it’s tempting to float here for a few hours

Opening pages, rock diving and pier rendezvous at Fort Dunree. This page, clockwise from top right, horsing around by Tullagh Bay; Shroove Beach and its truncated lighthouse; Kieran Doherty, the award-winning chef at Nancy’s Barn.

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but there is so much to explore in the area.

I am soon on the road north driving through Mamore Gap, where grazing sheep have scenic views down over the lough. I drive towards Malin Head, Ireland’s most northerly point. Here, guide Bren Whelan (donegalclimbing.ie) talks me through the area’s layers of history and how this is where Ireland’s geological timeline starts. We’re sitting at Banba’s Crown, looking at Inishtrahull, a small island offshore, where the rocks are estimated to be 1,780 million years old (by comparison, the Giant’s Causeway to the east is just a young pebble at 60 million years old).

From here, we can see sea stacks and a lighthouse. It seems remote but there’s a Napoleonic lookout tower and an old telegraph and radio signal station from where Guglielmo Marconi sent some of the first radio messages to ships in 1902.

An “Eire” sign on the cliff was a signpost for planes during World War II and, more recently, the area was used as a location for Star Wars: The Last Jedi (this is where the Millennium Falcon was built).

We walk to the end of the trail at Hell’s Hole, seeing oystercatchers, shags and gannets on the rocks, admiring purple sea thrift and oxeye daisies and hearing tales of passing basking sharks and dolphins; the gulls echoing the tales far below in the rocky gorges.

It’s no surprise that Malin Head was a setting for another galaxy, as the area sometimes has an otherworldly feeling.

On a road in what seems the middle

Left, from top, minding the gap at Fort Dunree; aerial revelations at Malin Head; Michael John’s Pub along Shroove Coast. Opposite, clockwise from top left, bijou books on Culdaff Beach; a sunny morning at Riversdale Country House; seasoned surfer Daniel Gallanagh on Tullagh Bay Beach; fancy flatbreads at Wild Strands Caife.

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sands and a barbecue, until someone realises there’s no milk for the tea and the comedy of checking if anyone in the car park has any ensures that there’s no mistaking we’re in Ireland.

Doagh Famine Village (doaghfaminevillage.com) on Doagh Isle is a fascinating museum telling of the economic and social history of Ireland from the 1800s up to the present day, through a series of clever exhibits. Pat Doherty, who grew up in one of the cottages, explains everything about the landlord/tenant setup and how Ireland’s recent bank bail-out

It all seems exotic – surf boards, sun, turquoise waters, golden sands and a barbecue ...

This page, top, a road to somewhere at Mamore Gap; feline relaxed at Riversdale Country House. Following page, rock of ages at Malin Head.

of nowhere is The Curiosity Shop, crammed with everything from antiques and old signs to glassware and crockery.

I ask owner Peter McAvenue what his most curious item is and he shows me an old train ticket to Derry – for a bicycle, “accompanied by passenger”. It’s not for sale but he points out a comical Trump moneybox that is.

In Ballyliffin, to the west, there are lunchtime queues to get into Nancy’s Barn (see “Eat” on page 60) for Kieran Doherty’s chowder. Two years ago, the local chef won the World Chowder Championships (the recipe is secret) and tells me he’s working on his next recipe. Ballyliffin is also famous for its golf links course but, behind it, is a long beach where, on the day I visit, the clear sea is blue-green and the sand shimmers in the sun.

Surf coach Dan Gallanagh from Inishowen Surf School (inishowen surfschool.com) tells me that there’s treasure on a rock offshore, but the prize for me is a line of surfboards ready for us to take to the water. The swell is not huge but it’s an enjoyable couple of hours catching a few sets of waves. Some locals set up a barbecue on the beach and invite me over for a burger. It all seems exotic – surf boards, sun, turquoise waters, golden

echoed history. It leaves myself and the Americans on my tour – whose ancestors emigrated from here – lots to think about.

On the east side of Malin Head, I stop to admire Kinnagoe Bay, sheltered between two headlands and, further along, Inishowen Head. The harbour at Greencastle is busy with fishing boats and regular ferries across to Magilligan in Northern Ireland. There are traditional boats from the area in the Inishowen Maritime Museum & Planetarium (inishowenmaritime.com) on the harbour front.

My last stop is Redcastle, which faces Lough Foyle, the waterway between Donegal and Northern Ireland. As the sun sets, the hills on the opposite shore take on a gilded hue and, later that night, I see the glow in the sky from the lights of Derry and it prepares me for a return from a magical few days on the “Island of Eoghan” to urban life.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS EAT CRAIC Traditional pub The Rusty Nail, not far from Clonmany, is where to tuck into local seafood such as chowder, prawns and seabass – the chef’s brothers are both fishermen. Steaks and burgers also feature on the menu and it’s the type of place where you’ll want to accompany your food with a creamy pint of stout, moving into the front bar afterwards for the live music session. (Crossconnell, Clonmany, Co Donegal, 074 937 6116) SEASHORE It’s all things kelp at the healthy Wild Strands Caife in Malin Head – where cakes, brownies, scones and breads have a pinch of local seaweed from West Donegal. Chef/owner William McElhinney serves fresh flatbreads cooked in a wood-fire oven, with toppings such as tasty spiced beef with onion marmalade, or goat’s cheese with beetroot hummus. (Malin Head Community Centre, Co Donegal, 085 105 3893; wildstrands.com) AWARDS Local man Kieran Doherty bought an old hay barn, took his grandmother’s chowder recipe, added a Spanish twist, went on to win the all-Ireland cook off and then the 2017 World Seafood Chowder Championship in Rhode Island, USA – and the rest is history. As well as the obligatory chowder to chow down at Nancy’s Barn, there are delicious seafood platters and hot dishes – and you’ll usually get a greeting from Kieran himself. Open until 6pm daily, and late Monday and Friday. (Ballyliffin, Co Donegal, 074 937 6556; nancysbarn.ie)

STAY CHARM You’ll get a warm welcome at Glen House, set in a quiet, country spot outside Clonmany. It dates from the late 18th century but has been charmingly modernised inside. There’s a cute craft shop and ice-cream parlour in the courtyard and afternoon tea is available by appointment. Make time to walk the kilometre to the Glenevin Waterfall, beside the house. B&B from €85 per room. (Straid, Clonmany, Co Donegal, 074 937 6745; glenhouse.ie)

FARM Another country house, this time set on a working farm outside the town of Carndonagh, Riversdale Country House is a peaceful countryside escape at the end of a long driveway, where you’ll most likely be greeted by donkeys in the front paddock. You can also spot ducks, geese, cows and pet pigs along the way and children can interact with the animals. B&B from €85 per room.

(Carndonagh, Co Donegal, 074 937 4017; riversdalecountryhouse.com) RESORT The Redcastle Oceanfront Golf and Spa Hotel has sea views, a pool and spa plus a nine-hole golf course on the grounds. In-house dining options include The Edge on the waterside or the more informal Captain’s Bar, or walk across the connecting bridge to the neighbouring property The Boathouse gastropub. B&B from €95 – for an extra treat, book a balcony room or suite and have breakfast delivered. (Redcastle, Co Donegal, 074 938 5555; redcastlehoteldonegal.com)

DRINK LIVELY The Front Bar at McGrory’s Hotel is where all the action is (the Star Wars crew dropped in here for a singsong during filming). It’s decorated with

timber salvaged from old dock pilings and the open fire gives it a cosy atmosphere; regular live traditional music sessions turn it into a buzzy spot. There’s also a bar menu for casual dining or book in to the Front Room restaurant on the other side of the hotel for something more substantial. (Culdaff, Co Donegal, 074 937 9104; mcgrorys.ie) STYLISH Popular for its cocktails and bar menu, The Treehouse Bar and Restaurant is a stylish and spacious spot just outside the town of Muff on the southerly end of the peninsula.

Tuck into bar food or reserve a table in the separate restaurant section. Don’t miss the Bog Hopper Beer from a local microbrewery – there’s a selection of craft beers served on draft or in bottles.

(Ardmore, Muff, Co Donegal, 074 938 4873; treehousebar.ie)

SMART TIPS Surfing and kayaking locations on Inishowen depend on weather conditions on the day – try horse riding along one of the peninsula’s beaches with Tullagh Bay Equestrian Centre (tullaghbayequestrian. ie). For more info about what to see and do in the area, visit wildatlanticway.com.

GREAT LAKE

GREAT SHAKES

Could September be the best month to visit Toronto?

Balmy temperatures and smaller crowds make for a lovely last hoorah before heading inside for the long and deep freeze.

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS DRAGANA PARAMENTIC

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F

ive years ago American Vogue declared Toronto’s Queen Street West one of the world’s “coolest neighbourhoods” for its exceptional street style. This honour had a ripple effect on the city as a whole, with other tastemakers (and marketeers) jumping on the bandwagon to investigate its independent art, design and fashion boutiques, galleries, niche book shops, nitro-hugging cafés and craft-beer bars, in search of “a scene”, climaxing with Gwyneth Paltrow having opened Canada’s first Goop MRKT pop-up shop in Toronto this summer. But don’t hold that against it: Toronto was cooler long before Paltrow discovered the apparent joys of the jade egg, largely because the city has always been doing its own thing and in a variety of ways.

Toronto routinely ranks highly in the world’s “Safest”, “Most Liveable” and “Most Multicultural City” lists, which is infinitely more appealing than any Vogue or Goop endorsement (it is also Racoon Capital of the World). That more than half of the population hails from outside Canada makes it particularly attractive to holidaymakers increasingly exasperated by its southern neighbour. Toronto has the largest Portuguese population outside

Gwyneth Paltrow opened Canada’s first Goop MRKT pop-up shop in Toronto – but don’t hold that against it Portugal, a jumbo Chinese, Irish, British, East Indian and Polish community and more Tibetans than you can shake a prayer wheel at. This also makes for a terrific restaurant scene.

From September 5-15, red carpets will be unrolled for the annual Toronto International Film Festival (tiff.net), a star-studded affair not least due to the city’s plethora of film and TV shoots; it frequently “doubles” for New York (Suits, Suicide Squad) , Chicago (Mean Girls) – and even Gilead; ironically, the Distillery District (thedistillerydistrict.com) has been a regular set-piece for The Handmaid’s Tale, its 19thcentury industrial architecture beautifully restored into a chi-chi, yet unpretentious, network of bars, restaurants, art galleries

and boutiques. In the 1860s it was the world’s biggest distillery: now it’s one of the city’s biggest – and locally appreciated – tourist attractions.

This month the city also invites the world to consider its fine art prowess, hosting the inaugural Toronto Biennial of Art from September 21 until December 1 (torontobiennial.org). Reflecting the metropolis’ multi-ethnic demographic, the event curated by Candice Hopkins and Tairone Bastien, will showcase more than 100 works by artists from over 40 countries, including indigenous practitioners. Most exhibitions and programmes will take place in venues along the waterfront, between

Opening pages, clockwise, Toronto’s skyline as seen from a boat taxi; Jenevieve Narbay mixes it up at Oretta; a love heart marks the spot of the Distillery District; strawberry surprises at Café Cancan.

This page, top, eyeful towers at Hotel X Toronto and above, Shehzad Hamza and Stéphane Dubois, owners of hip Bandit Brewery. Next page, clockwise, Oretta’s Fuego di Puglia cocktail; a Café Cancan interior; there might be giants at the Distillery District; rooftop pool at the amenity-rich Hotel X.

TORONTO

Etobicoke Creek and Ashbridges Bay, but if you want to spread your net wider, make time for visiting not just the heavyweights – the Art Gallery of Ontario (ago.ca) and Museum of Contemporary Art (museumofcontemporaryart.ca) – but also the Ryerson Image Centre for photography (ryersonimagecentre. ca), Gardiner Museum for ceramics (gardinermuseum.on.ca) and Aga Khan for

Grabbing several neighbourhoods by the handlebars early in your visit is an efficient way of deciding where to return Islamic and Iranian art (agakhanmuseum. org), each of which has interesting outdoor spaces to enjoy during the fresh autumn months.

Toronto isn’t the most cycle-friendly of cities, compared to Victoria, Vancouver

or Montréal. But grabbing several neighbourhoods by both handlebars early in your visit is an efficient way of deciding where to return: for a structured, educational ride that won’t scare the bejaysus out of you, book with Toronto Bicycle Tours (see “Travel Essentials” on page 70). Few cities have something as vast and beautiful as Lake Ontario lapping at its shores, either. For the committed cyclist, there’s a designated Great Lakes Waterfront Trail (waterfronttrail.org) that stretches over 3,000 kilometres and takes in 140 coastal communities. But if you’re getting saddle sore just thinking about it, consider renting two wheels from the Bike Share scheme and taking the ferry from Jack Leyton Terminal to Toronto Islands (torontoisland.com), a five-kilometre-long, pedestrianised network of 15 islands, connected by bridges and pathways (the titchy Billy Bishop Airport is on its southwestern tip). Cyclists, sun-seekers, beach-bathers, paddle-boaters, kayakers, rollerbladers, twitchers, naturists and strollers come here in their droves between spring and autumn. The islands’ cafés, bars, amusement park and other diversions

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close during winter, which makes for an atmospherically eerie visit.

September is the last month of the season for catching a big-name concert at the excellent Budweiser Stage (livenation. com), which this month plays host to Lizzie, Bastille and also Lenny Kravitz (who is presumably staying at the city’s Bisha hotel, for which his interior design company masterminded an entire floor?). This writer saw Arcade Fire at this amphitheatre last summer and was astonished by not just the band but the custom-built complex’s topnotch food and drinks trucks (very potent margaritas, as I fuzzily recall …). Buzzing off the music and camaraderie as you leave the concert venue afterwards, drink up those Toronto skyline views as well as the locally brewed beer in the outdoor waterside bar.

On the subject of beer … there are more than 40 active breweries in Toronto – one of many insightful nuggets gleaned on a Beer Makes History Better Walking Tour (torontourbanadventures.com), one of Intrepid Urban Adventures’ more lubricating offerings. Our affable guide, Mike, talked us through the history of the city, explaining its changes in fortunes at the hands of

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Previous page, the Distillery District is a place in which to linger. This page, above, Central Island on Toronto Islands provides welcome respite from the bustle of Downtown and, right, popcorn at the ready for the annual outdoor movie festival at Christie Pits Park. Following page, Oretta’s Art Deco inspired wall art.

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French, English, Scottish and Irish colonies as we supped myriad beers at brewpubs, including the subterranean taproom C’est What? (cestwhat.com), near St Lawrence’s Market, which was pouring craft pints long before they were fashionable, ie since the 1980s; Betty’s (bettysonking.com), a perky pub on King Street East, with winning beer flights, super snacks and a where-did-theafternoon-go patio, and Mill Street Beer Hall (millstreetbrewery.com), a lose-awhole-evening colossus in the Distillery District. It’s not in the guided tour but make time for Bandit Brewery on Dundas Street West (banditbrewery.ca), whose own-blend beers and twinkly patio are a match made in tipsy heaven.

Another city highlight is St Lawrence Market (stlawrencemarket.com), a covered public market unlike most counterparts in Ireland – the few that we have are either prohibitively expensive or under threat of being bulldozed by developers. But at St Lawrence you can taste-test unctuous Eiswein (made with grapes harvested near

Niagara Falls during subzero temperatures) at Wine County Merchants, jars of gloriously fiery Kolznik’s Mustard and follow in the late Anthony Bourdain’s tastebuds with a peameal bacon sandwich at Carousel Bakery, saving an obscenely fine pecan butter tart for afters. Different cultures and flavours under one roof, an echo of Toronto’s understated, mosaic character, sums up what makes Toronto actually cool – and forever in vogue.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY

EAT

SKYCRAPING Hotel X Toronto is more like a village than a fancy hotel.

Comprising probably every amenity known to man – rooftop pool and bar, art gallery, restaurants, cinema rooms, squash and tennis courts, Guerlain spa, business centre and considerably more – it’s as much a hit with the leisure crowd as it is with businesspeople attending the nearby Enercare Convention Centre.

There’s even a Departure Lounge for guests who have late flights to catch, while the Budweiser Stage – big-name gigs – is across the road. Arguably the X’s finest USP is its spectacular views of Downtown and Lake Ontario, and, depending on your room’s outlook, you can watch light aircraft come and go from Toronto Island Airport. Oddly hypnotic. From CAD $287.

(111 Princes’ Boulevard, +1 855 943 9300; hotelxtoronto.com)

BRUNCH Eminently Instagrammable for its pink and turquoise interior and attractive patio, Café Cancan bistro is where brunches prevail at weekdays as well as weekends. As its name suggests, expect a Gallic twang: AAA tenderloin tartare with quail egg and frites, Croque Madame and various iterations of oeuf.

Don’t worry, there are also buttermilk pancakes and Barry’s Burger (Barry being its chef/co-owner Victor Barry, who also runs the Italian restaurant Piano Piano across the street. (89 Harbord St, +1 647 341 3100; cafecancan.com)

EMPOWERING Despite Verity being a private members’ club for women, male guests are also welcome at its four-suite boutique hotel The Ivy at Verity. The immediate neighbourhood may be rough around the edges but the accommodation – and club, whose diverse members include everyone from city politicians to artists – is a true haven. All rooms have balconies facing into a quiet inner courtyard bar/restaurant, luxuriant with trees, guest bathrooms are ginormous and founder Mary Aiken’s detail-driven attention is evident in every nook, cranny and staff member. Excellent. B&B from CAD $351. (111D Queen St E, +1 416 368 6006; theivyatverity.com) SELF-CONTAINED Queen and Dundas West get all the column inches for their coolness but Trinity Bellwoods is a leafy, residential enclave of hip. Live like a local at Steve and Victoria’s self-contained Airbnb flat at the bottom of their cute garden, correctly listed as “Bright Modern Guesthouse in Vibrant Trinity-Bellwoods”.

Gallery-white walls, a fully kitted mod-con kitchen and a slick bathroom make for a beyond-comfortable stay, while guests have their own barbecue. From CAD $135. (Trinity Bellwoods; airbnb.ie/rooms/ plus/14935968)

LUNCH Also macaron-hued is elegant Oretta, whose white vaulted ceiling is complemented by a gold and blush-coloured feature wall, below. Italian classics – antipasti, aperitivo, pasta, pizza, dolce – do not reinvent the wheel, however they feel reinvigorated here, thanks to crisp and spry ingredients.

Large floor-to-ceiling windows on to its street-side patio make for a light and airy people-spotting prospect: order a Negroni (or two …) and watch the afternoon, and well-heeled locals, float pleasurably by.

(633 King St W, +1 416 944 1932; oretta.to)

DINNER Too much millennial pink for one trip? Leave your rose-tinted specs at the hotel and look with fresh eyes at Alo, which frequently tops not just “Toronto’s Best Restaurant” lists but also Best in Canada. Chef Patrick Kriss ritually impresses diners with his five-course tasting menu, sharing platters and making the likes of Brussels sprouts legitimately exciting. Its serene colour palette of greys, bottle green and pale blue is at once laid-back and luxurious – rather like Kriss’ dishes. (163 Spadina Ave, +1 416 260 2222; alorestaurant.com)

SMART TIPS NAVIGATION Get the lay of the land with Toronto Bicycle Tours, exploring different neighbourhoods, including the bohemian Kensington Market and the harbourside.

From CAD $60. torontobicycletours.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to TORONTO daily.

Ireland is a leader in global FDI and attracts innovative companies from early stage ventures to multinational heavyweights. Philip Lee is a top tier law firm advising clients at all stages of their inward investment activities.

The firm’s tax team offers focused and commercial solutions to both domestic and international businesses. We work closely with the IDA and other government agencies dedicated to developing enterprise.

Talk to our experts Amanda-Jayne Comyn, Tax Partner ajcomyn@philiplee.ie

7/8 Wilton Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland T: +353 (0)1 237 3700 E: info@philiplee.ie @philipleelaw #whyireland

© 2019 Philip Lee. All rights reserved. Commercially sensitive and confidential.

Gavin McGuire, Tax Consultant gmcguire@philiplee.ie

‘Law Firm of the Year’ 1 Irish Law Awards 2019

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10 FINE WINERIES Shayna Sappington raises a glass to a cork-popping selection of worthy wineries.

1 MARQUÉS DE RISCAL ELCIEGO, SPAIN Located in “The City of Wine”, Marqués de Riscal is one of the oldest Rioja wineries. After hundreds of years, its perfected wines have gone on to win awards and hearts of wine lovers internationally. Paired with these superb wines is the estate’s stunning “chateau”, a modern masterpiece designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry. The building is equally as glorious as its Neoclassical-styled rooms, dripping in plush Cabernet colours and chocolatey tones. Try their organic sauvignon blanc alongside traditional Echaurren cuisine, prepared by Michelin-star chef Francis Paniego. marquesderiscal.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bilbao nine times per week.

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FINE WINERIES

2 CAVE B ESTATE WINERY WASHINGTON STATE, USA Nearly 40 years ago, Vincent Bryan and his wife Carol purchased land “in the middle of nowhere” surrounded by Sunset Cliffs and a blue ribbon of Columbia River. They were surprised to find the soil had been marked by the ancient Missoula floods and carried volcanic rock, resulting in remarkable micro-zones that create different, delicious flavours when blending grapes. Now, the estate hosts a world-famous amphitheatre in an acoustic gorge, is neighbour to an inn and spa resort, and hosts numerous winery experiences. caveb.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Seattle five times per week.

3 CASCINA SPINEROLA ASTI, ITALY

This Italian getaway has it all: enchanting scenery, ample vineyards, a world-class restaurant, a rustic hotel and a family farm – guaranteeing the restaurant’s food is as fresh as it gets. Try traditional Monferrato dishes paired with Spinerola’s finest wines, made from the family’s 100-year-old vineyard.

Guests can enjoy a range of activities on the property, including cycling, tennis, ecological walks, horseback riding, golf and, for those more daring, adventure trails via suspension bridges. The perfect escape for families and adventurists alike. cascinaspinerola.it

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Milan Malpensa twice daily.

4 GLASS HOUSE WINERY VIRGINIA, USA On the Monticello Wine Trail, Jeff and Michelle Sanders have created an oenophile’s paradise at their bucolic boutique winery. Each Glass House guest is offered one of Michelle’s rich, homemade chocolates at tastings, followed by a visit to the onsite tropical conservatory, where the Sanders proudly explain their use of clay as an all-natural pesticide. As a true Virginian oasis, the Blue Ridge Mountains can be seen from your bedroom window, and trying their delectable chocolate wine is essential. glasshousewinery.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Washington Dulles daily.

THE WORLD’S MOST MAGNIFICENT CASTLE HOTEL C E L E B R AT I N G 8 0 Y E A R S O F H O S P I TA L I T Y Enter through grand stone gates to discover an 800-year-old castle and former home to the Guinness family. Overlooking Lough Corrib, Ashford Castle is renowned for its warm Irish hospitality, exceptional dining experiences and an unrivalled range of estate activities - all set within the magnificent 350-acre Ashford estate.

BEST OF THE BEST IN THE WORLD

by Virtuoso

Ashford Castle, Cong, Co. Mayo T: +353 (0) 9495 46003 | E: ashford@ashfordcastle.com ASHFORDCASTLE.COM

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6 DENBIES WINE ESTATE SURREY, ENGLAND Not only is Denbies England’s largest vineyard but it also has the country’s first carbon-neutral vineyard hotel.

With low-energy lighting, solar panels and electric car charging points, the wine estate holds Green Tourism Gold status. So, you can sip awardwinning wines guilt-free, surrounded by a picturesque panorama of the Surrey hills. Spend the weekend touring, tasting or exploring the 11-kilometre footpath amidst the vineyards. It’s a scene set for royalty – the estate has hosted members of the royal family, so keep your eyes peeled for glam guests. denbies.co.uk Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to London Gatwick five times daily.

5 FATTORIA L’AMOROSA SEMENTINA–GUDO, SWITZERLAND

Nestled in a lush gorge between sky-high mountains, Fattoria L’Amorosa is surrounded by one of the most beautiful vistas in the world. Stone-faced cottage meets country cabin in the estate’s cosy suites, adorned with wooden touches, hideaway lofts and baths carved from boulders. Outdoor terraces make the estate a true city escape as guests are submerged in tranquil, village vibes. However, don’t be fooled by its humble airs, the estate has quite the upscale restaurant, making it food heaven too. amorosa.ch Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Milan Malpensa twice daily.

7 TAKLER WINE ESTATE SZEKSZÁRD, HUNGARY

Eastern Europe isn’t often associated with fine wines but Hungary is having a moment. Although the Takler family has been in the winemaking business since the 1700s, the Celts were the first to establish Szekszárd as a wine region more than 2,000 years ago. Tastings here are of varietals, including the region’s reds, Kékfrankos and Kardaka – once a favourite of Franz Schubert, no less. The fairytale estate has stunning accommodation and a traditional menu with a modern twist, including local cheeses and poppy-seed bread pudding. takler.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Budapest four times per week.

DISCOVER THE HOME OF IRISH CRAFT AND DESIGN For the month of September, ScĂŠal celebrates the stories and the skills behind the Irish makers at the heart of Kilkenny and their personal journey from bench to store.

Visit our flagship store on Nassau Street, Dublin 2 for a series of visual and interactive experiences.

www.kilkennyshop.com

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8 PONTE WINERY SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, USA

Modelled on a Spanish mission, this inn in Temecula (the “Vineyard Valley”) captures the essence of SoCal’s wine scene.

Creamy stucco, striking colours and rounded arches frame the accommodation; the grounds, dotted with desert cacti and rich vineyards, wrap around a fourdiamond, luxury hotel. After a hot day among the vines, sipping on smooth sauvignons and sweet Beverinos (their trick is letting the grapes ripen late into the harvest season), cool off at the poolside bar and café. Enjoy fresh, locally sourced cuisine enclosed in a gorgeous garden. pontevineyardinn.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.

10 CHÂTEAU ORMES DE PEZ SAINT-ESTÈPHE, FRANCE

˘ 9 VINARSTVÍ POD HRADEM PÁLAVA, CZECH REPUBLIC A faint aroma of lavender wafts through Pálava Hills as guests retire to their wine barrels for the night. Yes, this vineyard offers wine barrels as accommodation, fully fitted with a double bed, electricity and heating. The best part? They’re situated at the top of the vineyard, so you can wake to a mountaintop view. Stretch your legs on the terrace and try a superb wine tasting and tour of their unique cellar. Cottages, apartments and retro caravans also available. vinarstvipodhradem.cz Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna daily.

Sister property to Irish Wine Geese Lynch-Bages, this winery has a fascinating history, interweaving Irish roots and French influences. In 1690, after their defeat at Battle of the Boyne, Irish Catholic soldiers fled Ireland to Bordeaux like “wild geese”. Fast-forward to today, Lynch-Bages and Château Ormes de Pez are owned by the Cazes family, where perfected recipes passed down through generations create spicy Saint-Estèphe and true Bordeaux wines. Immerse yourself in the history of two unlikely collided worlds. jmcazes.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bordeaux daily.

ALL THAT GLISTERS Could Antwerp be Europe’s best-kept secret?

From cutting-edge design to its own brand of joie de vivre, the city is a waking jewel in Belgium’s crown.

WORDS ISABEL CONWAY PHOTOGRAPHS CONOR HORGAN

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W

e were only here for the beer at first but that’s the effect Belgium has on many, offering a spoilt-forchoice variety that runs into hundreds, many poured into their own special glasses. Living in the Netherlands, I couldn’t wait to join the weekend crowds spilling over the border into Antwerp in search of adventurous beers, mussels, frites and chocolates, with some culture and shopping on the side.

A complex history is enshrined in the DNA of Dutch-speaking Flanders and her northern “Big Brother”. In the distant past they encompassed the one country sharing a similar language. A “Hollander” is often called “Kaas Kop” (cheese head) behind their back and even to their face.

Nonetheless my forgiving Dutch spouse, like myself, fell under Antwerp’s spell. We ended up moving here for four years, stretching waistbands and bank accounts.

ANTWERP

A complicated history is enshrined in the DNA of Dutch-speaking Flanders Our base was a large apartment behind the historic Grote Markt; one of many buildings that replaced bulldozed brothels when the harbour action moved further away.

Back as a tourist many years later, I stand and gaze in wonder with other recently arrived tourists at Central Station, a palatial refurbished Gothic Revival masterpiece of iron, glass and marble from 1905. Wander out to the rear and you’ll hit the Diamond Quarter, centre of the world’s gem industry through which 80 per cent of all rough diamonds and 50 per cent of cut stones pass. Clues that give the game away include armed guards, an on-site police station and all the CCTV cameras on the anonymous concrete buildings of diamond businesses and vaults on Hoveniersstraat. Dodgy-

Your Ten Minute In-flight Preview IMPORTANT IRISH ART

Auction Wednesday 25th September, 2019 in Dublin Viewing : 20th - 25th September. Take a virtual tour and view the catalogue online at www.adams.ie

Jack B Yeats RHA (1871-1957), On The Skibbereen Light Railway Oil on board, 20.5cm x 35cm, €150,000 - €200,000 Thriving in the cacophony of a crowd, Jack B. Yeats was drawn to trains and trams as vessels in which social interactions were played out at close proximity. Picked out with a burst of blue, the central figure pointedly faces forward, supposedly blind to the aggravated stare of the woman to their right. Observing the scene, we as a viewer cannot help but smile at this realistic portrayal of commuter life.

Paul Henry RHA (1877-1958), Digging Potatoes Oil on board, 31.5cm x 39.5cm, €70,000 - €100,000 Paul Henry spoke of the ‘incessant toil with the spade’ that so rawly connected the Achill Islanders to the land from which they coaxed a living. Using muddy tones and rough outlines, Henry blurs the figure with his surroundings, tangibly fusing him to the landscape.

Paul Henry RHA (1877-1958), Connemara Landscape Oil on canvas, 35.5cm x 40.5cm, €60,000 - €80,000

Gerard Dillon (1916-1971), FightingTinkers, Oil on board,40.5cm x 51cm,€30,000 - €50,000

To Paul Henry, the Achill Islands represented a western idyll and an unspoilt landscape. Here, the artist uses thick, textured paint strokes to bring his landscape to life, enveloping the viewer in the serenity of his world.

Bold and brash, Gerard Dillon’s playground of colour makes light of the emotionally charged scene within. His recognisable two-dimensional style artfully illustrates the feud, working it into the patchwork landscape beyond.

Est.1887

ADAM’S

Irelands leading Fine Art Auctioneers & Valuers

26 St Stephen’S Green, Dublin 2. irelanD

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www.aDamS.ie 353-1-6760261

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looking characters, I notice, still wheel and deal in doorways with potential customers.

Otherwise there’s little to see here apart from ogling pricy jewels in the diamond district’s shop windows.

For interesting insights into the city’s long connection with diamonds, head instead to the new museum DIVA (divaantwerp.be) on Suikerrui 17. Here a grand lady’s butler takes us back to the Golden Age of immense wealth for a peek inside her boudoir’s booty of spectacular diamond jewellery, silverware and precious objets d’art. The museum shop stocks some great bling, including a €4.50 ballpoint pen, topped with a whopper of a “diamond”.

You may find yourself running the gauntlet here of the steady stream of river cruise passengers disembarking at the quayside to take photos of the 16th-century De Grote Markt, flanked by gabled guild houses, before visiting the Cathedral of Our Lady, hung with spectacular works

by Rubens and other famous Flemish artists. A pleasant exception to some of the overpriced, underperforming eateries along this main drag is Maurice & Dietrich, Grote Markt 32. There’s a suntrap pavement terrace, friendly service and nice food.

ANTWERP

The owners’ policy is to keep their prices reasonable to draw in locals as much as visitors.

On Astridplein, opposite Central Station, a new museum Chocolate Nation (chocolatenation.be) unwraps the love story between Belgium and chocolate. It tells an enthralling, high-tech journey aimed at young and old, from hard labour on a cocoa plantation to the world’s largest cocoa storage port in Antwerp and onward to production. The in-house chocolatier reveals the secrets of a perfect praline.

Tastings of ten flavours and strengths of thick, velvety, delicious chocolate swirling inside mixing bowls is a perfect finale.

Antwerp is a city of markets – the Sunday market in the city centre is enormous – with stalls set out somewhere daily piled with old postcards, bric-a-brac and retro keepsakes. What’s appealing too is the lack of snobbery in a city of students, many attendees of its famous fashion college. Where else would you find the flagship store of a top designer such as Dries van Noten next door to a great little shop, Melting Pot Kilo (meltingpotkilo.com), on Nationalestraat, which sells vintage clothing by the kilo (€15).

Opening pages, the last rays of sun across the river Scheldt. Previous page, the exuberant main train station and Dogma’s expert mixologist Didier. This page, above, MAS Museum. Opposite, clockwise from top left: spiffy service in Glow Café; everyone and everything travels by bike in Antwerp; The Chocolate Museum’s monument to the Magnum, which was invented in Antwerp; TV presenter and café owner, Veronique Leysen, in Maurice coffee bar; till detail from Ganterie Boon, selling designer gloves since 1884; walking the dog by the river; a snazzy glass door handle; antique curios on Kloosterstraat; luncheon decisions in Maurice & Dietrich.

SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BRUSSELS 12 times per week.

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You’ll stumble on an oasis of tranquility at the tiny Botanical Garden on Leopoldstraat Need to hit up the coolest fashion trends? Look no further than around Kammenstraat, Kloosterstraat and Nationalestraat and everywhere in between.

The Rubenshuis (rubenshuis.be), that 16th-century palatial home of the wealthy painter, diplomat and influencer, Peter Paul Rubens, is a not-to-be-missed experience.

The surprisingly intimate mansion and delightful gardens (closed on Mondays, as are practically all the city’s museums) artfully draw us into the world of one of the greatest Baroque painters.

Close to the river Scheldt, the world’s first UNESCO-listed museum PlantinMoretus (museumplantinmoretus.be) recently changed its collection to be exclusively 16th century in origin. One of my favourite museums, MoMu (momu.be), the epicentre of Belgian fashion, is under renovation to re-open next year for the MODE 2020 fashion festival. And housed in a former grain silo in the artistic Zuid (“South”) district, the contemporary art museum M HKA (muhka.be) is constantly reinventing itself, hosting impressive exhibitions. Believing in “all types of museum experiences”, it also offers visitors yoga sessions as part of the €5 admission.

Beyond Schuttershofstraat, home to Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Belgian label Delvaux and other top designers, you’ll stumble on an oasis of tranquility and beauty at the tiny Botanical Garden on Leopoldstraat 24, once the herb garden for a local hospital.

For longer journeys to highly recommended Zurenborg or crossing to the Linkeroever (left bank) – also reached on foot by escalators and a tunnel under the Scheldt – take the tram, purchasing a ten-trip ticket (€15) valid on the interlinked system of tram, metro and buses.

The once run-down Eilandje is now a hub of clubs, restaurants and ongoing luxury residential projects. Two of Antwerp’s most visited museums are here, MAS (mas.be), whose collection reflects the port city’s past, with a phenomenal rooftop view to boot, and the Red Star Line Museum (redstarline.be) devoted to emigration to the New World.

I am a little sad that a few of my favourite local restaurants and bars are gone. New “happening” spots forever sprout up. Ask a local and they’re bound to shrug at shutdowns and say reinvention has always been the making of Antwerp. They’re probably right; thankfully I find the city’s joie de vivre to be as intoxicating as ever.

Cara would like to thank AVIS for their assistance. For the very best car rental deals, visit CARS.AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

Above, going for a spin through Grote Markt. Left, the chalice room at the decadent DIVA, an amalgamation of the city’s Diamond and Silver Museums.

LUNCH & DINNER

ROOFTOP TERRACE DINING WITH RIVER VIEWS Breakfast * Lunch * Dinner “A vast eating house spread over a former knitting emporium where James Joyce once worked (who knew?)

Surrounded by thick-crusted loaves of bread and pillowy-looking cinnamon-apple buns, I ate a messily delicious braised pork shoulder sandwich laced with red cabbage and beetroot slaw, along with a generously portioned butterbean and pumpkin salad.”

“For eating and drinking in Dublin, make sure to check out The Winding Stair, a longtime favorite of Dubliners and travelers. Its cozy dining room is, fittingly, up a winding staircase, and the windows overlook the River Liffey, my favorite among the restaurants I visited.”

Frugal Traveler - The New York Times

Frank Bruni - The New York Times

42 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 (Northside of the Ha'penny bridge) +353 1 828 0835 * thewoollenmills.com

40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 +353 1 872 7320 * winding-stair.com

Leslie Williams - Irish Examiner

WINNER of the Best Gastro Pub in Dublin 2018 Irish Restaurant Awards

WINNER of the Best Gastro Pub in Ireland 2018 Irish Restaurant Awards

1/2 Chancery Place, Dublin 7 * T: +353 1 555 2971 * thelegaleagle.ie

um

***** “There is something joyous about the food in The Legal Eagle and I defy anybody not to love its quirky mix of the traditional and the modern from panko crumbed salsify to lunchtime roast in a roll.’’

ips

Catherine Cleary - The Irish Times

Lo rem

“The Legal Eagle is quirky and generous, a gastropub that takes the blandness out of the concept of great food in great pubs and refits it for a jaded world.’’

W Ga INN Iri stro ER o sh f Re Pub the st au in Ir Bes ra el t nt an Aw d 2 ar 01 ds 9

breakfast * lunch * dinner

W Ga INN Iri stro ER o sh f Re Pub the st Be i n au ra Dub st nt l Aw in 2 ar 01 ds 9

....by The Winding Stair....

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS DAYTIME Breakfast and lunch room Bonjour Maurice, named after the owner’s genial late grandfather, is the perfect stop off for breakfast or brunch during your exploration of the not-to-be-missed avenues of stately townhouses and mansions of the Belle Époque and Art Nouveau Zurenborg district. Don’t forget to check out the lovely eccentric bespoke knits in the corner. Artisan breakfast €12 and dinner-plate-sized kip kerrie (coronation chicken) tartine €9.50.

(Cogels Osylei 88, Berchem, +32 3 284 8944; mauricebar.be) VERDANT Flanders’ top vegetable chef, Seppe Nobels, presides over Graanmarkt 13. From the outside it looks like another grandiose Neoclassical residence lining the elegant cobbled square. Inside, spanning several floors of this concept store, you’ll find exclusive clothing, exquisite footwear and accessories while its topnotch restaurant takes up the basement.

Vegetables are the centrepiece of each dish, looking like Picasso masterpieces, big in variety and flavour. There are concessions to fish and meat eaters, however (we were offered lemon sole or veal escalope) on the set three-course dinner menu (€45). Herbs from the rooftop garden, where bees also reside, supply the kitchen. (Graanmarkt 13, +32 3 337 7991; graanmarkt13.com) OCCASION Restaurant Aan de Stroom (RAS) is a favourite for local celebrations and among gooey-eyed couples who clink their glasses of cava (the city’s top tipple after beer) taking in the best sunset views over the Scheldt. Formerly the Zuiderterras (South Terrace), the post-Modernist design

Collect three Avios per euro spent on your BRUSSELS flight. And, remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*

resembles a ship moored on the right bank of the river, making it a city landmark. It’s famous for pans of steaming mussels served with frites and mayonnaise. The cooking is traditional and reliable, prices reflecting the good location. (Ernest van Dijckkaai 37, +32 3 234 1275; ras.today)

STAY CONVENIENT Hotels next to train stations can be low-grade but a threeminute walk from Central Station brings you to boutique Hotel Indigo, a new kid on the block, bursting with Pop Art, multicoloured furnishings, a flamingo adorned lift and a 1970s vibe. Rooms are a bit small but functional, also surprisingly quiet given the busy location. Staff are determined to please and breakfast is from a well-stocked buffet in the café area. The tramline to historic Antwerp is just around the corner.

Rooms from €99. (Koningin Astridplein 43, +32 3 369 5999; hotelindigo.com) URBAN CHIC In the heart of Antwerp’s historic district, FRANQ is a new luxury hotel with oodles of charm and character, housed in a monumental Neoclassical building that used to be a bank on a quiet cobbled street. The vault where mountains of Belgian francs were once stored is now the precious wine cellar of its high end, popular restaurant. The courtyard garden reveals a small, perfectly formed original townhouse dating back to the Golden Age. Rooms from €161. (Kipdorp 10-12, +32 3 555 3180; hotelfranq.com) DESIGN-LED Local star architect Vincent van Duysen has done a sympathetic conversion of a former Augustinian convent in the Green Quarter to make August the last word in Antwerp design. Rooms are all muted wood and cream tones, with flourishes such as a leather lanyard serving as a “Do not Disturb” sign and the bathroom secreted in what looks like a wardrobe. Each room has a dedicated iPad with all the room information and for contacting hotel staff, though the lack of a room phone could prove a little disconcerting for technophobes. Rooms from €135.

(Jules Bordetstraat 5, +32 3 500 8080; august-antwerp.com)

FRAGRANT Maison Emile is a small, friendly boutique hotel just south of the city centre, in the Zuid neighbourhood that’s on a roll right now with new design shops springing up alongside some great eateries.

The rooms are cosy and comfortable with leather armchairs, soft lighting and polished wood floors. On checking in you’ll notice the place also smells great – it’s actually the hotel’s bespoke fragrance, available for purchase at reception. Rooms from €85.

(Emiel Banningstraat 52, +32 3 238 6600; maisonemile.be)

DRINK POTENT World-class cocktails in a neighbourhood joint with a healthy dash of rock ‘n’ roll has everyone talking about Dogma. The industrial interior – try sitting at the bar counter’s bottom-crunching farm machinery seats – is a favoured hangout.

Owner Didier is something of a magician, mixing potions and applying a blow torch to infuse his spirituous smoky concoctions.

Ask for Aix en Provence – apple brandy, thyme, Cointreau, honey and goat’s cheese, decorated with a crystallised orange rind butterfly. (Wijngaardstraat 5, +32 3770 6477; dogmacocktails.be)

SMART TIPS ARRIVALS Frequent trains from Brussels Airport to Antwerp Central take 35 minutes, single fare €11.36. belgianrail.be TRANSPORT From €27 to €40 (24- to 72-hour validity) the Antwerp City Card provides free access to all public transport and most museums and churches, plus 10-25 per cent discount on attractions and other offers. visitantwerpen.be TIME POOR? The hop on/off Citytour Bus (antwerp-citytourbus.be) calls at Antwerp’s top sites all day, while the Touristram (touristram.be), from Groenplaats, is another option. Antwerp is also among Europe’s most cycle-friendly cities. Visit Antwerpen helpdesks have a clutch of easy to follow, themed cycle route maps, such as Urban Jungle and Architectural tours.

*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

EAT

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BELLE

BORDEAUX Exceptional architectural heritage, a world-beating wine tradition and a highly evolved food scene, is it any wonder visitors gush about Bordeaux?

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS

E

ven as its luminosity began to flicker in the late 20th century, Bordeaux was still described as “the very essence of elegance”

by Queen Elizabeth after a visit there in the early 1990s. The city has vastly improved since the British monarch visited. The grand exteriors of its impressive 18th-century architecture have been spruced up and are now bright and inviting. The appeal of driving within its inner triangle has been limited, improving air quality and ensuring those gorgeous golden façades remain gorgeous and golden, and in place of environmentally damaging traffic, a sleek and modern tram network – which cleverly connects to its power source from below, rather than via visually-polluting overhead wires and cables – glides citizens about the centre with an urbane ease.

Modern architecture also flourishes – see La Cité du Vin, for instance, a behemoth exhibition space dedicated to what the city and region is perhaps most famous for: fine wine. But it’s not just the pleasures gleaned from the grape that one can extol. Bordeaux is increasingly topping the chart for its culinary output. From a thoroughly modern neo-bistro scene, to its Michelin-starred temples of gastronomy, there is much to sink one’s teeth into in this most elegant of cities.

BORDEAUX

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Previous pages, left, zesty kitchen interiors at La Course guesthouse; right, the golden-hued Théâtre Français, built in 1800 and now a cinema. These pages, clockwise from right, masterpiece theatre – plating up at Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire at La Grand Maison de Bernard Magrez; fashion forward happy hour at The Starfish terrace; the unmistakable Cité du Vin; maitre de maison Thomas Deledalle and chef Jean-Denis Le Bras at Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire; sensory adventures await at Cité du Vin; fairground attraction at the Jardin Public.

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SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BORDEAUX daily.

Clockwise from top, wine and recline at the modestly bacchanalian (and keenly priced) Bar Ă Vin at the Maison du Vin de Bordeaux; seam punk, original style on a city tram; easy biking through the city. Opposite, Gonzalo Borondo working on a piece for his exhibition at Le Temple des Chartrons. Following page, home baking at La Course Hotel.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY GRAND One of the city’s most imposing hotels, the multisyllabic InterContinental Bordeaux Le Grand Hôtel is luxurious and reflective of the city’s storied and moneyed past. Designed by the celebrated Victor Louis, who also designed the impressive Grand Théâtre opposite the hotel, it is the epitome of old school grandeur. Rooms from €271.

(2-5 Place de la Comédie, +33 557 304 444; bordeaux.intercontinental.com) BOUTIQUE Set on a quiet side of Bordeaux’s verdant Jardin Public, La Course Hotel is a former family home that has been converted into an ultrastylish boutique hotel, with unique rooms served by friendly, unobtrusive staff.

Boasting a wine-stuffed cellar and a novel way to order lovely wines by the glass, this is as elegant a Bordeaux signature accommodation as you’ll find. Rooms from €180. (69 Rue de la Course, +33 55 652 2807; lacourse-bordeaux.fr) BUDGET While Hôtel Novotel Bordeaux Centre won’t be winning any interior design awards soon, it is spotlessly clean, centrally located, with all the modern conveniences one would expect. Take one of their free rental bikes to discover the city en plein air, and come back to freshly made up, air-conditioned rooms where sound sleeps are easily come by.

Rooms from €80 (45 Cours du Marechal Juin, +33 556 514 646; accorhotels.com)

EAT & DRINK FRANGLAIS Le Bordeaux Gordon Ramsay provides, as its name suggests, south-western French classics with a British twist. The set menu with wine for €85 is a very decent punt, while the à la carte beef Wellington is gushed about.

(2-5 Place de la Comédie, +33 557 304 444; bordeaux.intercontinental.com) WORLD-CLASS Eminently elegant, playfully adept, presided over by the world-class Pierre Gagnaire and executed by the expressive, yet meticulous, JeanDenis Le Bras, La Grande Maison Pierre Gagnaire is a significant destination

restaurant. (10 rue Labottière, +33 535 381 616; lagrandemaison-bordeaux.com) COOL A newcomer, sitting on the hipper end of the Asian restaurant scale, Madame Pang, “a bar with dim sum”, manages to pull off the tricky challenge of successfully melding one cuisine with another – miss the Fourme d’Ambert (a raw cow’s milk blue cheese) and ginger bao at your peril. (16 Rue de la Devise, +33 556 384 713; madamepang.com) A LITTLE GEM A natural wine neo-bistro with a small plate selection that is as impressive as the wine – from the lamb sweetbread terrine, to the deceptively simple, yet monumental, toasted brioche with a caramel vinaigrette – Soif comes highly recommended. (35 Rue du Cancera, +33 986 104 240)

WINETASTIC Friendly, knowledgeable staff and a celestial selection of (often natural and organic) wines available by the bottle and the glass, Le Flacon has two branches, one as accessible as the other. Tasty small plates and tempting snacks complete the superb wine experience. Open till 2am. (43 Rue de Cheverus, +33 981 864 343) UNMISSABLE Even though the contrived queue can be tiresome, the famous, tartan-covered L’Entrecôte is a masterclass in finding success in the simplest of offerings: its walnut salad to start; mouth-watering trimmed steak in an umami-rich sauce with skinny fries (as large an amount as you want) for mains, and a kitschy dessert selection for afters.

That’s it, simple yet effective. (4 Cours du 30 Juillet, +33 556 817 610; entrecote.fr)

6 FAB IRISH FORAGES Aoife Carrigy reaps and gathers some of the country’s best rural rummages.

1 BEEKEEPING TOUR ON LEAHY FAMILY FARM There is nothing like the buzz of eyeballing the inner workings of a live beehive, ideally while fully suited up with a third-generation beekeeper such as Noel Leahy as your guide. On a farm nestled in the heather-hued Slieve Aughty mountains of Co Galway, Noel’s two-hour family-friendly tour is one of many unique food experiences bookable through Good Food Ireland (others include a “Wild and Free” forage-and-cook session in Connacht’s only certified organic restaurant). €50pp. (Carrowmore, Co Galway; goodfoodirelandexperiences.com)

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2 FUNGI FORAY WITH WILD FOOD MARY You know you’re in good hands when your guide has a background in science,

cheffing and natural medicine – and two Great Taste Award Gold Stars for her Wild Damson Liqueur. One of Ireland’s most knowledgeable wild food experts, Mary Bulfin leads seasonal forages from her Co Offaly home and Galway’s Crann Og Eco Farm; October’s forays promise fungi finds such as chanterelles, giant puffball, chicken of the woods or boletes. €65 including lunch. (Birr, Co Offaly, 087 741 8536; wildfoodmary.com)

3 EDIBLE GIFTS AT BLACKSTAIRS ECO TRAILS

Sloe gin, rowan berry schnapps, crab apple jelly and pine needle oil are some of the homemade gifts that could be wooing your loved ones this winter – and all starting with a gentle November stroll through the Blackstairs foothills in the erudite company of Robert and Mary White.

Their imaginative ecotourism offerings span from herbalism workshops to fizzy Foraging Hen brunches. From €50/€40 concession. (Borris, Co Carlow, 059 977 3184; blackstairsecotrails.ie)

TITANIC

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KYLE TUNNEY

4 WILD FOODS MASTERCLASS AT BROOKLODGE HOTEL Chef-turned-hotelier and wild food pioneer Evan Doyle is passionate about sharing his extensive knowledge – through his Wild Food handbook, co-written with the late Biddy White Lennon, and regular events at the bucolic BrookLodge Hotel. Tour the wild food pantry and certified organic kitchens at The Strawberry Tree restaurant, and learn to identify, gather, cook and preserve wild foods throughout the year. From €145pp including lunch and B&B. (Macreddin Village, Co Wicklow, 0402 36444; brooklodge.com)

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KYLE TUNNEY

5 ANCESTRAL FOODS AND HERBALISM WEEKENDER

6 SLIGO SEAWEED EXPERIENCE WITH PRANNIE RHATIGAN When the tide is right, you’ll find Irish Seaweed Kitchen author Dr Prannie Rhatigan searching Sligo’s shorelines for dillisk, carageen, sea spaghetti and other delicious sea vegetables. Join her three-hour Sligo Seaweed Experience (September 30) for tasters of seaweed pesto and seaweed chocolate truffles; while the extended Coney Island Experience (September 29) includes Lissadell mussel chowder cooked on an open fire. From €50pp. (Various locations, Co Sligo; irishseaweedkitchen.ie)

Did you know that dried acorns can be processed into a versatile and nutritious flour? Our ancestors probably did.

Geraldine Kavanagh of Wicklow Wild Foods (and full-time forager with Glendalough Gin) has teamed up with American herbalist, forager and author John Slattery for a weekend retreat designed to reconnect you to the gifts of the natural world, its wild flavours, medicinal plants and ancient lore. From €370pp. (Avondale Retreat, Co Wicklow, 085 153 8795; wicklowwildfoods.com and johnjslattery.com)

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48 HOURS IN

MINNEAPOLIS -ST PAUL Shayna Sappington finds there’s twice the fun in and around Minnesota’s capital.

DON’T MISS TOP TRIO Whether you’ve spent the day at the Minnesota History Center (mnhs.org) or Prince’s Paisley Park (officialpaisleypark.com), be sure to unwind with a leisurely cruise down the good ol’ Mississippi. Climb aboard Padelford Riverboats Cruise docked at Harriet Island and mosey down the northern bend, scouting for bald eagles among the colourful autumn foliage.

Tip: tickets are just $10 on Mondays.

(205 DR Justus Ohage Blvd, +1 651 227 1100; riverrides.com) ELECTRIFYING The Bakken Museum started as Medtronic founder Earl Bakken’s collection of therapeutic electrical devices. Now, it’s a top STEM museum and library. Conduct experiments, try robotics and learn about Shelley’s Frankenstein in a spooky exhibit.

Also, stay tuned for frequent Bakkenalia soirées, exploring the science behind food and drink, via a plethora of samples.

(3537 Zenith Ave S, Minneapolis, +1 612 926 3878; thebakken.org) SHOPPING A trip to Minnesota’s Mall of America – the largest mall in the US, with more than 520 stores, 50 restaurants, an aquarium and its own theme park (Nickelodeon Universe) – is overwhelming in the best possible way.

Box off a full day here and be sure to try FlyOver America, a wonderfully realistic flight simulator ride that seemingly whisks you across the country from coast to coast. (2131 Lindau Lane, Bloomington, +1 952 883 8800; mallofamerica.com)

EAT GALLIC Midwestern Minneapolis has Nordic, German and French roots, which result in modern European restaurants such as the bistro Barbette. Decorated with paintings and prints by local talent, its walls are as magnifique as the wine list and food menu. Brunch-goers can linger over a light and crispy vegetable hash, a creamy, whipped Brie omelette and pommes frites with saffron aioli. (1600 W Lake St, Minneapolis, +1 612 827 5710; barbette.com)

Clockwise from above right, a sunny Minneapolis skyline; Nordic eccentricity at the Renaissance Minneapolis Bloomington Hotel; the glorious US Bank Stadium, home to the Minnesota Vikings; a full-flavoured plateful at local favourite, Colita; a refreshing tipple of Surly Brewing’s Xtra-Citra Pale Ale.

MEX MAGIC Upscale Mexican cuisine with a smoky, American-South twist … locals can’t get enough of Colita. Lobster tostadas with corn butter, king mackerel aguachile (Mexico’s take on ceviche) and smoked Wagyu brisket tacos with handground Oaxacan corn tortillas. The kitchen is gluten-free and its tequila cocktails have a citrus kick. (5400 Penn Ave S, Minneapolis, +1 612 886 1606; colitampls.com) MALL HAUL Twin City Grill is the perfect place to refuel between shopping sprees.

Try the local Walleye Fish Fry from the Northern Lakes, or popular picks wild rice and corn chowder, the peppercorn burger and hickory-smoked baby back ribs. But the bestseller, and deservedly so, is the mac ‘n’ cheese, smothered with stringy cheeses and topped with bacon and breadcrumbs. (130 N Garden, 1st Floor, Mall of America, Bloomington, +1 952 854 0200; twincitygrillrestaurant.com)

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SLEEP SWISH Nordic eccentricity electrifies the newly renovated Renaissance Minneapolis Bloomington Hotel. A log-piled check-in desk resides in a bright lobby filled with faux sheepskin chairs, art-filled cubbyholes and a makeshift chandelier fashioned from fabric-wrapped driftwood. Head to LARS, its upscale restaurant, for miso glazed salmon and carne asada Tampiqueña (a popular Mexican meat dish). Rooms from $113. (5500 American Boulevard W, Bloomington, +1 952 831 8000; marriott.com)

DRINK HOPPY DAYS One of the original breweries in the area, Surly Brewing boldly claims to have started the craft beer craze. It may be known for its original brews but Surly never stops experimenting with new flavours, such as rosé lager and espresso stout (the bar’s 35 taps rotate daily). Take a tour to witness its perfected process and be sure to try the signature Furious IPA. And with tasty pizza upstairs, what’s not to love? (520 Malcolm Ave, Minneapolis, +1 763 999 4040; surlybrewing.com) GLUTTONOUS With six major sports teams, Minnesota always has a match on and Shamrocks is the best bar at which to watch one. Sip local beers, such as the Summit EPA, while snacking on honeyglazed bacon cheese curds – or it’s very own Juicy Lucy dubbed the “Juicy Nookie”: a beef patty stuffed with cheese that will change your burger ’buds forever. Or, catch your own dinner with the live lobster claw machine. (995 7th St W, St Paul, +1 651 228 9925; crnook.com) FURTIVE Catching a musical at the renowned 1960s Guthrie Theatre should be followed by drinks at nearby swanky speakeasy Marvel Bar, where cocktails are irresistible and the dress is fancy.

You’ll find it behind an unmarked purple door below The Bachelor Farmer, an organic restaurant serving Nordic-

influenced fare. Try the zesty Paloma 3.0, a tequila mash of chilli, grapefruit and lime, or the charcoal-infused Lincoln County with top-notch bourbon. (50 N 2nd Ave, Minneapolis; marvelbar.com)

SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MINNEAPOLIS-ST PAUL daily.

LOCATION Hyatt Regency Bloomington -Minneapolis is conveniently close to the airport and also the Mall of America, to which you can grab a free shuttle. The hotel’s smart design includes a business centre, pool and gym. Dine on delectable eats at its Urbana restaurant: venison and pork chilli, or the chef’s chicken “uff da” – lefse (flatbread) stuffed with roast chicken, apple, Brie and cranberry relish. Rooms from $105. (3200 E 81st St, Bloomington, +1 952 922 1234; hyatt.com) HISTORIC For a cosier setting, try The New Victorian Mansion Bed & Breakfast.

Built in 1881, the redbrick mansion features colloquial American amenities: wraparound porch, rocking chairs and hosts eager to chat in true Minnesotan manner (splurge on the Storybook Suite, whose fireplace is decorated with tiles illustrating hand-painted nursery rhymes). Customised breakfasts available. Rooms from $195. (325 Dayton Ave, St Paul, +1 651 321 8151; newvicbb.com)

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BUSINESS

MUNICH

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Munich isn’t just the home of Oktoberfest but a powerhouse of commerce with an increasing eco-conscience, says Paul Wheatley.

W

omen in dirndls and men in lederhosen, oompah bands and litre-sized glasses filled with frothing beer – sound familiar?

While they’re great images for the city’s tourism industry, Munich is far more sophisticated (and unpredictable) than these images suggest.

Munich is the capital of German economic powerhouse Bavaria and is long considered one of Europe’s most important (and high-tech) centres for business and research. Home to Siemens and BMW, the city boasts Ludwig Maximilian University and the Technical University of Munich – two academic behemoths – and also the national German Aerospace Centre is located here.

There’s plenty for holidaymakers, too. After Berlin,

Munich is Germany’s most visited city, with a record 7.8 million overnight visitors in 2018.

As well as the world’s biggest beer festival, Oktoberfest – running this year from September 21 until October 6 (oktoberfest.de) – it has the country’s best beer gardens and a trip isn’t complete without a visit to a traditional beer cellar or a wirtshaus (a pub-restaurant).

Affluent, cultured and increasingly multicultural, many Munich citizens are rapidly embracing their green conscience. The Green Party came first in the European elections here and it may well win the 2020 city elections.

It has an expanding array of quality vegetarian, vegan and organic restaurants. And new – even traditional – breweries and hotels are eager to get in on the green transformation.

GET SMART NAVIGATION Munich has a fine, integrated public transport system of trams, buses, underground and overground trains – but with a rather complicated network of tariffs, which are set to be radically simplified from December this year. Keep things simple by downloading the München Navigator app, which is the best choice for buying tickets.

Two S-Bahns leave the airport to central Marienplatz via two different routes every 20 minutes, taking 36 and 46 minutes.

CO-WORKING Located in a former factory complex at the Ostbahnhof, the increasingly trendy Werksviertel is home to new flats, sports facilities, concert venues, hotels – and also Werk1, which is home to entrepreneurs, startup offices and co-working spaces accessible 24/7.

It has Silent Space, Communication Space and an on-site café.

A day’s access is €20.

(Atelierstrasse 29, +49 89 995 2990; werk1.com)

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© DANIEL SCHVARCZ

EAT

SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to Munich twice daily.

STARRY The brainchild of chef de cuisine Christian Schargerl and Vienna’s Paul Ivic, the Michelin-starred TIAN, left, is a fabulous high-quality vegetarian restaurant, located beside Viktualienmarkt, the city’s feast-for-the eyes outdoor fresh food market. Ingredients here are seasonal, often organic, mostly regional, packing the likes of tortellini and courgette blossom with style and flavour.

(Frauenstrasse 4, +49 89 885 656 712; tian-restaurant.com)

WHOLESOME More casual is Prinz Myshkin, which has been serving top-notch, imaginative vegetarian food since the 1980s.

Five minutes from Marienplatz, its floor-to-ceiling windows and lively artwork provide a relaxing, airy ambience to enjoy changing daily lunches, from beetroot and potato gratin to spinach strudel, all for €8.50, while the main menu wonderfully careers from vegan guacamole to rustic pizzas. (Hackenstrasse 2, +49 89 265 596; prinzmyshkin.com)

AU NATUREL Traditional and bijou, Klinglwirt is Munich’s first organic wirtshaus. Taking pride in its ability to expertly recreate traditional, homemade dishes with local and organic ingredients, here is where you can get pesticide-free Bavarian roast pork or beef, with potato or bread dumplings, in a rustic and authentic, ie non-touristy, setting and – whisper it – they also do vegetarian dishes.

(Balanstrasse 16, +49 89 856 761 99; klinglwirt.de)

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STAY SLICK Home to the outstanding TIAN restaurant, Living Hotel Das Viktualienmarkt is a modern, design-led hotel in a great area, whose companywide sustainable ethos should tick all the boxes for the forward-thinking traveller: the hotel group is Green Globe certified. Rooms from €192. (Frauenstrasse 4, +49 89 885 6560; living-hotels.com)

CLASSY For an overnight stay with Bavarian character and a genuine commitment to the environment, there’s nowhere better than Alter Wirt. This certified eco-hotel in Munich’s leafy and affluent Grünwald area has sustainably produced furniture, bedding and flooring, an excellent organic restaurant and runs off green, geothermal energy. Rooms from €64. (Marktplatz 1, Grünwald, +49 89 641 9340; alterwirt.de)

HANDY Ten minutes by tram from the city centre, Novotel München City Arnulfpark is another hotel taking sustainability seriously, from an e-car charging station and rooftop solar panels to fair trade body products and eco-certified cleaning products. Its restaurant has a veg and herb garden, its menu includes sustainable fish stock and its star baker creates everything in-house. Rooms from €86. (Arnulfstrasse 57, +49 89 242 0780; accorhotels.com)

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attached great importance to organic and regional products.

As a wine sommelier, did you ever imagine you’d be involved in the beer industry? No, I never expected it.

I didn’t drink any beer at all before – except the beer Thomas brewed in his cellar. That was always great and tastier than all the others.

CHEERS TO THE FUTURE Marta Girg is co-founder of Haderner Bräu München, the city’s most famous organic brewery. Munich is renowned across the world for its beer, though this didn’t deter Marta and husband, Thomas, above, from breaking into the market. Three years after opening in 2016, Haderner’s organic Weissbier, Helles and IPA are in countless pubs, restaurants and supermarkets across Germany’s most famous beer city.

Munich is a world-famous beer city.

Why open another brewery? I’m a wine sommelier and Thomas a beer sommelier.

We wanted to do something as a family and over Christmas dinner we came up with the idea to open a brewery. Our friends and family thought we were crazy but we were convinced that a quality product would succeed.

And why organic? Munich is a beer city – and an organic city. The people of Munich love beer and increasingly they value craftsmanship, regionality and organic products. We have two children and we believe that future generations have the same right to a clean environment and a healthy, happy life. It is our task to protect this right. Since our boys were born, we’ve

Where would you take a business partner to dinner? Wherever our beer is! There are many smaller, special locations, especially around Munich, such as the Schlossgut Oberambach on Lake Starnberg (schlossgut.de), Maisinger Seehof on Lake Masinger (maisingerseehof.de) and Büffelhof in Beuerbach (bueffelhof-beuerbach.de).

Munich’s small cafés are also beautiful, such as Leib und Siegel (leib-und-siegel. de), and if I really want something great and fresh to eat, then of course Frische Paradies (frischeparadies.de) – a delicatessen with a bistro, in Schlachthof – is the place to be.

What do you do to relax? I like to spend my free time on our terrace, barbecuing with friends and family. I enjoy going down to the river Isar and to the zoo. And I also love Munich’s many street parties.

Fly return to MUNICH daily for 12,750 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*

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A DAY IN THE LIFE

I LOVE VISITIN G …

LA-born John Murdy is the creative director/executive producer of Halloween Horror Nights at Universal Studios Hollywood. Working with the horror genre’s greatest filmmakers, Murdy transforms the park every autumn into a “living horror movie” with frighteningly realistic mazes and scare zones based on popular horror films and TV shows. John splits his time between Hollywood, California and Letterkenny, Co Donegal.

9am I sit down at my Victorian roll top writing desk to begin the day’s work. It’s not exactly ergonomic but I find it inspiring to write in the same manner as the Gothic authors that invented this genre. The first task of the day is to deal with the flood of emails from Hollywood that came in during the dead of night.

10am Because our attractions are famous for their fanatical attention to detail, research is a big part of my job. I spend the mornings watching horror movies and TV shows we’re working with, moving at a zombie’s pace as I search for that oddly iconic prop, creepy piece of music or a particularly startling sound effect. For a show like Stranger Things, that translates to 100 hours or more to review the episodes and between 40-50,000 still images.

2pm The afternoons are when I write.

For every Halloween Horror Nights

attraction we do, I write a treatment that can be anywhere from 75-100 pages long and contains every detail we’ll need to reproduce a film or TV show for our guests.

When you add it all up, it’s the equivalent to writing a Game of Thrones-size novel in six months.

LOS ANGELES I have worked at Universal Studios Hollywood for almost 30 years – starting as a tour guide – but I’ve never lost my fascination with the place, of standing in front of the original Psycho house where Alfred Hitchcock filmed his thriller ...

6pm The day’s writing complete, it’s family time for the next couple of hours culminating in a bedtime story for the kids.

Their current fave? This is the House That Drac Built by Judy Sierra.

8pm When I’m in Ireland, it’s phone calls and Skype sessions till 11pm to catch up with Hollywood. It can be anything from a creative pitch with the Duffer Brothers [the producers of Stranger Things], going over make up designs with executive producer and director Greg Nicotero from The Walking Dead or discussing a piece of music with Slash from Guns N’ Roses, who’s doing the score for our “Frankenstein Meets the Wolf Man” maze.

Midnight I always seem to go to bed around the witching hour … fitting, I suppose, for my line of work.

Halloween Horror Nights open at Universal Studios Hollywood on September 13 and run until November 3. universalstudioshollywood.com

PORTRAIT: UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD

7am The alarm goes off and the screaming begins as I attempt to wake up my two daughters for school. As I draw back the blinds, my girls hiss at me like vampires being exposed to the deadly rays of sunlight in a classic horror film. In this maddening morning ritual, I usually make four or five trips to their bedroom before I can motivate the “little monsters” to get out of bed and dressed for school.

DUBLIN A city famous for its music and literary history but also inspiring for horror aficionados.

I love the crypt at Christ Church Cathedral, which has the oddest display … mummified bodies of a cat and a rat, affectionately named “Tom and Jerry”.

PARIS The Universal Classic silent horror films were born with The Hunchback of Notre Dame and The Phantom of the Opera, so naturally I am drawn to the city where both of those classic monsters were born.

The food’s not bad either.

A MARATHON DOESN’T RUN ITSELF, IT TAKES A CITY. It takes runners, supporters, and volunteers – see you on the 27th October.

KBC, proud sponsor of the Dublin Marathon

Proud sponsor of

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HOTELS

NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK

BRUTAL BEAUTY

LISBON A member of Preferred Hotels, The One Palácio da Anunciada is a princely five-star on the Avenida da Liberdade. Its 16th-century-palace origins are evident, from marble lobby and staircases to extravagantly embellished ceilings and gleaming decor. A respectful restoration, then, with the added 21stcentury bonuses of a spa and outdoor swimming terrace. Rooms from €300. h10hotels.com

clever, “sunny” lighting, slatted blinds and potted plants, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in a beach lodge in California.

The Standard is notoriously puckish and even its library was designed to spark lively conversation, with sections including “Romance & Tech” and “Order & Chaos”. Also on the ground floor is a (soundproofed) studio, which invites DJs, musicians and podcasters to stream live sets and natter. Two restaurants are commandeered by chef Adam Rawson – Double Standard, which serves elevated pub grub, draught beer and cocktails du jour, and the more upscale Isla, whose raison d’être are seasonal seafood and vegetables – while Peter Sanchez Iglesias’ not-yet-named grill opens on the tenth floor this month and will pair Spain- and Mexico-inspired fire-cooked dishes with 360-degree panoramas of the city.

If this anything-but-brutal London outpost is anything to go by, its in-train cousins in Bordeaux, Lisbon, Milan and Paris have much to look forward to.

Rooms from £179. (10 Argyle St, Kings Cross, +44 20 3981 8888; standardhotels.com)

LONDON For something more sedate than The Standard, look to Inhabit, London’s “first mindfulness hotel” set across six beautifully designed Georgian townhouses in Paddington.

This means no single-use plastics, circulareconomic furniture crafted by social enterprises, daily yoga classes, meditation pods and a plantpromoting and fair trade café called Yeotown.

Rooms from £150. inhabithotels.com

ANNIE SCHLECHTER

T

he Marmite of architecture, Brutalism is infamous for its concrete heft and steadfast refusal to employ ornamentation for ornamentation’s sake; indeed, the craft is in mastering its monumental materials. If anyone needs convincing that Brutalism can be beautiful too – and moreover fun – they should look to The Standard’s new opening in London’s King’s Cross, which has seen a divisive county council building transformed into a haven for tastemakers and rule-breakers.

It’s the hotel group’s debut offering outside the US and has probably already hogged your Instagram feed with its pristine, monochrome facade jolted by a scarlet external elevator.

And then there are the guest rooms, all 266 of them, whose retro accents – and “giant airplane windows,” says Shawn Hausman, The Standard’s longtime interior designer – hark back to a bygone, parallel-universe era of travel. There are even rooms without windows, ideal for whistle-stop or redeye travellers with neither the time nor the inclination to admire views of the splendid St Pancras Station across the road. But due to

TIM EVAN COOK

The Standard’s first foray outside the US is a surprisingly stunning success, says Lucy White.

PHILADELPHIA Members-only clubs are having a moment (well, until the next economic crash) and The Fitler’s game-changer claims will practise and preach a “work/stay/play” philosophy. There are just 14 rooms but vast gym and workspace amenities, and A-list artworks from the likes of Joseph Beuys and Damien Hirst.

Boston, Toronto and Washington DC coming soon. Rooms from $450. fitlerclub.com

WINTHROP, DELIVERING TURNKEY DATA CENTRES, FASTER, LEANER & SMARTER.

YOUR EXPERIENCED PARTNER FOR DATA CENTRES IN EUROPE.

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BUSINESS

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT

1 YOUTH ISN’T NECESSARILY WASTED ON THE YOUNG Immediately after finishing my studies at L’Ecole Hoteliere de Lausanne I joined my family in setting up Eccleston Square Hotel. It wasn’t our original plan for me to become its acting general manager right away, but that’s what happened and I had boundless energy and enthusiasm. While it was a privileged position, I never took it for granted and I worked hard. Nearly nine years on I’m proud of the experience I’ve gained and know that age should never be an obstacle, it’s all to do with mentality.

2 WORK SMART We’re living in exciting times in terms of technological developments. If you can, collaborate with talented, young minds who are investing their skills into newer technologies. Cloudbased technologies allow me to switch, fix

and observe almost every aspect of my business remotely. Technology done well saves time so that energies can be spent on the guest experience.

ATOMIZE

Olivia Byrne is the company director of Pimlico, London’s Eccleston Square Hotel, which she started managing at the age of 23, making her Europe’s youngest hotelier. Her 39-room boutique townhouse on an Edwardian square combines slick tech, such as Hästens Swedish massage beds and smartphones, with historic, original features.

meeting. I’m sure my respect for punctuality was in part formed by my schooling in Switzerland ...

3 BE CONSISTENT There’s no quickwin to having a successful business: it’s a process of being consistent and focused.

I don’t focus too much on what other hotels are doing; rather I have a clear vision of what Eccleston Square Hotel is and will be, and am careful to pursue activities that only contribute to this goal.

5 THINK AHEAD Even though it’s tempting, I don’t allow myself to become too distracted by my inbox. I’ve a brilliant team who I trust to run the day-to-day operations, which allows me to focus on what lies ahead. Technology is a fast-moving industry – and guest expectations are constantly evolving – so I enjoy prioritising time to keep abreast of developments.

4 NEVER BE LATE (VERY SWISS) Punctuality is not only a sign of professionalism but it also signifies to others that you are reliable. It’s one of the most underrated yet simplest ways to show respect to others. I’m not quick to anger but I’m unimpressed if someone is late for a

6 ALWAYS TAKE YOUR HOLIDAY No matter how much you love your job, take all your holiday allowance. Some of my best ideas have been conceived during peaceful moments on leave. The quality of what we produce will improve considerably by taking time away from the routine.

FAVOURITE CITY FOR DOING BUSINESS LONDON DESTINATION I’d choose London every time. For me, it’s about the unique combination of nationalities that create a global-thinking environment, and that the city encourages innovation and creativity. This has enabled me to create such a forward-thinking hotel.

EAT I’m spoiled for choice for exceptional restaurants.

I prefer intimate environments so my go-tos are La Poule au Pot on Ebury Street in Belgravia (pouleaupot.co.uk) and the perfect French café vibe offered at Colbert on Sloane Square (colbertchelsea.com).

BEST-KEPT SECRET One of my favourite places is Brompton Cemetery (royalparks.org.uk).

The Royal Parks manage the gardens and it’s a rare haven for wildlife, and a fascinating and peaceful place to just … be.

I also often take five in the North Lodge café.

Get the right people behind you At William Fry, strong client relationships and quality legal and tax advice are the hallmarks of our inward investment business.

Our client-focused service combines technical excellence with commercial awareness and a practical, constructive approach to business issues.

Paul White

Leo Moore

Rachel Fox

Bryan Bourke

Lyn Brennan

Andrew McIntyre

Head of US Offices

Inward Investment Partner

Tax Partner

Managing Partner

Banking & Finance Partner

Head of Inward Investment

williamfry.com DUBLIN

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NEW YORK

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DUBLIN EXCLUSIVE GLENDALOUGH POITÍN

Cocktails from €8.95

€ 7.45

Poitín is Ireland's historic predecessor to whiskey.

It can be traced as far back as 584AD in the monastic settlements of Glendalough.

Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 HARDROCK.COM

E R ’ U YO

N O C BA AZY! Me

CR

Bacon Crusted Ribs

Fleet Street • Stephen’s Green • Blanchardstown Dundrum • Swords • Liffey Valley

Let us entertain you

We’ve got loads of brilliant movies, TV shows and music for you to enjoy.

124 126 128 130 132 134 140 142 146

Box office hits All the classics TV time Binge watching Audio Your comfort and safety Flight connections Explore the world with us Let's get you connected

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INFLIGHT

Box office hits Settle in and enjoy some of the latest Hollywood blockbusters.

KidZone

PG

112 mins

Dumbo A young elephant helps to save a struggling circus. Stars Colin Farrell, Michael Keaton, Danny DeVito, Eva Green EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Adventure

PG

96 mins

A Dog’s Way Home

A dog travels 400 miles in search of her owner.

Stars Ashley Judd, Jonah Hauer-King, Edward James Olmos EN FR DE IT ES

Adventure

PG13

121 mins

Alita: Battle Angel

Action

PG13

143 mins

Aquaman

A female cyborg goes on a quest to find out who she is. Stars Lana Condor, Jennifer Connelly, Eiza González

A war between the worlds of ocean and land is on the horizon. Stars Jason Momoa, Amber Heard, Willem Dafoe

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Action

PG13

181 mins

Avengers: Endgame

Drama

PG

116 mins

Breakthrough

The climatic end to the epic Avenger’s journey.

Stars Brie Larson, Scarlett Johansson, Karen Gillan

A boy comes back to life after drowning in Lake St Louis. Stars Topher Grace, Chrissy Metz, Marcel Ruiz

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

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Action

PG13

124 mins

Biography

PG13

108 mins

Drama

PG13

129 mins

125

Action

125 mins

R

Comedy

PG13

88 mins

Captain Marvel

Fighting with My Family

Glass

Hellboy

Isn’t it Romantic

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Earth is caught in a war between two alien races.

Stars Brie Larson, Samuel L Jackson, Ben Mendelsohn

Adventure

PG

89 mins

A story of a family who fight a little differently.

Stars Dwayne Johnson, Lena Headey, Florence Pugh

Thriller

R

100 mins

Tracking a disturbed man who has 24 personalities.

Stars James McAvoy, Bruce Willis, Samuel L Jackson

Action

PG13

132 mins

Hellboy battles an ancient sorceress bent on revenge.

Stars David Harbour, Ian McShane, Milla Jovovich

Drama

108 mins

R

Natalie discovers her life has become a romantic comedy.

Stars Rebel Wilson, Liam Hemsworth, Adam Devine

Horror

R

93 mins

Nancy Drew and the Hidden Staircase

Pet Sematary

Shazam!

The Aftermath

Nancy investigates the ghostly activity at a nearby mansion. Stars Sophia Lillis, Zoe Renee

A family discovers an ancient burial ground in their home. Stars Jason Clarke, Amy Seimetz, John Lithgow

A British couple are sent to live in Hamburg in post WW2. Stars Keira Knightley, Alexander Skarsgård, Jason Clarke

A mum and her kids are drawn into the supernatural realm. Stars Linda Cardellini, Patricia Velasquez, Raymond Cruz

EN FR ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

A streetwise kid discovers he can change into a super hero. Stars Zachary Levi, Mark Strong, Asher Angel

KidZone

The Curse of La Llorona

G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13

Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Crime

R

116 mins

Comedy

PG13

126 mins

Drama

PG13

111 mins

Tolkien

KidZone

PG

107 mins

A war veteran turns drug mule for a Mexican cartel.

Stars Bradley Cooper, Clint Eastwood, Manny Montana

The relationship between two men with differing backgrounds. Stars Kevin Hart, Bryan Cranston, Nicole Kidman

Explore the formative years of the author Tolkien.

Stars Nicholas Hoult, Lily Collins, Colm Meaney

The Lego Movie 2: The Second Part Lego Duplo invaders threaten to wreak chaos.

Voiced by Chris Pratt, Elizabeth Banks, Will Arnett

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

The Mule

The Upside

Français

DE

Deutsch

IT

Italiano

ES

Español

PU

Portuguese CCEN Closed Caption English

ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS

English Subtitles

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INFLIGHT

All the classics R

Take a trip down movie memory lane with our great selection of classics.

Our animation film package will guarantee fun for all the family with classics including ‘Bambi’, ‘Peter Pan’ and ‘Beauty and the Beast’.

PG13

146 mins

R

133 mins

AI Artificial Intelligence Stars Haley Joel Osment

American Sniper Stars Bradley Cooper, Sienna Miller

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

R

KidZone

117 mins

300 Stars Gerard Butler, Lena Headey

106 mins

PG

102 mins

R

115 mins

Can You Ever Forgive Me? Stars Melissa McCarthy

Casablanca Stars Humphrey Bogart, Ingrid Bergman

Chef Stars Jon Favreau, Robert Downey Jr

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR IT

EN FR DE

Marvel e Univers

Sit back and enjoy our actionpacked Marvel Studios package.

Starring some of your favourite Super Heroes such as ‘Captain America’, ‘Iron Man’ and ‘Thor’.

PG13

© 2019 Marvel

PG13

118 mins

PG13

115 mins

R

98 mins

© 2019 Disney

R

107 mins

PG13

105 mins

106 mins

PG

106 mins

PG

153 mins

Dunkirk Stars Fionn Whitehead, Barry Keoghan

East Side Sushi Stars Diana Elizabeth Torres, Yutaka Takeuchi

Empire of the Sun Stars Christian Bale, John Malkovich

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR

EN

PG13

104 mins

PG13

140 mins

R

127 mins

Far From the Madding Crowd Stars Carey Mulligan

Ghostbusters Stars Melissa McCarthy, Kristen Wiig

Horrible Bosses Stars Jason Bateman, Charlie Day

Journey’s End Stars Paul Bettany, Sam Claflin

Life of the Party Stars Melissa McCarthy, Debby Ryan

Mr Church Stars Eddie Murphy, Britt Robertson

Ready Player One Stars Olivia Cooke, Tye Sheridan

Sideways Stars Paul Giamatti, Thomas Haden Church

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE ES IT

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

R

119 mins

R

97 mins

PG

117 mins

PG13

154 mins

Spy Stars Melissa McCarthy, Rose Byrne, Jude Law

Tammy Stars Melissa McCarthy, Susan Sarandon

The BFG Stars Mark Rylance, Ruby Barnhill

The Color Purple Stars Danny Glover, Whoopi Goldberg

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE ES

EN DE

PG13

119 mins

PG

124 mins

The Internship Stars Vince Vaughn, Owen Wilson

The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel Stars Maggie Smith

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

R

112 mins

G

100 mins

Three Kings Stars George Clooney, Mark Wahlberg

Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory Stars Gene Wilder

EN FR ES

EN FR ES

Irish movies and shorts Special feature

PG13

9 mins

PG13

16 mins

PG13

30 mins

PG13

89 mins

PG13

3 mins

PG13

83 mins

PG13

18 mins

PG13

25 mins

Algorithms Stars Alan Rogers, Lynn Larkin, Rob Ross

An Táin, Darkness Descends Stars Richard Wall

Detainment Stars Ely Solan, Leon Hughes

Katie Stars Katie Taylor

Listowel Radio Museum Stars Eddie Moylan

One Night in Dublin Stars Manny Aivo, Mei Bignall

Psychic Stars Brendan Gleeson, Brian Gleeson

The Family Way Stars Ciara O’Callaghan, Clara Harte

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EN

EN

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INFLIGHT

TV time Catch up on an old favourite or discover a new show.

Business CNBC Conversation An in depth look at a public persona, featuring episodes with Rose McGowan, Ren Zhengfei and Martin Sorrel Managing Asia Royal Philips transforms under CEO Frans van Houten Marketing, Media, Money A behind the scenes look at Piguet handmade Swiss watches Secret Lives of the Super Rich Meet the super rich and learn how they live their lives

Kidzone Women on the Verge, S1, EP 1–6 Set in Dublin, Sharon Horgan’s ‘Women on the Verge’ tells the darkly comic tale of three career-driven friends in their 30s, who share the same nagging concern – that their lives seem to be moving out of their control. Stars Kerry Condon, Eileen Walsh.

LinkedIn Learning S1, EP 1–10 Learn how to make the most of your career with the LinkedIn Learning series.

Join a variety of leading professionals as they discuss the common mistakes and the simple tips and tricks that you can learn to help you grow and succeed in your career.

Learn & discover

Sports

10 Things to Know About …

Investigating one of the most complex ecosystems on Earth America Inside Out With Katie Couric Does new technology actually make our lives better?

Blue Planet II ‘One Ocean’ goes on a journey to reveal new worlds Find Me a Home Three contrasting property markets It’s a Park’s Life A look at Dublin’s Phoenix Park One Strange Rock What makes planet Earth so special Pilgrimage: The Road to Santiago The team begin their journey in the French Pyrenees Science of Stupid How motorbikes and balancing things on your head can hurt!

Star Talk Neil discusses the science behind science-fiction Whistleblower: The Maurice McCabe Story How the McCabe’s dealt with the aftermath of scandal

Clubland Explore premier football league clubs and their traditions Courtside A look into what it takes to compete at the highest level Epic Trails Follow Eric Hanson as he explores the world’s top trails The Fast Lane Explore the ups and downs that is F1 racing The Immortals Celebrate the careers of sport’s greatest icons Up Close With People at their top of their game share what drives them

Viral Alltime Movies A look at the ten best Netflix movies and subtle CGI Dainty Diaries A DIY way to make pom pom cushions and vases DramaticMac A drugstore, everyday make up tutorial Robin James Robin compares cheap and expensive high street products TRY Irish people try Jack Daniels, Mexican snacks and riddles WhispersRed ASMR Relax and listen to the soothing sounds of Emma’s ASMR

Daniel Tiger’s Neighbourhood It's Daniel’s birthday and he’s excited for birthday cake!

Earth to Luna! Luna and her little brother love science and nature Giving Tales Classic fairy tales

by Hans Christian Andersen Justice League Unlimited Wonder Woman fights the Legion of Doom to save the day Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy The residents of Planetoid are turned into zombies Scooby-Doo! Mystery Incorporated A hideous creature is turning children into monsters SpongeBob SquarePants Squidward tries to prevent Spongebob coming near his home

22 Live Ireland’s newest music show, with live performances About Last Night Ireland’s top clubs, festivals and gigs.

Ariana Grande: Live In London Songs from her album ‘Sweetener’ Find it, Cook it! Ireland’s culinary delights Rock Legends: Elton John The fascinating career of Elton John The Great British Bake Off Biscuit baking with a British twist The History of Comedy Humour in everyday experiences U2: Live In London U2 play in the famous Abbey Road Studios Video Killed the Radio Star The musical impact of Prince

Laugh out loud

Real life

Wish you were here

Friends Follow the lives of six friends living in Manhattan Modern Family Three families face the trials of modern living Mom A single mom restarts her life while dealing with her own mom New Girl Jess moves into an apartment with three single men The Last Man on Earth After humans are wiped out, Phil finally gets some company This Time with Alan Partridge Alan is handed a career lifeline and only chaos ensues Young Sheldon Meet a child genius named Sheldon Cooper and his family

Close Up The story and glamour of Hollywood’s favourite stars Cook, Eat, Burn Donal prepares healthy foods Frock Finders Picking the right dress for the right moment Louis Theroux’s Altered States The traditional model of marriage New Orleans: City of Stories New Orleans artists and musicians Tastes Like Home Fulvio talks to people who have family abroad The Story of Us with Morgan Freeman The concept of freedom Top Gear The hosts head to Norway in the newest estate cars Tracks and Trails Glengarriff Nature Reserve in Cork Whiskey Business The Teeling brothers distillery business

Best of Irish Castles Explore Ireland’s most magnificent castles Drive Australia’s Great Ocean Road Uncover hidden spots on Australia’s Great Ocean Road Introducing Madrid Discover all that the city of Madrid has to offer Introducing New York City Discover the top things to do while in the Big Apple Just back from: Toronto & the Niagara Peninsula Gain an in-depth look at Toronto and the Niagara Peninsula Lisbon’s Most Delicious Custard Tarts Discover the best custard tarts that Portugal has to offer

Music & arts

Wellbeing Ageless Gardens Gardens and their role in healthy ageing In My Mind Breaking down the stigma around mental health Raising Children Journey through parenting dilemmas and solutions Style for Men Learn the secret tips and tricks of style for men Upscale with Prentice Penny Penny puts her upscaling talents to work at a bar What’s Really in our Food?

De-mystifying the science behind the food we eat

EXPLORE LEARN DISCOVER

VIKING & MEDIEVAL DUBLIN VIKING DUBLIN

MEDIEVAL DUBLIN

ST. MICHAEL’S TOWER

St Michael’s Hill, Christ Church, Dublin 8 www.dublinia.ie

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INFLIGHT

Binge watching Because there’s no better time for a binge watch. Take a look at our latest boxsets.

Doctor Who Season 11 PG Throughout this series the Doctor and the gang embark on exciting adventures throughout space and time.

Among their travels, they visit Alabama in 1955, meeting Rosa Parks, go to Punjab in the year 1947; and to Lancashire in 1612, getting involved in a witch trial.

Game of Thrones Season 1 R

The Handmaid’s Tale Season 2 R

Experience the first season of this visionary HBO series set in a mythical world whose inhabitants vie for control of the Iron Throne. But in a land where seasons can last a lifetime, winter is coming.

The Emmy-winning drama series returns with a second season shaped by Offred’s pregnancy and her ongoing fight to free her future child from the dystopian horrors of Gilead.

Love/Hate Season 1 R

The Marvelous Mrs Maisel Season 1 PG13

The story of an organised crime scene of Dublin is revealed, centred on Darren, who wants to stay out of trouble but ends up returning to his old habits and his old gang.

Miriam ‘Midge’ Maisel has everything she’s ever wanted – the perfect husband, two kids, and an elegant Upper West Side apartment. But her perfect life suddenly takes an unexpected turn forever.

Supernatural Season 13 PG13

The Sinner Season 2 R

Lucifer returns with surprising news: the devil is expecting a child.

Now, Sam and Dean must tackle this complex situation, dealing with a creature of extraordinary powers.

Detective Harry Ambrose goes back to his hometown to investigate the murder of a couple by their 11-year-old son.

As he tries to figure out why, it becomes clear that the town is hiding some secrets.

The Flash Season 4 PG13 With The Flash voluntarily in prison, Iris leads a discouraged Team Flash in protecting Central City. However, a new villain threatens to destroy the city if the Flash doesn’t fight him.

True Detective Season 3 R Retired detective Wayne Hays, who originally investigated a crime, is asked to look back on the twists of the unsolved case with a true-crime documentary producer.

visit

www.dalkeycastle.com

Dalkey 4-6 October 2019 Visit Dalkey, 30 minutes south of

Enjoy history brought to life with

Echoes is a literary festival with

Dublin city on the coast, home

actors at Dalkey Castle.

Maeve Binchy at its heart.

place to many writers from Joyce to

Open all year round. Closed on Tuesdays

Bono and Beckett to Maeve Binchy.

and at Christmas.

Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre

@dalkeycastle

t 01 285 8366 e info@dalkeycastle.com

@dalkeycastleandheritage

www.echoes.ie

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INFLIGHT

Audio Relax to your favourite tunes, make a playlist or delve into a new podcast.

Solange ‘When I Get Home’ is unhurried, ambient and exploratory, exploring several musical genres – including spiritual jazz – and with collaborators including Gucci Mane and Sampha.

Classical

Kidzone

Sound Out Ian McGlynn, RTÉ Lyric FM The Blue of the Night RTÉ lyric fm

CAKE Culture and Arts for Kids and Everyone

Rock

Easy listening

Marty Miller Radio Nova

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels

Talk

Indie Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

Irish Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists Sinéad ar Bord Traditional and contemporary tracks in the Irish language

Pop Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs Gold in the Sky Karl Tsigdinos, RTÉ Gold Late Date RTÉ Radio 1’s Late Date with Cathal Murray The Hotmix Rebecca Shekleton, 98FM Tracy Clifford RTÉ 2FM

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One We offer two documentaries on this flight. The first tells the story of Van Morrison’s seminal album from 1968, ‘Astral Weeks’; the second, of Kildare man Michael Roe, who was one of the fastest racing car drivers in the world during the 1980s.

Meghan Trainor ‘The Love Train’ is Meghan Trainor’s second EP and was released soon after her wedding.

Trainor’s vocals are equally powerful and passionate and this EP is filled to the brim with romantic heartfelt numbers like ‘Marry Me’; and tracks to dance to, like ‘All the Ways’.

Podcast Erin’s Isle Meet the Galway Hookers Erin’s Isle Gaelic Golf; How to Hit a Hole in One Erin’s Isle Stargazers’ Delight Erin’s Isle Living Legends

Podcast: Erin’s Isle Featuring a series of podcasts about Ireland.

Learn about the country’s golf courses and meet some of its legendary people.

INFLIGHT

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The Script ‘Science and Faith’ is one of The Script’s most well-known albums and deservedly so. It is designed to be equally at home in a stadium sing-along or to have in the background with friends. The album is a mixture of pop, hip-hop and rock, ‘Science and Faith’ has tracks for every mood.

All-time Favourites

Country

Jazz

Pop

KidZone

Aretha Franklin The Very Best of

Brooks & Dunn Reboot Carlton Anderson Carlton Anderson Maren Morris Girl Mitchell Tenpenny Telling All My Secrets Ryan Hurd To a T Ward Thomas Restless Minds

Branford Marsalis Quartet The Secret Between the Shadow and the Soul David Orlowsky Trio One Last Night – Live at Elbphilharmonie Django Reinhardt Djangology Rebekka Bakken Things You Leave Behind Weather Report Mysterious Traveller

Backstreet Boys DNA Lennon Stella Love, Me Meghan Trainor The Love Train Rak-Su Rome Tom Odell Jubilee Road Tom Walker What a Time to Be Alive

Captain Allen Swift Popeye’s Favorite Sea Shanties and Other Songs Charles Grean ‘The Unicorn’ and Other Favorites for Growing Boys and Girls Charles Grean Songs from Walt Disney's ‘Jungle Book’ Dora The Explorer We Did It! Dora’s Greatest Hits Spongebob Squarepants Spongebob’s Greatest Hits The Richard Wolfe Children’s Chorus Yellow Submarine and Other Big Hits for Little People

Bob Dylan The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan Dean Martin My Woman, My Woman, My Wife Muddy Waters Hard Again Robert Johnson King of the Delta Blues Singers The Five Stairsteps The First Family of Soul: The Best of the Five Stairsteps

Alternative LCD Soundsystem Electric Lady Sessions St Lucia Acoustic Vol 1 The Neighbourhood The Neighbourhood Winnetka Bowling League Cloudy With a Chance of Sun

Classical Cameron Carpenter Rachmaninoff: Rhapsody on a Theme of Paganini & Poulenc: Organ Concerto Khatia Buniatishvili Schubert Roman Rofalski The Kapustin Project Teodor Currentzis Mahler: Symphony No 6 Yo-Yo Ma Salonen Cello Concertos

Electro Alan Walker Different World Groove Armada Groove Armada Greatest Hits Lost Frequencies Less is More Martin Garrix By Law Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990-99 The Chainsmokers Sick Boy

Irish Dervish The Great Irish Songbook Christy Moore Listen Kodaline Politics of Living Shane Sullivan Little Steps The Script Science & Faith Triona Warrior

Metal Arch Enemy Covered in Blood Dream Theater Distance Over Time In Flames Come Clarity Krisiun Scourge of the Enthroned Ozzy Osbourne No More Tears Unearth Extinction(S)

Opera Anita Rachvelishvili Anita Howard Arman Rossini: Stabat Mater Maarten Engeltjes Forgotten Arias Regula Mühlemann Cleopatra – Baroque Arias Simone Kermes Mio Caro Handel

R ’n’ B HER I Used to Know Her: Part 2 Khalid Suncity Khalid Free Spirit Nao Saturn Solange When I Get Home VanJess Silk Canvas

Rock Bring me the Horizon Amo Bruce Springsteen Springsteen on Broadway Elvis Presley The Best of The ’68 Comeback Special Nothing But Thieves What Did You Think When You Made Me This Way? Sundara Karma Ulfilas’ Alphabet The Unlikely Candidates Danger to Myself

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INFLIGHT

Your comfort and safety Your comfort and safety is our number one priority at all times. Our crew are on hand to look after you and any requirements you may having during your flight.

We do ask that we have your attention during our safety announcements.

Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat with our cabin crew.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

We ask for your attention during the safety demonstration by our cabin crew before take-off. We also recommend that you familiarise yourself with the safety card in the seat pocket in front of you.

We have a strict no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

You cannot smoke in any part of the cabin.

General safety tips for your flight today • Do pay attention to any instructions given to you by our cabin crew.

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• It is illegal to consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest, including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique.

• Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

Guest with wheelchair requirements

Assistance contact details

• Any behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

If you or a guest you’re flying with requires a wheelchair to reach or depart the plane, we’re here to help.

specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Use of photography on board today

Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays

• You’re very welcome to take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

Simply get in touch with us at least 48 hours in advance of your trip, let us know your booking reference number and we’ll take care of this for you.

UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

However: • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

MONAGHAN’S

CASHMERE STORE Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide

Tom & Suzanne Monaghan

A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom and Suzanne Monaghan in their store at 21 South Anne Street. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere selling a wide range of classic sweaters in the latest styles and colours for both men and women.

As they celebrate 59 years Tom and Suzanne would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents (terms and conditions apply)

M Monaghans Cashmere, 21 South Anne Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

www.monaghanscashmere.ie

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Your comfort and safety Your portable electronic devices You’re very welcome to use portable electronic equipment on this flight, but to help keep you safe we ask that you follow our guidelines below.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, minidisk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys.

For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before take-off. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Switch your device to flight mode or the flight safe setting during taxi, take-off and landing.

If you’d like to use your phone during your flight, switch it to flight safe mode. If your device doesn’t have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing, when the cabin crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are welcome to use your phone – provided it’s within easy reach. It’s important that you stay seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew when we land.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

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About AerSpace With our new premium short-haul travel experience you get more space to work or relax because we’ll always leave the middle seat free. And with lounge access, Fast Track security and priority boarding you’ll breeze through the airport. Arrive at your best with AerSpace.

AerSpace is launching on September 1 and is available to book now on aerlingus.com.

What benefits come with AerSpace?

Dedicated seating, with the centre seat always empty

20kg check-in bag allowance

Fast track security access at Dublin Airport

Lounge access (where applicable)

Priority boarding

Dedicated overhead locker space for your bags

Complimentary food and beverages on board from our Bia menu

Subject to conditions & availability.

FOR OVER 175 YEARS EVERYONE HAS ENJOYED A WARM IRISH WELCOME IN THE TEMPLE BAR. LOVERS OF IRISH WHISKEY CAN EXPERIERENCE IRELANDS LARGEST WHISKEY COLLECTION, COMPLIMENTED WITH LIVE IRISH MUSIC SESSIONS DAILY AT THE FRIENDLIEST SPOT IN DUBLIN.

2016 winner

2016 2017 winner

2018 2017 winner

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INFLIGHT

Flight connections Dublin and London Heathrow Airports Flight connections at Dublin Airport

Flight connections at T2 London Heathrow On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

YES

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

NO

Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’.

After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

All other destinations

USA

Follow signs for US Preclearance

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes.

If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Where are you flying to today?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

Passport Control and Security Screening

Geataí Gates

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations.

Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

101-335

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Gate Information Screens

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

Departure gate Enjoy free Wi-Fi in Dublin Airport

Enjoy a FREE night tour with all Classic tickets. Simply say BigFlight19 when purchasing your tickets.

Speak to a member of staff at stops or buy from your driver

bigbustours.com / infodublin@bigbustours.com

Classic with Free Night Tour will be offered by uniformed members of Big Bus staff only at stops or on bus and only when the discount code is given. Promotion cannot be redeemed through any other channel including online purchase or Big Bus partners.

No other discount can be combined with the offer.

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal

manufactured before your eyes Guided Factory Tours Daily

C: +353 (0) 51 317000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com W: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

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Explore the world with us

Anchorage Juneau

Ketchikan

Edmonton Saskatoon Vanc Bel

Victoria

Seattle

Calgary

Portland

Regina

Eugene

Winnipeg

Vancouver Bellingham

Victoria

Wenatchee

Seattle

Thunder Bay

Kalispell Spokane Pullman

Pasco

Great Falls Belgrade

Portland

Sacramento

San Jose

Ottawa Traverse

Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Omaha

Reno

Kansas City

Oakland Fresno

Fort Wayne Akron Canton

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Oklahoma City

Tucson

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

San Antonio

Houston

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis

New York JFK

Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

Philadelphia

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Charlotte Columbia

Charleston

El Paso Austin

Newark

Boston Hyannis

Washington (National)

Lexington

Little Rock Phoenix

Providence

Washington (Dulles)

Nashville

Tulsa

Hartford Pittsburgh

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore Cincinnati

Portland ME

Albany

Rochester

Dayton

Indianapolis

Springfield Las Vegas

Buffalo

Cleveland

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Syracuse

Detroit

St Louis

Halifax

Burlington

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Chicago

Des Moines

Denver

Moncton Fredericton

Montreal

Billings

Medford

Santa Rosa

Duluth

Minneapolis–St Paul

Redmond Eugene

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Walla Walla

Yakima

Missoula

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Honolulu Kahului

Key West

Honolulu Kahului

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

INFLIGHT

We fly to more than 100 destinations across the US, Canada, Europe, the UK and Ireland. We’ve also got great partnerships with JetBlue, British Airways and many more airlines to connect you to even more destinations. Where’s next on your travel wishlist?

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Save time with US Preclearance You’ll clear US immigration in Dublin or Shannon Airport before you board your flight with us to the US. That means arriving in the US as a domestic passenger and avoiding those immigration queues.

Aer Lingus European and North American network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated

by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

Berlin

London London Heathrow City

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg Amsterdam

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Southampton

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante Malaga

Athens Catania

Faro

Tenerife Tenerife

Lanzarote Lanzarote Fuerteventura Fuerteventura

Gran Canaria Gran Canaria

Route map correct at time of print.

Destinations and schedules subject to change.

Izmir

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Connections to Middle East & Australasia

Dublin

London Heathrow

Dubai Abu Dhabi

Sydney

Melbourne

You can book flights from Dublin to the Middle East and Australia at aerlingus.com with our codeshare partners, British Airways and Etihad Airways.

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

See the city like a local.

The DoDublin Card includes : • • • • • •

Direct Airlink Transfer Hop on Hop off City Tour Dublin Bus Travel FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum Entry 3 Day Card for €35

Buy Tickets at : Bus & Travel Information Desk (T1 Arrivals Hall) or Airlink Bus Stop (T1 & T2)

Dublin’s Best Sightseeing & Travel Pass

Airlink Express Hop on Hop off Dublin Bus

dodublin.ie

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Let’s get you connected Keep chatting, sharing and discovering Connect to our inflight Wi-Fi 1

Connect to our Mobile Network* 1

Turn on your device and connect to Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Turn on your device and switch off flight-safe mode

(A330 and A321neoLR)

If the Aeromobile Network doesn’t connect straight away, select it via your Network settings

2 Launch your browser, click ‘Buy Internet Access’ and purchase a plan Choose from the following plans

AerSocial €6.95 | $7.95 Up to 50MB

AerSurf €13.95 | $15.95 Up to 120MB The smart choice

AerMax €29.95 | $32.95 Up to 270MB

3 Enter a username and password and start browsing

2 Once you’re connected, you’ll receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile

*Mobile Network is available on A330 only

Historic O’Neill’s Pub & Kitchen

FAMOUS MOLLY MALONE STATUE OPPOSITE O’ ’NEILL O’NEILL’S

Conveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

• Traditional Irish Music and Dancers 7 nights-a-week, No Charge • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts • HD TV Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games

• Heated Roof Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area with TV Screens so you wont miss the winning goal • Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

FOR OVER 175 YEARS EVERYONE HAS ENJOYED A WARM IRISH WELCOME IN THE TEMPLE BAR. LOVERS OF IRISH WHISKEY CAN EXPERIERENCE IRELANDS LARGEST WHISKEY COLLECTION, COMPLIMENTED WITH LIVE IRISH MUSIC SESSIONS DAILY AT THE FRIENDLIEST SPOT IN DUBLIN.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

2016 winner

Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland

Opposing fans enjoying the game on one of O’Neill’s big screens

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656. www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm / Fri: 8.00am-12.30am / Sat: 8.00am-12.30am / Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

2016 2017 winner

2018 2017 winner

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Welcome to your world -class airline We’re so proud of our 4-star Skytrax rating. Being celebrated on the world stage for our consistent quality and excellence in guest experience never gets old. We hope you enjoy your ight with us today.

Fรกilte Approved

Pub

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BOUTIQUE

TOP PICKS Short on suitcase space? No problem, with these pocket-sized products from Boutique magazine.

WATERFORD ALANA PENDANT €99 Rose gold (14ct) with glittering white stones, this versatile necklace sparkles with any outfit, making it the perfect travel accessory, wherever you fly this autumn.

ALPHA H LIQUID GOLD €26 This handy overnight facial treatment restores tired skin using silk proteins and liquorice extract. Just apply before bedtime (or falling asleep on a red-eye).

ELIZABETH ARDEN VISIBLE DIFFERENCE REPLENISHING HYDRAGEL COMPLEX €20 This oil-free moisturiser deeply hydrates skin and evens skin tone, so you can feel cool and collected however you arrive at your destination.

HUGO BOSS BOSS DUO €49 At work and play, this cologne duo keeps it simple. Try Tonic, with citrus and woody scents, for daytime, and Boss Bottled, with apple, cinnamon and sandalwood, for evening adventures.

INSTANT EFFECTS 3D LIP PLUMPING TREATMENT €23 One swipe of this two-minute miracle plumper will keep your lips looking naturally full and hydrated after a long-haul flight.

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

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A FINE VINTAGE

SHINING EXAMPLE Crowds gathered at Dublin Airport in 1954, to welcome the innovative Vickers Viscount airliner.

T

his photograph from the Aer Lingus archive shows the airline’s first Vickers Viscount 707, registration EI-AFV. Named St Patrick, the plane arrived at the terminal building, Dublin Airport, on March 7, 1954, at the end of its delivery flight from Bournemouth, where it was built.

Aer Lingus was only the third airline in the world to take delivery of the Viscount, which was revolutionary at the time, being the first turboprop airliner to enter service. It was considerably faster than the pistonengined aircraft of the era and was also Aer Lingus’

first pressurised aircraft able to fly above most of the turbulent weather. Another notable feature of the aircraft was the size of the passenger windows, which were far larger than the aircraft of its day.

Aer Lingus’ first two Viscount 707s were delivered together on March 7 and it was a huge publicity event – as evidenced by the large crowds on the handsome Modernist building’s viewing balconies. On its delivery flight, EI-AFV was under the command of Captain RN White, the first pilot to receive an Irish licence to fly turbine aircraft, and co-pilot Captain G Wade.

JOURNEY FURTHER FOR LESS Save up to 20% on your next car hire in the Avis sale. Simply make a reservation by 30th September, for pick-ups between 30th August and 15th December, and start your next adventure.

In addition, if you’re an AerClub member you can collect 3 Avios per €1 spent, with a minimum of 500 Avios awarded on every rental.

WWW.CARS.AERLINGUS.COM

For full terms and conditions visit www.cars.aerlingus.com