CARA August 2013

cara magazine August 2013

August 2013

aer lingus international Hurling Festival

Customer magazine of the year

actor robert Sheehan irish canoe trail

Eastern Philosophy Living it up in London’s East End

Warrior Ethos The Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival

Lake Tranquil

Following the Carlingford canoe trail

the everglades

Wet & wild

An Everglades eco-story

Baden-Baden

Old World Glamour

london

Rediscovering Baden-Baden

andalucĂ­a edinburgh prague

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Screen Idol Robert Sheehan hits Hollywood

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Contents

30

August 2013

Robert Sheehan – screen idol

48

Carlingford calm

60

Win-win in Baden-Baden

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Features

Regulars

06 ARRIVALS Homecomings and holidays in Dublin’s T2

30 MISFIT MOVES ON Hollywood beckons for actor Robert Sheehan, finds Tony Clayton-Lea

104 48 HOURS IN PRAGUE Brendan Harding explores the Czech capital

36 CLASH OF THE ASH Ingmar Kiang goes behind the scenes of the Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival

107 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO EDINBURGH Eoin Carey gets into festival spirit

09 CHECK IN The best events, hotels, restaurants and trends this August 20 WHAT’S IN MY SUITCASE Chef Clodagh McKenna’s must-haves 22 SMART TRAVELLER Sarah Gill on Lisbon, and business lunches in Geneva 24 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican flicks through PhotoIreland’s new book, and talks inspiration with Selina Guinness 26 ON MY TRAVELS Fashion designer Peter O’Brien’s hotspots 28 HORSING AROUND This month’s Irish equestrianism by Jonny Beardsall

48 LOUGH LIFE Catherine Mack paddles Ireland’s south east canoe trail 60 A CLASS RESORT Aoife Carrigy luxuriates in spa town Baden-Baden 72 LONDON RECALLING The East End uncovered by Tilly Culme-Seymour 86 STRANGE PARADISE Paddy Woodworth explores Florida’s Everglades 98 5 BEST ANDALUCÍAN HOTELS Top retreats in Spain’s south by Lucy White

111 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT The latest films, TV, music and flight information 136 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Jenny Young survives the Médoc wine marathon

107

Contributors EDITORIAL Editor Fran Power Acting Editor Eoin Higgins Deputy Editor Lucy White Editorial Assistant Niamh Wade Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Liz Dwyer Group Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith ADVERTISING Commercial Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie Advertising Manager Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie

Aoife Carrigy is a food writer, blogger

(holymackerel.ie), editor and freelance journalist specialising in food, wine, travel and the arts. She writes a weekly wine column for The Irish Mail on Sunday and is a regular contributor to FOOD&WINE Magazine, where she was deputy editor for several years. Aoife was co-author of The Ard Bia Cookbook and general editor of The ICA Cookbook and The ICA Book of Home and Family. She lectures in journalism at the Independent College Dublin, contributes to radio and TV on food-related matters and can be found at various Irish food festivals chairing ‘For Food’s Sake’ food talks.

Paddy Woodworth is an author, journalist, lecturer, broadcaster and specialist tour guide. He was on staff at The Irish Times from 1988-2002, and has also written for the International Herald Tribune, Vanity Fair, The Scientist, The Sunday Times, Ecological Restoration, The World Policy Journal and BBC Wildlife. Most recently, he has researched ecological restoration projects worldwide for his latest book, Our Once and Future Planet: Restoring the World in the Climate Change Century (University of Chicago Press), which is out in October.

Publisher Richard Power ADMINISTRATION Acting Head of PR & Promotions Roisin Finnegan, +353 (0)1 271 9643, roisin.finnegan@image.ie Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie.

Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content.

Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie IMAGE Publications Ltd –

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOËLLE O’REILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE

Tilly Culme-Seymour grew up in West London and studied English at Trinity College, Dublin. She is now based back in London, where she writes on food and travel. Her first book, Island Summers (Bloomsbury) weaves the story of three generations of women against the backdrop of the starkly beautiful Norwegian south, where her grandmother, apocryphally purchased an island in exchange for a mink coat. A Scandinavian island summer is still Tilly’s idea of bliss. But if not there, she is perfectly content given a day exploring London’s East End.

August 2013

Customer magazine of the year

Eastern Philosophy Living it up in London’s East End

Warrior Ethos

The Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival

Lake Tranquil

Following the Carlingford canoe trail

Wet & wild

An Everglades eco-story

Old World Glamour

Rediscovering Baden-Baden

Screen Idol Robert Sheehan hits Hollywood

PlUS

BOARD OF DIRECTORS Managing Director Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Robert Power Directors Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor, Patrick Dillon-Malone, Laura George PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

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ON THE COVER

Freshly risen, Julia Lurie of E5 Bakehouse, East London, photographed by Steve Ryan.

Celebrating luxury, creativity, service and the very best Irish and international brands since 1849.

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BROWN THOMAS GRAFTON STREET DUBLIN, PATRICK STREET CORK, O’CONNELL STREET LIMERICK, EGLINGTON BUILDINGS GALWAY WWW.BROWNTHOMAS.COM

who? Emma and Isabelle Osan and Brian Harrison Flying in From Barbados here For ... This is Granddad Brian’s first time meeting baby Isabelle. Emma and Isabelle are home from Barbados for a few weeks.

who? Lexa and Ben murphy Flying in From Nashville here For ... Lexa and Ben are in Dublin on a flying visit before they head across to France for a road trip.

who? Eileen Smith and Adam Kennedy Smith Flying in From Hamburg here For ... Eileen is delighted to have Adam home after his two week holiday in Hamburg. Even though he thought school in Germany was cool, he is glad to be home.

Arrivals

Cara magazine was in Dublin’s T2 this month, meeting Aer Lingus passengers celebrating homecomings, holidays and adventures abroad. who? Deirdre and Patricia Seymour Flying in From Cuba here For ...

The Seymour sisters are exhilarated after a once-in-a-lifetime holiday backpacking through Cuba.

WORDS By méABH mCDONNELL. PHOTOGRAPHS By ANTHONy WOODS

who Brenda Flinter and Tom Knierrim Flying From Brussels here For ... Brenda and Tom are fresh off the plane from a business conference in Brussels. They’re headed straight back to work at communications company SITA.

who? Caron Bond Flying in From London here For ...

Adopted Londoner Caron has popped home to Dublin for a weekend visit.

She’s looking forward to a spot of shopping in the Dundrum Town Centre.

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AUGUST 2013

who? The Russell Family Flying in From London here For ... The Russells are over from London and can’t wait to don their gladrags for a weekend wedding.

who? Brian Dean and Sarah Lasseter Flying in From Georgia here For ...

Brian and Sarah are on their first holiday to Ireland to visit relatives. First stop is Newgrange and then on to Dingle to meet the family.

Paul Costelloe

Klickity Yvonne Ryan

LOVE IRISH DESIGN Jennifer Rothwell

Dublin’s landmark department store and has been proudly, supporting, promoting and nurturing Irish Design since its opening in 1843.

Today you can look, feel and touch the work of over 60 talented Irish designers in fashion, beauty, home and giftware – alongside leading International names, all under one elegant roof.

Shop online www.arnotts.ie

Arnotts, 12 Henry St, Dublin 1 / 01 805 04400

Like us on Facebook Arnotts Department Store

Follow us on Twitter @arnottsdublin

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie n

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Find out what’s on, where and when in August

Taking the plunge Anyone afraid of heights should look away now: The crème de la crème of the world’s high divers are leaping off vertiginous rock faces all summer in a bid to win the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series 2013. Round five is being held in Boston, Massachusetts on August 24 for the third year running – a place not known for its cliffs, however, it does have the Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA); a jutting building from which adrenaline junkies will throw themselves into the harbour some 80ft below.

Spectators looking for vicarious thrills can plonk themselves on Fan Pier or watch open-mouthed from the ICA Grandstand at this free, family friendly event. (redbullcliffdiving.com)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROMINA AMATO/RED BULL CONTENT POOL

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BOSTON DAILY AND FROM SHANNON ON MON, WED, FRI AND SUN.

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DiARy

Hipsters and makers The humble ukulele has in recent times become an emblem of hipsterdom, so we expect this month’s ukulele Hooley in Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, to be awash with whiskered, possibly waistcoated gents, and tea dress

attired ladies feverish with finger-picking excitement.

Held in the harbour town on August 24-25, the programme boasts a guest performance from Janet Klein, left, a free, eight-hour concert in People’s Park and a Uke Busk Bus tour (ukulelehooley.com). Also attracting a dapper crowd will be the annual Kilkenny Arts Festival, August 9-18, whose exhibit Costume: Future Fashion, explores innovation in textile technology and design, and includes sculptural works by Úna Burke and Ana Rajcevic.

Other highlights at the festival include performances from Neil Hannon, Malian musicians Bassekou Kouyate and Ngoni Ba, and a raft of children’s activities (kilkennyarts.ie).

MuSiC

Earning their strypes

A fast-growing live following is making stars out of The Strypes. Lucy White has a word with the Irish quartet.

“Rhythm and blues, fast and furious, with 1960s beat-boom and 1970s pub-rock influences, such as Dr Feelgood, The Yardbirds, Chuck Berry and Dave Edmunds.” Drummer Evan Walsh is paraphrasing The Strypes’ sound that has already impressed Dave Grohl, Elton John and Noel Gallagher – before even releasing an album. Rather, it’s the Cavan band’s live prowess that has created the buzz ahead of next month’s debut LP. “The gigs have gone down so well that we don’t feel too daunted about the album, we’re just really happy with how it has turned out,” admits lead vocalist Josh McClorey. That the quartet’s average age is just 15 years old is, frankly, nothing short of remarkable. thestrypes.com

STAy

4 best boat hotels We’re on the waterfront with ‘boatels’ for all budgets …

Eastern / Western Comfort

Mühlenstr. 73, Berlin Budget travellers can board the good ships Eastern Comfort and Western Comfort, docked on the River Spree. The former dusted down its portholes in 2005 to welcome backpackers with a variety of accommodation (and a snack deck), from a tent on deck (€12) to a first class double en-suite room (€78).

The latter has single to triple cabins (from €42) with shared bathrooms. +49 30 6676 3806. eastern-comfort.com

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AUGUST 2013

Hotel CPH Living

1C Langebrogade, Copenhagen Moored within 12 “metro minutes” of Christianhaven, Hotel CPH Living is the very epitome of Danish design, but with a maritime twist. The entire fourth wall of each stylish ensuite room is a window offering panoramic views of the water, and there’s under-floor heating, Wi-Fi and access to a shared residents-only sundeck. Double rooms from KK1,000, including breakfast. +45 6160 8546; cphliving.com

Yellow Submarine Hotel

Albert Dock, Liverpool As its name suggests, this is a reconfigured submarine that sleeps up to eight ardent Beatles fans. Bedecked with 1960s paraphernalia, from Beatles gold discs to an actual scooter used in the film Quadrophenia, the sub has a full kitchen, 3D TV with Sky, a DVD and free Wi-Fi, and if the Austin Powers vibe gets too much there’s always The Cavern Club, Penny Lane … From £385. +44 7885 295 413; yellowsubliverpool.co.uk

SS Yankee

Red Hook, Brooklyn Recently uprooted from Hoboken, New Jersey, this passenger ferry dating back to 1907 is now moored in über-hip Brooklyn. Impossibly romantic (and bohemian; bathrooms are shared), the Yankee is festooned with objets d’art across its salon, galley and five guestrooms ranging from the single Cabin Boy to the private Crew Quarters that sleep up to seven guests. Rooms from $267 per night. +1 646 481 0490; ssyankee.com

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Ice, ice baby Nancy Rockett keeps her cool with the best gelato hotspots.

They say the best things come to those who wait, and last month, from Donegal to Dubrovnik, summer finally arrived. If you find yourself having hot flushes in Copenhagen this month, rent a bike out to Amager island and take a pit stop at Ismageriet, one of the city’s best-known ice cream parlours (Kongelundsvej 116, +45 606 010 40; ismageriet.dk).

Pulling out all the retro stops – its bijou premises dates back to the

1930s, and they have ice cream vans – Ismageriet uses only organic milk. So it’s healthy. Sort of.

In Ireland’s Co Kerry, Murphy’s (Strand Street, Dingle, 066 915 2644; murphysicecream.ie) tagline “Ice cream that knows where it’s coming from” means business. Its milk sourced from native cows, and with artisanal ingredients including Dingle sea salt and Irish brown bread, Murphy’s founders – siblings Kieran and Sean – have turned a local business into a national treasure.

And no gelato love-in would be complete without an Italian recommendation. If you’re in Venice for the Biennale, make a beeline for La Mela Verde (Fondamenta de l’Osmarin, +39 349 195 7924). Whether plumping for its signature green apple flavour, or pistachio or lime sherbet, you’ll be suitably impressed. And its canal-side vista sure ain’t bad either.

3 best ...

FOOD

Picnic picks by Sive O’Brien.

LunCh SET €17.60 at Paperchase

PICnIC hAMPEr €55.65 at cotswoldtrading.co.uk

FLASK Orla Kiely, €23.35 at orlakiely.com

What’s cooking in Belfast?

Eoin Higgins gets the low-down on Northern Ireland’s best seasonal eats from chef Stephen Toman of OX restaurant ...

“Fishwise, in August, you can still get hold of Kilkeel mackerel as well as local herring, brill and turbot.

Fresh and gently cooked, these can make a fantastic delicate garnish to your delicious summer salads.”

“It’s summertime, so the fruit and vegetables available on our doorstep have changed – the delicate courgette flower comes into season, for instance. Also at their best are fennel, kale, and cavolo nero, a dark cabbage I enjoy working with.”

“There are still some great strawberries available too, although they tend

to tail off slightly in August followed by a short burst again in September. The wonderful broad bean is at its height as well as Ailsa Craig tomatoes, aptly named after Ailsa island that can be seen on your way to Scotland.

Electro tomatoes are also in season.”

“We get some cracking beetroot and blackberries from Newtownards, and garlic from Loughgall, Armagh. They’re all bursting with flavour and really versatile so you’re guaranteed to see most of them on the menus in Belfast over the month.”

“For foodie browsers, St George’s Market, open all weekend, is a great place to nose around and sample local produce. In OX we use Abernethy butter and Broighter Gold rapeseed oil, both fantastic local products that started as small homegrown ideas and are now supplying a number of restaurants. If you’re here for a weekend you should definitely head for a browse.” oxbelfast.com

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CULtURE

Arresting Danish dance

ANA SANDAS IN Love songs / BjARkE ØRSTED

From August 5-11, Copenhagen’s Police Headquarters is hosting Scandinavia’s biggest open-air event.

Danish Dance Theatre returns with Summer Dance, an atmospheric showcase of excerpts of their most successful works, plus performances from international dance stars including Sweden’s Örjan Andersson, Poland’s Jacek Przybylowicz and Israel’s Idan Sharabi.

The Politigården, or “police yard”, was designed by architect Hack Kempmann in the early 1920s – and is a familiar sight on the TV series The Killing. This month though it serves as an evocative backdrop to Denmark’s largest contemporary dance company spearheaded

by British choreographer Tim Rushton MBE. General admission is free but to guarantee a seat, tickets cost DKK60. danskdanseteater.dk AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO COPENHAGEN DAILY EXCEPT SAT.

FOOD

Seeing red It’s bad manners to play with your food – but not at La Tomatina, Spain’s tomato-pelting festival. Lucy White takes cover.

What’s it all about? In the Valencian town of Buñol in around 1945, a brawl broke out during a parade. In the absence of weapons, vegetables were thrown.

Nearly 70 years on, the humble tomato has become the weapon of choice in a tightly controlled annual food fight. Some 150,000, overripe tomatoes are specially grown for the event.

Highlights? All of it, if you like that sort of thing, although, contestants’ attempts to climb the palo jamón – or

greasy pole, topped with a piece of ham – is pretty darn funny. Whoever gets to the top signals the start of the tomatopalooza.

What’s the damage?

Surprisingly little. Due to the acidic content of tomatoes, the streets are left squeaky clean, while shop fronts are protected with plastic sheeting. Meanwhile, a helmet should spare anyone a cauliflower ear …

When’s it happening?

August 28, when up to 40,000 revellers are expected to descend on the otherwise sleepy town. And this year, for the very first time, there’ll be a €10 admission tax to join in the fruity fun. For more info visit latomatina. info.

COCOA LOCO Chocoholics visiting Dublin should check out Butlers Chocolate Experience, a 90-minute factory tour of the chocolatier’s premises in Clonshaugh.

Making sweet treats since 1932, Butlers is currently knocking 10 per cent off the admission price for online bookings. butlerschocolates.com DIARY

The bard on Broadway Lock up your womenfolk: Orlando Bloom plays the eponymous lover in Romeo and Juliet at New York’s Richard Rodgers Theatre.

Yes, fresh from filming scenes for the next Hobbit film, the British heartthrob actor is swapping Elvish for rhyming couplets in Shakespeare’s iconic tragedy, which returns to Broadway for the first time in 36 years. It also marks Bloom’s theatre debut, acting opposite Tony Award nominated thesp Condola Rashad and under the seasoned directorship of David Leveaux. Previews from August 24. romeoandjulietbroadway.com AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NEW YORK DAILY AND FROM SHANNON ON TUE, THUR AND SAT.

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AUGUST 2013

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fOOD

Keep on truckin’

Visitors to Orlando might forget, amidst theme park frolics, that the city also boasts a vibrant food truck scene. As with all eateries, some are better than others, Eoin Higgins recommends his top pit-stops.

OPERA

Getting some fresh aria Cheffy comfort food is the order of the day at 5Gastronomy (@ 5gastronomy), a slick looking truck that traverses the highways and byways of Central Florida serving up delicious seasonal dishes day and night. Their “perfect burger”, above, 48hr braised pork tacos, and weekly special business lunches are worth joining the often lengthy queue.

Specialising is one way to build a strong fanbase and C&S Brisket Bus (@ CSBrisketBus) have so excelled in their meaty food focus that vegetarians have been known to faint at the sight of this popular van hurtling by ... “The Special,” a massive sandwich containing C&S’s signature brisket, homemade bacon jam and grilled onions is the thing to go for here.

BEAUTY

Subtle tanning

By Liz Dwyer.

Add a few drops of GUERLAIN TERRACOTTA SUN SERUM into your face or body moisturiser to create a gradual tan, €50.

A shimmering dry hair and body oil, CLARINS SPLENDOURS SHIMMER BODY OIL is scented with tangerine, grapefruit and Tonka bean, with tiny gold particles to catch the light, €37.

Double whammy RIMMEL SUNSHIMMER INSTANT TAN + GRADUAL GLOW is an instant tan that also develops gradually if applied a few times a week, €8.95.

JAMES READ GRADUAL BODY TAN is a buttery body moisturiser with just the right ratio of self-tan to enhance rather than camouflage pale skin, €33.

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AUGUST 2013

Most Orlando truckies have a soft spot for the purdy, tasty treats at Yum Yum Cupcake Truck (@ yumyumtruck_fl) and it’s easy to see why – 1950s’ style, a slick Rat Pack soundtrack, and a creative cupcake menu that has enough variety to enthrall, and intrigue, even the most overworked sweet tooth.

In 1913 the Arena di Verona was unveiled; a vast amphitheatre purpose-built to showcase operatic performances. One hundred years on, it’s in rude health and hosting a Centennial Festival that includes two atmospheric 10pm performances from global superstar tenor, Placido Domingo, above. The singer will be joined by fellow soloists under the conductorship of Daniel Harding on August 15, and on August 20, performing with winners of the international Operalia competition he founded in 1993, with Daniel Oren taking over the baton. Tickets from €24. arena.it

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO ORLANDO TUE, THUR AND SAT.

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO VERONA ON TUE, THUR AND SAT.

, where accessories lf at Kildare Village se ur yo t ea Tr UP PUCKER st Irish store. Located ss has opened her fir ne in Gu lu Lu n ee qu ldare’s Chic Outlet blin airport in Co Ki Du m fro es etr om some 50 kil of 30 per cent or utique boasts savings Shopping hub, the bo revillage.com ps’ bags a steal. kilda ‘Li c ni ico r he g in ak more – m DIARY

Happy days in Enniskillen From August 22-26, the Co Fermanagh town hosts Happy Days Enniskillen International Beckett festival, the world’s biggest showcase of Samuel Beckett’s works from Ireland and abroad. Among the 17 Irish and UK premieres and 13 world premieres includes a triptych of site-specific pieces inspired by one of Beckett’s favourite writers, Dante, taking place in a cave (Inferno), a boat on Lough Erne (Purgatorio), and on a plane (Paradiso). Other highlights include Neil Jordan’s multi-screen installation Not I, featuring actress Julianne Moore, right, and readings by Fiona Shaw, Juliet Stevenson and Winona Ryder – also the subject of a Robert Wilson video portrait, A Still Life is a Real Life. happy-days-enniskillen.com

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Wish you were here Dublin’s Ste Murray, left, sent us this striking shot of a train platform on Munich’s underground.

He says: “I lived in Stuttgart a couple of years ago, which is a great base if you want to travel around Europe. I made a weekend trip to Munich, whose underground stations have each been decorated differently.

I found one that was quite dramatic, set up my shot, and waited for the moment when two trains would pass in opposite directions. I like how the movement of both trains slowing down adds action to the shot, which is otherwise quite static and balanced.”

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO MUNIch DAILY AND FROM CORK ON TUE, THUR AND SAT.

Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the October/ November issue.

The technicals Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot.

The editor’s decision is final.

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AUGUST 2013

AUGUST 2013

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Check in neCKLACe €131.60 at jcrew.com

VeGAn LeAtHer CLutCH €150 at corallei.com

BIBI 2 LACe Dress €269 at franandjane.com

What’s in my

suitcase

JerseY Dress €325 at roisinlinnane.com

BIKInI top €283; matching briefs, €228; both Norma Kamali at net-a-porter.com

When Clodagh McKenna isn’t travelling to New York to film her much-talked-about US food series or hold pop-up restaurants in The Whitney Museum, you’ll find her in one of her Clodagh’s Kitchen restaurants – the most recent having opened in Blackrock – or working on a new cookbook. Sive O’Brien takes a peek inside her travel bag.

AUGUST 2013

KInDLe from €92 at amazon.co.uk

snAKesKIn BAG Pauric Sweeney, €2,090 at Brown Thomas, as left

pAnAMA HAt €110 at panamahats.co.uk

Mp3 MInI speAKer €44.95 at musicangel.eu

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tHerMAL wAter La Roche-Posay, €9 at pharmacies nationwide

BeACH tOweL Hermès, €410 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2

eXpress FLOwer GeL FACe MAsK Sisley, €89 at House of Fraser sAnDALs Kat Maconie, €145 at cocobelledesigns.com

sunGLAsses Cutler and Gross, €330 at net-a-porter.com

GOLD LAYLA HeADpHOnes Frends, €160 at avenue32.com

KildareVillage.com 7 For All Mankind • Anya Hindmarch • Brooks Brothers • Cath Kidston • Coast • Furla • Hackett • Hobbs • Hugo Boss Jack Wills • L.K.Bennett • Louise Kennedy • Jaeger • Pandora • Superdry • Thomas Pink and many more

07/13

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Smart Traveller|

Doing business in Lisbon or lunching in Geneva?

Lisa Hughes selects the best spots.

LittLe BLack Book LISBON

5

The owner of Seagreen designer fashion boutiques in Dublin, Sarah Gill, travels at least once a month during the buying seasons. Her favourite city to do business in is colourful Lisbon.

Best place for business lunch …

Bica Do Sapato (Avenida Infante Dom Henrique Armazém B, +351 218 810 320; bicadosapato. com) is a trendy eatery along the riverside, opposite Santa Apolónia and looking out over the river. It serves fabulous Portuguese food.

Try the amazing cod in maize-bread crust.

Best for business drinks … I tend to meet clients at shows but, for a relaxing drink afterwards, I recommend the bar at the Avenida Palace Hotel (Rua 1 de Dezembro, +351 213 218 100; hotelavenidapalace. pt). It is easy to unwind in its comfortable surroundings after a long day of meetings.

The service is exemplary and the selection of wine is second to none.

Best business hotel … I love travelling and researching interesting hotels, so I try to avoid bigger business hotels and find something more personal. When last in Lisbon I stayed in the Solar de Castelo (Rua das Cozinhas 2, +351 218 806 050; solardocastelo.com), which is set in the former kitchens of St George’s Castle and is a charming mix of old and new. Plus, you can get some work done in the quaint garden courtyard.

Business lunch …

For coffee and a nibble, there is a wonderful patisserie on Praça da Figueira called Confeitaria Nacional (+351 213 424 470; confeitarianacional. com). It dates back to 1829 and has a mirrored ceiling, wooden staircase and a marble counter. It sells amazing cakes, jams and pastries, including the famous pastéis de nata custard tarts.

Moneysaver … Do your research and book early if you can. I find Tablet Hotels (tablethotels.com) great for hotels at all price ranges. And, if I make some savings on my trip, I might afford a little shopping, which I like to call “research”!

Apps … I am a devoted iPhone fan for the app choice and usability alone. Essential business travel ones include: Aer Lingus for booking and checking in; AccuWeather (important for wardrobe choices); TripAdvisor for restaurant research and Bank of Ireland online for any credit card emergencies.

Time saving tip … I always travel with a carry-on case to ensure a speedy transfer.

Online check-in and seat selection is also a must. I make sure I have all my chargers close to hand throughout the day to ensure no technical blackouts.

Must-have travel gadget Logitech FabricSkin Keyboard Folio for iPad

Funky and functional, the Logitech FabricSkin keyboard Folio has a Bluetooth keyboard with full-size keys.

Hidden magnets hold your iPad in place, and it comes in a range of colours and finishes. €149.99 in Harvey Norman stores, and at logitech.com.

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business lunches in Geneva

IL LAGO As can be expected from a Four Seasons Hotel restaurant, Il Lago, above, is an opulent affair if you want to pull out all the stops for a client. A business traveller favourite, it serves Swiss/French cuisine in a stunning Old European-style dining room, or you can get a table outside overlooking Lake Geneva. (33 Quai des Bergues, +41 22 908 7000; fourseasons.com) BAYVIEW Located on the ground floor of the five-star President Wilson Hotel, the Bayview has Michelin-starred chef Michel Roth at the helm. Offering fine French cuisine with impeccable presentation, it also boasts superb views of Lake Geneva. Expect fivestar prices too. (47 Quai Wilson, +41 22 906 6552; hotelpwilson.com) CAFÉ DES BANQUES A favourite among Geneva’s fashionable crowd as well as business folk, Café des Banques offers Italian dishes in a sophisticated setting.

If it gets too busy, there is also a separate lounge for more private business lunches. (6 Rue de Hesse, +41 22 311 4498; cafedesbanques.com) LA BROCHE This lunch hotspot is a conveniently located restaurant that can handle large groups, has quick service, classy decor and a terrace to dine outside in the summer.

(36 Rue du Stand, +41 22 321 2260; restaurantlabroche.ch) BÓREAL CAFÉ Considered by many to serve the best espresso in Geneva, this non-chain coffee house (with free Wi-Fi) is perfect for a casual lunch meeting. Sit outside or relax on a comfy couch and tuck into fresh bagels and pastries. (60 Rue du Stand, +41 22 310 6960; borealcoffee.ch)

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Shelf Life|

Bridget Hourican gets a snapshot of Irish photography and checks out new travel non-fiction.

Who’s reading what?

LINDA BROWNLEE, GRAHAM, FROM THE SERIES ACHILL, 2010

Author Selina Guinness on who and what inspires her.

WHICH MEMOIRS INSPIRED YOUR OWN? I consulted Martin Amis’s bitterly funny Experience, for lessons in dialogue, and John Lanchester’s Family Romance for the care and restraint of his revelations. My favourite memoir is Karl Ove Knausgaard’s epic, My Struggle; the second volume has just been translated from Norwegian as A Man in Love.

YOU LIVE JUST OUTSIDE DUBLIN. WHERE’S YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE IN IRELAND? I don’t have to go far – the Military Road, across the Dublin mountains to Sally Gap and Lough Tay, just for the wild light on the Coronation Plantation. Otherwise it’s Barley Cove beach in west Cork.

WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON NOW? I have the germ of a novel that starts on a Argentine-Irish diaspora, and beach. It’s about rearing the children of others Paul Gaffney spent a and will be set in Budapest and Ireland. year walking through WORD UP YOU’RE READING AT THIS YEAR’S Spain, Portugal and Calling all fledgling MOUNTAINS TO SEA FESTIVAL. southern France. wordsmiths! Young writers WHICH WRITERS ARE YOU LOOKING Conceived as can avail of free readings, FORWARD TO SEEING? Colum a travelling workshops and activities at the McCann, also Raja Shehadeh, who used exhibition across Carrick on Shannon Children’s to walk the hills around Ramallah, before Dublin, Cork Literary Festival (August 16-18), they were lost to Israeli settlements and Limerick, which encourages children – I want to hear him speak about land. it will move on to engage with the arts; Debut Irish authors Ciarán Collins and to Paris Photo in leitrimarts.ie Susan Stairs are reading with the comic November. The book novelist Kevin Maher. That sounds fun.

A SENSE OF PLACE A project by PhotoIreland, entitled New Irish Works (PhotoIreland, Castle Print Galway, €24) brings together 25 photographers – Irish, or living in Ireland – and the results are diverse. Many artists responded to a place: Linda Brownlee spent two years working with local teenagers in “the raw and unpredictable landscape” of Achill Island; Dublin-based Croatian photographer Dragana Jurisic looks at “the lost country – Yugoslavia”; Kevin Griffin goes to Omey Island, a one-square mile tidal island, which today has just one resident; Maurice Gunning explores the

can be purchased from the National Photographic Archive, selected bookstores and at photoireland.org.

Selina Guinness’s memoir, A Crocodile by the Door, is published by Penguin. Mountains to Sea dlr Book Festival runs September 3-8; mountainstosea.ie

New travel reads ...

Alone in Antarctica

by Felicity Aston (Summersdale, £8.99) out August 5. Only three people have crossed Antarctica alone. The first two were Norwegian men; the third is Felicity Aston, a 34-year-old Briton, in a race to reach the coast before the last flight out. It’s an astonishing personal endurance tale.

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AUGUST 2013

Migration Hotspots by Tim Harris (Bloomsbury, £25), out August 15.

Sometimes geography and climate combine to funnel migrant birds into narrow “migration hotspots” – where, for a few days each year, birds are everywhere. Tim Harris travelled from Mexico to China to photograph and study these stunning “avian flyways”.

The Last Train to Zona Verde by Paul Theroux (Hamish Hamilton, £20).

In the 72-year-old author’s swansong to Africa, where he has lived and travelled for 50 years, Theroux sets out from the luxury and squalor of Cape Town, travels through Namibia and Botswana, to the dystopia of Angola. A fine pensive work on Africa and travel.

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On my travels

The Irish designer and couturier Peter O’Brien talks Paris and fashion with Sive O’Brien.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARRY M c CALL

The celebrated designer has an impressive CV, cutting his teeth at the houses of Givenchy, Chloé, Dior and Rochas in Paris before launching his own eponymous label in his native Ireland. O’Brien is also in hot demand as a costumier, creating looks for Dublin’s foremost theatres including The Abbey, The Gate and Hatch Theatre Company. His latest triumph is a fourth collection for the Irish department store Arnotts, an exercise in precision-cut tailoring and luxe, forever pieces. grew up in … Dublin, and holidays as a child consisted of trips to the seaside: Rush and Killiney in Co Dublin, and Brittas Bay in Co Wicklow.

The best holidays ever … were in Mykonos during the 1970s.

There were no direct flights and the airport was basically a shed.

It seemed impossibly glamorous, with all-night beach parties, cocktails, and wobbly legs from the boat back from the beach while watching Cecil B DeMilletype sunsets.

My first visits to … London, Paris, New York and Hong Kong were life changing. Seeing the Pont Alexandre Trois glistening in the sunlight was pretty impressive for an 18-year-old boy from Dublin. Ten years later, on my first week with Dior, I

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found myself on that very bridge shooting gowns for a magazine, thinking I had died and gone to heaven and starring in a remake of Funny Face!

I’ll never forget … being locked in a Taipei radio station overnight. I was there to do an interview when the building was suddenly surrounded by police as criminals had escaped a prison bus.

I have lived in … London, New York and Paris. In an ideal world I’d have a place in all three (and a pied-à-terre in Dublin overlooking the sea), but if I had to choose, London would win every time for its theatres, bookshops, galleries and museums. London can be any city you want it to be.

The best times in Paris were … spent in the atelier with

Madame Therese, Madame Georgette and all the brilliant couturieres who made my designs. We used to stay up late surrounded by bolts of silk and satin, Johnny Hallyday blaring out from an ancient wireless.

I love … how Parisian women dress in a quiet, invisible sort of way. It’s almost impossible to sell a cocktail or occasion frock in Paris, whereas in Ireland it’s a serious business. It says everything about our different attitudes to dressing – one is not better or worse, just different.

I’m at my happiest in ... bookshops: Paris’s Galignani; London’s Henry Pordes and Heywood Hill; New York’s Rizzoli and Strand.

The funniest thing that happened while travelling … was when a burly Portuguese

3 best haute hotels

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Christian Lacroix may no longer be at the helm of his own atelier but he has conquered the Parisian hotel market. Hotel Le Notre Dame (hotelnotredameparis. com), left, is his third venture, and a theatrical trompe l’oeil of colour, textures and fine art masterpiece mash-ups. Rooms from €139 per night.

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Staff uniforms don’t come much more handsome than at the Armani Hotel Milano (armanihotels.com), whose sleek apparel reflects the clean lines and a muted palette of the decor. Seriously cool, and just a five-minutewalk from Milan’s Duomo.

Rooms from €495.

customs man instructed me to open my bag and I was engulfed in an explosion of nude chiffon – an evening dress from my Paris days to show silk manufacturers.

I’m sure to this day he believes he unveiled a highly unlikely, bearded drag queen.

The western world has become … so homogenised, that for interesting cultures you have to look further afield. Japan is utterly fascinating. I love that kimonos are often more lavish and beautiful on the inside than the outside, just for the wearer – the polar opposite to our designer handbag culture.

My next trip is … in the south of France. I’m working on costumes for the upcoming The Price of Desire, a period film about Eileen Gray in her famous house in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin.

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A Diesel enterprise – its CEO Renzo Rosso occupies the entire top floor – The Pelican (pelicanhotel.com) is in the heart of South Beach, Florida.

Belying its Art Deco facade, rooms are more kitsch than a cocktail umbrella, each one individually designed. Rooms from $175.

• Open 7 days a week, all year round • Guided tours • Tutored tasting • Gift Shop • Café GLaSSES up To DrInkInG rESponSIBLy

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Horsing around

Ireland’s affinity with the horse is clear to see at its many and diverse equine events.

Jonny Beardsall namechecks but a few. love any job that takes me to Ireland,” says Mike EtheringtonSmith, the multiOlympic and World Championship course designer who caused the thrills and a few spills at Camphire Horse Trials in Co Waterford last month. “I’ve been coming to Camphire for the past two years. I get royally treated, staying in a fine pile on the estate.

It’s usually raining but hey, it’s fun being around so many people with horses in their DNA.” In Ireland’s west, the Galway Festival (galwayraces.com) rivals Mardi Gras. Running until August 4, the sensational seven-day marathon demands more stamina from race-goers than from fourmile steeplechasers. Pace yourself if you intend to race every day.

With 250,000 people in attendance throughout the week, the town has a buzz at night, with plenty of hangovers the next morning. This year, prize money for the 49 races tops €2 million, the feature race being the prestigious Galway Plate.

First held in 1864, the Discover Ireland Dublin Horse Show from August 7-11 (dublinhorseshow.com) is another spectacular that horse aficionados the world over should

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see at least once in their lifetime.

A celebration of the country’s love of all things horsey, the Irish showcase and compete with their home-bred horses and ponies, promote them to a wider audience and parade their packs of foxhounds. There is much in store at the Ballsbridge showground. With the equine talent on display ranging from the best show hunters, mares and foals and native breeds such as the Connemara, to the cream of the international show jumping world, some 10,000 spectators will be itching for a ringside seat. The biggest names in show jumping will be in teams competing in the last leg of the eight Nations’ Cup series for the coveted Aga Khan Trophy.

Not surprisingly, it is another date in Etherington-Smith’s diary.

“I’ve judged the Young Event Horse class before – I’m dead keen to do so again but, there again, I’m not sure my liver can take it,” he quips.

About as far as you can get from the polished show grounds, pristine racecourses and manicured estates is the Fair of Muff (thefairofmuff.com). This traditional horse fair – which dates from the 17th century – has a special magic.

It is a glorious snapshot of the lives of Ireland’s Travelling community

Dressage for success – showjumper Ian Hannon with horse ‘She’s My Master’ at the Camphire Horse Trials.

who meet every year on August 12 at Kingscourt, near the village of Muff, Co Cavan.

A hugely riveting, one-day festival, it’s where Travellers camp – some still in traditional horse-drawn wagons – and attempt to buy and sell their piebald horses, ponies, donkeys and even the odd Lurcher dog. Should something on four legs take your fancy, men with sweatybrows will haggle, spit upon an open palm then shake your hand to seal a deal. If you like being around horses – and enjoy excessively exuberant singing, dancing and drinking – it is well worth an eye-opening visit.

There, hawkers sell food, saddlery and rustic knick-knacks. But have a long hard think before you buy a ticket for the raffle. The first prize is a pony, which, you should know, must be taken home on the day.

3 more equine events this month ...

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The Palio di Siena, auguST 16 Held twice a year, this unorthodox spectacle is steeped in Italian tradition and devil-may-care abandon. Racing in the colours of different districts in the Tuscan town, ten jockeys race bareback for three laps around the Piazza del Campo, one of Sienna’s historic squares. Not for the lilylivered. ilpalio.org

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The ebor FeSTival, auguST 21-24 The Knavesmere – a huge piece of green on the edge of York city in northern England – hosts the Nunthorpe, Yorkshire Oaks and Juddmonte International, which, last year, was won by Frankel, regarded as the bestrated thoroughbred in history. yorkracecourse.co.uk

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gloriouS goodwood, unTil auguST 3 Like Royal Ascot, this has a special vibe.

This five-day fixture in West Sussex includes the Sussex Stakes and Steward’s Cup. Held on the historic Goodwood Estate, it’s also home to the wildly-eccentric Goodwood Revival (September 13-15), an historic motorsport and aviation event. goodwood.co.uk

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Misfit Moves on Handsome, smart, successful – is there no end to Robert Sheehan’s talents? Tony Clayton-Lea catches up with the Irish actor before a new film franchise puts him in Hollywood’s spotlight.

elf-deprecating (“Do I watch movies? You mean apart from those that the artist Robert Sheehan is in?”), impressively well read (think Hermann Hesse mixed in with Isaac Asimov) and the owner of the most doted-upon pair of doe-eyes of recent times, it’s a safe bet to say that 25-year-old Irish actor Robert Sheehan is well on his way to becoming a global movie star.

The rise in profile has been gradual: three years ago, he struck silver with the Channel 4 sci-fi/ comedy series Misfits, which took him from a moderately successful career in television and low-budget movies into major heart-fluttering recognition

PhotoGRAPh by DesmonD muckiAn/contouR by Getty imAGes

S

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status in the UK. Then came Ireland’s turn. Around the same time, he starred in the first season of RTÉ’s galvanising (and polarising) crime drama Love/Hate; here, he played Darren, a (highly photogenic) low-life criminal returning to Dublin from temporary hiatus in Spain. Across three seasons, Sheehan portrayed Darren as something of a lovelorn lost soul, a conflicted man with a shaky moral compass looking for a way out of the mess he was slowly drowning in. As each subsequent water-cooler season rolled out, Sheehan soon became one of the most recognised actors in the country.

Added to these, however, is an intuitive knack of mixing it up – you get the distinct impression that

Sheehan doesn’t like to linger in any one role too long. “Oh, God, yeah, varying it up is a priority, and more than anything else it staves off boredom. I get itchy feet quite easily about things, and after a while, if I feel I’ve reached the natural end of a particular piece of work or a character – if you feel you can’t squeeze any more juice out of it – then it’s probably best to move on than to involve the character in stories that are almost contrivances or rehashes of previous work.”

Sheehan cites Misfits as an example of this. “I did it for about two years, two seasons, and each season took about four months to film. By the end of that, I’d had a great time; all the people involved

AUGUST 2013

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IntervIew

were a lovely family unit, but I knew I had to move on. One of the main luxuries of being an actor is that you get to explore different avenues of expression all of the time, and I want to keep it that way forever.”

He has packed in a lot of work very quickly – he started acting semi-seriously when he was 14, back in his hometown of Portlaoise.

He admits that as a child, he was something of a show-off. “I had done a couple of theatre things in the town, so I knew I had a desire to be onstage. I remember when I was a kid, I’d ask my mum ‘can I be in ads on the telly?’, and she would say, ‘well, you know, we’ll enrol you in it’ – whatever that meant!” It wasn’t long before Sheehan’s pestering paid off. While watching a youth-oriented Irish television show, his mother noticed an open call audition for the Irish film, Song for a Raggy Boy. He got the small part, and since then – a brief stint in college notwithstanding – Sheehan has been working. Small parts in low-budget movies (features and shorts) opened doors to larger roles in American, Australian, Canadian and Irish television productions.

Was the learning curve steep or gradual for the teenage Sheehan? A

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Below, specs appeal – Sheehan in The Mortal Instruments: City of Bones, with Jemima West, left, and Lily Collins, right.

spot of lip-pursing pondering ensues.

“There was a weird time when I was 16,” he starts slowly, “when I did a television show in Galway [Australian sci-fi series, Foreign Exchange]. The show was fine, it was a nice, big ensemble cast – we were all friends and we helped each other out. But directly after that, I went to Vancouver for about five months, on my own. The shift from doing a smallish show in Galway to being on a larger budget television show [Young Blades] in Canada was a serious baptism of fire. I felt that I had graduated to a bigger league, and that it was, perhaps, too quick a transferral.” The pondering continues.

He repeats that this was an odd time for him. “I was at a very tender age in my life, living in a suburban house in what I thought was the middle of nowhere, working in a studio, being tutored for a few hours a day. The whole thing struck me as strange and kind of scary. I struggled a bit, to be honest, but I think my innate showoffness dragged me through it.”

Sheehan is an interesting guy; he looks the part, for certain (the day we meet he’s wearing a snow-white, blouson-type top and a ridiculously expensive-looking pair of crushedvelvet purple shoes – it’s all very

d’Artagnan-esque and casual). He is polite to a fault, too, engages with the conversation smartly, diligently, and makes me feel included in his world for the brief time we’re together in the same room. Nothing feels forced, which makes sense when you consider that Sheehan’s acting style is very much informal and untutored.

“I didn’t find that to be a necessity,” he admits. “I’ve known actors to come out of drama school and they have to struggle to forget what they’ve been taught. I’ve never been to drama school, but I know some people put such gravitas on acting; they talk about it all day, and when they get around to doing it they put far too much meaning on every tiny movement. After years in drama school they forget how to just be natural.”

For Sheehan, instinct is often so much better than intellect. “Instinct has to come first, for sure. If you try and emote, then of course your instinct is going to take over. I’m more of the school of thought that believes acting is reacting, and you should feel it more than you should craft it. Instinct cannot be all of the performance, but you refine and improve, hopefully, as you go along, and that’s where craft comes in.”

The combination has, so far, suited Sheehan very well, and it looks set to continue with his latest movie, The Mortal Instruments: City of Bones. Now officially a franchise (filming of the follow-up, City of Ashes, starts in September), Sheehan has a substantial role in the movies, despite never having heard of the series of adventure/fantasy books by Cassandra Clare.

“I read the script, and absolutely loved it – honestly, truly, I’m not just saying that. It’s a shining example of a great big characterdriven adventure piece, and that’s why I went for it. I didn’t win everyone round to begin with – on a film like this you’ve got producers, writers and the director (Harald Zwart) all making decisions on casting. I didn’t win the director round for a while but I continually badgered him into doing a small

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INTERVIEw

Robert Sheehan’s favourite ...

MUSIC “There’s a band called Alt-J, from Leeds, and I’m constantly listening to their latest album, Awesome Wave. It won the Mercury Music Prize last year, and deservedly so. I tend to kill songs by overlistening to them, and there’s one song at the moment that I’m into – Ms Mr Hurricane (Chvrches Remix).

Chvrches are a Scottish electro-pop outfit, and they’ve remixed Hurricane,

by New York duo Ms Mr. It’s a bit like the Daft Punk song, Get Lucky, but it’s happier, sunnier, sun-drenched, even.

Irish music? I met Paul Brady recently, and I’ve been listening to his 1970s folk, acoustic stuff. And Luke Kelly is always a favourite.”

BOOKS “I was in Italy recently, and I had a bit of time off, so whenever I have a reasonably substantial period of time to myself I get into a good

screen test in Toronto.” Sheehan smiles at the memory. “After that it was all good. The parts you really, really want are the ones you have to pester for. That was another learning-curve aspect for me – not taking no for an answer is something you have to engage with and then attack. There are a lot of minds and people collaborating on a movie such as this, and there seems to be great belief in it.”

There is little doubt that The Mortal Instruments franchise will catapult Sheehan into leading role status (his character in the second film is transformed from human to vampire – go, Twilight, go!).

First the UK. Then Ireland. Now the world. Not bad for a lad from Portlaoise, is it? He shrugs off the question with good humour.

“You have to be sure about your own relationship with certain levels of fame,” he contends, “and the recognition that comes with it. Sometimes, frankly, it can feel unnecessary to be constantly interrupted in public, but how you react can depend on your mood on any given day. But I’ll say this: 34 |

AUGUST 2013

dose of reading. I got my hands on, believe it or not, a science fiction work from the 1950s, The Foundation Trilogy, by Isaac Asimov. It’s an amazing piece of work and it jostled me into another way of thinking about everything. It’s complex but it’s weighing on my mind at the moment.

In a good way!”

MOVIES “Oh, I love movies! I recently saw The Iceman, which stars Michael Shannon. Frankly, I’d watch anything with him in it. The movie is based on a true story and about a Polish-American guy in the 1970s who worked for the Mafia, and killed well over a hundred people. Shannon’s performance is incredible. I also watched Star Trek 2 recently – loved it, loved it, loved it. Just a very intelligent, sexy action movie. And brilliant acting, too – Chris Pine, who plays Captain Kirk, has got to

you can identify the well-meaning well-wisher – and that’s 99 per cent of the time – many miles way. And then it might be late at night in a pub, and sometimes the recognition can get a bit loud and garish – but that’s fine, too, because there’s no harm meant.”

He allows that the recognition factor is more intense in Dublin due to the countrywide success of Love/Hate.. “I’m a great believer in that you should let people into your world. Sometimes it’s inevitable you’re not going to engage, but I think you’d end up giving yourself a hernia if you don’t do that.” It helps, he hints, if you have instinctual radar to sift good vibes from the bad. “It’s beneficial to develop that. I’ve got mates who are very, very famous, and they withdraw into themselves because to go out amounts to something of a trial. It’s like repeated aversion therapy – after a while you feel the pain before it actually happens.”

be one of the best leading men out there.”

RESTAURANTS “Well, I live in London, so there’s no shortage … There’s a really nice Japanese place in Soho called Kyoto (26 Romilly Street, +44 207 734 7622); it’s reasonable and the portions are very generous. And there’s another great one called Marie’s Café (90 Lower Marsh, Waterloo, +44 207 928 1050), which, despite its name, is a terrific Thai place. Funnily enough, during the day they do grills – sausage, egg, chips, beans – and in the evening there’s Thai food, and it’s feckin’ amazing. Marie is actually Sue, a Thai lady, and her food is what kept me alive a couple of years ago when I was working in Playboy of the Western World at the Old Vic theatre.”

Sheehan as Darren in the hugely popular drama Love/Hate.

Smart, young, successful – and, yes, we’ll reluctantly allow that Robert Sheehan is also a handsome, dashing young blade. Does he pinch himself now and again with the knowledge that he is where he is without any apparent strategy or aforethought? “It’s lovely to see how things have changed for me over the past five-to-ten years,” he replies, allowing neither ego nor complacency to intrude. He carefully brushes away a piece of dust-dirt from his fancy shoes. “For example, when you’re walking into a movie of the size and scale of The Mortal Instruments, the logistics are dumbfounding, and yet you’re an inherent part of it. So yes, they’re surreal and hard to wrap your head around, but so incredibly enjoyable. I take great pleasure in doing new stuff, having new experiences.”

The Mortal Instruments: City of Bones is released in cinemas from August 21.

T

he only place in

Ireland where

Grace, Audrey and Marilyn meet a great cup of tea

On her 1961 visit to Ireland, Princess Grace wore a custom green Givenchy wool suit. This exquisite garment and her evening dress from the movie High Society, when she was still simply Grace Kelly, are on permanent display in the Gallery of Style Icons in our visitors centre in Newbridge, Co. Kildare. Accompanied by the dresses made famous by Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Diana Princess of Wales, Barbra Streisand and Tippi Hedren among a host of famous names it is the only permanent collection of its kind in the world.

Admission is free, seven days a week and any trip includes a chance to tour our extensive showroom and spend some time in our restaurant - almost as famous for its quality as our jewellery and homewares.

Come for the style. Stay for the cakes.

We look forward to seeing you here.

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PhotograPh by ray McManus / sPortsFILE

clash

of the ash

The Gathering gains further momentum in Galway next month at the world’s first Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival.

Ingmar Kiang meets the people behind the scenes and charts the sport’s growing global appeal. Portraits by Laurence McMahon.

Fast focus, Galway hurler Joe Canning at the Leinster GAA Hurling Senior Championship Final, Croke Park, Dublin.

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people

n 2005, a group of American troops returning from Iraq watched a televised hurling match while on a fuel-stop at Shannon Airport.

They were transfixed and inspired.

Encouraged by their commander, who saw the morale-boosting, teambuilding potential of the game’s mythology as a Celtic warrior sport, they established the Barley House Wolves upon returning home. The Wolves are the first American-born hurling club, and are now firmly established having won the North American Junior C Championship in 2012.

The Barley House Wolves are also one of 16 teams participating in the Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival next month, with other entrants being flown in from North America, Europe, Argentina, the Middle East and Australia. Initial group stages will take place in four locations around the county, before

PHoToGrAPH courTeSy oF concord MonITor

I

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players and supporters converge on Galway city for the exciting final matches. While the festival aims to attract both staunch and casual fans, it will also serve as the perfect introduction to the game for newcomers – for hurling is, if nothing else, spectacular to watch.

Indeed, the soldiers’ immediate attraction to the game is readily understood because, unlike some sports in which dour defensive tactics can yield positive results, hurling is an out-and-out, endto-end offensive battle. Once in possession of the ball – or sliotar – immediate attack is the only real option and scoreless draws are practically unheard of in the game.

The sport is also brutally fast – a well-struck sliotar will travel at 150 kph – and the now-mandatory helmets and face-guards are not worn for decorative purposes. Yet within this maelstrom of speed and physicality, deft ball control and shooting accuracy are vital.

Tanner Starmer of the Barley House Wolves gives flight to the sliotar during a championship game.

Therein lies much of the game’s appeal, for players, spectators – and soldiers – alike.

As the traditional home of hurling in the west of Ireland, Galway is the appropriate location for the festival. The sport is enjoying a revival in the county, as shown by last year’s demolition of the mighty Kilkenny en route to the All-Ireland Final, where Galway eventually lost to the same opponents having forced a replay.

The county’s success reflects that of hurling in general, as the game has endured and thrived through the decades despite pressures from more commercialised, professional sports.

Much of this durability can be ascribed to the policies of the sport’s governing body, the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA). The organisation first codified the rules of hurling in the 1880s (though the game’s origins date back centuries). It then set about establishing a vast network of volunteer-run clubs to popularise the sport – along with Gaelic football, handball and rounders. There are now few towns in Ireland without a GAA club, and the organisation’s membership has grown to over a million, making it the world’s largest amateur sporting body.

Generations of Irish emigrants have helped spread hurling internationally, most notably to the US. The game’s profile received a massive boost there last year when CNN ranked the All-Ireland Hurling Final in its list of “Ten Sporting Events You Have to See Live”, placing it second only to the Olympic Games as a spectacle.

The Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival promises to bring similar excitement and passion to Galway, with the added spice of international involvement, and hopes are already high that it will become a regular feature in the GAA sporting calendar.

The Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival takes place in Galway, September 18-21; see aerlingushurling.com for further details.

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John Hynes

CEO, Galway GAA As part of The Gathering 2013, the Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival will highlight the sheer size of the GAA, its work in the community and its role overseas. John Hynes quotes some impressive numbers.

“In Galway alone we have almost 28,000 members. Out of a global total of 2,550 affiliated clubs, the vast majority are of course in Ireland. But we now have 85 clubs in the UK, and over 300 around the rest of the world, with many formed during the past 20 years.”

The GAA has traditionally developed in a natural, organic manner based on people’s enthusiasm for Gaelic games in particular and Gaelic culture in general. This steady growth has been aided by the fact that there are no commercial imperatives at play.

John confirms: “While there have been calls for professionalism in the game, these have been rejected, and only last year the GAA formally re-endorsed its amateur status.

A few GAA officials take a salary, but the vast, vast majority of workers are volunteers, and players are reimbursed only their travel expenses – and nothing more.

“Other codes may have taken the professional route but those sports are not community-based.

There is a GAA club in just about every town in Ireland, and they’re all run on a voluntary basis. They are non-exclusive, open to all, and have become part of the fabric of the country. That is where our strength lies.”

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Carmel Grealy

Co-ordinator, Ballinasloe One of The Gathering’s aims is to strengthen family ties across continents and Carmel Grealy’s involvement with the festival is a prime example of this, in action. “Two nephews of mine, Tom and Liam Dolan, are coming over as members of the Chicago team. They’re part of the Dolan family, which for generations has done a lot to promote Gaelic sports in the Chicago area. Having them here really shows The Gathering at work – it’s a great opportunity to celebrate Irishness with relatives from across the water.”

In addition to her work as a registrar, Carmel is an active member of the town council and a former Mayor of Ballinasloe: her enthusiasm for the project is palpable. “Our town’s Irish name, Béal Átha na Sluaighe, means Mouth of the Ford of the Gathering, so it’s really appropriate that we’re involved – and it’s great for the local hospitality business. Hayden’s Hotel will extend the céad míle fáilte [hundred thousand welcomes] to hurlers representing Chicago and Australia, while teams from London clubs St Gabriel’s and Robert Emmett’s will stay at the Carlton Shearwater.

Of course, the festival isn’t just about hurling: there will be lots of other events including a sports day for kids, a local trade exhibition and a Gathering tug-of-war competition plus, of course, live music and dancing every night. We also have our year-round attractions such as coarse fishing, boating on lakes and rivers, and tours to the site of the bloodiest single conflict in Irish history – the Battle of Aughrim. We think visitors will have a fantastic time here.”

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people

Keith Spain

Co-ordinator, Loughrea Loughrea will hold the festival’s opening parade, with hurlers from all the different teams getting together for the first time. Keith Spain is looking forward to the occasion.

“We’re expecting a couple of thousand visitors, people meeting old friends and making new ones. It really is The Gathering in action ... so much tourism is directed towards the cities, the mountains and the coast – understandably enough – but The Gathering puts small towns like Loughrea on the map. You couldn’t put a value on it.”

As host to the European-Irish contingent, the town will be home to a hugely eclectic mix of hurlers who now live in Germany, France, Sweden, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Belgium and Luxembourg, along with others from Canada, the Middle East and Milwaukee ... Truly a testament to the spread of hurling worldwide. And although the festival is a friendly competition, Keith, a former player himself, anticipates some tough games. “I’ve no doubt these hurlers will be playing for keeps. I was an under-age player with Mullagh back in the day, and can understand the incentive of playing in an international final at Pearse Stadium in front of a crowd of thousands. Though unfortunately I won’t be donning a jersey this time around!”

Ollie Crowe

Co-ordinator, Galway West Unlike those being hosted elsewhere, many of the hurlers staying in Galway West will have few or no Irish connections. For the duration of the festival, the Galway Bay Hotel will be home to a team of non-Irish-Europeans and the Barley House Wolves, the club formed by American soldiers, as well as players from Buenos Aires and Denver.

Ollie Crowe aims to give his visitors a feel for the local history and culture. “We’ll be bringing them on tours to Connemara and Kylemore Abbey, and they will be guests at Trad on the Prom, an excellent [Irish dancing] show.”

The players will also get an idea of the importance of Galway hurling and its role in the everyday life of the county. “On arrival at the hotel, they will be greeted by a hundred or so young players, all kitted out

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in their team colours, before being shown around some of our local clubs. I’m chairman of Liam Mellows GAA Club, and we have over 700 members. Up the road, Salthill has over a thousand members.”

The festival finals will be held at Pearse Stadium, Salthill, which will also stage an under-age tournament at the adjacent Prairie grounds.

“It will feature eight teams of local youngsters, whittled down from an original 32, plus four specially selected teams representing the Aer Lingus hubs of Dublin, Shannon, Cork and Belfast.

“Later we’re finishing with a gala dinner for a thousand guests at the Bailey Allen Hall, and after that – a well-earned rest! All in all, the festival is a massive undertaking, but a great showcase for Galway and the sport of hurling.”

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people

Mary Hanniffy Walsh

Events Co-ordinator, Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival Galway was not alone in expressing an interest in staging the festival, as Mary Hanniffy Walsh explains.

“We were delighted when Galway was nominated as hosts for this festival. It’s quite an honour, as this will be the first event of its kind, and it has taken a lot of hard work from the GAA in Croke Park, Aer Lingus and Etihad Airways, to put it all together.”

With thousands of spectators expected to attend matches, the festival will help sustain tourism in the area as autumn approaches.

“Indeed – the hurling festival is preceded by horse racing at Ballybrit, then followed by the world-famous Galway Oyster

Festival, so it will help maintain focus on the region and extend the season.”

There are hopes too that the festival will be a springboard for future events. “Already, Ballinasloe, who are hosting the team from New York, have been invited to the States next year. And Kilburn Gaels, from London, are being accompanied by their juvenile teams – a party of about 50 children and their parents. They’re doing it off their own bat, at their own expense, and who knows what friendships and connections will be made as a result? One thing leads to another, and it’s all very positive.”

Austin McInerney South Galway is a stronghold of hurling: many members of the Galway county team hail from the area and its leading club, St Thomas’, are the current All-Ireland Senior Club Champions. Austin McInerney expects to see some quality hurling at the festival.

“We’re hosting contingents from America and the UK, namely San Francisco and New York, Kilburn Gaels from London and the Rest of Britain team. I wouldn’t like to pick a winner – everyone knows Kilburn are a very strong outfit but the Americans could surprise us. I think the games will be very competitive and hard-fought. These lads are taking it seriously and aren’t flying in just for the craic – though there’ll be plenty of that too.”

Austin also views the festival as an opportunity to best showcase Gort and its environs. “It’s a big deal for us, and we’ll be off to meet the teams at Shannon and Dublin – even if it is at six in the morning – to give them a proper welcome. Restaurants and bars will offer promotions and discounts, and there’ll be stuff for the kids, plus extra tour busses to bring people to the sea or down to the Burren. We’ve a lot to show here and everyone will be pitching in to present the region in its best light.”

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AUGUST 2013

Portraits by Laurence J McMahon, laurencejphotography.com With thanks to The Twelve Hotel, Barna, Co Galway; thetwelvehotel.ie

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adventure | Carlingford

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AUGUST 2013

Lough

life

For stupendous views of the Mourne Mountains from water, a newly created, crossborder canoe trail in Carlingford Lough is the way to go. Catherine Mack and her two sons take to kayaks to get the bigger picture.

The majestic Mourne Mountains at the edge of Carlingford Lough.

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adventure | Carlingford

t’s all about bribery with kids sometimes.

I wanted a couple of days’ hiking in the Mourne Mountains and, given that this is my ten- and 14-year-old boys’ idea of a holiday from hell, it always helps if there is the promise of a treat at the end of a trail ... Not so hard as the Mourne Mountains famously “sweep down to the sea”, and there was a clatter of canoes on the shore at Warrenpoint with our names on them, waiting to take us across Carlingford Lough after their dutiful hike up into the hills.

I

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Top, open wide – Warrenpoint town, at the mouth of Newry River and Carlingford Lough.

Above, writer Catherine Mack on a high.

Carlingford Lough has not been associated with fun and frolics on the water for many years, given that the border which divides Northern Ireland from the Republic of Ireland runs right through the middle of it. In fact, there was a Royal Navy gunship permanently moored in the lough as recently as 2005 but now, thankfully, this sort of peaceful paddling is about as calm a contrast to those past times of strife as one can imagine. Which is why the recently created South East Canoe Trail (canoeni.com), which runs from Strangford Village in Co Down for 93 kilometres along the coast of Co Down,

crossing the lough (and border) to follow the Co Louth shore and then finishing in Newry at the Carlingford Lough, is worthy of celebration.

We rather liked the idea of bobbing our way across the border so we decided to kayak from Warrenpoint to Carlingford in Co Louth and, thankfully, border politics were far from my boys’ minds as they took delight in shattering the peace the minute they sank into their kayaks, entering their own sibling battles of who can reach that rock first, splash the other the most and get Mum to capsize first. Luckily, John Keating from Life Adventure Centre (onegreatadventure.com), our instructor and guide for the

adventure | Carlingford

Stay at... the Mourne lodge A community-run hostel slap bang in the middle of the Mournes in the tiny village of Atticall. Great budget accommodation for hiking individuals, families or groups, with one of the best hostel breakfasts I have ever tasted. Rooms from £45 and bed in mixed dorm from £18 per night. (Bog Road, Atticall, Kilkeel, Co Down, +44 28 4176 5859; themournelodge.com themournelodge.com.) tory Bush Cottages It was worth arriving here at night, just to be able to wake up to watch the sun rise over the heather, moss and bog-covered Mourne valleys, as well as the piney peaks of nearby

Tollymore Forest Park.

The cottages are all built in the local “clachan” style, with whitewashed walls and slate roofs and have the best back garden ever: the Mournes themselves.

Two nights break from £141. (79 Tullyree Road, Bryansford, Newcastle, Co Down, + 44 28 4372 4348; torybush.com.)

Carlingford House Family-run bed and breakfast that welcomes muddy walkers and dripping wet kayakers into its elegant Georgian confines, where the affable Peter and Irene Finegan seem to know every local walk, cycle and expert guide if you want to hit the Cooley walking

trails. Rooms from £40 per person sharing including breakfast. (Carlingford, Co Louth, 042 937 3118; carlingfordhouse.com.)

Slieve donard Hotel Sweep off the mountains down to the sea and into four-star fabulousness at one of Northern Ireland’s institutions of fine hospitality. Going to the Slieve Donard was a treat when I was a child growing up here, and I am glad to say it still feels that way.

Rooms from £90. (Slieve Donard Resort & Spa, Downs Road, Newcastle, Co Down, +44 28 4372 1066, hastingshotels.com/ slieve-donard-resort-andspa.)

afternoon, was able to manage that fine line between fun and taking responsibility on the water.

He reminded us that this lough is a seriously deep fjord and, for that reason, has always been an important shipping route. Indeed, he gained ultimate cool status from the boys as he checked in taKing with the harbour master on tHe ferrY his walkie-talkie before we headed off along the lough, Carlingford ferry between just to make sure that we omeath and Warrenpoint costs wouldn’t be interfering €8 for adults, €5 for children. The 15with any comings and minute crossing operates seven days a goings as we crossed the week from June to the end of August on shipping lane. the hour from 9am-midday, with evening It is worth taking cruises at 6.30pm and 7.30pm. Houron this section of the long cruises cost €13 for adults and Canoe Trail with a €8 for children. +44 28 4175 3425 guide, not only because of or email castlecruises3@ their expert local knowledge yahoo.co.uk and state-of-the-art kayaks but also for the impressive amounts of hi-tech neoprene that allowed Top left, Tory Bush Cottages; middle, fine hospitality at Slieve Donard Hotel; left, reflective paddling on Carlingford Lough.

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us to survive the Carlingford chill.

We set off from one of the trail’s access points on the outskirts of Warrenpoint, where a small stony strand at the bottom of some steps leading down from the coastal road provided easy embarkation.

We clung to the tranquil coastline heading south towards the mouth of the lough, in order to cross the shipping lane at one of its narrowest points. Some coastal guards appeared within minutes, but not the ones we had predicted.

A grey seal pup basking in the early morning sun sat up from his rock, curious to see exactly what these red and yellow species were up to and a rather stern looking heron perused his territory from a grassy bank just further up the shore.

John’s knowledge of the geography of this area was impressive and his enthusiasm for bringing families and outdoor

enthusiasts into these borderlands was infectious. I love kayaking because sometimes it is only by stepping back and looking from a distance that we get the bigger picture and breathe in its beauty.

A natural silence fell upon all of us, young and not so young, the further we paddled around the lough, taking in the Mourne Mountains standing majestically on one side and the Cooley Mountains mirroring back similar stupendous status on the other.

I was sure I even heard children chatting about wanting to climb Slieve Foy, the highest peak of the Cooley Mountains, but quickly put that down to the sea breeze carrying mirage-like murmurings.

We pootled on past the shores of Warrenpoint town, an elegant terrace of Victorian seaside houses tucked into the foothills of the Mournes and, as we turned a

Top, the ruins of King John's Castle at the foot of Slieve Foy are a reminder of Carlingford Lough's Norman past. Right, shock and oar.

corner, we could see up into the mouth of the lough in one direction, where a couple of huge cargo ships were moored at the entrance to the Newry Canal. In the other direction, we saw the clear open waters of the lough, with its well-marked shipping lane bidding right of way. The wind picked up as we crossed the lane but we were happily spared some of the Easterlies which can lash across the lough here and I felt totally AUGUST 2013

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adventure | Carlingford

PHoToGrAPH by CiAráN WiLSoN

safe in John’s hands and the day’s gloriously turbulence-free waters.

We gathered for a snack break over on the silent seaweed-covered shore near Omeath, where grazing horses and cattle gawped at us from the fields up above. We continued on down the shoreline, the waters calm and calming, distracted also by oyster cages nestled along the shore. The lough is an important shellfish fishery, with thriving local suppliers and also an Oyster Festival (carlingford.ie) begging a return visit in August. Finally,

after a couple of hours of paddling, we entered the harbour of the medieval town of Carlingford, its impressive 12th-century St John’s castle perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the water.

Water will always stir up an appetite, and it was a quick stroll to PJ O’Hare’s pub in Carlingford (pjoharescarlingford.com), where we had been recommended the seafood chowder. Luckily they didn’t mind these bedraggled creatures wading in from the lough, although as we tucked in, the boys noticed that

Above, Catherine navigates the seaweed-rich waters of Omeath. Left, see leprechaun "remains" at PJ O'Hare's Anchor Bar.

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Eat at ...

PJ o’Hare’s Pub A cosy pub with nooks and crannies, packed with local people who not only take their watering hole seriously for its stouts and shorts, but also for its food. PJ’s has won many awards for its gastro gorgeousness, which include chowders, calamari and crab claws, as well as an oyster bar menu, the prize product of Carlingford. (Tholsel Street, Carlingford, Co Louth, 042 937 3106; pjoharescarlingford.com.) vanilla restaurant Fine dining , using all the best that the Mourne Mountains and surrounding seas have to offer. The one exception in local sourcing is the superb cocktails to start off your evening with a bit of sparkle, especially the Champagne Float.

Head here à deux in the evening – or en famille for lunch, as they make sandwiches that will fill the hollow legs of any growing teenager.

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Kingfisher Bistro This is the place to go in Carlingford for local lobster in season. Set in a quiet medieval cobbled courtyard, it is a lovely spot in summer, but also a humming hive of activity inside for the rest of the year. Leave room for dessert, as they are gaining quite a reputation among the sweet tooth fairies in these parts. (Darcy Mc Gee Court , Dundalk Street, Carlingford, Co Louth, 042 937 3716; kingfisherbistro.com.)

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adventure | Carlingford

Other canoe trails to explore

Above and right, kayak cruise control.

Below, outdoors enthusiast Hugh O'Hare at Castlewellan lake.

all sorts of creatures are welcome in Carlingford. Because there on the wall was a set of leprechaun clothes found up on Slieve Foy, which had us all in fits of giggles, as you can imagine. But if this is a tourist wind up, it is well done. As the story goes, publican PJ O’Hare found a small suit and collection of tiny bones up on the mountain 20 years ago, as well as a few gold coins, all of which he brought back to the pub. Ever since, there has been an annual Leprechaun Hunt in the town to try to find the little people (thelastleprechaunsofireland. com). On the first day of summer

the great glen Canoe trail is an epic, 100-kilometre trail along Scotland’s highland waterways, all connected by the engineering genius of the Caledonian Canal, which links lochs with locks from Fortwilliam to Inverness (greatglencanoetrail.info). For family trips, check out the wild canoeing and wild camping trip along the Great Glen with awardwinning wildernessscotland.com.

Take a train from Glasgow to Fortwilliam with scotrail.co.uk. the northern forest Canoe trail in the US and Canada is to canoeists and kayakers what the Appalachian Trail is to hikers. A natural playground, which traces its way across the waterways of New York, Vermont, Québec, New Hampshire and

time every year hunters come out in their hordes and, as a result, the local community campaigned for years for this part of the Slieve Foy Mountain to be officially protected by the European Union, under the EU Habitats Directive to conserve flora, fauna and wild animals.

In 2009, they won and, as we wandered back out into the town there, indeed, was a big brown EU sign to prove it. It warned cynics and sightseers as follows: “Plants, wild animals and leprechauns are protected in this area. Please tread lightly. Hunters and fortune seekers will be prosecuted”.

both Carlingford Lough is about an hour’s drive from g hikin on n Belfast and Dublin. For more informatio for the in the Mourne Mountains see walkni.com and .ie. For gford carlin Cooley Mountain walking trails see Lough canoeing guides and equipment on Carlingford com ture. dven reata and other parts of Co Down, see oneg

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Maine for 1,200 kilometres of paddling paradise. Based on the traditional trails of early Native Americans, their brilliant website, northernforestcanoetrail.org, helps you pick a spot, whether it is flat or white water, lake or stream.

Stockholm’s lakelands in Sweden are one big natural trail and, with an archipelago bursting with islands to explore, it is best to get a little lost and not stay too strictly on a trail here. With your luggage transferred for you, you can paddle independently through Lakes Malaren, Marviken and Klämmingen, wild camping in one spot and staying in a local farmhouse in another. Just four nights, with easy kayaking, make this a great family beginner’s introduction to kayaking holidays (naturetravels.co.uk).

PhotograPhy by big Smoke StudioS / Nature travelS – euaN turNer dmh Photo

Dappled sunshine over the mighty Mournes.

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Top, knowing your place in Newcastle; above, low cloud shrouds the peaks; below, a broad horizon from the Mourne Mountains.

illustration by Kathi burKe

adventure | Carlingford

pJ o'hAre's

PhotograPhy by big smoKe studios

“Please can we climb the mountain and find out, Mum?” my little one pleaded. I couldn’t believe my ears. Begging to climb?

There was magic in the air, for sure. I promised to come back for the Leprechaun Hunt as, in the meantime, we had a boat to catch from Omeath to get us back to our starting point at Warrenpoint. This is a new passenger ferry that runs a daily service every 30 minutes from June until September. As we headed our way back north of the border, the boys couldn’t take their eyes off the hills all around.

I savoured that moment as they collapsed slowly into a comforting, quiet cocoon of utter fatigue. I smiled and realised that I may have found neither leprechauns nor a pot of gold at the end of my trail. But I had certainly found my treat.

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culture break | baden-baden

An hour's drive from Stuttgart, the age of glamour lives on in the German spa resort of Baden-Baden, where thermal baths, a casino, fine dining and upmarket shopping attract a discerning crowd.

Aoife Carrigy joins the A-list. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

a claSS reSOrt

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Yburg Castle has a stunning vantage point, looking out across the Rhine to France.

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culture break | baden-baden

tuttgart might be most famous as the home of MercedesBenz and Porsche but for fans of The Beautiful Game, this part of southern Germany holds some poignant memories. The city is forever synonymous in Irish footie fans’ minds with Ray Houghton’s 1988 goal, which famously delivered a 1-0 victory to Ireland against England in the European Championships. More recently, the English team scored something of an own goal in 2006’s World Cup, when they decamped just an hour’s drive south-west into the Black Forest, to the historic spa town of Baden-Baden. Their wives and girlfriends (and the inevitable entourage of paparazzi) came along for some world-class pampering, and the distraction of the ensuing media circus is said to have cost England the Cup. The WAGs couldn’t have picked

S

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Above, a a better destination for a spot of scenic cycle high-profile downtime. Dubbed ride. Right, “Europe’s Summer Capital” in writer Aoife its Belle Époque heyday, BadenCarrigy Baden has long been a playground soaking up the sights for high society’s most glamorous and spas of and influential. This is where Baden-Baden.

Russian czars kept summer palaces to hobnob with dukes, lords and emperors, composers, painters and novelists. This is also The glamour lives on but, where the owner of what Marlene thankfully, today you don’t have Dietrich described as “the to be rich and powerful to access most beautiful casino in the it. Gentlemen in possession the world” – Casino Badenof a suit and tie and the €3 sweetest thing Baden – would treat entrance fee can make Germany increasingly produces a Paris’s visiting culture a date with Lady Luck dry style of wine (trocken), although reporters to a daily in the stunning inner producers also excel at off-dry styles handful of gold to chambers of Casino (feinherb), both in the form of tangy encourage them to Baden-Baden (casinoRiesling whites and fruity Spatburgunder stay, and play, a little baden-baden.de) – and (Pinot Noir) reds. Dessert wine fans longer. Long before of course flesh-andshouldn’t miss the local ice wein, the age of WAGs and blood ladies are welcome a luscious nectar produced from paps, high society’s too. A visit to the casino grapes picked and fermented spotlight was firmly is a great excuse to glam in the coldest of winters. fixed on Baden-Baden’s up, as it is housed in some of considerable glitz. the most remarkable rooms of

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culture break | baden-baden

Sleep at ...

SPlurGe If you want to place yourself at Baden-Baden’s green heart, nothing will do but to book a room at brenners Park-Hotel & Spa (4–6 Schillerstrasse, +49 7221 9000; brenners.com). Insist on a balcony overlooking the parkland avenue of Lichtentaler Allee, and expect all the trappings of an historic five-star hotel (including a Michelin-starred restaurant) that counts world leaders and WAGs amongst its moneyed past guests.

Rooms from €225.

MId-ranGe Up some steep winding hills, Hotel Magnetberg (18 Scheibenstrasse, +49 7221 3640; hotel-magnetberg.de) rewards guests with leafy views of many of the town’s landmarks from the comfortable terrace of

the town’s architectural centrepiece, the neo-classical Kurhaus – an Aladdin’s cave of ballrooms and concert halls, restaurants and private dining-rooms overlooking formal gardens where free outdoor recitals regularly take place. You could make a night of it, taking in a meal

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at its chic restaurant before having a flutter, but a chance to ogle the sumptuous décor is worth the nominal entrance fee alone.

Built in the 1850s, in response to the French ban on casinos and modelled on the dripping interiors of Louis XIV’s Versailles, the NeoBaroque setting boasts floor-toceiling marble fireplaces and gilded mirrors, buffed bronze chandeliers,

its restaurant and bar. The recently renovated bedrooms (many with comfortable balconies and basic mini-bars) are smartly functional and as cheerful as the friendly staff, while a “wellness” centre offers in-house sauna, massages, physiotherapy and Dr.Hauschka beauty treatments. Rooms from €75. budGet Baden-Baden may not do budget-chic, but Stuttgart’s outpost of the frill-free chain, Motel One (14 Lautenschlagerstrasse, Stuttgart, +49 711 3002 090; motel-one.com) sure does, and in a perfectly placed city-centre location to boot. Expect high-beam smiles at reception and pared-back bedrooms devoid of extras such as telephones or mini-bars. Rooms from €69.

Above, pedal power in the shopping district, and fine dining at the Hotel Magnetberg.

Below, extreme opulence at the Casino BadenBaden, which is housed in the neo-classical Kurhaus, right.

scarlet silk damask walls, out-sized murals, cupid-clad ceilings, friezes, frescos and reliefs. All of this opulence comes into its own when the morning light spills through the vaulted glass dome of the casino’s Wintergarten conservatory, making a guided tour (10am-noon) an essential detour from Baden-Baden’s nearby museum mile on the green walkway of Lichtentaler Allee, where, set amongst aristocratic gingko trees and gown-like weeping beeches lining the burbling Oos River, you will find the city’s top museums. Museum Frieder Burda (Museum-Frieder-Burda. de) showcases a world-class private art collection in a Richard Meierdesigned building. Other must-sees include the Stadtmuseum’s

KIDS GO FREE!

culture break | baden-baden

ancient flagstones from the nearby Roman baths ruins, where mosaics depict scantilyclad women with very blonde hair playing ball sports, suggesting that recreational leisure and augmented beauty have been around these parts for millennia.

Flanking the town’s shallow river, criss-crossed by footbridges, stands a proud parade of five-star hotels, gourmet restaurants and chi-chi bars, their plumped-up cushions and fashion-focused menus beckoning you to lounge. This is prime peoplewatching territory – the place to see and be seen – but before you take up position, a little preening is in order.

You could join the body-beautiful

on their daily jog around some of Baden-Baden’s 500 kilometres of nature trails (more than 60 per cent of the city’s surface is forested) but as those ancient Romans knew, no visit to this natural spa town is complete without a rejuvenating soak in its famously mineral-rich waters.

Left and above, Corinthian splendour at the Trinkhalle spa complex, one part of the sprawling Kurhaus. Right, the ivy-coated courtyard at Weinstube im Baldreit. Below, al fresco dining at Rizzi bistro.

The town’s international reputation as a spa resort dates back to when Roman soldiers would skip over from their garrison in Strasbourg to take advantage of the 800,000 litres of volcanoheated water that bubbles up some 2,000 metres to the surface every day at a steamy 68º C. Today’s visitors can choose between two contrasting thermal bathhouses (carasana.de), the oldest of which is

Eat at ...

SPlurGe Eating out in Baden-Baden is primarily an opportunity to showcase the results of a hard day’s pampering – and where better to do that than on one of leafy Lichtentaler Allee’s many open-air terraces? Top of the list is rizzi (1 Augustaplatz, +49 7221 25838; rizzi-baden-baden. de), a wine bistro whose “Food Affairs” tagline encapsulates a heady fusion of Asianaccented Mediterranean food, the finest wines – and the most flattering of lighting.

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MId-ranGe For something more low key, seek out the well-priced regional cuisine and friendly welcome of Weinstube im baldreit (3 Küferstrasse, +49 7221 23136; magic-baldreit.de), whose charms are buried in amongst the winding cobbled streets of the Medieval old town. Dine in the ivy-coated courtyard, inside the intimate wine tavern itself, or catch one of its outdoor rooftop concerts on a summer’s evening.

budGet Stuttgart also offers the chance to sample local Swabian cuisine, either in the atmospheric setting of alte kanzlei (5 Schillerplatz, +49 7112 94457; alte-kanzleistuttgart.de) just off the central Schlossplatz, or in todi’s (7 Bolzstrasse, +49 7112 293307; todis.de), a cheap and cheerful chain that serves excellent beer and rib-sticking fare such as maultaschen (local ravioli) and spatzle (noodles) to eat-in or take-away.

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culture break | baden-baden

5 essential things to do ...

1

Stroll the lichtentaler allee, Baden-Baden’s “green salon” where everyone who was anyone in Europe’s Belle Époque era would come to rub shoulders, exchange ideas, discuss high culture and generally check each other out.

Sample local wines on a winery tour, which can be arranged through the local Baden-Baden Convention and Visitors Office (badenbaden.de), and can also provide hiking routes and maps should you wish to work up a thirst first.

Pamper yourself with a luxurious treatment, either at one of the town’s two thermal spas (carasana.de) or in any number of other hotels and wellness centres dotted around the town.

Try your luck at the Black Jack table, take a spin at the roulette wheel or get serious with the professional poker-faced players in the sumptuous surroundings of casino baden-baden (casino-baden-baden. de), where the rattle of slot machines is buried away from the central glamour.

Trace the history of the automobile at Stuttgart’s Mercedes-benz Museum (mercedes-benz-classic.com), taking in more than 150 classic models along the way. Also, the optional Fascination of Technology exhibition allows children young and old to dream up their very own car design.

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4 5

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Above, more than 60 per cent of BadenBaden's surface is forested. Below left, the snazzy CaracallaTherme spa. Below right, Baden-Baden street scene.

known as the Irish-Roman Bath because it was inspired by Irishman Dr Richard Barter (1802-70), creator of the Victorian Turkish bath that combined the use of drier air in Roman baths with Turkish traditions. This late-19th century bathing temple attracts a discerning crowd, who meander through its mosaic-tiled complex of parallel male and female chambers before re-joining one another – steamed, brushed and buffed – in its final, spectacular, Renaissance-inspired domed pool.

In refreshing contrast to Friedrichsbad’s historical setting is the state-of-the-art CaracallaTherme. This spa boasts a bevy of steam rooms and saunas that include a 60-seater Spectaculum sauna as well as indoor and outdoor pools, Jacuzzis and sun-bathing lawns where guests sip freshly

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BRINGING THE KIDS?

squeezed juices and discuss which fabulous restaurant to visit that night. Some dedicated thermalwater advocates go so far as to drink the mineral-rich waters, and it’s not uncommon to see locals top up water bottles from the various drinking fountains dotted around the complex and town. Perhaps

Segway vineyards tours more tempting however the views from one of (city-seg.de/sondertouren), – and certainly more the many castle ruins, “Kinderparadies” childcare in Caracalla food-friendly – is such as Yburg Castle Spa (carasana.de) and the world’s the fine local wine from which you can steepest funicular railway at Mount Merkur crafted from the sunsee across the Rhine to (stadtwerke-baden-baden.de) make Badendrenched vineyards France. And make room Baden surprisingly family friendly. Daywith which Badenin your suitcase for a trips include waterfalls, rock-climbing, Baden’s surrounding bottle or two: nearby bob-sledding or Germany’s largest hills and forests are Nagelsforster’s excellent theme park Europa-Park in sprinkled.

Pinot Noir – known locally Rust (europapark.de).

Whether you take as Spatburgunder – is as a mere 15-minute drive highly regarded in Germany and from the city centre to sample across the border in France’s Alsace Above, Neuweier’s acclaimed Riesling wine regions as it is rare to find baker Kristina (baden-badener-wg.de) or dedicate a beyond those localities.

Betsch at full day-trip to exploring the local If shopping is your recreational Baden-Baden wine route set amongst the castledrug of choice, be warned: Badenmarket. Left, see where the magic dotted Black Forest, a meander Baden has much to tempt, from oldhappens on a through the Rebland region is a school furs and cutting-edge brands winery tour. must. Make time too, to take in to fabulous Art Deco pieces that AUGUST 2013

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culture break | baden-baden

ILLUSTRATION By ANNA SIMMONS

Stuttgart

Above right, Stuttgart's stunning Mercedes-Benz Museum. Right, a pit-stop on Baden-Baden's shopping route and below, the venerable Black Forest Gateau.

could set you back several grand a pop. The abundance of antique shops gives a clue to the town’s draw as heaven’s ante-room for the well-heeled retiree, as does the price of local property.

Baden-Baden is as popular with Russian oligarchs and Kuwaiti sheikhs today as it was with the globe-trotting high society of yesterday. With myriad attractions, including Europe’s second-largest opera hall, the Festspielhaus (festspielhaus. de bi-annual horse racing at de), the nearby Iffezheim (badenracing.com charming eateries racing.com), such as Café König (chocolatier.de) specialising in ultra-decadent Black Forest gateaux, it’s not hard to see the attraction.

Whatever kind of free-wheeling downtime tickles your fancy, it's here in Baden-Baden – so good they named it twice. aer lInGuS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO StuttGart ON MON, WED, FRI AND SUN.

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Baden-Baden is designed for unwinding but, if you fancy picking up the pace, factor in some time to explore the surprisingly varied attractions of neighbouring Stuttgart.

The quickest way to quicken the pulse is to hop behind the wheel of the motor-racing simulator at the excellent Mercedes-benz Museum (mercedes-benz-classic.com). But if the thrill of the track leaves you cold, it's impossible not to be engaged by some part of the remarkable story being told here. Tracing more than 125 years of automobile history, a two-hour meander takes the visitor from the world’s first petrol-powered car, created by Karl Benz, through to tomorrow’s inventions. The journey is furnished with all sorts of fascinating detours – which stars drove what cars and whatever became of namesake Mercedes Jellinek? – and punctuated with tableaux snapshots of cultural landmarks, from Einstein and Suffragettes to E.T. and test-tube babies.

But Stuttgart is about more than classic wheels and iconic goals.

This industry-heavy university city pulls a young crowd, as evidenced on a balmy evening when they take to the pavements and parks to sip beer, gossip, flirt, snack on latenight picnics, play boules, practise skateboard tricks, eat ice-cream, jog, cycle and canoodle – though not necessarily in that order. All of this action unfolds around the central hub of Schlossplatz, a handsome green temple to the pleasure of leisure, around which jostle cultural institutions, architectural treasures and consumer magnets.

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Urban eats at Hackney's hip Netil Market.

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London recaLLing The East End has moved smoothly on into a post-Olympics era, writes Tilly Culme-Seymour. It’s a part of the city that combines beauty and brains – fine parks and canals, alongside many galleries and cultural events. Photographs by Steve Ryan.

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City break | London

ne year on from the highly successful London Olympics 2012, you might think that the East End had earned itself a restful summer season. If it were a hunting nag, it would be put out to pasture, grazing off the sweet clover of past triumphs and dropping its belly as the days turned to weeks and months. Feats of sporting acumen, such as Mayor Boris Johnson dangling from a zip wire in London Fields, are a fading but piquant memory. Photographs of Laura Trott and Jason Kenny snogging are old hat, rather than breaking news.

Queen Elizabeth has recovered from her brush with a ‘00’ – licence to

o

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AUGUST 2013

kill – British agent. And the east, the east ...

The East End combines beauty and brains: it is a heartland of parks and canals; a headland of museums, galleries, unexpected events. At any time of year (though summer is one of its finest platforms), you will find visiting a worthy investment. And the good news for this magnificent area is that the BO (before Olympics) epoch has transitioned smoothly into a locally driven AO (after Olympics) age.

A great place to start when whetting your appetite for a trip to east London is the Spitalfields Life blog, by the Gentle Author (spitalfieldslife.com), or the book of the same name, published by

Above, catching some rays in London Fields.

Left, trendy Spitalfields and, below, multi-ethnic Brick Lane.

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City break | London

e chef with a native Nuno Mendes, a supremely talented Portugues a memorable dining understanding of freshness and flavour, creates (Patriot Square, Bethnal Green, experience at Viajante in the Town Hall Hotel Room, also overseen by +44 207 871 0461; viajante.co.uk), where Corner menu and competitive pricing.

Mendes, is on the first floor with a toned-down

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Above, Corner Room restaurant, commandeered by ace Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes, left.

Below, the amazing Dennis Severs' House.

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Saltyard Books last year. Divided into categories such as “Market Life”, “Cultural Life” and “Night Life”, it is a local’s almanac and a very useful resource for the visitor. Spitalfields is an historic parish in the heart of east London, now part of the Borough of Tower Hamlets. It is where, in 1759, feminist writer Mary Wollstonecraft was born; and an abundance of Blue Plaques, which commemorate the lives of notable personages, and the buildings where they lived and worked, testify to the rich cultural inheritance of the area. Another good way to delve into the history of Spitalfields is to take a tour of Dennis Severs’ House on Folgate Street, which pays homage to 18th and 20th century life, with every floor dedicated to the style of the age.

From Spitalfields, it's a short walk to the shopper’s paradise of Old Street, with its smattering of chilled waterside cafes, such as Towpath and also Brick Towpath, Lane On a weekend trip you Lane.

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City break | London

may choose to cast yourself into the fray of Sunday’s Brick Lane Market, a traditional flea market where you can find vintage clothes stalls, bric-a-brac and of course wonderful street food. Save some appetite however. In Brick Lane, stopping for a curry is mandatory, as ubiquitous as bagel and lox in the Big Apple. Tandoor joint Tayyabs on nearby Fieldgate Street is one of the best for its fragrant spiced meat and freshly baked rotis and naans.

Coffee too, is part of the local vernacular. Caffeine has achieved cult status and the “fern leaf” – the pretty swirls of milk on the surface of your morning milky coffee – is the new gold standard, as latte art gives fine art a run for its money. East Londoners will expatiate on their favourite espresso bar and discourse on the merits of a single origin filter over a 5oz flat white. It might be the New Zealand accent of Allpress on Redchurch Street, where they do a sponge brunch of avocado, tomato, boiled egg and provolone cheese, or the academic approach of the baristas at Workshop Coffee in Clerkenwell, which switches those fanatics’ buttons. Nude Coffee on Hanbury Street and Climpson and Sons on Broadway Market are also favourites, the latter for its excellent iced coffees, which you can take to London Fields to find a patch of shade and cool off

Top and far right, the charmingly eccentric Zetter Townhouse. Right, time for a caffeine fix at Nude Coffee.

Bed down at ... bUdGet Some of the best bargains can be found at airbnb.co.uk. Specialising in unique accommodations, this nifty website, founded in 2008, is matchless for short-term rentals. I found, for instance, a lofty artist’s studio in Shoreditch for £80 per night in high season.

A golden opportunity to snap up a comfortable nest in a choice location – if you don’t mind missing out on hotel facilities and room service.

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Mid-PriCe the re London Shoreditch (419-437 Hackney Road, +44 207 613 6500; hotelshoreditch.com) is fantastically well situated for visitors to east London.

Sitting cosily between Shoreditch and Cambridge Heath, and with easy access to Broadway Market and London Fields, it really is a plum location for any guest with some serious exploring in mind. Prices start from £107 per night.

SPLUrGe Zetter townhouse (49-50 St John’s Square, +44 207 324 4567; thezettertownhouse. com) is a 13-bedroom Georgian townhouse hotel in Clerkenwell. It is eccentric, charming and unusual – apocryphally the home of a “Great Aunt Wilhelmina” – with no two rooms alike. Nettle Gimlets in the cocktail lounge are an essential afternoon pick-meup. Prices from £174 for a Townhouse Club.

inside as well as out.

If you have your togs, exercise can be taken at London Fields Lido, which is somewhat similar to the Paris Plages come summer.

Sartorialists parade in plumy kaftans, bikinis and shades, while mothers stripe tots’ cheeks and noses with sun block and buy themselves some valuable down

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City break | London

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You simply must ...

1

Go to Columbia Road Flower Market on a Sunday. When you tire of the fresh blooms, peruse one-of-a-kind shops such as Choosing Keeping (128 Columbia Road, +44 207 613 3842; choosingkeeping. com), a treasure trove for the stationery collector. The first thing I bought was a beautiful clear paperweight encasing a suspended cornflower for my sister’s desk. And, for me, a Pentel Ultra Fine pen with a green nib.

Watch a show at the Little Angel Puppet Theatre (14 Dagmar Passage, +44 207 226 1787; littleangeltheatre.com).

A couple of Christmases ago, I took my nephew and nieces to see A Very Old Man with Enormous Wings, a short story by Gabriel García Márquez. It was a toss-up who was the most mesmerised at the wizardry of the puppeteers and the haunting, beautiful story.

2

3

Bike to Tower Bridge to admire the Tower of London (+44 203 166 6000; hrp.org.uk/ toweroflondon) with its ravens and Beefeaters: a privilege under-used by Londoners themselves. If you don’t fancy the bicycle ride, take a River Bus – you can use your Oyster Card – and combine with a trip to the Tate Modern, or Tate Britain. The city looks especially magical from the river. For information on London transport, visit tfl.gov.uk.

Hackney City Farm (1a Goldsmiths Row, +44 207 729 6381; hackneycityfarm.co.uk) is an educational community project in Haggerston Park.

With its Mini Farmers Club held each Saturday morning, it is a great way for children to interact with farm animals.

There are also gardening and pottery sessions for adults. Cafe Frizzante, the

4

farm eatery, serves substantial breakfasts, lunches and teas, as well as ice creams and sorbets for parched volunteers.

Redchurch Street, between Liverpool Street tube and Hoxton over-ground, is great for shopping and coffee. Labour & Wait (85 Redchurch Street, +44 207 729 6253; labourandwait.co.uk), for instance, sells traditional products for the home, with an emphasis on design and functionality. The range extends from milk saucepans to Guernsey sweaters, secateurs to garden twine. Take an iced latte from AllPress Espresso (58 Redchurch Street, +44 207 749 1780; allpressespresso.com) to a matinee at the Aubin Cinema (64-66 Redchurch Street, +44 845 604 8486; aubincinema.com)

5

Opposite, Matt Malby of tasty nose-totail restaurant Rochelle Canteen.

Left, splendid stationery at Choosing Keeping; top, a streetwise hen at Hackney City Farm.

time. The 50-metre pool, however, attracts serious swimmers too, and medium and fast lanes are no-go zones for the pool idler. Another – free – mode of exercise is of course walking. Strolling through the streets, preferably without a map, is the best way to discover any city, and east London is no different.

Cycling is also excellent. Barclay’s Cycle Hire, a public bike-sharing scheme, allows you 24-hour access for a mere £2. Journeys must be within 30 minutes to be free, with surcharges for longer rides. For a truly authentic experience, try sitting in one of the cycle cafés, such as Old Street’s look mum no hands!

– surely a name that would make even an anti-grammarian such as e e cummings sit up. Puncture repair and a quick tuning of brakes while reenergising with a Bounce protein bar has proved surprisingly popular and imitators are springing up all around.

For the culture vulture, arts spaces such as White Cube and the Whitechapel Gallery attract a younger, hipper crowd than do the old patriarchs, the National Gallery and Royal Academy. First Thursdays (firstthursdays.co.uk) run the first Thursday of every month and are a good opportunity to explore east London’s smaller galleries, which stay open until 9pm with free events, talks and private views.

Summer is a time, if that fickle English weather holds, to eat outside. Top marks go to AUGUST 2013

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Rochelle Canteen (Arnold Circus, +44 207 729 5677; arnoldandhenderson.com) – run by Margot Henderson, restaurateur Fergus Henderson’s better half – not only for its exquisite menu, featuring original nose-to-tail type fare, but also for its generous allowance of outdoor tables. (It is lunchtime only and BYO with a small corkage.) The al fresco tables at Spanish-Moorish influenced, Moro (+44 207 833 8336; moro. co.uk) and Morito (+44 207 278 7007; morito.co.uk) restaurants, both at Exmouth Market, are worth fighting – or rather, booking – for, since Exmouth Market is a lovely place to be on a clement night. And for the morning after the night before, there is no

shortage of sharp breakfast spots at which to break your fast. The London Review of Breakfasts blog (londonreviewofbreakfasts. blogspot.co.uk) has some of the best.

For me, bread-lover that I am, E5 Bakehouse (395 Railway Arches, +44 208 525 2890 ; e5bakehoues. com) is an absolute must for its Hackney Wild sourdough, coriander seed-studded rye bread and home-made jams.

Last and best, the place for tiptop sundowners. Whether it’s the local boozers that float your boat, the wine bars, or posh watering holes where words such as “mixology” are bandied about, the east has something for you.

The Hoxton Pony (104-108 Curtain Rd, +44 207 613 2844;

3 beautiful gardens The former country estate of Clissold House was first opened to the public in 1889. A Green Flag award-winner – the gong honouring the country’s finest and best green spaces – Clissold Park is a family-friendly favourite, with plenty of picnicking areas, and an ice cream booth for the sweet-of-tooth. Church Street and Green Lanes are both close by with good transport links.

Culpeper Community Garden (1 Cloudesley Road, +44 207 833 3951; culpeper.org.uk) is an oasis in the heart of busy Islington. It is many the quiet lunch I have snatched there, amidst the pathways,

Left and right, E5 Bakehouse, whose sourdoughs and home-made preserves are a must for bread lovers. Below, a verdant salad at Rochelle Canteen.

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ponds and blooms. The buzz is “Cultivated By and For Local People” but the place has an exceptionally welcoming feel and invites outsider exploring: a truly magical, secret garden. dalston eastern Curve Garden (13 Dalston Lane; dalstongarden.org), sited on the old railway line that linked Dalston Junction Station to the goods yard and North London Line, is both an events space and community garden. They run workshops – many of them free – for adults and children, with an emphasis on providing entertainment during the long summer holidays.

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thehoxtonpony.com) brainchild of Gerry Calabrese (the son of bar maestro Salvatore Calabrese), has impeccable pedigree, killer gin cocktails and a list as long as your arm of celebrity clients. The Nightjar (129 City Road, +44 207 253 4101; barnightjar.com) is a speakeasy-style bar started by Trinity College Dublin alumni.

And, if you are lucky enough to be staying in Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green, feign cool when a knock at your door heralds the entrance of a “Town Hall Tea Lady” serving you a stiff drink rather than a pot of Lapsang Souchong. It would tickle womaniser and heavydrinker James Bond, who perhaps went straight from the closing ceremony for his favourite martini with a twist of lemon, shaken, but not stirred. aer LinGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK, SHANNON AND BELFAST TO London DAILY.

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Top, speakeasy-style bar The Nightjar; above, a pop of colour at Town Hall Hotel; below, bustling Broadway Market.

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trip | everglades

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str ang e par adi se

Everything in the Everglades region – land, water and plants, of course, but also history – is always shifting and drifting, revealing new perspectives and concealing old realities. Paddy Woodworth explores the awe-inspiring beauty of a unique ecosystem.

Photographs by Richard Gilligan.

A view that's at once inspiring and eerie from the Smallwood Store and Trading Post – now a museum – on Chokoloskee Island.

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ou can never be quite sure of your ground in the Everglades.

Channels through vast mangrove forests and sawgrass marshes open and close, almost overnight; lush vegetation hides human traces on the island shell-mounds, built up above the ever-present water over many generations by Native Americans; on the region’s western

Y

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edge, some islands disappear, and yet more are created, by annual hurricanes.

The Everglades has been memorably described as a “river of grass” by Marjory Stoneman Douglas, in her classic 1947 history. Most of Florida is barely above sea level, with only the gentlest gradients. So Lake Okeechobee seeps, very slowly, all the way across the middle of the peninsula to its southern tip. It is a single seepage with countless channels, interacting with neighbouring areas like Big Cypress Swamp and Fakahatchee Strand. The coast of Florida was the first part of North America settled by European colonists but, as Douglas points out, its mysterious southern interior was almost the last area to be properly mapped. It remains one of the least understood. The Spanish conquistadores, unable to grasp anything of material value in the Everglades’ maze of often-invisible waterways, simply gave up and called it “the lagoon of the Holy Spirit”.

In the five centuries since, public

Top, following the wet prairie boardwalk into Corkscrew Swamp. Above, man on an ecomission, Paddy Woodworth, at Smallwood Store.

Below left, an egret at sunset.

opinion about the ’Glades has gone through a fourpart evolution. First, it was seen as a swamp full of savages, to be avoided.

Then it was eyed as a waste of productive agricultural land, just waiting to be dammed, drained and domesticated. Only when the Everglades was about to disappear altogether, in the middle of the last century, did official America begin to honour it as a unique ecosystem, extraordinarily rich in biodiversity.

Its remnants became a truly aweinspiring national park.

More recently, the region has become the subject of the $15 billion Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Program (CERP). These wetlands are not just beautiful, it has finally been realised, they also provide vital “ecosystem services” – fresh water, flood control, fish nurseries and more – to Florida’s still rapidly expanding population.

Today, kayaking down a mangrove tunnel spangled with Spanish moss and air plants, abounding in alligators and dazzlingly beautiful tropical birds,

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Clockwise from left, a pelican at Everglades City Marina; an alligator at Shark Valley; a "sea cow", or manatee.

Must-see flora and fauna alligatOr Spectacular relic of the dinosaur era, remarkably approachable with care, unlike the much more dangerous (and very rare) American crocodile. spaNisH MOss/ airplaNts The moss is the atmospheric grey-green “beard” shrouding so many Southern US trees; the related air plants have the most vivid red and yellow flower spikes.

MaNgrOves Salttolerant shrubby trees with roots often in the sea, forming dense coastal forests. saWgrass MarsH Masses of razor-sharp sedge

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shape the characteristic “river of grass” Everglades landscape.

BlaCK vUltUre On slow back roads, these huge birds will flop in front of your car, too lazy to take off properly, silvery wingtips shimmering like landing lights on a demented aircraft. aNOle Small lizard whose colour changes with its mood; male puffs out throat like a chewing-gum bubble.

Bald CYpress Typical swamp tree that grows to a great age and great height and looks dead in winter without its feathery green leaves; branches are often

home to orchids. rOseate spOONBill Exquisitely plumed big wading bird with spoonshaped bill;rare generally, but common enough on Homestead-Flamingo route.

BrOWN peliCaN Very heavily-built bird with amazingly graceful flight; it has a huge fish-pouch under its bill.

MaNatee Bulky, languid marine mammal, sometimes called “sea cow” and is possible origin of the mermaid myth; elusive from a boat, but easy to see near the Big Cypress Welcome Center on US 41.

it’s easy to forget that your pathway may first have been carved out by the Calusa people. They tended kitchen gardens here on their shell mounds and those barely perceptible pathways still have to be kept clear by park rangers.

Easy to forget, too, that the tricoloured heron or snowy egret that flaunts its breeding plumage just a metre away, so absorbed in its feeding that it totally ignores your passage, has only very recently learned this trust of humans. Numerous species of waterbird were slaughtered almost to extinction here in the 19th century, so great was the appetite of American and European women for exotic feathers, and sometimes entire exotic birds – I kid you not – in their hats. These crimes of fashion gave birth to the Audubon Society, the US equivalent of Birdwatch Ireland, in 1905. Its first warden, Guy Bradley, sent out to protect nesting herons and egrets in the Everglades, was shot dead in the same year by plumehunters, angered by the new federal prohibition on their traditional livelihood.

Florida had long been a turbulent place. As a rather neglected Spanish colony, it became a safe haven for Creek Indians fleeing European expansion in the US. They became known as Seminoles, or “fugitives”.

They in turn gave refuge to many escaped black slaves, with whom they intermarried. With the acquisition of Florida by the US in 1821, the Seminoles retreated

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trip | everglades

into the Everglades. Only a couple of hundred remained alive by the end of the Third Seminole War in 1855. Their descendants today proudly regard themselves as an “unconquered people”. They had never submitted to transportation to the so-called Indian Territory, now part of Oklahoma.

The Everglades then remained – some say it still does – an untamed frontier territory. The Seminoles made a living in its remotest places.

Adventurers – Civil-War renegades, range-war gunslingers, hunters and a few farmers with more courage than sense – colonised its fringes.

The most famous of them was Edgar J. Watson, the real-life subject of Peter Matthiessen’s monumental novel about the region, Shadow Country. Watson was accused – falsely in most cases – of many crimes, among them the murder of Bradley, the Audubon game warden.

It so happened that, on the first evening, we visited Chokoloskee Island, an ancient Calusa shellmound and now just inside the national park, we were directed by a local to take photographs down

by Smallwood’s Store. We were delighted with its broad vantage point on the Ten Thousand Islands, hugging the shore of the Everglades along its western coastline. The wooden store, built on stilts to withstand hurricane surges, dates from 1904 and is now a folk museum, but it was closed that evening. I crawled around under the stilts in search of lizards and snakes.

Stay at …

Above, the sun starts to set on Smallwood Store. Left, Paddy's survival kit at Corkscrew Swamp.

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BUdget Miller’s World glades Haven (875 South Copeland Ave, Everglades City, +1 239 695 2082, theevergladesflorida.com) has basic but clean and comfortable self-catering cabins and stilt homes.

Friendly Irish-American management with good local information; free Wi-Fi, a marina, and kayak and boat tours from $89. For onsite eats is the seafood-oriented The Oyster House Restaurant and a deli store. For northern Everglades trails only: 15min drive to Fakahatchee Strand, 50min to Shark Valley. Rooms from $99.

UpsCale greenlinks golf villas (7995 Mahogany Run Lane, Naples, +1 239 732 5532, greenlinksnaples.com) has two and three-bed self-catering accommodation on a golf course.

Very comfortable and secure, manicured landscapes, free Wi-Fri.

For classic American bar food, try the onsite Sam Snead’s Tavern (samsneadslely.com). For northern Everglades trails only: 30min to Fakahatchee Strand Preserve, one hour to Shark Valley. Rooms from $199 per night.

BOUtiQUe A charming designerrefurbished motel on Florida Keys, Casa Morada (136 Madeira Road, Islamorada, +1 305 664 0044, casamorada.com) has one-bed suites, and gorgeous Gulf views from its own private island. Free Wi-Fi plus weekend yoga classes, kayaks, bikes and snorkelling gear.

For southern Everglades trails only: one hour 10min drive to Homestead-Flamingo Park entrance.

Also marvellous drives on vast span bridges over the gulf, all the way to Key West and the Hemingway House. Rooms from $289.

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Eat at …

BREAKFAST At Havana Café (191 Smallwood Drive, Chokoloskee Island, +1239 695 2214, myhavanacafe.com), don’t be put off by a gruff welcome and pokey seating, this is a real treasure.

Great breakfasts – lightly-spiced omelettes and, an American rarity, properly brewed tea! – and a warm, neighbourly atmosphere once you break the ice. For northern Everglades trails only; reopens for the season on October 1.

SEAFOOD Green Turtle Inn (Islamorada, Florida Keys, +1 305 664 2006, greenturtlekeys. com) employs a marvellous mix of garden- and sea-fresh ingredients, regional cuisine and high-end culinary skills. The fish dishes are truly superb - don’t miss the Drunken Scallops, or the Screaming Tuna (screams produced by

encrusting with wasabi peas). Fine wine list too, but it scores highest of all on ambience; an oddly effective blend of discreet New England-style wooden panelling and laid-back Florida warmth. For southern Everglades trails only.

ASIAN-AMERICAN With instant access to the Gulf of Mexico, Keys cuisine lends itself to firstclass sushi, and Kaiyo Grill (81701 Old Highway, Islamorada, +1 305 664 5556, kaiyokeys.com) excels in exquisitely presented miniatures of diverse species you may never have heard of. Bursts of jalapeno, sesame and ginger, of course, but the sushi roll to die for is Coco Loco – coconut shrimp topped with avocado sheet Thai curry. For southern Everglades trails only.

WHEN TO GO Winter/early spring is best,

It was not until opened at the last when it is pleasantly warm, I read the minute to reveal mostly sunny and, above all, free of first chapter green channels, mosquitoes. So prices are highest of Shadow between then. Summer is wet, humid and the Country, on islands that bugs could easily drive you mad. my return to had all seemed But it’s cheaper, of course.

Ireland, that I one landmass a Autumn is hurricane realised I had been moment before. season. stooping down, in Dolphins played happy curiosity, on around us; a manatee the very spot where Watson broke the surface briefly in had been murdered, on the night of the distance and ranks of royal terns October 24, 1910. lined the sandbars.

Watson was confronted by a Out on the open sea, our group of several dozen neighbours destination was Pavilion Key, an as he waded ashore. Whether they island on whose gleaming sands constituted a legitimate posse acting the ubiquitous mangroves were in “self-defence”, as they successfully replaced by thickets of sea grape, its claimed, or a vigilante gang set fluttering green leaves luminously on lynching a man against whom veined with red. Dense flocks of nothing had been proven, remains migrating plovers and sandpipers contentious even today. Two days rested on the tideline, or wheeled later, Bob Miller Junior, whose and sparkled over the water in the family owns the cabins where we brilliant sunlight. A pair of ospreys, were staying, kindly took us out on handsome chocolate-and-white a breathtakingly beautiful boat trip “fish eagles”, mated in full view among the Ten Thousand Islands. beside their huge, still-empty nest, Impassable mangrove barriers apparently oblivious to our presence.

Opposite, the 10,000 Islands area that populates southwest Florida.

Top, going native on Pavilion Key, and, right, taking a pit stop at Havana Café.

Despite these scenes of luminous beauty, I found that Watson’s shadow hangs over this lovely island also, and of several other places we visited, as you will find if you read the novel.

However, it’s very easy to step out into the variegated light of this unique landscape.

Hiking or kayaking in the Everglades sounds challenging, even intimidating, and if you head into the trackless backcountry, it certainly is all of that, and more. Be careful, and be very well prepared, AUGUST 2013

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IllUSTrATION By ANNE SMITH

Five great points of entry for Everglades beginners

out there. But you don’t have to endure risk and hardship to enjoy a taste of the Everglades region. Few places in the world offer such instant access to so much remarkable wildlife and scenery. Around the park’s edges, boardwalks lead straight from car parks into swamps and wet prairies. You see so many animals and birds, right up close, that you sometimes feel as though you are in a (very good) zoo. Excellent signage indicates the presence of great rarities, like the ghost orchid, hidden high in the branches of a venerable 500-year-old cypress at Corkscrew Swamp.

A short and comfortable kayak trip, courtesy of the Millers, on the Turner River, will bring you into intimate contact with alligators as big as your boat. They are not aggressive but you should back off slowly if they start to hiss. It’s only good manners: this was their place long before it was ours, by about 200 million years.

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to the full backcountry experience, there are plenty of intermediate trails. You can walk from your car in the Fakahatchee Strand and in ten minutes you will find yourself alone on a deer trail in the middle of shimmering grasslands, with a pinewood on one side and a cypress dome on the other, and the calls of birds and frogs all around you.

Such walks can be quite magical.

Just remember to bring a compass, a map, water and a phone. The Everglades is a very big place and, like I say, you can never be quite sure of your ground here.

Paddy Woodworth’s book on ecological restoration projects worldwide, our once and Future Planet: restoring the World in the Climate Change Century, will be published by University of Chicago Press in October.

sHarK valleY A 24-kilometre, easy hiking/ biking loop trail that gives a great introduction to typical Everglades wildlife, plants and habitats – alligators at your feet, birds everywhere; but the trail itself is asphalt, crowded, and zoo-like. tUrNer river A 12-kilometre easy kayak/ canoe trail from Big Cypress Preserve into Everglades National Park, through mangrove swamp: alligators, snakes, air plants, several species of heron and egret.

FaKaHatCHee straNd preserve Big Bend Cypress Boardwalk offers quick access to ancient unlogged bald cypress swamp; Janes Memorial Scenic Drive offers many do-it-yourself wild hiking opportunities.

COrKsCreW sWaMp One of the most highly-rated Audubon bird reserves in the US, famous for breeding wood storks, and ghost orchids. It’s an easy three-kilometre boardwalk trail.

HOMestead (earNest COe visitOr CeNter) – FlaMiNgO MariNa The main southern entrance of Everglades National Park opens onto a 60-kilometre road to Flamingo, boarding point for the 160-kilometre backcountry Wilderness Waterway to Everglade City at the park’s northern limit. A cornucopia of hiking and canoe trails off the Homestead-Marina road access most Everglades habitats.

Above, kayaking on the Turner River. Right, feeling the force of the evergreen Everglades.

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ANDALUCÍA

Whether the notion of ‘me time’ appeals, or you prefer a city break, Lucy White picks some of the finest places to stay in Andalucía, southern Spain.

Come on in, the water’s fine – you can’t help but relax at Barceló La Bobadilla

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Barceló La Bobadilla

With its three-kilometre private drive, trickling fountains and the scent of jasmine on the breeze, you can easily channel your inner lord or lady of the finca at Barceló La Bobadilla. Like a self-contained pueblo blanco set on a 350-hectare estate of lush woodland, this luxury five-star hotel is a glimmering jewel in Andalucía’s crown. It’s easy to get lost in its romantic, Moorish sprawl of three restaurants, 70 rooms and suites, U-Spa, gym, huge pool, summer kids club and tennis courts, but there’s still a sense of exclusivity and intimacy thanks to friendly staff and excellent hospitality. Despite its remote location – around 60 kilometres from Málaga airport, and 70km from Granada – there are plenty of diversions, from horse riding to quad biking to hiking. Eating out requires more effort (it’s about 17 kilometres to the nearest town) but for an indulgent retreat, Barceló La Bobadilla ticks all the boxes.

It is also a sustainable operation, converting the waste from local olive oil into energy.

Rooms from €190, including breakfast.

Barceló La Bobadilla, Carretera SalinasVillanueva de Tapia, Finca La Bobadilla, Loja, Granada, +34 958 321 861; barcelo.com

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Spotlight | AndAlucíA

Hotel Claude Marbella

Guests at the Hotel Claude Marbella can start their days on a high, breakfasting on its rooftop terrace. Moreover its hearty spread of fresh fruit, bread, pastries, cereals – as well as cooked á la carte options – is served until a very leisurely noon. And it gets better. A beautifully turned out 17th-century townhouse, the property finds the perfect balance of contemporary needs and wants (iPod docking stations, PlayStations, free Wi-Fi, Nespresso coffee on tap, Molton Brown toiletries) with original features. There are just seven rooms, each uniquely decorated, and the entire house is available for rental at €1,990 per night for up to 14 people. Hotel Claude’s exceptional service has won much, consistent praise from TripAdvisor, and did we tell you it’s less than a ten-minute walk to the beach and the Plaza de Los Naranjos, or that there’s a raft of tapas bars and restaurants right on the doorstep?

Forget any preconceptions you might have of “Marbs” – this is classy stuff.

Rooms from €280 per night for two, including breakfast, welcome drinks, fresh fruit and mineral water on arrival and free entrance to the beachfront 02 Wellness Centre spa and pool. Casco Antiguo, Calle San Francisco 5, Marbella, +34 952 900 840. hotelclaudemarbella. com

Room Mate Lola City breaks don’t get much more stylish, or more central, than Málaga’s Room Mate Lola. Rocking a contemporary Art Deco vibe – a mash-up of Miami’s South Beach and east coast Gatsby glamour, courtesy of one of Spain’s bestknown interior designers and antique dealers, Lorenzo Castillo – this 50-room hotel is within 12 kilometres of Malaga airport and a ten-minute walk of the old town, train station and airport shuttle bus stop. What it lacks in outdoor space (there are no balconies or terraces), it makes up for in location. Lola’s proximity to tapas bars, shops and harbour promenade El Palmeral De Las Sorpresas, makes it an ideal base to explore a city that boasts a Picasso Museum and the CAC, aka Contemporary Art Centre.

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Rooms from €76.95, including breakfast. Room Mate Lola, Calle Casas de Campos 17, Malaga, +34 952 579 300; lola.roommatehotels.com

For enquires email sales@mercantilegroup.ie

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Hotel | Bar | Restaurant | Venue

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Located on Dame Street in the heart of historic Dublin stands a building built in 1835 with a rich heritage, which is now home to the welcoming Mercantile Hotel, bar & restaurant.

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Spotlight | AndAlucíA

Hotel Carabeo One of the quieter resort towns on the Costa del Sol, Nerja has largely retained its old world charms. While its fishing village past has long been replaced by tourism, there are fortunately more tapas bars here than greasy spoons and Irish pubs.

Family-run Hotel Carabeo – its MD, Londoner Lucan Kersey, is married to TG4 presenter Síle Ní Bhraonáin – is in the old town and perched atop

a cliff along Nerja’s 16 kilometres of undulating coastline. Arguably best known for its fantastic Restaurant 34, one of only a handful of fine dining eateries in town, Hotel Carabeo is equally impressive as boutique lodgings, its interiors louche and boudoir-esque. Five suites face out on to the sea, two rooms on to the street, the penthouse occupying the entire second floor.

Rooms start at €85 per night, with selfcatering options available. Hotel Carabeo, Calle Carabeo 34, Nerja, + 34 952 525 444. hotelcarabeo.com

Fountainhead Always dreamed of going off the grid but without scrimping on luxury?

Fountainhead is a happy medium.

Located near Riogordo village, around 50 kilometres from Málaga airport, this family-run “four-suite retreat” and spa is manna for gastronomes who value their privacy – each flamboyantly decorated casa has a private terrace or garden with plunge pool, and breakfast can be delivered to your door to be assembled in your own self-contained kitchen. While there are no TVs, each room has an iron, hair dryer and CD player – and mountain views. Meals are prepared from locally sourced, seasonal produce, the hotel harvesting organic herbs, olive and almond crops (also used in its own spa). Owners Helen Bartlett and Peter Jewkes can also organise cooking classes, yoga retreats and wine tastings.

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Suites from €255 per night for two, including breakfast.

Do Absolutely Nothing Week is priced at €1,530 for two including breakfast, dinner and a fully stocked fridge on arrival.

Fountainhead, Buzon 57 Partido del Rio el Terral, Fuente la Camacha, Riogordo, Málaga, +34 696 183 309; fountainhead inspain.com

AER linguS FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO MÁlAgA DAILY.

DEEPWELL blackrΟck cΟunty dublin IRELAND

BEInG ThERE | PRaGUE

48 hours in

Prague

Eat at …

Regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in the world, Prague rightly lives up to its reputation, writes Brendan Harding.

Don’t miss ...

Armed with the indispensable Prague Card, the Czech capital is a treasure trove of both old and new just waiting to be explored.

PaST Around Prague Castle gain free entrance to St Vitus Cathedral – the spiritual icon of the Czech state; visit the Old Royal Palace, St George’s Basilica, Daliborka Tower. Wander through Golden Lane, a warren of pastel-coloured medieval houses before venturing across Charles Bridge – stopping off for the essential photo – and into the narrow laneways and squares of the Old Town where the famous astronomical Clock is one of the city’s most visited attractions.

PRESEnT Czechs love their jazz and fans of Dixieland, swing, modern and Latin will love Prague’s jazz institution that is Reduta Jazz (Národní trída 20, +420 224 933 487; redutajazzclub.cz). The club has hosted some of the world’s greatest musicians, including Acker Bilk, Dave Brubeck, Chris Barber and saxophonist – and ex-US president – Bill Clinton. Book well in advance.

FUTURE Dvorak Sec Contemporary (Dlouhá 923/5, +420 607 262 617; dvoraksec.com) is a leading gallery exhibiting contemporary artworks by young, emerging and established artists from the US, Britain, Germany and the Czech Republic. Names, including David Cerny, Dennis Oppenheim and Julian Opie, spill easily from the tongue in this ultra-modern space.

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Clockwise from top left, St George’s Basilica; Prague’s most photographed bridge, the Charles; fine dining at V Zátiší; make time for the Astronomical Clock.

Visitors to Prague are spoiled for choice; small backstreet eateries, quaint riverside cafés, gourmet dining or fast food on the run.

SPLURGE Located in the Old Town on a quiet backstreet, V Zátiší (Betlémské nám / Liliová 1, +420 222 221 155; zatisigroup.cz) boasts some of Prague’s best international and native cuisine. Try their degustation menu and sample Czech delights such as kulajda soup, roast quail breast, pan-seared fillet of pike-perch and crispy duck accompanied by a surprising choice of locally produced wines.

MID-PRICE If you like beer with your food then this is the place for you. Pivovarský Dum (Jecná 14 / Lípová 15, +420 296 216 666) brings together hearty Czech cuisine and a great selection of beers produced on site. This hugely popular brewery/eatery is always busy so booking is advisable at pivodum@iol.cz.

BUDGET Hardly typical Czech food but Cantina Mexican Restaurant (Újezd 38, +420 257 317 173; restauracecantina.cz) is a Prague favourite, whose owners have triumphed in recreating some sensational Mexican classics at affordable prices.

Oh, and there’s an impressive tequila menu too.

Sleep at…

Finding accommodation to suit your budget shouldn’t be a hassle. Here’s a small sample.

SPLURGE A former merchant’s palace restored with loving attention to detail, Hotel Le Palais (U Zvonarky 1, +420 234 634 111; palaishotel.cz) is the undisputed shimmering jewel in Prague’s luxury hotel crown. It’s a superb five-star Belle Époque-era townhouse, with an emphasis on exceptional service. Rooms from €146.

MID-RANGE If location is everything then the restored Art Nouveau K+K Hotel Central (Hybernská 10, +420 225 022 000; kkhotels.com) in the heart of the Old Town is the place to stay. Check their website for some great room offers starting from as little as €93 per night.

BUDGET Although situated away from the Old Town – though easily accessable by public transport – Sir Toby’s Hostel (Dexlnická 24, +420 246 032 610; sirtobys.com) is surrounded by an interesting mix of markets, eateries, clubs and bars. This highly-rated and well dressed hostel offers private rooms from €32 and dorms from €8.

Clockwise from top right, überquaint Golden Lane; making friends at Sir Toby’s Hostel; ye olde beer hall and brewery, U Medvidku; old world luxury at Hotel Le Palais.

Drink at ...

In Prague you’re never far from a hostelry where you can sample the local brews.

TRADITIONAL U Medvídku (Na Perštýne 7, + 420 224 211 916; umedvidku.cz) is a bar, restaurant and brewery dating back to 1466. Inside its cavernous rooms, complete with ancient vaulted ceilings, you can watch the brewing process at work. But, be warned – their X33 Beer at 11.8 per cent is not for the faint-hearted.

IRISH A home away from home on the west bank of the Vltava River, opposite the Irish Embassy, JJ Murphy’s (Trziste 4, +420 257 535 575; jjmurphys.cz) is all wooden floors, large windows and great beer on tap. A friendly pit-stop on the thirsty stroll back from Prague Castle.

MODERN Located in a courtyard just off the Old Town Square, Bombay (Dlouhá 13, +420 222 324 040; bombay-bar.cz) features a list of over 150 cocktails, and is one of those funky, cool bars with great grooves where you’ll want to spend the whole night.

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO PRAGUE DAILY.

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LA MAISON A classic French bistro in the heart of the city.

Located on Castle Market, Dublin, moments away from Grafton Street.

La Maison boasts one of the finest outside terraces in the city.

The menu is a well thoughtout selection of French dishes, huitre (fresh oysters), plateau de pates du jour, poele de la mer, tarte provençal and cote de boeuf to name but a few of the wonderful choices on offer.

Open 7 Days a week Ireland’s Largest Selection of Waterford Crystal, Irish Design, Gifts, Jewellery, Fashion & Accessories.

Located in the heart of Dublin, overlooking Trinity College, our Nassau Street flagship store & restaurant opens Mon - Sat at 8.30am. Opens 10am on Sunday with a live Jazz band.

from 12.30pm to close.

Upstairs room available for private parties for up to 30 people.

All dishes are prepared fresh and cooked to order by a team of top international chefs.

“There are a lot of very average restaurants out there serving food

Early bird menu served every Thursday with live traditional Irish music from 5pm.

World Wide Shipping Promotion €29·95 Tax Free Shopping · Free Gift Wrapping Nassau St, Dublin · Cork · Galway · Killarney · Trim Cashel · Stillorgan · Swords · Douglas · Shanagarry

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which I can certainly talk about, and even recommend, without compromising myself. But as a foodie, it is rare to experience the kind of talent and excellence I experienced at La Maison.

This was superb food at any price; I’d pay double for it”.

Ross Golden Bannon - Sunday Business Post

La Maison, 15 Castle Market, Dublin 2, Ireland +353 (0)1 672 7258 | lamaisonrestaurant.ie

It’s hard to pick a favourite venue but the TRAVERSE THEATRE (10 Cambridge Street, +44 131 228 3223; traverse. co.uk) really is unique.

Located on Lothian Road – and now in its 50th year – Traverse provides a haven in August for the local arts crowd, while its roster of new writing and contemporary theatre is all-year-round. Get your tickets early though.

ARTHUR’S SEAT is the peak of volcanic formation in Hollyrood Park. Among the wild slopes and verges, the busy surrounding city gets completely left behind.

Push on and climb the blustery crags, however, and you’ll enjoy the best panorama of Edinburgh there is.

Kicking the day off the only way I know: A swift flat white from Edinburgh’s homegrown coffee roasters, ARTISAN ROAST (57 Broughton Street, +44 752 623 6615; artisanroast.co.uk). artisanroast.co.uk Sourcing, roasting, serving and supplying their own beans, these award winning baristas and cosy pews make this coffee house unrivalled.

An insider’s guide to

Edinburgh It’s Edinburgh Festival month, and Eoin Carey is scouting for the city’s best hangouts.

For even the most seasoned festival veteran, you haven’t seen it all without a visit to Edinburgh’s newest venue.

SUMMERHAll (Summerhall Place, +44 845 874 3000; summerhall. co.uk) was born from a University’s disused Veterinary School and converted into studios and galleries. The winding corridors spring to life in August with a curated programme of art, performance and music, not to mention the fun to be found in its colourful courtyard bar.

More about Eoin The city explodes in August, with the EDINBURGH INTERNATIONAl FESTIVAl (August 9 to September 1; eif.co.uk) and the EDINBURGH FRINGE (August 2-26; edfringe.com). Dublin’s Gate Theatre brings a season of Beckett to the former, while Limerick charmers The Rubberbandits return to the latter. With venue licenses running as late as 5am, comedy, theatre, dance, art and music are on tap around the clock.

Corkman Carey is a freelance arts photographer who has lived and worked in Edinburgh for six years.

He took the shots for this feature, and when not behind the lens he can be found amongst the audiences, bars, and scenery – and mischief – of Scotland; eoincareyphoto.com

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With a saturation of cloned clothes shops on the high street, you have to look a little harder to find something unique.

Look no further than GODIVA (9 Westport, +44 131 221 9212; godivaboutique.co.uk), a vintage fashion hotspot for guys and girls. It also showcases unique seasonal editions and accessories from indie designers.

It is impossible not to get excited about the NATIONAL MUSEUM Of SCOTLAND (Chambers Street, +44 300 123 6789; nms.ac.uk). Recently renovated, with exhibitions and installations that appeal to all ages, you can test drive an F1 racer or visit the world’s first cloned sheep!

CORNELIUS (18 Easter Road, Abbeyhill, +44 131 652 2405; corneliusbeers.com) is a beer and wine haven that caters for needs you don’t even know you have. There’s not a bottle on these floor-toceiling shelves that the staff has not tried personally.

International wines and champagnes, Scottish ales and world beers: you are in good company.

In the heart of the city’s listed old town, THE RED DOOR GALLERY (42 Victoria Street, +44 131 477 3255; edinburghart.com) displays and sells limited edition artwork from a vibrant pool of local artists. Their walls are adorned with charming and colourful print, design, craft and jewellery originals. Great one-off souvenirs at affordable prices On the water of the bustling Shore area in Edinburgh’s Leith, gastropub THE KING’S WARK above (36 Shore, +44 131 554 9260; thekingswark.com) is hallowed ground for food savvy locals. It is also just the beginning of a sensational night carousing the district’s labyrinthine mix of charming watering holes, including THE ROSELEAf (23/24 Sandport Place, +44 131 476 5268; roseleaf.co.uk) to THE PORT O’LEITH (58 Constitution St, +44 131 554 3568; portoleithpub.com).

Always suspicious of a Guinness abroad, I have found my solution in looking to local beer.

THE HANGING BAT (133 Lothian Road, +44 131 229 0759; thehangingbat.com) won’t serve you the black stuff, but this microbrewery does have a rotation of exemplary stouts that could give St James’s Gate a run for its money. That, and a raft of exciting international beers, great staff, and delicious snacks, this is a fine festival pit stop.

Located about as central as it gets, THE GRASSMARKET HOTEL (94 Grassmarket, +131 220 2299; grassmarkethotel.co.uk) sits underneath an epic view of Edinburgh Castle. Quirky décor – The Dandy anyone? – and helpful service puts this basic hotel on the map. Sign up for its Mates Rates Offer of rooms from £1!

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK AND SHANNON TO EDINBURGH DAILY.

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A watercolour painting by Róisín O’ Shea © 2012

J

ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History and Tradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

S

ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for just €10 per person “ return”.

Hooley Nights For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €49.95 per person.

• • • •

AWARD WINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES

Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: info@jfp.ie

www.jfp.ie

SEAFOOD IS OUR SPECIALITY AWARD WINNING A LA CARTE MENU

INFLIGHT

Inflight

For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including The Host (pictured), turn to page 116.

inFlight

Welcome Aboard For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you.

Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on.

We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ... ... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith.

Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh.

Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed.

It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off.

Devices PermitteD ✔ at any time: Devices powered by micro battery cells

and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices PermitteD ● in Flight but not During taxi/take-oFF/

initial climb/aPProach lanDing: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).

Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys.

Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode

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selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected.

Devices ProhibiteD ✘ at all times: Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat

Food and bar service

Seirbhís bia agus beáir

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip.

Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

News, music and movies

Nuacht, ceol agus scannáin

On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis.

GLéAsAnnA A bhfuIL ✔ ceAdAIthe I GcónAí: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.

GLéAsAnnA Atá ● ceAdAIthe I rIth nA heItILte, Ach nAch

bhfuIL ceAdAIthe Le LInn don eItLeán bheIth AG GLuAIseAcht Ar tALAmh/AG éIrí de thALAmh/ AG tAbhAIrt fAoIn dreApAdh tosAIGh/ AG dírIú Ar thuIrLInGt/ AG tuIrLInGt: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri.

Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe).

Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLéAsAnnA A bhfuIL ✘ cosc IomLán orthu: Gléasanna a tharchuireann

minicíocht raidió d’aon turas.

Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha.

Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta.

Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí.

Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse.

Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

SmokiNg In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights.

Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. tobAc De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh.

Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.

g to fly with Aer Lingus. sant flight. Thank you for choosin plea and able fort com a e hav We hope you t as taisteal le hAer Lingus. hach agat agus go raibh maith aga eam taitn h dac por com s tura n íon Tá suil againn go mb

AUGUST 2013

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INFLIGHT

Aer Lingus news Aer Lingus Announces MAjor Long-HAuL expAnsion

Aer Lingus recently announced significant expansion to its transatlantic route offering. From 2014, the airline will operate ten daily transatlantic services, connecting Ireland and Europe with cities throughout North America.

Starting April 2014, Aer Lingus will operate five flights per week from Dublin to San Francisco. A new Dublin to Toronto route will offer a daily service in the summer and up to four weekly services in the winter. Flights from Shannon to New York and Boston will almost double in frequency.

In addition to direct access to San Francisco, Aer Lingus customers travelling from a number

of UK and European cities via Dublin will benefit from a wide choice of onwards connections to 16 popular cities on the West Coast and beyond including Seattle, Los Angeles, Las Vegas and San Diego.

The new San Francisco route also represents a business opportunity for Aer Lingus Cargo.

Aer Lingus customers travelling from over 20 UK and European cities via Dublin to Toronto will also have the option to connect to eight key cities within Canada including Vancouver, Montreal and Calgary.

To support the operation of the new routes, Aer Lingus will wet lease three Boeing 757 aircraft from ASL Aviation Group.

Pictured at the announcement are, right, Christoph Mueller, Aer Lingus Chief Executive Officer and, left, Leo Varadkar, Minister of Transport, Tourism and Sport with cabin crew members, Kara Sisk and Sarah Nolan.

Thank you, charitable fliers!

Last month, Aer Lingus presented a cheque for €200,000 to UNICEF Ireland for monies raised during special on board collections during 2012-2013, to support the Children of Syria appeal. Thanks to the generosity of Aer Lingus passengers, thousands of children are surviving that would have otherwise perished.

Pictured: (L-R) Cabin Crew Member, Eilis Gallagher, UNICEF Ireland Executive Director, Peter Power, UNICEF Ambassador and Munster and Irish rugby star, Donncha O’Callaghan, Aer Lingus Director of Public Relations, Declan Kearney and Cabin Crew Member Paul Bardin.

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Aer Lingus WeLcoMeD jFK eTernAL FLAMe To ireLAnD To mark the 50th anniversary of John F. Kennedy’s visit to Ireland in June 1963, a special ceremony was held on June 18 where a torch was lit from the Eternal Flame at the late President’s graveside at Arlington National Cemetery, Virginia.

Known as the Emigrant Flame, it arrived in Ireland on board an Aer Lingus flight from New York, in the care of a colour party from the Irish Army. Following a welcoming ceremony at Dublin airport the flame was transferred to the care of the Irish Naval Service with whom it travelled to New Ross aboard the Irish naval vessel, LE ORLA. The Emigrant Flame formed part of a special ceremonial event in New Ross, Co Wexford on June 22 as part of a programme of JFK50 celebratory events in the town.

The torch was transported in a specially designed miner’s lamp which is identical in every respect to the lamp used to transfer the Olympic Flame from Athens to London in 2012.

Ulster Grand Prix boost

Pictured L-R: Aer Lingus Cabin Crew Reagan Madden, William Dunlop and Noel Johnston, Clerk of the Course at the Ulster Grand Prix.

The sky’s the limit: Road racing ace William Dunlop helps launch Aer Lingus as official co-sponsor for the fifth year running, in the 2013 Metzeler Ulster Grand Prix. Aer Lingus has three return flights daily to both Heathrow and Gatwick from Belfast City Airport, with 84 weekly departures and arrivals amounting to over 12,000 seats each week, giving international fans travelling into Northern Ireland for Bike Week a wide range of options. Bike Week runs from August 12- 17, with the main race on the final day.

Dublin’s Favourite Casino Free Membership

The Fitzwilliam Casino & Card Club Clifton Hall | Lower Fitzwilliam St | Dublin 2 | Ireland | Tel: 01-6114677 | Visit: www.fitzwilliamcardclub.com

18+

www.ilovedalkey.com photograph: John Fahy www.dalkeyphotos.com

We’d love you to visit

PLEASE GAMBLE RESPONSIBLY

Dalkey where Michelle Obama met Bono The USA’s First Lady recently enjoyed our lively village atmosphere and hospitality in the company of local resident Bono – you too can find what you are looking for in Dalkey, we’d love you to visit.

Next up ≥ Dalkey Lobster Fest. 23, 24, 25 August Dalkey Lobster Fest is a fusion of local seafood and the best of current global jazz musicians with lots of fun events for all the family to enjoy.

Dalkey, on the coast just 12.5km south of Dublin, easy to get to by road, Aircoach or DART. For more information go to www.ilovedalkey.com

iNfLiGHt

Movies

FlighTS To ThE UNiTED STATES iroN MaN 3

Action, Sci-Fi, Fantasy (PG 13) 109 minutes Marvel’s “Iron Man 3” pits brash-but-brilliant industrialist Tony Stark/Iron Man against an enemy whose reach knows no bounds. When Stark finds his personal world destroyed at his enemy’s hands, he embarks on a harrowing quest to find those responsible. With his back against the wall, Stark is left to survive by his own devices, relying on his ingenuity and instincts to protect those closest to him. As he fights his way back, Stark discovers the answer to the question that has secretly haunted him: does the man make the suit or does the suit make the man? Iron Man 3 currently ranks as the fifth-highest-grossing film of all time and the highestgrossing film of 2013.

StarS Robert Downey Jr., Gwyneth Paltrow, Guy Pearce, Don Cheadle DirEctor Shane Black

20 ANS D’ECART

21 & oVEr

42

Comedy / Romance (NR)

Comedy (R)

Drama / Sport (PG-13)

a LatE QuartEt

tHE BiG WEDDiNG

StarS Miles Teller, Justin Chon, Jonathan Keltz

StarS Harrison Ford, Nicole Beharie, Lucas Black, Hamish Linklater, Ryan Merriman, T.R. Knight

Drama / Music (R)

Comedy (R)

StarS Philip Seymour Hoffman, Christopher Walken, Catherine Keener

StarS Robert De Niro, Diane Keaton, Katherine Heigl, Amanda Seyfried, Robin Williams

ScattEr My aSHES at BErGDorf’S

StarS Virginie Efira, Pierre Niney

tHE caLL

DEaD MaN DoWN

Thriller (R) StarS Halle Berry, Abigail Breslin, Morris Chestnut, Michael Imperioli, Michael Eklund

StarS Colin Farrell, Noomi Rapace, Dominic Cooper, Terrence Howard

Epic

traNcE Drama (R)

StarS James McAvoy, Rosario Dawson, Vincent Cassel

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Action/ Thriller/ Drama (R)

AUGUST 2013

Family / Fantasy / Animation (PG) VoicES of Colin Farrell, Josh Hutcherson, Amanda Seyfried, Christoph Waltz, Aziz Ansari

LoVE MariLyN

pHiL SpEctor

Documentary (PG-13)

Drama (NR)

fEaturiNG Elizabeth Banks, Adrien Brody, Ellen Burstyn, Glenn Close, Hope Davis, Paul Giamatti, Jack Huston

StarS Al Pacino, Helen Mirren, Jeffrey Tambor

Mr. poppErS pENGuiNS Comedy (PG) StarS Jim Carrey, Angela Lansbury, Carla Gugino

Documentary / Fashion (PG 13)

StarS Tom Ford, Vera Wang, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld

toM & JErry: roBiN HooD aND HiS MErry MouSE

Family / Animation / Comedy (G) VoicES of Jamie Bamber

tHE rEEf 2 HiGH tiDE

Family/ Animation / Musical (PG) VoicES of Drake Bell, Andy Dick, Fran Drescher

tHE BLiNG riNG Crime / Drama (R) StarS Katie Chang, Israel Broussard, Emma Watson, Leslie Mann

to tHE WoNDEr Drama / Romance (R) StarS Ben Affleck, Olga Kurylenko, Javier Bardem, Rachel McAdams

To mark the Gathering ireland 2013 – Aer Lingus presents six Irish Short Films that have achieved global recognition – Irish Folk Furniture, Fluffy Mc Cloud, Fear of Flying, A Different Perspective, Homemade and Two Hearts.

Movies

Flights From the UNiteD stAtes THE CROODS

Animation, Comedy, Family (PG) 92 minutes The Croods tells the story of the world’s first family road trip. When their cave is destroyed, the Crood family must embark on a comedy adventure into strange and spectacular territory in search of a new home. As if patriarch Grug didn’t already have enough to handle, it goes from bad to worse when they encounter an imaginative nomad named Guy. With Guy’s help the Croods conquer their fear of the outside world and discover that they have exactly what it takes to survive – each other.

The worldwide box-office success of The Croods has launched a new franchise, with a sequel confirmed and a TV series already in development. vOiCES Of Nicolas Cage, Ryan Reynolds, Emma Stone, Catherine Keener DiRECTOR Chris Sanders , Kirk De Micco

BROKEN Drama (R) STARS Cillian Murphy, Tim Roth, Rory Kinnear, Robert Emms, Eloise Laurence

THE COMPANY YOU KEEP Drama / Thriller (R) STARS Robert Redford, Nick Nolte, Stanley Tucci, Shia LaBeouf, Julie Christie, Susan Sarandon

fiNDiNG JOY

GAMBiT

THE HOST

Comedy (NR)

Comedy (PG 13)

Drama / Fantasy (PG 13)

STARS Josh Cooke, Liane Balaban, Barry Bostwick

STARS Colin Firth, Cameron Diaz, Alan Rickman, Stanley Tucci

STARS Saoirse Ronan, Jake Abel, Max Irons, William Hurt, Chandler Canterbury, Boyd Holbrook

OBLiviON

iT’S A DiSASTER

LES PROfS

MUD

Comedy (R)

Comedy (PG)

Drama (PG 13)

NiGHT TRAiN TO LiSBON

STARS Julia Stiles, Rachel Boston, Kevin M. Brennan, David Cross, America Ferrera

STARS Christian Clavier, Isabelle Nanty, Kev Adams

STARS Matthew McConaughey, Tye Sheridan, Jacob Lofland, Reese Witherspoon, Michael Shannon, Sam Shepard

STARS Jeremy Irons, Jack Huston, Lena Olin, Charlotte Rampling, Bruno Ganz

THE PLACE BEYOND THE PiNES Drama (R)

STARS Ryan Gosling, Bradley Cooper, Eva Mendes, Rose Byrne, Ray Liotta

SAfE HAvEN

RiO

Drama / Romance (PG 13)

Family / Animation / Comedy (PG)

STARS Julianne Hough, Josh Duhamel, Cobie Smulders

vOiCES Of Jamie Foxx, Will I Am, Jane Lynch, Jesse Eisenberg

Mystery / Thriller / Romance (NR)

RAMONA & BEEZUS

Family / Comedy (G) STARS Selena Gomez, Joey King, John Corbett, Bridget Moynahan

Action / Fantasy / Sci Fi (PG-13) STARS Tom Cruise, Morgan Freeman, Olga Kurylenko, Andrea Riseborough

SCOOBY DOO! SCOOBY DOO BiG TOP

Family / Animation / Fantasy (G)

vOiCES Of Frank Welker, Mindy Cohn, Grey DeLisle

THE iNCREDiBLE BURT WONDERSTONE Comedy (PG 13) STARS Steve Carell, Steve Buscemi, Olivia Wilde, Alan Arkin

OLYMPUS HAS fALLEN Action / Thriller (R) STARS Gerard Butler, Morgan Freeman, Aaron Eckhart, Radha Mitchell, Ashley Judd, Melissa Leo To mark The Gathering ireland 2013 – Aer Lingus presents six Irish Short Films that have achieved global recognition – Irish Folk Furniture, Fluffy Mc Cloud, Fear of Flying, A Different Perspective, Homemade and Two Hearts.

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INFLIGHT

Television

On demand

On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Don’t miss the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle and Kids programmes.

LIFESTYLE HIGHLIGHTS

An Apology to Elephants

Secrets of the Irish Landscape

Programmes include Storage Wars New York, Heston’s Fantastical Food, Jamie and Jimmy’s Food Fight Club, Other Voices, HBC Golfing World and Race of Champions.

DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS

Enter a world of award-winning documentaries – An Apology to Elephants, Dust and Stripes, Wild Mississippi, Tulip Bubble, Animal Odd Couples, Killing Lincoln and the Megafactories series focuses on Guinness. Music documentary highlights include Classic Album – U2 (The Joshua Tree), 1D All for One and Video Killed The Radio Star focuses on the iconic David Bowie.

To celebrate The Gathering 2013 two must see documentaries are Secret Life of the Shannon and Secrets of the Irish Landscape. Rebuilding New York’s Breezy Point tells the story of a GPA-led team of stars

who travelled with the support of Aer Lingus to help reconstruct a devastated community inflicted by Superstorm Sandy.

Multiple episodes of Premium Factual documentaries are available On Demand, from History Channel enjoy three episodes of Mankind The Story of All of Us, narrated by Josh Brolin and Stephen Fry. History Channel also presents the Emmy award-winning America: The Story of the US and from the National Geographic Channel there are three episodes of the technology series Engineering Connections, and three episodes of Great Migrations.

Bride to be

KIDS HIGHLIGHTS

Kids will enjoy Disney favourites Doc Mc Stuffins and Handy Manny and from Monster Entertainment kids will love I’m A Creepy Crawly and Roobard and Custard. Tweens and Teens will love Glee and Disney’s Good Luck Charlie and Jessie.

DRAMA HIGHLIGHTS

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AUGUST 2013

Doc McStuffins

Modern Family

Ripper Street

As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers an engaging choice of DRAMA TV with multiple episodes available of the hottest drama from the US and UK. There are also one-off episodes to select from brand new Dallas, Gossip Girl, Treme and Glee.

Three episodes of bbc drama, Ripper Street, are available. This compelling, gritty crime drama with a stellar cast, which is set in Victorian London, is fused with rich episodic storylines that meld with the intrigue of a criminal underworld as it follows the battle of the men whose job it is to bring the law to the lawless. According to The Guardian, “Ripper Street is beautifully performed, and beautiful to look at – stylish, and stylised.”

Ripper Street is filmed in Dublin.

After fabulous ratings and reviews

Don’t miss Dermot’s Secret Garden, Project Runway All Stars, Bride To Be and Who Do You Think You Are? New series Auction takes us into some of the world’s greatest auction houses and Fitzpatrick Hotels New York tells John Fitzpatrick’s unique story of his New York. To mark The Gathering 2013 Aer Lingus presents four episodes of The Genealogy Roadshow – part historical detective story, part emotional journey, a team of experts takes genealogy to the heart of a country and uniquely offers ordinary people the opportunity to find their place in history.

COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS

Game of Thrones for the first series, the moving, funny and true-to-life look at the colourful stories of midwifery in East London in the 1950s continues in Call The Midwife. Three episodes from the award-winning second series are available On Demand.

Aer Lingus is proud to premiere the first three episodes of Season 3 of Game of Thrones. In Season 3, many critical plot points from the first two seasons come to a head, with several major characters meeting cruel fates. This epic drama is set

in a fantasy continent and is a truly thrilling journey through a riveting and unforgettable fictional landscape.

Production and filming for the series took place in Northern Ireland.

Watch out for the first three episodes of brand new HBO Drama Banshee. This exciting new series charts the twists and turns that follow recently paroled master jewel thief Lucas Hood. Described by the Hollywood Reporter as, “ …taut, entertaining and smart… hooks you immediately.”

Don’t miss two episodes of the hottest comedy of the moment - Modern Family. Other brand new comedy includes The Inbetweeners USA, It’s Always Sunny In Philadelphia, Family Guy, Louie, How I Met Your Mother, The Big Bang Theory, Two and A Half Men and Trollied, Comedy highlights from HBO include Veep, Enlightened and Curb Your Enthusiasm. Aer Lingus presents the first five episodes of Girls from the brand new Season 2.

As Lena Dunham’s award-winning hit comedy series returns to HBO; Girls, a poignant yet humourous show, follows the urban adventures of a group of 20-something NYC women. Or, take a comedic trip back in time and enjoy Father Ted, Men Behaving Badly, Arrested Development, The New Adventures of Old Christine and HBO’s Entourage.

www.sweatershop.ie

“Beautiful classics at reasonable prices” Vogue

30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College) www.thesweatershop.ie | T. +353 1 671 2292

OBrienandAssociates_QP_3_Layout 1 11/05/2012 18:02 Page 1

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS

Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

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MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

www.obrienandassociates.com

INFLIGHT

Radio

On demand 1970s

Indie/Alternative

Classical

Easy Listening

Fitzpatrick Hotels

That 70s Show

Indie Hits

John Kelly

This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information, fitzpatrickhotels.com.

Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.

Take a trip back to the decade famous for flares and flower power in That 70s Show. Listen out for some seriously memorable gems from The Rolling Stones, Stevie Wonder, Pink Floyd, ABBA to Lou Reed, The Who and The Clash.

Tune into Indie Hits – an alternative selection of tunes from bands that have now gained cult status. Bands to listen out for include grunge gods Nirvana and the inimitable Pixies, as well as other US Indie gods – The Shins, The National and The Black Keys. Manchester’s finest of course make an appearance in the form of The Stone Roses and Oasis.

On RTÉ lyric fm, Kelly presents The John Kelly Ensemble every weekday afternoon between 2pm and 4pm. From Bach to Brian Eno, The John Kelly Ensemble transforms your afternoons with a sonic adventure like no other.

Here, exclusively for Aer Lingus passengers, John provides a carefullychosen selection of classical music.

You can find out more about John’s programmes on rte.ie/lyricfm or follow him on Twitter @johnkellytweets

Pop

Poetry

Talk Radio

Traditional Irish

Chart Hits

Irish Poetry Corner

Best of Moncrieff

Ceol na nGael

Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute Pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic. Listen out for your favourite artists in this compilation of smash hits. This exciting set of songs features hits from the world’s most successful artists including, Justin Timberlake, Nicole Scherzinger and One Direction. Also listen out for brand new songs from industry stalwarts Depeche Mode and David Bowie.

Poetry has been a passion in Ireland for a couple of thousand years. Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets – W.B. Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith, Percy French, Oscar Wilde and others of note.

This unique selection is at times comic, romantic and always nostalgic.

Enjoy this ensemble of Irish poetry produced especially for Aer Lingus to celebrate this remarkable Irish tradition.

Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street.

Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.

Ceol na nGael is a traditional music programme presented, in Irish, by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Seán presents Sruth na Maoile on RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and is celebrating 40 years on air. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth, le Seán Ó hÉanaigh. For more, visit rte.ie/rnag.

Twitter @RTERnaG.

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INFLIGHT

Radio

On demand

Opera

Irish

Countdown

Documentary On One Documentary On One is the multi award winning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (88-90FM) and is currently the most successful documentary unit in the world – winning over 70 awards since 2009.

The website rte.ie/doconone contains over 1,000 radio documentaries all freely available to listen/podcast. You can also download the all new and free Documentary On One for iPhone and/or Android app.

The documentaries featured are “Kerry and The Tramp”, “Fire and Water” and “Kenmare Street”. rte.ie/doconone.

The Big 10 98FM’s Big 10 is presented by Claire Solan, the voice of the Dublin airwaves and presenter of many well-known TV shows. In this special programme commissioned for Aer Lingus, Claire uses the theme of The Gathering 2013 and remembers previous events and gatherings that have brought Ireland and Irish people together over the past decades. We hope you enjoy the music, moments and memories. For more on Claire and 98FM, visit 98fm.com

Opera Night

Homecoming

In Tales from the Opera RTÉ lyric fm presenter Liz Nolan visits the history of this spectacular art. She presents an opera, a story, a glimpse into the lives of the characters, both real and imaginary, who have shaped the form as we know it today ...”Poor Butterfly” smirked Noel Coward. But can any of us remain unmoved by a story of such desperate sadness? Tales from the Opera pays homage to Puccini’s Madama Butterfly.

Homecoming is a nostalgic mix of famous Irish songs selected especially for The Gathering 2013. Whether you live in Ireland, are coming home to visit relatives and friends or discover your Irish roots – these Irish classics are sure to conjure up memories of days gone by. This show represents the cream of Irish talent from U2, The Pogues, The Cranberry’s, Horslips, The Dubliners, The Saw Doctors to Rory Gallagher and many more. Enjoy Coming Home with Homecoming.

Kids

Alternative

Jazz

Folk, Roots

RTÉ Jr

Phantom

Jazz Alley

Roots Freeway

Join Audrey and Ogie in The Cosy Corner to enter a world of sleepy and comforting music that’s sure to help little ones drift to the Land of Nod. The Cosy Corner has plenty of sleepy-time stories and meditations from all over the world; including soothing Irish lullabies. All of the lullabies are chosen especially for sleepyheads flying all over the world. So get your pillow and your blanket and get comfortable in the Cosy Corner … it’s going to be a relaxing flight. rte.ie/rtejr/listen

Phantom 105.2 is the home of very best music on Irish radio. Phantom is committed to playing new music, Indie Rock and alternative music for Dublin.

Claire Beck brings you through a selection of what you will hear on Dublin’s alternative Radio Station!

Claire presents Phantom Drive, daily from 3pm on Phantom 105.2. Turn it on and try something different!

Phantom 105.2 – phantom.ie!

Take a walk down Jazz Alley with Donald Helme, featuring the best in classic and contemporary jazz.

Focusing on the curious, quirky, obscure, and neglected Jazz Alley broadcasts on Ireland’s dedicated classical music station, RTÉ lyric fm, each Wednesday evening at 7pm.

Donald Helme’s lifelong enthusiasm for jazz began in the 1950s with Count Basie, and blossomed from there to include almost all aspects of this absorbing and important music.

Niall Toner presents Roots Freeway on RTÉ Radio 1, Ireland’s mostlistened-to radio station; Saturday nights at 11pm. Roots Freeway is an eclectic mix of Folk, Bluegrass, Blues and Roots Music. Toner is, first and foremost, a music fan, but he is also a songwriter and a musician in his own right, playing guitar and mandolin with his own band, The Niall Toner Band.

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INFLIGHT

Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to all your skin to breathe.

Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin.

Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise.

Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.

Exercising your feet and

legs periodically helps to reduce possible effects of long-duration travel.

Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation.

Move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness.

Reducing the effects of Jet Lag: Avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel.

When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities to the new time zone.

Mild exercise on arrival will help to stimulate your circulation.

We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Travel Tips It is important to take time to reduce your risk of getting sick. Various viruses are thought to spread mainly from person to person through coughing, sneezing, or close contact with the flu. Here are some everyday preventative actions you can take to help slow the spread of germs that cause respiratory illness, like flu: Cover your nose and mouth when you cough and sneeze. This will help to prevent the spread of droplets that contain germs.

Wash your hands often with soap and water. If soap and water are not available use an alcohol–based hand rub.

Avoid touching your eyes, nose and mouth, this can cause the spread of germs.

An important step is to get a flu vaccination, especially for elderly people, people with certain chronic health conditions, and pregnant women.

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.

Maximum weight

10kg 55cm (22ins)

If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com Telephone: (Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222

AER LINGUS

AER LINGUS REGIONAL

48cm (19ins)

40cm (16ins)

7kg (15 lbs)

(22 lbs)

24cm (9ins)

Maximum weight

20cm (8ins)

33cm (13ins)

In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter.

As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other

passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety.

If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination.

The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not

be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence.

In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them.

We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.

Saint Patrick’s Cathedral

OPEN DAILY FOR VISITORS

www.stpatrickscathedral.ie or call 00 353 1 4539472 for details

Booking essential: 01-2176130 / 33 The Plaza, Beacon South Quarter, Sandyford, Dublin 18

www.imaginosity.ie

27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 +353 (0) 1 675 9744

ET ON ST RE

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INFLIGHT

Route maps

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK Helsinki Stockholm

Aberdeen Glasgow

DUBLIN Kerry

Edinburgh

Copenhagen

Isle of Man Blackpool Manchester London Birmingham HEATHRoW Cardiff

Hamburg

London SouTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Jersey

Paris

Rennes

Berlin

Amsterdam

Warsaw

Dusseldorf Frankfurt

Stuttgart

Prague

Munich

Vienna

Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid

Faro

LINATE

Milan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Budapest

Venice Verona Bologna Dubrovnik

Bourgas

Rome

Barcelona

Ibiza

Lisbon

Milan

Naples

Palma

Corfu Izmir

Alicante

Catania

Malaga

Athens

Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Belgium Brussels

Denmark Copenhagen

Bulgaria Bourgas

Finland Helsinki

Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife

France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan Toulouse ■ Rennes

Croatia Dubrovnik

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart Greece Athens Corfu Hungary Budapest Ireland ■ Kerry

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona The Netherlands Amsterdam Morocco Agadir Poland Warsaw

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Switzerland Geneva Zurich

Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela

Turkey Izmir United Kingdom Birmingham London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester

■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Birmingham Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend Manchester

Sweden Stockholm

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com

AUGUST 2013

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INFLIGHT

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Edinburgh

Glasgow

Knock

BELFAST Manchester

Dublin

Birmingham

SHANNON Bristol London Heathrow

CORK

Amsterdam

LONdON GATWICK

Brussels

Jersey

Paris

Rennes

Munich

Geneva

Nice

Barcelona Palma Lisbon Faro

Alicante Malaga

Lanzarote

Tenerife

Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Flights operate from George Best Belfast City Airport

Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick

FROM CORK Belgium Brussels Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas France Nice Paris ■ Rennes Germany Munich

FROM GATWICK Portugal Faro Lisbon Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma Switzerland Geneva

United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

Ireland Belfast Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester

FROM KNOCK ■ United Kingdom Birmingham London Gatwick

Portugal Faro

The Netherlands Amsterdam ■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

126 |

AUGUST 2013

USA ROUTE NETWORK

Toronto Chicago

Boston New York

San Francisco Shannon

Dublin

Orlando

To & From Dublin & Shannon FROM DUBLIN

FROM SHANNON

USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando San Francisco

USA Boston New York

Canada Toronto

(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

Chicago Orlando

HAer Lingus is flying direct from Dublin to Toronto and San Francisco from April 2014. Aer Lingus flights are available for sale on aerlingus.com

AUGUST 2013

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inFLight

CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis Milwaukee

san FranCisCo San Jose

Oakland

Burbank Long Beach Orange County

toronto

Detroit

Burlington Syracuse Rochester

Buffalo

Portland ME

Boston Pittsburgh Nantucket Philadelphia neW York Des Moines Salt Lake City Indianapolis Columbus Baltimore Cincinnati Washington Greensboro Wichita Saint Louis Denver DuLLES Washington NATIONAL Louisville Lexington Richmond Nashville Tulsa Raleigh - Durham Las Vegas Oklahoma City Charlotte Knoxville Memphis Omaha

Sacramento

Grand Rapids

Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego

Phoenix

ChiCago

Cleveland Dayton

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Atlanta Charleston

Austin

Houston

New Orleans

San Antonio

Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aguadilla

San Juan Ponce

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO new destinations with aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United airlines and aer arann Getting to the uS from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. uS, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental uS destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers.

By choosing to fly to the united States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of united States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at

Terminal 2, Dublin airport.

This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of uS bound flights to clear uS immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon.

Customers arrive in the uS without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination.

■ neW York Connecting with JetBlue at JFk: Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

From april 3 2013, aer

Lingus flight operations will move from terminal 4 at John F. kennedy international airport into JetBlue’s acclaimed terminal 5, at JFk. ■ Boston Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan international airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure.

Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ ChiCago Connecting with United airlines at o’hare Chicago international airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your uA domestic departure point.

Passengers from the uS to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the uA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin.

■ DUBLin Connecting with aer Lingus regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final uS destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

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AUGUST 2013

edinburgh

Glasgow

Isle of Man Hamburg

Manchester

Dublin Birmingham

Shannon kerry

london

london souTHend london

cardiff Bristol

Berlin

amsterdam

HeaTHrow

GaTwIck

warsaw

dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt

paris Munich

Vienna

Geneva Milan

Malpensa

Madrid

Milan

Venice

lInaTe

rome

Barcelona

palma

Faro

Malaga

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus Regional

■ Via new YoRk with Jetblue

                        

      

                          

amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels dusseldorf edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg london (Gatwick) london (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Milan linate Milan Malpensa Munich palma paris rome Venice Vienna warsaw

Bristol cardiff edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man london southend kerry

■ Via Shannon with aer lingus  london (Heathrow) ■ Via Shannon with aer lingus Regional    

Manchester Birmingham Bristol edinburgh

aguadilla austin Baltimore Boston Buffalo Burbank Burlington charlotte chicago denver Fort lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland orlando phoenix pittsburg ponce portland Me portland or raleigh-durham

          

rochester sacramento salt lake city san diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle syracuse Tampa west palm Beach

■ Via boSton with Jetblue               

Baltimore Buffalo charleston charlotte chicago dallas Fort worth denver Ford lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans

                

oakland orlando philadelphia phoenix pittsburg portland or raleigh-durham richmond salt lake city san diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle Tampa washington (dulles) washington (national)  west palm Beach

■ Via ChiCago with united to uSa       

atlanta austin charlotte charleston cincinnati chicago cleveland

                             

columbus dallas (Fort worth) dayton denver des Moines detroit Fort Myers Grand rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville kansas city knoxville las Vegas lexington los angeles louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis nantucket nashville new orleans oklahoma city omaha orange county phoenix pittsburgh

              

portland or raleigh-durham rochester sacramento salt lake city san antonio san diego san Francisco san Jose santa ana seattle st louis Tampa Tulsa wichita

■ Via ChiCago with united to Canada      

calgary edmonton salt lake city Toronto Vancouver winnipeg

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann AUGUST 2013

| 129

INFLIGHT

Middle east and australasia route network

Dublin

Bahrain Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

FROM DUBLIN

VIa aBU DHaBI TO:

Abu Dhabi

Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bahrain Sydney Melbourne

Flights are operated by our codeshare partner, Etihad Airways.

130 |

AUGUST 2013

Sydney Melbourne

GALWAY, 18th-21st sept a family festival of hurling, irish culture & the craic hurlingfestival.com

InFlIGHt

Flight Connections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT FLIGHTS ARRIvING AT TERmINAL 2 FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s

Immigration

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

Immigration

Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check.

After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level.

Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes.

Please disembark From THe BACK oF THe airCraFT iF:

Please disembark From THe FRONT oF THe airCraFT iF:

 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

132 |

AUGUST 2013

london is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic Uk airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance

R A I LT O U R S

Cloghan Castle

IRELAND

First Class!

Book Today - Travel Tomorrow • Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty • Waterford & Kilkenny • Cork & Blarney Castle • The Giant's Causeway • The Ring of Kerry • The Aran Islands • Connemara & Galway Bay • T he W i c k l o w M o u n t a i n s ONE DAY TOURS TO Blarney Castle NINE DAY TOURS FROM and Gardens DUBLIN Cliffs of Moher

Car Free - Care Free

www.railtoursireland.com TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045 e-mail: info@railtoursireland.com

C

loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way!

Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.

Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: info@cloghancastle.com Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group Contact us for our Special Offers: www.cloghancastle.com

Your Name In

1916

OGHAM

The GPO Dublin

(old irish script) American Restaurant & Bar

in association with (Irish Rail)

A FREE APPETISER

͘ŞǺͰΫ ˔ϓͰǺϓ˔ Ǻ٫̭Ǻ͡ʍǺˠƚǺ ʍˠ ǖϓŞʳʍˠ͙ ̛Ɇ ͰΫ̾ ͰΫǺ̭ɻǺˠͰ ɞ͡ǺǺˠ

ņɶ ϝ̈ϭ˸ Ń̈͐ɶϭ

ª̬Ǹ˞ Ά Ǖij‫̾˰ ͯ٭‬μ‫ڈ‬ij˒ʄɆ̬˒ǎ ʲijΪǸ ˻̬Ǹ˞ʊ˞ɝ êϒͯ͟Ǖij‫ ͯ٭‬Ȑ̬˒ UϒʊǕǸǕ Ϊ˻ϒͯ͟ ǸٞǸ͟‫ ٭‬ɺ˻ϒ͟ ɓѐ̰Шϭ oЉɌ ͹̰͜‫ ܛ‬oˎμʿܱ ̈ʫ ‫ܛ‬͹ѐ ͐ɶ͜Ш̈͹͜ Ш˸̈ϭ Ʊɓ ḭ́͜‫ ܛ‬Ι ͐̈͜ѐШɶ ܎Ʊ̰̩ ʫϝ͹͐ vϝƱʻ͹͜ įШ

for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass

Visit Letters, Lives and Liberty in Dublin’s GPO and uncover the story of the Rising and the Irish Post Office in the place where history was made.

Terms and conditions apply

BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie

General Post Offffice O’Connell Street Dublin 1 www.anpost.ie/heritage @An PPost ost Museum - GP O Dublin GPO @An PPost ost _Museum

Order your name from Irish jewellery Designer Carol Clarke MIRV 7 Royal Hibernain Way, Dawson Street, Dublin 2, 01 6777161 www.irishjewel.com 10% DISCOUNT WITH THIS AD

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Michelin Bib Gourmand

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com

INFLIGHT

Flight Connections

at New York JohN F keNNedY airport

departures

arrivals

From April 3 2013, Aer Lingus will operate from Terminal 5 at New York’s JFK Airport.

While known as JetBlue’s T5, Aer Lingus will have its own dedicated area within the terminal, allowing for easy check in, baggage handling and seamless connections to destinations within the United States and Puerto Rico. With the move to T5, the minimum connection time from European arrivals to connecting JetBlue markets will be reduced to just 60 minutes. Customers traveling to Ireland will enjoy JetBlue connections as fast as 40 minutes.

134 |

AUGUST 2013

The award-winning, stateof-the-art Terminal 5 offers great features and amenities, including:  Up to 15 security lanes  26 gates with seats aplenty  Free Wi-Fi  55,000 sq. feet of great food and shopping  Large children’s play area and much more!

INFLIGHT

Sekonda Chronograph Men’s Dress Watch This watch has a classic design and the chromed metal case is complemented with a brown and cream dial.

The one-second chronograph and 24-hour readout are highlighted with cream sub dials. The watch is finished with a brown padded leather strap and is waterresistant to 50 metres. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Celtic Circles Pendant & Earrings Set

by Trinity & Co. This exquisite set radiates feminine beauty.

The pendant’s gold-plated shamrocks are carefully placed in Celtic circles. The matching shamrock earrings have a clear crystal for extra sparkle. Wear your good luck wherever you go.

Sekonda Crystalla Women’s Watch with FREE matching pendant A stone set case with mother-of-pearl dial is enhanced with the crystal ball cord bracelet.

This watch fits all wrists and is adjusted by pulling open the bracelet and then pulling the beaded strings to your desired size. A free matching pendant makes this set an ideal evening accessory or a perfect gift.

Guaranteed for 2 years.

Sky Shopping Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items onboard during August.

Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices philosophy all stars by philosophy

Daisy Sunshine

The best cosmetic is great looking skin. Our scientifically proven skin care is designed to give you the best skin of your life. In three simple steps you can achieve radiantly clear, beautifully bright, impeccably smooth skin.

Always be your best.

Daisy Marc Jacobs has a sparkling floral bouquet. A fragrance that transports you to a place where positive meets playful, Daisy brings a smile to your face! Sunny, happy, free.

50ml EDT by Marc Jacobs

AUGUST 2013

| 135

Trip of a life Time | mÉdoc maraThon

Grape escape

Jenny Young supped and ate her way around the Médoc wine marathon. And lived to tell the tale. unning a marathon, dressed as a pantomime paddy, while wine tasting and indulging in a buffet, is one of the most fun things I have ever done. On September 8, 2012, with temperatures soaring to 37 degrees in the French village of Pauillac in Bordeaux, my husband and I were two of 28 Irish competitors who sweated and drank our way through the 28th Marathon du Médoc. This 42-kilometre race through chateaux and vineyards consisted of more than 20 wine tasting stops for more than 8,500 runners from all over the world.

In preparation, we spent the summer training, alternating running three times a week with drinking French wine at least every second day. We decided to show our true, fun colours by dressing loudly and tackily: green running gear, leprechaun beards, green face paint, shamrock stickers and ‘Oirish’ hats. This way we would be more recognisable (and make more friends).

Arriving at the hotel the night

R

136 |

AUGUST 2013

before, we collected our race numbers and meandered into Bordeaux city, acclimatising to the heat and enjoying some last minute wine training. Many fellow runners enjoyed a pasta party and fireworks in Pauillac, close to the marathon starting point, with several wishing the next morning that they hadn’t over-enjoyed the copious amounts of free wine ... but the consensus was that it was something we should not miss next year.

At 5.30am, we joined crusaders, Statues of Liberty, cavemen, Japanese warriors, and a French maid, for an early breakfast: Flahavan’s Quick Oats microwaved by the chef. We climbed on the bus, loud and green, and quickly made friends. At the starting line, we enjoyed pre-race entertainment of acrobats and low-flying airplanes and at 9.30am the gun blasted and we all started out for the first wine stop, just three kilometres away.

Members of the YMCA ran past us dressed in leather, their ghetto blaster belting out “Macho, Macho Man”. There were people dressed as Vikings, wine bottles, grapes and

Above, Marathon du Médoc runners at Chateau Branaire-Ducru, St-Julien, Gironde, France, and Jenny Young, right.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story to an Aer Lingus destination?

Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself.

The editor’s decision is final.

gladiators. Some men just wore G-strings – less to carry in the heat I suppose?

By midday many runners were weaving, while some had crossed the finishing line – at two hours and 28 minutes a Frenchman won. Twenty kilometres and several degustations later, the pace slowed for the rest of us. The last 10 kilometres were tough; the heat, scorching.

I joined other walkers picking up discarded half-used water bottles for rehydration. But the locals’ support was really encouraging. “Allez les Irlandais!” they cheered. I passed limping competitors, determined to finish. At 39 kilometres we reached the buffet, a feeding frenzy where we enjoyed oysters, ham, cheese, beef and ice cream. A tongue-incheek beautification area 100 metres before the finishing line allowed runners to attempt to look their best for their photos. Unfortunately there was no stain remover for the dribbled wine.

I think this may be the only race where a bottle of wine is presented with your medal. And after the finishing line the party was just getting started again … On a more serious note, I would like to point out that at the ripe age of 40, we are regular runners (and wine drinkers) and had trained hard for the event.

And, fancy dress is not essential – but definitely recommended.

For more information about the Marathon du Médoc, which is on September 7 this year, visit marathondumedoc.com. aer linGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BordeaUX MON, WED, THUR, FRI AND SUN.