April/May 2016 CARA Magazine April/May 2016
Happy Birthday Aer Lingus!
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
Camille O’Sullivan
Ireland’s Ancient East 2
Los Angeles
Istria
New York
s r a e y 0 8 Montpellier
Chicago
Family Friendly Cities
e h t d n Arou wor ld in
WELCOME TO IRELAND FROM AIB CORPORATE BANKING
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Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219
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CONTENTS APRIL/MAY 2016
78
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Istrian Idylls
08 ARRIVALS We welcome new arrivals at Dublin’s Terminal 2 11
CHECK IN What’s hot and happening this season
22 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK With Sky Sports’ Rachel Wyse 24 WEEKENDER Laura George finds Amsterdam blooming lovely 26 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s books, podcasts and events edit 28 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins traverses Toronto 30 FOOD FOR THE SOUL Aoife Carrigy tucks in to this year’s Ballymaloe Litfest 32
RACING ACES Donn McClean saddles up for this season’s Irish and UK equestrian highlights
34 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO PARIS Rory Mulholland’s lesser spotted sights
42
Aer Lingus Anniversary
Features 36 FINELY TUNED Ed Power meets chanteuse Camille O’Sullivan 42 HIGH & MIGHTY Ingmar Kiang goes behind the scenes of the octogenarian that is Aer Lingus 50 EASTERN PROMISE Part two of Pól Ó Conghaile’s Ireland’s Ancient East recce
60
60 ANGELENO DELIGHT Krista Simmons feasts on LA’s food scene 78
CAUGHT IN THE IDYLL Istria’s secret beaches are a magnet for Isabel Putinja
88 UNDERGROUND, OVERGROUND Lucy White prowls multifaceted New York
50 Rock Steady
LA Noshing
Regulars
Business
70
109 BUSINESS & LIFE Lori Rackl on work and play in Chicago
YOU SAY, WE SAY Our edit of your best gardens
98 5 FAMILY CITIES Lizzie Gore-Grimes’ kid-friendly spots
116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Nikki Lannen, CEO of WarDucks
106 48 HOURS IN MONTPELLIER Conor Power’s French fancies
118 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes on the hippest hotels, gizmos and exec events
125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Inflight news and entertainment
120 SLEEPS & EATS Lauren Heskin sees what’s sprouting in Brussels
152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Ian Marshall tackles Mallorca on two wheels
122 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Pamela Quinn of Kuehne + Nagel’s pearls of working wisdom
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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Junior Editor Lauren Heskin Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Aoife Carrigy, Eleanor Costello, Laura George, Lizzie Gore-Grimes, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Ingmar Kiang, Donn McClean, Rory Mulholland, Pól Ó Conghaile, Conor Power, Isabel Putinija, Lori Rackl
Krista Simmons is a food and travel writer and native Los Angeleno. Work has taken her around the globe – from coffee plantations in Northern Thailand to harvesting honey in South Australia – but for Cara, she extols LA’s culinary virtues; see page 60. She met the photographer for the story, Kristen Teig, in a coffee shop in Kyoto, and was thrilled that the kismet of their meeting turned into this feature about her hometown. You can follow her adventures on Instagram @kristasimmons.
ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Deirdre Purcell, +353 (0)1 271 9615; deirdre.purcell@image.ie Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Assistant Accountant Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards
Ed Power has contributed to The Daily Telegraph, The Sunday Times, Slate, The Guardian, The Boston Globe, FHM, The Quietus and other publications, both Irish and international. He writes mostly about music, TV and cinema and has interviewed stars such as Adele, Lady Gaga and the cast of Game of Thrones, wearing full costume (them, not him). In this issue he speaks to fellow Cork native, and powerhouse vocalist, Camille O’Sullivan, page 36.
Editorial Director Jessie Collins Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Patrick Dillon Malone Directors Laura George, Robert Power, Gina Traynor, Raymond Reihill, Sam Power
Illustrator Jennifer Farley is originally from Dublin but now lives in the wilds of Westmeath. As well as creating commercial pieces and illustrating children’s books, her work has been exhibited in Dublin, Belfast, London and New York – and she’s currently working on a big book of maps. Our front cover is Jennifer’s first Cara commission, and she’s beyond thrilled to be involved in the celebration of Aer Lingus’ 80th anniversary. Laughing-Lion-Design.com
PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.
April/May 2016
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie IMAGE Publications Ltd PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014
ON THE COVER
therld in Around wo
80 years
Illustration by Jennifer Farley, commissioned exclusively for Cara magazine.
Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free ay aw e zin ga ma s thi take ey. rn jou rd wa on for your e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine
CARA Magazine April/May 2016
WELCOME ABOARD
Aer Lingus chief executive officer, Stephen Kavanagh, invites you to celebrate the airline’s 80th year in a special 80th anniversary edition of Cara magazine.
A
Chara, welcome on-board and thank you for choosing to fly with Aer Lingus today. 2016 is the year in which Aer Lingus will celebrate 80 years of service and of connecting Ireland to the world. Since 1936, many thousands of Aer Lingus employees have been proud to serve many millions of customers. We enter this year as a profitable and growing airline committed to continuing this proud tradition of service. 2016 will be a year of investment for Aer Lingus as we continue to invest in our people, processes, aircraft, technology and service standards in order to expand
Within a few weeks of Aer Lingus’ inaugural flight in May, a summer service to the Isle of Man begins. In September, the network is extended to London (Croydon Airport) using a newlyacquired De Havilland DH86.
our network and schedule, and in order to improve the customer experience on the ground and in the air. Three new long-haul aircraft will join the Aer Lingus fleet in order to commence routes from Dublin to Los Angeles, Newark and Hartford in 2016. Pisa and Murcia will join an already extensive network of European destinations, and co-operation with our fellow airlines within the International Airlines Group will offer global connectivity. Our new mobile app and self-service baggage check-in options will improve convenience and our new loyalty programme, Aer Club, will truly reward your custom. Aer Lingus is committed to delivering a quality service to you at a competitive price and we will continue to build a better airline experience for you. Our delivery upon this commitment will, I hope, create the opportunity for us to serve you for many years to come. We are proud of our 80 year history of connecting Ireland to the world and we thank you for your continued support and custom. Stephen Kavanagh Chief Executive Officer, Aer Lingus Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus
Paris added to the network, becoming the first Continental European city to be served by Aer Lingus.
Aerlinte Eireann, originally formed in 1947, launches its first transatlantic service on April 28, connecting Dublin and Shannon to New York.
Pope John Paul II flies from Rome to Dublin and later from Shannon to Boston on an Aer Lingus plane that has been specially chartered for him.
THE EAGLE HAS LANDED May 27, 1936 marked the first Aer Lingus flight. At 9am, EI-ABI took off from Baldonnel, Dublin to Bristol with only five passengers aboard the Iolar, meaning Eagle in Irish.
JET POWER In 2015, Aer Lingus became a member of IAG (International Airlines Group) – one of the world's largest airline groups.
In an industry first, Aer Lingus partners with US airline, JetBlue Airways, connecting its passengers to over 40 domestic destinations at its US gateway airports, New York JFK and Boston-Logan.
Transatlantic expansion, with new routes from Dublin to LA, Newark and Hartford, Connecticut. Aer Lingus’ transatlantic seat capacity exceeds two million for the first time.
1936 1946 1958 1979 2008 2016 6 |
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W H E R E M O M E N TS A R E T R E A SU R E D
WHO? Gerry-louise Robinson and Harriet Ryan FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco GERRY-LOUISE SAYS … “I’m on a flying visit home to see family and celebrate my birthday, which was last weekend.”
WHO? Doug Locke and Megan Lee Pyle FLYING IN FROM ... Los Angeles via San Francisco MEGAN SAYS … “Our friends are getting married in Kinnitty Castle so we’ll stay for a week and join a literary pub-crawl too.”
WHO? Darcy McCusker FLYING IN FROM ... Seattle, via San Francisco DARCY SAYS … “It’s actually my birthday today so I’ll have a few drinks in town. I’ve to go to a conference but hopefully I’ll fit in a museum over the four days too.”
ARRIVALS
From business travellers to wedding-goers – Cara was at Dublin Airport’s T2 to greet them.
WHO? Niamh Smyth and Stephen Banahan FLYING IN FROM ... Mumbai, via Brussels STEPHEN SAYS … I can’t wait for cool air – I was in a suit at a pharmaceutical plant in 36 degrees for 11 days and barely saw sunlight.
WORDS BY NIAMH WADE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS
WHO? Felix Lang FLYING IN FROM ... Brussels FELIX SAYS … “I’m only here for three days. I have an interview with LinkedIn though, so maybe I’ll get to move here ...”
WHO? Sue Greene and Pieter Rook FLYING IN FROM ... Brussels SUE SAYS … “It’s just a short visit for my niece’s wedding in Glaslough, Co Monaghan.”
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WHO? Eric Truong and Luc Delagnes FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco LUC SAYS … “We were part of an official selection of films screened at the Napa Valley Film Festival and are just in Dublin for a few hours before flying on to Paris.”
WHO? Isabelle Wuytack and Brieuc Materne FLYING IN FROM ... Brussels BRIEUC SAYS … “We have been here many times before so we will probably head to Bray for a visit.”
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BODY POLITIC
SHUAIB ELHASSAN BY RJ MUNA/ALONZO KING LINES BALLET
Notions of identity, migration, mobility and territory are hot topics at this year’s Dublin Dance Festival from May 17-28. Dancers from across the globe will be showcasing their genre-busting works, including the Greek choreographer Patricia Apergi’s Planites, which focuses on the immigrant – the traveller by choice and by force, while shock and trauma are exquisitely explored in Betroffenheit by Canada’s Crystal Pite and Jonathon Young. Elsewhere, world-class step dancers from the US, Ireland and Canada are assembling for the innovative Anam, and Embodied is a series of six new dance solos by female choreographers based in Ireland and performed in Dublin’s GPO as part of the 1916 centenary programme. Last but not least is a two-hander from San Francisco’s cutting-edge Alonzo King LINES Ballet company, pictured, with the challenging Shostakovich set to string quartets and the joyful Rasa set to an original score by Grammywinning Indian tabla ace Zakir Hussain. dublindancefestival.ie
Find out what’s on, where and when in April/May 2016
Check in Compiled by Lauren Heskin, Eoin Higgins and Lucy White.
STAY
4 SEAFRONT HOTELS Enjoy rooms with magnificent views …
Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, Sorrento Nestled
HENRIK KAM, COURTESY SFMOMA
in amongst the tumbling cliffs of Italy’s most famed stretch of coast, expect magnificent vistas of the Mediterranean from every window. Amble through the ancient town of Sorrento, visit the harbour via the private elevator or simply loll in one of the deck chairs that lavish the terrace and lose yourself in the drifting bay ... Rooms from €440. exvitt.it
Portixol Hotel, Palma
This is a coastal gem in the bubbling hub of Palma. With delightful sea views and elegant surroundings, the exclusive hotel also has a gourmet restaurant with a menu that’s almost as appetising as its charmingly lit ambience. Lipsmackingly good cocktails by a pool overlooking the Bay of Palma? Yes please. Rooms from €290. portixol.com
MUSEUM
MEGA MODERNITY Following a three-year hiatus, the Snøhetta re-imagined San Francisco Museum of Modern Art is slated to re-open this May and will be the largest modern and contemporary art museum in the United States. Those lucky enough to have nabbed a ticket will be kicking up their well-connected heels and sneaking a peek at the newly renovated space during the museum’s legendary Modern Ball on May 12. For the rest of us plebs, a limited number of tickets will be available in April to the only-slightly-less-grand Post-Modern Party the same night. sfmoma.org 12 |
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Bellevue, Dubrovnik
Bellevue Hotel is only a short walk from the Medieval city of Dubrovnik yet feels a world away from civilisation. Carved into the precipice of the Dalmatian coast with its own pebble beach, the hotel’s contemporary interiors are glassed in by the cinematic view of Croatia’s crystal clear waters. Rooms from €180. bellevuelosinj.com
STYLE
Some Neck Add an understated swirl of patriotic jubilance to your 1916 Centenary wardrobe with a tri-colour scarf from the independent Irish style sirens at Stable. The luxurious accessories house is offering this stylish add-on as a reflection of its commitment to the best of timehonoured Irish craft traditions and contemporary design. stable.ie
Cap Estel Hotel, Nice
Another Mediterranean oasis, the secluded Cap Estel peninsula boasts panoramic views, a private beach, an infinity pool, luxury accommodation and the privacy expected by its celebrity clientele. Plus, if you get bored – as if! – pleasureseekers can venture to the beguilingly glitzy Monaco, just 30 minutes away. Rooms from €490. capestel.com
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CULTURE
Export Strength
MUSEUM
DIGITAL UNDERGROUND Embracing our emigrant history, Epic Ireland opens in the vaults of Dublin’s chq Building on May 6. Designed by the award-winning creators of Titanic Belfast, the exhibition will be an immersive delve into the story of Irish migration, from the Famine right up to the present day, while celebrating the diaspora connection. It will also be the country’s first entirely digital museum, with interactive galleries and a genealogy centre, so individuals can research their Irish roots. epicirelandchq.com
As the 1916 Centenary continues to be observed not only across Ireland but around the world, cultural evenings, musical events and theatrical reactions are taking place on every continent. London’s Royal Festival Hall hosts Imagining Ireland (April 29; southbankcentre.co.uk), a musical conversation about the Anglo-Irish relationship, with contributions from the likes of James Vincent McMorrow, right, Andy Irvine and Camille O’Sullivan (see our interview with Camille on page 36). Rome’s annual Irish Film Festa (April 7-10; irishfilmfesta.org) is focusing on 1916 this year, with period screenings, historical documentaries and discussions on the rebellion leaders. The US flagship celebration will be a three-week long IRELAND 100 Festival (May 17-June 5; kennedy-center.org) in Washington DC, commemorating a century of Irish history through arts, literature, music and dance.
SPORT MUSIC
All that Jazz The Bray Jazz Festival (April 28 to May 1), one of Ireland’s most accomplished contemporary jazz and improvised music happenings, has its 17th outing this year. Held over the May Bank Holiday weekend, it presents a programme of cool-cat concerts highlighting some of the finest international artists and foremost Irish talent on the jazz spectrum. Tune in to virtuoso pianist Kenny Werner, zone out with one of Sweden’s best-known players, Magnus Öström, and get invigorated by Grammy award-winning West African singer Dobet Gnahoré, left. Mmm ... nice! brayjazz.com
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TWO TRIBES A highlight of the Irish sporting calendar, the Aer Lingus College Football Classic (collegefootballireland.com) returns to Dublin this September 3 as fans witness former national champions, Boston College and Georgia Tech, open their collegiate seasons contest to thrilling effect. More than 18,000 international visitors are confirmed for this year’s event that’s much more than a game, with several business-oriented tie-in events that illustrate the firm ties between Ireland and the US. On August 31, senator George Mitchell is keynote speaker at the Irish Institute Alumni Luncheon; there’s a profile joint faculty symposium ‘University and the Innovation Economy’ on September 1 at Trinity College, and on September 2, the Boston College Chief Executives Club Global Forum at Dublin’s Mansion House welcomes Boston mayor Marty Walsh and keynote speaker, Muthar Kent, CEO and chairman of the Coca-Cola company. Tickets released on April 6 at ticketmaster.ie.
DIASPORA
A DIFFERENT BEAT
"I was part of a traditional greeting ceremony where in the old days they either killed you or let you enter the village. They let me in ..."
Cork-born director of photography Ian D Murphy swapped Ireland for the United Arab Emirates, after having worked on feature films including Gerard Barrett’s Pilgrim Hill, which won the Rising Star Award at 2013’s Irish Film and TV Awards. He studied at Poland’s national film school in Lodz, worked on the Bafta-winning wildlife app Virry, and travels the globe shooting feature films, shorts, commercials and documentaries. Did you leave Ireland because of insatiable wanderlust or economic necessity? I’ve always been an adventurer, and have lived away from home many times, but three years ago I felt I couldn’t progress to the scale of films that I’m interested in. I needed to move to a place with more possibilities. What would bring you back to Ireland for good? I think people need to work together to get the most out of a truly amazing country but for me, regardless of what happens at home, I will need to work in bigger markets to get where I want to go. Where has surprised you the most? Tanna, a volcanic Island in the Pacific. I was part of a traditional greeting ceremony where, in the old days, they either killed you or let you enter the village. Thankfully they let me in and showed themselves to be a beautiful, selfless people. Money, electricity and consumerism aren’t interesting to them, and I was lucky enough to plant a coconut tree in a ceremonial square. I went back last year, and it’s growing strong. Favourite hometown haunts? I try to get back for a few weeks in the summer, and I’ll usually fit in a road trip to somewhere I’ve never visited as well as a bit of cycling. And a pint of Murphy’s with my dad in the Spaniard, Kinsale, is always a treat. Pros/cons of a nomadic life? Just having the chance to interact with people from all over the world is incredible, and the more you see, the more you find how similar we all are – climates, cultures and currencies change but for the most part everyone just wants a happy life, and kindness outweighs everything else. The nomadic lifestyle can wear you down though. Sometimes the highlight is hanging up your clothes somewhere and being in the same bed for more than two nights.
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FOOD
BOTTOMS UP! Those Champagne Charlies in Dubai have long known the thrills and spills of an unlimited boozy brunch, and New York and London are now embracing the concept with gusto. In the latter, Shoreditch’s Urban Coterie (urbancoterie.co.uk), right, is one of the latest hip-spots to introduce a bottomless brunch for £32 including one of three dishes – created by head chef Killian Lynch – washed down with as many mimosas as you can muster. Closer to home, in Dublin’s Ranelagh, The Exchequer Wine Bar (theexchequerwinebar. ie) has introduced an unlimited prosecco brunch every Saturday, noon until 4pm: select one dish and an extra €15 will guarantee a constant stream of bubbles. Naturally, greedy-guts are spoilt for choice in New York – if you like Mexican food with your tequila, try the West Village’s Agave (agaveny.com), which has an unlimited supply of frozen margaritas, mimosas and wine with the choice of 12 egg dishes, all for a more-thanreasonable $29.95.
FOOD
BIG MUSSELS
STAY
Bunk Up High-quality, super-clean, ultra-modern, design-led, funky-fly ... not traditionally the kind of bon mots trotted out to describe dossing down on a shoestring. However, over the past few years the Generator Hostel group have gradually heightened our expectations when it comes to budget bed options all across Europe. Their latest outpost in the massively popular city of Amsterdam doesn’t drop the ball – a powerhouse of good vibes, creative energy and funky furnishings. generatorhostels.com 16 |
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Open up to the sights, sounds, tastes, aromas and fabulous flavours of the 11th Connemara Mussel Festival (April 29 to May 1). Each year Killary Harbour produces up to 2,000 tonnes of ropegrown mussels, a sustainable marine resource that provides local employment for the rural community. The Connemara Mussel Festival celebrates this high quality, natural (and delicious) food over a rambunctious weekend of music, food and great craic. connemaramusselfestival.com s r evidence of Aer Lingu HIGH PRAISE In furthe a Silver te, the airline scooped having impeccable tas in the rs siness Traveller’s Cella Medal at the recent Bu eys” Saint-Joseph “Les Chall Sky Awards 2015 for its inte! Slá first and business class. 2013 red wine served in
ARANS with ATTITUDE
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Breakfast
St John Bread and Wine, London It’s hard to pick one place in London; there are so many wonderful restaurants that I want to go to again and again. But whenever I think of my favourite breakfast, the first thing that springs to mind is the Old Spot bacon sandwich they do here. In keeping with the dining room, the bacon sandwich is pure simplicity. Two huge slabs of grilled sandwich loaf, baked on site; buttered of course. Lots of thick slices of salty, meaty, juicy bacon, and served with their house-made tomato ketchup. It really is perfection. And if you still have space – and you’re there on the weekend – get one of the doughnuts! stjohngroup.uk.com/spitalfields
Lunch
L’Arpège, Paris This is definitely indulgent but it was one of the most memorable lunches I’ve enjoyed in a long time. It’s a lovely, bright, elegant room. Its legendary chef Alain Passard offers several menus – so you can go crazy or keep it reasonable. Several years ago he announced that his menu would heavily feature vegetables grown in his biodynamic farm just outside Paris. There were so many incredible dishes all of which were veggie focused – cabbage vol-au-vent, beet tartare, radish risotto – but my favourite is the black truffle and onion ravioli, in a Jerusalem artichoke consommé. I can still taste it … alain-passard.com
FOOD
FOOD FLIGHT
Before arriving in New York to work as general manager of Momofuku Ssäm Bar five years ago, Dubliner Sara Jimenez served her time working at restaurants in London and her hometown. Here, the well-travelled GM shares her ultimate foodie pit-stop tour.
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Dinner
The Four Horsemen, New York If you come to New York, you have to visit Brooklyn, and if you go to Brooklyn you have to go to the Four Horsemen. An intimate dining room and bar, great music, awesome wine list and amazing menu. Though the menu changes regularly, there are some staples that you shouldn’t miss – the beef tartare could be the best I’ve ever had, fried potatoes and aioli, and there’s always pasta that will inevitably blow my mind. And that’s before I get to the dessert list, which is always a treat. fourhorsemenbk.com
Flagship Stores
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VIENNA “The food at The Guesthouse (theguesthouse.at) is as stylish as the decor, its in-house bakery providing lip-smacking tarts, cakes and cookies. I scoffed mine, smugly, while ensconced in my own private window seat overlooking the Albertina museum. Heaven.” Lucy White, Dublin
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna daily.
FRANKFURT “Getting off the U-Bahn at Dom/Römer stop brings you straight in to the city’s Altstadt (Old Town) district. Mostly rebuilt after WWII, it still provides a refreshing juxtaposition to the rest of skyscraping Frankfurt.” Eoin Higgins, Dublin
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Frankfurt twice daily.
SICILY “After visiting Santa Rosalia’s sanctuary, we ventured a little higher up for the views over the city of Palermo. The stunning vistas and glorious sunshine made for the perfect goodbye to the Sicilian city before we journeyed east to the Ionian coast.” Gavin Hartigan, Galway
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Catania twice weekly from April 30.
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finder
CARA VIEW
LISBON “Getting a shot at the Monument to the Discoveries in Lisbon proved no easy feat last summer. So I decided to make the tourists photographing the monument my subject instead. If you can’t beat ‘em ...” Sigrid Hisada, Ishikawa
You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine and win AerClub points and prizes.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon daily.
SAN FRANCISCO “A stroll down Castro Street is an enlightening experience. From the inlaid pavement plaque tributes to LGBT Civil Rights activists, to the rainbow pedestrian crossing at the 18th Street intersection, there’s a definite sense of walking in the footsteps of giants.” Martin McCann, Dublin
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.
NEW YORK “New York living is perfectly summarised by Brooklyn Industries’ motto: ‘Live, Work, Create.’ Spotted at one of their Manhattan retailers, this bold façade encapsulates all that is great about the city.” Eleanor Costello, Boston
OVER TO YOU
Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York up to three times daily, and from Shannon daily.
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IF I DIDN’T LIVE IN LONDON … I would live in the countryside. My godchild lives in Kilkenny, so I try to go and visit most weeks over the summer when I’m back for work on the GAA, as it’s so close. They live just down the road from Mount Juliet, below, so we spend a lot of time there, chilling out.
IF I COULD FLY ANYWHERE TOMORROW … I would go to Greece. I went there just before the GAA coverage began on Sky Sports, and it’s one of the most beautiful and idyllic places I’ve visited.
“My la te grand fa ther Eric would be a dream travelling comp anion. He was an RAF p ilo t in the Second World War, and then the flight simula t ion manager of Aer Lingus for 30 years. I think he’d have had a few good stories about the skies.”
MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Dubliner RACHEL WYSE is a news anchor at Sky Sports, where she also presents Gaelic games. Off camera she’s a keen equestrian, having competed for Ireland in international show jumping. Here she tells Eleanor Costello where she likes to go for work and play.
UPCOMING TRAVEL PLANS INCLUDE … Monaco in May for the Grand Prix, where I’ll be hosting some VIP clients for my management company Paragon. And then my usual summer holidays somewhere in Europe with friends. We went to Bodrum in Turkey last year and I’d love to go back, so it’s a busy few months travelling for me.
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MY IDEA OF HOLIDAY HEAVEN IS … Usually sun-based, and if I was trekking somewhere off the beaten track on horseback I’d be very happy.
“My luxury item to take to a desert island would be the new family puppy, Rudi. She’s a golden re triever and would keep me amused for hours on end!”
MY SUMMER HOLIDAYS WERE MOSTLY SPENT … Travelling around Ireland to show-jumping events and, later, around Europe. Captain Con Power coached me, and I became good friends with his daughter Elizabeth, who now events for Ireland. I was at my happiest in the truck on the way to a show with friends.
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GO SMART | AMSTERDAM
Dam Fine Stay
Hipsters and high culture aren’t the only things blooming in Amsterdam, finds Laura George. hen great swathes of bulbs create rivers of saturated colour throughout Amsterdam, they announce the arrival of sunnier times ahead. Everywhere, winter greys and browns are tempered by spectacular primary drifts and spot colour. A walk through the city on the way to the Rijksmuseum or the Van Gogh Museum takes you past plenty of eye candy but the mother lode is to be found at the Hortus Botanicus (Plantage Middenlaan 2a). One of the oldest botanical gardens in Europe (1638), it’s good for way more than bulbs, of course. That said, true aficionados will catch a bus out of town to the Keukenhof Gardens, which attracts 800,000 visitors in April and May and is re-designed to wow every year. It’s easy to make a whole day of it, renting a bike there to cycle through the flower-filled fields (no hills!) on one of the many 5-25km trails. Back in town, ditch the bike idea unless you’re incredibly brave and can keep up with the whizzing, helmet-free local cyclists and instead retreat to the city’s shiny new Hoxton hotel in the heart of happening Herengracht. Like its slightly older Shoreditch and
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17th-century church in the former home of a Catholic merchant. Between this and the Anne Frank House (don’t even attempt a visit unless it’s first thing in the morning or just before closing, unless you love a good queue), you’d be forgiven for thinking every attic in Amsterdam has a major HEADLINE hidden secret. The Tulip Museum Chances are if it’s (Prinsengracht 116) nearby is warm enough for tulips, primarily a shop masquerading it’s warm enough to Holborn cousins, this is as an exhibition but has a contemplate drinking a city-centre hotel thick good breadth of varieties to and dining al fresco. with well-to-do hipsters. In take home as souvenirs, and The waterside EYE Film the open-plan lounge and specimen amaryllis too. Institute is the ideal spot restaurant, everyone seems amsterdamtulipmuseum. to do either, with views to have their laptops open com over the harbour as well but chat trumps keyboard as state-of-the-art cinemas. tapping. Rooms have historic Alternatively, start at the Hortus bones – dark panelling, soaring Botanicus and head via the striking, ceilings and windows overlooking Fair play – guest rooms, above, at interactive Science Centre NEMO one of two canals between which the Hoxton range to Hannekes Boom for craft beers, this former mayoral mansion sits. from, in their own live music and barbecue. The area’s Nine Streets contain words, ‘Shoebox’ the city’s most concentrated edit to ‘Roomy’. of design and antique shops, coffee The Hoxton, Herengracht 255, +31 20 888 bars, restaurants and boutiques. 5555; thehoxton.com. ‘Shoebox’ rooms After you’ve had your fill of retail from €95. and caffeine, venture into the Red Light District to visit Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder or Our Lord in Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam four times daily, and from Cork twice daily. the Attic, a cleverly concealed,
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SHELF LIFE
Bridget Hourican selects some literary treats to look out for, listen to, and attend. MAGNUM CYCLING
BY GUY ANDREWS (THAMES & HUDSON, FROM APRIL 25, £32)
A cycle race can happen anywhere – in the street outside your house, or the mountains where you holiday. “The race is always a journey, combining the romance and adventure of a road trip with all the sporting drama of a cup final,” writes Guy Andrews in his introduction to this archive of Magnum photos of some of the world’s greatest cycle races, from the Tour de France in 1939 to the Atlanta Paralympics in 1996, via a Belgian cyclocross race and a six-day meet in Paris. The tome features work by legendary photographers Robert Capa and Henri Cartier-Bresson, as well as more recent masters, including images of the 1982 Tour de France by Belgian snapper Harry Gruyaert, left.
FICTION SOLAR BONES by Mike McCormack (Tramp Press, from May 5, €15) Marcus is a civil engineer living with his wife just outside Westport; his artist daughter paints in her own blood and his son is growing a beard while travelling Australia. The Celtic Tiger is winding down, the city water is contaminated and the local TD is pressurising Marcus to sign-off on a dodgy construction project. A poised and darkly humorous monologue on the way we live now.
MEMOIR FROM MANHATTAN TO WEST
CORK: ALICE’S ADVENTURES IN IRELAND by Alice Carey (Collins Press, €14.99, from April 25) In the early 1990s, Irish-American writer Alice Carey and her husband bought a Georgian ruin in West Cork. This is her bittersweet account of her former life as a Manhattanite and style icon, and the vicissitudes of doing up a West Cork ruin when you can’t drive, dislike radiators and never leave home without lipstick.
TRUE CRIME RIO DE JANEIRO: EXTREME CITY by Luiz Eduardo Soares (Allen Lane, from May 5, £20) In time for the 2016 Olympics, this is a portrait of Brazil’s great city by the sociologist, former government minister and award-winning author of Elite Squad. Soares brings journalistic flair, scholarly rigour, a thriller’s pace and personal experience to these accounts of drug trafficking, police corruption, racism, gangsters, migrant workers, beaches and fiestas.
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Hip Hip for Hay From May 26 to June 5, the world’s literati – plus an army of performers – descend on the Welsh town of Hay-on-Wye for the festival Bill Clinton described as “Woodstock for the mind”. Expect Nobel Laureate Svetlana Alexievich, Man Booker winner Marlon James (A Brief History of Seven Killings), novelists Jeanette Winterson and Peter Carey, the UN’s Christiana Figueres and Suzanne Vega dusting off her hits. hayfestival.com
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PODCAST SELECTED SHORTS This podcast series invites actors from stage and screen to read short stories, old and new. It’s recorded live every week at New York’s Peter Jay Sharp Theatre at Symphony Space (Broadway and 95th Street). We loved Family Values (January 6), with actor Tandy Cronyn reading Patricia Highsmith’s The Door is Always Open and the Welcome Mat is Out. Upcoming events include Helen Oyeyemi and Kelly Link (April 20) and A Surprising Night of Shorts! (May 25), where anything might happen. Be part of the live audience if you’re in New York, or listen to the podcast at selectedshorts.org
GO SMART | TORONTO
5
... to visit Toronto. Eoin Higgins falls for an awesome landmark and the local brew.
KIDDING AROUND Between Legoland and Canada’s Wonderland, Toronto is a Shangri-La for tykes big and small. The former, a lovely little land – comprised mostly of the famous Danish bricks – is best suited to the younger end of the scale, while the latter amusement park is probably best for courageous teens and older thrillseekers who probably should know better. legolanddiscoverycentre. ca; canadaswonderland. com
LOVE BLOOMS Late April/early May sees Torontonians participate in the annual Japanese tradition of Sakura Hanami (roughly translated as “cherry blossom flower viewing”) in the city’s High Park. Witness the park’s bountiful buds explode in a riot of blushing blossoms for snap-happy visitors – the flowering of the Sakura trees is truly spectacular. Peak bloom only lasts about a week, so be sure to follow “bloom watch” on Twitter, so as not to blooming-well miss it. @HighParkNC
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ILLUSTRATION BY FATTI BURKE
Good Reasons
BEER, OH BEER Canadians are famously in love with the brewski and Toronto, in particular, is a real centre of excellence when it comes to the humble libation. Meet, and fall in love with, a plethora of ruby red ales, golden pilsners, velvety stouts, cask-conditioned bitters and anything and everything in between. A very good spot is “Toronto’s local”, the brilliantly named C’est What?, which has been doling out suds and snacks for more than a quarter of a century. Hic-hic-hooray! cestwhat.com
HIP ’HOOD Fantastically multi- and countercultural, the Kensington Market neighbourhood downtown is a topnotch perch to pan for Toronto’s edgiest cultural nuggets. One spot with spadefuls of arty grit is Videofag, a “storefront cinema and performance lab dedicated to the creation and exhibition of video, film, new media, and live art”. The rest of The Market is just as thought-provokingly extraordinary. videofag.com
FALLS IN LOVE Niagara Falls straddles the border between Canada and the US and is around an hour-and-a-half drive from the city centre. Feel free to use the word “awesome” without feeling like you are channelling an adolescent North American; it is a genuinely incredible sight. To get up even closer and more personal with the more than two million litres of water pouring over the edge of the iconic formation every second, take a brisk jaunt on the good ship Maid of the Mist. Awesome indeed. maidofthemist.com
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Food for the soul
Aoife Carrigy on the scent of a delightful literary food festival. icture a working farm within sniffing distance of a saltaired East Cork coastline, with a walled garden, sweeping driveway and country house dining room impervious to fads and trends. Picture a small festival with big ideas played out in the heart of this farm: in elegant drawing rooms, circus-style tents and agricultural sheds cleared to make room for book signings and readings, craft beer and wine tastings and a taste of our finest food producers. And picture, just a country mile down a country road, one of the world’s best-respected cookery schools run by dynamic siblings Darina Allen and Rory O’Connell. Picture its demo halls packed out by the likes of Yotam Ottolenghi and Ramael Scully (the London-based chefs and food writers who gave us pomegranate molasses) and Francis Mallmann (the Argentinean chef who brought us wood-fired feasts via Netflix’s Chef ’s Table). Welcome to the fourth Kerrygold Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine this
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May 20-22: an annual gathering described by seminal chef Alice Waters as “important” and by master of wine Jancis Robinson as “cosmopolitan”, “friendly” and “agreeably multi-generational”. Robinson returns this year, as do many of Ireland’s leading food and drink writers. They will be joined by prestigious first-timers such as Hugh Johnson and Prue Leith and by 8,000 festival goers; some to don wellies and forage the local seashore, others to sit back and learn the secrets of Soviet larders or Lebanese home cooking.
Feast of Eden – above, epicurean siblings Rory O’Connell and Darina Allen. Above right, earthly delights at the Ballymaloe Litfest.
Visitors can rediscover vegetables with Dillisk Project’s Katie Sanderson or fall for the flavours of Hartwood, a wall-free restaurant in the Yucatan jungle. Or they can join key influencers in international food policy such as Danielle Nierenberg of Food Tank and Dr Alessandro Demaio of the World Health Organisation as they detangle complexities around food production and consumption, in the pivotal Grainstore sessions entitled ‘Our Food – What’s the Story?’. The magic of Ballymaloe Litfest, which this year is themed ‘Local Hero, Global Hero’, is that all of this plays out on such an intimate and human scale. As organiser Rory O’Connell says: “We want people to leave feeling optimistic and energised.” Even if you simply dropped in to catch some of the free Garden Tent talks, it would be hard not to. litfest.ie
GREAT SCOT EDINBURGH It’s not every day that you dine in a ‘Restaurant and Food Research Hub’. And rarer still that dinner explores classical philosophical takes on food and our relationship with it. But then the Edinburgh Food Studio likes doing things differently. The studio is the brainchild of Scottish chef Ben Reade, formerly head of culinary research and development at Copenhagen’s Nordic Food Lab. From May 5-7, the studio celebrates the birthday of Edinburgh’s great philosopher David Hume with a Passion & Reason Dinner Series co-hosted by philosopher Steven Martz, who will compare Hume’s influential essay, Of the Standard of Taste, with various philosophical stances on the hierarchy of senses. Food for thought. edinburghfoodstudio.com 30 |
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Racing Aces
Gallop along to some of the most thrilling horse races across Ireland and the UK this season, with gee-gee enthusiast Donn McClean.
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NEWMARKET Qipco Guineas Festival, April 30 to May 1 Newmarket hosts the first two Classics of the season, the 2000 Guineas for three-yearold colts and the 1000 Guineas for three-yearold fillies, the highlights of a two-day early-summer festival. Last year’s leading two-year-old colt, Air Force Blue, is on track for the 2000 Guineas, while last year’s top juvenile filly Minding is clear favourite for the fillies’ Classic. newmarket.thejockeyclub. co.uk
EPSOM The Investec Derby Festival, June 3-4 Legendary breeder Federico Tesio once spoke about how the thoroughbred exists because its selection has depended on a piece of wood – the winning post at Epsom. Dreams have been realised and shattered on the Epsom Downs but the atmosphere is unique. It’s a carnival wrapped around one of the most serious events on the sporting calendar. epsomderby.co.uk
ASCOT Royal Ascot, June 14-18 Royal Ascot is as close as flat racing gets to the Olympic Games. A race for every discipline, spread out over five fantastic days on Ascot’s green baize and run under the expert gaze of Queen Elizabeth. Eight Group One races attract some of the finest racehorses from all corners of the world, including Ireland, while, in the enclosures the Pimms flows and the fashion statements reverberate far beyond the racecourse. ascot.co.uk
THE CURRAGH
Irish Derby Festival, June 24-26 Some of Europe’s top three-yearolds compete for the Dubai Duty Free Irish Derby, a race that has been won in the past by such luminaries as Nijinsky, The Minstrel, Shergar, Montjeu, Sinndar and Galileo. The race itself is the highlight of a three-day meeting that has fashion, music and entertainment as a backdrop to some top-class horse racing. curragh.ie
ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA McAREE
NAAS Punchestown Festival, April 26-30 This is one of the highlights of the Irish racing and social calendars. With 12 Grade One races and top prize money on offer, the best National Hunt horses from Ireland and Britain compete against each other for the endof-season accolades, prepared by the best trainers, ridden by the best riders and watched by an expectant crowd that is immersed in the festival atmosphere. punchestown.com
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LA RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-DENIS is the city’s most fascinating street (I am biased – I live there). It has everything: African hairdressers, Kurdish restaurants, South Asian vegetable shops and fromageries. Sit in a café and watch the multi-ethnic daytime crowd give way to partygoers in one of the many cool bars.
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO
PARIS
Rory Mulholland takes us on a stroll of the French capital. Stock up on pheasants, oysters or German specialities at the MARCHÉ SAINT-MARTIN a delightful indoor market to which few tourists venture. After you’ve ruined yourself financially at the food stalls, refuel at Tuk Tuk Thai café, the couscous restaurant, or chomp on a burger at Allen’s Market. (31-33 Rue du Château d’Eau, +33 148 859 330; equipement.paris.fr))
MORE ABOUT RORY
With the warm weather back, head to the prettiest park in Paris, LES BUTTES CHAUMONT for drinks or dinner at the bucolic PAVILLON PUEBLA . Watch Paris’ growing class of “bobos” – bourgeois bohemians – as you recline under a canopy of mature trees. (Inside the park, opposite 43 Avenue Simon-Bolivar, +33 142 022 245; leperchoir.tv)
Dubliner Rory Mulholland has lived in Paris since 2000 and works as a correspondent for the Daily Telegraph. “From presidential love affairs to the war on terror, there is no shortage of news stories here. There is also the wonderful food, culture and architecture. But for me the best thing about Paris is its countless cinemas, making it the best city in the world for lovers of the seventh art.”
LE 52 The ever-changing carte at this studiously hip “neo-bistro” offers delights such as slow-braised pork belly with a lush herbal persillade, and roast duck with coco beans, corn and kale. (52 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis; faubourgstdenis.com).
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin and Cork to PARIS daily. Guests travelling from Paris can connect at Dublin Airport to ten North American destinations on Aer Lingus services.
MANOIR H
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Way too scary for small kids, but if you want to get your heart racing, head to LE MANOIR DE PARIS. Half-museum, half-attraction park, it has actors emerging from dark corners to give you the shivers. (18 Rue de Paradis, +33 670 893 587; lemanoirdeparis.fr)
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The least pretentious and the most fun of the city’s art centres, LE CENTQUATRE is housed in halls that were once the municipal funeral parlour, and always has some funky and hands-on exhibits for all ages (104 Rue d’Aubervilliers, +33 153 355 000; 104.fr)
Once Paris’ biggest gay club, LE LOUXOR arts cinema is a jewel of Egyptian-inspired Art Deco. Don’t miss its rooftop café from where you can watch the streetside chaos around Barbès metro. (170 Boulevard de Magenta, +33 144 639 696; cinemalouxor.fr)
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Tuned
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Ahead of her upcoming international performances, chameleonic vocalist Camille O’Sullivan talks about alter-egos and the motivation of fear. WORDS ED POWER PHOTOGRAPHS SEAN & YVETTE
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amille O’Sullivan is a special talent. The flamboyant chanteuse’s live-wire interpretations of David Bowie, Nick Cave and others have floored audiences from Edinburgh to Sydney. One moment she is purring and leaping into the laps of random audience members, the next she’s emoting at the top of her lungs. There’s no one else like her in contemporary music. “I’m a different person when I’m performing,” says the Cork-born, Dublin-based artist. “Sometimes I am quite mortified by the things I get up to. It’s about being childlike and uninhibited. You can be quiet and gentle but you can also be loud. If I thought about it too much I probably couldn’t go to that place. “Often I come off stage, thinking, ‘God, what did I just do?’ I would never compare myself to Beyoncé but I totally understood when she talked about her Sasha Fierce character. I might have a bit of an alter-ego.” It promises to be a busy year for O’Sullivan. In January she was among a select group invited to perform at the prestigious In the Round mini-festival in London (other headliners included Marianne Faithfull and John Cale, formerly of The Velvet Underground). And on April 29 she participates in the hugely anticipated Imagining Ireland event at the UK capital’s Royal Festival Hall (soutbankcentre.co.uk) – a musical rumination AERLINGUS.COM |
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CAMILLE ON … DAVID BOWIE “I was in London when he died. It was amazing to walk around, seeing all these middle-aged people quietly crying.” LIVING IN BERLIN “I worked there for a year on architecture. I was in an office with two bosses from the West and one from the East. It constantly sounded like there was a party going on – we were always drinking schnapps.” GROWING UP IN CORK “I went to a school called Ashton. It was quite wild and bohemian. I had a teacher who used to read Shakespeare aloud to us. He made us get up and recite it.” BREAKING INTO SHOWBUSINESS “I’d cycle around Dublin with my printed A3 advertisements. I would buy some sausages at the butcher and ask could I put a poster up, then go next door and buy some flowers and do the same. I used to send postcards to promoters, asking for a gig.” BEING HER OWN BOSS “I used to think someone would knock on the door and tell me I was going to make it. I realised nobody was going to do that. I had to get up and do it for myself. Being your own manager means being hands on. If you want to book gigs, you have to go and make it happen.”
on the deep and complicated relationship between Ireland and Britain commissioned by Dublin’s National Concert Hall and featuring, among others, Kevin Rowland of Dexy’s Midnight Runners, James Vincent McMorrow and Paul Brady. A busy summer continues with a headline spot at the IRELAND 100 event at Washington DC’s Kennedy Center on May 22 (kennedy-center.org), before she turns her attention to August’s Edinburgh Fringe. She is also building her reputation as an actress. O’Sullivan reached the shortlist of potential cast-members for U2’s beleaguered Spider-Man: Turn off the Dark Broadway musical (“The Edge said he hadn’t realised there were people like me in Ireland”) and lit up the screen with her cameo as insurrectionary icon Countess Markievicz in Rebellion, RTÉ’s retelling of the 1916 Easter Rising. If she truly is plagued by a lack of confidence, then O’Sullivan is a 38 |
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good advertisement for self-doubt. “Fear gets you up in the morning,” she says, a picture of understated chic in a sparkly black top and leggings. “I remember my mum and dad telling me, ‘we think you’re good – but you might be terrible’. Not to sound clichéd but a certain amount of doubt keeps you trying. There’s this weird thing where you have to have enough confidence to get on stage – yet also enough doubt to worry whether you can do it. The worst you can be is complacent.” O’Sullivan grew up near Passage West, a sleepy seaside town outside Cork city. It was a relatively bohemian upbringing. Her father is a retired Formula Two racing driver, her mother an artist from France. The couple met at a race in Monte Carlo; later they moved to London, where Camille was born, before putting roots down in Cork. Today, she lives modestly in Dublin with her three-year-old daughter (she was back on stage a
month after giving birth, having been invited to duet by Yoko Ono). “I have always felt like an Irish person with a French person’s personality,” she says. “I had all these emotions and I didn’t know how to channel them.” She was a standout student and won a place on UCD’s esteemed architecture course. At college, she had her first taste of live performance via the student drama society and found it surprisingly addictive. “I was talked into singing a Jacques Brel song. It was cathartic – pure therapy. You might be going through hell in a relationship or whatever. Brel allowed you sing it from the heart.” Still, she didn’t want to disappoint her parents and, after university, took a job as an architect. Then, at age 25, she almost died in a car crash. It profoundly changed her perspective on life. “The accident made it clear to me that we only have a limited amount of time on this earth,” she says. “I’d
WITH NAOMI CAMPBELL
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always sang and wanted to pursue it full-time. I realised that I needed to get my act together. “I wasn’t miserable working as an architect,” she continues. “But every Christmas I always felt like a lost soul. I wanted to be a good daughter and have a good career. My parents had paid my fees. I felt I should go to college and do well. None of my family is in the least bit theatrical. They were saying, ‘you’re leaving architecture to do what?’ My mum said, ‘you’ll be killed – you’re too soft.’” But her artistic impulses would not be denied. “I kept scribbling down on a pad of paper ‘you must sing, you must sing’. I was talking myself into doing it. I was a different person for about a year after the accident – willing to take risks and see what happens. What happens, of course, is that you go back to being your normal self and all the old fears and insecurities come flooding back. I love what I do but I think I’m a reluctant performer.” Meanwhile, the position of women in music is once again under scrutiny, with artists such as Adele and Taylor Swift coming out in support of the American singer Kesha in her fight to be released from her record deal. Having looked after her business affairs from the start, O’Sullivan exerts an uncommon degree of control over her career. Nonetheless, sexism has raised its head she says. “People might treat you in certain ways or fob you off because you are a woman,” she says. “I’ve had to ask people who I respect whether someone was reacting to me the way they were because I’m a girl. And they’d tell me ‘yes’ ... “Most of those I have
Seventy per cent of the time you are treated with respect as a woman. There’s that 30 per cent where you are regarded quite dismissively 40 |
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RYAN McGOVERN
INTERVIEW
worked with have been very respectful. However, I’ve been in situations where people were not trying to physically take advantage so much as attempting to get one over on you. Of course, even as an architect I had that – being the only woman on a building site and what have you. Seventy per cent of the time you are treated with respect as a woman. There’s that 30 per cent where you are regarded quite dismissively.” For all the gender politics backstage, O’Sullivan exudes nothing less than fortitude out front. But she admits to being a jittery wreck leading up to her London Roundhouse appearance in January. A fortnight before the gig, Camille stayed up all night listening to David Bowie, thinking she might incorporate some of his classic compositions into the set (she had covered his ballad Lady Grinning Soul on her 2012 LP Changeling). The next morning she was woken
by the sound of a hundred text messages arriving at once. The Thin White Duke had passed away. “I don’t believe in fate. However, I did think, ‘isn’t that weird?’ I spent the evening listening to his music and was delighted with it and had no idea he was unwell. Yet I was immediately wary of performing his songs at the Roundhouse. I didn’t want to be seen as cashing in. In the end, so many people requested Bowie songs I felt I had no choice but to go ahead and do some. I remember stepping down and embracing the audience at the end. They needed a hug and so did I.” Camille O’Sullivan performs at the Irish Arts Center, New York, April 6-16; Imagining Ireland at the Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, London, April 29; Berlin Bar Jeder, May 3-5; Brighton Fringe, May 12-15; The Kennedy Center, Washington DC, May 22, and Edinburgh Fringe, August 6-21. camilleosullivan.com
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PEOPLE | 80th ANNIVERSARY
The Maverick WHO Gráinne Cronin, Aer Lingus 1977-2010 WHAT Aer Lingus’ first female pilot Gráinne Cronin became the country’s first female airline pilot in 1988, turning an otherwise routine flight from Dublin to Shannon into a national media event. Despite the novelty of her role, it was an easy decision for the girl from Malahide to take to the skies; her father Felim, an Aer Lingus pilot himself, had already taught her how to fly, and her sister was also a commercial pilot. Gráinne subsequently married a pilot and both of their daughters now have their wings – it’s the family business. Having completed her training, Gráinne first flew as co-pilot on a Boeing 737, a plane that remains close to her heart. “Over my career, I got to fly all sorts of craft. My first command was a Short 360 – the ‘flying shed’ – and later I flew Airbus A330s across the Atlantic. But the 737 was my favourite.” She continues: “Of course, I also got to visit lots of places – my favourite destination would have to be Boston; there’s plenty to do yet it’s very relaxed. Its Irish connections are famous, but, just like here, it rains a lot – so bring a good coat.” TRAVEL TIP “Be practical. Wherever you’re visiting, a good pair of walking shoes is a must.” 42 |
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HIGH AND
Mighty
This year, in addition to the 1916 commemorations, Ireland also celebrates the 80th birthday of its iconic national airline. Here, we go behind the scenes of Aer Lingus. WORDS INGMAR KIANG PHOTOGRAPHS ANTHONY WOODS
t exactly 9am on May 27, 1936, a small aircraft known as the Iolar (Eagle) took-off from Baldonnel in west Dublin, carrying five passengers to Bristol. The short trip was Aer Lingus’ inaugural flight, its maiden voyage, and at the time the Iolar was the only aircraft registered to the fledgling airline. Fast forward to 2016: Aer Lingus now flies more than 11 million passengers annually, with a fleet of more than 60 aircraft operating on more than 100 routes. A busy year approaches, with new aircraft coming into service and three new transatlantic routes opening (Los Angeles; Hartford, Connecticut and Newark, New Jersey). A thoroughly modern concern, Aer Lingus currently conducts over 80 per cent of its business online and reports 35 per cent growth in its social media activity last year.
A
Aer Lingus has also built an enviable reputation for safety, punctuality and customer satisfaction, a record built over decades that has helped it compete magnificently against civil aviation’s bigger players. However, for many the Aer Lingus success story represents something even more valuable: a unique sense of Irishness and a feeling of being “at home” the moment one steps on board. Since its inception, Aer Lingus has recognised the need not only to provide a thoroughly professional service, but to provide that service with genuine warmth and friendship. In the following pages we talk to employees past and present, along with personalities associated with the Aer Lingus brand, all of whom have helped create a national institution, a worldwide ambassador proudly representing Ireland at its best. AERLINGUS.COM |
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PEOPLE | 80th ANNIVERSARY
The Ambassador As a member of the Irish international rugby team, Johnny Sexton is now an experienced flyer, though it wasn’t always so ... “I used to be a terrible traveller, I’d always over-pack and bring far too much stuff. But I’m the opposite now – I travel light, and would be happy to leave with just my passport and phone.” Johnny made his first Aer Lingus flight as a 12-year-old in 1997, on a trip to see Manchester United. Despite the fact that United won the game (beating Coventry 3-0), he has mixed memories of the visit. “The match was fantastic but the following morning news broke of Princess Diana’s death and, even as a child, I noticed a very strange, subdued atmosphere for the rest of my stay.” He has fonder memories of a recent trip to Las Vegas, where he and his wife Laura spent their honeymoon in 2013. “An amazing place, I’d recommend it to anyone.” This summer Johnny flies to Faro with Aer Lingus for a family holiday in Luz, preceded by a visit to New York for a fundraiser with Robbie Keane and Ronan O’Gara. The three sportsmen have combined to create the No 10 Fund, raising money for a new daycare unit at Crumlin Children’s Hospital. TRAVEL TIP: “If you’re taller than average, try to get a front row seat – you’ll appreciate the extra legroom. And being first in line to disembark is a nice bonus.”
INPHO / BILLY STICKLAND
WHO Johnny Sexton, Ireland rugby fly-half WHAT Brand Ambassador for Aer Lingus
The Accidental Midwife WHO Jackie Ryan, Aer Lingus flight attendant, 1967-92 WHAT Delivered a baby on board the Aer Lingus St Patrick In June 1975 Jackie Ryan was part of the crew of an Aer Lingus 747 leased to the Portuguese airline TAP, working to repatriate Portuguese refugees from Mozambique. At Beira airport, ground staff noticed a pregnant woman boarding with her husband. “She was very heavily pregnant, and thinking about it now, she was probably already having contractions,” says Jackie. “Normally she wouldn’t be allowed onboard but we were in an extreme situation.” Not long after take-off, Maria Loueiro went into labour and Jackie’s training as a nurse was called upon, while TAP airline steward, José Brito, translated. “Fortunately, we were in a Jumbo and there was plenty of space in the first-class cabin. We delivered the baby upstairs using whatever we had to hand: hot water, a few towels and plenty of gin as a steriliser!” The plane had to divert to Zambia for an engine change before eventually reaching Lisbon, where the grateful parents named the baby Patrick in honour of the plane and its crew. Maria later said, “Every June 11 we are reminded of what for us will always be the most wonderful airline in the world, and the warmest, kindest people who helped us during a most anxious time.” Jackie went on to work with Aer Lingus until retiring in 1992, and an embroidered purse marked amor (love), a gift from Maria Loueiro, still has pride of place on her living-room wall. TRAVEL TIP “Buy yourself a little something before each and every flight. I now have a nice Waterford Crystal collection that I couldn’t have afforded without duty-free.” 44 |
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PEOPLE | 80th ANNIVERSARY
The High Flyer WHO Michelle Lee, Aer Lingus director of marketing and guest experience WHAT Aviation industry expert “Having worked with a number of airlines, I can honestly say that the difference with Aer Lingus is the people – everybody works with a genuine passion and love for the brand. This is a small country with a big neighbour, but Aer Lingus has always punched above its weight. In fact, I’ve just heard we’ve been voted Best Short Haul Airline by readers of The Guardian in the UK – a great start to the year. Our relationship with IAG means we’re encouraged to nurture the Aer Lingus identity and heritage, yet we have the support of one of the world’s largest airline groups. It’s a transitional period but it almost feels like a start-up ... we’re aiming for serious growth and have to work it out as we go, thinking on the 46 |
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hoof. The signs are positive: our transatlantic traffic has almost doubled in the past five years and we’re launching three new North American routes this year. Over my career, I’ve probably clocked up more air miles than most people, but I still love flying and it’s never become a routine. My recommendation for a holiday destination would be Venice – obviously it has the architecture, canals and gondolas, but the big secret is the food. Venetian cuisine is largely based on seafood and is quite different from the rest of Italy, with lots of Eastern influences. The place to stay is the Kempinski Hotel – the very definition of old world charm.” TRAVEL TIP: “One for the ladies: Clarins Beauty Flash Balm. Flying can be dehydrating but a splash of this will revive your skin instantly.”
The Jet-Setter WHO Eamon Power, Aer Lingus 1967-2013 WHAT Aviation historian and enthusiast Back in 1954, a seven-year-old Eamon Power took a flight to London, barely able to contain his excitement as he took off in a brand new Vickers Viscount. A love affair with aviation, and Aer Lingus, had begun. Eamon joined the Aer Lingus Maintenance Department in 1967, monitoring its revenue and accounts – the start of a 46-year career. “I was lucky enough to make a living out of my passion and I worked during interesting times, as we transitioned from turbo-props to jets. But my all-time favourite plane is still the little Fokker 50 that was such a success on short-haul routes I managed for Aer Lingus Commuter. It was great to work for such an innovative company – for example, we were the first to spot the potential of the Airbus A330 as a transatlantic carrier. The A340 was meant for that job but, with four engines, it was expensive to run. So we went with the twin-engined A330 and proved it could work fantastically well. We helped that plane become a huge seller ... I reckon Lockheed owe us a few quid for that!” Since retiring in 2013, Eamon has maintained his involvement in aviation. Between writing a book on the history of Aer Lingus, he also produces the monthly Irish Air newsletter, and helps to prepare the Iolar, Aer Lingus’ first aeroplane from 1936, for air shows at home and abroad. TRAVEL TIP “If you’re an air enthusiast like me, Zurich is the place to go – the airport has a fantastic viewing platform.”
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The Charity Partner WHO Matt English, CEO Special Olympics Ireland WHAT Business leader and lifelong Aer Lingus flyer As premier sponsor and travel partner to the Irish Special Olympics team, Aer Lingus flew 88 athletes and 40 support team members to the 2015 World Summer Games in Los Angeles, with similar numbers expected for the Special Winter Olympics in Austria next year. It’s not a task to be taken lightly and the Special Olympics Team Ireland CEO is keen to show his appreciation. “Our athletes have intellectual disabilities, some have mobility issues and many have never been on a plane before,” says Matt, “but the Aer Lingus staff are simply fantastic at making them feel relaxed and welcome. Everyone from check-in to cabin crew works above and beyond the call of duty – it makes me feel proud to be Irish.” He himself hails from a large Wexford farming family. “We certainly weren’t rich, so I distinctly remember the sheer thrill of getting on a plane for the first time when I was 12. It was part of a school tour, a one-way trip from Dublin to Shannon and we had to get the train back! But I loved it and I’ve stuck with Aer Lingus ever since, throughout my business career.” TRAVEL TIP “Denia, north of Alicante. It’s a large town rather than a big city, but it has everything you need for the perfect holiday – culture, beaches, beautiful food and excellent golf.”
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DESTINATION | IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST
Eastern PROMISE
THE SEQUEL
The second part of our journey through Ireland’s Ancient East explores thousands of years of history in Wicklow, Kilkenny and Waterford. WORDS PÓL Ó CONGHAILE PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID SCIORA
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Opposite, richly historic Glendalough, and this page, Joe O’Connell and furry friends at Jerpoint Park.
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DESTINATION | IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST
I
t’s a soft day in Glendalough. Sheets of rain are buffeting through the valley, pinging off monastic husks, darkening the round tower and lichen-spotted headstones. The ruins are indifferent. They’re a wow moment whatever the weather. I grapple with my camera, trying to knock off at least one photo that isn’t blurred by raindrops. But that’s nothing on the hardships St Kevin must have experienced. The most famous visitor to this glacial valley arrived as a hermit in the sixth century – guided by angels over the Wicklow mountains, as folklore has it, and braving the elements to sleep in a cave above the Upper Lake. “St Kevin’s bed”, they call it; sculpted in stone. “The name Glendalough comes from the Irish language,” explains the manager of the visitor centre, George McClafferty. “It means the valley of two lakes (Gleann dá loch). In Kevin’s day, all the buildings 52 |
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were wooden. It was only himself and a few monks. But fame started to spread about his miracles. That attracted people to the monastery and it started to grow ...” In the centuries that followed, there were pilgrims and plundering Vikings. There came a golden age and a growing tourist reputation. “Only fancy can describe the charms of that delightful place,” as the novelist, William Makepeace Thackeray, wrote after a 19th-century pilgrimage of his own. “Once seen, it becomes your friend forever ...” The Wicklow mountains are the starting point for this second leg of a journey through Ireland’s Ancient East – a touring region linking 5,000 years of Neolithic, Early Christian, Medieval and Anglo-Irish history. The first leg took me from the Hill of Uisneach in Westmeath to Castletown House, one of the country’s finest Palladian mansions in Kildare. This time, I’m headed in a roundabout way towards Ireland’s oldest city: Waterford. Stops such as Glendalough and Lough Tay, whose peaty depths are a dead ringer for a
Top, Glendalough and Lough Tay make for impressive sights and sites. Above, on the farm with Wicklow-based chef and host Catherine Fulvio.
gigantic pint of Guinness, are part of the immersion. But Ireland’s Ancient East is about stories too. “What we have to offer is a taste of real Ireland,” says Catherine Fulvio, welcoming me into the living room of her farmhouse, Ballyknocken House and Cookery School (Glenealy, Ashford, Co Wicklow, 0404 44627; ballyknocken.ie). Tucked away beneath Carrick mountain, there are wellies in the porch and hunks of homemade apple cake on the tray. (“Don’t be fooled by the Italian name,” she once told me. “My mother was a Byrne.”)
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DESTINATION | IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST
Clockwise from left, Kilkenny Castle; the River Nore, from St John’s Bridge, Kilkenny; St Canice Cathedral’s Round Tower, Kilkenny; nice to see ewe, at Jerpoint Park; chef Garrett Byrne, of Campagne, and sparkling tableware at the Waterford House of Crystal.
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EAT AT … COACHING INN Visitors to Hunter’s Hotel, the Blue Book bolthole in Co Wicklow, may well feel like time travellers. Ireland’s oldest coaching inn dates from the 1600s, with fusty corridors, an oak staircase and thick stone walls the perfect setting for an oldschool Sunday lunch. Mains range from escalope of salmon to juicy servings of Wicklow lamb. (Rathnew, 0404 40106; hunters.ie) MICHELIN STAR Campagne is a restaurant to travel for. Garrett Byrne and Bríd Hannon’s Kilkenny operation harnesses seasonal produce to bring bold flavours and balanced textures – from a summery sea bass to wintry rabbit terrine offset with apricots, pickled carrot and fruity toast. (5 The Arches, Gashouse Lane, 056 777 2858; campagne.ie) GALLIC FLAIR Stephanie Barillier and Henry Stone’s Sha-Roe Bistro strikes an almost poetic tone, with sash windows and a flickering inglenook setting the scene for a gorgeous marriage of French flair and modern Irish cooking. From bouillabaisse to Dunmore East seafood, it’s an off-radar bistro deserving of its Bib Gourmand. (Main Street, Clonegal, Co Carlow, 053 937 5636)
“People can come and stay in an Irish farmhouse from the 1850s. I am the third generation; my kids are the fourth. I was chief bottlewasher for my mother. She never promoted me above sous chef,” laughs the celebrity chef who has done numerous cookbooks and TV series, but still makes her guests packed lunches for their walks across the farmland and onto the hills. “You can see the mountains of Glendalough from there.” After Ballyknocken, I wind my way over the Wicklow mountains, phone reception flickering as the roads twist and turn through rough blankets of heather. I pass through Carlow, before exiting the motorway and parking to explore Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile – the ye olde stretching from the city’s Anglo-Norman castle to St Canice’s Cathedral. Kilkenny is big on heritage set pieces. But it also does smaller, atmospheric nooks. There is Kilkenny Castle (The Parade, 056 770 4100; kilkennycastle.ie), standing sentinel over the River
Nore, and then there is Butter Slip, a close-knit alleyway recalling the butter vendors that once lined its flanks. The Dominican Black Abbey (Abbey Square, Abbey Street, 056 772 1279; blackabbey. ie) looks unassuming, until you step inside and are blown away by the kaleidoscopic colours of its Rosary window. Many cities would be happy with a Medieval building or two; Kilkenny brims with them. It’s not the only one, however. Just a 45-minute drive away, down the M8 motorway, is Waterford – a city founded by Vikings, bolstered by Normans and containing some 1,000 years of history within the small, aptly-named “Viking Triangle” at its core. Here, I hook up with Tom Burtchaell of Waterford Walking Tours (051 873 711; jackswalkingtours. com), a father-and-son operation that runs regular guided tours of the city from March to October. It’s like being in an outdoor museum. Tom points out the spot at which Thomas Francis Meagher first unveiled the Irish tricolour and also explains
CITY BISTRO The basic room, cheap‘n’cheerful tableware and above-the-pub setting temper expectations, but the cooking of Keith Boyle, below, at The Bay Tree Bistro in Waterford packs a surprising punch. From roast potatoes with a playful zing of lemon to a complex duo of smoked pork belly and braised pork pie, the ambition belies the low prices, and there’s a new menu every week. (1 Ballybricken, 051 858 517)
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Ancient Timeline
1
3,000BC Brownshill Dolmen, Co Carlow
It sits somewhat oddly in the middle of Carlow’s suburbs, but then you realise – 5,000 years ago, these suburbs didn’t exist. But the whopping great Brownshill Dolmen did – with a 100-tonne capstone said to be the heaviest of its kind in Europe. How did they do it? carlowtourism.com
2
928AD Dunmore Cave, Co Kilkenny
Ireland’s biggest known stalagmite, a treasure trove including silver coins and rare, purple-dyed silk, and the story of a massacre in 928AD – when Vikings are said to have killed up to 1,000 people in “Dearc Fhearna” – all greet visitors to this unlikely repository of Irish heritage. heritageireland.ie
3
1100s Reginald’s Tower, Waterford
The only monument in Ireland named in honour of a Viking (that’s what you get when you plunder and pillage, I suppose), Reginald’s Tower is Waterford’s most iconic building. After touring the Viking treasures inside, see if you can spot the cannonball lodged in the upper stories outside. waterfordtreasures.com
4
1704 Wicklow Gaol
5
2010 House of Waterford Crystal
Built in 1704 and operational until 1924, Wicklow town’s iconic gaol is said to be the most haunted place in Ireland (some prisoners never left). Costumed guides and interactive exhibits bring the appalling conditions to life ... it’s clammy enough to believe the ghost stories too. wicklowshistoricgaol.com
Ornamental glass has been produced in Waterford since 1783 and the spanking new home of Waterford Crystal not only takes you through the history since, but shows you the famous glassware being designed, blown and cut before your very eyes. Irish craft at its purest. waterfordvisitorcentre.com
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Clockwise from top, the oddly suburban Brownshill Dolmen; Waterford landmark Reginald’s Tower; watching the magic happen at Waterford House of Crystal, and where the hauntings happen – Wicklow Gaol.
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DESTINATION | IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST
SLEEP AT … COUNTRY ESCAPE Dermot and Christine Gannon’s country house, Co Tipperary’s The Old Convent, is one of the country’s best gourmet escapes – with couples raving about the tasting menus, individually designed rooms and (whisper it) adult-only policy. Bring the walking boots and enjoy Tipperary at its most intimate and delicious. Double room B&B from €175. (Clogheen, 052 746 5565; theoldconvent.ie) GEORGIAN LUXURY The 18th-century Mount Juliet Estate in Co Kilkenny boasts a Michelin star restaurant, equestrian centre and gorgeous golf course, but the star attraction might just be its estate host Des McGrath. “The history I’m telling you was told to me by people who worked on the estate over 100 years,” he says. “There’s never been a book written on it.” B&B from €109. (Thomastown, 056 777 3000; mountjuliet.ie). ORGANIC Wild and slow food is at the heart of BrookLodge, a charming five-star boasting Ireland’s only certified organic restaurant, The Strawberry Tree. Ingredients are plucked from the hotel’s walled gardens, hedgerows and beyond (think wild garlic and sloe gin), while a spa, golf course, and adjacent Acton’s Pub microbrewery, make for an exceptional stay. B&B from €150. (Macreddin Village, Co Wicklow; 04 023 6444; brooklodge.com)
Above, Georgian museum Bishop’s Palace, and right, BrookLodge’s Strawberry Tree Restaurant is certified organic. Below right, Mount Juliet’s host with the most, Des McGrath.
that “Waterford” comes from the Norse, “Vadrefjord”. We pass the place where Strongbow and Aoife were married in 1170. In Bishop’s Palace (The Mall, 0761 102 501; waterfordtreasures. com), the Georgian museum, I examine a sedan chair in which aristocrats would once have been ferried about the streets. Outside Reginald’s Tower, we peer up. “Do you see the cannonball?” Tom smiles, pointing out a lump lodged in the stonework. “It was fired during Cromwell’s siege in 1650.” The more people I talk to, the clearer it becomes. From Glendalough to Georgian Waterford, Palladian mansions to pre-historic tombs, the stories of Ireland’s Ancient East are inseparable from its storytellers. People such as Tom, Catherine and George, with their knowledge and enthusiasm, their punch lines and turns of phrase. People like Joe O’Connell, who walked me around the “lost town” of Newtown Jerpoint back on his farm by Kilkenny’s River Nore. “What you’re looking at here are 58 |
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the remains of a failed 12th-century town,” Joe said, gesturing towards the ruins. In its heyday, Jerpoint Park was a centre for pilgrims. There were 27 houses, with a pub for every second one. A heron rose from a stream as we paused beside a huge slab, which was draped with a horse blanket to keep off the frost. Joe pulled it back to reveal a cracked but spectacular tomb believed to mark the burial place of St Nicholas of Myra, whose body, he said, was brought here secretly by crusader knights in Medieval times. “I have no doubt there’s something here,” he smiled. Joe accompanied me back to the car and, as I packed my camera away, asked me to jot down one final note. “When you’re writing this can you tell people to call in? Say that Joe would love to see them. Everyone’s welcome, like.”
MODERN The central location of Kilkenny’s smart Pembroke Hotel is a big selling point, but it’s not the only one. A 1930s V8 Ford Special in the lobby harks back to its previous incarnation as Statham’s Garage, and the view from the rooftop is a peach – guests can get a short historical overview on request. B&B from €94. (11 Patrick Street, 056 778 3500; kilkennypembrokehotel.com)
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DESTINATION | LOS ANGELES
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Regional and international flavours converge on the streets of LA for a truly diverse eating-out experience.
Angeleno DELIGHT WORDS KRISTA SIMMONS PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTIN TEIG
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DESTINATION | LOS ANGELES
os Angeles is at the top of many travellers’ bucket lists, and rightfully so. The ever-pleasant weather and celebrity sighting potential have always been draws, sure, but culinary adventurers are being lured by the vibrant local food scene, which right now is as hot as the SoCal sunshine itself. With its bountiful, farmers’ market-driven produce, sensational street eats and a cadre of diverse chefs boldly presenting their personal stories on the plate, the colourful culinary tapestry is as beautiful as ever. It’s all a matter of timing, really. As the food world distanced itself from high-falutin’ fine dining at the onset of the recession, the city
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was already poised as the capital of laid-back, unfussy eats. LA has always been a bit more casual, after all. Here, you’re more likely to pull a fresh-pressed organic juice out of an ATM than have a snooty maître’d hand you a blazer. Alledgedly, the Michelin inspectors haven’t even visited since 2009. That’s not to say there isn’t polished cooking going on. But even some of the swankiest Angeleno restaurants have a cosy, homely feel. For example, Curtis Stone’s Maude (212 South Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, +1 310 859 3418; mauderestaurant.com). There, the Australian-born chef bases the monthly tasting menu on a single ingredient, presenting hyperseasonal dishes that pay homage to California’s bounty. This April, he’ll
be preparing a nine-course menu where each dish centres on radishes. In May, garlic will be the focus. And of course there’s LA stalwart Spago (176 North Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, +1 310 385 0880; wolfgangpuck.com), Wolfgang Puck’s restaurant that’s been going strong for more than 30 years and has since had a refurbishment to make the dining room match the approachability of his quintessential California fare. First-class meals can also be had at Providence (5955 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, +1 323 460 4170; providencela.com), known for Michael Cimarusti’s immaculately prepared seafood, and at Mélisse (1104 Wilshire Boulevard, Santa Monica, +1 310 395 0881; melisse.com), recognised for Josiah Citrin’s California-influenced French
“At Rustic Stone our philosophy is simple. We source the best seasonal ingredients, then we apply simple techniques to extract the most flavour, while giving you the information you need to add nutrition and structure to your diet. The produce I’ve chosen and our demand for freshness, is the cornerstone of our Rustic idea, while providing a healthy but affordable eating approach.” - Dylan McGrath
17 South Great Georges Street T: 01 707 9596
“Quite simply a menu designed to support the very best of homegrown produce. The food is assembled in an uncomplicated way that relies on its freshness to shine through as a real hero. We are committed to bringing to the plate all that is great from the best of Irish produce, at a time when its is important to support the value, the effort and commitment of our Irish producers and farmers. These people are an inspiration to us; through their passion they are continuously evolving with a determination to be proud of what we do on this rapidly developing food island”. - Dylan McGrath
Taste at Rustic is an exciting new restaurant in the heart of Dublin City. A new food experience by Dylan McGrath to explore the idea of flavour, tastes and in the room cooking, while being influenced by Japan, Spain and South America. “I love the flavour release of some of these cooking techniques. I find something special in the use of their immediate, quick heat and I hope you do too”. - Dylan McGrath
Taste at Rustic 17 South Great George’s St. Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: +353 (0) 1 7079596
bar layout Centre Tapas y it C ng ti ci Dublin’s dining ed “This ex e new hub of gn th in ed on ti at I have desi posi ing concept th vation in small ar sh a is e en no sc e, seasonal, in u’re to allow simpl ts of flavour. So whether yo or rs ow bu sh e yl om tapas st g back fr in m co e, tr su ea ca al going to the th e company of friends, this th be just enjoying ways fun and engaging to al n”. experience is eaten on the ru or er ov d mulle
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- Dylan McGra
Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com
ial, Fade St Soc Dublin 2 om 4-6 Fade St, eetsocial.c tr s e d fa 6 6 T:01 60400
SPENCER LOWELL
DESTINATION | LOS ANGELES
SLEEP AT … HIPSTER HAVEN Originally built in 1927 as the United Artists Theater, The Ace includes a concert venue, stylish rooftop bar and smart OLD restaurant called LA Chapter, HOLLYWOOD all in the heart of the Opened in 1919, The Musso blossoming Broadway & Frank Grill is as famous for its District. The rooms boast steaks and martinis as for being a Navajo-print pillows, prix-fixe, for example, magnet for the old Hollywood elite. Hollyhock-houseboth of which stack up Charlie Chaplain, Marilyn Monroe and inspired tile work and to even the most polished Liz Taylor are just a few of the regulars cow-hide rugs, making it establishments in other who once graced their booths. Order the ultimate hip hideaway major metropolitan areas. a gin martini and see why it’s still in Downtown LA. Rooms But where LA really gets one of LA’s most iconic bars. mussoandfrank.com from $229. (929 South exciting is on the street. That’s Broadway, +1 213 623 3233; where you’ll get a delicious taste of acehotel.com) the city’s diversity. With a population BEACH CHIC The Rose Hotel has an airy, minimalist, design-forward vibe that fits right into its nearby digs of the oh-so-stylish Abbot Kinney neighbourhood. Ample natural light illuminates repurposed furniture, on which you can lounge while sipping Blue Bottle coffee or a cold-pressed juice. Bonus: free bikes are available too. Rooms from $190. (15 Rose Avenue, Venice, +1 310 450 3474; therosehotelvenice.com) DESIGN FIND A five-room boutique property in Los Feliz, Hotel Covell feels more B&B than hotel, perhaps because the well-appointed rooms are housed inside a former 1930s Spanish apartment building. They’ve been updated to include Smeg refrigerators and Chemex coffee brewers, and there’s a communal shaded rooftop deck. Rooms from $245. (4626 Hollywood Boulevard, +1 323 660 4300; hotelcovell.com) 64 |
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Top left, sun trap at The Ace hotel, above, anything goes on Venice Beach and, right, street truck treats at Leo’s Taco Truck. Opposite, clockwise from top left, chef Chris Oh of Hanjip; propping up the bar at Gracias Madre; pretty Chinatown; Grand Central Market in Downtown; Marnie Herald – songwriter and market director of Kit and Ace – with her beloved pooch George; LA hiking; fresh fruit stalls in Santa Monica, and droolsome kimchi fried rice at Hanjip.
of four million, nearly half of its denizens are Hispanic and 15 per cent are of Asian descent. As of 2010, Los Angeles County reported having the largest populations of Burmese, Cambodian, Chinese, Filipino, Indonesian, Korean, Sri Lankan and Thai people outside their home countries. Translation: great international eats. “Los Angeles is essentially the only American city with a truly thriving street food scene,” says Farley Elliott, author of Los Angeles Street Food. “Dozens of regional and cultural flavours converge here, often at the same street corner, making for a really rich and colourful street scene.” Consider it the United Nations of food, with a taste to sate every craving, from regional Mexican tacos to various iterations of Japanese ramen, Korean noodle soups and more. The city’s diversity translates not only into off-the-charts street food – a trip to LA wouldn’t be
complete, after all, without a stop at a truck for seafood tacos at Mariscos Jalisco or a late-night nosh on pineapple-laden al pastor tacos from Leo’s Taco Truck. But it also means that internationally influenced restaurants are cropping up from young, enterprising chefs. At Hanjip (3829 Main Street, Culver City, +1 323 720 8804; hanjip.com), chef Chris Oh is updating traditional Korean barbecue, adding some urban style and upscale polish, with dishes like uni-topped steamed egg custard, and watermelon soju spiked with “fruity pebbles and pop rocks”.
3 MUST-DOS WALK One of the greatest parts about the city is the emergence of even more walkable neighbourhoods, such as the up-and-already-there Highland Park, centered on York Boulevard. This bohemian enclave consists of a dynamic mix of nouveau hipster and Latino culture: think vintage shops, cool cafés, and affordable, authentic Mexican restaurants – the best of all worlds, really. HIKE Need to work off those tacos? The beauty of the city is that there’s plenty of wonderful scenic hikes through the Santa Monica Mountains, with walks at every level. A popular one is viewing the Hollywood sign via traversing the chaparral from Griffith Park, but check out less touristy options on Modern Hiker. (modernhiker.com/la-hiking) GALLERY HOP Chung King Road in Chinatown is full of eclectic galleries from up-and-coming artists that come alive on select Saturday nights. Check in with the neighbourhood’s website (chinatownla.com) for openings; then take a self-guided tour through the galleries. Be sure to fuel up at some of the area’s favourite casual restaurants, too: Pok Pok, RamenChamp, Chego, and Burgerlords are all interesting stop-offs.
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies direct from Dublin to LOS ANGELES four time s per week from May 4.
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EAT AT … MARKET HOPPING Get up early on Wednesday or Saturday and head to the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market. In the later hours, it can be a bit of a tourist mob, but the morning finds chefs interacting with community farmers. Or, if you’re in the Downtown area, be sure to check out the newly revitalised food stalls inside the Grand Central Market. (317 South Broadway, +1 213 624 2378; grandcentralmarket.com) CREATIVE CAFFEINATION LA’s cycling
culture and the vibrant third-wave craft coffee scene collide at The Wheelhouse, a new café and bicycle shop in the heart of the ultra-hip Arts District neighborhood in Downtown LA. Sip on expertlysourced roasts pulled by pro baristas while chatting with the local creative community. (1375 East Sixth Street #6; thewheelhouse.bike) NOODLE SLURPING Strolling down Sawtelle Boulevard, also known as Historic Japantown, on a Friday night feels like you’ve been transported to Tokyo. Boba shops (bubble tea) and kitschy Japanese design shops spill over into the streets as scenesters slurp on some of the best tsukemen – thick, udon style noodles that are dipped into rich korobuta pork broth – this side of the Pacific at Tsujita. (2057 Sawtelle Boulevard, +1 310 231 7373; tsujita-la.com) 66 |
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Top, lively Santa Monica, and above, bike-fanciers, The Wheelhouse. Left, smoked shiitake, egg and avocado toast at Highland Park’s Civil Coffee; below, join the line at Tsujita and herb central at Maggie’s Farm, Santa Monica’s Farmers’ Market.
DESTINATION | LOS ANGELES
In Downtown, Ray Garcia at Broken Spanish (1050 South Flower Street, Los Angeles, +1 213 749 1460; brokenspanish. com) is putting his farmers’ market fresh spin on modern, LA-meets-Mexico cuisine, making lamb neck tamales with oyster mushrooms and Oaxaca cheese and camotes (Japanese sweet potato with braised pig tail, trompa, chile de arbol, and verjus). Of course, one can hardly speak about the food AGAVE scene in Los Angeles without mentioning GALORE the abundance of “Vegan” and “Mexican” aren’t common bedfellows, but seasonal produce at
SMART TIPS DON’T MISS The first Friday of ever y month from February through June, Los Angeles Natural History Museum transforms into a food truck and music-fuelled party. Top-notch local public radio station KCRW spins tunes while visitors of all ages are allowed to stay late for a night at the museum. nhm.org KEEPING IT WHEEL On May 15, roads throughout southeast LA will be closed for the ever-popular CicLAvia car-free cycle rides. Travellers can weave through Huntington Park, Walnut Park, South Gate, Firestone, Lynwood and historic Watts on bikes, tricycles, skateboards and strollers on the mapped- out, auto -free routes. The event always includes loads of live music, street performances and food trucks, with shop owners and restaurants readied for the masses. ciclavia.org Find out more ways to Fly Smart by visiting aerlingus.com.
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Gracias Madre has mastered the art of plant-based South of the Border cuisine. Also: Its extensive selection of mezcals and tequilas can be sipped either solo or in cocktail form, but be sure to do it outside on the stunning hacienda-style patio. graciasmadreweho.com
Fed and watered – stupendously good vegan Mexican grub at Gracias Madre, top and, right, Bryan Bruce of Walker Inn (Normandie Club, in Koreatown) concocting a Turkish Ice Cream cocktail: almond rum, nocino liqueur, goat’s milk, honey ice cream.
the ready year-round. According to the California Department of Food and Agriculture, the state produces almost half of the fruits, nuts and veggies grown in the entire country. Take a trip to one of LA’s many farmers’ markets, which are a veritable playground for enthusiastic cooks seeking the freshest ingredients, as well as those just out for a good foodie browse. Perusing the stalls with the local community, you’ll witness a kaleidoscope of colours, flavours, international ingredients, and yes, perhaps even a celebrity or two. (Hey, actors have to eat too.) Only in LA.
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SMART EDIT | GARDENS
GARDENS
to colour you glad
Guaranteed to put a spring in your step – our edit of your favourite green spaces.
ARIANE CAUDERLIER
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You say, we say ...
Monet’s Garden, France We’ve all seen the paintings, bought the gallery gift shop tea towel. But the real-life splendour of Claude Monet’s gardens in Giverny, 75 kilometres north-west of Paris, is exceptional. The French Impressionist lived here for 43 years, depicting his weeping willows, Japanese ponds and, of course, water lilies. Don’t miss Says horticulturalist and GYO enthusiast, Gareth Austin (@GardenerGareth) on Twitter: “Monet’s garden in May is a breathtaking sight, especially if you like bold colours.” fondation-monet.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Paris daily.
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he clocks have gone forward. Days are longer and brighter. Tiresome boots are now rivalled by shoes, and thermal undergarments are being cast off quicker than one can say “FROLICKING LAMBS!” Yes – spring is officially here, and, with it come myriad reasons to leave hibernation and gambol into nature. Parks and gardens across the land are now bursting with colour, offering welcome diversions from winter’s 50 shades of grey. We asked after your favourite parks and gardens; those beloved green spaces that clear your head and fill your heart with unparalleled joy. This is the result. So whether you’re longing to tiptoe through the tulips, learn your Armeria from your Embothrium – or simply shelter from the rain in a hothouse, read on for our greatest, greenfingered hits ...
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Kew Gardens, UK
MARK HADDEN
Founded in 1840, Kew now boasts the world’s largest collection of living plants; its herbarium alone features seven million preserved plant specimens. Tweeted journalist/author Neil Hegarty (@nphegarty) of this jewel in the London Borough of Richmond’s crown: “@kewgardens for sparkling glasshouses, feasts of flora, superior cakes – and a #WorldHeritage site like no other!” Don’t miss New exhibition The Hive by Wolfgang Buttress, which was the centrepiece in the UK Pavilion at Milan Expo 2015. This 17-metre high, 40-tonne aluminium structure is a multi-sensory spectacle for all ages and opens in June. kew.org
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow daily, and from Dublin, Cork and Belfast to Gatwick.
Keukenhof, Netherlands Some 40 kilometres south-west of Amsterdam is a 32-hectare tapestry of 800 tulip varieties that must be seen to be believed. “Pop a picnic in your bike basket and prepare for some riotous colour and bonkers panoramas,” says Cara’s junior editor, Lauren Heskin. “Make sure not to miss the mesmerising commercial tulip fields that surround the gardens
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either.” The only downside, Tweets horticulturalist, Gareth Austin, is that “it’ll make your own bulb displays at home look pathetic!” Don’t miss Any of it – Keukenhof is open annually from late March until mid-May. keukenhof.nl
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam four times daily, and from Cork twice daily.
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NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOE WAINWRIGHT
SMART EDIT | GARDENS
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Hidcote, UK “One of England’s finest gardens, @HidcoteNT is made up of outdoor ‘rooms’ and each one is a masterpiece,” reckons Joe Wainwright (@joewphotography), photographer and member of the Garden Media Guild and Professional Garden Photographers’ Association (so he should know). Hidcote Manor, a National Trust property in England’s Cotswolds, was established by Lawrence Johnston, an American exsoldier, who invited his first paid visitors into his oasis in 1949. And which ‘rooms’ tickle Joe’s fancy the most? “It would be like choosing a favourite child – it can’t be done.” True that. Don’t miss Kill two birds with one stone by visiting the adjacent Kiftsgate Court Gardens. nationaltrust.org.uk
5 PIOTR DYBOWSKI
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Birmingham daily.
Cara editor Lucy White admits that it wasn’t just the Arabic architecture, orange trees, cypresses, roses and myrtle that enticed her to the Alhambra in Granada, but the Spanish poet/playwright Federico García Lorca (1898-1936). “As a teenager I saw an old photo of him, cross-legged, beside one of its pools, and I pretentiously vowed to do the same. Except, on my visit, I had heatstroke so didn’t dare get too close to any water ...” Don’t miss Admission. Tickets go on sale up to three months in advance. alhambradegranada.org
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NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/PAUL HARRIS
Alhambra Palace, Spain
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SMART EDIT | GARDENS
AL HIGGINS
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Garnish Island, Ireland “The fun starts on the ferry,” says Cara editor Lucy White, who enjoyed “tootling around Seal Island to spy on the nonplussed blubbery beasts” before arriving at Garnish in Bantry Bay. The brainchild of John Annan Bryce in the early 1900s, this West Corkonian Eden has a unique microclimate caused by the Gulf Stream. Celery pine from New Zealand, Himalayan cedar, and ornamental plants from, well, everywhere are here – as is a Greek temple, an Italian Garden and Martello tower – creating “a magic so bygone that you half-expect to see fairies frolicking under a toadstool ring,” says Lucy. Don’t miss The restored Bryce House, which opened to the public last year. garnishisland.com
National Botanic Gardens, Ireland “Looking forward to visiting the fabulous #botanicgardens in Glasnevin for some spring garden inspiration!” enthused Dee Sewell (@Greensideupveg) on Twitter, of Dublin’s loveliest free attraction that dates back to 1795. Horticulturalists, tourists and families flock to its 19.5 hectares, where splendid glasshouses – designed by Richard Turner of Kew fame – nurture exotic flora. It’s not just a pretty face either: biodiversity and sustainability programmes are also incubated here. Don’t miss Dublin Orchid Fair on April 23-24, or join a wildlife or walking tour. botanicgardens.ie 74 |
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ITALIAN NATIONAL TOURIST BOARD
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Borromean Islands, Italy Make like a plant-fancying Visconti at the Borromean Islands on Lake Maggiore. Lavish gardens and palazzos have been wowing visitors to the Isola Bella, Isola dei Pescatori and Isola Madre since the 16th century, among them aristocrats, artists and writers, including Ernest Hemingway, Napolean Bonaparte and Gustav Flaubert, who wrote: “Isola Madre is a paradise on earth. Trees with leaves made golden by the sunlight.” On Twitter, @morethanabeach agrees: “No trip to #Stresa or Lake Maggiore is complete without visiting the Borromean Islands; Bella, Madre & Pescatori. Simply stunning.” Don’t miss The English Gardens, all aflutter with peacocks.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Milan Malpensa six times per week.
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SMART EDIT | GARDENS
9 Brooklyn Botanic Garden, USA
ANTONIO ROSARIO
New York is known as a concrete jungle but in Brooklyn’s Prospect Park neighbourhood dwells a 21-hectare slice of bucolic bliss. Founded in 1910, it was the first American public park to have a Japanese garden. It also has a Bonsai Museum, rose garden, an aquatic plant house and attractions aplenty for kids. Even better: “You won’t want to miss Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Bronx Zoo and Jewish Museum – all free at certain times!” Tweeted guided tour merchants, Walks of New York (@WalksofNewYork). Yes, entrance to BBG is free every Tuesday, and every Saturday 10am to noon. Don’t miss Cherry blossoms, which pop annually from late March to mid-May. Make like a leaf peeper and follow Cherry Watch on BBG’s website. bbg.org
The balmy biomes of Cornwall’s Eden Project opened in March 2001, its former life as a china clay pit transformed into a space-age complex of flora and exhibits. Lorraine Bull, development officer at Irish Wildlife Trust, says: “What better place to learn about biodiversity than by experiencing a tropical rainforest, smelling sweet Mediterranean plants, or looking for bees and butterflies in the wonderful outdoor gardens?” Don’t miss The Eden Sessions (edensessions.com) concert series this June and July. edenproject.com
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Eden Project, UK
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newquay five times per week.
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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York up to three times daily, and from Shannon daily.
OVER TO YOU
In the next issue we’re compiling your Ten Favourite Summer Festivals at Aer Lingus destinations. Have your say – and post pics – @CARAMagazine, using the hashtag #CaraYSWS.
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DESTINATION | PULA
The steep, lush coast of Istria, near Lovran.
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CAUGHT in the
Idyll
With its crystal-clear waters and charming coastal towns, the Istrian coastline is unsurprisingly a magnet for sun-seekers. WORDS ISABEL PUTINJA
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ISTRIA TOURIST BOARD
DESTINATION | PULA
o find the best beach in Istria – Croatia’s westernmost region – you have to ask a local. Everyone has a favourite, and details of “their spot” will be happily shared. But be prepared for an adventure well off the signposted roads and along meandering paths that can only be negotiated on foot: when friends took me to their favourite swimming spot last summer, it entailed descending a rocky embankment and sliding down a slippery rock into the sea. But clear waters and an almost empty beach were my reward. Wherever you are in Istria, the sea is never far away. After all, this is a peninsula bordered by the Adriatic Sea on all three sides, and the length of its coastline is 539 kilometres, with all islands and islets included. Even from the hilltop village I live in, in central Istria, I can see a sliver of the sea on a clear day if I look towards the east.
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Not surprisingly, the region’s history and local culture are intrinsically tied to the sea. Many parts of Istria belonged to the Venetian Republic’s vast sea empire from the 11th to the 18th century that had spread along the Adriatic coast. Its vestiges are seen in the architectural details found in many Istrian towns and villages: the winged lion of St Mark, symbol of the Republic of Venice, smiles down at visitors from arched gateways, and many towns have a loggia, a covered gallery, which was once the town’s meeting place and centre of its public and political life. During the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Istria’s maritime importance grew when the southernmost city of Pula became its main port and naval base in 1866. Today, the sea is what draws visitors to Istria’s many scenic coastal towns and neat expanses of white pebble beaches. Waters here are warm enough for swimming from early June until the end of September and, although you won’t
Crystal clear – the turquoise waters of Rabac, a small fishing port below the medieval town of Labin on the eastern coastline, are ripe for a dip.
find wide expanses of fine sand, the water is remarkably crystal-clear. Public beaches are also impeccably well maintained: in 2015, 38 of Istria’s beaches and three marinas were awarded Blue Flag status, meaning they meet international standards for water quality, cleanliness and safety. Istria’s best-known seaside destination is picturesque Rovinj, a charming circular-shaped town of colourful lime-plastered buildings jutting out into the sea off the west coast. The best way to explore it is to get lost in the small, centuries-old cobblestone lanes of the old town that wind up to the 18th-century Church of St Euphemia (the city’s patron saint). Its 60-metre-high bell tower dominates the skyline and resembles that of St Mark’s Basilica in Venice. The climb up 200 rickety steps is worth it for the fabulous views from the top. It was on the door of an art gallery that I spotted a hastily written note that said: “I go fishing. Back in one hour”, reminding
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DESTINATION | PULA
SLEEP AT … SLEEK Named after the bay it’s located on, Hotel Lone, right, is a chic, contemporary five-star – and Croatia’s first Design Hotel, created by Croatian designers. The complex includes indoor and outdoor pools, a spa, sunbathing terrace, a seafront promenade and a swanky pebble beach. Double rooms from €105 per night. (Luje Adamovica 31, Rovinj, +385 52 800 250; lonehotel.com) POSH Built in 1884 during the Austro-Hungarian Empire, historic Hotel Kvarner was Istria’s first luxury seaside hotel. This fully restored, four-star property still has an atmosphere of old world charm, with a neo-classical facade and large ballroom. Other notable
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amenities are its indoor and outdoor pools, large sea-facing terrace and private beach. Double rooms from €92 per night. (Pava Tomašica 2, Opatija, +385 51 710 444; remisens.com/en/hotelkvarner) SELF-CATERING Casa Bura is a four-bedroom, contemporarystyle villa with floor-to-ceiling windows and a large outdoor terrace offering scenic views of the sea and nearby islands. A path leads to the beachfront and it’s only a four-minute drive to Ravni beach from here. From €270 per night – minimum five nights. (Istarska Županija, Drenje, +385 99 675 9119; casabura.eu)
me that fishing is still very much a way of life here. Stroll along the harbour in the mornings and you’ll see local fishermen arriving with their catch as seagulls hover overhead expectantly. The batana, a traditional, flat-bottomed wooden fishing boat and symbol of the city’s fishing community and maritime heritage, has been preserved in a small, unique museum dedicated to this modest fishing vessel (see
EAT AT … BIJOU Hidden on a narrow street in coastal Novigrad, Damir & Ornella has just six tables and no menu. On offer is an Istrian take on sashimi: fresh raw seafood prepared at the table in front of you and served with local ingredients like olive oil and white truffles. Their innovative fare has not gone unnoticed – they’re in the Gault & Millau guide and on France’s La Liste. (Zidine 5, Novigrad, +385 52 758 134; damirornella.com)
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TASTINGS Another of the three Croatian entries on La Liste’s outstanding restaurants of 2015, Monte in Rovinj’s old town is known for its creative five- or seven-course tasting menus made with seasonal local ingredients. Vegetarian options are also available. (Montalbano 75, Rovinj, +385 52 830 203; monte.hr)
Batana Museum under ‘Don’t Miss’, page 84). Of course, Rovinj is also a popular beach destination. South of the harbour lies swanky Lone Bay catering to guests staying at the adjacent high-end hotels Lone (see ‘Sleep at’, opposite), Monte Mulini and Eden. For those who prefer a quieter scene in a natural setting, it’s worth exploring a bit further south to the rocky shoreline and well-maintained public beach of Zlatni Rt (Golden Cape), part of a forest reserve with imported trees from Mexico, America and Japan. Further north along Istria’s west coast is Poreč, another picturesque seaside town whose best-known attraction is the Euphrasian Basilica (see ‘Don’t Miss’, page 84) and its fabulously preserved Byzantine mosaics dating back to the fourth and fifth centuries, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Poreč is also Istria’s busiest tourist centre where some of the largest beachside hotels and resorts are located, such as Zelena Laguna, popular with families because of the many water sports and activities on offer. While the west coast is overrun with tourists in summer months, locals head to the beaches of the rocky and picturesque east coast. It was in Opatija that the peninsula’s first luxury seaside hotel, Hotel Kvarner (see ‘Sleep at’, opposite) opened in 1884, under the AustroHungarian Empire. Today Opatija still has a fashionable feel to it and is full of Austrian-style cafés, palatial hotels and upscale shops. Just eight kilometres south is Lovran, a lush and laid-back town of 19th-century Italian-style villas. This is where the 12-kilometre-long Franz Joseph I
Opposite, historical and colourful Rovinj and, below, clean lines at Hotel Lone. This page, clockwise from top left, green shutters in Rovinj; romantic restaurant Monte; espresso at one of Lovran’s Austrianstyle cafés; going for gold at the Euphrasian Basilica.
VISTAS A table with a view is guaranteed at Villa Ariston, thanks to its romantic sea-facing terrace. This fine-dining restaurant gets rave reviews for setting, service and quality. Seafood dominates, but vegetarians will be surprised by the many plant-based options. (Maršala Tita 179, Opatija, +385 51 271 379; villa-ariston.hr) FRESH CATCH Martin Pescador, in the tiny charming port of Trget, is a small, unassuming restaurant and popular destination for lovers of seafood, which is caught fresh here each morning. Dine al fresco on the terrace overlooking the water. (Trget 20, Trget, +385 52 544 976)
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DON’T MISS …
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.MARITIME Occupying a small, two-storey
sea-facing house, the Batana Museum in Rovinj contains a permanent multimedia exhibition dedicated to the batana, Rovinj’s traditional fishing boat. The museum showcases maritime and fishing objects donated by local residents and features a slideshow of the twomonth process to build a vessel. (Obala Pina Budicina 2, Rovinj, +385 52 812 593; batana.org)
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.ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE The Euphrasian Basilica in Porecˇ is the most complete surviving complex of early Byzantine architecture, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its fabulously preserved mosaics date back to fourth and fifth century BC, and are considered to be some of the finest examples of Byzantine art in the world. (Eufrazijeva ulica 22, Porecˇ, +385 52 451 784)
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.COASTAL WALK The official name of
the Seaside Promenade from Lovran to Volosko is the Franz Joseph I Promenade – named after the Austrian emperor who used to holiday here – but this 12-kilometre pathway, pictured, is known locally by its Italian appellation, the Lungomare. The shady walkway winds along the coast, past handsome bays and beaches, enchanting gardens and many beautiful examples of Italian-style villas.
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DESTINATION | PULA
SMART TIPS
GNAM-GNAM ASPARAGUS FESTIVAL April 30, Novigrad Asparagus is a local speciality in Istria where it grows in the wild from mid- March until late April. One of the region’s many gastronomic festivals is dedicated to this wild plant and culinary speciality, offering the chance to sample dishes made with young asparagus shoots and other local specialities.
ISTRIA TOURIST BOARD
AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PULA three times per week from May 19.
LIGHTHOUSE FESTIVAL May 25-2 9, Porecˇ This underground electronic music festival is organised by the people from a popular Vienna nightclub, Pratersauna, in collaboration with a host of local and European partners. The venue will be the pebble beaches of Poreˇc. lighthousefestival.tv
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ISTRA BIKE
VINISTRA May 13-15 , Porecˇ The 23rd edition of this international wine exhibition showcases the many highquality wines produced in the Istrian region and beyond. The three-day event includes wine tastings, presentations and a competition. vinistra.hr
Clockwise from top left, the curved coastline at Porecˇ; rocking out in Rovinj; Grožnjan grooves; cyclists follow the LabinRabac route. Left, a boat awaiting its sea legs in Volosko, on the Kvarner Gulf.
promenade (see “Don’t Miss”, previous) – named after the Austrian emperor and completed in 1911 – follows the coastline up to Opatija and then on to the harbour of Volosko, passing scenic bays, rambling villas, a marina full of luxury yachts and palazzo-style hotels. Forty-five kilometres south of Lovran, just below the beautiful medieval hilltop town of Labin, is the beach resort town of Rabac, which also gets its fair share of sun worshippers but fewer than the west coast. The well-maintained, manmade pebble beaches of Girandella and Golubjera are popular swimming spots, but explore the
area on foot and you’re sure to find one of the many quiet and secluded coves. Further south (13 kilometres from Labin) is the lovely stretch of beach at Ravni, a spot popular with windsurfers. Istria’s many picturesque coastal towns, family-friendly beach resorts, luxury seaside hotels, Blue Flag beaches and scenic rocky coves have a lot to offer sea and sun worshippers. But to find that perfect stretch of beach, be prepared to veer off the beaten track. Or just ask a local – but be warned that everyone insists that “theirs” is the most scenic, with the clearest water and, most importantly, the furthest away from the tourist crowds.
FARM FRESH FARM restaurants are Irish owned, family run restaurants in the heart of Dublin, Ireland, with premises near to Trinity College, the Lord Mayor’s Mansion House, Grafton Street, Dáil Éireann (the Irish Parliament) and St. Stephen’s Green. ›
Organic locally sourced ingredients.
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Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…
One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre. Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink. Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.
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CITY BREAK | MURCIA
Light relief – Oculus, the new World Trade Center Transportation Hub by Santiago Calatrava, replaces the PATH station that was destroyed in the 9/11 terrorist attacks.
Underground,
OVERGROUND Sightseeing by day, immersive theatre by night – New York is a tale of two cities for the culturally curious. WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS RICH GILLIGAN
“N
ow, that was the most erotic experience of my entire life …” exhaled my friend rapturously at the Paramount Hotel. She had just been languorously spoon-fed a dessert by a performer at Queen of the Night (queenofthenightnyc.com), an interactive theatrical production where the line between the audience and performance is heart-poundingly blurred. Earlier, we had been treated to a cocktail of acrobatics, contemporary dance, aerial feats, pyrotechnics and – be still my beating heart – men with guyliner. The dialogue-free narrative of a young woman’s sexual awakening is arguably secondary to the stunts in the hotel’s Diamond Horseshow Club, where punters are invited to join the story. Even the lip-smacking feast, included in the show, was pure theatre. (The Queen’s reign here has since ended
after a successful two-year stretch – it had only intended to run for six weeks – but she’s relaunching in a new venue this 2016 so keep checking their website. And don’t forget your kohl, lads). In many ways the day had started as it meant to go on: elaborately and aerially, at the One World Observatory (285 Fulton Street, +1 844 696 1776; oneworldobservatory. com), where Manhattan and its surrounding boroughs expose themselves after a flashy “reveal” from the skyscraper’s 102nd floor. The 60-second elevator ride alone is an experience; wrap-around CGI of the island’s topographical history in a New York minute. The views are undoubtedly incredible. This King Kong’s-eye vista also provides a sombre reminder of a nearby landmark: the must-visit 9/11 Memorial (180 Greenwich Street, +1 212 312 8800; 911memorial.org), whose miniature black pools await ominously below. Up close they are monumental –
DESTINATION | NEW YORK
Sights in the city – the evocative 9/11 Memorial, right. Below, Ellis Island is a must-visit for all ages, and, bottom, no trip to New York is complete without seeing the Statue of Liberty.
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NEW YORK up to three times daily, and from Shannon daily. Guests have the option to connect to over 100 cities in North America with partner airlines.
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two sunken chasms, whose gushing waters create a suitably meditative white noise. Surrounding foliage and an air of contemplation help to soften the effect of the former Twin Towers’ deep wounds. The museum, meanwhile, is a beautifully conceived homage to those who died in 2001. Artefacts, news footage, exhibits and interactive memorials at once inform and unsettle the viewer. After visiting such an intense landmark you might want to eschew one of the many cheap and cheerful Shake Shacks (shakeshack. com) – burger and frozen custard anyone? – for a more contemplative lunch at, for instance, Le District’s Beaubourg (225 Liberty Street, +1 212 981 8589; ledistrict.com). This nouveau brasserie at Brookfield Place shopping mall has a gem of an
outdoor terrace overlooking the harbour, where you can play Spot the Banker (one yacht boasted the immortal moniker: Best Revenge), while feasting on moules frites, escargot and fiendishly moreish fresh breads. Another Manhattan must-do is catching the ferry to Ellis Island (libertyellisfoundation.org). Not only does it take in glorious views of Lower Manhattan but also of the Statue of Liberty, whose potent iconography never fails to move even the repeat visitor to New York. The journey also echoes the passage of the 12 million immigrants who crossed the immigration centre’s threshold between 1892 and 1954. The French Renaissance Revival building has been pristinely
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DESTINATION | NEW YORK
Winging it – a butterfly chows down at the Natural History Museum and, below, leisurely lunching at Beaubourg.
EAT AT … BREAKFAST The Ludlow (see ‘Sleep at’, opposite) deserves another mention for its restaurant Dirty French; an eclectic eatery combining French culinary staples with New York swagger. My Crêpes Américaines with preserved lemons and spiced maple syrup were a revelation – light and fluffy on the inside, just-right-crispy on the outside. Fwoar. (180 Ludlow Street, +1 212 254 3000; dirtyfrench.com)
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LUNCH If you fancy waxing lyrical in the same spot as Dorothy Parker and her New Yorker cohorts – check out The Round Table at the historic Algonquin Hotel, near Times Square. Their roasted shrimp lasagne set me up for the rest of the day (or was it the dirty martini at its Blue Bar afterwards ...?). See if you can spot the resident cat on the way in. (59 West 44th Street, +1 212 840 6800; algonquinhotel.com)
DINNER Despite its name, Soho/Nolita’s Delicatessen is more smart-casual burger joint than a deli – and a tasty one at that. Comfort food abounds, including several different riffs on mac‘n’cheese, plus hearty kale salads, buttermilk-fried chicken and truffle fries. Wear elasticated trousers and/or a tunic. (54 Prince Street, +1 212 226 0211; delicatessennyc.com)
SLEEP AT …
restored to its former 19181924 glory and is as evocative as it is impressive. Audio tours and self-guided exhibits – including the ‘Peopling of America’ gallery, which opened last September – evenhandedly document the country’s immigration experience right up to the present day, making for a fascinating excursion. In extreme contrast, light relief can be found later at the retrofabulous Beauty Bar in Midtown (see ‘Drink at’, page 94), which I stumbled across on the off-beat online magazine booyorkcity. com. What a find! Martinis and manicures here are just $10, libations served by immaculately turned out staff (Victory rolls, rouge lips). We took our seats beneath vintage, domed hair dryers before whooping along to burlesque acts in the tiny back room. If you like dive bars with a twist, shake, rattle and roll, be sure to raise a glass here. Soothe your throbbing temples the following day at the American Museum of Natural History’s delightful live butterfly exhibition (until May 29; Central Park West at 79th Street, +1 212 769 5100; amnh.org). From September every year, visitors can enter the balmy conservatory – and pray that a
UPPER WEST SIDE Beside the venerable theatre with which it shares its name, Hotel Beacon makes for a mighty fine crash-pad in the heart of Manhattan. Spacious rooms come with handy kitchenettes, so you can bring snacks back from the huge Fairway grocery across the street. Grab a double-aspect room if you can and watch the sun rise over that unmistakable skyline. Rooms from $374. (2130 Broadway at 75th Street, +1 212 787 1100; beaconhotel.com)
Lepidoptera might alight on their person. Alas, no such spectacle happened on my visit, but the sight of up to 500 butterflies and moths from South, Central and North America, Africa and Asia, all under one roof is quite wonderful – not least the chrysalis cabinet, from which newbies are released every morning. More sanctuary can be found at the Whitney Museum of American Art (99 Gansevoort
MIDTOWN Another fantastic bolthole is The William, which feels more like an apartment. Aimed at both the extended-stay and business traveller, it has 33 big and bright guest suites, each of which boasts a swish kitchenette, Apple TV and L’Occitane toiletries. Terrace suites are just marvellous, and there’s Raines Law Room, a renowned speakeasy bar, and also The Shakespeare Pub, downstairs. Rooms from $315. (24 East 39th Street, +1 646 922 8600; thewilliamnyc.com) Top, Stephen ‘ESPO’ Powers’ street art in downtown Brooklyn. Above, Chuck Close’s portrait of his composer friend, Philip Glass, at the Whitney. Top right, Irish pride – The William hotel’s John Connolly.
LOWER EAST SIDE The rooms at hipster magnet The Ludlow may be bijou but that’s where the modesty ends – en suite bathrooms are a stylish, zeitgeisty mélange of marble, brass and lightbulb mirrors, while the lobby bar is all exposed brickwork, comfy leather sofas and roaring fireplace. Also, despite the buzzy location, we found zero street noise – bonus. Rooms from $295. (180 Ludlow Street, +1 212 432 1818; ludlowhotel.com) AERLINGUS.COM |
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DESTINATION | NEW YORK
DRINK AT …
SMART TIPS IN THE KNOW Find out what’s hip and happening ahead of your visit to the Big Apple at nycgo.com, which details ever ything from suggested itineraries to Broadway shows, from hotel reservations to breakdowns of each borough. IN A BUN DLE If your itinerary is jam-packed with star attractions, save up to 42 per cent on regular admission prices with a New York CityPAS S. It’s a booklet of cut-price tickets to six hotspots, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Top of the Rock Observation Deck and the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, to be used over nine days. Adults $116, ages 6-1 $92. citypass. com/newyork
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ROOFTOP Cocktails with a view don’t come much finer than at the small-but-perfectly-formed Spyglass, left and right, which has a fantastic eyeful of the Empire State Building from its outdoor terrace. Reserve a seat in time for a sundowner tipple and watch the city melt from day to night. (Archer Hotel, 47 West 38th Street, +1 212 730 0538; spyglassnyc.com)
Nest cocktail and, boy, did my tastebuds party: Maker’s Mark, Connemara honey, chipotle, angostura bitters and brandied, salted cherries. (159 East Houston Street, +1 646 861 3342; thelatelate.com)
NOUVEAU IRISH The Late Late is much too cool to conform to the usual Oirish pub trappings. This understated boozer – some chintz wallpaper here, a Guinness cocktails menu there, an artisanal Tayto sambo in my mouth – is the brainchild of Dubliner James Morrissey and Florence + the Machine guitarist Rob Ackroyd. I opted for the Hornet’s
RETRO Have your nails done at The Beauty Bar, below, where burlesque artist Lefty Lucy administers “Feminist Manicures” (the middle fingernail is painted a different colour). Afterwards, rock out to soul, funk, punk, disco and one-hit-wonders after catching a comedy show in the back room. (231 East 14th Street, +1 212 539 1389; thebeautybar.com)
Spyglass’ Kierstin Hogan on cocktail patrol.
Street, +1 212 570 3600; whitney. org), which reopened at its Meatpacking District location in May 2015. Overlooking the Hudson River, and designed by architect Renzo Piano to the tune of $422 million, this nine-storey colossus is exceptional, from its vast, columnfree galleries showcasing more than 600 artworks from 400 artists, including mega-weights Willem de Kooning, Jackson Pollock, Josef Albers and Cindy Sherman. (In total, the Whitney’s permanent collection comprises 22,000 artworks from the 20th and 21st century). With its arsenal of art, outdoor terraces and chef Michael “Gramercy Tavern” Anthony’s restaurant and café, you can easily lose a whole afternoon here after tramping the High Line, and before sampling the neighbourhood’s notoriously hip nightlife. We, however, had a date with Macbeth, sort of, at the mythic McKittrick Hotel (530 West 27th Street, +1 212 904 1883; mckittrickhotel.com). Since 2011, this former warehouse has been
DESTINATION | NEW YORK
occupied by Sleep No More; a thrillingly immersive, interactive, site-specific work by the British theatre company Punchdrunk. It’s Shakespeare as reimagined by the likes of David Lynch and Alfred Hitchcock – and is probably one of the most unnerving pieces of theatre you’ll ever see. There’s no auditorium, proscenium arch or spoken word. The audience wears eerie commedia dell’arte-style masks and walks freely between the rooms, while scenes happen simultaneously across its five storeys. You can rifle through diaries, drawers, and chase characters down stairwells. “Let not light see my black and deep desires …” says Macbeth, and in these darkened set-pieces, it certainly takes a while before your eyes adjust. And when they do: “Is this a dagger which I see before me?” Perhaps. Or it could also be a living statue, a padded cell or a violent pas de deux between two characters in a bathtub. Little wonder there are whole blogs dedicated to the show and its seemingly limitless possibilities, some die-hard fans
Pyro prince – John O’Mahoney, right, performer in the immersive theatre production Queen of the Night. Skyscraper with a view – aerial wonderment, below, at One World Observatory.
seeing the show multiple times. To describe it in greater detail would be to spoil the experience, so my summary in two words: just go. These nighttime kings and queens of New York make for a pleasing frisson from the must-see daytime attractions. So ... when shall we meet again, multifarious, majestic Manhattan?
MORE BITES OF THE BIG APPLE MANHATTAN Get the lay of the land with Walks of New York (walksofnewyork. com), the most recent tour of which takes in the NBC Studios and also TV/movie locations, including sites featured in Wolf of Wall Street (from $94). Gourmands are sure to enjoy their Greenwich Village Food Tour (from $64), while the time-pressed culture vulture should try the two-hour Express Tour of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (from $39). BROOKLYN Peak hipster hasn’t tarnished this still-buzzy and winningly multicultural borough. Get your bearings on a Get Up and Ride Brooklyn Classic Bike Tour (getupandride.com), which explores Bushwick, Williamsburg and Greenpoint over 3.5 hours ($79), or go the whole hog with a five-hour odyssey, visiting the world’s largest rooftop farm, a local coffee roasters and more ($99). RETAIL THERAPY Cut to the chase with a Self-Directed Shopping Tour courtesy of Shop Gotham (shopgotham. com). Whether you’re on a mission to find the city’s best vintage shops, or searching for high-end brands in a specific neighbourhood, let their sartorial insiders sniff out the very best. Bespoke half-day itineraries cost $65, and they also offer sample sale tours from April to June and November and December inclusive.
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Y ONL NS I 30 MOM FR CITY N I L DUB ENTRE C
IRELAND’S ONLY THEME PARK
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SMART EDIT | FAMILY
5
BEST FAMILY FRIENDLY CITIES
Lizzie Gore-Grimes picks destinations where children of all ages are welcome and can have fun.
HIP
BERLIN
PLAY AT Berlin boasts stacks of brilliant (free) themed playgrounds; you can take boisterous ones to clamber around “Ayers Rock” in Mariendorf or play nice with Snow White in Charlottenburg. And if the weather’s warm, why not let them
strip off and splash around one of the city’s many water parks, the one in Volkspark Friedrichshain with its spraying elephants and seals is great fun. For indoor amusement, little ones will love the Labyrinth Children’s Museum (labyrinth-kindermuseum. de), while older gamers will seriously dig the Computer Game Museum (computerspielemuseum.de), complete with original Atari Pong arcade booth. STAY AT Get into the free spirit of the city and opt for the new generation Generator Hostel in Mitte (generatorhostels.com); they offer private family rooms, great value and lots of buzzy, easy sociability. Or opt for the equally modern but more mainstream family-friendly Grimm’s Hotel (grimms-hotel.de).
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin twice daily.
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VISITBERLIN
Even if you rock up with two in the buggy and one in the papoose, you’ll find no frowning faces in this über child-friendly city. Berlin – with its community kitas (child day-care centres) and kindercafés (coffee houses with soft play area for tots) on almost every second street corner – has an arms wide-open policy when it comes to kids. The city’s Prenzlauer Berg district is particularly welcoming, as it’s currently enjoying one of the biggest baby booms in Germany.
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SMART EDIT | FAMILY
COMPACT
DUBLIN Dublin city centre is small and straightforward to navigate, which is a real bonus when you’ve buggies in tow: the Giant’s Garden in Merrion Square, the Science Gallery (dublin.sciencegallery. com) and Book of Kells (tcd.ie) are D2 highlights on foot. But the great thing about Dublin is you can swap urban sprawl for sea in minutes, with a jump on the Dart out to Howth, top right, or Dalkey for a blast of briny fresh air and some of the best seafood in the capital. PLAY AT If the sun shines, earmark a day for the Phoenix Park (one of the largest walled city parks in Europe) where you can rent bikes, spot wild deer, above right, go to the zoo and lunch by the lake at The Boathouse Café (farmleigh.ie). For the year that’s in it, don’t miss the Proclaiming a Republic exhibition at nearby Collins Barracks Museum (museum.ie), where kids can follow the action of the 1916 Rising and marvel at original munitions, bullet-torn rebel uniforms, first-aid 100 |
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kits and more. If it rains (and chances are ...) let the little scamps burn off some much-needed energy at stateof-the-art trampoline park, JumpZone (jumpzone.ie), or lose themselves in the mind-expanding world of Imaginosity children’s museum (imaginosity.ie), above left. STAY AT The Herbert Park Hotel (herbertparkhotel.ie), in leafy Dublin 4, offers families really good four-star comfort, is close to the city, and right beside the Herbert Park with its pond, ducks, top-notch playground and, allimportant, ice-cream van.
Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery
Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area
C
onveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.
When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...
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Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin’
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Irish Music and Traditional Irish Dancing 7 nights-a-week
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Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area
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Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers
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Pour Your Own Pint tables
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Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers
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For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts
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HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.
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Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten for quality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast, pictured below.
Really Good Full Irish Breakfast only
€6.95
*
*This special offer is available Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am. Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.
Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week
M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796
Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin
SMART EDIT | FAMILY
MULTICULTURAL
TORONTO Toronto is such an ethnically diverse city, you couldn’t possibly be plagued by the “I’m borrrred ...” lament with Chinatown, India Town, Greek Town, Little Italy and more to explore. The city’s also on a lake, of course (a Great one), so once you’ve eaten your way around the world you can take the ferry to Toronto’s pedestrianised islands (Centre Island, Ward’s Island and Olympic Island), rent canoes, picnic in the Franklin Children’s Garden or simply chill out on one of the islands’ little beach areas. PLAY AT The Ontario Science Centre (ontariosciencecentre. ca) is a must-visit, with KidSpark for the younger set and the seriously slick Weston Family Innovation Centre for older kids – be prepared to lose a day here. Taking the glass elevator up to
the lookout at the top of the CN Tower (cntower.ca) is also up there on the list. Or simply head to High Park and revel in nature, NorthAmerica-style, with an impressive lakefront setting, giant Japanese cherry trees, hiking trails, picnic areas, adventure playground and mini zoo with mountain goats, yaks and peacocks to pet (or not). STAY AT Hotel Le Germain (legermainhotels.com) on Maple Leaf Square, in the entertainment district, is a perfect spot to establish yourselves. Within walking distance of the CN Tower, this smart but unsnooty hotel offers elegant comfort, a generous library (with children’s books), family-friendly activities and babysitting service to boot. The complimentary cappuccino bar is a bonus too.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toronto daily.
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© TRUSTEES OF THE NHM, LONDON
HISTORIC
LONDON
PLAY AT For some of the best sightseeing in London, hop on the tube to Westminster and stroll along the Embankment to Tower Bridge, taking in Big Ben, The London Eye, the lofty skyscrapers of the city and the Medieval Tower itself. Or, even better, see it all from the water, on a City Cruise boat (they operate a hop-on, hop-off service from Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich Piers; citycruises.com). The Natural History Museum (nhm.ac.uk), with
‘Dino Snores’ sleepovers and more, and the amazing Science Museum (sciencemuseum.org.uk.) are also not to be missed. And you can’t visit without a West End show, so make it Matilda the Musical (matildathemusical.com) or Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, right (charlieandthechocolatefactory. com) for an evening of unadulterated Roald Dahl delight. STAY AT Kensington, with its proximity to the best museums, shops, restaurants and Kensington Park (with Diana Memorial Fountain and playground), is hard to beat as a base with kids. The Irish-owned Doyle Collection Kensington Hotel (doylecollection.com) has lots on offer for nippers – including an upgrade to an in-room teepee tent.
Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow, and daily flights from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick. Guests travelling from London can choose to connect at Dublin to ten North American destinations on Aer Lingus services, with the benefit of Pre-clearance of US customs at Dublin Airport.
MATT CROCKETT
Whether you’re four, 14 or 40, London never fails to excite. With its unique blend of shiny-and-new (the Gherkin, London Eye) and history-steeped (Tower of London, Churchill’s War Rooms), it offers endless activities for toddlers, tweens and teens alike.
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SMART EDIT | FAMILY
GEEKERY
WASHINGTON DC A great first stop on any family trip to DC is the essential audience with Abe. A climb up the 87 steps of the Lincoln Memorial Monument is not only rewarded with the great marble man himself, but also one of the best views in town – down the National Mall (with Reflection Pool and Obelisk in the distance). It’s a scene straight out of countless films, and perfectly captures the city’s seat-of-power spirit. PLAY AT Kids, and adults, of all ages will enjoy an afternoon paddle-boating around the Tidal
Basin, languidly taking in the sweeping views of the Jefferson and FDR Memorials, icecream in hand. In April, the place is particularly pretty with the surrounding cherry trees in full, explosive bloom. Indoors, DC has a ridiculous amount of brilliant museums – the National Air and Space Museum (airandspace.si.edu), above, offers flight simulators and moon rocks to touch while the International Spy Museum (spymuseum.org) with its fully immersive espionage experience is brilliant for 12 years and up; and although it sounds like snoozeville-
central, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing (moneyfactory.gov), will have their eyes out on sticks as they watch the iconic US dollar get printed, stacked and cut. Show me the money. STAY AT The Hotel Monaco (monaco-dc.com) is a colourful, four-star boutique hotel superbly located in the Penn Quarter/Chinatown district, just steps from the National Mall. It offers generous rooms, complimentary city bikes and it even welcomes pets, in case Junior packed Hammy the Hamster by mistake!
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Washington DC daily from May, with onwards connections to cities across North America with partner airlines.
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bar & restaurant w london
opens april 2016
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a little taste of ireland in the heart of fulham
contact@mcgettigans.com | www.mcgettigans.com
Now open at Breaffy House Hotel, Castlebar, Co Mayo
Healy Mac’s on P Ramlee in Kuala Lumpur named Best Irish Bar in the World by The Irish Times & Diageo THE BEST
in the world outside Ireland
HEALYMACS NOW OPEN IN MARINA ESTEPONA, ANDALUSIA, SPAIN!
Healy Mac’s multi-award-winning Irish Bar & Restaurant - Malaysia • Indonesia • Ireland • Spain
DESTINATION | BUDAPEST
48 hours in
MONTPELLIER Conor Power pounds the pedestrianised streets of Languedoc-Roussillon’s capital.
Don't miss ... STREET ART You won’t find a more hip and happening area of expression than Montpellier’s street art, or art urbain. In common with medicine, street art is another discipline where Montpellier punches well above its weight, with the work of local-born, global-calibre talents such as Space Invader and BMX, to be explored. MUSÉE FABRE Although the tentpole event isn’t on until later in the year – the Frédéric Bazille exhibition from June 25 to October 16 – this is one hell of an art space, housing one of the best, fine 106 |
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art collections in France within a refurbished 19th-century former mansion with tasteful modern additions (39 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, +33 467 148 300; museefabre.fr) SEASIDE The sandy Mediterranean shoreline is just ten kilometres away and the ingenious amalgamation of Montpellier and a bunch of communes between here and the sea five years ago to form Montpellier Méditerranée Métropole means that you can now get a free tourist train to the seaside from the heart of the city.
Top, Montpellier's Arc de Triomphe and below, a swathe of undeveloped coastline.
Clockwise from top left, sumptuous Le Café Joseph; the charmant courtyard at L'Atelier Gourmand; cocktail hour at Le Parfum, and go rare if you dare at Chez Boris.
Drink at ... FUN Le Parfum is a veritable palace of cocktails, like something out of a Sex and the City fantasy sequence but with a Chinese ambience. The atmosphere is convivial and groovy and it’s a favourite spot for pre-dinner aperitifs for tipplers of all ages. Plus, you get a dim-sum with every cocktail. (55 Rue de la Cavalerie, +33 467 848 615; barleparfum.com)
Eat at ...
OSTENTATIOUS Part sumptuous French townhouse, part modern lounge bar, Le Café Joseph is overflowing with groove – and boasts a huge wine selection. Live music on Friday and Saturday nights with a crowd that’s not too young and not too old – an important point in a city with such a high proportion of students. (3 Place Jean Jaurès, +33 467 663 195; cafejoseph.com)
CHARMING L’Atelier Gourmand – these people know their fresh produce as well as their vin (they run wine courses). The entrance through a portico and leafy courtyard instantly charms, and suggests a more gourmand-than-average experience in this converted 19th-century townhouse. (17 Avenue du Pont Juvénal, +33 499 517 523; lateliergourmand-montpellier.com) COMFORTING Its name Miammm translates as “Yummm”, and this Michelin-recommended restaurant in a quiet, central street does great comfort food from the Auvergne region. Starters from around €10 and mains at €20. The Sausage Cantalou is like Maman would have made. (26 Rue Terral, +33 434 353 286; miammm.fr)
ALEXIA ROUX
LIVELY With plenty of ironwork décor and kitsch lighting, La Suite des Bains is a lively Spanish-infused up-tempo bar with the emphasis on fun, not tradition. Plenty of tapas choices, from Iberian classics to fresh seafood. From 7pm onwards, genial cocktail genius Loïc is on hand to entertain and conjure up masterpieces. (6 bis Rue Richelieu, +33 467 660 894; lasuitedesbains.com)
VALUE A very popular French steak restaurant that’s part of a small restaurant chain, Chez Boris serves a range of good food at reasonable prices. It’s located at the Place de la Comédie in the centre of town. Lively but not too loud – be brave and try the bloodier-cooked and far tastier French style. (17 Boulevard Sarrail, +33 467 028 238; chezboris.com)
MATTHIAS HAMEL
LUC JENNEPIN
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MONTPELLIER twice weekly from May.
Sleep at … Hotel Pullman Montpellier Antigone makes for a fine retreat, above. Right, more poolside action at the Courtyard by Marriott.
PALATIAL Slightly out of town, but at the Courtyard by Marriott Montpellier, you’re still within two kilometres of the Place de la Comédie and next door to the new Town Hall. It’s all about space, relaxation, wellness, 24/7 fitness and a swimming pool that’s very welcome at the end of a hot summer’s day. Double rooms from €109. (105 Place Georges Freche, +33 499 547 400; marriott.com)
MODERN MEDIEVAL Plonked in the heart of Montpellier’s hopelessly alluring historical centre – and right next door to Galeries Lafayette – the Pullman Montpellier Antigone gives unexpected levels of service for such a central location, including rooftop swimming pool and restaurant. Double rooms from €138. (1 Rue des Pertuisanes, +33 467 997 272; pullmanhotels.com)
GREEN-FINGERED What the Hôtel Fauvettes lacks in size and facilities, it more than makes up for in charm, with a genial hostess and a small but perfectlyformed rear patio garden. It’s close to everything and within a stone’s throw of France’s oldest botanical gardens, Le Jardin des Plantes. Double rooms from €51. (8 Rue Bonnard, +33 467 631 760; hotel-lesfauvettes.fr) AERLINGUS.COM |
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Kuehne + Nagel In our 125 year history, Kuehne + Nagel has evolved from a traditional international freight forwarder to a leading global provider of innovative and fully integrated supply chain solutions. We develop individual solutions for your complex logistics requirements. Through common processes and one standard operating platform, we can consistently deliver high-quality services around the corner and around the world. Established in 1890 - 66,000 employees in more than 1000 offices in over 100 countries. www.kuehne-nagel.com
ON BUSINESS
Making travel work for you
High Shine
DAN GOLDBERG
Chicago has risen from the downturn’s ashes, with a boom in tech and construction companies, finds Lori Rackl.
CHOOSE CHICAGO
Business
The Chicago skyline and its surprising beachfront.
he Great Fire of 1871 reduced much of Chicago to rubble. It also set the stage for the Second City to reinvent itself, to come back bigger and better than ever. Fast forward to 2012, when Chicago launched an ambitious incubator for tech start-ups. Its name? 1871. “After the Fire, the city experienced a real renaissance,” says Howard Tullman, CEO of 1871, a public-private partnership whose office space in the Merchandise Mart recently tripled in size thanks to rapid growth. “We see technology as a new, expansive opportunity for Chicago to become the tech centre not just of the Midwest, but of the United States.” Like a lot of big cities, Chicago has
T
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to CHICAGO twice daily and onwards to cities across North America with partner airlines.
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its share of big financial problems. Its credit rating has taken a beating as the city grapples with debt and unfunded public pensions. But none of that has put the brakes on a construction boom in downtown neighbourhoods, such as the West Loop and River North, where a lot of tech companies, including 1871, are based. The birthplace of success stories like GrubHub, Groupon and Orbitz, Chicago has cultivated a thriving tech scene that’s a bright spot in the local economy – one of the most diverse in North America. Roughly 3,200 digital companies employ more than 54,000 people in the metropolitan region, up from 33,000 in 2012, according to the nonprofit economic development group World Business Chicago. “You can really keep your costs down in Chicago versus the coasts,” says Jay Swoboda, CEO of Dabble, an online service that promotes onetime classes in pasta-making, axethrowing and podcasting, among other diverse pursuits. The Great Fire may be ancient history, but Chicago’s future as a tech hub is showing no signs of cooling down.
SMART MONEY Getting around town is easy and affordable – not to mention good exercise – with a bicycle. Less than $10 gets you a 24-hour pass to the Divvy bike-share programme’s expansive network of sky-blue threespeeds, spread out at nearly 500 docking stations across the city. Divvys aren’t just a quick, convenient way to get from point A to B. Take one for a sightseeing spin along the 29-kilometre trail fronting Lake Michigan, or tour the new “606” elevated path linking the trendy Bucktown and Wicker Park neighbourhoods to Humboldt Park and Logan Square. On longer rides, be sure to dock the bike at least every half-hour to avoid excess charges. Download the free Divvy CycleFinder app to get real-time location information about the nearest available bike or berth. divvybikes.com
ERIC KLEINBERG
EAT AT ... STYLISH Google’s new Chicago headquarters in the West Loop’s Fulton Market District is home to one of the hottest steakhouses, in a city that knows a thing or two about beef. Mouthwatering surf and turf options pack the menu at Swift & Sons, left, a retro-modern throwback to the classic American steak joint. (1000 West Fulton Market, +1 312 733 9420; swiftandsonschicago.com)
SEASONAL Chicago isn’t near an ocean but that doesn’t stop GT Fish & Oyster, middle left, from serving some seriously divine seafood in the heart of River North. Expertly shucked oysters are a must, as is the homemade pasta from Michelin-starred chef Giuseppe Tentori. Save room for dessert. (531 North Wells Street, +1 312 929 3501; gtoyster.com) DEEP DISH Philly has its cheesesteak; Boston has its clam chowder and Chicago has its pizza – a hearty pie that may or may not be better than New York’s, but it’s indisputably bigger. You’ll need a knife and fork to dig into the city’s best at Lou Malnati’s, bottom left, where a blanket of Wisconsin cheese covers the flaky, buttery crust. (439 North Wells Street, +1 312 828 9800; loumalnatis.com)
savouring Topolobampo’s sophisticated Mexican cuisine with the “Topolo in 60” three-course menu, priced at $25. rickbayless.com/ restaurants
KARL SKAFLEN
ERIC KLEINBERG
WORTH THE WAIT Dubbed the best burger in America, the meat patties dished out in the dimly lit confines of Au Cheval, below, have people waiting hours to get in. Put your name on the list and kill time at one of the nearby bars on Randolph Street until a text tells you it’s your turn to wrap your lips around this juicy slice of heaven, made even more decadent when topped FAST with a fried egg or FOOD foie gras. (800 Spend your lunch hour
West Randolph Street, +1 312 929 4580; auchevalchicago.com)
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QUIRKY Sir Richard Branson’s playful persona is all over Virgin Hotels Chicago debut property, left, built in a former bank. Guests can kick back with a complimentary cocktail during the nightly social hour and peruse the hotel’s library, curated by the funny folks at The Second City comedy troupe. Starting around $185, the 250 rooms come tricked out with Virgin’s patented lounge beds. (203 North Wabash Avenue, +1 312 940 4400; virginhotels.com) HIP The half-dozen rooms at Longman & Eagle are located off the beaten track in Logan Square, a happening ’hood brimming with bearded bohemians. The modern, loft-like dwellings, left, starting at a budgetfriendly $95, are perched above a popular — and sometimes noisy — restaurant and bar, where the wait for a table can top two hours. The bright side: guests can pop upstairs for a nap. (2657 North Kedzie Avenue, +1 773 276 7110; longmanandeagle.com) LUXURY Architecture buffs will appreciate that the Chicago outpost of The Langham hotel, left, takes up the first 14 floors of a Mies van der Rohe skyscraper. A five-star spa rounds out this elegant urban resort, where rooms start at $395. An extra $100 gets you access to club-level amenities. Afternoon tea service is held daily in the pavilion and creative cocktails are served in the inviting Travelle lounge. (330 North Wabash Avenue, +1 312 923 9988; langhamhospitalitygroup.com)
ALAN SHORTALL
TRENDY Vestiges of the 19th-century glory days of a private men’s club pervade the new 241-room Chicago Athletic Association Hotel, which sports an unmistakably masculine vibe, below left. Guests and locals can’t get enough of the second-floor games room, featuring billiard tables and a bocce ball court, and the rooftop restaurant with winning views of Millennium Park. Rooms start at $289. (12 South Michigan Avenue, +1 312 940 3552; chicagoathletichotel.com)
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s baseball. BATTER UP Spring mean er in the ush The Chicago White Sox me opener regular season with a ho veland on April 8 against the Cle ld, while Indians at US Cellular Fie Wrigley, at ti the Cubs face Cincinna cubs.com April 11. whitesox.com /
CHICAGO’S FIRST LADY
CLAYTON HAUCK
COURTESY OF VIRGIN HOTELS CHICAGO
STAY AT ...
DOWNTIME AT ... COMEDY Stephen Colbert, Bill Murray, Tina Fey and Amy Poehler are just a few notables who honed their craft on the legendary Chicago comedy scene. Take in the stars of tomorrow on stage by experiencing a show at The Second City (1616 North Wells Street, +1 312 337 3992; secondcity.com) or catch a masterclass in comedy improv at iO’s Mission Theater (1501 North Kingsbury Street, +1 312 929 2401; ioimprov.com).
OUTDOORS Slip on some comfy shoes and explore the 25 scenic acres that make up Chicago’s showpiece, Millennium Park. Wander through the park’s serene Lurie Garden, get wet in the playful Crown Fountain and take in a free concert or al fresco workout on the Pritzker Pavilion’s Great Lawn. Don’t leave without snapping a selfie in front of the reflective sculpture “The Bean”. (201 East Randolph Street, +1 312 742 1168; millenniumpark.org)
ARCHITECTURE The best way to marvel at the city’s world-famous buildings is from the water with a Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise, departing from a dock at the Michigan Avenue Bridge and Wacker Drive. Knowledgeable guides lead the 90-minute tours that touch on more than 50 notable structures flanking the river. Demand can be high, so buy tickets in advance. (224 South Michigan Avenue, +1 312 922 3432; architecture.org)
The Willis Tower, Chicago’s tallest building, flanked by the other glittering jewels of its magnificent skyline.
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TIKI Named after a classic rum drink, Three Dots and a Dash is a veritable temple to the tiki cocktail. Mai Tais and Zombie Punch get served in kitschy-cool mugs, above, you can buy for a memorable souvenir. Make friends quickly by ordering a Treasure Chest No. 3, a $385 beverage that serves six to eight people and comes with a bottle of Dom Pérignon. (435 North Clark Street, +1 312 610 4220; threedotschicago.com)
JONI KAT ANDERSON
DRINK AT ...
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CASUAL Contemporary American beers and classic Belgian brews are the specialties at Haymarket Pub & Brewery, an inviting place to grab a preor post-dinner pint on Randolph Street’s restaurant row. The 32 tap handles behind the polishedwood bar include more than ten craft beers made on-site. Guided tours ($15) offered on Sundays, reservations required. (737 West Randolph Street, +1 312 638 0700; haymarketbrewing.com) 114 |
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ELLY WALTON
ARTISANAL The murals that demarcate the façade of The Violet Hour, above right, are constantly changing, just like the seasonal drink menu offered at this pioneer of the craft-cocktail movement. Head to the classy Wicker Park haunt between 6pm and 8pm Monday through Thursday for absinthe happy hour, when this once-taboo spirit is served old school-style, complete with absinthe drip, for $10. (1520 North Damen Avenue, +1 773 252 1500; theviolethour.com)
Global compliance? One solution.
Pic (l-r): Financial Accounting and Advisory Services Partners - Tim Lohan, Sinead Donovan, Tony Thornbury and Fergus Condon.
As organisations expand into new markets or undertake functional financial transformations, the challenges faced by accounting and finance teams become more complex. Our Financial Accounting and Advisory Services (FAAS) team can provide you with a senior and dedicated single point of contact and use our international network of over 130 offices to provide a seamless solution to your global needs. Working with our US Irish Business Group in New York and San Francisco we can ensure both sides of the Atlantic have real time access to senior people. Tim Lohan E tim.lohan@ie.gt.com
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Business
AL HIGGINS
Her favourite things – clockwise from far left, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin; coffee devotion at Clement & Pekoe; Prague Castle, beyond Charles Bridge, and making an entrance at San Francisco’s grand Golden Gate Park.
A DAY IN THE LIFE Galwegian Nikki Lannen is the founder of Dublin game development studio WarDucks.
6.30am When I can, I jump out of bed and race to the gym for 7am. I try to get a spin class or some sort of exercise before I start the working day. You feel amazing getting your exercise behind you in the morning. At about 8.30am I walk to our office on South William Street, along with my dog, Fred. 9.00am I arrive at the office. Our team consists of Darren McKeever, Guilhermo von Scharen Heldt, Keith McCormac, Daniel Sheridan, myself and, of course, Fred. We’ve a great atmosphere in the office and everyone has a clear focus. We’ve built a mobile and Facebook desktop game called Global Agents and are currently working on our second title which is a virtual reality game. It’s exciting to be part of the emerging virtual reality space. The gamer can actually take a role in the game and feel like they’re in that place or story. It’s the future. 9.30am Our first meeting of the day ... At this one, we all stand up (just to get the blood flowing) and report on what we accomplished the day before and what we’ll work on for the day ahead. It’s a good way to keep a clear direction and gives people a chance to list any issues they’ve been facing. 11am I usually pop across the road to have a coffee in Clement & Pekoe 116 |
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with my friend Johanna who also runs a business (starla.ie) close by. There are a lot of startups in the area, which makes it a great place for networking. Clement & Pekoe is a much-loved coffee shop and they do a smooth, creamy flat white that I’m pretty sure I’ve become addicted to. 1pm I normally have lunch at my desk. We’re pitching for a second investment at the moment so things are pretty hectic. It’s an exciting time as Global Agents is doing well, and it’s amazing to see it progressing. We have about 70,000 monthly active players and they are crazily engaged, which is highly motivating. Players have gone so far as to create their own Facebook groups to share thoughts and tips about the game. We’re also building another game for next year, so coming up with some cool ideas for that is fun too. 4pm Fred normally needs a walk around now (as do I) so I stroll over to St Stephen’s Green with him. If one of the team is free they join us so we get a chance to talk properly about how we’re getting on. 8pm I walk home anytime after 8pm. I tend to be pretty tired after a hectic day so I just cook something light and take the time to sit down and relax. Then it’s off to bed before starting all over again …
I LOVE VISITING … GALWAY, IRELAND This is where I’m originally from and it’s a must for anyone visiting Ireland – you can’t beat the food and atmosphere. Eat at O’Grady’s on the Pier (ogradysonthepier.com) in Barna, the fish is so fresh it’s nearly jumping off the plate. PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC I spent a lot of time visiting this beautiful city when I was growing up. I especially love to visit Prague Castle – even the walk up to it is breathtaking and it’s an ideal way to spend a day. Stop on your way for a local beer, it’s the best in the world. SAN FRANCISCO I’ve travelled to San Francisco a few times on business and I really love the city. There is so much to do. I would highly recommend a trip to Golden Gate Park, it’s a fantastic place to sit and people-watch.
Business
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APP Getting lost in a new city happens to the most seasoned traveller but Glympse aims to make life easier. The app sends your GPS location in real time to whoever needs it, so if your sense of direction lets you down, your colleagues can easily find you. Free on Android and iOS. glympse.com
STAY The four-star Hotel NH Milano Touring (Via Ugo Tarchetti 2, +39 02 63351), is just a tenminute stroll to Milan’s main train station and 15 minutes into the city, making for an ace base. For great holiday packages to Milan, visit holidayswithaerlingus.com.
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BUSINESS
EAT A sleek take on traditional Greek street food, Suvlaki (21 Bateman Street, +44 207 287 6638; suvlaki.co.uk) in London’s Soho has mastered smart casual dining and, although the menu centres on its namesake “suvlaki” – traditional grilled meat skewer – there are also tasty sides such as baked feta and a full menu of Greek wine and craft beer.
TRAVEL HOT LIST
Lisa Hughes’ edit of go-to gadgets, executive expos and high-flying hotels.
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EVENT Amsterdam’s TNW Conference this May 26-27 sets up camp for its 11th annual get-together of technology leaders, venture capitalists and entrepreneurs. Co-founder and CEO of Reddit, Steve Huffman, and director of product design at Facebook, Julie Zhuo, are among the speakers. thenextweb.com
GADGET Style-forward, wearable tech junkies will love Samsung’s Gear S2 smartwatch, which now comes in 18K rose gold and platinum. For a more personal touch, Samsung is expanding its watch straps and watch face options so you can get creative with artsy designs from artists such as Jean-Michel Basquiat. £299.99 from stockists including PC World and samsung.com.
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GUIDES Organise your itineraries and find new places to explore with TripSee. As well as holding your travel bookings in one place, you can add a city to a travel map and the app automatically creates a wanderlust-worthy itinerary for you. Free on iOS and Android. tripsee.travels
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GADGET If you’re serious about snapping, check out the compact, lightweight Nikon D500 DX-format DSLR. The EXPEED 5 image-processing engine delivers highquality images and movies and SnapBridge makes for easy sharing with your smartphone. €3,329 at nikon.co.uk.
STAY A Pacific Heights staple, San Francisco’s Hotel Drisco (2901 Pacific Avenue, +1 415 346 2880; hoteldrisco.com) combines work with play thanks to its slick business centre. Rooms also feature a snooze-inducing ‘sleep machine’ ... zzzzzzzzz
MAIN BUILDING CONTRACTOR
DESIGN BUILD
JOINT VENTURE PARTNER
Commercial Bio-Pharma Data Centres Industrial Retail Educational Conservation
Killarney House, Kenmare 1877 - 1878
Bolands Mills, Dublin 1941
Killester Bridge, Dublin 1940
Building Excellence Since 1810 Collen Construction Collen Construction UK Collen GmbH
River House, East Wall Road, Dublin 3, Ireland Basepoint Business Centre, Metcalf Way, Crawley West Sussex RH11 7XX, UK In der Kron 6-8, 60489 Frankfurt am Main, Germany
www.collen.com Email: construction@collen.com
T: + 353 1 874 5411 T: + 44 1293 817611 T: + 49 697 8010248
Business Hotel
HOMELY MADE
Lauren Heskin finds a warm welcome at Made in Louise, a boutique hotel in busy Brussels. WHAT & WHERE Located in the bustling Brussels neighbourhood of Ixelles, Made in Louise is served by tram line 92, which brings you right into the city centre. (Rue Veydt 40, +32 2537 4033; madeinlouise.com) DOWN TO BUSINESS Chic and boutique, just a few streets in from the very fashionable Avenue Louise, the eponymous hotel has been carefully restored over the past five years by its brother-and-sister owners in a chequered, monochrome palette that emphasises the original building’s symmetry and period features. The hotel remains thoroughly modern throughout though, featuring free internet, up-to-the-minute TVs and relaxing rain showers in every room. A quaint courtyard (replete with giant chess board) and a snug bar are adeptly appointed within. A business centre and conference room provide a space for peace and quiet, while super-fast Wi-Fi takes the hassle out of online. Business travellers and families alike recommend Louise for its home-from-home vibe so often lacking in larger chain hotels. Rooms from €80.
HOT DESKING
A co-working space with a digital focus, Factory Forty is a business community that welcomes all professionals into its 1,200 square metres of office space. Hold meetings, host events, get focused in the orchard garden or just grab a desk in its quirky spaces that combine vintage furniture, tropical plants and the latest technology. (Rue des Anciens Étangs 40, +32 2430 2422; factoryforty.be)
DOWNTIME Chill out in Made in Louise’s sophisticated lounge with a Belgian beer or pick up breakfast in the sunlit Made in Bar & Market. If you have a few hours to spare, experience the apex of European Art Nouveau architecture at the Horta Museum – a ten-minute ramble away on Rue Américaine – or head south for a jog around Bois de la Cambre, a vast and beautiful parkland that’s closed to traffic on weekends.
LUNCH BUZZ Bright and airy, Mo Mo specialises in serving up delicious Tibetan dumplings, steamed veggies and lentil soups, all freshly made using sustainably sourced ingredients. Discover “mo mo” dumpling dough and the nuances of Tibetan cooking. (27 Rue Defacqz, +32 2522 0968; mo-mo.eu)
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Brussels daily. Guests travelling from Brussels can choose to connect at Dublin to ten North American destinations on Aer Lingus services, with the benefit of Pre-clearance of US customs at Dublin airport.
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€1.25
BILLION IN TRANSACTIONS IN 2015
THE MARKET LEADERS WITH 50% MARKET SHARE
THE NUMBER
LARGEST DEDICATED LAND TEAM IN IRELAND COMPRISING SALES | CONSULTANCY | MASTER PLANNING | ADVISORY | LICENSE AGREEMENTS SECURE PLANNING PERMISSION | IMPLEMENT VALUE ADD INITIATIVES
PROJECT TRINITY, DUBLIN 4 SOLD LARGEST ONE OFF LAND SALE IN 2015
SOLD
Q3 CARRICKMINES, DUBLIN 18 €47 MILLION
SOLD
TROPHY WATERFRONT SITE IN SOUTH DOCKS
ADVISED ON
ACQUISITION
LARGEST RETAIL LAND BANK SOLD IN 2015
5 HANOVER QUAY, €22 MILLION
DUBLIN 2
PROJECT CLEAR, DUBLIN
ADVISED ON 1,700 ACRES OF ZONED LAND
ADVISED ON
ACQUISITION
€1.85 BILLION LOAN SALE DUBLIN
ADVISED ON LARGE MIXED USE DEVELOPMENT PORTFOLIO
OUR TEAM:
Mark Reynolds Director
Peter O’Meara Director
John Swarbrigg Associate
Andrew Sherry Associate
Jill Horan Senior Surveyor
Colette Mulroy Senior Surveyor
Cianan Duff Surveyor
Nicola Conneely Surveyor
Niamh McAllister Administrator
DEVELOPMENT LAND
TEAM IN IRELAND Dublin +353 (0) 1 618 1300 | Cork +353 (0) 21 427 1371 | Belfast +44 (0) 28 9026 7820
www.savills.ie
Business
6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT
1
Start at the end
I always start each year with a clear vision of where I want the business to be by the end of that year. I work backwards from there, deciding on what needs to be done to achieve this. I share my vision with my team and seek opinions before finalising the plan for the 12 months ahead.
2
Don’t let complacency set in Sometimes, when
things are going well, it’s easier to sit back than initiate change. The old adage ‘If it’s not broken, don’t fix it’ doesn’t always apply. Stimulating change to keep your business ahead of the competition is vital in the increasingly competitive environments that we operate in. I drive change through a continuous improvement ethos, which is shared by all of our employees.
PAMELA QUINN is the MD of Kuehne + Nagel Ireland, one of the world’s largest logistics companies, which has bases in more than 100 countries. Established in Bremen, Germany, in 1890, the multinational giant now includes airfreight, seafreight, contract logistics and overland businesses. Quinn became the Irish MD at the tender age of 36.
3
Practise questioning
Don’t underestimate the power of questioning. It’s amazing how much you can discover when you ask questions. It sounds like the most obvious approach to a problem; however, I’ve learnt that it is truly a leadership differentiator. The more questions I ask, the more I learn about a situation, person or problem. It’s an
Pamela’s
SMART CITY
DESTINATION “Hamburg is one of my favourite cities for doing business. I love strolling around HafenCity, watching the transformation of old buildings being turned into new using stunning modern architecture, or eating in one of the lovely restaurants along the harbour.”
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SLEEP AT “The Ameron Hotel Speicherstadt is a beautiful four-star hotel in the historic warehouse district near the port, HafenCity. The views are amazing and the decor is warm and inviting. If I can’t get into the city in the evenings it has a great Italian restaurant too.” ameronhotels.com
extremely powerful approach and, when used correctly, quickly gets me to the core of an issue.
4
Behave as you want others to
5
Learn ... always
I believe that people mirror behaviours and they tend naturally to follow the behaviours they see around them. I’m extremely conscious of my own behaviours and I like to make at least one positive change each year. I encourage my team to do the same.
Every situation presents an opportunity to learn. It’s amazing what you can glean from any situation by admitting that you don’t have all the answers. It can be quite liberating, whilst driving trust and collaboration with your team.
6
Look forward It’s
natural to reflect on past successes but I’ve learnt that looking forward and planning for future success is a much better use of time. I spend 80 per cent of my time looking at what is to be done, as opposed to what has been done. I’ve shared this thinking and way of working with my team and I’ve seen motivation, creativity, innovation, job satisfaction, increased energy and strong engagement as outcomes.
EAT AT “Fischereihafen offers quality traditional and modern food at a very good price. There’s a great view over the harbour and the service is excellent. Very relaxing after a long day.” fischereihafen restaurant.de
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Hamburg daily.
“D&C has set the benchmark for casual Italian dining “D&C hasinset benchmark for casual Italian dining - Hotpress Magazine thethe capital..” in the capital..” - Hotpress Magazine “Dunne & Crescenzi has changed the way the “Dunne & Crescenzi has changed the way the Irish eat” - Tom Doorley Irish eat” - Tom Doorley “Pioneering & reigning” - The New York Times “Pioneering & reigning” - The New York Times
Valued collection of Italian restaurants
urant Guide Top 100 Resta na en cK M e rt of th Proud to be pa 14-16 South Frederick St. Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6759892
11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4 Tel: 353 (1) 6673252
L’Officina Dundrum TEL: +353 (1) 2166764
L’Officina Kildare TEL: +353 045 535850
Bar Italia Ormond Quay TEL: +353 (1) 8741000
www.dunneandcrescenzi.com
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OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
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Flying with Aer Lingus
Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.
126 Welcome aboard 127 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 144 Our Route Networks 148 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inight Entertainment 130 Movies to North America 131 Movies from North America 132 Our Classic Movie Selection 135 Television On Demand 138 Radio On Demand 139 Music On Demand
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Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.
h words Useful Iris ses and phra
Why not try speaking a few words e of the native languag while you are visiting Ireland!
me Fáilte Welco ello Dia dhuit H ill Goodbye Slán go fó is... m My name o d m in a ...is you? tú? How are Conas atá ood ma ith I’m g Tá mé go eers Sláinte! Ch u gat Thank yo a h it a m h Go ra ib me scéal Excuse h it le o m h Gab
Cara Friend
In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.
Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.
Passengers with wheelchair requirements
Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow
Donegal
Knock
Kerry
Cork
Edinburgh Newcastle
Belfast Isle of Man Dublin
Liverpool Birmingham
Amsterdam
What cities do Aer Lingus fly to and connect to?
London (Heathrow) Bristol
Cardiff Newquay
Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands
Exeter
London (Gatwick)
Southampton
Jersey
Brussels
Paris
Stuttgart
Rennes Nantes Geneva
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Lyon
Milan (Malpensa)
View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.
A SS IS TA N CE
If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.
Shannon
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Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information.
See page 144 for full route maps
ETA IL S CO N TA CT D
.com nce@aerlingus specialassista 365 011 Ireland (0818) on–Fri 09:00–17:00 M t & Sun 10:00–16:00 Sa nk Holidays 10:00–16:00 Ba 20 21 UK (0871) 718 886 8333 1 53 Europe +3 2 4222 USA (516) 62
Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device. You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used. Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.
Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.
To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.
Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.
ARE YOU READY FOR TAKE-OFF AND LANDING?
Is your mobile phone and/or other portable electronic device in ’flight mode’?
Is your seatback fully upright?
Is your armrest down?
Is your tabletop stowed?
Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?
ON Airplane
Mode
To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting. If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.
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Your comfort and safety
KEEP MOVING
A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:
Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.
Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another passenger (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.
Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.
Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and to reduce jet lag.
We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a passenger on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. Similarly, behaviour or language towards other passengers or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.
On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.
EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.
Airbus 330-
200
For your Safety
Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad
Airbus 319
Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr
Please do
not remov
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Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do
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Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.
ON Airplane Mode
ON Airplane Mode
ON Airplane
ON Airplane
Mode
Mode
In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.
DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.
EYE CARE If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.
TIME ZONES Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone more quickly.
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O S J
G Temple Bar, Dublin
TRADITIONAL IRISH BARS, RESTAURANT & ACCOMMODATION
AWARD WINNING TRADITIONAL IRISH RESTAURANT
LIVE IRISH MUSIC EVERYDAY FROM 1PM TO 2.30AM
SERVING SUPERB PINTS & THE BEST CRAIC IN DUBLIN
BEST BAR FOOD SERVED DAILY
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Spo
Great Music, Great Food, Great Craic
All major sporting events live on our Big Screens Look us up online
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Gogartys 58 -59 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 tel: +353 (0)1 6711 822 • email: info@gogartys.ie
Fáilte Approved
Pub
Visit www.gogartys.ie for self catering apartments and international hostel accommodation
Movies Flights to North America
OSCAR NOMINATED
Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
Drama Brooklyn 112 mins
PG13
An Irish immigrant lands in 1950s Brooklyn, where she quickly falls into a romance with a local. She finds she must choose between two countries and the lives that exist within. Brooklyn was nominated for three Oscars at this years Academy Awards: Best Film, Best Adapted Screen Play and Best Actress Saoirse Ronan. Directed by Ireland‘s John Crowley – and adapted from Colm Tóibín‘s eponymous novel – the Oscar-nominated film stars Saoirse Ronan, Domhnall Gleeson and Emory Cohen. EN FR DE IT ES
Biography
Action OSCAR WINNER
In the Heart of the Sea
PG13
Point Break
PG13
114 mins An FBI agent infiltrates a team of extreme sports athletes. Stars Édgar Ramírez, Luke Bracey, Ray Winstone
122 mins A recounting of a ship’s sinking by a giant whale in 1820. Stars Chris Hemsworth, Cillian Murphy EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
Star Wars: The Force Awakens
PG13
The Revenant
OSCAR NOMINATED
OSCAR WINNER
R
The Danish Girl
R
Trumbo
135 mins Luke Skywalker has vanished and there is a search for him. Stars Harrison Ford, Mark Hamill, Carrie Fisher
156 mins A frontiersman is mauled by a bear and left for dead. Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Tom Hardy, Domhnall Gleeson, Will Poulter
119 mins One of the first male to female reassignment surgery. Stars Alicia Vikander, Eddie Redmayne, Amber Heard, Ben Wishaw
124 mins Trumbo recounts how words and wit exposed injustice. Stars Helen Mirren, Diane Lane, John Goodman, Bryan Cranston
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE ES
EN FR ES
Drama
Kids G
General
PG
Parental Guidance
PG13 Parental Guidance
Not suitable for children under 13.
R
Macbeth
R
113 mins Macbeth receives a prophecy from a trio of witches. Stars Michael Fassbender, Marion Cotillard, Jack Reynor, Sean Harris EN FR DE ES
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Victor Frankenstein
PG13
Z For Zachariah
PG13
Norm of the North
PG
Open Season: Scared Silly
110 mins A dynamic and thrilling twist on a legendary tale. Stars Daniel Radcliffe, Jessica Brown Findlay, James McAvoy
98 mins A disaster wipes out humanity leaving only three survivors. Stars Chiwetel Ejiofor, Margot Robbie, Chris Pine
86 mins Norm and friends are displaced from their Artic home. Stars Heather Graham, Bill Nighy, Rob Schneider
85 mins Elliot, Boog and all of the woodland creatures are back. Stars Kathleen Barr, Garry Chalk
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR
EN FR IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
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EN PG
FR DE IT ES
Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español
R
Movies Flights from North America
OSCAR NOMINATED
Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky! Action
Comedy Joy 124 mins
137 mins Katniss continues the battle to take down President Snow. Stars Jennifer Lawrence EN FR DE IT ES
PG13
Joy is the story of the title character, who rose from hard times to become the founder and matriarch of a powerful family business dynasty. Along her journey she faces betrayal, treachery, the loss of innocence and the scars of love. Jennifer Lawerence was once again nominated for Best Actress in Joy at this years Academy Awards. Stars Jennifer Lawrence, Robert De Niro, Bradley Cooper, Diane Ladd and Virginia Madsen. EN FR DE IT ES
Biography
The Hunger PG13 Games: Mockingjay Part 2
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
Comedy
Life
R
The 33 (Los 33)
PG13
5 To 7
R
Miss You Already
PG13
111 mins A photographer is assigned to take photos of James Dean. Stars Robert Pattinson, Dane DeHaan, Peter Lucas
127 mins Based on the true story of the trapped gold minners. Stars Antonio Banderas, Rodrigo Santoro, Juliette Binoche
95 mins A novelist has an affair with the wife of a French diplomat. Stars Bérénice Marlohe, Olivia Thirlby, Anton Yelchin, Glenn Close
112 mins When life‘s struggles get in the way of true friendship. Stars Drew Barrymore, Toni Collette, Dominic Cooper
EN FR IT ES
EN FR DE ES
EN FR DE
EN FR ES
Drama
Night Owls
R
90 mins A one night stand that leads to something more. Stars Adam Pally, Rosa Salazar, Rob Huebel EN
Kids OSCAR NOMINATED
OSCAR NOMINATED
OSCAR NOMINATED
G
General
PG
Parental Guidance
PG13 Parental Guidance
Not suitable for children under 13.
R
Carol
R
Creed
PG13
118 mins An adaptation of Patricia Highsmith‘s novel The Price of Salt. Stars Cate Blanchett, Rooney Mara, Kyle Chandler, Jake Lacy
133 mins Apollo Creed‘s son wants to follow his father's footsteps. Stars Michael B Jordan, Sylvester Stallone, Tessa Thompson
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
The Hateful Eight
R
A Little Game
PG
168 mins A bounty hunter and a prisoner encounter a group of wicked characters. Stars Samuel L Jackson, Kurt Russell
92 mins The death of a beloved grandmother leads to big changes. Stars Fina Strazza, Ralph Macchio, F Murray Abraham, Janeane Garofalo
EN FR DE
EN FR
Alvin and the Chipmunks: The Road Chip
EN PG
92 mins Chipmunks fear the future as Dave contemplates marriage. Stars Jason Lee
FR DE IT SP
Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español
EN FR DE IT ES
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We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America. Timeless favourites such as Michael Collins and Intermission are available, as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.
Our Classic Movie Selection
Birdman
119 mins Stars Michael Keaton, Zach Galifianakis, Edward Norton
R
EN FR DE IT ES
Juno
PG13
96 mins Stars Ellen Page, Michael Cera, Jennifer Garner, Jason Bateman
Crazy, PG13 Stupid, Love
Goodfellas
118 mins Stars Steve Carell, Ryan Gosling, Emma Stone
146 mins Stars Robert De Niro, Ray Liotta, Joe Pesci, Lorraine Bracco
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
Love & Other Drugs
R
112 mins Stars Jake Gyllenhaal, Anne Hathaway
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
The Hobbit: PG13 An Unexpected Journey
The Hobbit: Desolation of Smaug
169 mins Stars Martin Freeman
161 mins Stars Martin Freeman
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
Michael Collins
R
R
133 mins Stars Liam Neeson, Julia Roberts
The Rocker
102 mins Stars Christina Applegate, Rainn Wilson
R
PG13
R
Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs
PG
Intermission
98 mins Stars Jason Bateman, Kevin Spacey
94 mins Stars Simon Pegg, Queen Latifah
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN
Miss PG13 Congeniality
Night at PG the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian 105 mins Stars Ben Stiller
The R Commitments
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
The Secret Life of Bees
PG13
114 mins Stars Dakota Fanning, Jennifer Hudson
EN FR DE IT ES
Horrible Bosses
105 mins Stars Cillian Murphy, Kelly Macdonald, Colin Farrell
109 mins Stars Sandra Bullock, Benjamin Bratt
EN
PG13
Gran Torino
116 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Bee Vang, Christopher Carley, Ahney Her
EN FR DE IT ES
The Swell Season
118 mins Stars Robert Arkins, Andrew Strong EN
R
85 mins Stars Glen Hansard, Markéta Irglová EN
V For Vendetta
The Drop
R
EN
106 mins Stars Tom Hardy, Noomi Rapace, James Gandolfini
132 mins Stars Hugo Weaving, Natalie Portman EN FR DE IT ES
Wedding Crashers
PG13
109 mins Stars Barry Ward, Simone Kirby, Andrew Scott
R
The History Boys
R
109 mins Stars Richard Griffiths, James Corden
EN FR DE IT ES
R
Jimmy’s Hall
EN DE IT ES
R
X-Men: Days of Future Past
119 mins Stars Owen Wilson, Vince Vaughn
132 mins Stars Hugh Jackman
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
PG13
Irish Shorts and Features
Glassland
PG13
Love is a Sting
PG13
93 mins Stars Will Poulter, Jack Reynor, Toni Collette
18 mins Stars Ciarán Hinds, Seán T Ó Meallaigh
EN
EN
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My Bonnie
PG13
13 mins Stars Liz Quinn, Tom Sullivan
EN
Older than Ireland
PG13
81 mins Stars Winnifred Anderson, Bridget Aspell, Dolly Atley EN
Testimony
PG13
9 mins Stars Neill Fleming, Barrington Cullen, Clodagh Downing EN
The Break
PG13
17 mins Stars Ronan Leahy, Barry Keoghan, Jacob Lea EN
The Struggle of Libations
PG13
The Unusual PG13 Inventions of Henry Cavendish
7 mins Stars Des Braiden, Nadia Dibbs
16 mins Stars Hugh O‘Conor
EN
EN
MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN
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Bar & Restaurant ‘Home of the Irish Coffee’
Kennedy’s established in 1850 has long since maintained an honourable standing amongst the elite of Dublin’s watering holes. Indeed it once provided more than a sumptuous pint for the residents of Westland Row and Merrion Square as the front part of the establishment used to be a grocery shop. A shop where young Oscar Wilde earned his first shilling stacking the shelves on Saturday afternoon. With its location on the doorstep of Trinity College, Kennedy’s enjoys a clientele comprising of the very latest additions to Ireland’s academic body. Serving Irish Classic in term of food and a Live Trad Session on Sunday, call into Kennedy’s where you are guaranteed a friendly hospitable atmosphere as well as attentive service.
Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes. Business
Studio 1.0
This month Bloomberg‘s Inside investigates the Hinduja‘s family fortune, the election and India‘s economy. Also from Bloomberg is Studio 1.0, where host Emily Chang sits down with John Doerr and Beth Seidenberg, general partners of Kleiner Perkins Caufield & Byers. Meanwhile, EuroNews brings us Business Planet, Real Economy and Science Hi-Tech Innovation – all of which cast a cold eye over economics, technology and energy developments.
Comedy
Documentary
1916
Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a culturedefining series. Now, with four consecutive Emmy Awards for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family returns with Season 6. Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate a new episode of It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia. Also on board are episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Silicon Valley and Ballers.
News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.
The Zoo
Witness an extraordinary animal in its natural habitat, as Meet The Orangutans offers a window into the daily lives of Orangutans. Also available on board are How Do They Do it?, which looks into how wine and Gore-Tex are made, and National Geographic‘s Access 360 World heritage, which features the controversy over the Sagrada Familia.
Step into the world of food with National Geographic, as they bring us American Food Battle and Made in Italy with Silvia Colloca. Find out the secrets behind traditional Italian cuisine and ancient pasta recipes. Step inside Dublin Zoo this month with The Zoo, a show that captures the passion and expertise of the team that work with the animals.
For more on Ireland and Irish history, tune into RTE‘s documentary, 1916, which tells the story of the events that took place during the 1916 Rising or Irish Whales, which tells the story of the Irish Olympian weight throwers .
For fans of culture and art Culturefox TV offers a guide to Irish culture and events, whilst The High Hopes Choir documents the efforts of a choir to help out charities in Ireland.
Drama
It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia
Lifestyle
Sport
As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of Game of Thrones, Better Call Saul and Vikings on offer, as well as episodes from the highly acclaimed series, The Knick and new episodes of, Empire, Treme and The Newsroom. Six Nations Classic Matches
Kids
Sports fans shouldn‘t miss Guide to The Games, which takes a look at everything that you need to know about the Olympics. Also on board are Six Nations Classic Matches (a must-watch for rugby fans!), Gilette World Sports and HSBC: Golfing World 2016, for everything golf related.
Jessie
Kids may also enjoy the charming Jessie, which is a typical fish-out-of-water story of a small-town teen who leaves her Texas roots to take a job as a nanny for the Ross family’s four precocious kids in New York. Kids may also enjoy charming animated series Shaun The Sheep or an imaginative episode of Rocka-Bye Island or Pip Ahoy! AERLINGUS.COM |
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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets
Game of Thrones SEASON 5 HBO‘s television adaptation of George RR Martin‘s A Song of Ice and Fire novels, Game of Thrones, has wrapped up its fifth-season run in dramatic fashion. You‘ll find no spoilers here, naturally, but the plotlines of several major perspective characters, including Jon Snow, Cersei Lannister and Daenerys Targaryen have arrived at the points they‘ve been left hanging at in Martin‘s books. His fifth, and to date last, novel in a supposed series of seven, A Dance with Dragons, was
published in 2011, the same year that the TV show began, and we’ve read nothing new since. Which puts showrunners David Benioff and DB Weiss in a pickle, specifically unless Martin really knuckles down, they‘re out of source material for 2016‘s inevitable season six. The television show has taken a fair few narrative diversions throughout its run, and never more dramatically than it has across season five. Again, no spoilers, of the TV show kind at least, but several story threads
OU R V TOP TICE CHO that we‘ve seen on screen played out very differently on paper, with established characters filling in for lesser ones who‘ve not transferred from print to programme at all. It‘s clear to both fans of the pre-HBO lore and those who‘ve only known Game of Thrones in moving pictures alike that Weiss and Benioff are far from afraid to muck about with the fates of audience favourites, regardless of Martin‘s original stories.
A fantasy drama television series chronicling the violent struggles among the realm‘s noble families
Better Call Saul SEASON 1 The character of Saul Goodman was a favourite among many Breaking Bad fans, so the news that Walter White’s morally corrupt lawyer would be getting his own spinoff series came as the perfect antidote to our post-Breaking Bad withdrawal symptoms. Following up arguably the greatest TV series of all time would be nigh-on impossible for most, but Vince Gilligan has managed to create a quirky and dark show that is unique while simultaneously maintaining some of Breaking Bad‘s distinctive tone.
Before Saul Goodman, there was James Morgan ‘Jimmy‘ McGill. Better Call Saul follows the story of the small-time lawyer on his journey before the events of Breaking Bad. Bob Odenkirk handles the responsibility of the leading role with ease and he remains true to previous form with his outstanding performances. The charm and wit of the character remain the same but we are also given an insight into a darker and more serious side of his persona as Jimmy desperately tries to establish himself as a respectable lawyer.
Jimmy’s past as a scam artist tarnishes his reputation in the eyes of his older brother, the powerful and well-respected lawyer Chuck (Michael McKean), and throughout the series we witness their complex relationship evolve.
battles. Inspired by the tales about Ragnar Lothbrok, the legendary Viking chieftain, the series is set at the beginning of the Viking Age and follows the fearsome leader as he conquers Western Europe.
Tensions continue to mount as Bjorn, shieldmaiden Lagertha, Princess Aslaug, and Rollo each face conflicts of love and leadership. The clash between paganism and Christianity comes to a head in this season’s journey as Floki grows more suspicious of Athelstan, who continues to tread the line between his Christian God and the Norse Gods. Refusing to fall back on gratuitous nudity and excessive violence, the series also declines to spell out certain plot twists.
Stellar writing, stunning cinematography and impeccable acting make Better Call Saul an irresistible show and we are eagerly anticipating its return for Season 2. Vince Gilligan looks set to remain at the forefront of TV’s golden age.
A prequel spin-off of the Breaking Bad series based on the character of Saul Goodman
Vikings SEASON 3 A series exploring the lives and loves of a stereotypically barbaric group of Scandinavian pillagers may not have been what television was crying out for in 2013. Game of Thrones had seemingly perfected the magical-historical drama and competing endeavours such as Spartacus failed to live up to expectations. But, benefitting from the ambiguous historical narrative of the period, creator Michael Hirst (The Tudors, Elizabeth) manages to fashion an engaging and multi-faceted plotline while also staging some cinematically glorious
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Season 3 of Vikings continues to develop and build on the conflicts created in its previous two seasons. Now king, Ragnar looks further west toward lands unconquered and explores the new world discovered during the raids of Season 2. However, threats to his fledgling position continue and deception is rife.
A historical drama series following the exploits of the Viking chieftain Ragnar Lothbrok, his crew and family
A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012
J
ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.
S
ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for €5 each way.
Hooley Nights
For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person. • • • •
AWARD WINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES
Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin
l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: info@jfp.ie
www.jfp.ie
www.facebook.com/Johnniefoxspub
SEAFOOD IS OUR SPECIALITY AWARDWINNING A LA CARTE MENU
Radio On Demand On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.
Kodaline have released their highly anticipated second album Coming up for Air. The Irish group have experimented more with their sound on this album and have created hits such as Honest and The One. Aer Lingus are proud supporters of Kodaline, flying the band across our European and North American network as they perform to sell-out audiences. Exclusively to Aer Lingus guests, you can hear the guys give a track-by-track introduction to their latest album. Get to know the Dublin quartet and the stories behind their creative process and success!
TOP R ADIO PICK
Fitzpatrick Hotels Contemporary easy listening from both sides of the Atlantic brought to you by The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. CL ASSIC AL
S P O T L I G H T: KO DA L I N E
INDIE
IRISH
Blue of the Night
Late Date
TXFM‘s Indie Hits
Ceol na nGael
The Blue of the Night is a musical journey spanning a millennium of music. Presented by Carl Corcoran.
One of the best known music shows on RTÉ Radio 1, Late Date attracts a loyal audience of night owls.
TXFM brings us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as Coldplay, Grimes and Blur.
A traditional and folk music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh.
IRISH
KIDS
POETRY
When Summer’s in the Meadow Mary Brophy travels to the heartland of Irish-America to tell the story behind the ballad, Danny Boy. POP
Irish Pulse
Classical Kids
Happy Days
Irish Poetry Corner
Chart Hits
Irish Pulse brings you some of the most popular hits in Ireland right now. Listen out for Kodaline!
Ian McGlynn introduces the best composers and musicians made especially for younger listeners.
Join Emma O’Driscoll and some of her friends from Happy Days on RTÉjr Radio for a fun show.
Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets.
Tune in as Pop Chart lifts the lid on everyone's favourite pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic.
POP
ROCK
Top 20 of 2015 Weekday evenings you’ll catch ’The Fix’ with Brian Maher on 98FM from 7pm. 138 |
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The Tracy Clifford Show
Radio Nova: Marty Miller
Join Tracy Clifford for tunes, games, guests and entertainment.
Marty Miller of Radio Nova plays some of the greatest cover versions.
TA L K R A D I O
Documentary on One
Best of Moncrieff
The first documentary features an Irish Elvis impersonator; the second features a loophole in the US Immigration system.
Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues.
Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.
A L L T I M E FAVO U R I T E S
Iggy Pop
Iggy Pop Arista Heritage Series: Iggy Pop Rod Stewart The Best of the Great American Songbook The Kinks Arthur Whitney Houston I Look to You E L EC T R O
ZHU & AlunaGeorge
ZHU & AlunaGeorge Genesis Series Faithless No Roots Fatboy Slim Palookaville Galleon So I begin Saint Etienne Smash The System Singles 1990–99 OPER A
Puccini
Leonard Bernstein West Side Story Paul Potts One Chance Puccini Il Tabarro Verdi Opera’s Greatest Duets
A LT E R N AT I V E
Boots
Boots Aquaria Fiona Apple The Idler Wheel Foo Fighters Saint Cecilia MGMT Congratulations Natalie Press Side by Side The Shins Port of Morrow IRISH
Kodaline
Black Bank Folk Rising Damien Dempsey Almighty Love Kodaline In a Perfect World Stella Bass Too Darn Hot Van Morrison The Essential Westlife Gravity POP
The Chainsmokers
Fleur East Love, Sax and Flashbacks Little Mix Salute Rachel Platten Wildfire The Chainsmokers Bouquet
CL ASSIC AL
Denis Matsuev
Debussy A Debussy Recital (Entremont, Philippe) Denis Matsuev Encores Mariss Jansons & Wiener Philharmoniker New Year‘s Concert 2016 JA Z Z
Jaco Pastorius
Jaco Pastorius Jaco (Original Soundtrack) Keith Jarrett Expectations Thelonious Monk The Complete Columbia Live Albums Collection Stacey Kent Tenderly
RNB
Chris Brown
Chris Brown Royalty John Legend Love in the Future Kid Ink Summer in the Winter Stevie Wonder A Time 2 Love Usher Confessions
Our boarding music contains a number of contemporary Irish artists including Kodaline, Van Morrison, Paddy Casey, Boyzone, Hozier, The Script, HomeTown, Westlife, Sinéad O‘Connor, Bressie and Christy Moore.
COUNTRY
Old Dominion
Carrie Underwood Greatest Hits: Decade #1 Dolly Parton Blue Smoke – The Best of Old Dominion Meat and Candy Woody Guthrie Dustbowl Ballads M E TA L
Bring Me the Horizon
Bring Me the Horizon That’s the Spirit Bullet for My Valentine Fever Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Megadeth Th1rt3en Motörhead The Wörld is Yours Slayer South of Heaven ROCK
David Bowie
David Bowie Blackstar Evanescence Evanescence Jacob Whitesides Faces on Film Jimi Hendrix Electric Lady Land Kings of Leon Only By The Night
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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT
DUBLIN
Where are you flying to?
Are your bags checked through to your final destination? YES Follow signs for Flight Connections
NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.
USA
ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS
GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate
GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate
Follow signs for US Preclearance
Have all your required forms filled out.
Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status
Gate Information Screens
Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal
Passport Control and Security Screening
Hand Baggage search
Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.
Follow signs for Flight Connections
Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.
Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.
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DEPARTURE GATE
DUBLIN
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Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections Which Terminal are you flying from?
For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.
Security screening
You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.
Departure Lounge
Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.
Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.
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Shop online directly from Ireland’s best makers, artists and craftspeople
MADE IN IRELAND DELIVERED WORLDWIDE
TheIrishWorkshop.com
McCormacks Celtic Jewellers This beautiful silver pendant by Irish Designer Mags Harnett, is symbolic of so many Irish people who have Harnett emigrated from Ireland. She has used the lettering from the Book of Kells to inscribe a line from a poem by John Locke “But “ the heart will sigh for the absent land.” The pendant is available exclusively in Mc Cormacks Jewellers, a family owned store for over half a century, centrally located on Grafton Street.
A treasure trove of Irish Celtic Jewellery
51 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 00353-1-6773737 www.celticdublin.com
Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information. Edmonton Saskatoon
Calgary
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Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard
New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore
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Aer Lingus European and North American Network
Fort Myers
West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami
Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)
Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)
Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland. 144 |
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San Juan Aguadilla
We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to nine US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.
Ponce
Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.
Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow
Donegal
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(Malpensa)
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(Linate)
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Tenerife Gran Canaria
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Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!
Izmir
Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.
w
Dublin
London Heathrow
Bahrain
Dubai
Abu Dhabi
Muscat
Kuala Lumpar Singapore
Johannesburg
Cape Town
Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)
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Perth Sydney
Melbourne
290x220mm_PW_Cara_2015:Layout 1
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Staying connected on board* Mobile Network on board
Wi-Fi on board On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.
1 Switch on
With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.
Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi
2 Connect
Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.
1 Switch on
Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.
3 Purchase Internet Access
2 Aeromobile
Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a full flight pass.
Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.
4 Payment
Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.
3 Welcome SMS
Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.
5 Username and Password
Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.
4 Connected You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet.
6 Connected
** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.
International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 148 |
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You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! W ER NE W ES LO R I C P
One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 Full flight pass €14.95 | $18.95 *A330 aircraft only.
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JAMESON MINIATURE PACK €9 Why not Irish up your coffee and send yourself into a cosy snooze?
This perfectly portable manicure set with crystal nail file, curved clippers, duplex buffer and mini hoofer stick means you can give your nails some holiday pampering.
5
NIVEA MEN TRAVEL KIT €14
Realised you’ve forgotten all your toiletries during hectic packing? This Nivea Men kit has everything you’ll need, including moisturiser, deodorant, shower gel and lip balm, all under 100mls so you can stay looking and feeling fresh.
4
Skin can often become irritated and sensitive in transit. Get ahead of the tenderness with this super moisturising kit full of Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour cult beauty hits.
TIME TRAVEL
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LEIGHTON DENNY MANICURE SET €17
ELIZABETH ARDEN EIGHT HOUR CREAM ESSENTIALS €28
FEBRUARY – MAY 2016
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Prepare to have your gadget world rocked. This tiny portable recharger contains the latest in battery technology so your device will never run out of juice again. Hoorah!
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TOBLERONE GOLD BUNDLE €8 You know there’ll be war if you don’t arrive home with a Toblerone. Pick up a Gold Bundle – it’s got six bars of everyone’s favourite triangular treat so you can even have a sneaky in-flight snack.
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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | MALLORCA
TACKLING THE COBRA
BBC broadcast journalist Iain Marshall faces Mallorca’s most potent bike ride.
or many keen cyclists who come to the beautiful island of Mallorca, catching a glimpse of pro-bike riders in training – hello Bradley Wiggins – is a bigger draw than the Spanish weather, the majestic Serra de Tramuntana mountain range or Palma’s imposing cathedral. As such, the island has become a magnet for the cycling fraternity. In amongst those professionals are hordes of keen amateurs who like a bit of sunshine with their self-induced suffering. That’s how we found ourselves there in the hot month of June, heading for the Ponent Mar hotel – a base for Stephen Roche Cycling Holidays and Training Camps. Like any activity holiday, there’s little lounging around. We all had to be up for breakfast at 7.30am – which just gave us time to check the day’s route map placed on each dining table and get down to the basement bike garage in time for the briefing. Pedals started turning at 9am, our captains having split us into four groups based on ability and speed. Most rides involved climbing, and the rewards were obvious. Café stops in hilltop settlements such as Valldemossa and Galilea, made all that grinding uphill more than worth it. A typical guided ride has you back in the hotel by about 2pm. But if you fancy an entire day in
Postcards from the edge – Mallorca’s winding, mountain-side roads are like catnip to cyclists, including our writer Iain Marshall, left.
F
SPIN CONTROL
Stephen Roche’s guided rides run until May 28, and from September 17 to October 21. A three-night package costs €457 for two sharing, including accommodation. stephenrochecycling. com
the saddle there’s the famed Sa Calobra (The Cobra). This is the ultimate playground of the pro-riders on the island. It’s a snaking, 26-hair-pin, 10-kilometre strip of tarmac, which coils its way almost 700 metres down to the coast and the road’s end. The only way out is to turn and cycle back up. No self-respecting, serious cyclist should visit Mallorca without tackling The Cobra. Roche – along with Sean Kelly (who also has a business on the island) – has arguably done more than most to elevate the profile of pro-cycling in Ireland. His most famous victories were crammed into a single year – 1987. And, as if winning the World Championship road race wasn’t enough, he preceded
nt to Mallorca to his wife Jacqueline we HOPE GIVER Iain and to help raise ndon to Paris bike ride Lo ing om thc for a for train Bloodwise. They and lymphoma charity funds for the leukemia more info, ir third ‘L2P’ event – for the for g rin pa pre w are no .uk/london-paris rneurs or bloodwise.org visit justgiving.com/gu 152 |
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Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination? Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself. The editor’s decision is final.
that feat by topping the podium in the Giro (Tour of Italy), which for him had resembled a hostile environment. Sandwiched in between was Le Tour, in which he provided cycling fans with one of the race’s most celebrated exploits, when he pushed himself to near-collapse, emerging amongst the team cars on the finish line, to stay in contention when everyone had written him off. The pink, yellow and rainbow jerseys he won are on display in the office in the Ponent Mar (although he lives in the South of France). The hotel may be just on the edge of Magaluf but rowdy stag parties, drunken beach shenanigans and chronic hangovers don’t come into it. While that Mallorca may well exist – as witnessed by the prevalence of steak and kidney pie as top menu choice in seafront bars – seeing the island on two wheels is a calm and collected way of experiencing its considerable charms.
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