Cara June 2015

CARA Magazine June 2015

June 2015

Kodaline Ireland’s Film Industry Folk Joyce’s Dublin Naples Toronto

Bloom Time

West London

A Joycean odyssey in Dublin

That’s Amore

Naples, family style

7 Best Urban Parks

Crown Jewels

West London uncovered

Cornwall

NEsW Section

Toronto Tales

Life in the hip city

Brussels Agadir

Busines tion ch Revolu Berlin’s Te Y ching in N n u r B s s e Busin Inspire Events to

Berlin Business

Local Heroes HOW DUBLIN’S KODALINE WENT GLOBAL

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MOVIE MAGIC IRELAND’S INDUSTY A-LISTERS COMPLIMENTARY COPY

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Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219

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Contents JUNE 2015

22

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Luxe picnicking

04 ARRIVALS We welcome Aer Lingus passengers to Dublin’s T2 07

CHECK IN Where to eat, sleep, shop and sightsee this June

20 ON MY TRAVELS Theatre director Wayne Jordan’s intrepid tales 22 ELECTRIC PICNICS Ruth Anna Coss’ al fresco edit 24 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Fashion historian Ruth Griffin’s greatest adventures 26 WEEKENDER Lucy White eats her way around Limerick city 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican peruses Dublin architecture and the prettiest gardens 30 ALL ABOARD FOR YEATS Patricia Demery’s commemorative highlights 32

80 Toronto’s melting pot

54

A Joycean odyssey

BLAZING A TRAIL Nathalie Marquez Courtney spies Irish talent at the London Festival of Architecture

Features 34 KODE BREAKING Quentin Fottrell catches up with Dublin band Kodaline in NYC

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40 BEHIND THE SCENESTERS Ed Power meets Irish film folk 54 LET’S RE-JOYCE Karl Whitney’s James Joycean tour of Dublin

Naples, Italian-style

66 THAT’S AMORE Naples makes for a surprisingly bella family holiday, discovers Frances Power

Regulars

114 4 8 HOURS IN CORNWALL Meg Walker swoons at Britain’s Poldark country

80 VIEWS FROM THE 6IX Toronto’s ‘hoods, as explored by Julie Baldassi 92 THAMES TALES Neil Hegarty traverses west London via its river banks 104 7 BEST URBAN PARKS Daragh Reddin susses out the finest green spaces 112 HANG TOUGH Rock climbing has the edge, finds Niamh Wade

117 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO BRUSSELS Photographer Garry Loughlin’s favourite haunts

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London’s west end

Business

123 BUSINESS & LIFE Networking events, apps and carry-on cachet 126 BUSINESS SLEEPS & EATS New York’s The Fifty hotel and nearby brunches

120 SPOTLIGHT Niamh Wade finds much to admire in Agadir

128 SMART TRAVELLER There’s no place like Belfast for author Paul McVeigh

139 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Your in-flight news and entertainment

130 BUDDING BERLIN Louise East welcomes the tech boom

168 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Rugby’s Donncha O’Callaghan heads to Syria with UNICEF

136 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Pearls of wisdom from Brown Thomas’ Shelly Corkery

Contributors EDITORIAL Editor Jessie Collins Deputy Editor Lucy White Assistant Editor Niamh Wade Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Nathalie Marquez Courtney, Meg Walker, Bill O’Sullivan, Ruth Anna Coss, Bridget Hourican and Patricia Demery

Julie Baldassi is a journalist and filmmaker.

She has contributed to some of Canada’s finest publications, including The Walrus, Toronto Life, Spacing, and Quill & Quire, covering arts, culture, books, and the city. She is also the managing editor and publisher of Double Dot, an art and fashion magazine about sister cities. Having worked on numerous of her friends’ independent films over the past few years, Julie made her directorial debut this spring with a short film that she also wrote and produced. After stints living in Calgary, Montreal, and suburban Ontario, several years ago she settled on Toronto, where she lives with a fat grey cat named Bagel.

Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith Acting Art Director Fred Murray Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Sales & Partnership Director Rhona McAuliffe +353 (0)1 271 9634, rhona.mcauliffe@image.ie Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622, corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Niamh Wade, +353 (0)1 271 9615, niamh.wade@image.ie Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson Accounts Assistant Angela Bennett

Karl Whitney is a writer from Dublin. His first book, Hidden City: Adventures and Explorations in Dublin (Penguin, 2014) explores the hidden places and untold stories of Ireland’s capital city.

During the research he climbed into underground rivers, visited sewage plants and, in one chapter, attempted to visit all 20 of James Joyce’s Dublin addresses in a single day. “I wanted that chapter to be a kind of strange, exhausting tribute to Joyce’s house hopping,” he says. He contributes to the Irish Times and the Dublin Review, and is a graduate of University College Dublin and the University of East Anglia.

Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Laura George Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Robert Power, Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

Irish writer, Louise East, has lived in Berlin since 2008. Back in Dublin, she worked for the Irish Times as a columnist, food writer and arts journalist. Highlights: interviewing Tom Stoppard and Jane Fonda; taking a turn on a flying trapeze.

Lowlights: arriving brutally hungover to interview Madhur Jaffrey, cookbook author and possessor of an extremely acute sense of smell. “When I first came to Berlin, I would tell people I was here for three months,” says Louise. “I’ve since learned that that’s what everyone says. No one expects to stay, but the city is so relaxed, interesting and vibrant, it’s hard to leave.”

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie.

Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content.

Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are re served. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

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ON THE COVER

Kodaline photographed on location at Coney Island, Brooklyn, New York,

by Rich Gilligan, exclusively for Cara magazine.

Welcome to our new issue! We are all take yours. Feel free to ay for this magazine aw ey. your onward journ e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine

WHO? Harry Tan and Peggy Lim FLYING IN FROM ... London Gatwick HARRY SAYS ... “It’s our first time here. We have a week to explore Galway and Cork with a visit to the Cliffs of Moher in between.”

WHO? From left, Patrick, Maria and Betty Biggane FLYING IN FROM ... Isle of Man PATRICK SAYS ... “I’m here for a school reunion but we’ll stay for a week and make a holiday out of it.”

WHO? Jennifer Paul FLYING IN FROM ... Toronto JENNIFER SAYS ...

“I’m holidaying in Cork for a week before moving to Scotland to begin working at a golf course.”

Arrivals

Holidaying around Ireland is why these flyers landed into Dublin Airport’s T2 – Cara magazine was there to meet them.

WHO? Matt Garrett FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco MATT SAYS ... “I’m on vacation for two weeks. I’ve seen Dublin before so I’m heading straight to Galway for my first two nights.”

WORDS BY NIAMH WADE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? The Antonescu family FLYING IN FROM ... Brussels ADRIAN SAYS ... “We’re off to explore Connemara for a week.”

WHO? From left, Sophie Hancox and Lamara Craine FLYING IN FROM ... Isle of Man SOPHIE SAYS ... “It’s going to be a few days of madness in Dublin, with Temple Bar and Trinity College high on our must-see list.”

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WHO? Neil Thomas and Raquel Mullin FLYING IN FROM ... Toronto RAQUEL SAYS ... “We’re sightseeing for seven days with the first pit stop at the Guinness Storehouse .”

WHO? Keith Dowling and Juliette Lovius FLYING IN FROM ... Burundi via Brussels JULIETTE SAYS ... “We can’t wait to go whiskey tasting and head to the South East.”

Alaïa • Alexander McQueen • Bottega Veneta • Brioni • Brunello Cucinelli Canali • Céline • Chloé • Christian Dior • Dolce & Gabbana Ermenegildo Zegna • Givenchy • Gucci • Hermès • Louis Vuitton Saint Laurent Paris • Stella McCartney • Tom Ford • Valentino • Victoria Beckham

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie n

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Dive in

UNTITLED 4 © RANDA MIRZA / COURTESY OF THE ARTIST & GALERIE TANIT (BEYROUTH-MUNICH)

If you’re in Marseilles until June 21, drive about an hour to Toulon, for the fifth PhotoMed event (festivalphotomed.com), where Spain is its guest country – cue work

by Toni Catany and Jorge Ribalta – plus leading international snappers, including the Lebanese Randa Mirza (Untitled 4, pictured). Also in France, La Gacilly – between Nantes and Rennes – welcomes Festival Photo, the country’s largest outdoor photographic festival that attracts some two million visitors each year.

Check out the talent there this June 5 to September 30 (festivalphoto-lagacilly.com).

Find out what’s on, where and when in June 2015

Check in Compiled by Jessie Collins, Lucy White and Niamh Wade.

STAY

4 Bright and beautiful hotels Summer is in full swing and we’re loving these pops of colour …

Byblos Art Hotel Villa Amista, Verona Classical

from the outside and madcap on the inside, this former 18thcentury villa is the brainchild of the Byblos fashion house and architect/designer Alessandro Mendini. Set on 20,000 sqm of lush parkland, this five-star boutique hotel boasts original artworks by Hirst, Basquiat, Murakami and more. Rooms from €235. byblosarthotel.com

Fitzwilliam Hotel, Dublin

Magenta, amethyst, sapphire ... Expect to see shots of all these colours at this city-centre five-star – and also emerald, since the hotel overlooks the verdant St Stephen’s Green (ask for a park-facing room). Not just a feast for the eyes, the Fitzwilliam also has Thornton’s, a Michelin-starred restaurant. Rooms from €219. fitzwilliamhoteldublin.com

LEGOLAND Hotel, Winter Haven, Florida Beauty is

in the eye of the beholder and LEGO fans will go gaga for this newly opened resort within LEGOLAND park. Its zany 152 guest rooms have different themes – Pirate, Kingdom, Adventure and LEGO Friends – while every night there are building competitions for the truly brick-obsessed. Rooms from $314. florida.legoland.com

Hotel du Continent, Paris

Fashion designer Christian Lacroix is renowned for his sumptuous style, so it’s no surprise that the rooms he designed for this three-star, 19th-century property near the Place Vendôme are bursting with colour and ostentation, from chartreuse corridors and scarlet stairwells, to map and bird covered walls. Rooms from €200. hotelcontinent.com

STYLE

PHOTOGRAPHY

Top of the colour pops

Sounds pretty heavy ...

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6 1 Walt Round Sunglasses, £14 at topshop.com 2 Orla Kiely Sweet Pea Leather Bag, €229 at kilkennyshop.com 3 Chantelle Bra & Briefs, €58/€25, at brownthomas.ie 4 FRANCE Lace-up Shoes, £32 at topshop.com 5 YSL Beauté La Laque Couture Pop Water, €24 at arnotts.ie 6 SelfPortrait Burnout Midi Dress, €305 at brownthomas.ie 7 Urban Decay Eyeshadow, €18 at debenhams.ie

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Photography fans in Northern Ireland will be rubbing their Leicas with glee this June 4-30 when the Belfast Photo Festival returns.

Some 30 venues will be hosting exhibitions, talks, masterclasses, screenings and symposia, while the DeLorean Print Project, above, aims to build a full-scale replica of the Back to the Future car/time machine using photographs on aluminium. belfastphotofestival.com

FILM EXHIBITION

RIRI BY SOPHIE WEBSTER, 2013 / IMAGE COURTESY OF UNITED NUDE

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE “Give a girl the right shoes and she can conquer the world,” so said Marilyn Monroe – whose heels, incidentally, feature in the Victoria and Albert Museum’s new exhibition, Shoes: Pleasure and Pain, (June 13 to January 31, 2016).

Showcasing “extremes of footwear from around the globe”, this exhibit dusts off statement shoes in all their gem-stoned, ankle-bothering glory, from Indian toe-knob padukas and Japanese geta (clogs) to gold-encrusted Dior slingbacks worn by the rich and famous. vam.ac.uk

Starry nights

CAMILLA GREENWELL

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A long time ago, going to the cinema meant sneaking bags of your mum’s buttery popcorn into a fusty old picture house. Nowadays, it’s an experience. London’s Secret Cinema (secretcinema. org) leads the charge with its huge-scale, site-specific immersive screenings; for last year’s Back to the Future event, the world of Hill Valley this summer, an outdoor of being photographed beside was recreated at the Olympic screenings series in locations a life-size replica of Jabba the Park, right. This year is Star across Dublin, Cork and Wars: The Empire Strikes Back Hutt. Also hotly anticipated Limerick. May the force be is the return of our very own (June 4 until September 27; with us for dry weather …

Happenings (happenings.ie) screenings every Tuesday to Sunday), and while the Club in location is still under wraps Chambers Bay Golf ive vis di e Th OP DR BALL at the time of writing, our en between welcomes the US Op imagination is running Washington finally sh players, ng a fair few stellar Iri riot at the prospect June 15-21 – includi

making it a challenge

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usga.or well worth watching.

FAMILY

Race you there In London, classical music appreciation starts young at the Spitalfields Summer Festival (June 2-16; spitalfieldsmusic. org), where interactive workshop If a Tree Falls in The Forest: The Bad Mood combines poetry, movement and music by Bach, Cage and Ravel for little ones – and one of many performances incorporating old and new music. For the swashbucklers in your life, jump onboard the Irish Maritime Festival, left, in Drogheda, Co Louth (June 19-21; maritimefestival.ie) – bring loud cheering voices for the Stand-Up Paddle and boat races. Or, for active youngsters in Boston, The Spartan Kids Race could be just the ticket for its fun, energyexerting obstacle courses (June 20-21; spartan.com). But if horse racing excites the gang, take a bet on Family Sunday at the 150th Irish Derby at The Curragh, Co Kildare (June 28; curragh.ie). With a special Kidz Zone, events and food to feast on, it’s sure to be a winner.

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DIASPORA

Making a scene “I remember when I first came here, everyone at my new school thought I had an American accent – I don’t think kids my age had ever heard a strong Dublin accent before …” Stephen Whelan is reminiscing about his family’s relocation from Ireland to the UK at just eight years old. Fast forward a few decades, and the London-based Dubliner is making waves as the founder and executive producer of White Lodge, a creative direction and production company “creating engaging content for fashion and lifestyle brands”. And not just waves in the UK either – he has been talent-spotted by the Berlin Fashion Film Festival, who invited him on to this year’s jury panel. The 18-hour event is a networking shindig for production companies and creative agencies scouting for new visual talent and trends in communications: “Festivals are always a really good opportunity to check out work by emerging and unsigned directors,” he explains. Whelan’s career began in magazine publishing and advertising before a natural progression into marketing. Berlin is another natural habitat, having once lived there for three months “ostensibly to learn German but in reality I ended up spending more time exploring the city than my textbooks …” Production campaigns mean clocking up serious air miles – “for one shoot, I took eleven planes in seven days” – so when he’s not at the White Lodge office in Soho or his Brixton home (“a vibrant community that’s thankfully largely immune to the creeping gentrification of monolithic estate agencies”), he’s kicking back in the motherland: “The last time I visited Dublin I went out on South Great George’s Street for the first time. It’s easy to get spoiled with the variety of gay bars and clubs in London, so it was interesting to see what the scene was like there. But I love to visit Howth when I’m over. The journey out from Dublin city is one of my favourite train rides.”

The Berlin Fashion Film Festival is on June 5 at the Astra Kulturhaus; berlinfashionfilmfestival.net

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LITERATURE

A turn up for the books There’s an unprecedented number of literary festivals vying for your attention in June, not least the inaugural Howth Midsummer Literary Arts Festival (howthliteraryfestival.com) in Co Dublin, June 5 to 7. Pulitzer Prize winning authors Richard Ford and Michael Cunningham will host five “In Conversation” events with Booker Prize winners John Banville, Roddy Doyle and Anne Enright, while the festival also aims to highlight the contribution of one of the great British architects, Sir Edwin Lutyens, to the local area. Also that weekend is the Festival of Writing and Ideas (festivalofwritingandideas.com) held in the grounds of Borris House and the historical Co Carlow village of Borris, with speakers who include David Gilmour of Pink Floyd and Ian McEwan.

From June 11 to 14, Lismore in Co Waterford is hosting Immrama (lismoreimmrama. com), a celebration of travel writing that boasts renowned journalist and author Robert Fisk, presenter and travel writer Charley Boorman and Jonathan Shackleton, cousin of Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton, who has accompanied 21 groups to the Antarctic in the past ten years as historian, guide and photographer. Described by Salman Rushdie as “the best little festival in the world”, the Dalkey Book Festival (dalkeybookfestival.org) takes place that same weekend. This year sees

Dublin actor Gabriel Byrne is a special guest at this year’s Dalkey Book Festival.

June 6-7 as ing of Krapp’s Last Tape runs DUTCH GOLD A new imagin performed llandfestival.nl). Directed and part of the Holland Festival (ho son, Samuel garde theatre artist Robert Wil by renowned American avanth Wilson’s ed solely in black and white, wit Beckett’s masterpiece will be stag et. king it the festival’s hottest tick trademark attention to detail ma

actor Gabriel Byrne in conversation with Caroline Erskine as part of their Yeats Day celebrations, while elsewhere there will be readings, family events and discussions from brilliant minds such as New York Times best-selling author Dan Ariely, who explains why we all lie – especially to ourselves.

Wrapping up the month is the Hay Festival Kells (hayfestival.com) from June 25 to 28. Now in its third year, it brings together figures as disparate as Brian Eno and Roddy Doyle to celebrate great writing from around the world.

ART

A major retrospective is happening this summer to celebrate the 70th birthday of Sean Scully, one of Ireland’s most celebrated modern painters. The National Gallery of Ireland (nationalgallery.ie) is currently running a solo show of his work (the first living artist to have a major exhibition there), and there are also exhibitions in the Kerlin Gallery (kerlingallery.com) from June 25 and Crawford Art Gallery (crawfordartgallery.ie) in Cork from June 26. Overseas there are events too, with the Palazzo Falier in Venice exhibiting 25 works at the Venice Biennale 14 |

JUNE 2015

(labiennale. org), while the world-famous Romanesque abbey Santa Cecilia, near Barcelona, will include paintings dedicated to the artist’s mother from June 30 (museudemontserrat. com). Simultaneously, the Museo Picasso Málaga

(museopicassomalaga.org) will show 101 works by Louise Bourgeois: I Have Been to Hell and Back opens on June 10 and runs until September 27. Furthermore, the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago (mcachicago.org) presents S, M, L, XL, below, which explores the accessibility of contemporary sculpture with four interactive works.

© 2011 KRIS MARTIN / PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERT WEDEMEYER

SCULLY AT 70

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The GUINNESS® word and HARP device are trademarks and are used under license. Please remember to drink GUINNESS® responsibly. © Guinness & Co 2015

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FOOD

4 Food festivals …

Taste of Dublin returns to the Iveagh Gardens for its tenth anniversary (June 11-14; tasteofdublin.ie).

The Culinary Counter’s chef Mark Moriarty will be there – and also in Milan, representing Ireland and the UK at the San Pellegrino Young Chef of the Year finals. Here are his fave summer food festivals.

Cork Summer Show A “farm to table” festival. As well as its agricultural elements, there is a super artisan food showcase with stalls by local producers, hot food served by restaurants, and cooking demos by renowned chefs. It’s a great day out and an opportunity to source new ingredients and meet the producers. June 2021; corksummershow.com

Boston Seafood Festival This celebrates the best of New England produce in my favourite US city. Sample classics such as clam chowder and boiled Maine lobster on the picturesque pier. Guests can compete in the Battle of the Shuckers contest – and visitors should try Eagles Deli in nearby Brighton for the best burgers. August 2; bostonseafoodfestival.org

London Borough Market Not so much a food festival but a market that dates back as early as 1014. This is my favourite spot for food in London and provides a festive atmosphere all year round. With cuisines from around the world on offer, and stunning fish and meat stalls, this really is a must for any food lover in the British capital. boroughmarket.org.uk

Budapest Street Food Show I came across this great festival on the Danube by accident. It’s a medley of street food from all over the world – everything from Greek gyros, hamburgers and hot dogs to German sausages, goulash, Asian traditional street food, fish dishes, as well as sweet cakes and desserts. There are also a lot of craft beers. June 6-7; budapestbylocals.com

FATHER’S DAY

TOP TIPPLES If the best way to a man’s heart is through his stomach, London dads can raise a glass to 108 Brasserie’s Men’s Afternoon Tea this Father’s Day (June 21), which includes savouries, sweets – and an optional pint of Guinness (June 8-21, £28pp; 108brasserie.com). Malt aficionados should approve of a masterclass at the Dingle Distillery Whiskey School in Co Kerry (dingledistillery.ie), or a tour of the Irish Whiskey Museum, Dublin (irishwhiskeymuseum.ie). Craft ale dads could be gifted vouchers for Dublin’s Beerhouse, a new craft beer den hosting tastings and Pizza and a Pint nights (beerhousedublin.com).

MORE FESTIVALS

EVERY LITTLE KELPS …

The Wild Atlantic Seaweed Festival in Ballybunion, Co Kerry, returns on June 5-7, where expert Prannie Rhatigan and cook Clodagh McKenna will offer advice on foraging and cooking (email ballybuniontouristoffice@ gmail.com). Also in Kerry is one of Ireland’s longest running food festivals, Listowel Food Fair, on June 18-21 (listowelfoodfair.ie). Now in its 21st year, it boasts farmers’ markets, guest chefs, food photography exhibitions and more.

resting – in ry Street Car Park just got inte THRILLA GRILLA Dublin’s Dru makers of -up bar/steakhouse from the the basement is Luna; a new pop isssue.com and The Butcher Grill. superm Super Miss Sue, Dillinger’s, 777

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You can drink Guinness the world over.

The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and associated logos are trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2014

But you can only experience it here.

The Storehouse is the home of the story of Guinness, and Ireland’s number one visitor attraction. Behind these gates you can explore seven floors of the intertwining history of Guinness, Dublin and Ireland. Then top off your visit in the top floor Gravity Bar, where Dublin, quite literally, spreads out beneath your feet, and the perfect pint awaits.

Book online and get 10% off www.guinness-storehouse.com Guinness Storehouse®, St James’s Gate, Dublin 8.

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JUNE 2015

Wish you were here Angus O’Riordan O’Riordan, left, lives in Sandyford, Dublin, and teaches adult literacy.

He took this evocative shot while strolling on Barrow Beach in Co Kerry. “I’ve been going to this beach for as long as I can remember,” he says. “My father is from Ardfert, Co. Kerry, and we would often travel there from Dublin as children. My family and I were lucky enough to be in Kerry during the minor heatwave of Easter week. This photo was taken as my two children, Molly and Charlie, ran ahead and chased each other on the strand. It was approaching 5pm but the sun still beamed down.”

Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the July issue.

The technicals Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot.

The editor’s decision is final.

JUNE 2015

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On my travels The Dublin-based theatre director – and Parisian macaroon fan – Wayne Jordan shares his roving tales with Niamh Wade.

Freelance theatre director Wayne Jordan is a graduate of Trinity College Dublin’s Samuel Beckett Theatre.

These days he spearheads productions as diverse as the contemporary musical Alice in Funderland (commissioned

by THISISPOPBABY) at the Abbey Theatre to this year’s well-received Romeo and Juliet at the Gate. He’s back at the former directing Sean O’Casey’s The Shadow of a Gunman from June 12 to August 1 (abbeytheatre.ie), following a run at Belfast’s Lyric Theatre. He also teaches at The Lir, and TCD, where he’s associate resident director. y favourite city for theatre is …

Dublin (of course). I think that despite the size of the country and the fact that the arts are disgracefully underfunded, there are amazing, intelligent and incredibly hardworking people making diverse, important and exciting work across the city every day.

The quirkiest place I ever stayed in was … A very colourful, love-heart-themed hostel in Madrid. I slept in a brightly painted cot in a room I shared with a student friend.

The whole place looked like it had been designed by the lovechild of a daytime TV set designer and a greeting card illustrator.

M

When I’m away, my guilty pleasure is … Macarons. I’m like Nora in The Doll’s House for macarons. In 2011, I spent the autumn in Paris and was delighted to discover that a regular Parisian macaron is four times the size of a regular one – absolute almondy yum!

My dream theatre would be … A place, ideally in the sun, where I could work for months with people that I love and admire, on extraordinary texts or with brilliant ideas and make one long, amazing and utterly fabulous show that travels the world for years and makes people cry.

When I fly I always pack … My Kindle. At first I was suspicious of electronic readers but now I can’t imagine my life without it.

I have hundreds of books on it – many of which I own in physical copies, but I love to have them all with me. I recently read Colm Tóibín’s exquisite The Master (I was a bit late to that party), and devoured Hilary Mantel’s Thomas Cromwell novels.

My earliest childhood holiday memory is … Of my father dressed as Tarzan singing Dublin in the Rare Auld Times in a packed bar on a Costa-delsomewhere in the early 1980s.

The most lavish place I ever stayed in was … In Washington DC. Some very swishy people kindly let me use their apartment while they were away.

They had a remarkable amount of white furniture. I spent the whole time terrified of breaking and staining things.

When I’m on tour, I miss …

The Good Wife. Will Gardner was my favourite. He broke my heart. Now I make do with Diane Lockhart. Sometimes I pretend to be her. Like in difficult meetings.

My favourite holiday was …

When my parents took us to EuroDisney when we were kids.

I love rollercoasters. We went on them all countless times.

Whenever we’re together we always remember it – the laughs, the rows, the confiscated electric cart. Fun times.

This year my holidays will be …

Unlikely. But if I do get away, or find a spare couple of months, my dream would be to drive from France to Morocco. The fact that I can’t drive is also a barrier in this instance.

3 best performance courses …

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Are you a parent of children aged 13-17 who love the theatre – but not the learning lines and dressing up bits? A ten-day Stage Production course at the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland, Glasgow, July 20-31, left, uncovers the backstage crafts of stage management, lighting and sound engineering. rcs.ac.uk

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JUNE 2015

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“Education is not the filling of a pail but the lighting of a fire,” wrote WB Yeats.

Fan those flames performing the works of Yeats and other Irish literary greats, both traditional and contemporary, during the Irish Theatre Summer School at the Gaiety School of Acting in Dublin, June 22 to July 17. gaietyschool.com

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Watch out, Hollywood – a one to six-week Filmmaking Workshop at Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts with the New York Film Academy, between June 21 and August 8, teaches all aspects of motion picture production, including writing, editing and directing short films. nyfa.edu/harvard

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My travel notebook

Fashion writer, stylist and historian RUTH GRIFFIN is a former online editor for matchesfashion.com and Liberty of London. Since moving back to Dublin, she writes a successful blog, Rua Ruth (ruaruth.com), and this summer hosts Lost Fashion History of Dublin walking tours around Dublin’s former garment district, South William Street. Here she tells Lucy White about her favourite trips.

Sacro Cuore GoldPlated Earrings by Dolce & Gabbana, €395 at net-a-porter.com

Lace Dress by Self-Portrait, €305 at brownthomas.com

Medea Sandals by Ancient Greek Sandals, €200 at ancient-greek-sandals.com

Mulberry Blossom Tote, €595 at brownthomas.com

Monique Scalloped Swimsuit by Anthropologie, €115 at anthropologie.eu

1 Lomo Diana F+ Mr Pink Camera, €75.65 at shop.lomography. com 2 Crème de la Mer Reparative Sun Face Lotion SPF30, €105 at brownthomas.com 3 Cashmere Dragonfly Wrap by Heather Finn, €75 at heatherfinn.com 4 Sisley Super Soin Solaire Milk Body Mist Sun SPF30, £74.70 at houseoffraser.co.uk 5 Liberty of London Luggage Tag, £60 at liberty.co.uk

JUNE 2015

MOST ACHINGLY BEAUTIFUL PLACE YOU’VE EVER VISITED? “Italy – there is heart-stopping beauty not only in the celebrated cities and landscapes of places such as Tuscany and the Amalfi coast, but also in the everyday towns and villages, which have the great Masters in their local churches.

The food is glorious and everyone dresses exquisitely too!”

BOTO ND IST VA

Ruth’s carry-on items ...

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MOST DARING TRAVEL EXPERIENCE? “Cycling around Kyoto, Japan, on my own with no map, no Japanese and no plan of where I wanted to go. I ended up in an amazing tea house, Kyoto Nama Chocolat Café (kyoto-namachocolat.com), and the owner gave me a tour of the Emperor’s Summer Palace in the hills.”

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BEST HOTEL IN THE WORLD? “Hiiragiya Ryokan guesthouse in Kyoto (hiiragiya.co.jp) is a hotel like no other – the experience will stay with me forever; staying there was like being a queen for a day. Staff wear the most elegant kimono and serve you a twelve-course meal, draw a wooden onsen bath and serve endless cups of green tea in beautiful teapots.”

BEST BAR YOU’VE EVER PROPPED UP? “A bar/club in East London called Passing Clouds (passingclouds.org) is a venue that grew from an artist’s collective.

They often have parties that feel like you have stepped back in time to a 1920s speakeasy, especially in their loft where the space is draped in fabric; there is live music and dancing ’til dawn.”

FAVOURITE WEEKEND BREAK? “Marrakesh is great for a long weekend, as it is so close to Europe yet so unique. There are bright blue skies, amazing food and architecture, the magical and menacing atmosphere of the Djemaa el Fna, and the Medina, which is the most extraordinary place to shop for jewellery, textiles, carpets and furniture.”

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Well versed

There was a writer called Lucy White, whose Limerick weekender was better than nice …

he menu had me at There, we tucked into unctuous honey and lavender cheeses from Duarte’s hometown of carrots. Never Rocamadour in the Dordogne, where mind the Pigtown he was raised on a farm and, to this choucroute – a porcine day, his family runs a deli selling colossus of ham hock, pork belly, homegrown and homemade produce. pork sausage and sauerkraut (I’m I should’ve had a restless night a vegetarian) – this floral and root after so much late-night fromage, vegetable side dish had my bouche however, my bed was so vast and immediately amused. my room so wonderfully quiet that The spectre of Angela’s Ashes I enjoyed a deep slumber without looms large over Limerick but there toiling. Likely the spa treatment was nothing less than comfort and before dinner helped; a glorious conviviality at Sash restaurant in No. body massage and facial 1 Pery Square, a gorgeous Georgian combo in the hotel’s townhouse cum boutique hotel former basement – what overlooking People’s Park. On this was once the property’s visit, a host of daffodils cheered up coal bunker is now every window sill, while the hotel’s a swish steam room loyalty to its VOYA spa extended into and sauna. De-stressed its elegant bar – with VOYA branded muscles and a food coma, gin cocktails (who knew?). The decor’s then. No wonder I slept relaxing palette of fifty shades of like a log … greys, greens and golds – sympathetic Does walking off a big to the period property yet meal count when bang on the zeitgeist you’re strolling – are all thanks to to a food the artful eye of market the BYGONE BREAK proprietor Patricia following day?

Vintage fans will love the Roberts, while Probably not, spacious, elegant Period Sash’s French but then a trip Rooms at the four-star chef, Fred Duarte, to Limerick city boutique hotel No.1 Pery draws residents isn’t complete Square, which cost from and locals alike to without a visit to €135 B&B. (061 402 402; the buzzy, first-floor the Milk Market oneperysquare.com) dining-room. on Cornmarket Row AL HIGGIN S

T

What to pack ...

1 Chestnut S Tote by Le Bas, €320 at scoutdublin.com 2 Denim Dress by Alexa for AG Jeans, €370 at brownthomas.com 3 Necklace by Capulet and Montague, €125 at omdivaboutique.com 4 Ruby Woo Lip Liner & Lipstick by MAC, €16.50/€19.50 at brownthomas.com 5 Gizeh Dress Blue Patent Sandals by Birkenstock, €59.99 at birkenstock.ie

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Top, the table is set for a veritable feast at Sash restaurant.

Above, St John’s Castle presides over the River Shannon.

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(milkmarketlimerick.ie).

There, every Friday to Sunday, fresh, seasonal and locally grown produce abound, from chutneys to sourdough to fruit and veg, while you can snack on warm falafel wraps, crêpes, calamari, barbecued mushrooms and pies to go. It’s not just a place to pig out in either – the tarpaulin-covered courtyard also hosts special events, including cult film screenings and dance, tai chi and meditation classes. Food for the stomach and the soul – every Irish city should have a Milk Market.

Stop off along the way at Limerick City Gallery on People’s Park (gallery.limerick.ie), which remains true to its founding policy of 1936, to exhibit “examples of the work of all well-known artists of Irish birth, or of those who have worked in Ireland”. I also lingered on Lucky Lane (luckylane. info), a treasure trove of pre-loved clothing, books and furniture, homemade food, original artwork and even plants. I left with a vintage dress – thankfully smockstyle, after all the feasting …

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Shelf Life|

Bridget Hourican leafs through Dublin architecture, and plucks the best garden books.

Behind the lines

ROS KAVANAGH

Author Garvan Grant on his True(ish) History of Ireland with cartoonist Gerard Crowley.

HIGH TIME

DUBLIN ARCHITECTURE: 150+ BUILDINGS SINCE 1990 by Seán Antóin

Better late than never? In February 2016, Faber will release The Little Red Chairs – the first novel by Edna ‘Country Girls’ O’Brien in ten years. Plot: A war criminal, posing as a healer, wreaks havoc on an Irish village.

Ó Muirí (Gandon Editions, €29) The Celtic Tiger created buildings, some of them dreadful, some – as showcased in this book – marvellous. Cork architect Seán Antóin Ó Muirí has collated, photographed and documented the best of the public and private buildings of the last 25 years – houses, office blocks, schools, community centres, theatres, bridges, stadiums, and ‘mixed use’ buildings like Donnelly Turpin’s Rathmines Square, above, which comprises apartments, pool, sports hall and garden. Essays by architects Dermot Boyd and Shane O’Toole give context, while each project includes a handy note on how to get there by public transport.

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY “TRUE(ISH)”?

In a way, all history is “trueish” as it’s always told from a particular person’s perspective – or, as Winston Churchill wryly put it: “History is written by the victors.” We wanted to write a history of Ireland as told by the Irish people themselves.

SO GIVE US A TRUEISH FACT ABOUT IRISH HISTORY Did you know that the most valuable traded commodities which Ireland exports to the world are people, chat, rain and the “luck of the Irish”?

Honest! It’s true. Ish. AND SOMETHING TOO ODD TO BE TRUE (BUT IS)? Despite invading most Western European countries, the Romans never conquered Ireland.

YOUR FAVOURITE IRISH LANDMARK? Blarney Castle, which features in a cartoon on the cover of our book. The thing I love most about Irish people is our “gift of the gab” – as if every Irish baby was made to kiss the Blarney Stone.

MOST INTERESTING SECRET SITE? The Great South Wall in Dublin. There’s something very special about coming back from the lighthouse and seeing the entire city laid out before you.

The True(ish) History of Ireland by Garvan Grant (Mercier Press, €7.99) is out now.

3 blooming books …

IRISH DEMESNE LANDSCAPES 1660-1740 by Vandra Costello (Four Courts Press, €45) Historian Costello looks at the great age of formal Irish gardens, the era of the grand geometric style – also of vegetable patches, bee keeping and melon growing.

Many are now open to the public so swot up before you visit Killruddery, Doneraile Park, Dromoland Castle and more.

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GARDENS IN FRANCE by Angelika Taschen, Deidi von Schaewen, Marie-Françoise Valéry (Taschen, €14.99) The formal gardens of Versailles, the medicinal herb gardens of Provence and Monet’s water lilies in Giverny ... France’s gardens are as diverse as its landscapes. This book is a horticulturalist’s tour of France, from roses in the north to the lavender in the Midi.

SECRET GARDENS by Alain Le Toquin (Abrams Books, £30) The thirteen private gardens featured here aren’t open to the public so you’ll have to be an armchair voyager, but Le Toquin has literally travelled the world to find and photograph some of the most extraordinary gardens you’ll ever not be allowed to visit. Includes biographies of the landscape architects.

CULLIN down-filled gilet in Red with MARTELLO three-quarter sleeve sweater in Navy and POPPY shorts in White KILLARNEY polo in Red Multi

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All aboard for Yeats

The 150th anniversary of the poet’s birth is celebrated this month. Patricia Demery picks the highlights. t’s 150 years since the birth of WB Yeats and, to celebrate the Dubliner as one of Ireland’s foremost literary figures, 2015 is filled with events – from music and readings to food and song – peaking during his birthday month of June.

His beloved spiritual home of Sligo has an extended four-day festival surrounding Yeats Day (the poet’s birthday) on June 13, when a special Poetry Train will leave Connolly Station in Dublin at 11am, transporting passengers to the epicentre of Yeats Country. In Sligo will be a variety of celebrations throughout the town, including the Mad Hatter’s Birthday Tea Party with the Yeats Society (Yeats Memorial Building), while you can share a slice of birthday cake at the Só Sligo Food Festival Village in Stephen Street Car Park. Meanwhile, look out for Will and Jack’s Tent of Tales in the city centre, street poets, and also Yeats at One (1pm) in Sligo’s oldest pub, Hargadon’s on O’Connell Street.

A very special event will take place that evening at the Knocknarea Arena in Sligo IT, where poet laureates will gather to pay tribute

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to Yeats. Hosted by Ireland chair of poetry Paula Meehan, guests will include the poet laureate of England, Carol Ann Duffy; the national poet of Wales, Gillian Clarke; the national poet of Scotland, Liz Lochhead, and Belfast’s first poet laureate, Sinéad Morrissey (yeatsday.com).

Elsewhere in Sligo, you can take a boat trip across Lough Gill to Innisfree, the site of one of his most famous poems, or walk in his shoes and wander down by the Salley Gardens (also made famous by Yeats) along the banks of the river at Ballisodare, or climb Ben Bulben Mountain rising dramatically over Sligo county, setting the scene in some of his most famous works.

Near Gort in Co Galway, Coole Park (coolepark.ie), where Yeats was inspired to write “The Wild Swans” – and once the centre of the Irish Literary Revival Movement and home to his great friend and co-founder of the Abbey Theatre, Lady Augusta Gregory – will be hosting celebrations at its visitors’ centre.

And if you’re staying in Dublin, head for Yeats’ birthplace in Sandymount.

The Man in Black – Yeats pictured above. Below, the lake isle of Innisfree on Lough Gill in Co Sligo.

More Yeats birthday bashes …

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A Big Apple Birthday Salute, New York The WB Yeats Society New York will host a special Yeats birthday celebration on June 9, from 6pm to 9pm at the National Arts Club on Gramercy Park South. There will be a free screening of short films about the poet followed by a literary dinner at $49 a head. yeatssociety.org

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The Poet and the Harper, Vienna A theatre and musical piece that focuses on the lives and works of the famous blind harpist Turlough O’Carolan and WB Yeats, woven together in poetry, 18th century harp music, anecdote and story, and performed by Sligo five-piece Tale of the Gael, left. yeats2015.com

There, local residents are hosting a Yeats Day party on Sandymount Green, which becomes the setting for the love story of Yeats and Maud Gonne explored through music, performance and poetry, organised by Yeats biographer, Anthony J Jordan.

On June 14, the KBC Dublin Musical Saunter 2015 takes place in the city centre; a day-long series of four concerts exploring Yeats’ influence on classical music, beginning in The Hugh Lane Gallery at noon, followed by the National Concert Hall at 3pm, the Irish Writers Centre at 6pm and finishing at Dublin Castle’s Chapel Royal at 8.30pm (greatmusicinirishhouses. com).

For more info on the programme of events, visit yeats2015.com.

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Yeats in Europe Symposium, Netherlands The two-day symposium from June 18-20, in conjunction with the University of Utrecht and the Irish Embassy in The Hague, is looking at Yeats’ relationship with Europe. Guest speakers at the free event include UCD’s Dr Lucy Collins and senator Susan O’Keeffe, chair of Yeats 2015. wbyeats.wp.hum.uu.nl

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Ireland shines at this year’s London Festival of Architecture, our homegrown talent given pride of place, writes Nathalie Marquez Courtney. uturistic exhibitions, iconic classics and Irish design are just some of the goodies at this year’s London Festival of Architecture. The monthlong celebration of architectural creativity features exhibitions, talks and projects on show across the UK capital this June 1-30.

One of the most exciting developments is that Ireland has been selected as the first “focus country” at this year’s festival, which will give emerging Irish designers the opportunity to have their work seen by an international audience.

This couldn’t come at a better time for Irish design and architecture – ID2015, a year-long celebration of Irish design and creativity, is in full swing, and there are several inspiring architectural practices making their mark on the international scene.

Earlier this year, Irish duo Sheila O’Donnell and John Tuomey of O’Donnell + Tuomey were awarded Britain’s Royal Gold Medal, one of the world’s most prestigious architecture awards.

Irish practices being presented at the festival include Clancy Moore Architects (whose stunning products, the Strand Lamp and Carvel Chair,

THOMAS SAELZLE

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became instant Irish design classics), Hall McKnight, who designed the striking stone tower that is the Metropolitan Arts Centre (MAC) in Belfast, above right, and Steve Larkin, whose minimalists designs, right, saw him tipped as one of the top young architects of the world by Wallpaper* magazine.

Other headlinegrabbing international events at the festival include Google’s The Future of Work (June 22-30), an interactive project designed in Mountain View, California, in collaboration with Cloud Arch Studio, that explores what the 2020 workplace might look like and what impact changes in technology, architecture and culture will have on our office spaces. Aptly, key parts of the exhibition will be on show at London’s own Google Campus.

Those all too familiar with the Tube might enjoy the London Transport Museum’s subterranean event. In Holden Goes West (June 13 and 20, 2-5pm), guides will kick off from Piccadilly Circus station and lead participants on a tour of Tube stops that epitomise British

CHRISTIAN RICHTERS

Blazing a trail

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Top, sunlight spills into Belfast ’s MAC and, above, a house design

by Steve Larkin Architects in Baile Eamoínn, Co Galway.

3 more fun design events …

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Berlin International Design Festival, June 11-14 The theme of this year’s festival is “Back to the Future”, celebrating both traditional roots and exciting new concepts, left, all in the beautiful, raw and industrial surrounds of Kraftwerk Berlin, a decommissioned power plant built around the same time as the Berlin Wall. dmy2015.com

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Hidden Heroes: The Genius of Everyday Things, Dublin Castle, until June 14 It can be a teabag, a towel or Tupperware – Hidden Heroes: The Genius of Everyday Things is an international travelling exhibition exploring the fascinating design history of some of our most-used and abused objects, and honours 36 simple design classics. irishdesign2015.ie

Modernism. Developed by British architect Charles Holden in the late 1920s, the fresh, unfussy aesthetic of Piccadilly had never been seen in Britain before and paved the way for a new style of urban architecture. Holden would go on to design the headquarters for the London Underground group – often dubbed London’s first skyscraper.

Another interactive highlight is the Giant Dolls House Project at Old Street’s Shelter Café (June 1-10); a collaborative installation of individually-made shoeboxes where visitors are invited to help create “an evolving miniature neighbourhood”.

New Horizons, a brand new project, will also be unveiled, showcasing ten emerging Irish practices at high-profile venues around the world, proving that 2015 will truly be the year that Irish design goes global. londonfestivalofarchitecture.org

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San Francisco Design Week, June 4-12 A hub of creativity and innovation, San Francisco Design Week (or SF Design Week to locals) explores and celebrates design across a wide range of disciplines – from the cutting-edge, tech innovations of Silicon Valley to the fascinating history behind some of the Bay Area’s oldest neon signage. sfdesignweek.org

Yeats2015 Celebrate Yeats2015 at the National Library this June, with our free exhibition and programme of events, including a Yeats History Ireland Hedge School.

Full details on www.nli.ie

INTERVIEW

Kode breaking Hot on the heels of the release of their chart-topping second album, Coming Up for Air, north Dublin’s Kodaline are primed for the big time. Quentin Fottrell catches up with them in New York.

Photographs by Rich Gilligan.

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odaline, the four-man indie rock band from Swords, are less than halfway through their 25-show US tour, when we meet in New York on a sunny afternoon in May. It’s only 3pm and already about a dozen teenagers are slumped in a line against a wall outside, waiting patiently to be the first ones into the venue and up close and personal with the act. That’s not a bad turnout for five hours before show time and two years after their debut album – it’s perhaps only a small sign of things to come.

Sitting in their dressing room at Terminal 5 venue in midtown Manhattan, they’re looking pretty relaxed for a band that are going on stage in a few hours and will (all going well) bring the house down to a couple of thousand American fans.

There’s none of the usual bravado, backslapping and wise-cracking along the lines of “we knew we’d be big stars one day” one expects from bands that have cracked – or,

at least, made more than a few significant cracks in – the American market.

All dressed in black jeans and T-shirts, lead singer Steve Garrigan, 26, guitarist Mark Prendergast, 26, drummer Vinny May, 25, and bassist Jason Boland, 27, who’s still on stage helping with the sound-check, could be mistaken for the crew. They have a distinctly inconspicuous look and show no evidence of an overactive stylist. “We try not to be pretentious,” Vinny says. In fact, they don’t even know how to describe their music. “We haven’t really found a sound,” Steve explains.

This could be just another gig at a school in Dublin, if it wasn’t for the massive tour bus parked outside. Their first album, In a Perfect World, released in 2013, went to No 3 in the UK and spent nine weeks at No 1 in Ireland. And a single from that album, “All I Want,” was featured in Grey’s Anatomy and The Vampire Diaries, and the hit movie The Fault in Our Stars.

The second album, Coming Up for Air, was

released in February to continued acclaim.

Their sound is fluid, sometimes melancholic and syrupy like Coldplay, other times with a more upbeat vibe reminiscent of another foursome, The Beatles.

These are the kids you heard talk about jamming in their parents’ garages, playing local schools and doing Thin Lizzy covers.

“We played them terribly,” Steve admits. He and Mark bonded over the electric guitar, and paid homage to Rory Gallagher. “God loves a trier,” Mark adds. Self-deprecation is not something you hear a lot of stateside. It makes a refreshing change. Steve and Mark met when they were in Coláiste Choilm Secondary School in Swords in north Dublin, the only two boys in the school choir. Vinny was a neighbour and their friend Jay grew up in Celbridge, Co Kildare.

“Vinny was the guy who turned up with a brand new skateboard and brand new shoes,” Steve says. “There’s no skateboarding culture in Ireland, so you’d get odd looks.” In a previous incarnation

under the name “21 Demands”, they competed in RTÉ’s television talent show You’re a Star, losing to singer David O’Connor. Louis Walsh, a judge, said they should win but, as is often the case, those who don’t win are often the biggest breakout stars. At the time, that was small consolation. “It was our 15 minutes of fame,” Steve says. “But if we had signed a deal we probably would have been too young.”

Drummers are not easy to find in suburbia, especially when you’re still living with your parents. No one wants to be woken by that racket at 3am. “We are hard to come by at that age,” Vinny says. “Not a lot of parents will let them have drums.”

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banging them, of course – he was in high demand. “When we were 14 or 15, we actually kicked Vinny out of the band because he was in too many bands,” Steve says. But they sorted it out and, Vinny adds, “We had a big luvvie moment.”

If anything, their brief taste of fame was humbling and appears to define them to this day. “It gave us a taste of the entertainment industry – the fake side,” Vinny says.

“People will promise you anything.”

They kept gigging and even sent out their curriculum vitae to record

Coney Island babies? Kodaline taking time out on their US tour.

companies. “I never heard of a band with a CV,” Steve says. They kept their eye on the prize – more gigging, less ligging (a media term for going to parties where there’s free booze and plenty of photographers).

“We avoid anything that has anything to do with celebrity like the plague,” Mark says.

They travelled to London to audition for record companies, not always with success. “We were so nervous and so naïve,” Steve says.

Their patience paid off: English producer Stephen Harris agreed to produce In a Perfect World.

One song from that album, “High Hopes,” resonates for Steve.

“I had so much belief in that song,” he says. “I knew that it had to be heard. It captured how I felt and the experience I was going through. At that stage, it was the most fully formed song and best song that I had written.”

Still, even then they had modest ambitions, which they have already surpassed. “We wanted to play Olympia-type venues everywhere,” Mark says, referring to the historic theatre in Dublin. “Our ultimate goal is to become a career band,” Steve adds. “If luck is on our side and we work very hard, in ten years’ time we can still be doing what we’re doing.” They’d like to play at bigger venues, Steve adds. This statement provides the band with another lesson in humility. “This is pretty big,” Mark says, looking around.

Steve immediately sees the humour in this. “At one point we were trying to get a gig in a local pub and they were having none of it,” he says.

So what was the moment they realised something was different this time? “We supported Kings of Leon in Marley Park [Dublin] and sang in front of 40,000 people,” Mark says. “The crowd sang every one of our songs.” For Vinny and Steve, it was the day, last year, when they sold out the 02 (now the 3Arena) in Dublin just before St Patrick’s Day. And when the big night arrived,

“If luck is on our side, and we work very hard, in ten years’ time we can still be doing what we’re doing”

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INTERVIEW

says. “I could see myself living in New York or Austin,” Vinny adds.

One bittersweet thing about touring in 2015: old friends who have left Ireland and now live in Australia, Canada and the US, regularly turn up at their shows.

“We’ve gotten to travel the other side of the world and all of a sudden someone will turn up.” Mark and Steve’s former Irish and drama teacher appeared at a gig in Italy. This particular teacher cast them in their first school play. “He did so much more than a teacher should,” Mark says. “I can’t act,” Steve adds, “and he put me in the lead of the play.”

Touring has made them rethink their relationship with home. “I always had this urge to get out of Ireland,” Steve says. “We’ve been all over the world. For me, personally, I love Dublin all the more now.”

Vinny feels the same way. “Every time we get back we don’t want to leave,” he says. With a few hours to their next show, they start thinking about getting back to The Old CIAR AN WARREN

they could hardly believe they were driving through the gates as the band, rather than the audience.

That would be the least of their surreal “is this really happening?” moments. In Los Angeles, they met Garret “Jacknife” Lee, an Irish record producer who has worked with U2, Snow Patrol and Taylor Swift; he agreed to help them produce their second album.

Jacknife introduced them to Snow Patrol’s Johnny McDaid, a fellow Irishmen who is engaged to actress Courteney Cox. And that’s how Monica from Friends came to direct their latest music video. Another introduction led Steve to co-write a song with One Direction’s teen heartthrob Harry Styles.

Kodaline still doesn’t get a lot of airplay on US radio, so they’re building a following the old-fashioned way – one town at a time. The upside: on this, their third headline tour here, they get to see a lot of this vast country. “I feel like an alien in an alien world in Los Angeles,” Mark says. “There’s a whole plastic side of it.” But now that he’s made friends there, he can’t wait to get back. However, they’ve all fallen in love with Austin, Texas.

“It feels most like Ireland, the people are really friendly,” Mark

Above, Kodaline get their groove on, their current tour having taken them across Europe and the US.

School House in Swords. “That’s my favourite pub in the world,” Mark says.

“Swords is so handy from the airport. My dad picks me up every single time. It’s 15 or 20 minutes from the plane to my house.”

They often get asked about where to go in Ireland. “Dingle is the most beautiful spot ever,” Steve says. Mark loves the Aran Islands and the wildness of the west coast.

“I think you have to go to all three Aran Islands,” he says. “I went to the Gaeltacht five years in a row on the Aran Islands.” Vinny tells people to spend time in the capital, and also takes his own advice. “There’s no place like Dublin in the summer,” he says. “South William Street on a sunny day is the best place in the world.”

Kodaline play Cork’s Live at the Marquee on June 25 (sold out), Dublin’s IMMA on June 26 and at the Galway International Arts Festival on July 17-18 (sold out); kodaline.com

On the road essentials ...

Around twelve people travel on Kodaline’s tour bus, and they’ve each found ways to keep themselves amused. Vinny has a PlayStation, and Steve always packs a few travel adapters – and has a habit of buying fresh socks and boxer shorts every day. “We also bring Barry’s tea,” Mark says. “Our fans have copped on and we now have loads of boxes.”

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ON THE TOUR BUS… “It can be hard to get privacy,” says Mark. “We’re lucky that we get on well as a band and crew.”

But all that downtime can wear anyone down, he admits. “The one hour on stage is the easy part.” Vinny’s tip for instant privacy: “I have a good set of headphones for watching TV with my laptop.” Steve likes to chill out behind a pair of shades when he needs some alone time, and he recently Skyped his sister while the bus cruised across Brooklyn Bridge.

ON SCREEN… “The Lego Movie is a masterpiece,” Steve says. Jay watches HBO’s fantasy series Game of Thrones, right, Fox’s animated sitcom Bob’s Burgers, and, like Mark, also the house-makeover show Grand Designs. Vinny loves the Disney movie Up, Brit TV series Peaky Blinders – “anything but horror.”

ON THE TABLE… They take a NutriBullet blender with

them wherever they go. “You can eat so much pizza and s*** like deep-fried, amazingly ridiculous dough balls covered in sugar and covered in maple syrup,” Mark says. So they keep fresh fruit and vegetables handy and blend them up. “I wish someone would create a cookbook for touring bands,” Steve adds. (Kodaline fans, take note.)

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BEHIND THE SCENESTERS

Irish TV and cinema is in rude health. Ed Power goes behind the camera to meet the often unsung heroes. Photographs by Eilish McCormick.

T

his is a golden age for Irish cinema and television. Michael Fassbender, Jack Reynor and Saoirse Ronan are among the legion of Irish actors to have conquered Hollywood. Song of the Sea, from Kilkenny’s Cartoon Saloon, is still basking in an Oscar nomination.

Shot across Dublin and Wicklow, TV hits such as Penny Dreadful, Vikings and Ripper Street have showcased not only our beautiful countryside but the breadth of our behind-the-scenes talent.

The upswing is, in part, testament to progressive State support, at the centre of which is an innovative tax regime offering substantial advantages over UK and continental schemes. However, Irish talent is also being increasingly valued internationally – with Irish performers, in particular, among the most highly rated in the business.

“The Irish just stand up and start acting,” says leading casting director John Hubbard. “Whereas the English have to go drama school and have all the shyness

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kicked out of them. There is something about Irish actors that is very, very easy to like.”

“Irish crews are world class,” adds Wicklow stuntwoman Eimear O’Grady. “They are up to date with the latest technologies and techniques, which is a reason why people are coming to Ireland.

Necessity is the mother of invention and Irish film crews are excellent at finding solutions.”

By any standard, the lift-off in the sector is breath-taking. In 2013, film and TV generated some €500 million and directly employed nearly 7,000, a jump of 20 per cent from 2008. Then, last month, it was announced that Britain’s biggest and best-known film studios, Pinewood, is launching a full service outpost in Ireland. This is accompanied by a take-off in indigenous production, with €195 million spent on homegrown films and television last year.

Especially heartening is the fact that Ireland is no longer looked upon as merely a quaintly rustic backdrop. For Sky-Showtime co-production Penny Dreadful, for instance, entire Dublin

neighbourhoods were transformed into uncanny facsimiles of Victorian London. The city has also served as a setting for action movies (Steven Soderbergh’s Haywire) and arthouse cinema (This Must Be the Place, handing a starring role to the gleaming Aviva Stadium).

That isn’t to say our epic natural landscapes have been overlooked.

Much of the aesthetic impact of Game of Thrones can surely be attributed to the stark beauty of Northern Ireland; similarly when JJ Abrams, director of the forthcoming Star Wars reboot The Force Awakens required an awe-inducing hideaway for Luke Skywalker, Co Kerry’s brooding Skellig Michael topped his wish-list.

But while the profile of Irish stars has soared, much of the credit must go to the off-camera talent.

From casting agents to special effects teams and set designers, these behind-the-scenes figures are valued for their professionalism and ability to innovate. And, being Irish, more often or not they go about their job with a smile and a healthy sense of derring-do.

Eimear O’Grady Stuntwoman

Eimear O’Grady would like to make one thing clear. She may be a professional stuntwoman – but she is in no way an adrenaline junkie, recklessly addicted to danger.

“I am the complete opposite of that,” says the 30-something Wicklow native, whose credits include Penny Dreadful and Vikings. “Adrenaline is not your friend. It heightens everything. You need to have completed your homework before you even get to the stunt. That way, every eventuality is taken care of and adrenaline doesn’t interfere with your performance.” O’Grady jokes that she “fell” into the business.

She studied cello, then attended the Gaiety School of Acting in Dublin. But O’Grady also had a background in spring-board diving and swimming – she knew how to tumble from great heights gracefully.

Her first professional gig was a Guinness commercial – she was required to leap from a crane into a pile of cardboard boxes, wearing a red silk dress. Her career quickly took off, with television especially receptive to her talents: BBC drama The Silence (where she was knocked down by a car), Camelot, The Tudors and the Irish-filmed, French language Astérix and Obélix: God Save Britannia. “A new wave of TV shows has emerged in Ireland. I went into Penny Dreadful to work for a day in September – and ended up leaving in March.” The most important quality in a stuntperson, she feels, is an appreciation that your work will be seen on screen. You’re not there to showcase your courage or steely nerves – it is your responsibility to give a performance that will resonate with the audience. “When I’m on camera I’m not up there as Eimear O’Grady, stuntwoman,” she says. “I’m performing as a character. So you’ve got to have an understanding of that.

Awareness is the number one thing.”

PEOPLE

Ed Bruce

Visual effects Ed Bruce is a doyen of visual effects in Ireland. Visual effects (VFX) supervisor at Screen Scene post-production in Dublin, he has worked on such major international productions as Game of Thrones and Ripper Street, and is currently overseeing the Frankenstein Chronicles, a Gothic thriller starring Sean Bean and set in 19th-century London.

“Over the last 15 years the industry has grown considerably,” he says. “And within the last five years visual effects has really started to grow much stronger.

Bigger projects have been coming into Ireland and thus the drive for more crew and artists into the profession. In Screen Scene we have run many internships to train young Irish people into the sector.

A large percentage of our VFX crew tend to come from overseas.

That has to change, and slowly is.” He is perhaps best known for Game of Thrones, the ratingsgobbling sword and sorcery saga partly filmed in Northern Ireland.

“As soon as the first episode aired, social media went wild. It felt like overnight it became the biggest TV series ever. The books have a massive following. We didn’t know if that would translate to TV viewers. With each episode and now seasons it is very clear how huge it’s become. I’ve worked on many films and TV shows, but am more often than not asked about Game of Thrones. It’s fantastic.”

He adds: “Myself and Screen Scene VFX have just finished working on season five. The audience certainly has a treat in store. It’s going to be spectacular.”

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PEOPLE

Consolata Boyle Costume designer

Costume designer Consolata Boyle has one of the most important and under-appreciated jobs in cinema – ensuring characters’ dress accurately reflects a movie’s theme and setting. “Audiences can absolutely tell if something is wrong with the way characters are dressed,” says the Dublin native. “The power of costume is never given credit. It has such subtle power – it’s a visual medium and absolutely vital in telling the story. It has the power to do good, the power to reveal, the power to destroy. All told, it’s pretty awesome.” Boyle is one of the most in-demand costume designers in the industry. Her credits include The Queen, Philomena, The Iron Lady, Angela’s Ashes and the forthcoming Antonio Banderas/ Rupert Everett feature Altamira.

A graduate of University College Dublin, her introduction to the industry was via an apprenticeship course at the Abbey, the national theatre, where she learned about set design and costume. She later went to the UK and studied historical textile design and began working with Channel 4. On set, she has a collaborative relationship with the actor and directors. She cites as an example her work with Judi Dench and director Stephen Frears on Philomena. “You work together closely and out of that comes a coherent vision,” she says. “People sometimes think it is easier to design a costume for a contemporary project rather than a historical one.

In fact, because there is that slight distance from the past, you have more room to manoeuvre with something historical.” She’s based in Dublin and feels Irish cinema and television are in rude health.

“Some fascinating projects are being made in Ireland – they are rich and complex, important and diverse.

We’re at a very important juncture, doing some very interesting work.”

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Ros and John Hubbard Casting directors Stardom aside, a curious fact unites Kate Winslet, Colin Farrell and Orlando Bloom – all were discovered by internationally esteemed husband-and-wife casting team Ros and John Hubbard. Ros, from Ranelagh, Dublin, believes that being Irish makes her better at her job.

“You are friendly and probably a bit more motherly and warmer when the actor walks in. They are at ease.

Also, the Irish are good travellers – we understand different accents and dialogues.” Though based in London, Ros and John spend much of the year in Ireland (they keep a house in Dingle). In the early 1990s they temporarily relocated here to cast Alan Parker’s The Commitments. More recently, they were instrumental in the rise of Irish heartthrob of the moment Aidan Turner, putting him forward for a break-out role in Peter Jackson’s Hobbit movies. Sometimes, says Ros, you simply know star power when you see it. “Kate Winslet, Jonathan Rhys Meyers, Colin Farrell – we met them and just sensed this was the future.” Along with actors from Britain and Scandinavia, the Irish are highly sought after in Hollywood. “The Brits, the Irish, the Danes and Swedes, they are going for the same parts as Americans and getting through with sheer ability,” says John. “They are getting through by just being better and more disciplined.” Inevitably, there are performers the Hubbards have passed up on, only to watch from afar their ascent to stardom. “I’ve met actors who can’t act at all at 17,” says Ros. “You get them at 20 and they’re brilliant.” John adds: “Or, you come across actors who start very well, then they have misunderstood how it works and have misbehaved.

Five or six years later and they understand it and are brilliant.”

JUNE 2015

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PEOPLE

Annie Atkins

Production design Graphic designer Annie Atkins became somewhat of an overnight sensation earlier this year when she won an Oscar for her work on Wes Anderson’s The Grand Budapest Hotel. Dublin-based Atkins was part of a team that received the award for best production design.

“As a graphic designer for film your job is to work for the production designer, the set decorator and the prop master – who are all working to create a world that the actors and director can work in and believe in,” she says. “A piece of graphic design could be something as simple as a hand-written note, or something as large as neon shopfront signage” – and what you end up making all depends on the period and style of the movie that the director is making. She is proud to be part of a filmmaking tradition stretching back decades. “There have always been graphic designers on film sets. Some of my very favourite graphic props are from old musicals. Remember the tape measure Mary Poppins uses to measure herself with? Instead of her height, the close-up shows it saying: ‘Mary Poppins: perfect in every way’. That’s a good example of an inventive graphic prop.” Atkins is from Wales and has been based in Ireland through her career. She feels no need to go anywhere else. “We make a lot of costume drama here in Ireland, as we have a combination of great locations and great art departments. Sometimes I get emails from design students saying, ‘I should go to Hollywood, right?’ and I’m like, ‘God, I’ve never set foot in Hollywood in my life so I can’t advise you there!’ It sounds like it would be a good adventure. At the moment I’m lucky because I’m making some pieces for Ang Lee’s new film [Billy Lynn’s Long Halftime Walk], which is being shot in Atlanta. I’m working from right here in Dublin.”

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In Ireland

rsa.ie

PEOPLE

Gerry Grennell Voice coach

Voice coach Gerry Grennell has collaborated with practically every movie star of note of the past 20 years. “I’ve had the very good fortune to work with and observe many great actors,” he says. “These include Johnny Depp, Heath Ledger, Meryl Streep, Bruce Willis, Natalie Portman and Tom Cruise.” His job description is a bit of a catch-all. In addition to helping with accents, voice projection and so forth, the Dubliner teaches performance technique and assists actors in getting beneath the skin of their characters through script analysis. “One of the most satisfying things about what I do has to be witnessing g enius first hand,” says Grennell, whose projects include recent box office juggernaut Avengers: Age of Ultron. “And pretending to myself, for a fleeting moment, that I might have had something to do with it.”

Grennell also overseas the training programme at the new Academy for Screen Acting at Bow Street, Dublin. “The film industry in Ireland punches well above its weight with an enviable list of great actors and directors, past and present,” he says. “I’m delighted to be a part of a whole new movement in the business.” For all his success there have been difficult times too.

One stands out especially. “After all these years there’s been only one occasion when I came close to quitting and that was after the tragic loss of my dear friend Heath Ledger. I have our mutual friend [actress] Abbie Cornish and my amazing wife Róisín to thank for encouraging me not to do so.”

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PHOTOGRAPHS PAUL SHERWOOD

French health food company joins Ireland’s business boom The land of ‘céad míle fáilte’ has flung its arms open to thousands of international companies, thanks to Ireland’s amazing business landscape that includes a young, talented and highly-educated workforce.

hrough the Succeed in Ireland initiative, delivered

by ConnectIreland in partnership with IDA Ireland, a further 40 small and medium-sized companies have decided to establish in Ireland.

These international companies, which were looking at expanding elsewhere, were convinced to locate their new operations in Ireland after an introduction was made by a friend, family member or business contact.

Over 1,200 jobs are being created right across the country as a result. Most recently a French health food company established their new European hub in Dublin. Passion Spiruline, a superfood company, which already distributes into the UK, Western Europe and Australian markets will create thirteen jobs in the coming three years. Five of these jobs are already in place.

The company produces and sells the Spirulina supplement, an iron-rich health food and dietary supplement, in a variety of forms, including petals, nibs and crunchies. For St Patrick’s Day, they produced a celebratory green ale in collaboration with the Independent Brewing Company, combining the health benefits and vibrant colour of the supplement with the passionately brewed Irish beer.

Commenting on the expansion, Alois Medee, director of Passion Spiruline, says: “We are delighted to have settled in the heart of Dublin City. Being in Ireland will enable us to grow our operations and expand our commercial efforts into other English-speaking countries. This

T

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JUNE 2015

can only be done by benefiting from a highly-skilled local workforce.

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They have been a tremendous help to us, most significantly giving important advice and putting us in contact with the right people and organisations, thereby helping us grow our business here in Ireland.”

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“After a careful analysis of different

Passion Spiruline’s director/CFO Alois Medee (far left) and development director Renaud d’Avout d’Auerstaedt (far right), show their product to Richard Bruton TD – minister for jobs, enterprise and innovation – and ConnectIreland’s COO Joanna Murphy.

potential host countries, we decided Ireland would best fit our needs as a dynamic food start-up with a European reach.”

Passion Spiruline was introduced to ConnectIreland by a friend who considered Ireland the best location for their business. If you believe that Ireland is the right business environment for international companies, reach out to your network and see if they know of, or work in, a company considering European expansion. Put ConnectIreland in touch with the company and let us do the rest.

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CULTURE | DUBLIN

In Ulysses, Joyce described the sea at Dublin’s Sandycove as “snotgreen” – it looks pretty blue to us (he also described it as “scrotumtightening”)

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LET’S Parts of Dublin have hardly changed since the day James Joyce left his native city. Karl Whitney visits haunts of the great writer, in preparation for the the annual Ulysses homage – Bloomsday – on June 16. Photographs by David Sciora and Piotr Dybowski.

JUNE 2015

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CULTURE | DUBLIN

’m standing on the stone roof of a 19th-century Martello tower as Robert Nicholson raises a powder-blue flag up a pole. The tower is famous: it features in the opening section of Joyce’s novel Ulysses and has, since the 1960s, housed a museum dedicated to the writer.

Nicholson is the curator of the James Joyce Tower and Museum in Sandycove (jamesjoycetower.com), along the coast south of Dublin city.

I ask him how the flag was chosen.

“This is the only one mentioned in Ulysses”, he explains. “It’s the Munster flag, with th ree golden crowns in a blue field.” Munster is the province of Ireland from which James Joyce’s father hailed. The flag reaches the top of the pole and hangs limp in the still, sunny morning.

The tower was constructed as a defence against invasion during the Napoleonic wars but never saw action – unless you count the night Joyce stayed there and a fellow guest opened fire in the main chamber.

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High profile – James Joyce takes pride of place on North Earl Street.

Above, Karl Whitney takes a Joycean eye’s view of Dublin.

Every June 16 – the date on which Ulysses is set and which is known as Bloomsday after one of the novel’s central characters, Leopold Bloom – fans of the book and even those who have never read it dress up in period costume and read portions of the novel to one another in locations mentioned in the work. (Ulysses was published in 1922 but is set in the Dublin of 1904.)

Even without the re-enactments of Bloomsday, Dublin can feel like a city where Joyce is never far away.

Once you’ve read any of his work, it can often seem like you’re retracing his steps and seeing the city through his eyes. Joyce’s writings can shape your perception of the city.

This uncanny feeling is nowhere more obvious than in Sweny’s pharmacy (sweny.ie) on Lincoln Place, near Trinity College. Sweny’s

features in Ulysses, when the character Leopold Bloom visits to buy some lemon-scented soap. You can still buy the soap here but it’s no longer a licensed pharmacy. Instead it deals in new and second-hand books and is more likely to prescribe reading at length from Joyce’s works – it holds reading groups every day of the week, including ones in German and Italian.

Inside, behind the dark wood counter, surrounded by glass cabinets and mirrors, is PJ Murphy, who is wearing a colourful dickie bow and a long white coat of the kind a chemist might have worn in 1904. He recounts the history of the building and how artists used to live above the pharmacy. Is it possible Joyce knew someone who lived there? “He probably did know somebody,” he says. “Joyce tended to put people he knew in his books,

BAR CRAWL “Good puzzle would be to cross Dubli n without passing a pub”, the character Leopold Bloom muses in Ulysses. In 2014 computer programmer Rory McCann solved this conundrum, with a route from Stoneybatter to Mount Street.

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CULTURE | DUBLIN

Six Bloomsday things to do ...

1

Eat at Davy Byrne’s pub In Ulysses, Leopold Bloom stops at Davy Byrne’s pub for a glass of Burgundy wine and a gorgonzola cheese sandwich. You can follow Bloom’s lead: €5.50 and red wine by the glass starts at €5.90. (21 Duke Street, 01 677 5217; davybyrnes.com)

2

Take a walking tour On June 16, the James Joyce Centre will run guided Joycean jaunts around the city throughout the day, plus host readings from Joyce, and a Bloomsday breakfast.

(35 North Great George’s Street, 01 878 8547; jamesjoyce.ie)

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3

Climb the Joyce Tower at Sandycove The opening section of Ulysses takes place in the Martello tower at Sandycove at 8am. Take an early-morning trip from the city then stroll to the seafront towards the Joyce Tower and Museum (Sandycove Point, Co Dublin, 01 280 9265; jamesjoycetower.com), where readings will be held on Bloomsday.

Linger by the exhibits, which include Joyce’s guitar and a tie given by the author to Nobel Prize-winner Samuel Beckett.

4

Hang around the National Library There’s a lot of hanging around in Ulysses.

A section of the novel takes place at the

National Library, and Joyce spent his fair share of time here as a student. In the magnificent reading room on Bloomsday are performances of Joyced!, a one-woman show performed by Katie O’Kelly, at 2pm and 7pm; €10 on the door.

(Kildare Street, 01 603 0200; nli.ie)

5

Hear Stephen Fry At 8pm on June 16, actor, writer and raconteur Stephen Fry joins the Dublin Joycean senator David Norris in the O’Reilly Theatre at Belvedere College (Great Denmark Street), to discuss, in Fry’s words “Joyce, Dublin, literature and of course the incomparable Ulysses”. (Tickets €25/€22.50 from bloomsdayfestival.ie)

and his parents themselves lived on this street.”

Deirdre Daly is an accountant who used to walk past Sweny’s and see the listings for the reading groups in Sweny’s window.

Originally from Galway, she had moved to Dublin for university and had been interested in Joyce’s writings since then. “I read Ulysses in college, but you can only get so far on your own. I used to live on Lower Grand Canal Street, so I used to walk by Sweny’s all the time and see signs saying: ‘Thursday reading group, 7pm Ulysses’. I went there one evening, and it was so much fun and welcoming. We read aloud. It’s not an academic discussion: let’s laugh at the dirty jokes, let’s marvel at the beauty of the language without being reverential. It’s not like a church where we study at the altar of Joyce.”

Reading the text at Sweny’s sounds like a lot of fun, but I wonder whether Joyce is less fun, and more intimidating, if you are an up-and-coming writer in the city. I go to Lilliput Press, an independent publisher whose offices, in the hip Stoneybatter area, double as a bookshop (lilliputpress.ie) The publisher and founder, Antony Farrell, who has published editions of Joyce’s books alongside new work by contemporary writers such as Donal Ryan and Kevin Power, says of Joyce: “I think he’s a hard act to follow. Ulysses is the supreme novel of the 20th century. But he’s an inspiration to most people.”

A vibrant literary scene has taken hold in recent years in the city. Rob Doyle, whose incendiary debut novel about Dublin, Here are the Young Men, was published by Lilliput last year, says of Ulysses: “There’s a wonderful electrifying thrill in it. You’re reading about your own city given back to you in this high literary form.”

Thomas Morris, a Welsh writer and editor who moved to Dublin for university (and “to find an Irish wife”), edited Dubliners 100, issued in 2014 by the new independent publisher Tramp Press

(tramppress.com). It’s a collection of rewrites, or “cover versions”, by contemporary Irish writers of stories from Joyce’s debut Dubliners, which had been published a century before.

It wasn’t a reverential work, Morris says: “Joyce is important but he’s not the be-all and end-all; he’s not the most important writer – there are always other writers. It was the chance to have fun with Joyce.”

Susan Tomaselli’s Dublin-based Gorse journal (gorse.ie) is published twice a year, its experimental writing standing out from other local publications. She says that she “felt there was room to take a little more risk”. The author of Ulysses isn’t, she adds, particularly influential on the current crop of Irish writers.

“I don’t think Joyce is the

Opposite, Marsh’s Library is a bibliophile’s dream. Top, Antony Farrell of Lilliput Press, middle, Joyce immortalised at the Joyce Tower and Museum, and, right, the past and present collide in historic Dublin city.

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Eat at …

HAUTE CUISINE Parnell Square hosts a number of literary attractions, including the Irish Writers Centre (irishwriterscentre. ie) – which frequently holds events showcasing the best of contemporary writing – and the Dublin Writers Museum (writersmuseum.com). In the basement below the museum is Chapter One, an elegant, Michelinstarred restaurant that specialises in haute cuisine using the best of Irish ingredients. Their four-course dinner menu is €70; two course lunch menu is €30. (18-19 Parnell Square North, 01 873 2266; chapteronerestaurant.com) HIP ASIAN In the south city’s bustling Camden Street you’ll find buzzy Neon, which specialises in Asian street food served up informally at its long communal table. Meals come with a free dessert: unlimited ice-cream, self-served from the restaurant’s own machine. For a starter, main meal and a drink you’ll pay around €20.

(17 Camden Street, 01 405 2222; neon17.ie) CAFÉ The Fumbally is a hopping café in the historic Liberties area (a young Joyce wandered these streets around 1902). There are excellent vegetarian options, almost everything’s made in house, including cold-pressed juices, and the falafel, and Fumbally Eggs, are specialities.

Sandwiches from €6-7. (Fumbally Lane, 01 529 8732; thefumbally.ie)

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Close encounters – St Patrick’s Cathedral and Marsh’s Library are within a strawhat’s throw of each other. Below, an archive copy of Cara magazine is spot-lit at the grand National Library of Ireland.

influence. I think it’s Europe. It’s America. It’s South America. It’s the internet.”

I climb the steps to Marsh’s Library (marshlibrary.ie), an elegant redbrick building dating from the 18th century that stands next to St Patrick’s Cathedral. I am back on the trail of Joyce. He visited the library on two consecutive days in 1902, signing the register book. As part of the library’s exhibition about

Joyce a facsimile of this book sits in a glass case, alongside the towering dark wooden shelves that run the length of the building. Near the rear of the library are caged alcoves into which some readers were locked while consulting books.

Based on references to the library in his works, it seems that Joyce came to Marsh’s to look at books by Catholic heretics that were unavailable elsewhere. The Keeper of Marsh’s Library, Dr Jason McElligott, says “we know from the visitors’ register that Joyce came in on two days in 1902, October 22 and 23. On the second day he came in, three people were in. The first name there is Thornley Stoker, the eldest brother of [Dracula author] Bram Stoker.”

The National Library of Ireland on Kildare Street holds a considerable archive of Joyce’s papers (nli.ie). It also features in Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man and Ulysses, the latter featuring librarians who would have worked there in 1904 as characters. I am not here to visit

CULTURE | DUBLIN

the cavernous reading room where Joyce would have spent his time – instead, I go upstairs to meet Colette O’Flaherty, the head of special collections at the library.

On the table in front of us is a large blue box. She opens it and says: “This is the very first copy [of Ulysses], number one, of the first edition.” On publication in February 1922, Joyce had written, on an inside page, a couple of lines dedicating the book to his patron Harriet Weaver. In 1952, Weaver presented the copy to the National Library, having written in her own dedication below that of Joyce.

In visiting these places, I am conscious that my journey is something of a pilgrimage – that

I am retracing the steps of Joyce. Because many of the places I visit were almost identical in Joyce’s day, it often feels strangely like you have arrived just as Joyce left.

But Joyce hasn’t set foot in Dublin in more than 100 years. He moved away with his partner Nora in 1904 and never returned to the city after 1912. He died in 1941, in Zurich. Yet his work focused solely on Dublin – shaped by his own memories and the inquiries he made by letter to his aunt Josephine, letters I saw in the National Library.

At the James Joyce Centre,

in was ever destroyed, the CAPITAL GAINS Joyce once boasted that if Dubl rate is his rendering city could be reconstructed from his works, so accu Irish Civil War in the early of streets, houses and people. By the end of the and many of the buildings 1920s, much of O’Connell Street was destroyed, late 1920s onwards. you now see are reconstructions built from the Steps ahead – Amy Herron, above, of the Irish Writers Centre.

Left, the very first copy of Ulysses, at the National Library of Ireland.

Right, Dublin’s iconic Ha’penny Bridge.

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Stay at ...

SPLURGE In the heart of Dublin’s Georgian southside, the Merrion Hotel is a refined, fivestar choice near the Government Buildings. It’s also around the corner from the elegant, treelined Merrion Square and the National Gallery.

Look for the Joyce statue in the hotel’s gardens.

Double rooms from €240. (Upper Merrion Street, 01 603 0600; merrionhotel.com)

MID-RANGE Close to the National Library and directly across the road from the Irish Parliament, Buswell’s Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in the city. Occupying a terrace of Georgian houses, it provides an ideal base for exploring Joycean Dublin. Double rooms from €169. (23-27 Molesworth Street, 01 614 6500; buswells.ie)

BUDGET On the banks of the Grand Canal, a ten-minute walk from the city centre, the Mespil Hotel provides comfortable, bright and spacious accommodation. The canal bank was a favourite haunt of Patrick Kavanagh and a bronze statue of the poet sitting on a bench can be seen opposite the canal. Double rooms from €119.

(Mespil Road, 01 488 4600; mespilhotel.com)

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ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN

housed in a four-storey, Georgian redbrick in the north inner city, I admire the Joycean straw boater hats and Joyce finger puppets in the gift shop, before going on a guided tour around the area with one of the centre’s guides, James Quinn. The north inner city was Joyce’s home territory, where his family moved to once his father’s fortunes began to turn sour. Joyce went to school here, lived here and his books revisit the area obsessively.

Every so o ften, Quinn stops, fishes a book from his backpack, and reads aloud from a passage Above, James Joyce Centre tour guide James Quinn waxing lyrical. Below, inside the centre are artefacts belonging to the wordsmith.

that invariably mentions the exact point at which we are standing.

As we walk down O’Connell Street, we are nearing the end of the 90-minute tour. A man in glasses, with a thin moustache, walks alongside and greets us.

He resembles Joyce closely. We continue walking, and he mentions that he made the straw hats I saw in the Joyce Centre. It is John Shevlin, the milliner, who o ften acts as a Joyce impersonator at events in the centre.

Up to now, as I walked the streets of Dublin, I was thinking about Joyce’s life and writing, and the strong imprint he left through his work on the city of his birth. They had acted as a guide, so it seems like the author was walking alongside me all the time.

Follow Karl @karlwhitney

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A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012

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FAMILY | NAPLES

That’s Amore …

Naples with kids? It may not be the most obvious choice, but Frances Power and family fall for the Big Pizza Pie with a wallop. Photographs by Liam Murphy.

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When in Naples ... it’s survival of the fittest on the roads and side streets.

The island of Ischia, where this picture was taken, is no exception.

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Look out! Mopeds here’s no ticket year-old daughter Grace, speak weave in and out office at the Italian but, by day two of our trip, of laundry-strung Mineralogy we’ve become expert at cornering alleyways of the Museum in a passerby and talking pantomime Centro Storico, below.

Naples, no English until they take us where we queue. Just a want to go. smiley lady at The museum is a gem, a tiny an ordinary office desk. She bustles one, and definitely a hidden one. around, “Biglietto, biglietto,” she A series of rooms opening off each says, looking for her book of tickets other are lined with 19th-century and an English-speaking staff wooden cabinets, where the stones member, fussing over us like we are are set out and labelled. Mineral foreign dignitaries instead of dusty rocks I’ve never heard of such as tourists. But then, we are the only crocidolite, which looks just like visitors in the place.

Brillo pads, spiky grey shards It has taken us 20 minutes of antimonite, and dull stones to hunt down the museum showing shiny splashes of gold.

(Centro Musei delle Grace races from cabinet to FREE RIDE Scienze Naturali e cabinet picking her favourite.

If you’re in Naples for Fisiche; cmsnf.it), which In the end, she settles on three or more days, invest in is tucked away on okenite – a big grey shell an Artecard, which gives adults the third floor of the of rock with little fluffy free entry to three museums and University of Naples. white balls inside. The most public transport for €21; Neither the husband Beanie Boo of the kids go free or half price to most nor I, with our tenrock world.

T

attractions so don’t splash out for them. Buy at museums or campaniartecard.it.

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In one cabinet, huge rocks have been shattered to show off the gob-green sulphur crystals inside.

Grace and I peer at them. “Alora!” says one of the staff and, with a flourish, switches on a cabinet light. The sulphur crystals glow a luminous green.

This mini-museum leads on to the zoological collection where a huge whale skeleton dominates the long room. There are a thousand stuffed animals and the fleshcreeping sight of 2,000 parasitic worms, but the show-stopper for kids has to be the macabre cabinet of genetic mutations, including a big-eyed calf with two faces.

We step back out into the sun and the river of students flooding past on Via Mezzocannone.

Time, we decide, for (another) gelato and a hit of caffè latte.

And time to sit and gawp at the city’s energy. Naples mightn’t be

I

FAMILY | NAPLES

the first place you’d think of for a family holiday. It’s dirty, noisy and chaotic, it has its own mafia and, as for the driving … we lose count of the number of times we flatten ourselves against the peeling façade of a dilapidated palazzo to let a Vespa or Fiat 500 thunder by.

Many visitors, put off by the city’s reputation, head straight for the Amalfi coast and the gentler pace of towns such as Sorrento or Positano – “a fancy sweet box” of a place, as one Italian described it to us – or to the pretty islands hovering just off the coast.

From our ringside seats at Bar Partenopeo (Via dei Tribunali 345) under the run-down arcades on Via dei Tribunali, we agree that to bypass the city would be to miss one of the Great Travel Experiences. The UNESCOprotected Centro Storico, which follows the grid of the Roman city buried underneath, is worth the air fare alone. Its two main streets, the Via dei Tribunali and Spaccanapoli, still mirror the old Roman roads decumanus maior and decumanus 70 |

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inferior underground.

We spend hours exploring – and getting lost in – its narrow streets overhung with crumbling 18th-century houses, strung with washing lines, and jammed with hawkers, school children, workers, waiters carrying trays of coffee and lunatic drivers. It’s a run-down, litter-strewn, graffitiplastered, teeming and somehow magnificent place.

Here and there, street shrines, some as big as garden sheds, are dedicated to Padre Pio, the Virgin or Naples’ own patron saint San Gennaro, and kept decked out in fresh flowers and votive lights. On Via San Gregorio Armeno, wooden nativity scenes with running water and lights are displayed outside the artisan workshops, as well as figurines of El Papa, Kate and Will, Silvio Berlusconi and Italian football players. It’s one huge doll’s house for kids.

The city radiates from the Centro Storico, with Via Toledo, the centre of commerce and shopping, to the west, running

Left, seafood sellers under the arches of Via dei Tribunali.

Chaotic and eclectic street scenes, above, including a shrine on the Piazza Pignasecca, right, and shops on Via San Gregorio Ameno selling figurines – where Pope Francis rubs shoulders with the likes of Lady Gaga.

Bellissimo! Chef Gianpiero Ruocco makes mouths water at pizzeria I Decumani.

Pizza da action ...

Naples is the birthplace of pizza: it’s cheap, it’s a child pleaser and it’s delicious. We never met one we didn’t like …

WE HEART You may have to queue for a table at I Decumani, and then elbow your way to it at this crammed, busy spot but it’s a contender for best pizza in town, so worth a wait. Order a plate of fritto misto (Parmesan-dipped vegg and pizza dough deep-fried) to star and follow with one of their 40 or start be so belt-busting pizzas, all served with a ball of mozzarella in the centre. Prices st at €3.50. (Via dei Tribunali start 58 58-61, +39 081 557 1309). Two other pi greats on the same street are pizza Di Matteo (Via dei Tribunali 94, +39 081 455 262; pizzeriadimatteo. com) and Pizza Gino Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali 32, +39 081 446 643; sorbillo.it).

inland up the hill to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (cir.campania.beniculturali.it/ museoarcheologiconazionale) where you’ll find artefacts from Pompeii on display. Seawards, from the port and west towards Posillipo, the city moves upmarket with five-star hotels such as the Romeo and the restaurants and boutiques of Chiaia and, behind it, the hilltop district of Vómero with its splendid views of the famous bay. Still, it’s easy to lose your bearings.

It happens again the next day, when we’re looking for Ercolano, the modern offshoot of the ancient Roman town of Herculaneum.

As we circle the town’s piazza for the third time, I ask a group of old

men soaking ng up the sun on a bench for directions. Much arm waving follows. One gent jumps into his car, signalling us to follow and guides us for the ten-minute drive before taking his leave with a hearty handshake and big smile.

Herculaneum (pompeiisites.org), like Pompeii, was destroyed when Vesuvius erupted in 79AD. It’s a smaller, quieter and more compact archaeological site than Pompeii and so ideal for a morning’s rambling with kids. It also sits under the shadow of the volcano so you can visit both in one day.

The original Herculaneum was built on the edge of a cliff

less glamorous than SUNNY SIDE UP The island of Ischia is larger but with lots of beaches, then Capri but, if you want a mellow, kid-friendly spot little port on the southern this is the place to head. We loved Sant’ Angelo, a bulges out from the side, protected by a great knob of volcanic rock that y port, but in high season, end of an isthmus. Early in the season, it is a sleep rs. the posh boutiques open and it’s buzzing with visito

CHEAP AND CHEERFUL You’ll CH find great pizza, pasta and, for a chan seafood at a good price in change, Pizzeria Pizz Lombardi, a long-established spot on the edge of the Centro Storico.

Full of locals – always a good sign – and friend waiters with the patience to friendly translate our menu Italian into pizza.

(Via Foria 12/14, +39 081 456 220; pizzerialombardi.it) FANCIER The queues snake around the corner at hotspot 50 Kalò di Ciro Salvo (Piazza Sannazzaro 201/B; 50kalò.it) so if stomachs are grumbling, stroll across to Fratelli La Bufala, a fine alternative with a big menu of fresh pizzas, pasta and imaginative salads, as well as buffalo hamburgers (yep, they don’t just make mozzarella). Prices a bit higher than the norm but then you are in chi-chi Chiaia … (Piazza San Nazzaro 5, fratellilabufala.eu) KIDS’ FAVOURITE A funicular ride away from Via Toledo, Vómero is a quiet residential quarter with fine views of the bay. You’ll also find a great family-friendly trattoria, tables jammed up against each other, service quick and friendly and 40-plus pizzas to choose from at Acunzo.

(Via Cimarosa 60-62, +39 081 578 5362; pizzeriaristoranteacunzo.com) JUNE 2015

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The preserved ruins of Herculaneum – devastated by Vesuvius in 79AD – are as beautiful as they are fascinating.

overlooking the sea, an upmarket seaside settlement with a marina, baths, bakery, restaurant and pubs.

All of which makes it confusing to visit today and you’ll find the sea is some distance from the ruins – the eruption n ot only added some 400 metres of land to the shore but caused the land to drop by about four metres.

The town was buried suddenly and completely under 16 metres of lava, preserving buildings, frescoes and fabrics, even a loaf of bread left out to rise is intact, so you get

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a clear picture of how well-to-do Romans lived. The thermae, or baths, have carved marble benches where the bathers waited, wooden partitioned shelves to fold their clothes on and a mosaic floor depicting Triton, club at the ready, in perfect nick. In the thermopolium, or café, where the locals lunched, huge round jars that would have been filled with that day’s specials are sunk into the counter. We potter around the ruins for the morning, exploring happily; my daughter playing Roman shopkeeper over

the various windows and counters, inspecting the Roman graffiti and chasing lizards.

It used to be thought that most of Herculaneum’s 4,000 inhabitants escaped the eruption.

But since 1980, 300 skeletons have been discovered in the vaulted warehouses on the shore where the boats were stored. They were carrying coins, necklaces and valuables as they tried to escape the blazing hot clouds spewing from Vesuvius. Their skeletons huddled together to escape the furnace are

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Napoli ever after …

Here, Mount Vesuvius, which last erupted in 1944 and is overdue another spew. Right, Fran’s daughter Grace and husband Dave admire the view.

possibly the most poignant part of the visit.

Later, we weave our way slowly uphill to Vesuvius in our rental car. The slopes of Vesuvius are famous for vineyards and the fine Piedirosso and Falanghina wines, a red and a white, as well as the famous Vesuvian tomatoes served up in many a pizza in Naples.

The Via Vesuvius leads through a national park and past many derelict houses and restaurants as the government tries to persuade inhabitants to resettle on safer ground. The last eruption was in 1944 and another is overdue. So it’s reassuring to read in the park brochure that it’s the most studied (and presumably monitored) volcano on earth, with a detailed evacuation plan in place.

The walk from the car park (parconazionaledelvesuvio.it; vesuvioinrete.it) to the crater top

takes about 25 minutes.

A steep path loops back on itself and has jaw-dropping views of the coast. We stop to er look down over the valley, at what seems to be a grey river until the penny drops that it is a now-cooled lava flow winding its way along the bottom of the valley.

At the top, we peer over the edge of the jagged crater, down 230 metres into its centre where lichen and greenery are gaining ground.

Clouds of steam still issue from the fissures. “Epic,” says my proto-teenager.

The next morning, we’re 40 metres underneath Naples in a cavernous space tunnelled out from volcanic rock more than 2,000

li METRO ART ON THE GO Stops on Line 1 and 6 of the Napo g off at gettin worth have been turned into public art, and it’s uets Blanca’s the Toledo stop just to see architect Oscar Tusq n, Karim statio play with water and light. And at Università edelia.

Rashid’s redesign is full-on mind-warping psych

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CENTRAL Slap in the heart of the old CENTR city, Caravaggio Hotel is a good budget opti option for exploring the sights. Located in a refurbed 17th-century palazzo in a tiny piazza off the Via Duomo, rooms are modern and well-sized, with free Wi-Fi in public areas. Rooms from €90. (Piazza Cardinale Sisto Riario Ri Sforza 157, +39 081 2110 066; ca caravaggiohotel.it) BARGAIN Right on the edge of the Centro Storico, this restored, fourstar palazzo of Mgallery Palazzo Caracciolo has 138 rooms wellkitted out with powerful showers, in-roo safes, free Wi-Fi and a real in-room plus pl – hotel parking (for a fee). Families can book adjoining rooms that share a balcony and engage in the Neapolitan pastime of people watching. Rooms from €93. (Via Carbonara 112, +39 081 016 0111; accorhotels.com) CLASSY The Romeo Hotel is a fivestar beauty in the port with an outdoor rooftop pool, so you can keep an eye on Vesuvius while you swim, a games room with glass footie table, even a cigar room.

With 83 rooms, all modernist glass and high art, and a Michelin-star restaurant, this is the spot of the moment. With all this icy coolness, you might think tiny pawprints wouldn’t be welcome. Wrong.

There is a free crèche, babysitters on call (€25 an hour) and a children’s garden room with dolls house. Rooms from €295.

(Via Cristoforo Colombo 45, +39 081 017 5001; romeohotel.it)

The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area

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When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

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Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´

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6 kid magnets ...

1

Ride the funicular Four funiculars run up to the hilltop district of Vómero from stations at Centrale, Chiaia, Mergellina and Montesanto. Kids love them and you can reward yourself with smashing views of the city from Castel Sant’Elmo (a 14th-century castle on Naples’ highest point), and a pizza or gelato before heading back down.

2

Just one Cornetto ... You would be bonkers to leave without sampling at least one gelato (a day). Our favourite was at I Giardini di Cataldo (Via Correale; igiardinidicataldo.it), in Sorrento, an orange and lemon grove where, in the name of research, we sampled limone, pistachio and cioccolato. All before

A vista from Via Marina Grande, Sorrento.

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5

Hail a water taxi Transport on the islands is easier by boat – and an extra thrill for kids. Hail from the beach just as you would a taxi, or book from a hotel or bar; approx €5.

Herculaneum €11 or combined ticket for five sites including Pompeii, €20, valid for five days. Under 18s free if carrying an EU passport. Getting there: from Naples take the Circumvesuviana train from Stazione Centrale to Ercolano Scavi Station; €2.20, about 25 minutes. You can arrange a trip up Vesuvius from here for €10 plus €8 admission fee. (pompeiisites.org)

4

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dinner too. But there are plenty of good neopolitan ones too – Gay-Odin hits the spot with handmade chocolates as well as gelato. (Via Benedetto Croce 61, +39 081 551 0794; gay-odin.it)

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Mount Vesuvius You can buy tickets at Ercolano station for the Vesuvio Express, €10, plus €10 for entry to the volcano. The bus will wait 90 minutes for you. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Naples Stazione Centrale. (parconazionaledelvesuvio.it; vesuvioinrete.it)

Centro Musei delle Scienze Naturali e Fisiche Two other collections, the anthropology and palaeontology museums, are housed in the 16th-century former Jesuit college.

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years ago. Its smooth walls taper up to a funnel-shaped opening with footholds tapped into the rock. If you squint up it, you can see daylight where it opens into the church of San Paolo Maggiore.

“Most houses in Roman times,” says Anna Sigillo, our guide from Napoli Sotteranea tours, “had a well like this.” The Greeks first hollowed out the soft rock underground to build their houses and temples for what they called “Neapolis”. The Romans developed these holes into a sophisticated water system of tunnels and cisterns for their city, which was roughly the size of the present-day Centro Storico.

A jug lowered on a rope down into the cisterns supplied the water for each household’s needs. But the openings also allowed the “pozzari”, or shaft men who maintained the wells, to clamber up and down the footholds to clean the water stored below. It was a tough life and few of them lived beyond 40. But there were compensations – Neapolitans believed that a local saint would leave small gifts in households that were particularly blessed. “It was, in fact,” says Anna, “usually a pozzari leaving a love token for the woman of the house he was having an affair with but it served to make the husband happy too.”

Over the centuries, these underground spaces have been used as catacombs, dumps and air-raid shelters, piling layer upon layer of history. We see one that was used in the Second World War, with dustcovered toys and a sewing machine scattered around. Scratched on the wall is one word, Aiuto, “Help”.

Anna lights each of us a candle and leads through a warren of narrow tunnels, turning left and right, up and down steps. The air is black, dense and clammy.

We have to angle sideways and stoop to get through some of the tunnels. “Mum, it’s like just like the Mountains of Moria in Lord of the Rings,” whispers Grace, delighted.

We keep an ear out for the beating of orc drums …

Up on ground level, it’s time for 78 |

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ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA MACAREE

FAMILY | NAPLES

pizza – a Naples invention, by the way – and another episode of the chaotic soap opera of Neapolitan street life. Naples has buckets of charm. The Centro Storico is full of a magic that will delight older kids; its faded piazzas and palazzi are beautiful, and it hasn’t yet been polished and packaged up for tourists. Yes, it could do with a lick of paint and some tarmac in its potholes, a few lane markings and the odd signpost. But then you wouldn’t get lost half as often, and where would be the fun in that?

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STREET LIFE | TORONTO

VIEWS FROM THE 6IX Toronto is best experienced neighbourhood by neighbourhood. Resident Julie Baldassi picks the best places off the tourist track to enjoy the city’s “right now” culture and cuisine. Photographs by David Giral.

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On trend – opposite, the Frank Gehrydesigned Art Gallery of Ontario in Grange Park, and this page, Rohan Ramsay at the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCCA).

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My hometown of Toronto rarely gets enough credit for its attractions.

In part, that’s because Torontonians – Drake, notwithstanding – are often humble, if not downright passive, about hyping our USPs. But it’s also because Toronto’s best “attractions” aren’t tourist attractions of the traditional fare: you may visit New York City to walk past the Chelsea Hotel, a place that legends such as Bob Dylan and Patti Smith called home; in Toronto, you should visit the Comedy Bar on Bloor Street (comedybar.ca) to get a taste of the city’s exploding comedy scene or hit the Art Gallery of Ontario’s First Thursdays party series and hang out with the city’s culturati (ago.net). Experiencing Toronto’s most interesting culture means immersing yourself in what’s happening right now.

There’s no better way to experience a city than to do as the local does – and you can take this local’s word for it that the best way to experience Toronto is neighbourhood by neighbourhood. It’s often said that Toronto is a “city of neighbourhoods”, which is another way of saying that you’ll enter a new microcosm of a Toronto archetype every few blocks. The Junction is synonymous with latte-sipping yuppies and strollers; Kensington Market with ageing hippies and art school students. You get the picture.

In the downtown core, Kensington Market is one of the most distinctive spots to visit on foot. On Sundays, the area is closed to car traffic but it remains pedestrian-friendly all seven days of the week, with produce markets and vintage shops spilling out into the sidewalks. Historically, Kensington has been the landing spot for the city’s waves of immigrant populations, a fact that invariably results in at least two things: delicious cuisines from around

M

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True colours – Kensington Market is a feast for the eyes.

Above, on-theground writer and filmmaker Julie Baldassi offers us a grand tour of Toronto.

the globe and the cheap-rentloving creative class. While gentrification usually takes hold of such neighbourhoods, Kensington is something of an anomaly. The ‘hood has been resistant to corporate mega-chains and each new population seems to make its mark while leaving room for the old. The Latin American community blessed the area with the delicious cheap-tacos-and-cervesa joint, a fixture called El Trompo (277 Augusta Avenue, +1 416 260 0097; eltrompo.ca). The hipsters have lately delivered spots like the darkand-cool bar Ronnie’s Local 069 (69 Nassau Street, +1 416 340 1110), much loved in the summer time for its patio of large, communal picnic tables that encourage fraternisation with all sorts, and wide variety of craft brews. There’s also the Scandinavian-inspired FIKA Café (28 Kensington Avenue; fika.ca), which offers tasty treats such as the

cardamom spiced latte and lavender white hot chocolate. FIKA’s cool, minimalist design also lends itself to being what one Yelp user accurately described as “the best place to chill”.

Kitty-corner to Kensington is Chinatown, which spills out on either side of Spadina Road between Queen and College Streets. Like Kensington, Chinatown’s shops creep out into the sidewalk, offering an array of cheap tchotchkes and delicious eats. Not to be missed is the restaurant Mother’s Dumplings (421 Spadina Avenue, +1 416 217 2008; mothersdumplings.com) for hand-made dim sum, and Banh Mi Boys (392 Queen Street West, +1 416 363 0588; banhmiboys.com) for a twist on the classic Vietnamese sandwich. Like any good Canadian establishment, Banh Mi Boys offers a poutine-inspired concoction: the deadly-delicious kimchi fries is a mound of potato fries (chips) topped with kimchi, pulled pork, green

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June highlights ...

LISTEN June is a month full of Toronto’s best music festivals, from the Jazz Fest (June 18-29; torontojazz.com) to the film and music event NXNE (June 17-21; nxne.com). This summer Bestival Toronto make its debut at Toronto Island (June 12-13, bestival.ca), boasting a stellar line-up including acts Florence + The Machine, Caribou, Jamie xx, and Montreal band, TOPS.

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SEE For sports fanatics and adrenaline junkies, the Honda Indy is a must. The annual event of world-class race car competition takes place June 12-14, on a street course in downtown Toronto, with stretches along the picturesque Lakeshore Boulevard. For the less car-enthused, the event also features food trucks, craft beer and live entertainment. hondaindytoronto.com

DO Each year, Toronto’s annual Pride Week kicks off the beginning of summer with a ten-day festival (June 19-28) to celebrate the city’s LGBTQ community. It has been an annual event since 1981, and has become one of the largest gay pride parades in the world – and offers some of the city’s liveliest dance parties. (pridetoronto.com)

Take a load off at Sugar Beach, whose snazzy LED pink parasols, costing a rumoured CAD$12k each, have been somewhat divisive.

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STREET LIFE | TORONTO

onions, and house mayo.

In addition to offering delicious eats eats, the area is also home to two of the city’s most legendary venues. venu The El Mocambo (464 Spadina Avenue, +1 647 748 6969; 69 elmocambo.ca) famously hosted ho a 1977 Rolling Stones show where Margaret Trudeau, the th estranged wife of the thenprime pr minister, danced her heart out ou and cosied up with Mick Jagger.

Ja While the El Mocambo hasn’t ha booked the likes of The Stones St in some time, the equally

Drink at …

LOCAL SPOT With vintage upholstered kitchen chairs and a killer jukebox, Communist’s Daughter is the kind of place where you could hang out all day, with a good book or conversation. And the protagonists of How Should A Person Be? – the memoir/ novel by Toronto legend Sheila Heti – do just that. (1149 Dundas Street West, +1 647 435 0103) CRAFT BREW For craft beers, charcuterie, and a terrific patio, Toronto microbrewery Bellwoods Brewery is a locals’ favourite. Now in its third year of operation, the Ossington brewpub is the only place to get your hands on small-run creative concoctions. (124 Ossington Avenue, +1 416 535 4586; bellwoodsbrewery.com) NIGHT LIFE On a summer’s night, The Rhino is one of the best places to be – owing to its large patio and even larger beer list. In the heart of the hip Parkdale neighbourhood, this is the spot to meet and mingle. (1249 Queen Street West, +1 416 535 8089)

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Left, craft beer heaven at Bellwoods Brewery. Below left, chill-out spot, FIKA Café.

Bottom, buzzy bar Communist’s Daughter.

legendary Horseshoe Tavern (370 Queen Street West, +1 416 598 4226; horseshoetavern.com) is just down the street, and still booking some of the best bands that come to town after more than 60 years. The venue was ahead of its time in the 1970s, booking acts such as MC-5, the Cramps, Talking Heads, Tom Waits, and were the first to bring The Police to Canada. In recent years, the Horseshoe hosted early shows by Arcade Fire and Wilco, and this year has confirmed acts such as Speedy Ortiz, Clap Your Hands Say Yeah and Canadian up-and-comers Braids.

Also not to be missed in the area are two of the city’s coolest art spaces. Kensington’s Videofag (187 Augusta Avenue, +1 647 238 3047) is a store-front cinema and performance space run by one of Canada’s most promising young independent theatre artists, Jordan Tannahill. The other is Chinatown’s 8-11 (233 Spadina Avenue; 8eleven.org), a strange and surreal store-front art collective that gained international attention after music producer and DJ Skrillex Instagrammed a photo of the gallery with a pair of inflatable aliens in the window, and subsequently the convenience store mega-chain 7-Eleven slapped them with a ceaseand-desist order. (The Canadian

STREET LIFE | TORONTO

Clockwise from this picture: Downtown East is full of contrasts; handmade dim sum at Mother’s Dumplings; Type Books is a must-visit for literary fans of all ages – including happy customers Mansour Chatti and pal.

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Left, one of the city’s many street murals. Above, Amber Stafford, of Victoire, a “rock‘n’roll tea party” boutique in Little Italy.

Below, pony signage marks the spot of FIKA Café.

Civil Liberties Association is representing the gallery pro-bono.)

Aside from the splashy news stories, the gallery is hosting events with Toronto’s community of innovative young artists, from exhibitions, performances and screenings, to feminist whiskey-drinking parties, taxidermy sessions and astrological-chart readings. If that’s not enough, the irreverent bunch, led by curator Xenia Benivolski, is rumoured to be installing a sauna in the back yard.

Heading west from Chinatown and Kensington Market, you’ll find hordes of artists and fashion kids in places like Parkdale and the Ossington strip. Parkdale, on West Queen Street West, holds some of the city’s cutest shops, with spots

like the vintage-haven 96 Tears (1714 Queen Street West), and The Future of Frances Watson (1390 Queen Street West, +1 416 531 8892; tfofw.com), which offers an array of brands from hipster staples such as Cheap Mondays and Canadian classics such as OSC Cross and Betina Lou. For more upscale options, hit Ossington hotspot Jonathan + Olivia (49 Ossington Avenue, +1 416 849 5956; jonathanandolivia.com) for brands such as Alexander Wang and Rag & Bone, and Gravitypope (1010 Queen Street West, +1 647 748 5155; gravitypope.com), for fancy footwear.

Sleep at …

BUDGET If you’re looking to do Toronto on a budget, the Canadiana Backpackers Inn is among the best the city has to offer. Located in the heart of downtown, the hostel offers dorm-room beds from less than CAD$30 and CAD$70 for a private room. (42 Widmer Street, +1 416 598 8940; canadianalodging.com) ARTY The Gladstone Hotel is truly a marvel when it comes to boutique hotels – situated in a handsome Victorian building on a trendy stretch of Queen Street West, the spot offers 37 unique, artist-designed rooms to choose from, with a top-notch restaurant, bar and art gallery on the main floor. Rooms from CAD$179 (1214 Queen Street West, +1 416 531 4635; gladstonehotel.com) POSH Located between the financial district and entertainment district, the Shangri-La is Toronto’s swankiest new hotel. Not only is it equipped with floor-toceiling windows, an iPad in each room and an infrared sauna; the Shangri-La is also adjacent to world-renowned chef David Chang’s Momofuku, which houses four different restaurants. Rooms from CAD$355 (188 University Avenue, +1 647 788 8888; shangri-la.com/toronto)

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Heading west also affords the opportunity to enjoy a quintessential Toronto experience: riding the streetcar. As simple as taking public transit sounds, Toronto’s fleet of oldtimey street trolleys feel like they’re from another era – and they are, complete with the 1970s-inspired faux-wood panelling and maroon upholstery. If you head west on the Queen Street or Dundas Street West streetcar, it’s worth a stop at the hipster mecca Trinity Bellwoods, which spans several city blocks.

And, if you take the College Street streetcar, be sure to stop off in Little Italy at the beloved Royal Cinema (608 College Street, +1 416 466 4400; theroyal.to). The refurbished 1930s theatre is a local favourite, with Canadian filmmaker Sarah Polley featuring it in her indie drama Take This Waltz. The Royal is also a post-production studio by day, where esteemed Canadian directors such as Atom Egoyan and Deepa Mehta have mixed and edited their film projects.

While many west-end hipsters will boast about “literally never” going east of the downtown artery Yonge Street, the city’s east end holds some of the prettiest spots.

St James Park (120 King Street East), which is seemingly perpetually rimmed by the trucks and trailers of the city’s burgeoning film and television industry, is a personal favourite. Situated beside the Gothic Revival St James’ Cathedral, the city’s oldest congregation established

ILLUSTRATION BY KATHI BURKE

STREET LIFE | TORONTO

Above left, the Royal Cinema, a refurbished picturehouse dating back to the 1930s.

in 1797, the park is the perfect place to sit down on a bench for a moment’s rest, with the breezy maple trees and picturesque flower garden.

A block away is the St Lawrence Market (92-95 Front Street East, +1 416 392 7219), the city’s largest indoor market, where you’ll find an array of fresh produce, artisanal meats and cheeses and prepared snacks. On the weekends, the adjacent North building is also home to a thriving antiques market.

Whether you’re an east or westender, no Torontonian is too cool for the city’s waterfront, which spans the south end of the city along Lake Ontario. The prettiest spots, of course, are in the east end, at places like Woodbine Beach (1675 Lake Shore Boulevard East). There

MORE BEST BITS Views of the city: From Riverdale Park on Broadview Avenue; Most pedestrian-friendly neighbourhood: Distillery District; Open-air movie screenings: Christie Pitts Park; Indep endent bookstore: Type Books; Cycling path: Waterfront Trail.

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you’ll find sandy beaches and miles of boardwalk to stroll, rollerblade, and bike along the waterfront. Just as lovely are the beaches on the Toronto Island, which are worth the trip if just for the short ferry ride across Lake Ontario. While the island offers plenty of spots to lie and soak up the rays, there’s also plenty to see and do: there are great spots to swim at Gibraltar Point, Ward’s Island, and (clothing optional) Hanlan’s Point; and bikes and canoes can be rented at Centre Island.

Try swapping visits: the CN Tower for Chinatown, or Casa Loma for a stroll along Queen Street West, and you’ll see that, from east to west, Toronto’s got a lot more to offer than the usual tourist brochures profess.

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CITY BREAK | LONDON

THAMES TALES

Art galleries, museums and foodie delights sprinkle the well-heeled neighbourhoods of Kensington and Chelsea.

Neil Hegarty takes his bearings from the meandering River Thames for a two-day odyssey. Photographs by Steve Ryan.

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River run – gems are found while following the Thames through west London.

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CITY BREAK | LONDON

wenty bridges from Tower to Kew / Wanted to know what the River knew…” So wrote Rudyard Kipling in his poem “The River’s Tale”. We are standing on the Embankment at Vauxhall Bridge and looking down on the Thames.

The tide is full, the river is running powerfully – and yes, it’s clear that Kipling was on to something here. You can’t understand London without getting a handle on its river.

We’ve a day on the hoof all planned out, meandering through west London – through wellheeled, prosperous Kensington and Chelsea, beginning and ending here on the Thames – and we kick off by plunging into Tate Britain (tate.org.uk), the cool façade of which rises on the river just behind us. This branch of the Tate empire has been a little eclipsed of late by Tate Modern, a couple of miles downriver – they’re linked by all-day river shuttles, incidentally; great fun – but the splendid collection of British art gathered here has recently been rehung in chronological order, as a sumptuous journey through time; and the building itself, with its spiral terrazzo staircase, great rotunda and Sackler octagon, is spectacular in its own right. We call into the Blake Room – which is virtually empty; we have the poet’s marvellous, fragile engravings all to ourselves.

London, of course, is a great centre for art, in private as well as public galleries. We make our way north through Hyde Park – Kensington Palace is overpriced

T

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and best avoided, but its splendid Orangery (orangerykensingtonpalace. co.uk) is one of the loveliest spaces in London for a snack or lunch – to the Barbara Stanley Gallery (irishartinlondon.com), which for more than a decade has been an elegant stage in Bayswater for Irish artists such as Monica Boyle and Lisa Ballard to exhibit in London.

Barbara herself is from the west of Ireland and Irish painting is her passion. “The growing interest in Irish art has been very exciting,” she says, “and has inspired me to promote Irish artistic talent to a

Top, one of Notting Hill’s multicultural offerings, The Spice Shop.

Above, our man in London, Neil Hegarty.

wider international audience.”

Looking at paintings is hungry work but, happily, Notting Hill is now just a stone’s throw away. The market at Portobello Road is a major tourist draw hereabouts: it’s thronged at weekends but much more manageable during the week, with any number of wonderful small shops along Blenheim Crescent. You can stock up on exotica (dried Iranian limes or za’atar, anyone?) at the fabulous Spice Shop (thespiceshop.co.uk); experience hard-core chocolate heaven at Alexeeva & Jones (alexeevajones.com); and pick up

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CITY BREAK | LONDON

Seasonal London Early summer in London has more than Wimbledon, strawberries and test cricket on offer. This year is the 800th anniversary of the signing of Magna Carta, the founding document of English liberty: visit magnacarta800th.com for

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events throughout the summer. A major retrospective on the British sculptor Barbara Hepworth – the first in 50 years – opens on June 24 at Tate Britain (tate.org.uk). Or kick back with a slow, relaxing cruise up the Thames from

Westminster Pier to Kew, and on to Hampton Court if you like: a superb way to see London from its river. Visit thamesriverboats.co.uk for details of sailings – and visitlondon.com for more details on any of the above.

Kew Gardens provides a great escape from the hustle and bustle of central London.

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glowing, coloured glassware at the lovely Ceramica Blue (ceramicablue.co.uk) – but I’m more focused this morning on Books for Cooks (booksforcooks.com). This is a wonderful specialist shop: crammed with cookbooks – and with great food (rich chocolate cake and coffee for me) in the tiny kitchen café out back. “We really are able to cook the books here,” says the shop’s owner Eric Treuille. “Food here is not just something to be perused in books; it is something to be cooked, eaten and enjoyed. We can then really champion the books in which we know the recipes really work. It makes us more than a cook book shop: we’re a shop for all cooks!”

Instantly revived, we walk through the quiet streets of Notting Hill. This part of London is at the epicentre of the city’s property boom and it is amazing to realise that, a scant century ago, the tenements and slums of what was then Notting Dale were among the worst and most notorious slums in Britain; even 50 years ago, buying a house in the area was considered risqué. Nowadays, the pretty pastel facades of streets such as Portland Road are home to London’s most expensive houses: and they make for great people – and interiors – watching; Julie’s (juliesrestaurant. com) was once a Bohemian hang-

One smart cookie – Books for Cooks’ Eric Treuille.

Stay at …

SPLURGE The Doyle Collection’s Kensington Hotel offers a tried-andtested formula of sky-high quality and super South Kensington location. Rooms are smart and colourful – and there’s a spa, free Wi-Fi and a swish afternoon tea on offer too. Doubles from £246.

(109-113 Queen’s Gate, +44 207 589 6300; doylecollection.com) Number Sixteen, a boutique, midVictorian bolthole in South Kensington, is beautifully and quirkily furnished – interior designer Kit Kemp has surpassed herself with a vibrant palette and tactile textures, right. Take breakfast in the leafy garden in summer, or cosy up in the library (complete with honesty bar). Double rooms from £252. (16 Sumner Place, +44 207 589 5232; firmdalehotels.com)

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MID-PRICE Try The Rockwell, a dinky, boutique hotel conveniently situated on the Cromwell Road.

Good service, smart rooms, free Wi-Fi and friendly staff – and just a stroll from South Kensington’s museums. Doubles from £145.

(181-183 Cromwell Road, +44 207 244 2000; therockwell.com) right BUDGET The Malt House, right in the heart of Fulham, is a little different: a pub with rooms – but a lovely pub, and what lovely rooms, all ten coming complete with excellent furnishings and fluffy towels.

Recommended. Doubles from £100.

(17 Vanston Place, +44 207 084 6888; malthousefulham.co.uk)

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CITY BREAK | LONDON

out of the Rolling Stones – but now you can pause, have a glass of expensive champagne and listen to some well-heeled chatter.

We cut through Holland Park and into Leighton House (rbkc.gov.uk) – for my money, one of the best and most entrancing small museums in London. The Victorian painter Frederic Leighton was quite a character – wealthy, enigmatic, secretive – and his sumptuous, highly decorated home has been restored beautifully as a showcase of Levantine and Oriental architecture: all glossily tiled walls, gurgling fountains and silk-lined galleried rooms – and a splendid collection of Victorian art. From here, we turn again for the Thames – and The 100 |

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Ship (theship.co.uk), on the south bank of the river facing Fulham.

This is a lovely, atmospheric stretch of water – and the inn itself runs a (sorry) tight ship: it’s more than 200 years old and – its summer barbecues notwithstanding – has an ambience of true authenticity. We sit outside, enjoy a sundowner or three, scoff some fresh lemon sole, gaze over at the Fulham shore and watch the river still at work.

On our second day, we strike out west. Not quite intrepidly though, not in a covered wagon: instead we head out on the tube for Kew Gardens (kew.org): a World Heritage site and one of the great botanic gardens of the world. Kew itself hardly needs an introduction:

Clockwise from above, Maria Veresova at Alexeeva & Jones; community spirit in Notting Hill; magnolia in bloom at Kew Gardens, and a quintessential mews in West London.

Ahoy, me hearty!

Comfort food at The Ship. Right, artful dishes await at Tom’s Kitchen in Chelsea.

Eat at …

it’s famous for its vast collections of plants, great glasshouses, pagoda and new attractions such as the serpentine treetop walk that sways in the wind. But we have another target today: we wander through the spectacular grounds, past the strikingly modern Princess of Wales Conservatory and the sweltering Waterlily House, in the direction of the Thames and charming Kew Palace (hrp.org.uk), which, after extensive restoration, is open to the public for the first time in years.

This early-17th-century building is the smallest of Britain’s royal palaces – and by palace standards it is indeed on the dinky side: a Dutchgabled red-brick building that glows in the sun.

ens Kew Gardens tence, owes its existence, in fact, to the yal palace: the royal family used Kew as a country retreat and, over -tended time, the well-tended royal gardens morphed cular into the spectacular y; in 1837, place it is today; Queen Victoria ia formally donated them to to the nation. The tour ur o off the palace includes es a visit to the cavernous ous kitchen – now open to the public and providing us with a chilly glimpse of the toil and grind ind required belowstairs to keep the upstairs folk fed, warm and Downton-happy. wnton-happy. So

SPLURG Famous, luxurious, SPLURGE Michelin Michelin-class Bibendum is a pretty fine choice for any splurger. This South Kensington restauran restaurant’s interiors are as good as the food and wine – and hurrah! there’s a keenly keenly-priced fixed menu on offer too. (81 Fu Fulham Road, +44 207 581 5817; bibendum bibendum.co.uk) MID-PRICE Go for the Chelsea outpost of Tom’ Tom’s Kitchen, just off the Fulham Road, Road for bistro-style modern British cuisine cuisi in smart-casual surroundings; surround try the well-priced fish or meat me sharing boards; good cocktails and craft beers too.

(27 Cale Street, +44 207 349 0202; St tomskitchen.co.uk) tomskitc BUDGET Fresh, fun Megan’s offers deli-s deli-style food from its attractive home on the King’s Road.

Open all day da – and lovely for lunch and brunch: try the plentiful salads and fresh juices.

(571 King’s Road, ju +44 207 348 7139; megans.co.uk)

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it comes as a relief to explore the manicured grounds, before scuttling over to the tea rooms in the former orangery – to kick our shoes off, as the servants surely never did, and stuff ourselves with tea and fragrant orange cake.

Back in London again, we’re in the mood for a GRAND little excess – and so we DESIGNS call into the Jewellery Scandinavian, before Marvel at the fabulous Gallery at the turning towards Sloane Alexander McQueen fashion Victoria and Albert Square. exhibition at the V&A: Savage Museum (vam.

Yes, we’ve decided that Beauty showcases the iconic ac.uk), where tiaras, Peter Jones (johnlewis. designer’s spectacular and rulebrooches, gleaming com) is more affordable breaking talent with just the right necklaces and a heavy than the V&A’s jewels amount of drama. Do book ahead diamond stomacher – and besides, poet John though: this one is selling fast (why aren’t stomachers Betjeman is supposed to (until August 2; have said that when the in fashion these days?) vam.ac.uk). end of the world came, he gleam under brilliant wanted to be in the haberdashery lights against the mirrored department at Peter Jones “because walls. The effect is dizzying. nothing unpleasant could ever Since we can’t afford any of this Above, Britain’s happen there”. Very true: and and it doesn’t really seem feasible to first national surely nothing unpleasant could steal them, we leave the museum, theatre, the Royal ever happen anywhere on Sloane pausing only to glance into the very Court on Sloane Square, with its canopy of London appropriately-titled What is Luxury?

Square, receives plane trees, glittering shops – exhibition (until September 27): more than 120,000 visitors and the Royal Court Theatre Harrods is within sight, but instead per year. (royalcourttheatre.com) anchoring its we cross the Brompton Road and eastern end. This is one of London’s check out Skandium (skandium. great theatres and the home for com), home of all things cool and 102 |

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ILLUSTRATION BY STEVE McCARTHY

CITY BREAK | LONDON

years of cutting-edge writing. Now, early in the evening, we call into its bar – very cool – and sip, nibble, cool our tired feet and watch elegant Londoners do their thing.

Then, as twilight falls, we are drawn once more, as though by a magnetic force, to the Thames. The Albert Bridge – brightly painted, brightly illuminated and a romantic backdrop to any number of London films – sparkles ahead of us, and the brown river swells and sighs against its great stone embankments. “I like the spirit of this great London which I feel around me,” wrote Charlotte Brontë in Villette. So do we.

Follow Neil @nphegarty

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK AND SHANNON TO LONDON DAILY.

MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

MONAGHAN’S

CASHMERE STORE Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide

Mr. Tom Monaghan

A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom Monaghan in his store in Dublin’s Royal Hibernian Way. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere and has been in business for over 55 years, selling a wide range of classic cashmere in the latest styles and colours for both men and women.

LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie

NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

As we are celebrating our 55th year Tom would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents ( terms ms and conditions apply)

M Monaghan’s Cashmere, Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

.monaghanscashmere.ie www.monaghanscashmere.ie

JASON FLORIO

URBAN PARKS | BEING THERE

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7

Best urban parks Daragh Reddin takes a leisurely stroll through the coolest parks in the hottest cities.

The High Line, New York

Manhattan’s attention-hogging Central Park is one of the island’s most storied and visited attractions but, being such a domineering presence, it’s easy to forget almost 14 per cent of New York City is covered in green spaces, many of which feel remarkably secluded. However, for sheer novelty and stunning views nothing beats The High Line (thehighline.org), an urban park on Manhattan’s West Side, constructed upon an abandoned, elevated freight-train line. Part of The High Line’s charm is that, more than five years since the first section opened, it continues to feel l ike a work in progress – and the passion of those involved in its stewardship is palpable. Few Big Apple experiences can match the woozy sense of well-being visitors enjoy as they wander through a meadow or spread-eagle on a grassy knoll as the cars whoosh by along the street below. There are regular tours taking in the High Line’s flora and fauna; while romantic types can plump for late-night poetry walks and stargazing workshops.

Snack at ... The park is peppered with tempting little street-food ventures but, for something more substantial, try Santina (santinanyc.com) at The High Line’s southernmost entrance, an authentic Italian with excellent seafood options, including its much admired blue crab spaghetti.

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URBAN PARKS | BEING THERE

Gulbenkian Park, Lisbon With its blingy futuristic architecture, including a state-of-the-art aquarium and casino, Parque das Nações (Park of Nations), close to the River Tagus, is Lisbon’s most revered outdoor space. But for those seeking some solace in the city, the minorkey charms of Gulbenkian Park (gulbenkian.pt) are a more alluring prospect.

The Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian is Portugal’s most esteemed cultural outfit and preserves the legacy of the oil magnate and patron of the arts, Calouste Gulbenkian, in two gallery spaces – one of which houses Calouste’s own collection of priceless treasures – separated by landscaped grounds. Sadly, many visitors tend to view this adjoining park as little more than a passageway between the two buildings and don’t take the time to enjoy its calming, pampas grass-flecked environs. At a modest eight hectares it’s a relatively small space but packs a lot in – including terraced garden, two lakes, a tangle of streams and a clutch of fine contemporary sculptures – without ever feeling busy. Its most stunning feature, however, is a 1,000-seat amphitheatre, sensitively designed to capitalise on its Arcadian backdrop. Try visiting in August when it plays host to an annual, open-air jazz festival (musica.gulbenkian.pt) featuring a host of local and international talents.

Snack at ... The self-service café in the Gulbenkian is exceptionally good and competitively priced, particularly by museum standards. Colourful and dainty pastries are impossible to resist but savoury options are equally accomplished.

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Golden Gate Park, San Francisco At just over 405 hectares, San Francisco’s beloved outdoor attraction can feel forbiddingly large, particularly for newcomers, and even the most gung-ho visitor is likely to see only a fraction of it in a day. The Japanese Tea Garden (japaneseteagardensf.com), two picture-postcard-like hectares containing such obligatory features as bamboo platforms, koi ponds and cherry trees, is well recommended. The park is also home to such august institutions as the De Young Museum and The Academy of Sciences but it would be a shame to visit and not spend time outdoors. Stow Lake (stowlakeboathouse.com), a vast reservoir, is a popular spot for paddle boating and, if the Japanese Tea Garden feels too dainty for your taste, the Bison Paddock, where more than 100 of the ruminants run free, should help channel your inner Buffalo Bill.

Snack at ... No self-respecting caffeinista can afford to give Trouble Coffee and Coconut Club, in the nearby Outer Sunset neighbourhood, a miss. Try full-bodied espressos and offset the damage by draining a hydrating whole coconut. And the café’s signature dish, doorstep-thick cinnamon toast, is comfort food par excellence.

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URBAN PARKS | BEING THERE

Parc de la Ciutadella, Barcelona

Park Güell, the mosaic-studded “garden city” designed by venerable Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, is one of Barcelona’s most vaunted attractions but it became the victim of its own success in 2013 when authorities decided to introduce an entrance fee for non-locals and limit the number of visits per day. Thankfully, Parc de la Ciutadella imposes no such restrictions and is, frankly, a more inviting and relaxed space. The park was created for the 1888 Universal Exhibition and has been thoughtfully sub-divided to include manicured lawns, formal gardens, shady walkways, a small lake and a dramatic water feature – co-designed by Gaudí– in which statuary, rockery and greenery all coalesce.

There’s a pleasingly languid atmosphere in summer with sun-kissed young lovers strolling about arm in arm; older ladies walking impossibly tiny and mollycoddled dogs; and would-be circus performers showcasing their skills. Pickpockets can be a problem, however, so it’s best to come with just a good book in hand, a bottle of sun cream and enough loose change to keep you in fizzy drinks for the long, lazy afternoon ahead.

TURISME DE BARCELONA

Snack at ... Picnic (picnic-restaurant. com) is the name but brunch is the specialty at this elegant, familyrun foodie haven. Tapas-sized portions of staples such as pancakes and French toast cry out to be shared.

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Amsterdam’s stunning park, which welcomes some ten million visitors a year, is almost as synonymous with the Dutch capital as Rembrandt, canals and complex drugs laws. Few urban outdoor spaces attract as diverse a range of visitors as Vondelpark (iamsterdam.com) – named after 17th-century author Joost van den Vondel – a 50-hectare retreat in the south of the city that attracts everyone from rollerblading hipsters and bohemians, to excitable children free to cut loose in any of its six playgrounds. If that all sounds a little hectic, rest assured visitors are equally welcome to saunter through the park’s pretty winding footpaths or just sit back, good book in hand, and soak it up. From May to August each year the Vondelpark Open Air Theatre (openluchttheater.nl/ colofon) hosts an eclectic line-up of events, encompassing dance, jazz, cabaret, standup comedy and music, with visitors invited to make a modest donation of just €1 per performance. The park first opened in 1865, so be sure to visit this year to toast its 150th anniversary.

EDWIN VAN EIS

Vondelpark, Amsterdam

Snack at ... There are three serviceable cafés within the park – all child friendly – but if that’s a turnoff, try nearby Buuf

(buufeten.nl) in Overtoom where the food is hearty and cheap, and the clientele local and boisterous.

National Gardens, Athens Athens is a vibrant and exciting metropolis but a cavalier attitude to city planning in the latter half of the 20th century has meant that green belts are disappointingly

few and far between. It’s small wonder then that the National Gardens, radiating to the south and east of palace-turned-parliament the Vouli, is such a much-loved haven for

those seeking a reprieve from the clamour of city living. Built at the behest of Queen Amalia in the mid-19th century as a private park, it’s filled with tropical vegetation from around the globe. Those who enjoy elegant topiary and carefully cultivated lawns may be disappointed; however, if you enjoy parks that are a little wild and unfussy, the dense thickets and untamed undergrowth of the National Gardens are the perfect backdrop for an urban picnic. And as any sightseer who has spent a few hours wandering about central Athens in the merciless heat of high summer will attest, there’s no better way of cooling off than by finding a shady spot under an exoticlooking tree here and nursing a suitably chilly and restorative frappé.

Snack at ... Aegli Café (aeglizappiou.gr), the type of sophisticated establishment in which you’d imagine economist Yanis Varoufakis sipping an espresso. This lively eatery, beloved of the chattering classes, is a splendid spot for people watching and pastry nibbling. The celebrated “rosemary margarita” is well worth a punt.

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URBAN PARKS | BEING THERE

Phoenix Park, Dublin At an impressive 707 hectares, Dublin’s Phoenix Park is the largest enclosed city park in Europe and unquestionably one of its best. Even on the balmiest days – when its centrally-located rival, St Stephen’s Green, is teeming with oily sun worshippers – its verdant meadows feel invitingly under-populated. The only problem first-time visitors face is choosing where to begin. Time-strapped tourists can rent bikes (phoenixparkbikehire.com) and circumnavigate the perimeter in under an hour but ambling about on foot is arguably a more rewarding experience. The park is dotted with various worthwhile attractions – Dublin Zoo among them – but a visit to Farmleigh House & Garden (farmleigh. ie), originally home to the Guinness family, is a must. Acquired by the State in 1999, this Victorian pile has played host to various visiting dignitaries, including Queen Elizabeth II and Emperor Akihito

of Japan, but the hoi polloi are equally welcome, albeit between 10am and 6pm daily when it opens for free public tours. Áras an Uachtaráin, the president’s residence, is located off Chesterfield Avenue – a handsome thoroughfare flanked by original Victorian gas lamps – that bisects the park through its centre; tickets for tours of its grounds are available from the Phoenix Park Visitor Centre (phoenixpark.ie). However, the park’s most celebrated residents are of the four-legged variety: fallow deer were introduced in the 17th century as quarry for the landed gentry. Today, passers-by lucky enough to happen upon a majestic herd grazing silently in the grassland or roaming about at leisure can’t fail to be moved by the spectacle.

Snack at ... Confectionery fans should make a beeline for The Phoenix Café (phoenixpark.ie) in the grounds of the Visitor Centre, which is renowned for its superlative scones and an everchanging roster of delicious baked goods. The full-bodied filter coffee is also recommended.

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NEW YORK AND SHANNON DAILY; FROM DUBLIN TO LISBON DAILY; FROM DUBLIN TO SAN FRANCISCO DAILY; FROM DUBLIN TO BARCELONA DAILY, AND FROM CORK THREE TIMES A WEEK; FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO AMSTERDAM DAILY; AND FROM DUBLIN TO ATHENS THREE TIMES A WEEK.

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MASTERCLASS | ROCK CLIMBING

Hang tough Niamh Wade lives life on the edge in Co Donegal. s I stand on a jagged ledge inches from the North Atlantic, watching my brother’s quivering legs descend from above, I fear he may be cursing me. In contrast, having just abseiled 50 metres off Ireland’s most northerly point, Malin Head, in Co Donegal, I’m surprisingly at ease in the stunning surroundings. This is likely due to the calm aura of Bren Whelan – exceptionally qualified instructor and owner of Wild Atlantic Way Climbing – who is teaching us how to rock climb for the day.

Fuelled by our plentiful breakfast at The Malin Hotel and adhering to Bren’s advanced “what-to-wear” list, with its emphasis on comfortable, warm clothes and bright jackets, John and I are ready to rock (excuse the pun).

After a treat of a drive along the Inishowen 100 (a renowned scenic route and now part of the official Wild Atlantic Way), and a five-minute walk with the gear, we arrive at our spot, with Scotland clearly visible in the distance. To climb up, we must first go down. Peering over is daunting.

Despite the sun, there’s a cooling easterly breeze. Harness, helmet and climbing shoes on, Bren ties us into the belay system – a series of ropes and knots secured to a strong anchor point

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BREN WHELAN

A

CLIMB INN

A day’s climbing costs from €80; wildatlanticwayclimbing.ie.

Stay at The Malin Hotel, for comfortable rooms and food to match. Dinner, B&B from €120 per room. malinhotel.ie

a few steps from the cliff. “Just aim for the white-stones”, encourages Bren as I slowly lever myself backwards onto an imaginary seat, feet firmly against the cliff face, rope tightly in hand. As I walk my feet down the rugged terrain and the guys start to resemble toy soldiers, the length of the drop becomes very real. The whitestoned beach is surprisingly larger when I get there – a true testament to how far I’ve come. I untie and wait for the others to join, enjoying the peace and dramatic landscape.

“A double figure of eight with a stop-knot are paramount,” adds Bren as he re-ties us into the rope set-up, ensuring we are still safe. It’s clear this activity is not just about physical capabilities – there’s also a lot of jargon to understand. Safety is key,

Feeling ropey?

Niamh rocks her first climb, above.

Below left, John bravely traverses the rugged cliff and, below, moo-ving through the breathtaking Inishowen Peninsula.

so patience is needed as new anchor systems are set and climbing starts. Thankfully the rock is very easy to grab, with plenty of foot-holds and hand placements. Bren goes first, placing gear in various nooks and clipping in the rope, his 25 years’ experience clearly evident as he manoeuvres his way up the 70-metre cliff face. I belay him – feeding the rope gradually through the device attached to my harness – as he ascends.

“On belay,” shouts Bren from his next perched position higher up.

“Climber ready?” “Climbing,” replies John and moves on. Once up, I follow, removing the gear as I clamber, being careful not to drop any – it’s not cheap! I’m pleasantly surprised that I can keep up and, with three stopping points en route, there’s plenty of snap-happy moments – proof of our bravery… and madness.

Feeling proud after our first multi-pitch climb, we delve into our packed lunch complete with a 360-degree view. Why does food always taste better outdoors?

With jelly legs absent, the final abseil is more fun. The sun on our backs, we scramble around to a new starting point. Buzzing, we climb upwards again, to the surprise and glee of a rambling photographer – not quite the view he expected through his lens. Smiles all round – it’s hard not to after a gripping day like that.

Irelands Oldest Pub EST 1198

TRADITIONAL FOOD SERVED ALL DAY LIVE IRISH MUSIC NIGHTLY SUNDAY MUSIC SESSION 3.30-6.30pm

20 Bridge Street Lower, Dublin 8 10 minute walk from Guinness Store House 2 minute walk from Christchurch

Tel : +353 1 6795186 www.brazenhead.com

BEING THERE | CORNWALL

48 hours in

Cornwall

ADAM GIBBARD

Poldark may have long galloped into the sunset, but stunning coastlines, ridiculously good food and a laid-back vibe await. Meg Walker takes a trip around the English Riviera.

Eat at …

ITALIAN You may recall Jamie Oliver’s 2002 TV series where 15 disadvantaged youths were trained to work in the Naked Chef’s new London restaurant, Fifteen. The same concept applies here at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Cornwall, where the Cornwall Food Foundation runs an apprenticeship programme for budding young chefs. But there’s no sense of amateur cookery going on here. The food is simply superb (cue antipasti spreads with jumbo olives, mozzarella, cured meats and Italianinspired tapas and bites, all paired with delicious cocktails). Book way ahead. (Watergate Bay, +44 1637 861 000; fifteencornwall.co.uk) SEAFOOD Rick Stein made Cornish dining world-famous and any one of his eight restaurants scattered around Cornwall will leave you remembering your stay with

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your taste buds. The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow is famous for its fresh fish straight from the sea. Head chef Stephane Delourme and his team create simple dishes with classic flavours using Rick’s recipes.

The seafood bar here is an experience, where guests can watch the chefs assemble platters of oysters, langoustines and sashimi. Or sample the delights at Rick Stein’s Fish in Falmouth, where grilled sea bream, moules marinière, lobster, oysters, and even fish and chips are de rigueur. Or head to The Cornish Arms in Padstow for head chef Alex Clark’s delicious pub fare, including burgers and scampi and chips, all washed down with a refreshing ale or glass of wine. The beer garden is a must on a fine day, especially for those with a doggie in tow. (rickstein.com)

Top, fans of the recent BBC series Poldark will recognise the glorious coastline of Trebarwith.

Above, artful cuisine at the Merchants Manor Hotel’s Brasserie.

PASTIES At the Philleigh Way Cookery School, brothers-inlaw James Martin (not to be confused with the Saturday Kitchen one) and chef George Pascoe teach the basics of this traditional Cornish snack and how to make the perfect crimp. You can also learn how to prepare fresh scones and clotted cream, saffron biscuits and plenty more waistlinecompromising treats. (Court Farm, Philleigh, Truro, +44 1872 580 893; philleighway.co.uk)

energised and inspired. (Bodelva, +44 1726 811 911; edenproject.com)

Sleep at …

EDWARDIAN Owned by Nick and Sioned Rudlin, Merchants Manor Hotel is a dreamy 39-bedroom country house in Falmouth. The Gym & Swim features a fitness centre, 12-metre indoor pool, sauna and hot tub, but it’s the Brasserie that is the hotel’s gem. Think wild rabbit, venison and market fresh fish and scallops, a well-thought-out wine list and decadent desserts.

(1 Western Terrace, Falmouth, +44 1326 312 734; merchantsmanor.com) GROWN-UP Newquay’s The Scarlet is an adults-only hotel where grown-ups go to escape and recharge. Cue outdoor hot tubs, an Ashtanga-inspired spa, superior restaurant and the most inviting bedrooms: ours had a giant bathtub and deluxe shower at the foot of the bed, plus a reading area upstairs with views of the sea and an outdoor patio. Oh, and did we

HISTORIC HIS SITES Cornish Heritage Safa offers an in-depth tour of the Safaris area area, taking you off the beaten track and exploring the history and nature along the route, including the 13thcent century church in St Just, Bodmin Moor Trelissick Gardens, St Mawes Moor, Castle and Slaughterbridge – the Castle, site of King Arthur’s last battle. (cornishheritagesafaris.co.uk)

mention it’s an eco resort?

(Mawgan Porth, +44 1637 861 800; scarlethotel.co.uk) FAMILY HAVEN Merlin Farm Holiday Cottages are cosy, stylish and eco-friendly homes from home ing nestled amidst rolling an countryside. Mawgan Porth beach is a few minutes’ walk from your front d outdoor td door, while enclosed areas allow for kids to play happily and safely. Cottages sleep two-to-six people and are fully luxe: infrared garden heaters, under-floor heating, a wood-burning stove and floor-toceiling glass windows with beautiful views. (Mawgan Porth, +44 1637 860236; merlin-farm-cottagescornwall.co.uk)

Drink at …

Above, learn how to crimp a pasty at Philleigh Way Cookery School.

Below left, historic St Mawes Castle and, bottom, The Eden Project.

Don’t miss …

THE BEACHES So numerous are the gorgeous beaches throughout Cornwall, we cannot possibly list them all, but here are a good few: Watergate Bay, Mawgan Porth and Tolcarne in Newquay; Castle, Swanpool and Maenporth in Falmouth; Porthminster, Porthmeor and Portheras in St Ives; Pentewan in St Austell; Daymer in Rock; Gwenver in Sennen and Peter’s Point, Hayle. Wherever you’re staying, you’re bound to be close to a stunning sandy expanse, so ask the locals where they go to unwind.

EXOTICA A must for all ages, The Eden Project features two ginormous biomes – one simulating a rainforest environment, the other Mediterranean.

In the rainforest, you’ll find banana trees, nuts, cocoa beans, a waterfall, tropical birds, and rare flowers and plants you’d normally have to travel to Africa, Asia or Brazil to see. While in the Med, you’ll meander past lemon trees and colourful flowers. You could easily spend an entire day here, and both you and the kids will be left amazed,

LITERARY A traditional, out-ofth the-way watering hole situated on Bodmi Bodmin Moor, Jamaica Inn is famous as the setting of Daphne du Maurier’s novel of the same name (and last year’s BBC One drama). It also happens to be the perfect spot to tuck into a steak pie while you sip a pint of Cornish ale beside the fire, or an ice-cold cider out in the beer garden on a sunny day following a long, bracing walk on the moor. (Bolventor, Launceston, +44 156 686 250; jamaicainn.co.uk) WATERSIDE Situated in Mylor Bridge near Falmouth, award-winning pub Pandora Inn serves Cornish lagers, ciders and gin, plus a selection of Devon and Cornwall wines. Opt for a pint by the fire in the beautifully traditional interior, or sit out on the pontoon and tuck into delicate mussels and scallops while sipping Knightor Brut sparkling wine and watching the world go by. (Mylor Bridge, Falmouth, +44 1326 372 678; pandorainn.com) AL FRESCO Taste some of the finest local wines at Camel Valley vineyard (camelvalley.com) and Knightor Winery (knightor.com) or take the whole family (yes, kids too) to Healey’s Cornish Cyder Farm, where a tour of the factory, a tractor ride through the farm, and a tasting of the various ciders, brandies, wines, jams and preserves await. (thecornishcyderfarm.co.uk) For more on Cornwall, log on to visitcornwall.com

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NEWQUAY FIVE TIMES PER WEEK.

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In my opinion, AKSUM COFFEE HOUSE has the best coffee in Brussels, from the finest Ethiopian beans roasted on the premises.

Located in the heart of the city, it’s the ideal spot for a break and a quick pick-me-up. (Rue des Eperonniers 60, +32 484 077 695)

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

Brussels

From an underpants museum to a comic strip walk, Westmeath-born, Belgium-based photographer Garry Loughlin takes us behind the scenes.

If dive bars are your thing, be sure to check out DOLLE MOL .

Have a look upstairs where you will find the underpants museum – the Musée du Slip – curated by Jan Bucquoy, pictured, as well as some underwear-related art produced by Jan himself. (Rue des Eperonniers 52, +32 486 360 168)

Belgium is famous for its frites but sometimes I miss the chunky chips from home. BIA MARA is a great stop for fish and chips with a twist.

Set up by Barry and Simon from Ireland, this place has great food and staff generate a great atmosphere. (Rue du Marche aux Poulets 41, +32 2502 0061; biamara.com)

I never get bored with the ATOMIUM, one of my favourite structures.

Built in 1958 as part of the World Fair, it can be found in the north of the city. The view from the top is spectacular.

(Avenue de l’Atomium, +32 2475 4777; atomium.be)

The flea market in PARVIS DU JEU DE BALLE is always a good way to kill some time. It is open daily, but Thursdays and Fridays are the best days to visit. It’s also surrounded by great bars and restaurants when you need refreshments.

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MONK is a great spot with a wide selection of beers and a great atmosphere. Also, if you’re feeling peckish, there is a superb and satisfying spaghetti restaurant in the back. (Rue Sainte Catherine 2, +32 2511 7511; monk.be)

During the day there is a great food market at PARVIS DE ST GILLES where you will find fresh fruit and plenty of food stalls – it’s a great stop for lunch. There are also some decent bars here for the night owls, particularly CAFÉ BRASSERIE DE L’UNION (Sint-Gillisvoorplein 55, +32 2538 1579).

The Belgians love comic books and the COMIC STRIP WALK comprises murals dotted around the city commemorating many of their favourite characters. You will also find more contemporary pieces of street art close by each comic strip wall. (Start at Rue Du Chéne; bruxelles.be)

One of the first secrets I was introduced to in Brussels was the best (free) views of the city from the top level of the PARKING 58 car park. From here you can see many of the sights Brussels has to offer. (Rue de la Vierge Noire)

I can spend hours in TIPI BOOK SHOP a superb resource for independent photo books. It’s a must for photography and bibliophiles, and Andrea, the shop owner, is a wealth of knowledge in everything photo bookrelated. (Munthofstraat 186, +32 478 956 841; tipi-bookshop.be)

More about Garry

After working for many years in architectural photography, Garry Loughlin decided to jump on his bike and cycle across North America to expand his portfolio. When he returned to Ireland he continued ued focusing on his own practice and, in 2014, released his first photo book, Between Spaces. Earlier this year Garry moved to Belgium to develop his fine art practice, as well as working in editorial photography. garryloughlin.com

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um in one of my favourite WIELS is a contemporary art muse and the vats are still there in ery brew a buildings. It was formally upstairs host many well-known the lobby, while the gallery spaces Gonzalez-Torres, Francis Alÿs and Felix ding international artists, inclu an 354, +32 2340 0053 ; wiels.org) Mike Kelley. (Avenue Van Volxemla

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BRUSSELS DAILY, AND FROM CORK TWICE A WEEK.

BEING THERE | AGADIR

SPOTLIGHT AGADIR

Make time for …

Compiled by Niamh Wade

TOP TABLES With ten kilometres of beach and a buzzing port, Agadir has an abundance of seafood. That said, the national dish of Morocco is pastilla, a pigeon pie. Try this, along with tasty tagines and couscous dishes, at Le Mauresque Restaurant and Lounge (your meal may well come with a side of cheesy tunes). The Restaurant Villa Blanche, left (riadvillablanche.com) is an excellent reason to pack that swanky dress or smart shirt. Encased in a riad, it’s a superior dining experience and serves photogenic French and Moroccan cuisine. If you prefer a more rustic meal, head to Agadir Port. Fresh catch is hauled in and grilled on site and, while it might not smell of roses, you’ll feel like a local sitting at the trestle table, sipping refreshing mint tea. Get there early for the fish auction, and prepare to see gigantic tunas and hammerhead sharks.

SIGHTSEEING For a memorable sunset moment, the hilltop Kasbah, left, is well worth the ascent. Built in 1541 and sited 230 metres high, it’s a rugged attraction all right; most of it was destroyed in an earthquake in 1960, so all that’s left of the original structure are remains – and phenomenal panoramas. Too hot to walk up? Hop on a camel for a cultural ride.

HAGGLING With more than 2,000 stalls,

3 unique stays …

Souk El Had sells everything from

tagines, Argan oil and almonds to dainty, decorative slippers. For a more sedate and scenic browse, head to the New Medina , which has a jewellery souk, while for the less enthusiastic shopper are restaurants, artisan workshops, an exotic garden and a museum. visitmorocco.com

RELAXED Paradis Plage Can’t decide between a surfing holiday or a yoga retreat? You don’t have to at this chilled-out yet sophisticated resort, which has both. Located 27 kilometres outside town, this little slice of paradise also encompasses a spa, a bar with nap-encouraging furniture and a restaurant in a nomadic tent that serves organic, local produce against a backdrop of the ocean. paradisplage.com

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BOUTIQUE Riad Villa Blanche This luxurious 28room property is the epitome of elegance, combining traditional Moroccan features with contemporary décor.

Unwind by the pool, in the garden, in the spa, in the library or make an imprint on the golden sandy beach, just metres away. It is also only steps from local attractions and shops. riadvillablanche.com

EXCLUSIVE Sofitel Agadir Thalassa Sea and Spa Five-star and fabulous is this hotel – and how you can expect to feel on departure.

Wellbeing is its focus, with a thalassotherapy centre and spa boasting personalised treatments. Prefer to be active? Golf lessons and a fitness centre await and, with menus designed by nutritionists, that preholiday workout won’t be ruined. sofitel.com

ACTIVITIES Agadir gets more than 300 days of sunshine, so make the most of it.

There’s the surfing hotspot of Taghazout (surftaghazout.com), while landlubbers may prefer exploring sand dunes and palm groves by quad bikes – Agadir Adventures offers one to five-day trips depending on time ... and adrenaline levels. agadiradventure.com

A totally unique theatrical performance telling the story of the Irish from their very beginning to the present “Captivating and Hugely Entertaining”.

Experience 9,000 years of Irish cultural triumphs, feel their defiance as they fight against near annihilation and watch them rise up from their cultural ashes... “Deeply Moving”.

This innovative production allows the audience to walk through each scene with a mythical guide who tells the 10,000 year story. info@storyoftheirish.ie www.storyoftheirish.ie

Location: Smithfield, Dublin 7 Hop On/Off Bus - Jameson Distillery Stop

Show/Tours Start Every 15 Mins Duration 80 Mins

On business Berlin’s big ideas In this month’s business section, we spotlight Berlin’s tech renaissance, plus networking events, hip hotels, and more

Making travel work for you

Business

Three dates for the diary …

1

Inspire 2015, Dublin, June 18-19 Organised by Silicon Republic, Inspire 2015 is a new international event showcasing female leadership in STEM (science, technology, engineering, and mathematics) and boasts a line-up dominated by women at the top of their field, including Shelly Porges, former adviser to Hillary Clinton; Belfast-born astrophysicist Dame Jocelyn Bell Burnell and Kimberly Bryant (pictured), founder of Black Girls Code. inspirefest2015.com

2

London Technology Week, June 15-21 Celebrating London’s status as a hotbed of tech innovation, last year’s inaugural London Technology Week saw 40,000 tech heads coming together across 203 events. This year there’s ample opportunity to network and pick up insider tech tips, with events ranging from international conferences to face-to-face investor meetings taking place in venues across the city. londontechnologyweek.co.uk

3

America’s Small Business Summit, Washington DC, June 8-10 More than 1,000 small business owners from across the US will converge on Washington DC this month to voice their business concerns and share success tips at this US Chamber of Commerce-led summit. Under the theme of “Your Business, Your Voice”, industry experts, successful entrepreneurs and key policy-makers will be among the attendees to rub shoulders with. uschamber.com/events

Appy travels

Whether you hire a car, hail a cab or hitch a ride on public transport, these essential transit apps make navigating a new city a breeze.

DRIVING Waze Real-time information from more than 50 million contributing members about where to avoid traffic jams, accidents, construction areas and even where to get a top up of fuel make Waze an essential navigation app. Hands-free voice controls make it easy – and safe – to use while driving. Free on iOS and Android. waze.com

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TAXI Lynk Essential for visitors to Dublin who need to make a speedy exit to and from the airport, or dash across the city to meetings, the capital’s first home-grown taxi app lets you book a cab in advance, make multiple bookings and also manage them on the Lynk for Business option. Free on iOS and Android. lynk.ie

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Citymapper Widely considered the best app for cities, the once London-centric Citymapper now offers real-time bus/train timetables for New York, Boston, Barcelona, Berlin and more, plus a handy “Get Me Home” feature that scans every mode of transport from where you are. Free on iOS and Android. citymapper.com

Power trippin’

Stockholm-based design house Holger’s vintage-inspired bag collection isn’t just easy on the eye; these fully waterproof, leather-finish backpacks and briefcases come equipped with a rechargeable battery to charge your laptop, tablet or phone.

From €229 at holgerbags.com.

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Business

NEW YORK, NEW YORK

4 Best brunches in Manhattan Travellers to the Big Apple from Dublin will love Aer Lingus’s extra new flights from June 8 that arrive into JFK Airport at 10.20am - just in time for brunch. These are near The Fifty NYC ...

Peacock Alley Served in the Waldorf Astoria, Sunday brunch is a buffet-style offering and, at $98 per person, thankfully delivers a deluxe version.

There is a raw bar with caviar, clams, oysters, lobster and shrimp; smoked fish and meatcarving stations; champagne or mimosa; and more than 100 gourmet desserts around a chocolate fondue fountain. (301 Park Avenue, +1 212 872 1275; peacockalleyrestaurant.com)

Saks Fifth Avenue Not strictly a brunch location, Café SFA on the eighth floor of Saks Fifth Avenue is nevertheless a great place to take a break from shopping and piece your own perfect brunch together from the all-day menu. Try to reserve a table at a window – the views over St Patrick’s Cathedral and the Rockefeller Center are spectacular.

(611 Fifth Avenue, +1 212 940 4577; cafesfa.com)

HOTEL REVIEW

Suite dreams An apartment in Manhattan is one of those aspirations on many people’s “If I won the lottery” wish list. For those of us who haven’t won (yet), a room at the Fifty NYC brings a taste of New York City living within reach. The well-priced studios and suites here are unusually large for this part of New York – it’s just one block from the Waldorf Astoria – and the inclusion of a small but perfectly-formed kitchen lends a feel of convenient apartment living (but with the bonus of being fully serviced).

A partnership with a local grocery delivery service

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means they’ll even stock your fridge and pantry for you. The plus for business travellers is the meeting spaces, data and fax services, a concierge, valet parking and a gym. In-room Wi-Fi can be overly pricey but you can avoid charges by booking direct, so watch for special offers when booking.

The location of the Fifty on Third Avenue is a clincher – a short stroll to St Patrick’s Cathedral, Saks Fifth Avenue, the Rockefeller Center and all that midtown Manhattan has to offer. Rooms from €177.21. (155 East 50th Street, +1 212 751 5710; affinia.com)

Pershing Square Just opposite Grand Central Terminal’s main entrance and underneath the Park Avenue Viaduct, this bustling bistro has everything from freshly baked pastries and Irish oatmeal to “Shrimpscargot” (shrimp baked with lemon, garlic and parsley) – as well as eggs every way you can imagine, not to mention the all-important pancake menu.

(90 East 42nd Street, +1 212 286 9600; pershingsquare.com)

230 Fifth Rooftop Bar If the weather is with you (don’t worry, they also have big umbrellas) then New York’s largest outdoor rooftop garden is the place to enjoy the city’s skyline. Serving brunch on Saturday and Sundays only, it is buffet style, $29 for adults, $15 for children, with a wide range of favourites and salads and a grill station in the summer.

(230 Fifth Avenue, +1 212 725 4300; 230-fifth.com)

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BUSINESS | TRAVEL

Smart Traveller BELFAST

3

BEST BUSINESS HOTELS IN SAN FRANCISCO

Author of the recently released novel The Good Son, Paul McVeigh is also director of the London Short Story Festival (June 18-21; lssf. co.uk). He tells Lisa Hughes about doing business in his hometown.

“Belfast is great for business travel because … There's a vibrant, exciting feeling in the air.

I’m from Belfast but moved away about 20 years ago and, in that time, it has been transformed.

Belfast City Airport is also very handy, being only a short ride from the city centre.

For a business dinner to remember … The Birdcage (92 Stranmillis Road, 048 9066 3101; birdcagebelfast. com) is a great spot, where you can get a meal for two for around £30 – including wine.

I’ve been eating at the manager John McClean’s restaurants for about 20 years ement because his involvement od, guarantees quality food, excellent service and a great atmosphere.

Best place for lunch meetings … I always go to the very central Harlem (34 Bedford Street, 048 9024 4860; harlembelfast.co.uk).

The food is excellent and you can have lunch and a drink for around a tenner. The décor is funky and, with the BBC and City Hall on the doorstep, there’s always an interesting mix of clientele. For a more formal meeting, Titanic Suites (55-59 Adelaide Street, 048 9033 9999; titanic-suites.com) has excellent facilities and great service from helpful and

co courteous staff.

Business drinks … A recent add addition to Belfast’s nightlife sc scene, Shiro (12 Brunswick St Street, 048 9024 8000; sh shirobelfast.com) has a chilled Top, Belfast’s ambience that I love, and the imposing City stylish surroundings make it Hall. Above, author Paul perfect for business drinks in McVeigh. the heart of the city.

Best business hotel … I stay at the surprisingly affordable Apple Apartments (62 Donegal Quay, +44 20 3696 1147; appleapartments.co.uk), which offers penthouses in the tallest building in Ireland.

The view overlooks the River Lagan, the hills and mountains surrounding the city and as far as the Titanic Museum. Pretty awe-inspiring, and makes a big impression if you have meetings there.

“I can’t travel without …

On your downtime A Moleskine notebook to record in Belfast … If you’re ideas, characters, snippets of a book buff like me, conversations and impressions of the Belfast Book a place.“ Festival (June 8-14, Moleskine Voyageur Notebook, belfastbookfestival. €22.90 from moleskine.com com) at the Crescent Arts Centre is a must.”

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1

HOTEL CARLTON Splashes of exotic décor, free Wi-Fi, a marble-topped writing desk and laptop-sized safe make the three-star Hotel Carlton’s rooms a hit with the business pack. Bonus points for the free wine reception, complimentary town cars and free shuttle to and from the airport.

(1075 Sutter Street, +1 415 673 0242; jdvhotels.com)

2

THE RITZ-CARLTON Housed in a 1909 neoclassical landmark, downtown’s Ritz-Carlton has a cable car stop on its doorstep, as well as 2,100 square metres of meeting space, complimentary house car for short journeys and a business lounge with Wi-Fi, printers, etc. (600 Stockton Street, +1 415 296 7465; ritzcarlton.com)

3

LOEWS Formerly the Mandarin Oriental, this hotel sprawls across the top eleven floors of one of the city’s tallest buildings. In addition to the whopper Bay views, there’s free Wi-Fi, fullyequipped meeting spaces, a 24/7 business centre and it’s just 25 minutes from the airport. (222 Sansome Street, +1 415 276 9888; loewshotels.com)

BUDDING BERLIN The once divided German city is now hell-bent on becoming the top dog of tech in Europe. Louise East looks at where startup entrepreneurs come to work, rest and play. Photographs by Zรถe Noble.

B

efore there was Weimar Berlin, and Cold War Berlin, and hipster Berlin, there was “elektropolis” Berlin – a city so in love with technology, it invented the e lectric tram, the e lectric lift and that defining aesthetic of 20th century, the lit-up billboard. Now, Berlin is at it again. A few years ago, it was just a few guys in cafés noodling away on laptops; now Berlin is nipping at London’s heels, a determined newcomer hell-bent on becoming the top dog of tech in Europe.

Estimations of how many startups currently operate out of Berlin vary wildly (from 600 to 6,000; firm figures are hard to come by when two coders working out of their bedroom counts as a startup), but if you follow the money, it’s flowing right through Berlin. Last year, it finally saw its first multi-million and billion euro exits (Zalando and Rocket Internet), and an EY (formerly Ernst & Young) study placed Berlin just behind London in terms of European-wide venture capital investment.

In June, yet another startup accelerator (Techstars) joins an already crowded market and, in a sure sign that money’s being made, the consultants have descended: McKinsey, Boston Consulting Group and Deloitte all recently opened digital outposts. Even Yandex, often described as Russia’s Google (in Moscow, of course, it’s vice versa), has just opened a massive research and development lab here.

So why Berlin and not, say, Paris, or even Germany’s engineering and biotech cluster, Munich? “Berlin’s operating system is English,” points out Ciarán O’Leary, partner at Earlybird Venture Capital.

“People come from all over the world and they can navigate the city in English. If you try and do that in Paris, you’re going to have a bad day.”

Nor is its tangled 20th-century history coincidental to Berlin’s latest tech boom: “Berlin’s recent history is one of constant change – it doesn’t have the predefined social and economic hierarchies of other European cities. It’s an unpainted urban canvas – a turbulent, messy place that tends to attract the kind of people who become e ntrepreneurs and build companies.”

Geographically, the Cupertino of Berlin’s startup scene is probably Mitte, the central East Berlin district, in the shadow of the television tower. That makes the coffee shop St Oberholz (Rosenthaler Strasse 72a, +49 30 2146 1311; sanktoberholz.de) Steve Jobs’ garage. It was one of the first cafés in Berlin where the Wi-Fi was free, and rumour has it that the music sharing app SoundCloud – who have just poached Ireland’s Facebook MD, Sonia Flynn – was cooked up here back in 2007. The place is still bristling with MacBook Airs.

The 2015 evolution of the Mitte coffee house is The Factory (Rheinsberger Strasse 76/77; factoryberlin.com) a 16,000-squaremetre “startup campus” that opened last year. Google is an investor; Soundcloud, Twitter, and 6Wunderkinder are tenants, and the aim is to provide a petri dish where fledgling startups and industry players can bond over a beer at sunset.

Check out the just-opened, drop-in coworking space on the ground floor, or swing by the in-house “canteen”, Studio Tim Raue (Rheinsberger Strasse 76/77,

BUSINESS | BERLIN

FLAGGING?

Pick up a bottle of Club Mate, the highly-caffeinated, non-alcoholic fuel of Berlin’s startup crowd. Hackers and club-kids alike drink barrels of the stuff.

+49 30 4431 0950; factoryberlin.com/studio/) where Michelin-starred chef Raue offers great value lunch specials with a side of industry gossip. (Look outside for a somewhat eerie insight into the speed of Berlin’s transition: The Factory abuts the former Death Strip and, in converting the old brewery, numerous tunnels between East and West were uncovered.)

Soho House (Torstrasse 1, +49 30 405 0440; sohohouseberlin. com), a members’ club in a sevenstorey behemoth once home to the Communist Party Central Committee, also operates as a hotel.

As a guest, you can access not just the stunning views from the rooftop pool, but also the basement steam room, an informal talking shop for the startup crowd. Other good options in Mitte are the elegant suites at Gorki Apartments (Weinbergsweg 25, +49 30 4849 6480; gorkiapartments.de) or, if you’re on a budget, the welllocated Generator Hostel Mitte (Oranienburgerstrasse 65, +49 30 921 037 680; generatorhostels.com).

For a see-and-be-seen lunch, it’s still hard to beat Borchardt (Französische Strasse 47, +49 132 |

JUNE 2015

Above, the ultra-cool 25 Hours Bikini Berlin hotel has pulled attention westwards.

30 8188 6262; borchardtrestaurant.de) and, for oldschool finesse, Fischers Fritz (Charlottenstrasse 49, +49 30 2033 6363; fischersfritzberlin. com). Cool newcomer Pauly Saal (Auguststrasse 11, +49 30 3300 6070; paulysaal.com) has a Michelin star, and Lokal (Linienstrasse 160, +49 30 2844 9500; lokal-berlin. blogspot.com) is low-key and, as the name suggests, locally-sourced.

As even Berlin’s famously cheap rents began to rise, the startup scene has looked to Kreuzberg and neighbouring district Neukölln. If you need a desk and Wi-Fi, this area is home to a number of funky coworking spaces. Founded in 2009, betahaus (Prinzessinnenstrasse 1920; betahaus.com) is the granddaddy of them all, offering everything from a single desk to a meeting room for 150 people; you can also sign up for free “office hours” with experts in everything from patent protection and big data to wood-working.

For something a little more artistic, check out Agora (Mittelweg 50; agoracollective.org), an old redbrick house with apple trees out front, a weekly communal dinner and life-drawing classes to get the juices flowing. Newbies in Berlin should

also swing by überlin (uberlin. co.uk) in the pretty tree-lined area of Graefekiez (incidentally, home to the world’s highest concentration of merchants accepting Bitcoin) where regular workshops on how to navigate Germany’s Escher-like bureaucracy are held in a converted biscuit factory.

Street food is big in Berlin and Kreuzberg is the place to find it. To wolf down some pulled pork and a cocktail concocted from Monkey 47, a cult Black Forest gin, head to Markthalle IX (Eisenbahnstrasse 42-43, +49 30 6107 3473; markthalleneun.de), one of the city’s last 19th-century market halls.

If you’d rather something a little more old Europe, Weltrestaurant Markthalle (Pücklerstrasse 34, +49 30 617 5502; weltrestaurantmarkthalle.de), a light-filled, woodpanelled restaurant next door, offers the best schnitzel in town and a good location for breakfast meetings.

Two recent restaurant openings in formerly down-at-heel Neukölln have got people talking. Eins44 (Elbestrasse 28/29, +49 30 6298 1212; eins44.com) is a classy, contemporary bistro in a tiled schnapps factory and Industry Standard (Sonnenallee 83, +49 30 6272 7732; industry-standard.

Anticlockwise from right, the lofty Neni restaurant has a privileged view of Berlin Zoo; expat Emily Hall; take lunch at Markthalle IX, one of Berlin’s oldest market halls, and überlin, a hip co-working space set up by British expats Zöe East (who shot the photos for this story) and James Glazebrook.

de) offers sharing plates, noseto-tail eating and, at weekends, queues out the door. As for insider information: stand in line for a flat white at Concierge Coffee (PaulLincke-Ufer 39-40, +49 176 8419 5915), a tiny coffee joint much loved by Kreuzberg startup-ers.

Staying in this part of town is a tale of two cities. Either take the Oberbaum Bridge across the river Spree from Kreuzberg to the rock‘n’roll Michelberger Hotel (Warschauer Strasse 39/40, +49 30 2977 8590; michelbergerhotel. com), or head to the far end of Kreuzberg and the old world calm and courtyards of Hotel Riehmers Hofgarten (Yorckstrasse 83, +49 30 7809 8800; riehmers-hofgarten.de).

Former west Berlin suffered from the post-reunification exodus to the low rents of the former east, but in Berlin, the crown of cool is always being passed on. Last year, a stalwart of the Mitte gallery scene, C/O Berlin (Hardenbergstrasse 22, +49 30 2844 4160; co-berlin.org) relocated to Amerika Haus, an iconic 1950s building in Charlottenburg, and two buzzy new hotels have pulled attention westwards; Das Stue (Drakestrasse 1, +49 30 311 7220; das-stue.com) and 25 Hours Bikini Berlin (Budapester Strasse 40, +49 30 120 221 255; 25hours-hotels.com). The former is grand, elegant and housed in the

former Danish embassy; the latter is in-your-face confident (the Do Not Disturb signs suggest: “Please place aspirin in front of the door and leave”). Both, however, offer something rather wonderful: an after-hours peek into the Berlin Zoo, with rooms overlooking the ostriches and the monkeys, respectively.

Even if you’re staying elsewhere, book a window table at Neni (Budapester Strasse 40, +49 30 120 221 200; neni.at/berlin) the rooftop restaurant at 25 Hours Bikini Berlin; the Israeli-inspired food is great and the view is second to none. Too 21st century? Head to Café Einstein Stammhaus (Kurfürstenstrasse 58, +49 30 2639 1918; cafeeinstein. com), a 1920s Viennese coffee house (Tarantino fans will recognise it from Inglourious Basterds) with a wonderful leafy biergarten.

And if you’re suffering startup fatigue after a few days in hightech Berlin, then here’s one final address you might need: The Barn (Auguststrasse 58; thebarn. de), an ultra-serious coffee shop in Mitte. Why? Because laptops (and strollers) are forbidden, which means the only thing starting up here is a conversation.

Follow Louise @LouiseEast AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BERLIN DAILY.

JUNE 2015

| 133

BUSINESS | TRAVEL

Get your bearings

Louise East gives us a tour of the best startup hot spots and buzziest food joints in east and west Berlin.

CO-WORK AT The Factory, factoryberlin.com

DISCO NAP AT 25 Hours Bikini Berlin, +49 30 120 221 255

CAFFEINATE AT Café Einstein Stammhaus, +49 30 2639 1918

GRAZE AT Markthalle IX, +49 30 6107 3473

SWANK AT Soho House, +49 30 405 0440

ILLUSTRATION BY ELLY WALTON

FEAST AT Lokal, +49 30 2844 9500

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HOT DESK AT betahaus, betahaus.com

BITCOIN AT überlin, uberlin.co.uk

2012

2013

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Business

BUSINESS PEOPLE

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT Shelly Corkery is the fashion director and trend forecaster at Brown Thomas (brownthomas.com), Ireland’s flagship designer store group, which stocks exclusive labels such as Chanel, Prada, Victoria Beckham and Saint Laurent. Her growing commitment is to innovative special projects, examples of which include Irish Designers CREATE, the seasonal Marvel Room and, more recently, the Grafton Street store’s handsome, ground-floor beauty hall. Here she shares some of her career insights.

1

Work in an industry that you adore, then it won’t feel like a job. I love that there is so much variety in my role, including travelling the world and meeting the most exciting international designers.

2

The best career advice I have ever received – and adhered to – is to keep it simple. It is so important always to be very clear on your thought process and don’t confuse the issue. Furthermore, there are so many challenges throughout your working life that it is crucial to have a positive outlook at all times; to think clearly and realise that hard work and discipline pay off.

3

When I’m travelling, black skinny J Brand Jeans are a must-have. They can be paired with a classic white shirt, a cashmere knit or a simple black T-shirt.

Black denims are easy to wear and mix with any outfit.

4

Don’t be afraid to express hesitations.

We all have times of uncertainty, however the main lesson I’ve learned is to discuss the matter; through sharing and weighing up the options you will come out with the best result. Never underestimate the advice of others.

5

I absolutely love the buzz of New York. Nothing beats the atmosphere of downtown. I also adore Paris, a city filled with culture and, of course, fashion. I’m lucky I get to travel there so often.

6

Kindness in business is very important but often underrated. Also, for successful leadership, more than anything it is essential to be a good listener.

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Call: (01) 678 8438 Email: info@greatplacetowork.ie Visit: www.greatplacetowork.ie

Scan here to find out how your workplace can be recognised as one of Ireland’s best

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Flying with Aer Lingus

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

140 Welcome aboard 141 Your comfort and safety 144 Aer Lingus News 156 Flight Connections 160 Our Route Networks 164 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 146 Movies to North America 147 Movies from North America 148 Our Classic Movie Selection 151 Television On Demand 154 Radio On Demand 155 Music On Demand

Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

h words Useful Iris ses and phra

Why not try speaking a few words ge of the native langua while you are visiting Ireland!

me Fáilte Welco ello Dia dhuit H ill Goodbye Slán go fó is... m My name o d m in a ...is you? tú? How are Conas atá d a ith I’m goo Tá mé go m eers Sláinte! Ch u gat Thank yo a h it a m h Go ra ib me scéal Excuse h it le o m h Gab

Cara

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Take a photo and post it to our facebook page.

Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.

Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements

A SS IS TA N CE

If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. u.

When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Friend

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Knock Shannon Kerry

Cork

Edinburgh Newcastle

Belfast

Dublin

Isle of Man Birmingham

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands

Exeter

Brussels

Paris Rennes Nantes

JUNE 2015

London (Gatwick)

Southampton

Jersey

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Amsterdam

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff Newquay

View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.

ETA IL S CO N TA CT D

.com nce@aerlingus specialassista 365 011 Ireland (0818) on–Fri 09:00–17:00 M t & Sun 10:00–16:00 Sa nk Holidays 10:00–16:00 Ba 20 21 UK (0871) 718 886 8333 1 53 Europe +3 2 4222 USA (516) 62

What cities do Aer Lingus fly to and connect to?

See page 160 for full route maps

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

ARE YOU READY FOR TAKE-OFF AND LANDING? 

Is your mobile phone and/or other portable electronic device in 'flight mode'?



Is your seatback fully upright?



Is your armrest down?



Is your tabletop stowed?



Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important.

Please note that certain devices may not be used.

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting.

Devices permitted at any time

Devices permitted in flight only*

Devices prohibited at all times

Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff.

Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).**

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off.

*Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach.

You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

ON Airplane

Mode

On A330 aircraft, to avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, devices must be switched off flight mode once advised that it is safe to do so by crew.

**Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

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Your comfort and safety

KEEP MOVING

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:



Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.



Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another passenger (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.



Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a passenger on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. Similarly, behaviour or language towards other passengers or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

Airbus 330-

200

For your Safety

Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do

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Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and to reduce jet lag.

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems.

If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Mode

Mode

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

EYE CARE If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

TIME ZONES Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone more quickly.

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A totally unique theatrical performance telling the story of the Irish from their very beginning to the present “Captivating and Hugely Entertaining”.

Experience 9,000 years of Irish cultural triumphs, feel their defiance as they fight against near annihilation and watch them rise up from their cultural ashes... “Deeply Moving”.

This innovative production allows the audience to walk through each scene with a mythical guide who tells the 10,000 year story. info@storyoftheirish.ie www.storyoftheirish.ie

Location: Smithfield, Dublin 7 Hop On/Off Bus - Jameson Distillery Stop

Show/Tours Start Every 15 Mins Duration 80 Mins

INFLIGHT

Aer Lingus news FIGHTING SPIRIT Aer Lingus has been announced as the official airline of the Irish Rugby Team. The new partnership will see Ireland’s national airline link up with the Irish rugby team, which has risen to third in the World Rugby rankings after back-to-back RBS 6 Nations Championship wins under the helm of Joe Schmidt and his coaching team.

The three-year deal will see Aer Lingus support the IRFU (Irish Rugby Football Union) by flying players, management and support staff around Europe as they compete in the RBS 6 Nations Championships and in other high profile international tournaments.

As part of the new sponsorship agreement, Aer Lingus has re-named one of its aircraft Green Spirit, which has been painted with IRFU and player branding; it even has its own hashtag #GreenSpirit. The aircraft – now operating across Aer Lingus’s short-haul network to the UK and continental Europe – was unveiled last month, with a further aircraft being branded in similar livery as the team embark on their outward journey in

Aer Lingus’s chief executive officer Stephen Kavanagh and cabin crew, Tracey Johannsson and Gillian Kane, unveil Green Spirit, an Airbus 320, right.

September. In addition, a player from each of the four Irish provinces will be named Aer Lingus Brand Ambassadors and take part in a safety demonstration video to be shown on transatlantic flights. Celebratory send-offs and homecomings are also planned as the team travels to and from this autumn’s global tournament and the Six Nations.

AN OASIS AT JFK AIRPORT Aer Lingus has opened its new business lounge at JetBlue’s state-of-the-art Terminal 5 at John F Kennedy International Airport (JFK) in New York. The all-new facility epitomises the airline’s traditional Irish roots while providing modern convenience, functionality and relaxation to guests. Exclusive to all business class passengers, it provides an oasis of calm within a busy terminal via natural stone wall accents, oak floors, raindrop-shaped light fixtures – and decorative pint glasses along the bar – so that

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business class and Gold Circle members can enjoy the comfort and hospitality of Ireland before they begin their journey. The lounge forms part of an overall relaunch of Aer Lingus business class service. New benefits include:

• A selection of hot buffet soups and sandwiches, wines and spirits, available to all guests • An exclusive pre-flight dining service, offering the very best of modern Irish cuisine • Business centre with

complimentary Wi-Fi • A relaxation area with chaise longue-style seating • Revitalising areas with TVs and shower facilities • Stunning views of the airfield and the historic TWA Flight Center.

FRESH BEGINNINGS

with ecial Olympics Team clan Pictured, Ireland’s Sp De ns tio ica un of comm s.

Aer Lingus director ive tat en res crew rep Kearney and cabin

A firm friendship Aer Lingus continues its long and proud association with the Special Olympics, as the official airline of Ireland’s Special Olympic Team, transporting the 88 athletes, coaches and volunteers to compete at the World Summer Games taking place in LA in July and August. Aer Lingus held collections on board its short-haul flights in support of Special Olympics Annual

Collection Day on April 24.

All of the money generated for this fundraiser helps support the grassroots Special Olympics programme – that’s 9,300 athletes training and developing in 385 clubs around the country. And thanks to the generosity of Aer Lingus passengers and staff, the total collected came to €4,585. We’d like to thank you for your support.

BUMPER SCHEDULES Aer Lingus has announced a new route from Dublin to Liverpool, starting October 25, with 18 flights per week. In a further boost to its growing long-haul business, the airline is also increasing capacity on transatlantic routes for winter.

The Dublin to Washington service has been extended to operate until January 4 with up to four flights weekly. There is increased capacity on flights from Dublin to New York from January 2016 through to March, from Dublin to Boston, and from Dublin to Chicago in November and December, with ten flights per week.

These will serve strong demand over Thanksgiving and Christmas, and enhance connecting opportunities for travellers between Europe and North America. Extra services have also been added to San Francisco and Orlando over Christmas, midterm and Easter.

Located beside baggage belt number six in Dublin Airport’s Arrivals hall, the new Revival Lounge offers business class guests arriving from North America the opportunity to freshen up before leaving the airport. The Revival Lounge is the latest stage of Aer Lingus’ new business class enhancement project, and in direct response to requests for such a facility to be offered upon arrival. The brand new facility offers a range of services, including: six self-contained changing rooms, WCs and showers with fresh towels and amenity kits; steam pressing of shirts on request; refreshments, and a waiting area with a TV and newspapers.

th the Exporter of the ny McIlroy accept bo Laura Murray and Jen behalf of TG Eakins on ard aw nce Excelle Year and the Overall and Andrea Hunter, on nd Sha Empey of accompanied by Lord er of Aer Lingus NI. nag ma business development

Ulster means business Five of Northern Ireland’s most ambitious companies have been honoured for their achievements at the seventh annual Aer Lingus Viscount Awards, in association with Ulster Business. The awards lunch took place on April 21 in the exquisite surroundings of the Members’ Dining Room, at London’s House of Commons, Westminster, and was attended by some of Northern Ireland’s most impressive and tenacious companies, representing a variety of industries and sectors.

The categories and winners were: Most Innovative Company – Devenish Nutrition; Exporter of the Year – TG Eakin; Best Small Business – Hannan Meats; Best Medium Business – AJ Power; Best Large Business – Gilbert Ash, and Business Person of the Year – Jarek Zasadzinkski.

The Aer Lingus Viscount Award for Overall Excellence went to TG Eakin. The awards are one of the most respected events on the business calendar, rewarding organisations that excel in their respective fields.

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Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

Comedy The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel 122 mins

PG

As the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel has only a single remaining vacancy – posing a rooming predicament for two fresh arrivals – Sonny pursues his expansionist dream of opening a second hotel. Stars Judi Dench, Maggie Smith, Bill Nighy.

EN FR DE IT ES

Comedy

Action

A Most Violent Year

R

Jupiter Ascending

PG13

Kingsman: The Secret Service

R

Robot Overlords

PG13

Wild Card

125 mins An immigrant fights to protect his business and family. Stars Oscar Isaac, Jessica Chastain, David Oyelowo

127 mins A young woman must fight to protect Earth’s inhabitants. Stars Channing Tatum, Mila Kunis, Eddie Redmayne

129 mins A spy organisation recruits a street kid to the agency. Stars Colin Firth, Taron Egerton, Samuel L Jackson

90 mins Earth has been conquered by robots from another galaxy.

Stars Gillian Anderson, Ben Kingsley

92 mins A Las Vegas bodyguard gets in trouble with the mob. Stars Jason Statham, Michael Angarano, Dominik García-Lorido

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN

Comedy

R

Accidental Love

PG13

100 mins A tale of romance between a small town girl and a senator. Stars Jessica Biel, Raymond L Brown Jr, Jenny Gulley EN

Drama G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

The Wedding Ringer

R

What We Do In The Shadows

101 mins A socially awkward guy hires a best man for his wedding. Stars Kevin Hart, Josh Gad, Kaley Cuoco-Sweeting

86 mins A group of vampires struggle with modern life. Stars Jemaine Clement, Taika Waititi, Jonathan Brugh

EN

EN

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JUNE 2015

R

Cinderella

PG

Ex Machina

105 mins The classic tale of Cinderella with a modern twist. Stars Lily James, Cate Blanchett, Richard Madden

108 mins A man is selected to participate in an AI experiment. Stars Alicia Vikander, Domhnall Gleeson, Oscar Isaac

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

R

The Boy Next Door 91 mins A cheated on married woman falls for a younger man. Stars Jennifer Lopez, Ryan Guzman EN

EN R

FR DE IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

Action American Sniper 132 mins

EN FR DE IT ES

Action

Biography

Blackhat

R

Chappie

R

Mortdecai

R

Navy SEAL sniper Chris Kyle’s pinpoint accuracy saves countless lives on the battlefield and turns him into a legend. Back home to his wife and kids after four tours of duty, however, Chris finds that it is the war he can’t leave behind. Stars Bradley Cooper, Sienna Miller, Kyle Gallner.

R

Big Eyes

Comedy

PG13

Focus

R

Pride

R

133 mins A furloughed convict hunts a cyber crime network. Stars Chris Hemsworth, Viola Davis, Wei Tang

120 mins A police robot develops the ability to think and feel. Stars Sharlto Copley, Dev Patel, Hugh Jackman

107 mins A man tries to recover stolen paintings. Stars Johnny Depp, Gwyneth Paltrow, Ewan McGregor

106 mins A film about the awakening of painter Margaret Keane. Stars Amy Adams, Christoph Waltz, Krysten Ritter

105 mins A con man has his plans derailed by a femme fatale. Stars Will Smith, Margot Robbie, Rodrigo Santoro

119 mins UK gay activists help miners during a strike in 1984. Stars Bill Nighy, Imelda Staunton, Dominic West

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

Drama

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Roald Dahl’s Esio Trot

PG13

88 mins A retired bachelor has a thing for his neighbour.

Stars Dustin Hoffman, James Corden, Richard Cordery EN

The Voices

R

103 mins A likable guy pursues his office crush. Stars Ryan Reynolds, Gemma Arterton, Anna Kendrick

EN

Unfinished Business

R

The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge out of Water

PG

91 mins A routine business trip goes off the rails in every way. Stars Vince Vaughn, Dave Franco, Tom Wilkinson

92 mins SpongeBob tries to get the Krabby Patty formula back. Stars Tom Kenny, Antonio Banderas

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Yellowbird 90 mins A hero‘s journey with a most unlikely hero.

Stars Arthur Dupont, Sara Forestier, Bruno Salomone

EN PG

FR DE IT SP

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

EN

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We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America.

Timeless favourites such as Annie Hall and Unforgiven are available as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.

Our Classic Movie Selection

All The President’s Men

R

138 mins Stars Robert Redford EN

Dirty Harry

R

102 mins Stars Clint Eastwood EN

The Hangover

R

Alvin and the Chipmunks: Chipwrecked

G

Annie Hall

92 mins Stars Jason Lee

93 mins Stars Woody Allen, Diane Keaton

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

Independence Day PG13

Legally Blonde

145 mins Stars Will Smith, Bill Pullman

96 mins.

Stars Reese Witherspoon, Luke Wilson

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

The Internship

100 mins Stars Zach Galifianakis, Bradley Cooper

119 mins Stars Vince Vaughn, Owen Wilson

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

PG13

The Rock

136 mins Stars Sean Connery, Nicolas Cage

PG

PG13

Batman Begins

PG13

143 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Jennifer Connelly

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Million Dollar Baby

PG13

Unforgiven

Minority Report

PG13

Walk the Line

114 mins Stars Steve McQueen, Jacqueline Bisset

R

Night at the Museum

PG

108 mins Stars Ben Stiller, Carla Gugino

EN

R

Bullitt

EN

145 mins Stars Tom Cruise, Colin Farrell

EN

EN

R

140mins Stars Christian Bale, Michael Caine

132 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Hilary Swank

R

Blood Diamond

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

When Harry met Sally

R

Diary of a Wimpy Kid

PG

Diary of a Wimpy Kid: Rodrick Rules

94 mins Stars Zachary Gordon, Robert Capron

99 mins Stars Zachary Gordon

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

The Darjeeling Limited

R

The Great Gatsby

G

PG13

91 mins Stars Owen Wilson

143 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

X-Men

131 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Gene Hackman, Morgan Freeman

136 mins Stars Joaquin Phoenix

96 mins. Stars Billy Crystal, Meg Ryan

104 mins Stars Patrick Stewart, Hugh Jackman, Ian McKellen

EN

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

PG13

(500) Days of Summer

PG13

95 mins Stars Zooey Deschanel

EN FR DE IT ES

Irish Shorts and Features

Being the PG Creative Quarter, Dublin

Boogaloo and Graham

PG

6 mins Stars Jason Kavanagh

15 mins Stars Charlene McKenna, Martin McCann

EN

EN

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Catch Up

2 mins Stars Cormac O’Broin, Dylan Ward EN

PG

Clutches

2 mins Stars Tomás Gleeson, Ben Tompson, Shane Skerry EN

PG

Control

2 mins Stars Tommy O’Neill, Joe Donofrio, Derek O’Sullivan EN

R

Patrick’s Day

R

98 mins Stars Moe Dunford, Kerry Fox, Catherine Walker EN

One Million Dubliners 80 mins

EN

PG

The Mad Hatter

PG13

3 mins Stars Dermot Magennis, Peter O’Byrne EN

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Our 90 acre park and woodland resort is home to two hotels – Breaffy House Hotel with 106 rooms for relaxed leisure and business breaks and We wou Breaffy Woods Hotel with 128 rooms for family fun and holiday ld to host love your breaks – with only a few minutes stroll between each property. wed The multi-award-winning Healy Mac’s Irish Bar and Restaurant now open at Breaffy House

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There’s a reinvention happening at Café En Seine that brings us back to the essence of what we’re all about. Culture and creativity with a Parisian flair. Taste it in our new menus. Savor it in our signature drinks. And experience it with the launch of our new club nights, Bon Bon with Claire Beck on Friday Mar 6th and Republique with Christian Homan on Thursday Mar 12th.

An epicentre of contemporary Parisian culture and creativity in Dublin on Rue Dawson… MAIS OUI! Enjoy alcohol sensibly. Visit

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Make it your business to visit Pacino’s, Dublin’s premier Restaurant, Bar and Venue

Award winning authentic Italian restaurant with resident Milanese Chef Patron Luca Mazza. Voted the Best Italian Chef in Ireland for the last two years by Italian Food Critic Paolo Tullio you will not get better cuisine in the country.

Using the best of Irish and Italian produce Pacino’s is a prominent member of “Good Food Ireland”, an association that features the best in Irish food producers and providers.

Pacino’s now provides entertainment on both Friday and Saturday nights, through it’s Pacino’s At Night Calendar including the best resident radio DJ’s and International Acts playing in the Cellar Venue weekly.

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Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows.

Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes.

Business

Bloomberg’s Encore

This month, Bloomberg’s Encore Erik Schatzer sits down with Dell founder and CEO Michael Dell for an exclusive interview. Also from Bloomberg are Eye to Eye, featuring fashion icon, Margerita Missoni. Inside, which profiles mega-company, LinkedIn, and a one-off televised version of the World Economic Forum in Tianjin.

Meanwhile, EuroNews bring us Business Planet, Real Economy and Science – all of which cast a cold eye over economics, technology and scientific developments.

Documentary

Super Senses

Tune into Super Senses to explore the extraordinary sense of smell that some animals possess. Also available are Bullit, which features the classical pianist, Yuja Wang, National Geographic’s Megafactories and Cosmos: A Space Odyssey, hosted by astrophysicist, Neil DeGrasse Tyson. For more on Ireland and Irish culture, tune into Building Ireland, which follows the construction of Waterford’s port, or Tracks and Trails featuring novelist and broadcaster Manchán Magan.

Drama Comedy

As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of Fargo, The Walking Dead and Mad Men on offer, as well as multiple episodes from the brand new series, The Knick, and a return to fan favourites, Boardwalk Empire and The Wire.

Lifestyle

The Meaning of Life

Enjoy highlights of the Big Apple as John Fitzpatrick, CEO of Fitzpatrick Hotels North America, invites us to explore his quintessentially Irish hotel and his version of New York in the TV short, Fitzpatrick Hotels New York.

For more on Irish culture, food and music, tune into Other Voices, Kitchen Hero with Donal Skehan or The Meaning of Life, in which Irish broadcasting veteran Gay Byrne interviews Stephen Fry. In this month’s episode of Young Hollywood’s The Evolution Of..., we delve into the lives of the Modern Family cast, including Sofia Vergara, Ty Burrell and more. Also available are Pawn Stars, The Art Of Graffiti, Project Runways All Stars and Jamie’s Comfort Food.

Sport

Kids New Girl

Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a cultural defining series. Now, with four consecutive Emmy Award for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family returns with Season 6. Two episodes are available on board your Aer Lingus flight. Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate two new episodes of It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia.

Also available are multiple episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Girls and Togetherness.

News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

250 Great Goals

Learn to Draw

Kids will surely enjoy Learn To Draw – an educational drawing show, presented by international cartoonist Øistein Kristiansen, that demonstrates new techniques and gives inspiration to get kids drawing! Fans of Learn to Draw may also enjoy charming animated series Pip Ahoy! or an imaginative episode of Rocka-Bye Island. Teens may be more inclined to view and enjoy Austin and Ally, a sitcom about a young internet celebrity or Marvel’s Avengers Assemble starring some much-loved comic characters.

Soccer fans shouldn’t miss 250 Great Goals, which brings a selection of some of the finest goals scored over the last couple of decades, including a stunning free kick from Paul Gascoigne in the 1991 FA semi-cup final and Lionel Messi scoring an amazing goal against Getafe in 2007.

Also on board are Ultimate Rush (a must-watch for extreme sports fans!), The Fast Lane for those with an interest in motorsport, and HSBC: Golfing World 2015.

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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets

OU R V TOP TICE CHO

Fargo SEASON 1 The announcement of Fargo, the series, caused consternation – why besmirch the legacy of a much-loved Coen brothers classic? And on the surface, it seems like a pointless exercise – same nebbishy lead, same supporting cast of criminal misfits, same frozen location.

Another bleakly comic, snow-sunk Midwestern gothic. But the antic morality at the centre of the Coens’ original film is more or less absent. Instead, we’re dealing with something closer to the

reigning spirit of today’s TV drama – violence, nihilism, and a whole lot of anti-heroic behaviour. This might be because the TV format provides fewer opportunities for the Coen’s trademark narrative non-sequiturs, as every seemingly superfluous detail is a possible lead for a future twist.

Since this is only Season 1, we don’t really have to worry about that stuff just yet. It’s enough to just sit back and marvel at the well-wrought drama of each episode.

The characters are compellingly drawn, on the thrilling border between verisimilitude and caricature, especially Billy Bob Thornton’s Lorne Malvo. (“There are no saints in the animal kingdom,” he says, “just breakfast and dinner.”) In fact, the most pertinent Coen comparison isn’t with Fargo – it’s with No Country For Old Men, their 2007 Cormac McCarthy adaptation. We wait on tenterhooks for a second season that’s set to rival Breaking Bad.

A crime drama television series with a twist of black comedy

The Walking Dead SEASON 5 That The Walking Dead even managed to stumble to a fifth season is a testament to the show’s quality. Since the very first episode, a sort of zombie apocalypse has been taking place behind the scenes. Cast and crew infighting, budgeting problems and a revolving door of show runners led to several near-cancellations – still the show remains, acclaim piling up faster than the bodies of the dispatched undead.

The Walking Dead follows a formula familiar to zombie

movie fans – cross-section of American society forms fragile peripatetic community while fleeing the victims of vicious zombifying plague, etc. In the model of films like 28 Days Later, the zombies (called ‘walkers’) can run, and fast.

Unlike most zombie movies, though, there’s little hope to sustain the journey – just peaks and troughs of despair.

If you’ve watched from the first season, you’ll notice how quickly the show turned from a subtle morality study into a

grave-dark drama of shifting power dynamics.

This shift is at its starkest in Season 5. The first episode presents us with a perfect example; when protagonist Rick meet a priest, Fr Gabriel, he is instantly suspicious when the man insists that he has never killed anyone, human or walker. Cynical pessimism is the only reasonable response to the world of The Walking Dead. The stakes can only rise as we lurch towards the show’s penultimate season.

A gritty drama portrays life in the weeks and months following a zombie apocalypse

Mad Men SEASON 7 In the first half of its final season, Mad Men’s future finally arrives. It’s been the show’s guiding tension since the very first episode – when will the 1960s hit? And not just the rock music, drugs and tie-dyes, the familiar counter cultural wallpaper of representations of that era; the 1960s was also the decade of One-Dimensional Man and ‘The Medium Is The Message,’ the birth pangs of both today’s corporate advertising culture and its discontents.

Thus, in Season 7, a computer finally arrives in the office.

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Copywriter Michael Ginsberg is threatened by its static, humming efficiency, and loses his marbles in the time-honoured white collar way. Peggy and Don are in competition for the position of alpha personality, a gender dynamic unimaginable in Season 1, and Dawn Chambers, the show’s first major black character, is promoted to personnel director.

Like Leopold Bloom, another ad man, Don Draper is privileged to be perched on a protagonist’s plateau,

watching the world below transform itself. But he lacks the crucial self-awareness to follow through, and his appetites degrade, rather than enrich, his experience.

By Season 7, even Draper’s mentor Roger Stirling has outstripped him, and the toxic comforts of fat has-beendom are beckoning. It’s up to the second half of Season 7 to show us whether or not he’ll catch up with the world.

A drama series about one of New York‘s most prestigious ad agencies in the 1960s

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Radio On Demand

TO P R A D I O P I C K

Fitzpatrick Hotels

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

Contemporary easy listening from both sides of the Atlantic brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.

INDIE

IRISH

Marty in the Morning

Movies and Musicals

The Hamilton Scores

TXFM‘s Indie Hits

Ceol na nGael

Join Marty Whelan as he takes the chill out of your early mornings with music, news, weather and travel updates from 7–10am, weekday mornings on RTÉ lyric fm.

Movies and Musicals features a broad range of soundtracks from early classics, right through to contemporary scores.

Presented by Aedín Gormley.

The Hamilton Scores features George’s superb choice of music to accompany your flight!

Broadcast on Saturday mornings from 10am–1pm on RTÉ lyric fm.

TXFM bring us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as Blur and Mumford & Sons.

Curated especially for Aer Lingus by TXFM presenter, Claire Beck.

A traditional and folk music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh of RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.

IRISH

KIDS

POETRY

POP

Irish Pulse

Happy Days

Irish Poetry Corner

Chart Hits

Top Ten

Irish Pulse brings you some of the most famous Irish songs in recent history. Listen out for Villagers, We Cut Corners and many more!

Join Emma O’Driscoll in this edition of Happy Days on RTÉjr Radio with songs about flying, exercising during the flight and some fun games that you can play on your journey!

Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets: WB Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith and Oscar Wilde amongst others.

Tune in as Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-tothe-minute pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic!

Weekday evenings you’ll catch ‘The Big Ride Home’ with Dara Quilty on Dublin’s 98FM from 4pm.

Dara’s on board right now to count down the top ten songs of the year!

POP

ROCK

Tubridy

Weekend On One

Ryan Tubridy, presents a daily radio programme on RTÉ 2fm. In this programme, especially recorded for Aer Lingus, he plays some of his favourite radio hits.

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The Weekend on One with Cathal Murray airs every Saturday and Sunday morning between 6–8am on RTÉ Radio 1.

It features an eclectic mix of music from all genres.

TA L K R A D I O

Nova Irish Classic Rock

Documentary on One

Best of Moncrieff

Celebrate some of our favourite albums, from AC/DC to Zeppelin, with Foo Fighters, Dylan, Bowie, and Oasis. Hosted

by Marty Miller from Nova 100FM.

Documentary on One brings you two documentaries. The story of Harry Callan, an Irishman held in captivity during WW2 and the story of Paddy Armstrong, one of the Guilford Four.

Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues.

Tune in every weekday 1.30–4.30pm on Newstalk 106–108 FM.

Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums. Why not begin with some of our crew’s favourites below!

A L L T I M E FAVO U R I T E S

Billy Joel

Amy Winehouse Back to Black Billy Joel An Innocent Man Fleetwood Mac Rumours Status Quo Aquostic (Stripped Bare)

A LT E R N AT I V E

Father John Misty

Father John Misty I Love You, Honeybear Johnny Marr Playland Karen O Crush Songs Morrissey World Peace is None of your Business

E L EC T R O

IRISH

Röyksopp

Hozier

Aphex Twin Syro Basement Jaxx Scars Depeche Mode Sounds of the Universe Jungle Jungle Röyksopp The Inevitable End

OPER A

Theatre of Voices & Paul Hillier

Alfie Boe Alfie Andrea Bocelli Aria – The Opera Album Katherine Jenkins Believe Theatre of Voices & Paul Hillier Lang: The Little Match Girl Passion

Damien Rice My Favourite Faded Fantasy Hozier Hozier (Deluxe Version) Jape This Chemical Sea Sinéad O’Connor I’m not Bossy, I’m the Boss The Coronas The Long Way POP

Kelly Clarkson

Kelly Clarkson Piece By Piece (Deluxe Version) Jessie Ware Tough Love Sam Smith In the Lonely Hour Taylor Swift 1989 (Deluxe)

CL ASSIC AL

Piotr Anderszewski

Alexandre Tharaud Chopin: Journal Benjamin Grosvenor Dances Piotr Anderszewski JS Bach: English Suites Nos 1, 3 & 5 Rachel Podger Guardian Angel JA Z Z

Hypnotic Brass Ensemble

Bill Laurance Flint Brian Blade & The Fellowship Band Landmarks Ginger Baker Why? Joe Jackson The Duke Hypnotic Brass Ensemble Fly: The Customs Prelude RNB

Drake

Drake If You’re Reading This it’s Too Late Electric Wire Hustle Love Can Prevail FKA Twigs LP1 Nicki Minaj The Pinkprint (Deluxe)

COUNTRY

Dierks Bentley

Angaleena Presley American Middle Class Brantley Gilbert Just as I am Dierks Bentley Riser Ray Price Beauty is... The Final Sessions M E TA L

Slayer

Eluveitie Origins Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Megadeth Th1rt3en Metallica Death Magnetic Motörhead The Wörld is Yours Slayer South of Heaven ROCK

Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds

Coldplay Ghost Stories Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds Chasing Yesterday (Deluxe) Robert Plant Lullaby and...

The Ceaseless Roar The Black Keys Turn Blue JUNE 2015

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT

DUBLIN

Where are you flying to?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Passport Control and Security Screening

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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DEPARTURE GATE

DUBLIN

Healy Mac’s on P Ramlee in Kuala Lumpur named Best Irish Bar in the World by The Irish Times & Diageo Now open at Breaffy House Hotel Castlebar, Co Mayo

Healy Mac’s multi-award-winning Irish Bar & Restaurant Malaysia . Indonesia . Ireland . Spain (late 2015)

Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections

Which Terminal are you flying from?

Terminal 1 is connected by a pedestrian link from Terminal 2.

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you.

Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening

You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure Lounge

Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us.

We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

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The Fitzwilliam Casino & Card Club

Clifton Hall | Lower Fitzwilliam St | Dublin 2 | Ireland Tel: 01-6114677 | Visit: www.ďŹ tzwilliamcardclub.com

18+

Please Gamble Responsibly

Free Membership

Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Victoria Seattle

Fargo

Sioux Falls

Omaha Denver

Reno

Madison

Cedar Rapids

Salt Lake City

Milwaukee

Grand Rapids

Fort Wayne

Des Moines

Dayton Indianapolis

St Louis

Oakland

San Francisco

Wichita

Las Vegas

Springfield

Oklahoma City

Little Rock

Burbank

Phoenix

Buffalo

Columbus

Boston Martha’s Vineyard

New York

Washington (National)

Hyannis Nantucket

Harrisburg Philadelphia

Washington (Dulles)

Greensboro Richmond

Raleigh–Durham Knoxville

Charlotte Greenville

Memphis Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Baltimore

Burlington Portland ME

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Cleveland

Cincinnati Lexington

Nashville

Tulsa Los Angeles Santa Ana Orange County San Diego

Louisville

Syracuse

Toronto

Detroit

Chicago

Sacramento

Long Beach

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

San Jose

St. John’s

Quebec Duluth

Columbia

Charleston Savannah

Austin

Houston

New Orleans

Jacksonville

Orlando

San Antonio

Tampa

Aer Lingus European and North American Network

Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) San Juan

Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)

Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-Clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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JUNE 2015

Aguadilla Ponce

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America.

You can travel from Dublin direct to five US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 70 onward connections with our partner airlines.

Halifax

Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Edinburgh Copenhagen

Donegal

Belfast

Knock

Isle of Man

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Newcastle

Birmingham

Cork

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands

London (Gatwick)

Southampton

Exeter

Newquay

Amsterdam

Berlin

Warsaw

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff

Hamburg

Dusseldorf Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Pula Marseille Nice Bologna

Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Perpignan

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante

Ibiza

Athens Catania

Malaga Faro

Agadir

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Izmir

Our Middle East and Australasia Route Network You can now book flights between Dublin and Abu Dhabi, and have full access to flights across the network beyond Abu Dhabi, to points including Australia, Asia-Pacific, the Indian Subcontinent and the Middle East. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

Bahrain Abu Dhabi Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Aer Lingus routes from Dublin (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

Saint Patrick's Cathedral Dublin A beautiful 12th Century Castle & Botanical Gardens Just 10 minutes from Dublin Airport and 13Km from Dublin City Centre • • • • • • •

Open daily from 9.30am Guided tours Audio Language Tours Exhibition Areas Walled Botanical Garden Gift shop AVOCA cafe & retail store Book online www.malahidecastleandgardens.ie +353 1 8169538 Adult €12, Child €6, Student €8, Senior €7.50 Garden only tickes also available.

Open Daily for Visitors www.stpatrickscathedral.ie or call +353 1 4539472 for details

Mower | blower | string trimmer | hedge trimmer | chainsaw

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The EGO POWER+ Mower. The world’s first 56v lithium ion cordless lawnmower The powerof petrol... the convenience of cordless.

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Powered by the world’s first 56-volt Lithium ion battery, the EGO POWER+ mower, with 40% more power than the leading 36-volt battery powered mower, is a genuine alternative to traditional petrol lawn mowers.

With a runtime of 45 minutes* and charge time from flat of just 30 minutes the EGO POWER+ lawnmower is ideal for any sized garden. Weighing less than 25kg it’s easy to manoeuvre and folds flat for easy storage, taking up far less room than a traditional petrol mower.

The EGO POWER+ lawnmower has a cutting width of 49cm and a cutting depth adjustable from 25mm to 80mm using its

single side lever. The height adjustable handle allows you to find the most comfortable mowing position, whilst the 60 litre grass bag capacity means you can mow for longer between emptying cuttings.

A true three-in-one function allows for superior performance whether you are mulching, bagging or using the side discharge.

The EGO POWER+ 56-volt lithium ion battery supplied with the mower can be used for all of the products in the EGO range. Hedge Trimmer, Blower, String Trimmer and Chainsaw so there really is no more need for cables or petrol in the garden.

It’s not just ‘Best in Class’, it’s the first of its kind. *Dependent on cutting conditions and length of grass

EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE AT BROWN THOMAS, DUBLIN

Find your nearest EGO POWER+ dealer online at

Lines open Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm

www.egopowerplus.ie/products or call 01 4677000

Enjoy Wi-Fi and Mobile on board your transatlantic flight today* Wi-Fi on board On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

Switch on Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Mobile Network on board With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you always do**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

Connect Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

Purchase Internet Access Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a 24 hour pass.

Payment Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

Username and Password

164 |

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so and ensure it is on silent or vibrate mode.

Aeromobile Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Welcome SMS Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

Standard roaming rates apply.

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

Connected

Connected

** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy!

W ER NE W ES LO R I C P

Switch on

One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 24 hour pass €14.95 | $18.95 JUNE 2015

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet.

Standard roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator *A330 aircraft only.

Sinnotts Traditional Irish Bar in the heart of Dublin’s old shopping district.

Managing Your Medical History Just Got Easier Your personal medical history, managed by you, made secure by us, available anywhere, anytime.

Upload, Store & Manage Your Medical History Records Online and Access Anytime, Anywhere.

Food Served All Day NHA Irish Sports Bar of theYear 2014 Late Bar & DJ’s Thursday to Saturday

Quote ‘Cara Magazine’ and get 2 for 1 Traditional Irish Stew mymedicalhistory® is a registered Trade Mark of My Medical History Ltd, an Irish registered company. www.mymedicalhistory.ie Log on for a free trial www.mymedicalhistory.eu

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Sinnotts Traditional Irish Bar, South King Street, (St. Stephens Green), Dublin 2 +353 1 4784698 info@sinnotts.ie www.sinnotts.ie

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loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way!

Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.

Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: info@cloghancastle.com Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group Contact us for our Special Offers: www.cloghancastle.com

Managing parking for businesses and consumers.

It’s convenient cashless parking by: APP

American Restaurant & Bar

A FREE APPETISER for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass Terms and conditions apply

Michelin Bib Gourmand

From Houston, TX to Heuston Dublin ™ is available in 300+ locations across Ireland, the UK & USA. Visit www.parkbytext.com

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

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BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie

BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

It’s SO much more than an inflight shopping catalogue.

Haven’t had a chance to look through Boutique yet?

You really don’t know what you’re missing. Here are five reasons you need to check out the new issue – it’s a humdinger (if we do say so ourselves) …

DESIGNER BRANDS AT HIGH STREET PRICES Hands up who loves a bargain? Yes, just as we thought.

You’d have to be a little mad not to enjoy a little luxury shopping at great prices and in Boutique nearly every single item comes with a saving. From ¤9 off YSL’s cult product, Touche Éclat, to an astonishing ¤50 off this Tipperary pperary Crystal necklace, you’ll find all the brands you know and love at amazing prices. And you get to do it all from the comfort of your seat!

Shopping really does’t come much better.

e sav 0 €5

save €4

FANTASTIC FEATURES FILLED WITH TIPS AND TRICKS So here’s the thing you won’t find, you know, in other inflight shopping magazines. In Boutique, we go that one step further and offer some really great reading too. In the new issue you’ll find features on everything from choosing your signature scent (for women and men) to tips on looking younger at any age. You’re welcome.

PRODUCTS THAT HAVE BEEN CAREFULLY HAND-SELECTED Another thing we pride ourselves on here in Boutique is that all the products you’ll find have been hand-selected by the Aer Lingus team. Months are spent with wholesalers and suppliers to ensure everything included in the range is perfect for you, the Aer Lingus flyer. We’ve even found Ireland’s most popular foundation shade in YSL’s Le Teint. Now that’s what we call attention to detail.

ngus aer li sive! u excl EXCLUSIVE BUYS YOU WON’T FIND ANYWHERE ELSE From make-up and jewellery to children’s toys and gadgets, there’s a huge array of travel exclusives – this means you won’t find certain products at our prices anywhere on the high street. What’s more, you can pick up one of two stunning scarves by Irish designer Susannagh Grogan that she’s created exclusively for Aer Lingus. Made from the most beautiful silk and priced at just ¤38, this is the ultimate gorgeous gift for a loved-one or yourself.

YOU CAN WIN TWO FLIGHTS TO SAN FRANCISCO Finally, if lovingly handselected items at incredible prices, plus exclusive buys and interesting features aren’t enough, you can also win flights to San Fran. WE KNOW! In fact, we’re wondering why you’re still reading this ...

JUNE 2015

| 167

TRIP OF A LIFETIME | UNICEF

A fighting chance

Rugby star Donncha O’Callaghan travelled to the Syrian border to see how UNICEF is aiding refugees. n early March, I travelled to Syria’s border with Lebanon to mark the fourth anniversary of the Syrian crisis. I went to meet some of the two million children who’ve fled the ongoing conflict in Syria, with UNICEF Ireland’s executive director, Peter Power, and several journalists reporting on how Irish donations are making a life-saving difference.

I had last visited Lebanon 18 months ago and, while improvements had been made, the situation remains critical. Children are living in squalid conditions, without access to clean water, sanitation and formal education. Many are forced into child labour to support their families and young girls are forced to marry. As a dad myself, it’s heartbreaking to witness the unfathomable cruelty that these children face.

UNICEF is involved in delivering essential services to families and children in need, including water, education, child protection and healthcare. During my trip, I visited an informal education centre where 350 children, aged between four and

I

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JUNE 2015

18 years, are taught a compressed primary school curriculum. It was amazing to see the children gather together and have fun, despite the desperate circumstances in which they are living.

Although I’d experienced it before, I was still appalled to witness the inhumane conditions in which Syrian children are forced to live.

I met families who experienced unimaginable horror, forced to flee with nothing but the clothes on their backs. I met children who have seen things no child should ever see. For the youngest children, the crisis is all they have ever known. I met children as old as seven who’ve never been to school.

It’s hard to grasp the magnitude of this crisis. The sheer scale of UNICEF’s humanitarian response, and the amount of money required each day to finance it, is breathtaking.

Across the region, 14 million children are in need of humanitarian assistance. That’s three and a half times the population of Ireland. This is the single biggest humanitarian crisis since the Second World War. I met 14-year-old Hanadi, who fled Syria with her mother, father and

Above, O’Callaghan offers some light relief, in one of the refugee camps, right.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination?

Please send it t o tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself.

The editor’s decision is final.

15-year-old brother. She’d been living in a tent without access to water or sanitation facilities for 18 months.

Her older sisters were forced into marriage at the age of 12 and 13. Six years on, they’re still in Syria. “We haven’t heard from them in three months. We don’t know if they’re dead or alive,” Hanadi said, adding that her brother was forced into child labour to provide for the family.

I couldn’t help but think of my own children safe at home in Cork.

It’s difficult to witness children suffering, although I am heartened to see the difference that Irish donations make on the ground. Irish people are very generous and UNICEF is working to ensure that the rights and wellbeing of every single child are protected. With your help, we can ensure that no child gets left behind.

And despite the upsetting conditions in which they are forced to live, the children continue to demonstrate incredible courage and determination.

They still want to play with their friends, support their parents and, most of all, go to school.

On our first day, I wandered into one impromptu classroom – a draughty tent with children’s drawings stuck to the tarpaulin walls. The children were singing and shrieking with joy, playing blind man’s buff. The teacher took one look at me, saw my UNICEF T-shirt and welcomed me in. Within minutes the hot pink blindfold was over my eyes and I lumbered my six-foot, sixinch frame around the tent playing with the children. I was reminded, yet again, how remarkably resilient children are. We cannot give up on these children. If you’d like to support UNICEF’s life-saving work, please make a donation via unicef.ie.

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©Steljes 2015. Details subject to change without notice. SMART Board, SMART taglines are trademarks or registered trademarks of SMART Technologies in the U.S. and/or other countries. Steljes Limited is the authorised distributor of SMART Technologies in the UK, Ireland, Adriatics and Hungary. E&OE. SJ88497