Cara July 2019 by Image Publications

MIRTH CONTROL Comic actress Aisling Bea

THICKET TO RIDE Forest bathing in Co Wicklow

MINNESOTA NICEST Double down in the Twin Cities

CONTENTS JULY 2019

CHECK IN 4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news and announcements 8 ARRIVALS Warm welcomes at Dublin’s T2 13 CHECK IN Our July hot list of events, shopping, food and drinks news 26 DETOURIST Eoin Higgins probes the nooks and crannies of Madrid’s Embajadores 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s bookish bonanzas 32 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Actor Eileen Walsh on dividing her time between London and Cork

FEATURES

38 THE ONLY WAY IS UP Marie Kelly finds actor/comedian Aisling Bea a hive of activity 44 LESS IS MORE Small steps, big impact – Geraldine Carton meets sustainability stars 52 FOREST GUMPTION Yvonne Gordon dives into Co Wicklow for a spot of forest bathing 62 TWICE AS NICE Minneapolis-St Paul native Andrew Parks shows us around the Twin Cities 80 NORTHWEST BY MOUTH Manchester is really stepping up to the plate, says Emma Sturgess 90 RIVER RUN Photographer Mathew Scott presents Concrete River, a unique LA story

REGULARS

BUSINESS

73 10 OFFBEAT WALKING TOURS 109 BUSINESS & LIFE Shayna Sappington takes the paths Prague ticks all the boxes for work less travelled and rest, says David Creighton 99 HELLO GLAMPERS 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Nicola Brady’s luxe lodgings Film geek Charlene Lydon shows 106 48 HOURS ON THE AMALFI COAST us how she makes the magic happen Nicole Trilivas road-trip from Naples 118 RICH PICKINGS 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Lucy White surveys the new crop On-board info, entertainment and retail of Dublin hotels 152 A FINE VINTAGE 120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Another rummage through Aer Lingus’ HubSpot’s Christian Kinnear shares photographic library his soft spot for millennials

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WELCOME ABOARD Holiday! Celebrate! It’s our busiest time of year at Aer Lingus, with more flights, more opportunities and more onboard delights.

elcome aboard and thank you for choosing to fly with us today. Summer is now in full flight, with holidaymakers jetting across our network in hot pursuit of sunshine, great food and quality time with loved ones. As we continue to grow and expand the airline across North America, we recently celebrated our one millionth guest crossing the Atlantic and are delighted to offer even greater choice this July 1, with the launch of our inaugural Dublin to Minneapolis-St Paul direct daily service. Minneapolis-St Paul, Minnesota, below, is an exciting addition to our North American portfolio, not only for its strong business links with Ireland’s healthcare and food processing sectors, but also its growing popularity as a leisure destination. European travellers can connect from 14 airports in the UK and also from Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Brussels, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Lyon, Paris and Zurich. Turn to page 62 to see why the Twin Cities are well worth exploring. Our transatlantic expansion has created lots of interesting job opportunities at Aer Lingus. Earlier in the year we relaunched our aircraft engineering apprentice scheme and we’re currently recruiting for our Future Pilot Scheme, a fully sponsored pilot training programme. We’re looking for candidates from diverse backgrounds – strong team players who demonstrate leadership skills – while making a concerted effort to encourage more women to apply. Aer Lingus has a strong track record of supporting female aviators: in 1988 we were the first airline in Europe to recruit a woman pilot, Gráinne Cronin. We’re currently employing

twice as many females compared with the international airline industry average, something we are very proud of and keen to grow. The scheme is entry level and requires no previous flying experience, so if you know of someone who would like to earn their wings, they can find details at aerlingus.com/ careers until mid-July. We’re delighted to inform you that we have retained our coveted four-star Skytrax rating, awarded by the international air transport rating organisation. Skytrax recognises our product offering, service and overall guest experience as world class, and is a reflection of the investments we have made to enhance your experience travelling with us. These include our express bag drop and new flight connections facility in Dublin, making it easier and quicker for guests in transit; improved onboard experiences, such as superior inflight entertainment, new touchscreen seat-back screens, improved food and beverage on transatlantic flights, the addition of mood lighting as well as digital experience improvements at aerlingus.com and on our mobile app. But, as ever, it is our ground staff and cabin crew who shine the brightest, Skytrax recognising the Irish warmth and hospitality that is synonymous with Aer Lingus worldwide. We look forward to giving you continued four-star service each time you fly with us. Thank you for reading and have a very pleasant journey.

SEEING STARS Aer Lingus continues to offer our guests world class service and we are thrilled to have retained our four-star Skytrax rating, remaining Ireland’s only four-star airline. From digital booking to inflight improvements, we strive to serve!

WAYS TO SAVE Since launching in March, AerClub members have saved €1 million, thanks to ‘Pay with Avios’, a loyalty programme allowing members to part pay for their flights using their accrued Avios. To register for AerClub at aerlingus.com/aerclub.

RECORD BREAKERS Aer Lingus recently celebrated its one millionth guest travelling across the Atlantic – and with Minneapolis-St Paul launching this month as its 16th long-haul route, 2019 is set to be another record-breaking year.

EDITORIAL

EDITOR Lucy White DEPUTY EDITOR Eoin Higgins EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Shayna Sappington SUB-EDITOR Sheila Wayman CONTRIBUTORS Nicki Buglewicz, Nicola Brady, Geraldine Carton, Brian Conway, Mark Duggan, Yvonne Gordon, Bridget Hourican, Marie Kelly, Narad Kutowaroo, Annapurna Mellor, Melanie Mullan, Emma Sturgess, Ashley Sullivan, Nicole Trilivas, Kyle Tunney, Elly Walton

ART

ART DIRECTOR Niamh Richardson CREATIVE DIRECTOR Bill O’Sullivan

ADVERTISING

ADVERTISING MANAGER Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie ADVERTISING COPY CONTACT Derek Skehan, +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie

ADMINISTRATION

FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Brett Walker ACCOUNTS MANAGER Lisa Dickenson CREDIT CONTROLLER Angela Bennett CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Clodagh Edwards

GROUP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lizzie Gore-Grimes GROUP CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Melanie Morris GROUP EDITOR AT LARGE Laura George EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Ann Reihill

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

CHAIRMAN Laura George DIRECTORS Patrick Dillon Malone, Clodagh Edwards, Melanie Morris, Robert Power

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

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CEO Clare Broadbent BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Christina da Silva COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Justine Daly CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stuart Purcell FINANCE DIRECTOR Jane Moﬀett STRATEGY & BUSINESS DIRECTOR Ann Hartland +44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE PUBLICATIONS LTD

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © 2019 Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reﬂect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd. Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Oﬃce of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie.

CONTRIBUTORS Andrew Parks is the creative director of Minnevangelist (minnevangelist.com), a new website that celebrates the people and places that make Minnesota the Midwest’s most underrated state: check out his Cara debut on page 62. The Minneapolis-based journalist also runs the daily underground music dossier self-titled and writes for publications including Food & Wine, Condé Nast Traveler, AFAR, Travel + Leisure, Bon Appétit, and New York Magazine.

Irish/British journalist and copywriter David Creighton ﬁrst visited the Czech-capital back in 1993 as a fresh-faced town planning student, during the heady days of early post-Communism. Regular trips since and a move to Prague in 2000 have allowed him to witness ﬁrst-hand the ongoing transformation of the City of 100 Spires. On page 110, he looks at this very topic, exploring why Prague has become such a popular destination for investors, not just tourists, and includes practical tips for your visit.

Mathew Scott was born and raised in Portland, Oregon, has a BFA in photography from the Academy of Art in San Francisco and is based in LA. One personal project, Concrete River, led him down all 82 kilometres of the Los Angeles River in an attempt to better understand his adopted city, with aims of “showing the tension that the city has always had with its natural environment and what we can hope for its future by looking at its past”. All is revealed on page 90.

ON THE COVER

MIRTH CONTROL Comic actress Aisling Bea

THICKET TO RIDE Forest bathing in Co Wicklow

MINNESOTA NICEST Double down in the Twin Cities

Aisling Bea was photographed by Patrick Bolger at The Marylebone Hotel, London. Styling by Brian Conway, makeup by Nicki Buglewicz and hair by Narad Kutowaroo.

WELCOME TO OUR NEW ISSUE! WE ARE ALL YOURS. FEEL FREE TO TAKE THIS MAGAZINE AWAY FOR YOUR ONWARD JOURNEY. WE WOULD ALSO LOVE YOUR FEEDBACK AND TRAVEL PHOTOS VIA TWITTER @CARAMAGAZINE.

SO OUR STORY BEGINS.

INTRODUCING THE ROE & CO. DISTILLERY

LONELY PLANET

IN THE HEART OF T H E L I B E R T I E S D I S T R I C T, DUBLIN 8

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WHO? Conor, Emmet, Erin, Ellen and Kevin Myles FLYING IN FROM … Rome ELLEN SAYS … “We are coming back from our five-day family holiday. We had way too much ice cream!”

WHO? Wilma Smit and Titia Sterenberg FLYING IN FROM … Amsterdam WILMA SAYS … “We are here for a week on holiday. We plan to visit Westport and then rent a car to travel up the coast.”

WHO? Frances and Calem Abeton FLYING IN FROM … Delhi via London CALEM SAYS … “I was in Delhi for two weeks for a trek with school. My mom came to pick me up.”

WHO? Laura Courbis FLYING IN FROM … Paris LAURA SAYS … “Since my sister moved to Ireland, I try to visit her whenever I can. I travelled from my home in France to see her this summer.”

WHO? Iulia Ilie and Gaurav Sharma FLYING IN FROM … Hamburg GAURAV SAYS … “We are in a long-distance relationship, so I flew out here for the weekend to spend time with Iulia.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN & WORDS BY SHAYNA SAPPINGTON

ARRIVALS

Trekking through T2, these bright-eyed travellers gushed about their summer adventures.

And Barcelona, elona, London, Rome, R Manchester, Berlin, Lisbon, Vienna, W Warszawa, Essen, Bonn, Galway, Turin, N Naples, Porto, Stuttgart, Lϋbeck, Stockholm, Hannover, Milan, Aachen, Poznań, oznań, M Málaga, Palermo, Limerick, Sevilla, Łόdź, Valencia, Dortmund, Krakόw, Cork, Frankfurt, Salzburg, Waterford, Asturias, Graz, Madrid, Düsseldorf, Nottingham, Wrocław, Kilkenny, Edinburgh, Gdańsk, Hamburg, Leipzig, Katowice, Mϋnchen, Leverkusen, Köln...

Ireland’s leading taxi app is available in over 100 European cities.

BLARNEY CASTLE

GARDENS

Renowned for Bestowing the Gift of Eloquence Each visit to the gardens at Blarney Castle is always a unique experience. The grounds change remarkably with the seasons and new surprises await you around every corner. The 70 acres of gardens are a must see destination, and the estate boasts one of Ireland’s finest collections of trees and plants from all corners of the world. As Ireland’s first Wildlife Estate, it stands to reason that this haven so close to the city is a wonderful location to be close to nature. A stealthy visitor may spot an elusive kingfisher along the riverside walks or a red squirrel in the arboretum. It’s no surprise that Blarney’s gardens are the most visited in Ireland. There is something for everyone, from the amateur gardener to the seasoned plantsman or the family out to explore. Follow the map to find the historic and magical Rock Close with it’s Wishing Steps and Witch’s Kitchen; or the deadly Poison Garden, the Jurassic Fern Garden or the hidden Himalayan Valley.

Visiting gardens just got so much more exciting!

July 9am – 7pm (last admission 6pm) www.blarneycastle.ie | info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork)

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MATTERS OF FORM If you missed Barcelona Design Week last month, fear not – the Design & Crafts Council of Ireland’s tie-in exhibition, Surface Matters, continues until July 21 at the city’s Centre d’Artesania Catalunya. There, see works by 24 Irish craftspeople, who have manipulated raw metal, yarn, clay, porcelain and wood to dramatic effect: leather, armour-like textiles by Úna Burke, extraordinary, fabric-like ceramics by Nuala O’Donovan and undulating chairs, above, by furniture maker Joseph Walsh. Curated by Liz Cooper, admission free. barcelonadesignweek.com

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HERE AND NOW

WEST FEST This year’s Galway International Arts Festival is a heavenly

concoction of comedy, theatre, music and visual arts. Marvel at masterpieces such as Sam Jinks’ In the Flesh – hyper-realistic sculptures made from silicone and human hair – and Ériu’s unique production of Oscar Wilde’s Salomé, performed entirely in Irish. Other acts include Macy Gray, above, Two Door Cinema Club and conversations with UCD professor Diarmaid Ferriter on the Irish border. Open minds required. July 15-28. giaf.ie

EYES ON THE SKIES Amazing aerobatics, dangerous daredevils and sensational Strikemasters come together for an exhilarating air show on July 27-28. This summer, watch highly skilled pilots soar through bright blue skies in Aer Lingus’ Airbus A320, a super Sukhoi 31 and a 100 per cent electric Navette Bretonne at the Bray Air Display. Highlights include award-winning daredevil Richard Goodwin, aerobatic stunts and vintage aircraft. But the ground will be just as buzzing as the skies with a Seafront Funfair and helicopter rides over Bray Head. brayairdisplay.com

SUMMER OF LOVE THE ULTIMATE SUMMER ELECTRONICA FEST RETURNS TO TISNO IN CROATIA THIS JULY 3-10, PROMISING DISCO DREAMERS AND EDM FANS SANDY STAGES, OPEN-AIR DISCOTHEQUES AND BOHEMIAN BEACH RAVES. A MODERN MIX OF HOUSE, GARAGE, ELECTRO, FUNK AND SOUL, LOVE INTERNATIONAL’S 2019 LINE-UP INCLUDES FRESH BEATS FROM ANDREW WEATHERALL, BEN UFO, DJ HARVEY, JOY ORBISON, CRAIG RICHARDS, PARANOID LONDON AND MORE. WANT SOMETHING DIFFERENT? JOIN A BOAT PARTY ON THE ADRIATIC OR SET UP YOUR FESTIVAL HQ IN AN AIRSTREAM TRAILER AMONG TISNO’S OLIVE GROVES. LOVEINTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL.COM

POP IN FOR A VISIT. STAY FOR A JAMESON. BOOK NOW JAMESONWHISKEY.COM

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SAFE SPACE

The Earth’s Moon has inspired many a poet and painter but a free exhibition at the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC, from July 14 until January 5, 2020, shows the influence of early photography on future space missions. To coincide with the 50th anniversary of Apollo 11’s Moon landing on July 20, 1969, comes By the Light of the Silvery Moon: A Century of Lunar Photographs, which traces the orb’s earliest depictions, from velvety photogravures by Charles Le Morvan, left, to NASA’s iconic imagery of Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin taking their first steps on the Moon’s dusty surface. Le Morvan’s photos helped provide a map for scientists and astronauts – and are certainly among the most beautiful portraits ever taken of, in the words of James Joyce in Ulysses, “the tranquil inscrutability of her visage”. nga.gov

CALLING ALL CREATIVES Dublin’s department store behemoth, Brown Thomas, returns with one of the year’s biggest design events, CREATE. From July 2, 30 Irish designers – big names and newcomers – will gather together to showcase their breezy organzas, floaty tulles and layered knits. Most anticipated includes womenswear designer Katie Ann McGuigan, cashmere ace Lucy Nagle, the Skellig-styled silks of Alison Conneely and the launch of Moon + Mellow, an Irish sleepwear brand. New edits across jewellery, millinery and homeware will also be revealed. brownthomas.com

HOT SHOTS WE’RE BACKING PADRAIG HARRINGTON, NATURALLY, AT THE 148TH OPEN CHAMPIONSHIP IN ROYAL PORTRUSH THIS JULY 14-21. MAKING AN HISTORIC RETURN TO NORTHERN IRELAND AFTER 68 YEARS, GOLF’S FINEST INTERNATIONAL PLAYERS WILL FACE OFF ON THE HARRY COLT-DESIGNED DUNLUCE LINKS, ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST SPECTACULAR. THEOPEN.COM

CHARLES LE MORVAN / CARTE PHOTOGRAPHIQUE DE LA LUNE, PLANCHE XXIII.A (PHOTOGRAPHIC CHART OF THE MOON, PLATE XVIII.A), AUGUST 27, 1902 / NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART, WASHINGTON, PEPITA MILMORE MEMORIAL FUND & WILLIAM PAUL TAUB, NATIONAL AERONAUTICS AND SPACE ADMINISTRATION CELEBRATION AFTER APOLLO 11 MADE FLAWLESS SPLASHDOWN, JULY 24, 1969/DAN SOLOMON

2019

EUROPE’S LEADING TOURIST ATTRACTION Ireland has given far more to the world than stereotypes Discover the influence of the men and women who left and the Irish culture they brought with them. Explore stories of adventure, love and tragedy that have shaped Irish history. Don’t just visit Ireland. Understand it.

#EPICmuseum | CHQ, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1

EUROPEAN MUSEUM OF THE YEAR 2018 SHORTLISTED

BEST OF THE WORLD

DIASPORA

SCOTCH MIDST Cork-born Sorcha Carey has always found art magnetic. Her interest was piqued in her teens after moving to Dublin, which led her to studying classics at Cambridge and then obtaining an MA and PhD in history of art. This is Carey's ninth year as director of the Edinburgh Art Festival, the UK’s largest annual event dedicated to visual art. What does Edinburgh the city bring to the festival? It’s central to our festival. Breathtakingly beautiful and easily walkable, it’s impossible not to want to get out and explore. Fortunately, many of our participating galleries are situated very close to Edinburgh’s top destinations. Collective, a major contemporary art space and important Art Festival venue, has recently moved into a historic observatory atop Calton Hill – essential for the best views and beautiful monuments. The Queen’s Gallery is also a chance to drop in to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. And the Talbot Rice Gallery is showing cutting-edge contemporary art at the heart of Edinburgh University’s 18th-century Old College. What is your favourite piece/exhibition from this year’s collection and why? I’m not sure I could pick just one but … I’m very excited to see Edinburgh Printmakers’ first Art Festival exhibition in their new home at Castle Mills. Hanna Tuulikki, who works with music, performance and exquisite drawings,

is presenting a major new work coming out of several years’ research into deer dancing rituals from around the world. Expect something extraordinary.

the Irish? We have a lot in common: Scots’ Gaelic is not a million miles from Irish and we certainly share a love of uisce beatha, even if we might quibble over the spelling …

Where do you find inspiration in the city? I generally go for a walk – Edinburgh has plenty to choose from. Favourites include a climb up Arthur’s Seat, or a gentler, riverside dander along the Water of Leith – and depending on which way I go, finishing either at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art or Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop in Leith (but always with good art and cake).

How often do you visit Ireland? I get home three or four times a year – first stop is always family (my mother and sister), quickly followed by a walk down Dún Laoghaire pier and lunch in 64 Wine, Glasthule. Fallon & Byrne on Suffolk Street is also a favourite.

Is there a favoured Edinburgh watering hole that artists frequent? Joseph Pearce and Paradise Palms are both cosy bars that are popular with the arty crowd – and serve good food if you’re making a night of it. Have you noticed any shared characteristics between the Scots and

Favourite walks include a climb up Arthur's Seat, or a gentler, riverside dander along the Water of Leith ... always finishing with good art and cake

Are there any Irish staples you miss when you’re away? One of the things I miss the most is soda bread. I always come back with my suitcase filled with a stash for the freezer. Dunne + Crescenzi is a family favourite. Sadly, I don’t get back to Cork very much these days, but I still long for the luxury of an entirely vegetarian and utterly delicious menu at Café Paradiso. What is the main takeaway you want people to have after attending the festival? I hope visitors leave feeling inspired and invigorated – the breadth of the programme, with everything from major blockbusters to the latest emerging talent, is such that there is always plenty of scope for new and surprising encounters, even for the most hardened art lovers.

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40 LOVE Discover the restorative journeys taken by some of Dublin’s most significant urban Georgian homeowners – and get an eyeful of their astonishing restorations – at the exhibition, 40 Years – The North Great George’s Street Preservation Society, running at the Irish Georgian Society on South William Street from July 1-7. While there, pick up a copy of 40 Years, a concurrently published commemorative booklet to celebrate the founding of the society – a must-have memento for all admirers of Dublin’s splendid Georgian heritage. The exhibition continues at The James Joyce Centre on the street in question from mid-July onwards. northgreatgeorgesstreet.ie

FUNK, SOUL BROTHERS MOSELEY PARK, BIRMINGHAM, UK, IS THE LEAFY LOCATION FOR THE MOSTLY JAZZ FUNK & SOUL FESTIVAL – CELEBRATING ITS 10TH ANNIVERSARY WEEKEND THIS JULY 12-14. CUE MUSICAL MAESTROS: BRAND NEW HEAVIES, BURT BACHARACH, BBC RADIO 6 MUSIC FUNK STALWART CRAIG CHARLES, SPACEY TEXAN TRIO KHRUANGBIN, RIGHT, AND MORE. FOOD FARE – CARIBBEAN BBQ, INDIAN STREET FOOD – HAS A SIMILARLY COSMOPOLITAN AIR. MOSTLYJAZZ.CO.UK

BAUHAUS PROUD A two-part masterclass with Michelangelo Sabatino, Dean of the College of Architecture at Illinois Institute of Technology, recounts the history of the Bauhaus from its brick-andmortar origins in 1919 Germany to its migration around the globe as a modern design movement. Hear the story told through the new design thinking and architectural innovation that took hold in two places: Cambridge, Massachusetts and Chicago. Both cities became flagships of Bauhaus in America, having dramatic bearing on the direction of American Architecture in the 20th century. July 19 and 26, at the Chicago Architecture Center. architecture.org

THE WORLDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOST MAGNIFICENT CASTLE HOTEL C E L E B R AT I N G 8 0 Y E A R S O F H O S P I TA L I T Y Enter through grand stone gates to discover an 800-year-old castle and former home to the Guinness family. Overlooking Lough Corrib, Ashford Castle is renowned for its warm Irish hospitality, exceptional dining experiences and an unrivalled range of estate activities - all set within the magnificent 350-acre Ashford estate. BEST OF THE BEST IN THE WORLD by Virtuoso

Ashford Castle, Cong, Co. Mayo T: +353 (0) 9495 46003 | E: ashford@ashfordcastle.com ASHFORDCASTLE.COM

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DINNER PICKLE

RESTAURANT, DUBLIN

On bustling Camden Street, Pickle is one hell of a curry house. The chef here, Sunil Ghai, has gone back to his roots, cooking recipes made by his mother when he was growing up. The chef even has a pickle, which if you are lucky enough to taste, was started over 20 years ago. Trying to choose just a couple of things to order off the menu is extremely hard, so I would recommend that you order a few different things and share. Don’t forget the pickles! picklerestaurant.com

BREAKFAST SETS, BERLIN Found in Charlottenburg, SETs is a breakfast lover’s dream. It offers breakfast plates that can be mixed and matched with little combinable glasses filled with fruit, eggs, and yoghurt with granola, or turkey breast, brie and Manchego cheese. The slices of sourdough bread, piled high with ingredients such as beetroot-ginger spread, tuna salad, liver pâté or goats’ cheese and avocado, are among the things that SETs is well known for. Plus, the great coffee they serve will have you all set for a day’s exploring. setsberlin.de

DRINKS DUCK AND WAFFLE, LONDON Situated next to “The Gherkin”, in Heron Tower, Duck and Waffle towers over the city. The experience starts before you even get there, as you take a lift up to the 40th floor where 360° views of London await. The list is made up of inventive cocktails, my favourite being their take on a Negroni with 24-hour slow-dripped coffee for that extra kick in the evening. If you’re feeling a little peckish, they also offer unusual but moreish bar snacks, such as BBQ crispy pigs’ ears and corn ribs covered in sticky sauce. duckandwaffle.com

FOOD FLIGHT Danish-born Majken Bech-Bailey is the front of house manager at Aimsir, the recently launched restaurant at Cliff at Lyons in Co Kildare. From there, she and her Cornish husband, chef Jordan Bailey, plunder strictly seasonal Irish ingredients, their combined prowess honed after working in the Michelin-star restaurants Henne Kirkeby Kro, Maaemo and Sat Bains. cliffatlyons.ie

LUNCH CERVEJARIA RAMIRO, LISBON Located right in the heart of the city, Cervejaria Ramiro is a great place to have an atmospheric and delicious seafood lunch. The tables are set with paper table cloths and lots of napkins to get you ready for dish after dish of buttery, juicy, well-executed fish and shellfish plates. You can even choose a particular lobster from the tank. Booking is highly recommended as it is extremely popular with locals, which is testament to how good the food is. +35 121 885 1024

Leading the Transatlantic Conversation With offices in Dublin, Cork, London, New York, Palo Alto and San Francisco, Matheson is ideally positioned to serve the Irish legal needs of our international clients and our Irish-based clients with an international focus. We represent over half of the world’s 50 largest banks, 6 of the world’s 10 largest asset managers, 7 of the top 10 global technology brands and we have advised the majority of the Fortune 100 companies. Matheson. The law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland. To arrange a meeting to discuss your Irish legal needs, contact any of our office leads below. Dublin Michael Jackson Managing Partner michael.jackson@matheson.com

Cork Gráinne Callanan Partner grainne.callanan@matheson.com

London Sharon Daly Partner

Finance Dublin Awards 2019 Top 20 Most Innovative Law Firm in Europe Financial Times Innovative Lawyer Awards 2018 International Firm in the Americas International Tax Review 2018

sharon.daly@matheson.com

New York

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Alan Keating Partner

Mark O’Sullivan Partner mark.osullivan@matheson.com

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Number One Ranked Irish Funds Law Practice acting for 30% of Irish Domiciled Investment Funds by AUM Monterey Insight Ireland Fund Survey 2018

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UP ON THE ROOF Join chef Maria Solivellas from

acclaimed Balearic restaurant, Ca Na Toneta this summer at her enticing pop-up restaurant, COCA TONETA, in Palma’s historic quarter. Up on the beautiful Sant Francesc hotel’s rooftop terrace, cool down over chilled almond soup with pear and mackerel, or a light salad of lettuce heart with beans, squid noodles and aioli. The star of the show, however, is the dish Solivellas is most famous for: coca. The chef’s delicious iteration of the Majorcan flatbread – made with heirloom xeixa flour and regional olive oil – is topped with interesting, local produce combinations. Think sautéed carrot, fennel and butifarrón, spread over a flavourful base, or the conversation-stopping suckling pig with apricot version – a vivid summer memory that will linger long after the last bite. hotelsantfrancesc.com

GRUB’S UP

Eoin Higgins selects the tastiest newsy nibbles.

NEW WAVE Bucking the downward trend of some of his celeb chef contemporaries, Gordon Ramsay opened the doors to Lucky Cat in London’s swish Mayfair last month. The “vibrant Asian eating house” has already ruffled the feathers of the London fooderati – plus ça change – and replaces Maze, Ramsay’s early 2000s small-plate partnership with Jason Atherton. The new room – like a late-night, chi-chi izakaya in backstreet Osaka – is invitingly atmospheric. The menu is just as seductively crafted. Asian small-plate classics nuzzle mouth-watering Robata-grilled dishes – all designed for sharing socially at the centre of the table. Meanwhile, the Lucky Cat bar celebrates the spirit of Tokyo’s 1930s “kissa clubs” and Shanghai drinking dens with a cocktail list that incorporates timeless, elegant flavours – the barrel-aged Old Fashioned being an evocative, well-executed example. luckycat.co.uk

SMALL PLATES

Delectable Irish morsels from home and away.

AFTERNOON SEA Dublin’s ritzy Cliff Townhouse, in association with its new house tipple – BillecartSalmon Champagne – has just launched a glamorous, seafoodexalting daily afternoon tea. Just the ticket for sunny summer days in the city. From €40pp. clifftownhouse.ie

CLOUD PICKER A new café from the folks behind Dublin’s first micro-roastery has opened up on Pearse Street in Dublin 2. The café admirably apes the coffee aficionados’ ethos of creating the best-tasting coffee in the city with just as superlative food. cloudpickercoffee.ie

DARBY’S LONDON Irish couple Robin and Sarah Gill’s new oyster bar, bakery and grill at Embassy Gardens promises “somewhere for life to be lived to the fullest, with oysters on ice, pints of black, freshly made bread and the best ingredients”. A new London essential. darbys-london.com

DEAD RABBIT This new tome from the wordy whiskey fiends at New York’s Dead Rabbit bar: From Barley to Blarney, a Whiskey Lover’s Guide to Ireland, offers “a portrait of 22 of Ireland’s distilleries, 50 of its renowned pubs and recipes for 12 original cocktails”. deadrabbitnyc.com

HAGSTRAVAGANZA Historic Ballymote, Co Sligo, is the perfect setting for the fifth annual beer festival by ace brewers, White Hag. Hagstravaganza (July 26-27) hosts international brewers, tastings, a pub crawl and kegfuls of beer, glorious beer … thewhitehag.com

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DETOURIST

Madrid’s gritty Embajadores neighbourhood is as hip as it is authentic. Eoin Higgins hops on a scooter for a gander.

ophisticated, richly hewn and profoundly historical, Madrid is set deep in the Spanish cultural conscience. The trendy Embajadores neighbourhood – it often appears on “world’s coolest” lists – at its centre is one of the most lavishly cosmopolitan expressions of cultural life in the capital.

VIEW Hands down, one of Europe’s most impressive 20th-century art museums, the gargantuan Museo Reina Sofía is worth at least a few hours of your time. A bonafide must-see is Picasso’s moving – and sadly increasingly relevant – Guernica, a masterpiece of anti-fascist, anti-war art. The rest of the collection is just as spectacular. museoreinasofia.es

HAGGLE Tchotchkes, gewgaws and knickknacks ... El Rastro is a weekly (Sundays, 9am to 3pm) open-air flea market that has a little bit of everything. Whether it’s one-off garments, vintage watches, or hot handbags, you’ll be in haggler heaven here. Note: as with other crowded urban spaces in Spain, beware the dreaded pickpocket. elrastro.org

THE DETOURIST=

WATCH An art-house (English, Spanish and other langauges) cinema housed in a gorgeous former mansion with a chequered history (it was previously home to a publisher, as well as an X-rated cinema), Sala Equis is currently the city’s film epicentre. It’s also home to a small-plate restaurant, social events, an exhibition space and more. salaequis.es

TASTE Natural wine enthusiasts will find their thirst quenched at Cascorro Bistrot, which offers a heartening selection of biodynamic and organic wines in a cosy room. They also serve delicious small bites, from generously stacked pinchos to gorgeous cheese plates, as well as a menu full of sharable bistro classics. cascorro-bistrot.wine

GRAZE At the sprawling and bustling Mercado de San Fernando you’ll find oodles of things to pique your appetite. You’ll also discover an authentic neighbourhood food market that hasn’t been so refined that it’s lost its gritty essence. Shop, graze, people watch – happily lose an entire morning or afternoon. mercadodesanfernando.es

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HOMEMADE

Hewn in Ireland, these trinkets and investment pieces are worthy of consideration, whether you’re a native or a holidaymaker.

1. FLOOR FUN

Hand-tufted in pure wool at Ceadogán’s Co Wexford studio, this rug, entitled Brainstorm, was created in collaboration with printmaker Deirdre Breen, in a series inpired by the circle in nature and machination. €1,885 at ceadogan.ie.

2. EASY DIY

This Red Creepie Stool is a fusion of old Irish carpentry methods and Japanese joinery. Made by Whackpack Furniture, the best bit is that you selfassemble it with the wooden mallet and wedges provided. Proper easy. €39 at designireland.ie.

3. STAR BUYS

Dublin boutique Om Diva is hosting an Irish Designers in Residence series until August. In July are textile artist Aisling Duffy and Forristal Woodwork; in August, DANU Ceramics, above. Necklace €45 at Drury Street, D2.

4. GIFT GORSE

Sally Caulwell’s Gorse print immortalises Ireland’s ubiquitous yellow shrub. Once farming fodder and a flavour for tea, the curiously coconut-scented gorse also makes for an evergreen artwork. From €28 at irishdesignshop.com.

5. GREY AREA

Hand-cut with a 150-year-old slater’s knife, each of these square coasters from Slated is unique. Naturally ridged textures are backed with felt and given gorgeous packaging. Use as a resting place for drinks or as a butter dish. €26 at slated.ie.

6. ENERGY HIT

Lovern Leather Goods’ barrel bag is superb for sightseeing. Its curved structure and inner envelope pocket eliminate those dark corners that consume purses, phones and keycards. €345 at lovernleathergoods. com.

CELEBRATING THE VERY BEST IN IRISH DESIGN Showcasing thirty Irish designers across ready-to-wear, millinery, jewellery, accessories and homewares. Visit CREATE at Brown Thomas Dublin. 02/07/2019 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 11/08/2019

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SEASIDE: PHOTOGRAPHED by Val Williams and Karen Shepherdson (Thames and Hudson, hbk) The British seaside means lots of things: families, pond-dipping, storms, fish ‘n’ chips, amusement arcades and beach huts. From its 19th-century painterly romantic waves to classic resorts of the 1950s and raves of the 1990s, the seaside has inspired photographers. Williams and Shepherdson take us on an evocative journey, as luminous shell-life in the 1930s evolves to inimitable family snapshots in the 1950s and finally, fab girls on the town in the 2010s. Butlin’s gets a section all to itself, as does the seaside caff and hotel, and there’s a nice juxtaposition between the Daily Herald photos of the mods and rockers’ “disturbances in Clacton-on-Sea” in 1963, Reginald Slader’s Isle of Wight snapshots in 1965 and Stuart Griffiths’ “illegal raving in Brighton, summer 1994”.

FOOD

ONE MORE CROISSANT FOR THE ROAD by Felicity Cloake (Mudlark) The Guardian’s “taster in chief” does her own Tour de France, cycling 2,300km across the country in search of the perfect versions of quintessential French dishes – cassoulet, tarte tatin, poulet au pot. Part travelogue, part food memoir, complete with recipes, this is one for the Francophiles, cyclists, foodies or all three.

NON - FICTION

THREE WOMEN by Lisa Taddeo (Bloomsbury Circus) New York Magazine and Esquire journalist and prizewinning short story writer Taddeo spent eight years listening to three very different women across the US. How she got them to open up is her secret but the result is an acute inquiry into female desire: nonfiction, which reads like fiction and makes no easy assumptions.

SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican promenades through British seaside culture and dips her toes into new literary odysseys. PODCAST

Dublin Story Slam, which developed from The Moth Story Slam, recently celebrated its second birthday. The city’s only open mic competitive storytelling night, it takes place monthly in The Sugar Club on Leeson Street, hosted by broadcaster and comedian Colm O’Regan. Anyone with a true story to tell, inspired by the theme of the month, is invited to share it with the audience. Themes are well chosen: Date Night, Ghosts, Mothers, Home and Away, to trigger funny, poignant and scary accounts. Tickets sell out fast but the podcast is released the first week of each month and features the best recent stories. thedublinstoryslam.com

F E STI VA L STA R S KEVIN BARRY, TRACEY THORN, SEBASTIAN BARRY, KIT DE WAAL, GRAHAM NORTON, ANNE CARSON AND TANA FRENCH ARE JUST SOME OF THE WRITERS APPEARING AT THE WEST CORK LITERARY FESTIVAL THIS JULY 12-19. A STELLAR LINE-UP SPANNING ALL INTERESTS – KIDS, COMEDY, HISTORY, CRIME, POETRY ETC – IN THE SENSATIONAL LANDSCAPE AND FOODIE TOWN OF BANTRY. NEW.WESTCORKMUSIC.IE/LITERARY-FESTIVAL/PROGRAMME

MAIN IMAGE: ISLE OF WIGHT, SHANKLIN BEACH, JULY 1965 © REGINALD SLADER. COURTESY TIM SLADER

FICTION

NIGHT BOAT TO TANGIER by Kevin Barry (Canongate) Two Irish hoodlums past their prime, Maurice of the gammy eye and Charlie of the limp, wait in the Spanish port of Algeciras for Maurice’s daughter, Dilly, due on a boat to, or from, Tangier. The latter-day Vladimir and Estragon interrogate strangers, remember their past and keep waiting. Hilarious, haunting and melancholic – Barry’s third novel and his best.

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Where have been your favourite ﬁlming or rehearsing locations? Rehearsing at the National Theatre on London’s South Bank – that building feels like holy ground. But ﬁlming Patrick Melrose in the South of France was a big treat – a tiny village, hidden pool and fabulous actors hanging

AMAZON

Catastrophe captured the struggle of a long-distance romance ﬁnding roots. How do you think the series helped portray this seemingly impossible situation so successfully? The highs and lows of Sharon and Rob’s relationship was a masterclass in writing. We were rooting for them as a couple because they kept showing us their weaknesses and we all saw ourselves. Four seasons in and no one wanted it to end.

London-based, Cork-born actor Eileen Walsh has shone in emotionally challenging roles, balancing grit and warmth. Known for ﬁlms The Magdalene Sisters and Eden and the TV series Catastrophe, she is equally prominent in theatre. As part of this month’s Galway International Arts Festival (giaf.ie), she What is the best stars in Enda Walsh and Corcadorca’s play, thing about living in Northwest London? The Same, opposite her sister Catherine. Most underrated restaurant? Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecôte in Marylebone. Not really underrated ... but we love it.

As well as yoga, you’re a spinning enthusiast. Where are your favourite neighbourhood studios? In London I do all my classes at Spinn Oﬀ London in West Hampstead. Mairead is epic. All the yoga classes at Sangyé Yoga School in Kensal are amazing too – look out for Cat and Emily.

Madness shot their Our House video in my neighbour’s house! We love our little railway cottage community and the Tube is so convienent.

In your new play The Same, you star alongside your sister (right). What are the pros/cons of working with a sibling? We can take the work home – which is good and bad. We have a shorthand, obviously, so you can push each other further, while trying to avoid the sibling buttons you know you can push.

What are your regular Cork haunts? Yoga Republic on Douglas Street and Miyazaki Japanese on Evergreen Street – my husband Stuart introduced our girls, Tippy and Ethel, to the latter and they’re addicted. My dad used to love The Workshop Café in Ballygarvan, so we drive out there when we miss him, drink all the tea and eat all the cakes. Jacques restaurant, Café Paradiso and the Long Valley pub can’t be missed either. MICHAEL McSWEENEY

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WEEKENDER

THE INSIDE TRACK

Lucy White steps aboard Ireland’s answer to the Orient Express.

t’s not every day that you have a hot shower and a blow-dry on the tracks of Connolly Station, but that’s exactly what happened during my two-night Belmond Grand Hibernian experience. As a daily DART user, I’m usually eyerolling rowdy teenagers, manspreaders and women who give spare seats to their handbags. This time I had a private cabin all to myself and watched inner-city Dublin segue into pastoral scenes from the comfort of my own bed. The VIP treatment starts before you even arrive at Heuston station, from where the gleaming train – Ireland’s longest – departs. Check-in is at the Westbury Hotel, where luggage is swiftly tagged and a beautifully designed, personalised welcome pack is proffered in The Sidecar Bar. A mini bus then takes giddy guests to Heuston, who are greeted at the entrance by a bagpiper and, on the platform, a red carpet and a welcome committee of onboard staff befitting a monarch. Despite all the pomp and ceremony, crew members have a light touch. They greet us each by first names and we’re reunited with our suitcases in preallocated cabins. There are ten cars

in total, each one named after an Irish county; I’m in Fermanagh, in a cosy, elegant twin room with adjacent single beds. There’s ample, ergonomic storage – wardrobe, dressing table, drawers – while photographic prints, Egyptian cotton linen, Irish woollen throws, fresh flowers, Waterford Crystal glassware, Bamford toiletries, slippers, fluffy robes and artisan confectionary remind you that you’re not on Irish Rail any more. Throw in a champagne reception “in Kildare” – aka the Observation Car, from which towns, hamlets and countryside roll past – and let the overindulgence begin. We mosey up to Belfast, where a transit bus takes us to Hillsborough Castle and Gardens for an enlightening guided tour. More a Big House than a castle, it’s the official home of the Secretary of State for Northern Ireland, the royal residence for visiting Windsors and is where the Good Friday Agreement negotiations took place (you will also learn interesting things about pineapples). On day two the train heads to Waterford, from where we go by coach to Kilkenny for a lavish afternoon tea at Butler House before free time to explore the Medieval Mile and beyond.

Given that the distance from Dublin to Belfast and Waterford is considerably shorter than from London to Venice, as per the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, this train is stationary overnight. Mornings, though, start by being gently rocked awake at around 8am, when the train resumes its journey. Dinner (lunch and a brunch) is served in two dining cars, with artfully arranged dishes emerging from a small hatch, beyond which is probably the narrowest kitchen in Ireland. Tables are long and communing with fellow passengers is encouraged. Banter unsurprisingly turns up a notch in the Observation Car for after-dinner drinks and when local trad musicians provide foot-tapping entertainment. The daily commute will never be the same again, the Belmond Grand Hibernian being a fever dream of fine food, fine wine, stunning scenery and, with luck, good company. A carriage made in heaven.

The two-night “Taste of Ireland” tour costs from €3,100pp and includes all meals, drinks, tours and transfers. belmond.com

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ONLY WAY is UP Aisling Bea is best known as a comedian but it’s her acting training that won her a role in the TV crime thriller The Fall and now has her co-starring with Sharon Horgan in a new comedy drama that she also wrote. WORDS MARIE KELLY PHOTOGRAPHS PATRICK BOLGER

n her soon-to-air Channel 4 TV show, This Way Up, Aisling Bea stars opposite Catastrophe creator and close friend Sharon Horgan in a six-part drama described by Channel 4 as “a poignant comedy that shows the journey to happiness is harder for some than others”. While the actor plays Aine, a young woman trying to put her life back together after a “teeny little nervous breakdown”, in reality the 35-year-old Kildare woman is as anchored and focused as she is funny, and she is very funny. On the morning of our photo shoot, she leaps lithely from pithy remark to pin-sharp impersonation in an off-the-cuff routine that reminds me of the 1990s TV show Whose Line is it Anyway?. Bea can joke on her feet, so to speak. The comedian/actor’s own pursuit of happiness seems to be faring far better than Aine’s too. This Way Up marks a milestone for Bea who has wanted her

own television show “always, forever”. It has taken two full years from writing the initial script to completing the final TV edits last month and the comic has found the process intense. “Although I had an amazing team, writing, starring in and being responsible for the final cut has been a lot to carry alone. I feel like I’ve been single-parenting my baby,” she laughs. The performer looks younger than her 35 years. She’s porcelain-pale and petite, which gives her a youthful fragility that is only expunged when she opens her mouth. There’s nothing wispy about her voice or her handshake. She is a powerhouse behind a deceptively delicate façade. Sitting, legs beneath her, on a sofa, wearing velvet tracksuit bottoms, an oversized sweater saying “Choose Love” and with her hair loosely pulled into a top knot, Bea looks nothing like the gesticulating woman I’ve seen command an audience of thousands at London’s Apollo theatre.

The performer admits she has just two gears, quiet and loud. “There’s an intensely social side to me and an intensely solitary one,” she says. “There’s no in between”. She’s also intensely engaged: in politics, sustainable fashion, feminism and the environment. Between the laughs and quips on the day of our shoot are passionate views and heartfelt opinions expressed by her on all of the above. She’s as considered as she is comical. And her Instagram feed reflects this dichotomy; slapstick peppered by serious issues. Bea grew up in rural Co Kildare with her younger sister Sinéad, now a costume designer who worked with the comic on This Way Up after finishing Greta Gerwig’s upcoming Little Women with Saoirse Ronan. Their mother raised them alone: her father took his own life when she was just three years old and she has written movingly about him in the past few years. She speaks of both with immense pride and love. Her

at 15. She admits herself she’s been plugging away for ages. “I’m incredibly fortunate right now. For the past few years I’ve had a lot of eggs in a lot of baskets, and this year all of those eggs started hatching.” This autumn also sees the release of an eight-part comedy drama for Netflix, Living With Yourself, in which she stars opposite Hollywood heavy hitter Paul Rudd who, despite his plethora of box office successes, I’ll always love most for his role as Phoebe’s boyfriend Mike in Friends. Playing Rudd’s on-screen wife will no doubt see her star rise even higher. She brushes aside the notion that she’s already famous. “I’m known if

“I’m known if you know what I do but I’m not famous. People care what I’m doing work-wise but not if I’m buying sticks of celery” mother, a former flat race jockey, is “incredible” and her sister “so talented”. She admits she was always the kid who goofed around. “I recently watched an old recording of me performing in ‘The Cousins Talent Show’ at my granddad’s 80th birthday, 20-odd years ago, and I was almost embarrassed at how similar I still am to the 11-year-old me, and the material wasn’t way off either!” she quips. There’s been nothing overnight about Bea’s success. She’s been acting since she was 17 and her first audition – for a National Lottery advert – was

you know what I do but I’m not famous. People care what I’m doing work-wise but not if I’m buying sticks of celery.” Writing, performing, pitching and gigging for the past 20 years means Bea finds it difficult to “just stop”, so in the spirit of a change being as good as a rest, the day after our interview she’s heading to Rome for five weeks to film what she describes as “a lighthearted romcom, which I think people will like”, called Love. Wedding. Repeat. She co-stars with Sam Claflin, Eleanor Tomlinson, Freida Pinto and Olivia Munn in this remake of the French film Plan de Table and she’s looking forward to the camaraderie that comes with filming on location. “I spent a lot of time on my own writing and then editing This Way Up.” As I write this piece, I check out her Instagram feed and sure enough there’s a group selfie of the team sightseeing together in the Ancient City, or, as Bea puts it, “looking at old things that are broken”.

Despite acting from a young age and studying at LAMDA, before her exquisite performance as nurse Kiera Sheridan in the crime thriller The Fall, Bea was better known for her stand-up and appearances on panel shows such as 8 Out of 10 Cats. “I love pretending to be someone else,” she explains, “and when I took on the The Fall I was so ready to do something new, but I’m mostly at home backstage at a stand-up gig.” She enjoys being at the coalface of performing. “When I’m on stage doing a gig, I’m in control,” she explains. “I listen to when people laugh, I react, I craft, I change my delivery.” She reveals that backstage at stand-up is the least funny place in the world. “Stand-ups overthink everything. Other comedians on the bill will analyse your jokes and give feedback to you after the performance. We all think about our jokes a huge amount.” She continues, “If I was to give an upcoming comedian any advice it would be to book five gigs in one week. If you perform only one in a month, that show will become too important.”

INTERVIEW

The downside of being a comedian, of playing yourself, is that people feel they have ownership of you, she explains. “That’s why it’s so important not to tie your self-esteem to your job or career but to your creativity instead.” She cites her peers in the comedy world – Nish Kumar and David O’Doherty to name two – as her support and her community and says affectionately that she doesn’t know where she’d be without them. This notion of community creeps into our chat continually and is something she speaks strongly about. “Women naturally have a strong sense of community,” she says, “that’s why there was such incredible energy and momentum behind the Repeal movement last year [in 2018 Ireland voted to repeal the 8th amendment of the Constitution, which acknowledged the right to life of the unborn].” Growing up with a hardworking, single mum, a sister and several aunts no doubt fostered this. It’s something she misses when she travels. Bea spends the beginning of the year on the west coast of America for pilot season, auditioning by day and gigging at open mic clubs by night. “There’s always a comedy club where you can wangle your way on stage.” Otherwise she considers LA an odd place. “It’s always the same season so there’s a lot of older actors still wearing Lycra who haven’t realised it’s not 1992 anymore.” She loves New York but, for now, London is her home. “I’ve fulfilled that little Irish dream of owning land,” she laughs. You can take the girl out of Ireland, but … This Way Up will air on Channel 4 in August and Living With Yourself will be on Netflix later this year.

THE LIKES OF AISLING READING “I just finished Why I’m No Longer Talking to White People About Race by Reni Eddo-Lodge – it is so good and as someone who grew up in a pretty much mono-cultural, white country, with zero-to-little experience of racial issues or knowledge of a huge part of the world’s history that just gets whitewashed out of the books … it is such an important read.” WATCHING “I will join a long queue of people to tell you that Derry Girls is amazing. Its success couldn’t happen to a nicer group of people. Boy oh boy, it gives me so much joy.” MUSIC “I am in love with Lizzo right now and pretty much have her songs, like Truth Hurts and Good as Hell playing on a loop. I also love Irish band Maud in Cahoots.” EATING “Imad’s Syrian Kitchen in London’s Soho. It’s a falafel pop-up serving delicious Syrian food with donations going to Help Refugees and the homeless. It also feeds people who cannot afford to eat healthy fresh food. Nice to feel like in the middle of a wealthy area that there is something set up with good intentions, with all profits going to support Young Roots and Brixton Soup Kitchen. It actually finished in May but keep an eye out for their new pop-ups on @imadssyriankitchen on Instagram.”

STYLING BY BRIAN CONWAY, MAKEUP BY NICKI BUGLEWICZ AND HAIR BY NARAD KUTOWAROO. COVER SHOT: ORANGE TOP, ZARA; TROUSERS, EUDON CHOI. PREVIOUS SPREAD: CREAM COAT DRESS, SIMONE ROCHA. THIS PAGE: WHITE SHEER SHIRT, EUDON CHOI. CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE MARYLEBONE HOTEL, LONDON; DOYLECOLLECTION.COM

Jewellery . Giftware . Dining www.newbridgesilverware.com

LESS IS MORE If the EU and local election results are anything to go by, climate change and biodiversity loss are chief concerns among voters. We meet some of Ireland’s future-proofers, whose small steps to sustainability are making a big difference. WORDS GERALDINE CARTON PHOTOGRAPHS MELANIE MULLAN

ith the Irish government recently declaring a “climate and biodiversity emergency”, one question remains: What happens now? At the time of writing, an actionable strategy remains elusive, while, according to the 2018 Climate Action Network Europe report, no single EU country is performing sufficiently to meet the 2015 Paris Agreement targets. That Green parties across Ireland and the EU were sworn in during the May elections is evidence that many of us are serious about sustainability. But what does “sustainability” even mean? The dictionary definition says “the quality of causing little or no damage to the environment and therefore being able to continue for a long time”, ie it’s the coffee-swigging colleague carrying a keep cup,

KIM DREYER

DREYER ARCHITECTURE

Drawing-up the greenest blueprints around, Kim Dreyer is one of Ireland’s most exciting architecture imports. From Denmark, he moved to Co Wicklow from London with his family in the early noughties “in search of a calmer lifestyle”. Not long after, he set up Dreyer Architecture and soon stood out for his sleek, eco-conscious designs that champion the latest, most forward-

the friend opting for plastic-free groceries, the daughter snubbing “fast fashion” for charity shopping, the partner cycling to work. Indeed, as the 3.5 million Instagram posts tagging the #sustainability hashtag suggest, sustainability – just like the rising temperature of our planet – is really hot right now. Fortunately, it’s far more than a buzzword. The people have voted, literally – across Ireland, Europe and party politics. Mindful consumerism is becoming a way of life, with a growing number of bright sparks leading by example in the absence of official strategy. Working in sectors from fashion and architecture to advocacy and education, each of these Irish eco warriors and worriers, mould-breakers – and breadbakers – is committed to sustainability and whose small steps for humankind we can all follow.

thinking technology on the market. Dreyer explains that for a building to be deemed “sustainable”, it requires a few basic traits such as low-to-zero impact construction materials, minimal waste, maximised passive energy solar gain (using the sun’s energy to heat the build), and energy-efficient heating and lighting systems that minimise the building’s carbon footprint. “The minimum requirement is a zero-carbon emission heat source. This means oil and gas boilers are an absolute no-no.” The

only struggle Dreyer sees is convincing clients to go with a new solution, or one that might initially warrant a heftier fee, “but right now is an exciting time as more and more people have sustainability high on their list and are willing to do what it takes to have a sustainable home”. dreyerarchitecture.com One small step for sustainability? I’ve made it my daily goal simply to consume less. If I don’t really need something, I don’t buy it.

PEOPLE

MICHAEL KELLY

GROW IT YOURSELF

“It was a random happening in a supermarket, when I noticed the garlic I was about to buy had come from China, that proved a life-changing epiphany for me ...” On that day, the then-twenty-something Michael Kelly asked himself: why import fruit and vegetables from the other side of the world, when we could very easily grow it ourselves and reduce the cost and carbon footprint in the process? And so, in 2008 Kelly started a Grow it Yourself (GIY) group in Waterford “to inspire and help others to grow food, reconnect to their food, get healthier and live more sustainably”. Encouragingly, the concept immediately took off and this year will see 6,000 food-growing projects blossoming across Ireland and the UK. Indeed, you’d be hard-pushed to find someone more passionate about food growing than Kelly, whose Green HQ in Dunmore East includes a plot-to-plate café, a walled kitchen garden and workshops (from seeding to fermenting to beekeeping). When he’s not working on expanding his GIY empire – and fronting the RTÉ1 TV series Grow Cook Eat, with Green HQ’s head of community development, Karen O’Donohue – you’ll usually find him working on his own vegetable patches at home. “Food-growing lowers my stress levels, gets me out of my head and into my hands. I love being connected to the cycles of nature and knowing where my food comes from. And I love to eat, so having the best of produce at hand is amazing.” giy.ie One small step for sustainability? A re-usable glass cup – I bring it everywhere with me and reckon I’ve avoided using around 200 disposable coffee cups this year as a result.

SARAH MILLER

THE REDISCOVERY CENTRE

What do you get when you mix an environmental scientist, a team of creative eco-enthusiasts and a bunch of old bikes/chairs/clothes in a former boiler house in Dublin’s Ballymun? Odds are you wouldn’t have guessed an award-winning creativity hub that’s flying the flag for community-driven sustainability initiatives in Ireland. And yet, this is precisely what Sarah Miller, CEO of the Rediscovery Centre, began ten years ago. With a PhD in environmental science, she worked on the Great Barrier Reef in Cairns. During this time, she became involved in the circular economy, setting up a reuse and recovery pop-up shop, “which quickly became so popular that we had to put in traffic control”. Its success galvanised her to implement the concept in Ireland and under Miller’s leadership, the centre has won awards for its advocacy within the local community (supporting upskilling and employment initiatives) and hosts regular events, such as Ireland’s first Circular Fashion Conference. Today the centre sets the framework for how communities can encourage greener living by connecting people, ideas, skills and resources in one all-inclusive space. “I love how it brings together people from diverse backgrounds for the same purpose – addressing climate change and supporting sustainable living.” rediscoverycentre.ie One small step for sustainability? I buy local and seasonal produce as much as I possibly can.

Free

Museum

Factory

Lifestyle

Café

Visit our free museum housing a memorable collection of couture design, artefacts and fashion items that once belonged to some of the greatest style icons of modern times including Audrey Hepburn, Princess Diana, Marilyn Monroe & many others. Immerse yourself in Hollywood glamour.

Take a guided tour of the working factory floor and meet the people behind the traditional craft practiced at Newbridge Silverware since 1934. Learn about the time honoured processes and truelife stories at the heart of one of Ireland’s most well-known and treasured brands.

Browse through the complete range of much loved Irish designed products in our stylish showroom. Here you will find all of the collections on offer from our jewellery and giftware to homeware and tableware. Tax free shopping for eligible customers from outside of the EU.

The award winning Café Carleton features freshly prepared local food with vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or a sumptuous afternoon tea in a relaxed, stylish and friendly ambience. Live piano music Monday to Friday mornings.

OF STYLE ICONS

TOUR

Newbridge Silverware, Newbridge, Co. Kildare, Ireland. Only 40 minutes from Dublin. Junction 10/12 on the M7. Open 7 days a week. Free coach and car parking. Groups welcome. Online booking available.

STORE

CARLETON

Visitor Centre www.visitnewbridgesilverware.com

PEOPLE

EOIN CLUSKEY B READ 41

FLOSSIE DONNELLY

B EACH ACTIVIST

At only 12 years old, Flossie Donnelly has been making her mark as an environmental activist and blogger, leading regular beach clean-ups throughout the country and organising fundraisers in an effort to rid our beaches of rubbish. The catalyst for her activism? It all goes back to a family holiday in Thailand, when the 10-year-old Donnelly was horrified by the “crazy amount” of garbage she saw in the sea. Fiercely believing that “marine life shouldn’t suffer because of the actions of us humans”, she decided that urgent action was needed closer to home. Today, Donnelly leads somewhat of a double life, spending half her time as a normal child, trudging through schoolwork and watching The Simpsons, and the other half leading beach clean-ups, speaking at public events and campaigning for government action. With enthusiasm as vast as the ocean itself, it looks like Donnelly’s endeavours aren’t set to dry up any time soon. flossieandthebeachcleaners.com One small step for sustainability? Ban cling film in the house. It can make a huge impact.

They say that “all sorrows are less with bread,” but for wastereducing baker Eoin Cluskey, this only holds true when the bake in question is sustainably made. Cluskey’s lifelong love for the humble loaf began with afternoons spent learning the basics of breadmaking with granny, when he couldn’t even reach the rolling pin. Later, at Ballymaloe Cookery School, he learned the importance of food provenance and waste minimisation, values that can be seen today in every aspect of his award-winning eatery, Bread 41, on Dublin’s Pearse Street. Everything from pastries and jam, to kombucha and pickles, are made on-site and loyal clientele know to get in early “because once the stock is gone, it’s gone”. As far as Cluskey is concerned, sustainability is a “no-brainer” for any bakery. “Working with the grower is vital for food waste reduction and we reduce our carbon footprint by shortening the distance between raw ingredients and our kitchen where at all possible”. Future customers should also know that all takeaway packaging is either recyclable or compostable and those who BYOC/T (Bring Your Own Cup/Tupperware) are likely to be met with a fist pump from the laidback boss man rocking the backwards cap. breadnation.ie One small step for sustainability? Refuse to buy anything wrapped in plastic.

PEOPLE

IRISH VANGUARDS We live at a time when we have 400 per cent more clothes than we did 20 years ago and yet at least 60 per cent of the garments sold annually end up in landfill (and that’s the conservative figure). Fashion is one of the world’s most polluting industries but a growing army of Irish folks is making sustainability accessible and appealing. Follow them on Instagram. Sustainable Fashion Dublin @sustainablefashiondublin A fast-growing group that promotes the cheap and cheerful side of sustainable fashion, it regularly hosts swap shops, charity shop crawls, panel discussions and upcycling workshops throughout Dublin. Jump the Hedges @jumpthehedges Belfast designer Síofra Caherty ingeniously creates colourful, made-tolast bags from reclaimed materials such as truck tarpaulin, aeroplane seats and sailcloth.

EMMA GLEESON

GIVE UP YER AUL TING S

“Decluttering can be either a crash diet or healthy eating long-term solution,” says Emma Gleeson, founder of home decluttering service Give Up Yer Aul Tings and soon-to-be author of sustainable decluttering bible, Stuff Happens. A former hoarder with a masters in history and culture of fashion (from London College of Fashion), it was upon realising the problematic side of continuous consumption that led her to a major overhaul. What sets her apart from the world’s Marie Kondos, however, is that she focuses on sustainability, as opposed to “sparking joy”. “Whilst the crash diet option sees you just clearing things away and not changing your patterns of consumption, my aim is to encourage people to reflect on their consumption patterns and value what they already have, thus minimising their need for further shopping.” Emma also helps clients to dispose of unwanted belongings responsibly, recognising the contribution that the “everything must go” mentality contributes to the ever-rising landfill problem. “I send clothes and homeware to Age Action, old tights to Swedish Stockings, bras to Smalls for All in the UK, tech stuff to Recycle IT. Landfill is always the last resort.” giveupyeraultings.com One small step for sustainability? I’ve taken to curating my wardrobe by putting some of my clothes away for a few months and then taking them out later in the year, so that it feels like I have new things.

Grown @grown_clothing A 100 per cent ethical, sustainable brand that “plants a tree for every tee” sold, Grown produces highquality clothing suited to the more relaxed and outdoorsy types amongst us. Fresh Cuts @freshcutsclothing As Dublin’s only dedicated ethical and sustainable clothing store, this is your one-stop shop for the best selection of men’s and women’s ethical brands on the market.

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FOREST GUMPTION The concept of forest bathing may be of Japanese origin but it can be equally enjoyed in Co Wicklow, the “Garden of Ireland”. WORDS YVONNE GORDON PHOTOGRAPHS KYLE TUNNEY

WICKLOW

“

t’s very calming,” says a fellow walker, as she contemplates the tree in front of her. Green needles are hanging down, almost in mini cascades. It’s a Kashmir cypress and our guide, Megan, tells us it grows in the Himalayas. Apparently, it has a spiritual connection so is planted at temples. I’m feeling calm too – though I suspect this is because we’ve just spent an hour strolling through the National Botanic Gardens at Kilmacurragh in Co Wicklow (botanicgardens.ie), away from phones and screens, totally immersed in nature. We’ve seen monkey puzzle trees from Chile, admired a flower meadow,

Previous pages, left, looking across from the valley toward Ballymoyle Wood and, right, forest bathing guru, Shirley Gleeson. Clockwise from top right, an apple tree in blossom; Ballyknocken’s Catherine Fulvio; sylvan scenes towards Lugnaquilla and Slievemaan.

looked up a giant Californian redwood and marvelled at an old Japanese red cedar. We’ve inhaled a plant’s curry scent, heard melodic birdsong, stepped softly over tree roots and felt the ice-cold trunk of a Chilean myrtle. On a simple tour of the gardens, we’ve used nearly all of our senses to soak up nature. Research has long shown the positive health effects of being in nature and green spaces. In Japan, the practice of “forest bathing” – Shinrin-yoku – first started as a way to reduce stress and counteract the effects of technology and city living. Many studies have proven its numerous benefits, both on physical and mental health. I decide to find out how forest bathing works and what better place than in Wicklow, the “Garden of Ireland” and the home of Ireland’s forestry? It’s a quiet morning at Avondale Forest Park (coillte. ie) when I meet forest bathing expert

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Shirley Gleeson (ecowellnessconsulting. com; see “Smart Tips”, page 60). The 200-hectare estate dates back to the 1770s, and when the state bought the land in 1904, it experimented with the trees that went on to make up the bulk of Ireland’s forest industry. With so many different trees, it’s the perfect place for forest immersion. Gleeson, whose background is in social work and who trained in forest therapy in the USA, tells me that the aim is to slow down and connect to nature. “It’s about getting people to reconnect with the senses and get out of their heads and into their bodies,” she says. “We have to unplug from technology and replug back into nature.” She explains how trees release phytoncides – chemicals that research has shown can help everything from our immune systems to easing depression and anxiety. We start with a gentle stroll and Gleeson asks me to notice what is moving, for example tree branches swaying, to help get into nature’s rhythm. We then stop under a beech tree for some natural meditation. With eyes closed, she tells me to scan my body for any tension to release. Then the focus is on deep breathing. With her words as a guide, I tune into my senses of sound,

WICKLOW

Clockwise from above left, wild lemon balm; plucking pine pollen; Glencullen River, in the heart of Knocksink Wood Nature Reserve; a copper still at Glendalough Distillery; chefs James Kavanagh and Evan Doyle foraging wild garlic in Macreddin Village; raspberry tipple at Wicklow Way Wines; a paddling of ducks at BrookLodge.

touch, smell and even “taste” the fresh air. When I finally open my eyes, I look around as if noticing everything for the first time. As we walk silently through the trees, I take in all the different shapes and colours. I am aware of changing light, of bird songs near and far, of pungent scents and tiny insects in the air. I notice how green the moss is and appreciate the beauty of tiny lichen. Along the way, Gleeson picks wood sorrel leaves, dandelions and nettles, adding them to a flask. Later, we drink the “tea” under a copper beech tree – a ritual to taste the forest and also to close the walk and get back into everyday life. Gleeson adapts the forest bathing to the Irish landscape around Co Wicklow and Ireland’s Ancient East. At Glendalough,

WICKLOW

at Avondale and as we start walking, Kavanagh rips a beech leaf off a tree for me to eat. It tastes like the skin of an apple. “I eat a lot of greens as I’m walking along,” she says. “You get a lot of extra nutrition.” She built up her knowledge from spending time in the forest as a child. “I was eating beech leaves and always looking at plants. When I was a teenager, I learnt the names,” she says. “I realised there’s so much to eat in the hedgerows and nobody knows about it.” Kavanagh picks foods both for taste and for health benefits – she soaks cleavers (also known as goosegrass) to make a lymph-system cleanser, makes cordial from blackberries and ice cream with gorse. This month, there’s meadowsweet in the hedgerows, plus wild blueberries and elderflowers for cordials and champagne. She also forages for the wild botanicals that go into Glendalough Gin, finding unusual flavours. What’s in season constantly changes – flowers this month, fruits and berries in autumn, haws and Douglas fir in winter, and each day’s pickings go straight to the distillery to capture their essence. My last forest experience is whizzing along a trail on an electric bike at Ballinastoe (biking.ie). As well as mountain bike trails, there are guided bike tours (from €80pp) along the mostly flat logging

This month, there’s meadowsweet in the hedgerows, plus wild blueberries and elderflowers for cordials and champagne which is home to a sixth-century monastic settlement, we also acknowledge the ancient Celtic spirituality. At Devil’s Glen, we read the Seamus Heaney poetry carved onto benches. At Knocksink Wood, we explore a wild woodland trail. When I return home, I feel calmer, I am more aware of nature and of the trees near where I live – and am grateful to them for being there. Someone else who enjoys showing people how to appreciate nature’s abundance is Geraldine Kavanagh (wicklowwildfoods.com; see “Smart Tips”, page 60), whose wild food forages help walkers identify wild leaves, flowers, fruits, mushrooms and nuts. We meet

roads. We cover a 15km loop and come out at a viewpoint over Lough Tay. I notice the Wicklow Way runs through here, a 131km waymarked route along the county’s forest and mountain trails, past lakes, valleys and ancient settlements. I look along the trail and think about eight or ten days of pure nature immersion. Next time …

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A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

Book online today Experience a unique landscape and culture by staying in County Clare Co. Clare, Ireland.

Open 8am – 9pm in July & August

T: +353 65 7086141 E: info@cliffsofmoher.ie

United Nations Educational, Scientiﬁc and Cultural Organization

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

www.cliffsofmoher.ie

WICKLOW

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY NATURE An eco country retreat, BrookLodge is surrounded by nature – you might spot hens, ducks or deer on the lawn and food is all certified organic. A full-time forager and an all-natural food pantry keep its Strawberry Tree Restaurant well stocked. Sample dishes on the wildfocused menu include sika venison from the Wicklow mountains, with turnip and pear, or gnocchi with garlic from the local woods. After dinner, try “birch bark booze” from the local trees. There are also bikes for guests and the hotel will prepare picnics for forest walks. For a luxe detox, try the mud chamber experience in The Wells Spa (€60) and hit the outdoor hot tub. B&B from €146. (Macreddin Village, 0402 36 444; brooklodge.com) RUSTIC The Victorian farmhouse of Ballyknocken House & Cookery School oozes country charm and character – from the row of boots-for-borrow to the drawing room’s log fire. Run by chef Catherine Fulvio, the food is unsurprisingly top notch, with chefs using local produce, much of which is picked from the working farm’s kitchen gardens. Learn the tricks of the trade at the cookery school, after which you get to sit down and enjoy what you’ve prepared (half-day classes €140). Guests can also explore Carrick Forest: check out the mountaintop picnic package at €171. B&B from €129. (Glenealy, Ashford, 0404 44 627; ballyknocken.com)

the seasonal menu, with wholesome salads, Irish seafood and meats. Afterwards, stroll in Mount Usher gardens or admire Avoca’s trees, part of the former Jameson estate. (Mount Usher, Ashford, 0404 40116; mountushergardens.ie; Kilmacanoge, 01 274 6900; avoca.com)

DRINK FRUITY Móinéir Wines create small batch, artisan wines, such as its award-winning blackberry, strawberry and raspberry blend made at its Newtownmountkennedy base. Here you can learn how they’re all made, with tours and tastings at €25. (Unit 8, Newtown Business and Enterprise Centre, Newtownmountkennedy, 086 947 7396; wicklowwaywines.ie) BOTANICAL Another local drink not to miss is Wild Botanical Gin, one of four craft gins from Glendalough Distillery. Botanicals from Wicklow are added daily – and summer ingredients include elderflower and wild rose. Get the lowdown on a Meet the Makers tour. (Unit 9 Newtown Business and Enterprise Centre, Newtownmountkennedy; glendaloughdistillery.com)

CRAFT Another tipple harnessing the terroir is craft brewery Wicklow Wolf Brewing Company. The brewery has a sustainable ethos and grows eight varieties of hops on its own four-hectare farm in Roundwood. Book a guided tour of the brewhouse and fermentation room, followed by a tasting, for €15. (Galtrim Park, Bray, 01 567 6993; wicklowwolf.com)

SMART TIPS GUIDED WALKS Half-day forest bathing programmes with Shirley Gleeson of Ecowellness Consulting Ltd start at €80pp or from €130pp for a full day, including transport (ecowellnessconsulting.com). Three-hour Wild Food foraging walks cost €40 and run every spring until autumn (wicklowwildfoods.com). PARK LIFE Avondale Forest Park, the National Botanic Gardens Kilmacurragh, Devil’s Glen, Glendalough and Knocksink Wood are all free to visit. An adult ticket for Powerscourt Gardens (powerscourt. com) is €10.50 and Mount Usher Gardens (mountushergardens.ie) is €8. For more information see visitwicklow.ie and irelandsancienteast.com.

REMOTE Looking to unplug? Take up residence in Wicklow Head Lighthouse, which is surrounded by green fields and magnificent sea views, of course. There are two round double bedrooms, a sitting room and kitchen, all on different floors. Perfect for walks, reading and fresh air. From €624 for two nights (sleeps four). (Dunbur Head, 01 670 4733; irishlandmark.com)

GRAZE & GAZE GARDENS Huge windows at Avoca Garden Café at Mount Usher Gardens and its sister restaurant The Fernhouse at Kilmacanogue look out on nature, the latter overlooking giant ferns. Fresh picks from on-site vegetable gardens feature on

Previous page, clockwise from main pic, Niall Davis from biking.ie, takes a breather above Lough Tay; stitchwort in the herb garden at BrookLodge; young pine cones, ripe for pickling. This page, above, nature’s bounty at the certified organic Strawberry Tree Restaurant.

In Ireland

TWICE asNICE This month, Aer Lingus launches its inaugural service to Minneapolis-St Paul. Forget everything youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve heard about its long winters and instead delight in its sunny disposition and plethora of diversions.

WORDS ANDREW PARKS PHOTOGRAPHS ASHLEY SULLIVAN

MINNEAPOLIS

rince was right: sometimes it snows in April, here in the Arctic heart of Minneapolis. That doesn’t mean you should ignore the iconic singer’s lifelong home – not to mention its next-door neighbour St Paul – the rest of the year. Ask anyone who’s actually visited Minnesota and they’ll tell you the Twin Cities are two of the most underrated travel destinations in the Midwest. “We get overlooked a lot because we’re in flyover country,” says Christina Nguyen, a recent James Beard nominee for Best Chef: Midwest. “There’s Chicago and then there’s the rest of us: Minnedianapolis.” While many people won’t look past that whole endless winter thing, Nguyen began to notice a shift in the national discourse around Minneapolis when it hosted Super Bowl LII last year. That’s when many out-of-towners discovered the dynamic Latin American dishes and fiery Cambodian, Vietnamese and Thai fare at Nguyen’s two rightfully acclaimed restaurants, Hola Arepa (holaarepa.com) and Hai Hai (haihaimpls.com). The latter is located in Northeast Minneapolis, a booming neighbourhood often compared to Brooklyn’s hippest enclaves. Between its carefully designed mini-golf course and carnival-esque ferris wheel, Betty Danger’s Country Club (bettydangers.com) certainly wouldn’t look out of place in Williamsburg. Neither would Northrup King Building (northrupkingbuilding.com) and Casket Arts (casketarts.com), cavernous art complexes that encourage open studio hours on the first Thursday of every month. If you’re not in town then, the Northeast Minneapolis Arts Association (nemaa.org) also offers information on nearby galleries and events. Or you could head straight for several watering holes that have semi-permanent food trucks on site, including Able Seedhouse + Brewery (ablebeer.com) and Sociable Cider Works (sociablecider. com). Depending on the day of the week, you could score a perfectly smooth pub ale and slow-cooked barbecue (Animales;

animalesbarbeque.com) or a dry, hoppedup cider and rarely seen Hmong recipes (Union Kitchen; unionkitchenmn.com) at their respective taprooms. The Twin Cities have been a major hub for the Hmong people – a migratory ethnic group that’s lived throughout Laos, Vietnam and Southern China – since the 1980s. One way to witness its unique culture firsthand is the more than 125 shopping and food stalls at Hmongtown Marketplace (hmongtownmarketplace. com). Wandering its aisles is like stumbling

Previous pages, clockwise from far left, street-side snacks and people-watching aplenty at the laid-back Mexican café Jefe Urban Hacienda; hello Hai Hai; Scandi pastries at FIKA; Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen’s Spoonbridge and Cherry sculpture at Walker Art Center; skyline vibes. This page, above, barflies pending at Hai Hai and, right, fine fare at FIKA.

upon a serious market in Southeast Asia, only slightly less chaotic, and within a tenminute drive of other key St Paul spots. Similar in spirit but easier to navigate if you’re on a tight schedule is Keg and Case (kegandcase.com). The winner of USA Today’s Best New Food Hall poll features everything from an open-fire restaurant that specialises in game meats (In Bloom) to grab-and-go artisans, such as Revival Smoked Meats, Sweet Science Ice Cream, and House of Halva. Another beloved new building in St Paul is Allianz Field (mnufc.com). The Minnesota United stadium has many innovative touches that set it apart from the rest of the Major League Soccer, starting with a standing-room-only section that fits 2,800 screaming fans on a steep 34.8-degree slope. Other seats don’t stray too far – 38 metres max – from the Kentucky bluegrass field, ensuring there isn’t a bad sightline in the house. As for its food and drink options, Top Chef contestant Justin Sutherland helped

MINNEAPOLIS

curate Allianz’s concessions, which lean heavily on local vendors such as Afro Deli (vegetable sambusas), West Indies Soul (spicy beef patties), Kramarczuk’s (lamb merguez sausage), and Sutherland’s own Handsome Hog (a solid pulled pork sandwich, topped with a crunchy, vinegary coleslaw). Should you feel the need to celebrate a United win, Bang Brewing (bangbrewing.com) is unlike any other taproom in the Twin Cities, or, the rest of the country, for that matter. Housed in a custom grain silo and serving a streamlined draught list of strictly organic ales, it’s about as small-batch as beer gets. Show up around sunset on the weekend for dramatic views and the charred-yetchewy Neapolitan-style pies of Northern Fires Pizza (northernfirespizza.com). Craft beer connoisseurs should also sample the experimental styles at Wild Mind Ales (wildmindales.com), which range from sour IPAs to imperial stouts. Or if you prefer cocktails, three pillars

Clockwise from above, slick signage; wheaty goodness at Bang Brewing; a gannet’s-eye view at Keg and Case; pours and plaits at Esker Grove, with bartender Jon Olsen; al fresco at Pracna, Minneapolis’ oldest tavern.

Housed in a custom grain silo and serving a streamlined draught list of strictly organic ales, it’s about as small-batch as beer gets

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MINNEAPOLIS

of Minneapolis’ progressive scene can be crawled downtown: Marvel Bar (marvelbar.com), Constantine (constantinempls.com) and Parlour Bar (parlourbar.com), a buzzy space that also happens to make a best-in-class burger. Of course, there’s more to Minneapolis and St Paul than eating and drinking. Museums wise, the Walker Art Center (walkerart.org) stages world-class exhibitions with a contemporary bent and the American Swedish Institute (asimn.org) works in welcome history lessons like this summer’s blockbuster Vikings survey. Both institutions also have in-house eateries that go well beyond coffee and pastries. Walker’s Esker Grove restaurant features a bold seasonal menu that’ll make you love brunch again, and ASI’s FIKA café sticks to Scandi flavours, with open-faced smörgåsar sandwiches, juniper-spiced Swedish meatballs and fresh-baked cardamom buns. Burning all those calories is easy too, since “The Land of 10,000 Lakes” is full of sprawling parks and lush green spaces. There are so many, in fact, that it can be overwhelming for a first-time visitor. Start with the stunning Minnehaha Falls (minneapolisparks.org), then pick a path along the popular Chain of Lakes or Como Regional Park. The latter also has a pool area, zoo, golf courses and immaculate landscaping, including a gorgeous Japanese garden that was a gift from St Paul’s sister city, Nagasaki. Couple that with a long walk along Gold Medal Park (goldmedalpark.org) and its surrounding area downtown – including St Anthony Falls and the Stone Arch Bridge – for one final look at why Prince never left. Or, as the Purple One himself once said: “I like Hollywood. I just like Minneapolis a little bit better.”

Clockwise from top, Victoria and Sam Campbell, with pooches Patch and Ralph; eye-catching cocktails at Hai Hai; rooster watch at Walker Art Center’s sculpture park. Following page, zesty paraphenalia at Hai Hai.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MINNEAPOLIS-ST PAUL six times per week.

Discover our collection of stylish, boutique hotels in the heart of Dublin city centre and our brand new hotel â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Montâ&#x20AC;? opening in July 2019.

MINNEAPOLIS

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS EAT

SLEEP SOMETHING CLASSY Minneapolis’ downtown revival got the boutique property it deserves in late 2016 when the Hewing Hotel opened its ultraluxe doors. The former warehouse’s 124 rooms feature lots of local touches, from wool Faribault blankets to minibars stocked with Spruce Soda and Tattersall Gin. Don’t forget to bring your swimsuit, either; guests receive complimentary access to a rooftop pool and sauna that costs around $30 otherwise. Rooms from $179. (300 Washington Ave N, +1 651 468 0400; hewinghotel.com) SOMETHING NEW Hotel Minneapolis transformed into the Hotel Emery in April, a jewel in the crown of Marriott’s Autograph Collection that features much more than a fresh coat of paint. Newly renovated rooms go down the Mad Men route – mid-century and minimal – and

dining options include the first downtown location of Spyhouse Coffee Roasters and, Giulia, a Northern Italian restaurant that features handmade pasta, woodfired pizza and ample mozzarella. Rooms from $113. (215 4th Street South, +1 612 340 2000; hotelemery.com) SOMETHING DIFFERENT Irish crooner Daniel O’Donnell filmed an episode of his RTÉ1 series, Daniel and Majella’s B&B Road Trip, at the Covington Inn last autumn, turning its TV cameras on the towboat’s four converted guest rooms and 186-square-metre deck that’s permanently docked along St Paul’s popular Harriet Island park. Downtown is a short drive away, too, making a stay here feel like a riverside getaway. From $170. (100 Harriet Island Road, +1 651 292 1411; covingtoninn.com)

FINE DINING Reservations for Demi are released at noon on the first of the month and often sell out within a few hours, making Gavin Kaysen’s 20-seater the hottest ticket in town. The tasting menu costs $95pp but local critic Rick Nelson insists it’s “superb, from start to finish”, a four-star experience unlike anything else in Minnesota. For those so inclined, a beverage pairing can be added to the experience. (212 N Second Street, +1 612 404 1123; demimpls.com) CASUAL Ann Kim earned the coveted James Beard award for Best Chef: Midwest earlier this year largely thanks to her beloved restaurant Young Joni. While it’s mostly known for creative pizza like a Korean BBQ combo with short ribs, mozzarella, scallions, rocket, and a soy chilli vinaigrette, Kim also slays a daily whole fish special and stellar vegetable sides, such as charred Savoy cabbage and Japanese sweet potatoes. (165 13th Ave NE, +1 612 345 5719; youngjoni.com) BUDGET No Twin Cities trip is complete without a stuffed cheeseburger from Matt’s Bar. Often imitated, never duplicated, the Jucy Lucy is a local icon best served with a basket of fries and cold beer. Be sure to bring cash because credit cards are not accepted and you might end up wanting a second round of griddled greatness. (3500 Cedar Avenue S, +1 612 722 7072; mattsbar.com)

SMART TIP Ubers are expensive in the Twin Cities, so be sure to rent a car for the entire length of your stay. Everything is within a reasonable drive, so you probably won’t even need a full tank of fuel to get through all of it. Day passes are also available through the bike-sharing programme Nice Ride (niceridemn.com) if you want to experience Minneapolis’ spectacular green spaces firsthand.

A German/Irish school with a European culture and spirit for pupils aged 4-18

Open Day

St. Kilian’s Kilian’s German German School Schoolisislocated locatedon onan anextensive expansivecampus campusinin South Dublin. We welcome children of all nationalities, cultures and south religions. learn German German from from Kindergarten Kindergarten (Junior (Junior Infants) religions. Pupils Pupils learn Infants) up up to Leaving Certiﬁcate in a diverse and inclusive environment. to Leaving Certificate in a diverse and inclusive environment. Our Our approach approach combines combines the thebest bestof ofthe theIrish Irishand andGerman Germaneducation. education. Knowledge of German is not a requirement to enrol Knowledge of German is not a requirement to enrolatatSt. St.Kilian’s. Kilian’s.

Come and and visit visitour our school on Saturday 19 6th th October 11am-1pm 10am-12pm to meet our our teachers teachers and students students and andto to see our campus. campus.

St. Kilian’s Deutsche Schule Dublin/Eurocampus Roebuck Road, Clonskeagh, Dublin D14 P7F2 T +353 (0)1 288 3323 E admissions@kilians.com www.kilians.com

TEN OFFBEAT WALKING TOURS Comfy shoes at the ready for Shayna Sappington’s guided walks round-up, some weird, all wonderful.

1 IRELAND HOWTH SAFARI HIKE

The most favoured tour in North Dublin’s Howth features a trek through time – climb up the emerald hillside and learn about ancient Celtic history intertwined with fairy myths and enchanting legends. The Howth Safari Hike’s highlights include Aideen’s grave, a druidic altar and gateway to the Otherworld, as well as panoramic views of the coastline, harbour and Ireland’s Eye. Salty gusts and heathland blooms make the hike well worth it. Even the locals don’t know just how deep the seaside village’s mesmerising past dives, spanning over a whopping 6,000 years. €35 for around four hours. shaneshowthadventures.com

WALKING TOURS

2 ITALY TASTE OF TESTACCIO

In the heart of Rome, embark on the culinary journey of a lifetime – try authentic Italian cuisine from its ancient birthplace. Follow the locals’ lead to fresh farmers markets, where vendors have been setting up shop for generations, and try typical street snacks, such as supplì and fresh meat and cheese boards with prosciutto, salami and buffalo mozzarella. Make your own bruschetta, delve into Roman history and learn the subtle nuances that signify genuine gelato on this exquisitely delicious Taste of Testaccio tour. €79 for four hours and tastings. eatingeurope.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Rome twice daily.

3 USA THE IRISH MOB OF HELL’S KITCHEN

“From the Gophers to the Westies”, The Irish Mob of Hell’s Kitchen tour explores one of New York City’s most infamous, organised crime neighbourhoods. This Irish enclave, now an upscale foodie haven, once bore witness to gruesome gang violence when 19th-century mobsters ran Manhattan. How did the Irish mob rise to power? Find out as you visit their old stomping grounds, where many of their hangouts and houses are still standing – a notoriously enthralling experience. $35 for two hours. hiddennewyorktours.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK three times daily and from Shannon four times per week.

4 PORTUGAL LISBON CITY OF SPIES TOUR

It’s a surprise to most that neutral Portugal was once a hotbed of World War II spies, from both sides of the pond. In fact, a casino just outside Lisbon – in Estoril – is what inspired Ian Fleming’s legendary James Bond thriller Casino Royale. Hear incredible tales of adventure and deception as you haunt famous spy hotels and hangouts, and learn about the most important double agent of them all: Juan Pujol García, codename Garbo. €15 for up to three hours. lisbonwalker.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon 11 times per week and from Cork twice weekly.

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WALKING TOURS

6 AUSTRIA VIENNA UGLY

Eugene Quinn takes tourists and locals alike on probably the most unusual tour in Austria. Instead of the usual visits to Schönbrunn Palace and St Stephen’s Cathedral, Vienna Ugly explores the city’s seamier underbelly. Traversing “ugly” architectural sites, Eugene spews fascinating facts about Vienna’s lesser-known roles in fashion, gentrification, postmodernism, UNESCO and greedy development. This creative adventure aims to close the gap between fantasy and reality, redefining modern depictions of the beautiful and the grotesque. €10 for 2.5 hours. spaceandplace.at

TRA MY NGUYEN HOANG

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna daily.

5 IRELAND THE LOST FASHION HISTORY OF DUBLIN Created by fashion historian Ruth Griffin, this tour follows the fascinating fashion evolution of five unique Dublin districts. Flit around premier shopping and manufacturing hubs on Grafton and South William Street as the sartorially gifted Griffin, above, unravels their intriguing histories. Learn about legendary designers, as well as famous fashion businesses and their iconic makers (from Brown Thomas and Switzers to Crotty’s and Richard Alan). By journey’s end, you’ll have returned to modern day, where the textile industry tells a new fashion story. €20 for two hours. ruaruth.com

7 USA MOST-HIDEOUS MEN IN NYC For those seeking a more modern – and more gender political New York experience – check out E Jean Carroll’s Hideous Men of NYC Walking Tour. Like her new book What Do We Need Men For? (St Martin’s Press), the Elle columnist designed the feminist trek as an exposé of men throughout history. Visit landmark spots where women have spoken out against sexual harassment. Pour scorn on office buildings where powerful, high profile men have hounded and hassled outstanding females. The best part? It is free for women because, as Carroll points out, “women have been underpaid enough already.” ejeancarroll.com

TITANIC

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WALKING TOURS

8 USA MIAMI ART DECO WALKING TOUR Ocean blues and sunshine yellows mark the Art Deco Historic District of South Beach, Miami, Florida. Filled with elegant architectural wonders, the eccentric neighbourhood is a beautiful time warp of 1920s and 1930s design, all curved edges and streamlined symmetry. On the Art Deco Walking Tour, you’ll discover the design movement’s industrial inspiration, marvel at its inventors’ origins and also its fiercely committed preservationists, who saved these glorious buildings from demolition. $30 for two hours, ten minutes. artdecotours.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Miami twice weekly.

9 ENGLAND BULLSHIT LONDON

Wildly inaccurate, hilariously absurd and flamboyantly fun, the Southbank Tour (AKA the “Tourist Trap”) is the best tour in London – says gaudy guide Reuben, decked out in a red, sparkling suit and bow tie. The shenanigans never end as he crosses the city with tourists in tow, reimagining landmarks, cracking jokes about real ones and exploring forlorn thoughts we’ve all had but never said aloud. Ostentation meets sarcasm on this entertaining tour for private groups of between seven and 30 punters, making it the perfect choice for birthdays, hen and stag parties. £10 for two hours. bullshitlondon.com

Express yourself through song and sway your way through the gorgeous streets of “Athens of the North”, Edinburgh. Each member of the group is equipped with headphones to sweat it out and wordlessly break the ice among complete, fellow strangers. Wear comfy shoes and attire and you too might find yourself rave-reviewing this alternative guide to the city. £14.50 for one hour. silentadventures.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to London multiple times daily.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Edinburgh six times daily, from Cork ten times weekly and from Shannon six times weekly.

10 SCOTLAND SILENT DISCO ADVENTURE

2-5 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2

Discover

Dollard House

three ﬂoors of unique food and drink experiences under one roof in the heart of Temple Bar.

A food market with a difference. Bakery, butcher, off licence, cheesemonger, and gourmet deli offering a casual all day menu. www.dollardandco.ie

A beautifully designed restaurant and bar with delicious food and beverage served to you beneath our bespoke glass ceiling. www.robertas.ie

An intimate and relaxed dining setting where steak is the star of the show. Sit back and watch the theatre of our open kitchen at work. www.tomahawsteakhouse.ie

Save 10% on your bill when you dine with us, just mention CARA MAGAZINE upon booking*. call +353 1 533 7777 or go to www.pressup.ie

*T&Cs – Discount available in Roberta’s and Tomahawk Restaurants when CARA MAGAZINE is mentioned upon booking. Not valid with any other oﬀers. Discount not available in Dollard & Co.

NORTHWEST BY MOUTH With its rich history of industrialisation, political activism and academia, Manchester’s evolution is nothing short of fascinating. This month it hosts one of Britain’s best arts festivals, where you can also graze to your stomach’s content. WORDS EMMA STURGESS PHOTOGRAPHS ANNAPURNA MELLOR

very generation, in every city, can expect to look around them and remember when things were different. But in Manchester, a place which does nothing by halves, whether it’s industrial revolutions or cultural explosions, change is the one constant. Even in the two years since the last Manchester International Festival (MIF), neighbourhoods such as Ancoats have been reborn and new ambition established. And in a city with an appetite for evolution, food is crucial. So as MIF (July 4-21; mif.co.uk) kicks off for 2019 and Manchester crackles with creative energy, there’s no better time to eat your way around town. MIF (NB: the organisers would like you to pronounce it “Em Eye Eff”, not “Miff”)

MANCHESTER

was first staged in 2007. It’s a boundlessly innovative event that embeds global talent (this year including Yoko Ono, Janelle Monáe and Idris Elba; see “Essentials” on page 90) in the heart of the city. For foodies and otherwise, Festival Square is the hub. Although the imposing Town Hall on Albert Square is closed for long-term refurbishment, the party carries on out front. Here there’ll be free, world-class live music and a group of bar and restaurant operators whose pop-up presence is a snapshot of Manchester’s food scene. For a rewarding way to explore, follow their tracks back to their permanent homes. The Honest Crust mobile pizza oven is a happy sight wherever it goes, including Festival Square. This sourdough pizza company (trademarks: leopard-spotted

Opening page, clockwise from top left, Kala’s golden pollock goujons; Honest Crust’s cheesy margherita; a caramel scoop of Ginger’s gelato; fresh loaves from Altrincham (AKA Alty) Market and a swatch of street art. Above, Mancunians flock to find Alty’s finest and most scrumptious eats from local vendors.

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MANCHESTER

crusts, intuitively brilliant toppings and zero compromises) grew up south of the city in Altrincham, where it’s one of the main attractions of modern refectory Market House (altrinchammarket.co.uk). Altrincham, or “Alty”, is a tram ride away so the city celebrated the opening of Mackie Mayor (mackiemayor.co.uk), Market House’s sister food court. It occupies a significantly spruced-up 19th-century market building on the far side of the Northern Quarter. Grand and atmospheric, with kids and dogs equally welcome, this double-decker space houses multiple food counters – Honest Crust is just one – where the goods are consistently great. If you see a seat, pounce, order, then wait for a runner to bring you a gorgeously green Honest Crust summer special, a frozen margarita and a taco (maybe chicken and crispy kale?) from newcomer Pico’s Tacos (facebook.com/picostacos), or a flatiron steak from meat specialist Tender Cow (tendercow.co.uk). For pudding, take the short walk to the NQ’s indie shopping palace Afflecks (afflecks.com). Claire Kelsey revolutionised a city’s taste in ice cream when she launched Ginger’s Comfort Emporium (gingerscomfortemporium.com). It started out as an ice cream van, carrying flavours including her signature Chorlton

Grand and atmospheric, with kids and dogs equally welcome, this doubledecker space houses multiple food counters where the goods are consistently great Crack, an addictive peanut butter and salted caramel doozy named after one of Manchester’s most liberal suburbs. Ginger’s will be at Festival Square with a custom-blended MIF special, but it has a permanent home at Afflecks. Here you get all the flavours, somewhere to sit and the chance to buy a nose stud on the way out. Gary Usher, chef-owner of a string of much-loved crowdfunded bistros in the North West, returns to Festival Square for 2019. The dishes he’s cooking this year are takeaway versions of his

greatest restaurant hits. Fragrant truffle and Parmesan chips, a rich lamb braise and beetroot salad with sticky walnuts are among the “food in pots” he’ll be serving – if he can concentrate. “Festival Square is a brilliant thing; there are all these amazing artists around you and it’s free,” he says. “The vibe is so cool, I found it hard working last time because I wanted to get involved with everything going on. I was so mesmerised by [electronica DJ] Afrodeutsche’s set that I asked her to play at the opening of our restaurant in Liverpool – and she did.” This year there’s a big reason to be involved – Usher has just opened Kala (kalabistro.co.uk) on King Street. Bigger and sleeker than his suburban bistros, it’s a great shout for breakfast (try the buttermilk waffle with whipped yoghurt, Yorkshire rhubarb and honey) and

Above, The French’s expert chef, Adam Reid. Opposite page, clockwise from top left, Kala’s savoury braised featherblade; a vibrant general store in the Northern Quarter (NQ); buzzing street art also in the NQ, the worker bee being Manchester’s emblem since 1842; rooftops at sunset; Ginger’s ice cream at Levenshulme Market, geometric arches outside Manchester Central Library; Honest Crust’s scrummy margherita; 20 Stories’ city view and Kala’s crispy pollock goujons.

MANCHESTER

Above, walk along the canal in Castlefield for gorgeous vistas outside the city hubub. Left, a visitor takes in paintings at the Manchester Art Gallery.

British bar snacks (pickled eggs, pigs’ head sausage rolls and duck hearts with green sauce) in the likely event that dinner is booked out. Early signs are that Manchester has taken Kala to its heart – something that Michelin famously refuses to do with any restaurant in town. Officially, there are no stars here. But Manchester does do glamour; new in the sky is 20 Stories (20stories.co.uk) a Champagne-soaked, skyscraping terrace bar and restaurant, where the smart money is on a glass of fizz and a beef and onion pie. And Manchester also does high-end. In the late 1990s, chef Paul Heathcote was courted by city councillors in one of the only two decent restaurants in town. The place he was being encouraged to open, Simply Heathcotes, has been and gone. As he says, enthusing about recent visits to lively beer hall Alberts Schloss (albertsschloss. co.uk) and Scandi food temple Mana (manarestaurant.co.uk), Manchester is now a different world. Heathcote has programmed a series of sell-out Supper Clubs and Lazy Lunches for MIF. He will be cooking at the lunches alongside Mary-Ellen McTague, of Chorlton’s likeably cheese-focused The Creameries (thecreameries.co.uk), and Adam Reid, current occupant of The French (the-french.co.uk). Reid’s carefully calibrated food is a clever take on Northern traditions, with a 1990s guitar soundtrack thrown in. His recent appearance on the food show Great British Menu has renewed interest in his tater’ash, a beef and root veg dish of jawdropping refinement evolved from the meat-and-potato pan hashes of many Northern childhoods. Will it, or any of Manchester’s other foodie jewels, be the same by the time MIF comes around again? In the best possible sense, probably not.

Following page, the cheerful City Arms tavern on Kennedy Street.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MANCHESTER up to five times daily and from Cork up to three times daily.

MANCHESTER

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY APARTHOTEL You can have a room at Whitworth Locke in any colour – as long as it’s pink. The terracotta tones of Manchester’s textile years inspired the stylish refurb of this former cotton mill’s 160 guest suites, on the fringes of the Village. You can self-cater but mixing is encouraged and there’s bags of work and social space downstairs in the atrium bar, hidey lounge corners and the adjoining Foundation Coffee, where breakfast is never less than banging. Rooms from £92. (74 Princess Street, +44 330 320 0690; lockeliving.com) BALLER The glam is in the detail at Cow Hollow, an ex-linen warehouse that’s been lovingly stuffed with sexy finishes, Hopper prints and Hypnos beds by hotelier couple Muj and Amelia Rana. Drinkers are thrust together in the small, shiny cocktail bar, where free prosecco and nibbles are served in the evening, before residents

head out into the surrounding Northern Quarter. Breakfast is bagged and brought to your room, which has Netflix and unlimited bandwidth. Rooms from £99. (57 Newton Street, +44 161 228 7277; cowhollow.co.uk) BRAND NEW Close by Piccadilly, with the canal views you’d expect and the peaceful vibes you might not, Dakota is sleek, box-fresh and distinctly dark – not surprising when you realise Ken McCulloch also founded the consistently low-lit Malmaison chain. Rooms are luxurious but city-appropriate in shades of mushroom and lavender, with private terraces as a tempting upgrade. Fill your boots with Sky Sports and Movies, or in the restaurant with the house monkfish curry with trimmings galore. For those who like to dice with death in style, there’s a cigar humidor and sleek smoking terrace. Rooms from £135. (29 Ducie Street, +44 161 674 9180; dakotahotels.co.uk)

MIF: THE HIGHLIGHTS JULY 4 The festival’s opening event, Bells for Peace, has a cast of thousands led by Yoko Ono. Choirs and bells form part of a one-off soundscape that calls, sings and rings for global unity. The Cathedral Gardens on Corporation Street is close to the Arena, where 22 people died in the 2017 terror attack; it’s a fitting place from which to send a message of peace to the world. JULY 6-21 There’ll be a Lynchian love-in at arts space HOME, in celebration of the director of Mulholland Drive and Twin Peaks. This is the first major UK exhibition of David Lynch’s paintings, drawings and sculpture (called, appropriately, My Head is Disconnected). They’ll run alongside live shows presented by musical collaborator Chrysta Bell, panels, masterclasses and events all on site at Tony Wilson Place. JULY 10-21 Maxine Peake, glory of the Manchester stage, appears as Nico, misunderstood heroine of 1960s counterculture. Inspired by her harrowing album The Marble Index, The Nico Project conjures her world through music by Anna Clyne. The RIBA award-winning Stoller Hall on Hunts Bank is one of Manchester’s newest performance spaces, with a crisp modern aesthetic and great acoustics. JULY 20 BBC Radio 6 Music’s Mary Anne Hobbs gathers five Queens of the Electronic Underground in one place – Whitworth Street West’s O2 Ritz – for an immersive night of exclusive electronica, matched with world-class visuals in a Manchester venue that has seen it all and partied regardless. Anti-sample producer Jlin will take a turn, with Holly Herndon returning to MIF, as well as Aïsha Devi, visual artist MFO, Klara Lewis and Katie Gately. Hobbs will also DJ, with the night running until 2am. JUNE 29 UNTIL JULY 13 Idris Elba and Kwame Kwei-Armah fulfilled long-held plans to collaborate with TREE, a multifaceted exploration of contemporary South Africa. Kaleo (Alfred Enoch) is forced to his parents’ homeland by a family tragedy and finds turbulence as well as healing. It’s performed in the round, placing a standing audience in the centre of things at Upper Campfield, the exclusive, former Victorian covered-market.

RIVER RUN

The LA River has featured in many a Hollywood blockbuster. But rarely has it looked so beautiful, so cinematic, than through the lens of photographer Mathew Scott, whose Concrete River project finds diamonds in the rough. WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS MATHEW SCOTT

y earliest memory of the LA River is of California’s former governor driving on the concrete riverbed with his Harley, trying to save humanity in Terminator 2 … I am not a Los Angeles native so my knowledge of the river was limited to the occasional Hollywood blockbuster – until 2015, when I rented a small workspace in Northeast LA, near the stretch of the river known as the Glendale Narrows. The area looked nothing like the post-industrial wasteland I had imagined. Far from it, trees were breaking through the concrete and wildlife was thriving. The river was long ago paved over to control its unpredictability in a then-rapidly expanding city but, in its neglect, it has fought back, making for one of the most interesting dramas in LA. Some people come to it for recreation, others are drawn to its beauty. Whole communities try to sustain themselves on its austere shores. As I take the short walk from my studio to its embankment, I can feel life slow down. For me, the river is an endless source of inspiration. A subject that by its nature changes every second. With these images, I wanted to show the tension that the city has always had with its natural environment and what we can hope for its future by looking at its past. Follow Mathew Scott’s Concrete River on Instagram @the_concrete_river.

LOS ANGELES

Previous pages, left, a father and daughter explore the river bed, just outside the neighbourhood of Frogtown and, right, some sections of the river are more controlled than others, such as this bend through Studio City. This page, above, birds fly over one of the many man-made structures put in place to direct the natural flow of the river, right, a kid with his tree house located in the section of river known as The Glendale Narrows. Not long after taking his portrait, the tree house was washed away by a winter storm that flooded the whole area.

Above, Miguelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand drawing in the sand. Miguel often comes down to the river to get away and find a bit of peace and quiet. Right, Griffith Park in East LA, just after a thunderstorm that flooded the river.

LOS ANGELES

Above, a kid rests on the bike path near Atwater Village. The path stretches on for a good portion of the 82 kilometres of river that connects Los Angelesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; neighbourhoods.

ONLY 10 MINUTES from Dublin Airport

VISIT DUBLIN’S BEST-KEPT SECRET

Step back into the 18th century and take a guided tour of this impeccably restored Georgian property. Newbridge House is a hidden gem with 370 acres of pastureland, woodland walks, new interactive farm experience, playground and delicious homemade treats served at the Coach House Café. Audio guides for house tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Chinese.

Book online at newbridgehouseandfarm.com

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MAGNIFICENT MALAHIDE CASTLE IS A STONE’S THROW AWAY

Malahide Castle is a magnificent medieval castle just 10 minutes from Dublin Airport. The castle is set on 250 acres of parkland with a story dating back to the 12th Century. Enjoy daily tours of the castle, visit the ornamental walled gardens, fairy trail, exotic butterfly house and dine or shop at the Avoca Café and Retail store. We look forward to your visit. Audio guides for house tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Chinese.

Book online at malahidecastleandgardens.ie

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Find your nearest stockist at www.vogueagencies.ie

HELLO GLAMPERS

Gone are the days when camping meant soggy tents and sweaty sleeping bags. Nicola Brady unzips six of Ireland’s fanciest outdoor lodgings.

1 VIRGINIA PARK LODGE On the grounds of a gorgeous 18th-century hunting estate commandeered by Michelin-starred chef Richard Corrigan, these Woodland Huts in Co Cavan are a dreamy combination of rustic, country style and cosily chic interiors. Inside, you’ll find oak flooring, a table and bench seating that transforms into a comfy double bed with silky-soft bedding, a cute wood burning stove and a slick en suite bathroom with steaming-hot shower. Come morning, you’ll get breakfast delivered right to your door, complete with croissants, smoked salmon, fruit and more. Huts from €180. (Virginia, Co Cavan, 049 854 6100; virginiaparklodge.com)

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2 BALLYVOLANE HOUSE

It should come as no surprise that the glamping options at Ballyvolane, Co Cork, are as quirkily stylish as the house itself. The raised beds in the bell tents and glamping ark come complete with super comfy natural mattresses (stuffed with recycled jeans and organic lamb’s wool), and you’ll even find a hot water bottle tucked under the duvet after turn down service. If you’re after a nightcap, head up to the house for a snifter of the gin made onsite, Bertha’s Revenge, and toddle back in the morning for a full Irish breakfast. Tents from €160. (Castlelyons, Fermoy, Co Cork, 025 36 349; ballyvolanehouse.ie)

3 DROMQUINNA MANOR

Made specifically for Dromquinna Manor by safari experts, these tents are the last word in luxury, with goose-down duvets on beds and veranda armchairs, perfect for a glass of wine as you gaze upon the waters of Kenmare Bay, Co Kerry. For next level opulence, book The Hideaway, a more secluded en suite tent decked out with antique furniture, minibar and killer views. Tents from €160. (Sneem Road, Kenmare, Co Kerry, 064 664 2888; dromquinnamanor.com)

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4 FINN LOUGH Imagine falling asleep under the stars and waking to bird song as dawn breaks ... At Finn Lough, you can do just that. Their Bubble Domes are hidden on the banks of Lough Erne and the transparent walls make you feel like you’re at one with the forest. You’re hardly roughing it either – think plush, four-poster beds, deep bathtubs and heritage armchairs. When you’re up, hit the Element Trail, the forest concept spa where you flit between saunas, salt scrub showers and hot tubs, all right on the lake. Domes from £245. (4 Letter Road, Aghnablaney, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh, 028 683 80360; finnlough.com)

Be bold. Be remarkable. Be diďŹ&#x20AC;erent. Be Ambitious. At NAIS Dublin, your child will develop a global mindset. Creativity, collaboration and resilience will be nurtured. Accepting applications for September 2019

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5 KILLARNEY GLAMPING

If it’s a romantic getaway you’re after, you can’t beat the luxury glamping suites at Killarney Glamping, Co Kerry. With electric blankets, kitten-soft bed linen and a heated patio with views of the river and Killarney’s mountains, this is the perfect place to snuggle up with someone. The clincher? It’s adults only. Suites from €85. (Ballycasheen Road, Ballycasheen, Killarney, Co Kerry, 087 975 0110; killarneyglamping.com)

6 BURREN GLAMPING

You’ll find this cosy vintage horse truck on a traditional farm in the Burren, Co Clare, where rarebreed pigs roam free. Get lucky, and you might even see a gang of adorable piglets scampering around, as well as resident donkeys, cows and chickens, who provide your breakfast eggs. The truck itself is surprisingly spacious, with two double beds and a couch, and a wood-burning stove to keep you toasty. Truck from €120; two-night minimum. (Kilfenora, Co Clare, 065 708 8931; burrenglamping.com)

Find your nearest stockist at www.vogueagencies.ie

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48 HOURS

48 HOURS ON THE

AMALFI COAST Fly into Naples and cruise the intoxicating curves of the Amalfi coastline, says Nicole Trilivas.

DON’T MISS DIVINE The epic hiking trail that extends from Nocelle to Agerola isn’t called the Path of the Gods for nothing. With super views at every turn (and plenty of quaint villages to rest in along the way), this is a real stairway to heaven – or at least to more pasta. Download the hiking app Komoot to stay on track. HARMONIOUS Every summer from July until the end of August, the peaceful town of Ravello is swept up in music. With more than 2,000 performances that span classical to current, the Ravello Concerts by the Ravello Concert Society have been a summer tradition since the 1930s. (Various locations, +39 089 842 4082; ravelloarts.org) SPLASHY Most people don’t realise that the majority of the beaches along the Amalfi Coast are less than dreamy. Instead of hitting the tiny, rocky shoreline, splash out on a private excursion with Blue Star boats and dive into sea coves, mermaidworthy grottos and secret beaches that can’t be reached on foot. (1 Sede Via Del Brigantino, Positano, +39 089 811 888; bluestarpositano.it)

EAT

Clockwise from top, a pretty plateful at Li Galli Restaurant; the staggering coastline; languid living at the Hotel Villa Franca; coastal cruising; walking or hiking the Amalfi Coast rewards with spectacular scenery.

BITTERSWEET Scoop up some icy lemon sorbet served in famous sfusato d’Amalfi lemons at the beachside Brasserie at Covo dei Saraceni. Though the photogenic fruit can be found across the Amalfi Coast, this is one of few places in Positano that serves the treat in real, scooped-out lemons. (5 Via Regina Giovanna, Positano, +39 089 875 400; covodeisaraceni.it) NEIGHBOURLY Praiano is still filled with Italians – not just tourists – and Kasai feels like a neighbourhood secret. Dine on catch of the day and sip on a dewy glass of dry, local Falanghina white wine. (84 Via Umberto I, Praiano, +39 089 874 108) SHOOTING STAR With its glitzy reputation, it’s not easy to stand out on the costiera, but the hilltop Li Galli Restaurant is high above the competition – literally. With jewel-box interiors and mystifying dishes, like a quintet of sweets masquerading as pasta and silver-leafed lemony risotto, Michelin stars are surely in the forecast. (318 Via Pasitea, Positano, +39 089 875 655; villafrancahotel.it)

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SLEEP BYGONE Dating back to 1533, Villa Scarpariello Relais is a rustic seaside castle that makes regal living affordable. Book the Melograno room in the fairytale tower surrounded by fragrant gardens or the dainty pink Moresca room with a stone balcony. There are also apartments sleeping up to six. Rooms from €120. (32 Via Carusiello, Ravello, +39 089 871 996; villascarpariellorelais.it) BELLISSIMA Posing elegantly (but unassumingly) on the quiet side of the enchanting isle of Capri, the refined JK Place Capri is a welcoming, well-dressed bastion of good taste with some of the best service you can find. Expect to be warmly embraced like famiglia. Rooms from €520. (225 Via Provinciale Marina Grande, Capri, +39 081 838 4001; jkcapri.com)

DRINK TART Summery and sour-sweet, the Amalfi Coast is the birthplace of limoncello, the aromatic after-dinner digestif crafted from the peels of Amalfi lemons. See how it comes to fruition and do a tasting at the organic Il Gusto della Costa farm. (24 Via G. Capriglione, Praiano, +39 089 813 048; ilgustodellacosta.it) SMOKY With some of the very best vistas on the coast, Casa Angelina’s Seascape Bar is purpose-built for long summer nights making your way down the cool cocktail list and sophisticated cigar menu. Finish the night off with a Smoky Spritz made with cigar-smoked Aperol, orange bitters and prosecco. (147 Via Capriglione, Praiano, +39 089 813 1333; casangelina.com) EARTHY Overlooking Capri’s famous café-strewn piazzetta next to the majolica clock tower, the pretty and petite Pulalli Wine Bar pours out earthly delights from the Campania region and beyond. Try the multifaceted Taurasi. (4 Piazza Umberto I, Capri, +39 081 837 4108)

SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NAPLES daily.

SKY-HIGH Two words: rooftop pool. With a curious collection of contemporary art that pops off the airy white backdrop, the gallery-like Hotel Villa Franca bucks tradition on the cliffs above the pastel honeycomb of Positano. But it’s the sapphire pool terrace set in the clouds that steals the show. Rooms from €380. (318 Viale Pasitea, Positano, +39 089 875 655; villafrancahotel.it)

Space to land.

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PRAGUE

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REALITY CZECH Thirty years on from the Velvet Revolution, Prague has a stable economy and a low cost of living, says David Creighton.

ack in June 1989, just months before Communism collapsed in Central Europe, Prague was gorgeous but grim. The Communists had stamped out business and even routine tasks, such as obtaining a phone, tested the patience of even the most placid. Fast-forward 30 years from the Velvet Revolution and Prague, as the capital of one of the economically strongest and most stable post-Communist countries, is regularly touted as a wise choice for investment. The Czech economy bounced back after the 2008 crisis, growing three per cent in 2018. In recent years, it has surged ahead: unemployment rates, currently around two per cent, are among the lowest since 1993, when the Czech Republic was established. In boomtown Prague, multinationals have set up in made-over industrial inner suburbs, such as Karlín and Smíchov. They’ve also flocked

to shiny new, steel-and-glass addresses in new outer business districts that are easily accessible thanks to excellent public transport. In addition, the quality of life lures businesspeople. Setting up in one of the world’s most alluring and affordable cities is no great hardship. Then there’s the beer, of course, arguably the world’s best (and certainly among Europe’s cheapest). And while every other city may boast about being at the “Heart of Europe”, the Czech capital can make such a claim with proper justification. This factor, together with all of the above advantages, makes conducting business in Prague a smart move. And there’s no better time to do so.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to Prague four times a week.

GET SMART ARRIVALS Get into town by taxi – try AAA or Prague Airport Transfers. Central Prague is walkable but the public transport network serves more distant destinations and relieves flagging feet. For journey planning and buying tickets, download the Lítačka app. You can also purchase short-term passes with it, saving time and money.

HOT HUBS As a result of Prague’s popularity among location-independent workers, co-working spaces abound. Locus Workspace, (minutes from Wenceslas Square) offers a friendly working environment. A day pass costs €16 and there are longer membership options. (Slezská 857/45, +420 732 501 105; locusworkspace.cz)

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EAT NATURE Tucked away in a forgotten corner of the Old Town, innovative Michelin-starred Field, left, is responding to surging demand from Prague’s foodies for locally sourced, quality ingredients. As its name suggests, the restaurant emphasises nature’s bounty, using seasonal produce and letting the flavours and textures shine through. Tasting menus are also offered, including the lunch tasting menu at €52. (U Milosrdných 12, +420 222 316 999; fieldrestaurant.cz)

CONTEMPORARY Housed in a converted factory, airy Eska reinvigorates Czech trad. Chef Martin Štangl works wonders, bagging Eska a Michelin Bib Gourmand for his talents, so don’t let less-familiar ingredients, such as buckwheat or kohlrabi, deter you. You could also unwind with some brunch, or pop in for a pastry from the celebrated in-house bakery. A three-course dinner costs around €40. (Pernerova 49, +420 731 140 884; eska.ambi.cz)

TRADITIONAL Believe it or not, before Café Imperial changed hands, guests could lob doughnuts – at their own risk and for a fee – at fellow diners. Thankfully, you can now have lunch or coffee without fear of confection-based missiles. The gleaming white-tiled interior provides a wonderful backdrop for sumptuous, old-school morning repasts, including the Imperial Breakfast buffet (€16) and period dramas. (Na Poříčí 15, +420 246 011 440; cafeimperial.cz)

BUSINESS

STEFAN SCHUETZ

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SLEEP MINIMAL Designed by internationally acclaimed Czech-born architect Eva Jiříčná, Hotel Josef showcases her signature glass-and-steel ensembles, notably the slinky staircase. Her simple balcony rooms, offering superb views over the city, vividly contrast with the Baroque garnishes all around. There’s more wow factor at breakfast: the inhouse French artisan bakery creates pastries that Parisians have raved about. Rooms from €141. (Rybná 20, +420 221 700 901; hoteljosef.com)

LOCATION Right in the heart of the Lesser Quarter, Aria Hotel provides a surprisingly peaceful bolthole just minutes from the Charles Bridge. Savour the glorious panoramas from the Rooftop Terrace or from the magnificent cascade of the adjoining Baroque Vrtba Gardens. The symphonic theme extends to a music library and even an in-house music expert. Rooms from €305. (Tržiště 9, +420 225 334 111; ariahotel.net)

RITZY Czechs take pride in their interwar First Czechoslovak Republic; the Alcron Hotel symbolises the optimism of that age. The 1930s designs thankfully escaped a Communist makeover, allowing you to admire lashings of marble and clean lines. Michelinstar Alcron restaurant serves international cuisine in glamorous surroundings. Be Bop Lobby Bar offers signature cocktails. Rooms from €245. (Štěpanská 40, +420 222 820 000; alcronhotel.com)

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Do you have plans for expansion? Yes – our ambition is to be a regional player and we want to expand our business west and south. At the moment, we’re looking for people, which takes time. And in another project, I want to help boost the prestige of farming in the Czech Republic.

CZECH BUCK Tomáš Čupr typifies the new generation of young cosmopolitan entrepreneurs in the Czech Republic, singlehandedly transforming the e-commerce sector in the country. After a stint in the UK, he moved back to Prague in 2010, and by 2012, aged 30, he had already set up two companies. Čupr is most known for three e-commerce businesses, all Czech household names, including rohlik.cz, an online grocery delivery business. You set up damejidlo.cz, a meal order and delivery service, and then rohlik.cz. By coincidence, a food revolution is currently sweeping Prague. How are these companies helping change the way people eat? We want to change how people perceive good food. When people order a steak from rohlik.cz,

they’ll be able to tell the difference from one bought from a supermarket. And, unlike bricks and mortar shops, we can offer a personalised shopping basket, based on previous purchases, avoiding the need to click on different categories. We introduced this service recently.

What are your favourite spots in Prague? I like the Karlín neighbourhood, close to the city centre. It used to be quite grungy but is now one of Prague’s most exciting areas, with lots going on. There’s a real buzz. There are so many restaurants and cafés in Karlín these days, such as Muj šálek kávy (mujsalekkavy.cz), pictured, which does fantastic coffee, or Nejen Bistro (nejenbistro.cz). It’s a good place to relax and enjoy good, affordable food. Away from work, how do you relax? I like spending time with my family, especially my daughter. I also enjoy reading – mainly biographies of successful businessmen – and listening to music.

Fly return to PRAGUE from Dublin or Shannon for 13,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*

*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

BUSINESS INSIDER

How do you view the business environment in Prague and the rest of the Czech Republic? We’re seeing a new generation of younger entrepreneurs who aren’t afraid to try something new and take risks. What’s more, Prague has a big startup scene, which is an incubator for new ideas. Naturally, the capital is a bit ahead of the regions, but things are going in the right direction there too and I’m optimistic overall.

SAN ELMO LODGE, TORCA ROAD, DALKEY, CO. DUBLIN An ultimate coastal retreat of architectural significance and international standard. A stunning maritime villa set amidst wonderfully private walled grounds off Torca Road and high above the sea at Killiney Bay. The setting offers privacy, tranquility and stunning sea views. San Elmo lodge is an exceptionally well designed dePaor home, integrated beautifully into this split level site. Minimalist, geometric and open plan in design, with floor to ceiling glass walls, engineered timber floors and dramatic sea views, an air of calm pervades this cleverly paired back elegant residence. The house nestles in its site amid gardens laid to lawn, surrounded by granite walls, with the natural woodland setting of old pine trees providing shelter and serenity, with the smell of the sea and eucalyptus trees adding to the sensory effect. 353 sq m approx. 0.4 acre approx. Asking Price: â&#x201A;Ź4,650,000 CONTACT:

Rosie Mulvany +353 (0)1 275 1000 +353 (0)86 854 2284 rosie.mulvany@sherryfitz.ie

BER No. 105399364. PSRA No. 002183.

Michael Grehan +353 (0)1 237 6315 +353 (0)86 257 8771 michael.grehan@sherryfitz.ie

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A DAY IN THE LIFE Self-confessed film geek, Charlene Lydon is the programmer for Dublin’s Light House Cinema in Smithfield and Pálás in Galway, where she curates both new releases, live theatre screenings and cult classics. Lydon is also programming and editorial manager for Volta, Element’s video-on-demand platform. 7.15am The alarm app on my phone turns on Marty in the Morning on Lyric FM – always a lovely way to start the day. After a good 45 minutes of snoozing and enjoying the music, I get up, shower, feed my two hungry cats and, if I have time, I’ll share a pot of coffee and chat with my husband. 8.30am I get the Luas to work, which is a good time for reading. I’m co-founder of a monthly Cinema Book Club (we read a book, watch the film and meet for a chat afterwards), so I read a minimum of a book a month. I find it hard to find time to read so I try to make the most of my Luas journey. 9.30am I quite often start the day with a screening of an upcoming film. A huge part of my job is watching films, so I usually do that first thing in the morning – which can sometimes be a strange way to start your work day if it’s a horror movie or something very intense, which it often is. Noon Light House has a fabulous café so I’ll often grab lunch there, especially if I’ve got a meeting, but if I feel like getting out, there are plenty of great places to eat in Smithfield such as Oscars, Oxmantown or Urbanity – or a short stroll away in Stoneybatter. 1pm I spend most afternoons at my desk, booking films, looking after the schedule or at internal meetings. A lot of planning and brainstorming goes into our film seasons and events, and the parties, quizzes and bespoke cocktails that go along with them.

Working across two cinemas – one in Dublin and one in Galway – means a lot of conference calls to make sure we’re all on the same page about scheduling and promoting the films. As I’m usually the person who has seen all the films, I try to communicate what I love about the films we’re opening and why I think our audience will love them. 5pm Before I leave, I try to take a look through my calendar for the following day and write a to-do list. I find this helpful in mentally preparing for the next day. It keeps me a step ahead of myself. 6pm My favourite thing to do in the evenings is grab some dinner with my husband and catch a movie – hopefully one I haven’t seen yet, which is a rare treat. Realistically, my dinner is very often popcorn, which probably isn’t the healthiest, but it comes with the territory I suppose. If I have time for proper dinner, I love Mulligans in Stoneybatter, Loretta’s in Phibsborough or Fish Shop on Benburb Street. 10pm After the film we might top off the evening with a pint in one of our local haunts: Delaney’s, The Glimmer Man, Dice Bar or T O Brennan’s on Dominick Street. Living in Cabra, there are lots of transport options or a short stroll home. 11.30pm Get home, feed the two hungry cats, wind down with a nice cuppa and something fun on telly before bed.

I LOVE VISITIN G …

TORONTO I lived in Toronto for a time so it has a special place in my heart. A buzzing, foodie city with lovely, friendly people and great energy. In the summertime there’s always something to do – festivals, events – while the winter is a different (hibernatory) story.

LOS ANGELES I hate to be a film programmer cliché but I went to LA on my honeymoon and loved it. It’s a city full of character. The weather is beautiful and you never know what’s around the corner. If you embrace the weirdness, LA is a wonderful place to visit.

BARCELONA I’ve been to Barcelona a few times; it’s just a really brilliant place to visit. Beautiful food and wine as well as great architecture, beaches and museums. It’s a fun city to explore and wander – you’ll never get bored in Barcelona.

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ROOM BOOM “

o room at the inn” was a frequent refrain in Dublin, with hotel supply in the city simply not meeting demand. Business travellers and holidaymakers alike had to choose between hostels and guesthouses and plush four- and five-stars, with little in between. There has been a sea change in the past 12 months, however, with this summer alone seeing a plethora of new openings across which motifs abound: plush, jewel-coloured upholstery, open-plan public spaces, Crittall-style windows, globular pendant lamps, mid-century furniture, accents of nouveau Art Deco – Brooklyn meets Shoreditch meets Instagram. First out of the traps was the 146-room The Hendrick (hendrickdublin.ie), near Smithfield Square, which, as Ireland’s “first street art hotel” is aimed largely at millennials. The average executive may not plump for a bunk-bed room … but smart and ergonomic private doubles are conducive for short stays, while the openplan lobby-tuckshop-café-bar, above – as multi-hyphenate as its demographic – is ripe for brainstorming and hot-desking. Moreover, the excellent Dublin dauber James Early has curated said street art – all 270 works of it. Double rooms from €134.

Also open for business is No.9 Rathgar (thekeycollections.com). In the suburb of its namesake, No.9 might not be slap-bang in the city centre, however, St Stephen’s Green, Grand Canal Dock and Ballsbridge are around four kilometres away. This threestorey Georgian townhouse in a residential neighbourhood has 24 contemporary, business-like guest rooms starting at a morethan-reasonable €50. July sees two openings, the first of which is The Mont (themonthotel.ie), which belongs to the O’Callaghan group of The Alex/The Davenport/The Green fame. More a rebrand than brand-new, this 96-room upstart has had a facelift befitting of its spiffy Merrion Square location and includes a gym, a modern Italian restaurant called Speranza and The Sin Bin bar. Rooms from €148. In hot pursuit on Bow Lane East is Marlin Hotel (marlinhotel.ie), the largest proposition in our roundup, with 300 guestrooms. There’s a swift self-service check in and check out, co-working facilities on the ground floor, a fitness centre, outdoor terrace and – my personal favourite – automated blackout blinds so there’s no need to get entangled by swathes of curtains. Rooms from €199.

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN PIC, THE HENDRICK; NO.9 RATHGAR; THE MONT; MARLIN HOTEL

Dublin’s hotel scene is now meeting demand, says Lucy White.

E N J O Y U P T O 25% O F F O U R O N L I N E R A T E S

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Heavily inspired and influenced by Dublin’s rich literary culture and local heritage, Conrad Dublin features 192 beautifully refurbished guest rooms and suites. Join us on a voyage of discovery at Lemuel’s, relax and enjoy a tasty meal in Alfie Byrne’s by Galway Bay Brewery, or take a seat in the stylish surroundings of the Coburg and experience a true brasserie.

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland | Phone +353-1-602 8900 | ConradDublin.com

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#STAYINSPIRED

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6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT

Christian Kinnear is vice president of HubSpot EMEA, a global software developer providing tools for social media marketing, content management, web analytics and search engine optimisation. Its HQ is in Cambridge, Massachusetts, but Kinnear is based in the Dublin oﬃce, where last year he was promoted from MD to VP. Despite his solid experience, he has learned much from his younger colleagues …

1 GET INVOLVED I love that millennials are mission-driven and have a burning need for purpose. They actively use their voice to be a part of the conversation. Social media has incubated this, bringing this drive into the rest of their lives too. Because of this, I’ve learned to lead in a new way, proactively looking for ways to be more collaborative and be more inclusive of all thoughts, experiences and backgrounds. 2 BE UNIQUE AND BE DIFFERENT Millennials are authentic, they stick to their principles and stay true to themselves, sometimes to the frustration of other generations. They don’t want to blend in, they want to celebrate their uniqueness. The truth is that I also want to be unique and special, don’t you? They have taught me to put my unique self out there more.

3 ENJOY THE JOURNEY My generation is default wired to solve for security – having a roof over my family’s head, pension, health cover, etc. These are valid but millennials place life experiences on the level of same importance. It’s a great reminder to enjoy life, to take time oﬀ work, travel and spend time with family. 4 EXPECT MORE Millennials are natural optimists. Having grown up in a recession, they exude a sense of determination, self-conﬁdence and energy that’s truly infectious to be around. They’ve taught me to aim high, assume the best outcome and to appreciate the power of belief. 5 EMBRACE TECHNOLOGY Sometimes unfairly stereotyped as being addicted to social media and online, the

reality is millennials are just connected way better than any generation before. The questions that my generation wrestled to solve are tackled almost instantly by millennials who have near unlimited access to global knowledge. I’m very lucky to be around smart, tech savvy people 24/7 and they’re constantly reminding me that technology can break glass ceilings, allowing us to take on greater challenges and stretch ourselves. 6 BEING A MILLENNIAL ISN’T AN AGE THING, IT’S AN ATTITUDE THING For me the term “millennial” has transcended the simple generational label, it’s actually more of a state of mind and an attitude – and if that’s true and anyone (of any age) can join the millennial club, then sign me up.

CHRISTIAN’S SMART CITY DUBROVNIK DESTINATION Dubrovnik, a magical and enchanting walled city, retains all its charm through a labyrinth of alleys and streets. The local people are friendly, humble, generous and warm. I love to explore and stumble across tiny shops, cafés and restaurants. A must-do is taking in the sunset view from the top of Srd Hill via cable car.

EAT There’s fresh seafood straight from the Adriatic, with a wine selection to die for, at Proto. If you go in summer, I’d recommend its shaded rooftop terrace for lunch and a table on the street for evenings. A little on the pricey end of the scale but worth every cent for that special occasion or special person. esculaprestaurants.com

STAY The Pucić Palace hotel is full of character and centrally located in the heart of the old town. A pedestrian city, the bell boys bring your luggage from the city gate to the hotel by foot. Royal Café is fantastic for those looking to enjoy a coﬀee or ice cream and La Capella restaurant captures the true essence of al fresco dining. thepucicpalace.com

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A place of belonging. We are Rathdown School, a leading day and boarding school located in Dublin for girls aged 3 to 18 years. We offer 7-day on-campus boarding from age 11 and we welcome girls of all academic abilities. Our small size allows for a personal level of care and support. We focus on inspiring teaching to deliver excellent academic results while encouraging intellectual curiosity, critical thinking, creativity and collaboration among our students.

To find out more and arrange to visit Telephone: +353 1 285 3133 Email: registrar@rathdownschool.ie www.rathdownschool.ie

Let us entertain you Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got loads of brilliant movies, TV shows and music for you to enjoy.

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Box office hits Settle in and enjoy some of the latest Hollywood blockbusters.

Our

top film choice

Action

PG13

124 mins

Captain Marvel The journey of Carol Danvers as she becomes one of the universe’s most powerful heroes. EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Adventure

96 mins

A Dog’s Way Home

A dog travels four hundred miles in search of her owner. Stars Ashley Judd, Jonah Hauer-King, Edward James Olmos EN FR DE IT ES

Drama

136 mins

A Star is Born

A musician helps a young singer find fame. Stars Lady Gaga, Bradley Cooper, Sam Elliott EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Action

PG13

143 mins

Aquaman

Action

PG13

114 mins

Bumblebee

Action

PG13

130 mins

Creed II

A war between the worlds of ocean and land is on the horizon. Stars Jason Momoa, Amber Heard, Willem Dafoe

Charlie discovers Bumblebee, battle-scarred and broken. Stars Hailee Steinfeld, Jorge Lendeborg Jr, John Cena

Heavyweight Adonis Creed faces off against Viktor Drago. Stars Michael B Jordan, Tessa Thompson, Sylvester Stallone

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

INFLIGHT

Action

120 mins

Biography

PG13

108 mins

Drama

PG13

129 mins

125

Comedy

PG13

130 mins

Family

130 mins

Destroyer

Fighting with My Family

Glass

Green Book

Mary Poppins Returns

EN FR DE ES

EN ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

A detective reconnects with people to make peace. Stars Nicole Kidman, Sebastian Stan, Tatiana Maslany

Drama

119 mins

The Favourite

Set in 18th century England with Queen Anne at the throne. Stars Olivia Colman, Rachel Weisz, Emma Stone EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

A story of a family who fight a little differently. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Lena Headey, Florence Pugh

Family

120 mins

The Kid Who Would Be King A band of kids embark on a quest to thwart a Medieval menace. Stars Rebecca Ferguson, Louis Ashbourne Serkis EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Tracking a disturbed man who has 24 personalities. Stars James McAvoy, Bruce Willis, Samuel L Jackson

Animation

107 mins

Two men develop a bond while on the journey of a lifetime. Stars Linda Cardellini, Viggo Mortensen, Mahershala Ali

Crime

116 mins

Mary Poppins is back to help the Banks family find joy. Stars Emily Blunt, Lin-Manuel Miranda, Meryl Streep

Comedy

PG13

126 mins

The Lego Movie 2: The Second Part

The Mule

A war veteran turns drug mule for a Mexican cartel. Stars Bradley Cooper, Clint Eastwood, Manny Montana

The relationship between two men with differing backgrounds. Stars Kevin Hart, Bryan Cranston, Nicole Kidman

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE

Lego Duplo invaders threaten to wreck everything. Voiced by Chris Pratt, Elizabeth Banks, Will Arnett

KidZone

The Upside

General

Parental Guidance

PG13

Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13.

Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Biography

132 mins

Vice

Comedy

117 mins

What Men Want

The story of Dick Cheney, an unassuming Washington insider. Stars Christian Bale, Amy Adams, Steve Carell

A woman develops the ability to hear men’s thoughts. Stars Taraji P Henson, Tracy Morgan, Erykah Badu

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

KidZone

104 mins

How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World

KidZone

112 mins

Ralph Breaks The Internet: Wreck-It Ralph 2

Hiccup races against time to find ‘The Hidden World’. Voiced by Jay Baruchel, America Ferrera

Ralph and Vanellope are back to take on the internet. Voiced by John C Reilly, Sarah Silverman, Gal Gadot

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Français

Deutsch

Italiano

Español

Portuguese CCEN Closed Caption English

ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS

English Subtitles

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INFLIGHT

All the classics PG13

Take a trip down movie memory lane with our great selection of classics.

Our animation film package will guarantee fun for all the family with classics including ‘Bambi’, ‘Peter Pan’ and ‘Beauty and the Beast’.

Marvel e Univers

Sit back and enjoy our actionpacked Marvel Studios package. Starring some of your favourite Super Heroes such as ‘Captain America’, ‘Iron Man’ and ‘Thor’.

PG13

96 mins

PG13

108 mins

PG13

104 mins

PG13

140 mins

127 mins

121 mins

115 mins

Chef Stars Jon Favreau, Robert Downey Jr

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE

106 mins

153 mins

Dunkirk Stars Fionn Whitehead, Barry Keoghan

East Side Sushi Stars Diana Elizabeth Torres, Yutaka Takeuchi

Empire of the Sun Stars Christian Bale, John Malkovich

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR

PG13

August: Osage County Stars Meryl Streep

PG13

KidZone

146 mins

AI Artificial Intelligence Stars Haley Joel Osment

118 mins

98 mins

120 mins

Far From the Madding Crowd Stars Carey Mulligan

Horrible Bosses Stars Jason Bateman, Charlie Day

It’s Complicated Stars Meryl Streep, Steve Martin

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

103 mins

PG13

137 mins

117 mins

Jailhouse Rock Stars Elvis Presley, Judy Tyler

Mamma Mia! Stars Meryl Streep, Pierce Brosnan

Mr Church Stars Eddie Murphy, Britt Robertson

Ready Player One Stars Olivia Cooke, Tye Sheridan

Sideways Stars Paul Giamatti, Thomas Haden Church

Singin’ in the Rain Stars Gene Kelly, Debbie Reynolds

The Beatles: Eight Days a Week Stars The Fab Four

The BFG Stars Mark Rylance, Ruby Barnhill

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES IT

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

EN FR IT ES

EN FR DE ES

PG13

135 mins

PG13

154 mins

104 mins

The Bridges of Madison County Stars Clint Eastwood

The Color Purple Stars Danny Glover, Whoopi Goldberg

The Greatest Showman Stars Hugh Jackman

EN FR DE IT ES

EN DE

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

PG13

119 mins

PG13

116 mins

124 mins

PG13

153 mins

The Internship Stars Vince Vaughn, Owen Wilson

The Post Stars Meryl Streep, Tom Hanks

The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel Stars Maggie Smith

West Side Story Stars Natalie Wood, George Chakiris

EN FR DE IT ES

EN DE

100 mins

Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory Stars Gene Wilder EN FR ES

Irish movies and shorts

PG13

9 mins

PG13

10 mins

PG13

6 mins

PG13

12 mins

PG13

86 mins

PG13

3 mins

PG13

97 mins

PG13

8 mins

Almost Home Stars Shannon Hurley, Judy Donovan

Blood of the Woods Stars Emmet Byrne

Connection Interrupted Stars Brendan Quinn

Dead Air Stars Michael Linehan, Jennifer Coote

Rosie Sarah Greene, Moe Dunford

The Barber Shop Stars Barry McEvoy, JordanLee McGrath

The Camino Voyage Stars Glen Hansard, Liam Holden

The Cobbler Stars James Heffernan, Eddie Heffernan

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INFLIGHT

TV time Catch up on an old favourite or discover a new show. Business CNBC Conversation Dame Ellen MacArthur speaks to CNBC’s Tania Bryer CNBC Conversation Karen Tso sits down with Federico Marchetti Secret Lives of the Super Rich Burn rubber in a rare $350K Ferrari Tech Transformers Taking a closer look at the future of technology The Edge What does the future hold when it comes to payment systems? The Score Discovering how the NBA is growing in Asia

Kidzone True Detective, S1, Ep 1–8 1980: Will and Julie, the children of feuding parents Tom and Lucy Purcell, go missing. 2015: Retired detective Wayne Hays (Mahershala Ali), who originally investigated the crime, is asked to look back on the unsolved case with a documentary producer.

Batman: The Brave and the Bold – Battle of the Superheroes! Batman must stop Superman from destroying his reputation Brewster the Rooster Brewster the Rooster and Maggie answer preschoolers’ questions! Giving Tales Classic fairy tales by Hans Christian Andersen Marvel’s Avengers Assemble Black Panther sneaks into the undersea kingdom of Atlantis Paw Patrol Six puppies are led by a 10-year-old boy named Ryder Peek Zoo Adventures to make children laugh, think, and learn Wabbit The hilarious and mischievous Bugs Bunny is back

Laugh out loud

Derry Girls, S1, Ep 1–6 A perfectly curated cast and raw writing drive ‘Derry Girls’ dark humour as we follow Erin, Orla, Clare, Michelle and James through teen life in 1990s Northern Ireland. ‘Derry Girls’ breaks new ground by tackling a difficult period in Northern Ireland’s history with comedic aplomb.

Bridget & Eamon An unhappily married 1980s Irish couple Derry Girls The life of 16-year-old girls during The Troubles It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia Five friends run an Irish bar in Philadelphia Modern Family Three families face trials and tribulations in comedic ways Silicon Valley An engineer tries to build his own company The Big Bang Theory The lives of a group of brilliant scientists The Middle The daily mishaps of a semi-dysfunctional family The Young Offenders Drama about two lovable rogues from Cork, Conor and Jock

Learn & discover

Sports

Explorer Phil Keoghan goes to an active volcano Genius by Stephen Hawking Professor Stephen Hawking challenges three ordinary people Great Lighthouses of Ireland The story of Ireland’s lighthouses and their importance Healthy Appetite Ireland’s top chefs create healthy versions of their dishes Man vs Puma Boone Smith gets up close and personal with pumas Martian Mega Rover Examining the journey of NASA’s Mars rover My Trans Life A look at the lives of five young transgender people Orla Tinsley: Warrior The life of Orla Tinsley The Irish Revolution The story of the Irish War of Independence Whiskey Business The Teeling Brothers seek to maintain family tradition

Dream Teams There are World Cup heroes galore in Germany’s Dream Team Homage Paying respects to the greats of the game National Icons An elite encounter between Ryan Giggs and Gareth Bale Tennis Stars Step inside the colourful world of tennis superstars The Challenge Learn why competitive Alpine skiing is an extreme sport The Shortlist The ultimate sports count down series

Music & arts Building Arnold Schwarzenegger What lies behind Arnold Schwarzenegger’s success story? Classic Albums: Queen – A Night At The Opera Behind the scenes of an LP Kygo: Live at the Hollywood Bowl Join Kygo as he prepares for a huge show in Hollywood Oceans Apart: Art and the Pacific with James Fox James Fox explores Southwest Pacific culture Seine Sessions Seine Sessions invites talented artists to jam Videofashion Designers Exploring the French house of Chanel

Real life America’s Wild Frontier America’s heartland, shaped by three rivers Cook, Eat, Burn Donal Skehan prepares healthy meals Donal’s Meals in Minutes Donal Skehan’s cooking hacks Greatest Gardens The best private gardens in Northern Ireland It’s a Park’s Life Behind-thescenes access to Phoenix Park Making It Rainbows, taco trucks and spaceships Monster Croc Wrangler Matt Wright responds to a call about a legendary monster croc Tracks and Trails Anna Geary, former Cork captain, explores the River Bann Travel Man Richard takes comedian Rhod Gilbert on a tour of Miami Vogue Williams Investigates Vogue shines a light on a variety of online issues

Viral 101 Facts 101 Facts is a listicle channel with a twist Alltime 10s Alltime10s is here to tell you 10 FBI Techniques HelloItsAmy Videos from British YouTuber Amie Johnson jacksepticeye Videos from Irish gaming YouTuber jacksepticeye TheMakeupChair Sinéad Cady is an Irish MUA who runs TheMakeupChair TingTing ASMR Videos to help you relax and sleep

Well being Chasing Longevity Investigating the factors impacting longevity Chasing Sleep A medical series examining sleeping habits Style for Women Learn the secrets of style with this series of shorts Supershoppers The scoop on the biggest brands and retailers The Food Files Exploring the health benefits and risks of our favourite foods You Can Do Better Imparting tips that every adult should know

Wish you were here Introducing Austria A Lonely Planet Guide Introducing Paris A Lonely Planet Guide Introducing Singapore A Lonely Planet Guide Introducing Washington DC A Lonely Planet Guide Just Back from Amsterdam and Beyond Lonely Planet’s Amanda McAdams brings tips from the Netherlands Why Londoners Love Gin The story of Londoners’ penchant for Mother's Ruin

Fรกilte Approved

Pub

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INFLIGHT

Binge watching Because there’s no better time for a binge watch. Take a look at our latest boxsets.

Doctor Who Season 11 PG Throughout this series the Doctor and the gang embark on exciting adventures throughout space and time. Among their travels, they visit Alabama in 1955, meeting Rosa Parks, go to Punjab in the year 1947; and to Lancashire in 1612, getting involved in a witch trial.

Game of Thrones Season 1 R

The Handmaid’s Tale Season 2 R

Experience the first season of this visionary HBO series set in a mythical world whose inhabitants vie for control of the Iron Throne. But in a land where seasons can last a lifetime, winter is coming.

The Emmy-winning drama series returns with a second season shaped by Offred’s pregnancy and her ongoing fight to free her future child from the dystopian horrors of Gilead.

Love/Hate Season 1 R

The Marvelous Mrs Maisel Season 1 PG13

The story of an organised crime scene of Dublin is revealed, centred on Darren, who wants to stay out of trouble but ends up returning to his old habits and his old gang.

Miriam ‘Midge’ Maisel has everything she’s ever wanted – the perfect husband, two kids, and an elegant Upper West Side apartment. But her perfect life suddenly takes an unexpected turn forever.

Supernatural Season 13 PG13

The Sinner Season 2 R

Lucifer returns with surprising news: the devil is expecting a child. Now, Sam and Dean must tackle this complex situation, dealing with a creature of extraordinary powers.

Detective Harry Ambrose goes back to his hometown to investigate the murder of a couple by their 11-year-old son. As he tries to figure out why, it becomes clear that the town is hiding some secrets.

The Flash Season 4 PG13 With The Flash voluntarily in prison, Iris leads a discouraged Team Flash in protecting Central City. However, a new villain threatens to destroy the city if the Flash doesn’t fight him.

True Detective Season 3 R Retired detective Wayne Hays, who originally investigated a crime, is asked to look back on the twists of the unsolved case with a true-crime documentary producer.

lunch in

st y l e from

€6.95

s destination for Dublin’

delicious

early bird

2 courses from

€25.95

Just a hop, skip and a jump from Grafton Street

The restaurant at Fallon & Byrne is housed upstairs, where the light streams through tall windows into one of the city’s most handsome rooms. The season’s good stuff from land and sea is cooked with gentle respect for excellent ingredients. All served by cheerful sorts in a buzzy, relaxed atmosphere.

11-17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 • fallonandbyrne.com • +353 1 472 1000 • restaurant@fallonandbyrne.com

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal

manufactured before your eyes Guided Factory Tours Daily

C: +353 (0) 51 317000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com W: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

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INFLIGHT

Audio Relax to your favourite tunes, make a playlist or delve into a new podcast.

Classical

Kidzone

The Blue of the Night RTÉ lyric fm Sound Out Ian McGlynn, RTÉ Lyric fm

CAKE Culture and Arts for Kids and Everyone

Easy listening An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels

Indie Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

Irish Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists Sinéad ar Bord Traditional and contemporary tracks in the Irish language

Pop Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs Gold in the Sky Karl Tsigdinos, RTÉ Gold Late Date RTÉ Radio 1’s Late Date with Cathal Murray The Hotmix Rebecca Shekleton, 98FM Tracy Clifford RTÉ 2FM

Rock Marty Miller Radio Nova

Talk Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One We offer two documentaries on this flight. The first tells the story of Van Morrison’s seminal album from 1968, ‘Astral Weeks’; the second, of Kildare man Michael Roe, who was one of the fastest racing car drivers in the world during the 1980s.

Lennon Stella YouTube sensation Lennon Stella has arrived with her debut EP titled ‘Love, Me’, a collection of emotionally intelligent songs bundled together in bubbly pop wrapping. Tracks such as ‘Fortress’ excellently display Stella’s husky vocals while also providing a sense of empowerment.

LCD Soundsystem ‘Electric Lady Sessions’ highlights the long-standing chemistry between this hugely talented band of musicians, as steered by James Murphy. His production sounds exceptional, with tracks including ‘Tonite’ and ‘Call the Police’ capturing the ensemble's wizardry.

Podcast Erin’s Isle A Castle, A Manor House and Wool Erin’s Isle Yoga, Weaving and the Flock on the Dock Erin’s Isle Magnificent Machines and Talking Donkeys Erin’s Isle Now We’re Cookin’ Erin’s Isle Galway Cathedral and Michael Vignoles

Podcast: Erin’s Isle Featuring a series of podcasts about Ireland. Learn about the country’s ageless crafts and meet its lovely people.

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Backstreet Boys Backstreet's back, alright! Even though they’ve been around since 1993, ‘DNA’ is only their tenth studio album and a continuation of their impressive vocal gymnastics over a backdrop of R&B, country and funk grooves.

All-time favourites

Country

Jazz

Pop

KidZone

Bill Withers +‘Justments

Dolly Parton Dumplin’ Kane Brown Experiment Mitchell Tenpenny Telling All My Secrets Pistol Annies Interstate Gospel Ryan Hurd To a T Ward Thomas Restless Mindseat

Branford Marsalis Quartet The Secret Between the Shadow and the Soul Charles Mingus Columbia Jazz Profile Chet Baker She Was Too Good to Me Rebekka Bakken Things You Leave Behind Thelonious Monk Underground Various Artists Classic Branford Marsalis

Backstreet Boys DNA Lennon Stella Love, Me Little Mix LM5 Olly Murs You Know I Know Tom Odell Jubilee Road Zayn Icarus Falls

Charles Grean The Unicorn and Other Favorites for Growing Boys and Girls Charles Grean Songs from Walt Disney's ‘Jungle Book’ Dora The Explorer We Did It! Dora’s Greatest Hits Spongebob Squarepants Spongebob’s Greatest Hits The Backyardigans The Backyardigans The Make Believe Players Little Red Riding Hood and Other Best-Loved Fairytales

Bob Dylan The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan Leonard Cohen Songs of Love and Hate Mariah Carey Mariah Carey Robert Johnson King of the Delta Blues Singers The Five Stairsteps The First Family of Soul: The Best of the Five Stairsteps

Alternative First Aid Kit Tender Offerings Kasabian Empire LCD Soundsystem Electric Lady Sessions St Lucia Hyperion The Neighbourhood The Neighbourhood Winnetka Bowling League Winnetka Bowling League

Classical Igor Levit Life Lang Lang Piano Magic Olga Peretyatko Mozart+ Roman Rofalski The Kapustin Project Teodor Currentzis Mahler: Symphony No 6 The Piano Guys Limitless

Electro Alan Walker Different World Groove Armada Groove Armada Greatest Hits LCD Soundsystem American Dream Lost Frequencies Less is More Saint Etienne Smash The System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Sick Boy

Irish Christy Moore Listen Damien Dempsey Union Kodaline Politics of Living Shane Hennessey Marrakech Triona Warrior Van Morrison The Healing Game

Metal Arch Enemy Covered in Blood At The Gates To Drink from the Night Itself Krisiun Scourge of the Enthroned Ozzy Osbourne No More Tears In Flames Come Clarity Unearth Extinction(S)

Opera Anita Rachvelishvili Anita Christian Gerhaher Frage Howard Arman Rossini: Stabat Mater Maarten Engeltjes Forgotten Arias Pretty Yende Dreams Regula Mühlemann Cleopatra – Baroque Arias

R ’n’ B Earth, Wind & Fire Powerlight HER I Used to Know Her: Part 2 Khalid Suncity Mariah Carey Caution Moss Kena One + One Nao Saturn

Rock Bring Me The Horizon Amo Bruce Springsteen Springsteen on Broadway Nothing But Thieves What Did You Think When You Made Me This Way? The Unlikely Candidates Danger to Myself The Vaccines Combat Sports Velvet Revolver Contraband

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INFLIGHT

Your comfort and safety Your comfort and safety is our number one priority at all times. Our crew are on hand to look after you and any requirements you may have during your flight. We do ask that we have your attention during our safety announcements. Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs. Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat with our cabin crew. Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

We ask for your attention during the safety demonstration by our cabin crew before take-off. We also recommend that you familiarise yourself with the safety card in the seat pocket in front of you.

We have a strict no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. You cannot smoke in any part of the cabin.

General safety tips for your flight today • Do pay attention to any instructions given to you by our cabin crew. • Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment. • It is illegal to consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest, including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique. • Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

Guest with wheelchair requirements

Assistance contact details

• Any behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

If you or a guest you’re flying with requires a wheelchair to reach or depart the plane, we’re here to help.

specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Use of photography on board today

Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays

• You’re very welcome to take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

Simply get in touch with us at least 48 hours in advance of your trip, let us know your booking reference number and we’ll take care of this for you.

UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

However: • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board. • Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

- Traditional Irish Music, Blues, Soul & Ballads 7 Days a week - Over 30 Independent Irish Craft Beer Rotational Taps & a Large Selection of Irish Craft Whiskey & Gin - Traditional Irish Bar Food Menu with the award winning Seafood Restaurant Catch 22 on the First Floor - Live Sports & Free Wiﬁ - Large outside Terrace to watch Dublin pass by - Only 50 yards from Grafton Street & Stephens Green 32 Clarendon Street, Dublin 2

A part of the Brú Hospitality Group

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INFLIGHT

Your comfort and safety Your portable electronic devices You’re very welcome to use portable electronic equipment on this flight, but to help keep you safe we ask that you follow our guidelines below.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, minidisk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before take-off. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Switch your device to flight mode or the flight safe setting during taxi, take-off and landing. If you’d like to use your phone during your flight, switch it to flight safe mode. If your device doesn’t have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing, when the cabin crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are welcome to use your phone – provided it’s within easy reach. It’s important that you stay seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew when we land.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

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INFLIGHT

Flight connections Dublin and London Heathrow Airports Flight connections at Dublin Airport

Flight connections at T2 London Heathrow On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

YES

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

All other destinations

USA

Follow signs for US Preclearance

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and ﬂight status

Which terminal are you flying from? For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Where are you ﬂying to today?

Are your bags checked through to your ﬁnal destination?

Passport Control and Security Screening

Geataí Gates

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security. Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

101-335

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Gate Information Screens

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

Departure gate Enjoy free Wi-Fi in Dublin Airport

Historic O’Neill’s Pub & Kitchen

FAMOUS MOLLY MALONE STATUE OPPOSITE O’’NEILL O’NEILL’S

Conveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. • Traditional Irish Music and Dancers 7 nights-a-week, No Charge • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts • HD TV Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games

• Heated Roof Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area with TV Screens so you wont miss the winning goal • Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

For over 175 years everyone has enjoyed a warm Irish Welcome in The Temple Bar.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

2016 winner

2016 2017 winner

Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland

Opposing fans enjoying the game on one of O’Neill’s big screens

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656. www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm / Fri: 8.00am-12.30am / Sat: 8.00am-12.30am / Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

2018 2017 winner

Lovers of whiskey have enjoyed Irelands largest whiskey collection, complimented with live Irish music sessions daily at the friendliest spot in Dublin.

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INFLIGHT

Explore the world with us

Anchorage Juneau

Edmonton Ketchikan

Saskatoon

Vanc Bel

Victoria

Calgary

Seattle

Regina

Portland

Vancouver

Winnipeg

Eugene

Bellingham

Victoria

Wenatchee

Seattle

Thunder Bay

Kalispell Spokane Pullman

Pasco

Great Falls

Quebec Fargo

Walla Walla

Yakima

Missoula

Belgrade

Portland

Billings

San Jose

Traverse Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Sacramento

Ottawa

Boise

Medford Omaha

Reno

Kansas City

Fresno

Cleveland

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Oklahoma City

Tucson

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

San Antonio

Houston

Newark

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis

Boston Hyannis

New York JFK

Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

Philadelphia

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Charlotte Columbia

Charleston

El Paso Austin

Providence

Washington (National)

Lexington

Little Rock Phoenix

Pittsburgh

Washington (Dulles)

Nashville

Tulsa

Hartford

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore Cincinnati

Portland ME

Albany

Rochester

Dayton

Indianapolis

Springﬁeld Las Vegas

Buffalo

Fort Wayne Akron Canton

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Syracuse

Detroit

St Louis

Oakland

Halifax

Burlington

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Chicago

Des Moines

Denver

Moncton Fredericton

Montreal

Minneapolis–St Paul

Redmond Eugene

Santa Rosa

Duluth

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Honolulu Kahului

Honolulu Kahului

Key West

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

INFLIGHT

We fly to more than 100 destinations across the US, Canada, Europe, the UK and Ireland. We’ve also got great partnerships with JetBlue, British Airways and many more airlines to connect you to even more destinations. Where’s next on your travel wishlist?

143

Save time with US Preclearance You’ll clear US immigration in Dublin or Shannon Airport before you board your flight with us to the US. That means arriving in the US as a domestic passenger and avoiding those immigration queues.

Aer Lingus European and North American network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

St. John’s

London Heathrow

Berlin

London City

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg Amsterdam

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Southampton

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante Malaga

Athens Catania

Faro

Lanzarote

Tenerife

Fuerteventura

Gran Canaria

Tenerife

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Gran Canaria

Route map correct at time of print. Destinations and schedules subject to change.

Izmir

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INFLIGHT

Connections to Middle East & Australasia

Dublin

London Heathrow

Dubai Abu Dhabi

Sydney

Melbourne

You can book flights from Dublin to the Middle East and Australia at aerlingus.com with our codeshare partners, British Airways and Etihad Airways.

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

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For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

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INFLIGHT

Let’s get you connected Keep chatting, sharing and discovering Connect to our inﬂight Wi-Fi 1 Turn on your device and connect to Aer_Lingus_WiFi on our A330 aircraft

2 Launch your browser, click ‘Buy Internet Access’ and purchase a plan Choose from the following plans

AerSocial €6.95 | $7.95 Up to 50MB

AerSurf €13.95 | $15.95 Up to 120MB The smart choice

AerMax €29.95 | $32.95 Up to 270MB

3 Enter a username and password and start browsing A330 aircraft only.

Connect to our Mobile Network 1 Turn on your device and switch off ﬂight-safe mode If the Aeromobile Network doesn’t connect straight away, select it via your Network settings

2 Once you’re connected, you’ll receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile

MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DAWSON STREET DUBLIN 2

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Welcome to your world -class airline Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re so proud of our 4-star Skytrax rating. Being celebrated on the world stage for our consistent quality and excellence in guest experience never gets old. We hope you enjoy your ďŹ&#x201A;ight with us today.

See the city like a local. The DoDublin Card includes : • • • • • •

Direct Airlink Transfer Hop on Hop off City Tour Dublin Bus Travel FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum Entry 3 Day Card for €35

Buy Tickets at : Bus & Travel Information Desk (T1 Arrivals Hall) or Airlink Bus Stop (T1 & T2)

Dublin’s Best Sightseeing & Travel Pass

Airlink Express Hop on Hop off Dublin Bus

dodublin.ie

150

BOUTIQUE

TOP PICKS Razzle and dazzle this summer with these vibrant picks from Boutique magazine.

CHOCOMOON GEOMETRIC, VINTAGE STYLE WATCH €49 An ideal accent piece for any summer ensemble, this chic watch is timelessly stylish. Reds, blues, yellows … it will catch everyone’s eye.

SNÖ OF SWEDEN SIRI SET €39 Nothing razzles and dazzles like this glittering jewellery set. Its intricately ﬁﬁne, ne, clear-cut cubic zirconia oozes sophistication, minus the high price tag.

MICHAEL KORS SEXY RUBY PERFUME €50 Raspberry and rose ﬂorals tantalise the senses as this bold perfume takes hold. Inspired by a ﬁery ruby, this delicious scent is warm, intoxicating and highly addictive.

EVE LOM CLEANSER €40 The actions of this awardwinning cleanser are ﬁvefold: cleanse, decongest, tone, exfoliate and remove makeup (even waterproof mascara). It also balances your natural oils so that skin looks and feels radiant.

IZIPIZI #F SUN TORTOISE GLASSES €40 These nifty, playful sunnies are a summer must. Ultralight and foldable, you’ll wonder how you ever travelled without them. Box and pouch included.

DUBLIN EXCLUSIVE

Cocktails from ¤7.95

GLENDALOUGH POITÍN € 6.95 Poitín is Ireland's historic predecessor to whiskey. It can be traced as far back as 584AD in the monastic settlements of Glendalough.

Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 HARDROCK.COM

E R ’ U YO

N O C A ZY! B A Me CR

Bacon Crusted Ribs

Fleet Street • Stephen’s Green • Blanchardstown Dundrum • Swords • Liffey Valley

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A FINE VINTAGE

CARVAIR CLUB

With a nationwide effort being implemented to improve Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accessibility as a tourism destination in the 1960s, Aer Lingus offered a unique aircraft to help the efforts.

n 1963, two Carvair aircraft were acquired by Aer Lingus to operate a car ferry service between Ireland and the UK, and mainland Europe. At the time, drive-on sea ferries had not been established and the Irish government was keen to boost tourism. The aircraft were based on the Douglas DC-4 airliner, but modified for the car ferry role. This involved cutting off the fuselage forward of the wing and replacing it with a complete new nose section incorporating a raised flight deck and nose loading door, enabling cars to be driven into the aircraft via an elevating platform. Aer Lingus operated its airborne car ferry services from Dublin and Cork to Bristol, and from Dublin to Liverpool. The unusual aircraft typically carried five cars and 22 passengers, and the inaugural service was operated on the Dublin to Liverpool route on May 8, 1963. The Carvair were also used on a route from

Dublin to Cherbourg, for which it was configured to carry four cars and 34 passengers. A third and final Carvair was added to the Aer Lingus fleet in spring 1964, and the aircraft were also used to carry racehorses on special charters. The introduction of sea ferries in 1965 led to a fall off in traffic for the quirky contender in Ireland, but not before a British United counterpart graced the silver screen in James Bond blockbuster, Goldfinger (1964) ferrying the villainous Auric Goldfingerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prized Rolls-Royce to Switzerland.

Loading a car into the nose of an Aer Lingus Carvair aircraft at Bristol Airport.

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