Cara December/January 2020

ARTS & GRAFT Rising actor Moe Dunford

GOOD VIBRATIONS Yogic calm in coastal Clare

BRUSSELS SPROUTING Time is ripe in the Belgian city

CONTENTS

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

CHECK IN

4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news and announcements 8 ARRIVALS New entries at Dublin’s T2 13 CHECK IN ‘Tis the season to be jolly – and enjoy top-class exhibitions, eats and activities 26 DETOURIST Eoin Higgins loiters with intent around the multifaceted Glasnevin, Dublin 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s scintillating reads, audio, events and travel inspiration 32 TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Irish rover Hector Ó hEochagáin shares his favourite American road trips 34 WEEKENDER A Longford Center Parcs double whammy for families and spa fiends

FEATURES

38 READY STEADY MOE Rising actor Moe Dunford in conversation with Tony Clayton-Lea 44 HIP-HOP HIBERNIA Tony Clayton-Lea meets Ireland’s rebel emcees with a cause 54 REST-LAID PLANS Conor Creighton soothes his chakras at the Cliffs of Moher Retreat 64 BRIGHT ISLES Lucy White island-hops around southwest Florida 82 BEYOND THE GRAND PLACE Bridget Hourican’s Brussels hotlist 92 WHITE MAGIC Photographer Joe Laverty’s snowcapped travelogue

REGULARS

77 10 SNOW SPOTS Catherine Murphy slopes into the finest winter wonderlands 101 5 IRISH INDULGENCES Nicola Brady’s luxurious layovers 106 48 HOURS IN MÁLAGA Amanda Cassidy’s Costa del Loll 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info, entertainment and retail 152 A FINE VINTAGE Another dip into the Aer Lingus photographic archives

BUSINESS

109 BUSINESS & LIFE Fionn Davenport’s best bites of the Big Apple 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Bling of steel – a glimpse into the world of jeweller and gemologist Gerry Appleby 118 TOP OF THE LAKE Shayna Sappington’s new hotels edit 120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT How Lottie Dolls’ mastermind, Ian Harkin, captured the toys market

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WELCOME ABOARD

Twenty-nineteen has been a cracker at Aer Lingus, with plenty of adventures and innovations to look forward to in 2020.

W

elcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly with us today. Twenty-nineteen has been a transformative time for Aer Lingus.

At the beginning of the year, we unveiled our refreshed brand identity, to a positive response. Our guests agree our new look reflects Aer Lingus’ position as a modern, contemporary and innovative Irish brand, and it has been exciting to see the new livery rolled out to more and more of our fleet throughout the year.

This year we saw three brand new NEO A321LR aircraft join our fleet and begin service across the Atlantic and also to Europe. The aircraft, operating out of both Dublin and Shannon, bring significant benefits to guests.

They are more fuel efficient, allowing us to offer better value in reduced fares. They are also significantly more environmentally-friendly, with lower carbon emissions and reduced engine noise, as we affirm our commitment to sustainability and the environment. Meanwhile, mood lighting has been introduced across our fleet, enhancing your overall comfort.

Over the course of the year we’ve introduced new innovations and products.

Our new Aer Credit Card, developed in partnership with Bank of Ireland, offers the convenience of a credit card with great travel rewards. ‘Pay with Avios’ – an enhancement to our AerClub loyalty programme, enabling AerClub members to spend Avios when booking flights on aerlingus.com and in the Aer Lingus app – has saved members €3m since it launched earlier in the year. As more and more guests use their mobile phones to access Aer Lingus services, such as booking flights and

checking in, usage of the Aer Lingus mobile app has increased by 50 per cent in the last year, while the addition of Apple Pay offers a seamless and secure payment option. In September we introduced a new fare option: AerSpace, our premium travel experience, which allows short-haul guests to reserve seating on the first row, leaving the middle seat free to allow for more workspace or to simply relax, as they fly to our most popular routes across the UK and Europe.

In August we expanded our network, launching our new Minneapolis-St Paul service – Aer Lingus’ 16th North Atlantic route – as well as new services to Dubrovnik and Nice from Cork, enabling even more connectivity.

We now look forward to 2020, which opens up even greater capacity on our transatlantic network and brings four new European destinations into our schedule. Next summer we’ll commence direct flights from Shannon to Paris and Barcelona, plus two new Italian destinations, Brindisi and Sardinia, from Dublin.

Last but not least, in the New Year we will unveil our new uniforms, which will usher in a new era for our cabin crew members, 20 years after the last revamp. Renowned Irish designer, Louise Kennedy, is at the helm again and we hope you like our new look as much as we do.

See our next issue for a behind-the-scenes look at the creative process.

Thank you for choosing to fly with us today, have a very happy Christmas and we look forward to bringing you more adventures and innovations in 2020.

FOREVER POINTS If you’re considering buying a loved one a proper bauble: AerClub members will earn 2,000 bonus Avios with every purchase of diamond jewellery at Appleby Jewellers before January 31, 2020.

SUPER SAVER ‘Pay with Avios’ has seen AerClub members save €3m this year, using Avios to pay for flights, making an average saving of €52. Sign up at aerlingus.com/aerclub.

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.

SUMMER ESCAPES Summer 2020 is set to sizzle, as Aer Lingus has announced new routes to Paris and Barcelona from Shannon, and Brindisi and Sardinia from Dublin.

EDITORIAL

EDITOR Lucy White DEPUTY EDITOR Eoin Higgins EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Shayna Sappington SUB-EDITOR Sheila Wayman CONTRIBUTORS Nicola Brady, Amanda Cassidy, Fionn Davenport, Tony Clayton-Lea, Brian Conway, Conor Creighton, Lizzie Gore-Grimes, Eoin Greally, Bridget Hourican, Tristan Hutchinson, Matt Marriott, Catherine Murphy, Jen Quinn, Kyle Tunney, Elly Walton

ART

ACTING ART DIRECTOR Julie Horton CREATIVE DIRECTOR Bill O’Sullivan

ADVERTISING

ADVERTISING MANAGER Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie ADVERTISING COPY CONTACT Derek Skehan, +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie

ADMINISTRATION

FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Brett Walker CREDIT CONTROLLER Angela Bennett CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Clodagh Edwards GROUP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lizzie Gore-Grimes GROUP CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Melanie Morris GROUP EDITOR AT LARGE Laura George EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Ann Reihill

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

CHAIRMAN Laura George DIRECTORS Eoin Magee, Patrick Dillon Malone, Clodagh Edwards, Melanie Morris, Robert Power

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Media.

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Originally from small-town Australia, photographer Carina Okula has spent the last 18 years living in Paris: long enough to have become a connoisseur of baguettes, but not to lose her accent from Down Under, or her taste for Vegemite. Besides exploring Gallic villages and landscapes for her print clients, she has previously contributed to Cara features on Paris and Nice. In this issue, Carina ventured north across the Belgium border to Brussels, capturing images of museums for Beyond the Grand Place, a feature on page 82 by Bridget Hourican, a one-time resident.

Originally from Co Tyrone, Belfast-based photographer Joe Laverty specialises in architectural and portrait photography, and has been published in Dezeen, Wallpaper, Architects Journal, Irish Times and The Guardian. In his ‘spare’ time, he’s the photo editor for Freckle, a Northern Irelandfocused magazine. He also recently started ‘whisper-project’, filming some of Ireland’s best emerging musicians performing in forgotten spaces. And in a departure from the clean lines of European buildings, Joe shares some of his crisp, snow-filled captures on page 92.

© 2019 Image Media Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Media Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Media Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Media Ltd.

ON THE COVER

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IMAGE Media Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie.

ARTS & GRAFT Rising actor Moe Dunford

GOOD VIBRATIONS Yogic calm in coastal Clare

BRUSSELS SPROUTING Time is ripe in the Belgian city

Moe Dunford was photographed by Conor Clinch at the National Gallery of Ireland, Dublin, assisted by Eoin Greally. Styling by Brian Conway and grooming by Jen Quinn.

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+44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

Conor Clinch is an Irish-born photographer based in London. Having established himself in Ireland at a young age, he made his move across the water in 2014 – where he was headhunted by none other than Rankin, who became an early-career mentor. Conor has since firmly established himself as one of Ireland’s top creative exports and works regularly for some of the world’s biggest fashion brands and publishers, including adidas, Topshop, GQ and Tatler. For his Cara debut, he photographed the Irish actor Moe Dunford for the front cover – turn to page 38 for more from the shoot.

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CEO Clare Broadbent BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Christina da Silva COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Justine Daly CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stuart Purcell FINANCE DIRECTOR Jane Moffett STRATEGY & BUSINESS DIRECTOR Ann Hartland

CONTRIBUTORS

WELCOME TO OUR NEW ISSUE! WE ARE ALL YOURS. FEEL FREE TO TAKE THIS MAGAZINE AWAY FOR YOUR ONWARD JOURNEY. WE WOULD ALSO LOVE YOUR FEEDBACK AND TRAVEL PHOTOS VIA TWITTER @CARAMAGAZINE.

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ARRIVALS

‘Tis the season at Dublin’s T2, where merry travellers abound.

WHO? Eryn Schneider and Matt Olson FLYING IN FROM …

Chicago ERYN SAYS … We are so excited to be here for 12 days on a cycling trip. We’re going to start in Bunratty, then continue along the west coast.

WHO? Carol and Liam Wrigley FLYING IN FROM … Seattle LIAM SAYS … I’ve been studying in Seattle and am visiting home for the holidays. Carol is taking me to get what I’ve missed most: a Denny breakfast.

WHO? Melissa McKechnie and Laura Hartley FLYING IN FROM … Edinburgh LAURA SAYS … We’re newlyweds from Canada, here on honeymoon. Our goal is to traverse the town by foot – first stops: the Guinness Storehouse and Jameson Distillery.

WHO? Philip McReynold FLYING IN FROM … San Francisco PHILIP SAYS …

I enrolled at an Irish language school for a few weeks, with my wife joining me later.

We’re eager to practice with the locals!

WHO? Brian and Marie O’Brien FLYING IN FROM … San Francisco BRIAN SAYS …

I am visiting home for two weeks to see my family. Marie, my sister, came to pick me up from the airport.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN & WORDS BY SHAYNA SAPPINGTON

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Enchanted lights at Kildare Village

Enchanted Lights at Kildare Village Experience the magic of Kildare Village this winter, as the lights illuminate the Village and dance across the buildings. Be awestruck as you create your own pattern of light that swirls and spreads across an enchanted field of light with the mere touch of your hand.

This complimentary experience takes place daily from 4pm. Plan your visit with family and friends to experience Enchanted Lights and make magical memories together that you will treasure forever.

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As Ireland’s first Wildlife Estate, it stands to reason that this haven so close to the city is a wonderful location to be close to nature. A stealthy visitor may spot an elusive kingfisher along the riverside walks or a red squirrel in the arboretum. It’s no surprise that Blarney’s gardens are the most visited in Ireland.

There is something for everyone, from the amateur gardener to the seasoned plantsman or the family out to explore.

Follow the map to find the historic and magical Rock Close with it’s Wishing Steps and Witch’s Kitchen; or the deadly Poison Garden, the Jurassic Fern Garden or the hidden Himalayan Valley.

Visiting gardens just got so much more exciting!

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PALAIS GARNIER, PARIS, FRANCE, 1986 © MANFRED THIERRY MUGLER, COURTESY POLKA GALERIE

EAT | READ | GO

HEIGHT COUTURE Fashion and beauty polymath Thierry Mugler is always full of surprises and his debut photographic exhibition at Paris’ Polka Galerie, Manfred Thierry Mugler, Photographer, is a jawdropper. This glamorous edit features supermodels in outlandish aerial locations: posing atop New York’s Chrysler Building, within the grip of a giant T-Rex in California, poised beside golden eagles at Paris’ Palais Garnier and gilded in the Sahara desert. Mugler says the collection depicts “a reality that can be banal from a poetic point of view … a dream hiding at the next street corner”. Until January 11; polkagalerie.com.

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JAM HOT

RAY YAU

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Party season continues into January, with New York’s Winter Jazzfest and its mammoth line-up. Headliners include the funky Hypnotic Brass Ensemble, left, made up of the eight sons of famed jazz trumpeter Phil Cohran, plus performances from Brazil’s modern samba star Seu Jorge with guitarist Rogê and clarinetist Anat Cohen Choro Aventuroso, whose set will be a rousing medley of reggae, pop, electronica and, of course, jazz.

There’ll also be a “Sounds of the Dutch Underground” showcase including Tin Men and The Telephone and Binkbeats, as well as sounds from Kris Davis’ Diatom Ribbons. January 9-18 in multiple block-rocking venues across the City. winterjazzfest.com

LITTLE SCREEN, BIG AMBITIONS Gone are the days of Hollywood’s monopoly on filmmaking and the means of its production. On January 25, talented amateurs and professionals gather for the Dublin Smartphone Film Festival, an international film competition for which the sole requirement is that submitted films, short and long, are shot, edited and created on a handheld smartphone. Last year’s winners included Jason van Genderen’s heartbreaking dementia documentary, The Missing Things, starring his mother Henrika, and Declan Dowling’s virtual reality film, Faoladh, about a child navigating a Viking invasion in ninth-century Ireland. dublinsmartphonefestival.com

FESTIVE FROLICS Kids can hop aboard Santa’s House Express train at Palmerstown House Estate, Co Kildare until December 23 (santashouseexpress.ie) and also listen along to Mrs Claus’ story time, feed the reindeer or have the bants with Mr Claus himself. In Co Clare, Bunratty Castle’s twinkling village and fairy trail is aka the Santa Grotto Experience until December 23 (bunrattycastle.ie). There, not only can children visit Santa, but also ice skate, visit puppet and magic shows, and help the elves in their workshops, while parents enjoy a complimentary glass of mulled wine and a mince pie. On December 18, Inclusive Enchantment for children and adults with specific needs will be held at Antrim Castle Gardens (enchantedwintergarden.com), where a relaxed evening is tailored to those sensitive to lights, noise and large crowds.

And don’t miss the nationwide Branar Téatar do Pháistí’s ’Twas the Night Before Christmas (branar.ie), a fantastic children’s show based on the classic poem of the same name, touring across multiple venues until December 21.

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PICTURE THIS The National Gallery of Ireland’s first ever photographic exhibit, View of Ireland: Collecting Photography, captures the country and its people through an array of vintage and modern prints. Albumen, platinum and silver gelatin prints comprise the intriguing exhibit and also a collection of daguerreotypes – portraits dating from the mid-19th century, alchemised using iodine-sensitised silver plates and mercury vapour. nationalgallery.ie

HAVING A BALL Tchaikovsky’s evergreen The Nutcracker is the usual Christmas ballet staple, but this December the Ballet of the National Opera of Bordeaux presents a shimmering performance of Cinderella based on David Bintley’s inventive interpretation of Sergei Prokofiev’s original score. Bintley’s 2010 reboot with the Birmingham Royal Ballet immediately had critics raving about the dazzling Jules Verne-inspired stage design and costumes created by John Macfarlane, and, nearly a decade on, it’s clear why this production still has (pirouetting and en pointe ...) legs across the globe. Performances run from December 10-31 at the imposing Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux. opera-bordeaux.com

THREE BOYS, DUBLIN, 1963 © EDWARDQUINN.COM / COLLECTION: NATIONAL GALLERY OF IRELAND

MOVIE NIGHT Snuggle up for a screening under the stars at London’s plush Berkeley Hotel, which has transformed its rooftop into a cosy Christmas cinema, with twinkling lights, pine trees and wooden chalets stocked with blankets and hot water bottles. Seasonal classics, such as Home Alone and The Holiday, will play on the big screen, while guests dine on swanky snacks: truffle mac ‘n’ cheese, potato rosti and spicedbeef hot dogs. Mulled wine will flow freely, while children can indulge in unlimited hot chocolate. The hotel’s Rooftop Winter Cinema runs until December 31, by reservation only. the-berkeley.co.uk

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DIASPORA

ARTS OF NOISE The Dublin-born, globe-spanning composer, vocalist and sound artist Jennifer Walshe is a pioneer of contemporary, experimental music and divides her time between Roscommon, London and Stuttgart – and was recently elected to Berlin’s Akademie der Künste (Academy of Arts), where Bob Dylan is one of up to 500 international members.

Your work explores modern life, for better or worse. How would you describe your work/sound? I’m fascinated with the texture of the world we live in now, with what it feels like to be alive at this point in history. And to be interested in the world right now means to be thinking about lots of things, from the climate emergency and the rise of populism to the ubiquity of smartphones and AI. We are all participating in AI, even if we never write a line of code, simply by walking around with phones with neural chips in our pockets. We give away our data for free and it’s used to train neural networks, which go on to have impacts on people’s lives that we may never expect. I’m a vocalist and so I’m particularly fascinated by the growing presence of virtual voice assistants, as well as the current work on vocal synthesis.

this nomadic streak? Neoliberalism? Late capitalism? I certainly come from a long line of Irish people who have had to move around in order to get work: my greatgrandfather worked building the railroads in America. But most artists I know have had to move around, either to go where there is work and a community, or to move to places where perhaps there isn’t so much work but rent and housing is affordable.

What are you working on now? A largescale work for musicians and film, using AI. I’m trying to think through “Irishness” using machine learning. The piece will premiere in Ireland’s National Concert Hall in 2020.

You divide your time between London and Roscommon, and teach in Stuttgart.

What do you love about each place? I live part-time in Roscommon, in the cottage once owned by my late great-uncle, the outsider artist Caoimhín Breathnach. As a born and bred Dub who is considered a blow-in by the very lovely locals, I’ve fallen for the Northwest. Hiking up to the caves of Kesh or Knocknarea, body-boarding at Dunmoran, visiting the holy well at Tobernalt, lunch at Lyons café and calling into the wood carver Michael Quirke in Sligo town. In London, I love the buzz and vibrancy of a huge city. Turkish food on the Green Lanes, noodles at Koya, concerts at Café Oto. For me, the best part of Stuttgart is working with the very talented students of the University of Music and the Performing Arts, where I’m professor of experimental performance.

Dublin-born, higher-educated in Glasgow, doctorate from Northwestern in Chicago … to whom or what do you owe

Favourite music city? I've an absolute soft spot for New York. I lived there for four years and, while I now live in London, I’ll be

a New Yorker at heart, always. While there, I worked a lot with the great experimental musician and artist Tony Conrad, and there are so many memories – doing a performance together using intonarumori, the Futurist noise instruments, in Times Square; recording in the Music Building; rehearsing in different studios Tony had secreted away, like safe houses across Brooklyn; performing together in Issue Project Room; haggling over instrument rental prices at Guitar Center.

The most Irish thing about you? Flann O’Brien has inspired me to play fast and loose with historical truth in projects such as Aisteach, a completely fictional archive of historical avant-garde Irish music and art.

How has frequent travel influenced your work? It’s absolutely crucial to what I do. I work a lot as a free improviser and being able to travel means being able to play with people I haven’t played with before, stretching myself creatively, finding new things – it’s really invigorating and exciting. The travel is part of the job, whether you like it or not – many nonmusicians are surprised to hear that often when musicians are booked to perform in a city, they’re often contracted in a way that prevents them from doing another performance in that city within a six- or 12-month period. But one of the best parts about the travel is that I have friends all over the world. I really value that.

PHOTOGRAPH BY DERVISAGIST.COM

What does the Akademie der Künste honour mean to you? It’s wonderful to feel my work is being recognised at such a high level. The Akademie has many members whose work I find deeply inspiring and I’m honoured to be in their company.

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STOP LOOK LISTEN Barcelona’s Fundació Joan Miró presents Sound Art?, a fascinating interactive exhibition examining the sonorisation of artworks, specifically focusing on how visual artists have been influenced by sound, music and silence since the 19th century. This vast collection of multimedia includes Paul Kos’s installation piece The Sound of Ice Melting – in which a large ice cube is surrounded by microphones, relaying its inner audio – John Baldessari’s large-scale sculpture Beethoven’s Trumpet (With Ear) Opus #133 and MK Ciurlionis’ Fugue painting, above. fmirobcn.org

ISLAND RECORDS The ultimate prelude to New Year's Eve, Symphonic Ibiza, on December 30, is one of the many highlights of this year’s Edinburgh Hogmanay festival. Legendary DJ Andy Joyce will team up with musician Steve Etherington and a live orchestra to create a unique twist on those hands-inthe-air Balearic club anthems from the past 30 years.

Their symphonic sounds and electronic finessing will take place in the historic and grandiose McEwan Hall at the University of Edinburgh – a far cry from the hedonistic super-clubs of Pacha, Eden and Amnesia.

Tickets from £33. edinburghshogmanay.com

MK IURLIONIS / FUGUE, 1908 / TEMPERA ON PAPER / MK CIURLIONIS NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART

LUST FOR LEGACY This year’s Dublin Bowie Festival celebrates the 50th anniversary of the artist’s iconic album The Man Who Sold the World, presenting tribute acts, lectures, artwork and more (dublinbowiefestival.ie). Running January 8-12, highlights include a Silent Disco, Silhouettes and Shadows art exhibition – inspired by the star’s love of the Pre-Raphaelite movement – a Q&A with author Darryl W Bullock on Bowie’s LGBT influence and Holy Holy at The Olympia, where legendary Bowie collaborators – producer Tony Visconti and Spiders from Mars drummer Woody Woodmansey – will headline. Meanwhile, for those seeking music with a more homespun air, TradFest (tradfest.ie) returns to venues across Dublin City (January 22-26) with a barn-storming line-up including Afro Celt Sound System, Hothouse Flowers and Lisa Lambe.

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DINNER THE NOMAD,

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LOS ANGELES

My husband and I took a Pacific Coast Highway driving trip last year. We ate at some amazing places including the fabulous restaurant at NoMad Hotel in Los Angeles. The whole-roasted chicken is unforgettable – breast stuffed with brioche; black truffle butter under the skin with foie gras; brown meat with sautéed corn and fregola; the wing, crispy and fried over a bed of frisée ... The dish, the restaurant and the hotel were sublime and it remains a wonderful memory from a glorious trip. nomadhotel.com

LUNCH STRAVAIGIN, GLASGOW Glasgow has long been a spiritual home for me. There’s a rich, hilarious and gritty spirit to its people that reminds me very much of working-class Dublin, though when I first started visiting in the early 1990s, it was something of a culinary wilderness (with the exception of the incredible Indian food, of course). Stravaigin was a shining outlier and responsible for teaching me to take pride in traditional recipes and indigenous produce. Stravaigin’s mission to “showcase Scottish produce that isn’t tethered to its roots” woke me to the joys of our own heritage. stravaigin.co.uk BREAKFAST DISHOOM,

LONDON

As a food obsessive, London is magical to me. Despite creeping gentrification, the East End remains gloriously colourful. The Wrestler’s Breakfast Naan at Dishoom in Shoreditch is my favourite start to a London food odyssey. Dishoom’s food and vibe are inspired by the buzzing Zoroastrian Iranian cafés of early 1900s Bombay, such as Koolar & Co, which directly inspired this Wrestler’s Roll, left. Peppery Shropshire sausages, bacon and runny fried eggs, all wrapped in a hot buttery naan. dishoom.com

FOOD FLIGHT Elaine Murphy has worked with Fáilte Ireland and Tourism Ireland and sat as a director on the board of Tourism Ireland until 2017. She is a founding director of the Winding Stair restaurant group, comprising the awardwinning restaurants The Winding Stair, The Woollen Mills, The Washerwoman, The Yarn and The Legal Eagle. winding-stair.com

DRINKS THE CHINESE PAVILION, LISBON Owner Luis Pinto Coelho opened Pavilhão Chines (Chinese Pavilion) in 1986 as an antique shop inside an old grocery store that had been standing since 1901. Being the sociable Lisboan he is, he was constantly mingling with friends and drinking with new clients at his shop and, a year later, he officially opened the space as a bar. On a night out in Lisbon with friends some years back, we got stuck into a game of pool at the bar and worked our way through the more than ten-page menu of old school cocktails and gin and tonics. Try the Monkey 47, with just a dash of tonic.

Visit our website for retail stockists in your area or to buy online from our comprehensive collection of women’s and men’s footwear, clothing, leather bags and accessories

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A TALE OF TWO CITIES Sparky Irish chef and restaurateur Richard Corrigan opened Daffodil Mulligan (daffodilmulligan.com) to great cheer on Old Street, London in November. The newly-anointed restaurant features a ten-seater oyster bar and a basement saloon, which will play host to a series of live music nights. The seafoodfocused hotspot is named after a celebrated character – Daffodil Mulligan – who hailed from old school Dublin neighbourhood, The Coombe, or so the song about her goes. Meanwhile – in a notably prescient mirroring of events – Spitalfields (a far more commonly used London moniker) opened in The Coombe in September (spitalfields.ie). The London-style gastro pub, left, with an equally reputable team behind it, is serving up “traditional, classical restaurant cooking, in a pub setting”, via dishes such as “Old Dublin” gravlax, devilled egg with caviar, beef cheek and bone marrow, and schnitzel with smoked eel and gremolata. Far from being diminished, Anglo-Irish agreement, at least in these two dining rooms, is clearly thriving.

GRUB’S UP Eoin Higgins tastes the best of the season.

ALIVE, ALIVE, OH! In the comfortable and cosy basement of the newly opened MoLI (Museum of Literature Ireland), The Commons café, operated by sisters Peaches and Domini Kemp, is proving a popular all-day stop-off for visitors to the wordy, and worthy, museum. Drop in after a visit to try an Irish classic, or two: the breakfast blaa is hearty and replenishing, as is the thoroughly Dublin-centric cockles and mussels chowder. There are lots of delicious plant-based options too. moli.ie

FESTIVE TIPPLES

RARE PLAY A covetable Irish whiskey expression, Midleton Very Rare 2019 Vintage (€180) has been launched just in time for Christmas and the New Year.

For Irish whiskey fans there’s hardly a better New Year’s resolution than investing in a bottle of this liquid gold. midletonveryrare.com

Recently released Irish drinks to sip and to savour.

GINGLE BELLS The botanicals of Skellig Six18 gin (€50) include yarrow, Douglas fir and birch sap. Traditionally worn to bring good luck on a journey, yarrow is fragrantly bittersweet, while Douglas fir delivers an herbaceous depth that enhances the gin’s citrus notes. skelligsix18distillery.ie

TRY WOLF Wicklow Wolf has added a new dry Irish stout to its roster of tasty tipples.

Locavore (€4) is, as the name hints, “a celebration of all things local”, combining homegrown hops, Wicklow water, barley from Athgarrett Malt and speciality malts from nearby Co Kildare. wicklowwolf.com

18 PLUS The release of single malt Fercullen 18 Year Old Irish Whiskey (€140) has introduced a robust new temptation to uisce beatha enthusiasts.

Combined oak and bourbon tones give depth and character to an ethereal spectrum of balanced flavours. powerscourtdistillery.com

BAR COUNSEL Sample as you learn at Dublin Bar Academy’s Cocktail Bootcamp (€39), an educational evening of glamour, fun and clinking drinks.

A classic cocktail tasting is followed by a hands-on mix-off challenge, participants genning up as they go. dublinbaracademy.com

DETOURIST

Eoin Higgins, a native happy to show off his stomping ground, takes us on a stroll around Dublin’s Glasnevin.

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iterary, leafy and increasingly edible, Glasnevin, located on the northside of Dublin City, is chock-full of culture and history. Featured prominently in James Joyce’s Ulysses, in particular its famous cemetery (home to “one million Dubliners”), the district is as distinguished as it is eclectic.

BOOGIE & BITE Brand new, yet retro – check out that cute Miami Vice colour scheme – Racket Space is a new late bar, venue and events space, and setting for the wildly popular Eatyard, a weekly pop-up of the city’s most interesting street food purveyors, offering a bounty of bites and beverages from bao to kombucha, Thursday to Sunday. thebernardshaw.com

MINGLE The Honest2Goodness “natural food market” features a considered curation of grub producers and traders hawking wholesome and indulgent groceries and treats to a sociable crowd, on Saturdays.

On Thursday evenings, the Twilight Market, at the same location, hosts more creative producers and small plate dining, often from top-class guest chefs. honest2goodness.ie

THE DETOURIST=

GARDEN PARTY The National Botanic Gardens – possibly the most underrated of Dublin’s attractions – comprises 19.5 hectares of important plant species and is a thoroughly rejuvenating feast for the senses.

Highlights are the beautifully restored glasshouses, home to a wealth of exotic and engaging flora from around the planet. botanicgardens.ie

PUBLIC LIFE Eight generations of Kavanaghs have run one of the city’s most still intact 19th-century pubs. Best known as The Gravediggers (the neighbouring cemetery workers used to down pints in the bar), the pub opened a year after the necropolis and is still very much as it was then: comfortably unrefined. A lounge next door serves decent tapas and pub grub.

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GRAVE CONCERN Glasnevin Cemetery and its adjoining museum are the centrepieces of the district’s visitor attractions, famous as much for their illustrious dead as their architectural fancies – from Daniel O’Connell’s round tower tomb to the museum’s sweeping curves. Take the tour and/or learn more about your ancestral roots at the museum. glasnevinmuseum.ie

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HOMEMADE

Fall in love with our specially selected, seasonal round-up of Irish handmade keepsakes and gifts.

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1. HOOT OUT

Made from Irish beech, Saturday Workshop’s rather fetching ornamental owl is a festive decoration that’ll look good all year round. Plus, it’s stackable, so children can easily assemble it themselves. €35 at saturdayworkshop.ie

2. JAM SESH

Cute and cosy, this snug pyjama set from Moon+Mellow is 100 per cent cotton with a feather pattern and French cuffs.

And its elasticated waistband allows for endless seasonal indulgence. €198 at moonandmellow.com

3. KNIT PICK

Pearl Reddington’s latest winter-warming collection superbly balances bright and neutral tones. This Achill Pom Hat is handspun from Merino wool, which means no two are ever alike. From €55 at pearlreddington.com

4. GLAM GRAM

Vintage styled with an industrial edge, Mullan Lighting’s dapper table lamp is modelled after a 20thcentury gramophone.

Available in an antique, polished brass or silver finish (dilemma!). €375 at mullanlighting.com

5. LONG GAME

Made of Irish yew and beautifully packaged, Rowena Sheen’s splendid pendulum earrings are named after the Russian artist Wassily Kandinsky, who studied balance and movement. €55 at rowenasheen.com

6. KICK IT

Tutty’s Handmade Shoes create custommade leather footwear to last, such as these brown brogues that are orthopaedically designed for comfort and style. €350 from their workshop in Co Kildare. tuttys handmadeshoes.ie

One Destination

A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

Book online today Experience a unique landscape and culture by staying in County Clare Open 9am – 5pm in December & January

Co. Clare, Ireland.

T: +353 65 7086141 E: info@cliffsofmoher.ie

United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

www.cliffsofmoher.ie

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THE DESIGN HOTELS BOOK 2020 (€60) Design Hotels is a collective of more than 300 independent, design-led hotels, across 60 countries, which “defy conventional notions of luxury”. Established 25 years ago, the collective is celebrating with this lavish book featuring 25 newly opened hotels from around the world, ranging from a former 1930s warehouseturned-hip-artist-hangout in Stockholm to a minimalist tree house in Tulum, Mexico, left.

The award-winning photographers include Robbie Lawrence, Jake Curtis, Danilo Scarpati and Nacho Alegre, the co-founder of the cult interiors magazine Apartamento. Available at designhotels.cc.

THE BEST AMERICAN TRAVEL WRITING 2019 edited by Alexandra Fuller (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt) The annual round-up of travel writing published in US journals takes readers far afield – Chernobyl, Guantanamo, Kashmir, Montgomery, Myanmar – as well as to five Trump-branded properties in four countries. “The way may be hot, and violent, and baffling,” writes editor, Alexandra Fuller, “but that doesn’t remove from us the shared responsibility of strapping on our boots.”

C O O K E RY

CLEVER BATCH by Susan Jane White (Gill) Whether you gift it as a Christmas present or use it yourself to stock up the larder/freezer over winter, the latest from the Irish Sunday Independent’s green goddess tells you how to cook healthy and smart, ie less. It’s all about maximising efficiency with freezer dressings and sauces, flavour grenades, fermentation and freezing in batches. Delicious recipes, many vegan.

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FRANCIS BACON: BOOKS AND PAINTING by Didier Ottinger (Thames & Hudson) Published to tie in with the first Bacon retrospective in Paris for 20 years, which runs at the Centre Pompidou until January 20, the book looks at Bacon’s relationship with literature. Bacon owned more than 1,300 books and spoke of how writers including TS Eliot and Aeschylus “opened up the valves of sensation” for him.

EVENT

SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican leafs through an impressive hotel book, and takes us through new reads and listens, from a clever cookbook to a crafty podcast.

PODCAST

MEET YOUR MAKER Every two weeks, host Liam Geraghty, below, meets a “maker” – of films, stories, comics, cartoons, music and also of clocks, puppets, coins and online role-playing, for “a show about the people who make the things we love”. The conversation can go anywhere – cartoonist Chris Ware talks about his influences, including a marvellous homage to Joyce’s Ulysses, while Kristine Rose-Beers, senior conservator in Dublin’s Chester Beatty Library, talks about how to conserve 1,000-year-old manuscripts written on papyrus.

Each episode is a succinct 16 minutes.

LOUISA MAY ALCOTT’S AMERICAN CLASSIC LITTLE WOMEN HAS BEEN FILMED SEVEN TIMES AND COUNTING BY HOLLYWOOD, SERIALISED FOUR TIMES BY THE BBC, MADE INTO TWO ANIME SERIES IN JAPAN, AND IT’S AN INDIAN WEB SERIES SET IN CONTEMPORARY KASHMIR. CATCH THE LATEST BIG-SCREEN VERSION, THIS TIME DIRECTED BY GRETA GERWIG AND STARRING OUR VERY OWN SAOIRSE RONAN AS THE SPIRITED JO, OPPOSITE MERYL STREEP, EMMA WATSON AND TIMOTHÉE CHALAMET. RELEASED DECEMBER 27.

RUTH MEDJBER

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Because in these times of constant flux, those with ambition want partners who understand transformation.

Get the future working for you. Think beyond the obvious. Think PwC. pwc.ie

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Favourite family holiday destination? We like Spain – the language, the culture, the lifestyle, chorizo and the Mediterranean ...

We especially love Menorca, near Ciutadella, as the beaches and coves are spectacular. Being able to swim in warm water until nine o’clock at night is fantastic.

In a fantasy world, where would you celebrate Christmas? The San Blas Islands, off the coast of Panama. I was filming a series for TG4 a few years ago and our driver was from one of them and showed me his pictures. There are loads of tiny islands, many uninhabited and all owned by the local Panamanian Indian tribes.

TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The latest adventure for the well-travelled, ebullient broadcaster Hector Ó hEochagáin has been road-tripping across eight US states for his new series Hector USA Ó Chósta go Cósta, available at TG4.ie.

When was the last time you were genuinely lost? I’ve been lost many times driving around Kildare, near Donadea ... But last year I traversed Siberia and Mongolia in minus-35-degree temperatures. Sometimes I felt completely and utterly lost in a world of snow and ice.

What in America surprised you the most?

The size of each state, the never-ending, always busy maze of Interstate Highways, the South’s beautiful rural countryside, the sunsets, the Mississippi River almost always beside me as we travelled. And Wendy’s burgers, of course.

If you had to live anywhere that you visited for Hector USA, where would it be? I liked the people of the South – their passion and their welcome. Maybe Santa Fe, New Mexico, up North. They’ve a great climate, a spectacular red desert and mountain landscape. There’s a great cultural mix of native Indians – the Pueblos – and a huge Hispanic and Latin American influence. Throw in the hippie, arty world and that would be my ideal location.

Most memorable hotel you’ve ever stayed in?

A few years ago, I stayed in the Ariaú Towers in the middle of the Amazonian rainforest, in northern Brazil. Bill Gates and his family had just checked out the day we arrived. It’s a wooden stilted, eco-friendly hotel, built on the water, and words can’t describe how special it was.

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WEEKENDER

PARC LIFE

This summer Center Parcs made its Irish debut in Co Longford.

Here, Lizzie Gore-Grimes weighs up its family friendly bias and Lucy White tests the waters of its snazzy spa.

FAMILY STAYCATION

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s purpose-built, kid-friendly fun goes, it doesn’t get better than this. Center Parcs Longford Forest (centerparcs.ie), open since August, is an outpost of the well-established Center Parcs family of resorts in Europe and the first of its kind in Ireland. The Longford version is smaller than its UK cousins (where Whinfell Forest caters for up to 4,668 guests, Longford Forest’s capacity is 2,500), but it boasts the same main attractions, namely the 3,500-sqm Subtropical Swimming Paradise (heated to 29.5°C all year round); watersports lake, impressive aerial adventure and zipline, spa and almost car-free grounds. It’s fair to say that with more than 100 different activities

to choose from – from Bollywood dancing to bowling – it’s paradise for kids.

Since opening, the Longford resort has been met with some concerns, chiefly the cost. Center Parcs can get really expensive, really quickly – but it doesn’t have to. The only compulsory cost is the lodge rental.

After that, access to the Subtropical Paradise is free and unlimited, but then any other activity must be booked and paid for, so that’s where you’ve to be careful.

Lodge prices vary according to type, with three levels on offer. Having visited twice and stayed in both an Executive Lodge (mid-level with closer location to main hub) and a Woodland Lodge (standard level, further out), we were pleasantly surprised to find the latter almost identical in fit-out (save for fewer TVs and one less

bathroom) and every bit as comfortable.

We actually preferred being located further out, where the only downside seemed to be more trees and a longer cycle into the action – both bonuses in our book.

As someone who feels like they spend all their time herding children and an extraordinary array of bags (school bags, handbags, GAA bags, laptop bags, lunch bags) in and out of the car … abandoning it all for the weekend was a joy.

The aerial tree trekking, with zipline across the lake, and the indoor wall climbing also rated highly, but the Subtropical Paradise was easily the out-and-out favourite. With the pool, rapids and slides as the mainstay, there’s no need to add lots of expensive extra activities; maybe just pick one or two really special ones, while

WEEKENDER

very reasonable options include snooker, tennis, ping pong and more.

I would advise, though, to come with your own groceries. While there are numerous cafés and restaurants in the park – offering everything from pizza and pasta to Asian fare – the standard of the food is extremely ordinary. We enjoyed doing our own barbecue one night and eating out the other (super friendly staff in Cara’s Kitchen easily made up for eminently forgettable tortellini). Every lodge comes with its own outdoor grill set-up and the on-site supermarket sells jumbo disposable barbecue kits.

So, is Center Parcs expensive? It can be, absolutely. Taking a family of five away anywhere for a weekend is costly. ‘Is it worth it?’ is perhaps the better question. If you avoid the hiked prices (and additional crowds) of peak school-holiday periods, make the most of the water park and just pick one or two really worthwhile activities, it offers very decent value. Add to that the truly novel experience of 72 hours of family time without a single argument over screens, and it’s worth every penny.

LODGES & EXTRAS Accommodation options and prices vary but start from €299 for a fournight midweek break in a two-bed Woodland Lodge, up to €1,599 for an Executive fourbedroom lodge during the same period. Bikes are essential and start at €27.50 each to hire but you can bring your own. All other activities are priced individually, starting from €5.50 for a guided woodland walk to €32 for the aerial tree adventure and lake zipline.

SPA BREAK

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y first visit to a Center Parcs resort was in 1989, at Sherwood Forest, UK, when three generations of our family shared a three-bed lodge for three nights. The very height of sophistication and modern luxury, the kitchen and lounge were open-plan – a radical concept in Britain at the time – and, stop the press, there was underfloor heating in the bathrooms!

Alas, there were no distinguishing features in the Longford resort’s selfcatering lakeside apartment, our twin room having a curiously perfunctory, businesshotel quality, despite being purpose-built for guests checking into the luxurious Aqua Sana Spa (aquasana.ie). The apartments’ close proximity negates the need for hiring, or bringing, a bike, and also helps prolong that walking-on-air feeling after having lolled around hot rooms all afternoon.

Aqua Sana is Ireland’s largest, standalone spa, covering 2,500sqm, a large portion of which include 21 unisex “sensory areas” of Nordic-inspired wet rooms, swimming pools, hot tubs, tepidaria, saunas and other inventive nooks and crannies. The abundance is so genuinely overwhelming, you may need a lie down to get over it – ideally on one of the heated water beds.

But do start with the designated foot-bath area, before sussing out the four themed zones: Nordic Forest, Hot Springs, Volcanic Forest and Treetop Nesting.

There’s nothing lovelier than thawing out in hot rooms during the winter months – and each zone has plenty, from the invigorating,

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rose-scented Alpine Steam to the sultry, muscle-relieving Lava Sauna. There are so many variations on the theme, you wonder what can they possibly come up with next … then you enter the Forest Glade, perch atop a “tree stump” and listen to filtered birdsong against a photographic backdrop of trees while engulfed in a pine-scented cumulus. Suddenly, again, you’re in a new, Narnia-like portal.

Also unique is the Scandinavian Snug – a separate lodge with a concentric “log” fire – and the Fire Side Relax room, in which guests are invited to hibernate in cocoonlike pods to a soundtrack of crackling wood.

Just add oversize cushions and blankets and you’ll be snoring in no time.

Those water beds were a welcome surprise, too. Synonymous with 1980s playboys, they have here been rebranded as heated marvels upon which you could lay daydreaming for hours (although you would then miss the programme of interactive talks in the spa’s mini lecture room, ranging from skincare to sleep hygiene).

With regards to face and body treatments, Aqua Sana use VOYA and Elemis products. I had a VOYA Mindful Dreams Massage Ritual, devised to aid sleep, and the next day an Elemis Brighten and Glow, a face and body treatment combining hot stones and warm oils. I slept well indeed – enabled also, perhaps, by the in-room food delivery from the park’s Indian restaurant, Rajinda Pradesh.

The one bum note at Aqua Spana – and it is a hefty one – is that having a spa treatment (the cheapest of which is a salt scrub at €52) doesn’t give you automatic access to the spa facilities. Everyone, regardless of having had a massage or being an overnight guest, has to pay €55 to access all areas. With that in mind, if you’re on a budget, I would recommend eschewing a treatment altogether and spending your time and money on “just” the ample spa facilities. They are truly second to none and, after a few hours of wallowing in outdoor hot tubs, audio-vsiual steam rooms, and catnapping on sun loungers beneath a canopy of terrarium, you’ll reach the exact same level of bliss as from any massage or facial.

Of course, there are always treatment packages and promotions throughout the year – with various minimum-age Ts and Cs – so watch the website closely to see what works best for you and your budget.

Fly to and from the airport.

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INTERVIEW

READY STEADY MOE Actor Moe Dunford has quietly and confidently crafted a career in Ireland that any young drama graduate would be happy to emulate. But building on the success of a key role in the RTÉ/BBC drama Dublin Murders, his stock is set to rise.

WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS CONOR CLINCH

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t is a full ten years since Moe Dunford, 31, graduated from Dublin’s Gaiety School of Acting and, while he may not yet be a household name (“whenever I go to, say, London, no one knows who the hell I am,” he says matter-of-factly), he is edging closer to it. The past five years, in particular, have seen Dunford’s profile rise skyward in Ireland through vivid, evocative and performative roles in films such as Patrick’s Day (2014), Michael Inside (2017), a hat-trick in 2018 – Black ’47, The Dig and Rosie – and in 2019 two more Ireland-based films, Metal Heart and Dark Lies the Island (loosely based on characters in short stories written by Booker Prize longlisted Kevin Barry). And lest, or dare, we forget, from 2014-2018 there was his front-of-camera role in the television series, Vikings.

In other words, Dunford is assuredly getting there, his busy schedule reflecting not only an implacable dedication to his chosen art form but also a perceptive (and shrewdly methodical) approach to completing an apprenticeship. As coincidence would have it, Dunford and Cara meet the day before he leaves for London for his first lead role in a non-Irish film, called Knuckledust.

He says that projects with so many Irish filmmakers were undertaken for specific reasons (wanting to work with a particular director, writer and/or actor being a crucial one), but the most important objective was to collaborate. “I’m all about characters that struggle,” he reveals, highlighting the empathetic strain running in parallel with his role choices – essentially people with socio-psychological issues – and his own personality traits. “It isn’t about whether success is the end result, but the struggle.”

He points to his father as the person who triggered his passion for film. “It’s interesting how the love of something like that develops,” he ponders, relating how, at the age of 16, he got kicked out of biology class because the teacher caught him reading something other than his textbook. The Story of Film, by Mark Cousins, contained, recalls Dunford, “out-there names, otherworldly movies that I just wanted to learn about.” The film that changed his perception of what Irish filmmaking could do, and be, was Garage (2007), directed by Lenny Abrahamson and written by Mark O’Halloran. “I had never seen the way such small-

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I’m happy with where I’m at but I would never take for granted that I’m owed anything from anybody

INTERVIEW

mindedness from small-town people could be presented. The manner in which some people could be shoved into the margins resonated with me.”

From then onwards, Dunford sensed what he wanted to be and, in 2009, he enrolled in the Gaiety School of Acting.

By this point, the likes of Colin Farrell, Cillian Murphy, Saoirse Ronan and several other younger Irish actors were sure-footedly establishing themselves on international terms. While Farrell “paved the way for acting generations to come”, Dunford says he never presumed his dreams of being a successful working

actor would be realised without putting in years of hard graft.

“I have to work for the career, every day,” he says with no small emphasis. “You can spend a lot of time out of work in the job but the past few years have been a period of growth. I’m happy with where I’m at but I would never take for granted that I’m owed anything from anybody, or that work is just going to land at my feet.

The first few years of being an actor were very tough but, at the same time, I’m lucky to be doing what I’m doing. I’m glad of how far I’ve come and I’m glad that I didn’t let anybody stop me from coming forward. I’ve pushed …”

Even in the depths of unemployment as an actor, though, Dunford’s resilience made the difference. When he says he pushed, he isn’t fibbing. Yet the conflicts were imbued with a strength that comes from the positivity of being in the present moment, where, he says, “you’re not going around saying how tough it is; you’re going around saying how good it’s going to be, that you’re going to get through it”.

Get through it he did with such a dynamic performance in Patrick’s Day that, in 2015, he won the EFP Shooting Stars Award at the Berlin International Film Festival and an IFTA award for Best Actor in a Lead Role. “I’m glad that things came through when they did with Patrick’s Day,” he allows with a brief smile, “but it’s a true learning process doing all sorts of roles.”

What did he learn most about himself during the shaky periods of, as they say, resting between jobs? “Never give up. In the past ten years what I’ve learned is that any drama in your life or any confrontations that arise, it is never conducive to focus on the negative aspects. It’s the positivity, the love – that is what has got me through the past ten years and I want to take that with me.”

Things have been very good, he continues, eager to clarify (should there be

INTERVIEW

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INTERVIEW

MOVIES “I’m about to go and see Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time in Hollywood and I’m looking forward to it so much.

The last film I saw with the folks was Green Book, which I thought was an old-fashioned movie of the kind they don’t make any more.

The chemistry between Viggo Mortensen and Mahershala Ali, and the story that brings the two characters together, really got to me.”

TV “I’m watching Better Call Saul, featuring Bob Odenkirk. I loved Breaking Bad and it’s great the makers of it created a whole new world, a prequel, about crooked lawyer Jimmy McGill, that is just as interesting as the series that introduced the character.”

MUSIC “I went to All Together Now in Waterford during the summer and I have a playlist of the acts that performed there.

I love Damien Dempsey and his most recent album, Union – where he duets with the likes of Kate Tempest, John Grant and Finbar Furey – is great. I love his message of getting through the everyday.

I saw him in the Iveagh Gardens [in Dublin] in July last, and he was magic.” any misconceptions) that while he has latterly veered towards playing characters with problems, “my life hasn’t been like that”.

And long may it continue. We talk about the way some people conflate actors with the characters they play.

This muddled perception is continued when all we see of an actor outside their screen roles are the hours they spend walking the red carpet, being photographed, having microphones positioned too close to their mouths while promoting their work. What we rarely see are the twisting, messy paths that actors have to negotiate to get there.

In other words, the antisocial working hours, the weeks away from family and friends, living within a community of contrasting personalities and biting the tongue to avoid potential clashes.

“I’ve no interest in the fame aspect or the celebrity factor,” he reasons, “but it’s part and parcel of promoting certain movies. It has to be done and, when I do it, I have a good time. In Ireland we are into celebrating success and ambition, but that isn’t the real Ireland to me; it’s an Americanised version of fame and celebrity, there’s a rural Ireland I come from where some people don’t want to see the other person do well. I think we are in danger of losing that sense of what Ireland is and has – an undercurrent of unease that is in the work of writers such as Kevin Barry.”

And with that, Moe Dunford is gone. He reminds us that he has a flight to catch the next day. We remind him that his apprenticeship is over.

No pressure.

THEATRE “I saw a great show in this year’s Dublin Fringe Festival – Sauce, written by Ciara Elizabeth Smith, and starring herself and Camille Lucy Ross. One character’s obsessed with stealing and the other with lying. They meet in a weight-loss class and become friends. It’s tautly written and the actors’ chemistry brought out the best in each other.”

BOOKS “Right now I’m reading Kevin Barry’s Night Boat to Tangier. Set in a Spanish port town, he takes you on a real journey that involves two hitmen, talking and waiting … Another book I really admire – and one that is quite different and clever – is Nutshell,

by Ian McEwan.”

STYLING BY BRIAN CONWAY, GROOMING BY JEN QUINN. OPENING PAGE & ABOVE, LEATHER JACKET, GREEN ROLLNECK & GREY TROUSERS, ALL BY REISS. PREVIOUS PAGE & FRONT COVER, OATMEAL ROLLNECK BY COS, COAT BY OFFICINE GENERALE AT BROWN THOMAS, TROUSERS BY REISS; OPPOSITE, COAT BY OFFICINE GENERALE AT BROWN THOMAS, ORANGE JUMPER BY COS, TROUSERS BY REISS. CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF IRELAND, D2; NATIONALGALLERY.IE

THE LIKES OF MOE

NEW DALIQUE COLLECTION www.newbridgesilverware.com

HIP-HOP HIBERNIA Irish hip-hop is having a moment. While other pop genres tend to avoid the zeitgeist, this homegrown music is challenging it head on and with an identity all of its own.

WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS TRISTAN HUTCHINSON

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ip-hop music has always been at its most dynamic when it mixes emotion with articulacy. Throw in a new breed of Irish artist that takes musical cues from America but which filters in distinctive identities, and you have a comprehensive music form that is at once recognisable and solely of its own voice.

The past five years, in particular, have witnessed a profoundly transformed Irish hip-hop scene, not only with the range of diverse artists but also with genuinely perceptive subject matter. The following Irish artists are more representative than definitive, yet they (as well as those up-and-coming music acts featured in our sidebar) exemplify not only how Ireland continues successfully to engage with and embrace multiculturalism, but also how it produces, across the board, increasingly authoritative levels of self-expression.

THE REALIST NEALO

Neal Keating came to hip-hop in a roundabout, much-travelled way.

The former lead singer in a hardcore punk band toured around Europe and the US, emigrated to Vancouver, returned home to Dublin, undertook a law degree and worked in the legal profession, before ripping up the rule book to start over as a distinctly Irish rapper. He now keeps the wolves

from the door, so to speak, by being a professional dog walker. “It’s a unique perspective,” he says, modestly. “I have enough inspiration to draw from, I don’t need to fabricate anything.”

Keating readily admits that hip-hop is the perfect art form for his creative needs. “There are no limits to what I can write a song about, so what comes out is usually what has been swimming around in my subconscious.” Right now, in Dublin, he says, a particular demographic is experiencing a

generational crisis. “Rent is out of control, people are starting to emigrate again and we have droves of 18-27-yearolds who are not afforded the dignity of being able to move out of their parents’ houses. So, yeah, my music is a reaction, my reaction, to the way we live and the conditions I see around me.” Keating’s music is a splendid mix of righteous, honest hip-hop and chilled jazz. “If I can stick to those then I’ll be doing myself a favour when I look back at it in years to come.”

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THE ARTIST

THE ROLE MODEL

SOULÉ

Genre definitions don’t really interest Samantha Kay aka Soulé. Hip-hop, urban, neo-soul and anything else you want to call it: to Soulé it is no more and no less a universal language. “My music fully represents who I am as a person and all the things I’ve experienced in my life.

I make sure to write music that is honest and that people can relate to.” Like all of the best artists, she writes and sings from a place of authenticity. “There is freedom when you’re able to speak your truth, and this, in turn, can heal and help others who have been through similar things.

Mostly, artists write about what they see around them. A lot of times people have experiences in their lives yet can’t seem to find the right words to express it. As soon as you hear words in the music that you can relate to, however, there is instant connection. That is what’s so beautiful about music.” Soulé has been a crucial role model for diversity and scope within the Irish music scene since she emerged a few years ago. She admits to not thinking in depth about the “Irishness” in or of her music, but aims to “represent Ireland well wherever my music takes me”. Her increasing profile, nationally and beyond, is in line with what is happening to her contemporaries, something she attributes to hard work, artists releasing quality music and support from Irish radio/media. “We are going from strength to strength, and that’s a great position to be in.”

KOJAQUE

Kevin Smith knows his hip-hop as much as his art history. The multimedia artist, filmmaker and independent record label head (of Soft Boy Records) believes that “the Irish have a grip on the English language unlike any other country. Our turn of phrase, humour and insight is unique. Language has always been a crucial aspect of our identity, so it’s really impressive to see how much more engaged people are with the music now and how people are willing to listen to Irish accents.” Rapping in an Irish accent (virtually taboo when he started listening to the music, remarks Smith), “separates you in a good way”, he affirms. “I don’t think it’s a necessity by any means, however; accents are performative and so people have the right – and an artistic right, also – to sing, speak or perform however they want to.” Under the moniker of Kojaque, Smith is at the forefront of a nationwide resurgence. His 2018 album, Deli Daydreams, is rightly regarded as a latter-day hip-hop classic that does an exceptional job of highlighting the ordinary. “All I know is what I experience and how I feel. My goal is to relate to that experience as best as I can.” Such personalised stories, Smith maintains, are an essential aspect of the human condition. All he tries for, he discloses, is simply to articulate the truth as he sees it. “Understanding your own story so that others can understand you – that’s it.”

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THE THERAPIST BIIG PIIG

THE WORDSMITH

LETHAL DIALECT

The line between rap and poetry is thin, says Paul Alwright, who presents robust, confessional hip-hop under his own name as well as the Lethal Dialect moniker. “My own brain switches off when something is overly poetic because I associate it with school, so I attempt to strike a balance.” Such evenness is expertly achieved

by Alwright’s skills as a storyteller. He talks of old Dublin haunts “where you’d have a drink with great characters and storytellers” and bemoans they are being supplanted “by sterile places where people tend to keep to themselves”. He says he enjoys hip-hop the most when it has a proper narrative and, although not essential, symmetry. “I’m seeing it as something worth trying to uphold in music and beyond because storytelling is a dying art. There is a very rich poetic tradition in Ireland and I definitely aim to bring that into my work.” Conscious of the way in which people can misinterpret “message” songs, Alwright aims to tell it like it is without “condoning or condemning”. While his central belief is realism, he is concerned by the assimilation of hip-hop into generic pop culture. “You can see that words are becoming less important – in the mainstream, anyway.” There will always be a counterculture, he ventures. Hip-hope, anyone? “For every meaningless rap song you hear, you’ll see a new rapper who has something profound to say. You might just have to dig a little bit to find those ones!”

“Music makes you understand yourself more, you deal with emotions a lot easier,” says Jess Smyth, aka Biig Piig, a Corkborn London resident who was drawn into hip-hop several years ago at a party where people were free-associating over instrumental passages. She has lived in London for some years but her accent is identifiably, if subtly, Irish. Her background and her awareness of native identity are, she asserts, “referenced in my music, especially in the conversational aspects of it, of wanting, needing to express myself.”

Being signed to a major label (Sony Music) hasn’t in any way impacted on her singular style, which fuses the litheness of neo-soul with the firmness of hip-hop. She agrees that after a decade or so of shifting sands, Irish hip-hop is now very much on solid ground. “The communicative aspects of word-based music such as hip-hop are rooted in reality, and I think that’s why Irish hip-hop, in particular, is really finding its voice.” She points to the music’s combined sense of community and keen awareness of socio-political conflict as being pivotal to its strength. “Irish hip-hop people are being clever about that,” Smyth observes, “because saying something confrontational in a song turns it into less of an argument and more of a statement. What I say in my songs is not necessarily political, but I don’t feel the need to be.”

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FIVE BREAKOUTS Sia Babez Dublin-born Sia Babez (aka Seorsia Jack) is already on the record label/music industry radar thanks to her singles, Hit My Line and Are You Ready, two bouncy and beaty pop/R‘n’B songs imbued with flavours of her Zimbabwean family background.

JyellowL Of Nigerian/Jamaican background, Jean-Luc Uddoh fuses his academic interests (specifically politics, which he studied at University College Dublin) with a socially aware approach to music. His creative work ethic? It’s crucial for art to represent reality.

THE FORCE

MANGO X MATHMAN

Many are called, few are chosen, but the double trouble Dubliners who comprise Mango x Mathman are, without a doubt, to the manor born. “As an artist you can’t think you have all the answers,” says Mango (aka Karl Mangan), a bespectacled, quiet-spoken man who when on stage transforms into an unflinching ringleader of non-violent mayhem. “We just have to hold a mirror up to ourselves and it’s up to us if we like what we see staring back.” The counterbalance is, of course, Mathman (aka Adam Fogarty), a background production/studio boffin who creates the beats in the same way his partner whips up a storm. What is exhilarating about Irish hip-hop, says Mathman, is there is no longer “a singular prevailing sound. Practically the full spectrum of urban music is now being created – from neo-soul and R‘n’B to crossover hip-pop, boom bap, grime and trap.” Most significant, he feels, is the fresh generational position of self-belief and motivation. “Culturally diverse young people now have confidence and ambition to create, to make things happen for themselves. That can-do attitude stands for a lot, he notes, as it’s the driving force behind everything else.”

As the unit’s wordsmith, Mango is as forceful in language as in performance – he doesn’t pull any punches. “When my people are angry, or ignored, or pushed to their limit, then I am, too.

I feel that, and my reaction is to write.”

Tebi Rex One of RTÉ 2fm’s Rising Acts for 2019, Co Kildare-based Max Zanga and Matt O’Baoill subsequently released their vibrant, conceptual debut album, The Young Will Eat the Old – a canny fusion of hiphop, trap and pop – to much critical acclaim.

Alex Gough Waterford’s Alex Gough is one of the most hotly tipped Irish hip-hop artists/producers of 2019. The likes of Spotify and YouTube are all very familiar with his music. In other words?

Twenty-twenty is looking very good, indeed.

Celaviedmai Growing up in Dublin and Galway, Celaviedmai (aka Maimouna Salif) represents a bold version of assertive, female-led Irish rap/R‘n’B. Tracks such as Lights On, Lady, For Me and Ungrateful display a sensibility that marks her down as a certifiable, if unfairly overlooked, safe bet.

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REST-LAID

PLANS

Going on retreat in Ireland is not just for monks and hermits. It’s for anyone who wants to rest and recharge, with not a horsehair shirt in sight.

WORDS CONOR CREIGHTON PHOTOGRAPHS KYLE TUNNEY

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n the west coast of Clare, a short walk from the crowds getting the words blown out of their mouths at the cliffs, and just north of the dads learning to ride cappuccino foam at Lahinch, is a unique type of holiday experience, called the Cliffs of Moher Retreat. With no alcohol, no meat and limited Wi-Fi, participants spend their days meditating, doing yoga and engaging in that one thing all humans would be advised to do more of: self-inquiry.

If the idea of getting to know yourself sounds daunting or a bit heavy, then you’re probably a man. When I attended the Cliffs of Moher Retreat, we were only three, a number so small that we actually sought each other out when we arrived at the welcome reception. Both of the other men were there with their wives. This is nothing new. Since Eve first advised Adam to just try talking to his dad, women have been carrying the emotional burden of their partners. We hugged (the men, that is) in

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the same way we supporters of less popular football clubs do when we go watch a game against Liverpool. And then we all walked over to the yoga studio, lay down on mats made from celestial lambswool, while Dearbhla Glynn, the teacher taking the course, instructed us to do something most of us will only do at the end of our lives: pay close attention to our breath. An hour and a half later, we were feeling grounded, connected, attuned to the natural vibrations of the land around us. The magic had begun.

Michelle and Michael Moroney opened the Cliffs of Moher Retreat in the summer of 2014. They had both been involved in yoga for many years, running other businesses, the Little Yoga Cottage and YogaTraveller, but this retreat space is a big level up.

“People probably think they’re coming here for the yoga but there are so many more elements to the space,” says Michelle, “in one direction, the rocks – with all that drama, light and ocean – and in the other, the undulating landscape. And then there

Opening pages, left, the outdoor sauna at Cliffs of Moher Retreat and, opposite, Sarah Clark from New York, who travelled over just for the weekend.

This page, clockwise from above left, awakening morning yoga; clean lines of the studio; colourful, garden-fresh salad.

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“We don’t say anything about it,” says Michelle, “but nobody brings their phones to the meals. People intuitively disconnect”

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are the friendships that are made here, that last for lifetimes.”

On the first night, as every night, breakfast and lunch time, we sit at two giant tables and eat an incredible range of amazing vegetarian meals, whose ingredients have mostly been plucked from the next field. The food is made with love.

No, it actually is. The chefs are beaming as they serve you.

It reminds me – the vibe that is, not the food – of going to the Gaeltacht as a teenager. There’s no “will ye meet me mate at the Céilí Mór” or swallowing Polo mints so the Bean an Tí doesn’t catch the whiff of Silk Cut off your breath, but for the next five days, we’ll sleep in close (albeit

Above, retreat founder Michelle Moroney, teaching a class. Opposite, clockwise from top left, edible calendula from the garden; Michelle takes a break; a sumptuous yet healthy lunch; hike guide and chef, Jaime Gonzalez.

luxurious) quarters, share our meals and get to know each other extremely well, and that, as an adult, is rare. We try our best to avoid these situations ordinarily. Vulnerability is frightening. But it also forces us to trust, and of all the positions we’ll put our bodies into on the yoga mats, it’s the trusting that will open us up the most. For five days we’ll become a temporary family living in a contemporary utopia.

Yoga and meditation take up about three and a half hours a day, in total, at the retreat. The rest of the time is set aside for connection. If you take a bunch of humans and nurture them with the best food for their bodies and the best exercises for their mind, what emerges is the best version of that person. And whether it’s walking up towards the cliffs, or down to the swimming hole, or sitting in the hot tub or the sauna, there’s craic for sure, but for the most part what’s happening is some real healing through deep communication.

“There’s no rule about phones here,”

YOGA

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Top, the famous Cliffs of Moher and, above, mother and son, Karin and Tom Soderstrom, visiting Ireland together for the retreat.

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Michelle says, “We don’t say anything about it but nobody brings their phones to the meals. People intuitively disconnect.”

Sharon Salzberg, a Californian meditation expert, says that real love is when you pay complete attention to someone else. It sounds simple, as most contemplative instructions are, but it’s rare to receive that kind of attention. On retreat at the Cliffs of Moher, you not only feel that you’re being listened to but also that you’re listening more.

Now is probably a good time to explain the difference between a holiday and a retreat. If you ask me, and we’ll never know if you actually did because I’m not beside you on the airplane, all holidays are just frustrated retreats. If the purpose of a holiday is to rest and reset, then they rarely work as planned. In the race to make a hard-earned holiday memorable, we forget

to remember to relax.

“My wish is that people begin to connect with their relaxed self,” says Michelle, “that the retreat will help them slow down enough to remember a part of themselves.

But also, that there’s joy and fun. A good belly laugh is healing.”

It’s hard to put your finger on the exact type of person who goes on a yoga retreat, but whatever stereotype you have in your head right now, it’s probably wrong. Amongst the tall, thin bodies moving effortlessly, there are a lot us who’d fall into the category of won’t bend, don’t bend, can’t bend. The key, reiterated by Dearbhla and Michelle, is non-judgement – expansion into the contraction.

When my mother was growing up, going on retreat was as much a rite of passage as a J1 visa today. Historically, taking ourselves off to some damp, windswept shelter,

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5 MORE IRISH RETREATS ELBOWROOM ESCAPE At the foot of Lugnaquilla, in the Glen of Imaal, Lisa Wilkinson’s elbowroom – its eponymous mothership being in Stoneybatter, Dublin – is a retreat space focusing on yoga, hiking and sometimes even gin. They offer retreats for solo travellers, companies, friends and, wonders-never-cease, hen parties. Their guided-meditation nature walks sound like how all walking should be. (Donard, Co Wicklow, 083 183 8013; the-elbowroomescape.com) DZOGCHEN BEARA Built on the end of the Beara peninsula, Dzogchen Beara is a Tibetan Buddhist retreat in one of the most stunning locations in Ireland. You can visit and just join in the morning meditation or attend any of the one-day or longer retreats. Buddhists don’t believe in a god, but the views might just make you. (Garranes, Allihies, Co Cork, 027 73032; dzogchenbeara.org) GLENSTAL ABBEY The Benedictines have a sense of humour. You can come join them in Co Limerick and stay in a “God Pod”. These single-occupancy, self-catering spaces allow you to sample abbey life for a few nights and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. They recommend a minimum stay of three nights.

Enough time to get through to the big man, I suppose. (Garranbane, Murroe, Co Limerick, 061 621 000; glenstal.com/abbey)

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Clockwise from above left, vibrant dishes at dinner; fresh fennel growing in the nearby garden; yoga at sunrise.

with nothing more than rough blankets and ham sandwiches to sustain yourself, was the norm in Ireland. Thankfully, the new breed of retreat spaces is no longer bleak or severe, and the wind is strictly on the other side of the window. As a nation of rampant chatterers and incessant natterers, these periods of calm and reflection suit us.

They’re profoundly healing for women – and even big, brave men.

The Cliffs of Moher Retreat runs all year round and offer different themes and packages.

(Moher Lodge, Kinielty, Liscannor, Co Clare, 086 851 7710; cliffsofmoherretreat.com)

BREATHE WITH NÍALL Níall Ó Murchu is a Wim Hof instructor who runs courses at the Cliffs of Moher Retreat. The Wim Hof Method is a breathing exercise, combined with cold-exposure therapy, which delivers a huge range of benefits that include a stronger immune system and better mental health. If the idea of a short retreat with plenty of bang for your buck is more appealing, then his courses won’t disappoint. breathewithniall.com ARD NAHOO A multi award-winning yoga school and eco resort in Co Leitrim, Ard Nahoo is a family-run piece of paradise offering a range of retreat options, pampering weekends and holistic escapes for people trying to reconnect with their bodies and their sense of peace. Their “Healthy Hen” weekends are guaranteed, obscene straw-free events.

(Mullagh, Dromahair, Co Leitrim, 071 913 4939; ardnahoo.com)

Nature Green living. London’s new Linear Park is on your doorstep. Picnics and exercise in Battersea Park.

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BRIGHT ISLES

Think Florida, think Orlando theme parks, sprightly retirement communities and the bohemian Keys. No wonder the island communities of Boca Grande, Sanibel and Captiva are Florida’s best-kept secrets.

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS MATT MARRIOTT

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asparilla Island is a luxuriantly palmed sliver of a thing, whose total length is 11 kilometres, its width 1.6 kilometres. It’s one of a scatter of relatively undeveloped Floridian islands in the tourmaline-hued Gulf of Mexico, collectively populated by seashell hunters, wildlife watchers, competitive anglers and moguls seeking a lower tempo from the relentless hum of modern life. Indeed, Gasparilla’s size belies its economic might: it’s a holiday home haven for old and new money (the presidential Bushes have a property here), while retaining long-time, multigenerational locals who are now sitting on a goldmine.

The island is a three-hour drive from Orlando International Airport, via a causeway north of Fort Myers, and found major fortune in the 1880s, when a deepwater port, and later a railroad, supported a phosphate mining boom, which continued until the 1970s. Gasparilla became a magnet for wealthy Florida industrialists, tycoons and also “snowbirds” from America’s

FLORIDA

northeast, seeking sun, rum and sultry, salty air. And so it continues.

Happily, the Gasparilla Island Conservation District Act of 1980 forbids structures over 38 feet high and no more than five residential units per acre, which means that the island’s unofficial tagline of “Florida as it was meant to be” is fair and true. There are no high rises, no fast food chains, no retail franchises. It no longer has a railway and doesn’t even have a petrol station. Guests mostly pootle around on bikes and golf buggies – when they’re not on their yachts – the main road traffic being a crossing gopher tortoise or an iguana, whose own pace matches that of the island.

Boca Grande, Spanish for “big mouth”, is Gasparilla Island’s “downtown” and consists of a clutch of upscale souvenir and clothing boutiques, casual cafés and restaurants, minted estate agents and a grocery store signalled by a hot-pink 1950s petrol pump.

And you never have to travel far to find an empty beach: white-sand coastline stretches along the entire island’s Gulf side.

Opening pages, left, a fulsome signpost at South Beach Bar & Grille and, right, white picket fancies in Boca Grande. This page, top, for the birds on Bowman Beach, Sanibel and, above, presenting Gigi, the lucky possum at CROW rehab centre.

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At the southernmost tip is Gasparilla State Park, which includes a 19th-century lighthouse, a visitors’ centre and myriad wildlife: West Indian manatee, southern bald eagles, various terns, egret, pelicans and American oystercatchers. Below, Boca Grande Pass – the aforementioned big mouth – becomes a star attraction every summer, when tens of thousands of mighty tarpon shoal through Charlotte Harbor.

This annual migration climaxes with the World’s Richest Tarpon Tournament (bocagrandechamber.com) in June; a catchand-release competition. On Gasparilla Island you’ll see tarpon motifs everywhere, in fact, from residential mailboxes to shop facades. It’s the unofficial spirit animal, luring anglers from across the world. You won’t ever see the “Silver King” on any restaurant menu, though. Far more palatable are local snapper, grouper, mullet and redfish.

Another island centrepiece is the historic Gasparilla Inn and Club (gasparillainn.com; see “Travel Essentials” on page 72), which is so genteel it provides staying guests with dress codes for each of its bar and restaurants. For dinner at The Inn’s Dining Room: “Gentlemen must wear dress slacks and collared shirts for dinner. Jacket or tie is not required. Ladies apparel should always be comparable to the gentleman’s, such as blouses, skirts or slacks. Denim, shorts or tank tops are not permitted.” Despite the forbidding tone, the inn is a place of unbridled relaxation and where well-heeled, languid guests have been taking cocktails on its multiple porches since 1913: the DuPonts, Rockefellers, Astors, Thomas Edison, Henry Ford, JP Morgan, Theodore Roosevelt, Katharine Hepburn.

The inn’s season runs from October until the July 4 weekend, when its 137 rooms

This page, from top, bridge goals on Gasparilla Island; the gorgeous Gasparilla Inn, and its pretty interiors. Opposite, clockwise from top left, great gates in Boca Grande; shell on Earth on Bowman Beach; roots manoeuvre on Boca Grande’s Banyan Street; Jeremy Cunningham, The Temp’s garrulous bartender of 20 years.

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and conchs on the likes of Blind Pass and Bowman’s beaches. The island’s bounty of seashells is mind-boggling.

Sanibel’s other USP is wildlife conservation, with more than half of the island comprising protected, natural reserves. The largest is the JN “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge (fws.gov), where we spotted a bottlenose dolphin and her calf idling among the mangroves, some leaping mullet and beady-eyed egrets. (“Ding” was a Pulitzer-winning cartoonist and also a conservation activist until his death in the 1960s.)

There’s a more hands-on approach at the nearby Clinic for Rehabilitation of Wildlife (CROW; crowclinic.org) and

The island is best known for its “Sanibel Stoop”: the bent-over position of beachcombers hunting for shells

Top, aerial views over Island Inn in Sanibel and, above, the beautifully restored Gasparilla Island Lighthouse.

– including self-contained cottages – are open for business. It’s a charmed base for visiting the vigorously Instagrammed Banyan Street, where the eponymous Asian tree throws American Gothic shade. Cultural itches can be scratched at the Friends of Boca Grande Community Center (friendsofbocagrande.org), which hosts lectures, concerts and film screenings, and the gleaming Gasparilla Island Lighthouse (barrierislandparkssociety.org) is well worth climbing 134 steps for. Not only is the 360-degree view a treat but local volunteers explain the structure’s chequered history, starting in 1927. And there’s no better place for a dark and stormy than at The Temptation restaurant and bar (see “Travel Essentials” on page 72) – or, colloquially, The Temp. Oozing nostalgia, fantastic seafood and bar guests who are as garrulous as the bartenders, it is hands down the island’s best watering hole.

If Gasparilla Island has a whiff of an unpretentious but moneyed aunt, Sanibel – under two hours’ away – is its younger, conservationist sibling and best known for its “Sanibel Stoop”: the bent-over position of beachcombers hunting for junonia, angel wings, lightning whelks, nutmeg, scallops

education facility, which performs around six surgeries per week and offers guided tours. No sooner had we arrived than a local woman appeared with a discombobulated cormorant she’d found in the road, showing early signs of Red Tide toxicity (deadly concentrations of sea algae, thought to be exacerbated by agricultural runoff).

Fortunately, this bird proves to be one of thousands of native animals CROW releases back into the wild each year, from car-hit gopher tortoises to racoons and assorted amphibians. Forever-residents at the clinic include Gigi the possum and Lola the kestrel, whose injuries make them too vulnerable to be released.

Sanibel’s neighbouring Captiva Island, connected by a flyover, is also lush with protected, wildlife-rich reserves, punctuated with monumental summer homes at the end of long, winding driveways and bearing names such as Barefoot Way, Heaven Can Wait and Arcadia. Despite their considerable size, they’re infrequently showy. For all of Gasparilla, Sanibel and Captiva’s combined wealth, a holiday here feels low-key and inclusive. On these islands, it’s Mother Nature’s riches that are truly priceless.

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FLORIDA

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY

EAT

THROWBACK Dating back to 1913, Gasparilla Inn & Club is a vintage resort sat on more than 70 kilometres of land that includes a Pete Dye designed golf course, a beach club and spa, bakery, restaurants, motel and even a laundromat for long stays. The main house’s old-world glamour lingers in bright, chintzy prints, framed archive photos and a photogenic Neo-Classical entrance, which has had many iterations since it was first designed as the Hotel Boca Grande in 1911. Rooms from $285. (500 Palm Ave, Boca Grande, +1 877 764 1420; gasparillainn.com)

SUNDOWNER Prices at the casual South Beach Bar & Grille on Gasparilla Island more reflect its enviable beachfront location than any remarkable dishes or decor. Grab a table on the patio and watch the sun set while sharing a selection of boat-fresh starters and clinking cold beers. (760 Gulf Blvd, Boca Grande, +1 941 964 0765; southbeachbarandgrill.com)

BEACHFRONT Sanibel is Gasparilla and Captiva islands’ more affordable neighbour and the three-star historic Island Inn is great value for families looking for self-catering beachside lodgings. While the dark restaurant and bar have Butlin’s-of-yore vibes, cottages are light and modern, and the welcome is warm. Shelling experts provide free guided beach tours and there are hammocks aplenty for afternoon naps.

Two-bed beach cottages from $279.

(3111 West Gulf Drive, Sanibel, +1 800 851 5088; islandinnsanibel.com)

RETRO Gasparilla Island’s Temptation Restaurant is the sort of old-school joint where you could imagine Ernest Hemingway propping up the impossibly glossy bar counter – when it opens at 11am. “The Temp” dates back to the 1950s, including the restaurant’s handprinted mural, below, its original features in great nick. Food, too, is superb and the bar banter is lively. Super spot. (350 Park Ave, Boca Grande, +1 941 964 2610)

SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to ORLANDO up to four times per week.

KNOCKOUT While Sweet Melissa’s Café in Sanibel had scorchio competition from Gasparilla’s The Temp, it delivered the best meal of our trip by a mile. In contrast with the plethora of informal restaurants in southwest Florida, the cuisine here is refined and perfectly balanced, thanks to the talents of executive chef Melissa Donahue: my cobia sashimi (starter) and blackened redfish with crispy grits, collard greens sauerkraut and parsley and pecan brown butter (main) will live in the memory forever. Cocktails, too, were outstanding, concocted by a master bartender.

No wonder it was a James Beard Foundation semi-finalist in 2019. (1625 Periwinkle Way, Sanibel, +1 239 472 1956; sweetmelissascafe.com)

SMART TIPS NAVIGATION If you have time, take the longer route from Orlando International Airport to Boca Grande and cut through towns that time (and governments …) forgot. Some appear to be struggling, with residents living in trailers and tumbledown lodgings – but provide a wake-up call that Florida isn’t all theme-park gloss and gimmicks. (Tip: stay in an airport hotel on the night you arrive and start the drive first thing, when you’re bright-eyed and bushy-tailed.)

FUEL’S GOLD There are no petrol stations on Gasparilla Island so be sure to fill up before you cross the Boca Grande Causeway from the mainland. That said, once you’re on the island, you will be conserving fuel by mostly buzzing around on golf carts.

Visit our one-stop shop for all your package holiday needs via aerlingus. com. Find the perfect family holiday to the sun, romantic city break, unforgettable cruises and more.

A DAY AT TRINITY COLLEGE DUBLIN

P

assing from the hustle and bustle of Dublin’s city centre through the hallowed gates of Trinity College Dublin lies one of Ireland’s greatest cultural treasures, just waiting to be discovered.

The Book of Kells, a precious 9th century manuscript, is an exquisite combination of ornate Latin text and intricate illuminations depicting the four gospels of the New Testament.

Having scooped the prestigious TripAdvisor® Certificate of Excellence Hall of Fame award this year, a visit to the Book of Kells is a unique opportunity to become immersed in the rich history and cultural legacy of Ireland’s Medieval past, all in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

And with so much more to see and do at Trinity, it’s easy to while away a day at the famous university campus.

11AM

THE BOOK OF KELLS EXHIBITION & TRINITY GIFT SHOP

There is no time like the present to discover the past, so start your day right with a visit to one of Ireland’s greatest cultural treasures – hiding in plain sight within the depths of Trinity’s 18th century Old Library. The Book of Kells and its adjoining exhibition take visitors on an educational journey through the enigmatic early beginnings of Christianity in Western Europe.

The book is a masterwork of Western calligraphy, employing extraordinarily rich and colourful decoration across its 680 pages.

Learn about how the world’s most famous Medieval manuscript was made and the intricate symbolism behind its beautiful illustrations. Afterwards, step

inside the breath-taking Long Room library to marvel at the barrel-vaulted ceiling, shelves lined with ancient tomes, and the statues of celebrated writers, philosophers and scientists that punctuate the space. What’s more, monies raised through your visit to the Book of Kells help fund Trinity’s ongoing mission of education and research. Tickets can be booked online at bookofkells.ie.

Top off your visit to Ireland’s most famous tome with a browse through the Trinity Gift Shop, which features an exquisite collection of giftware, homewares, jewellery and accessories, all designed to capture the rich history and magic of the Book of Kells and Trinity.

From classic college sweaters and baseball caps to accessories featuring some of the book’s most iconic illustrations, there is a keepsake for everyone in store.

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For something extra special, look out for the range of exclusive collaborations with renowned Irish brands, including Avoca Handweavers and Newbridge Silverware. Full details of the collection can be found at trinitygiftshop.ie.

12.30PM

SCIENCE GALLERY DUBLIN

Next, take a short walk across campus to discover innovation of a thoroughly modern variety at Science Gallery Dublin. A world first, the venue aims to thrash out today’s white-hot scientific issues and explores how art and science collide. It features an ever-changing programme of exhibitions and events fuelled by the creative expertise of scientists, researchers, artists and inventors alike. For details of current and upcoming exhibitions visit sciencegallery.ie.

1.30PM

LUNCH AT THE BUTTERY RESTAURANT

After a busy morning exploring campus, rest your legs and refuel at The Buttery, Trinity’s main restaurant.

Situated in the heart of Trinity’s front square, the restaurant offers a welcome reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Dublin’s city centre. The Buttery offers a wide range of food choices and features a made to order deli, hot

dishes and a salad bar, and is open from 7.30am to 4.00pm Monday to Thursday, and 7.30am to 3.00pm on Fridays.

Alternatively, check out Trinity 1592 Restaurant, the university’s formal dining option, or the Perch Café for some light bites and fresh coffee.

2.30PM

TRINITY ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM

In the afternoon, leapfrog over to Trinity’s fascinating Zoological Museum. From humble beginnings since its formation in 1777, its rare collection now contains many examples of extinct and endangered species, including Ireland’s Last Great Auk, Mammoth and Giant Irish Deer remains. The museum’s collection of specimens is unmatched by any other Irish university and is a vital teaching and research resource for students of Natural Sciences at Trinity.

The collection is open to the public from June to August.

5PM

SPEND THE NIGHT AT TRINITY

You can experience the magic of Trinity at night by extending your visit with an overnight

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stay during the summer months. Its city centre accommodation options include distinctive heritage bedrooms and apartments, plus a collection of modern apartments. Centrally located in Dublin’s main shopping quarter and near all transport links, Trinity College is the perfect place to call home during your stay in Dublin. Check in to one of Trinity’s well-appointed bedrooms before sampling the colourful nightlife of Dublin’s fair city. Accommodation is available on campus from the end of May until late August annually.

A visit to Trinity College Dublin is a truly memorable experience. For more information on your visit, tcd.ie/visitors.

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10 BEST SNOW SPOTS From ice fishing to star spotting, Catherine Murphy raises a mitten to a blizzard of winter activities.

1 MIDI-PYRÉNÉES FRANCE

Those in search of pure, unadulterated dark skies, free of light pollution, should consider staying at Pic du Midi (picdumidi.com), an observatory hotel at an ascent of 2,877 metres. From there – France’s first International Dark Sky Reserve – soak up views of the Milky Way and then some; if the time is right, you may even see the Northern Lights. Test your head for heights a little more on the impressive 12-metre-long glass “pontoon in the sky” and ski the off-piste route down to La Mongie. darksky.org Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toulouse three times per week.

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SNOW SPOTS

If you’re charmed by the fact that a “Loppet” is a gathering of cross-country skiers embarking on a long distance race, you might want to check out the Great Northern Festival (thegreatnorthernfestival.com) in Minneapolis-St Paul this January 23 to February 2, 2020, which incorporates the St Paul Winter Carnival, the City of Lakes Loppet and US Pond Hockey Championships. An all-agesinclusive celebration of winter, it features skijoring, ice carving, curling, snow art, and food and drinks sideshows.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Minneapolis-St Paul up to seven times per week.

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICK LEIFERMAN, COURTESY OF MEET MINNEAPOLIS

2 MINNEAPOLIS-ST PAUL USA

4 BIG BEAR USA Ski or snowboard at Big Bear Mountain Resort in the morning and go surfing in Santa Monica in the afternoon … No wonder they call it the “California Double”.

A 2.5-hour drive from LAX – well, infamous Los Angeles traffic permitting – with Santa Monica around the same, Big Bear, in the San Bernardino Mountains, is a hot favourite for adrenaline junkies with a penchant for both powder and Pacific Ocean swell. It’s a big hit with families, too. bigbearmountainresort.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles six times per week.

The tiny village of St Nicolas de Véroce is perched above St Gervais and has enviable access to the Évasion Mont-Blanc ski area. After hitting the slopes, hunker down at L’Armancette (armancette.com), a five-star hotel with romantic views of Mont Blanc and the Dômes de Miage from its luxurious spa. Dining at La Table d’Armante restaurant is also mighty fine. Rooms from €270.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Geneva up to ten times per week.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VISITCALIFORNIA.CO.UK

3 ST GERVAIS-LES-BAINS FRANCE

SNOW SPOTS

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5 LAKE BRIENZ SWITZERLAND

With the snow-capped peaks of the Bernese Oberland and crisp, clear skies as a backdrop, kayaking on Lake Brienz provides a dramatic pause worth savouring. Put on a dry suit, start paddling and enter a world of glistening water and silence with Hightide Kayak School (hightide.ch), who offer guided trips. Then, on dry land, access some of the most special skiing in Switzerland via Interlaken to Murren, Wengen and Grindelwald. madeinbern.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Zürich up to 11 times per week.

6 VIENNA AUSTRIA If donning salopettes would cramp your style, succumb to the lower-altitude magic of ice-skating on the Wiener Eistraum (Vienna Ice World) on Rathausplatz. There are 9,000 square metres of ice, including a terrace for paying adults and a free area for beginners and children. Afterwards, reward yourself with eismarillenknödel – apricot dumplings – at Tichy, the café which invented the dish, or walk through the city for hot chocolate in the famous Café Demel. wien.info Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna daily.

7 MELCHSEE-FRUTT SWITZERLAND Located 2,000 metres above sea level, in the mountain- and lakes-locked Melchsee-Frutt valley, tell friends you’ve “gone fishing” instead of “gone skiing”.

Local fisherman Gusti Berchtold takes great pleasure in sharing the experience of ice fishing at altitude, where native trout and char are there for the angling (CHF 50 pp). Wrap up warm, drill a hole in the ice and patiently wait; meanwhile guests of the Hotel Frutt Lodge and Spa (fruttlodge.ch) can have their fresh catch cooked by the chef (CHF 20). melchsee-frutt.ch Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Zürich up to 11 times per week.

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SNOW SPOTS

9 ABRUZZO ITALY

From the beautiful old village of Pescasseroli, embark on a threeday tour of Abruzzo National Park in central Italy, tracking wolves during sunrise and sunset hikes (wildlifeadventures.it). Around eight packs roam the Apennines and as well as learning about their system of living on these guided trails, you might get lucky and hear them howling beneath crystal clear, star-lit skies. Three-night half-board packages start at €220 and why not combine this unique wilderness experience with some piste action at Roccaraso ski resort? skiabruzzo.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Rome daily.

8 ZELL AM SEE AUSTRIA

This winter, Zell am See’s appeal rises with a new lift link to the Saalbach area, creating the largest ski region in Austria, with 408 kilometres of slopes accessible with the ALPIN lift pass. Other diversions include skiing off-piste on the Kitzsteinhorn glacier above Kaprun, horse-drawn sleigh rides through Zell am See’s Medieval centre and hot-air balloon rides above magical frozen lakes. zellamsee-kaprun.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna daily.

10 VAL D’ARAN SPAIN Catalonia’s Val d’Aran is home to 33 villages, where unique cultural histories and spectacular scenery await. For tasty tapas – and a chocolate-box, 12th-century church – stay in Arties, while Baqueira-Beret is a great option for parents and children thanks to its 160 kilometres of family-friendly ski slopes: stay at the contemporary Hotel Himálaia (himalaiabaqueira.com). For livelier nights, stay in Vielha and take the ski bus up to Baqueira-Beret each morning.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toulouse three times per week.

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While Brussels city centre teems with tourists in search of festive cheer, head to its bounty of enlightening museums.

WORDS BRIDGET HOURICAN PHOTOGRAPHS CARINA OKULA

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T

he 44 tram in Brussels has yet to make the official lists of “best tram journeys in Europe” but it’s up there with the iconic Tram 68 in Berlin, #28 in Lisbon, #2 in Budapest (yep, I’ve tried them all). The 44 runs along the Avenue de Tervuren, the eight-kilometre boulevard that Leopold II created in 1897, which is book-ended by two magnificent buildings – the Arc du Cinquantenaire and the Neoclassical palace that houses the Museum of Central Africa, now rebranded as the AfricaMuseum (africamuseum.be) and recently reopened after a five-year renovation.

The 20-minute tram journey is beautifully unchanged from when I used to take it in my 1980s Brussels school days: on at Montgomery, past the lavish villas flying embassy flags, the Viennese Secessionstyle Palais Stoclet (closed to the public

BRUSSELS

but what an exterior), the slopes and lakes of Woluwe Park, where we skated and tobogganed through the cold Bruegel winters, on through the ancient woods of the Forêt de Soignes, past Quatre Bras, where Wellington’s troops fought a preliminary skirmish before Waterloo, and on to the terminus at Tervuren Park.

If the journey is unchanged, AfricaMuseum is remade. As kids, our chief interest was the taxidermy; I recall lions gazing glassily out of exhibition cases and cartoonish tribal figures brandishing spears. The lions are still here but now they crouch on the exhibition cases and the embarrassingly rendered figures – 20thcentury Belgian creations – have been banished to the basement. The freed lions seem like a metaphor for the light, space and modernity transforming the museum.

Still, there is no getting away from the fact that AfricaMuseum’s whole

Opening pages, left, the imperious Palais Stoclet – where Gustav Klimt’s Stoclet Frieze delights interior walls, however the palace is currently closed to the public, and, right, on the rails at Train World. This page, halcyon comfort and golden light at the Van Buuren Museum, rich in Art Deco detail.

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Winter Overnight Escape

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One nights bed and hearty Irish breakfast for two people to include dinner in the 2AA Rosette award winning Snaffles Restaurant From €110 pps at the Lodge From €140 pps at the Castle

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BRUSSELS

magnificent – and now wonderfully presented – collection of masks, sculptures, urns, weapons, tools, drums, skins, rugs, animals and insects comes out of an horrific history of colonial atrocity. (The tram journey is part of the story: Congo plunder paid for Avenue de Tervuren.) Despite the museum’s sincere efforts to re-engage with its past, commentary on this is a bit stifled. Its most successful innovation is the excellent artwork commissioned from contemporary Congolese artists and the compelling digital platforms and videos. These succeed in shifting the atmosphere and opening out a conversation.

The Tram Museum (trammuseum. brussels), opposite Woluwe Park, used to be part of our 44 trip but its winter opening hours are erratic and, in any case, it has been superseded by Train World (trainworld.be), which opened four years ago and is next on my trail of suburban museums. The only right way to get to Train World is ... by train. Schaerbeek station is a 15-minute ride from the city centre and under the B-Excursion initiative you can buy

a combined return fare and museum entry: €16.90 from Brussels Centrale.

Whether your interest is engines, art or the Golden Age of Travel, you will find something to love in Train World’s renovated 19th-century station and attached 8,000-square-metre industrial hangar.

Steam engines, royal wagons, a postal car, a restaurant carriage and the 1844 Pays de Waes, Europe’s oldest preserved locomotive, are some of the 22 locomotives on display, together with signals, tracks, posters, films, a real railway cottage and a steel railway bridge. You can get inside the cockpits, fiddle with the controls and drive a virtual train in a simulator.

In Brussels, you are never far from art and even Train World is no exception, its current exhibition, Paul Delvaux, the man who loved trains (until March 15), commemorates the 25th anniversary of the Belgian Surrealist’s death. Delvaux loved trains so much that he was appointed honorary station master in Louvain-la-Neuve and trains steam through his mysterious paintings, as evidenced by the titles – L’Age

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de fer (1952), Le voyage légendaire (1974) and the iconic La Gare forestière (1960), all on show here.

Another significant art anniversary is marked by 2019 – 450 years since the death of Pieter Bruegel the Elder, Belgium’s greatest painter. With most exhibitions continuing into 2020, there’s no avoiding him.

I’d advise skipping the pricey “immersive 3D” experiences in the Mont des Arts and the Atomium, unless you’re going there anyway, since the “Bruegel Box” in the Royal Museum of Fine Arts (fine-arts-museum. be) is the best digital Bruegel experience in town and is included in the price of your €10 ticket into the Old Masters permanent collection, where you’ll find five original

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BRUSSELS

Previous pages, left, Congolese artist Aimé Mpane’s sculpture Nouveau souffle ou le Congo bourgeonnant sits in the Great Rotunda of the AfricaMuseum and, right, the Konink Bibliotheque on the Mont des Arts.

This page, there’s an elephant in the room at AfricaMuseum ... poor old King Kasai, in fact, who was shot and imported to Brussels for the infamous Expo 58, which also presented a “Human Zoo” of Congolese families.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BRUSSELS up to 14 times per week.

Bruegel paintings (there are only 40 in the world), including the masterpiece Landscape with the Fall of Icarus.

The Royal Library on Mont des Arts, aka KBR (kbr.be), has all 60 surviving Bruegel prints and is showcasing them, together with three exquisite drawings, in an excellent exhibition, The World of Bruegel in Black and White (admission €12, until February 16).

For an off-piste Bruegel experience – and another suburban tram ride, on lines 3 or 4 to Churchill – head to the Van Buuren Museum (museumvanbuuren.be) in the leafy suburb of Uccle to see the “other version” of The Fall of Icarus – the one with Dedalus in the sky. This was recently downgraded from an original to an early copy, but the Van Buuren is Brussels’ answer to New York’s Frick and London’s John Soane’s Museum – an exquisite private house where you can see the collector’s art in the setting designed for it.

David Van Buuren, a banker, and his wife Alice created their house in the 1920s as

a “total work of art”. Unusually for Brussels – a city of Art Nouveau – the interior is a masterpiece of Art Deco, all geometric shapes, highly polished wood, abstract stained glass and bronze chandeliers. Its discreet opulence showcases a remarkable art collection of mostly early 20th-century Belgian and Dutch painters – including Ensor, Van Dongen, Rik Wouters and a Van Gogh sketch. The Gardens are the other attraction. Designed by landscape architect Jules Buyssens and restored in 2009, the 1.2 hectares include slopes, rockeries, terraces, a wetland, a stream, a rose garden and a maze.

The Van Buuren only opens in the afternoon (2pm-5.30pm). It being winter, you might find yourself, like me, twisting through the maze in lengthening shadows – an evocative end to this discovery trail of les environs de Bruxelles. Take the tram back to the centre and emerge at the Bourse/Beurs to join the happy throng: the Boulevard Anspach, a major traffic artery in my day, is now pedestrianised.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY

EAT

SMART TIPS

LUXURY Just behind the Grand Place, the Hotel Amigo is now part of the Rocco Forte chain of luxury hotels and where you’ll be woken by the cooing chimes of Medieval bells. Expect proper plush comfort: every one of the 173 rooms has a huge bed and bathtub, while prime ministers, presidents and rock stars stay in the enormous Presidential and Royal suites, adding a frisson of celebrity-watching to any stay.

Rooms from €290. (Rue de l’Amigo, +32 2 547 4747; roccofortehotels.com)

COFFEE Brussels has a legacy of rather thin, acrid coffee, but that’s changing. The popular Ethiopian coffee house, Aksum, has moved from a back street to Galerie du Roi, so you can enjoy Europe’s oldest glass arcades with your smooth roast (3 Galerie du Roi, aksumcoffeehouse.com). For hipsters, there’s MOK in the up-and-coming canal district. Very good, small vegan menu.

(196 Rue Antoine Dansaertstraat, +32 495 316 718; mokcoffee.be)

NAVIGATION The quickest, cheapest way from the airport to Central Brussels is by train – six every hour, serving all the main stations: €8.90, journey takes around 25 minutes. If you’re staying in the European Quarter, bus 12 meanders but eventually drops you at Schuman and Trône. A taxi to the centre is €50 and takes 25 minutes off-peak.

BOUTIQUE Brother and sister Martin and Mélanie Decateau, with the help of their interior designer mother, refurbished this townhouse into Made in Louise, a boutique hotel of 48 rooms in the eponymous Art Nouveau and upmarket shopping district (short metro/tramride to centre). The decor is chic throughout and rooms are of varying sizes reflected in the prices – you can get a single loft room from €76. Service very friendly, in keeping with the family vibe.

(Rue Veydt 40, +32 2 537 4033; madeinlouise.com) ARTY Also in the Louise district, Zoom Hotel isn’t your average accommodation – over 400 photographs adorn the walls as well as old cameras, projectors and lenses, creating an optically amusing atmosphere.

It also features local artists’ work in each room as well as a rotating programme of photographic exhibitions, while the buffet breakfast is a mouth-watering medley of freshly squeezed juices, fresh pastries and a generous charcuterie selection. And, in true Belgian fashion, be sure to sample its gigantic beer menu. Rooms from €65. (Rue de la Concorde 59, +32 251 50060; zoomhotel.be)

LATE-NIGHT It’s important to know somewhere that serves until midnight, especially if you’re arriving on the later flight.

Au Vieux Saint Martin is a classic brasserie on Place du Sablon with consistently high standards in Belgian specialities – cheese croquettes, herrings, chicory, pigs’ trotters, steak tartare. (38 Place du Grand Sablon, +32 2 512 6476; auvieuxsaintmartin.be) FOODIE In a former Art Nouveau butcher shop – polished tiles and hanging meathooks – La Buvette arrived in St Gilles in 2010, under chef Nicholas Scheidt. Two tasting menus – five courses for €49 or eight courses for €64 – change depending on season, although the signature spinach, ricotta and black sesame is always on.

Interesting dishes with a Japanese slant, and lively natural wines. Let them know your dietary requirements in advance. Get seating downstairs if you can. (108 Chaussée d’Alsemberg, +32 2 534 1303; la-buvette.be)

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ELEGANT In-room coffee pod machines, spacious wet-room showers and breakfast served until noon on Sundays – it’s the small touches that raise NH Collection Brussels Grand Sablon. Plus solid service, an excellent location in the antiques district, close to the Grand Place, and a great buffet breakfast that includes delicately smoked fish and omelettes made to order. Excellent restaurant, Hispania Brussels, below right, too. Rooms from €198. (Rue Bodenbroek 2, +32 2 518 1100; nh-hotels.com)

RUMBLE IN THE JUMBLE Belgians are obsessive collectors and recyclers. They were hipsters avant la lettre, which makes Brussels a treasure trove of vintage and rare junk, especially vinyl, books, comics, CDs and bric-a-brac. The Jeu de Balle street market on Saturday mornings (get there early) and the Aladdin’s cave Pêle Mêle stores in the centre and Ixelles (pele-mele. be) are the obvious places to start, but all along Boulevard Maurice Lemonnier, Rue du Midi and Rue du Flandre, keep an eye out for quirk. For second-hand or discounted designer clothes, the DOD empire (dod.be) now stretches to seven stores and counting and includes kids and menswear.

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WHITE MAGIC

Monochrome landscapes and muffled footsteps … snow scenes are like catnip to photographer Joe Laverty, who here shares some of his favourite winter wonderlands.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS JOE LAVERTY

G

ive me snow-covered hills over sun-kissed beaches any day. As a child, I loved waking up to snow – even a hard frost would quicken my heart rate.

I’ve been taking winter trips all around Europe for years.

January and February might seem like an odd time for a holiday or a city break … but I need my sub-zero fix, especially if Ireland is having one of its infamous “mild winters”. The French Alps are an obvious choice – and for good reason – but I’ve had some wonderfully icy odysseys to parts of Germany, the Czech Republic, the Netherlands, the Pyrenees, to name a few. A Scandinavian trip is definitely on the cards.

As a photographer, there is an inherent challenge in shooting snow-white scenes. Often the sky seems to drift on to the land, making it hard to find contrast – and the colour palette is often monotone. The exhilaration and inspiration of being enveloped in cold, crisp air, however, along with the serene silence only a blanket of snow can enable, help with these challenges. It seems perverse, coming from Ireland, a country where rain, mist and fog are the norm, but I feel strangely at home in knee-deep snow and temperatures on the southside of -10°c.

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SNOWSCAPES

Previous page, Bavaria’s Neuschwanstein Castle. This Disney-like creation from the 19th century, rising up through the Alpine foothills, is a surreal sight, but the romance of the view from Marienbrücke is worth the climb. This page, above, Ormeau Park, Belfast – my local park and one of my favourite spots in Belfast. It doesn’t snow a lot here, so it was a treat to document it with its white coat on. I especially love the criss-crossing, snow-tipped pine branches in this shot. Opposite, France’s Val-d’Isère.

I’d just been skiing through a heavy ‘white-out’ – barely able to see the tips of my skis – when suddenly the sun started to poke through the dense snow clouds and the shadows returned.

SNOWSCAPES

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Opposite, Ischgl, in Austria. The hotel where I was staying looked straight onto the last stretch of ski slope. It was so steep the skiers looked like lemmings, slowly dropping through the flat, white light. Above, the snowy walk up to Neuschwanstein Castle is filled with suspense, as the castle flickers into view intermittently through the frosted trees.

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SNOWSCAPES

Above, Slieve Binnian in the Mourne Mountains, Co Down. Binnian is one of the sweetest spots on the whole island of Ireland. This scene looks peaceful and serene, but I recall passing the summit on my hands and knees, it was so windy that day ...

Luxury. Relaxed.

Overlooking 26,000 acres of Killarney’s National Park and Ireland’s highest mountain range, The 5* Europe Hotel & Resort lies on the shores of Killarney’s famous lakes on The Ring of Kerry. Guests enjoy complimentary onsite horse riding, indoor tennis and access to the Active Level of ESPA at The Europe which includes 20m indoor pool, outdoor vitality pool, salt water pool, sauna, steam room and lifestyle showers.

Rooms With A View

Unrivalled Spa Experience

Elegant Dining Options

Elegant accommodation, comprising of 187 bedrooms and suites, mostly with private balconies, entices serene relaxation overlooking Ireland’s finest views.

ESPA at The Europe, a stunning 50,000 sq. ft. multi award-winning resort spa on the shores of Killarney’s Loch Lein, captures the beauty and serenity of this incredibly enchanting corner of Ireland.

5 indoor and al-fresco dining venues & 2 bars offer sweeping views across the lakes, mountains, gardens and national park.

A Stay With Us Stays With You Forever The Europe Hotel & Resort, Fossa, Killarney, Co. Kerry, Ireland. Tel. +353 64 66 71300

www.theeurope.com

Email. reservations@theeurope.com

Discover our store at 114 Grafton Street

5 IRISH INDULGENCES ’Tis the season for splurging – Nicola Brady luxuriates in fulsome staycations.

1 BREAC.HOUSE, CO DONEGAL If you’re an interior design maven, you’ll adore Breac.House. This Modernist guesthouse is up in the wilds of Donegal, so you can snuggle up under a hand-woven tweed blanket and gaze out over the Atlantic. There’s a woodfired sauna in the garden and the exceptional breakfast is served up on specially designed local pottery. Rooms from €275, minimum two nights. breac.house

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IRISH INDULGENCES

2 BALLYFIN, CO LAOIS You can’t talk about Irish luxuries without thinking of Ballyfin. Walking into this seriously swish country house feels like stepping behind a velvet rope, with lavish furniture, copious antiques and chandeliers aplenty. But it’s all yours to enjoy, so flop on a golden sofa by the roaring fire and pretend you’re Lord or Lady of the Manor. Rooms from €580. ballyfin.com

3 THE MERCHANT HOTEL, BELFAST

When it comes to gastronomy, you can’t beat Belfast. Eat your way around the city’s excellent restaurants, such as OX, Deanes EIPIC and the city’s newest recipient of a Michelin star, The Muddlers Club. The Merchant hotel is seriously plush and a nightcap in the Cocktail Bar is as decadent as they come.

Rooms from £160. themerchanthotel.com

A German/Irish school with a European culture and spirit for pupils aged 4-18

St. Kilian’s German School is located on an expansive campus in south Dublin. We welcome children of all nationalities, cultures and religions. Pupils learn German from Kindergarten (Junior Infants) up to Leaving Certificate in a diverse and inclusive environment.

Our approach combines the best of the Irish and German education. Knowledge of German is not a requirement to enrol at St. Kilian’s.

Contact us to arrange a visit.

St. Kilian’s Deutsche Schule Dublin/Eurocampus Roebuck Road, Clonskeagh, Dublin D14 P7F2 T +353 (0)1 288 3323 E admissions@kilians.com www.kilians.com

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4 WALDEN LAKEHOUSE, CO WESTMEATH Cast aside

any memories of shoddy self-catering cottages because this two-bed is an absolute dreamboat. With mid-century furnishings, a vintage cocktail cart and a deep, roll-top bath overlooking the lake, this is the house of your wildest fantasies.

Stock the fridge with local organic treats from Lowe & Co in Athlone. From £895 for four nights midweek or a two-night weekend. uniquehomestays.com

5 DUNBOYNE CASTLE HOTEL & SPA, CO MEATH

Seoíd Spa nabbed a top prize at the 2019 World Luxury Spa Awards, making it a must for wellness buffs. There are three floors to explore, with an extensive thermal suite (complete with fancy heated loungers) and a wide range of therapies, from seaweed wraps to Hawaiian massage. Rooms from €135. dunboynecastlehotel.com

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48 HOURS

48 HOURS IN

MALAGA

Don’t overlook this sun-soaked, open-air-museum of a city that’s the cultural hub of Andalucía and the birthplace of Picasso. Amanda Cassidy reveals its many charms.

DON’T MISS HIGH LIFE Three thousand years’ worth of Roman, Moorish and Christian genius is etched into the polished cobbles of this historically hybrid city. Get lost on purpose amongst the turrets of the domineering Alcazaba Fortress perched along the trail to Gibralfaro Castle.

The summit of this part-military base, part-Arabian palace rewards ambitious legs with apricot-coloured views over Málaga’s horizon of jagged spires.

(Calle Alcazabilla 2, +34 630 932 987) HABLO PICASSO Among the world’s oldest cities, Málaga’s artistic history is often side-lined ahead of its position as tourist gateway to the Costa del Sol. But even non-art aficionados recommend Museo Picasso Málaga, located in the tangle of lanes near the Plaza Merced.

Delve into the artist’s eclectic career and gain a fascinating glimpse into the mind of the city’s most famous son. (Palacio de Buenavista Calle San Agustín 8, +34 952 127 600; museopicassomalaga.org) TUMBLING VINES Allow a full morning to appreciate the magical La Concepción botanical gardens, just 8km north of the city centre. This lush oasis, set across 23 hectares of forest walkways, is all palms and birdsong, citrus scents and water features. But the real showstopper is the 150-year-old wisteria arbour. Its billowy purple-pink magnificence reaches peak beauty in and around March/April. (Camino del Jardín Botánico 3, +34 951 926 179; laconcepcion.malaga.eu)

EAT

Clockwise from above, find wow-factor wisteria at La Concepción botanical gardens; experience light and shadow at Muelle Uno; a side view of the turreted Alcazaba Fortress, en route to Gibralfaro Castle; cool off in Anantara’s inviting turquoise swimming pool; check out the culinary chops at La Deriva; chill out at the bombastic El Pimpi bar.

BOHO For a memorable meal in a city partly responsible for Southern Spain’s gastronomic Renaissance, the cheerful Casa Lola is worth the queue. Tucked behind shuttered streets in the Old Town, here you’ll eat elbow-to-elbow with Malagueños. Try the bacalao ahumado (smoked cod) and pepito lola (Iberian ham), then people-watch over steaming paella under the prettiest canopy of fairy lights. (Calle Granada 46, +34 952 223 814; tabernacasalola.com) GRILLSVILLE Drift from the Medieval monuments, past the marble-paved shopping streets and towards the soft sand of Málaga’s oldest fishing neighbourhoods, to try espeto de sardinas (skewers of fried and salted Mediterranean sardines). By the seafront at Pedregalejo, you’ll find family-run Chiringuito Gutierrez Playa, where the quality is exceptional and prices reasonable.

Delightful pre-siesta, toes-in-the-sand dining.

(Calle Pacífico 29, +34 952 118 908) CROWD-PLEASER A laid-back spot with serious culinary appeal, La Deriva is a terraced bistro with an extensive wine list (more than 200 to choose from) and some wacky tapas fusion. Experiment with silky saffron risotto, Galician lobster or beef tenderloin tacos. Wonky-wood furniture and guitar-jamming locals make for an authentic and atmosphere-laden Andalucían fiesta.

(Alameda de Colón 7, +34 638 086 529; laderiva.es)

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DRINK BODEGA Sip a glass of Málaga Virgen (sweet wine made from local Pedro Ximénez grapes) at the bombastic El Pimpi. Overlooking a Roman amphitheatre, this bar winds warrenlike into a barrel-filled den decorated with historic feria posters. Its signed wall of fame includes the swirls of Antonio Banderas and some of the Picasso family. Come for the wine, stay for the heavy-on-the garlic gazpacho. (Calle Granada 62, +34 952 225 403; elpimpi.com)

STAY NOOK Down a small alley in the heart of the city, Petit Palace Plaza is located on the corner of Larios Street, one of the busiest shopping nubs. This dusty-pink, four-star hotel, run by charming staff and just steps from the main cathedral, offers 66 spacious, family-friendly rooms. The beach is a 15-minute walk away and guests can avail of free bicycle rental. Rooms from €71. (Calle Nicasio Calle 3, +34 952 222 132; petitpalace.com) TRENDY With a finca-meets-New Yorkloft vibe, Room Mate Valeria overlooks the revamped marina in the trendy, yet down-to-earth, Soho District. Its dazzling Art Deco inspired design and clubby rooftop bar make it a fashionable spot for discerning travellers. Expect sustainable ethics (staff uniforms are made from recycled plastic) and no-nonsense pricing.

Rooms from €135. (Plaza Poeta Alfonso Canales 5, +34 952 060 401; room-matehotels.com) OPULENCE Further towards yachtfilled Marbella, the lavish Anantara Villa Padierna Palace sits among three award-winning golf courses. A sculpturefilled lobby, lined with Italian architectural prints, opens into a fountain-fringed pool courtyard. Indulge in the signature massage at its glorious five-star spa and don’t miss the outstanding fine dining by two Michelin-star chef Paco Roncero.

This is a true VIP (Michelle Obama is a fan) haven. Rooms from €215.

(Urbanización Los Flamingos Golf, Carretera de Cádiz, Marbella, +34 952 889 150; anantara.com)

SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MÁLAGA up to twice daily and from Cork three times per week.

SUNDOWNERS Stroll towards the tree-lined promenade of Muelle Uno Marina beside the landmark lighthouse La Farola, one of Spain’s oldest. This once down-at-heel port is now a stylish shopping hub. On the second Sunday of each month, El Zoco market sells handmade crafts and local produce.

Afterwards, grab a bucketful of icy beers (cubos) at the nautical-inspired Cervecería la Sureña. (Calle Muelle 1, +34 902 197 494; lasurena.es) GLITTERATI Upscale, trend-hunter hangout Terraza de Larios, on the fifth floor of Mate Larios Hotel, offers a dazzling panorama of the golden skyline. Sip ice-laden Aperol Spritz with a gargoyle’s-eye view of the mighty La Manquita Cathedral (translated as “onearmed lady”, because of its unfinished tower).

Packed at weekends, this buzzy rooftop bar is cool in all the right places. (Calle Marqués de Larios 2, +34 952 222 200; roommatehotels.com)

24 Fitzwilliam LOCATION

TRANSPORT

Next door to Glandore’s flagship location, Fitzwilliam Hall, 24 Fitzwilliam Place is perfectly situated in the heart of Dublin 2, making it an ideal spot for companies looking to focus on development, making it optimal for solopreneurs, FDI or professional services companies.

Just a short walk from the Grand Canal train station and Charlemont Luas station, and close to the Aircoach to the airport and N11 bus route, this location is easily accessible. It is also adjacent to one of the main Dublin Bike racks, for those who prefer to cycle.

SPACE

With original Georgian detailing, mid-century design elements and a soothing colour palette, 24 Fitzwilliam Place combines tradition and function to offer versatile and inspiring workspaces.

24 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2 info@glandore.ie | +353 (0)1 669 4700 | glandore.ie

BUSINESS

NEW YORK

110

NEXUS NEW YORK Business in New York City is often a high-octane affair, yet some deals happen in the most unlikely of places.

Fionn Davenport plugs into the network.

P

erhaps more than anywhere else on Earth, Manhattan is about business. Born on the back of arguably the world’s most famous real estate deal, where a Dutch trader bought the island from Native Americans for 60 guilders (around $1,200 in today’s money), New York City flexes massive financial muscle.

This is an economic dynamo where eye-wateringly big deals are commonplace. Last year, a midtown penthouse sold for $85 million – with two Rolls-Royces, a Lamborghini, a 75-foot yacht and two tickets on a Virgin Galactic space flight thrown in for good measure. Virtually every global brand is represented here and of the 230,000 small businesses spread about the city, almost 50 per cent are owned by foreignborn New Yorkers, many of whom

think nothing of putting in 80-hour weeks to thrive in the city that doesn’t sleep.

The result is a robust infrastructure designed around promoting business, which means lots of conference space and innovative venues for hosting events – from industrial warehouses and museums to theatres and botanical greenhouses. But don’t forget the street itself. Many a deal has been sealed over coffee and a doughnut from one of the city’s innumerable mobile carts that are found on almost every corner.

SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to New York daily.

GET SMART ARRIVALS John F Kennedy International Airport in Queens welcomes 60 million passengers a year and is finally getting the refurb it desperately needs. Taxis cost a flat $52, excluding tolls, tip and rush-hour surcharge.

Equally convenient for Manhattan is Newark Liberty International, which is 26 kilometres from downtown, in New Jersey. NJ Transit buses and trains connect the airport with various locations in New York City. A taxi will cost around $50.

WORK IT Need somewhere to run the rule over a spreadsheet or do some on-the-road office work? The Farm in SoHo is an open loft space designed like a barn but with super-fast connectivity, meeting rooms and private booths for phone calls.

Day passes cost $29 and there are two other locations in Manhattan.

(447 Broadway, between Howard & Grand, +1 917 722 5027; thefarmsoho.com)

BUSINESS

111

EAT IN RESIDENCE Housed in a Nolita building that fans might recognise from the TV series Will & Grace, the Chef’s Club is a fancy version of the supper club concept.

Here, stars of the culinary world, such as Éric Fréchon of Le Bristol in Paris and Daniel Burns of Noma, take up residency for weeks at a time and turn out their signature dishes or tasting menus. (275 Mulberry St, +1 212 941 1100; chefsclub.com)

CELESTIAL You’ll want to put aside the guts of four hours for the dining experience at Eleven Madison Park, but your reward is ten courses of brilliantly creative and whimsical food by chef Daniel Humm, whose almost pathological attention to detail has bagged three Michelin stars. If that’s too much effort, there’s a fivecourse menu in the bar. (11 Madison Ave, +1 212 889 0905; elevenmadisonpark.com)

POSH With two threeMichelin-starred restaurants on his CV, Thomas Keller’s next move was always going to be interesting. TAK Room is a high-end throwback to the American chophouse, serving classics (lobster Thermidor, Dover sole, steaks) sprinkled with Keller’s culinary fairy dust and priced to boot: it’s not for nothing he’s called the godfather of the $1k meal. (20 Hudson Yards, 5th Floor, +1 929 450 4050; takroomnyc.com)

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BUSINESS

STAY

COURTESY OF NYCGO.COM

GRAND With almost unparalleled views of Central Park from the exclusive upper floors, IM Pei’s modern-deco masterpiece wears the Four Seasons label with head-turning elegance. From the soaring lobby with its massive columns to the carefully laid out monochromatic rooms and their Tuscan-marble bathrooms, this is New York at its minutely-observed grandest. Rooms from $1,095. (57 E57th St, +1 212 758 5700; fourseasons.com)

TIMELESS Shielded from the chaos of Times Square by tripleglazed windows, The Knickerbocker is a Beaux-Arts classic, originally opened in 1906 by John Jacob Astor IV. A century on, this remains one of the city’s best digs, with sleek, minimalist rooms decked out in neutral colours, Sferra linens, Carrara marble bathrooms and high-end modern amenities. Rooms from $201.

(6 Times Square, +1 212 204 4980; theknickerbocker.com)

MID-RANGE Comfort and friendly service are hallmarks of Hotel Beacon, a fine mid-range option on the Upper West Side.

Ordinary rooms are large but the suites come with kitchenettes and – on the upper floors – some fab views, including of the Beaux-Arts Ansonia Building. The wonderful Zabar’s deli is down the street and you’re five minutes by train from midtown. Rooms from $201. (2130 Broadway, +1 212 787 1100; beaconhotel.com)

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BUSINESS

Where do you like to take authors?

Like all people who are professional eaterouters, I have haunts. Near my apartment, I can usually be found having breakfast at Maialino (maialinonyc.com), in the Gramercy Park Hotel and dinner at Union Square Café (unionsquarecafe.com) or ABC Kitchen (abchome.com). Closer to the office, The Whitby Hotel (firmdalehotels.com) – and its bar and restaurant – is my home away from home.

BUSINESS INSIDER

LITERARY TASTEMAKER If Alexandra Machinist likes your book, chances are it’ll be a success. A senior partner and literary agent at International Creative Management Partners, some of her recent and notable projects include Tomi Adeyemi’s Children of Blood and Bone, Martha Hall Kelly’s Lilac Girls and the runaway success that is Kevin Kwan’s Crazy Rich Asians trilogy. icmpartners.com

How long have you lived in New York?

Aside from the ruin my parents wrought on me by moving to the suburbs in adolescence and stints away for college and law school, I’ve lived in New York my whole life.

How did you get involved in literary representation? I’ve always been beguiled by books and read one a day, starting when I was six or seven. I’m also an extrovert and compulsive negotiator,

so when I learned what a literary agent does, I knew it was the job for me. I did an internship at boutique agency Janklow & Nesbit when I was in college – and that was the foundation for my subsequent career.

What do you love most about New York?

There is no other city in the world where I have such a sense of possibility. In New York, the energy of the city makes you feel like anything can happen at any moment.

That is its unique magic.

Where do you like to celebrate successes? It totally depends on the client. I have a client who is an opera buff, so we celebrate her successes by going to the opera and having dinner at the Grand Tier (diningatmetopera.com).

It’s totally wonderful, old-school New York. A personal favourite, though, of modern New York is Air’s Champagne Parlor (airschampagneparlor.com) in Greenwich Village. It’s owned by an amazing, enterprising woman and boasts one of the best champagne lists I’ve ever seen at totally normal, not particularly marked-up prices.

Any celebration with my friends at Random House usually takes place at Blue Ribbon (blueribbonrestaurants.com) and you can never go wrong with Le Coucou (lecoucou. com) or Charlie Bird (charliebirdnyc.com).

What do you do in your downtime?

When I’m not reading, which is rare, I love to travel, go to the theatre and experience live music and go on food adventures.

The diversity of experiences to be had in New York is endlessly fun to explore.

I highly recommend going to the dim sum restaurant on the top of the New World Mall (newworldmallnyc.com) in Flushing, eating some of the best modern Korean food I know at Atoboy (atoboynyc.com) or drinking sake at a tiny bar on the Lower East Side called Yopparai (yopparainyc.com).

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BUSINESS

A DAY IN THE LIFE Gerry Appleby, joint managing director of Dublin’s Appleby Jewellers, has over 40 years’ experience in the business founded by his parents. He is an expert gemologist, highly respected in the diamond exchanges of Europe, Asia and the USA, and despite his longevity in the business, he has never lost his passion for a beautiful gemstone. appleby.ie

7am I’m not a morning person, though I’m probably the best of the four Appleby brothers ... First thing, I catch up with calls and emails from Asia, as it’s mid-afternoon there. By 8.30 I’ve already got through a lot of work. Then it’s time for a hearty breakfast, like eggs, bacon, fried potatoes and tomato. I don’t eat much at lunchtime and this keeps me going through the day. Our two-year-old granddaughter stays with us three times a week and on these mornings I’ll also make her breakfast.

9.30am I visit Antwerp weekly. These days consist of back-to-back meetings and can be hectic. In Dublin, I’m glad to have the opportunity to touch base with staff and customers. Once I get to our store, it’s straight to work, carefully selecting and matching gemstones that will inform the design of our handcrafted pieces.

Noon I meet with the leader of our workshop, Declan. Even with my lifetime’s experience in the business, I’m still learning, and Declan is hugely knowledgeable, talented and enthusiastic. Every day brings new challenges.

I continue to liaise between the store and the workshop throughout the day, quality checking and consulting with our craftspeople on customer queries.

1pm Lunch is a light snack. I eat with the team in our kitchen and get to hear all the news – babies, holidays, family events. Our staff are like extended family and it’s great to catch up.

I LOVE VISITIN G …

BRUSSELS By now, taking the Dublin to Brussels flight is like catching a bus for me.

Importantly, Brussels is my gateway to Antwerp, and is a great city in itself, with fabulous restaurants and a great atmosphere.

2pm I spend time checking emails, which mostly means reviewing CAD designs and photos. Customisation has always been a large part of our business and today even more so.

Many clients want pieces unique to them.

4pm A walk-about the store floor is the high point of my day. My best design ideas come from interacting with our customers, who are increasingly well informed. I’ll check the store window display – constant attention to detail is important in a trust business like ours.

5pm I try to fit in a gym session a few times a week. Keeping fit is important to me – like my brothers, I enjoy active pursuits. And it’s good to work off that big breakfast!

PARIS As a capital of design and fashion, Paris is an endless source of inspiration. It’s one of the few cities in the world with a real soul. I enjoy every opportunity to visit Place Vendôme, to look at the sparklers in the windows and visit friends in the business.

8pm During the week my wife makes dinner, as I get home too late. At the weekends, though, I enjoy cooking. I relax by listening to music, all genres. Our entire family is very musical and many of us play an instrument or sing. On Christmas Eve we get together and everyone has to perform a party piece. Our mother, Peggy, was Hungarian and music was very important to her. She instilled in us a love of family and a sense of responsibility as custodians of a family business.

10pm Winding down after wrapping up any final business of the day. Our business is international and endlessly rewarding and interesting, though there’s nothing I enjoy more than spending time at home with family.

MONTPELLIER A beautiful city in which to relax. It has fantastic food, a great climate, and French elegance and heart. You can’t beat it.

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S T AY A T C O N R A D D U B L I N W I T H O U R W I N T E R S A L E B O O K N O W O N C O N R A D D U B L I N .C O M Heavily inspired and influenced by Dublin’s rich literary culture and local heritage, Conrad Dublin features 192 beautifully refurbished guest rooms and suites. Join us on a voyage of discovery at Lemuel’s, relax and enjoy a tasty meal in Alfie Byrne’s by Galway Bay Brewery, or take a seat in the stylish surroundings of the Coburg and experience a true brasserie.

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland | Phone +353-1-602 8900 | ConradDublin.com

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HOTELS

NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK

TOP OF THE LAKE

BOSTON A roaring fire and helpful concierge await in Beacon Hill’s modern red-bricked gem, The Whitney. Rooms have organic amenities, a plush bathrobe and, on request, a view of the Charles River. And don’t miss the Peregrine restaurant’s superb Mediterranean cuisine. Just 15 minutes from Boston Logan by car and ten minutes from the historic Freedom Trail by foot.

Rooms from $199. whitneyhotelboston.com

Hotel Alex Lake Zürich is a multi-functional, understatedly beautiful dream, says Shayna Sappington.

M

any are familiar with Switzerland’s biggest city and business centre: Zürich. Less known is the nearby up-and-coming innovation centre, Zug, just 30 kilometres south. With its cobblestone streets and Medieval airs and graces, Zug is also home to many international companies, a diverse young workforce and is one of the richest cantons in the country.

Conveniently, both of these affluent hubs can be easily reached from Campbell Gray Hotels’ newest prospect, Hotel Alex Lake Zürich, named after the idyllic lake on which it is located. In addition to waterfront views, a private marina and slick interiors designed by BradyWilliams – co-owned by Ireland’s own Shayne Brady – each of the 44 rooms, studios and penthouses includes a kitchenette, smart TV, work table, spacious bathroom and cosy under-floor heating – perfect for wintry nights – while the high-speed Wi-Fi, onsite parking, gym and business centre make it an ideal base for corporate travellers.

Convenience is key here. The hotel is a mere half hour from Zürich Airport, via the S2 line, and also offers a private boat transfer to and from the city. Guests can refresh after a long day of meetings by

visiting the hotel’s PureGray Spa, which includes a sauna, steam room, vitality pool and luxurious treatments – try the hydrating Jet Lag facial or the Traveller’s Tonic body treatment, a combination of hot compresses and herbal extracts, relieving both stress and fatigue.

Client dinners can be hosted at the elegant Boathouse Bar and Restaurant.

Its impressive wine list (categorised by the surrounding regions) and cocktail menu is available inside a chic, modern bar, above, or out on the lakeside sun terrace.

The food on offer is fresh and seasonal, with a good selection of vegan and vegetarian options. Specialties include the braised lamb shank with ratatouille and potato mousseline with mulled wine gravy, or blue mussels with white wine butter sauce and frites.

Lake Zürich is known for its lush, hilly views and cerulean waters, upon which guests can practise their ice-skating skills.

But a stay here would be incomplete without a bracing walk, jog or cycle along one of the sublime lake paths, ideal for clearing one’s mind for a busy day ahead.

Rooms from CHF 258. (Seestrasse 182, 8800 Thalwil, Lake Zürich, +41 445 529 999; campbellgrayhotels.com)

WASHINGTON DC In the charming, historic district of Georgetown, the recently renovated Rosewood Washington DC has easy access to downtown, National Mall and the White House.

Wolfgang Puck’s restaurant, The CUT, reopens on February 1, 2020, after a refit, while CUT Above lounge and bar overlooks the Chesapeake and Ohio (C&O) canal, lined by maple and sycamore trees. Rooms from $385. rosewoodhotels.com

DUBLIN Colourful interiors and bold patterns offer a unique escape in Dublin’s The Green Hotel on Harcourt Street, which is within close range of bustling St Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street and Merrion Square. Fresh sandwiches and avocado salads make for tasty lunch breaks – the Reuben is divine – and the reading room has hot desks for a late-night work sesh. Rooms from €169. thegreenhotel.ie

Now over 50% reserved!

First occupiers moving in June 2020

   

Prime Cork City Centre location 250,000 sq ft of Grade A office space Floorplates up to 2 1 ,000 sq ft All car parking spaces with EV points

   

Penrose One; 80,000 sq ft Penrose Two: 170,000 sq ft Rooftop terrace available to all occupiers 10,500 sq ft state of the art gym

www.penrosedock .com JCD Group, 1104 City Gate Mahon, Cork, Ireland.

Tel: +353 21 461 4726 Email: info@jcdgroup.ie

COMMERCIAL PROPERTY DEVELOPER S

www.jcdgroup.ie

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BUSINESS

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT

1 ASK YOURSELF “WHY?” Personally, there are a lot of sacrifices and if you know why you are doing it, it provides focus.

From a company perspective, it helps make decisions with regards to customers, markets, route to market etc. It helps you to say no when it doesn’t suit your company’s raison d’être. One of the best investments I ever made was writing a brand guideline book before we even started, covering age group, positioning, colours, tone, illustration style. That rule book is constantly evolving but the core principles remain the same, which offers us a meaningful purpose and adds value to the brand.

2 SEEK A MENTOR We did more than 18 months of research before starting Lottie Dolls, asking the opinion of industry experts.

That said, in the end we decided to follow what our research with children said ... so while it’s important to get opinions, it’s equally important to follow your gut instinct.

SON PHOTOGRAPHIC

Ian Harkin is co-founder and CEO of toy company Lottie Dolls, based in Co Donegal.

Challenging stereotypes, the dolls retail in more than 30 countries and are renowned for their diversity and inclusivity, from stargazers to activists. eu.lottie.com

3 EMBRACE FAILURE Not enough is spoken about failure, which is part of the process. Don’t be afraid of it, deal with it, learn from it and move on. As you grow your business and start hiring, you also need the people who work for you to make mistakes.

What I mean by that is to empower them to make decisions, make them accountable. If things go wrong, look at the controls, review why it happened, learn from it and move on.

4 LISTEN TO YOUR COMMUNITY Your community starts with your employees and we try to involve them in everything we do. We bring the team out of the office several times a year and we sit down and work out where we want to go. Social media has been an incredible tool for us and we also have a database that provides feedback. Connecting with your consumers regularly is extremely important. We pride ourselves on our customer service and aim to over-deliver on expectations. Anyone

who takes the time to comment can be converted to an advocate, given the right service.

5 BE PASSIONATE I love what we are doing and that we are doing it in Donegal. The community we have built all over the world, that has given us wonderful support that we hear about every day, is incredibly empowering.

We are extremely grateful to them for helping us build Lottie into a brand that is competing internationally with the biggest toy companies.

6 BE PREPARED FOR CHANGE Every day new challenges arise, some micro, some macro. The most important thing is to deal with them quickly, although, some issues, such as Brexit, require a little more strategic thinking ... But if you don’t deal with issues quickly, they can build up and be overwhelming.

IAN’S SMART CITY NEW YORK DESTINATION There are three cities that I get a buzz from every time I visit: Hong Kong, London and New York. In my last startup, we had an office in all three, but the novelty was always travelling to New York. Driving in from JFK and looking from Queens into Manhattan, you get a real buzz.

STAY Most of my visits involve trade shows down at the Javits Convention Center so I base myself near Times Square, at the Hotel Edison. It’s an older hotel but most rooms have been modernised and, if you like your shows, you’re right in the middle of Broadway. edisonhotelnyc.com

EAT I always visit Gallaghers Steakhouse (gallaghersny steakhouse.com) and, while at trade shows, I’ll pop out for hotdogs from street vendors.

For atmosphere, head to Claudette in Greenwich Village (claudettenyc.com) or Boucherie in West Village (boucherie.nyc).

WINTHROP, DELIVERING TURNKEY DATA CENTRES, FASTER, LEANER & SMARTER

YOUR EXPERIENCED PARTNER FOR DATA CENTRES IN EUROPE

DUBLIN EXCLUSIVE

Cocktails from €8.95

GLENDALOUGH POITÍN € 7.45 Poitín is Ireland's historic predecessor to whiskey.

It can be traced as far back as 584AD in the monastic settlements of Glendalough.

Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 HARDROCK.COM

E R ’ U O Y

N O C BA AZY! Me

CR

Bacon Crusted Ribs

Fleet Street • Stephen’s Green • Blanchardstown Dundrum • Swords • Liffey Valley

Let us entertain you

We’ve got loads of brilliant movies, TV shows and music for you to enjoy.

124 126 128 130 132 134 140 142 146

Box office hits All the classics TV time Binge watching Audio Your comfort and safety Flight connections Explore the world with us Let's get you connected

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INFLIGHT

Box office hits Settle in and enjoy some of the latest Hollywood blockbusters.

Drama

R

141 mins

Once Upon a Time... in Hollywood A television star and his stunt double strive to achieve fame.

Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Brad Pitt, Margot Robbie EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Thriller

PG13

122 mins

Ad Astra

Biopic

PG13

117 mins

Blinded by the Light

An Army Corps engineer searches across the galaxy for his father. Stars Brad Pitt, Kimmy Shields, Tommy Lee Jones

A joyful story of courage, love and family – and Bruce Springsteen. Stars Viveik Kalra, Kulvinder Ghir, Meera Ganatra

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN

EN

Drama

Diane

PG13

95 mins

A woman confronts memories she would rather forget. Stars Mary Kay Place, Jake Lacy, Estelle Parsons EN

Action

PG13

134 mins

Fast & Furious Presents: Hobbs & Shaw

Thriller

R

131 mins

John Wick: Chapter 3 – Parabellum

Luke Hobbs and Deckard Shaw form an unlikely alliance. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Jason Statham

Assassin John Wick is the target of hit people everywhere. Stars Keanu Reeves, Halle Berry, Ian McShane

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR IT ES

INFLIGHT

Action

PG13

115 mins

Men in Black: International

The Men in Black tackle a mole in their company.

Stars Chris Hemsworth, Tessa Thompson EN FR DE IT ES

Drama

PG

107 mins

Thriller

R

95 mins

Biography

R

121 mins

Rocketman

Ready or Not

Crime

R

111 mins

Shaft

A young bride’s evening turns into a fight for her life.

Stars Samara Weaving, Andie MacDowell, Mark O’Brien

The fantastical human story of Elton John’s early years.

Stars Taron Egerton, Jamie Bell, Richard Madden

John Shaft Jr uncovers the truth behind his friend’s death. Stars Samuel L Jackson, Alexandra Shipp, Richard Roundtree

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Action

R

102 mins

Comedy

PG13

116 mins

Yesterday

The Art of Racing in the Rain

The Kitchen

A dog recalls the life lessons he has learned from his owner, Denny. Stars Amanda Seyfried, Kevin Costner

The wives of gangsters operate their husbands’ rackets. Stars Melissa McCarthy, Tiffany Haddish, Elisabeth Moss

Jack realises he’s the only one who knows The Beatles.

Stars Himesh Patel, Lily James, Sophia Di Martino

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN DE IT ES CCEN

KidZone

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KidZone

KidZone

Comedy

PG13

130 mins

Where’d You Go, Bernadette

Action

PG13

130 mins

Spider-Man: Far from Home

Spider-Man steps up to take on new threats. Stars Tom Holland, Zendaya Coleman, Samuel Jackson EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Action

PG13

113 mins

X-Men: Dark Phoenix

A mom becomes compelled to reconnect with her passions. Stars Cate Blanchett, Kristen Wiig

The X-Men decide if the life of a team member is worth saving. Stars Jennifer Lawrence, James McAvoy, Sophie Turner

EN FR ES CCEN ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

KidZone

G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13

Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR KidZone

PG

128 mins

Aladdin

A live-action adaptation of Disney’s animated classic.

Stars Will Smith, Mena Massoud, Naomi Scott EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

KidZone

PG

100 mins

Dora and the Lost City of Gold

KidZone

G

118 mins

The Lion King (2019)

KidZone

G

100 mins

Toy Story 4

Dora leads an adventure to solve the mystery behind a lost city. Stars Isabel Moner, Eugenio Derbez

The Lion King journeys to the African savanna.

Voiced by Donald Glover, Beyoncé Knowles-Carter, James Earl Jones

The final film in the Toy Story franchise. Voiced

by Tom Hanks, Tim Allen, Annie Potts

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Français

DE

Deutsch

IT

Italiano

ES

Español

PU

Portuguese CCEN Closed Caption English

ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS

English Subtitles

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INFLIGHT

All the classics PG13

Take a trip down movie memory lane with our great selection of classics.

Our animation film package will guarantee fun for all the family with classics including ‘Bambi’, ‘Peter Pan’ and ‘Beauty and the Beast’.

R

115 mins

R

119 mins

Argo Stars Ben Affleck, Bryan Cranston

Birdman Stars Michael Keaton, Zach Galifianakis

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

KidZone

93 mins

(500) Days of Summer Stars Zooey Deschanel

117 mins

R

106 mins

PG13

92 mins

Blended Stars Adam Sandler, Drew Barrymore

Deadpool Stars Ryan Reynolds, Morena Baccarin, TJ Miller

Enough Said Stars Julia LouisDreyfus, James Gandolfini

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

Marvel e Univers

Sit back and enjoy our actionpacked Marvel Studios package.

Starring some of your favourite superheroes such as ‘Captain America’, ‘Iron Man’ and ‘Thor’.

PG

© 2019 Marvel

PG13

94 mins

R

102 mins

R

136 mins

© 2019 Disney

PG13

105 mins

PG13

93 mins

86 mins

PG13

101 mins

PG13

124 mins

Fantastic Mr Fox Voiced by George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Bill Murray

Isle of Dogs Voiced by Bryan Cranston, Koyu Rankin

Joy Stars Jennifer Lawrence, Bradley Cooper

EN FR DE ES

EN FR IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

PG

89 mins

R

91 mins

PG13

152 mins

Juno Stars Ellen Page, Michael Cera, Jennifer Garner

Little Miss Sunshine Stars Steve Carell, Toni Collette

Logan Stars Hugh Jackman, Patrick Stewart

Me and Earl and the Dying Girl Stars Thomas Mann, RJ Cyler

Moonrise Kingdom Stars Jared Gilman

Robots Voiced by Ewan McGregor, Halle Berry, Mel Brooks

The Darjeeling Limited Stars Owen Wilson

The Dark Knight Stars Christian Bale, Heath Ledger

EN FR DE CCEN

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE ES CCEN

EN FR DE ES

EN

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR IT ES CCEN

R

104 mins

R

103 mins

R

99 mins

PG13

201 mins

R

123 mins

PG

124 mins

PG13

137 mins

PG13

130 mins

The Disaster Artist Stars James Franco

The French Connection Stars Gene Hackman

The Grand Budapest Hotel Stars Ralph Fiennes

The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King Stars Elijah Wood

The Shape of Water Stars Sally Hawkins

We Bought a Zoo Stars Matt Damon, Scarlett Johansson

Wonder Woman Stars Gal Godot, Chris Pine, Connie Nielson

X-Men: Days of Future Past Stars Hugh Jackman, James McAvoy

EN DE IT

EN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

ADEN

Irish movies and shorts

PG13

11 mins

PG13

10 mins

PG13

94 mins

PG13

8 mins

PG13

13 mins

PG13

2 mins

R

97 mins

PG13

11 mins

Acorn Stars Aideen Wylde, Aidan O’Hare

Allan With Two Ls Stars Allan Gordon

Full Circle Stars Michael Bates, Mark Schrier, Paul Boyle

Procession Stars Olwen Fouéré, Finbarr Doyle

Seanie & Flo Stars John Connors, Ann Skelly

The Buggyman Stars Aislinn O’Byrne, Alan Fitzhenry

The Dig Stars Francis Magee, Moe Dunford

The Vasectomy Doctor Directed by Paul Webster

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

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INFLIGHT

TV time Catch up on an old favourite or discover a new show.

Business CNBC Reports Discover the business of wellness CNBC Sports Latest sports stories Managing Asia The resale sector The Brave Ones Zhang Xin and her rise up the corporate ladder The Brave Ones Jack Ma on becoming an e-commerce king Trailblazers Where Jean Paul Gaultier hangs out in Paris

LinkedIn Learning

Brooklyn Nine-Nine, S6, EP 1–6.

Prepare for even more laughs at the newest season of this award-winning American sitcom which follows the hilarious antics of the detectives in Brooklyn’s 99th Precinct. Whether it be arresting suspects or solving murders, this show is funny at every turn.

Building Professional Relationships Turn contacts into beneficial relationships Career Advice from Some of the Biggest Names in Business Career advice topics Disrupting Yourself Take your career to the next level Doing Good to Build a Profitable Business Improve your business Embracing Unexpected Change How to deal with change in your life Having Difficult Conversations Communication skills in business Impromptu Speaking Techniques that help your speaking skills Soon Yu on Creating Timeless Brands Creating a brand that lasts Strategic Focus for Managers Say no to distractions, and more Tech Simplified: Everyday Tech Questions Solutions-driven content

Kidzone

It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, S13 EP 2–5 Five self-involved friends run an Irish pub in Philadelphia, navigating their way through the trials and tribulations of adult life. Regularly landing in situations that get worse before they get better, creator Rob McElhenney ensures that there’s never a dull moment in this laugh out loud sitcom.

Big Hero 6: The Series Hiro and his band of heroes Butterbean’s Café A fairy runs a café Giving Tales Fairy tales by Hans Christian Andersen Knight Squad Two knights team up Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy Criminals who save the universe Paw Patrol A boy and six dogs protect their town SpongeBob SquarePants Spongebob and his adventures

Laugh out loud Ballers The lives of football players Can't Cope, Won’t Cope A dark comedy about friendship Friday Night Dinner A comedy about a nutty family Friends Six friends from Manhattan The Good Place Four people define what it is to be good

Learn & discover

Sports

Grow, Cook, Eat Bringing seasonal recipes from pot to plate How to Win at Everything A show on how to win at almost anything Louis Theroux’s Altered States An investigation into the vagaries of American life Pilgrimage: The Road to Santiago Seven celebrities travel in Spain Spencer, Vogue and Baby Too Spencer Matthews and Vogue Williams embrace parenthood Star Talk A talk-show exploring scientific topics Superstructures: Engineering Marvels Extraordinary examples of manmade structures The Truth About … A science documentary on everyday topics The World From Above Objects found in Americans’ gardens Top Tables, Top Cities Food that defines international cities

Chill Follows the biggest names in surfing Fight Stars They’re big.

They’re bold. They’re fight stars Football's Greatest Stage Featuring some of the world's best footballers The Burning Issue Discussing the most pressing issues in sport The Fast Lane A series following three different police officers The Immortals Featuring the greatest sports icons of our time

Music & arts Architectures Displays modern architectural achievements BBC Radio 1’s Big Weekend 2019 A foot-tapping music festival Brendan Grace: Pure Gold Classic clips of the late Brendan Grace David Bowie – The Last Five Years Bowie's final five years Stars of the Silver Screen Great actors of the 20th century The Great British Bake-Off Amateur bakers compete to be victorious

Real life A Wild Irish Year Showcasing Ireland’s diverse natural landscapes Donal’s Meals in Minutes Quick recipes for busy lifestyles Gordon Ramsay: Uncharted Cookery skills from different cultures Incredible Homes Dermot Bannon exhibits the world’s most spectacular homes Keeping Up With the Kardashians The lives of the Kardashian family Tastes Like Home Catherine Fulvio creates dishes reminding people of home The Chronicles of Mourne Follows the lives of workers in the Mourne mountains The Story of Us with Morgan Freeman The forces that drive humanity Tracks and Trails Explore Ireland’s natural landscapes Travel Man: 48 Hours in …

Richard Ayoade travels to trendy cities with celebrities

Viral AreYaHavingThat Irish vloggers review festivals, drinks and more JamieJayCar .Videos Follow the antics of Vlogger Jamie Jay Car LifesBiggestQuestions A channel on debunking conspiracy theories My Food Travels Have the best holiday from these travel tips Sam & Nic Chapman Vloggers Sam and Nic cater to your beauty needs School Of Affluence Navigate High-Society with Anna Bey

Wellbeing Chasing Longevity How our lifestyle impacts our health Chasing Sleep Sleep is one of the hottest topics today Supershoppers Inside gossip on the biggest brands The Food Files Discover the real health benefits from our food Upscale with Prentice Penny A high standard of living achieved at any price You Can Do Better Tips on topics like friends, money and more

Wish you were here Discover Vancouver, Canada: Capilano Suspension Bridge Park Learn about one of Canada's biggest attractions How to Drink Craft Beer in America Discussing the beer to try in each American state Secret Marvels: Haw Par Villa Singapore Experience one of Singapore’s most unusual attractions The Art of Mask-Making in Venice Learn about Venetian mask culture The Bone Church of the Czech Republic Discover the art within the Sedlec Ossuary Why Londoners Love Gin A show explaining the gin renaissance in London

22 - 26 JAN

Ireland’s only Winter music festival Dublin’s only traditional & folk music festival Don’t miss your chance to see the best Irish & international musicians in historic venues including Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Castle, Dublin City Hall, the Olympia Theatre and many more

Tickets from €9.99, book now at

tradfest.ie TempleBarTrad

TempleBarTradFest

#tradfest

130

INFLIGHT

Binge watching

Big Little Lies Season 2 R Exploring the malignancy of lies, the durability of friendships, the fragility of marriage and, of course, the complexities of parenting, this year’s ‘Big Little Lies’ promises plenty of twists and surprises, as relationships fray, loyalties erode, and the potential for emotional and bodily injury still looms.

Because there’s no better time for a binge watch. Take a look at our latest boxsets.

Chernobyl Season 1 R

Gotham Season 5

‘Chernobyl’ dramatises the aftermath of the nuclear power station disaster in northern Ukraine. The show follows the stories of those who contained the devastation and those who fought to prevent further disaster.

Based on the characters from the DC comics, this show chronicles the rise of one of the most infamous superheroes of our time whilst simultaneously revealing the spawning ground of the most iconic villains.

Love/Hate Season 3 & 4

R

The iconic crime series that delves deep into Dublin's underworld is back, and explores the lives of characters old and new.

Mr Robot Season 3 PG13 This Golden Globe awardwinning series follows a cyber-security engineer, Elliot Alderson. This season examines the fragmentation of Elliot and Mr Robot.

Suits Season 9

PG13

Suits gives an intimate look at the fast-paced world at a corporate law firm in Manhattan. In this final season, the firm deals with the repercussions of Robert’s disbarment.

Luther Season 5

PG13

R

Idris Elba returns to the role of DCI John Luther in this crime drama where he continues to pursue the dark and corrupt side of humanity on the streets of London.

Riverdale Season 3 PG13 Follow Archie Andrews, a high school football player and his friends, as they navigate the tribulations of teenage love, friendships and school as the group becomes enmeshed in the dark secrets of Riverdale.

The Handmaid’s Tale Season 3 R The Emmy-winning drama series returns for a third season and revolution is on the horizon. Offred positions herself on the front line – but who will be standing with her?

Explore IMMA

Ireland’s leading Modern and Contemporary Art Museum

—

Housed in the stunning Royal Hospital Kilmainham, Ireland’s finest 17th-century building

—

Exhibitions: Desire: A Revision from the 20th Century to the Digital Age, an international group exhibition featuring artists Tracey Emin, Max Ernst and René Magritte.

Life above Everything, an exhibition of painting by Lucian Freud and Jack B. Yeats, including works unseen for 20 years.

—

Exhibitions / Café / Shop / Gardens —

Visit imma.ie

132

INFLIGHT

Audio Relax to your favourite tunes, make a playlist or delve into a new podcast.

Raphael Saadiq Raphael Saadiq reaches new technical and emotional heights in his new album ‘Jimmy Lee’. Based on his own personal experiences, this album shows how Saadiq skillfully transforms his grief into artistic genius and clearly displays why he is one of the most captivating voices in modern-soul music.

Classical

Kidzone

Sound Out Ian McGlynn, RTÉ Lyric fm The Blue of the Night RTÉ Lyric fm

RTÉ Junior: The Dastardly Deeds of Professor Nasty The Professor breaks out of Little Rikers Daycare

Easy listening

Rock

An hour-long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels

Marty Miller Radio Nova

Indie

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One We offer two documentaries on this flight. The first tells the story of a policewoman mistreated by the Irish police and the second is the story of the IrishAmerican who tried to buy Northern Ireland

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

Irish Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists Sinéad ar Bord Traditional and contemporary tracks in the Irish language

Pop Lilian Smith RTÉ Radio 1 Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs 98FM – Totally Irish John Barker, 98FM RTÉ Gold Rick O’Shea, RTÉ Gold Tracy Clifford RTÉ 2FM

Talk

RTÉ Gold RTÉ Gold plays the greatest in popular music from the 1950s to the 2000s. In this special programme for Aer Lingus passengers, RTÉ Gold presenter Rick O’Shea has chosen for you a selection of tracks from the show’s vast archive.

Podcast Erin’s Isle Dingle Gin and Murphy’s Ice Cream Erin’s Isle Know your Knits and find some Silver Shamrocks in Galway Erin’s Isle The Friendliest Castle in Connemara Erin’s Isle Now We’re Cookin’

Podcast: Erin’s Isle Featuring a series of podcasts about Ireland.

Hear all about distilling gin and ice cream making in Dingle. Take a trip to Ballymaloe Cookery School and don’t miss the true tastes of Galway City.

INFLIGHT

133

The Lion King: The Gift Described as a love letter to Africa, the album features a diverse range of over 20 singers and musicians. The breathtaking song list ranges from emotive ballads including Beyoncé’s’ ‘Spirit’ and powerful group numbers such as ‘My Power’.

All-time Favourites

Country

Jazz

Pop

KidZone

Carole King Music The Bangles Different Light Taj Mahal Taj Mahal Buddy Guy Damn Right, I’ve Got the Blues New Kids on the Block Hangin’ Tough Sam Cooke Night Beat

Ryan Hurd Panorama Tyler Childers Country Squire Johnny Cash At Madison Square Garden Luke Combs The Prequel Seaforth Love That Willie Nelson Ride Me Back Home

New Masters Reworks – Vol 1 Camila Meza Ambar Ashley Henry Beautiful Vinyl Hunter Miles Davis Milestones George Benson Bad Benson Theo Croker Star People Nation

Prettymuch Phases Lolo Zouaï High Highs to Low Lows Mark Ronson Late Night Feelings Miley Cyrus She is Coming P!nk Hurts 2B Human Susan Boyle Ten

Electro

Metal

Kayzo Unleashed Golden Vessel Slowshine Groove Armada Greatest Hits Lost Frequencies Less is More Martin Garrix ByLaw The Chainsmokers Sick Boy

Arch Enemy Covered in Blood Dream Theater Distance Over Time In Flames Come Clarity (Re-Issue 2014) Krisiun Scourge of the Enthroned Sons of Apollo Live With the Plovdiv Psychotic Symphony Tool Ænima

Lee Seo-Hyun Children’s Song with Violin Fairy Tales for Kids The Three Little Pigs Bob Hastings 45 Songs Children Love to Sing Fairy Tales for Kids Alice In Wonderland Captain Allen Swift Popeye’s Favorite Sea Shanties and Other Songs Charles Grean Songs from Walt Disney’s ‘Jungle Book’

Alternative Sontalk Stay Wild San Fermin The Cormorant I Broken Back She Falls Twin XL How To Talk To Strangers St Lucia Acoustic Vol 1 The Neighbourhood The Neighbourhood

Classical German Brass Trip to America Vladimir Feltsman Chopin: Preludes, Op 28 Murray Perahia Mozart: Piano Concertos Nos 21 & 23 and Rondos, K 382 & K 386 Rundfunkchor Berlin Brahms Kammerorchester Basel Mozart, Holzbauer & Pleyel: Sinfonia Concertante Daniel Ottensamer La vie en rose

Irish Christy Moore Live at The Point Seba Safe In Waiting Barbara Dunne Classic Irish Melodies Volume 2 Little Hours Acoustic Live at Attica Dervish The Great Irish Songbook Little Hours Acoustic Live at Attica

Opera Nino Machaidze Romantic Arias Plácido Domingo Domingo: Save Your Nights For Me Anita Rachvelishvili Anita Christian Gerhaher Mio caro Händel Howard Arman Rossini: Stabat Mater Maarten Engeltjes Forgotten Arias

R ’n’ B Various Artists The Lion King: The Gift Lil Nas X 7 Raphael Saadiq Jimmy Lee Beyoncé Homecoming: The Live Album Izzy Bizu Glita Lucky Daye Painted

Rock Black Futures Never Not Nothing Vampire Weekend Father of the Bride Bruce Springsteen Western Stars Cage The Elephant Social Cues Nothing But Thieves What Did You Think When You Made Me This Way? Sundara Karma Ulfilas’ Alphabet

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INFLIGHT

Your comfort and safety Your comfort and safety is our number one priority at all times. Our crew are on hand to look after you and any requirements you may having during your flight.

We do ask that we have your attention during our safety announcements.

Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat with our cabin crew.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

We ask for your attention during the safety demonstration by our cabin crew before take-off. We also recommend that you familiarise yourself with the safety card in the seat pocket in front of you.

We have a strict no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

You cannot smoke in any part of the cabin.

General safety tips for your flight today

• Do pay attention to any instructions given to you by our cabin crew.

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• It is illegal to consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest, including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique.

• Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

• Any behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

Use of photography on board today

Guest with wheelchair requirements

Assistance contact details

If you or a guest you’re flying with requires a wheelchair to reach or depart the plane, we’re here to help.

specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Simply get in touch with us at least 48 hours in advance of your trip, let us know your booking reference number and we’ll take care of this for you.

Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

• You’re very welcome to take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

However: • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

#NotOnMyFlight We’re proud to have joined a European Aviation Authority campaign, #NotOnMyFlight, to promote a zero policy tolerance towards disruptive passengers. Your comfort and safety is our number one priority.

FOR OVER 175 YEARS EVERYONE HAS ENJOYED A WARM IRISH WELCOME IN THE TEMPLE BAR. LOVERS OF IRISH WHISKEY CAN EXPERIERENCE IRELANDS LARGEST WHISKEY COLLECTION, COMPLIMENTED WITH LIVE IRISH MUSIC SESSIONS DAILY AT THE FRIENDLIEST SPOT IN DUBLIN.

2016 winner

2016 2017 winner

2018 2017 winner

136

INFLIGHT

Your comfort and safety Your portable electronic devices You’re very welcome to use portable electronic equipment on this flight, but to help keep you safe we ask that you follow our guidelines below.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, minidisk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys.

For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before take-off. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Switch your device to flight mode or the flight safe setting during taxi, take-off and landing.

If you’d like to use your phone during your flight, switch it to flight safe mode. If your device doesn’t have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing, when the cabin crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are welcome to use your phone – provided it’s within easy reach. It’s important that you stay seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew when we land.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** Use of portable bluetooth type speakers on board is not permitted. **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

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138

INFLIGHT

About AerSpace With our premium short-haul travel experience you get more space to work or relax because we’ll always leave the middle seat free. And with lounge access, Fast Track security and priority boarding you’ll breeze through the airport. Arrive at your best with AerSpace.

What benefits come with AerSpace?

Dedicated seating, with the centre seat always empty

AerSpace is available to book now on aerlingus.com.

20kg check-in bag allowance

Fast track security access at Dublin Airport

Lounge access (where applicable)

Priority boarding

Dedicated overhead locker space for your bags

Complimentary food and beverage on board from our Bia menu

Subject to conditions and availability.

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140

INFLIGHT

Flight connections Dublin and London Heathrow Airports Flight connections at Dublin Airport

Flight connections at T2 London Heathrow On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

YES

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

NO

Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’.

After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2

USA

All other destinations

USA

Follow signs for US Preclearance

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes.

If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Where are you flying to today?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

Passport Control and Security Screening

Geataí Gates

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations.

Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

101-335

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside

Gate Information Screens

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

Departure gate Enjoy free Wi-Fi in Dublin Airport

DON’T LET THE ANONYMOUS TAKEAWAY DOOR FOOL YOU, IT’S FAR FROM CHICKEN BALLS AND 3-IN-1S THAT HANG DAI WAS RAISED. REVERENT RAIDING PARTIES SET OFF FOR BEIJING AND HONG KONG, RETURNING WITH THE KNOWLEDGE TO FORGE A MENU FROM LOCAL INGREDIENTS. OUR AIM IS TO MAKE FOOD THAT WOULD PASS THE STRICTEST CHINESE GRANDMA’S TASTE TEST.

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INFLIGHT

Explore the world with us

Anchorage Juneau

Ketchikan

Edmonton Saskatoon Vanc Bel

Victoria

Seattle

Calgary

Portland

Regina

Eugene

Winnipeg

Vancouver Bellingham

Victoria

Wenatchee

Seattle

Thunder Bay

Kalispell Spokane Pullman

Pasco

Great Falls Belgrade

Portland

Sacramento

San Jose

Ottawa Traverse

Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Omaha

Reno

Kansas City

Oakland Fresno

Fort Wayne Akron Canton

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Oklahoma City

Tucson

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

San Antonio

Houston

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis

New York JFK

Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

Philadelphia

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Charlotte Columbia

Charleston

El Paso Austin

Newark

Boston Hyannis

Washington (National)

Lexington

Little Rock Phoenix

Providence

Washington (Dulles)

Nashville

Tulsa

Hartford Pittsburgh

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore Cincinnati

Portland ME

Albany

Rochester

Dayton

Indianapolis

Springfield Las Vegas

Buffalo

Cleveland

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Syracuse

Detroit

St Louis

Halifax

Burlington

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Chicago

Des Moines

Denver

Moncton Fredericton

Montreal

Billings

Medford

Santa Rosa

Duluth

Minneapolis–St Paul

Redmond Eugene

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Walla Walla

Yakima

Missoula

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Honolulu Kahului

Key West

Honolulu Kahului

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

INFLIGHT

We fly to more than 100 destinations across the US, Canada, Europe, the UK and Ireland. We’ve also got great partnerships with JetBlue, British Airways and many more airlines to connect you to even more destinations. Where’s next on your travel wishlist?

143

Save time with US Preclearance You’ll clear US immigration in Dublin or Shannon Airport before you board your flight with us to the US. That means arriving in the US as a domestic passenger and avoiding those immigration queues.

Aer Lingus European and North American network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated

by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

Berlin

London London Heathrow City

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg Amsterdam

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Southampton

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille Rome

Barcelona Sardinia

Madrid

Naples

Alicante Malaga

Puglia

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Bourgas

Dubrovnik

Athens Catania

Faro

Tenerife Tenerife

Lanzarote Lanzarote Fuerteventura Fuerteventura

Gran Canaria Gran Canaria

Route map correct at time of print.

Destinations and schedules subject to change.

Izmir

144

INFLIGHT

Connections to Middle East & Australasia

Dublin

London Heathrow

Dubai Abu Dhabi

Sydney

Melbourne

You can book flights from Dublin to the Middle East and Australia at aerlingus.com with our codeshare partners, British Airways and Etihad Airways.

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

Historic O’Neill’s

Thriving

MULTI AWARD WINNING

BEAUTY SALON FOR SALE Well established premium brand

D

ublin is well known for being one of the best places to spend Christmas and the New Year. It comes alive with festive spirit, smiling faces, spectacular street lights, carol singing, pantomimes, Santa’s Grottos and maybe even a bit of snow.

What better way to enjoy this festive fun than a visit O’Neill’s, one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Whether you’re a visitor, native Dubliner or coming home for Christmas, when you visit O’Neill’s you’ll receive a warm and friendly welcome. Why not drop in for a mulled wine or a hot whiskey and take a break for your Christmas Nshopping.

• Traditional Irish Music and Dancers 7 nights-a-week, No Charge • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts • HD TV Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games

• Heated Roof Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area with TV Screens so you wont miss the winning goal • Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

Sure where else would you want to go?

Affluent Area South County Dublin Fantastic Premises with Designer Fit Out - Long Lease Masterful Team & Client Base of 5,000 + Ladies Certified Turnover 600k + p.a.

Possible Option to Acquire Freehold

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

Owner Contemplating Retirement Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland

Opposing fans enjoying the game on one of O’Neill’s big screens

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656. www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm / Fri: 8.00am-12.30am / Sat: 8.00am-12.30am / Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

To register interest, please contact Email: cbeggy@occaccountants.ie Phone 01 885 5877 OCC Chartered Accountants & Registered Auditors

Price on Application

146

INFLIGHT

Let’s get you connected Keep chatting, sharing and discovering Connect to our inflight Wi-Fi 1

Connect to our Mobile Network* 1

Turn on your device and connect to Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Turn on your device and switch off flight-safe mode

(A330 and A321neoLR)

If the Aeromobile Network doesn’t connect straight away, select it via your Network settings

2 Launch your browser, click ‘Buy Internet Access’ and purchase a plan Choose from the following plans

AerSocial €6.95 | $7.95 Up to 50MB

AerSurf €13.95 | $15.95 Up to 120MB The smart choice

AerMax €29.95 | $32.95 Up to 270MB

3 Enter a username and password and start browsing

2 Once you’re connected, you’ll receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile

*Mobile Network is available on A330 only

AirlinkExpress

Fly Straight to Dublin City Route 747

Route 757

IFSC & Point Village

IFSC & Point Village

Connolly Station & Busaras

Westland Row

O’Connell Street Temple Bar Heuston Station

Baggot Street Merrion Square & St. Stephen’s Green Camden (Charlotte Way)

€7 €12

One way

Departures up to every 10 minutes between Dublin Airport & City Tickets available at the Travel & Bus Information Desk (T1), Airlink Express Bus Stop, and On-Board

Return

airlinkexpress.ie

148

INFLIGHT

Welcome to your world -class airline We’re so proud of our 4-star Skytrax rating. Being celebrated on the world stage for our consistent quality and excellence in guest experience never gets old. We hope you enjoy your ight with us today.

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

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Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

150

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ELIZABETH ARDEN EIGHT-HOUR TRAVEL SET €15 Soothe and soften dry skin with this winter-beating duo pack, containing a moisturising lip protectant and nourishing hand cream.

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STUDIO 19 SOLO PLAY €45 With this palm-sized personal assistant, take Alexa on the go.

Simply connect the portable AI to any speaker via wire or Bluetooth, download the Studio 19 app and get started.

GIORGIO ARMANI DUO €55 Packaged in a gift box as suave as the fragrances themselves, this travel-size duo combines the original Eau de Toilette with the smokier Code Profumo Eau de Parfum, at 30ml each.

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152

A FINE VINTAGE

IN FROM THE COLD The first of Irish International Airlines’ Boeing 720s refuels at Gander airport, Newfoundland.

T

he year is 1960. In Ireland, Seán Lemass is Taoiseach, Éamon DeValera the nation’s president. Edna O’Brien’s The Country Girls has been published, and swiftly banned.

Bono, Christy Dignam, and Packie Bonner are born, and Shelbourne FC has won the FAI Cup. It is also the year that Annie O’Hanlon, the last known speaker of the Leinster dialect of the Irish language, passes away.

The same year, on November 18, the first Boeing 720 (EI-ALA; Pádraig) was delivered to Irish International

Airlines. This first 720 was a four-engine narrow-body, short to medium range passenger jet airliner and in this photograph, we see it landed at Gander, Newfoundland on what was most likely part of a publicity flight in early December that year.

The Irish Boeing 720s used Gander quite regularly as a fuel stop as its range was marginal on the increasingly popular Shannon to New York route.

One can almost feel the bite in the air as passengers re-embark after refuelling, glad to be back on board and onward bound once again.

The Only Credit Card in Ireland that gives you Avios, Two Return Flights* to Europe and much more ...

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2

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Avios are issued and redeemed in accordance with Avios Terms and Conditions. You do not earn Avios on excluded transactions. Please see www.avios.com for more details. 2 The fare is free, you pay the taxes, fees and charges. Available when you spend â‚Ź5,000 or more within a Reward Year on the Aer Credit Card, except for excluded transactions. Free return fares are for a European Aer Lingus ticketed and operated flights to/from Dublin, Cork, Shannon or Belfast. A minimum of two seats per flight will be available, except for Restricted Periods. Seat availability on the Aer Lingus website or through a booking agent does not guarantee a free return fare. 3To access Aer Lingus operated lounges at Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast every Reward year. 4On Aer Lingus operated flights out of Ireland at selected airports every Reward Year.

5 Acceptance criteria, terms and conditions apply. Bank of Ireland Travel Insurance is underwritten by AIG Europe S.A. 1

Aer Credit Card is brought to you by Bank of Ireland in partnership with Aer Lingus. Over 18s only. Lending criteria, terms and conditions apply. Subject to a monthly fee of â‚Ź7.99. Bank of Ireland is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.