February/March 2020 by Image Publications

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CONTENTS FEBRUARY/MARCH 2020

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4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news and announcements 8 ARRIVALS New faces in Dublin’s T2 13 CHECK IN Our lowdown on this season’s cultural highlights 26 DETOURIST Sounds like a beer, looks like Chicago. Eoin Higgins explores Pilsen, Illinois 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary hitlist 30 TRAVEL NOTEBOOK On tour with The Murder Capital’s frontman James McGovern 34 WEEKENDER Oh là lascivious – Shayna Sappington discovers a racy hotel in Paris

FEATURES

37 PROJECT RUNWAY Designer Louise Kennedy unveils Aer Lingus’ new uniform to Marie Kelly 42 BALANCING ACT Refreshing actor Niamh Algar justifies the hype, finds Susan Corrigan 48 STRONG WORDS Meg Walker meets indie press mavens 56 LOUGH OF AGES Nicola Brady is uplifted by Co Down 66 BEACH BALM Shayna Sappington unwinds in Newport Beach, California 82 LESSER-SPOTTED LONDON Lynn Enright follows trails of the unexpected 92 LIGHT FANTASTIC Matthew Thompson’s New York City is ever-illuminating

REGULARS

BUSINESS

77 WELLNESS BREAKS 109 BUSINESS & LIFE Rosaleen McMeel’s restorative retreats There’s no time like the present in 103 GLOBAL GREENING Zürich, says Elizabeth Heath A quintet of St Patrick’s Days by 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Thomas Breathnach Makeup ace Pamela Smyth 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT 118 A SAFE BET On-board info, entertainment and retail Nancy Rockett’s new hotels hotlist 152 A FINE VINTAGE 120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Reeling in the years to a groovy – Chase Bank’s Laurinda Rainey adds but short-lived – Aer Lingus uniform up her sagest advice

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WELCOME ABOARD This February, Aer Lingus ushers in a new uniform that at once looks forward while honouring its heritage.

elcome on board and thank you for flying with us today. This February we are delighted to reveal our new uniform created by Irish designer Louise Kennedy, which you will see on our cabin crew from February 10. Our new look is a culmination of Aer Lingus’ brand refresh, which was launched in January 2019, most notably with a new aircraft livery and shamrock. The new uniform will be worn by over 4,000 cabin and ground crew around the world, its redesign reflecting Aer Lingus’ status as a modern international airline with a proud Irish heritage. Guests will note that we have kept the iconic green in the uniform and now a new “Kenmare Green”, as well as a greater inclusion of navy throughout. In all, 20 garments have been designed, giving crew a greater variety of styles to choose from when conducting their different duties. Notable updates include the addition of trousers and a dress option for female crew, and new jacket and coat designs for male crew. To ensure the comfort of all uniformed crew, all garments have been made

with the highest quality materials: see our interview with Louise Kennedy on page 37, which traces her creative journey since she first reinvented the uniform for Aer Lingus in 1998. Louise Kennedy’s latest design for Aer Lingus is the airline’s eleventh uniform, with previous designers including leading fashion names such as Irene Gilbert, Neillí Mulcahy, Digby Morton (as seen in our A Fine Vintage feature, page 152), Ib Jorgensen and Paul Costello, as illustrated in the photo shoot below, which includes Louise’s 1998 design. Aer Lingus’ first-ever uniform was a militarystyle rich brown suit – also pictured – designed by Sybil Connolly in 1945, which became green in 1948. We are thrilled with our new uniform and confident that Louise has achieved a classic design that will represent Aer Lingus for many years to come. We hope you like it as much as we do. Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.

SUMMER LOVIN’ As well as our exciting new look, Aer Lingus has three new destinations to offer in 2020 – Rhodes in Greece and, in Italy, Brindisi, Puglia and Sardinia’s Alghero, with direct flights from Dublin commencing in May.

SCREEN & HEARD Aer Lingus is the official airline of the Virgin Media Dublin International Film Festival, which runs from February 26 until March 8. Keep your eyes peeled for the the Aer Lingus Discovery Award, which celebrates emerging Irish talent.

BEST REST Practice wellness on board your flight with our new video series with mindfulness expert Alison Canavan, learning how breathing techniques, meditation and much more can aid your journey. No previous experience required!

Earn up to

100,000 Avios points

Economy Companion Ticket each year after you spend $30,000 Priority boarding on Aer Lingus ﬂights from or to the USA No foreign transaction fees† Plus, earn even more Avios:

3X Avios

per $1 spent on Aer Lingus, British Airways, Iberia and LEVEL purchases

2X Avios

per $1 spent on hotel accommodations purchased directly with the hotel

1X Avios

per $1 spent on all other purchases

Visit chase.com/AerLingusVisa U.S. Residents only † APRs are based on creditworthiness. Purchase and balance transfer APR is 17.49% – 24.49% variable. Cash advances APR is 26.49% variable. Variable APRs change with the market based on the Prime Rate, which was 4.75% on 11/21/19. Annual fee: $95. Minimum Interest Charge: None. Balance Transfer Fee: 5% of the amount of each transaction, but not less than $5. Note: This account may not be eligible for balance transfers. Cash Advance Fee: 5% of the amount of each advance, but not less than $10. Foreign Transaction Fee: None. Credit cards are issued by JPMorgan Chase Bank, N.A. Member FDIC. Subject to credit approval. To obtain additional information on the current terms and information on any changes to these terms after the date above, please visit chase.com/AerLingusVisa. You must have a valid permanent home address within the 50 United States or the District of Columbia. Restrictions and limitations apply. Offer subject to change. See chase.com/AerLingusVisa for pricing and rewards details. The Contactless Symbol and Contactless Indicator are trademarks owned by and used with the permission of EMVCo, LLC. Aer Lingus AerClub Program By applying for the Aer Lingus Visa card you agree that an AerClub account will be created for you subject to the AerClub terms and conditions, please visit aerlingus.com/aerclub. © 2019 JPMorgan Chase & Co.

EDITORIAL

EDITOR Lucy White DEPUTY EDITOR Eoin Higgins EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Shayna Sappington SUB-EDITOR Sheila Wayman CONTRIBUTORS Nicola Brady, Thomas Breathnach, Lynn Enright, Elizabeth Heath, Bridget Hourican, Marie Kelly, Doreen Kilfeather, Barry McCall, Rosaleen McMeel, Melanie Mullan, Conor O’Leary, Matthew Thompson, Elly Walton

ART

ART DIRECTOR Julie Horton CREATIVE DIRECTOR Bill O’Sullivan

ADVERTISING

ADVERTISING MANAGER Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie ADVERTISING COPY CONTACT Derek Skehan, +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie

ADMINISTRATION

FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Brett Walker CREDIT CONTROLLER Angela Bennett CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Clodagh Edwards GROUP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lizzie Gore-Grimes GROUP CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Melanie Morris GROUP EDITOR AT LARGE Laura George EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Ann Reihill

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Media.

Meg Walker is an American-born journalist and editor working in Dublin for the last 20 years, telling the stories of the many people who inspire her. Having worked closely with book publishers over the last decade to bring the works of emerging writers to the pages of IMAGE magazine – where she’s a contributing features editor – Meg is constantly in awe of the number of great books published by small, independent publishers in Ireland, six of which she has proﬁled in our people story on page 48.

LO RN

S ON

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform

An editor, writer and occasional curator, Susan Corrigan is an American based in London, writing about modern attitudes, celebrity, culture and style for a wide range of titles including The Guardian, i-D, The Observer, Reﬁnery 29, The Times, Harper’s Bazaar, British Vogue and also for the BBC. For this issue of Cara, she met with Niamh Algar, a breakthrough Irish acting talent who was “super easygoing and unaﬀected, despite taking her work seriously.” Read the interview on page 42.

SIM TZ

CHAIRMAN Laura George DIRECTORS Eoin Magee, Patrick Dillon Malone, Clodagh Edwards, Melanie Morris, Robert Power

CONTRIBUTORS

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD

CEO Clare Broadbent BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Christina da Silva COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Justine Daly CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stuart Purcell FINANCE DIRECTOR Jane Moﬀett STRATEGY & BUSINESS DIRECTOR Ann Hartland +44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE MEDIA LTD

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Media, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663

Chris Atwood is a San Diego native, and commercial portrait and travel photographer. He cut his teeth in the Midwest as photo editor for 614 Magazine before moving into the world of ecommerce as a photographer. From there, his artistic sensibilities evolved, moving onto portraiture, travel editorial and food photography – and also moving back to Southern California, where he continues to work with myriad clients. For his Cara debut, he shot SoCal’s Newport Beach – turn to page 66 for his dreamy vistas.

© 2020 Image Media Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reﬂect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Media Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Media Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Media Ltd. Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Media Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Oﬃce of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie.

ON THE COVER

Project Runway shot for Aer Lingus by Barry McCall.

WELCOME TO OUR NEW ISSUE! WE ARE ALL YOURS. FEEL FREE TO TAKE THIS MAGAZINE AWAY FOR YOUR ONWARD JOURNEY. WE WOULD ALSO LOVE YOUR FEEDBACK AND TRAVEL PHOTOS VIA TWITTER @CARAMAGAZINE.

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ARRIVALS

WHO? Ella Taibel, Jennifer Young and Lizzie Burge FLYING IN FROM … London ELLA SAYS … We are on a girls’ trip visiting Dublin for the long weekend. Our goal is to experience Irish culture, museums and food.

WHO? Julien Goffin and Cyntia Neissen FLYING IN FROM … Düsseldorf CYNTIA SAYS … We are from Belgium and came to Dublin for the holidays. We can’t wait to see the Guinness Storehouse.

Greetings from Dublin’s T2, where incoming travellers are cheerfully landed.

WHO? Paul and Lara Horgan, Eilish Downing FLYING IN FROM … Brussels LARA SAYS … I was away on a student exchange in Belgium and France for three months. My parents, pictured, are picking me up. It’s so good to be back.

WHO? Sarah Noonan FLYING IN FROM … Hanoi, Vietnam via London SARAH SAYS … I am returning home after exploring North Vietnam for two weeks. It was absolutely amazing.

WHO? Laura Hildenbrand and Louisa Stein FLYING IN FROM … Düsseldorf LOUISA SAYS … Dublin is our favourite city. We came here from Germany for a semester and are now returning for the third time.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN; WORDS BY SHAYNA SAPPINGTON

Pictured above, L-R David Fitzgibbon, Partner and Michael Jackson, Managing Partner.

Strength in Depth When taking advice on strategically important decisions, experience and strength in depth matters. Matheson’s Corporate Department is one of the recognised leaders in the Irish legal market with experience in complex domestic and international corporate transactions across all industry sectors. Headquartered in Dublin and with international offices in the UK and US, we work with our clients as they grow their business. The recent appointment of Corporate M&A partner David Fitzgibbon further enhances the experience and expertise that we deliver on the most complex, innovative and strategically important transactions in the Irish market. “Excellent understanding of our business, which allows them to address matters quickly and accurately. It is a top-level firm”. Corporate and Commercial / M&A: Chambers Europe 2019 Matheson. The Law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland.

Winners, 12 Deals of the Year in M&A, Equity Capital Markets, Debt Capital Markets, Financial Services, Loans and Financing Finance Dublin Awards 2019 First Irish Law Firm to Receive the Investors in Diversity Gold Standard Irish Centre for Diversity 2019 Ranked Ireland’s Most Innovative Law Firm Financial Times Innovative Lawyers Report 2019 International Firm in the Americas International Tax Review 2018

To discuss your Irish corporate M&A legal needs, contact David Fitzgibbon, Corporate M&A partner david.fitzgibbon@matheson.com; or your usual Matheson Corporate M&A contact.

www.matheson.com

'The Drummer' by Barry Flanagan

DISCOVER ART, DESIRE FASHION AT KILDARE VILLAGE Fashion and art collide with the exciting partnership between Kildare Village and IMMA, the Irish Museum of Modern Art. This unique collaboration brings together fashion, art and culture, giving guests the chance to explore selected works from IMMA’s National Collection in the Village for a limited time only, with highlights including Barry Flanagan's striking 15-foot sculpture, 'The Drummer' Plus, discover a series of exclusive events in the Village until the end of March, including art workshops, panel discussions and talks with the curators of IMMA's Desire exhibition. To find out more about the partnership and the exciting programme of events, visit KildareVillage.com

Something Extraordinary EveryDay

™

A MEMBER OF THE BICESTER VILLAGE SHOPPING COLLECTION® © Kildare Village 2020

BLARNEY C A S T L E

G A R D E N S

Renowned for Bestowing the Gift of Eloquence Each visit to the gardens at Blarney Castle is always a unique experience. The grounds change remarkably with the seasons and new surprises await you around every corner. The 70 acres of gardens are a must see destination, and the estate boasts one of Ireland’s finest collections of trees and plants from all corners of the world. As Ireland’s first Wildlife Estate, it stands to reason that this haven so close to the city is a wonderful location to be close to nature. A stealthy visitor may spot an elusive kingfisher along the riverside walks or a red squirrel in the arboretum. It’s no surprise that Blarney’s gardens are the most visited in Ireland. There is something for everyone, from the amateur gardener to the seasoned plantsman or the family out to explore. Follow the map to find the historic and magical Rock Close with it’s Wishing Steps and Witch’s Kitchen; or the deadly Poison Garden, the Jurassic Fern Garden or the hidden Himalayan Valley.

Visiting gardens just got so much more exciting!

Feb 9am – 5pm (Last admission 4pm) & March 9am – 6pm (last admission 5pm) www.blarneycastle.ie | info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork)

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EAT | READ | GO

MODERN MARVELS Described as “a laboratory of Modernity” by the scholar Carl E Schorske, Vienna’s fin-de-siècle past is well documented but no less humdrum when presented as a new photo book charting 175 years of the Austrian capital. Vienna: Portrait of a City (Taschen, hardback €50), co-authored by Christian Brandstätter, Andreas J Hirsch and Hans-Michael Koetzle, waltzes through colourised street scenes from the early 20th century and Imperialist-era ballrooms, but also the more obscure nooks and crannies, including Cold War curiosities and present-day design. taschen.com

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CINEMA VARIETY This year’s Virgin Media Dublin International Film Festival comprises 12 days of more than 110 feature films, documentaries and short films, plus conversations, panels and workshops. The event also highlights women’s dynamism in a five-part programme, Women Make Film: A New Road Movie through Cinema, with contributions from Jane Fonda, Tilda Swinton and more. Headliners include an interview with Charlie Kaufman (Being John Malkovich) and Irish film triumphs Herself, directed by Phyllida Lloyd (Mamma Mia!) and Sea Fever, pictured, directed by Neasa Hardiman. From February 26 to March 8 at various Dublin locations. diff.ie

HEAD SPACE AND BREATHE ... LIFE LESSONS, A FESTIVAL TAILORED TOWARDS PHYSICAL AND MENTAL FITNESS, TAKES PLACE AT LONDON’S BARBICAN CENTRE THIS FEBRUARY 15-16 AND FEATURES MORE THAN 80 TALKS ON SELF-CARE, SUSTAINABILITY, PSYCHOLOGY AND NUTRITION. IT’S NOT JUST TALK, THOUGH – MEDITATIVE ACTIVITIES SUCH AS YOGA AND SOUND THERAPY ARE OFFERED AS WELL, TO HELP OPEN MINDS AND SPIRITS. HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE RICHARD DAWKINS AND REV RICHARD COLES ON “FINDING HAPPINESS IN A WORLD WITH OR WITHOUT GOD” AND ADAM KAY AND MARIE FORLEO DISCUSSING THEIR RESPECTIVE BESTSELLERS THIS IS GOING TO HURT AND EVERYTHING IS FIGUREOUTABLE. LIFELESSONSFESTIVAL.COM

LET’S DANCE Inspired by true experiences of Ireland’s direct provision system, State of Exception has thrived in the global limelight, and rightly so. This raw and intelligent performance by the Catherine Young Dance company features a visceral medley of movement, live music and text. Aiming to tear down cultural barriers and remove political borders, the production is a compelling commentary on the refugee crisis. Performances run in venues across Galway, Cork, Ennis, Dún Laoghaire and Limerick from February 18-26. catherineyoungdance.com

Originating in Kyoto as a status symbol garment for the wealthy merchant class in the 17th century, the kimono is being rewarded with a retrospective all to itself at London’s V&A from February 29 until June 21. This 315-piece exhibition, entitled Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, spans five centuries and includes rare vintage pieces, courtesan-class items and Western iterations in popular culture, such as Alexander McQueen’s design for Björk’s Homogenic album cover and Alec Guinness’ original Obi-Wan Kenobi costume. The East is well represented in Seattle also, where the Asian Art Museum reopens on February 8, after a two-year renovation (seattleartmuseum. org). Key collections from China, Korea, Japan, India, the Himalayas and Southeast Asia will be showcased thematically and within the splendour of the respectfully reconstructed Art Deco landmark. vam.ac.uk

IMAGE COURTESY OF THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

LUCA TRUFFARELLI

EASTERN TREASURES

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Get the right people behind you At William Fry, strong client relationships and quality legal and tax advice are the hallmarks of our inward investment business. Our client-focused service combines technical excellence with commercial awareness and a practical, constructive approach to business issues.

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S I L I C O N VA L L E Y

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OK COMPUTER THE FIRST OF ITS KIND, UNCANNY VALLEY: BEING HUMAN IN THE AGE OF AI, AT SAN FRANCISCO’S DE YOUNG MUSEUM, PORTRAYS SILICON VALLEY AS THE BIRTHPLACE OF ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE AND EXAMINES HUMANS’ EVOLVING RELATIONSHIP WITH SMART TECH. “HUMAN” IS REDEFINED IN STRIKING PIECES RANGING FROM VIDEO INSTALLATIONS TO HUMANOID CLONES, SUCH AS STEPHANIE DINKINS’ CONVERSATIONS WITH BINA48 (ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST ADVANCED SOCIAL ROBOTS) AND PIERRE HUYGHE’S EXOMIND (DEEP WATER), LEFT, A SLIGHTLY UNSETTLING NUDE SCULPTURE WITH A LIVE BEEHIVE HEAD ... OPENS FEBRUARY 22. DEYOUNG.FAMSF.ORG

REIGNING MEN London’s Barbican is the location for a major group exhibition from February 20, exploring how masculinity is experienced, performed and socially constructed via photography and film since the 1960s. Masculinities: Liberation through Photography brings together over 300 works, by more than 50 pioneering artists including Sunil Gupta, Richard Avedon, Robert Mapplethorpe, Annette Messager and Catherine Opie, to show how photography and film have been central to the way masculinities are imagined and understood in contemporary culture. barbican.org.uk

UNTAMED HEART Created by zoologist filmmaker duo Dan O’Neill and Isaac Rice, the wildlife film festival Wilderland received much critical acclaim during its 2019 debut. On March 1, it returns to Bristol, travelling across the UK and Ireland (Dublin, Galway and Mayo) before ending its run in Northallerton, Yorkshire, on May 3. The festival will feature winning wildlife short films chosen by expert judges. Last year’s panel included renowned cameraman Doug Allan (Planet Earth), BAFTA-winning naturalist writer/presenter Steve Backshall and naturalist author Stephen Moss. Come see independent filmmakers’ fresh perspectives on wildlife, conservation and sustainability. wilderlandfestival.com

SUNIL GUPTA, UNTITLED 22 FROM THE SERIES CHRISTOPHER STREET, 1976

FINE ARTS MUSEUMS OF SAN FRANCISCO

DIASPORA

ROCKET MAN UCD graduate Eóin Tuohy is aiming for the stars – literally, while on a traineeship at the European Astronaut Centre (EAC) in Cologne, as part of his Masters. Originally from Kilmacanogue, Co Wicklow, Tuohy is on a team exploring future missions to the Moon and Mars.

You were selected as one of two Irish nationals for the EAC’s traineeship programme in Germany. What did the process involve? It had a number of steps, the first of which was to be nominated by an Irish university, the second to be nominated by a mentor. After that the Irish Research Council shortlisted the candidates and then they invited me for an interview at their offices in Dublin. Two weeks later, at home in Kilmacanogue, I got the good news and went out for a meal to celebrate with family. What is the best part of your job so far? Definitely the subject matter of the work. I am really passionate about space and being able to work on space-related topics every day is a dream come true. I can be doing anything from working on how to deal with the dust on the Moon, to trying to get new medical equipment sent to the International Space Station, or even having a coffee with an astronaut. I really have to pinch myself sometimes. When did you first find interest in this field? I always had some interest in space, although about as much as the next person. It was only two years ago when I realised that a career in space is attainable for an

Irish person. It was at this point that I applied to study at the International Space University [in Strasbourg] to pursue this career. What are you working on right now? I’m working on how the soil on the Moon can be used for future human missions. We’re looking at sending people back to the Moon soon and setting up a base there so humans can stay for longer durations. Being able to use the soil on the Moon to build bases, roads, or launch pads, makes that much easier than bringing building materials from Earth. What do you do for downtime in Cologne? I like to keep active by running and playing Aussie rules football with the Rheinland Lions (yes, there is an Aussie rules team in Cologne), and I love the local food and drink. The summer is really great here and I like to head down to the Rhine to relax and watch the locals play flunky ball. Have you found an Irish community there? I actually work with two other Irish people, but there is also a surprising amount of Irish here in Cologne. Often you will hear an Irish accent passing by in the street. There is even a GAA club here called the Cologne Celtics.

Favourite thing about living in Germany so far? Definitely the food and drink. German culture ensures that you will be full at the end of every meal. They don’t do small portions, not least in the famous brauhäuser (beer halls). Also, if you haven’t been, it is definitely worth visiting Cologne for the Carnival period [February 20-28; cologne.de]. The locals sure know how to throw a festival. What do you stock up on when you visit home? Barry’s Tea first and foremost. I didn’t realise how addicted I was until I ran out. That was a tough two weeks. Other than that, a few packets of Tayto never go amiss. Which three celebrities would you most like to do a lunar mission with? Great question. First, David Bowie. I enjoy his music but, more importantly, given his song catalogue, I’ve a feeling he would have loved a trip to space. Secondly, [astrophysicist] Carl Sagan. He inspired me and countless others to be involved in science and space in particular. I feel he deserved to see the universe from outside the Earth’s atmosphere. Finally, Neil Armstrong. Just getting the opportunity to meet him would be amazing – and it would be handy to have someone who’s made the trip before!

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SEAMUS RYAN

SHAMROCK STARS From March 13-17, Dublin’s St Patrick’s Day Festival will have hundreds of events – live performances and music, art shows, literary trails, heritage tours – not to mention the grand parade that marches down O’Connell Street. So far, big names such as Soulé, and DJ Annie Mac, below, are set to perform at the Guinness Storehouse, while Lisa Hannigan collaborates in a modernised Joycean Pomes Penyeach at the National Concert Hall. For something more outré, check out THISISPOPBABY’s Where We Live 2020 at the Project Arts Centre, a collection of poignant, theatrical tales that celebrate a diversified Dublin. For more international St Patrick’s Day festivities, see our “Global Greening” round-up on page 103. stpatricksfestival.ie

CLASS ACTS OLIVIER AWARDWINNING DUBLIN PLAYWRIGHT CONOR McPHERSON’S NEW ADAPTATION OF UNCLE VANYA RUNS AT LONDON’S HAROLD PINTER THEATRE UNTIL MAY 2. FELLOW IRISHMAN CIARÁN HINDS, CHARACTER-ACTING STALWART TOBY JONES AND THE EVER-ENGAGING RICHARD ARMITAGE MAKE UP A STELLAR LEAD CAST THAT ALSO INCLUDES NETFLIX SENSATION AIMEE LOU WOOD AND VENERABLE IRISH STAGE STAR DEARBHLA MOLLOY. THIS ADAPTATION OF CHEKHOV’S SIMMERING MASTERPIECE HAS BEEN HIGHLY ANTICIPATED FOR ITS MEGAWATT CAST AND CREW, SO BOOK THE BEST AVAILABLE SEATS NOW. FROM £15 AT UNCLEVANYAPLAY.COM.

HEAVENLY KINGDOM Boasting majestic views over the famous Lakes of Killarney, the Europe Hotel and Resort is a uniquely beguiling five-star escape set in a stunning Co Kerry location. Offering comfortable, modern design, most of its salubrious, high-ceiling rooms and suites have waterfront views and are decorated with impeccable taste. And then there’s the food … flame-grilled steaks and veg, charred to perfection over open flames are available in The Brasserie, complemented by a thoughtfully curated wine and cheese selection (many from local farms) in The Europe’s second restaurant, The Panorama. The bolthole’s real star, however, is its awardwinning ESPA spa, offering holistic treatments, heated loungers, a thermal suite, swimming pools and a blissful garden-enclosed café. theeurope.com

One Destination

A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

Book online today Experience a unique landscape and culture by staying in County Clare Open 9am – 5pm in February

Co. Clare, Ireland.

8am – 7pm in March

T: +353 65 7086141 E: info@cliffsofmoher.ie United Nations Educational, Scientiﬁc and Cultural Organization

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

www.cliffsofmoher.ie

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LUNCH THE FARMGATE, CORK

MARIE-PIERRE MOREL

Occupying the upper floor of the English Market in Cork City, this gem – run by Kay Harte and her daughter Rebecca – is possibly my favourite dining room in the world. In the wood-panelled space – displaying the poetry of a collection of Cork’s wordsmiths, with a large glass front looking onto the bustling market space below – try their pristine oysters, followed by a deliciously earthy Irish stew with the finest floury potatoes and salted butter. You can be there, living in the moment, yet steeped in the history of its environment. Simply brilliant. farmgate.ie

What can one say about a three Michelin star restaurant in its 53rd year of operation, a restaurant that has been overseen by three generations of one family? The chef-in-waiting is César Troisgros, who will take over from his father, Michel, who in turn took up the mantle from his father, Pierre. The restaurant is located on a farm in Ouches, just outside Roanne, and the design narrative is beyond impressive, even by today’s standards. An almost Japanese approach to French cooking is the MO here, executed alongside some absolute classics – a truly authentic, world-class restaurant. troisgros.com BREAKFAST BOULETTES

LARDER + BOULIBAR, SAN FRANCISCO

On a trip to San Francisco I was told not to miss breakfast at Boulettes, a wise recommendation indeed. There’s a pretty interior where chefs cook the edible bounty from surrounding Sonoma around a central station. The kitchen, where chef Amaryll Schwertner plies her trade, is framed with an array of copper pots. Dine inside or out and enjoy a variety of organic egg dishes, and amazing sourdough, while soaking up the unique atmosphere. bouletteslarder.com

JOLEEN CRONIN

DINNER MAISON TROISGROS, LYON

FOOD FLIGHT Chef Ross Lewis has been an influential figure in Irish hospitality since co-founding Chapter One in 1993. Located in the former home of whiskey mogul John Jameson, the restaurant, under Lewis’ innovative direction, has garnered perhaps more accolades, including a coveted Michelin star, than any other Irish restaurant. chapteronerestaurant.com

DRINKS THE CONNAUGHT BAR, LONDON This bar is quite simply stunning. Designed by the late David Collins, it’s an iconic space with a lavish interior and more than a passing nod to the 1920s. The cocktails are world class – but gin holds a particularly elevated position ... Served from a trolley, with a carefully selected mix of botanicals, the gin cocktails are indeed a revelation, so much so that they now distil their own – Connaught Bar Gin. Its position as the “Best Bar in Europe” is entirely justified – it is definitely one of the finest drinking destinations across the world. the-connaught.co.uk

NORTH DUBLIN COASTAL VILLAGES Baily Lighthouse, Howth

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DELICIOUS ERUPTUS Inspired by the acclaimed

exhibition Last Supper in Pompeii at Oxford’s Ashmolean museum (ashmolean.org), chef Heston Blumenthal is currently showcasing a limited-time (until March 31) experiential menu at his inventive London restaurant DINNER. The “Taste History – Last Supper in Pompeii” menu recognises the important culinary lure of the immortal Roman town and presents a selection of dishes inspired by the carbonised, organic remains unearthed there by archaeologists. Enjoy “Carbonised Bread of Pompeii & Bay of Naples Butter”; “Smoked Pickled Mussels” (with garum and mussel cream, lovage, oyster leaf, purslane); “Duck & Turnip ref: Apicius” (left, comprising buttered black turnip, turnip cream, truffle with civet of duck, pearl barley, confit thigh, gizzards ...), and “Libum”, a goat’s curd cheesecake served with white-wine gel. The set menu is priced at £88 with individual dishes available to order à la carte. dinnerbyheston.co.uk

GRUB’S UP Come dine with Eoin Higgins.

DUB PLATES Two new Dublin restaurants worth making a

detour for are ex-Etto chef Barry Sun’s seductive, suburban bolthole Volpe Nera (volpenera.ie) in Blackrock, and accomplished kitchen confidante Niall Davidson’s city-centre hangout, Allta (allta.ie). In the former, chef Sun builds upon a solid foundation in European classics with subtle Asian flourish and embellishment, far right; while in the latter, Davidson provides a masterful contrivance of pleasurable small-plate confections, right, and memorable wines by the glass.

SMALL PLATES

Delectable Irish morsels from home and away.

KAI SPY Acclaimed Galway restaurant Kai’s much-loved Cookbook Club continues into 2020, with Dishoom’s From Bombay with Love next up for a browse on February 25. The Cookbook Club at Kai costs €55pp and includes a selection of dishes and a welcome drink. kairestaurant.ie

WILDE WINE February 5 sees Dublin’s glamorous Wilde restaurant, at The Westbury Hotel, host an edifying and entertaining evening with Napa Valley wine legend Bruce Cakebread – as part of an ongoing series of tempting Winemaker Dinners. See wilde.ie/ winemaker-dinners for the full roster.

GO ICHIGO Cork City’s luckiest diners are to enjoy an exclusive tasting menu – led by sake maestro Yuichi Hashimoto – at hotspot, Ichigo Ichie, on February 4. If you don’t manage to snag a ticket, you can still see what all the fuss is about with a regular reservation made via ichigoichie.ie.

BULK HEADS Zero-waste food store The Source Bulk Foods recently opened in the Dublin southside suburb of Rathmines, providing those with an environmentally virtuous yin a place to shop – bulk-buying has never felt so indulgent. thesourcebulkfoods.ie

HOT SPOTS A recent alliance between Green Spot Whiskey and The Palace Bar (Fleet Street) has resulted in an ethereal new whiskey expression. As it says on the box, Green Spot, The Palace Bar Exclusive Edition is available to taste exclusively at The Palace Bar, Dublin 2. thepalacebardublin.com

EXPERIENCE

AUTHENTIC IRISH HOSPITALIT Y Conrad Dublin provides a range of luxury services to ensure your meetings go as planned. Host a conference in our elegant Conrad Ballroom, which can accommodate up to 350 attendees or be divided into three smaller rooms for more intimate gatherings. Our six fully flexible meeting rooms offer additional space from 12 to 50 delegates and are equipped with state of the art facilities, including free Wi-Fi throughout. Whichever venue you choose, our experienced event planners will work with you every step of the way, ensuring every detail exceeds your expectations.

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland | Phone +353-1-602 8900 | ConradDublin.com

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DETOURIST

While wafting through the Windy City, Eoin Higgins discovers Pilsen, a Chicago neighbourhood awash with creativity.

ith its thirst-quenching moniker – the district is named after the Czech town where beer was ﬁrst brewed – Pilsen is suitably ﬁlled with kooky bars and piquant eateries. It is also home to swathes of engrossing street art, as well as having a well-earned reputation for its thriving gallery scene.

KING OF ARTS Pilsen is richly enhanced by its Latin American population and the cultural diversity it brings. One great manifestation of that rich ethnic seam is found at the National Museum of Mexican Art, a vast repository of absorbing Latino artefacts from folk art to photography to textiles and painting. nationalmuseumofmexicanart.org

CURE-ALL MURALS Embark on a visual odyssey around 16th Street and its environs to discover more of the neighbourhood’s colourful street art scene. In particular, scout out the railroad embankment and Halsted Street, where there is seldom a ﬂat surface that hasn’t been enhanced by international or local street artists via a kaleidoscope of graphic styles.

THE DETOURIST=

TACO SWELL In operation for almost 50 years, Taqueria Los Comales comes recommended to those looking for an authentic experience. Bring a gang and share the Comales Taco Tray: 20 freshly made tacos with a choice of ﬁllings, and a brimming pitcher of chilled horchata; amp up the heat with a ﬂavoursome side of chargrilled jalapeños. loscomales.com

MO’ WAX Put the needle on the record at 606 Records, where the groove leads directly to a thoughtfully curated, eclectic selection of small label, critically acclaimed and/or hard-to-ﬁnd vinyl releases. Swing by at the weekend and you might just catch a local DJ or musician spinning their personal selections live and direct. 606records.com

FRESH MINGLES Alongside an all-toorare authentic dive-bar experience, Skylark oﬀers a comfort food menu (the tater tots are addictive) that goes exceedingly well with a varied roster of top-notch local and international craft beers. The comfortable space also hosts an arty, laid-back crowd where conversation is easy and good cheer is abundant. skylarkchicago.com

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PHOTO ALBUM OF THE IRISH – US EDITION (foreword by Daniel Mulhall, ¤20) This book began as a digital archive project reflecting the everyday experiences of Ireland’s American diaspora, as seen through their family albums. The whole archive is on photoalbumoftheirish. com with this book showcasing the best images from the mid-19th century to the present: Michael E Flynn in his Union army uniform in 1863; the Carr sisters in domestic service in Massachusetts in 1910; Limerick-born David Gilligan, heavily bearded in 1870, and his descendant, Gerry Gilligan, sitting by a Long Island pool in 1964, left, and the newborn Simone Perry Gilligan in New York 2018. FICTION

AMERICAN DIRT by Jeanine Cummins (Tinder Press) Eight-year-old Luca and his mother, Lydia, are pitched catastrophically from middle-class comfort to calamity and must make the long migrant trek from Acapulco in South Mexico to cross the US border. Theirs is a desperate odyssey of subterfuge, trainhopping, bribery, friendship and fear, culminating in the long, cold hike through the desert.

SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican flicks through a documentary photo album, picks up some gardening tips and has a run through of the best upcoming literary festivals.

N AT U R E

A NATURAL YEAR by Michael Fewer (Merrion Press, out March 15) Broadcaster and nature author Fewer draws on his diaries living in South Dublin and rural Waterford to record the passage of nature. Full of photos, illustrations and great tips – put out nyjer seeds if you want goldfinches in the garden – and, revelation: the flower with a cowslip stalk “coloured slightly yellower than the primrose” is an oxlip. DESIGN

EILEEN GRAY, DESIGNER AND ARCHITECT edited by Cloe Pitiot and Nina Stritzler-Levine (Yale University Press) Gray, who now has a permanent exhibition in the National Museum of Ireland, has emerged from obscurity to be recognised as the most influential Irish designer and architect of the 20th century. This handsome, fully illustrated volume of essays chronicles her pioneering career.

FESTIVAL FEVER Spring means zig-zagging around for literary festivals. Start in Aberdeen on February 20-23 for the brilliantly named Granite Noir (granitenoir.com), the UK and Ireland’s most northerly crime writing festival, with Sara Paretsky, Ian Rankin, Ben Aaronovitch and bestselling Scandi authors. Then it’s the Ennis Book Club Festival (ennisbookclubfestival.com) in Co Clare on March 6-8, with five events for €55 with authors Emer McLysaght, Sarah Breen, Ruth Gilligan, Lemn Sissay and Sarah Moss. Two weeks later it’s the Cork International Poetry Festival (corkpoetryfest.net) from March 24-28, with US poet Paula Bohince, this year’s John Montague International Poetry Fellow. That overlaps with Dún Laoghaire’s Mountains to Sea (mountainstosea.ie) from March 26-29, showcasing Dublin writers on the theme “The State of Us”.

IT HAS BEEN A DECADE SINCE THE LAST SCREEN TREATMENT OF JANE AUSTEN’S EMMA – A BBC MINI-SERIES WITH ROMOLA GARAI – AND THAT’S FOREVER IN AUSTEN TERMS. VALENTINE’S DAY SEES THE RELEASE OF A NEW BIG SCREEN ADAPTATION, WITH PEAKY BLINDERS STAR ANYA TAYLOR-JOY, FAR RIGHT, DIRECTED BY NEWCOMER AUTUMN DE WILDE FROM A SCREENPLAY BY BOOKER WINNER ELEANOR CATTON. CAN IT RIVAL THE GWYNETH PALTROW 1996 FILM AND THE PEERLESS CLUELESS?

FOCUS FEATURES

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Where have you been on tour that you’d love to return to for a holiday? We played a show in Greece, which is always a good place to be. A few ouzos, some tzatziki and you’re laughing. Favourite music city? It has got to be Dublin. So many good, small-medium size venues, with innumerable interesting acts on every week. There’s a total place in my heart for The Workman’s especially, and Whelan’s, Vicar Street, The Button Factory. You’re never left wanting for a gig to go to or a dance to have, so we’re lucky in that respect.

JAMIE MACMILLAN

TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The next time a storm batters Ireland, the national grid should plug in The Murder Capital’s debut album, When I Have Fears, its nervous energy capable of restoring power. Growling guitars tempered by piano and violin make for a dark romance, as channelled by the Dublin fiveDream performance venue? piece’s frontman James McGovern, There are so many we who here talks touring and tzatziki. can’t wait to play but I think Where in Ireland do you go for downtime and why? Wherever my mama is would be the main criteria. If it’s for real relaxation, West Cork is the place – phone off and proper chill to the max.

The band’s music is often labelled as “post punk” — how would you describe Red Rocks Amphitheatre it? To be honest none of us in Colorado is next-level innately identifies as “punk” beautiful. That would – we obviously weren’t Best and worst things be unreal. alive when that movement about touring? The best took hold so we don’t feel that thing is definitely playing attached to it. That said, we do the shows. That feeling appreciate its morals and authenticity, between us and the fans, for those so there are parts of the punk era that minutes in the day, is a surreal energy we can attach our present selves to. Our and the further away you go from home, current sound is focused on allowing the more unreal it feels. It’s magic. I don’t for humanistic flaws and emotion to get homesick that often but the feeling run through its frame, while remaining of everyone’s lives at home continuing as malleable enough to keep ourselves normal, while you’re living in this cycle of entertained. Everyone calls it post-punk. six shows a week and living out of a van, So, I guess that’s what it is, for now. leaves you a bit disconnected at times.

How does travel affect your music? That’s something we talk about regularly. When you’re constantly on the road, you’re having so many repeated experiences that you could get stuck in a place of dulled creativity. It’s important to look inward on the road, take note of your dreams and try to look at your creativity from a different perspective, so that it stays in motion.

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HOMEMADE

From midnight skies to seashore scents, blue accents provide reasons to be cheerful this season.

1. POT LUCK

Adam Frew Ceramics is a crowdfunding sucess story, Frew having been able to set up his own studio in Co Derry as a result. As well as producing playful ceramics there, he also hosts master classes. Teapot £155 at adamfrew.com.

2. DO OR DYE

A multitasking must-have made in Harold’s Cross, Dublin, this Kathryn Davey Irish linen wonder triples as a scarf, shawl and a bed throw. Tinted with natural plant dyes, it is a pleasing, and classy, pop of indigo. €238 at kathryndavey.com.

3. DOFF TIME

Brace the erratic winter elements in style with Shevlin Millinery’s Panama French Trilby hat. Sturdy wool felt and with a silken sash, it’s a modern classic. €75 at the Design Lane studio in Dublin’s Temple Bar. designlane.ie

4. NICE SLICE

Handcrafted by Avoca-Wicklowbased Chaïm Factor, this elegant carving knife and fork set’s steel blade and smooth, wooden handle allow for an easy slice. Comes in yew, walnut and sycamore. €215 at hillpicketstudio.com.

5. HIT NACRE

Made with cultured pearls and sterling silver leaves, Martina Hamilton’s Leaf Collection includes this delicate bracelet and pendant duo. A light and lovely touch to spring attire. Bracelet €135, necklace €190 at martinahamilton.ie.

6. FOR SHORE

Acquire all the aromatic benefits of a coastal breeze minus the risk of being windblown or chilled to the bone. Soilse’s Connemara Mist Diffuser combines clean, mineral-rich scents to evoke the wild Atlantic ocean and its environs. €29 at soilsecandlecompany.ie.

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WEEKENDER

RED HOT HISTORY Paris in springtime is like nowhere else. Shayna Sappington visits and discovers a bolthole whose heritage is as racy as its decor is charming – the Hotel Le10Bis.

he alluring City of Lurve beckons hopeless romantics and solo travellers alike to indulge in its bougie bazaars, culinary delights and magnifique artistry – the Louvre topped the world’s fine art museum list with a record-breaking 10.2 million visitors in 2018. This Valentine’s Day, forego Paris’ colossal hotel chains for a more authentic experience at the swish, boutique Hotel Le10Bis. It is not only centrally located (a mere ten-minute walk to the Arc de Triomphe and Champs-Élysées), but its history intertwines with a Parisian scandal that long-time locals have often told in strict entre-nous confidence. During WWII, the French Resistance faced a foe in the form of tendentious Lucienne Goldfarb, real name Kajla, aka “Katia la Rouquine” (the redhead). Her parents, of Polish-Jewish heritage, were arrested during Germany’s occupation of France. She remained free, however, and

went on to become a “lady of the night” and eventual owner of one of the hottest bordellos in Paris – now Hotel Le10Bis. Reportedly, Lucienne became very close to her main clientele – police officers, and acted as their informant. In 1943, her reports led to the arrest and execution of leaders of the FTP-MOI, a branch of the French Resistance spearheaded by Henri Krasucki. Some say her information was in exchange for the release of her parents, while others think it was for personal gain.

And while the controversial redhead’s brothel is no more, its history is preserved in the renovated hotel. Architect Elsa Joseph aimed to maintain the building’s intimacy, allowing for just 21 rooms and two suites – each emanating chichi comfort, with golden browns and deep blues – while modern touches include an espresso coffee maker, Smart HD TV, Rituals toiletries and a smartphone, pre-loaded with info on recommended local haunts, in each room. Downstairs, the lobby is stocked with magazines and newspapers, as well as books about the building’s past. And while the breakfast on offer is minimal – pastries, charcuterie, yoghurts – the hotel’s hero is its Honesty Bar, gloriously stocked with an international array of tasty teas, coffee, spirits and wines (a godsend when it comes to low-key nightcaps). Ideal for weekend visitors with limited time to explore the area, its central location is also 1.5 kilometres from the gorgeous Bois du Boulogne park – the former royal hunting grounds for the French monarchy. These days, the 873-hectare park is open to the public, its vast foliage dotted with lakes, nature trails, botanic gardens and the renowned arts, culture and heritage centre, the Louis Vuitton Foundation – definitely worth a visit while you’re in town. Rooms from €134 – and if you book through the hotel’s website, receive a ten per cent discount. (10bis rue de Débarcadére, +33 1 5537 1010; le10bishotel-paris.com)

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UNIFORM SPECIAL

PROJECT RUNWAY

Twenty-two years after Louise Kennedy designed her first Aer Lingus uniform, here she reveals its successor, combining evergreen style and functionality. WORDS MARIE KELLY PHOTOGRAPHS BARRY McCALL

UNIFORM SPECIAL

or the second time, Irish designer Louise Kennedy has swapped one runway for another, having created the latest uniform for Aer Lingus. The challenge was to bring the airline’s uniform into the next decades with a clean, contemporary look that didn’t compromise functionality and, suffice to say, this award-winning designer excelled at the task. The Louise Kennedy brand is an institution in Ireland; the fashion designer occupies one of the city’s most exclusive premises on Dublin’s Merrion Square. Over four, exquisitely furnished floors, she and her team work with the finest fabrics – cashmere, crêpe, silk – to create clothes for clients as diverse and desirable as Middle Eastern royalty and Oscar winner Meryl Streep. The realities of designing comfortable, functional and flattering uniforms for the male and female staff of a four-star airline are complex, though nothing this design maven couldn’t contend with. In January – 22 years after her first Aer Lingus uniform design was rolled out – Kennedy’s collection of mix-and-match

Louise Kennedy has updated the traditional shade by cleverly combining a blue and green yarn to create a softly irridescent hue

separates for female staff (jacket, skirt, dress, top, cardigan, coat and, for the first time, trousers), and two-piece suits for their male peers, started to be worn by a whole new generation of Aer Lingus staff. Kennedy fulfilled the brief with her unfussy but subtly detailed tailoring. One of the earliest directions she was given by staff was that they felt strongly the iconic green should remain the anchor shade of the newest Aer Lingus uniform. Kennedy has updated the traditional shade by cleverly combining a blue and green yarn to create a softly irridescent hue. The luminosity and tactile texture of the new pieces smack of Kennedy’s premium aesthetic. The Tipperary-born designer has also modernised the uniform by developing the perfect shade of “Midnight” navy to work alongside the refreshed shade

of “Kenmare Green”. “Black would have looked too severe,” she explains, “plus the pilots wear black, while navy is a colour that suits every size and every complexion.” Kennedy chose to reinvent the uniform’s suit blazer with a cropped jacket with invisible placket. Its collarless design and three-quarter-length sleeves give it a jaunty yet chic feel that removes it very firmly from the staid, corporate aesthetic some airlines seem married to. Similarly, a cute navy cardigan with a triple green stripe at each cuff looks refreshingly modern. Worn with the navy, high-waisted pants, it reﬂects very much how modern women dress: an artful mix of structure and softness. The male stewards, who had very firmly requested she deliver a solid two-piece suit, were also thrilled with the crisp, single-

PHOTOGRAPHS COURRESY OF BARRY McCALL

UNIFORM SPECIAL

breasted, shower-proof coat, which they revealed they would happily wear when off-duty as well. Kennedy explains that every design decision proposed was supported by solid research and feedback. Her team regularly approached both Aer Lingus staff (“Nobody was afraid to put up their hand and contribute,” she says) and the public to gauge their reactions to colours and cuts, while they liaised with a former Hermès consultant on how best to design a neck scarf that would look chic when knotted but wouldn’t pose a security risk. For the same reason, the men’s ties (which come in a smart shade Kennedy calls “Sapphire”) are clip-on. Kennedy’s fingerprints are evident across every single piece in this collection, not least the female crews’ compact handbag with chain detailing. Having invested hugely in the design of her iconic “Kennedy” handbag, she understood fully how to marry form and function but inject the end product with a touch of panache. “One of my favourite parts of this project was designing the handbag,” she admits, as she proudly hangs a sample bag from her shoulder.

First we’ll take Manhattan ... from February 10, 2020, the all-new uniform will be rolled out across each and every Aer Lingus flight.

Knowing they needed their fabrics to include certain yarns, “such as elastic to add stretch and improve comfort, and polyester to ease creasing,” she explains, Kennedy’s team was advised to work with a large-scale mill that specialises in uniforms. “The quality control checks – rub tests, durability checks etc – were extensive and time-consuming, so to have worked with a mill without this level of

scale and experience would have meant a far longer testing time, which we didn’t have.” The effort, energy and genuine affection invested in this commission by Kennedy and her team are evident as they gather around a computer to show me the slick photo shoot of the new uniform taken in New York, with the high rises of Hudson Yards and a moody Brooklyn Bridge as the backdrop. Kennedy has certainly fulfilled her brief to modernise the look for Aer Lingus staff in 2020 but, more than that, through her clever edit of interchangeable capsule pieces, she has managed to create a uniform that imbues authority but doesn’t obscure personality. Now that’s clever design.

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elcome to Dublin’s newest entertainment venue, The Camden, located in a landmark Dublin building that originally housed the 400-seat Camden Deluxe Cinema, established in 1912. Its striking exterior was remodelled in an Art Deco/ Egyptian style in 1934 when seating capacity was further increased to accommodate Dubliners’ insatiable appetite for big-screen entertainment. According to local folklore, Hollywood

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star Rita Hayworth attended a screening busiest clubs in the city until it closed here in the 1950s ... The storied in 2011. Upon taking over the venue cinema closed its doors in 1974, but there has been a new vision to create a the following year it was reopened as contemporary entertainment complex Ricardo’s Amusement Hall. At that time, for all ages, with a host of different the interior also served as a location for entertainment options under one roof. another star of cinema, the legendary Choose from a flagship cocktail bar and Dublin film, The Commitments, shot in restaurant, a sports bar with a gigantic 1991, also a pioneering time for the city’s 4K screen, The 5 Lamps Brewery & burgeoning nightlife scene. Visitor Centre, a private 60-seat cinema, In 1998, The Palace nightclub a speakeasy bar, Jimmy Rabbitte’s local opened on the historic site, adding bar and a 40-bedroom hotel. hotel accommodation. It was one of the For more info visit thecamden.ie.

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INTERVIEW

G N I C N A L BA ACT Who’s that girl? asked audiences, when Niamh Algar appeared on our screens in gritty dramas Pure and The Virtues, a question that will be answered with a new film release – and plenty more to come. WORDS SUSAN CORRIGAN

cene: a crisp, early winter’s afternoon in London’s Soho, with packed streets and exuberant executives indulging in liquid lunches – not a thing of the past in this particular corner of the city. “Boo!” Niamh Algar has arrived, seemingly out of nowhere, and she’s ready to go. A willowy but tomboyish performer, she turns up immaculately dressed at the bustling, chaotic hotel bar. Her smiling eyes and ready laughter belie the serious approach to her acting craft, honed over nearly a decade, that’s now garnering rave reviews in a series of gritty roles for directors such as Shane Meadows, the recent Irish feature film The Last Right and (soon) Ridley Scott, earning her a place as a BAFTA Rising Star. All in all, Algar is not just one to watch, but one whose transformations turn the act of watching her into something much less passive. Today, Algar is flying the flag for Calm with Horses, the debut feature from director Nick Rowland, adapted by Joe Murtagh from a story in Colin Barrett’s award-winning 2014 collection Young Skins. “I was aware of the story before I knew Nick would be making the film, but I knew his work from shorts I’d seen and I knew a lot of the people who

eventually became involved,” she explains. “He’s such a sweetheart; his whole idea with making this thriller was to have a heartbeat within it.” Produced by Michael Fassbender’s company DMC Film, it tells the story of ex-boxer Arm, played by Cosmo Jarvis, whose limited options in a run-down, Irish seaside town give him little choice but to become an enforcer for a local family of drug-running mobsters. Algar plays Arm’s expartner Ursula, the mother of their non-verbal, autistic son Jack; the film follows Arm’s efforts to keep mother and son at a remove from the corruption – and Ursula’s attempts to gain a new stability. “Ursula has a very strong sense of self and she knows she has this responsibility for a very vulnerable little boy,” Algar says. “She’s very smart, very empathetic and knowledgeable, so when she sees Arm struggling, she understands him. Because they have this little boy, Jack, there are times when she melts back into their history – just like you would in any relationship.” To research the role, Algar met a number of social workers and foster parents, plus people from Autism Ireland who helped her flesh out the character and portray

INTERVIEW

I’ve always found when kids are on set, it’s a lovely, warm environment. Everyone tries that little bit harder to create a safe space the challenge of parenting an autistic child. “At the end of the day, you’re trying to portray the character honestly – it’s not a direct lift or a documentary. It’s also a challenge to work with an actor of that age, but I’ve always found when kids are on set, it’s a lovely, warm environment. Everyone tries that little bit harder to create a safe space, where everyone has to be nice and there’s no cursing.” Algar uses every role as an opportunity for self-education; her pathway to film stardom began as a child growing up in Mullingar, Co Westmeath. “No one from where I grew up worked professionally as an actor. As a kid, I always loved the idea of pretending to be different characters, telling stories and making up little short films with

our old video camera. Once the idea was turned on, I couldn’t ever switch it off.” Her parents – dad, an engineer and mum, a nurse – were broadly supportive, but they wanted her to have a plan in reserve, so she won a place to study design at Dublin’s Institute of Technology and headed for the capital. “I feel very at home in London and Dublin and always saw myself as living in a city. When I got there, I found myself going to the theatre, auditioning for roles and trying to make that work with college,” she says. Dublin offered many opportunities outside traditional drama degrees for an aspiring actor; Algar spent time working on sets as a runner and production assistant, learning about every aspect of film and television making, but it was her enrolment in auteur Jim Sheridan’s weekly screen performance workshops that first gave her talent an opportunity to shine. She paints Dublin as an exciting city teeming with young talent drawn from all over Ireland, happily making lifelong friends right across the creative disciplines, helping each other to catch that big break. “What you learn there is how to be open to working with different directors – you

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INTERVIEW

THE LIKES OF NIAMH READING “I spend so much time reading scripts, when I have free time I’m usually reading true crime or biographies – but I like short stories, too, and my friend Nicole Flattery, who I went to school with, has an incredible way of capturing dark humour. Her collection, Show Them a Good Time, is amazing and one of the stories in it, Tracks, is my absolute favourite. Colin Barrett, who wrote the short story Calm with Horses that the film is based on, was her mentor – which I didn’t find out until after I made the film. Her star is rising.”

“I went to South Africa last year to start work on Raised by Wolves – it’s an SF drama where Earth has depleted all its natural resources and we’re forced to look ... elsewhere for human survival. It’s Ridley’s TV baby, and since I’m seeing it more completely by doing additional dialogue in post-production, at this point I think I’m allowed to say it looks amazing!” After a flash of hugs and laughter, it’s time for her to jump on a plane back to Dublin, then on to family she hasn’t seen in ages before production resumes on Guy Ritchie’s Cash Tank. “Working with Ridley this year, you see the way he’s able to run the floor and portray a vision, you can’t help but have that rub off on you,” she says. “In the craft of acting you never stop learning, and you take that knowledge on from one job to the next. It can be such a surprising industry. Even on the toughest shoots, those are the ones you wind up learning the most about yourself.” Algar’s enthusiasm for her work – and the lilting charm she brings to the serious subjects she’s charged with – is allconsuming, fresh and utterly genuine. “I don’t take myself very seriously but the job I do is another story entirely!” Calm with Horses starring Niamh Algar and Barry Keoghan screens at the Virgin Media Dublin International Film Festival – which runs this February 26 until March 8 – and is on general release in cinemas from March 13. diff.ie

LISTENING “I’m actually heading home to Dublin tonight to see a gig by Clara Belle, whose first EP City I Love U comes out soon. I’m also one for creating Spotify playlists for each of the characters I play – there was a lot of Oasis for Dinah in The Virtues – but I got caught out with one top-secret role because I hadn’t made the character’s playlist private … I thought only I could see it!” DOWNTIME “I love sushi, so when I’m in London I pretty much live in Taro – it’s always packed but it’s not fancy. In Dublin I love DiFontaine’s for pizza by the slice, plus Musashi on Capel Street and Yamamori for sushi. When I lived in Kilmainham in Dublin, I’d always drink in the teeny-tiny pub The Old Royal Oak. It’s just a bar and two snugs, but in summertime everyone spills onto the street outside for the best pints of Guinness.”

STILL FROM CALM WITH HORSES COURTESY OF ELEMENT PICTURES

learn that no two sets are the same. There wasn’t anywhere else in Ireland at that time where you could learn screen acting and it became my first formal training,” she says. This 360-degree immersion in every aspect of filmmaking has left her with an ambition to direct her own films one day, just as the films of Frances McDormand, Gena Rowlands and Charlize Theron provided a blueprint for the kind of serious roles she once aspired to play – and now does. Algar’s big international break came as Dinah, a traumatised female lead in Shane Meadows’ universally acclaimed miniseries The Virtues; the director’s practice of workshopping his productions proved a good fit – and she won the role on her first audition in London. “My best education in screen acting has been with Shane because he grounds everything in truth,” she says. The emotionally charged series also allowed her to show off her skills as an amateur boxer, another idiosyncrasy that makes the young actor stand out. “Tactically, Dinah can box her way out of anything, but there’s so many pieces she can’t pick up.” That performance brought her to the attention of director Ridley Scott, whose first selfdirected television series, Raised by Wolves, sees Algar making her debut on HBO Max later in the year. The project was until recently so confidential, Algar wasn’t even allowed to tell family any specifics. Now, she can be more forthcoming – but only slightly:

WATCHING “Unbelievable on Netflix, with Toni Collette playing the detective – I love her – and this incredible actress Kaitlyn Dever, who plays the young woman at the heart of the story. I just finished Chernobyl – I’ve been working with Alex Ferns, who won the BAFTA scholarship for his role in it. He played the miner from the team that goes in and digs underneath. It’s a heavy watch and it came out at the same time as The Virtues, so I’ve only now just caught up because I can only deal with one harrowing watch at a time.”

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STRONG WORDS Ireland has long been praised as the birthplace of great writers and, to this day, small, independent book publishers are continuing the tradition of bringing timeless stories to readers across the world. WORDS MEG WALKER PHOTOGRAPHS DOREEN KILFEATHER

n a world filled with distractions, pop-up notifications and simply too much information, more and more of us are turning to books to feed a hunger that cannot be satiated by yet another newsfeed or social media thread. But have you ever considered how many people are involved in the making of that bestseller you curl up with? The writer – quite rightly – gets the majority of the credit, but every good writer needs an editor, a publicist, a cover illustrator ... and a publisher who believed in the story enough to ensure it got into the hands of a reader willing to part with cash and, more importantly, precious time. Amongst the countless tomes being written and published across the globe is a considerable number of notable books produced by Irish publishers. Ireland is home to quite a healthy publishing industry that includes branches of the big internationals working alongside several smaller companies, all in pursuit of bringing quality writing to readers, whatever the genre. Maybe it’s simply down to Ireland’s reputation as the land of saints and scholars and the fact that this country gave birth to Joyce, Yeats, Swift and Wilde, along with countless others, that words are so ingrained in the culture. Whatever the reason, this nation’s love of storytelling is as strong as ever. Most remarkable – in an age where fast and financially secure seem to be the ultimate goals – are the small, independent publishing houses that have made it their mission to focus their business on unearthing new writers, to bring fresh voices to the masses and take the reading experience to a new level. Here is just a handful of ones who are flying it in 2020.

TRAMP PRESS Founded in 2014 by Sarah Davis-Goff, left, and Lisa Coen, right, Tramp Press has enjoyed huge success in its six years. “Lisa and I were working at another small press in Dublin,” says Davis-Goff. “One of us joked about how we should start our own press and the idea just really took hold. We felt we could publish brilliant works that other people were missing and do it well.” And that they did. Notable titles include Mike McCormack’s Solar Bones, Sara Baume’s Spill Simmer Falter Wither, and Tramp’s first non-fiction title, Emilie Pine’s Notes to Self. “We’re different from other publishers in how we approach the process – some will throw a load into the marketplace and hope one or two make a dent. We’ll only ever publish works that are skin-prickingly, heartstoppingly brilliant, and we’ll publish them with great care, attention to detail, and force.” Last year, they added a third member to the Tramp team – Laura Waddell, who’s based in the UK. “We wanted to create a publisher that’s as ambitious as our writers, and that means selling just as well in the UK as we do here.” Supported by the Arts Council, Tramp will release a non-fiction/ memoir by Sara Baume called Handiwork in March; then Doireann Ní Ghríofa’s “stunningly unusual prose debut”, A Ghost in the Throat, in April. “All our books are outstanding works of literary merit and it’s wonderful to see our ambition for each book result in prize nominations and reprints. But every now and then one will really take off, and you nearly feel like you can see the whole world tilt a little, that the craft has shifted slightly again, and that readers are ready to take risks with the author. That’s immensely exciting. Persuading the Booker Prize committee to start allowing Irish publishers to enter was another huge wow moment for us.”

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THE STINGING FLY PRESS “I moved to Dublin in 1995,” says co-founder of The Stinging Fly Declan Meade, right. “I was interested in writing stories and met other writers in groups and workshops. We sat around complaining that there were few places interested in publishing new writing, particularly short stories.” This led to Meade co-founding The Stinging Fly magazine in 1998. “We discovered there was great work out there waiting to be published. After a few years, the logical next step was to start publishing books. I’d also discovered that I loved editing and publishing and was happier working on that side of things rather than struggling to write myself.” The Stinging Fly Press was launched in May 2005 and in 2018, it published a 20-year anthology, Stinging Fly Stories, which Meade edited with Sarah Gilmartin, featuring 40 stories from the magazine. In those 22 years, Meade has witnessed plenty of ups and downs. “The biggest challenge was to keep it going, particularly in the early days when there wasn’t much funding, but I learned that it was important to buckle down, work harder. I believed in what I was trying to do, so it was a matter of holding out until others started to see things the same way.” This year will see two issues of the magazine, edited by Danny Denton, left, one a special issue in partnership with Galway 2020: European Capital of Culture, plus two new short story collections: Cathy Sweeney’s Modern Times and Philip Ó Ceallaigh’s Trouble. “Publishing is always changing. Current discussions around improving access and increasing diversity are far more important than when publishers sat around talking about which electronic device was going to be the next big thing. I’m hopeful these discussions will lead to positive change and I feel we have an opportunity in Ireland to help lead the way.”

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THE LILLIPUT PRESS The Lilliput Press was founded in 1984 by Antony Farrell in Co Westmeath before he moved the business to Dublin’s Stoneybatter in 1989. More than 600 titles have appeared under its imprint, covering topics from art, music and architecture to autobiography, memoir, history, essays, philosophy, fiction, drama and poetry, all broadly focused on Irish themes. “Publishing has grown in Ireland from a cottage industry, when we started with a lot of small independents, to what it is now, but we are still maintaining our integrity and finding new voices,” says Farrell. What sets Lilliput apart is “the originality of our writers, our voices, the quality of our design. I would see us trying to emulate The Dolmen Press – the great literary imprint of my childhood, founded by Liam and Josephine Miller

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in 1951, which lasted 36 years; and Lilliput will be 36 this year, so, you know, we’ve matched their record,” he laughs. “I started Lilliput in order to publish a great Kilkenny writer called Hubert Butler. And then we discovered Tim Robinson and later, John Moriarty. In 1993, we published The Growth Illusion by Richard Douthwaite – he was the first writer to pinpoint climate change in that book. The books I’m most proud of bringing to life again are the Joyce books – we published the first Dublin edition of Ulysses in 1997 by text editor Danis Rose. We then did his Finnegans Wake in 2010. Our edition of Dubliners is illustrated by artist Louis le Brocquy.” Lilliput also published Irish author Donal Ryan’s earliest novels, including The Spinning Heart. For 2020, Lilliput, which receives support from the Arts Council, will release

Adrian Duncan’s second book, A Sabbatical in Leipzig, Alice Lyons’ first novel, Oona, and a non-fiction called Are You With Me? by CNN correspondent Mike Chinoy; subtitled “Kevin Boyle and the Rise of the Human Rights Movement”, it’s the life story of one of the world’s great human rights lawyers, the son of a taxi driver from Newry. Lilliput will also publish a centenary paperback edition of Tones that are Tender: Percy French 1854-1920 by Berrie O’Neill. “One book in eight makes money,” warns Farrell. “That’s true right across the board, whether you’re a corporate or an independent. You have to follow your instincts as to what you believe the public should read. It’s a struggle but also a privilege. There’s an increasing need for the book as a quiet reflective space. Reading things on screen is not an immersive process. That’s why the book will endure.”

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NEW ISLAND BOOKS “In 1992, Dermot Bolger, Fergal Stanley and I founded New Island as a successor to Dermot’s Raven Arts Press,” reflects German-born publisher Edwin Higel, centre. “Taking our name from Yeats’ Letters to the New Island, we set out to publish groundbreaking insights into Irish life, literature and culture.” New Island Books soon published Joseph O’Connor’s The Secret World of the Irish Male and Nuala O’Faolain’s Are You Somebody?, which has since sold more than a million copies. “In those first days, we delivered books in the basket of our bicycle; now we ship all over the world,” says Higel. “The digital revolution has also required print books to be better looking and feeling. Readers expect a high standard of production and finish, and while that’s fun from a design and production point of view, it’s challenging in a business model that has evolved into discounts, small margins and reduced royalties for authors.” “One thing I’ve learned is that there is no formula for a book’s success,” says MD Mariel Deegan, right. “Every publisher will tell you stories of their unexpected bestsellers but, for every bestseller, there will be the heroic failures, when no matter how good a book is, it just doesn’t capture the public imagination. Independent publishing is a tough business and there have been times when we’ve almost not made it through the year. But making books is like an addiction, and you’re never more than a few steps away from a success.” Commissioning editor Aoife K Walsh, left, says New Island has “never been afraid to publish entertaining, provocative, mind-changing and important books”, with a track record in finding new talent, like Sue Rainsford, Oisín Fagan, June Caldwell, and Andrew Meehan. “As an independent Irish press, our first priority is our readers in Ireland; but with our partnerships with international publishers and agents, we always have an eye on a global audience when considering submissions.” So, what’s in store for 2020? Christine Dwyer Hickey’s 2004 novel-memoir Tatty will be republished to coincide with it being chosen as the 2020 Dublin One City One Book, while Marianne Lee’s debut, A Quiet Tide, and In Her Shoes: Women of the Eighth by Erin Darcy will also be published.

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BANSHEE PRESS Set up in 2014 by writers Laura Jane Cassidy, Claire Hennessy and Eimear Ryan, Banshee Press started out as a literary journal. “We’d been friends for years,” says Hennessy, “and had discussed what we’d do if we were publishers. We were noticing what was going on with other literary journals and realised it was the moment to commit.” The trio produced two issues of the Banshee literary journal each year and felt it provided a foundation for bringing out one book per year down the line. Their first book – Paris Syndrome, a collection of short stories by Wicklow writer Lucy Sweeney Byrne – was published last September to great acclaim. “There were aspects of publishing we were familiar with more in theory than practice, particularly on the publicity, sales and distribution side of things. We’ve been lucky to work with great people – Cormac Kinsella for publicity, Brookside Publishing Services for sales and Gill Books for distribution. The reception Paris Syndrome received has definitely given us a boost but mostly we’re delighted for Lucy, who is incredibly talented and hardworking.” Over the next two or three years, the Banshee team will be focusing on collections – essays, short stories, poetry – with a particular focus on authors previously published in the Banshee journal who’ve yet to publish full-length collections. “It often amazes people how long it takes to prepare a book for the market, but it’s vital to give every stage the time and energy it needs.”

Established in 2017 by Gráinne O’Toole, right, and Fionnuala Cloke, left, Skein Press started out with one aim – to publish thought-provoking fiction that started conversations. “We were interested in finding work that reflected under-represented themes we weren’t seeing in Irish literature,” says O’Toole. “When we discovered [Nigerian-born author] Melatu Uche Okorie’s work, we thought it was highly original and should be read widely. That inspired us to publish our first book.” That book was Okorie’s acclaimed 2018 This Hostel Life, a collection of stories of the hidden lives of migrant women, set in Ireland, which tackled issues such as direct provision and casual racism. “Its reception confirmed to us that there’s an audience for the type of literature we’re seeking to publish. We want to publish writing that makes us think and question, that delights in its cleverness or beauty. The stories have to move us but, other than that, we have no rules. We just want to support writers to tell the stories they want to tell.” Skein Press has two books due out in 2020: a new collection of short stories from Okorie and Oein DeBharduin’s Why the Moon Travels, a retelling of stories from the Traveller oral tradition and illustrated by artist Leanne McDonagh. It will be the first of its kind published in Ireland and will capture several aspects of the Traveller culture. “Hearing gorgeous prose flow out of Oein DeBharduin – he speaks his stories before writing them down – was astonishing.”

CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE IRISH WRITERS CENTRE, BOOKS UPSTAIRS, THE WINDING STAIR, THE NATIONAL LIBRARY OF IRELAND

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LOUGH OF AGES

At 150 sq km, Strangford Lough in Co Down is one of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most biodiverse regions. It is also a prime spot for human hibernation: think cobweb-blowing walks, fireside naps and high-quality comfort food. WORDS NICOLA BRADY PHOTOGRAPHS MELANIE MULLAN

Clockwise from far left, evening light on Strangford Lough; the view from the roof at Helenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tower; cosy comforts at Overwood; colossal Dexter beef burgers at Fodder.

he wind is whipping through the treetops, the branches swaying ferociously as the storm picks up speed. What few leaves remain on the canopy are fluttering down towards the ground, landing on frosty grass and frozen mud. But none of that matters to me. I’m sitting far above it all, on a velvet window seat in a tower that looms mightily over the wilds of Co Down. There’s a steaming cup of coffee in my hands, a woolly scarf over my flannel pyjamas, and the embers from last night’s fire burst back into life with just the slightest nudge of encouragement. If ever the word “cosy” were looking for a poster girl, I would be it. As something of a misanthrope, with a natural disinclination for the outside world and an overwhelming urge to hibernate come winter, Helen’s Tower is a dream come true (see “Travel Essentials” on page 64). Deep in the woodland, at the end of a long and winding lane, you won’t see another soul unless you choose to. You can stand in the poetry room, a wood-panelled sanctuary with a magnificent vaulted ceiling, reciting the poem Tennyson wrote about this very

STRANGFORD LOUGH

tower. Or you can head down the spiral stone staircase to the floor below, flop on a dreamily oversized sofa and read the unauthorised biography of Robert Pattinson that somehow ended up on the bookshelf. That’s the room in which I’d happily see away winter, with the scent of burning turf in the air and a pile of books by my side. But when you consider what’s on the doorstep, to hibernate would almost be a crime. The next morning, the sun is splitting the stones and, while the air is bitingly cold, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of bundling up and heading out for a stomp around the countryside when your breath leaves little clouds in your wake. The grounds of the Clandeboye Estate (clandeboye.co.uk) are the perfect setting for a country walk. Giant trees soar haphazardly around peaceful, still ponds, so quiet you could hear a pin drop. A red squirrel may scutter across the footpath or, if you time it right, a deer or two may pop out of the bushes. It’s a similar scene over at Finnebrogue Woods (finnebroguewoods.com), at the mouth of Strangford Lough. The air is filled with the scent of bonfires and

Top, Helen’s Tower is the perfect place in which to curl up with a book by the fire and, above, Jim Nicholson from JN Wines — see “Travel Essentials”, page 64.

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Nosy around the living room at Mount Stewart, which is complete with a fetching fox lamp and a fully stocked bar cart

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grilling burgers, as visitors arrive to walk the woodland trails before warming the cockles with a hot chocolate in the Nordic tipi. Though a fire roars at the entrance to the Fodder Farm Shop & Café, there’s another firepit inside the tipi itself, which is bedecked with twinkly lights and thick wooden tables. Though the sun is blazing outside the tipi, it doesn’t take long before the weather takes a turn. The best place to duck away from the freezing rain? Mount Stewart (nationaltrust.org.uk), a Neoclassical country pile on the eastern shore of the lough. Filled to the brim with enviable memorabilia, the house as it stands now was the brainchild of the deliciously

Above, inhale the fresh, woody air in the gardens at Mount Stewart. Opposite, clockwise from top left, one of many hallways to explore at Mount Stewart; Robbie Stewart of Overwood; meaty moments at Overwood; Fodder’s Laura Bayley.

eccentric Edith, Lady Londonderry, who oversaw the decor and the gardens, where she commissioned stone statues of unusual creatures with names such as Charlie the Cheater (after her husband, who was rumoured to have a wandering paw …) Though the Londonderry family still live in the house for half the year, their private rooms are open when they’re away, so you can nosy around their living room, complete with a rather fetching ceramic fox lamp and a bar cart fully stocked with champagne, whiskey and the fixings of a G&T. Not too far away, one of the best gin distilleries in the country is brewing up a storm. Rademon Estate Distillery (rademonestatedistillery.com) is the home of Shortcross Gin, made with pure water fresh from their well and botanicals foraged from the estate, such as apple, wild clover, elderflower and elderberries. Distillery tours end with a G&T masterclass, where you’ll learn how to pour the perfect glass, jazzing it up with a frond of pine and a twist of orange zest.

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The masterclass at Tracey’s Farmhouse Kitchen (traceysfarmhouse kitchen.com) is just as delicious. I arrive at her thatched cottage on a chilly afternoon, and her welcome is as warm as the fire blazing in the kitchen. Between a few hours of nattering, she teaches me how to make soda farls and potato bread, both of which we slather in Abernethy dulse butter and scoff as the sunlight fades and the beams from the full moon bounce on the lough. But there’s barely time to register a full stomach. This part of the country is a hotbed for culinary masterminds,

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and one of the most revered is the chef Danni Barry, who is at the helm of the restaurant Overwood (see “Travel Essentials”, page 64), which opened in 2019. While the restaurant itself is sexily sleek, all cobalt leather and open fires, the menu is the epitome of comfort food: think sultry, charred Chateaubriand and ash-baked potatoes blistered with Cavanbert cheese. And you’ll want to smother everything you eat with the thick, glossy Bordelaise butter, unctuous with bone marrow and the silky tang of red wine. The next morning, I take a pot of fresh coffee down to the lake. The mist is rolling over the water, a couple of donkeys are plodding in the field, and the only other person I see is a man far in the distance, walking a gaggle of dogs. I mightn’t be able to hide away from the world forever, but I sure am willing to give it a try.

Top, pack your wellies for beautiful walks around Co Down and, above, the impossibly glossy lab, Duck, is host with the most at Finnebrogue Woods. Next page, exquisite cooking at Overwood.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS EAT VILLAGE On the charming village square in Comber, No 14 at the Georgian House is the place to go if you fancy elegant but hearty food served in a room made toasty with open fires. It’s an excellent option for local game – think rare venison with beetroot and roasted onion jam. (14 The Square, Comber, +44 28 9131 1106; no14georgianhouse.com) GASTROPUB Part country boozer, part gastro pub, Poacher’s Pocket is exactly the ticket for a chilly winter’s day. With a menu filled with warmers such as sausages and creamy mustard mash, or juicy roasted pheasant with duck fat chips, their food is like a hug in a bowl. There’s an excellent farm shop on site, too. (181 Killinchy Road, Comber, +44 28 9754 1589; ballooinns.com) FOODIE It’s no surprise that diners at Overwood have a tendency to over-order. When a menu is this stuffed with droolworthy dishes, you just want to unbutton your jeans and order the whole damn thing. There’s an excellent selection of wines also. (1 Comber Road, Killinchy, +44 28 9754 1210; ballooinns.com)

STAY GLAMPING Right on the lakeshore, the cosy wooden Pebble Pods are super snug. Each has its own hot tub, where you can soak with a glass of bubbles and the campfire is lit every evening – they even provide the marshmallows. Pods from £120. (Ringhaddy Road, Killinchy; pebblepods.com) FORTIFYING Dating back to 1848, Helen’s Tower is run by the Irish Landmark Trust. Keep the fireplace stacked, the fridge full of local treats, and you’ll never want to leave. From £292 for two nights. (Bangor, Co Down, 01 670 4733; irishlandmark.com) COUNTRY The gorgeous 18th-century Tyrella House is surrounded by woodland, with a sandy beach just steps away – so plenty of opportunities for walking. When you get back, warm yourself by the fire or

pop on the electric blanket and climb back into bed. Rooms from £120. (90 Clanmaghery Road, Downpatrick, +44 28 4485 1422; tyrellahouse.com)

– signal is often patchy on the country roads. Stick to Sat Nav or a good old-fashioned road map. Also, the Discover Northern Ireland website (discovernorthernireland.com) is a goldmine for places of interest.

SMART TIPS

EVENING TIPPLE Want to pick up a bottle of wine for fireside evenings? Pop into JN Wine in Crossgar, whose knowledge of wine is peerless, prices are reasonable and there are free tastings on Saturdays. jnwine.com

ORIENTATION The relatively small area means you’ll never be driving too far but don’t rely on your phone’s GPS to navigate

LUNCH & DINNER

ROOFTOP TERRACE DINING WITH RIVER VIEWS Breakfast * Lunch * Dinner “A vast eating house spread over a former knitting emporium where James Joyce once worked (who knew?) Surrounded by thick-crusted loaves of bread and pillowy-looking cinnamon-apple buns, I ate a messily delicious braised pork shoulder sandwich laced with red cabbage and beetroot slaw, along with a generously portioned butterbean and pumpkin salad.”

“For eating and drinking in Dublin, make sure to check out The Winding Stair, a longtime favorite of Dubliners and travelers. Its cozy dining room is, fittingly, up a winding staircase, and the windows overlook the River Liffey, my favorite among the restaurants I visited.”

Frugal Traveler - The New York Times

Frank Bruni - The New York Times

42 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 (Northside of the Ha'penny bridge) +353 1 828 0835 * thewoollenmills.com

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Leslie Williams - Irish Examiner

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***** “There is something joyous about the food in The Legal Eagle and I defy anybody not to love its quirky mix of the traditional and the modern from panko crumbed salsify to lunchtime roast in a roll.’’

ips

Catherine Cleary - The Irish Times

Lo rem

“The Legal Eagle is quirky and generous, a gastropub that takes the blandness out of the concept of great food in great pubs and refits it for a jaded world.’’

W Ga INN Iri stro ER o sh f Re Pub the st au in Ir Bes ra el t nt an Aw d 2 ar 01 ds 9

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NEWPORT BEACH

BEACH

BALM

The simple pleasures of a lesser-known Southern Californian seaside city attract celebrities and civilians alike, each in search of escapism. WORDS SHAYNA SAPPINGTON PHOTOGRAPHS CHRIS ATWOOD

otter southward of LAX for 70 kilometres and you’ll find Newport Beach, one of Southern California’s most underrated seaside cities. Well known to Cali natives but surprisingly undetected elsewhere, Newport has faded ties to American presidents and Hollywood starlets. But those in the know remain lured by its balmy beaches and year-round mild weather – holiday spot perfection. While LA’s population is almost three million, Newport Beach is sparser, with around 85,000 residents laced along its coastline in the neighbourhoods of Balboa Peninsula (the beach), Balboa Island, Lido Isle, Crystal Cove State Park and “the mainland”: the shopping hub Fashion Island, Upper Newport Bay Nature Reserve – aka “Back Bay” – and suburb Corona del Mar. The most distinguished of Newport Beach’s former residents is arguably John Wayne of Wild-Western fame, who, in the 1960s, moved to a mansion on Bayshore Drive. Sadly, this pad is long gone, so it’s only

NEWPORT BEACH

the site of his former home that is pointed out to me as I sail across the bay while on a Newport Harbour Cruise (funzoneboats. com). “Wayne used to sail his yacht here,” says the captain, gesturing at an impressive crowd of docked catboats gently bobbing on the water. Named The Wild Goose, he explains the vessel was a 136-ft US Navy Minesweeper before its luxurious conversion and where the actor fraternised and fished with colleagues such as Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr. Modern mansions still line the coast, signifying the wealth and high-status of the area’s residents. But there’s more to be doing than gawking at ostentatious homes, such as taking a whale watching “Ultimate Experience” cruise with Newport Coastal Adventure (newportcoastaladventure.com). Its Shearwater vessel, small of size and fast of speed, allows us to approach a pod of dolphins close enough to pet. These cruises cost from $56 and last approximately three hours – don’t forget to pack water and high-factor sunscreen.

Opening pages, serenity beside Newport Pier. This page, top, wild coastline on Back Bay and, above, Jenai Nelson – yoga with a difference with Pirate Coast Paddle Company.

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NEWPORT BEACH

On Balboa Peninsula, tanned locals sunbathe on golden sands, surf foaming swells and stroll the boardwalk

To immerse yourself in wider ecosystems, Crystal Cove State Park (crystalcovestatepark.org) is filled with canyon walking trails and tide pools, while twitchers can enjoy a self-guided kayak or paddleboard tour from a number of rental operators in Back Bay, a 400-hectare ecological reserve of wetlands that is home to 35,000 migratory birds and 200 endangered species, such as the gnatcatcher, Belding’s Savannah sparrow and California black rail. It is also here, off Back Bay Drive, that adventurers can experience another rare animal: a yoga paddle boarder. Yes, that really is doing yoga on a paddle board. Pirate Coast Paddle Company (piratecoastpaddle.com) is one of the few places that teaches the craft and, thankfully,

Opposite, clockwise from top left, telephoto views from Newport Beach Pier; Technicolor on a plate at Balboa Bay Resort; hello deer ... a watering hole near the pier; Sicilian-style pizza at Gina’s.

it is easier than it looks. Barefoot and Lycraclad – and myself a yoga virgin – our group paddles past the drone of distant traffic and into a quiet pocket of the bay, forming a slowly shifting semicircle. Deep breaths, slow movements and core-engaging balances ensue, while listening to the lilt of yoga master Jenai’s coos of sthira (steadiness) and sukha (ease and comfort). “Our goal is to not only form the poses, but to do so with ahimsa,” she explains, “which means ‘do no harm’ and to listen to the body’s subtle way of speaking and making slight adjustments.” This is moving meditation, connecting breath to paddling and focusing on the present with each stroke. It’s a far cry from the entrepreneurs and worker bees slaving away in the nearby office district of Irvine. There are more orthodox pleasures to be found on Newport’s main beach, past 47th Street on Balboa Peninsula. Here, crowds of tanned locals sunbathe on golden sands, surf foaming swells and stroll the boardwalk on foot, bike – or rollerblade, led by Chihuahuas and Yorkies (most places around here are pet-friendly, restaurants included). Give your legs a

NEWPORT BEACH

Above, an eagle-eyed egret stalks the shallows and, above right, angles in America. Next page, left, boatfresh fish at Balboa Beach Resort and, right, as well as rustling up tasty Mexican dishes, Javier’s is a dab hand at craft cocktails.

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break and rent a two-wheel beach cruiser from Balboa Beach & Bicycle Boutique at $10 for two hours or $20 for a full day (balboabeachandbicycles.com). In terms of food in Newport Beach, you’ll be spoiled for choice. Find cheesy satiation with a 14-inch BiggaSlice from Gina’s Pizza (ginaspizza.com), whose founder, Gina Costa, created “the perfect Sicilian pizza recipe” – and, it certainly tastes like it. Or sample some iconic SoCal Mexican cuisine at Sancho’s Tacos (see “Travel Essentials”, page 74) next door. Opposite the beach is family favourite Balboa Fun Zone (ocfunzone.com), an open fairground of rides, arcades, boutique shops, corndog and frozen banana treats and an illuminated Ferris wheel on the bay’s edge. Enter the park via Palm Street’s lot or by the Balboa Island Ferry (balboaislandferry.com), which has been hauling passengers between Balboa Island and Peninsula since 1919. Travel on foot for just $1 or take the car for $2 on the five-minute journey. Back on the mainland, tourists can’t get enough of behemoth shopping centre Fashion Island, which, at more than 84,000 sqm, is worthy of its title. It has more than

150 stores and restaurants, a movie theatre and year-round events. In contrast, Lido Marina Village, on Lido Isle, has more boutique, bohemian finds. On the Pacific Coast Highway, the city’s main coastline road, is the exclusive, members-only Balboa Bay Club (balboabayclub.com), where the likes of Humphrey Bogart, Ronald and Nancy Reagan, Frank Sinatra and Buzz Aldrin were regulars. A comprehensive list of starry guests can be found at the Balboa Bay Resort’s (see “Travel Essentials”, as before) photo gallery next door, which is open to us mere civilians and has a poolside bar, an upscale restaurant and ocean views. While many stars enjoyed the Club for its swish amenities, most came to escape the public eye and socialise with fellow big names on the racquetball court or on the aforementioned Wild Goose. Wayne himself was a Club governor. Even today, stars such as Justin Bieber, Kate Hudson, Michelle Pfeiffer and Britney Spears kick back at Newport Beach. Locals leave the stargazing to tourists and, instead, choose to relish in the escapism that has long since tethered itself to the town’s name.

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NEWPORT BEACH

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS EAT FISHY Once a commercial fish factory, The Cannery is now an upmarket, waterfront restaurant. In keeping with its origins, it serves up fresh seafood, and its weekend brunch – bottomless champagne, cornmeal waffles with brown butter syrup, bay king salmon with tatsoi and mizuno greens and tea vinaigrette – is first-rate. (3010 Lafayette Ave, +1 949 566 0060; cannerynewport.com) FRUITY Follow the line of chilled-out surfers and you’ll find Banzai Bowls, selling acai and pitaya bowls, and nutrient-rich smoothies. Choose your fruit and nut combo and tuck in, bearing in mind that each one is made to order so expect a bit of a wait. Well worth it, though. (114 22nd St, Newport Beach, +1 949 200 9389; banzaibowls.com) FIERY Javier’s serves upscale Mexican fare. Adobe brick and talavera tiles add an authentic atmosphere, while traditional dishes are served with a seafood spin. Specialties include lobster, Mexican white prawns and carne asada (7832 E Coast Hwy, +1 949 494 1239; javiers-cantina.com). For a more budget-friendly bite, Avila’s El Ranchito (+1 949 675 6855; avilaselranchito. com) on Balboa Peninsula does $5 all-youcan-eat Taco Tuesdays, while Sancho’s Tacos (+1 949 723 8226; sanchostacos.com) has killer burritos, plus an ocean view.

STAY BAY BAE Although Balboa Bay Resort is Balboa Bay Club’s direct neighbour, it’s open to all. Anyone can stay at the luxury resort and enjoy its outdoor pool, highend spa and vistas of yachts galore on the shimmering water (the Bay View Room is a dream). Guests can also rent Duffy boats, kayaks and paddleboards before a delicious seafood brunch at its Waterline restaurant. Rooms from $215. (1221 West Coast HWY, Newport Beach, +1 949 645 5000; balboabayresort.com) SELF-CONTAINED Ideal for families, The Resort at Pelican Hill comprises not only hotel rooms but also bungalows and villas that include a full kitchen and laundry appliances, up to four bedrooms

and a private garage. Activities, among them pasta making, cocktail mixing and storytelling, are available in the Social Lounge. Rooms from $395. (22701 Pelican Hill Rd S, Newport Coast, +1 888 507 6427; pelicanhill.com) BEACHY KEEN Newport’s newest boutique hotel, Lido House stands on the former site of City Hall. It has 130 rooms along with a rooftop bar, an afternoon tea parlour, a saltwater pool with cabanas, top-tier restaurant and an ice-creamery. Plus, it’s located on the peninsula, within walking distance of buzzing bars and restaurants. Rooms from $299. (3300 Newport Blvd, Newport Beach, +1 949 524 8500; lidohousehotel.com)

DRINK SPIRITED Come to Bosscat Kitchen & Libations for the cool, rustic atmosphere, stay for the lively liquor (including a seemingly infinite whiskey list) and meatstacked burgers, BBQ pulled pork, 12-hour braised short ribs – a must for carnivores. Its creative cocktails pair perfectly with Southern stock, such as whiskey okra, French onion mac ‘n’ cheese and tasty sugar barrel steak. (4647 MacArthur Blvd, +1 949 333 0917; bosscatkitchen-newport.com) SCENESTER Recently revamped on Gordon Ramsay’s 24 Hours to Hell and Back, SOCIAL Kitchen + Craft Bar has transformed into one of the area’s hottest hangouts. Modern interiors are matched by an inventive weekend brunch menu and

cocktail list; favourites include Coffee’s for Closers – Woodford bourbon, nitro cold brew, salted vanilla. (512 W 19th St, Costa Mesa, +1 949 642 2425; socialrg.com)

SMART TIPS NAVIGATION If travelling to Newport Beach from outside LA, you’ll likely want a car. Download the Waze app to avoid the infamous LA traffic and head down to Avis in Arrivals for your rental. Or, take the LAX-it shuttle on the lower level, kerbside, to the Uber/Lyft pick up point. Rides to Newport Beach from around $60. SAFARI Take a day trip to Santa Catalina Island. Bought by chewing gum giant William Wrigley Jr in 1919, the 192 sq km island – 90 per cent of which was granted to the Catalina Island Conservatory – is accessed via the Catalina Flyer. The ferry meets at Balboa Peninsula daily. Take an off-track tour and see bald eagles or enjoy zip-lining, snorkelling, hiking, exploring. Round-trip tickets from $53. (400 Main St, Newport Beach, +1 310 410 0211; catalinatours.com)

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WELLNESS BREAKS Whether you’re looking to detox, find peace or be pampered, Rosaleen McMeel has the best spots for a healthy escape.

1 SHA WELLNESS CLINIC SPAIN A haven for burnt-out CEOs and high-profile executives, SHA is where excellence and hospitality come together in perfect harmony. Located between the Sierra Helada Natural Park and the Bay of Altea in Valencia, this clinic is one of Europe’s leading medical resorts. A luxury retreat, its seven-night Stress Management Programme is tailored to reduce stress and identify its sources, thereby reducing adverse symptoms such as fatigue, insomnia, anxiety and irritability. Cost of the programme starts at €3,765 based on one person. Room only rates start from €350 for a Deluxe Suite. shawellnessclinic.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Alicante four times per week from March.

WELLNESS BREAKS

2 BUCHINGER WILHELMI GERMANY Situated in the pretty, cobble-stoned market town of Überlingen, an hour from Zürich, Buchinger specialises in therapeutic fasting and draws discerning guests from all over the world. Clients range from patients recovering from serious illnesses to jetsetting celebrities, as well as those simply looking to press reset on their health. Panoramic views overlooking the shores of Lake Constance and a vast array of treatments – everything from autogenic training to hayflower massages – more than make up for the lack of food. A ten-night stay starts from €2,750 per person. buchinger-wilhelmi.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Zürich up to 11 times per week.

3 THE RANCH USA The Ranch has built up an impressive reputation as the go-to refuge of Hollywood’s great and good in need of R and R. But that doesn’t mean this is a flash-in-the-pan pampered spa break. The Ranch 4.0 at Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village offers a four-day retreat comprising the most exquisite expensive deprivation. Think 5.30am wake-up calls, 22-kilometre endurance hikes, daily circuit training and yoga, sustained on 1,400 calories of organic vegan food a day. The results speak for themselves, apparently – exercise-induced euphoria, seismic mental shifts toward a healthier lifestyle, and the ultimate litmus test? Return guests. The Ranch 4.0 costs $4,200. theranchmalibu.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to LA four times per week.

4 THE MERRION SPA & HEALTH CLUB IRELAND Amid the bustle of our capital city lies a sanctuary of peace in the heart of Georgian Dublin. The Merrion Spa and Health Club underwent an extensive renovation last year, making it a superb choice for anyone seeking their own luxurious restoration. You can choose from signature skincare treatments from ESPA or opt for bespoke facials from French skincare brand Biologique Recherche, a favourite among the celebrity and fashion set. The Club houses physiotherapy services and personal training too. merrionhotel.com

WELLNESS BREAKS

5 MANDARIN ORIENTAL USA Miami might not be a destination that comes to mind when seeking much-needed downtime but the Mandarin Oriental has curated the perfect Power Off in Paradise package to help guests put down their devices. A wellness basket awaits your arrival, filled with mindful activities such as a puzzle, board game and a zen-inducing Buddha Board. You’ll also enjoy private (or family) yoga practice and a “singing bowl” session on the beach with soothing views of the bay. Not to mention a 120-minute treatment at the hotel’s five-star spa, which focuses on easing stresses and strains resulting from the use of digital devices. The Power Off in Paradise package starts at $1,669 per night and requires a two-night minimum stay. mandarinoriental.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Miami up to four times per week.

6 THE LANESBOROUGH CLUB & SPA UK Take one of London’s most iconic hotels and combine it with the wellness philosophy of Bodhimaya and you’ve got the makings of a truly transformative experience. The Lanesborough’s newest spa residency sees award-winning wellness expert Cornelius O’Shaughnessy offer his highly effective approach to the mind, which focuses on helping people explore and resolve personal issues, find clarity, manage stress and increase confidence. Ideal for highflying executives who need a quick fix. Bodhimaya’s Stress & Burnout Retreats from £1,745 per person, including overnight stay. Day retreats start from £750 per person. lanesboroughclubandspa.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to London multiple times daily.

WELLNESS BREAKS

7 SOUL & SURF PORTUGAL Having gained a devoted following for its laid-back yoga and surf holidays in Kerala and Sri Lanka, Soul & Surf found its permanent European base in Portugal last April. Set in a rustic Iberian farmhouse, a 40-minute drive from Faro, this retreat will not just improve your core and mobility but, as the name suggests, soothe your soul too. The Weekend Warrior package includes three nights’ accommodation, food, surf coaching and yoga, from €430 per person full-board, based on two sharing, including surf tuition, yoga and guided meditation. soulandsurf.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Faro up to three times per week and from Cork thrice weekly from late March.

8 GURNEY’S MONTAUK USA Gurney’s in New York is a favourite among high-profile folk such as Lady Gaga and John Hamm due to its prime location and direct access to a 610-metre private beach. Although a hotspot in summer, the resort offers a welcome reprieve from the concrete jungle all year round, their Winter Hygge Getaway [hyg-ge. n. a quality of cosiness and comfortable conviviality] package drawing discerning guests seeking active hibernation. There are also regular wellness pop-ups and retreats from some of the starriest names in fitness, not to mention the only indoor, ocean-fed seawater spa in the United States. gurneysresorts.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK and Newark, New Jersey, daily.

9 MONART DAY SPA UK Anyone who has visited Co Wexford’s Monart Spa will know the only negative associated with the grand dame of Irish spas is availability. Fortunately, there is another option now as England’s Dorset has become home to a Monart day spa with the exact same level of luxury and escape. The introductory Monart Moments half-day package, at £150, is perfect for weary travellers looking for a luxurious recharge as it includes unrestricted access to the impressive thermal suite, hydrotherapy pool and bright relaxation suites, plus a 55-minute spa treatment and light lunch. Don’t miss the unique shower experiences, which will see you go from Highland mist to Bermuda rain in the blink of an eye. Thankfully, they left out the Irish downpour. monartspa.co.uk Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bristol up to 19 times per week.

London City Island

wina home in london Win A Home In London City Island worth £695,000 (€815,000) The winner of the “Win a Home in London” competition will receive the keys to number 502 Hercules House, 18 Botanic Square, London City Island E14 0LH. This is a breath-taking two-bedroom apartment, by Ballymore, and can be found in the most idyllic location London City has to offer. Dubbed a ‘mini-Manhattan,’ London City Island is situated a stone’s throw from Canary Wharf. It is home to some of the UK’s most important cultural institutions, including English National Ballet, London Film School and several leading art galleries. The property is valued at £695,000 (€815,000).

Roscommon is the hometown of Seán Mulryan, Group Chief Executive and Chairman of Ballymore, and Seán has long been a supporter of Roscommon GAA. Commenting on the Win a Home in London competition, Seán said “I am very pleased to be able to support the competition which will raise vital money for the redevelopment of Dr Hyde Park and the development of the Dermot Earley Centre of Excellence in Roscommon. I wish all of the participants the best of luck.” See last year’s winner here www.winahomeinlondon.com

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Destination museums can be wonderful – but for the snaking queues and smartphone screens obscuring masterpieces. Leave London’s wellbeaten paths behind to delight in its more offbeat cultural cousins.

WORDS LYNN ENRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS CONOR O’LEARY

he biggest blockbuster exhibitions at the biggest galleries in the biggest cities in the world are often wonderful. Of course they are; that’s why they draw the biggest crowds. Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs was a triumph, for example – beautiful and enlightening, offering a rare chance to see such an array of the artist’s work. It was so good I saw it twice, once in London and once in New York. Both times I was moved and engaged. But I was also squished, very squished. It’s a problem that’s getting worse, not better, at London museums and galleries, especially at the weekends as hordes of tourists join the crowds of locals, with people jostling for a glimpse of William Blake’s Pity or attempting to take a selfie in front of Dora Maar’s Untitled (Hand-Shell). It’s difficult to appreciate fully the work on show when the vibe is a cross between

LONDON

mobbed commuter train and packed-tothe-rafters pop concert. Luckily, in a big city such as London, there are alternatives: places where you can take in art and ideas in relative peace. Nobody is saying that you should eschew the big galleries completely but be aware that there are treasures to be witnessed and lessons to be learned in smaller venues, too. Take, for instance, The Foundling Museum (foundlingmuseum.org.uk). Located in London’s Bloomsbury, it presents the story of The Foundling Hospital, the UK’s first children’s charity and first public art gallery. When the hospital opened in 1741, childhood mortality rates were extremely high: almost 75 per cent of children born in London died before they were five. There was a huge gin problem in the city and abandoned babies, called foundlings,

Opening pages, left, David Carter, interior designer and owner of 40 Winks, a micro boutique hotel in hip East London and, right, the Reading Room at the Wellcome Collection. This page, clockwise from top left, Sigmund Freud’s study; the Grant Museum’s Micrarium, where you can explore some 20,000 microscopic slides; dapper details at 40 Winks.

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At the Wellcome Collection, you’ll find curios including Florence Nightingale’s moccasins and Charles Darwin’s walking stick were commonplace. Thomas Coram created the hospital to care for the abandoned, unwanted children; it was less a hospital, more an orphanage. British artists, led by William Hogarth, donated work to the hospital and so it became a place where the public could see art, the first establishment of its kind in the UK. Today, more than 250 years on, you can see Hogarth’s portrait of Thomas Coram in the picture gallery of the museum. Stroll through Bloomsbury, passing by Russell Square, to get to the Grant Museum of Zoology (ucl.ac.uk), a natural history museum that is part of University College London. Housing 68,000 zoological specimens, from camel skulls and rodent skeletons to stuffed monkeys and pickled bats, it provides a fascinating overview of the animal kingdom. It’s creepy,

fun and educational, as interesting for kids as it is for adults, with a huge table in the centre where children can create pictures and art based on what they’ve just witnessed. A few streets away on Euston Road, you’ll find the Wellcome Collection (wellcomecollection.org). It’s much bigger and busier than either the Grant Museum or The Foundling but just as fascinating, housing artefacts and hosting exhibitions that challenge the way we think and feel about health, illness and death. At the permanent Medicine Man exhibition, you’ll find curios – including Florence Nightingale’s moccasins and Charles Darwin’s walking stick – that were amassed by Sir Henry Wellcome, a Victorian pharmacist and philanthropist. Meanwhile, the Being Human exhibition

(also permanent) features 50 pieces of modern art that interrogate and play with notions about the body, medicine and mental health. For a truly uncanny experience, head towards Spitalfields, where – close to the glinting Gherkin and Heron Tower – the Dennis Severs’ House (dennissevershouse. co.uk), a bizarre throwback to simpler but stranger times, is situated. Severs was an Anglophile who left California to come to London and indulge his interest in British history. In 1979, he bought a four-storey 18th-century house and created what he called a “living painting”. Filled with curiosities – and featuring half-eaten food and unmade beds, soundscapes and candlelight – it became home to a Huguenot family dreamed up by Severs, spanning several generations between 1724 and 1914. Severs died of cancer aged only 51 in 1999 but today the house is run by a friend and curator. The very best London weekends involve a walk on Hampstead Heath, which covers 320 hectares and provides striking views of the city. But it isn’t all muddy

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Previous pages, clockwise from top left, the Freud Museum’s Jamie Ruers; a Chinese fireplace at the grand Kenwood House; Yinka Shonibare’s Refugee Astronaut at the Wellcome Collection; going gaga at 40 Winks and, opposite, pastel ceilings at Kenwood. This page, above, The Flower Gatherers by François Boucher (1703–1770) at Kenwood, right, whose tranquil landscaped gardens sit on the edge of Hampstead Heath. Next page, Dusty Knuckle savouries.

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boots and dips in the ponds; there’s also Kenwood House (english-heritage.org. uk), a Neoclassical pile that sits at the northern edge of the heath. The property itself is a stately home of epic proportions and it has an impressive collection of art, amassed by a former owner, Edward Cecil Guinness. The house and the art – including masterpieces from Rembrandt and Vermeer – were bequeathed to the nation in 1927. South of Hampstead Heath, amid the mansions of the super-rich, you’ll find the Freud Museum (freud.org.uk), at 20 Maresfield Gardens. It is the last address of the pioneering psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud. He died there, aged 83 in 1939, having fled his home in Nazi-occupied Vienna. He was able to bring his collection of antiques and books, and his children recreated his study and consulting room

for him after they arrived in London. Today, standing in that study, looking at his possessions – chief among them the couch on which Freud’s patients lay – is a truly poignant experience. Meanwhile, temporary exhibitions held upstairs contextualise the work of Freud, providing insight into his legacy. These exhibitions won’t be seen by hundreds of thousands, like the big blockbuster exhibitions at the big galleries, but they are worthwhile and moving nonetheless. So, avoid the crowds and embrace the sublime at London’s more under-the-radar museums.

LONDON

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY

Rooms from £189. (14-15 Langham Place, +44 20 7580 0111; treehousehotels.com)

DAPPER Can you call a hotel a hotel if it has only two guest rooms, one a single, the other a double? Would it be more accurate to call it a B&B? Well, no, not if it’s as gloriously stylish as 40 Winks in East London, the “micro boutique hotel” run by David Carter, a celebrated interior designer. Chic, special and a perfect base for exploring East London. Rooms from £139. (109 Mile End Road, Stepney Green, +44 20 7790 0259; 40winks.org)

SALOON Staying in one of the classic and comfortable rooms above the William IV, a north-west London pub, allows you to feel like a local. Stroll around the neighbourhood – go to Chamberlayne Road for restaurants and cafés – or wander south to Holland Park and Notting Hill. Hop on the Tube to get into town. Rooms from £85. (786 Harrow Road, +44 20 8969 5955; williamiv.london)

CHEERY Located on Langham Place, Treehouse Hotel London is beside the BBC, a stone’s throw from the shops of Oxford Street and only a short stroll to Regent’s Park. It’s a classic London location but the design of this new hotel is innovative and fun rather than stuffy or traditional. There are cosy cushions and quirky details, all contributing to a comforting sense of ease and innovation.

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EAT SNACKETTE With roughly 250 outlets of Pret a Manger in London, it’s incredibly easy to find a coffee and sandwich in the city. But the coffee and sandwich you find at The Dusty Knuckle – a bakery and baking school in Dalston, East London – is likely to be the best coffee and sandwich you’ve ever had. The cakes and pastries are also excellent. (Abbot Street, Dalston, +44 20 3903 7598; thedustyknuckle.com) UNPRETENTIOUS There’s nothing particularly snazzy about Ciao Bella in Bloomsbury, but that’s exactly why it’s so special. This Italian restaurant is genuinely fun, with excellent food. You won’t find it on any hot-new-openings lists, as it’s been

there for years and it’s not part of a chain with a big marketing budget. Instead it’s an atmospheric independent place, something that feels increasingly unique in 2020 London. (86-90 Lamb’s Conduit St, +44 20 7242 4119; ciaobellarestaurant.co.uk) RETRO Whether you’re a tourist or a local, you’ll invariably end up on Leicester Square at some point. And when you get there, standing amid the gargantuan cinemas and fast-food outlets, you’ll be grateful to find a 1970s throwback wine bar called the Cork & Bottle, down a flight of steep stairs. There’s good wine, great cheese and a true sense of authenticity. (44-46 Cranbourn Street, +44 20 7734 7807; thecorkandbottle.co.uk)

SMART TIPS NAVIGATION If you don’t have it already, download the Citymapper app as soon as you get to London; it makes navigating the city, especially the less obvious parts, that much easier. You can see how long any journey will take you: on foot, by public transport, using a black cab or taxi-hailing service. You can also compare costs and access Tube maps.

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NEW YORK CITY

LIGHT FANTASTIC On a series of trips to New York City, Dublin photographer Matthew Thompson found meteorological events to be a pathetic fallacy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and great beauty in the darkness.

NEW YORK CITY

“N

ew York is an ugly city, a dirty city. Its climate is a scandal, its politics are used to frighten children, its traffic is madness, its competition is murderous. But there is one thing about it – once you have lived in New York and it has become your home, no place else is good enough.” – John Steinbeck. My photographic project, Climate, documents life on the streets of New York City, from trips made between 2016-19. At a time of perceptible change, both social and environmental, these images are a lament to a city and the resilience of its people. Meteorological events punctuate daily life and dominate headlines, and a total solar eclipse and Hurricane Harvey seemed to prophesy political tempests brewing. At a time when we have the technical ability to be perpetually connected, we tenuously try to renegotiate our relationship with our environment and with each other. The project was influenced by a book published in 1969 by the Magnum Photo Agency called America in Crisis, featuring photographers such as Eve Arnold, Burt Glinn, Philip Jones Griffiths and edited by Charles Harbutt and Lee Jones. I was inspired by the ethos of their kaleidoscopic image curation; all life exists simultaneously, kindness and adversity side by side. Undogmatic and mature, complexities accepted, it feels true to me. The city seems to embrace these very paradoxes and, to me, that’s what makes it so worthy of celebration.

Previous pages, left, specs appeal in The Hamptons, for the total solar eclipse and, right, Union Square. Opposite and above, the inimitable Times Square.

NEW YORK CITY

Opposite page, portraits from a metropolis, clockwise from top left, at the Empire State Building; at the World Trade Center; Little Italy; on 5th Avenue, for the Pride Parade. Above, on point views from the Empire State Building.

NEW YORK CITY

Bring me sunshine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; morning seeps into Sullivan Street in the Village in Lower Manhattan.

A German/Irish school with a European culture and spirit for pupils aged 4-18

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NEW YORK CITY

Top, taking a walk on the wild side and, above, ecosystems for the digital generation at the Natural History Museum.

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GLOBAL GREENING Thomas Breathnach shares his top five St Patrick’s Day celebrations around the world.

1 CHICAGO “We dye the river green!” As Bonnie Greer, Ireland’s Brexit defender, reminded us so iconically, Chicago takes St

Patrick’s Day celebrations to the next level. Thanks to 18 kilos of eco-friendly food colouring (aka leprechaun dust), the Chicago River magically ripples into an emerald channel on March 14 – try boarding a Wendella riverboat for the best vantage. You’ll also find annual parades along the Loop and South Side, while Charm’d pop-up bar in Wrigleyville is Chicago’s Instagram-hit playground.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Chicago up to twice daily.

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GLOBAL GREENING

2 BOSTON Home to America’s largest Irish community and led by a mayor who even speaks a cúpla focail, Boston’s Celtic roots run pretty deep. The country’s oldest St Patrick’s Day gathering sees one million revellers lining out in the trendy Southie ‘hood, with parade floats featuring groups from New England bag-pipers to OutVets, an LGBT ex-military group. Come evening, The Burren bar in Somerville and Matt Murphy’s gastropub in Brookline woo locals, while the Boston Irish Film Festival (irishfilmfestival.com) also coincides with the March festivities. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston twice daily and from Shannon daily.

3 SEATTLE With its dewy, coastal setting along the Pacific

Northwest, there are few better climes in which to wet the shamrock than the Emerald City. A week-long Irish festival kicks off every March at South Lake Union with the annual Landing of St Patrick ceremony (think Jack Sparrow meets Groundhog Day). Downtown’s Westlake Park takes centre stage for Seattle’s annual parade while elsewhere in the city, events range from a costume strong 5k dash to a soda bread bake-off at TS McHugh’s pub. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Seattle three times per week.

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4 MUNICH Forget Oktoberfest. Come springtime, Munich paints the town grün with Europe’s largest St Patrick’s festival beyond the shores of the UK and Ireland. What started with a tiny Irish clique in 1996, this year’s parade will see 1,500 participants running the gambit of traditional culture and Celtic kitsch, all culminating with a stage spectacle on Odeonsplatz. Expect a flotilla of Irish music and live dance performances, with Johnny Logan and his like as grand marshals. Munich simply doesn’t do ersatz. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Munich daily and from Cork once per week.

5 GLASGOW As arguably Ireland’s closest cultural neighbour, Scotland feels like an overseas cousin on St Patrick’s Day, with Glasgow staging perhaps the greatest homage to Irish heritage. The city hosts a pot-luck of events to get your cultural cosy on, from céilís, concerts and pubs quizzes to its pop-up Gaeltacht Glaschú. Six Nations season means added sport to the festivities and amid the city’s stellar crop of Irish pubs, consider Òran Mór, Jinty McGinty’s and Waxy O’Connors worth a toast. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Glasgow up to four times daily and from Cork four times per week.

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BUSINESS

ZÜRICH

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BOOMTOWN RAZZ

Zürich is young, smart, affluent and living the good life, says Elizabeth Heath.

ürich may not be the capital of Switzerland – that honour goes to Bern – but it sure carries itself like a boss. Affluence, beauty, brains and pedigree, Switzerland’s largest city seems to have everything going for it. It’s achingly pretty, with a charming Old Town divided by the Limmat River and defined by 14th-century guildhouses, cathedrals and market squares. It’s a smarty-pants, with a university where Einstein earned his PhD and 23 Nobel laureates have studied or taught. It’s at turns haughty and anarchistic – the regal Zürich Opera House, home of the city’s opera, ballet and orchestra, is down the street from Cabaret Voltaire, the birthplace of Dada, the avant-garde artistic movement of the early 20th-century. Above all, Zürich is unapologetically expensive. It hovers near the top of any list of costliest cities in the world in which to live – rent alone for a one-bedroom apartment in the city centre averages around

€1,800 (CHF 2,000). And because of Switzerland’s rigid requirements for home mortgages, only about 30 per cent of Swiss own their own homes, compared with median home ownership rates of around 70 per cent in the rest of Europe. Still, there are few signs of struggle in this spotlessly clean (like all Swiss cities) metropolis, where a third of all jobs are in the tightly run, ultra-discreet international banking sector. Insurance, technology, tourism and light industry are also major job markets here. Zürich’s residents are young, educated, multicultural and upwardly mobile, and they like to spend their money in the city’s lively cafés, bars and restaurants, and in its dizzying number of high-end retail stores. Spend some time in Zürich and you’ll witness a city that functions with the precision and quality of a Swiss watch, and that plays with the slightly restrained decadence of a box of fancy Swiss chocolates.

GET SMART IN TRANSIT There are two smart ways to get around Zürich and they’re both electric. A comprehensive network of trams, including some vintage models from the 1970s, covers nearly all the city. For something a little more exciting, a half-dozen or so companies rent electric scooters, with apps that function similar to bike-share programmes elsewhere. Simply search the app of your choice for an available scooter – you’ll find them parked on nearly every street corner – grab it and go.

GO WEST In a former industrial area quite literally on the other side of the tracks, Zürich-West is the city’s newest hotspot, for living, dining, working, clubbing and art-making. Once working-class and polluted from surrounding heavyindustry factories, the area is now a model of urban redevelopment and repurposing. Come for the shopping centre in a former railway viaduct, a food-lovers market hall, second-hand shops and a slightly gritty vibe (for Zürich, at least).

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EAT

SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to Zürich 11 times per week.

TRADITION When in Zürich, make like a Züricher and dip into a pot of Swiss fondue. There are many places in the city to try this filling meal, but Le Dezaley is among the oldest and most atmospheric, in an Old Town building dating to the 1200s. Service can be a bit on the surly side, but you won’t notice once that giant pot of melted cheese is placed before you. (Römergasse 7+9, +41 44 251 6129; le-dezaley.ch)

INNOVATION If you’ve had your fill of fondue, sausage and rösti (Swiss-style pan-fried potatoes), then sample the small plates, grilled steaks, and speciality cocktails at Lotti, left, a buzzy modern eatery not far from Zürich Hauptbahnhof, the main train station. From an industrial-chic, retro-y interior, tables spill out onto a patio overlooking a leafy square. (Werdmühleplatz 3, +41 43 399 0101; lotti-lokal.ch)

CIVILIZED For a coffee or cuppa with a heady dose of Old Europe, snuggle up to a cosy table at Conditorei Schober, a salon-style café and confectionery running since the 1800s, in a building dating back to the 13th century. It’s storybook pretty, and elegantly packaged bonbons, coffees and teas from here make lovely gifts. (Napfgasse 4, +44 251 5150; cafe1842.ch)

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STAY

STEPHAN LEMKE

NEST With its posh location on the banks of the Limmat, Storchen – that’s stork in German – has been the nest of choice for fine-feathered guests for the last 650 years. This five-star has all the comforts, including a waterfront bar with heaters and fur blankets, and a Michelinstarred restaurant. Try to snag a room or suite with a river view. Rooms from CHF 420. (Weinplatz 2, +41 44 227 2727; storchen.ch)

ON TREND The coolness factor at 25Hours Hotel Langstrasse is palpable and the millennial vibe is strong. Enjoy a moody, sexy room with a glass-walled shower, a loaner Polaroid camera for your trampings through Zürich’s former red-light district and a rooftop sauna with city views. The newish Europaallee zone is just outside the door. Rooms from CHF 170. (Langstrasse 150, +41 44 576 5000; 25hours-hotels.com)

LOCATION To stroll through the pedestrian-only, cobbled streets of the city’s Old Town is to experience the thoroughfares of Zürich of the Middle Ages. To cross the threshold of Marktgasse Hotel is to join the 21st-century once again, with modern, snug, but space-efficient rooms in an eco-friendly environment. Rooms from CHF 224. (Marktgasse 17, +41 44 266 1010; marktgassehotel.ch)

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client base of urban households, for which grocery delivery is an attractive option. Income levels are high here and there’s good business infrastructure. We also found a great situation on the sourcing side – in Switzerland there are still lots of small producers and farms in every region.

BUSINESS INSIDER

FOUNDING FOODIE Roman Hartmann is the CEO and co-founder of Farmy, a Zürich-based online shopping site launched in 2014 that delivers regional foods directly from independent farmers and small producers in Switzerland and elsewhere in Europe. farmy.ch

How is Farmy contributing to the quality of life in Zürich? Part of our mission is to reconnect local farms and producers with consumers from the same region. We provide a portal for small farms and producers to get access to online customers and build up a revenue pillar. Sometimes it’s essential to their survival – some of our partners do 30-40 per cent of their sales through Farmy. A bakery might not be able to sell fresh bread online and make a profit. But if we collect and deliver their products along with larger customer orders, then it starts to make financial

sense. For customers, we offer quality, freshness and a short supply chain. The lead time from order to delivery is 12-15 hours at the most, and they always know who is behind the products. Why did you choose to base Farmy in Zürich? Farmy’s co-founder and I did an analysis of different European cities. The Swiss spend more money per capita on organic products than anywhere else in Europe and they’re willing to pay more for quality. Zürich is the biggest metropolitan area in Switzerland, so there’s a strong

What’s it like to be an entrepreneur here? There are many advantages – the city is business friendly and has a young, forwardthinking population. But it’s also a quite expensive place to do business, as salaries are high. We found that the ecosystem for venture capital is not that well-developed yet, so we had to look more to individual investors than institutional ones. And because there’s almost no unemployment in the city, the hiring market is supercompetitive and it can be tough to find the right people. Otherwise it’s quite cool! What’s your favourite Zürich moment? In the first year when I moved here, on a normal work day, pedalling into work along Lake Zürich, I decided to just stop and jump in the lake. I had a beautiful view of the city and the mountains, and I realised, “yeah, this is a really high quality of life”. Now, I stop and swim or stand-up paddleboard all the time in the summer, either before or after work.

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I LOVE VISITIN G …

HELEN SLOAN

A DAY IN THE LIFE An early rise from bed sets Pamela Smyth up for the busy day ahead. The multi-talented hair and makeup designer is a double Emmy awardwinner for her work on Game of Thrones and The Long Night, and also leads a training school in Northern Ireland, The Makeup Dept.

5am I have four cats and one of them, Muffin, a tiny tabby, waits for me at the bedroom door every morning, so I have to pick her up and scoop her into my dressing gown for a snuggle while I make a quick coffee. If we have a big prosthetic in, we could be starting at 3.30am but the average day starts around 6am. Depending on the call time it can be anything from 15 minutes to an hour’s drive to the unit base so a comfortable, reliable car is a must. I love the same rap music my boys (Lex, 16 and Myles, 14) listen to when they’re in the car and I like to put it in “Sport” mode so I don’t feel like a mum! 5.45am I arrive at the truck and set up. I’ll cast my eye over the call sheet and check with my team that they have everything they need and then get started. We’ll work through the cast who are needed on set for a director’s rehearsal then we’ll have breakfast and go to set. A quick chat with the director and any final tweaks before the first assistant director shouts “Rolling”. Depending who is on set that day, I’ll stay until everything is running smoothly then pop back to the truck to get stuck into paperwork, tests or continuity haircuts. 11am A cast member will arrive for a hair and makeup test and we’ll go through the research images and ideas. Tea and coffee are constantly being made. 1pm If it’s a production that stops for a lunch break – we’ll down tools and have a proper sit-down meal, which is always a treat.

BILBAO It feels like Spain but looks as if it belongs further north. For architecture and culture, the Guggenheim (guggenheim.org) is a must. Also explore the north coast at Zumaia and San Sebastián and walk the 241 steps at San Juan de Gaztelugatxe – the view is breathtaking.

1.30pm The base runner will start bringing cast in for post-lunch checks. The hair and makeup truck is always a place of calm and people tend to be drawn in and want to stay for the positive vibes but there’s always work to be done. 3pm Final plans for the next day’s shooting are confirmed and, if we’re moving location, we start packing down and preparing. There may be a marquee to be set up in a field to do 500 extras the next day so everything needs to be ready for an early call the following morning – we really are like the circus. 6pm Wrap and then everyone has their hair taken down and makeup thoroughly removed. We really look after our actors’ skin, as it’s our canvas to work on every day. I’m a trained facialist and instil a thorough skincare routine ethos in my team so everyone gets a hot towel cleanse, which is a great way to decompress after an intense day’s filming. 7.30pm Truck tidied and set up for the following day. The hair and makeup artists who are hired for the next day are contacted with their call times for the morning. 8.15pm Arrive home for dinner with my husband and the kids. Having a husband in the same industry means he is understanding of my early starts and late returns. Back to being mum for a few hours before bed, ready to get the circus up and running for another day.

LA Home of the Emmys and my excuse to fly business class, which usually means just my husband and I. Two years ago we brought the kids, hired a Hummer and took them to lots of cool skate parks. Lunch at SunCafé Organic (suncafe.com) is a taste sensation and no complaints from the kids.

DUBROVNIK & SPLIT I have such fantastic memories of filming Game of Thrones here – we stayed in the stunning Le Méridien Lav (marriott.com) hotel in Split. The seafood in Restaurant Leonis, overlooking the marina, is a real treat.

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NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK

PARIS Tall ceilings, parquet flooring, stylish monochrome rugs, chartreuse-hued curtains, Sisley spa … this magnificent pied à terre is the first JK property to open outside Italy and has an haute residential air — it was once a consulate building — which is reflected in the pricing. Its Rive Gauche location, a baguette’s throw from the Seine, is also priceless. Rooms from €800. jkplace.paris

A SAFE BET

The new Washington Riggs DC hotel in a former bank is a welcome pop of whimsy, finds Nancy Rockett. Ryan Chetiyawardana – is sure to be the location of many a business deal. Residents can take their pick from 181 characterful rooms and suites, where painterly headboards clash wonderfully with busy walls, and minibars resemble steel safes. Oak wood floors and terracotta accents create warmth in a city known for its frigid ambition, while in bathrooms, navy and white pinstripes draw the eye down to Italian Carrera marble and sexy toiletries by Brooklyn tastemakers DS & Durga. Riggs DC is the third self-owned property by the independent Lore Group, which does expert work at London’s Sea Containers and Amsterdam’s The Pulitzer. While there’s an unmistakable whiff of 1930s and mid-century Modernism design across all three hotels, Lore’s success, so far, is by eschewing a signature “look” and offering a bespoke design approach to each site. And for this former bank, it’s a balance transfer that works superbly.

Rooms from $170. (900 F St NW, +1 202 638 1800; riggsdc.com)

PHILADELPHIA The Pod hotel group is expert in ergonomics and Pod Philly is Philadelphia’s first-micro hotel, acing big ideas in small spaces (although they also have spacious options, too). Located in the desirable Rittenhouse Square neighbourhood, this 234-room property was cleverly designed by the New York firm Stonehill Taylor, of TWA Hotel, Refinery and Nomad Las Vegas fame. Rooms from $159. thepodhotel.com

DESIGN HOTELS

ntil recently, hotels in Washington DC were more classic than cool, with big name multinational brands maintaining their loyal demographic of roving delegates reassured by the familiarity of trouser presses and coffee pods. And then The LINE and Eaton DC came along, heralding a new crop of youngbloods challenging the status quo of functional over funky, mediocrity over mindfulness. Washington Riggs DC is the city’s newest beacon and, like The LINE – a converted church – it also has a storied past, as the former Riggs National Bank circa 1891, whose grand, Corinthian façade makes for a handsome entrance on the corner of 9th and F Street in the Penn Quarter. In the lobby, an intricately coffered ceiling crowns a sleek, Art Decostyle set-piece of marble, brass, glass and wood, above, which segues into the light and bright Café Riggs, reminiscent of an historic European brasserie. Meeting rooms and event spaces include a 140-square-metre roof terrace, while the subterranean Silver Lyan – spearheaded by London’s bar master

ROME Most new hotels pride themselves on in-room artwork. Not so at Chapter Roma, which pointedly dropped daubings altogether, for a truly restful appeal with a pared back colour scheme. That’s not to say it’s lacking in stimuli, however; elsewhere in the 42-room bolthole are street art murals, herringbone floors and dramatic lighting. Rooms from €129. designhotels.com

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6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT

For more than 15 years, Philadelphia’s Laurinda Rainey has used her expertise in marketing and customer relationship management to deliver growth at leading firms. Currently, she is the general manager at Chase Card Services in Wilmington, Delaware, overseeing a diverse portfolio, including the Aer Lingus Visa Signature card.

1 GIVE EVERYONE FLOWERS WHILE THEY ARE HERE This was a phrase my mother always said to me, so that I would remember to show gratitude and appreciation to people in the moment. Often we wait for people to leave – or, unfortunately, after they have passed – to share with the world how much we value their contributions. Instead of waiting to give compliments, I try to appreciate others in the moment with words, cards, candy and sometimes flowers. 2 KEEP IT SIMPLE One of the biggest mistakes people make when pitching innovative ideas is using complex words and imagery to try to “sound” intelligent. However, simplicity is engaging – not complexity. Where complex concepts can overwhelm and intimidate others, simple concepts can amaze listeners and cause them to wonder “why didn’t I think of that?” When ideas are simple, implementation and adoption are also easy to secure so that they can scale and grow quickly.

3 DON’T BE A NAKED EMPEROR The story of The Emperor’s New Clothes by Hans Christian Andersen has always held great business value for me. In it is a king who hires two weavers to revamp his wardrobe, who inform him they are going to use special invisible thread that’s only visible to people who are smart. The weavers end up creating an imaginary wardrobe, but no one dares accuse the king of being too incompetent, ignorant or stupid not to see the “beautiful clothing” so they don’t tell him he’s naked. This has taught me to communicate with humility, so that no one ever fears sharing their perspective with me. 4 FAILURE IS KEY TO INNOVATION Building a culture that embraces trial and error along with frequent failing ensures that people are comfortable thinking outside the box and stretching the boundaries of dayto-day constraints. If we flawlessly execute everything 100 per cent of the time it means that we are never trying anything new and aren’t learning as an organisation. Finding

a balance between delivering consistent results while driving innovation is the biggest challenge that every leader faces. 5 FIND THE RIGHT FIT Every individual has a certain combination of skills, talents and interests. When individual talents, organisational culture and industry needs align, there is a perfect harmony where teams enjoy their work and make significant contributions. There are multiple ways to find this perfect harmony via tests, surveys and other HR tools. Once the insights are gained, it takes effort to maintain awareness so that the team can deliver optimal impact and support individual growth. 6 ALWAYS OPERATE WITH INTEGRITY My father owned a small business and he taught me the power of keeping my word. Being trustworthy is the foundation of all relationships. In the world of business, trust is the common currency that opens doors for network expansion, which leads to business opportunities and growth.

LAURINDA’S SMART CITY NEW YORK DESTINATION I consider New York City my second home. Every visit feels like I’m discovering something new. There is so much history, amazing cuisine from Tao to Peruvian, to great theatrical experiences from Hamilton to Wicked, and I could go on and on ...

EAT Tao Downtown is near one of my favourite NYC locations: the entrance to Highline Park. It also has great eye candy and music, before you even taste the food – from sushi to dumplings to an array of artistically spiced seafood and meats, you can’t go wrong. taodowntown.com

STAY One of my favourites is Kimpton Hotel Eventi in Chelsea. The lobby has an amazing bar and restaurant with the perfect nook that seats about ten of your closest friends as you sip drinks or share appetisers in comfy but stately couches. hoteleventi.com

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Drama

149 mins

The Goldfinch A young teenager finds his place in life after his mother’s untimely death. Stars Oakes Fegley, Ansel Elgort, Nicole Kidman EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Thriller

PG13

122 mins

Ad Astra

Biopic

PG13

117 mins

Blinded by the Light

Adventure

PG13

118 mins

Charlie’s Angels

An Army Corps engineer searches across the galaxy for his father. Stars Brad Pitt, Kimmy Shields, Tommy Lee Jones

A joyful story of courage, love and family – and Bruce Springsteen. Stars Viveik Kalra, Kulvinder Ghir, Meera Ganatra

Charlie's Angels are called into action to protect us all. Stars Kristen Stewart, Naomi Scott, Ella Balinska

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Action

PG13

134 mins

Action

PG13

117 mins

Fast & Furious Presents: Hobbs & Shaw

Gemini Man

Luke Hobbs and Deckard Shaw form an unlikely alliance. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Jason Statham

Assassin Henry Brogan is suddenly targeted by a young operative. Stars Will Smith, Mary Elizabeth Winstead, Clive Owen

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

INFLIGHT

Comedy

PG13

108 mins

Jojo Rabbit

The story follows a German boy whose only ally is his imaginary friend, Hitler. Stars Roman Griffin Davis, Thomasin McKenzie EN ADEN CCEN

Crime

Drama

122 mins

Joker

The film centres around Batman’s iconic archnemesis, the Joker. Stars Joaquin Phoenix, Robert DeNiro, Zazie Beetz EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

111 mins

Shaft

John Shaft Jr uncovers the truth behind his friend’s death. Stars Samuel L Jackson, Alexandra Shipp, Richard Roundtree EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Action

128 mins

Terminator: Dark Fate

Drama

PG13

118 mins

Judy

125

Drama

112 mins

Official Secrets

Legend Judy Garland arrives in swinging London in the winter of 1968. Stars Renee Zellweger, Michael Gambon, Rufus Sewell

An Iraq war whistleblower leaks information to the press. Stars Keira Knightley, Ralph Fiennes, Matt Smith

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE

Drama

107 mins

The Art of Racing in the Rain

Drama

141 mins

Once Upon a Time... in Hollywood

A television star and his stunt double strive to achieve fame. Stars Brad Pitt, Leonardo DiCaprio EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

107 mins

PG13

The Current War

Sarah Connor and a cyborg human must protect a young girl. Stars Mackenzie Davis, Natalia Reye, Linda Hamilton

A dog recalls the life lessons he has learned from his owner, Denny. Stars Amanda Seyfried, Kevin Costner

Historical fiction inspired by Thomas Edison, George Westinghouse and Nikola Tesla. Stars Nicholas Hoult, Michael Shannon

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR ES CCEN

KidZone

Drama

KidZone

Action

102 mins

The Kitchen

The wives of gangsters operate their husbands’ rackets. Stars Melissa McCarthy, Tiffany Haddish, Elisabeth Moss EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

General

Parental Guidance

PG13

Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13.

Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Adventure

PG13

92 mins

The Peanut Butter Falcon

A young man runs away from a nursing home to follow his dream. Stars Shia LaBeouf, Dakota Johnson, Zack Gottsagen EN FR

Documentary PG

Western Stars

83 mins

Weaving archival footage, personal narration and song to tell the story of Western stars. Stars Patty Scialfa, Bruce Springsteen EN CCEN

KidZone

118 mins

Maleficent: Mistress of Evil

KidZone

118 mins

The Lion King (2019)

The characters face new adversaries as they protect the moors. Stars Angelina Jolie, Elle Fanning, Chiwetel Ejiofor

A journey through the African savanna. Voiced by Donald Glover, Beyoncé Knowles-Carter, James Earl Jones

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Français

Deutsch

Italiano

Español

Portuguese CCEN Closed Caption English

ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS

English Subtitles

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All the classics PG13

Take a trip down movie memory lane with our great selection of classics.

Our animation film package will guarantee fun for all the family with classics including ‘Bambi’, ‘Peter Pan’ and ‘Beauty and the Beast’.

121 mins

138 mins

Alien: Covenant Stars Michael Fassbender, Billy Crudup

All the President’s Men Stars Robert Redford

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR ES

KidZone

93 mins

(500) Days of Summer Stars Zooey Deschanel

162 mins

PG13

140 mins

PG13

121 mins

Any Given Sunday Stars Al Pacino, Dennis Quaid, Cameron Diaz

Batman Begins Stars Christian Bale, Michael Caine

Battle of the Sexes Stars Emma Stone, Steve Carell

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Marvel e Univers

Sit back and enjoy our actionpacked Marvel Studios package. Starring some of your favourite superheroes such as ‘Captain America’, ‘Iron Man’ and ‘Thor’.

PG13

115 mins

PG13

92 mins

PG13

134 mins

PG13

101 mins

PG13

142 mins

123 mins

PG13

129 mins

106 mins

Chariots of Fire Stars Ben Cross, Ian Charleson, Nicholas Farrell

Creed Stars Michael B Jordan, Sylvester Stallone

Deadpool Stars Ryan Reynolds, Morena Baccarin, TJ Miller

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

PG13

169 mins

PG13

94 mins

102 mins

East of Eden Stars James Dean, Raymond Massey

Enough Said Stars Julia LouisDreyfus, James Gandolfini

Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald Stars Eddie Redmayne

Gifted Stars Chris Evans, Mckenna Grace, Lindsay Duncan

Inception Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Joseph Gordon-Levitt

Interstellar Stars Matthew McConaughey, Anne Hathaway

Juno Stars Ellen Page, Michael Cera, Jennifer Garner

Little Miss Sunshine Stars Steve Carell, Toni Collette

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE CCEN

EN FR DE ES

136 mins

PG13

125 mins

PG13

152 mins

PG13

164 mins

PG13

130 mins

124 mins

PG13

137 mins

PG13

130 mins

Logan Stars Hugh Jackman, Patrick Stewart

The Blind Side Stars Quinton Aaron, Sandra Bullock

The Dark Knight Stars Christian Bale, Heath Ledger

The Dark Knight Rises Stars Christian Bale, Tom Hardy

The Prestige Stars Hugh Jackman, Christian Bale

We Bought a Zoo Stars Matt Damon, Scarlett Johansson

Wonder Woman Stars Gal Gadot, Chris Pine, Connie Nielson

X-Men: Days of Future Past Stars Hugh Jackman, James McAvoy

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Irish movies and shorts

PG13

95 mins

PG13

5 mins

PG13

98 mins

PG13

4 mins

PG13

6 mins

PG13

3 mins

PG13

15 mins

PG13

23 mins

A Bump Along the Way Stars Brona Gallagher

Biddy Stars Michael Coffee, Davy Lean

Dead Along the Way Stars Niall Murphy

Homo Sapiens in Space Stars Jack Daniel Hunt

Loving Alex Stars Emmet Byrne, Conor Hooper

Snare Directed by Ruan van Vliet

Take Me Swimming Stars Barry Ward, Olwen Fouéré, BJ Hogg

The Widow's Last Stars Sam Hardy, Damien Hasson, Caoimhe O'Shea

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING In the Heart of Dublin

Ir el a n d Aw a r d W i n n i n g

Handm ade i n Ir el a n d SUSHI • GRILL • BENTO BOX • RAMEN COCKTAILS • CRAFT BEER • SAKE

N at u r a l S ol i d P er f um e w i t h O r g a n i c B e e s wa x

WORLD-CLASS IRISH AND JAPANESE WHISKIES Family-Friendly Lunch Specials Vegan/Vegetarian Options Private Hire Bookings for Groups of All Sizes Late Night Venues

Ÿ No Liquid Ÿ Travel

Friendly

Ÿ Eco

Bamboo Packaging Packag ging

3 LOCATIONS IN DUBLIN CITY CENTRE YAMAMORI NORTH 38-39 Ormond Quay Lower (beside the Ha’Penny Bridge)

YAMAMORI SOUTH 72 South Great Georges Street Lunch & Dinner

IZAKAYA SAKE BAR 12/13 South Great Georges Street Late Night

DUBLIN 1

DUBLIN 2

See Website for Menus and Opening Hours Follow Us for Up-to-Date Info and More

@yamamoridining WWW.YAMAMORI.IE

FAMILY-OWNED FOR 25 YEARS

+353(0)87 6158944 info@jobrowne.com w w w. j o b r o w n e . c o m Coolmanagh, Hacketstown, C o C a r l o w, Ireland

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TV time Catch up on an old favourite or discover a new show. Business CNBC Debate Can the workforce future-proof itself? Managing Asia Jeffrey Cheah speaks about green townships Marketing. Media. Money How much marketing does Tinder do? The Brave Ones Hugh Evans helps the lives of billions The Edge The technology behind summer’s biggest sporting event Trailblazers Cuba Gooding Jr

LinkedIn Learning

Wellbeing in the Skies, S31 EP 1–11 Harness the power of mindfulness as you listen to expert Alison Canavan describe various breathing techniques, meditations and much more in this powerful series. Stay in the present moment as you use your breath to release any tensions or anxieties during your travels. You're sure to arrive calm and relaxed.

Bill George on Self Awareness Authenticity and Leadership Browsing the Web Securely How to protect your information Customer Decision Journey The customer and brand relationship Employee Experience Design an employee experience program How to Create a Perfect Elevator Pitch The perfect elevator pitch Leading Effectively Become a more effective leader Marketing: On Assignment Get marketing tips for the modern age Pitching Your Ideas Strategically Learn how to pitch your ideas The New Rules of Work Learn why the modern workplace is changing Writing Under a Deadline Produce a written piece under time constraints

Kidzone Big City Greens Cricket launches a chicken into space Coop & Cami Ask the World Coop and Cami prepare for a dance Giving Tales Fairy tales by Hans Christian Andersen Marvel’s Spider-Man Peter’s second year at Horizon High Peek Zoo Adventures in Peak Zoo Raven’s Home Raven visits Chelsea Scooby-Doo! Mystery Incorporated The gang solve mysteries

Speechless, S3 EP 1–6 After finding a school that provides the best education for their eldest son JJ, a high-schooler with cerebral palsy, the DiMeo family settles down and comes to terms with becoming part of a community.

Laugh out loud Bridget and Eamon An unhappily married 80s Irish couple Family Guy An animated sitcom Fawlty Towers Basil runs a hotel Life in Pieces The Short family The Big Bang Theory Physicists cope with normal life The Middle Family mishaps

Learn & discover

Sports

Andy James: Pranks & Magic Magic on the streets of Dublin Crikey! It’s The Irwins Steve Irwin’s legacy continues with son Robert How it’s Made Learn how everyday products are made Legendary Catch Travelling across the Pacific to fish Scrapyard Supercar Scrap supercars race the Porsche 911 Seeing the USA Exploring iconic experiences in the USA The World’s Most Extraordinary Homes Spain’s architecture There’s Something About Patrick Neil Delamere learns the truth about St Patrick Walking the Walk Awareness about Motor Neurone Disease Year Million Artificial intelligence is an inevitable future

Against the Odds Stories about triumphant acts in sport Clubland News about your favourite football clubs Countdown to Tokyo Follows the Olympic dream of USA sprinters Football Stars The lives of football’s celebrities Sports Woman Showcasing stories on women’s sport The Shortlist The top 10 Premier League transfer bargain

Music & arts Bob Fosses: It’s Showtime! The incredible life of Bob Fosse Byrne and Kelly: Echoes – Inside Story Neil Byrne and Ryan Kelly perform their album Close Up The gossip on Hollywood Stars Let it Play: Juliette Lewis – Hard Lovin’ Woman A documentary about actress Juliette Lewis Take That: Odyssey – Greatest Hits Tour Take That’s 30th year celebrations The World According to Radiohead The themes of Radiohead albums

Real life 10 Things to Know About… Could Bioenergy provide a sustainable future? A Long Weekend in...With Rory O’Connell A series combining travel and cookery Culinary Heights at Ikarus Follow the unique restaurant project in Salzburg Find Me a Home View three property markets in Ireland Great Lighthouses of Ireland Ireland’s lighthouses and their importance Grow Cook Eat From plot (or pot) to plate Project Runway All Stars Past designers return for the ultimate competition Seven Worlds, One Planet The animals that inhabit Antarctica Tracks and Trails Explore rugby legend Keith Woods’s home county Wild Bear Rescue The story of orphaned black bear cubs

Viral Annie Jaffrey A beauty and lifestyle vlogger & blogger Dara Tah An adventure vlogger from Ireland Diane Jennings Fun videos featuring Diane’s new experiences Haste's Kitchen Learn simple and nutritious recipes 101Facts Get ready for 101 facts Melanie Murphy A lifestyle YouTuber and author

Wellbeing Ageless Gardens Witness how gardening unites people Chasing Sleep Sleep is one of the hottest topics today My Perfect Family Caring for a family with disabilities Taking Back the Years Different approaches to fighting ageing The Dose with Dr Billy Reviewing common health complaints What’s Really in Our Food? The science behind our food

Wish you were here Discover the Caminito del Rey, Spain The history of the Caminito del Rey Introducing Rome Explore Rome with this video guide Introducing Singapore Discover Singapore with this video guide London’s Secret Urban Garden A tropical oasis hiding in central London My First Trip: New York City New York City firsts The Best of Irish Cities View Ireland’s engaging and historic cities

‘lightly touching the earth back’

EILIS O’CONNELL

Irelands pre-eminent sculptor

7th March - 18th April The exhibition is accompanied by an illustrated catalogue - text by Sara Baume

GALLERY PANGOLIN

CHALFORD - GLOS - GL6 8NT 01453 889765

www.gallery-pangolin.com

Morphwall 2009, bronze, edition of 5, 29 x 60 x 19 cms

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Binge watching

Big Little Lies Season 2 R Exploring the malignancy of lies, the durability of friendships, the fragility of marriage and, of course, the vicious ferocity of parenting, this year’s ‘Big Little Lies’ promises plenty of twists and surprises, as relationships fray, loyalties erode, and the potential for emotional and bodily injury still looms.

Because there’s no better time for a binge watch. Take a look at our latest boxsets. Chernobyl Season 1 R

Gotham Season 5

Chernobyl dramatises the aftermath of the nuclear power station disaster in northern Ukraine. The show follows the stories of those who contained the devastation and those who fought to prevent further disaster.

Based on the characters from the DC comics, this show chronicles the rise of one of the most infamous superheroes of our time whilst simultaneously revealing the spawning ground of the most iconic villains.

Love/Hate Season 3 & 4

The iconic crime series that delves deep into Dublin's underworld is back, and explores the lives of characters old and new.

Mr Robot Season 3 PG13 This Golden Globe awardwinning series follows a cyber-security engineer, Elliot Alderson. This season examines the fragmentation of Elliot and Mr Robot.

Suits Season 9

PG13

Suits gives an intimate look at the fast-paced world at a corporate law firm in Manhattan. In this final season, the firm deals with the repercussions of Robert’s disbarment.

Luther Season 5

PG13

Idris Elba returns to the role of DCI John Luther in this crime drama where he continues to pursue the dark and corrupt side of humanity on the streets of London.

Riverdale Season 3 PG13 Follow Archie Andrews, a high school football player and his friends, as they navigate the tribulations of teenage love, friendships and school as the group becomes enmeshed in the dark secrets of Riverdale.

The Handmaid’s Tale Season 3 R The Emmy-winning drama series returns for a third season and revolution is on the horizon. Offred positions herself on the front line – but who will be standing with her?

Historic O’Neill’s Pub & Kitchen

FAMOUS MOLLY MALONE STATUE OPPOSITE O’ ’NEILL O’NEILL’S

Conveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. • Traditional Irish Music and Dancers 7 nights-a-week, No Charge • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts • HD TV Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games

• Heated Roof Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area with TV Screens so you wont miss the winning goal • Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland

Opposing fans enjoying the game on one of O’Neill’s big screens

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656. www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm / Fri: 8.00am-12.30am / Sat: 8.00am-12.30am / Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

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Audio Relax to your favourite tunes, make a playlist or delve into a new podcast. Ryan Hurd Acclaimed songwriter, Ryan Hurd, is back and this time releasing his five track EP ‘Platonic’. Displaying his singer-songwriter abilities, Hurd reveals himself as one of country music’s most multi-dimensional artists. Featuring beautiful ballads and more upbeat tracks, this uplifting EP will get you moving in your seat.

Classical

Kidzone

Sound Out Ian McGlynn, RTÉ Lyric fm The Blue of the Night RTÉ Lyric fm

RTÉ Junior: The Dastardly Deeds of Professor Nasty The Professor breaks out of Little Rikers Daycare

Easy listening

Rock

An hour-long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels

Marty Miller Radio Nova

Indie

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One Featuring two documentaries – the first, Benjy the Little Gay Bull. In 2014 County Mayo farmer Joe Kelly bought a bull for breeding purposes, but when the bull didn’t take any notice of the cows on the farm, Joe found himself in trouble. The second documentary hears six children open a box owned by their late mother.

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

Irish Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists Sinéad ar Bord Traditional and contemporary tracks in the Irish language

Pop Lilian Smith RTÉ Radio 1 Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs 98FM – Totally Irish Ciarán O’Connor, 98FM RTÉ Gold Rick O’Shea, RTÉ Gold Tara Stewart RTÉ 2FM Tracy Clifford RTÉ 2FM

Talk

Podcast Erin’s Isle Which way to the cliffs? Erin’s Isle Celtic Connections Erin’s Isle Ireland’s Talking Donkeys Erin’s Isle From Cannonballs to the Cosmos

RTÉ Gold RTÉ Gold plays the greatest in popular music from the 1950s to the 2000s. In this special programme for Aer Lingus passengers, RTÉ Gold presenter Rick O’Shea has chosen for you a selection of tracks from the show’s vast archive.

Podcast: Erin’s Isle Enjoy this series of engaging podcasts that talk about all things Irish. Learn about the history of the Cliffs of Moher, the Celtic links and ancestry that traverse the Atlantic, talking donkeys and the stars that fill the Irish skies.

INFLIGHT

133

Kelsey Lu ‘Blood’ by Kelsey Lu is the debut album of the North Carolina singer. Her haunting and immersive album pushes the boundaries of modern music showcasing her consistency of tone without compromising on her experimental style. An album not to be missed!

All-time Favourites

Country

Jazz

Pop

KidZone

Aretha Franklin Soul Sister Boney M The Magic of Boney M Carole King Music Kenny Loggins Nightwatch Taj Mahal Taj Mahal The Bangles Different Light

Johnny Cash At Madison Square Garden Old Dominion Old Dominion Ryan Hurd Panorama Ryan Hurd Platonic Wildwood Kin Wildwood Kin Tyler Childers Country Squire

Ada Morghe Pictures Ashley Henry Beautiful Vinyl Hunter Camila Meza Ambar New Masters Reworks – Vol 1 Sonny Rollins The Essential Sonny Rollins: The RCA Years Triosence Scorpio Rising

Kelsey Lu Blood Muna Saves The World Lolo Zouaï High Highs to Low Lows Mark Ronson Late Night Feelings Prettymuch Phases Ruel Free Time

Baby Bears Instrumental Baby Songs Bob Hastings 45 Songs Children Love to Sing Fairy Tales for Kids Puss in Boots Fairy Tales for Kids The Three Little Pigs Fairy Tales for Kids Alice In Wonderland Lee Seo-Hyun Children’s Song with Violin

Alternative Broken Back She Falls Sontalk Stay Wild San Fermin The Cormorant I The SLP The SLP The Tarantula Waltz Kallocain Twin XL How To Talk To Strangers

Classical Christoph Sietzen Silence Daniel Behle Mozart German Brass Trip to America Jonas Kaufmann Wien The Wave Quartet Carmen Vladimir Feltsman Chopin: Preludes, Op 28

Electro Groove Armada Groove Armada Greatest Hits Kayzo Unleashed Lost Kings Lost Angeles Lost Frequencies Less Is More (Deluxe) Martin Garrix ByLaw The Chainsmokers Sick Boy

Irish Barbara Dunne Classic Irish Melodies Volume 2 Christy Moore Live at The Point Little Hours Now The Lights Have Changed Little Hours Acoustic Live at Attica Seba Safe In Waiting Van Morrison The Authorized Bang Collection

Metal Arch Enemy Covered in Blood Dream Theater Distance Over Time In Flames Come Clarity (Re-Issue 2014) Killswitch Engage Atonement Krisiun Scourge of the Enthroned Tool Ænima

Opera Anita Rachvelishvili Anita Christian Gerhaher Mio caro Händel Howard Arman Rossini: Stabat Materas Nino Machaidze Romantic Arias Nuria Rial Muera Cupido Plácido Domingo Domingo: Save Your Nights For Me

R ’n’ B A$AP Ferg Floor Seats HER I Used to Know Her Lil Nas X 7 Raphael Saadiq Jimmy Leed Rick Ross Port of Miami 2 Various Artists The Lion King: The Gift

Rock Blink182 Nine Black Futures Never Not Nothing Bruce Springsteen Western Stars Cage the Elephant Social Cues Scouting For Girls The Trouble With Boys Vampire Weekend Father of the Bride

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Your comfort and safety Your comfort and safety is our number one priority at all times. Our crew are on hand to look after you and any requirements you may having during your flight. We do ask that we have your attention during our safety announcements. Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs. Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat with our cabin crew. Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

We ask for your attention during the safety demonstration by our cabin crew before take-off. We also recommend that you familiarise yourself with the safety card in the seat pocket in front of you.

We have a strict no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. You cannot smoke in any part of the cabin.

General safety tips for your flight today

• Do pay attention to any instructions given to you by our cabin crew.

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment. • It is illegal to consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest, including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique. • Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. • Any behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

Use of photography on board today

Guest with wheelchair requirements

Assistance contact details

If you or a guest you’re flying with requires a wheelchair to reach or depart the plane, we’re here to help.

specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Simply get in touch with us at least 48 hours in advance of your trip, let us know your booking reference number and we’ll take care of this for you.

Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

• You’re very welcome to take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

However: • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board. • Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

#NotOnMyFlight We’re proud to have joined a European Aviation Authority campaign, #NotOnMyFlight, to promote a zero policy tolerance towards disruptive passengers. Your comfort and safety is our number one priority.

Join the James Joyce experience every wednesday at 3pm for a 30 minute reading of Ulysses. Starting from the 12th of February. Traditional Irish Pub, food served from 12pm daily.

Live Music 7 Days a Week Tel：(01) 882 4355 | Email: Bookings@MulliganandHaines.ie Address: 32 Dame Street, Dublin2 www. MulliganandHaines.ie

www.wplunket.ie W.Plunket are delighted to present our Traditional Irish Music and Dancing Show every Friday and Saturday evening from the 14th of February. No Cover Charge! Just Craic Agus Ceòl.

Food served from 12pm daily For dinner or table reservations please email, bookings@wplunket.ie

(01) 872 8188｜bookings@wplunket.ie

52 Middle Abbey St, North City, Dublin 1, D01 W9H6

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Your comfort and safety Your portable electronic devices You’re very welcome to use portable electronic equipment on this flight, but to help keep you safe we ask that you follow our guidelines below.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, minidisk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before take-off. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Switch your device to flight mode or the flight safe setting during taxi, take-off and landing. If you’d like to use your phone during your flight, switch it to flight safe mode. If your device doesn’t have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing, when the cabin crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are welcome to use your phone – provided it’s within easy reach. It’s important that you stay seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew when we land.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** Use of portable bluetooth type speakers on board is not permitted. **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

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About AerSpace With our premium short-haul travel experience you get more space to work or relax because weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll always leave the middle seat free. And with lounge access, Fast Track security and priority boarding youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll breeze through the airport. Arrive at your best with AerSpace.

What benefits come with AerSpace? Dedicated seating, with the centre seat always empty

AerSpace is available to book now on aerlingus.com. 20kg check-in bag allowance

Fast track security access at Dublin Airport

Lounge access (where applicable)

Priority boarding

Dedicated overhead locker space for your bags

Complimentary food and beverage on board from our Bia menu

Subject to conditions and availability.

FOR OVER 175 YEARS EVERYONE HAS ENJOYED A WARM IRISH WELCOME IN THE TEMPLE BAR.

MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL

LOVERS OF IRISH WHISKEY CAN EXPERIERENCE IRELANDS LARGEST WHISKEY COLLECTION, COMPLIMENTED WITH LIVE IRISH MUSIC SESSIONS DAILY AT THE FRIENDLIEST SPOT IN DUBLIN.

DAWSON STREET DUBLIN 2

MARCO PIERRE WHITE COURTYARD BAR & GRILL

2016 winner

DONNYBROOK DUBLIN 4

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

✹▲❙❙ ❋ ✫❙❋ ✬❊ ❙ ✬ ❊❖■

2016 2017 winner

2018 2017 winner

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Flight connections Dublin and London Heathrow Airports Flight connections at Dublin Airport

Flight connections at T2 London Heathrow On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

YES

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2

USA

All other destinations

USA

Follow signs for US Preclearance

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and ﬂight status

Which terminal are you flying from? For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Where are you ﬂying to today?

Are your bags checked through to your ﬁnal destination?

Passport Control and Security Screening

Geataí Gates

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security. Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

101-335

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside

Gate Information Screens

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

Departure gate Enjoy free Wi-Fi in Dublin Airport

DUBLIN EXCLUSIVE

Cocktails from €8.95

GLENDALOUGH POITÍN € 7.45 Poitín is Ireland's historic predecessor to whiskey. It can be traced as far back as 584AD in the monastic settlements of Glendalough.

Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 HARDROCK.COM

E R ’ U O Y

N O C BA AZY! Me

Bacon Crusted Ribs

Fleet Street • Stephen’s Green • Blanchardstown Dundrum • Swords • Liffey Valley

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INFLIGHT

Explore the world with us

Anchorage Juneau

Ketchikan

Edmonton Saskatoon Vanc Bel

Victoria

Seattle

Calgary

Portland

Regina

Eugene

Winnipeg

Vancouver Bellingham

Victoria

Wenatchee

Seattle

Thunder Bay

Kalispell Spokane Pullman

Pasco

Great Falls Belgrade

Portland

Sacramento

San Jose

Ottawa Traverse

Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Omaha

Reno

Kansas City

Oakland Fresno

Fort Wayne Akron Canton

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Oklahoma City

Tucson

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

San Antonio

Houston

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis

New York JFK

Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

Philadelphia

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Charlotte Columbia

Charleston

El Paso Austin

Newark

Boston Hyannis

Washington (National)

Lexington

Little Rock Phoenix

Providence

Washington (Dulles)

Nashville

Tulsa

Hartford Pittsburgh

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore Cincinnati

Portland ME

Albany

Rochester

Dayton

Indianapolis

Springﬁeld Las Vegas

Buffalo

Cleveland

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Syracuse

Detroit

St Louis

Halifax

Burlington

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Chicago

Des Moines

Denver

Moncton Fredericton

Montreal

Billings

Medford

Santa Rosa

Duluth

Minneapolis–St Paul

Redmond Eugene

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Walla Walla

Yakima

Missoula

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Honolulu Kahului

Key West

Honolulu Kahului

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

INFLIGHT

We fly to more than 100 destinations across the US, Canada, Europe, the UK and Ireland. We’ve also got great partnerships with JetBlue, British Airways and many more airlines to connect you to even more destinations. Where’s next on your travel wishlist?

143

Save time with US Preclearance You’ll clear US immigration in Dublin or Shannon Airport before you board your flight with us to the US. That means arriving in the US as a domestic passenger and avoiding those immigration queues.

Aer Lingus European and North American network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford

Isle of Man

Knock

Birmingham

Cork

Hamburg

Manchester

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Cardiff Newquay

Amsterdam

Bristol Exeter

Berlin

London London Heathrow City Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Southampton

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille Rome

Barcelona Sardinia

Madrid

Naples

Alicante Malaga

Puglia

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Bourgas

Dubrovnik

Izmir

Athens Catania

Faro Santorini

Tenerife Tenerife

Rhodes

Lanzarote Lanzarote Fuerteventura Fuerteventura

Gran Canaria Gran Canaria

Route map correct at time of print. Destinations and schedules subject to change.

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INFLIGHT

Connections to Middle East & Australasia

Dublin

London Heathrow

Dubai Abu Dhabi

Sydney

Melbourne

You can book flights from Dublin to the Middle East and Australia at aerlingus.com with our codeshare partners, British Airways and Etihad Airways.

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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INFLIGHT

Let’s get you connected Keep chatting, sharing and discovering Connect to our inﬂight Wi-Fi 1

Connect to our Mobile Network* 1

Turn on your device and connect to Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Turn on your device and switch off ﬂight-safe mode

(A330 and A321neoLR)

If the Aeromobile Network doesn’t connect straight away, select it via your Network settings

2 Launch your browser, click ‘Buy Internet Access’ and purchase a plan Choose from the following plans

AerSocial €6.95 | $7.95 Up to 50MB

AerSurf €13.95 | $15.95 Up to 120MB The smart choice

AerMax €29.95 | $32.95 Up to 270MB

3 Enter a username and password and start browsing

2 Once you’re connected, you’ll receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile

*Mobile Network is available on A330 only

AirlinkExpress

Fly Straight to Dublin City Route 747

Route 757

IFSC & Point Village

Connolly Station & Busaras

Westland Row

O’Connell Street Temple Bar Heuston Station

Baggot Street Merrion Square & St. Stephen’s Green Camden (Charlotte Way)

€7 €12

One way

Departures up to every 10 minutes between Dublin Airport & City Tickets available at the Travel & Bus Information Desk (T1), Airlink Express Bus Stop, and On-Board

Return

airlinkexpress.ie

148

INFLIGHT

Welcome to your world-class airline Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re so proud of our 4-star Skytrax rating. Being celebrated on the world stage for our consistent quality and excellence in guest experience never gets old. We hope you enjoy your ďŹ&#x201A;ight with us today.

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

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BOUTIQUE

TOP PICKS

From bewitching bracelets to hi-tech trackers, Valentine’s Day gift ideas abound in Boutique magazine.

SECRID MINIWALLET EXCLUSIVE €60 Deceptively small, this red and black leather wallet holds up to ten cards, has a cash envelope and snaps closed with ease. The best part is its secret lever, allowing bank cards to cascade upwards for easy access.

HARRY POTTER SILVER CHARM BRACELET €20 Even Muggles can enjoy this new Harry Potterauthorised silver bracelet. Along with three spellinscribed beads, it also has a “chocolate” frog charm and comes in ornate packaging.

GIORGIO ARMANI SÌ PASSIONE €54 The newest fragrance in Armani’s Sì line is a bold balance of fruity, rose, vanilla and woody notes. The 30ml bottle comes in Valentine’s-red packaging, too.

WEAVER & WILDE REVERSIBLE SCARF €50 A modern take on an Irish classic, this men’s scarf is 100 per cent Merino lambswool. It’s also reversible, featuring cool indigo and grey colours – easy to pair with any outﬁt.

BITMORE HEART RATE SPORTS TRACKER €49 Sleek and subtle, Bitmore’s ﬁtness watch monitors your steps, distance travelled, calories burned, activity time and heart rate. Plus, it has call and SMS alerts.

PREMIER SUITES Spacious serviced apartments for both business and leisure guests.

Bringing Home A Little Closer Amsterdam (Opening June 2020) Antwerp Birmingham Bristol Dublin Glasgow Liverpool Manchester Newcastle Nottingham Reading Rotterdam

www.premiersuiteseurope.com

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal

manufactured before your eyes Guided Factory Tours Daily

C: +353 (0) 51 317000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com W: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

Reader offer, enter CARA when booking to SAVE 10%

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A FINE VINTAGE

THE GREEN TEAM Remembering a daring new Aer Lingus uniform and its arrival on the scene in the Seventies.

he cabin crew uniform depicted here was introduced in 1970. The Aer Lingus chief executive at the time, the late Michael Dargan, wrote in Cara (April-June 1970) that “Our regular passengers this summer will notice how our air hostesses ... are stepping into the Seventies with a new touch of elegance. The new emerald green and St Patrick’s blue uniforms are indeed easy on the eye”. In the same issue, writer Vici Hainworth described how “hostesses” and other uniformed personnel were invited to take part in a design competition, with a prize offered for the best proposal. A selection of entries was later used to brief the chosen designer, Digby Morton, described at the time as one of the top talents of the London fashion scene. Sadly, the uniform did not accrue general favour among Aer Lingus guests, or the wider public, particularly in respect of the rather eye-catching, emerald green tights ... it was replaced after about five years by a less daring iteration.

EXPLORE THE WORLD THIS WINTER DOUBLE AVIOS This winter, we’re making it possible for you to explore more of the world with double Avios. Book between 1st February and 31st March for rentals between 1st February and 31st March to beneﬁt from a minimum of 1400 Avios*. CARS.AERLINGUS.COM

*Minimum car group C for rentals of 3 days or more.

150 years of history in the making.

Passed on by generations from our family to yours. Since founding the business 150 years ago, Thomas Weir began his legacy to create the finest jewellery. Today, Weir & Sons is still dedicated to helping craft precious family memories to be treasured from one generation to the next. www.weir.ie