Cara October/November 2019

ACTS OF FAITH The Resolute Ruth Bradley

BRAVE FRONT Enduring the Cork Distance Swim

COMEBACK KID The Catskills Reborn (Again)

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CONTENTS OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2019

CHECK IN 4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news and announcements 8 ARRIVALS Welcoming new faces at Dublin’s T2 13 CHECK IN Autumn is ripe with calendar-worthy events, launches, food and drinks news 26 DETOURIST Eoin Higgins falls hook, line and sinker for Philadelphia’s Fishtown 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s seasonal reads 32 TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The blooming lovely adventures of horticulturalist Jimi Blake

FEATURES

34 MISSION POSSIBLE The sussed actor Ruth Bradley impresses Emily Hourican 40 PLACE MAKERS Gemma Tipton meets Irish architects 50 ENDURE TO CONQUER Elaine K Howley deep-dives into Cork’s infamous “Torture Swim” 60 PASTURES NEW Are the Catskills the new Bushwick?

Lucy White finds out 81 UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE Shayna Sappington sees stars at Universal Studios Hollywood 92 HEX APPEAL Rose Callahan gets spellbound by Salem, Massachusetts

REGULARS

BUSINESS

73 10 DESTINATION MUSEUMS 111 BUSINESS & LIFE Shayna Sappington’s lowdown of this Madeleine Keane finds Paris as steely season’s blockbuster exhibitions and enduring as its Eiffel Tower 101 6 IRISH CASTLE HOTELS 118 A DAY IN THE LIFE Thomas Breathnach’s majestic stays How Maura Quinn, CEO of Ireland’s 108 48 HOURS IN BERLIN Institute of Directors, juggles her Where to commemorate the fall of the many hats Berlin Wall by Sarah Gillespie 120 6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT The mottos and motivations of Iconic On-board info, entertainment and retail Offices’ Joe McGinley 152 A FINE VINTAGE When Walt Disney came to Dublin

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WELCOME ABOARD Don’t put your suitcases into hibernation just yet – there are plenty of getaways to consider this season, from leaf peeping in America to sunshine weekenders in Europe.

THE BIG SING

W

elcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly with us today.

The autumn/winter season is now fully here and while some of us love the autumnal colours, fireside chats and woolly jumpers, a number also long for warmer climes, sunny shores and planning the next getaway. Our winter schedule is at its busiest ever, to Europe and North America.

Having just launched our Minneapolis-St Paul route with a daily service in July, we’re delighted to continue offering a number of daily flights to North America this winter, including services to San Francisco, Los Angeles, Washington DC and Philadelphia, twice daily to Chicago and Boston and three times daily to New York. The Aer Lingus Dublin gateway continues to be the fastest, best value and most hassle-free way to cross the Atlantic.

And as we approach the Christmas season, we look forward to homecomings and airport reunions, with Aer Lingus guests flying home to reunite with loved ones. Some 33 million Americans identify

as Irish, so to help those interested in discovering their Irish heritage we recently launched a “Discover Your Roots” package.

The week-long package includes airfare, hotels, car hire, a private consultation with a professional genealogist at The Irish Family History Centre and a visit to EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum.

Aer Lingus is the official airline of the IRFU and in September we flew the Irish Men’s rugby team on the first leg of their departure to Japan for the Rugby World Cup. In our ongoing support of Irish sport, on November 16, we will bring the Irish Gaelic Games, aka the Super 11s, to the Citi Field stadium for the New York Hurling Classic, where Wexford, Tipperary, Kilkenny and Limerick will compete for the Players Champions Cup. This is the fourth year that Aer Lingus has partnered with the GAA and GPA to bring hurling to the US and we hope to see you at the stadium in November.

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.

As airline partner to ITV’s The X Factor 2019, Aer Lingus will be flying out contestants to Los Angeles. Tune in to see how this year’s celebrity contestants all get on.

HURLY BURLY Aer Lingus will bring “lovely hurlin’” to the USA, as Wexford, Tipperary, Kilkenny and Limerick compete in New York for the Players Champions Cup at the Citi Field stadium on November 16.

EDITORIAL

EDITOR Lucy White DEPUTY EDITOR Eoin Higgins EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Shayna Sappington SUB-EDITOR Sheila Wayman CONTRIBUTORS Nicki Buglewicz, Thomas Breathnach, Rose Callahan, Ruth Connolly, Jessica Enright, Sarah Gillespie, Joe Hayes, Bridget Hourican, Ben Ingoldsby, Madeleine Keane, Ciana March, Anne O’Hara, Seoirse O’Mahony, Johnny Savage, Mathew Scott, Gemma Tipton, Elly Walton

ART

ADVERTISING MANAGER Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie ADVERTISING COPY CONTACT Derek Skehan, +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie

ADMINISTRATION

FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Brett Walker ACCOUNTS MANAGER Lisa Dickenson CREDIT CONTROLLER Angela Bennett CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Clodagh Edwards GROUP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lizzie Gore-Grimes GROUP CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Melanie Morris GROUP EDITOR AT LARGE Laura George EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Ann Reihill

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

CHAIRMAN Laura George DIRECTORS Eoin Magee, Patrick Dillon Malone, Clodagh Edwards, Melanie Morris, Robert Power

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Media.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD

CEO Clare Broadbent BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Christina da Silva COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Justine Daly CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stuart Purcell FINANCE DIRECTOR Jane Moffett STRATEGY & BUSINESS DIRECTOR Ann Hartland +44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

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PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 IMAGE Media, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663

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Elaine K Howley is a freelance journalist and documentary filmmaker based in Boston. She writes about health and sports topics, and as a marathon swimmer, has completed more than a dozen ultra-marathon swims around the world including solo crossings of the English Channel and the length of Loch Ness. She’s currently working on a documentary about breast cancer survivor and would-be four-way English Channel crosser Sarah Thomas. Her participation in this summer’s Cork Distance Week marathon training camp provided inspiration for her piece on page 50.

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ACTING ART DIRECTOR Julie Horton CREATIVE DIRECTOR Bill O’Sullivan

CONTRIBUTORS

Emily Hourican is an author and journalist based in Dublin. She has written for The Sunday Independent, IMAGE Magazine, Time Out, Condé Nast Traveller and Lonely Planet among others for 15 years, and is the author of four bestselling novels and one nonfiction book. Her third novel, The Blamed, was mostly set in Brussels, Belgium, where she grew up, while her latest, The Outsider, is set in Kerry, “my favourite place on Earth.” Her first commission for Cara – see page 34 – gave her the chance to interview Ruth Bradley, an actor she has long admired.

Photographer Owen Behan recently returned to Ireland after almost a decade overseas, the last seven of which were spent in Mexico. He has been shooting fashion, advertising and editorial portraiture in New Zealand, the US and Ireland, building up a body of work that includes editorial and advertising. Owen’s clients to date include adidas, Gatorade, Tommy Hilfiger, Absolut Elyx, Eveready, Vichy, Discovery Channel, Mexico’s Next Top Model and many magazines, his cover portrait of Ruth Bradley being his first assignment for Cara.

Turn to page 34 for more from the shoot.

© 2019 IMAGE Media Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or IMAGE Media Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or IMAGE Media Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Media Ltd.

ON THE COVER

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Media Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie.

ACTS OF FAITH The Resolute Ruth Bradley

BRAVE FRONT Enduring the Cork Distance Swim

COMEBACK KID The Catskills Reborn (Again)

Ruth Bradley was photographed by Owen Behan at Stella Cocktail Club, assisted by Ben Ingoldsby and Seoirse O’Mahony. Styling by Ciana March, makeup

by Nicki Buglewicz and hair by Joe Hayes.

WELCOME TO OUR NEW ISSUE! WE ARE ALL YOURS. FEEL FREE TO TAKE THIS MAGAZINE AWAY FOR YOUR ONWARD JOURNEY. WE WOULD ALSO LOVE YOUR FEEDBACK AND TRAVEL PHOTOS VIA TWITTER @CARAMAGAZINE.

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ARRIVALS

As autumn arrived, so did these giddy globetrotters in T2, with exciting tales from abroad.

WHO? Lola and Ola Shittu FLYING IN FROM … London Gatwick OLA SAYS … This is our first time in Ireland and we came for a wedding. We’re exploring Dublin for the day before travelling to Cavan for the celebration.

WHO? Noel Allison and Aimee Boucher FLYING IN FROM … Madrid AIMEE SAYS … We’re on holiday, travelling around Ireland and Spain for a few weeks before returning home to Vancouver.

WHO? Aram Zarikian and Johnny Wells FLYING IN FROM …

London Gatwick ARAM SAYS … We are musicians who play the bass and cymbals. We are meeting the rest of the band in Kilkenny for an arts festival.

WHO? Clarisse Genton FLYING IN FROM … Paris CLARISSE SAYS … It has been a long day but I’m so happy I am finally in Dublin. I came for a week to visit my close friend who lives here.

WHO? Stefan Leifhelm and Raquel Santana FLYING IN FROM … Pula STEFAN SAYS … Unfortunately, we are returning home, but we had the best time spending a week on holiday in Germany and Pula, Croatia.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN & WORDS BY SHAYNA SAPPINGTON

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Pictured above from L-R are: Partner, Deirdre Crowley; Cork Office Lead and Partner, Gráinne Callanan; and Managing Partner, Michael Jackson

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Renowned for Bestowing the Gift of Eloquence Each visit to the gardens at Blarney Castle is always a unique experience. The grounds change remarkably with the seasons and new surprises await you around every corner. The 70 acres of gardens are a must see destination, and the estate boasts one of Ireland’s finest collections of trees and plants from all corners of the world.

As Ireland’s first Wildlife Estate, it stands to reason that this haven so close to the city is a wonderful location to be close to nature. A stealthy visitor may spot an elusive kingfisher along the riverside walks or a red squirrel in the arboretum. It’s no surprise that Blarney’s gardens are the most visited in Ireland.

There is something for everyone, from the amateur gardener to the seasoned plantsman or the family out to explore.

Follow the map to find the historic and magical Rock Close with it’s Wishing Steps and Witch’s Kitchen; or the deadly Poison Garden, the Jurassic Fern Garden or the hidden Himalayan Valley.

Visiting gardens just got so much more exciting!

October: 9.00am - 6.00pm (last admission 5.00pm) | November: 9.00am - 5.00pm (last admission 4.00pm) www.blarneycastle.ie | info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork)

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FOR THE BIRDS, JONY EASTERBY & COLLECTIVE OF ARTISTS. PRODUCED BY ARTICHOKE. PHOTOGRAPH BY MATTHEW ANDREWS

EAT | READ | GO

LIGHT FANTASTIC This November 14-17 heralds the tenth anniversary of the UK’s largest light festival, Lumiere – a surreal and immersive display of light, sound and colour, produced by the charity Artichoke. Taking place in different venues across Durham, in Britain’s North East, glowing artworks invite guests to goggle at familiar scenes recast in a fresh light. Alongside new site specific installations will feature crowd-pleasers from the past decade, including Chris Plant’s haunting Harmonic Portal, Caitlind RC Brown and Wayne Garrett’s floating Cloud and Jony Easterby’s For the Birds, above, while Auckland Castle will reopen after a multi-million pound restoration. Entrance to Lumiere is free but ticketed at lumiere-festival.com from October 28.

PHOTOGRAPH BY RICH GILLIGAN

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The all-new Púca Festival celebrates the ancient Celtic tradition of Samhain, with three days of music, food, crafts and spectacularly spooky light shows. Grab your torches for the opening ceremony, The Coming of Samhain, in Athboy, while in Drogheda, gather round for haunting ghost stories, unsettling art displays, and live music from David Keenan, left. Going bump in the night in Trim are performances from Pillow Queens, Kormac and the Irish Chamber Orchestra, plus immersive installations of lightning, fire and chilling apparitions for a new tradition in the making. October 31 until November 2. pucafestival.com

IRISH AMERICAN Philadelphia’s Museum of the Revolution’s newest exhibition, Cost of Revolution: The Life and Death of an Irish Soldier, explores the intriguing connection between the American War of Independence and the Irish Rebellion of 1798, as seen through the eyes of Richard St George, an Irish soldier and artist, who was present in both countries during this seminal time.

More than 100 artefacts, manuscripts and artworks from 18th-century Ireland will be displayed, including original army uniforms, maps, newspaper clippings, flags – and even a surgical trephine (skull saw). Until March 2020. amrevmuseum.org

RAINBOW BRIGHT Theatre, dance, music, literature, film, puppetry and workshops galore – the Baboró International Arts Festival for Children in Galway aims to spark creativity in young minds, from tots to teens. Don’t miss Théâtre de la Guimbarde’s Cache, an acrobatic rendition of hide-andseek (ages 18 months to five years), Branar Téater do Pháistí’s Rockin’ Rhymes song time (ages three-plus), Barrowland Ballet’s playful Tiger Tale (ages seven-plus), above, and Cathal McCarthy’s Rainbow in a Box, in which audiences are invited to step inside a real-life rainbow in the Spanish Arch.

October 14-20. baboro.ie

FAR LEFT, PAINTING OF RICHARD ST GEORGE BY THOMAS GAINSBOROUGH / NATIONAL GALLERY OF VICTORIA, MELBOURNE, FELTON BEQUEST, 1922

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TRUE GRIT Turner Prize-winning artist Mark Leckey’s latest exhibition in

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London is more theatrical performance than mere display. In fact, Mark Leckey: O’ Magic Power of Bleakness includes a life-size replica of an M53 motorway bridge with an audio story of local loitering teenagers, as well as two dynamic videos: Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore 1990, a film montage of Britain’s underground club scene from the 1970s to the 1990s, and Dream English Kid 1964-1999 AD, above, an amalgamation of moving image and his own props and 3D models. Come and join the all-too-relevant exploration of pop culture and technology’s entangled influences. Until January 5, 2020, at Tate Britain. tate.org.uk

HELL’S BELLS! Nothing says Halloween like rotting flesh, fake blood and a deadeyed stare … On October 12, join The Zombie Pub Crawl – Guinness Book of World Records’ largest international zombie horde (18,000 attended last year) – as the soulless stalk the streets of Minneapolis, Minnesota. Their purpose? To embark on the ultimate pub-crawl, consuming countless craft beers in a city known for its microbrews and cheesy treats. DJs, dance fests, food trucks and a brain-eating contest are long-held traditions. If you can’t beat ‘em join ‘em: put on your creepiest makeup and garb and, if you survive the night, you might win the costume contest.

Tickets from $33; proceeds go to local non-profit Still Kicking. zombiepubcrawl.com

COSY GIGS ONLY IN ITS SECOND YEAR, CORK’S ANNUAL QUIET LIGHTS MUSICAL FESTIVAL HAS DRUMMED UP MUCH ANTICIPATION. OPENING WITH TRAD DUO CORMAC BEGLEY AND LIAM O’CONNOR, THE FESTIVAL’S HEADLINERS INCLUDE FOLK BAND LANKUM, BLUESY BROTHERS YE VAGABONDS, JAZZY RIVER LEA, LONDONER ROZI PLAIN AND INDIE CHAP PETER BRODERICK. THE FESTIVAL KICKS OFF ON NOVEMBER 22, IN VARIOUS VENUES ACROSS THE REBEL CITY AND PROMISES THREE DAYS OF SUPERB TALENT, NEW AND OLD, IRISH AND INTERNATIONAL. ESCAPE THE COLD, GRAB A PINT OF PLAIN AND SETTLE IN FOR QUALITY TUNES AND CONVERSATION. QUIETLIGHTS.NET

COLOUR KING Irish artist Eoin McHugh returns to Dublin’s Kerlin Gallery for his latest exhibition Loje, jelo, laso, which translates to “red, yellow, blue” – the only colours that exist in the philosophical language of Toki Pona, which was created in 2001 by the Canadian linguist Sonja Lang.

McHugh’s work, like the language, is boundary-pushing and potent, an eye-boggling rearrangement of existing colours, shapes and movements. By using technical and quill pens, as well as brush-and-ink and airbrush techniques, McHugh creates mesmerising mixed media works that seem to take on a kinetic life of their own. October 25 until December 7. kerlingallery.com

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DIASPORA

MOVIE MAGICIAN PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID GODDARD

Starring in John Crowley’s BAFTA-winning Brooklyn and JK Rowling’s Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them, alongside Colin Farrell and Eddie Redmayne, Belfast-born Jenn Murray is back on the big screen in the much-anticipated sequel, Maleficent: Mistress of Evil (released in Ireland and the UK on October 18), with co-stars Angelina Jolie and Elle Fanning.

What can you tell us about your role in Maleficent? I am the right-hand woman to Queen Ingrith played by Michelle Pfeiffer and I have somewhat sinister skills.

It’s a role I wouldn’t imagine someone would give me so I feel very lucky that [director] Joachim [Rønning] gave me the chance. Working with Michelle and Angelina was encouraging and exquisite.

Both women are generous and smart, they have so much passion for their work and, most importantly, they have a very full life outside their work. This is the most inspiring attribute I find in the actors I look up to – they love their craft but have other things that matter to them.

When did you realise you could make a career in film? When I got my first professional job – the lead role in a feature film called Dorothy – I was in the last few weeks of my final year in drama school. I had never been paid to act before, I couldn’t believe it. A career is a different thing, you are building and shaping it all the time. It takes patience and restraint and sometimes blind faith in yourself.

You’ve lived all over – Belfast, London, LA. What made you settle in NYC? Belfast was a great city to grow up in and I enjoy Dublin, London and Los Angeles – but New York is where I feel the most

myself. You can get around quickly and cheaply, you walk everywhere. Therefore, there is a bounty of inspiration on the streets, in the faces of the people that you squeeze past and in the architecture.

The buildings still take my breath away.

My grandfather came through Ellis Island so if I ever feel overwhelmed, I think of him. I have a copy of his visa framed in my apartment.

What do you miss the most about Belfast?

I miss my family and the sight of green mountains in the background, which I never paid attention to until I was without it. My first stop is coffee with my family, usually in The Merchant Hotel. They have red velvet seats and a roaring fire; the coffee is great and they serve complimentary shortbread.

Win win.

Favourite place in New York when you’re looking to recharge after a long week? I love to watch the basketball matches at West Fourth Street Courts, they energise me! The players’ feet move so fast and everybody shouts and claps.

The ball smacking the backboard is such a satisfying sound. And then going for a burger with my friends in a nearby diner.

Have you found Irish friends in your NYC community? A few Irish friends were already living here when I moved over and they included me in their circles. It’s always nice to have someone who has done the same thing as you. When you move far away, even though you can so easily be in communication, you still get homesick.

Having a friend that understands that from personal experience is very supportive.

Most life-affirming filming location?

Shooting Brooklyn in Montréal was beautiful. I remember doing a night shoot, it was 3am, there was a snow machine wafting white powder all around and I really felt the magic of filmmaking. Also driving into Warner Brothers Studios or Pinewood Studios at 5am … that’s pretty life affirming. I love being early at a studio, when all the crew are convening and you can smell bacon and coffee. You are very much part of a team and I feel so lucky to do what I do.

What would be in a “homesick hamper” if you could get one sent from home?

A Cohiba cigar shared with my father and a nip of Jameson, Nairn’s oatcakes, cashew balls from 5A coffeeshop in Belfast, one of my mother’s scarves that smells of her perfume, photographs of the people I love, a DVD of Scent of a Woman, the entire menu of Blazing Salads in Dublin, some seashells off my favourite beach in Donegal, Van Morrison record It's Too Late to Stop Now, the sound of my siblings laughing, hmmm, I could go on …

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NOUVEAU RICHES Calling all Art Deco and Modernism fans: this year’s ARTONOV Festival promises a week chock-full of creative workshops, sensory experiences, vivid performances and contemporary artwork across some of Brussels’ most stunning architectural spaces.

The opening performance on October 7, Il Corpo Dentro, pays tribute to the 100th anniversary of the Bauhaus movement, while choreographer Carolyn Carlson presents The Seventh Man, left, both of which underline the festival’s theme “l’intuition du geste” (the intuition of gesture), which explores physical movement during bursts of creativity.

October 7-13. festival-artonov.eu

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Known as SoCal’s modern architectural hub, Palm Springs is the idyllic setting for this autumn’s Modernism Week Preview. From October 17-20, more than 50 events, including architectural tours, talks from leading architects, authors and designers, and parties at exclusive venues, will take place in some of the most stunning (and usually private) residences. A must for interior design enthusiasts, as more than 40 decorative and fine arts dealers will showcase their pieces from around the world. Come on October 18, for a preview party with cocktails, live music and a chance to shop the show before it opens to the public. modernismweek.com

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COMPAGNIE CARLSON 7TH MAN ©LAURENT PAILLIER

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LAUGHTER TRACK Kooky, hilarious and pure craic – this year’s Vodafone Comedy Carnival Galway has more than 100 comical acts performing across 18 venues, including Bill Bailey, John Bishop, Luisa Omielan, right, and Reginald D Hunter, this October 22-28. Look forward also to Bingo Loco’s rave parties, Waterford Whispers’ satirical news casts, comedy roast battles and performances from Barry Murphy, Derry Girls’ Kevin McAleer, former Strictly Come Dancing contestant Seann Walsh and TodayFM’s Dermot and Dave. Spend the bank holiday weekend in absolute stitches. vodafonecomedycarnival.com

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BREAKFAST HIDE RESTAURANT,

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Though Hide in Piccadilly is more than just a place for breakfast (it is also a restaurant with its own Michelin star), the subdued informality of its breakfast offering makes it a wonderful place to hide (pardon the pun) from the hustle and bustle of a busy London morning. Try their pastries – all baked in house – with their own preserves. They serve brunch on Saturday and Sunday from noon until 3pm and it’s not to be missed. hide.co.uk

LUNCH ARPÈGE, PARIS The Arpège lunch menu is at least half the price of its dinner menu and, with three Michelin stars, offers great value. Expect lots of vegetables and fish (owner and chef Alain Passard doesn’t serve red meat) and much more creativity and wizardry from one of my favourite chefs. Hyper-seasonal – autumn is an amazing time to go – they have their own garden outside Paris which supplies the restaurant with its herbs and vegetables.

Passard’s cooking is a constant inspiration. alain-passard.com

DRINKS WILDAIR, NEW YORK I love natural, organic and biodynamic wines, and places like Wildair were an inspiration for us when we opened our own wine bar. They work with small producers from around the world who choose to make wine as naturally as possible. This means less intervention, resulting in fewer chemicals and sulphites. The food is also wonderful, small plates that sum up all that is best about contemporary American cooking. Try a bottle of organic French red by Jean-Marie and Thierry Puzelat from Le Clos du Tue-Bœuf, perfect with beef tartare. wildair.nyc

FOOD FLIGHT Galway-based chef JP McMahon is culinary director of EATGalway, a restaurant group, comprising Michelin-starred Aniar Restaurant, Cava Bodega and Tartare Café + Wine Bar. He runs Aniar Boutique Cookery School and is the director of Food on the Edge, a two-day food convention that takes place October 21-22 in Galway city. foodontheedge.ie

DINNER TICKETS, BARCELONA Albert Adrià, formerly of El Bulli, is a culinary genius. Tickets is my favourite of the five places he runs in Barcelona. It’s like sitting down with the Mad Hatter and the March Hare for a tapas-inspired tea party. Expect an eclectic array of influences. Adrià, originally a pastry chef, is at his best after dinner. The dessert room, which they bring you to after the meal, is a brilliant summation of a wonderful eating experience. elbarri.com

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And we’re working hard to achieve our goal that by 2025 all our packaging will be fully recyclable and all our paper and cardboard will be 100% sustainable.

It’s the natural thing to do.

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HOOKED ON A FEELING Accompanied by

GRUB’S UP

Eoin Higgins is smitten with a red-hot Brooklyn classic.

SMALL PLATES

Delectable Irish morsels from home and away.

FOOD ISLAND Looking for new ways to experience more of Ireland’s larder?

Check out Good Food Ireland Experiences, a new portal that allows food lovers to browse experiences by date, destination or the food experience they would like to explore. goodfoodireland.ie

RAISING THE BAR Dublin’s storied Shelbourne Hotel recently launched The Terrace, a relaxed space within the hotel with sky views and casual dining.

Another addition is the 1824 Bar – a warm, cosy and luxe space offering a cheering drinks list from 5pm daily. shelbournedining.ie

GOOD EXPRESSIONS Two new expressions have been added to Irish Distillers’ Method and Madness whiskey range: a single pot still finished in wild cherry wood, and another finished in acacia wood. Bottled at 46 per cent ABV, the limited editions are yours for €92 a pop. methodandmadness whiskey.com

plenty of grassroots hype, Bill Durney’s Red Hook Tavern opened in Brooklyn, late July. The cult-followed restaurateur’s new slant on iconic New York staples has subsequently had time to finesse any teething problems and find its feet. The result? What was once pencilled in to be (yet another ...) fried chicken restaurant has turned out to be a trend-bucking classic.

The food is expertly executed yet uncomplicated – an example of which is the Peter Luger-inspired burger: combining a dry-aged beef patty, topped with oozing American cheese, and soft, caramelised white onion. It comes served, simply, with thick-cut, perfectly seasoned fries and a tart, crunchy pickle on the side.

There’s also mouth-watering char-grilled shellfish, left, prime steaks and well thought-through salads.

Meanwhile, the drinks offering isn’t as straightforward, in a good way. Two house ales (a light and a dark) and a killer selection of craft brews, compete with a concise list of classic cocktails and an extensive wine list with promiscuous range: from a dry, macerated Georgian Kisi Qvevri ($50), all the way up to the powerhouse 1995 ($700) Carruades de Lafite.

As to ambience, the vibe is cosy, the lighting kind and the staff down-to-earth friendly. All of which combines to create an experience that feels way more than the sum of its parts – simply brilliant. redhooktavern.com

G & TEA Tea and tipple in style with The Restaurant by Johnnie Cooke at the capital’s poshest department store, Brown Thomas, as both partner up to bring zingy refreshment to jaded shoppers in the shape of the Bombay Sapphire Infused Afternoon Tea. brownthomas.com

LIFE ON THE EDGE At this year’s Food on the Edge (October 21-22) in Galway city, an international line-up of speakers will explore – via 15-minute talks, discussions and masterclasses – the theme of “migration”. They will also be browsing a food village showcasing the best of Irish food. foodontheedge.ie

DETOURIST

Eoin Higgins swims upstream to find Philadelphia’s fun-loving folk feeling the good times in funky Fishtown.

O

nce a gritty Irish immigrant enclave, Fishtown is currently riding the crest of a rapid, yet mostly sensitive, period of gentrification. With its indie retailers, unique restaurants and bar scene it’s no wonder that the city’s most wide-eyed trend anglers are now a fixture in the once-forgotten district.

EAT Discover local flavour at regional hotspot Elwood, on a menu that celebrates Pennsylvania’s most traditional dishes. Chef Adam Diltz’s homage to the state’s culinary history is a BYOB affair that has folk lining up for plates featuring things like catfish and waffles, and frog-leg fricassee. All with a robust field- or farmto-table pedigree. elwoodrestaurant.com

SOCIALISE Once a notorious dive bar, The Trestle Inn is still one of the more colourfully raucous nightspots in Fishtown.

With a free-spirited, Swinging Sixties vibe that includes live go-go dancers and a generous whiskey selection, this is the kind of bar where the night before might be worth the morning after. PS, the sours are delicious, try one. thetrestleinn.com

THE DETOURIST=

BREW Take a tour through Yards Brewing Company’s handsomely fitted out brewery and discover how some of Fishtown’s finest brews come bubbling to life. They also offer more than 20 taps of first-draughts, seasonal and specialty beers – not to mention a tipple-friendly food menu.

A crafty spot to while away an afternoon. yardsbrewing.com

VISIT “The world’s first pizza museum”, Pizza Brain is a fun place to discover more about the impact this humble Italian dish has had on North America. This is executed via pop cultural reference materials and novelty pizza paraphernalia. Meanwhile, the edible pizza on offer here is also worthy of your time – the genre-busting Bob Pie comes highly recommended. pizzabrain.org

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SHOP From 1980s ghetto blasters, to rail upon rail of high-end clothing, Urban Exchange Project is a trove of highlypurchasable second-hand conversation pieces. The family-run business also hosts weekend “fill a bag” sales where you pay a base rate and then fill your bag with all the vintage gear that catches your eye. urbanstag.wpengine.com

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DETAIL OF ANGEL OF PEACE AND HOPE

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FICTION

THE BIG YAROO by Pat McCabe (New Island Books) We last saw Francie Brady, the Butcher Boy, imprisoned “on account of what he done to Mrs Nugent”. Now here he is, 40 years on, in “Fizzbag Mansions”, a mental asylum in south Dublin, editing his newsletter, The Big Yaroo, and bringing to his life and work the dangerous comic book gusto that so beguiles and chills.

DARK BEAUTY: HIDDEN DETAIL IN HARRY CLARKE’S STAINED GLASS by Lucy Costigan and Michael Cullen (Merrion Press) Minute detail is a feature of the work of the great Irish stained glass artist, Harry Clarke (18891931). You can spend hours in front of his windows marvelling over the intricacy of the hidden motifs.

This book’s title Dark Beauty refers to the duality of Clarke’s work that sees delicate angels juxtaposed with macabre grotesques. The authors spent many years photographing Clarke’s windows in Ireland, England, the US and Australia and selected 500 images for this wonderful book. In Ireland, check out Clarke’s work in the Hugh Lane Gallery, National Gallery, Ballinrobe Church, Co Mayo, Honan Chapel at University College Cork, Tullamore Church in Co Offaly and Carrickmacross Church, Co Monaghan.

SHELF LIFE Stained glass, rock stars and the art of failing provide inspiration for Bridget Hourican in her latest literary grab-bag.

PODCAST

SAGA

THE EIGHTH LIFE by Nino Haratischwili, translated by Charlotte Collins and Ruth Martin (Scribe UK, out November 19) This is one for longhaul flights or the Christmas lock-in. A sprawling family saga, spanning six generations, four places (Georgia, Moscow, London, Berlin), 1,000 pages and a whiff of magic realism, The Eighth Life has already scooped the prize and bestseller lists in Europe and now appears in English.

HOW TO FAIL WITH ELIZABETH DAY Elizabeth Day meets guests to discuss their three biggest failures.

Day is a novelist (The Party) and many of her guests are writers – David Nicholls, Sebastian Faulks, Tara Westover, David Baddiel, Kristen Roupenian, Phoebe Waller-Bridge – so inevitably lots of their failures are around books and scripts that didn’t make it. Listening to very successful people talk about failure may strike you as an oxymoron but judging by the huge success of the podcast, launched just last year, it’s also quite comforting. Day will talk about her book of the same name, How to Fail, at the London Literature Festival in October.

MEMOIR

YEAR OF THE MONKEY by Patti Smith (Bloomsbury) In 2016 – the Year of the Monkey, according to the Chinese Calendar – the 69-yearold rock star and artist took to the road, hitchhiking from San Francisco to Santa Cruz, Arizona and Kentucky, grappling with the illness and death of two close friends. Part memoir, part travelogue, part meditation, fuelled by coffee and like all her work, very Beat – the last pulse of the 1960s.

EVENT

THE LONDON LITERATURE FESTIVAL (OCTOBER 17-27) SEES AUTHORS INCLUDING ELIF SHAFAK, ARMISTEAD MAUPIN, JUNG CHANG AND OUR VERY OWN LOUISE O’NEILL CONVERGE ON THE SOUTHBANK CENTRE FOR TALKS, READINGS AND WORKSHOPS. IT OPENS WITH POETRY INTERNATIONAL, THE FESTIVAL FOUNDED BY TED HUGHES IN 1967, WHICH CONCLUDES ON OCTOBER 21, AFTER THE FORWARD PRIZE FOR POETRY THE NIGHT BEFORE. SOUTHBANKCENTRE.CO.UK

One Destination

A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

Book online today Experience a unique landscape and culture by staying in County Clare Open 8am – 7pm in October

Co. Clare, Ireland.

9am – 5pm in November & December

T: +353 65 7086141 E: info@cliffsofmoher.ie

United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

www.cliffsofmoher.ie

SNAILS FOR DINNER Jessica Enright, age 16, is the secondary school senior winner of the 2019 Immrama Young Travel Writers Competition at this year’s Lismore Immrama Festival of Travel Writing, sponsored by Aer Lingus. Here, we share her “Letter to Home”.

ILLUSTRATION ANNE O’HARA

I’m writing to you as I’m sipping a frothy latte on one of the many sun-drenched terraces of Paris. Are you jealous yet? Although, I remember you telling me that you hate coffee.

Anyway, I have quite the story to tell you. God, I can feel myself blushing scarlet even thinking about it.

Picture this. I’ve stumbled into the first Parisian restaurant that I’ve caught sight of to satiate the ferocious growling in my stomach. In hindsight, I probably should have realised my mistake as soon as I passed through the gilded doors. Waiters with tiny pointed moustaches waltz around, flutes of champagne balanced precariously on gleaming silver trays. Men wearing too much hair oil and thousand dollar suits laugh raucously and puff on big cigars. I’m instantly overwhelmed by the stench of perfume, so strong it stings my nostrils when I take a breath. I hear the sharp tapping sound of stiletto heels attached to long, slender legs as ladies who belong on the front pages of magazines drift by. Rail thin women, all clad from head to toe in designer clothing and diamonds, sport perfectly manicured nails and glossy blow-dried locks that rest in smooth waves just above their shoulders.

I shove my faux-leather purse inside my coat as the maître d’ directs me to a table. He looks me briefly up and down, taking in my cheap and cheerful clothing before smirking to himself and sashaying away. I’m feeling fairly embarrassed at this stage, as I see people at the tables beside me giggle behind their hands as they appraise my ancient sneakers. But this is nothing in comparison to what’s to come.

By now I’ve been handed a menu and a bead of perspiration is beginning to bead on the nape of my neck as I catch a glimpse of the extortionate prices. A petite woman wearing eyeliner that probably cost more than my entire outfit watches me speculatively, her lips pursed in a mocking smile as she appraises the panicked look on my face. Another waiter appears out of thin air beside me, nattering away to me in heavily accented English about his recommendations, all costing three figures. My panic doubles when I peer more closely at the menu and notice that there are no English translations. Gemma, you know how hopeless I am at French. So, I just order the first thing that pops into my head – escargots.

Stop. I can just see you giggling right now. Remember my face when Tom spilt ketchup on my brand new white blouse? Well, that’s what I looked like when I was served a huge plate of snails. You know how fussy I am, I couldn’t face even trying one. I had to leave the restaurant €100 poorer and just as hungry as I’d been walking in! Anyway, I don’t want to keep you. I’m sure you’ve got better things to do than read about me being my usual silly self.

Say hello to Mam for me! Lots of love,

Jessica Enright is a student at Scoil Mhuire Greenhill, Carrick on Suir, Co Tipperary and her teacher Alison Duffy helped submit her story. Earlier this year, young writers were encouraged to submit entries based on different themes and across three different school categories: primary, secondary junior and secondary senior. Close to 500 entries were received from schools across Ireland, with three winners announced at the annual Lismore Immrama Festival of Travel Writing in June 2019, of which Aer Lingus was a sponsor.

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Where is your favourite destination for gardens?

I have travelled all over the world to see many, but for me very few compare to those in the UK. Travelling there over the last 25 years to visit superb gardens has inspired me to run my own tours. Every year I lead groups of avid gardeners to see some of the best there, including both National Trust and private gardens.

TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Jimi Blake trained at Dublin’s National Botanic Gardens, was head gardener at Dundrum’s Airfield Gardens and, in the 1990s, established Hunting Brook Gardens in Co Wicklow. His new book, A Beautiful Obsession (Filbert Press, £25), is out now, inspiring new garden projects and challenging long-held notions. huntingbrook.com

Where surprised you the most? Years ago, I visited Sumba and West Timor in Indonesia. I visited tribal villages in Sumba, where indigenous people live in communities surrounded by megalithic tombs. The Sumbanese have been able to retain much of their culture and I felt privileged to meet such wonderful people. In West Timor I visited a tribe of people, high in the mountains, who had a completely organic vegetarian diet and was honoured to spend an evening eating a delicious dinner with the king of the village.

PORTRAIT BY SEAN JACKSON PHOTOGRAPHY

Favourite accommodation?

That’s a difficult one. I have stayed in some amazing places but in Costa Rica the Jungle Studio stands out for me. Staying there was like sleeping in a glass box looking out over the jungle.

It was magical. I also loved staying in a converted school bus on the Banks peninsula in New Zealand, both of which I found through Airbnb.

Where is your favourite place to eat?

Having travelled widely, LA has the most incredible selection of plant-based restaurants. Matthew Kenney’s restaurant – Plant Food & Wine (matthewkenneycuisine. com) – is my favourite, with the most beautiful courtyard for dining. Café Gratitude (cafegratitude.com) is just around the corner and I adore the food there also. Exploring plant-based cuisine is a big part of travel for me and using the app Happy Cow has opened this world up even more.

If you could fly anywhere tomorrow …

I would go to the mountains in northern Vietnam to explore the plant life, in areas such as Mount Fansipan. Some of my friends and fellow plant fanatics have gone there on official plant-hunting expeditions. How exciting to discover new plants and of course many of these are now endangered due to habitat loss.

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INTERVIEW

MISSION POSSIBLE

Envisioning the route to success as a marathon, rather than a sprint, Ruth Bradley has successfully reversed her fortunes as a couch-surfing actor in London to in-demand star of stage and screen.

WORDS EMILY HOURICAN PHOTOGRAPHS OWEN BEHAN

“W

hen I was 19, living in London, going for the ‘sweet girlfriend’ parts – I never got them. It was like trying to fit a round peg into a square hole. I’d try, but I think I just couldn’t shake off the essence of me, whatever that is.”

So says Ruth Bradley, now 32, of the early part of her career (although given that she was working from her teens, maybe “mid part” would be more accurate). In fact, everything she tells me, on a break from rehearsals at Dublin’s Abbey Theatre for Lisa Tierney-Keogh’s This Beautiful Village, suggests that those first London years were tough. “I pitched up totally alone,” she says. “I knew nobody. I answered a Gumtree ad for somewhere to stay and lived with strangers. It was terrible.”

She worked in telesales, as a waiter, went to auditions and suffered rejection after rejection. For a time she “lived behind the couch” in a flat with friends of friends because she couldn’t afford to pay more than “a fraction” towards the rent: “They were so kind,” she recalls now.

“I’m forever grateful.” (Later, she lived with fellow Irish actor Amy Huberman for a time: “That was when all the bad stuff had ended and we just had fun. She’s brilliant, a real pal.”)

So what got her through those early days? “I was expecting the worst,” she says with a laugh, “so the worst was always okay. I always saw this as a marathon rather than a sprint.”

Back then, she gave herself four years to make it.

Three years in, she got a BBC series, The Innocence Project. “That was the beginning. In my mid-20s it all started to get better. I don’t know why. I think I probably fit a bit better.”

If the former flatmates are inclined to tell their own version of the couch story, then it’s one that ends happily: Bradley is a triple IFTA (Irish Film and Television Award) winner, in 2007 for Stardust, in 2012 for Grabbers and in 2016 for Rebellion. She appeared with Gillian Anderson and Jamie Dornan in The Fall and was unnervingly good as Karen Voss in Channel 4’s Humans, while stage highlights include Sive (Druid Theatre) and The Playboy of the Western World (Abbey). Most recently she appeared in Irish and UK cinemas in The Informer with Rosamund Pike and Clive Owen, a crime thriller in which Bradley plays a New York cop. “I jumped at the chance to play a character so new and different to anything I’d done before,” she says. “To get into the physicality of being an NYPD

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

street cop from Brooklyn.” The film gets a US release in January 2020.

Bradley will soon be on small screens in Robbie McKillop’s Guilt, a stylish, darkly comic BBC1 crime caper set in Edinburgh.

“I loved how three-dimensional my character, Angie, is. I absolutely loved the script. Such a rollercoaster ride.”

It’s a far cry from the uncertainty of her 20s. Did she ever feel like giving up before the allotted four-year span? “Never. It was always just like ‘the sky is blue and I’m an actress’. I don’t know where that came from but I never remember not thinking it.”

This, I say, makes her sound incredibly copped-on for someone so young. “Only about that!” she says. “Sometimes I think it would have been handy if I’d thought, ‘I’ll just be an accountant’. Lots of money and probably an easy life …”

Her mother, Charlotte Bradley, is also an actor (both she and Ruth have appeared in films with Brendan Gleeson, although not the same film); maybe that’s where the certainty came from? Except, Ruth didn’t know her mother was an actor until she was eight. The family moved to Canada – Ruth’s father was a GP who later became a psychiatrist – when Ruth was a baby and Charlotte took time out to raise Ruth and her three younger siblings. “In Canada she had been primarily a folk singer,” Ruth says.

“So I thought, ‘she’s a singer and I’m an actress.’ It was only when we moved back to Ireland, when I was eight, that she got back into acting. And I remember thinking, ‘that’s so weird, she’s doing my job …’”

By then, Ruth had already fallen in love, hard, with performing. But not the typical “tah-dah!” stage-school-kid kind: “I loved the idea that you could make people in an audience feel something,” she says, “whether it was being sad or happy or anything – that you could bring something out of other people through feeling it yourself.”

Back in Ireland, she took lessons at Dublin’s Gaiety School and by the age of 16 had an agent. She began working almost immediately. “One of the first

“I loved the idea that you could make an audience feel something – that you could bring something out of other people through feeling it yourself”

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things I got was Sinners, a BBC1 film about the Magdalene laundries. That was really distressing. But in hindsight, the director, Aisling Walsh, was so clever. There was a sexual abuse scene and the way she directed it, I really didn’t understand what I was doing. I did it all without knowing the mechanics of what had happened. It was only as an adult that I thought ‘wow …’”

She had a brief spell at Trinity College Dublin after that – three weeks, before dropping out and moving to London. Her parents were supportive and trusted her sense of purpose. Even so, there were, Bradley says, “in hindsight, a good few situations that I got myself into, in an audition scenario, that wouldn’t happen today. I didn’t really have the voice or the knowledge to say ‘this is inappropriate’.

There was nothing overtly sexual,” she adds, “but comments, things that you’d be like ‘that doesn’t fly …’ Things that wouldn’t happen any more. Or at least I hope they wouldn’t.” The #MeToo movement has, she admits, changed things. “There is now a conversation where there was none before.”

From her mother, Bradley learnt “this

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INTERVIEW

THE LIKES OF RUTH

MUSIC “Your Face by The Frames. It was in an [Enda Walsh] film called Disco Pigs when I was a teenager. I was obsessed with the film and the performances, and by that piece of music in it. I just find it so utterly beautiful.

It never gets old.”

FILM “There are too many to choose from but one of my favourites is Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?

Liz Taylor is superb. I was always fascinated by the relationship between her and Richard Burton. He would say to her ‘you’re just a screen star, I’m a real actor’. There’s a cruelty to that; it’s unfair and untrue.

And maybe that’s why I love that film – because he’s amazing in it, but she’s absolutely amazing.”

is hard work and mostly difficult. That the rejections are the things you need to be prepared for.” From her father? “His job is what interests me as an actress – the psychology of human nature. Why people do things? I would speak to him about certain jobs.” And by the way – watch this space, there may be a dynasty forming: “My sister is an actress, my brother is an assistant director but has started an acting course. The youngest is 13 so who knows what she’ll be.” An accountant, I suggest.

“Probably,” Bradley smiles.

London is still home and she recently bought a house in Hackney. She has worked nearly constantly for over a

decade now. Is she recognised on the street? “Very rarely,” she says with relief.

“That’s a whole different beast. For me, it’s get in, do your job quietly, get out.”

Does she think about looking to other aspects of the industry? “I’ve thought, ‘I should write something that I really want to play’, but I haven’t yet. I just love interpreting what other people have written. Maybe that will change, but for now, no.”

Finally, where does she think she is in “the marathon” that is this endeavour?

“Oh my God,” she laughs. “I don’t know … maybe nine miles in? With 17 to go.”

Guilt will air on BBC1 this autumn.

TV SERIES “When They See Us on Netflix. It was so sensitively made, bursting with mind- blowing performances. A harrowing but really important watch.

[Filmmaker] Ava DuVernay is a genius.”

PODCASTS “The Guardian’s weekday podcast Today in Focus.

I find it a much healthier way to ingest news as opposed to glaring at my iPhone screen. Anushka Asthana is fantastic – I could listen to her all day.”

STYLING BY CIANA MARCH, MAKEUP BY NICKI BUGLEWICZ AND HAIR BY JOE HAYES. COVER SHOT, OPENING PAGES AND THIS PAGE: TUNIC & TROUSERS BY FOUR THREADS, EARRINGS BY RACHEL COMEY, GOLD RING

BY AMBRE CARDINAL, BOTH AT BEAUTIFUL SOUTH. PREVIOUS SPREAD: LEFT, DRESS BY TELA, EARRINGS BY RACHEL COMEY, BOOTS BY UNITED NUDE, GOLD RING AS BEFORE, ALL AT BEAUTIFUL SOUTH. RIGHT, SHIRT & BORDEAUX TROUSERS BY PETER O’BRIEN FOR DUNNES STORES, GOLD RING AS BEFORE AT BEAUTIFUL SOUTH. CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE STELLA COCKTAIL CLUB, RATHMINES; STELLACOCKTAILCLUB.IE

BOOKS “My favourite book of all time is Never Let Me Go by Kazuo Ishiguro. It held my heart in its hand then ripped it out in the most oddly uplifting way.”

PLACE MAKERS Traditional, frame-breaking and often unique, Irish architecture is having a moment of global recognition. Meet the practitioners who are shaping spaces in which to live, work and play.

WORDS GEMMA TIPTON PHOTOGRAPHS JOHNNY SAVAGE

C

lose your eyes and think of an Irish scene. There is a building in it. Is it a rural thatched cottage, all whitewashed walls, without a straight line anywhere?

A glittering office block in the buzzing Dublin Docklands? Or maybe it’s something entirely different: sensitively created, updating the historic, adding the new, and all the time reflecting the unique landscape and weather of this multifaceted island. Winning awards around the world, Irish architects are re-making ideas of Ireland too.

To discover more, check out the annual Open House Dublin this October 11-13 (openhousedublin. com), which offers the chance to get behind closed doors, whether in grand public buildings, or in some extremely intriguing and inspirational private homes.

THE ADVISORS

DMVF

Colm Doyle, Lisa McVeigh and John Flood set up DMVF in 2006. Flood remembers wanting to be an architect since he was seven, having seen drawings of a new church being built in the parish. His mother, he says, has a different story: “Their friend was taking me to the beach. He had a really nice car.

When I heard he was an architect, I said I wanted to be one too … I’m still waiting to drive a nice car though!”

Knowing how small interventions can hugely improve our lives, the practice published a book, Make the Home You Love, written with Fiona McPhillips.

Last year the event saw more than 31,000 people discovering the delights of gable ends, cantilevers, ingenious extensions and Gothic extravaganzas, while highlights this year include the new Museum of Literature Ireland (MoLI) at Newman House, James Joyce’s alma mater.

Or visit the Victorian-era Smithfield Fruit and Vegetable Market – a last chance to see it in its beloved old state, before refurbishment work begins – or the always popular Áras an Uachtaráin, the historic home of the Irish president.

October also sees Open House open doors in all corners of the globe (openhouseworldwide. org) including Cork, Limerick and Belfast, plus Barcelona, Chicago, London, New York and many more exciting cities.

“People get lots of things wrong when doing house extensions and they can be expensive mistakes. Good design makes a difference to quality of life. Changes range from the small to the big: simple things like allowing more natural light into someone’s home or creating a better flow,” says Flood.

Doyle lives in an old bank that he converted, creating a restaurant below and apartment above. “I think there is so much wasted space at upper levels throughout Dublin that could be put to better use,” he says. The team works on commercial projects as well as homes, and are hugely enthused by Dublin’s rich history. “We’re surrounded by amazing Georgian and Victorian stock, and it

is difficult not to get carried away. The mix of old and new really excites us, especially how a beautifully designed modern extension can sit perfectly against the backdrop of the historic building,” says McVeigh. dmvf.ie Favourite part of Ireland?

Flood: “It has to be Dublin. A walkable, easy city to live in, a European capital that’s modern and vibrant, with a rich history. There are stunning examples of architecture including the Medieval cathedrals, the Georgian squares and Michael Scott’s Busáras.”

Visit Colm Doyle’s home, right, during Open House Dublin 2019.

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PEOPLE

THE DREAMERS

McGARRY-MOON

Jessica McGarry and Steven Moon work from their award-winning Fallahogey Studio, a stone’s throw from where they live in Kilrea, Co Derry. Their work takes tradition and updates it, to make something new and exciting but still comfortable with the landscape.

McGarry had always wanted to be an architect. “I just happened to stumble into it after coming from a family involved in construction,” says Moon, self-deprecatingly, although that combination of practicality and creativity is a must. Since setting up the practice in 2004, their commissions range from urban extensions and projects in London, Edinburgh and Belfast, to rural one-offs that use local materials to pull off the rare feat of adding beauty to their settings.

Still, it’s their own Fallahogey they’re most proud of. “It’s proof that something dreamed up in a tiny flat, two years after graduation, can become a reality,” says McGarry. “Books speak of how we desire that special place that is purely our own, as we did as children, when we made a den under the kitchen table, or in the garden on lazy summer days. They often reflect how architecture is the stuff of daydreams, how the environment shapes these dreams; and the realisation of these dreams, in return, shapes our environment. Quite simply, Fallahogey is that for me.” mcgarry-moon.com Favourite place in Ireland? McGarry: “Sligo, my home town and county, is simply beautiful. It has fuelled the imaginations of painters, poets and musicians.” Moon: “Anywhere with a good golf course …”

Jewellery . Giftware . Dining www.newbridgesilverware.com

NEW THE SAPPHO COLLECTION

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PEOPLE

THE GLOBETROT TERS

McCULLOUGH MULVIN

THE VANGUARD

O’DONNELL + TUOMEY

From the multi award-winning Glucksman Gallery in Cork, to the similarly decorated Timberyard social housing project in Dublin, via the Lyric Theatre, Belfast, a university in Budapest, to new projects for the V&A and Sadler’s Wells in London – plus urban masterplans across continental Europe – Sheila O’Donnell and John Tuomey have been at the vanguard of Ireland’s new architectural golden age.

“We’re interested in the character and presence of buildings,” says O’Donnell, who met Tuomey in the first year studio at UCD. The couple set up their practice in 1988. “Also, seats and steps, canopies and terraced landscapes,” she continues. “We use these elements to extend the world of a building beyond its physical boundaries.”

This care and consideration continues to the design of fittings and furniture. “We always learn from the craftspeople we collaborate with.”

Growing up drawing on the back of his father’s engineering blueprints, Tuomey says that successful architecture isn’t about shape or style, but about relationships. In practice that means both between building and site, and architect and client. You need a shared sense of purpose. In Ireland, Connemara is the retreat, while Rome is a favourite place, “for its beauty and urban intensity, and the reminder that the ancient is always shockingly new”. odonnell-tuomey.ie Which famous building do you wish you had designed?

Tuomey: “It’s possible to feel jealous of a different building every day, depending on where we are. In New York, I think the old Whitney, now the Met Breuer. In London, our architect’s treasure house would be the John Soane museum.”

Valerie Mulvin and Niall McCullough came at architecture in very different ways. McCullough’s father was an engineer and conservationist, while Mulvin says her earliest connection was “looking curiously at a French stamp showing Le Corbusier’s chapel Ronchamp … As children, we never thought we would actually go anywhere,” she says.

But go places they have, since 1986, as the highly distinguished practice has made magic by updating historic buildings, and creating magnificent new builds including libraries, art galleries, universities and homes for lucky clients in Ireland. And, from a monastery in Italy’s Siena, to a huge university project in India’s Punjab, the world is also their architectural oyster. The team is deliberately small, so that they can continue to discuss projects in a collaborative way: “We want to produce intelligent and original work and that’s the way we see to do it,” explains McCullough.

The studio is Dublin-based, “we are dedicated to city life and deeply interested in its history and architecture, working on making contemporary interventions to the historic fabric – so it suits in every way,” says McCullough, who also writes eloquently on architectural themes. “Getting to re-use old buildings, making radical proposals which respect their character, yet move them on, is a huge pleasure,” he adds. Although, buildings such as the Temple Bar Gallery and Studios, the Douglas Hyde Gallery and the Ussher Library at Trinity College Dublin demonstrate that they are also very much at home with the new. mcculloughmulvin.com Which famous building do you wish you had designed? McCullough: “The Museum Building in Trinity College by Deane and Woodward.

Anything by Louis Kahn.”

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PEOPLE

THE MAVERICK

RYAN W. KENNIHAN

“I did what any ambitious, hardworking young graduate would do, I followed my girlfriend to Ireland,” says Chicago-born Ryan Kennihan.

The move worked out: the couple got married and Kennihan set up his practice in 2007. “Well-timed,” he says, wryly. “Just before the great recession. But we were small and nimble, so we were able to survive.” Size matters in architecture and many prefer to keep things small, allowing for a strong connection to every project.

The studios are in Dublin’s Mountjoy Square, in a Georgian building, which Kennihan loves.

“The beauty is remarkable for its timelessness. These are historic buildings and yet their brick structure and clean lines give them a very modern aesthetic. It’s the perfect place for our office, because it is precisely this kind of enduring beauty that we try to achieve.”

When starting a project, the team look closely at the traditional buildings and culture in the area, to use as a design basis. Their awardwinning Leagaun House in Galway is testament to this approach. It is a new, modern building with that timeless feel. “Whether we are working in Ireland, Paris or Pennsylvania, we always look back and look forwards simultaneously, building on tradition in a way that is absolutely contemporary. But a building is only successful if it can have a profoundly positive effect on people’s lives,” he adds. rwka.com Favourite part of Ireland?

“The West. I’m drawn to its rugged, ‘edge of the Earth’ feel. There’s something primal about its landscape and atmosphere that you cannot find anywhere else: all the more essential in our synthetic, media-saturated lives.”

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PEOPLE

THE UPDATERS

GKMP

Dublin-based GKMP are Grace Keeley, right, Michael Pike, left, Paul Durcan and Phoebe Brady. As well as working on houses and housing projects, they have also designed public spaces, such as the Parade in Kilkenny and the Waterford Viking Triangle. Defining their architecture as high quality and modern, they also have a truly sensitive feel for the context of a place.

Their “Georgian Acupuncture” project in Dublin was commended for updating a historic house, inserting contemporary interventions “like pieces of furniture. We are currently working on a similar reuse project at a much larger scale at St Senan’s Hospital in Enniscorthy, a vast, red-brick structure dating from the 1860s. The plan is to accommodate 70 generous apartments on the site, with support facilities such as a restaurant and swimming pool,” says Keeley.

With a preference for materials in their natural state, and buildings that reveal how they were made, Pike believes that “clients today are forward thinking. They are travelling a lot, many have lived abroad and want to bring some aspects of those experiences to their projects.” And the best way to get the most out of your architect? Trust. Clients “who are flexible and open to sometimes radical suggestions can really see a project develop beyond their expectations”, says Keeley. gkmp.ie Which famous building do you wish you had designed?

Pike: “The Castelvecchio Museum in Verona by Carlo Scarpa: an inspiring project involving the restoration of a Medieval castle, carefully balancing old and new. The new floors never touch the original walls so it is always clear what is new and what is old.”

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ENDURE TO CONQUER Marathon swimmers flock to Kinsale’s Sandycove Beach for a special kind of training camp, known colloquially as “The Torture Swim”.

WORDS ELAINE K HOWLEY PHOTOGRAPHS RUTH CONNOLLY

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“T

here’s all sorts of crap that happens,” Ned Denison says to a rapt audience of about 60 shivering swimmers gathered around a picnic table at windswept Sandycove Beach outside Kinsale, Co Cork. Unbothered by overcast skies and drizzle, the swimmers sip tea and soup on this perfect Irish summer day, as they listen to Denison’s preparatory speech about tomorrow’s big, hairy adventure.

The impending two- to four-hour swim training event, called the Torture Swim, is the crowning jewel in Denison’s nine-daylong Cork Distance Week (CDW) training camp that attracts veteran and would-be marathon swimmers from around the world (sandycovewebbook.wordpress. com). Just one session out of some 15 that range from 1.6km to 14km over the course of a week-plus, the Torture Swim is where Denison – well acquainted with the mental games this unheralded sport can play on its practitioners – gets to dish out as much as these hardy souls can take in a bid to toughen them up for the vagaries

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of crossing open oceans in nothing but a swimming costume, cap and goggles.

“Lots of things can happen in the Torture Swim. The whole purpose of tomorrow is to make you uncomfortable physically, emotionally, mentally,” Denison adds. And he means it. Swimmers have cried with frustration, become delirious with cold and exhaustion, but have never been unsafe over the past ten years as Denison and his team of volunteers work to disrupt any sense of time, space, and accomplishment these swimmers may have built up in the preceding several days. This exquisite anguish is doled out with love, all in the name of readying participants for one of the biggest days of their lives – a solo swim across the English Channel or whichever cold-water marathon swim they’ve selected to tackle. Graduates of the camp have gone on to set open-ocean records and pioneer new routes in ultra-swimming, which is defined as distances greater than 32km in open (and often very cold) water completed without wetsuits.

Part aquatic ringmaster, part pied piper

Opening pages, back to basics, swimmers take their places for Cork Distance Week. This page, walking in water, the apprehensive calm before diving right in at Myrtleville Beach, Co Kerry.

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Above left, wave power and, right, bathing costume drama, as a group of swimmers listen to a pep talk from Ned Denison at Sandycove. Next page, clockwise from top, Melanie Holland in her element; briny shelled beauties at Kinsale’s Man Friday restaurant; Ned Denison himself on the pier, taking a break in between commandeering Cork Distance Week; a post swim treat.

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of an esoteric athletic pursuit that’s been seeing a big resurgence in recent years, in part because of camps like his, Denison is a 61-year-old American expat marathon swimmer who’s lived in Co Cork since 2001.

The extraordinarily tall, former elite water polo player launched the camp in 2009 as marathon swimming began flourishing in the UK and Ireland, and over the past decade, he’s drawn an ever-growing and enthusiastic crowd of fellow masochists to his superlative corner of the world to partake in some of the best training in the world.

Participants in the annual CDW camp have ranged from neophyte long-distance swimmers to ultra-marathon legends. This year’s youngest official participant was 15-year-old Vera Rivard of New Hampshire, who in July 2018 became the youngest person ever to swim solo across the 40kmlong Lake Memphremagog in northern Vermont and southern Canada. (Her younger sister Margaret, age 12, tagged along to Sandycove and completed most of the swims as well – not an indication of how easy the swims are, but of how remarkable these young women are in their determination to build stamina and confidence for even longer, tougher swims.)

At the other end of the spectrum, American Liz Fry, a 2013 inductee to the International Marathon Swimming Hall of Fame (IMSHOF), and Hungarian Attila Mányoki, a former professional marathon swimmer and fellow IMSHOF inductee, have already crossed more bodies of water than most people can name. A throng of Irish swimmers, a smattering of Brits, a pair of Germans, and a swimming family from Australia round out the group.

Looking around at the squad, you wouldn’t necessarily deduce that world-class athletes are in attendance; unlike some sports, marathon swimming favours bulkier people who carry around their midsections the reserves to go the distance in frigid water.

The camp centres on goat-inhabited Sandycove Island, a dome-shaped rock rising out of the Celtic Sea 100 metres offshore. Nestled just four kilometres outside Kinsale, one of Ireland’s most colourful seaside resorts, a loop around Sandycove Island measures about 1.6km, and swimmers complete as many loops as they can during the week. The fastest swimmers can rack up some 95km over the course of the camp. Others like to sightsee, and tuck waterproof cameras into their

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A stop at Lough Hyne to play in the rapids that drain and fill this unique marine lake topped off a day of adventure

Above left, first class – smiling swimmers on dry land at Myrtleville Beach and, right, Kinsale seascape and sky.

KINSALE

togs to capture the scenery as they explore rocky outcroppings and seaweed-laden coves along the shoreline.

The setting is pretty, no doubt, but it’s the consistently cold water, perpetually unpredictable weather and Denison’s swimmer tribe that are the real draws for most of the swimmers.

Sandycove acts as home base for CDW, but the camp also features excursions to other spectacular swimming holes throughout Co Cork, mixing world-class swim training with a heavy dose of wet sightseeing. During one such excursion, swimmers had the option of tackling either a 5.5km loop around Spanish Island or a 10.5km ring of Ringarogy Island, both in Baltimore Harbour. A stop at Lough Hyne to play in the rapids that drain and fill this unique marine lake topped off a day of adventure that involved seals, mucky mud and an all-you-can-eat curry stop at Annie Mays (anniemays.ie) in Skibbereen.

One highlight is the Triple Crown dinner, during which swimmers who’ve completed solo crossings of the Catalina Channel in California, a loop around Manhattan Island in New York and a

solo crossing of the English Channel, are feted for their feats. This year’s event was held at Kinsale’s harbourside Trident Hotel (tridenthotel.com), a fitting name for the place to celebrate a three-pronged swimming series that only about 220 people worldwide have completed.

The accolades are fun for sure but for most of CDW’s ardent fans – many of whom return year after year for more delicious torture – the real reward is in the water. Case in point, after an evening swim at Myrtleville Beach, a horseshoe bay rife with strong tides and weever fish outside Cork city, I and several of my Boston-area swim-mates decided to stay local for dinner, landing at the luscious Bunnyconnellan Bar and Restaurant (bunnyconnellan.ie) perched on a bluff overlooking Myrtleville’s graceful, green arc. As we tucked into our hard-earned meals, that most quintessential of all Irish travel experiences – a rainbow – appeared, with both ends terminating in the bay’s now quiet waters. A sign no doubt that our swimming experiences along Ireland’s southern coast were indeed the proverbial pot of gold.

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KINSALE

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS impressive views of Kinsale’s stunning inner harbour from its perch overlooking the town. Friendly and accommodating waitstaff fuss over every delicious detail in this attractive, modern space. An impressive wine list and bubbly on draught offer just the right tipple to complement some of the best steaks you’ll find anywhere. (Scilly, 021 477 2260; manfridaykinsale.ie) WHOLESOME For reasonably priced, excellent quality food delivered in a bright, family-friendly dining room, head to The White House in the heart of Kinsale.

Attached to a guesthouse, the bar and restaurant offer a taste of something for everyone and are able to accommodate large groups. (Pearse St, 021 477 2125; whitehouse-kinsale.ie) HISTORIC For blow-ins, no trip to Ireland would be complete without a stop at a traditional Irish pub. Painted a vibrant, butternut-squash orange and filled with open hearths and a rummage sale of cosy furniture, The Spaniard was built on the foundations of an old castle in 1650 and named after Don Juan d’Aquila, hero of 1601’s Battle of Kinsale. (Scilly, 021 477 2436; thespaniard.ie)

STAY SOPHISTICATED At street level, renowned Irish photographer Giles Norman’s artistry takes centre stage, while above his gallery sit four high quality guest rooms, each appointed with multiple Norman prints and stylish, contemporary furnishings. The Giles Norman Townhouse’s elegant, modern-Georgian accommodation, offset by exposed brickwork and bare beams, above, allows quick access to all of Kinsale’s cultural offerings. Rooms from €150. (45 Main Street, 021 477 4373; gilesnorman.com) CLASSIC Renovated in early 2016, the Old Bank House’s charming 17 guest rooms mix contemporary and classic design into a cosy, inviting atmosphere. Winner of the 2018 Georgina Campbell Guest House

of the Year award, this elegantly restored Georgian building originally housed the Munster and Leinster Bank. Rooms from €125. (10/11 Pearse Street, 021 477 4075; oldbankhousekinsale.com) WATERFRONT If you want to truly enjoy Kinsale’s vibrant waterfront, look no further than the Pier House B&B for clean, crisp harbourside accommodation. Spacious, quiet rooms belie their proximity to all that central Kinsale has to offer, and a friendly owner goes the distance for guests.

Rooms from €130. (Pier Road, 021 477 4169; pierhousekinsale.com)

EAT ELEGANT Of Kinsale’s many restaurants, Man Friday provides perhaps the most

SMART TIPS COMPETITIVE SPIRIT Swimmers must wrangle an invitation to attend Cork Distance Week and need to arrive healthy and ready to tackle some challenging conditions. In addition to more than a dozen daily training sessions, swimmers also have the opportunity to participate in the Vibes & Scribes Swim (leeswim.ie), a two-kilometre race down the River Lee in Cork that was first contested in 1914.

WILD DIPPING If you’re considering taking the plunge in open water, seek an experienced guide to orient you around the sport and learn where it’s safe to go.

For example, weever fish congregate in the shallows of Myrtleville Beach. A shuffling step while entering the water is highly advisable to keep their painful, tiny spikes from ruining your day at the beach.

PASTURES NEW

Once known as the Borscht Belt, the Catskills in Hudson Valley, New York, has become a magnet for Brooklyn creatives attracted by cheaper rents, a slower pace and atmospheric landscapes.

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS

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“V

aried, undulating and exceedingly beautiful outlines – [the Catskill Mountains] heave from the valley of the Hudson like the subsiding billows of the ocean after a storm.” Pastoral painter Thomas Cole (1801-1848) waxed lyrical about the area in his 1835 Essay on American Scenery and, even in the 21st century, you’d be hard pushed to quibble. In many ways this beauty spot in Mid-Hudson and Upstate New York remains a time capsule, with sweeping views, two-horse hamlets, clapboard houses and tumbledown barns.

But for all the region’s epic scenery and steadfast air, there are changes afoot: the Brooklyners are coming, and with them an arsenal of vinyl, haute horticulture, textiles, antiques and centrefold-worthy furniture.

They are not the first blow-ins. The decades between the 1920s and 1960s saw Jewish New Yorkers build holiday homes and attend summer camps (see Kellerman’s in Dirty Dancing and The Marvelous Mrs

CATSKILLS

Maisel), hence the nickname “Borscht Belt”.

There were German settlers and also Irish, who were so abundant in East Durham, Greene County, during the 1950s and 1960s that it was dubbed “The Irish Alps”.

A smatter of tricolour and Our Lady statues remain, house signs with O’Surnames and a tea room, in which Barry’s Tea is served in polystyrene cups. Meanwhile, the MJQ Irish Cultural and Sports Centre (mjqirishcentre.com), complete with a 200-year-old cottage shipped in from Donegal, promotes the popular annual Catskills Irish Arts Week and East Durham Irish Festival every summer.

Cheap air travel from the 1980s spelled the end of the Catskills’ heyday and yet, these days, the Hudson Valley is seeing a steady stream of New York City creatives migrating north for a lower cost of living and a higher quality of life. One such Renaissance woman is Liverpudlian Diane Ormrod, who moved to America in 1981 and went on to forge a successful

Opening pages, left, beautiful desolation and, right, Todd Carr of Hort and Pott contemplates the life of a horticulturalist. This page, clockwise from top left, engaging and welcoming, Diane Ormrod, of DeWitt Oak Hill, a guesthouse of curiosities; a delightfully ramshackle Catskills property; a detail of Catskills scrub.

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There are just four guest rooms but, oh, what rooms they are … each one individually designed, furnished and styled

CATSKILLS

publishing and advertising career in New York City. There, at Assouline book publishers, she met Parisienne and fellow interior-design maven Dorothée Walliser: the pair eventually quit Manhattan and set up business together, French & Scouser, a vintage sourcing and styling company based at their superb DeWitt Oak Hill guesthouse (thedewittoakhill.com), an 1865 inn in the Catskills’ sleepy nook of Oak Hill.

Ormrod already had an historic property in Durham, but they both that snapped up the two-storey DeWitt in 2014, with the idea of Walliser living and working onsite and sharing innkeeper duties.

It was quite the restoration project.

The DeWitt had no heating, insulation, plumbing – only one toilet – and limited electricity. After months of blood, sweat and tears, though, and an unerring loyalty to

This page, atmosphere in spades, a view from the Rip Van Winkle Bridge on the Hudson River. Next page, clockwise from top left, the Catskill Mountain Country Store and Restaurant, Tannersville; charming Abby Chalmers at Upstream Wine and Spirits; a traditional barn and silo with mountain ski runs in the background; mercantile maven, Chris Gordon, curator-proprietor of IU Tripp & Co and Mattice boutique.

the building’s heritage, Ormrod and Walliser received their first guests the following year. There are just four guest rooms but, oh, what rooms they are … each one has been individually designed, furnished and styled, with most of its contents for sale.

The communal living room, mezzanine level and landing are elegantly festooned with furniture and trinkets from across time and place, from apothecary bottles to 1960s chintz to Modernist chairs. It is only the pitter patter of tiny feet – all 16 of them, in the shape of Ormrod and Walliser’s rescue dogs: the Brussels Griffons Lola (flirt) and Dolly (mummy’s girl), boxer Romeo (flatulent) and the elegant hybrid Toby (timorous) – that pull you back to the here and now.

Our indefatigable host Ormrod sent us down a rabbit hole of local recommendations over superbly homecooked three-course breakfasts, and introduced us to her bohemian friends, among them authors, artists, textile designers, stylists, horticulturalists, videographer-producers, drag queens.

Almost all had fled the gentrification of New York City – Brooklyn, chiefly – and inadvertently created a libertarian

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Rows of vinyl in the storefront belie the building’s 19th-century heritage

bubble in an otherwise conservative region where fishing tackle and firearms can be purchased in the same store. Next door lives one of Brooklyn’s best loved record shops, labels and club nights – Paul Nickerson’s Dope Jams, reinvented here as Preserved Instincts (preservedinstincts. com) in 2013. Rows of vinyl in the storefront belie the building’s 19th-century heritage, while inside is a church to dance music, literally, with reconditioned stained-glass windows behind Nickerson’s DJ booth and Gothic doors. Giant, custom-made speakers throb from each corner and rows of neatly arranged sleeves in different genres rub shoulders, from obscure techno, hip-hop and jazz to dad rock and ABBA (really) against a backdrop of esoteric knickknacks.

There’s a high-tech recording studio and a bar out back, making for some of the street’s most infamous house parties … but none more so than the summer parties he and

his wife Monica have hosted for some 400 revellers, mostly from NYC and Boston, on the umpteenth hectares they rent from a local farmer across the Catskills Creek.

A few doors down are Todd Carr (New Jersey) and Carter Harrington (Virginia), who met in – you guessed it – Brooklyn and now run Hort and Pott (hortandpott.com), a self-proclaimed “Uncommon Goods” store that reflects their passion for horticulture and applied arts. Carr was formerly a senior garden editor at Martha Stewart Living and here they both run craft and floristry workshops, sculpt concrete into homewares for foraged moss and create wreaths for Halloween and Christmas.

Harrington confesses to getting his NYC fix during the quiet winter months. “There’s nothing to do here, in a good way – more productive, less distractions – but it’s really fun in summer with all the music festivals and events.” While their life in Oak Hill

Clockwise from top left, chef Bob Turner’s fetching scallops at The Stewart House; Roscoe, a fly-fishing haven; “draw me like one of your French girls ...”

Lola strikes a pose at DeWitt Oak Hill guesthouse.

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couldn’t be more different, the Catskills are a breath of fresh air.

There’s a similar story further up the road at IU Tripp & Co. Chris Gordon was a design director for Ralph Lauren and Tory Burch and now runs his parents’ shop, a former provisions store dating back to 1888. Inside is an Aladdin’s cave of Gordon’s carefully curated collectables: a set-piece of colour-coded crockery, gleaming glassware, unopened stacks of dead stock shirts from the 1950s, patented family recipe root beer syrup from nearby Heather Ridge Farm, loose leaf Duke and Duchess tea from Britain’s Chatsworth House, Catskills honey lollipops, locally handmade geranium soap … the lovely list goes on.

“Brooklyn’s gentrification has displaced creative people,” Gordon says, adding, “here I can have three shops. And in spring I can open my bedroom window and smell the lilacs”. His second shop is Mattice, housed in the pristine Greek Revival Georgian building across the road. It opened this summer and sells “exceptional, wearable vintage” – even the 18th-century military jacket on display looks like it was made yesterday. Watch this space for his third enterprise.

And that’s just one small patch in Oak Hill. Heading southwest are surprises in Narrowsburg, along the Delaware River, specifically Sunny’s Pop (sunnyspop.com), a chi-chi yet unpretentious lifestyle store owned by Sunrise Ruffalo, wife of the actor Mark, the pair having called the Catskills home for 20 years. Half an hour away, on Main Street in Livingston Manor, is the community-minded Upstream Wine

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and Spirits (upstreamwine.com), which specialises in sustainable, biodynamic and organic wines. A few doors down, wolf a Beaverkill smoked trout sandwich with a chaser of muddled blueberry lemonade at the café and delicatessen Main Street Farm (mainstreetfarm.com), not forgetting that the scenery around the Catskills is immense, with no short of hikes, whitewater rafting, fly fishing, camping, A-frame lodging and mountain cycling in summer and skiing in winter.

Bushwick and Williamsburg have had their place in the sun but now it’s time for Upstate New York to shine. Its creatives woke up, smelled the artisanal coffee and realised they could drink it at a fraction of the cost in the fresh, mountain air of the Catskills, a chameleonic outback that is as fascinating as it is undulating.

Top left, Romeo catches some Z’s at the DeWitt and, above, wax connoisseur and party impresario Paul Nickerson of Preserved Instincts. Next page, a well-curated cheese plate at The Stewart House.

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The house nestles in its site amid gardens laid to lawn, surrounded by granite walls, with the natural woodland setting of old pine trees providing shelter and serenity, with the smell of the sea and eucalyptus trees adding to the sensory effect.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY OLDE WORLDE Staying at The DeWitt Oak Hill guesthouse is like staying with old friends – albeit in a house of curiosities.

Diane and Dorothée’s personal touch, from their antique finds to local intel to superb Gallic-inspired breakfasts, makes it a standout lodging. Daylight melts into quirky, comfy rooms and although the property dates back to 1865, showers are hot and high-tech. Book one of the back rooms and let the burbling Catskills Creek provide your nightly lullaby. B&B from $165.

(7803 NY-81, Oak Hill, +1 518 239 6953; thedewittoakhill.com) DAPPER Understated and unpretentious, the 14-room The DeBruce is the fanciest of Foster Supply Hospitality’s Catskills lodgings and dates back to the 1880s.

Handsome from the outside – rocking chairs on a front porch and sweeping views of the Willowemoc Valley out back – it’s a looker on the inside, too, with masculine soft furnishings and a dining room with one incredible panorama. Bedrooms are small but chic – stylish bathrooms are generous – while guests can avoid cabin fever loafing around The DeBruce’s 240 hectares of private land, including fly-fishing on a stretch of private river. Chef Aksel Theilkuhl’s dishes linger in the memory long after the last bite, each ingredient sourced from within New York state. B&B from $399, including a 12-course dinner. (982 Debruce Rd, Livingston Manor, +01 845 439 3900; fostersupplyco.com) SCENESTER Dirty Dancing and Twin Peaks spring to mind – in a good way – at Glen Falls House, a hip hideout run by nightclub aficionado Greg Brier of Groovejet, Miami and The Good Room, Brooklyn fame, and Jonathan Picco of Surf Lodge, Montauk. The pair rescued the former holiday camp resort two years ago, giving the 1881 farmstead building a new lease of life with design-forward guest rooms and a vibey restaurant and bar, Trotwood. There are also cottages and hilltop motels, a pool and – as to be expected – a lively nightlife programme.

Rooms from $150. (230 Winter Clove Rd, Round Top, +1 518 622 9363; glenfallshouse.com)

EAT SIMPLE, EFFECTIVE A food truck success story, Gracie’s Luncheonette in Leeds is also a sit-in diner that uses only farm-to-table produce. Get your chops around Mexican morsels on Taco Thursdays, which, despite the name, also proffers finger-lickin’ nachos, tostadas and quesadillas. Don’t be shy to order the Mezcal Mule … (969 Main St, Leeds, +1 518 943 9363; graciestruckny.com) BEAUTIFUL The Stewart House, above, on Athens’ waterfront, is a triumph in considered design and hospitality. Opened as a guesthouse in 1883 – and featured in the 1982 film Sophie’s Choice – its nine bright guest rooms have been receiving guests since 2018, after a respectful restoration. It’s all lovely but this writer specifically swooned at the original 1930s bar in the ground floor tavern – the antique tin ceiling and wall paintings by muralist Nora Johnson are also glorious – where Chef Bob Turner sends out pitch-perfect, farm-fresh fare: be sure, too, to nibble on the white soda bread, a passed-down recipe from Turner’s Co Clare ancestors.

(2 North Water St, Athens, +1 518 444 8317; stewarthouse.com) RETRO Daytime joint Phoenicia Diner is well worth the detour if you’re anywhere near Route 28. The diner was formerly located in Long Island until it was moved in its entirety to the Catskills in 1982. When the Brooklyn-based Mike Cioffi sold his TV

and set design business nearly a decade ago, he snapped up the diner and restored it to its former glory, retaining its large, plate-glass windows, booth and bar seating and long Formica counter. Its menu harks back to the golden era of diners; however, this ain’t no greasy spoon, with perfectly sized portions made from mostly regionally sourced meat, veg and fish. Try and leave room for a bourbon milkshake or risk deep FOMO. (5681 NY-28, +1 845 688 9957; phoeniciadiner.com)

SMART TIP ORIENTATION The Hudson Valley comprises ten counties and has three designated areas – Upper, Mid-Hudson, and Lower – although boundaries between Upstate and Downstate New York are nebulous and sociopolitically divisive.

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COFFEE

FOOD

CULTURE

Bewley’s Grafton Street has long been regarded as an ever-enduring part of what Dublin is. It is even considered one of the great cafés of Europe. A crucible of artistic and literary creativity, alive with stories still being told, it is a warm respite in any day. Across the length and breadth of Ireland, Bewley’s Grafton Street is engrained in the culture of the place – the legendary Lofty Clattery Café.

Those that have stepped through our doors speak of the unparalleled coffee and tea experience—the coffee roasted on-site and the smell of freshly baked bread. While in the Café, be sure to take the time to marvel at the art on display from world-renowned artists, such as Paddy Campbell, Harry Clarke, Jim McCann and Pauline Bewick.

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BILLIE ZANGEWA BY ANKE KOOTS FOR ICON MAGAZINE / PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE SMITHSONIAN

10 DESTINATION MUSEUMS

New season, new reasons to head indoors and enjoy exquisite art and artefacts. Shayna Sappington celebrates the hero institutions.

1 NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART WASHINGTON DC Recently doubling its collection by female artists, the Smithsonian National Museum of African Art is having a moment.

I Am … Contemporary Women Artists of Africa, on show until July 5, 2020, explores the vast diversity of the African continent, investigating layers of racism, sexism, oppression and empowerment. Profound complexities weave through works including Wangechi Mutu’s Tree Woman sculpture, Toyin Ojih Odutola’s Untitled, a masterful use of ballpoint pen on paper that prompts questions of identity and perception, and fashion and textile works by the Malawian artist Billie Zangewa, above. africa.si.edu Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Washington DC daily.

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DESTINATION MUSEUMS

2 GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM BILBAO Designed by distinguished architect Frank Gehry, the Guggenheim building is as stunning as the contemporary artwork it houses. Currently on display is the futuristic aesthetic of Venezuelan artist Jesús Rafael Soto, in Soto. The Fourth Dimension, and more than 130 works by acclaimed German photographer Thomas Struth. And from October 25, see iconic German and French artwork circa the Romantic era through to Expressionism in the expansive Masterpieces from the Collection of the Kunsthalle Bremen: From Delacroix to Beckmann. guggenheim-bilbao.eus

3 RIJKSMUSEUM AMSTERDAM

4 MUSEUM OF MODERN ART NEW YORK

We may be nearing the end of 2019 but culture vultures can still enjoy the Rijksmuseum’s commemorations marking the 350th anniversary of Rembrandt’s death. From October 11 until January 19, 2020, it presents RembrandtVelázquez: Dutch and Spanish Masters, a double-whammy exhibit in partnership with a fellow heavyweight, Madrid’s Museo Nacional del Prado, which celebrates its bicentenary this year.

Displayed side-by-side are works by Rembrandt and Velázquez but also by Murillo, Hals, Zurbarán and more, each created during the Netherlands’ fight for independence from Spain. rijksmuseum.nl

The wait is over: the Big Apple’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) has been renovated and reopens its doors on October 21. Expanded galleries will host new and revisited works, performances and events, its launch exhibitions including The Legends of Black Girl’s Window

by Betye Saar, left, in which the artist’s experimental print practice addresses ancestry and mysticism, an electronic sound installation by David Tudor and Composers Inside Electronics Inc, while Private Lives Public Spaces marks MoMA’s first designated gallery of home movies and amateur films. moma.org

ERIK SMITS

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Amsterdam multiple times daily.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily and from Shannon six times per week.

MICHELE MATTEI. BETYE SAAR. 2012. THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART ARCHIVES, NEW YORK. © MICHELE MATTEI. © 2019 BETYE SAAR, COURTESY THE ARTIST AND ROBERTS PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bilbao up to eight times per week.

DESTINATION MUSEUMS

©MUSÉE D’ORSAY - SOPHIE CRÉPY

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5 VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM LONDON

A temple to applied and decorative arts and design, the V&A always punches above its weight in the fashion department. No exception is its Mary Quant exhibition – swinging until February 2020 – which features more than 200 pieces, from her rebellious miniskirt to groovy-baby makeup and much in between. Deep-dive further with a weekend course, British Fashion: 1955-Present (October 5-6; £195), appraising how the dynamite designer reshaped British fashion in the 1960s, inspiring the likes of Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. vam.ac.uk Aer Lingus flies from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London airports multiple times daily.

Arguably overshadowed by The Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay is a hot ticket at any time of year. Running until January 2020, check out Yan Pei-Ming’s A Burial in Shanghai, which reimagines Gustave Courbet’s A Burial at Ornans – 2019 marks the 200th anniversary of the French Master’s birth – while Degas at the Opera explores the Impressionist artist’s passion for precision, motion and contrasts of light, and on October 11-12 is Paris Opera Ballet’s Degas Danse, a multimedia performance. musee-orsay.fr Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris four times daily and from Cork daily.

7 BAUHAUS MUSEUM DESSAU DESSAU-ROSSLAU This year marks the Bauhaus centennial and, on September 8, its dedicated museum in Dessau opened to much fanfare. Walter Gropius’ original Bauhaus art school opened in Weimar, Germany before fascism forced these new bohemian artists, architects and designers to pastures new, ie a campus in Dessau, before they were uprooted again to Berlin in the 1930s. All three sites are now UNESCO protected and the Dessau exhibit, Versuchstätte Bauhaus. The Collection, charts the design movement’s history through some 49,000 objects, from furniture to ceramics, across the sympathetically restored campus. bauhaus-dessau.de Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin up to 14 times per week.

ERICH CONSEMÜLLER, SITZENDE MIT BÜHNENMASKE VON OSKAR SCHLEMMER IM STAHLROHRSESSEL VON MARCEL BREUER (UM 1926) © DR. STEPHAN CONSEMÜLLER / BAUHAUS-ARCHIV BERLIN

6 MUSÉE D’ORSAY PARIS

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DESTINATION MUSEUMS

8 NATIONAL GALLERY OF IRELAND DUBLIN Prolong the dappled days of summer with a visit to the National Gallery of Ireland’s latest exhibition, Sorolla: Spanish Master of Light. Soft light spills on to water, interiors, textiles and courtyards in this 50-piece display of Joaquín Sorolla’s paintings in the Beit Wing until November 3. Visit on October 17 at 6.30pm for Dr Sineád Furlong-Clancy’s hour-long lecture “Sorolla and the Legacy of Impressionism”. nationalgallery.ie

10 MUSEO REINA SOFÍA MADRID The home of Picasso’s devastating Guernica, the Museo Reina Sofía has perfected the art of provocation. Until March 2020, its exhibition Defiant Muses: Delphine Seyrig and Feminist Video Collectives in France in the 1970s and 1980s documents a period of female emancipation as pioneered by French actor Seyrig (Last Year at Marienbad), who loathed being cast as the “feminine” ideal and joined activists such as Jane Fonda in the fight for gender equality and fair representation. Here, their combined broadcasts discuss abortion, the Vietnam War, sex workers’ rights and the anti-psychiatry movement. museoreinasofia.es

9 THE MUSEUM OF FLIGHT SEATTLE JFK’s Air Force One, a Concorde 214, the rudimentary Aeronca C-2, aka The Flying Bathtub of 1929, NASA spacecraft and a working replica of Amelia Earhart’s ill-fated but beautifully Art Deco Lockheed 10-E Electra ... The Museum of Flight has it all and then some. There are also thrilling flight simulators, restoration tours, theatrical re-enactments, temporary exhibitions and a 3D theatre for big-screen adventures. museumofflight.org Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Seattle up to five times per week.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Madrid up to 11 times per week.

TOP, JOAQUÍN SOROLLA Y BASTIDA / SEWING THE SAIL (CUCENDO LA VELA), 1896 / 2019 © PHOTO ARCHIVE – FONDAZIONE MUSEI CIVICI DI VENEZIA; BOTTOM, JOAQUÍN CORTES & ROMÁIN LORES

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Offering close access to all major transport links, Kent Railway Station, Parnell Place Bus Station and The Black Ash Park & Ride facility are all within a few minutes’ walk of Lapp’s Quay.

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UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE Once upon a time in Hollywood … Universal Studios was a chicken farm. In 2019, it’s one of LA’s most popular visitor attractions, for its high-octane rides and real-life film sets.

WORDS SHAYNA SAPPINGTON PHOTOGRAPHS MATHEW SCOTT

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ver the past century, cinephiles have flocked to the “movie destination” that is Universal Studios Hollywood, to peek behind the velvet curtains and hopefully catch a glimpse of a real-life star – or at least touch a real-life film prop. But the theme park attraction wasn’t always synonymous with glitz and glamour: in 1915, the San Fernando Valley site used to be a 93-hectare chicken farm, called “Universal City Ranch”, with only a few movie sets. Universal Pictures’ founder Carl Laemmle (“Uncle Carl”) invited rubberneckers to come and watch their favourite stars perform live in silent, black and white Westerns and slapstick comedies for the bargain price of a quarter.

Audiences piled into rickety grandstands, munched on fried chicken dinners and watched stuntmen roll around in the dirt.

While the theme park still has working film lots, the present-day studios have a lot more 21st-century pizzazz: last year, more than nine million visitors scared

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themselves silly on its immersive, high-tech rollercoasters and simulator rides.

Located just 17 kilometres north of downtown Los Angeles and 25 kilometres from LAX, Universal Studios is divided into four sections: Super Silly Fun Land (designed for young children), Springfield (the Simpsons’ hometown), the Lower Lot (where you’ll find The Mummy, Transformers and the new Jurassic World ride) and, since 2016, The Wizarding World of Harry Potter, whose ominous, twinkling theme song ceaselessly lures in unsuspecting muggles. Full studio maps are available at the theme park entrance but there’s one on the Universal Studios app also, which handily includes live wait times and show times.

In October and November, the whole park transforms for the infamous Halloween Horror Nights (hollywood. halloweenhorrornights.com), where abhorrent characters – played by exuberant actors – lurk in dark, designated “scare zones” and “mazes”, which have been

Opening page, the Studio Tours keep on truckin’.

Above, Super Silly Fun Land is exactly what it says on the tin and has the grins to prove it. Next page, walk the red carpet at this most glamorous of theme parks.

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On The Mummy ride, the dead rise and riders fly forwards and backwards. Side effects include jitters, giggles and mild mania

Top, Universal Studios Hollywood has some epic views of Greater Los Angeles and, above, officer dribble takes command in between rides.

chillingly modelled on TV and big-screen thrillers, including Jordan Peele’s strikingly original Us, the Duffer Brothers’ Netflix hit Stranger Things and AMC’s zombie drama The Walking Dead. Only diehard horror fans need apply – most visitors are happy to get their kicks in the park’s Lower Lot, accessible by a foreshadowing drop of four escalators, where a life-size Velociraptor threatens those joining the queue for Jurassic World: The Ride.

The attraction first opened in 1996, modelled on the original Jurassic Park film trilogy, and was the most expensive amusement ride of all time, costing a hefty $110 million. It reopened this July with a considerable facelift and now features state-of-the art robotics as well

as the beloved – and here pre-recorded – characters of Owen (Chris Pratt) and Claire (Bryce Dallas Howard). Passengers climb aboard deceptively stable rafts and gently bob down a river, waving at wildlife along the way as dinosaurs leer cautiously from lush tropical tangles. A sparking electric fence and the cracked glass of an aquarium soon unsettles those on board, before a sharp-toothed T-Rex takes chase, forcing rafts down a 26-metre plunge … an unexpectedly delightful rush. Another thrill is the adjacent The Mummy ride, where the dead rise and riders fly forwards and backwards. Side effects include jitters, giggles and mild mania.

When midday tummy rumbles come a-knocking, a plethora of dining

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options are available within the park’s Universal CityWalk, which is filled with restaurants, cafés, ice cream parlours and bars. We, though, tried the taqueria Cocina Mexicana, located in the park’s main courtyard and just a churro’s throw away from Springfield. Tuck into a plate of juicy chicken tinga or beef tacos, paired with freshly fried tortilla chips, spicy salsa and a frozen lime margarita. Simpsons’ fans can find refreshment in Moe’s Tavern, where Duff’s beer is surprisingly delicious. During high season it’s difficult to get a seat – all elbows, loud voices and body odour – so take a cold one to-go before joining the Studio Tour, which starts next-door.

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Above left, large-scale misting fans are a tonic during the height of summer and, right, the Jurassic World ride makes a big splash.

Hosted by a virtual Jimmy Fallon, the Studio Tour is a must for movie buffs, who don’t necessarily want to get thrown around on fast rides. A comfortable tram takes passengers on an hour-long jaunt of the park’s back lot to see where the TV and movie magic happens. Here, you’ll pass by the studio sets of shows including The Good Place and Fast & Furious Presents: Hobbs & Shaw, as well as Desperate Housewives’ Wisteria Lane, the shapeshifting “Old Mexico” and a classic New York Street of brownstone townhouses (featured in Cast Away and Gone Girl).

These private sets began being constructed in the 1930s, with the arrival of the “talkies” era, but it wasn’t until 1964, when the Studio Tour opened to the public, with candy-striped “Glamor Trams”, designed by Willy Wonka’s art director Harper Goff, to shuttle tourists behind the scenes. Now, you can also cruise through the familiar sets of How the Grinch Stole Christmas’ Whoville, Jaws’ Amity Lake (with a not-so-surprising shark attack), a smouldering wreckage from Spielberg’s War of the Worlds and Hitchcock’s Psycho – where the tram pauses outside the

LUNCH & DINNER

ROOFTOP TERRACE DINING WITH RIVER VIEWS Breakfast * Lunch * Dinner “A vast eating house spread over a former knitting emporium where James Joyce once worked (who knew?)

Surrounded by thick-crusted loaves of bread and pillowy-looking cinnamon-apple buns, I ate a messily delicious braised pork shoulder sandwich laced with red cabbage and beetroot slaw, along with a generously portioned butterbean and pumpkin salad.”

“For eating and drinking in Dublin, make sure to check out The Winding Stair, a longtime favorite of Dubliners and travelers. Its cozy dining room is, fittingly, up a winding staircase, and the windows overlook the River Liffey, my favorite among the restaurants I visited.”

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And from trams and boy racers to broomsticks ... Looming nearby is The Wizarding World of Harry Potter eternally creepy Bates Motel.

The tram periodically pulls into 3D simulation terminals, too, which cleverly reenact a simulated earthquake and flood in a subway station, take us alongside King Kong as he battles dinosaurs and throw us in the midst of a Fast & Furious car chase.

And from trams and boy racers to broomsticks ... Looming nearby is The Wizarding World of Harry Potter, an atmospheric universe with a towering Hogwarts castle and the village of Hogsmeade. Highlights here include the zippy rollercoaster Flight of the Hippogriff – short but sweet – a visit to Ollivander’s Wand Shop and the standout immersive ride Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey. Enter the fantastically realistic

castle before clambering on to a pivoting “robocoaster”, which simulates soaring above the castle grounds and dodging Dementors.

The Nighttime Lights at Hogwarts Castle start just after sunset, illuminating the purple sky with electric-blue phoenixes while slinky yellow serpents ripple across the castle façade. This seasonal spectacle truly encapsulates the park’s mischievous spirit and cutting-edge technology and, as I’m wondering why I – a Californian girl – waited so long to see this dreamy Hollywood wonderland, a teenager, glued to his phone, bashes into me, sending my coffee flying and decorating my white dress with sludgy splatters. Right, well the magic is only temporary anyway – but the show must go on nonetheless.

Above, buttresses and butterbeer ... The Wizarding World of Harry Potter is a fully-formed land of jaw-dropping effects, labyrinthine streets and haunted castles, as per the big-screen adaption of JK Rowling’s books.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY GROOVY A 1960s time capsule, The Garland – close to Universal – is splashed with tangerine colours and groovy circles. Each suite is named after family members of the late sci-fi star Beverly Garland. Vintage trolleys take guests to the theme park and nearest metro station; the hotel hosts movie nights by the pool and, in true LA fashion, all pets are welcome.

Don’t leave without trying The Front Yard’s chorizo devilled eggs. Rooms from $224.

(4222 Vineland Ave, North Hollywood, +1 800 238 3759; thegarland.com) CHARACTERFUL Spain meets Morocco at Hotel Figueroa in Downtown LA, which opened as a YWCA in 1926 and now proudly presents works by LAbased female artists each quarter. Inside, marvel at high ceilings, a swanky cocktail bar and the delectable eats from its Veranda restaurant, which overlooks a curiously coffin-shaped pool. Ask about the red-streaked painting in the lobby and hear a spirited tale of the hotel’s rebel founder Maude. Rooms from $200. (939 S Figueroa St, Los Angeles, +1 877 724 1973; hotelfigueroa.com)

CONVENIENT Just beside Universal, Hilton Los Angeles Universal City is ideal for families set on spending a whole weekend at the park. The hotel offers a complimentary shuttle to Universal daily, has spacious rooms, a whirlpool and its Sierra Pool Bar and Grill serves delicious international cuisines alongside live piano music. Unwind after a busy day of long queues. Rooms from $179. (555 Universal Hollywood Dr, Universal City, +1 818 506 2500; hilton.com)

EAT WHIMSICAL Potter fans will love The Three Broomsticks in The Wizarding World of Harry Potter World, with its “floating corridors”, a curlicue staircase and glowing lamps in sky-high Medievalstyle arches. Choose between traditional English fare, such as fish‘n’chips, Shepherd’s pie and pasties, or share The Great Feast – a smoked medley of chicken, spareribs, corn on the cob and roast potatoes. Hearty and transporting.

(100 Universal City Plaza, +1 800 864 8377) GREEN DREAM Across the road from Universal Studios is Vegetable, a vegan, industrial-style restaurant that welcomes theme-park fatigued diners with sky-blue hues, colourful veggies, left, and chalkboards with inspo quotes.

Sample dishes include a roasted golden and red beet salad, saffron-infused savoury corncake, bourbon barbecueroasted cauliflower and a pick-your-own cheeseboard with homemade spreads.

(3711 Cahuenga Blvd W, + 1 818 754 1149; vegetablela.com) ESTEEMED Est. 1946, Smoke House – some ten minutes’ north of Universal was favoured by Bing Crosby and Bob Hope. These days you might find George Clooney or a camera crew (Argo and La La Land both filmed here) tucking into a ribeye, whiskey-glazed steak or ribs doused in homemade hickory-mesquite barbecue sauce, in one of its red vinyl booths. Start with the cheesy garlic bread that locals dub “the best in the world”.

Live music Thursday-Saturdays. (4420 W Lakeside Dr, Burbank, + 1 818 845 3731; smokehouse1946.com)

DRINK GOTHIC Nestled at the back of The Three Broomsticks, Hog’s Head Pub is a cosy corner adorned with barrels, seemingly shrunken heads and colourful potions. Ornate, Gothicstyle taps serve modern beers, but this tavern is best known for its JK Rowling-inspired butterbeer, brewed cold or frozen. Expect to be thrown in Azkaban if you leave without trying a creamy, butterscotch swig. (4426 Main Way Universal, +1 800 864 8377) CHILL “Make beer, not war” is the laid-back mantra of Karl Strauss Brewing Company, located in Universal’s CityWalk. Pilsners, IPAs, stouts, ciders – you name it, they have it (the nine per cent Wreck Alley imperial stout will blow your socks off). Try a tasty appetiser such as duck fat pretzel bites followed by a Mondo burger with beer-brined bacon. Tour the brewery and taste what’s on tap for just $7.

(1000 Universal Studios Blvd, +1 818 753 2739; karlstrauss.com) JAZZY Some of the best music in town is a just a hop, skip and one-kilometre jump from the Studios. Below a neon yellow sign, The Baked Potato has been featuring famous musicians since the 1970s and also serves up 24 types of tasty spuds, with toppings such as melted cheese, maple ham, teriyaki chicken and Philly cheesesteak, alongside refreshing, fruity cocktails and cool beers.

(3787 Cahuenga Blvd, Studio City, + 1 818 980 1615; thebakedpotato.com)

SMART TIPS TRANSPORT To avoid the notorious traffic, take the free Green Line G airport shuttle out of LAX to the metro station Aviation/LAX. From there: to wherever your heart desires.

Once you’re Downtown, try one of LA’s many dock-less scooters. Bird, Lime, Lyft, Jump – find the closest one, download the app and get started.

SKIP THE QUEUE Nothing dulls a day like waiting around in long queues. Splurge on the Universal Express ticket online – $10 cheaper than at the front gate – and skip each ride’s line once. If you only have one day at the park, this is the best way to see absolutely everything and still have time to saunter and snack. From $179 at universalstudioshollywood.com.

HEX APPEAL

Ghosts of the past are alive and well in Salem, Massachusetts, with locals and visitors alike revelling in its deep, dark history.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS ROSE CALLAHAN

T

here aren’t many places that fully embrace all things spooky like Salem.

Affectionately known as “Witch City”, you will find witch imagery on everything from police cars to antique stores, so it’s no surprise that the hottest season for this enchanting town, just 25 kilometres north of Boston, is Halloween.

Since the early 1980s, Halloween has grown into a month-long celebration in Salem, luring more than 500,000 visitors every October. The roots of the town’s macabre reputation stems from the infamous Salem Witch Trials’ mass hysteria of 1692, when 19 innocent people were accused of, and ultimately executed for witchcraft.

Ironically, this sinister legacy has helped shape Salem into a hub of tolerance and creativity, providing a magnetic draw in particular for the modern Pagan and Witch communities. A stroll down Essex Street from the stately Hawthorne Hotel (see “Stay” on page 98) will take you through a cross section of the town that includes the kitsch Salem Witch Museum (salemwitchmuseum.com), the world-class Peabody Essex Museum (pem.org) and The Witch House (thewitchhouse.org), with its sombre black gables. Then pop into the freshly minimalist “home and healing” concept store, HausWitch (hauswitchstore.com), for a spell kit and for tips on how to “hex the patriarchy”.

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SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BOSTON twice daily.

Previous pages, The Witch House, left, and right, Sebastian Crane and Lauren Knowles in the McIntire Historic District. These pages, clockwise from top, Salem street style; off with her head at Black Veil Studio; divine drinks at Ledger; Therese DeVoe at Charter Street Cemetery.

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Opposite page, clockwise from top left, K Lenore Siner, tattoo artist at Witch City Ink; John Ward House, 1684; local witch, Rose Wolf, at Wynott’s Wands; witchcraft with a feminist twist at HausWitch Home + Healing.

This page, clockwise from top left, local lore at Antiques Gallery on Pickering Wharf; Derby Waterfront District, where even the Adirondack chairs are coffin shaped; stairwell sightings at the Gardner-Pingree House, murder site of Captain Joseph White in 1830, whose trial inspired the writings of Edgar Allan Poe and Nathaniel Hawthorne.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY

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STORIED Hawthorne Hotel is an elegant 1925 lodging beside Salem Commons, whose newly renovated grand ballroom hosts many weddings and special events.

Interiors are comfortable and chintzy, and, insider tip: see if you can catch Jonathan Reardon, Quartermaster of the Salem Marine Society, to show you its “secret” rooftop clubhouse. B&B from $179.

(18 Washington Square W, +1 978 744 4080; hawthornehotel.com)

YE OLDE Turner’s Seafood is an upscale Salem mainstay that’s said to be haunted by the ghost of Bridget Bishop, the first woman executed in the witch trials of 1692 and on whose land the Lyceum Hall was built in 1831. New England classics abound: clam and fish chowders, oysters, lobster rolls and more. (43 Church St, +1 978 745 7665; turners-seafood.com)

BEWITCHING A Federal-style property built in 1834 by Captain Nathaniel West, The Salem Inn is as packed with oldschool charm as it is with antique and vintage furniture. Spick and span rooms have been renovated to a high standard without compromising on original features. It’s also centrally located one block away from The Witch House, the former home of Judge Jonathan Corwin, who signed arrest warrants during the Salem Witch Trails. B&B from $189.

(7 Summer St, +1 978 741 0680; saleminnma.com)

TRICKS & TREATS SPELLBINDING Are you a sleek or a gnarly wand person? Find out at Wynott’s Wands, a wonderful gem of a magic shop that will definitely have you asking yourself esoteric questions. (127 Essex St, +1 978 741 1170; salemmagicshop.com) NOUVEAU Not all witches are into Gothic doom and gloom. HausWitch Home + Healing offers a refreshingly minimalist take on the modern witchcraft aesthetic, its owner Erica Feldmann being on a mission to bring more magic into people’s homes. Pick up a signed copy of her book HausMagick. (144 Washington St, +1 978 594 8950; hauswitchstore.com) INKY The Black Veil Studio is a haven for those wanting to be tattooed by cult status twins Ryan and Matthew Murray.

Stay for the photogenic decor and darkly curated selection of locally made art and gifts. (137 Boston St, +1 978 969 0741; blackveilstudio.com)

VISTAS At Sea Level Oyster Bar, order clam chowder and a local Notch Pilsner, below, sit back and enjoy the outlook of Pickering Wharf. The harbour-front porch is, naturally, jampacked during the summer months and pricing is of the tourist variety. But lobster rolls are sizeable and that view is priceless. (94 Wharf St, +1 978 741 0555; sealeveloysterbar.com) REFINED For expert cocktails in a warmly lit former bank, it has to be Ledger Restaurant

& Bar, whose architectural bones date back to 1818. Traditional 19th-century New England dishes have been given a 21stcentury update by chef and owner Matt O’Neil and executive chef Daniel Gursha, who had training in Copenhagen’s Noma.

(125 Washington St, +1 978 594 1908; ledgersalem.com)

SMART TIPS ARRIVALS If arriving from Boston via broomstick just isn’t an option, take the ferry. The sail takes around an hour and costs $45 return, regular fare. bostonharborcruises.com DARK ARTS Check out HauntedHappenings.org for a comprehensive list of events throughout October. For instance, The Black Veil Studio is hosting the Dark Arts Night Faire on October 26 at Pioneer Village.

HOSTING THE WORLD SINCE 1798

Don’t just explore our heritage, immerse yourself in it… people from all over the world have set on a journey through the Dublin mountains to discover the quaint allurement that lies behind the doors at Johnnie Fox’s.

HAVE A HOOLEY

Step back in time to discover the true Irish experience at the renowned Johnnie Fox’s Hooley Night - this includes the famous Fox’s troupe of Irish dancers, lively band playing traditional Irish music, a four course meal by our award winning kitchen and plenty of good ‘aul’ Irish craic.

From Presidents to Prime Ministers, from film icons to farmers, from sporting greats to singing legends, the pub has become famous for its guests and its true ‘Céad mile fáilte’.

Johnnie Fox’s is inimitable to the pretender - It has often been copied, never equalled.

BOOK NOW

to avoid disappointment

www.johnniefoxs.com Phone: +353 1 2955647

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6 IRISH CASTLE HOTELS Thomas Breathnach vaults over moats and dives under portcullises to discover Ireland’s finest castle stays.

1 DROMOLAND CASTLE Billed as the most magical address in Ireland, few destinations evoke luxury in the Irish psyche like the five-star Dromoland in Co Clare. Baronial façades, plush drawing rooms, oil paintings that could talk and, above all, sumptuous suites that drape stays here with sparkle. Feeling active? Dromoland lays down the full gauntlet of grand pursuits from archery to clay shooting, while treatments at its spa, such as brown sugar scrubs, woo the less vying. Rooms from €251. dromoland.ie

2 ADARE MANOR While strictly speaking a manor, rather than a castle, it would be folly not to include Ireland’s finest luxury

estate. Still gleaming after a €70 million refurb in 2017, the five-star Co Limerick property has brought Irish grandeur to a new level – each room, banquet hall, corner and cranny is like a work of art. Accolades extend beyond its grand design, too. Golfers can tee-off on an 18-hole championship course (that will host the 2026 Ryder Cup) while gourmands can savour a number of critically-acclaimed dining options from creative head chef Michael Tweedie, who wears Adare’s top toque with diligent pride. Rooms from €340. adaremanor.com

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3 ASHFORD CASTLE Conjuring up a sense of ethereal draíocht (magic) on Lough Corrib’s shores, five-star Ashford Castle

jousts with the likes of Camelot or Neuschwanstein for the title of Europe’s most epic castle. Think of it as a palatial experience with a Hibernian hue – where velvet-walled chambers are embellished with Connemara marble, Foxford wools and Waterford chandeliers.

Routines get pretty regal, too; enjoy cinema screenings of The Quiet Man, craft gin tastings or meet resident Instagram stars: Irish wolfhounds Cronan and Garvan. Rooms from €325. ashfordcastle.com

4 CLONTARF CASTLE

Visitors to the capital can enjoy a seaside bastion with boutique lineage at north Dublin’s Clontarf Castle. Originally dating from 1172, today the four-star property melds the Medieval with the contemporary, where historic crenellated towers guarded by armoured suits flank new generation wings via stunning glass vestibules. Accommodation vibes vary as a result; from trendy deluxe rooms to luxury king suites with fairytale turret views. Rooms from €129. clontarfcastle.ie

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5 CASTLE LESLIE ESTATE

Far from the madding crowd, in rural Co Monaghan, lies one of Ireland’s most exquisite country piles, Castle Leslie. Its gentrified air is immediately apparent: the stunning Scots Baronial homestead sits amid a rustic playground of lakes and bocage, crying out for wax jackets and tweeds. The property is still owned by the Leslie family, so inside you can expect gallant rooms plumped with homely heritage and period drama. Rooms from €140. castleleslie.com

6 KILLEAVY CASTLE ESTATE

Whether you fancy renting your own castle or settling down in a converted coach-house, Co Armagh’s Killeavy Castle Estate offers a demesne with a difference. Just opened this year, Killeavy’s restored Tudor fortress is available for private hire, while its stylish hotel offers luxe accommodation reimagined from original estate buildings. Located in the Ring of Gullion, one of Northern Ireland’s most scenic terrains, feeling like the King or Queen of Ulster also comes as standard. Rooms/castle hire from £160/£1,500. killeavycastle.com

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BERLIN Thirty years since the Wall fell, Sarah Gillespie investigates a city open to the world.

DON’T MISS COMMEMORATE Berlin will mark three decades since the fall of the Wall with 30 Years of Peaceful Revolution, a programme of more than 100 events this November 4-11. Cold War-era photos will illuminate seven historical sites on the “Path to Revolution” and a music festival on November 9 will showcase international artists. (Various locations, +49 30 24749 700; kulturprojekte.berlin)

GREEN Berlin’s first zero-waste restaurant, Frea, sends all leftovers back to its organic suppliers as compost – it has also banned plastic. Chef Halfdan Kluften serves up a new, locally sourced vegan menu every week, paired with homemade pasta and sourdough bread. Sip a sulphate-free natural wine in the leafy, exposed-brick interior. (Torstrasse 180, +49 30 938 961 98; frea.de)

REFLECT One hundred and thirty people died crossing the Berlin Wall; many more got away, leaping from windows into sheets held out by West Berlin firemen. Reflect on their lives at the Berlin Wall Memorial, an outdoor audio-visual exhibition that includes a 70-metre stretch of the original wall complete with Stasi guard tower.

(Bernauer Strasse 111, +49 30 213085 166; berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de)

Clockwise from top left, the Berlin Wall Memorial; a preserved section of the Wall; Birgit Kinder’s Test the Rest mural at East Side Gallery; the splendid restored baths at the Oderger Hotel; CODA’s spoon-smashable chocolate and banana dessert; brothy goodness at Frea Restaurant.

CHRIS ABATZIS

ENERGISE The East Side Gallery covers more than a kilometre of the Wall in vibrant, politically charged murals. Look out for Iranian artist Kani Alavi’s Es Geschah im November (It Happened in November), a haunting, Munch-like depiction of East German liberation and Birgit Kinder’s Test the Best, of a Cold War-era Trabant car breaking through the Wall. (Mühlenstrasse 3-100; eastsidegallery-berlin.com)

COUTURE Clothing Berlin’s trendsetters since 1907, the KaDeWe department store is loaded with luxury brands but it’s the sixth-floor delicatessen that’s the real draw – jewel-like cakes compete with fragrant world teas and lobsters lounging on a bed of crushed ice. We also love the glass-roofed buffet hall with city views.

(Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, +49 30 21210; kadewe.de) EXPERIENCE In a moody, minimalist setting that belies its gritty Neukölln home, Michelin-starred CODA reimagines dinner as a seven-part epicurean symphony.

Don’t be put off by the “dessert dining” tagline, which refers to chef René Frank’s patisserie-inspired presentation; a typical dish contrasts acidic rhubarb with tarragon and tofu, sweetened with honey.

(Friedelstrasse 47, +49 30 9149 6396; coda-berlin.com)

ABOVE, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: ©STIFTUNG BERLINER MAUER, G SIMONS; VISITBERLIN, DAGMAR SCHWELLE; ©VISUMATE

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BOHEMIAN Knock back a vodka (or more) at Kvartira 62, a shabby Russian bar cluttered with Matryoshka dolls. The Red menu includes White Russians, Moscow Mules and bowls of warming borscht (beetroot soup), served to the tune of live Russianlanguage musicians and beat poets.

Try the Space Race-inspired Spicy Gagarin cocktail. (Lübbener Strasse 18, +49 179134 3343)

LEGENDARY Reopened after the Cold War, Berlin institution Hotel Adlon Kempinski has hosted Nelson Mandela and Queen Elizabeth II. The lobby sparkles with Murano glass chandeliers after a €6 million transformation, but the true star of the show is the three-level luxury spa with heated pool. Rooms from €250. (Unter den Linden 77, +49 30 22610; kempinski.com)

FRESH It’s hard to feel the zeitgeist more than at BRLO, a small-batch brewery and restaurant built from shipping containers – but the brand’s commitment to German suppliers is more than trendy. Tours illuminate the brewing process and end in a tasting paired with bar bites. (Schöneberger Strasse 16, +49 30 5557 7606; brlo-brwhouse.de) OFFBEAT Well-stocked jazz bar B-Flat counts artists as diverse as American crooner Harry Connick Jr and Zorba’s Dance composer Mikis Theodorakis as previous guests. The weekly jam sessions are a glorious free-for-all, with audience members bounding on to the stage to show off their best scat singing. (Dircksenstrasse 40, +49 30 283 31 23; b-flat-berlin.de)

SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BERLIN up to 14 times per week.

FABLED Bordering the regenerated Gleisdreieck Park, the Brothers Grimmthemed Grimm’s Hotel am Potsdamer Platz blends a modern aesthetic with whimsical illustrations of Hansel and Gretel and Puss in Boots. With a wellness spa, sauna, eighth-floor terrace and a bar serving “magic potions,” a fairytale stay is guaranteed. Rooms from €109.

(Flottwellstrasse 45, +49 30 258 0080; grimms-hotel.de) HISTORICAL Dating back to 1898, the Oderberger Hotel once served as a bathhouse for the residents of Prenzlauer Berg. The private bathing rooms are now unfussy guest suites but the magnificent vaulted swimming hall has been restored to its original splendour. Free tours of the bathhouse are held once a month. Rooms from €120. (Oderberger Strasse 57, +30 780 089 760; hotel-oderberger.berlin)

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What is digital transformation? There is no single, agreed-upon definition of digital transformation and there’s no clear rulebook to follow. In fact, if you think that you’re on top of your company’s digital transformation project, you’re probably thinking too small. It’s not a tagline, or about making your IT back office more efficient, it’s a journey that involves rethinking the very core of your business through technology. And if you don’t act now, you could end up obsolete.

What fears do companies have about embarking on it? The biggest fear we come across is not knowing where to start. For most businesses, managing change projects is not a core area of expertise – they are totally out of their comfort zone and some have been burned before. How do you scope the project? What resources do you allocate to it? What people do you need and how would you manage its successful delivery? What does success even look like? This uncertainty can paralyse many management teams.

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BUSINESS

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TOUJOURS PARIS The City of Light is no dimwit when it comes to business and commerce. Madeleine Keane skips the boardroom politics and gets right to the heart of the matter.

F

orever shrouded in romance, beauty and legend, Paris, as Audrey Hepburn once observed, is always a good idea. But Hausmann’s glorious creation has been badly bruised in recent years: Charlie Hebdo, Bataclan, the marches of the gilets jaunes and the conflagration at its iconic cathedral have taken their toll.

Yet the City of Light refuses to lose its lustre. Au contraire.

According to the Global Cities Investment Monitor, which ranks major cities in terms of job-creating foreign investment, Paris moved up one place in 2018 and came second overall, after London, ahead of Singapore, Dubai and New York.

While La Defense remains the chief business district, its

glistening skyscrapers home to leading local players, Total, Orange, Société Générale et al, down near Gare d’Austerlitz, Station F houses the world’s biggest startup campus.

President Macron is keen to invest in artificial intelligence and the tech scene is flourishing.

Hiberno-Gallic relations are very strong too, with 500 Irish companies exporting to France – chiefly in medical and life sciences, engineering, software and startups – and Irish executives are scaling the ranks in major French global companies.

With the city set to host both the World Cup Rugby and the Olympics in 2023/4, Paris is, like its signature Eiffel Tower, enduring, steely, ever upwards.

GET SMART ARRIVALS Charles de Gaulle is the city’s main airport. A taxi from CDG to the Rive Droite (Right Bank) is fixed at a flat rate of €50, and €55 to the Rive Gauche (Left Bank).

Public transport connections are good. From CDG take the RER B (suburban train) to the city centre, €11.40.

WORK IT Co-working spaces are popping up all over Paris. WeWork provides smart offices with shared, serviced facilities.

Choose a dedicated desk on the ChampsÉlysées from €1,000 p/m, or pay €300 a month for a hot desk option in this edgy 19th district. wework.com

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SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PARIS four times daily and from Cork daily.

CLASSIC Pay homage at the remarkable cathedral of NotreDame, still sublime despite the spring inferno, then grab a seat at the nearby La Rotisserie d’Argent. Delightful baby sister of the legendary Tour d’Argent, she’s a veritable charmer who has it all: a front-row view of the Seine, sophisticated service and consummately executed French classics – foie gras, steak frites and ile flottante. (19 quai de la Tournelle, + 33 143 541 47; tourdargent.com)

TRADITIONAL Le Balzar is the ultimate in French brasseries.

From the extravagantly moustachioed maitre d’ to the crisp napery and intimate banquette seating, the Belle Époque beauty oozes Parisian elan. Pan-fried veal liver drenched in butter and parsley, served with golden potatoes, paired with the very good house Bordeaux, is sensational.

Vaut le detour, as they say here.

(49 rue des Écoles, +33 143 541 367; brasseriebalzar.com)

FUN Legendary restaurateur Mourad Mouzaz (of Sketch and Momo fame) has struck gold again with Le 404 in the Marais. A dark, sexy interior thrums with a hip young crowd and the menu sings of the scents and sensuality of North Africa, with couscous, tagines, grilled meats and some great Moroccan wines. Sink a digestif at 404’s neighbouring sibling, uber-cool Andy Wahloo.

(69 rue des Gravilliers, +33 142 745 781; 404-resto.com)

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STAY LUXE First of the Paris glamour girls to receive a coveted Palace designation, Le Bristol has long been beloved by the beau monde.

With bespoke beauty suites, a resident Burmese, opulent decor, warm staff, a smart, rooftop swimming pool and exquisite food from chef Eric Ferchon (four Michelin stars under his Hermès belt), it richly merits the label icon. Rooms from €935. (112 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, +33 153 434 300; oetkercollection.com)

CHARMANTE A petite jewel deep in the heart of the Marais, Bourg Tibourg is the stunning Neo-Gothic creation of interiors guru Jacques Garcia. Lush with velvets and antique furniture, bedrooms are compact perfection. No restaurant – though a cute jardin, above – but options abound in the area, which is home to the superb Musée Picasso, a short walk away. Rooms from €165.

(19 rue du Bourg Tibourg, +33 142 784 739; bourgtibourg.com)

HIP Wellness is the word at this cool hangout between Montmartre and Pigalle: Parister. With an indoor lap pool, yoga classes, lunch in a bamboo-shaded courtyard, a cocktail bar offering the city’s largest French whisky selection and inviting bedrooms, the Parister is on trend and first rate. Walkable distance from Opéra and super shopping at Galeries Lafayette. Rooms from €200 (19 rue Saulnier, +33 180 509 191; hotelparister.com)

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opportunities, and it is very satisfying to see CCI’s photographic exhibitions included in major art fairs, such as Paris Photo, visited by photographers and curators from all over the world.

What do you love most about living and working in Paris? I love that I live in the most beautiful city in the world, whilst retaining a strong connection to my home country.

The potential to connect at an international level with so many arts professionals and the opportunities this creates for Irish artists is incredibly exciting.

BUSINESS INSIDER

ARTS ATTACHÉ A highly regarded creative producer and curator, Nora Hickey M’Sichili – above, with U2’s Adam Clayton – is director of the Centre Culturel Irlandais, Ireland’s international arts centre and residence, and president of FICEP, the Forum des Instituts Culturels Étrangers à Paris, which represents the 57 arts centres from around the world based in Paris.

How long have you lived in Paris and how has the city changed in that time? Since moving to Paris in 2013 to lead the Centre Culturel Irlandais (CCI), two gratifying changes have stood out for me: one has been Paris’ response to climate change – reflected in CCI’s programme with a major exhibition on the subject by Irish artists in 2015, which coincided with the Paris UN Climate Change Conference. The other has been Paris’ drive to make the city a postcar reality with the increasing abundance of shared transport in the city and plans to pedestrianise the centre of Paris by the time the Olympic Games take place here in 2024.

What is the main difference between working in the arts here and in Ireland?

As a world capital on the European continent, one inevitably feels much more at the centre of things. For artists who are awarded residencies in CCI, being exposed to large-scale, ambitious new artistic projects in, for example, the Palais de Tokyo or Le Théâtre du Châtelet, is incredibly inspiring and sometimes life changing. As a cultural ambassador working outside Ireland, I spend much more time now thinking about how Ireland should be depicted to an international audience on a world stage. It feels like there are limitless

Where do you like to take clients? There is no need to go any further than the Centre to impress international partners. CCI, just a stone’s throw from the Pantheon, is huge leverage for Ireland, which can certainly boast one of the finest cultural centres in Paris. I love showing visitors our contemporary gallery and cloistered courtyard, surprising them then with the 18th-century chapel and vaulted library, with its illuminated manuscripts inherited from the original purpose of the building as an Irish college and seminary.

Where are your favourite places to go to relax? In Paris, I like to walk along the banks of the Seine, go to concerts or the theatre or for mint tea in the Great Mosque of Paris. But to really unwind, like so many Parisians, I travel the short distance to our country retreat near Laon, a beautiful historic city in northern France, to reconnect with nature surrounded by spectacular meadows and cornfields.

Centre Culturel Irlandais, 5 rue des Irlandais, +33 158 521 030; centreculturelirlandais.com

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A DAY IN THE LIFE

I LOVE VISITIN G …

It’s not all business for Maura Quinn, CEO of the Institute of Directors in Ireland. A former executive director of UNICEF Ireland, she led the introduction of the UNICEF Aer Lingus “Change for Good” collections in 1997. She also sits on the boards of Rugby Players Ireland and the Coombe Women and Infants University Hospital in Dublin.

9am I check in with the membership team to see if any issues have arisen and to share some of the ideas that assailed me at 4am. Ditto director of development programmes. Different colleagues from the communications team pop in throughout the day to discuss various bits and pieces, from marketing to PR and also future research projects.

10am Another coffee on board and an Institute of Directors member is seeking advice. I’m pretty accessible to everyone and I like to be. We have more than 3,000 members, comprising board directors and business leaders.

12.15pm Lunch is often on the hoof, a quick bite and back to work.

2pm I could have a scheduled interview with a journalist from a national newspaper to discuss some key findings from our report on boardroom diversity. Then I might have a planning session with our Chartered Director Training Programme director and key staff. The programme is growing all the time, so quality assurance is vital. Around this time I check in quickly on the news.

MÁLAGA A gem of a port city, with a population of nearly 600,000.

I love to visit the beautiful Picasso Museum and the spectacular Renaissance cathedral, La Manquita (the so-called “one-armed lady”).

It’s such an easy city to walk around and enjoy.

4pm We’re working on some new possible developments, so I like to have some quiet time to think and formulate.

5pm We sometimes have an Evening Briefing event with a guest speaker. As part of the events we hold a Q&A, which I facilitate. As our members represent all areas of industry within Ireland, it is always insightful to hear their thoughts and comments. At the end of the event, I try to chat to as many members as I can.

7.30pm I enjoy a quiet Luas ride home, as it’s post rush hour. After a quick change of clothes, I walk the dogs around the local park before dinner at home and a catch up with the family. Then it’s the TV news and bed by 11.30pm. I like to read a book for a while, before lights out and dreams of a weekend away in Dingle ...

PORTRAIT: © INPHO/JAMES CROMBIE

6am The alarm goes off; though, usually, I’m waiting for it. I’m a light sleeper and am likely to have been mulling something over since the early hours. Everything seems much clearer at 4am. I check emails and news, shower and get dressed. My clothes are chosen the night before. Our vocal Jack Russells are demanding to be let out to chase long-gone foxes from the garden.

It’s porridge and berries for breakfast, then a quick walk to the Luas stop and a short trip to the office on Harcourt Street, stopping en route for a multi-shot black coffee. I usually arrive at 8am and enjoy the quiet before the team arrives. I find that every day has variety: some allow for planned work to take place, others are more reactive.

MANHATTAN I waitressed in the West Village when I was a student, eons ago, and fell in love with Manhattan. The love affair has continued. I worked with the UN at one point so I have friends all over.

I love to walk in Central Park, have dinner at Café Luxembourg and people watch everywhere.

LISBON I love the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, my favourite in the world. If you visit, climb to the majestic castle, Castelo de São Jorge, which overlooks the city – a spectacular view. Then, go enjoy the great food and wine the city has to offer.

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PAUL McCARTHY PHOTOGRAPHY

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT

Iconic Offices founder and CEO Joe McGinley has been self-employed in the commercial property sector for over a decade. His training is in this area too, having studied for six years with the Irish Auctioneers and Valuers Institute (now SCSI) as a property surveyor. iconicoffices.ie

1 DON’T THINK TOO HARD If you have a good idea for a new business or a new product, don’t spend too long debating it with yourself. And for the love of God, don’t go around your family and friends asking what they think. The more you debate and question an idea, the higher the chance of it never happening. If you believe it, just start taking positive steps forward. Write it out, do your market research and prove your idea before you present it to others.

2 PROFIT Don’t delude yourself by focusing on turnover – profit is what matters. Taking on debt comes with as many problems as it solves, with the loss of some control and reporting requirements.

Build your business with blood, sweat and tears. Then, once proven, look at taking on external investment to grow further.

3 INVEST IN PEOPLE You must hire to supplement your weaknesses. Focus on getting your key hires locked into the business early and you can all grow together. Take your time to make sure you get the right people and, if you aren’t certain about a hire, don’t do it. When you know, you know.

4 KNOW YOUR USP You can’t win if you aren’t noticeably different but especially if you can’t talk through why you are different. You need to be able to explain why an entrepreneur all the way up to a Fortune 500 company should choose you over your competitors. For most companies, there is always a competitor who is cheaper, and you need to be able to show the customer the overall value in doing business with your company versus your cheaper competitor.

5 KNOW YOUR NUMBERS Nobody will ever take you seriously if you can’t talk about your business in numbers.

You need to know your gross profit from your net profit and your EBITDA from your run rate. If you are looking for funding, nothing impresses an investor or lender more than a founder who has a strong grasp of the numbers and who can also extrapolate the numbers out into the future.

6 REMEMBER YOUR FRIENDS When you “make it”, don’t forget who was there while you were struggling every day to achieve your goal.

Remember who supported you, who was there for you and who believed in you. Or maybe nobody was there for you. Either way, don’t forget it and keep it real.

JOE’S SMART CITY LONDON DESTINATION London is unlike any other city I know. I just love the streets, the buildings, the unique architectural flair and design aesthetics. I love checking out the hottest new restaurants or hotels, but you’ll normally find me at the end of the night hunkered down in an old cinema somewhere.

EAT In London, there is one restaurant chain which is like a religion to me, Dishoom. I can’t visit London without paying a visit to at least one of their locations, but I usually try to visit Shoreditch as that’s my favourite. Dishoom do unbelievably tasty Indian tapas in a busy and energetic atmosphere.

It is so good. dishoom.com

STAY If I’m in the city, I normally stay at The Ned,

by Soho House, because it’s just incredible. The interiors are to die for, the food offering is excellent and the addition of live acts playing on the bandstand in the lobby is just the icing on the cake. thened.com

A place in Europe Guiding your business through Brexit A foothold in Ireland offers a pro-business environment and a continued presence in Europe.

Eversheds Sutherland, a global top 15 law practice, offers you legal excellence worldwide, across 69 offices in 34 jurisdictions. In Ireland, with expert teams in Dublin and Belfast, our geographical presence allows us to understand business needs and risks across the island of Ireland.

As Brexit negotiations unfold, you can depend on us to respond quickly to developments. Our Brexit Group will help your business be aware of the opportunities, while avoiding any pitfalls, that arise.

For further information, contact: Sean Ryan Chair, Brexit Group +353 1 6644 207 seanryan@eversheds-sutherland.ie Alan Murphy Managing Partner +353 1 6644 289 alanmurphy@eversheds-sutherland.ie

eversheds-sutherland.ie

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Let us entertain you

We’ve got loads of brilliant movies, TV shows and music for you to enjoy.

124 126 128 130 132 134 140 142 146

Box office hits All the classics TV time Binge watching Audio Your comfort and safety Flight connections Explore the world with us Let's get you connected

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Box office hits Settle in and enjoy some of the latest Hollywood blockbusters.

Documentary

G

93 mins

Apollo 11 A look at the Apollo 11 mission to land on the Moon, led by Commander Neil Armstrong. Stars Buzz Aldrin, Neil Armstrong EN CCEN

Adventure

PG13

121 mins

Alita: Battle Angel

A female cyborg goes on a quest to find out who she is. Stars Lana Condor, Jennifer Connelly, Eiza González EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Action

PG13

181 mins

Avengers: Endgame

Drama

PG

116 mins

Breakthrough

The climactic end to the epic Avenger’s journey.

Stars Brie Larson, Scarlett Johansson, Karen Gillan

A boy comes back to life after drowning in Lake St Louis. Stars Topher Grace, Chrissy Metz, Marcel Ruiz

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN

Action

PG13

122 mins

Thriller

R

98 mins

Godzilla: King of the Monsters

Greta

The story follows the efforts of the crypto-zoological team.

Stars Kyle Chandler, Vera Farmiga, Millie Bobby Brown

A young woman befriends a lonely widow. Stars Isabelle Huppert, Chloë Grace Moretz, Maika Monroe

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE

INFLIGHT

Comedy

PG13

88 mins

Isn’t it Romantic

Natalie discovers her life has become a romantic comedy.

Stars Rebel Wilson, Liam Hemsworth, Adam Devine EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Action

PG13

130 mins

Thriller

R

131 mins

Action

PG13

115 mins

125

Biography

R

121 mins

John Wick: Chapter 3 – Parabellum

Men in Black: International

Rocketman

EN FR IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Assassin John Wick is the target of hit people everywhere. Stars Keanu Reeves, Halle Berry, Ian McShane

Drama

R

108 mins

The Men in Black tackle a mole in their company.

Stars Chris Hemsworth, Tessa Thompson

Drama

PG13

111 mins

The fantastical human story of Elton John’s early years.

Stars Taron Egerton, Jamie Bell, Richard Madden

Action

PG13

113 mins

Action

PG13

132 mins

Shazam!

A streetwise kid discovers he can change into a superhero. Stars Zachary Levi, Mark Strong, Asher Angel EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Comedy

PG13

116 mins

Spider-Man: Far from Home

The Aftermath

Tolkien

Spider-Man steps up to take on new threats. Stars Tom Holland, Zendaya Coleman, Samuel Jackson

A British couple are sent to live in Hamburg in post WW2. Stars Keira Knightley, Alexander Skarsgård, Jason Clarke

Explore the formative years of the author Tolkien.

Stars Nicholas Hoult, Lily Collins, Colm Meaney

The X-Men decide if the life of a team member is worth saving. Stars Jennifer Lawrence, James McAvoy, Sophie Turner

Jack realises he’s the only one who knows The Beatles.

Stars Himesh Patel, Lily James, Sophia Di Martino

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN DE IT ES CCEN

KidZone

KidZone

X-Men: Dark Phoenix

KidZone

KidZone

Yesterday

G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13

Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR KidZone

PG

128 mins

Aladdin

A live-action adaptation of Disney’s animated classic.

Stars Will Smith, Mena Massoud, Naomi Scott EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

KidZone

PG

112 mins

Dumbo

An elephant with oversized ears helps to save a circus.

Stars Colin Farrell, Michael Keaton, Danny DeVito EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

KidZone

PG

104 mins

Pokémon Detective Pikachu

A boy comes across an intelligent Pikachu who's a detective. Voiced by Ryan Reynolds, Suki Waterhouse EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

KidZone

G

100 mins

Toy Story 4

The final film in the Toy Story franchise. Voiced

by Tom Hanks, Tim Allen, Annie Potts EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Français

DE

Deutsch

IT

Italiano

ES

Español

PU

Portuguese CCEN Closed Caption English

ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS

English Subtitles

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INFLIGHT

All the classics R

Take a trip down movie memory lane with our great selection of classics.

Our animation film package will guarantee fun for all the family with classics including ‘Bambi’, ‘Peter Pan’ and ‘Beauty and the Beast’.

R

133 mins

R

115 mins

American Sniper Stars Bradley Cooper, Sienna Miller

Argo Stars Ben Affleck, Bryan Cranston

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

R

KidZone

117 mins

300 Stars Gerard Butler, Lena Headey

119 mins

PG13

117 mins

R

106 mins

Birdman Stars Michael Keaton, Zach Galifianakis

Blended Stars Adam Sandler, Drew Barrymore

Can You Ever Forgive Me? Stars Melissa McCarthy

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Marvel e Univers

Sit back and enjoy our actionpacked Marvel Studios package.

Starring some of your favourite superheroes such as ‘Captain America’, ‘Iron Man’ and ‘Thor’.

PG

© 2019 Marvel

PG13

101 mins

R

107 mins

PG13

124 mins

© 2019 Disney

PG13

105 mins

PG13

105 mins

102 mins

86 mins

PG

Casablanca Stars Humphrey Bogart, Ingrid Bergman

Fantastic Mr. Fox Voiced by George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Bill Murray

EN FR IT

EN FR DE ES

PG13

93 mins

89 mins

PG

PG13

115 mins

Ghostbusters Stars Melissa McCarthy, Kristen Wiig EN FR DE IT ES

R

119 mins

Isle of Dogs Voiced by Bryan Cranston, Koyu Rankin

Journey’s End Stars Paul Bettany, Sam Claflin

Joy Stars Jennifer Lawrence, Bradley Cooper

Life of the Party Stars Melissa McCarthy, Debby Ryan

Me and Earl and the Dying Girl Stars Thomas Mann, RJ Cyler

Moonrise Kingdom Stars Jared Gilman

Robots Voiced by Ewan McGregor, Halle Berry, Mel Brooks

Spy Stars Melissa McCarthy, Rose Byrne, Jude Law

EN FR IT ES CCEN

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES CCEN

EN FR DE ES

EN

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES

R

97 mins

R

91 mins

R

104 mins

R

103 mins

R

99 mins

PG13

201 mins

R

123 mins

R

112 mins

Tammy Stars Melissa McCarthy, Susan Sarandon

The Darjeeling Limited Stars Owen Wilson

The Disaster Artist Stars James Franco

The French Connection Stars Gene Hackman

The Grand Budapest Hotel Stars Ralph Fiennes

The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King Stars Elijah Wood

The Shape of Water Stars Sally Hawkins

Three Kings Stars George Clooney, Mark Wahlberg

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN DE IT

EN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR ES

ADEN

Irish movies and shorts

PG13

11 mins

PG13

10 mins

PG13

7 mins

PG13

7 mins

PG13

82 mins

PG13

11 mins

PG13

76 mins

PG13

15 mins

Hey Ronnie Reagan Documentary

Martin Documentary

Princess Rehab Stars Sarah Flood, Sorcha Furlong

The Last Miner Stars Jim Power

Tradition Stars Paul Ronan, Brendan Grace, Brian Harty

True-D Stars Michael Bates, Sinead O’Riordan

Under the Clock Stars Chris McMorrow

Unforgotten Stars Mel Tuck, Alex Kilner, Justin Turnbull

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

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TV time Catch up on an old favourite or discover a new show.

Business Marketing. Media. Money The world's biggest brands Secret Lives of the Super Rich Learn how the super rich live their lives The Brave Ones Profiles of the world’s leading entrepreneurs The Edge How products and ideas provide long-term investment

LinkedIn Learning

Derry Girls, S2 Ep 1-6 Written and created by Lisa McGee, this award-winning show follows Erin, her cousin Orla and their friends Claire, Michelle and James, as they navigate the highs and lows of being teenagers in a world of British Army checkpoints in 1990s Northern Ireland

Creating Great First Impressions Make impactful first impressions Creating Personal Connections Build productive relationships Digital Transformation Digitise your entire organisation Marketing to Humans Marketing to Humans with Stefan Mumaw Photography: Advanced Composition Learn with Ben Long Product Marketing Foundations Essentials of product marketing Security Matters (To Everyone) Keep your data safe with Huth Shane Snow on Dream Teams Build your dream team Strategic Thinking With Dorie Clark Writing a Compelling Blog Post Build your brand with Roshell

Kidzone

The Good Place, S3 Ep 3–8 Get ready for more laughs and surprises in Season 3 of this critically-acclaimed comedy. Eleanor and her friends continue their journey to find out what it means to be good. Now, they’ve been sent back to Earth for a second chance, in a new timeline where they never died. Will they be able to earn a spot in the Good Place?

Daniel Tiger’s Neighborhood The Neighborhood of Make-Believe Giving Tale Classic fairy tales by Hans Christian Andersen Marvel’s Spider-Man Peter Parker is accepted into Horizon High Molang Molang and Piu Piu are invited to a party Puppy Dog Pals Two fun-loving puppies’ adventures Rocka-Bye Island Sean and Roisin hop on board their school-boat Roobarb & Custard Too A new series with Roobarb & Custard

Laugh out loud Family Guy A dysfunctional family strive to cope with everyday life Fawlty Towers Trouble is never far away with Basil Fawlty Fresh Off the Boat The Huang family adjust to life in Orlando The Big Bang Theory The loves and lives of a group of scientists The Middle Patricia Heaton stars in this show about raising a family

Learn & discover

Sports

10 Things to Know About… The secrets of the Earth and stars Car S.O.S. 5 Meet car enthusiast Tim Shaw and mechanic Fuzz Townshend Civilisations Nine-part series telling the story of art Close Up The story and glamour of Hollywood’s favourite stars One Strange Rock The extraordinary story of Earth Planet of the Reptiles Reptiles are considered primitive, but don’t be fooled Suffragettes The story of a group of young working-class suffragettes Vitamin Sea There is a story behind every swimmer Whistleblower: The Maurice McCabe Story How the McCabe family dealt with the aftermath of scandal

Dream Teams The ultimate teams across clubs, nations and eras Football’s Greatest Stage A timeless series celebrating World Cup’s greatest teams Perfection The greatest inspirational moments in the history of sport Sports Stars Uncovered Sports biggest names as you’ve never seen them before Sports Woman Showcasing action from women’s sport The Shortlist The ultimate sports countdown series

Music & arts BBC Radio 1’s Big Weekend 2019 A 60-minute special dedicated to BBC Radio 1’s Big Weekend.

Cultureshock The watershed moments in pop culture Destination: Broadway The hottest buzz on all of Broadway Smart Secrets of Great Paintings This series explores the history of art in a new way Sounds Like Friday Night An energetic new music show fronted

by BBC Radio’s Greg James and Dotty Tommy Tiernan: Out of the Whirlwind Tommy’s performance is breathtakingly funny

Real life Dónal Lunny – Línte Ceoil Cheiltigh A musical journey with Dónal Lunny Donal’s Meals in Minutes Donal Skehan’s new cookery series Don’t Tell the Bride (Ireland) A groom takes control of the wedding How it’s Made Discover how everyday objects are made How to Do Florida Discover the Florida beyond the theme parks Room to Improve Design solutions to make an existing home better Tastes Like Home Catherine Fulvio talks to people who have family living abroad The Undateables Documentary series about disability and dating Tracks and Trails Gerry Murphy walks around Derrynane and Valentia Island Travel Man: 48 Hours in...

Richard Ayoade spends 48 hours in a popular city Ventura Design This series follows creative director Arlene McIntyre

Viral All Time Gaming The best channel for hilarious gaming lists and podcasts Clisare Clisare is one of Ireland’s longest-running YouTubers Jim Chapman Jim has worked with brands like Mulberry and Google SACCONEJOLYs The Saccone Joly’s win over the nation through vlogging The Lean Machines Chapman and Bustin have one of the biggest fitness channels What Olivia Did A one-stop hub for all things fashion and lifestyle

Wellbeing Chasing Happiness Discover the latest cutting edge research on happiness Chasing Sleep Sleep is one of the hottest topics in science today In My Mind: Motherhood The negative effects of sleep deprivation The Dose with Dr Billy Get ready for health tips with a quirky twist The Healthy Food Guide A food series busts the myths What’s Really in Our Food Uncover the real science behind the foods we eat

Wish you were here Discover Jenever, Holland’s Historic Drink The source of the phrase ‘Dutch courage’ Discover La Sagrada Família, Barcelona A must-see monument Is Melbourne the Home of the World’s Best Coffee? Melbourne takes coffee culture very seriously New York’s Other Little Italy A slice of the Italian in New York See Rome like Audrey Hepburn Discover Rome via Vespa Walking London from Millennium Bridge to St Paul’s Cathedral A walk along London’s riverside

FOR OVER 175 YEARS EVERYONE HAS ENJOYED A WARM IRISH WELCOME IN THE TEMPLE BAR.

MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL

LOVERS OF IRISH WHISKEY CAN EXPERIERENCE IRELANDS LARGEST WHISKEY COLLECTION, COMPLIMENTED WITH LIVE IRISH MUSIC SESSIONS DAILY AT THE FRIENDLIEST SPOT IN DUBLIN.

DAWSON STREET DUBLIN 2

MARCO PIERRE WHITE COURTYARD BAR & GRILL

2016 winner

DONNYBROOK DUBLIN 4

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

✹▲❙❙ ❋ ✫❙❋ ✬❊ ❙ ✬ ❊❖■

2016 2017 winner

2018 2017 winner

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INFLIGHT

Binge watching Because there’s no better time for a binge watch. Take a look at our latest boxsets.

Doctor Who Season 11 PG Throughout this series the Doctor and the gang embark on exciting adventures throughout space and time.

Among their travels, they visit Alabama in 1955, meeting Rosa Parks, go to Punjab in the year 1947; and to Lancashire in 1612, getting involved in a witch trial.

Game of Thrones Season 1 R

The Handmaid’s Tale Season 2 R

Experience the first season of this visionary HBO series set in a mythical world whose inhabitants vie for control of the Iron Throne. But in a land where seasons can last a lifetime, winter is coming.

The Emmy-winning drama series returns with a second season shaped by Offred’s pregnancy and her ongoing fight to free her future child from the dystopian horrors of Gilead.

Love/Hate Season 1 R

The Marvelous Mrs Maisel Season 1 PG13

The story of an organised crime scene of Dublin is revealed, centred on Darren, who wants to stay out of trouble but ends up returning to his old habits and his old gang.

Miriam ‘Midge’ Maisel has everything she’s ever wanted – the perfect husband, two kids, and an elegant Upper West Side apartment. But her perfect life suddenly takes an unexpected turn forever.

Supernatural Season 13 PG13

The Sinner Season 2 R

Lucifer returns with surprising news: the devil is expecting a child.

Now, Sam and Dean must tackle this complex situation, dealing with a creature of extraordinary powers.

Detective Harry Ambrose goes back to his hometown to investigate the murder of a couple by their 11-year-old son.

As he tries to figure out why, it becomes clear that the town is hiding some secrets.

The Flash Season 4 PG13 With The Flash voluntarily in prison, Iris leads a discouraged Team Flash in protecting Central City. However, a new villain threatens to destroy the city if the Flash doesn’t fight him.

True Detective Season 3 R Retired detective Wayne Hays, who originally investigated a crime, is asked to look back on the twists of the unsolved case with a true-crime documentary producer.

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Audio Relax to your favourite tunes, make a playlist or delve into a new podcast.

Beyoncé Beyoncé’s historic Coachella set is preserved as a stunning 40-track live album featuring tracks from her critically acclaimed album ‘Lemonade’ and also her era-defining back catalogue.

Classical

Kidzone

Sound Out Ian McGlynn, RTÉ Lyric fm The Blue of the Night RTÉ Lyric fm

RTÉ Junior: The Dastardly Deeds of Professor Nasty The Professor breaks out of Little Rikers Daycare

Easy listening

Rock

An hour-long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels

Marty Miller Radio Nova

Indie

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One We offer two documentaries on this flight. The first tells the story of a policewoman mistreated by the Irish police and the second is the story of the IrishAmerican who tried to buy Northern Ireland

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

Irish Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists Sinéad ar Bord Traditional and contemporary tracks in the Irish language

Pop Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs 98FM – Totally Irish John Barker, 98FM Lilian Smith RTÉ Radio 1 RTÉ Gold Rick O’Shea, RTÉ Gold Tracy Clifford RTÉ 2FM

Talk

RTÉ Gold RTÉ Gold plays the greatest in popular music from the 1950s to the 2000s. In this special programme for Aer Lingus passengers, RTÉ Gold presenter Rick O’Shea has chosen for you a selection of tracks from the show’s vast archive.

Podcast Erin’s Isle Horseback Riding and Sheepdogs Erin’s Isle Vikings!

Erin’s Isle Oysters and Seaweed…Yum! Erin’s Isle Dingle Magic Beo ar Éigean Caint Taistil

Podcast: Erin’s Isle Featuring a series of podcasts about Ireland. Learn about Connemara ponies and Irish sheepdogs, authentic Viking longboats and Galway’s oysters.

INFLIGHT

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P!nk ‘Hurts 2B Human’ is P!nk’s eighth album. As well as soaring ballads and anthematic bangers, P!nk also dips her toe into dance and country genres for a well-rounded musical experience. Tracks include ‘Walk Me Home’ and the infectious dance number ‘Can We Pretend’.

All-time Favourites

Country

Jazz

Pop

KidZone

Aretha Franklin The Very Best of Buddy Guy Damn Right, I’ve Got the Blues Dean Martin My Woman, My Woman, My Wife Muddy Waters Hard Again New Kids on the Block Hangin’ Tough Sam Cooke Night Beat

Brooks & Dunn Reboot Carlton Anderson Carlton Anderson Luke Combs The Prequel Maren Morris Girl Seaforth Love That Willie Nelson Ride Me Back Home

Miles Davis Milestones David Orlowsky Trio One last night – Live at Elbphilharmonie Django Reinhardt Djangology George Benson Bad Benson Theo Croker Star People Nation Weather Report Mysterious Travellerus Traveller

Meghan Trainor The Love Train Miley Cyrus She is Coming P!nk Hurts 2B Human Rak-Su Rome Susan Boyle Ten Tom Walker What a Time to Be Alive

Bob Hastings 45 Songs Children Love to Sing Captain Allen Swift Popeye’s Favorite Sea Shanties and Other Songs Charles Grean Songs from Walt Disney's ‘Jungle Book’ Dora the Explorer We Did It! Dora’s Greatest Hits Fairy Tales for Kids Alice in Wonderland The Richard Wolfe Children’s Chorus Yellow Submarine and Other Big Hits for Little People

Alternative Broken Back She Falls St Lucia Acoustic Vol 1 The Neighbourhood The Neighbourhood TWIN XL How To Talk To Strangers Winnetka Bowling League Cloudy With a Chance of Sun Winnetka Bowling League Winnetka Bowling League

Classical Daniel Ottensamer La vie en rose John Mauceri Violin Concerto ‘Eleven Eleven’ and Piano Quartet Khatia Buniatishvili Schubert Philippe Entremont Entremont Plays All-Time Favorite Piano Encores Thomas Enhco Thirty

Electro Alan Walker Different World Golden Vessel Slowshine Groove Armada Groove Armada Greatest Hits Lost Frequencies Less is More Martin Garrix By Law The Chainsmokers Sick Boy

Irish Barbara Dunne Classic Irish Melodies Volume 2 Dervish The Great Irish Songbook Little Hours Acoustic Live at Attica Triona Warrior

Metal Arch Enemy Covered in Blood Dream Theater Distance Over Time In Flames Come Clarity Krisiun Scourge of the Enthroned Sons Of Apollo Live With The Plovdiv Psychotic Symphony Unearth Extinction(s)

Opera Anita Rachvelishvili Anita Christian Gerhaher Mio caro Händel Howard Arman Rossini: Stabat Mater Maarten Engeltjes Forgotten Arias Plácido Domingo Domingo: Save Your Nights For Me Pretty Yende Dreams

R ’n’ B Beyoncé Homecoming: The Live Album Izzy Bizu Glita Khalid Free Spirit Lucky Daye Painted Solange When I Get Home VanJess Silk Canvas

Rock Elvis Presley The Best of The ’68 Comeback Special Bruce Springsteen Springsteen on Broadway Bruce Springsteen Western Stars Cage the Elephant Social Cues Nothing But Thieves What Did You Think When You Made Me This Way? Sundara Karma Ulfilas’ Alphabet

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Your comfort and safety Your comfort and safety is our number one priority at all times. Our crew are on hand to look after you and any requirements you may having during your flight.

We do ask that we have your attention during our safety announcements.

Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat with our cabin crew.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

We ask for your attention during the safety demonstration by our cabin crew before take-off. We also recommend that you familiarise yourself with the safety card in the seat pocket in front of you.

We have a strict no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

You cannot smoke in any part of the cabin.

General safety tips for your flight today • Do pay attention to any instructions given to you by our cabin crew.

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• It is illegal to consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest, including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique.

• Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

Guest with wheelchair requirements

Assistance contact details

• Any behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

If you or a guest you’re flying with requires a wheelchair to reach or depart the plane, we’re here to help.

specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Use of photography on board today

Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays

• You’re very welcome to take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

Simply get in touch with us at least 48 hours in advance of your trip, let us know your booking reference number and we’ll take care of this for you.

UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

However: • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

DUNNE & CRESCENZI Valued collection of casual Italian restaurants

SOUTH FREDERICK STREET

‘Dunne and Crescenzi has changed the way the Irish eat’ - Tom Doorley 14-16 South Frederick Street, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 677 3815 / +353 (1) 675 9892

www.dunneandcrescenzi.com KILDARE VILLAGE

‘What they do today is simply done on a bigger scale..., which is to say to you: here is something delicious, enjoy it’ - John & Sally McKenna Kildare Retail Village, Co. Kildare Tel: +353 (0) 45 535 850

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Your comfort and safety Your portable electronic devices You’re very welcome to use portable electronic equipment on this flight, but to help keep you safe we ask that you follow our guidelines below.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, minidisk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys.

For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before take-off. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Switch your device to flight mode or the flight safe setting during taxi, take-off and landing.

If you’d like to use your phone during your flight, switch it to flight safe mode. If your device doesn’t have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing, when the cabin crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are welcome to use your phone – provided it’s within easy reach. It’s important that you stay seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew when we land.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Explore rarely seen paintings by Jack B. Yeats from Private Collections not seen in over 20 years.

“a triumph”

THE IRISH TIMES

“impressive”

THE FINANCIAL TIMES

“stunning”

T H E S U N DAY T I M E S

Don’t miss, ends 19 Jan 2020 Book online at imma.ie

Jack B. Yeats and Lucian Freud in Life above Everything

I M AG E : Jack B. Yeats, The Flapping Meeting, 1926, © Estate of Jack B. Yeats, DACS London / IVARO Dublin, 2019. Private Collection. Photo: Denis Mortell.

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About AerSpace With our new premium short-haul travel experience you get more space to work or relax because we’ll always leave the middle seat free. And with lounge access, Fast Track security and priority boarding you’ll breeze through the airport. Arrive at your best with AerSpace.

What benefits come with AerSpace?

Dedicated seating, with the centre seat always empty

AerSpace is available to book now on aerlingus.com.

20kg check-in bag allowance

Fast track security access at Dublin Airport

Lounge access (where applicable)

Priority boarding

Dedicated overhead locker space for your bags

Complimentary food and beverage on board from our Bia menu

Subject to conditions and availability.

DUBLIN EXCLUSIVE

Cocktails from €8.95

GLENDALOUGH POITÍN € 7.45 Poitín is Ireland's historic predecessor to whiskey.

It can be traced as far back as 584AD in the monastic settlements of Glendalough.

Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 HARDROCK.COM

E R ’ U O Y

N O C BA AZY! Me

CR

Bacon Crusted Ribs

Fleet Street • Stephen’s Green • Blanchardstown Dundrum • Swords • Liffey Valley

140

INFLIGHT

Flight connections Dublin and London Heathrow Airports Flight connections at Dublin Airport

Flight connections at T2 London Heathrow On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

YES

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

NO

Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’.

After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2

USA

All other destinations

USA

Follow signs for US Preclearance

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes.

If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Where are you flying to today?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

Passport Control and Security Screening

Geataí Gates

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations.

Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

101-335

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside

Gate Information Screens

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

Departure gate Enjoy free Wi-Fi in Dublin Airport

Historic O’Neill’s Pub & Kitchen

FAMOUS MOLLY MALONE STATUE OPPOSITE O’ ’NEILL O’NEILL’S

Conveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

• Traditional Irish Music and Dancers 7 nights-a-week, No Charge • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts • HD TV Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games

• Heated Roof Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area with TV Screens so you wont miss the winning goal • Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland

Opposing fans enjoying the game on one of O’Neill’s big screens

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656. www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm / Fri: 8.00am-12.30am / Sat: 8.00am-12.30am / Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

142

INFLIGHT

Explore the world with us

Anchorage Juneau

Ketchikan

Edmonton Saskatoon Vanc Bel

Victoria

Seattle

Calgary

Portland

Regina

Eugene

Winnipeg

Vancouver Bellingham

Victoria

Wenatchee

Seattle

Thunder Bay

Kalispell Spokane Pullman

Pasco

Great Falls Belgrade

Portland

Sacramento

San Jose

Ottawa Traverse

Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Omaha

Reno

Kansas City

Oakland Fresno

Fort Wayne Akron Canton

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Oklahoma City

Tucson

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

San Antonio

Houston

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis

New York JFK

Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

Philadelphia

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Charlotte Columbia

Charleston

El Paso Austin

Newark

Boston Hyannis

Washington (National)

Lexington

Little Rock Phoenix

Providence

Washington (Dulles)

Nashville

Tulsa

Hartford Pittsburgh

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore Cincinnati

Portland ME

Albany

Rochester

Dayton

Indianapolis

Springfield Las Vegas

Buffalo

Cleveland

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Syracuse

Detroit

St Louis

Halifax

Burlington

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Chicago

Des Moines

Denver

Moncton Fredericton

Montreal

Billings

Medford

Santa Rosa

Duluth

Minneapolis–St Paul

Redmond Eugene

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Walla Walla

Yakima

Missoula

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Honolulu Kahului

Key West

Honolulu Kahului

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

INFLIGHT

We fly to more than 100 destinations across the US, Canada, Europe, the UK and Ireland. We’ve also got great partnerships with JetBlue, British Airways and many more airlines to connect you to even more destinations. Where’s next on your travel wishlist?

143

Save time with US Preclearance You’ll clear US immigration in Dublin or Shannon Airport before you board your flight with us to the US. That means arriving in the US as a domestic passenger and avoiding those immigration queues.

Aer Lingus European and North American network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated

by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

Berlin

London London Heathrow City

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg Amsterdam

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Southampton

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante Malaga

Athens Catania

Faro

Tenerife Tenerife

Lanzarote Lanzarote Fuerteventura Fuerteventura

Gran Canaria Gran Canaria

Route map correct at time of print.

Destinations and schedules subject to change.

Izmir

144

INFLIGHT

Connections to Middle East & Australasia

Dublin

London Heathrow

Dubai Abu Dhabi

Sydney

Melbourne

You can book flights from Dublin to the Middle East and Australia at aerlingus.com with our codeshare partners, British Airways and Etihad Airways.

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

146

INFLIGHT

Let’s get you connected Keep chatting, sharing and discovering Connect to our inflight Wi-Fi 1

Connect to our Mobile Network* 1

Turn on your device and connect to Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Turn on your device and switch off flight-safe mode

(A330 and A321neoLR)

If the Aeromobile Network doesn’t connect straight away, select it via your Network settings

2 Launch your browser, click ‘Buy Internet Access’ and purchase a plan Choose from the following plans

AerSocial €6.95 | $7.95 Up to 50MB

AerSurf €13.95 | $15.95 Up to 120MB The smart choice

AerMax €29.95 | $32.95 Up to 270MB

3 Enter a username and password and start browsing

2 Once you’re connected, you’ll receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile

*Mobile Network is available on A330 only

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

DERMATOLOGY RECOMMENDED SKINCARE AVAILABLE IN THE USA AND EUROPE

www.reformskincare.com

148

INFLIGHT

Welcome to your world -class airline We’re so proud of our 4-star Skytrax rating. Being celebrated on the world stage for our consistent quality and excellence in guest experience never gets old. We hope you enjoy your ight with us today.

restaurant

an ali st It D u bli n’s b e

manifesto

We are famous for our pizzas and home-made pasta, having won many medals and awards at the world pizza championships.

We are also known to have the most extensive and exclusive Italian wine list in Ireland.

est

r

Book a table today and let us transport you to the amalfi coast with our delicious food, excellent wine, charming staff and great atmosphere.

au

ran

t ou tsid e o f It a l y !

Manifesto Restaurant, 208 Lower Rathmines Road, Dublin 6. bookings: manifestobookings@gmail.com

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal

manufactured before your eyes Guided Factory Tours Daily

C: +353 (0) 51 317000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com W: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

tel: 01 496 8096

website: www.manifestorestaurant.ie

150

BOUTIQUE

TOP PICKS

Poised and punctual – turn back the clock in style with Boutique magazine’s sleek and chic watches.

ORLA KIELY STEM PRINT WATCH €25 Printed in cream, chestnut and honey hues, this Orla Kiely piece was inspired by autumnal bliss. Its glossy plastic strap, etched with curlicued stem prints, adds a trademark flair.

TIME BERLIN SMART WATCH €69 This hi-tech, sportystrapped timepiece is the ultimate multitasker: it snaps photos, shoots videos and records voice memos.

VERSACE VERSUS FIRE ISLAND €89 A bold statement piece, this steel watch is encased in yellow gold on a black silicone strap, decorated with Versace’s signature lions. Stainless steel case included.

MOON JADE JEWEL WATCH SET €22 This cool teal and rose gold watch features a multifaceted dome and comes with a trendy beaded bracelet set in matching colours.

DIAMOND & CO LONDON QUARTZ €38 A versatile, unisex watch, classically-styled with silver and gold accents, with a dazzling round quartz marking the 12 o’clock spot.

AirlinkExpress

Fly Straight to Dublin City Route 747

Route 757

IFSC & Point Village

IFSC & Point Village

Connolly Station & Busaras

Westland Row

O’Connell Street Temple Bar Heuston Station

Baggot Street Merrion Square & St. Stephen’s Green Camden (Charlotte Way)

€7 €12

One way

Departures up to every 10 minutes between Dublin Airport & City Tickets available at the Travel & Bus Information Desk (T1), Airlink Express Bus Stop, and On-Board

lunch in

st y l e from

€6.95

Return

airlinkexpress.ie

s destination for Dublin’

delicious

early bird

2 courses from

€25.95

Just a hop, skip and a jump from Grafton Street

The restaurant at Fallon & Byrne is housed upstairs, where the light streams through tall windows into one of the city’s most handsome rooms. The season’s good stuff from land and sea is cooked with gentle respect for excellent ingredients. All served by cheerful sorts in a buzzy, relaxed atmosphere.

11-17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 • fallonandbyrne.com • +353 1 472 1000 • restaurant@fallonandbyrne.com

152

A FINE VINTAGE

A DOSE OF WALT Sixty years ago saw the release of the film Darby O’Gill and the Little People – and a visit to Ireland by its producer Walt Disney.

‘A

touch of O’Blarney, a heap O’Magic and a load O’Laughter!’ was one of the exuberant taglines for Walt Disney’s 1949 yarn Darby O’Gill and the Little People, the 1959 bigscreen adaptation of Herminie Templeton Kavanagh’s titular collection of stories. Walt Disney Productions’ publicity department was single-minded from the outset: “Unlike previous campaigns, Darby O’Gill will have a readymade market potential of 20 million IrishAmericans. Special attention will be paid to these people with shamrocks in their eyes.” The Technicolor romp drew some criticism for its paddywhackery, while plenty more suspended their disbelief and enjoyed this tall tale of small people, ie leprechauns, wreaking havoc in a rural village, much to the bemusement of a winsome Sean

Connery – described at the time by New York Times critic AH Weiler as “merely tall, dark and handsome” – who’s trying to woo Janet Munro’s Katie, daughter of the fiddle-playing Darby, played by Albert Sharpe.

The film had its premiere in Dublin, where Connery, Munro, Walt and his wife Lillian and daughter Sharon were photographed, above, after arriving on an Aer Lingus plane. This October 11-13, the Warp and Weft Heritage Weekend (ardara.ie) celebrates the movie’s 60th anniversary in Adare, Co Donegal, which is where its screenwriter Larry Watkin met the real life fiddler Jimmy O’Rourke during his research – and is thought to have inspired the silver screen O’Gill. In addition to a showing of the film is an all-ages programme of talks, art exhibitions and trad sessions.

Win a share of

250,000 Avios

DREAM BIG AND TRAVEL FURTHER Want to win a share of 250,000 Avios?

As an AerClub member you can enter a free prize draw to WIN one of five 50,000 Avios prizes*.

What’s more, book with Avis by 30th November and enjoy a minimum of 1,400 Avios on your next rental of 3 days or more*. That’s 700 bonus Avios on top of the standard 700 Avios you earn as standard.

Discover Lisbon or explore Boston.

Where will your Avios take you?

W W W.C A R S . A E R L I N G U S .CO M

*For full Terms and Conditions, visit www.cars.aerlingus.com

STAY CONNECTED ONBOARD TODAY

Surf while you fly with our onboard mobile and Wi-Fi networks MOBILE NETWORK

Use your phone as you would on the ground*

WI-FI NETWORK (FROM €6.95)

AER SOCIAL 50MB

AER SURF 120MB

AER MAX 270MB

Stay social with friends & family

Perfect for web browsing

Stay connected for longer

FOR FULL DETAILS ON HOW TO CONNECT GO TO PAGE 146 IN YOUR CARA MAGAZINE *Roaming charges will apply

Services available on A330 only