Cara December 2016/January 2017

December 2016/January 2017 CARA Magazine December 2016/January 2017 Graham Norton

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Crowdfunding Dingle

DULCET DINGLE

New York

Lyrical Landscapes & Other Voices

JINGLE BELLES New York Festive Season

Tenerife Chicago

ISLE SURVIVE Derring-Do in Tenerife

Los Angeles Geneva Amsterdam

THE CITY BEAUTIFUL Chicago in the Frame

MASS PRODUCTION

CROWDFUNDING SUCCESS STORIES

Strike a Prose GRAHAM NORTON’S NOVEL TURN

Welcome to Ireland from AIB Corporate Banking

Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248

Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219

Ireland’s No.1 Bank for Inward Investment.

AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland.

As the leading Inward Investment bank, we land more international business than any other, and we’ve helped some of the world’s most recognisable brands thrive.

To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.

Source: AIB has the largest market share of day to day banking relationships amongst foreign direct investment companies, Ipsos MRBI AIB Foreign Direct Investment Research, February 2014.

Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.

CONTENTS December 2016/January 2017

60

Check in 06 WELCOME Aer Lingus reveals their latest news and routes 08 ARRIVALS Warm welcomes at Dublin Airport’s T2 11

NYC, Merrily

CHECK IN What’s hot, hip and hearty this season

22 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Author Paul O’Brien’s favourite gallivants

26 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary round-up 28 5 GOOD REASONS Are you going to San Francisco? asks Eoin Higgins

JULIENNE SCHAER

24 WEEKENDER Eoin Higgins discovers rural chic in Kilkenny

42

30 HIBERNATION HITS Dublin day spas for the win 32

JOLLY HOLIDAYS Lauren Heskin’s merrily-on-highs

Crowdfunding Victors

34 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO GENEVA Claire Heskin clocks in from the Swiss city

Features 36 GOLDEN GRAHAM Lucy White meets national treasure Graham Norton 42 WORKING THE CROWDS Michael McDermott susses crowdfunding successes

50

50 DINGLE’S CALL The Kerry town proves irresistible for Tony Clayton-Lea 60 MANHATTAN Lucy White finds festive spirit in New York 78

WILD CARD Tenerife is more than just a sun-spot, finds action woman Lauren Heskin

88 MY KINDA TOWN Chicago – and all that snazz – by Eoin Higgins

78 Feats in Tenerife

Dingle Delights

Regulars

Business

71

109 BUSINESS & LIFE Russell Simpson’s Los Angeles blockbusters

YOU SAY, WE SAY Catherine Murphy’s edit of your favourite national parks

98 5 HIP ‘HOODS Daragh Reddin lights his beatnik beacon

116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Sommelier Nisea Doddy’s wine o’clocks

106 48 HOURS IN AMSTERDAM Niamh O’Dea’s Dutch darlings

118 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes on the latest sleeps, eats, gadgets and events

125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment

120 SLEEPS & EATS Lucy White’s Beantown bolthole

152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Dubliner John Fearon cycles stateside for charity

122 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Project Arts Centre’s Cian O’Brien

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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Junior Editor Lauren Heskin Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Tony Clayton-Lea, Piotr Dybowski, Claire Heskin, Al Higgins, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Nathalie Marquez Courtney, Michael McDermott, Catherine Murphy, Niamh O’Dea, Daragh Reddin

ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editorial Director Jessie Collins Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill

Aoife Dooley is a freelance illustrator and designer based in Dublin. She studied in Coláiste Dhúlaigh for three years before going on to achieve a first class honours degree in visual communications at DIT. Aoife is best known for her Your One Nikita web comic, whose illustrations are inspired by years of living on Dublin’s northside – and her first book How to be Massive (Gill Books, €12.99) is out now.

Turn to page 114 for her LA illustration.

SE AN BREIT

ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan

HAUPT

Dubliner Kyle Tunney is an award-winning photographer based in New York. Photography has brought him road-tripping thousands of miles across America, canoeing in Canada, dog sledding in Lapland and whitewater kayaking in the Italian and French Alps. For his Cara debut on page 60, Kyle braved the snow and cold winter to capture some of the finest eateries and bars New York has to offer.

BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Patrick Dillon Malone Directors Laura George, Robert Power, Gina Traynor, Raymond Reihill, Sam Power Russell Simpson is an award-winning Northern Irish screenwriter and director.

Most recently he has been staff writing on the CBS show The Inspectors, and just completed his directorial debut on his short-form series, Parole starring Marianne Jean-Baptiste. Although pallid to the point of transparent, Russell now lives and works in the interminable summer of Los Angeles and was delighted when Cara picked his brains for the best of the city – see page 109.

PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9622; image.ie, email corinne.vaughan@image.ie.

Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

December 2016/January 2017

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

DULCET DINGLE

Lyrical Landscapes & Other Voices

JINGLE BELLES New York Festive Season

IMAGE Publications Ltd PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2015

ISLE SURVIVE Derring-Do in Tenerife THE CITY BEAUTIFUL Chicago in the Frame

MASS PRODUCTION

CROWDFUNDING SUCCESS STORIES

Strike a Prose GRAHAM NORTON’S NOVEL TURN

ON THE COVER

Graham Norton photographed

by Gareth Cattermole.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

CARA Magazine December 2016/January 2017

WELCOME ABOARD

New year, new ways to travel ... Aer Lingus looks forward to offering its new services in 2017, including its debut flights to Miami, Porto and Split. elcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly with Aer Lingus today.

If 2016 signalled our transatlantic growth – increased frequency on existing services to North America and new, direct flights from Dublin to Los Angeles, Newark and Hartford – 2017 is all about extending our reach even further. We are very excited to announce the launch of our new Dublin to Miami route, which will operate three times per week from September 2017, introducing guests to the city’s terrific beaches, Art Deco architecture and glittering nightlife.

Our summer 2017 schedule will also feature extra frequency on the Dublin to Los Angeles service, increasing from four times per week to daily. Dublin to Orlando will also grow to a four times’ weekly service, and Dublin to Chicago will increase to two flights daily. Brand new European routes include the much-loved Porto in Northern Portugal and Split, on Croatia’s beautiful Dalmatian coast.

Also exciting is our recently launched AerClub, our new loyalty programme in partnership with Avios, which will not only enable guests to earn points each

W

time they fly – including with our airline partners – but also when they shop with our retail, hotel and leisure affiliates in Ireland and abroad. Moreover, AerClubbers will have access to thousands of brands online via the Avios eStore (shopping.avios. com) as well as on the ground with our selected retail partners, allowing customers to collect – and redeem – rewards quicker.

It’s our way of saying thanks for flying with us.

We will continue to build on our achievements of 2016, among them being awarded Ireland’s first and only four-star rating by Skytrax, after their month-long audit of our “end-to-end” service. We are also triumphing in timekeeping, delivering higher levels of punctuality from our main Dublin base than our competitors, while our check-in and boarding experience has been a resounding success: our automated bag drop facility at Dublin airport has cut the total drop-off time to an average of just three minutes.

So, without further ado: Enjoy the holidays, have a happy and prosperous new year, and we look forward to having you on board in 2017.

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

MIAMI NICE Pastel T-shirts and linen suits at the ready – we are delighted to announce our new transatlantic route to Miami, Florida, operating three times per week from September 2017.

WITH BENEFITS AerClub, our newly launched loyalty programme, offers exciting new rewards for guests. By collecting Avios points, you can turn your flights and shopping into reward flights with Aer Lingus and our partner airlines.

STAR QUALITY From punctuality to efficient check-in and boarding, Aer Lingus has really earned its stripes in 2016, fighting off its Irish competitors with a four-star airline rating by Skytrax.

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WHO? Valérie Escolé FLYING IN FROM ... Marseille VALÉRIE SAYS ...

“I only have four days to see everything, one day in Dublin and then I’ll decide where to next.”

WHO? Raymond Wastenberg and Janet Storm FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam RAYMOND SAYS ... “We’ve got six days in Dublin so hopefully that’s enough time to see the sights and visit every pub.”

WHO? Sarah Schlüpmann FLYING IN FROM ... Hamburg SARAH SAYS ... “I graduated recently and this is my first time travelling alone. I’m going to Mountnugent to work with horses for ten months.”

ARRIVALS

Cara was at Dublin Airport’s T2 to greet a new crop of visitors, from graduates to yoga-retreaters.

WHO? Katharina Wagner and Thomas Venkhofer FLYING IN FROM ... Frankfurt KATHARINA SAYS ... “We’re on the way to Sligo to study business for four months.”

WORDS BY LAUREN HESKIN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? Brian Hartman FLYING IN FROM ... London BRIAN SAYS ... “I’m from Denver, Colorado but I’ve been to Ireland before. This time, I want to see Cork.”

WHO? Henry Rantzau and Friedrich Hastedt FLYING IN FROM ... Hamburg FRIEDRICH SAYS ... “We just met in the airport but we’ll be studying together in Ireland.”

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WHO? Juliane Hastedt and Juliette Letort FLYING IN FROM ... Hamburg JULIANE SAYS ... “We’re back to start the new semester but we already know each other, we roomed together last year.”

WHO? Bailey Himel FLYING IN FROM ... Milan BAILEY SAYS ... “I’m doing a yoga retreat in Co Clare.”

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Check in

Find out what’s on, where and when in December 2016 and into the New Year

PRINTS CHARMING Should proof ever be needed that Elton John has not just an eye for natty suits, here it is – an exhibition of rare, vintage photographs from his private collection. Lavishly entitled The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography from the Sir Elton John Collection at London’s Tate Modern, the show features Modernist highlights from the 1920s to the 1950s, among them works by pioneering photographers Man Ray, Irving Penn, Dorothea Lange and Margaret Bourke-White. Subjects include still life, nudes, solarisation experiments and also portraits of trailblazers of the period, including Salvador Dalí, above, Pablo Picasso and Igor Stravinsky. Until May 2017. tate.org.uk

STAY

4 BEST SKI RETREATS Picture perfect properties for resting piste-weary bones ...

Le Chalet Zannier, France Skiers with an aversion to bright yellow pine will love the restrained palette at this exclusive mountain lodge – 12 rooms and suites – near the upmarket village of Megève.

When not wearing their ski boots, its well-heeled guests are either resting their sore bits in its wellness centre or fine-dining at bistro La Ferme de mon Père.

B&B from €550; fly into Geneva. lechaletzannier.com

Eibsee-Hotel, Germany

This four-star Bavarian beauty dates back to 1884 and is an excellent all-rounder. Families, especially, are well catered for here, with ski safaris, tobogganing and indoor climbing for children of all ages. Its lakeside location at the foot of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain, means epic snow-sporting opportunities as well as vistas. B&B from €132; fly into Munich. eibsee-hotel.de

CULTURE

Ahead of the Curve

Designed by Stirling Prize-winning architect Amanda Levete, Lisbon’s new Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology offers yet another reason to visit one of Europe’s most user-friendly destinations. MAAT aims to deliver art for everyone, with the 1,000-square-metre Pynchon Park the first of a series of thoughtprovoking but accessible exhibitions and events. maat.pt

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Walserhof, Switzerland

Keep your eyes peeled for Prince Charles on the piste in Klosters – he’s a huge fan of this chic yet unpretentious resort, which centres around Parsenn’s mighty slopes. Boutique hotel Walserhof offers the warmest of welcomes thanks to hospitable husband-and-wife owners, while rooms and suites are stylish, homely, ergonomic and highspec. Rooms rates POA; fly into Zurich. walserhof.ch

El Lodge Ski Resort & Spa, Spain Often

overlooked as a winter sports’ destination, Spain is a slope less travelled for many a skier and snowboarder – which makes Andalucía’s Sierra Nevada all the more attractive for its lack of obviousness.

El Lodge has a dapper Nordic aesthetic, a spa, al fresco pool and, in some suites, balcony Jacuzzis. Rooms from €315; fly into Malaga. ellodge.com

Compiled by Eoin Higgins, Ingmar Kiang and Lucy White.

SIGHTSEEING

Barcelona Bargain

The Barcelona Pass offers entry to 15 of the best-loved attractions and tours in the Catalan capital, plus a hop-on/hop-off bus tour and an 80-page guidebook. Highlights include tours of the Camp Nou stadium and Gaudí’s Casa Batlló. Two/three-day adult passes cost €99/€119; children (4-12 years) cost €59/€69. barcelonapass.com

SHOPPING

BED AND BRATWURST Attracting more than 350,000 visitors, Galway’s Christmas Market is the largest of its kind in Ireland.

Browse a huge range of artisan foods and gift ideas, and finish with a bratwurst and beer from the Bierkeller. Lastminute types should note the market closes on December 22. And with all those crowds, a canny accommodation choice is only a mile up the road in Salthill. Boutique hostel The Nest combines eco-friendly luxury with budget pricing: choose between dorms or private rooms, with quality bedding, free Wi-Fi, and use of social areas including a fully equipped kitchen. A buffet-style breakfast is also included. thenestaccommodation.com

des (American Beauty, BACK ON BOARDS A-list director Sam Men ywood to present Jez Road to Perdition) takes a break from Holl set in rural Derry during Butterworth’s The Ferryman, a dark tale l 24, but now’s the time the Troubles. Opening night isn’t until Apri . royalcourttheatre.com to book one of the hottest tickets of the year

HOTELS.

ROOM SAVERS Hotel Week NYC this January 6-15 offers big savings on Big Apple accommodation at more than a dozen upmarket locations, including The Archer, Elysee and Gansevoort Park Avenue, right. Deals at the super-plush hotels, many of which usually charge more than $500 per night, include rooms for $100 or $200. Bargains for millionaires. hotelweeknyc.com

CARNIVAL

WINTER WONDERS Now in its 16th year, the Fifth Third Bank Winter WonderFest has become a seasonal tradition for millions of families in the Windy City. Open from December 2 until January 7, with a massive 15,800 square metres of carnival rides, giant slides, holiday-themed activities, plus the Chicago Blackhawks Ice Skating Rink, it’s American-style fun at its biggest and best. navypier.com

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DIASPORA

SPANISH SCENE

What are you working on at the moment? I am currently adapting a Robert Lautner novel, The Road to Reckoning (a western, which is fun), and writing a thriller set in 1916 Dublin called Come Monday, We Kill Them All with a friend and fellow-screenwriter Michael Kinirons. Right after that, I will start work on an Icelandic period horror called The Damned and then a science-fiction thriller entitled Airlock.

What can you tell us about Pilgrimage? It is a sort of medieval Irish western about a group of monks who are ordered to bring their monastery’s holiest relic to Rome. Tom Holland (Spider-Man: Homecoming) plays the youngest monk, Jon Bernthal (Daredevil) plays a mute lay-brother, while Richard Armitage (The Hobbit) is an unscrupulous Norman knight they encounter on their way. I believe it is coming out next spring.

How did you get into screenwriting and directing?

After college I did various part-time jobs while I was writing (mostly terrible) unproduced feature scripts and making no-budget short films. The no-budget short films led to slightly-more-budget short films, which in turn led to a grant from the Irish Film Board to write a feature script. That script led to another and ... well, here I am.

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ANTONELLA CORDA

A Madrid resident for almost four years, screenwriter Jamie Hannigan started creating short stories and scripts as a teenager growing up in Kilcloon, Co Meath. He studied journalism at the Dublin Institute of Technology but has focused almost exclusively on fiction since.

His screenwriting work has been coming from Dublin and London – his next film Pilgrimage is out in 2017 – so he travels back and forth from the Spanish capital. He does some directing, most recently a music video called Ora for his sister Lisa Hannigan.

Why Madrid? My girlfriend (now wife) had been living in Dublin for quite a few years. We wanted to live somewhere else in Europe while we were still relatively young; somewhere warmer, cheaper, but within a few hours travel of both Ireland and Sardinia, where she is from.

Describe your “journey” in learning Spanish ... I write (and think) in English and can’t afford to study full time for much more than a week, so my progress has been embarrassingly slow. For example, in my first year I would routinely mix up tomar (to take) and tocar (to touch), which led to some awkward misunderstandings in various cafés and bakeries (“I’d like to touch some of your pastries, please”). I’m a little bit better now.

Biggest culture shock when moving from Ireland to Spain?

Aside from the general rhythm of daily life (where you don’t even consider having dinner until well after nine), the biggest thing to adjust to was how tactile Spanish culture is. The simple act of saying

“hello” or “goodbye” provokes a great deal of touching, hugging and kissing cheeks, which gets you some funny looks when you try it back in Ireland.

What do you miss most about Ireland when you’re away for long periods of time – and ditto Spain? When I’m in Spain I miss my friends and family, second-hand (English language) bookshops and greenery. When I’m in Ireland I miss tapas, cheap public transport, the smell of fresh bread and balmy night-time strolls.

Has anyone from back home sent you a care package? My mother periodically sends me large Ziploc bags filled with Barry’s teabags.

Don’t look at me like that – I know I’m not the only one.

To what extent does where you live inspire your work? If I’m stuck on a story, I sometimes take long walks to try to re-juggle the jigsaw bits in my head. Madrid is a good city for that: lots of wide pavements and tree-lined avenues that seem custom-built for aimless strolling.

What are your three favourite places in Madrid? My favourite bar might be La Musa de Espronceda (Calle de Santa Isabel, Metro Antón Martín) for the pinchos; the Atocha train station for the incongruous tropical garden and Parque Dehesa de la Villa because it’s always quiet and has lovely views over the Casa de Campo.

Do you possess musical genes like your sister – or does she have the capacity for filmmaking? I can sing but lack the patience to play anything more complicated than a harmonica. Lisa’s the smart one. I’ve no doubt she could do anything she put her mind to, least of all filmmaking.

If you could take only one movie/box-set to a desert island, what would it be? I should probably say something like The Godfather or Blade Runner but necessity would probably require me to bring a Bear Grylls box-set about the essentials of living on a desert island or some such.

Take the spirit of Ireland home with you.

Explore The Loop at Dublin and Cork Airports where you will find premium brands at low prices. Discover the true taste of Ireland and visit The Irish Whiskey Collection, home to over 365 different types of whiskey. Our superb range offers signature names, unique collectable items and is the perfect way to bring a taste of Ireland home with you.

shop online at theloop.ie

NEW YEAR’S EVE

Join 150,000 visitors from 80 countries for the world’s biggest New Year’s Eve party. Famous for its torchlit procession, Edinburgh’s Hogmanay is also the UK’s most popular winter festival, with 75,000 expected to watch Paolo Nutini and other acts including the Charlatans performing over the three days, from December 30 2016 to January 1. It’s family-friendly too, with Sprogmanay (ha!) offering arts and crafts, storytelling, music and dancing for the wee bairns. edinburghshogmanay.com

LLOYD SMITTH

HOGMANAY HOOTS

TECHNOLOGY

Get in the

Game

FESTIVAL

BOWIE TRIBUTE Waiting for the gift of sound and vision?

With painting, literature, film and fashion, the eclectic influences that informed David Bowie’s work are mirrored in the second Dublin Bowie Festival from January 5-10.

Spread over a dozen city-centre venues, the festival pays tribute with a packed programme of live music, movie screenings, Q&As, a quiz, literary events, a festival club, fine art, karaoke, merchandise sales and more. dublinbowiefestival.ie

Running in London Fields until late January, the Celestial Chain takes live gaming to new levels, combining intricately planned game design with high-end technology.

Channel your inner action-hero in an adrenaline-fuelled quest to save the world – perfect for thrill-seeking novices and experienced gamers alike. time-run.com

CONCERT

CLASSICAL CLUB Get your melon truly twisted as Haçienda Classical makes its Irish debut at Dublin’s 3Arena on December 17. New Order’s Peter Hook, Rowetta from Happy Mondays, and original Haçienda DJ Graeme Park join the RTÉ Concert Orchestra and AMC Gospel Choir to create a ground-breaking classical/acid house mash-up. Tickets €59.50 at ticketmaster.ie.

ROMAN GEMS Jewellery exhibition Bulgari and Rome celebrates inspiration of thethree Eternal City on the famed PICNIC TIME Closing off the Irish festival season in true mud-soaked-boots style, Electric Picnic the returns for another days Italianand jewellers. at Madrid’s Museo untiland February 26, the exhibit also features paintings, of music, food, unfettered socialising art this Held September 2-4. Lana DelThyssen-Bornemisza Rey, LCD Soundsystem The Chemical Brothers sculptures and photographs the likes of Canaletto, Gaspar van Wittelelectricpicnic.ie and Arthur John Strutt. museothyssen.org are headlining alongside fringe comedy acts, tasty food stalls,byart installations and a pop-up eco-village.

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Now at Dublin Airport connecting passengers can get a personal assistant It’s called DUB HUB and it’s a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight. It couldn’t be easier with:

Free WiFi

No data roaming charges

No log in

No download necessary

DUB HUB is available in Deutsch, English, Español, Français, Gaeilge and Italiano.

Simply go to dublinairport.com/dubhub or scan this code.

Check in

Breakfast

Eagle’s Deli, Boston I spent a summer here caddying at the nearby Country Club in Brookline, just ten minutes up the road. Eagle’s Deli was a daily stop off for their classic American breakfast fare. I was a big fan of the French toast; other highlights include the double stacker sandwich, three-egg omelette and cream-cheese bagel. This was one place where I remember being immersed in the real American diner experience. One of Boston’s finest. eaglesdeli.com

Lunch

PHOTOGRAPH BY MELANIE MULLAN

Xi’an Famous Foods, New York I was introduced to this place by a chef friend last March. The original shop was a street food shack in Queens, serving Northern Chinese fare. Having featured in an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations, the business took off and they now run 11 outlets.

The food is insanely tasty and authentically Chinese with Middle Eastern influences due to the city of Xi’an’s proximity to the Old Silk Road in ancient times. Try the lamb and cumin burger with pickled jalapeños, the braised oxtail and chilli hand-ripped noodles or the lamb-shoulder dumplings – simply mouth-watering. xianfoods.com

FOOD

FOOD FLIGHT With the San Pellegrino Young Chef of the Year 2015 award held tightly under his belt, 24-year-old Irishman Mark Moriarty has previously been lauded by worldrenowned chefs, from Massimo Bottura to Grant Achatz. Here, he takes us with him on his ultimate fantasy dining day out.

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Dinner

Le Bistrot Paul Bert, Paris A must visit for any food lover in Paris. The entrance on Rue de Paul Bert is hidden behind a curtain. It’s old-school Parisian cuisine cooked in a dining room from the 1950s.

Expect things like blanquette of veal, rib eye of beef with bernaise, grilled sole à la Grenobloise, Parisbrest, lemon tart … the list goes on. Order the cheese and you get the whole board for five minutes! The set dinner menu is great value at €40 and all the wines are served by the glass. +33 143 722 401

Drinks

Duck and Waffle, London Located on the 40th floor of 110 Bishopsgate, here you’ll find perhaps the best view from any bar in London. The restaurant, run by chef Dan Doherty, caters to everyone’s needs and is open 24/7. The highlights of a fantastic cocktail list include a hay-infused whiskey and malt mix, as well a woodland negroni. Sit back, take in the breathtaking view and indulge in some of the solid bar snacks on offer. duckandwaffle.com

Looking for the best place to set up in Europe?

Look no further than Ireland and Bank of Ireland.

Over 70%* of companies setting up in Ireland choose us because we’re the number one corporate bank in Ireland.

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Kevin Elliott

Head of Global Foreign Direct Investment Bank of Ireland Corporate Banking +353 (0) 86 259 2496 Email: derek.collins@boi.com

Senior Vice President US Bank of Ireland Corporate Banking +1 212 856 8207 Email: kevin.elliott@boi.com

www.bankofireland.com/fdi

Bank of Ireland is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. * Based on BOI analysis of independent industry statistics 2016.

Corporate Banking

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#CARA VIEW

NEW YORK “This photo was taken on a walk around the Bushwick area in Brooklyn, which has some amazing graffiti and street art. It was pouring with rain at the time, but seeing the incredible art more than made up for it.”

Oona MacDonald, Birmingham; @oonamac

You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily, from Shannon six times per week, and from Dublin to Newark, New Jersey, daily.

BRUSSELS “My partner, Rashpal, and I love to travel, and we kicked off November by taking a long weekend away exploring the city of Brussels. We were determined to make the most of Belgian culture. We spent most of our last day getting lost in the famous Grote Markt, known for their waffles, amongst other specialties.”

Letisha Vilkhu, London; @letishavilkhu

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Brussels twice daily.

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SAN FRANCISCO “Taken from Battery Spencer, after lunch with my dad in nearby Sausalito. It was my boyfriend Samuel’s first trip to San Francisco and he had been expecting the famous California sunshine but the annual fog meant it was particularly cold and windy at the viewing point! Still, so worth it for the unparalleled views of the bridge.”

Gráinne Wylde, London; @grainneiswylde

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco five times per week.

OVER TO YOU

Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder

DONEGAL “I haven’t lived in Donegal for over five years, but I appreciate it more than ever when I go home. This photo is taken at Fanad lighthouse on a gorgeous, sunny September day – so worth the trip.”

Emma Mulhern, Donegal; @ems_mul

NEW YORK “This picture was taken from the top of a rock in Central Park, NYC. I was there on holiday for the first time and I really liked this view with the contrast between the green of the park and the skyscrapers of the city behind. ” Katherine Tarling, London; @katgrace91

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily, from Shannon six times per week, and from Dublin to Newark, New Jersey, daily.

LISBON “Enjoying the early morning sunshine just off the Praça do Comércio in quiet Lisbon.”

Vicki Walsh, Wicklow; @imvcki

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon daily.

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IF I COULD FLY ANYWHERE TOMORROW IT WOULD BE TO … Orlando. I love the weather, the villas, the coastline and the theme parks. I was dragged to Disneyworld seven years ago with my young daughter and wife. I think Disney sensed my cynicism, because within ten minutes they had me in their parade waving the American flag and throwing my wallet at them.

My idea of travel heaven is driving up the M50 to D ublin A irport with The Killers playing (tha t’s a family travel tradit ion) our bags in the boo t, everyone in sensible, baggy travel gear while we inch closer to ano ther adven ture.

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT ... In the early days, my family and I used to love travelling around the West of Ireland.

One year we hit upon the best chipper in the world, Reel Dingle, Co Kerry. I’ll never forget the contentment, after a long day, of all of us sitting by the water, silently taking in the beauty of the place and having real chips.

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MY FAVOURITE PLACE FOR A WEEKEND BREAK IS ... The Wicklow mountains; close to home but far enough to be “away”. I can also get data on my phone – my cat pictures won’t upload themselves. (I don’t have any cats. Particularly in the Wicklow hills.)

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK PAUL O’BRIEN is an award-winning writer from Wexford, his Blood Red Turns Dollar Green trilogy of novels a global bestseller. He has two US TV pilots in development, while his first feature film, Staid, won Best Foreign Feature Film award at the Los Angeles Indepedent Film Festival in June 2016.

Paul is currently writing the autobiography of WWE legend and Hall of Famer, Jim Ross.

BEST HOTEL IN THE WORLD ... We got to stay in One UN Plaza this year for the first time. The view of Manhattan was spectacular; watching the day to turn to night was a show all of its own. I would definitely recommend it as a New York stopover.

BEST BAR IN THE WORLD ... The Sky and the Ground in my Wexford hometown is just magic. It takes risks on bringing in touring musical acts, supports local bands, and even gave me their keys for three weeks as I filmed my first movie there!

LAST TRIP ... A work/holiday hybrid that took us to Dallas, Texas. We stayed in an amazing apartment just outside the city and sampled everything from the food to the shopping, to being front row at Wrestlemania with 110,000 people around us. It was a trip of a lifetime.

Liam Quirke Partnership Chairman Head of Brexit Advisory Group

Matheson. The law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland.

Liam Quirke is the Partnership Chairman of Matheson. He is also the head of Matheson’s London office and leads the firm’s Brexit Advisory Group.

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We have invested in growing our strength where our clients are located and are the only Irish law firm with partner-level financial services expertise in Dublin, London, New York and Palo Alto.

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Dublin – Michael Jackson, Managing Partner michael.jackson@matheson.com

European Law Firm of the Year The Hedge Fund Journal 2015

London – Liam Quirke, Partnership Chairman and Head of Brexit Advisory Group liam.quirke@matheson.com

Financial Times 2012-2016 Matheson is ranked in the FT50 most innovative law firms in Europe 2016. Matheson has also been commended by the Financial Times for innovation in corporate law, finance law, dispute resolution, corporate strategy, human resources, technology and data analytics.

New York – John Ryan, Head of US Offices john.ryan@matheson.com Palo Alto – Mark O’Sullivan, Partner mark.osullivan@matheson.com

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GO SMART | KILKENNY

A Quiet Corner

The estate at Ballilogue becomes a state of mind rather than a destination, as Eoin Higgins discovers. n Ireland’s Ancient East, Co Kilkenny may still be reeling for having not won the European City of Culture ding-dong earlier this year – damn you Galway and your laid-back boho charm! – but its attractiveness as a destination hasn’t diminished. And while most of the touristic attention the county gleans seems directed at the ever-popular Kilkenny city, with its 12th-century castle, quirky festival scene and hip shopping opportunities, not to mention its small, yet perfectly executed, food scene, it’s easy to see why. But, for me at least, it’s the county’s rich rural hinterland – a relatively untapped resource – that makes it a magic destination throughout the year.

Take, for instance, the quietly pleasing Inistioge: cosy pubs and crackling fires, a winsome village green, interesting shops and close proximity to the beautiful Woodstock Estate, and that’s before you get to spending afternoons sitting alongside the banks of the River Nore watching fly fishermen and women swooshing their flies across the weir, or perhaps having a bit of a swoosh yourself, if that’s your thing. But for those seeking even greater escape – away from the

I

WHAT TO PACK Red Wing 6-Inch Moc Toe Boots, €318.66 at asos.com

Tom Ford Noir Extreme, €67.15 at The Loop Duty Free at Dublin and Cork airports

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craic-having crowds of Kilkenny’s city, towns and villages – head further into its southern interior, to a townland with a curious name: The Rower. There, you’ll find Ballilogue – a trio of buildings that have been lovingly restored and reimagined by a talented team, marrying the modest of cons and contemporary style to the peace and structural charm of the old Irish country home vernacular.

The three unique spaces make an ideal venue for a small wedding, a homely spot for family gatherings, a great place for get-togethers or just a brilliant bolthole to escape to with friends. Yet, versatile as it is, the beauty and uniqueness of it lies in its rural, tranquil setting and

Before and After Shave Cream, €41 at Santa Maria Novella, Westbury Mall, Dublin 2

Maynard’s 40 Year Old Tawny Port, €49.99 at Aldi

Show off your culinary chops in Ballilogue’s lovely kitchen, above, or simply kick back and admire the beautiful renovations, top.

its rich history as a preserved Irish stone village, whose restoration has honoured its past while embracing modern design.

It’s also a prime getaway location to show off any culinary chops you may been honing at home; fully equipped kitchens mark these properties out as destinations to spend a few days dining like lords and ladies. But if the idea of slaving over a hot stove has all the appeal of a spreadsheet, there is also the option of private dining, which can be arranged as part of the experience. Choose from two-, fouror five-bedroomed comfort from €520 for a minimum two-night stay.

Whatever spin you want to put on your visit, and there are many ways to stay, the award-winning Ballilogue Estate, with its beautiful gardens and architecturally designed interiors, will surely be an inspiring backdrop. ballilogue.com

Nikon 8x42 Binoculars, €339 at camera.ie

Hidden Kilkenny by John Keane, €17.99 at mercierpress.ie

Norse Projects Elias Military Jacket, €675 at Indigo & Cloth, Temple Bar, Dublin 2

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Get in touch Dublin Jonathan Kelly jkelly@philiplee.ie Andreas McConnell amcconnell@philiplee.ie Brussels Philip Lee plee@philiplee.ie San Francisco Sarah Johnson sjohnson@philiplee.ie

7/8 Wilton Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland T: IRE:+353 1 237 3700; USA:+1 415 213 2836 info@philiplee.ie philiplee.ie

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican checks out new reads, a podcast and an end-of-year festival.

CREATING HISTORY, STORIES OF IRELAND IN ART

© BURY ART MUSEUM, GREATER MANCHESTER

EDITED BY BRENDAN ROONEY (IRISH ACADEMIC PRESS)

FICTION THE WOMAN ON THE STAIRS

by Bernhard Schlink (Weidenfeld & Nicolson) English translation of this elegant thriller, published in Germany in 2014. Partly inspired

by Gerhard Richter’s painting, Ema (Nude Descending), this tells the tale of a love triangle – woman (muse), husband, artist – and a disappearing painting. Told by the lawyer hired by the woman, the action moves from Frankfurt to Sydney. Witty and fast-paced.

TRAVEL VENICE, AN INTERIOR by Javier Marias (Hamish Hamilton) An evocative account of the floating city by the award-winning Spanish author, who lived on and off in Venice in the 1980s, learning “to take the strangest short-cuts simply because certain streets were impossible to walk along, clogged as they were with slow, vociferous flocks of tourists”, as he wrote for The New Republic. An insider-outsider tale of the labyrinthine alleys, green canals and masked balls.

MEMOIR WALK THROUGH WALLS by Marina Abramovic (Fig Tree) She probably did walk through walls; she certainly walked around one – the Great Wall of China, on foot. The world’s most famous performance artist and agent provocateur comes clean about her life, from the Balkans, to Amsterdam, to New York, from cutting, burning and hitting, to sitting and looking. True fans can get one of 100 signed and numbered collectors’ editions.

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Published as catalogue and commentary to the National Gallery of Ireland’s exhibition of the same name that runs until January 15 2017, Creating History reprints more than 50 narrative paintings from the 1600s to 1930s, which depict, or are inspired by, key moments in Irish history. Here are scenes of the personal and the heroic – Collins on his deathbed, Casement in the dock – the battles, from Clontarf to 1916, the crowd scenes, the evictions, the famine, the funerals and the enlistments (Lady Elizabeth Butler’s Listing for the Connaught Rangers: Recruiting in Ireland, 1879, left).

Artists include John Lavery, Jack B Yeats, William Orpen and Seán Keating, with essays by art critics and historians, including Roy Foster and Ruth Kenny.

DOWNLOAD

WELCOMING 2017 Three time’s a charm? The third New Year’s Festival (NYF) Dublin returns this December 30 to January 1, with a lively threeday programme of entertainment including the Lingo Poetry Slam and a concert featuring performances from The Blizzards, Little Hours, Dublin Gospel Choir and Walking on Cars, above. nyfdublin.com

PODCAST LONGFORM Now in its fourth year, Longform tells the stories behind the stories. The hosts, Aaron Lammer, Max Linsky and Evan Ratliff, talk to authors and editors of longform nonfiction – the kind of articles that appear in The New Yorker, Harper’s and Granta – and encourage them to reveal the secrets of their craft. It amounts to a masterclass in narrative nonfiction, wide-ranging in interests: Seymour Hersh on The Killing of Osama Bin Laden; Shane Bauer on going undercover as a prison guard and Elizabeth Gilbert (Eat, Pray, Love) on the platinum rule of journalism (and life): “Don’t be a dick”. longform.org

2015 Europe's Leading Tourist Attraction

GO SMART | SAN FRANCISCO

5 Good Reasons

... to see San Francisco. Eoin Higgins delights in a culinary and cultural melting pot.

PEACHY PICKINGS A melting pot of cuisines, flavours, tastes, aromas and globe-spanning cooking styles, SF is nothing if not gastronomically mixed up, in a very good way. From the unmistakable influences of Japan and Korea to the Latin vibes wafting through the Mission, the city is a seemingly impossible crucible of creative culinary fireworks – a city that has to be eaten to be believed.

TOP ACQUISITIONS Union Square, Fisherman’s Wharf, Chinatown, HaightAshbury ... whether it’s the treasure trove bookstores of North Beach and the Mission, or the exotic bits ‘n’ bobs of Chinatown, the entire city is awash with things you would happily burst a suitcase over, especially this time of year when you may be looking for the perfect something for that certain someone who has everything. dogearedbooks.com

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ROAD GOLD Get your motor running, head out on the highway, looking for adventure, and whatever comes your way ... SF is not just a gateway to wine country – Sonoma and Napa are on its doorstep – it’s also a perfect starting point for a road-trip to Big Sur. Follow the threehour route along rugged and windswept Highway One, while the majestic beauty of Northern California unfurls alongside. aerlinguscars.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SAN FRANCI SCO five times weekly.

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CULTURAL CHOPS More galleries, more theatre, more gigs, more museums ... Just when you think the Bay City has reached peak culture ... oops there it is: another gallery, museum, “space” opens up to add to the city’s seeming unquenchable thirst for all things artistic. This year’s most hotly-anticipated addition was the renovation of SFMOMA, replete with its Snøhetta extension that has almost tripled gallery space. sfmoma.org

MAKING A SCENE Whether you want to channel Steve McQueen in Bullitt, Cate Blanchett in Blue Jasmine, Gene Hackman in The Conversation – or perhaps Kim Novak in Vertigo is who you wanna be – this is a perfect city in which to act out filmic fantasies. The best way to get you up close and personal with Frank Bullitt’s apartment, the house where Robin Williams’ family lived in Mrs Doubtfire, and many more cool movie locations, is to jump on a San Francisco movie tour bus. sanfranciscomovietours.com

ADVERTORIAL

REMEMBER As the only European capital with US pre-clearance, Dublin Airport makes your journey easier.

Easy Aer Lingus Flight Connections at Dublin Airport Moving through Dublin Airport has never been easier – staff at the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk are here to assist, be it with baggage, boarding passes, or ESTA queries and requirements, leaving you with more time to relax, shop, eat and drink before your onward journey. Follow the clear signage throughout the airport that will help you get to your connecting gate with ease. You can also go online with a clear conscience; Wi-Fi at the airport is free, meaning zero data roaming charges. Furthermore, there’s no need to get lost in translation – connecting companion DUB HUB is now available in five languages.

DUB HUB is a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight.

6 EASY STEPS FOR CONNECTING AT DUBLIN AIRPORT 1. Listen to on-board announcements – as you taxi towards your gate on arrival, listen out for any information that the flight crew may have. They sometimes detail flight or gate changes.

3. Use Dublin Airport’s free Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB on your mobile device. No data roaming charges, downloads or login required. DUB HUB is in English, Français, Italiano, Español, Deutsch and Gaeilge.

2. Do you have your boarding card? If not, proceed to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections desk where staff are on hand to help you with any queries.

4. On the DUB HUB home page, enter your Aer Lingus flight number to get your gate number and the time you have before your flight starts to board.

USE THE DUB HUB COMPANION MAP Smartphone or tablet users can access the free DUB HUB easy connecting companion as soon as you arrive in Dublin Airport. It’s powered by Google, and will show you the quickest, easiest route to your connecting flight. Remember to use free Dublin Airport Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB without using your mobile data or incurring roaming charges.

Free Wi-Fi

No Data Roaming Charges

No Log in

5. Pass through security, remember to check your gate number on the Flight Information Display Screens in case of change.

6. For all Terminal 2 departure gates, be it for Europe or US pre-clearance, take the escalator upstairs. For Terminal 1, please follow the signs.

DUB HUB makes everything easier, when you’re connecting through Dublin Airport.

Simply go to: dublinairport.com/ dubhub or scan this code.

No Download Necessary

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Hibernation Hits

Treat a loved one – or yourself – to the gift of a Dublin day spa. epending on when you’re reading this, you’ll either be in the grip of party season or recovering from it. Either way, there are few better ways of withdrawing from the cold than into the scented, steaming sanctuary of a spa, from wet rooms to treatment suites, hammams to swimming pools. And whether you’re a native or a visitor to the Irish capital, Dublin has its fair share of winter-warming treats.

Pass through a winding warren of corridors to discover the Dawson Spa (thedawson.ie), tucked away at the far end of the Dawson Hotel.

Minutes from leafy St Stephen’s Green and the smart shops of Grafton Street, the Dawson is a muted, warm and inviting space – just the right ambience to get one into a languid headspace. Opt for a seasonal package – December Decadence (from €99), for example, combines a luxurious chocolate body scrub, cocoa butter full body massage, and a hair and scalp massage, that will leave one feeling soft, supple and very tranquil indeed.

Just around the block is the stately Shelbourne Hotel, whose oasis is in a townhouse a few doors down, towards Merrion Row.

D

There, The Spa at the Shelbourne (shelbournespa.ie) is guaranteed to lift the spirits of even the most melancholic SAD sufferer, with its bright and airy swimming pool, gym, steam room and sauna. Make an afternoon of it with a Cleopatra Spa Ritual (€189), which comprises a seriously good (and bespoke) full-body massage, rosewater facial and skin-softening milk cocoon, finished off with a glass of bubbles and a fresh fig with honeycomb ice cream, in what was probably once a bedroom but is now an antiquefestooned relaxation suite. Or, twice as nice – literally – is the Panpuri Oriental Ritual, which is expertly administered by two therapists working in tandem (€259).

The super slick Marker Hotel (themarkerhoteldublin.com) is at Grand Canal Quay. Its elemental, urban aesthetic flows through the angular main lobby and bar into the hard-to-achieve contemporaryyet-comfortable Marker Spa. While this belle of a hotel has a swimming pool, gym and sauna,

In safe hands – surrender to a treatment at The Spa at the Shelbourne, above, or kick back poolside at the Marker Spa, top.

its crowning glory is the range of luxurious treatments – pop in for a pre- or post-party pick-me-up with a bespoke SkinCeuticals chemical peel (€110). Far more indulgent than it sounds, maestro facialists will bring your visage back to life with 30 glorious minutes of facial massage and moisturisation. And don’t skip the plush relaxation rooms afterwards – it’s a real Zen zone.

Sometimes, though, nothing beats bracing sea air for restoring skew-whiff chakras. Head, then, to south Dublin’s Dún Laoghaire, and specifically to its historic seaside bolthole, the Royal Marine Hotel (royalmarine.ie), which is not only renowned for its glorious views of Dublin Bay but also its serene SansanaSPA. With nine luxurious treatment rooms, a mud chamber, a waterbed room to “float and relax” in, plus a huge range of treatments – (we recommend their signature, Ayurveda-inspired Shirodhara treatment, combining a head and back massage with a foot bath; €125), it won’t just be the salty air giving you that tranquil glow.

SUPINE POWER Super-size your spa indulgence with a restorative weekend break.

Monart spa resort in Co Wexford (monart.ie), left, cannot be beaten for its treatments, facilities, holistic programmes and all-round comfort, while facials and massages at Druid’s Glen Resort and Spa (druidsglenresort.com) in Co Wicklow are particularly good after a dip in the 18-metre pool overlooking the grounds. In Cork, lord it up at Castlemartyr (castlemartyrresort.ie), whose super spa and pool also overlook bucolic scenery, or stay in a real castle at Co Donegal’s Lough Eske (solishotels.com), whose Solis Spa includes a top-notch thermal suite and swimming pool access.

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Jolly Holidays

ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA McAREE

Raise a glühwien to Lauren Heskin’s festive season suggestions for all the family.

DUBLIN A Dr Seuss Christmas Experience The Grinch may have discovered that Christmas doesn’t come from a store, but for four nights it will be emanating from 12 Henrietta Street. The beautiful former tenement building will host an evening of unconventional festivities, with peculiar characters, jovial garlands, improvised performances and surprises aplenty inspired by Master Seuss from December 1-4. hgcreations.yapsody.com 32 |

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CORK Glow: A Cork Christmas Celebration Join the countdown to Christmas until December 18, when it seems the whole city embraces the festivities.

Christmas markets, live entertainment, wafting cinnamon aromas, a Ferris wheel offering a magical, Rudolph’seye view of the Rebel County – or little ones can fall through a wardrobe into the world of Narnia in Bishop Lucey Park. corkchristmascelebration.ie

BELFAST Titanic Christmas Experience On Titanic Belfast’s traditionally-dressed Christmas street you can swap winter woollies for Dickensian dress, peek in the windows of an old-fashioned toy shop or ask the elves for help in hand-writing a certain letter … The star on top is meeting the man himself, whose “cheeks are like roses, his nose like a cherry”.

Until December 23, children £15, adults £4. titanicbelfast.com

GALWAY The Perfect Christmas Dinner There’s plenty happening in Galway during the festive period but as well as the mulled wine, twinkling lights and foaming steins, JP McMahon of the Michelinstarred Aniar is holding a one-day course on the ageold art of making Christmas dinner (December 11; €195).

Learn to cook locallysourced turkey with all the trimmings and you’ll have everything wrapped up in a bow come December 25. aniarrestaurant.ie

TIPPERARY Aherlow Winter Walking Festival Once you’ve hit peak gluttony in the new year, it’s time to hit another apex – perhaps one of the Galtees, or the Slievenamuck Ridge, during this annual hiking festival? Swap the meat sweats for actual sweat with a range of hikes over two days this January 27-29.

From tough mountain trails to gently sloping hills, the topography demands that you finish off mulled wine and mince pie at the end. aherlow.com

For gorgeous getaways…

Ireland’s Blue Book is a collection of Irish country house hotels, manor houses, castles and restaurants.

Located throughout the island of Ireland these charming and stylish hideaways are ideal for midweek escapes or weekend breaks.

Ireland’s Blue Book Gift Vouchers available www.irelandsbluebook.com / T +353 1 676 9914

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Near the MUSEUM OF MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART (mamco.ch) is a little hidden gem of a café and bar, PARADISO . It’s a real local hub and the perfect place to go for weekend brunch. Their Holy Avocado might be the best avo on toast you’ll ever have. (Rue des Bain 21, +41 22 800 0022; cafeparadiso.ch)

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

GENEVA

Galwegian Claire Heskin shows us the Swiss sights.

The hammams, saunas and Turkish baths of BAINS DES PAQUIS are open through the winter months, while in the summer its jetties and beach are littered with sunbathers.

The restaurant, Pumproom, has the best fondue in the city (no easy feat in Geneva), not to mention a great view of the Jet d’Eau fountain. (Quai du Mont-Blanc 30, +41 22 732 2974; bains-des-paquis.ch)

You simply can’t go to Geneva without seeing the beautiful Old Town. Explore the winding, narrow streets filled with specialist shops and galleries. Climb the St Peter’s Cathedral tower for a view over the whole city and grab a seat outside LA CLÉMENCE for a drink and some people-watching – blankets included during the colder months. (Place du Bourgde-Four, +41 22 312 2498; laclemence.ch)

MORE ABOUT CLAIRE Originally from Galway city, Claire moved to Geneva two years ago and fell in love with this compact yet diverse city, its spectacular views, its snow sports and, of course, its people.

Now firmly settled in the international city, she shares her favourite Genevian spots.

Geneva may be quiet but the bars along Rue de l’Ecole-de-Médecine are always thronged with people.

BOTTLE BROTHERS (12 Rue Henri Blanvalet; bottlebrothers.ch) is a particular weekend favourite but don’t miss VOISINS during the week either, for excellent food and an even better atmosphere. (Rue des Voisins 8, +41 22 735 2427; voisins.ch)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to GENEVA daily.

DON’T MISS

Once the weather warms up head to TROPICAL GENEVA to paddleboard and soak up the views, or just take a seat by their lakeside terrace – their summer season parties are not to be missed.

(Quai de Cologny 5, +41 22 786 1679; trop.ch)

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GENEVA STREET FOOD FESTIVAL takes place a number of times throughout the year – food trucks line the streets and parks, offering everything from Swiss sausages to Brazilian pink tapioca and DJs keep the crowds entertained. gvastreetfoodfest.ch

The CAROUGE district is a little slice of Italy in the Swiss city. Amble its quaint streets, bohemian boutiques and soak up the Sardinian architecture.

Head to the farmers’ market in the square on a Saturday morning for an Italian espresso.

Golden Graham

TV host and national treasure Graham Norton now adds acclaimed novelist to a CV that already includes radio DJ, wine impresario and agony uncle. Is writing where this Renaissance man’s heart truly lies?

WORDS LUCY WHITE

SOPHIA SPRING

“R

obert began to feel that his desire for Rosemary and a son was causing his wife harm. The full wet kisses became chaste lips barely touching after he turned the light off. Two people lying in the dark full of love but both thinking they had failed the other. Some marriages combust, others die, and some just lie down like a wounded animal, defeated.”

Are these the words one might expect from a primetime TV host, best-known for saucy bon mots on his eponymous chat show? Without so much as a whiff of innuendo, Graham Norton has pulled off the one (and only) item on his bucket list: to write a novel and, in the process, has confounded any sneaking suspicions that talk-show hosts can’t write with heart. “I suppose what’s good about my novel, expectations were very, very low ...” he admits. “So to exceed those was to succeed.”

Holding tells the tale – quietly, insidiously – of Duneen, a rural, fictional Irish town, whose torrid histories are revealed when the remains of a human body are unearthed. Personal stories are resurrected and reimagined; its well-drawn characters and mulchy, West Cork landscape lingering long after the final page. “Cosy crime,” says Graham, of this apparently emerging new genre, “although, what I actually wanted to write was a AERLINGUS.COM |

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PRESS ASSOCIATION

INTERVIEW

bittersweet romance, thwarted love, and then I thought as a first-time novelist I’m not sure I know how to do that. Because, when I read a book – and I read a lot – I like a plot, so I thought that if I have a crime element in it, at least that gives it a structure and, even if you’ve hated this book, at least at the end you find out what happened ...”

He should leave self-deprecation buried in Duneen. Fellow novelist John Boyne described Holding in The Irish Times as “understated”, “tender”, and that “it’s possible that Norton has been wasted on TV all these years”. (In a nice twist, the book has already been snapped up by RTÉ for a small-screen adaptation.)

Tight-knit communities are as omnipotent in Irish fiction as the nefarious priest, but Norton here eschews cliché for authenticity and offers sympathy to his motley cast; the local cleric helpfully assists a crisis pregnancy, while the doleful, middle-aged, overweight garda is 38 |

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Corkman – a tanned and twinkly 53 – knows well, having been raised in sleepy Bandon. Norton’s entirely fictitious drama is, ultimately, rooted in an Ireland of the past and he remains confident that such a novel could not be written about an Ireland of the present.

The “greatest tragedy” to befall a family when he was growing up in a Church of Ireland family, he says, was a marriage between a Catholic and a Protestant. “That seems like madness now, nobody cares. It makes you hopeful for conservative countries, that if Ireland can make this journey in three and half decades ... What has helped, in a way, was the church’s massive fall from grace. The curtains being undrawn and the light being let in. It’s awful what happened but I think the young people now are reaping the benefit.

“I always think the marriage equality thing wasn’t really because the Irish loved gay people,” he adds.

“It could’ve been a vote for anything really, it was really a vote against the church. It’s a terrible way to make progress but that’s how it happened.”

Norton has lived in London since the 1990s, when he slowly but surely took the chat show scene by storm, starting with So Graham Norton (1998-2002) on Channel 4 before moving to BBC Two for The Graham Norton Show in 2007 and then BBC One in 2009. In 2012 he sold his company So Television to ITV Studios for a reported £17 million, which still produces his series on the Beeb; has a Saturday morning show on BBC Radio 2; writes an agony uncle column for The Telegraph, and is a winemaker for New Zealand’s Invivo Wines.

He calls London “home” but spends summers at his beach house near Bandon – and will likely take dual citizenship, if only to make

“I loved this process; I loved being alone in that world with those characters.”

offered glimmers of optimism after an adulthood spent watching other people’s lives from the sidelines. “I’m very much of the ‘get over it’ school,” says Norton of his characters finding themselves in a rut, “but equally I know maybe people aren’t, and you think it’s a trauma that makes you stick in that bit of your life, but it can’t be, it’s something in your character, a sort of booby-trap.

There’s this big bear pit covered in leaves that you step on to when you’re 17 or 18 and then that’s it, you’re stuck there and some people manage to climb out. That climb is an act of choice.”

While the book’s human remains are discovered in the present day, the narrative shifts back and forth to Ireland of the 1960s and 1970s, a period that the

The Irish are coming! Norton’s guests on his eponymous BBC One show include Castleknock’s Colin Farrell and Boyle’s Chris O’Dowd alongside Brits Rachel Weisz, Dawn French and Rod Stewart.

Home is where the heart is and Sherry FitzGerald can help you follow yours

With offices, homes & buyers throughout Ireland we can help you buy or sell your perfect home Our Nationwide Network: Arklow Ashbourne Athlone Athy Bagnalstown Ballina Bandon Bray Carlow Carrick on Suir Carrigaline Cashel Castlepollard Cavan Charleville Clane Clifden Clonakilty Clonmel

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Contact us today on 1800 20 9000 to speak with one of our local experts www.sherryfitz.ie

INTERVIEW

navigating passport control queues easier in Brexit.

“The people I feel sorriest for are the youngsters,” he says, about voting Remain. “The wonderful thing about being young is that you have choices and options – life is just a big long corridor and all the doors are open. But in one fell swoop, Brexit slammed so many of those doors – to studying abroad, working abroad, travelling. It’s just so depressing that it was mostly people over 60 that have made the world a much, much smaller place for those children.”

While the future looks rocky, what is certain is Norton’s

newfound confidence as a writer, a creative process that he hated while crafting his two memoirs, So Me (2004) and The Life and Loves of a He-Devil (2014). In fact, it is only because of a three-book deal that he published Holding. “Writing the memoirs was like homework, a chore,” he admits, “but I loved this process; I loved being alone in that world with those characters.

The people that put all the work in were the people that I gave the drafts to, who did the cover, the marketing. Those are the people who really put man hours in, that hope it’s a success. Yes, if it was a disaster it would be vaguely

humiliating for me but I’d still have a career.”

And what a career. From topearning broadcaster to bestselling novelist, Norton now has more than enough strings to his considerable bow to cherry-pick which of those doors on life’s long corridor to open. Crossing the threshold into writing more fiction now seems inevitable – his bucket list (and, no doubt, publisher) begging for more.

Holding (Hodder & Stoughton, €20) is out now. Graham Norton’s new Shiraz and award-winning Sauvignon Blanc are €14.99 at SuperValu and Centra.

GRAHAM NORTON ON …

POP CULTURE “I was listening to Gregory Porter all summer. His voice is just fabulous – if I’m in any sort of mood at all, I’ll listen to that. The Crown, on Netflix, is also good – each season is a decade of Queen Elizabeth’s life, and it’s by Peter Morgan, who did the film The Queen.”

GROWING UP “I think that if I was watching So Graham Norton from the Channel 4 days, I wouldn’t like it. But it’s not for me, we were making that show for people in their teens and twenties – I was already in my thirties. TV has become more conservative but then my show has become more mainstream as I’ve got older. I still think that there is wild TV out there but it’s less comedy and more reality based so you can’t be as rude about people – people can be allowed to destroy their own lives instead!”

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SOPHIA SPRING

POPULARITY “The good thing about The Graham Norton Show is that in all its various guises, we’re on our 19th year, but it’s only in the last five years that we’ve been at the top. So to spend years playing second fiddle to other shows and slowly inching our way up … that’s great. It would be very hard to accept having been ‘The Show’ and see guests appearing elsewhere. And, you know what, that can happen in a season. Someone can just start up another show somewhere and it can take off and that’s kind of the beginning of the end for us – and hopefully that doesn’t happen tomorrow. But it could.”

STRAWBERRY HILL HOUSE, VICO ROAD, DALKEY, COUNTY DUBLIN A stunning Italianate seafront villa enjoying an enviable position overlooking Killiney Bay, nestled on the southerly slopes of Killiney Hill.

This property has unobstructed views south across the bay from Dalkey Island to Bray Head encompassing the spectacular Wicklow Mountains. As you walk through the hall door of Strawberry Hill you know you are about to experience something truly exceptional and the view that enfolds in front is without parallel.

In brief the accommodation comprises a drawing room with west facing terrace, dining room, breakfast room with balcony facing the bay, a study, media room, games room, gallery, den and sunroom.

There are 5 bedrooms, 3 of which are en-suite, 2 of which are complemented with walk in dressing rooms.

Renovated by its architect owner within the last 10 years, Strawberry Hill House comes to the market in turn-key condition ready for immediate occupancy to be enjoyed. Extending over 3 levels, the property includes more than 7,560 sq ft of tastefully appointed versatile accommodation.

A large south facing sun terrace completes the ensemble and almost every room faces south to the sea.The 0.75 acres of grounds are equally impressive with tiered lawns, a tennis court, orchards, fruit gardens and a superb gym. Killiney and Dalkey Hills with their wonderful walks and wildlife will add a whole new dimension to your lifestyle.

PSRA No. 002183. BER Exempt.

Rosie Mulvany Director, Sherry FitzGerald +353 (0)1 275 1000 +353 (0)86 854 2284 rosie.mulvany@sherryfitz.ie

Michael Grehan Managing Director, Sherry FitzGerald +353 (0)1 237 6300 +353 (0)86 257 8771 michael.grehan@sherryfitz.ie

sherryfitz.ie

The Record Breaker

WHO Jane Ní Dhulchaointigh WHAT Expansion plans for her mouldable glue product Sugru (sugru.com) RAISED £3,388,150 on Crowdcube Jane Ní Dhulchaointigh is arguably the Irish poster girl of crowdfunding. She is founder and CEO of Sugru, which raised a whopping £1 million within four days and ended up surpassing all previous records on its platform with 2,375 investors spanning 68 countries. This venture proved an attractive proposition to investors with the mouldable glue having already been dubbed the “21st century duct tape” by Forbes and lauded worldwide.

“We’ve managed to build an incredibly engaged and enthusiastic community of Sugru users around the world,” she says. “It is built on community, which is all about people power, so equity crowdfunding was a great fit. I love the thought of somebody who has supported us from day one being able to own a small piece of the company for as little as £10 and share in our success. It feels right.

It’s feels very Sugru,” she adds.

Garnering a single £1 million investment, the campaign exceeded their target to the tune of 355 per cent. The type of investor mirrored their community with “parents, students, crafters, tech experts” all wanting a share in the spoils of their success. The whole experience felt “very momentous and incredibly humbling,” she recollects.

For those wishing to follow in her crowdfunding footsteps, Ní Dhulchaointigh attests that it’s of utmost importance to ensure you’ve the capacity to do the campaign justice. “Try and get the wider team involved but plan, plan, plan!”

INSPIRING CAMPAIGN “We got a lot of helpful advice from the team at Just Park (justpark.com).”

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WORKING THE

crowds

Do it yourself. This is the mantra for many entrepreneurs swapping traditional patronisation for crowdfunding projects.

WORDS MICHAEL McDERMOTT PHOTOGRAPHS NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY

T

he DIY phenomenon of crowdfunding is well established as a path to realising projects. But as well as gaining financial backing, it’s also a means of rallying grassroots support and courting publicity. The American singer/ songwriter Amanda Palmer – Patreon advocate and author of the The Art of Asking – epitomised its essence by saying when we ask for help with gratitude, “we have the power to help each other”.

With an estimated global yield of more than €30 billion, crowdfunding encompasses minor to major. Hip-hop pioneers De La Soul funded their new album to the tune of $600,874 on the Kickstarter platform, while Swedish sex toy company Lelo (lelo.com) reached a whopping 3,231 per cent of its target on Indiegogo to create a new condom made of sturdy hexagonal-shaped cells.

Closer to home, Ireland’s Fundit (fundit.ie) platform has seen almost €4 million raised for 1,300 projects from more than 66 countries in the past five years. I personally chose this route for the Doggie Do (thedoggiedo.

com), a festival that I co-founded, as a means of gauging support and feedback for what was ostensibly a novel idea. Now more than 1,400 people attend our annual “mardi gras for mutt and man”.

A more recent beneficiary through Kickstarter is Paul Carroll, the photographer behind the freshly published Gaelic Fields (gaelicfields.com), which took him on a sevenyear journey through the 32 counties. “It afforded me creative control over all aspects of the book,” he says, “from the amount of photos to put in, the type of paper, the cover, the design and the people to work with.

Crowdfunding is a process of hardworking freedom to see your project through.”

Linked Finance (linkedfinance.com) offers loans from backers and lenders with fixed rate returns for businesses – Sligo’s The White Hag (thewhitehag.com) is one of a number of microbreweries who have chosen this path.

Crowdfunding has proven itself to be the perfect tightrope act, balanced between getting by with a little help from one’s friends while also relying upon the kindness of strangers.

Here are some of Ireland’s success stories ...

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PEOPLE | THE CROWDFUNDERS

The Adventurer WHO Derek O’Sullivan WHAT The development of the Crua Hybrid tent (cruaoutdoors.com) RAISED $303,003 on Kickstarter Tralee-based Derek O’Sullivan readily admits to being a crowdfunding junkie. He’s just coming off the back of his second successful one and contemplating more. The innovative Crua Hybrid boasts being a tent and a hammock with a customised sleeping bag and built-in mattress. To get started, O’Sullivan simply focused on awareness and advance sales of his product at a discount.

“Crowdfunding gave us the opportunity to introduce a brand new product range to the world and allowed us to validate the market with minimal risk. For consumer product developers, this is not easy and you don’t really know if the market likes something or not until it’s often too

late. Also, our campaigns generated a lot of interest and there was a PR spinoff. Something that would cost a lot of money if you were to pay for it.”

In terms of the key components to making a campaign fly, O’Sullivan echoes the sentiments of many others. “Success or failure is decided before launch so you have to start engaging your community pre-launch, even during the design phase – also valuable for feedback. Build your database. And video is absolutely key.” He estimates their last video has been viewed more than 15 million times – which should set them in good stead for the next campaign in 2017.

INSPIRING CAMPAIGN “Peak Design (peakdesign.com). I've spoken with Peter Dering, who has been a huge help. They just completed their sixth Kickstarter campaign and raised over $6.5 million.”

The Tortilla King WHO Philip Martin WHAT Building a tortilla manufacturing plant for his company Blanco Niño (blanco-nino.com) RAISED £121,550 on Crowdcube Having already cut his teeth in the Mexican food market in 2012 with Little Ass Burrito (littleass.ie), Philip Martin expanded his horizons with Blanco Niño (blanco-nino.com). His quest is to become a conquistador in the tortilla market and, to create “Europe’s first authentic corn tortilleria”, based in Co Tipperary, Martin chose the crowdfunding path with equity rewards.

“It wasn’t really an option to do anything else. It simply needed to be an equity offering given the numbers we needed to raise,” says Martin.

One of the key appeals of the Blanco Niño pitch was their use of

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non-genetically modified white corn.

Reflecting on his success, he believes one should never underestimate the amount of time that goes into building and preparing for a campaign and “maintaining and growing the many relationships that emerge from a successful one”.

Martin feels it’s a mistake to consider crowdfunding an easier or faster option to conventional investors. “It’s a lot more work than most think and it isn’t for everyone.”

However, in reaching 202 per cent of their initial target it proved to be the perfect route for him.

INSPIRING CAMPAIGN “Peak Design makes top-class camera gear, which is obviously quite far from us, but they’ve really beautifully puttogether campaigns and products to back it up.”

COME HOME

IN 2017

To a career in property with the Sherry FitzGerald Group

www.cushwake.ie/careers www.sherryfitz.ie/careers

PEOPLE | THE CROWDFUNDERS

The Performers WHO Niall Tuohy and Laura Ivers WHAT Dublin Circus Project (dublincircusproject.com) RAISED €5,157 on Kickstarter “As a volunteer-led organisation in an obscure arts sector, it is not always easy to see the value of the work we do, to see the wood from the trees,” according to Laura Ivers, chairperson of the Dublin Circus Project. Therefore, in many ways crowdfunding seemed an obvious route to achieving their goal of opening a Circus Centre in Cabra. They offered the luxury of choice with a comprehensive rewards programme that included personalised thank-you videos, membership to their training space, one-onone circus skills tuition and even a bespoke fire performance for events.

“The confidence booster from the success of the campaign was absolutely incredible for 46 |

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our passionate volunteer team,” she says. “To have such clear public recognition and support for the work we are doing was invaluable.”

“People power is incredible when you have a supportive community behind you,” adds vicechair Niall Tuohy. “Crowdfunding needs active campaigning. As we had no budget to promote our campaign, we focused our efforts on two avenues – social media and harnessing the connections of our community and supporters.”

The Dublin Circus Project has now moved to a new, larger venue with additional aerial acrobatics training facilities and have completed the renovation and insulation of the space to enable year-round classes.

INSPIRING CAMPAIGN “Full Cirqle (fullcirqle. org.uk) had a similar project to create a circus training facility in Edinburgh, which impressed us in its execution.”

The Filmmaker

WHO Kevin de la Isla O’Neill WHAT Debut feature film The Hit Producer (thehitproducer.com) RAISED €20,121 on Fundit The movie business is one which can be rarely financed on a shoestring budget but director Kevin de la Isla O’Neill sought to do so for his crime thriller The Hit Producer (currently screening on Aer Lingus flights; see page 132).

“I had worked in several film productions before and knew where money would be needed and what could be done realistically,” he says.

“Crowdfunding created a sort of a buzz about the ‘little film that could’ and the underdogs in the industry making an extremely ambitious feature film with all guns blazing (literally).

“It was a full-time commitment for all three of us for the entire duration of the campaign – emailing, messaging on social media, phoning, etc – and I don’t think we would have had the same success without us all working on it 24/7.

It doesn’t matter how big or small the amount is, the work is no more or less important.” And thanks to the generosity of nearly 200 backers, O’Neill accomplished his dream.

He’s currently in the process of developing his next feature film – which could well be a second crowdfunding enterprise if film board support proves elusive.

INSPIRING CAMPAIGN “There was one for a film called Stalker by Mark O’Connor, which was for an ambitious amount [€15k, also on Fundit], so I contacted them after their campaign finished successfully and as ours began.”

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PEOPLE | THE CROWDFUNDERS

The Singer/ Songwriter WHO Aoife Scott WHAT The release of her debut album Carry the Day RAISED €8,412 on Fundit Musicians are one creative breed who have mined the art of crowdfunding in support of their craft. Harnessing more than goodwill has been critical in the process of offsetting myriad costs such as recording, engineering, mixing, mastering, duplication and artwork.

Finding an early adoptive audience this way is an added bonus.

Dublin folk singer Aoife Scott (aoifescott.com) is one such artist to use the platform to this effect. “It’s a fundamental way to connect with an audience immediately,” says Scott.

“I know for me, releasing my first album, it opened up a lot of doors for me, and reached people I couldn’t have reached without the campaign. In a way, they are involved right from the start and this changes the relationship between musician and listener. It is a great help for musicians starting out.”

She recalls many sleepless nights and refreshed clicks on the website.

“It’s a scary process. The fear of rejection is always looming but you learn how to detach from that. Having faith in your talent and ability is key.”

INSPIRING CAMPAIGN “Julie Feeney’s campaign [also on Fundit, raising €23k to produce the album Clocks] was so incredibly imaginative and personal to her. I thought it was amazing! I felt like she was even so expressive in her campaign, that it made me think of my own personal interests and what I could share with supporters as rewards.”

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DESTINATION | DINGLE

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Dingle’s Call

The Co Kerry town of Dingle has a way of hooking you in. Even in winter, after all the summer visitors are gone, there’s creativity aplenty.

WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS PIOTR DYBOWSKI

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STEVE McCARTHY

DESTINATION | DINGLE

S

ome call Dingle the Shangri-La of the Wild Atlantic Way and there is possibly no better description: there is one road in and there is one road out, and when you get there you don’t ever want to leave.

Dingle is, by and large, cut off from the outside world, but even in winter – after the summer season day-trippers have had a look-see, bought a souvenir and then got back on the bus – the town is relatively busy.

The early part of December is a particularly eventful period, as the annual Other Voices shindig takes place (December 2-4; othervoices.ie). Now in its 15th year, the event has not only become an essential addition to Ireland’s cultural calendar but has also developed into a clarion call for the charms of Dingle itself.

“Dingle has very rich cultural and natural resources,” says Other Voices’ originator and Dingle resident, Philip King. “The language is extant and rich, the music is powerful, the singing tradition is strong, the 52 |

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literary tradition is important, and the natural beauty is both alluring and challenging. All of those things together make it a magnetic place – Dingle has always had a beckoning call. Also, its remoteness is very attractive – you are, literally, at the end of the road here.

The next stop is America.”

Dingle’s captivating environment has been the reason why many people have visited and not returned to whence they came. The explanation for this could be as easy as submitting to the call of the wild; or it might be that, while during the summer Dingle succumbs to the footfall of tourists, from October to May it largely breathes and lives at its own speed. Local businesses and people have the time to mull over the previous several months with their family, friends and colleagues. Haste and momentum are replaced with reflection and composure.

Such contemplation lends itself to the creative spirit, and so arts and crafts are to be discovered throughout

Dundrum Town Centre is Ireland’s largest retail and leisure destination.

Be part of it.

For leasing enquiries please contact: Claire-Ann Minogue claire-ann.minogue@hammerson.ie + 353 87 661 7505 Larry Brennan larry.brennan@savills.ie +353 87 261 7115 Bernadine Hogan bernadine.hogan@cbre.com +353 87 385 5200 hammerson.com

DESTINATION | DINGLE

SLEEP AT …

COSY There is such a genuine sense of traditional care and contemporary comfort at the Lantern Townhouse that if you could bottle it and sell it, you’d never have to work again. Run

by Anne-Marie Keane, the compact B&B (eight en-suite rooms) is rarely at a loss for customers, which translates as book a room ASAP! Rooms from €70. (Main Street, 066 915 1088; lanterntownhouse.com) DISTINCT It doesn’t get any more central than Dingle Benners Hotel.

Located right in the middle of the town – and directly opposite the entrance to the splendid St James’ Church – the mix of rural charm and modern luxury is enough to attract the most experienced traveller. Rooms from €129. (Main Street, 066 915 1638; dinglebenners.com) BAY VIEW A few minutes’ walk from the centre you will find Dingle Marina Lodge B&B, a recent, purpose-built guesthouse offering picturesque open views of the harbour and bay.

With very comfortable rooms in a quieter part of the town, this is ideal for those that prefer to be a wee bit distanced from the “craic”. Rooms from €80. (Waterside, 066 915 0800; dinglemarinalodge.com)

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the region. Not all are located where you might expect to find them, however. For instance, in the blink-and-missit village of Ballyferriter (situated several kilometres from Dingle), you’ll find the workplace of potter Sinéad Lough (087 215 5703; sineadloughceramics.com) in a tiny former shop. Sinéad’s petite and practical pottery is finding an increasing audience, yet her work (and remote work base) is one of many examples of how creativity can run parallel with modest commercial interests. While Sinéad might fairly be described as a “starter-upper”, Louis Mulcahy Pottery (Clogher Strand, Ballyferriter, 066 915 6229; louismulcahy.com) is an established business that continues apace. The day we arrived at the showroom – located on the absorbing Slea Head Drive, with stupendous views of the Dingle peninsula – the garden seats and the upstairs café were spilling over with visitors.

If the work of Louis Mulcahy (the “godfather of Irish craft”, according to the Design & Crafts Council of Ireland) is viewed admiringly by native and visitor alike, back in Dingle – and even along the winding roads towards it – there are so many other singular craft shops that it would take you a week to investigate them fully. From weaving (Lisbeth Mulcahy’s Weaver’s Shop, Green Street, 066 915 1688; lisbethmulcahy.com) to visual art (Carol Cronin Gallery, Upper Green Street, 086 103 1074; carolcronin.com); from organic products (Dingle Candle, Main Street, 086 224 5395;

Left, the cosy din of O’Flaherty’s pub and below, clouds sweep across Dingle harbour. Opposite, clockwise from top left, chef Martin Bealin of Global Village Restaurant; local whiskey casks in Danno’s Bar & Restaurant; Jim McCarthy horsing around in The Chart House; it’s not hard to find trad music in Dingle; artist Carol Cronin, ghostly creations at Louis Mulcahy Pottery; The Little Cheese Shop’s Maja Beaujouan; Bean in Dingle co-owner Justin Burges, and happy campers on Inch Beach.

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DESTINATION | DINGLE Raw hide – Conor Holden in his Holden Leathergoods workshop.

DON’T MISS …

SHOPPING There is a wonderfully appointed Holden Leathergoods shop in Dingle town, but if you want to blend the svelte artisan beauty of the products with the atmosphere of where they were made, then make your long and winding way to the (signposted) Holden workshop, pictured, five kilometres from the town centre. (Old Schoolhouse, Burnham East, 066 915 1796; holdenleathergoods.com)

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TOUR The scale of The Dingle Whiskey Distillery is, by comparison to others in the same business, modest, yet its rejuvenation of independent distilling is inspiring. To hear its story (brilliantly told by informed guides) and to see/sniff its produce being created, we strongly recommend booking a tour.

(Dingle town, 086 777 5551; tours@dingledistillery.ie / dingledistillery.ie)

FOODIE Overseen by local Sarah Dolan, the compact space of Crinkle belies its wide range of produce. Grab an aromatic The Golden Bean coffee, and inspect the shelves for snack goodies like Lemon Polenta Fine Biscuits by Lismore Food Company and healthy treats, such as Simply Seaweed by Mungo Murphy’s Seaweed Co. (Lower Green Street, 085 766 9251)

Strategy | Management | Consultancy

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Linesight is Ireland’s largest cost management and project management construction consultancy.

With 17 offices globally that have delivered projects in over 40 countries, the results of our collaborative successes are everywhere.

If you’ve a construction project in mind, make Linesight your first port of call.

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DESTINATION | DINGLE

Clockwise from left, the celebrated Dick Mack’s; Idás chef Kevin Murphy; Kevin’s tantalising Idás brill; Dingle street art, and Justyna Domaradzka’s proud new pot at Louis Mulcahy Pottery.

EAT AT …

dinglecandle.com) to millinery (Kathleen McAuliffe, Green Street, 066 915 0644; kathleenmcauliffe.com), the range is beautiful, broad and extensive.

Dingle, of course, isn’t just about the charismatic combination of creativity and charm – it’s also about the “craic”. In some Irish towns, the search for the “craic” can sometimes be elusive but Dingle has it down. For starters, it is a renowned foodie destination, and across the length and breadth of the town there are a wide array of excellent restaurants. We have our favourites (see ‘Eat At’, right) but it would be remiss not to also mention Ashes Bar and Restaurant (Main Street, 066 915 0989; ashesbar.ie), Doyle’s Seafood Restaurant (John Street, 066 915 2674; doylesofdingle.com), the seafood-only Out of the Blue (Waterside, 066 915 0811; outoftheblue. ie), which reopens in March 2017 and, for coffee, Bean in Dingle (Green Street, 087 299 2831; beanindingle.com).

Pubs here are as plentiful as the restaurants, but the difference is that while the former purposefully stride towards the future with tradition in tow, the latter use tradition as a natural hook to bring you in, sit you down, reconnect you and pass time in the best way known to mankind. In short, the pubs in Dingle are authentically one-of-a-kind and if you don’t find something to love about the likes of Foxy John’s, Curran’s, Kennedy’s (all on Main Street), Dick Mack’s (Green Street) – which was recently named Irish Whiskey Bar of the Year, for the third time in a row – John Benny Moriarty (Strand Street), and O’Flaherty’s (Bridge Street), then we politely suggest you get your pulse checked.

What else to say of this Shangri-La of the Wild Atlantic Way? As we have said, there is one road in and one road out, so how about may the road rise with you?

Or may the wind be always at your back? Or what about our favourite, simplistic though it may be: safe travels.

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ARTISTIC Named after chef/ proprietor Kevin Murphy’s greatgrandfather, Idás is testament to the perfect blend of flavours, creative presentation and foraging skills, as well as intuitively uniting classic and current cooking techniques. As if these ingredients weren’t enough, Idás’ walls are covered with some of the best contemporary art we’ve yet seen in a restaurant. (John Street, 066 915 0885; idasdingle.com) CREATIVE An integral part of Dingle’s sophisticated approach to cuisine, Global Village Restaurant is a warm, inviting space that teems with serene service, award-winning food, fastidiously sourced produce (seafood from inshore local fishermen, meat from the peninsula, vegetables from the restaurant’s garden on Mount Eagle) and Michelin-recommended cooking from chef/proprietor Martin Bealin. (Main Street, 066 915 2325; globalvillagedingle.com) CHARMING Delivering a memorable dining experience is the core philosophy of The Chart House, and that it does so with ease is no surprise.

The multi-award winning restaurant (it has retained a Michelin Bib Gourmand since the late 1990s), is overseen by the implacable Jim McCarthy, who will do all he can to make your foodie wishes come true. (The Mall, 066 915 2255; thecharthousedingle.com)

SMART TIP Visit AerLingus.com for the best deals on holidays, travel insurance, car hire and more.

MAN HAT TAN Canal life, Blauwburgwal, in Centrum.

Few cities do Christmas better than New York. From snowcovered streets and parks to cosy bars, it oozes festive spirit.

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS KYLE TUNNEY

DESTINATION | NEW YORK

EAT,

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drink and be merry, for tomorrow we die ... That old chestnut rings no more true than at Christmas when so many of us gorge ourselves silly. And where better to do so than among the bright lights of the Big Apple?

Yes, baby, it’s cold outside, but New Yorkers know better than to let face-aching sub-zero temperatures and 18-centimetre snowfall cramp their style.

If you’re a first-time visitor, get the lay of the land, literally, at the Rockefeller Center’s observation deck, Top of the Rock (topoftherocknyc.com) – even on Christmas Day, when it’s open until midnight. To the north, coo at a potentially whiteblanketed Central Park (centralpark.com) and to the south, the magnificent Empire State Building (esbnyc.com).

Once you’ve had your fill of iconic panoramas, grub’s up at 21 Club (21club. com), a former speakeasy just a fiveminute walk from Rockefeller Plaza.

Jacket required, it’s a super, starry spot for celebrations – ask for table 30, aka “Bogey’s Corner”, where Humphrey Bogart proposed to Lauren Bacall. This restaurant has appeared in countless films, including All About Eve and Wall Street, and is quirky from the outside in: its entrance is signposted by 33 miniature, vintage statues of jockeys, and the ceiling interior is festooned with toys, many of which were donated by A-listers, among them Howard Hughes, JFK and Bill Clinton (Chelsea Clinton also got proposed to here). Food is excellent – my lobster ravioli and his filet mignon were triumphs – the cocktails terrific and the staff charming old-timers with a winning repartee.

Once digestifs have digested, ice-skate it all off at the famous Rockefeller rink (therinkatrockcenter.com) or, for a slightly longer stroll, head to Central Park’s Wollman (south end) or Lasker rinks (north end).

The 340-hectare public park is a perpetual marvel, but fans of winter wonderlands will find no better place for skating or making snow angels.

Another park at which to blow away the cobwebs is The High Line (thehighline.org). Designed to be enjoyed all-year-round, its seasonal pops of colour – sprays of fiery witch hazel and Red Sprite winterberries – are a sight for sore, snow-blinded eyes. Blizzard? Take cover in the Whitney Museum of Modern Art (whitney.org), which is at the Meatpacking District section of the High Line, and a must for anyone interested in art from the 20th century onwards.

Properly warm up the cockles afterwards at Artichoke (artichokepizza.com), at the Chelsea Market exit, which is widely regarded as one of the city’s best pizza joints. If you like them big and creamy, you’re in for a treat. Just don’t make the mistake of ordering a three-slice sampler like this writer ... one mighty wedge is more than ample.

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If the Whitney has you hankering for more culture, the Metropolitan Museum of Art (metmuseum.org) on Fifth Avenue has a permanent collection that spans 5,000 years of global art, from religious artefacts to textiles to contemporary film and photography. Visit on a Friday or Saturday evening when it’s open until 9pm, rounding off with cocktails and mezze in the Balcony Bar, where live music seems to consume the Great Hall.

A more risqué soiree comes in the shapely form of the burlesque restaurant, Duane Park (duaneparknyc.com) in the Bowery. “What are pasties ...?” inquired my boyfriend when a cute brunette weaved between the tables selling vaudeville accoutrements. And if he didn’t know what pasties were then, he definitely knew by the end of the show. The à la carte menu is surprisingly good but it’s a pity that so many fellow diners (couples, mostly) spent much of the performance watching it through their smartphones – kudos, then, to the dancer who snatched one and hid it somewhere thoroughly indecent.

Post-burlesque nightcaps don’t get much better than at a genuine prohibition-era bar. Just a 15-minute walk from Duane Park, The Back Room (backroomnyc.com) is indicated by a rudimentary sign that reads “Lower East Side Toy Co.” and was a former haunt of Jewish gangsters, such as Bugsy Siegel, in the Roaring Twenties.

Happily, it’s still serving liquor out of crockery and brown paper bags against a backdrop of plush red chairs, repro paintings and chandeliers. The vibe is relaxed, the music bygone and the social aspect fun – don’t be surprised to be asked up to dance.

Less of a vintage is the nearby Schiller’s Liquor Bar (schillersny.com) – one of Keith McNally’s enterprises (see The Beekman in ‘3 Winter Warmers’, page 68) that opened in 2003 and is still a sweet spot for a late drink.

Its understated retro look appeared long before it became hipster: white wall tiles, industrial lighting, antique mirrors and reclaimed trough sinks. In contrast are the warm tones of Slowly Shirley (slowlyshirley.com), a subterranean West Village “nouveau” speakeasy. Art Deco light sconces, walnut-effect walls and a lack of windows give the effect of sitting in the belly of a rather elegant ship. My first drink from the overwhelming long cocktail menu was a dirty martini, my second a Five Finger Death Punch and the third, who knows, but boy was it unmemorably memorable.

If you’re reading this en route to NYC in January 2017, don’t even think about updating the earlier adage to “eat, drink and be merry, for tomorrow we diet”. To deprive oneself of New York’s food and drink scene – at any time of year – is to deprive oneself of joy. So good tidings to all who raise a Manhattan in Manhattan this season. Sláinte!

Opposite, a well dressed cocktail at The Roxy hotel in Tribeca. Top, Roxy hotel doorman Donald Reid. Above, the city that never sleeps has no choice but to slow down in a snow storm. Left, the legendary Radio City has played host to The Rockettes, a precision dance company, since 1932 and whose annual Christmas Spectacular is a a highkicking highlight of the festive calendar. radiocity.com

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DESTINATION | NEW YORK

SLEEP AT …

MIDTOWN The result of a 20-month, $180 million refurbishment, the swish Barclay InterContinental reopened in April 2016 and is a fine addition to Midtown. Rooms are spacious and stylish, staff are excellent and you may never find a buffet breakfast as good as here. Rooms from $137. (111 East 48th Street, +1 212 755 5900; intercontinentalnybarclay. com) NOMAD Riding on

the coat-tails of its predecessors in Hollywood and South Beach, The Redbury made its east coast debut in August 2016.

Guest rooms are mega comfortable, bright and quirky – red feature walls and Bluetooth gramophone speakers – and its attractive bar and restaurant is merry.

Rooms from $169. (29 East 29th Street, +1 212 689 1900; theredbury.com/newyork)

TRIBECA Could The Roxy be any cooler? Its zeitgeisty combo of hip interiors – Art Deco as seen through a 1970s lens – jazz club, film screenings (the exterior resembles a cinema), café and cocktail bar make it a hive for filmmakers, photographers, artists and musicians. All that, and it’s entirely snoot-free.

Rooms from $238. (2 Sixth Avenue, +1 212 519 6600; roxyhotelnyc.com) DOWNTOWN Open since September 2016, the stylish Four Seasons Downtown is a wonderful paradox; at once grand and understated, homely and über luxe, venerable and high-tech (order in-room dining on a tablet). The spa provides extra respite (world’s comfiest treatment beds?), as does the 23-metre lap pool. Rooms from $499. (27 Barclay Street, +1 646 880 1999; fourseasons.com)

Top, Melanie Peradin, bartender at The Roxy. Above, a stylish welcome at the brand new Four Seasons Downtown.

Left, ready to rock at The Roxy.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NEW YORK and NEWARK daily, and from Shannon six times per week.

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KNITWEAR

s i n c e 1823

BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS shop online @ blarney.com

BLARNEY | BUNRATTY | TIPPERARY

Left and bottom, Mexican hotspot Añejo Tribeca, where excellent mezcal and tequila cocktails wash down finger-lickin’ tacos. Above, posh burgers at The Roxy, and right, Rich Bubbico manning the bar at Keith McNally’s Schiller’s.

EAT AT …

BRUNCH Breakfast like a king at Penelope, a cute, down-home spot that does a terrific line of American classics with a bit of flair: their pumpkin waffles with appled butter, dried cranberries, toasted cinnamon-cardamom pecans and warm baked apples will add cheer to the nippiest of mornings.

Lovely limitless house blend coffee too. (159 Lexington Avenue, +1 212 481 3800; penelopenyc.com) SHARING Thai food outside Thailand can often be a “meh” affair – but not at Nolita’s Uncle Boons, which deservedly won a Michelin star in September 2015. Authentic, cacophonous and completely unpretentious, there are many reasons why customers queue out the door, two of which are thus: 66 |

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mee krob, a sweetbread and crispy noodle salad with dried shrimp, peanuts, egg and tamarind sauce, and plaa yang, a whole charcoal-roasted dorade with charred leeks and dipping sauces. (7 Spring Street, +1 646 370 6650; uncleboons.com)

CONVIVIAL Tired of mediocre tacos falling messily apart down your front? Añejo Tribeca has it licked, serving them on ergonomic steel racks.

Get your mouth around fresh and tasty, hot and cold plates, washed down with fire-breathingly good jalapeño margaritas. Lovely dining room too. And if it’s good enough for Billie Joe Armstrong of Green Day, who was there during our visit ... (301 Church Street, +1 212 920 6270; anejotribeca.com)

1

WINTER WARMERS

High Tea at the Palm Court New York is chockablock with legendary hotels and they don’t come much glitzier than the Plaza. Sinatra, Capote, Dietrich, Monroe and several American presidents have all crossed its threshold during its 110year reign, so where better to raise a festive toast than in its ornamental Palm Court? Where once high society took afternoon tea is now dominated by starry-eyed tourists, like me, tucking into warm scones, posh sambos and desserts. Superb. (768 Fifth Avenue, +1 212 759 3000; theplazany.com)

High class high tea at the Plaza hotel’s Palm Court, above, and above right. Below, snap happy at Top of the Rock.

SMART TIPS COOL YULE Plan where’s good to tinkle your bell in the Big Apple this festive season at nycgo.com SIX APPEAL The CityPASS provides free – and often priority – entr y to six of the city’s best-loved attractions.

Get the skinny at citypass.com/new-york GROOM ROOMS Wait until your first day in New York for any beautification (waxing, manis, pedis, etc) – this writer had her eyebrows threaded for just $8 at Thread Salon on Downtown’s Nassau Street. threadsalon.com

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2

Broadway Week The average ticket price for a Broadway show is $100 so if you’re visiting between January 17 and February 5, don’t miss this two-forone promo. Tickets go on sale January 5, 2017 – catch Cate Blanchett’s Broadway debut in The Present, an adaptation of Chekhov’s Platonov, directed by our very own John “Brooklyn” Crowley (previews from December 17; runs until March 19). nycgo.com/ broadway-week

3

The Beekman Few hotel openings have been more eagerly anticipated than this 19th-century fin-de-siècle masterpiece.

Awesome when it first opened as the Temple Court Building in the 1890s and still awesome when it reopened in August 2016, its nine-storey atrium and bar must be seen to be believed. Its restaurant offerings couldn’t be any more hotly tipped, either: Keith McNally’s Augustine and Tom Colicchio’s Fowler & Wells. (123 Nassau Street, +1 212 233 2300; thompsonhotels.com)

Continuing to build a better Ireland Building a brighter future for 60 years

www.bamireland.ie Contact: Mike Jones 087 6297738

You say, we say ...

10

BEST NATIONAL

PARKS

for walking off the holiday season Catherine Murphy’s edit of your preferred parklands.

ll that the sun shines on is beautiful, so long as it is wild,” wrote John Muir.

The words of America’s most famous wilderness advocate resonate strongly during the 100th anniversary of the US National Parks Service. Just as America’s 412 national parks – beautifully immortalised in Greg MacGillivray’s IMAX movie National Parks Adventure – tell the story of that land’s history and culture, so too do the national parks of Europe. None more so than

“A

Ireland’s: Connemara, Killarney, Glenveagh, the Burren, Ballycroy and Wicklow offer up some of this country’s most magical tales and landscapes. Heavenly for hikers, climbers, star-gazers and nature lovers, national parks don’t just teach us about wilderness and geology. They tell tales of struggle, of people passing through for trade or striving to live in the midst of rugged beauty. Incredibly, some are situated close to our favourite city destinations – vast wildernesses on our doorsteps waiting to be explored.

Here are some of your favourites.

1 Connemara National Park, Co Galway Close to Letterfrack, Clifden and Leenane, much of the land here once formed part of the Kylemore Abbey estate. Today, the park is a magnet for hill walkers, keen to get into the beguiling Twelve Bens and Maamturk mountain ranges to scale Benbaun, Bencullagh and Benbrack peaks (a few hardy souls attempt to climb all twelve in one day). Look out for bird life, rare Arctic plants, megalithic tombs and Connemara ponies, first gifted to the state by President Erskine Childers.

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SMART EDIT | NATIONAL PARKS

2

Black Forest, Germany Vast forests, deep cirque lakes, peaks and valleys dominate Germany’s largest national park. The Black Forest is a combination of two natural parks, measuring more than 100 square-kilometres in total, in the southwest corner of the country, between Switzerland and France. Home of the cuckoo clock and Black Forest gateau, it offers a host of activities from wine trails on the Baden Wine Route to family cycle trails and the Disneyland-like Europa Park.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Zurich daily.

Cinque Terre, Liguria The five rugged coastal villages of Italy’s Cinque Terre – ingeniously constructed on steep, terraced cliffs and linked only by foot, boat or train – are the stuff of Italophile dreams. Along with the hillsides and coastline, the medieval villages of Monterosso al Mare, Riomaggiore, Vernazza, Corniglia and Manarola, form the Cinque Terre National Park and Unesco site. The Sentiero Azzurro cliffside hiking trail traverses the park, offering views of colourful houses and seafood pit-stops in fishing harbour trattorias.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Pisa three times per week from May 2017.

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4 Snowdonia, Wales Traditionally called “the place of the eagles”, from the Welsh name Eryri, half of Snowdonia National Park is covered by mountain ranges, which explains its popularity with hikers, scramblers and rock climbers. It’s also home to 26,000 permanent residents, the national white-water centre, Greenwood forest park, 23 kilometres of coastline and the Italianate village of Portmeirion. On your first visit, check out Swallow Falls waterfall, Snowdonia mountain railway and the Y Garn trail walk.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Liverpool four times daily.

5

Timanfaya, Lanzarote The Fire Mountains’ sea of colourful dormant volcanoes and pristine lava fields inspire a million visitors each year.

Island-born artist and architect César Manrique is credited with defining the original route through the park, which is accessible by coach only. The earth’s crust is still so hot here that El Diablo restaurant uses an opening in the ground to grill meat and fish.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lanzarote up to 12 times daily, from Cork four times per week, and from Shannon once a week.

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6

Dartmoor, Devon

The wind-swept moors of Devon are famed for their native ponies, Neolithic monuments, ancient woodlands and archaeological remains. The land here has been farmed since prehistoric times and even the ponies have a tale to tell – in the 1800s they transported granite from local quarries. But next to its dramatic granite tors (peaks) and ancient woodlands, Dartmoor National Park has a gentler side. It offers gorge-scrambling, high-rope courses and tea rooms, perfect for family day trips.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newquay four times per week.

8 Storm King Mountain, New York Storm King Mountain looms above the Hudson River like a fortress, dominating a rugged river gorge that runs through Storm King State Park.

This 770-hectare national park, an hour from New York and accessible by public transport, features a small network of walking trails. Butter Hill, Stillman’s and Bluebird trails reward hikers with panoramic views of the Hudson valley and Catskills.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily, from Shannon six times per week, and from Dublin to Newark, New Jersey, daily.

7

Joshua Tree National Park, California Two distinct desert eco systems – the Mojave and Colorado – come together in this 324,000-hectare wilderness. Some 200 kilometres south of LA, this seemingly brutal but fragile land resembles a giant geological mosaic and is home to the Joshua tree, so-called because it reminded Mormon pioneers of the up-stretched arms of Joshua leading them to the Promised Land. Too bad that the Joshua Tree of U2’s 1987 album namesake died of natural causes in 2000.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles four times per week.

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SMART EDIT | NATIONAL PARKS

9

Killarney National Park, Co Kerry

CHRIS HILL

An embarrassment of natural riches awaits visitors – Carrauntoohil, Ireland’s highest peak, the Lakes of Killarney and Ireland’s only herd of native Red Deer. Declared a Unesco biosphere reserve, due to its distinct limestone and sandstone formations, the park is spread over 100 square-kilometres. Take a boat trip to Inisfallen island, visit Muckross House and gardens or soak up views of MacGillycuddy’s Reeks and the Gap of Dunloe from Ladies’ View.

Calanques National Park, Marseille This unique national park in southern France covers land and sea, a spectacular wildness belying its closeness to Marseille. Not surprisingly, locals adore it for hiking and sunbathing. “Calanques” are inlets and the park incorporates a 20-kilometre stretch of them – high rocky promontories above turquoise Mediterranean waters. Two of the biggest calanques are Sormiou and Morgiou and there are tours to those accessible only by boat or kayak. Access to the park is restricted in summer due to fire risk but it is perfect for hiking between October and June.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Marseille four times per week from May 2017.

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OVER TO YOU

10

Next issue we share your favourite LAKESIDE LOCATIONS in Aer Lingus destinations. Have your say @CARAMagazine, using the hashtag #CaraYSWS.

Wild CARD

Best known for its sun, sand and sangria, Tenerife is fast emerging as an adventure playground for fitness fanatics and adrenaline junkies.

WORDS LAUREN HESKIN PHOTOGRAPHS AL HIGGINS

Descending from the mist into the beautiful village of Mesca in the Teno Mountains.

DESTINATION | TENERIFE

enerife? Really?” one friend queried when I told him of my upcoming adventure holiday. Because, let’s face it, Tenerife is not known for its daredevil pursuits – drinking games and mobility scooter high-jinks notwithstanding. The arid south is populated by heat-seeking tourists looking to lounge along its shimmering shorelines and enjoy the cheap drinks of Playa de las Americas and Los Cristianos. But climb over the volcanic mountain range capped by Mount Teide and through the small villages and banana groves via hairpin roads, and you’ll find yourself in a completely different world.

And technically, you are. Once three separate islands, Tenerife emerged three million years ago when these islands were fused

“T

Above, the rocky outcrops of the Teno Mountains. Here, whizzing through the forest trails on the Las Lagunetas to La Esperenza trail.

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together by a volcanic eruption in Teide and the place remains distinctively divided. Activities in the north are not as staid as those in the south, nor is the weather as reliable, but then you’re not coming here for the sun. It’s the adventure sports that draw the crowds here.

As I grab an early morning coffee on the terrace of Meliá Hacienda del Conde (see ‘Sleep At’, page 82), overlooking banana trees and an ink-blue sea, the place is populated

by Lycra shorts and hiking boots, rather than bikinis and beer. Most have come for the hiking, cycling and running through the tough elevations of the national park and Teno mountain range. Others are preparing to dive deep into the Atlantic Ocean and explore its unusual underwater geology, or take advantage of the whipping trade winds for kitesurfing, windsurfing and paragliding.

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For more information: T: +353 (1) 601 7200 | E: sales@kclub.ie | W: www.kclub.ie

DESTINATION | TENERIFE

SLEEP AT …

COLONIAL Winding down through the banana plantations towards the northwest of the island, you will find this luxury gem. An adults-only spa hotel, the high-walled entrance of Meliá Hacienda del Conde gives way to the high-ceilinged colonial atrium opening onto a spectacular view of the sea. Unwind in the lagoon pool, grab a cocktail on the terrace, or simply skip around your ginormous sea-view bedroom suite. Double rooms from €167. (Calle La Finca, +34 922 061 700; melia.com) HIDEAWAY The exclusive Royal Gardens Villa Hotel is really a collection of Asian-inspired villas, each with its own private pool. Overlooking the lush golf course and blue hues of 82 |

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the ocean, the luxurious furnishings and sumptuous surrounds make for an unforgettable hideaway. Villas from €390 a night. (Calle Alcojora, +34 922 711 294; royalgardenvillas.com) QUAINT Located in the historic northern town of Garachico is Hotel san Roque, a bijou hotel set amongst tropical leaves and cobbled streets in an 18th-century mansion. With modern artwork, beautiful architecture and individually designed rooms that all open out onto a courtyard pool, it’s as beautiful as it is tranquil. If you can, splurge on the Tower Suite for your own rooftop patio and solarium. Rooms from €135 for a single. (Garachico, +34 922 13 34 35; hotelsanroque.com)

Clockwise from top left, a quick pitstop on Las Lagunetas trail; the rocky history of Tenerife is told in Cueva del Viento; peekaboo flora in the north; one of the island’s many spectacular viewpoints.

Opposite, overlooking La Esperenza, and happy hiker Miguel Antunes of El Cardón in Mesca.

I, on the other hand, will not (yet) be venturing over or under, but rather into the island itself, through the Cueva del Viento, “the cave of the wind”, one of the largest lava tubes in the world.

Donning hard hats, we discover the geological history of the molten archipelago, right from its initial fusion, through the four successive eruptions and cooling periods that formed the caves, to its time as a burial ground for the island’s indigenous people, the Guanches.

It’s deep, damp, dark, and totally enthralling.

Now that we’ve got our heads around Tenerife’s mind-melting background, it’s time to venture skywards, into Teide National Park (reservasparquesnacionales.es).

A Unesco World Heritage site, this volcanic mountain range, including the still-active El Pico del Teide, has one of the highest elevations in Europe, almost 4,000 metres above sea level. The park is not just home to a gurgling volcano – cyclists, hikers, mountain bikers and paragliders all swarm here for its challenging inclines, high altitudes, arid temperatures, gentle breeze and awesome scenery. It’s a hub for professional sportspeople, who can rent top-quality bikes in just about every town, and there are oodles of local guides competing to show off the island’s natural assets (see ‘Smart Tips’, page 86).

With 30 different trails on offer, it caters to both the casual stroller and the Ironman athlete. However, if you do fancy the Canary-eye view without the blisters, check out the Teide cable car (from €9.50) to the volcano summit. The eight-minute ascent gives you 360º views of the entire archipelago without so much as a quivering quadricep.

If you’re looking for more gentle hills than calf-burning gradient, the Teno mountain range in the north makes for more relaxed walks. El Cardón (elcardon.com) organises relatively simple hikes that take in Tenerife’s history, culture and food too, as knowledgeable local guides point out the native flora and fauna, and introduce you to the ancient

EAT AT ...

FISHY For the freshest of seafood in traditional surroundings and with an exceptional view over the Atlantic, you can’t top Masía del Mar. Just outside Costa Adeje, its traditional Spanish dishes use simple ingredients that are cooked to perfection. (Calle el Muelle 3, +34 922 710 895; masiadelmar.com) FRIENDLY Escape the masses along the Avenue Las Americas and opt for a bird’s-eye view instead. The clean white space of Bianco is the opposite of the garish wares on sale below, and the pizzas are fresh, doughy

perfection. (Commercial Centre Safari, Avenida Las Americas, +34 922 788 697; biancorestauranttenerife.com) FINE Lucas Maes is one of Tenerife’s three Michelin-starred restaurants, and one you have to seek out rather than stumble upon. But don’t be put off by its rather unceremonious approach; once you’re inside, the beautiful patio, deep colours, kitsch decor and magnificent tasting menu will have you entranced – as will the decadent wine list. (Barranco de la Arena 53, +34 922 321 159; restaurantelucasmaes.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to TEN ERIFE four times per week, and from Cork once per week.

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DESTINATION | TENERIFE

MUST VISITS ...

CELESTIAL Romance with a celestial twist, the Sunset and Stars Experience promises a gourmet meal courtesy of Michelin-starred chef Erlantz Gorostiza atop magnificent Mount Teide as the sun pours onto the Atlantic Ocean, followed by a stargazing experience that you’ll never forget, from €61. (volcanoteide.com) HISTORIC Tucked into the north coast of the island, Garachico town is hidden from most tourists by the national park, and is all the better for it. Rebuilt on the ashes and molten lava of the original port town, the cobbled streets, quaint plazas and church steeples make for the perfect

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day trip. Be sure to take a dip into the lava rock pools at the foot of the town.

For a colonial version, check out the beautiful Unesco site of La Laguna, near Santa Cruz.

SPORT For water sports with a seriously breath-taking view, Tenerife Kitesurf organises kite surfing and windsurfing lessons on El Médano beach in the looming shadow of Mount Teide. With a steady breeze most days of the year, bath-watertemperature sea and an experienced crew, you’ll be sailing in a few lessons – so long as you can stop gawking at this incredibly unique beach. (+34 666 201 160; tenerifekitesurf.com)

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DESTINATION | TENERIFE

custom of salto del pastor – a leaping technique similar to the pole-vault that ancient farmers used to travel quickly across the rocky outcrops. Opt for the scenic Las Portelas to Mesca, where spectacular views (not forgetting the spectacularly terrifying road) make for a perfect three-hour trek.

However, for those wanting to test their limits, look to Cristo Armas at Abeque Experience (abeque.es). Hiring the best road and mountain bikes on the island (of which there is a high ratio), he and his team of world-class guides will bring you on a number of heartstopping trails – simply pick your wheels of steel and prepare to be stiff at the end of the day. In comparison, stand-up paddle boarding with the marvellous Cao Sánchez-Serrano of Anaga Experience (anagaatrapies. com) is about as mellow as it gets in the north.

However, the south isn’t all pool

Above, surf’s up for Ciro Semeraro of Sport Club Tenerife, below, leaping into the unknown with Enminube paragliders.

SMART TIPS ACTION HEROES Tenerife Tourism has a dedicated spor ts tourism outfit, Tenerife No Limits. Check it out for a comprehensive list of all the different companies and activities on the island so you can tailor your trip. webtenerife.co.uk/ tenerifenolimits MIS SION POS SIBLE Experience all Tenerife’s spectacular scenery and take on the ultimate challenge in June 2017 with the Tenerife Bluetrail run. Over distances of 5km, 20km, 43km, 66km, and 97km, you’ll experience ever ything from the island’s gnarly forests and lava belts to its sheer cliffs and aqua blue sea. tenerifebluetrail.com For the best value sun holidays and city breaks, including flights and accommodation, visit Holidayswith AerLingus.com .

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loungers and Sex on the Beach – there is plenty to keep the gym bunnies energised here too. Waves roll in on its black beaches, making it the ideal beginners’ surfing spot.

Rent some foamies from Sports Club Tenerife at Playa de las Americas (sctenerife.es) and a onehour session will get you maybenot-up but definitely running.

But for the ultimate in adrenaline-pumping terror, it has to be paragliding. Thankfully the crew at Enminube (enminube.net) kept us calm (read: oblivious) right up until the words “go!” Suddenly, standing at the top of a steep hill, strapped to a 10-metre kite, you realise you’re going to have to run.

Off the edge. But as Helen Keller said, “life is a daring adventure or nothing at all” – so throw yourself into Tenerife and you won’t even glance back.

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DESTINATION | CHICAGO

My Kinda Town

A cutting-edge cosmopolis steeped in age-old tradition, the Canal life, winds of change are blowing through the streets of Chicago.

Blauwburgwal,

in Centrum.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY EOIN HIGGINS

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Opposite, sunset on West Madison Street. This page, the sun also rises, as seen from the Kimpton Burnham Hotel – historically known as the Reliance Building, erected in 1895.

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DESTINATION | CHICAGO

Strolling by the 1936 Fisher studio houses, 12 Art Moderne apartments in Chicago’s Cold Coast neighbourhood.

A

gentle breeze blows in off Lake Michigan, upsetting, for a moment, the cool calm of Lurie Garden. The space, opened to the citizenry in 2004, is a study of light and shade, mirroring a city that is at once intractably tied to its past, while simultaneously striving foward towards breaking new cultural, civic and political ground.

This edifying metropolis is where Barack Obama cut his teeth as a stately orator – from his position as a lecturer in constitutional law at the University of Chicago, to his hopeful address to the city’s first, high-profile anti-Iraq war rally as Illinois State Senator, in 2002.

Lurie Garden is one of a number of gardens within The Loop, the city’s financial and commercial centre, a place where high street brands jostle for attention amid streets filled with art, and Art Deco, landmarks. The Chicago Board of Trade building on Jackson Boulevard, or the opulent Carbide and Carbon Building on Michigan Avenue, are both perfect representations of the lavish optimism of 1920s America. The Loop is also home to – literally – tonnes of large-scale public sculpture, with pieces from Picasso, Miró and Calder peppering its neat boulevards. There’s also The Art Institute of Chicago (artic.edu), an encyclopaedic collection of paintings,

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sculpture, textiles, crafts, furniture ... the list goes on.

The second largest art museum in the United States is worth devouring, for at least an afternoon.

Meanwhile, the city’s ongoing ground breaking is best personified by Logan Square on the northwest side of town. The gentrified district is a playground for alt boys and girls with a penchant for the more experimental end of Modern American food and drinks culture. But it’s not all style over substance. To get a deep flavour of the scene, drop in to the perfectly appointed and handsomely fitted-out Estereo (estereochicago.com) for Latin-accented sundowners – served by friendly, cluedin staff – while absorbing a delicious vinyl collection fed through a warm, analogue amplifier. Logan Square has a whopping collection of cutting-edge eating and drinking experiences, from the Michelin-spangled regional American repertoire at Longman & Eagle (longmanandeagle.com) to the down home, gritty delights on offer at Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits (bangbangpie.com).

All of which goes only some way to scratching the surface of this cosmopolitan slice of urban America, a city that worms its way into the psyche with newness at every turn, while providing the calm, civic spaces where greatness can flourish.

DESTINATION | CHICAGO

2 1 Sax and the city – Damien Rose, from superb street band Chicago Traffic Jam, hits the high notes.

2 Ornamental geometry in the lobby of the Kimpton Burnham Hotel.

1

SLEEP AT …

GLAMOROUS Home of the starry Pump Room restaurant, whose lush banquettes have cupped luminous bottoms – from Steinbeck to Sinatra, Hepburn to Bacall – throughout its history. The Public Chicago hotel itself is no shy, retiring type either. Its lobby had a starring role in Hitchcock’s North by Northwest. But enough namedropping, the accommodation is beautifully turned out: textural, monochrome, architecturally impressive, luxurious – in a slightly scuffed kind of way – and oozing with the ghostly presence of the glitterati. Rooms from $95. (1301 North State Parkway, +1 312 787 3700; publicchicago.com)

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HISTORIC One of the city’s first skyscrapers, the Kimpton Burnham Hotel lives in what was originally called the Reliance Building. A significant, historic landmark, situated in the downtown Chicago Loop, if walls could speak, the Kimpton’s could tell a lot of impressive tales – it once housed the office of Al Capone’s dentist, for instance – and in a way it does: airy rooms, a superb restaurant, helpful staff and an interior that is just as impressive as its glazed terracotta exterior. Rooms from €126.

(1 West Washington Street, +1 312 782 1111; kimptonhotels.com)

BUDGET Low on frills and all the better value for it, the Acme Hotel can still brag.

How does ultra-fast Wi-Fi, stylish interiors, smart TVs, suites fitted for sound with B&W Zeppelin wireless audio systems, and chirpy staff who are ready to go the extra mile to help you get your bearings sound? Good?

Thought so. Rooms are a little on the small side but that’s to be expected and, besides, the fun atmosphere more than makes up for the lack of cat-swinging potential. Rooms from $84. (15 East Ohio Street, +1 312 894 0800; acmehotelcompany.com)

3 3 Crushed avocado, pickled Fresno

chilies, queso fresco and fresh coriander on a country biscuit ... tasty victuals at Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits in Logan Square.

4

4 Hot stuff ... more fiery housemade treats: the hot, hot sauce at Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits.

5 Window type, looking in on Tower

Cleaners & Tailors in Gold Coast.

6 Barber svengali Lawrence Funk gets to grips with the quiff of Chris “Classick” Inumerable at Funk’s Barber Shop on South Dearborn Street.

5

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DESTINATION | CHICAGO

7

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8 7 Clued-in bartender Teo Ninkovic´ at Estereo and a mezcalbased tipple that combines watermelon and lime juices with chilli salt.

8 “One South Wacker”, the gloriously 1980s ‘scraper that played a starring role in the music video for Daft Punk’s Burnin’.

9 Alexander Calder’s 50-tonne Flamingo, in front of the Modernist Kluczynski Federal Building.

9

SMART TIPS YOU R WAY The Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) offer three-day ($20) and seven-day ($28) passes allowing visitors unlimited subway access, including journeys to and from O’Hare International Airport.

CITY PAS S If you plan on taking in a number of Chicago’s top attractions then the Chicago City Pass may be a shrewd purchase. From $98, details at citypass.com/chicago.

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DESTINATION | CHICAGO

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SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to CHICAGO twelve times per week.

11 If a butterfly flaps its

wings ... Lurie Garden’s perennials attract all sorts of eye-catching visitors.

12 Neon sign-posts iconic

lunchspot, The Berghoff, opened in 1898.

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p i h 5'Hoods

Daragh Reddin checks out post-gentrification neighbourhoods that are now on the hipster hotlist.

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PRAGUE

ŽIŽKOV If Prague’s well-beaten tourist trails feel a little too sanitised for your taste, try Žižkov, the city’s former industrial suburb turned rough-and-ready cultural hub. Once known as Red Žižkov – because of its storied Communist party connections – today it’s an endearingly ramshackle spot where you can enjoy good, cheap beer and avant-garde art initiatives, while avoiding the tourist tat that tends to mar some of the city’s more obvious hotspots.

HANG AT While Prague’s Old Cemetery might enjoy greater footfall, it’s actually the New Cemetery (prague. eu), opened around 1890, in Žižkov that plays host to the remains of the city’s most revered son: Franz Kafka.

Fans of the great absurdist

writer should take in his much-snapped grave, as well as the memorial plaque to Max Brod, a great friend of Kafka and an indefatigable champion of his work.

Afterwards, wander Žižkov’s cobbled streets and make a pitstop at Bajkazyl (bajkazyl.cz), a bicycle-rentalshop-cum-kitsch-wateringhole where staff divide their time between pint pulling and puncture repair.

Deemed the “second ugliest building” in the world in one survey, Žižkov’s much-maligned, Communistera Television Tower, left, (towerpark.cz) – all 216 metres of it – might do little to improve the Prague skyline but there’s no question that it’s worth taking the lift to its top-floor observation deck for excellent views of the fairytale city below.

SLEEP AT In keeping with its no-frills reputation, Žižkov doesn’t go in for high-end accommodation; try Clown & Bard, a welcoming hostel with crisp, clean rooms and a lively bar with topnotch local beer. En suite double rooms from €40. (Borivojova 102; clownandbard.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Prague up to four times weekly.

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SMART EDIT | HIP 'HOODS

Manor Street, a busy thoroughfare that bisects Stoneybatter, is peppered with cafés and restaurants but the jewel in Stoneybatter’s culinary crown is L Mulligan Grocer (lmulligangrocer.com), a gastro pub renowned for its bracing IPAs and dizzying array of Irish whiskeys.

Meanwhile, nearby Cotto (cotto.ie) serves authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas and interesting specials by night, while daytime sees its imaginative brunch options draw a crowd.

DUBLIN

STONEYBATTER Stoneybatter is a popular residential enclave on the northside of Dublin city, renowned for its pretty artisanal cottages, authentic pubs and evocative street names that bear witness to its Viking past (who wouldn’t want to live on Olaf Road?). An influx of young professionals to the area in recent years has meant it now has all the amenities any self-respecting social entrepreneur could hope for. But, despite gentrification, there’s still a vibrant working-class contingent here to balance out the worst excesses of matcha-guzzling newbies.

HANG AT It would be easy to while away an entire afternoon in Stoneybatter, wandering through its 100 |

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inviting streets and ogling its soughtafter terraced redbricks. Take a break at the Lilliput Press (lilliputpress.ie), a thriving independent publishing house with a suitably old-world bookshop on its ground floor. Founded by bibliophile Antony Farrell, Lilliput has been a mecca for book lovers in the area for almost 30 years, with recent publishing triumphs including the debut novels of both Donal Ryan and Rob Doyle.

SLEEP AT Rest your head in a perch overlooking the Liffey at the four-star Morrison Hotel, where bright and hightech rooms are just a 20-minute stroll – or ten-minute cab – away from the old school ’Batter. (Ormond Quay Lower; morrisonhotel.ie)

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes “It’s crystal clear” A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.

No.1 of 53 attractions in Waterford

If you’d been around since 1780, you might need a bit of a facelift too.

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+353 (0) 51 317000 houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

SMART EDIT | HIP 'HOODS

SAN FRANCISCO

MISSION DISTRICT

NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY

San Francisco’s Mission District may not have been the first place in the US to experience gentrification but it’s certainly become synonymous with the term. Traditionally a Latino stronghold, the Mission’s openarms policy throughout the centuries has seen it embrace both European and Asian immigrant communities; however, in recent years it’s become the go-to neighbourhood, particularly around moneyed Valencia Street, for upwardly-mobile Silicon Valley workers with a taste for high-end living.

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HANG AT Named after the nearby Mission Dolores, Dolores Park is one of the city’s favourite chill-out spots; its six-hectare lawn provides respite to an amiable cross section of SF society, from fresh-faced, frisbee-flinging millennials to flat white-sipping venture capitalists. When San Francisco played host to Diego Rivera in the 1930s, the revered Mexican painter left a very visible stamp on the city in the shape of three celebrated oversize frescos.

Artists have been responding to Rivera’s work ever since, with the greatest concentration of

eye-catching murals in and around the Mission District. Precita Eyes (precitaeyes.org), the non-profit arts organisation in charge of commissioning and preserving these murals, run all-you-need-toknow walking tours.

SLEEP AT The unmarked Inn San Francisco may look like an unassuming Victorian home from the exterior but, inside, there are 21 stunningly decorated rooms with period features straight out of a Henry James novel. Double rooms from €200. (943 South Van Ness Avenue; innsf.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco five times per week.

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MAARTEN NOORDIJK

AMSTERDAM

NOORD A free, five-minute ferry trip across the IJ river and you’re whisked away from the hedonistic heart of Amsterdam, near Centraal Station, to its new creative centre, Noord. Here the city’s maritime heritage is celebrated in various novel ways, with neglected shipyards playing host to pop-up art projects and old shipping containers repurposed as trendy restaurants and cafés.

HANG AT You don’t have to know your Fellini from your Pasolini to enjoy the magnificent Eye Film Museum (eyefilm.nl), a four-screen visitor centre, above, that has been promoting international arthouse movies since 2012. Be sure to check out its large gallery space, which plays host to thoughtful exhibitions celebrating all things celluloid, and its handsome, glass-fronted waterside café.

SLEEP AT If “quirky” is an essential criteria, book a stay at the Faralda, a 50-metreharbour-crane-turned-luxe-hotel with “sky high panoramic lounge”. Suites from €435.

(NDSM-Plein 78; faralda.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Amsterdam daily.

Party animals could easily fritter away an entire weekend at the nearby A’DAM Toren (adamtoren. nl); formerly the home of Shell, this landmark, 22-storey building has recently been reimagined as a grand pleasure palace, replete with hotel, clubs, bars and a revolving restaurant. For unmatched views of the city the top-floor observation deck is a must, but the woozily-titled OverTheEdge, Europe’s highest swing, is entirely optional …

Il Pecorino, UPPER CRUST For terra firma dining try of locals an authentic Italian restaurant, beloved o.nl orin for its fresh-baked pizza. ilpec

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MICHAEL PIAZZA PHOTOGRAPHY

SMART EDIT | HIP 'HOODS

MASSACHUSETTS

SOMERVILLE Move over Portland, Oregon because Somerville, Massachusetts is fast on its way to becoming the US’s trendiest city. As a result of the telecommunication and biotechnology boom of the 1990s, this once putupon, crime-addled city – three kilometres northwest of Boston – has become one of the country’s latest gentrification success stories, boasting cutting-edge eateries and a winsome cultural calendar designed to appeal to its young, urbane denizens.

HANG AT If traditional galleries and museums feel a little too straitlaced

for your tastes, chances are you’ll feel right at home in Somerville’s Museum of Bad Art (museumofbadart. org), a privately-owned venture where unintentionally hilarious family and pet portraits adorn the walls and invite a critical drubbing from chuckling visitors. The city’s epicureans flock to the restaurants and bars in and around Union and Davis – and also on Inman Square, to Tony Maws’ casual saloon Kirkland Tap and Trotter (kirklandtapandtrotter.com), above, whose “Hot Dog Mondays” are exactly as they say on the tin, and their on-tap beer tasty.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Shannon to Boston daily.

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SLEEP AT The Kimpton group’s chic and contemporary Marlowe Hotel overlooking the Charles River in nearby Cambridge boasts 250 chic rooms, and has Somerville and Boston right on its doorstep. Doubles from €200.

(25 Edwin H Land Boulevard; hotelmarlowe.com)

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DESTINATION | AMSTERDAM

48 HOURS IN

Amsterdam Follow in the clogged footsteps of Niamh O’Dea as she wanders around the Dutch city.

INTIMATE With only three rooms, each one taking up an entire floor of this canal house, Kamer01 could well be Amsterdam’s most exclusive accommodation. Prices include a fivecourse champagne breakfast. Rooms from €210. (Singel 416, +31 654 776 151; kamer01.amsterdam) WATERY Jumping aboard the Airbnb bandwagon makes for a truly unforgettable night, especially if you opt for a floating option. The threestorey Modern Houseboat (no.

1454938) has luxury amenities and an unbeatable view. From €290 per night.

(Near Olympisch Stadion; airbnb.com) 106 |

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Don't miss ...

ILLUMINATING The Amsterdam Light Festival (December 1 to January 22) will leave you with memories few attractions can beat. Do yourself a favour and read as little as possible about it, book yourself an ALF canal cruise and wait for some mind-blowing sights to unfold. Then re-do it all on foot. amsterdamlightfestival.com ALTERNATIVE Most foodies will make it their business to see the expansive Albert Cuyp Market, but Ten Katestraat Market is well worth a visit if you’re in the old west area, where Rembrandtpark and De Foodhallen are.

What it lacks in scale, it makes up for in authentic Dutch eats at local prices.

This, not at those gaudy tourist traps, is where you should buy some cheese to take home.

RALF WESTERHOF / ©

GRAND If you were an adventurous Dutch native in the early 20th century you would likely have found yourself in the building that now houses The Grand Hotel Amrath Amsterdam, purchasing tickets for a sea voyage to the Dutch Indies. Stepping into the lobby transports you to an era of glamour that this building refuses to forget. Rooms from €235. (Prins Hendrikkade 108, +31 205 520 000; amrathamsterdam.com)

FRAN K KERS SING

Sleep at ...

POP-UP If you’re lucky enough to be in the capital in December, you’re in for a literal treat. Oliebollen food trucks appear as if by magic across the country, selling round, oversized doughnuts dusted with icing sugar or pixie dust or something equally addictive. They simply disappear in time for the January diet, which explains why the city isn’t filled with walking, talking oversized doughnuts à la the “you are what you eat” adage.

Clockwise from top: cobweb-blowing walks don’t come much prettier than along Amsterdam’s canals; artist Ralf Westerhof’s offering at the Light Festival; old school elegance at The Grand Hotel Amrath, and Kamer01 boutique hotel.

Drink at ...

THOM BOHEEM EN

EDUCATIONAL Genever, a Dutch gin, has an interesting history that The House of Bols, located in the museum district, helps you discover.

The interactive experience even offers cocktail-making classes. (Paulus Potterstraat 14, +31 205 708 575; houseofbols.com)

Clockwise from top left: shabby chic comes with vintage arcade games at TonTon Club; Michelin-starred sweet treats at Ciel Bleu; cocktail hour at The House of Bols, and Mossel & Gin, which, contrary to its name, doesn't only serve molluscs and juniper liquor.

Eat at ...

STREET Take a short detour from your obligatory Vondelpark adventures for hipster foodie heaven at De Foodhallen.

Housed in a former tram depot, the huge space boasts 20-plus lively streetfood vendors. There’s meat-a-plenty in the form of burgers and gourmet hotdogs; Vietnamese loempia and Greek mezze; fish and chips; gin and tonic – and unmissable spicy Korean chicken served in a sweet doughnut. (Bellamyplein 51, +31 629 265 037; foodhallen.nl) ELEVATED When a restaurant is the holder of two Michelin stars, you can expect dizzying greatness. Ciel Bleu, Amsterdam’s most celebrated fine dining

restaurant, certainly doesn’t disappoint.

Situated on the 23rd floor of Hotel Okura in De Pijp, the stunning views, relaxed atmosphere, and breathtaking food make for an evening of rare elegance. (Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, +31 206 786 450; okura.nl) BOOZY Mossel & Gin translates, as you likely hoped, to mussels and gin, and that’s exactly what you can expect. Dutch courage comes in a delightful selection of herby and fruity infusions that should spur you to try the oddly appetising Roquefort mussels.

(Gosschalklaan 12, +31 204 865 869; mosselengin.nl)

RETRO For some good clean fun in the Red Light District, choose TonTon Club.

The hip café is wall-to-wall with more arcade games, pinball machines, and air hockey and ping-pong tables than you could possibly wish for. The crowd is young, the beer is craft and bar snacks are decent for when your wrists need a break. (Polonceaukade 27, +31 634 412 913; tontonclub.nl) CHARMING Though most visitors savour Hannekes Boom’s showy waterfront energy in the summer, the hotspot is a cosy little charmer in winter.

When you get caught in a downpour on your way from Central Station to NEMO, nip in here and curl up beside the real fireplace with some bitterballen and a Dutch beer. (Dijksgracht 4, +31 204 199 820; hannekesboom.nl)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin and Cork to AMSTERDAM daily.

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ADVERTORIAL

Leveraging technology to survive and thrive Ergo CEO John Purdy talks about what businesses need to do to stay competitive and grow in 2017.

As co-founder of one of Ireland’s leading IT services companies, John Purdy has been working at the forefront of technological innovation for more than 20 years. The winner of many business awards, including the 2014 EY Industry Entrepreneur of the Year, he has also shown exceptional leadership qualities, which have helped him grow Ergo as well as spin out two companies – Fenergo and FlowForma.

Right now, when every business is under pressure to become a digital business, Purdy spends a lot of time advising companies on what they need to do. “If you’re not already embarking on a digital transformation journey you should be,” he says. “Cloud, mobility and data analytics are all part of the digital armoury you’ll need to compete and grow. It’s all about having the right tools in the right part of the business, whether it’s a CRM system for supporting sales or a business analytics platform to help product development.”

He said that digital technology is all about blurring the lines between physical and virtual worlds for more efficient processes, better communications,

greater all-round agility and better profits. “If you want a single mission for 2017, it’s using all of these to get closer to customers,” he adds.

Technology is the enabler and it also drives competitive advantage.

The challenge is deciding how it should be implemented. “At this stage, most businesses recognise the value of managed services – entrusting IT to a provider like Ergo, which allows you to concentrate on your core business,” says Purdy. “We make it our business to get to know our customers and we match technology to their needs.”

Ergo provides high-profile corporate and enterprise customers at home and abroad with a comprehensive range of services, including a suite of Microsoft solutions, managed print, and IT resourcing.

Some customers have been with them for over 20 years. The relationship may be the same, forged on trust and transparency, but the technology has changed radically because Ergo’s business model is predicated on always being ahead of the curve.

“I describe Ergo as being in constant startup mode and I’d argue that every business now needs to think the same way,” says Purdy. “Every business must have a capacity for reinvention, adapting to market forces that change with increasing velocity. You have to go and grab new opportunities or risk getting left behind.”

Ergo 1st Floor, Block T, East Point Business Park, Dublin 3, Ireland T: +353 1 884 3200 W: ergogroup.ie

ON BUSINESS

Making travel work for you

Star Power Irish screenwriter Russell Simpson reveals the blockbuster hits of his adopted home of Los Angeles.

Business

lassic folly is to see Los Angeles as one homogenous place to love to loath. It’s big, ten-times-thesize-of-Paris big; but it’s not really a city at all, rather lots of interconnected villages, each with its own distinctive feel – and these mini-Angeles are cool again. Google just spent $120 million on a site near Marina del Rey, Beyoncé eschewed New York

C

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LOS ANGELES four times weekly.

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for Bel Air, and San Fran’s gentrification has sent creativity south.

Take Downtown, gloriously moving from corporate anonymity to artistic and gustatory heaven. The formidable $140 million Broad (221 South Grand Avenue; thebroad.org) is already a stalwart of contemporary art. Think Koons, Twombly, Murakami, then think guanciale pizza at Bestia (2121 East Seventh Place; bestiala.com). Or head to Culver City where Blum & Poe (2727 South La Cienega Boulevard; blumandpoe.com) showcases cuttingedge artists, Kanye included.

Then there’s Hollywood, where studio grandeur peeps out of a fug of dreams.

Everyone has their ’hood, and mine is the Westside. With notable exceptions, here’s the best of my village ...

RICK POON

Left, colourful creations at The Broad and bottom left, dipping delights at Bestia.

Right, open plan dining at Cassia and, below, California-style alfresco at Gjelina.

SIERRA PRESCOTT

BEN GIBBS PHOTOGRAPHY

Smart Tip Right off the Venice boardwalk, on Westminster Avenue, is an unassuming row of notable hole-in-thewall eateries: El Huarique serves the best Peruvian ceviche in town (elhuariquevenice. com), the Wee Chippy does venerable fish and chips (weechippy.com) and Groundwork Coffee is right opposite for locally roasted, organic caffeine (groundworkcoffee. com).

Eat at …

HIP At Gjelina, chef Travis Lett is in charge of some of the best farm-to-table food in the city. The Alice Waters-inspired vegetables are astonishing: the wood-roasted cauliflower is a life highlight and the charred okra redefines lady’s fingers.

It’s annoyingly Venice-hip but well worth the pilgrimage. (1429 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, +1 310 450 1429; gjelina.com) EXPENSE IT Cassia is a sprawling, heady intersection of Cali-FrenchVietnamese cooking. The open kitchen delivers satisfying Vietnamese pot-aufeu and rich flatbreads. The bar at the back of this industrial hangar serves a Cassia martini with a smoked quail egg. Of course it does. (1314 Seventh Street, Santa Monica, +1 310 393 6699; cassiala.com) CHILLED Venice Beach Wines ruled Rose Avenue when few dared step foot on the street. Now it’s the OG establishment on this golden stretch of Venice which includes the excellent Pono Burger and vegan haven Café Gratitude. VBW is the place to see in happy hour with local beer and a goat’s cheese hot-pot. (529 Rose Avenue, +1 310 606 2529; venicebeachwines.com)

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Business

Cruise Control

Download cab app Uber – it’s beyond essential. Then take one to SooWon Galbi on South Vermont Avenue in Koreatown for delectable and inexpensive Korean barbecue.

Stay at ...

AFFORDABLE Chaplin, Morrison and Hopper all gave the Rose Hotel, right, their seals of approval. It’s cosy, wonky and right on the beach.

There’s an intimate B&B vibe here – lots of mid-century modern and local Stumptown coffee. Grab one of their beach cruisers and roll through the Venice circus of humanity.

Double rooms from $175. (15 Rose Avenue, +1 310 450 3474; therosehotelvenice.com) WEIRD In the middle of the Mojave Desert, the vintage airstreams at Kate’s Lazy Desert, left, aren’t technically in LA. However, each is decorated by a local artist and you’re eight kilometres from the mind-blowing Joshua Tree.

Wrap up in the expanse of the cold desert night and see why it was called the “Wild West”.

Airstream for two from $175. (58380 Botkin Road, +1 845 688 7200; lazymeadow.com)

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LUXE Refreshingly hidden up the quiet end of Santa Monica, Palihouse Santa Monica has an exclusive members’ club feel – lots of wall-mounted antlers and sumptuous Chesterfields.

You’re a stroll from the independent luxury of Montana Avenue in one direction, or the big-brand experience of Third Street Promenade the other.

Retire by the lobby fireplace for a Negroni. Double rooms from $335. (1001 Third Street, Santa Monica, +1 310 394 1279; palihousesantamonica.com)

Play at ...

ICONIC Largo at the Coronet is a comedy must. Big name regulars test material here all the time, including Sarah Silverman, Russell Brand, Maya Rudolph and Tig Notaro. It’s really intimate, pleasingly rough around the edges and there’s a great speakeasy hidden through the Palm Reader and Tarot Card joint next door. (366 North La Cienega Boulevard, +1 310 855 0350; largo-la.com) EDGY If you want lasers and table service, this isn’t the place for you – go to Avalon in Hollywood. The Airliner is a tiny dive but it showcases the best in contemporary LA hip-hop and electronica – think TOKiMONSTA and Flying Lotus. Thom Yorke and Erykah Badu sometimes show up and play sets. (2419 North Broadway, +1 323 221 0771)

ANDY KEILEN

Left, the light and bright Palihouse.

Right, Steve Martin giving it socks at Largo at the Coronet and, below, enter into the Cuban-style La Descarga through a wardrobe.

ALTERNATIVE You can’t just show up at La Descarga – reserve online and enter through a wardrobe at the back of a secret office (yes). Suddenly you’re in a two-tiered Cuban speakeasy with spectacular burlesque shows Thursdays through Saturdays. It’s pure Hollywood bizzaro – dress up all fancy and smoke a stogie in the back lounge. (1159 North Western Avenue, +1 323 466 1324; ladescargala.com)

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Business

Downtime at ...

HIDDEN In an Inglewood warehouse, Three Weavers Brewery runs a superfriendly tasting room with a suntrap terrace. Kick back with a flight of fresh beer and watch the brewery at work, or dig into one of their board games. The best bit? The founder and brewmaster are both women. (1031 West Manchester Boulevard, +1 310 400 5830; threeweavers.la)

NATURE LA is far from a concrete jungle; nature and city embrace in harmonious cohabitation (except when coyotes eat our cats). Will Rogers State Historic Park was the private ranch of the famous cowboyturned-movie star. Tour his old ranch house, then stroll up Inspiration Point Trail below which Southern California unfolds before you. (1501 Will Rogers State Park Road, +1 310 454 8212; parks.ca.gov)

AOIFE DOOLEY

RELAX Any time I can subsidise my laziness, I do. If it involves lying by the ocean on a comfy lounger with ice-cold drinks, fresh fruit, a Bluetooth speaker and the option of a gourmet picnic, even better.

Beach Now is an ingenious concierge service that serves you on Venice Beach, debauched-emperor style. Book online or download the app. venicebeachnow.com

Venice Beach in all its sun-kissed Californian glory.

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Overall Supplier of the Year 2016 Hapag Lloyd (Ireland) Limited

Pamela Quinn National Manager Kuehne+Nagel Ireland Ltd. Tom Foster Sales Director Hapag Lloyd (Ireland) Limited

Recognising our Suppliers of the year for 2016

SEAFREIGHT • AIRFREIGHT • OVERLAND • CONTRACT LOGISTICS• INTEGRATED LOGISTICS Kuehne + Nagel Ireland Ltd., Dublin + Cork + Shannon T: + 353 1 823 9777 E: sales.ie@kuehne-nagel.com W: www.kuehne-nagel.com

Business MY FAVOURITE WINE DESTINATIONS Travel is one of the most exciting parts of the job and I often visit winemakers abroad.

This is where the passion for the industry is brought to life, as nothing compares to standing in the field or plot where the wine in your glass comes from.

A DAY IN THE LIFE

9am I wish I could say I wake up to birdsong but truthfully I am up around nine. First thing is let the dog out and make coffee. No more than two cups – I have to stop myself! Then I check my sous-vide [a water bath for vacuumcooking food in an airtight bag] – this was a birthday gift from my husband, David, and now I am mildly addicted to trying it on everything. Today was pork belly cooked overnight at 65 degrees, which I will sear for Sunday lunch (with a bottle of German Spätlese Riesling).

12pm Barring events or wine tastings, I am in The Shelbourne for midday to check the day’s reservations and special requests or pre-orders. Then lunch service begins, with typically between 50 to 100 guests depending on the day of week. Service is usually quick and snappy with our weekday business lunches but The Saddle Room in The Shelbourne is also hugely popular for family get-togethers and other celebrations and these tend to be more relaxed, especially at the weekends. We have two beautiful private dining rooms in The Saddle Room, which are often booked for parties.

3pm The afternoon is a time to catch up on all correspondence, emails, Twitter, internal requests and calling back guests with queries.

I meet wine suppliers to taste new wines for our list and discuss what is happening in the city and further afield. Today I am checking out new glassware and decanters. We use the Coravin system to pour premium wines by the glass without risk of spoilage or wastage, so I want to get some specific glasses for each style of wine.

4pm When I can find the time, I slip out to one of the trade wine tastings or wine lunches.

This is the best time to catch up with other sommeliers and wine buyers to share ideas and news. This is also my time to catch up with the kitchen and discuss upcoming menus and 116 |

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PHOTOGRAPH BY EOIN HIGGINS

Nisea Doddy is a sommelier at Dublin’s Shelbourne Hotel. She likes to ease into a long day, gently.

food and wine pairings. I love working closely with the chefs as, in my head, wine is nothing without food and vice versa. The Shelbourne Oyster Festival, which ran during September, was great fun to match wines with and then we had our autumn tasting menus to work on.

I am very lucky to have free rein and support from our executive team when it comes to the wine programme and staff training. We are currently investing in vintage flights and expanding our fine wine offerings for 2017.

5.30pm Dinner begins at this time every evening so we all grab a quick bite to eat and it’s straight to our daily staff briefing, where I run through vintage changes, new wines, explaining provenance and the stories behind the wines. The Shelbourne has been an integral part of Dublin life for centuries and I love working in the hotel – there is nowhere in the city as enjoyable for atmosphere, people and glamour as The Shelbourne.

From pre-theatre onwards this is a busy time of day, with pre-dinner drinks in No. 27 bar to dinner in The Saddle Room – I am chatting with guests recommending, decanting and generally rushing around.

BORDEAUX, FRANCE A beautiful city that I’ve visited many times and it never grows old.

I remember one early visit when myself and another Dublin sommelier, fresh off our flight, headed to the main square to pop a bottle of Champagne to “prepare” ourselves for the coming tasting of en primeur reds!

SAN FRANCISCO, US The gateway to Napa and Sonoma, but wine aside, I love everything about it – the hills, the cable cars, Chinatown, Union Square, Castro, City Light Books, the hippy towns up in the hills, the stunning coastal drives – it has it all. My favourite place to stay is the Hotel Triton (hoteltriton.com).

9.30pm Service begins to wind down. I can then step away and hand over the end of service to my assistant, Pawel, and the rest of the team.

10.30pm We live in a lovely quiet part of Dublin, near the Botanic Gardens and Glasnevin Cemetery, so I am back home around this time each evening to get the dog out again. We are also currently redecorating so will continue my work on this project, or catch up with friends and family, maybe over a glass of something cold! I am loving Craigies Cider from Wicklow at the moment.

VERONA, ITALY One of the most wonderful cities to visit at any time. Some of my most memorable dinners have been here, with my first taste of a properly made risotto all’ Amarone and thin as silk tortellini filled with pumpkin. And of course a glass of Ripasso.

I’m daydreaming about it now …

Š 2016 Ernst & Young. All Rights Reserved. 10968.indd. ED None (Shutterstock.com)

Will you wait for the future to happen or, will you take a hand in shaping it?

EY Ireland has had four years of market-leading, double-digit growth creating opportunities across our organisation. There has never been a better time to come home and join EY. Find out more at eyirelandcareers.ey.com/experienced Dublin I Cork I Limerick I Waterford I Galway I Belfast

Business

2

1

APP Like Uber for apartment rentals, last-minute booking app Overnight recently added New York to its portfolio in LA, Austin and San Francisco. Listings are for sameday stays only but rates are cheap.

Simply drop a pin on the app’s map, hit request and you’ll see a list of available homes-away-from-home in the area that night. joinovernight.com

DRINKS London’s oldest whisky shop, Milroy’s of Soho, is back after a minor facelift. Connoisseurs will enjoy the more than 250 whiskies offered – all poured at 35ml – and will feel they’re in-the-know with a trip below to The Vault, a hidden bar in the basement serving seasonal cocktails. (3 Greek Street, +44 207 734 2277; milroys.co.uk/thevaultsoho.co.uk)

3 BUSINESS

TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes on the latest gadgets, events and wind-down spots.

4

EVENT Some of the world’s top motivational speakers, such as Lisa Nichols and Robin Sharma swing by Dublin this January for Pendulum Summit 2017. “Unleash Your Warrior Mindset” is the theme and the 7,000 attendees will be coached in areas ranging from leadership and team performance to professional improvement. (January 11-12, The Convention Centre Dublin; pendulumsummit.com)

5

APP Go from Tradeshift takes the pain out of expense management.

Ideal for SMEs, Go tracks transactions and sends email alerts direct to finance teams. With its chat interface, the multitasking app can book work trips, flights and car rental and then store your travel preferences to personalise your next trip. tradeshift.com/Go

6

STAY Celebrated for its iconic, nine-storey atrium, The Beekman in Downtown Manhattan is both an architectural gem and New York’s most hotly anticipated luxury hotel stay. Perfectly positioned near the World Trade Center and City Hall it also boasts two scrumptious, and starry, restaurants: Fowler & Wells, from acclaimed chef Tom Colicchio, and Augustine from ace restauteur Keith ‘Balthazar’ McNally. (123 Nassau Street, +1 212 233 2300; thompsonhotels.com)

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CARRY ON Roomy enough to hold a tablet and headphones securely, the Seat Pak Pro by Flight001 carry-on bag is the perfect flight companion for the super-organised (or those who aspire to be). Every zipped compartment is labelled so you know exactly where your smartphone and passport are at a glance and, with the loop handle, you can hook the open case to your tray table and have everything you need for the journey right in front of you. €35 at bearandbear.com.

EVENT Now in its seventh year, Business Insider’s flagship conference Ignition in New York from December 5-7 explores what’s shaking up the digital world. Whether you work in tech, entertainment or finance, the conference offers insights to 700 senior executives from industry pioneers – including this year’s keynote speaker, Arianna Huffington – about the key trends and how to stay ahead of the curve. (Time Warner Center; businessinsider.com)

A U D I T | TA X | A D V I S O R Y | O U T S O U R C I N G

Specialist Accountants When you need specialist insight into Financial Services, International Trade and Government, our knowledge is deep and our partner led approach is personal.

Our niche focus in these three areas is what makes us unique. When it matters, choose a specialist.

EisnerAmper Ireland is the Irish owned member of EisnerAmper Global, a specialist network of independent member firms operating via global financial trading hubs.

“If you are a bank or other regulated firm establishing or expanding your business in Ireland, we’re the people to talk to.”

David Montgomery

Partner, Head of Risk & Regulatory (former Irish Central Bank regulator)

www.eisneramper.ie F I N A N C I A L S E R V I C E S – I N T E R N AT I O N A L T R A D E – G O V E R N M E N T © 2016 EISNERAMPER IRELAND. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Business Hotel

BEANTOWN BOLTHOLE

Lucy White checks into Boston’s excellent Kimpton Nine Zero Hotel.

WHAT & WHERE If location, location, location is king, then Downtown Boston’s four-star Nine Zero Hotel is as majestic as they come. Perfectly placed for an executive blow-in, it’s just a few minutes’ walk to Boston Common – and, handily, Park Street subway station for zipping over to MIT and Cambridge. If your expense account allows it, book a skyline room, whose vistas include the gleaming, gold dome of Massachusetts State House and the twinkling high-rise, Prudential Tower.

Contemporary comforts make for a relaxing stopover, the hotel’s muted colour scheme given va-va-voom with pops of lime upholstery in the lobby and snazzy blue headboard-lighting

in spacious rooms (tip: the switch is on the side of the bed-stand; this writer was searching for what felt like forever). Rooms from $172. (90 Tremont Street, +1 617 772 5800; ninezero.com) DOWN TO BUSINESS In addition to ergonomic workspaces in guestrooms, Nine Zero has 223 square metres of conference and events facilities, some of which have potentially distracting views of Boston Common and Back Bay. Expect to see the lobby rammed between 5pm and 6pm, for “wine o’clock” – a free vino reception for guests (networking opportunity alert?)

– while Highball Bar upstairs is a big attraction for the after-work crowd,

drawn to its cocktails, craft beer selection and retro board games.

DOWNTIME De-stress with a workout in the fitness centre, jog along the Charles River, or have a spa treatment in the comfort of your own room – if, that is, you can tear yourself away from the plush guestroom bathrobe that, with its natty animal print collar, wouldn’t look out of place in Joan Collins’ boudoir. In Boston Common, skate the Frog Pond in winter and, in summer, play Spot the Bench where Matt Damon and Robin Williams had their tête-á-tête in Good Will Hunting (clue: it is now usually peppered with tributes to Williams).

PRIVATE LIVES Make time to visit Gibson House Museum, where an upscale, single-family residence, completed in 1860, is a fascinating time capsule.

Original furniture and fixtures fill each room, as if the Gibsons have just nipped out for their daily constitutional in the Public Gardens. (137 Beacon Street, +1 617 267 6338; thegibsonhouse.org)

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r to JM SHARING IS CARING Lollop ove sign – Curley – look out for the top hat as fried h for gratifying sharing plates, suc poutine, pickles with creole mayo, duck Place, ple and charcuterie boards. (21 Tem .com) +1 617 338 5333; jmcurleyboston

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston twice daily, and from Shannon daily.

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Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT never be anyone else, nor do I want to be, so I think it is important to own that.

3

C ian’s

SMART CITY

Fear is not a reason not to take a risk If 2016 has taught me anything it is that taking risks, whether artistically, personally or professionally, is revitalising. It opens you up to new ideas and, in the case of my work with Project Arts Centre, deeply connects you to the roots of your organisation.

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DESTINATION My first Berlin experience was visiting family and it blew my mind. It has since become an important destination for me to see new work and meet new artists on the international scene. It is one of the few places outside Dublin I could imagine living in.

KATIE McLAUGHLIN ROBINSON

Communication is key Managing relations and communicating complex ideas to different stakeholders is no easy task. Something I have learnt – through hard lessons – is to put everything in writing.

CIAN O’BRIEN is artistic director of Dublin’s

1

Project Arts Centre, a leading hub for contemporary arts. In 2016, it celebrated its 50th anniversary with a season of contemporary work by some of Ireland’s foremost artists. Cian was with Rough Magic Theatre Company before being appointed at Project in 2011.

Trust your gut This is the number one lesson I have learned throughout my career. If you are a decision maker, you will inevitably have to stand up and make the final decision, and while it is important to listen to the people around you, I have found that, without fail, my first impulse has always been the right decision. Never act impulsively but rather

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recognise and trust your own judgement as a leader.

2

Don’t try to be anyone else When I started at Project five years ago I was aware of the brilliant people who had come before me in the role and the expectations of the many artists and audiences that call the centre home. Despite many efforts – wigs, makeup – I will

Reaching for your dreams leads to bigger dreams That might sound a little bit corny but after five years I only now feel that I finally have a handle on my job and the complexity of relationships that come about through working with artists, audiences and staff. All the work I have done with artists and colleagues around Project’s 50th anniversary in 2016 has given me a new understanding of the potential of my role and what could be achieved in the coming years.

6

Never underestimate the power of a diva Sometimes you just need a bit of Tina Turner to get through the day ...

In December, Project Arts Centre presents Live Collision, Ireland’s first live art festival, and new works from choreographer John Scott.

In January, actress Olwen Fouéré and French author Laurent Gaudé present their new work Danse, Morob. projectartscentre.ie

SLEEP AT The Weinmeister Hotel is always my first port of call. It has giant beds, great service and is in the perfect location, in Mitte. Also, Father Carpenter’s coffee just around the corner is the perfect place to start your Berlin day. the-weinmeister.com

EAT AT WAU Bar at Berlin’s most exciting contemporary performance venue HAU, on Hallesches Ufer, is the ultimate theatre bar. A great place to have a quick bite and a spritz before seeing a show by some of the world’s best contemporary performers. wau-berlin.de

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin daily.

MEDICAL

Make a difference for patients.

Join our team.

GREAT OPPORTUNITIES AWAIT YOU At Cook Medical we provide minimally invasive technologies that reduce the need for open surgery for patients across the world. Our people make our company special.

As a Cook Medical engineer no day is the same. You’ll get the opportunity to develop, build and deliver medical devices designed to improve patient outcomes at our site in Limerick. If you have a desire to make a change and impact the lives of patients come join our team. We’re looking for likeminded people in Engineering, Quality and Regulatory.

Visit cookmedical.eu/careers to find out more.

WHAT’S DIFFERENT ABOUT WORKING AT COOK MEDICAL • • • • • •

Engineers collaborate directly with clinicians Full involvement from concept to commercialisation Dynamic innovative teams Career making opportunities Unique company culture Work-life balance

© COOK 11/2016

CORP-D31556-EN-F

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Flying with Aer Lingus

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment.

Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

126 Welcome aboard 127 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Connecting to Wi-Fi 144 Our Route Networks Inflight Entertainment 130 Movies to North America 131 Movies from North America 132 Our Classic Movie Selection 135 Television On Demand 138 Radio On Demand 139 Music On Demand

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Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you.

After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight.

If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

Why not try speaking a few words of the native language while you are visiting Ireland!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Goodbye ...is ainm dom My name is...

Conas atá tú? How are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithscéal Excuse me Cara Friend

Aer Lingus are proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded

by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page.

Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.

Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information.

View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Are you ready for take-off and landing?

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.



Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in ’flight mode’?

   

Is your seatback fully upright?

Is your armrest down?

Is your tabletop stowed?

Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting.

ON Airplane Mode

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off.

Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

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Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and reduce jet lag.

KEEP MOVING On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Your comfort and safety

EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

EYE CARE



Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.



Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.



If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

Airbus 330-

200

For your Safety

Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Please do

not remov

e from Aircra

Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do

ft

TIME ZONES ON

Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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Airplane Mode

not remov

e from Aircra

ft

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

Mode

Mode

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

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Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

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Comedy The Secret Life of Pets 90 mins

PG

The pets gather to start their day as the two-legged residents head for work and school. The head hound‘s position at the epicentre of his master’s universe is suddenly threatened when she comes home with Duke, a sloppy mongrel. Voiced by Charlize Theron, Nick Frost and Emily Blunt.

EN DE ES

Action

Ben Hur

IT

Comedy

PG13

Ghostbusters

PG13

Morgan

R

Skiptrace

PG13

120 mins After years at sea, Judah returns to seek revenge.

Stars Ayelet Zurer, Jack Huston, Morgan Freeman

115 mins Four women team together after a ghost invasion in Manhattan.

Stars Melissa McCarthy, Kristen Wiig, Kate McKinnon

92 mins A corporate troubleshooter evaluates an accident.

Stars Kate Mara, Anya Taylor-Joy, Rose Leslie

107 mins Bennie Black is tracking a dangerous crime boss. Stars Jackie Chan, Johnny Knoxville, Bingbing Fan

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

Comedy

Drama

Documentary

The Legend of Tarzan

PG13

Absolutely Fabulous: The Movie

R

110 mins Tarzan is invited back to the Congo after many years. Stars Alexander Skarsgård, Rory J Saper, Christian Stevens

91 mins Edina and Patsy get caught in a media storm.

Stars Jennifer Saunders, Joanna Lumley

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Café Society

IT

PG13

Gleason

96 mins A Bronx native is swept up in high society nightclub life. Stars Jesse Eisenberg, Kristen Stewart, Steve Carell

110 mins Steve Gleason was diagnosed with ALS at 34 years old. Stars Steve Gleason, Mike Gleason, Scott Fujita

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

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R

Coat of Many Colors

PG

The Duel

120 mins The true story of Dolly Parton‘s remarkable upbringing. Stars Alyvia Alyn Lind, Jennifer Nettles, Ricky Schroder

110 mins A series of mysterious disappearances of local people. Stars Woody Harrelson, Liam Hemsworth, Emory Cohen

EN CCEN

EN DE ES

R

Ice Age: Collision Course 96 mins Scrat sets off a series of cosmic events in the universe. Stars Ray Romano, Denis Leary, John Leguizamo EN FR DE IT ES

EN PG

FR DE IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English

Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action

Jason Bourne

Action Suicide Squad 123 mins

PG13

The Trust

R

92 mins Two cops discover a hidden vault that could make them rich. Stars Nicolas Cage, Elijah Wood, Sky Ferreira

EN

EN DE ES CCEN

Documentary

Batman: The Killing Joke

PG13

US Intelligence officer Amanda Waller assembles a team of the world‘s most dangerous, incarcerated super villains and sends them off on a mission to defeat an enigmatic entity. Stars Will Smith, Jared Leto, Margot Robbie and Cara Delevingne.

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Comedy

Animation

124 mins The dangerous former CIA operative is drawn out of hiding. Stars Matt Damon, Tommy Lee Jones, Alicia Vikander

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

R

77 mins The Joker wages a psychological war on Batman. Voiced by Kevin Conroy, Mark Hamill, Tara Strong EN

Drama

Bad Moms

R

101 mins Amy is stressed out and ditches her responsibilities. Stars Mila Kunis, Kathryn Hahn, Kristen Bell

Captain Fantastic

R

R

114 mins Two friends in Miami exploit a government initiative. Stars Jonah Hill, Miles Teller, Steve Lantz

118 mins Ben‘s unconventional parenting is challenged.

Stars Viggo Mortensen, George MacKay, Samantha Isler

EN FR DE

War Dogs

EN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

For the Love of Spock

PG13

Little Men

PG

115 mins

The Light PG13 Between Oceans

100 mins This film celebrates the 50th anniversary of Star Trek. Stars Chris Pine, Zoe Saldana, Karl Urban

A childhood friendship is threatened by parents actions. Stars Greg Kinnear, Jennifer Ehle, Paulina García

132 mins A couple discover a boat washed ashore carrying a baby. Stars Michael Fassbender, Alicia Vikander, Rachel Weisz

EN

EN FR

EN

Pete‘s Dragon 102 mins The adventures of orphan boy Pete and his dragon. Stars Bryce Dallas Howard, Robert Redford, Oakes Fegley EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

PG

Robinson Crusoe

EN PG

90 mins After a storm there is a strange creature on the beach. Stars Matthias Schweighöfer, Kaya Yanar, Ilka Bessin

FR DE IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English

EN FR DE IT

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We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America.

Timeless favourites such as Driving Miss Daisy and Aliens are available, as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.

Our Classic Movie Selection

Adam

PG13

99 mins Stars Hugh Dancy, Rose Byrne, Peter Gallagher EN FR DE IT ES

Fight Club

139 mins Stars Brad Pitt, Edward Norton, Meat Loaf

R

EN FR DE

Runner Runner

R

91 mins Stars Ben Affleck, Justin Timberlake, Gemma Arterton EN FR DE IT ES

Aliens

R

Big

PG

137 mins Stars Sigourney Weaver, Michael Biehn, Carrie Henn

104 mins Stars Tom Hanks, Elizabeth Perkins, Robert Loggia

EN FR

EN FR DE

Flags of our Fathers

R

Gravity

Casino Royale

PG13

144 mins Stars Daniel Craig, Judi Dench EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

Hocus Pocus

PG

135 mins Stars Ryan Phillippe, Barry Pepper

91 mins Stars Sandra Bullock, George Clooney, Ed Harris

96 mins Stars Bette Midler, Sarah Jessica Parker, Kathy Najimy

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR ES

Sex and the City

The Muppet Christmas Carol

The Nightmare Before Christmas

R

137 mins Stars Sarah Jessica Parker, Kim Cattrall EN FR DE

G

PG13

PG

EN FR

Diary of a Wimpy Kid: Dog Days

PG

Driving Miss Daisy

113 mins Stars Johnny Depp, Michelle Pfeiffer

94 mins Stars Zachary Gordon

97 mins Stars Morgan Freeman, Jessica Tandy

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR

EN FR DE

Home Alone

PG

102 mins Stars Macaulay Culkin, Joe Pesci, Daniel Stern

The Rocker

Lethal Weapon

R

110 mins Stars Mel Gibson, Danny Glover, Gary Busey EN FR DE

EN FR

89 mins Stars Michael Caine, 77 mins Dave Goelz Stars Danny Elfman EN DE IT

Dark Shadows

PG13

102 mins Stars Rainn Wilson, Josh Gad, Christina Applegate EN FR DE IT ES

PG

PG

Letters from Iwo Jima

R

141 mins Stars Ken Watanabe, Kazunari Ninomiya

Thunderball

95 mins Stars Robert Downey Jr, Zach Galifianakis

R

EN FR DE IT

JP CCEN

The Spy who Loved Me

Due Date

Love the Coopers

PG13

110 mins Stars Steve Martin, Diane Keaton, John Goodman EN

125 mins Stars Roger Moore, Barbara Bach, Curd Jürgens

130 mins Stars Sean Connery, Claudine Auger, Adolfo Celi

EN FR DE IT

EN FR ES

PG

Tim Burton‘s Corpse Bride

PG

77 mins Voiced by Johnny Depp, Helena Bonham Carter EN FR DE IT ES

Irish Shorts and Features

Caitheamh

83 mins Stars Seána Kerslake, Tara Lee, Charleigh Bailey

A Few PG13 Good People

5 mins Stars Keian Conti, Yvette Picque, Peter Hennigan

EN

EN

IR CCEN

A Date for Mad Mary

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5 mins Stars Tristan Heanue

PG13

Date: Time

PG13

16 mins Stars Mark Griffin, Erica Murray, Myles Breen EN

Galway Street Club 20 mins

EN

PG13

Keeping the Faith

PG13

The Bloody Irish

PG13

The Hit Producer

PG13

6 mins Stars Brendan Quinn, Louise Brown

76 mins Stars Malcolm Sinclair, Lorcan Cranitch

107 mins Stars Michelle Doherty, Neill Fleming, Fergus Kealy

EN

EN

EN

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o

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j

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Bar & Restaurant ‘Home of the Irish Coffee’

Kennedy’s established in 1850, has long since maintained an honourable standing amongst the elite of Dublin’s watering holes.

Located on the doorsteps of Trinity college and Merrion Square.

It was once a grocery shop where a young Oscar Wilde earned his first shillings stacking shelves.

Serving Irish Classic in terms of food and a Live Trad Session on Sunday, call into Kennedy’s where you are guaranteed a friendly hospitable atmosphere as well as attentive service.

30-32 Westland Row, Dublin 2 - kennedysbar1850@gmail.com - 00353 01 679 9077

Private party bookings are welcome for our unique, historical rooms

Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes.

Business

Balancing Act

This month Bloomberg‘s Balancing Act: A Conversation With Richard Branson and Sheryl Sandberg sees the Virgin Group founder and Facebook Chief Operating Officer sit down with host Emily Chang.

In First Class, Susan Li travels to London to take a look at how those with an unlimited budget and time to kill spend their time there.

Euronews bring us Sci-Tech/Futuris/Space, delivering the latest news about the leading scientific and technological research projects in Europe and Business Planet/Business Line, containing current business and economics news.

Comedy

Documentary

Inside Lego at Christmas

Inside Lego at Christmas takes a peek behind the scenes as Lego gears up for the Christmas season. Truth and Power highlights the efforts being made by law enforcement to track the organisation Black Lives Matter set up by young activists.

Also available is the nature documentary Wild Seas of Ireland, giving us a look into the habitats and creatures found in the seas of Ireland. Living the Wildlife documents a pair of nesting great skuas in Inishark Island, off the coast of Connemara.

As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of Game of Thrones, The Night Of and Billions on offer, as well as episodes of Boardwalk Empire, Pretty Little Liars and Gotham.

Modern Family

Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate a new episode of multi award-winning comedy Veep. Also on board are episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Ballers and Fresh off The Boat.

Fashion Folk

Tech Toys 360 features a soundless motorbike and a breakthrough in bicycle design.

Fashion Folk contains interviews from the fashion runways of Paris, London, Barcelona, Copenhagen, and beyond. For fans of culture and art, Culturefox TV offers a guide to Irish culture and events, whilst Royals and Animals: Til Death Do Us Part documents the relationship between the Windsors and their animals.

Sport

Drama

Kids

Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a culture defining series. Now, with five consecutive Emmy Awards for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family continues with Season 6.

Lifestyle

Rolling with the Ronks

Kids will surely enjoy Doodle‘s House, in which the squiggles of Peck and Lady Moomoo magically come to life, or Pip Ahoy, a cartoon that follows the adventures of a young pup called Pip. Also onboard are episodes of Rolling with the Ronks and the comical cartoon The Mad Cows.

MTB Insights

Soccer fans shouldn’t miss Football’s Greatest II, which profiles former French international Thierry Henry. MTB Insights offers a unique view into mountain biking, featuring bikers Antoine Bizet, Yannick Granieri and Thomas Lemoine. For those with a love of the waves, Wild Surf covers some of the world‘s largest global surfing events.

News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets

Game of Thrones SEASON 6 With a record-breaking 34 Emmy Awards to its name, the success of this popular HBO fantasy drama series has shown no signs of waning in 2016.

Viewers have been gripped by the violence, death, love, betrayal and loyalties that its characters bring to the table in their efforts to secure the coveted Iron Throne.

The series has been largely based on the plot of George RR Martin’s best-selling ‘A Song of

Ice and Fire‘ series, but having reached the plot of the latest novel at the end of season five, the writing team make a departure this time around basing their storylines on discussions they have had with Martin (who is also a producer on the show) instead.

This season will begin in the aftermath of some major upheavals at the end of the last series. Jon Snow is dead.

Cersei Lannister has fallen

from power and endured a shameful walk of atonement.

Arya Stark is blind and her sister Sansa has escaped the evil grasp of Ramsey Snow with her cousin Theon Greyjoy.

Queen of Dragons, Daenerys Targaryen finds herself alone and surrounded by a large group of Dothraki.

Expect much more engrossing drama to come in this outstanding series.

OUR TOP TV CHOICE Game of Thrones is a fantasy drama series chronicling the violent struggles amongst the realms noble families.

The Night of SEASON 1 One night in New York City, Pakistani-American student Nasir ‘Naz‘ Khan picks up a beautiful young woman called Andrea as he makes his way to a party in his father’s taxi cab.

Naz never makes it to the party and instead goes back to Andrea’s place, where following a night of drugs, alcohol and sex, he awakens to find her stabbed to death in bed with no recollection of what has happened.

This intriguing eight-part crime series delves into the

murder case that ensues, following the police investigation and legal proceedings and examining the criminal justice system and the purgatory of New York’s main jail complex, Rikers Island, where Naz awaits his trial.

Bill Camp who has also starred in the films 12 Years a Slave and Lawless plays veteran NYPD homicide detective, Dennis Box, who builds a compelling case against Naz, while John Turturro plays John Stone, the attorney in charge of defending Naz

who trawls NYPD precincts at night in search of clients.

The Night of is directed by the Oscar-winning writer of Schindler’s List, Steven Zaillian and this is his first TV series.

It is executive produced by Zaillian, Richard Price, Jane Tranter, Angie Stephensen and Peter Moffat.

The HBO series was filmed in and around Manhattan and is based on the BBC’s Criminal Justice, created by Peter Moffat.

The Night of is based on a complex New York City murder case with cultural and political overtones.

Billions SEASON 1 Set in the world of New York high finance, Billions is a complex and timely drama about the pursuit of an ambitious hedge fund manager by a ruthless US attorney.

Bobby ‘Axe‘ Axelrod is a self-made Wall Street billionaire played by Emmy award-winner Damian Lewis. He is a shrewd businessman who enjoys all the trappings of his success but never reveals his full hand to anybody.

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US attorney, Chuck Rhoades, played by another award-winning actor, Paul Giamatti, leads the fight against financial corruption in America.

He is the most powerful prosecutor in the land and has a string of successful insider trading cases behind him.

When Chuck gets a tip off that Bobby may be involved in some dodgy dealings, a showdown between these two strong-willed characters is inevitable as both men use their

power and influence in various attempts to outmaneuver each other.

Created by Brian Koppelman, David Levien and Andrew Ross Sorkin, Billions first aired in January 2016. It is loosely based on the activities of Preet Bharara, the US Attorney for the Southern District of New York, who gave the creators guidance on the mechanics of his office while they were researching for the show.

Billions is loosely based on a crusading US attorney who cracked down on financial crime.

food | drinks | sport | live music

Exclusive NYC Offer

2FOR1 MainCourse Main Course

simply show your aer lingus boarding pass on arrival at mcgettigan’s to avail of this offer! find us in nyc @ 70 west 36th street (between 5th & 6th ave), just 2 blocks from macy’s *valid for lunch & dinner at mcgettigan’s nyc only. expires: 28th february 2017. max one redemption per boarding pass.

uae | ireland | singapore | usa | uk

nyc36th@mcgettigans.com | www.mcgettigans.com

Do hen y & Nes bi t t 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Wecloming you home and wishing you a Happy New Year Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm

Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available

A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.

Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.

Voted overall

best pub in Ireland in the hospitality Ireland awards

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie

Radio On Demand

Our boarding music contains a number of contemporary Irish artists including Paddy Casey, Gavin James, Van Morrison, Bell X1, The Script, The Kanyu Tree, Kodaline, Kygo, George Murphy and many more.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

EASY LISTENING

INDIE

IRISH

KIDS

Fitzpatrick Hotels

TXFM‘s Indie Hits

Ceol na nGael

Irish Pulse Broadcast

An hour long compilation of songs that will suit any music taste. Brought to you by The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.

TXFM brings us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as Coldplay, Grimes and Blur.

A traditional music programme presented

by Seán Ó hÉanaigh.

Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.

This is a compilation of some of Ireland‘s best contemporary artists.

Listen out for Bressie, Kodaline and many more!

Late Date

Pop Charts

Timeless tracks, hidden gems and the best new Irish music. Join Cathal Murray, RTÉ Radio 1 for a selection of songs created specially for Aer Lingus.

Listen to a compilation of your favourite pop songs that have topped the charts in recent years.

The Eoghan McDermott Show Eoghan McDermott from 2FM Drivetime presents a special Aer Lingus show.

Expect laughs and a lively soundtrack!

The Greatest Hits of all Time – RTÉ Gold RTÉ Gold is an hour long show presented by Paul Moriarty and plays the greatest hits of all time from the 60’s to the 90’s.

Lyric FM: Classical Kids Join Ian McGlynn for a fun introduction to classical music including Prokofiev‘s Peter and the Wolf, music by a Brazilian Mozart.

POP

POP

ROCK

Top 20 Throwback Anthems

Radio Nova: Marty Miller

Barry Dunne counts down 98FM’s Top 20 Throwback Anthems as we hit rewind on the biggest tracks from the 1990s and 2000s.

60 mins of the greatest music ever recorded alongside chats with Roger Daltrey of The Who and Eric Bell of Thin Lizzy.

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TA L K R A D I O

The Louise McSharry Show Louise McSharry brings you a selection of brand new songs from emerging artists both from Ireland and around the world.

SPOTLIGHT

Documentary on One

Best of Moncrieff

In 1916, Thomas Manning left Ireland to work in the copper mines of Butte, Montana. However, just four years later, Thomas was shot and murdered.

Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues.

Tune in every weekday 1.30–4.30pm on Newstalk 106–108 FM.

Spotlight: Gavin James Listen as Gavin James introduces tracks off his spectacular debut album Bitter Pill.

Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

A LT E R N AT I V E

CL ASSIC AL

S P O T L I G H T: KO DA L I N E Kodaline have released their highly anticipated second album Coming up for Air. The Irish group have experimented more with their sound on this album and have created hits such as Honest and The One.

Mariah Carey

George Michael Older Johnny Cash Bitter Tears: Ballads of the American Indian Michael Jackson Off the Wall Mariah Carey Rainbow COUNTRY

Dolly Parton

Dolly Parton Pure & Simple Jake Owen American Love Jim Reeves Platinum & Gold Collection Maren Morris Hero

M E TA L

Soilwork

Amon Amarth Jomsviking Iron Maiden The Final Frontier Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Soilwork The Ride Majestic

Karmin

Aqualung 10 Futures Chairlift Moth Karmin Leo Rising Natalie Press Side by Side Pink Floyd Pulse (Live) Tall Heights Neptune

ELEC TRO

Netsky

Faithless Sunday 8 PM Fatboy Slim Palookaville Galleon So I Begin Netsky 3 Various Big Beats

OPER A

Leonard Bernstein

Leonard Bernstein– ACT01 West Side Story Paul Potts One Chance Various Opera‘s Legendary Performances Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets

Danny Elfman

Danny Elfman & Berlin Session Orchestra Rabbit & Rogue (Original Ballet Score) Lubomyr Melnyk Illirion Various Artists Barry Meets Beethoven IRISH

Celtic Thunder

Celtic Thunder Legacy, Vol 2 Damien Dempsey It‘s All Good – The Best of Damien Dempsey The High Kings Grace & Glory P OP

Britney Spears

Britney Spears Glory (Deluxe Version) Magic! Primary Colours Tom Odell Wrong Crowd (Deluxe) Various BBC Radio 2‘s Sounds of the 80s, Vol 2

Aer Lingus are proud supporters of Kodaline, flying the band across our European and North American network as they perform to sell-out audiences.

Exclusively to Aer Lingus guests, you can hear the guys give a track- by-track introduction to their latest album. Get to know the Dublin quartet and the stories behind their creative process and success!

JA Z Z

The Bad Plus

Branford Marsalis Quartet & Kurt Elling Upward Spiral The Bad Plus It‘s Hard Tony Bennett The Classics (Deluxe Edition)

RNB

Nao

Cadenza No Drama Fantasia The Definition Of...

Laura Mvula The Dreaming Room Nao For All We Know

KIDS

Burl Ives

Big Time Rush BTR Burl Ives Burl Ives Sings Little White Duck (and other Children‘s Favorites) Various Classic FM Music for Babies ROCK

Steve Vai

Cage the Elephant Tell Me I‘m Pretty Chevelle The North Corridor Fatherson Open Book Steve Vai Modern Primitive

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT

DUBLIN

Where are you flying to?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

AerClub Members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge.

You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

Passport Control and Security Screening

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

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Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

DUBLIN

Jack Daniel’s® Ribs

lj taste the bold in every bite jl St. Stephen’s Green • Temple Bar Blanchardstown • Dundrum • Liffey Valley • Swords • Belfast

www.fridays.ie

The trademark Jack Daniel’s is used under licence to TGI Friday’s Inc. All rights reserved.

Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us.

We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Staying connected on board* Mobile Network on board

With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

Flight Connections T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air.

Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode.

Ensure you switch off ‘flight safe‘ mode.

2 Connect

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

2 Aeromobile

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

3 Purchase Internet Access

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a full flight pass.

3 Welcome SMS

4 Payment

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

International roaming rates apply.

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

4 Connected

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

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Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

Wi-Fi on board in 6 steps

1 Switch on

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy!

W R NE WE ES LO R I C P

One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 Full flight pass €14.95 | $18.95 *A330 aircraft only.

MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie

NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Victoria Seattle

Duluth

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Salt Lake City

Omaha Denver

Reno

Oakland

San Francisco San Jose San Luis Obispo

Des Moines

St Louis

Louisville Nashville

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Los Angeles

Santa Barbara Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego

Fort Wayne Chicago

Springfield

Las Vegas

Memphis Little Rock

Phoenix

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Indianapolis Wichita

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Cedar Rapids

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Akron Canton

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Albany

Hartford

Newark

Columbus Harrisburg

Dayton

Halifax

Burlington Syracuse

Cincinnati

Washington (Dulles)

Providence

Portland ME

Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore

Washington (National)

Lexington

Greensboro

Knoxville

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

Savannah Austin

Houston

San Antonio

New Orleans

Jacksonville

Orlando Tampa

Aer Lingus European and North American Network

Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami

Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)

Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)

Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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San Juan Aguadilla

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America.

You can travel from Dublin direct to nine US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

Ponce

Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands

Isle of Man

Knock

Liverpool

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Amsterdam

Berlin

Warsaw

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff

London (Gatwick)

Dusseldorf

Southampton

Exeter

Newquay

Hamburg

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva

(Malpensa)

Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Milan

(Linate)

Nice

Montpellier Perpignan

Verona Bologna Pula Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Porto

Venice

Milan

Lyon

Naples

Madrid

Alicante Murcia

Athens Catania

Malaga Faro

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your ight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Izmir

Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book ights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi.

Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

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Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Johannesburg

Cape Town

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating.

Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.

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U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

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MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

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Hair can become dry and brittle in frosty air and artificial heating.

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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | MASSACHUSETTS

BLAZING SADDLES Dubliner John Fearon joins 6,000 cyclists in Boston to raise money for charity. here is nothing to match it: a 310-kilometre bike ride like no other.

The two-day PanMass Challenge (PMC) is held near Boston on the first weekend of August each year, when the 6,000 or so cyclists who take part raise more than $45 million for the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute.

The original, longest and most popular route is from Sturbridge to Bourne on Saturday, followed by a cycle up the Cape to Provincetown on Sunday.

I had organised a Galway-toDublin charity cycle for St Patrick’s Hospital ten years ago and one of the American participants had enthused about the PMC. I vowed to do it some day and, finally, on the 25th anniversary of my father’s death from cancer, I took it on.

My dad was a New York-born American citizen and my aunt and uncle, Irene and Richie, live in Boston. I was always a cyclist but getting fit again at 60 years of age took some effort. Starting in March, I built up to doing 200 kilometres a day – climbing 1,500 metres – for a minimum of three days per week.

At the formal launch event I was acknowledged by PMC as the only Irish participant. I was certainly the only one on the Sturbridge to Provincetown route; however, I met two guys who flew over to do the slightly shorter option from Wellesley.

With a few final encouraging words from Billy Starr, the event’s founder, the race gets underway at dawn. Even at this early hour, hundreds of supporters line the highway. All cheer, some ring bells, some hold up signs saying “I’m a survivor – thank you for what you are doing”.

On the first day everyone wears their official PMC jersey. Streaming our way through the Massachusetts

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countryside, we make a colourful, joyful procession. Where the going gets tough, local residents have put out encouraging signs and, as the day warms up, they offer bottled water or welcome, cool sprays from their garden hoses. Along one leafy lane, not one but two bands play rousing tunes.

Regular feeding stations cater to the cyclists and the banter along the way is fantastic. Many have great stories behind their involvement.

More than 1,000 have made this journey each year for over 30 years – that’s dedication. Some are here as living proof that cancer has not beaten them – that’s inspiration.

The atmosphere on the Sunday is even friendlier. Most participants sport a team jersey and are somehow more relaxed. Perhaps 130 kilometres seems less daunting, having done 180. Each food stop seems to offer a

Clockwise from above, John Fearon raises the crossbar; PMC colours in formation; the end of the road; encouragement along the way.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination?

Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 500 words with a portrait shot of yourself.

The editor’s decision is final.

bonus: ice-cold towels at one, misting stations at another and an ice seat at a third, even a quick massage. The crowds, the music, the cheering have all increased.

I’ve donned my “Team Ireland” jersey for the day and the regular shouts of “Go Ireland!” keep me spinning along. Suddenly Provincetown is reached with a “Well done, see you next year!” cheer at the finish. Then a shower, a meal and the ferry back to Boston.

Brilliant.

Registration opens at pmc.org in January and Billy Starr hopes that there will be more Irish participants. You?

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Great little things about Ireland

no. 17

The smell of a real turf fire

If you’re thinking about moving, contact us. Our specialist team are available at a time that suits you – online, email, on Facetime or Skype – and our phone team are available 24/7.

We can take care of the little things, like setting up your bank account before you arrive, giving you mortgage approval in principle and helping you make the most of any foreign exchange transfers.

We’re ready when you are.

+353 1 250 0346 boi.com/comingtoireland Lending criteria, terms and conditions apply. Personal Current Account and/or 365 online Terms and Conditions may apply. Bank of Ireland is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland