Cara April/May 2017

April/May 2017

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

A FINE VINTAGE

WE MEET THE NEW WAVE OF OLD CRAFTS

OLYMPIC MEDALLIST

Annalise Murphy KILKENNY • PARIS • EVERGLADES • VENICE • STUTTGART

Touchdown The law firm with local knowledge has landed in America Eversheds, Ireland’s only full service international law firm, has combined with US firm Sutherland to become Eversheds Sutherland, extending our global reach to 61 offices in 29 countries.

An exciting combination that connects you with over 400 lawyers in six commercial centres in the US, all through a single point of contact here in the heart of Dublin.

For unrivalled client service that’s expertly positioned for access to Europe, UK, the US and beyond, contact: Alan Murphy Managing Partner +353 1 6644 289 alanmurphy@eversheds-sutherland.ie

eversheds-sutherland.ie Corporate Law Firm of the Year Business & Finance B2B Awards 2016 European Pensions Law Firm of the Year European Pensions Awards 2016 Public Sector Law Team of the Year Irish Law Awards 2016

CONTENTS April/May 2017

62

Check in 06 WELCOME The latest Aer Lingus news and routes 10

ARRIVALS Our greetings to those that passed through Dublin’s T2

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CHECK IN Hot stuff around the globe, from events to people

Stay Seine

24 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Destination Brian McGinn, an LA filmmaker 26 WEEKENDER Lucy White goes hipster hunting in Brooklyn 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s top reads, literary events and downloads

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30 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins goes bananas in Split 32

ALL EYES ON ALL-IRELAND Ciaran Murphy profiles GAA season

Florida Ease

34 BALLYMALOE BOUND Eoin Higgins gets his chops around LitFest 36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO PRAGUE Marcus Bradshaw’s Czech mate

Features 40 HELLO, SAILOR! Ken Early sails through his interview with Olympic medallist Annalise Murphy 46 HERITAGE HEROES Gemma Tipton meets the new wave of age-old crafts

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54 THE CAT’S WHISKERS Kilkenny’s independent spirit charms Pól Ó’Conghaile 62 EAU LA LA! Fergal McCarthy navigates Paris’ byways and waterways 78

FERAL FLORIDA Conor Power goes wild in the Everglades

86 VENETIAN SEASON Ailbhe O’Donnell casts her lens toward the Queen of the Adriatic

86 Fabled Venice

Arty & Crafty

Coffee Connoisseurs

Regulars

Business

71

YOU SAY, WE SAY Daragh Reddin gazes over the world’s best art cities

107 BUSINESS & LIFE Stuttgart is a driving force for Daniel Ford

97

5 BEST TRAIN TRIPS Lucy White choo-chooses only the finest

114 A DAY IN THE LIFE Paddy Butler offers us a glimpse into Libreria

104 48 HOURS IN TORONTO Joe Callaghan shows us around 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Geraldine Mills conquers Málaga’s Caminito del Rey

116 TRAVEL HOT LIST What to pack, where to stay and what to read by Lisa Hughes 118 SLEEPS & EATS Melanie Mullan checks out EAST, Miami 120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Avios CEO Gavin Halliday’s words to the wise

Welcome to BROWN THOMAS the home of the world’s leading luxury brands...

Alaïa • Alexander McQueen • Bottega Veneta Canali • Céline • Chloé • Christian Dior Dolce & Gabbana • Ermenegildo Zegna Givenchy • Gucci • Hermès • Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs • Saint Laurent Paris Stella McCartney • Tom Ford Valentino • Victoria Beckham

... the very best Irish brands ...

Cloon Keen Atelier • Foxford Woollen Mills Heidi Higgins • J.W. Anderson • KDK • Lucy Nagle Louise Kennedy • Mariad Whisker • Mary Gregory Paula Rowan • Richard Malone Sphere One by Lucy Downes • Waterford Crystal

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CARA Magazine April/May 2017

WELCOME ABOARD

This season we’re all about rewarding our guests with our all-new loyalty programme AerClub. elcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly with Aer Lingus today.

Spring is synonymous with renewal and rejuvenation, making it the perfect time for us to further roll-out our new loyalty programme, AerClub.

This April, we’re excited to offer our guests even greater rewards every time they fly with us. AerClub is aimed at rewarding you for the money you spend with Aer Lingus on a host of AerClub retail, travel and leisure partners. Our Avios points programme is aimed at everyone who uses our services, turning not only your flights, but also your shopping, into rewards.

You can earn points in the air, on the ground and online. For instance, every time you fly with Aer Lingus or one of our airline partners, such as British Airways, Cathay Pacific or United Airlines, you can earn points that can be put towards purchasing future flights with Aer Lingus and our partner airlines.

You can also turn your weekly shopping into flights, through our partnership with SuperValu or one of our many other retail partners. At the Avios eStore, AerClubbers

W

can move seamlessly from buying groceries to accessing hundreds of brands, from well known clothing stores to the big electronics brands. Shopping at the Avios eStore will allow you to grow your AerClub account – and ultimately enjoy more rewards. AerClub is open to everyone, and already has more than 400,000 members. So if you haven’t yet joined AerClub, please visit aerlingus. com/aerclub – simply sign-up, collect points and watch your rewards grow.

In other exciting news, this May 27 will herald our our brand new service to Split, an historic jewel in Croatia’s Dalmatian coast. Flights will run twice daily every Tuesday and Saturday until late September, making for a beguiling sun-holiday option for all ages. Moreover, our summer 2017 schedule will also feature extra frequency on the direct Dublin to Los Angeles service, increasing from four times per week to daily. Dublin to Orlando will also grow to a four times’ weekly service, with Miami – the second string in our Floridian bow – launching a thrice weekly schedule on September 1.

Lots to look forward to, then – new rewards and new adventures.

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

JOIN THE CLUB To maximise your experience with Aer Lingus, join our AerClub loyalty programme. More points mean more benefits mean more excuses to book more getaways!

CROATIAN COAX Wondering where to go this summer?

Aer Lingus launches its new twiceweekly route from Dublin to Split on May 27, becoming our third Croatian destination after Dubrovnik and Pula.

ANGELEÑO DELIGHT Still California dreaming? So successful is our direct service from Dublin to Los Angeles that we’re increasing our schedule from four times’ weekly to daily from May 26.

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Discover more than 90 boutiques with savings of up to 60%*, including Só Collective – a new home for Irish fashion, design and craft – exclusively at Kildare Village, less than an hour from Dublin.

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Kildare Village is a proud partner of AerClub.

*on the recommended retail price.

London

Dublin

Paris

Frankfurt

Munich

Brussels

Milan

Barcelona

Madrid

© Kildare Village 2017

Suzhou

03/17

Shanghai

EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Marcus Bradshaw, Joe Callaghan, Ken Early, Daniel Ford, Al Higgins, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Pól Ó Conghaile, Ailbhe O’Donnell, Ciaran Murphy, Conor Power, Daragh Reddin, Peter Rowen, Steve Ryan

CONTRIBUTORS Water lover Fergal McCarthy is obsessed with rivers, beaches and swimming pools, and his artworks are never far from a water source.

He’s currently working on a series of drawings with artists from all over Europe exploring the current refugee crisis and the rise of rightwing politics. For Fergal’s second article for Cara, he travels to Paris – see page 62 – in search of the city’s watery highs, discovering legendary pools, authentic hammams and floating hotels.

ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Robert Power Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Sam Power, Raymond Reihill, Gina Traynor

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

Dividing her time between Dublin and Kinsale, Gemma Tipton’s love of art, architecture, design and travel keep her busy writing for The Irish Times, as well as magazines around the world. When she’s not in galleries or far-flung spots, she’s spending time with her other passion, her ex-racehorse Bosco, who loves the gallops in the Co Cork countryside. For this issue, Gemma got to know the next generation of makers who are shaking up traditional crafts in style – meet them all on page 46.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent Business Director Claire Clarke Commercial Director Justine Daly Editor-in-chief Kerry Smith Group art director Jamie McPherson

Matt Marriott is a Tampa, Florida based photographer specialising in travel, food, lifestyle, sports and underwater photography.

His regular clients include Merlin Entertainment, The Florida Aquarium, NCAA, Visit Orlando and Chanel. A regular contributor to Cara, he last shot Miami for our February/March issue. In this edition, Matt goes wild around Florida’s Everglades – see page 78.

+44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE PUBLICATIONS LTD

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

April/May 2017

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

A FINE VINTAGE

WE MEET THE NEW WAVE OF OLD CRAFTS

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

OLYMPIC MEDALLIST

Annalise Murphy KILKENNY • PARIS • EVERGLADES • VENICE • STUTTGART

ON THE COVER

Annalise Murphy photographed by Peter Rowen, with assistant Josh Rowen and stylist Corina Gaffey.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

WHO? Ivana Durand and Sophia Brámig FLYING IN FROM ... Düsseldorf IVANA SAYS ... “We’ve been here a couple of times before – I prefer Guinness to German beer.”

WHO? Olivia and James Skelton FLYING IN FROM ... Manchester OLIVIA SAYS ... “We just got married, so are having a day in Dublin before heading to LA for our honeymoon, and then back to Brisbane where we live.”

WHO? Thomas Casier FLYING IN FROM ... Geneva THOMAS SAYS ... “I’ve been living and working here for the past two years. I love Dublin, apart from the weather, although today isn’t too bad.”

ARRIVALS

Newlyweds and newbies made their way through Dublin’s T2 – Cara was there to meet them.

WHO? Nikki Rowland FLYING IN FROM ...

Paris NIKKI SAYS ... “I’ve been travelling for two years since I retired. This last trip was for nine months and I’m going to visit my sister now to collect my car.”

WORDS BY MELANIE MULLAN/ PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? Jorit Loehr and Christina Rohde FLYING IN FROM ... Hamburg CHRISTINA SAYS ... “We’re here on business but have both lived here before, so we are looking forward to catching up with friends.”

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WHO? Kelly Houston FLYING IN FROM ... Glasgow KELLY SAYS ...

“I’m going to meet a friend first and then we’re going to a conference in the Convention Centre for two days.”

| AERLINGUS.COM

WHO? Imogen Brownlie and Matthew Ashelby FLYING IN FROM ... Glasgow MATTHEW SAYS ... “It’s our first time in Dublin. I’ll probably go for a pint while Imogen checks out the shops.”

WHO? Mercedes Bofarull FLYING IN FROM ... Madrid MERCEDES SAYS ...

“I’m here this week with work, but luckily I’m back again next week for a visit.”

When you fly Aer Lingus, you‘re choosing great value fares, four- star service, central airports and all the little ways we make your journey easier.

And now you have a smart new reason to choose to fly with us. Introducing AerClub, the new loyalty programme of Aer Lingus, one that truly rewards you and helps you travel more.

AerClub is the first loyalty programme in Ireland, where you can earn rewards, not only every time you fly with us and our partners airlines, but also when you shop with a wide range of retail partners or stay in one of our partner hotels.

So with AerClub you can collect rewards in lots of ways and use them to travel more.

AerClub is our way to say thank you for choosing us.

AerClub Terms and Conditions apply. See aerlingus.com/aerclub for details.

SM A RT E A R NS RE WA RDS, SMART JO I NS AERCLU B

Join today aerlingus.com/aerclub

BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ■

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Find out what’s on, where and when in April and May

IAN MITCHENSON

Check in

POCKET ROCKET Dublin’s Shore Shots Surf Festival was going swimmingly for four years but it is relaunching this April 22-23, as the Shore Shots Surf and Adventure Festival – in the spiritual home of Irish surfing: Sligo. This move makes perfect sense, with The Model arts centre hosting much of the action, including film screenings, exhibitions and talks with artists Dorothy Cross and James Earley, and filmmaker Brendan Canty, best known for his award-winning work on Hozier’s Take Me to Church video. Big wave surfer Easkey Britton will also be leading a workshop – in storytelling, not surfing – while David Kitt and Donal Dineen are among the live music acts. How swell. shoreshots.ie AERLINGUS.COM |

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STAY

4 MAJESTIC IRISH STAYS

Castle Durrow, Co Laois From its delicious

dining to its classic decor, Castle Durrow – in the sleepy village of the same name – is a good choice for those looking for history and contemporary charm. The awardwinning, seasonal restaurant has a monthly-changing menu, while the (massive) suites are stocked with Molton Brown products and very comfortable beds. Make sure to take in the 300-year-old garden grounds while you’re at it. B&B from €202. castledurrow.com

Lough Eske Castle Hotel and Spa, Co Donegal Donegal earned the coveted number one spot on National Geographic Traveller’s Cool List for 2017 and there is no better base from which to get out and explore this pleasingly rugged landscape. For those looking to enjoy nature from within the comforts of the castle, the onsite spa overlooking the pristine estate should do just the trick. Rooms from €250. solishotels.com

Kinnitty Castle, Co Offaly Located in the

foothills of the impressive Slieve Bloom Mountains, Kinnitty is as much a product of its place as its rich history. The castle has recently undergone a comprehensive, yet sensitive, refurbishment – each of the 37 rooms maintain original features. Spend your day walking the grounds before big sing-alongs in the Dungeon Bar. B&B from €150 per night. kinnittycastlehotel.com

Ashford Castle, Co Mayo When it comes to

relaxation and recreation, Ashford castle is exemplary. Situated on the shores of Lough Corrib, the views alone are enough to help you unwind – although it’d be rude not to get royally pampered at the award-winning hotel spa.

Finish the day with a trip to the hotel’s cinema – or opt to watch your complimentary copy of The Quiet Man from the extreme comfort of your bed. Rooms from €465. ashfordcastle.com

FOOD

Make a westerly pilgrimage to the Galway Food Festival (galwayfoodfestival.com) over the Easter Bank Holiday weekend (April 13-17), where the huge foodie hoolie hosts more than 100 events. Celebrating Galway as a good food destination is no tall order as the city, as well as its rich hinterland, has become a real beacon of innovation on the Irish food and restaurant scene.

The following week (April 21-23) many of Ireland’s finest chefs, producers, market stall-holders and all-round lovers of great food converge on the beautiful coastal town of Dungarvan to celebrate the 10th annual West Waterford Festival of Food (westwaterfordfestivaloffood.com).

Highlights include Michelin-starred Belfast restaurant, OX, left, popping up for Sunday lunch in the town’s Tannery restaurant, and renowned chef Stephen Harris of The Sportsman in Kent also making a Saturday night appearance at the popular dining destination.

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NICK WILSON

Feast & West

MUSIC

WORLD NEW ORDER April 13 sees unassuming Brit dance-rockers New Order get back to the city where they first flirted with the electronica that was to propel them from the post-punk ashes of Joy Division into the iconic synthpop supergroup they are today. After an intense immersion in the 1980s New York City club scene, the band developed their distinctive rock-electronica sound and the group still hold the record for the greatest selling dance 12-inch of all time – the timeless Blue Monday. Catch the Manc guys’ noise at the world’s most iconic showplace: Radio City Hall in New York for a gig that should be ... electric. radiocity.com

Compiled by Eoin Higgins, Melanie Mullan, Nicolina Patin and Lucy White.

CULTURE

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TH LO

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Pretty in

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DANCE

TOUR DE FORCE Syria is, sadly, making news for all the wrong reasons, but the work of choreographer Mithkal Alzghair is as much a celebration of, as a lamentation for, his homeland. Presented at the Dublin Dance Festival, May 18-28, Displacement, above, uses Syrian folk dance as its starting point.

In contrast, Sunny, from the French company Emanuel Gat Dance, is a winsome work in which dancers respond to the live electronica of DJ Awir Leon, while trad ace Colin Dunne (Riverdance), presents Concert; an homage to the Irish fiddler Tommy Potts. Throw in other envelope-pushing work and and you’ve a programme to be reckoned with. dublindancefestival.ie

INK

Exploring the history of British body art, Tattoo, an exhibition at the National Maritime Museum Cornwall until January 2018, delves into previously unseen private archives and includes the incredible true story of Britain’s pioneering female tattoo artist, Jessie Knight. At the exhibition you can also see the “100 Hands Project”, based on 100 silicone arms, each tattooed with an original design by leading tattoo artists across the UK. nmmc.co.uk

the Guinness iva Stadium plays host to Av n’s bli Du OS PR L TA TO r Luke Fitzgerald th former Irish rugby sta PRO12 final on May 27, wi 12rugby.com championship decider. pro the to or sad bas am the as

PHOTOGRAPHY

PIC PERFECT The World Press Photo exhibition was first held in Amsterdam in 1955 and it’s still the first stop on the worldwide tour of the prestigious press photography contest.

This year, over several months (April 14 to July 9), visitors to the 15th-century De Nieuwe Kerk Church in the Dutch capital again have the opportunity to absorb aweinspiring, prize-winning photography from all over the world, such as this stunning shot by Cameron Spencer. nieuwekerk.nl

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DIASPORA

GREEN LIGHT Dr Noeleen Smyth is senior science officer at Royal Botanic Gardens Kew, where she heads the UK Scientific Authority for Flora. She has diplomas in horticulture from the National Botanic Gardens in Dublin and the Royal Horticultural Society, Wisley, also a botany degree and a PhD from Trinity College Dublin. As well as previously working in the National Botanic Gardens in Dublin and the Irish National Parks and Wildlife Service, she is botany editor of the Irish Naturalist Journal. kew.org

How would you describe a typical day? It might start with discussing the use of Asian orchids in cosmetics with a large multinational, followed by a separate chat about illegal logging of rare Rosewood trees in Madagascar. Then I might teach conservation policy on the Kew MSc course in Plant and Fungal Taxonomy, Diversity

and Conservation before returning to my desk in Kew’s Jodrell Laboratory to issue a permit for a guitar made of Brazilian Rosewood. The variety certainly keeps me on my toes!

What is your biggest challenge? The scale of threats to our plants and wildlife globally is enormous.

There are over 30,000 plant species listed on CITES and I have to keep an eye on any trade that might cause a plant to become threatened in the future.

Where is the most memorable place you’ve visited? A protected nature reserve in Madagascar – where Kew has an office – called Andasibe-Mantadia. I was standing beside a huge Rosewood tree and feeling privileged to see one of these rare giants protected in its natural environment, whilst the local community collected leaves for commercial cosmetics products from the same forest.

What made you move to the UK? It was May 2015. My husband had started to commute from Ireland to work in London and, with a small baby, it proved to be a very impractical arrangement. In order to put an end to it I declared that I would only ever move to London if I got the impossible, ie a job at Kew, and, well, here we are.

Where are your favourite places to visit in Ireland? The beautiful Botanic Gardens in Glasnevin, Dublin. I like heading into the Wicklow mountains at Christmas, it’s a great way to see wild plants, catch up with the young and old, and get some very fresh air. I also really miss walking on the beaches of Malahide and Portmarnock.

Biggest differences between life in Ireland and the UK? Inevitably, life is very busy in London.

Last year I travelled a lot with my job and with a small person to organise without

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family support, it can be logistically difficult. My mother-inlaw has been really great to come to the rescue on those occasions.

London is so cosmopolitan that we have lovely neighbours from all parts of the world, so there’s a nice sense of community that’s always interesting.

Where do you spend your UK downtime? We live in Twickenham, and love walking and cycling along the river Thames – the light on the river is spectacular, I can see why Turner was so inspired. On the rare occasion of a night out, we like to find some live music locally at The Fox or Prince Albert pubs.

Um, what’s with the Moomins? Our Moomin-themed Easter Festival this April 1-17 will celebrate the beauty of nature as seen at Kew, where youngsters will get the chance to learn all about flowers and trees. Now more than ever children need to feel that connection to the green that surrounds and sustains their lives, the air they breathe, the food they eat.

© MOOMIN CHARACTERS

What is your role at Kew? I offer scientific advice on flora for the Convention for the International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), to ensure that plants and plant products listed as endangered do not affect the survival of the species in the wild if they’re imported into the UK. It’s a gatekeeper role between government and industry, scientists, conservation organisations and enforcement authorities. We need our governments to sign up to agreements like CITES, but it’s meaningless if we don’t hold them accountable for their enforcement.

UNDER THE WAVE OFF KANAGAWA (THE GREAT WAVE) FROM THIRTY-SIX VIEWS OF MT FUJI. COLOUR WOODBLOCK, 1831. ACQUISITION SUPPORTED BY THE ART FUND. © THE TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM. SUPPORTED BY MITSUBISHI CORPORTATION

ART

GO EAST His name may not always be on the tip of your tongue but the artworks of Katsushika Hokusai (1760-1849) are instantly recognisable. Named after one of his most iconic woodblock prints, left, Hokusai: beyond the Great Wave at the British Museum from May 25 to August 13 brings together prints and paintings created during the last 30 years of the Japanese artist’s life, when he became increasingly interested in spirituality. britishmuseum.org

FESTIVAL

Merchants of

CHILDREN

CHILD’S PLAY Keep small ones entertained over the Easter break with a trip to The Ark children’s cultural centre in Dublin to see Jeramee, Hartleby and Oooglemore.

Visiting from the Unicorn Theatre in London from April 12-26, the play gives a child’s-eye view of the world and all its mysteries. A play that delights in innocence and glories in stupidity, it is a surprising and surreal encounter with three people who have a lot to say. ark.ie

This May 23-27, the Royal Hospital Chelsea will be humming with the sound of chatter and bumblebees, and scented with the most exquisite exotic flora, at the annual RHS Chelsea Flower Show. From ambitious show gardens and installations to a diverse children’s programme, it has something for everyone, from window-box gardeners to landscape architects. rhs.org.uk

NETFLIX

Bloom

LITERATURE

BLOCKBUSTER BOOKS The International Literature Festival Dublin returns this May 20-28, with more guest authors, workshops and talks than you can shake a bookmark at. As a prelude to the main event, Norwegian crime writer Jo Nesbø will reveal the secrets of his success at the RDS on April 21, then, on May 21 at the National Concert Hall, the German filmmaker, screenwriter and raconteur Werner Herzog (Grizzly Man; Aguirre, The Wrath of God), above, will discuss his boundary-busting career. ilfdublin.com

WORKIN’ Returning for its third year, Mojocon (MobilePicnic Journalism PICNIC TIME Closing off theMOJO Irish festival season in true mud-soaked-boots style, Electric returnsConference) for another takes three place days from May 4-6 at the Radissonand Bluart Hotel, Attracting topDel industry storytellers, including executive producer for are social and emerging media of music, food, unfettered socialising this Galway.

September 2-4. Lana Rey, LCD Soundsystem and The Chemical Brothers for CNN Worldwide Samantha Mojocon showcases in its field. mojocon.rte.ie headlining alongside fringe comedy acts, tasty food stalls, artBarry, installations and a pop-up pioneering eco-village.work electricpicnic.ie

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REWARDING You could be collecting Avios points on flights like this, to use towards a future one.

REWARDED Turn your air travel and everyday spending into reward flights to exciting destinations.

New York from 26,000 Avios return*

Collect when you fly Avios points are the currency for Aer Lingus’ new loyalty programme, AerClub. As an AerClub member you could collect them on every flight you take, just like this one. You can then use your Avios points to book reward flights.

Collect when you shop There are more ways to build up your balance.

You can collect Avios points when you shop at SuperValu, Kildare Village, Appleby Jewellers and many more. You can also collect when you book hotels around the world and when you shop online through Avios eStore with top brands including Apple, Argos and Debenhams.

Barcelona from 13,000 Avios return*

Treat yourself Once you have enough Avios points in your account you can use them towards reward flights to over 190 great destinations (taxes, fees and charges apply).

From exciting city breaks to a relaxing beach holiday, where your Avios points take you is entirely up to you.

Find out more about collecting Avios points with AerClub at avios.com/aerclub

Edinburgh from 8,000 Avios return*

* Prices are based on one adult flying off-peak economy return. Taxes, fees and charges payable in cash. Avios are issued and redeemed in accordance with Avios terms and conditions, all bookings are strictly subject to availability.

Venice from 13,000 Avios return*

Check in

Breakfast

Juniors, Dublin Juniors is a local favourite in Dublin 4.

They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner and are always packed to the rafters. Run by two brothers, this tiny little venue hits the mark big time. They serve great coffee too with proper, friendly Dublin charm but it’s their famous BLT that is seriously brilliant when it comes to pulling in the punters. The amazing tomato relish and American style bacon soak into the big thick slices of ciabatta, if you manage to finish it, it should set you up for the day ahead hitting the best of Dublin’s pubs and sights. juniors.ie

Lunch

Ristorante Conca del Sogno, Naples I worked in this beautiful part of the world for a couple of years during my training and this is a big secret that I am probably foolish for sharing ... In my opinion, Conca del Sogno is the best restaurant in the world! The dining terrace has breathtaking views over the Amalfi coast and serves the best in southern Italian cuisine. Try the linguine vongole or another classic: spaghetti zucchini. But sometimes it’s better not to even look at a menu and just go with what the Signora suggests and savour every second. Oh, and this place is only accessible by boat. How James Bond is that? concadelsogno.it

JONATHAN THOMPSON

Dinner

FOOD

FOOD FLIGHT Dublin chef Robin Gill has some big names on his CV, including Marco Pierre White and Noma. He lives in London where he runs a quartet of highly-lauded restaurants with his wife Sarah. Here, Robin – a special guest at May’s LitFest – takes us on a fantasy day of high-flying feasting.

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Uncle Boons, New York This is the best Thai food I have ever tasted, actually it’s some of the best food I have ever tasted, full-stop. They also have a serious cocktail list, try the Kaffir Daiquiri or wash down the crazy hot spice of the chicken salad with their beer slushy; it’s perfectly held in a rotating/cooling machine so that it has the silky texture of a blended, frozen margarita. They serve late on Fridays and Saturdays until midnight so I would go with a group of mates and order everything and make a real night of it. uncleboons.com

Drinks

Bar Termini Soho, London This tiny little spot in Soho is my favourite haunt in London. The slick service from the starched-white-blazered guys is so much fun. The music is always brilliant too and I never leave before closing.

They are open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner and you can actually reserve a space, which is advisable as it’s a tiny little bar that fills up quickly. They have won every award going and deservedly so, they are consistently on point and make you feel like you’re an old pal when you walk in. Pure class. bar-termini.com

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Commercial Litigation and Dispute Resolution

Tax

Banking

Matheson is pleased to announce the appointment of 12 new partners at the firm.

Matheson. The law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland.

Visit our Brexit Forum – www.matheson.com/brexit-forum: Commitment to Ireland’s future at the heart of Europe Contact our Managing Partner Michael Jackson at michael.jackson@matheson.com, or your usual contact at Matheson.

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#CARA VIEW

VENICE “This was taken in Burano, Venice when I was visiting Europe. I felt like I was in a scene from a romantic movie with all the colourful houses along the river.”

Seongmi Kim, South Korea; @modephoto_

You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Venice four times per week.

NEW YORK “This photo was taken at the famous mural on Bowery. It’s one of the most unique art installations that you’ll find in New York City. Murals at this location on Bowery are constantly changing.

I usually spend my weekends taking photographs of all the different types of street art/graffiti.”

Nathalie Hernandez, New York; @kitkatnatjam

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York twice daily, Newark daily, and from Shannon to New York daily.

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SWISS ALPS “My brother came to meet me in Switzerland while I was travelling. We stayed in Interlaken, a popular town with stunning views of the Alps. We got caught in a storm on this hike and found a lovely little mountain-top pub for refuge before continuing on. This place is a must for any adventurer.

The views are incredible.”

Nicolina Patin, California; @nmpatin

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Geneva daily.

OVER TO YOU

Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder

TORONTO “There’s no better way to start the day than with brunch. Taken at Barrio with my sister Janice, the food connoisseur, who shows me all the hidden gems in town.”

Rachel Leung, Toronto; @rachel_ell

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toronto five times per week, increasing to daily from June.

NEW YORK “I took this picture at Bow Bridge in Central Park, New York City while strolling through the park with my husband Ken. It’s a magical place at any time of year and this visit ticked the Bucket List for both of us – trip of a lifetime!”

Laura Allen, Dublin; @lauramcoffey

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York twice daily, Newark daily, and from Shannon to New York daily.

BARCELONA “My sister and I went to Barcelona for her birthday. We rarely get to see each other as I live in the UK, so sun, sangria and tapas made for a great reunion weekend together.”

Louise Canacott, Dublin; @lolacanacott

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona twice daily.

AERLINGUS.COM |

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FOR CHEF’S TABLE, I’D LOVE TO GO TO ... Spain, which is home to a lot of the pioneers of the modern dining scene. We haven’t been to China, either, which has centuries of history and so many different regions and styles of cooking. That’s the great thing about making a show like ours – every country has incredible food stories to discover because, as [chef] Magnus Nilsson says, “we all have to eat”.

MY FAVOURITE MINIBREAK DESTINATION IS ... New York.

There’s no place that gives you that rush of energy. A weekend there and I always find myself staying up ’til the early hours of the next day; at home, I’m in bed by 11. Pathetic.

“My

y : Matt G (R & K ) to e ,W to r , K n Matss (f T tM h) to mu c ( I n W fi l S ).”

I LIVE IN ... Silver Lake, between Hollywood and Downtown LA. The best way to describe it at this point is that we have roughly one artisanal coffee shop for each resident.

So my life mostly consists of endless procrastination via caffeine consumption.

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MY

Travel

NOTEBOOK LA-based filmmaker BRIAN McGINN is the brains behind last year’s Amanda Knox documentary for Netflix. He is also co-creator of the global gastronomy series Chef’s Table (also Netflix) – hence he’s giving a talk on May 20 at this year’s Ballymaloe LitFest in Cork (litfest.ie). And, as his surname suggests, McGinn is no stranger to Ireland: his Irish grandmother moved from Dublin to New York in the early 1900s.

THE MOST REWARDING THING ABOUT AMANDA KNOX WAS ... To get better as an interviewer and a storyteller.

Spending years pursuing a story and then honing a film is a real challenge, but gaining the trust of both sides invilved made it worth it. And working with master editor Matthew Hamachek (Cartel Land, If a Tree Falls, City of Ghosts) made for a great year putting the film together.

“

p R a,

I

d C‫ה‬f’s T , e e V r M n. It at ff t f e I’d be be e.”

MY FAVOURITE FOOD CITY? It’s nearly impossible to say anything other than Tokyo, but I’m going to be controversial here and say Los Angeles.

I’m biased, but the variety and quality of ethnic food is insane – the best Mexican food, Thai food, Chinese food, and on and on – plus California is a mecca for produce. LA is still underrated!

GO SMART | BROOKLYN

Damn Good Time In these post-hipster times, how does Brooklyn fare? Lucy White investigates. entrification is both a blessing and a curse – and no more so than in New York City, where its boroughs have been transformed by developers and upwardly mobile blow-ins. Manhattan, Queens, Staten Island and, to a lesser extent, The Bronx, have all witnessed seismic change, with sky-high rents sweeping through two-thirds of formerly low-income neighbourhoods, according to 2015’s State of New York City’s Housing and Neighborhoods report.

Brooklyn is the most notoriously gentrified neighbourhood of them all, with rent in Williamsburg and Greenpoint jumping by 79 per cent since 2000. Setting an entirely new, global benchmark, its hipness is so world-renowned that everywhere else is “the new Brooklyn”.

So it was with trepidation that I step off the L train at Bedford Avenue in Williamsburg – and am pleased to find that it isn’t the beard-oiled, man-bun infested place of legend, although that’s probably because they’ve moved on to something else. Like, shaving.

Interestingly, I find no discerning “trends” per se, despite peoplewatching from the windows of the agreeably unfashionable Mugs Ale

G

House (125 Bedford Ave, +1 718 486 8232; mugsalehouse.com) for a very long time (hic!).

That’s not to say Williamsburg is not brimming with discerning “industrial chic” cafés, homespun apothecaries, upcycled antique shops and highbrow boutiques that could never have existed here ten years ago – and are aimed squarely at the likes of me. Also appealing to the likes of me is the newly opened The Williamsburg Hotel (96 Wythe Ave, Brooklyn, +1 718 362 8100; thewilliamsburghotel.com), which comes from the same stylish stable as Berlin’s Soho House and Somerset’s Babington House.

Here, industrial elegance is translated through brass, marble, timber, steel, brick, copper and accents of Art Deco walloped with street art. Moreover, how many hotels can boast wallpaper designed

by Beastie Boy Mike D? If you can tear yourself away from the rooftop pool, with its cracking skyline views of Manhattan and the East River, or from chef Adam Leonti’s lip-smacking breads, then take a tour of the Brooklyn Brewery (79 N 11th St; +1 718 486 7422; brooklynbrewery.com), wake up and smell the camellia at the Brooklyn

Lofty ambitions – over the course of a decade, northern Brooklyn has inadvertently become the byword for cool, as epitomised by the stylish new Williamsburg Hotel, above.

WHAT TO PACK

Le Labo Santal 33 (100ml), €222 at lelabofragrances.com

Denim Trousers, £30 at missselfridge.com Lovern Scallop Cut Out Bag, €345 at lovernleathergoods.com

Alice + Olivia Kelli Top, €420 at brownthomas.com

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Botanic Garden in Prospect Park (990 Washington Ave, +1 718 623 7200; bbg.org), have an excellent late-night Japanese feast at AKO Sushi (205 Bedford Ave, +1 718 302 2035; akosushi.com), or take the train down to Coney Island, which really is as kitsch as you’d expect and with surprisingly fine beaches.

Williamsburg might be a victim of its own success but there’s still a community vibe here that you don’t see elsewhere. Walk along its residential streets and you’ll see garage-sale stuff left on steps and sidewalks: pre-loved books, children’s toys, whatever, all intended for a good home. It’s not littering, it’s paying it forward.

Nice one, hipsters.

Tatty Devine Geometric Link Necklace, £85 at tattydevine. com

Montpelier Parade (Harvill Secker) by Karl Geary, €15.99 at easons.com

Shore Projects Salcombe Watch, £115 at shoreprojects.com

Bobbi Brown Liquid Art Stick, €22.95 at The Loop, Dublin Airport

IRELAND’S MOST POPULAR ALE SINCE 1710

Discover over 300 years of character inside

Located less than a five minute walk from Kilkenny Castle and in the heart of Ireland’s medieval mile, is the home of Ireland’s most popular ale. Drop in and find out why The Lonely Planet listed us as one of the top 26 hottest new attractions in the world to visit in 2015. Discover stories of our rich heritage on a unique guided tour and meet some interesting characters along the way. Best of all, it’s all topped off with a perfectly poured pint of the red stuff.

book online at www.smithwicksexperience.com

and receive a10% discount off adult admission tickets The SMITHWICK’S and SMITHWICK’S EXPERIENCE KILKENNY words and associated logos are trademarks © Diageo Ireland 2017

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican browses new reads and looks forward to a literary festival and cultural podcasts.

VISIONARIES: CREATING A MODERN GUGGENHEIM

BY MEGAN FONTANELLA (GUGGENHEIM)

VASILY KANDINSKY / COMPOSITION 8 (KOMPOSITION 8), JULY 1923 / SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, NEW YORK, SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDING COLLECTION, BY GIFT, 1937 / © 2016 ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK/ADAGP, PARIS

In 1929, at the age of 68, American industrialist and philanthropist Solomon Guggenheim began collecting avant-garde European art. Under the infl uence of influence German-born artist Hilla Rebay, he put together a collection based on “non-objectivity” – pure abstraction that reflects the inner spirit, epitomised by the work, left, of Wassily Kandinsky. In 1937, he established the Guggenheim Foundation in New York: this book, coinciding with a major exhibition that runs until September 6, celebrates its 80th anniversary.

The “visionaries” are the artists (Picasso, Mondrian, Duchamp, Klee, Lissitzky, Pollock, etc) and also the six patrons (Guggenheim, Rebay, Justin Thannhauser, Karl Nierendorf, Peggy Guggenheim and Katherine Dreier) – who took a risk on them.

FICTION THE BLOOD MIRACLES by Lisa McInerney (John Murray, from April 20) She won the Baileys and the Desmond Elliot prizes for her début, The Glorious Heresies, a scabrous, hilarious account of Cork’s seething underbelly, now being made into a TV series. This “sort-ofsequel” continues the story of Ryan Cusack, still in trouble with the boss, the girlfriend and potentially the law.

FICTION HOUSE OF NAMES by Colm Tóibín (Viking, from May 18) The House of Atreus in Mycenae is cursed for generations and Agamemnon sacrifices his daughter, Iphigenia, to win the Trojan War. Finally victorious, he returns home to face his avenging wife and is avenged in turn. Tóibín moves from the Bible (The Testament of Mary) to Greek myths for another fresh, urgent, visceral recounting of ancient tragedy.

HISTORY JANE AUSTEN AT HOME by Lucy Worsley (Hodder, May 18) You won’t escape Austen in the bicentenary of her death. TV historian Lucy Worsley approaches the past through lifestyle and the way they lived then – bedrooms, kitchens, clothes and artefacts.

Here she offers a life of Austen through interiors and objects – looking at “the rooms, spaces and possessions that mattered to her”.

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DOWNLOAD

GALWAY GREATS The Cúirt International Festival of Literature has been going strong in Galway city since 1985.

This year it takes place April 23-30, with highlights including the poets Simon Armitage and Terrance Hayes reading together in the Town Hall on April 29. cuirt.ie

PODCAST Inside Culture This RTÉ favourite is back after a winter break. Presented by travel writer and broadcaster – and frequent Cara contributor – Fionn Davenport, above, it’s an in-depth, versatile look at creativity and the way we live now. A mix of interviews and features, it delves into the culture of everything from Johnny Cash to Brexit, to Bowie’s art collections to the Kilkenny Arts Festival.

Well up to the mark with reviewing new books, shows and exhibitions but not afraid to stand back and devote an entire show to Anton Chekhov or Amsterdam. Every Monday at 10pm, RTÉ Radio 1, and also available on the RTÉ Player.

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GO SMART | SPLIT

5 GOOD REASONS ...

to discover Split. Eoin Higgins bathes in the Croatian city’s beauty.

G R AH

A M CO

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HIGH PRAISE In the name of all things holy, the Cathedral of St Domnius has a long and swashbuckling history. From its beginnings in the early fourth century as the ruling seat of Roman emperor Diocletian, to its current guise as one of the oldest Catholic cathedrals in the world, the building is rich in historical sweet spots. The view over the terracotta-clad city and the surrounding sun-drenched, mountainous countryside is also glorious, if a little knee-wobbling.

BEACH LIFE Split possesses a generous bucket and spadeful of beaches, each with its own seashore personality and sandy characteristics. Near the harbour, Bacvice beach is thronged in high season and is just as popular when the sun goes down as it is for daytime lounging. Meanwhile, three kilometres further along the coast, Bene beach is the kind of chilled-out strand that sun and beach holiday dreams are made of.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SPLIT twice weekly from May 27.

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BOXSET BAZAAR Diocletian’s Palace, where historical aspects are accompanied by contemporary shops and experiences, was originally established as the retirement home of Dalmatia’s much-

chronicled Roman tetrarch.

Take an easy stroll through its fortress streets (in sturdy shoes) and absorb the buzz of bygone life emanating from its ancient walls. The palace was used as a location for the fourth season of Game of Thrones; if actual history isn’t stimulating enough, opt for one of the many tours attached to the fantasy TV show.

ISLAND LIFE Sailing along the Dalmatian Coast is one of Europe’s most pleasurable cruising experiences. Croatia is rightly renowned for its reputation as a sailing and island-hopping hub, and Split is a particularly good starting point for any such adventures. Whether you want to spend a week or an hour cruising – its jewelled waters, warm, sunny climate and scene-stealing scenery are just some of the boons worth relishing while aboard.

EDENESQUE PROPORTIONS It’s a trek but to be able to say “I’ve been to paradise ...” is probably worth the excursion. And a virtual Eden it certainly is: with its terraced, turquoise lakes, ancient limestone canyons and awe-inspiring waterfalls, Plitvice Lakes National Park is as close an approximation of an imagined Heaven on Earth as you may have the pleasure of experiencing. np-plitvicka-jezera.hr

OUR DOORS ARE OPEN

now OPEN

Book now at jamesonwhiskey.com

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All Eyes on All-Ireland he GAA Gaelic Football championship begins every summer and, for four months from May 7, the country will follow the fortunes of their favourites. Thirty-three teams – including London and New York – will get whittled down to two for the All-Ireland final, played out in front of 83,000 people in Dublin’s Croke Park on September 24.

In the last four years, Dublin have ended the season as champions on three occasions. Already they are recognised as one of the greatest teams in the history of the sport and, if they were to finish this summer as champions, they would become the first team in 31 years to win three titles in a row.

They stand second in the overall list of winners since the first AllIreland final was played in 1887, Kerry being well out in front as the most successful team historically, with 37 wins to Dublin’s 26.

Kerry remain one of the main contenders for Dublin’s crown as the undisputed kings of football

©INPHO/JAMES CROMBIE

As May returns, so too does GAA championship football. Ciaran Murphy looks forward to some fierce inter-county rivalry.

T

GETTY/STEPHEN MCCARTHY

sport. They have lost at the final hurdle eight times in the last 27 years but remain perhaps the team best positioned to end Dublin’s hegemony in 2017.

Gaelic football is a way of life in communities up and down the country and nowhere is it more feverishly supported than in the North of the country. Counties such as Donegal and Tyrone, recent All-Ireland winners from Ulster, will be strong again this year.

The All-Ireland football final is regularly the most-watched event on Irish television and, come September 24, the eyes of the nation will once again be trained on Croke Park to see who will take home “Sam” and secure a place in history.

currently, but the team who got closest of all to the reigning champions last year was another team from along the Wild Atlantic Way – Mayo.

For 66 years, since their last win in 1951, Mayo have waited to welcome the famous Sam Maguire trophy back to their county. In 2016, they took Dublin to a replay before eventually losing by a single point in a dramatic All-Ireland final.

Mayo are, in many ways, the ultimate hard luck story in Irish

Top, clash of the titans, Dublin vs Kerry is always a hard-won battle; above, a victorious Dubs team hoist “Sam” aloft.

3 MORE SEASONAL SHOWDOWNS CHICAGO Chicago Cubs vs LA Dodgers, April 10 The Chicago Cubs ended a 108-year drought when they won baseball’s World Series last November. Their ball-park, Wrigley Field, left, has long been a magnet for baseball fans – experience the thrill of a game in one of the USA’s most beloved stadia when the mighty Cubs meet the slick Dodgers this April.

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EDINBURGH European Rugby Champions Cup Final, May 13 After a tough couple of years, it appears as if Irish club rugby is back.

Leinster and Munster both stand an excellent chance of getting to Edinburgh (Murrayfield Stadium) in May for another crack at a European title. The final seldom disappoints, with supporters from all across Europe converging on the host city.

LONDON FA Cup Final, May 27 Many Irish players have graced Wembley Stadium on FA Cup Final day. Giants such as Roy Keane, Ronnie Whelan, Liam Brady and, more recently, James McCarthy, have all sampled success in one of the world’s most glamorous soccer cup competitions – one that remains the boyhood stuff of dreams for kids on either side of the Irish Sea.

Now at Dublin Airport connecting passengers can get a personal assistant It’s called DUB HUB and it’s a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight. It couldn’t be easier with:

Free WiFi

No data roaming charges

No log in

No download necessary

DUB HUB is available in Deutsch, English, Español, Français, Gaeilge and Italiano.

Simply go to dublinairport.com/dubhub or scan this code.

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Ballymaloe Bound

ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA McAREE

LitFest, the “food and drinks literacy festival”, takes place May 19-21 at Ballymaloe House and Cookery School in Co Cork. Eoin Higgins highlights the best in show. litfest.ie

THE DRINKOLOGISTS Beverage highlights include cocktails, a talk and a tasting from Ally Kelsey of the multi award-winning White Lyan cocktail bar in East London and Cork-based Andy Ferreira of cool new bar Cask. Winner of “Most Creative Bar” from Time Out, White Lyan (whitelyan.com) is the first bar in the world that stocks no perishables – no ice, no citrus or other fresh fruit. Meanwhile, Cask’s genial Andy has a passion for the foraged ingredients concept.

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THE GREEN SCRIBE Karen Leibowitz, founder of environmentally sustainable San Francisco restaurant The Perennial, and renowned cookbook co-author (Atelier Crenn: The Metamorphosis of Taste; Mission Street Food: Recipes and Ideas from an Improbable Restaurant) and food writer (The New York Times, the cultfollowed Lucky Peach), joins LitFest in a number of events including an in-conversation session with Dan Saladino of BBC Radio 4’s popular Food Programme.

THE IBERIAN HERO There are oodles and bushels of cooking demos to indulgently consume over the weekend but a highlight will surely be Monika Linton of Brindisa fame. This is a chance to hear the story of how one woman’s passion for Iberian eats has birthed a chain of six very successful restaurants in London and Barcelona, a thriving import, wholesale and retail business, as well as being a catalyst in the regeneration of London’s Borough Market.

THE EDITOR Condé Nast Traveller international editor David Prior will generously ply hungry audiences with his tall tales of global adventures on the food trail and how a life “on tour” has inspired his own culinary scribbles.

Contributing editor at Vogue Living, and a contributor to The New York Times, Monocle, and Modern Farmer, Prior has also furnished readers with a series of tasty niblets through his popular monthly recipe column in Delicious magazine.

THE SNOOP Investigative food journalist, Joanna Blythman, will present a must-hear talk appropriately titled “Thorn in the flesh of the processed food industry and supermarkets”, continuing her insightful and authoritative commentary on the food chain. Author of seven books including Swallow This: Serving up the Food Industry’s Darkest Secrets; What to Eat; Shopped and Food We Eat, she has won many awards for her erudite writing.

FUN, ADVENTURE AND RELAXATION AWAITS in The Most Complete Resort in Ireland

With over 350 acres to explore and a wealth of estate activities on offer, Ashford Castle is the perfect destination for fun, adventure and relaxation for all the family.

Estate Activities include: · Spa and fitness centre · Horse riding and equestrian centre · Ireland first school of falconry

· Fishing lessons and day trips · Cycling and kayaking · Clay shooting and archery

www.ashfordcastle.com

· Zip lining and tree climbing · Lake cruising and Private boat charter · Golf and tennis

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A bizarre retirement home for old statues, the LAPIDÁRIUM is an often overlooked part of the National Museum. Here you’ll find massive city gates, old Austrian generals and many of the original statues from the Charles Bridge, all moved indoors for safekeeping. (Výstavište 422, +420 702 013 372; nm.cz)

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

PRAGUE

The ANTHROPOID MOVIE TOUR follows two Czechoslovak commandos (played by Jamie Dornan and Cillian Murphy, above) in their daring mission to assassinate the most senior Nazi in Prague. Watch the movie in an independent cinema, before setting off with a guide to see the real locations.

(Biskupcova 31, +420 778 030 508; anthropoidtour.com)

JAKUB JEL

SEAN & YVETTE

VINOHRADSKÝ PIVOVAR is an old brewery that was restarted in 2013, after decades of neglect during the Communist era. The food is great, the homemade beer is fantastic, and you can even look through the windows and see the brewers at work. (Korunní 106, +420 222 760 080; vinohradskypivovar.cz)

EN

Kildare native Marcus Bradshaw is our Czech mate, showing us his favourite haunts.

MORE ABOUT MARCUS

Marcus Bradshaw has lived in Prague since 2013.

“I never tire of Prague’s beauty, it just fills my soul.

Also, beer is cheaper than water here and transit is fantastic, so it’s a very liveable city.” He runs his own walking tour company – Naked Tour Guide – offering cool, offbeat jaunts around the city. nakedtourguideprague. com

Located in the happening Holešovice district, JATKA 78 is a theatre, gallery and bar complex housed in a former slaughterhouse.

It is also the home of contemporary circus company Cirk La Putyka, making it one of the most exciting venues in Prague. (Prázská tržnice, +420 773 217 127; jatka78.cz)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PRAGUE five times per week.

DON’T MISS

Dodge the Charles Bridge crowds at TRICAFE. Tucked away on a tiny, cobbled square, this hideaway offers great coffee, sumptuous cake and a warm welcome from friendly staff. (Anenská 3, +420 222 210 326; tricafe.weebly.com)

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On May 1, hundreds of couples will kiss under the cherry blossom in PETRÍN PARK. Huge lines form beside the statue of poet Karel Hynek Mácha, who penned the words: “Late evening on the first of May – the twilight May – the time of love.”

Opened for plague victims in the 1660s, OLŠANY CEMETERY is now an intriguing hodgepodge of trees and monuments, shadows and birdsong, as well as the burial place of more than two million people. (Vinohradská 153; hrbitovy.cz)

WHERE ROYALTY & ICONS MINGLE…

Princess Grace

A LS O F EATU RI NG ONE OF THE GREATES T PRI VATE COLLE CTIONS OF ORI GI NAL AUD REY HEPBU RN COU TU RE I N EX I STENCE

Michael Jackson

Marilyn Monroe

Princess Diana

Located in the Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre, the Museum of Style Icons boasts a world-class collection of some of the greatest style and cinema memorabilia ever to exist. The collection includes garments worn by Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Diana, Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Liza Minnelli, Elvis, Tippi Hedren, The Beatles, Michael Jackson, Kim Kardashian and so much more.

THE M US E UM O F ST Y L E I C O NS AT N E WBRI DGE S I LV ERWA RE, N EWBRIDGE, CO. KILDA R E , I R E L A N D .

M U SEUM | V IS ITO R C E NT R E | S I LV E R R E S TAURAN T T: 3 5 3 (0 ) 4 5 4 3 1 3 0 1 . SH O P ON LI N E AT WWW. N EWBRI D GES ILVERWAR E.CO M

From top, left to right; Lir Oval Pendant with Mixed Stones - RRP €40. Ti:Amo Rhodium Plated Infinity Bangle - RRP €40. Ocean Silverplated Bangle - €40. Forever Young Silverplated Lace Ring With Clear Stones - RRP €20. Ceol Silverplated Neckpiece - RRP €75.

Ladies Rectangular Watch - €59. Goddess Earrings With Coloured Stones - RRP €25. Ti:Amo Rhodium Plated - Be Irresistible Bangle - RRP €40. Spiral Silverplated Pendant - RRP €40.

See more at www.newbridgesilverware.com

CEO L COLLECT I O N WI T H N AO M I CA M P B ELL

INTERVIEW

Hello,

! r o l i a S Sailing is in Annalise Murphy’s blood, but it was sibling rivalry that sharpened her focus to get Olympic-ready. Now, she has the World Championships in her sights – and winning gold at cookery school.

WORDS KEN EARLY PHOTOGRAPHS PETER ROWEN

A

nnalise Murphy has done a lot in her 27 years. She’s an Olympic silver medallist, a European champion, has travelled the world. And, best of all, she remembers almost every minute of it.

It quickly becomes apparent, as she recounts the timeline of her sailing career, that she has an uncanny ability to recall details of races from ten or more years ago.

She remembers dates, venues, performances, results. Most athletes would have to look this stuff up. She smiles when this is pointed out. “I do have a weird memory for things like that. I can remember races, race courses, training sessions ...”

Sailing, Murphy says, is all about tactics and strategy. If you can carry a mental map of the race course, if you can remember all the details you worked

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on in training, and rehearse or replay them in your mind – that can be a big advantage. It was only quite recently, after a conversation with her training partner, the New Zealand sailor Sara Winther, that Murphy began to understand that she was a little bit better at this than most people.

“I didn’t realise that everyone didn’t think like this until about a month before the Rio Olympics. Then myself and Sara were talking about the six Rio courses.

I was talking about how the wind affected the Niterói one, when it was coming from different directions ... Sara’s like, ‘How the hell do you remember all this? I can’t even remember what we did yesterday!’ That was when I started to realise – hang on a second, I actually think I might have something here that other people don’t have.”

A top sailor also needs visceral qualities.

“You have to be aggressive – that’s

INTERVIEW

Annalise Murphy of Ireland celebrates winning the silver medal in the Women’s Laser Radial class on Day 11 of the Rio 2016 Olympic Games at the Marina da Gloria on August 16, 2016 in Rio de Janeiro.

something I struggle with. It’s not that people need to be scared of you. But if they don’t have respect for you, they’ll try to mess you up.”

She sharpened her competitive instincts from an early age, with help from siblings Claudine and Finn. “I’m the middle child. So I got bullied by my older sister and younger brother. My sister used to draw pictures of this family of tall blond people, and then she’d draw a small, fat, brown-haired person that was meant to be me. They ganged up on me a bit ...

“Claudine is three years older than me, so I would always get to do whatever she was doing. She’s probably the reason I’ve done so well in sailing. When she was 15, she said ‘I want to go to the Olympics’. I just thought, ‘cool!’”

The family already includes one Olympian – their mother, Cathy McAleavey, who sailed for Ireland in the 1988 Seoul Olympics. Like mother, like daughters, in 2008 Annalise and Claudine raced in the World Championships in New Zealand. Annalise did well.

“Up until then, it seemed stupid to talk about the Olympics. I never thought I was actually good enough.

That was the first time I thought: this is what I want to be.” With two sisters chasing the same dream, the rivalry started to heat up.

“We fought a lot, when I started to get better than her.

I remember one event in Whitstable, England, she turned to me and said, ‘If you beat me in this race I’m gonna kill you!’ We fought our way around the course; we went from doing very well in the race to being nearly last by the end.

A disaster, really.

“Mum brought in a sports psychologist, basically to stop us from killing each other. She made us draw a picture of what we wanted to have in life. I drew a picture of me, at the Olympics, sailing. My sister drew a picture of her at the

CLIVE MASON/GETTY IMAGES

“Rio made me believe again that I do have the ability to ... well, be the best in the world”

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Bailey Lighthouse, Howth

STUNNING CLIFF WALKS, FRESH SEAFOOD AND BEAUTIFUL SCENERY, MINUTES FROM THE CITY.

INTERVIEW

A Rathfarnham native, Annalise – and Grand Marshal at this year’s St Patrick’s Day Parade in Dublin – spends a lot of time at Dún Laoghaire’s National Yacht Club, where her family are all members.

won silver at the Rio Olympics, the first Irish sailor to win an Olympic medal in 36 years.

“When I was coming in off the water in London, all I was thinking about was Rio and what I could do better over four years. Coming in off the water in Rio, all I was thinking about was ‘Woooo! I can go partying tonight!’”

Since Rio, Murphy has done a few races, nothing too strenuous, and some gym work. “It’s great to be at home. I’ve missed out on so many birthdays and weddings because I’m always away training or competing. I love being in Ireland.

I’ve been to nearly every country in the world and I still don’t think I’d like to live anywhere but here.”

In January she started the 12-week residential course at Ballymaloe Cookery School, Co Cork. “It’s class but it’s not athlete food at all. Every dish starts off, ‘Put 100 grams of butter into the pan’.

One day we had kale salad at lunch.

I thought, ‘this is delicious, I’m gonna get more of it’. And then in the afternoon demonstration, they made it. And it’s like, “So, put your

kale in. Now, get 400 millilitres of cream ... 200 grams of sugar ... and pour it on top of the kale.’ It’s basically a kale cake! Watch out for the salads down there ...”

The ambitious part of her already wants to get back to work.

She thinks Tokyo 2020 will be her last Olympics but her next goal is the Laser Radial Women’s World Championships, which take place in the Netherlands in August.

“I’m starting to get that feeling back. I guess Rio made me believe again that I do have the ability to ... well, be the best in the world. I’ve had moments where I have been, but not consistently.

“I’m looking at Serena Williams’ career. At one point it felt like she’d achieved all she could. And then she started working with a new coach, who said, ‘why don’t you start going for records?’ And that gave her a new reason to want to keep on getting better. That’s for me. I want to be world champion.

That’s something I’ve never done.

“It would be pretty amazing to be able to say that I was the best in the world at this for a while.”

The Likes of Annalise

AUDIO “I’m obsessed with podcasts.

I started out with Serial a couple of years ago, and I listen to a lot of Jarlath Regan’s An Irishman Abroad. I’ve also got really into Pod Save America. It’s by four of Barack Obama’s former advisers and speechwriters, and they slate Donald Trump a lot ... it’s good though, they talk to a lot of different experts – top lawyers, Democrats – it’s pretty interesting.”

FILMS “I do so many long-haul flights that I watch a lot of movies. I try and read books on flights but just end up watching movies. I saw Star Wars: Rogue One and

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was completely confused. I thought it was episode eight and was like, “when are the Skelligs gonna show up?” It was only at the very end I realised actually it was episode ... three and a half?”

TV “I’m a big Game of Thrones fan. But I’ve found with TV, if I start watching a box-set series, I get addicted and I can’t stop watching it, and I get into kind of a dark place. I started watching Prison Break. The first season is really good and then it gets progressively more average after that. But they’ve reeled you in, you have to just keep watching. One episode a week, now – that I can handle.”

COVER: LEATHER JACKET, WHISTLES AT BROWN THOMAS, T-SHIRT, WAREHOUSE, JEANS, TOPSHOP; JUMPER, ISABEL MARANT AT COSTUME, JEANS, ANNALISE’S OWN; BOMBER JACKET AND T-SHIRT, ISABEL MARANT AT COSTUME, JEANS, ANNALISE’S OWN.

Olympics sailing, her being a doctor, all of her friends – she had about 20 things on her page.

“She wants to do so many things in life, and she’s got to do so many amazing things because of that – she qualifies as a doctor this April.

I just had this one thing that I so wanted to do. In the end she kind of became my biggest supporter.”

In 2012, Murphy came fourth in the Women’s Laser Radial class at the London Olympics, slipping agonisingly out of the medal positions in the final race. “I was completely heartbroken. I felt like I’d thrown away such a good opportunity. I had this horrible fear that maybe I’d never get to that level again.”

Together with coach Rory Fitzpatrick, sports psychologist Kate Kirby and training partner Sara, she focused obsessively on one question: how could she do better next time? There were long, painful hours building core strength on the hiking bench, three-hour mountain cycles and experiments with a series of diets of varying grimness. It paid off on August 16 last year, when she

KNITWEAR since 1823

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BLARNEY | BUNRATTY | TIPPERARY

The Photographer WHO Alex Sapienza WHAT Wetplate photographer at The Analogue Studio

It’s the eyes that initially arrest in Victorian photography. They seem to glow out of shaded faces. It’s a timeconsuming process too; you have to sit still and try not to blink, so there are no quick pout-and-snap selfies here.

Instead the haunting images are more like deep, timeless character studies than Instagram moments.

Having grown up in Rome, Alex Sapienza came to Ireland in the mid-1990s on a visit and never left.

He had studied cinematography and photography in Italy, and for the past five years has been creating extraordinary portraits from his South William Street studio (theanaloguestudio.ie) using techniques not seen for more than a century. “I fell in love with the process,” he says, and it’s an approach that has appealed to some well known names: Mel Gibson, Adam Clayton, Bob Geldof and Olwen Fouéré, all of whom he has shot using a Victorian camera with a technique dating from 1851.

When we speak, he is working on an exhibition of portraits of people from the Irish creative industry for The Dream Factory Studios in Los Angeles. “There is nowhere to hide with this style of photography,” he says.

“I capture a moment in time, on a glass or aluminium plate, that can never be replicated.”

Inspirational spot? “My inspiration comes from people watching. You can just come across the most amazing faces. And although I tend to go abroad a lot, I still find myself drawn to Kerry, particularly Slea Head.”

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Heritage HEROES

Sometimes, revived traditions are in reaction to a fastchanging world. Other times, they’re simply a labour of love.

We meet the new faces of old-school arts and crafts.

WORDS GEMMA TIPTON PHOTOGRAPHS AL HIGGINS

ight heritage crafts be just a little musty, dusty and dull? Not a bit, as there’s a new wave of makers in Ireland shaking up what once might have been considered redundant crafts. From iron work to hand-painted signs, it’s about thinking anew and getting physical with materials while adding a contemporary twist to age-old skills.

The skills themselves reach back through centuries of life in Ireland, to times when blacksmiths were hot-shoeing horses and coopers crafted the barrels that those horses would pull on drays to your local pub. There,

M

you might find a stained-glass window, made by a local artisan; and the sign over the door?

It would have been hand-painted by someone who had learned their letters from a line of previous masters.

For a while it seemed as if the world was turning its back on these traditions and they were seldom seen outside folk parks and museums. But, before they could become completely lost, a new generation has taken up the mantle. These are the people who are re-shaping their making to suit today’s world.

After all, that’s how tradition survives, by adapting to each new era and making itself new. The future is in good hands, literally.

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PEOPLE | ARTISANS

The Word Worker

WHO Vanessa Power WHAT Signs of Power sign painter

Saving the city from a rash of neon and plastic, Vanessa Power is part of a renaissance in hand-painted signage, reviving an art form that defines space and place. Cafés, shops and bars have been quick to spot the advantage of something painted perfectly and with love, and Vanessa’s work (signsofpower. com) points the way to some of the city’s hottest spots, from Fumbally Exchange to the Abbey Theatre and Peacock Stage.

So, apart from a steady hand, what do you need to excel? One thing is a head for heights – and Power admits that at first she wasn’t too keen on being at the top of a ladder – but her passion for the work took over, and she hasn’t looked back. “It’s the endless possibilities

with sign painting I find so intriguing,” she says. “There are just so many shade variations, colour ways, techniques and different typestyles.

And I love that it’s so hands on and that every job I paint is different.

I lose track of time when I paint so I’m no longer watching the clock, as I was when I was working in an office.”

Having come from a career in web design, Power describes discovering sign painting as “that eureka moment of ‘that’s what I want to do!’” Inspired by the world around her, she’s especially intrigued by the things people say: so watch out – or speak up, you may find your words on a wall.

Inspirational spot? “I love being close to the city centre. Dublin is definitely one of my favourite places. I don’t feel as relaxed in any other city.”

The Cooper

WHO Chris Kane WHAT Barrel maker at Bushmills Distillery Where does character come from?

With an Irish whiskey, about 80 per cent derives from the cask, which is why the ancient skill of coopering is so important. Chris Kane, the first cooper to qualify in Ireland in over a generation agrees. “Without the barrels, there would be no Bushmills Irish Whiskey as we know it. That means I’m constantly crafting, mending and maintaining the casks to make sure we extract the best flavours from the wood.”

Kane is the fourth generation of his family to cooper casks for the distillery (bushmills.com). His great grandfather, Jimmy Kane, started in 1935, followed by his grandfather, Johnny, in 1951. Chris himself learned from his father Alastair, who he describes as his hero. “My dad

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began teaching me the art of coopering at the age of nine; I remember the walls were full of old tools, some of which we still use today, and I’m immensely proud to work with him, side-by-side.”

Bushmills born and bred, Kane is also a keen advocate for the area, where he lives just a stone’s throw from the distillery. “It’s brimming with beautiful scenery. In the summertime, it’s the perfect backdrop for a walk up on the cliffs or a road trip along the coast.” It’s a timeless landscape, which is also true of his craft: “We haven’t changed one thing about the way we mend our barrels – you could say ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’.” Cheers.

Inspirational spot? “I’m regularly found at Portballintrae boat club, which runs along the famous Giant’s Causeway.

The rocks and beaches here are excellent for sea fishing and surfing.”

PEOPLE | ARTISANS

The Press Gang

WHO Dave Darcy WHAT Letterpress printmaker with One Strong Arm Press Witty, wise and engaging, Dave Darcy’s letterpress prints are made to commission, through collaborations, and sometimes because he just can’t help himself but create. The name “One Strong Arm” (onestrongarm.com) lets you know how physical the work can be, and his city-centre studio is packed with presses, tools and drawers of antique wood and metal type. Having worked as a graphic designer, Darcy’s introduction to letterpress came through the opportunity to spend time in Dublin’s National Print Museum.

There, meeting printers who were producing contemporary work using a medium that Darcy had, as he puts it, “mistakenly resigned to the history books”, sealed the deal. Quality and craft is something that will resonate, he says, even if

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you’re not entirely sure what it is that’s calling you. He likens good printing to other must-love moments, including spending time with vinyl records and good whiskey.

As a designer turned printer, he never tires of experimenting, though he agrees that he does see various motifs recur. A love of language resulted in the Me Jewel and Darlin’ Dublin exhibition, and a series of posters celebrating what Roddy Doyle described as the Irish “healthy contempt for grammar”. “I feel very lucky to do what I do,” he adds.

Inspirational spot? “It might well be the Poolbeg lighthouse on the South Bull Wall. The view back towards the city is always amazing and always different. You don’t have to look too far in Dublin for inspiration, we seem to be spoiled at the moment with so many great folks creating work here.”

The Metal Workers

WHO Gunvor Anhøj and Michael Calnan WHAT Contemporary blacksmiths Denmark-born Gunvor Anhøj, left, met her creative partner and husband Michael Calnan when they were both studying blacksmithing at Hereford in the UK, which means even if it was a match made in heaven, it was also forged in fire and iron. Anhøj herself discovered the craft after studying horticulture and needing to repair an old iron plough tip.

“Being a contemporary blacksmith demands an equal mix of intuitive, creative and physical abilities,” she says. “So it’s very satisfying.” She’s absolutely passionate about her materials and the process. “I work best if I’m allowed design intuitively at the forge – drawing on paper never did it for me.” The pair share studio space (calnan-anhoj.ie), but tend to design and make their own work.

An exception being a piece made together, which was presented to senator George Mitchell in 2016 as part of the New York City St Patrick’s Day Parade, which Anhøj describes as her “most proud moment”.

The duo’s work is expressive and exciting, making the metal flow, and then freeze into sculptural shapes.

Describing her medium, Anhøj quotes her hero, American artist Beverly Pepper, who said: “People don’t think iron can be poetic, but even a human tear has iron in it”.

Inspirational spot? “Our current studio is based on the grounds of Russborough House, Co Wicklow.

The woodlands are amazing and there’s also the most spectacular view of Wicklow’s rugged mountains. I really love this place and highly recommend a visit if you’re travelling to Ireland!”

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The Glassmaker

WHO Bianca Divito WHAT Stained-glass artist

If you think that making stained glass is a peaceful, meditative thing, think again.

Award-winning stained-glass artist Bianca Divito likes to go straight to her studio, attached to her home at The Old School House in Coolgreany, Co Wexford, and crank up the music. “I’ll blare repetitive house music and experiment with materials. This approach hasn’t let me down yet!” says the artist (biancadivito.com), who learned her love of the craft from her father, Joe. He worked with glass, as well as running the family business – a café in Arklow, Co Wicklow.

“I would spend hours as a child watching my father create intricate glass art for his clients, so it was a natural progression for me.” Now, working alongside her husband, landscape designer Damien Keane, and juggling work with new baby Ruby (“she’s rocking our world”), Bianca works to commission and on conservation projects, as well as on personal pieces.

“What do I love? I’m a people person and I love to create bespoke pieces for my clients. I’m taking time-honoured design and craft techniques and innovating with them to create ‘forever’ art works, and that’s a really special thing to do.” Ireland is rich in stained glass and Divito describes her awe for Irish master Harry Clarke, and his skill and artistry. Creating magic with colour and light is pretty awe inspiring too.

Inspirational spot? “I love to visit Italy, Tuscany in particular. We hope to retire there in the future but we have a while to go yet …”

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DESIGNING, WEAVING & TAILORING

Menswear, Womenswear & Accessories Magee of South Anne Street, Magee at Arnotts & Magee of Donegal Selected stockists in Ireland & UK Magee1866.com

DESTINATION | KILKENNY

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THE CAT’S

Whiskers

Kilkenny is the Medieval capital of Ireland, but there’s a lot more to it than castles, churches and cathedrals to nourish the soul.

WORDS PÓL Ó CONGHAILE PHOTOGRAPHS STEVE RYAN

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DESTINATION | KILKENNY

TOMB RADAR Centuries in the making (and five years in the excavating), a new Medieval Mile Museum has opened in the 13thcentury St Mary’s Church, housing Renaissance tombs, the 1609 charter of King James, interactive displays and crisply carved crosses. medievalmilemuseum.ie

“W

hen I think of David,” Madonna once said, “I think of blue.” David Collins was a maverick Irish interior designer, famed for everything from Alexander McQueen and Jimmy Choo stores to Claridge’s Bar in London.

Madonna was and is, well ... Madonna. She wrote the words in a tribute that appeared in MR PORTER’s Journal after Collins died in 2013. “When I look around my houses in New York or London, I am struck by what an influence he has had on me,” the superstar continued. “He has left his souvenirs everywhere ...”

He has also left them in Kilkenny. When I check into Langton House Hotel (see ‘Sleep at’ on page 58), I’m surprised to find that Collins and his studio designed its John Street Suites, tearooms and other set-pieces (blue swims subtly through the place, from 56 |

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Clockwise from above left, Kilkenny Castle is a must-visit for the first-timer; sisters Blanaid and Roisin Hennessy, who have helped build the Folkster empire as a family – which also includes the Langton House Hotel; lose yourself in the town’s alleys and shortcuts.

mosaic tiles to elegant leather chairs). Think of Langton’s as a social hub for everything, from weddings to stags, hens and Kilkenny hurlers – but there is more to it as, indeed, there is to the city.

In recent years, artist Conor Langton and Blanaid Hennessy, who run the vintage-inspired boutique Folkster (27 Patrick Street, 056 770 3312; folkster. com), have been adding new design edits. A pewter bar sparkles here. A leafy, Parisian-influenced dining room there. It feels international but, at one stage, I also spot retired hurler DJ Carey in the tearooms.

Only in Kilkenny.

“This city is such a vibrant mix of creative people, sports lovers, tourists, small business owners, international success stories and more,” Hennessy says.

“The ‘can-do’ attitude is contagious. Kilkenny just seems to have caught that bug.”

Here is a city famous for its Medieval Mile, its stunning castle and St Canice’s Cathedral. But braided through this ancient tapestry, scattered along tightknit streets and alleys with names such as Butter Slip and Poyntz Lane, is a thriving scene of shops, galleries, pubs, cafés and restaurants. Its quality and detail goes way beyond the city’s reputation as a weekend escape.

“I’d like to think we’re starting the next wave of craft beers,” says Ian Hamilton, a master brewer talking me through the plans for Sullivan’s Brewing

Pottery | Crafts | Gifts | Crystal | Jewellery | Knitwear | Fashion

DESTINATION | KILKENNY

SLEEP AT …

DESIGN Langton House has been a social crossroads since the 1930s, something to consider if you’re booking one of its 34 rooms at the weekend.

Food and drink are served over several spaces but the big surprise lies in the design – with the David Collinsdesigned John Street Suites among the sweetest in the city. There’s city-centre parking, too. (67 John Street Lower, 056 776 5133; langtons.ie)

Company (16 John Street Lower, 056 779 7980; sullivansbrewingcompany.com). “Our Maltings Red Ale is not about just one note ... It kind of whispers as you go through it, layer by layer.” Sullivan’s was first established in 1702, which makes it older than Smithwick’s, whose own, state-of-the-art visitor experience has won rave reviews on Parliament Street (056 778 6377; smithwicksexperience.com). Sullivan’s ceased production in the last century but is today being revived by the Smithwick family. All of its malting barley is grown locally, and you can nab a pint and a wood-fired pizza at its John Street taproom for all of €12.

Meanwhile, in off-radar Irishtown, Laura and Rory Gannon are bringing similar energy and skill to Cakeface (see ‘Eat at’ on page 60), a funky patisserie where meticulous desserts draw the eye in a room splashed with street art, bench seats and sandwich menus handwritten onto giant rolls of brown paper (mine’s a Tipperary Piedmontese pastrami with horseradish slaw, mixed greens and tomato and chilli chutney). The couple came to Kilkenny via stints in five-stars including London’s The Savoy Hotel, and though just a few months old, Cakeface already feels like part of the city’s foodie furniture.

Bright ideas are everywhere, like flecks in tweed.

WATERSIDE Kilkenny has a neat selection of über-central four-stars, including the Pembroke, Ormonde and Langton’s, all within a stone’s throw of the castle. The River Court is another, boasting a terrace and aptly-named Riverside Restaurant overlooking the Nore. Set around a private courtyard, it has recently been refurbished, too.

(The Bridge, John Street, 056 772 3388; rivercourthotel.com)

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CLAUDINE O'SULLIVAN

HERITAGE Butler House was once the dower house of Kilkenny Castle.

Today, it’s a creeper-clad, Georgian guesthouse with seriously spacious rooms (ask for one with bow windows, overlooking the gardens). Breakfast is served in the nearby Kilkenny Design Centre, which means venturing outside, but you’ll be glad when you do. (16 Patrick Street, 056 772 2828; butler.ie)

At The Little Green Grocer (6 Parliament Street; 056 770 2007; thelittlegreengrocer.ie), sisters Eleanor and Sarah Duggan talk me through their passion for provenance and healthy organic foods – played out in neat shelves stacked with everything from Highbank Orchards apple juice to pesto from Joan & Bob’s Juicy Jams. “We wanted a place that we would shop in,” as Eleanor puts it. In another relatively new arrival, The Wardrobe (2 William Street; 056 771 5542; thewardrobekilkenny.ie), “pre-loved” designer clothes are sold with equally curated care.

“It’s an obsession,” says Gemma Fisher, whom I find taking snaps to send to a fashion blogger. She talks me through pieces ranging from a Prada cardigan with a handwritten price tag of €95, to a tailored, mohair Calvin Klein jacket with tasselled detail, silk lining and gorgeous stitching for €175. “We have local customers, but people also come from Dublin for the weekend and do a number of shops [including Marchioness Boutique and Luxe Room]. Once people come in and

Opposite, Smithwick’s central. Clockwise from top left, true blue at City Hall; forge of the ring at the Design Centre; Little Green Grocers Eleanor and Sarah Duggan; a Michelinstar setting at Campagne; Ian Hamilton, master brewer at Sullivan’s; fill the pie-hole at Cakeface.

browse and see the prices they get really excited.”

Kilkenny’s cosy size is perfect for stumble-upons like these (there’s no need for public transport; just park and walk). Follow your nose and you might end up on a river walk below the castle walls, or beginning a beautiful friendship at The Hole in the Wall, a Tudor-inner-house-turned-pub hidden away off the High Street (holeinthewall.ie). The city has a Michelin star restaurant in Campagne (5 The Arches; 056 777 2858; campagne.ie), plus evergreen foodie faves such as Zuni, Rinuccini and Foodworks (see ‘Eat at’ on page 60). Its compact layout also makes it ideal for festivals: Cat Laughs comedy (June 1-5; thecatlaughs.com), Kilkenny Arts Festival (August 11-20; kilkennyarts.ie), Savour Kilkenny (October 2630; savourkilkenny.com) and Kilkenomics (November 9-12; kilkenomics.com).

It’s at its best, I think, when present and past come together – in Castle Yard, for example, set among the castle’s former stables. Here, you’ll AERLINGUS.COM |

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DESTINATION | KILKENNY

PUB ROCK Yes, you’ll find trad sessions in John Cleere’s pub. But you’ll also find craft beers, Indonesian beef rendang and touring acts that punch way above their weight (signed posters from Alabama Shakes and Mick Flannery adorn its walls). cleeres.com

find the slick homewares of the Kilkenny Design Centre (056 772 2118; kilkennydesign.com), and also the National Craft Gallery (056 779 6147; nationalcraftgallery.ie), Blackbird art salon (087 784 3015; theblackbirdgallery.ie), and master craftsmen such as James Mary Kelly, whose team I find working at timeworn wooden benches next to a glowing stove in JMK Goldsmiths (056 772 2300; jmkgoldsmiths.com). Or Ray Power, who sits hand-crafting in his small studio at Castle Arch Pottery (056 775 1933; castlearchpottery.ie).

“Back when the workshops started up here, there was no sense of design in Ireland,” Ray tells me, his blue eyes echoing the aquatic colours of his bowls, vases and plates. “It was all Aran jumpers and that.”

How times have changed.

Clockwise from top left, a rosy sunset melts into the River Nore; Claire Molloy and Ray Power at the wheel at Castle Arch Pottery; John Cleere pub is a magnet for musos, and the cuisine at Foodworks is as much a treat for the eyes as for the mouth.

For more info to see and do in Kilkenny, see visitkilkenny. ie. You can also follow a “Made in Kilkenny” craft trail at madeinkilkenny.ie.

EAT AT …

THE CLASSIC You want fresh?

Foodworks draws many of its ingredients from a family farm (“The leaves were cut this morning,” I’m told). Pale blues, bistro browns and Art Deco light fittings combine to classy-yet-casual effect in Peter Greany and Maeve Moore’s restaurant, by now a flagship of Kilkenny dining. Dishes range from open sandwiches to roasted fish fillets, but it’s hard to look past the pork. (7 Parliament Street, 056 777 7696; foodworks.ie) FUSION Mashing-up a menu of Thai, Chinese and other street food treats in a pared-back, industrial-meets-Asian setting, Aroi is a perfect fit for Kilkenny’s casual food scene. Mains such as Tom

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Yam Goong or hot chilli prawns start from around €11, and gelato is €2 a scoop – all that’s missing are a few local craft beers to go with the Tigers and Cobras.

(Friary Street, 056 770 3644; aroi.eu) CAKEHOLE Scones will never seem the same again. Cakeface is a proper patisserie, with a deliciously decadent selection of treats drawing customers down the Medieval Mile. Crusty breads from Tramore’s Seagull Bakery, sumptuous sambos and artisan Irish coffee complete the picture. The future (for both the couple and Irishtown) is as bright as the glaze on their Tip Top Toffee. (16 Irishtown, 086 601 7045; cakefacepastry.com)

Eau La la!

Paris has always been a magnet for lovers, but it’s a draw for water babies too, with attractions ranging from the swimmingpool birthplace of the bikini, to getting steamy in a hammam.

WORDS FERGAL McCARTHY PHOTOGRAPHS CARINA OKULA

DESTINATION | PARIS

TV commercial is not what you would expect to ignite a lifelong love of the Seine and its quays – but a bad 1980s instant coffee ad did just that for me. Perfectly lit lovers tore themselves out of tousled sheets at an ungodly hour to walk the waterways and watch dawn break over the river. They finished up outside a riverside café on the Île SaintLouis for a demitasse of black sludge that I’m pretty sure was not made from a jar. My 13-yearold self thought this was perfect bucket list material and some years later I reenacted the ad’s premise with a yawning girlfriend convinced I was crazy (the relationship didn’t last).

Maybe if I had booked a hotel rather than a bunk bed in a hostel things would have worked out differently?

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ongoing fascination for Paris and its waterways. I have walked those banks many times since, often at dawn, but nowadays I hang a left on to the Canal Saint Martin towards Bastille and onwards for breakfast at Chez Prune (36 Rue Beaurepaire, +33 142 413 047).

I order a flat white in a failed attempt to blend in with “Les Bobos” – the Parisian equivalent of the hipster – and sit outside watching the canal tour boats (en.pariscanal.com) chugging past.

It’s a bit early to hit Hôtel du Nord (102 Quai de Jemmapes, +33 140 407 878; hoteldunord.org), my favourite bar on the opposite side of the canal, so instead I weave my way back towards the river through the Marais and stop en route for buckwheat galettes and other picnic supplies at Marché des Enfants Rouges, one of the city’s best markets, and one which has been going strong since 1615.

You know that you could only be in Paris when you descend the stairs of Colette (213 Rue Saint-Honoré, +33 155 353 390; colette.fr), a design store like no other, to find a subterranean water bar stocking 73 different brands of designer eau. I somehow manage to drag myself away without investing in a €50 bottle of Bling H2O – a steal given that it’s encrusted in Swarovski crystals – and settle for a €2 bottle of Volvic instead.

Halfway across Pont Neuf, the city’s oldest bridge,

Opposite, reflections on Saint Martin, near Chez Prune, and mosaic tiles at the Grande Mosquée de Paris. Clockwise from left, hotel OFF hits the sweet spot for breakfast; Adriano Sappracone bids us santé! with a demitasse at Hotel du Nord, and sunset picnics on the Quai de Bourbon à la Íle Saint-Louis.

I take the steps down to Square du VertGalant, which has to be the best place in Paris to unpack a picnic. This tiny sliver of park juts into the Seine at the furthest extremity of Île de la Cité, the island that also features Notre Dame and was apparently the first spot to be inhabited by the original settlers. They knew what they were doing: the view from my picnic bench takes in the whole length of the Louvre, the Pont des Arts (recently divested of more than a million love locks) and the imposing Musée de la Monnaie.

The Left Bank beckons. The last time I was in Paris I brought my young son to the Luxembourg Gardens, to hire vintage sailboats and prod them with a long stick around the Grand Bassin pond in the centre. This sounds great in theory but sadly there was no wind and he had to make do with the nearby playground instead.

An afternoon at the hammam in the nearby Grande Mosquée de Paris (2bis Place du Puits de l’Ermite, +33 145 359 733; restaurantauxportesdelorient.com) is about the best €38 you’ll spend in this city (and cheaper than a bottle of Bling H2O). The no-nonsense staff usher you into a series of mosaic-lined steam rooms equipped with silver bowls for pouring cold water over yourself once things get too hot. Somehow you find yourself in the queue for a gommage, an industrial-strength exfoliation treatment administered by another gruff staff member, and the session ends with a ten-minute massage followed by glasses of proper mint tea in the adjoining café.

Join AerClub today and start collecting rewards at aerlingus.com/aerclub

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DESTINATION | PARIS

The recent addition of a linear park to the quays stretching between the Musée d’Orsay and the Eiffel Tower manages to attract every age demographic with playgrounds, climbing walls, five floating gardens and even teepees that can be rented by the hour. Les Berges de Seine has numerous cafés and bars in shipping containers and, if you need to cool off after strolling the park’s 2.3 kilometres, cross the river at Pont d’Alma to the Trocadéro Gardens where you can splash in the fountains with the looming Eiffel Tower as your backdrop.

By now it’s time to jump on a metro to make for Molitor (13 Rue Nungesser et Coli, +33 156 070 850; mltr.fr), a new hotel that has been built around the city’s most famous outdoor swimming pool. This place has seen it all, from the launch of the bikini in 1946 to Johnny Weissmuller’s stint as the pool’s lifeguard before his reincarnation as Tarzan. The pool is heated to 28 degrees Celsius all year round and there’s even another indoor pool if you’re not a fan of fresh air. The problem with hotels like this is that you never really want to leave, even if a night cruise (vedettesdupontneuf.com) on the Seine awaits.

As our boat makes for Quai de la Tournelle opposite Île Saint-Louis my mind drifts back, this time not to a coffee ad but to Goldie Hawn dancing with Woody Allen at this very location in the final scene of his brilliant movie Everyone Says I Love You. Goldie’s ability to take flight (with the aid of airbrushed ropes) whenever Woody spins her around is the perfect metaphor for the effect Paris and its watery climes has on the human heart.

Clockwise from left, stroll the gardens at the Grande

Mosquée; for a few euros, kids can float a boat on the ponds at Jardin de Luxembourg; Androuet – for fromage fiends, on Rue Mouffetard; one of Alain Roussel’s legendary sambos at Marché des Enfants Rouges.

EAT AT …

ROOM WITH A VIEW A threeMichelin-star temple of excess, Restaurant Guy Savoy overlooks the Seine and Pont Neuf from its perch on the sixth floor of the building that originally housed the Paris Mint, which is rather appropriate given the amount of cash you’ll need to eat here.

(Monnaie de Paris, 11 Quai de Conti, +33 143 804 061; guysavoy.com)

BY THE TRUCKLOAD The food truck phenomenon has also hit Paris with a gaggle of trucks at Les Docks but my favourite is the quay-side Caravane Doree at the Batofar, which does the best rice noodle salad topped with crushed spring rolls. (11 Quai Francois Mauriac)

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MOVEABLE FEAST Rue Mouffetard in the 5th is exactly how you imagine a French street market, with chickens roasting in every window and no less than four cheese shops (try Androuet).

Ernest Hemingway lived in the north end and it’s a great place to pick up supplies for an evening picnic down the hill, anywhere along the Seine.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PARIS four times daily, and from Cork twice daily.

BELFAST SLIGO

DUBLIN GALWAY

LIMERICK

CORK

SLEEP AT SPLURGE Not many hotels can boast a rooftop pool, right, with views over the Eiffel Tower and designed by the architect of the Onassis yacht, but Le Bristol is one of the city’s finest five-star palace hotels.It also offers other unique attractions including two hotel cats, a scavenger hunt for kids and a courtyard garden. Rooms from €935.

(112 Rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré, +33 153 434 300; lebristolparis.com)

Bread a-go-go – bakery heaven at Chez Alain Miam Miam, above, at the Marché des Enfants Rouges. Below, a moment of Seine-ity: deckchair time at the Paris Plages, which runs every July and August.

SMART TIPS POOL HARDY If James Bond movie producers ever need a secret lair moored on the Seine under a giant retractable glass roof, they should call the Piscine Joséphine Baker – an extraordinary swimming pool. piscine-baker.fr LIFE AQUATIC The biggest urban water park in Europe, Aquaboulevard de Paris, boasts 11 giant slides, two wave pools and an outdoor beach dotted with straw huts imported from Mauritius . Only in Paris ... aquaboulevard.fr

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STAY AFLOAT The clever owners of OFF, the city’s first floating hotel, have created a truly innovative, one-off accommodation experience a stone’s throw from Gare d’Austerlitz, with 58 rooms overlooking the river. Its bar is bisected by a long, skinny pool for toe-dipping and they also do amazing cocktails.

Rooms from €160. (20-22 Port d’Austerlitz, +33 144 066 265; offparisseine.com)

RUB-A-DUB-DUB Take a look on Airbnb and you’ll find lots of boats offering accommodation right in the heart of the city including a luxurious houseboat moored a little outside, near the Bois de Boulogne, with its own hot-tub on deck for post sightseeing soaks. Rentals from €155. airbnb.ie

Handcrafted LUXUrY

Drumleck, Castlebellingham, Co. Louth (Exit 15 of M1, only 45mins from Dublin & Belfast) T: 042 937 2625 E: info@oconnorsofdrumleck.ie Showroom by appointment only

www.oconnorsofdrumleck.ie

You say, we say ...

10

BEST CITIES

for art lovers

Daragh Reddin puts the finest museums and galleries in the frame. or those on the kind of budget that necessitates having to think twice before entering a museum gift shop, the obscene sums involved in the buying and selling of art in the world’s top auction houses can seem bewildering. While few of us will ever be in a position to bid on a Picasso at Christie’s or air-kiss our way around the opening of the Venice Biennale, we are blessed to live in a

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world where so many priceless works of art are displayed in city museums and galleries that are either free to enter or involve modest admission fees.

So although you may never be in a position to hang an Ed Ruschka in your hallway or place one of Damien Hirst’s diamond skulls on your IKEA sideboard, a visit to some of the inspiring museums and galleries outlined below may well be within reach.

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PARIS Offering the greatest single collection of art on the planet, Paris’ Louvre (think vast art gallery meets royal palace) can be an overwhelming prospect. As such, it’s best to decide on your route in advance; if you take in little else aside from the Neoclassical and Romantic masterpieces of David, Géricault and Delacroix – with a pit stop at the Mona Lisa – consider your visit a triumph. Also a must, the Musée d’Orsay is a former train station turned glorious storehouse of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings (Manet, Degas and Gauguin). And for those who enjoy art on a more intimate scale, try the modestly proportioned Musée Rodin, left, and Musée de l’Orangerie, home to eight of Monet’s beguiling Water Lilies. Meanwhile, for politically-engaged street art, visit Belleville in northeastern Paris, where graffitied walls have transformed a once depressed neighbourhood into an al fresco canvas Banksy could be proud of.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris four times daily, and from Cork twice daily.

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SMART EDIT | LAKES

VIENNA Thanks to its pivotal role in moulding the talents of Haydn, Beethoven and Strauss, the Austrian capital has always been synonymous with classical music. But it was also home to the Art Nouveau pioneer Gustav Klimt, whose dazzling, gold-encrusted portrait The Kiss has become one of the most ubiquitous works ever created.

Incorrigible romantics should also take in the magnificent Belvedere, a Baroque palace and onetime summer residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy, which houses the world’s largest collection of Klimt paintings.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna daily.

AMSTERDAM Forget dubious coffeehouses and seedy nightlife, Amsterdam’s manifold cultural riches make it one of the most inspiring cities in Europe. The venerated Rijksmuseum, right, should be the first port of call: reopened in 2013 after a ten-year, multimillioneuro refurbishment, the Netherland’s national museum contains the most impressive collection of Dutch art in the world, with Rembrandt’s group portrait The Night Watch a blistering highlight. Also essential, the Van Gogh Museum brings together more than 200 of the troubled visionary’s greatest works, from the doleful peasant portraits of his early career to the majestic, pulse-quickening landscapes he created in his “yellow house” in Arles. If the nearby Stedelijk Museum, which features major pieces by Mondrian and Kandinsky, doesn’t sate your appetite for modern art, try the independent, envelope-pushing Galerie Fons Welters in the pretty bohemian enclave of Jordaan.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam four times daily, and Cork twice daily.

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Vienna has more than 100 other galleries to choose from, including the grand Kunsthistorisches Museum (Bruegel, Caravaggio, Vermeer), and the Leopold Museum in MuseumsQuartier, below, which offers a fine overview of Austrian art, not least the remarkable Expressionist Egon Schiele.

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FLORENCE With a moniker like “the cradle of the Renaissance”, it’s no surprise that Florence gives Rome and Venice a run for their money when it comes to sublime examples of Italian art and architecture. First-time visitors should begin with the Uffizi Gallery, which contains, among other treasures, Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and Caravaggio’s Medusa, while a bracing espresso from the gallery’s excellent café will revive art lovers who’ve fallen foul of long queues. For Renaissance

DAVID M. HEALD © THE SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily, from Dublin to Newark daily, and from Shannon to New York JFK daily.

ERIK SMITS

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Pisa three times per week from May 26.

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NEW YORK It’s fair to say that the Metropolitan Museum of Art holds a special place in the heart of all right-thinking visitors. This revered behemoth, on the eastern side of Central Park, contains artwork spanning 6,000 years, with galleries devoted to Greek, Roman, African and Byzantine art, so, pre-plot your trajectory, making a point to take in the rooms devoted to the European masters Vermeer and Picasso. The Whitney Museum, the city’s premier museum for modern and contemporary American art, has a glittering new-ish home in the Meatpacking District, where canvases by the likes of Edward Hopper and George Bellows draw fierce crowds. While Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim Museum, an iconic cylindrical structure, right, remains one of New York’s most recognisable landmarks, its permanent collection is eclipsed by that of the Museum of Modern Art in which works by Matisse, Warhol and Picasso all rub shoulders. And hit Brooklyn’s Bushwick neighbourhood, the borough’s contemporary art epicentre, where painfully-hip art collectives and pop-up galleries rule supreme.

sculpture, there’s the Bargello and Galleria dell’Accademia, where – naturally – Michelangelo’s David holds pride of place.

And if you fancy more serenity, Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, hosts sculptures from Florence’s tourist-thronged cathedral.

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SMART EDIT | ART CITIES

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TORONTO

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LOS ANGELES

Such is the appetite for homegrown art in London, Tate Britain recently announced that its new David Hockney retrospective (until May 29) was the fastest selling in the museum’s history. Visitors to that museum can also admire sublime examples of work by fellow British heavyweights Constable, Turner and Bacon. Tate Britain’s sister operation, Tate Modern, an imposing former power station, above, houses a permanent collection featuring greats from Matisse to Rothko, and recently enjoyed a £260 million extension. The Victoria and Albert Museum holds a glorious collection of decorative arts from around the globe and its superb gift shop will have even the most frugal visitors reaching for their credit cards.

LA boasts some of the greatest museums and galleries on Earth. The Getty Center is perched atop a hill over Brentwood and the views of the city alone make the trip worthwhile; inside, a sumptuous array of Titian, Rembrandt, Rubens and Van Gogh. Meanwhile visitors to the Los Angeles County Museum of Art could spend an entire week poring over its 100,000-strong collection. In a city whose arts scene is continually evolving, one recent venture has generated plenty of column inches. The Broad, above, is a blingy new gallery in downtown, which showcases an intoxicating collection of modern and contemporary art amassed by philanthropist Eli Broad.

Works by Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons and Roy Lichtenstein are just some of its illustrious residents.

Aer Lingus has 29 flights to London daily, from Dublin, Belfast, Cork and Shannon to Heathrow, and from Dublin and Knock to Gatwick.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles four times per week, increasing to daily from June to August.

LONDON

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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toronto five times weekly, increasing to daily from June.

IWAN BAAN

JANET KIMBER ©THE AGA KHAN MUSEUM

It’s no surprise that Toronto has an exciting, multifaceted arts scene that has grown and evolved alongside its diverse and cultured populace. The jewel in its crown is the Art Gallery of Ontario, extended in 2008 under the aegis of Toronto-born architect Frank Gehry, which gives equal weight to internationally feted Canadian artists and international stars such as Gerhard Richter and Richard Serra. Toronto’s historic Distillery District is flecked with welcoming independent galleries, but do not overlook one of the city’s more recent additions, the unassuming Aga Khan Museum, left, which celebrates the untold artistic achievements of the Muslim world.

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s destination for n i l ’ b u D

I n a heritage building a hop, skip and a jump from Grafton Street, Fallon & Byrne is a

true mecca for food lovers. Combining a beautiful setting with a magical ambience, it houses a romantic candlelit wine cellar, a world-class food hall & deli and a stunning, sun-dappled restaurant.

The restaurant at Fallon & Byrne is housed upstairs, where the light streams through tall windows into one of the city’s most handsome rooms. The season’s good stuff from land and sea is cooked with gentle respect for excellent ingredients. All served by cheerful sorts in a buzzy, relaxed atmosphere.

Lunch from 12 noon to 3pm daily • Dinner from 5.30pm daily t: +353 1 472 1000 • e: restaurant@fallonandbyrne.com

FOR FOOD LOVERS BY FOOD LOVERS FOOD HALL • RESTAURANT • WINE CELLAR • BALLROOM 11-17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 • www.fallonandbyrne.com •

FallonandByr ne

SMART EDIT | ART CITIES

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BERLIN So enamoured of the arts are the residents of Berlin that they have an entire island in the Spree River designated to it.

Museumsinsel, below, is home to such internationally-renowned institutions as the Pergamon, a vast treasure-trove of Islamic art and riches from the Ancient Near East, and the Neues Museum, with its impossibly precious

collection of Egyptian and prehistoric artefacts.

Few cities in Europe can match Berlin when it comes to the sheer quality and number of its contemporary art spaces but the Berlinische Galerie in Kreuzberg is a good place to start. This renovated glass warehouse boasts a superlative permanent collection of German

art from 1870 and also offers an engaging, ever-changing roster of temporary shows.

Although Kreuzberg has long been considered the focal point of Berlin’s post-unification arts ventures, the economically depressed enclave of Wedding has recently been recognised for its unique contribution to the city’s dynamic street art scene.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin twice daily.

MADRID One painter still reigns supreme in the Spanish capital some 350 years after his death: Diego Velázquez. His endlessly enigmatic Las Meninas is perhaps the most sought out painting in the must-visit Museo del Prado, which also includes, among 7,000 artworks, masterpieces

by El Greco and Goya. The nearby Reina Sofia, Spain’s national museum of 20th-century art, is equally worthwhile, with visitors invariably flocking to the monumental Guernica, Picasso’s response to the devastating 1937 airstrike on the eponymous Basque village.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Madrid 11 times per week

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10

OVER TO YOU

Next issue we share your FAVOURITE ISLANDS at Aer Lingus destinations. Have your say @CARAMagazine, using the hashtag #CaraYSWS.

An exciting new restaurant in the heart of Dublin City. A new food experience by Dylan McGrath to explore the idea of flavour, tastes and in the room cooking, while being influenced by Japan, Spain and South America.

“I love the flavour release of some of these cooking techniques. I find something special in the use of their immediate, quick heat and I hope you do too”.

- Dylan McGrath

W

e are committed to bringing to the plate all that is great from the best of Irish produce, at a time when its is important to support the value, the effort and commitment of our Irish producers and farmers. These people are an inspiration to us; through their passion they are continuously evolving with a determination to be proud of what we do on this rapidly developing food island”.

- Dylan McGrath

Taste at Rustic 17 South Great George’s St. Dublin 2, Ireland.

Tel: +353 (01) 526 7701

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com

tasteatrustic.com

“At Rustic Stone our philosophy is simple. We source the best seasonal ingredients, then we apply simple techniques to extract the most flavour, while giving you the information you need to add nutrition and structure to your diet. The produce I’ve chosen and our demand for freshness, is the cornerstone of our Rustic idea, while providing a healthy but affordable eating approach.”

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com

- Dylan McGrath 17 South Great Georges Street T: 01 707 9596 rusticstone.ie

Blue lagoon ... Three Sisters Springs, King’s Bay, so named because of the three underground springs that feed this natural inlet on the Crystal River.

Feral FLORIDA

America’s Sunshine State isn’t just about theme parks and Miami scenesters. The Everglades is where the wild things really are.

WORDS CONOR POWER PHOTOGRAPHS MATT MARRIOTT

DESTINATION | FLORIDA

rom our hotel room, my wife and I had already noticed some of the resident wildlife: a flock of pelicans flying past, skirting low along the shoreline that morning – an exotic and beautiful sight. Down by the shore in the evening, we found the sea teeming with life: fish regularly flipped out of the water and dolphins patrolled the shallows.

This is Marco Island, on Florida’s “Paradise Coast” in the south-west corner of the Sunshine State. With a sandy shore facing west across the

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Gulf of Mexico, it’s on the edge of the wonderful wilderness that is the Everglades National Park: over 1.5 million acres of swamp and broken coastline and home to species including red panthers, wild boars, crocodiles and alligators.

Our first venture past this great frontier is a Waverunner tour of the “Ten Thousand Islands” with Marco Island Ski and Watersports (400 South Collier Boulevard, +1 239 642 2359; marcoislandwatersports.com) – a huge scattering of islands and islets formed of mangrove trees which are part of the Everglades National Park. We’re in a group of ten people – mostly first-time visitors to Florida

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to ORLANDO four times per week, and from Dublin to MIAMI three times per week from September 1.

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At home with perfection.

Created through the perfect marriage of form and function.

Realm Concepts Ltd. The Waterfront, Hanover Quay, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 480 44 00, hello@realm.ie www.bulthaup-hanoverquay.ie Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram @bulthaupHQ

DESTINATION | FLORIDA

SLEEP AT …

CITY SLICKER You won’t get a better downtown location than the riverside Aloft Tampa Downtown hotel, a former bank where drug money was shamelessly laundered.

Its renewal is a symbol of a re-energised Tampa.

Plus, the swimming pool, right, offers views across the Hillsborough River to the stunning University of Tampa. Rooms from $283. (100 West Kennedy Boulevard, +1 813 898 8000; alofttampadowntown.com) GRAND Beachfront hotels on Marco Island are few and far between, making the JW Marriott Marco Island Beach Resort a real treat that impresses from the first time you set foot in its massive lobby. Americansized brunch, large well-appointed rooms with super views of the sunset and cocktails by the shore – what’s not to like? Rooms

from $273. (400 South Collier Boulevard, +1 239 394 2511; marriott.com) SERENE Set on 230 acres, The Plantation on Crystal River offers excellent accommodation standards with smart service, an outdoor pool, golf course and swathes of river frontage giving access to Kings Bay – winter home to over 400 migrating manatees.

Snorkelling tours depart from the hotel. Rooms from $111. (9301 West Fort Island Trail, +1 352 795 4211; plantationoncrystalriver.com)

Clockwise from top left, watching the Hillsborough river from the Tampa Aloft Downtown hotel; a cool pool at the JW Marriott Marco Island Beach Resort; pan-seared scallops at Ario at the Marriott; balmy sundowners at Ulele; bar stars, also at Ario.

EAT AT ...

DINER Located opposite the entrance to the Everglades National Park, The Oyster House feels like a satisfyingly American institution, complete with creaky door and brilliant bric-a-brac. This is no slapdash diner, though, but a decent-quality family-run establishment with friendly service and a smart menu in praise of local seafood.

(901 South Copeland Avenue, Everglades City, +1 239 695 2073; oysterhouserestaurant.com) SUNDOWNERS With directions for arriving both by car and by boat, you get an idea of the special location of CJ’s on the Bay. The covered outdoor seating area and spicy seafood choices lend a certain

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fiesta-like ambience. The menu is mid-range in cost and the sunsets are priceless.

(740 North Collier Boulevard, Marco Island, +1 239 389 4511; cjsonthebay.com) HIP Housed in a red-bricked building that used to be a dingy waterworks site, Ulele is one of Tampa’s trendiest nightspots. With a menu staying as local as possible and an on-site brewery offering delicious beer, it’s an experience that’s both theatrical and intimate.

(1810 North Highland Avenue, +1 813 999 4952; ulele.com)

*BASED ON RETURN FLIGHTS IN OFF-PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

Right, Wooten Tours’ Marco Ramirez navigates the wild waters of the Everglades. Bottom right, the elegance of a red-headed Sandhill Crane, and, below, see ya later ... an American alligator breaks the surface tension.

like ourselves. As we zoom across the water at thrilling speed, the skies are already filling with hundreds of large black birds.

“Buzzards,” our clear-speaking, well-groomed guide Charles informs us at our first stop. “You’re gonna see a lot of them today.” We all beam with delight as he explains how these mangrove islands are an ever-evolving phenomenon featuring beaches of sand and shell-crush that form, disappear and re-form elsewhere; how we’d come across dolphins and possibly manatees.

We meander slowly through the mangroves to another bay. Here, we encounter a school of dolphins with their young. They begin interacting with us, effortlessly swimming right alongside the Waverunner, taking time to peek up and see what the latest visitors look like.

Just north of here, you’re in the heart of the Everglades as we know it. It’s a 40-minute drive from Marco Island to our next destination – Wooten’s Airboat Tours (32330 Tamiami Trail East, Ochopee, +1 239 695 2781;

wootenseverglades.com). Even as we drive along Route 41 through the swamp that stretches into the horizon on all sides, alligators are clearly visible in the ditches next to the highway.

There’s something about alligators that elicits respect mixed with cold-blooded fear. They don’t answer to anybody, their species has probably been around for longer than any other, and they know it. Close to the airboat ticket office, signs warn people not to stray beyond certain points where alligators choose to cross.

Our airboat captain Robbie duly arrives. He’s a real live-large Southerner, wearing shorts, T-shirt, baseball cap and sunglasses. Along with some German tourists, we climb aboard the airboat, don the ear-muffs (airboats are really loud) and off we blast across the swamp.

“I grew up about a mile from here,” Robbie tells us during a pause in our tour, and his native knowledge shows for the duration. The boat is drifting slightly and we’re right beside a large alligator, who’s doing

Fly to Orlando this summer for 32,500 Avios points – and tier members can earn up to 75 per cent extra Avios points on flights to Miami.

Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly where you want to go, you can use what you have and pay the rest in cash*. See aerlingus. com/aerclub for more details.

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DESTINATION | FLORIDA Clockwise from left, sea cow central in Crystal River; panther power in Big Cypress National Preserve; one of many chickens that cross the roads of Ybor City; tickets please on the Amtrak train to Tampa.

SMART TIPS PROHIBITION THRILLS Time-travel back to the 1920s at Ciro’s Speakeasy and Supper Club in South Tampa.

At the discreet entrance, knock on the door and say the password to gain entry. (2109 Bayshore Boulevard, +1 813 251 0022; cirostampa.com) ART DECO MIAMI Explore the city’s decadently decorative architecture from the Art Deco Welcome Center, via a guided tour or audio guide. (1001 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach, +1 305 672 2014 ; mdpl.org) THEME PARKS Universal Orlando Resort’s new water park Volcano Bay opens this May, complete with 61-metre high volcano “Krakatau”.

(600 0 Universal Boulevard, Orlando, +1 407 363 800 0; universalorlando.com)

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as his type do, which according to Robbie, is “to sit there and wait all day until something comes along that he’s gonna wanna eat.”

Just before we take off again, we see a particularly large bird of prey swoop overhead. It’s a bald eagle but it’s already gone before I can take my smartphone out to take a photo.

Birds of a different kind are to be seen in their own domain in Ybor City, 250 kilometres north of Marco Island. This historic red-bricked enclave of Tampa was once the cigar capital of the world. A local by-law allows fowl to roam the 19th-century grid-patterned streets of Ybor City unharmed. It’s an urban area where the chicken crosses the road completely unhindered by not so much as a punchline.

And then 130 kilometres north lies Crystal River. It is so called because their natural clear-water warm springs attract manatees to spend the winter months. They arrive here in great numbers when the waters of the Gulf of Mexico become slightly cooler.

We set out to see the famous “sea cows” up close on a cool misty

morning just as the sun begins to rise. Before heading out in the boat (Plantation Adventure Center, 9301 West Fort Island Trail, Crystal River, +1 352 795 4211; plantationoncrystalriver.com), we’re all shown a video explaining the strict conditions under which everyone has to operate so as not to disturb the manatees in their natural habitat.

When we finally do get into the water and see one of them up close, we’re smiling from ear to ear (insofar as one can with a snorkel in one’s mouth) as we watch him use his stubby front “hands” to shovel food from the river bed into his mouth, completely oblivious to the excitement he’s causing all around him.

On the way back home on the plane, I ask my wife what she thought of the Sunshine State. “Florida,” she says, “is wild!” I couldn’t have put it better myself.

Available to buy from:

· Dublin Bus Travel information Desk (T1 Arrivals) · Spar shop (T2 Arrivals) · Discover Ireland Tourist Information Desk (T2 Arrivals)

The Leap Visitor Card can be used on: Airlink 747/757 airport bus services, all Dublin Bus scheduled services, all Luas (tram) services and DART and Commuter Rail in the Short Hop Zone.

DESTINATION | VENICE

Canal life, Blauwburgwal, in Centrum.

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Venetian

n o s Sea

This year marks the 57th La Biennale di Venezia, a six-month art event against one of the world’s most extraordinary backdrops.

PHOTOGRAPHS AILBHE O'DONNELL

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DESTINATION | VENICE

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2 3

1 Earthly neon – a light installation in the Peggy Guggenheim Collection’s Nasher Sculpture Garden translates as “disappear”; no mean feat in Venice, where the authorities are considering a cap on tourist numbers (giant cruise ships, specifically) to help preserve the lagoon. guggenheim-venice.it 2 Cape escape – like any self-respecting Italian city, Venice has its fair share of homegrown, high-end boutiques, such as Gucci, here in the San Marco district.

3 Dome patrol – the Santa Maria della Salute, situated where the Grand Canal meets the Giudecca Canal, was constructed in tribute to the Virgin Mary.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to VEN ICE four times per week.

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Over 70 million people around the world claim direct descent from Irish emigrants who left our shores and set out to distant lands on epic journeys. At EPIC in Dublin’s Docklands you can take an interactive journey of discovery to find out why they left, see how they influenced the world they found, and experience the connection between their descendants and Ireland today.

Open daily 10am - 5pm.

Visit www.epicchq.com or call +353 (0)1 906 0861 to book your tickets.

DESTINATION | VENICE

SMART TIPS LOOK, SEE International art lovers are set to flock to Venice this May 13 to November 26, for the 57th La Biennale, which comprises 85 global exhibition spaces, or “pavilions”, at La Giardini and Arsenale. labiennale.org

FRIG HT NIG HTS Wander off the beaten track, if you dare, on a Venice Ghost Walking Tour.

Over 90 guided minutes, learn about the city’s haunted history.

From €25, including hotel pick up/drop off; book at viator.com.

RETAIL DETAIL If you find yourself in San Polo, self gift at Ohmyblue, a pristine-white gallery space showcasing cuttingedge contemporar y jewellery, accessories and homewares. ohmyblue.com

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*EXCLUDING TAXES, CHARGES AND ANCILLARIES.

4 Timeless wonder – much of Venice appears unchanged after centuries.

5 Venetian tapas, you say?

The nibbles at Cantine del Vino già Schiavi, in Dorsoduro, are sensational. cantinaschiavi.com 6 More art spotting at The Peggy Guggenheim Collection, which is housed in the former home of one of the world’s wealthiest women, the beyond-extravagant Marchesa Luisa Casati (1881-1957) – who died a pauper in London.

7 Bridging the gap in the Campo de Gheto Novo, or “New Ghetto”.

8 Shuttered windows look out on to labyrinthine streets and canals. There are no roads in Venice, only waterways, alleyways and bridges winding and zig-zagging their way through the city’s 100 or so islands that play host to more day-trippers than overnight visitors or residents.

Collect three Avios points for every €1 you spend, every time you fly with Aer Lingus and our partner airlines.*

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DESTINATION | VENICE

9 Due reflection – Italo-Byzantine splendour, in the shapely form of St Mark’s Basilica, which was completed in 1092 after a nearly 100-year-long build.

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BIJOU The pair behind the fivebedroom CimaRosa Boutique Hotel take pride in both Venice and their hotel, and work hard to showcase this.

Rooms, top right, are decorated with soft colours that capture the beauty of its enviable, canal-side location, combining furnishings from the past and present for a sophisticated, timeless setting. Rooms from €530, minimum two nights. (Santa Croce, 1958, +39 333 354 8525; cimarosavenezia.com) VENERABLE Dating back to the 15th century, The Gritti Palace, below right, was previously used as the residence for Vatican ambassadors to Venice, and is a picture of elegance and luxury, right. If the eye-catching views over the

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Grand Canal aren’t pleasurable enough, take to the hotel’s Acqua di Parma spa for some extra R&R. Located on a small square, Gritti really is a sanctuary from the Venetian bustle. Rooms from €650.

(Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, +39 041 794 611; thegrittipalace.com) SLEEK With a modern, minimalist design, DD724 embodies the artsy vibe of its Dorsoduro location. Situated near some of Venice’s finest galleries, it’s a prime location for anyone visiting the Biennale. Between this and its neighbouring sister property, DD694, this Charming House duo offers nine suites guaranteeing a peaceful rest.

Rooms from €315. (Dorsoduro 724, +39 041 277 0262; thecharminghouse.com)

A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012

J

ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

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ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for €5 each way.

Hooley Nights

For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person.

• • • •

AWARDWINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES

Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: info@jfp.ie

www.jfp.ie

www.facebook.com/Johnniefoxspub

SEAFOOD IS OUR SPECIALITY AWARDWINNING A LA CARTE MENU

restaurant At rachel’s, my vision is to serve simple, naturally produced and delicious tasting food from the local Cork area.

Our vegetables, fruit and herbs are picked and delivered every morning from our organic farm at Ballymaloe Cookery School. Our fish is landed daily from the waters of Ballycotton, our pork is reared by Darren Allen on his farm in Shanagarry, our chickens are reared by Robert Fitzsimmons in East Ferry on his free range pastures and we have a hand full of local farmers providing high quality beef and lamb from in the East Cork area.

I look forward to welcoming you soon.

restaurant 28, Washington Street, Cork 021 241 4583

dine@rachels.ie

www.rachels.ie

t s e b 5Train Trips Lucy White steps aboard the golden age of rail travel.

LONDON-BERLIN

VENICE SIMPLONORIENTEXPRESS “Kings and crooks, millionaires and refugees, big-game hunters and smugglers, prima donnas and courtesans travelled on it; tycoons and financiers clinched their deals across its sumptuous dining tables; diplomats, spies, and revolutionaries on board the train moved secretively to their moments of history.” So wrote EH Cookridge in 1978’s Orient Express: The Life and Times of the World’s Most Famous Train. These days you’ll more likely encounter honeymooners and milestone wedding anniversaries on board the immaculately restored Pullman carriages that date back to the 1920s and 1930s – and chances are there will be new patrons following the November release of Kenneth Branagh’s Murder on the Orient Express reboot, starring himself as Hercule Poirot. This June, though, the historic, most luxurious of trains will launch its annual trip from London to Berlin via Paris.

CABIN FEVER Private cabins are small but perfectly formed (there’s one loo for every carriage) and each has its own steward. During dinner service, it’s transformed into a cosy, luxurious sleeper – no bunk beds here.

TICKETS, PLEASE An overnight journey from London to Berlin starts from £4,258, based on two adults sharing a deluxe twin cabin, and includes breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. belmond.com

Aer Lingus flies from Ireland to London 29 times per day.

CABIN FEVER There are different options, depending on how far west you want to go, but if it’s the whole hog, book a two-bunk roomette or, for extra space, a bedroom or family suite. Alternatively, plan stop-offs en route to get a real taste of billboard-free, neon-lite Americana.

CHICAGO-SAN FRANCISCO

CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR Five-star luxury it ain’t, but the California Zephyr still achieves trip-of-a-lifetime status for its epic, east-to-west vastness. Depart from Chicago, and 51 hours and 20 minutes, 4,000 kilometres, three time zones and seven states later, you arrive in San Francisco. Wallflowers need not apply, since there are communal tables in the dining cart – and you can’t help but eavesdrop in the two-storey

observation car. But dust off that novel and those board games, sign out of social media on the (patchy) Wi-Fi and surrender to the art of actual socialising with your fellow travellers. The cherry on top though is the genuinely awe-inspiring scenery, which includes the Rockies, and Nebraskan and Denver plains, with the Denver to Sacramento leg being a rousing finale.

TICKETS, PLEASE A coachclass seat costs $145 – and literally just includes the chair you’re sat on. For the less hardy, roomettes costs $500-900 and bedroom/ family suites $900-1,300, including meals. amtrak.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Chicago twice daily, and from San Francisco to Dublin daily.

VENICE-BUDAPEST

GOLDEN EAGLE DANUBE EXPRESS If a soundtrack were to be created for this “Treasures of Eastern Europe” trip, it would surely include di Capua’s O sole mio (Venice), Johann Strauss’s The Blue Danube (Budapest, Prague) via Ultravox’s Vienna. Over 14 days, passengers can experience Italy, the Czech Republic, Germany, Poland, Austria and Hungary in unadulterated, yet surprisingly informal, luxury – there’s no dress code for dinner, or at any time for that matter. The Golden Eagle is essentially a vintage-style “hotel on wheels”, whose interiors and fine-dining options are almost as classy as the majestic cities and landscapes that roll by.

CABIN FEVER Launching this year are Superior Deluxe Cabins, which are fitted with king-size beds, en suite bathrooms and ample storage.

There are also private Deluxe and Heritage cabins.

TICKETS, PLEASE It’s time to start doing the Lotto, folks.

This 14-day odyssey costs from €10,995 per person, including twin cabins, hotels, meals, excursions and a drinks allowance. danubeexpress.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Venice and Budapest four times per week.

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TICKETS, PLEASE A two-night jaunt on the “Taste of Ireland” itinerary – which links Dublin, Belfast and Waterford – starts at £2,986 per person, based on two adults sharing, including all meals, drinks and excursions. Longer trips available. belmond.com

IRELAND

BELMOND GRAND HIBERNIAN Ireland’s rail network isn’t noted for its sophistication, however, it did get a considerable upgrade last year when its first luxury train, the Belmond Grand Hibernian, was introduced. With one eye firmly on affluent Americans looking to explore their ancestry in style, the BGH offers two-, four- and six-night itineraries that typically take in Dublin, Cork, Galway, Westport and Belfast. Impeccably mannered staff – clothed in Donegal tweed – are as well dressed as its carriages, whose art collection is curated by Northern Ireland’s Katie Kennedy Perez and includes photography by Dorothy Cross and paintings by Mick O’Dea. Its culinary offering is no less considered, with Alan Woods – formerly of Thornton’s in Dublin – commanding the kitchen.

CABIN FEVER Hunker down in one of the 20 tastefully decorated, en suite sleeper cabins, four of which are doubles. All have showers and there are four interconnecting suites for groups.

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SMART EDIT | TRAIN JOURNEYS

SAN FRANCISCO–NAPA

WINE TRAIN Drinking mini Merlots on the train from Galway to Dublin will never be the same again after this trip.

On California’s Wine Train, guests (in reserved seating) can enjoy panoramic views of the Napa Valley from the domed, top deck of a two-storey 1952 Pullman car, Cab Sav in one hand, smug selfie opportunity in the other. Its other two dining carriages, meanwhile, date back to the 1920s, making this a very special vantage point for some seriously impressive scenery. Napa Valley boasts more than 400 wineries, so the only dilemma on this train trip is not when the tea trolley is coming out but which vineyard(s) to visit along the way ...

CABIN FEVER This is not a sleeper train, however, if you want to make a weekend out of it (and who wouldn’t?), the Wine Train has a package jauntily called “I Left my Car in San Francisco”, which includes an overnight stay at Napa River Inn at the historic Napa River Mill in Downtown.

TICKETS, PLEASE The “I Left my Car in San Francisco” package costs $557 B&B for two and includes a gourmet lunch on the Wine Train and two Wine Tasting Cards for vino appreciation opportunities Downtown. winetrain.com

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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.

BRAND NEW

ALBUM

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DESTINATION | TORONTO

48 HOURS IN

Toronto

Joe Callaghan dives deep into Canada’s diverse and dazzling melting pot to soak up all that the city they call The Six has to offer.

Eat at ...

CANADIANA Nestled on the edge of Little Italy, the oh-so-charming Woodlot serves Canadian comfort food that’ll leave you contemplating moving here permanently. The cavernous wood-burning oven produces mouthwatering creations, with a heavy emphasis on local, seasonal and homely.

Pork dishes shouldn’t be missed and there’s always inspiration in the veggie options. (293 Palmerston Avenue, +1 647 342 6307; woodlottoronto.com)

ASIAN The most diverse city on the planet, Toronto particularly excels at Asian fusion, with Lee in King West atop of the pile. Its glowing bar draws you inside to sleek surrounds and a steady din. Superstar TV chef Susur Lee’s ethos here is sharing, so order freely from the inspired menu but don’t skip the trademark Singapore slaw – and be sure to leave room for tonguetingling desserts. (601 King Street W, +1 416 504 7867; susur.com)

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Clockwise from top, Bellwoods Brewery is a must-visit for any self-respecting beer lover visiting Toronto; likewise, the historic Distillery District hops with bars and restaurants; the wood-burning oven at Woodlot produces excellent Canadian cuisine.

Drink at ...

HIDEAWAY Can a secret bar still be a secret if it’s the city’s hottest spot?

The Cloak is a speakeasy, hidden underneath Marben restaurant in downtown that nods back to Prohibition times, in style and substance. There, immerse yourself in a cocktail menu that traverses the world for inspiration. (488 Wellington Street W, +1 416 710 7697) INDUSTRIAL A designated National Historic Site, the Distillery District once churned out two million gallons of whiskey a year before falling derelict.

Now repurposed and revamped, it’s an Instagram-tastic industrial complex that houses galleries, eateries and, in keeping with its history, bars. Our favourite is El Catrin, a kaleidoscopic Mexican madhouse that serves up terrific tequila-centric concoctions.

(Mill Street & Trinity Street, +1 416 203 2121; thedistillerydistrict.com)

RICK O’BRIEN

GASTRO Barely a year in existence, French-inspired Alo has taken Canada’s culinary landscape by storm. Three floors above a busy west downtown intersection, magic happens nightly as chef Patrick Kriss creates a fivecourse tasting menu that will electrify your palate. The stuffy edges of fine dining are stripped away in a relaxed atmosphere, where all the attention is on the plates. (163 Spadina Avenue, +1 416 260 2222; alorestaurant.com)

BREWERY Toronto’s craft beer scene is hopping, and Bellwoods Brewery might be the pick of the bunch. Nestled in a converted garage on lively Ossington Avenue, they serve up sours, porters and pale ales that pack a punch. If weather permits, grab bottles to go and head across Queen Street to charming Trinity Bellwoods Park, from which it takes its name. (124 Ossington Avenue, +1 416 535 4586; bellwoodsbrewery.com)

Don't miss ...

CELEBRATION Pack a party outfit because Canada is celebrating its 150th birthday in 2017. TO Canada with Love is Toronto’s year-long festival of events to toast the occasion and it’s stacked with everything from free concerts, open-air galleries and live urban exhibitions.

Photography and film are to the fore in late spring but there really is something for everyone. toronto.ca VIEWS As the city emerges from hibernation, Toronto’s Islands start buzzing. Hop on a ferry for the superquick crossing to the largest car-free urban environment in North America.

The picturesque parklands are easily traversed by bike with beach and cosy café stops along the way. Make sure you’ve found the perfect vantage point for sunset over the city’s skyline. torontoisland.com ACTIVE Exercise and beer, together at last! Join the fun and friendly running group, RunTOBeer, to see another side of the city, ie from its sidewalks to boozers. Their weekly routes, ranging from three kilometres to ten, always finish at a city brewery for a cold beer afterwards – and a warm welcome for newcomers. runtobeer.ca

Clockwise from top, rooms at the Drake hotel are suitably hip; Toronto’s grand dame, the Fairmont Royal York, harks back to the early 1900s; the Thompson’s infinity pool is nothing short of spectacular; and artistic delectations at Alo restaurant.

Sleep at ...

HISTORIC Once the tallest building in the British Empire, the Fairmont Royal York is a throwback to the golden age of rail, one of a series of chateau-style hotels built by Canadian Pacific Railway in the early 1900s. In central downtown, it has all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a place that has welcomed dignitaries for almost a century. At the decadent brunch buffet make sure to sample the honey, harvested from rooftop beehives on site. Double rooms from €175. (100 Front Street, +1 416 368 2511; fairmont.com) ARTISTIC The achingly cool Drake hotel has become something of an institution. No two rooms are the same and no detail is left unattended amid the swirl of cosy and contemporary brick and brass. But you don’t come here just to sleep: food and drink options abound (the rooftop taco shack is divine). Double rooms from €160.

(1150 Queen Street W, +1 416 531 5042; thedrakehotel.ca)

LUXE Even the quickest glance out of your floor-to-ceiling windows at the super boutique Thompson is enough to see that King West is Toronto’s style centre. Its star attraction, though, is the rooftop infinity pool where the soaring 360-degree views of the city and Lake Ontario are best taken in with a cocktail. At night, throw some shapes in Wildflower, the sexy-cool basement nightclub. Double rooms from €185.

(550 Wellington Street W, +1 416 640 7778; thompsonhotels.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to TORONTO five times per week, increasing to daily from June.

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Continuing to deliver construction solutions Building in Ireland for 60 years; it’s in our DNA

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FDI Hi-tech Facilities Biopharma HQ buildings Pharmaceutical Cleanrooms Agri-Dairy-Food Refurb & Fit-out Mechanical & electrical Healthcare Infrastructure PPP Investment

Contact: Mike Jones 087 6297738

www.bamireland.ie

ON BUSINESS

Pulling Power Daniel Ford finds Stuttgart to be a hotbed of commercial activity for the seasoned business traveller.

Making travel work for you

Business

DAIMLER AG

Downtime at ...

tuttgart is known as the cradle of the automotive industry, with Daimler AG, Porsche, coach makers Neoplan and other specialists headquartered here. But apart from vehicles, this is also one of Europe’s hi-tech centres, with Bosch, HewlettPackard and IBM all significant business players in the city, along with numerous smaller companies. Stuttgart, which sits in the heart of Germany’s Swabia region, also has booming financial services, beer and wine industries (the city is surrounded by vineyards).

With business trips making up 70 per cent of visitors (from January to November 2016 there were 3.4 million overnight city stays and 7.9 million for the region), it’s not surprising the city is geared up for them with hotels, conference and trade facilities.

But Stuttgart is also a very attractive place and consistently features in the top 30 of the various “most liveable cities” indexes.

It’s not surprising. Stuttgart is centrally located, and close to both the skiing of Switzerland and Austria and the Mediterranean coasts of France and Italy. It has architecturally pleasing buildings – many rebuilt after the Second World War – such as the New Palace, Opera House and Old Castle, but has also comfortably incorporated modern architecture, such as the Mercedes-Benz Museum and New State Gallery, into its cityscape. And while Schlossplatz and Schillerplatz are great examples of well-designed open public areas there are also many alleyways and back streets to explore.

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VIEWS High up on Württemburg Hill you can look down on the vineyards of Neckar Valley and enjoy far-reaching views across the city. The hill is the site of a mausoleum, built by King Wilhelm I of Württemberg to commemorate his wife Katharina Pavlona of Russia, who died in 1819. Soak it all up with a glass of local wine from the stall near the top.

(Württemburgstrasse, +49 711 337 149; grabkapelle-rotenberg.de)

PHOTOGTRAPHS COURTESY OF STUTTGART MARKETING GMBH

ZIPPY Forget the usual ways to see a city and zip around on a Segway tour instead. Learn more about Stuttgart while having fun at the same time – and no need to worry about walking up those hills either. Tours are held in the day and in the early evening. Advance

booking, driving licence and passport are required. (Meet at Rotebühlplatz/ Stadtmitte underground stop, +49 711 664 866 57; seg-tour-stuttgart.com) HISTORICAL Motor fans can overdose in Stuttgart, as the museums of both Mercedes-Benz and Porsche are located here, with the former the most visited museum in the city.

There is plenty to interest visitors, with numerous old and rare vehicles from both companies displayed in modern, architecturally impressive museum buildings. (Mercedes-Benz: Mercedesstrasse 100, +49 711 173 0000; benz.me/tickets. Porsche: Porscheplatz 1, +49 711 911 209 11; porsche.com/museum)

Eat at …

MODERN Panoramic views of Schlossplatz and the city are on offer at the Cube restaurant, thanks to its walls of glass shaped in, not surprisingly, a cube. Spacious, with clean and unfussy interior design, it also offers artful dishes, above. And for seeing and being seen there is a large, informal terrace area. (Kleiner Schlossplatz 1, +49 711 280 44 41; cube-restaurant.de)

IN BLOOM Stuttgart’s Spring Festival, or Frühlingsfest – think of it as an early Oktoberfest – runs from April 15 to May 7. Head to Cannstatter Wasen for stalls, rides, music, beer, lederhosen and dirndl dresses. (+49 711 955 433 00; stuttgarterfruehlingsfest.de)

Clockwise from far left, the hugely popular Mercedes-Benz Museum; the Württemberg mausoleum atop Württemberg Hill; fountain finery at the New Palace, and sun spots at the Staatsgalerie.

CLASSIC Spätzle (soft egg noodles with onions and cheese) and kartoffelknödel (potato dumplings) are just two of the local favourites you will find at Weinstube Kachelofen, a down-to-earth, friendly restaurant.

Wash your meal down with a cold beer such as Stuttgart’s very own Dinkelacker, then take a stroll through the many interesting side streets that come alive after dark.

(Eberhardstrasse 10, +49 711 242 378; weinstubekachelofen.de) CHILLED The 500-seater Ratskeller, a Stuttgart institution near the town hall, had to close last year due to tighter fire regulations. But its spirit lives on upstairs, with owners from the same family running the smaller Stadtbesen, a chilled place to enjoy cheese, sausages and antipasti with an excellent selection of local wines.

(Marketplace 1, +49 711 239 78 24; stadtbesen.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to STUTTGART up to four times per week.

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Business

Stay at ...

CHARMING If you are looking for somewhere to stay that is not part of a large chain, Waldhotel Stuttgart is a charming hotel, right, on the edge of the forest and close to the landmark TV Tower. After work you can enjoy tennis, a spa and sauna, a gym, or just go for a run in the forest. Rooms from €102. (Guts-Muths-Weg 18, +49 711 185 720; waldhotel-stuttgart.de) MODERN If you need to be close to the airport and the trade fairs then the Mövenpick Hotel Stuttgart Airport & Messe is for you. This modern hotel has meeting rooms, various-sized venue rooms and a wellness centre with gym, sauna and Roman steam bath for downtime.

Rooms from €98. (Flughafenstrasse 50, +49 711 553 440; movenpick.com)

STYLISH City centre hotel Steigenburger Graf Zeppelin is close to the main railway station, Schlossplatz and the main shopping street Königstrasse. This stylish hotel offers a wellness centre with swimming pool, steam bath, sauna and spa treatments. Or for relaxation of a different kind there is a choice of restaurants, a bar and a whiskey and cigar lounge, above and right. Rooms from €143.65.

(Arnulf-Klett-Platz 7, +49 711 204 80; steigenberger.com)

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DEVELOPED BY

1 GEORGE’S QUAY, DUBLIN 2

LANDMARK WATERFRONT OFFICE HQ AVAILABLE TO LET 133,487 SQ FT

C O M P L E T E

R E D E V E L O P M E N T

OF NEW GRADE A OFFICE SPACE

28,000 SQ FT LARGE EFFICIENT FLOOR PLATES

3,760 SQ FT FEATURE RECEPTION AREA

2.8 M

FLOOR TO CEILING HEIGHT

5 STOREY SCENIC GLAZED LIFT

DART, LUAS, DUBLIN BUS and DUBLIN BIKES on doorstep COMPLETION AUGUST 2017 Deirdre Costello +353 1 6731600 deirdre.costello@eu.jll.com

Ger Carr +353 1 6731668 ger.carr@eu.jll.com

JLL Styne House Upper Hatch Street Dublin 2 www.jll.ie PRSA No: 002273

Play at ...

OFFBEAT Palast der Republik is the bar to hang out in in Stuttgart – which is a bit unusual because it used to be a public toilet. In summer, benches and the walls outside start to fill up with the afterwork crowd, and are still packed with an eclectic range of beer drinkers – from bankers to skateboarders – well into the night. (Friedrichstrasse 27, +49 711 226 4887) CHILLED Opened in 1953, Café Weiss is the ideal bar if you’re looking to chill into the early hours. Ask Harry behind the bar to make you a Schwäbischer tequila, the region’s version of the salt-and-lemon

drinking ritual, although this starts with a dob of mustard-mayo, is followed by the fruit brandy Obstler and finishes with a piece of blood sausage. (Geissstrasse 16, +49 711 244 121; cafe-weiss.de) CASINO There is nothing better than making money in the day and winning some more in the evening. Try your luck on the gambling tables at the city’s Spielbank Casino, with roulette, blackjack and poker cash games. There is food available and live music on Fridays and Saturdays. Bring your ID. (Plieningerstrasse 100, +49 711 900 190; spielbank-stuttgart.de)

Fly return to Stuttgart for 13,000 Avios points. And, remember, if you don’t have enough Avios points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you do have and pay the rest in cash.*

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Come summertime, Palace Square will be jammers with sun seekers, picnickers and harried office workers looking to unwind at lunchtime.

*BASED ON RETURN FLIGHTS IN OFF-PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

PHOTOGTRAPHS COURTESY OF STUTTGART MARKETING GMBH / WERNER DIETERICH

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Business

I LOVE VISITING ...

A DAY IN THE LIFE Paddy Butler is co-manager at Libreria, an innovative East London bookshop created by the workspace company Second Home.

6.30am I tune in to BBC Radio 4’s Today programme to get an idea of what’s going on in the world – a must, as is a charge-me-up coffee before I go through the latest book reviews in the Times Literary Supplement, the NY Review of Books and the Guardian to catch up with new titles for the shop. That’s probably my favourite part of the day. Then it’s out the door for my usual crazy cycling commute from Camberwell, in south London.

by publisher meetings, but also valuable time on the floor with customers and a chance to recommend exciting new titles, which have just come in. We usually lunch across the road at Jago restaurant in Second Home; always good to catch-up with the crew there and find out how our various projects are doing, foremost on our minds is the recently opened Second Home Lisbon, a remarkably beautiful addition.

We’re very proud.

8am I usually get to Libreria by eight-ish. We’re just across the road from Second Home, an innovative workspace company that created the shop. Second Home is full of amazing small businesses, startups and innovators, and I love meeting them all when they come to hang out in the shop.

3pm The afternoon is usually bustling-busy in the shop and it’s always a great opportunity to see what piques our book-loving visitors’ interests. At 3.30pm today, I made my way across town to the Monocle Radio studios to talk on their radio show The Stack. We talk books, curation and what makes Libreria such a special place for book lovers. Then it’s back across town for an evening in Libreria – because we open late, people usually come down and grab a beer from the fridge and browse, with music in the background and board games out, all good fun.

9.30am The team is in and we go through the week with a tasty coffee from our new machine (we’ve named it Bruce Willis, as the team – made up of women – decided I needed a new buddy), and chat about upcoming events or our guest shelf-curations. Libreria was created as a space that’s celebrating serendipity, discovery and creativity, and we love to expose people to ideas they wouldn’t usually come across. That’s why our shelves are organised into categories such as “Enchantment for the Disenchanted” or “Sea and the Sky”, and we often get other people to curate them. At the minute our cast includes the authors Max Porter and Jonathan Safran Foer, the award-winning human rights lawyer Philippe Sands, and the gallerist Hannah Barry.

Noon Midday is usually buffered either side

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7pm If there’s no bookshop event, I love to sample the delights of culinary London with friends and colleagues – at present my favourite must-go-to restaurant is The Palomar in Soho: exceptional food and a pretty good wine list to boot.

Nighttime It’s books at bedtime. I’m really enjoying an early novel by Michael Chabon right now. I’ve also got Lyndal Roper’s study of Luther on the go (for when I’m feeling that little bit braver). The bibliography printed at the back is enough to make this grown guy weep.

LISBON, PORTUGAL It has a formidable literary legacy, and there are many beautiful bookshops here but Ler Devagar (lerdevagar.com) is a remarkable one that sits just under the gigantic suspension bridge that spans the Tagus.

Also, check out the Time Out market for kaleidoscopic shellfish dishes and wine.

ATHENS, GREECE I will be travelling to Athens soon for the opening of my artist friend Sofia Stevi’s solo show at The Breeder gallery (thebreedersystem. com). The city’s markets and café culture are refreshingly relaxed, albeit energised with a pullulating voice. Steeped in history, what more could you want?

BERLIN, GERMANY I have been here many times and seen the East change immeasurably. What makes it so great is its laid-back, down-to-earth feel and attitude. Alexanderplatz is the area to hang out – my favourite is Bar 3 (Weydingerstraße 20) where all the theatre actors and artists supposedly hang out. Make time for Center (room.e1027.net), currently run by my curator brother Tommy!

MMVI

Straffan House

A Private House Hotel Exclusively Yours...

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RESIDENCES

Business

2

1

STAY EVEN Hotels aim to make travel and wellness go hand in hand at their newest outpost in Brooklyn. Bedrooms have an In-Room Training Zone, which includes a mounted fitness wall, plus eucalyptus-fibre bed linen, rainfall showers and LED mood lighting to help guests decompress after a busy day.

Rooms from €120. (46 Nevins Street, +1 718 552 3800; evenhotels.com)

ACCESSORY Whether you want to ditch the background bustle of a new city or immerse yourself in music on your flight, the Sony MDR-1000X headphones are the business. As well as Bluetooth connectivity, these sleek headphones tailor sound to your surroundings: “quick attention” mode means you just have to touch the ear cup to cut the music and chat to someone, without taking your headset off. €429 at sony.ie

3 BUSINESS

TRAVEL HOT LIST

From new hotels to helpful books, Lisa Hughes has your jet-setting sussed.

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EVENT “Work, Learn and Play” is the theme of Digifest 2017, which runs in Toronto from April 27-29. As well as opportunities to mingle with tech-savvy peers, this creative gathering organised by George Brown College offers skill-building workshops, a pitch competition and presentations about the most innovative new technologies. (Corus Quay, 25 Dockside Drive; torontodigifest.ca)

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GADGET The SKROSS Pro Light USB World travel adapter should be at the top of any packing checklist. Don’t be fooled by its compact size – this multitasking plug can be used in more than 200 countries and, with the built-in dual USB port, you can charge two devices at the same time. €44.90 at skross.com

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EAT Birmingham-bound business travellers looking for a place to grab a bite should check out the new Tom’s Kitchen. This restaurant founded by chef Tom Aikens – his first outside London – serves reliable favourites, such as his signature steaks and burgers, as well as exclusiveto-Brum picks, like the prawn tagliatelle and spiced pumpkin with burrata. (53/57 Wharfside Street, The Mailbox, +44 121 289 5111; tomskitchen.co.uk)

7

BOOK Tax is a confusing business (unless you’re an accountant) but new book Small and Expanding Businesses: Getting the Tax Right

by Kerri O’Connell of Chartered Accountants Ireland aims to demystify the Irish tax system.

A jargon-free guide for owners and managers of SMEs, chapters range from “Keeping Taxes on Profits Down” to “Establishing a Foreign Presence”. €45 at charteredaccountants.ie/books

APP Take your pick of meditation apps promising to make you more focused, but Simple Habit is the perfect choice for business travellers.

Founder Yunha Kim teamed up with Harvard psychologists and meditation pros to offer over 100 short guided sessions, including the travel-specific “Waiting at the Airport” and “Just Landed”. simplehabit.com

Business Hotel

SKYLINE STUNNER

Melanie Mullan feels at home at Miami’s towering EAST hotel.

WHAT & WHERE It’s difficult to miss the EAST, Miami Hotel with its distinctive glass-prism exterior and stacked balconies, whose façade makes it a stand-out fixture on Miami’s downtown skyline. Designed by local architecture firm Arquitectonica, this is the first venture of the Hong Kong company Swire Hotels into North America – and there’s even an Irish twist: its interiors were created by the Co Mayo-born, New York-based interior designer, Clodagh Design (no surname necessary), whose clean lines and sedate palette make for an elegant and welcoming

experience. Each of the 352 guest rooms, starting from $299, have floor-length windows, offering magnificent urban views and also vistas of shimmering Biscayne Bay. Long-term travellers, or those that like an extra bit of luxury, can make themselves at home in the residence suites, resting weary bones in an outdoor hot-tub. (788 Brickell Plaza, +1 305 712 7000; east-miami.com) DOWN TO BUSINESS In addition to the high-speed Wi-Fi and fully equipped conference facilities with technical support,

WORKING LUNCH For those looking for a lingering lunch, head to COYA, which is from the same stable as the fabled Zuma. Dishes are designed to be shared – and to transport guests on a regional journey through Peru. If you’re looking for a more informal setting, choose the Ceviche Counter where you can watch the chefs at work, or try sampling some of the restaurant’s in-house infused spirits at the Pisco Bar. (999 Brickell Avenue, +1 305 415 9990; coyarestaurant.com)

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EAST offers four workshop spaces of up to 78 square metres that can be modulated to intimate meetings and gatherings. The hotel café, Domain, is great for breakfast meetings with excellent coffee and light snacks, while larger groups can avail of the Rise venue located on the 38th floor, before heading to the Bali-inspired Sugar Bar for an after-work drink.

DOWNTIME If EAST, Miami’s outdoor pool and deck, or 24-hour gym, aren’t enough to help you unwind after a long day of meetings, take a walk around Bayfront Park (bayfrontparkmiami.com), where yoga classes are on offer six days a week. Art lovers should opt for the hotel’s “artEAST” special offer when reserving a room: it includes two free passes to the nearby Pérez Art Museum Miami (pamm.org), where there are plenty of exhibitions to ponder before heading back to the hotel for some Uruguayan cuisine at its restaurant, Quinto la Huella.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Miami three times per week from September 1.

Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT S ITY C

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Cultivate passion, kill perfection I find perfection to be the antithesis of progress. The most inspiring people are those who are passionate about what they do.

They approach challenges and opportunities with enthusiasm, it’s infectious and it’s how you move forward. Ultimately, we make a living by what we get and a life by what we give.

GAVIN HALLIDAY is CEO of Avios Group Ltd. AerClub members can now collect Avios points on Aer Lingus flights and airline partners, as well as purchase from a wide range of brands including retailers, hotels and car hire, across Ireland, Europe and North America.

1

Authenticity is everything Maya Angelou is my favourite writer, and a great source of inspiration because of her authenticity. In business and in life authenticity is a key attribute and it is only by being who we truly are that we can inspire others.

2

Life is a circle A supplementary point should probably be: ‘read widely and often’ because my second lesson learnt is inspired by another great author, Paulo Coelho. In Paulo’s

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book The Alchemist he defines the circular nature of life. The way you interact with people – the sponsorship you give them, the mentoring and support – will be reflected in the feedback and respect you receive yourself.

3

We’re more alike than we are different I’ve lived and worked in a number of different cultures and I’ve found that ultimately, everybody I’ve ever met shares similar motivations and ambitions. We have a lot

5

Teams that work together succeed I love rugby. It’s by far my favourite sport, not least for its parallels with business.

The most successful rugby teams are those that work together as a team rather than as a group of individuals. There’s no room for egos – every player must play their role. You see it in rugby and you see it in business: teams that work well together succeed.

6

Change yourself and change the world Aviation is a highly competitive industry.

The very best business leaders are those that anticipate trends and are open to innovation. Being prepared to evolve the business, your teams and most importantly yourself is vital for success. It’s a principle that applies more strongly now than ever living in a highly connected digital world.

NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY

s GaMviAnR’ T

more in common than exists to divide us. However, it’s vital to respect the differences that do exist and celebrate them. Challenging ourselves to assimilate and adopt the prevailing protocols of any culture – that’s how the best connections and relationships can be formed and sustained.

DESTINATION I’ve been lucky to fly to some far flung destinations but my favourite is the west coast of Ireland, and Co Galway in particular (I fly into Shannon from London). It embodies all the wonders of the Atlantic.

SLEEP AT Glenlo Abbey Hotel has to be my wife’s favourite. Here you can enjoy afternoon tea in carriages that once served on the Orient Express, with unrivalled views of the Irish landscape. glenloabbeyhotel.ie

EAT AT Steeped in Hollywood history and favoured by A-listers, including the Kennedys in their day; if I’m in Galway you’ll find me at Moran’s Oyster Cottage. Eating fresh seafood al fresco in summer is an experience that can’t be beaten.

As the poet WB Yeats once said, “life is a long preparation for something that never happens”, ie make the most of now. moransoystercottage.com

Do hen y & Nes bi t t 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.

Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.

Voted overall

best pub in Ireland in the hospitality Ireland awards

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH GEI130 PA

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome aboard 126 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 135 TV Shows 137 Boxsets 138 Music & Radio

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Welcome aboard Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!

Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on Youtube.

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. .

Conas atá tú? Ho w are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you.

When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times.

We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

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Are you ready for take-off and landing?

• Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode?

• Is your seatback fully upright?

• Is your armrest down?

• Is your tabletop stowed?

• Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting.

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/ take-off/initial climb/approach/ landing.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Two Unique Courses | One Stunning Location

The ideal choice for your next Corporate Golf Day Corporate Golf Membership packages available from €5,450

Contact: Marcus Doyle +353 1 281 2555 or marcus.doyle@druidsglenresort.com www.druidsglenresort.com | Newtownmountkennedy, Co. Wicklow.

Your comfort and safety Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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A safe flight for everyone. It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécurité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Please do

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Airbus 330

-200

For your Safety

Fógr a Sábh áilteacht Pour votre Sécurité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Seguridad

• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

• Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

not remov

Per la vostr a Sicurezza Säke rhet omb ord Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Pleas e do

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

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Aircraft

Mode

Mode

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

• Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

• Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

• You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

Historic O’Neill’s

the famous Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

• Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous • Pour Your Own Pint tables Carvery serving only the finest Irish • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s Lonely Planet rate us as one of the our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a Top 5 Places to find ‘Real Irish food fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys in Dublin’ and malts • Irish Music and Traditional Irish • HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan Dancing 7 nights-a-week with major international league games.

• Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Largest selection of local Irish can’t be beaten for quality and Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and representing as many of the local toast only €7.95, Pictured below. This Craft Breweries as possible, rotating special offer is available Mon-Fri and guesting beers only, 8am-11.30am.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week

Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

Box Office Movies Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky featuring a number of Oscar nominated films and actors.

Allied

R

Arrival

PG13

Moana

Walt Disney Animation Studios’ new feature film Moana is about an adventurous teenager who, with help from demigod Maui, sails out on a daring mission to prove herself a master wayfinder and save her people.

Assassin‘s Creed

PG13

124 mins | Drama A Canadian intelligence officer encounters a female French Resistance fighter on a mission. Stars Brad Pitt, Marion Cotillard

116 mins | Sci-Fi When mysterious spacecrafts touch down across the globe, an elite team is brought together to investigate. Stars Amy Adams, Jeremy Renner

115 mins | Action Callum Lynch is a descendant of the secret Assassins society. Stars Michael Fassbender, Marion Cotillard, Jeremy Irons

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Loving

PG13

123 mins | Biography The Lovings, an interracial couple, who fought a legal battle that would end at the US Supreme Court. Stars Ruth Negga, Joel Edgerton EN DE

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Manchester by the Sea

R

Miss Peregrine‘s Home for Peculiar Children

PG13

Bridget Jones‘s Baby

R

Collateral Beauty

PG13

123 mins | Comedy Bridget finds herself pregnant, but not sure who the father is. Stars Renée Zellweger, Colin Firth

97 mins | Drama A man questions the universe by writing to Love, Time and Death. Stars Will Smith, Edward Norton, Kate Winslet

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Rogue One: A Star Wars Story

PG13

The Accountant

135 mins | Drama An uncle is forced to take care of his teenage nephew. Stars Casey Affleck, Kyle Chandler, Michelle Williams

127 mins | Adventure A boy uncovers a refuge for kids. Stars Eva Green, Asa Butterfield

133 mins | Sci-Fi The Rebel Alliance makes a risky move to steal the plans for the Death Star. Stars Felicity Jones, Diego Luna

125 mins | Drama A man works for some dangerous criminal organisations. Stars Ben Affleck, Anna Kendrick

EN FR DE IT ES

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EN FR DE IT ES CCEN ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES

R

OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO

Loving

The story of Richard and Mildred Loving, an interracial couple, whose challenge of their antimiscegenation arrest for their marriage in Virginia led to a legal battle that would end at the US Supreme Court. The film stars Ruth Negga who was nominated for Best Actress at the Oscars.

Doctor Strange

PG13

Jackie

PG13

115 mins | Sci-Fi A former neurosurgeon starts on a journey of healing. Stars Benedict Cumberbatch, Rachel McAdams

100 mins | Biography First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy fights through grief to define her husband‘s legacy. Stars Natalie Portman, Peter Sarsgaard

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE ES

The Girl on the Train

R

The Magnificent Seven (2016)

PG13

Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them

PG13

Keeping Up with the Joneses

PG13

134 mins | Adventure Newt Scamander adventures in New York. Stars Eddie Redmayne, Colin Farrell

106 mins | Comedy A couple try to keep up with their neighbours. Stars Zach Galifianakis, Isla Fisher, Jon Hamm

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES

Why Him?

R

112 mins | Drama A woman becomes entangled in a mystery.

Stars Emily Blunt, Haley Bennett, Luke Evans

120 mins | Action A town falls under the control of an industrialist.

Stars Denzel Washington, Chris Pratt

111 mins | Comedy Ned Fleming realises that his daughter‘s Silicon Valley billionaire boyfriend is about to pop the question. Stars Bryan Cranston, James Franco

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Moana

La La Land

PG13

128 mins | Drama A jazz pianist falls for an aspiring actress in Los Angeles. Stars Ryan Gosling, Emma Stone, John Legend EN FR DE IT CCEN

PG

Storks

PG

103 mins | KidZone In Ancient Polynesia, Moana answers the Ocean‘s call to seek out the Demigod to set things right. Voiced by Auli‘i Cravalho, Dwayne Johnson

87 mins | KidZone A stork accidentally activates the Baby Making Machine. Voiced by Andy Samberg, Jennifer Aniston, Kelsey Grammer

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English AERLINGUS.COM |

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Movie Classics American Sniper 133 mins | Stars Bradley Cooper

R

Argo 116 mins | Stars Ben Affleck, Bryan Cranston

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

We also provide a selection of classic movies. Timeless favourites such as The Dark Knight Trilogy, voted on board by you. We also feature a selection of Irish short films and features.

Batman PG13 Begins 140 mins | Stars Christian Bale

Black Swan 109 mins | Stars Natalie Portman, Mila Kunis

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT

Contact PG 130 mins | Stars Jodie Foster, John Hurt

Edward PG13 Scissorhands 105 mins | Stars Johnny Depp

Enough PG13 Said 93 mins | Stars James Gandolfini

Epic PG 103 mins | Voiced by Amanda Seyfried

Happy Feet PG 108 mins | Voiced by Elijah Wood, Brittany Murphy

EN FR DE ES

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

In Bruges R 107 mins | Stars Colin Farrell, Brendan Gleeson

Jurassic PG13 Park 127 mins | Stars Samuel L Jackson

Let‘s Be Cops R 104 mins | Stars Jake Johnson, Damon Wayans Jr

Lincoln PG13 145 mins | Stars Daniel Day-Lewis, Sally Field

Mad Max: Fury Road 121 mins | Stars Tom Hardy

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Mrs PG13 Doubtfire 126 mins | Stars Robin Williams

Once 85 mins. Stars | Glen Hansard, Markéta Irglová

Romeo & PG13 Juliet (1996) 121 mins | Stars Claire Danes

Ruby Sparks 104 mins | Stars Paul Dano, Zoe Kazan

Titanic PG13 195 mins | Stars Kate Winslet, Leonardo di Caprio

EN FR DE

EN

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT

The Dark PG13 Knight 152 mins | Stars Heath Ledger

The Dark PG13 Knight Rises 164 mins | Stars Tom Hardy

The Great R Gatsby (2013) 134 mins | Stars Leonardo di Caprio

The Wedding PG13 Singer 95 mins | Stars Adam Sandler

You‘ve Got Mail PG 120 mins | Stars Tom Hanks, Meg Ryan

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

R

R

R

R

Casablanca PG 102 mins | Stars Humphrey Bogart, Ingrid Bergman

R

I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S

Crash PG13 and Burn 86 mins | Stars Tommy Byrne

Forever PG Roars The Vast Atlantic 3 mins | Directed

by James Alexander

Gridlock R 20 mins | Stars Moe Dunford, Peter Coonan, Amy De Bhrún

Mr Ripple PG13 – Ireland‘s Oldest Ice Cream Man? 6 mins

Sláinte PG13 mo Chara 5 mins | Directed by Ciaran O‘Brien

Today R 5 mins | Stars John Connors, Lalor Roddy

The Flag PG 85 mins | Stars Pat Shortt, Moe Dunford, Simone Kirb

The Heist R 9 mins | Stars Sean Flanagan, Donal Gallery

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DUNNE & CRESCENZI

Valued collection of casual Italian restaurants

History in every plate...

DUNNE & CRESCENZI 14-16 South Frederick Street Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 675 9892

DUNNE & CRESCENZI 11 Seafort Avenue Sandymount, Dublin 4 Tel: +353 (1) 667 3252

BAR ITALIA 26 Lower Ormond Quay Dublin 1 Tel: +353 (1) 874 1000

CASA 17 South Frederick Street Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 679 8648

L’OFFICINA Kildare Retail Village Tel: +353 045 535850

L’OFFICINA Dundrum Town Centre Tel: +353 (1) 216 6764

The latest chapter in the D&C story...

DUNNE & CRESCENZI BLACKROCK SHOPPING CENTRE Tel: +353 (1) 525 2012

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Proud to be part of the McKenna Top 100 Restaurant Guide

TANKARDSTOWN HOUSE

RELAXED GRANDEUR WARM HOSPITALITY IMPECCABLE SERVICE DELICIOUS CUISINE CORPORATE AND CONFERENCE EVENTS LUXURIOUS GUEST ROOMS SPECIAL OCCASIONS

Just a 40-minute drive from Dublin, but a million miles away from anywhere

E: INFO@TANKARDSTOWN.IE T: 00 353 (0)41 982 4621 WWW.TANKARDSTOWN.IE

TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.

Whiskey Business We meet Irish brothers, Jack and Stephen Teeling who are eager to follow in the footsteps of their ancestors and bring whiskey distilling back to Dublin‘s city centre by constructing a brand new Teeling Whiskey Distillery and Visitor’s Centre.

BUSINESS

Business Planet, Real Economy Looking at a range of small and medium enterprises CNBC Conversation CNBC meets iconic fashion designer, Karl Lagerfeld CNN: Leading Women Series 1, Episode 19, CNN‘s Robyn Kriel speaks to Lupita Nyong‘o and Meg Whitman C O M E DY

Baskets Series 1, Episodes 1 (Pilot) & 2 Silicon Valley Series 3, Episodes 1 & 2 The Big Bang Theory Series 9, Episode 1 & 2 Veep Series 5, Episodes 1 & 2 D O C U M E N TA R Y

Bill Nye‘s Global Meltdown Bill Nye experiences the stages of climate change grief Building Ireland The history of Spike Island Primal Survivor 2 A seafaring mission using techniques of Bajau sea gypsies Telescope One-Off Special, NASA‘s James Webb Telescope sees farther into the universe

It‘s Always Sunny in Philadelphia It‘s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, centres around the lives of four egocentric friends whose warped views and precarious judgement often lead to trouble. Mac, Charlie and Dennis own an Irish pub in Philadelphia where Dennis‘s sister, Sweet Dee works as its bartender.

Although they are all generally interested in making Paddy‘s Irish Pub a successful business, they sometimes have a greater interest in scamming each other!

On board is Series 11, Episodes 3 & 4.

DR AMA

Arrow Season 4, Episode 1 Banshee Series 4, Episodes 1 & 2 Billions Season 1 Boxset Fargo Season 2 Boxset Game of Thrones Season 6 Boxset Suits Season 6 Boxset The Newsroom Series 2, Episodes 3 & 4 The Night Of Season 1 Boxset LIFEST YLE

Room to Improve Series 9, Episode 2, A man has bought a 1930s Victorian house.

Royal Jewellers Series 5, Episode 1, Interviews from the jewellery/goldsmith world Whiskey Business Series 1, Episode 1, The Teeling family construct a new distillery

Giving Tales Classic fairy tales for children and adults alike written

by Hans Christian Andersen and read by some of the best voices of our time such as Ewan McGregor and Joan Collins. Developed in association with UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador, Roger Moore.

K I DZ O N E SPORT

Football‘s Greatest 2 Series 1, Episode 1, Rivaldo, players transcend their sport Point of Extreme Series 1, Episode 1, Skim boarders and snow boarders in action Wild Surf Series 2, Episode 6, Take a look at the Shark encounter at the J-Bay Open

iCarly Season 5, Episode 1, After the events of ‘iLost my Mind‘ Learn To Draw A step-by-step drawing show presented by Øistein Kristiansen Marvel’s Avengers Assemble Series 2, Episode 1, There‘s a villain amongst the Avengers SpongeBob Squarepants Series 8, Episode 10, Patrick‘s big sister Samantha visits

NEWS & EVENTS

In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

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ENJOY THE BEST OF DUBLIN

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Billions Season 1 Boxset

Boxsets Choose from five boxsets to watch on board today. Delve into the fantasy world of Game of Thrones, a complex murder case in The Night Of, the murky world of financial crime in Billions, legal drama Suits or the quirky crime series Fargo.

Billions is a complex and timely drama about the pursuit of a hedge fund manager by a ruthless US attorney. Bobby ‘Axe‘ Axelrod is a self-made Wall Street billionaire played by Emmy award-winner Damian Lewis. US attorney, Chuck Rhoades, played by another award-winning actor, Paul Giamatti, leads the fight against financial corruption in America.

When Chuck gets a tip off that Bobby may be involved in some dodgy dealings, a showdown between these two characters is inevitable as both men use their power and influence in various attempts to outmanoeuvre each other.

Created by Brian Koppelman, David Levien and Andrew Ross Sorkin, Billions first aired in January 2016.

Game of Thrones, Season 6 Boxset Episode 1: The fate of Jon Snow is revealed.

Episode 2: Bran trains with the Three-Eyed Raven.

Episode 3: Daenerys arrives at Vaes Dothrak.

Episode 4: Sansa arrives at Castle Black.

Episode 5: Sansa and Jon make plans.

Episode 6: Bran and Meera find a new ally. Gilly meets Sam's family.

Episode 7: Jon and Sansa gather troops. Jamie arrives at Riverrun.

Episode 8: Brienne arrives at Riverrun and Arya seeks shelter.

Episode 9: Jon and Sansa face Ramsay on the fields of Winterfell.

Episode 10: Cersei and Loras Tyrell stand trial by the gods.

Fargo, Season 2 Boxset Episode 1: An event in a small-town diner disrupts people‘s lives.

Episode 2: The Gerhardts get a surprising offer.

Episode 3: The Gerhardts‘ search for Rye intensifies.

Episode 4: Floyd responds to Kansas City‘s proposal.

Episode 5: Floyd takes action, and Charlie tries to prove himself.

Episode 6: Lou and Hank try to prevent an altercation.

Episode 7: Lou and Hank investigate in Fargo.

Episode 8: Hanzee searches for Peggy and Ed. Episode 9: Peggy and Ed agree to follow their plan.

Episode 10: Hanzee goes after Ed and Peggy.

Suits, Season 6 Boxset Episode 1: Mike creates a big problem for himself and Harvey.

Episode 2: Louis, Jessica and Harvey fend off a class action lawsuit.

Episode 3: Mike tries to remain safe.

Episode 4: Harvey and Sean Cahill launch a plan.

Episode 5: The plan to get Mike out early becomes complicated.

Episode 6: Jessica makes a play for Cahill‘s business.

Episode 7: Mike takes a drastic step to get Kevin on his side.

Episode 8: Harvey counters Cahill‘s star witness.

Episode 9: New developments threaten the deals.

Episode 10: Even with Mike out of prison, the partners face a crisis.

The Night Of Season 1 Boxset Pakistani-American student Nasir ‘Naz‘ Khan (played by Riz Ahmed) picks up a beautiful young woman called Andrea as he makes his way to a party in his father’s taxi cab in New York City. Naz never makes it to the party and instead goes back to Andrea’s place, where following a night of drugs, alcohol and sex, he awakens to find her stabbed to death with no recollection of what has happened. This crime series delves into the murder case that ensues, following the police investigation and legal proceedings while Naz awaits his trial.

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Music & Radio Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

EASY LISTENING

Rebecca Ferguson Superwoman is the fourth studio album by English singer-songwriter Rebecca Ferguson. She came to prominence in 2010 when she became the runner-up of the seventh series of The X Factor, losing to the winner that year, Matt Cardle.

POP

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels CL ASSIC AL

The Blue of the Night Carl Corcoran, RTÉ LyricFM INDIE

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, TodayFM

Late Date Cathal Murray, RTÉ Radio Nicky Byrne & Jenny Greene RTÉ 2fm Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs The Eoghan McDermott Show 2FM Drivetime The Greatest Hits of All Time RTÉ Gold with Paul Moriarty The Big Ride Home Dara Quilty, Dublin’s 98FM

IRISH ROCK

Ceol na Gael with Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists

Marty Miller Radio Nova TA L K

Documentary on One RTÉ Radio 1, Ireland’s Secret Hangman and Jeff Buckley Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk

K I DZ O N E

Classical Kids Ian McGlynn, RTÉ Junior

The Eoghan McDermot Show Eoghan McDermott from 2FM Drivetime presents a special Aer Lingus show of average radio with pop culture, cranial acrobatics and he’ll even throw in the odd song for you too.

Expect laughs and a lively soundtrack!

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Kenny Chesney Kenny Chesney is an American country music singer, songwriter and record producer and Cosmic Hallelujah is his 17th studio album.

He has recorded 20 albums, 14 of which have been certified gold or higher by the RIAA. He has also produced more than 40 top 10 singles on the US Billboard Hot Country Songs and Country Airplay charts, 29 of which have reached number one on the charts.

We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!

Gavin James Bitter Pill is the debut studio album from Dublin singer-songwriter Gavin James, featuring the popular hits For You, Nervous and the soul-infused title track Bitter Pill, which won Irish Song of the Year at Ireland’s Choice Music Prize in 2015 and received rave reviews following a performance on James Corden’s The Late Late Show. Find out more about Gavin, his creative process and his success as he introduces tracks off this spectacular debut.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

Billy Joel Glass Houses Cyndi Lauper The Essential Cyndi Lauper Elvis Presley The Wonder of You James Brown Platinum & Gold Collection Leonard Cohen Death of a Ladies‘ Man Roy Orbison The Ultimate Collection A LT E R N AT I V E

CRX New Skin Jimmy Eat World Integrity Blues Natalie Prass Side by Side Pink Floyd Pulse (Live) The Black Moods Medicine Tom Grennan Something in the Water CL ASSIC AL

Glenn Gould 50 Masterworks – Glenn Gould Lucas Debargue Bach, Beethoven & Medtner Ulrike Hofbauer & Ensemble &cetera Leonardo Leo: Sacred Works Various Artists Barry Meets Beethoven Various Artists Mitologia – Handel: Arias & Duets

COUNTRY

Alan Jackson Genuine: The Alan Jackson Story Jason Aldean They Don‘t Know Kenny Chesney Cosmic Hallelujah Kane Brown Kane Brown Miranda Lambert The Weight of These Wings Willie Nelson The Demos Project, Vol. 1 ELEC TRO

Faithless Sunday 8 PM Jean-Michel Jarre Electronica 1: The Time Machine (Deluxe Edition) Netsky 3 Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 Various Big Beats Various Big Beats 2 IR ISH

Damien Dempsey It‘s All Good – The Best of Damien Dempsey Gavin James Bitter Pill Hare Squead Supernormal Hermitage Green Live at the Curragower Bar The Kanyu Tree People Street Van Morrison Keep Me Singing

JA Z Z

Bria Skonberg Bria Erroll Garner Ready Take One Miles Davis Miles Davis Quintet: Freedom Jazz Dance: The Bootleg Series, Vol 5 Nils Petter Molvær Buoyancy The Bad Plus Made Possible Various Artists Tony Bennett Celebrates 90 M E TA L

Bullet for My Valentine Fever In Flames Clayman Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Ozzy Osbourne Diary of a Madman Soilwork The Ride Majestic OPER A

Leonard BernsteinACT01 West Side Story Paul Potts One Chance Plácido Domingo, Pablo Heras-Casado & Orquestra de la Comunitat Valenciana Verdi Various Opera‘s Legendary Performances Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets

Alicia Keys Here is the sixth studio album by American singer-songwriter Alicia Keys, following Girl on Fire (2012). The album features guest appearance from A$AP Rocky as well as contributions from Roy Ayers, Emeli Sandé, Swizz Beatz, and Pharrell Williams.

P OP

James Arthur Back from the Edge Little Mix Glory Days Olly Murs 24 Hrs Robbie Williams The Heavy Entertainment Show Various Artists BBC Radio 1‘s Live Lounge 2016 The Chainsmokers Collage RNB

Alicia Keys Here Craig David Following My Intuition Izzy Bizu A Moment of Madness John Legend Darkness and Light Rebecca Ferguson Superwoman Usher Hard II Love

ROCK

AC/DC Highway to Hell Bruce Springsteen Chapter and Verse Chevelle The North Corridor Steve Vai Modern Primitive Sundara Karma Youth is Only Ever Fun in Retrospect K I DZ O N E

Kidz Bop Kids Kidz Bop 30 Leonard Bernstein Bernstein Favorites: Children‘s Classics Burl Ives Burl Ives Sings Little White Duck and Other Children‘s Favorites Various Trolls (Original Movie Soundtrack) Hans Christian Anderson Giving Tales Various Artists Too Cool for School, Mixtape for Kids

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Where are you flying to?

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens.

Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have.

Here you can, collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Passport Control and Security Screening

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Geataí Gates

101-335

Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Departure Gate

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow

401-426

Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Flight Connections for North American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

DUBLIN TOWN - THE SHOW ‘A journey through Dublin’s Secrets’

Stories told and secrets shared through traditional Irish music, dance and craic in one of Dublin's most historic venues

Number

TWENTY TWO

Located just off Grafton Street, minutes walk from Trinity College, Temple Bar and major tourist attractions

Theatre of Varieties

DINNER & SHOW €54.95 | SHOW ONLY €25 TICKETS AVAILABLE NUMBERTWENTYTWO.IE or EVENTBRITE.IE 22 SOUTH ANNE STREET | DUBLIN 2

CALL

(01) 707 98 99 |

EMAIL

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EAT LIKE YOU

Our 7oz* flame-grilled burgers are made with prime cuts of beef from Ireland. We use carefully select beef brisket and chuck steak to give you the very best flavour and succulence.

New

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St. Stephen’s Green • Temple Bar Blanchardstown • Dundrum • Liffey Valley • Swords

Our European and North American Route Network

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver

Thunder Bay

Victoria Seattle Duluth

Traverse

Minneapolis Eugene

Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Medford

Grand Rapids

Omaha

Des Moines

Denver

Reno

Kansas

Fort Wayne Akron Canton Chicago

Fresno Las Vegas Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Palm Springs Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Springfield

San Jose

Oklahoma City

Washington (Dulles)

Phoenix Tucson

Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

El Paso Houston

Providence

Boston

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Austin

Honolulu Kahului

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis

Halifax

Portland ME

Washington (National)

Lexington

Little Rock

Albany

Hartford

Newark

Cincinnati

Nashville

Tulsa

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Moncton

Burlington Syracuse

Columbus Harrisburg

Dayton

Indianapolis

St Louis

Oakland

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Toronto

Fredericton

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

San Antonio

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

San Juan Aguadilla

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to ten US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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Ponce

Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America.

Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

London (Gatwick)

Warsaw

DĂźsseldorf

Southampton

Exeter

Newquay

s

Berlin

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff

Hamburg Amsterdam

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante Murcia Malaga

Izmir

Athens Catania

Faro

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

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Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Johannesburg

Cape Town

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

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For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

TEMPLE BAR • DUBLIN 2 TEL: 671 7777 • HARDROCK.COM

Staying connected on board*

Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.

THE SMARICTE CHO

Aer Social

€6.95 $7.95

Mobile Network on board

With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**.

Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode.

Ensure you switch off ‘flight safe‘ mode.

2 Aeromobile

€13.95 $15.95

Aer Max

€29.95 $32.95

Wi-Fi on board in six steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Connect

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

3 Welcome SMS

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

International roaming rates apply.

4 Connected

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

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| AERLINGUS.COM

3 Purchase Internet Access

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.

HISTORYSO REAL YOUCANALMOST SMELLTHE SMOKE Explore the 1916 Easter Rising & modern Irish History in a spectacular setting General Post Office, Dublin www.gpowitnesshistory.ie

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes “It’s crystal clear” A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.

No.1 of 53 attractions in Waterford

+353 (0) 51 317000 houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating.

Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.

Aerlingus.com

Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland.

Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.

OPEN DAILY 12.30PM 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590

BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

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RESULTS IN MINU TES WITH THE INST ANT EFFECTS MIRA CLE TRIO

Spring Scen ts Spray goodbye to the winter months and step into spring with a selection of woody and fruity aromas.

00 Cover.indd 1

VICTORIA’S SECRET – FRAGRANCE SCENTED CRAYONS Scents on-the-go – this range of scented crayons is perfect for your handbag(s!) for a quick top up throughout the day.

MAX BENJAMIN – CANDLE DUO

Relax and unwind with these Fresh Linen Water and White Pomegranate candles that are a treat for the senses as well as your home.

JO MALONE LONDON – LIME BASIL & MANDARIN COLOGNE After a long winter, it’s time to treat yourself to something special.

Layers of citrus and herbs combine to transport you to lands far away.

JAGUAR – PACE

If a Jaguar is on the wishlist, this new fragrance is the next best thing. Its deep notes, including black pepper and cashmere wood, distil the car brand’s mystique and sophistication into one bottle – the keyring an added bonus.

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CALVIN KLEIN – CK ONE GOLD

The combination of wood and fruit notes make this a perfect sharing bottle for him and her – although once opened, not everyone will be willing to share ...

MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

Two Fine Irish American Pubs in Jersey City, New Jersey, USA PJ Ryans Tavern 292 Barrow St. Downtown 201-333-8752

PJ Ryans Squared 4 PATH Plaza in Journal Square 201-222-1600

28 TV’s to catch any sport

LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY

LIVE MUSIC • Th, Fr, Sat

51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie

NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK

Supper club with live music every Friday night Happy Hour Daily 4-7

pjryansjc.com

1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

TRIP OF A LIFETIME | MÁLAGA

WALKING ON AIR

ertiginous is the only word for it, so it’s a test of trust when you take on the challenge of walking the Caminito del Rey. Trust that the engineers knew what they were doing. Trust that the workmen were not in a Friday mood when they stitched this hanging walkway to the edge of the ravine.

Here is a primordial place of karst and limestone spat up from under the sea, gouged out by the Guadalhorce river over aeons.

And here the gorge built its own importance. At the beginning of the 20th century, when industry was developing in Málaga, the potential for cashing in on the differing heights between the Gaitanejo Gorge and Los Gaitanes to produce electricity was realised. What an enormous feat of engineering to build this precarious walkway of nearly three kilometres in length, hanging 100 metres above the river so that workers could get from one end of the gorge to the next to carry out the necessary maintenance. It was named the King’s Little Path, when King Alphonso XIII came to see it in 1921.

Over the years, cement began to crumble and the iron supports turned as soft as apple peelings.

A number of thrill seekers danced with death – and lost; so it was boarded up. In 2015, a new and safer boardwalk was opened, which has allowed lily-livered people such as me to experience the adventure.

At the Caminito’s entrance, they make us wear hard hats. This is to protect our heads in the event of

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF PETER MOORE

Author Geraldine Mills takes on the dizzying Caminito del Rey near Málaga.

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rocks falling from above, such as on days like this when the wind whips up everything into a frenzy and blows path dust into our faces.

Umbrellas are banned, as are high heels and shouting. Thankfully I hadn’t planned any tightrope walking in stilettos while twirling a brolly. And as for shouting! Well, quiet will be my middle name.

Terrified and excited in equal measure, I take my first timorous step on the boardwalk. I survive that so I take another. When my

Top, intent on keeping her head, Geraldine dons a Caminito del Rey hard hat; above, gorgeous tafoni in the gorge.

liver is not quite so lilied I sneak a look above and below me. Nothing but vastness of rock; a geomorphology that has created ancient canyons of limestone and sandstone. Some areas are full of tafoni, or rounded holes in the rock, that make perfect nesting places for the doves that fly in and out without a care in the world. Concentric circles of a fossil in the wall prove that this precipice was once below water. How brave the little plants that find just enough purchase in a hairline crack of rock to germinate and hang on.

At one point there is a glass platform that juts out over the gorge. Knees buckling, stomach turning to mush, I brave this too.

I feel so at risk and so utterly alive at the same time. Whirling above me, six griffon vultures at home in the dizzying massif, glide on the thermals. I don’t plan to be tapas for them so I keep my head as we cross the rope bridge that swings from one side of the gorge to the other. And as I see the end of the walkway in sight, I cannot tell whether it is the electricity wires or the grillos (cicadas) that are singing each to each.

Geraldine Mills is an award-winning writer with four collections of poetry and three of short stories. Her first children’s novel, Gold, has just been published by Little Island. littleisland.ie

Great little things about Ireland

no. 18

The grass really is greener

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