Cara August 2015 by Image Publications

CARA Magazine August 2015

Let’s Talk Coffee

August 2015

Golfer Graeme McDowell Irish Heritage Week Las Vegas Toulouse Basque Country 5 Best Eco Resorts

We have created the best coffee you’ll enjoy on an airline this year. The coffee is handroasted in our Roastery in Dublin before being freshly ground and sealed in the bottom of each cup. It is then freshly brewed in your cup for you to enjoy.

The Burren

There’s a reason Aer Lingus, Ireland’s premier airline, chooses Java Republic coffee…

Pride of Pace

Slow Travel in The Burren

Bright Lights, Sin City Loco Las Vegas

In the Pink

Going Native in Toulouse

A Moveable Feast Basque Road Trip

Euro Star

Belgium’s Business Renaissance

Comporta Paris Chicago

Super Mac GRAEME McDOWELL’S LIFE-CHANGING YEAR

Brussels

IRISH HERITAGE WEEK WE MEET THE RESTORERS COMPLIMENTARY COPY

WELCOME TO IRELAND FROM AIB CORPORATE BANKING

Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248

Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219

Ireland’s No.1 Bank for Inward Investment. AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland. As the leading Inward Investment bank, we land more international business than any other, and we’ve helped some of the world’s most recognisable brands thrive. To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.

Source: AIB has the largest market share of day to day banking relationships amongst foreign direct investment companies, Ipsos MRBI AIB Foreign Direct Investment Research, February 2014. Allied Irish Bank, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.

Contents AUGUST 2015

Check in 05 ARRIVALS Well, hello there Dublin T2 passengers! 07

CHECK IN Our must-do August round-up

20 ON MY TRAVELS Ex-rugby player Brian O’Driscoll’s intrepid tales 22 MAKING WAVES Ruth Anna Coss’ beach gear edit 24 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Globetrotting with Film Fatale’s Anna Taylor 26 WEEKENDER Lucy White checks into the Hotel URSO Madrid 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s photography snapshot, and superior beach reads

54 Unbridled Burren

30 A MATTER OF TASTE Eoin Higgins meets chef Dylan McGrath 32

HIGH AND MIGHTY Lucy White’s Kilkenny Arts Festival picks

Las Vegas Recce

Features 34 RETURN OF THE MAC Dave Robbins welcomes Graeme McDowell back to the green 40 SALVAGE BEAUTY Lisa Hughes uncovers Irish Heritage Week via its restorers 54 TIME & TIDE The Burren is just perfect for slow travel, finds Oda O’Carroll

66 BASQUE IN THE LIGHT Nathalie Marquez Courtney feasts on Northern Spain

Everything Toulouse

80 VEGAS, BABY! Frances Power extols the virtues of Sin City 92 EVERYTHING TOULOUSE Clare O’Reilly is tickled pink in France 104 5BEST ECO RESORTS Environmentally-aware retreats by Catherine Murphy 112 MASTERCLASS Eleanor Costello says yo, sushi

Regulars

Business

117 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO CHICAGO Christine Gallagher Kearney’s hot-spots

124 EURO STAR Brussels’ best places to work, rest and play

114 48 HOURS IN PARIS Lucy White swoons in the city

Beach Kit Ahoy!

123 BUSINESS & LIFE Networking events and executive inspiration

120 SPOTLIGHT Kick back in Portugal’s Comporta

130 SMART TRAVELLER Fiona O’Brien of Lenovo Group on her love of Munich

139 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Your on-board news and entertainment

134 SLEEPS & EATS Niamh Wade samples London’s Covent Garden

168 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Rose of Tralee Maria Walsh’s nomadic year

136 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Robert Finnegan of Three Ireland’s work/life lessons

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Contributors Born in Mexico and raised in Ireland on a travelling circus, Nathalie Marquez Courtney ran away from the fun and frolics of the family business to study at UCD. She now edits Ireland’s best-selling home and decor title, Image Interiors & Living, but her love of the road has never waned. Join her on page 66 as she road trips around the Basque country, camera in hand and pintxo in mouth.

EDITORIAL Editor Jessie Collins Deputy Editor Lucy White Assistant Editor Eleanor Costello Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Niamh Wade, Eoin Higgins, Ruth Anna Coss and Bridget Hourican Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith Acting Art Director Fred Murray Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Sales & Partnership Director Rhona McAuliffe +353 (0)1 271 9634, rhona.mcauliffe@image.ie Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622, corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Niamh Wade, +353 (0)1 271 9653, niamh.wade@image.ie Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson Accounts Assistant Angela Bennett

Clare O’Reilly is a proud Tipperary woman who suffers from chronic wanderlust. This summer she’s based in Norway where she’s helping to build a 40-foot aluminium sailboat, upon which she hopes to start sailing the seven seas next year. A professional writer and amateur farmhand/boat-builder, Clare has written about her exploits in Hot Press, The Irish Examiner and the Irish Farmers’ Journal. Her favourite country to visit is France, and she writes about her choice French city, Toulouse, on page 92.

Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Laura George Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Robert Power, Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

Hailing from the windswept midwest town of Roscommon, Oda O’Carroll has previously written features for Cara on Florida and Malaga. A DIT Communications graduate, she has worked as a travel writer with Lonely Planet for 15 years authoring titles to Dublin, Corsica and the Caribbean among others, as well as contributing to Expedia, AOL, BBC and The Irish Times. For this issue she took her time mooching round Co Clare for a feature on slow travel, page 54. Oda currently lives in Dublin with husband and three kids and dog.

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie IMAGE Publications Ltd –

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL CORINNÉ VAUGHAN ON +353 (0)1 271 9622 OR EMAIL CORINNE.VAUGHAN@IMAGE.IE

ON THE COVER

Graeme McDowell, photographed by Anthony Woods at Portmarnock Golf Club, exclusively for Cara magazine.

Welcome to our new issue! We are all take yours. Feel free to ay for this magazine aw ey. your onward journ e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine

WHO? Michael and Gabriel Meyer FLYING IN FROM ... Orlando MICHAEL SAYS ... “We went over to America to watch my daughter come second representing America in a volleyball tournament. And we managed to fit in Universal Studios. We’re very happy to be home though.”

WHO? Kelly McQuaid FLYING IN FROM ... London KELLY SAYS ... “I commute from the UK, but I’m home to get married in Powerscourt. I have my dad’s suit with me. We’re off on our honeymoon next weekend, and it’s a surprise … I’ve a sneaking suspicion it’s somewhere in Europe but I have no idea where ...”

WHO? Kara McNamara FLYING IN FROM ... Dusseldorf KARA SAYS ... “I haven’t been in Ireland since 2009, and I’m glad to be back, even if I’m only here in Dublin for one night with work.”

Arrivals

Cara was waiting at Dublin’s Terminal 2 to talk travel (and weddings) with new arrivals.

WHO? Derek Rowen (aka Guggi, artist and U2 collaborator) FLYING IN FROM ... Montreal, via London GUGGI SAYS ... “I was in Montreal just hanging out with the guys, running riot.”

WORDS BY ELEANOR COSTELLO / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? Frances and William McDonogh FLYING IN FROM ... Chicago FRANCES SAYS ... “We live in Dublin and were over visiting our daughter for three weeks. Chicago is our home from home.”

WHO? Ilia Milan and Julie Young-Milan FLYING IN FROM ... Perth, via London ILIA SAYS ... “We’re over for a friend’s wedding in Kinsale. We’re so excited for the next week, especially the post-wedding barbeque.” WHO? Simona Orru and John Wright FLYING IN FROM ... Marseille JOHN SAYS ... “We were in France for the most incredible wedding. The weather was very good – around 32°c every day.”

WHO? Alessandro Solla FLYING IN FROM ... Montreal, via London ALESSANDRO SAYS ... “I was in Montreal visiting my brother for ten days. I’ve been living in Dublin for nine years now and I’m glad to be back home.”

AUGUST 2015

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See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

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■

Check in Swell Season

Get your Gatsby on at the second Jazz Age Lawn Party of the season this August 15-16. The crème de la crème of the “Retro Nouveau” movement will descend on Governors Island, New York, where flappers and fops, guys and dolls, will channel their inner Fitzgeralds while partaking in dance lessons, vintage photography, cocktailsupping and kids’ carnivals, while live music and showgirls play on. Ferries leave from Manhattan, and vice versa, every 30 minutes. jazzagelawnparty.com

Find out what’s on, where and when in August 2015

Check in Compiled by Lucy White, Eleanor Costello and Eoin Higgins.

STAY

4 Best Rooftop Pools Cool off in the city at one of these fine hotels ...

AC Hotel Málaga Palacio, Málaga Experience the buzz

of Malága’s port from above, at the top of this modern four-star. Take a load off after touring the neighbouring cathedral, the Alcazaba Castillo de Gibralfaro, or the nearby Picasso museum and enjoy the Spanish sun, uninterrupted, sangria in hand. B&B from €154 – but that view is priceless. marriott.com

The Merchant Hotel, Belfast The hot tub here

may not be a pool per se, but the intimate setting holds its own against even the Mediterranean’s best. Keep your fingers crossed that the rain stays away and admire up close Belfast’s famous Albert Memorial Clock on Queen’s Square. Rooms from £160 per night. themerchanthotel.com

Palácio Ramalhete, Lisbon Original wood floors

and ceramic tiles, antiques and light-flooded rooms make this former 18th-century mansion a welcome retreat from the city’s hustle and bustle. It has just twelve unique rooms and suites, a bar, beautiful public lounges and, arguably, best of all, a pool and sun deck nestled in the rooftops. Rooms from €147. palacio-ramalhete.com

Grand Bohemian Hotel, Orlando The pool at this

hotel, located in the heart of the Downtown Arts District, provides an oasis of calm away from Orlando’s screaming theme park mania. If the heat up top gets too much, visit the hotel’s very own eclectic art gallery. Double rooms, with incredibly creative interiors, start at $166. grandbohemianhotel.com

HAND LUGGAGE

Waterproof Wonders

YSL Volume Effet Faux Cils Waterproof Mascara, €32.50 at debenhams.ie

Underwater 35mm Film Camera, available in Aer Lingus’ onboard Boutique magazine, €12

CINEMA

Splashing Out The UK’s largest producer of open-air film screenings, Luna Cinema, is in full flow, with 120 screenings in 46 outdoor locations, from Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Gardens to the Isle of Wight’s Osborne House. We’re loving Brockwell Lido in London’s Herne Hill, where Jaws sold out last month. At the time of writing, tickets are available for The Truman Show on August 20 – but don’t be too envious of those punters supine on dinghies for two (alas, premium tickets are long gone). thelunacinema.com 8|

AUGUST 2015

Nixon Ultratide Watch powered by Surfline, €280 at nixon.com

Tank Waterproof Bluetooth Speaker, £29.95 at red5.co.uk

Xperia M4 Aqua Smartphone, €299 at sonymobile.com

MERCIS BV 1997

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EXHIBITION

RABBITING ON Miffy may be 60 years old this year but she’s not aged a day since her creator, Dutch artist Dick Bruna, first put pencil to paper. The evolution of the world’s most famous and best-loved bunny rabbit will feature at Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum from August 27 to November, where Miffy dust jackets, posters, collages and drawings will be displayed among artworks by Matisse, Léger and De Stijl, all of whom have influenced the now-retired Bruna. rijksmuseum.nl

EQUESTRIAN

Horsing Around Ireland’s largest equestrian event, the Discover Ireland Dublin Horse Show (dublinhorseshow.com), takes place at the RDS on August 5-9 and features the world’s best showjumpers. This event is not just for seasoned horse enthusiasts either, what with live music, family entertainment, food and drink also on offer, as well as Ladies Day on August 6. Alternatively, keep it casual from August 1623 at the Connemara Pony Festival (cpbs.ie), above right, in honour of the distinctive breed named after the landscape of the wild 10 |

AUGUST 2015

FESTIVAL

Can You Dig It? west. Their powerful build makes them excellent jumpers and great show ponies – see them up close on the

Wednesday to Friday, when they participate in everything from dressage to carriage driving.

uld e but at Puck Fair wo KID ROCKS Where els of a goat? The furry you see the crowning a parade, street monarch reigns over orks in the town of performances and firew fair.ie m August 10-12. puck Killorglin, Co Kerry, fro

Manchester’s urban garden festival, Dig the City, hosts a varied line-up including Irish garden designer and BBC presenter Diarmuid Gavin, incredible floral installations, DIY demonstrations and garden parties aplenty until August 6. Kids can try mud pie-making, join a barefoot walk or build a dry stone wall with the National Trust, while parents can visit show gardens for inspiration and then grab the goods at the flower market. Taking a rest from gardening is easy: down trowels at the Harvey Nichols’ Grey Goose Bar or St Ann’s Square beer garden. digthecity.co.uk

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MUSIC

Hooley Moley! The annual Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann (Music Festival of Ireland) gets underway in Sligo, August 9-16. Following rounds of regional and provincial heats, trad musicians will play in their respective categories, while judges whittle down numbers until a victor emerges. The fleadh is also an opportunity for an almighty hooley, and sideshows include theatre, exhibitions, live interviews with stalwarts of the scene and, of course, fantastic music. fleadhcheoil.ie

LITERATURE

Vanity Fare “If I am occasionally a little over-dressed, I make up for it by being always immensely over-educated.” It’s bon mot central at Oscar Wilde’s The Importance of Being Earnest, which is the fourth in-house production to open at Dublin’s lovely Smock Alley Theatre from August 3-22. The comic tale of two idle gents who use the same nom-de-plume for their secretive shenanigans is sure to have knowing audiences sniggering away. Moreover, it’s not just a show either – dinner or Sunday brunch, with a glass of wine, is included at €30 and €25 respectively. smockalley.com

DESIGN

OFF THE RAILS Bring all corners of Ireland into the comfort of your own home with a vintage-style travel poster by awardwinning illustrator Roger O’Reilly. “The idea for IrelandPosters.ie started with just two posters, Kilkenny and Drogheda,” O’Reilly explains, “my adopted city and my hometown, designed and printed partly as thank-you gifts to friends, and partly

CARNIVAL

HIT PARADE Britain’s biggest street party, the London Notting Hill Carnival, returns this August 29-31. The 49-year-old Afro-Caribbean cultural celebration attracts more than one million people, from families to old ravers, each one flocking to its food stalls, Calypso soundsystems, storytelling and poetry events – and of course, the colossal street parade on the Monday, which boasts 60 live bands. The carnival is one of London’s most exciting events so, if you’re too shy to dance along to the steel drums, just watch – the atmosphere alone is not to be missed. thelondonnottinghillcarnival.com

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because I figured there was a demand out there for some nicely-updated prints in the style of old railway posters. I’m constantly out sketching and drawing this fascinating country of ours, and I hope in time to have a poster for each county, north and south, and for most of the larger towns in between.” From €25; worldwide delivery. irelandposters.ie

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DIASPORA

Festival Firsts … It’s only been a year since Dublin-born Fergus Linehan took up the directorship of Edinburgh International Festival but the medieval city already feels like home. Having relocated from Sydney where, from 2004 to 2009, he was chief executive and artistic director of the Sydney Festival (he was director of the Dublin Theatre Festival from 1999 to 2004), the village atmosphere has many similarities to his first home. The son of an actress and an arts journalist, a life less ordinary was always on the cards (his brothers are a pianist and a journalist respectively) and, at just 29, he was one of the youngest Dublin Theatre Festival directors in its history, commissioning works by Seamus Heaney, as well as a new generation of Irish writers and choreographers. Sydney opened up a whole new world of opportunities and challenges. “When I went I was terrified because we were doing events in fields for 50 to 60,000 people and I’d never ever done anything like that.” As well as curating re-stagings of Lou Reed’s Berlin and pieces by Björk, Linehan created Festival First Night, turning Sydney city centre into an open-air festival, with more than six stages, drawing over 300,000 people, as well as working on considered works with the likes of Cate Blanchett and Nick Cave. For his first year at Edinburgh, he has installed an opening event outside Usher Hall consisting of a 3D projected art work accompanied by a choral concert piece. Other festival highlights include the production of Mozart’s The Magic Flute by the Komische Oper from Berlin, as well as a production of Antigone with Juliette Binoche, which ran at London’s Barbican earlier this year. And now that he’s on the northern hemisphere, he’s back and forth to Dublin often, with The Stag’s Head on Dublin’s Dame Court still one of his favourite pubs. “The thing I do like about coming home is that people just pick up exactly where you left off, as if nothing had happened in the meantime. It’s always a bit weird because there’s literally a memory on every corner. I’ve been away for nearly twelve years now, and you come back and go, ‘Oh I know exactly what happened there ...’ so it’s kind of extraordinary.”

EOIN CAREY

The Edinburgh International Festival takes place from August 7 to 31. eif.co.uk

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AUGUST 2015

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FOOD

4 Best Summer Sips

Dún Laoghaire’s Oliveto enjoys a prime spot overlooking the harbour. Proprietor David Larkin selects his favourite restaurants for outdoor eating and drinking (including his own) ...

Boundary, Shoreditch, London This is possibly one of the best locations in which to enjoy summer drinks and the food is exactly the pared-back Mediterranean style you would expect from a Terence Conrandesigned space. Sip on … A Sloe Gin Fizz pitcher with rosemary, lemon and soda water – the perfect way to kick off an evening out in London. theboundary.co.uk

Drogheria Della Rossa, Bologna What was once a pharmacy in central Bologna is now a traditional trattoria, serving Bolognese cooking with a nod to southern Italy. Gorge on classic tagliatelle ragus and homemade ravioli, along with incredible meats and seasonal vegetables. Sip on ... Aperol spritzers and outstanding wines under the arches with the sun on your back. drogheriadellarosa.it

Roberta’s, Brooklyn This institution continues to stay true to its hipster roots – great pizza, amazing cocktails, eclectic furniture, Metallica blasting on the speakers, all mixed with great service. Feast on ... Woodfired pizzas, great market salads and a small selection of seasonal pasta dishes – all washed down in the garden with a top cider of gin, lavender, grapefruit and lemon. robertaspizza.com

Oliveto, Dublin I might be biased but its winning combination of classic Italian dishes with chargrilled meats and fish, in one of the best dining locations on the east coast of Ireland. Feast on ... Lobster ravioli, grilled squid or osso bucco and sip boozy lemonades and frozen daiquiris in the new garden hut bar overlooking the east pier. Pure bliss. oliveto.ie

BARBECUE

FESTIVAL

The Heat is On

Boisterous Oysters

Nothing says summer quite like the whiff of charcoal, so we warmly welcome back the Big Grill Festival on August 13-16 at Dublin’s Herbert Park. This year’s outing has even bigger and better offerings, including special guests Levi “Reggae Reggae” Roots, DJ Yoda, Kerryman and head chef of Jamie Oliver’s Barbecoa, John Relihan, and Tyson Ho, pitmaster/ owner of Brooklyn’s Arrogant Swine beer hall, which specialises in whole hog barbecue. Food stalls, craft beer, a cocktail bar and live bands will also feature, while the Flaming Chilli Eat-Off returns for those of hardy oesophagi. biggrillfestival.com

All hail the mollusc meet‘n’greet – Carlingford Oyster Festival on August 7-10, Co Louth. The event brings together local food, drinks and entertainment to exalt the best of Irish seafood through cooking demos, guided historical tours, an oystershucking competition and a whole load of craic for all ages. carlingfo carlingford.ie

mmunity sh craft brewing co Iri e th of ad he y m ea Irish Craft Beer HOP STUFF The cr gust 27-29 for the Au is th S RD ’s in bl taste buds assemble in Du s hope to wow the ew br 0 20 an th e or M and Cider Festival. shcraftbeerfestival.ie Entry from €10. iri s. ee of attend

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Wish you were here

New York’s David Greene was “continually awestuck” by the scenery while on the Wild Atlantic Way in June. Of this shot of Co Kerry’s rugged coastline, he says: “Nothing stopped me in my tracks more than this expansive scene with more shades of green and blue than imaginable. I prayed my camera could capture the view. Luckily it did.”

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Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll publish our favourite shot in the September issue. The technicals: Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and please include 100 words about you and the story behind the shot. The editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decision is final.

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On My Travels

Rugby star turned app developer Brian O’Driscoll tells Eleanor Costello about his holidays and, er, crowd surfing.

Brian O’Driscoll is a former professional rugby union player. Having captained and played for both Leinster and Ireland over a period of 15 years, he retired from the professional sport in 2014. He now works in a number of capacities, in both the business and sporting worlds, from technology to TV punditry. He has been married to his writer/actress wife Amy Huberman since 2010, and they have two children. f I could fly anywhere tomorrow I would go to … New York City – it’s the best city in the world. Absolutely loads to see and do, brilliant restaurants, a fantastic array of cultures and New Yorkers have their own style of “slick” that everyone tries to copy. Also the terrace at Brass Monkey Bar in the Meatpacking District is a must. Childhood holidays involved ... Spending large chunks of the summer between Cork and Dingle with our cousins on my mum’s side. Our own family also went to France every summer. The folks would load up the car, we’d drive from Dublin to Rosslare and get the ferry over to Le Havre. The boat was always an adventure, barring the odd sea sickness episode. Once we got to France, we would head

WELSH RUG BY UNIO

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south and enjoy a few weeks on French campsites with lots of swimming, wind surfing, kids’ camps, barbecues and making new friends from all over Europe. Very happy times – something I hope to do with my wife and kids. The one gadget I couldn’t travel without … Has to be my iPhone. It has everything on it – my up-to-date diary, emails, apps and all my work info. It also has some thoroughly entertaining videos of my kids. Over the last three years, I’ve been working with a team on a rugby app called Ultimate Rugby (ultimaterugby.com) for rugby fans globally – it also allows me to keep up to speed with all my punditry needs. My ideal travel companion is … My wife. Before we had our children [Sadie, two, and Billy, nine months], Amy and I loved to travel far and wide. Now that we have our little ones we currently

tend to stay closer to home but always make time to have a few weekends away on our own. The first thing to go into my suitcase when travelling is … A portable phone charger – my iPhone is an extension of me right now, and my battery seems to be gone by lunch time. When I'm homeward bound after a trip away ... There is something very special about travelling into Dublin over Howth Head. It gives you a warm feeling even if it's bucketing down rain. When I’m away the things I miss most are … Family, friends and my own bed. Since retiring ... I’m big into Reformer Pilates. It is keeping me fit so Milena and Will at Platinum Pilates know not to let me slacken off. My best Rugby World Cup memories are of … Spending time in a place called Terrigal, north of Sydney, where we

had our base in the 2003 RWC. It brings back some great memories – what a beautiful spot. To pass the time when travelling … I like to catch up on news on my iPad or even read the previous Sunday’s papers. They can be an all-week read. Even though I’ve retired, I am still on the go and travel a lot with work commitments. There are also articles to be written on the website (brianodriscoll.com). I’m enjoying giving my opinion on items of interest. My idea of holiday heaven includes … Family, 23-degree temperatures and clear skies (ideal for this skin complexion), a top golf course, water park, Mediterranean fruit, excellent seafood, good Sauvignon Blanc. And, of course, somewhere to have the odd night of crowd surfing!

3 Best Places to Watch the Rugby World Cup …

Millenium Stadium The first match at Cardiff’s Millenium Stadium, left, during the tournament is Ireland v Canada at 2.30pm, September 19. The home of welsh rugby is a brilliant venue and with a fully retractable roof, it means the revelries will not be overly subject to the elements. millenniumstadium.com

Twickenham The London suburb boasts the world’s largest stadium solely devoted to rugby and so fittingly the 2015 World Cup opens there on September 18 with England v Fiji, and closes six weeks later. Just 16km from the city centre, the area is likely to be awash with fans and players alike. englandrugby.com

Villa Park Home to Aston Villa Football Club, Villa Park is one of the oldest stadiums in the world. Sitting in the heart of Birmingham, this pitch will host South Africa v Samoa and Australia v Uruguay in late September. Don’t forget to check out the unusual red brick façade of the Holte End on your way in. avfc.co.uk

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My Travel Notebook

FAILTE IRELAND

AILBHE O’DONNELL

ANNA TAYLOR is the event producer of Film Fatale, which runs immersive screenings of golden-era classics at Dublin’s The Sugar Club. She’ll be the hostess with the mostess at its sold-out Prohibition Ball in IMMA, Royal Hospital Kilmainham, on August 15, with a Halloween soirée there on October 31. Used to time-travelling, she tells Lucy White about her favourite here-and-now hotspots.

FAVOURITE DESTINATION FOR VINTAGE SHOPPING? “New York for its vast array and quality although my favourite vintage shop is Dirty Fabulous on Dublin’s Wicklow Street (dirtyfabulous.com). It’s so tastefully and thoughtfully curated and laid out. It’s an experience just to browse.”

FAVOURITE WEEKEND BREAK? “Paris is the little black dress of holidays – it’s classic, timeless and never gets boring. A bench at Musée de l’Orangerie (musee-orangerie.fr) gazing at Monet’s “Water Lilies” is my idea of heaven. I always try and catch a classic film at one of the characterful Left Bank arthouse cinemas.” BEST HOTEL YOU’VE EVER STAYED IN? “Not a hotel but an apartment, in Dumbo, New York, that offered movie-scape views of the city and Manhattan Bridge. Right by the front door was the spot of an iconic scene from Once Upon a Time in America.”

MOST SURPRISING PLACE YOU’VE EVER VISITED? “The labyrinthine city of Fez in Morocco is such a strange and disorientating place – it’s a medieval city completely unchanged by time.”

BEST BAR YOU’VE EVER PROPPED UP? “Lantern’s Keep in The Iroquois Hotel, New York (iroquoisny.com), is a wellconcealed gem amidst the madness of midtown. A maestro mixologist there introduced my husband and I to some unforgettable drinks on the night we got engaged.”

Anna’s Carry-on Items ... 1 Grace Kelly Pearl Necklace, €105 at newbridgesilverware.com 2 Orla Kiely Margot Bag £272.30 at orlakiely.com 3 Microsoft Surface Pro 3, €791 at harveynorman.ie 4 Charlotte Tilbury Red Carpet Red Lipstick, €30 at brownthomas.com 5 Mint Velvet Trench Coat, €149 at mintvelvet.co.uk

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AUGUST 2015

3 2 5

CHILDHOOD HOLIDAYS CONSISTED OF … “Beautiful Irish beaches, where I collected shells, ate ice cream and turned blue with the cold.”

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Caught in the Idyll Madrid’s URSO Hotel & Spa is just the ticket for a weekend away, finds Lucy White.

ometimes, you just Metro station a five-minute walk want to take the away. Summer is ideal for a stroll scenic route. And in the city, not least around the so, every time Parque del Retiro, which boasts I return back to the 350 hectares of public gardens, handsome URSO Hotel after a day sculptures, bandstands and a pounding the calles and plazas, boating lake. Be sure to check out I snub the shiny, newfangled lifts the exquisite glass pavilion Palacio and take the original, wroughtde Cristal, which hosts fine iron elevator up the stained-glass art exhibitions. stairwell to our sleek deluxe room. Continue the art theme Madrid’s URSO Hotel is the by carrying on to perfect balance of ornamentation the nearby Prado and restrained elegance, from its (museodelprado.es) that’s 19th century neoclassical façade to famously festooned the clean lines and muted palette with works by the of the 78 guest rooms and suites. Old Masters. Before In between is a lot of contemporary chiaroscuro fatigue sets in, Chinoiserie, its centrepiece a lightbe sure to seek out Goya’s filled conservatory where breakfast sombre “Black Paintings” is served against a backdrop of – “Half-Submerged fabric wallpaper, potted bamboo Dog” is devastating in its plants and vertical, grassy knolls. simplicity and a surprisingly This month the five-star fitting segue into URSO celebrates its contemporary first birthday and it’s galleries BUENO showing no signs of the Reina Sofia BOLTHOLE premature ageing. (free admission Summer stays at the It’s in a classy every Monday, URSO Hotel & Spa are from neighbourhood Wednesday to €200 B&B in a double room, between the Saturday 7pmand from €570 B&B in a Chamberi, 9pm, Sundays terrace suite, both based Tribunal 1.30pm-7pm; on two people sharing. and Chueca museoreinasofia. hotelurso.com districts, the es) and Thyssen Bo Alonso Martínez Bornemisza (free

Rise and shine – URSO Hotel’s terrace suite, top, is a glorious suntrap in the busy Spanish capital. Above, spoilt for choice at Pizzeria Tonda in the Mercado San Miguel.

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AUGUST 2015

Mondays noon until 4pm; museothyssen.org). No trip to Madrid though is complete without eating and drinking your way around it, and on this trip we zoned in on its buzzy food markets. The recently opened Barceló (mercadobarcelo.es) is directly opposite the URSO, while, in contrast, is the historic ironand-glass Mercado San Miguel (mercadodesanmiguel.es), which has a stomach-growling array of treats, from tapas to sweets to fresh pizzas (my forest mushrooms, spicy gorgonzola, mozzarella and basil concoction at Pizzeria Tonda was sublime), plus vermouth, cocktail, beer, wine and sherry bars. Also great fun is the Mercado San Fernando (mercadodesanfernando.es), or, colloquially “el mercado de Lavapiés”, where live entertainment enriches the masses – we were treated to a local tap-dancing troupe wh while chowing on fresh gambas. How’s that for a city of diversity?

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Shelf Life|

Bridget Hourican browses a landmark photography book, and talks travel with Hanya Yanagihara ra.

Behind the Lines

E S T ER H O FF

PETER MAGUBANE

American novelist Hanya Yanagihara on her book, and why New York City rocks.

BARDCORE

It’s never too early for Shakespeare: Carnation PHOTOGRAPHY VISIONARIES edited by Theatre’s new puppet show Mary Warner Marien (Laurence King, The Merchant of Ennis is for £24.95) This is a stunning book that seven-to-twelve year-olds at dlr showcases the work of 75 photographers LexIcon Library, Co Dublin. from the early days of Eugène Atget and his August 20. Free; booking 19th-century Parisian streetscapes, to Liu essential. libraries. Zheng snapping rural China today. Here are the dlrcoco.ie

expected (Dorothea Lange, André Kertész, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Robert Capa, Nan Goldin) alongside the lesser-known arftul experimentalists (Hannah Höch, Claude Cahun) and socio-political narratives, such as Peter Magubane’s images of South Africa, including “Ceremonies” above. Stern decisions have been taken: no Robert Doisneau, Cecil Beaton or Helmut Newton, because the focus is on “visionaries” not mere fame. While a few decisions are surprising – no space for Diane Arbus but Annie Leibovitz gets in? – the choice of photographers and photos is mostly relevant and revelatory, and the commentary brief, pithy and elegant.

WHAT IS YOUR NEW NOVEL A LITTLE LIFE ABOUT? At its heart, male friendship. But I hope it’s about other things as well: how we age, loneliness and the limits of what one person can do for another. WHERE DID YOU WRITE IT? Mostly at home in Manhattan, but significant sections were also written while on trips to Bali and Japan. IT’S SET IN NEW YORK. WHAT’S YOUR OWN RELATIONSHIP WITH THE CITY? I’m not one of those people who thinks New York is the best city in the world (that would be Tokyo). But I do think it has its own inimitable brand of energy and fizz, one that comes from a group of ambitious people being squeezed onto an island and left to duke it out. Like rats in a bag – but interesting rats. FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN NYC? When the weather’s cool, I like to go on hours-long walks up the West Side Highway. FAVOURITE PLACE TO HOLIDAY? Japan. I’ve gone every year for two weeks for the past 17-odd years. Also, India – I try to go every other year. BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON A JOURNEY? I always recommend Vikram Chandra’s Sacred Games or Amitav Ghosh’s Ibis trilogy for long-haul flights. YOU’RE COMING TO DUBLIN THIS MONTH. WHAT ARE YOU MOST LOOKING FORWARD TO DOING OR SEEING? There’s an excellent food scene there. I’d like to try some vegetable-heavy restaurants. Hanya Yanagihara’s A Little Life (Picador, £14.99) is out now. She will be giving a reading at Dublin’s Morrison Hotel on August 25, tickets €5. To book, email info@dubraybooks.ie

3 Beach Reads … THE MARK AND THE VOID by Paul Murray (Hamish Hamilton, hardback €26 and pbk) Skippy Dies took all by storm, so get ready to have an opinion on the new Paul Murray. Stylish, witty meta-fiction about the subject du jour, the bank crisis: workaholic, Dublin-based French banker meets mysterious writer, who forces him out of mammon and into love with a Greek waitress …

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AUGUST 2015

VILLA AMERICA by Liza Klaussmann (Picador, £12.99) Klaussmann proved she could do moneyed American ennui in Tigers in Red Weather, set in 1950s Martha’s Vineyard; now she goes further back, to Antibes in the 1920s, where rich expats Gerald and Sarah Murphy play host to Picasso, Hemingway, Scott and Zelda. Cue Jazz Age flourishes founded on real people and real events.

CAKES, CUSTARD AND CATEGORY THEORY by Eugenia Cheng (Profile, £12.99) For those who are missing Countdown, here’s a chatty, amusing introduction to maths, starting basic and climbing to category theory. The University of Sheffield professor turns maths into recipes – which could be seen as a gimmick, but actually helps with seeing and solving the problem.

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A Matter of Taste Chef Dylan McGrath has turned to Japan for inspiration. Eoin Higgins quizzes the man himself about his latest venture inspired by the Far East. ery often we don’t pioneer, there is a fine line ne between copy and d influence … good artists copy, great artists steal … but at what point do you claim it as your own? Maybe that doesn’t matter but what does matter, to me, is that Dublin eats it.” Dublin’s chef enfant terrible, Belfast-raised Dylan McGrath, and his high stakes poker-playing business partner, Vincent Melinn, have done a lot of globetrotting over the past year in search of inspiring tastes. The result of their gastronomic questing has just opened on Dublin’s bohemian South Great George’s Street. Taste at Rustic by Dylan McGrath is a mouthful, in more ways than one. In a daring move, McGrath and Melinn have focused their kaleidoscopic attention on Japan, having been inspired by the aesthetics, techniques and flavour/ taste iterations from the land of the rising sun to create an original Dublin restaurant that is greater than the sum of its parts. An invitation to explore the taste spectrum – sweet, sour, bitter, salty, umami – is

a dining opportunity that has been welcomed by most grub enthusiasts worth their salt in the city. And the experience, cast as it is in the accomplished and innovative cooking from a previously Michelin-starred chef, has ensured this has become a must-visit restaurant within weeks of opening. “We wanted to bring a Japaneseinspired offering to Dublin and raise the standard of sushi above anything else that’d been done here before. While doing that – and I mean this from the bottom of my stomach – we’ve also tried to enhance Irish ingredients that may have been partially ignored in

East, pray, love – Dylan McGrath, above right, has plundered the best of Japanese cuisine for his own dishes, left.

3 New Restaurant Openings …

PATRICK MCKAY PHOTOS

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Cookbook Café, Co Dublin The brainchild of chef Audrey McDonald, this buzzy restaurant, left, in South Dublin’s Sandycove has breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner menus which traverse the Middle East, Mexico, the Mediterranean and good aul’ Ireland. Meanwhile, her husband DJ Tom Dunne provides the soundtrack to Sunday brunches. cookbookcafe.ie

Magnolia’s on King, Washington DC Deepfried oyster po-boy sliders. Bison meatloaf. Fried catfish with cornbread. Southern staples are on offer at chef Brian Row’s latest venture in a bright and airy property on King Street in Old Town Alexandria. The upstairs cocktail lounge is a nice touch. magnoliasonking.com

the past: our great, yet underused seaweeds; certain fish that may have been sidelined and so on,” says McGrath. “At the same time we are also relying somewhat on imported fish for authenticity. For instance, when it comes to toro [the fatty side of the tuna belly] it’s not something that I can find in Ireland, so we’ve had to source that overseas.” Fish aside, there’s also plenty of kushiyaki (meats cooked over hot coals) on offer, while blow-torched this, that, and the other, and ethereal miso soups elevated with delicate flavours (think cockles and shiitake) conspire to create a taste experience that is truly something to savour. Taste at Rustic by Dylan McGrath, 17 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2, 01 707 9596; tasteatrustic.com

O Boufés, Vienna Situated beside Konstantin Filippou’s Restaurant – which received a Michelin star last year – this shabby chic bistro offers a selection of organic and biodynamic vino and an à la carte menu, sample dishes including crispy pig’s nose chips with sour cream, and bonito with pickled cucumber, mustard and potato vichyssoise. konstantinfilippou.com

Enjoy REDBREAST Sensibly. Visit

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High and Mighty

KAMIKAZE CUTESAUCE COSPLAY © ANDY WALSH

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AUGUST 2015

EL L

FA R

Top, master conductor William Christie returns, his ensemble Les Arts Florissants in tow. Above, Liz Roche Company’s dance piece Bastard Amber.

3 More Ace Arts Festivals …

New York International Fringe, August 14-30 The stats for North America’s largest multiarts festival say it all: Some 75,000 punters will attend 200 shows and 1,100 performances across 18 venues in downtown Manhattan over 16 jam-packed days. Cue a plethora of leftfield theatre, left, music, comedy, vaudeville, opera, dance, children’s theatre, puppetry and performance art. fringenyc.org

In contrast, the setting for the Architects of Air’s new luminarium Mirazozo is resolutely contemporary – an inflatable labyrinthine structure inspired by Islamic art in Castle Park (August 8-16). And still riding high on the commercial and critical success of their Oscarnominated film Song of the Sea, the Kilkenny-based Cartoon Saloon present an interactive multimedia exhibition at the Butler Gallery, offering a behindthe-scenes insight in the animated movie-making process (August 7-16).

element at the 18 concerts in some seriously evocative venues, among them Kilkenny Castle, St Canice’s Cathedral, St John’s Priory – and the Black Abbey, at candlelight. A series of lectures on the German composer complement the musical offerings. Speaking of atmospheric settings, DruidShakespeare’s triptych – Mark O’Rowe’s genderbending adaptations of Richard II, Henry IV (parts I and II) and Henry V, directed by Garry Hynes – is fresh from New York’s Lincoln Center and will play en plein air at the historic Castle Yard (August 6-15). And Dante’s Inferno will be unleashed in Dunmore Caves by former US poet laureate and founder of The Favourite Poem Project, Robert Pinsky (August 12). To mark his new writer-inresidence status in Kilkenny, the American wordsmith will also be introduced by Colm Tóibín (August 14) and spearheading readings of favourite poetry by festival artists andlocal students (August 15) – both events at Kilkenny Castle’s Parade Tower.

went to Kilkenny College at a remarkable time in history. Along with my fellow scholars; William Congreve, the playwright and Bishop Berkeley, the philosopher and writer (af ter whom Berkeley University, California is named) we were at the centre of a lively cultural and intellectual movement in Kilkenny city which I am pleased to see is mirrored in Kilkenny today.” So said Dublin writer Jonathan Swift (1667-1745), who is unlikely turning in his grave at this year’s Kilkenny Arts Festival programme come August 7-16 (kilkennyarts.ie). On the right side of high-brow, this 42nd outing showcases talent from at home and away, including two world music superstars: master of the sarod, or Indian lute, Amjad Ali Khan (August 12), and Mali’s Toumani Diabaté, who makes feather-light work of the 21-stringed kora (August 8). Furthermore, gamelan gets an airing; traditional Indonesian ensemble music here reimagined by Julie Feeney, Duke Special, Martin Hayes, Iarla Ó Lionáird and more (August 13). Elsewhere, fans of JS Bach will be in their

DENIS ROUVRE

Could this year’s Kilkenny Arts Festival be any more sophisticated? Lucy White gets with the programme.

Wilderness, August 6-9 An eclectic picnic at Oxfordshire’s Conbury Park, an hour from Heathrow. Highlights include star chefs (Angela Hartnett, Raymond Blanc), Björk, George Clinton and Ben Howard, plus our very own Róisín Murphy and Camille O’Sullivan. Also: a lakeside spa, talks and workshops, from stonemasonry to Coco de Mer ‘Seduction Tips’ ... wildernessfestival.com

Birr Vintage Week and Arts Festival, until August 7 This annual event is in its 47th year but there’s nothing fusty about its multifaceted programme for all ages, including the opening parade, artisan and craft markets, a donkey derby, sporting and literary events, busking competitions, film screenings, fireworks, art trails and a vintage costume competition. birrvintageweek.com

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INTERVIEW

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AUGUST 2015

RETURN OF THE MAC From majors to minors, Graeme McDowell has had a busy year. He talks to Dave Robbins about fatherhood, the psychology of winning and paying it forward. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

ortmarnock Golf Club lies on a spit of land dangling into the Irish Sea north of Howth. It’s classic links country: sandy soil, dunes lined with Marram grass and a breeze that, when it blows, separates the golfers from the mere hackers. It has one of those gabled Edwardian clubhouses that make you think of PG Wodehouse, niblicks, plusfours and the poetry of John Betjeman. It hosted the first-ever Irish Open golf championship in 1927 and has done so many times since. More recently, its menonly rule has meant that big tournaments

have moved elsewhere, south to Fota Golf Resort in Cork or west to Carton House in Kildare. The club is in the middle of a consultation process with a view to allowing women members, but for the moment, Portmarnock remains resolutely old school. So why are there mums with buggies in the paneled lobby? And toddlers on the tartan patterned carpet? And, more shocking still, why are there kids running around the tee of the short par three 10th? Apparently, it’s all to do with Graeme McDowell, who is meeting up with the families he brought to Florida through his

charitable GMac Foundation last year. For the past few years, McDowell has hooked up with the Children’s Medical Research Foundation at Our Lady’s Hospital for Sick Children in Crumlin and Aer Lingus to bring sick children, their families and their medical support teams on a dream holiday to Orlando. McDowell, at this stage a veteran of the European and US Tours at age 35, and a former US Open Champion, mixes easily with the mums, dads and kids on the teebox as they have their photos taken. But the real star of the show is Ian Millmore-O’Connor, an eight-year-old

with Williams Syndrome who had open-heart surgery at Crumlin. He swings a club over the hallowed turf. “Dad, did I score a goal?” he asks and everyone laughs. This last trip – the one on which Ian and his friends went – was special, because McDowell had become a father himself f or the first time immediately beforehand. His wife Kristen gave birth to their daughter Vale Esmé (more about that name later) last August. He is also stepfather to Kirsten’s daughter Valyn, aged six. “Becoming a father myself, this trip recently was a little different,” he says as we talk in the clubhouse. “I felt different meeting the kids and being thankful obviously for having a healthy baby. Having a child with infant heart disease, it’s pretty scary stuff, so this time round I really felt that my perspective had changed.” His stepdaughter also meets the Crumlin children. “We’ve had the six-year-old come to the previous three dinners we’ve done with the kids. I want to give my kids ways to understand and appreciate what they have. It’s always very hard to make a kid appreciate what they have, to be thankful, I guess.” McDowell plans to bring the 36 |

AUGUST 2015

“I want to give my kids ways to understand and appreciate what they have” new arrival along to the Crumlin dinners too when she gets older. For the moment, though, he is still in something of a new-dad bubble. At the time of our interview, he has had a run of poor performances and had spoken about the difficulties of playing on both the PGA (American) and European circuits. (A few days later, he puts in a great performance at the Scottish Open in Gullane Golf Club in East Lothian). “I think a big part of what I’ve been going through in the last few months is a priority change,” he says. “Having a new baby in the house, and the family growing, I think I’ve taken my eye off the ball from a practice point of view and probably not given the game of golf the mental energy and the physical commitment that I’ve given it over the years. I think it’s taken me a little bit of time to realise that. But good problems [to have], you know. “Getting on a plane is becoming more difficult all the time. I mean,

Stepping up – Graeme McDowell may have taken time out to spend time with his young family, but he’s far from resting on his laurels.

my nine-month-old hasn’t got to the point where she says ‘Daddy don’t leave!’ you know, so I haven’t experienced that one yet, but it’s coming very soon. It’s going to be a great time but a tough time in my life as well.” When he talks about his family, his famous Portrush-meetsAlabama accent thickens with feeling. He recalls the time after his daughter was born in a hospital in Orlando. “My wife loves unusual names. When it came to naming our daughter, I learned that my opinion was only an opinion. In the end, you know, the mom carries the thing round for nine months and she has naming rights,” he laughs. “They don’t let you leave the hospital until you have given the baby a name, so we had 48 hours. We came up with Vale first and then Colin’s wife [his manager Colin Morrissey] Anna found Esmé. I thought naming a restaurant was hard, but naming a child is even harder,” he says, referring to Nona Blue, his

restaurant at Lake Nona in Orlando. If anyone has the mental strength to pull out of a run of bad form, then it’s McDowell. He takes the mental side of the game very seriously. “We’ve all experienced that second of walking on to a green and seeing a 30-foot putt and having this flash of inspiration and you hole the putt and you go, ‘I knew I was going to hole that’,” he says, looking at me. I nod, but it’s never happened to me. “That’s a little bit of an insight into how strong the brain and mind can be if you give it the right information. I love that stuff. On and off over the years I’ve always worked with a sports psychologist. One of the things they have you do is to write down three great shots you’ve hit that day. And to describe them as vividly as you can: where’s the wind, and what are you feeling, what are you smelling, what did the shot look like.

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INTERVIEW

McDowell chipping on the 2nd hole during the Singles Matches of the 2014 Ryder Cup at the Gleneagles Hotel on September 28, 2014 in Auchterarder, Scotland.

“They get you to create a positive diary of some great shots so that you can recall those even more easily. I think visualisation, being able to feel great shots and being able to visualise great shots is very important, even for the

handicap golfer.” As part of his pre-game routine, McDowell looks at a couple of inspirational videos of his own play. “I had a couple of companies make me little 90-second, two-minute highlights reels. Just so that I have a little bit of a something to spark me into remembering how great a player I am. Because you know it’s easy to forget it. You get bogged down with the technicalities of trying to get better and you forget about the great things you’ve achieved.” When I ask him about shots he’d like to delete from his memory hard drive, he has to think. “I’m pretty good at putting bad shots behind me,” he says. Then one comes to

him. “You know I remember, at Lytham [in the Open Championship of 2012] when Adam Scott finished bogey-bogey to lose to Ernie [Els], I was playing with Adam in the last round. I was standing on the 10th tee, and at the time I was probably ahead of Ernie and you know, I thought Adam really had it under control and I was trying to force the issue a little bit and, on the par five 11th or 12th, I pull-hooked a threewood into the junk and I made a double-bogey I think. Those are shots that I’d like to try again.” He shakes his head at the memory. But soon, he is looking forward again, to the Irish Open, rumoured to be at the K Club in Kildare next year (September 30 to October 2), and to more time with his new family. “Obviously, having a family is what it’s all about, one of the beautiful things in life, so I’m starting to reprioritise, and realise that I still love the game and that I still want that. “I’m working out how I squeeze everything into my life and working out how I have the time to spend with my family but, at the same time, to be the best player I can be.” Sounds like a plan.

COURSE IN IRELAND “Waterville, Co Kerry. I love it down there in that part of the world, it’s just magical, a magical part of Ireland, and the hospitality that I’ve received the few times I’ve been to Waterville has been second to none. I reckon it’s just a fantastic golf club.”

GOLFING MEMORY His four Ryder Cup appearances: 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014. “There’s nothing quite like sharing that experience with 11 other guys and everyone involved with the European team and the European Tour. I put those four Ryder Cups – win, lose or draw – up there as some of the most amazing experiences in golf for me.” GOLF HOLE The 13th hole at Augusta National right home of the Masters right, tournament. “It’s the third

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hole of the Amen Corner stretch and it’s just a phenomenal riskreward Par 5, and the beauty of the azaleas in the background, and the west bunker and Ray’s Creek meandering in front of the green ... it’s wonderful.”

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SALVAGE BEAUTY From rescuing sunken feats of engineering to restoring temples, the National Heritage Week volunteers are our unsung heroes. Lisa Hughes profiles some of the groups resurrecting our history. Photographs by Al Higgins.

reland’s biggest cultural event isn’t a rock concert or music festival, it’s National Heritage Week (heritageweek.ie) Unlike most European countries who only celebrate it for a couple of days, in Ireland a full week is devoted to heritage. Running from August 22 to 30, the theme of this year’s event is industrial and design heritage, encompassing everything from railways to canals and from mills to machines, and a host of all-but-forgotten traditional skills in between. This year is a particularly important one for the Heritage Council. “Ten years ago the Heritage Council took on responsibility for coordinating and promoting National Heritage Week,” explains Michael Starrett, CEO of the Heritage Council. “Heritage Week has grown from 400 events in 2005 to 1,800 events in 2015, and 400,000 attendees are expected. This year also marks the 20th anniversary of the establishment of the Heritage Council. All the research shows the economic value of investing in heritage in terms of jobs creation and 40 |

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boosting tourism, as well as the sense of well-being that derives from living and working in landscapes that are protected and cared for.” More than 1,000 organisations and community groups across Ireland are hosting events and these volunteers are the backbone of the festivities. “With National Heritage Week we celebrate the work of thousands of local enthusiasts and experts who give their time to the preservation and protection of our national heritage,” says Michael. “It is also a fantastic opportunity for the whole family to explore their local community and see it through the fascinating perspective of heritage.” For visitors to Ireland, Heritage Week is also a great opportunity to meet a real insider in a town you’re visiting and get insights through guided walks and talks that you won’t get from a guidebook. Underpinning the work of the Heritage Council and providing a vital link with volunteers is the heritage officer in each county who advises and guides community and heritage groups,

culminating in a diverse mix of events for everyone. One heritage officer who has been involved from the beginning is Shirley Clerkin, heritage officer of Co Monaghan, who guides community and heritage groups in everything from funding applications to public relations and provides invaluable conservation advice. “Heritage is as vast as a landscape and as small as an inscribed headstone and the lichen that lives on it,” she says. “The most fundamental aspect of a heritage officer, is to identify and investigate the sense of place, the localness and the mosaic of characteristics that make that place like no other.” For Shirley, heritage runs deeper than just a nine-to-five job. “I feel very passionate about heritage; it is like many threads bringing you back to yourself and your place on the planet. The folk art on the 18th-century headstones in this area tells of imaginations, skills and hopes of previous generations. Every place has a meaning and a value, and heritage is one way in which we can rediscover that value.”

Laragh Heritage Group, Co Monaghan It all started with a photograph. Coming up to Christmas 2010, newcomer to Laragh Paula McCaul took photographs of the snow-covered countryside and, in an effort to get to know her neighbours, sent out greeting cards using the photographs. One image immediately piqued interest – that of the overgrown, snow-blanketed St Peter’s Church. After a bit of digging, Paula discovered that this part of Monaghan once housed three huge linen mills and St Peter’s was built in 1891 for the mill workers. Simple in design but with intricate windows and distinctive Swiss-gothic architecture, St Peter’s is now a designated Building of National Importance, but back in 2010 it was all but forgotten. Seven locals turned up at the first group meeting and all were concerned about the fate of the church. “Since then, volunteers have come out of the woodwork and all repairs are done by the community, including resurfacing paths and repairing the church’s stained-glass windows,” says Paula, right, with John Keenan and Patsy Connolly. Community spirit has soared through fundraising events including family fun days and a mini-museum. “We had a harvest celebration last year and we officially opened St Peter’s for that. The church is traditional so there is no electricity but it was decorated with vegetables and the Church of Ireland sang hymns in the candlelight. It was wonderful.” Today St Peter’s Church is restored to its former glory and it is an increasingly popular backdrop for wedding photographs. Now the heritage group has turned its focus to restoring the old mill-workers’ cottages. “When we started, no one knew where we were. Now we’re on the map,” says Paula, with an air of pride. laraghheritage.wordpress.com

PEOPLE

Dartrey Heritage Group, Co Monaghan “Many people told us it was beyond repair,” Noel Carney says of the Lady Anne Dawson Temple, a funerary monument dating from the 1770s and major project of Dartrey Heritage Group. Located on the MonaghanCavan border, the temple was in disrepair for more than 60 years. Designed by renowned British architect James Wyatt, the temple was inspired by Rome’s Pantheon and is one of only two Wyatt buildings influenced by the landmark; the other on London’s Oxford Street where the Marks & Spencer store is today. The temple has a romantic back story. Built by a distraught Thomas Dawson as a tribute to his wife, Lady Anne Dawson, when she died aged 36, the temple contained a resurrection-style scene of marble sculptures carved by Joseph Wilton, including Dawson himself on bended knee. After its first public meeting in autumn of 2004, Dartrey Heritage Group was born, primarily to repair the nearby Dawson column but attention soon turned to the temple. Subsequent fundraising led to a consultation with John Redmill, a Dublin-based conservation architect. “We decided that restoring it to Wyatt’s original design was the best option,” Noel explains, left, with fellow members Shirley Clerkin and David Foster. “Work began rebuilding walls, internal plastering and working on the oculus. Today the temple is 98 per cent completely restored as a building and will be 100 per cent complete by Christmas.” Now an award-winning group, they’ve hosted a Heritage Week event every year for the last five years and this year’s event will be a special one. “We will have a walk and tour of the temple, accompanied by 18thcentury music and a harpist on Sunday, August 23.” With h is knowledge of construction and history, Noel is, unsurprisingly, now advising other projects, and declares: “Architectural heritage is the love of my heart.”

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ARANS with ATTITUDE

BLARNEY ARAN ORIGINALS available in all Blarney Woollen Mills stores and online @ blarney.com

PEOPLE

Boyne Navigation Branch of the Inland Waterways Association of Ireland, Co Meath “Ask locals in Navan about the Boyne Navigation and half don’t even know it’s there,” says Seamus Costello. But quietly toiling away is a group of dedicated volunteers who want to restore and breathe new life into the almost 300-year-old Boyne navigation system. Founded in 1954, the Inland Waterways Association of Ireland promotes and develops Ireland’s navigable rivers and canals and the Boyne Navigation Branch focuses on the 30-kilometre passage linking Drogheda and Navan. In the 1800s this navigation system made it easier to move agricultural goods but, with the transport revolution, canals fell out of favour. “When we started out, we were just tidying the place by cutting trees and picking up litter. We realised we were really only messing about and it was time to get serious about it,” Seamus explains. “The canal used to be a dumping site. We’ve pulled chairs, kitchen tables, toasters – you name it – out of the canal.” Thanks to the opening of the Boyne Trail/Greenway in April 2014, cyclists, runners and dog walkers have discovered the canal but there’s still plenty of work needed. Regular workdays are planned each month and volunteers lend a hand digging, cutting verges, clearing foliage and rebuilding walls. After five heart attacks, Seamus, left, with fellow canal lover Myles Brady, is banned from doing any manual labour but he’s still over there all the time. “My wife says it is the safest place for me to be.” For Heritage Week there will be free boat trips along the canal, fitting in with Seamus’ dream to see them fully restored. “Look at the UK, this time of year their canals are packed. Why don’t we cherish our waterways like that in Ireland?” boyne.iwai.ie

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Irish Steam Preservation Society, Co Laois

Known as the home of steam, Stradbally in Co Laois is the base of the Irish Steam Preservation Society and also the popular National Steam Rally. From humble beginnings on a cold December day, 1965, when five Laois steam enthusiasts – Ron Bramley, Stan Mason, Ben Farrelly, Harold Condell and Colonel Kidd – decided to hold a steam rally in Ireland, the rally now attracts 20,000 attendees and is the longest existing steam rally in Ireland. With 51 years under its belt, the Irish Steam Preservation Society aims to make sure these engineering treasures escape the scrap yard and power their way to glory once more. For society members Nicola Glynn and her husband Nigel, a love of steam engines runs in the family. “My husband’s family has several steam engines, acquired and restored by themselves. Some of these engines have been in the family for decades and some are as big as 30 tonnes. It has in its possession the oldest working Ransomes, Sims & Jefferies in the world, built in 1879.” The society – members Albert, Ivan and Allen Glynn, left – has recently opened a steam museum at The Green in Stradbally. And for members of the society, its majestic machines, which include two preserved diesel locomotives and “Nippy”, a Planet locomotive built in 1936, represent more than nostalgia; at a time when we are easily wowed by technological gimmicks, the sheer power and endurance of steam engines is to be admired. “These cumbersome steam engines represent a bridge into our past,” says Nicola. “It is important that they are maintained for future generations and beyond to show how agricultural work was carried out in the 18th and 19th centuries in Ireland.” irishsteam.ie

PEOPLE

Tor Mór Cultural Tourism Committee, Co Donegal

A “jewel in Donegal’s crown” is how archaeologist Paula Harvey describes Doon Fort, a dry-stone fort tucked away on Loughadoon near the coastal village of Portnoo. One of 30 such forts dotted along the west coast of Ireland, there has been debate over the age and purpose of the forts but recent research suggests they’re from the early medieval period. Harvey first saw Doon Fort when she was a student of archaeology in 1978 and she has visited it at least once a year ever since. “As the only inland island fort in Ireland, Doon Fort is hidden from view from the lake shore but once you are out on the lake, it looms into view. Doon Fort is one of the best examples of a fort in Ireland.” Prior to the mid-1950s, the site was in a bad state of decay. Paula, centre, along with Patrick McLoone, far right, Brenda, second from left, and Malachy Mahon, who passed away in the spring of this year, banded together to campaign for Doon Fort’s preservation and to bring tourism to south-west Donegal. Tor Mór Cultural Committee was formed. “Over the last two years we have been involved in heritage walks, Armada trails, archaeological tours and so on,” Paula continues. “Apart from giving people a rare opportunity to visit Doon Fort, Heritage Week highlights the real need to conserve and preserve the monument. There is an ever-growing cover of ivy on the dry-stone fortifications and parts of the structure have collapsed.” Last year’s National Heritage Week event brought the fort back to life, with 300 visitors boarding a specifically designed boat, eight-at-a-time. To find out what’s up their sleeves this year, you’ll just have to turn up ...

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PEOPLE

Heritage Boat Association, nationwide “People nowadays run or walk past the canals but they are more than just pretty places to exercise near,” says Paul Martin, a lifelong boat enthusiast. “Canals were the motorways of their day. Through our canals, Ireland had its own industrial revolution. But having a great canal makes no sense until you have boats on it. Then you see the beauty of it.” Many boats have been lost, sold for scrap or sold to enthusiasts such as the Heritage Boat Association, who work tirelessly to save and conserve them (among them Ger Bayly, left, Aoife Burke and Ciaran Bayly). “The heritage fleet are not replicas, they’re the authentic boats. We have 80 original Irish boats, some Dutch barges, as well as English timber boats. The oldest is 120 years old.” As Martin says, “every boat has a story,” and one such vessel is the 45M, a Vickers Ltd boat from 1928, which was lost in a storm on Lough Derg in 1946. After a three-month rescue mission in 1975, the boat was re-floated and, amazingly, the engine is still working, making it a prime example of the sheer craftsmanship. Far from being a solitary pursuit, socialising is high on the agenda for the 70 families in the association, which boasts members of all ages. “We’re a bit of a travelling circus. We travel somewhere every weekend. Each year we pick a place for a yearly trip – last year we visited Lough Erne, and this year’s trip will see 30 boats go to Lough Derg. We’ll eventually run out of boats to rescue so now it’s about maintaining them and passing on this knowledge to the next generation. We have seven newly-rescued boats now owned by some of our ‘young skippers’ who are aged from 19 to 25, so there’s a new generation of Heritage Boat people coming up.” heritageboatassociation.ie

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The World’s Best Golfers have played at Adare Golf Club, you should play too…

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Ireland Attracts Global Talent Interest in Ireland as a business hub continues as more Canadian and American firms launch their new Irish entities. bsorb Technology Ltd, a European subsidiary of Blatant Media Corporation, announced the launch of their European operations hub in Dublin city centre recently, while ProSeeder Technologies, Inc., will establish its first European subsidiary office, ProSeeder Technologies Limited, also in Dublin. The companies – introduced to Ireland through ConnectIreland, responsible for delivering the Government’s Succeed in Ireland initiative, in association with IDA Ireland – plan to initially create 27 jobs (twelve in Absorb, 15 in ProSeeder) in the coming three years. This brings to 1,500 the total number of jobs being created through the initiative. Ireland’s availability of talent and the ease of access to the EU and Eurozone were key factors in the companies’ decisions to locate their European operations in Ireland. Absorb Technology initially researched Britain, Spain, and France as possible locations for their European expansion but was introduced to ConnectIreland through an Irish business acquaintance, Gerry McInerney. Gerry, a partner in McInerney Saunders, chartered accountants in Dublin, is an advocate of Ireland as a business location and is proud to promote Ireland whenever he gets the chance. “I am always trying to put the message out there about Ireland as a place to do business. I’m delighted that Absorb Technology has chosen Ireland for their expansion,” added Gerry.

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Absorb Technology develops and delivers Absorb Learning Management System (LMS), a Software as a Service (SaaS) platform that allows organisations to administer training courses to internal and external audiences. The key functions of the Dublin base will be sales and support of the growing European market in addition to extending support access for all Absorb LMS clients globally. Mike Owens, co-founder of Absorb Technology said: “We’re very excited to take the next big step with Absorb. Opening an office in Ireland was an easy decision. We needed a European presence and the business and technology community in Dublin was the perfect fit for us.” Meanwhile, ProSeeder will establish a technology centre for software development activities complemented by a small sales and business development team. ProSeeder is a provider of a customisable financial technology platform for investment firms and

Top, from left, Absorb Technology’s European operations manager Bryan Harrigan with minister for business and employment Ged Nash, connector Gerry McInerney, and ConnectIreland CEO Michael McLoughlin. Above, Nash and McLoughlin meet ProSeeder’s software engineer Lorcan Wogan and director of European operations Colm Browne.

networks to conduct their operations related to direct investment in private securities. The platform enables organisations to effectively manage deal flow processes, vet more opportunities, conduct compliant transactions and reduce the cost of overheads. “When we assessed where to establish our European base of operations, Dublin was a logical choice given the access to talent and Ireland’s pro-business environment. This location will expand our support to our clients and give us greater interaction with them as we continue to grow our business internationally,” explained Colm Browne, director of European operations. Ken Gatz, CEO of Proseeder Technologies, Inc., added: “ProSeeder has become a global bridge between the US and EU seed and venture communities. Our Dublin office will bring further collaboration between investment organisations and growing companies.” If you know of a company considering expansion, put them in touch with ConnectIreland and let us make the pitch for Ireland. Register as a connector and you could earn a reward of up to €1,500 per job created (maximum 100 jobs).

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EXPLORE | THE BURREN

Time & Tide When not wowing royalty and international media, the Burren is one of the best places to indulge in the art of slow travel. Oda Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Carroll goes with the flow. Photographs by Mark Duggan

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Craggy Ireland â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Kilkee Cliffs make for a dramatic hike.

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EXPLORE | THE BURREN

e’ve all done it. Used our week’s holiday to tear around, packing in visits to as many of the must-see sights as possible. But that can be strangely unsatisfying. Now there’s a growing trend towards taking the time to enjoy the local people and landscape of one region, focusing on the journey as part of the experience. In short, slow travel. With that in mind I took the foot off the pedal and wound my way around Co Clare on foot, kayak and bike to explore the vernacular delights of the Burren and Loop Head. John Connolly who runs walking tours of the Burren from his 300-year-old family farm knows all about this. “You’ve got to get out of the car to really understand the Burren. It’s only when you walk it you begin to see all the colour in the cracks and crevices.” We stop on a mountain track in Oughtmama valley and take in the view across the karst landscape down to the bay. And as if to

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Top, drystone walls have become topographical furniture in the Burren. Above, our slow travel tour guide Oda O’Carroll.

illustrate his point perfectly, he identifies blue milkwort, yellow flag iris, rock rose, vetch, geranium, bonsai and several varieties of orchid in a tiny section of land near our feet. The warm and fertile rock of this special geological area supports three-quarters of Ireland’s plant species. Like many others in Co Clare, John has found a living and a way to stay on the land, doing something he loves. Not only does he guide up to 7,000 visitors a year across his land with his company Burren Wild Tours (burrenwalks. com), he also runs the international award-winning Hazel Mountain Chocolate, an artisan bean-to-bar chocolate workshop, right from his granny’s former cottage on the farm. Co Clare is full of resourceful, passionate people who work to live rather than the other way around. Deborah Evers, an exuberant

tour de force, barely pauses for breath, pulling fresh radishes and snipping lambs’ lettuce leaves from the kitchen garden of her home, Clareville House in Ballyvaughan (burrenkitchengarden.com), before showing me an 1850s map of the area. She only recently discovered a kitchen garden existed at that time, long after her own idea to develop the garden as a business, selling jams and relishes. As well as hosting masterclasses in cookery, local craft-making and monthly gourmet dinners, she’s an ambassador for local food producers. Rambling the back roads of Ballyvaughan, Deborah shows me a trove of hidden sites you won’t find in glossy guidebooks – an overgrown ring fort, a Famine path, another cairn or small dolmen camouflaged by the limestone. As I follow in my car on the way to visit award-winning local family business Linnalla Ice Cream

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EXPLORE | THE BURREN

3 Must-dos â&#x20AC;Ś

Paddle your way to secret, otherwise inaccessible places around deserted Mutton Island or Inchiquin Lake, spotting shipwrecks from the Spanish Armada, forts, lagoons and wildlife, with the friendly and knowledgeable guides at North Clare Sea Kayaking (085 119 5489; northclareseakayaking.com)

Cycle the Loop Head coastal route past natural swimming pools, the Pollock Holes, outside Kilkee, a petrified wood, a Napoleonic battery and jaw-dropping cliff scenery.

Soften and rehydrate your skin and ultimately relax with the unctuous natural oils of a seaweed bath. Sinking into huge 19th-century porcelain baths filled with hot local sea water is quite the experience at Kilkee Thalassotherapy Centre (Grattan Street, Kilkee, 065 905 6742; kilkeethalasso.com)

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(linnallaicecream.ie), Deborah stops in the middle of the road, hazards on and hops out to tell me something else about the Flaggy Shore, Lady Gregory’s summer house and the oyster beds in the bay. Her enthusiasm for the region is infectious. And there is something emotionally stirring about a place that can “catch the heart off guard and blow it open” as described by Seamus Heaney, who had a deep affection for the Burren’s landscape and people. And Prince Charles finally realised his wish to visit the Burren in spring of this year. The late Michael Greene, a local man, also understood the Burren’s magnetism and wanted to create a place of learning and reflection in the tradition of the Brehon schools of the sixth century. In 1993 he and wife Mary set up the not-for-profit Burren College of Art (burrencollege. ie), on an ancient site just outside Ballyvaughan. “People discover they see things differently by being in this place,” Mary SLÁINTE! says. “It’s about time, The fourth annual space and inspiration, Doolin Craft Beer allowing people to Festival returns this August get to the heart of 21-23, the Hotel Doolin who they really are as festooned with fine Irish craft creative individuals.” brews, live music, and food Open to everyone, the from local producers. college runs courses from burren.ie internationally-accredited Masters to summer painting classes and executive leadership retreats. “Sometimes we see business leaders here on creative courses who are conditioned in their way of thinking. They find spending time here gives them Opposite, a reboot. By slowing down you flora flourishes become more productive.” through the Heading inland towards remote grikes. Clockwise Carron, I’m struck again by the from top, the cake primal landscape, a blanket of grey at Hazel Mountain Chocolate Café limestone hills only interrupted by is almost too good weather-beaten bushes, stone walls to eat; Clareville and a few solitary houses. It comes House’s Deborah as a surprise, then, to turn down a Evers; Pure Camping’s Trea lane and arrive at the chic hidden and Kevin, and oasis that is the Burren Perfumery. Burren College A charming 19th-century of Art’s president farmhouse, that wouldn’t look out Mary Hawkesof place in Provence, now houses Greene. AUGUST 2015

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Refuel at … FARM CHIC Tickets get snapped up fast for Kasha and John Connolly’s monthly dinners (on the last Saturday of every month) cooked by visiting chefs at the Hazel Mountain Chocolate Café in the heart of the Burren. Feast on slow roasted, nut-fed pork shoulder or enjoy a craft beer and chocolate pairing course from the garden. (Oughtmama, Bell Harbour, 087 877 9565; hazelmountainchocolate. com) SURF CATERING Join the queue at Joan and Frank Kelly’s Winkle Stall in Kilkee, going since 1900 and legendary for its sea-fresh periwinkles and dillisk. Steam the superfood snails with garlic and serve with a dillisk salad for a low-fat supper bursting with omega 3s, minerals and vitamins. (Strand Line, Kilkee) HEAVEN SCENT It’s a simple menu but that’s as it should be in a place like the Burren Perfumery Tea Rooms. All the ingredients that go into dishes like Frank Hederman’s warm smoked Irish mackerel with new baby potatoes, St Tola’s goat cheese grilled with thyme and Burren honey and the selection of delightful cakes and scones, are locally sourced and organic. (Carron, 065 708 9102; burrenperfumery.com)

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Above and below, dolphin spotting. Right, a freshlyplucked salad from the gardens of Clareville House.

the perfumery shop surrounded by cut-stone outbuildings converted into a mixing room and an organic café. “I only make scents that I like,” says the perfumery’s softspoken owner Sadie Chowen, who grew up in the south of France. She invites me to try out best-sellers Ilaun and Frond, describing the botanical scents they conjure up. “Like music, it’s about trying to share the experience of a place. Imagine walking the Burren on a rainy September evening. You’ll smell the heather, wild rock rose ...” And you know, now I can. Outside, in her walled medicinal herb garden, we stroll past abundant mounds of lovage, echinacea, comfrey, St John’s wort (she makes a cream for skin conditions from borage that doctors have been snapping

up), though her ingredients are sourced from certified organic growers around the world. “I didn’t see why an Irish perfume couldn’t stand side by side with any other international brand.” And neither do others, clearly. The perfumery has been feted in the Wall Street Journal, named Best Day Out in The Irish Times last year, and orders are on the rise. “Prepare to be blown away” is the tagline Cillian Murphy, chair of Loop Head Tourism, came up with and, cycling along the isolated peninsula’s spectacular cliffside coast road out of Kilkee, it feels fittingly apt. An hour’s drive south of the Burren, the grassy windswept He peak fields of Loop Head at a series of plunging cliffs th fall away that dr dramatically to the Atlantic. The views from th edge – if the yo dare – are you aw awe-inspiring and wi only a few with

EXPLORE | THE BURREN

Recharge at … DOWN TO EARTH Even the donkeys, cats and dogs look happy at Trea and Kevin’s ecocampsite Pure Camping on a seaside farm. Enjoy native woodland walks, yoga in the geodesic dome, the outdoor sauna and lying in the grass gazing at stars before rolling into the comfort of your cosy yurt, warmed by a pot-bellied stove. (Querrin, Kilkee, 065 905 7953; purecamping.ie) HOMESPUN There’s an intimate, homely feel to the Wild Honey Inn, just outside Lisdoonvarna, with its log fires, comfy sofas and bedrooms opening onto the garden. Run by the McGrath family, its bistro is the only pub in Ireland to win a Bib Gourmand from the Michelin gang, so it’s got the full package for a great overnighter. (Kincora Road, Lisdoonvarna, 065 707 4300; wildhoneyinn.com) NAUTICAL The setting doesn’t get more spectacular than this, the historic Loop Head Lightkeeper’s House on the very tip of Loop Head, surrounded by dramatic cliffs, sea birds and crashing Atlantic surf. A bracing coastal walk will set you up for a sleep of the gods in your brass bed. Self catering, it sleeps five. (Kilbaha, 01 670 4733; irishlandmark.com)

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In rare form – folded rocks and sea caves at Kilclogher. Above right, Dolphinwatch’s Geoff Magee and his pooch Minnie.

cars passing on the small road, you feel like you have the place to yourself, adding to the sense of discovery and escape. I can’t believe I’ve never visited this place and wonder why it’s not up there on a list of World Heritage Sites. Straddled between the Atlantic and the Shannon Estuary, Loop Head feels cut off from the rest of the country and, in fact, only a kilometre or so at its narrowest point stops it from being designated an island. And since winning awards for sustainable tourism and The Irish Times Best Place in Ireland to Holiday, Loop Head is gradually appearing on people’s radars. Pedalling around to the remote, 19th-century Loop Head Lighthouse, I stop en route for a restorative cup of coffee and lemon drizzle cake at Kilbaha Gallery and Crafts, where a wonderful example of sustainable tourism is at work. Dynamos Ailish Connolly and Liz Greehy met on a business start-up course and joined forces to set up an arts and heritage centre dedicated to local man Henry Blake, a blind craftsman and storyteller. “We needed to find something to hand onto our children,” says Ailish of Kilbaha Gallery and Crafts. “We started building without funding and then had to convince the bank to lend to us.” She’s visibly AUGUST 2015

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delighted talking about the gallery and for good reason. It’s packed full of surprisingly contemporary crafts – seaweed products, organic candles, driftwood art and modern painting, bags made from oil cloths, beautiful ceramics – remarkably all made by artisans from the Loop Head peninsula. For such a sparsely populated area, the region has attracted an extraordinarily high population of other residents: about 200 WILD THINGS bottle-nose dolphins Aspiring Bear Grylls’ live in the estuary, the will love the survival largest community activities taught at the in Europe. Geoff Family Bush Craft event at Magee was a some marine At first glance, Aillwee Cave, Ballyvaughan, fisherman for The Burren’s biologists, all this August 29. more than 20 landscape can eyes trained aillweecave.ie look sparse, but years before he and on the water. in spring and his wife Susanne Geoff switches off summertime it set up Dolphinwatch buzzes with flora the engine, people (dolphinwatch.ie), the guided and fauna, edge to the front of the boat tour company I’m to join top left. boat, someone has spotted a fin. for an outing from Carrigaholt. Suddenly six dolphins, including Driving down the village’s sleepy a calf, begin arcing out of the main street towards the sea looking glistening water, in tandem. Port out for the boat – in what could side, another family of dolphins have been a scene from a John breach and blow in perfect Hinde postcard – a ginger-haired synchronicity. People gasp audibly. man outside the post office is in the I’d seen the pictures but to middle of the street playing hurling experience these gentle mammals with some children. Rolling down interacting with us up close is the window to ask directions, he strangely moving and exhilarating. leans in for a chat and walks with We push on towards Loop Head, me as I inch forward, to where he points out the boat. “Great day to join a guided SAY CHEESE On August 15, see the dolphins,” he says. It’s one of tre that includes walk from Clare Heritage Cen those little exchanges you only get luding sustenance. when you’re not in a hurry. a goat farm visit. €30pp inc rren.com We’re 45 minutes on board Email info@mullaghmore-bu with a few visitors, a geologist and 64 |

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ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA MACAREE

EXPLORE | THE BURREN

where nesting birds – cormorants, gannets, kittiwakes and guillemots – in their thousands swoop and dive in the water, indicating more dolphins may be about. And sure enough, four dorsal fins in a line approach the boat head on, jumping in a perfect Mexican wave. I’m torn between watching the water and taking in the view of the sheer cliff face of Loop Head and the 100-metre-high sea stack standing next to it. People, like little Lego characters, wave from the headland. Geoff talks about the coastline’s wondrous natural architecture, the blowholes and “box folding” that created arches in the cliffs, as we enter the turquoise water of a hidden cave. Prepare to be blown away indeed. CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

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ROAD TRIP | BASQUE COUNTRY

BASQUE IN THE LIGHT From the urban buzz of Bilbao to the slow pace of the wine country, northern Spain has serious culinary cred. Nathalie Marquez Courtney explores, and photographs, the region.

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Well cultured â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Basque region has it all, from contemporary art at the Guggenheim Bilbao, opposite, to the wineries of Rioja, including the ViĂąa Real bodega, this page.

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ROAD TRIP | BASQUE COUNTRY

f it’s morning, then it’s white wine.” Not words I’m used to hearing on classy food trips – but then this is no regular gastronomic adventure. We’re in the Basque country, and though my boarding pass said Spain, we’re not in the land of sangría, paella and tapas anymore, Toto. Here, they make their own food rules. With a rich, storied and at times troubled history, over the last decade the Basque country has become Europe’s gastronomic sweetheart, thanks mainly to the lure of San Sebastián and its 16 Michelin stars. We’re here to discover that there’s a whole lot more to the region. And yes, some of it does involve wine at 11am. You enter the Basque country via Bilbao. Home to the Guggenheim Museum (guggenheim-bilbao. es), Frank Gehry’s titanium and limestone masterpiece, it’s living proof that “if you build it, they will come”. This is exactly why we’re told to avoid it first thing in the morning, when the cruise liners arrive and thousands of daytrippers descend, filling every undulating crevice with yells that echo and selfie sticks that poke. A 2pm arrival made for a quieter, less harried experience, and allowed us to bask, heads back and mouths gaping, in the beauty of this incredible building. Once you’ve taken in the permanent exhibitions on the ground floor – including Richard Serra’s humbling The Matter of Time, made up of twelve colossal steel sculptures – make your way to the first floor to scope out seasonal offerings and round the trip out with an obligatory pic with Puppy, Jeff Koons’ giant, flower-adorned West Highland terrier, standing guard outside the museum. Of course, it wouldn’t be a trip to the Basque country without at least one Michelin-starred experience and we get ours at Etxanobe (etxanobe.com), where

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Above, Frank Gehry’s titanium and limestone masterpiece, the Guggenheim Bilbao, and our Basque explorer, Nathalie Marquez Courtney.

chef Fernando Canales puts on quite a gourmet show. We started with bubbles on the balcony at dusk, taking in views of the Nervión river, the verdant hills of Artxanda and the glowing trickle of Bilbao traffic. The tasting menu is the perfect introduction to the Basque approach to cooking: local, seasonal ingredients are used in surprising, creative ways that don’t take themselves too seriously. The waiters really enjoy telling us that a dish is one thing and giggle when we bite in and discover that it’s

something else completely – a thin, plasticky-looking sheet contains all the flavour of mashed potato. White chocolate mousse is “fried” in liquid nitrogen, right at the table. A lipstick made of sardines is also served (seriously). And a tiny little chest of drawers reveals bright, perfectly formed buttons that are, of course, chocolate. We’re off to a good start. Over dinner, we learn that instead of “cheers” or the Irish sláinte, Basques say “on egin”, a lovely phrase that our

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ROAD TRIP | BASQUE COUNTRY

VIVA CINEMA!

knowledgeable guide David Elexgaray (basque-ways.com) translates as “let the food do you well”. And it does, for the next three days. The following morning, we hit the road early. Although we are driving our way around the region, you could just as easily base yourself in Bilbao. The beauty of the Basque country is that, much like classic road-trip destination California, an hour’s drive in any direction will yield a totally different, but equally gorgeous landscape. There are also frequent bus services to almost every destination, so the daytrip options are endless. Day two’s final stop is San Sebastián, though we are visiting a winery and taking in a bustling fishing village along the way. This is how we find ourselves sipping Txakoli, the fresh, bubbly local wine, at 11am in the cellar of Talai Berri (talaiberri.com) with the warm and cheerful Bixente Eizaguirre, a fourth-generation

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Txakoli wine maker. He talks us through the process of harvesting this young, dry wine, a staple in bars and restaurants across the sansebastianfestival.com region. It’s fantastic for clearing the palate, making it the perfect pintxo chaser. Afterwards, a 15-minute drive takes you out of the green hills of wine country and to the fishing village of Getaria. Locals crowd in during the summer for the freshest seafood grilled on outdoor fires. Here, over a lunch of fish, salad, more Txakoli and crusty bread, we learn why morning drinking isn’t quite as unwholesome as it sounds. This is an area filled with industrious early risers – if you’re not a fisherman up at the crack of dawn, you might be working on the vineyard, or preparing anchovies one by one. So it’s no surprise that a little glass of sparkling Txakoli is in order by mid-morning –

ks off from of the year Aste Nagusia kic FIESTA TIME Bilbao’s party ate Basque n 100,000 festivalgoers celebr August 16-24, when more tha strongmen ts, flotillas, regattas, parades, cer con ir n-a ope e Cu e. itag her rk displays. astenagusia.com contests and nightly firewo 70 |

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Eat at … CIDER HOUSE A feast of mini meals on the San Sebastián pintxo trail is all well and good, but when you’re ready for a real feed, make your way to a sidería, a traditional Basque cider house. There’s buzz and ribald banter, giant cavernous rooms where the glasses are filled straight from the barrel, and epic T-bone steaks. Try family-owned Petritegi, and don’t leave without tasting their apple cider sorbet. Four courses, including unlimited cider, from €28.50. (20115 Astigarraga, +34 943 457 188; petritegi.com) PICTURE PERFECT Come for the winery tours of the Rioja region, and stay for the exceptional lunch at Viura, Villabuena, a quirky yet luxurious boutique hotel. The stark, modern design juts out of the rustic landscape, much like the Frank Gehry-designed Marqués de Riscal winery up the road. Lunch here is inventive, delicious and beautifully presented. Your Instagram account will thank you. Sevencourse Sensations Menu from €60. (Calle Mayor, Villabuena de Álava, +34 945 609 000; hotelviura.com) STARRY HEIGHTS There are quite a few Michelin-starred restaurants to choose from in San Sebastián, but Akelarre is one of the most consistently buzzed about. Opened in 1975 by Pedro Subijana and nestled high up on Monte Igueldo, those in the know make a lunch reservation to savour better the breathtaking views over the Bay of Biscay. There are three tasting menus to choose from – if you don’t mind sharing, mix and match to get the most out of the incredible experience. Prices start from €170. (56 Paseo del Padre Orkolaga, +34 943 311 209; akelarre.net)

Opposite, artfully presented dishes at the innovatively-designed Hotel Viura. Anticlockwise from far left, Ismael Maimoun at Hotel Viura; one of many, many casks in San Sebastian; Marta Echavarri at Rioja’s Viña Real bodega; cod and pepper pintxos at Gandarias, San Sebastián; Bixente Eizaguirre, a fourth generation Txakoli wine maker at Talai Berri winery, and an inventive salad created at a workshop at PerretxiCo pinxto bar in Vitoria-Gasteiz.

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ROAD TRIP | BASQUE COUNTRY

Sleep at … CITY HIP A minimalist and modern offering from Spanish fashion designer Antonio Miró, the on-trend interior of Bilbao’s Miró Hotel gives way to a cosy, friendly vibe. There are great views across to the Guggenheim and it’s just a short walk to the Old Town. Rooms from €137. (77 Alameda Mazarredo, +34 946 611 880; mirohotelbilbao.com) COUNTRY RUSTIC Charm abounds at Los Parajes, a boutique hotel in the pretty walled town of Laguardia. Each of the 18 rooms feature unique design touches, but the highlight

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is undoubtedly the dark and inviting wine bar, set in a cave that dates back to the 16th century. Rooms from €110. (46-48 Calle Mayor, +34 945 621 130; hospederiadelosparajes.com) COASTAL COOL It’s certainly not the only five-star hotel in town, but San Sebastián’s Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra definitely has the best view. Rooms are elegantly furnished, but you’ll be racing to the balcony to soak in vistas over the promenade of La Concha beach. Rooms from €258. (2 Zubieta, +34 943 440 770; hlondres.com)

Everything under the sun – San Sebastián, aka Donostia has it all, from Michelin stars to the picturesque Concha Bay, above.

lunchtime – when half a day’s work is already done. “Never alone before noon though,” says David, raising his glass. Before we leave, we pop into Maisor (maisor.com), a small food shop that’s also one of the best anchovy purveyors in the region. We watch the preparation process – the techniques are simple and traditional, but laborious. The resulting specimens turn me into a believer. Turns out, I have always liked anchovies, I’ve just never tasted the right ones. These are meaty, firm, juicy and delicious, with none of the greasy, over-salted

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ROAD TRIP | BASQUE COUNTRY

Don’t miss ...

Move over Maldon, there’s a new hipster salt in town. The Salt Valley of Añana has been producing salt for more than 6,000 years, but in more recent times Michelin-starred chefs have been queuing up to get their hands on this “white gold” – extremely pure salt flakes served at the fanciest tables in town and for sale in the gift shop. It’s under an hour’s drive from Bilbao, and fun, informative tours start from €7. (32 Calle Real, +34 945 351 111; vallesalado.com)

After shattering attendance records at the Pompidou in Paris, a retrospective of the kitsch work of American artist Jeff Koons is the summer highlight at the Guggenheim Bilbao. “I’ve never seen my work look more elegant than here,” enthused Koons at the opening. Admission is €13 and includes both the temporary and permanent exhibitions. (2 Avenida Abandoibarra, +34 944 359 000; guggenheim-bilbao.es)

The Guggenheim isn’t the only building worth a visit in Bilbao. La Ribera Food Market, once the biggest in Spain, is a great place to stock up on some Basque delicacies. The 20th-century Expressionist architecture has been updated with sleek glass and a modern interior but the magnificent, original stained-glass windows can still be admired. (22 Ribera; bilbaoturismo.net)

Gain a new-found appreciation for the delicate intricacy of pintxos by trying to make them yourself. Chef Josean Merino at hip pintxo bar PerretxiCo in Vitoria-Gasteiz demos the process, shares some tips for pintxo-making at home and, best of all, you get to eat your creations. Pintxo workshops from €120, including a tasting menu and matching wines. (3 San Antonio, +34 945 137 221; perretxico.es)

The Cathedral of Santa María de Vitoria is far from just an ABC (Another Boring Church). It served as a fortress to defend the city and has been undergoing intense restoration work, which has been turned into an attraction in itself. Pull on your hard hat and clamber over scaffolding, explore medieval passages and admire some stunning Gothic architecture. Admission is €8.50 for adults, €1 for children. (95 Calle Cuchillería, Vitoria-Gasteiz, +34 945 122 160; catedralvitoria com)

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ROAD TRIP | BASQUE COUNTRY

flavours of inferior versions. No wonder every pintxo joint has them at the bar. After stocking up on some jars of anchovies and other local treats (tip: look out for the red and green K of Eusko Label, which tells you you’re buying a genuine artisanal food product), it’s on to the crown jewel of the region: San Sebastián, or Donostia to give it its Basque name. This small, stylish resort city has become the foodie capital of Europe: it boasts more Michelin stars per capita than any other European city. But you can eat just as well in a local bar as in any of the star-spangled establishments. Our trip to San Sebastián is deliberately brief – the whole point of this excursion is to discover how much more there is to the region – but 76 |

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we can’t resist sneaking off for a cheeky pintxo or two, so we make for Calle 31 de Agosto in the Old Town. Every bar on this small cobbled street features counters laden with delicious pintxos. You can either ask for a plate and stock up, or simply point to the ones you like the look of – the banter-loving barmen will explain which pintxos can be eaten cold and which they will whisk away to heat up. I still find myself craving them, recalling the perfect mix of textures and flavours in a simple but mouthwatering combo of goat’s cheese, balsamic and walnuts at Gandarias (restaurantegandarias.com) and the legendary baked cheesecake at La Viña (lavinarestaurante.com). While speed-eating our way down the ancient street, we

The fishing village of Bermeo, about half an hour from Bilbao.

see Txakoli in action, poured dramatically from great heights into small, short glasses. Our morning winery trip taught us that, technically speaking, this technique does little for the effervescent wine, but it sure is fun to watch. After spending a day visiting the Basque capital, Vitoria-Gasteiz (see previous page for highlights), our last day is dedicated to all things wine, namely Rioja. We travel inland; lush green hills that wouldn’t look out of place in Ireland give way to a flatter, drier, rockier landscape and higher temperatures, which help create the perfect climate for the full-bodied Rioja of the region. Our first stop is Viña Real (cvne.com) – if James Bond owned a winery, this is what it would look like. Founded

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ROAD TRIP | BASQUE COUNTRY

ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN

in 1879, it has undergone a €40 million redevelopment led by Bordeaux architect Philippe Mazières and opened in 2004. Set atop the Cerro de la Mesa hill, its impressive cellars have been literally tunnelled into the rock; one tunnel alone can store an astounding 25,000 barrels. It’s a great introduction to the region’s wine, and a fascinating look at the large-scale winemaking process. We’ll be resting our heads – and drinking our fill – in the nearby medieval town of Laguardia. Our last night in the Basque country kicks off with a trip to ancient bodega El Fabulista (bodegaelfabulista.com). There are hundreds of underground cellars all over the town, originally built as tunnels to allow for a speedy escape during battle. Then, enterprising residents noticed that they created the perfect conditions for storing wine. “Our town is like a block of Emmental cheese,” says El Fabulista’s Mar Oviedo cheerfully. For this reason, there are no cars allowed beyond its thick stone walls. El Fabulista is one of only two underground wine cellars in Laguardia open to the public, and its cellar is seven metres below ground. After the vast, high-tech gloss of Viña Real, there is something romantic and atmospheric about this tiny winery. What it lacks in size, Mar more than makes up for in stories as we walk through the dark, damp, caves. The grapes are still crushed manually – underfoot during the October harvest. At the end of the tour, we taste our last glass of Basque wine: a hearty young red, it’s a bit too robust for me. “Of course, the best wine,” she says, smiling enigmatically, “is the one you like.” And that’s the beauty of the Basque country: there’s always something new to like, something new to try ... Next time. On egin. The open air Peine del Viento (Wind Comb) sculptures by Eduardo Chillida in San Sebastián.

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EXPLORE | LAS VEGAS

Global village – the Bellagio’s fountains at rest, as seen from the Lago Restaurant.

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Vegas,Baby

There are umpteen fun ways to spend time and money in Sin City. Frances Power plays her hand at the blackjack table before sampling the shows, the steaks, the shopping and the sights. Photographs by David Giral.

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EXPLORE | LAS VEGAS

t’s my last night in Vegas and $100 are burning a hole in my pocket. I circle the blackjack tables. A friend of a friend won €80,000 at Vegas a week before, and just last night my mate left the table $120 up. But I’ve never played, so I need an empty table and a friendly dealer. I spot a kind face and some vacant stools and scoot in. The dealer deals me two cards, a total of 13. I raise an eyebrow, “Stand?” He nods. I learn a few things. You wave your hand, palm down, over your cards to signal no more cards or “stand”. Tap it for another card or “hit”. Still I’m losing steadily. I’ve played five hands or so when a waitress wafts up to my elbow. “Bring her a tequila,” the dealer says to her, deadpan. Okay, Casino Royale, it ain’t, but playing at Vegas is a lot of fun – while it lasts. Half an hour later, and I’m turning my purse inside out. Luckily for me, there are umpteen other fun ways to spend your time (and money) in Vegas besides the tables. Catching a show, for starters. Just about every superstar passes through Sin City at some point. Elton John and Rod Stewart are scheduled to play later in 2015 and there are currently eight Cirque du Soleil productions to electrify you. I’m in town in May, a few weeks after Mariah Carey opens at The Colosseum at Caesars Palace. She had arrived in a 1936 pink convertible and was carried through the casino on a platform by men dressed as gladiators. Now that’s Vegas. We catch Michael Jackson ONE by Cirque du Soleil at the Mandalay Bay, an eye-popping 90 minutes of music, light shows, dance and acrobatics. The hits are all there – “Beat it”, “Billie Jean” and “Thriller” – and, of course, the famous moonwalk, intercut with footage and stills of the man ANTHONY WOODS

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Just one Cornetto? The Adriatic comes to the desert at the Venetian Hotel and Casino. Left, our Sin City explorer, Fran Power.

hi himself from child star upwards an there’s even a storyline and of sorts. It’s a wraparound pe performance, literally, with th three speakers in the headrest of every seat, and action ha happening not just in front of yo you but over your head and do down the aisles. It’s a spectacle, full of razzle-dazzle. Another night we head to Harrah’s The Million Dollar Quartet, the story of a famous night in 1956

when Elvis, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins and Johnny Cash all hook up for an impromptu jam at the recording studios of Sam Phillips, the father of rock‘n’roll. It has none of the pyrotechnics of Cirque du Soleil but plenty of heart, a sharp script and roof-raising classics such as “I Walk the Line”, “Hound Dog”, and “Great Balls of Fire”. Before I know it, the audience – OAPs, twentysomethings, and myself – are up, clapping and dancing.

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Today FIRE boasts a modern luxurious interior to complement its existing original design.

AWARD WINNING ARCHITECTURE

RIAI 2015, Best Commercial / Retail Project Fire Restaurant and Lounge at the Mansion House has just received the top award from the Royal Institute of Architects of Ireland for the best commercial project in Ireland. Located in the historic surroundings of the restored Lord Mayor's Garden, the elegant new building was designed by leading Irish architect Seán Harrington Architects. The contemporary glass frontage and terrace open up views to and from the beautiful formal garden, enhances the restored historic original restaurant building behind and sits comfortably next to its prestigious neighbours; The Mansion House (home of Dublin's Lord Mayor), the magnificent Round Room (the seat of the first Dáil, or Irish parliament, in 1919) and the Royal Irish Academy. This unique combination of sensitive modern design, good conservation and appropriate historic restoration showcases the best of Irish design, past and present, and creates an incredible setting for a top class restaurant experience.

“EXCELLENT DINING EXPERIENCE” – CALIFORNIA TRIPADVISOR CONTRIBUTOR, JULY 8TH 2015 AWARD WINNING CULINARY

Best Restaurant in Leinster, The Good Eating Guide 2015 Sourced exclusively for FIRE, the Large Wood-Burning Stone Oven has pride of place in the restaurant & has inspired our chefs to create distinctive signature dishes such as our Wood-Fired Jumbo Tiger Prawns. Other signature dishes include the world-renowned Hereford Prime Irish Beef Steaks and the famous Sunday Roast (recently named “Best Roast in Dublin” by Dublin’s favourite ‘Lovin Dublin’ Website).

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

MAKE A RESERVATION: T: 00353 (0)1 6767 200 E: FIRE@MANSIONHOUSE.IE www.MANSIONHOUSE.ie

We take great pride in carefully selecting the finest produce Ireland has to offer through long-term relationships with word-class farmers. Our concept is very simple; take Ireland’s finest raw ingredients and use original recipes to create exceptional dishes without getting too complicated. Praised for Irish hospitality at its finest, you will immediately feel welcomed by our team of professionals who are passionate about what they do.

FIRE is located on Dawson Street at Dublin’s iconic Mansion House, just seconds from St. Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street & Trinity College.

EXPLORE | LAS VEGAS

Gorgeous gorge â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Grand Canyonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Colorado River, as seen from the Hulapai Indian Reservation, while on a Grand Canyon Tour with Sundance Helicopters. Trips from $224. The company also offers Champagne picnics at sunrise. sundancehelicopters.com

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The Biggest Sideshow … At the crack of dawn one morning I am on a 40-minute bus journey to Papillon Helicopters (papillon.com) near Boulder City, 23 miles southeast of Vegas. Their pilot Landon Lewis (his parents were Bonanza-philes), flies our ’copter load past the Hoover Dam, over extinct volcanoes and mountain ridges that look like crumpled up brown paper. “Look closely and you might see wild horses, coyotes and road runners,” says Landon. We flit over to see the Dam and Lake Mead, the sprawling reservoir made by the dam that feeds Las Vegas. Landon points out the “bathtub ring” on the side of the lake that shows how the water level has dropped in recent drought years. On we fly, up and over a mountain ridge to swoop down the mighty Colorado river. The steep buttes of the Grand Canyon rise either side of us in sand, red, orange and mauve, as we follow the curves of the river through the gorge. It is jaw-dropping. Huge and beautiful and, yes, awesome and we whoop with glee. Landon points out the west side of the canyon, homeland of the Hualapai Indians, who allow Papillon helicopters to land for breakfast. It’s surreal to be swigging Champagne at 8am against the backdrop of one of the world’s most famous landscapes. And it will set you back roughly $464, but it’s worth every penny.

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Eat at … SUBLIME For a blow-out meal, to the tune of a symphony of fountains, dress in your best for dinner at Lago at Bellagio. Chef Julian Serrano (whose Picasso at Bellagio was awarded two Michelin sparklies) serves up small plates of fantastic Italian food, langoustine in the shell, octopus in squid ink cous cous, gnocchi with lobster knuckles. Lap it all up, but however big your eyes, leave room for the dessert plate. (3600 Las Vegas Boulevard South, +1 702 693 7111; bellagio.com) ROCKIN’ Stop off for lunch at Guy Fieri’s Kitchen and Bar where vast plates of American staples such as multi-storied burgers, tacos and chicken wings will fuel your spending spree. Don’t miss the deconstructed pizza (pepperoni-coated sticks served with smoky cheese dip and sweatinducing peppers) or gargantuan Caesar salad, craft beers also figure. Not a place to linger for a chat though – the music is high decibel. (3535 South Las Vegas Boulevard, Paradise, +1 702-731-3311; caesars.com) GOURMET Fleur by Hubert Keller at the Mandalay Bay hotel is a soothing break – all dusky browns and lit as if an eternal night – from the casino hub-bub. As you’d expect from Keller, who hails from Alsace, the menu is French at heart but with an overlay of global flavours, so halibut comes with housemade kimchi, and wagyu beef with citrus truffle vinaigrette. (The Shoppes at Mandalay Place, 3950 South Las Vegas Boulevard, +1 702 632 9400; hubertkeller.com)

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Of course, some of the be best shows happen for (almost) free on the Strip. You can pay a few dollars for a selfie sandwiched between two well-upholstered showgirls or female cops. Take a trip on a gondola at the Venetian, or visit Dale Chihuly’s trippy glass chandelier in the lobby at the Bellagio. Along the four-mile-long Strip, themed mega-resorts and casinos, the pyramid-shaped aped Luxor, the Mirage, Mandalay Bay and Wynn soar upwards. ke Each one is like th a mini-city with its own casino, ops, restaurants, shops, spas, nightclub, pools and even, at Wynn, a golf course and fleet of s-Royces. Phantom Rolls-Royces. Head a few miles north and Downtown, the you come to Downtown original Vegas. In the rush to the wn was for many years Strip, downtown ayed Leaving Las neglected. It played Vegas, say, to thee Strip’s Hangover. lk now and you’ll see But take a walk

Left, aesthetically pleasing dishes at the Bellagio’s Lago restaurant and below, the mother of all Bloody Marys at Guy Fieri’s Kitchen and Bar. Bottom, a hall of infamy at the MOB Museum.

a renaissance happening. The newish Mob Museum (themobmuseum.org) is located, appropriately enough, in the former federal courthouse and post office. It tells the story of organised crime in the US, specifically in Sin City, and since it counts an ex-FBI special agent among those on its board, its sources must be impeccable. The sustainably built The Smith Center for the Performing Arts (thesmithcenter.com) brings in touring Br Broadway shows, alongside ballet and music, while the Life is Beau Beautiful festival (Sep (September 25-27; lifeis lifeisbeautiful.com) this year features musicians as dive diverse as Duran Duran, Stevie Wonder and our own Hozier, as well as fo foodie pop-ups and great street art (check out the comic stri strip romance that continues over buildings that are blocks apart). Downtown is also where you will find the Neon Museum (neonmuseum.o neonmuseum.org). Once the scrapyard for one of the world’s largest electric sign makers, YESCO, it’s now an homa homage to vintage signs – and the city’s beginnings.

EXPLORE | LAS VEGAS

The Zio Ziegler mural and street art on Downtown’s 7th Street and Stewart Avenue. Top right, performers Cela don Wood and Fran Grigorio in front of the Bellagio. Middle, a flame-throwing Praying Mantis marks the entrance of Downtown’s Container Park. Right, it ain’t Vegas until you’ve spotted at least two Elvis impersonators.

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Stay at …

“Take down all the neon in Vegas,” says our guide, “and it would make a line eight miles long.” There’s an early one in curly script for El Cortez, the city’s oldest casino, built in 1941 on Fremont Street downtown. Ben Siegel aka Bugsy, the handsome mobster, bought El Cortez in 1945. He had been drawn to Las Vegas by the friendly gambling laws and off-track betting, and he’s still used in El Cortez’s advertising. “It’s the only business in the world where the corporate spokesperson is a hitman,” says our guide. Only in Vegas, as they say. City officials began to get a little too interested in developments downtown so Bugsy bought into the Flamingo Hotel and Casino (caesars.com), one of the first hotel casinos to be built on what became the Strip. He supposedly named the hotel after his girlfriend’s long skinny legs and it cost an outrageous and acrimonious $6 million. Bugsy came to a sticky end – either shot by his girlfriend’s husband or a disgruntled mobster investor in 1947. But the Strip thrived. Our guide points out the Moulin Rouge sign that adorned the first non-segregated casino in town back in the 1950s. Until then, even

Sammy Davis Jnr had to come and go to theatres by the back door and stay over in se a rooming house de on the west side of town. And there’s an old motel sign that promises “Free nder Aspirin and Tender uld definitely have ha Sympathies”. I would booked in there. There’s bags of good shopping here too in a development called Container Park (707 Fremont Street, +1 702 359 9982; downtowncontainerpark.com), fashioned from, yes, shipping containers stacked on top of each other to form a low-rise collection of indie boutiques, where a treasure island of a toyshop, Kappa Toys, kids’ playground, performance space and food trucks, craft beers and cafés make this a good watering hole. If you’re on a spree, the Strip has plenty of tempting malls to part you from your money. At the Fashion Show Mall (3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South, +1 702 369 8382; thefashionshow.com), Saks Fifth

Clockwise from top left, the Neon Musuem and its graveyard of crafted signage; dealing hands at the Mandalay Bay Casino; the restored La Concha hotel, is now a visitor’s centre to the Neon Museum.

CLASSY The bedrooms in the Delano Las Vegas whisper rather than shriek “money”. Every one is a suite, dressed in neutrals, ne with large spabath a flatscreen TV screen baths, (one in the bathroom too), a seco second loo and floor-to-ceiling windows with city views. Th shimmering, bronze The lobb is monumental, with a lobby co cocktail bar, VIP check-out, ca Della’s Kitchen – the café, belt-busting breakfast is no to be missed – while an not Alain Ducasse “imagined” re restaurant Rivea opens in autumn. Guests have access to the Delano Beach Club, a quieter, more date pool than tha the Mandalay Beach. sedate Rooms from $119pp. (3940 Las Vegas Boulevard South Las Vegas, +1 702 632 9444; delanolasvegas.com) PARTY Attached to its brother hotel Encore by a joint casino, Wynn is party central – it’s where Prince Harry spent a raucous few days, and its nightclub Tryst boasts a lagoon. Named after its owner, art collector and billionaire Steve Wynn, the 2,716-room resort is built on the site of the old Sinatra hang-out, the Desert Inn. It forms a great bronze curve and cost $2.7 billion to build. Rooms are large and luxe but, unless you book a Tower Suite, won’t break the bank. Linger at the coffee shop for some A-lister spotting. Rooms from $189. (3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South +1 702 770 7000; wynnlasvegas.com)

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Avenue, Macy’s (show your passport for a ten per cent discount) and Neiman Marcus all have outlets, alongside Camper, Abercrombie & Fitch, Anthropologie and the largest Forever 21 store in the US. Prices are good – I bagged a pair of Levi’s for just $20, a fraction of back-home prices. For designer labels, head to The Shops at Crystals (3720 South Las Vegas Boulevard, +1 702 590 GAME 9299; theshopsatcrystals. Over the last decade, Las PLAN com), the 500,000 sq foot Vegas has drawn celebrity Whether you’re visiting mall designed by Daniel chefs to its hotel restaurants Vegas to elope, gamble, starLibeskind to look like a like bears to honey. Sixtyspot or stuff yourselves silly giant diamond. four of them on the Strip at on fine cuisine, visit lastvegas. In Las Vegas, you the last count. There’s a good com to help plan your trip. can eat pretty much sprinkling of Michelin stars to Everything is there, from whenever, which is just keep the gambling gourmand daytrip ideas to as well because it’s easy to happy but if you’re more in need wedding info. lose your grip on time here. I of comfort food, there are also breakfast at Wicked Spoon at The plenty of top-notch pit-stops such as Cosmopolitan (3708 South Las BLT Burger at The Mirage (mirage. Vegas Boulevard, +1 702 698 7870; com) or Guy Fieri’s Vegas Kitchen Outside the El Cortez Hotel in cosmopolitanlasvegas.com), where and Bar at The Linq (caesars.com). Downtown, an old my fellow diners wear everything For the high roller, Joël Robuchon Chevrolet Impala from beachwear to cocktail dresses at the MGM Grand (mgmgrand. awaits its master with skyscraper heels. I’m on my com) provides memorable fine or mistress. third visit to their all-you-can-eat dining (the full tasting menu is buffet bar, which seems to be as $900 for two). SW Steakhouse at long and wide as the Strip itself. Wynn (wynnlasvegas.com) has the This is a city that understands finest Kobe beef, while at CUT by buffets. At Wicked Spoon, you can Wolfgang Puck at the Venetian choose from tapas-style platelets (venetian.com), carnivores can chew of granola, sushi, pad thai, fried on anything from 35-day dry aged chicken, short stack, fruit salad, to wagyu. But for spectacle on and quinoa and kale salad, in fact, any off the plate, Lago at the Bellagio number of salads, a big fry, burgers, (bellagio.com) is the showstopper. or a bakery’s worth of pastries. Every night, at 15-minute intervals, 90 |

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ILLUSTRATION BY ELLY WALTON

EXPLORE | LAS VEGAS

1,214 spritzers rocket water nearly 500 feet choreographed to music from the likes of the Beatles and Michael Jackson. Nor does the food by chef Julian Serrano play second fiddle – reinvigorated Italian classics to revive played-out palates. For the first timer like me, a visit to Las Vegas is like stepping into a cartoon. It’s Disneyland for adults; a parallel world where the theatre ushers are dressed as popstars instead of Mickey Mouse, there’s a Louvre pyramid instead of Space Mountain and sugar highs are delivered via cocktails instead of candy floss. It’s massive, it’s blingtastic, it’s a whole lot of fun – and you might just get lucky. Follow Fran @francespower

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CULTURE | TOULOUSE

Everything Toulouse No matter where in the world you go, the locals always know best. Clare Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Reilly cuts to the chase with some native (and not so native) Toulousains to find some of the best spots. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

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Heavenly light streams into SaintĂ&#x2030;tienne Cathedral.

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n pain au chocolat s’ il vous plâit?” I ventured in the best French accent I could muster before coffee. The woman behind the counter smiled. “We say ‘chocolatine’ here,” she explained, reaching for a pretty china plate. “Une chocolatine,” I repeated. As a word, it rolled off the tongue, and as a pastry, paired with a piping hot cup of café, it was the perfect way to start the day’s explorations. Toulouse in the southwest of France has long been a favourite city of mine. However I’m always hard-pressed to explain why that is, precisely, so I travelled to “La Ville Rose” to interview some locals in an attempt to pin down its charms. In order to keep things as local as possible, I used the website Airbnb (airbnb.com) to book my accommodation. Earlier that morning I’d woken up in the highceilinged bedroom of an elegantly

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restored apartment at 16 Rue Vélane, a 17th-century palace in the historical district of StÉtienne. The district is a leisurely 15-minute walk from the city centre and, the night before, my Airbnb host, Jean-Marc Lancuentra, had taken me on a tour through its winding narrow streets. “This neighbourhood is my favourite place in Toulouse,” JeanMarc said. “The streets are so narrow that you don’t see many cars, just bicycles. It can feel a bit like you’ve gone back in time.” And as I stepped out of the front door of Les Soeurs Baguettes (9 Rue Perchepinte, +33 561 321 973) the following morning, with a second chocolatine in hand, I could see what he meant. The streets of St-Étienne were so still that you could be forgiven for thinking you’d arrived via a time machine. I spent a

Top, the rooftops of The Pink City; above, Clare O’Reilly keeps it local in Toulouse.

very pleasant morning exploring its streets, peeking through the windows of antique shops and popping into charming salon du thés. For lunch, on Jean-Marc’s recommendation, I went to the very buzzy Chez Navarre (49 Grande Rue Nazareth, +33 562 264 306 – see ‘Eat at’ on p98). Afterwards I meandered through Toulouse’s oldest park, the Jardin des Plantes, encountering ducklings, bicycles and plenty of photo opportunities. The combination of the blue of the sky, the red of the buildings and the green of the treetops, makes almost every photograph instantly uploadable. Later that afternoon I stepped out of the 17th century and into the Irish bar Mulligan’s (39 Grande Rue St-Michel, +33 561 140 421) for a pint. Rugby fans might be

Carcassonne LOCAL’S TIP The beautiful cities of Albi and than two and the ski town of Ax-Les-Thermes are all less abiau. hours away by train from Gare de Toulouse-Mat

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CULTURE | TOULOUSE

Sleep at … SELF-CATERING Airbnb caters for all budgets. My one-bedroom apartment in St-Étienne slept two people and was priced at €80 a night, plus charges. There are rooms advertised near the city centre for considerably less, as long as you don’t mind staying in a stranger’s home. If you’re a firsttime user, make sure you check the reviews before booking and keep in mind that Airbnb adds up to a 12 per cent service charge on top of the listed price. (airbnb.com) BOUTIQUE The small and cosy Hotel

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des Arts consists of just 12 guest rooms. It’s located next to the Fine Arts museum, Musée des Augustins, in the centre of Toulouse. Single rooms from €72, breakfast extra. (1 bis Rue Cantegril, +33 561 233 621; en.hoteldesartstoulouse.fr) HANDY The bright and airy four-star Novotel Centre Place Wilson is located in the very heart of Toulouse and is convenient to all major attractions. It’s a few minutes’ walk to the nearest Métro stop of Capitole. Includes a sauna, hot-tub and a fitness

centre. Executive suites available. Rooms from €115. (15 Place du Président Thomas Wilson, +33 561 107 070; accorhotels.com) BUZZY Slap-bang in the centre of everything, the four-star Citiz Hotel on the busy Allees Jean Jaures is a great base for exploring the city. Grand on the outside – it’s a listed building dating back to 1900 – and comfortable, stylish, and with helpful staff, on the inside. Rooms from €142.40. (18 Allees Jean Jaures, +800 97 334 226; citizhotel-toulouse.com)

familiar with the bar, given that it’s just down the road from the Stadium Municipale, but it’s also a pub with strong GAA connections. It seems like every major European city has become a little bit more Irish in the last few years, thanks to so many young Irish emigrants seeking their fortunes abroad, and Toulouse is no different. Four years ago, the Tolosa Gaels (tolosagaels.fr) GAA club was formed. GAA is a very foreign sport to most Toulousains, but the club is slowly converting the locals. Currently there are 35 members registered with the Gaels and training takes place twice a week. After Mulligan’s, I make my way across the Pont Neuf bridge to the district of St-Cyprién – a young and arty neighbourhood with an abundance of independent bars and restaurants. Even on week nights during low season, Vasco de Gamma (1 Place de l’Estrapade, +33 561 506 811; le-vasco.fr) can be packed to capacity. I eventually found a table on the terrace and settled down to tuck into some tasty tapas – the highlight of which was a delicious dish of black pudding and peach. Vasco de Gamma is just one of many tapas bars in St-Cyprién – Toulouse is a two-hour drive from Spain and there’s a very Spanish feel to this French city. One of the best things about Toulouse is its location. If you visit in the summertime and have a few days to spare, you’ll have your pick of day-trip destinations – all accessible by train (sncf.fr), while the Pass Tourisme (toulouse-visit. com) is good value if you’re using different types of public transport and sightseeing: it offers free travel across the entire Tisseo network (bus, metro, tram, airport shuttle) as well

as complimentary access to many museums and monuments, and a three-day pass costs €33.50. The small city of Albi, a UNESCO World Heritage Centre, is just one hour away by rail, as is the charming medieval city of Carcassonne. Foix, a 75-minute trip, with its narrow medieval streets, is like a peek into the past. It’s a small town at the edge of the Pyrénées, with a huge castle that dates from 987 AD. The following morning I handed

Opposite page, Clare’s palatial Airbnb find. Clockwise from above, a French bulldog; Laure Baudet Antiquités, which is full of antique curios, and greengrocer Ali Kinane at Marché Cristal, the largest fruit market in France.

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Eat at … BUDGET Le Compans Bar & Grill is ideally located for a casual bite after a leisurely afternoon walk along the canal. A tasty lunch of burger, frites de maison and a bottle of beer will set you back €13. Fixed price menu also available. (19 Boulevard Lascrosses, +33 561 139 405) MID-RANGE At buffet-style eatery Chez Navarre, you’ll be sitting down with strangers, serving yourself and clearing away your own plates. Ingredients are sourced from local markets so the menu changes daily. Simple, charming fare and an experience to remember. You must reserve at least one day in advance. Lunch from €16, dinner from €25, drinks not included. (49 Grande Rue Nazareth, +33 562 264 306) SPLURGE Sample the gastronomic delights of the twice Michelin-starred chef Michel Sarran in his charming, eponymous townhouse restaurant, five minutes’ walk from the Compans Caffarelli Métro. You can splurge your savings on the evening tasting menu but you can also treat yourself to a three-course lunch, including wine and coffee for just €51. Closed weekends and Wednesday lunchtime (21 Boulevard Armand Duportal, +33 561 123 232; michel-sarran.com)

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Above, the raffish Frederic Versavel at Tom Pouce Café. Below left, Toulouse sausage at Boucherie St George, served by Clementine Rico and, below right, joggers on the Canal Du Midi.

back the keys to my palace apartment. Jean-Marc was off to Paris and I’d arranged to stay at the Hotel Novotel Toulouse Centre Wilson (15 Place du Président Thomas Wilson, +33 561 107 070; accorhotels.com) for my last night in Toulouse. It wasn’t my palace but it was very nice indeed and its location, in the heart of Toulouse, was ideal. After dropping off my luggage, it took me two minutes to walk to the famous Victor Hugo covered food market where I spent an hour weaving between food stalls, fellow tourists, and little old French ladies

doing their morning shopping. The centre of Toulouse is compact and pedestrian-friendly and most of the attractions are close to one another. The city’s most famous attraction is the Basilique St-Sernin (Place StSernin, +33 561 218 045; basiliquesaint-sernin.fr). A UNESCO World Heritage site, the impressive basilica is a stop on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. The Musée St-Raymond (1B Place Saint-Sernin, +33 561 223 144), situated on the same square, is also worth a visit for boasting the second biggest collection of Roman emperor busts in France, after the Louvre. That afternoon I took a stroll beside the Canal du Midi and soaked up the sun. The 241-kilometre-long canal, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, connects Toulouse to the Mediterranean Sea. It was built by Pierre-Paul Riquet and, in an interesting twist, his grandson once owned 16 Rue Vélane – my Airbnb apartment in St-Étienne. Toulouse is home to France’s second oldest university and has a reputation as a young and

CULTURE | TOULOUSE

Five Must-do’s …

Sun’s out? Mais, oui. Head for the banks of the Garonne river to cool down and soak up the atmosphere. Until September 6, it’s transformed into a beach – Toulouse Plages – with sandy spots, sports and kids’ play areas, so be sure to pack a bucket and spade in your carry-on. toulouse.fr

The music-minded Festival Toulouse d’Été runs this year until August 7, with concerts taking place in some of the city’s most historic buildings. It’s a wonderful way to experience the best the city has to offer while enjoying a spectacular live soundtrack. toulousedete.org

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If you’re a fan of classical music, there’s no better time to visit “La Ville Rose” than September 8-30, for the international piano festival Piano aux Jacobins. Global musicians will be tinkling the ivories in assorted auditoria, as well as in the splendid Cloître des Jacobins (cloisters) of the Couvent des Jacobins (convent). pianojacobins.com

Rent some wheels – from only €20 a day at La Maison du Vélo (maisonduvelotoulouse.com) – and explore not just the city centre but the beautiful Canal du Midi by bike. The 241-kilometre canal links Toulouse to the

Mediterranean and has plenty of lovely pitstops at which to eat and drink along the way. Or, pick up a picnic lunch at one of the morning food markets for a truly Toulousain treat.

Take a break from the heat and make a date with some international contemporary art in Les Abattoirs. This stunning museum with a colourful past (the clue is in the name) is a five-minute walk from the St-Cyprién-République Métro stop and, among many things, is currently showing Picasso’s La depouille de Minotaure en costume d’Arlequin, an artwork painted on to curtain for Romain Rolland’s play Le 14 Juillet in 1936. lesabattoirs.org

Waiting for friends rarely looks as good as when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re perching over the River Garonne.

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ILLUSTRATION BY BETH WALROND

vibrant city. Aircraft manufacturer Airbus employs 11,500 people in Toulouse and is credited with attracting a lot of young internationals to the city. On my final night in Toulouse, I met one such “young international”, Debora Parreiras, 25, from Brazil, who works as a designer with Airbus. She moved to Toulouse six years ago. Eager to show off the city’s night-life, she brought me to Connexion (8 rue Gabriel Péri, + 33 977 085 964; connexioncafe.com) – a popular live music venue. There was no live music on that evening. Instead there was a free showing of the Rocky Horror Picture Show on a giant screen in the inside bar. Having established that we both prefer the time-warp that is modern-day Toulouse, we sat on the terrace outside and shared a carafe of wine, while she gave me her tips on how to get the best out of Toulouse. “The summer is the time to be here,” she said. “As soon as the weather gets warm, everyone goes down to the banks of the Garonne river, to relax and drink and be happy.” Deborah was also positive about Toulouse’s vibrant arts scene: “There are interesting things

LOCAL’S TIP

going on all of the time, especially outside the city centre. It’s an exciting place to be.” In a few years, she plans to move back to Brazil to be closer to her family. “You’re so enthusiastic about all things Toulouse,” I remarked as we got up to go. “It must be strange to think about leaving it all behind.” “I know,” she said, “I love it here. It’s going to be difficult to leave.” I may have only been in town a few short days, but it wasn’t too hard to see what she meant.

Watch out for weekends. Many restaurants and attractions close on Mondays, and Sunday afternoons can be very quiet too. For more info on all things Toulouse, from its museums to its shopping, log on to toulouse-visit.com

Les Soeurs Baguettes’ Lucie Bonal, Lea Barbillon and Margot Carcy with the next generation of bakers, far left.

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ECO BREAKS | BEING THERE

Catherine Murphy picks five places to holiday that are also kind to the planet.

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Luxe Le Grand Joux, Portes du Soleil, France This privately-owned alpine lodge and spa combines luxury with eco-friendliness. Set in a little mountain hamlet at the foot of Roc d’Enfer, it’s 15 minutes from bustling Morzine and less than one-and-a-half hours from Geneva but still feels very much like a remote retreat. Surrounded by lush meadows and distant peaks, it’s accessible in summer only by mountain trail. The chef may have a Michelin star but the ethos is eco – food is local and organic, wine is sourced from small private vineyards in France and Europe, beers are handcrafted and cider is organic. The eco ethos continues across all three levels of this

chalet retreat: electricity is solar-powered, fresh mountain spring water is served, towels are organic bamboo cotton. Guests are encouraged to star gaze at night using a vintage telescope. For an active retreat, go mountain biking, hiking, golfing or simply walk through the nearby forest in search of deer, marmots, goats and bob cats. Wander into the bustling market town of Thonon or relax at Le Grand Joux with a yoga and meditation or juice detox programme. MUST DO Savour the lodge’s Spa, which embraces nature. Have a massage in the traditional yurt. Practise yoga on the outdoor deck. Take a dry flotation bath, relax guilt-

free in the wood burning hot tub and soak up the views in the barrel sauna, complete with glass wall overlooking the valley. EAT AT The Lodge has a full-time staff of five, including a Michelin star, two Rosette-awarded chef, so you won’t want to leave to eat. COST Rooms at Le Grand Joux start at €170 during summer months and in winter rent a chalet including meals and transport to the slopes for €2,000 a head per week. (Le Grand Joux, Les Bovis, Essert Romand, +44 203 287 5456; legrandjoux.com) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO GENEVA DAILY.

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ECO BREAKS | BEING THERE

Wellness Ard Nahoo, Co Leitrim, Ireland Noeleen Tyrell and Brendan Murphy started out with a health farm in peaceful Co Leitrim and transformed it into one of Europe’s top eco and yoga retreats. The business is a true family affair with sons Daragh and Eoin also involved. As the first Irish business to be awarded the Ecolabel for tourism accommodation, their green credentials are obvious. The retreat’s wooden cabins were built using sustainable cedar wood from Donegal, hemp insulation, natural paints and limited concrete. Each cabin has a private deck with lovely views of surrounding hills and, while they are self-catering, guests

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can also arrange to have vegetarian meals prepared by a local chef and delivered each evening. One thing that’s always on the menu at Ard Nahoo is yoga, usually combined with detox and relaxation during day-long or five-day retreats. Those with a deeper interest can train as yoga teachers at the centre, which also offers budget retreats and yoga for pregnancy. EXPLORE Walk the centre’s nature trail, the Loch Nahoo loop or take the water bus across Lough Gill to Sligo, taking in the Lake Isle of Innisfree. MUST DO Dip into Uisce, Ard Nahoo’s

indoor/outdoor wet space. Relax in the ecofriendly hot tub or burn off some calories in the infrared detox box. EAT AT The Riverbank Restaurant in Dromahair (riverbankrestaurant.ie), run by John Kelly who trained with top Irish chef Neven Maguire. COST Ard Nahoo’s Ultimate Escape package includes two nights’ accommodation in a private cabin, hot tub session, massage and organic supper on one evening, from €195 midweek per person sharing. (Ard Nahoo, Mullagh, Dromahair, Co Leitrim, 071 913 4939; ardnahoo.com)

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ECO BREAKS | BEING THERE

Retreat Can Martí, Ibiza If you’ve ever breathed in the unforgettable scent of Ibiza’s orange groves, you’ll know there’s no more fragrant or natural place in which to unwind. For the past 20 years, Can Martí on the north of the island has been an oasis for eco travellers. Set around a 400-year-old house, this solar-powered retreat features different “habitats” to suit different guests, with simple but colourful accommodation ranging from an Arabic stone house to Indian-styled apartments. The retreat is also home to a sustainable working farm which grows fruit, vegetables, olives, almonds and, most enticingly, saffron. The retreat’s natural swimming pool is the only one of its kind on Ibiza, cleaned by

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plants that grow in a filtering basin, thereby cutting out the need for chlorine or other chemicals. A highlight of any visit to Can Martí has to be the Moroccan Hammam where guests rub on Beldi soap made from olive oil, water and salt before exfoliating and enjoying an Argan massage. Ibiza is said to have the highest concentration of yoga centres in Europe so it’s no surprise that Can Martí also offers both yoga and Pilates. Ibiza is only 24 kilometres by 17 kilometres so you’re never far from the culture and history of the island. MUST DO Explore Ibiza’s natural wonders, from the world-famous orchids that flourish in limestone rising up from

the Balearic sea to the Ses Salines nature reserve. Cycle to some of the island’s hidden coves or beaches, such as Aguas Blancas or Portinatx. EAT AT Can Pau (+34 971 197 007), a traditional restaurant serving Ibizan and Catalan dishes, three kilometres away. COST Accommodation per night at the Olivo stone house (sleeps four people) is priced at €270 in high season. (Can Martí Agroturismo, Sant Joan, +34 971 333 500; canmarti.com) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO IBIZA TWICE WEEKLY.

Rural Refugio Marnes, Alicante, Spain Situated in a nature reserve, this rural hideaway might as well be a million miles from Costa del Sol’s mass tourism. Dutchowned, it aims to bring guests back in time through wild nature and the ancient history of Spanish farm life. The retreat is set on 20 hectares of farmland in a private valley and named after Marnes, a small hamlet set on Sierra de Bernia. The star of the show is La Jaima, a Bedouin tent that sleeps four people and was made by the Casablanca tent-maker who made the luxury tents for King Mohammed VI of Morocco. The traditionally-crafted tent features removable walls for summer and all facilities are within the tent – glamping at its best. Blessed by the healthiest climate in Europe and surrounded by carob, olive and almond trees, this small eco retreat also features Los Establos, a B&B housed in old stables, and La Ruina, an old sheepfold that has been transformed in to a charming finca. Electricity at Refugio Marnes is solar-

powered, swimming pool water is recycled for winter, and packages on offer include a detox and anti-stress week, walking weeks and intensive Spanish language courses. MUST DO Explore the intriguing Moorish and Christian history of this area. Refugio Marnes has a project to restore the ancient stacked stone walls (Bancales) that the Phoenicians, Moors and, later, Spanish used to retain soil – cement your knowledge at the Archaeological Museum of Alicante (marqalicante.com). EAT AT Refugio Marnes offers B&B. Nearby villages of Pinos and Benissa offer a number of traditional Spanish restaurants. COST La Jaima costs from €663 per week. (Refugio Marnes, Ptd Marnes 20115, Benissa, +34 966 181 040; refugiomarnes.com) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO ALICANTE FOUR TIMES PER WEEK, AND FROM CORK TWICE WEEKLY.

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ECO BREAKS | BEING THERE

Chic H2 hotel, Healdsburg, California, USA The first thing you’ll notice about the H2 is its undulating green roof, designed to filter rainwater and reduce the amount of heat given off by the hotel. Set in the charming historic town of Healdsburg, about an hour away from San Francisco and in the heart of northern Sonoma wine country, the H2 packs a mighty eco punch. Guests are offered bikes and free weekend yoga classes. The high-performance green building is LEED Gold certified, the swimming pool is solarpowered, sheets and towels are organic. Even the art in this hip utilitarian hotel is eco: check out the Water Wall, which features rainwater filtered from the living roof.

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Healdsburg is also known as a river resort so go kayaking or canoeing on Russian river (russianriveradventures.com), hiking, or visit the local farmers’ market. There are more than 100 wineries and tasting rooms in the surrounding area and H2 concierge staff will create a personalised wine tour itinerary based on guest preferences. MUST DO The Chalk Hill Winery culinary tour (chalkhill.com), which takes guests on an organic garden walk and into the vineyard for a sit-down tasting with small plates for $100 per person. EAT AT H2’s Spoonbar restaurant,

where chef Louis Maldonado ensures that everything – even the herbs and fruit used in cocktails – is local and organic. Healdsburg is known for its fine dining, and Barndiva (barndiva.com) is one of a number of restaurants in the area that specialises in local organic food. COST Packages at the H2Hotel cost from $339 pp per night including dinner, bike use and tasting passes for two wineries. (H2Hotel, 219 Healdsburg Avenue, +1 707 922 5251; h2hotel.com) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO SAN FRANCISCO DAILY.

MOVING TALENT TO AND FROM IRELAND. International and Local Moving Home and School Search Orientation and Cultural Immersion T: +353 1 809 7032 www.santaferelo.com

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MASTERCLASS | SUSHI MAKING

Sushi in the Sky

Eleanor Costello learns to get her fingers around making Japanese art on a plate. es, just like that,” Kuma says, studiously eyeing my handful of shrimp nigiri. I’m oddly proud of the platter I’ve produced in front of me. We’ve been making sushi with chef Hisashi Kumagi, at RAW, the sushi restaurant atop the Radisson Blu hotel in Galway. It’s certainly an interesting way to spend a Saturday afternoon, even if our group is feeling slightly intimidated by the refinement required to attain sushi perfection. My unexpected success is all down to our teacher, Japaneseborn, now Galway resident, Kuma, who is patient and kind as we try to craft ingredients into recognisable sushi shapes. Approval from a real sushi chef is great, but my newfound confidence is brief – my next attempt falls apart as soon as I try to set it down. Those I’ve consulted, who are well-versed in the art of sushi, have revealed that everything rests upon the quality of the rice, but Kuma adds to this nugget, telling us it’s all about the rice and the fish, which seems obvious. Hailing from a country where a single tuna has sold for over a million dollars, Kuma is serious about seafood, thus it’s a source of pride that our magnanimous mentor considers Galway’s native marine offering –

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rice, and the elegance as he gently shapes it with two fingers, flipping and pressing down, makes me consider sushi in a different light. It almost comes across as some sort of performance art. Eating at RAW the previous night and then seeing the care that had been put into the food was PAMPER combined with the imports humbling, but it made me PACKAGE available locally – more than appreciate what we had Enjoy an overnight stay worthy of his art. been served even more. at the Radisson Blu Galway, The class began with an Perhaps it’s the creative the delicious set menu at attempt at making maki rolls scene in Galway, or the RAW, and an Elemis facial at with paper-thin nori (dried restaurant’s spectacular the spa for just €165 pps. seaweed wraps), which held sea views that have radissonhotelgalway.com up surprisingly well under the aroused Kuma’s unfaltering pressure of my bamboo mat. enthusiasm, but the pride he A lighter touch is better, we’re clearly has in his work is told; let the apparatus do the work. pretty infectious. The “ice cream cone” temaki roll is In the four years RAW has resided by far the most difficult. I end up Clockwise from at the Radisson, Kuma tells us, there left, rolling maki has been just one complaint, from with sticky rice all over my hands, with a bamboo a Japanese man. I don’t know what clothes and table, but none on the mat; Eleanor seaweed. Folding the salmon and Costello masters the Japanese might think of my cress inside the cone feels the art; chef motley attempts and, to be honest, Hisashi Kumagi – I think I’d be too scared to find out, akin to origami, but my a magnanimous but Kuma’s encouragements are determination eventually mentor. wins out – I successfully confidence boosting so I won’t be produce a cone-shape too afraid to share what I’ve learned that isn’t falling apart. once I’m back home. In fact, I feel Next up: nigiri. a sushi night coming on, once I get I falsely assumed this my maki rolls just right … would be the easiest so I’m taken aback by On the first Saturday of every month, the theatrical finessing the Radisson Blu’s Sushi Masterclass will Kuma applies to the take you high above Galway’s skyline, for grains. There is a a totally different cultural experience, at certain way to roll the only €25 per person. sushiinthesky.ie

Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area

Conveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner fromTrinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs.Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ... ●

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´

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Irish Music and Traditional Irish Dancing 7 nights-a-week

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Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

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Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers

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Pour Your Own Pint tables

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Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

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For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts

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HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

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Our‘Really Good’Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten for quality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast, pictured below.

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Music and Dancing 7 nights

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

“Top 5 places to ﬁnd Real Irish Food in Dublin”

BEING THERE | PARIS

48 hours in

Paris

You’ve seen the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Pompidou, Montmartre. Where next? Lucy White pounds the streets of Paris.

Culture at …

ECLECTIC There is nowhere in Paris like the extraordinary Le Comptoir Général, a 600sqm multifunctional “ghetto museum” celebrating Franco-African cultures, housing arts events, a thrift shop, classrooms, a barbershop, its own radio station and also pit-stops: Le Rade being a thriving bar where it’s survival of the fittest at weekends to get a seat. A true original. (80 Quai de Jemmapes; lecomptoirgeneral.com)

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DESIGN Les Arts Décoratifs occupies a few wings of the Louvre but is a museum in its own right, with its own entrance and admission e price. Prepare to be dazzled by more than 150,000 objects d’art, from e Medieval furniture and René Lalique ry glassware to the bronze, 19th-century bed donated to the museum by the infamous courtesan Valtesse de la Bigne, who inspired Emile Zola’s novel Nana. (107 Rue de Rivoli, +33 144 555 750; lesartsdecoratifs.fr)

Clockwise from top, Paris, as seen from Notre Dame; Le Comptoir Général’s barbershop; FrançoisXavier Lalanne’s magnificent rhinoceros desk, “Rhinocrétaire’” (1966) at Les Arts Décoratifs.

FASHION Palais Galliera’s collection is a who’s-who of French fashion history, from clothing worn by Marie-Antoinette to the iconic Givenchy LBD worn by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, plus pieces by Pierre Balmain, Paul Poiret, Sonia Delaunay and Elsa Schiaparelli. Temporary exhibits only – the current Jeanne Lanvin retrospective until August 23 is exquisite. (10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, Rue de Galliera, +33 156 528 600; palaisgalliera.paris.fr)

Eat at … ART NOUVEAU Pretend you’re hobnobbing with architect Hector Guimard (who designed Bastille’s Metro entrance, a short walk away) at Le Bistrot du Peintre in the 11th arrondissement, a restaurant that dates back to 1902. Original Art Nouveau features abound, the upstairs area is super-cute, and the food is tasty – my grilled prawn and sesame oil salad followed by a zesty orange tart with almond cream were knockout. (116 Avenue Ledru Rollin, +33 147 003 439; bistrotdupeintre.com) SHARING PLATES Au Passage is a bijou joint where French tapas-

style dishes offer sophisticated light bites, from nose-to-tail meats to oysters and asparagus with poached egg. Moreover, staff are as warm as the freshly baked bread. (1 bis Passage Saint-Sébastien, +33 1 43 55 07 52; restaurant-aupassage.fr) TAKEOUT Riding on the coattails of the success of his restaurant Frenchie, chef Gregory Marchand has launched Frenchie to Go. Grab a lobster roll and ginger beer to go and chow down on a sunny bench in this hip ’hood known as Little Egypt. (9 Rue du Nil, +33 140 262 343; frenchietogo.com)

Drink at … Above left, Frenchie to Go is perfect for food on the hop. Left, impeccably tasteful bedrooms at Hotel l’Antoine.

Sleep at … QUIRKY Fashion designer Christian Lacroix continues his second career as an interior designer, with the threestar Hotel l ’Antoine being his newest muse. Here, colours and patterns run riot, with each of the hotel’s five floors inspired by the area’s bohemian past – cue a mash-up of Baroque, graffiti, trompe l’oeil and fluoro. The lounge’s honesty bar is a nice touch, while the short stroll to the Bastille Metro makes getting around a cinch. Rooms from €110. (12 Rue de Charonne, +33 155 283 011; hotelantoinebastilleparis.com) CHARMING Paris is known for its shoebox-size rooms and the Hotel Henri IV is no exception – but how many single rooms offer a spacious private terrace? Truly lovely, this Left

EN SEINE ASYLUM Pull up a deckchair, play beach volleyball, or take a Bank boutique hotel is dip in a floating pool at Paris small but perfectly-formed Plages, at the Bassin de la and just a baguette’s Villette and Place de throw from the pretty Saint l’Hôtel de Ville until Severin Church. Rooms from August 18. €150. (9-11 Rue Saint Jacques, +33 146 332 020; henri4hotel.com)

HIP A self-proclaimed “bed and beverage”, Grand Pigalle opened this spring to much fanfare and is already a hipster magnet. The brainchild of cocktail bar and restaurant tastemakers The Experimental Group, this 37-room five-star in buzzy SoPi (South Pigalle) combines old-school elegance with contemporary luxury (the cocktails are très bon). Rooms from €165. (29 Rue Victor Massé, +33 185 731 200; grandpigalle.com)

ASIAN Open since spring, Hero is from the same hipster stable as Candelaria, Glass and Le Mary Celeste. Korean fried chicken is its USP, although the deviled eggs, dumplings and kimchi mac ‘n’ cheese are also tastebud-pleasers. If nothing else, perch at the ground floor cocktail bar for colourful cocktails. (289 Rue SaintDenis, +33 1 23 45 67 89; heroparis.com) LEAFY Bistrot des Dames is what Parisian-courtyard dreams are made of, a verdant inner sanctum away from the hustle and bustle of Montmartre. Sup on a chilled Sancerre in the garden terrace, and pick on cheese boards and charcuterie. (18 Rue des Dames, +33 145 221 342; eldoradohotel.fr) ROOFTOP Located on the top floor of the historic Printemps department store, Déli-Cieux has a très jolie backdrop. Sure, you won’t be the only one there toasting the panorama with a glass of champagne, but who cares when views are this good? (64 Boulevard Haussmann, +33 142 825 000; departmentstoreparis.printemps.com) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO PARIS DAILY.

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Your Relaxation, Business, Leisure and Family Resort in beautiful County Mayo

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Our 90 acre park and woodland resort is home to two hotels – Breaffy House Hotel with 106 rooms for relaxed leisure and business breaks and We wou Breaffy Woods Hotel with 128 rooms for family fun and holiday ld to host love your breaks – with only a few minutes stroll between each property. wed The multi-award-winning Healy Mac’s Irish Bar and Restaurant now open at Breaffy House

Breaffy Spa features 12 treatment rooms which includes 2 Dry Floatation Therapy beds, a Hydrotherapy Bath and our signature Rasul Mud Chamber

ding

Breaffy House Resort is a registered civil wedding ceremony venue with banqueting facilities catering for up to 500 guests and conferences of up to 2,500 delegates Breaffy Buddies Kids Club with playground, astro turf pitch and indoor games room

Breaffy Leisure Centre with 20m swimming pool, sauna, steam, jacuzzi and large fully equipped gym

Knock Airport 40km, Shannon 2 hours drive, Dublin 2.5 hours drive

30,000 square feet Indoor Sports Arena

Multiple two-bedroomed Apartments

Breaffy House Resort, Breaffy, Castlebar, Co Mayo, Ireland Phone: +353 (0)94 9022033 | Fax: +353 (0)94 90222763 | Email: info@breaffyhouseresort.com

For special offers – www.breaffyhouseresort.com

DAN GOLDBERG

If Lake Michigan’s waters haven’t warmed up by now, dip your toes in the junior Olympic-size pool on the 14th floor of the INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL . According to the history books, it’s where Johnny Weissmuller trained for his role as Tarzan. (505 North Michigan Avenue,+1 312 944 4100; icchicagohotel.com)

AN INSIDER’S GUID E TO

Chicago

From a butterfly park to where to go for cocktails, Christine Gallagher Kearney takes you off the tourist trail.

GUS ALEXANDER

Forget the “Magnificent Mile” shopping strip on Michigan Avenue. LE THRIFT checks all the consignment clothes shopping boxes: clean, well organised, has a great selection of brands, and is competitively priced. Don’t go looking for anything in particular, because a new Furla handbag or Diane von Furstenberg dress will find you. (1821 West Chicago Avenue, +1 312 912 9676; lethrift.com)

GALWAY BAY is the ultimate dive bar. There are no frills or fancy cocktails, just an old oblong bar with craic flowing all around. Co-owned since 2009 by Nolan Rafferty from Co Tyrone and Jason Conklin from Michigan, you’ll often find them slagging regulars with their pet names, such as “Horse Box” and “Sparkles”. (500 West Diversey Parkway, +1 773 348 3750)

LURIE GARDEN is a five-acre wild oasis in the middle of the city. Soak your feet in the cool, multi-level pool and take in a unique view of the city, where birds chirp and prairie grass rustles in the wind. (201 East Randolph Street; luriegarden.org)

GILT BAR is like a beautiful, stylish but well-worn handbag. The bone marrow on the appetiser menu at this River North staple is something you have to try, even if you don’t think you’ll like it, washed down with a great draught beer or lovely wine (I prefer an Aviation cocktail). Cheers! (230 West Kinzie Street, +1 312 464 9544; giltbarchicago.com)

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BERG

DANIEL KELLEGHAN

PHOTO

DAN GOLD

If you haven’t heard, Chicago’s microbrew scene is hot. The taproom of the HALF ACRE BREWERY in the North Center neighbourhood ranks at the top of my microbrewery list. I order Space, their staple IPA, which is served lovingly by their bartenders and only available onsite. (4257 North Lincoln Avenue, +1 773 248 4038; halfacrebeer.com)

MICHAEL

ROBINSO

VIOLET HOUR in Wicker Park reminds me of Alice in Wonderland. It’s easy to miss – look for the door within an ever-changing mural. Once inside, tread up a dark hallway, transpose through long, velvety curtains into a dimly lit space where mobile phones take a backseat to delightful conversations and exquisitely crafted cocktails. (1520 North Damen Avenue, +1 773 252 1500; theviolethour.com)

Some say HOPLEAF BAR is Chicago’s best beer bar. I agree. Located in the Uptown/Andersonville neighbourhood, the draught beer list at last count was at 60 and changes frequently. Wine lovers won’t be disappointed either by 70 reasonably priced bottles. Food is excellent too (tip: order the mussels). (5148 North Clark Street, +1 773 334 9851; hopleafbar.com)

Get up close and personal with 75 species of 1,000 butterflies in the humid JUDY ISTOCK BUTTERFLY HAVEN at the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum, being sure to check for “hitchhikers” as you leave the enclosed sanctuary ... (2430 North Cannon Drive, +1 773 755 5100; naturemuseum.org) If you suddenly find yourself with a flat tyre while biking along Lincoln Avenue in the Lakeview neighbourhood, bring your bike to HERITAGE BICYCLE GENERAL STORE . For $15 you can get it fixed and a cup of locally roasted coffee while you wait, it being a true cross between a bike shop and a café. (2959 North Lincoln Avenue, +1 773 245 3005; heritagebicycles.com)

More about Christine

Irish by marriage (her husband is from Co Down) and by immigration (her ancestors hail from Co Donegal), this Minnesotan-born writer explores food in a monthly column for the Irish American News. By day she’s a PR and communications cations professional and, when she’s not enjoying Chicago, you’ll find her travelling regularly to Ireland, Spain, Australia – or wherever her heart takes her. Follow her on Twitter @CGKwrites.

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AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO CHICAGO DAILY.

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TRADITIONAL IRISH BARS, RESTAURANT & ACCOMMODATION

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BEING THERE | COMPORTA

SPOTLIGHT COMPORTA MANUEL GOMES DA COSTA

PHILIPP SCHWARZ

Compiled by Lucy White

Make Time For …

TO TABLES Given its coastal location some 125 kilometres TOP so south of Lisbon, pescatarians are spoilt for choice in Comporta. As are rice lovers – the region is abundant with paddy fields. Pu Pull up a deckchair, or brightly-coloured beanbag, at the be beachfront Comporta Café (+351 265 497 652), and order ar arroz de lingueirão (rice with razorfish). Another hotspot fo for shellfish lunches – or sundowners accompanied by lip-smacking locally-produced rosé – is Ilha do Arroz (restauranteilhadoarroz.com), which has great seafood stew for two served with rice. Also with panoramic sea views, but on Pego beach, is Restaurante SAL (restaurantesal.pt), wher fish soup, wild sea bass, fried calamari and more can where shed down do with fine fin sangria. The owners of Ilha do Arroz also run the more-inland be washed Museo du Arroz (restaurantemuseudoarroz.com), left, where plump olives, bacalhau (salted cod) cakes, and figs with cured ham tickle the fancy. As do their caipiroskas ...

NATURE Twitchers, fish fanciers, dolphin lovers and hikers won’t be disappointed by the Sado Estuary, a natural reserve between Setubal and Troia that spans more than 23,000 hectares. Bottle-nosed dolphins frequently swim alongside boats, and more than 200 species of birds can be found among the area’s rice fields, reed beds and sandbars. icnf.pt

WINE The sprawling estate around the

3 Sweet Retreats …

Herdade da Comporta Winery is

famous for its paddy fields as well as the wine, which is produced on-site in a hightech winery and from 35 hectares of neatand-tidy vineyards. Seasonal wine tastings cost just €3.50pp for two wines of your choice, or €7 for four wines. herdadedacomporta.pt

COUNTRYSIDE Surrounded by seven lush hectares of secluded estate, Comporta Sublime, a contemporary country house and spa, is a beacon of understated elegance. White and grey tones contrast with rich wood textures; the restaurant serves innovative and mostly organic food, while the outdoor pool is ripe for a dip. Rooms from €250. sublimecomporta.pt

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RID

BEACHY Feel sand between your toes at Casas na Areia, which, while not being on any beachfront, has actual sand on the living-room floor. Representing Portugal at the 2010 Venice Biennale of Architecture, what started as a project for a weekend house ended up being four separate cottages made from local materials. From €600 per day for up to eight people. casasnaareia.com

FAMILIES The location of Comporta Village on the natural reserve of Sado Estuary is unbeatable. This threestar aparthotel is good for those not wanting to eat out every night, has bright rooms, fully-equipped kitchens, balconies and/or terraces, and an outdoor pool. Apartments from €120 per night for up to two persons sharing, €135 for three, and €145 for four. comportavillage.com

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On Business The Brussels Bounce Why business in the Belgian capital is booming and where to get a slice of the action, plus essential apps, events and more ...

Making travel work for you

Euro Star

As the seat of the European Parliament, Brussels has long been a centre of power, but the cosmopolis is now attracting a new influx of expats and start-ups. Nicholas Lewis reveals its hotspots and hangouts. Photographs by Garry Loughlin.

s many locals, expats and even visiting tourists will tell you, Brussels has come a long way from its reputation as a mere stomping ground for EU officials, lobbyists and corporate executives alike. Indeed, the city best known for leading even Washington DC in the number of embassies (185), diplomats (5,244), lobbyists (over 30,000) and diplomatic missions (285), has grown into more, much more, than just a place where people come for a few meetings and then leave. That was the Brussels of the past, one where the expat community stuck to itself in clustered, closed and, to many, claustrophobic bubbles that did little to meet and mingle with locals and showed practically no interest in their host city. Today, a new breed of expats is moving to Brussels, interested, intrigued and involved. They come to study, work or play and, contrary to earlier times, are here to stay. This has, in turn, brought a renewed sense of optimism, opportunity and

entrepreneurship to the city, with certain neighbourhoods lately emerging as new alternatives to the traditional European district axis of Schuman-Jourdan-Mérode and a slew of Brussels-born-and-bred start-ups making a name for themselves internationally (frontback.me anyone?) As social media consultant Simon Mc Dermot, both a local and an expat, puts it: “Technology incubators are opening up and there will be gentler tax laws so it’d be no surprise if a stronger start-up scene emerges in the next five years.” You read it here first … Although Schuman has been somewhat dethroned by other, more lively and upcoming neighbourhoods, the typically expat-driven district has recently been upping its cool quota with, for example, the opening of Henri & Agnes (48 Rue Véronèse; henrietagnes.com), a neo-canteen that tilts towards the organic. With cosy interiors that make smart use of reclaimed wood, the place fills up at lunchtime with Eurocrats keen to move away, well

away, from the more typical international fare served on Schuman streets to go for something more local. That being said, the Place Flagey area of the commune of Ixelles remains one of Brussels’ most vibrant and varied neighbourhoods. The area’s nexus is still Café Belga (18 Place Eugène Flagey, +32 2 640 3508), a juggernaut of a bar opened close to a decade ago by serial entrepreneur Frederic Nicolai, which enjoys what is commonly agreed to be the city’s best terrace. Le Variétés (4 Place SainteCroix; levarietes.be) – right beside the cultural centre that houses the Brussels Philharmonic, FM Brussel and TV Brussel and which dominates the square – is a classic poultry “rotisserie” with beautiful, vintage-era wood panelling that serves one of the area’s best roasted chicken. Moving along the lakes (an area referred to by locals as “Les Etangs”), the Canterbury (2 Renbaanlaan; lecanterbury. be) has been a local institution for as long as I can remember. Owned by the Niels

PIT STOP

family, who also collect contemporary Belgian art which they display in their many, beloved restaurants, this restaurant serves the city’s best “Américain” (an absolute must, which you can also enjoy downtown, at Aux Vieux St Martin; auvieuxsaintmartin. be) and is a favourite for the neighbourhood’s many lawyers, bankers and diplomats. It’s also known to be Belgian film director and actor Benoît Poelvoorde’s favourite restaurant. Moving up towards Avenue Louise, Japanese-fusion eatery Kokuban (53-55 Rue Vilain XIIII, +32 2 611 0622) is the place to go to for a quick and quality lunch in the area (although it also serves dinner). In the words of private banker Pierre Tshidimba, “nice food and quick service. Excellent place for a tasty back-to-back lunch between two other meetings.” If you’re looking to taste one of the menu’s musts, I highly recommend

Rev up the excitement with a visit to Circuit de SpaFrancorchamps for this year’s Belgian Grand Prix (August 21-23; spafrancorchamps.be)

Above, independent professionals and entrepreneurs are welcomed with open arms at The Workshop Café.

the gyoza or even its karaage ramen. In the same kind of “let’s try something different” spirit, King Kong (227 Chaussée de Charleroi; kingkong.me) is one of the city’s most recent and exciting arrivals. Based on Peruvian street food, it has conquered the city’s masses with its exquisite sandwiches and burgers that come served in King Kong’s signature wrapping paper. If you’re looking for a place to refill, recharge and download your emails, The Workshop Café (146 Avenue Louise; +32 2 647 7793) is, as its name suggests, the ideal place to do so. Serving both hot and cold drinks as well as a variety of light foods, the outpost was one of the first in the neighbourhood to welcome independent professionals and entrepreneurs with open arms, giving them free Wi-Fi access whilst others were still toying with what passwords to choose. Barely a fiveminute walk from The Workshop Café, Chez Odette (25 Rue du

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Châtelain; chez-odette.com) is a boutique hotel that also houses a bar and a restaurant favoured by the neighbourhood’s locals for its understated bling. It is also known as somewhat of a party den, with doors often closing to the public for private parties. A few minutes away, Rouge Tomate (190 Avenue Louise; rougetomate.com) offers fine Italian cuisine with just enough space left between the tables to allow for hushhush client meetings. It also has a garden – a rather rare occurrence on Avenue Louise – that is a paradise to have lunch in once the sun comes out. Still in the Italian arena and still in the neighbourhood, Dolce Amaro (115 -117 Chaussée de Charleroi; dolceamaro.be) is more of a business class-type restaurant. Here waiters greet you with the customary “Buongiorno” and guide you through the menu with big gestures. Closer to town, in the Louise district, meat-specialist Le Colonel (24 Rue Jean Stas; colonelbrussels. com) is the latest address, together with Jack O’Shea Chophouse (32 Rue Sainte-Catherine; jackoshea.com) further downtown, to woo the city’s carnivorous communities. With a purist ethos and razor-sharp focus

Anticlockwise from above, Brussels skyline; Lefèvre Pierre, founder of King Kong restaurant; the landmark Atomium; Olivia Davila at neocanteen Henri & Agnes, and the majestic Belga Queen.

on produce and provenance, both outposts cater to an ever-growing class of connoisseurs who want to see and choose their cut before eating it. Move uptown towards Porte de Namur and pass the luxury storelined Avenue de la Toison d’Or, the quaint and charming hotel that is Hotel Le Berger (24 Rue du Berger; lebergerhotel.be) sits as somewhat of an oddity in the colourful neighbourhood of Matonge and is a classy outpost favoured by visiting favo bu business folk in se search of a room wi with character. Make your way downtown, do and Le Brigittines, Les cl to Gare close de la Chapelle an the cultural and centre Recyclart (recyclart.be), is clie to” says Base “perfect to take clients Design founder Dimitri Jeurissen. Although its atmosphere might seem a bit stuffy, this is where you’ll get a feel for the Brussels of yesterday. Slightly more upper-class and showy, Kwint (kwintbrussels.com) is a restaurant that sits atop Monts des Arts, right beside Brussels’ Royal Library. It’s your classic power-lunch spot, with both media executives (the country’s largest free daily newspaper, Metro, has its offices

around the corner) and cultural elites (the fine arts centre Bozar – bozar.be – is down the road) adopting it as their local. Move further towards town, past the magnificent Grand Place, and you’ll reach the city’s finest hotel. A five-star part of the Rocco Forte collection (of which London’s Brown Hotel is also a member), Hotel Amigo (1 Rue de l’Amigo; roccofortehotels.com) offers pristine and perfect luxury stays for visiting heads of state and corporate titans alike. What’s more, the hotel’s restaurant, Ristorante Bocconi, is one of the city’s finest Italians. If you’re looking for a place to have a drink in the neighbourhood, check out Le Fontainas (91 Rue du Marché au Charbon, +32 2 503 3112) which, on Sundays, organises a cool brunch and DJ sessions. For one last dinner with a wow effect, head to Belga Queen (32 Wolvengracht; belgaqueen.be), a restaurant serving traditional Belgian dishes, housed in a former bank and whose bar (reputed for its selection of whiskies and cognacs) is nestled deep down in the vaults. Follow Nicholas @N_LWS

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BRUSSELS DAILY AND FROM CORK TWICE PER WEEK.

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BUSINESS | TRAVEL

Get your Bearings

AUX VIEUX ST MARTIN A busy Brussels institution thanks to classic Belgian cuisine and a people-watching terrrace. auxvieux saintmartin.be

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Illustrator Steve McCarthy shows us whereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s good to eat in the Belgian capital.

KING KONG Peruvian fast food, serving sambos with a difference, and with sides of yuca fries and quinoa salads. Wash it down with a Pisco Sour. kingkong.me

KOKUBAN Contemporary Japanese restaurant, with generous portions, prompt service, and daily specials â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a lunchtime hit. +32 2 611 0622

BUSINESS | TRAVEL

Smart Traveller MUNICH

STYLISH STAYS IN ROME …

“Munich is great for business because … With a relatively new airport, the always-efficient German railway system – and the über-fast German autobahns – no matter what transport system you use, it is quick and easy to get into the city centre. Best for meetings … The Charles Hotel (28 Sophienstrasse, +49 89 544 5550; roccofortehotels.com) is next to the city’s Botanical Garden. Before or after meetings I always take a walk around the gardens to refocus. Best for lunch te meetings … A favourite is Königsquelle (2 Baaderplatz, +49 89 220 071; koenigsquelle. com), a local hotspot with great traditional dishes.. Prices are reasonable and the wiener schnitzel is very good. Also, the stylish Japanese restaraurant KOI (1 Wittelsbacherplatz, +49 89 8908 1926; koi-restaurant.de). Best for business drinks … Whether you are looking to bring a client or your team out for drinks, Schumann’s Bar (6 Odeonsplatz, +49 89 229 060; schumanns.de) serves the best cocktails in Munich. Getting around … I always use public transport in Germany. The ticketing system can be a bit complicated, so I reco recommend

buy buying a one-day travel pass for zones one and two. zo Best business hotel hotel … Cortiina Ho Hotel (8 Ledererstrasse, + 49 89 24 242 2490; cortiina.com) is very ce central and with such friendly Top, Old Town staff, it has become a home away Hall, Munich. from home for me. Above, Fiona Tipping … I typically budget five O'Brien from per cent for meals and ten for Lenovo. drinks, except at Oktoberfest when everything is more expensive and you should be prepared to tip more. Online … You can usually find free Wi-Fi on all the major squares, but be prepared to pay for access in hotels. Essential travel apps … I use the Aer Lingus app (aerlingus.com) for check-in and to keep track of my schedule. I also love Uber (uber.com), which takes the pain out of finding a “I can’t trav travel ra rave without … My ThinkPad X1 go taxi firm. good Carbon. The he battery life is great so I still For downtime … I love have enough enoug oug power at the end of a day the Deutsches Museum to Skype my little boy at (1 Museumsinsel, +49 home.” Lenovo ThinkPad 89 21791; deutschesX1 Carbon Ultrabook from museum.de), the world’s €1,599.99 €1 €1,599 from lenovo.com largest science and technology museum.”

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MR & MRS SMITH

In her roles as Ireland country manager and sales operations director (EMEA) at Lenovo, Germanophile Fiona O’Brien’s favourite cities to visit are Stuttgart, Frankfurt and Berlin – but especially Munich.

CASACAU Just steps from the Trevi fountain, this palazzo turned vintage-inspired hotel offers five one-bedroom apartments complete with kitchenettes, 1960s-inspired décor, art prints and free Wi-Fi. One apartment even has a mini sauna. Nice. (94 Via in Arcione, +39 06 6929 0159; casacau.com)

NERVA Nestled between the Colosseum and Piazza Venezia, boutique hotel Nerva couldn’t be more central. Wi-Fi is free throughout, continental breakfast is included and it’s a fiveminute stroll to the retail therapy mecca of Via Del Corso. (3 Via Tor de'Conti, +39 06 678 1835; hotelnerva.com)

D.O.M. Hidden away from the usual tourist hubs, this five-star hotel has a modern aristocratic air, thanks to velvet headboards, design pieces and works of art and a speakeasystyle bar that’s hard to resist for a nightcap. The sunny roof terrace, above, is also a plus (131 Via Giulia, +39 06 683 2144; domhotelroma.com).

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Business

Three Dates for Your Diary…

Business Planning Workshop, Dublin, August 18 Led by InterTradeIreland’s Drew O’Sullivan, a former venture capital fund manager, this free business planning workshop at the Grand Canal Hotel aims to help early stage businesses develop successful business plans. Using the licensed ‘Business Cube’ methodology, the workshop will guide entrepreneurs and managers on topics including defining your product/service and financing the business. intertradeireland.com

ClickZ Live, San Francisco, August 10-12 Covering the latest digital marketing tips, tricks and tools for strategic marketing campaigns, ClickZ Live offers an intensive training day as well as expert speakers including Lauri Baker, VP Brand Strategy, at The Huffington Post and John Yembrick, social media manager at NASA. clickzlive.com/sanfrancisco

Summer in the City, London, August 14-16 An annual gathering for anyone interested in YouTube, Summer in the City at London Excel, right, brings together content creators and brands. Through talks, panels and meet and greets with industry professionals, the event aims to give the inside scoop on engaging with viewers and how brands and YouTube ‘stars’ can work together. sitc-event.co.uk

Appy Travels

Whatever crops up on your travels, these health and wellbeing apps are a helping hand for looking after your body and mind on the go … DIRECTORY ZocDoc Essential for anyone visiting the US, ZocDoc is a one-stop healthcare shop that points you in the direction of your nearest healthcare professional, from GP to dermatologist, and lets you read reviews from previous patients and book appointments – no phone calls needed. zocdoc.com

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NUTRITION MyFitnessPal Keep tabs on what late night airport snacks and room service meals you tuck into with this useful calorie counter and nutritional app, which boasts a food database of over five million foods. The food diary feature is one way to avoid coming home with excess baggage around your waistline. myfitnesspal.com

MEDITATION Headspace Mindfulness works wonders for anxiety and stress, as well as helping productivity, and Headspace is a great meditation app for beginners. Listen to the app wherever you are and download sessions to use offline on the plane. Best of all, it only takes ten minutes a day. headspace.com

Light Relief Need entertaining inbetween taking hotel-room conference calls? Levitating by the power of magnets, the Air2 (pronounced ‘Air Squared’) Floating Speakers come equipped with a microphone, micro-USB port for charging, and Bluetooth for up to 12 hours of play time. $179.99, from Amazon.com

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Business

HOTEL REVIEW

Rest Assured Niamh Wade finds London’s hip Hospital Club, near buzzy Covent Garden, is in rude health. Formerly St Paul’s Hospital – hence the name – The Hospital Club is a private members club-cum-boutique hotel near Covent Garden. It is also the brainchild of Dave Stewart, of Eurythmics fame and the American entrepreneur Paul Allen – which largely explains its tagline: Create, Connect, Collaborate. Its seven floors comprise a TV studio, an art gallery, bars, restaurants, a film screening room, a performance space, an events club – and 15 individually designed rooms curated and embellished by local emerging artists. Ranging in size, these stylish boltholes are decked out in warm-hued woods, velvet, leather and stained glass, with modern bathrooms stocked with Ren toiletries. Fans of Fifty Shades of Grey, meanwhile, may be pleased to

find The Key to Pleasure in the suites – a mini bar with a difference … The Little Book of Creativity is perched on an in-room drinks tray; Wi-Fi is first-class and, if you’re still bedroombound at 7pm, enjoy a complimentary cocktail from the turndown trolley. Rooms from £180. (24 Endell Street, +44 207 170 9400; thehospitalclub.com)

Hip décor, as well as its broadcasting and events facilities, are a magnet for media types.

4 Nearby Noshes ...

Sticks‘n’Sushi Sophisticated and scrumptious Danish-born fare. Man Food, Mixed Emotions and Green Keeper are just some of the creative names on the menu, which doesn’t just serve raw fish – grilled meat skewers are also popular. Sip on the Nippon for a refreshing burst of bubbles. (11 Henrietta Street, +44 203 141 8810; sticksnsushi.com)

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Crusting Pipe There’s nothing crusty about this wine bar, except the bread served alongside an impressive cheese selection. It also offers vintage port, adding character to the Victorian-style décor. Try the deep-fried squid and sit outside for atmospheric surrounds. (27 The Market, Covent Garden, +44 207 836 1415; davy.co.uk)

Koshari Street For healthy vegetarian food on the go, try this Egyptian eatery. Think rice, lentils and vermicelli covered with chickpeas, caramelised onions and a spicy tomato sauce. There’s also a daily choice of salads such as white tabbouleh, mixed bean, detox tahini and quinoa. (56 St Martin’s Lane, +44 207 836 1056; kosharistreet.com)

Rock & Sole Plaice This “chippie” has been perfecting the batter for more than 140 years and, unlike many takeaways, there’s seating over two floors and an outside spot to savour the flavour – or at least relax until the chipcoma subsides. (47 Endell Street, +44 207 836 3785; rockandsoleplaice.com)

DiD you know maNy of the IroN balcoNIes oN

Dublin’s GeorGian builDinGs were installeD for Queen Victoria’s visit in 1900 N o b o dy k N ow s I r I s h p r o p e r t y l I k e l I s N e y a N d t h at ’ s w h y w e g e t b e t t e r s a l e s r e s u lt s f o r o u r c l I e N t s . a l w ay s .

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BELFAST 29-33 Montgomery Street, Belfast BT1 4NX. T: +44-2890-501 501 property@lisney-belfast.com

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Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT ROBERT FINNEGAN CEO, THREE IRELAND

has been at the helm of the company since its launch in 2005. A qualified accountant, Finnegan previously worked for Hutchison Whampoa in Hong Kong for 13 years where he served as CEO of its beverage division, Watson’s – a 3,000-employee company with an annual turnover of $200 million. Here he shares some of his working wisdom.

Always look for solutions to problems. See the road to success as a journey – if the road is blocked, find another road. There will be bumps along the way but never give up. Believe in yourself – if you don’t, no one else will.

Take responsibility. This is the most underrated characteristic for successful leadership. Whether the CEO of a company or the captain of Man Utd, you are responsible for the team’s successes and its challenges. And after that, say well done to people – it’s important to recognise the achievements of the team around you.

Success is not a destination you can get on a plane and go to. For me the factors behind anyone’s success are not a secret or a magic formula. The combination of hardwork, dedication and an absolute desire to succeed or, in some cases, the fear of failure will, I believe, lead you to success.

Accept scrutiny. In any high-profile position you are answerable to customers and stakeholders alike, so always listen and see how you can solve any problems. Take a composed and reasonable approach.

Lose self-doubt. While I have encountered challenges, remaining positive and focusing on finding a solution has allowed me to overcome them. As a leader you must inspire confidence and lead by example.

I put a lot of my success down to what I learnt in Hong Kong. When I was there I learnt a huge amount about working life and was constantly inspired by my surroundings, the culture and the people. I will always have a soft-spot for East Asia.

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Flying with Aer Lingus

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

140 Welcome aboard 141 Your comfort and safety 144 Aer Lingus News 156 Flight Connections 160 Our Route Networks 164 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 146 Movies to North America 147 Movies from North America 148 Our Classic Movie Selection 151 Television On Demand 154 Radio On Demand 155 Music On Demand

Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

h words Useful Iris ses and phra e Welcom

Why not try speaking a few words e of the native languag while you are visiting

Ireland! Fáilte ello Dia dhuit H ill Goodbye Slán go fó e is... o m My nam ...is a inm d you? tú? How are á t a s a n o C ood ma ith I’m g Tá mé go eers Sláinte! Ch hank you a ith agat T m h ib ra o G me céal Excuse s h it le o m Gabh

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.

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What cities do Aer Lingus fly to and connect to?

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A SS IS TA N CE

If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your ur booking reference number.

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Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device. You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used. Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

On A330 aircraft, to avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, devices must be switched off flight mode once advised that it is safe to do so by crew.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

ARE YOU READY FOR TAKE-OFF AND LANDING? 

Is your mobile phone and/or other portable electronic device in 'flight mode'?



Is your seatback fully upright?



Is your armrest down?



Is your tabletop stowed?



Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

ON Airplane

Mode

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting. If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

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Your comfort and safety

KEEP MOVING

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:



Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.



Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another passenger (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.



Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a passenger on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. Similarly, behaviour or language towards other passengers or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

Airbus 330-

200

For your Safety

Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do

Please do

not remov

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not remov

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Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and to reduce jet lag.

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

ON Airplane Mode

DRINK UP

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane

Mode

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

EYE CARE If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

TIME ZONES Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone more quickly.

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AUGUST 2015

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Aer Lingus News

Due to strong demand, Aer Lingus has added extra transatlantic flights to the USA next year for St Patrick’s Day and the Easter Holidays. A growing need for services to Washington DC from Dublin has led to the extension of the airline’s schedule and the early resumption of flights for spring/ summer 2016. As part of the summer programme, flights will recommence on March 14, with four services per week on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sundays. Flights between Dublin and Toronto will continue to operate throughout the winter with three flights weekly on Monday, Wednesday

and Fridays. Extra flights have been added over the Easter holidays on March 19 and 26, with an additional 700 seats available for sale. Moreover, Aer Lingus has added extra seats on flights between Dublin and Chicago with an additional 1,000 seats available over St Patrick’s Day and the Easter holidays.

NEVER BEAN BETTER Got an early morning flight? No bother – Aer Lingus has the perfect caffeine-hit solution. Ireland’s premier coffee roaster, Java Republic, has been announced as the new on-board coffee supplier to Aer Lingus for short-haul routes, including European destinations. Heralding the union of two of Ireland’s leading brands, from June 2015 all Aer Lingus guests can avail of freshly brewed Java Republic filter coffee as part of Aer Lingus’ on

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board bia menu. Bringing real quality to the in-flight offering, each individual cup contains freshly ground coffee that has been sealed in the bottom for freshness. It is then brewed for each customer, offering an unrivalled coffee experience onboard. Java Republic is the original Irish handroaster and prides itself on expertise in delivering a superior taste every time. Rise and shine! Aoife Gath and Bronagh Fox present a welcome hit of Java Republic coffee.

Above, the hot hangout that is Toronto. Right, in Chicago, Anish Kapoor's famous Cloud Gate sculpture aka "The Bean".

DAN GOLDBERG

INCREASED LINKS TO THE USA

Appy Days

Aer Lingus’ chief commercial officer Mike Rutter with Blue Insurance MD Ciaran Mulligan.

BLUE SKY THINKING Aer Lingus is delighted to announce a new partnership with Blue Insurance, an Irish multi-award winning insurance provider. Aer Lingus Insurance is available to purchase via aerlingus. com and aerlingusinsurance. com for all guests originating in Republic of Ireland and the United Kingdom. Aer Lingus Insurance now offers a range of comprehensive and competitively priced travel insurance products from as little as €9.56, tailored to

the individuals’ needs. The range of products available to purchase includes: Gadget Insurance from €1.49 per month, Pet Insurance from €69, and Wedding Insurance from €73. Cover for travellers who are over 65 years old is also available. In addition, Aer Lingus’ existing partner, Allianz Insurance, offers competitively priced travel insurance which can be booked during the online flight booking stage on aerlingus.com

Aer Lingus will soon on launch an an allnew exciting and personalised web and mobile experience. ence. Whether travelling for business or pleasure, guests can explore our entire travel network by destination, budget or interest, planning and booking trips with ease. Be it on desktop, tablet or mobile device, it will be super-easy to find the best fares, create your own profile based on previous trips, and securely save all your personal, companion and payment information. With our newly designed boarding passes and passbook options the entire travel experience will become a lot more seamless. A delightful online experience awaits ...

The new Airbus A350 XWB receives a warm welcome from crew at Dublin Airport.

A flying visit from A350 XWB Last month, Richard Burton TD, the minister for jobs, enterprise and innovation announced that AerCap – a global leader in aviation leasing, with operations in Dublin and Shannon – has created more than 100 new, highly-skilled jobs in Ireland. To mark the expansion, the new Airbus A350 XWB was flown into Dublin from Toulouse, touching down in Ireland for the first time. Aer Lingus is scheduled to take delivery of nine A350s in the coming years, with the first delivery of three aircraft scheduled for 2018.

TEMPLE STREET TLC Families with sick children in Temple Street Hospital can now make use of a new garden retreat thanks to the help of Aer Lingus employees. Last month, more than 100 Aer Lingus colleagues donated a day of their time to help build Hugh’s Garden, a special retreat for families of sick children attending Temple Street Hospital. Using materials donated by Aer Lingus,

the garden features a “Bug Hotel”, fairy doors, a swing in the shape of a bird’s nest, a tree wall feature, a miniature library and bird boxes. All of this would not have been completed without the help of colleagues from across the company who came together to complete the garden in a single day. The garden is officially now open to families at the hospital. AUGUST 2015

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Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action Avengers: Age of Ultron 141 mins

PG13

When Tony Stark tries to jumpstart a dormant peacekeeping program, things go awry and Earth‘s Mightiest Heroes, including Iron Man, Captain America, Thor, the Incredible Hulk, Black Widow and Hawkeye, are put to the ultimate test. It is up to the Avengers to stop the villainous Ultron enacting his terrible plans. Stars Robert Downey Jr, Chris Evans. EN FR DE IT ES

Comedy

Action

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

Documentary

Drama

The Longest Ride

119 mins Beatrice Prior must fight against a powerful alliance. Stars Shailene Woodley, Ansel Elgort, Theo James

100 mins A millionaire gets prepped for life behind bars. Stars Will Ferrell, Kevin Hart, Alison Brie

87 mins An uptight cop and an outgoing widow join forces. Stars Reese Witherspoon, Sofía Vergara, Matthew Del Negro

Kurt Cobain: R Montage of Heck

Far From the Madding Crowd

132 mins A documentary on the late musician Kurt Cobain. Stars Aaron Burckhard, Don Cobain, Jenny Cobain

119 mins An independent woman attracts three different suitors. Stars Carey Mulligan, Matthias Schoenaerts

139 mins The lives of a young couple intertwine with an older man. Stars Scott Eastwood, Britt Robertson, Alan Alda

EN FR DE IT ES

Insurgent

Get Hard

PG13

Hot Pursuit

Drama

Kids G

General

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

The Water Diviner

True Story

Woman In Gold

Home

111 mins A man travels to Turkey to find his missing sons. Stars Russell Crowe, Olga Kurylenko, Jai Courtney

99 mins A reporter plays a game of cat-and-mouse with a murderer. Stars James Franco, Jonah Hill, Felicity Jones

110 mins A woman tries to regain a painting stolen by the Nazis. Stars Helen Mirren, Ryan Reynolds, Daniel Brühl

96 mins An alien and an adventurous girl form a friendship. Stars Jim Parsons, Rihanna, Steve Martin

EN FR DE IT ES

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AUGUST 2015

Shaun the Sheep Movie

EN PG13

85 mins A sheep makes it all the way to the big city. Stars Justin Fletcher, John Sparkes, Omid Djalili EN

FR DE IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky! Action

Fast and Furious 7

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

Sci-Fi Tomorrowland 130 mins

A former boy-genius Frank, jaded by disillusionment, and Casey, a bright, optimistic teen, embark on a danger-filled mission to unearth the secrets of an enigmatic place somewhere in time and space known only as ‘Tomorrowland‘. What they must do there changes the world and them forever. Stars George Clooney, Britt Robertson, Hugh Laurie. EN FR DE IT ES

Comedy

PG13

Paul Blart: Mall Cop 2

Drama

137 mins Deckard Shaw seeks revenge for his comatose brother. Stars Vin Diesel, Paul Walker, Dwayne Johnson

94 mins A mall cop finds danger even on vacation. Stars Kevin James, Raini Rodriguez, Eduardo Verástegui

EN FR DE IT ES

The Cobbler

PG13

The Duff

PG13

99 mins A man gains the ability to step into the lives of others. Stars Elli, Adam Sandler, Adam B Shapiro

101 mins A student challenges the social order in school. Stars Mae Whitman, Bella Thorne, Robbie Amell

Drama

While We‘re Young

Child 44

137 mins A military police officer investigates murders. Stars Tom Hardy, Gary Oldman, Noomi Rapace

97 mins A middle-aged couple have their lifestyle shaken up. Stars Ben Stiller, Naomi Watts, Adam Driver EN

Kids G

General

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

Run All Night

The Age of Adaline

PG13

114 mins A criminal has to figure out where his loyalties lie. Stars Liam Neeson, Ed Harris, Joel Kinnaman

112 mins A young woman is rendered ageless after an accident. Stars Blake Lively, Michiel Huisman, Harrison Ford

EN FR DE IT ES

The Gunman

115 mins A sniper kills the minister of mines of the Congo. Stars Sean Penn, Idris Elba, Jasmine Trinca

Tinker Bell and the Legend of the NeverBeast

76 mins A fairy must rally support to save her unlikely friend. Stars Ginnifer Goodwin, Mae Whitman EN

Song of the Sea

EN PG

93 mins A magical little girl goes on an adventure. Stars David Rawle, Brendan Gleeson, Lisa Hannigan

FR DE IT SP

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

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We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America. Timeless favourites such as Ice Age and The Godfather are available as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.

Our Classic Movie Selection

All The President’s Men

138 mins Stars Robert Redford

Annie Hall

93 mins Stars Woody Allen, Diane Keaton

Marvel’s PG13 The Avengers

Million Dollar Baby

Any Given Sunday

162 mins Stars Al Pacino, Dennis Quaid

Night at the Museum

Sherlock Holmes

143 mins Stars Robert Downey Jr, Chris Evans

132 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Hilary Swank

108 mins Stars Ben Stiller, Carla Gugino

128 mins Stars Robert Downey Jr, Jude Law

EN FR DE IT ES

The Great Gatsby

PG13

143 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan

The Hangover

100 mins Stars Zach Galifianakis, Bradley Cooper

EN FR DE IT ES

The Secret Of Kells

75 mins Stars Evan McGuire, Brendan Gleeson

EN FR DE IT ES

143 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Jennifer Connelly

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

Blood Diamond

The Wedding Singer

Diary of a Wimpy Kid

94 mins Stars Zachary Gordon, Robert Capron EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

The Descendants

Ice Age

EN FR DE IT ES

175 mins Stars Marlon Brando, Al Pacino

EN FR DE IT ES

95mins Stars Adam Sandler

131 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Gene Hackman, Morgan Freeman

EN FR DE IT ES

X-Men

104 mins Stars Patrick Stewart, Hugh Jackman, Ian McKellen

In America

PG13

105 mins Stars Paddy Considine, Samantha Morton EN FR DE IT ES

The Godfather

115 mins Stars George Clooney, Shailene Woodley

Unforgiven

88 mins Stars Denis Leary, John Leguizamo

The Godfather: Part II

The Godfather: Part III

PG13

162 mins Al Pacino, Diane Keaton

145 mins Stars Will Smith, Bill Pullman EN

200 mins Stars Al Pacino, Robert De Niro

PG13

Independence Day PG13

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

128 mins Stars Chadwick Boseman, TR Knight,

(500) Days of Summer

PG13

95 mins Stars Zooey Deschanel

EN FR DE IT ES

Somewhere PG Down The Line

The Missing Scarf 7 mins Stars George Takei

12 mins Stars Matthew Burke, Matthew Dillon

Irish Shorts and Features

A Nightingale Falling

PG13

Cutting Grass

110 mins Stars Tara Breathnach

13 mins Stars John Hannah, Karl Rice, Scott Graham

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AUGUST 2015

Deadly

9 mins Stars Peter Coonan, Brenda Fricker EN

Get Up and Go

Inside Lennon Davis

90 mins Stars Peter Coonan, Killian Scott

6 mins Stars Hilary Bowen-Walsh, Lisa Keegan

10 mins Stars Michael McGrath, Kevin Mooney

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We are now open in New York City. Find us @ 70 West 36th Street, between 5th & 6th Avenue. McGettigan’s - Proud History, Bright Future

contact@mcgettigans.com

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A totally unique theatrical performance telling the story of the Irish from their very beginning to the present “Captivating and Hugely Entertaining”. Experience 9,000 years of Irish cultural triumphs, feel their defiance as they fight against near annihilation and watch them rise up from their cultural ashes... “Deeply Moving”. This innovative production allows the audience to walk through each scene with a mythical guide who tells the 10,000 year story. info@storyoftheirish.ie www.storyoftheirish.ie

Location: Smithfield, Dublin 7 Hop On/Off Bus - Jameson Distillery Stop

Show/Tours Start Every 15 Mins Duration 80 Mins

Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes. Business

Eye to Eye

This month, Bloomberg takes you behind the scenes of the world‘s biggest healthcare products company, Johnson & Johnson. We talk to the CEO about the company‘s strategy to expand in emerging markets. Also from Bloomberg are Eye to Eye, featuring footwear designer, Christian Louboutin and CSuite, looking at the marketing strategy of Domino‘s pizza. Meanwhile, EuroNews bring us Business Planet, Real Economy and Science – all of which cast a cold eye over economics, technology and scientific developments.

Documentary

On a River in Ireland

Tune into Super Senses to explore the extraordinary sense of smell that some animals possess. Also available are Bullit, featuring the life of legendary DJ, Steve Lawler, National Geographic‘s Megafactories and Cosmos: A Space Odyssey, hosted by astrophysicist, Neil DeGrasse Tyson. Tune into On a River in Ireland, which follows Colin Stafford-Johnson as he travels on the river Shannon, or Tracks and Trails featuring novelist and broadcaster Manchán Magan.

Drama Comedy

As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of Fargo, The Walking Dead and Mad Men on offer, as well as multiple episodes from the highly acclaimed series, Game of Thrones and a return to fan favourites, The Sopranos and The Wire.

Lifestyle

Kitchen Hero

Enjoy highlights of the Big Apple as John Fitzpatrick, CEO of Fitzpatrick Hotels North America, invites us to explore his quintessentially Irish hotel and his version of New York in the TV short, Fitzpatrick Hotels New York. For more on Irish culture, food and music, tune into Other Voices, Tracks and Trails, Kitchen Hero with Donal Skehan and Living the Wildlife, in which Colin Stafford-Johnson takes his journey to Wicklow, where he meets local birdwatcher Dick Coombs. In this month‘s episode of Video Killed the Radio Star we meet Simple Minds frontman Jim Kerr. Also available are Pawn Stars, The Art Of Sushi, Project Runway All Stars and Jamie's Comfort Food.

Sport

Kids Togetherness

Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a culturally defining series. Now, with four consecutive Emmy Awards for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family returns with Season 6. Two episodes are available on board your Aer Lingus flight. Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate two new episodes of It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia. Also on board are multiple episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Girls and Togetherness.

News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

HSBC: Golfing World 2015

Marvel‘s Avengers Assemble

Kids will surely enjoy Learn To Draw – an educational drawing show, presented by cartoonist Øistein Kristiansen, that demonstrates new techniques and gives inspiration to get kids drawing! Kids may also enjoy the charming animated series Pip Ahoy! or an episode of Rocka-Bye Island. Teens may enjoy Austin and Ally, a sitcom about a young internet celebrity or Marvel‘s Avengers Assemble starring some much-loved comic characters.

Sports fans shouldn‘t miss World Wide Sports, which features a selection of interviews and highlights, focusing on the drama, passion and dedication of top-level sports professionals. Also on board are Sporting Rivalries: South Africa vs New Zealand (a must-watch for rugby fans!), The Fast Lane for those with an interest in motorsport, and HSBC: Golfing World 2015.

AUGUST 2015

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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets

OU R V TOP TICE CHO

Fargo SEASON 1 The announcement of Fargo, the series, caused consternation – why besmirch the legacy of a much-loved Coen brothers classic? And on the surface, it seems like a pointless exercise – same nebbishy lead, same supporting cast of criminal misfits, same frozen location. Another bleakly comic, snow-sunk Midwestern gothic. But the antic morality at the centre of the Coens’ original film is more or less absent. Instead, we’re dealing with something closer to the

reigning spirit of today’s TV drama – violence, nihilism, and a whole lot of anti-heroic behaviour. This might be because the TV format provides fewer opportunities for the Coen’s trademark narrative non-sequiturs, as every seemingly superfluous detail is a possible lead for a future twist. Since this is only Season 1, we don’t really have to worry about that stuff just yet. It’s enough to just sit back and marvel at the well-wrought drama of each episode.

The characters are compellingly drawn, on the thrilling border between verisimilitude and caricature, especially Billy Bob Thornton’s Lorne Malvo. (“There are no saints in the animal kingdom,” he says, “just breakfast and dinner.”) In fact, the most pertinent Coen comparison isn’t with Fargo – it’s with No Country For Old Men, their 2007 Cormac McCarthy adaptation. We wait on tenterhooks for a second season that’s set to rival Breaking Bad.

A crime drama television series with a twist of black comedy

The Walking Dead SEASON 5 That The Walking Dead even managed to stumble to a fifth season is a testament to the show’s quality. Since the very first episode, a sort of zombie apocalypse has been taking place behind the scenes. Cast and crew infighting, budgeting problems and a revolving door of show runners led to several near-cancellations – still the show remains, acclaim piling up faster than the bodies of the dispatched undead. The Walking Dead follows a formula familiar to zombie

movie fans – cross-section of American society forms fragile peripatetic community while fleeing the victims of vicious zombifying plague, etc. In the model of films like 28 Days Later, the zombies (called ‘walkers’) can run, and fast. Unlike most zombie movies, though, there’s little hope to sustain the journey – just peaks and troughs of despair. If you’ve watched from the first season, you’ll notice how quickly the show turned from a subtle morality study into a

grave-dark drama of shifting power dynamics. This shift is at its starkest in Season 5. The first episode presents us with a perfect example; when protagonist Rick meet a priest, Fr Gabriel, he is instantly suspicious when the man insists that he has never killed anyone, human or walker. Cynical pessimism is the only reasonable response to the world of The Walking Dead. The stakes can only rise as we lurch towards the show’s penultimate season.

A gritty drama portrays life in the weeks and months following a zombie apocalypse

Mad Men SEASON 7 In the first half of its final season, Mad Men’s future finally arrives. It’s been the show’s guiding tension since the very first episode – when will the 1960s hit? And not just the rock music, drugs and tie-dyes, the familiar counter cultural wallpaper of representations of that era; the 1960s was also the decade of One-Dimensional Man and ‘The Medium Is The Message,’ the birth pangs of both today’s corporate advertising culture and its discontents. Thus, in Season 7, a computer finally arrives in the office.

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AUGUST 2015

Copywriter Michael Ginsberg is threatened by its static, humming efficiency, and loses his marbles in the time-honoured white collar way. Peggy and Don are in competition for the position of alpha personality, a gender dynamic unimaginable in Season 1, and Dawn Chambers, the show’s first major black character, is promoted to personnel director. Like Leopold Bloom, another ad man, Don Draper is privileged to be perched on a protagonist’s plateau,

watching the world below transform itself. But he lacks the crucial self-awareness to follow through, and his appetites degrade, rather than enrich, his experience. By Season 7, even Draper’s mentor Roger Stirling has outstripped him, and the toxic comforts of fat has-beendom are beckoning. It’s up to the second half of Season 7 to show us whether or not he’ll catch up with the world.

A drama series about one of New York‘s most prestigious ad agencies in the 1960s

Location: Smithfield, Dublin 7 Hop On/Off Bus - Jameson Distillery Stop

Show/Tours Start Every 15 Mins Duration 80 Mins

Radio On Demand

TOP R ADIO PICK

Fitzpatrick Hotels

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

Contemporary easy listening from both sides of the Atlantic brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.

INDIE

IRISH

Marty in the Morning

Movies and Musicals

The Hamilton Scores

TXFM‘s Indie Hits

Ceol na nGael

Join Marty Whelan as he takes the chill out of your early mornings with music, news, weather and travel updates from 7–10am, weekday mornings on RTÉ lyric fm.

Movies and Musicals features a broad range of soundtracks from early classics, right through to contemporary scores. Presented by Aedín Gormley.

The Hamilton Scores features George’s superb choice of music to accompany your flight! Broadcast on Saturday mornings from 10am–1pm on RTÉ lyric fm.

TXFM bring us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as Blur and Mumford & Sons. Curated especially for Aer Lingus by TXFM presenter, Claire Beck.

A traditional and folk music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh of RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.

IRISH

KIDS

POETRY

POP

Irish Pulse

Happy Days

Irish Poetry Corner

Chart Hits

Top Ten

Irish Pulse brings you some of the most famous Irish songs in recent history. Listen out for Villagers, We Cut Corners and many more!

Join Emma O’Driscoll in this edition of Happy Days on RTÉjr Radio with songs about flying, exercising during the flight and some fun games that you can play on your journey!

Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets: WB Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith and Oscar Wilde amongst others.

Tune in as Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-tothe-minute pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic!

Weekday evenings you’ll catch ‘The Big Ride Home’ with Dara Quilty on Dublin’s 98FM from 4pm. Dara’s on board right now to count down the top ten songs of the year!

POP

ROCK

Tubridy

Weekend On One

Ryan Tubridy, presents a daily radio programme on RTÉ 2fm. In this programme, especially recorded for Aer Lingus, he plays some of his favourite radio hits.

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AUGUST 2015

The Weekend on One with Cathal Murray airs every Saturday and Sunday morning between 6–8am on RTÉ Radio 1. It features an eclectic mix of music from all genres.

TA L K R A D I O

Nova Irish Classic Rock

Documentary on One

Best of Moncrieff

Celebrate some of our favourite albums, from AC/DC to Zeppelin, with Foo Fighters, Dylan, Bowie, and Oasis. Hosted by Marty Miller from Nova 100FM.

Documentary on One brings you two documentaries. The story of Harry Callan, an Irishman held in captivity during WW2 and the story of Paddy Armstrong, one of the Guilford Four.

Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues. Tune in every weekday 1.30–4.30pm on Newstalk 106–108 FM.

Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums. Why not begin with some of our crew’s favourites below! A L L T I M E FAVO U R I T E S

Al Green

Al Green I‘m Still In Love With You Amy Winehouse Back to Black Billy Joel An Innocent Man Fleetwood Mac Rumours Oasis (What‘s The Story) Morning Glory?

A LT E R N AT I V E

Father John Misty

Father John Misty I Love You, Honeybear Johnny Marr Playland Karen O Crush Songs Morrissey World Peace is None of your Business

E L EC T R O

IRISH

Hot Chip

Hozier

Aphex Twin Syro Basement Jaxx Scars Depeche Mode Sounds of the Universe Hot Chip Why Make Sense (Deluxe Edition) Röyksopp The Inevitable End OPER A

Ensemble Musique Oblique

Andrea Bocelli Aria – The Opera Album Ensemble Musique Oblique Schoenberg Pierrot Lunaire Katherine Jenkins Believe Theatre of Voices & Paul Hillier Lang: The Little Match Girl Passion

Damien Rice My Favourite Faded Fantasy Hozier Hozier (Deluxe Version) Jape This Chemical Sea Sinéad O’Connor I’m not Bossy, I’m the Boss The Coronas The Long Way POP

Passion Pit

Kelly Clarkson Piece By Piece (Deluxe Version) Passion Pit Kindred One Direction Four (Deluxe Version) Sam Smith In the Lonely Hour Taylor Swift 1989 (Deluxe)

CL ASSIC AL

Alice Sara Ott

Alexandre Tharaud Chopin: Journal Alice Sara Ott Chopin Waltzes Benjamin Grosvenor Dances Piotr Anderszewski JS Bach: English Suites Nos 1, 3 & 5 JA Z Z

Charles Mingus

Bill Laurance Flint Charles Mingus The Black Saint and the Sinner Lady GoGo Penguin V2.0 Joe Jackson The Duke Hypnotic Brass Ensemble Fly: The Customs Prelude RNB

Snoop Dog

Action Bronson Mr Wonderful Drake If You’re Reading This it’s Too Late FKA Twigs LP1 Nicki Minaj The Pinkprint (Deluxe) Snoop Dogg Bush

COUNTRY

Dierks Bentley

Angaleena Presley American Middle Class Brantley Gilbert Just as I am Dierks Bentley Riser Ray Price Beauty is... The Final Sessions M E TA L

Slayer

Eluveitie Origins Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Megadeth Th1rt3en Metallica Death Magnetic Motörhead The Wörld is Yours Slayer South of Heaven ROCK

And So I Watch You From Afar

And So I Watch You From Afar Heirs Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds Chasing Yesterday (Deluxe) Robert Plant Lullaby and... The Ceaseless Roar U2 Songs of Innocence AUGUST 2015

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT

DUBLIN

Where are you ﬂying to?

Are your bags checked through to your ﬁnal destination? YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Have all your required forms ﬁlled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staﬀ are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and ﬂight status

Gate Information Screens

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Passport Control and Security Screening

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between ﬂights.

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AUGUST 2015

DEPARTURE GATE

DUBLIN

Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections

Which Terminal are you ﬂying from?

Terminal 1 is connected by a pedestrian link from Terminal 2. For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are ﬂying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening

You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure Lounge

Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your ﬂight is ready for boarding.

Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

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Healy Macâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on P Ramlee in Kuala Lumpur named Best Irish Bar in the World by The Irish Times & Diageo Now open at Breaffy House Hotel Castlebar, Co Mayo

Healy Macâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s multi-award-winning Irish Bar & Restaurant Malaysia . Indonesia . Ireland . Spain (late 2015)

Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information. Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Victoria Seattle

Fargo

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Cedar Rapids

Salt Lake City Omaha Denver

Reno

Grand Rapids

Fort Wayne

Des Moines

Dayton Indianapolis

St Louis

Oakland

San Francisco

Wichita

Las Vegas

Springﬁeld

Oklahoma City

Little Rock

Burbank

Phoenix

Buffalo

Columbus

Boston Martha’s Vineyard

New York

Washington (National)

Hyannis Nantucket

Harrisburg Philadelphia

Washington (Dulles)

Greensboro Richmond

Raleigh–Durham Knoxville

Charlotte Greenville

Memphis Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Baltimore

Burlington Portland ME

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Cleveland

Cincinnati Lexington

Nashville

Tulsa Los Angeles Santa Ana Orange County San Diego

Louisville

Syracuse

Toronto

Detroit

Chicago

Sacramento

Long Beach

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

San Jose

St. John’s

Quebec Duluth

Columbia

Charleston Savannah

Austin

Houston

New Orleans

Jacksonville

Orlando

San Antonio

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)

Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)

Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-Clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland. 160 |

AUGUST 2015

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to five US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

Halifax

Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Isle of Man Liverpool

Dublin

Shannon

Copenhagen

Newcastle

Belfast

Knock

Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands

London (Gatwick)

Southampton

Exeter

Newquay

Berlin

Warsaw

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff

Hamburg Amsterdam

Dusseldorf Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Pula Marseille Nice Bologna

Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Perpignan

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante

Ibiza

Athens Catania

Malaga Faro

Agadir

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Izmir

Our Middle East and Australasia Route Network You can now book flights between Dublin and Abu Dhabi, and have full access to flights across the network beyond Abu Dhabi, to points including Australia, Asia-Pacific, the Indian Subcontinent and the Middle East. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

Bahrain Abu Dhabi Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Aer Lingus routes from Dublin (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways)

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AUGUST 2015

Perth Sydney

Melbourne

U .S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS

Specialists in US immigration law since 1997 • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

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Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals.

OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY AND KILKENNY, IRELAND

New York T: 212 965-1148

Kilkenny T: 056-7767994

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @USVisaExpert MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

Kppm: Specialists in Technical/Engineering and Construction Recruitment in Ireland. Working with all the leading Consulting Engineers, Main Contractors, Architects and Project Management companies in Ireland on Industrial/Hi tech, Commercial mixed use, Residential and specialist projects. If you are looking to relocate to Ireland or for suitable employment in Ireland we are the people to contact. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

ARCHITECTS / ARCHITECTURAL TECHNICIANS BUILDING SERVICES DESIGN ENGINEERS & CAD DESIGNERS REVIT / BIM MODELLERS & CAD TECHNICIANS IES DESIGN ENGINEERS MECHANICAL & ELECTRICAL COORDINATORS CIVIL AND STRUCTURAL DESIGN ENGINEERS & RC DETAILERS PROCESS ENGINEERS AND DESIGNERS PIPING DESIGNERS ELECTRICAL: INSTRUMENT & CONTROL ENGINEERS AND DESIGNERS CONSTRUCTION PROJECT MANAGERS QUANTITY SURVEYORS (M&E) AND QUANTITY SURVEYORS (CSA) PLANNERS / SCHEDULERS AND COST ENGINEERS ESTIMATORS CONTRACTS MANAGERS / CONTRACT ADMINISTRATORS HEALTH & SAFETY ADVISORS AUTOMATION ENGINEERS BMS ENGINEERS PACKAGING ENGINEERS QA/ENGINEERS C&Q ENGINEERS VALIDATION ENGINEERS FACILITIES AND MAINTENANCE ENGINEERS AND MANAGERS FACILITIES AND MAINTENANCE TECHNICIANS

For a free consultation please call Tom Doyle at kppm in Dublin on: +353(0)12932220 or Email: tom@kppm.ie www.kppm.ie

Sinnotts Traditional Irish Bar in the heart of Dublin’s old shopping district. Food Served All Day NHA Irish Sports Bar of theYear 2014 Late Bar & DJ’s Thursday to Saturday

Quote ‘Cara Magazine’ and get 2 for 1 Traditional Irish Stew Sinnotts Traditional Irish Bar, South King Street, (St. Stephens Green), Dublin 2 +353 1 4784698 info@sinnotts.ie www.sinnotts.ie

Staying connected on board* Mobile Network on board

*A330 aircraft only.

Wi-Fi on board On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Connect

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

3 Purchase Internet Access

2 Aeromobile

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a full flight pass.

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

3 Welcome SMS

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

4 Connected You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet.

6 Connected

** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 164 |

AUGUST 2015

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! W ER NE W ES O L R IC P

One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 Full flight pass €14.95 | $18.95

Study Abroad in Dublin: Irish Theatre January Term Irish Theatre Summer Programme Storytelling: Our Great Tradition The Writers Room “There is a certain humility that goes with the acting business in Dublin that I could not have learned elsewhere” Olivia Wilde, former student and star of ‘House M.D’

gaietyschool.com info@gaietyschool.com

Saint Patrick's Cathedral Dublin

Open Daily for Visitors www.stpatrickscathedral.ie or call +353 1 4539472 for details

EXPLORE MORE WITH A UNIQUE RAILTOUR

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63 PARNELL STREET ENNIS IN BENERGY

“An Autobiography written from the heart of America’s pioneering days in Oil, Banking and the Arts.” Masterfully edited to sketch a path from where we were, to where we may be headed. Captures the Magic of Anglo-Irish-America. The Perfect Inspirational Gift! Order Before The Rush!

www.Derricks-of-Destiny.com

Cloghan Castle

Catherine Fulvio’s

Rent your own Castle!

Corporate Team Building & Summer Events at Ballyknocken House & Cookery School, Wicklow www.ballyknocken.com (+)353 (0) 40444627

™

loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way! Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.

Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: info@cloghancastle.com Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group Contact us for our Special Offers: www.cloghancastle.com

Managing parking for businesses and consumers.

It’s convenient cashless parking by: APP

American Restaurant & Bar

A FREE APPETISER for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass Terms and conditions apply

Michelin Bib Gourmand

From Houston, TX to Heuston Dublin ™ is available in 300+ locations across Ireland, the UK & USA. Visit www.parkbytext.com

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock. 12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com

BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie

Scents 6NewBoutique

BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

to Buy in

Choosing a signature fragrance has never been easier.

ave you ever left the house only to realise you forgot to spritz your favourite scent and, as a result, you’re out-of-sorts for the rest of the day? You almost feel naked right? That’s because perfume can do powerful things, like alter the way we feel. Research has shown it can lift our spirits, make us relax, awaken our senses – it can even make us more desirable to the opposite sex. And anyone who’s ever received a compliment from a stranger about the scent t hey’re wearing knows it can make you feel surprisingly beautiful. Here are six of the world’s most stunning scents, all available in the new issue of Boutique.

PACO BY PACO RABANNE, 100ML EDT, ¤21 Invigorating and modern, Paco by Paco Rabanne is a citrus, aromatic scent designed with a contemporary, confident individual in mind. With fresh hints of mandarin orange, lemon and lavender infused with sandalwood, Virginia cedar and Tonka bean, this is a musky scent with a clean, crisp finish.

LANCÔME LA VIE EST BELLE, 30ML EDP, ¤37 La Vie Est Belle is Lancôme’s best-selling scent. A delectable perfume, it’s made with the most precious natural ingredients and is a modern interpretation of an oriental fragrance with a twist. Expect delightful notes of iris, the strength of patchouli and sweet gourmand blends for a scent with depth and complexity.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER LE MALE, 75ML EDT, ¤41 Intensive and warm, masculine and modern, this classic scent contains base notes of sandalwood and vanilla, and a heart of cinnamon, cumin and orange blossom. Thanks to fresh top notes of mint and lavender, this fragrance is both bold and traditional.

DOLCE & GABBANA THE ONE, 50ML EDP, ¤49 Like the woman who wears it, the strength and uniqueness of Dolce & Gabbana The One fragrance comes from contrast. A modern ‘floriental’ eau de parfum, it combines contemporary fruit ingredients with the perfumer’s classic palette of white flowers.

GIORGIO ARMANI SÌ, 30ML EDP, ¤45 Chic, sultry and soft, Sì is a truly beautiful scent – a timeless classic in the making. With notes of blackcurrant, freesia, vanilla, patchouli and blond amber wood, what starts as quite a rich and fruity fragrance soon transforms into something more seductive. This is grown-up and gorgeous.

DAVIDOFF COOL WATER, 40ML EDT, ¤30 This fragrance is renowned for its masculine, sporty scent that is reminiscent of ocean air and powerful waves. With base notes of amber and oak moss, it’s made complete with peppermint, cedar and musk to create a calm, contemporary scent that has stood the test of time.

AUGUST 2015

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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | AUSTRALIA

La Vie en Rose As her year as Ireland’s Rose of a Tralee comes to a close, Philadelphia-born Maria Walsh reflects on her recent eye-opening tour around Australia. ustralia is some 16,000 kilometres away from Ireland and, in recent years, has become home to 70,000 Irish people. As the 2014 ambassador for the International Rose of Tralee Festival, I was fortunate to travel to Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane and Perth in May. This not only offered me travel experiences, it also allowed me to connect with the Irish people who have built, shaped and continue to develop their home away from home. Truth be told, Australia never featured on my bucket list of travelling adventures. But after my three-and-a-half-week exploration, I was disappointed that I hadn’t boarded the plane to go there a long time ago. I have learned within this past year that all stories surrounding adventure contain quintessential characters so it would be remiss of me not to mention my travelling companions: my mother Noreen and my auntie Cathy, who journeyed with me and I couldn’t, and wouldn’t, have enjoyed it to its fullest without them. During our first few days in Melbourne we travelled the Great Ocean Road, met some kangaroos and took a boat trip around the harbour. The city is now a favourite of mine as it offers culture in abundance, and graffiti adds a beautiful edgy feel. But the heart of any place lies within its people, and with more than 400 Irish attendees at the Melbourne 2015

Rose Selection Night, it gave me a wonderful memory. The tour continued on to Sydney. How fascinating it is to stand at Sydney Harbour and see for myself the area that has lit up our television screens every New Year since I was a child. Exploring with the 2014 Sydney Rose Imelda Finnegan, we drove along the coast and in an hour landed at Alf’s Bait Shop. Later in the week we visited the 2005 Darwin Rose Shannon Byrne at her workplace in ABC Studios, and were interviewed to highlight the upcoming Sydney 2015 Rose Selection night supported by Irish ambassador Noel White. The week-long visit to this busy city was completed with the iconic Sydney Bridge Climb and a beautiful sendoff by our new friends. After that, it was Brisbane. Walkable and filled with pockets

I have learned within this past year that all stories surrounding adventure contain quintessential characters 168 |

AUGUST 2015

Top, Maria Walsh takes a leap of faith over Jurien Bay, and, left, gets some koala love.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination? Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself. The editor’s decision is final.

of unique experiences: the manmade beach, beautiful churches and the botanic gardens on the doorstep of our hotel were a real treat. We travelled to the Steve Irwin Zoo and took in a croc show, along with a drive up the mountains before connecting with the local Rose centre. Our final stop was Perth. While deemed the most isolated city in the world, it’s home to my older sister Eileen and her boyfriend Damian – and it captured my sense of adventure. We drove to Jurien Bay for a 4,500-metre tandem skydive (with my mom!). I also had a surf lesson with Sydney Rose Imelda, co-hosted an Irish radio show and headed to the 2015 Rose Selection night. But we couldn’t leave without visiting the GAA grounds to meet the players. Irish families drive for over an hour to ensure their children get to experience the world of GAA. Each city brought new experiences and gave us the chance to connect our ever-growing diaspora. I hope to travel back to this beautiful continent and, who knows, perhaps my travelling duo will join me again for another skydive challenge? I can but dream. The Rose of Tralee International Festival takes place from August 14-18 in Tralee, Co Kerry. roseoftralee.ie

In Ireland

rsa.ie

Let’s Talk Coffee

There’s a reason Aer Lingus, Ireland’s premier airline, chooses Java Republic coffee… We have created the best coffee you’ll enjoy on an airline this year. The coffee is handroasted in our Roastery in Dublin before being freshly ground and sealed in the bottom of each cup. It is then freshly brewed in your cup for you to enjoy.