Cara August 2014

CARA Magazine August 2014

August 2014

Hozier Irish curators Wild Atlantic Way 2 Chicago

FINDING HIS VOICE

THE RISE OF BLUESMAN HOZIER

Budapest Lisbon

Blown away

The Wild Atlantic Way

Best shopping cities

Our kind of town

Chicago, note by note

Walk on by

Get lost in Lisbon

Faro

A river runs through it

Windsor

Cool-hunting in Budapest

Milan

PLUS

MEET THE IRISH MUSEUM CURATORS

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

AIB Corporate Banking Ireland is proud to support global investment in Ireland.

As one of the most attractive countries for global Foreign Direct Investment, Ireland is home to many of the best-known and most successful companies from around the world.

And at AIB, we provide corporate banking services to more of these global companies than any other bank in Ireland. Talk to us about how we can help you locate and grow your company’s presence in Ireland.

Contact Details: Diarmuid O’Neill, Head of Corporate Banking Ireland Tel: +353 1 641 4808 Email: diarmuid.e.o’neill@aib.ie Web: www.aibcorporate-fdi.com

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Contents AUGUST 2014

68

54 Southern sights

Chicago sounds

Check in 04 ARRIVALS Were you photographed at Dublin’s T2?

07

CHECK IN What’s hot this month, from food news to nightlife trends

18

ON MY TRAVELS The inspiring adventures of Mark Pollock

20 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Footballer Keith Andrews at home and away 22 SMART TRAVELLER Disney’s Nancy Kanter hearts New York 24 UP FOR THE MATCH Hurling and GAA has Darragh McManus on the edge of his seat 26 A GLASS ACT Lauren Murphy’s Kilkenny Arts Festival highlights

Features

28 JUST KIDDING Sheila Wayman’s school holiday must-dos

36

30 THE LIFE AQUATIC Life’s a beach for Ruth Anna Coss 32

WEEKENDER Frances Power casts a line at Ballynahinch Castle

34 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican chats to Lynn Barber, and leafs through restaurant design

42 Passion projects

BLUES BROTHER Tony Clayton-Lea catches troubadour Hozier on the ascent

80

42 LABOURS OF LOVE Lucy White meets Irish museum curators

Lisbon’s beaches

54 THE WILD WEST: THE SEQUEL The Wild Atlantic Way is a magnet for Pól Ó Conghaile

Regulars

68 SWEET HOME CHICAGO Niall Byrne on the Windy City music scene

116 48 HOURS IN WINDSOR Castles and Legoland. Brilliant! says Lisa Hughes

80 ENTERING THE LABYRINTH Hilary Fannin loses herself in Lisbon

119 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO MILAN Brian Hussey struts the style capital’s streets

92 IN THE EYE OF HISTORY Past and present collide in Budapest, finds Neil Hegarty

122 SPOTLIGHT Niamh Wade’s Faro snapshot

104 7 BEST SHOPPING CITIES Stylist Courtney Smith’s global retail therapy 113 CLOSE ENCOUNTERS Lucy White gets her Argentine tango on

125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT All aboard for the latest films, TV, music and news 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Maria ‘The Nualas’ Tecce camps in the Moroccan desert

Contributors EDITORIAL Editor Frances Power Acting Editor Dave Robbins Deputy Editor Lucy White Assistant Editor Niamh Wade Editorial Assistant Ellen Lunney Contributors Ruth Anna Coss, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes

Jo Journalist, travel blogger (therumdiaries.net) and cit city break fan Lisa Hughes is no stranger to li living out of a suitcase. An ardent fan of British cit London and Bath, she recently found her cities pe perfect English countryside escape in Windsor.

“W the namesake castle, the Queen Victoria “With st statue in the centre of town, the scenic Long Walk and also a rich film history as a location for classics like Goldfinger, it’s a must for anyone with a penchant for British culture. Windsor is so quaint it’s impossible to believe you’re less than an hour from London.”

Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Commercial Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie Advertising Director Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Executive Corinné Vaughan +353 (0)1 271 9622, corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Maeve Barry, +353 (0)1 271 9643, maeve.barry@image.ie Acting Financial Controller Barbara O’Reilly Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Ann Reihill Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Richard Power, Robert Power, Gina Traynor PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

Mark Duggan is a freelance photographer based in Dublin specialising in commercial, editorial and food photography (markdugganphotography. com). He also directs music videos and TV commercials as well as being one half of Forkful (forkful.tv), a series of online food films. He also has a weekly column in the Independent’s Insider magazine.

When not working on any of the above, he can usually be found sleeping. It was Mark’s first time in Chicago for the feature. It definitely won’t be his last.

Hilary Fannin is a playwright and journalist. She writes a weekly column for The Irish Times, which takes a wry lo look at life as a fifty-something. She was writer-in-association wri at the Abbey Theatre fo its centenary year, and her plays have for been performed in Europe and Canada.

Whe When she was a teenager, her brother wa was stranded in Lisbon after his boat hit a wha whale off the Portuguese coast. Ever since, sh she has wanted to uncover for herself the al allure of Portugal’s gloriously shabby and wo wonderfully beguiling capital.

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie.

Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content.

Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

August 2014

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

FINDING HIS VOICE

THE RISE OF BLUESMAN HOZIER

Blown away

The Wild Atlantic Way

Our kind of town

ON THE COVER

Chicago, note by note

Walk on by

Get lost in Lisbon

A river runs through it

IMAGE Publications Ltd –

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOËLLE O’REILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE

Cool-hunting in Budapest

PLUS

MEET THE IRISH MUSEUM CURATORS

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Singer Hozier photographed on Dublin’s South Wall

by Sean Breithaupt and Yvette Monahan.

Welcome to our new issue! We are all take yours. Feel free to ay for this magazine aw ey. your onward journ e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine

V i si t a stor e l ik e no othe r

Ireland’s home to the very best Irish and international brands.

ALAÏA • ALEXANDER MCQUEEN • BALENCIAGA • CÉLINE • DOLCE & GABBANA • HERMÉS • LOUIS VUITTON SAINT LAURENT • STELLA MCCARTNEY • TIFFANY & CO • TOM FORD • WATERFORD CRYSTAL

DUBLIN • CORK • LIMERICK • GALWAY

WHO? Elsa Isnard and Matthew Shortt FLYING IN FROM ... Lyon MATTHEW SAYS ... “We’re venturing to Dingle. We hope to spot Fungie the dolphin and probably check out a pub or two. two.”

WHO? Charlotte and Zoe Schoeneman FLYING IN FROM ... New York CHARLOTTE SAYS ... “I can’t wait to see Howth, and in a few days we visit London, Amsterdam and Copenhagen.”

WHO? Adam and Dominique Byrne FLYING IN FROM ... Washington DOMINIQUE SAYS ... “I’m visiting my dad for two and a half months. He’s taking me to the Isle of Man to horse ride and to try archery.”

Arrivals

Lo Love, laughter ... and dolphins – ju just some of the reasons these passengers touched down in Dublin Airport’s T2.

WHO? Daniel McManus FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco DANIEL SAYS ...

“I’m here to work but I’ll squeeze in an outing to Glendalough, Trim and Cashel too.”

WORDS BY NIAMH WADE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? From left, Christopher Kellems, Mark Vukalic and Finn Stammer FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco FINN SAYS ... “Busking around Ireland is what we’ll be up to and I’m excited to surf in the west.”

WHO? Nicholas and Kacy Oinionen FLYING IN FROM ...

Heuston, USA NICHOLAS SAYS ...

“We’re on our honeymoon! We plan to tour the south west and then head back to Dublin via Galway.”

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AUGUST 2014

WHO? From left, Mylène and Ariane Billault-Chaumartin and Céline Boyer FLYING IN FROM ...

Réunion Island via Paris CÉLINE SAYS ... “My grandmother, mother and I will travel east to west over our two-week holiday.”

WHO? From left, Steve, Ella and Jennifer Finley FLYING IN FROM ... Chicago JENNIFER SAYS ... “We are heading up to Omagh for ten days to relax with my family.”

“It wasn’t the screaming that put our customers off.

It was the hair...”

...which was a little surprising, our customers having been a strikingly fashionable lot for 170 odd years. When Beatlemania hit Dublin, the four gentlemen concerned made their only appearance in Ireland in a cinema that is now part of the Arnotts building.

To say that you could probably have heard the screaming in the street at cruising altitude is only a slight exaggeration. Then, in the following weeks and months, we started seeing women bringing their men in for a little wardrobe overhaul. Tighter trousers. Sharper shoes. Shorter jackets. Skinny ties. But the hair remained more Dublin than Liverpool.

Ours not to reason why. Ours simply to offer whatever’s next, since 1843.

Photo courtesy of Independent Newspapers

B E A U T Y

H E N R Y S T.

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FA S H I O N

DUBLIN

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J E W E L L E R Y

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H O M E

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T E C H N O L O G Y

W W W. A R N O T T S . I E

BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ■

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Find out what’s on, where and when in August

The high life

Aero-nuts and nautical nerds will be on cloud nine this August 16-17 at the Chicago Air and Water Show, the largest free event of its kind in the US. Spectators will ooh and aah at daredevil pilots and their supersonic manoeuvres, including the US Navy Leap Frogs, who’ll jump out of their aircraft at 12,000ft, before a speedy 120mph descent. Watch from the waterfront, from the water itself – or, for one of the best views, from the John Hancock Observatory. chicagoairandwatershow.us

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF CITY OF CHICAGO

Check in

Check in Compiled by Lucy White, Niamh Wade, Ellen Lunney, Michelle O’Brien and Ruth Anna Coss

STAY

4 former residences

Channel lord or lady of the manor at one of these former homes …

Gatsby House, Donegal

About as far away from West Egg as you can get, this 19th century, incongruously sumptuous Jazz-Age-meetsCeltic-Tiger pile is in rural Ardara. Sleeping up to ten guests in five en-suite rooms named after film stars – Audrey Hepburn, Ava Gardner, Lauren Bacall, Grace Kelly and Cary Grant – it’s a blockbuster of a base. Two-night weekend stays €975. swell-group.co.uk

Alquimia Guest House, Cascais

Castle Hotel and Spa, New York

Hotel Villa Rivoli, Nice

This villa, some 30 kilometres from Lisbon, dates back to the 1960s but there’s nothing Austin Powers about its interiors.

Contemporary and repurposed furniture make for a pleasing frisson, and the five rooms are flanked by a private garden.

Hospitality is first class – as are the pastries at breakfast. B&B from €80 per night. +351 964 047 774; alquimiaguesthouse.com

The rooms in this former residence may be on the bijou side, but the location is great: it’s just five minutes’ walk away from the beach and famous Promenade des Anglais. The decor is quintessentially à la Français – cue busy wallpaper and long, narrow Belle Époquestyle windows – and in keeping with its fin de siècle provenance.

Rooms from €153 per night. +33 493 888 025; villa-rivoli.com

A protected landmark, Castle Hotel is the brainchild of General Howard Carroll, a businessman, playwright and publisher who, in the late 1800s, commissioned a 45-bedroom lavish pile for his family of ... five. Its original design was apparently inspired by Ireland’s Lismore Castle. Rooms from $309 per night. +1 914 631 1980; castlehotelandspa.com

FASHION DANCE

6 balletic beauties ...

Black magic

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4 5 6

HENRIK STENBERG

Eagle-eyed fans of the TV series The Killing will recognise the Police Headquarters while at Copenhagen Summer Dance, it being the setting for the tenth contemporary dance festival this August 11-17. Danish Dance Theatre are both performers and curators of this annual event where national and global dance stars share the limelight. Guest companies this year include Norwegian National Ballet and Russia’s Mariinsky Chorus, while Danish Dance Theatre will present excerpts from the futuristic Black Diamond, pictured. Free admission, although guaranteed seats can be booked in advance at DKK 60. danskdanseteater.dk

1 Celestina Scarf by Faliero Sarti, £180 at envoyofbelfast.com 2 Intrecciato Leather Clutch by Bottega Veneta, €1,500 at netaporter.com 3 Cape Dress by Soma London, £99 at somalondon.com 4 Pink Opal and Rose Gold Ring, by Irene Neuwirth, €966 at matchesfashion.com 5 Lollipop Trainer, €120 by Carvela Kurt Geiger at Brown Thomas 6 136 Sunglasses by Linda Farrow, €765 at lindafarrow.com

FAMILY

Outstanding outings The school holidays are almost over, alas – but there’s still time to make the most of them. An early start is required for Bristol International Balloon Fiesta (August 7-10; bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk) to catch the first mass ascent at 6am. However, if you forget to set the alarm there’s also an evening lift at 6pm. Over two days, 30 teams will light up their tethered balloons as night falls, to a backdrop of music and fireworks, while the RAF Typhoon Display team will roar across at 450 knots and 100ft high during the festival. Also: there’s optional weekend camping for the first time in 35 years. For a more musical-based outing, Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat – the longest running touring musical of all time – takes centre stage at Dublin’s Bord Gáis Energy Theatre (August 1223; bordgaisenergytheatre.ie). This kitsch show tells the biblical tale of Joseph, his eleven brothers and a certain coat. Another music extravaganza, attracting an annual audience of around 217,000, is the Edinburgh Military Tattoo (August 1-23; edintattoo.co.uk), which consumes Edinburgh Castle’s esplanade with pipers, pyrotechnics, brass bands, drummers, dance displays, and even 50 haka performers. Less bombastic, Toronto’s Buskerfest (August 21-24; torontobuskerfest.com) will be brimming with international sketch artists, acrobats, musicians from across the globe – including Irish illusionist Jack Wise.

of live Irish music, authentic step CRAIC-ING UP For a shindig d d, tap your way to Raglan Roa dancing and a feast of fine foo the for ntown Disney, Orlando, Irish Pub & Restaurant at Dow to September 1. raglanroad.com Great Irish Hooley, August 29

SPORT

Girl power

DAYTRIPPER

Beautiful bygones

Dig out the tailcoats and flapper dresses – the 37th Vintage Car Rally rolls into Powerscourt Estate, Co Wicklow on August 17. Enjoy a razzle-dazzle afternoon with more than 150 stunning vehicles to ogle, including Lord Powerscourt’s 1937 Ford Model Y. You may feel you’ve stepped back in time as keen visitors vie for Best Dressed Male, Female and Family accolades. Live music will fill the air between the prized motors. powerscourt.com

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AUGUST 2014

Manicures are on hold as the Women’s Rugby World Cup 2014 kicks off in Paris on August 1. Reigning champions New Zealand will battle it out alongside eleven other teams in a bid to retain the trophy. Pool stages can be seen in Marcoussis between August 1-13, with the final stages played at the new Stade Jen Bouin on August 13 and 17. To watch these highly skilled games – every bit as full-on as the men’s version – nab a ticket priced €5-€25 from rwcwomens.com.

07/14

Photographed at La Roca Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping Ž Collection of Villages *on the recommended retail price Š Kildare Village 2014

like shopping. but better.

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This summer at Kildare Village, discover the CAST exhibition - a celebration of Irish bronze sculpture - and dine alfresco at the Kildare Village Kitchen summer food pop-up, with a menu created by local Kildare artisans.

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KildareVillage.com london

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barcelona

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brussels

frankfurt

munich

suzhou, china

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ART

Partying outside the box

AL V ERY AR

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A N D R E W M I LL

Once the preserve of warehouses and fields, raves have recently infiltrated a more unlikely space – the early-morning yoga studio.

So successful was Morning Gloryville (morningloryville.com) when it launched last year in London’s Shoreditch – where else?

– it has since spawned offshoots in New York, Amsterdam, Paris, Barcelona and Zurich. Generation Xers in Dublin can now get that pre-office workout: a place where soundsystems, superfood smoothies, hulahooping, yoga and massage await from 6.30am-10.30am every first Wednesday of the month. Another intriguing prospect for a knees-up is NightLife at San Francisco’s Academy of Science this August 7 (calacademy. org). There, Ardent Mobile Cloud Platform’s Burning Man-tested project will bring rain, music and Wi-Fi to the masses in an interactive art experiment. And take a walk on the wild side in Chicago, where Brookfield Zoo is hosting an after-hours craft beer tasting event on August 9-10 (brookfieldzoo.org), while Lincoln Park Zoo resumes its Adult Nights Out series on August 8 (lpzoo.org) – lions, tigers and beers, oh my!

ER

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MUSIC

Transition vamp Sinead O’Connor’s recent transformation from Miley Cyrus nemesis to leather-clad vixen was quite the makeover. Of course, it was just for her new album artwork, and it’s unlikely Ms O’Connor pops out to get the milk dressed like that.

Still, the tireless provocateur will no doubt re-subvert her sexed-up image while on the European tour for her new record I’m Not Bossy, I’m The Boss, released August 11.

Highlight performances will surely include Dublin’s National Concert Hall on August 16, and among the more bucolic environs of Electric Picnic, August 29-31. sineadoconnor.com

DONAL MOLONEY

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Summer saviours

E RY AR

BEAUTY

AL V

ty ALL FIRED UP There’ll be a par k on Par t ber atmosphere in Dublin 4’s Her Ireland’s first August 15-17 at The Big Grill, ival and ever international barbecue fest will provide competition. Discotekken DJs tival.com a smokin’ soundtrack. biggrillfes

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MOVIE MAGIC 1 Tinted Moisturiser SPF20 by Laura Mercier, €48 at Brown Thomas 2 Lip2cheek by RMS Beauty, €33.86 at net-a-porter.com 3 Chubby Stick Cheek Colour Balm by Clinique, £17 at clinique.co.uk 4 Huile Prodigieuse by Nuxe, €26 from Aer Lingus in-flight Boutique 5 Surf and Sand Palette

by Bobbi Brown, €49.30

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AUGUST 2014

Celebrating ten years of showing classic, cult, and contemporary films in the great outdoors, Film4 Summer Screen at London’s Somerset House is back from August 7-20, with Gentleman Prefer Blondes, Wes Anderson’s The Royal Tenenbaums, and the much-talked-about modern Italian masterpiece, The Great Beauty all showing. To mark the milestone anniversary, workshops, talks and fun family events will take place too at this atmospheric courtyard event. somersethouse.org.uk

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FOOD

The spice trail Madhya Pradesh-born Sunil Ghai is the executive chef of Ireland’s Jaipur Restaurant Group (jaipur.ie), and primarily based at Ananda in Dundrum (anandarestaurant.ie). Here are Ghai’s favourite Indian eateries …

ANT H ON Y WO OD

S

GREYSTONES Chakra by Jaipur Well, as executive chef of the Jaipur Group, of course I’m going to choose one of our restaurants ...! Located in the gourmet capital of Co Wicklow, Chakra serves authentic Indian food with constantly evolving menus and an innovative use of local ingredients against a backdrop of great sea views.

Ask for Laal maas, showcasing Wicklow lamb at its best. jaipur. ie/locations/chakra

BIRMINGHAM Itihaas This is widely recognised as a pioneer of exquisite Indian cuisine in the Midlands, where a smart, contemporary-meets-traditional interior is complemented by 18th and 19th century Indian artifacts. For large groups, a must-try is the Tiffin Room, complete with a bar, library and your very own dedicated butler.

Ask for Daily special, or one of their Mumbai Street Food dishes. itihaas.co.uk

LONDON The Cinnamon Club The transformation of Westminster Library twelve years ago paved the way for a new generation of modern Indian restaurants – and has one of the most stunning dining rooms in the country. The Club’s menus and carefully matched wine list reflect an ethos of creativity. Ask for Roast saddle of venison with pickling sauce, and cocktails. cinnamonclub.com

GLASGOW Masala Twist Located in Glasgow’s West End on Byres Road, Masala Twist has a menu influenced by locations all across India, and offers alternatives to the standard Anglo-Indian curries. The team places a keen emphasis on fresh, local produce. Ask for A mix grill kebab – or, an Indian twist on a Scottish classic: mince and tatties curry, or haggis pakora. masalatwist.co.uk

time? Grab a bite from Pizza E SNACKS APPEAL Pushed for new al Dock, which has launched a Porchetta in Dublin’s Grand Can com tta. or take out. pizzaeporche Express Lunch Menu. Dine in TREND

An apple a day ...

Following the global craft beer revolution, artisan cider looks set to be the next big trend in brewing. With deep roots in Ireland, producers are marrying older cider-making traditions with exciting new ideas and technologies. Many new-wave cider makers – such as Dublin-based Orpens (orpens.ie) and Co Wicklow’s Craigie’s Cider (craigiescider. ie) – have utilised knowledge and insights gained in the wine trade to create a more considered product, while producers such as Co Down’s Tempted? (temptedcider.com), Stonewell Cider (stonewellcider. com) of Co Cork, place emphasis on Ireland’s unique conditions for cider production. Brewers are quick to point out cider’s gluten-free status, and many, such as MacIvors (macivors.com), located in the orchard capital of Ireland, Armagh, suggest interesting food pairings – try cider with spicy Asian flavours, they say.

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AUGUST 2014

TEA OFF Luxury five-star Castlemartyr Resort in Co Cork has launched its new Lady Fitzgerald Afternoon Tea, which has been styled by Peter Kelly, aka Franc. The revamped menu features treats such as buttermilk panna cotta, home-baked scones and mini sandwiches served with tea or coffee. €29 per person, booking essential at 021 421 9000. castlemartyrresort.ie

WHERE LEGEND LIVES

Book online at www.guinness storehouse.com and get 10% off adult tickets.

Guinness Storehouse®, St James’s Gate, Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800

The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and associated logos are trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2014

Visit the magical home of GUINNESS in Dublin.

Check in

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AUGUST 2014

Wish you were here Dublin-born Philip Joyce, Du left, le has been taking photos pho as a hobby for ju over three years. He just sn snapped this image while on holiday in Rome and sa “The Trevi Fountain says: absolute packed with tourists was absolutely when I arrived to get a shot. I waited for about 25 minutes to get a spot directly in the middle so I could frame it symmetrically. I used a wide-angle lens to get the entire fountain in the picture and a 64-second exposure to get the milky effect in the water and clouds.”

Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the September issue.

The technicals Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot.

The editor’s decision is final.

AUGUST 2014

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On my travels

Former South Pole adventurer Mark Pollock talks to Nancy Rockett about exploring the uncharted frontiers of curing paralysis.

Mark Pollock travels the world as a motivational speaker. Blind and partially-paralysed, he has won Commonwealth Games medals and raced six marathons in seven days. He also runs The Mark Pollock Trust, whose global running series, Life Style Sports Run in the Dark, invites thousands of people in more than 30 countries to don their running shoes and flashing armbands on November 12.

Not only does this fund his work, it invites people into the idea that our generation will be the first one to make the paralysed walk. have had three lives … Before I was blind, when I was blind, and the third after I broke my back in 2010. When I was five I lost the sight in one eye, and when I was eight years old, the retina detached in my good eye. After the operation at London’s Moorfields Eye Hospital, which saved my sight, dad took me to Hamleys toy shop and, although I’m pretty sure I couldn’t see any of it, I still remember and feel the excitement of being allowed to take my pick from the biggest toy shop in the world.

The most challenging location I ever found myself in was … My teenage bedroom in Belfast. My second life began when I was 22 and about to graduate from Trinity College Dublin, to a great job rowing for my country – my retina

I

detached again and the operation was unsuccessful.

After I went blind I couldn’t figure out how to find my front door and, if I did, and could get back into the world – what would I do? Then I got a talking computer, and my guide dog Larry and I moved back to Dublin. The first trip alone with a guide dog is the most exciting journey you will ever take.

Larry took me from my flat in Fitzwilliam Square to the top of Grafton Street and I was as high as a kite. That first short trip opened up this second life and led me to building a career as a professional speaker.

In 2002, I bought a roundthe-world ticket and spoke in Singapore, Hong Kong, Sydney, Auckland and Miami, and I haven’t looked back.

My greatest adventure was in … Antarctica. Fewer people

have been to the South Pole than have summited Everest.

It was a life changer. In 2008, on the 10th anniversary of going blind, I entered the South Pole Race: 43 days on skis in white-outs, at temperatures as low as minus 50 degrees, with my teammates Simon O’Donnell and Inge Solheim. We were moved by the spirits of the Irish explorers Tom Crean and Ernest Shackleton; their legacy got us through the psychological test of being in the wilderness while undergoing great physical hardship.

I’ve never been more inspired than … In the three months I spent in Los Angeles this year lending my paralysed body and my robotic exoskeleton to a team of scientists who are working on paralysis cures and therapies; my third life began

3 endurance races ...

1

Tough Mudder, left, in Toronto on August 16-17, is a 20-kilometre, militarystyle obstacle course; a test of strength, stamina and mental grit, while running, climbing and crawling through mud and freezing water – with the odd electric shock thrown in.

Also in Dublin, October 4-5. toughmudder.co.uk

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AUGUST 2014

2

Want to see Ireland's hotspots in just one week? The Race Around Ireland, wheeling out of Trim, Co Meath, on August 31 will do the job. This 2,150-kilometre cycling race is a qualifying event for Race Across America that spans 12 states and 18 counties in up to 12 days. racearoundireland.com

when I fell from a second-storey window and broke my back.

I’m now exploring the paralysis world, meeting its inhabitants, and trying to encourage them to collaborate in a way that will uncover the cure.

My idea of holiday heaven is … A small Irish village, maybe in West Cork or Connemara, creamy pints and the chat. My idea of holiday hell would be anywhere without Wi-Fi. To pass the time while travelling … I listen to a lot of podcasts. At the moment I’m preparing a talk for TEDx Hollywood so am listening to lots of TED talks, although all it’s doing is scaring the hell out of me!

To join the global running event go to runinthedark.org, or to contact Mark Pollock Trust go to markpollocktrust.org.

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Water is replaced by wine at refuelling stations along the Marathon du Médoc in Pauillac, close to Bordeaux, on September 13.

“Carnivals of the World” is the fancy dress theme for this 30th anniversary race, with participants carbing up at the pasta party the night before. marathondumedoc.com

Unrivalled action Unbeatable atmosphere Unmatched history Unforgettable magic

This summer don’t miss out on all the GAA action with matches every weekend.

Tickets on sale now at gaa.ie/tickets and selected SuperValu & Centra stores.

OFFICIAL GAA

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My travel notebook Belvedere Bomber Jacket

by Chess London, £295 at chesslondon.com

Dapper KEITH ANDREWS is a footballer for Ireland and Brighton FC, and the part-owner of men’s clothing company Chess London (chesslondon.com), which sells slim-fit, athletic menswear, and boasts sporting ambassadors such as Phil Jones (Manchester United), AP McCoy (champion jockey) and Jimmy Anderson (England cricketer).

BEST HOTEL IN THE WORLD? “I love the quirky décor and rooftop pool at New York’s Soho House (29-35 Ninth Avenue, +1 212 627 9800; sohohouseny.com) located in the trendy Meatpacking district.”

High Kai Jeans by Nudie Jeans, €135, at Harvey Nichols

Icons Sq Square uare Sunglasse asses by Ray-Ban, €2 €202 at Brown Tho Thomas mas, brownthomas.com br nthomas.com

BEST BAR IN THE WORLD? “Kehoe’s (9 South Anne Street, Dublin) for the best pint of Guinness and good old-school atmosphere. And then head around the corner to 37 Dawson Street, right, which is just really cool.”

Stre

Dress X – H209 Shoe by Hogan, €310 at farfetch.com

MOST STYLISH CITY? “Rome.

Amazing history, a beautiful city, and Amaz people have an effortless style.” peop BEST READ? “I just read The Chimp Paradox by Dr Steve Peters and I loved it.”

MOST DARING TRAVEL EXPERIENCE? “I once drove a campervan around Italy for three weeks, which was quite scary, especially on the very narrow roads driving to Lake Como with the cliff drops.”

MORROW WHERE TO Y N A LY F e York, it ’s on IF I COULD O ... “New T is, I E it B D as L sy U IT WO be. As bu ” ite places to e. ur er vo th fa y I’m m n of d whe very relaxe always feel

Keith’s carry-on essentials ...

1 ENERGY SNACK Natural Energy Balls, €2.80, bouncefoods.com 2 THE NOTEBOOK Large Plain Journal (set of 3) by Moleskine, €19 at Paperchase, Arnotts 3 THE MOISTURISER Fuel Energizing Moisture Treatment by Kiehls, €35.50 at Arnotts 4 THE JUMPER Cotswold Jumper by John Smedley, €180 at Brown Thomas 5 THE iPAD iPad Mini, from €299, apple.com.ie

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Liam Quirke

Managing Partner

Coast to coast A firm US presence Matheson is Ireland’s largest law firm. We are also the largest Irish law firm in the US. International companies and financial institutions are the primary focus of our firm. We were the first European law firm to open an office in Silicon Valley and are proud to represent the majority of the Fortune 100 companies, 7 of the top 10 global technology brands and more than half of the world’s 50 largest banks.

Financial Times 2012-2013 Matheson is the only Irish law firm commended by the Financial Times for innovation in corporate law, finance law and corporate strategy.

Irish Tax Firm of the Year 2013 International Tax Review

Contact Liam Quirke, Managing Partner at liam.quirke@matheson.com, John Ryan, Head of Matheson’s US Offices at john.ryan@matheson.com or your usual contact at Matheson.

Client Choice 2013 International Law Office

Dublin

London

New York

Palo Alto

www.matheson.com

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Smart Traveller|

Lisa Hughes takes a bite out of the Big Apple, and picks tables for business lunches in Berlin.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK NEW YORK

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BEST FOR BUSINESS LUNCHES IN BERLIN

As executive vice president and general manager of Disney Junior Worldwide, Nancy Kanter travels to Europe and Asia regularly – but her favourite city is her hometown of New York.

“Business lunch … Oh so many choices! On the Upper West Side one of my favourite haunts is Café Luxembourg (200 West 70th Street, +1 212 873 7411; cafeluxembourg. com). It’s been there since the early 1980s and still serves excellent, authentic French bistro fare, such as the amazing Loup de Mer. You instantly feel like you’re part of New York when you dine there – smart, stylish, in-the-know. Union Square Café (21 East 16th Street, +1 212 243 4020; unionsquarecafe. com) further downtown has the same vibe with a little more upscale panache. For great sushi it has to be Hatsuhana (17 East 48th Street, +1 212 355 3345; hatsuhana.com).

Best for business drinks … The Lambs Club (132 West 44th Street, +1 212 997 5262; thelambsclub. com) in midtown is quiet, conveniently located and you’re in a place of real theatre history.

I also love the bar at the Algonquin Hotel (59 West 44th Street, +1 212 840 6800; algonquinhotel. com) because it takes you

Getting around … Walk or take a subway. You’ll never be more than a few blocks from where you need to be.

Save the taxi fares for a good meal (or shoes!)

Tip, tip, tip … Tip often and well and it will come back to you – 20 per cent is my recommendation.

Business travel tip … back to when New York I always try to add an extra was all about smart, funny day at the beginning or conversation. end of a trip just to enjoy Best business hotel … the city. It can give you I usually stay at the Trump something personal International on Central to connect with your Park (1 Central Park business partners.

West, +1 212 299 1000; On your downtime … trumphotelcollection.com).

Snag discounted same-day By now the staff feels like tickets to the big Broadway family. The Jean-Georges musicals at the TKTS booth Vongerichten restaurant in Times Square. In the is perfect for a business Fall there are always street breakfast or a fabulous fairs throughout the city, dinner. especially downtown, es and the 26th Street Flea Fl Market on ”I can’t travel without … my Kindle.

Sundays is a must Su I always travel with it fully loaded with for fo knick-knacks. And books. It not only makes the travel even I could spend the co more worthwhile when I can catch whole who day at Eataly up on the novels I've been planning (200 Fifth Avenue, (2 to read, but it's a lifesaver when the +1 212 229 2560; eataly. person next to me on the plane is a com) co for its insanely little too chatty!” delicious coffee.” de

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LE FAUBOURG Whether you want to toast cocktails at the end of a productive day or tuck into a power lunch, Le Faubourg is the spot to do it. Located in the city’s Sofitel hotel, this business lunch favourite offers twists on French classics and the terrace on Kurfürstendamm is the perfect place for a summer brainstorming session. (41 Augsburger Strasse, +49 308 009 997 700; sofitel.com)

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MESA This Mitte District eatery in the Grand Hyatt is kitted out with large leather armchairs to sink into, an eye-catching art collection and, whether you pick lunch from a pot or the spit, the specially selected Riesling is not to be missed. There's even a wine enthusiasts' tasting menu. (2 Marlene-Dietrich-Platz, +49 302 553 1572; mesa-restaurant.de)

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MIDTOWN GRILL An American-style steakhouse in the middle of Berlin might sound odd but leave your doubts at the door – Midtown Grill has the best steaks in town. Wi-Fi is free and there’s a private garage for parking. Watch the chefs cook in the open kitchen; the homemade bread is as legendary as the Potsdamer Bloody Mary. (3 Ebertstrasse, +49 302 200 05415; midtown-grill.de)

Fabulous since 1723

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Up for the match

GAA’s hurling and football championships are drawing to a close. It’s almost too exciting for Darragh McManus. few years back, there was a TV advert with the slogan, “The GAA championships: heartbeat of the Irish summer.” That says it all, really.

Whether you’re a fan or not (and if you’re Irish, you more than likely are), the sunny season is defined to a large degree by Gaelic games.

The hurling and Gaelic football championships begin in mid-May, and from then to late September, exert a ferocious hold on the national consciousness.

It’s been this way for a centuryand-a-quarter, as the Gaelic games have become a positive, benign expression of Irish culture. Politics and religion are often touchy subjects, but hurling and football (and their female equivalents, camogie and women’s football) are all about excitement, drama, community, the volunteer spirit ... and nothing, more or less, than simple, unadulterated fun.

Towns are flooded on matchdays with colour, pageantry, music, families, stalls selling caps and chocolate, and excited kids cheering and waving their county’s flag.

(And no segregation or heavyhanded security is needed: the fans police themselves, and it’s all very good-natured, despite the boilingpoint passions.)

Of course, the GAA is based on the parish system – the local club is both the fundamental administrative unit and the spiritual core of the whole association, and club championships play out over the summer, and indeed winter too. But now shift up a gear, to the inter-county All-Ireland championships, with teams drawn from those clubs. The annual battles for hurling’s Liam McCarthy Cup and football’s Sam Maguire are the GAA’s driving force, main earner and star attraction; they deliver the most seismic collisions and

PHOTOGRAPHS GAA/SPORTSFILE

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unforgettable moments.

This year we’ve seen two significant if disparate tweaks: the introduction of black cards for cynical play in football, and Sky Sports’ move to broadcast the games to a UK audience. They’ve done a fine job so far, and it’s been a blast watching Britain’s ain’s reactions to these unfamiliar sports on Twitter. (The majority seem to think the players are crazy!).

And what of the on-field action? Last September, Dublin completed a leaguechampionship double, winning their second football title in three years.

The machine kept rolling this spring, as they added another league title, and Jim Gavin’s young team play with exuberance, style, blistering pace and the charisma of champions.

The great thing about football, though, is its unpredictability.

The Sam Maguire has only been retained once since 1990, and any one of four or five teams could very conceivably emerge victorious.

In hurling, Clare scored an unlikely – and spectacular – success last year. As in football, retaining the title is fiendishly difficult in hurling … unless you’re Kilkenny, and the Cats are moving ominously through the long grass this year.

Still, many a slip ‘tween cup and lip, and four or five counties will have serious designs on snaring the big prize.

Whoever is the last man standing, one thing’s guaranteed: watching it happen in the Croke Park will be compulsive entertainment. And watching the journey unfold before then will be every bit as good.

3 to watch at Croke Park Cr

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Clash of the ash – Cork and Clare contested last year’s hurling final, while Dublin faced Mayo in the football final, above.

September 7: All-Ireland hurling final We’ve had drawn fin finals for the last two years – after waiting 55 years since the last one, what are the odds on three-in-a-row?

2013’s Cork-Clare two-timer was epic; indeed the hurling decider, in contrast to most sports, is often the best of the season. gaa.ie

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September 14: All-Ireland camogie final The camogie championship offers different pleasures to the men’s game: more open, less crashbash, and some cracking games.

Run off on a tight schedule from early June, almost all of the nine competing counties would feel they have a shout. camogie.ie

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September 21: All-Ireland football final The blue riband event in Irish sport, in audience figures and iconic status. While recent football championships have been tremendously exciting, finals tend to be tight, tense affairs – but no less compelling for all that. Croke Park will be rocking. crokepark.ie

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A glass act

A musician and a glass artist have teamed up for the Kilkenny Arts Festival. Lauren Murphy hears why. s musical collaborations go, it certainly tips the “unusual” end of the scale. Indeed, it might even sound like the beginning of a joke: “Have you heard the one about the glass artist and the rock musician?” Nevertheless, renowned artist Róisín de Buitléar will team up with Liam Ó Maonlaí, best known for his role as lead singer of The Hothouse Flowers, for a most intriguing collaboration at this year’s Kilkenny Arts Festival.

De Buitléar has been involved in glasswork since studying craft design at the National College of Art and Design many years ago. She was almost immediately attracted to the qualities of glass in art. “It transmits light and holds light; it refracts and reflects,” she explains. “It can be hard and soft, clear and coloured, transparent and opaque; you can draw on it, draw with it, build buildings with it, sculpt it, own it, use it. The possibilities are infinite, and as a material for expression, we, as artists, are only tipping the iceberg.”

She has been particularly interested in one specific method of expression in recent times – creating glass musical instruments.

Irish Incantation/Ortha is the first time that de Buitléar has made glass

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objects which create sound, an idea first generated by her CAUTION! Fragile exhibition which is running in Tacoma, Washington at present.

“I believe that sound is an integral part of Irish culture; our language, our music, the words we use, and how we express ourselves,” she says.

“In presenting a picture of Ireland in CAUTION! Fragile, I tried to capture the essence of Ireland – the soul and rhythm that lies deep down and makes us who we are. I want to share that with others so that they can celebrate it too.”

Rather than play the instruments herself, de Buitléar has enlisted the talents of Ó Maonlaí for the one-off performance. “Liam is a multi-talented musician with an incredible soul for music,” she enthuses. “His traditional roots are close to mine, and he’s one of the best modern sean nós singers I know. He plays many instruments, and coming to my studio, he played all sorts of pieces in ways I never thought about. That’s what’s exciting: we don’t know exactly where this will lead. The performance will be organic; it will be live, things might break,” she laughs. “But there will be a new story told on that day.”

Some of the other highlights at the Kilkenny Arts Festival,

Above, musician Liam Ó Maonlaí, who will play glass musical instruments below, by artist Róisín de Buitléar.

3 musical collaborations ...

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Grant-Lee Phillips, left, and Howe Gelb at Whelan’s, Dublin; October 11 Two of the finest folk-rock musicians of the last 20 years – frontmen of Grant Lee Buffalo and Giant Sand, respectively – play the intimate confines of Whelan’s for what’s guaranteed to be a special gig. whelanslive.com

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Beyoncé and Jay Z at Stade de France, Paris; September 12-13 This is a husband-and-wife show with a difference; after all, both musicians are among the biggest in their respective fields. The rap icon and the pop idol’s collaborative On the Run tour hits Paris next month. accueil. stadefrance.com

which runs from August 8-17, are somewhat less curious, but no less compelling. They include the Irish première of Kate Tempest’s fusion of rap, song and storytelling, Everybody Down; interactive street theatre show, Funky Fidelma; performances by contemporary trad supergroup The Gloaming; art installation Outside In by Canadian artist Max Streicher; the world première of the Irish Modern Dance Theatre’s take on Shakespeare’s King Lear, and much more besides.

Liam Ó Maonlaí performs at the Set Theatre, Kilkenny on August 8. Róisín de Buitléar and Karen Donnellan’s collaborative glass exhibition Resonance runs from August 8 to October 15 in the National Craft Gallery. kilkennyarts.ie

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Nas x The Roots at Boston Calling Festival, Boston; September 7 2014 has been a big year for rapper Nasir Jones, aka Nas; his genre-defining debut Illmatic turned 20. This alliance with superb hip-hop/ nu-soul band The Roots on the main stage at Boston’s City Hall Plaza will be mind-blowing. bostoncalling.com

We’ve always travelled well.

Because taste is everything.

Nothing comes close to the unique taste of Kerrygold pure Irish Butter, made from just two ingredients. www.kerrygold.com

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Just kidding ugs and bogs, fairs and fossils, storytelling and stargazing: they’re all part of the fun for curious kids during National Heritage Week. “Family ... generations exploring heritage together” is the theme of this year’s event, from August 23-31. Historic sites open their doors for free, while out and about, whale-watching and bat walks, battle-re-enactments and medieval fairs are just a few of the activities taking place throughout the country. (See a county-bycounty guide on heritageweek.ie).

Historic cars are out in force for the big parade of Birr Vintage Week and Arts Festival (August 1-8; birrvintageweek.com) in the midland town of Co Offaly.

While you’re there, the Birr Castle Demesne (birrcastle.com), with formal gardens, a treehouse adventure area and what, in the 1840s, was the largest telescope in the world, has something for everybody in the family.

In a neighbouring county, clowning and acrobatic street shows, as well as free “Secret Garden” music concerts, complement a star-studded programme at the Kilkenny Arts Festival (August 8-17; kilkennyarts. ie). Down the road, the Castlecomer Discovery Park (056 444 0707;

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discoverypark.ie) has tree-top adventure walks (pre-booking essential), as well as boating and fishing activities.

The Scarecrow Festival (until August 4; durrowscarecrowfestival. com) in Durrow, Co Laois, is a relative newcomer to the summer scene. Mouse-racing, pig-racing and crab-fishing competitions all feature at the Rosscarbery Family Festival (August 8-17; rosscarbery.ie) in West Cork, as well as a sandcastle and sand-sculpture competition.

Children will be out with their buckets and spades too at the Duncannon Sandsculpting Festival (August 15-17; hooktourism. com) on Co Wexford’s Hook peninsula. Expect fireworks, beach games and street theatre. Kids will be impressed by the nearby lighthouse (hookheritage.ie) and can enjoy a scaring at what claims to be Ireland’s most haunted house – the desolate Loftus Hall (loftushall.ie).

Pony-mad kids love the Discover Ireland Dublin Horse Show at the RDS (August 6-10; dublinhorseshow.com) and, if you can’t make that, put the Irish National Stud in Co Kildare (irishnationalstud.ie) on your itinerary, where there are free pony rides every Wednesday and Sunday during August.

There is a special weekend

ALF HARVEY

Children are front and centre at this summer’s festivals, says Sheila Wayman.

Above, the tree-top walk at Castlecomer Discovery Park.

Below, Durrow’s Scarecrow Festival

3 more family dos ...

DOM MOORE

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Settler’s Pass at the Green Man Festival, Black Mountains, Wales, August 11-17 Families can go to the mystical music festival, left, three days early by buying a Settler’s Pass. A baby rave, sports day and sessions with children’s author Malachy Doyle are all part of the deal at the Glanusk Estate, just an hour’s drive from Cardiff. greenman.net

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Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann, Sligo; August 10-17 Child and teenage competitors outnumber adults by about three to one at the biggest traditional Irish music festival on the planet. There are plenty of spontaneous street sessions to put a jig in your step, as well as classes, concerts and contests to inspire young musicians. fleadhcheoil.ie

of gorilla activities on August 9-10 at Dublin Zoo (dublinzoo.ie). Also in the 707-hectare Phoenix Park (phoenixpark.ie), and close to the zoo, polo is free to watch on summer weekend afternoons. In addition there’s the free-to-visit, former Guinness family home of Farmleigh House (farmleigh.ie) and a visitor centre at Ashtown Castle.

Your family can even pop into the President of Ireland’s house, Áras an Uachtaráin (president. ie) in the park, for a free tour on Saturdays. But, since the tours are provided on a first come, first served basis on the day at the Phoenix Park Visitor Centre, better not to tell the children until you have the tickets in your hand.

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Midnight Circus in the Parks, Chicago, USA; weekends between August 30 and October 11 Despite the name, you don’t have to keep the children up past bedtime for this one. An international troupe sets up their big top in a different park each weekend and performances start at 2pm and 5pm, with a 7pm show in some venues. midnightcircus.net

ng board Take your lo SU RF ’S UP ux for some ea rd Bo ar to Lacanau ne tourisme-aquitaine.fr ; rs beach breake

AL HIGG IN

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THE RADIO Beach Radio by Sunnylife, £34.95 at theclementine.co.uk

THE SUN HAT Babe Sun Hat by Global, €65 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2

The life aquatic tic Get set for a fun day at the beach with some cool kit, says Ruth Anna Coss.

THE BEACH BALL Jumbo Beach Ball

by Intex £5.49 at amazon.co.uk

THE TOWEL Kids’ Whale Beach Towel, €16 at Marks & Spencer

THE GOGGLES Vista Mask by Aqua Sphere, €32 at swimkit.ie

THE BODY BOARD Junior Kickboard by Zoggs, €10 at Great Outdoors, Chatham Street, Dublin 2 and greatoutdoors.ie

THE BIKINI Gene Bandeau Bikini, €89.90 at Tommy Hilfiger, Grafton Street, Dublin 2 and at tommy.com THE SUNGLASSES Catwalk Oval Sunglasses

by Prada, €205 at Brown Thomas

THE WATERPROOF CAMERA 35mm Waterproof Camera, €12 at Boutique, in-flight store Aer Lingus

THE BEACH BAG Danika Stripe Canvas Beach Bag, €16 at boohoo.com

THE WATER GUN Nerf Super Soaker Double Drench Soaker, €17.99, at Smyths Toys and all good toy retailers

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THE BEACHSUIT Kids’ Penguin Beach Suit by Lily & Sid, €45 at Arnotts, Henry Street, Dublin 1

THE BEACH SHELTER Pop-Up Beach Shelter by Aventura, €25 at halfords.ie

THE COOL BAG Broken Heart Cool Bag

by Beau & Elliot, €34.95, at Avoca nationwide

Visit the home of a True Irish Spirit and immerse yourself in its history, craftsmanship and flavours.

• Open 7 days a week, all year round • Guided tours • Tutored tasting • Gift Shop • Restaurant GLASSES UP TO DRINKING RESPONSIBLY

Bury Quay, Tullamore, Co. Offaly, Ireland Tel: +353 (0) 57 93 25015 Email: info@tullamoredew.com www.tullamoredewvisitorcentre.com Visit

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On the fly

Fly fishing requires much practice – and lots of patience.

Frances Power learns the art at Ballynahich Castle.

t’s a soft day. The sort “Ladies are often easier to teach,” of misting day you says Cyril, “they’re maybe more only get in Ireland coordinated. They don’t horse the and the midges are line out. And they listen to you.” loving it. I’m hatted, He looks at me. “There’s maybe booted and Barboured and standing the odd exception,” he says with on the lawn of the walled garden of a twinkle.

Ballynahinch Castle in Connemara.

We continue in Beside me is Cyril Biggins, one silence for a while. of the estate ghillies and a man of “Not bad,” he finally great patience. He is teaching me admits. And with that the rudiments of fly fishing and high praise ringing in is trying me out on dry land first. my ears, we’re off to a “It’s all in the arm. Bend at the salmon beat along the elbow,” says Cyril to myself and the Ballynahinch River to try husband. “Don’t flick the wrist.” our luck for real.

I cast, the long line coils and Ballynahinch Castle twists over my head and lands in a manages a three-mile cat’s cradle on the grass. long stretch of the “You’re flicking,” he says.

Ballynahinch river I cast again. Crack and adjoining CAST goes my fishing lake, with seven OFF line like a circus salmon and four The season runs February ringmaster’s whip. sea trout beats. It’s 1 to September 30. Half-day “Flickin’,” he part of what drew fly fishing tutorials from €140 per says.

Ranjitsinhji, the rod, booking essential. Weekend Crack.

Maharaja Jam stays from €210 per room B&B; “Jaysus,” Sahib of the Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, he says to my Indian state of Connemara, 095 31006; husband, “never Nawanagar, to ballynahinch-castle.com give that woman buy the Castle back a whip.” in 1924. That and the We resort to beauty of Connemara. desperate measures. He He masterminded the tucks the end of the rod into my landscaping of the gardens and jacket sleeve and things begin to woods, and had stone fishing piers improve. and huts erected along the river. “For

I

What to pack ...

1 Classic Fly Vest by Snowbee, €62.50 at Rory’s Fishing Tackle, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 2 Classic Vacuum Flask

by Stanley, €40 at Henry’s Tackle Shop, Ballybough Road, Dublin 3 3 Dog Print Welly by Joules, £39.95 at joules.com 4 Ladies Flyte Fishing Trousers by Simms, £82.02 at farlows.co.uk 5 Pictorial Fly Box by Richard Wheatley, £45 at richard-wheatley.co.uk

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Top, ghillie Cyril Biggins casts from a fishing pier at Ballynahinch Castle. Above, he watches a beginner try his luck.

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a small river,” says Cyril, “it’s go got a great run of fish.”

But it’s not all about the th fishing here – there are miles of sandy beaches at Dog’s Bay and Gurteen to wander nder along while the Twelve Bens, Maumturks and the estate itself offer all levels of walks. The hotel will even organise a boat trip with local fisherman John Sullivan to explore Inishlacken, a now abandoned island, pull lobster pots (we found starfish, lobster and crab) and stop off for some impromptu fishing.

We hooked rod-fulls of shimmering mackerel – no skill required.

Ballynahinch Castle was bought in January this year by businessman Denis O’Brien and his wife Catherine, who had been visiting for 30 years or so. Apart from refurbishing 32 bedrooms to elegant comfort, they’ve made few changes.

You won’t find a state-of-the-art spa. The staff remains the same.

You can still order a pint or a cream tea in the fishing bar and admire the 26-pound salmon displayed in a glass case or browse the Fishing Register that dates back to 1947 and records every fish caught in these waters.

So did I catch anything?

Not a bite. Unless you count the fishing boat I hooked, a few midge bites and great lungfuls of Connemara beauty.

33 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2 +3531 6707238 WWW.THEGREENHEN.COM

OPEN 7 DAYS 2 COURSE LUNCH €17.00 3 COURSE LUNCH €19.00

EARLY BIRD MENU 2 COURSES €19.50 3 COURSES €22.00

A LA CARTE MENU EXTENSIVE WINE LIST GREAT COCKTAILS

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Shelf Life|

Bridget Hourican peeps through the keyhole at bars and eateries, and chinwags with Lynn Barber.

Behind the lines

PHOTOGRAPH BY GARETH GARDNER/TASCHEN

British journalist Lynn Barber.

RESTAURANT & BAR DESIGN by Taschen (Edited by Julius Wiedemann and Marco Rebora, KILTY €39.99hb) The international Restaurant & Bar PLEASURES Design Awards are dedicated to the design of food Haruki Murakami, Jung and beverage spaces around the world – from Chang, Kirsty Wark, Paul Michelin restaurants to pop-ups and museum Muldoon, Sara Paretsky and cafés to burger vans. Now, in this sumptuous Will Self are just some of the book, we get to view the winners of the past 750 authors descending on five years. Wallpaper editor Tony Chambers Edinburgh for the book emphasises in the intro that it’s not just the look festival, August 9-25. of the place: “Venues should successfully combine edbookfest.co.uk great service with good lighting, excellent acoustics and a comfy chair.” The judges seem to favour the modernist, internationalist look – think curves, glass, chrome, exposed brick, lavish lighting, monumental engineering, and the downright quirky, such as Morag Myerscough's The Movement Café in London, above. The Ocean Room in Sydney, with its fountain of lights, is quintessential of their tastes, while the Crescent Inn in Yorkshire provides a rare instance of an old-school establishment that caught their eye.

MOST SURPRISING ASPECT OF YOUR CAREER? The fact that I could make a good living just from asking nosy questions – my dream job.

FURTHEST YOU’VE TRAVELLED TO INTERVIEW SOMEONE? I rang [BBC journalist] John Simpson asking for an interview thinking he lived in Dublin, and he said I'll meet you at Durban airport. I said “Don't you mean Dublin?” and he said, no, he was spending Christmas with his wife's family in South Africa. So I went to Durban and yes, it was well worth it.

FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN LONDON? I live near Highgate Cemetery and I love walking around it. But most of all I love lunch at the Wolseley.

FAVOURITE PLACE TO HOLIDAY? Cornwall – sorry to be so unadventurous!

BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON A JOURNEY? Kindle has changed my life in that I can take loads of books on journeys. But I usually read something mildly humorous and undemanding, like David Sedaris. I always think holidays are a chance to read Henry James but I never do.

WHAT ARE YOU MOST LOOKING FORWARD TO DOING WHILE IN DUBLIN? I don’t know Dublin at all well so I'll go where anyone suggests. Is there a James Joyce tour – can one visit his Martello tower? Obviously I look forward to the pubs …

Lynn Barber’s A Curious Career is out now (Bloomsbury, £16.99). She'll be at Mountains to Sea Book Festival, September 13. mountainstosea.ie

Three new travel reads …

Chris Ch Stewart LAST DAYS OF THE BUS CLUB (Sort of Books, £8.99) This latest instalment inst on life in a mountainous moun Andalucian farm turns Stewart’s “El Valero” tu trilogy into a quartet. With daughter Chloe now in her last year of school, he weathers floods, cooks for TV chef Rick Stein, goes on a road trip – all with trademark charm and humour.

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Le McCarron THE ROAD Leon HEADED WEST: AMERICA COAST TO COAST (S (Summersdale, £9.99) In 20 2010, 22-year-old Northern Irishman Leon McCarron set Ir off from New York City on an overloaded bike – 10,000 kilometres later he was at the Mexican border, having overcome a tornado, a swollen river crossing, a black bear and a gun-toting alcoholic rancher …

Jus Justin Marozzi BAGHDAD, CITY OF PEACE, CITY OF BLOOD (Allen Lane, £25) Si Since 2003 English travel wri writer-historian Marozzi ha has spent long periods in Baghdad Baghdad, learn learning the language, making friends and reading his way through Arab historians to produce this fine history of the city that’s always in the news. With 47 colour plates and ten maps.

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INTERVIEW

Blues brother

Fame is coming fast for Irish singer-songwriter Andrew Hozier-Byrne, simply known as Hozier. About to release his debut album, he tells Tony Clayton-Lea how the blues music of his childhood shaped a soundtrack for life.

Photographs by Sean Breithaupt and Yvette Monaghan.

I

’m still getting the hang of it, especially the fuss in the dressing room beforehand – meeting label people, music industry people, media people. All of that takes a while to acclimatise to, because you don’t fully realise how busy you can be right up until you’re walking onto the stage. I’m new to all of this but I know the more I carry on, the more I know how much I enjoy performing.”

It is a rare thing, indeed, to meet someone on the way up who has no more a pretentious notion of themselves than a baby dozing in a buggy. But Andrew Hozier-Byrne – known simply as Hozier these days to all and sundry, and that includes US chat show hosts Ellen DeGeneres and Jimmy Fallon – is the modest sort.

Hozier is talking to Cara in Vice, a coffee shop at Dublin’s shabby-chic but super-hip Twisted Pepper venue. With a mixture of ska, dub and reggae throbbing away in the background, Hozier – an immeasurably tall, 24-year-old man who is soft-spoken, polite to a fault, sensible, smart and well-read – relates

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how he has arrived at a point where he has become so hotly tipped for mainstream success that he’s in danger of melting. Less than 18 months ago, there was no such palaver; Hozier was just Andrew Hozier-Byrne, a musician and songwriter from a small town in Co Wicklow.

He had gone through the usual mid-late teenage phase of, he says, being “feckless”.

Yet he didn’t want his parents to think he was a “waster” so, with secondary school done and dusted, he applied, and was accepted, to Trinity College Dublin to study for a BA in Music.

Engaging with music was a no-brainer.

“When I was a kid, my dad was a drummer in a blues band, so the musical influences seeped in. Some of my earliest memories are going to see him perform, and blues music was, pretty much, all that would have been playing in the house. So the influences were there from the very beginning – blues, soul, jazz albums from the likes of Muddy Waters, Howlin’ Wolf, John Lee Hooker, Billie Holiday, and then the

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RICH GILLIGAN

INTERVIEW

older, Delta blues musicians.”

Phases of wanting to be a doctor or an actor were bypassed again and again by the apparent need to be a musician. “All of the people I looked up to – and aspired to be – were singers, songwriters and musicians.

People like Nina Simone was, to me, an incredible performer; Tom Waits, also. So when I was about 15, I started writing lyrics and that brought me naturally into singing.”

There then followed the usual route for the wannabe muso: covers bands, early attempts at songwriting, trying to get under the skin of being creative. This period of time – spent between his last few years at secondary school and his first year at TCD – was all about developing slowly, steadily, surely. Despite his best intentions, and an eagerness not to let his parents down, college just wasn’t working out. “I wanted to achieve,” Hozier says in a voice that’s equal parts pleading and guilt-ridden.

“Although I lost interest towards the end of secondary school, I was always capable of achieving academically. Yes, music was at the core of what I knew I wanted to do – that’s one of the main reasons why I went to Trinity – but in my heart I knew I couldn’t stick four years of academic music study. It was obviously a huge help towards understanding music structure, and so on, but all I wanted to do was write songs.”

What happened next is one of those incredible confluences of events that make you wonder about the intricate nature of the mysteries of the known universe. Call it destiny or a fluke, but while at secondary school, Hozier performed a few songs at a summer garden party. At the same party was the mother of one of his school friends; this woman liked what she heard and, using her influence as a notable music industry figure, introduced Hozier to various other music

The voice – Hozier performs for the Other Voices recording series.

“Things started to really happen when I got into properly recording and producing myself. That’s when Take Me to Church came about.”

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industry bigwigs, to whom the affable singer sent demo recordings.

At the age of 19, however – and without a shred of false humility – Hozier felt he was being thrown into the deep end without water wings. “It was too early for me,” he reflects, “and I felt completely over my head. Simply put, I needed more time to work on my original material.”

There followed a frustrating period of time: not being in college, not having the wherewithal to record any of the songs he was working on, not having any other option, effectively, except to write songs and to learn how to get better. A couple of years passed doing little other than demos and trying things out. “You could say,” he reveals with a smile, as a rowdy slab of reggae reverberates around the room, “that progress was slow”.

Slow, perhaps, but not unproductive. As if hitting upon something new, audacious and special, Hozier says his luck began to change. “Actually,” he reconsiders, “maybe it wasn’t luck; maybe it was a more direct or effective way of working. To be honest, there was an awful lot of faffing about, and if I could go back in time I’d give myself a smack.

Things started to really happen when I got into properly recording and producing myself. That’s when ‘Take Me to Church’ came about.”

‘Take Me to Church’? Unless you’ve been living under heavy sedation for the past year, you’ll have heard this song. It’s a classic soul/blues tune that has opened up the world to Hozier, and vice versa.

It’s a tune that has enabled major record deals with Columbia in America, and with Island/Universal in UK/Europe (he remains with Rubyworks for Ireland). Cue all manner of conflicts, though – for someone who just wants to write songs and to perform on stage, how does he manage to balance creativity and commerce?

Something close to a pained expression creases Hozier’s face.

“I feel it’s still a bit early for all of this attention,” he says

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INTERVIEW

apologetically. “I’d love time to grow the sound on stage through rehearsing. That said, I’ve moved a lot faster than I would ever have thought. If I’d have had more time to write, to hone the onstage and writing skills, and so on, then that would have been perfect.” Such an ideal situation rarely works, however, and there’s a sense with this most likeable of musicians that he knows it would be wise to strike while the iron is hot. It should also be noted that Hozier’s swift rise in profile (his self-confessed “feckless” nature notwithstanding) has taken well over five years of hard graft. Is it difficult, though, to differentiate between what he wants and what the music industry people around him quite possibly need?

“That hasn’t been a huge problem,” he replies evenly. “I’m quite happy that I’m doing the work, that I’ve made some hard

decisions and am now, to an extent, trusted to deliver good material.

The first EP, the one with ‘Take Me to Church’ on it, was actually recorded in an attic – I cleaned the sound a little bit, we put it out and the success of it was ridiculous.

The live shows and the second EP, which includes ‘Sedated’, are going down very well. So, like I say, I’m trusted now, and there isn’t a lot of pressure to come up with the next ‘hit’, so to speak.”

Next month will see the release of Hozier’s highly anticipated debut album, titled simply Hozier. The next six months will see his feet touch barely anything except stages in music venues across the world. He might look slightly frazzled around the edges but he wears it well enough, and you can clearly sense that it’s all good, all positive.

His eyes light up. “Oh, yes,

there’s no doubt about that!

Opportunities are here now that, even a year ago, would have been crazy for me to think about – writing songs for people, with people, and receiving support from people I never thought would be interested in me.”

Which means, ultimately, that he doesn’t rightly know what he’ll be doing this time next year? “That’s absolutely correct.”

Hozier pauses for a few seconds, drumming his fingers in time to the rock-steady beat that’s playing on the café’s sound system.

“I know one thing, though,” he offers, looking me straight in the eye.

What’s that?

“I’ll be busy.”

Hozier’s self-titled debut album will be released on September 19, and he’s touring Europe and the US until November – see dates at hozier.com.

The Likes of Hozier …

MUSIC “I really like Emmaar, the latest album from the northern Mali band, Tinariwen.

The atmosphere they create is beautiful, and the guitar playing is incredible. I always think backcatalogue artists are worth a listen and a recent one I’ve been listening to is Sam Cooke – his gospel work is great, especially an album called The Gospel Soul of Sam Cooke. He sings in a way that is just outside of gospel and it’s really amazing.”

BOOKS “I attempted to reread James Joyce’s A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, which is a book I know I’ve referenced before in song,

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so it might be silly for me to start to read it again. And then a friend handed me The Prophet

by Khalil Gibran, which is very beautifully written work, mostly essay-length meditations on various things. I always have a few books on tour with me but I don’t always have the time to read them, so the easiest for me is just to buy some graphic novels – I’m a big fan of the work of Frank Miller.”

MOVIES “I barely have time to watch any, to be honest, but a new-ish movie I have seen is Spike Jonze’s Her, which features Joaquin Phoenix and Scarlett Johansson’s voice; it’s very sad in a beautiful

way and it accurately captures what it’s like to come out of a long-term relationship. I tend to watch box sets more than movies – I’m currently on True Detective, which is just superb.”

RESTAURANTS “Vice, at Twisted Pepper, Middle Abbey Street, Dublin – because I love good coffee. I was in Cornucopia, Wicklow Street, Dublin, the other week – I’m not vegetarian, but the food there was really good. Oh, and Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin, is great. I was recording in a studio opposite there – they do great food, and the coffee got me through!”

CITY “I love Dublin, of course, but I’ve been travelling a lot more over the past year and that has broadened my horizons, literally.

I’d like to spend more time in New York – we stayed in the Lower East Side and that was very cool. I was in Budapest in the winter – freezing! – but it’s a beautiful city, and I’d be into going there when it’s warmer.

I love San Francisco – every house seems to be painted a different colour. Geometrically, it’s a very different city from anywhere else I’ve been.

And the weather is always good. One city on my wish list to visit is New Orleans – I’m sure I’ll get there one day.”

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Labours of

LOVE

What happens when an obsession becomes a business?

Lucy White quizzes six museum curators and custodians about their treasures. Photographs by Steve Ryan.

I

’d love to figure out how to use scent in some way in the museum ... how do you exhibit the smell of the Guinness Brewery, the whiff of a 77 Nitelink? This is the kind of thing that keeps me awake at night ...”

This is what happens when you become a curator. Simon O’Connor, of the Little Museum of Dublin (page 44), knows only too well the allconsuming, delightful blur between work and home life. Likewise, passion projects have a habit of consuming families. “One morning I got a call to say that the Japanese ambassador wanted to see the lace,” says Nora Finnegan of Kenmare Lace and Design Centre (page 46). “I was off driving my husband’s minibus - he runs a cab hire business - while twelve-year-old Shane, ten-year-old Denis and nine-year-old Emer opened up the shop and very competently did the demo, including the history of the lace ...”

Ireland is rich with museums, which, as is often not the case abroad, are free to the public. But for every well-known, State-funded institution there is a boutique collection that becomes a word-of-mouth hit.

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However our interviewees’ collections, or skills, came to be public property, all share a passion that defies commerce.

“I couldn’t be doing this for the money!” chuckles John O’Reilly, owner of the Shackleton Endurance Exhibition (page 48), who has a “day job” in finance. Similarly, Iris and Des Fox juggle their butterfly farm with a family engineering business (page 50), while The Ewe Experience is an all-year-round working sheep farm (opposite).

“It just covers itself,” explains Pat Herbert, of Ye Olde Hurdy Gurdy Museum of Vintage Radio (page 52).

“Theatre and film companies rent old TVs and radios, which helps with the upkeep. We got a good gig last year - the Broadcasting Corporation of Ireland wanted us to do a pop-up museum on Culture Night, and we got a great response.

“But I’ve a handicapped boy who goes to St Michael’s House and a grandson who has leukaemia so we split our fee between their hospices.

Everybody is voluntary here, it’s a labour of love. Everyone gets a kick out of being here.”

Sheena Wood

The Ewe Experience What’s in a name? A whole lot, discovered artist Sheena Wood when trying to decide on a moniker for her sheep farm/sculpture experience in Glengarriff, Co Cork. “We tried variations: ‘Retreat’ (we had a lot of nuns), ‘Centre’ (ambiguous), ‘Garden’ (it was so much more) and ‘Sculpture’ (people imagined trimmed lawns for the arty-farty) ...” she remembers.

Eventually, on the advice of impressed visitors, she and her husband Kurt Lyndorff, decided on “Experience” as it “seemed to genuinely cover their wide-eyed response”.

The idea for “The Ewe” was conceived in Costa Rica during the early 1990s, where Lyndorff was working as a war correspondent.

“With young children, and tiring of life on the hoof – and political conflict – we wanted to return home to Europe and weave some of our experiences into an interactive project that combined art, writing, nature, and an innovative approach to education.”

The results of which are in the respectfully embellished natural spaces that are at once playful and meditative; the slumbering woman made of sorrel, the fern labyrinth, the lizard pine cones, none of which “will ever be finished – they are to grow old disgracefully”. They also built a sustainable home on site from scratch.

However, Wood disputes the notion that they are more creators than curators. “In many ways we are curators. The Ewe is an interpretive centre, a creative escape, a classroom, a games rooms and a museum – just with no roof. The ‘exhibits’ lurk seen and unseen, and our aim is to ignite inquiry and imagination.”

Open daily from 10am-6pm during the summer; autumn visits by appointment, theewe.com

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PEOPLE

Simon O’Connor

Little Museum of Dublin

“Much of what we do in the museum reflects my own interests so there’s quite a bit of unusual paraphernalia in my house. I dream of some day living in a white minimalist apartment that vacuums itself. There is definitely an ascetic side to me that doesn’t get much of a look in nowadays.”

Simon O’Connor, curator at the Little Museum of Dublin, is considering his life/work balance. But when your “office” is so fascinatingly festooned with curiosities, who wouldn’t take their work home?

In 2011, ex-graphic designer O’Connor and his former Dubliner magazine comrade, Trevor White, launched the museum with a public appeal for 20th-century artefacts. One antique music stand from which JFK addressed the Houses of Oireachtas in 1963, some gold-plated Monster Munch crisps by artist Caroline McCarthy and 5,000 other historic objects later, an idiosyncratic collection was born.

“We’ve just received a mechanical music box from the early 20th century, which is going to blow kids’ minds,” he adds. “Kids love tactility and the unfamiliar – it’s one reason why we don’t have digital elements in the main exhibition. They grow up with computers, but in a museum they’d sooner try on an old fireman’s hat.”

O’Connor admits he first thought White’s idea to open such a space was “bonkers”. But all their hard work has paid off – the museum has proved a word-of-mouth hit for Dubliners and tourists alike. “It has been a joy to see the project develop from a tiny desk to this hugely popular visitor attraction and educational space.”

Open Monday to Sunday from 9.30am5pm (9.30am-8pm on Thursdays), littlemuseum.ie

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Nora Finnegan Kenmare Lace and Design Centre

From the finest gold embroidery to old linen thread no thicker than a hair from one’s head, Kenmare Lace and Design Centre is rich with exquisite designs. Nora Finnegan is not only the custodian but also the teacher of this hallowed art form that began in 1861 with the Poor Clare nuns who came to Kenmare to teach lacemaking to impoverished locals. The nuns’ expertise developed into fine needlepoint lace that became highly prized outside Ireland – including by Queen Victoria. The market declined after the Second World War but was later revived in the 1990s – thanks to Sister Frances approaching Finnegan with an offer she couldn’t refuse.

“I can’t say I made the decision – I think it was made for me,” she muses on being passed the baton to teach Kenmare lacemaking. “Sister Frances was long retired from teaching, so I could see why she did not want to take on the task. By entrusting their heritage to my care, the sisters placed their confidence in me. I felt it was an honour I could not easily reject.”

Cork-born, Finnegan was working as an art teacher in Kenmare when she discovered the town’s lacemaking heritage. It’s now a cottage industry: she has six staff making Kenmare Lace from home, a permanent exhibition in the design centre, runs weekly workshops and has the next Kenmare Lace Festival slated for March 2015.

“Kenmare Lace is very detailed; it can take up to 30 hours to make one square inch,” explains Finnegan.

“Each piece is unique and made from a design painted by the Poor Clare nuns. They really are works of art in their own right.”

Contact 064 664 2636 for daily opening hours, kenmarelace.ie

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AUGUST 2014

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Make it your business to visit Pacino’s,

Dublin’s premier Restaurant, Bar and Venue Voted Best Italian Restaurant by Hot Press Magazine two years in a row and resident chef Luca Mazza voted the Best Italian Chef in Ireland for the last two years by Italian Food Critic Paolo Tullio you will not get better cuisine in the country.

Using the best of Irish and Italian produce Pacino’s is a prominent member of “Good Food Ireland”, an association that features the best in Irish food producers and providers.

Pacino’s now provides entertainment on both Friday and Saturday nights, through it’s Pacino’s At Night Calendar including the best resident radio DJ’s and International Acts playing in the Cellar Venue weekly.

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AUGUST 2014

John O’Reilly

Shackleton Endurance Exhibition Around Christmas last year, a crew of researchers was airlifted out of a tourist ship in Antarctica where it was stranded for a week. John O’Reilly had to laugh. One hundred years ago, Ernest Shackleton and his 28 men spent nine months drifting on a boat, followed by five months camped on the ice until the vessel fell apart. They then spent another four months on an island waiting to be rescued.

“In those days they had no option but to wait and be patient. It’s extraordinary.”

O’Reilly is the proud owner of the Shackleton Endurance Exhibition in Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, which recounts the Irish explorer’s blighted expedition to the Antarctic. The collection was acquired when its former custodian, New York’s American Museum of Natural History, was about to put it into storage.

The exhibit will go on tour later this year as part of centenary celebrations (191417). But O’Reilly plans for it to return to permanent accommodation in tribute to the brave Irishmen pivotal to the expedition: Shackleton, Tom Crean and Tim McCarthy.

The acquisition is a natural extension of O’Reilly’s sailing hobby, but was no less “a leap of faith”, having come from a background in finance (which remains his “day job”). He was concerned that his target audience would be “fiftysomething men”, however, the display has received 21,000 visitors of every age, gender and nationality since opening in 2012.

This ardent interest also inspired him to launch a series of motivational courses based on Shackleton’s leadership skills. “He was great at people management, and also of easily letting go of the past. And, of course – he had perseverance.”

Open daily from 11am-6pm, shackletonexhibition.com

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PEOPLE

Iris Fox

Straffan Butterfly Farm There are butterfly collectors – and there are butterfly farmers. Iris and Des Fox are both and have hosted a seasonal exhibition in Co Kildare for nearly 30 years. “Our annual exhibition is a hobby and as it’s based at our house, it’s economical to run,” he explains, evoking images of Painted Ladies fluttering around the living room. “We don’t have many butterflies flying after September so the main work then is general maintenance, and feeding all the insects and reptiles that are part of our education programme.

Also, many of the plants in the butterfly house need to be replaced out of season. There’s plenty to do.”

Des’s interest in butterflies stems from the age of ten, when an aunt brought him back a tropical butterfly in a frame from London. “I was fascinated by the amazing colours,” he says. Later, this aunt and his mum would take him “all over Ireland” to look at these mesmerising creatures.

“Now my wife does most of the work for the exhibition,” he admits, proving that collecting is contagious.

The Straffan Butterfly Exhibition runs every June to August and, while a typical workday for most people starts with meetings or emails, Iris’s begins by “making sure all emerging butterflies are okay, and releasing them as soon as they are ready to fly,” she says. And what are the odds of a visitor of seeing a “new” butterfly hatch? High, apparently – most mornings “about 20 butterflies emerge”, according to Iris.

Even its moths are impressive.

“A moth the size of a dinner plate is a new experience for most people, and amazingly they only live up to four days,” she says. Catch them while you can.

The Butterfly Farm will be open daily untill August 31 from 11am–5.30pm, straffanbutterflyfarm.com

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AUGUST 2014

A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012

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ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

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ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for €5 each way.

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Pat Herbert

Ye Olde Hurdy Gurdy Museum of Vintage Radio “This artificial light lit up the place – it looked like fairyland because the whole countryside was in darkness, there was no electricity. This was pure magic to me; I was ten at the time.

I think that stayed with me for the rest of my life. I always tell people that it damaged my brain ...”

Pat Herbert is reminiscing about his first, and seminal, encounter with the wireless in 1947, which mysteriously beamed the All-Ireland finals live from New York into a small rural cottage in Crossmolina, Co Mayo. This piqued an interest so passionate and a collection so large that in 2004 he set up the Ye Olde Hurdy Gurdy Museum in Dublin’s Howth – for storage reasons as much as sharing ones. Fortunately, he had an understanding wife.

“Believe it or not my late wife bought the first radio in the collection in 1959, before we were married.” “Was it her or the radio you fancied first?” larks Michael Walsh, one of his volunteers.

The Martello tower museum – site of the first communications cable from Ireland to Wales in 1852 – teems with heirlooms, from the historic (Edison phonograph) to the kitsch (1960s radio-cum-handbags) via beautiful old gramophones, whose crackly 78 rpm records still sound sublime.

“On holidays I’d be out at six o’clock in the morning, shopping for a new radio,” Herbert recounts. “I’d get back for breakfast, the family didn’t miss me at all. It’s amazing how a collection comes together.”

Open daily from 11am-4pm till October 31. For winter opening hours hurdygurdyradiomuseum.wordpress.com

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The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery

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onveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

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ROAD TRIP | WILD ATLANTIC WAY

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AUGUST 2014

THE WILD WEST

THE SEQUEL

Pól Ó Conghaile continues his journey along the Wild Atlantic Way, venturing from Loop Head to Mizen Head – Ireland’s most southwesterly point. Photographs by Al Higgins.

Barley Cove beach on the Mizen Peninsula, Co Cork. The Ballyvogue River flows into the lagoon behind the dunes.

AUGUST 2014

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ROAD TRIP | WILD ATLANTIC WAY

’m standing at Ireland’s most southwesterly tip, hanging on for dear life. The ticket lady at Mizen Head Signal Station in Goleen, West Cork (028 35 225; mizenhead.net), did warn me (“It’s fairly windy down on the bridge,” she said). Gobs of froth are flung up from the ocean, falling from the sky like snowflakes. Some 45 metres below the arched bridge connecting to the signal station, I see black shapes in the water. They are seals, sheltering from the surf.

So far, so blustery. But nothing prepares me for the forces of nature battering the lighthouse itself.

There, the wind punches me in the face, blowing the camera strap clean off my neck. Breakers are “shredded into rags”, as Seamus Heaney described it in his poem, The Peninsula. The signal station reminds me of a hanging monastery you might see in Tibet or Bhutan, and the waves are deafening.

I guess the Wild Atlantic Way isn’t named for its mellowness.

I’ve been travelling the world’s longest defined coastal route for several days. The full trail stretches 2,500km from Kinsale to the Inishowen Peninsula but, like many tourists, I’ve dipped in and out rather than doing the whole thing.

On this trip though, I’m picking through the peninsulas of Clare, Kerry and West Cork, and loving every minute of it. When I get back to my car, my face tastes of salt.

My journey begins, several days earlier, in Kilkee, Co Clare.

Charlotte Brontë spent part of her honeymoon in this seaside resort and Ché Guevara visited in 1961, signing into the Strand Guesthouse (065 905 6177; thestrandkilkee.com) under a pseudonym. This winter Kilkee took a battering from the “Big Sea”, as locals call it, but the ocean gives as well as takes, and I find it shaping up optimistically for another season.

Cillian Murphy beckons to me from Murphy Black’s restaurant.

He’s a former fishing skipper who

I

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Charlotte Brontë spent part of her honeymoon here and Ché Guevara visited in 1961, signing into his guesthouse under a false name.

The beach at Kilkee has recovered from the battering it took during last winter’s storms.

runs Bog Road Bike Tours (086 278 0161; bogroadbiketours.com) and we’d arranged to cycle across the Loop Head Peninsula together.

Taking the 170-year-old “New” Road along the coast, Cillian told me the story of the Intrinsic, a sailing vessel that was wrecked offshore in 1836. As the locals prayed on the cliffs, a seagull is said to have plucked a white glove from the water and dropped it into their midst.

Further down the road, we pause to inspect a tiny stream that ran off a cliff, hung in mid-air, and was blown back into the sky like a geyser. “It’s a water-up, as opposed to a waterfall,” he deadpans. An hour and a half later, we pedal ruddy-cheeked into Carrigaholt, stopping for lunch at The Long Dock (West Street, Carrigaholt, 065 905 8106; thelongdock.com). A feast of chowder, fish pie, oysters

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ROAD TRIP | WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Paddy Sheehan operates the spectacular cable car between Dursey Island and Cork’s Beara Peninsula.

and crab claws – much of it fresh from local boats – is demolished.

The stories come thick and fast.

Cows were once marched through the front door to the fields out back, I learn. That was back when pubs bottled their own stout. A lady called Mrs Hehir ran The Long Dock in those days, aerating her brews with a bicycle pump kept behind the bar.

The diversity of experiences along the Wild Atlantic Way is breathtaking. Think of Ireland’s only cable car, dangling from a steel cable over a sound connecting Dursey Island to the Beara Peninsula. Think of the Shannon Estuary, which I cross with Shannon Ferries (065 905 3124; shannonferries.com), keeping my eyes peeled for dolphins. Think of St Finian’s Bay on the Ring of Kerry, where I stumble across the last thing I expect to find within sight of the Skelligs: a chocolate factory. Even Willy Wonka

Eat at ...

would be wowed by this. Skelligs Chocolate (Ballinskelligs, 066 947 9119; skelligschocolate.com) comes with a tasting counter, a café serving hot chocolate flavoured with chilli and cinnamon, and an openplan factory floor. Sweet smells are everywhere, as are playful quotes: “Chocolate has been widely used for medicinal purposes, including treating broken hearts…” Yum! At Glengarriff, in West Cork, another experience beckons as I board the Harbour Queen for a short ferry trip to Garnish Island (027 63116; harbourqueenferry. com). The sheltered climate here led its owners to create a formal garden in Edwardian times, and I find its 15 hectares exploding with rhododendron and azalea. A Martello tower, Grecian temple and an Italian pavilion and casita are just some of the architectural curiosities.

There’s fauna to look out for too.

As the Harbour Queen crosses the bay, its captain points out several

Opposite, clockwise from top left, artisan fare at Mannings Emporium, Ballylickey, Co Cork; a wild pony on the Kerry hills; the Skelligs Chocolate factory in Ballinskelligs, Co Kerry; chef Martin Hallissey of Packie’s restaurant, Kenmare, Co Kerry; the “hanging gardens” of Loop Head; Imelda Lynch of The Long Dock restaurant, Carrigaholt, Co Cork; the winding roads of the Beara Peninsula; cycle guide Cillian Murphy; the Harbour Queen ferry to Cork’s Garnish Island.

night beneath the constellations NIGHTS UNDER THE STARS Spend a summer amping.ie), an eco-campsite at Pure Camping in Loop Head (065 905 7953; purec quinna (064 664 2888; offering bell tents and yoga, or the upscale Drom es the boat out with dromquinnamanor.com) in Kenmare, which push er every morning.

Indian safari tents, king-size beds and a fresh hamp 58 |

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SEAFOOD Tony and Imelda Lynch’s pub The Long Dock has been anchoring Carrigaholt for generations. Though it once served as the local grocery and draper, today the focus is firmly on food, drink and hospitality – with fish sourced a stone’s throw from the front door (the crab claws and fish pie are excellent). A cosy fire, charming service and a little deli make it the perfect pit-stop on Loop Head. (Carrigaholt, Co Clare, 065 905 8106; thelongdock.com) ARTISAN If you didn’t know Manning’s Emporium, you’d drive right past. It’s worth getting to know, however, because once you do, you’ll become a regular. Both a gourmet shop selling the best of West Cork produce and a café serving selections of same (think Hegarty’s or Milleen’s farmhouse cheese, or Gubbeen chorizo), it’s one of the foodie finds of the Wild Atlantic Way. (Ballylickey, Co Cork, 027 50 456; manningsemporium.ie) HOMELY Packie’s is one of those places that make you feel instantly at home. Bistro tables, beech trees on the counter, supergenuine staff and a menu that works wonders with local produce (don’t miss the lobster and citrus salad) all combine to make Packie’s the catch of Kenmare. (35 Henry Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry, 064 664 1508)

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ROAD TRIP | WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Sleep by the sea ...

It’s amazing what you’ll learn along the Wild Atlantic Way. Did you know Ché Guevara stayed in Kilkee in 1961, signing a pseudonym in the guestbook at the Strand Guesthouse? It’s still there today, along with a snappy bistro and several rooms overlooking the Atlantic. Rooms from €92. (Kilkee, Co Clare, 065 905 6177; thestrandkilkee.com) “Really Nice Rooms.” That’s what it says on the sandwich board outside Kenmare’s Brook Lane Hotel and, after spending a night there, I certainly wouldn’t argue. A boutique-style building offers contemporary rooms, Casey’s bar and restaurant, and impeccably friendly staff … owner Una Brennan even went so far as to drop me into town in her car. Rooms from €99.

(Kenmare, Co Kerry, 064 664 2077; brooklanehotel.com) Set bang in the middle of Kinsale, start (or finish) point of the Wild Atlantic Way, the Blue Haven Collection offers townhouse accommodation, a boutique hotel, several cafés and a wine bar in a spread of Georgian buildings. A solid base from which to explore, with doubles from €90. (Pearse Street, Kinsale, Co Cork, 021 477 2209; bluehavencollection.com)

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Stay with Ché – left, John Redmond of the Strand Guesthouse. Ché Guevara checked in here in 1961.

Below, a Greekstyle folly on Garnish Island.

seals lolling on the rocks. High up in a tree, we even spot a white-tailed sea eagle watching over its nest.

Before moving on, he points out a nearby house owned by Hollywood legend Maureen O’Hara.

“Does she still live there?” someone asks. “Still does. And she still has red hair.” I love these stories of Wild Atlantic Women.

Maureen O’Hara, Mrs Hehir, Grace O’Malley, the Pirate Queen.

Back in Killorglin, a colourful gateway to the Ring of Kerry, I step into the council offices to see Pauline Bewick’s Seven Ages, an exhibition of paintings tracing the stages of a woman’s life. Bewick was born in Northumberland but her mother took her and her sister to Kenmare in the 1930s, writing a book about the experience. Its title seems brilliantly apt: A Wild Taste.

Further along, I join Michael Crawley and Kevin Kennedy of Mór Active (086 389 0171; moractive.com) for a unique adventure. I’ve been cycling, surfing, hiking and stand-up paddling along the Wild Atlantic Way, but “coasteering” was new to me. Picking me up in Cahersiveen, Michael explains the concept.

“It’s probably the most adrenaline-stoking sport in Ireland, because it incorporates everything ... rock climbing, jumping, swimming, and anyone can do it. How would you describe it in one word? A rush. There are no obligations, but for most people it’s like climbing their Everest. The smile on their faces is the thing.”

Squeezing into wetsuits, helmets, buoyancy vests and sneakers, we jump straight into the Atlantic,

ROAD TRIP | WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Wild Atlantic wonders ...

THE SKELLIGS Skellig Michael is Ireland’s Machu Picchu, an offshore shard crowned by a breathtaking ancient monastic settlement. heritageireland.ie DURSEY ISLAND Just a handful of souls live here, connected to Cork’s Beara Peninsula

by Ireland’s only cable car. Fancy joining them? bearatourism.com KERRY DARK SKY RESERVE Ireland’s first international dark sky reserve proves the Ring of Kerry is just as beautiful with the lights switched off. kerrydarksky.com

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shouting and whooping as the water flushes through our suits. From there, we set off on a wacky, coastal, obstacle course, swimming through sea arches, scrambling up rocks and jumping from a succession of ledges culminating in “El Capitan”, an eight-metre monster overlooking a jagged inlet.

By now I’ve learned that thinking is the enemy. I leap straight off.

The expletives spraying out of my mouth would curdle milk, so I won’t print them here. Suffice to say, Michael was right about the smile on my face. “It’s amazing the stuff

in Ireland that we don’t even know about,” he says.

Anne and Graham Ferguson, who run Ocean Addicts (087 274 4992; oceanaddicts.ie) from their liveaboard boat outside Kinsale, share his enthusiasm. The couple offer dive and snorkel trips off the south coast, with daytrips ranging from the wreck of the Aud in Cork Harbour to the blennies (fishes) peeking out from rocks off Oysterhaven. People don’t expect the variety of life they encounter in Irish seas, Anne says.

“I’m not a marine biologist. I just love the water.”

Back on Loop Head, a pheasant scurries away as I set off for a guided walk with Laura Foley of The Long Way Round (086 409 9624; thelongwayround.ie). We duck into an old graveyard cloaked in hawthorn near Kilcredaun, where she brushes the dirt off the 19th-century tomb of a royal engineer before pointing out church ruins, a Napoleonic battery and a coastal lookout point ... all in a two-hour loop.

“This particular walk is on private land,” she says. “But I text the farmer in the morning and he tells me what fields are occupied.”

Mizen Head, Ireland’s most southwesterly point, offers stunning views over the Atlantic.

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Occupied by what? “By cows.”

Loop Head narrows as we come to the end of the peninsula, parking for a walk around a lighthouse that reminds me of Mizen Head. With the Shannon estuary on one side, the wide-open ocean on the other, and the grass dotted with lollipops of sea pink flowers, I am not surprised to hear Laura’s husband proposed to her at this very spot.

He spelled the words out in stones beneath the lighthouse.

On our way back, she leads me down a secret path onto a sheltered cliff ledge known as the Hanging Gardens. Back in Victorian times, a gentleman called Henry Keane used this spot as his personal flower garden. Today, Laura has stashed a basket full of scones, jam, cream and tea… 30 metres above the thrashing surf.

It’s a picnic at the edge of the earth.

Follow Pól @poloconghaile For more information on activities and accommodation, see discoverireland.ie

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ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA McAREE

ROAD TRIP | WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Loop Head has the Shannon estuary to one side and the wide, open sea to the other, pictured here. Above left, Anne and Graham Ferguson of dive company Ocean Addicts.

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They all helped bring new jobs to Ireland. We want to say thank you on behalf of the people of Ireland.

Their support means almost 1,000 families in communities across Ireland have a bright future.

As you boarded your flight, you may have noticed ConnectIreland teams at Dublin, Cork and Shannon airports. This simply would not be possible were it not for DAA, whose unwavering support helps us reach out to our people and ask them “Do you know an expanding company?”

As many as 300 people per week become connectors through this DAA & Shannon Airport Authority assistance. Aer Lingus has always been a fantastic ambassador for Ireland. Cabin Crew kindly make a ConnectIreland announcement on many of their flights and we are very grateful to them for helping to attract companies and jobs to Ireland.

“I read about ConnectIreland shortly after it was established in a newspaper article announcing the creation of a number of new jobs which originated from a ‘connector’. The following week I met with Mike Culhane, the CEO at Pepper Australia, who was planning expansion into Europe.

Domhnaill O’Sullivan’s conversation with an overseas investor has resulted in 100 new jobs for Shannon and Dublin, a life-changing connection which has transformed the lives of the new employees, their families and wider communities in the West of Ireland.

“The ConnectIreland concept is simple and it works. All I did was pass on some information to an investor, but I’m delighted that it

“With his approval I got in touch with ConnectIreland, gave them a background on Pepper and their vision together with Mike’s contact details. ConnectIreland got in immediate contact with him and within 48 hours, they were meeting in Dublin and it just took off from there”.

“The speed at which ConnectIreland reacted was efficient and effective, and I know

that Pepper were grateful for the support and advice they received from the ConnectIreland team who also worked closely with IDA Ireland which facilitated this expansion. It was a very simple process.

“The information campaigns at Dublin, Cork and Shannon airports are impressive, and a very effective way to reach out to a captive, mobile and global audience. I’m delighted things worked out for Pepper and I would have no hesitation in recommending ConnectIreland as a platform for people to encourage more international investors to choose Ireland. In fact, I would encourage it.”

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And as for Domhnaill, he’s encouraging others to have similar conversations, log on, join in and play their part.

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MUSIC | CHICAGO

Trees create a splash of colour on North Wabash Avenue in downtown Chicago.

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Sweet Home Chicago From blues to rap, the Windy City has inspired much of American music. Now, each neighbourhood has a distinct musical feel, says Niall Byrne. Photographs by Mark Duggan.

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MUSIC | CHICAGO

n 1936, Robert Johnson, one of the most famous and near-mythical blues players, recorded the blues standard Sweet Home Chicago, a song that may not be about the Mid-Western Illinois metropolis at all. Interpretations of the song vary. Some suggest Chicago was an aspirational place for Johnson, as it was for many migrant black workers who travelled from the poverty-stricken South in search of work during the Great Depression.

Others have suggested Johnson’s geographical knowledge was poor.

Either way, Johnson may have never visited what has become the third biggest city in the US – but his music certainly has. Chicago changed blues music forever when Southern workers, who brought it with them, were forced to amplify and electrify the acoustic blues of Louisiana and the Mississippi Delta. A loud and bustling cityscape meant more noise, which forced the blues to become more band-orientated in order to be heard in the din. Muddy Waters, Howlin’ Wolf, Sonny Boy Williamson and Willie Dixon were among the first wave of Chicago blues performers.

At the same time, Chicago became the centre of the jazz world for a brief

MATTHEW THOMPSON

I

Top, from left, Delmark Records owner Bob Koester and musicians Lurrie Bell and Dave Specter. Above, Cara’s Niall Byrne.

Left, a mural adorns a wall in Wicker Park.

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time, after it too was brought up ti from the Dixieland South. New fr Orleans-born trumpeter and Orl singing legend Louis Armstrong si was wa one of many to make Chicago his home.

Ch There aren’t many living Chicagoans who can claim to Ch have as much an influence on the city’s recorded music history as Bob Koester who, in 1953, founded Delmark Records, the oldest blues and jazz record label in the USA. “I sort of figured I liked the record business,” the 82-year-old Koester chuckles, sitting in his paperworkstacked office in the label HQ on

Chicago’s north side.

“Delmark has recorded every major blues act since they started,” says current Delmark recording guitarist Lurrie Bell. “All the old timers.” The identity of the label is defined by the Chicago way of life.

“We’ve got more time, we pay less rent and we’re less competitive,” says Koester of his adopted hometown, which he moved to from St Louis in 1958. Indeed, Delmark, which has remained fiercely independent, has released some of the most important blues recordings, including ones by Junior Wells, Buddy Guy, Magic

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Sam, Speckled Red and Eddie C Campbell.

Koester is also an owner of the world’s largest jazz and blues record store Jazz Record Mart (27 East Illinois, River North; jazzmart.com), since 1959. At the store downtown, the shop’s racks are teeming with thousands of pieces of recorded music, from brand new plasticwrapped CD releases to dusty 78 rpm records without sleeves.

Nearby, in the city’s “front yard” of Grant Park, the Chicago Blues Festival (bit.ly/cbfestival) which happens in June, upholds Chicago’s blues reputation with more than 500,000 people expected to attend every year over three days. In nearby Millennium Park, the Frank Gehry-designed Jay Pritzker Pavilion (201 East Randolph Street) is a must-visit, downtown place for architecture as well as open-air music concerts. Its peeled-back, steel ribbon structure and lines of speakers mounted on a trellis over a lawn, means a capacity of 11,000 people could all experience state-of-the-art sound no matter where they are standing.

Generally though, if it’s live music you seek, it’s better to be literally out of The Loop, the name given to Chicago’s commercial downtown district. Music venues and clubs are dominant in the 72 |

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north and west of the city in places such as Wicker Park, Logan Square, Lincoln Park and Lake View.

For more blues immersion, hit the North side. Kingston Mines (2548 North GETTING Halsted Street; AROUND kingstonmines.com), The Chicago Transport is a club that stays Authority (CTA) operates the open ’til 4am six city’s train and bus network – a nights a week (5am one-day Unlimited Ride Pass costs on Saturday) where $10. However, much more fun: the mainstays of the Chicago Water Taxi, which the Chicago scene combines transportation and are often joined by sightseeing, day passes from Delmark artists. $11. chicagowatertaxi.

On the night com I visit, Lurrie Bell hops on-stage to play harmonica with one band, while, in a side-room, Demetria Taylor belts out a song called “Bluesy Woman” with another.

For a personal recommendation from Koester, try the B.L.U.E.S. Bar (2519 North Halsted; chicagobluesbar.com), just up the road from Kingston Mines, or if you have to stay downtown, Buddy Guy’s Legends (700 South Wabash Ave; buddyguy.com) is a fine choice.

River North is also a good place to start for jazz. Andy’s Jazz Club (11 East Hubbard Street; andysjazzclub.com) is in the area, while the acoustic-focused Jazz Showcase (806 South Plymouth Court; jazzshowcase. com) is downtown and closer to the majority of the hotels. The most famous jazz club of all, The Green Mill (4802 North Broadway Street; greenmilljazz.com) takes a little longer to get to as it’s ten kilometres north of The Loop, but the club, once owned by Al Capone, is a must-visit. The Green Mill is a Boardwalk Empire-style, red-hued club with booths and table service, and at night there is a charmingly archaic experience.

If you’re lucky, you’ll get to sit in the same booth as the man himself, except you won’t have to keep an eye out for surprise visits from police, or use the network of tunnels underneath for a truly gangster escape.

City slickers – opposite, store owner Scott Starbuck takes his dogs for a walk in Wicker Park. Clockwise from top left, hanging out at Millennium Park; music fan Gina Fiteh; DJ Mike Dearborn at Lincoln Park; musician Jeanine O’Toole; a retro mural at Wicker Park; vinyl records for sale at Gramaphone Records store; Crown Fountain at Millennium Park; Anthony Musiala of Minty Fresh Records; locals cycle through Millennium Park.

Stay at …

SPLURGE In the ultramodern four-star Dana Hotel & Spa, the rooms feel more like boutique apartment than regular dwellings.

Floor-to-ceiling windows mean there’s plenty of the city to take in from your room’s vantage point. Bright and functional, it has some nice touches with a personal coffee machine, wine rack and widescreen TV. There’s also extensive spa treatments available. From $215 a night.

(660 North State Street, +1 312 202 6000; danahotelandspa.com) MID-RANGE A bustling luxury hotel close to the Magnificent Mile, Chicago’s upmarket shopping district, the Sofitel Chicago Water Tower’s impressive 32-floor structure was designed by French architect Jean-Paul Viguier. A respectable French restaurant, Café des Architects, and bar with outdoor seating, make the hotel a local destination too. From $195 a night. (20 East Chestnut Street +1 312 324 4000; sofitel-chicago.com) The Essex Inn is a three-star, downtown hotel alongside Grant Park, which means you’re close to all the tourist sites. There’s a good chance the view from your room will overlook Millennium Park and the yachts sailing Lake Michigan in summer. From $159 a night. (800 South Michigan Avenue, +1 312 939 2800; essexinn.com) BUDGET Most of the hotels are downtown in the Windy City so, if you’re more interested in the music and food side of things, and as most of the notable restaurants and venues are located north or west of the city, head to the Best Western River North for reliable accommodation. From $99 a night.

(125 West Ohio Street, +1 312 467 0800; rivernorthhotel.com) AUGUST 2014

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MUSIC | CHICAGO

Eat at ...

Chicago has a few famous food associations: deep-dish pizza, Chicagostyle hot dogs and Italian beef sandwiches. Deep-dish pizza is 100 per cent American – too big to finish without retiring to bed. If you must try it, Lou Malnati’s (37 locations; loumalnatis. com) is one of the originals.

Now that’s out of the way, your first port of call is a foodie street. Randolph Street is a downtown neighbourhood that houses some of the city’s best restaurants. Whether it’s trying what’s often called the best burger in America (it is really something special) at Au Cheval diner (auchevalchicago.com), Stephanie Izard’s inspired small plates at Girl & The Goat (girlandthegoat. com) or its spacious sister diner Little Goat (littlegoatchicago.com), the localfarm sourced menu of Grange Hall (grangehallburgerbar.com), the sushi at Tanoshii Sushi Mike (tanoshiisushi.com) or the gastro pub of Haymarket, all within metres of each other. Foodie bliss.

Speaking of sushi, if you find yourself further north or downtown, Coast Sushi (two locations; coastsushi.net) serves up bespoke sashimi and sushi with unusual ingredients and a BYOB policy.

At celebrity chef Rick Bayless’s Xoco

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(449 North Clark Street; rickbayless. com), lines are to be expected for its contemporary Mexican street food. Looking for a sugar rush? Try Glazed & Infused (813 West Fulton Market; goglazed.com) for donuts or Garrett (Downtown, various locations; garrettpopcorn.com) for multi-flavoured sweet popcorn.

Operated by Bruce Finkleman, co-owner of The Empty Bottle, Longman & Eagle (2657 North Kedzie Avenue; longmanandeagle.com) serves small plates, including beer battered smelt, a fish caught in nearby Lake Michigan, plus an extensive beer and cocktail menu. Six rooms are available upstairs for an easy overnight stay.

Top, style in the city – Britt Julious, Chicago journalist and music writer.

Above, Stephanie Izard’s Girl & The Goat.

Chicago’s economic reputation in the early 20th century brought European immigrants from Germany, Poland, Czechoslovakia, Ukraine, Ireland, Italy and Sweden.

Each group of migrants settled in different areas. “Chicago is a city of neighbourhoods,” says Anthony Musiala of Chicago indie label Minty Fresh Records.

“You’ll find that everyone is working on their own thing.” The fractured municipality can give each of Chicago’s neighbourhoods a distinct music feel. Nowhere is that more pronounced than the south side of the city, where rap music, including its often violent drill music subgenre and its harder, dance music cousin’s footwork and juke, have received international attention. Some recent famous rappers to emerge from “Chitown” include Chief Keef, Twista, Common and Kanye West, who cultural writer Britt Julious describes as “a very Chicago individual”, adding: “That individualistic boastfulness, the oozing pride and righteousness that he has, is very Chicago.”

The Windy City has had some well-known rock bands emerge from its ’hoods over the years. Smashing Pumpkins, Veruca Salt, Wilco and Alkaline Trio are some of the more wellknown acts who got their start here.

Generally speaking for live shows, if it’s small indie gigs you want to check out, head west. If it’s larger touring rock bands, head north.

The Empty Bottle (1035 N Western Avenue; emptybottle. com) in the Ukrainian Village, just south of Wicker Park, is located in a former gangland area in the west, and is often top of the list for discerning indie music fans. The beat-up, rundown-looking building of The Hideout (1354 West Wabansia Avenue; hideoutchicago.com), is a 150-capacity, north-west venue in an industrial area, likely opened as an Irish illegal bar in the late 1800s and is lovingly described as

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MUSIC | CHICAGO

“a neighbourhood bar without a neighbourhood”. Double Door (1572 North Milwaukee Avenue; doubledoor.com) is a gritty and respected Wicker Park music establishment, further west.

If you want to keep it intimate, Schubas (3159 North Southport Avenue; schubas.com) in Lakeview is an impressive, mead-style hall where you might find local emerging bands such as White Mystery and Redgrave playing. Get to the area early and visit the nearby Reckless Records shop, opposite.

For larger and touring rock shows, the 1,100-capacity Metro (3730 North Clark Street; metrochicago.com), is a north-side venue near Wrigley Field (the home of the Chicago Cubs baseball team) which had REM play as its first show back in 1982. Recent and upcoming guests include Glen Hansard, Spoon, Hozier (see interview on page 36) and Echo And The Bunnymen.

Lincoln Hall (2424 North Lincoln Avenue; lincolnhallchicago. com) in Lincoln Park is one of the city’s newest and cleanest venues, where mid-tier bands such as Wild Beasts, OK Go and Bell X1 have played. Meanwhile, larger international touring bands have played under the impressively painted roof of the 4,500-capacity Aragon Ballroom (1106 West Lawrence Avenue; aragon.com),

which first opened north-side in 1926. Recent visitors include New Order, Foals and Disclosure.

In modern times, Chicago music’s most famous musical export to the world has been house music, one of the most dominant genres of dance music in the last 30 years.

In the early 1980s, suburban west and north-side nightclubs such as The Warehouse, Music Box and The Power Plant were where Frankie Knuckles, Ron Hardy, Larry Heard and Lil Louis set the foundations of house music before it became a global genre.

Down the road from Wrigley Field on the north-side, Smart Bar (3730 North Clark Street; smartbarchicago.com), which has been operating out of the basement of the Metro venue since opening in 1982, maintains a direct line to those nascent house music days.

It is frequently cited as one of the city’s best clubs and rated one of the best in the world by the dance music community.

Knuckles, the founder of the Power Plant, was a resident at one of the Smart Bar’s nights until he passed away in March of this year.

On a Sunday night, you might find legendary resident DJ Derrick Carter playing to an LGBT-friendly crowd who dance to house and disco at Queen. One Saturday a month, the Hugo Ball night injects art into the dancefloor via

Music festivals Chicago Blues Festival, Grant Park The city of Chicago expects 500,000 people to attend this free event in the city’s main public park. MidJune; cityofchicago.org Pitchfork Festival, Union Park The folk at Pitchfork magazine have been running a festival in their hometown since 2006 and 2014’s edition saw the likes of Beck, Giorgio Moroder, Neutral

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Milk Hotel, St Vincent and Kendrick Lamar play. Mid-July; pitchforkmusicfestival.com Lollapalooza Festival, Grant Park Lolla has settled into its Chicago home since 2010. Some 160,000 people are expected to attend this year and the line-up includes Eminem, Kings of Leon, Arctic Monkeys, and more. August 1-13; lollapalooza.com

Chicago Jazz Festival, Millennium Park Another free city-run festival, its four days feature an eclectic lineup of 50 jazz artists from Sun Ra Arkestra to Ravi Coltrane to Dave Holland.

Performances take place in Chicago Cultural Center, Roosevelt University and the impressive Jay Pritzker Pavilion. August 28-31; cityofchicago.org

Dig those sounds – customers listen to records at Gramaphone Records.

5 Best Record Shops ...

1

Jazz Record Mart, 27 East Illinois Street Thousands of titles of music on vinyl and CD including 78s and an extensive collection of jazz and blues music. Owned and operated since 1959 by Bob Koester of Delmark Records. jazzmart.com

2

Reckless Records A staple of the Chicago music scene, Reckless has three locations but the original, on 3126 North Broadway is recommended. It trades in new and used records, CDs

and DVDs, with a musical focus on rock, pop, blues, and funk. reckless.com

3

Permanent Records, 1914 West Chicago Avenue A fine selection of new and used rock and pop make up the gamut of this trendy record shop. Look out for the in-house cat Zareeika. permanentrecordschicago.com

4

Gramaphone Records, 2843 North Clark Street Owned by Smart Bar resident Michael Serafini; it

wouldn’t be unusual to find a visiting international DJ flipping the records in search of rare grooves in the genres of house, disco and blues. gramaphonerecords.com

5

Dusty Groove, 1120 North Ashland Avenue Jazz, funk, soul and hip-hop line the racks of this small but well-curated record shop in the Ukrainian Village area of the city.

Especially recommended for music from around the globe. dustygroove.com

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MUSIC | CHICAGO

Drink at …

COFFEE For a cup of coffee in Chicago, Intelligentsia Coffee (seven locations; intelligentsiacoffee.com), all brewing coffee as a craft, is your best bet. Emphasis is on single-origin coffee beans, specially filtered via the Chemex and Hario brewing methods. Of course, you can still get your regular lattés, cappuccinos and iced coffee in the hot summer as well.

COCKTAILS & WINE The West Randolph Street area strikes again.

The area also has some notable spirit and wine bars. Maude’s (840 West Randolph Street; maudesliquorbar. com) is a liquor bar owned by Brendan Sodikoff, which also serves French food but is equally known for its mixed drinks too. Down the street, Avec (615 West Randolph; avecrestaurant. com) is a small wine producer-focused restaurant serving rustic fare while The Bluebird (1749 North Damen Avenue; bluebirdchicago.com) further north is staffed by knowledgable sommeliers and an extensive wine list.

The speakeasy-style cocktail mecca The Violet Hour (1520 North Damen Avenue; theviolethour.com) serves its artful drinks in a decadent bar with no obvious signage on the exterior of the building. If it’s something novel you want, hit Three Dots And A Dash (435 North Clark; threedotschicago.com) for some tiki-based cocktails with long straws, flammable liquids and dry ice.

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ILLUSTRATION BY STEVE McCARTHY

BEER If it’s craft beer you want, The Hopleaf (5148 North Clark Street; hopleaf.com) is an old tavern near The Green Mill on the north-side with an extensive list of world beers, and a particular emphasis on the Belgian style. Further west, Bangers & Lace (Wicker Park; bangersandlacechicago. com) is a charming neighbourhood bar which changes its beer taps daily and stocks local beers prominently.

Other hangouts to check out include Rainbo (1150 North Damen Avenue) on the west-side or, downtown, the established pub Miller’s (134 South Wabash Avenue; millerspub.com). There are also a number of breweries in the area including Half Acre, Revolution and Goose Island, all of which have their own bars and taprooms to visit.

installations and a manifesto. Smart Bar’s strong vision and philosophy is also what keeps it relevant.

“Our job is to be a contrast to the mainstreaming of dance music and to be successful through style and aesthetic rather than popularity,” says Marea Stamper, Smart Bar’s talent booker. “We should sell out the club with our residents, and we do.”

Whether it’s in a small club like The Green Mill, a sweaty basement like Smart Bar, a raucous bar like Kingston Mines or a large hall like Metro, the constant beat of music remains at the heart of the groove of Chicago. Whether Robert Johnson made it to the city or not, he would have found a sweet home brimming with music in Chicago.

Follow Niall @Nialler9 Marea Stamper, talent booker at Smart Bar, near Wrigley Field.

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CITY BREAK | LISBON

Enteringthe labyrinth

The Portuguese capital demands little of the traveller other than gentle acceptance and a pair of walking shoes.

Lisbon is the perfect city in which to lose yourself, says Hilary Fannin. Photographs by Emily Mott.

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Dining al fresco in the narrow streets along the route of the Bica Funicular. Opposite, a tram takes on the steep gradients of the Alfama district.

AUGUST 2014

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CITY BREAK | LISBON

hen I was a little girl, back in the days when nobody in Ireland went anywhere much beyond their back gardens for their summer holidays, and when the highlight of the week was a packet of Hula Hoops and a chance to stay up and watch The Mary Tyler Moore Show, a unique thing happened. My father sailed to Lisbon on a small boat and returned, some weeks later, with a leather pencil case and a pair of moccasins for me. Moccasins – even the word tasted exotic.

“In Lisbon, the children run barefoot through the alleyways,” he told me. “Lisbon,” I whispered to myself, and the city began to grow in my imagination.

Then, years later, when I was in my teens, my brother was a crew member on another small boat, doing a transatlantic crossing, when the vessel hit a whale just off the Lisbon coast. After some ad-hoc repairs at sea and a slow limp into port, he too ended up in Lisbon.

“What’s it like?” I asked him on his return. “Lisbon is a city to lose yourself in,” he replied.

It took a long time, but when I finally found myself wandering through the winding thoroughfares of Lisbon’s historic quarters, I understood what he had meant. Lisbon is a beguiling, seductive city that unravels along narrow streets and dusky medieval alleyways, a place that revealss itself in blue-and-white-tiled facades and sweeping views across the wide expanse of thee Rio Tejo (River Tagus) from tiny elevated squares above the terracotta rooftops.

It is a capital that won’t assault you with an aggressive tourist trade or rattle your bones with manufactured vibrancy, a place that demands little of the traveller other than gentle acceptance and a pair of walking shoes. Over several warm, cloudy days in late spring, with

W

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Top, the grand Arco da Rua Augusta, beyond which lies Lisbon’s main riverfront square, Praça do Comércio.

Above, writer Hilary Fannin takes a breath on the city’s steep streets.

fallen jacaranda flowers littering the streets like purple confetti, we set out walking to discover the city, and we walked, and we walked, and we walked.

Lisbon’s beauty and mystery lie in the fact that it cannot be defined simply by one or two celebrated monuments; it is a city of small, meandering, interlocking neighbourhoods, each one offering cavernous wooden bars and fantastically priced local restaurants serving wonderful local wines and produce. (For an authentic and great-value Portuguese menu, follow the locals to Toma Lá Dá Cá,

Travessa do Sequeiro, 38, in an alley in Bairro Alto between the Bica Elevator and Miradouro de Santa Catarina, where the average price of a three-course meal is €20.)

The streets and busy squares offer a variety of colourfully stocked sweet and pastry shops, warmly evocative coffee houses, small boutiques and exquisite old-fashioned drapery stores, their windows populated by mannequins in wedding hats and squat plaster babies in christening gowns.

Lisbon is, as my brother said, a city to lose yourself in, in the gentlest possible way. It is a

CITY BREAK | LISBON

Sleep at ...

BUDGET Located in Chiado, tucked away amid small galleries, street art and cobblestoned alleyways, Lisbon Poets Hostel boasts a romantic and eclectic atmosphere.

A bed in a mixed dorm costs around €20 per night, private rooms from €45.

(Rua Nova da Trinidade, Chiado, +351 213 461 241; lisbonpoetshostel.com) MID-RANGE A friendly, efficient, four-star hotel, slap-bang in the centre of the historic quarters, just off Rossio square, Hotel Santa Justa offers a good buffet breakfast and comfortable, well-stocked bedrooms with free mini-bar (beer and juice) and the welcome extra of a Nespresso machine.

Double/twin rooms cost from €161 per night.

(Rua dos Correeiros 204, +351 210 499 000; hotelsantajustalisboa.com) SPLURGE An elegant ten-storey building situated on one of Lisbon’s seven hills, the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon looks out over St George’s Moorish castle and the Tagus River. With its spacious, elegant interiors (including a

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collection of contemporary Portuguese tapestries, paintings and sculpture) and just about every spa treatment you can imagine, it’s bliss for the weary but well-heeled traveller. The rooftop running track is a unique feature too, with stunning views of the sprawling city. Deluxe double rooms cost from €283 per night.

(Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca 88, +351 213 811 400; fourseasons.com) Perched on the castle’s walls, overlooking the river, Palacio Belmonte, above, is a former palace dating back to the 15th century.

The hotel has been lovingly restored – check out the panels of 18th-century ceramic tiles. There are no TVs here, nor a formal reception desk. But there is free Wi-Fi, a bar, organic food, a pool, a home-fromhome atmosphere – and splendid rooftop panoramas.

Double rooms from €550.

(Pátio de Dom Fradique 14, +351 218 816 600; palaciobelmonte.com)

labyrinth to trail through in a haphazard fashion, perhaps by boarding one of the beautiful wooden trams that criss-cross the old town, and hopping off wherever the fancy takes you, or by waiting for one of the funiculars that carry passengers up past the faded grandeur of tall terraces to further and higher streets.

There are one or two areas within the historic quarters that no visit would be complete without allowing time to wander through.

Among the oldest is Alfama, a warren of shadowy streets running down from the Moorish Castelo de São Jorge, whose ancient parapets are visible from much of the city.

This working-class district was the birthplace of Amália Rodrigues, the greatest name in fado (meaning “fate”), Portugal’s most celebrated musical form. When Rodrigues died in 1999 the country marked its loss with three days of official mourning.

Today,

Top left, 18th century ceramic tiles adorn the rooms at the Palacio Belmonte.

Above, tantalising pastel de nata at Mercado da Ribeira’s food hall. Right, nightlife spills out of buzzy Restaurante O Boteco on to the cobbled streets of Bairro Alto.

while parts of the area, especially around the castle and gardens, are populated by tourists, Alfama retains the skein of its past: washing lines suspended above flower-filled balconies, curious cats appearing from windows that open on to the cobbled streets, caged birds in doorways singing their own version of the blues.

Adjoining Alfama, on the other side of the castle, is the Mouraria neighbourhood, a worthwhile amble off the tourist track. Mouraria was where the Muslim Moors retreated after being pushed back by the reconquering Portuguese, and it is now home to a diversity of communities, adding to its cultural and epicurean richness. A wander down from the high alleys and streets to Martim Moniz Square and Largo de São Domingos below is to experience an authentic glimpse of Lisbon’s variety.

Halfway down, we watched elderly Portuguese ladies line-dancing on the balcony of a community centre, slow, melancholic but strangely

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CITY BREAK | LISBON

jaunty fado belting out from a beat box on the steps, colourful garlands of plastic flowers strung along the pillars and railings.

From Mouraria it is a short walk to Rossio, the city’s main square since medieval times, where, if you need to refuel, you are just around the corner from the sumptuous pastry counter of the renowned Confeitaria Nacional (Praça de Figueira 18B, +351 213 243 000; confeitarianacional.com), one of Lisbon’s oldest and most welcoming eating establishments.

The busy shopping district of Baixa includes Rua do Carmo, home to the famous Luvaria Ulisses store (Rua do Carmo 87, +351 342 0295; luvariaulisses.com), selling some of the world’s finest leather gloves, where gracious Lisbonites come for their custom-made mittens.

The rather grand Rua Augusta, with its numerous shoe shops, also houses the wonderfully aromatic traditional coffee and confectionery shop Casa Pereira da Conceição (Rua Augusta 102, +351 213 423 000), where purchases are reverentially wrapped in brown paper and tied up with string.

Pass under the Arco da Rua Augusta at the end of the street

Above left, gorgeous homewares shop A Vida Portuguesa in Mouraria, and right, João Perreira whetting appetites at the Confeitaria Nacional. Below, tasty titbits at Cervejaria Ramiro, a magnet for pescatarians.

In Lisbon, eat at ...

BUDGET In the heart of Bairro Alto, the friendly, cheerful latenight restaurant Petiscos no Bairro offers a varied and interesting menu, where two substantial tapas dishes, including fabulous grilled prawns, and a jug of local wine come in at just over €30. (Rua da Atalaia 133, Bairro Alto, +351 919 574 498) The oldest traditional patisserie in Lisbon, Confeitaria Nacional, has been run by the same family for six generations. It serves mouth-watering pastries, fresh sandwiches and a daily lunch menu from less than €9.

(Praça da Figueira 18, +351 213 424 470; confeitarianacional.com) MID-RANGE Perfect Portuguese dishes and tapas are found in a tiny but gorgeous traditional setting at Taberna da Rua das Flores. Choose from an extensive

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array of imaginative and beautifully cooked delicacies. Three filling tapas dishes, two fantastic desserts, coffee and a bottle of local wine cost around €60 in total. Get there early to avoid queues. (Rua das Flores 103, +351 213 479 418) Sea Me is a modern fish market and restaurant. Eat at the bar for between €9 and €13 for a main course.

Live jazz and blues at the weekend. (Rua do Loreto 21, Chiado, +351 213 461 564; peixariamoderna.com) SPLURGE A formal gourmet dining experience in Lisbon’s oldest restaurant, Tavares offers Portuguese cuisine in gilded opulence.

Dine like a princess for upwards of €50 per head for a threecourse meal. Closed Mondays and Sundays.

(Rua da Misericórdia

35, +351 213 421 112; restaurantetavares.net) Alfama’s most famous fado house, Clube de Fado, situated near Lisbon Cathedral, offers traditional Portuguese food followed by music from top local performers, including the proprietor, guitarist Mário Pacheco. Starters cost €10 to €20, main courses around €30, or push the boat out on the likes of shellfish cataplana at around €85 for two people sharing. Booking advisable. (Rua São João da Praça 86-94, +351 218 852 704; clube-de-fado.com) José Avillez is the Jamie Oliver of Portugal.

He owns four restaurants serving food at varying levels of sophistication and price, all of them good. Try Mini Bar for a memorable food-astheatre; don’t miss the foie gras Ferrero Rocher bonbon. (Rua António Maria Cardoso, +351 211 305 393; joseavillez.pt)

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CITY BREAK | LISBON

Don’t miss ...

1

THE NUMBER 28 TRAM Step back in time and see the heart of the old city from the elegant wooden carriages of the number 28 tram between Martim Moniz square and Estrela. This charming, if occasionally alarming, mode of local transport rattles up and down the slopes of the historic quarters with impressive speed via Alfama, Baixa and Chiado.

Tickets available for purchase on the tram for under €2 – or, purchase the Lisboa Card, see page 90.

2

THE ELEVADOR DA BICA This oldfashioned funicular trundles uphill from its atmospheric mouth under the “Ascensor da Bica” sign on Ruá de São Paulo, along a narrow track between the windows

The high life – pleasing panoramas from the Palacio Belmonte. Opposite, clockwise from top left, the surging Elevador de Santa Justa; Cathrine Austad and Mariana Quadros soaking up the sun; Ascensor da Glória; Bruna Pinto taking orders at the renowned seafood café Sol e Pesca on Rua Nova do Carvalho.

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and front doors of the vertiginous residential streets, leading up to Rua Loretto, where you’ll be deposited, with a smile of sheer childish pleasure on your face, at the foot of lively Bairro Alto.

3

BAIRRO ALTO This area of narrow alleys comes alive at night with an exciting array of bars, clubs, restaurants and independent

boutiques. Wander down Rua da Atalaia in search of impromptu fado, or other live music.

dunes, this sparsely populated beach has to be one of the most beautiful and unspoilt in Europe.

4

5

COMPORTA BEACH A kilometre or so from Comporta town, weathered wooden boardwalks lead down to an unbroken 21-kilometre stretch of golden sand and inviting sea. Bordered by pine trees and rolling

THE SADO ESTUARY The Sado Estuary lies between dense pine forest and the Atlantic Ocean.

Walk or cycle along its banks and watch storks pick their distinctively elegant way across the green paddy fields.

and continue on to Praça do Comércio, Lisbon’s main riverfront square, the starting point for many tourist trams and buses, including those to the riverfront suburb Belém, known for its national monuments, museums and landmarks as well as for Portugal’s most famous pastry shop, Casa Pastéis de Belém (Rua de Belém 84, +351 213 637 423; pasteisdebelem.pt). If you are so inclined and can spare a euro, Praça do Comércio also offers a visit to the capital’s self-appointed “sexiest toilet on earth”, located just beside the main tourist office. I passed on the opportunity, a regret I’ll just have to live with.

It is the spacious and often uninhabited buildings on this stretch of faded elegance down to the quays that have begun to attract a new, young, international artistic crowd, tempted by cheap rents and the generally low cost of living. The Design and Fashion Museum, or MUDE (Rua Augusta 24, +351 218 886 117; mude.pt), can be found here, while just outside the city, in Cascais, the free, Casa das Histórias contains hundreds of artworks by the Lisbon-born Paula Rego, Portugal’s most celebrated living artist (Avenida da República 300, +351 214 826 970; casadashistoriaspaularego.com). For more information on Lisbon’s docks revival, visit golisbon.com.

Beyond the buzzing Chiado shopping district to the west, with its

In Comporta, eat at ...

BUDGET There is very little price disparity among the beach bars and restaurants on Praia da Comporta, where you pay for both the ocean view and to be part of the hip, cosmopolitan crowd that adorns the terraces. For budget eating, pack a sandwich in your sand bucket, then head to the Ilha do Arroz beach lounge and restaurant for a sundowner that won’t break the bank. (Praia da Comporta, Alcácer do Sal, +351 265 490 510; restauranteilhadoarroz.com)

MID-RANGE A welcoming atmosphere and wonderful local wines and produce have made Restaurante Museu do Arroz, situated in Comporta’s old rice-husking mill, a favourite with locals and visitors to the Tróia peninsula. Try the Saint Pierre fillets with razor clams or the bacalhau fishcakes with tomato rice. A substantial dinner for two, with wine and coffee, costs around €80 – fantastic value.

(Estrada Nacional 261, +351 265 497 555; restaurantemuseudoarroz.com)

SPLURGE The achingly cool Comporta Café beach restaurant lures you in with hammocks and swing seats, artily scattered beanbags and shockingpink canvas cushions. With the sun shining down on the scrubbed wooden terrace and the Atlantic beating away on the shore, having a glass of chilled white wine and freshly caught prawns here is a gorgeous, if wallet-lightening, experience. A light lunch for two comes in at around €70. (Praia da Comporta, +351 265 497 652; comportacafe.com) AUGUST 2014

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rather more upmarket cafés around Rua Garrett, is the unmissable Bairro Alto (upper town), the city’s top (though relatively inexpensive) spot in which to spend the evening or carouse on into the night. The thin streets are a tangle of wine bars, restaurants and clubs – night owls could check out the eclectic atmosphere at Fragil (Rua da Atalaia 128, +351 213 469 578; fragil.com.pt), and it is here that the more intimate fado houses can be found, where it’s easy to enjoy a glass of local wine and listen to the music without the trappings of tourist menus and hotel shuttle buses. Try Mascote da Atalaia (Rua da Atalaia 13, +351 211 983 973).

Lisbon is also long established as one of Europe’s main clubbing cities, and for perhaps the hippest venue of all, check out Lux Frágil (Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, +351 218 820 890; luxfragil.com), part-owned by the actor John Malkovich.

Although leaving Lisbon was a wrench, we next headed south to the pleasant village of Comporta, in the Alentejo region, to catch a few rays and explore a 21-kilometre stretch of pristine beach in an area of intense natural beauty that has, so far, remained relatively unexploited. An hour south of Lisbon, off the main A2 highway, is the port of Setúbal whose gorgeously disorganised pedestrianised interior is worth a visit – from where a car ferry will carry you to the Tróia peninsula, a spit of land sandwiched between ocean, pine forest and the meandering Sado Estuary, where fastidious storks (cegonhas) nest above the green rice paddies.

The beach at Comporta is staggeringly beautiful, stretching out for kilometre after golden sandy kilometre as far as the eye can see.

During our visit, in late spring, the

ILLUSTRATION BY JENNIFER REYNOLDS

CITY BREAK | LISBON

Fishermen catching bait in Comporta.

Lisbon’s transport The Lisboa Card is the easiest way to navigate s, funiculars and system, allowing unlimited travel on buses, tram also offers free admission underground, as well as on CP trains to Sintra. It €18.50 for 24 hours/€39 to museums, historic buildings and landmarks. s. askmelisboa.com for 72 hours, available at Turismo de Lisboa booth 90 |

AUGUST 2014

sun shone continuously, the Atlantic Ocean sparkled and there was a mere handful of people scattered among the dunes. Still the preserve of the knowing few, the area is rumoured to be in line for up to five new hotels and two golf courses.

However the planned developments will be eco-friendly and shouldn’t offend the storks’ sensibilities too badly. So, if you want to experience the area in its current state and lose yourself in the empty sand dunes and along the reedy banks of the Sado, you’ll need to get there before the hard hats arrive.

Follow Hilary @HilaryFannin

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In the eye of history A city of two halves joined across the Danube, Budapest has been shaped by its turbulent past. Neil Hegarty finds a place now turning towards the future. Photographs by Sean Breithaupt and Yvette Monahan.

The Chain Bridge links Pest on the eastern side of the Danube with smaller Buda on the west. The city was intended as a new joint capital for the Austro-Hungarian empire.

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CITY BREAK | BUDAPEST

he view from the window is dramatic: the broad Danube flowing through the heart of the city and of Europe; the graceful lines of the Chain Bridge straight ahead and, on the opposite bank, an escarpment crowned with domes and palaces, spires and elegant mansions. The lilac is in bloom and tall candles of horse chestnut blossom wave in a warm breeze. Welcome to Budapest.

This is my first visit to the Hungarian capital – and I have only a fuzzy sense of what to expect. Sure, I know the facts, gleaned from a clutter of guidebooks: larger Pest on the eastern side of the Danube and smaller Buda up there on its hill to the west, the two unified in 1873 following the Ausgleich – the “Compromise” between Austria and Hungary – as the new joint capital of the Habsburg Empire; periods of growth cut with years of siege, destruction and human drama; the hot thermal waters that add a touch of ease to life in this city; the beauty of the local Jugendstil or Art Nouveau architecture. I know my personalities: especially the tragic Elisabeth (Sissi), the Empress of

T

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The Gresham Palace, left, is home to the Four Seasons hotel, but is an attraction in its own right.

Heroes’ Square, right, is famous for its statue complex featuring the Seven Chieftains of the Magyars.

Austria and Queen of Hungary after whom so many Budapest landmarks are named. So, I know my history, my geography, even my geology; still, I sense that the real Budapest hovers just out of vision.

I am looking from the windows of the Gresham Palace, completed to acclaim in 1906 – and in itself an exemplar of Budapest’s spectacular history. There is more to this building than meets the eye: shattered by war, explosion and neglect in the course of the 20th century, its fabulous Art Nouveau interior and glass winter garden was restored as a Four Seasons hotel in 2005. Today it’s also an attraction in its own right, with guided tours available. “Our fairytale palace, we call it,” laughs Veronika Szabó, the hotel’s public relations manager. “And you can see why,” and she points to the motifs of peacocks and love hearts threading the intricate ironwork, mosaics, staircases and glorious stained glass.

As we explore, other aspects of Budapest slowly reveal themselves. The Great Synagogue (2 Dohány Utca; dohany-zsinagoga.hu), one of the world’s largest, completed in 1859 as a focus for Pest’s vibrant Jewish community, appears to be an exercise in architectural

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CITY BREAK | BUDAPEST

Stay at …

SPLURGE Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest is the city’s ultimate splurge destination. Come here for superb service and facilities (including excellent top-floor spa and pool, plus excellent dining and drinking options), amid gracious, beautiful surroundings. There are 179 bedrooms, all spacious and well-appointed: request a room with river views. Doubles from €340; rates do not generally include breakfast.

(5-6 Széchenyi István Tér, +36 1268 6000; fourseasons.com) MID-PRICE The NH chain of hotels offers smart, high-quality accommodation and facilities at very reasonable prices; there are frequent special offers available online. NH Budapest is just a few minutes’ walk from the

Margaret Bridge, Parliament, Nyugati station and Szabadság Tér (Freedom Square): it’s slick, modern and comes complete with free Wi-Fi, cocktail bar, gym and copious breakfast buffet (but note that not all room rates include breakfast). Doubles from €80. (3 Vígszínház Utca, +36 1814 0000; nh-hotels.com) BUDGET What a name! Hotel Sissi enjoys a convenient location on the southern edge of Pest city centre and is a few minutes’ walk from the Danube. Friendly, English-speaking staff and 44 quiet, clean, comfortable rooms – plus generous breakfast buffet, free Wi-Fi, bar and large lounge area. A good choice. Doubles from €55. (33 Angyal Utca, +36 1215 0082; hotelsissibudapest.com)

Sunset in the city – sublime views from Buda Hill Park. Opposite page, clockwise from top left – one man and his dog in the park opposite the Gresham Palace; traditional fare at the Bistro Deryne on Kristina Tér (bistroderyne.com); a memorial in Memento Park which allows visitors to dial up speeches by Communist leaders.

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confidence, fusing Spanish and Arabic influences in its twin gilt domes, geometric mosaics and tiered galleries. Later, we find the memorial area which, with its graves and weeping mulberry trees, commemorates the hundreds of thousands of Hungarian Jews murdered in the Holocaust. In the adjoining Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park (named after the Swedish diplomat who saved numerous Jews from deportation), there is a striking metal sculpture in the form of a willow tree, with the names of some of these Holocaust victims etched into its leaves.

More recent history is showcased in the Memento Park (Balatoni Utca-Szabadkai Utca; mementopark. hu), on the southern edge of Budapest. The park holds the city’s collection of Communistera statues, dotted around the landscaped grounds. As a museum, it’s both strange and gripping – and not only because of the prized Trabant parked at the entrance: who can forget the sight of Trabis flooding from East Berlin as the Wall came down? A quarter-century has passed and it has become easy to forget about the overwhelming visual effects of Communism – in particular its penchant for outsized workers’ memorials. We pause in front of one such vast statue of a muscle-bound worker brandishing a flag; it once stood in Heroes’ Square in Budapest city centre, where it was known as the Cloakroom Attendant. “You know,” smiles our guide Dóra Szkuklik, “Madam, you forgot your coat!” But this place also has a serious purpose. “The existence of the Memento Park means that it’s impossible to forget history,” Dóra points out. “This is the crucial point.”

Back in the city, we decide we have had enough Communism for

“Hungarian culture has always been a fusion of east and west, north and south – and so, naturally, it’s not all goulash and paprika!”

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a little while – instead, we must focus our attention on our stomachs.

Hungary’s impressive National Museum (14-16 Múzeum Körút; hnm.hu) detains us, therefore, for only a little while. Afterwards, we wander the atmospheric streets of the surrounding seventh and eighth districts, with their narrow streets and small shops and galleries.

Mikszáth Kalman Tér is buzzing, with an open-air food and beer market in full swing; we sample some delicious sour-cherry strudel and ice cream, and then wander on the grand boulevard of Andrássy Út which, with its luxury department stores and boutiques, positively hops with shopping opportunities. We stop for a drink in the courtyard at Anker’t (33 Paulay Ede Utca; ankert.hu), one of the city’s ruin bars – pubs that have sprung up over the last decade in old city-centre tenement and factory buildings and are emblematic of a new Budapest, one that is buzzing, youthful and emphatically modern.

A little later in the evening comes another reminder of this city’s contemporary flavour. We find ourselves in nearby Spiler (Gozsdu

Ruin bars such as Anker’t have sprung up in disused buildings all over the city. Below – Roy Zsidai, who owns Spiler gastropub.

Eat at ...

SPLURGE Michelin-starred Borkonyha (Wine Kitchen) is located just a few steps from Erzsébet Tér (Elisabeth Square) in the heart of Pest.

Here’s your chance to eat well, bistrostyle, in cheerful and competitively priced surroundings. Meat is big – the local duck dishes come recommended; it’s essential to book ahead. (3 Sas Utca, +36 1266 0835; borkonyha.hu) MID-PRICE Try comfortable, relaxed Pest Buda on the hill of Buda. I had the emerald-green wild garlic soup, followed by deeply flavoured chicken paprika with potatoes, with lemony

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cheese-and-raisin pancakes to finish the meal. Excellent – and easy on the pocket. (Pest Buda, 3 Fortuna Utca, +36 1225 0377; pestbudabistro.hu) BUDGET Kadarka is just a few steps from Andrássy Utca – and here’s a chance to explore the world of Hungarian wines. User-friendly too: sample by the half-glass until you settle on your vintage of choice.

Match with a cheese or meat platter (or a grilled aubergine sandwich) – and you’ll stay all night. (42 Király Utca, +36 1266 5094; facebook.com/ kadarkabar)

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CITY BREAK | BUDAPEST

Don’t miss ...

1

Spend a little time on the banks of the mighty Danube – or Duna in Hungarian.

Here, Tram No. 2 is your best friend: it runs south from the Margaret Bridge and you can use it to explore the riverside. Buy a Budapest Card (available from metro stations and many hotels) for 24-, 48- or 72-hour validity: this will provide unlimited access to all forms of public transport, as well as free admission to many city museums. Investigate the beautiful spaces of the Palace of Arts and of Parliament; grab an al fresco bite and a beer on Vörösmarty Tér; cross the Chain Bridge and climb the hill of Buda (or simply take the funicular) to the Hungarian National Gallery and Budapest History Museum. In particular, don’t miss the

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Shoes on the Danube memorial to the Jewish victims of wartime Hungarian fascism. You’ll find it on the riverbank close to Parliament; this is public art at its most powerful and poignant.

2

Serene Margaret Island (Margitsziget) is Budapest’s playground. Visit the Japanese Garden; swim at the Palatinus Strand thermal complex of six pools – or hire a bike from the city’s new bike scheme, BuBi (bkk.hu), and explore the island at your own pace.

3

The boulevard of Andrássy Út runs 2.5km from Erzsébet Tér to the Széchenyi baths.

Daunted by the length? Hop on and off the

M1 underground metro line which runs along the entire boulevard. With its tiny trains and Hobbitsized platforms, it’s an experience in itself.

4

Budapest’s sumptuous and gorgeously ornate State Opera House (2 Andrássy Út; opera.hu) is worth seeing even if you don’t want to attend a performance. Public tours take place at 3pm and 4pm daily.

5

Budapest’s thermal baths are rightly famous – and the Turkish-era Rudas Baths (9 Döbrentei Tér; rudasbaths.com) are among the most atmospheric in the city (Mon, Wed, Thu and Fri: men only; Tue: women only; weekend: mixed)

Bath time – the Széchenyi, left, has 18 pools open to the public and is the largest thermal baths in Europe. Above left – Csaba Káel, director of MUPA, the riverside Palace of Arts. Right – the Book Café is a Budapest institution.

Udvar, 13 Király Utca; spilerbp.hu), a gastropub on a narrow lane packed with gleaming, modern eateries. It’s visually striking – a combination of wood, industrial fittings and a wall of back-lit Martini bottles – and jammed on this weekend evening.

The owner of Spiler – and of Spiler Shanghai just across the lane, which combines Hungarian and Asian influences under a beguiling forest of glowing red lanterns – is Roy Zsidai.

He explains his philosophy over a local Távoli Galaxis ale: “Hungarian culture has always been a fusion of east and west, north and south: we sit in the eye of history – and so naturally our cuisine reflects this fact. It’s not all goulash and paprika!”

We have another combined taste of Budapest the following day, when we take ourselves off to the Széchenyi (11 Állakerti Körút; szechenyibath.com), Europe’s largest thermal baths in the middle of the Városliget (City Park). The building is cool and formal, neo-

classical and painted the ochreyellow of the Habsburgs; once through the doors, however, we see that half of Budapest is splashing in the largest of the open-air baths (there are 18 in total, indoor and outdoor) in this exuberant, familyfriendly complex. The water is beautifully warm and we lounge away the morning by soaking in the minerals and the sunshine. Later we make our way down Andrássy Utca to the Book Café at the Alexandra bookshop (39 Andrássy Út): this is a famous Budapest institution – and we can see why, as we undo our healthy morning by scoffing cherry cake, blueberry mousse cake and excellent coffee under the frescoes and gleaming chandeliers.

Old and new, interwoven; we are sensing something of the essence of Budapest now. The city is like a set of developing photographs: different versions of buildings and landscapes slowly assume their current shapes. The next day at Művészetek Palotája or MUPA AUGUST 2014

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Reading list

(1 Komor Marcell Utca, +36 1555 3301; mupa.hu), the ultra-modern and monumental Palace of Arts by the Danube on the south side of Pest, we see one such form. “We want to be an agora of art,” says Csaba Káel, who runs the complex, “and to belong to Budapest and Hungary – and further afield too.”

The magnificent building, which is the largest arts complex in central Europe, was completed in 2005 and houses the superb Béla Bartók concert hall, Ludwig contemporary art gallery and Festival theatre.

In the afternoon, we walk over the Chain Bridge and climb the hill of Buda, crowned by Buda Castle (2 Szent György Tér), the Habsburg palace that is now home to the Hungarian National Gallery (mng.hu) and Budapest History Museum (btm.hu). A panorama twinkles below us and the castle is floodlit to spectacular effect – but the impermanent nature of the building (and of the whole of 102 |

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ILLUSTRATION BY KATHI BURKE

Imre Kertész (b. 1929) was the recipient of the 2002 Nobel Prize for Literature. A Hungarian Jew, he survived imprisonment as a teenager in Auschwitz and Buchenwald; much of his writing, including his novel Fateless and his memoir Dossier K, explores the experience of the Holocaust and its legacy. Magda Szabó (1917-2007) was one of Hungary’s best-known writers: in The Door, she explores the relationship between two women through a prism of class and tense psychology. László Krasznahorkai (b. 1954) was described

by Susan Sontag as “the contemporary Hungarian master of the apocalypse”.

He is best known for his novel Satantango, which is both dense and earthily funny. As for Irish writers on Hungary: in Trick the Lock, poet Claire O’Connor wanders through the streets of Budapest, setting scenes in the markets, up in the Gods at the Opera – and in a kitchen, making cinnamonwarm Hungarian cherry soup.

Budapest, come to that) has been underscored by the museum’s exhibitions on the city through the ages: one Buda Castle after another has been built, destroyed, rebuilt through the ages. The current structure, imposing though it is, in fact dates only from the post-war years, when Hungary’s Communist government set out to rebuild a Budapest ruined by conflict.

We walk back over the Chain Bridge – and again we turn to look at the Danube and the glittering lights of modern Budapest. I see the city more clearly now. In my mind’s eye, it develops slowly: swept and scoured by history, and remade once again – and for this very reason, aware of the pleasures, vivid and transient, of the here and now.

For more info, visit gotohungary.com Tram no 19, which runs along the banks of the Danube on the Buda side.

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SHOPPING | BEING THERE

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SHOPPING BREAKS

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Paris

Paris is renowned for its popular flea markets and the one at Porte de Clignancourt, aka Les Puces (The Fleas), is the most famous. It can be tricky to navigate as all the stalls seem to run into each other, but you can download an app called “Keys to the Fleas”, which has guidelines and a map. Marché Le Passage (Le Passage 18 Rue Jules Vallès et 27 Rue Lécuyer, +33 608 018 089) is an entire lane at Les Puces, which is full of extravagant vintage clothing and accessories from around the world.

Marché aux Puces de Montreuil in the 20th arrondissement is one of the oldest flea markets in the city, dating back to the 1900s. If you love costume jewellery, then this is the best place to pick up something distinctly Parisian. With more than 500 outdoor stalls, it has the feel of a traditional market where haggling is encouraged.

If you want something a little more modern, try the cool, cobblestone streets of the Le Marais district – home to the most chic Parisian brands such as Maje, Zadig et Voltaire, Sandro, The Kooples and Rag & Bone as well as my two favourite vintage shops, Free P Star (20 Rue de Rivoli, +33 142 776 343; freepstar. com) and Coiffeur Vintage (32 Rue de Rosiers) – a tiny vintage shop always packed with trend-savvy girls.

Sightsee at … Montmartre is a bit of a trek just for food but it’s a typically French, charismatic village on the top of a hill where you can see all of Paris, enjoy numerous street performers and artists. Expect tourist prices at outdoor restaurants … but mostly it’s worth it.

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SHOPPING | BEING THERE

London High-street fashion was the brainchild of the British, so there's nowhere better than London to indulge in some fast-fashion and affordable shopping.

Oxford Street is the obvious first port of call for all the top brands and adjacent to it is Regent Street, where you will find popular brands such as J Crew, Aquascutum and Barbour; you can even download an app (regentstreetonline. com) with a map of stores for a personalised shopping experience.

Carnaby Street (carnaby. co.uk) is a quirky take on high street shopping, with an eclectic mix of funkier brands and smaller independent shops down side lanes. Lamuete (37 Marshall Street, +44 207 287 0221) is the epitome of elegance and has become the go-to destination for exclusive French labels. It is a haven of hand-picked and luxurious labels, including Gat Rimon and Toupy. For a more exclusive shopping experience, hit the boutiques on King’s Road.

Bimba & Lola (92 King’s Road, +44 207 584 8174; bimbaylola. com) is a Spanish label that has been slowly taking over the Chelsea fashion crew; the label has a youthful aesthetic with luxe separates and exciting accessories, pictured, and is in good company among the many new boutiques.

Stop at … Avoid central London for overpriced food; instead, try places such as Camden Market street vendors where the cobblestoned streets, rich aroma of hundreds of cuisines and the hustle and bustle make it an experience in itself.

If market food isn’t quite your thing, then Gilgamesh (The Stables Market, Chalk Farm Road, +44 207 428 4922; gilgameshbar. com) should be top of your list.

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Milan Considering Milan is known as an haute couture powerhouse, you would expect the shopping to be on the more expensive side. But Milan is also home to some of the best outlet stores, where all the locals do their shopping.

My personal favourite is Milan’s longest established outlet, Il Salvagente (Via Fratelli Bronzetti, +39 02 7611 0328; salvagentemilano. it/en). Known to the Milanese as “the lifesaver”, it's for the entire family, with three floors of Italian designer goodies displayed by size and colour for an easier shopping experience.

If you prefer something a little more reserved but still at a discount, try the luxury outlet Fidenza Village on the city outskirts (Fidenza, Parma, +39 052 433 551; fidenzavillage.com) for brands such as Missoni, Armani and Valentino RED as well as smaller labels.

At Wait and See (Via Santa Marta 14, +39 027 208 0195; waitandsee.it), prices start at €50. The philosophy la vita è bella (life is beautiful) is evident throughout, thanks to its owner, designer Uberta Zambeletti, right.

Take your time here, grab a coffee, and take in all the quirky designs.

Gawp at … Armani Privé Bar (1 Via Pisoni, +39 026 231 2655; armaniristorante.com) is sophisticated, sexy and slightly pretentious (in the best possible way).

The interior is signature minimalist Armani, with the purest of white walls, white leather seats and bright pops of orange. It’s the perfect spot to people-watch.

SHOPPING | BEING THERE

Amsterdam If you want a shopping experience like no other, then you must visit the quaint streets of Amsterdam – not just for the picturesque location but for the original, diverse selection of stores.

The Jordaan district is an alternative shopping haven where boutique owners pride themselves on the personal touch and are known for giving passers-by coffees, chats and the history of the beautiful buildings. There you will find shops such as Restored (39 Haarlemmerdijk, +31 20 337 6473; restored.nl) a fashion boutique that also sells pretty hand-made interior design items. Or Sukha (110 Haarlemmerstraat, +31 20 664 5478; sukhaamsterdam.nl) an eco-friendly hot-spot, pictured, known for its conceptual windows and visual displays, and selling Dutch-made pieces, from cute hand-made knitted mittens to kitchen tables.

The Frozen Fountain (Prinsengracht, +31 20 622 9375; frozenfountain.nl) is a prime example of Dutch creativity and enterprise. This large, museum-like space is used to display design furniture and art installations, while selling and promoting emerging new talent as well as established names. Check out the cool recycled wood furniture by Piet Hein Eek. Lunch at ‌ As with most things Dutch, they like to be unique, and the Restaurant Stout is no different (73 Haarlemmerstraat, +31 20 616 3664; restaurantstout.nl). Stout means naughty in Dutch and the cheeky little menu changes every six weeks.

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Dublin

Copenhagen Danish fashion is cool, wearable and fast becoming internationally known. Not only are designers such as Malene Birger, Acne and A.F. Vandevorst earning recognition, but Copenhagen hosts the country’s biggest fashion week too.

A must-visit destination in the capital is Stig P (Kronprinsensgade 14, +45 3314 4216; stigp.net), which has been in business since 1970.

It sells the usual international designers, but also promotes local brands such as Imelda, Alis and its own in-house designer label.

Storm (Store Regnegade 1, +45 3393 0014; stormfashion.dk) is definitely one of the coolest pit-stops for men and women, with labels such as Billionaire Boys Club and Ann Demeulemeester. It has a hipster vibe and is conceptual with everything from shoes,

fragrance, art and design, coffee tables, magazines and jewellery.

One of the best ways to get around Copenhagen and seeing all that the modern urban city has to offer is by bike. Head to Nørrebro, an edgy area drenched in artistic graffiti.

It is full of organic food stalls, an astonishing number of wool and fabric shops and quirky, independently owned boutiques. Fünf (Elmegade 2, +45 3537 1380; funf.dk), above, is a funky design collective run by four designers who sell their designs – Froks, Tolsing, Sophia Lee and Em Fau – from the workspace.

Celeb spot at ... Al fresco at Café Viktor (Ny Østergade 8, +45 3313 3613; cafevictor.dk). It is a slightly pricey but a fabulously historic café, so it’s a must-do at least once in your life.

Dublin is fast becoming a fashion hub, bursting with incredible independent boutiques, local designers and concept stores.

Atelier 27 (27 Drury Street, 01 679 1211), below, is dedicated to cutting-edge designers (such as Zoe Carol Wong, Jocelyn Murray Boyne and Colin Horgan) who create and sell their own brands all under one roof in the Om Diva building. The colourful interior, fairy lights and chintzy décor give the shop a fun-loving vibe, while the cute upstairs layout makes you feel like you're sneaking into your sister’s bedroom to rummage through her wardrobe.

A fashion favourite is Folkster (Eustace Street, Temple Bar, folkster.com) who just found new premises in Dublin, to build on the success of its Kilkenny store. Renowned for unique kimonos and statement necklaces, it now stocks vintage one-off bridal dresses too. Owner Blanaid Hennessy has an incredible eye for buying fashion, and part of the store is dedicated to their homeware collection called Gild and Cage, where shabby-chic meets original design.

Nearby don’t miss Siopaella (8a Crow Street, 01 532 1477; siopaella.com) a consignment store bursting with perfectly curated, second-hand goodies.

On the hunt for hipster menswear? Then look no further than Indigo & Cloth (9 Essex Street East, Temple Bar, 01 670 6403; indigoandcloth.com). With Scandi brands such as Hentsch Man and Sandqvist, it’s the go-to for cool, contemporary and effortless men’s clothing.

Hang out at … Treat yourself to a FroYo in Yogism (Unit 23, Georges Street Arcade; yogism.ie); stay next door at Kelly’s boutique hotel (36 South Great Georges Street, 01 648 0010; kellysdublin.com) and party in the “Bar with No Name” on Fade Street.

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NYC & ALEXANDER THOMPSON

SHOPPING | BEING THERE

New York So you want to shop like you’re one of the Sex and the City girls, but on a budget more like Annie? Well, New York isn’t all about the Madison Avenue designer price tags ...

Sample sales offer high-end merchandise with mark-downs of up to 80 per cent, where you can nab designer stock for bargain prices. One of the best is Clothing Line (261 West 36th Street, +212 947 8748; clothingline.com) with brands such as Helmut Lang, Nanette Lepore and Tory Burch or check out Garment District (garmentdistrictnyc.com) for a list of all the upcoming sample sales.

Michaels (1041 Madison Avenue, +1 212 737 7273; michaelsconsignment. com) is the most prestigious consignment store in New York. Sixty years old, it is a hub of luxury goods, left, usually left

by Park Avenue “princesses” who wear Chanel only once, but you can still expect high prices here.

Ina (15 Bleecker Street, +1 212 228 8511; inanyc.com) is a more modern take on consigning, with current designers such as Thakoon and Zac Posen. It has a cool industrial interior with carefully curated stock so it’s easy to shop in and is so popular it now has six stores across the city catering for both sexes.

Stay off the beaten track for more unusual purchases; Condor (259 Elizabeth Street, +1 212 966 4280) in Nolita is a lifestyle boutique embodying a chic and bold aesthetic, carrying a variety of unknown contemporary brands with many one-of-a-kind pieces.

Refuel at … Fancy some killer brunch before your shopping spree? Try Clinton Street Baking Co (4 Clinton Street, +1 212 646 602 6263; clintonstreetbaking. com) – they don’t take bookings and you may end up queuing for a while, but it's worth the wait.

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO PARIS DAILY; FROM DUBLIN, CORK, SHANNON AND BELFAST TO LONDON HEATHROW DAILY, DAILY FROM DUBLIN AND KNOCK TO LONDON GATWICK AND DAILY FROM DUBLIN TO LONDON SOUTHEND; DUBLIN TO MILAN LINATE DAILY AND FIVE DAYS A WEEK TO MILAN MALPENSA; DAILY FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO AMSTERDAM; DAILY FROM DUBLIN TO COPENHAGEN; TWICE DAILY FROM DUBLIN AND SIX TIMES A WEEK FROM SHANNON TO NEW YORK.

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Steakhouses & Bars

SIX GENERATIONS OF MEAT PAR EXCELLENCE

The Buckley Family has built a reputation as purveyors of quality meats for over six generations. Francis Xavier opened his first butcher shop on Moore Street in 1930 and this soon became a well-known Dublin institution.

Since then it was part of a natural progression to open our own steakhouses and bars around the city and serve our famous beef from our butchers to your table.

F.X.BUCKLEY STEAKHOUSE PEMBROKE ST 1a Lower Pembroke St, Dublin 2 T: 01 676 4606 F.X.BUCKLEY STEAKHOUSE TEMPLE BAR 2 Crow St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2. T: 01 671 1248 BULL & CASTLE STEAKHOUSE & THE BUTCHERS BAR 5-7 Lord Edward St, Christchurch, Dublin 2. T: 01 475 1122 RYAN’S VICTORIAN PUB & F.X.BUCKLEY STEAKHOUSE 28 Parkgate St, Dublin 8. T: 01 677 6097 WWW.FXBUCKLEY.IE

Mention this ad and receive a complimentary glass of our own Buckley’s Golden Ale with your meal.

clIffS of mohEr ENNIS

co. clarE

ShaNNoN aIrport

Close encounters

Argentine tango is alive and kicking in Ireland, finds Strictly fan Lucy White.

f the first rule of Argentine tango club is not to arrive to a milonga with either garlic or booze breath then I’ve stumbled at the first hurdle. Having earlier lubricated my nerves with a glass of Dutch courage and a pungent “japas”, my pal and I (safety in numbers) start rooting around our bags for even a stale piece of chewing gum before heading to the basement of Dublin’s Globe bar …

There, every Thursday evening the cellar turns into a sultry Buenos Aires bar. We’re sussing out Compadrito Tango (tangofever.net), an Argentine tango community and dance teaching company – and the host of the 12th International Tango Festival in Dublin on August 21-24. I’ve a private lesson booked a few days later and want to see what I’m letting myself in for.

“Sensuality,” says Lesley, a twinkly-eyed, white-pony-tailed tango teacher from Dingle.

“Obsession,” adds Antonio, a smart Portuguese chap who, by day, works in software and by night, trips the light fantastic at several tango classes. With all different ages, shapes, sizes and nationalities here, it couldn’t be any more inclusive. Relief!

“You don’t need a partner to Blame Strictly Come take Argentine Tango classes.

Dancing, but over the past Most people join on their own. decade I’ve dabbled in During the class partners rotate so burlesque, salsa, bellydancing, that everybody gets a chance to the jive, Charleston, foxtrot, dance. A great way of making lots of waltz and cha-cha-cha. That new friends!”

I’m a jack of all genres and a mistress of none is not “No previous dance the point; any exercise that experience is required to join. involves heels and a slick of red All the basics are taught in the lipstick is alright with me. beginners classes.”

My amigo and I marvel from the sidelines at the fancy “Several studies have shown footwork honed from many, the many benefits of dancing many classes. Partners are Argentine tango: it improves swapped, with many of the posture, beats stress, tones your milongueras, their eyes closed, body, improves concentration and resting their heads lightly co-ordination, increases confidence, against their partners’. Lesley and boosts your social life.” was right about sensual.

I

Simona Zaino’s tango tips

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Ganchos style – guest teachers at Dublin’s International Tango Festival, Leandro Furlan and Gaia Pisauro get into position.

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TANGO | MASTERCLASS

“I occasionally close my eyes to – in the hallowed words of Patrick Swayze – feel the music, which helps and hinders in equal measure; oftentimes I have no idea where I am on the dancefloor.”

Italian born Simona Zaino set up Compadrito Tango with her Spanish dance partner Hernan Catvin a decade ago. They perform regularly at festivals, including in last year’s Maria de Buenos Aires at the Cork Opera House. “Argentine tango is an improvised dance, it’s about anticipating your partner’s next move,” she explains of milonga.

The key to this is the embrazo, or close embrace. “Without that close, upper-body connection you can’t intuit anything,” says Simona. No pressure, so.

Hernan invites me to the dancefloor, and, flustered, I accept.

We gently sway on the spot to feel each other’s weight, the snug proximity of a total stranger instantly unnerving. “Have you ever been to Argentina before?” he asks.

“I wish,” I reply. “But I love Strictly, and I’ve seen Midnight Tango. And, um, Evita….” I trail off.

I occasionally close my eyes to – in the hallowed words of Patrick Swayze – feel the music, which helps and hinders in equal measure; oftentimes I have no idea where I am on the dancefloor. However, I’m enjoying this Argentine tango business. I am now ready for my private class …

“Hello again Antonio – here are my two left, flat feet”, I preface to my partner a few days later, before Simona introduces me to the all-important Argentine tango walk. It is painstakingly slow, and for someone whose core is as uggle stable as the peso, I struggle to maintain balance. I’m then put into hold, which you’d hope might be a ver steadying influence, however the man is not there to keep the woman upright – he’s her mirror image for every transference of weight from foot to foot. Knees are kept soft, and the whole length of the man and woman’s arms are connected so that he can signal movement with just a subtle twist of the upper body.

From here, I learn when to do the cross – literally cross my left foot in front of the right – before moving into the ocho, the quintessential figure-of-eight step. It’s way harder than it looks. Much to Antonio’s glee, I then attempt what might be described (in Strictly Ballroom) as “flashy, crowd pleasing steps”, flicking my heels up behind me. This is all

Top right, Lucy White rests her two left, flat feet, while Simona Zaina and Hernan Catvin get their groove on. Below, Daiana Guspero and Miguel Angel Zotto, and Murat and Michelle Erdemsel in action – guest dancers at this year’s Catania Tango Festival.

wrong – in a crowded, sweaty club, you’d be hoofing your fellow dancers in the shins. The trick is to keep your heels together, compact, grounded to the floor.

Now having a sequence, we put all of the above to music, from perky old 1920s ditties that evoke dusty gramophones and tea dresses to later smouldering numbers that summon trilbies and fever-red lace. While I won’t be giving Flavia Cacace sleepless nights, I just about manage: I’ve been truly Tango’d.

Baby steps ...

1 PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICMAC

Catania Tango Festival, Sicily One of Simona’s favourite annual tango events, this nine-day fiesta is now in its 14th year, and bursting with milongas, workshops, seminars and shows, left.

Holiday packages are available. August 9-17, cataniatangofestival.com

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UChicago Tango Fest, Chicago The University of Chicago hosts its second annual tango fest – cue

AUGUST 2014

five milongas, twelve workshops, a masterclass and loads of foot-tapping live music. August 7-10, uctango.org/festival

3

Tango Week, Amsterdam Replacing Tangomagia, this Netherlands event will turn up the heat between Christmas and New Year, with milongas, demonstrations, classes, orchestras, social and show dances.

December 26-31, tangoweek.nl

UNDERSTANDING CHANGE

Trusted construction advisor Dublin

2014

WEDDING AWARDS WINNER

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BEING THERE | WINDSOR

48 hours in

Windsor

THE ROYAL COLLECTION© 2010, HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II - MARK FIENNES

Just 30 minutes’ drive from Heathrow, Windsor is a quaint getaway in the English countryside. With its rich history and famous castle, it makes the perfect choice for a mini-break, says Lisa Hughes. Oh, and it has Legoland too.

TEA TIME

Enjoy a traditional cream tea on board a Victorian steam vessel as you cruise through the grounds of Windsor Castle, August 10 & 24. Visit windsor.gov.uk or visitengland.com for more information.

Don’t miss ...

HISTORY For a town with just 28,000 residents, Windsor has its share of visitors – seven million a year to be exact – and the biggest draw is Windsor Castle. Nestled in the centre of town, this royal residence dates from the 11th century and crowds flock to the castle to watch the Changing of the Guard, see the vault where Henry VIII and a host of royals are buried, and to check out the lavish gold rooms and grand halls. Pop into the ornate St George’s Chapel at 5.15pm and

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hear the choir at daily Evensong.

Magical. (+44 20 7766 7304; royalcollection.org.uk)

Top, the Long Walk is one of the highlights at Windsor Castle, as is the opulent kings' bedroom, above left. Don't miss the Changing of the Guard, above, during your visit.

ART The Thameside town of Cookham, just outside Windsor, has an artsy claim to fame as the birthplace of Stanley Spencer (18911959), one of the 20th century’s most important British artists.

The Stanley Spencer Gallery, a converted Methodist chapel, holds more than 100 of his works. (High Street, Cookham; +44 1628 471 885; stanleyspencer.org.uk)

GREAT OUTDOORS Windsor makes you feel like you’re deep in the countryside even though you’re just outside a major city, and no more so than in the Great Park. Its fivekilometre, tree-lined Long Walk is loved by everyone, from dog walkers to horse riders, including Queen Elizabeth herself, and a stroll along the path is bliss on sunny days. Stop at the café in the Royal Landscape gardens for a scenic pick-me-up. (thecrownestate.co.uk)

Eat at …

LUNCH Windsor has 90 restaurants so finding somewhere to eat isn’t a problem. With restaurants in both Windsor and Cookham, Bel & The Dragon won’t disappoint. Dating from 1417, this popular Windsor lunch spot is one of the oldest licensed houses in England (Thames Street, +44 1753 866 056; belandthedragon.co.uk). Meanwhile, the branch in Cookham (High Street, +44 1628 521 263) boasts an eclectic menu in an original thatched-cottage setting.

AFTERNOON TEA The Crooked House of Windsor, also known as Market Cross House, is Windsor’s very own leaning tower. It dates back

to 1592 and still has a not-so-secret passageway, allegedly used by Nell Gwyn and Charles II, underneath. Pick up a picnic hamper in this traditional tea room and head for the Great Park.

(51 High Street, +44 1753 857 534; crooked-house.com) ROMANTIC Like its sister restaurant in Wimbledon, Côte Brasserie’s awardwinning French cuisine includes a host of Parisian favourites. Overlooking the Thames, this romantic eatery is perfect for a pre-theatre dinner before seeing a show at the Theatre Royal. (71-72 High Street, +44 1753 868 344; cote-restaurants.co.uk)

Sleep at ...

Drink at …

PLUSH Film buffs will recognise the Wyatt-designed Stoke Park Manor from Goldfinger and Layer Cake and the hotel itself is suitably cinematic.

Sprawled across a 121-hectare estate, this five-star hotel, spa and private members’ club rolled into one offers 49 spacious bedrooms and suites, a 27-hole championship golf course and a host of leisure activities. Ask nicely and you might just get the plush Pennsylvania suite where the bedroom scene in Bridget Jones’s Diary was shot. (Park Road, Stoke Poges, +44 1753 717 171; stokepark.com)

CLASSIC If English beer and hearty meals are what you’re after, Two Brewers will be right up your street. Just steps from the Cambridge Gate of the Long Walk, this wood-panelled, old-world-style bar is the perfect spot to quench your thirst after exploring the Great Park. (34 Park Street, +44 1753 855 426; twobrewerswindsor.co.uk)

FAMILY Windsor’s second biggest visitor attraction is Legoland, the UK’s first large-scale homage to the much-loved cult toy. The good news for families (and Lego-obsessed adults) is that you can now stay in the resort’s colourful hotel. With its pirate, adventure and kingdom themed rooms, you won’t find a livelier base to explore Berkshire.

(Winkfield Road, +44 844 844 8099; legoland.co.uk/hotel) BUDGET Cross the bridge from Windsor into Eton and you’ll find Gilbey’s, a thriving, fine-dining restaurant with studio suite accommodation to boot.

Best of all are the rooftop views of Windsor Castle. (82-83 High Street, Eton +44 1753 854 921; gilbeygroup.com)

The pirate room at the Lego Hotel, top, is a hit with kids, and Stoke Park Manor, middle, offers a luxury option. Try Two Brewers pub, above, for English ale.

HOME BREW The Windsor and Eton Brewery was the town’s first brewery in 79 years when it opened in 2010 and, even though its rapidly growing collection of beers is now found in pubs around Windsor and London, the best place to sample the fresh brews is at the brewery. Groups can take a tour and sip home brews such as Knight of the Garter and Windsor Knot for £10 per person.

(1 Vansittart Estate, +44 1753 854 075; webrew.co.uk)

AER LINGUS FLIES DAILY FROM DUBLIN, CORK AND SHANNON TO LONDON HEATHROW AND FROM DUBLIN AND KNOCK TO GATWICK.

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MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

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LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie

NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie

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Ther is something There tha that draws me to a fa family-run business, as the service you get is us usually the honest type.

Mi Milliners MUTINELLI is one of these very est establishments. I’ve pick picked up a few hats he here and I’ll be back fo for more. (Corso Bu Buenos Aires 5, +3 +39 02 2952 3594; mut mutinellicappellimilano. co com)

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

Milan

Whether it’s design or dinner you’re after, Dubliner Brian Hussey points the way in the Italian city he now calls home.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALICE SCHILLACI / GUIDO BARBAGELATA

A nice place to stay in the Porta Romana area is CASCINA CUCCAGNA. It is, among other things, a hostel, a restaurant, a bar or just a place to take it easy. The large garden area is the real draw. Take a seat and watch the Milanese sit and sun themselves.

(Via Cuccagna 2/4, +39 02 8342 1007; cuccagna.org) There are quite a few new ice cream parlours cropping up around Piazza Cinque Giornate, but if you want authenticity then GELATERIA UMBERTO is for you. The flavours don’t come in abundance but your choice will end up precise and, without doubt, enjoyable.

(Piazza Cinque Giornate 4, +39 02 545 8113)

A hostel by trade, OSTELLO BELLO fills up with revellers at night, but it is a great spot for lunch.

The Milanese prefer to frequent traditional Italian eateries so lunch here will be a pleasant surprise, with its assortment of interesting furniture and books. (Via Medici 4, +39 02 3658 2720; ostellobello.com)

Is ther there anything ythin more st stressful ful tha than getting ttin your hair cut? I can recall bringing a hat to the barbers just in case they “got it wrong” ... So imagine trying to ask for what you want in a different language! BULLFROG MODERN ELECTRIC BARBER is an amazing place. The barbers here are classically trained and extremely meticulous. Dare I say it, you won’t need to bring a hat. (Via Thaon Di Revel 3, +39 02 3653 1983; bullfrogbarbershop.it)

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Whenever I have guests in town I take them to one of my regular haunts, TRATTORIA MADONNINA. That perfect Italian restaurant feeling is unmistakable here. (Via Gentilino 6, +39 02 8940 9089; trattoria-lamadonnina.it)

A SANTA LUCIA is right in the Duomo area but doesn’t seem to attract the tourists. It’s a great place to go for lunch. The walls are adorned corner to corner with photos of Italian celebrities. You’ll be hard pressed to name one, but you may well leave feeling like a celebrity from the delicious food you’ve just had. (Via San Pietro all’Orto 3, +39 02 7602 3155; asantalucia.it)

Opened in 1934,, PISCINA COZZI wass Italy’s first indoor or swimming pool. From Milan the coast is a 90-minute trip by train or car so if you fancyy a dip this Art Deco co swimming pool is ideal..

(Viale Tunisia 35,, +39 02 659 9703))

If staying around the Tricolore area, then SISSI is a great place to start your day. It’s an extremely busy pasticceria, but the queue is worth the wait. The majority of people stand at the counter but it has a lovely little garden area if you want to sit down and soak up the atmosphere. It’s SenegaleseItalian run and all its niceties are made on the day every day. (Piazza Risorgimento 6, +39 02 7601 4664)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALICE SCHILLACI

More about Brian

Dubliner Brian Hussey met his Roman girlfriend in his native city eleven years ago and has lived in Milan just over two and a half years now. He is a copy editor for an advertising agency, and also does voiceovers for documentaries and radio commercials. He finds Milan has a slower pace of life compared to other busy cities so, to speed things up at the weekend, he races around the countryside on his bicycle with a group of German expats. The rest of the time is spent with his 18-month-old daughter, above, whose Italian is slightly better than his.

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GIARDINI DI VILLA REALE DI PALESTRO is a wonderful park situated in the museum area exclusively for parents and children. My little girl loves to visit. Here she can play with other kids or gaze in amazement at the turtles, fish and ducks. (Via Palestro)

I’m not one for getting dragged around shops by my partner but one shop that I did see, and that she loves, is WAIT AND SEE. For the female visitor this shop is a must, you’ll love it, just wait and see!

(Via Santa Marta 14, +39 02 7208 0195; waitandsee.it)

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO MILAN LINATE DAILY.

Slattery’s Bar Open at 7am

C A P E L

S T R E E T

THE WORLD FAMOUS SLATTERY’S TRADITIONAL BAR

Dublin City’s Number 1 Traditional Night The Guinness Hooley Night Featuring Traditional Irish Music, Dancing and Storytelling plus 3 Course Irish Menu. All only €40

BOOK ONLINE AT SLATTERYSBAR.COM

The National Cathedral of Saint Patrick Dublin

Open from 7am for award winning Irish breakfast

All major sports shown across our ten screens Full traditional menu served all day Irish Music 7 nights a week The most famous pint of Guinness in Dublin

Significant First World War and Remembrance Exhibition opening in July

Open Daily For Visitors phone: 01 4539472 | web: stpatrickscathedral.ie

129 Capel St, Dublin 1

+ 353 (0)1 874 6 8 44

BEING THERE | FARO

3 hot hotels ...

SPOTLIGHT FARO Compiled by Niamh Wade

TOP TABLES Faro has a working harbour, so it’s not surprising that fish features strongly on menus. Step through the arch into the old town and you’ll find a good variety of eateries. Close to the Cathedral is Tertúlia Algarvia (Praça Afonso 111, +351 289 821 044; tertulia-algarvia.pt). The large terrace attracts sun-worshippers and the menu features various traditional Algarve delicacies, left. Deciding what to order in Faz Gostos (Rua do Castelo 13, +351 289 878 422; fazgostos.com) may take a while. This Michelin-starred restaurant offers a contemporary take on classic Algarve cuisine. Overlooking the Ria Formosa Natural Park, O Castelo (11 Rua do Castelo, +351 289 822 244; facebook.com/ OcasteloCidadeVelha) has a chilled-out vibe and great views.

3 must-dos ...

MODERN Hotel Eva Standing tall at the edge of the marina, this modern four-star hotel with 134 rooms is ideally placed. If you get hungry and decide to stay put, the hotel’s two restaurants offer local and international options with beautiful sea views to go with them. To truly unwind, saunter along to the spa or relax in the sun by the rooftop pool and enjoy the panoramic views. Rooms from €93. tdhotels.com

CENTRAL Aqua Ria Boutique Hotel As the name suggests, this 17-bedroom hotel is a boutique-style property.

The design is modern, and so are the facilities: Wi-Fi is included. It’s right on the main shopping street, yet only a few steps from the old town and marina. There’s lots of vibrant nightlife nearby and the hotel’s à la carte restaurant will keep hunger pangs at bay. B&B from €115.

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MARVEL AT … FIESA International Sand Sculpture Festival About 30 minutes from Faro in Pêra, a strange sight awaits: 12-metre-high sand sculptures of Bono, Mozart, Amy Winehouse and other celebrities and historical figures. Some 40,000 tonnes of sand have been transformed into nearly 70 tableaux. You can even sculpt your own. Running until October 25. fiesa.org

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EXPLORE … Ria Formosa Parque Natural This coastal lagoon system is one of the seven Natural Wonders of Portugal.

The park is teeming with wildlife: 20,000 sea birds and the biggest seahorse population in the world.

You can explore the area by boat or kayak, or on an official walking tour. Stay for sunset and let the Mar Taxi Faro ferry you back to town. lands.pt

LISTEN TO … Receital de Guitarra Portuguesa If you enjoy culture, sit in on a 30-minute Portuguese guitar session in the Municipal Museum in the old town and listen to João Cuña go through his repertoire. The photo exhibition will keep you entertained pre or post gig too – ideal respite from the daytime sun. recitalguitarraportuguesa. com

OUT OF TOWN Memmo Baleeira Situated in Sagres, just over an hour from Faro, the Memmo Baleeira offers laid-back luxury. It’s perched on the top of a cliff, so the restaurant has wonderful views.

If you can peel yourself off the pool-side lounger, take a hotel bike and explore Sagres Fort at Europe’s most southwesterly point. B&B from €95 including bike hire and a bottle of rosé. mrandmrssmith.com

KILKEA CASTLE G O L F & S PA R E S O R T

Re-opening in March 2015 after 5 years and extensive refurbishment Kilkea Castle Hotel and Golf resort is one of Ireland’s premier wedding ceremony and reception venues. Renowned for its breath taking grounds, delicious food and excellent service you can be guaranteed a fairy tale wedding & special event.

Centrally located in County Kildare, guests can avail of the various accommodation available and amenities such as our 18 Hole, par 70 Championship Golf Course or state of the art leisure centre and spa.

A visit to Kilkea Castle is a step back in time, where our guests will be surrounded by History, decadence and indulgence, it’s a place where memories are made.

059 914 5555

• 059 914 5505 • INFO@KILKEACASTLE.IE • KILKEA, CASTLEDERMOT, CO. KILDARE. 30 MINUTES FROM DUBLIN WWW.KILKEACASTLE.IE

GREAT CARE FROM THE GROUND UP At Aer Lingus, we take great care in everything we do - from baggage handling, to catering, to customer care. The people you see, and the people you don’t, are all dedicated to making you feel welcome, every step of your journey. Great care on every level - it’s one of the many ways Aer Lingus takes care of you.

Great Care. Great Fare.

InflIght EntErtaInmEnt BOX OFFICE

See pages 130 and 131 for the latest movies!

ClaSSIC fIlmS / IrISh ShOrt fIlmS / IrISh fEatUrE fIlmS

THE GREEN MILE

LITTLE MISS SUNSHINE

THE DARK KNIGHT

FRANK

Starring Michael Clarke Duncan

Starring Steve Carell

Starring Heath Ledger

Starring Michael Fassbender

Classic Films · Crazy Heart · The Departed · The Legend Of Bagger Vance · MASH · There’s No Business Like Show Business · Analyze That · Little Miss Sunshine

Irish Films · In America · Great Expectations · Batman Begins · The Dark Knight · The Dark Knight Rises · Cleopatra · How To Steal A Million · The Beach · Rio

· Brubaker · Farewell To Arms · Dangerous Liaisons · Empire Of The Sun · Doctor Zhivago · Full Metal Jacket · Training Day · The Green Mile

· The Shed · Breathe In · Lean On Me · Jerry Fish at Windmill Lane · Frank · Living the Tradition

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INFLIGHT

Welcome Aboard Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you.

Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend

Tá

that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight. Your seat must be in the upright position during take-off and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

SMOKING In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no-smoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking cigarettes or e-cigarettes is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time.

with Aer Lingus. sant flight. Thank you for choosing to fly plea and ble forta com a have you e hop We as taisteal le hAer Lingus. eamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat taitn ach pord com s tura onn mbí go nn suil agai

Please note Mobile phones and all other portable electronic equipment such as tablet computers, mp3 players and e-readers must be switched to flight safe or the equivalent airplane mode if you wish to use them during taxi, take-off, in-flight or landing, or switched to flight safe mode and then off if you wish to use in-flight only. If your device does not have a flight safe mode, then it must be switched off and stowed for the duration of the flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone provided it is within easy reach, you must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

DEVICES PERMITTED AT ✔ ANY TIME Devices powered by micro battery

cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

DEVICES PERMITTED IN ● FLIGHT ONLY* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-

disk player, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using a laptop, please ensure that Wi-Fi is turned off, unless you are connecting to the Aer Lingus Wi-Fi network on our A330 aircraft. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/initial climb/approach/ landing

DEVICES PROHIBITED ✘ AT ALL TIMES Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg, mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg, supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg, Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

On A330 aircraft, to avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network you need to switch off the flight safe mode on your device once advised that it is safe to do so by crew.

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Visit Francis

Street ANTIQUES QUARTER OF DUBLIN

FRANCIS STREET

THE LIBERTIES

DUBLIN 8

CASTLETOWN House, Courtyard Café, Parklands, Events & Conference Centre An Italian Palazzo in the Liffey Valley House open daily for tours from 15th March to 31st October, 10am-6pm. Last admission 5pm including The Berkeley Costume exhibition. Admission charges apply.

Free admission daily to the Toy exhibition, restored 18th Century Parklands & River Walks.

Please refer to www.castletown.ie for information on: The Berkeley Costume & Toy exhibition, Lecture Series, Free Music Recitals, Country Markets & Craft Fairs, Tours, Children’s Tours, Workshops and more...

Just 20km from Dublin City. Parking: Exit 6, M4, Celbridge West.

Dublin Bus: 67 to historic Celbridge village, birthplace of Arthur Guinness and 10 minute walk through parklands.

c e l b r i d g e | c o. k i l d a r e | t : + 3 5 3 1 6 2 8 8 2 5 2 | e : c a s t l e to w n @ o p w. i e | w w w. c a s t l e to w n . i e

INFLIGHT

Aer Lingus news BID NOW, PAY LATER UPGRADES

Launched earlier this year, the Upgrade Yourself programme invites customers to bid to upgrade their flight to Business Class on Aer Lingus transatlantic services.

Make us an offer to upgrade your transatlantic economy booking, and you could be travelling in style in our Business Cabin. You tell us how much you are willing to pay, and if your bid is successful, you can savour the Aer Lingus Business Class experience on your flight. So why not chance your arm and treat yourself to the additional luxury? Full details of the programme are available at aerlingus.com/travelinformation/ planandbook/upgradeyourself.

A MAJESTIC MOVE Aer Lingus has moved its London Heathrow operations to Terminal 2, now known as ‘The Queen’s Terminal’, having been officially opened

by Queen Elizabeth and the Duke of Edinburgh on June 23, 2014. The terminal will service a total of 48 flights per day, half departing and half arriving, and linking Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast City with London.

Customers will enjoy many new benefits, ensuring the best possible experience when travelling to and from Heathrow. For instance, there are now shorter walking distances – a 50 per cent reduction in gate-to-kerb time, while flight connections are also quicker and seamless thanks to reduced transfer times and same-terminal connections made possible with a number of Aer Lingus partner airlines, including United Airlines and Air Canada.

Arriving into T2 is quick

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and easy, with direct access to transport links, including the Heathrow Express – meaning Paddington Station can be reached in just 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, Check-In is conveniently located inside the main Departures area in Zone C. Aer Lingus Business Class and Gold Circle customers have use of Gold Circle Check-In, fast-track security facilities and can now enjoy a brand new state-of-the-art Gold Circle Lounge. This is 50 per cent larger than its predecessor, and has been designed to the highest levels of comfort and style. A special feature of the new lounge is the five-metre high external glass wall offering relaxing views of the airfield. Other enhanced features include showering facilities, meeting rooms and a quiet area, making for a calm environment in which to work or just relax.

AER LINGUS FIRSTS Inaugural flights and events in August through the decades …

1939

On August 4, one of the recently-delivered Aer Lingus Lockheed 14s operated a special flight from Dublin to the new airport at Rineanna (Shannon) bringing the thenTaoiseach (prime minister) Éamon de Valera to see off the first Westbound Imperial Airways transatlantic mail service, operated by Short S.30 C Class flying boat G-AFCV “Caribou”. The historic departure took place on the evening of August 5, and Mr de Valera stayed overnight at Foynes, returning to Baldonnel on the same Lockheed 14 as had brought him to Rineanna two days earlier.

1940

Aer Lingus operated a series of Sunday flights from Dublin for sightseeing using the lightlytasked Douglas DC-3 starting on August 18. The flights lasted several hours, and included a landing at Shannon and a tour of developments at the airport. The flights also included sightseeing over famous beauty spots including south and west Kerry. Flight magazine for October 10 reported that Aer Lingus had just completed a very successful season of these tours, which were invariably booked out early in the week for the following Sunday’s flight.

1942

On August 12, Aer Lingus

Lingus Ryder Cup captain and Aer ambassador Paul McGinley s. tests out our new lie-flat bed

Brand new Business Class We’re excited to bring you details of the brand new Aer Lingus Business Class, which will launch early next year and comprises a brand new Business Class Service and a brand new Business Class Cabin.

The first of our seven Airbus 330 aircraft to feature the new Business Class Cabin will fly in January 2015. All aircrafts will be complete by the end of March 2015 ahead of schedule for the 2015 summer season. As we head towards this exciting transformation, we will be bringing you more and more details of all of the new features and services which will make up our stunning new service.

In the meantime – here’s a sneak peek at other new benefits you can expect to enjoy on-board …

Completely flat two-metre bed – which guarantees the best possible sleep pattern 90 per cent of seats with aisle access New cabin layout On demand food and beverage service

launched its first Irish domestic service, a thrice-weekly DublinShannon route operated by the DH86, below. The service was unsuccessful and suspended on October 30, resuming after the Second World War for more than 50 years.

to be a further 12 months before the airline started scheduled services on the route.

1947

Aer Lingus launched three new routes on August 1, which had been postponed because of delivery delays with the Vickers Viking aircraft.

The routes concerned were Dublin-Glasgow, DublinShannon-London and Dublin-Belfast.

1951

In August, Aer Lingus carried its millionth passenger since services started on May 27, 1936.

1946

Aer Lingus’ first operation to Brussels took place on August 23 when DC-3 EI-ACH, under the command of Captain Darby Kennedy, operated a special charter with delegates for a European conference, but it was

1958

An impressive new terminal building at Lourdes Airport was officially opened on August 23 and because of its major contribution to the development of traffic through the airport, full honours were rendered

to Aer Lingus at the opening ceremonies. Aer Lingus became the biggest user of Lourdes Airport at the time, the 195859 financial year the airline’s busiest ever, with around 54,000 passengers being carried through the facility.

1987

Aer Lingus Boeing 747 EI-ASJ was displayed at the Air Spectacular held at Baldonnel on August 16.

1999

A new simulator worth $14 million for the Airbus A320/321 was delivered to Dublin Airport on August 17, having been purchased from Canada’s CAE Electronics. Aer Lingus had to extend the simulator building in order to house the new equipment. The unit is still in operation, having undergone major upgrades, and is now located at the Simtech facility near Dublin Airport.

Personal storage space for all your travel essentials State-of-the-art inflight entertainment with increased content Night-time quiet cabin Pre-boarding night-time dine services in JFK and Boston New JFK Lounge For more information visit aerlingus.com.

2007

On August 6, Aer Lingus started a Dublin-Washington/ Dulles route with a four-perweek frequency using Airbus A330s. This followed the ratification of the EU-US Open Skies agreement on 22 March 2007, which allowed carriers unrestricted access between points in the EU and US. The route was dropped in October 2009, and Aer Lingus now has a code-share agreement with United Airlines which operates a daily service on the route.

On August 7, Aer Lingus announced that it was to establish its first base outside the Republic of Ireland at Belfast International Airport and operate a network of routes from the airport using three Airbus A320 aircraft starting in December 2007. Aer Lingus moved its Belfast base to Belfast City Airport with effect from October 28, 2012.

AUGUST 2014

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OUTBOUND

Flights to the United States and Canada

Movies

Your entertainment to and from the United States and Canada!

Jewel in Rio 2

THE RIGHT KIND OF WRONG

ROB THE MOB

THE ANGRIEST MAN IN BROOKLyN

FADING GIGOLO

R / Comedy / 1hr 37mins Director Jeremiah S. Chechik Cast Ryan Kwanten, Sara Canning, Ryan McPartlin

R / Crime / 1hr 26mins Director Raymond De Felitta Cast Michael Pitt, Nina Arianda, Andy Garcia

R / Comedy / 1hr 32mins Director Phil Alden Robinson Cast Robin Williams, Mila Kunis, Peter Dinklage

R / Comedy / 1hr 32mins Director John Turturro Cast John Turturro, Woody Allen, Sharon Stone

Leo falls for a woman just as she is about to get married.

A mob robbing couple stumble upon the score of a lifetime.

A man is mistakenly told that he has 90 minutes to live.

Two friends find themselves caught between love and money.

NOAH

THE FACE OF LOvE

THE ART OF THE STEAL

THE OTHER WOMAN

PG-13 / Action / 2hr 18mins Director Darren Aronofsky Cast Russell Crowe, Jennifer Connelly, Anthony Hopkins

PG-13 / Romance / 1hr 32mins Director Arie Posin Cast Robin Williams, Ed Harris, Annette Bening

R / Crime / 1hr 32mins Director Jonathan Sobol Cast Kurt Russell, Jay Baruchel, Katheryn Winnick

PG-13 / Comedy / 1hr 49mins Director Nick Cassavetes Cast Cameron Diaz, Leslie Mann, Kate Upton

An epic story of courage, sacrifice and hope.

A widow falls for a guy who resembles her late husband.

A reformed art thief returns to the game for one last heist.

Carly meets the wife her boyfriend has been betraying.

NEED FOR SPEED

MR. PIP

RIO 2

TOM AND JERRy & THE WIzARD OF Oz

PG-13 / Action / 2hr 12mins Director Scott Waugh Cast Aaron Paul, Dominic Cooper, Imogen Poots

PG-13 / Drama / 2hr 33mins Director Andrew Adamson Cast Hugh Laurie, Kerry Fox, Eka Darville

G / Animation / 1hr 45mins Director Carlos Saldanha Cast Jesse Eisenberg, Anne Hathaway, Jemaine Clement

G / Animation / 1hr 00mins Director Spike Brandt Cast Kath Soucie, Joe Alaskey, Michael Gough

A street racer who was framed seeks out revenge.

A young girl becomes transfixed

by Charles Dickens.

Blu, Jewel and their kids find themselves deep in the Amazon.

Tom and Jerry get whisked away to The land of Oz.

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INBOUND

Flights from the United States and Canada

A

er Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies, trilogies and old favourites that display Hollywood’s talents above and beyond the call of duty. Say hello to actors such as Robin Williams, Cameron Diaz, Johnny Depp, Kevin Costner, Emma Stone, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Aaron Paul, Russell Crowe, Jamie Foxx and Anne Hathaway as they star in movies that range from sci-fi, action and comedy to true-life stories and children’s adventure. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Emma Stone in The Amazing Spider-Man 2

BETTER LIvING THROUGH CHEMISTRy

DRAFT DAy

THE AMAzING SPIDER-MAN 2

TRANSCENDENCE

R / Comedy / 1hr 31mins Director Geoff Moore Cast Sam Rockwell, Olivia Wilde, Michelle Monaghan

R / Sport / 1hr 49mins Director Ivan Reitman Cast Kevin Costner, Chadwick Boseman, Jennifer Garner

PG-13 / Action / 1hr 45mins Director Marc Webb Cast Andrew Garfield, Emma Stone, Jamie Foxx

PG-13 / Drama / 1hr 59mins Director Wally Pfister Cast Johnny Depp, Rebecca Hall, Morgan Freeman

A strait-laced pharmacist's life spirals out of control.

An NFL manager is faced with a tough decision.

Peter Parker faces a slew of super villains.

A scientist has his consciousness uploaded to a computer.

SABOTAGE

BRIGHTEST STAR

CAPTAIN AMERICA: THE WINTER SOLDIER

vERONICA MARS

R / Action / 1hr 49mins Director David Ayer Cast Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sam Worthington, Terrence Howard

PG-13 / Romance / 1hr 20mins Director Maggie Kiley Cast Chris Lowell, Rose McIver, Jessica Szohr

PG-13 / Action / 2hr 20mins Director Anthony Russo Cast Chris Evans, Samuel L. Jackson, Scarlett Johansson

PG-13 / Crime / 1hr 47mins Director Rob Thomas Cast Kristen Bell, Jason Dohring, Enrico Colantoni

Members of an DEA task force rob a drug cartel safe house.

A college graduate sets out to win back his dream girl.

Steve struggles to embrace his role in the modern world.

Veronica Mars returns to her detective ways in her hometown.

300: RISE OF AN EMPIRE

DIvERGENT

COWGIRLS 'N ANGELS 2: DAKOTA'S SUMMER

SCOOBy-DOO! WRESTLEMANIA MySTERy

R / Action / 1hr 43mins Director Noam Murro Cast Sullivan Stapleton, Eva Green, Lena Headey

PG-13 / Sci-Fi / 2hr 29mins Director Neil Burger Cast Shailene Woodley, Theo James, Kate Winslet

PG / Family / 1hr 31mins Director Timothy Armstrong Cast Haley Ramm, Bryan Dechart, Glynn Turman

PG / Animation / 1hr 12mins Director Brandon Vietti Cast Frank Welker, Mindy Cohn, Grey DeLisle

A Greek general leads the charge against invading Persian forces.

Tris must find out what makes the Divergents dangerous.

Dakota Rose learns to navigate life and the rodeo circuit.

Shaggy and the gang help WWE stars to solve a mystery. august 2014

| 131

BranD nEW Drama As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of True Detective, House of Cards and vikings, as well as multiple episodes from the brand new season of Game of Thrones and a return to fan favourite, Burn Notice.

TV COmEDY Multiple-award winning actress Julia Louis-Dreyfus has been captivating audiences with her impeccable comic timing since she played Seinfeld’s Elaine. veep’s Selina Meyer is rather a different sort of role – she’s the ditzy vice-president of the United States, and Louis-Dreyfus gives as much to the character as we’ve come to expect.

Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate two new episodes of It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia or Eastbound and Down. Also available are The Big Bang Theory, Girls, and Hello Ladies.

lIfEStYlE Enjoy highlights of the Big Apple as John Fitzpatrick, CEO of Fitzpatrick Hotels North America, invites us to explore his quintessentially Irish hotel and his version of New York in the TV short, Fitzpatrick Hotels New york. For more on Irish culture, food and music, tune into Imeall, Ceol ar an Imeall, Tales of Irish Castles, The Design Doctors, Kevin Dundon: Modern Irish Food and Anthony Bourdain: The Layover.

In this month's episode of young Hollywood: Evolution Of, we delve into the life of Lady Gaga, from her days as a Juliard student and a singer/songwriter performing under her real name, Stefani Germanotta, to her present day

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status as a music and fashion icon.

Behind the scenes set visits, photoshoots and interview are included for your enjoyment.

Also available are episodes of Derren Brown: Trick Of The Mind, Pawn Stars, Wines of the New World, videofashion Specials, Journey Into Wine and video Killed The Radio Star, featuring the work of Michael Jackson.

DOCUmEntarY Ever wanted to see punk legend Henry Rollins wrestle an alligator?

In Animal Underworld, a new series from National Geographic, Rollins investigates the relationship between humans and some of the world’s most dangerous creatures. From snake handlers to boar hunters, the hardcore giant brings his pithy wit and no-nonsense attitude to bear on the many unusual ways in which we interact with the animal kingdom.

Also on board is the groundbreaking documentary, No Limbs No Limits, which tells the amazing story of Irish woman, Joanne O’Riordan. Born with Tetra-amelia syndrome, an extremely rare condition characterised by the absence of all four limbs, Joanne tells us how she doesn't let her disability limit her life in any way.

The Horsemen, Bullit, Fish Life, Festive Ways, Flavours Of Spain, Inside The American Mob, The Universe: Ancient Mysteries Solved, Megafactories and

Books Into Film are some of the other available titles.

which cast a cold eye over the world of business.

SPOrt

KIDS

In 2008, it was nearly 100 years since Kilkenny won the All Ireland GAA Hurling Championship. With that incentive and the added motivation of overtaking Cork for the top spot in the leader board of most All Ireland titles, 2008 always had the potential to be an historic one. Tune into Kings Of Hurling to relive the epic battle.

Also on board is One Second in F1 Racing, which examines the technology and innovation that goes into each second on the track. World Of Tennis and HSBC Golfing World are some of the other available titles.

Kids will surely enjoy Outopus, a slapstick comedy about five octopus friends, confined to living in a boring fish tank, watching the ocean from their window while planning all sorts of crazy escapes.

Fans of Outopus may also enjoy Sofia the First, a Disney series about a young princess, charming animated series Pip Ahoy! or the hilarious Gazoon. Teens may be more inclined to view and enjoy Austin and Ally, a sitcom about a young internet celebrity.

BUSInESS This month, Bloomberg's Game Changers profiles Warren Buffett, a legendary investor with an astounding success rate, a billionaire forty times over and the most respected businessman in America. Tune in for interviews with Buffett himself, Microsoft co-founder Bill Gates, his Berkshire Hathaway partner Charlie Munger and many more.

Bloomberg's The Mentor, meanwhile, profiles the entrepreneurial duo behind the Swagbucks search engine. Also on board are Enterprise, Eye To Eye, Euronews' Business Planet and Hi-Tech – all of

nEWS & EVEntS In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

trUE DEtECtIVE SEaSOn OnE With an incontestably sparkling record for producing engaging drama, HBO has been making waves in the television market for the last ten years, going so far as to pull our attention from Hollywood with its on the nose, award-winning writing.

The latest crime drama to make waves is True Detective, a cop-show with an existential twist - think less coffee and donuts and more philosophical speeches, cans of Lone Star and awkward silences. Most notable is, perhaps, the show’s elite cast, featuring Matthew McConaughey, fresh from his Oscar win, and prolific character actor, Woody Harrel-

hOUSE Of CarDS SEaSOn OnE House of Cards has rapidly become one of the most popular new shows since its debut on Netflix in 2013. Originally set in Britain in the nineties, Netflix’s political whirlwind drama takes place in present-day Washington, D.C. House of Cards is the story of Frank Underwood (played by Kevin Spacey), a Democrat from South Carolina’s 5th Congressional District and House Majority Whip who, after being passed over for appointment as Secretary of State, decides to exact his revenge on those who betrayed him with the help of his equally cunning wife (played by Robin Wright).

The show received nine of

VIKIngS SEaSOn OnE History buffs, action lovers and Game of Thrones and Rome fans will appreciate this historical drama, which drops the viewer into the sweaty, violent and gruesome world of Viking Ragnar Lothbrok, one of the best-known mythological Norse heroes and notorious as the infamous enemy of England and France.

Ragnar, played by Travis Fimmel, pioneers the first daring raids into England with the support of fellow warriors. His brother Rollo (Clive Standen), and his wife, the shieldmaiden Lagertha (Katheryn Winnick) star as the show’s protagonists.

The series beautifully outlines

son. The pair play an odd-couple of police detectives investigating the seventeen year murder spree of a Louisiana serial killer.

Marty, played by Harrelson, is the straight man to McConaughey’s idiosyncratic ‘Rust’ Cohle; a man just as likely to spew a nihilistic soliloquy as drunkenly incite a bar brawl. As the show slowly progresses, using a multi-timeline narrative, the mystery of the serial killer, as well as the series of events that has left these two middle aged homicide detectives the broken men they are today, are revealed.

In its short run, True Detective has already achieved an obsessive, cult-following and worldwide acclaim amongst the critics.

Not bad for only eight episodes.

“Most notable is, perhaps, the show’s elite cast, featuring Matthew McConaughey, fresh from his Oscar win, and prolific character actor, Woody Harrelson.”

Netflix’s fourteen total nominations for the Primetime Emmy Awards. Among its nine nominations were Outstanding Drama Series, Outstanding Lead Actor in a Drama Series for Kevin Spacey, Outstanding Lead Actress in a Drama Series for Robin Wright, and Outstanding Directing for a Drama Series for David Fincher.

The show delves into the dark underworld of politics and peels away the layers of what is often brushed under the rug by the mainstream media. This is Kevin Spacey at his finest and one of his most dynamic roles yet. You will be hooked after the first episode.

“The show delves into the dark underworld of politics and peels away the layers of what is often brushed under the rug.”

the trials and tribulations of Ragnar’s band of Viking brothers and his family as he rises to become King of the Viking tribes. His quest is not without conflict. We see his character develop as he strives to live up to his destiny - as well as being a fearless warrior. Ragnar embodies the Norse traditions of devotion to the gods.

Nancy DeWolf Smith of The Wall Street Journal noted the “natural and authentic” setting and costumes, and appreciated that vikings was not a celebration of sex and violence, but “a study of character”. vikings appeals on another level - highlighting the inner struggle of a man destined for greatness and the effects of his legacy on those around him.

“The inner struggle of a man destined for greatness and the effects of his legacy on those around him.”

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1

Radio

Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you On Demand Radio to enhance your onboard experience.

Fitzpatrick Hotels

2

On this special edition of RTÉjr Radio’s The Club, Louise Denvir explores Ireland’s wildlife for the younger ones!

Contemporary easy listening from both sides of the Atlantic brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. 3

The Nicky Byrne Show

4

Ceol na nGael

6

Join Seán Ó hÉanaigh of RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta, as he brings you traditional Irish and folk music.

7

Indie Hits

Opera

8

Jazz On The Bay

10

Documentary on One

12

Best of Moncrieff Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues. Tune in every weekday 1:30 - 4:30pm on Newstalk 106-108 FM.

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august 2014

Chart Hits Tune in as Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic!

14

The award-winning RTÉ Radio 1 Doc on One brings you two documentaries, “Lions on Tour - The Jersey Returns” and “In San Francisco Streets”.

15

The Blue of the Night Presented by Eamonn Lenihan of RTÉ lyric fm, The Blue Of The Night broadcasts a mix of roots, folk, world, ambient and classical music.

Melanie O’Reilly hosts a special programme in this RTÉ Radio 1, PPI award-winning series, capturing the spirit of jazz from San Francisco Bay to Dublin.

13

The Cathal Murray Show Enjoy an exclusive edition of RTÉ Radio 1’s The Weekend on One with Cathal Murray, featuring an eclectic mix of music from all genres.

Opera Night on RTÉ lyric fm brings the world’s great opera from the world’s great opera houses to the greatest theatre of all: your radio!

11

Nova Irish Classic Rock For 60 minutes, Marty Miller is here with some of the greatest rockbands around. Sit back, relax and enjoy your flight!

Listen out for your favourite indie tracks and artists including The Smiths, Wilco and The Black Keys to name but a few!

9

Top Ten Weekday mornings you’ll find Ray Foley & JP Gilbourne on 98FM! Join the boys for the funniest way to wake up in Dublin.

A music driven show from RTÉ 2fm mixed with guests from the world of music, entertainment & TV, presented

by Nicky Byrne & Jenny Greene.

5

The Club

Irish Pulse Irish Pulse brings you some of the most famous Irish songs in recent history. Listen out for U2, Thin Lizzy and many more!

16

Irish Poetry Corner Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets: W.B. Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith and Oscar Wilde amongst others.

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INFLIGHT

Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to allow your skin to breathe.

Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin.

Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise.

Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.

Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce possible effects of long-duration travel.

Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation.

Move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness.

Reducing the effects of Jet Lag: Avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel.

When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities to the new time zone.

Mild exercise on arrival will help to stimulate your circulation.

We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Travel Tips It is important to take time to reduce your risk of getting sick. Various viruses are thought to spread mainly from person to person through coughing, sneezing, or close contact with the flu. Here are some everyday preventative actions you can take to help slow the spread of germs that cause respiratory illness, like flu: Cover your nose and mouth when you cough and sneeze. This will help to prevent the spread of droplets that contain germs.

Wash your hands often with soap and water. If soap and water are not available use an alcohol–based hand rub.

Avoid touching your eyes, nose and mouth, this can cause the spread of germs.

An important step is to get a flu vaccination, especially for elderly people, people with certain chronic health conditions, and pregnant women.

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.

If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com Telephone: (Ireland) 0818 365 011 09:00 - 17:00 Mon-Fri 10:00 - 16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00 - 16:00 Bank Holidays (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222

AER LINGUS

AER LINGUS REGIONAL

Maximum weight

48cm (19ins)

10kg 55cm (22ins)

7kg (15 lbs)

(22 lbs)

24cm (9ins)

Maximum weight

40cm (16ins)

20cm (8ins)

33cm (13ins)

In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter.

As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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AUGUST 2014

As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other passenger.

The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety.

If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination.

The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not be responsible for getting you

home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them.

We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.

EVEN WHEN YOU’RE IN THE AIR...

WE’RE STILL THERE You can’t protect your business all the time but Netwatch can.

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EET N ST R FT O

ON ST RE ET DAWS

27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 +353 (0) 1 675 9744

TRINITY COLLEGE

GRA

Ireland’s Whiskey Experts!

SAINT STEPHENS GREEN

Situated between Trinity College and the National Gallery, the award winning Blackboard Bistro offer an oasis of calm in the heart of the city.

Famous for our warm welcome and using only the best of Irish Artisans and seasonal produces, the Blackboard Bistro will give you a truly memorable "céad míle fáilte romhat"

www.celticwhiskeyshop.com INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING Like us on Facebook @ Celtic-Whiskey-ShopWines-On-The-Green

Follow us on Twitter @Celticwhiskey or @Winesonthegreen

Tel 01 676 6839 • 4 Clare Street, Dublin 2 www.theblackboardbistro.ie

One Pico is an acclaimed award winning restaurant serving modern classic cuisine with innovative touches using the best of Seasonal produce

OPEN 7 DAYS LUNCH & DINNER Set Lunch Menu €24 - Pre Theatre Menu €29 - Set Dinner Menu €45

“Beautiful classics at reasonable prices” Vogue

Previous awards include: ‘Chef of The Year’ Georgina Campbell Guide, ‘Best Chef’ Irish Restaurant Awards & ‘Best Restaurant’ Dublin’ Food & Wine Magazine

5/6 Molesworth Place (located just off St Stephens Green) Dublin 2 Reservations + 353 1 676 0300 e: info@onepico.com twitter @OnePicoDublin @_EamonnOReilly www.onepico.com

theGREENHOUSE A unique restaurant of understated luxury where menus are simple in format but show Mickael’s distinctive & exciting cooking with flavour, balance and seasonality being paramount

O P E N T U E S D A Y T O S A T U R D AY Lunch 12 noon - 2.30pm from €29 Dinner 6.00 - 10.00pm from €60 R E C E N T AWA R D S : ‘Chef of The Year’ Food & Wine Magazine Awards ‘Restaurant of The Year’ Georgina Campbell Guide, & ‘Restaurant of The Year’ McKennas Guide Critically acclaimed by Andy Hayler ‘Elite Traveller’, Marina O’Loughlin ‘The Guardian’ & Frank Bruni ‘The New York Times’

Dawson St, Dublin 2 (located just off St. Stephen’s Green) Reservations + 353 1 676 7015 info@thegreenhouserestaurant.ie twitter @_the_GREENHOUSE

www.thegreenhouserestaurant.ie

30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College) 30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College) Abbeygate street, Galway www.sweatershop.com www.thesweatershop.ie | T.T.+353 High st. Kilkenny +35311671 6712292 2292

INFLIGHT

Route maps

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Stockholm

Aberdeen Glasgow

Edinburgh

Copenhagen Newcastle Isle of Man Blackpool Hamburg DUBLIN Manchester London Berlin Birmingham HEATHROW Amsterdam Hanover Kerry Cardiff London Dusseldorf SOUTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Prague Frankfurt Jersey Rennes

Paris

Stuttgart

Munich

Warsaw

Vienna

Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid Ibiza

Lisbon Faro

Budapest

Milan

LINATE

Milan lan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Venice Pula Verona Ve Bologna Dubrovnik

Bourgas

Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Palma

Corfu Izmir

Alicante

Catania

Malaga

Athens

Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Belgium Brussels

Denmark Copenhagen

Bulgaria Bourgas

France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan Toulouse ■ Rennes

Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife Croatia Dubrovnik Pula

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Hanover Munich Stuttgart

Ireland ■ Kerry

Poland Warsaw

Sweden Stockholm

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Switzerland Geneva Zurich

Greece Athens Corfu

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona

Turkey Izmir

Hungary Budapest

The Netherlands Amsterdam

Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela

Morocco Agadir

United Kingdom Birmingham London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Manchester

■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Birmingham Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man Jersey London Southend Manchester Newcastle

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Stobart Air For more information on schedules, please visit aerlingus.com

AUGUST 2014

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INFLIGHT

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Edinburgh

Glasgow

Knock

BELFAST Manchester

Dublin

Birmingham

SHANNON Bristol London Heathrow

CORK

Amsterdam

LONDON GATWICK

Brussels

Jersey

Paris

Rennes

Munich

Geneva

Nice

Barcelona Palma

Portugal Alicante Faro

Malaga

Lanzarote

Tenerife

Gran Canaria

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Flights operate from George Best Belfast City Airport

Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick

FROM CORK Belgium Brussels Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Gran Canaria France Nice Paris ■ Rennes Germany Munich

FROM GATWICK Portugal Faro Lisbon Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma Switzerland Geneva (winter route)

United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

Ireland Belfast Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON Canary Islands Lanzarote Portugal Faro (winter route) Spain Malaga

United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester

FROM KNOCK United Kingdom London Gatwick

The Netherlands Amsterdam ■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Stobart Air

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AUGUST 2014

USA AND CANADA ROUTE NETWORK

Toronto Chicago

Boston New York

San Francisco Shannon

Dublin

Orlando

To & From Dublin & Shannon FROM DUBLIN

FROM SHANNON

USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando San Francisco

USA HBoston HNew York

Canada HToronto

Chicago Orlando

(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

HAer Lingus flights are available for sale on aerlingus.com H Operated for Aer Lingus by AG Air Contractors

AUGUST 2014

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INFLIGHT

CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis Milwaukee Omaha Salt Lake City

Sacramento SAN FRANCISCO San Jose

Oakland

Tulsa Oklahoma City

Las Vegas

Burbank Long Beach Orange County

Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego

Phoenix

Cleveland Dayton on

Des Moines

Indianapolis Cincinnati ncinna Saint Louis uis Louisville Nashville

Pi Pittsburgh Philadelphia Columbus WASHINGTON DULLES

Lexington Lex Charlotte arlo

Knoxville

Memphis

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Houston

Portland ME

New Orleans

San Antonio

BOSTON

Nantucket NEW YORK

Baltimore Greensboro Wa Washington NATIONAL Richmond Ri Raleigh - Durham Ra

Charleston Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

San Juan

Aguadilla

Ponce Po

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON, CHICAGO, TORONTO & SAN FRANCISCO New destinations with Aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United Airlines and Aer Arann Getting to the US from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier.

US, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental US destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers.

By choosing to fly to the United States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of United States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at Terminal 2, Dublin airport.

This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of US bound flights to clear US immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon.

Customers arrive in the US without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination.

■ NEW YORK Connecting with JetBlue at JFK: Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

Aer Lingus flights operate from T5 John F. Kennedy airport.

■ BOSTON Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan International Airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure.

Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ CHICAGO Connecting with United Airlines at O’Hare Chicago International Airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs

every four minutes to your UA domestic departure point.

Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin.

■ DUBLIN Connecting with Aer Lingus Regional (operated by Stobart Air) at Dublin Airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final US destination.

■ SAN FRANCISCO Connecting with United Airlines at San Francisco Airport: Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point and then pick them up again in Dublin.

■ TORONTO Connecting with Air Canada at Toronto Pearson International Airport: Passengers from Canada to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the Air Canada departure point and then pick them up again in Dublin.

All routes correct at time of going to press

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AUGUST 2014

Halifax

Atlanta Savannah

Austin

Burlington

Syracuse Ro Rochester

Buffalo lo

Detroit

CHICAGO

Wichita

Denver

Grand Rapids

Montreal

Ottawa TORONTO

Stockholm

Aberdeen Edinburgh

Glasgow

Newcastle Isle of Man

London

Birmingham

Shannon Kerry

Hamburg

Manchester

Dublin

London SOUTHEND London

Cardiff Bristol

Berlin

Amsterdam

HEATHROW

GATWICK

Warsaw

Dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt

Paris Vienna

Munich

Geneva Milan

MALPENSA

Venice

Rome

Barcelona

Madrid

Milan

LINATE

Naples

Palma Alicante Faro

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus                          

Alicante Amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf Edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Milan Linate Milan Malpensa Munich Palma Paris Rome Venice Vienna Warsaw

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus Regional         

Aberdeen Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend Newcastle Kerry

■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus  London (Heathrow) ■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus Regional    

Manchester Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh

Malaga

■ VIA NEW YORK with JetBlue                           

Aguadilla Austin Baltimore Boston Buffalo Burbank Burlington Charlotte Chicago Denver Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket Naples New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix Ponce Portland ME Portland OR Raleigh-Durham

            

Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Savannah Seattle Stockholm Syracuse Tampa West Palm Beach

■ VIA BOSTON with JetBlue             

Baltimore Buffalo Charleston Charlotte Chicago Dallas Fort Worth Denver Detroit Ford Lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach

                      

Los Angeles Nantucket New Orleans Oakland Orlando Philadelphia Phoenix Pittsburg Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Richmond Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Savannah Seattle Stockholm Tampa Washington (Dulles) Washington(National) West Palm Beach

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to USA  Atlanta  Austin  Charlotte

                             

Charleston Cincinnati Chicago Cleveland Columbus Dallas (Fort Worth) Dayton Denver Des Moines Detroit Fort Myers Grand Rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville Kansas City Knoxville Las Vegas Lexington Los Angeles Louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis Nashville New Orleans Oklahoma City Omaha

                  

Orange County Phoenix Pittsburgh Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Antonio San Diego San Francisco San Jose Santa Ana Seattle St Louis Stockholm Tampa Tulsa Wichita

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to Canada      

Calgary Edmonton Salt Lake City Toronto Vancouver Winnipeg

■ VIA SAN FRANCISCO with United to USA        

Denver Las Vegas Los Angeles Phoenix Portland OR Salt Lake City San Diego Seattle

■ VIA TORONTO with Air Canada       

Calgary Edmonton Halifax Montreal Ottawa Vancouver Winnipeg

■ VIA BOSTON/ NEW YORK with Air Canada  Halifax  Toronto

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Stobart Air AUGUST 2014

| 143

INFLIGHT

MIDDLE EAST AND AUSTRALASIA ROUTE NETWORK

Dublin

Bahrain Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

FROM DUBLIN

VIA ABU DHABI TO:

Abu Dhabi

Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bahrain Sydney Melbourne

Flights are operated by our codeshare partner, Etihad Airways.

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Sydney Melbourne

Enjoy Wi-Fi and Mobile Onboard your transatlantic flight today* Wi-Fi Onboard Communicate with friends and family, launch your business to new heights or browse your favourite websites as you fly onboard today.

You can connect via any Wi-Fi enabled device.

Follow these simple steps to get connected.

Switch on Switch on your device when it is safe to do so and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Mobile Network Onboard Text, email and browse the web from the air with our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile. Connect instantly and keep in touch with friends and family through your mobile as you glide across the Atlantic.

Connect Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

Purchase Internet Access Click the 'Buy Internet Access' button to purchase a session, then choose a tariff. Your browsing session can last one hour or you can purchase a 24 hour pass.

Payment Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

Username and Password

Switch on Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so and ensure it is in silent or vibrate mode.

Aeromobile Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Welcome SMS Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

Standard roaming rates apply.

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

Connected

Connected

Remember: Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and incurring roaming charges.

You are now free to browse, email and surf the internet... enjoy!

One hour pass €10.95 | $14.95 24 hour pass €19.95 | $24.95 *A330 aircraft only.

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email, and browsing the internet.

Standard roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator

INFLIGHT

Flight Connections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT

D EL E V E PA L 3 RT UR E

GATES

401 - 426

SEC URI T Y

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411 407

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US CUSTO M S A N D B O R D E R P R OT ECT I O N

A RL E V E RIV L2 AL S

FL I GH T CONNECTI O NS FRO M T1

FL I GH T CONNECTI O NS FRO M T2

303

302 301

TO GAT E S 3 0 1 -3 1 3

309 310

TO GATE S 40 1 -426 311 313

T

GATES

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301-313

R M IN A L 2

C HL E V E EC L 1 K- I N

C HEC K I N

KEY PAS SE NGE RS ARRIVIN G AT TE RM INAL 2

AUGUST 2014

FL I GHT CONNECTI ONS

ON A RRI VA L

CO NNECT I O NS D ES K

BAGGAGE R ECL A I M

PARK I NG

PU B L I C A REA

I M M I GRAT I O N

TOI L ETS

S EC U RE A REA

S EC U RI T Y

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GATE NU M B ER

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS

Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals.

Personal service and fast turnaround assured.

A DUBLIN ICON SINCE 1927

Café Grafton Street

Bewley’s Café Grafton Street has been stirring the hearts of a nation for generations. Boasting a rich cultural and architectural heritage, it is also home to the magnificant stained glass windows by renowned artist Harry Clarke.

78/79 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 Phone: 01 672 7720 Email: gs@bewleys.ie www.bewleys.com

Come and enjoy our award winning hand-roasted coffee and delicious freshly baked desserts in a beautiful surrounding.

OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY AND KILKENNY, IRELAND

New York T: 212 965-1148

Kilkenny T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

Web: www.obrienandassociates.com Twitter: @USVisaExpert

Make A Book Of Online Conversations

Award winning Thai food & endless cocktails.

Awarded Thai Select Premium Certification

Diep Le Shaker Award winning Royal Thai Cuisine 55 Pembroke Lane, Dublin 2 | T: 01 661 1829 | www.diepleshaker.ie

Works With Facebook, WhatsApp Or Email.

Get 15% off your purchase using code CARAIE • Soft or hardcover option available.

• Application is quick and easy to use.

• Books vary in length from 30-450 pages.

• Delivery is global (regular or courier shipping).

INFLIGHT

Flight Connections

AT T2 LONDON HEATHROW AND T5 JOHN F. KENNEDY AIRPORTS

BAGGAGE R ECL A I M

PARK I NG

I M M I GRAT I O N

TOI L ETS

S EC U RE A RE A

S EC U RI T Y

GOLD CIRCLE LO U NGE

GATE NU M B ER

PU B L I C A RE A

L D EV E E PA L R 5 T U R

E

S

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V

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KEY

SEC URI T Y

#

C HEC K I N B31

B49 B48 B47A

B32 B33

B47B B46

T 2B

A16

T A E S

B44 B35

A18

DE PARTING PA S SE N GE RS

G

B34

A17

B43 B42

B36 A19

B38

A20

B39

A21A

B41

L G EV A E T L E 4 LE V E

L

A21B A23 A26

A24 A25

A RRI V I NG PAS S ENGERS

L A EV R E R L IV 1 A LS

LON D ON HE ATHR OW T ERM I NAL 2

A RRI V I NG PA S S ENGERS

27

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S EC U R IT Y

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D C EP H A E R C T K U IN RE

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P G AR A AR K S IR A IN K T G G Y R E W A A IN AN LK V D IA

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C H EC K IN

5 BAG GAG E S ERV I C E OF F I C E

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4

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1 D EPA RTI NG PA S S ENGERS

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JO H N F. K EN N EDY TE R M IN A L 5

Scintillating Traditional Irish Cottage with Separate Lodge 500m from the sea

Irish Pubs

Enjoy a truly Irish experience on your vacation!

Ireland’s number one website listing the most authentic traditional Irish pubs.

Log on to www.traditionalirishpubs.com or download the FREE app today!

• This 1820’s cottage by the sea (Teach Tra) was completely renovated in 2000 by its creative owner • There is also a wonderful 2 bed chalet on site with its own separate accesse • Situated 15 mins drive along the coast from Galway City and 5 mins from the bustling celtic village of Spiddal • Walking distance to stunning public and private beaches • Fantastic Features include stucco walls, stressed flooring, wood burner, gardens and patios, parking and storage • PRICE €395,000 With sea views from its front door and main bedroom, ‘Teach Tra’ is a magical place creating a sense of serene from the moment you step inside. On a practical side, it is in the village with neighbours and amenities close by and can offer a host of possibilities to its new owner.

Contact Shelagh McGann at Keane Mahony Smith - Galway Offices. +35391563744

Search for IRISH PUBS

www.traditionalirishpubs.com

Cloghan Castle

R A I LT O U R S IRELAND

First Class!

Book Today - Travel Tomorrow Cliffs of Moher

• Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty • Waterford & Kilkenny • Cork & Blarney Castle • The Giant's Causeway • The Ring of Kerry • The Aran Islands • Connemara & Galway Bay • The Wicklow Mountains

ONE DAY TOURS TO NINE DAY TOURS fROm DUBLIN

C

loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way!

Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.

Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: info@cloghancastle.com Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group Contact us for our Special Offers: www.cloghancastle.com

Car Free - Care Free

www.railtoursireland.com TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045 e-mail: info@railtoursireland.com

Blarney Castle and Gardens

American Restaurant & Bar

A FREE APPETISER for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass Terms and conditions apply

BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie

Ballyhoura Forest Luxury Homes tm

WAITING FOR YOU TO EXPERIENCE

Rent a Luxury Home(s) 4 Star Superior in the Mountains on the Limerick/Clare Border. Sleep 6, 3 Bedrooms, all en-suite The immediate area is a haven for outdoor pursuits, be it walking, hiking, mountaineering, cycling, mountain biking, golf and a host more...

Michelin Bib Gourmand

Phone: + 353 87 9412165

or email: ballyhouraforestluxuryhomes@gmail.com web: www.ballyhouraforestluxuryhomes.com Enjoy living amongst Ireland’s indiginous wildlife

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com

Overlooking beautiful Rosscarbery Bay....

In the heart of West Cork...

On the Wild Atlantic Way BOOK ONLINE: www.celticrosshotel.com Quote “CARA” to guarantee a seaview room!

Food served all day 8am - 9.30pm Leisure Centre open to non-members Rosscarbery, West Cork, Ireland +353 (0)23 88 48722 info@celticross.com On the N71 67km West of Cork city and Airport GPS: N 51° 34.5530, W 9° 01.7361

TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE

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If you’re looking for a new timepiece, then clock this watch from Fossil. With its stainless steel wristband, white dial and black Roman numerals, it has a vintage feel while remaining thoroughly modern. Just timeless.

boutique 3 From the freshest new scent to the watch that says “I’ve arrived” (on time), here are our top five buys from the new issue of Boutique, your luxury shopping guide from Aer Lingus.

4

There’s a reason aviator sunglasses have There’s been around for decades and continue to be one of the most popular styles for men – they’re classic, cool and they suit every face shape. We love these shades from Police – arresting wouldn’t you agree? Turn to page 57 of the new issue of Boutique for more information.

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NEW ONBOARD

TRIP OF A LIFE TIME | MOROCCO

No hiding place

Performer with The Nualas Maria Tecce finds herself laid bare in the desert. t’s 6.55 in the morning and there’s a camel train leaving in 20 minutes. I’m throwing on clothes and grabbing my laptop as fast as I can, as missing this transport means I won’t be able to check my email or have contact with the outside world until next week. I’ve just realised I have no clean underwear. And the solar panels haven’t heated the water from yesterday so there’s no hot water. I am in the middle of the Moroccan desert, 40 kilometres from the nearest town, overlooking Erg Chebbi, the famous red dunes.

There’s no internet, no washing machine, no phone, no television, no cable, no corner shop. And I am having a ball.

I’ve come to Tissardmine, an abandoned Berber trading post, as an “artist in residence”, which means I have three blissful weeks of singing and writing, and that’s the minimum time you’d want to come as it takes two days travelling to get here. (The bus journey alone from Marrakech over the Atlas Mountains is ten hours!) Nothing happens quickly

I

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here, but you can bet you’ll meet some lovely people and laugh a lot while you sit back and go with the Moroccan flow.

And laugh we do. Our little desert band consists of a Yank, an Ozzie, two Danes, a Dutch and a Norwegian. Thankfully, we all get on well. You’d want to because, let’s face it, there’s nothing but time out here. We have brandy over Scrabble on rainy afternoons, marathon ukulele sessions after dinner, and fly our homemade kite up near the military base and get told off for potential terrorist activities. There was much amusement when my clothes got blown away in a sudden sandstorm while sun-bathing nude on the roof of my house. (Yes, there were some happy Berbers that day.) The dry, chalky smell of sand is pervasive; it gets everywhere, no matter how tightly you close the windows and doors. I have mini dunes forming in the corners of my room, on my inner window sills, and my shower room looks like a micro beach. It is surreal and oddly mystical.

It’s my first time in the desert and

Sand and stillness – Maria takes a camel ride during her three-week stint at an abandoned Berber trading post.

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I have come completely unprepared for the climate – it is DRY. I’ve started slathering myself top to toe with olive oil three times a day just to keep my skin from falling off.

Even though it’s March I thought, “Desert. Hot, right? Summer clothes coming up ...” but the wind is cold and kept us bundled up for the first week. I am unprepared not only for the weather but the endless solitude and stillness that pervades this arid, dispassionate landscape. I marvel at our camels; their taciturn reserve is infectious as they gaze dolefully at us as we pass by.

I trekked out to “Internet Hill” yesterday, five kilometres to the south (they say you can get two bars of connection if you stand on your left leg, raise your right arm, and face Mecca). There is a cinematic emptiness here that demands silence and simplicity.

It is part of the desert’s personality: dry, stark, neutral. Everything you bring here of yourself is laid bare in the uncompromising light; there is nowhere to hide, no place for masks or pretence. It is exactly as you see it. And it takes you exactly as you are.

Maria Tecce performs with The Nualas in Hello Again, We’re The Nualas! as part of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, July 30 to August 25. Tickets on assemblyfestival.com.

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