HIGHER POWER Music star Loah on the ascent
REBEL BELLE Summer shenanigans in Cork City
PACIFIC QUAFFS Mellow fruitfulness in the Northwest
WARM AND NATURAL BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS
shop online @ blarney.com
CONTENTS JUNE 2019
CHECK IN 4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news and announcements 8 ARRIVALS We say hi to inbound travellers at T2 13 CHECK IN Synchronise your calendars for this month’s hottest tickets and prospects 26 DETOURIST Eoin Higgins feasts on Hamburg’s tasty Karolinenviertel neighbourhood 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican vicariously visits Paris and spies the latest reads and events 32 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Sculptor Eva Rothschild reveals her favourite art cities
FEATURES
38 LOAH’S ARC Tony Clayton-Lea talks grooves with the rising music star aka Sallay Garnett 44 THE FESTIVAL SEASON Glowsticks at the ready – Derek O’Connor meets music-fest masters 52 CORK ACCENTS Local grá Jo Linehan reveals the “Rebel City’s” coolest quarters 64 PACIFIC LIBATIONS Aoife Carrigy raises a glass to the ciders and wines of Washington State 82 HIGH HOPES Lucy White moseys around Miami’s thriving Downtown 92 CATALAN CHARM Piotr Dybowski rambles around more than just La Rambla, Barcelona
REGULARS
BUSINESS
75 10 BEST SCULPTURE PARKS 109 BUSINESS & LIFE Thomas Breathnach’s outdoor art Are you going to San Francisco? 101 FIVE IRISH GREENWAYS Elizabeth Heath has the skinny Nicola Brady saddles up for Ireland’s 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE finest cycle paths and country hikes MD Michael Kelly takes us behind 106 48 HOURS IN SEATTLE the scenes at Glandore Maggy Lehmicke’s nutshell guide 118 GOOD CHIMES 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Nancy Rockett rings The Bells, Leeds On-board info, entertainment and retail and spotlights three new hotels 152 A FINE VINTAGE 120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Time-travelling through Aer Lingus’ Bank of Ireland Group CEO Francesca photographic archive McDonagh shares her working wisdom
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WELCOME ABOARD With the return of summer comes new routes, more choice, more legroom – and more reasons to fly Aer Lingus.
W
elcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly with us today. The summer season is finally upon us and will be another record-breaking one for Aer Lingus as we operate our busiest summer service to date, offering our guests increased choice. Summer 2019 will see the return of more than 30 European sun routes to popular destinations including Alicante, Dubrovnik, Faro, Gran Canaria, Lisbon, Málaga, Marseille, Nice, Palma, Pisa and Split to name but a handful. We recently unveiled two new routes from Cork: Dubrovnik and Nice, in addition to Lisbon, which makes up 23 destinations from the Rebel City, providing new travel opportunities for the county and reaffirming Aer Lingus as the largest airline operating at Cork Airport. We’re constantly looking at ways to improve our guest experience with new products and innovations. Recently we brought you our new Aer Credit Card developed in partnership with Bank of Ireland, along with ‘Pay with Avios’ allowing AerClub members to redeem Avios when booking flights on aerlingus.com and in the Aer Lingus app, allowing for even greater savings on flights. Further to these innovations, Aer Lingus is thrilled to introduce a new fare option which gives greater comfort and convenience to our guests in the form of AerSpace, our new premium travel experience for short haul trips, commencing on September 1, 2019. AerSpace guests will have reserved seating on the first row of the aircraft on our most popular routes across the UK and mainland
Europe, leaving the middle seat free, allowing for more space to work or simply relax as you fly. Not only will those choosing AerSpace enjoy a suite of complimentary services, including reserved cabin space directly overhead, Fast Track security, lounge access, priority boarding and on-board refreshments from the Aer Lingus’ on board menu, AerClub members will also collect Avios on their AerSpace purchase. We are proud to launch AerSpace in response to feedback from our guests seeking a more premium and spacious travel experience when flying short haul with Aer Lingus. This month Aer Lingus takes pride of place as the official airline of Dublin Pride LGBT Festival 2019. If you’re planning on attending the extravaganza, look out for the Aer Lingus float as it moves through the colourful parade. The lively event is one of many highlights listed in our Check In section, from New York’s Museum Mile to the release of Papi Chulo, a heartwarming new movie by the Irish director – and sometime Cara contributor – John Butler. Find out more on page 13. Also in this month’s issue, Tony ClaytonLea catches up with our cover star, the Irish-Sierra Leonean singer/songwriter Loah – turn to page 38 to chart her rising stardom – and Derek O’Connor meets the movers and shakers shaping Ireland’s summer festival landscape from page 44. Thank you for reading and have a pleasant journey.
STRETCH OUT Like having your own space? AerSpace is Aer Lingus’ new premium travel experience for short haul guests that’s available to book now and will commence from September 1.
CHANGE MAKERS Aer Lingus is delighted to launch Travel Money in partnership with Fexco. The new foreign currency exchange solution offers guests an easy way to convert currency in advance of their trip. For more info visit aerlingus.fexco.com.
Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.
HIT PARADE For a second year, Aer Lingus is the official airline of Dublin LGBT Pride Festival 2019. Throw your hands in the air like you do care when you see our colourful float in the parade on June 29.
EDITORIAL
EDITOR Lucy White DEPUTY EDITOR Eoin Higgins EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Shayna Sappington SUB-EDITOR Sheila Wayman CONTRIBUTORS Melisa Boyalikli, Nicola Brady, Thomas Breathnach, Leo Byrne, Aoife Carrigy, Tony Clayton-Lea, Mark Duggan, Piotr Dybowski, Elizabeth Heath, Bridget Hourican, Melanie Mullan, Maggy Lehmicke, Oksana Lobanova, Thais Muniz, Elly Watson
ART
ART DIRECTOR Niamh Richardson CREATIVE DIRECTOR Bill O’Sullivan
ADVERTISING
ADVERTISING MANAGER Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie ADVERTISING COPY CONTACT Derek Skehan, +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie
ADMINISTRATION
FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Brett Walker ACCOUNTS MANAGER Lisa Dickenson CREDIT CONTROLLER Angela Bennett CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Clodagh Edwards
GROUP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lizzie Gore-Grimes GROUP CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Melanie Morris GROUP EDITOR AT LARGE Laura George EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Ann Reihill
BOARD OF DIRECTORS
CHAIRMAN Laura George DIRECTORS Patrick Dillon Malone, Clodagh Edwards, Melanie Morris, Robert Power
PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.
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CEO Clare Broadbent BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Christina da Silva COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Justine Daly CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stuart Purcell FINANCE DIRECTOR Jane Moffett STRATEGY & BUSINESS DIRECTOR Ann Hartland +44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK
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CONTRIBUTORS Derek O’Connor is the online culture editor for Ireland’s national broadcaster, RTÉ, where he champions the cream of Irish creativity on a daily basis. He recently relocated to Dublin with his family after two decades in the wilds of Donegal and is thoroughly enjoying the incredible variety of artistic endeavour on offer. An award-winning filmmaker and playwright, to boot, Derek spotlights the organisers of Ireland’s new wave of boutique summer festivals – page 44 – intending to sample as many as possible.
Dublin-based photographer Fionn McCann has been working in the commercial and art world for the last 15 years, with exhibits in the Gallery of Photography and Royal Hibernian Academy and has also received bursary awards for projects in Peru, Ethiopia, Rwanda and Kenya. He was shortlisted for the Zurich Portrait Prize and his work has been purchased by the National Gallery of Ireland. For his Cara debut, Fionn got to the heart of the “Rebel County” to reveal a multilayered and vibrant destination – see page 52.
Diego Texera is a Miami-based commercial and editorial photographer, and a native of Venezuela. For the past 15 years he has specialised in lifestyle, travel and food, deriving inspiration from a well-travelled eye and never-ending curiosity. He is creative by heart and technical by experience; a blend that creates thought-provoking images for clients such as Gatorade, McDonald’s and Royal Caribbean. In his first commission for Cara – page 82 – Diego captured Downtown Miami’s true essence and exhilarating contrasts.
© 2019 Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.
ON THE COVER
Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie.
HIGHER POWER Music star Loah on the ascent
REBEL BELLE Summer shenanigans in Cork City
PACIFIC QUAFFS Mellow fruitfulness in the Northwest
Loah was photographed by Eoin Higgins at Mahaffy House, North Great George’s St, courtesy of Ms Desiree Shortt. Styling by Melisa Boyalikli, with thanks to Thais Muniz, makeup by Oksana Lobanova.
WELCOME TO OUR NEW ISSUE! WE ARE ALL YOURS. FEEL FREE TO TAKE THIS MAGAZINE AWAY FOR YOUR ONWARD JOURNEY. WE WOULD ALSO LOVE YOUR FEEDBACK AND TRAVEL PHOTOS VIA TWITTER @CARAMAGAZINE.
Pictured above are members of Matheson’s Financial Institutions Group, with Head of Group Darren Maher (front centre)
Strength in Depth Our Financial Institutions Group combines lawyers with extensive industry experience, corporate transactional expertise and regulatory knowledge who are solely focused on financial institutions. We have worked extensively over many years with a broad range of financial institutions, both domestic and global, including banks, insurers and investment managers. We continually look to use the breadth and depth of our experience to benefit our clients. In our view, dedicated teams with extensive industry sector knowledge offer the best value for clients. Matheson – The law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland. We are adding to our team both in Cork and Dublin. To find out more about these opportunities or to discuss your Irish legal needs, please contact darren.maher@matheson.com or your usual Matheson contact.
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www.matheson.com
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WHO? Colin, Delaney, Wendy and Karl Ryan FLYING IN FROM … Málaga WENDY SAYS … “We are returning from a holiday in Spain. We’re a dual Irish-American family and love being able to come home to Dublin.”
WHO? Tyler Bramley-Dymond and Alice Kennedy FLYING IN FROM … Bristol ALICE SAYS … “We came to explore Dublin and see the Guinness Factory.”
WHO? Liam and Tom Martin FLYING IN FROM … London LIAM SAYS … “The Brendan Martin Cup is named after our brother, who is being honoured in our hometown of Tullamore. It’s also our 84th birthday next week, so we’ve lots to celebrate.”
WHO? Jan Courtney FLYING IN FROM … Los Angeles JAN SAYS … “I am an American on an Ireland and Scotland tour. Next stop, Edinburgh.”
WHO? Guillaume Jules-Marthé and Emica Alberte FLYING IN FROM … Paris GUILLAUME SAYS … “This is our first visit to Ireland, and it is for a wedding.”
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN & WORDS BY SHAYNA SAPPINGTON
ARRIVALS
We spotted these frequent flyers travelling for their summer holidays. T2 was buzzing!
runway to road
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Don’t forget to download the app when you land
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Walking directions from Terminal 2 to our pick up point at Zone 18 car park 1
Walk through the glass tunnel at arrivals
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Cross the road at the zebra crossing
2
Take a left after Zone 1-18 car park sign
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Continue under the covered walkway
3
Go down one level via lift or escalator
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Take the first right towards Zone 18 car park
Download Ireland’s No.1 Taxi App.
BLARNEY CASTLE
&
GARDENS
Renowned for Bestowing the Gift of Eloquence Each visit to the gardens at Blarney Castle is always a unique experience. The grounds change remarkably with the seasons and new surprises await you around every corner. The 70 acres of gardens are a must see destination, and the estate boasts one of Ireland’s finest collections of trees and plants from all corners of the world. As Ireland’s first Wildlife Estate, it stands to reason that this haven so close to the city is a wonderful location to be close to nature. A stealthy visitor may spot an elusive kingfisher along the riverside walks or a red squirrel in the arboretum. It’s no surprise that Blarney’s gardens are the most visited in Ireland. There is something for everyone, from the amateur gardener to the seasoned plantsman or the family out to explore. Follow the map to find the historic and magical Rock Close with it’s Wishing Steps and Witch’s Kitchen; or the deadly Poison Garden, the Jurassic Fern Garden or the hidden Himalayan Valley.
Visiting gardens just got so much more exciting!
June 9am – 7pm (last admission 6pm) www.blarneycastle.ie | info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork)
CHECK IN ALESSANDRO MICHELE FOR GUCCI; COURTESY OF GUCCI HISTORICAL ARCHIVE; IMAGE COURTESY OF THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART, PHOTO © JOHNNY DUFORT, 2018
EAT | READ | GO
L’OEIL POLLOI Last month, civilians cooed and chuckled at celebrities strutting their stuff on the pink carpet of New York’s Met Gala, where tickets cost up to $35k per head. Fortunately, admission to the tie-in exhibition, Camp: Notes on Fashion, are more affordable at $25 and, there, Joe Public can swoon at more than 250 objects exploring self-expression through the lens of Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay Notes on Camp. Louis XIV, dandies, gay culture and mainstream crossovers are all represented via flamboyant textiles, accessories, paintings and drawings. Until September 8. metmuseum.org
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SCOTT RUDD EVENTS
ARTS BEAT Across New York City, seven momentous museums unite for the 41st annual Museum Mile Festival on June 11, 6pm-9pm. Along Fifth Avenue, from 82nd to 105th streets, cultural institutions throw open their doors free for various exhibitions that demonstrate essential moments for Latin American and contemporary art, agricultural innovation, rock ‘n’ roll and the LGBT community. Much anticipated is the Jewish Museum’s Leonard Cohen exhibition, dedicated to the imagination and legacy of the emblematic singer/songwriter and poet. museummilefestival.org
BASEL BRUSH On from June 11-16, Photo Basel is one of the most innovative international photography events of the season, and one that promises to “portray the usual in the most unusual light”. No small order, however, the camera pioneers and gallerists who showcase at Volkshaus Basel are typically some of the world’s most respected, connected and creative. Immerse yourself in a world of still images that move – a mustsee in Switzerland this summer. photo-basel.com
ANGELENO TIMES Papi Chulo had its world premiere at this year’s Dublin International Film Festival and, on June 7, it goes on general release in Ireland and the US. Directed by Irish director (and some-time Cara contributor) John “Handsome Devil” Butler, the film is set in modern-day LA and stars Matt Bomer (American Horror Story) as a beleaguered weatherman who forms an unlikely friendship with a Mexican migrant worker (Alejandro Patiño) employed to paint his house. Moving and mirthsome: quintessential Butler.
MAIN IMAGE: DAESUNG LEE, UNTITLED (2014). FUTURISTIC ARCHAEOLOGY SERIES. IMAGE COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND GALERIE &CO119
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PRIDE OF PLACE
Starting with just ten people in 1972, the Dublin Pride Parade has quickly grown to become one of the largest events in Ireland. Last year, 60,000 revellers joined the march – including Aer Lingus, which is the official airline of the event and had more than 200 staff and loved ones flanking its aeroplane float, left – in support of the LGBT community. The 2019 parade on June 29 will start at the Garden of Remembrance, move past Merrion Square and climax with a block party at the National Museum. dublinpride.ie
COURT APPEARANCES The Hampton Court Palace Festival has to be one of the best ways to experience music al fresco this summer. Situated in a picturesque Tudor Courtyard in Henry VIII’s former London pad, enjoy a gourmet picnic before gathering in the auditorium for dazzling entertainment. Running from June 6-22, the line-up of performers includes Jools Holland, Caro Emerald and Tears for Fears. Want to truly experience life in a Tudor Palace? Book a waterside gazebo or VIP package to dine in the sumptuous State Apartments, where you can take in the full splendour of the Baroque beauty. hamptoncourtpalacefestival.com
BLOOM TO IMPROVE GORGEOUS GARDEN DESIGNS AND BREATHTAKING BOUQUETS FILL THE HEART OF DUBLIN’S PHOENIX PARK AT THIS YEAR’S BLOOM EVENT. THE INSPIRING DISPLAYS ATTRACT HORTICULTURE ENTHUSIASTS ACROSS THE COUNTRY. WITH THE SUPPORT OF BORD BIA, BLOOM HAS CREATED THE ULTIMATE GREENERY SHOWCASE, ENRICHED WITH A GREATER DIVERSITY OF PLANT LIFE THAN TRADITIONAL GARDEN SHOWS. FROM MAY 30 UNTIL JUNE 3, FAMILIES CAN ENJOY A WEEKEND AMIDST THE FLOWERS, ENGAGE IN WORKSHOPS, CRAFT DEMOS, A FARM EXPERIENCE AND EDUCATION SESSIONS ABOUT HEALTHY EATING. BLOOMINTHE PARK.COM
POP IN FOR A VISIT. STAY FOR A JAMESON. BOOK NOW JAMESONWHISKEY.COM
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DIASPORA
PRINTS CHARMING Leon Barron from New Ross in Co Wexford is a forensic scientist and senior lecturer at King’s College, London. He leads an environmental and forensic chemistry research group that focuses on new approaches to the detection of environmental hazards and criminal activity. He moved to the UK in 2009 and lives in Tooting, West London. Why London? At that time there were a lot of people leaving Ireland, often for far-flung places, so I was lucky to find something so close to home. London can be a hard teacher, but you learn so much about the world and it’s all right on your doorstep. I love its cultural diversity most of all. Why forensics? I grew up watching TV crime dramas so forensics was ingrained in me from an early age. Ten years ago, I saw an exciting job opportunity at King’s College London to teach and lead my own research team, so it was a bit of a self-fulfilling prophecy. I now investigate everything from detecting drugs, to fingerprints, to DNA. I studied chemistry at Dublin City University and back then I was working more in environmental science, to find pollution in rivers. But I had most of the relevant skills already to transition into forensics relatively easily. Career highlights to date? I am interested in environmental forensics, which focuses on using the environment around us to detect criminal activity. That can mean anything from developing early warning systems to “sniff out” explosives in the air, to identifying new types of chemical pollution that harm wildlife. Recently, I “drug tested” entire cities from all over the world using their wastewater to monitor cocaine and amphetamine use. The European Monitoring Centre for Drugs and Drug Addiction now use our results to
understand drug misuse across the EU. My team also worked with the Metropolitan Police Service in London to develop new ways to retrieve fingerprints from poached items, such as elephant ivory, rhino horn and pangolin scales. This has had a huge impact globally, and it’s in use in more than 40 countries now. We’ve already had several arrests using this technology. How would you explain our insatiable interest in detective dramas and true crime? I think we are always fascinated by the “hunt” for justice. I suspect a lot of people want to understand better the way that criminals think and how they try to cover up their tracks (or don’t in some cases). Personally, I’ve always found it really interesting to understand how something you can’t see can be used to catch criminals. It’s a bit like magic really, even when you do eventually understand the science behind it. Favourite on-screen crime dramas? Some shows put effort into the science behind the story, such as Silent Witness and Dexter. Some don’t put any effort in at all and are hilarious, which is still entertaining. I prefer “whodunnits” and I like period crime shows, to see how they coped without having all the technology we have now. For that reason, I love the Inspector Morse spin-off Endeavour and especially Agatha Christie’s Poirot, although I wish I had as many “little grey cells” as he did!
How do you de-stress? I love listening to music and playing guitar. I’m a mad science fiction fan too. It’s probably just the nerd in me (yes, I like The Big Bang Theory ...). I also have a rather unhealthy Star Wars addiction and cannot wait for Episode IX. How would you describe your London neighbourhood? I’m very lucky to live in Tooting. It’s an absolutely wonderful melting pot, there’s so much going on all the time. September’s Tootopia is a three-day celebration of its food, drink and diverse culture, while Tooting and Broadway Markets are a foodie’s heaven. There are so many pubs and wine bars to choose from, but my favourite is The Mitre, which has a brilliant menu and is very kid friendly. Your favourite haunts in Ireland? I love the sea, so my go-to spots are Hook Head and Curracloe in Co Wexford and Dún Laoghaire, Howth and Skerries in Co Dublin. In Dublin City, a pint of Guinness in John Kavanagh’s, aka “The Gravediggers”, is also a must for me; it’s near where I used to live. There’s a lot of history in my hometown of New Ross too, for example, John F Kennedy’s Irish roots are there; the JFK Arboretum memorial is a nice day out and the Dunbrody Famine Ship is well worth a visit. Corcoran’s pub is where people from the area bought their White Star Line tickets, including for the Titanic, and is nice for food, drink and traditional Irish music.
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WALKIE TALKIE “A trail of tales and scéals across the streets of Cork” … As part of Cork’s Midsummer Festival (June 22-23), Crosstown Drift offers a magnetic line-up of spoken wordsmiths, writers, poets and rabbiting raconteurs (including Denisa Chaila, left, Linton Kwesi Johnson, Kevin Barry, Sinéad Gleeson and many more) performing in interesting and unusual locations across the city. Choose from five main events, a highlight being the Writers’ Dinner featuring one-off readings and a feast in one of Cork’s finest dining rooms, at Crawford Café. corkmidsummer.com
HIGH FLIERS FUN FAMILIES SHOULD CHECK OUT THE NEW STATE-OFTHE-ART ATTRACTION AT TAYTO PARK IN CO MEATH THIS MONTH AS AIRPORT-THEMED RIDE FLIGHT SCHOOL TAKES TO THE AIR. GENTLY PACED, THE RIDE IS STILL EXCITING ENOUGH TO GIVE YOUNG PILOTS A TASTE OF WHAT IT’S LIKE TO NAVIGATE THE SKIES. TAYTOPARK.IE
KERRY GOLD On the scenic edge of
Caragh Lake in Killorglin sits the luxurious and cosy country house hotel, Ard na Sídhe. The award-winning accommodation is minutes away from the enchanting Ring of Kerry and Dingle Peninsula, where guests can stroll, cycle or drive alongside stunning, coastal vistas. Taste Kerry classics such as fresh Atlantic salmon and goat’s cheese risotto in the hotel’s restaurant and nearby outdoor markets. Inspired by ancient Gaelic ruins, this hotel is the perfect summer spot for a Grand Irish Getaway. ardnasidhe.com
Cy Twombly: Natural History comprises two portfolios: Natural History I and II, exhibited as a complete set in the first Twombly solo exhibition to take place in London since 2015. Amongst the most influential series in the American artist’s œuvre, the works on show in Mayfair’s Bastian Gallery explore the relationship between natural and human history, and our relentless desire to classify, label and categorise the unknown … file under “essential viewing”. Until June 15. bastian-gallery.com
CY TWOMBLY, NATURAL HISTORY PART I NO. VII, 1974. LITHOGRAPH & MIXED MEDIA ON PAPER. © CY TWOMBLY FOUNDATION. COURTESY BASTIAN, LONDON
CY OPS The exhibition
THE WORLD’S MOST MAGNIFICENT CASTLE HOTEL C E L E B R AT I N G 8 0 Y E A R S O F H O S P I TA L I T Y Enter through grand stone gates to discover an 800-year-old castle and former home to the Guinness family. Overlooking Lough Corrib, Ashford Castle is renowned for its warm Irish hospitality, exceptional dining experiences and an unrivalled range of estate activities - all set within the magnificent 350-acre Ashford estate. BEST OF THE BEST IN THE WORLD by Virtuoso
Ashford Castle, Cong, Co. Mayo T: +353 (0) 9495 46003 | E: ashford@ashfordcastle.com ASHFORDCASTLE.COM
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DINNER LA MERENDA, NICE Whenever I’m in the famous French city, I never pass the door of this restaurant. Like me, the chef-patron, Dominique Le Stanc, trained at Lenôtre in Paris and went on to head a two-star Michelin restaurant. He gave it all up to set up this petit trésor, which takes no bookings (they don’t have a phone) and has space for just 20 covers. The produce is local, as are the recipes for the rustic dishes written out daily on a blackboard. Chef’s daube of beef in red wine sauce is deliciously rich in flavour and perfectly tender. lamerenda.net
LUNCH LA TABLE DU LAVOIR, BORDEAUX Lunch on holiday should be an escape. This bistro at Les Sources de Caudalie hotel in Bordeaux offers a near perfect one. You will immediately feel relaxed here and its location in the middle of the Grand Cru vineyards of Château Smith Haut Lafitte, means there’s a guarantee of great wine. The gastronomy at La Grand’Vigne, above, is impressive, but the pot au feu in the bistro is also a winner. If you’re feeling up to it, you can go for a cycle through the vineyards afterwards. sources-caudalie.com
FOOD FLIGHT This café is certainly tucked away, two floors above a food market – and not immediately appealing – but its popularity with locals is reassuring. My wife and I nab a window seat, so we can watch Broadway go about its business. There’s traditional American fare – silver dollar pancakes, perfectly cooked eggs and steel-cut oatmeal. fairwaymarket.com DRINKS TABARD INN, WASHINGTON DC I’m not a man for cocktails. I like a glass of good wine. It used to be Bordeaux, but now I’m leaning towards Burgundy. We celebrated my recent Ordre de Mérite award with a Savigny les Beaune 2012 by Francoise André. It was impeccable. When I think of pre-dinner drinks, one place in Washington DC, a great city to visit, comes to mind – the Tabard Inn in Dupont Circle. It has that “crackling fireside” appeal. It has a good wine selection too, as well as a host of cocktails for those so inclined. tabardinn.com
PORTRAIT BY BARRY McCALL
BRUNCH 74 ST CAFÉ, MANHATTAN
Guillaume Lebrun is executive chef of Ireland’s only two-star Michelin restaurant, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud. After almost four decades at the helm of the Guilbaud kitchen, he has been recognised nationally and internationally and has won numerous awards and accolades. He was recently awarded the Ordre du Mérite Agricole by the French government for his role in upholding the best of French gastronomy in Ireland for over 30 years.
Ireland has given far more to the world than stereotypes Discover the influence of the men and women who left and the Irish culture they brought with them. Explore stories of adventure, love and tragedy that have shaped Irish history. Get a free ticket to The Jeanie Johnston with any ticket to EPIC – mention Cara Magazine. Don’t just visit Ireland. Understand it. #EPICmuseum
EUROPEAN MUSEUM OF THE YEAR 2018 SHORTLISTED
BEST OF THE WORLD
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PAIR STYLE Discover a selection of Ireland’s more interesting craft tipples – and some deeply satisfying dishes – via the new, four-course tasting menu at Stack A Restaurant, part of Urban Brewing, in Dublin’s Docklands. A highlight? The duo of grass-fed Irish beef with smoked potato, forest mushrooms and braising jus – accompanied by a whiskey-barrel-aged red ale – is highly gratifying. All served up in a conversation-starting setting, beneath the city in 200-year-old vaults. urbanbrewing.ie
GRUB’S UP
Eoin Higgins offers a taste of things to come.
RAVE LA CHAPELLE On a food scene as vibrant as London’s, it’s
tempting to seek constantly the latest openings. And while fresh foodie FOMO can be a good catalyst for discovering the Next Big Thing, it shouldn’t necessarily trump a return visit to a classic. Spitalfields’ La Chapelle – currently celebrating ten years in business and its ninth consecutive year with a Michelin star – is one such copper-bottomed backstop. Feast on punchy, flavourful classics like tagine of Bresse pigeon with couscous, confit lemon and harissa (it’s been on the menu since day one) served with flair, in a Grade II-listed former chapel, and you’ll see why so many of London’s discerning grub hounds keep coming back for seconds. galvinrestaurants.com
5 VEGAN HEROES
Cauliflower Wings, Vish.Shop Toothsome chunks of fiery florets slathered in a tongue-tantalising, sriracha sauce. Improved only by the addition of Vish.Shop’s just-asmoreish, thrice-cooked chips. 1 Blessington Street, Dublin 7, 01 558 2938; @vish_shop
A selection of decidedly unbeastly Dublin dishes.
Chef’s Board, Beo Nibbling on plantbased bites in this minimalist room feels satisfying and ecovirtuous, so why not add a glass of organic and/or biodynamic wine to toast your good sense? 50a Manor Street, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7, 01 555 5291; beokitchen.ie
The Vegan Pizza, Paulies Pizza Vegan mozzarella, red pepper, spinach, courgette, tomato and basil, all add up to more than their sum for the city’s finest meat-free feast. 58 Upper Grand Canal Street, Dublin 4, 01 664 3658; paulies.ie
Potato Gnocchi, Sova Vegan Butcher Plump, pillowy potato gnocchi, a rich creamy mushroom sauce and a sprinkling of nutty, savoury cashew Parmesan makes for a deceptively simple, good value main course. 51 Pleasants Street, Dublin 8, 086 775 8549; sovaveganbutcher.ie
Porridge, Cornucopia Serving ace veggie and vegan lunches, dinners and desserts since 1986. Breakfast time is no different. Try the millet porridge with rice milk, banana, passion fruit and agave – a creaturecomforting morning marvel. 19-20 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2, 01 677 7583; cornucopia.ie
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DETOURIST Eoin Higgins finds the bohemian heart of Hamburg’s Karolinenviertel neighbourhood beating strong.
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xisting in stark, yet welcome, contrast to the gleaming modernity of some of Hamburg’s less gnarled districts, perma-kooky Karolinenviertel, bordering the magical Planten un Blomen park, is a fine example of gentrification gone right. This once impoverished neighbourhood is currently home to some of the best creative treasures the innovative German city has to offer.
LISTEN New and used: hip-hop, soul, jazz, African, Middle Eastern, electronica, soundtracks and more. From rare grooves to stone-cold classics, dogged crate diggers and weekend dabblers alike rejoice at the thoughtfully curated selection in the acclaimed Groove City Recordstore. Lots of kudos-grabbing souvenir merch’ available too. groovecityrecordstore.com WEAR Vintage clothes lovers will find plenty to sate their yin for distinctive threads at any number of pre-loved and unique boutiques along the district’s narrow streets. Hot Dogs is renowned, in particular, for its box-fresh, vintage trainer stock and, with fans as diverse as Jarvis Cocker, its hip credentials are assured. facebook.com/hotdogshamburg BOP Looking to mingle and tipple ’til the early hours on the upper floors of a World War II anti-aircraft bunker? Who isn’t? Terrace Hill offers a unique experience, with a swish roster of curated entertainment. There’s also a cool bar and an even cooler outdoor terrace offering sweeping views over the Hamburg rooftops. terracehill.de CHAT The German institution of having kaffee und kuchen (coffee and cake) is a delightful way to reconnect with your loquacious side, or someone else’s. One place that accommodates the practice particularly well is Harbor Cake, a quirky café whose decor is matched only by the interesting punters who come to nibble, sip and chat. harbor-cake.de BROWSE Each Saturday morning join the throngs of pickers and sellers at Flohschanze flea market, where weekend magpies meet and gather to sift through mountains of antiques and not-quite-antiques in the open air. The atmosphere is typically one of laidback fun and it’s a rare day that something won’t catch your eye. hamburg.de EAT Towering, sloppy, oozing … Dulf’s Burger is home to some of the city’s most magnificent hamburgers. Cooked on an open flame and with serious attention and care given to sourcing, the burgers here are rightly lauded for being gloriously flavourful. Try Dulf’s Farmer Burger, on a brioche bun, cooked medium, for a mouthwatering flavour of what’s on offer. dulfig.com
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HOMEMADE
Bright, beautiful and Irish-crafted – our summer round-up of gorgeous gifts and quirky keepsakes.
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1. ROCK OUT
Sink into this restful Rosaline Rocking Chair from Bunny and Clyde. Perfectly balanced and made from 100 per cent natural fabric, it offers parents the ultimate in comfort during feeding and snuggle times. From €2,350 at bunnyandclyde.ie.
2. TEE TIME
This homegrown, ocean-inspired tee is comprised of combed organic cotton and eco dyes – and for every one purchased, Grown will plant an indigenous, Irish tree and donate funds to 1% for the Planet. Womenswear also. €32 at grown.ie.
3. BELT UP
Traditionally worn by fishermen in the Aran Islands, this bright crios belt from Stable of Ireland looks particularly natty with Stable’s linen dresses. Handwoven by one of few remaining crios weavers. €75 at stableofireland.com.
4. JUG SHOT
A fresh take on a dairy classic, Irish Design Shop’s Caroline Dolan vessel is a perfect summer staple, doubling as a pretty flower vase and water holder. A soft lemon hue adds a tasteful, seasonal accent. €81 at irishdesignshop.com.
5. MEX APPEAL
Have we reached “Peak Frida” yet? Unlikely. Guadalupe Creations’ Frida Kahlo Doll is borne from free-motion embroidery and South American folk fabric, her unique style true to the artist’s form. €65 at guadalupecreations. com.
6. ENERGY HIT Start the day afresh with a few drops of Flora + Fiona’s AM Shower Reviving Shower Oil. Zingy, natural and organic essential oils help open the lungs and focus the mind so that you can start the day feeling full of vim. €28 at floraplusfiona.com.
LUXURIOUS LIVING NESTLED IN THE FOREST Center Parcs Ireland is opening this summer in the beautiful surroundings of Longford Forest. We’ve more than 100 indoor and outdoor activities, an amazing spa and Ireland’s largest indoor water park. All set within 400 acres of enchanting woodland. There’s something for all the family, all year round, whatever the weather. Nestled in the forest, you’ll find our luxurious lodges and apartments, which make the perfect home from home. Relax after a day’s adventures in front of a wood-burning fire, catch up on some reading or even cook up a storm in our fully fitted kitchens. We call it the great indoors. And we’re sure you will too. To find out more and book, visit centerparcs.ie
Epic Family Time
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LITERARY PARIS: A PHOTOGRAPHIC TOUR by Nichole Robertson (Chronicle, £14) In Paris, bookshops are open until midnight, rare book specialists make big bucks on autographed first editions, street markets are a bibliophile’s dream and the more vintage your copy of Colette the better. New York writer and photographer Nichole Robertson reclaims the “City of Lights” as the city of enlightenment and intellectual illumination, turning her lens on shops, stalls, libraries, cafés, markets and literary landmarks, accompanied by quotes from the greats and a timeline of Paris’ cultural highlights.
SHELF LIFE
E S S AYS
F E S T I VA L S
WRITING HOME by Polly Devlin (Pimpernel Press) Whisked from Ardboe in Co Tyrone to Vogue, by way of an essay competition, Devlin interviewed key players of the Swinging Sixties – Yves Saint Laurent, Bob Dylan, John and Yoko, Barbra Streisand – without ever losing her feeling for wildlife. Witty, poignant essays that move from Peggy Guggenheim to oaks, larks and blackthorns.
This month is rich with literary happenings across Ireland and the UK. Start with the Belfast Book Festival (June 7-16; belfastbookfestival.com) to hear Roddy Doyle in conversation with Glenn Patterson, then on to the brilliant Immrama Lismore Festival of Travel Writing (June 12-16; lismore-immrama.com) in Lismore, Co Waterford, or Co Dublin’s Dalkey Book Festival (June 13-16; dalkeybookfestival.org), which culminates on Bloomsday (June 16; bloomsdayfestival.ie). Then over to Cambridge for the Wimpole History Festival (June 20-23; wimpolehistoryfestival.com), where you can hear Antony Beevor, Lucy Worsley and Michael Morpurgo in the historic estate, before catching the end of Hebden Bridge Arts Festival (June 21-30; hebdenbridgeartsfestival.co.uk) in West Yorkshire’s Calder Valley.
FICTION
SHADOWPLAY by Joseph O’Connor (Harvill Secker) London in the 1870s: Oscar Wilde enchants the drawing rooms, Jack the Ripper terrifies the streets and, in the creaking, haunted Lyceum Theatre, the great actor-manager Henry Irving bullies his business manager, Bram Stoker, and both fall in love with the lead actress Ellen Terry ... all of which feeds into the masterpiece of Gothic fiction, Dracula.
T R AV E L
ELSEWHERE: ONE WOMAN, ONE RUCKSACK, ONE LIFETIME OF TRAVEL by Rosita Boland (Doubleday) From Australia in 1988 to Bali in 2016, via Japan, Antarctica, Peru etc, the Irish Times journalist has never taken photos (and never felt homesick) but she did keep diaries, which she draws on here to follow threads and share insights from a lifetime of “being elsewhere”.
EVENT GET WRITING IN A FUN AND RELAXED ATMOSPHERE AT THE UL/FRANK MCCOURT CREATIVE WRITING SUMMER SCHOOL NEW YORK WITH BESTSELLING AUTHORS JOSEPH O’CONNOR, DONAL RYAN AND SARAH MOORE FITZGERALD, POET MARTIN DYAR, UL PROFESSOR EOIN DEVEREUX, MEMOIRIST KERRY NEVILLE AND MORE. JUNE 27-30 AT GLUCKSMAN IRELAND HOUSE, NYU. FRANKMCCOURT.ULFOUNDATION.COM
MAIN IMAGE © NICHOLE ROBERTSON; BLOOMSDAY ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA MACAREE
Bridget Hourican takes a literary tour of Paris and highlights new reads and events for the bookish.
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How would you summarise the Venice Biennale? Full-on art. There is so much to see; the whole city is full of exhibitions often in the most unlikely places, so as well as seeing shows, you get to visit all these different locations across Venice. One of the nicest things is that it’s a chance to meet up with colleagues from Australia and New Zealand that I otherwise might not see for ages.
MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Dublin-born, London-based sculptor Eva Rothschild is representing Ireland at the 58th La Biennale di Venezia, aka the international arts biennial, which runs until November 24. Her work, The Shrinking Universe, will be seen at the Irish Pavilion in the Arsenale, adding to her vast CV that includes Three exhibiting in cities as far and wide as Dallas fantasy travel companions? Germaine and Sydney. irelandatvenice2019.ie
Where in London inspires you the most? I love the Barbican and the South Bank. They are so boldly modern and such monuments to an optimistic idea of city life with culture at its core.
Where in the world has surprised you the most? India. I travelled there for work in 2001 and was completely bowled over by the experience. I loved being somewhere with such a different culture and pace. I loved the fact that I didn’t have my familiar reference points, and the level of attention that forced me to pay to everything seemed to slow time down. I haven’t been back for many years but hope to return soon.
Which is your favourite art city? I love travelling for my work but when it comes down to it, London is my favourite. That’s the city where my studio is, so it’s the place I can actually make work. As a sculptor you are not particularly mobile in your practice; it’s hard to just set up shop somewhere else. London is also such an amazing centre for art, with major museums, commercial galleries and countless public and artist-led events. The only downside is the cost of studio space.
SCULPTURE: EVA ROTHSCHILD, FURNITURE, 2019/COPYRIGHT THE ARTIST LONDON IMAGE BY KERRY TONGUE
Downtime aspirations in Venice? I will mainly be working, but I’d like to spend some time on the water, swim at the Lido and hang out in Cannaregio, with its great bars and street life.
Greer, Alastair Campbell and curator of the Irish Pavilion, Mary Cremin. It might get a bit argumentative but there’d never be a dull moment.
MERRION ROW, DUBLIN 2 ( just one minute walk from St Stephen’s Green)
Join us in Dublin’s legendary authentic Irish Bar and Restaurant to experience the best in Traditional Irish Music, Food and Drink. Visit us in the heart of Dublin City beside St Stephen’s Green.
James Napper Tandy was a famous Irish revolutionary leader, who fought against the British with the French Army in the 1798 rebellion. www.nappertandys.ie Ph: 01 677 1222 | E: bookings@nappertandys.ie
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WEEKENDER
LIVING LARGE
Lucy White joins the A-list at the InterContinental Dublin’s James Joyce Suite.
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n June 16, 1904, James Joyce had a rendezvous with Nora Barnacle in his flat at 60 Shelbourne Road, Ballsbridge. So meaningful was this meeting that Joyce set the entire, fictional events of Ulysses on the same date, with Nora becoming his wife. Renowned for being the world’s best-known book that relatively few people have finished reading, Ulysses nonetheless provides inspiration for the largest of three Presidential Suites at the InterContinental – as do his less discombobulating works Dubliners and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man. In fact, in the dining room of the James Joyce Suite hangs a beautiful, lively portrait of the writer as an old man by Tom Byrne; instantly recognisable, all spectacles and Panama hat. Decor wise, think several shades of nutty-gizzard brown punctuated by vases of glorious fresh blooms and also silken wall panels that insulate the many rooms
from the drone of D4 traffic and fellow guests, kerfuffling with key cards. In fact, so soundproofed is this cocoon, and so vast – being Dublin’s largest suite at 250 sqm – it’s little wonder that so many rock stars and dignitaries stay here. Whether it’s the Rolling Stones checking their adrenaline after a gig at the adjacent RDS or a diplomat crafting a seminal speech, the setting is palpably serene. One large entrance leads to the main living space, beyond which is an elegant bedroom and a dining room, where the aforementioned Joyce portrait looks on. Off the latter is a kitchenette – with its own entrance for support staff, naturally – and off the handsome marble bathroom is a dressing room and walk-in wardrobe that also has a private entrance: perfect for personal stylists dropping off trunks of designer clothing. Our measly two outfits hung forlornly in the large space … but we were soon cheered by our own bar, on-ice Perrier-Jouët and a procession of delectable canapés, including a spritely
ice-cream-cone crab and lemon gel salad. Many hotels boast about having a spa when they really only have a clutch of treatment rooms and an enclave in which to sip herbal teas while tolerating a soundtrack of maudlin, bargain-bin Richard Clayderman. Not so at the InterContinental. Here is a light and bright swimming pool that’s big enough to actually swim in, plus a sauna and steam room in each male and female changing area (so don’t expect to sweat it out with your other half beside the pool; they are segregated). What would Mr Joyce have made of this suite, after such modest lodgings at No. 60? One suspects he might have plumped for the Lobster Benedict at breakfast, instead of Leopold Bloom’s “thick giblet soup, nutty gizzards, a stuffed roast heart, liver slices fried with crustcrumbs, fried hencod’s roes” ... The James Joyce Suite costs from €5k per night. (Simmonscourt Rd, Ballsbridge, 01 665 4000; intercontinentaldublin.ie)
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LOAH’S ARC Singer-actor Sallay Garnett, aka Loah, on how she swapped a safe pharmacy career for the hazards of creative fulfilment and embraced her Irish-Sierra Leone heritage. WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS
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“You have all the trappings of being a functioning s career changes go, transferring from adult, yet it just felt wrong – like a relationship that pharmacy to songwriting makes sense – isn’t working. It’s no one’s fault – it’s not you, it’s me. both professions need chemistry and a At Trinity, I knew loads of people that were musicians; desire to help people feel better to make they were getting on with that and I’d be longing them work successfully. Just ask Sallay to be in a room or a studio with them. The college Garnett, the Irish-Sierra Leone singer and actor who discarded one for the other and survived to tell the tale. music scene was vibrant. I was involved in virtually every single thing there that connected with music Graduating from Trinity College Dublin in 2010, – orchestra, jazz society, musicians that went on to when she was 23, having immersed herself as much form bands such as Wyvern Lingo, Little Green Cars, in studies as in the music options TCD offered, she people such as Hozier – so the area felt right for me. started work as a pharmacist. It’s a vocational job, she Ultimately, I knew what I needed to do because after offers, indicative of accomplishment, of being viewed I left Trinity the pointer on the scale went to zero.” as useful to society at large. A person could, Garnett Garnett and Cara are chatting in a deli just off continues, plan on the basis of such a good job – Dublin’s O’Connell Street, but eyes around us are “a house, a family, all of the things that adults do”. looking in only one direction. From Crumlin via West Plans, however, don’t come to much if a job is like Africa, Garnett’s striking presence is an effortless trying to put on a shoe that doesn’t fit. What wasn’t blend of manner, style and composure. Naturally working for her?
COVER: HEAD WRAP, THAIS MUNIZ; EARRINGS, €13, AT H&M. CONTENTS PAGE: HEAD WRAP, AS BEFORE; BLACK TOP, €55, YELLOW TROUSERS, €60, BOTH AT RIVER ISLAND; NECKLACE, €25, BRACELET, €25, BOTH AT & OTHER STORIES; RINGS €29 AT & OTHER STORIES, AND €10 AT RIVER ISLAND. OPENING SPREAD: WHITE SHIRT, €510, REJINA PYO, AT BROWN THOMAS; STRIPED SKIRT, PHILIP LIM, €500 AT BROWN THOMAS; WHITE EARRINGS, €35 AT MANGO; RINGS, AS BEFORE. THIS PAGE: EARRINGS, AS BEFORE; WHITE SHIRT, AS BEFORE. NEXT PAGE: HEADWRAP, AS BEFORE.
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witty, a genuine thinker, a balanced scholar and artist, she talks of her father growing up “humble and poor in rural Sierra Leone” and her mother’s “working-class background” in the suburbs of Dublin. “My dad won a scholarship and my mum worked all the way through college. There was a sense that what they did, they did in order for me to have a better life. I did, of course, but it got to the point where if I was allowed to choose, could I choose something else?” That initial sense of self-reproach linked with a fundamentally responsible person who exchanged professional work for the occupational hazards of creative fulfilment. Inevitably, there were tears before and after bedtime. When the sobbing subsided, and with a bunch of dollars in her pockets, Garnett left Dublin for New York. Cue a life change. Blending a longstanding interest in yoga with her newfound artistic (that is, temporarily unemployed) freedom, it was while Garnett was visiting an ashram in Upstate New York that she met several similarly minded city folk. While her time at the Catskills-based yogic community balanced her system, NYC itself ignited her intellect and instincts. Renting a loft apartment in Brooklyn, she immersed herself in what was on offer. She made friends. She found herself. She found her tribe. “Yes, they called themselves ‘creatives’,” she says with a grin, “because everyone does a bit of everything. They’re hustling their butts off but they’re making it
“I’m definitely Irish yet I didn’t grow up in black culture. Spending time in NYC made me more culturally sensitive to the African-American struggle in a way that I hadn’t before” work.” In truth, what NYC offered that she felt Dublin didn’t was (and here she smiles again) “the gung-ho American attitude. At the genesis of a piece of work, that assertiveness can be very exciting to be around. You have to frame what you want to do in a big way and with a bit of pizzazz.” Alongside the eye-opening dynamism of the creative mindset was, she remarks, the cultural encounter of “being submerged in African-American society. I’m black but not African-American. I’m definitely Irish, yet I didn’t grow up in black culture, rather a suburban Irish culture. There are important distinctions: I have a different way of seeing things and of being black in a modern way. Spending time in NYC made me more culturally sensitive to the African-American struggle in a way that I hadn’t been before. I felt it was something worth exploring more on a personal level, which has subsequently influenced my work as a result. It also made me re-enter a dialogue with my heritage.” Such internal discourse has resulted in more frequent visits to Sierra Leone, which is now more
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INTERVIEW
MOVIES “Cold War by Pawel Pawlikowski is exceptional. Every aspect of the film was lovingly constructed, with great cinematography and performances. Moonlight by Barry Jenkins floored me, the colours and the movement from dreamlike, slow-moving sequences to rapid fire, violent patches. In terms of classic movies, Some Like it Hot gets me every time. Marilyn Monroe is so brilliantly funny and whimsical.”
accessible for international visitors. “As you get older, you sense you’d like to form a longer relationship with a place that is also your home in the same way that Ireland is.” So, has she settled in some ways with the twin and (sometimes) complex topics of identity and heritage? Are they less fraught these days? Garnett’s reply is part rhetorical, part wish: “I wonder do they ever stop?” Fully aware that “there are issues about these subjects”, she looks forward “to the day when we don’t have to be anything other than casual about them.” On her return to Dublin from New York in 2013, Garnett knew that music and the creative arts could only be her new profession. By the first half of 2014, she headlined her first show – not as Sallay Garnett but as Loah (the stage name loosely taken from Isabelle Allende’s novel, Island Beneath the Sea). The gig was, she recalls, a clear statement of intent. “When I look back from a distance of five years, I remember it as a special performance and a great way to start things. I was really present and I cared about how I performed. The problem with it – and it is somewhat still a problem – is that of coherence of sound. That’s something I continue to work on, an on-going challenge.” Garnett is understandably concerned. While her early music was infused with soul/ funk grit that had feet tapping and heads moving within seconds, her more recent
material veers towards timeless pop with a dance edge. She classifies her newer tunes (on which she has collaborated with Irish electronic musician Bantum, aka Ruairi Lynch) as “sad bangers” – shorthand for pop/dance music laced with lyric/sonic melancholy. Her new music, she affirms, is less a speculative exercise and all about being more direct. “I can’t veil my meanings in abstract words any more. For whose sake? And what am I trying to hold onto, anyway? The pretence is gone and trying to be seen to be clever is over. I just want to get to the point in as little time as possible.” Speaking of time, too much of it has passed, and we are being politely shooed out of the deli. What’s next, then? An album of new songs (with Bantum) is scheduled for release by the end of the year. Long before that, however, in July and August, Garnett will veer Heavenwards over London when she takes on the role of Mary Magdalene in The Barbican stage production of Jesus Christ Superstar. Singing? Acting? Musical theatre? Sad bangers? With harmonies in her head and bright lights in her eyes, success for Sallay Garnett is surely written in the stars. It’s academic, innit? Loah & Bantum’s new song, April Brave, is on release. Jesus Christ Superstar runs at The Barbican, London, from July 4 until August 24. barbican.org.uk
MUSIC “I’m a big Moses Sumney fan; I feel he has the sound and career I want, he’s so fabulous. His voice is virtuosic and effortless, and his songwriting is poignant, elegant, detached and vulnerable all at once. I’m also loving tunes that have you dancing all night but crying while you do. The English singer-songwriter NAO is one of my current favourites – her song Drive and Disconnect grooves so hard but is really soft lyrically.” BOOKS “I have recently read If Beale Street Could Talk and Giovanni’s Room, both by James Baldwin. His ferocious intensity of observation, high drama and intellect is addictive. Because of my forthcoming role of Mary Magdalene, I’ll be reading lots about Gnostics and Gospels.” TV “I loved Atlanta by Donald Glover and Insecure by Issa Rae. As for the final season of Game of Thrones, with its Shakespearean levels of drama meets Medieval politics meets fantasy fiction ... Is there anything better?”
STYLED BY MELISA BOYALIKLI, WITH THANKS TO THAIS MUNIZ, MAKEUP BY OKSANA LOBANOVA. LOCATION PROVIDED BY MS DESIREE SHORTT, MAHAFFY HOUSE, NORTH GREAT GEORGE’S STREET, DUBLIN 1, 01 872 2285.
THE LIKES OF LOAH
Jewellery . Giftware . Dining www.newbridgesilverware.com
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THE
FESTIVE SEASON Ireland is now spoilt for choice when it comes to summer festivals, with an event to suit every whim and whimsy. Camping got glam, behemoths got boutique, limp burgers are out and experiential programming is in. Here we meet some of the chief organisers. WORDS DEREK O’CONNOR PHOTOGRAPHS LEO BYRNE
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or many years, Ireland’s music and arts festival landscape was dominated by a handful of major promoters, with little by way of choice when it came to the overnight entertainment on offer – as rites of passage went, it was often one to be endured. The event that broke the mould was Electric Picnic (August 30 until September 1; electricpicnic.ie), founded by the late John Reynolds, ushering in a new wave of boutique happenings offering so much more than a bunch of bands playing in a field. Now, it’s all about “The Experience.” Chief among them is Body & Soul (June 21-23; bodyandsoul.ie), which has spun its Electric Picnic presence into a massively popular standalone event at Co Westmeath’s Ballinlough Castle
WILL ROLFE
ALL TOGETHER NOW
A new arrival on the festival scene, All Together Now made a serious splash upon arrival in 2018. “From our opening chapter last year,” says director Will Rolfe, “we saw an audience that was passionate about music, art, spoken word. It felt like a real community of like-minded people.” The location doesn’t hurt either: Curraghmore in Co Waterford, is Ireland’s largest private estate, offering some 3,000 acres of
estate. “Body & Soul is intentionally built on four key pillars”, says founder Avril Stanley, who this year celebrates its tenth birthday: “innovation, incubation, inclusivity and sustainability – not because we wanted to tick boxes but because these areas genuinely inspired us.” That inspiration can be felt in a whole new wave of eclectic festival events across Ireland, from the hinterlands of West Cork to the wilds of Donegal, each one programmed with love, imagination and passion. “Festivals in essence represent the people, the art, the lore, the music, the politics, the social agendas of a particular time and place,” says Stanley. “That gives us an amazing tapestry to fill with exceptional talent and experiences for people to behold and participate in.”
natural beauty. Add to that a 2019 bill that deftly weaves musical stalwarts like Patti Smith, The National and Damon Albarn’s The Good, The Bad & The Queen, with hot Irish prospects The Murder Capital, Pillow Queens and Fontaines D.C., and you’ve got one of the summer’s hottest tickets. “People travel from all around the country and all around the world,” says Will. “What we hope is that people are true music fans and open-minded to new experiences.” The festival was the brainchild of John Reynolds, who tragically passed away
last October – the family vibe that he brought to Electric Picnic can be felt in the care and attention that the All Together Now crew brings to the party. “It’s somewhat unique what we do, creating and curating festivals for thousands of people,” says Will, “but it’s important not to forget that I’m just a part of a wider team working to put on the festival, the amazing performers who take to our stages and the attendees who join us for the weekend.” (August 2-4, Curraghmore Estate, Co Waterford; alltogethernow.ie)
PEOPLE
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SUZIE SHORTEN
SEA SESSIONS
Located in the north-west, Co Donegal is as much a state of mind as a geographical location, and Bundoran’s magnificent beaches – a popular destination for the global surfing community – serve as a perfect setting for a wild weekend on the Wild Atlantic Way. And the Sea Sessions crew definitely know how to throw a party. “The site has a magical feel,” says production manager Suzie Shorten, “if you’re lucky enough to catch the sun setting over the Atlantic, it is truly a stunning scene.” Sea Sessions is the kind of vibe where you can catch some waves and some cool bands – this year’s bill includes Norwegian hitmaker Sigrid, electro-pop favourites Clean Bandit and rap legends Melle Mel and The Sugarhill Gang, with veteran rocker Jerry Fish acting as MC. It’s definitely a unique experience, located smack in the heart of an old-school seaside town. If you fancy a breather, you can always avail of the nearby funfair and amusement arcades, not to mention the seaweed baths up the road. And their dream line-up? “Daft Punk kicking off the party on Friday,” says Shorten, “maybe Radiohead on the Saturday, and how about Kate Bush bringing us home on the Sunday?” You never know – anything is possible in Donegal. (June 21-23, Bundoran, Co Donegal; seasessions.com)
Biffy Clyro and Gavin James to Mitchelstown, but it’s the I N D I EP EN D EN C E homegrown acts further down the bill who are the real ones In a little over a decade, to watch. “We’ve really focused Indiependence has gone from on developing new Irish a free event taking place on a talent,” says Dunne. “The likes single stage on the outskirts of The Coronas, Walking on of Mitchelstown, Co Cork, to Cars, Kodaline and Hozier all a rip-roaring, 15,000-capacity, played here really early in their multi-stage weekender that has careers and have come back played host to Primal Scream, since.” The “Indie” pack have a Public Enemy and Manic Street good time, all the time, he says, Preachers. “Festivals are about whatever the forecast: “Irish leaving the outside world at festival-goers are the best; they the gate and diving in with your are used to inclement weather friends and the music you love – everything from sun to rain to for a few days,” says co-founder a plague of locusts is possible, Shane Dunne, “and the Indie and likely – everyone comes audience is great at this.” prepared for it and just gets The 2019 instalment brings on with having a blast.” (August heavyweights such as Bastille, 2-4, Mitchelstown, Co Cork; Catfish and the Bottlemen, indiependencefestival.com)
SHANE DUNNE
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The award winning Café Carleton features freshly prepared local food with vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or a sumptuous afternoon tea in a relaxed, stylish and friendly ambience. Live piano music Monday to Friday mornings.
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TOUR
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PEOPLE
HUGO JELLETT
B O R R I S FE ST IVA L O F WRITING AND IDEAS
BETTINE McMAHON K N O C K A N STO C K A N
Located on the shores of the Blessington Lakes in Co Wicklow, the annual KnockanStockan shindig is all about the music, and lots of it, offering a platform for a dazzling array of acts, spanning every imaginable musical genre. This year alone you’ll find Dublin hip-hop duo Mango X MathMan, nu-trad heroes Ye Vagabonds and veteran acoustic warriors The Pale, alongside dozens of probable contenders for the position of Your New Favourite Band. “We carefully listen and curate mostly Irish artists,” says festival director Bettine McMahon, “and don’t worry about who sells tickets or is popular – we simply pick the act based on the quality of the music. This leads the audience on a voyage of discovery.” That audience tends to be young, enthusiastic and up for it – McMahon describes the average KnockanStockan attendee with a single word: “sound”. Ticket prices are at the budget-friendly end of the scale (early bird weekend tickets cost €100) and there’s little by way of hierarchy betwixt performer and audience, making for a decidedly relaxed atmosphere. It’s a scene and a rather joyful one at that. For the 2019 edition, McMahon says punters can expect “a huge amount of new music, new handcrafted stages, quirky small venues and new friends.” (July 19-21, Blessington, Co Wicklow; knockanstockan.ie)
“Perhaps festivals tend to try to be efficient with the time they ask of their artists,” says Hugo Jellett, co-founder of the Borris Festival of Writing and Ideas. “We try to be inefficient and do our best to keep them with us a little longer.” In a land chock-full with literary events, the Borris bash has swiftly established itself as the coolest kid on the block, offering an eclectic programme that intertwines the cream of the writing crop with a little rock ‘n’ roll magic. Guests in recent years have ranged from Margaret Atwood, Michael Chabon, Donna Tartt and Cillian Murphy to PJ Harvey, Led Zeppelin’s John Paul Jones, Pink Floyd’s Dave Gilmour and Florence Welch. It helps that co-founders Jellett and Vivienne Guinness have a splendid address book and a venue to die for – Borris House, the former seat of the High Kings of Leinster, situated at the foot of the Blackstairs Mountains in Co Carlow. Jellett describes his event as a “weekend party for a thousand people who like writing, where the speakers drift easily among those who have come to hear them, and they in turn allow the speakers into their lives”. This year’s instalment features legends such as Carl Bernstein, Martin Amis and Fiona Shaw alongside other hot tickets Emilie Pine, Sinéad Gleeson and Dolly Alderton. (June 7-9, Borris House, Co Wicklow; festivalofwritingandideas.com)
PEOPLE
EMMET CONDON
A N OT H ER LOV E STO RY A conversation on a car journey six years ago, between artistic director Emmet Condon and Peter O’Brien, the brilliant mind behind the popular Happenings events in Dublin, sowed the seeds of Another Love Story. “We basically lamented the general proliferation of the mass-market, large-scale festival experience in Ireland at the time,” says Condon, “and felt there was a need and a gap for something more heartfelt and personal, especially amongst our group of friends who were getting somewhat jaded of the experience.” Thus, they created the kind of intimate event they wanted to attend themselves, a relatively modest (1,000 capacity)
affair at Killyon Manor, an 18th-century domicile in the Co Meath countryside, boasting a stunning, wooden-floored ballroom that serves as one of the main performance spaces. The bill offers a lovingly curated mix of musicians, artists, talkers and doers, often resulting in something special indeed. For Condon, Another Love Story is about “the exact moment when I know we have gotten something right – people are moved by incredible artistry, being together with their friends in a beautiful place and surrounded by the goodwill and warmth that abounds at ALS – it’s a mix of all that is great in the world and it proves that people feel the love that is put into creating that moment. That’s the most important thing for us.” (August 16-18, Killyon Manor, Co Meath; anotherlovestory.ie)
CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE DEAN HOTEL, FUMBALLY CAFÉ, NATIONAL GALLERY, NIALL MULLEN ANTIQUES, THE WESTBURY, DUBLIN, AND HADDINGTON HOUSE, DÚN LAOGHAIRE.
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CORK ACCENTS
To coincide with its Midsummer Festival, get familiar with the latest wave of Cork City pit stops and must-dos, reaffirming the reputation of the “Rebel County” as a multi-layered and vibrant destination. WORDS JO LINEHAN PHOTOGRAPHS FIONN McCANN
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or many who finally visit the steeple-strewn city of Cork, their first reaction is how small she is. It’s true that, considering the number of restaurants, musical hubs and cultural touchstones that emerge from here, the main thoroughfare is humble in length. Ah, but haven’t you heard that what is small is often mighty? Cork City puts every inch of itself to good use. Each visit surprises with a new festival being born, a new space or place being heralded. It means that a visit to the city, at any time, is filled with surprise, joy and good hospitality. That inimitable Cork thing, which means that everyone knows someone and everybody is somebody, gets right into your veins and makes you feel at home, almost immediately. As the Cork Midsummer Festival (June 13-23; corkmidsummer.com) rears its head again, the city is ripe for day and weekend trippers, ready to reconnect
CORK CITY
Each visit surprises with a new festival being born, a new space or place being heralded with The Real Capital. Coffee in Cork is a divisive topic, with a selection of local roasters available to pledge allegiance to, but Café Velo (cafevelo. ie) on George’s Quay is the current caffeine-seeker’s preference. They’ve kept decor minimal and let the bicyclethemed coffee varieties do all the talking. Complemented by a small but perfect menu of brunch and bite-size classics, all made from locally sourced produce, a flat white enjoyed while overlooking the gentle bend in the River Lee, with the hum of conversation – sung in that infamous twang – is the perfect way to start a Rebel-County-worthy itinerary. As shopping destinations go, Cork has fought hard to maintain its independent
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shops and sellers, and the ones that stand today are world-renowned. Samui (samuifashions.com) is a small and expertly curated fashion and lifestyle boutique where owner Clodagh Shorten’s keen eye and costumes have been helping to dress ladies with a weakness for Rick Owens, Marni and Dries Van Noten for nearly 30 years. If the budget doesn’t quite stretch to demi-couture, her selection of Fornasetti candles and Aesop skin and body essentials will satisfy your retail yearnings. Washington Street’s Primetime (prime-time.ie) was initially opened to clothe perpetrators of the budding Cork hip-hop and rave scene in the 1990s and today has evolved with Cork’s youth culture, remaining one of the city’s largest and most popular independent retailers. A visit here guarantees an excellent underground rap soundtrack and a browse in the company of art students, musicians and surfers. Speaking of the musically minded, Pro Musica (promusica.ie) is
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worth a browse for a charming brass and percussion collection, music manuscripts and assorted paraphernalia. The experts here will bend your ear, if you let them, and there’s always a melancholy tune being strummed by a singer-songwriter sort, in the guitar section on the top floor. Once night falls, it’s time to head toward the hills of St Luke’s, a steep and picturesque northside borough that’s home to a handful of pubs and shops. The neighbourhood is enjoying a new era of popularity due to a reimagining of the local eponymous church, which has become the go-to for gigs in the county (liveatstlukes.com). Serving listeners a variety of excellent local and visiting acts, in-the-know concert-goers stock up on Franciscan Well beers in the shop next door before hunkering down in the wooden pews at the BYOB events. The eerie acoustics and candlelight make for magical musical moments. For something a little livelier, The Roundy (theroundy.com)
Opening pages, left, dining at River Lee hotel; opposite, Clara Schneider enjoying a tipple at The Roundy. Previous page, fragrant and floral on the terrace at River Lee hotel and fashion maven Clodagh Shorten at Samui. Above, Jimmy Horgan having a laugh at Plugd Records. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The Pier Head at Blackrock Village Plaza; revolutionary art on Washington Street; superior blends at Café Velo; Caroline McNamee sporting top threads from Prime Time; buffalo gals at Toons Bridge Dairy; gladrags on the rails at Samui; the spire of musical St Luke’s; finely-fettled dishes at River Lee hotel; Jim Cashman’s pub as spied from Academy Street.
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on a series of waterways, is as remarkable as the characters you’ll meet along this walking tour. Don’t be put off by the idea of a day trip away from the centre. A mere 45 minutes west of the city you’ll find Toons Bridge Dairy (toonsbridgedairy.com), home to a field full of cheese-making buffalo and buffalo babies, a pizzeria and farm shop. Savour one of their wood-fired Caputo flour-based creations, decorated in local vegetables and cured meats, before stocking up on Kalamata olives, aged balsamic vinegar and cheeses for the road home. Closer to the centre still is the suburb of Blackrock, a former fishing village that has returned to glory thanks to a series of local regeneration projects. Shadowed by Dundanion, a ruined 16th-century castle, the marina below is lively with rowers making their way to and from Cork Boat Club parallel with shore-side dog walkers. If you can be tempted by either – a row or a stroll – be sure to deck yourself out at Cork’s thriving athleisurewear company, Queen B (queenbathletics.com), founded by local rowers Aedín Corbyn and Bríd Ryan. The duo’s active-enabling apparel is the uniform of gym-goers here. As for refuelling, Basil (basil.ie) is a market, deli and foodie destination serving hungry locals with freshly made sandwiches, salads and desserts made from scratch
A mere 45 minutes west of the city you’ll find Toons Bridge Dairy, home to a field full of cheese-making buffalo and buffalo babies, a pizzeria and farm shop and Plugd Records (plugdrecords. com) each hosts weekly house, disco and electro nights, which have garnered quite a following. DJs Gil Steele and Paul O’Driscoll draw record purists, spinning old-school tracks until late. For a spine-tingling, nighttime experience of a different kind, the Cork Ghost Tour (corkghosttour.ie) is a fascinating, if not gruesome, insight into the city’s murky past. Told through stories and stop-offs, the history of the city, built
using the best ingredients available, and Salt (saltcork.ie) is a wine bar with a reputation for the best brunch that side of the city. Returning to the city time and time again never fails to disappoint. It changes and evolves as much as the river on which it was built ebbs and flows. The one thing that remains unchanged is its charm and, as any true Corkonian will tell you, you just won’t get better than the People’s Republic.
In Ireland
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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS EAT HIGH END Chef Takashi Miyazaki brings the first kappou-style, kaiseki experience to Ireland in the form of Ichigo Ichie, a small-but-perfect restaurant. A multicourse menu is prepared in front of diners, showcasing the best of the Japanese equivalent of haute cuisine. Expect extraordinary dishes that are edging ever closer to receiving Michelin star status. (5 Fenn’s Quay, Sheares Street, 021 427 9997; ichigoichie.ie) WHOLESOME A Cork institution that never fails to delight and satisfy. Market Lane’s offering ranges from the traditional (succulent Sunday roasts) to the specialised (vegan sticky miso), all of which share the highest quality ingredients presented by what may be the friendliest bunch of foodies in town. (5-6 Oliver Plunkett Street, 021 427 4710; marketlane.ie) HISTORIC A former pharmacy on Pembroke Street, now dubbed Arthur Mayne’s, has personality and charm in spades. The old floor-to-ceiling shelving units, which once displayed lotions and potions, are now heaving with whiskeys, gins and wines. A lunch or dinner here is a no-fuss affair of quality sandwiches and soups by day and an array of fresh tapas by night. Sitting here by candlelight in this half-renovated space is a strange and unusual delight. (7 Pembroke Street, 021 427 9449; corkheritagepubs.com)
thrilled with a stay in Hayfield Manor. Everything from the careful check-in process, which takes place while seated in the grand foyer, to the designated quiet times in the hotel, silver service at dinner and unbeatable concierge service are what make this five-star extra special. With its proximity to the hallowed grounds of UCC and Glucksman Gallery, a stay here is a true taste of Cork luxury. B&B from from €329. (Perrott Avenue, College Road, The Lough, 021 484 5900; hayfieldmanor.ie) BUZZY Recently acquired by The Doyle Collection, the four-star River Lee Hotel has been transformed into an interiorlover’s dream. The hotel’s epicurean hub on the ground floor is the apple of the hotel’s eye, where “cocktails with a Cork accent” are served in the New York-inspired bar; the Grill Room offers diners a sophisticated lunch and dinner setting in plush booths surrounded by giant abstract canvases, and the River Club’s Vinyl Brunch, held every Sunday, celebrates the very best brunch and disco classics, with its own DJ on duty. Rooms from €161. (Western Road, 021 425 2700; doylecollection.com)
SMART TIPS BREWS It wouldn’t be a trip to Cork without a beer tasting, what with the entire county swimming in locally made brews. Rising Sons brewery on Cornmarket Street in Cork’s Old Town is housed in the former Guy and Co printing factory, which at one time was responsible for printing all of Ireland’s cheque books. While the team here is perfecting a new pils – entitled the Bouncing Czech – in honour of its history, today you can tour the space and sample the Steeple Pale Ale and Mi Daza Cork Stout before tucking into a freshly prepared lunch in its Rising Sons restaurant. Tours from €12. risingsonsbrewery.com READS Friar Street is home to a slow book movement, thanks to the recently opened Badly Made Books, a print works, publishing house, riso print and gallery founded by Sean O’Sullivan. Colourful note- and sketchbooks sit beside local poetry collections, illustrations and prints, all of which are made with recycled paper, using analogue techniques, and sealed with love, of course. badlymadebooks.com
SLEEP BOUTIQUE Located in one of Cork’s most historically wealthy and revered neighbourhoods, The Montenotte Hotel has seen many iterations since its early 19th-century founding. Thankfully, it has been restored to its former glory and is now a boutique beauty of a hotel, which boasts its own cinema, spa and, most importantly, breathtaking views of the city from an elegant restaurant and terrace. B&B from €119. (Middle Glanmire Road, 021 453 0050; themontenottehotel.com) OLD WORLD Those who prefer a more traditional hospitality experience will be
Previous page, top, Josh Lee and Abigail Makovsky enjoying chats at Market Lane; below, roll out the barrels at Toons Bridge Dairy. Above, a freshly-fired pizza, also at Toons Bridge Dairy, a 45-minute romp from Cork’s city centre.
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PACIFIC LIBATIONS Lift a schooner to the innovative beverage scene of Seattle, Washington State and the greater Pacific Northwest. WORDS AOIFE CARRIGY PHOTOGRAPHS MARK DUGGAN
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“
’m an old-school punk rocker by nature,” says Jamie Brown of Waters Winery (trwines.com). He could be speaking for any number of new-breed winemakers whose urban wineries and tasting rooms are redefining the former industrial neighbourhood of SoDo, just four kilometres south of Downtown Seattle. Despite a similar latitude to Burgundy, this rain-soaked city of islands and inlets doesn’t enjoy a grape-friendly climate. Several hours south-east over
WASHINGTON STATE
the Cascade Range, however, a growing network of sun-soaked East Washington wine regions do. Brown makes wine in earthy Walla Walla but sells them at an airy tasting room at SoDo Urbanworks (sodo-urbanworks.com). At $30 or less, his lauded Bordeaux blends and singlevineyard Syrahs typify the excellent ratio of quality to value offered by Washington wines. A cluster of tasting rooms, working wineries, restaurants and a brewery
A cluster of tasting rooms, working wineries, restaurants and a brewery overlook SoDo Urbanworks’ neat parking lot, which hosts regular mariarchi-blasted block parties
overlook SoDo Urbanworks’ neat parking lot, which regularly hosts mariachiblasted block parties. At Kerloo Cellars (kerloocellars.com), winemaker Ryan Crane turns down the bass-heavy tunes to talk me through his Rhône-influenced Les Collines Syrah. Next door, Latta Wines (lattawines.com) produce small-lot expressions of Washington’s huge varietal range, just 2,500 cases annually. It’s very small scale compared to Jet City Winery (winesofsubstance.com) in nearby Georgetown, where rock-managerturned-wine-mogul Charles Smith has transformed a Dr Pepper factory into the West Coast’s largest urban winery. “He wanted the space to look like we make things,” says director of wine, Brennon Leighton. A spacious Pan-Am themed
When in Dublin why not let one of Ireland’s most prominent publican and owner of nine of Ireland’s finest pubs, Charlie Chawke, welcome you to Searsons pub on Baggot street, Dublin 4. Searsons which won Ireland’s National Bar of the year award in 2017 is an historic Dublin pub forever known as a meeting point for business networking and match days. Searsons has a dedicated whiskey bar boasting one of the largest collections of Whiskey in Ireland. Why not pay us a visit and sample some exclusive and rare Irish whiskeys from Charlie’s own extensive collection.
L-R: Liza, Charlie, Bill and Ali Chawke
Searsons is the only Bar in the world to have two full collections of Midleton Very Rare. The most significant addition to his collection is this specially selected Single Cask; The oldest single cask released to date, a 28 year old whiskey bonded on the 4th July 1990, matured in a first fill bourbon barrel, which was distilled in 1990 in the Midleton Distillery in Co. Cork. Available for purchase at the bar or online at Searsonsbar.ie for €3500 a bottle. Searsons Bar is a must see for anyone interested in Irish Whiskey. Searsons pays full homage to Midleton Irish Whiskey with this newest Single Cask, as it unveiled three Pot Stills, named after Charlie’s daughters, Liza, Ali and Jenny.
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WASHINGTON STATE
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tasting room looks out to Boeing’s original airfield and into the winery’s production area, where a team dispatch 35,000 cases. Another former “punk rock kid”, Brennon rose to head up white wine production at Woodinville’s Chateau Ste Michelle, Washington’s largest winery and the world’s largest Riesling producer. We taste some of the eclectic Wines of Substance portfolio that he now oversees before he wisely suggests a palate-cleansing ale at the local Star Brass Works Lounge (starbrassworkslounge.com). After California, Washington has more wineries and craft breweries than any other state in the country. It also boasts a growing number of cideries – hardly surprising, given it is the country’s leading apple producer. You’ll find a vast selection of Washington’s 70 cideries at Capitol Cider (capitolcider.com), two kilometres east of Seattle’s historic Pike Place Market. Over at Fremont, a quirky neighbourhood on the northern shore of Lake Union, 32 rotating taps and a wall of self-serve fridges make Schilling Cider House (schillingciderhouse.com) cider-browsing heaven. You can order a flight, take a class or meet visiting producers. Or you could rent a car, hop on a ferry west and go visit them on their own home turf ...
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If SoDo’s winemakers are punk-rockers by nature, the Olympic Peninsula’s cider route (opciderroute.com) producers are hippies at heart. We catch Crystie Kisler’s organic orchard and farm in Chimacum’s Finn River Cidery (finnriver.com) on an idyllic Sunday afternoon. Framed by Mt Olympus, families are playing cornhole in the late fall sunshine and sampling rotating ciders, which include European styles, single varietals and seasonal flavours such as local Sequim lavender. “We love the community she has created,” says one regular, Katherine Bark, over thincrust pizza topped with local kale, apple and squash. “It’s bringing together the camaraderie of beer parlours and of food communities.” It’s a glorious drive up a copperblazing coast to Bear and Nancy Bishop’s one-hectare paradise at Alpenfire (alpenfirecider.com), a “bug-kill pine” cabin and cider house set amongst organic heirloom orchards. They fell hard for hard cider as teens visiting British Columbia (Vancouver Island is a two-hour ferry ride from nearby Port Angeles); today their acclaimed range includes kayak-friendly bags of still Discovery Trail cider; barrelaged and bottle-conditioned Pirate’s Plank; and Cinders rosé champagne cider from rare, red-fleshed varieties.
Opening pages, clockwise from top left, grapes of froth at Januik Novelty Hill winery; it’s not just the Januik wines that offer a warm glow; sun-kissed orchards at Alpenfire cidery; the apple of each others’ eyes, Bob and Katherine Baril loving life at Finn River Cidery; previous page, Nancy and Bear Bishop assess the pick of the crop at Alpenfire Cidery; left, thirsty punters at Georgetown’s Jet City Winery, above, Eaglemount estate, which produces not only wine and cider but also cyser, a mead; above right, cask art at Kerloo Cellars.
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Just outside historic Port Townsend, soft-spoken Trudy Davis of Eaglemount (eaglemountwinery.com) talks us through her artisan cider, wine and mead. Davis’ tasting rooms and adjacent Craftsmanstyle inn are set on a property that has been a fruit farm, speakeasy, brothel, boarding house and vaudeville circus base camp – but it’s her cyser (honey and apple mead) that steals my heart. After an evening exploring Port Townsend’s charms and a heavenly sleep in Ravenscroft Inn (ravenscroftinn.com), with its views across the bay to Mount Rainier, we island-hop back towards Seattle, detouring north of the city to Woodinville (woodinvillewinecountry. com) in the leafy Sammamish River Valley. SoDo’s well-heeled sister, this Seattle-side hub has blossomed in two decades from a handful of wineries and tasting rooms to some 120 today, representing all 14 Washington wine appellations within its five-kilometre radius.
Davis’ tasting rooms and inn are set on a property that has been a brothel and vaudeville circus base camp but it’s her cyser – mead – that steals my heart
Clockwise from top, mid-century design at Waters Winery; purple haze – an Empress G&T at Heritage Restaurant; Dana Jackson, genial GM of Januik Novelty Hill. Overleaf, Finn River’s Crystie Kisler.
A visit here could be as simple as a half-hour Uber ride from Seattle for an afternoon of browsing tasting rooms, such as that of Mark Ryan Winery (markryanwinery.com). Or you could book into the luxurious riverside Willows Lodge & Spa (willowslodge.com) and spend a day or two exploring stylish wineries such as Januik Novelty Hill (noveltyhilljanuik.com). General manager Dana Jackson is a vivacious host for guided tastings, allowing celebrated winemaker Mike Januik to focus on key duties such as making breakfast daily for his hard-working team – a detail that speaks volumes about the disarming character of Washington State and its unique local drinks scene.
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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS EAT FARM-TO-FORK CHIC Seattle native Scott Rose met chef Deborah Taylor while working in Manhattan’s restaurant scene; the couple chose Port Townsend to set up Finistère, their clean-lined restaurant where Taylor coaxes fine flavours from locally sourced highlights of land and sea. (1025 Lawrence St, Port Townsend, +1 360 344 8127; restaurantfinistere.com) WHOLESOME Chef Breanna Beike knows how to maximise flavour while keeping things admirably unfussy, and her Heritage Restaurant Bar quickly became a Woodinville favourite for dishes such as Manila clams with kale, white beans and housemade Alsatian sausage, meatballs and polenta or farro risotto of spiced delicata squash. (14450 Redmond-Woodinville Rd, +1 425 419 4760; heritagewoodinville.com) FLIGHTS OF FANCY Whether you kick back in Woodinville or pitch up at its buzzy Seattle flagship, don’t miss the imaginative wine flights at Purple Café and Wine Bar, which contrast well-chosen Washington wines with their old wine equivalents. (1225 4th Ave, Seattle, +1 206 829 2280 & 14459 Redmond-Woodinville Rd NE, +1 425 483 7129; purplecafe.com)
SMART TIPS SLEEPING IN SEATTLE PAN-PURPOSE It’s hard to appeal to both business travellers and families. Pan Pacific Seattle lays on thoughtful extras such as Seattle-centric colouring books to prime little ones for short strolls to the Space Needle, Aquarium and Great Wheel, while execs appreciate the complimentary Wi-Fi and modern business centre. Rooms from $295. (2125 Terry Ave, +1 206 264 8111; panpacificseattle.com) SWISH With complimentary in-house wine tastings, hotel bikes for pedal-happy guests and Urban Wine Tasting maps of easily accessed city tasting rooms, Kimpton Hotel Vintage Seattle makes a superb Downtown base for wine lovers.
The in-house Tulio Ristorante brings northern Italian flair to Pacific Northwest flavours. Rooms from $244. (1100 Fifth Avenue, +1 206 624 8000; hotelvintageseattle.com) BELLTOWN BELLE With its indoor heated swimming pool, in-house Margaux Brasserie serving from breakfast until cocktail o’clock and many Seattle attractions within easy walking distance, Belltown’s Warwick Seattle gives visitors lots of reasons to stay local – while a monorail station two blocks away broadens horizons. Rooms from $199. (401 Lenora St, +1 206 443 4300; warwickhotels.com)
SHORT ON TIME? Make a beeline to Pike Place Market (pikeplacemarket.org) where local drinks producers sample and sell their wares; catch an informal Friday afternoon tasting at Pike and Western Wine Shop (pikeandwestern.com) or hit happy hour at RN74 restaurant (michaelmina.net), where double-jobbing sommelier-winemaker Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen of WT Vintners curates an extraordinary cellar.
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SEATTLE five times per week.
EXPERIENCE
AUTHENTIC IRISH HOSPITALIT Y Heavily inspired and influenced by Dublin’s rich literary culture and local heritage, Conrad Dublin features 192 beautifully refurbished guest rooms and suites. Join us on a voyage of discovery at Lemuel’s, relax and enjoy a tasty meal in Alfie Byrne’s by Galway Bay Brewery, or take a seat in the stylish surroundings of the Coburg and experience a true brasserie.
Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland | Phone +353-1-602 8900 | ConradDublin.com
CONRADDUBLIN.COM
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ADVERTORIAL
A NEW LEASE OF LIFE From broken china pieces to an eye-catching range of jewellery, Julie Swan’s creations are transformative.
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ublin based designer Julie Swan creates unique jewellery pieces from discarded vintage china and pottery. A twist of fate saw the start of the Forgotten China jewellery range in 2014 when a gust of wind at an outdoor market blew over Julie Swan’s vintage china cake
stands. Determined to create something beautiful from the broken fragments, she started experimenting by sanding down the pieces into different shapes and sizes. Today, these broken pieces have evolved into a full range of Forgotten China jewellery, including necklaces, earrings and cufflinks, which now sells to customers in over 40 countries worldwide. The unique jewellery pieces are created from china and pottery plates, cups and saucers which are sourced from charity shops and auction rooms around Ireland with a particular focus placed on sourcing Irish-made patterns. The jewellery is made by initially cutting the piece with a water jet cutter at a speed of 45,000 PSI, which allows the required pattern to be
cut out with precision. The piece is then filed down by hand, set into silver and finished with a couple of drops of resin. As a recent customer in Hawaii wrote after receiving his order; “The jewellery pieces were as beautiful as I had hoped, and looked exactly like the samples on your website. Your work is inventive, unique and absolutely beautiful”. Forgotten China also has a large customer base who avail of the “Commissions” service, where customers have the opportunity to send their own china to Julie and request bespoke jewellery pieces created from their vintage plates, cups or saucers. Additional details on this service can be found at forgottenchina.ie.
Forgotten China jewellery pieces are available to purchase from the weekly People’s Park market in Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin or from forgottenchina.ie/shop with shipping available worldwide.
TEN BEST SCULPTURE PARKS
JASON DECAIRES TAYLOR/MUSEO ATLÁNTICO LANZAROTE
Sunshine and art, together at last! Stretch your legs this summer with a cultural saunter, says Thomas Breathnach.
1 CANARY ISLANDS
MUSEO ATLÁNTICO LANZAROTE
The first sculpture park in Europe to dive into the deep, Museo Atlántico is an underwater expo of 300 human-sized sculptures, dramatically sunken along Lanzarote’s Bahía de Las Coloradas. But Jason deCaires Taylor, their mastermind sculptor, has imagined art with purpose here. His figures not only question our relationship with the ocean, they also replicate natural reef habitats, offering refuge for native marine life from sponges to rainbow rays. To ponder both art and fauna, you’ll need to scuba-dive to the museum with the aid of a local certified instructor. Don’t forget to pack an underwater camera kit. cactlanzarote.com Aer Lingus flies daily from Dublin to Lanzarote 12 times per week and from Cork thrice weekly.
SCULPTURE PARKS
JERRY L. THOMPSON
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2 USA
STORM KING ART PARK NEW YORK
BENJAMIN BENSCHNEIDER
Nestled in the boho stronghold of New York’s trending Hudson Valley, Storm King Art Park is itself a kingdom of contemporary art, blanketing 200 hectares of dreamy Upstate meadowland. As America’s largest sculpture project, the park celebrates large-scale works (from the ilk of Roy Lichtenstein) where visitors wander, hike, or even rent bikes to explore this safari of sculpture. Thinking picnic? Both the park’s artisanal café and food-truck provide the perfect basket-fillers, from free-range pork carnitas to cucumber seltzer. stormking.org Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily and from Shannon six times per week.
4 USA
OLYMPIC SCULPTURE PARK SEATTLE 3 I T A LY
PARCO DEI MOSTRI LAZIO
One of Europe’s original sculpture parks, Parco dei Mostri (Park of Monsters), located an hour north of Rome, has been welcoming the artistic hoi polloi since the 1500s. Built by aristocrat and arts patron Vicino Orsini, the park occupies a magically Medieval setting between the family’s historic castle and (given the summer swelter) mercifully thick woodland. Under its canopy, you’ll discover a cast of moss-shrouded colossuses, from dragons to goddesses, all united by the common thread of amore e arte. sacrobosco.it Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Rome twice daily.
Once a gritty backwater of Seattle’s waterfront, today Olympic Sculpture Park is the city’s largest downtown park, offering Seattleites and their visitors an open-air artistic haven. The Z-shaped, green-belt of contemporary artworks, interspersed with native redwoods and aspens, zig-zags for 700 metres from city bustle to the Puget Sound. Come summer, the kunst + nature fusion really kicks in, with activities from art workshops to yoga, all with the backdrop of the Olympic Mountains. Exhale! seattleartmuseum.org Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Seattle five times per week.
2-5 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2
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A beautifully designed restaurant and bar with delicious food and beverage served to you beneath our bespoke glass ceiling. www.robertas.ie
An intimate and relaxed dining setting where steak is the star of the show. Sit back and watch the theatre of our open kitchen at work. www.tomahawsteakhouse.ie
Save 10% on your bill when you dine with us, just mention CARA MAGAZINE upon booking*. call +353 1 533 7777 or go to www.pressup.ie
*T&Cs – Discount available in Roberta’s and Tomahawk Restaurants when CARA MAGAZINE is mentioned upon booking. Not valid with any other offers. Discount not available in Dollard & Co.
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5 USA
DECORDOVA SCULPTURE PARK AND MUSEUM MASSACHUSETTS New Englanders celebrate their art almost as much as the Red Sox – poster child in point being the deCordova Sculpture Park and Museum located in Boston’s western ’burbs. Visit before September 2019 and the park will be celebrating its New England biennial with the spotlight on artists from the regional states of Massachusetts, Vermont, Rhode Island, Connecticut, Maine and New Hampshire. Expect a kaleidoscopic homage to Northeastern sculptors, all framed by landscaped lawns surrounding postcard Flint Pond. decordova.org Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston twice daily and from Shannon daily.
6 IRELAND
LOUGH BOORA CO OFFALY
It would be difficult to curate a starker backdrop for an art park than the haunting boglands of Ireland’s midlands. But Lough Boora, set on an ancient Mesolithic site near the town of Tullamore, offers a masterclass in stewardship. Tapping into the region’s rich peat-harvesting heritage, exhibits such as the abandoned wagons of “Sky Train” and the steel arcs of “Cycles” woo visitors with earthy industrial edge. There are nature-inspired wonders, too: “Bog Track” is a man-made blackened tree grove, created from millennia-old bog oak. loughboora.com
7 FRANCE
DOMAINE DU MUY PROVENCE
Set in the sirocco-swept wilds of Provence scrubland, Domaine du Muy models the perfect mélange of art and nature. That’s what park director Edward Mitterrand (great-nephew of France’s former President François Mitterrand) was shooting for too. The park’s collection of contemporary objets d’art were selected to offer the most arresting contrast to one of France’s most hostile landscapes. Think the gilded apple of Claude Lalanne, bursting out of the earth like Pop Art in motion, as its real tour de force. domainedumuy.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Nice 11 times per week and from Cork twice weekly.
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8 UK
YORKSHIRE SCULPTURE PARK
The 18th-century Bretton Hall estate is the oh-so-splendid canvas of Britain’s finest open-air gallery – a self-professed homestay to “art without walls”. Its resident highlights include the iconic abstract figures of Henry Moore, while this summer, Damien Hirst fans can gush at his much-anticipated bronze collection. If you’re travelling with a tech-savvy brood, the YSP’s new “sculpture cam” app brings a 3D dimension for younger visitors too. ysp.org.uk Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Leeds Bradford daily.
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THE J. PAUL GETTY MUSEUM, LOS ANGELES, GIFT OF FRAN AND RAY STARK
MINNEAPOLIS SCULPTURE PARK MINNESOTA
Billboarded as the largest urban sculpture park in the world, the brief of the Minneapolis Sculpture Park was to bring an architectural gallery space into the heart of the cityscape. The result is a bold, contemporary statement of works that deliberately contrast with the park’s prim Renaissance gardens and surrounding skyline. Looking for the ultimate aesthetic? “Spoonbridge and Cherry Fountain” is the park’s most iconic sculpture and well worth the line of Instagrammers. walkerart.org
GREG BECKEL, COURTESY OF WALKER ART CENTER
Aer Lingus will fly from Dublin to Minneapolis-St Paul six times per week from July 1 and daily from August.
10 USA
FRAN AND RAY STARK SCULPTURE GARDEN LOS ANGELES With its blockbuster SoCal setting between the Santa Monica Mountains and Downtown Los Angeles, this opus of the iconic Getty Museum arrives thanks to the donated collection of legendary film producer Ray Stark and his wife, Fran. The 28 sculptures include the works of Elisabeth Frink and Isamu Noguchi and, rather than forcing any fusion with the park’s setting, the museum landscaped bespoke gardens (think dreamy agapanthus beds) to complement each individual piece. getty.edu Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.
HIGH HOPES Sandwiched by Little Havana and Miami Beach, Downtown Miami is a playground of high and low culture, and towering ambitions. WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS DIEGO TEXERA
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iami’s nickname “Manhattan of the South” depends on your relationship with the Big Apple. Admirably audacious or insipidly exclusive? Fortunately, it is both things and everything in between, as multifaceted, flawed and bedazzling as any gemstone. Looking at its glistening towers and size-envy yachts, it’s easy to forget that only a century ago the Miami area was swathed in tropical, hardwood hammocks, mangroves, sawgrass marshes, pine rockland and plantations cultivating tropical fruit, sugar cane and corn. Some folk think that Crockett and Tubbs were solely responsible for putting Miami on the world map, but actually, it was citrus plantation owner Julia Tuttle who, in 1894, convinced railroad tycoon Henry Flagler to extend his East Coast Railroad from New York all the way to South Florida
MIAMI
(it was supposed to stop at Palm Springs). This was the first year of the Great Freeze, when the commonly balmy temperatures of North Florida dipped to -8C, destroying crops. South Florida, though, was untouched and as a consequence, saw migrants pouring into what would soon become Miami City, with its eternal allure of prosperity. Due to lax Prohibition laws, bootleggers, gamblers and hedonists followed in the 1920s, resulting in a building boom that segued into South Beach’s transformation into an Art Deco playground of sorbet-toned pleasure palaces aimed at the great, the good and the downright nefarious. On lower South
Beach, once elegant and exclusive – but mercifully still expansive of soft, white sands – now sees spring-breakers and boisterous MCs commandeering wet T-shirt competitions as the sun gets lower. Mornings start late with punch bowl-size margaritas and eggy cures (my advice: go to South Beach early, breakfast at the original 1950s style 11th Street Diner, throw down a towel beside the seaside and get the heck out before Ocean Drive gets lairy). Head northerly on South Beach and it gets considerably more chi-chi, with celebrity sightings including David Beckham, Jennifer Lopez and Jamie Foxx, and super-club cocktails scorching holes in your wallet.
On South Beach, mornings start late with punch bowl-size margaritas and eggy cures
Enjoy THE TEMPLE BAR IRISH WHISKEY Sensibly
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Back over Biscayne Bay to Downtown – in a Porsche 911, naturally – and Brickell is having a moment. With its skyscrapers, retail hubs and office towers, it looks like the financial centre it is and where immense-winged turkey vultures soar and circle high above the concrete jungle, scanning for scraps that lurk below the city’s glossy surface – a lazy metaphor for property developers looking to offload their latest six-million-dollar penthouses. Brickell is deadly serious about capitalism but, in contrast with New York’s Manhattan, locals can actually afford to live here. Also, Miami’s pervasive Latin American influence makes Downtown feel largely unpretentious and slow-paced (around 70 per cent of Miami’s population is Hispanic or Latino). There is less streetlevel argy-bargy. There are fewer car horns. Maybe it’s to do with the sultry heat too: if you’re damned hot, why get damned bothered also? Even the shops in Brickell City Centre – a colossus of restaurants, residencies, retail, offices and probably the fanciest/coolest new cinema on the planet – don’t open until 11am.
At Lost Boy, a piano has been transformed into a communal table, music is wiggle-worthy, wingback chairs are made for sinking into and the mezcal is dangerously moreish ... City Centre also houses one of Downtown’s best hotels: EAST (see “Sleep”, page 90). A sleek hotspot with a cool reserve, its leafy, sundownerappropriate rooftop bar Sugar (sugarmiami.com) attracts well-heeled, laidback locals, while more high-energy scenesters join the pulsating, cocktail-aloft masses inside, where a wraparound constellation of city lights seem to throb to a reggaeton soundtrack. A more understated bar is Lost Boy Dry Goods (lostboydrygoods. com), a ten-minute cab ride from EAST and self-styled as a “Colorado miner’s saloon” crossed with an English pub. Here, a piano has been transformed into a communal table, music is wiggle-worthy, wingback chairs are made for sinking into and the mezcal cocktails are dangerously moreish. The next morning you might need a café colada … a shareable staple among Cuban
communities. These potent, takeaway, Cuban-style espressos comprise up to six shots and are typically served in a Styrofoam cup along with demitasses for dividing into individual measures. We made the fatal error of swigging our shots one early evening at Latin Café 200 in Brickell Plaza (latincafe.com) – and didn’t sleep a wink that night, so handle with care if you’re not looking to paint the town rojo. By now you’ll be suitably pepped for a dawdle around Miami Design District (MDD; miamidesigndistrict. net), a handsome, upscale shopping neighbourhood studded with ateliers, showrooms, design schools, galleries, including the must-visit Institute of Contemporary Art (icamiami.org) and cultural happenings, such as culinary and art tours and open-air classical music concerts. The usual luxury brands that
Opening pages, broad horizons at the hotel EAST, Miami in the commercial Brickell district. Previous page, at the other end of the spectrum is the distinctly low-rise and slower-paced Little Havana. Clockwise from above, Massimo Casagrande, director of education at the Istituto Marangoni, which teaches the tools of the fashion trade in the Miami Design District; rooftop bar Sugar is quite the sweet spot; Chinese-Peruvian street eats at Chi-Fa, the food truck at VEZA SUR Brewing; skate-park tricks in Mana Wynwood; a mezcal moment at Sugar.
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SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MIAMI twice per week.
you can find in any major city are here – Louis Vuitton, Bvlgari, Gucci, Tom Ford – however, here each building has been designed by a different architect. Well-aware, also, that fashion is one of the world’s biggest pollutive industries, MDD has gallantly achieved gold LEED status (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) through high-achieving, lowimpact sustainable design. While the Sunshine State seems slow to harness solar power, in Miami Design District, more than 80 per cent of its rooftops are carpeted by grass that not only provides green corridors for birds but also helps conserve energy and manage stormwater run-off during rainy season between June and September. It also looks nice. Less lofty, though no less commercial art, can be found 20 minutes away at Wynwood Walls (thewynwoodwalls.com), where street art, in an annexed courtyard, attracts Instagram tourists in their droves, each one taking selfies in front of murals commissioned by megabuck developers
Goldman Properties, who previously transformed New York’s SoHo in the 1980s and Philadelphia Center City in the 1990s. This is a place where international muralists are flown into Miami every December for Art Basel (artbasel.com), much to the chagrin of some local artists, who would prefer a more meaningful, longterm investment into this former textiles estate that still has pockets of neglect. If, like me, you feel almost misty-eyed at a more subversive era of graffiti, you will find The Wynwood Walls as interesting as watching spray-paint dry. That’s not to discredit the clearly talented artists, but do consider eschewing the annexed “Walls” and scope out the less-curated — and much less crowded — street art in this popular ’hood that demonstrably straddles high and low culture. Pit-stop at Coyo Taco (coyo-taco.com), a modest, well-tasty taco shop, which was visited by none other than Barack Obama the day after our visit. For more leisurely bites and libations, head to the beer garden of nearby VEZA SUR Brewing (vezasur.com), where food truck Chi-Fa serves craft-beer heads with terrific Chinese-Peruvian – yes, really – popcorn shrimp, charred corn and skewered anticuchos. Geographical jiggery-pokery also extends to the house beer menu that traverses Belgium (witbier), Germany (hefeweizen) and Mexico (micheladas) – and more – infusing concoctions with exotic fruits such as guava, yerba, mango and pomegranate. This independent brewpub is the brainchild of co-founder and master brewer, the German-born Asbjorn Gerlach, who established Kross, the second largest brewery in Chile. Like in most major cities, the G-word (gentrification) is a double-edged sword. But in the more neglected parts of Wynwood, aka Little San Juan, investment is very much welcomed by locals, who need better housing, affordable amenities and a more family-friendly bias. Beyond Miami’s bling, there are evidently rough edges that still need smoothing out and with kid gloves. But not to the detriment of its unique yet multicultural character that makes the place such a bobby-dazzler.
DISCOVER THE HOME of IRISH DESIGN With over 150 Irish brands at our Dublin Flagship Store, Nassau Street
For the month of June visit our unique exhibition of WATERFORD Complimentary engraving, ask in store for details. TEXTILES | POTTERY | CRAFTS | GIFTS | CRYSTAL | JEWELLERY | KNITWEAR | ART
Award Winning Restaurant Overlooking Trinity College WORLDWIDE SHIPPING | TAX FREE SHOPPING | FREE WIFI Stores Nationwide • www.kilkennyshop.com
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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS SLEEP BRICKELL High-up and high-tech, skyscraper EAST, Miami has a touchscreen elevator system in which guests tap key cards and are directed to one of four alphabetised lifts. In a building of 40 floors and 352 guest rooms, this is a big plus and means a quick journey to your slick room, where floor-to-ceiling windows look out on to glass balconies. The pool deck, below right, makes for heat-quenching days, Quinta La Huella restaurant for balmy nights, while Sephora fans will enjoy the hotel being built into a shopping mall. Rooms from $219. (788 Brickell Plaza, +1 305 712 7000; east-miami.com) LITTLE HAVANA Life House Little Havana is a recent addition to the Cuban neighbourhood, although the mansion itself dates back to the 1920s. The property has been restored and now welcomes discerning travellers to its Havana-inspired enclave, where design nerds will rejoice in Cassina LC7 chairs, Hans Wegner sofas, contemporary Cuban artwork and double-size bunk beds. A rooftop bar and pool offer city views, and its proximity to Ball & Chain bar’s margaritas is all too tempting. Rooms from $103. (528 SW 9th Ave, +1 866 466 7534; designhotels.com)
in the Design District with sharing plates and a multi-course set menu with cocktail and whiskey pairings. Look out soon for its downstairs sister, Ember, where Kilgore breathes new life into the steakhouse concept. Wood-fired lasagne, anyone? (151 NE 41st St Unit 217, +1 786 409 5591; kaidomiami.com) SCENESTER On looks alone, you might not think that Swan would be co-owned by Pharrell Williams – 1960s Beverley Hills meets Beverley Hills 90210 meets Pretty in Pink. But the Happy artist is one-third of this winning triumvirate of Top Chef winner Jean Imbert and hospitality big cheese David Grutman. Gorgeous patio and duskier charms upstairs at Bar Bevy. (90 NE 39th St, +1 305 704 0994; swanbevy.com) ITALIANO Do–ma is a classy, unassuming Italian restaurant in Wynwood that quietly and confidently impresses diners with its handmade pasta and in-season ingredients. Chef Luca Lomonaco cut his teeth in the Michelin-starred Quince in San Francisco before returning to
Miami’s Tamarina as its wine guru. At Do–ma he combines both passions, with tastebud-tickling results. And if you can’t beat ’em join ’em: enrol in a pasta-making masterclass at La Cucina (lacentralemiami. com) in Brickell City Centre. There, a fun workshop is enlivened by a generous flow of wine, before sampling the fruits of your labour. (35 NE 26th St, +1 786 953 6946; domawynwood.com)
SMART TIPS ARRIVALS Metromover is a free, overground, automated train system that takes the pain out of Downtown traffic – and also links up with Miami International Airport via the Metrorail Orange Line. For live info, download the Transit Tracker app at miamidade.gov. DEPARTURES Miami International Airport is overdue a makeover, not least its food outlets. Best to be well fed and watered before you arrive to catch your flight back to Dublin, rather than rely on the current dining options in the terminal.
SOUTH BEACH Miami is well known for its luxury hotels but budget travellers can still tap into “the scene” at the Freehand, a hotel/hostel with one of Miami’s hottest cocktail bars, Broken Shaker. Housed in an original 1930s building a block away from the beach, it has private en suites, shared rooms, suites and bungalows, all of which are light and bright. And the outdoor pool is practically within diving distance. Super 8 bunk rooms from $20; quad bunks from $23. (2727 Indian Creek Dr, +1 305 531 2727; freehandhotels.com)
EAT FLASHY A household name around Miami, chef Bradley Kilgore is expert in creating restaurants that people will happily join wait-lists for. His first venture, Alter, was a raging success and now he has Kaido, a lounge-vibe Japanese restaurant
Previous page, hot shot – Randy Alonso, co-owner of Lost Boy Dry Goods, whose bar menu is carefully crafted by business partner Chris ‘Soho House’ Hudnall, and a thirst-quenching Double IPA at VEZA SUR. This page, above, an urban oasis at EAST, Miami.
Fรกilte Approved
Pub
CATALAN CHARM Bold and beautiful, Barcelona is an evergreen oasis of history, design, culture and cuisine. WORDS SHAYNA SAPPINGTON PHOTOGRAPHS PIOTR DYBOWSKI
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Opening spread, La Estrella Herida sculpture at Barceloneta beach. This page, clockwise from left, Plaça Reial off La Rambla with its lamposts designed by Antoni Gaudí; Tomek Araucz from Rolltravel skate adventure; the Santa Eulàlia schooner, next to Rambla De Mar; top tapas at El Canalla in Sarria; mural dedicated to Frida Kahlo by Joel Arroyo in Gràcia.
BARCELONA
Visit our one-stop shop for all your package holiday needs via aerlingus.com. Find the perfect family holiday to the sun, romantic city break, unforgettable cruises and more.
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SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BARCELONA twice daily, and from Cork five times per week.
Clockwise from right, Daenerys Targaryen by street artist Axe Colours in Gràcia; Casa Milà, popularly known as La Pedrera, the final private residence designed by architect Antoni Gaudí; panoramic views from the Giradabo wheel at Tibidabo park. Next page, Gaudí’s magical Park Güell overlooks the sun-kissed city.
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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS EAT STAPLE Don’t be fooled by the casual atmosphere, the cuisine at Bar Tomás de Sarrià is anything but ordinary. It’s famous for traditional potato dish patatas bravas, which emerges from the fryer an irresistible gold, dripping with olive oil. The long bar and friendly staff make it the perfect place to snack and chat over tapas. Favourites include delicately fried bonito empanadillas, crispy and flavourful chicken croquettes and anchovies fresh from the Cantabrian Sea. (Carrer Major de Sarrià 49, +34 932 031 077; eltomasdesarria.com) FOR THE INDECISIVE The modern styled El Nacional conveniently comprises four smaller restaurants – The Braseria (meats), La Llotja (fish), The Taperia (tapas and rice) and The Stop (delicatessen). Culinary options are almost endless in this fresh, open space. Afterwards, toast your meal with local wine or sparkling Cava in one of four bars. Large tables make it an ideal lunchtime getaway with co-workers, or a cool night-time spot with friends. (Passeig de Gràcia 24 Bis, +34 935 185 053; elnacionalbcn.com) SHOP FRESH Homemade pasta, smoked salami and delectable wines make
La Deliteca a gastronomic oasis for the Italian-inclined craving. The multi-purpose eatery sells everything you need to create an authentic pasta dish from Genoan pesto to tubs of quattro formaggi. Not sure? Take a seat and sample a smorgasbord of meats, cheeses and olives. Patient and informative staff love to help customers create the perfect recipe. (Carrer de Santa Amèlia 24, +34 931 394 215; la-deliteca.negocio.site)
STAY BOUTIQUE It’s easy to see why Little Beach House Barcelona is in high demand. Featuring just 17 bedrooms, each space has been uniquely crafted to emanate coastal vibes, with soft pastels, tasselled throws and seaside terraces touched with wicker. The lobby, decorated with leafy palms and ceramic art, opens out onto the beach where guests can snag a lounge chair and indulge in Mediterranean cuisine. Rooms from €185. (Carrer Mirador del Port 1, +34 935 221 552; littlebeachhousebarcelona.com) DANISH DELIGHT “Home is not a place, it’s a feeling” is the ever so cosy Margot House mantra. Although Danish styled, this hotel is decorated with locally produced furniture and linens, making guests feel at
home while abroad. Cookery workshops, book club meetings and pop-up clothing stores are also available. Be sure to grab one of Margot’s exclusive neighbourhood guides to discover some of Barcelona’s best-kept secrets. Rooms from €101 per person. (Paseo de Gracia 46, +34 932 720 076; margothouse.es) FOR THE VIEW It’s impossible to miss the towering W Barcelona, rising from the busy beach. Designed by Ricardo Bofill, this masterpiece boasts 473 rooms with mesmerising, panoramic views of the Med. With luxurious amenities, the five-star hotel is the icon of modernity, containing high-energy interiors and vivid designs. Take a dip in the Wet Deck’s infinity pool or unwind in a private cabana. And when the sun sets, watch the deck transform into a DJ spin lounge. Rooms from €349. (Plaça Rosa Del Vents 1, Final, Passeig de Joan de Borbó, +34 932 95 28 00; marriott.co.uk)
SMART TIP ARRIVALS The Renfe train service runs approximately every half-hour to and from Barcelona airport to the city centre. The journey takes around 25 minutes and connects with the underground Metro system. renfe.com
ONLY 10 MINUTES from Dublin Airport
VISIT DUBLIN’S BEST-KEPT SECRET
Step back into the 18th century and take a guided tour of this impeccably restored Georgian property. Newbridge House is a hidden gem with 370 acres of pastureland, woodland walks, new interactive farm experience, playground and delicious homemade treats served at the Coach House Café. Audio guides for house tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Chinese.
Book online at newbridgehouseandfarm.com
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MAGNIFICENT MALAHIDE CASTLE IS A STONE’S THROW AWAY
Malahide Castle is a magnificent medieval castle just 10 minutes from Dublin Airport. The castle is set on 250 acres of parkland with a story dating back to the 12th Century. Enjoy daily tours of the castle, visit the ornamental walled gardens, fairy trail, exotic butterfly house and dine or shop at the Avoca Café and Retail store. We look forward to your visit. Audio guides for house tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Chinese.
Book online at malahidecastleandgardens.ie
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ADVERTORIAL
A MARVEL OF ENGINEERING
T
he last time my father visited the Mondello Park racetrack, he arrived in a one hundred and one year-old car. It was during a day-trip for the Irish Ford Model-T Club, a group of enthusiasts and restorers of the world’s first mass-produced automobile. On that occasion, dad tells me he managed to reach the Model-T’s top speed of about 60kph, which he only half-jokes is attainable ”on a straight road with the wind behind you’. On his second trip to the Co. Kildare, the heart of Irish motor racing, things promise to be a lot quicker. If you have the right track and nerves of steel, the BMW M2 we get to drive as part of the
Kevin Keane is the Head of Marketing, Sponsorship and Communications with Triathlon Ireland.
BMW Driving Experience will reach more than 250kph. Having driven both cars, it’s hard to say which is more terrifying – the raw power and growl of the M2 or the rudimentary engineering of the Model-T. My dad (who is responsible for much of the upkeep of this century old engineering) agrees: ‘There’s no trouble driving a Model-T fast, the trouble is stopping the Model-T’. One of the things that surprises about the BMW M2 as it hurtles in to the corners of the Mondello track is just how reassuring the brakes are. After a few laps, and with some gentle coaxing from our instructor, Noel Roddy, we approach a corner carrying so much more speed than the driver of an average car could ever imagine. The M2 is a marvel of technology – it’s all about reassurance as
it decelerates in to each turn and adrenaline as it surges back out of it. At the end of our session, Noel brings Bryan on a hot lap to show what the car is capable of in the hands of an expert. Roddy has spent more than 30 years racing all types of car and according to Bryan pushed the M2 for every second of the two minutes that it took before it arrived back in the pit to the smell of burning rubber. It was a thrilling showcase but according to Noel you don’t have to be a good driver to enjoy the BMW Mondello Experience. “The majority of people won’t ever be able to buy a car like this so for BMW to have these cars available to the public at Mondello is great. For people to be able to experience the build, the handling and the engineering… it makes them come away happy and smiling.”
You can get behind the wheel of the new BMW M2 Competition or BMW M4 and unleash the power of the precision of BMW at Mondello Park this summer. With prices starting from €199 this could be a truly memorable present this Father’s Day. Visit www.mondellopark.ie/bmw-driving-experience
PHOTOS BY BRYAN KEANE – FORMER OLYMPIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER WITH THE INPHO AGENCY.
Kevin Keane and his father, Bryan, are born motor enthusiasts. Join them as they take to the track for the exhilirating BMW Driving Experience at Mondello Park.
FIVE IRISH GREENWAYS Nicola Brady takes the off-road track to tranquillity.
CHRIS HILL
CONNEMARA While the popularity of the much-loved Great Western Greenway (greenway.ie) is undeniable, the newly
launched Connemara Greenway is nipping at its heels. Though only the first 6km is complete, this initial stretch is a corker, running through the dreamy Connemara landscape. One end of the route is practically at the gates of Ballynahinch Castle (ballynahinch-castle. com), so make the most of it by calling in for a bowl of chowder and a pint by the fireside. When the rest of the greenway is complete, it will span the 76km from Galway to Clifden. connemaragreenway.ie
CLARE KEOGH
ROYAL CANAL In its entirety, the Royal Canal spans all the way from Dublin’s River Liffey to Clondara in Co Longford. Due to officially open later this year, the first section of the Royal Canal Greenway will start in Maynooth and finish in Cloondara. The towpath follows the route of the canal and passes quaint country villages and peaceful rural tableaus. On your journey you’ll discover pretty bridges, vibrant hedgerows and buildings in Abbeyshrule that can be traced back to 1200 AD. royalcanalgreenway.ie
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WATERFORD
Stretching between Waterford City and Dungarvan, this 46km greenway meanders through the pictureperfect countryside of the Southeast. The former railway line is a dream to explore, the wide, off-road track shared peacefully by walkers, cyclists and the odd pup. Whether you tackle it on two wheels or two feet, you’ll make your way through gorgeous spots, along the edges of the River Suir, through foreboding brick tunnels and over soaring viaducts (those with a fear of heights have been warned!). visitwaterfordgreenway.com
belly of Ireland’s Ancient East, then this is the greenway to go for. Kicking off in Dominic’s Park in Drogheda, this route takes you from the banks of the River Boyne, alongside the canal and over nifty boardwalks to Oldbridge, where you’ll find the Battle of the Boyne Visitor Centre. Though the greenway is a short one (just a whisper under 2km), be sure to allow plenty of time to stop at the heritage signs dotted along the boardwalks – they’re filled with information about Boyne Valley’s ancient mythology. drogheda.ie
FÁILTE IRELAND
BOYNE If you want to get into the
GREENWAYS
GREAT SOUTHERN Also known as the Limerick Greenway, this 39km route runs from Rathkeale to Abbeyfeale. Although
it’s one of the lesser-known greenways, it ambles through some gorgeous stopping points, from beautiful cut-stone bridges to Norman castles and Medieval ruins to abbeys. The majority of the route traverses the peaceful landscape of Limerick, where you’ll walk under the shade of trees alongside gently rolling fields. In each of the market towns (Rathkeale, Newcastle West and Abbeyfeale) there are shorter looped walks, which complement the main route. southerntrail.net
FÁILTE IRELAND
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TITANIC
THE LEGEND THE STORY Explore the sights, sounds and stories of RMS Titanic at this world leading visitor attraction, in the city where it all began.
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48 HOURS
48 HOURS IN
SEATTLE Maggy Lehmicke navigates the neighbourhoods of the coffee capital of the world.
DON’T MISS LIVELY The city is known for its neighbourhoods, and Capitol Hill is the most quintessential “Seattle” of them all. Rainbow-painted sidewalks (a nod to the LGBT community) and café-lined streets are just a snapshot of what to expect. Be sure to visit the two-storey Starbucks Roastery and swing by Melrose Market – an indoor food and retail space in an historic automotive building. visitseattle.org
EAT
SKY-HIGH A must-see for aviation fanatics, the Museum of Flight is the largest independent, non-profit air and space museum in the world, maintaining tens of thousands of artefacts and dozens of exhibits. The nearby Boeing Future of Flight Aviation Center is another bucket-list item, giving visitors the opportunity to see inside the workings of the planes they arrived on. (9404 E Marginal Way South, +1 206 764 5700; museumofflight.org)
ENTICING Hidden in Post Alley behind a blush-coloured door with no signage, The Pink Door’s name speaks for itself. A few steps away from Pike Place Market, the burlesque-inspired Italian restaurant is a long-time local favourite, offering weekly trapeze and cabaret shows fitting to the burlesque theme. A charming outdoor terrace with views of Elliott Bay and the islands is just an added perk. (1919 Post Alley, Seattle, +1 206 443 3241; thepinkdoor.net)
SCENIC A 216-hectare natural area and the largest park in the city, Discovery Park is perched on Magnolia Bluff, offering spectacular views of the Puget Sound, Cascades and Olympics. Nearly 19 kilometres of trails are flanked by active sand dunes, tidal beaches and dramatic cliff sides. (3801 Discovery Park Blvd, +1 206 684 4075; seattle.gov)
RENOWNED Seattle is no stranger to quality Japanese cuisine, and Shiro’s Sushi is no exception. Launched by master sushi chef Shiro Kashiba himself, the Belltown restaurant combines impeccable craftsmanship with fresh, local fare. Though Shiro has handed the restaurant on to a new team, the Japanese culinary mastery remains the same. (2401 2nd Ave, +1 206 443 9844; shiros.com)
Clockwise from top, rainbow bright in Capitol Hill; the emblematic skyline; salubrious urban mixology; The Nest, at Thompson Seattle; bustling Pike Place Corner Market; so-called
© VISIT SEATTLE
Spring Cake at Bakery Nouveau.
DECADENT No place complements Seattle’s coffee scene like Bakery Nouveau – an iconic, French-style café in the West Seattle neighbourhood. The bakery has been around for the past 13 years and is primarily known for its fresh, twice-baked almond croissants. There are outlets in Capitol Hill and Burien, but we recommend stopping by the original. (4737 California Ave SW, +1 206 923 0534; bakerynouveau.com)
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SLEEP ICONIC Rich in history, The Arctic Club was established in 1908 in Pioneer Square as a social place for men returning from the Yukon Gold Rush. Today, an opulent interior with Alaskan marble and terracotta walrus masks are accompanied by an upscale American restaurant (JUNO) and cocktail lounge (Polar Bar). The building is now a City of Seattle Landmark and is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Rooms from $250. (700 3rd Ave, +1 206 340 0340; doubletree3.hilton.com) ARTY Characterised by its eclectic art displays and guestrooms with curated vinyl collections, Hotel Max attracts a variety of creatives. Music lovers should beeline to Max’s fifth floor, where each room pays homage to Sub Pop Records – Seattle’s famous independent record label. The hotel’s central location is an additional draw, as well as its complimentary craft beer hour that takes place every evening from 5.30 to 6.30pm. Rooms from $212. (620 Stewart St, +1 206 728 6299; hotelmaxseattle.com)
DRINK EXTRAVAGANT The brainchild of some of Seattle’s most creative minds, Deep Dive’s eccentric decor and prominent location at the base of the Amazon Spheres are almost surpassed by its lavish food and beverage menu. Pair the $18 Seattle dog with a Chill Pill for a truly indulgent experience. (620 Lenora St, +1 206 900 9390; deepdiveseattle.com) COSY What was once Percy’s Men’s Furnishings is now Percy’s & Co – a Prohibition-era cocktail bar located in Seattle’s Ballard neighbourhood. Today, Percy’s serves up apothecary-inspired cocktails, many of which are concocted with local fruit and herbs from the rooftop garden. The bar also specialises in Southern-style food and small plates, including the tasty Cajun-spiced popcorn. (5233 Ballard Ave NW, +1 206 420 3750; percysseattle.com) BUZZWORTHY What would a trip to the coffee capital of the world be without some signature espresso? With nearly 300 coffee shops in the city, it’s hard to choose just one, though a special trip to Café Allegro in the University District comes highly recommended. Coined Seattle’s “original espresso bar”, the café has been around for the past 40 years and continues to roast small batches onsite. (4214 University Way NE, +1 206 633 3030; seattleallegro.com)
SMART FLIERS
AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SEATTLE five times per week.
REFINED The Thompson Seattle is one of the city’s more luxurious boutique hotels, with easy access to the waterfront and the best shops and bars downtown. Many rooms offer floor-to-ceiling windows with expansive views of the surrounding Puget Sound, though the most breathtaking of them all is from The Nest – the hotel’s popular rooftop bar. Rooms from $281. (110 Stewart St, +1 206 623 4600; thompsonhotels.com)
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locations across Ireland & Northern Ireland
Fitzwillam Hall
16 Fitzwilliam Place
Grand Canal House
33 Fitzwiliam Square
Fitzwilliam Court
Arthur Place
24 Fitzwiliam Place
Arthur House
City Quarter
Fully fitted flexible workspace & coworking in Dublin, Belfast & Cork glandore.ie | info@glandore.ie | +353 669 4700
BUSINESS
SAN FRANCISCO
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COOL SF Northern California’s cultural and counterculture capital knows how to work and play, says Elizabeth Heath.
O
n any shortlist of Great American Cities, San Francisco is right up there with New York and Chicago. But SF, with its iconic bridge, quaint Victorian architecture and unique climate, is quite unlike any other city in the US – and possibly the world. It has always drawn dreamers and seekers, from the pioneers of the 1849 Gold Rush to the Flower Children of the 1960s. It’s consistently at the forefront of progressive cultural change and has long been a haven – and a beacon – for the LGBT community. It leads the way in sustainability, clean energy and community-focused policies. With an efficient public transport system, plenty of green spaces, high-paying jobs and a highly skilled workforce, plus a culinary scene that relies on the bounty of the fertile valleys surrounding the city, San Francisco seems to have it all. Yet the disparities between the haves and have-nots are laid as bare here as in any other major city, and San
Franciscans have long struggled with homelessness for which there are no easy answers. As a business hub, trade, technology and real estate are its three kings. San Francisco has one of the most expensive housing markets in the US, as people from all over the world seek the special quality of life the city offers and are willing to pay an astronomically high price for their own square metres of paradise – Northern California-style. If you’re in San Francisco for business or pleasure, you are likely to witness a lot of the best and a little of the worst, and easily take note of what works and what doesn’t.
SMART FLIERS
AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.
GET SMART ARRIVALS BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) has direct trains from the airport to points throughout downtown. The half-hour ride to the Embarcadero costs about $10. Yellow Cabs (fares are $35 to $55 from SFO) are an alternative. (bart.gov, or yellowcabsf.com) CO-EXIST Head to either the Financial District or SoMa branches of Workshop Café, a co-working environment with tasty food, low hourly rates and good company. Use their handy app to reserve your spot. (180 Montgomery Ave or 25 Spear St; workshopcafe.com)
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EAT STYLE It may be the most fashionable bar in the Mission District and certainly has a VIP pedigree. Wildhawk, owned by California governor (and former San Francisco mayor) Gavin Newsom’s restaurant group, serves slightly overwrought cocktails in a dark, sexy setting that glitters and glows almost as much as its mostly millennial crowd. House martinis here are gigantic. (3464 19th St, +1 415 830 9444; wildhawksf.com)
ADVENTURE If your experience with sushi has been limited to tiny pieces of fish set on rice, it’s time to try Kusakabe. The Zen-like eatery in the heart of the Financial District serves high-end Japanese cuisine kaisekistyle, for an elaborate multicourse meal. And not a California roll in sight. (584 Washington St, +1 415 757 0155; kusakabe-sf.com)
WATERFRONT It’s more than just a place to catch a boat. In the main hall of the 1898 landmark, under a lofty roof, the Ferry Building Marketplace houses arts and crafts stalls and also a gourmet food hall: the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, which has bountiful Bay Area produce. Grab lunch or a coffee and watch the ferries come and go across the bay. (One Ferry Building, +1 415 983 8000; ferrybuildingmarketplace.com)
BUSINESS
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STAY ON TREND Follow the cool kids to San Francisco Proper Hotel, a chic boutique property set in a distinctive, vintage building. Designed with a heavy hand, the Proper features quirky accents, busily patterned rooms, haute dining and an open-air rooftop lounge you’ll likely never want to leave. If your budget allows, splurge on a junior suite or larger. Rooms from $212. (1100 Market St, +1 415 735 7777; properhotel.com)
SERENE A noticeable calm permeates Hotel Nikko, a modern boutique property at Union Square. Light-filled rooms and common areas are a study in tranquility, with soothing white, blue and taupe colour schemes. Dining and drinking options include an intimate lounge and a nightclub with live music. There’s also an indoor pool, a gym and a business centre. Rooms from $175. (222 Mason St, +1 415 394 1111; hotelnikkosf.com)
FRONT AND CENTRE The Hyatt Regency San Francisco is a modern, angular landmark on the Financial District skyline and a behemoth of a business hotel. It keeps tourist and business-class guests returning to its 800-plus rooms, conference centre, dining options, soaring atrium lobby and the Regency Club lounge with sweeping bay views. BART, ferry and cable car connections are just outside the door. Rooms from $200. (5 Embarcadero Center, +1 415 788 1234; hyatt.com)
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Still, people come looking for something they cannot find where they live now. We are an international, diverse, tolerant, expensive city with great weather. What is one of your earliest, fondest memories of life in the city? My first impression on moving here from Chicago was that the light was better and everyone seemed to paint their homes. And the weather was gorgeous – it was hard to find a clear, sunny day in the mid-60s (F) in Chicago.
REAL DEALS William Drypolcher is the founding broker of Zephyr Real Estate, the number one property seller in San Francisco, with more than $2.3 billion in annual sales. He spoke to Cara about why he loves doing business – and living – in the City by the Bay. Is San Francisco a challenging place to do business? Is the real estate brokerage field challenging? You bet. There are over 10,000 licensed agents in the city and more than a thousand companies all doing basically the same thing – representing buyers and sellers in residential real estate. You learn very fast that people are very smart here and you have to have your A-game to be successful.
San Francisco consistently ranks as one of America’s most expensive cities. What is it about the quality of life here that continues to draw new residents and homebuyers? The cost of living in the whole Bay Area and specifically San Francisco can be problematic. The price of an average, single family home exceeds $1.5 million. I have said for many years that San Francisco is just like Manhattan but slightly cheaper and with more garages.
How do you spend your downtime? The city itself is a 24/7 place but provides great recreation for both young and old. To get a bit of fresh air and quiet, I go an hour north of the Golden Gate Bridge to Sonoma County and wine country. The look and feel is rural and quaint. Try wine tasting at one of the out-ofthe-way wineries. In San Francisco, take a walk along the wharf area, away from Fisherman’s Wharf (unless you want more people rather than less).
Fly return to SAN FRANCISCO from Dublin or Shannon for 32,500 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*
*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES
CEO INSIDER
Where’s your go-to spot for lunch? For either lunch or dinner in San Francisco, Zuni Café is my first choice. It’s a typical San Francisco menu, with great seafood, chicken dishes done right and a wood-fired pizza oven. Clients are upscale and I always make a reservation. It’s great for a business meal or just for people watching. (1658 Market St, +1 415 552 2522; zunicafe.com)
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BUSINESS
A DAY IN THE LIFE
Managing director Michael Kelly founded the Irish, flexible workspace and co-working company Glandore in 2001. It now comprises nine properties across Dublin, Belfast and Cork. Providing fullyfitted, flexible workspaces for startups, scale-ups and multinational corporations, he now runs the company alongside his three daughters. glandore.co 7.30am When I’m in Dublin, I start my day, if possible, by going to the gym. It gives me the headspace to process what needs to be done in the day ahead. Breakfast is the most important meal of the day and mine is healthy and light, usually porridge with fruit and nuts. On the days that I’m going to our offices in Cork or Belfast, which is regularly, I start my day with travel and aim to be there and back in the same day. 9.30am When I arrive at my office, I check emails and organise them by levels of priority. I am also the managing director of our on-site restaurant Suesey Street and private dining venue No. 25 Fitzwilliam Place, so every morning I follow up and review the takings from the restaurant and venue from the night before. I go over my schedule and check the calendar for the day ahead. 11am I like my mid-morning caffeine pickme-up, and I’ll do this with a cappuccino in Suesey Street if I’m in Dublin, while scanning the newspapers. I’ll also make the time to review social media activity, Twitter and LinkedIn – my marketing team keep telling me that I also need to get onto Instagram! Afterwards, I spend some time liaising with our operations team on what’s happening within the buildings. We have nine properties across Ireland and Northern Ireland so we might have various member companies moving in at any one time or making adjustments to their office configurations, on which the team update me. 1pm Lunchtime is often with fellow directors of Glandore, who are family members – my
I LOVE VISITIN G …
VENICE I especially love Venice when it’s not too hot (and when there aren’t too many pigeons). One of my favourite places is Hotel Danieli (marriott.com) which offers a taxi-boat that goes between the different islands. Harry’s Bar (cipriani.com), the original, is one of my favourites; I especially enjoy their cocktails and seafood.
three daughters, Fiona, Clare and Rebecca, to be exact. While it’s important to make time for family matters, when we’re in work we’re focused on the business, and it’s usually a working lunch. In Suesey Street I almost always have the market fresh fishof-the-day. I believe that eating seafood regularly is good food for the brain. 2pm I like a change of environment from my main office, and the nature of the business is workplace flexibility. Favouring a switch in the afternoons, I take advantage of our offerings and I grab my laptop and work from one of our co-working spaces. We are always working on new projects, expansions and initiatives, so my afternoon generally involves meetings and brainstorming ideas around such projects with our sales, marketing and business development teams.
SAN FRANCISCO We try to visit San Francisco at least once a year. It's very forward thinking and futuristic when it comes to business and work. We also conduct research around foreign direct investment opportunities into Ireland and Northern Ireland, planning meetings with emerging companies when we can.
4pm If it’s a Wednesday afternoon, at this time I’m usually on a course [swings imaginary golf club]. The more practice the better. In all seriousness, the world of work is so fast-paced and demanding, I think it’s important to take time for yourself, and we encourage all our staff to prioritise a healthy work-life balance. 7pm I regularly attend networking events, awards dinners and business functions with stakeholders, partners and chambers of commerce, so most days I am busy until late into the evening. If I take a night off and I’m not out, it’s usually a walk and a game of tennis after work (if weather permits) followed by dinner at home with my better half, Ann Marie.
BOSTON My first visit to Boston was at the age of 20. It’s amazing to see how much it has developed since. The last time I visited we had a family gathering of the Boston “cousins”, with more than 40 people in attendance. There wasn’t one first cousin in the room, but it was fantastic to be among family nonetheless and lots of second cousins.
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HOTELS
3 NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK
WASHINGTON DC An oldie but a goodie, The DC Dupont Circle has been transformed after a multimillion-dollar hotel investment spearheaded by Bernie Gallagher, chairman of Irish hoteliers The Doyle Collection. Clodagh Design and interior designer Martin Brudnizki have joined forces to revive the lobby, bar and suites, and relaunch a restaurant and café. Rooms from $250. doylecollection.com.
GOOD CHIMES Nancy Rockett long-stays in Leeds, Yorkshire.
O
nce upon a time, the 19thcentury Kirkgate House belonged to the clergy before it became a refuge for soldiers returning from World War II. Decades of disrepair followed before it was thankfully rescued by a private investor in 2014 and remains one of Leeds’ finest – and probably quirkiest – serviced properties. Seven apartments are named after a famous bell, in tribute to the jolly peals from the Leeds Minster, outside. Liberty is a onebed, two-bathroom mezzanine extravaganza of high-spec design and kooky details. A full, open-plan kitchen is as snazzy as it is practical, with sleek, industrial-style finishes softened by reclaimed wood as it segues into a double-height lounge with a massive L-shaped caramel leather couch and a balcony beyond. Think “Cribs” rather than a characterless, self-catering shoebox.
With American politics so divisive, the giant Donald Trump portrait – red clown nose and a flaccid cigarette – may feel a tad disconcerting ... Fortunately, it can’t be seen from the glass-encased bedroom, where wraparound curtains ensure total privacy. Reception is open 9am-1pm, and there's an out-of-hours emergency number. All amenities are on the doorstep, from supermarkets to pubs, bars and high-street shops. If you’re staying on a Wednesday, make time to visit the nearby Tetley (thetetley.org), a beautiful, Art Decoera brewery HQ that has been transformed into a contemporary art space and is open until 8pm midweek. Admission is free, and its bar and kitchen are open until late most nights. Apartments from £175. (6 Church Row, +44 113 344 9525; thebellsleeds.com)
ATHENS Guest rooms in the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel are so light and airy – and the waterside views so wide – that there’s a feeling of being on a top-class cruise liner. Thirty hectares of pine trees and three private beaches envelop the five-star property, but with Athens’ sprawling city centre only 25 kilometres away, you’re never far from the hubbub. Rooms from €585. fourseasons.com
VIENNA The Austrian capital is now hopping with hip hotels, and Max Brown 7th District is a cool new entry into the thriving, creative Neubau neighbourhood. Despite having a sizeable 140 rooms and suites over six storeys, the emphasis here is on community and conviviality, the hotel hosting weekly events with Vienna-based authors, filmmakers, designers and artists. Rooms from €96. maxbrownhotels.com
Releasing your growth potential Multi-jurisdictional tax advice to grow your presence in Ireland and beyond Playing host to leading global firms in the ICT, Pharma, MedTech, Software, Clean Tech, R&D, Financial Services and Advanced Manufacturing sectors, Ireland offers businesses the opportunity to release their growth potential. Ireland as an onshore, low-tax EU jurisdiction, with a pro-business environment, talented workforce and the necessary infrastructure to support profit-generating activities, offers certainty and stability for international investment and as such, continues to be ideally placed as a platform for multinationals doing business both in Europe and beyond. Eversheds Sutherland is the only all service law firm in Ireland with a truly global presence that can offer an internal seamless multi-jurisdictional tax advisory service to domestic and international clients. With 67 offices spanning 34 countries, including six key locations across the US, our lawyers can provide the local and global perspective for all your tax needs. To discuss the opportunities for growing your global presence in and from Ireland, contact our tax team. Alan Connell Partner and Head of Tax Group +353 1 6644 217 alanconnell@eversheds-sutherland.ie
eversheds-sutherland.ie
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6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT Francesca McDonagh was appointed Group CEO of Bank of Ireland in October 2017, the same year that she was awarded an OBE in the UK for Services to Banking. Established in 1783, Bank of Ireland is today one of the largest financial services groups in Ireland, with businesses across the globe. This year Aer Lingus partnered with Bank of Ireland to launch Aer Credit Card, which offers the convenience of a credit card with great travel rewards.
1 EMBRACE NEW OPPORTUNITIES I’ve lived in nine countries and, without a doubt, this has been one of the best things about my career. When I made my first move to Asia, it was daunting. However, each move allowed me to develop my career, learn new cultures and languages, eat new food and meet fascinating people. Whether it’s moving out of your comfort zone to a new city or considering a different career path, I would always encourage people to embrace new opportunities. 2 DIVERSITY IS IMPORTANT Diversity helps grow a business. That includes background, demographics, gender, sexuality, race and opinion. As CEO, I recognise that if we want to achieve our purpose – to enable customers, colleagues and communities to thrive – we must reflect the diversity of our customer base and the communities in which we live and work. For
example, Bank of Ireland has committed to increase the number of women in top roles: from the end of 2021, all new management and leadership appointments will follow a 50:50 gender ratio. 3 BUILD A GREAT COMPANY CULTURE Banks are amongst the least trusted businesses by the public and, when you are CEO of a bank, you have to take that really seriously. How do you start to fix this? For me it starts with building the best culture you can in your company. We need to make our companies great places to work – where our colleagues take accountability for their actions, where the right values inform everything they say and do, where we’re empowered to put customers first. Culture doesn’t change overnight. You have to invest in it, work hard at it, train for it. You have to show your colleagues and your customers you mean it.
4 LISTEN AND DEVELOP Asking for feedback is not easy, but I always advise people to do so. That’s how we progress and grow. This might mean uncomfortable conversations, but we all need to acknowledge how we need to improve. 5 GROW YOUR NETWORK I have seen first-hand how mentoring and support from colleagues is so powerful in terms of career and personal development. I often seek out people that I respect, to ask for guidance. People are very generous with their time and are genuinely flattered to be asked. 6 CHALLENGE YOURSELF I’m passionate about my career, and I love a new challenge. I always encourage people to put themselves forward for projects or roles where they may not be 100 per cent comfortable. It’s scary but also exhilarating, and it’s how we all develop.
FRANCESCA’S SMART CITY NEW YORK DESTINATION What I love about New York is that it is constantly evolving. There are timeless icons, such as The Met museum, left (metmuseum. org), which are worth visiting again and again. I’m always guaranteed to find something new – show, exhibit or restaurant – which keeps it refreshing. STAY Fitzpatrick Hotel Grand Central is in such a super location and it is right beside
the Bank of Ireland office in 2 Grand Central. John [Fitzpatrick] and his team are always so welcoming. fitzpatrickhotels.com EAT I always like to discover new places but two of my favourites include Gallagher’s Steakhouse, (gallaghersnysteakhouse.com) and Eleven Madison Park (elevenmadisonpark.com) – for a very special occasion.
Discover our collection of stylish, boutique hotels in the heart of Dublin city centre and our brand new hotel “The Mont� opening in July 2019.
lunch in
st y l e from
€6.95
s destination for Dublin’
early bird
2 courses from
delicious
€25.95
Just a hop, skip and a jump from Grafton Street
The restaurant at Fallon & Byrne is housed upstairs, where the light streams through tall windows into one of the city’s most handsome rooms. The season’s good stuff from land and sea is cooked with gentle respect for excellent ingredients. All served by cheerful sorts in a buzzy, relaxed atmosphere.
11-17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 • fallonandbyrne.com • +353 1 472 1000 • restaurant@fallonandbyrne.com
Shipping some of the world’s most exciting wines exclusively into Ireland.
Wine Spectator 2018
Wine Store
Sunday Business Post GOLD
STAR AWARD
Best Fine Wine Merchant (Dublin) 2017, 2018 & 2019
Wine Store ~ Wine Bar ~ Wine School
Wine Bar
“David Whelehan and his hughly talented staff are now offering a world class experience, one you will scarcely see matched outside of Berry Brothers and Rudd in London, Lavinia in Paris or Astor Wines in New York. A beyond-worthy continuing winner and a place Irish wine lovers should really cherish”. Tomás Clancy, Sunday Business Post, 6th January 2019
Whelehans Wines, The Silver Tassie, Loughlinstown, Dublin 18. D18VK37 t: (01) 901 1144 I w: whelehanswines.ie I e: sales@whelehanswines.ie
Best for Wine Lovers 2017 & 2018
Let us entertain you We’ve got loads of brilliant movies, TV shows and music for you to enjoy.
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Box office hits Settle in and enjoy some of the latest Hollywood blockbusters.
Our
top film choice
Action
PG13
124 mins
Captain Marvel The journey of Carol Danvers as she becomes one of the universe’s most powerful heroes. EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
Adventure
PG
96 mins
A Dog’s Way Home
A dog travels four hundred miles in search of her owner. Stars Ashley Judd, Jonah Hauer-King, Edward James Olmos EN FR DE IT ES
Drama
R
136 mins
A Star is Born
A musician helps a young singer find fame. Stars Lady Gaga, Bradley Cooper, Sam Elliott EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
Action
PG13
143 mins
Aquaman
Action
PG13
114 mins
Bumblebee
Action
PG13
130 mins
Creed II
A war between the worlds of ocean and land is on the horizon. Stars Jason Momoa, Amber Heard, Willem Dafoe
Charlie discovers Bumblebee, battle-scarred and broken. Stars Hailee Steinfeld, Jorge Lendeborg Jr, John Cena
Heavyweight Adonis Creed faces off against Viktor Drago. Stars Michael B Jordan, Tessa Thompson, Sylvester Stallone
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
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Action
R
120 mins
Biography
PG13
108 mins
Drama
PG13
129 mins
125
Comedy
PG13
130 mins
Family
PG
130 mins
Destroyer
Fighting with My Family
Glass
Green Book
Mary Poppins Returns
EN FR DE ES
EN ES CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR ES CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
A detective reconnects with people to make peace. Stars Nicole Kidman, Sebastian Stan, Tatiana Maslany
Drama
R
119 mins
The Favourite
Set in 18th century England with Queen Anne at the throne. Stars Olivia Colman, Rachel Weisz, Emma Stone EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
A story of a family who fight a little differently. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Lena Headey, Florence Pugh
Family
PG
120 mins
The Kid Who Would Be King A band of kids embark on a quest to thwart a Medieval menace. Stars Rebecca Ferguson, Louis Ashbourne Serkis EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
Tracking a disturbed man who has 24 personalities. Stars James McAvoy, Bruce Willis, Samuel L Jackson
Animation
PG
107 mins
Two men develop a bond while on the journey of a lifetime. Stars Linda Cardellini, Viggo Mortensen, Mahershala Ali
Crime
116 mins
R
Mary Poppins is back to help the Banks family find joy. Stars Emily Blunt, Lin-Manuel Miranda, Meryl Streep
Comedy
PG13
126 mins
The Lego Movie 2: The Second Part
The Mule
A war veteran turns drug mule for a Mexican cartel. Stars Bradley Cooper, Clint Eastwood, Manny Montana
The relationship between two men with differing backgrounds. Stars Kevin Hart, Bryan Cranston, Nicole Kidman
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE
Lego Duplo invaders threaten to wreck everything. Voiced by Chris Pratt, Elizabeth Banks, Will Arnett
KidZone
KidZone
The Upside
G
General
PG
Parental Guidance
PG13
Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13.
R
Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.
Available in EN English FR Biography
R
132 mins
Vice
Comedy
R
117 mins
What Men Want
The story of Dick Cheney, an unassuming Washington insider. Stars Christian Bale, Amy Adams, Steve Carell
A woman develops the ability to hear men’s thoughts. Stars Taraji P Henson, Tracy Morgan, Erykah Badu
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
KidZone
PG
104 mins
How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World
KidZone
PG
112 mins
Ralph Breaks The Internet: Wreck-It Ralph 2
Hiccup races against time to find ‘The Hidden World’. Voiced by Jay Baruchel, America Ferrera
Ralph and Vanellope are back to take on the internet. Voiced by John C Reilly, Sarah Silverman, Gal Gadot
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
Français
DE
Deutsch
IT
Italiano
ES
Español
PU
Portuguese CCEN Closed Caption English
ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS
English Subtitles
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All the classics PG13
Take a trip down movie memory lane with our great selection of classics.
Our animation film package will guarantee fun for all the family with classics including ‘Bambi’, ‘Peter Pan’ and ‘Beauty and the Beast’.
Marvel e Univers
Sit back and enjoy our actionpacked Marvel Studios package. Starring some of your favourite Super Heroes such as ‘Captain America’, ‘Iron Man’ and ‘Thor’.
PG13
96 mins
PG13
108 mins
PG13
104 mins
© 2019 Disney
PG13
140 mins
R
127 mins
121 mins
R
115 mins
Chef Stars Jon Favreau, Robert Downey Jr
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE
106 mins
PG
106 mins
PG
153 mins
Dunkirk Stars Fionn Whitehead, Barry Keoghan
East Side Sushi Stars Diana Elizabeth Torres, Yutaka Takeuchi
Empire of the Sun Stars Christian Bale, John Malkovich
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR
EN
PG13
© 2019 Marvel
R
August: Osage County Stars Meryl Streep
PG13
KidZone
146 mins
AI Artificial Intelligence Stars Haley Joel Osment
118 mins
R
98 mins
R
120 mins
Far From the Madding Crowd Stars Carey Mulligan
Horrible Bosses Stars Jason Bateman, Charlie Day
It’s Complicated Stars Meryl Streep, Steve Martin
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
PG13
103 mins
PG13
137 mins
PG
117 mins
Jailhouse Rock Stars Elvis Presley, Judy Tyler
Mamma Mia! Stars Meryl Streep, Pierce Brosnan
Mr Church Stars Eddie Murphy, Britt Robertson
Ready Player One Stars Olivia Cooke, Tye Sheridan
Sideways Stars Paul Giamatti, Thomas Haden Church
Singin’ in the Rain Stars Gene Kelly, Debbie Reynolds
The Beatles: Eight Days a Week Stars The Fab Four
The BFG Stars Mark Rylance, Ruby Barnhill
EN FR
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE ES IT
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE ES
EN FR IT ES
EN
EN FR DE ES
PG13
135 mins
PG13
154 mins
PG
104 mins
The Bridges of Madison County Stars Clint Eastwood
The Color Purple Stars Danny Glover, Whoopi Goldberg
The Greatest Showman Stars Hugh Jackman
EN FR DE IT ES
EN DE
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
PG13
119 mins
PG13
116 mins
PG
124 mins
PG13
153 mins
The Internship Stars Vince Vaughn, Owen Wilson
The Post Stars Meryl Streep, Tom Hanks
The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel Stars Maggie Smith
West Side Story Stars Natalie Wood, George Chakiris
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN DE
G
100 mins
Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory Stars Gene Wilder EN FR ES
Irish movies and shorts
PG13
9 mins
PG13
10 mins
PG13
6 mins
PG13
12 mins
PG13
86 mins
PG13
3 mins
PG13
97 mins
PG13
8 mins
Almost Home Stars Shannon Hurley, Judy Donovan
Blood of the Woods Stars Emmet Byrne
Connection Interrupted Stars Brendan Quinn
Dead Air Stars Michael Linehan, Jennifer Coote
Rosie Sarah Greene, Moe Dunford
The Barber Shop Stars Barry McEvoy, JordanLee McGrath
The Camino Voyage Stars Glen Hansard, Liam Holden
The Cobbler Stars James Heffernan, Eddie Heffernan
EN
EN
EN
EN
EN
EN
EN
EN
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TV time Catch up on an old favourite or discover a new show. Business CNBC Conversation Dame Ellen MacArthur speaks to CNBC’s Tania Bryer CNBC Conversation Karen Tso sits down with Federico Marchetti Secret Lives of the Super Rich Burn rubber in a rare $350K Ferrari Tech Transformers Taking a closer look at the future of technology The Edge What does the future hold when it comes to payment systems? The Score Discovering how the NBA is growing in Asia
Kidzone True Detective, S1, Ep 1–8 1980: Will and Julie, the children of feuding parents Tom and Lucy Purcell, go missing. 2015: Retired detective Wayne Hays (Mahershala Ali), who originally investigated the crime, is asked to look back on the unsolved case with a documentary producer.
Batman: The Brave and the Bold – Battle of the Superheroes! Batman must stop Superman from destroying his reputation Brewster the Rooster Brewster the Rooster and Maggie answer preschoolers’ questions! Giving Tales Classic fairy tales by Hans Christian Andersen Marvel’s Avengers Assemble Black Panther sneaks into the undersea kingdom of Atlantis Paw Patrol Six puppies are led by a 10-year-old boy named Ryder Peek Zoo Adventures to make children laugh, think, and learn Wabbit The hilarious and mischievous Bugs Bunny is back
Laugh out loud
Derry Girls, S1, Ep 1–6 A perfectly curated cast and raw writing drive ‘Derry Girls’ dark humour as we follow Erin, Orla, Clare, Michelle and James through teen life in 1990s Northern Ireland. ‘Derry Girls’ breaks new ground by tackling a difficult period in Northern Ireland’s history with comedic aplomb.
Bridget & Eamon An unhappily married 1980s Irish couple Derry Girls The life of 16-year-old girls during The Troubles It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia Five friends run an Irish bar in Philadelphia Modern Family Three families face trials and tribulations in comedic ways Silicon Valley An engineer tries to build his own company The Big Bang Theory The lives of a group of brilliant scientists The Middle The daily mishaps of a semi-dysfunctional family The Young Offenders Drama about two lovable rogues from Cork, Conor and Jock
Learn & discover
Sports
Explorer Phil Keoghan goes to an active volcano Genius by Stephen Hawking Professor Stephen Hawking challenges three ordinary people Great Lighthouses of Ireland The story of Ireland’s lighthouses and their importance Healthy Appetite Ireland’s top chefs create healthy versions of their dishes Man vs Puma Boone Smith gets up close and personal with pumas Martian Mega Rover Examining the journey of NASA’s Mars rover My Trans Life A look at the lives of five young transgender people Orla Tinsley: Warrior The life of Orla Tinsley The Irish Revolution The story of the Irish War of Independence Whiskey Business The Teeling Brothers seek to maintain family tradition
Dream Teams There are World Cup heroes galore in Germany’s Dream Team Homage Paying respects to the greats of the game National Icons An elite encounter between Ryan Giggs and Gareth Bale Tennis Stars Step inside the colourful world of tennis superstars The Challenge Learn why competitive Alpine skiing is an extreme sport The Shortlist The ultimate sports count down series
Music & arts Building Arnold Schwarzenegger What lies behind Arnold Schwarzenegger’s success story? Classic Albums: Queen – A Night At The Opera Behind the scenes of an LP Kygo: Live at the Hollywood Bowl Join Kygo as he prepares for a huge show in Hollywood Oceans Apart: Art and the Pacific with James Fox James Fox explores Southwest Pacific culture Seine Sessions Seine Sessions invites talented artists to jam Videofashion Designers Exploring the French house of Chanel
Real life America’s Wild Frontier America’s heartland, shaped by three rivers Cook, Eat, Burn Donal Skehan prepares healthy meals Donal’s Meals in Minutes Donal Skehan’s cooking hacks Greatest Gardens The best private gardens in Northern Ireland It’s a Park’s Life Behind-thescenes access to Phoenix Park Making It Rainbows, taco trucks and spaceships Monster Croc Wrangler Matt Wright responds to a call about a legendary monster croc Tracks and Trails Anna Geary, former Cork captain, explores the River Bann Travel Man Richard takes comedian Rhod Gilbert on a tour of Miami Vogue Williams Investigates Vogue shines a light on a variety of online issues
Viral 101 Facts 101 Facts is a listicle channel with a twist Alltime 10s Alltime10s is here to tell you 10 FBI Techniques HelloItsAmy Videos from British YouTuber Amie Johnson jacksepticeye Videos from Irish gaming YouTuber jacksepticeye TheMakeupChair Sinéad Cady is an Irish MUA who runs TheMakeupChair TingTing ASMR Videos to help you relax and sleep
Well being Chasing Longevity Investigating the factors impacting longevity Chasing Sleep A medical series examining sleeping habits Style for Women Learn the secrets of style with this series of shorts Supershoppers The scoop on the biggest brands and retailers The Food Files Exploring the health benefits and risks of our favourite foods You Can Do Better Imparting tips that every adult should know
Wish you were here Introducing Austria A Lonely Planet Guide Introducing Paris A Lonely Planet Guide Introducing Singapore A Lonely Planet Guide Introducing Washington DC A Lonely Planet Guide Just Back from Amsterdam and Beyond Lonely Planet’s Amanda McAdams brings tips from the Netherlands Why Londoners Love Gin The story of Londoners’ penchant for Mother's Ruin
MONAGHAN’S
CASHMERE STORE Established 1960
“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide
Tom & Suzanne Monaghan
A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom and Suzanne Monaghan in their store at 21 South Anne Street. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere selling a wide range of classic sweaters in the latest styles and colours for both men and women. As they celebrate 59 years Tom and Suzanne would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents (terms and conditions apply)
M Monaghans Cashmere, 21 South Anne Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451
www.monaghanscashmere.ie
A place of belonging. We are Rathdown School, a leading day and boarding school located in Dublin for girls aged 3 to 18 years. We offer 7-day on-campus boarding from age 11 and we welcome girls of all academic abilities. Our small size allows for a personal level of care and support. We focus on inspiring teaching to deliver excellent academic results while encouraging intellectual curiosity, critical thinking, creativity and collaboration among our students.
To find out more and arrange to visit Telephone: +353 1 285 3133 Email: registrar@rathdownschool.ie www.rathdownschool.ie
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Binge watching Because there’s no better time for a binge watch. Take a look at our latest boxsets.
Doctor Who Season 11 PG Throughout this series the Doctor and the gang embark on exciting adventures throughout space and time. Among their travels, they visit Alabama in 1955, meeting Rosa Parks, go to Punjab in the year 1947; and to Lancashire in 1612, getting involved in a witch trial.
Game of Thrones Season 1 R
The Handmaid’s Tale Season 2 R
Experience the first season of this visionary HBO series set in a mythical world whose inhabitants vie for control of the Iron Throne. But in a land where seasons can last a lifetime, winter is coming.
The Emmy-winning drama series returns with a second season shaped by Offred’s pregnancy and her ongoing fight to free her future child from the dystopian horrors of Gilead.
Love/Hate Season 1 R
The Marvelous Mrs Maisel Season 1 PG13
The story of an organised crime scene of Dublin is revealed, centred on Darren, who wants to stay out of trouble but ends up returning to his old habits and his old gang.
Miriam ‘Midge’ Maisel has everything she’s ever wanted – the perfect husband, two kids, and an elegant Upper West Side apartment. But her perfect life suddenly takes an unexpected turn forever.
Supernatural Season 13 PG13
The Sinner Season 2 R
Lucifer returns with surprising news: the devil is expecting a child. Now, Sam and Dean must tackle this complex situation, dealing with a creature of extraordinary powers.
Detective Harry Ambrose goes back to his hometown to investigate the murder of a couple by their 11-year-old son. As he tries to figure out why, it becomes clear that the town is hiding some secrets.
The Flash Season 4 PG13 With The Flash voluntarily in prison, Iris leads a discouraged Team Flash in protecting Central City. However, a new villain threatens to destroy the city if the Flash doesn’t fight him.
True Detective Season 3 R Retired detective Wayne Hays, who originally investigated a crime, is asked to look back on the twists of the unsolved case with a true-crime documentary producer.
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Audio Relax to your favourite tunes, make a playlist or delve into a new podcast.
Classical
Kidzone
The Blue of the Night RTÉ lyric fm Sound Out Ian McGlynn, RTÉ Lyric fm
CAKE Culture and Arts for Kids and Everyone
Easy listening An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels
Indie Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM
Irish Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists Sinéad ar Bord Traditional and contemporary tracks in the Irish language
Pop Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs Gold in the Sky Karl Tsigdinos, RTÉ Gold Late Date RTÉ Radio 1’s Late Date with Cathal Murray The Hotmix Rebecca Shekleton, 98FM Tracy Clifford RTÉ 2FM
Rock Marty Miller Radio Nova
Talk Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One We offer two documentaries on this flight. The first tells the story of Van Morrison’s seminal album from 1968, ‘Astral Weeks’; the second, of Kildare man Michael Roe, who was one of the fastest racing car drivers in the world during the 1980s.
Lennon Stella YouTube sensation Lennon Stella has arrived with her debut EP titled ‘Love, Me’, a collection of emotionally intelligent songs bundled together in bubbly pop wrapping. Tracks such as ‘Fortress’ excellently display Stella’s husky vocals while also providing a sense of empowerment.
LCD Soundsystem ‘Electric Lady Sessions’ highlights the long-standing chemistry between this hugely talented band of musicians, as steered by James Murphy. His production sounds exceptional, with tracks including ‘Tonite’ and ‘Call the Police’ capturing the ensemble's wizardry.
Podcast Erin’s Isle A Castle, A Manor House and Wool Erin’s Isle Yoga, Weaving and the Flock on the Dock Erin’s Isle Magnificent Machines and Talking Donkeys Erin’s Isle Now We’re Cookin’ Erin’s Isle Galway Cathedral and Michael Vignoles
Podcast: Erin’s Isle Featuring a series of podcasts about Ireland. Learn about the country’s ageless crafts and meet its lovely people.
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Backstreet Boys Backstreet's back, alright! Even though they’ve been around since 1993, ‘DNA’ is only their tenth studio album and a continuation of their impressive vocal gymnastics over a backdrop of R&B, country and funk grooves.
All-time favourites
Country
Jazz
Pop
KidZone
Bill Withers +‘Justments
Dolly Parton Dumplin’ Kane Brown Experiment Mitchell Tenpenny Telling All My Secrets Pistol Annies Interstate Gospel Ryan Hurd To a T Ward Thomas Restless Mindseat
Branford Marsalis Quartet The Secret Between the Shadow and the Soul Charles Mingus Columbia Jazz Profile Chet Baker She Was Too Good to Me Rebekka Bakken Things You Leave Behind Thelonious Monk Underground Various Artists Classic Branford Marsalis
Backstreet Boys DNA Lennon Stella Love, Me Little Mix LM5 Olly Murs You Know I Know Tom Odell Jubilee Road Zayn Icarus Falls
Charles Grean The Unicorn and Other Favorites for Growing Boys and Girls Charles Grean Songs from Walt Disney's ‘Jungle Book’ Dora The Explorer We Did It! Dora’s Greatest Hits Spongebob Squarepants Spongebob’s Greatest Hits The Backyardigans The Backyardigans The Make Believe Players Little Red Riding Hood and Other Best-Loved Fairytales
Bob Dylan The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan Leonard Cohen Songs of Love and Hate Mariah Carey Mariah Carey Robert Johnson King of the Delta Blues Singers The Five Stairsteps The First Family of Soul: The Best of the Five Stairsteps
Alternative First Aid Kit Tender Offerings Kasabian Empire LCD Soundsystem Electric Lady Sessions St Lucia Hyperion The Neighbourhood The Neighbourhood Winnetka Bowling League Winnetka Bowling League
Classical Igor Levit Life Lang Lang Piano Magic Olga Peretyatko Mozart+ Roman Rofalski The Kapustin Project Teodor Currentzis Mahler: Symphony No 6 The Piano Guys Limitless
Electro Alan Walker Different World Groove Armada Groove Armada Greatest Hits LCD Soundsystem American Dream Lost Frequencies Less is More Saint Etienne Smash The System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Sick Boy
Irish Christy Moore Listen Damien Dempsey Union Kodaline Politics of Living Shane Hennessey Marrakech Triona Warrior Van Morrison The Healing Game
Metal Arch Enemy Covered in Blood At The Gates To Drink from the Night Itself Krisiun Scourge of the Enthroned Ozzy Osbourne No More Tears In Flames Come Clarity Unearth Extinction(S)
Opera Anita Rachvelishvili Anita Christian Gerhaher Frage Howard Arman Rossini: Stabat Mater Maarten Engeltjes Forgotten Arias Pretty Yende Dreams Regula Mühlemann Cleopatra – Baroque Arias
R ’n’ B Earth, Wind & Fire Powerlight HER I Used to Know Her: Part 2 Khalid Suncity Mariah Carey Caution Moss Kena One + One Nao Saturn
Rock Bring Me The Horizon Amo Bruce Springsteen Springsteen on Broadway Nothing But Thieves What Did You Think When You Made Me This Way? The Unlikely Candidates Danger to Myself The Vaccines Combat Sports Velvet Revolver Contraband
More space in the middle
With our new premium short-haul travel experience you get more space to work or relax because we’ll always leave the middle seat free. And with lounge access, Fast Track security and priority boarding you’ll breeze through the airport. Arrive at your best with AerSpace. Launching September 1st, available to book now. Subject to conditions & availability.
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Your comfort and safety Your comfort and safety is our number one priority at all times. Our crew are on hand to look after you and any requirements you may having during your flight. We do ask that we have your attention during our safety announcements. Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs. Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.
Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat with our cabin crew. Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.
We ask for your attention during the safety demonstration by our cabin crew before take-off. We also recommend that you familiarise yourself with the safety card in the seat pocket in front of you.
We have a strict no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. You cannot smoke in any part of the cabin.
General safety tips for your flight today • Do pay attention to any instructions given to you by our cabin crew. • Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment. • It is illegal to consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest, including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique. • Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.
Guest with wheelchair requirements
Assistance contact details
• Any behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.
If you or a guest you’re flying with requires a wheelchair to reach or depart the plane, we’re here to help.
specialassistance@aerlingus.com
Use of photography on board today
Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays
• You’re very welcome to take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.
Simply get in touch with us at least 48 hours in advance of your trip, let us know your booking reference number and we’ll take care of this for you.
UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222
However: • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board. • Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.
See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes
Guided Factory Tours Daily Waterford Brand & Visitor Experience
On social media:
www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com Phone: +353 (0) 51 317000
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Your comfort and safety Your portable electronic devices You’re very welcome to use portable electronic equipment on this flight, but to help keep you safe we ask that you follow our guidelines below.
Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.
Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, minidisk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before take-off. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.
Switch your device to flight mode or the flight safe setting during taxi, take-off and landing. If you’d like to use your phone during your flight, switch it to flight safe mode. If your device doesn’t have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing, when the cabin crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are welcome to use your phone – provided it’s within easy reach. It’s important that you stay seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew when we land.
Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.
GO ON AN IRISH HISTORICAL ADVENTURE YOU’LL NEVER FORGET!
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See the city like a local. The DoDublin Card includes : • • • • • •
Direct Airlink Transfer Hop on Hop off City Tour Dublin Bus Travel FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum Entry 3 Day Card for €35
Buy Tickets at : Bus & Travel Information Desk (T1 Arrivals Hall) or Airlink Bus Stop (T1 & T2)
Dublin’s Best Sightseeing & Travel Pass
Airlink Express Hop on Hop off Dublin Bus
dodublin.ie
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Flight connections Dublin and London Heathrow Airports Flight connections at Dublin Airport
Flight connections at T2 London Heathrow On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.
YES
Follow signs for Flight Connections
Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections
NO
Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.
USA
All other destinations
USA
Follow signs for US Preclearance
GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate
Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance
Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status
Which terminal are you flying from? For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.
Where are you flying to today?
Are your bags checked through to your final destination?
Passport Control and Security Screening
Geataí Gates
Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security. Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.
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Hand Baggage search
Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.
Gate Information Screens
Follow signs for Flight Connections
Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections
Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.
AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.
Departure gate Enjoy free Wi-Fi in Dublin Airport
The full range is available from stockists including
Arnotts, Blarney Woollen Mills, Brown Thomas, House of Fraser, House of Ireland & The Kilkenny Shop
waterfordvisitorcentre.com waterford.eu
The Green, Garristown, Co. Dublin Beautiful Location Convenient to Airport • Last remaining house in Exclusive Development of 4 New Homes • 5 bedrooms • Detached Garage • 215 sq m (2,314 sq ft) • Landscaped site - 0.30 acres • Luxury Turnkey finish ready to move into • 20km (12 miles) from Dublin Airport
Asking Price: €625,000 Contact: Michael Brennan michael@brennantownandcountry.ie
info@brennantownandcountry.ie | +353 1 556 3635 brennantownandcountry.ie
PSRA Licence No: 003811
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INFLIGHT
Explore the world with us
Anchorage Juneau
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Edmonton Saskatoon Vanc Bel
Victoria
Seattle
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Portland
Regina
Eugene
Winnipeg
Vancouver Bellingham
Victoria
Wenatchee
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Thunder Bay
Kalispell Spokane Pullman
Pasco
Great Falls Belgrade
Portland
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Ottawa Traverse
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Milwaukee Madison
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Omaha
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Fort Wayne Akron Canton
Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego
Oklahoma City
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Dallas (Fort Worth)
San Antonio
Houston
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Knoxville
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New York JFK
Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard
Philadelphia
Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham
Charlotte Columbia
Charleston
El Paso Austin
Newark
Boston Hyannis
Washington (National)
Lexington
Little Rock Phoenix
Providence
Washington (Dulles)
Nashville
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Hartford Pittsburgh
Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore Cincinnati
Portland ME
Albany
Rochester
Dayton
Indianapolis
Springfield Las Vegas
Buffalo
Cleveland
Louisville
Wichita
San Francisco
Syracuse
Detroit
St Louis
Halifax
Burlington
Toronto
Grand Rapids
Chicago
Des Moines
Denver
Moncton Fredericton
Montreal
Billings
Medford
Santa Rosa
Duluth
Minneapolis–St Paul
Redmond Eugene
St. John’s
Quebec Fargo
Walla Walla
Yakima
Missoula
New Orleans
Tallahassee Pensacola
Savannah
Jacksonville Gainesville
Orlando Tampa Fort Myers
West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale
Miami Honolulu Kahului
Key West
Honolulu Kahului
San Juan Aguadilla Ponce
INFLIGHT
We fly to more than 100 destinations across the US, Canada, Europe, the UK and Ireland. We’ve also got great partnerships with JetBlue, British Airways and many more airlines to connect you to even more destinations. Where’s next on your travel wishlist?
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Save time with US Preclearance You’ll clear US immigration in Dublin or Shannon Airport before you board your flight with us to the US. That means arriving in the US as a domestic passenger and avoiding those immigration queues.
Aer Lingus European and North American network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)
Aberdeen Glasgow
Donegal
Newcastle
Belfast
Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester
Isle of Man
Knock
Dublin
Shannon Kerry
Edinburgh
Birmingham
Cork
Cardiff Newquay
London London City London Southend Heathrow
Bristol Exeter
Hamburg Amsterdam
Düsseldorf
London Gatwick
Southampton
Berlin
Brussels Prague
Frankfurt
Jersey
Paris Vienna
Munich
Rennes
Budapest
Zurich
Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux
Toulouse
Santiago de Compostela
Bilbao
Montpellier Perpignan
Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa
Split
Marseille
Bourgas
Dubrovnik Rome
Barcelona
Naples
Madrid Corfu
Palma
Lisbon Alicante Malaga
Athens Catania
Faro
Tenerife Tenerife
Lanzarote Lanzarote Fuerteventura Fuerteventura
Gran Canaria Gran Canaria
Route map correct at time of print. Destinations and schedules subject to change.
Izmir
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INFLIGHT
Connections to Middle East & Australasia
Dublin
London Heathrow
Dubai Abu Dhabi
Sydney
Melbourne
You can book flights from Dublin to the Middle East and Australia at aerlingus.com with our codeshare partners, British Airways and Etihad Airways.
Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)
U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997
Excellent track record representing: • • • • •
Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers
• • • •
Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science
For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert
New York Office: T: 212-965-1148
Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.
Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994
MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION
Ballyliffin Golf Club Errigal Mountain Fanad Lighthouse With breathtaking scenery, golden beaches, rugged islands, outdoor adventure, the Gaeltacht and a beautiful array of activities, Donegal - is an absolute essential, at any time of year. Malin Head marks the most northerly point of the entire island of Ireland; the start of your Wild Atlantic Way adventure. The most recent Star Wars film: Episode VIII was filmed on the rolling hills of the Inishowen Peninsula and Ballyliffin Golf Club proudly hosted the Irish Open last summer. Inishowen sets the tone for the spirit of the county – independent, untamed and exciting, three quarters of its border formed by the Atlantic Ocean. National Geographic Traveller named Donegal as the Coolest Place on the Planet for 2017 and for good reason… Donegal will take you to a magical adventure into a region that is so special. Culture springs to life around every corner - ancient castles, the spectacular Sliabh Liag Cliffs – one of the highest in Europe, rugged islands and coastlines, the friendliest natives and so much to see and do makes for an unforgettable adventure.
Fly to Donegal Airport - No. 1 Most Scenic Airport Landing in the world for 2019, tee off at some of the world’s most renowned golf courses, sample delicious locally produced food and don’t forget throwing yourself into one of Donegal’s festivals. With a coastline of 1,134km Donegal is the perfect place for those looking for an outdoor, action packed holiday - wind surfing, kayaking, sea stack climbing, cycling and walking are becoming ever popular with exciting guided destinations. Donegal really is a land of great diversity, gentle rolling farmland provide a stark contrast to the dramatic, rugged coastline.... Donegal has it all! There has never been a better time to plan your visit: www.govisitdonegal.com
Glenveagh National Park
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INFLIGHT
Let’s get you connected Keep chatting, sharing and discovering Connect to our inflight Wi-Fi 1 Turn on your device and connect to Aer_Lingus_WiFi on our A330 aircraft
2 Launch your browser, click ‘Buy Internet Access’ and purchase a plan Choose from the following plans
AerSocial €6.95 | $7.95 Up to 50MB
AerSurf €13.95 | $15.95 Up to 120MB The smart choice
AerMax €29.95 | $32.95 Up to 270MB
3 Enter a username and password and start browsing A330 aircraft only.
Connect to our Mobile Network 1 Turn on your device and switch off flight-safe mode If the Aeromobile Network doesn’t connect straight away, select it via your Network settings
2 Once you’re connected, you’ll receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile
MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DAWSON STREET DUBLIN 2
MARCO PIERRE WHITE COURTYARD BAR & GRILL DONNYBROOK DUBLIN 4
www.marcopierrewhite.ie
✹▲❙❙ ❋ ✫❙❋ ✬❊ ❙ ✬ ❊❖■
Welcome to your world -class airline We’re so proud of our 4-star Skytrax rating. Being celebrated on the world stage for our consistent quality and excellence in guest experience never gets old. We hope you enjoy your ight with us today.
DUBLIN EXCLUSIVE
Cocktails from ¤7.95
GLENDALOUGH POITÍN € 6.95 Poitín is Ireland's historic predecessor to whiskey. It can be traced as far back as 584AD in the monastic settlements of Glendalough.
Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 HARDROCK.COM
E R ’ U YO
N O C A ZY! B A Me CR
Bacon Crusted Ribs
Fleet Street • Stephen’s Green • Blanchardstown Dundrum • Swords • Liffey Valley
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BOUTIQUE
TOP PICKS For the low-maintenance traveller, our summertime selection features these clever multi-tasking products from Boutique magazine.
PERRICONE MD NO MAKEUP FOUNDATION €43 Like its name suggests, this foundation creates a flawless, no makeup look, an even skin tone and a natural, dewy finish. A foundation and hydration boost in one, it’s the ideal travel companion. MORGAN & OATES PEACOCK PINK SILK SARONG €65 Beach cover-up, bohemian bandeau, or halter top? You decide. Pink and chic, this savvy sarong can be worn in a variety of ways.
HIPPIE CHIC BOHO SHINE AUBREY WATCH AND BRACELET SET €26 This watch and bracelet duo is a summer must. A braid of genuine leather, oak-like beads, and golden charms, this boho accessory is made for the world wanderer.
NUXE HUILE PRODIGIEUSE €26 This multipurpose oil is all you need to refresh and rejuvenate after a long-haul flight. A travel must-have, it nourishes, repairs and beautifies skin and hair.
EGYPTIAN MAGIC ALL PURPOSE SKIN CREAM €30 Travel light by packing this cruelty-free, magical cream enriched with soothing honey, beeswax and olive oil. It can be used as a moisturiser, eye gel, hair masque, frizz-tamer, burn reliever, and baby cream.
Historic O’Neill’s Pub & Kitchen
FAMOUS MOLLY MALONE STATUE OPPOSITE O’NEILL’S O’’NEILL
Conveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. • Traditional Irish Music and Dancers 7 nights-a-week, No Charge • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts • HD TV Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games
• Heated Roof Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area with TV Screens so you wont miss the winning goal • Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers
For over 175 years everyone has enjoyed a warm Irish Welcome in The Temple Bar.
Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.
Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland
Lovers of whiskey have enjoyed Irelands largest whiskey collection, complimented with live Irish music sessions daily at the friendliest spot in Dublin.
Opposing fans enjoying the game on one of O’Neill’s big screens
M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656. www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm / Fri: 8.00am-12.30am / Sat: 8.00am-12.30am / Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm
Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin
2w0in1ne7r
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A FINE VINTAGE
WINGS OF DESIRE Summer, 1958, the distinctive Lockheed L-1049E Super Constellation was Ireland’s aeroplane of the moment, but not for long.
T
his photograph of a Lockheed L-1049E Super Constellation was taken on the north apron at Dublin Airport in the summer of 1958. Three Super Constellations had been leased from the US airline Seaboard & Western Airlines and were staffed with Irish cabin crew. Earlier in the year, in April, Aerlínte Éireann (a sister company of Aer Lingus) had operated the company’s first transatlantic service from Shannon to New York. This particular Super Constellation (Brigid) was not the one (Padraig) used on the inaugural flight on April
28 – Brigid started flying in June 1958 and operated the last Super Constellation flight in December 1960. Brigid now exists as a museum exhibit at the Air Mobility Command Museum at Dover Air Force Base, in Delaware, where it represents a military C-121C Super Constellation. Padraig was withdrawn from service in 1970. Come September 1958, the jet age was thrust upon Ireland, and indeed Europe, with the arrival Pan Am’s first Boeing 707, the very first jetliner to touch down on European soil at Shannon Airport.
COLLECT 1,500 AVIOS ON YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE Book your car hire with Avis by 30 June 2019 and you’ll collect 1,000 bonus Avios for rentals between 30 May and 12 July 2019*. That’s in addition to the minimum 500 Avios you’ll receive as standard on every rental. What’s more, as an AerClub member you are entitled to a free additional driver. DISCOVERY HAS NEVER B E E N S O R E WA R D I N G . W W W.C A R S . A E R L I N G U S .CO M
* For reservations of 2 days or more, car group C and above. For full terms and conditions visit www.cars.aerlingus.com
STAY CONNECTED ONBOARD TODAY
Surf while you fly with our onboard mobile and Wi-Fi networks MOBILE NETWORK
Use your phone as you would on the ground*
WI-FI NETWORK (FROM €6.95)
AER SOCIAL 50MB
AER SURF 120MB
AER MAX 270MB
Stay social with friends & family
Perfect for web browsing
Stay connected for longer
FOR FULL DETAILS ON HOW TO CONNECT GO TO PAGE 146 IN YOUR CARA MAGAZINE *Roaming charges will apply
Services available on A330 only