Cara April/May 2019

TOLKIEN THE TALK Genevieve O’Reilly

LONG ISLAND TEASE Sip and savour North Fork

THRILLING BERLIN High art and dive-bar lows

CONTENTS APRIL/MAY 2019

CHECK IN 4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news and announcements 8 ARRIVALS Meets and greets at Dublin’s T2 15 CHECK IN Must-do events, must-devour dishes, must-read books – we have it covered 28 DETOURIST Eoin Higgins goes off Boston’s beaten track to explore South End 32 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican casts her eyes and ears over new books and podcasts 34 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Actor Amy de Bhrún’s flights of fancy

FEATURES

40 THE LIFE OF REILLY Lynn Enright meets actor Genevieve O’Reilly to talk travel, telly and Tolkien 46 RHYTHM NATION Christie Seaver gets into step with some of Ireland’s most exciting dancers 54 RISING FROM THE ASHES Conor Creigton finds Limerick City in fine fettle 66 NORTH STAR Amy Zavatto enjoys the low-key charms of North Fork, New York 82 TRUE GRIT Arsalan Mohammad art-crawls around Berlin’s eclectic Potsdamer Strasse 92 SIGHTS UNSEEN Eoin Higgins askews Tenerife’s resort towns to explore the island’s natural beauty and a fitful culinary scene

REGULARS

BUSINESS

77 BOXSET BREAKS 110 BUSINESS & LIFE Ed Power’s blockbuster screen stays Lucy White’s love letter to the always 101 FIVE BEST IRISH GOLF RESORTS stoic London Fionn Davenport gets into the swing of 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Ireland’s finest golf clubs and hotels MIAS Pharma MD Ann McGee offers 106 48 HOURS IN VENICE us a snapshot Elizabeth Heath’s Venetian blinders 118 HIP, HIP MARAIS 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Nancy Rockett rests her head in the On-board info, entertainment and retail Hotel du Petit Moulin, Paris 152 A FINE VINTAGE 120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT We dip into Aer Lingus’ photographic Gleans from Beantown by Boston archives and time-travel to the 1950s College’s Dr Bob Mauro

Brown

Thomas

is

Ireland’s

most

beautiful

department store featuring the best brands in the world Our

flagship

store,

a

landmark

on

Dublin’s

Grafton Street since 1849, is the luxury destination for Women, Men, Beauty, Home and Gifting Alaïa Alexander McQueen Aveda Balenciaga Bobbi Brown Bottega Veneta

Burberry

Canada Goose

Celine

Chanel

Charlotte Tilbury Chloé Christian Louboutin Claudie Pierlot Cloon Keen

Dior

Dolce & Gabbana

Erdem Fendi

Foxford Woolen Mills Frédéric Malle Ganni Giorgio Armani Givenchy

Gucci

Jil Sander

Jimmy Choo

Kilian

La

Mer

Louis Vuitton M.A.C

Maje

Hermès La

Huda Beauty

Lainey Keogh

Jo Malone London Prairie

Laura

Louise Kennedy Manolo Blahnik

KDK

Mercier

Kenzo Loewe

Lucy Nagle

lululemon

Max Benjamin

Max Mara

Memo Paris Miu Miu Moncler Mulberry Nars Paul Smith Prada Rathbornes Richard Quinn Rixo Saint Laurent Paris Sandro

Sisley

The Kooples

Stella McCartney

Tiffany & Co.

Temperley London

Tom Ford

Victoria Beckham Waterford Crystal

Valentino Versace

Zadig & Voltaire Zegna

Dublin Cork Limerick Galway

brownthomas.com

4

WELCOME NOTE

WELCOME ABOARD Springtime signals new beginnings – including new loyalty benefits for AerClub members.

W

elcome on board and thank you for flying with us today.

In January we launched our refreshed brand, and we have been delighted with how it has been received, with many of our guests agreeing that it is reflective of a modern, innovative, international airline.

We are constantly looking at ways to improve our guest experience with new products and innovations. Our new Aer Credit Card, developed in partnership with Bank of Ireland, offers the convenience of a credit card with great travel rewards.

This season we launch “Pay with Avios,” another enhancement to our AerClub loyalty programme. ‘Pay with Avios’ enables AerClub members to spend Avios when booking flights on aerlingus.com and in the Aer Lingus app. The more Avios you have, the greater the saving. Interested? Simply sign up for AerClub online and click the ‘Spending Avios’ tab to discover how to redeem Avios against

flights using ‘Pay with Avios’.

In the last year, we have seen more and more of our guests accessing Aer Lingus services and booking flights on their phones – usage of the Aer Lingus mobile app has increased by 50 per cent in the last year. Our addition of integrating Apple Pay in March offers a seamless and secure payment option, with guests able to make secure in-app payments using facial recognition or touch ID. It also allows for payment in euro, sterling and dollars.

Across our fleet we are introducing mood lighting, designed specifically to enhance your guest experience. Effective cabin lighting has a significant impact on guest comfort, and should enhance your overall inflight experience.

Thank you for reading and have a pleasant journey.

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.

AERCLUB INCENTIVES Registered with AerClub? Sign up today, collect Avios and get money off your flights using ‘Pay with Avios’ on aerlingus.com and the Aer Lingus app.

UNICEF UPDATE Aer Lingus UNICEF ambassadors recently returned from Sierra Leone to see how your Change for Good donations are used. Look out for our onboard April Special Collection, which will focus on aiding the Binkolo Community Health Centre.

DRIVING AMBITION Aer Lingus has partnered with Avis Budget Group, to offer a wide range of rental vehicles. Also, Aer Lingus guests can collect three Avios per €1 spent with Avis and two Avios per €1 spent with Budget. Book at cars.aerlingus.com.

Pictured L-R: (back) Vahan Tchrakian, Tax; Yvonne McWeeney, Finance and Capital Markets; Mairéad Ní Ghabháin, Commercial Litigation and Dispute Resolution; Michael Jackson, Managing Partner; Richard Kelly, Finance and Capital Markets; Gráinne Callanan, Corporate; Kieran Trant, Corporate; and Niamh Maher, Commercial Real Estate.

Pictured L-R: (front) Brian Doohan, Tax; Geraldine Carr, Employment; and Padraic Roche, Corporate.

New Partner Appointments Matheson is pleased to announce further expansion at the firm with the appointment of ten new partners. Reflecting the continued rapid growth and development of our business, the appointments are spread across our practice in the areas of Finance and Capital Markets, Commercial Real Estate, Corporate, Employment, Tax, Commercial Litigation and Dispute Resolution. With six global offices, 96 partners and tax principals, and over 700 legal and business support professionals, Matheson provides the full range of legal advice and services our clients need, when they need it.

Matheson. The Irish law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland.

For further information about our legal services, contact our Managing Partner Michael Jackson at michael.jackson@matheson.com, or your usual contact at Matheson.

Top 20 Most Innovative Law Firm in Europe Financial Times Innovative Lawyer Awards 2018 International Firm in the Americas International Tax Review 2018 Number One Ranked Irish Funds Law Practice acting for 30% of Irish Domiciled Investment Funds by AUM Monterey Insight Ireland Fund Survey 2018 Winner, Eight Deals of the Year, in M&A, Equity Capital Markets, Debt Capital Markets, Financial Services, Loans and Financing Finance Dublin Awards 2018

www.matheson.com

EDITORIAL

EDITOR Lucy White DEPUTY EDITOR Eoin Higgins SUB-EDITOR Sheila Wayman CONTRIBUTORS Nicki Buglewicz, Aoife Carrigy, Brian Conway, Conor Creighton, Fionn Davenport, Caroline Foran, Elizabeth Heath, Hannah Hillyer, Bridget Hourican, Tristan Hutchinson, Arsalan Mohammad, Ed Power, Jake Rajs, Robert Rieger, Chlóe Sandoz, Christie Seaver, Matthew Tortolano, Elly Watson, Anthony Woods, Amy Zavatto

ART

ART DIRECTOR Niamh Richardson CREATIVE DIRECTOR Bill O’Sullivan

ADVERTISING

ADVERTISING MANAGER Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie ADVERTISING COPY CONTACT Derek Skehan, +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie

ADMINISTRATION

FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Brett Walker ACCOUNTS MANAGER Lisa Dickenson CREDIT CONTROLLER Angela Bennett CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Clodagh Edwards

GROUP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lizzie Gore-Grimes GROUP CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Melanie Morris GROUP EDITOR AT LARGE Laura George EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Ann Reihill

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

CHAIRMAN Laura George DIRECTORS Patrick Dillon Malone, Clodagh Edwards, Melanie Morris, Robert Power

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD

CEO Clare Broadbent MD Christina da Silva COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Justine Daly CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stuart Purcell FINANCE DIRECTOR Jane Moffett STRATEGY & BUSINESS DIRECTOR Ann Hartland

+44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE PUBLICATIONS LTD

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663

CONTRIBUTORS With 20+ years of experience as a photographer, Dan Kennedy has an enviable roster of clients and a portfolio packed with A-listers. His glossy portraits regularly appear in publications including the Saturday and Sunday Times, The Hollywood Reporter and Billboard magazine, and talent in front of the lens has included Keira Knightley, Angelina Jolie, Drew Barrymore, Richard Madden and Dua Lipa. Dan was delighted to photograph Cara’s cover star Genevieve O’Reilly at the stylish Curtain Hotel in East London – see more from his shoot on page 40.

Originally from County Kildare, journalist and author Lynn Enright now lives and works in London, writing for publications such as the Guardian, Vogue, Grazia and Refinery29. Her first book, a non-fiction examination of female health and sexuality called Vagina: A Re-Education, was published in March. When she’s not writing, she’s usually to be found at the theatre or at the cinema, or cooking in the Hackney flat she shares with her husband. In her first commission for Cara, Lynn meets Genevieve O’Reilly, the Irishborn actor who is about to be seen in Tolkien.

Luca Truffarelli is an Italian photographer and video maker based in Dublin since 2009. In the past few years he has been involved mostly in contemporary dance and theatre work, not only as a photographer and videographer, but also as a visual designer and artistic collaborator.

For his Cara debut, he travelled around Ireland, France and Germany, where he had the pleasure of meeting and portraying some of the best choreographers and performers on Ireland’s contemporary dance scene – turn to page 46 for his exquisite portraiture.

© 2019 Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

ON THE COVER

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie.

TOLKIEN THE TALK Genevieve O’Reilly

LONG ISLAND TEASE Sip and savour North Fork

THRILLING BERLIN High art and dive-bar lows

Genevieve O’Reilly photographed by Dan Kennedy and assisted

by Matthew Tortolano at The Curtain, Shoreditch. Styling by Brian Conway, makeup

by Nicki Buglewicz and hair by Chlóe Sandoz.

WELCOME TO OUR NEW ISSUE! WE ARE ALL YOURS. FEEL FREE TO TAKE THIS MAGAZINE AWAY FOR YOUR ONWARD JOURNEY. WE WOULD ALSO LOVE YOUR FEEDBACK AND TRAVEL PHOTOS VIA TWITTER @CARAMAGAZINE.

DISCOVER

THE PRINCE OF WALES BAR The insignia on the stool in the world-famous Prince of Wales Bar at Ashford Castle reminds the visitor of the historic visit of the then Prince of Wales in 1905. The Prince, who later became King George V, planned to stay on the Ashford Estate for a week, but with so many activities even back then, he extended his stay to a month.

You too can discover our outstanding Estate activities this spring and enjoy a drink in the Prince of Wales Bar to celebrate eight centuries of history at Ashford Castle.

8 0 Y E A R S O F H O S P I TA L I T Y 1939-2019 Ashford Castle, Cong, Co. Mayo T: +353 (0) 9495 46003 | E: ashford@ashfordcastle.com ASHFORDCASTLE.COM

CHECK IN

ARRIVALS

There we were now, loitering with intent at Dublin’s T2. Were you there too?

WHO? Leon, Bianca, Jackie and Benice Shakeshaft FLYING IN FROM ... Newquay LEON SAYS ... “We were over for a 50th birthday party!”

WHO? Antoine Grandjean FLYING IN FROM ... Brussels ANTOINE SAYS ... “I’m here in Dublin to spend a weekend with friends.”

WHO? Edwina O’Connor and Tilly Daly FLYING IN FROM ...

Amsterdam TILLY SAYS ... “We went to see all of the sights, including the Anne Frank House.”

WHO? Losene Gaetan and Cecile Allard FLYING IN FROM ... Paris LOSENE SAYS ... “I love rugby so will definitely visit the Aviva this weekend while we’re here.”

WHO? Betty Byrne Harrison FLYING IN FROM ... London BETTY SAYS ... “Just back from a short trip visiting family.”

WORDS BY HANNAH HILLYER / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

8

10

ADVERTORIAL

THE REAL THING

Every business can benefit from a mentorship scheme – and few get much bigger than the Thrive Project, a collaboration between Coca-Cola Ireland and Enterprise Ireland.

T

wenty-nineteen will see the fourth year of The Thrive Project get underway, a six-month leadership initiative developed by CocaCola Ireland and Enterprise Ireland to inspire and nurture the next generation of ambitious food and drinks companies.

Each year the programme gives eight entrepreneurial founders access to some of Coca-Cola’s global experts through the opportunity to visit Coca-Cola’s headquarters in Atlanta for an intensive three-day bootcamp.

In addition, participating companies benefit from Enterprise Ireland’s support to develop robust business plans and

avail of one-to-one coaching.

Petre Sandru, country manager of Coca-Cola Ireland, above, said: “The Thrive Project is all about leadership within the food and drink industry. As one of the world’s most-loved brands, we are delighted to be in a position to share our best practices and experience with innovative Irish companies who each have the potential to become global brands. The last three years of the project have been a great success and we’re looking forward to growing that impact over the coming years.”

Orla Battersby, divisional manager, food division, Enterprise Ireland said:

“Our mission at Enterprise Ireland is to inspire and support business leaders with global ambition to scale their businesses and build their capability to reach into new export markets. The objectives of The Thrive Project perfectly align with this mission as it allows us to share our expertise in business development and leadership capability with these innovative Irish companies.”

We catch up with four past participants of the programme, to learn about their businesses, what advice they would give to budding entrepreneurs and how The Thrive Project benefitted them directly.

DÁITHI O’CONNOR

FOUNDER OF REVIVE ACTIVE

Revive Active – a Thrive Project participant in 2018 – produces a range of all-natural health supplements designed to enhance cardiovascular health, boost energy levels and support the immune system.

Products are available online and in more than 1,000 health food stores and pharmacies across Ireland, and in 60 exclusive stores around London.

What was the biggest benefit of The Thrive Project for your business? Our access to senior executives at Coca-Cola headquarters in Atlanta was very beneficial. There we learned about future world trends, corporate responsibility, supporting your community and different aspects of recycling as we head toward a greener world. The work with Enterprise Ireland challenged us to build a more robust financial model, in line with our ambition.

What advice would you give future participants? Be prepared, listen, learn and enjoy the journey. I really enjoyed the company of the other participants and we shared many stories and enjoyable evenings.

What are your plans for the future? We plan to launch our Zest Active health food supplement in the US in July. This powdered supplement comes in a stick sachet with a zesty orange flavour. Benefits include natural energy, immune support, cognitive function and muscle recovery after training.

KAROL BUTLER FINANCIAL DIRECTOR OF GOOD4U The Good4U success story began with the seeds of a great idea nurtured by members of the Butler family on Ireland’s Northwest coast. Distributing healthy sprouts, seeds and pulse-based snacks, Good4U now sells in nine international markets, with more on the horizon. Their Thrive Project journey began in 2016.

Which aspect of The Thrive Project impacted you the most?

Our visit to the Coca-Cola headquarters in Atlanta was so insightful. It really inspired us as a company to think big and also gave us great ideas to approach sustainability.

What advice would you give future participants? Have a clear objective for the programme and, above all else, dedicate the time to implementing your key learnings.

What is the future vision of Good4U? Making health foods and snacks that are honest, tasty and functional are the prerequisites that ensure product integrity remains at the heart of everything we do. Good4U is revolutionising the health food and snacking space with natural, functional foods, so with a clear vision to become the world’s most loved and trusted health food brand, we have several new markets in the pipeline between now and 2020.

12

ADVERTORIAL

In it to win it – Orla Battersby of Enterprise Ireland and Ronan Farren of Coca-Cola Ireland with participants of The Thrive Project.

SIOBHAN LAWLESS OWNER OF THE FOODS OF ATHENRY Behind The Foods of Athenry is an enthusiastic farming family. A love of good food is something that was, and still is, a family passion; a way of life turned into a business. Believing that “good food promotes good health”, the company takes great care in preparing their own brand of breakfasts, lunchbox snacks and treats, including vegan, gluten and dairy free products. The Foods of Athenry participated in The Thrive Project in 2016, the first year of the programme.

What was the biggest insight from your Thrive Project experience? The access to so many of Coca-Cola’s top people across so many different areas of their business was by far the most beneficial. Being selected as a participant in a programme aimed at business growth and run by a global giant changed the way I thought about our business. During one conversation in Atlanta, when I was talking about our journey with Coca-Cola, the other person was blown away by our narrative but felt we needed to change our packaging. He was right. I came home a changed woman – more confident and determined to improve. From there we refreshed the brand, changed the packaging and three years later are in a place that I may not have journeyed to had it not been for The Thrive Project.

What advice would you give future participants of the programme? Embrace it. Stay open-minded and implement small, continual changes.

Any exciting plans on the radar? Always. The ground work is done and the branding is ready to take on the world. Recently we’ve launched some new products and are already selling them into new export markets.

AARON O’DONOHUE AND ALISON STROH

FOUNDERS OF DR. COYS

Dr. Coys produces a range of healthy confectionary and kitchen ingredients, designed to avoid a spike in blood sugar – even the chocolate is high in fibre and vitamin E, and free of gluten and lactose. Cofounders Aaron O’Donohue and Alison Stroh joined The Thrive Project in 2017 and have been developing their brand ever since.

How did The Thrive Project enhance your business? The size of the group participating in the programme enabled a lot of interaction, engagement and focus in the sessions. For us, the innovation and marketing workshops in Coca-Cola’s UK offices were really inspiring and gave us lots of tips around business planning, the importance of risk mitigation and how to take the opportunity to move into international markets.

Advice for future participants? Get involved with all elements and keep in touch with the companies you participated with.

What does the future hold? With more and more consumers realising that managing blood sugar levels is key to weight control and long term health, Dr. Coy’s projects will continue to grow over the next three years. We have an exciting new product development pipeline and a focus on launching in new markets.

THE THRIVE PROJECT WILL RUN AGAIN IN 2019 WITH ANOTHER EIGHT COMPANIES SELECTED TO PARTICIPATE. TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE THRIVE PROJECT RUN BY COCA-COLA IRELAND AND ENTERPRISE IRELAND, VISIT COCA-COLA.IE.

BLARNEY CASTLE

&

GARDENS

Renowned for Bestowing the Gift of Eloquence Spring in the gardens at Blarney Castle is always an exciting period. New life is exploding everywhere with splashes of colour and fresh growth around every corner. Rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias are part of the spring show, and the gardens at Blarney Castle are famous for their large-scale plantings around the mansion and Himalayan walk.

The woodlands are not to be outdone though and put on their own breath-taking displays of bluebells and wild garlic, which carpet the ground in swathes of blue and white. As Ireland’s first Wildlife Estate, it stands to reason that this haven so close to the city is a wonderful location to watch nature wake up from its winter slumber.

A stealthy visitor may spot an elusive kingfisher along the riverside walks or a red squirrel in the arboretum. It’s no surprise that Blarney’s gardens are the most visited in Ireland.

April – May 9am – 6pm (Last Admission 5pm) www.blarneycastle.ie | info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork)

CHECK IN

© 2019 HERBERT YPMA

EAT | READ | GO

ITALIAN SPLENDOUR Travel expert Herbert Ypma has a knack for finding the new in well-trodden destinations: after all, this is the author and photographer who dreamed up the HIP Hotels series featuring “Highly Individual Places”. His latest tome turns Ypma’s experienced eye to Italy’s best-loved regions, from Sicily to Venice by way of the Amalfi Coast. New Map Italy: Unforgettable Experiences for the Discerning Traveller (Thames and Hudson, £29.95, from April 18) serves up glossy photography, hand-drawn maps and judicious nuggets of tried-and-true knowledge. Prepare to wonder. thamesandhudsonusa.com

16

CHECK IN

NO MR SOFTEE It’s not all sweetness and sprinkles in the ice cream van business. Fresh from winning the Audience Short Film Award at the recent Dublin International Film Festival, Dublin-based director Ross Killeen, who runs production company Motherland, brings his short documentary 99 Problems to New York’s 18th annual Tribeca Film Festival that runs this April 24 until May 5. Catch one of four public screenings (April 28 to May 4) for the inside scoop on the fierce turf wars of this unregulated sector, served up by fellow Dubliner and self-proclaimed “king of the ice cream men”, Mister Pinky. tribecafilm.com

POWER HUNGRY Continuing at the British Museum in London until May 27, Feeding History: The Politics of Food traces the story of the food we eat and the power relations that surround it through a selection of objects spanning several millennia. The exhibition explores the premise that without early farming tools such as the humble plough, cities and civilisations would never have bloomed, yet traditional systems of farming enable the ever-widening gap between wealthy landowners and impoverished workers of that land.

STAR OF STRIPES Irish-born American artist Sean Scully is recognised as one of the key abstract artists of our time, and this retrospective of his acclaimed Landline series demonstrates why. Gathering almost 50 artworks in various media – from paintings in oil, pastel and watercolour to photography and stack sculptures – the exhibition explores Scully’s signature marriage of ethereal American abstraction with the geometry of European concrete art. Catch it at Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art, Connecticut until May 19. thewadsworth.org

POWER HUNGRY IMAGE : EGYPTIAN MODEL OF BUTCHERS PREPARING MEAT. WOOD © THE TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM STAR OF STRIPES IMAGE: LANDLINE THAT PINK, 2017, OIL ON ALUMINIUM, IMAGE COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND KERLIN GALLERY, DUBLIN © SEAN SCULLY

INDIE ROCKS Record Store Day has grown in a decade into a truly global event, with participating independent record stores across every continent except Antarctica – and more than 200 of them in Ireland and the UK alone. A highlight this year will be U2’s release of their threetrack EP, The Europa, available exclusively at participating indie record stores on Saturday, April 13, and containing mashups of previously unreleased live material from their recent eXPERIENCE + iNNOCENCE tour. recordstoreday.com

DISCOVER THE HOME of IRISH DESIGN Flagship Store Nassau Street, Dublin 2

TEXTILES | POTTERY | CRAFTS | GIFTS | CRYSTAL | JEWELLERY | KNITWEAR | ART

Award Winning Restaurant Overlooking Trinity College WORLDWIDE SHIPPING | TAX FREE SHOPPING | FREE WIFI Stores Nationwide • www.kilkennyshop.com

18

CHECK IN

Spilling Over: Painting Color in the 1960s explores how the painters of that metamorphic decade used colour both as a medium for political statement and as a tool to highlight the personalised nature of perception. Running through the summer at New York’s Whitney Museum of American Art, the exhibition gathers works from the museum’s own collection to consider developments such as the advent of acrylic paints and the emergence of schools of Color Field and Op Art. whitney.org BUDDING STEM STAFFED BY ROBOTS AND WITH MORE THAN 300 INTERACTIVE SCIENCE AND SPORT EXPERIENCES TO ENTERTAIN ALL AGES, EXPLORIUM TARGETS OUR INNATE CURIOSITY AS THE KEY TO LONG-LASTING STEM LEARNING (AND FAMILY-FRIENDLY FUN). RACE AGAINST A SKELETON ON A BICYCLE OR TRY FOR A PENALTY AGAINST A ROBOT GOALIE; CREATE A BLOCKBUSTER IN MOVIEWORLD OR CRAWL THE WORLD’S LONGEST INDOOR CAVING SYSTEM. OPEN NOW AT THE NATIONAL SPORT AND SCIENCE CENTRE IN SANDYFORD, AT THE EDGE OF THE DUBLIN MOUNTAINS. EXPLORIUM.IE

TOMORROW’S WORLD What will tomorrow’s space travel look like? How can startups scale up? What lessons can Banksy and Kim Kardashian offer about capturing the Modern-Age imagination? Europe’s fastest growing tech conference brings 200 diverse international speakers to Dublin Tech Summit (RDS, April 10-11) to answer these questions and more: billings range from CTOs Werner Vogels (Amazon) and Chris Slowe (Reddit) to author Jeetendr Sehdev and astronaut-in-training Alyssa Carson, tipped as a future Mars walker. dublintechsummit.com

SAX ON THE BEACH With more than 500 concerts, recitals and jazz trail gigs under their belt since their first festival in 2000, the organisers of the annual Bray Jazz Festival in Co Wicklow celebrate its 20th anniversary this May Bank Holiday weekend (May 3–5). The annual shindig has been named “one of the very best small jazz festivals in Europe” so expect an eclectic line-up of local and international greats of jazz and improvised music, framed by a charming seaside setting. brayjazz.com

EMMA AMOS (B. 1938), BABY, 1966. OIL ON CANVAS. WHITNEY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART, NEW YORK; PURCHASED JOINTLY BY THE WHITNEY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART AND THE STUDIO MUSEUM IN HARLEM © EMMA AMOS; COURTESY OF THE ARTIST & RYAN LEE GALLERY, NEW YORK

COLOUR CODING

20

CHECK IN

STORY POWER Working as editor-in-chief of Glamour in New York City since 2018, Ballincollig-born Samantha Barry was headhunted from her CNN Worldwide executive producer role by none other than Anna Wintour. Barry spearheaded Glamour’s seismic move from monthly magazine to online entity and she is also a guest lecturer at Yale and a Sulzberger Fellow at Columbia University.

She has been living in New York since 2014. By Caroline Foran.

What’s the best thing about life in Manhattan? Living on the island, it’s the spontaneity of its people that I love. I’ll wake up on a Saturday and without having planned it, meet a friend for a coffee. Twenty minutes and you’re there. That just doesn’t happen in sprawling London, or even in Dublin, but here we’re a very short subway ride or Uber drive away from each other.

It makes me really happy. I love this city.

What’s the biggest challenge as editorin-chief at Glamour? It was going into a legacy brand and we’re figuring out “how do you keep the best parts of that legacy going while also innovating and pushing forward with storytelling?”

Glamour has been around since 1939 and it started with the tagline “for the woman with a job”. A lot of my first year was spent thinking: How do I service the journalism that Glamour is known for – the amazing storytelling and of empowering women, whether that’s career negotiations or body inclusiveness in fashion spreads? How do I keep that very specific DNA intact, while also evolving with the times, using platforms such as video, social storytelling and incredible digital content packages?

That’s the constant challenge but it’s a really exciting one.

You made waves in the industry when shifting Glamour from print to digital.

How has it been received? It’s mostly positive. I’ve spent a lot of the year getting the team to a place where nobody just works on print; everybody has worked across all of these different platforms.

One of the biggest online hits for us was a personal essay called “I’m a great cook.

Now that I’m divorced, I’m never making dinner for a man again.” It struck a chord with so many people and was massively shared on social media. I still understand the power of print – I love it, in fact I’m looking to plan a print special in the middle of the year. But digital is where Glamour needs to go.

Your first port of call when you land back in Ireland? I’ll go to Avoca Café for lunch, I absolutely adore it. My favourite Dublin restaurant is The Winding Stair – love that place. Obviously Grogan’s for a pint and a toastie. Ultimately, though, if I’m only home for a few days I’m always going to be trying to track down these two things: an Irish Chinese curry and a chicken fillet roll from Spar. When my friends are in Ireland they torture me with photos of chicken fillet rolls, and you just can’t get an Irish Chinese curry anywhere else in the world.

In Cork I’ll be at Mutton Lane, one of the oldest pubs in the city. It’s always where I go for my Christmas pint, or I’ll go to Riordan’s for a bop.

How has being Irish helped you in the US? I think Irish people are comfortable in any room. They can chat to everyone from the rock star to the concierge – we’re just comfortable. We’re not necessarily a nervous people in general, we can have chats with anyone and that really helps.

I’ve met so many amazing Irish people here, all doing really well across different industries, such as tech and finance.

Also, sometimes you can get away with swearing at work if you’re Irish. That’s a bonus.

And your favourite haunts in Manhattan?

I often go to Trinity Place, near work, which is great for Irish style and comfort food, such as a good shepherd’s pie. Or Hudson Hound, which is my local. If I get chill time, I’ll either be in my apartment bingeing on a Netflix series or ticking off my wish list of Broadway shows. Next up is Bryan Cranston in Network.

Best coffee in NYC? Oh God. I’m so basic: I really like Starbucks, which I know isn’t cool to say. But I do, I really like it.

22

CHECK IN

FIGHTING TALK

the results of their craft, but Revelations – the fourth International Fine Craft & Creation Biennial, in the Grand Palais, Paris (May 23–26) – invites the creator into the limelight, and into conversation with a unique mix of professionals and general public. From amateurs to artistic directors by way of collectors and decorators, gallery owners and purchasing offices, that conversation is open to all. An off-site programme promises new perspectives on prestigious landmarks throughout the City of Light. revelations-grandpalais.com

WELL FIT Forget the welly-clad decadence and ear-ringing debauchery of music festivals: Wellfest promises a gathering of all-natural highs. Europe’s largest outdoor health and wellness festival returns to the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, Dublin on May 11-12, with fitness experts and yoga sensations, qualified nutritionists and talented foodies, psychology and mindfulness practitioners and hot new wellness brands. Who needs sweaty tents when we have our very own temples to worship at? wellfest.ie

CRAFTING CONVERSTAIONS IMAGE © ROXANNE FLICK

CRAFTING CONVERSATIONS Craftspeople are often hidden behind

LEADING LADY TURNED OUTSPOKEN FEMINIST ACTIVIST, ACTOR ROSE McGOWAN IS NOT A WOMAN TO MINCE HER WORDS. REFUSING TO KEEP SCHTUM ON THE DARKER SIDE OF WHAT SHE CALLS THE CULT OF HOLLYWOOD (THIS FROM SOMEONE BORN AND RAISED IN A RELIGIOUS CULT), McGOWAN BECAME A THORN IN THE SIDE OF MISOGYNIST MOGULS, HELPING TO GALVANISE THE #METOO PHENOMENON. WORDS+IDEAS: ROSE McGOWAN PROMISES AN EVENING OF THOUGHT-PROVOKING HONESTY AT DUBLIN’S NATIONAL CONCERT HALL, ON APRIL 27, WHEN THIS VOICE OF A GENERATION IS INTERVIEWED LIVE. NCH.IE

One Destination

A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

Save up to 50% by booking online www.cliffsofmoher.ie at least one day in advance OPEN

November, December, January & February 09:00 – 17:00 March, April, September & October: 08.00 – 19.00 May, June, July & August 08:00 – 21:00

Book online in advance to guarantee entry

Book online today Experience a unique landscape and culture by staying in County Clare United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

Co. Clare, Ireland.

E: info@cliffsofmoher.ie

T: +353 65 7086141

www.cliffsofmoher.ie

24

CHECK IN

LUNCH LE BOUCHON BORDELAIS, BORDEAUX I visit this city regularly for work and as a result I have had some incredible meals. I especially adore Château du Tertre for an amazing wine visit followed by lunch. There is a really exciting new breed of chefs redefining the classic French bistro and Frédéric Vigouroux is one such chef, cooking at his brasserie on the Rue Corbin. The menu changes daily and his inventive cooking of classic dishes with a modern twist is outstanding. I love his peanut butter sandwich with breaded langoustines. bouchon-bordelais.com

BREAKFAST SWEET MAPLE, SAN FRANCISCO Between working evenings in a restaurant and also being a mum doing the school run, my favourite thing on my holidays is a lie in. However, when I do partake it needs to be epic.

I stumbled across this neighbourhood joint on a trip to the Bay Area. I discovered later it’s quite famous. Everything here is big and all the classic American breakfast treats are made with a slight Asian twist. Their potato medley with homemade maple bacon is completely restorative and I can’t say enough about the bottomless Bloody Marys ... sweetmaplesf.com

FOOD FLIGHT DINNER THE RIVER CAFÉ,

BROOKLYN, NEW YORK

The food at this Michelin one-star located on the Brooklyn side of the famous bridge is beautiful, but the view, my gosh the view … in fact everything. The wine, the food and Dom Salvador on the piano all add up to the most memorable dining experience of my life. I first came here on my honeymoon, so my heart flutters every time I think of it. rivercafe.com

Lisa O’Doherty is the chief consultant sommelier at The K Club in Kildare, where she has been working for the last 16 years immersing herself in the hotel’s history of wine. Along with maintaining an impressive and extensive wine list, Lisa also shares her wealth of wine knowledge through tours of the hotel’s cellar as well as being the creator of the hotel’s house wine, which she travels to France once a year to make. kclub.ie

DRINKS BAR ABACO, PALMA DE MAJORCA When it comes to cocktails, I’m a classic girl: none of your fancy, new-fangled, flaring mixologists for me. That is why this bar in Palma de Majorca is a firm favourite. Set in the most opulent surroundings, this converted old palace is bursting with character and style. From the moment you arrive you enter a world that time forgot. The fresh fruit spills on to the floor around you, the table service is impeccable and you can surrender yourself to the art of the classic cocktail for a few hours and pretend you do this every day. bar-abaco.es

FROM DUBLIN TO FRANKFURT

Connecting legal expertise in 26 locations on 4 continents Our Dublin office brings our sector focus to the Irish legal market.

Connecting our global experience to our local knowledge in Dublin means that we can truly empower our clients to do more, wherever they do business.

21138

To find out more about our global reach visit WWW.PINSENTMASONS.COM © Pinsent Masons LLP 2019

26

CHECK IN

PALETTE TO PALATE

This season, at Tate Britain’s handsome Rex Whistler restaurant, art lovers who lunch can experience the museum’s EY Exhibition: Van Gogh and Britain (until August 11) brought to life via a series of vibrant, flavourful dishes, left, by chef Alfio Laudani.

Inspired by the post-Impressionist master’s vivid colour schemes, as well as the flavours he favoured, the new menu is also a celebration of the brush stroke technique and the intense colour palette employed by the ground-breaking artist. Admission to the exhibition, followed by a threecourse lunch, costs £53. tate.org.uk

GRUB’S UP

Eoin Higgins sniffs out truffles of food news.

GOOD LIBATIONS Herbal, sweet and pleasantly smoky, comprising woody notes of caramel and fresh nuts, Wild Beech Leaf and Wild Damson are unique, award-winning Irish liqueurs, made from handpicked beech leaves, or damsons, in Co Offaly.

Pour a splash on the rocks, or add to a favourite cocktail for a vivid taste of the Irish countryside. From €20 at select stockists.

BEEFCAKE SHAKE-UP

Good news for footworn followers of Galwegian cult burger merchants, Handsome Burger: the chaps behind the nomadic pop-up have finally put down roots. While understandably developing a solid fanbase for ticking the ubiquitous “local”, “seasonal” and “fresh” food boxes, the outfit have further stood out from the crowd via an instinctive sense of flavour and texture that places their patties-in-baps firmly within the drop-dead gorgeous zone. handsomeburger.com

BREW CALEDONIA WITH MOGWAI, TWO DOOR CINEMA CLUB AND YOUNG FATHERS HAVING PREVIOUSLY HEADLINED, THE EDINBURGH CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL IS ALMOST AS MUCH ABOUT LOVING WHAT’S GOING ON OUTSIDE THE GLASS AS IT IS WITH WHAT’S WITHIN. THAT’S NOT TO SAY THERE’S NOT A STELLAR LINE-UP ON THAT FRONT TOO. WITH ACCLAIMED BREW CREWS 6° NORTH, AMUNDSEN, NORTHERN MONK BREW CO AND IRELAND’S OWN THE WHITE HAG IN ATTENDANCE, THIS IS A CRAFT BEER EVENT TO BE SIPPED, RATHER THAN GLUGGED. MAY 24-25; EDINBURGHCRAFT BEERFESTIVAL.CO.UK

AN ELEGANT NEW LOOK FOR THE MOST STYLISH SLEEPOVER IN TOWN Leading five star boutique hotel, off Baggot Street in Dublin’s south city.

Overnight stays from €199 per room include breakfast in our beautifully refurbished restaurant, The Eddison.

Dylan Hotel (01) 660 3000

Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4

reservations@ dylan.ie

28

THE DETOURIST=

DETOURIST Eoin Higgins veers off the beaten track to discover locales worth loving. Here, he finds Boston’s South End full of beans.

S

outh End, Boston is a Landmark District and North America’s largest surviving residential Victorian neighbourhood. Comprised of often pristine, 19th-century bow-fronted houses, typically five-storeys tall, the dapper district also plays host to 11 public parks, 16 community gardens as well as many other worthwhile diversions.

DRINK Serving cheap beer, so-so mixed drinks and impeccable jazz 365 days a year, Wally’s Café on Massachusetts Avenue claims to be among the oldest jazz clubs in the US. Cosy, proudly local, and regularly hosting world-class playing – Wally’s is often standing room only. wallyscafe.com

EAT French fare, but more specifically in the style of the intimate bouchons of its eastern French namesake, classy Bar Lyon is on Washington Street and serves a quenelle de brochet (a Lyonnaise fish dish) that is as memorable as it is mouthwateringly delicious – a Beantown must. barlyon.com

THE DETOURIST=

LOOK Browse around the SoWa (South of Washington) area for a curated eyeful of some of the city’s best art galleries and artworks. This is especially so on the first Friday and Saturday in May, when artists open their workshops to the public in a scintillating showcase of creativity. sowaboston.com

CAFFEINATE Famed citywide for a sublime pour-over, which gently releases hitherto hidden flavour from locally-roasted Gracenote coffee beans, Render Coffee, on Columbus Avenue is a comfy, chilled, premium coffee spot that also does a natty line in snacks, including a superb grilled cheese. rendercoffeebar.com

BEAUTIFY Founded by Tara Foley in 2013, Follain, on Dartmouth Street (there’s also an outlet on Charles Street), is all lightness and air and swish skincare scents emoting health and vitality.

Like a super clean-living apothecary’s boutique, shelves hold oodles of eco and ethical cult beauty products. follain.com

29

BROWSE A fine vintage bounty (not to mention first class people watching) can be found among the rails and shelves at SoWa Vintage Market on Albany Street, retailing “a rotating roster of fashion, jewellery, furnishings, objects and fresh finds”.

Every Sunday, 10am to 4pm. sowavintagemkt.com

30

CHECK IN

HOMEMADE

Our late spring edit of the craftiest, loveliest Irish jewellery, gifts, salves and homewares ...

1

2

3

4

5

6

1. TABLE TALK

A far cry from ubiquitous flatplack furniture, Colin Harris’s limited edition Trigonon Low Table and Trigonon Side Table are stuff of investable beauty.

Available in wild Irish ash or ebonised European oak. €795 and €525 at colinharris.ie.

2. PAPER TRAIL

Take pride in your To Do Lists with a Fergus O’Neill linen-covered notebook, each screen-printed by hand and bound in Dublin city, their patterns inspired by local streets, parks and buildings. €12.50 at irishdesignshop. com.

3. NEO GEO

A little bit Art Deco, a little bit Modernist, the 15-piece Homespun collection by Names Dublin is at once nostalgic and modern. Handmade on Dublin’s Drury Street. Matte silver ‘Bláinid’ earrings €165 at namesdublin.com.

4. WING IT

Chintzy in the best possible way, Eilís Galbraith’s textile lamps are inspired by the bucolic landscapes of her native Donegal.

Spring-clean a dark corner with this chirpy (sorry ...)

‘Birds Deep in Trees’ table light. €85 at eilisgalbraith.ie.

5. NEW WAVE

Also looking to nature for inspo – in Dublin and Tarifa – is Jennifer Kinnear, whose jewellery sea-shore designs reference urchins, coral, crab claws and shells.

Silver sea urchin necklace with crystal clear stone €125 at jenniferkinnear.shop.

6. SKIN DEEP

Multi-tasking body products are a godsend when it comes to travelling with kids. Cork-based, Human+Kind creates natural, vegan and cruelty-free skin soothers. Family Remedy Cream (100ml) €19.95 at humanandkind.com.

The M&A advisers of choice Global reach combined with deep local knowledge and expertise Eversheds Sutherland continues to be involved in the leading international and domestic M&A deals. Our status as adviser of choice for local and global M&A transactions is reinforced by our ranking as 2nd in Ireland by deal volume in the Mergermarket legal adviser league tables for 2018 and our nomination as M&A Legal Adviser of the Year at the Mergermarket Awards.

Adviser to Aquila Software on its acquisition of Financial Risk Solutions

Adviser to Busy Bees on its proposed acquisition of Giraffe Childcare

Adviser to Aerogen Group on the acquisition of a strategic shareholding by Temasek, a Singapore Government Sovereign Wealth Fund

Adviser to Kingspan Group plc on its investment in Invicara

Adviser to Arachas Corporate Brokers Ltd on several acquisitions in the Irish market

Adviser to the Musgrave Group on its acquisition of LaRousse Foods and Donnybrook Fair

Adviser to Pimco on the restructuring and sale of its interests in the Citywest Hotel

Adviser to the Sellers of the RILTA/ClearCircle Group on its sale to Enva

Adviser to the sellers of Blue Insurance Ltd on its sale to Cover-More, a member of the Zurich Group

Adviser to Euronet Worldwide Inc on its acquisition of Easycash

Adviser to CyrusOne on its acquisition of Zenium Data Centers

Adviser to Payzone Group on M&A transactions across Europe

For further information, please contact: Gerard Ryan Head of Corporate & Commercial +353 1 6644 202 gerardryan@eversheds-sutherland.ie

eversheds-sutherland.ie Š Eversheds Sutherland 2019. All rights reserved.

32

SHELF LIFE

NYPD by Mark Condren (Mark Condren Photography, €34.99) How does an Irishman – from Castletownroche, Co Cork – become the first photographer in history to get behind-the-scenes access to the New York Police Department?

Maybe because another Irishman immortalised them in song – “The boys from the NYPD choir/ Were singing Galway Bay” – or maybe because he’d proved himself with a previous photobook, The Guards: A Year Behind the Scenes with the Men and Women of An Garda Síochána (2011) and, as he writes in the foreword, his father, uncle and wife were/are all serving police officers in Ireland. Condren spent two years photographing the NYPD and here we see them on horseback, on parade, on patrol, investigating, arresting, handcuffing, clowning, on surveillance, all against the iconic backdrop of the city that never sleeps.

SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican salutes a photo study of the NYPD and picks literary reads, podcasts and events to savour.

NON - FICTION

PODCAST

CONSTELLATIONS by Sinéad Gleeson (Picador) “The body is an afterthought. Unless it’s involved in pleasure or pain, we pay this moving mass of vessel, bone and blood no mind.” A survivor of monoarticular arthritis, leukaemia and attendant complications, Gleeson – a renowned editor, critic and broadcaster – brings remarkable composure and lucidity to her debut book of essays: meditations on blood and pain are stand-out.

THE STINGING FLY magazine, published in Dublin, has been going since 1997, the Press since 2005 and the podcast since 2017. Extraordinary talentspotters, they have discovered Kevin Barry, Colin Barrett, Nicole Flattery, Wendy Erskine, to name a few, as well as publishing international authors Simon Armitage, AL Kennedy, CK Stead. Costa winner Sally Rooney, below, is currently the editor of the magazine and presenter of the podcast. Its unrivalled back catalogue dictates the format of the latter: a guest author is invited to select, read and discuss a piece from the Stinging Fly archives. Check out Kevin Barry on Cathy Sweeny, Rob Doyle on Philip Ó Ceallaigh and Emilie Pine on Julian Gough’s “How to edit your own lousy writing”.

FICTION

BEING VARIOUS: NEW IRISH SHORT STORIES edited by Lucy Caldwell (Faber, out May 2) The 24 writers featured here were either born, or now live, in Ireland and they’re all published since the Good Friday Agreement. Here’s a brilliant selection ranging from the very well-known – Kevin Barry, Eimear McBride, Sally Rooney – to new voices: Melatu Uche Okorie, Arja Kajermo, David Hayden.

© JOHNNY L DAVIES

T R AV E L

EPIC CONTINENT by Nicholas Jubber (John Murray, out May 16) The award-winning travel writer journeys from Iceland to Turkey on an adventure through Europe’s most iconic epic poems – The Odyssey, Chanson de Roland, Beowulf, Saga of Burnt Njal, Kosovo Cycle etc.

An original and insightful way of exploring contemporary issues around migration, population movement, borders, tribalism, sex, class and politics.

EVENT TWO LONG-RUNNING LITERARY FESTIVALS IN THE WEST OF IRELAND: CÚIRT 2019 (CUIRT.IE) TAKES OVER GALWAY CITY THIS APRIL 8-14, WITH INVITED AUTHORS INCLUDING JEANETTE WINTERSON, LEGENDARY TRAVEL WRITER DERVLA MURPHY AND MULTI AWARDWINNING US POET PATRICIA SMITH. THEN LISTOWEL WRITERS’ WEEK (WRITERSWEEK.IE) RUNS MAY 29 UNTIL JUNE 2, WITH WORKSHOPS, READING, PERFORMANCES, VISUAL ARTS AND GUESTS INCLUDING COLM TÓIBÍN, DOUGLAS KENNEDY, LEMN SISSAY AND MANY MORE.

34

CHECK IN

What can audiences expect from I See You? A powerful, female-led story, exploring the cyclical nature of female oppression and the ability to break through the darkness and into the light.

You will laugh. You will cry. You will learn about the forgotten Irish legend Lady Mary Heath and hopefully, in turn, learn a little about yourself too.

If you could fly anywhere tomorrow, where would it be to? Iceland. It’s on my list for the hot springs and to try to see the Northern Lights. It seems very magical.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK

Where in the world surprised you the most?

Manchester. It was somewhere I never gave a second thought to but when I was shooting Coronation Street there last year, I absolutely fell in love with the city and the people. You find the coolest bars, pubs, independent cafés, vegan-friendly restaurants and vintage shops in little nooks and crannies. It’s easy to get around by walking or on the tram, and there’s a slightly pre-gentrification New York feel from the place that really spoke to me.

Actor/playwright Amy De Bhrún has been in Vikings, Penny Dreadful and Coronation Street. She stars as the Irish aviator and Olympian Lady Mary Heath in the play I See You, which she also wrote. Heath was the first woman in Britain to hold a commercial pilot’s licence and broke world records in the 1920s. I See You runs at Dublin’s Fantasy travel The New Theatre on April 2-6 and at companions?

Oprah – we could have Belltable Limerick on April 26.

Best theatre city? London. I went to drama school there and lived there for almost nine years. It was my theatrical spiritual home at the beginning of my career, what with West End shows, the National Theatre – whose £15 Travelex tickets allow top quality shows to be accessible – and classic Fringe above traditional English pubs.

amazing conversations about our inner soul ... and she’d get us into all the best places.

Tina Fey – smart, funny.

Bruce Springsteen – for brilliant music.

Favourite hotel? Governors Camp Il Moran, Kenya. It was the first stop on our honeymoon and I never knew the safari experience could be so luxurious. It was the pure definition of glamping. And there’s nothing like going to sleep to the sound of hippos, baboons, lions … An absolutely magical experience that I would say is “once in a lifetime” – except we’re dying to go back.

What would be your three desert island boxsets? The US Office – a masterclass in comedy. Steve Carrell’s character Michael Scott could have so easily been a pantomime but he created this believable, well-rounded character, who you love and hate equally. Line of Duty – completely addictive, with so many twists and turns. The Good Wife – I came to this show pretty late and just inhaled every single episode.

I love watching an actor really take ownership of a character.

BUILD SOMETHING AMAZING TOGETHER Center Parcs Ireland is opening this summer in the beautiful surroundings of Longford Forest, with lots for the family to do, 365 days a year.

Whether it’s exploring the forest along the wooded paths, cycling the many trails and tracks, or making your own special den, you can build a togetherness that lasts beyond your family break. And the fun doesn’t stay outdoors - you’ll find many activities indoors, too, such as our fully covered Subtropical Swimming Paradise that’s heated to 29.5ºC all year round. Whatever the weather, there’s always something amazing for everyone.

To find out more and book, visit centerparcs.ie

Epic Family Time

36

WEEKENDER

WIN IN BERLIN Eoin Higgins revels in glam captivity at Hotel Zoo.

Y

omping across the springy rug (green and decorated in prints of leopards, rather than leopard print) to the front desk, we feel like we’ve crossed something of a threshold. Not quite voluntarily, we’d been traipsing around the rain-lashed streets of Berlin for what seemed like ages, trolley cases clattering along behind us, phone screens increasingly indecipherable as the precipitation came down with abandon.

We’d inadvertently booked our city break the same weekend that Berlin’s Gay Pride festival and an urban marathon were planned, meaning most of the straßen around our hotel were closed to traffic. Having had a taxi drop us off an fair

schlep from our accommodation, the trek now felt like it had been worth it.

Beside a cut-glass English-speaking receptionist, an enormous door (maybe six metres tall, four wide, its handle the size of a substantial leg) was flanked by two equally oversized mirrors. Elegant, yet captivatingly kooky, furniture further peppered the space. Voluminous scarlet drapes swooped hither and tither; an enormous, chainmail chandelier hung from a sculpted ceiling like a glitzy, and glittering ... jellyfish. Alice im Wunderland? Not quite, but we certainly weren’t in Kansas anymore.

The interior architecture at Hotel Zoo actually emanates from the sketchpads of LA power décor duo Dayna Lee and Ted Berner, whose Hollywood background in

art direction and set design has seen them collaborate with the likes of Jim Jarmusch, Ridley Scott and Paul T Anderson. The revamp of this 19th-century building is their first project in Berlin.

“Welcome to Hotel Zoo!” An efficient check-in sees us swiftly zooming our way toward our room. The outré vibe continues in the lift where a mural of paparazzi (with camera flashes that actually flash as the doors close) fills us with apprehension.

What will the room be like?

Our suite, thankfully, isn’t as brash, but the creative ambience is still apparent.

We agree that the bathroom is highly liveable: marble, grand wrought-iron windows and black lacquer flourishes.

The April Aromatics toiletries testify to timelessness and exoticism via subtle scents of jasmine and lavender. Lights dimmed, the bedroom proper, with its slate grey velvet accents, is comfortably moody, seductive even.

Duly freshened up we descend – papped once again – to the hotel’s Grace restaurant. Generously upholstered chairs sit around lavish tables set amongst leather, pewter, wrought iron and glossy objets and surfaces. The crowd is just as loud. We attract prolonged glances; unsure if they are a) disapproving, b) welcoming, or c) both.

Attentive and discreet service sees us rapidly tucking into a louche late supper of miniscule yet magnificent lobster tacos; a dozen briny oysters and a shared “Guanaja Shock”: chocolate mousse, Granny Smith apple and blueberries – it’s not quite as outrageous as the name promises but a stimulating sweet nonetheless.

After dinner drinks at Zoo’s Grace bar sees us sampling some local beers and a couple of cocktails. As is often the case, one cocktail is preferred by both parties. We order another pair. The air of decadence continues afoot. Locals loll and drape themselves about/around/on/and in some cases below, comfortable chairs that cosset designer-clad posteriors. We spy more chic Berliners hanging out in the hotel’s Winter Garden: an exterior, partially covered terrace where smokers flirt like their lives depend upon it, but for now we’re ensconced, happy to witness the wildlife from within.

Kurfürstendamm 25, +49 30 88 4370; designhotels.com

EXPERIENCE

AUTHENTIC IRISH HOSPITALIT Y Conrad Dublin provides a range of luxury services to ensure your meetings go as planned.

Host a conference in our elegant Conrad Ballroom, which can accommodate up to 350 attendees or be divided into three smaller rooms for more intimate gatherings. Our six fully flexible meeting rooms offer additional space from 12 to 50 delegates and are equipped with state of the art facilities, including free Wi-Fi throughout. Whichever venue you choose, our experienced event planners will work with you every step of the way, ensuring every detail exceeds your expectations.

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland | Phone +353-1-602 8900 | ConradDublin.com

CONRADDUBLIN.COM

#STAYINSPIRED

runway to road

1

2

3

Don’t forget to download the app when you land

4

5

6

Walking directions from Terminal 2 to our pick up point at Zone 18 car park 1

Walk through the glass tunnel at arrivals

4

Cross the road at the zebra crossing

2

Take a left after Zone 1-18 car park sign

5

Continue under the covered walkway

3

Go down one level via lift or escalator

6

Take the first right towards Zone 18 car park

Download Ireland’s No.1 Taxi App.

The

LIFE of REILLY

Actor Genevieve O’Reilly has been steadily crafting a career in theatre, TV and film, cutting her teeth in drama, comedy and green-screen blockbusters. This spring she brings her trademark elegance to Tolkien, a biopic of the Lord of the Rings writer.

WORDS LYNN ENRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS DAN KENNEDY

L

ongevity has always been a watchword for actor Genevieve O’Reilly. Even as she emerged onto the scene in Sydney, an ingénue in her early 20s discovering the thrills of show business, she was clear that she wanted to create and maintain a career that would go the distance. She was less preoccupied with fame and more concerned with quality.

“Longevity was my word when I was leaving drama school,” she says today, two decades on. “I was really interested in a career that could grow and shift with me.”

At 42 and with a CV that boasts internationally acclaimed theatre (The Ferryman), Hollywood blockbusters (Star Wars), comedy (Episodes) and prestige TV

(Tin Star), it’s fair to say that she’s on track to fulfil her ambition.

We meet in a central London restaurant, a spot popular with BBC journalists and PR executives. O’Reilly arrives five minutes late, having got caught in London traffic on her way from her home in Peckham.

It’s clear that she’s been rushing, yet she looks impeccable: poised and elegant.

She apologises profusely, unnecessarily, and her accent sounds like any other Dubliner’s. As she speaks, I listen out for an Australian twang or a hint of south London but it’s Irish through and through.

Her mother is her “mam” and her “T”s are soft. It’s pretty remarkable, considering that O’Reilly hasn’t lived in Dublin since she was ten years old.

The eldest of four children, she and her family lived in Raheny. “It was a very normal Irish childhood – school and road trips and going to visit relatives on my holidays” – until her parents decided to escape recession-hit Ireland. “They were very young with a young family and at the time in Ireland, in the 1980s, it was tough for them and they were so full of life and full of adventure,” she explains. They started a new life, near the beach in Adelaide – and that’s where they still are.

“Looking back at them making that move, I’m deeply proud of them, they were so brave.”

A young O’Reilly adjusted to life in Australia, enjoying a happy childhood alongside her brother and two sisters. She was, she says, always interested in acting.

“Maybe I was just desperate for attention,” she admits, “but I seemed to be interested in performance of some sort from the beginning.” After school, she moved to Sydney, a 15-hour drive away, and attended drama school. “It was three years of getting to play. I loved it,” she says.

She spent her 20s in Sydney, working with some of the most high-profile and respected theatre companies.

She met and married her husband, an Australian chiropractor – “we’ve been together since Jesus was a baby,” she laughs – and took on small TV roles, although she never turned up in Neighbours or Home and Away.

“I was never attractive enough for those shows,” she jests. “I used to have friends in Australia who would joke

“I knew that up until that point I had been really lucky. I was always aware that there are no rules, no rhyme in this career. It’s not a meritocracy” when I would go onto the beach, that they’d have to put sunglasses because I was so white. Oh, here comes the fluorescent one.”

She may be pale but to pretend that she’s not telegenic is ridiculous – her cheekbones are probably visible from space. You get the sense though that O’Reilly’s modesty isn’t put-on. Instead, it’s borne out of the reality of being an actor – a player in someone else’s vision; a performer who could, one day, find there are no more parts.

After almost a decade in Sydney, O’Reilly, along with her husband, moved to London. She bagged a role in a Trevor Nunn production of Richard II impressively quickly, but after that, things went quiet. “I was 29 or 30 and I had seen lots of friends go through it,” she reflects.

“I knew that up until that point I had been really lucky.

I was always aware that there are no rules, no rhyme in this career. It’s not a meritocracy.” She got a parttime job and tried to “keep cool and focused, reading a lot, keeping myself inspired”. It paid off and less than two years later, she was on stage at The Gate in

44

INTERVIEW

THE LIKES OF GENEVIEVE

THEATRE Tonight, I’m going see a play at the Bridge Theatre – Alys, Always. Joanne Froggatt is the lead and I think she’s just brilliant, so I want to go and watch her. When I’m in London, I try and see as much theatre as possible.

I saw Cyprus Avenue with Stephen Rea at the Royal Court recently – it was extraordinary. Disturbing but extraordinary.

Dublin, in a Garry Hynes production of Conor McPherson’s The Weir.

It was the job that “restored [her] confidence” and since then, she’s been steadily employed, combining theatre with film and TV work. She lives in south-east London with her husband and two young children, a boy and a girl, and the family dog, an energetic collie. It’s home. “For a lot of my life I felt like I had a third of my life in Ireland, a third of my life in Australia and a third of my life in London,” she says. “Now I’m getting older and London is where I am, permanently.”

Travel is inevitable as an actor, however, and she spent a lot of 2018 in New York with Jez Butterworth’s The Ferryman. Days after we meet, she’s heading to Australia to shoot a new film called The Dry with Eric Bana.

Combining career and kids, is, “a real juggle”, she says, but she makes up for time away by being very hands-on when she’s around. “I’ve been home for two months, just being mammy, walking them to school each morning, making their lunches, brushing their hair,” she says.

“And then I go away for a month and then I’ll be back.”

In London, she pursues a quiet life; she ventures into the West End to see theatre but

stays local if eating out or socialising.

“I stay home with my wee little family; we go to local restaurants in Deptford and Peckham. We’re quiet people,” she says, before cringing. “I’m a proper homebody, I’m so boring. The most exciting thing about me is the jobs I get to do and the characters I get to play.”

She’ll next be seen on screen in Tolkien, the biopic that explores the formative friendships of The Lord of the Rings author.

“Essentially it’s a film about friendship, a fellowship that carried him through his life,” she says. On reading the script, “I was deeply moved and I wanted to be a part of it”.

She knows that roles for women have traditionally dried up as actors enter middle age but she thinks things are changing.

“Audiences are so savvy and want to see women of different ages and different skin colour and different cultural heritage,” she says. The ageism that has plagued the industry is being challenged. “I’m lucky to be where I am as that is shifting,” O’Reilly adds.

“I still aim for longevity and quality.” Long may it continue.

Tolkien is released in Ireland and the UK on May 3.

CINEMA I tried to watch all the Oscarnominated films this year and I loved Roma. The cinematography! That scene, on the beach, at the end! I loved it. And I loved all the performances in The Favourite. Olivia Colman, Rachel Weisz and Emma Stone did such beautiful, brave, detailed work.

BINGE WATCHING I’ve just finished watching Dirty John on Netflix.

Oh my God. It’s Eric Bana, who I am just about to go and do a film with, and Connie Britton, who I’ve always loved watching. She falls in love with a man who is a complete psychopath and she doesn’t know that he is. It’s deeply suspenseful, properly gripping, hands-over-theeyes, no-don’t-do-it stuff.

It’s eight episodes and really addictive.

COVER: RUST SATIN TOP AND RUST TROUSERS BOTH HUGO BOSS. CONTENTS PAGE: WHITE UTILITY JUMPSUIT BY MASSIMO DUTTI. OPENING SPREAD RUST SATIN ENSEMBLE, AS BEFORE. PREVIOUS PAGE CAMEL SUIT BY ZARA. THIS PAGE RUST SATIN ENSEMBLE, AS BEFORE. STYLED BY BRIAN CONWAY, MAKEUP BY NICKI BUGLEWICZ, HAIR BY CHLÓE SANDOZ. CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE CURTAIN HOTEL, EAST LONDON.

READING I usually have about four books on the go. At the moment I’m reading Patti Smith’s Just Kids. She writes so beautifully. When I was in New York I went to see her perform and I bought the book after that.

Superior Craftsmanship - Since 1934 Jewellery . Giftware . Dining www.newbridgesilverware.com

46

PEOPLE

RHYTHM NATION Irish dancing is synonymous with jigs and wigs – but Irish dance is so much more. Traversing contemporary, street and moving image, the art form is in rude health.

WORDS CHRISTIE SEAVER PHOTOGRAPHS LUCA TRUFFARELLI

T

raditional music and famous writers may spark visions of Ireland’s culture, yet while bodhrans beat and pages turn across the island, another part of its heritage thrives: dance.

Irish dance made its indelible mark during the now infamous 1994 Eurovision Song Contest, when the interval act Riverdance first took the world by storm. But who knew an Irish choreographer would work at the Bolshoi Theatre, or that every summer aerial dance artists from around the world

T H E I N ST R U M EN T

INGRID NACHSTERN

Ingrid Nachstern – the innovative art director of her own Night Star Dance Company – uses the camera to get her message across like an ambassador between the Irish dance scene and the cinema world. After clocking many years onstage and running her own ballet school, she most recently directed, choreographed and danced in the short film Shoe Horn/Office,

would flock to a corner of Donegal?

Ireland’s dance scene has long been caught between that of its neighbour to the west and its mainland-European counterparts. But with the ingenuity of artists, innovative programming and the Dublin Dance Festival (DFF) – this year running May 1-19; dublindancefestival.ie – Irish dance truly has gone global. It offers something for anyone willing to put on their dancing shoes – or to buy a ticket. Here we meet some of the scene’s most exciting (and literal) movers and shakers.

which won Best Experimental Film at the 2019 Los Angeles Movie Awards.

“The idea came from reading about Brock Turner, a Stanford graduate who was sentenced to six months in prison for allegedly raping a comatose girl on campus,” Nachstern says. “The words of his father struck me when he said he felt the sentence to be a bit harsh ‘for 20 minutes of action’. I also read about Nicola Thorp being fired from her job for wearing flat shoes. She subsequently took a court case against

her employers and won. This got me thinking about restrictive clothing for women including corsets, super-high heels and the practice of Chinese foot binding. I use all of this in Shoe Horn/ Office.”

Where do you find inspiration?

Sitting in the back of yellow cabs in New York as their small TVs are playing.

Travel essentials? A good novel. And if I am new to a place, I will eat in the same place each day.

PEOPLE

47

48

PEOPLE

T H E I CO N

COLIN DUNNE

If one person were to embody dance in Ireland, it just might be Colin Dunne who, with his Riverdance partner Jean Butler, was catapulted to fame 25 years ago. These days Dunne hits the floor in unexpected collaborations, such as his latest with powerhouse Belgian dancer and choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui. Their duet, Session, showing May 10-11 at DFF, draws on their combined backgrounds of Irish dancing, martial arts, hip hop and Indian kathak. “The period after just finishing a new piece can be the most fertile really, as you’re still processing the things that you didn’t get to follow through on,” Dunne says. “Finding the energy and the funding to realise those ideas though is a different matter …” But there’s no stopping Dunne, whose work will appear later this year at the Baryshnikov Arts Center in New York (bacnyc.org), drawing him back to a city where he lived in 2000. “It’s a crazy and lovable place. It definitely changed me. In the end though, I couldn’t keep up with its pace and came back. But I still love to visit. There’s a slight bounce in my step when I’m there and it all feels very familiar.”

What re-charges you? After I’ve been on the road, arriving at my place in Ireland and closing the door for some solitude.

That, and a full Irish breakfast.

Travel essentials? A little yoga in the morning and some red wine at night.

THE GIRL NEXT DOOR

MARGUERITE DONLON

“Nearly everyone has heard of the Bolshoi Ballet and lots of people know of the superstar prima ballerina Svetlana Zakharova,” says choreographer Marguerite Donlon. “The fact that Svetlana chose one of my pieces to perform gave those who don’t know too much about dance a perspective of my work.” Donlon’s rise through the dance world has been extraordinary. From her first ballet lessons as a teen in Co Longford to her recent work with Zakharova, Donlon has worked with some of the best choreographers in Europe, and now she’s become one of them. Her dances are sought after worldwide, including at the Dance Salad Festival in Houston,

Texas this April 18-20. Throughout her career dancing with English National Ballet, directing the Saarland State Theatre in Germany and launching her own project Donlon Dance Collective, she has maintained a penchant for Irish banter and a quick wit that informs her own creations. Currently based in Berlin – but recently appointed director of Theater Hagen – Donlon still finds time to help cultivate young talent and will participate in Limerick’s Step Up Dance Programme from June until August (dancelimerick.ie), showing it takes more than Irish luck to get their movement onto the stage.

What inspires you? Love inspires me, always.

Travel essentials? Long Skype calls.

Free

Museum

Factory

Lifestyle

Café

Visit our free museum housing a memorable collection of couture design, artefacts and fashion items that once belonged to some of the greatest style icons of modern times including Audrey Hepburn, Princess Diana, Marilyn Monroe & many others.

Immerse yourself in Hollywood glamour.

Take a guided tour of the working factory floor and meet the people behind the traditional craft practiced at Newbridge Silverware since 1934. Learn about the time honoured processes and truelife stories at the heart of one of Ireland’s most well-known and treasured brands.

Browse through the complete range of much loved Irish designed products in our stylish showroom. Here you will find all of the collections on offer from our jewellery and giftware to homeware and tableware. Tax free shopping for eligible customers from outside of the EU.

The award winning Café Carleton features freshly prepared local food with vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or a sumptuous afternoon tea in a relaxed, stylish and friendly ambience.

Live piano music Monday to Friday mornings.

OF STYLE ICONS

TOUR

Newbridge Silverware, Newbridge, Co. Kildare, Ireland.

Only 40 minutes from Dublin. Junction 10/12 on the M7. Open 7 days a week.

Free coach and car parking. Groups welcome. Online booking available.

STORE

CARLETON

Visitor Centre www.visitnewbridgesilverware.com

50

PEOPLE

THE INCARNATION

OONA DOHERTY

T H E H I G H FLY ER S

JYM DARLING & CHANTAL McCORMICK For the directors of aerial dance company Fidget Feet, a day’s work might involve a 20-metre freefall, or hanging from the side of a tall building. “As a young child I was terrified of heights and I couldn’t watch flying trapeze acts,” says McCormick. “Aerial was not in my mind until I started to do stilt walking in night clubs in college.” Fidget Feet performs its latest show Hatch throughout Ireland in April and May, and the Irish Aerial Dance Festival, now in its tenth year, sends sky-soaring, silk-hanging performers up to 50 metres high in the Co Donegal skies, from June 22 until July 7 in Letterkenny (irishaerialdancefest.com). Despite so much time spent in the air, Darling still has the occasional epiphany. “Once we were doing a programme in Hanover on a 260ft [80-metre] building and suddenly my head knocked off the glass. I’d fallen asleep, very quickly – like the nodding off you do in a car when you have to pull off and get a coffee. I was so shocked because I wasn’t tired. Even though it only lasted a few seconds it was the same kind of self-preservation of the brain that happens sometimes, saying, ‘You really shouldn’t be hanging off this building ...’”

What inspires you? JD: I remember finding a Joker card in the gutter once and it sent my mind into all kinds of wild pathways.

Wellness-routine essentials? CM: Even five minutes of meditation helps me; then laughing and knowing I’m not in control of anything.

Dancer/choreographer Oona Doherty embodies so much emotion through her movement that a single leg kick and head turn can electrify the surrounding space. Her no-nonsense, powerful style has earned numerous awards and a deep respect from audiences and dancers with whom she collaborates in Ireland and abroad. After killing it in Enda Walsh’s play Arlington, she’s performing in John Scott’s Inventions at DFF from May 17-18, before heading across Europe with her own choreography including Hard to be Soft – A Belfast Prayer. This dance pays homage to her native city and the complexity it represents.

Despite the intensity of her subjects, the soul-searching, soulful performer remains determined to connect with those around her. “Night by night the audience reaction can be completely different. It depends on the mood of the night, the day the audience had before they came in to the theatre and the kind of performance you’re having that evening.” And how does she choose her collaborators?

“So far I choose my friends because I trust them and I love them.”

What inspires you? At the moment films like Holy Mountain, The Source Family, Wild Wild Country. These days holistic philosophy, hip hop and Funkadelic album covers are what I’m grooving on.

Travel essentials? My yoga mat, my essential oil burner and the same breakfast no matter what country I’m in – espresso and pain au chocolat.

Watching repeats of Graham Norton.

52

PEOPLE

T H E CO O L G U Y

TOBI OMOTESO Whether he’s dancing in a park, nightclub or music festival, hip hop and break dancer Tobi Omoteso locks, pops and DJs his way from city to city. And like the Pied Piper, people follow. His laidback, approachable style helped him launch the Top 8 Street Dance Battle (coming to DFF on May 5), which provides a showcase for up-and-coming talent. “I’m a big kid at heart myself and have a passion for working with youth,” Omoteso says, “particularly the ones that are a bit hesitant to try things, especially dance, in case

it breaks their coolness ...” Omoteso says his parents were slow to warm to his chosen career but eventually his enthusiasm became infectious. “When I put on the music and start busting out my impressive and flashy moves, you see people’s eyes light up and they can’t help but approach me and ask me to teach them.” Now he counts his four-year-old daughter as his biggest fan.

Where do you find inspiration? Happiness, sadness and sorrow in daily life. Inspiration is around us and I make sure I am ready to see it.

Travel essentials? A change of socks as I sweat a lot!

Discover our collection of stylish, boutique hotels in the heart of Dublin city centre and our brand new hotel “The Mont� opening in July 2019.

RISING FROM THE ASHES

Limerick City is ready to see you now. Untouched and authentic, it’s glowing in all the right places, including culturally and culinarily.

WORDS CONOR CREIGHTON PHOTOGRAPHS TRISTAN HUTCHINSON

56

LIMERICK

A

sham is something that it’s not purported to be. A sham in Limerick is your pal, your friend, the dude making you a coffee with a heart shape in the foam. The city is not what it’s purported to be either. The rest of the island – shame on us – is guilty of not always giving it a fair chance. Maybe we forgot that Angela’s Ashes is actually an historic novel?

The result is that Limerick hasn’t developed to serve tourists with the industrial efficiency of Cork, Galway or Kilkenny. But therein, dear reader, lies the beauty of visiting this city. Limerick is as untouched, authentic and as weird a place as you will find in Ireland. And these days it’s buzzing. From restaurants, to architectural developments, to a nascent hip hop scene the envy of the rest of

Limerick is as untouched, authentic and as weird a place as you will find in Ireland

Ireland, Limerick is really glowing.

It’s a very walkable city. From St John’s Castle on the Island, to the Hanging Gardens on Henry Street, to the Georgian quarter where there’s one of the most beautiful pubs in Ireland, South’s, the place feels highly navigable. If you do get lost, you can orient yourself to the sound of the buskers who, despite the change in the city’s fortunes, insist upon singing laments and Johnny Cash covers.

One of the first things you notice when you arrive is the Milk Market (milkmarketlimerick.ie). A large square protected by a giant weather-proof cowl, the market is, to describe it as a local might, “unreal”. At the weekends, when traders from all over Munster fill the space, it’s an incredible way to spend a morning, eating on the hoof and buying mucky vegetables.

Squeeze in box players, baristas, big men in red rugby shirts, Travellers selling hand tools, little women in lambswool and the odd East Clare hippie wearing shorts in the middle of winter because the cold is just in your head, pal.

Grow with us.

Engineer your career.

We started as a family business in 1890.

We are now the leading mechanical, electrical and fire protection contractor operating throughout Ireland, United Kingdom, Europe and the Middle East. To this day we have continued to priortise education, training and innovation. Get in touch and grow your career with us.

Mechanical | Electrical | Fire Protection

joneseng.com/careers

58

Beside the Milk Market, in a small stone building, is the vintage clothes store The Edge, where everything looks sourced from the 1980s yet is priced like the 1990s.

While you’re walking through the city, you might be impressed by how much good street art there is on the walls. It wasn’t always this way. Catherine O’Halloran began the Draw Out urban art festival in 2013 and continues to select derelict sites around the city, inviting graffiti artists from Ireland and abroad to give the place a facelift. “I think it’s important to utilise the therapeutic benefits of creativity to expand our understanding of ourselves and build a sense of pride in what we come from,” she says.

There is a sense that Limerick is a DIY city. A place where artists and young people spend their time not adding to, but creating from scratch. The UnderDog (theunderdog.ie) on Thomas (the “h” is pronounced like you’re making a point) Street is a plant-based restaurant ahead of its time. With the slogan: “Sit. Eat. Heal”, owner Kevin Kiely has gone out on a limb with an experience more suited to Los Angeles than Limerick. “I wanted to create a space where a certain kind of people

LIMERICK

Opening pages, left, Catherine O’Halloran, founder of the Draw Out urban art festival; right, graphic, novel street art. Previous page, top, People’s Park’s Munster-red Richard Russell fountain, and below, horses for courses at Hunt Museum. Clockwise from above left, healthy and well-dressed at the Green Onion Café; the doors of exception; urban art attack; cabaret chanteuse Laura LaVelle.

will find their home,” he says. On Tuesday and Thursday mornings, the UnderDog hosts a city jog. Midweek, it screens movies. You can come and do yoga here; you can meditate; you can meet likeminded people. The place feels safe and, as you watch customers, some reading, someone sketching in a notebook, boys in makeup and girls with none, you realise his restaurant is also a haven for those who might have nowhere else to go in this city.

One place that needs no promotion is Mortell’s Deli (mortellcatering.com), the oldest deli in Ireland. Brian Mortell assures me there are people in Dubai and New York who call him on the phone to reserve coleslaw before they take their flights home. The deli has no freezer and

60

LIMERICK

Choice Music Prize in 2016 for their album Let the Dead, Bury the Dead. Or Hazey Haze, the most exciting rapper in the country at the moment. His voice can sound like a Honda Civic with a rust hole through the exhaust – that’s high praise, Hazey. And if your knowledge of the local music scene begins with Zombie and ends with Horse Outside, then you should pay a visit to the two best music venues in town: Dolans Warehouse (dolans.ie) and Sarsfield Street’s Pharmacia.

Some people call the city the New Jersey of Ireland. There are tans in winter, more blondes than Stockholm and, if the boys are wearing white tennis socks, you can bet your life they’re brighter than alabaster. But if you want glamour of a different age, then the monthly Limerick Cabaret night is a sight to behold. The event brings together local comedians, MCs, performers, dancers and burlesque.

Now, if you were to join me in my time machine and travel back to the 1970s, Limerick was the most pious city in the country. Some folks called it the City of Churches. There are so many spires shooting up from the ground that the skyline looks like a pin cushion. How does striptease sit with the saintly? “I’m only shaking what He gave me,” says Laura LaVelle, the cabaret’s founder and star.

Limerick is one of a kind. It’s familiar and foreign at the same time. Walking around can feel surreal, or cause you

Some people call the city the New Jersey of Ireland.

There are tans in winter, more blondes than Stockholm what doesn’t get eaten today will find itself in a pie, or a loaf of bread, tomorrow.

At Mortell’s they call that type of bread “dlo” loaf. Cute, until you realise that’s backward speech for “old”.

Speech in Limerick is as present and varied as the rain, and one of the most interesting things to do is eavesdrop.

The way folks speak – the delay on certain vowels and their use of ancient Hibernicisms such as gowl, feen, mank and langers – betrays a cultural impermeability the rest of the country could only dream of. You can follow that language into the local hip hop scene with artists such as the Rusangano Family, who won the

to believe in a multiverse. Cut off by reputation from the rest of the country, the city has done its own thing, developing into one of the most vibrant, distinct and charming places in Ireland. What’s Limerick charm, I ask LaVelle? “Well that’s easy: we’re nice to you but don’t mess with us, okay?”

Cara would like to thank AVIS for their assistance. For the very best car rental deals, visit CARS.AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

9-12 Dawson Street

Bolands Quay

Apollo House

Rathbourne

Project Waterfront

Our services: Consultancy Sales Development Management Planning Debt Advisory

We see a land of

opportunity.

Savills Development Land Team – – – –

Savills has the largest dedicated Development Land Team in Ireland Sold and advised on over ¤1 Billion of land related assets in 2018 Savills acted on the Top 5 land transactions of 2018 in Ireland Full range of services across all sectors

Call the experts Mark Reynolds

Andrew Sherry

Divisional Director andrew.sherry@savills.ie

Associate, Planning raymond.tutty@savills.ie

John Swarbrigg

Peter O’Meara

Ebba Mowat

Director mark.reynolds@savills.ie

Divisional Director john.swarbrigg@savills.ie

Director peter.omeara@savills.ie

Dublin +353 (0) 1 618 1300 | Cork +353 (0) 21 427 1371 | savills.ie

Raymond Tutty

Associate ebba.mowat@savills.ie

62

LIMERICK

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS EAT OLD SCHOOL There are seven Costas in Limerick. You can do better. The Green Onion Café, opposite the excellent Hunt Museum, was the first café to serve a cappuccino in Limerick. Destroyed by the recession, it recently rose from the ashes on Rutland Street, serving coffee from the Anam roastery up the road in the Burren.

(3 Rutland Street, 061 311 889) GLAM With a decor that makes you think of a mob-affiliated restaurant on Miami Beach in 1971, the Grill Room is to bling what the Shannon is to Irish rivers.

Red leather, crushed gold, velvet out the wazzoo, and a lifetime of Brasso invested in every shiny surface. Aside from the food menu, there’s a gin menu and a wine list that includes more than 300 bottles. At

STAY weekends, a crooner with a silver mic stand serenades the guests who, because it’s Limerick, are dressed up like they’re going to the last wedding on Earth. (109 O’Connell Street, 061 516 450; alexfindlaterandco.ie) LOCAL So close to the Shannon you can actually hear it, the Curragower is a much-loved restaurant in these parts.

With “curragh” meaning crossing and “gower” meaning goat, the restaurant takes its name from the Curragower Falls on the Shannon. This eaterie is situated in Limerick’s Medieval district and the food is appropriately retro: black pudding, club salads, scampi. People have been known to drive across from Dublin just for the chowder. (Clancy’s Strand, 061 321 788; curragower.com)

CITY CENTRAL Limerick City’s only five-star, The Savoy offers a complete experience, including a great cocktail bar and restaurant, Hamptons Grill. The views from the roof are the best you’ll get, especially if you’re lucky enough to catch Limerick when it’s wearing a Californian sunset. Rooms from €114. (22 Henry Street, 061 448 700; savoylimerick.com) BUDGET BOUTIQUE The George is a stylish hotel that punches above its four stars. The decor is modern and the Italian restaurant at the top of the escalator is considered by many to serve the best Italian food in Limerick. Not to be beaten by the Savoy, the views from the seventh floor are swell. Rooms from €67. (Shannon Street, 061 460 400; georgelimerick.com) LORD OF THE MANOR Quite possibly the best hotel in Ireland, Adare Manor is not in Limerick city but about ten minutes down the road. The hotel is situated on 340 hectares of manicured land. The neoGothic building appears like something out of Pride and Prejudice. Activities at the hotel, apart from revelling in your luck that you’re managing to stay there, include a spa, archery courses and golf among other things. Rooms from €400. (Adare, Co Limerick, 061 605 200; adaremanor.com)

SURPRISE OLD SMOKY Cahill’s is the oldest shop in Limerick City and the oldest tobacconist in Ireland. The shop has diversified in recent years, to reflect the public’s attitude towards dying prematurely and now stocks more than 100 types of tea and numerous vintage grooming products.

(47 Wickham Street, 061 311 821)

Previous page, top, bestselling author Joseph O’Connor whose professorship at University of Limerick is testament to the city’s creative tenor; below, vintage finds at The Edge.

This page, vegan spag at The UnderDog.

AMATEUR HOUR If your stay in Limerick extends to Monday evening and you’re curious to see if Limerick’s got talent, then go along to Costelloe’s Milk Market Bar for Hosties Open Mic Mondays. The night is hosted by MC Noton (that’s Limerickese for “nothing”) and you’d do well to call the bar Costies rather than its official name.

(64 Mungret Street)

ATTENTION

In Ireland Drive on left

64

ADVERTORIAL

H

eading up the IT procurement business for Arkphire, one of Ireland’s longest established IT solutions companies, Bríd Graham, above right, has first-hand experience of working closely with leading international companies, supporting them on their global expansion path.

Arkphire provides a full range of outsourced technology solutions, from the desktop to the data centre, each focused on delivering successful business outcomes for their customers.

According to Graham, a big part of their success can be attributed to helping multinational companies such as HubSpot, Indeed and WeWork set up their operations in Europe, taking care of their IT requirements as they embark on expansion plans and invest in transformative technology.

“At the core of Arkphire’s proposition is our approach to doing business that’s built around the pillars of trust, strong partnerships and putting the customer first,” says Graham.

Being there for companies as they initially establish their European operations, has subsequently catapulted Arkphire on to the international stage.

Supporting transatlantic expansion According to Graham, “almost every company with ambition wants to become faster, more efficient and extend their reach.

Our process is to engage with customers, to understand their plans for their business, their employees and their own clients. It’s about understanding where they can improve their employee and customer experience. It’s about driving efficiency and productivity within their business.”

WHAT ARKPHIRE’S CUSTOMERS SAY

GOING GLOBAL WITH A GUIDING HAND Arkphire’s Bríd Graham and Sarah Holmes share their views on the value that a trusted IT partner can play in supporting businesses on their international expansion journey.

Arkphire’s Sarah Holmes, above left, international business development executive, agrees, adding: “Our business model is built around a ‘Follow the Customer’ approach, as our customer base of multinational companies continues to expand its global footprint into other overseas markets, building out their IT supply chain, distribution and services offerings. Our strategy is to continue to grow up and grow out with our customers as they seek to replicate the same innovative IT infrastructure, solutions and interfacing equipment for their teams globally.”

To learn more about how Arkphire can support your international business expansion plans, contact: T: +353 1 2075778 | W: arkphire.com

“Arkphire is my preferred global IT procurement partner.

Fifteen years ago, when leading the IT procurement business for Google and setting up their HQ in Dublin, I met Arkphire. I have since moved on and worked with a number of global companies including Facebook and Dropbox, and I always bring in Arkphire to source and manage our corporate IT, data centre and networking requirements.”

MICHELE SORDAL INDEPENDENT GLOBAL PROCUREMENT CONSULTANT

“In a supplier I look for the ability to deliver on time, really great communication, being able to deliver what I want when I need it, and also be able to step in whenever I need help. I see the relationship with Arkphire developing as we grow, to be our partner for the entire length of our journey.”

AARON SMITH GLOBAL DIRECTOR OF IT HUBSPOT

“We buy all of our IT hardware from Arkphire. One of the major draws of using Arkphire is how quickly they are able to support businesses when needed. At WeWork, we can have many different people using our services every day, so ensuring that these services are always available and adaptive is essential.”

JAMES ALLEN CORPORATE SERVICES TECHNICIAN WEWORK

Arkphire is a leading IT solutions company with operations in Dublin, London, São Paulo, Singapore, Tel Aviv and Tokyo. Arkphire delivers IT procurement solutions to more than 90 countries.

Its customers include large multinationals and leading companies within a wide range of industries, covering finance, healthcare, social media, telecommunications and utilities.

Arkphire has an unrivalled network of partnership accreditations with leading global IT vendors and is a Dell EMC Titanium, HP Platinum, Lenovo Platinum, Microsoft Gold and Cisco Gold Partner and the only Authorised Apple Enterprise Reseller (AAER) headquartered in Ireland.

66

NORTH FORK

NORTH STAR Forget the Hamptons – the charm of Long Island’s North Fork is less about celebs and all about embracing its seaside, agricultural roots.

WORDS AMY ZAVATTO PHOTOGRAPHS JAKE RAJS

NORTH FORK

68

I

sit at a sun-washed picnic table overlooking Dering Harbor, where the ferries to Shelter Island glide to and fro across the water. In my gloved right hand, I grip an oyster-shucking knife, ready to liberate from their grey, craggy shells the dozen Hogs Necks on ice in front of me.

“See that little notch at the tip right there?” says my server and guide at Greenport’s shuck-your-own Little Creek Oysters (littlecreekoysters.com). “Just wiggle your blade in, nice and easy.”

I place the bivalve in a wooden oyster jack – a simple, wooden device for the shuckingshy that holds an oyster in place – and do as instructed, aiming the rounded tip of my blade at the hinge on the skinny side

NORTH FORK

of the shellfish before me. I give it a little shimmy and, pop, the top loosens from its clamped state and I feel like I’ve just discovered a new country. An awkward but quick swipe of the knife separates the muscle from the white, inner shell and, slurp, it goes down simultaneously sweet and briny and all the more delicious because I managed it myself.

This is the sea-sprayed, sandy charm of eastern Long Island’s North Fork, a narrow, 37-kilometre strip of land with a string of sleepy, small towns bearing the names of its Corchaug American Indian and English Colonial roots – Jamesport, Aquebogue, Cutchogue, Southold, Greenport, Orient. But instead of trying to out-glam the famed Hamptons to the

I give the oyster a little shimmy and, pop, the top loosens from its clamped state and I feel like I’ve just discovered a new country

south, this quiet peninsula, 130 kilometres east of Midtown Manhattan, with the Long Island Sound on one side and the Peconic and Gardiners Bays on the other, thoroughly embraces its fishing, farming and foraging roots – and often lets you in on the experience. Teach a woman to fish (or shuck or paddle board or feed a goat) and ... well, you know.

With a belly full of local oysters, I glide off on a bike from Dan’s Bike Rental (greenportbikerental.com), an outfit that will drop one off to your hotel or even your stop on the Long Island Rail Road or Hampton Jitney bus. I’m inspired to pedal over to 67 Steps Beach (66 Sound Road), named after the wooden staircase that leads you from a small car-park down to the boulder-dotted shore, for a walk on the wind-worn stones and shells that feel akin to stepping through the contents of a treasure chest. I take off my shoes and wade into the cool, clear salty water of the Long Island Sound; in the distance, Connecticut appears only as a thin

The most experienced people make all the difference.

Congratulations to all our recent promotees.

Dublin +353 (0) 1 618 1300 | Cork +353 (0) 21 427 1371 Belfast +44 (0) 28 9026 7820 | savills.ie

70

Opening pages, combing 67 Steps Beach.

Previous page, the charmingly monikored Love Lane, in Mattituck. Clockwise from above, the family-run Kontokosta Winery in Greenport invites vinophiles to sample its wares in a light-fuelled tasting room, from rosĂŠ to Riesling; sample sips at Macari Wines, the estate of which has been comandeered by the Macari dynasty for more than half a century; another family-run business, 8 Hands Farm is a sustainable operation that lets chickens and sheep run riot across free-range pastures.

NORTH FORK

NORTH FORK

*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

indigo line far, far away, and I yearn to get more than my feet wet.

With a little instruction from Chris Dowling, paddle-board pro and co-owner with his wife, Blake, of the local surf and clothing boutique, One Love Beach (onelovebeach.com), and a $40 board rental fee ($60 if you want to come early for a lesson beforehand), I and a small group of shore-curious explorers head out for a stand-up paddle-boarding tour through the marshy inlet wetlands around Richmond Creek in Southold. Here I spy egrets, terns and osprey above and, in the clear water below, blue claw and horseshoe crabs, schools of quick-moving minnows and even a few turtles.

Hungry from the biking and paddling, I make a pit stop at The North Fork Shack (thenorthforkshack.com) in Southold for a bowl of creamy, fortifying chowder chock-a-block with locally harvested clams and an SLT sandwich (shiitake, lettuce, tomato – the dehydrated mushrooms are a dead-ringer for bacon and can make even the most meat-devoted a veggie convert), and then bike a few minutes down the road to meet the sweet, friendly goats at Catapano Dairy Farm (catapanodairyfarm. com), who stick their downy noses through the fence in greeting. Inside the tiny gift shop, I can’t resist the options of goats’ milk products: little tubs of fresh chevre, homemade soaps and soft, velvety fudge that’s so damn good, I can’t help eating it on my way out the door.

Ample fields of the island’s staple crops of potatoes, cauliflower, lima beans, broccoli, and asparagus stretch

Fly return to NEW YORK JFK for 40,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*

71

far and wide on the broad, flat tracts of well-tilled land that you will begin to see as soon as you get off the Long Island Expressway. But about 50 years ago another agricultural boon took root in the fertile, loamy-sandy soil here, when the first vitis vinifera vines were planted.

Today, vineyards account for more than 1,200 trellised hectares on the North Fork, where the vines soak up the sun and seaside air.

I know a trek to the North Fork is not complete without sipping its famed fermented juice. There are dozens of wineries with tasting rooms from which to choose but I settle on a few strategic stops.

The first, Kontokosta (kontokostawinery. com), for a glass of their estate-grown cabernet franc, which I take on a stroll down to the edge of their 25-hectare property and stand sipping on a bluff overlooking the white-capped, wind-swept Long Island Sound. My second stop takes me to the funky chicken-coop-turnedtasting room of The Old Field Vineyards (theoldfield.com), where I can’t resist picking up a bottle of their fresh and zippy chardonnay and the pricier but keepsake worthy Commodore Perry, made entirely from merlot, the grape most widely grown on Long Island. My final stop is the Mattituck tasting room of family-run Macari Wines (macariwines.com), where I get to sample some older vintages of their biodynamically skewed wines and nibble on charcuterie made from their farm-raised pigs and cattle that roam a portion of the family’s estate.

But while the vineyards add a little

72

NORTH FORK

Clockwise from top, the sprawling Macari Wines estate; fish-focused fare at Noah’s; raise a sundowner at The Halyard overlooking the Sound.

glass-swirling sophistication to the area, the recently created Hallock State Park Preserve (parks.ny.gov) in Jamesport gives a stunning glimpse of the region’s farming roots, which were part of the Corchaug Indian tradition, as well as that of the first Puritan colonists who landed in Southold in 1640. “It’s our mission here to reconnect the connection of our shared agricultural heritage,” offers Herb Strobel, executive director of the Hallockville Farm Museum (hallockville.com), which works in tandem with the public park and offers a well-preserved glimpse into the 300-year history of Long Island farmland and its dwellings. “People don’t realise that most of Long Island used to be like this.” Here, visitors can hike along serene forest trails or head to the beach to comb for ancient arrowheads and smooth beach glass.

Dinner at the North Fork Table & Inn (northforktableandinn.com) proves to be a lesson in utter farm-to-table sincerity, as chef Stephan Bogardus keeps close relationships with a multitude of farmers and fishers within steps of his kitchen, and even hunts himself during the autumn for duck and deer. The six-course tasting menu feels like a map of my day, with dishes such as Bogardus’ cardamomkissed razor clams fresh from the shore and the smoke-spiked lamb and aubergine vindaloo, sourced from nearby 8 Hands Farm (8handsfarm.com).

About two kilometres down the road, on a quiet stretch where only the occasional hum of a car engine interrupts the sounds of chirping crickets and tree frogs in the darkness, I decide to end my day looking up instead of down. On Saturday nights, Southold’s Custer Observatory (custerobservatory.org) opens its doors to the public to view the northeastern night sky through a powerful Zerochromat refractor telescope. I spy Saturn and Mercury, and clusters and clusters of stars that seem at once as ancient as they do bright and new – a just-right reflection of the North Fork’s serene bounty and beauty.

TITANIC THE LEGEND THE STORY EXPLORE THE SIGHTS, SOUNDS AND STORIES OF RMS TITANIC AT THIS WORLD LEADING VISITOR ATTRACTION IN THE CITY WHERE IT ALL BEGAN, BELFAST, NORTHERN IRELAND.

BOOK NOW AT TITANICBELFAST.COM

Experience the Artistry of the World of Westeros OFFICIAL EXHIBITION OF THE HIT HBO SERIES

11 APR – 1 SEP 2019, TEC BELFAST BOOK NOW GAMEOFTHRONESEXHIBITION.CO.UK ©2019 Home Box Office, Inc. All Rights Reserved. HBO and related trademarks are the property of Home Box Office, Inc.

74

NORTH FORK

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS EAT RISE & SHINE At Bruce & Son, chef Scott Bollman lets his passion for local sourcing drive this brunch-centric spot in Greenport, where standout dishes will completely change your view of this standard morning fare. Tip: a great souvenir is Bollman’s sea salt that he sources from the waters of the Sound.

(208 Main Street, Greenport, +1 631 477 0023; bruceandsongreenport.com) FRESH CATCH You will find no fresher swimmy creatures around than at Southold Fish Market. Step up to the counter and order a plump lobster roll, overflowing with the sweet, juicy crustacean’s meat, or the succulent, crabstuffed flounder, and nab a seat inside or at one of the breezy outdoor picnic tables.

(64755 NY-25, Southold, +1 631 765 3200) FINE FINS Be sure to call ahead for a seat at Noah’s, for seasonal and fish-focused fare served in the serenity of chef Noah Schwartz’s airy, sea-green dining room on bustling Front Street. The wine list, curated by Schwartz’s wife and sommelier partner, Sunita, leans toward a tenet of what-grows-together, goes-together, so expect lots of local options to try.

(136 Front Street, Greenport, +1 631 477 6720; chefnoahs.com)

SMART TIP

STAY PEACE AND QUIET It’s all about the view at the Aqua Hotel, where 18 lightfilled rooms, thoughtfully decorated with mid-century modern restraint, have floorto-ceiling windows aimed at the gently lapping waves of the Peconic Bay. There’s a St Tropez-meets-mellow-east-end feel to the half-hectare property, which also boasts a private beach, bocce court and nap-worthy hammocks. Rooms from $149.

(15 Bay Avenue, Aquebogue, +1 631 722 3212; aquahotelbeachclub.com) MOD PAD In-house modern art gallery?

Check. Fifties era diner-chic café for when you’re feeling peckish? Check.

Private, manicured garden area where an alum from Miami’s famed Broken Shaker

will make you of-the-moment cocktails?

Check. The ten-room Gallery Hotel, above, sits in the heart of this old whaling village that’s become the heart of the North Fork’s weekend hub. Rooms from $220. (437-441 Main St, Greenport, +1 631 477 4000; galleryhotelny.com) ALL-ROUNDER You don’t have to choose between a sigh-worthy view and being in the centre of the action at the Harborfront Inn. Steps away from the Weathered Barn, where you can pick up jewellery crafted from sea-shore finds, well-curated tomes at Burton’s Books or a cool cocktail at the Frisky Oyster. Rooms from $199. (209 Front St, Greenport, +1 631 477 0707; theharborfrontinn.com)

SUMMER BUZZ From May to October, on the first Friday of each month, First Fridays on charming Love Lane in the town of Mattituck is a must-visit. From 6pm-9pm, the street is closed to cars so you can stroll the block where local businesses such as the Village Cheese Shop, Mint Clothing and Roanoke Vineyards sell their wares for your al fresco browsing and grazing pleasure.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NEW YORK JFK up to three times daily, and four flights per week from Shannon.

Traditional Irish Food & Drink with Live Music in the heart of Temple Bar The Old Storehouse is a classic Irish Bar in the heart of Dublin’s Cultural Quarter, providing our customers with great food, quality service and entertainment.

3 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, D02 CX67 Web: www.theoldstorehouse.ie

Discover our new store at 114 Grafton Street

BOXSET BREAKS From Game of Thrones’ Red Keep to Meghan Markle’s office block in Suits, the most iconic screen backdrops await discovery, says Ed Power.

1 DUBROVNIK, CROATIA GAME OF THRONES Overlooking the Adriatic, this Medieval Croatian city hardly needed HBO’s groundbreaking, adult fantasy series – the eighth and final season of which starts this April – to put it on the map.

Nonetheless, this is GoT heaven. Dominating the Old Town Fort, Lovrijenac doubles as the Red Keep – the seat of power in Westeros and, currently, the residence of Mad Queen Cersei.

Built in a triangle, the fort is split across three levels, with ten cannons facing the sea (obviously not seen on Game of Thrones).

Above the main door is an inscription that would doubtless receive a thumbs up from Jon Snow: “Freedom cannot be sold for all the gold of the world”. Other attractions include the city’s Spanish Steps (scene of Cersei’s season five “Shame Walk”) and Minčeta Tower, aka the House of the Undying where Daenerys Targaryen sought her purloined dragons.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Dubrovnik up to five times per week.

78

BOXSET BREAKS

2 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA BIG LITTLE LIES As classy as an especially huge wine glass, the slow-burn Nicole Kidman/Reese Witherspoon thriller doubles as a dark valentine to this swoonful Californian town.

This was very much a story of how the other half lived, as Monterey, population 28,000, is among the wealthiest urban areas in the United States. Kidman’s character, Celeste, resides amid the gated splendour of Carmel Highlands – which stands 90 metres above sea-level, providing stunning views over the Pacific. Close by is Bixby Bridge in Big Sur – as featured in the show’s opening credits. Monterey’s Old Fisherman’s Wharf, where Jane (Shailene Woodley) regularly meets Celeste and Madeline (Witherspoon) for coffee can also be visited, from there you can also spy sea lions playing in the harbour. Season two is due this spring, with Meryl Streep joining the cast, so there’s never been a better time to sample Monterey in the flesh.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.

4 NEW YORK, USA THE MARVELLOUS MRS MAISEL

3 MANCHESTER, UK PEAKY BLINDERS Cillian Murphy looking scary in a flat cap while Nick Cave croons – you really can’t go wrong with this BBC period hit. Just don’t book a flight for Birmingham, where Peaky Blinders is set: much of the series is filmed in Manchester, in particular the city’s cobble-stoned Northern Quarter – and there’s even a Peaky Blinders themed bar on Peter Street.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Manchester up to five times daily.

Amazon’s hit comedy is a love-letter to the rough and tumble New York comedy circuit of the 1950s. Mark’s Place in Greenwich Village stands in for the Gaslight Club where Midge cuts her stand-up teeth. She also performs at the Village Vanguard at Seventh Avenue and swings by old timey music store The Music Inn on West Fourth Street. The backdrop of Midge’s life in swanky Upper West Side is a pre-war apartment block at Riverside Drive, with views over the Hudson.

Riverside Park and Prospect Park Brooklyn make cameo appearances too.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK up to thrice daily. and from Shannon four times per week.

BOXSET BREAKS

79

5 BERLIN, GERMANY BABYLON BERLIN Weimar Berlin lives on largely in old news-reels but that didn’t stop Babylon Berlin stunningly bringing it to life. The good news is that many of the locales used in the series can be visited. The Moka Efti bar is, in real life, the Theater im Delphi in Weissensee. Opened in 1929 it no longer screens films but is a venue for live concerts. On the way swing by Alexanderplatz, which houses the Rote Burg police department where hero Gereon Rath works. On screen you can’t see the Communist-era TV Tower, though the series does feature the Berolinahaus, a 1932 high-rise considered at the time one of the capital’s most cutting-edge buildings.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin twice daily.

6 IRELAND VIKINGS

Wicklow is a stand-in for rugged Scandinavia in the History Channel’s beards ‘n’ brawn epic.

Mighty Ragnar Lothbrok’s home village of Kattegat is located at Lough Tay in Wicklow (pack a flask so you can have some tae at Tay). Much of the filming takes place in the shadow of Slane Castle, Co Meath. Cruising long ships are shot at Blessington Lakes, Co Wicklow. At Powerscourt, the iconic waterfall – already familiar from movies such as Excalibur – features when Vikings introduces us to Aslaug, Ragnar’s wife-to-be. Further West, Nun’s Beach near Ballybunion in Kerry plays the part of the Northumbrian shoreline.

7 CORNWALL, UK POLDARK

Hold on to your tri-cornered hat and head to England’s Celtic heartland to experience the lush setting of the Aidan Turner costume caper. Poldark’s Truro is in real life the settlement of Charlestown, which is well known for Medieval architecture and tall ships. It also plays the part of Falmouth, home to Captain Andrew Blamey. The mining interests are represented

by Botallack Mine, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and close by is epic Holywell Bay, where Ross and Demelza have embraced more than once.

Swoon!

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newquay daily.

80

BOXSET BREAKS

8 TORONTO, CANADA SUITS

Before she was the world’s most famous royal in-law (give or take the occasional Kate Middleton), Meghan Markle was a jobbing actor and one of the stars of legal drama Suits. The setting is the highpowered world of New York law – and like many a drama set in Manhattan, the series is shot north of the border. Toronto’s gleaming business district is a convincing stand-in for Midtown NYC. The fictional Pearson Specter Litt law firm is located at 51-storey Bay Adelaide West. Other locations featured on screen include the Fairmont Royal York hotel and the lobby of the Ritz-Carlton at Wellington Street.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toronto up to seven times per week.

9 MAJORCA, SPAIN THE NIGHT MANAGER

The hotel where Tom Hiddleston’s eponymous character is first introduced was actually The Es Saadi Resort in Morocco. However, the bulk of the action plays out in Mallorca. Hiddleston-heads are spoiled for choice. You can visit La Fortaleza, a dramatic fortress that served as the lair of Hugh Laurie’s nefarious arms dealer Richard Roper, while much of the resort was used as a stand-in for Madrid, including the terrace of Sadrassana restaurant, and Santa Eulalia Church.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Palma de Majorca twice per week.

10 LONDON, UK THE CROWN

As a tourist destination, London hardly needed a leg-up from Netflix’s right royal romp. Nonetheless devotees will find much to detain them in the UK capital. Lancaster House on Pall Mall is the stand-in for Buckingham Palace.

It is usually closed to the public but guided tours can be prebooked. Westminster Abbey, where Liz and Phil tie the knot, is represented by Ely Cathedral – though a significant carriage-ride away in deepest Cambridgeshire.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London multiple times daily.

TRUE GRIT

All is not what it seems on Berlin’s Potsdamer Strasse. As a thoroughfare, it links East and West, but look beyond the dubious shop-fronts and you’ll find a thriving arts, design and nightlife scene.

WORDS ARSALAN MOHAMMAD PHOTOGRAPHS ROBERT RIEGER

84

BERLIN

P

otsdamer Strasse is, on first glance, not much more than a grey strip of unprepossessing 1980s façades, games arcades, tabledancing clubs, sleazy cinemas and fast food joints. Leading off Berlin’s famous Potsdamer Platz, a massive transport hub and modern-day tourist Gehenna, the street fades away from the skyscrapers and hullabaloo into a long stretch that manages still to evoke the low-key charm and shabby atmosphere of old-school Berlin. To those in the know, it’s a thriving cultural tapestry, blending old and new.

Today, you’ll find swanky Paul Smith, ACNE and couture boutiques, hip new galleries, cafés, restaurants and cocktail bars rubbing shoulders with One Euro stores, offlicences (“spätis”) and Turkish grocers.

To the south, you can find one of the city’s few remaining wartime bunkers, the Hochbunker Pallasstrasse (Pallasstrasse 28), notable for being almost covered by a utilitarian 1970s apartment block and featuring in Wim Wenders’ paean to Berlin, the 1987 film Wings of Desire. Meanwhile, as you wander back up Potsdamer Strasse, it’s impossible to miss the imposing frontage of the Variete Wintergarten (wintergarten-berlin.de), where the spirit of Berlin cabaret lives on in an outrageously camp gilded theatre dating back to 1887.

Another driving factor in Potsdamer Strasse’s regeneration is the bubbling art scene. Berlin’s “scene” tends to shift about the capital every few years, settling in one spot before the cognoscenti settle for another, as yet-ungentrified part of Berlin (there are a few left) and begin

To those in the know, it’s a thriving cultural tapestry, blending old and new building up a buzz, based on pop-ups, shop-front project spaces, events and parties, with a few voguish dive bars completing the necessary cocktail for success. Once the big-name galleries begin to roll in, so do the crowds. Gallery Weekend (gallery-weekend-berlin.de), the city’s annual jamboree of art events, is based in Potsdamer Strasse and its profusion of galleries large and small in the neighbourhood means the weekend of April 26-29 is a reliably eclectic riot of art and culture.

But it’s only recently that the street has become a magnet for art and style mavens. Berlin-based curator and cultural historian An Paenhuysen – whose new group exhibition, Chromosom XY, is at the queer art space Barbiche throughout April – remembers Potsdamer Strasse as a distinctly unglamorous locale just a few years ago. “When I worked at the Kunst Bibliothek in 2010, it was quite lifeless,” she says. “The shopping malls of Potsdamer Platz were on one side and the dreariness of Potsdamer Strasse on the other. But

Opening pages, left, Die Welt art critic, Boris Pofalla, and, right, Gert Neuhaus’s Eyes at Hochbunker Pallasstrasse. Top, shadow play along Potsdamer Strasse; above, Barbiche curator and artist Lena Braun.

ONLY 10 MINUTES from Dublin Airport

VISIT DUBLIN’S BEST-KEPT SECRET

Step back into the 18th century and take a guided tour of this impeccably restored Georgian property. Newbridge House is a hidden gem with 370 acres of pastureland, woodland walks, new interactive farm experience, playground and delicious homemade treats served at the Coach House Café.

Audio guides for house tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Chinese.

Book online at newbridgehouseandfarm.com

Connect with us

MAGNIFICENT MALAHIDE CASTLE IS A STONE’S THROW AWAY

Malahide Castle is a magnificent medieval castle just 10 minutes from Dublin Airport. The castle is set on 250 acres of parkland with a story dating back to the 12th Century. Enjoy daily tours of the castle, visit the ornamental walled gardens, fairy trail, exotic butterfly house and dine or shop at the Avoca Café and Retail store.

We look forward to your visit.

Audio guides for house tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Chinese.

Book online at malahidecastleandgardens.ie

Connect with us

BERLIN

after Galerie Michael Jansson moved in, in 2008, and the trendy fashion store Andreas Murkudis followed, more and more galleries arrived.”

One of the first contemporary galleries to move into the area was Michael Jansson (galeriemichaeljanssen.de). It is still thriving today with a programme that focuses on dependably engaging contemporary art – painting, sculpture, photography and installation – from both established and emerging artists. Next door is Loock (loock.info), where you can view

Especially recommended are the insanely moreish “Kalter Hund” – rich butter cookies smothered in chocolate a captivating collection of photography by the DDR-era fashion photographer Sibylle Bergemann, and the gallery’s archive of the Gruppe Direkt collective of artists

and photographers who flourished in East Germany between 1969-1981.

Across the street from the Variete Wintergarten, a big, unprepossessing entryway (“Mercator Hof”) leads into a courtyard before an array of warehouse style buildings, which once housed the offices and printing presses of the daily newspaper Der Tagesspiegel. Today, these buildings contain some of the city’s best contemporary galleries showing international art. Especially recommended are British blue-chip brand Blain Southern (blainsouthern.com), Esther Schipper (estherschipper.com) and Plan B (plan-b. ro), featuring predominantly contemporary Romanian art. This courtyard is also home to a Berlin institution, the aforementioned Andreas Murkudis (andreasmurkudis. com), a ferociously chic boutique (think Céline, Dries van Noten, Zimmerli, Aesop, Kjaer Weis and so on, plus ultra-stylish home accessories and beauty and skincare products). This tasteful flagship store is something of a must-see.

One regular is Boris Pofalla, art critic for Die Welt newspaper and Blau magazine.

“This big street used to be a thoroughfare

87

that nobody wanted to hang around in,” he says. “Now it’s a mix of high and low end, with some beloved gems in between, like the Joseph Roth Diele – and new places are opening up all the time.”

Joseph Roth Diele (joseph-roth-diele. de) is a gorgeous little bistro that has been serving traditional, hearty German fare for decades, to loyal locals. Named after a Jewish writer who lived next door, before fleeing the Nazis in the 1930s, his name lives on in this cosy slice of old-world Berlin.

Especially recommended are the insanely more-ish “Kalter Hund” – rich butter cookies smothered in chocolate.

A substantial meal here will set you up for a tour around the Kulturforum, which sprawls outwards from the corner of Potsdamer Strasse and Scharounstrasse and where you’ll encounter one of those bewildering onslaughts of architectural mayhem that characterise this city.

The Kulturforum Berlin (kulturforumberlin.de) began life in the 1950s, when architect Hans Bernhard Scharoun was commissioned to create a repository of culture and arts. It includes a modern art museum, the striking glass Neue

88

BERLIN

Previous pages, clockwise from top left, clean lines at the cutting edge PS120 gallery; Maja Sommer, the chef at Lulu Guldsmeden hotel’s Sæson restaurant; the pristine interior of lifestyle store Andreas Murkudis; let there by light at Blain Southern; restaurant manager Jonathan Starks offering a bubbly welcome at Lulu Guldsmeden. This page, above, a bolt of colour courtesy of the U-Bahn-Linie U2 at Bülowstraße.

Fly return to BERLIN for 15,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*

Nationalgalerie (designed by Mies van der Rohe, currently under renovation), the curvilinear Philharmonie (home to the superb Berlin Philharmonic), the hard Modernist lines of the Neue Staatsbibliothek (the Berlin state library) and a must-see, the Gemäldegalerie museum, with one of the most wonderful collection of old masters worldwide.

In contrast to Kulturforum’s grandeur, Potsdamer Strasse is also home to some of the city’s most exciting experimental art spaces. “My favourite is PS120 (ps120. org),” recommends Pofalla, “a new project space above Woolworths and I would suggest visiting Helga Maria Klosterfelde (helgamariaklosterfelde.de) for unique artists’ editions.”

The street is also home to some of the art crowd’s favourite watering holes.

A perennial favourite is Victoria Bar (victoriabar.de), a boho-chic cocktail joint, perfect for people-watching, has an amazing art collection on show, including work by Martin Kippenberger, Gavin Turk,

Ugo Rondinone and others. Meanwhile, for achingly hip drinks with a uniquely Berlin twist, head across the street to Tiger Bar (oh-panama.com), whose seasonal cocktail list, based on terroir, features some truly fantastic concoctions, such as the Schöneberg Shuffle (gin, pickled grape and Riesling bitters) and the Rye & Dry (smoked tea, Moroccan soda). Meanwhile, no late-night visit to Potsdamer Strasse is complete without a cheeky snifter or two at former bordello and legendary watering hole of the city’s underground elite, Kumpelnest 3000 (kumpelnest3000.com), at Lützowstrasse 23. A vaporous dive open until the wee hours, it’s not for the faint hearted but, if you want that authentic, elegantly wasted Berlin vibe, it’s perfect.

“What’s just as important here also,” adds Pofalla, “is the geographical location.

Potsdamer Strasse connects East and West. Think of it as the main street in a western – everybody has to pass through it when travelling within Berlin. So, you might as well stop by.”

DINING in

DUBLIN?

We have you covered from Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner to Late Night Fun. Over 42 venues — 1 company — 1 point of contact,

it couldn’t be easier!

Press Up is Ireland’s leading hospitality business with award winning restaurants, bars and hotels across Dublin’s fair city.

Enjoy breakfast with a view at Sophie’s Rooftop Restaurant & Terrace, dine under the stars at Roberta’s Restaurant & Bar, sip a perfectly crafted cocktail at the Vintage Cocktail Club, or rest your head at the brand new Devlin Dublin, a design led hotel in buzzing Ranelagh.

www.pressup.ie

Book & Enquire with our Central Concierge Team

+353 1 533 7410

90

BERLIN

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS SLEEP ECO-FRIENDLY Situated on Potsdamer Strasse, Lulu Guldsmeden, below right, is a fresh, clean and quirky boutique hotel with a happy feel. Some rooms even feature hammocks, gym equipment or swings. With eco-friendly cleaning products and cosmetics on offer, along with recycling programmes, not only will you be staying in one of the loveliest hotels in Berlin, you’ll be doing your bit for the planet too. Rooms from €140.

(Potsdamer Strasse 67, Mitte, +49 45 3331 3266; guldsmedenhotels.com) DIPLOMATIC CORE Deep in the heart of Tiergarten’s forests, yet convenient for central Berlin, former Danish Embassy Das Stue is an exceptionally luxurious and beautiful design hotel. Michelinstarred Catalan chef Paco Pérez is installed in the kitchen and the ostriches from the neighbouring zoo peer into the windows. There’s also a spa with Susanne Kaufmann treatments. Rooms from €218.

(Drakestrasse 1, Tiergarten, +49 30 311 7220; das-stue.com)

ON THE QT Lebensstern is a find of a cocktail bar, situated above the Einstein Stammhaus coffee shop just off Potsdamer Strasse. It’s where Quentin Tarantino filmed scenes for Inglourious Basterds and the decadent retro feel of the place immediately makes you understand why old QT was drawn here. It’s also justly famous for its exceptionally knowledgeable – and friendly – mixologists, whose cocktails are legendarily toothsome.

(Kurfürstenstrasse 58, Tiergarten, +49 30 2639 1917; lebens-stern.de) OLD SCHOOL Rough and ready but a genuine neighbourhood hangout, Kuckucksei is where you can mingle with locals who frequent an old-school Berlin “kneipe”, complete with garrulous landlord Nomi, who is only too keen to share his passion for Hamburg football club St Pauli. Bursting with character, this

is a great place to sample some proper old-fashioned Berlin hospitality in a noisy and cheerful atmosphere. (Barbarossastr.

5a, Schöneberg, +49 30 2191 7134)

SMART TIP SKY-HIGH EYE Get your bearings atop the Panoramapunkt, at the Kollhoff Tower. Elevators – the fastest in Europe! – whisk you up over 98 metres in seconds, to observation decks on the 24th and 25th floors. Mind-blowing views. panoramapunkt.de

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BERLIN twice daily.

CENTRAL Slap-bang in the middle of the city, stylish, quiet and calm, Max Brown Ku’damm is an ideal base from which to set forth for adventures in West Berlin. With tons of shops, boutiques, restaurants, bars and galleries nearby, you’re within easy reach of Berlin’s best attractions. Or chill in your room, some of which boast comfy sofas and record players. Rooms from €143. (Uhlandstrasse 49, Wilmersdorf, +49 30 2178 2639; maxbrownhotels.com)

DRINK COCKTAILS The discreet exterior of the Victoria Bar – one rings a doorbell for admission – belies the rich, decadent atmosphere within. In this place, a notable drinking hole of artists, art dealers and collectors, scenesters and old-world bohemians, you’ll not only sip some of the city’s most distinguished concoctions but also enjoy a wonderful tableau of Berlin nightlife. Perfect for people watching or an intimate date. (Potsdamer Strasse 102, Tiergarten, +49 30 2575997; victoriabar.de)

Lightness of being – guestrooms at Lulu Guldsmeden are bright and airy, and inspired by the Hygge trend. Not coincidentally, the hotel’s restaurant, Sæson, serves Scandinavian cuisine.

stay with us

BIRMINGHAM · DUBLIN · EDINBURGH · LIVERPOOL · LONDON · LYON · MANCHESTER · MARSEILLE · PARIS · VENICE · YORK FOR RESERVATIONS CALL: +44 203 499 0748 · STAYCITY.COM

TAKE A WALK ON THE WILDE SIDE Wilde brings bespoke creative design led studio apartments to The Strand, London.

Inspired by the wit of Oscar Wilde, it’s where you will escape, unwind, cook and work in beautiful spaces designed to evoke your curiosity.

Book now at STAYCITY.COM/WILDE ESCAPE ORDINARY - Coming 2019 - Berlin - Edinburgh

SIGHTS UNSEEN Tenerife is renowned as a sun, sand and sea destination, but veer off the beaten track and you’ll also discover astonishing natural beauty and a unique local food scene.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS

94

TENERIFE

Previous pages, trekking through the Martian landscape at volcanic Teide National Park. Clockwise from left, poolside in Los Gigantes on the southwestern coast; art teacher and practitioner Angel Oval at La Hierbita restaurant, Santa Cruz; the Church of San Amaro; Jurassic larks; ocean colour scene, all at sunny Puerto de la Cruz.

TENERIFE

Visit our one-stop shop for all your package holiday needs via aerlingus.com. Find the perfect family holiday to the sun, romantic city break, unforgettable cruises and more.

95

96

TENERIFE

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to TENERIFE seven times per week and twice weekly from Cork.

Clockwise from right, zingy ceviche from chef César González; scenic scale in lush, green Anaga; sun and surf, viewed from Mirador La Paz, Puerto de la Cruz; next page blooming architecture at the Atlantic Mirage hotel.

TENERIFE

97

98

TENERIFE

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS – evident in the restaurants’ reliance on organic growing. Confidently independent, authentic and flavourful. (199 Carretera Provincial, Santa Úrsula, +34 922 304 585; tripicotea.com)

STAY REFINED “Luxuriously convenient” is one way of describing the grand experience at five-star Ritz-Carlton, Abama, a behemoth of leisure, and indeed pleasure, situated on the perennially sunny south-west coast of the island. “Lavishly appointed” is another. The unique resort comprises stunning architecture, heated swimming pools, some of the island’s best restaurants, impeccable service, spacious rooms, a world-class golf course and a rejuvenating spa. All of those amenities – and more – are set among calming gardens, buttressed by a golden sandy beach. A memorable stay. From €285 per night. (TF-47, km 9, 38687 Guia de Isora, +34 922 126 000; ritzcarlton.com)

EAT ROMANTIC If he/she isn’t down on one knee at some point over dinner at The Ritz-Carlton, Abama’s El Mirador restaurant then something is amiss. Check for a pulse! Delightfully romantic, with stunning sunset views of the island of La Gomera in the distance, and serving a menu from chef César González that is as inventive as it is chock-full of integrity makes this a very special, and unmissable, island restaurant. (TF-47, km 9, 38687 Guia de Isora, +34 922 126 000; ritzcarlton.com) TRADITIONAL La Hierbita has served the populace of Tenerife’s capital since 1893 and often feels like an unusually hospitable family home. The thing to stick

with here is tradition. Discover the best of Tenerife’s vast repertoire of unique and original dishes. Special attention is paid to the authenticity of ingredients as well as passionately delivered descriptions of the dishes. You won’t be disappointed by the enthusiastic wine suggestions either.

(19 Calle el Clavel, Santa Cruz, +34 922 244 617; lahierbita.com) FLAVOURFUL Operated by the talented Torres clan of restaurateurs, El Lagar de Mario is one of three restaurants run by the same family on the island.

Each continues a long tradition that has spanned almost 100 years, from Venezuela to Santa Úrsula. A genuine Slow Food philosophy is adhered to as well as a commitment to zero mile cooking

CLASSIC The family-run Hotel Botánico offers venerable Spanish hospitality and comfort with a Grand Hotel vibe. Rooms are spacious and decorated in a style that is both old school and luxurious.

Enjoy a superb breakfast buffet before lolling around the edge of a salubrious pool. Punctuate the relaxation with walks around its Zen gardens, a session in the revitalising spa, or a light and delicious lunch at the poolside bar. Warm service and plenty of pleasant surprises abound.

Double rooms from €255. (1 Avenida Richard J Yeoward, Puerto de la Cruz, +34 922 381 400; hotelbotanico.com) VERSATILE In the quietly prepossessing town of Laguna, Hotel Laguna Nivaria is a relaxing and restorative stop-off point for travellers wishing to take in the stunning scenery and charms of the north-eastern part of the island. Set in a 16th-century building, but with all the modern conveniences one could hope for, including whirlpool hot tubs in several bedrooms, the hotel comes heartily recommended, whether for families, groups or solo travellers. Standard rooms from €98. (11 Plaza del Adelantado, San Cristóbal de La Laguna, +34 922 264 298; lagunanivaria.com)

Enjoy THE TEMPLE BAR IRISH WHISKEY Sensibly

WARM & NATURAL

B L A R N E Y

W O O L L E N

s h op online @ bl a r n e y . c o m

M I L L S

FIVE BEST IRISH GOLF RESORTS

Looking to swing a club and lay your head in the same place?

Fionn Davenport recommends five hotels with top-class golf courses.

ROSAPENNA Co Donegal is a golfer’s dream, and Rosapenna has been enchanting golfers since the late 19th century, when the Tom Morris-designed course was considered the very best on these islands after St Andrew’s and Royal County Down. The tricky

Sandy Hills course was added in 2003 and now the two combined offer one of the best links challenges – with views to match – in Ireland. Two nights’ B&B and a round of golf on either course starts at €340 per person sharing. rosapenna.ie

PORTMARNOCK HOTEL & GOLF LINKS

This fine links in north Dublin designed by Bernhard Langer and Stan Eby is surprisingly natural given it only opened in 1996. It’s a classic 18-hole setup: the front nine play away from the handsome hotel, while the back nine end up right where you started – after a few hours ensconced in the undulating fairways fringed by marram grass. A two-night stay with breakfast and a round of golf for two from €455. portmarnock.com

IRISH GOLF RESORTS

103

CARTON HOUSE

The country pile of the earls of Kildare is this magnificent Georgian manor in Maynooth, Co Meath, dating from 1739, where rooms are split between the old house and the newer wing.

The grounds have been transformed into two championship golf courses: there’s the broad fairways of the O’Meara course and the more challenging Montgomerie course, which has something of a links feel. The Stay, Dine & Golf package (from €335) includes overnight accommodation, dinner in the Linden Tree Restaurant and a round on either course. cartonhouse.com

MOUNT JULIET

A grand, ivy-clad mansion with elegant rooms and a Michelinstarred restaurant cast in 600 hectares of lush gardens and woodland is the hotel’s main lure, but golfers will undoubtedly have their gaze on the perfectly contoured course designed by Jack Nicklaus. Hugging the River Nore in Thomastown, Co Kilkenny, and beautifully framed by handsome oak and beech trees, the host of the 2002 WGC – American Express Championship (won

by Tiger Woods) is one of the best parkland layouts in Ireland. One night’s B&B in the Manor House and a round of golf starts at €317 per room. mountjuliet.ie

104

ADARE MANOR

IRISH GOLF RESORTS

Less than a year after it reopened following a €70 million refurb, Limerick’s Adare Manor was voted the world’s best luxury hotel in 2018. Already pretty grand before the work, Adare 2.0 has 42 new rooms, a new ballroom and a completely redesigned golf course

bearing Tom Fazio’s signature. It is built to host championships, including maybe a future edition of the Ryder Cup? Two nights’ B&B for two including a round of golf starts at €730 – but you must hire a caddy. adaremanor.com

WINTHROP, DELIVERING TURNKEY DATA CENTRES, FASTER, LEANER & SMARTER. YOUR EXPERIENCED PARTNER FOR DATA CENTRE’S IN EUROPE.

-− Delivered 57 57 MW MW over over 18 18months months -− 100 61 MW MWcurrently currentlyunder underconstruction construction in 3 in 4 different European countries different European countries

106

48 HOURS

48 HOURS IN

VENICE

A lifetime in Venice isn’t enough. But if you’ve only got 48 hours, here are Elizabeth Heath’s best bets.

DON’T MISS PROVOKING “May you live in interesting times,” is a Chinese curse and it’s also the theme – and the promise – of Art Biennale, the 2019 Biennale di Venezia. At venues across the city from May 11 until October 24, with the London-based Dubliner Eva Rothschild representing Ireland at this year’s installment. (Ticket office on Ca’ Giustinian, San Marco 1364/A, +39 041 521 8711; labiennale.org)

EAT EXPERIENCE Cantina Do Spade has been dishing up cicchetti (Venetian tapas) and ombra (wine by the glass) since 1448.

There’s a proper sit-down restaurant but we prefer the crowded, rustic bar area, where patrons order rounds of food and drinks at the counter, and eat them at a communal table or standing outside in a narrow alley.

(Calle del Scaleter 859, +39 041 521 0583; cantinadospade.com)

LITERARY Books in bins. Books in bathtubs. Books in a gondola. Libreria Acqua Alta, as its name (“high waters”) suggests, is used to dealing with Venetian floods. This is one of those “only in Venice” places you should go out of your way to find, snap a few photos and, just maybe, buy a book or two. (Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa 5176; +39 041 296 0841) VIBRANT Eye-popping shades are everywhere on Burano, a tiny island in the northern Lagoon. Reached via a 40-minute waterbus-ride from Venice, Burano offers a real slice of Lagoon life, where fishing and lacemaking traditions still prevail. Be sure to order a seafood lunch: risotto is an island speciality. Take Vaporetto number 12 from Fondamente Nove, €7.50 one-way.

Clockwise from top, attention-grabbing street sculpture; the classic Venetian vista; suite success at Splendid Venice hotel; Technicolor homes in charming Burano; tasty cicchetti come in all shapes and sizes.

STARRY Forty minutes’ boat ride and 1,000 figurative miles from Venice, Venissa Wine Resort offers Michelin-star dining, bespoke wine made from some of the world’s rarest grapes, and a bucolic setting inside a walled vineyard and kitchen garden.

Menus vary according to the season and the day’s catch, and presentations are high art. (Fondamenta S. Caterina 3, Mazzorbo, +39 041 527 2281; venissa.it) BINGE Is craving chocolate a virtue or a vice? Decide for yourself at VizioVirtù chocolatiers, a factory retail shop and bar offering a jaw-dropping assortment of chocolates and confectionery. In summer, their house-made gelato is just the treat.

Or, to warm your bones, try a Goldoni hot chocolate. (Calle del Forner 5988, +39 041 275 0149; viziovirtu.com)

48 HOURS

107

SLEEP COSY Despite being just off busy Calle Larga XXII Marzo and only five minutes’ walk from the sea of humanity that is Piazza San Marco, Hotel Flora is a tranquil, three-star retreat with a vintage feel. Quiet rooms, a shady garden, an abundant breakfast buffet and a master barman make this family-run spot a great find in the heart of Venice. Rooms from €175. (Calle dei Bergamaschi 2283, +39 041 520 5844; hotelflora.it) DECO When you try to modernise a 14th-century palace for 21st-century guests, it’s easy to screw up the aesthetic and bury historic charm. That’s fortunately not the case at Ca’ Pisani, a boutique hotel in Dorsoduro. An Art Deco aesthetic prevails and the 1930s/1940s decor blends effortlessly with the building’s ancient character. Plus, there’s a wine and cheese bar. Yes, please. Rooms from €265.

(Rio Terrà Foscarini 979, +39 041 240 1411; capisanihotel.it)

DRINK HIGH NOTE Reserve a table at the venerable Venice Jazz Club and enjoy grooves played by the in-house quartet.

The atmosphere is just as it should be – hip yet informal, with instruments and musical ephemera on every available surface. The €20 cover includes a 9pm concert and one free drink, and the bar has plenty more where that came from. (Dorsoduro 3102, +39 340 150 4985; venicejazzclub.com) SWOON Overlooking the Giudecca Canal, Skyline Rooftop Bar is all about the panorama – and the fancy drinks. Tear yourself away from ogling the Venetian skyline, all aglow in the setting sun, long enough to peruse the 40-page drinks menu.

That €16 cocktail is easier to swallow when the views are this good. (Giudecca 810, +39 041 272 3316, skylinebarvenice.it) OFF-CAMPUS Pick a bar on laidback Campo Santa Margherita, the nighttime haunt of residents and students from a nearby uiversity. The antithesis of San Marco, the large campo is lined with casual bars offering cheap drinks and small bites. Find an outdoor table and while away the evening, or bar-hop until the wee hours. (Dorsoduro District; camposantamargherita.com)

SMART FLIERS

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to VENICE daily.

PLUSH What’s in a name? At Splendid Venice, a lot. This five-star stunner is awash with style and prestige, from the private boat mooring on Rio dei Bareteri to canalside dining at the hotel’s Le Maschere restaurant, to the roof deck with views of Venice’s many towers. Rooms are a dignified riot of velvet and brocade, and suites are downright palatial. Rooms from €470 to however much you wish to spend.

(San Marco Mercerie 760, +39 041 520 0755; starhotelscollezione.com)

Come for the flexibility, stay for the community.

6 flexible office space locations in Dublin city centre At Glandore, we care deeply about building long term connections and relationships with our members and partners. We offer our members more than just office space, we strive to create environments that encourage, inspire and support the growth of the companies we house.

glandore.ie | info@glandore.ie | +353 (0)1 669 4700 | @GlandoreNetwork

BUSINESS

LONDON

110

HEAVY METTLE

With or without the uncertainties of Brexit, London will always be a global player, says Lucy White.

L

ondon will always be open for business. Whether blighted by Great Plagues, Great Fires, Hogarthian squalor, The Blitz or Brexit, Britain’s capital is a serial survivor.

Where once the Romans, AngloSaxons and Vikings reigned supreme, more recent invaders include multinational finance, digital, design and consultancy firms, each lured

by London’s historically multicultural populace, geographical advantage and a reliable infrastructure honed from centuries of industry.

It remains the largest financial exporter in the world, with tech, media, retail and the tourism sector packing economic might. More than twice as many euros are traded in the UK as in the Eurozone, and nearly twice as many US dollars are traded in the UK as in the US. Of course, who knows what the future holds over the next few years, with London being in an economic, and ideological, bubble all of its own. But whether you’re striding through the

mural-daubed, caffeinated streets of Shoreditch or the glistening high-rises of Canary Wharf, there’s very much a sense that the City will keep calm, slug a Fair Trade, nitro flat white and carry on.

London’s palpable panoply of centuries-old architecture and youthful swagger offers a very specific brand of cool that attracts employers and visitors alike. Bottle the city’s energy and you could light an entire continent. So, while the national mood may be flickering and strobing right now, the capital will remain a shining, megawatt example of fortitude. Business as usual, then.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London City, Heathrow and Gatwick multiple times daily.

GET SMART ARRIVALS London’s public transport system is second to none – and all it takes is the tap of a debit card to get you through the rail system’s turnstiles, no ticket or Oyster card necessary.

FRESH START Freshen up with a hot shower in the Aer Lingus Lounge at Heathrow’s terminal two, accessible to all business class and AerClub members.

For more info, visit aerlingus.com.

HOT HUBS Hot-desking in coffee shops isn’t always ideal. If you’re a frequent flier to London, consider one of the many private members’ clubs, such as The Clubhouse (theclubhouselondon.com), which has spaces around the City, or The Curtain in Shoreditch (see “Sleep” on page 112).

BUSINESS

111

EAT CONTINENTAL Austrian food. All schnitzel with noodles, right? Not quite. Although Fischer’s in Marylebone – which does indeed serve a delicious schnitzel – has a menu that’s wide-reading enough to please the entire Von Trapp family. There’s terrific brötchen (cured seafood served on rye), sauerkraut, horseradish roasted cauliflower and bratwurst galore. Be sure to leave room for a belly-patting strüdel and/ or a Wiener melange (espresso with whipped cream). The vintage-train-style loos are the cherry on top of a real charmer.

(50 Marylebone High St, +44 20 7466 5501; fischers.co.uk)

WIDESCREEN If you’re working around the South Bank, impress a client at Skylon on the third floor of Festival Hall. Looking out on panoramas of the River Thames, you’ll pick out Hungerford and Jubilee bridges stretching across to Embankment, as well as familiar skyline architecture.

Such views may compete with a well-travelled yet British menu, whose ingredients are UK sourced, right. Pre- and post-theatre menus involve two courses at £20, three courses at £25 from 5pm until 7pm and 9pm until 11pm. (Belvedere Rd, Royal Festival Hall, +44 20 7654 7800; skylon-restaurant.co.uk)

REFINED At Bob Bob Ricard, the humble pie has been transformed into something quite deluxe: choose between the Mariner’s or the Champagne and truffle pie, each golden, flakey crown branded to perfect. A mash-up of British and Russian cuisine – via America, with lobster mac ‘n’ cheese – shouldn’t work but you’ll never have a mediocre dish here. Check out the glamorous Orient Express inspired Blue Room. “Press for Champagne” reads the gold button at each table. Sure, it’d be rude not to. (1 Upper James St, +44 20 3145 1000; bobbobricard.com)

112

BUSINESS

SLEEP VIBING The Curtain in East London’s trendsetting Shoreditch is a magnet for creative types: by day, the plush ground-floor lobby and Green Room bar attract MacBook-tapping, Bluetooth-headphoned tastemakers, while the poolside LIDO restaurant – retractable roof at the ready – is a hive of lunch-meeting activity. By night, and at weekends, public spaces have the right amount of giddy atmosphere, while guest rooms are vast of bed and big on comfort and style. Private memberships are available, and don’t leave without booking a table at the Red Rooster downstairs: excellent American-South comfort food with a chaser of superb live music. B&B from £250.

(45 Curtain Rd, +44 20 3146 4545; thecurtain.com)

OPULENT A few strides from Holborn underground, L’oscar should be, on paper at least, a noisy prospect. Thankfully, though, guests are cosseted from urban din in a decadent, soundproofed riot of jewel-coloured velvet, upholstered jacquard walls and wood panelling. As its name and grandiose design suggest, this five-star is an homage to Oscar Wilde and the Bloomsbury set. Wilde, Woolf et al would surely approve of the lavish rooms, but also the topnotch cuisine at its Baptist Bar and Grill: a domed temple to the finest ingredients cooked simply and superbly. Rooms from £315.

(2-6 Southampton Row, +44 20 7405 5555; loscar.com)

LOCATION Tucked away on the cobblestoned Garlick Hill, Vintry & Mercer has already been garlanded for its leafy interiors – and also for its eco credentials: it runs on renewable electricity (wind, solar and biomass). Its name references the neighbourhood’s wine and textile heritage, as does the discerning, retro-vibe decor, while the spectacle of St Paul’s Cathedral and the Shard from its Mercer Rooftop Bar and Restaurant is a reminder of how very central you are. There, tuck into grilled shellfish in a vanilla butter or enjoy a nightcap at Vintry and Mercer’s 1920s-style bar. Rooms from £175.

(19-20 Garlick Hill, +44 20 3908 8088; vintryandmercer.com)

114

BUSINESS

is unexplainable and it all begins with highly detailed conceptual ideas. I am in love with London’s cultural variety, its vast catalogue of suppliers and an extreme appetite for perfected design. It’s a wonderful city and also so easy to nip off to the surrounding countryside to meet new international clients. Both cities are similar in terms of clientele, with Dublin being on a smaller scale for the size of the events, of course. In Dublin, we often see a more intimate, family occasion rather than a world stage.

Most surprising London venue that you’ve ever produced an event in?

We are working a lot with iconic venues such as Sky Garden and The Shard, and also the Kimpton Fitzroy Hotel [ballroom left], which is a location that has yet to be discovered properly. With blank spaces that already have wonderful architecture, we can transform to any theme and they’ll look stunning.

BUSINESS INSIDER

PARTY ON Steven Duggan is an Irish-born, London-based party planner of the highest order: he is the owner of Steven Duggan Events, which specialises in exclusive events, from weddings to corporate soirees. His business is global and high-profile clients include Elton John, Adele and Simon Cowell.

How has London changed since you first moved there in 2009 – and how has London changed you? London has progressed massively in the events world since I arrived and set up my company.

International clients have embraced the “art” of events and weddings, and are choosing to explore unique and elaborate ideas to best celebrate their occasion.

Where are your favourite London restaurants to impress a client – and where has impressed you as a client?

Clients generally value their privacy, so we usually work in private dining spaces within restaurants. The London EDITION Hotel, Novikov, China Tang and Nobu would be among the favourites. Personally, I am more of a Soho lover. Give me a good brasserie and I’m happy. That said I have been recently impressed by restaurants German Gymnasium, Hutong and Hakkasan for both atmosphere and food.

Where do you go to decompress?

I generally lead a very normal life. I love my local coffee shops where I can relax and switch off, or going for a nice walk along the Thames with my dog. The weekends are spent with good friends – fun times to make it all worthwhile.

London hasn’t necessarily changed me … but it has given me the ambition and freedom to explore my extravagant design ideas.

What do you love most about doing business in London and how does it compare with Dublin? The magic of creating a show-stopping event for guests

Fly return to LONDON for 9,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*

Get the right people behind you At William Fry, strong client relationships and high quality advice are the hallmarks of our business.

Our client-focused service combines technical excellence with commercial awareness and a practical, constructive approach to business issues.

williamfry.com

Bryan Bourke

Managing Partner bryan.bourke@williamfry.com

DUBLIN

|

LONDON

Andrew McIntyre

Head of US O�ices andrew.mcintyre@williamfry.com

|

NEW YORK

|

Ivor Banim

Head of London O�ice ivor.banim@williamfry.com

SAN FRANCISCO

|

Leo Moore

FDI Partner, Dublin O�ice leo.moore@williamfry.com

S I L I C O N VA L L E Y

116

BUSINESS

I LOVE VISITIN G …

A DAY IN THE LIFE

Ann McGee is founder and managing director of MIAS Pharma, a virtual pharmaceutical service provider based in Dublin that offers a licensed framework by which a pharmaceutical company outside the EU can release their medicines into the European marketplace.

6.45am The start of another day filled with opportunity. I find an earlier rising time very challenging but I do it of course, eg red-eye flights when travelling abroad for a day of business.

I like to move at a relaxed pace and select a few outfit choices the night before – comfort and appropriateness for the schedule ahead.

8am At my desk and set to go.

The pharmaceutical sector starts early so it’s not often that there’s the luxury of a gentle start. As an international business, the first action is to catch up on emails received overnight from around the world and every day is completely different. I always have a plan, however flexibility is essential for when urgent matters arise for our clients or for our team.

11am A typical day involves internal and external appointments, with operational deliverables back-to-back every 30-60 minutes. Working closely with my team and jumping across different elements of the business allows me to keep a finger on the pulse, see new opportunities and respond to the unexpected. From planning through to performance review, my hands-on forte is technical delivery and business development with clients. As a pharmacist with 35 years’ experience in technical roles within the pharmaceutical industry – and as a regulator and as a consultant – I’ve a broad perspective, working with my team

PARIS A city full of sophistication that operates at a pace that never feels rushed. The wonderful restaurants and cafés provide a perfect opportunity to watch the world go by. I particularly like the bohemian atmosphere around Montmartre. And the French language is so romantic, I could listen to it forever.

to bring solutions to technical challenges in the manufacture and supply chain of medicines. A ten-minute pause midmorning is great – a cup of decaf tea and a review of how the day is unfolding.

3pm Phone and email interactions with clients in the USA kick off. A very simple lunch of cheese and yoghurt is my norm, eaten at my desk. Too much to do to break the momentum just yet.

4.30pm I try to get the most of a natural energy dip by scheduling time for strategic or creative thinking in the quietness of my office. Classical music in the background is both relaxing and stimulating. Lots more decaf tea – and dried fruit as a sugar boost works wonders.

9pm Winding down. I like to be current with world events and to be home to tune into the news with my dinner on my lap – cooked by my husband, who is a saint – with a glass of red wine. Catching up with my husband and my two youngadult sons is fun – when their social lives allow our paths to cross, that is. A yoga class a few times a week really works to bring my mind to rest.

11pm Lights out. It’s time to sleep.

MIAS Pharma is one of four winners of the Aer Lingus Start-Up Awards, which celebrates small up-and-coming businesses at Aer Lingus’ home base of Fingal, Co Dublin.

PRAGUE I love the Old Town, with its cobbled, narrow streets and beautiful historic architecture. The city has a laissez-faire ambience, a live-and-let-live atmosphere that is relaxing and empowering.

A youthful energy offers lots of promise for a successful future.

BOSTON I like a home-fromhome atmosphere when I travel on business and I get this in Boston.

It’s small enough to walk around, yet big enough to have a stimulating energy. There’s an Irish presence from emigrants who have made it their home and – very important – it has great shopping.



Prime Cork City Centre location



Penrose One – 80,000 sq ft & Penrose Two – 170,000 sq ft



250,000 sq ft of Grade – A office space



Entire scheme under construction now



Floorplates up to 21, 000 sq ft



Move in April 2020

www.penrosedock.com

New Gold LEED premium office space at 50% the cost of Dublin equivalents JCD Group, 1104 City Gate Mahon, Cork, Ireland.

Tel: +353 21 461 4726 Email: info@jcdgroup.ie

COMMERCIAL PROPERTY DEVELOPER S

www.jcdgroup.ie

118

HOTELS

3 NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK

BARCELONA Praktik Èssens is the sixth Praktik hotel to open in the Catalan capital, this one in the upmarket Passeig de Gràcia and inspired by perfume. So literal is its concept, the 19th-century, 37-room property is an olfactory pyramid of different fragrance notes on each floor. Clean lines, white brickwork, a muted colour palette and an outdoor terrace make for a tasteful stay. Rooms from €62. praktikhotels.com

HIP, HIP MARAIS!

Small is beautiful – and very bonkers – at the Parisian Hôtel du Petit Moulin, finds Nancy Rockett.

C

oco Chanel once said, “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off”. There is no such restraint at the Hôtel du Petit Moulin, which rips up the “less is more” rulebook and throws the kitchen sink at it – rendered in trompe-l’œil, of course. This is to be expected from Chanel’s polar-opposite couturier, Christian Lacroix, who designed this boutique hotel’s exuberant interiors.

Blink on the Rue de Poitou and you could easily miss the Hôtel du Petit Moulin, which is disguised as an old boulangerie. Pourquoi?

Because it marks the spot of Paris’ first bakery and is apparently where Victor Hugo bought his baguettes.

Venturing deeper inside this listed property feels a bit like inching into a funky Narnia – one with

toile de jouy wall art, mid-century furniture, animal print, polka dots and everything in between. No room here is the same, each one given a different theme or mood. The staff, fortunately, is down to earth and eminently helpful.

The hotel is located in the fashionable Marais, home to some of the city’s coolest boutiques and labels, such as heritage brand Saint James, contemporary embroidery atelier Maison Labiche and the utilitarian chic-sters Le Mont St Michel. On even the most cursory walk around the block you’ll lose count of understatedly hip locals – good shoes, good coats, good hair – from which we can all learn a thing or two about sartorial soft power.

Heaven forbid that Monsieur Lacroix ever reins it in, though. Rooms from €212. hotelpetitmoulinparis.com

LONDON A spring reopening rather than a new opening, One Aldwych near Covent Garden has been given much more than a lick of paint: interiors now resemble a residential townhouse, harking back to the building’s Edwardian past. Classy shades and shapes are elegance personified, while the rebirth of its Eneko Basque Kitchen & Bar is sure to draw a peckish crowd. Rooms from £425. onealdwych.com

PHILADELPHIA One of the biggest emerging hotel trends is serviced apartments. ROOST East Market is one such place, for long and short-term stays. Slick apartments are bathed in natural light, and amenities include landscaped terraces, community vegetable gardens, a 20-metre heated lap pool, fitness centre, demo kitchen, private screening room, a bike share scheme and a concierge. From $228. myroost.com

NATUR AL CHAR ACTER. TIMELESS ELEGANCE. The K Club, Ireland’s First AA 5 Red Star Hotel, is a luxury resort nestled in the beautiful county of Kildare, where the river Liffey meanders through the soft green countryside.

With the promise of luxurious accommodation, exquisite dining and wonderful experiences such as kayaking, horse riding, and so much more, we look forward to welcoming you and yours, to help you share a moment in time that you’ll never forget.

BOOK YOUR EXPERIENCE AT THE K CLUB NOW. Contact Reservations at: +353 (0) 1 601 7200 E: sales@kclub.ie

|

Web: www.kclub.ie

120

BUSINESS

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT International business expert and co-founder of Boston College Ireland Business Council (BCIBC), Dr Bob Mauro travels the world on business but has a particular professional and personal connection with the Dublin-Boston route, the two cities that host the biannual BCIBC Leadership Summits.

1 TAKE TIME TO LEARN HOW OTHERS SEE THE WORLD The greatest beauty of travel is that we get to meet others who are inherently different from ourselves. We all have prejudices that can limit our experiences.

This is why I love to spend time with people, sharing experiences. Some of my biggest life lessons have come from some of the most unlikely sources.

2 ALWAYS TRY TO BE OF SERVICE There is nothing demeaning about putting yourself at the service of another. It is a privilege, and an ethos I learned at Boston College, which actively encourages service. The busy world of business can be dominated by those who place no real value on relationships. Engaging and serving others is hugely beneficial. It is the true foundation of a good business relationship.

3 ALWAYS GROW INTO THE FUTURE The world changes rapidly and the pace of change continually increases. I have found it matters less what we’ve done than what we will do. If you’re able to see things for what they are, how they can grow into the future, you will put yourself in a great place to lead.

4 BE SURE TO EAT WHAT YOUR HOST GIVES YOU One essential skill for working across the globe is an iron stomach, something I learned in Ireland when I mistakenly asked a host at a business breakfast meeting what black pudding was made of (congealed pigs blood for breakfast, anyone?). You must be willing to eat what your host provides. My motto is “shut up and eat up”. People of all nations take immense pride in sharing their dishes.

5 EVERYONE IN THE WORLD IS A TERRIBLE DRIVER I hate to break it to you but you are probably not a very good driver.

I live just west of Boston. We’re such terrible drivers, we’re known as “Massholes”. But, after driving in other parts of the world, it is clear that we’re all terrible drivers, we just get used to our own local bad habits. Who knew that the orange traffic light means go faster? Sure, any Dubliner will tell you that!

6 VISIT BOSTON IN SPRING Just like the old song says, “come to Boston in the springtime”. The winters can be cold, the summers hot and the autumns busy, but Boston is a beautiful place to be at this time of year.

DR BOB’S SMART CITIES DUBLIN & BOSTON DESTINATION Boston and Dublin are my favourite cities in the world to do business. As a founder of the Boston College Ireland Business Council, I find myself working in both places equally, to drive transatlantic business engagement.

Bostonians and Dubliners are both happy to collaborate over a pint, which is grand with me.

EAT Galleria Umberto, in Boston’s North End, is great. Although a relative of mine referred to it as a “chipper”, this Sicilian pizza place is old school in what it serves, how it does it and what it charges.

I appreciate its authenticity and uniqueness. Plus, the same family has run it for three generations. galleriaumbertonorthend.com

STAY The Merrion Hotel in Dublin [far left] is the perfect place to stay when working, allowing business travellers to focus on their business.

Everything is high spec, but what sets this hotel apart is the quality of the team. Everyone knows their role and everyone is focused on guest satisfaction – and this makes it very special. merrionhotel.com

TRANSPORT YOURSELF TO THE

FUTURE

GET ON BOARD AND MEET THE TEAM AT

G. MONDINI

HALL 11.1 STAND B60

BILWINCO

HALL 11.0 STAND B65

METALQUIMIA HALL 9.0 STAND C80

THE TRADE SHOW IN

FRANKFURT 4 – 9 MAY 2019

HALL 9.0 STAND B80 DIGI

HALL 11.1 STAND C81

EAGLE PI

HALL 9.1 STAND A88

TAVIL

HALL 11.1 STAND C61

PHARMAFOODS has over 20 years’ experience supplying, installing

New revolutionary technology REDUCE or ELIMINATE YOUR PLASTIC WASTE. Produce your cardboard trays inline. See if for yourself at IFFA G. MONDINI Hall 11.1 Stand B60.

and maintaining process, packing and inspection technology for food and non food companies. We can help future proof your business with the most flexible, cost effective, high speed technology on the market, This will give your company a market advantage. Plastic reduction is now imperative, Pharmafoods can reduce or eliminate plastic from packaging.

Contact Pharmafoods through our website www.pharmafoods.net. We can offer individual and complete line solutions, that are practical reliable and specific to your requirements.

Ivowen business park, Kilsheelan, Co. Tipperary, Ireland E dermot@pharmafoods.net T +00353 86 2590 667 W www.pharmafoods.net

PROCESS-PACKING AND INSPECTION TECHNOLOGY

Let us entertain you We’ve got loads of brilliant movies, TV shows and music for you to enjoy.

124

INFLIGHT

Box office hits Settle in and enjoy some of the latest Hollywood blockbusters.

Our

top film choice

Drama

R

119 mins

The Favourite A frail Queen Anne occupies the throne.

Stars Olivia Colman, Rachel Weisz, Emma Stone EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Comedy

R

117 mins

A Simple Favor

A single mother investigates her friend’s disappearance. Stars Anna Kendrick, Blake Lively EN FR ES

Drama

R

136 mins

A Star Is Born

Mystery

R

141 mins

Bad Times at the El Royale

A musician helps a young singer find fame. Stars Lady Gaga, Bradley Cooper, Sam Elliott

Seven strangers meet at a rundown hotel. Stars Jeff Bridges, Cynthia Erivo

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Biography

PG13

134 mins

Bohemian Rhapsody

Action

PG13

114 mins

Bumblebee

Chronicles of the band Queen and lead singer Freddie Mercury. Stars Rami Malek, Lucy Boynton, Gwilym Lee

Charlie discovers Bumblebee, battle-scarred and broken. Stars Hailee Steinfeld, Justin Theroux, Angela Bassett

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

125

INFLIGHT

Biography

R

106 mins

Can You Ever Forgive Me? The true story of a celebrity biographer. Stars Melissa McCarthy, Richard E Grant

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Action

PG

89 mins

Action

PG13

130 mins

Creed II

Action

PG13

134 mins

Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald

Heavyweight Adonis Creed faces off against Viktor Drago. Stars Michael B Jordan, Tessa Thompson, Sylvester Stallone

The second installment of the ‘Fantastic Beasts’ series.

Stars Eddie Redmayne, Katherine Waterston

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Family

PG

130 mins

Johnny English Strikes Again

Mary Poppins Returns

Johnny English returns to thwart a hacker. Stars Rowan Atkinson, Ben Miller, Olga Kurylenko

Mary Poppins is back to help the Banks family find joy. Stars Emily Blunt, Lin-Manuel Miranda, Meryl Streep

EN IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Action

101 mins

R

Peppermint

A woman attempts to avenge the death of her husband and daughter.

Stars Jennifer Garner, John Gallagher Jr, John Ortiz EN FR DE ES PU CCEN

KidZone

Drama

PG13

141 mins

Comedy

PG13

First Man

Green Book

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR ES CCEN

A look at the life of the astronaut Neil Armstrong.

Stars Ryan Gosling, Claire Foy, Jason Clarke

Crime

R

115 mins

130 mins

Two men develop a bond while on the journey of a lifetime. Stars Linda Cardellini, Viggo Mortensen, Mahershala Ali

Action

PG13

112 mins

The Girl in the Spider’s Web

Venom

A computer hacker and journalist get involved with cybercriminals. Stars Claire Foy, Cameron Britton

Eddie Brock acquires powers, unleashing the symbiote Venom. Stars Tom Hardy, Michelle Williams, Riz Ahmed

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

KidZone

G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13

Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Biography

R

132 mins

Vice

Crime

R

129 mins

Widows

The story of Dick Cheney, an unassuming Washington insider. Stars Christian Bale, Amy Adams, Steve Carell

Four widows take fate into their own hands. Stars Viola Davis, Elizabeth Debicki, Carrie Coon, Liam Neeson

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

KidZone

PG

112 mins

Ralph Breaks The Internet: Wreck-It Ralph 2

Ralph and Vanellope are back to take on the internet.

Voiced by John C Reilly, Sarah Silverman, Gal Gadot EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

KidZone

PG

96 mins

Smallfoot

A young Yeti is convinced humans exist. Voiced by Channing Tatum, James Corden, Zendaya EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Français

DE

Deutsch

IT

Italiano

ES

Español

PU

Portuguese CCEN Closed Caption English

ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS

English Subtitles

126

INFLIGHT

All the classics R

Take a trip down movie memory lane with our great selection of classics.

Our animation film package will guarantee fun for all the family with classics including ‘Bambi’, ‘Peter Pan’ and ‘Beauty and the Beast’.

KidZone

Enjoy our action packed Marvel Universe package, starring some of your favourite superheroes such as ‘Captain America’, ‘Ironman’ and ‘Thor’.

120 mins

PG13

103 mins

137 mins

PG13

135 mins

PG13

109 mins

PG13

197 mins

Doctor Zhivago Stars Omar Sharif, Julie Christie

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN DE ES

92 mins

130 mins

PG13

R

120 mins

Dodgeball: A True Underdog Story Stars Vince Vaughan

Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 2 Stars Daniel

Radcliffe

It’s Complicated Stars Meryl Streep, Steve Martin

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

R

PG13

97 mins

R

Bridget Jones’s Diary Stars Renée Zellweger

PG13

Marvel e Univers

PG13

121 mins

August: Osage County Stars Meryl Streep

137 mins

PG13

96 mins

J Edgar Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Naomi Watts

Jailhouse Rock Stars Elvis Presley, Judy Tyler

EN

EN FR

PG13

142 mins

PG

PG13

108 mins

Mamma Mia! Stars Meryl Streep, Pierce Brosnan EN FR DE IT ES

104 mins

PG13

118 mins

Romeo + Juliet Stars Claire Danes, Leonardo DiCaprio

Singin’ In the Rain Stars Gene Kelly

The Beatles: Eight Days a Week – The Touring Years Stars

Paul McCartney

The Bridges of Madison County Stars Clint Eastwood

The Devil Wears Prada Stars Anne Hathaway

The Great Gatsby Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan

The Greatest Showman Stars Hugh Jackman

The Intern Stars Robert De Niro, Anne Hathaway

EN FR DE

EN FR IT ES

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

PG

101 mins

PG13

179 mins

PG13

116 mins

R

156 mins

R

120 mins

R

115 mins

PG13

195 mins

PG13

153 mins

The Lego Ninjago Movie Voiced by Jackie Chan

The Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers Stars Elijah Wood

The Post Stars Meryl Streep, Tom Hanks

The Revenant Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Domhnall Gleeson

The Shawshank Redemption Stars Tim Robbins

Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri Stars Frances McDormand

Titanic Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Kate Winslet

West Side Story Stars Natalie Wood, George Chakiris

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE

EN DE

Irish movies and shorts

PG13

10 mins

PG13

100 mins

PG13

87 mins

PG13

11 mins

PG13

10 mins

PG13

7 mins

PG13

8 mins

PG13

17 mins

A Short Film About Fear Stars Luke O’Grady

Black 47 Stars Hugo Weaving, Stephen Rea

Damo & Ivor: The Movie Stars Andy Quirk, Ruth McCabe

Gustav Stars Seán T Ó Meallaigh

Late Afternoon Stars Fionnula Flanagan

Lift Off Stars Jane Brennan

Peel Stars Lauryn Canny, Ally Ní Chiaráin

Saving Santa Stars Éva Morris, Paul Ronan

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

the ca stle | the lodge | the old stable mews

There’s more rooms at the Lodge!

T

his Summer, Castle Leslie Estate is adding more beautiful bedrooms to The Lodge. The new extension will add 21 gorgeous new guestrooms, bringing the total bedroom capacity to 50 rooms at The Lodge.

The estate is also home to the magnificent Castle which offers guests the opportunity to stay in one of its twenty breath-taking bedrooms.

Castle Leslie Estate is nestled on 1,000 acres of undulating Irish countryside, dotted with ancient woodland and glittering lakes, and is one of the last great Irish castle estates still in the hands of its founding family.

A host of activities are on offer from falconry, clay target shooting, fishing and walking trails to hot air balloon rides, spa treatments and the famous world class equestrian centre.

Steeped in history and full of character and charm, it is the ultimate Irish rural escape.

80 minutes from Dublin, 60 minutes from Belfast, and a million miles from anywhere.

An Overnight Escape to include one nights accommodation, a full hearty Irish breakfast and a 5 course dinner in the 2 AA Rosette award winning Snaffles Restaurant in July & August 2019 starts from €140 per person sharing at The Lodge.

Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough, Monaghan

t: + 353 47 88 100 www.castleleslie.com

128

INFLIGHT

TV time Catch up on an old favourite or discover a new show.

Business CNBC Conversation An interview with Alibaba CEO Daniel Zhang CNBC Conversation CNBC meet the successful Sarah Brightman Managing Asia An interview with Cisco chairman Chuck Robbins Marketing. Media. Money A closer look at Spotify, the music app The Edge – Elizabeth Schulze The entertainment industry The Edge – Karen Tso Examining the implications surrounding AI

Kidzone

The Good Place, S3 E1–2 A new timeline finds Eleanor, Chidi, Jason and Tahani leading completely separate lives on Earth. Michael must monitor the humans from afar and hope that they do not succumb to the lure of their old lifestyles. But without guidance, can they truly reform?

Austin & Ally Austin has to retake a Spanish test Giving Tales Classic fairy tales by Hans Christian Anderson I’m a Fish A series of animated short films about fish LEGO Star Wars: The Freemaker Adventures Rowan is captured Mr Men and Little Miss Mr Men and Little Miss adventures The Adventures of Tintin Tintin gets more than he bargained for The Tom and Jerry Show A cat and mouse brawl with each other

Laugh out loud

Atlanta, S1 E1–4 Atlanta is the critically acclaimed comedy-drama series starring Donald Glover, aka Childish Gambino. The show follows two cousins navigating the rap scene in Atlanta. Glover’s excellence is showcased throughout each episode with his clever writing, nuanced directing and magnetic performance.

2 Broke Girls Two waitresses hope to launch their business American Dad The escapades of Stan Smith, a CIA Agent Baskets A man pursues his dream to become a professional clown Bridget & Eamonn A typical unhappily married 80s Irish couple Curb Your Enthusiasm Hilarious predicaments of Larry David Derry Girls The life of a 16-year-old girl during the Troubles Finding Joy Joy Morris’s quiet life is turned up-side-down Fresh Off the Boat A Taiwanese family makes their way in America in the 1990s Friends Personal and professional lives of six friends in New York Outnumbered A couple raises three young children The Young Offenders Two lovable rogues from Cork, Conor and Jock Veep Selina Meyer is Vice President of the United States Will & Grace Will and Grace live in an apartment in New York City

Learn & discover

Sports

Dónal Lunny – Línte Ceoil Cheiltigh Examining close musical ties between Ireland and Scotland Drain the Oceans Draining the Pacific provides insight on natural disasters Great Lighthouses of Ireland The story of Irish lighthouses and their great importance Grow, Cook, Eat Insight into growing your own food Mars: Inside SpaceX The real story of the people trying to get to Mars Slow TV Time lapse of a beautiful walled garden The Irish Revolution The story of the Irish War of Independence The Shelbourne A closer look at Dublin’s Shelbourne hotel Whiskey Business The Teeling brothers prolong family tradition Wolves in the South of France A look at wolves in Ventoux in the South of France

Epic Trails Brave challengers explore the worlds toughest trails Football’s Greatest Stage The story of Pelé taking the World Cup by storm at 17 Sports Stars Uncovered The biggest names in sport as you’ve never seen them before The Fighter Ten MMA contenders strive to stay in the sport The Truth About… The history of tennis, badminton and squash Up Close With Lionel Messi provides insight about what motivates him

Music & arts Cultureshock A documentary about Michael Jackson’s death Les Misérables: The History of the World’s Greatest Story Delving into the history behind Les Misérables Sam Smith Biggest Weekend 2018 Multi-platinum-selling Sam Smith Smart Secrets of Great Paintings A closer look at Johannes Vermeer’s The Astronomer.

Van Morrison Live at Eden Session Van Morrison live at Eden Session Virago Women Revolutionary women in Ireland

Real life Bear Grylls: Breaking Point Bear Grylls helps two people overcome their fears Dermot’s Secret Garden Dermot restores a garden located by Slieve Bloom Hollywood News Feed Providing unique insight into Hollywoods red carpet How to Win at Everything A closer look at how to solve a Rubik’s cube Jackie Chan’s Green Heroes Jackie Chan teams up with Arthur Huang Powerscourt: The Jewel in Ireland’s Crown An in-depth look at the beautiful Irish estate Room to Improve Dermot gives a 1960s suburban house a facelift The Healthy Food Guide A guide on how to lead a healthier lifestyle Top Tables, Top Cities The beautiful city of Lisbon Tracks & Trails Ross Lewis explores beautiful Killiney

Viral Cal Arnold The latest clips from the Irish YouTube sensation Chloe Boucher Fashion, style and make-up advice from Chloe Boucher Diane Jennings Quirky videos from Irish YouTuber Diane Jennings Emzotic Informative videos from a former zookeeper Kristen Hanby Videos from English prankster Kristen Hanby Tom Scott An exciting show with British entertainer Tom Scott

Well being Ageless Gardens Using gardening as therapy for the body and mind Chasing Sleep A ground breaking medical series examining sleeping habits Taking Back the Years A journey through different methods of anti-aging Tingting ASMR ASMR videos to help you relax and sleep Travel Insider Handy tips and tricks for fliers Yoga For Men Richard Herrera shows men how to get their yoga on

Wish you were here Beaches that will Blow your Mind A look at some of the most spectacular beaches in the world How to see New York’s Waterfront for $3 How to get a different view of New York’s famous waterfront Introducing Amsterdam Exploring Amsterdam, things to do there and when to visit Learn to Fight Like a Gladiator in Rome An opportunity to learn about gladiatorial combat The Best of Irish Cities We take a tour through Belfast, Cork, Galway and Dublin Where to Celebrate Pride in Europe The best places in Europe to join the LGBTIQ party

Fรกilte Approved

Pub

130

INFLIGHT

Binge watching

Sharp Objects Season 1 R Based on the 2006 debut novel by Gillian Flynn, this mini-series tells the story of a self-loathing, alcoholic journalist’s quest to investigate a murder in her hometown while battling her own personal demons. Starring five-time Oscar nominee Amy Adams, who shines as its complex anti-heroine.

Because there’s no better time for a binge watch. Take a look at our latest boxsets.

Blindspot Season 3

PG13

The 100 Season 5

PG13

An unidentified woman with amnesia is found covered with tattoos, and the FBI soon realise that each one is a crime to solve, creating a map that leads to the truth about her identity and mysteries yet to be revealed.

In the apocalyptic drama, ‘The 100’, Clarke (Eliza Taylor) and her friends must risk everything to fight one last battle for survival, only to glimpse an even darker threat to the last living valley on earth.

Gotham Season 4

The Walking Dead Season 8 R

PG13

Season four of ‘Gotham’ recommences with Jim Gordan and Harvey Bullock at the forefront of the fight against the unhinged villains, until a certain Bruce Wayne steps into the fold as potential protector and champion of the city.

House Season 8

PG13

In this season, after deciding basic survival is not enough, Nick initiates ‘All Out War’ against Negen and his forces, in an attempt to take back their freedom.

Vikings Season 5

R

Final season of a smash hit medical series. Played by Golden Globe-winner Hugh Laurie, our protagonist is an antisocial maverick doctor does whatever it takes to solve puzzling cases using his crack team of doctors and his wits.

With Ivar the Boneless asserting his leadership over the Great Heathen Army, season five develops into an engrossing tale of startling alliances and unbelieavble betrayal as the struggle for power continues.

Peaky Blinders Season 3 & 4 R

Westworld Season 1

The third season starts with the long-anticipated wedding of Tommy Shelby (Cillian Murphy).

But he is caught in a dangerous web of international intrigue as he battles with forces that threaten to split his family apart.

R

‘Westworld’ is an exclusive futuristic theme park which allows those who can afford a ticket an opportunity to live out their fantasies through artificial intelligence, an overindulgence which results in chaos for all involved.

SION

SWITZERLAND 7th – 10th OF AUGUST 2019

THE CHIEFTAINS, CARLOS NUNEZ, KILA, ELEPHANT SESSIONS, FOUR MEN AND A DOG AND MANY MORE. g u i n n e s s f e s t i va l . c h

132

INFLIGHT

Audio Relax to your favourite tunes, make a playlist or delve into a new podcast.

Classical

Kidzone

The Blue of the Night RTÉ lyric fm Sound Out RTÉ Lyric fm

CAKE Culture and Arts for Kids and Everyone

Easy listening An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels

Indie Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

Irish Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists Sinéad ar Bord Traditional and contemporary tracks in the Irish language

Pop Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs Million Sellers Michael Cahill’s Million Sellers, RTÉ Gold The Eoghan McDermott Show, RTÉ 2FM Thowback Mix Brian Maher, 98FM Late Date RTÉ Radio 1’s Late Date with Cathal Murray

Rock Marty Miller Radio Nova

Talk Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One We offer two documentaries on this flight. The first is on the lost Irish tour of Johnny Cash from 1963. The second, on the tragic story of Peggy McCarthy who suffered greatly at the hands of church and state.

Damien Dempsey This fusion of hiphop, reggae, pop and spoken word is unmistakably Damo.

The Dubliner’s latest album, ‘Union’, is a collection of duets featuring distinguished vocalists such as Imelda May, John Grant and Kate Tempest.

Discover new tracks and revisit some classics with a twist.

What a gig these collaborations would make!

Olly Murs Over eight years since cheeky chappy Olly Murs rose to ‘X-Factor’ stardom, he’s back with his excellent new album titled ‘You Know I Know’. One of the UK's most successful artists in the last decade, Murs doesn't disappoint with this album that’s both current and memorable.

Podcast Podcast: Erin’s Isle Matchmaking and Magic Keeping Heritage Alive Ageless Arts Life’s a Beach The Butter Museum and ‘Game of Thrones’

Podcast: Erin’s Isle Featuring a series of podcasts about Ireland. Learn about the ageless crafts of Ireland and meet its lovely people.

INFLIGHT

133

The Chainsmokers Award-winning DJ/ producer duo The Chainsmokers presents their more introspective, thoughtful and emotional side on the ten-track sophomore record ‘Sick Boy’.

Highlights include ‘Side Effects’, which features frequent collaborator Emily Warren and is the deep soul of the album and the soft ‘Somebody’ that tells their refreshingly honest stories.

All-time favourites

Country

Jazz

Pop

KidZone

Bob Dylan Blood on the Tracks

Pistol Annies Interstate Gospel Dixie Chicks DCX MMXVI (Live) Dolly Parton Dumplin’ (Original Motion Picture Soundtrack) Dolly Parton White Limozeen Kane Brown Experiment Loretta Lynn Wouldn’t it Be Great

Charles Mingus Columbia Jazz Profile Chet Baker She Was Too Good To Me Duke Ellington & His Famous Orchestra And His Mother Called Him Bill Miles Davis Cool Miles Davis Thelonious Monk Criss Cross (Expanded Edition) Various Artists Classic Branford Marsalis

Little Mix LM5 Noah Cyrus Good Cry Olly Murs You Know I Know Pentatonix PTX Presents: Top Pop, Vo I Sigala Brighter Days Zayn Icarus Falls

Charles Grean Songs from Walt Disney’s ‘Jungle Book’ Spongebob Squarepants Spongebob’s Greatest Hits The Backyardigans The Backyardigans The Make Believe Players Little Red Riding Hood And Other Best-Loved Fairytales The Tootlepipers Shirley Temple In Walt Disney’s ’Bambi’ Various Artists The Wacky World of Mother Goose

Bill Withers +'Justments Dean Martin The Hit Sound of Dean Martin Elvis Presley Elvis At Sun Leonard Cohen Songs of Love and Hate Mariah Carey Mariah Carey

Alternative Amy SharkLove Monster Arcade Fire Neon Bible First Aid Kit Tender Offerings Kasabian Empire The Neighbourhood The Neighbourhood Winnetka Bowling League Winnetka Bowling League

Classical The Piano Guys Limitless Igor Levit Life Lang Lang Piano Magic Michael Sanderling Beethoven: Symphony No 9 & Shostakovich: Symphony No 13 Sol Gabetta Schumann Vivica Genaux Hommage à Vivaldi

Electro Ayokay In the Shape of a Dream Groove Armada Groove Armada Greatest Hits LCD Soundsystem American Dream Lost Frequencies Less Is More (Deluxe) Saint Etienne Smash The System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Sick Boy

Irish Celtic Thunder Inspirational Damien Dempsey Union Kodaline Politics of Living The Script The Script Triona Warrior Van Morrison The Healing Game

Metal Arch Enemy Will To Power At The Gates To Drink from the Night Itself Krisiun Scourge Of The Enthroned Ozzy Osbourne No More Tears In Flames Come Clarity Unearth Extinction(S)

Opera Anita Rachvelishvili Anita Christian Gerhaher Frage Howard Arman Rossini: Stabat Mater Nuria Rial, Maurice Steger Baroque Twitter Pretty Yende Dreams Regula Mühlemann Cleopatra – Baroque Arias

R ’n’ B Brockhampton Iridescence Childish Gambino Summer Pack H.E.R. I Used to Know Her: Part 2 Khalid Suncity Nao Saturn Tinashe Joyride

Rock Bruce Springsteen Springsteen on Broadway Nothing But Thieves What Did You Think When You Made Me This Way? Paul Simon In the Blue Light The Unlikely Candidates Danger To Myself The Vaccines Combat Sports Velvet Revolver Contrabandts

A warm welcome on board today Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight.

TRAVELLERS’ CHOICE FOR BUSINESS CLASS

GO ON AN IRISH HISTORICAL ADVENTURE YOU’LL NEVER FORGET!

DUBLIN’S BEST VISITOR EXPERIENCE

★ 7 HISTORICAL SCENES ★ LIVE ACTORS ★ SPECIAL EFFECTS ★ SHOWS START EVERY 15 MINUTES ★ WALKTHROUGH EXPERIENCE IRISH TIMES

“IT IS REALLY QUITE BRILLIANT!” BOOK NOW AT WWW.VAULTS.LIVE AND SAVE UP TO 20%

See the city like a local.

The DoDublin Card includes : • • • • • •

Direct Airlink Transfer Hop on Hop off City Tour Dublin Bus Travel FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum Entry 3 Day Card for €35

Buy Tickets at : Bus & Travel Information Desk (T1 Arrivals Hall) or Airlink Bus Stop (T1 & T2)

Dublin’s Best Sightseeing & Travel Pass

Airlink Express Hop on Hop off Dublin Bus

dodublin.ie

136

INFLIGHT

Your comfort and safety Your comfort and safety is our number one priority at all times. Our crew are on hand to look after you and any requirements you may having during your flight.

We do ask that we have your attention during our safety announcements.

Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

We ask for your attention during the safety demonstration by our cabin crew before take-off. We also recommend that you familiarise yourself with the safety card in the seat pocket in front of you.

We have a strict no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

You cannot smoke in any part of the cabin.

General safety tips for your flight today • Do pay attention to any instructions given to you by our cabin crew.

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• It is illegal to consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest, including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique.

• Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

Guest with wheelchair requirements

Assistance contact details

• Any behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

If you or a guest you’re flying with requires a wheelchair to reach or depart the plane, we’re here to help.

specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Use of photography on board today

Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays

• You’re very welcome to take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

Simply get in touch with us at least 48 hours in advance of your trip, let us know your booking reference number and we’ll take care of this for you.

UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

However: • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

Open daily Book a day trip from Dublin with Railtours Ireland

“It’s crystal clear”

A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects

On social media:

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal”

Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items

www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com Phone: +353 (0) 51 317000

For over 175 years everyone has enjoyed a warm Irish Welcome in The Temple Bar. Lovers of whiskey have enjoyed Irelands largest whiskey collection, complimented with live Irish music sessions daily at the friendliest spot in Dublin.

2w0in1ne7r

138

INFLIGHT

Your comfort and safety Your portable electronic devices You’re very welcome to use portable electronic equipment on this flight, but to help keep you safe we ask that you follow our guidelines below.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, minidisk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys.

For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before take-off. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Switch your device to flight mode or the flight safe setting during taxi, take-off and landing.

If you’d like to use your phone during your flight, switch it to flight safe mode. If your device doesn’t have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing, when the cabin crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are welcome to use your phone – provided it’s within easy reach. It’s important that you stay seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew when we land.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

The full range is available from stockists including

Arnotts, Blarney Woollen Mills, Brown Thomas, House of Fraser, House of Ireland & The Kilkenny Shop

waterfordvisitorcentre.com waterford.eu

140

INFLIGHT

Flight connections Dublin and London Heathrow Airport Flight connections at Dublin Airport

Flight connections at T2 London Heathrow On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

YES

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

NO

Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’.

After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

All other destinations

USA

Follow signs for US Preclearance

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes.

If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Where are you flying to today?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

Passport Control and Security Screening

Geataí Gates

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations.

Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

101-335

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Gate Information Screens

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

Departure gate Enjoy free Wi-Fi in Dublin Airport

Historic O’Neill’s Pub & Kitchen

FAMOUS MOLLY MALONE STATUE OPPOSITE O’NEILL’S O’’NEILL

Conveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

• Traditional Irish Music and Dancers 7 nights-a-week, No Charge • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts • HD TV Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games

• Heated Roof Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area with TV Screens so you wont miss the winning goal • Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DAWSON STREET DUBLIN 2

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

MARCO PIERRE WHITE COURTYARD BAR & GRILL Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland

Opposing fans enjoying the game on one of O’Neill’s big screens

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656. www.oneillspubdublin.com

DONNYBROOK DUBLIN 4

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm / Fri: 8.00am-12.30am / Sat: 8.00am-12.30am / Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm

www.marcopierrewhite.ie Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

✹▲❙❙ ❋ ✫❙

142

INFLIGHT

Explore the world with us

Anchorage Juneau

Ketchikan

Edmonton Saskatoon Vanc Bel

Victoria

Seattle

Calgary

Portland

Regina

Eugene

Winnipeg

Vancouver Bellingham

Victoria

Wenatchee

Seattle

Thunder Bay

Kalispell Spokane Pullman

Pasco

Great Falls Belgrade

Portland

Sacramento

San Jose

Ottawa Traverse

Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Omaha

Reno

Kansas City

Oakland Fresno

Fort Wayne Akron Canton

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Oklahoma City

Tucson

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

San Antonio

Houston

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis

New York JFK

Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

Philadelphia

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Charlotte Columbia

Charleston

El Paso Austin

Newark

Boston Hyannis

Washington (National)

Lexington

Little Rock Phoenix

Providence

Washington (Dulles)

Nashville

Tulsa

Hartford Pittsburgh

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore Cincinnati

Portland ME

Albany

Rochester

Dayton

Indianapolis

Springfield Las Vegas

Buffalo

Cleveland

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Syracuse

Detroit

St Louis

Halifax

Burlington

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Chicago

Des Moines

Denver

Moncton Fredericton

Montreal

Billings

Medford

Santa Rosa

Duluth

Minneapolis–St Paul

Redmond Eugene

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Walla Walla

Yakima

Missoula

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Honolulu Kahului

Key West

Honolulu Kahului

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

INFLIGHT

We fly to more than 100 destinations across the US, Canada, Europe, the UK and Ireland. We’ve also got a great partnerships with JetBlue, British Airways and many more airlines to connect you to even more destinations. Where’s next on your travel wishlist?

143

Save time with US Preclearance You’ll clear US immigration in Dublin or Shannon Airport before you board your flight with us to the US. That means arriving in the US as a domestic passenger and avoiding those immigration queues.

Aer Lingus European and North American network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated

by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

London London City London Southend Heathrow

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg Amsterdam

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Southampton

Berlin

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante Murcia Malaga

Athens Catania

Faro

Tenerife Tenerife

Lanzarote Lanzarote Fuerteventura Fuerteventura

Gran Canaria Gran Canaria

Route map correct at time of print.

Izmir

144

INFLIGHT

Connections to Middle East & Australasia

Dublin

London Heathrow

Dubai Abu Dhabi

Sydney

Melbourne

You can book flights from Dublin to the Middle East and Australia at aerlingus.com with our codeshare partners, British Airways and Etihad Airways.

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

146

INFLIGHT

Let’s get you connected Keep chatting, sharing and discovering Connect to our inflight Wi-Fi 1 Turn on your device and connect to Aer_Lingus_WiFi on our A330 aircraft

2 Launch your browser, click ’Buy Internet Access’ and purchase a plan Choose from the following plans

AerSocial €6.95 | $7.95 Up to 50MB

AerSurf €13.95 | $15.95 Up to 120MB The smart choice

AerMax €29.95 | $32.95 Up to 270MB

3 Enter a username and password and start browsing A330 aircraft only.

Connect to our Mobile Network 1 Turn on your device and switch off flight-safe mode If the Aeromobile Network doesn’t connect straight away, select it via your Network settings

2 Once you’re connected, you’ll receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

PREMIER SUITES - Bringing home a little closer PREMIER SUITES offer a wonderful alternative to traditional hotel accommodation. Guests can maintain the independence they enjoy at home in the spacious surroundings of their own living quarters. With 15 city centre locations across Europe, you can stay for business or pleasure, for a night or a year. Check in as a guest, leave as a local.

www.premiersuitesueurope.com

Antwerp | Birmingham | Bristol | Dublin | Glasgow | Liverpool Manchester | Newcastle | Nottingham | Reading | Rotterdam

Welcome to your world -class airline We’re so proud of our 4-star Skytrax rating. Being celebrated on the world stage for our consistent quality and excellence in guest experience never gets old. We hope you enjoy your ight with us today.

150

BOUTIQUE

TOP PICKS Our springtime selection of washbag musthaves from this season’s Boutique magazine.

PESTLE & MORTAR RECOVER EYE CREAM €34 This lightweight cream nourishes the eye area as well as helping to reduce dark circles and puffiness – a must for the tired traveller.

BOSS ORANGE WOMAN EAU DE TOILETTE €20 Put some spring in your step with notes of zingy apple combined with warm vanilla and sandalwood.

MAX BENJAMIN AMALFI TRAVEL CANDLES €20 Let your senses travel to the beautiful Italian coastline, with these scented candles summoning citrus fruits, wild flowers and sea air.

INSTANT EFFECTS INSTANT EYE LIFT €23 Say goodbye to dark circles and look like you’ve had a full night’s sleep with this 15-minute miracle maker.

BENEFIT ROLLER LASH & LINER €37 For on-the-go eye looks, this travel duo has you covered – and fluttering your lashes in no time.

DUBLIN EXCLUSIVE

Cocktails from ¤7.95

GLENDALOUGH POITÍN € 6.95 Poitín is Ireland's historic predecessor to whiskey.

It can be traced as far back as 584AD in the monastic settlements of Glendalough.

Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 HARDROCK.COM

E R ’ U YO

N O C A ZY! B A Me CR

Bacon Crusted Ribs

Fleet Street • Stephen’s Green • Blanchardstown Dundrum • Swords • Liffey Valley

152

A FINE VINTAGE

JUST THE TICKET Dusting off the Aer Lingus archives to offer fascinating and frequently glamorous glimpses into a bygone age of Irish aviation.

T

he next time you’re at an Aer Lingus Express Bag Drop or scanning a boarding pass on your phone, think of this endearing image of a ticket sales counter in the old terminal at Dublin Airport. The Check In desk is pictured on the far left – complete with manual weighing scales for luggage – while a steward on the far right is seen mid-announcement.

While we don’t have details of the precise

date of this rather glamorous photo, judging by promotional material in the background (TWA, BOAC and the Viscount aircraft), it will have been taken in the mid-1950s, pre-dating the start of Aer Lingus’ gamechanging transatlantic service.

These days we’re used to seeing business travellers in smart attire, sartorially prepared for conferences and meetings at their destinations. But during this

period, suits were standard for men of all backgrounds, whether they were going to Mass or a football match. This was also a time of dressing up, not down, for flights, with comfort taking a back seat to glamour, prestige and a sense of occasion.

While this scene certainly looks elegant, we’re still glad for the modern conveniences of the Express Bag Drop and electronic boarding passes!

A WORLD OF POSSIBILITIES Through our exclusive partnership with Aer Lingus, the only limit to how far you can explore is your own imagination. Select a car from over 5,000 locations worldwide and experience our renowned levels of quality and service. Plus, when you join Avis Preferred, you can take advantage of exclusive member benefits like priority service at the counter, free upgrades and 1,000 Avios on your first rental.* If you’re an AerClub member, you can also collect 3 Avios per €1 spent, with a minimum of 500 Avios being awarded every time you rent.* R E I M A G I N E W H AT ’ S P O S S I B L E .

W W W.C A R S . A E R L I N G U S .CO M

*Terms and conditions apply. For full details, visit www.cars.aerlingus.com

150 years of history in the making.

Passed on by generations from our family to yours.

Since founding the business 150 years ago, Thomas Weir began his legacy to create the finest jewellery. Today, Weir & Sons is still dedicated to helping craft precious family memories to be treasured from one generation to the next. www.weir.ie