CARA August 2018

August 2018

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS

IRISH FOOD & DRINKS STARS

CONOR OʼBRIEN

VILLAGERS ON FIRE WICKLOW • SEATTLE • CONNECTICUT • EDINBURGH

the ca stle | the lodge | the old stable mews

A rural retreat in the heart of Ireland…

N

estled on 1,000 acres of undulating Irish countryside, dotted with ancient woodland and glittering lakes, Castle Leslie Estate is one of the last great Irish estates still in the hands of its founding family. Steeped in history, full of character and charm, it is the ultimate Irish rural escape.

Only 80 minutes from Dublin and 60 minutes Only 80 minutes from Dublin and 60 minutes from Belfast, Castle Leslie Estate boasts a variety from Belfast, Castle Leslie Estate boasts a variety of accommodation and activities to suit all tastes. of accommodation and activities to suit all tastes.

The Castle, at the heart of the Estate, offers original The Castle, at the heart of the Estate, offers interiors with old style hospitality and provides original interiors with old style hospitality and a complete respite from the world. provides a complete respite from the world.

The Lodge is the country house style boutique hotel Thethe Lodge is the social hub of the Estate, on Estate which houses Conor’s Bar, the 2 AA a country house boutique hotel brings and the Rosette award winning Snafflesthat Restaurant locals and guests together in an atmosphere spa called The Victorian Treatment Rooms. of conviviality and 29 comfort.

The and Old Stable Mews of It currently has bedrooms in the summer and Village Cottages are the perfect spot for 2019 there’ll be even more bedrooms. A beautiful groups that want hotel living new extension willthe seeconvenience a further 18ofexquisite new combined with private luxury home rental. guest bedrooms added.

The Old Stable Mews and Village Cottages are the Castle Leslie Estate offers an idyllic setting for perfect spot for groups that want the convenience outdoor activity and adventure. Explore the of hotel living combined with private luxury home Estate on horseback, enjoy some of Ireland’s rental. Castle Leslie Estate offers an idyllic setting finest coarse fishing, take in a movie at our for outdoor activity and adventure. private cinema, luxuriate in a relaxing massage Explore the Estate on horseback, enjoy some in the Victorian treatment rooms, exhilarate of Ireland’s finest coarse fishing, take in a in amovie abundance outdoor adventures, or just at ourof private cinema, luxuriate in a borrow a pair of wellies from our bootTreatment room relaxing massage in the Victorian andRooms, go for aexhilarate stroll on our 1,000 acres – just in an abundance of outdoor some of the choices that await ayou inof this adventures, or just borrow pair wellies from hidden corner of Ireland. our boot room and go for a stroll on our 1,000 acres – just some of the choices that await you in this hidden corner of Ireland.

An Overnight Escape to include a wonderful 5 course dinner in the 2 AA Rosette award winning Snaffles Restaurant and a hearty full Irish breakfast starts from €140 per person sharing.

Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough, Monaghan

t: + 353 47 88 100

www.castleleslie.com

CONTENTS AUGUST 2018

CHECK IN

4 WELCOME Aer Lingus hacks 8 ARRIVALS New faces at Dublin’s T2.

Were you passing through?

11 CHECK IN Superior stuff to see, do, wear, eat, sip and sleep in 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary round-up 32 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Artist Domino Whisker unravels the threads of her favourite trips

80

34 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins unearths Greek classics in Corfu 36 WEEKENDER Yvonne Gordon checks into Barcelona

Connecticut Calling

38 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO MIAMI Niall Merry’s hottest tickets

FEATURES

40 THE NOISE OF WATERS Conor O’Brien aka Villagers dives into an interview with Tony Clayton-Lea 46 THE TASTEMAKERS Melanie Mullan meets Ireland’s hottest young food and drinks stars 54 ALL AROUND THE GARDEN Eoin Higgins’ blooming lovely lark around Wicklow 64 PACIFIC PIONEER Lucy White gorges on farm-to-mouth cuisine and spectacular scenery in Seattle 80 ALONG THE SOUND Lizzie GoreGrimes’ family road-trip tracing the impossibly pretty Long Island Sound 90 PEAKS AND SCOFFS Photographer Aisling McCoy turns her lens on Edinburgh right in time for festival season

54 Wondrous Wicklow

46 Great Taste

64

Stuffed in Seattle

REGULARS

99 5 BEST FARM BREAKS Get welly ready for Eithne Shortall’s pastoral round-up

BUSINESS

110 BUSINESS & LIFE Peckham was made famous by Del Boy – but teems with savvy, says Daniel Ford

106 48 HOURS IN DUBROVNIK Yvonne Gordon’s Adriatic odyssey

116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Chef Neven Maguire’s kitchen sink dramas

123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment to make your journey a cinch

118 ETERNAL STYLE New hotels edit that includes crashpads in Rome, Chicago, Athens and Philadelphia

152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Irish racing car legend Rosemary Smith revisits the 1974 Kenyan Safari Rally

120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Author Marian Broderick turns to Irish history for sage advice

Alaïa Armani Balenciaga Bottega Veneta Burberry Canada Goose Céline Chanel Charlotte Tilbury Chloé Christian Louboutin Dolce & Gabbana Erdem Fendi Givenchy Gucci Hermès Huda Beauty Jimmy Choo Louis Vuitton M•A•C Manolo Blahnik Moncler NARS Prada Saint Laurent Paris Tiffany & Co Tom Ford Valentino Victoria Beckham Zegna Ireland’s Most Beautiful Store, The World’s Best Brands, Exceptional Service, A Luxury Destination For Women, Men, Beauty, Home And Gifting.

DUBLIN CORK LIMERICK GALWAY

brownthomas.com

CARA Magazine August 2018

WELCOME ABOARD Holiday season has never been easier with Aer Lingus, which offers families half price deals, advance bag drop, pre-boarding and more. elcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly with Aer Lingus today. School’s out for summer! We are in the height of our summer season, operating our busiest schedule on record, connecting our guests to their favourite holiday destinations. To make your family flights less stressful, here are some tips and guidelines for consideration:

W

FAMILY FIRST Aer Lingus’ “Family First”

initiative is designed to ease the check-in and boarding process for those travelling with youngsters. Children aged between two and 11 years get half-price checked bags and half-price seat selection within Europe. We also allow you to bring your buggy/stroller/travel seat free of charge.

CHECK IN THE NIGHT BEFORE

You can now check your luggage in the evening before your flight. Only one immediate family member from the travelling party needs to check-in for a family group, once all tickets, passports and bags are provided together.

EXPRESS BAG DROP If you are not flying with oversize baggage (car seat or pushchair), the Aer Lingus Express Bag Drop Service is the fastest and easiest way to get airside. Once you’ve your boarding card printed or downloaded to your mobile, simply self-tag and check-in your bags. Those that are travelling with

oversize baggage will need to get special boarding passes from the check-in gate.

BOARDING, BE FIRST IN THE QUEUE

Aer Lingus offers a pre-boarding facility to families travelling with young children, as well as to guests who may need special assistance. Buggies can be dropped off at the gate prior to departure, and are delivered to the gate on arrival. To ensure your family are seated together we strongly recommend you reserve seats in advance when making your booking.

POPE’S VISIT Aer Lingus will operate Pope Francis’ flights to and from Knock, and his return flight to Rome on August 26, as part of the World Meeting of Families 2018.

ENTERTAINMENT If travelling long-haul,

enjoy the very latest inflight entertainment with a dedicated kids section packed full of endless movies, games and popular TV shows for kids. If travelling on our European flights, having a tablet to hand can be a handy distraction for children during a flight – download a favourite film or TV programme before travelling.

TASTY TREAT A light bite is always a

guaranteed hit for kids and Aer Lingus offers a Child Snack Pack as part of its Bia menu, which, along with lots of great nibbles, includes an activity sheet and colouring pencils to keep our younger guests entertained throughout their flight.

We hope you have a pleasant flight and enjoy the holidays!

SECOND WIND Irish Rugby returns to Chicago on November 3, when Ireland take on Italy at Soldier Field. Aer Lingus will be bringing #HomeAdvantage to the Windy City once again so plan your weekend now: go for the rugby, stay for the city!

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.

THE FINGAL FOUR The winners of an Aer Lingus competition to support local business talent are announced. Well done to Hope Beer Dublin, Buster Box, MIAS Pharma and WeBringg. Look out for their business profiles in future issues.

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EY

CONTRIBUTORS UEZ COURTN

EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Thomas Breathnach, Aoife Carrigy, Lauren Colton, Graham Corcoran, Daniel Ford, Yvonne Gordon, Bridget Hourican, Aisling McCoy, Niall Merry, Tara O’Brien, Eithne Shortall, Niamh Tighe, Gemma Tipton, Kyle Tunney ART Art Director Niamh Richardson Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan

RQ NATHALIE MA

ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Group Editor-in-Chief Lizzie Gore-Grimes Group Contributing Editor Melanie Morris Group Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Gina Traynor Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Melanie Morris, Laura George, Robert Power

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

MARK DUGGAN divides his time between getting elbowed in the ribs by his three-year-old son Reuben, shooting campaigns for clients like Audi, Jameson, Guinness and Bord Bia, and cycling, plus developing his personal photographic work. For his first cover for Cara, he photographed musician Conor O’Brien at Dublin’s St Anne’s Park and the newly reopened Clontarf Baths. “I’ve a fascination with the juxtaposition of the old and new in the city and for me, Conor exudes this trait through his music.” See more on page 40.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent MD Christina da Silva Commercial Director Justine Daly Creative Director Stuart Purcell Editorial Director Maureen Rice Finance Director Jane Moffett Strategy & Business Director Ann Hartland

LAUREN COLTON is a Seattle-based photographer. She specialises in editorial travel, lifestyle and portraiture and has worked with a variety of clients including Condé Nast Traveler, Food and Wine, Nordstrom and Patagonia. When not shooting, Lauren spends her time playing with her two cats and camping on the Olympic Peninsula. For her Cara debut, she pointed her lens at Seattle – Aer Lingus’ newest transatlantic route – that includes must-dos in the city as well as a sojourn to San Juan island: turn to page 64 for the fruits of her labour.

+44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE PUBLICATIONS LTD

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned.

All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

August 2018

ON THE COVER

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS

IRISH FOOD & DRINKS STARS

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

With an editorial CV that stretches from GQ to Food & Wine and Image Interiors & Living to Image Brides (not to mention a stint editing this fair title in between), our group editor-in-chief LIZZIE GOREGRIMES has written about pretty much everything over the past 20 years.

But with food and family being two of her pet subjects she jumped at the opportunity to take her three kids to visit cousins in Branford, Connecticut and soak up the charm of this sleepy stretch of Long Island Sound coast.

Read all about it from page 80.

CONOR OʼBRIEN

VILL AGERS ON FIRE WICKLOW • SEATTLE • CONNECTICUT • EDINBURGH

Conor O’Brien photographed by Mark Duggan, assisted

by Eoin Higgins. Styling

by Ciana March, and makeup and grooming

by Sarah Jane Lanagan.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

Pictured above at our Dublin office are members of Matheson’s Employment, Pensions and Benefits Group, with Head of Group, Bryan Dunne (centre)

Employment & Pensions Law Excellence At Matheson, we are home to one of Ireland’s largest employment and pensions law practices. With 17 legal professionals, our Employment, Pensions and Benefits team advises leading domestic employers and multinational businesses,

providing

contentious

and

non-contentious

employment

law services and solutions, and advice on all pensions law matters.

Our team’s expertise cuts across all industry sectors - from pharma, life sciences and tech to agri-business, energy and financial services.

To find out more, please contact bryan.dunne@matheson.com or your usual Matheson contact.

Matheson. The law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland.

Follow our employment law and pensions law podcasts online at: www.matheson.com

Dublin

London

New York

Palo Alto

San Francisco

Ranked Tier 1 Employment Law Practice Legal 500 EMEA 2018 Ranked Band 1 Pensions Law Practice Chambers Europe 2018 Winner, Eight Deals of the Year in M&A, Equity Capital Markets, Debt Capital Markets, Financial Services, Loans and Financing Finance Dublin Awards 2018 Ranked Ireland’s Most Innovative Law Firm Financial Times Innovative Lawyers Report 2017

www.matheson.com

WHO? Laura Arevalo FLYING IN FROM ...

Barcelona LAURA SAYS ... “I’m here to see my boyfriend and his family for a few days. We’re going to a wedding.”

WHO? Rachel O’Connor, Ruth, Sam and Alex Kennedy FLYING IN FROM ... Murcia RACHEL SAYS ... “We’re on our way home from a glorious holiday in Murcia and looking forward to more sunshine here.”

ARRIVALS

Cara was at T2 to warmly welcome old and new friends here for weddings, reunions and holidays.

WHO? Derek Altema and Tyler Newhall FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam DEREK SAYS ... “We’ve been in London and Amsterdam and are heading to Limerick for my brother’s wedding this weekend.”

WHO? Ian Bergman FLYING IN FROM ...

San Francisco IAN SAYS ... “I’m here to meet my girlfriend for a few days and then we’re going to travel through Europe for ten days.”

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WHO? Justin and Hayley Schroth FLYING IN FROM ... Paris HAYLEY SAYS ... “We’re from Colorado and heading to Cork before visiting the Ring of Kerry and then up to Galway.”

WORDS BY NIAMH TIGHE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN

WHO? Melissa Gray and Ian Buckley FLYING IN FROM ...

San Francisco IAN SAYS ...

“I’m originally from Ireland and we’re here for three months to see my children.”

BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ■

■

■

CHECK IN ERWIN BLUMENFELD/LE DÉCOLLETÉ VICTORIA VON HAGEN/NEW YORK, 1952 © THE ESTATE OF ERWIN BLUMENFELD

EAT · READ · GO

IN VOGUE As former editor-in-chief of Italian Elle and Vogue magazines and a dedicated collector of world-class photography at her eponymous Milan gallery, the rather fabulous Carla Sozzani has lived a life suspended between the worlds of art and fashion.

Catch a selection of those collected images in Between Art & Fashion at the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin’s multifaceted Museum für Fotografie until November 18. smb.museum AERLINGUS.COM |

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STAY

The G Hotel and Spa, Galway Get some hatspiration for the Galway Races (running until August 5) at the G Hotel thanks to milliner Philip Treacy, who was the design director for this eyecatching spot; look out for the quirky nods to Treacy’s work throughout.

Make sure to book dinner in Gigi’s where top-notch grub will have you coming back again and again. Rooms from €170. theghotel.ie

Imperial Hotel, Cork City-centre located, the Imperial is as glam as ever after a recent extensive refurbishment. Rooms in the period property are modern yet styled to reflect its historic surroundings, with luxurious bedspreads and elegant lampshades. Lafayette’s Brasserie provides a delightful selection of daytime snacks and cakes against an exuberant Art Nouveau backdrop. Rooms from €165. imperialhotelcork.com

KIDS

Galgorm Resort and Spa, Antrim If it’s luxury you’re after it’s luxury you’ll get here in Ballymena. Come to the hotel for its top-class spa facilities – it has won multiple awards, so don’t miss out on an indulgent treatment – outdoor hot tubs and exquisite rooms, but stay for the gorgeous riverside views. There are also more than 65 hectares of land for ambling around, plus live music in Gillies bar and restaurant.

Rooms from £230. galgorm.com

No 1 Pery Square, Limerick Set in a period house in Limerick City’s Georgian Quarter, this boutique hotel offers luxury comfort with outstanding hospitality. Each of the 20 rooms is luxurious and stylish, with interiors lovingly restored to maintain the building’s striking architectural details.

Downstairs, a spa offers treatments daily, while Sash restaurant is open for breakfast and dinner. Rooms from €135. oneperysquare.com

PLAY TIME

CHRIS DANNEFFEL

4 GORGEOUS IRISH GETAWAYS

FESTIVAL

LAKE VIEWS Lake Zurich provides the Alpine riviera backdrop for much-loved folk festival Seenachtfest (Lake Night Festival), which pops up for its triannual showdown at the Medieval castle town of Rapperswil on the weekend of August 10-12. With it come jugglers, dancers and musicians, a maze of market stalls, Swiss Patrol air shows and a dazzling fireworks display drawing 75,000 wide-eyed spectators. seenachtfest.ch

Swap the screens for a back-to-basics celebration of interactivity and imagination at Playstival (August 11-12), a novel summer festival in Dublin for families. Eight themed and supervised “play universes” invite immersion into diverse worlds (think hard-hat construction sites, or the wild, wild west) – all in the inspirational setting of Airfield Estate’s 15-hectare urban farm, and with nourishment from The Happy Pear to keep everyone content and well fed. playstival.ie

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THEATRE

PUCK UP

STE MUURAY

As the annual Kilkenny Arts Festival returns for its 45th year, it’s the turn of beloved theatre company Rough Magic on the festival highlight merry-go-round that is Shakespeare at the Castle Yard. This year’s iconic play is A Midsummer Night’s Dream (August 9-18), given a timely Irish twist by sure-handed director Lynne Parker. kilkennyarts.ie

PAINTING

Festival swag at the ready: Lollapalooza is back. With the Arctic Monkeys kick-starting the four-day party on August 2 and Jack White getting the army back together on August 5, Chicago’s Grant Park is where it’s at – though this year’s Official 2018 Lollapalooza Aftershows programme sees performances from more than 110 artists as they spill out of the park and into some of the Windy City’s best clubs. lollapalooza.com

EMPIRE STATEMENTS

Light and dark, hope and despair, civilisation and wilderness – they’re all in Thomas Cole: Eden to Empire, at London’s National Gallery until October 7. Born in Britain at the start of the 19th century, Cole metamorphosed into the greatest American landscape artist of his generation. nationalgallery.org.uk

CHARLES REAGAN HACKLEMAN / LOLLAPALOOZA 2017

ART

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QUEEN OF PERSIA

In her mid-nineties, Iranian artist Monir Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian presents Sunset, Sunrise, her first ever solo show in Ireland (from August 10).

This retropective at Dublin’s IMMA, spans six decades and features more than 70 works that blend elements of Persian mysticism with Western avant-garde principles. imma.ie

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.

MONIR FARMANFARMAIAN_UNTITLED (HEPTAGON)_2016/ COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND THE THIRD LINE, DUBAI

A Lorra Lols

THOMAS COLE, THE CONSUMMATION OF EMPIRE, 1835–6/ © THE NEW YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY, NEW YORK/DIGITAL IMAGE BY OPPENHEIMER EDITIONS

MUSIC

DIASPORA

THE IMAGE

maker

Illustrator Kathi Burke – pseudonym Fatti Burke – has a long relationship with Cara magazine, having drawn many a map for our pages since 2011. From Co Waterford, she has been working as a freelance illustrator since she graduated from the National College of Art and Design in 2012. Her work revolves around the things she loves – food, home, memes, animals and tradition. She currently lives in Amsterdam.

What projects are you working on at the moment? I’m working on a ton of non-fiction children’s books – it’s my dream. I’m doing a series of board books called My First Role Models with Penguin Random House in New York, depicting inspiring female role models.

How did you know you wanted to be an illustrator? It was a bit of a no-brainer for me since it’s pretty much the only thing I know how to do. My initial plan when I left school was to become a fine artist but studying graphic design in college taught me effective problem-solving and I adapted a more logical approach to image making.

What was the inspiration behind the three children’s books you and your dad created? It was a real collaboration of ideas between myself, my dad and our publisher Gill Books. The idea behind our three books [Irelandopedia, Historopedia and Foclóiropedia] was to celebrate all things uniquely Irish.

Your biggest struggle when it comes to illustration? Creativity on demand. The job requires that you’re inventive and original every single day. There are some days when you wake up with a different mindset on you – maybe more administrative or introspective.

The struggle is pushing through that and still working to a high

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standard. Your bad days have to be just as productive as your best, so conjuring that motivation each morning is the hardest thing to get right.

What made you move to Amsterdam? I had never lived abroad, going straight from school to college and from college to working. I travel at every available opportunity and my favourite thing to do is pretend in my mind that I live in the city that I’m visiting.

The obvious thing to do was to pick up and leave – I don’t think I’ll stay here forever, but I’ll probably spend the next few years moving around Europe.

How does Amsterdam inspire your work? It doesn’t influence me directly. What I’m working on at the moment is a number of children’s non-fiction books for publishers in the UK and America. The content across them is quite diverse but all rooted in fact, historically and scientifically. I suppose I haven’t given Amsterdam a chance to soak into my work yet. However, once my books are finished at the end of the year I would love to work on some personal projects and I’m sure that I’ll notice the city’s influence seep into that side of my illustration.

Top three coffee spots in Amsterdam? Scandinavian Embassy is my local café – across the road from Sarphatipark in De

Pijp. The staff are friendly and their cinnamon buns are sticky-sweet and moreish. It’s always extremely busy so we normally get a coffee to go, making a nice change from making it at home mid-week.

Closer to the city centre, Bocca Coffee is a great shout. It’s a huge, airy, open space, a welcome respite from a rainy day. Great coffee and a clientele that consists of some of the cutest dogs I’ve ever seen.

I’m also partial to Frederix on Frederiksplein for a hearty brunch.

Favourite places to escape to in Ireland? It has to be Dunmore East, where I’m from. My parents have recently moved into Waterford city so I’ve been lusting after Dunmore for a little summer break. I think my life’s dream is to have a holiday home overlooking Lawlor’s Strand.

What part of illustration do you enjoy the most? The freedom it gives me. I love working for myself and carving out a career all alone is extremely rewarding.

For me, it’s still very much a job and I like to think I approach it with professionalism. That doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy the process of illustrating but it isn’t the studiocovered-in-paint, starving artist thing that people envision.

The biggest challenge since moving to Amsterdam? Missing my friends. I’ve been lucky that I’ve made some great friends here and that has made the move so wonderful – meeting extraordinary, people that I’d never have met otherwise. But I just want to put all my friends from Dublin in a big suitcase and bring them over here with me too.

outdoor

GUY

GRAB YOUR

SWEATER

MADE IN IRELAND

BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS an Irish Family Business

shop on l in e @ b l a rney .co m

© MARCO URSO

FAMILY

Baby Boom

Underground electronic music for all generations? You better believe it, baby! International DJs and fans young and old gather in southern France on August 5 to bliss out at the uniquely idyllic open-air house and techno party that is Montpellier’s Family Piknik. familypiknikfestival.com

PHOTOGRAPHY

ONE WILD LIFE

A tiny seahorse clutches a cotton bud; lobster larvae cling to glowing jellyfish; monarch butterflies swarm trees and a horn-less black rhino is brought to his knees. It must be the Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition, an annual institution for five decades that today attracts more than 50,000 entries from amateur and professional photographers in 92 countries. Judge it for yourself at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County, from August 19 into early 2019. nhm.org

BOOK

DARK ARTS

Black and white photographs by one of Cara’s longestserving collaborators, Rich Gilligan, feature in The Salvage Press’ limited edition Town (€188), which spotlights Dublin’s often overlooked communities and spaces.

Annemarie Ní Churreáin provides a suite of poems, all expertly designed and produced by Jamie Murphy. thesalvagepress.com 18 |

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FOR THE

BEST RATES

BOOK ONLINE

A TALE IS BREWING

In the heart of Kilkenny city, and Ireland’s Ancient East, is the home of Ireland’s most popular ale. Find out how our famous red ale is made on a guided tour. Discover stories and tales of our heritage, dating back over 300 years.

Your visit will be topped off with a perfectly poured pint of one of our ales, or upgrade to a tasting paddle and try all three.

BOOK TICKETS ONLINE AT WWW.SMITHWICKSEXPERIENCE.COM

Check in

DINNER

THE DUNRAVEN ARMS HOTEL CO LIMERICK

This is one of my favourite hotels of all time and I love the restaurant. You can’t beat the welcome you get here and the Murphys, who own it, know a thing or two about hospitality. Their understated, attentive charm is a rare find. I’d eat the sliced beef from the trolley accompanied by a bottle of old Bordeaux – it’s a thing of dreams. If you’ve time to explore, Adare itself is well worth a visit.

I believe it’s considered to be one of Ireland’s most beautiful towns and has heritage status – think charming thatched cottages and Medieval churches. dunravenhotel.com

FOOD FLIGHT

LUNCH

L’AMBROISIE PARIS

I had my most memorable meal at Bernard Pacaud’s Michelin threestar restaurant in Paris. It epitomises haute cuisine in my eyes and what an incredible man – he’s held those stars for 30 years. You practically need elocution lessons before you come here but I think it’s the finest dining room in Paris and is exactly what three stars should look like. I love the beauty of the building, the opulence of the dining room, the faultless service and, above all, the incredible menu – my absolute stand-out dish is Poulet de Bresse with truffle for two – a perfectly indulgent lunch. ambroisie-paris.com

Meath man Richard Corrigan (54) is chef/patron of Corrigan’s Mayfair, Bentley’s Oyster Bar and Grill, Dickie’s Bar, and the sprawling country pile Virginia Park Lodge in Co Cavan. A long-time champion of Irish produce and hospitality, he has blazed a gastronomic trail across London and in Ireland, as well as being instrumental in bringing contemporary Irish food and cooking to a greater audience.

DRINKS

THE DEAD RABBIT NEW YORK

BREAKFAST

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BRENT HERRIG

SMOKING GOAT LONDON

A trip to London isn’t complete without a jaunt to Shoreditch; I love the vibrancy there. Forget traditional breakfasts or brunches and try Smoking Goat instead. Think chilli roti and curry sauce, or smoked haddock with Thai gravy noodles, washed down with a Thai-style Bloody Mary, all served in a room with a laid-back and unpretentious atmosphere. Something a bit different and very tasty. smokinggoatbar.com

It has to be The Dead Rabbit, twice winner of the World’s Best Bar. Irish culture runs through their veins, so we brought consultant Gregory Buda over to our bar Dickie’s, to collaborate on our cocktail list too. The food and drinks list is faultless and they have an impressive list of Irish whiskeys. The atmosphere is equally impressive – just a no-nonsense, no-airsand-graces great Irish bar. deadrabbitnyc.com

WE ALL SCREAM

The British Museum of Food has relaunched with SCOOP: A Wonderful Ice Cream World, a show celebrating the past, present and future of the ambrosian after. Not your typical museum exhibit, SCOOP brings the timeless dessert to life in a total sensorily immersive environment – expect ice cream weather, eat glow-in-the-dark ice cream, understand the neuroscience of the frozen treat and explore the dark side of desserts. bmof.org

GRUB’S UP All the news that’s fit to devour, or sip, with Eoin Higgins.

PASSION PANTRY London-based Dubliner, chef Robin Gill’s debut opus, Larder: From Pantry to Plate – Delicious Recipes for Your Table, has oodles of innovative new/ old ways to sharpen your chops in the kitchen. It’s also a gateway to picking up a potential new foodie obsession, or two – the arts of brining, fermenting and curing all feature strongly. But it’s not just about creating a lovely larder; an impressive repertoire of recipes carries equal presence, while its beautiful photography, cool illustrations, concise writing and clear index make Larder just as accessible as its genial author – and a contemporary kitchen staple.

MENU MASTERCLASS: CHAMPAGNE SUPERNOVA THE PLACE Wilde Restaurant at The Westbury, Harry Street, Dublin 2, 01 646 3352; wilde.ie. THE DISH Grilled Dover Sole, Crispy Gnocchi, Green Asparagus, Saffron Aioli. THE DRINK Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2008. (Part of the three-course tasting menu with matching champagnes for €95)

5 RADIANT ROASTERS

Bailies Coffee Roasters are a world-class roastery, with a slick R&D lab and their strong relationships with Direct Trade farmers. bailiescoffee.com

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Ireland’s homegrown coffee roasting scene is as stimulating as it is full-flavoured.

Meet five compelling coffee companies upholding the nation’s rad’ roast reputation.

Beautifully-packaged, Cloud Picker were Dublin’s first micro-roasters, they hand roast “gently for bright, fruity and clean coffee”. cloudpickercoffee.ie

A relative newcomer, Upside source high-grade green coffee and roast it with a focus on quality and consistency. upsidecoffee.com

Roasted Brown are a specialty roastery who pride themselves on sourcing and roasting “quality driven, sustainably produced coffee”. roastedbrown.com

3FE source their coffee from “the best farms and co-ops worldwide” and supply coffee to cafés and ship bags all over Ireland. 3fe.com

NATHAN PASK/FEASTING BY BOMPAS & PARR FOR ANOVA BOOKS

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OVER 230 YEARS OF STORIES WAITING TO BE EXPLORED. BOOK AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM

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BEST POP-UP CINEMA

ILLUSTRATION BY TARA O’BRIEN

Pop some kernels and settle down for our round-up of this month’s blockbusting outdoor film screenings, whispers Lucy White.

LEOPARDSTOWN IRELAND Grease and

American Graffiti had many of us yearning to swap our plush red auditorium seats for Cadillacs.

Retro Drive-In at Leopardstown Racecourse in Dún LaoghaireRathdown taps into classic American pop culture, offering outdoor screenings this month of Mean Girls and Dirty Dancing, both on August 4; The Greatest Showman Sing-a-Long on August 4-5 and Bridesmaids on August 5, with more to come. retrodrivein.ie

TORONTO CANADA

The eighth instalment of the Christie Pitts Film Festival

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focuses on “Cinematic Cities”: August 5 sees Paris in all its romantic glory in a screening of Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s Amélie; on August 12, Richard Linklater’s one-night whirl around Vienna in Before Sunrise and a surprise double bill on August 18-19.

Screenings are all in Christie Pitts Park and admission is by donation – pay what you can afford, basically. christiepitsff.com

LONDON UK Did our

hearts love ’til Secret Cinema?

Immersive film par excellence organisers present Baz Luhrmann’s superb 1996 Romeo + Juliet this August 8-25 in a festival-style location disclosed

only to ticket holders. More an experience than a screening, around 5,000 star-crossed fans in fancy dress will descend on this large-scale set piece recreating Verona Beach with live bands, DJs and themed food and drink stalls. secretcinema.org

PARIS FRANCE Parisians with a love of film and a limited attention span will find Festival Silhouette just the ticket: it showcases short films. Located in the Parc de la Butte du Chapeau Rouge in the 19th arrondissement this August 24 until September 1, soirées begin with a live concert performed by rising musicians before the 20,000-strong

audience throws down blankets for a succession of innovative shorts. association-silhouette.com

LOS ANGELES USA

Where better than in the City of Stars to watch an outdoor film? We love the concept of the multi-venue Street Food Cinema, whose gustatory offerings are as fine as the featured movies. On August 18 are The Lion King in Crystal Springs Park and a 75th anniversary screening of Casablanca in Pasadena’s Victory Park. But what’s the likelihood of eating “slippery little suckers” during Pretty Woman on August 11 at Will Rogers State Historic Park? streetfoodcinema.com

Immerse yourself in tales of sacrifice, adventure and triumph at EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum, the world’s only fully digital museum. Interactive, enlightening and visually beautiful, it tells the captivating story of a small island with a big impact on the world. Discover the inspiring history of Ireland and its people, uncover your Irish roots at the Irish Family History Centre and leave with an overwhelming pride in Irish heritage.

Open 7 days a week 10am–6:45 (last entry 5pm) CHQ, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1

BOOK ONLINE epicchq.com

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Once upon a time...

Stories of our past are celebrated during National Heritage Week. Gemma Tipton points towards some good yarns.

F

ascinated by follies? Hot for heritage? Craving castles?

National Heritage Week comes to Ireland this month and brings with it more than 2,000 events across the country. Topics range from flying mammals to the aquatic: bat walks take place in various spots, from Monaghan to Laois to Lismore, and there’s plenty of happenings on the rivers and shorelines of Ireland.

This year a key theme is storytelling and there’s no one like the Irish for spinning yarns. Our history has been handed down to us through stories, so the organisers are keen to encourage the young, the old and the new Irish to get stuck into shaping how we understand the Ireland of today.

If you fancy seeing stars, meet in Caherdaniel in Co Kerry for a torch-lit stroll to soak up some ancient rock art, made some 5,000 years ago. Then look up to discover the stories and myths associated with the constellations

above Co Kerry’s renowned Dark Sky Reserve (August 19). There’s more for lovers of archaeology at Glendalough in Co Wicklow, where you can take a guided tour of the UCD School of Archaeology excavations on this historic and beautiful site (August 20-24).

Alongside our storytelling abilities, if there’s one thing Ireland is famous for it’s our horses, and some of the best horse lore has been handed down by the Traveller community. Get to know the classic Irish Cob and soak up the culture at the Irish Cobs and the Traveller Way event at Devine Equestrian in Co Longford (August 23).

In Co Donegal, the McDonald family keep up a 750-year-old tradition of boat-making, creating and restoring classic Foyle Punts.

They have just been the subject of a play by The Local Group, and you can catch up with them at the Moville Men’s Shed on Moville Pier; find out about fishing and get

Archaeology fans can take a guided tour of excavations on Glendalough’s historic site from August 20-24.

to row a punt too before tucking into some seaweed treats (seriously!) on August 25.

There are plenty of familyfriendly events, so whether your little ones love lace making, fiery furnaces, bloody battles or getting up close and personal with creepy crawlies, there’s something to please.

Check out the Wild Child Day Bug Hunt at The Fairy House in Castlerea, Co Roscommon (August 22); the Gallowshill Archaeology Festival in Co Waterford, which includes Medieval craft workshops for children (August 19); or the Furnace Festival, including blacksmithing, at Woodford, Co Galway (August 25-26).

Heritage Week runs from August 18-26 around Ireland and, as this is the European Year of Cultural Heritage, there’s no better time to celebrate the glories of the past. Admission to all the events described above is free but booking may be required. Full details at heritageweek.ie.

BERLIN CULTURE FIX NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM All summer long, Berlin’s museums shake off any notions of stuffiness with parties, picnics, tours and concerts, but the Long Night of Museums has to be the highlight. Taking place this year on August 25, museums across the city stay open until 2am, with shuttle

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buses to help you on your way. So, whether you fancy cocktails with the dinosaurs at the Museum of Natural History, or art and dance performances in the most unexpected settings, it’s a night to remember. Tickets €18. lange-nacht-der-museen.de

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HOMEMADE

SHOPPING BASKETS AT THE READY FOR OUR ROUND-UP OF THE CLASSIEST IRISH JEWELLERY, SILKS AND HOMEWARE.

1. FANCY PLANTS

Plastic “terracotta” plant pots. Yawn.

Spruce up your foliage with a linen holder designed, printed and finished

by Liz Walsh and Monika Gleeson in their studio/shop at 29 Bride Street in Dublin 8. From €18.50 in store.

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2. GEO DECO

Dublin jeweller Yvonne Ryan does gorgeous things with gold, silver and diamonds, not least this gold-plated Art Deco Necklace – delicate enough to assert elegance yet bold enough to encite envy … €130 at yvonneryan.ie.

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3. RESTFUL METAL

Copper, aluminium, pewter and quartz are among the materials used in textile designer Aoife Mullane’s gilded cushion covers, each one unique and handcrafted in Wicklow. €160 at amullanedesign.com.

4. SMOOTH AS ...

Manufactured by a Fairtrade outfit in Jaipur but designed in Ireland, Ethical Silk Company’s collection includes matte-lustre, linenlike Mulberry silk loungewear and bedding. From €30 at theethicalsilkco. com.

5. KELP HELP

Gussy up a sad wall with a seaweed print inspired by Superfolk’s forages around the West Coast. Crafted at their Westport studio using print blocks, ink and handmade Japanese paper. From €78 at superfolk.com.

6. LOOKING SHARP

If cut-crystal summons visions of your dad’s golfingtrophy cabinet, rest your eyes on these immensely beautiful Elements Hi Ball Glasses by J Hill’s Standard, made in Dungarvan. €160 each at jhillsstandard.com.

COMPOSED BY

PRODUCED BY

DIRECTED BY

B I L L WH E LAN

MOYA D OHE RT Y

JOHN Mc CO L G A N

“The Original…The Best”

NOW ON until 9 September

DUBLIN

www.riverdance.com www.ticketmaster.ie Box Office: +353 (0)1456 9569 Groups: groups@gaietytheatre.com In Person at the Gaiety Theatre Box Office VIP Experience Available

12 - 16 September - One week only Box Office: + 353 (0) 646671555 www.ticketmaster.ie INEC.ie

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican noses through the season’s best photo books, classy beach reads, podcasts and events.

KUÇEDRA: PORTRAITS OF LIFE ON EUROPE’S LAST WILD RIVER BY NICK ST OEGGER (self-published, €25) The Vjosa is Europe’s last “wild”, eg undammed river, running from Greece through southern Albania to the Adriatic Sea, creating a unique biosphere for endangered plant and animal species and supporting agricultural communities.

In Albanian mythology, the Kuçedra is a kind of dragon whose awakening brings misfortune to the land, blocking rivers and bringing droughts and floods. This is the metaphor Dublin-based photographer Nick St Oegger from California uses for his marvellous book capturing the Vjosa, its landscape and people. A collaboration with Patagonia and NGOs RiverWatch and Euronatur, it supports the Save the Blue Heart of Europe campaign, which seeks to end investment in destructive hydropower projects that would permanently alter the flows of Balkan rivers, harming life within and displacing thousands who live along the banks. On sale at stoeggerphotography.com.

FICTION CODEX 1962 by Sjón (Sceptre) “Magical realism” doesn’t quite cover the blend of fantasy, myth, history, expressionism, drama and sci-fi in this award-winning trilogy

by Iceland’s most famous author, translated into English for the first time. This is the tale of Jósef Lowe, from his birth in 1962 to the present: the first book a love story, the second crime and the third sci-fi. Expect everyone on the beach to be reading this.

MEMOIR THE SHOEMAKER AND HIS DAUGHTER by Conor O’Clery (Penguin, released August 23) A former Moscow correspondent for The Irish Times, Conor O’Clery follows the story of Russia, from Stalin’s Soviet Union to Putin today, through the narrative of his wife’s family, the Suvorovs, who lived a comfortable life in Chechnya, until their father – the shoemaker of the title – was imprisoned in 1962 for five years for the crime of selling a car for profit.

THRILLER THROUGH HOLLOW LANDS

by Thomas Paul Burgess (Urbane) Dante’s Inferno, Groundhog Day and It’s a Wonderful Life feed into this thriller of one man’s purgatory trapped within one terrible day, September 11, 2001. George Bailey has a girlfriend and a discarded mistress, mother of his “illegitimate” son, and he has stolen from his boss, a paedophile pornographer, and he needs to make it out of Las Vegas, dead …

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DOWNLOAD PODCAST THE PARIS REVIEW

MODERN MONSTER Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein is a tale for our AI age and Frnknstn, a Theatre Lovett production written by Michael West, has created a “modern mutation” of the classic, “re-imagining Victor Frankenstein as a genesplicing molecular biologist who creates human life from his own DNA with catastrophic results”. The play runs at the Abbey Theatre, Dublin, August 17 to September 1. abbeytheatre.ie

This quarterly literature magazine, established in 1953 by expat Americans in Paris, has a terrific back catalogue. This is showcased in their podcast billed as “an audio odyssey through the life and times of The Paris Review, featuring a phantasmagoric blend of classic stories and poems; interviews with the likes of James Baldwin, Jack Kerouac and Dorothy Parker; and new work and original readings by the cutting-edge writers of our time.” It’s amazing to hear the voices of the greats – Eudora Welty’s sent me running back to her work – and the readers are brilliant.

The jury is out on the sound effects – alternately intriguing and annoying – but this is a very classy podcast.

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If you could fly anywhere tomorrow, to where would it be?

I absolutely have to go to Mexico; it saddens me that I have never been. Along with my love for the cuisine, I am a huge Frida Kahlo fan and would love to learn more about her country and its fascinating culture. I wouldn’t go there tomorrow though, I would wait until October 31 so that I could experience Día de los Muertos.

Three fantasy fellow travellers? Chloë Sevigny – I feel like she would know where to eat, drink and shop, as well as being the coolest woman on the planet. Léon the Professional (Jean Reno) because I think he would protect me if I ended up in a bad part of town. That and he is also beautiful and I have had a crush on him since 1994. My dad, circa 1988. He was a total adventurer and always knew where poets drank, where actors had affairs or where famous crimes had happened. I can only imagine how much more exploring we would do if we still could.

World’s best hotel and why? Villa la Coste in Provence – the most magical place on Earth.

Set perfectly overlooking Château la Coste’s sensational grounds, this hotel has everything you could possibly need to live and die happy.

Its minimal decor gives you room to breathe and every wall is decorated with exquisite art by the likes of Louise Bourgeois, Tracey This Emin and Damien Hirst.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK

summer I will be reading … Joan Didion, Joan Didion, Joan Didion …

Domino Whisker is an Irish artist, Dublin-based, by way of Los Angeles. She spent her childhood years on America’s West Coast, but always longing for home she returned to her native land and has settled back in Ireland. Her work, realised in delicate and sometimes emotive embroidery, below right, reflects her life and past experiences and can be seen on display at Brown Thomas CREATE until August 13.

Capsule wardrobe?

Meanwhile, details of her embroidery Ray-Bans. Black Dr courses can be found at dominowhisker.com.

Marten 1461s. Anything by

Mariad Whisker [her mum].

High-waisted trousers and skirts.

Your favourite bar abroad – and what’s your poison there? The Misfit in Santa Monica. A 1920s-style bar, beautifully designed and always bustling with stylish people. I used to work across the street so this was a regular happy hour spot after a long day. I have to have Pimm’s Punch whenever I’m there, which is served in a tiny, antique glass cup. They used to offer a Pimm’s Punch Bowl that serves four people, though there is a possibility it was removed from the menu after the last time I ordered it.

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Most memorable childhood holiday?

Shortly after our family moved to LA in 1994, we road-tripped up the Pacific Coast Highway and stopped in San Luis Obispo to see Hearst Castle and stay at the Madonna Inn where mum and dad had honeymooned.

Later we drove out to the desert, which was otherworldly to me, coming from Ireland.

Climbing rocks in Death Valley and swimming in the hot springs, California will always be my favourite holiday.

DESIGNING, WEAVING & TAILORING

Men | Women | Accessories | Home Magee of South Anne Street - Magee at Arnotts - Magee of Donegal Magee1866.com

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5 GOOD REASONS ... … to get to know the Grand Lady of the Ionian Islands.

Eoin Higgins courts Corfu.

THIS OLD TOWN Corfu, at various times during its history, has come under Venetian, British and French rule. The Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Centre, belies all these foreign influences while maintaining a singular character.

Surrounded by three Venetian fortresses – that were used to defend the strategic town from Ottoman incursions against the Venetian Republic – history emanates from its neoclassical architecture, hidden gardens and cobbled streets.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to CORFU twice weekly.

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SAIL AWAY Surprisingly, one of the best things you can do on this beautiful island is leave it, but not in the way that you might think. Take a speedy hydrofoil ride or slower boat trip to island-hop your way to the nearby – and

paradisiacal – island of Paxos. The journey takes between one and two hours and costs approximately €20. From there, you can also visit Paxos’s sister isle, Antipaxos, close by.

MUSEUM MUSING If you’re a mustard-keen museum maven, a stimulating day can be spent museum hopping.

From the Asian Art Museum, to the Andivouniótissa Museum, Paleó Froúrio, and the Mon Repos villa-museum at Paleopolis, there is a bundle of beautiful and fascinating objets and edifices to take in on the island. For a slightly leftfield but equally fascinating visit, try the Patounis Soap Factory – the pleasantsmelling, 19th-century building it’s housed in is itself a worthy attraction.

MAKE A SPLASH Wash away any fustiness acquired through historical pursuits with a dunk, bob, slip or slide at fun hydro attraction, Aqualand, in the centre of the island.

With free sun beds and umbrellas, changing rooms and showers, high quality food, shops and free parking spaces available, it’s as practically equipped as it is frivolously. Smile the day away on pools, kayaks, slides and rides for kids from four-years-of-age and up. aqualand-corfu.com

ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN

BEACH LIFE Íssos, Halikoúnas, Myrtiotissa, Ágios Geórgios Págon … these are just a bucket and spadeful of the many idyllic beaches found on this compact, yet resort-laden island. Think bold turquoise seas, golden sandy stretches flanked by prehistoric rock formations, all illuminated by the energising sunlight that bathes the island daily.

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MAJESTIC

100

Yvonne Gordon checks into Barcelona’s original luxury hotel, the Majestic Hotel & Spa. here’s something about strolling Barcelona’s Passeig de Gràcia that evokes the spirit of the past – you can almost picture its original 19th-century residents walking along the wide boulevard, which is lined with leafy trees, rows of old street lamps and elegant buildings with tall, shuttered windows and ornate balconies overlooking the street below.

Here too sit some of the city’s most striking Modernista constructions – the playful Casa Batlló townhouse, a Gaudí masterpiece with its tiled mosaics and mask-shaped balconies; its Neo-Gothic neighbour, the colourful Casa Amatller by Puig i Cadafalch, and of course Gaudí’s Casa Milà – nicknamed “La Pedrera” – with its curvy exterior and playful rooftop chimneys.

The avenue, which takes its name from the Gràcia district and stretches a mile from there to Plaça Catalunya, Barcelona’s main square, has become home to modernday luxury fashion brands and Michelin-starred restaurants. But it’s here, on a corner, that a grande dame from the past still sits proudly.

The 100-year old Majestic Hotel

T

& Spa, Barcelona’s first luxury hotel, has welcomed all sorts of guests, from royalty to musicians, movie stars and artists, since it opened in 1918 and this year it celebrates its centenary in style.

It’s from the rooftop pool and restaurant La Dolce Vitae, that I first appreciate the hotel’s location over a leisurely lunch. The city is pleasantly low-rise so vistas stretch to both the sea and mountains as well as the famous spires of the yet unfinished Gaudí creation, Sagrada Familia. In my spacious, two-room junior suite on the fourth floor (45 of the hotel’s 271 rooms are suites), I have a 40-square-metre space well equipped with everything from a marble bathroom with a rainshower to a Nespresso coffee machine, king-size bed and fancy toiletries from Atelier Cologne (which they even mist in the corridors and leave samples at turn-down). Best of all, I can throw open the balcony doors and take in the sounds of the street: the chat from people sitting outdoors, mixed with birdsong and the hum of cars and scooters, while the buildings across the avenue take on a pink hue in the evening sun.

The Majestic Hotel & Spa has a longstanding connection to the art world and its impressive

¡Hola gorgeous!

Double rooms at the Majestic Hotel & Spa cost from €289 per night. hotelmajestic.es

WHAT TO PACK The Shadow of the Wind

by Carlos Ruiz Zafón Buttoned Shirt (Orion), €12.60 at Dress, €39.95 at eason.com zara.com

Heeled Suede Strap Sandal, €79 at stories.com

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Marni Trunk Leather Shoulder Bag, €1,390 at brownthomas.com

Silk Shirt with Asymmetric Hem, €99 at cosstores.com

1,000-piece collection of paintings and sculptures is on display throughout the property. The artist Joan Miró visited regularly to study a painting by Modest Urgell in the lobby, and the hotel now has a partnership with the Miró Foundation (fmirobcn.org), helping to raise funds to restore a Miró tapestry and also offering guided tours of his birthplace, Mont-roig del Camp, and former home, El Mas Miró, to guests.

Catalonian cuisine is honoured at the new first-floor Restaurant Solc, with chefs selecting produce from the hotel’s own farm in Maresme just a few kilometres’ away from the hotel, and local fish and meat suppliers, to create dishes such as l’Escala anchovies with seaweed bread, or red prawn and rockfish casserole with saffron gnocchi, paired with wine from the Alta Alella Winery. Every Friday, there’s a centenary menu with dishes from 100 years ago, such as consommé and filet mignon. It’s a nice nod to the past for a stylish hotel that is ready for another 100 years.

Atelier Cologne, Musc Impérial (30ml), €80 including leather case, from Hotel Majestic & Spa

Poppy Visor sunglasses, €20 at topshop.com

benetti.ie

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THE OUTDOORS Miami is super bike-friendly. We normally start off on 15th Street and make our way down Ocean Drive. If you have kids, there are excellent playgrounds along the way – and if not, stop by Smith and Wollensky steakhouse (1 Washington Avenue, +1 305 673 2800; smithandwollensky. com) for a sunset beer, watching the cruise liners head out to the Caribbean. If you’re hungry on the way back, there’s the famous Joe’s Stone Crab (11 Washington Ave, +1 305 673 0365; joesstonecrab.com).

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

MIAMI Florida’s glitziest city also has laid-back appeal, says Irish expat Niall Merry.

MORE ABOUT NIALL Dublin-born Niall Merry moved to Miami four years ago with his wife and two children, after spending more than ten years in the Caribbean. He is now a partner with an international software company and lives in South Miami.

THE NIGHTSPOT The nightclubs in Miami are generally expensive and no different from anything you’ve seen before. But, for late-night drinking that won’t let you down, there’s a peach of a drinking hole called Lagniappe. A ten-minute Uber ride from South Beach, it sells only beer and wine and you pick it out as if you were in an off-licence. It also does great cheese and meat plates, and music plays nightly in the outdoor area. (3425 NE 2nd Avenue, +1 305 576 0108; lagniappehouse.com)

THE MUST-DO If you like good beer, graffiti, casual food and walking, don’t miss Wynwood (thewynwoodwalls. com). You can spend hours just strolling around, taking in all the amazing street art and galleries, while stopping off at Wynwood Yard (thewynwoodyard.com) for great dishes, beers and music. Tip: if you’re going to Wynwood with children, weekend mid-mornings are best as there are scheduled children’s activities.

THE SHOPPING Lincoln Road on South Beach is good for big-brand shopping – and people-watching – but Coconut Grove (coconutgrove. com) is old school Miami and has an abundance of small independent stores that wouldn’t look out of place in Amsterdam or London’s Soho.

Don’t leave without trying the ice cream at Vicky’s, a restaurant annex where the owner refitted his mother’s 1980s kitchen and sitting room and created an ice cream parlour. Complete with an old Nintendo. (3190 Commodore Plaza, Coconut Grove; +1 305 442 3377; vickyshouse.com) THE EATERY Miami has plenty of high-end international restaurants but, with all its different cultures, there are plenty of off-the-tourist-trail gems. One of my favourites is the very small Lung Yai, a Thai tapas restaurant in the middle of Little Havana. Do not expect anything flash and expect to queue (they don’t take bookings) but it’s worth it.

(1731 SW 8th Street, +1 786 334 6262)

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SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MIAMI three times per week.

See more at www.newbridgesilverware.com

O CEAN CO LLECTION WITH NAOMI CAMPBELL

INTERVIEW

The

NOISE of WATERS Conor O’Brien, frontman of Villagers, has been making music since his teens, but it’s his fifth album that reveals new-found pleasures of rhythm and getting his groove on.

WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS MARK DUGGAN

I

“

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’m just a weird space cadet who writes some songs,” says Conor O’Brien. It’s an offhand self-assessment, we agree, but not without a sliver of truth. Conor and Cara are having a good natter in what to the geographically uninformed eye could either be a seaside village bistro in the south of France or, perhaps, a coastal retreat in sunny Cornwall. We are, in fact, sitting in the new restaurant at Clontarf Baths, enjoying enviously Mediterranean-like views.

Conor is used to such views, having been raised in Dún Laoghaire (south Co Dublin) and then, from his early 20s, having lived in the north Co Dublin town of Malahide.

Being close to the sea and associated elements during his youth and early adulthood must have done wonders to the creative spirit that filters through him like slow-release scent from a candle. He is a gift to talk with: witty,

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hospitable, smart. He is also a discerning interviewee, reluctant to offer a glib answer – at least once during our chat, he mulls over a question and lobs it back at me.

Symptomatic, perhaps, of a keen questioning nature, there is little that gets past him.

O’Brien’s profile and stature as a songwriter are such that it’s difficult to believe, as he reaches his mid-30s that he has been honing his craft from the age of 14. He now has a bona fide back catalogue of work – four albums under his nom de guerre, Villagers, and one from his first band, The Immediate – each of which is imbued with natural gifts for blending imaginative lyrics with music that veers from rousing to serene.

“When I was 12,” recalls Conor, once the bearer of a bushy beard but now clean-shaven, as befits a musician with a new, fresh-faced album coming out, “my brother gave me his

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INTERVIEW

guitar and taught me a few chords.

I remember writing a song about two weeks later and knowing that wanting to be a musician was all I cared about. After that, no one saw me after school; I just couldn’t wait to get back home so I could start playing music and writing.”

Can he remember the first song he wrote that convinced him he had what it takes to swim in the music industry’s shark-infested waters?

Almost 20 years ago, he says with a wry grin, he wrote a song and sent it into the 2FM/Jacobs Song Contest. “It was called This Mirror in the Hall, and it was the first ‘deep’ song I’d written. I was proud of it, but I heard nothing back.”

Undaunted, he ploughed ahead with music. Whilst studying at college and working odd jobs (“a bank, a café, a waiter in Tea Time Express at the ferry terminal in Dún Laoghaire ...”), he formed his first band, The Immediate, which released a superb debut album, In Clouds and Towers (and which broke up shortly after due to “existential differences”). He then spent almost two years as a member of Irish singer Cathy Davey’s band, a period of time that fortified him as both a musician and a person.

After that came Villagers, which has turned out to be the lasting umbrella title for his songs, whether they be multi-layered or economical.

“... Music is where you go to if you’re looking for joy or to feel good – I’m at peace with becoming an entertainer.”

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With the fourth album, The Art of Pretending to Swim, due for release in September, O’Brien once again delivers a record brimming with ideas and insight, melodies and refrains. It differs from 2015’s third album, Darling Arithmetic, by being more attached to the pleasures of rhythm.

When he formed Villagers ten years ago, it was, he says, “a reaction to playing in a full-on band. I was interested in going the opposite direction and, in doing so, making people almost uncomfortable with some of the songs. I relished walking on stage, looking like a 12-year-old with a bowl haircut.”

These days, however, O’Brien’s energies are located elsewhere.

“Maybe it’s an age thing but I’m more excited about the idea of using music to move people, to dance to. I’m not that interested in giving people a template on which they think they’re hearing existential diatribes on why love isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. I feel now that music is where you go to if you’re looking for joy or to feel good – I’m at peace with becoming an entertainer.”

This is said seriously and, perhaps, for good reason. O’Brien sensed he was starting to become a victim of his own prowess as a lyric writer.

Across the three previous Villagers’ albums, his songs have been viewed as examples of linguistic excellence, yet he suspects he has more to say as a musician than as a wordsmith.

While Darling Arithmetic’s unobtrusive songs ring clear with erudition and honesty about sexuality and its place in O’Brien’s world, The Art of Pretending to Swim sees him swat aside the private for the party vibe.

“I wasn’t thinking of a narrative sense for the new album,” he begins.

“I was using the words as reasons to make the music and the music is very much feelings-based. I was listening to a lot of soul and gospel music, which was the complete antidote to my weird, overanalytical, anxiety-ridden brain.

I wanted to make music that would bring me there and do my own version of it to a certain extent.

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INTERVIEW

BOOKS “Whilst reading The Gospel According to Blindboy,

by Blindboy Boatclub of The Rubberbandits, I’ve never laughed so much. I think his brain is amazing. The last book I read was I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings by Maya Angelou and that just blew my mind. I was listening to a lot of soul and gospel music, and reading the autobiography of her early years was very instructive.”

MOVIES “I watched Call Me

by Your Name, which stars Timothée Chalamet, two nights in a row. It was slightly clichéd at certain moments in the way they treated relationships but I loved it.

Another film I loved was the Scandinavian satire The Square, which won the Palme d’Or at Cannes last year and was Oscar-nominated for Best Foreign Language film.”

“Essentially, I’m mulling over aspects of Musically and Lyrically, for Becoming a faith and the idea of how that is aligned Jackal; in 2016, Best Album, for Darling with God, religion. When I was very Arithmetic), he admits before the interview young I was obsessed with praying; for wraps up that needing to write words in years and years, every night I would have order to get his points across can be a drag. to pray, and I would name everybody “I started the new album thinking I was I knew in the world and pray that they going to make an electronic side-project were all going to be safe. Of course, during record but then I messed it up by teenage years you get quite cynical. I’m writing stories.” now in my mid-30s, and it doesn’t really Messed it up? But isn’t that what he matter what you’re focusing on in terms of does; isn’t that what he’s genuinely good faith – or whatever you want to call your at? Conor is too modest to answer directly personal God – because it’s more about but allows that the general arc of his the actions you do to express that. With songwriting has “slowly moved from overThe Art of Pretending to Swim, I wanted thinking to holding onto a groove a bit to express a certain kind of joy in having more. I’m hoping that the next album will faith in life, or love, or God, or anything.” have fewer words on it and the one after We leave Conor in the safe hands of the that will be Music for Airports!” stylists and the photographer for the cover The Art of Pretending to Swim is released on shoot. The sun continues to glint and September 21. Villagers tour the UK/Europe Clontarf continues to look like an escapee throughout October and November, and are from brighter, more celebrated regions. curating/headlining this year’s Metropolis From “looking like a 12-year-old with a festival at Dublin’s RDS on October 27. bowl haircut” to a two-time winner of wearevillagers.com Ivor Novello Awards (in 2011, Best Song 44 |

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THEATRE “I went to Belfast

dancer Oona Doherty’s show Hard to Be Soft, at Dublin’s Abbey Theatre earlier this year. It was such a strong piece of work, where she expressed her feelings about growing up in Belfast through dance and sound collage, the latter of which was provided

by David Holmes.”

MUSIC “I really like the

Dublin band, The Fontaines DC. I saw them play a headline gig a few months ago and they were brilliant. They have it all and I’m so happy they recently signed to a record label and that they’re touring. I’m also listening to dreamy spiritual jazz, people like Pharoah Sanders, Alice Coltrane, John Coltrane.”

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THE

TASTEMAKERS Ireland’s food and drinks scene has never tasted so good.

Here we meet twentysomething professionals who are determined to give native fare a world-class reputation.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS MELANIE MULLAN

I

t may appear that the Irish hospitality industry is in crisis, with every other bar, café and restaurant seeking staff. But despite the often gruelling hours, there are plenty of young dynamos out there determined to set the scene alight and inspire the same passion in their customers. They see the value of top Irish produce, of creating a world-class reputation.

Ireland has a rich food and drinks history that far surpasses the stereotypes of Guinness and potatoes. From wild smoked salmon and fresh oysters to excellent quality beef and Connemara mountain lamb, producers go above and beyond to deliver the highest quality ingredients. Working closely with chefs to ensure that only the finest ingredients are served, it’s a symbiotic relationship that’s putting Ireland on the international food tourism map. Same for our drinks industry; brewers and distillers source the highest quality ingredients for their spirits and beer, and bars have never been happier to champion Irish products to their millennial

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punters bedazzled by the latest hip gin.

This new food and drinks vanguard is forging ahead in the footsteps of current kitchen heroes, from Clenaghans’ Danni Barry to Chapter One’s Ross Lewis – previous to them, the late Myrtle Allen, who was the country’s biggest advocate for supporting local and seasonal produce. Meanwhile, the brothers Teeling, Stephen and Jack, have inspired the drinks industry to think big.

Organisations such as Euro-Toques Ireland (established by Myrtle Allen in 1986) are nurturing talent by not only hosting workshops, food awards and upskilling initiatives, but also running an annual Young Chef of the Year competition. Similarly, Jameson offers a range of graduate programmes.

With so much to shout about on our island and plenty to look forward to, we speak to seven young bucks who are determined to ensure that the future of Ireland’s food and drinks industry is in safe hands.

KATHERINE CONDON Day supervisor at Jameson Whiskey Distillery, Co Cork It was a tour during her college days of Midleton’s Jameson Distillery, with head distiller Brian Nation, that inspired Katherine Condon, 26, to get into the industry.

His passion was contagious and, in August 2014, the recently qualified engineer joined the graduate distiller programme. “That tour captivated me,” she says. “It was interesting and I was curious.” She joined just as the attraction was opening its microdistillery and considers it good timing because she saw its entire installation and got to experiment with distilling and new products.

From there she moved to the main distillery as a process technologist and, more recently, was promoted to daytime supervisor. Aside from her daily duties that include sorting maintenance works and permits for general upkeep of the machinery, Katherine has her hand in all areas. She’s part of the sensory panel that experiments with different flavours and aromas, evaluates spirits to ensure they’re suitable for barrelling or bottling and is an ambassador for the brand at whiskey fairs and launches. For her, the love of the job makes the extra hours worth it. Does she hope to follow in Brian Nation’s footsteps one day? “I loved being a distiller down in the microdistillery but it’s a time-honoured craft. It takes years; you can’t learn it from a book.”

PEOPLE | THE TASTEMAKERS

KILLIAN CROWLEY Chef de Partie at Aniar Restaurant, Galway Belgian-born Killian Crowley, 26, counts himself lucky that he always knew he wanted to be a chef.

Starting in cooking school at the age of 15 and spending summers staging (interning) in Michelinstar restaurants, he began refining his skills. “That’s where I learned a lot,” he says, “how hard it’s going to be and how good it is when you know how to do the best.” He moved to Ireland in 2015 with a desire to learn more about Irish food, with online research directing him to Galway’s Aniar – where he has been making a mark ever since. “When I first came to Aniar, it was very different,” he recalls.

“I was used to working in a big kitchen but this was a young business, with a young chef and big ideas, and I thought ‘I want to be a part of this.’” For Killian, product knowledge is as important as creating what’s placed in front of the customer. “You want to learn what the product is made of, otherwise how can you tell the stories to the customers?” This approach is as fervent as his work ethic; when the restaurant is closed, he spends his holidays learning new culinary techniques, such as chorizo making with Fingal Ferguson of Gubbeen in West Cork. “You have to be out of your comfort zone every day,” Killian adds.

GAVIN CLIFFORD Founder Bonac Irish Gin, Co Wicklow A short drive from Dublin, in Newtownmountkennedy, Co Wicklow, is where Gavin Clifford, 26, distills, bottles and labels his Bonac Irish Gin. “You can come down here and not leave until you walk out with an actual finished bottle in your hand,” he remarks. “That’s something that we’re quite proud of.” It was a six-week entrepreneurship course through college that first triggered the possibility of making his own spirit. “I had a big interest in the whole process of making spirits and we had John Teeling (co-founder of Teeling’s Whiskey) come in while I was studying commerce. He really caught my ear, it was really exciting.” This sparked something in Gavin and, after 18 months in the United States meeting spirit and beer makers, he returned to Ireland to set up the gin alongside his father, Michael.

The pair conducted extensive research and recipe experiments – 24 to be precise – before they struck liquid gold. Michael still runs his own business so it’s Gavin who largely manages the enterprise, which was launched in 2017. They recently started exporting to the UK and there are whispers about a gin school in Dublin. “We’re still a good few months off it,” he says, “but it was something that we experienced in Edinburgh and was always something we wanted to bring here.”

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PEOPLE | THE TASTEMAKERS

AISLING ROCK Chef at Dromoland Castle, Co Clare Currently working as a chef in Dromoland Castle, last year Aisling Rock, 21, earned herself the European Young Chef Award, competing against representatives of 20 other regions in Barcelona. She was there to represent Galway, which is this year’s host city of the competition run by the International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts and Tourism.

In October, her old stomping ground of Galway-Mayo Institute of Technology’s Culinary School will welcome a new crop of chefs. But how did she win over

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the judges? Cured mackerel, pickled and raw vegetables with sheep’s milk yoghurt salad, inspired by old traditions.

“I got the idea from Connemara, where they’d stack the mackerel in barrels in salt and leave it outside. That was how they did it in old times.” Aisling came out top in Spain and hasn’t stopped since. She graduates from college this year and has plans to travel the world working in “the highest of high Michelin restaurants”. But all roads eventually lead back to the West, where she one day hopes to have her own spot. “I want to come back and set up a small café and produce a high standard of food.

We’ll see if that actually works. I think in Clare. I love Clare.”

BRIAN McCARTHY AND JONNIE FOLEY Owners of Fourth Corner Pub, Dublin For events duo Brian McCarthy, 27, and Jonnie Foley, 28, opening a bar was a natural progression from their music-focused promotions company Bedlam. For Brian it was an opportunity to hone in on what they do. “As promoters it’s a little bit less clear what your business is, whereas this is bricks and mortar,” he says, while Jonnie notes that, “events are great but you finish it and there’s a

stop-gap there. This is a continuous thing that you can build on.” This Eureka moment led them to a little-known junction in Dublin 8 – infamously known as the Four Corners of Hell, where once four pubs marked each corner and each weekend brought with it brawls at closing time. The pair aimed to “tip the hat to the past” with considered interiors, including furniture made by one of Jonnie’s friends and an Instagrammable neon sign in the stairwell.

They now hope to expand with a takeaway hatch before trading as an early morning café.

“That’s the next mini-project,” says Jonnie.

“We’re figuring that out at the moment.”

CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND SIXT FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

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PEOPLE | THE TASTEMAKERS

ROISIN GILLEN Chef at Heron & Grey, Co Dublin Roisin Gillen, 29, shares a story that sums up her relationship with her team at Heron & Grey, the tiny Blackrock restaurant in south Co Dublin with which she gained her first of two Michelin stars in 2017, alongside head chef Damien Grey and co-owner/ general manager Andrew Heron.

While studying culinary arts, Roisin was encouraged to do a placement abroad like her fellow students. But with little funding available, this seemed to be pie in the sky. The team saw her drive (and disappointment) and hosted a non-profit dinner on their day off to help raise money for her placement. It worked like a charm and Roisin spent a month gaining more experience in Chicago at (the now) three-star Michelin winning restaurant Alinea. It has been quite the whirlwind but she is surprisingly humble when I mention that she’s probably the youngest chef in Ireland to gain the coveted award. “It was never my goal or plan,” Roisin reflects. “I definitely didn’t expect all of this to happen. It spiralled out of control really quickly … but in a good way.” Having recently graduated, she has now joined the Blackrock team full-time and is immersing herself in all areas. “Before, I was mainly focused on pastry. Since I’ve gone full-time, Chef has been putting me on butchery and pans so there’s a lot to learn.”

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DESTINATION | WICKLOW

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All around the GARDEN

Ireland’s “Garden County”, on Dublin’s doorstep, is usually seen as a day-trip destination but a Co Wicklow mini-break is something to savour.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS

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DESTINATION | WICKLOW

B

eneath a cerulean blue sky, there’s green. Luscious shades of chartreuse, fern, forest, pine and hunter. If Ireland is the Emerald Isle, then Wicklow might just be its most luminous facet. Especially in summer. But it’s not just 40 shades.

Here, there and everywhere are speckles and splashes of vivid colour too; wild flowers lace the landscape in abundance – Wicklow, the Garden of Ireland, is so-named for good reason.

I’m visiting Dublin’s southern neighbour to spend a little more time discovering its lush hinterland, devoting more time to the county than day-tripping Dubliners such as I usually do. Usually it’s a few hours spent driving through Sally Gap (an east-west road crossing over the Wicklow mountains that allows for breathtaking views over the county’s blanket bogs and soft peaks), or a quick jaunt into Greystones, or Bray, two

seaside towns that are popular with big city day-trippers looking for tasteful cafés and chic seafront attractions, or – equally satisfying – salty, take-away fish ‘n’ chips and sticky ice cream cones to consume al fresco.

My first port of call is further south, close to Wicklow’s border with Co Wexford. BrookLodge and Macreddin Village – see “Stay”, page 62 – is an eco resort in Aughrim, set up on the site of a fifth-century settlement where hens roam free, the food is organic and rejuvenating forest walks are on the doorstep. It’s not just natural attractions though.

There’s also a challenging Paul McGinley-designed golf course, a modern spa and plenty of cosy nooks and crannies for those who like a read, or a gentle catnap.

After a delicious evening spent at BrookLodge’s Strawberry Tree restaurant, and a stay in a suite that has a generous bath tub in the bedroom,

Previous pages, the sweeping, pristine gardens at Powerscourt Estate and the Sugarloaf mountain in the distance. Clockwise from above, exploring and recording in Powerscourt’s Japanese Garden; down by the river at Glendalough; a dishy dish at Bates Restaurant in Rathdrum.

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DESTINATION | WICKLOW

rise (early) to the sound of the swifts and house martins who nest in the eaves of the hotel. There are certainly less pleasant alarm clocks and, after a slow, tasty breakfast, I head east, to the Meeting of the Waters, where the Avonmore and Avonbeg rivers join currents to become the powerful Avoca.

The Meetings (themeetings.ie), a restaurant and bar, flanks a peaceful green whose relaxed atmosphere once prompted poet Thomas Moore to pen the following, part of his well-known ode to the locale: “There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet, As that vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet; Oh! the last rays of feeling and life must depart, Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart.” He wasn’t wrong, old Tom, it’s a bucolic spot that inspires reverie and relaxation.

From there, head further south, following the river to the town of Avoca, where one of the world’s oldest manufacturing companies, Avoca Handweavers (avoca.com), has had a presence since 1723. Set up by the industrious Wynne sisters – who, moving with the times in 1760, upgraded their business with a shuttle loom that led workers, anxious about possible unemployment, to set fire to the new technology – the business has a long and interesting history. No such Luddism exists today, thankfully, aside from a devotion to traditional design and 58 |

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longstanding weaving techniques. Take a tour of the compact workshop to see for yourself, as the contemporary weavers warp and weft amongst the looms, and perhaps pick up something from the onsite shop to take home – Avoca’s brightly coloured blankets or scarves are great Wicklow mementoes.

As venerable as the handweavers is, it’s a relative whippersnapper when compared to the ancient monastic site at Glendalough (glendalough.ie). Surviving from the sixth century and located around a half hour’s drive to the north of Avoca, it’s a remarkable place and not just for its historical riches – the surrounding scenery, including its upper and lower lakes, is unmatched. A spiritlifting afternoon can be spent noodling around the ruins and/or taking in some of the county’s best walking trails nearby.

Serious ramblers can follow in the footsteps of St Kevin – the founder and first abbot of the monastery – by walking St Kevin’s Way from Hollywood in West Wicklow to Glendalough (26 kilometres), while the hills and mountains around the site are a decent challenge for experienced climbers.

Jump in the car again for a half-hour, north-easterly sally to wholesome Delgany where great folks are fettling fine things for tasteful tables. The award-winning Firehouse Bakery (thefirehouse.ie)

Clockwise from far left, the grocer’s bike at Delgany Grocer; chef François Jacusse at Pigeon House restaurant, also in Delgany; hats the way to do it, afternoon tea in the garden at Hunter’s Hotel; fuller colour at Avoca Handweavers; Aisling Grace contemplates a dip in the pond at Powerscourt Estate; coffee and cake at Firehouse Bakery.

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DESTINATION | WICKLOW

has a well-earned reputation for its lovely loaves, pleasing pastries and wonderful wood-fired pizza, all of which can be had in its cosy onsite café or taken home. Next door, there’s great coffee by Roasted Brown (roastedbrown.com) who supply beans to some of the finest cafés in the vicinity and beyond.

There’s also a specialty food retailer in the form of the Delgany Grocer (@delganygrocer), as well as the muchloved – and lauded – Pigeon House (pigeonhouse.ie) restaurant and bar.

Well-fed and watered, it’s a short hop then to Powerscourt Estate, House and Gardens (powerscourt. com). One of Ireland’s greatest Palladian houses was built for the 1st Viscount Powerscourt, by one of the 18th-century’s finest architects, Richard Cassels, in 1741, yet it’s the great house’s spellbinding gardens that receive the limelight. And rightly so. Listed in third place by National Geographic in its World’s Top Ten Gardens list, the almost 60 |

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20 hectares comprise a sublime blend of sweeping terraces, statues, ornamental lakes, hidden hollows and walks. There’s also a walled garden, Italian Garden, Dolphin Pond, Japanese Gardens, Pets Cemetery and Pepperpot Tower to explore. Meanwhile, back in the big house, ascend the stairs to Tara’s Palace (childhoodmuseum.org) whose highlights include a 1/12th scale, Georgian palace with 24 rooms. Incredible work from some of the world’s greatest miniaturists is on display here, as well as a smileinducing selection of vintage toys, dolls and teddy bears.

Nearby, return to nature once again with a light picnic (you can purchase the delicious makings for it at the Powerscourt House Avoca branch) at Powerscourt Waterfall.

Set amongst lush parkland and surrounded by cool, oxygen-rich forest, sit back, breathe in, snack, relax and ... simply enjoy being in the garden.

Clockwise from top, BrookLodge, where the hens roam free; a slice of the action at Pigeon House; a burst of pink at Cappagh Nurseries, Aughrim.

titanic the Legend the Story

ExplorE thE sights, sounds and storiEs of rMs titanic at this world lEading visitor attraction in thE city whErE it all BEgan, BElfast, northErn irEland.

B o o k n o w at t i ta n i c b e l fas t.c o m

DESTINATION | WICKLOW

WICKLOW ESSENTIALS EAT POSH-ORGANIC The Strawberry Tree, where the tasting menu is pretty much unmissable, is a highlight of any BrookLodge/ Macreddin Village visit. This is a unique dining experience, from a menu that pays great homage to the absolute best of the locale’s natural and organic produce. The decor is singular in a good way too; make sure to take in that slightly surreal, wobbling glossy ceiling.

But the real star here is the food. (Macreddin Village, Aughrim, 0402 36444; brooklodge.com) COOL-CASUAL A good all-rounder, it may be argued that calling the Pigeon House just a casual restaurant takes away from the fact that what it does it does in a highly accomplished way. The recent addition of a wood-fired pizza oven has added an extra element of choice and style to a menu that already pleased most, if not all, comers. Good

quality and accessible, it’s a tightly run ship that also feels welcoming and warm. (Delgany village, 01 287 7103; pigeonhouse.ie) TASTY-RELIABLE Bates Restaurant in Rathdrum has been up and running, in one hospitality guise or another, since the late 18th century. The USPs are: honestly sourced and prepared food (think fresh seafood, the best of produce and excellent meats) cooked simply to make the most of the ingredients’ good providence, and a warm welcome.

Bates is a favourite among locals too, so reservations are recommended. (3 Market Street, Market Square, Rathdrum, 0404 29988; batesrestaurant.com)

STAY ECO Perfectly in tune with its all-natural, organic surroundings, BrookLodge is an idyllic rural retreat in the secluded heart of the Wicklow countryside. Bedrooms are spacious

with nods to “modern simplicity” in their decor.

A sense of working harmoniously with nature pervades, as well as a polite, friendly ambience.

A great escape. Rooms from €180. (Macreddin Village, Aughrim, 0402 36444; brooklodge.com) SWANKY Originally a Ritz-Carlton and approximately a 40-minute drive from Dublin airport, Powerscourt Hotel, beside the Powerscourt Gardens, admirably combines great appointment, luxury and contemporary conveniences. Enter through revolving doors, where a swish lobby leads on to a sweeping view of surrounding forest and further on to the Wicklow mountains. Staff are professional, helpful and friendly. Extra facilities include formal and casual dining, a restful spa, outdoor terrace for balmy nights and a machine in the breakfast room that makes pancakes ...

Rooms from €291. (Powerscourt, 01 274 8888; powerscourthotel.com) HISTORIC Hunter’s Hotel is a time capsule and quite unlike any other hotel in the county, perhaps the country. Quoted as “Ireland’s oldest coaching inn”, Hunter’s wears its patina of age handsomely, combining creaky stairs, antique aromas, a beautiful, mature garden and even some 1930s graffiti. A favourite of oncelocal Daniel Day-Lewis, who recommended it to Steven Spielberg, when he was in town. Rooms from €170 per night. (Newrath Bridge, Newrath, Rathnew, 0404 40106; hunters.ie)

SMART TIPS WAY OUT The county is renowned for its multitude of walking and hiking options, hosting routes that are easy to difficult, short to long, scenic to challenging. Posted forest walks are particularly popular, but none are as famous as the Wicklow Way, a stunning 130 kilometres of trail starting at Marlay Park in Dublin, crossing the Wicklow mountains and continuing to wend its way as far as Co Carlow. Along the way, take in some of Co Wicklow’s most impressive sights, including the breathtaking Lough Tay and Powerscourt Waterfall. visitwicklow.ie WHEELIE GOOD Whether it’s long and winding, or short and dramatic, cycling opportunities abound in the scenic hinterland of the Garden County. Annually, the Wicklow 200 (wicklow200. ie) challenges accomplished participants to a oneday, non-competitive romp through the Wicklow hills, while its shorter sibling, the Wicklow 100, offers a shorter-term test. Mountain bikers love the 16-kilometre trail constructed at Ballinastoe (coillte.ie) to provide riders with a huge variety of terrains, trials and scenery.

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jewellery

fashion

crystal

craft

New Store at 114 Grafton Street Now Open 37–38 Nassau Street, Dublin City Centre · Dublin Airport Terminal 1 · Belfast City Airport Tax Free Shopping for non EU customers

Pacific

PIONEER Seattle dazzles with spectacular scenery, a farm-fresh food and drinks scene and an admirable approach to philanthropy.

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS LAUREN COLTON

DESTINATION | SEATTLE

M

y notebook is bulging with facts as I juggle a pen in one hand and a fluffy, hot cinnamon doughnut in the other, a fragrant cargo of loose leaf tea and truffle salt dangling somewhere around an elbow. Pike Place Market is as full of facts as it is with damn fine food and drinks produce, and it’s a challenge to consume everything at once. Most travel writers worth their pungent sodium prefer to sniff out “hidden gems” and other hackneyed turns of phrase that are banned in the pages of Cara magazine, but to ignore Pike Place would be like omitting Kurt Cobain, Frasier or a certain romcom starring Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks in the same article.

(There. I’ve mentioned all my other Seattle points of reference in one fell swoop. Job done.)

Pike Place Market is so overwhelmingly big and brilliant that I’m relieved to have Patrick Allcorn from Savor Seattle (savorseattletours.com) as my guide.

In fact, do not even consider entering these 3.6 hectares of victuals, libations, florists, arts and crafts without such counsel as it contextualises everything you need to know about Seattle right now. The facts: despite Seattle

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being America’s fastest growing city – its population swelling by 18.7 per cent since 2010, thanks to the omnipresence of homegrown juggernauts Amazon, Microsoft, Boeing and Starbucks – its historic, not-for-profit market has stayed true to its worthy roots. Founded in 1907 as a city-sponsored effort to allow farmers to sell directly to consumers, Pike Place isn’t just a landmark where ten million annual tourists come to take selfies; locals can still afford to shop and trade here too. It’s America’s oldest, continuously operated public farmers’ market and probably one of the fairest: for rent, stallholders pay a set percentage of their weekly takings. It also offers affordable

Previous pages, epic views from Kerry Park. Clockwise from above, Savor Seattle’s expert tour guide, Patrick Allcorn; top, charming floating homes line the edges of Lake Union; fulsome calamari and scallops at McMillin’s on San Juan Island.

FIRE Restaurant and Lounge is the most historical and impressive dining room in Dublin, built in 1864 as the Lord Mayor’s supper room.

FIRE’s menu focuses on utilising fresh in-season, local produce to create award winning dishes, bursting with flavour from its famous Wood-Fired Tiger Prawn to its Hereford Prime Irish fillet steak.

SOLE Seafood & Grill encapsulates the true taste of Ireland in the heart of Dublin, offering the best locally sourced seafood and beef plus International specialities.

A restaurant like no other; the chic interior is complemented by a stylish bar and tasteful food and drinks menu.

Enjoy a warm Irish welcome at SOLE Seafood & Grill where the pleasure of fine wine and great food meets.

PRE-THEATRE

À LA CARTE

SUNDAY ROAST

LUNCH

PRE-THEATRE

À LA CARTE

Two Courses €29.50 Three Courses €33.50 Monday to Friday 5pm - 6pm Saturday from 3 - 5pm Sunday from 1pm - 5.30pm

Monday to Friday 5pm to late Saturday from 3pm Sunday from 1pm

Ireland’s best Sunday lunch 2 Courses €29.50 3 Courses €33.50 Available 1pm – 5.30pm

Two Course E30.00 Three Course E36.00

Two Course E30.00 Three Course E36.00

Monday to Thursday 5pm to Late

Friday and Saturday 12 noon – 5pm

Monday – Saturday 5pm – 6.15pm

Friday and Saturday 12 noon to Late

The Mansion House, Dawson Street, Dublin 2, D02 XK40.

18 – 19 South William Street, Dublin 2, D02 KV76.

T +353 (0) 1 676 7200 E FIRE@mansionhouse.ie

T +353 (0) 1 544 2300 E reservations@sole.ie

W www.firerestaurant.ie

W www.sole.ie

FIRE Opening Hours:

SOLE Opening Hours:

Monday – Friday from 5pm, Saturday from 3pm, Sunday from 1pm.

Monday – Thursday from 5pm, Friday and Saturday from 12pm.

DESTINATION | SEATTLE

This page, top, a bald eagle’seye view of Roche Harbor and, above, Downriggers chef Brian Flach. Opposite, clockwise from main, house boat envy on Lake Union; Lord Byron verse outside Hotel de Haro on San Juan Island; graze-worthy charcuterie at Downriggers; perfect patios at Lakedale Resort; glass sculptures by the Tacoma-born artist Dale Chihuly.

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housing, healthcare, preschool education, food banks and social programmes for seniors. We feast our way through cheesy scones at Honest Biscuit and bean-to-bar chocolate at Indi with our consciences clear – and past flying salmon at Pike Place Fish Co, where vendors throw fresh catch to one another, under the relentless, expectant eye of camera phones.

This liberal, community-minded city may be best devoured from within but it’s best viewed from above – from the Space Needle (spaceneedle.com), Seattle’s famous viewing tower. There may be Jetsons vibes but this summer the Space Needle unveiled a distinctly 21st-century, $100-million renovation that includes a rotating, glass-floor observation deck. Not only are its sea-toMount Rainier views genuinely awe-inspiring, they also illustrate Seattle’s Emerald City nickname – even the more densely populated neighbourhoods are generously punctuated with trees and parkland.

A cheaper vista, ie it’s free compared to the Space Needle’s $29 admission, is from Kerry Park on West Highland Drive, in the wellheeled ’hood of Queen Anne (although you might want to hail a Lyft, as Queen Anne Avenue is steep enough that, on the rare times it snows, people sledge down it). The park may be small but it has great-big panoramas.

Cheesy scones were mentioned earlier but for cheesy puns, the Ride the Ducks of

Seattle tour (ridetheducksofseattle.com) oozes vintage cheddar. Similar to its Viking Splash counterpart in Dublin, an amphibious vehicle manoeuvres from land to Lake Union and our exuberant guide did a sterling job of winning over the more introverted punters, ie nonAmericans. You too will find yourself throwing your hands in the air like you just don’t care to MC Hammer – that is, when you’re not parping into duckbill-shaped whistles. Hang on in there, shipmates, and the dad jokes will make way for interesting facts about the city, including eyebrow-raising rentals for house boats and floating homes.

For the ride of your life though, nothing beats taking a seaplane from Lake Union to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island (kenmoreair. com), or vice versa. I must’ve beamed for the full 40-minute flight while sat in the cockpit in a nifty de Havilland DHC-3 Otter, whose takeoff and landing were both surprisingly gentle.

The San Juan Islands are an archipelago in the Salish Sea, the most populous of which are San Juan Island, Orcas Island and Lopez Island, each served by ferries (clippervacations. com). At San Juan Island, the United States and Canada are separated by the Haro Strait but orcas know no such boundaries and are often the focus of whale-spotting boat trips around Northwest Washington and Southwest British Colombia. Sadly, the already-endangered orca population is fast declining due to a combination of industrial waste in the Puget

DESTINATION | SEATTLE

In bloom – as well as a mind-boggling array of food and drinks outlets, Pike Place Market is bedecked with florists, above, selling great value bouquets. Below left, Danny Segal soaks up the views and below right, Westcott Bay clams with mop-up bread at Downriggers.

Sound affecting ecosystems and ferry traffic interfering with the whales’ echolocation. Thankfully there’s a voluntary no-go zone near the San Juan Islands and niche boat operators keep a respectful distance from pods. The quirky Whale Museum (whalemuseum.org) in Friday Harbor offers a reminder of the long history the region has with its underwater brethren – and what could be lost if further environmental measures aren’t taken.

How ever you arrive at Friday Harbor, the town feels far removed from the urban thrum of Seattle.

It’s chock-full of old world charm, with antique shops, second-hand book stores, galleries of native art and holistic therapy centres.

A 20-minute drive northwest is Roche Harbor, which is quainter still and whose historic Hotel de Haro overlooks a gleaming marina.

We had less than a day to explore the island, racing between the American Camp National Historical Park, Lime Kiln Point State Park and Pelindaba Lavender Farm, which reaches full bloom in mid-July. Do not do this.

I repeat: do not do this. As magnetic as Seattle is, spend as long as you can on this exquisite island, whose land area of 142.59 km² is well worth spending time on (making sure to stay at Lakeview Resort – see “Sleep” on page 72). Here, abundant facts and figures – and more wholesome farm-to-plate produce – are only ever overshadowed by the immense natural beauty of the place: by the bald eagle soaring, the fox sprinting, the doe, alert, and the dorsal fin of an orca that we all long to see beyond the driftwood and across the shimmering bay – far, far away from the cacophony of the Puget Sound.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SEATTLE four times per week.

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SEATTLE ESSENTIALS STAY REFRESHING Aer Lingus flights from Dublin arrive at 5.35pm, so rest off the seven-hour time difference at Cedarbrook Lodge, a mere ten-minute drive from Sea-Tac airport. As well as the surprising lack of jet noise, this low-rise haven is enveloped by green grounds. Rooms are more functional than florid but eminently comfortable. There’s impressive farm-totable produce in the Northern Exposure-like Copperleaf Restaurant – including a substantial wine list of regional varieties – and sunny service throughout. Rooms from $219.

(18525 36th Ave S, +1 206 901 9268; cedarbrooklodge.com) DOWNHOME Welcomes don’t get much warmer than at Greenlake Guesthouse, in the – you’ve guessed it – Green Lake neighbourhood. Owners Blayne and Julie McAferty truly are hosts with the most, their 1920s Craftsman-style home comprising five beautifully turned out guest rooms with the biggest and comfiest beds. Hearty cooked breakfasts are accompanied by the chatter of guests sharing stories across their tables, making for a convivial bolthole. Rooms from $219. (7630 East Green Lake Dr N, +1 206 729 8700; greenlakeguesthouse.com) BUCOLIC There are shades of Twin Peaks at Lakedale Resort, with its pine and cladded lobby. But there’s nothing to be spooked by at this knockout lodge on San Juan Island. It’s as harmless as cherry pie, with homely guest

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rooms – complete with gas fires and jetted bathtubs – overlooking the lake on which rowing boats and kayaks tantalisingly await. In addition to the main house are superior glamping options: yurts, log and canvas cottages, and an AirStream caravan. Or, bring your own tent.

Rooms from $290. (4313 Roche Harbor Rd, Friday Harbor, +1 360 378 2350; lakedale.com)

EAT GRAZE The jewel in the Emerald City’s gastronomic crown, Pike Place Market covers 3.6 hectares with some of the best produce you’ll ever try and/or takeaway. From giant beef tomatoes in family greengrocers to brewpub saison, there are also eat-in options, such as the romantic French bistro Maximilien, from where you can watch the ferries cross Elliott Bay, and Turkish flatbread diner Miss Café. (Pike Street; pikeplacemarket.org) TERROIR Washington State has some 900 wineries so cut the wheat from the chaff at Purple Café and Wine Bar, which is particularly expert in regional vino. Wine flights, food-pairing recommendations and versed staff make ordering a doddle – although my focus quickly moved from my honeyed pinot grigio to the Impossible Burger, the game-changing, plant-based “bleeding” patty that’s all the talk of the meat industry and vegan community.

It really is top drawer. Amazing taste and texture, not stringy, with a lovely crisp exterior that are hard to come by in veggie burgers.

(1225 4th Ave, +1 206 829 2280; purplecafe.com)

STANDOUT This writer’s favourite meal on this trip was at McMillin’s Dining Room on San Juan Island (and not just because a Dubliner, Eamon, was front of house). Fresh oysters yoinked from the Salish Sea, Dungeness crab and huge prawns, served with scampi butter, red and white quinoa, black rice and veg, washed down with a local lavender lemon drop martini, made my heart sing. And then the flaglowering ceremony at sunset on the marina …

(248 Reuben Memorial Dr, Friday Harbor, +1 360 378 5757; rocheharbor.com)

SMART TIPS Enjoy trippy glassware? Visit the Chihuly Conservatory and Garden, an exhibit at the Seattle Center that showcases the living artist’s colourful, monumental, molten sculptures. chihulygardenandglass.com Washington State is America’s biggest wine producer after California. It is also responsible for nearly three quarters of the nation’s hop production and has 260 breweries. Apples and cherries are also big cheeses, with apple gin, cider and brandy fast emerging. For more info on the Pacific Northwest, including its viticulture and sample itineraries, visit seattlewashingtonstate.co.uk.

Make substantial savings – and jump queues – with a Seattle CityPASS, which includes entry to the Space Needle, Chihuly Garden, Pacific Science Center, Aquarium, MoPOP, Argosy Cruises and Woodland Park Zoo. citypass.com

MAGNIFICENT MALAHIDE CASTLE IS A STONE’S THROW AWAY

Malahide Castle is a magnificent medieval castle just 10 minutes from Dublin Airport.

The castle is set on 250 acres of parkland with a story dating back to the 12th Century.

Enjoy daily tours of the castle, visit the ornamental walled gardens and dine or shop at the Avoca Café and Retail store. We look forward to your visit.

For reservations please contact +353 1 8169538 or book online at www.malahidecastleandgardens.ie

HISTORY SO CLOSE IT COMES ALIVE Explore the 1916 Easter Rising & Modern Irish History in a Spectacular Setting General Post Office, O’Connell St. Lower, Dublin 1 Tel: + 353 (0) 1 872 1916 www.gpowitnesshistory.ie

European Museum Academy Award Winner 2017

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Check out mini.ie to book your 48-hour test drive

Happy Glamper Photographer Cormac Ryan Meenan test-drives the festival fabulous new plug-in hybrid MINI. Ireland is spoiled for choice for when it comes to dramatic scenery, which can make choosing a camping spot pretty overwhelming. Fortunately, there was nothing complicated about navigating the brand new MINI Cooper S E Countryman, whose rooftop Autohome was to be my digs for a long weekend.

Genius in its simplicity, the Countryman feels extremely capable and well considered. Its electric motor works in harmony with a conventional engine to help propel you forward with more power and gumption than you’ll ever

need on an Irish road, making for a smooth and powerful ride. Pulling out of the driveway, the electric motor did its thing, silently and effortlessly starting the journey before the petrol engine kicked in almost unnoticeably.

Arriving at your destination is equally as simple. Once you’ve chosen your camping spot, putting up the Autohome is a doddle. Unfasten three clips, give the frame one gentle push and your new gaff pops up like a luxurious pop-up tent. Inside is a ladder that allows easy access in and out, while the floor is soft and

mattress-like - instant comfort after a long drive (or a particularly lively festival). Just add a sleeping bag – or even a mattress, which would also fit – and you’ve a five-star stay wherever you lay your wheels. It is just as easy to take down.

The Autohome takes the idea of camping, glamping and motorhomes to another level and makes it ten times better. In fact, this test-drive made my 48 hours of driving, adventuring and camping among the best I’ve ever experienced.

Cormac Ryan Meenan (CormacGP) is a 26-year-old freelance photographer specialising in the MotoGP World Championship and commercial work. He spends each year travelling around the world, clocking up more than 308,000km, 406 hours and over 70 flights.

You can find and follow Cormac on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook at @CormacGP.

You say, we say ...

10 PRIME PICNIC PLACES Join Thomas Breathnach to celebrate summer by laying out a blanket and sharing your al fresco delights under the sun.

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MARIN HEADLANDS SAN FRANCISCO It wouldn’t be a Bay Area visit without lacing up for some NorCal parks and recs vibes. Best explored on a fog-free evening, the benches overlooking Bonita Cove are the perfect rest-stop, where views boomerang the Golden Gate Bridge and a Pacific sunset. For victuals, load your backpack at Venice Boutique Market, a picnic specialist along Sausalito’s scenic waterfront. venicegourmet.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.

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RIVER SEINE PARIS

Ever since the French coined the term in the 1700s, Paris has been providing le pique-nique masterclass. Nowhere more so than along the banks of the Seine. Here, a mélange of tourists, buskers and date-night Parisians gather for its electric ambience – hit the Rive Droite for epic Eiffel Tower views. To bump the épicerie queues, Zia Café prepares to-go gourmet picnics with everything from charcuterie to champagne. ziaparis.com

Aer Lingus flies from four times daily from Dublin to Paris and once daily from Cork.

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GRUYÈRES SWITZERLAND Few locations raise a picnic game like the Swiss Alps. And Gruyères (the town), home of Gruyère (the cheese) transcends you to Helvetic heaven. The town’s Sentier des Fromageries (cheese dairy trail) lifts hikers into a minty-fresh backdrop of Alpine meadows and Toblerone peaks, all dotted with screensaver picnic ops. For your prêt-à-manger staples, visit the town’s bustling folk marché. la-gruyere.ch

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Geneva daily.

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THE COTSWOLDS ENGLAND Nowhere says the great British picnic like the Cotswolds, a vast patchwork of dreamy English bocage, simply calling out for plaid. The Cotswold Way, a 160-kilometre countryside wander, turnstiled by idyllic honey-hued villages, is the region’s signature trail. For basket-fillers, stop at Broadway’s village deli for its no-lessthan scrumptious vegan offerings, before venturing into the English countryside to claim the perfect grassy knoll. broadwaydeli.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies up to four times daily from Dublin to Bristol.

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GOVERNORS ISLAND NEW YORK A world away, yet just 732 metres from Manhattan, Governors Island delivers what every New Yorker demands from a picnic: awesome food and even better views. The compact island, known for its green appeal, is car-free too, but a convoy of food trucks luckily get a pass. Check out Fauzia’s Heavenly Delights for delicious Caribbean fare before pulling up a resident Adirondack deckchair. fauziasheavenlydelights.blogspot.com

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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily, and from Shannon six times per week.

VILLA BORGHESE ROME

For an idyllic dalliance with la dolce vita, Rome’s largest green space offers botanical sanctuary amid the city’s eternal bustle. Whether you settle in the shade of the park’s blooming magnolias, or rent a boat across the romantic laghetto, one thing is certain: gelato. Bypass the tourist traps to discover yours at Gelato D’Autore, tucked just 200 metres outside the park. gelateriasalaria.it

Aer Lingus flies twice daily from Dublin to Rome.

With a secret shoreline paired with a food scene that puts the epic in epicurean, East Cork is Ireland’s hidden picnic paradise.

Ballycotton Cliff Walk, which kisses the region’s Celtic Sea coastline for several kilometres, dips and dives with panoramic spots to lay your blanket. Try the horseshoe beach at Ballytrasna or the rocky outcrop known as “The Hump”. Before you wander, parcel up some fish ‘n’ chips from the village’s highly blásta (delicious) chipper, Skinny’s.

TRISTAN HUTCHINSON

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BALLYCOTTON EAST CORK

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BLACK FOREST GERMANY

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In German, waldeinsamkeit is a magically lost-intranslation word for the poetic solitude felt in a forest. The Black Forest takes that to an über level.

Inspiration for the Grimm Brothers’ fairytales, its evergreen expanses are tangled with Hansel and Gretel picnic trails, like those surrounding Triberg im Schwarzwald. For your centre piece, the village’s Café Schäefer lays claim to the original Black Forest gateau recipe. cafeschaefer-triberg.de

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Stuttgart five times per week.

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CAPE COD MASSACHUSETTS Brunch on the beach? With the East Coast’s best sunrises, there’s a real calendar quality to parking your cooler on Cape Cod. Race Point, on the Cape’s northern tip, woos with vast sandy shores, fewer crowds and a gorgeous lighthouse.

Stock up at Provincetown’s trendy Canteen, where summering Bostonians come for the lobster rolls and stay for the “frosé” (yes, frozen rosé). thecanteenptown.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston twice daily, and from Shannon daily.

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PHOENIX PARK DUBLIN Europe’s largest walled park is the ideal spot for bon vivant Dubliners to sit back, clink Mason jars and people-watch. However, admiring the herd of 500 fallow deer that grazes the Phoenix Park’s meadowlands is the real USP here.

En route, stop at one of Stoneybatter’s cute delis; Lilliput Stores, tucked on Rosemount Terrace, is a popular go-to for small-batch coffee, charcuterie and tear-and-share artisan bread. lilliputstores.com

John Farrington Antiques 32 Drury Street, Dublin 2.

Fine Diamonds and Gemstones

5.55 carat D colour pear shape diamond ring Tel: +353-1-6791899 Web: www.johnfarringtonantiques.com Antiques Fair Exhibition dates 28th, 29th and 30th September at the RDS, Dublin 4

ALONG

THE SOUND

Lizzie Gore-Grimes swaps the more obvious New England summer resorts of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard for a family-friendly adventure along the quiet stretch of Connecticut coast that traces Long Island Sound.

WORDS LIZZIE GORE-GRIMES PHOTOGRAPHS KYLE TUNNEY

DESTINATION | CONNECTICUT

F Opening page, fresh lobsters from Abbotts Lobster; kayaking around the Thimble Islands. Clockwise from top, a packed deck at the Stony Creek Brewery; one of the many creative flags displayed in a garden while roadtripping through CT; a freshly-poured beer flight at Stony Creek Brewery.

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rom the minute we touch down the kids are swept up in the excitement of simply being in the USA, with its profusion of Stars and Stripes flags (everywhere), fluoro blue Jolly Rancher sweets (handed out by the car rental crew) and super-sized everything. Our “family van” rental car is so big it has an aisle running down between the rear rows of seats. They’re in heaven. Not least because we haven’t picked this particular stretch of coast by accident; they have four cousins in nearby Branford that they cannot wait to see.

Flying directly into Bradley International Airport in Hartford, has eased the journey tenfold as we’ve avoided all the hassle and traffic-congestion-heartache of flying into JFK with three small children in tow.

From Bradley you can head south and hit Long Island Sound in under an hour’s drive – the perfect gateway to explore this 240-kilometre stretch of picture-perfect New England coastline.

So, after a fantastic family-reunion weekend of pool-splashing, tale-telling and beach barbecues with the State-side cousins we set off armed with a local knowledge hit-list of places to go. To explore the full stretch of coast we start in Greenwich, just over the state line from New York, and easily one of the chichi-est towns in Connecticut. This is hedgefund heaven where the average salary is six-figures and the cost of the yachts that line the marina goes well

LUNCH & DINNER

ROOFTOP TERRACE DINING WITH RIVER VIEWS Breakfast * Lunch * Dinner “A vast eating house spread over a former knitting emporium where James Joyce once worked (who knew?)

Surrounded by thick-crusted loaves of bread and pillowy-looking cinnamon-apple buns, I ate a messily delicious braised pork shoulder sandwich laced with red cabbage and beetroot slaw, along with a generously portioned butterbean and pumpkin salad.”

“For eating and drinking in Dublin, make sure to check out The Winding Stair, a longtime favorite of Dubliners and travelers. Its cozy dining room is, fittingly, up a winding staircase, and the windows overlook the River Liffey, my favorite among the restaurants I visited.”

Frugal Traveler - The New York Times

Frank Bruni - The New York Times

42 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 (Northside of the Ha'penny bridge) +353 1 828 0835 * thewoollenmills.com

40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 +353 1 872 7320 * winding-stair.com

....by The Winding Stair....

breakfast * lunch * dinner “The Legal Eagle is quirky and generous, a gastropub that takes the blandness out of the concept of great food in great pubs and refits it for a jaded world.’’

Catherine Cleary - The Irish Times

***** “There is something joyous about the food in The Legal Eagle and I defy anybody not to love its quirky mix of the traditional and the modern from panko crumbed salsify to lunchtime roast in a roll.’’

Leslie Williams - Irish Examiner

WINNER of the Best Gastro Pub in Dublin 2018 Irish Restaurant Awards

WINNER of the Best Gastro Pub in Ireland 2018 Irish Restaurant Awards

1/2 Chancery Place, Dublin 7 * T: +353 1 555 2971 * thelegaleagle.ie

DESTINATION | CONNECTICUT

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up into seven. The main street, Greenwich Avenue, offers peerless shopping if you can stretch to it, with Tiffanys, Hermès and Saks Fifth Avenue in there among countless other designer stores. This is New England for New Yorkers with the requisite restaurants to match.

With not a single embossed shopping bag to show for ourselves, we head east to Southport – a sleepy harbourside village dotted with Victorian and Federal mansions and quaint little antique shops. It’s a quiet spot but worth making a detour for, to stay in the familyowned Delamar Hotel where they manage to meld oldworld, colonial charm with cosseting layers of modern luxury – see “Stay”, page 86.

The next morning we’re up early to make our way to Stony Creek, a journey we could make in just 40 minutes if we zoomed along on the I-95 highway, in a cocoon of air-conditioned comfort, but where’s the fun in that? The magic here is to be found in taking the winding coastal Route 1, where you can roll down the windows and soak up the sights, sounds and smells.

Now you’ll notice the landscape and mood shift down a gear. As the formality and grandeur of Greenwich, Southport and its Gold Coast cousins begins to fade, you’ll see mansions give way to clam shacks and sailboats and kayaks start to outnumber yachts.

Just off Stony Creek, you’ll find the Thimble Islands – an archipelago of 23 small islands in Long Island Sound. To explore them you can hop on one of the many small cruise boats that putter about offering one-hour tours. Named after the local Thimbleberry bush, the islands vary vastly in size and development. Money Island, the biggest, is home to 30 or more summer homes, while Nob Island, the smallest, is home to just one seriously cool, covered gazebo where we can see friends gathering for the day to barbecue, swim and banter in the sun. Bliss.

Before we finish with Stony Creek we make sure to stop in at the Stony Creek Brewery (stonycreekbrewery. com), where families, college kids and all sorts mix and mingle on the generous deck overlooking the water. After an appetite-whetting craft brew, we’re delighted to spot

Opposite – clockwise from far left, prawn cocktail at Red 36; boat being repainted; one of many picturesque driveways; lemonade from Red 36; charming streets of Madison; more flags adorning the quaint homes in CT. Clockwise from above left, Marty from Abbotts Lobster; a view from the deck of Red 36; roadside flags.

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From top, a boat returning to land from one of the Thimble Islands; Brandy Thomas and Ray Matarazzo from Stony Creek Brewery.

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the red awning of Branford’s awardwinning Lobster Shack (lobstershackct. com) beckoning across the water. The kids opt for hot dogs but we eagerly (and messily) tuck into one of their soft rolls filled to overflowing with buttered lobster meat and declare it a highlight of the trip.

It’s dusk by the time we make it to nearby Madison, just in time to check in to our Tidewater Inn B&B – see “Stay”, page 86 – without waking the whole house. The next morning, it’s muggy and overcast but Madison still paints a very pretty picture, with Main Street’s inviting jumble of mom-and-pop stores festooned with American flags. We lose a happy hour browsing, buying and stopping for coffee in the legendary RJ Julia bookstore (rjjulia.com), before treating the kids to a lemon pie ice cream in Ashley’s (ashleysicecream.net).

The clouds have lifted and the sky is piercingly blue once again as we

drive from Madison to Mystic, our last stop before we catch the ferry across to Block Island. It’s a glorious drive, cruising past the wonderfully ramshackle mix of bait-and-tackle shops, fine 17th-century homes and roadside farm stalls selling corn and tomatoes that seem so quintessentially Connecticut. As we rumble over the steel bridges that cross the various tidal inlets, I can spot nesting osprey in the water and smell the salt in the air, and am convinced this is about as perfect a piece of small town America as you’re likely to find.

Tier members can earn up to 75% extra Avios points on flights. See aerlingus.com/aerclub for details.

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CONNECTICUT ESSENTIALS STAY

EAT

SWISH The Delamar Southport is an intimate family-owned hotel with all the style of a contemporary boutique getaway and the added polish of proper New England hospitality. Even if you don’t overnight here, be sure to book a table (out on the terrace) in the hotel’s Artisan restaurant where you’ll eat exceptionally fine ocean-to-table food, under a canopy of twinkling lights. Doubles from $329. (275 Old Post Road, Southport, +1 203 259 2800; delamar.com)

HISTORIC The Griswold Inn is wonderfully higgledy piggledy thanks to its 200-year-old heritage. Nab a table in the mahogany-dark tap room and soak up the uber-traditional New England vibes surrounded by pot-bellied stoves, low ceilings and an esoteric collection of 15th-century firearms. Known for great live music, jumbo shrimp cocktail and baby back ribs, The Gris is well worth making a detour for. (36 Main Street, Essex, +1 860 767 1776; griswoldinn.com)

FAMILY The sprawling Water’s Edge Resort & Spa is a perfect spot for families. Set on lush, prettily planted grounds along the Long Island Sound shoreline, the resort offers indoor and outdoor pools, private beach, health spa and a restaurant for every mood, from the casual oceanside grill to more formal Italian dining at Dattilo. Doubles from $228.

(1525 Boston Post Road, Westbrook, +1 860 399 5901; watersedgeresortandspa.com)

CASUAL Located just outside Mystic, Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough is not easy to find but it’s well worth searching out. This casual, summer-only eatery, perched right on the water of the Mystic River, has been serving some of the area’s best lobster, clams, oysters on the half shell, shrimp and crab since 1947. Bring your own beer and best leave your good white shirt at home as the warm butter from their legendary lobster rolls has a way of dribbling down your chin no matter what you do. (117 Pearl Street, Noank, +1 860 536 7719; abbottslobster.com)

HOMELY Victoria Kolyvas’s gloriously quaint Tidewater Inn B&B offers eight rooms, each decorated with hand-stitched quilts, antiques and canopy bed. There’s a homely Little House on the Prairie feel to the place, and breakfast, served as a three-course feast, is anything but ordinary. We could barely move after ours and all tastefully prepared

by Victoria herself. Doubles from $150. (949 Boston Post Road, Madison, +1 203 245 8457; thetidewater.com)

BUZZY Red 36 is on the marina in Mystic and juts right out over the water. Dining on the deck, amid the clinking masts of the affluent area’s boats, you feel like you’re on a yacht. In high summer the place has the buzz of a neverending party with people sipping spiked cans of Fisher Island Lemonade and boozy Bloody Marys. The kids loved their baby burgers and

proper homemade fish and chips.

(2 Washington Street, Mystic, +1 860 536 3604; red36ct.com)

DON’T MISS BACK IN TIME Okay so it’s not the Mississippi but taking a steam train and riverboat ride through the Lower Connecticut River Valley does have a distinct Huck Finn feel to it.

Departing Essex Station (c. 1892) on a whistling steam locomotive puts you right in the mood even before you arrive at Deep River Landing to board the Becky Thatcher steamboat for an hour’s putter along the wide expanse of water, taking in the wildlife, lush scenery and restful river life. essexsteamtrain.com PLAYTIME Ocean Beach Park with its Coney Island-meets-Boardwalk Empire vibe is a mustvisit. Leave a full day to stroll the kilometre stretch of sugar-sand beach, people-watch on the busy boardwalk, eat hot dogs and then burn them off going up and down the water slides – for hours. (98 Neptune Avenue, New London, +1 860 447 3031; ocean-beachpark.com)

SMART TIPS COASTAL TOUR Connecticut’s underthe-radar local railway, the Shoreline East service passes through the area’s picturesque marshlands, dense forests, and stops in all the key historic waterfront villages offering a great, car-free alternative way to tour the coast. shorelineeast.com ISLAND BLISS From New London catch the high-speed, passenger-only ferry to Block Island and soak up the laid-back insouciance of this super family-friendly island. A more low-key, dusty-flip-flops experience to nearby Nantucket’s starched chinos and high prices.

Here it’s all about renting bikes and kayaks and spending easy days exploring the 45 kilometres of nature trail, saltwater pools, coves and beaches. blockislandinfo.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to HARTFORD daily.

CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND DOLLAR FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

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PEAKS and SCOFFS

Once nicknamed “the Athens of the North”, Edinburgh is as handsome as ever. It is also rich with art galleries and museums, hip bars and restaurants – and picturesque surprises at every turn.

PHOTOGRAPHS AISLING McCOY

DESTINATION | EDINBURGH

1 Previous spread, the view back towards Edinburgh from Arthur’s Seat, the highest point in Holyrood Park, just east of the Old Town.

2

3

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1 Ioannis at The Refinery on St Andrew Square.

2 A pit-stop snack at Baba Budan at the Arches on East Market Street for coffee and doughnuts.

3 The NeoGothic central hall of the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, which was the world’s first purpose-built portrait gallery.

4 Stained glass windows in the stairwell of The Balmoral Hotel.

5 The view towards Edinburgh Castle from Princes Street Gardens.

6 Lee and Mae at Arthur’s Seat.

7 Brasserie Prince at The Balmoral Hotel.

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7 5

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The Scottish Parliament Building by Enric Miralles.

8

9

10

8 Afternoon tea at the Palm Court at The Balmoral.

9 Dinnertime at The Outsider restaurant.

10 Irish fine art photographer Liadh Kelleher at Stills Gallery, for its Fresh Focus exhibition.

11 Lorenzo Bartolino’s Campbell Sisters dancing a waltz at the Scottish National Gallery.

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SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to EDINBURGH up to six times daily, from Cork nine flights per week, and from Shannon six times per week.

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DESTINATION | EDINBURGH

12

13

14 14 12 The cocktail bar at the Edinburgh Grand Hotel. 13 The monument to philosopher Dugald Stewart on Calton Hill, overlooking Princes Street Park and the Old Town. 14 Bird watching at the Edinburgh Grand. 15 Zane McMillen interacts with one of the exhibits at the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions centre.

STAY

EAT

REGAL Step back in time at The Balmoral but without compromising on 21st-century sensibilities. This historic landmark building is fit for a monarch and has plentiful views of the castle. Guest rooms have been individually designed by hotelier extraordinaire Olga Polizzi, with characterful textiles (patterned wallpaper and tartan upholstery) married with ergonomics. The hotel also has a starry food USP: there’s Brasserie Prince by Alain Roux and the Michelin-starred Number One helmed by chefs Jeff Bland, Brian Grigor and Richard Dalgleish. Rooms from £415. (1 Princes Street, +44 131 556 2414; roccofortehotels.com)

DAYTIME Baba Budan is named after the 17thcentury Sufi who introduced coffee to the world.

Little did he know that the black stuff would apparently stifle the mortgage ambitions of later millennials … but he’d surely be impressed by this hip and community-minded coffee shop, whose blends change every four to six weeks so that a) their regulars never get bored and b) to showcase the world’s best beans. (Arch 12, 17 East Market Street, +44 775 374 2550; bababudan.co.uk)

CONVIVIAL Pretend you’re old money at The Edinburgh Grand, which belonged to the Royal Bank of Scotland from 1825 until 2006. It’s now home to beautifully turned out serviced apartments, the larger ones of which are perfect for families or friends. Its ground floor Hawksmoor restaurant opened only last month, while The Register Club has handsome historic detailing and Art Deco styling befitting of a lady or gent. Apartments from £287. (St Andrew Square, +44 131 225 5499; lateralcity.com)

15

PHOENIX A gorgeous Georgian house once owned by the writer John Wilson – nom de plume Christopher North – the Nira Caledonia recently reopened after a fire devastated the property. Nine months and one £1.4m refurbishment later, this 28-bedroom hotel is open for business. Natural light through tall windows spills on to strokeable bed throws, with “Petit” rooms ideal for solo, shortbreak travellers (or very cosy couples). Also, Blackwood’s Restaurant and Bar is well worth patronising. Rooms from £159. (6-10 Gloucester Place, +44 131 225 2720; niracaledonia.com)

INSIDE SCOOP Caramelised pork belly … smoked paprika and chilli crab and crayfish linguine … black garlic and maple tempeh. Drooling yet? You may need a bib at The Outsider, which has an excellent, daily-specials-championing menu, plus “side things”, such as fries and olives, while cheese is simply “fabulous”. Great value, hip decor and a top location too. (George IV Bridge, +44 131 226 3131; theoutsiderrestaurant.com) ALL-ROUNDER The Refinery opens early for breakfast (from toasted crumpets to buttermilk chicken and waffle) and later segues into a bar serving food until 10pm: think sharing titbits, flatbreads, burgers, afternoon tea and fullyfledged mains. Contemporary decor and a mixture of high-tables and sofas are ripe for all occasions. (5 St Andrew Square, +44 333 210 0017; drakeandmorgan.co.uk)

SMART TIP Edinburgh airport is well served by public transport, with regular trains, trams and an Airlink bus service. A 20-minute cab ride will take you into the city centre for about £20, while the bus costs £4.50 (single) or £7.50 (return), with concessions for children. Trains and trams are £6 (single) and £8.50 (return). edinburghairport.com

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Glovers Alley is led by chef Andy Mc Fadden and his talented team of assistants, sommeliers, wait staff and hosts.

Located in the Fitzwilliam Hotel we serve elegant food with friendly service in a luxurious dining space located off Dublin’s magnificent St Stephen’s Green.

LUNCH

PRE THEATRE

à la carte

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glandorebelfast.co.uk | info@glandorebelfast.co.uk @GlandoreNetwork | +44 028 9044 7100

FIVE BEST

FARM BREAKS Cockerels for alarm clocks and freshly plucked pears … Eithne Shortall considers living the good life on an agritourism holiday.

IRELAND WICKLOW WANDERINGS

As well as the humans staying at Abhainn Ri’s guesthouse, this 40-hectare working farm is home to donkeys, goats, sheep, hens and a pony. Guests are encouraged to roam the grounds. There’s a childfriendly area where younger would-be farmers can feed hens, and the donkeys are always delighted to receive a few carrots. There’s also the option to take a tour with Farmer Joe and follow it up with some homebaked treats. B&B and self-catering available. abhainn-ri.com

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SMART EDIT | FARM BREAKS

USA COWBOY STYLE

Bar SZ Ranch is a verifiable Californian ranch located a couple of hours’ drive south of San Francisco. You can take a hayride, learn to rope or take up line dancing, and end your days roasting s’mores and relaxing under a comforter of stars. Children and adults are welcome and you can camp, glamp or rent a house. Bar SZ Ranch is operated by a live-in family of five.

Expect checked shirts and Stetson hats. barszranch.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.

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handcrafted jewellery collection in sterling silver & 14k gold each piece is engraved with 12 symbols that represent some of the most historical eras in irish history.

Available at all leading Jewellery & Gift Stores.

For more information visit: www.historyoďŹ reland.ie CRAFTED BY

SMART EDIT | FARM BREAKS

ITALY OLIVE COUNTRY

A guesthouse with a difference, Villa di Campolungo is located on a family-run olive farm in the Tuscany region of Italy. Less than a two-hour drive from Pisa, the 600-year-old farmhouse offers views of rolling green hills. The olives grown on site are used to make olive oil and olive soap. Homemade cakes are served at breakfast, and dinner – made with their own vegetables – is served on the terrace. villadicampolungo.it

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Pisa three times per week.

FRANCE GET FRUITY

There’s plenty of fruit to be picked in France depending on the time of year. It’s not a relaxing break but it is a great way to immerse yourself in rural French culture – and earn a few bob. From August to late October, Les Vergers de la Valloire are looking for people to help take in the year’s haul of apples and pears. A 50-minute drive from Lyon, rooms cost €25 a week and you’ll earn about €10 an hour. vergersvalloire.fr

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lyon up to ten times per week.

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MONAGHAN’S

CASHMERE STORE Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide

Tom & Suzanne Monaghan

A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom and Suzanne Monaghan in their store at 21 South Anne Street. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere selling a wide range of classic sweaters in the latest styles and colours for both men and women.

Deco Asscher €205

As they celebrate 58 years Tom and Suzanne would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents (terms and conditions apply)

M Monaghans Cashmere, 21 South Anne Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

www.monaghanscashmere.ie

SMART EDIT | FARM BREAKS

UK CORNISH PETTING

Trevorrick Farm is a small Cornish homestead near Padstow. Priding itself on an “idyllic” setting, harried holidaymakers are encouraged to rent a cottage, spend a few days soaking up the fresh air and return home refreshed. Ponies, pigs, hens and lambs populate the farm and petting is generally encouraged.

There’s a heated swimming pool, a play area and some of the cottages even come with hot tubs. trevorrick.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newquay daily, and from Cork twice per week.

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DUNNE & CRESCENZI

Italian restaurant & wine bar | Importers of fine Italian wines DUNNE & CRESCENZI The Flagship Restaurant 14-16 South Frederick Street.

Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 675 9892 also at: 11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4 Tel: +353 (1) 667 3252 Blackrock Shopping Centre Tel: +353 (1) 525 2012

L’OFFICINA Dundrum Town Centre Tel: +353 (1) 216 6764 Kildare Retail Village Tel: +353 045 535850

www.dunneandcrescenzi.com

Proud to be part of the McKenna Top 100 Restaurant Guide

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DESTINATION | DUBROVNIK

48 HOURS IN DUBROVNIK

Yvonne Gordon falls for Medieval city walls and dreamy Adriatic views.

Don't miss . .

Drink at . .

FORTRESS The City Walls of Dubrovnik date back to Medieval times and on the two-kilometre stroll around them, you’ll see the old city gates, forts and towers, and enjoy views over the blue Adriatic Sea, the city’s tiny streets and the red rooftops. A few minutes away, climb the steps of Fort Lovrijenac for another perspective over the city walls.

PANORAMIC VIEWS Take the Dubrovnik Cable Car to the top of Mount Srd–, where there’s a restaurant and panoramic terrace.

For the best views down over the Old Town, walk a little away from the viewing terraces to the mountain top, from where you can watch the sun set over the Elaphiti Islands. There’s also a fort and a small museum about the Croatian War of Independence.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to DUBROVNIK daily.

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COCKTAILS There are lots of little bars hidden in the backstreets but for some of the best cocktails, head to The Bar by Azur where they’ll mix you up a “spicy” with tequila, coriander, lime, pineapple, rhubarb juice, agave and ginger or a “woody” with whiskey, tawny port, Prošek and chocolate bitters.

(Kunićeva 5, +385 20 454 477; azurvision.com) Top, Dubrovnik's Medieval city walls make for a scenic stroll.

Above, reaching new heights at the top of Mount Srd–.

Left, refreshing cocktails up for grabs at Poco Loco.

NATURE To escape the buzz of the city, take the 15-minute ferry ride over to Lokrum Island, where you can enjoy walks in the gardens (and perhaps spot a few of the resident peacocks), explore old Benedictine Monastery ruins, have a picnic, sunbathe on the rocks or swim in the freshwater lake. There’s also a small Game of Thrones museum.

SUNSET It’s all about the views when you go for a sundowner cocktail in Dubrovnik and it’s hard to beat Abakus on the terrace of Hotel Excelsior, where you can sip cocktails, chat and listen to live piano music over dreamy vistas of the blue sea and the ancient city.

(Frana Supila 12, +385 20 353 000; adriaticluxuryhotels.com) TAPAS Drop in to Poco Loco Dubrovnik Fusion & Cocktail Bar any time of day or evening for tasty tapas, burgers, craft beers and refreshing cocktails, while watching the world go by from a shaded outdoor table right in the heart of the Old Town at Gundulić Square.

(Bunićeva Poljana 5, +385 95 191 1985)

Sleep at . .

LUXURY Completely refurbished last year, the landmark Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik has been a favourite of celebrities and royals since it opened in 1913. Boasting some of the best views of Dubrovnik Old Town and the Adriatic, there are quiet gardens and a private seaside stone terrace and swimming spot. Rooms from €137. (Frana Supila 12, +385 20 353 000; adriaticluxuryhotels.com)

STYLISH Set on a cliffside just along the coast, Villa Dubrovnik has views of Lokrum Island and lush gardens and there are vaporetto speedboat transfers to the city. Inside, rooms come with a private terrace and sea views, and there’s a stylish rooftop wine bar, plus a lounge, restaurant and spa. Rooms from €324. (Vlaha Bukovca 6, +385 20 500 300; villa-dubrovnik.hr)

BOUTIQUE Just ten minutes’ walk from the city centre and set at the top of a cliff, Hotel Bellevue lives up to its name with its superb views. All rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the sea and there’s a large terrace plus a private beach for guests. Rooms from €108. (Pera Čingrije 7, +385 20 330 000; adriaticluxuryhotels.com)

Clockwise from top right, stylish interiors and bright rooms at Hotel Excelsior; gorgeous views from the terrace at Hotel Bellevue; Oriental delights at Azur in the Old Town; Dalmation and Italian inspired bites at Pantarul restaurant.

Eat at . .

MODERN Fresh seafood from the Adriatic such as sea bream or turbot, rich meat dishes and homemade bread and pasta are on the menu at Pantarul, which serves up Dalmatian and Italianinspired cuisine in a buzzy setting – there’s a five-course tasting menu and the restaurant has a cookbook if you want to recreate some of its dishes at home. (Kralja Tomislava 1, +385 20 333 486; pantarul.com) QUAYSIDE For a break from the madding crowds, take a lunchtime trip out to Restaurant Orsan for a relaxing waterside setting with daily fresh fish specials – tuck into octopus salad, oysters from Ston or sea bass carpaccio, along with a selection of local olive oils, cheeses, meats and organic vegetables.

(Ulica Ivana Zajca 4, +385 20 436 822; restaurant-orsan-dubrovnik.com) ASIAN FUSION You’ll find a selection of local Croatian produce cooked Oriental style with lots of spice at Azur, hidden in a back lane in the Old Town. There’s indoor and outdoor seating and sample dishes include CroAsian-style seafood laksa, spicy tuna donburi and meatballs with curry coconut sauce. (Pobijana 10, +385 20 324 806; azurvision.com)

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Building in Ireland for 60 years; it’s in our DNA

ON BUSINESS

Making travel work for you

LON DON

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LONDON EYE Daniel Ford heads south of the Thames and explores the business perks of a rapidly changing SE15.

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A DAY IN THE LIFE Chef and proprieter Neven Maguire gives an insight into his hectic life, from cooking to filming in Ireland and abroad.

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ELIZABETH UNIQUE, ETC A beautiful stay in the heart of Italy’s capital city along with other new hotels in Philadelphia, Athens and Chicago.

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SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Author Marian Broderick shares valuable tips gleaned from historical figures, and her favourite spots in Málaga.

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Business

“

I

t’s true bruv,” Rodney would tell Del Boy if the iconic London sitcom Only Fools and Horses were to make a modern-day return.

“Peckham is the place to be. You can now order a cocktail without getting funny looks. You could even drink it at a roadside pavement café that has one of those French names you are so keen on.”

Peckham is indeed on the cusp of cool; as is the whole area from SE15, New Cross, Deptford and to Greenwich (although granted, the latter is somewhat ahead of the cool curve having started its renaissance a few years earlier).

The area is what Shoreditch was 15 years ago.

But it really should be no surprise that it is on the up. The former dockside and workingclass area had a lot of industrial land that could be reclaimed for more modern urban uses such as flats, shops and restaurants, while transport links mean the area is only a short hop from Canary Wharf, a few minutes from London Bridge and less than an hour from Gatwick.

It’s ideal for business travellers because it’s close enough to everything that brought you to London for business but far enough away that you don’t feel buried by the huge monster that this city can sometimes be.

EAT

RELAXED Owner Babs has created a real hangout for the Peckham in-crowd with his relaxed bar-restaurant Meet District, and there’s a real sense that it’s a second home for many. Tuck into an artisan burger such as the District Brisket, with chilli-style beef brisket, black beans, melted cheese and sour cream, or grab a cocktail at the bar and catch up with the locals. (125 Queens Road, Peckham, +44 207 564 7215; meetdistrict.co.uk)

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SEASONAL Head under the converted railway arches by Deptford station for your brunch, lunch or just to grab a coffee. Dirty Apron offers a seasonal modern British menu that changes weekly but it’s hard to top the signature crab kedgeree, which is served with flat bread. (Arch 9, 4 Deptford Market Yard, Deptford High Street, +44 20 8320 2610; dirtyapron.co.uk)

SPICY After ten years at Greenwich Market, spice partners Martin and Tao have opened the delightful Thai Garden Café in East Greenwich.

Head to the small garden at the back where you can enjoy the weather, the flowers and fresh, tasty food such as king prawn tempura, pad Thai noodles and papaya salad. There is a BYO policy on alcohol but no corkage charge. (93 Trafalgar Road, Greenwich, +44 20 3663 8760)

GET SMART Getting around London on public transport is a doddle. While Oyster cards are still used across the network, you can also use any contactless bank card to “tap in” on a card reader to ensure you have a valid “ticket” for the journey (and don’t forget to “tap out” with the same card when you arrive at your destination). Pay as you go on bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground, TfL Rail, River Bus and most National Rail services. tfl.gov.uk

LONDON EYE

London Tubes and trains in the summer are, to say the least, a little bit hot and sticky. Skip the tired commute and head instead to one of the docking places along the Thames, such as Embankment, London Bridge or Canary Wharf, and jump on a Thames Clipper boat. Enjoy a beer or coffee as you cruise past the famous sights and leave the others to steam away on the trains. You can even use your Oyster card. Fares one way from £6.50 in the central zone. thamesclippers.com

Only fools would avoid doing business in Peckham right now. Daniel Ford takes a closer look.

DRINK

HISTORIC The Plume of Feathers is Greenwich’s oldest pub, dating back to the 1600s.

Located at the bottom of the Royal Park, this is like a village pub, with a jolly landlord and bountiful blooms. It sits next to the meridian line (longitude 0˚), and there’s a plaque on the wall opposite for photo opps.

(19 Park Vista, Greenwich, +44 20 8858 1661; plumeoffeathersgreenwich.co.uk)

CHOICES So you like to see more than the usual array of drinks on offer when you go out? Then Beer Rebellion is for you, with its array of 13 draught beers, two draught ciders and 21 different cans (plus other drinks), a selection that is regularly changed to ensure there’s always something new on offer in this taster’s heaven. (129 Queens Road, Peckham, +44 20 7732 7552; beerrebellion.org)

QUIRKY Originally set up

by Tristan in 2013 using his nan’s furniture and ornaments, Little Nan’s Bar became famous for its teapot cocktails and craft beers.

It’s a must-be-seen place for Deptford’s burgeoning number of hipsters. If kitsch is your thing then this is the place for you. (Arches 13-15, Deptford Market Yard, +44 779 2205 375; littlenans.co.uk)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LONDON multiple times daily.

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Business

SLEEP

STATELY The glorious Georgian building that is now De Vere Devonport House was formerly part of the historic Royal Naval College in Greenwich. Although close to amenities and transport links, you will feel like you are in a hotel in the country as you stroll through the gardens after dinner.

Rooms from £75 B&B. (King William Walk, Greenwich, +44 20 3811 3558; phcompany.com)

HERITAGE Based in the heart of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage site, the Inn Keeper’s Lodge The Mitre offers 24 rooms above an historic coaching inn. After work you can choose to relax in the pub gardens or catch up with some emails in the residents’ lounge. Rooms from £75. (291 Greenwich High Road, Greenwich, +44 20 8293 0037; innkeeperslodge.com)

HISTORIC Originally built in the early 1800s to serve the local coal workers, the Pilot Inn offers ten rooms in addition to its excellent and cosy pub. It is situated on the Greenwich Peninsula near the O2 Arena with its many restaurants and bars and Jubilee Line link.

Rooms from £80 B&B. (68 River Way, Greenwich, +44 20 8858 5910; pilotgreenwich.co.uk)

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Business

CEO INSIDER…

Originally from Ennis, Co Clare, Sinead Mallozzi is CEO of Sketch, which offers restaurants, bars, art and music across two floors of an 18th-century building in Mayfair. She has lived in London for 23 years but returns to Co Clare every August and December with her family, where they own a little bolthole on the Dromoland Estate, 15 minutes from Shannon Airport.

Where do you like to go when you are not working? I really enjoy the food and splendour of Spring in Somerset House (Lancaster Place, +44 20 3011 0115; springrestaurant.co.uk). The decor is stunning and it’s a perfect location for a leisurely Saturday lunch.

L’Escargot (48 Greek Street, +44 20 7439 7474; lescargot.co.uk) has a great vibe in the evenings; it has retained so much of that old Soho charm and makes me feel 18 again.

Then the River Café (Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, +44 20 7386 4200; rivercafe.co.uk) for delicious Italian food, while Chez Bruce (2 Bellevue Road, Wandsworth Common, +44 20 8672 0114; chezbruce.co.uk) is our local go to. When shopping it’s Liberty (libertylondon.com) for quirky and unusual home products, Diane Von Furstenberg (uk.dvf.com) and Emilia Wickstead (emiliawickstead. com) if I’m dressing to impress, and ME+EM (meandem.com) and Isabel Marant (isabelmarant.com) for my workday wardrobe. I live in white Common Projects trainers (commonprojects.com) and couldn’t imagine life without them.

How do you get around London? I try to walk as much as possible and avoid the Tube.

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If friends are visiting for business, where would you recommend that they visit during downtime?

Impossible to answer. I’ve lived in London for over 20 years and am still exploring. London, like New York, is made up of little villages, but if central I would suggest them donning a pair of trainers and visiting The Royal Academy of Arts (royalacademy. org.uk) and from there walk to the National Portrait Gallery (npg.org. uk) on Trafalgar Square. All the time keep looking up – the architecture in London never ceases to fascinate me.

Is it best to do business over breakfast, coffee or dinner – and where would you recommend?

While dinner used to be the meal of choice to do business, this has changed in the last ten years. We are more conscious of encroaching into people’s leisure time and dinner has predominately become family time.

A mid-morning breakfast is best for business because you’re still fresh and ideas flow more freely. The Parlour at Sketch (9 Conduit Street, +44 20 7659 4500; sketch.london) has recently launched a new menu with a selection of egg dishes, freshly squeezed juices and smoothies served throughout the day. This restaurant was once a magnet for the Soho media crowd who would wear dark sunglasses at breakfast but events of 2009 [economic recession] changed the dining habits of Londoners and we now see a more serious but still creative crowd, consuming apple spritzers and not Bloody Marys.

Top, Sinead Mallozzi, who has lived in London for 23 years.

Above, pink and plump interiors at Sketch. Left, Skye Gyngell’s delightful Spring and below, mouthwatering eats at L’Escargot.

Collect 3 Avios points for every €1 you spend, every time you fly with Aer Lingus or our partner airlines*.

*EXCLUDING TAXES, CHARGES AND ANCILLARIES.

What makes London such an exciting place in which to do business? There is a vibrancy to London that one doesn’t find anywhere else. London has the most wonderful mix of cultures and people, which means that a creative business like Sketch can really flourish here.

DISCOVER ASHFORD CASTLE THIS AUTUMN Celebrating 800 years of History & Hospitality

Discover exceptional seasonal dining and estate activities at Ashford Castle against the magnificent backdrop of autumnal colours. Relax in the Spa, sleep beautifully and enjoy 350 acres of stunning Irish landscape.

ashfordcastle.com

Business

FRAN VEALE

I LOVE VISITING …

A DAY IN THE LIFE

BILBAO The family fly with Aer Lingus and take the bus to San Sebastián. It is a great place for food and culture.

There are so many beautiful pinchos to try. We go to the La Concha beach and the stunning Maria Cristina hotel.

There is a wonderful tapas tour called “Discover San Sebastián” that’s well worth doing.

Cavan man Neven Maguire is proprietor and head chef at the award-winning MacNean House and Restaurant and the adjoining Cookery School in the border village of Blacklion. His TV series – filmed in Ireland, Spain and Italy – have been huge hits on RTÉ.

He is currently putting the finishing touches to his 14th book, Neven Maguire’s Home Economics for Life. nevenmaguire.com

7.30am I am good at getting up and always have a spring in my step. My wife Amelda and I get the twins ready for school. I cook either porridge or a poached egg. I have a small gym attached to the house and after the school run I often do a session with my good friend Peter Goan. Then Amelda and I chill out and catch up over coffee.

11am We both go to the restaurant and meet Andrea, who is my guardian angel/PA/diary manager/organiser. We go through the day, week and longer plans. Do the accounts. Typical office time. We are a business with 65 employees.

Sometimes I do phone interviews. I will be away once or twice a week either filming, or with the Dunnes Simply Better team, or recording chats with my old mate Marty Whelan for Lyric FM. 2pm My head chef Carmel McGirr arrives in the early afternoon and this is our recipe development time. I like constant, slow change through the seasons. Amelda is very involved in the whole business. Except the kitchen!

4pm We are getting geared up for our first service. There are 14 chefs. I shake hands with

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everyone in the kitchen and welcome them to work. It is a kind of “have a good day” and “let me know if there are any issues” handshake.

I saw this in Germany as a trainee and have done it ever since. Then up the road home for family after school time. Children grow up very fast.

VERONA This is a new route for me. I love Lake Garda and the scenery. We hired a car and visited Valeggio, where they make the best pasta in the world, and ate in Alla Borsa, run by a husband and wife and their daughter. It was magnificent.

6pm I am between the kitchen and chatting to our guests. I love the buzz at this time inside and outside the kitchen. Our guests are mostly Irish, apart from summer when there are tourists from everywhere. We are noticing many more Americans coming since my shows have been on PBS TV. 11.30pm Winding down time. I shake hands with everyone in the kitchen and thank them for the day’s work. It is a tradition I like. Then I chat with customers and do photos and sign books. I love the questions and comments – people are so knowledgeable about food now.

I am usually home by midnight. Some nights Amelda has stayed up and we might have a glass of wine. I love football and this is my time to watch a match that I have recorded. Preferably Manchester United. I love my life!

NEW YORK What an amazing, vibrant and fun city. I love markets like the Chelsea Market. You always come back with loads of ideas. There are so many great restaurants but if I had to choose one then Per Se. It is top of the premiership for me.

Business Hotel

ETERNAL

STYLE A short stroll from Rome’s Spanish Steps is the bellissimo Elizabeth Unique Hotel.

C

ontemporary makeovers of 17thcentury properties aren’t always successful, as original features are often left competing with poorly considered design and incongruous artworks. Not so at the Elizabeth Unique Hotel, whose elegant interiors are spot on for a 21st-century Grand Tour.

This recently transformed townhouse is an exercise in restraint, with a cool colour palette – blue, gold, white, cream and accents of marble and houndstooth – complementing its historic bones. Original, modern artworks have been curated by local gallery owner Fabrizio Russo and, in guest rooms, are juxtaposed with large-scale monochrome reproductions of Romantic Italian paintings. Guests can even book private tours of the hotel’s collection.

A virtual concierge is at the other end of

in-room tablets and if there were an award for Most Leisurely Breakfast, the Elizabeth would win gold: its à la carte offering is served daily until 2.30pm in Bar Bacharach and Bistrot – an incongruous homage to the American composer, which also opens up into a chi-chi outdoor terrace. Regional wines have been sourced by the Italian vino expert Luca Maroni, while prime produce from the country’s south are lip-smackingly fresh and seasonal.

Another string to its mandolin is location, the hotel being a rigatoni’s throw from the Spanish Steps. Visitors should also seek out the nearby Keats-Shelley House (keatsshelley-house.org), a wee museum where John Keats lived his final years before his untimely death at the age of 25; his old bedroom is preserved as a fascinating shrine.

Rooms at the Elizabeth Unique Hotel Rome cost from €291. (Via delle Colonnette 35, +800 37 46 83 57; designhotels.com)

ATHENS At the 1930s-era Perianth Hotel, nothing has been left to chance.

Its thoughtful renovation includes showstopping nods to the Streamline Modern movement – Pieta marble, dusky pink, pale green, terrazzo floors, gold fixtures – and even Bauhaus-inspired uniforms by Greek designer Sophia Kokosalaki; a reflection of this hip Agia Eirini enclave. Rooms from €162. designhotels.com

PHILADELPHIA It’s quite the mouthful but there’s nothing superfluous about the Cambria Hotel Philadelphia Downtown Center City. Its location in America’s fastest-growing East Coast metropolis is as practical as its huge business centre, while local beers on tap and a rooftop bar and restaurant are a tonic to the bustle and commerce of Downtown. Rooms from $135. cambriaphiladelphia.com

3 NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK

CHICAGO So new to the market that you can almost smell the fresh paint, Sophy Hyde Park is close to the University of Chicago campus, the Museum of Science and Industry and the future Barack Obama Presidential Library. Playful design – jazzy, upsized abstract art and geometric rugs – and a Michelin star chef, Bradford Shovlin, make this a welcome entry to the Windy City. Rooms from $180. preferredhotels.com 118 |

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NATUR AL CHAR ACTER. TIMELESS ELEGANCE. The K Club, Ireland’s First AA 5 Red Star Hotel, is a luxury resort nestled in the beautiful county of Kildare, where the river Liffey meanders through the soft green countryside.

With the promise of luxurious accommodation, exquisite dining and wonderful experiences such as kayaking, horse riding, and so much more, we look forward to welcoming you and yours, to help you share a moment in time that you’ll never forget.

BOOK YOUR EXPERIENCE AT THE K CLUB NOW. Contact Reservations at: +353 (0) 1 601 7200 E: sales@kclub.ie | Web: www.kclub.ie

Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT

STEVE LANGAN

Fellow of the Royal College of Surgeons, specialised in obstetrics but, when her husband returned from World War I with shellshock, she retrained in psychiatry.

Despite contracting rheumatoid arthritis herself, she continued to support psychiatric patients until her death, aged 77.

MARIAN BRODERICK is the author of Bold, Brilliant & Bad: Irish Women from History. Here she looks at past trailblazers from whom we could all learn a thing or two.

1

Become a self-starter Being a writer is a largely solitary business but the story of Lilian Bland puts this in perspective.

In Co Antrim in 1910, Lilian read everything she could about the new-fangled flying machines, and then designed and built a glider in her uncle’s shed using a combination of bamboo poles, canvas, whiskey crates and her aunt’s ear trumpet. After the successful maiden flight of her glider, Lilian went on to build and fly a powered aircraft, the first woman in the world to do so.

2

Collaboration is key The creative efforts of editors, illustrators and photographers all help make my own work come alive. The Gore-Booth sisters of Co Sligo were very different in personality – Constance was a gun-toting revolutionary while Eva was a pacifist poet – but they advanced each other’s causes.

Eva once campaigned against

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Winston Churchill from the roof of a carriage pulled by four horses, driven at speed around Manchester by Constance.

3

Pay attention to detail In the days of information overload, using reputable sources and getting the facts right is time well spent. Like many rich Victorian women, Mary Ward of Co Offaly could draw beautifully.

But being also a microscopist, her drawings of Birr Castle’s famous Leviathan telescope – constructed in 1845 and the largest in the world until 1918 – were so accurate that, more than a century later, a modern reconstruction of it was built, based on her work.

4

Use a career break to do something new Aged 40, I gave up a job I loved due to painful rheumatoid arthritis – but this apparent disaster marked the beginning of my new career as a writer. Dr Emily Winifred Dickson, Ireland’s first female

Marian’s

SMART CITY

5

Make your voice heard Today I appreciate the benefits of being a member of the National Union of Journalists but a century ago poor working conditions could shorten women’s lives by 20 years.

As a teenager, Rosie Hackett co-founded the Irish Women Workers’ Union. Under pressure, she refused to abandon her factory colleagues and was sacked for her activities but then chose to work for labour rights for the rest of her long life. In 2013, Dublin City Council voted to name a new bridge across the River Liffey after her.

DESTINATION Málaga, because of the way of life and variety of activities. For something childfriendly, visit the interactive music museum or the aquarium. Lovely towns, such as Nerja, are a short bus ride up the coast for a day out.

STAY I like Villa Guadalupe, as it is far enough from the bustle of the city and the beach but easily accessible by public bus or taxi. The decor is rather grand and the rooms have terraces that offer spectacular, twinkling views over the city.

(El Atabal Bandaneira 6, +34 952 432 862; villaguadalupe.com)

6

Keep doing what you love I love writing and I intend to work until I’m dead – and it seems the adventurous gold prospector, Nellie Cashman of Cork, felt the same way. In her 70s, she was famously still hurtling across the snowfields of Canada on her dog sled, looking for new claims.

Bold, Brilliant & Bad: Irish Women from History (O’Brien Press, €16.99) is out now.

EAT My favourite thing is to wander around the tapas bars in town.

Málaga is justly famous for its seafood and I like El Gastronauta for its seafood paella. Alternatively, try Gloria Hoyos for tapas – including vegetarian dishes – and delicious cakes.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Málaga up to three times daily.

C U STO M C r a f T e d LU X U rY

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Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Private function rooms available

Voted overall

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A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.

Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - A must for any trip to Dublin.

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie

See the city like a local.

The DoDublin Card includes : • • • • • •

Direct Airlink Transfer Hop on Hop off City Tour Dublin Bus Travel FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum Entry 3 Day Card for €35

Buy Tickets at : Bus & Travel Information Desk (T1 Arrivals Hall) or Airlink Bus Stop (T1 & T2)

Dublin’s Best Sightseeing & Travel Pass

Airlink Express Hop on Hop off Dublin Bus

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OURLM FI TOP O CE CH GEI130 PA

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome On Board 126 Your Comfort and Safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Binge Watching 138 Music & Radio

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Welcome On Board Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight.

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on YouTube.

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. .

Conas atá tú? Ho w are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you.

When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

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Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Your Comfort and Safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times.

We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network on our A330 aircraft, you must switch off flight mode on your device – once our crew advise it is safe to do so. Follow the simple steps on page 146.

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Are you ready for take-off and landing?

• Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode?

• Is your seatback fully upright?

• Is your armrest down?

• Is your tabletop stowed?

• Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting.

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Aer Lingus Wild Atlantic Way Inflight Video Guide Available Now Transatlantic In-flight Entertainment - TV / Destinations & Lifestyle (A330 Fleet)

Kitty O’Se’s Traditional Pub - Cork

Dunguaire Castle Banquet - Galway

Skellig Walker Boat Tours - Kerry

Clare Island Lighthouse - Mayo

Cliffs of Moher - Clare

Rose of Innisfree Boat Tour - Sligo

Featuring Great Things to Do, Places to Go, Stay, Eat, Drink & Shop

Coming Soon!

Dublin Inflight Video Guide Nominate your Favourite Dublin Visitor Experiences on www.inflightflix.com/nominate InFlightFlix

Your Comfort and Safety

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take-off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

Airbus 33

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For your Safety

Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable:

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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• Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

Fóg ra Sáb háil tea cht Pour vot re Séc urit é Für ihre Sich erh eit Par a su Seg urid ad

Per la vos tra Sicu rezz Säkerh et a om bor d Sikkerh et om bord Sikkerh ed om bord Plea se do

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ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

• Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

• Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

• You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

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Airc raft

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E: info@cliffsofmoher.ie

T: +353 65 7086141 www.cliffsofmoher.ie

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

Avengers: Infinity War

Box Office Movies

The Avengers and their Super Hero allies must be willing to sacrifice all in an attempt to defeat the powerful Thanos before his blitz of devastation and ruin puts an end to the universe.

OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO

Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight.

Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky.

A Quiet Place

PG13

A Wrinkle in Time

PG

90 mins | Horror A family is hiding from creatures that hunt by sound. Stars Emily Blunt, John Krasinski, Millicent Simmonds

110 mins | Adventure Meg travels through time and space to find her father.

Stars Oprah Winfrey, Reese Witherspoon, Mindy Kaling

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Maze Runner: The Death Cure

R

Rampage

Avengers: Infinity War

PG13

149 mins | Action The Avengers risk it all in a showdown with Thanos.

Stars Robert Downey Jr, Chris Hemsworth, Mark Ruffalo EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

PG13

Ready Player One

PG13

Basmati Blues

PG13

Black Panther

106 mins | Musical A scientist goes to India to sell genetically modified rice.

Stars Brie Larson, Utkarsh Ambudkar, Scott Bakula

134 mins | Action Facing an old enemy, T’Challa’s mettle as king is tested. Stars Chadwick Boseman, Michael B Jordan, Lupita Nyong‘o

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Red Sparrow

R

PG13

The 15:17 to Paris

144 mins | Action A hero embarks on a mission to find a cure for a virus.

Stars Dylan O‘Brien, Ki Hong Lee, Kaya Scodelario

106 mins | Action Mutated gorilla, wolf and crocodile rampage across America. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Naomie Harris, Malin Akerman

140 mins | Action Virtual reality world OASIS users are challenged by its creator. Stars Tye Sheridan, Olivia Cooke, Ben Mendelsohn

138 mins | Mystery A Russian spy is forced to use her body as a weapon.

Stars Jennifer Lawrence, Joel Edgerton, Charlotte Rampling

94 mins | Drama Three Americans discover a terrorist plot aboard a train.

Stars Alek Skarlatos, Judy Greer, Anthony Sadler, Spencer Stone

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

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R

Isle of Dogs By executive decree, all the canine pets of Megasaki City are exiled to a vast garbage-dump called Trash Island. Twelve-year-old Atari sets off alone in search of his bodyguard-dog, Spots, helped by a pack of newlyfound mongrel friends.

Blockers

R

Game Night

R

Isle of Dogs

PG13

Lady Bird

R

Love, Simon

PG13

102 mins | Comedy Three overprotective parents flip out when they find out about their daughters‘ plans.

Stars Kathryn Newton, John Cena, Leslie Mann

100 mins | Comedy A group of friends try to solve a murder mystery. Stars Jason Bateman, Rachel McAdams, Kyle Chandler

101 mins | Animation Isle of Dogs follows a boy‘s search for his dog, Spots.

Voiced by Bryan Cranston, Koyu Rankin, Edward Norton

94 mins | Comedy An artistically inclined girl comes of age in Sacramento.

Stars Saoirse Ronan, Laurie Metcalf, Tracy Letts

109 mins | Drama Simon must face everyone and come to terms with his identity. Stars Nick Robinson, Jennifer Garner, Josh Duhamel

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

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Tomb Raider

PG13

Tully

R

Wonder Wheel

PG13

Peter Rabbit

PG

Sherlock Gnomes

118 mins | Action Lara Croft discovers the island where her father disappeared. Stars Alicia Vikander, Dominic West, Walton Goggins

92 mins | Drama Marlo comes to form a unique bond with a young nanny. Stars Charlize Theron, Mackenzie Davis, Mark Duplass

101 mins | Drama A carousel operator‘s wife pursues an affair with a lifeguard. Stars Justin Timberlake, Juno Temple, Kate Winslet

95 mins | KidZone An adaptation of Beatrix Potter‘s classic tale of a rabbit.

Voiced by James Corden, Fayssal Bazzi, Domhnall Gleeson

86 mins | KidZone Sherlock Gnomes investigates garden gnomes disappearance.

Voiced by Kelly Asbury, Mary J Blige, Emily Blunt

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

PG

G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |

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Movie Classics

A selection of classic movies is available onboard today along with some popular movies such as The Wedding Singer, Hairspray and Music and Lyrics. Plus don‘t forget to check out some of our new and awardwinning Irish shorts and features too!

A E R L I N G U S TA K E O F F F O U N DAT I O N

About Time R 119 mins | Stars Domhnall Gleeson, Rachel McAdams, Bill Nighy

Alien R 117 mins | Stars Sigourney Weaver, Tom Skerritt, John Hurt

Assassin‘s PG13 Creed 115 mins | Stars Michael Fassbender, Marion Cotillard

Begin Again 104 mins | Stars Keira Knightley, Mark Ruffalo, Adam Levine

EN

EN

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EN FR DE ES

EN

Crazy Heart R 107 mins | Stars Jeff Bridges, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Colin Farrell

Fever Pitch 103 mins | Stars Colin Firth, Ruth Gemmell

PG13 Goal! III 94 mins | Stars JJ Feild, Leo Gregory, Kuno Becker

Groundhog PG Day 101 mins | Stars Bill Murray, Andie MacDowell

Grudge Match PG13 113 mins | Stars Robert De Niro, Sylvester Stallone

R

EN

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R

EN FR DE IT ES

Catwoman PG13 102 mins | Stars Halle Berry, Sharon Stone, Benjamin Bratt

EN FR DE IT ES

We are delighted to offer award winning short films from the Aer Lingus Irish Filmmaker Competition; Goodbye, Darling

by Maria Elena Doyle, The Lost Letter by Brian Willis and Leap of Faith directed by Mark Smyth. Also available is The Secret Market by Garrett Daly and Martina McGlynn.

Goodbye, Darling

PG13

13 mins | Drama A love story of an Irish Volunteer in the 1916 Rising.

Stars Aoibhinn McGinnity EN

Hairspray PG 116 mins | Stars John Travolta, Queen Latifah, Nikki Blonsky

Harry Potter PG and the Prisoner of Azkaban

How to Be Single 108 mins | Stars Dakota Johnson

Midnight PG13 in Paris 94 mins | Stars Owen Wilson

Miss PG13 Congeniality 107 mins | Stars Sandra Bullock, Michael Caine

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

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EN FR DE IT ES

Music PG13 and Lyrics 104 mins | Stars Hugh Grant, Drew Barrymore

Pelé: Birth PG of a Legend 107 mins | Stars Vincent D‘Onofrio

Sleepless PG in Seattle 104 mins | Stars Tom Hanks, Meg Ryan

The Heat R 114 mins | Stars Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy

The Hunger PG13 Games: Mockingjay – Part 1 122 mins | Stars

Jennifer Lawrence

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EN FR DE IT ES

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The Time PG13 Traveler‘s Wife 106 mins | Stars Eric Bana

The Wedding PG13 Singer 97 mins | Stars Adam Sandler

Victory PG 117 mins | Stars Michael Caine, Sylvester Stallone

Walk the Line PG13 136 mins | Stars Joaquin Phoenix, Reese Witherspoon

27 Dresses PG13 111 mins | Stars Katherine Heigl, James Marsden

EN FR DE IT ES

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EN

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES

142 mins | Stars Daniel Radcliffe

R

Leap of Faith

PG13

14 mins | Drama Kelly is captivated by her new neighbour. Stars Leah Egan EN

The Lost Letter

PG

8 mins | Animation A boy tries to spread Christmas cheer. Voiced by Kate Winslet EN

The Secret Market

PG13

23 mins | Drama A surgeon‘s past life haunts her.

Stars Victoria Smurfit EN

I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S

Inside I‘m PG13 Racing 18 mins | Stars Frank Blake, Ethan Dodd

Same Old PG13 Song and Dance 3 mins | Voiced by Darragh Keating, Rachel Feeney

A Novel PG13 Approach to Dating 9 mins | Stars Stephen Broekhuizen

The PG13 Postcard 5 mins | Stars Áine Gallagher, Craig Stewart

Poxy PG13 14 mins | Stars Scott Graham, Art Kearns, Lewish Harris

Wave PG13 14 mins | Stars Tj O‘Grady Peyton, Emmet Kirwan, Tiny James

Meetings PG13 With Ivor 82 mins | Stars Ivor Browne

EN

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EN

EN

EN

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The PG13 Delinquent Season 103 mins | Stars Cillian Murphy, Andrew Scott EN

Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland.

Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.

Try our Limited Edition Powers “The Long Hall” Single Cask Release.

Cask No.11791 was bottled especially for us to mark our 250th Anniversary.

OPEN DAILY AT 12 NOON 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590

REAL LIFE

Beach Life with Angela Kan Angela explores Cairns, Australia Hotel Fixer The Brennans restore hospitality businesses Ice Holes The guys devise their unofficial contest with rival Josh Jamie and Jimmy‘s Friday Night Feast Chris O‘Dowd and Dawn O‘Porter‘s honeymoon meal Lyndey Milan‘s Taste of Ireland Lyndey tastes her way across Ireland QI A comedy panel game where you don‘t have to be right Rude(ish) Tube The funniest, freakiest and most incredible clips Take Me Out Bachelors try to impress single women Treyvaud’s Travels Treyvaud travels to Enniskillen to meet Pat O’Doherty

TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.

Project Runway

SPORT

Television’s hit fashion series showcases America’s most talented new fashion designers. Hosted by Emmy Award-winning fashion icons, Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn, designers face new challenges to demonstrate their unique talents and test their skills. On board is Series 16, Episode 1.

BUSINESS

L E A R N & D I S C OV E R

CNBC Conversation Kate Hudson talks about acting and business Managing Asia Anthony Tan is a co-founder and group CEO of Grab Marketing. Media. Money Formula 1 Grand Prix motorsport Talkin‘ Success An inspiring show about entrepreneurship The Rise of Us – Fire in You Meet four South African entrepreneurs What‘s Your Custom Sneaker customisation is booming L AU G H O U T L O U D

2 Broke Girls Two waitresses at a diner hope to launch their business Detectorists Two metal detectorists plod along tracks and fields Father Ted Sitcom about 3 priests who live on Craggy Island, Ireland Fresh Off the Boat A Taiwanese family makes their way in US Friends Personal and professional lives of six friends in New York How I Met Your Mother A father tells his kids about their mother It‘s Always Sunny in Philadelphia Lives of an Irish bar proprietors The Last Man On Earth A virus wipes out the human race The Middle The daily mishaps of a semi-dysfunctional family Two and a Half Men A hedonistic writer‘s life with his brother Young Sheldon The early life of child genius Sheldon Cooper 134 |

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Designing Ireland Meet the Irish designers, makers and creators Don‘t Tell the Bride (Ireland) A bride hands control to a groom How to Win at Everything Experts hold their breath for a long time Man vs Octopus Contests compare their abilities Supercar Megabuild Experts engineer the Audi R8 Drifter The Gloaming: Moment to Moment A group of five musicians The Secret World of Trees Native Irish trees and woodlands The Shelbourne The Shelbourne Hotel is a piece of living history Tracks and Trails Explore Dublin‘s Royal Canal Tut‘s Treasures Tutankhamun’s tomb in the Egyptian Museum MUSIC & ARTS

Beneath the Surface Big wave surfer Andrew Cotton Dream Teams Who makes it into Brazil’s Greatest XI? Epic Trails Eric Hanson explores the world’s top trails Football‘s Greatest Stage The World Cup’s greatest teams Super Bowl LII The action-packed highlights from Super Bowl LII Up Close With Neymar The lifestyles of biggest sport stars NEWS & EVENTS

In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

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7 Minutes in Heaven Celebrity interviews with Mike O‘Brien Alec Baldwin‘s Love Ride Alec bestows love advice onto couples riding in NYC cabs Foil, Arms and Hog A compilation from the Irish comedy group Remember When The funny side of basketball through daily videos Sound Advice A media coach helps celebrities, one joke at a time Workball Short videos from The Kicker office for sports fans WELLBEING

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Ageless Gardens The role gardens can play in healthy aging Chasing Happiness The research about happiness Chasing Sleep Medical series that will make a sleep guru out of you Real Health Topics about holistic health solutions The Food Files The real benefits and risks of our favourite foods Yoga From Your Seat Exercises to do on a plane K I DZ O N E

Avatar: The Last Airbender Katara discovers who is the Avatar Drake & Josh Drake and Josh compete in a Salsa-Making Contest Giving Tales Classic fairy tales

by Hans Christian Anderson PAW Patrol A group of six rescue dogs have adventures Rocka-Bye Island Sean, Roisin and friends go to a magical preschool Roobarb and Custard A loveable dog and sarcastic pink cat Victorious A childhood bet turns Tori into Trina‘s personal slave

Pharrell: Live From Hyde Park Pharrell Williams performs tracks from his illustrious career such as Grammy award-winning tracks Happy and Get Lucky.

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Auction: David Bowie Special David Bowie‘s ‘secret‘ art collection Olly Murs: Live From Hyde Park Olly performs in Hyde Park Patricia Routledge on Beatrix Potter Featuring Beatrix Potter Smart Secrets of Great Paintings The Primavera by Sandro Botticelli The Rolling Stones: Havana Moon Once in a lifetime concert

Brooklyn Nine-Nine Detective Jake Peralta and the 99th Precinct crew are back for the fourth season of award-winning comedy. Jake and Captain Holt are under witness-protection as the search for dangerous criminal Figgis continues. On board is Series 4, Episodes 3 and 4.

Historic O’Neill’s

the famous Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

• Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous • Pour Your Own Pint tables Carvery serving only the finest Irish • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s Lonely Planet rate us as one of the our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a Top 5 Places to find ‘Real Irish food fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys in Dublin’ and malts • Irish Music and Traditional Irish • HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan Dancing 7 nights-a-week with major international league games.

• Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Largest selection of local Irish can’t be beaten for quality and value.

Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, 11 items plus tea/coffee, toast, jam representing as many of the local and butter is only €8.95, Pictured Craft Breweries as possible, rotating below. This special offer is available and guesting beers Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am.

MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

DAWSON STREET DUBLIN 2

The Chef carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery.

MARCO PIERRE WHITE COURTYARD BAR & GRILL

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

DONNYBROOK DUBLIN 4 Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

✹▲❙❙ ❋ ✫❙

Binge Watching Choose from a broad selection of boxsets to watch on board from the aristocratic period drama Downton Abbey to the corporate world of Suits.

Delve into the hugely popular Big Little Lies and Peaky Blinders or the quirky drama Fargo. Also on board are Riverdale, Arrow, Get Shorty and The Walking Dead.

Arrow Season 6

Big Little Lies Season 1

Big Little Lies weaves a darkly comedic tale of murder and mischief in the tranquil beach front town of Monterey, California. Told through the eyes of three mothers – the series‘ narrative explores society‘s myths regarding perfection and its romanticisation of marriage, sex, parenting and friendship.

R

Billionaire playboy Oliver Queen returns home to Star City after disappearing for five years, but his crime-fighting team is threatened by unexpected enemies, forcing Oliver to rethink his relationship with each member of his ‘family‘.

Downton Abbey Season 4 PG13

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Peaky Blinders Season 1 & 2 R An epic gangster drama set in the lawless streets of post-war Birmingham on the cusp of the 1920s. The story centres on a street gang led by the fierce Tommy Shelby (Cillian Murphy).

Riverdale Season 1 & 2

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The Crawley family is embroiled in intrigue and potential scandal. Lady Mary is in mourning and pays no heed to the two new suitors while Lady Edith fairs no better as her own love life takes a tragic turn.

Riverdale follows Archie Andrews’ life in the small town of Riverdale and explores the darkness hidden behind its seemingly perfect image. Amidst all the small-town banality lurks a mystery: the recent tragic death of Jason Blossom.

Fargo Season 3

Suits Season 7

R

PG13

The third season centres on Emmit and his younger brother Ray (both played by Ewan McGregor). Their sibling rivalry follows a twisted path that begins with petty theft but soon leads to murder and mobsters.

The future of a top Manhattan law firm is threatened by its past. Meanwhile, engaged Rachel (Meghan Markle) and Mike (Patrick J Adams) contemplate whether they should prioritise their relationship over the firm for once.

Get Shorty Season 1

The Walking Dead Season 7 R

R

Dark comedy series inspired by the best-selling Elmore Leonard‘s novel. Get Shorty follows Miles Daly (Chris O‘Dowd), the muscle for a Nevada crime ring who attempts to become a movie producer in Hollywood.

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Weeks and months after the apocalypse, Rick‘s world becomes even more brutal due to Negan‘s deadly rules. Will the three communities come together and take on Negan‘s army in an all-out war?

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

WE LOVE IT WHEN YOU LOVE IT...

Open daily Book a day trip from Dublin with Railtours Ireland

“It’s crystal clear”

A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects

On social media:

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal”

Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items

www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com Phone: +353 (0) 51 317000

Trocadero, has been a bastion of the Dublin Restaurant scene and a by-word for hospitality for over 60 years.

The warm welcome and relaxed atmosphere, coupled with excellent service and attention to detail make Trocadero perfect for all occasions. An ideal spot to entertain guests, celebrate with family and gather with friends.

FOR RESERVATIONS +00353 677 5545 TROCADEROIRELAND@GMAIL.COM WWW.TROCADERO.IE

Monday – Friday: 5pm until after theatre Saturday: 4pm until after theatre No.4, St. Andrew Street, Dublin 2, Ireland

George Ezra

Music & Radio

British singer-songwriter George Ezra is back with chart-topping, charming folk-pop-rhythms-filled Staying at Tamara’s. In this sophomore album largely written in Barcelona, Ezra sings about dream, love, escaping reality and living in the moment. Uplifting summer anthem Shotgun and the breezy romantic tune Paradise are the album‘s highlights.

Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

RTÉ Lyric FM Marty in the Morning RTÉ lyric fm The Full Score with Liz Nolan RTÉ lyric fm EASY LISTENING

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels INDIE

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

POP

Breakfast Republic 2FM Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs RTÉ Gold Digital Radio Al Dunne, RTÉ Gold, 4 decades of great music Ronan Collins RTÉ Radio 1, Featuring listeners’ old favourites, plus the best of the new and some surprises in between 98FM’s Top 10 Summer Songs with Barry Dunne 98FM

Marty in the Morning RTÉ lyric fm is a music station with a classical bias whilst also offering the listener a vast and eclectic array of music from all periods, continents, genres, styles and expressive forms.

Join Marty as he takes listeners on a journey to de-stress on board your flight today.

ROCK

Marty Miller Radio Nova

IRISH

Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E

CAKE – Culture & Arts for Kids and Everyone Abie Philbin Bowman, RTÉ Junior

TA L K

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One Two documentaries are on offer from RTÉ Radio 1‘s multi award winning Documentary On One. The first is on Russian spies and their ties to Ireland, and the second is on Pauline Dunne, an introvert who sees the positives in people with quieter dispositions.

AU D I O B O O K

Fenian‘s Trace The story of two boys raised as brothers in early 1900s Ireland who choose different paths when the rebellion comes but fall in love with the same woman.

Written by Sean P Mahoney and narrated by Liam Carney.

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Breakfast Republic on 2FM Jennifer, Keith and Bernard wake up the nation every weekday morning with comedy and music on 2fm. For this special Aer Lingus episode of Breakfast Republic they bring you just some of their favourite sketches and songs which even include some originals by Bernard.

Chloe x Halle

We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!

Sisters Chloe and Halle Bailey, aka Chloe x Halle, caught the attention of none other than R&B Queen Beyoncé after winning a Disney radio competition.

Chloe x Halle were quickly signed to Bey’s label and opened the European leg of her Formation tour.

The versatile young singers also star in Grown-ish and their new album The Kids are Alright features in the new Disney movie A Wrinkle in Time.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

Bill Withers Just as I Am Bob Dylan Blonde on Blonde Daryl Hall & John Oates The Essential Collection Earth, Wind & Fire That’s the Way of the World Simon & Garfunkel Bridge Over Troubled Water Wham! Make It Big

COUNTRY

Jason Aldean Rearview Town Kenny Chesney Live in No Shoes Nation Rachel Wammack Rachel Wammack Russell Dickerson Yours Tim McGraw The Rest of Our Life Walker Hayes Boom

First Aid Kit Ruins Lo Moon Lo Moon Moon Taxi Let The Record Play The Lone Bellow Walk Into a Storm The Neighbourhood The Neighbourhood Tom Grennan Found what I‘ve Been Looking For

DVBBS Blood of My Blood Kygo Kids in Love Lost Frequencies Less is More Michael Bersch Departure Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Sick Boy IR ISH

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Francesco Grillo The Four Seasons Leif Ove Andsnes Sibelius Lang Lang Romance LGT Young Soloists Nordic Dream Lucas Debargue Schubert, Szymanowski Nils Mönkemeyer Baroque

Moss Kena exploded onto the scene when he reworked Kendrick Lamar’s These Walls to the acclaim of Lamar himself. The newcomer’s debut I Found You in 06 is a five-track EP which puts the British singer’s mesmerising voice and unique interpretation of R&B beats to the fore. The music video for opening track Square One is as unmissable as the EP.

JA Z Z

Avishai Cohen 1970 Bill Frisell Music IS Dee Dee Bridgewater Memphis... Yes, I‘m Ready Keyon Harrold The Mugician Silje Nergaard For You a Thousand Times Sly & Robbie Nordub M E TA L

ELEC TRO A LT E R N AT I V E

Moss Kena

Celtic Thunder Inspirational Christy Moore On the Road Little Hours Too Much Patience Simon Taylor Now Then The Script Acoustic Sessions Van Morrison You‘re Driving Me Crazy

Arch Enemy Will to Power Judas Priest Firepower Motörhead The Very Best of Ozzy Osbourne No More Tears Papa Roach Crooked Teeth Soilwork The Living Infinite OPER A

Christian Gerhaher Romantische Arien Jonas Kaufmann L‘Opéra Nuria Rial, Maurice Steger Baroque Twitter Pretty Yende Dreams The London Oratory Schola Cantorum Boys Choir Sacred Treasures of England Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets

P OP

Camila Cabello Camila George Ezra Staying At Tamara‘s Justin Timberlake Man of the Woods Matt Cardle Time to Be Alive Paloma Faith The Architect Prettymuch Prettymuch RNB

Chloe x Halle The Kids Are Alright Craig David The Time Is Now Leon Bridges Good Thing Miguel War & Leisure Moss Kena Found You in 06 The Isley Brothers The Ultimate Isley Brothers

ROCK

Dreamcar Dreamcar Nothing But Thieves Broken Machine The Isley Brothers & Santana Power of Peace The Vaccines Combat Sports Three Days Grace Outsider Toto Greatest Hits – 40 Trips Around the Sun K I DZ O N E

Archie Campbell Kids, I Love ‘Em! Arthur Fiedler Classics For Children Carole King Really Rosie Judson Mancebo Babies Love Queen Various Artists DreamWorks Trolls – The Beat Goes On! Various Artists The Wacky World of Mother Goose AERLINGUS.COM |

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Where are you flying to?

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens.

Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have.

Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Passport Control and Security Screening

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Geataí Gates

101-335

Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Departure Gate

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow

401-426

Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Flight Connections for North American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

For Sale by Private Treaty “Seaview House”, Lower Rosses, Rosses Point, Co. Sligo.

A lifetime opportunity to acquire this bespoke architecturally designed Irish residence. A peaceful and private hideaway located in the heart of the Yeats County on Lower Rosses Point, with wonderful uninterrupted views of Drumcliff Bay and the commanding Benbulben. Seaview House is nestled on c.5.5 acres of wild meadow, cleverly hidden away in a sheltered bay with private access to a pebbled beach.

Accommodation of c.5,500 square ft, comprising of 6 bedrooms finished to the highest of standards. This fine home offers privacy and seclusion, yet is in convenient proximity to the full amenities of Sligo City just 10 minute’s drive and Ireland West Airport just 40 minutes. Price on Application.

4 Teeling Street, Sligo, F91 HE36, Ireland Jonathan Mc Goldrick MIPAV MCEI +353(0)87 9300300 Marc Mac Sharry MIPAV MCEI +353(0)71 9148884 +353 (0) 71 914 8884 E-mail: info@osmg.ie Web: www.osmg.ie PSRA - 002395-003297

Our European and North American Route Network

Anchorage Juneau

Ketchikan

Edmonton

Vancouver

Bellingham

Victoria

Seattle Portland

Saskatoon

Eugene

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Bellingham

Victoria

Kalispell

Wenatchee

Seattle

Spokane Pullman

Pasco Yakima

Great Falls

Walla Walla

Portland Redmond Eugene

Thunder Bay

Missoula

Belgrade

San Jose

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Grand Rapids

Denver

Reno

Kansas City

Fort Wayne Chicago

Oakland

Louisville

Wichita Springfield Las Vegas

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Tucson

Providence

Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia

Greensboro

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

El Paso Houston

Halifax

Portland ME

Washington (National)

Knoxville

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Austin

Newark

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore

Lexington

Memphis

Albany

Hartford

Washington (Dulles)

Little Rock Phoenix

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Moncton

Burlington Syracuse

Cincinnati

Nashville

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Akron Canton

Dayton

Indianapolis

St Louis

San Francisco Fresno

Des Moines

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids Omaha

Toronto

Fredericton

Montreal

Ottawa

Salt Lake City

Santa Rosa

Duluth

Billings

Medford

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

New Orleans

Savannah

Tallahassee Pensacola

San Antonio

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

Honolulu Honolulu Kahului Kahului

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to twelve US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines. You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Preclearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet) Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by City Flyer)

Route map correct at time of print.

Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg

Amsterdam London London City London Southend Heathrow

Southampton

Berlin

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid

Alicante Murcia Malaga Faro

Tenerife

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Lanzarote TenerifeGran Canaria

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your tablet, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Athens Catania

Izmir

Our Middle East and Australasia Route Network You can book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East and Australia via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

Staying connected on board*

Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.

THE SMARICTE CHO

Aer Social

Aer Max

€6.95

€13.95

€29.95

UP TO 50MB

UP TO 120MB

UP TO 250MB

$7.95

Mobile Network on board

With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**.

Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

1 Switch on

$15.95

$32.95

Wi-Fi on board in six steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode.

Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Aeromobile

2 Connect

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

3 Welcome SMS

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

International roaming rates apply.

4 Connected

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 146 |

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3 Purchase Internet Access

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.

opening hours

mon to thur: 3pm – 11:30pm fri & sat: 3pm – 12:30am sun: 3pm – 11pm

live music sessions

sunday & monday from 9pm

complementary cheeseboard

tuesday from 9pm

WALSH’S

2018 WINNER

STO N EYBAT T E R

In the heart of Stoneybatter, five minutes walk from the Jameson Distillery, come experience the craic and atmosphere of a real Dublin neighbourhood pub. Before you leave, be sure to have a pint in one of Ireland’s last remaining authentic snugs.

Stoneybatter, Dublin 7 | +353(01) 670 8647 | info@walshsstoneybatter.ie | www.walshsstoneybatter.ie

AerClub is our way of recognising and rewarding our regular flyers. When you fly with Aer Lingus you collect Tier Credits and Avios. Find out ways to make the most of your membership.

Unlocking the benefits of AerClub The more you fly, the more Tier Credits you earn, the higher up the tiers you move whilst unlocking even greater benefits. You can also collect Avios with Aer Lingus and our airline, retail and travel partners.

How can I spend my Avios?

You can spend your Avios on reward flights with Aer Lingus and AerClub partner airlines, as well as on hotel stays, car hire and travel experiences such as city tours, helicopter rides, hot air ballooning and lots more.

Get the details right!

In order to get all the benefits to which you are entitled, ensure that your profile name (first name, last name) matches your passport name exactly. If this needs to be updated, contact AerClub via the Aer Lingus website and provide a copy of your passport as proof of ID. To update your email and postal addresses, log into your AerClub profile from your desktop and amend in the ‘My Details’ section.

AerClub Tier Benefits

Spend Avios on flights Earn Tier Credits on Aer Lingus flights Exclusive AerClub member reward offers Tier Bonus on collecting Avios Priority check-in Fast track Priority boarding Lounge access for the card holder Partner airline lounge access*

• Check out our short videos about AerClub at aerlingus.com/aerclub.

Guaranteed seat on full flight†

Enjoy your flight and happy collecting! aerlingus.com/aerclub

PLATINUM

Collect Avios with our retail, travel and leisure partners

Lounge access for a guest

• Sign up for AerClub mailings in the ‘My Details’ section of your profile to hear about competitions, events and offers.

SILVER

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How do I check my balance?

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DESERT

Dublin motorsports superstar Rosemary Smith has won some of the world’s biggest championships, and here recalls racing in the East African Safari Rally. n 1974, my co-driver was Pauline Gullick, an excellent navigator and someone I had driven with many times. She was thrilled to be going to Africa with me and, as usual, I was up for everything and anything.

It was the year in which the East African Safari Rally was rechristened

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as the shorter Safari Rally. It was a 6,000-kilometre, five-day ordeal.

The journey began in Nairobi, from where we headed west through the Serengeti to the Victoria Falls, then east via Malawi to the coast at Mombasa and north again to return to the starting point.

The Safari Rally is regarded as the toughest in the world, even in reasonable weather, but what

Girl racer – Rosemary, 80, was at the peak of her powers in the 1960s and 1970s but is showing few signs of slowing down.

we encountered in 1974 was unprecedented. The Kenyans had never seen such a wet season and it rained in the desert for the first time in five years. We had only two days to do a recce and we drove some of the stages to check conditions so that Pauline could make notes in the road book. We did it, the weather was good and we were feeling optimistic.

We spent our first night in the Samburu Game Lodge, which gave us the unexpected opportunity to meet some of the wildlife of Kenya.

In the restaurant, as we ate our supper, monkeys joined us to share our food, while in the bedroom, the large beds were taking up the whole of the room with mosquito nets covering them. I walked into the bathroom to see a snake writhing in the shower. I ran screaming to reception and the manager came back with his gun, only to find that it was a centipede and not a snake, which was a bit embarrassing. He took it away and we got to bed, although I don’t think either of us slept very well.

The following day, we continued our recce and then returned to Nairobi to make the final preparations for the start of the rally.

The event itself was gruelling as a result of the rains. There were times when I hallucinated through lack of sleep, times we literally got stuck in the mud, and at one point a huge pothole, and others when locals where less than helpful, but we got through it and I will never forget those final miles driving to the finish in Nairobi. The route was lined with hundreds of people, stopping the car and cheering us on. The Kenyan women were giving us baskets of fruit; it was all very emotional and I certainly had a few tears when we reached the finish.

The rallies I drove in all around the world have been wonderful experiences and I loved every minute of them. Racing was where it was at if you wanted to prove yourself with the men and I always loved the thrill of it.

Rosemary Smith’s autobiography Driven (HarperCollins) is released next month. rosemarysmith.ie

PHOTOGRAPH BY BETA BAJGART

TRIP OF A LIFETIME | KENYA

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