Cara August 2016

August 2016 CARA Magazine July 2016 Caitriona Balfe

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Irish Gardeners Belfast City Tuscany Los Angeles Montpellier Boston

l e d o M e l o R

LFE THE RENAISSANCE OF CAITRIONA BA

Edinburgh European Beach Cities

TEAM TUSCANY Two Men, One Road Trip DOWNTIME IN DOWNTOWN Los Angeles Lowdown SOUTHERN BELLE Spectacular Montpellier

NORTHERN

STAR Belfast City Sights

BLOOMING LOVELY NATIONAL HERITAGE WEEK GARDENERS

WELCOME TO IRELAND FROM AIB CORPORATE BANKING

Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248

Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219

Ireland’s No.1 Bank for Inward Investment.

AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland. As the leading Inward Investment bank, we land more international business than any other, and we’ve helped some of the world’s most recognisable brands thrive. To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.

Source: AIB has the largest market share of day to day banking relationships amongst foreign direct investment companies, Ipsos MRBI AIB Foreign Direct Investment Research, February 2014.

Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.

CONTENTS August 2016

62

Check in

Tuscan Treats

06 WELCOME The latest news from Aer Lingus 08 ARRIVALS Did we meet and greet you at Dublin Airport’s T2?

11

CHECK IN Make a date with the best arts, sport and travel events this month

24 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Panti Bliss’ roving report 26 WEEKENDER Cornish pastimes win over our Lauren Heskin 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary lowdown 30 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins is bananas for Barcelona 32

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CABIN FEVER Daragh Reddin choochooses the Belmond Grand Hibernian

LA-LA Landings

34 GAME CHANGERS Eoin Mulligan’s sports bars for Olympic ogling 36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO NEW YORK Gráinne Harte’s Big Apple bites

Features 38 HIGH TIME Patricia Danaher finds out what makes the Outlander actor Caitriona Balfe tick 46 THE GREEN PARTY Jane Powers digs deep with Ireland’s gardeners 54 NORTHERLY LATITUDE Mal Rogers’ Belfast City sights

46

62 UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN Conor Creighton’s rollicking road trip 78

Garden Army

STAR POWER All that glistens in Los Angeles by Lucy White

88 FRENCH FANCY Eoin Higgins on marvellous Montpellier

54 Belfast Bites

Regulars

Business

71

109 BUSINESS & LIFE Aine Greaney spotlights Boston Seaport

YOU SAY, WE SAY Our pick of your favourite sports grounds

98 5 BEST EURO BEACH CITIES Lauren Heskin surveys the hottest swim spots

116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Behind the scenes with artist Mags Harnett

106 48 HOURS IN EDINBURGH Owen O’Leary’s festival season favourites

118 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes’ edit of gadgets, apps, hotels and expos

125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Inflight news and entertainment

120 SLEEPS & EATS Eoin Mulligan on Birmingham’s Hotel du Vin

152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Poet Theo Dorgan’s sailing epiphany

122 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Ian Robertson’s guide for life

Welcome to BROWN THOMAS the home of the world’s leading luxury brands...

Alaïa • Alexander McQueen • Bottega Veneta Brioni • Canali • Céline • Chloé • Christian Dior Dolce & Gabbana • Ermenegildo Zegna Givenchy • Gucci • Hermès • Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs • Michael Kors Saint Laurent Paris • Stella McCartney Tom Ford • Valentino • Victoria Beckham

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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Junior Editor Lauren Heskin Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Editorial Assistant Eoin Mulligan Contributors Tara Corristine, Patricia Danaher, Aine Greaney, Gráinne Harte, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Amanda Kavanagh, Owen O’Leary, Daragh Reddin, Mal Rogers

ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Deirdre Purcell, +353 (0)1 271 9615; deirdre.purcell@image.ie Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards

Conor Creighton is an Irish writer and meditation teacher living in Berlin.

His latest book is an unreliable memoir about a young Irish man living in Germany called Strange Love Oder: Wie Ich Lernte die Deutschen zu Lieben. For this issue of Cara, Conor linked up with his old travel buddy, photographer Steve Ryan, to embark on an Italian road trip in a remarkably small and unreasonably stuffy Lancia – see page 62.

SARA DOYL

ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan

E

Jane Powers has been writing about gardens and gardening for over 20 years.

She’s the gardening correspondent for the Irish edition of The Sunday Times, and contributes regularly to both national and international publications. Her second book, The Irish Garden, was awarded the most recent Garden Media Guild (UK) “Inspirational Book of the Year”. She feels Ireland has “some of the finest gardens in the world,” so was delighted when Cara asked her to talk to the people who tend them – read all about it on page 46.

Editorial Director Jessie Collins Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Patrick Dillon Malone Directors Laura George, Robert Power, Gina Traynor, Raymond Reihill, Sam Power

Clíona O’Flaherty is a photographer focusing on lifestyle and food imagery.

She has collaborated with local, national and international brands, including The New York Times, Wall Street Journal, The Guardian (UK) and Image Publications.

Clíona was commissioned to photograph our Belfast story on page 54. Having been to the Northern capital for many assignments over the last decade, this extended visit for Cara finally enabled her “to really experience the vibrancy and offerings of this beautiful historical city.”

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9622; image.ie, email corinne.vaughan@image.ie.

Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

AO IFE HERRIT Y

PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

August 2016

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Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie IMAGE Publications Ltd PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014

Role Model

THE RENAISSANCE OF CAITRIONA BALFE

TEAM TUSCANY Two Men, One Road Trip DOWNTIME IN DOWNTOWN Los Angeles Lowdown SOUTHERN BELLE Spectacular Montpellier

NORTHERN

STAR Belfast City Sights

BLOOMING LOVELY NATIONAL HERITAGE WEEK GARDENERS

ON THE COVER

Caitriona Balfe shot by Getty Images Portrait Studio powered by Samsung Galaxy at Comic-Con International 2014 on July 24, 2014 in San Diego, California.

(Photo by MJ Kim/Getty Images)

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

CARA Magazine August 2016

WELCOME ABOARD

Aer Lingus is proud to announce the airline’s new starry status with Skytrax – and glowing new reviews on TripAdvisor. elcome aboard, and thank you for choosing to fly with us today. This month we are delighted to announce that Aer Lingus is Ireland’s only four-star airline!

Aer Lingus has received an independent fourstar rating from Skytrax, a recognised organisation within the air transport industry associated with ‘quality excellence’.

Skytrax is the leading global quality evaluation system for the world’s airline industry and Aer Lingus is now one of 40 airlines across the globe to carry the fourstar rating. Of those, we are the only one to connect Ireland with North America.

Over the last 24 months we’ve sought to really innovate and develop our product offering. This is evident in our new Business Class cabin that boasts many new key features including: fully lie-flat beds to ensure a restful night’s sleep when crossing the Atlantic; a redesigned menu serving the very best in Irish cuisine complemented by expert wines; on-board Wi-Fi and a bumper pack of inflight entertainment, comprising 120 hours’ worth of

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blockbuster feature films, boxsets and documentaries. The Aer Lingus Business Class offering also includes lounges in Dublin, Boston, London Heathrow and New York JFK, as well as our Revival Lounge in Dublin for guests who wish to freshen up after stepping off a transatlantic flight.

Before you step on board, our new website aerlingus.com and newly launched app provide a smarter and more intuitive booking process. At the airport we have invested in a new and improved check-in experience via our Premium checkin facilities and our recently launched Express Bag Drop at Dublin airport. This is supported by new boarding procedures that have been introduced to offer Aer Lingus guests the most seamless transit through the airport from the time of booking right through to taking your seat on our aircraft.

However the real star for Aer Lingus is its people – it’s our staff that ensures our guests continue to fly with us. As part of our endeavours to achieve a four-star rating we invested in training programmes to ensure we continue to deliver the service that our guests from all over the globe really value.

We know that it is their warmth and friendliness that sets Aer Lingus apart from other carriers.

The good news doesn’t stop there. TripAdvisor, the world’s largest travel review site, has added airline reviews – and we’re delighted that Aer Lingus has a four-bubble rating.

Feel free to rate your experience with us at tripadvisor.ie.

Happy flying!

Aer Lingus staff celebrating its four-star status last month: (l-r) Philip Flannelly, Laura McCabe, CEO Stephen Kavanagh, COO Mike Rutter, Tracy Johannson and Eilis Gallagher.

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Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

LONDON BRIDGING Aer Lingus offers a seamless commute – up to 18 daily flights from Dublin to London Heathrow and Gatwick, with fast trains into the city. Fly Aer Bridge.

APPY DAYS Our all new Aer Lingus app invites guests to create profiles that store all personal, travel and payment information, manage bookings, plan trips and check-in paperlessly with ease and speed.

WISCONSIN FEST Aer Lingus is delighted to once again sponsor Milwaukee Irish Fest, the world’s largest celebration of Irish music and culture this August 18-21. For the full lowdown, visit irishfest.com.

he rjmrnew

W H E R E M O M E N TS A R E T R E A SU R E D

Irish culture, cuisine, fashion and design. ´

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WHO? Mary-Ann and Victor Read FLYING TO ... Bristol MARY-ANN SAYS ...

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WHO? Jenna Ahrens and John O’Brien FLYING IN FROM ... Chicago JENNA SAYS ...

“We live in Brooklyn but we were just with my family in Chicago and now we’re visiting his!”

WHO? Rooske ten Berge and Grant Paladino FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam ROOSKE SAYS ... “He’s visiting me from the US and we decided to come to Ireland for three days and see some of our American friends.”

ARRIVALS

Backpacks and cowboy hats – Cara was at Dublin Airport’s T2 to greet the travellers.

WHO? Stefan Annen and Armin Pütz FLYING IN FROM ... Düsseldorf STEFAN SAYS ... “We’re here for one week and we have nothing booked but the car!”

WORDS BY LAUREN HESKIN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? Patrick and Eugene Egan FLYING IN FROM ... Cardiff PATRICK SAYS ... “Our ancestors are from Cork but this is my first time in Ireland.”

WHO? Tom Stephenson FLYING TO ...

Manchester TOM SAYS ... “I just flew in for work last night. I wish I had more time but what I’ve seen of Dublin has been great.”

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WHO? Gina and Morgan Peckman FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam MORGAN SAYS ...

“I’m studying in Florence so we’ve been travelling all over Europe.”

WHO? Juliana Wall and Sarah Garner FLYING IN FROM ... Cardiff SARAH SAYS ...

“We’re from Tennessee but we’ve just spent a month in Nepal teaching English and we’ve squeezed in a Europe trip before we go back.”

BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ■

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Find out what’s on, where and when in August 2016

DESIGN HOTELS

Check in

SERENE & DREAM The City of Lights has never been short of well-appointed hotels but shining brightly in Paris’ upscale Saint-Honoré district is the new Le Roch Hotel & Spa. Luxuriating between landmarks such as the Louvre, Place Vendôme and Palais-Royal, this 37-room boutique establishment offers a lesson in understated French elegance courtesy of interior designer Sarah Lavoine. Clean lines, dark wood and a quirky colour scheme up the luxe ante, as do interactive tablets enabled with frontdesk live chat and exclusive CODAGE skincare products. Snap up a “Cosy Room” from €395, or lavish in the “Indulgence Suite” with its separate living room, private patio and hammam steam bath from €825. designhotels.com

Compiled by Tara Corristine, Eoin Higgins, Amanda Kavanagh and Eoin Mulligan.

STAY

4 FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTELS

Places where little ones are entertained …

Amber Springs Hotel, Wexford

Arguably the most kid-friendly destination in Ireland, this scenic spot has enough activities to entertain even the grouchiest of young guests.

With weekend breaks packed full of mini-golf, go-karting, bouncy castles, swimming pools and a petting zoo, adults beware, your children (or even you) may never want to leave.

Double/family rooms from €160. ambersprings.ie

Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

Well-heeled families get what they pay for at this luxury property off the ChampÉlysées: a dedicated recreation manager, who can organise tailored sightseeing trips (mega science museum Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie is a must-visit for all ages); babysitting services and – cuteness alert – mini-me bathrobes. Family rooms from €1,490. fourseasons.com

Dream Gran Castillo Resort, Lanzarote

Intent on keeping its young residents entertained, this hotel features the one-of-a-kind Castleland. Decked out with a crèche, dragon-themed water park, Medieval-styled buffet restaurant and a kids’ club featuring everything from a ball pool to a mini football pitch, it’s a dream destination for parents looking for some R&R. Family/ double rooms from €295. dreamplacehotels.com

The Rubens at the Palace, London

Boasting its very own director of fun (think Willy Wonka meets the President), this grand four-star counts Queen Elizabeth as one of its closest neighbours, being situated opposite Buckingham Palace. With theatre deals, totfriendly city guides and children under 12 staying for free, it’s a great base for starting your family’s London adventures.

Grand Junior Suites from €483. rubenshotel.com

SPORT

ONE PEP AT A TIME If your only experience of a pep rally is watching the film Grease, then consider not only buying tickets to the must-see Aer Lingus Football Classic at Dublin’s Aviva Stadium this September 3 but also heading to Trinity College the day before. During game week TCD will be hosting a Welcome Village, where rival college teams Boston College and Georgia Tech are headlining pep rallies on September 2. As well as marching bands and cheerleader dance troupes, there will be the best of Irish food, drink, entertainment and the chance to buy official game merchandise. On game day, #WINNING September 3, support your team at We’re delighted to announce the village’s tailgate event, where that @Yvonne_H won our music, snacks and drinks pave Ultimate Tailgate Experience the way for kick-off in the Aviva last issue, bagging herself a at 12.30pm. Tickets to the match Tailgate Suite overlooking the are available at ticketmaster.ie and pitch, and more, in a prize follow the event on Twitter using the worth €650. Well #MuchMoreThanAGame hashtag. done!

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JOHN OWENS

FASHION

MAN-MACHINE

@TH E

New York-bound style mavens will delight in the news that The Met’s Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology has been extended until September 5. Looking at the argument between handmade, custom-fit couture and mass-made ready to wear fashion, the exhibition is home to more than 170 key pieces from 50 designers. From the sculptural work of Iris van Herpen, the eccentricity of Gareth Pugh and the show-stealing wedding ensembles

by Karl Lagerfeld, this show is simply gasp inducing. metmuseum.org

ARTS

AIR APPARENT

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Now in its 42nd year, Kilkenny Arts Festival’s new programme this August 5-14 is as diverse as its locations. Mozart’s first operatic masterpiece Idomeneo will be performed in full for the first time in Ireland since 1956 in St Canice’s Cathedral; Katena, the Architects of Air’s brand-new luminarium, above, is set to spellbind the grounds of Castle Park, while actor Stephen Rea will read from his friend Seamus Heaney’s translation of Book VI of the Aeneid in Dunmore Cave. Bonkers and brilliant. kilkennyarts.ie

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DJ BBQ FOOD

You know how the saying goes, “Where there’s smoke, there’s meat”. Or something to that effect. Follow the smell of charcoal-smoked delights to Dublin 4’s Herbert Park for the third instalment of The Big Grill Festival this August 11-14, where pit masters and craft brewers will perform demos and provide perfect pairings to happy carnivores all weekend.

This year sees Slow and Low author Neil Rankin top the bill, alongside some of the city’s best grill-based restaurants. biggrillfestival.com

PSML WILSON PEREIR A

CHILL & GRILL

EXHIBITIONS

OUTSIDER ART Two hundred years on from his birth, the exhibition Point of View brings together 10 international artists to pay tribute to Ferdinand II, the king consort of Portugal. Dubbed the artist king, he was the visionary behind the Palace and Parque de Pena in Sintra, Portugal’s magical Unesco World Heritage site. This in-situ show runs until May 2017 and invites visitors to explore and discover the park, guided by a series of strategically placed art installations. parquesdesintra.pt

GEEK PREVIEW Fantasy fans take note: Dublin Comic Con will take the city by storm August 6-7. The event will display props and costumes used in shows such as The Walking Dead, Underworld and Battlestar Galactica, host memorabilia signings, gaming areas, a costume competition and meet and greets with characters from popular screen yarns. dublincomiccon.com

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DIASPORA

EWE BEAUTIES

East London-based Dubliner Helen Delany is one half of Electronic Sheep, a seriously cool knitwear label combining contemporary illustration with a Pop palette (electronicsheep.com). Heading up the Dalston studio – their Dublin office is run by fellow designer Brenda Ahern – the NCAD graduate studied at London’s Central Saint Martin and New York’s School of Visual Arts, and has art-directed magazines in New York, Rome and London.

How would you describe Electronic Sheep? We design garments and accessories that we would like to wear ourselves. Our roots are in street style so there is a bit of a throwback too but mostly we want to get across new ideas and unexpected colours.

What have been the company’s biggest challenges to date? The fashion industry is unbelievably unpredictable so I think the biggest challenge has been to learn to go with the flow. Buyers, shops, trends and even the way we shop are changing constantly so we need to move where the market takes us and be extra flexible in the digital age.

Does Dalston live up to its hipster reputation? I think it still feels quite raw – creatives are making their mark and alternative venues are still opening up in the area. I recently bumped into [artists] Gilbert and George on Kingsland Road – I never do this but I stopped to say hello and ended up with a great picture of them. Thurston Moore from Sonic Youth is often playing at Café OTO (cafeoto.co.uk), and Dalston Superstore (dalstonsuperstore. com) is still going strong.

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DAVID POOLE

Who are your Irish design crushes? I get so many compliments on my hat by Laura Kinsella, a ponyskin top

by Giovanna Borza and Love & Robots earrings.

Where do you spend your downtime? One of the nearest pubs to the studio is called The Glory (theglory.co) and it’s a bit tempting to stay too late as they have cabaret acts and performances. But for a quieter drink, or an exhibition opening, I’ll go to the Old Shoreditch Station (jaguarshoes.com) or The Haggerston. For dinner there’s the nearby Japanese restaurant Tonkotsu East (tonkotsu.co.uk), and great Turkish restaurants further down. For weekend partying I go to Vogue Fabrics (vfdalston.com).

How does fashion in London and Dublin compare? Both have great designers working hard in a massively competitive industry. The main difference is that there is a lot more support for UK labels, with bodies such as the British Fashion Council for funding, etc. It would be great if there were that kind of investment for designers in Ireland.

There is also a lot more overlap of the two cities now – fellow Irish designers have a presence in London while maintaining their Irish roots: Simone Rocha, Natalie B Coleman, Danielle Romeril.

To which old Dublin stomping grounds do you always return?

My first port of call is to see my family for lunch at my brother’s café/wine bar Andersons (andersons.ie) in Glasnevin. For city centre music and atmosphere I love the Dice Bar in Smithfield (dicebar.com) and for gigs The Grand Social (thegrandsocial.ie), or Whelan’s (whelanslive.com).

And if I’m out very, very late I could end up in the heavy metal bar at Bruxelles (bruxelles.ie) ...

That really is my old and very first stomping ground!

Now at Dublin Airport connecting passengers can get a personal assistant It’s called DUB HUB and it’s a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight. It couldn’t be easier with:

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DUB HUB is available in Deutsch, English, Español, Français, Gaeilge and Italiano.

Simply go to dublinairport.com/dubhub or scan this code.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Take a visual tour through the most arresting news stories of 2016 at the International Festival of Photojournalism. Held in the French city of Perpignan from August 27 to September 11, the festival will exhibit the work of those brave and bold enough to document the faces behind the headlines, from child soldiers in Colombia to the refugee crisis. As well as open-air screenings of the year’s biggest stories, including tributes to Prince and David Bowie, you can also meet the people behind the lens at a series of free events including book signings, conferences and meet and greets. visapourlimage.com

YURI KOZYREV

SHOOT TO THRILL

THEATRE

PYG IN THE CITY George Bernard Shaw’s witty and wonderful Pygmalion comes to the Smock Alley Theatre, Dublin from August 2 to September 3. This classic tale from the Nobel Laureate tells of Professor Henry Higgins’ attempts to refine flower seller Eliza Doolittle, and inspired the Oscar-winning film, My Fair Lady. Historical tours of the theatre run one hour before every show and are included in the ticket price of €18. On selected evenings, a seasonal pre-show dinner with wine is available in the Banquet Hall, priced €30, and includes a ticket to the show. smockalley.com

TACO TIME Part taquiza (taco party) and part lucha libre (Mexican wrestling), there’s much to love about San Francisco’s La Lucha de La Cocina event on August 13. From the same team who brought the San Francisco Street Food Festival to life, this culinary crew know how to throw a party. Head down to Pier 70 from 3.30-10pm to see masked wrestlers perform agile and aerial moves, before taking part in judging a taco battle and sipping mescal samples as you peruse the feista’s art expo. lacocinasf.org

FESTIVAL

VENETIAN FIND The 73rd Venice International Film Festival will take place on the Lido of Venice from August 31 to September 10. Expect retrospectives and tributes to the great and the good of the silver screen, as well as documentary screenings. labiennale.org

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DISCOVER DUBLIN FROM 17 STOREYS ABOVE THE CITY

Check in

Breakfast

The Modern Pantry, London Clerkenwell has to be one of our favourite parts of London – full of history, handsome buildings and great places to eat and drink.

The Modern Pantry’s light-filled space overlooking St John’s Square is a stunning location. The breakfast menu is full of exciting Antipodean-style fusion cooking but one dish is a must: sugarcured New Caledonian prawn omelette, with green chilli, spring onion and smoked chilli sambal. It has been on the menu since they opened and is the perfect start to our day of eating and drinking. themodernpantry.co.uk

Lunch

Chez Nénesse, Paris There is a really exciting buzz around the Paris food and wine scene at the moment – great casual spots run by passionate young people but this place is entirely different. It’s a proper, family-run, old-school bistro in the Marais, where you can stand and enjoy an aperitif whilst waiting for your table, at which you will enjoy the menu du jour. On a recent trip, we enjoyed oeufs mayonnaise, followed by tripe and chips, and strawberry tart.

Expect queues of hungry locals at lunchtime but the wait is all part of the fun.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EOIN HIGGINS

Dinner

FOOD

FOOD FLIGHT

Soon-to-be-wed Peter Hogan and Jumoke Akintola run a fish ‘n’ chip shop and a seafood restaurant both under the moniker Fish Shop (fish-shop.ie), on Dublin’s Northside. Here, they take us on their ultimate fantasy grazing day trip.

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Nou Manolín, Alicante Dinner is the best time to go to this excellent tapas bar because at about 4pm each weekday, just up the road, the boats carrying the local red prawns land some of the most prized seafood in Spain. A few hours later you can be perched on a stool in the atmospheric and theatrical bar surrounding the open kitchen, tucking into those gambas rojas, cooked simply in salt on the plancha. One of the great seafood experiences. noumanolin.com

Drinks

La Venencia, Madrid At La Venencia you have a choice of five drinks, all of them sherry.

Needless to say they are all great and all the better for enjoying them in a bar drenched in history and full of characterful locals of all ages. There are some simple tapas to keep you thirsty and it’s almost impossible to spend more than €20. It’s the perfect place for drinks at any time of the day.

2015 Europe's Leading Tourist Attraction

finder

#CARA VIEW

CASCAIS “We found this idyllic beach just a short train journey away from Lisbon, in the little town of Cascais.

Literally only minutes’ walk from the train station, the beach with its crystal clear waters and spectacular views of the Atlantic, it feels like a million miles away from the city.”

Dee Duffy, Dublin; @dee_duffy

You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon daily.

CALIFORNIA “The image, ‘Pier-ing Out to Sea’, was taken at Capitola Wharf, California, in April of this year.”

Rachel Peterson, Arizona; rpstillworks.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.

LÜBECK “I travelled to Lübeck, Germany to surprise my boyfriend and this is a picture he took of me as we lounged around a lake with a bottle of wine and a lot of laughs. I am sketching a picture in my travel journal of the amazing view and memories in the making.”

Kaleina Cordova, Los Angeles; @kaleinacordova

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Hamburg daily.

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OVER TO YOU

Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder

WESTMEATH “As a Gaeilgeoir and musician, what I loved about The Gloaming’s concert at this year’s Body & Soul festival, was hearing old Irish songs being sung in a new inventive way. This was my first time hearing them and I really enjoyed being surrounded by so many of their dedicated fans. Maith sibh!”

Sinéad Frost, London @sineadainefrost

MONTPELLIER “In the summer months there is nothing more pleasant than taking a picnic to the park beside the aquaduct in Montpellier. This day was great with people having fun and playing games and instruments in the sun.”

Gail Bergeron, Montpellier

Aer Lingus flies twice per week from Dublin to Montpellier.

NEW YORK “I love Williamsburg. It’s one of my favourite spots in Brooklyn and I just love the constant evolution of street murals on all the side-streets and disused lots. I was particularly taken with this mural.”

David Walsh, Edinburgh; @davidmwalsh

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York three times daily, and from Shannon six times per week.

AERLINGUS.COM |

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Check in THE BEST CITY TO GET LOST IN IS ... Tokyo. A bustling, noisy, crowded, colourful, surprising, exhausting, fascinating, utterly modern yet simultaneously ancient, never-ending warren with a surprise around every corner.

AS KIDS WE WENT TO ... Visit our “aunt’s” family (she isn’t really our aunt, but my mother’s childhood best friend) on their big English farm in Shropshire. My strongest memory is eating crumbly Cheshire cheese sitting on prickly hay bales in the sun.

AARON McGRATH

“My three cap sule wardrobe must-haves are the three H’s: H andbag, H air, Heels. Everything else I can live without.”

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK A self-titled “accidental and occasional gay rights activist”, PANTI BLISS was proclaimed the Queen of Ireland for her impassioned “Noble Call” speech at the Abbey Theatre in the run-up to the 2015 marriage equality referendum. Pantibar’s iconic landlady is now set to perform in THISISPOPBABY’s new show RIOT at September’s Tiger Dublin Fringe Festival. She tells Lucy White about her greatest travel hits.

OUTSIDE IRELAND, THE BEST CRAIC FOR PERFORMANCES IS ...

Sydney. They are very familiar with the Irish sense of humour and they have a lively drag tradition of their own.

And Sydneysiders know how to have a good time!

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MY IDEA OF HOLIDAY HEAVEN ...

Is a cold beer and piece of chocolate straight from the fridge shoved inside a piece of crusty bread on a Spanish Mediterranean balcony in September.

And hell? “FLIGHT DELAYED”.

“Wha t’s my travel guilty pleasure?

I don’t feel guilty about my pleasures!”

THE PLACE THAT SURPRISED ME MOST WAS WHEN ... Some friends and I once rode mules down into the Grand Canyon and back up again. Despite moments of terror as you peer between your mule’s ears as it picks its way along barely there cliff paths, it was endlessly interesting, with jaw-dropping views. And all the while the big kid in you is expecting a cowboy to jump up from behind a rock and start shooting at you.

ADVERTORIAL

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DUB HUB is a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight.

6 EASY STEPS FOR CONNECTING AT DUBLIN AIRPORT 1. Listen to on-board announcements – as you taxi towards your gate on arrival, listen out for any information that the flight crew may have. They sometimes detail flight or gate changes.

3. Use Dublin Airport’s free Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB on your mobile device. No data roaming charges, downloads or login required. DUB HUB is in English, Français, Italiano, Español, Deutsch and Gaeilge.

2. Do you have your boarding card? If not, proceed to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections desk where staff are on hand to help you with any queries.

4. On the DUB HUB home page, enter your Aer Lingus flight number to get your gate number and the time you have before your flight starts to board.

USE THE DUB HUB COMPANION MAP Smartphone or tablet users can access the free DUB HUB easy connecting companion as soon as you arrive in Dublin Airport. It’s powered by Google, and will show you the quickest, easiest route to your connecting flight. Remember to use free Dublin Airport Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB without using your mobile data or incurring roaming charges.

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GO SMART | CORNWALL

Cool Cornwall

All Cornish roads lead to the sea, as Lauren Heskin discovers. hether it’s dining out in bay-buttressing restaurants, doing the downward dog along sandy shores or curling up with a nice cup of tea and a scone – buttered the Cornish way, of course – the ocean seeps into every element of life in Cornwall.

It’s no wonder the Victorian Headland Hotel played host to the child-hating sorceresses for the film adaption of Roald Dahl’s The Witches – the atmospheric building juts incongruously from the craggy clifftop beside Newquay’s famed surfing spot, Fistral Beach.

But upon arrival the only thing to make us jump is the gleeful delight of a child slapping down playing cards and shouting “SNAP!”. The revolving wooden door opens into a grand foyer where dogs doze next to roaring fires (Newquay is super petfriendly) and the sea beckons from beyond the bay windows. There’s a sense we’re already home, even before we’ve nestled into our stately sea-view bedroom.

No trip to Cornwall would be complete without a quick Celtic Sea dip. The hotel’s adjoining surf school, Surf Sanctuary, armours us for the venture, foam boards and all, and two hours of perseverance

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Stein, to its shores. We head to the former’s offering, Fifteen, which is in, or should we say on, Watergate Bay beach. A social enterprise initiative that’s part of an apprentice chef programme, the open BEACH kitchen and ever-changing TUNES menu creates a cosy dinner Boardmasters Festival party feel with top-notch returns to Newquay this later (partly ours, mostly nibbles. There’s also the August 10-14, with performances our instructor Ben’s) casual Lewinnick Lodge, from James Bay, Deadmau5 and and a millisecond of floating on a sturdy Kaiser Chiefs, as well as one of the wobbly standing, we cloud of decking over the biggest pro surf competitions exit, exhausted and Pentire headland with an on the European calendar. exhilarated, and make a oceanic menu to fit the most boardmasters.co.uk dash for the Jacuzzi in the spectacular view. hotel’s state-of-the-art spa. If I hit my fluffy pillow and am we aren’t sufficiently unwound asleep before I have time to close already, the bird’s-eye view and the blinds. However, watching the Top, the imposing Headland Hotel tranquil voice of instructor Stretch morning waves roll onto Fistral and, above, at Oceanflow Yoga certainly help Beach makes for the most pleasant pre-surf smiles. us rediscover the balance that of wake-up calls. deserted us in the sea.

Stomachs growling, it’s time to (The Headland Hotel & Spa, Newquay, go in search of something hearty +44 163 787 2211; headlandhotel.co.uk) and Cornwall has a long history with delicious cuisine, attracting chefs such as Jamie Oliver and Aer Lingus Regional flies Dublin to Newquay daily. long-time Padstow native Rick

WHAT TO PACK The Paying Guests by Sarah Waters, €18.25 at Eason stores nationwide

Ray-Ban Polar Phantos Sunglasses, €159 at Brown Thomas

Mr Zog’s Sexwax Quick Humps, €3 at surfworld.ie

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Nike runners, €116 at nike.com

| AERLINGUS.COM

Chloé Georgia Mini Leather Crossbody Bag, €750 at net-a-porter.com

100% Silk Geometric Motif Foulard, €49.95 at Massimo Dutti

GoPro Hero4 Silver, €429.99 at gopro.com

Elave Water Resistant Sensitive Sun SPF 30, €19.95 at elaveskincare.com

ARANS

s i n c e 18 23

BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS shop online @ blarney.com

BLARNEY | BUNRATTY | TIPPERARY

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican browses this month’s new reads, fascinating podcasts and literary happenings.

MORE THAN CONCRETE BLOCKS: DUBLIN CITY’S TWENTIETH-CENTURY BUILDINGS AND THEIR STORIES, VOL 1 1900-1940

EDITED BY ELLEN ROWLEY (FOUR COURTS PRESS, PBK, €24.95)

Dublin launched into the 20thcentury with large, landmark buildings: the university block at Earlsfort Terrace (now the National Concert Hall) and the Guinness Storehouse. Then came 1916, the destruction of O’Connell Street and its re-building: Clery’s, the Gresham Hotel, the Savoy Cinema. In the 1930s came the Free State housing scheme and suburban municipal buildings.

Check out these and more in this first volume on Dublin’s architectural history, featuring historical essays and 26 case studies of 95 buildings, from Inchicore to Drumcondra.

It’s an elegantly designed book, with places you’ll recognise and others, now demolished, that you might remember.

TRAVEL CURIOCITY: IN PURSUIT OF LONDON by Henry Eliot and Matt Lloyd-Rose (Particular Books, Hbk, August 25) An unusual alphabetical guide, each chapter has a handdrawn map and illustrations by artists including Chris Riddell and Steven Appleby. Explore nuclear bunkers, talking ATMs, Japanese Monkey Fish, and the airspace above the city, with essays from famous London voices: Monica Ali, Philip Pullman, Shami Chakrabarti and Iain Sinclair.

BIOGRAPHY FLÂNEUSE: WOMEN WALK THE CITY IN PARIS, NEW YORK, TOKYO, VENICE AND LONDON by Lauren Elkin (Chatto & Windus, Hbk, Kindle) An archaic term for a woman who walks the streets, observing, Lauren Elkin reclaims ‘flâneur’ for “determined, resourceful women, keenly attuned to the creative potential of the city”. Part memoir, part biography, part cultural meander, this follows iconic women walking five iconic cities.

GRAPHIC PARADISE LOST by Pablo Auladell (Jonathan Cape, Hbk, Kindle) Milton’s epic poem, charting humanity’s fall from grace, has inspired artists and writers from Gustave Doré to Philip Pullman (His Dark Materials). Now award-winning Spanish artist Pablo Auladell retells the tale of the struggle between God and Satan, good and evil, in bleak, beautiful and dark imagery, capturing Milton’s lyricism for a new audience.

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READING FEST Set in the scenic Yorkshire Dales, family-friendly NiddFestival (August 5-7) brings together poets, gardeners, ecologists, musicians, children’s writers and nature lovers of all ages in a series of lectures, readings, concerts, nature walks, bird watching and face painting. With Carol Ann Duffy, Satish Kumar, Ali Shaw and music from Mercurynominated Kathryn Williams. niddfest.com

DOWNLOAD

PODCAST AUDIO ACES Originally airing on KBOO 90.7 FM in Portland, Oregon, the home of hip, Between the Covers: Today’s Best Writers in Conversation with David Naimon favours authors who blur the boundaries and cross genres. He podcasts once or twice a month – already this year we’ve heard from Laila Lalami on The Moor’s Account, her historical reimagining of a 16th-century slave; the great sci-fi writer Ursula K Le Guin, reading from her new collection of poems, and Rob Spillman talking about his art rock memoir, All Tomorrow’s Parties.

DUBLIN ∙ LONDON ∙ CHELTENHAM Visit our website for retail partners in your area or to buy online

GO SMART | BARCELONA

5

Good Reasons

GAUDÍ A true Modernist metropolis, the city is pierced with enough precious stones to pique even the snootiest 19th-century neophiliac’s interest. From the fantasy landscape of Parc Güell in the north of the city to the sculpted beauty of Casa Milà, Casa Batlló and Casa Figueres, Antoni Gaudí has made his mark all over town. Perhaps most impressive, yet still unfinished, the architect’s Sagrada Família cathedral is a true monument of Modernist construction.

... to hop over to Barcelona.

Eoin Higgins has a ramblas.

CAMP NOU Home to FC Barcelona since 1957, the New Camp football stadium is a verified city icon. With a capacity of nearly 100,000 it is also the most accommodating stadium in the country – take that Bernabéu, Madrid. Tickets to see the venerated Barça can be purchased online at fcbarcelona.es but, if you can’t swing a ticket to a game, the hour-anda-half stadium tour is almost as exhilarating, from €25 approx.

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EATING From restaurants like Albert Adrià’s Tickets to his take on the Mexican oeuvre in eateries Hoja Santa, or Niño Viejo, BCN is a lush larder of decadent deliciousness.

There is also an abundance of edible retail morsels to pick over. Make a proper meal out of Sunday picnicking in Parc de la Ciutadella (where you’ll also find a zoo, rowing boats and a grotesque fountain) with a basketful of tasty take-away soupçons from the famous La Boqueria food market.

SMART FLIERS FATTI BURKE

MAGIC FOUNTAIN The fountain show at Plaça Espanya is the essence of Spanish spectacle. While the frequency of the event seems to change with the seasons – be sure to check out timetables online beforehand – there is typically at least one daily evening show in the summer months. Light, colour, music, water, intensity and calmness are all there to be absorbed. Particularly cheesy, yet absolutely goose-pimpling, is experiencing the display when it’s accompanied by the beauty of Freddie Mercury and Montserrat Caballé’s show-stopper, Barcelona, blaring in the background.

BEACHES Life’s a beach, or at least it can be in the capital of Catalunya, or very close by. The city’s most popular, La Barceloneta, sits alongside the neighbourhood of the same name – a working-class gem packed full of tiny apartments and family-run fish restaurants.

Further afield, the rainbow oasis of Sitges is home to 17 individual lidos. Whether you seek small, large, quiet, busy, naturist, or family-friendly, you’ll find a playa to suit your choice of bathing or birthday suit.

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BARCELONA twice dai ly, and four times per week from Cork.

wiNNER gRaMMy awaRD

osCaR FalliNg slowly

8 toNy

awaRDs

including BEst MusiCal

The MulTi AwArd-winning MusicAl coMes hoMe To dublin

hhhh The IRISh TImeS

hhhh The IndependenT

‘a love affair with music’ The new YoRk TImeS

hhhh The GUARdIAn

Once is a celebration of music, love and the city of Dublin. Full of glorious music, the show is performed by an extraordinary cast of actor musicians, who sing, dance and play their hearts out on stage. It features the Oscar-winning Falling Slowly… and the city’s only on-stage bar!

See it at home in Dublin’s historic Olympia Theatre this summer.

Now playiNg uNtil 27 august

Olympia Theatre, Dublin oncemusical.ie #OnceinDublin

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Cabin Fever

Daragh Reddin gets all-aboard Ireland’s fanciest train – the Belmond Grand Hibernian. or incorrigible romantics with deep pockets and an unquenchable wanderlust, one particular form of transport has become synonymous with luxury travel: the Orient Express. With its handsome Art Deco interiors and elegant clientele, the train, which was inaugurated in 1883 and originally ran between Paris and Istanbul, has become a byword for intrigue and sophistication, inspiring writers from Bram Stoker to Agatha Christie.

Now, thanks to ritzy hotel and train operator Belmond Ltd – the people behind the venerated Venice Simplon-Orient-Express and Royal Scotsman – Irish rail travel has finally entered an equally dashing phase. The Belmond Grand Hibernian, the first luxury touring train of its kind in this country, will be launched this month and play host to 40 privileged guests across 11 opulent carriages.

The interior design is a paean to Dublin’s Georgian architecture and each of its private en-suite cabins will feature a palette inspired by “the flora and fauna of the Irish landscape”; while an observation car, with peerless views of the Irish

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countryside, is the ideal spot to rub shoulders with your fellow martinitoting travellers.

Customers can rest assured that there will be none of the ersatz coffee and sweaty cheese sarnies they might associate with train travel. Meals have been selected to reflect the produce of the area through which the train happens to be passing, so expect everything from sublime seafood to organic beef and the finest artisan cheeses.

For its inaugural four-night journey, entitled “Legends and Loughs” (five days/four nights, from €5,420pps), the Grand Hibernian will depart from Cork and wend its way up through the spectacular coastal environs of the south-west of Ireland, with stopovers in the heritage towns of Killarney and

Top, delightfully cosy en-suite cabins designed

by James Park Associates, and above, one of the two dining cars, named Wexford and Sligo, serving an array of elevated dishes.

Westport. A considered itinerary includes an excursion to the Old Midleton Distillery in Cork, golfing daytrips and a visit to the Blarney Stone – the only tourist attraction where visitors are encouraged to get amorous with a limestone slab. The journey is rounded out with visits to the stunning Lakes of Killarney, the suitably grand Ashford Castle and a pit stop in the bohemian mecca of Galway for shopping and live music.

A second option, the “Realm of Giants” tour (three days/two nights, from €3,160pps) will begin in Dublin and head towards Belfast, taking in the Giant’s Causeway in Co Antrim, the Bushmill Distillery and, of course, the cultural behemoth that is Titanic Experience, the celebrated visitor attraction that is as much a monument to Belfast’s maritime history as it is to those who perished on the ill-fated liner. And, if money really is no obstacle, the “Grand Tours of Ireland” package (seven days/six nights, from €7,722pps) combines the “Legends and Loughs” and “Realms of Giants” options for an unforgettable getaway of Gatsbylike excess. belmond.com/grandhibernain-train

EASY RIDER

JAMES BELMONT

Hop on to the California Zephyr in Chicago and 51 hours, 20 minutes and nearly 4,000 kilometres later, find yourself in San Francisco.

The railroad trip of a lifetime, this 1949 train journeys through some incredible topography, including Colorado’s Gore, Byers and Glenwood Canyons, the deserts of Utah and California’s historic Donner Pass and High Sierra. $145 for a seat, from $500 for a roomette or from $900 for a bedroom/family suite. amtrak.com

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THE SPIRIT OF PROJECT

RIMADESIO.COM

MOON DOOR, SELF UP SIDEBOARD DESIGN G.BAVUSO

MINIMA THE WATERFRONT, HANOVER QUAY, DUBLIN 2 | D02 YN32, IRELAND TEL +353 1 6337716 - INFO@MINIMA.IE WWW.MINIMAHOME.COM

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Game Changers

FUCHSIA McAREE

Cheer on our Olympians this month at these gold-standard sports bars, says Eoin Mulligan.

SAN FRANCISCO San Francisco Athletic Club Not a fan of boisterous crowds while you’re trying to enjoy the game? Book a booth in America’s oldest athletics club and let the madness happen all around while you kick back with a so-called Bathtub of Beer – an ice-packed porcelain tub of 24 bottles, priced from $80. And so you don’t find yourself three golden fleeces to the wind, throw in some fingerlickin’ sharing snacks. thesfac.com

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LONDON Last Days of Shoreditch Open for its sixth – and final – summer pop-up, every Thursday, Friday and Saturday until August 27, this East London enclave is perfect for sports lovers and even sports loathers, such are its inclusive charms. With an array of street food, cocktail bars, XOYO club nights, crazy golf courtesy of Junkyard Golf Club and art installations from the likes of Gavin Turk, don’t forget their Rio-themed screenings of the Olympics’ opening and closing ceremonies. lastdaysofshoreditch.co.uk

DUBLIN The Back Page Starting out as a sports festival, The Back Page now has a clubhouse of its own in Dublin 7.

Show your competitive streak with weekly ping-pong tournaments, board games, foosball, PlayStation FIFA and Olympic-themed quizzes before chilling out for full coverage of the Games, all washed down with craft pints for around a fiver a pop. Moreover, the pizzas, named after footballers, are champion. the-backpage.com

BERLIN Golgatha Beer gardens and Berlin go together like lederhosen and oompah – and biergarten Golgatha is a wunderbar spot at which to raise a stein. Slide on to a bench and watch the athletes do all the hard work on big screens, or chill out on a porch swing. Throw in a very decent menu, including a barbecue, and you could easily spend all day at this sun-dappled joint. golgatha-berlin.de

NEW YORK CITY Standings Bar One of the oldest and dinkiest sports bar in the city, Standings brings crowd atmosphere to a whole new level – just 40 punters makes it full to capacity, each one glued to its eight TVs. This always-buzzy pub, riddled with sports memorabilia, serves free pizza every Friday at 8pm and Happy Hour specials five days a week. standingsbar.com

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What better way to clock up the pedometer points then an elevated walkway along the Hudson? THE HIGHLINE left, is a luscious linear park built on a historic rail line and runs from 34th Street all the way down to Chelsea. Go on a Tuesday night for some stargazing with a local astronomy club, squeezing in a bite to eat in the vast CHELSEA MARKET above, beforehand.

NEW YORK

IWAN BAAN

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

Mayo native Gráinne Harte gets under the skin of the Big Apple.

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MORE ABOUT GRÁINNE

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Visitors to New York this summer are some of the luckiest, at least those who wish to step inside a secret Central Park sanctuary which has been shut for more than eight decades. THE HALLETT NATURE SANCTUARY is a breathtaking woodland area near the CP Pond, which was closed off in 1934 to create a bird sanctuary. Now it’s re-opened – alive, thriving and ready to be explored. (Avenue of the Americas and West 59th Street)

Originally masterminded in a small Tribeca apartment, THE CLASS is the workout craze that is now sweeping the city. Think SoulCycle, with feelings. In true New York style this spiritually charged boot camp combines it all – a physical and emotional mix of yoga, cardio, synchronised movement, cross fit and therapy.

Tired yet? taryntoomey.com

From Mayo to Manhattan, Gráinne Harte moved to New York in September 2014 initially for a year, but the City has since become her home and she is continuing the adventure still. With an MA in journalism, Gráinne continues to write, but is also recruiting for many of the major NYC advertising agencies.

Avoiding tourist traps can be tricky, especially when it comes to nightlife. Hell’s Kitchen is my favourite for buzzing taverns and endless brunch spots. For a superior selection of beers, try JASPER’S TAPHOUSE or duck into McCOYS for a unique Irish dive bar experience. (jaspersnyc.com; mccoysbarnyc.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NEW YORK daily and from Shannon six times per week.

DON’T MISS

Named after the infamous “Irish Paddy Gang” leader, TANNER SMITH’S combines the city’s notorious gangster epoch with a ritzy cocktail culture, giving a cheeky Prohibition twist to classic concoctions.

(204 West 55th Street; tannersmiths.com)

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SMORGASBURG is the weekend flea market that showcases local and regional food vendors. It’s a sampler’s paradise of some of the best food in NY, all wrapped up in a buzzing atmosphere that combines hungry and hipster. (90 Kent Avenue, Brooklyn)

For a uniquely New York take on the Broadway experience, take in the strange delight that is SLEEP NO MORE at the McKittrick Hotel. An interactive entanglement of Shakespeare versus film noir. (530 West 27th Street; sleepnomore.com)

WITH NAOMI CAMPBELL

W W W. N E W B R I D G E S I LV E R W A R E . C O M #NSBlueBox

HIGH Actress Caitriona Balfe’s career has taken her from Monaghan to Hollywood via 18th-century Scotland in Outlander – and a People’s Choice Award. We catch the star before she leaves us all for dust.

WORDS PATRICIA DANAHER

C

aitriona Balfe knows all about being miserable at work while at the same time doing pretty well at it. A successful international model for more than a decade for almost all the major global designers, she could still be earning big bucks doing the same work. But her heart was never really in it, from the moment she was talent-scouted

outside the Swan Centre in Dublin’s Rathmines to when she called it a day in 2010 and moved to Los Angeles to follow her instincts.

It’s a viciously competitive world, that of the Hollywood actor, but Balfe has steadily built up a significant body of work, including co-starring with George Clooney and Julia Roberts in the recent Money Monster, directed by Jodie

Foster. She also takes the lead in break-out hit Outlander, the period drama series that has just wrapped its second season to huge acclaim on US network Starz.

People magazine put her in their “World’s Most Beautiful People” list in 2015, yet, despite the gushing plaudits, Balfe remains startlingly low key and self-effacing, taking it all very much in her stride.

TIME AERLINGUS.COM |

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INTERVIEW

"All my life I've sort of made rash decisions and moved countries many times over.

I like to embrace the unknown"

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“My reaction to things like Most Beautiful Person is, of course, that I’m flattered but also slightly embarrassed. I’m like, ‘Really?’” she says. “I have a hard time wrapping my head around those kinds of things. The people I find beautiful are the people who inspire me.

I love unusual beauty like Peggy Guggenheim, who had incredible style and taste. Gina Rowlands is also someone I think of as beautiful.

I like women like that. I like men like that. It’s not all necessarily about the Best Body or the Best Hair. I think it’s much more important to do incredible things with your life.”

There have been many incredible things in Balfe’s life. While studying communications at Dublin Institute of Technology she was headhunted by a modelling agency; at 19 she dropped out of college to move to New York, from where she would travel the world modelling for design houses including Marc Jacobs, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, Victoria’s Secret and Chanel. She should’ve seen it coming, however.

“I’ve had my fortune told a few times,” she laughs. “The first fortune teller I went to was in Dublin, near Vicar Street, and she told me the most things that have come true.

She translated one of my dreams and told me I was going to move countries and it was going to have an important effect on a relationship of mine. That all happened about six months later.

“All my life, I’ve sort of made rash decisions and moved countries many times over,” she admits. “I like to embrace the unknown. It almost stresses me out when I know too much in advance what I’m going to be doing. That always makes me wonder ‘but what if something else comes up?’”

She made a big name for herself as a model, for sure, but despite all that it offered financially, Balfe was underwhelmed. After ten years of strutting the world’s catwalks, she jumped ship from a world she describes as “vapid” to try her lot in Hollywood.

The six-foot brunette is indeed

AUDREY

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NOW ON SHOW AT THE MUSEUM OF STYLE ICONS

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INTERVIEW

striking in person but wow, how the camera loves her, picking up a luminosity that is only hinted at in person. Slender and willowy, she swears that she rarely exercises, although her Outlander role is intensely physical in that she’s in practically every scene as the timetravelling nurse Claire, who one day is inexplicably plucked from Second World War Britain to Jacobite Scotland.

She’s been living in Glasgow for more than 18 months now, having transplanted her life and her cat Eddie for the duration of the show.

Single for some time – despite persistent rumours of a romance with her co-star Sam Heughan – Balfe enjoys close, long-standing friendships from Ireland and from her modelling days in New York.

“I have great examples of relationships in my life – my parents, my brothers and sisters all have great marriages. Hopefully one day I’ll have one too. On television, I have two husbands but in real life I have none. It’s a disgrace!”

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RTÉ

Great Scott! Caitriona Balfe and Tobias Menzies cosy up in Outlander.

CAITRIONA BALFE ON ...

GLASGOW ... “The great thing about Glasgow is that is has a great music and art scene. I love to go to galleries and museums. I also try to read things that aren’t scripts. There’s no output without input and I think as an actor you need to be constantly experiencing things and embracing art and music and hopefully getting inspiration from all these things.”

AUDITIONING ... “I’m pretty much on set every day so there isn’t much downtime to read or audition and the times I’m asked to audition, it’s a scramble to try to put something on tape. It’s tough trying to give time and focus to anything new when you’re working 14 hours a day. Right now I’m reading scripts, it’s important for me to find the right project. I was lucky to slot in Money Monster with Outlander on our last hiatus and hopefully something good will come in. I’m being picky.”

WORKING WITH HOLLYWOOD ALUMNI ... “It’s amazing and surreal when you think, ‘I grew up watching Jodie, George and Julia all my life’ and never imagine you’re going to be sitting across from them working on a scene – and the minute you are, all of who that person is goes out the window and it’s just regular Jodie sitting across from you and you get down to work. You don’t feel intimidated by the idea of the person, you just get on with it.”

When asked about working with her on Money Monster, George Clooney said: “Now there’s a real star. Caitriona is an absolute delight and a real talent. It was a joy to work with her.” There is also the mutual girl crush that played out on Twitter with fellow actor Jessica Chastain, who was “bingewatching” Outlander.

“It’s always strange when you hear things like that, of people you’ve always admired or respected,” she says. “When I heard about Jessica Chastain tweeting I was like ‘Okay, cool!’ I watch all of her stuff too. Jodie Foster had seen Outlander when she cast me in Money Monster. Julia Roberts was lovely about it too.”

Balfe also starred in The Price of Desire, a film about the Irish designer Eileen Gray, directed

by Mary McGuckian. Having switched from modelling to acting at the ripe (in Hollywood terms) age of 30, she’s now taking her time with the myriad offers coming her way to set firm foundations for a long-haul career. This has also helped hone her instincts.

“I do think that coming into the profession a bit later on and having to start at the beginning led me to believe my inner voice and that, sometimes, I know what I’m doing,” she says. “Being brought up in the Monaghan countryside, I feel instilled in me that it’s more important who you are inside than how you look and, especially given my career choices, that has been a very important foundation to have.

“I’m so lucky to be playing a woman like Claire especially after going in for jobs where you would be ‘hot girl number two’ or ‘the girlfriend’ – so frustrating, especially when you are trying to get started. You want to get your foot in the door but at the same time you want to retain your integrity. You know that the characters you want to play are these strong, intelligent women like my female friends or the women in my family, so it’s rare to get given that opportunity. I feel great about it.”

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PEOPLE | GARDENERS

The Foodie WHO Frank Jesper WHAT Food gardener, Killruddery House and Gardens, Bray, Co Wicklow; killruddery.com “I studied computer programming and got a qualification,” says Frank Jesper, “but I realised I didn’t particularly like computers or being indoors. I wanted to be outdoors, in the real world, in nature.”

And that is where he has been for the last 12 years, at Killruddery, one of the oldest gardens in Ireland; the earliest parts date from around 1680. His domain is in the 19th-century walled garden, which he has been helping to restore for the last seven or eight years. The garden provides abundant produce for the café and Saturday farm market, and for the families on the estate.

“We have a very special microclimate here; there is a great big brick wall that throws back heat. We can grow things that can’t be grown in a field situation, or in most other gardens. We had salads all through the winter: endive, land cress and mustards. Our kale is just fantastic. We had more than enough last year for all of us – and the pigs! It takes the bitter edge off the Irish winter.

“There is a lot of history here. It is a very old, very productive garden. I love being connected to a piece of land and everything that means. I love the seasonal changes and the weather. I like the idea of having control over my food supply.”

WISH LIST The Eden Project, Cornwall “I love the idea of the restoration there; it’s a quarry turned into a lush paradise.”

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Green PARTY THE

Subarctic and subtropical plants are equally at home in Irish gardens, which were imported during the Victorian era. Custodians of this earthy heritage talk about tending history.

WORDS JANE POWERS PHOTOGRAPHS ANTHONY WOODS

N

ational Heritage Week is a special time, with more than 1,800 events – mostly free of charge – taking place across Ireland this August 20-28 (heritageweek.ie). Irish gardens are an important part of this country’s heritage and are world-famous for their extraordinary range of plants. Although the island is as far north as Siberia, the tail end of the Gulf Stream offers protection from extreme cold. Subarctic

and subtropical plants are equally at home here and, in some counties, there is growth all year round. In areas of high rainfall, gardens are as luxuriantly leafy as jungles.

During Victorian times, gardens here were like experimental hothouses for the new plants that were being brought in from America, Asia and the Antipodes. Those tiny seedlings are now towering trees, and many of the gardens they were planted in are thriving anew, cherished by a dedicated band of owners and gardeners.

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PEOPLE | GARDENERS

The Collective WHO Anne Marie Forbes WHAT Community development liaison and volunteer coordinator at Mayo County Council’s Jackie Clarke Collection, Ballina, Co Mayo; clarkecollection.ie The plot behind the old bank building in Ballina was known to locals as the “Secret Garden” for years. Hidden behind high walls, it was the sole preserve of the bank manager’s family. “My dad was born just two minutes’ away but neither he nor any of the other residents ever saw it,” says Anne Marie Forbes, who organises community workshops in the garden. “Many was the skinned knee he got trying to scale the wall.

We knew there was an abundance of apples inside! He was 67 years of age when he first got inside.”

That was in 2012, when Mayo County Council (which had acquired the building to house the Jackie

Clarke Collection of historical material) opened the refurbished garden to the public. The plot is just 35 by 25 metres but the design, by Axel Hens of Mitchell & Associates, incorporates lawns, seating and plant varieties native to the area. “And there is a tiny strip of meadow,” says Anne Marie. “It looks just like a Mayo field. We also have a beautiful herb patch – restaurant and café owners come down and chip away at them.

But we don’t mind because they grow so fast. Anthony Ruane, who maintains the garden, gives cuttings to the locals as well.

“The thing that delights me is the fact that it is now open to the people of Ballina and the surrounding area.

I love to see the look on their faces when they come in.”

WISH LIST Central Park, New York: “I would give my back teeth to see that, especially at Christmas.”

The Dreamer WHO Diarmuid Culleton WHAT Garden manager at Oldbridge House, Battle of the Boyne site, Co Meath; battleoftheboyne.ie Diarmuid Culleton studied business and accounting, but chose to go into horticulture – and has been running his own landscaping business since 1987. “It was always in my blood. My dad was a gardener and my brother works with me now.” The project he loves best is looking after the parkland and walled garden at the 18thcentury Oldbridge House, part of the Battle of the Boyne site. The parkland is about 40 hectares: “We maintain the grass walkways through it, and mow the large lawns for picnicking and other things.”

The walled garden, meanwhile, contains a sunken octagon within it: “We believe that it is unique in Ireland.” The whole garden has been undergoing restoration in recent years. Diarmuid is proud of the herbaceous border that he created, with the help of garden designer Rita Higgins. “We have a river of blue running through it, to represent the Boyne, with lupins, eryngiums and veronica.

“The Coddington family – who fought with William in the Battle of the Boyne – lived here until the 1970s. Now it is owned by the Office of Public Works. The estate that was closed off for years is now open to everyone.”

WISH LIST The garden at the Palace of Versailles: “I saw it in my teens but I want to see it now as a gardener.”

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PEOPLE | GARDENERS

The Descendant WHO Fred Madden WHAT Owner, manager and cook at Hilton Park, Clones, Co Monaghan; hiltonpark.ie The country house at Hilton Park has been owned by the Madden family since 1734. Its demesne includes a vast walled garden and more than 20 hectares of pleasure grounds. The parterre outside the house was designed around 1870 by landscape architect Ninian Niven, erstwhile curator of the Botanic Gardens in Dublin.

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“The view from the dining room down to Hilton Lough in the distance is as it was over 100 years ago. It stops people in their tracks,” says Fred, one of the ninth generation of Maddens to live here. In the estate’s heyday, there were 60 people living and working on the grounds but nowadays “we rely on family members, a part-time groundsman and live-in volunteers”.

Hilton Park offers luxury accommodation and sublime cooking.

Speaking as its chef, Fred says: “The abundance of vegetables, fruits and herbs that we grow for the kitchen

is every cook’s dream. All our dishes are based on what we grow and in the summer months we’re spoilt for choice.

At present we have chard, ‘Cavolo Nero’ kale, beets, various salads, radishes, artichokes and baby carrots – plus every herb known to man. We also grow all our own flowers for the house.

I’m very lucky to have a mother who loves nothing more than to spend every waking hour tending plants.”

WISH LIST Áras an Uachtaráin in the Phoenix Park, Dublin: “I’d love to visit here to see Mr Niven’s other work.”

The Reveller WHO Marie Kelly WHAT Head gardener, Woodville Walled Garden, Kilchreest, Co Galway; woodvillewalledgarden.com Marie Kelly came to lend a hand with a snowdrop event at the walled garden at Woodville over three years ago and stayed on to become the gardener. The historic, half-hectare enclosure at the foot of the Slieve Aughty mountains “really has some fabulous soul”, she says. “I felt it as soon as I walked into it.” Restored between 2005 and 2009 by owner Margarita Donohue, it is a place of billowing herbaceous borders, fragrant roses, productive kitchen plots and an 18th-century dovecote.

Marie says: “Woodville is special

because of its age. There is a date stone in the arch that says 1750. It’s so atmospheric: walled gardens give you the feeling of being in a cocoon. You are protected.”

Plants are protected too – and growth is constant in the wet climate. “The hardest part of my job is maintaining order in the face of Irish weather, especially here in the west of Ireland.” And the best part is “meeting fabulous people every day: the most fantastic gardeners, from complete novices to experts. Everyone has something to share.”

WISH LIST Trompenburg Tuinen & Arboretum, Rotterdam: “There is a wonderful collection of heritage daffodils there.”

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PEOPLE | GARDENERS

The Toiler WHO Elizabeth Temple WHAT Owner, Salthill Gardens, Mountcharles, Co Donegal; donegalgardens.com When Elizabeth Temple and her family moved to Salthill House in 1984, there was not much left of the 18th-century garden hidden behind their home: “It was really just a field with a wall around it. The wind would hit the walls and bounce back.

Everything was shivering: so much emptiness and such heavy soil. It was so hard to get anything to grow.”

Matters improved when she and husband Lynn (who runs Magee, the Donegal tweed company) found and restored the 18th-century drains.

Little by little, she made a garden – with almost everything grown from cuttings, divisions or seed. “I am patient, so that was not a challenge.”

She is also a hard worker, spending hours outside in all weathers: “During the winter it is a discipline to go out and cut back and tidy, and to do a bit of digging to expose the soil to the frost so that it can get broken up.”

Now, with the benefit of three decades of growth – including shelter belts of trees – the garden is a lush haven, despite being just a stone’s throw from Donegal Bay and its salt-laden breezes. “It’s always quite gentle, never very dramatic. But every three or four weeks, things are different. It’s like a piece of music: it doesn’t stand still.”

WISH LIST The gardens at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, Nice: “They’re very formal, in complete contrast to mine!”

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In Ireland

rsa.ie

DESTINATION | BELFAST

Northerly latitude This year is the Northern Irish Year of Food, and there’s plenty of brio to feast on in Belfast.

WORDS MAL ROGERS PHOTOGRAPHS CLÍONA O’FLAHERTY

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Chasing rainbows at the Metropolitan Arts Centre (MAC), opposite. This page Gareth McCaughey of The Muddlers Club.

DESTINATION | BELFAST

In

a notably grave breach of social etiquette way back in 1573, the Earl of Essex invited 300 members of the ruling O’Neill clan to a feast in Belfast Castle. Then, just as the nibbles were being cleared away, he had them all killed. This was, as you might imagine, no blueprint for good community relations. But the unfortunate incident was a foretaste of things to come – one thinks particularly of Game of Thrones, which specialises in carnage on an industrial scale. The Throne itself, indeed the very headquarters of the most successful TV series ever made, sits in the Paint Hall studios in Belfast. The scary HBO production is extensively filmed in a corner of the former Harland and Wolff shipyards, as well as at locations about Northern Ireland – G-of-T tours depart from outside the Belfast Visitor Centre (9 Donegall Square North, +44 28 9024 6609; visitbelfast.com), if you think you’re hard enough.

When it comes to drama, Belfast has plenty. Maybe it’s the setting – few cities have a more extravagant backdrop. The huge volcanic outcrop of Cave Hill rises

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Land ahoy!

Scenes from the Titanic museum, above.

in such outré fashion that Jonathan Swift passing by said, hang on a sec ... that looks a bit like a sleeping giant. No guesses for what he scribbled down, under the heading “Travels – Belfast”.

Great stories, heroic and tumultuous, lurk round every corner. The Industrial Revolution turned the city into a mighty manufacturing base – shirts, ciggies, napkins and, of course, ocean liners. An account of the goings-on of the world’s most famous ship since Noah’s Ark is explored from every angle in the eye-catching building that is

Anticlockwise from below, The OX; Stephen Toman at The OX; dishy fish at The Muddlers Club; Orla Dowds Roddy at The Muddlers Club; blue notes at Holohan’s; Cathal Duncan (head chef) and Charlotte Noren at Hadskis, and one of their incredible edibles.

EAT AT …

LOCAL Chef Niall McKenna’s creation Hadskis in the Cathedral Quarter, features a menu that runs from refined rustic to elegantly exotic. Try the likes of the champ – mashed potatoes, scallions, butter – accompanied

by Clonakilty black and white pudding. This should qualify as a World Heritage dish, were such an award available. Wash it down with a Belfast Blonde or a Barney’s Brew – both craft creations from the estimable Hilden Brewing Company in Lisburn. (33 Donegal Street, +44 28 9032 5444; hadskis.co.uk) BISTRO Renowned chef Gareth McCaughey’s The Muddlers Club is a buzzy bistro serving the likes of white onion soup with smoked haddock and curry oil. The kitchen area is in full view of diners, with the staff calm and relaxed – it seems you don’t have to shout and swear, and there's no “Oui chef, non chef, and please don’t hit me with that leg of mutton, chef”, in order to produce cutting-edge, mouth-watering dishes. (1 Warehouse Lane, +44 28 9031 3199, themuddlersclubbelfast.com) UPMARKET In a city that now boasts a dazzling gastronomic map, top table is OX, jointly owned by Alain Kerloc’h and Stephen Toman. Their combined endeavours have turned an old dockside building into a Michelinstarred restaurant, stripped down for action.

If you (wisely) go for the seasonal tasting menu, you’ll find the likes of asparagus and smoked potato alongside meltingly-good Mourne mountain lamb. Dishes are prepared creatively and offer something sweet, savoury, earthy, crunchy, soft, aromatic and spicy – sometimes all within the same dish. And as for the wine list they have loads of esoteric beauties. You will be led into temptation. (1 Oxford Street, +44 28 9031 4121; oxbelfast.com) AERLINGUS.COM |

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DESTINATION | BELFAST

SMART TIPS Féile an Phobail, August 3-14 Music (of many hues),

ELLY WALTON

concerts, dramas, debates, discussions, exhibitions, walks, tours and sports are all featured at this massive community festival in Belfast’s Gaeltacht Quarter. Plenty of impromptu sessions too.

Expect a knees-up of pagan abandon. feilebelfast.com

Belfast Mela, August 27-2 8 The Mela festival, combining dance, food, fashion, street theatre, circus and carnival from across the world, takes place in the verdant surroundings of the Botanic Gardens in the Queen’s Quarter. The festivities are set amongst the garden’s many horticultural A-listers. belfastmela.org.uk

Left, Emir Holohan of Holohan’s.

Below, a lipsmacking lunch at Established Coffee on Hill Street, in the Cathedral Quarter.

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Titanic Belfast (titanicbelfast.com). Hitting the iceberg required a rigorous application of Sod’s Law – and indeed everything that might have gone wrong with this floating Downton Abbey did so. To find out more, take a Wee Tram (weetram.com) tour of the entire Titanic Quarter. Sites include the SS Nomadic, which served as a tender. The HMS Caroline, a First World War cruiser, is moored alongside. The only survivor from the Battle of Jutland, the restored Caroline is the definitive display of matters nautical.

Just south of the Titanic Quarter beside the elegant Waterfront Hall (coffee, concerts), canal boat Holohan’s (1 Lanyon Quay, +44 28 9023 5973; holohansatthebarge.co.uk) provides an excellent vantage point to watch as pillars of mist drift silently across the River Lagan. As they catch the great cranes of the shipyards, it’s easy to imagine the Titanic slipping anchor and sailing out into the Irish Sea. This rugged old seaport, with a history for which the kindest word would be “eventful”, has one undisputed glory. Sandwiched between its time-darkened buildings stand some of the world’s finest pubs, not least the singular hostelry that is the Crown Liquor Saloon (46 Great Victoria Street, Belfast, +44 28 9024 3187; nicholsonspubs.co.uk). Many of the luxury fixtures

SHOP AT ...

CHOCS Aunt Sandra’s Candy Factory, left, is a unique confectionary shop where much of the sweets, chocolate and fudge are made by hand to traditional recipes, some dating back more than a century. It’s the sort of place you want to push a note out of the window saying “I’m locked inside a chocolate factory ...

DON’T SEND HELP”.

(60 Castlereagh Road, +44 28 9073 2868; auntsandras.com) EDGY Studio Souk is stuffed with everything from major art works to cheeky little knick-knacks. Linzi Rooney’s creative hub in the city centre features recycled treasures, artisan crafts, local fashion designs, breezy artwork and funky furniture. Local artists, jewellers and artisans, painters and cabinet-makers, designers and dealers all exhibit their wares here, including beautiful paintings from Órlaith Cullinane and ceramics from Siobhan Steele. Other names include Owly Boutique, Ballyshore Pebbled Art, Armstrong’s Twisted Fish, NearyNogs. Yes, it sounds vaguely like an indie band gig but they produce some of the most imaginative swag you’ll find in these islands. (27 Castle Lane, +44 28 9031 9801; studiosouk.com)

and fittings destined for the Titanic ended up in this outrageously beautiful pub – appropriated by shipbuilders discharging their bar bills in novel fashion.

But you don’t have to be a riveter or plate-welder to appreciate that a well-poured pint in this Victorian gem is the perfect way to start the day. Sorry, evening.

The past crops up everywhere in Belfast, with many experts in the field. So when the barman at White’s (Winecellar Entry, + 44 28 9031 2582) tells you they received their first liquor licence in 1630, “the year before work on the Taj Mahal began”, you’re inclined to believe him. Nearby the Harp (35 Hill Street, +44 28 9032 9923; harpbarbelfast.com) presents live music nightly. Van Morrison, not a man much given to popping in, pops in from time to time to play an impromptu gig.

The cultural heartland of the city is the Cathedral Quarter, Belfast’s old warehouse district surrounding the impressive St Anne’s Cathedral. The cobbled streets are today lined with all manner of frippery from

City of angles – Belfast's Waterfront Hall, above.

CLASSY At Maven, above, sisters Catherine and Patricia McGinnis sell both emerging and established brands. They are stockists for Belfast potter, sculptor and ceramicist Derek Wilson’s work, which is at the cutting edge of contemporary design. Maven also stocks Ekotree Irish hot water bottles, Mourne Textiles – handloom-woven gear from a family-run outfit at the foothills of the mountains, and Donna Bates Design lighting and furniture from the Co Down company. Plus many more local and international wares. (4a Maryville Avenue, +44 28 9066 5176; wearemaven.co.uk) AERLINGUS.COM |

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DESTINATION | BELFAST

SLEEP AT …

OPULENT A grand 19th-century Grade A listed building has been transformed into the lavish and classically styled Merchant Hotel, above, that provides terrific shelter for the night. Five-star elegance and luxury, with rooms as big as meadows – the place oozes city chic. This is just about the top place to lay your head in town. Rooms from £200. (16 Skipper Street, +44 28 9023 4888; themerchanthotel.com)

clubs to cafés, and notably the Metropolitan Arts Centre (10 Exchange Street West, +44 28 9023 5053; themaclive.com). This stunning asymmetrical tower of brick and volcanic stone houses art installations, performance spaces, experimental works and endless goings-on. All sorts. Oh Yeah (15-21 Gordon Street, +44 28 9031 0845; ohyeahbelfast.com), founded by, amongst others, Snow Patrol’s Gary Lightbody, is the place for local bands. St George’s Market (Oxford Street/May Street, +44 28 9032 0202) is where Belfast folk have been “getting their messages”, ie shopping, since 1896. The old covered Victorian weekend market features local producers and traders. Friday is (mostly) food, Sunday arts and crafts. Saturday is bling day, with the stalls groaning with everything you might conceivably want and, to be fair, much you don’t. If you’ve ever fancied buying a Czech army greatcoat (large size only) while supping a pint of Guinness, make a beeline here.

The novelist James Owen Hannay declared in his autobiography, “I was born in Belfast and brought up to believe that, like St Paul, I am a citizen of no mean city”. Dark, dramatic, rollicking Belfast remains today, no mean city. This extraordinary place provides loads of cultural brio, oodles of eating and drinking opportunities, and live entertainment by the barrowload. It will undoubtedly seduce you too.

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You can buy everything you need and everything you didn’t know you needed at St George’s Market, above.

TOP-DRAWER DIGS The Fitzwilliam Hotel, above, is a stylish bolthole in the city centre. Rooms are luxurious and foxy, coming with all manner of digital devilry – 26-inch flat screens, iPad docks, mini Sony music system with iPod/MP3, free high speed Wi-Fi. Breakfasts are legendary – you could have cornflakes wrapped in salmon should the fancy take you. Rooms from £110. (Great Victoria Street, +44 28 9044 2080; fitzwilliamhotelbelfast.com)

FUNKY Malmaison have a philosophy of turning formerly unsuitable premises (brothels, prisons) into offbeat, luxury boutique hotels. The Malmaison Belfast, above, is a former seed warehouse, refurbished to within an inch of its life. The soft-focus boudoirs with their suave boutique decor almost demand you get up to no good. Rooms from around £95. (34-38 Victoria Street, +44 28 9600 1405; malmaison.com)

Best 100 Shops Outside London

Avoca Mill & Tour Café, Store, Weaving Mill & Visitor Centre Avoca Village Co. Wicklow

Avoca Kilmacanogue HQ, Cafés, Food Market, Garden Centre & Store Kilmacanogue Bray, Co.Wicklow

Avoca Suffolk Street Café, Food Market & Store Suffolk Street Dublin City Centre

Avoca Malahide Castle Café, Foodmarket & Store Malahide Co. Dublin

Avoca Powerscourt Café, Food Market & Store Powerscourt House Enniskerry Co.Wicklow

Avoca Rathcoole Café, Food Market & Store Rathcoole N7 Naas Road Co. Dublin

Avoca Letterfrack Store Connemara Co. Galway

Avoca Monkstown Food Market & Salt Café Monkstown Crescent Co. Dublin

Avoca Moll’s Gap Café & Store Kenmare Ring of Kerry Co.Kerry Mount Usher Gardens Café, Foodmarket & Store Ashford Co. Wicklow

CITY BREAK | MURCIA

Tuscan Tour Pisa is so much more than the Leaning Tower – it is also the gateway to Tuscany. So fill up your Lamborghini, or Lancia, for a road-trip of Florence, Siena, the Cinque Terre and Manarola.

WORDS CONOR CREIGHTON PHOTOGRAPHS STEVE RYAN

Rocky romance – the Cinque Terre makes for a dreamy layover on a Tuscany road trip.

DESTINATION | TUSCANY

Florentine fancies – left, the Ponte Vecchio over the river Arno and, below, the decorative Duomo. Opposite, clockwise from top left, Pisa’s tower; gorgeous gelato; vin o'clock; A-list butcher Dario Cecchini.

Bottom right, coastal Florence.

ritish comedians Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon took a road trip from Genoa to Naples and turned it into a popular TV series and, in 2014, a movie spin-off, The Trip to Italy. Along the way they ate at famous restaurants, traced the tracks of Byron and Shelley and found themselves entangled in all number of romantic dalliances. It made for great television. Myself and photographer Steve Ryan decided to do our own version to acknowledge Aer Lingus’ new Dublin to Pisa route. We’d land in Pisa and drive in a big circle

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PISA three times per week.

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covering north and south Tuscany and La Cinque Terra – but our conversation would be more Roddy Doyle than the Romantic poets and our dalliances would be limited to smiling pathetically at gelato girls in order to get bigger scoops.

We began in Pisa, a town that doesn’t get much of a look in. There is more to it than the tower and you can find a nice rocky beach just outside but, when measured against dazzling Florence, Pisa is little more than the cousin from the country, yellow teeth, mucky shoes and last season’s haircut.

Florence is consequentially popular. The game there is cat and mouse. The cats being the hordes of tourists and the mouse being you, if, like me, you like to try to get away from large, slow-moving crowds.

Florence is famous for its baseballcapped throngs and the queues to get into its attractions, chief among them the Uffizi Gallery (Piazzale

degli Uffizi; uffizi.org), the Duomo (Piazza del Duomo; museumflorence. com) and Piazzale Michelangelo.

Last year, for example, an attempt was made to ban selfie sticks within the city walls because of the annoyance factor. But you can’t outlaw narcissism, especially if you’re the country that invented it. Seek and you shall find quiet corners in Florence. Try Nikos’ place in Piazza del Grano. Nikos is from Crete and his hole-in-the-wall taverna is a place

EAT AT …

ICES Ever wondered how gelato was made? Did you, like me, imagine there was some gelato fairy who just filled the metal trays every morning? At La Vecchia Latteria in Siena you can watch the dazzling process of turning milk and sugar into gorgeous gelato. You will, of course, encounter gelato at every corner in Tuscany and you’ll slowly realise that while it’s all good, some of it is even better. La Vecchia Latteria is the best gelato I’ve ever eaten. (Via di San Pietro, +39 347 474 6448) HOMEGROWN Agriturismo is a new way of eating how everyone ate once upon a time. Farms open up their kitchens so locals can come in and eat what they’ve produced. At Scarlino’s Il Cerro Sughero that means everything, apart from the coffee beans in your espresso, comes from the adjoining fields. Meals are prepared depending on what’s in season. And if you indulge a little too much in the digestivos there are rooms to rent upstairs. (Podere Il Bottonaio, +39 339 715 5611; ilcerrosughero.com) RISOTTO The risotto is a winter dish in Italy.

You might as well be wearing socks and sandals if you order it on a hot day. But because Tuscany is mountainous, they play by different rules.

The gorgonzola and zucchini-flower risotto is considered by locals to be the best risotto in Siena. And if you’re thinking superlatives come cheap in this part of the world, you’d be right, but the best still means it’s molto, molto delizioso – at Siena’s Osteria Il Ghibellino. (Via dei Pellegrini 26, +39 0577 288 079)

where you get to hear the CONOR true Florentine dialect and SAYS humour in action. A glass “I know that a car is a of wine at Nikos costs reflection of your manhood, €150. A bicchiere (beewomanhood, boyhood and so on key-era) costs €1.50. but, take it from someone who has Mornings are golden driven both a Volvo station wagon in Florence. A jog along and a Smart car in Italy, the smaller the river at 7am when your hire car is, the easier to park, it’s just you, the street drive, manoeuvre through sweepers and the ghosts of ancient streets built for Renaissance Italy is either donkeys.” preciosa or disastro depending upon how much wine Nikos served you the night before.

When I was growing up our butcher was a scary man who’d grumble when you’d ask him for dog bones, before tossing you a piece of skeleton covered in AERLINGUS.COM |

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DESTINATION | TUSCANY

SLEEP AT …

FLORENCE Antica Torre di via Tornabuoni 1, above, is in a 13th-century building originally owned by the Medici family, although what didn’t they own in Florence at one stage or another? Perched right on the water with a rooftop view of the Ponte Vecchio, the Antica Torre is a tasteful, historic hotel with balconies covered in Florence’s signature plant, jasmine. Rooms from €230.

(Via de’ Tornabuoni 1, +39 055 062 1101; tornabuoni1.com) SAN DONATO IN COLLINA The Fattoria Torre a Cona is a villa surrounded by vineyards, olive trees, rolling hills and hairpin roads. You can stay in very attractive hilltop bungalows with large kitchens and living rooms. When you tire of the views on land, you can experience life under water in the outdoor swimming pool.

Local chefs run occasional cooking courses and come along to cook at the vineyard itself. One-bed apartments from €150 a night in the “extra high” season. (50067 Rignano sull’Arno, +39 055 699 000; torreacona.com) SIENA For a small city, Siena is architecturally quite tall. The buildings rise with the hills and the Grand Hotel Continental is no different. As a result the terracotta-roofed views from its superior rooms on the top floor are impressive. The 66 |

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breakfast room, with its profoundly arched ceiling, gives the impression that you’re buttering your toast in a cathedral. Rooms from €333. (Via Banchi di Sopra 85, +39 0577 56011; grandhotelcontinentalsiena.com) SCARLINO A modern development just north of Grossetto, the Resort Baia Scarlino offers large and comfortable self-catering apartments overlooking the marina. There are two beaches within walking distance and shops and restaurants beneath the apartments. You can also rent a SUP, which is more popular than a summer romance in Italy at the moment. Rooms from €296. (Lungomare Garibaldi, +39 0566 866 117; marinadiscarlino.com) MANAROLA Arbaspàa offers small, comfortable apartments with cooking facilities throughout the town of Manarola and La Cinque Terra. Space is at a premium here – just look at how they build along the cliffs – but the town is so small that no matter where you are, you’re not far from the heart of it. Locals, who own the apartments but rent them in high season, might even drop by to give you an impromptu history of the area. Apartments from €65.

(Via Molini 11, +39 0187 760 083; arbaspaa.com)

Oh, Siena! The imposing Torre del Mangia, below.

Clockwise from right, a Sienese snack shop; the Leopoldo II di Lorena statue in Grosetto; light lunching at the vineyard villa Fattoria Torre a Cona; farm fresh agriturismo produce.

yesterday’s sawdust. Dario Cecchini, of Antica Macelleria Cecchini fame (Via XX Luglio 11, Panzano; dariocecchini.com), is nothing like that. He’s an eighth-generation butcher who has reinvented the art of rendering dead animals into meat by turning it into an arte dramatico. His shop and adjoining restaurants are mad houses of wine, AC/DC, sharp knives and smoke. He counts Jamie Oliver as a friend and his one love outside of his cleavers is Bushmills and, by association, the Irish. “A people who can make a drink as fine as that are okay with me,” he says.

Dario Cecchini is a celebrity butcher. While we were passing through, TV crews from Germany, France and Japan were waiting in the wings. Women of all ages, from America to Korea, hung on his every word as he wiped bloody fingers across his apron, and it reminded me of the George Bernard Shaw

quote that Italians like to translate and pin in their kitchens: “There is no sincerer love than the love of food”.

Dario is based in Panzano, a stop-off on the road south to Siena.

You can’t see the wood for the trees but in Siena you can’t see the architecture for the buildings. The city is built like an ant colony and you get the impression that you’re constantly being looked down on from above. The best way to take it in is to climb the stairs of the unfinished cathedral facade at the top of the Cathedral Museum (Piazza del Duomo 8; operaduomo. siena.it). It’s unfinished because 700 years ago they ran out of money.

Siena is an ornate, slow-moving, gated city. There are cats on the street which walk around like they own the place, waltzing between the many tourists lying on their backs in the great bowl-shaped square.

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DESTINATION | TUSCANY

A pretty vista en route to Cinque Terre, left, and grape’s progress at the Fattoria Torre a Cona, below.

and Steve that on our plastic shovels one night there and buckets.

BLAZING we got roaringly The motorway SADDLES drunk. The may sit within The second and last Palio blame lies skimming di Siena this year takes place squarely at distance of on August 16 – it’s the most famous the feet of the water city-centre horse race in the world. three young but this is no As per its July predecessor, the local boys Pacific Coast gallop takes place in the Piazza del and the Highway.

Campo and lasts about cocktail bar – North of Pisa a minute and a half. So Da Trombicche is La Cinque don’t blink.

(Via delle Terme Terra and its 66) – they had famous tiny fishing opened 11 days before ports carved into the our car hit town. We asked cliffs and houses, painted in them for the bar’s most popular shades of earth. We stay the night cocktail but hadn’t realised that in Manarola. It’s small, romantic they hadn’t decided yet and so and melancholic in the way all last served us three. Any child knows night destinations ought to be. One it’s rude not to clean your plate last, medium-bodied, dry, earthy and adults should apply the same Chianti, one last entanglement platitude to martini glasses. Da with spaghetti and one last sunset Trombicche bristles with the energy over the Mediterranean sea before of a new venture and the naivety of pointing our small, rented Lancia youth. Get there soon before they inland, muttering a prayer to realise they’re undercharging for the traffic gods and driving to their cocktails.

Pisa airport.

In the morning, not so early, we left Siena and drove east towards CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO the sea. As you approach the Tuscan THANK CARTRAWLER FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. coast, the shop window displays FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM. transition from cured pig legs to 68 |

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MUST DOS THE DRIVE La Cinque Terra’s coastline remains largely untouched because it’s largely inaccessible to mass tourism. No coaches can make the trip but a small hire car can. The relentless hairpin turns and numerous sheer drops on either side mean the driver doesn’t get much time to appreciate the view but the passengers certainly do.

THE WINE You don’t visit Tuscany for beer. The land, when not covered in soaring pines, is almost exclusively planted with some of the best vines on the planet. At Fattoria Torre a Cona (see ‘Sleep at’, page 66) you can

meet the vines, salute the farmers, rap your fingers on the great oak barrels in the cellar and then sit down to a plate of fruit, cheese and meats that complement their award-winning merlot and Chianti.

THE DIVE There’s no beach at Manarola, instead there are rocks, huge rocks, that jut out of the water like great stone animals. You can climb them, as many people do, and then jump, as some people don’t, into the dark, deep water below.

Whether you decide to spring like a gazelle or crawl back down again like a wounded crab, the Italians are not judgemental.

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You say, we say ...

SPECTACULAR SPORTS SITES

for winning days out

Our edit of your best arenas, stadiums and more.

I

1 DONAL MURPHY

f you’re a sports fan then this summer has been pure gold – and it ain’t over yet. From the UEFA Euro to Wimbledon, this month’s Olympics and cricket to September’s Ryder Cup, there is a tournament to grab the attention of patriots and couch pundits everywhere.

Individual sports grounds are beloved destinations of loyal supporters. In Ireland alone the hallowed greens of Croke Park, Thomond Park, Richmond Park, The Showground, Galway Sportsground, Semple and Aviva stadiums were all heralded on Twitter and email, and rightly so.

And further afield you championed Paris’ Parc des Princes, Orlando’s Amway Center, Boston’s Fenway Park and New Jersey’s MetLife Stadium.

Whether this loyalty comes from misty-eyed, childhood memories of cheering from the stands, flags and fists aloft, or from having discovered a “new” non-native sport while on holiday, you are passionate about your teams’ turf. Here’s our running order of your favourites.

Aviva Stadium, Dublin Formerly Lansdowne Road, the Aviva stadium is the home ground for both the Irish soccer and rugby teams. Reopened in 2010 after a complete rebuild, the stadium is well bedded into its leafy Dublin 4 suburbs. Designed with a dip at its northern end, it offers a sneak peek of the Dublin’s cityscape in the distance, reminding you in the heat of the action that you’re also in the heart of the capital.

This September 3 the Aviva plays host to the Aer Lingus College Football Classic (collegefootballireland.com) as two titans of American college football, Boston College and Georgia Tech, take the field. avivastadium.ie AERLINGUS.COM |

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2

Wrigley Field, Chicago

CHICAGO CUBS

SMART EDIT | SPORT

There’s been a baseball diamond between Addison Street and Sheffield Avenue since the First World War, and this year the Chicago Cubs celebrate a century at Wrigley Field (so-called after its once-owner William Wrigley Jnr of chewing gum fame). Nicknamed “The Friendly Confines” in the 1930s because the Cubs were deemed “too friendly” to beat rival teams, there’s still a cheery sense of competition at this iconic venue where ivy continues to decorate its outer walls. chicago.cubs.mlb.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Chicago up to twice daily.

4

City of Manchester Stadium

Built in 2002 for the Commonwealth Games (the largest multi-sport event ever held in the UK at that time), this stadium was later leased to Manchester City FC – attracting the attention of the Abu Dhabi United Group. Now known as the Etihad Stadium and home to one of the world’s most lucrative football clubs, it has also hosted test rugby and Ricky Hatton’s world light-welterweight title fight. mancity.com

3 Curragh Racecourse, Kildare Named “Curragh”, the Irish term for “running horses”, these flatlands – among the oldest glasslands in Europe – are home to the governing body of horse racing in Ireland, its 1,970 hectares surrounded by training stables, including the National Stud. This month it hosts the Keeneland Phoenix Stakes, along with a free family day, on August 7. curragh.ie

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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Manchester up to five times daily, and from Cork up to three times daily.

Looks like it might rain, so your gait increases a little but you smile, knowing that’s not the real reason. Not at all, you’ll soon be home.

Well, home-from-home. You’ll soon be in the elegant embrace of your favourite bar & café in Dublin: The Bailey.

bailey Your favourite bar & bistro in Dublin

Duke Street, Dublin 2, Ireland

Gee but it’s great to be back home, as the song goes. Home from home for so many is here, at The Bailey, that famous, well-loved, incredibly stylish, always welcoming bar and bistro on Duke Street, just off Grafton Street. Gee but I bet you can’t wait to call it home.

T. 01 6704939 www.baileybarcafe.com

SMART EDIT | SPORT

5

London Aquatics Centre One of the most recognisable structures from 2012’s London Olympics, Stratford’s Aquatics Centre was designed by the late, great architect Zaha Hadid – and is where Michael Phelps made history as the most decorated Olympian of all time. The swimming facility reopened as a community leisure centre in 2014, retaining two 50-metre pools, a 25-metre diving pool and platform, and so you can swim in the wake of the champions, using the original starting blocks and lane ropes from the Games. londonaquaticscentre.org

Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow, and daily flights from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.

York Hall, London The spiritual home of British boxing, the grade II listed building in Bethnal Green was originally opened as public baths in 1929 by the Duke of York. The grand hall, with its lofty arched skylights, became a boxing venue in the 1950s and has seen the likes of Lennox Lewis, Chris Eubank and David Haye hand out body blows in this most scared of boxing grounds.

Meanwhile, its Turkish baths were rebranded in the Noughties as an upmarket spa and gym.

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©INPHO/Billy Stickland

7 Thomond Park, Limerick Home to some of Ireland’s most fervent supporters, Munster Rugby’s Thomond Park is an ode to the fans who have followed the team throughout the pro-sport’s peaks and troughs. The roar from captivated observers can be heard across the city of Limerick – particularly during an inter-pro with its neighbour to the east – and the hustle and bustle of the standing sections are a rite of passage for any young Munster fan. thomandpark.ie

GLL/BETTER

Madison Square Garden, NYC

8

We dare you try to make a swift exit for the 34th Street Penn Station on game night.

Instead, you’ll find yourself surrounded by fans, food trucks, street sellers and a heady mix of anticipation and excitement. The famous city-centre complex houses a range of sports and cultural nights, from Knicks and Rangers games to blockbuster concerts: U2 have played there so often they’re now part of the furniture. Interesting non-sports fact: Elvis Presley played for the first and last time at Madison Square Garden in 1972. thegarden.com

Aer Lingus offers three daily services from Dublin to New York, including an early morning service during summer enabling arrival in time for brunch. From Shannon, six flights per week; from September 1, Aer Lingus launches a new daily service to Newark, New Jersey, 40-minutes from downtown Manhattan.

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SMART EDIT | SPORT

Allianz Arena, Munich

9

Tucked just outside the Bavarian capital and home to football club Bayern Munich, the Allianz Arena is the world’s first stadium to have a full colour-changing exterior. Nicknamed the “Schlauchboot” (inflatable boat) its self-cleaning ETFE plastic panels make it the most disco of sports stadiums in this list, despite being located near Munich’s oldest church, Heilig-Kreuz-Kirche. There are a variety of arena tours to choose from, including an option to test your skills in the Kick Hall. allianz-arena.de

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Munich twice daily, and from Cork twice weekly.

Mediolanum Forum, Milan Italy is well known for its ancient amphitheatres and forums but this is comparatively new, having been built in 1990. So fancy are its multipurpose amenities, it won 1994’s European Prize for Architecture for Sports Facilities.

European and world level competitions are held here: ice hockey, basketball, tennis, and it’s also home to the country’s leading ice-skating school. During summer, its 50-metre, open-air swimming pool transforms into an oasis of flora and sun loungers. mediolanumforum.it

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Milan/ Linate daily and to Milan/Malpensa six times per week.

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10 OVER TO YOU

Next issue we share your FAVOURITE BEER GARDENS in Aer Lingus destinations. Have your say @CARAMagazine, using the hashtag #CaraYSWS.

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GETTY IMAGES

Heavenly creature?

The City of Angels as seen from Griffith Observatory, which was immortalised in Rebel Without a Cause.

StarPower Canal life, Blauwburgwal, in Centrum.

Los Angeles’ gilded history may at first appear lost to urban sprawl. But from Downtown to Brentwood, nuggets of the past are being reinvigorated by the present.

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS KRISTIN TEIG

DESTINATION | LA

os Angeles is 72 suburbs in search of a city,” quipped Dorothy Parker. And while I’m on my umpteenth Uber ride just to find a place to eat, I can quite see her point.

It is the Scarlet Pimpernel of metropoles. LA’s urban sprawl is legendary, which means spending a lot of time in the back of cabs chatting to its multiple-jobbing drivers (one worked in real estate, another an acting student – naturally).

Flouting the received wisdom that “no one walks anywhere in LA”, I pounded the sidewalks harder than Vivian Ward in Pretty Woman. Long-fascinated

by LA’s glittering heritage, I was determined to find evidence of golden-era glamour among the glassy new high-rises. And I didn’t have to look far thanks to the Los Angeles Conservancy’s Art Deco Walking Tours (laconservancy. org/tours). Starting from Pershing Square, we explored 12 buildings from the 1920s and 1930s over two-and-a-half sparkling hours.

You don’t have to be an architecture buff to appreciate the green terracotta facade of the Los Angeles Jewelry Center or the René Lalique elevator panels at the James Oviatt Building – home too to the Cicada Club, which hosts vintage-themed events and is where Pretty Woman’s “slippery little suckers” scene was filmed. A reverential hush came over

Felix in Hollywood historian Philip Mershon, and, left, the turquoise Eastern Columbia Building. .

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DESTINATION | LA

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Opposite, Art Deco splendour at the LA Athletics Club. West Hollywood’s Le Petit Ermitage is an oasis of cool – order a cocktail, right, before (re)posing by its rooftop pool, below. Far right, raise a glass at Angel City Brewery, and below right, street art marks the spot of Apolis boutique.

SLEEP AT …

HOT Oh là là! Boutique hotel Le Petit Ermitage is tucked away in a quiet residential area of West Hollywood – but there’s a distinctly party vibe at its rooftop bar, where genetically blessed guests loll poolside. Inside, esoteric decor (antiques, Erte prints) makes for a pleasing bordello vibe. Rooms from $310.

(8822 Cynthia Street, +1 310 854 1114; petitermitage.com) HIP Downtown’s The Standard is a mid-century marble colossus with a head for heights and a rooftop biergarten for sin. Panoramas are incredible, rooms are bright and fashionably retro and midnight feasters can pig out in its 24-hour restaurant. Rooms from $179 approx. (550 South Flower at 6th Street, +1 213 892 8080; standardhotel.com) HOORAY Rare is a hotel that has a swimming pool, gym, spa, basketball and volleyball court on its sixth floor – but then the LA Athletics Club is a bit special.

Dating back to 1912, this Downtown heritage property is where Hollywood greats once worked out, among them Rudolph Valentino, Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford – even Charlie Chaplin lived here.

Rooms from $279. (431 West 7th Street, +1 213 625 2211; laachotel.com)

our group in the ostentatious lobby of One Bunker Hill, while the Eastern Columbia Building is the very height of Deco. Top tip: wet your whistle afterwards at rooftop bar Perch (perchla.com), off Pershing Square, for a bird’s eye ogle of Downtown’s multifarious skyline.

While the Conservancy celebrates the past with its walking tours, Angel City Brewery (angelcitybrewery.com) in the so-called Arts District (most artists have already since migrated to cheaper Culver City) has transformed the past by producing some excellent beers in an old warehouse complex. These oncederelict shells are again a hive of activity, from beer-making tours to taprooms, to food truck and music events. Its IPA and pilsner is now distributed throughout California – but my personal favourite was the Mexican-inspired Srirachelada; the unlikely lovechild of a Bloody Mary

and cerveza: tomato juice, sriracha (chilli sauce), lime juice, agave, pickled banana pepper juice and Worcestershire sauce.

This Renaissance is a far cry from the State’s Prohibition-era, when not only drinking was banned but dancing, singing, gambling and sport – one of many fascinating facts revealed on Philip Mershon’s Felix in Hollywood Walking Tour ($40; felixinhollywoodtours. com). Over 90 genuinely riveting minutes, the infectiously enthusiastic Mr Mershon tells the origins of America’s major film, radio, TV and record companies. You literally stand on the spot where the first

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LOS ANGELES four times per week.

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SKANDIA SHAFER

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SKANDIA SHAFER

Hearty fare – M’lissa Muckerman, above, at G&B Coffee in Grand Central Market.

Anticlockwise from top right, a Winsome interior and also their revered corned beef sandwich; barista on duty Deyssi Zavaleta at Downtown’s Verve Coffee Roasters, and a quintessentially Californian quinoa and black-eyed pea salad at Gracias Madre, a rare kind of Mexican restaurant – it’s vegetarian.

BREAKFAST Glowing reviews of its French toast – whipped ricotta, toasted almonds, blueberries and maple syrup – led me to Farmshop at Brentwood Country Mart.

Expectations were exceeded.

Afterwards, pick up a book at Diesel or fancy stationery at Sugar Paper in this charming plaza. (225 26th Street, Santa Monica, +1 310 458 6682; brentwoodcountrymart.com) JUICY When in Rome: head to Juice Served Here, a slick chain of juice bars aimed at the nutritionally challenged. My favourite was the Charcoal Lemonade – ingredients include alkaline water, sugar cane juice, lemon and “activated” charcoal. It tastes better than it sounds. (Various locations; juiceservedhere.com) VARIETY From falafel to fine wine, pupusa (Salvadoran tortillas) to sushi, Downtown’s Grand Central Market is ideal for one-stop noshing. Avoid weekday lunchhours if you can, when local office workers slide in for sliders, etc.

(317 South Broadway, +1 213 624 2378; grandcentralmarket.com)

JIRO SCHNEIDER

talkies were shot, and pass venerable old theatres and studio lots, many of which are still in use today.

Seriously, forsake Hollywood’s Walk of Fame – an awful racket in a crappy area – and learn where the real magic happened.

Prolong the stardust by dining at nearby Off Vine (offvine. com) – the former bungalow of starlet Beryl Wallace and now a charming restaurant. And no vintage Hollywood experience is complete without aperitifs and/ or supper at the Musso & Frank Grill (mussoandfrank.com), arguably the best thing on 21st-century Hollywood Boulevard. Serving the A-list since 1919 – F Scott Fitzgerald, Raymond Chandler, Marilyn Monroe and Greta Garbo among them – the distinguished bar is where we raised peerless dirty martini and Lady for a Day cocktails.

Californian cuisine is renowned for its perceived health properties and vegetarians, pescatarians, vegans, gluten and dairy-free dieters are spoilt for choice in this girthwatching town. Even vending

EAT AT …

VEGETARIAN Even carnivores will find something to enjoy at Zinc Café and Market in the Arts District. And the leafy courtyard is a sweet spot for wood-fired pizza washed down with Mother Earth Hefeweizen beer.

(580 Mateo Street, +1 323 825 5381; zinccafe.com)

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GRIFFITH PARK No trip to LA is complete without a guided hike up winding, often parched, hills. Ogle the Hollywood sign, the LA basin, Griffith Observatory and possibly a wild mountain lion (!) if you’re very unlucky. bikesandhikesla.com SILVER LAKE Residents of the Silver Lake neighbourhood are so chill that they’ll open their independent boutiques and coffeehouses whenever they damn well feel like it. Very laidback, very hip. Go into Insta-overdrive at the rainbow-painted “Hidden Stairs”.

ECHO PARK The former ‘hood of Leonardo DiCaprio and home of the Dodger Stadium is also Los Angeles’ first suburb. Learn about Carroll Avenue’s beautifully restored Victorian houses on a Los Angeles Conservancy walking tour. laconservancy.org CLIFTON’S “It looks like a forest,” explained one of our cohorts before our arrival. He wasn’t wrong. Dating back to 1939, this kooky ‘cafeteria’ has ‘trees’ out back, a Parisian-style parlour at the front and stuffed animals in between. (648 South Broadway, +1 213 627 1673; cliftonsla.com)

SMART TIPS GEN UP Given its ample size, Los Angeles is not the place to just turn up and wing it. Do your homework at discoverlosangeles.com to find out where to stay, see, drink and dine. The official tourism website also offers a breakdown of neighbourhoods for handy planning.

ALL CLEAR Aer Lingus guests can enjoy US Customs and Border Protection Pre- clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports in one quick and easy procedure, ensuring that arrival into the US is speedy and queue-free.

Our transatlantic fares are all-inclusive, offering free 23kg baggage allowance, on-board meals and drinks, and 120 hours of inflight entertainment offerings.

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Quirky Clifton’s, above, which dates back to the 1930s and has a faux Redwood tree surging through its five floors and a meteorite on one of its many bars.

Right, leisurely libations at Gracias Madre.

machines sell various flavours of vitamin water. Among my favourite meals were at Winsome in Echo Park (eatwinsome.com), where I reached peak Angelenos with a crispy tofu, raw peppers, chilli, Thai basil and puffed wheat berries dish, washed down with a quinoa, wild rice and toasted almond horchata.

Ditto at Gracias Madre in West Hollywood (graciasmadreweho.com): a black bean patty with chipotle aioli, escabeche, pineapple coleslaw and avocado, emboldened with quite possibly California’s best-named cocktail – Smoke Bob Square Pants, an elixir of mezcal espadin, quince tepache and crushed ice, served in a whole, smouldering pineapple.

Here is a city where you are what you eat and what you do is king.

Sample conversation overheard poolside at hotel Petit Ermitage (see “Sleep at”, page 83): “What do you do?” “I’m a social butterfly!”

Although, cookie-cutter clones strutting about in their Fabletics, trophy dogs tucked under Twiglet arms, are few and far between, thanks to California’s melting pot of different colours, shapes and sizes – and despite what the Hollywood

film industry leads us to believe.

“I could hear everything, together with the hum of my hotel neon. I never felt sadder in my life.

LA is the loneliest and most brutal of American cities.” Jack Kerouac in On the Road wasn’t exactly a fan and it remains a divisive city for its lack of geographical and existential heart. Dublin-born, Baldwin Hillsbased journalist Ross McDonagh says it best: “It’s a place to live, not visit,” referring to the too much to do/too little time sprawl. However, when armed with nuggets of mustsees, its returns are as golden as its sunsets.

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DESTINATION | MONTPELLIER

GOING SOUTH Make time to soak up Montpellier, a city that demands your undivided attention – in the nicest possible way.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY EOIN HIGGINS

Canal life, Blauwburgwal, in Centrum.

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DESTINATION | MONTPELLIER

anaging to live a low-key, yet contented, life as the less celebrated and less pretentious cousin of showy relatives – bonjour Cannes, Nice, St Tropez, et al! – is no small order.

Yet modest Montpellier exists as an unassumingly chic beacon of studied tranquility on the French Med in the glitzy South of France. And while benefitting hugely from a gorgeous climate, pretty beaches and more cultural and arty happenings than you could wave a baton at, the city remains as surprisingly accessible – thanks to its super-efficient infrastructure – as it is wallet-friendly.

Notable too is the enviable calm pace of the city.

Granted, a warm sunny climate tends to put the skids

on freneticism, but so too does a metropolis whose inhabitants have made an art form out of the simple act of taking one’s time. Walking, shopping, eating and socialising, all take place at a rate that forces one to relax, or become “mindful”, to use the mot-du-jour for cooling one’s jets. And, as it turns out, that’s a very nice thing indeed – we could all learn a thing or two from Montpellier’s langourously loafing burghers.

There’s also a mouth-watering food scene (the world’s premier food symposium, MAD, was held here earlier this year) to covet, a life-affirming café culture and mind-bending architectural curiosities to take in, at your leisure. Add to all of that a new, twice-weekly direct flight option from Aer Lingus and you’ve got a must-visit destination for any travel buff worth their salt in 2016.

“Granted, a warm, sunny climate tends to put the skids on freneticism, but so too does a metropolis whose inhabitants have made an art form out of the simple act of taking one’s time”

Previous pages, Promenade du Peyrou and the Saint-Clément Aqueduct. This page, 1970s mod – Le Triangle building at Place de la Comédie.

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DESTINATION | MONTPELLIER

2 1 Take time to smell the roses ... a slow jog past the flower sellers at Place de la Comédie.

2 Cool exhibits ... the Musée Fabre is home to one of the most impressive collections of European art in France, as well as being a great spot in which to cool off during the day’s hottest hours. museefabre. montpellier3m.fr

1

SLEEP AT …

ARTFUL In the pedestrianised, Medieval heart of the city, Baudon de Mauny is an 18th-century townhouse offering top-class beds and breakfasts in a boutique hotel setting. Run by the affably charming Alain de Bordas, whose family have owned the house for generations, Baudon offers eight outstanding rooms in a listed building that has been brought bang-up-to-date via a 92 |

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graceful marriage of tradition and innovation. Doubles from €195 per night. (1 Rue de la Carbonnerie, +33 46 702 2177; baudondemauny.com) PLEASURABLE Pullman Montpellier has all the nice touches one should expect from a chain hotel that’s run with the committed professionalism of passionate and friendly staff.

Enjoy free Wi-Fi and coffee in

the cool lobby while planning your daily excursions, or simply take time to lounge on the hotel rooftop, where poolside cocktails and nibbles are a must. Doubles from €145 per night. (1 Rue des Pertuisanes, +33 46 799 7272; pullmanhotels.com) PRUDENT Cheap as chips and with the lack of saucy frills that might suggest, the Ibis Styles is

still a good value rest-stop for bargain-loving travellers looking for a place to lay their heads after a day, or night, on the town.

Just off the Place de la Comédie, this budget hotel is also in a great, central location. Pleasingly cheerful and accommodating staff make a stay here a nice and easy experience. Doubles from €91 per night. (6 Rue Baudin, +33 43 435 8686; ibis.com)

3 3 Look up ... the Ricardo Bofill-designed Antigone district is filled with neoclassical wonders.

4

4 Sweet petite ... taking inspiration from Michel Bras, the team at Pastis showcase market-fresh, high quality produce in a fun, elegant way; a firm city favourite. pastis-restaurant.com 5 Arch art ... eye-catching interiors, and artworks, on display at the MusĂŠe Fabre.

6 Two little birds ... colourful and crafty flourishes at hotel Baudon de Mauny.

6

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DESTINATION | MONTPELLIER

8 7 Built up ... the cutting-edge of architecture: Zaha Hadid’s Pierresvives building is a Montpellier must-see.

8 Quiet please ... the public library inside Pierresvives is just as linear and lovely.

7 9

SMART TIPS BAGGING BARGAI NS Montpellier is a splendid destination for those who like to indulge in the picky pastime of flea market perusing. Two important marchés aux puces (flea markets) are at Mosson (Sunday mornings 6am-1pm) and the Promenade du Peyrou (Sundays 7.30am-2pm).

GRU B-A- DUB -DU B An ideal way to get a feel for the city while discovering the best of its foodie offerings, is to fall in with an edible walking tour of the city’s best food markets, restaurants, suppliers and shops. Get the inside track on the crème de la crème of Montpellier’s bountiful harvest while taking in the best of the city’s sights. Tours from €45 per person at vinenvacances.com.

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9 Monument aux Morts ... commemorating the residents of Montpellier who gave up their lives in the Great War and World War II.

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DESTINATION | MONTPELLIER

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SMART EDIT | FAMILY

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5 Best

EUROPEAN BEACH CITIES Lauren Heskin feels the sand between her toes where urban delights meet coastal pleasures.

ARTY

BARCELONA Probably Europe’s most famous coastal city, Barcelona makes for one of the best weekend escapes, whether you’re interested in sport, history, hiking, culture or architecture.

BEACH With seven beaches stretching over four kilometres, you might still struggle to find a vacant spot in the height of summer.

St Sebastià, Barceloneta and Somorrostro are the largest and often the busiest, but beyond the Port Olympico is Nova Icaria Beach, which arguably has the best seaside atmosphere. If you really don’t fancy fighting for towel space then head north to Caldetes Beach, where the quiet beach is only overlooked by the 19th-century villas built by Spanish nobility.

MUST SEE You’ve got the usual suspects – the Gaudí creations (original and inspired), FC Barcelona's Camp Nou stadium, the Picasso museum – but there is plenty more.

Catalan Art Nouveau (“Modernista”) may be the genre Barcelona is most associated with but there is also the Gothic quarter, home to a labyrinth of narrow winding streets and plaças, as well as the magnificent cathedral.

STAY AT The ultra modern Hotel Arts Barcelona (hotelartsbarcelona. com) has everything a city-beach dweller could dream of – ocean views, a quick nip across the street to the sand or the other way to the city, a sleek swimming pool and spa, plus a two Michelin-starred restaurant.

Rooms from €287.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona twice daily, and from Cork four times weekly.

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QUAINT

SAN SEBASTIÁN It feels as though every street in San Sebastián draws you towards its crescent-shaped beach, from the cobbled paths of the old town, famous for its excellent tapas and pintxos, to its broad Belle Époque boulevards.

BEACH The island of Santa Clara that sits at the mouth of the bay protects the sandy beach and clear waters of La Concha Beach. During the summer months anchored boats, too late to find a space in the port, speckle the cobalt waters. The views are no less beautiful looking back on the city, as the long beach is buttressed by the grand City Hall at one end and the Miramar Palace on the other, the former summer home of the Spanish royal family.

MUST SEE If you’ve had enough of the fabulous food, the rolling waves and beating down heat, there are plenty of indoor activities to keep you occupied.

The Aquarium (aquariumss.com) just beyond the port has informative displays and an amazing array of sealife in hundreds of tanks. Plus, it’s got spectacular views of Santa Clara and the beach-city, as well as the Bay of Biscay beyond. Or, swap the sand for the well-manicured lawns of Miramar Palace. Now a Basque music school and open to the public, it’s worth toughing it up the hill for the view alone.

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STAY AT Once frequented by Spanish nobility at the turn of the 20th century, the stately buildings that front onto the beach have since been modernised for even the most pernickety of visitors. Stay at the faithfully historic Hotel de Londres (hlondres.com), its grand façade overlooking the beach. Also brilliant: their G&Ts are colossal – raise a globular glass on their outdoor terrace overlooking La Concha.

Rooms from €273.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bilbao daily, and twice daily on Saturdays.

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SMART EDIT | FAMILY

SOPHISTICATED

NICE The sprawling city of Nice sits pretty on the French Riviera and welcomes millions of visitors every year to lavish in its chic bars and dip into its turquoise waters. It’s a town of old and new – the narrow, winding streets of the old town mesh with the grand 19th-century avenues and promenades that taper into a serene streak of pebbled beaches.

BEACH The seven kilometres of rocky beach is split between private and public areas. Public beaches such as Plage Publique de Beau Rivage and Centenaire are usually packed so go early, bring something padded to lie on and don’t leave your bags unattended. If you decide to splash out on a private spot such as Le Sporting, Hi or the famous Plage Beau Rivage, expect to pay anywhere between €10 and €20 a day. However, this guarantees you the luxury of lockers, facilities, a sun lounger and a hessian carpet to usher you down to the shore – no hopping up and down on scorching hot stones.

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MUST SEE Beloved by painters and photographers the world over for its natural light, Nice is thronged with galleries and exhibits.

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nice (musee-beauxarts-nice.org) is dedicated to the likes of Chagal and Matisse, while the Theatre of Photography and Images (tpi-nice.org) and the Contemporary Art Museum (mamac-nice.org) offer a modern take on art and design.

STAY AT Its situation on the French Riviera and proximity to Cannes, Cap Ferrat, Monaco, Antibes and St Tropez means that Nice has oodles of glamour and often the prices to match. After hectic sightseeing, unwind at the spectacular seafronted Hôtel la Pérouse (leshotelsduroy.com), regal on a limestone cliff. Rooms from €331.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Nice daily.

VISITBRIGHTON.COM

PLAYFUL

BRIGHTON The coastal towns of Brighton and Hove have morphed many times since they first became a seaside bolthole for British aristocrats in the late 19th century. Now amalgamated to form the city of Brighton and Hove, it’s an artistic, LGBT-friendly haven with a kooky mix of galleries, kitsch, and cosmopolitan culture.

houses the noisy, bohemian side of Brighton, packed with independent shops, bars, boutique restaurants and galleries. West of the pier is Hove, Brighton’s stoic older sister, with grand Regency buildings, pastel-coloured streets and a high-brow feel: when you hit the neatly painted beach huts, you know you’ve arrived.

BEACH The beach is everything you’d expect from Britain’s first seaside “resort”. Fish ‘n’ chip stands, enough Brighton rock to make local dentistry very lucrative indeed, whirring slot machines, striped deckchairs and that brisk sea breeze that’s often absent on the Continent.

The city and beach are split by the Victorian Brighton Pier (brightonpier. co.uk) – to the east is Kemptown which

STAY AT Holed up in the Lanes, the neighbourhood just in from the pier that straddles both Hove and Kemptown, the Artist Residence (artistresidencebrighton.co.uk) has the best of both worlds. With great food, a wicked cocktail bar and lots of quirky furniture and artwork – no two rooms are the same – it’s the perfect antidote to the typical hotel-chain experience.

Rooms from £129.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to London Gatwick multiple times daily, and from Knock daily.

MUST SEE Brighton’s main attraction is the Royal Pavilion (brightonmuseums.org.uk), built by the Prince Regent in the late 18th-century. The building is a riot of Indian, Chinese and regal aesthetic, made up of domed roofs, twisting turrets and, frankly, knock-off design. Not far from the Artist Residence is North Laine (northlaine.co.uk), where some of the best antique and vintage shops can be found.

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CHARMING

THE HAGUE This Netherlands’ city has so much more to offer than just the UN International Court of Justice. A few minutes’ walk from the city centre is the old-fashioned beach and jetty, brimming with hurdy-gurdies, restaurants, bars and the ubiquitous chip cones smothered in fritessaus.

BEACH Crossed between a British seaside town and the US West Coast, the Scheveningen district has old world charm with a few sweet touches of tack.

Amble up the boardwalk, puntzak friet in hand, or peruse the tourist shops and watch the bungee jumpers leap off the purpose-built tower (pier.nl).

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MUST SEE “Den Haag” is the seat of the Dutch parliament so there’s plenty of beautiful architecture to see, as well as some oddities: the Madurodam (madurodam.nl), a miniature theme park based on everything Dutch, and the cylindrical panoramic painting by Hendrik Willem Mesdag (panoramamesdag.nl), which wraps around an observation gallery. Or get your tessellation on at the Escher Museum (escherinhetpaleis.nl). And for those with itchy feet: despite its large population, the Netherlands is actually very small – so hop on an NS Intercity train and you’ll be in Amsterdam, Utrecht or Rotterdam in under an hour.

STAY AT As the ratio between population and space is relatively small, the Dutch do all they can to optimise the latter – so don’t expect to be spoilt for choice with palatial hotel rooms.

Instead, discover that good things can come in small packages at Hotel Mimosa Scheveningen (hotelmimosa.nl); a quiet, cosy hotel a few minutes from the sea.

Ideal for a families as well as soloists/ couples, its “Movie and Sleep” and “Bike and Sleep” packages are nice touches.

Rooms from €45.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam four times daily, and from Cork twice daily.

DESTINATION | EDINBURGH

48 hours in

EDINBURGH

It's festival month. Owen O’Leary, co-author of The Locals’ Guide to Edinburgh, shows us the sights.

Eat at ...

COLOURFUL The eats go on at V Deep where craft beer and curries combine in this laidback Leith restaurant. Staff styled in Adidas Originals serve up taster dishes designed to accompany a growing roster of specialty brews. With a mango-chutney-free guarantee this is curry rebooted and suited in style.

(60 Henderson Street, +44 131 563 5293; vdeep.co.uk) SCOTTISH Want to taste local cuisine? Avoid the traditional offerings and make the dogs your destination. Renowned restaurateur David Ramsden has found the perfect balance with fresh, locally sourced 106 |

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produce served in simple dishes.

Order the pork belly stuffed with haggis for the ultimate in Scottish cuisine bragging rights.

(110 Hanover Street, +44 131 220 1208; thedogsonline.co.uk) MULTISENSORY Logs, stock and two smoking barrels sets Timberyard apart. This former timber merchants is now home to one of Scotland’s finest dining experiences. With an in-house butchers and smokehouse, food is prepared with care and served with inventive flair in surroundings that channel Scandi minimalism and north Californian soul. (10 Lady Lawson Street, +44 131 221 1222; timberyard.co)

Chill out in the laid-back gastropub surrounds of the dogs.

Drink at ...

TRADITIONAL Like a gift from heaven, Kay’s Bar appears on a quiet residential street as if dropped from the skies.

Victorian, cosy and with a malt whisky line-up to make your eyes water, this oasis in the New Town is the perfect hideout for canoodling couples and cask-ale enthusiasts. (39 Jamaica Street, +44 131 225 1858; kaysbar.co.uk)

Don't miss ...

PLAYFUL Speakeasy and clearly and enter a world of fun in Hoot the Redeemer. The fairground atmosphere in this hidden dive bar will make you want to order slushies, alcoholic ice cream sundaes and use arcade claws to pluck flavours for your own cocktail creations. (7 Hanover Street, +44 131 220 0310; hoottheredeemer.com)

Clockwise from top, a cosy nook in Rock House; outdoor literary entertainment courtesy of the Edinburgh Book Festival; Timberyard’s raw beef and quail yolk concoction; the colours and bright lights of the Fringe Festival.

FRIENDLY A Swedish revolution in Edinburgh’s pub scene has transformed some of the city’s dingier pubs into welcoming watering holes. Former grocery store Joseph Pearce’s midcentury interior mixed with a bangup-to-date drinks menu is a highlight.

Special events throughout August include their famous crayfish parties.

(23 Elm Row, +44 131 556 4140; bodabar.com/joseph-pearces)

Sleep at …

ROMANTIC To woo and to wow Nira Caledonia is a must. This luxury Georgian boutique hotel has 28 sumptuous rooms in the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town. Former home of literary lion John Wilson, here’s a hotel worth writing home about. Break the bank and book the Jacuzzi Suite. B&B from £290. (10 Gloucester Place, +44 131 225 2720; niracaledonia.com) PANORAMIC Stay in a landmark on a landmark at the Rock House on Calton Hill. Known as the birthplace of modern photography, stunning views abound from this central yet secluded self-catering property, which sleeps eight. Once the home and studio of

photography pioneers David Octavius Hill and Robert Adamson, it remains picture perfect. £787 per night, minimum stay three nights.

(28 Calton Hill, +44 131 558 1108; rockhouse-edinburgh.com) BUDGET Access capsule comfort and clean lines at Code Edinburgh.

Bang smack in the thick of the action off Rose Street, this Japanese-inspired sleeping pod hostel has ditched the frills without losing a sense of style.

Those wanting more space can “splash out” on their luxurious penthouse.

Dorm beds from £49. (50 Rose Street North Lane, +44 131 659 9883; codehostel.com)

EPIC Summerhall is a former veterinary college with onsite brewery and gin distillery, and at festival time it fills with international performers as more than 100 shows take over the building’s many quirky spaces. Highlights this year include Irish Times Best Play winner Scorch. (Summerhall Place, +44 131 560 1580; summerhall.co.uk) BURLESQUE The Fringe is the natural home for the bawdy and brilliant, with a recent explosion of burlesque and cabaret acts. Make sure to catch Ireland’s own Scarlett van Tassel as part of the international line-up in the Best of Burlesque and Australia’s cabaret queen Amelia Ryan in Lady Liberty.

(Assembly George Square, +44 131 623 3030; assemblyfestival.com) BIBLIOPHILIC Nestled in the serene gardens of Charlotte Square, the International Book Festival feels wonderfully far from the madding crowds. It’s no less invigorating as authors and notables including Ian Rankin, Kevin Barry, Alan Cummings and Packie Bonner play host to audiences at the world’s premier book festival from August 13-29. (Charlotte Square Gardens, +44 845 373 5888; edbookfest.co.uk)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to EDINBURGH five times daily, and from Cork and Shannon daily.

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ON BUSINESS

On the Waterfront

Heralded as an ‘innovation district’, Boston Seaport boasts almost one million square metres of purpose-built corporate real estate – and more than 4,000 of its residents walk to work.

Aine Greaney assesses this Massachusetts makeover.

Making travel work for you

Business

The impressive Boston Convention and Exhibition Center in the newlook Seaport district.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BOSTON twice daily, and from Shannon daily.

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en years ago, there were very few reasons to visit the Boston Harbor waterfront.

For fans of TV cop dramas, there was the chance of glimpsing a big-time criminal being ushered into the Moakley Federal Courthouse. Or you could snag some cheap city parking in one of the area’s vacant and scrubby lots.

Or you could catch a boat to one of the islands. But overall, other than parking and perps, Boston’s seaport was nobody’s destination.

Fast forward to 2016, when the US Chamber of Commerce Foundation has cited Boston as America’s number one innovation hub (take that, Silicon Valley!) –

T

with the Seaport as its shiny new centrepiece. As well as the sheer volume (5,000) of new jobs, Boston Seaport has also been cited for the diversity of its new or relocated industries, including technology (30 per cent); life sciences (16 per cent); non-profits (11 per cent) and creatives (21 per cent). This new biz buzz generated a slew of fun and leisure opportunities, including coworking spaces, networking events, hotels, restaurants and clubs. Best of all, you can get here from Logan International Airport via “the T” (Silver Line) – Boston’s urban metro system – or take a 10-minute cab ride, or just hop aboard an airport water taxi. Not bad for a place that used to be a warehouse wasteland.

Eat at …

EN PLEIN AIR The Rose Kennedy Greenway’s Mobile Eats programme hosts 30+ vendors offering freshly cooked and reasonably priced meals for your picnic dining in one of the urban micro parks. Follow your faves via their individual social media accounts or check out the daily lineup of mobile chefs and food trucks. rosekennedygreenway.org ITALIAN Don’t let its moniker fool you. Babbo Pizzeria, above right, is a far cry from your standard pepperoniand-cheese takeaway outfit. Of course it helps when you have a TV chef and celeb restaurateur at the helm – Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali. Open for lunch and dinner, Babbo offers fresh salads, innovative small plates and Neapolitan-style pizza from its wood-burning brick ovens: please try the goat’s cheese, pistachio and truffle pizza. (11 Fan Pier Boulevard, +1 617 421 4466; babbopizzeria.com)

Farm Fresh SEAFOOD If you want the quintessential Boston experience, you can’t go far wrong with Legal Test Kitchen, where the simply prepared fish and shellfish are always delicious.

The paella is really reasonably priced and you simply cannot visit New England without sampling a North Atlantic lobster. Legal also offers a constantly updated and affordable wine list. (225 Northern Boulevard, +1 617 330 7430; legalseafoods.com)

For a big-value and goodvibe happy hour, check out Tavern Road’s “Oysters, Pigs and Ponies” promo: oysters are $1, beers are $2 and the charcuterie $3. (343 Congress Street, +1 617 790 0808; tavernroad.com)

Smart picnicking: Rose Kennedy Mobile Eats programme places gourmet food trucks all along the Greenway in the heart of Boston.

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Business

Nightlife at ...

ROOFTOP As well as its menu of craft cocktails, Envoy Hotel’s see-and-beseen rooftop lounge offers vast views of the harbour and city skyline. The clusters of couches and fire-pits make for intimate group chats, while the high-top tables offer excellent people and street watching. Hotel guests get first seating preference, so if you’re not staying at the Envoy, weekends are your best bet. (70 Sleeper Street, +1 617 338 3030; theenvoyhotel.com) LIVE MUSIC The Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA), pictured, brings the best and brightest young musicians to the waterfront by hosting Harborwalk Sounds, a free Friday night

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concert series, much of which includes electronic noodlings. This August, catch Brazilian pop-jazz trio ChoroBop or the Light Asylum DJ set with a Grace Jones film screening of her 1984 concert, A One Man Show. (25 Harbor Shore Drive, +1 617 478 3100; icaboston.org) MINGLING Here’s your chance to learn, or practise, some hot Latin moves, at Salsa in the Park. It’s just a walk and a “T” ride to get there from the Seaport (Orange or Silver line) – arrive early for your free dance lesson to get you moving and grooving with the locals of all ages and abilities every Monday 6-9pm.

(50 West Brookline Street, +1 617 286 6382; salsainthepark.org)

ERIC LEVIN

Stay at ...

BOUTIQUE Battery Wharf Hotel at the northern end of the pedestrianised Harborwalk, is a short stroll from the restaurants in Little Italy. Let the event staff organise your small or large group meetings, meals or corporate retreats.

Then, when the day’s work is done, treat yourself to some outdoor yoga or a visit to the hotel’s spa. Rooms from $369. (3 Battery Wharf, +1 617 994 9000; batterywharfhotelboston.com) TRADITIONAL A 20-minute walk from Seaport, The Langham, left, was once Boston’s federal reserve bank. This is classic luxury at its New England best, including its afternoon high tea. If you’re too pooped to follow GoogleMaps or navigate the “T”, the “Pink Taxi” – the hotel’s imported, retrofitted London cab – will drop you at any attraction within three kilometres of the hotel. Rooms from $498 approx. (250 Franklin Street, +1 617 451 1900; langhamhotels.com)

ERIC LEVIN

SLEEK Located in the very heart of the innovation district, the two-year-old Envoy Hotel, above, blends modern with comfortable.

The rooms are high-tech minimalist and each offers floor-to-ceiling harbour or city skyline views, while the off-lobby business centre is deliberately set for working and networking. Rooms from $411. (70 Sleeper Street, +1 617 338 3030; theenvoyhotel.com)

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Business

JIM HIGGINS

Dancing at the ICA’s Summer Fridays, below, and an afternoon’s stroll on one of Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Areas, right.

Downtime at ...

e Goldstar’s daily email of the SUPER VALUE Sign up to receiv f-price admission tickets – for latest discounts – including hal boat excursions. goldstar.com local concerts, plays, events and

CULTURE As well as showcasing visual arts, the ICA offers soirées. Its Summer Fridays series is particularly eclectic, not least the White Hot Party on August 5 when guests are invited to dress accordingly for a barnstorming night of live music. Just try not to spill your drink ... Reservations recommended.

(25 Harbor Shore Drive, +1 617 478 3100; icaboston.org)

ISLAND HOPPING Boston enjoys 130 square kilometres of offshore islands – the Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area – so pack a few of those North Atlantic lobster rolls and sunblock and spend the day hiking or lounging on some of the area’s most pristine beaches. Boats operate daily during the summer. (66 Long Wharf, +1 617 227 4321; bostonharborislands.org) 114 |

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GRAHAM CORCORAN

SAILING The 25-metre Adirondack III is modelled after the antique schooners from the 1800s, but offers 21st-century comforts and a much smoother sail.

For those chillier evenings on the water, the crew supply free blankets so you can snuggle up with your friends – or new acquaintances. The boat can also be chartered for corporate or family outings. (60 Rowes Wharf, +1 617 951 2460; boston-sailing.com)

MAIN BUILDING CONTRACTOR

DESIGN BUILD

JOINT VENTURE PARTNER

Commercial Bio-Pharma Data Centres Industrial Retail Educational Conservation

Killarney House, Kenmare 1877 - 1878

Bolands Mills, Dublin 1941

Killester Bridge, Dublin 1940

Building Excellence Since 1810 Collen Construction Collen Construction UK Collen GmbH

River House, East Wall Road, Dublin 3, Ireland Basepoint Business Centre, Metcalf Way, Crawley West Sussex RH11 7XX, UK In der Kron 6-8, 60489 Frankfurt am Main, Germany

www.collen.com Email: construction@collen.com

T: + 353 1 874 5411 T: + 44 1293 817611 T: +49 69 959 28603

Business

©MAGS HARTNETT

Clockwise from left, Mags’ artwork; Sheep's Head way; CentquatreParis, and the Bullring, Birmingham.

A DAY IN THE LIFE

Artist Mags Harnett has designed an artwork celebrating next month’s Aer Lingus College Football Classic. Here’s an insight into her working day.

7.15am Our house is a busy place in the mornings. I help my children get ready for school and, most mornings after dropping them off, I get some exercise – running, yoga or a walk – before getting to work in my studio, which is in my attic at home.

9.30am The morning hours are my best for concentration. The house is quiet and there are no interruptions.

I only ever mix colours in daylight and almost always in the mornings so this is precious time for getting my best work done. I often work on commissions, such as this piece for the Aer Lingus College Football Classic, which was commissioned by R&C McCormack Celtic jewellers.

I used the visual of the Book of Kells and changed the content from Latin to contemporary language, while its themes were inspired by the first page of Matthew’s gospel.

Grafton Street and at my website (magsharnett. com). Some afternoons, though, I teach art at the local school.

ON THE BALL Going shoulder to shoulder this September 3 are Boston College and Georgia Tech for the Aer Lingus College Football Classic at Dublin’s Aviva Stadium.

There’s also a pre-game pep rally and tailgate event – see Check In page 12.

5pm We eat an early dinner as we’re an active family in the evenings with GAA, soccer, dancing and so on. I cook my own food.

My children were born in France – I lived there for 15 years – where mealtimes are very important and I value our time together at the table where we can chat (or squabble!).

12noon I have a quick lunch of salad or homemade soup and bring a cup of tea back up to the studio.

Evenings Once the children are settled I usually get another quiet hour in the studio. It’s great having a home studio as I can go back up to see my morning’s work with the valuable distance of a few hours. I can get really caught up in a piece but I try not to work too late as it’s hard to wind down otherwise.

I often dream of what I’m working on.

2.30pm I collect my son from school and while he’s doing homework I reply to emails and do things like organising the scanning and printing of the limited edition prints – 100 signed editions of the college football artwork will be available at McCormack’s on Dublin’s

10.30pm I get to bed and usually read some articles or look at Facebook before picking up my book. I love reading and I find it the best way to relax. I read fiction mostly – I have just read Hermann Hesse’s Narcissus and Goldmund, which I loved.

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I LOVE VISITING …

CORK, IRELAND My partner, Seán, lives in West Cork and we spend long weekends and holidays there. I love to go to out to Sheep’s Head peninsula, a beautiful and remote area with lovely villages such as Kilcrohane and Ahakista to stop off in. I just love the hills and the coastline there.

PARIS, FRANCE We still have family and close friends in France, so we travel to Paris about four times a year. I love the Centquatre-Paris (5 rue Curial, +33 1 5335 5000; 104.fr), a public cultural centre I recently discovered in the 19th arrondissement. There are open rehearsal spaces so you can see dancers, actors and acrobats practising together, as well as contemporary art and photography exhibitions. It has a great atmosphere that kids will love, and cool cafés inside too.

BIRMINGHAM, UK As a teenager I spent many memorable summers visiting my cousins in this area. Now we all have our own children and we get together there for some short holidays and they love that. My teenage daughter loves to go shopping with her cousins in the famous Bullring in the city centre.

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www.eisneramper.ie F I N A N C I A L S E RV I C E S – I N T E R N AT I O N A L T R A D E – G O V E R N M E N T © 2016 EISNERAMPER IRELAND. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Business

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BOOK We’re all born with the ability to lead. Well, that’s according to Learning Leadership: The Five Fundamentals of Becoming an Exemplary Leader by James M Kouzes and Barry Z Posner (John Wiley & Sons Inc, £16.99, hbk and e-book), a comprehensive guide to taking charge. Based on more than three decades of research, this pep talk shows how anyone can become a better leader through practical tips.

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GROOMING Founded by two self-confessed blow dry addicts, Sonia Flynn and Orna Holland, Dublin’s Roller Blow Bar is the answer to your earlymorning presentation prayers.

This speedy salon tends to your tresses while every customer gets a personal iPad so you can work while you wait. (23 Forbes Street, Hanover Quay, Dublin 2, 01 549 4922; roller.ie)

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BUSINESS

TRAVEL HOT LIST

STAY A new haunt in NYC’s hippest ’hood, The Williamsburg Hotel combines on-point interiors – designed by Michaelis Boyd Studio of Soho House Berlin fame – with an after-dark nerve centre of three bars and rooftop pool. Did we mention each guest room has floor-toceiling windows with views of Manhattan and the East River? Rooms from $295. (96 Wythe Avenue, +1 718 362 8100; thewilliamsburghotel.com)

Lisa Hughes picks the latest devices and places to smooth the way for work.

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GADGET Tune out background noise on your commute and have crystal clear calls with Bose QuietComfort 35 noise-cancelling headphones. These lightweight, wireless lug-huggers have superb noise cancellation, intuitive controls and boast a 20-hour battery life per charge. €379.95 at bose.ie.

APP From quirky bars to weird and wonderful restaurants, Great Little Place is a bit like the cool travel companion you wish you had. Now with more than 15,000 places listed across 100 cities, this little black book app steers you clear from generic big chains and guides you to uncover lesser-spotted gems and even lets you add your own suggestions. glpapp.com

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EVENT Blogging has gone from pastime to big business. One of the world’s biggest content conferences, #BlogHer16: Experts Among Us, kicks off in Los Angeles this August 4-6. It may be the world’s largest conference for women content creators but about 10-15 per cent of attendees are men. Among the motivational speakers will be Tiffany Pham, founder and CEO of Mogul. blogher.com

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EAT Obicà’s new flagship in London’s St Paul’s doesn’t disappoint. Perfect for formal and informal meetings, the airy, open-plan Italian features splashes of marble and a copper pizza oven at its heart, while the mozzarella di bufala DOP is imported twice a week to be served with black truffle and Calvisius caviar.

(Unit 4 5-7 Limeburner Lane, +44 20 3327 0984; obica.com)

Where Champions Meet

Recently renovated & refurbished, The K Club features 140 bedrooms and brand new conferencing & events facilities.

For more information: T: +353 (1) 601 7200 | E: sales@kclub.ie | W: www.kclub.ie

Business Hotel

PLAYING A BLINDER

Eoin Mulligan grabs an eyeful of Birmingham’s handsome Hotel du Vin & Bistro.

WHAT & WHERE A former Victorianera eye hospital in Birmingham’s city centre, Hotel du Vin & Bistro has since been treated to its own form of surgery, with each room individually decorated to ensure that guests won’t be seeing double.

Classic meets contemporary design while remaining sympathetic to the building’s provenance – the perfect base for exploring a city that, after London, boasts more Michelin-starred restaurants than anywhere else in the UK. Twin and double room rates from £73. (Church Street, +44 212 794 3005; hotelduvin.com)

PINT-SIZED Ergonomically designed for the short-term visitor, rooms in the budget Nitenite hotel are brilliantly bijou. Within walking distance of the Birmingham Business District and the Bullring, it’s in an ideal spot for central meetings.

Apartments are also available for longer stopovers. Single rooms from £46. (18 Holiday Street, +44 121 631 5550, nitenite.com)

DINNER BUZZ Unwind after a long day of corporate-speak at the irreverent Old Joint Stock Pub & Theatre, which, as the name suggests, is both a boozer and live entertainment venue that’s dripping with original fixtures and fittings.

Much more laid-back than a night with the Shelbys at the The Garrison as fans of the TV series Peaky Blinders would know. (4 Temple Row West, 0121 200 1892; oldjointstock.co.uk) 120 |

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DOWN TO BUSINESS Nestled in the hugely successful Jewellery Quarter – Birmingham produces 40 per cent of the UK’s gold, silver and bronze – this four-star haven is a godsend for travellers with a penchant for quirk.

Its courtyard has a retractable roof, making it ideal for languorous business lunches, while Daily Delegates packages in characterful meeting rooms start at £45. And it’s not called Hotel du Vin & Bistro by accident – its on-site Pub du Vin and Bubble Lounge take its F&B very seriously, the latter of which offers 40 varieties of fizz in its Venice Caffe Florian-inspired space.

Moreover its Spa du Vin is perfect for

on-the-go executives – book an Espa Express Facial (£36/30 minutes) or an Oriental Scalp Massage (£36/30 minutes).

DOWNTIME A five-minute walk away from the Bullring, The Custard Factory (Gibb Street, +44 212 224 7777; custardfactory.co.uk) is Birmingham’s certified creative quarter. Quite the success story, its six hectares comprise of restored Victorian factories jam-packed with 50 independent businesses, ranging from artist studios to TV production companies, vinyl and vintage clothing stores, and even a nutritional breakfast pop-up shop.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Birmingham four times daily, from Cork twice daily and from Shannon six times per week.

33 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2 +3531 6707238 WWW.THEGREENHEN.COM

OPEN 7 DAYS 2 COURSE LUNCH €17.00 3 COURSE LUNCH €19.00

EARLY BIRD MENU 2 COURSES €19.50 3 COURSES €22.00

A LA CARTE MENU EXTENSIVE WINE LIST GREAT COCKTAILS

Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT fruitless rumination about the problem and set free the most valuable commodity you have – your mental space.

aAnR’sT I SM

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CITY

Fake it ’til you make it I was pacing backstage when my phone buzzed. It was my son Niall, saying, “I hope you’re doing your power pose”.

How had I forgotten? So I took up a “power pose” – head up, back straight, arms spread in a relaxed, space-occupying pose, looking around like a confident celebrity, at odds with the nerve-wracked jelly that I was inside. It worked – I tricked my brain into switching on the circuits linked to confidence and strutted onto the stage to give a faultless TEDx talk.

IAN ROBERTSON is professor of psychology at

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Trinity College Dublin and was the founding director of Trinity’s Institute of Neuroscience. His latest popular science book is The Stress Test: How Pressure Can Make You Stronger and Sharper.

Stress can be good for you I heard Tiger Woods say once: “The day I’m not nervous is the day I quit … That’s the greatest thing about it, just to feel that rush.”

Stress, I have learnt, is a doubleedged sword: it can distract and inhibit you or it can boost your abilities and push you nearer to your optimal performance.

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A wandering mind is an unhappy mind Recently I was reading a paper for a meeting and realised that my mind had been wandering; I’d taken nothing in. When our minds wander, they tend to sniff out trouble – usually unresolved problems or conflicts. If we focus

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our attention on what we are doing, being in the present as much as possible, we protect ourselves against worry and anxiety.

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One action is worth a hundred thoughts Unfinished business is like a honeypot to a bee as far as our brains are concerned – it makes our minds buzz around with thoughts such as “I must get that done” or “I’ll have to do something about that”. Just taking one small step – writing the first sentence of the report, phoning a friend for a recommendation of a good roofer or sending a text to ask to meet about a problematic relationship can short-circuit

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DESTINATION Things may not always be easy in Rome but to be able to work in the city of all cities with smart Italian colleagues who feign nonchalance about the Medieval fresco on the ceiling or the Roman pillar in the corner makes this an incredible place.

Be excited I had a difficult meeting to go to recently and the thought of it made me feel very anxious. As I walked down the corridor towards the meeting room, I could feel my heart pounding. Luckily, I had just come across some new research and so I said to myself, “I feel excited”. Why? Because the bodily symptoms of anxiety and of excitement are exactly the same.

Just saying to myself “I feel excited” hijacked this energy.

SLEEP AT Trastevere is the beating heart of Rome and to sip a negroni in the square watching the evening sun flare soothes the soul. Hotel Santa Maria is a wonderful oasis near this square of squares in the city of cities. hotelsantamariatrastevere.it

What doesn’t kill me ...

Young adults who have never had adversity in their lives are much more emotionally vulnerable than those who have had some challenges. Some stresses can even make older people mentally sharper – serious illness of a partner, for example.

What I have learnt above all is that stress can be a source of energy and that you can learn how to harness it. That’s why I wrote The Stress Test: How Pressure Can Make you Stronger and Sharper (Bloomsbury).

EAT AT Try Trattoria da Paolo on 92 via San Francesco a Ripa, opposite San Francesco church and its Bernini statue. Paolo has gone back to hunt in the mountains of Abruzzo but his wife and relatives still run this very local, very wonderful, very family restaurant.

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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Rome daily.

O S J

G Temple Bar, Dublin

TRADITIONAL IRISH BARS, RESTAURANT & ACCOMMODATION

AWARD WINNING TRADITIONAL IRISH RESTAURANT

LIVE IRISH MUSIC EVERYDAY FROM 1PM TO 2.30AM

SERVING SUPERB PINTS & THE BEST CRAIC IN DUBLIN

BEST BAR FOOD SERVED DAILY

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Great Music, Great Food, Great Craic

All major sporting events live on our Big Screens Look us up online

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Gogartys 58 -59 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 tel: +353 (0)1 6711 822 • email: info@gogartys.ie

Fáilte Approved

Pub

Visit www.gogartys.ie for self catering apartments and international hostel accommodation

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

ain Capt a: ric Ame ar W Civil E 131 S EE

PAG

Flying with Aer Lingus

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment.

Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

126 Welcome aboard 127 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 144 Our Route Networks 148 Connecting to Wi-Fi

Inight Entertainment 130 Movies to North America 131 Movies from North America 132 Our Classic Movie Selection 135 Television On Demand 138 Radio On Demand 139 Music On Demand

Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you.

After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight.

If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

Why not try speaking a few words of the native language while you are visiting Ireland!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Goodbye ...is ainm dom My name is...

Conas atá tú? How are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithscéal Excuse me Cara Friend

Aer Lingus are proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded

by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page.

Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.

Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information.

View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Are you ready for take-off and landing?

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.



Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in ’flight mode’?

   

Is your seatback fully upright?

Is your armrest down?

Is your tabletop stowed?

Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting.

ON Airplane Mode

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off.

Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

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Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and reduce jet lag.

KEEP MOVING On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Your comfort and safety

EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

EYE CARE



Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.



Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.



If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

Airbus 330-

200

For your Safety

Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Please do

not remov

e from Aircra

Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do

ft

TIME ZONES ON

Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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Airplane Mode

not remov

e from Aircra

ft

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

Mode

Mode

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area

C

onveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

●

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin’

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Irish Music and Traditional Irish Dancing 7 nights-a-week

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Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

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Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers

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Pour Your Own Pint tables

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Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

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For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts

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HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

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Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten for quality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast, pictured below.

Really Good Full Irish Breakfast only

€6.95

*This special offer is available Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am.

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

*

PG

Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action

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Action The Jungle Book 106 mins

PG

The man-cub Mowgli flees the jungle after a threat from the tiger Shere Khan. Guided by Bagheera the panther and the bear Baloo, Mowgli embarks on a journey of self-discovery, though he also meets creatures who don‘t have his best interests at heart. Stars Neel Sethi, Bill Murray and Ben Kingsley.

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Comedy

Batman V PG13 Superman: Dawn of Justice 151 mins Batman takes on the Man of Steel. Stars Ben Affleck, Henry Cavill, Amy Adams EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Keanu

R

98 mins Friends hatch a plot to retrieve a stolen kitten.

Stars Keegan-Michael Key, Jordan Peele, Will Forte EN FR DE

A Hologram for the King

Documentary

R

98 mins An American business man travels to Saudi Arabia. Stars Tom Hanks, Alexander Black, Sarita Choudhury EN

Elvis & Nixon

R

Mr Right

R

86 mins The meeting of the King of Rock n‘ Roll and President Nixon. Stars Michael Shannon, Kevin Spacey, Alex Pettyfer

90 mins The perfect guy with a fatal flaw. Stars Anna Kendrick, Sam Rockwell, Tim Roth

EN

EN

Drama

Hitchcock/ Truffaut

PG13

79 mins How ‘Cinema According to Hitchcock‘ influenced others work. Stars Mathieu Amalric, Wes Anderson, Peter Bogdanovich EN FR DE ES

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Midnight Special

IT

PG13

Money Monster

R

Pelé: Birth Of A Legend

PG

Sing Street

PG13

111 mins A father and son go on the run pursued by a cult. Stars Michael Shannon, Joel Edgerton, Kirsten Dunst

98 mins An irate investor takes over a studio. Stars George Clooney, Julia Roberts, Jack O‘Connell

107 mins The life story of Brazilian football legend Pelé.

Stars Vincent D‘Onofrio, Rodrigo Santoro, Diego Boneta

106 mins A Dublin boy during the 1980s escapes his strained family. Stars Ferdia Walsh-Peelo, Aidan Gillen, Maria Doyle Kennedy

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN DE

EN DE ES

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Maya The Bee Movie 89 mins Maya is a little bee on a big adventure. Stars Kodi Smit-McPhee, Noah Taylor, Richard Roxburgh EN FR DE ES CCEN

EN G

FR DE IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English

Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action

Allegiant

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

Action

Captain America: Civil War 146 mins

Political pressure mounts to install a system of accountability when the actions of the Avengers lead to collateral damage. The new status quo deeply divides members of the team and causes a rift between former allies Captain America and Iron Man. Stars Chris Evans, Robert Downey Jr and Scarlett Johansson.

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Comedy

PG13

120 mins Tris must escape beyond the wall that encircles Chicago. Stars Shailene Woodley, Theo James, Jeff Daniels EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Seal Team Eight: Behind Enemy Lines

R

Barbershop: The Next Cut

PG13

Documentary

PG13

My Big Fat PG13 Greek Wedding 2

98 mins Team 8 must fight their way through the Congo.

Stars Tom Sizemore, Lex Shrapnel

112 mins Calvin‘s barbershop helps to change the neighbourhood. Stars Ice Cube, Regina Hall, Anthony Anderson

94 mins An even bigger and Greeker wedding.

Stars Nia Vardalos, John Corbett, Michael Constantine

EN

EN ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Drama

The Boss

R

99 mins A titan of industry is sent to prison. Stars Melissa McCarthy, Kristen Bell, Peter Dinklage

21 Days Under the Sky

PG

75 mins The timeless American love of the motorcycle and the road. Stars Troy Critchlow, Gentry Dayton, Ryan Grossman

EN

EN

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

A Bigger Splash

R

Born to be Blue

R

High-Rise

R

124 mins A man is visited by an old friend and his daughter. Stars Tilda Swinton, Matthias Schoenaerts

Chet Baker‘s musical comeback in the late ‘60s. Stars Ethan Hawke, Carmen Ejogo, Callum Keith Rennie

119 mins Life for these residents is getting out of control.

Stars Tom Hiddleston, Jeremy Irons, Sienna Miller

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN

97mins

Ratchet & Clank

PG

April and the Extraordinary World

EN PG

FR DE

94 mins A mechanic and his newfound robot ally join an elite squad. Stars James Arnold Taylor, David Kaye, Jim Ward

75 mins April goes in search of her missing scientist parents.

Stars Marion Cotillard, Philippe Katerine

EN

EN FR ES

IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English

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We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America.

Timeless favourites such as The Fugitive and Rocky are available, as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.

Our Classic Movie Selection

Alien

R

Bride Wars

PG

117 mins Stars Sigourney Weaver, Tom Skerritt, John Hurt

89 mins Stars Kate Hudson, Anne Hathaway, Candice Bergen

EN

EN DE IT

Raging Bull

R

129 mins Stars Robert De Niro, Cathy Moriarty, Joe Pesci, Frank Vincent EN FR DE

Robots

PG

91 mins Stars Paula Abdul, Halle Berry, Lucille Bliss, Terry Bradshaw EN FR DE IT ES

The Fugitive

PG13

The Heat

124 mins Stars Harrison Ford, Tommy Lee Jones, Sela Ward

117 mins Stars Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy, Demián Bichir

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Cool Runnings

PG

PG

98 mins Stars John Candy, Leon, Doug E Doug

87 mins Stars George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Bill Murray

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE

Rocky

119 mins Stars Sylvester Stallone, Talia Shire, Burt Young

PG

EN FR DE

R

Fantastic Mr Fox

The Grand Budapest Hotel

R

100 mins Ralph Fiennes, Saoirse Ronan EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Sex and the City 2

R

I am Legend

PG13

101 mins Stars Will Smith, Alice Braga, Charlie Tahan EN FR DE IT ES

Sunshine

141 mins Stars Sarah Jessica Parker, Kim Cattrall

107 mins Stars Cillian Murphy, Michelle Yeoh, Troy Garity, Rose Byrne

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES

The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies

PG13

Invictus

134 mins Morgan Freeman, Matt Damon, Tony Kgoroge

The Wolf of Wall Street

R

PG13

R

Magnolia

103 mins Stars Robert Downey Jr, Val Kilmer

188 mins Tom Cruise, Philip Seymour Hoffman, Julianne Moore

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

The Book Thief

The Darjeeling Limited

PG13

131 mins Stars Geoffrey Rush, Emily Watson EN FR DE IT ES

R

Kiss Kiss, Bang Bang

Taxi Driver

144 mins Stars Ian McKellen

180 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Margot Robbie

113 mins Stars Robert DeNiro, Jodie Foster, Sybil Shepard

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE

R

R

The Departed

R

R

91 mins Stars Owen Wilson

151 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Matt Damon

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Trouble PG13 with the Curve

X-Men Origins: Wolverine

PG13

111 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Amy Adams

104 mins Stars Hugh Jackman

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Irish Shorts and Features

Barty Carty PG13

Fallen Bird

10 mins Stars Tim Casey, David Collins, Matthew Collins

10 mins Stars Eric Boylan

EN

EN

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R

Off the Board 8 mins

EN

PG13

Stutterer

PG13

12 mins Stars Matthew Needham, Chloe Pirrie, Eric Richard EN

The Great Fall

PG13

The Hit Producer

6 mins Stars Aileen Mythen, Anne Byrne, Mia Murphy

107 mins Stars Michelle Doherty, Neill Fleming

EN

EN

R

The River Man

17 mins Stars Connie Corcoran EN

PG13

Who is Dervla Murphy?

73 mins Stars Manchán Magan EN

PG

Brand New Visitor Attraction GPO, O’Connell St Lower, Dublin 1

To book or for further information call: +353 (0) 1 872 1916 e: info@gpowitnesshistory.ie

www.gpowitnesshistory.ie

Image courtesy of the National Library of Ireland

A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012

J

ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

S

ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for €5 each way.

Hooley Nights

For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person.

• • • •

AWARD WINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES

Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: info@jfp.ie

www.jfp.ie

www.facebook.com/Johnniefoxspub

SEAFOOD IS OUR SPECIALITY AWARDWINNING A LA CARTE MENU

Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes.

Business

Business of Sports

This month Bloomberg‘s Business Of Sports, investigates Bayern Munich and the TV Rights for German football. Also from Bloomberg is Studio 1.0, where host Emily Chang sits down with Greylock Partners‘ David Sze and John Lilly. Meanwhile, EuroNews bring us Business Planet, Real Economy and Science/ Hi-Tech /Innovation – all of which cast a cold eye over economics, technology and energy developments.

Comedy

Documentary

Dara & Ed‘s Pan-American Road Trip

Meet the Orangutan‘s follows the extraordinary daily drama in the world‘s oldest orangutan sanctuary. Also available on board are Cosmos: A Spacetime Odyssey which tries to determine the true age of the earth, and National Geographic‘s Access 360 World heritage, which features Everglades National Park as it comes under siege.

For more on food and culture tune into Beer Geeks, Planet Food and Dara & Ed‘s Pan-American Road Trip, travelling through the mountains of Costa Rica to Panama.

S P O T L I G H T: S P O R T

Aer Lingus will be keeping you up to date with all things sport this Summer with weekly highlight shows of the GAA championships.

Lifestyle

Tracks & Trails

Step into the world of food with Made in Italy with Silvia Colloca. Find out the secrets behind the rural cuisine. Tune into Fashion Folk, Design & Decoration and Project Runway All Stars for all things fashion and design. For fans of culture and art Culturefox TV offers a guide to Irish culture and events, whilst Tracks & Trails documents the 15km journey from Valentia Island in Kerry to Bray Head.

Sport

Drama As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of True Detective, Treme and The Walking Dead on offer, as well as episodes from the highly acclaimed series, Game of Thrones, The Sopranos and Graceland.

Modern Family

Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a culture defining series. Now, with four consecutive Emmy Awards for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family returns with Season 6.

Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate a new episode of It‘s Always Sunny in Philadelphia. Also on board are episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Silicon Valley and The Last Man On Earth.

Wild Surf

Kids

Sports fans shouldn't miss Host City Rio, which takes a look at everything that you need to know about the Olympic Games.

Also on board are Wild Surf (a must-watch for Surfing fans!), Guide To The Games and HSBC: Golfing World 2016, for everything golf related.

The New Adventures of Figaro Pho

Kids will surely enjoy Sofia The First, as Sofia meets her hero silent knight Sir Bartleby. Kids may also enjoy charming animated series The New Adventures of Figaro Pho or an imaginative episode of Rocka-Bye Island, Marvel‘s Avengers Assemble or Pip Ahoy!.

News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets

True Detective SEASON 2 The second season of True Detective began airing in June 2015 on the HBO network.

Season two comprises eight episodes and there are a lot of big names in this season’s cast, with a principal cast of Colin Farrell, Rachel McAdams, Vince Vaughn, Taylor Kitsch and Kelly Reilly.

Colin Farrell is Ray Velcoro, a compromised detective in the all-industrial City of Vinci, LA County. Vince Vaughn plays Frank Semyon, a criminal and

entrepreneur in danger of losing his life’s work, while his wife and closest ally (Kelly Reilly), struggles with his choices and her own.

Rachel McAdams is Ani Bezzerides, a Ventura County Sheriff’s detective often at odds with the system she serves, while Taylor Kitsch plays Paul Woodrugh, a war veteran and motorcycle cop.

Season two takes place in California and follows the interweaving stories of the

officers from three cooperating police departments.

A bizarre murder brings together three law-enforcement officers and a career criminal, each of whom must navigate a web of conspiracy and betrayal.

Ultimately season 2 of True Detective offers immense drama as we see a joining of three law enforcement groups, multiple criminal collusions, and billions of dollars.

True Detective is a gritty American anthology crime drama television series created by Nic Pizzolatto

Treme SEASON 4 Treme was created by David Simon, creator of The Wire and Generation Kill and Eric Overmyer, writer-producer of Homicide and Law & Order.

Pierce, Khandi Alexander, Rob Brown, Steve Zahn, Kim Dickens, Melissa Leo, Lucia Micarelli, Michiel Huisman, David Morse, India Ennenga and Jon Seda.

the ability of whether the police department can keep up with the rise in crime is questionable.

What keeps the city afloat through all of this is its culture.

Treme is set in post-Katrina New Orleans and documents the struggles of a diverse group of residents as they rebuild their lives and their city.

The story consists of a diverse group of residents struggling to rebuild New Orleans in the months following Hurricane Katrina.

Treme takes its title from the name of one of the city‘s oldest neighbourhoods, a historically important source of African-American music and culture. The large cast of Treme includes Wendell

Life in New Orleans is getting better, but it‘s not happening fast enough to keep residents from wondering whether things would be easier or better elsewhere. Crime is on the rise in New Orleans and

Mardi Gras Indian chief Albert Lambreaux (Clarke Peters) is sewing in preparation for Mardi Gras. The social aid and pleasure clubs are getting ready to hit the streets in their colourful, fast step finery. And those loveable rogues, Davis McAlary (Steve Zahn) and Antoine Batiste (Wendell Pierce) have cooked up a new set of schemes on and off the bandstand.

Treme depicts the struggles of New Orleans residents rebuilding their lives post-Katrina

The Walking Dead SEASON 6 The Walking Dead is an American horror–drama television series. The sixth season premiered in October 2015 comprising of 16 episodes.

Season six was developed for television by Frank Darabont.

It is based on the eponymous series of comic books by Robert Kirkman, Tony Moore, and Charlie Adlard.

In the first part of the season we see Rick and his group leading the Alexandria community through a series of crises.

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These include the threat of a large herd of walkers and an attack by dangerous scavengers known as the Wolves.

In this new reality, there are new dangers, new opportunities and new complexities to face.

The second half of season six involves Rick and his companions discovering more survivor communities. They make allies of the agrarian Hilltop colony and adversaries of the Saviours, which are led by the ruthless Negan.

To claim their place in this newfound landscape, the group must become the threat themselves. This means becoming as terrifying as any of the adversaries they've encountered.

With no hope of safety in Alexandria, Rick and his band of survivors soon discover a larger world beyond what they understood it to be.

Season six is notable for introducing some eminent comic characters such as Heath, Denise Cloyd, Scott, Dwight, Paul ‘Jesus‘ Rovia, Gregory, and Negan.

OUR TOP TV CHOICE The Walking Dead is a TV series which follows a group trying to survive a zombie apocalypse

FULHAM - LONDON

NOWOPEN

uae | ireland | singapore | usa | uk

an irish welcome, wherever you go. experience the best of ireland at home & abroad

contact@mcgettigans.com | www.mcgettigans.com

Radio On Demand

Our boarding music contains a number of contemporary Irish artists including Clannad, HomeTown, Van Morrison, Dervish, Paddy Casey, HomeTown, Kodaline, Christy Moore, The Script and many more.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

EASY LISTENING

INDIE

IRISH

Blue of the Night

Fitzpatrick Hotels

TXFM‘s Indie Hits

Ceol na nGael

Irish Pulse Broadcast

The Blue of the Night is a musical journey spanning centuries, genres and soundscapes. Presented

by Carl Corcoran.

An hour long compilation of songs that will suit any music taste. Brought to you by The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.

TXFM brings us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as Coldplay, Grimes and Blur.

A traditional music programme presented

by Seán Ó hÉanaigh.

Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.

Irish Pulse brings you some of the most popular hits in Ireland right now.

Listen out for Bressie, Kodaline and many more!

Pop Charts

Louise McSharry All your future favourites in one place, from hip hop to rock and roll. Presented

by Louise McSharry.

KIDS

POETRY

Happy Days

Irish Poetry Corner

Join Emma O’Driscoll for a fun packed show with stories, songs and fun games.

Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish poets.

POP

ROCK

The Eoghan McDermott Show

Radio Nova: Marty Miller

Above average radio… pop culture, cranial acrobatics and he’ll even throw in the odd song.

60 minutes of great guitar music on board your Aer Lingus flight today. Presented by Marty Miller.

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POP

Cooper & Luke – The Big Breakfast 98fm Join Copper and Luke on board your Aer Lingus flight for music and fun.

Pop Charts features the most up-to-the-minute pop hits! Listen to songs

by Omi and Kodaline.

TA L K R A D I O

Documentary on One

Best of Moncrieff

In 1975, Fran O’Toole was killed in the Miami Showband Massacre.

In 1968, Mick Meaney dreamed of breaking the world record for being buried alive.

Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues.

Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

A LT E R N AT I V E

CL ASSIC AL

S P O T L I G H T: KO DA L I N E Kodaline have released their highly anticipated second album Coming up for Air. The Irish group have experimented more with their sound on this album and have created hits such as Honest and The One.

Bruce Springsteen

Annie Lennox Diva Bruce Springsteen The Wild, the Innocent & the E Street Shuffle Mott the Hoople All the Young Dudes

COUNTRY

Brooks & Dunn

Brooks & Dunn #1s... and then Some Cam Untamed Dolly Parton Just because I‘m a Woman Loretta Lynn Full Circle

M E TA L

Amon Amarth

Amon Amarth Jomsviking Bullet for My Valentine Fever Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Yashin The Renegades

Ellie King

Elle King Love Stuff Misty Miller The Whole Family is Worried Natalie Press Side by Side Patti Smith Horses Pink Floyd Pulse (Live)

ELEC TRO

Jean-Michel Jarre & Rone

Faithless Sunday 8 PM Fatboy Slim Palookaville Jean-Michel Jarre & Rone Electronica 2: The Heart of Noise Snakehips Forever, Pt II

OPER A

Simone Kermes & La Magnifica Comunità

Paul Potts One Chance Puccini Il Tabarro Verdi Opera’s Greatest Duets Simone Kermes & La Magnifica Comunità Love

Lucas Debargue

Alliage Quintett & Sabine Meyer Fantasia Khatia Buniatishvili Kaleidoscope Lucas Debargue Scarlatti, Chopin, Liszt & Ravel IRISH

The High Kings

Barbara Dunne Classic Irish Melodies The High Kings Grace & Glory The Gloaming 2

P OP

Meghan Trainor

Meghan Trainor Thank You (Deluxe) Kloe Teenage Craze Kygo Cloud Nine Zayn Mind of Mine (Deluxe Edition)

Aer Lingus are proud supporters of Kodaline, flying the band across our European and North American network as they perform to sell-out audiences.

Exclusively to Aer Lingus guests, you can hear the guys give a track- by-track introduction to their latest album. Get to know the Dublin quartet and the stories behind their creative process and success!

JA Z Z

Miles Davis

Miles Davis Miles Ahead Billie Holiday & Teddy Wilson and his Orchestra The Essential Billie Holiday Benny Goodman and his Orchestra Greatest Hits

RNB

Beyoncé

Anthony Hamilton What I‘m Feelin‘ Empire Cast Empire (Soundtrack Season 2) Beyoncé Lemonade Stevie Wonder A Time 2 Love

KIDS

John Lithgow

John Lithgow Singin‘ In the Bathtub Big Time Rush BTR Johnny Cash The Johnny Cash Children‘s Album

ROCK

Wild Belle

Jeff Buckley You and I Kelvin Jones Stop the Moment Kings of Leon Only by the Night Wild Belle Dreamland

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT

DUBLIN

Where are you flying to?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Passport Control and Security Screening

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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DEPARTURE GATE

DUBLIN

Hop-on Hop-off Tour with Dublin’s Best Tour Guides

• Over 30 Great Stops!!

• Entertaining Live Commentary • Fáilte Ireland trained guides

AIRPORT SPECIAL

€17

Airport Special is a 48Hour Ticket. Available at Airlink Terminus (T1 & T2), and Travel Information Desk (T1)

Direct to City Centre – Up to Every 10 Minutes!!

Airlink Return valid for 3 months from first journey

Dublin Sightseeing

€6

ONE WAY

€10 RETURN

Buy your ticket from: → Travel Information Desk (T1) → Dublin Sightseeing Team at Airlink Bus Stop (T1&T2) → On-board your Airlink Express Bus

greenbusdublin

Bar & Restaurant ‘Home of the Irish Coffee’

Kennedy’s established in 1850 has long since maintained an honourable standing amongst the elite of Dublin’s watering holes.

Indeed it once provided more than a sumptuous pint for the residents of Westland Row and Merrion Square as the front part of the establishment used to be a grocery shop. A shop where young Oscar Wilde earned his first shilling stacking the shelves on Saturday afternoon.

With its location on the doorstep of Trinity College, Kennedy’s enjoys a clientele comprising of the very latest additions to Ireland’s academic body.

Serving Irish Classic in terms of food and a Live Trad Session on Sunday, call into Kennedy’s where you are guaranteed a friendly hospitable atmosphere as well as attentive service.

Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections Which Terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you.

Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening

You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure Lounge

Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us.

We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

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MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie

NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Victoria Seattle

Duluth

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Salt Lake City

Omaha Denver

Reno

Oakland

San Francisco San Jose San Luis Obispo

Des Moines

St Louis

Louisville Nashville

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Los Angeles

Santa Barbara Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego

Fort Wayne Chicago

Springfield

Las Vegas

Memphis Little Rock

Phoenix

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Indianapolis Wichita

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Cedar Rapids

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Akron Canton

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Albany

Hartford

Newark

Columbus Harrisburg

Dayton

Halifax

Burlington Syracuse

Cincinnati

Washington (Dulles)

Providence

Portland ME

Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore

Washington (National)

Lexington

Greensboro

Knoxville

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

Savannah Austin

Houston

San Antonio

New Orleans

Jacksonville

Orlando Tampa

Aer Lingus European and North American Network

Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)

Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)

Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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San Juan Aguadilla

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America.

You can travel from Dublin direct to nine US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

Ponce

Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands

Isle of Man

Knock

Liverpool

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Amsterdam

Berlin

Warsaw

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff

London (Gatwick)

Dusseldorf

Southampton

Exeter

Newquay

Hamburg

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva

(Malpensa)

Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Venice

Milan

Lyon

Milan

(Linate)

Nice

Montpellier Perpignan

Verona Bologna Pula Pisa

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid

Alicante Murcia

Athens Catania

Malaga Faro

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Izmir

Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi.

Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

w

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Johannesburg

Cape Town

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

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WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating.

Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.

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U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder 93 NEW STREET, KILLARNEY, CO. KERRY WWW.IRISHWHISKEYEXPERIENCE.NET

&

Independent Bottler of the year

2015

WWW.CELTICWHISKEYBAR.COM The new home of Irish Whiskey!

6 Irish whiskey masterclasses daily from 10.30am – 6pm You’re sure to leave the Irish Whiskey Experience with a smile on your face and a new appreciation for uisce beatha (the water of life)!

Sláinte!

Ireland’s Whiskey Experts!

27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2. • Ph: +353 (0)1 675 9744 INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING @Celticwhiskey or @Winesonthegreen or www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

Gifts Galore in Boutique

boutique

Luxury shopping at discounted pric es

Your makE-up UPD

&

august – novembe r 2016

sa save ave ve up t to

45%

ATE

skIn SAviOuR

on designer brand s & high street prices

S

JEWEl QuESt

don’t want to go home empty-handed?

Boutique’s got you covered.

beau eauttiful iful pieces for every budget

heaven sent Instant EffEcts EyE

NEW ON-BOARD:

SEKONDA cHRONOGRAPH GENtS WAtcH

for a classic look with a contemporary twist, this handsome sekonda watch has it all. the bright yellow dial and spiffy bezel make it an ideal gift for the man in your life.

LIft & LIp pLumpEr - thE hoLIday drEa m tEam

FuRlA, Gucci, YSl, AviAtOR, PANDOR A

FuRlA ROYAl tRiO

a Boutique firm favourite, this royal trio from Italian brand furla has a clutch for every occasion. With three sizes in butter-soft leather, it’s the perfect present – for you and/or someone else.

AER liNGuS FERGuS tHE BEAR

meet fergus the Bear, easily the cutest aer Lingus pilot. perfect for cuddling, he comes with his own black aviation jacket and aer Lingus scarf, and is ready to fl y fly away with you.

vEHO BluEtOOtH WiRElESS SPEAKER

the ideal gift for someone who’s always on the go, this practical and good-looking Bluetooth speaker can wirelessly connect with your device and has a five-hour playback time, as well as volume and track controls.

BENEFit DO tHE HOOlA

this all-in-one kit will win you mega Brownie points. containing Benefit’s biggest beauty hits, including they’re real! mascara and Benebalm, it’s got everything for a healthy summer glow.

tOBlERONE

suddenly realised you have nothing to bring back to the office? fear not, this toblerone has six bars of delicious nougat triangles – meaning you can even afford to have a mid-flight nibble.

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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | SOUTH ATLANTIC

Top and left, life at sea on the Pelagic Australis. Above, Theo Dorgan in very different attire for the day job.

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Poet/novelist Theo Dorgan finds peace on the South Atlantic. t seemed straightforward enough: join a 21-metre yacht in Punta Arenas, Chile, and help sail it to Cape Town, South Africa. I already had an Atlantic crossing under my belt, had I not?

Perhaps I should have reflected more deeply on what I was signing up for – Antigua to Kinsale in summer is not necessarily the best preparation for the South Atlantic in winter.

There was mystique involved, of course; in all voyages under sail there is always mystique, in this case the irresistible allure of rounding Cape Horn, that graveyard of ships at the end of the world. And there was family piety, too: my great-grandmother had died in childbirth in those Cape waters, giving birth to my grandfather who would, by some random miracle, survive the onward journey to make a long life in Ireland.

Well, we made it into Cape Town after 35 testing days at sea; nobody drowned, nobody broke an arm or a leg, we drank gin with the Governor in Stanley, rode

I

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a lethal swell into the tiny harbour in Tristan da Cunha, faced gales and exhaustion for weeks on end – we brought the boat home, salt-stained and battered but intact, whole and still fit for purpose.

As with all great journeys, the trip filled its own allotment of time and space, sufficient to itself, and had already begun to fade from memory even as we tied to the dock and stepped groggily ashore. What I cannot and will not forget is a particular night when we ran strong and furious before 12-metre quartering waves, under a scrap of sail, in winds gusting to 80 knots, green water roaring in over the bows and crashing over the wheelhouse.

I think of it still, that exact moment when we came back from a knockdown, mast in the water, and I found myself pushing through absolute fear into an exhilaration as unexpected as it was overwhelming and compellingly sane. Out there in the dark and the madness, at the heart of the voyage, I found myself thoroughly and completely at home in my life.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination?

Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 500 words with a portrait shot of yourself.

The editor’s decision is final.

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Looking for the best place to set up in Europe?

Then look no further than Ireland and Bank of Ireland.

Over 70%* of companies setting up in Ireland choose us because we’re the number one corporate bank in Ireland.

Our dedicated FDI team offer extensive experience of the Irish investment market and the varied requirements of international investors.

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Kevin Elliott

Head of Global Foreign Direct Investment Bank of Ireland Corporate Banking +353 (0) 86 259 2496 Email: derek.collins@boi.com

Senior Vice President US Bank of Ireland Corporate Banking +1 212 856 8207 Email: kevin.elliott@boi.com

Visit www.bankofireland.com/fdi

Bank of Ireland is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. * Based on BOI analysis of independent industry statistics 2015.

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