Cara December 2015/January 2016

December 2015/January 2016 CARA Magazine December 2015/January 2016 Gabriel Byrne Irish Distillers Ireland’s Ancient East Geneva

Unusual

Boston Los Angeles

SUSPECT

ACTOR GABRIEL BYRNE AN IRISHMAN IN NEW YORK

Winter Wonders

Time Travels

Opera Houses

Ireland’s Ancient East

Cool Beantown

Boston’s Best Bits

Düsseldorf

Quality Time

Clocking in to Geneva

Murcia

Star Spangled

Los Angeles Up Close

KINDRED SPIRITS THE NEW BREED OF IRISH DISTILLERS COMPLIMENTARY COPY

WELCOME TO IRELAND FROM AIB CORPORATE BANKING

Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248

Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219

Ireland’s No.1 Bank for Inward Investment.

AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland. As the leading Inward Investment bank, we land more international business than any other, and we’ve helped some of the world’s most recognisable brands thrive. To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.

Source: AIB has the largest market share of day to day banking relationships amongst foreign direct investment companies, Ipsos MRBI AIB Foreign Direct Investment Research, February 2014.

Allied Irish Bank, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.

CONTENTS DECEMBER 2015/JANUARY 2016

Check in 08 ARRIVALS Welcoming smart fliers at Dublin’s Terminal 2 11

CHECK IN What’s worth your attention this season

22 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Around the world with actress Yasmine Akram 24 WEEKENDER Ingmar Kiang ferries us ‘cross the Mersey 26 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s best reads plus a chat with author Louise O’Neill 28 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins on Pisa’s top attractions 30 SEASONAL CHEER Sheila Wayman selects the best for family fun 32

NEW WAVE OF MUSIC Bryan O’Hanlon uploads the perfect Irish playlist

70 Beguiling Boston

42 Kindred Spirits

34 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO MURCIA Brendan Bonass shows us around

Features 36 BACK TO THE BOARDS Gabriel Byrne opens up to Tony Clayton-Lea 42 SMELLS LIKE TEAM SPIRIT Adam Hyland toasts Irish distilleries

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50 EASTERN PROMISE Part I of Pól Ó Conghaile’s ancient Irish odyssey 60 CLOCKWORK CITY Fionn Davenport spends time in Geneva 70

MASS APPEAL Lucy White’s Boston beat

88 GOLD RUSH Life in Los Angeles with Ross McDonagh

88 LA Magic

Behind the Times

Regulars

Business

98 5 BEST WINTER WONDERS Catherine Murphy’s seasonal winners

116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Paul Carty from Dublin’s Guinness Storehouse

106 48 HOURS IN HARTFORD Plugging into Connecticut

118 TRAVEL HOT LIST Smart travelling take-ons and check-outs

125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Smart flying information and entertainment

120 SLEEPS & EATS Niamh Wade is in an empire state of mind

80 YOU SAY, WE SAY Our favourite opera houses

152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Dr David Harrowfield on the trail of Tom Crean

109 BUSINESS & LIFE Ingmar Kiang drops in on Düsseldorf

122 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT David Walsh of Merrion Vaults reveals his winning combination

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CONTRIBUTORS

T MATT MARRIOT

EDITORIAL Editor Jessie Collins Acting Editor Lucy White Acting Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Niamh Wade Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Eleanor Costello, Bryan O’Hanlon, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Ingmar Kiang, Des Moriarty, Catherine Murphy, Sheila Wayman Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Sales & Partnership Director Rhona McAuliffe +353 (0)1 271 9634; rhona.mcauliffe@image.ie Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Deirdre Purcell, +353 (0)1 271 9615; deirdre.purcell@image.ie Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Assistant Accountant Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett

Born and bred in Dublin where he worked as senior reporter for the late Metro Herald, Ross McDonagh left for Los Angeles three years ago where he married a Californian girl, interviewed every celebrity he could find, and now serves as showbiz reporter for DailyMail. com. He and his wife live in Baldwin Hills with their three and one-year-old Mexican-Filipino-Irish-American sons, Esteban and Salvador. Check out his LA story for Cara on page 88.

Illustrator Fatti Burke loves mapmaking and travel. Originally from Waterford, she lives in Dublin city where she likes nothing more than discovering the sights around her. She has been juggling a combination of commercial, editorial and commissioned pieces since 2012 – including many a map for Cara, including a cheery one on page 28. She has just released her first children’s book Irelandopedia (Gill & Macmillan, €24.99) with her father, John Burke.

Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Laura George Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Robert Power, Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

Having started out in publishing, Adam Hyland has for almost 15 years combined working as an editor for book publishers, newspapers and online media with writing features. Though covering a broad range of subjects, he specialises in travel and whiskey, preferably at the same time (see page 42), and has written on diverse subjects from distilling pisco in Peru to Buddha caves in Burma and whale watching around Iceland, always with a sense of wonder. He lives in Dublin.

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie.

Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

December 2015/January 2016

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

Unusual

SUSPECT

ON THE COVER

ACTOR GABRIEL BYRNE AN IRISHMAN IN NEW YORK

Time Travels

Ireland’s Ancient East

IMAGE Publications Ltd – PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL CORINNÉ VAUGHAN ON +353 (0)1 271 9622 OR EMAIL CORINNE.VAUGHAN@IMAGE.IE

Cool Beantown Boston’s Best Bits

Quality Time

Clocking in to Geneva

Star Spangled

Los Angeles Up Close

KINDRED SPIRITS THE NEW BREED OF IRISH DISTILLERS COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Gabriel Byrne photographed by Rich Gilligan on location at the Irish Arts Center, New York City.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free ay aw e zin ga ma s thi take ey. rn jou rd wa on for your e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine

CARA Magazine December 2015/January 2016

WELCOME ABOARD

Keith Butler from Aer Lingus, introduces our new 2016 routes, while sharing his excitement about the re-launched loyalty programme AerClub.

elcome to the December 2015/January 2016 issue of Cara, your complimentary in-flight travel magazine.

As we come to the end of 2015 – we reflect on the year and many of the highlights and changes it has brought.

Aer Lingus rose to embrace exciting new heights through new partnerships and expansion – and as we move into 2016, I am personally delighted to see that we continue to embark on exciting new departures, together.

2016 is a very special year for the airline as we will celebrate our 80th anniversary. We look forward to celebrating the milestone with you, our loyal customers. We know that by choosing Aer Lingus you expect more: better customer service, enhanced booking capabilities, increased choice and a smarter travel experience.

Aer Lingus has been connecting Ireland to the world for almost eight decades and, like you, we like to think of ourselves as having a unique connection to Ireland, while living an increasingly international life – but we aren’t just the airline of choice for the well-travelled Irish, but for Smart Travellers across our entire network. And we hope that you will allow us to continue to exceed your expectations into the future.

Some of the changes we are introducing in 2016 are very exciting.

There will be a major long-haul expansion with the addition of three new US routes: Newark, New Jersey; Hartford, Connecticut; and Los Angeles, California – the single largest expansion of our transatlantic network since the airline commenced transatlantic flying in 1958.

The new routes will not only connect Ireland with three important new US

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destinations, they will also connect a range of UK and European cities too.

Transatlantic-bound fliers from Paris, London, Amsterdam, Rome, Manchester, Edinburgh and many other European cities will now be able to choose Aer Lingus for these new US destinations.

In 2016, we will also bring you even more choices for summer sun. With the addition of more than 250,000 extra seats to warm, sunny climes; places like Málaga, Alicante, Palma de Mallorca, Faro, Barcelona, Lanzarote, Lisbon and Bilbao, are destinations we can all look forward to visiting for a well-deserved break in the sun.

There are also ten French destinations being served with a new service to Montpellier, including additional flights to Perpignan now extended from late April to October. There’s our new, thrice-weekly service to beautiful Pisa, the gateway to Tuscany. Thriving Belfast also gets a serious look-in. There will be 100,000 additional seats to the sun with five services per week to Alicante starting on April 29, 2016 and more flights to Palma, Faro and Málaga each week.

We’ve also added sunny Murcia to our choice of Spanish destinations available from Dublin.

We also want to share these successes with you too by re-launching and expanding our loyalty programme.

AerClub is the first Irish airline rewards programme to give its members the opportunity to collect points by booking flights on Aer Lingus and selected air partners, but also on non-air purchases from a huge range of quality brands including retail, hotels and car hire, across Ireland, Europe and North America. The AerClub programme launches in spring 2016.

New arrivals, new departures; the end of one year and the beginning of another, an eventful 2015, and how exciting 2016 is already beginning to look. Thank you for making the smart choice today and we look forward to flying with you through 2016.

Keith Butler Chief Commercial Officer, Aer Lingus Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

LOYALTY PROGRAMME RE-LAUNCH AerClub will replace Aer Lingus’ Gold Circle frequent flyer programme in spring 2016. Gold Circle Club members will continue to enjoy all the great benefits of membership until the new scheme comes into place.

SOAK UP THE SUN More flights and new locations – 250,000 additional seats to popular holiday destinations as part of the 2016 summer schedule from Dublin, Cork, Belfast and Shannon.

NEW TRANSATLANTIC ROUTES Major long-haul expansion in 2016 with the addition of three new US routes: Newark, New Jersey; Hartford, Connecticut; and Los Angeles, California. Visit aerlingus.com for more details.

WHO? Áine and Keith O’Neill FLYING IN FROM ... Orlando KEITH SAYS … “We’re home after an amazing cruise and trip to Disneyland.

We can’t wait for some Irish stew and a cup of Lyons tea!”

WHO? Marlee Huber FLYING IN FROM ...

New York MARLEE SAYS … “I’m from Everett, Washington, where the Boeings are made, and am here for a creative tour of Ireland with poets, photographers and musicians. We hope to make a coffee table book for people to buy.”

WHO? Dirkjann Spilt FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam DIRKJANN SAYS …

“I’m off to Tralee, Co Kerry, to study tourism for five months. I’ll try to travel around the country as much as I can while I’m here too.”

ARRIVALS

Travelling twosomes and solo sightseers – Cara was at Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2 to meet them.

WHO? Dan and Lavina Kenny FLYING IN FROM ... Orlando via London Gatwick LAVINA SAYS … “We’re returning from our honeymoon cruise around Haiti, the Cayman Islands, Mexico and Jamaica. Now it’s back to Offaly and our two youngsters.”

WORDS BY NIAMH WADE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? Lorraine Chapman FLYING IN FROM ... Birmingham LORRAINE SAYS …

“My cousin is getting married in Cavan so I’ll be hanging out with friends and family for a few days.”

WHO? Gilson Morgane and Mélanie Jaspar FLYING IN FROM ... Brussels MÉLANIE SAYS … “We’re off to stay in Trinity College for three days to explore Dublin.”

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WHO? Marcus Pescod and Deborah Picton FLYING IN FROM ... Bristol MARCUS SAYS …

“We have to work for three days in Dublin, but we’ll try to have a drink, or two, in Temple Bar while in town.”

WHO? Frances Zgolinski FLYING IN FROM ...

London Heathrow FRANCES SAYS … “I was visiting my sister in London as I’ve lived in Dublin for five years working for Google.”

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Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence. See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Take the time to enjoy our MAGICAL GARDENS.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9 - 6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie c

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Find out what’s on, where and when in December 2015/January 2016

SNEAK A PEAK

BLAISE DRUMMOND, ADVENT CITY, 2015/COURTESY OF GALERIE LOEVENBRUCK, PARIS © FABRICE GOUSSET

Issues concerning climate change are at the fore of the exhibition Et si on s’était trompé?

(What if we got it wrong?), which is transferring from the Centre Culturel Irlandais, Paris, to Ireland. Sixteen Irish artists responded to themes of geopolitics, biodiversity and industrialisation in different media, to coincide with the United Nations Climate Change Conference in November. The nationwide tour includes West Cork Arts Centre, Skibbereen (throughout December), FE McWilliam Gallery, Banbridge, Northern Ireland (February 12 to April 16) and Wexford Arts Centre, Wexford (from May). centreculturelirlandais.com

Check in Compiled by Eoin Higgins, Niamh Wade and Lucy White.

STAY

4 TOP DRAWER TOWNHOUSES Take time out at one of these smart city retreats ...

The Montague on the Gardens, London This

is a genteel, Georgian haven in swanky Bloomsbury, with dimmed lighting, a bountiful breakfast and impeccable service. Rooms evoke a time gone by, with repose and privacy guaranteed. And it’s just a short stroll from the British Museum, making it an ideal, high-end bolthole for culture vultures. B&B from £215. montaguehotel.com

The Cliff Townhouse, Dublin Expect Donegal

tweed blankets, sash windows and beautiful writing desks – a nod to Samuel Beckett who found inspiration during his stay in this house in the 20thcentury. Dine in its modern, fine dining restaurant or settle into the Oyster and Champagne Bar for an indulgent soirée. B&B from €190. theclifftownhouse.com

Eyre Square Townhouse, Galway Looking for a proper

céad míle fáilte? This central location is ideal to absorb the city’s fun atmosphere.

Large and impersonal this is not, with only ten ensuite bedrooms over two floors.

Custom-made furniture, free Wi-Fi and sumptuous bedding all add up to a very comfortable stay. Double rooms from €80. eyresquaretownhouse.com

The Pulitzer, Amsterdam The mighty

fine sleeping quarters of this restored former 17th- and 18th-century canal house come with a canal or garden view.

The property may be old but its decor is contemporary.

Take a tour on The Tourist – a 1920s-style, saloon boat exclusively for guests.

Double rooms from €299. pulitzeramsterdam.com

SPORT

Dublin Scores a Touchdown

On September 3, 2016, Dublin’s Aviva Stadium will be hosting the Aer Lingus College Football Classic, which pits Boston College Eagles against the Yellow Jackets of Georgia Tech. Aer Lingus is a title sponsor, for what promises to be an awesome sporting event. Further details and the option to sign up for exclusive game ticket pre-sale access at collegefootballireland.com/game-tickets.

Pretend you’ve seen some winter sun with TanOrganic, a natural streak-free tan that makes it easier to look more like a local than a pasty interloper. €16, and available to purchase on page 47 of Aer Lingus’ inflight magazine Boutique.

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WELLBEING

Fighting Fit De-stress with Masters Zheng and Jinlei Wang: Buddhist warriors who’ve temporarily swapped the calm of the Shaolin Temple in China for Monart Destination Spa, Co Wexford. Tai Chi, Kung Fu and Qi-Gong, lounging in the holistic spa and availing of an hour-long Shaolin Warrior Massage complete the perfect recharge package, which also includes two nights accommodation and a dinner. €299 pps, until December 13. monart.ie

www.keanes.ie

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MARKET FRESH Irish e-store, April and the Bear (aprilandthebear.com) pops up at hip Castle Market until December 24, with quirky soft furnishings, above, exclusive Irish art prints, homewares and alternative Christmas decorations. Also, Market Hub & BLOCK T (blockt.ie) host a Christmas Bazaar in Dublin’s Smithfield from December 4-6 – one of the biggest indoor Christmas markets in the country, it features pop-up cafés, bands, DJs and more than 100 stalls, making this as much a date in Dublin’s social diary as it is a great opportunity to support the city’s indie movers, makers and shakers.

DESIGN

POP INSIDE

LORENZO SECHI/CENTRO STUDI POLTRONOVA

SHOPPING

Pop Art Design at Chicago Museum of Contemporary Art this December 19, 2015 to March 27, 2016, is a riotous celebration of the best of Pop Art’s lesser-celebrated influence on the design of chairs, sofas, lamps and architecture during the culturally iconic 1960s and 1970s. Designers such as Charles Eames, George Nelson, Ettore Sottsass and Achille Castiglioni were just as plugged-in to the commercial buzz as their fine art peers and equally embraced the loud colours of advertising and the replication of mass consumption in their work. The exhibition is on in the Griffin Galleries on the museum’s fourth floor. mcachicago.org

CULTURE

JOHAN PERSSON

Project 50 Celebrating its 50th anniversary, Project Arts Centre – a vital incubator of creative talent in Dublin – has a whopper programme of events on the cards for 2016. Traditionally, the centre has been a pioneer of alternative ideas, helping to launch the careers of Liam Neeson, Gabriel Byrne (see our interview, page 36) and U2.

The theme of the celebrations is “Rebellion” ...

Artistic director Cian O’Brien explains: “As we think about Project Arts Centre and the role it plays in the cultural landscape, we must go back to our founding spirit – the bravery of the artists who stepped outside convention to take control of their own affairs.” Keep abreast of the spectacular plans for 2016 at projectartscentre.ie.

MUSICAL

Get into the holiday spirit and step back in time at Dublin’s Bord Gáis Energy Theatre for Mary Poppins (December 3 to January 9). Co-created by Cameron Mackintosh – famed for Phantom of the Opera and Les Mis – and Oscarwinning screenwriter Julian Fellowes of Downton Abbey, it’s no wonder this magical musical is, well, magic. Based on both the books by PL Travers and the Walt Disney film, there are new characters and songs, yet clapping along to favourites like A Spoonful of Sugar and Chim Chim Cher-ee is still a possibility.

Expect superb special effects, clever choreography and expert staging. Truly supercalifragilisticexpialidocious. bordgaisenergytheatre.ie 14 |

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ROS KAVANAG H

SUPER NANNY

New Managing Partner at Matheson Financial Times 2012-2015 Matheson is ranked in the FT’s top 10 European law firms 2015.

Matheson has also been commended by the FT for corporate law, finance law, dispute resolution and corporate strategy.

Irish Transfer Pricing Firm of the Year 2015

Matheson. The law firm of choice for international companies and financial institutions doing business in and through Ireland.

International Tax Review

European Law Firm of the Year 2015 Hedge Fund Journal

Contact Michael at michael.jackson@matheson.com, Liam at liam.quirke@matheson.com or your usual contact at Matheson.

Law Firm of the Year 2014 Irish Pensions Awards

Dublin

London

Matheson is pleased to announce the appointment of Michael Jackson (pictured left) as the firm’s new Managing Partner, effective 1 January 2016. Michael will succeed Liam Quirke (pictured right), who will become the firm’s Chairman in the new year.

New York

Palo Alto

www.matheson.com

Check in

FOOD

4 BEST SEASONAL STANDOUTS

VIRGINIE GARNIER

Chef Enda McEvoy, of the recently Michelin-starred Loam (loamgalway.com) in Galway, shares his favourite international restaurants that make the most of seasonal cooking.

Relae, Copenhagen Relae prides itself on its no-fuss, amazing food.

Quality comes first in the lessthan-plush neighbourhood of Jaegersborggade where, against the odds, chef Christian Puglisi has created a food community in inner-city Copenhagen. Don’t miss ... The trout, chicken skin and mushrooms dish. restaurant-relae.dk

London French Fancies PE

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Cheffy whispers around Covent Garden have it that Greg and Marie Marchand of the much gushed-about Parisian bistro Frenchie are about to lug a dram of their signature acidity to London this January. Insiders say that the London menu will reflect its Parisian sister, with simple yet precise dishes, above, influenced by Greg’s experience in kitchens from Gramercy Tavern to Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen.

Literally translated as “Happy Brothel” (le gasp!) although a more accurate translation would be “Jolly Mess”, Joyeux Bordel is pressing all the right buttons when it comes to impressing the London cocktaileratti. The Shoreditch bar is brimming with comforting promises of Buttered Old Fashions and a valve amplified sound system providing a luscious, warm soundtrack.

(147 Curtain Road, +44 759 988 5001; joyeuxbordel.com)

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Ox, Belfast Ox earned its first Michelin star this year. The menu is designed around the best seasonal produce and chef Stephen Toman has made vegetables the star attraction – wonderful textures and flavours make every dish a delight. Don’t miss ... Confit vegetables, pearl barley and mushroom foam. oxbelfast.com

MUSEUM BITES

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All in Good Taste Haute couture and calorific treats aren’t usual bedfellows – and yet Prêt-à-Portea high tea at The Berkeley hotel, Knightsbridge, London, is a match made in heaven.

Cue playful confections inspired by catwalk creations from the likes of Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Moschino and Simone Rocha. The Caramel Room, 1pm-5.30pm daily, from £45. the-berkeley.co.uk

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Lyle’s, London Clean, modern dishes where the best of British produce is presented simply, in a lovely pared-back room.

Head chef James Lowe has a firm understanding of seasonal produce and is at the top of his game. Don’t miss ... Pumpkin, whey butter and chestnuts – a perfect dish. lyleslondon.com

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That there wasn’t already a museum of its type was amazing in itself, yet, on different sides of the Atlantic – London and New York – last month, the race was on to open the world’s first food museum.

Between MOFAD (Museum of Food & Drink; mofad.org), Brooklyn and BmoF (British Museum of Food; bmof.org), there are now two to pick at – MOFAD being the more comprehensive offering to BmoF’s quirky individualism.

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Saison, San Francisco Expensive but amazing. “Saison” is a word that fittingly describes this restaurant in harmony with the seasons.

Chef Joshua Skenes changes the menu here on a daily basis, the emphasis on back-to-basics cooking; for example, vegetables cooked over an open flame. Don’t miss ... The tasting menu. saisonsf.com

DIASPORA

RICH GILLIGAN

“The lure of a full-time salary doing something that I love was too good to turn down”

TRADING PLACES Not just super-talented, Dublin-born photographer Noel Bowler is also tenacious; his new book Union (Kehrer Verlag, €48, available at noelbowler.com) took him to trade union offices in 14 countries over a four-year period. Noel has twice been nominated for the Prix Pictet Photography Prize in 2012 and 2015, his work exhibited across the globe. This year he moved to Ipswich in the UK, where he lectures in photography at University Campus Suffolk. compare between UK/Ireland? The UK has always been at the forefront, while Ireland struggled to give photography any real credibility. Thankfully the last ten years have seen a huge shift, thanks to institutions like the Gallery of Photography, The Library Project, PhotoIreland and Belfast School of Art. Ireland is now an exciting place for photography, with Irish photographers receiving global recognition.

Where in Ipswich do you spend your downtime? On my doorstep is Christchurch Park, 28 hectares of rolling lawns, arboreta, and Christchurch

Mansion (ipswich.gov.uk), which holds a public museum and art gallery and is home to Constable’s painting Salisbury Cathedral From the Meadows [until January 26, 2016] – not to be missed.

For food, At Twenty5 on St Nicholas Street – excellent value, atmosphere and service. For craft beers, it’s the Arcade Tavern (arcadetavern.co.uk), a gem of a bar.

Homecoming haunts? My first ports of call after family are usually the galleries: the Gallery of Photography, the RHA, IMMA, The Hugh Lane and the Library Project. For refreshments: Grogans.

PHOTORAPH BY RICH GILLIGAN

Describe Union. A photography-led narrative with an introductory essay

by Ken Grant. Defined by economic uncertainty, increased worker insecurity and the decline of traditional work practices, Union responds to how the institutions of organised labour have responded to the crisis of today.

Why did you move to the UK? The lure of a full-time salary doing something that I love was too good to turn down.

I’d like to think this hasn’t changed my peripatetic ways too much, just forced me to become more organised.

How does photographic culture

AERLINGUS.COM |

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Wish you were here

Based in the Netherlands’ Arnhem, communications consultant Erik van Cuyk took this atmospheric shot in Connemara National Park last spring. “As a family man, it’s not always easy to grab my moments, but for this shot I woke up at 5am, slipped out of Ballynahinch Castle Hotel and experienced the Irish sunrise, taking roads that only sheep consider to go. At one with nature, at one with the moment ...

I will never forget it. One hundred per cent happiness!”

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Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the February/March issue.

The technicals: Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and please include up to 100 words about you and the story behind the shot. The editor’s decision is final.

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Enjoy REDBREAST Sensibly. Visit

Those in the know, know Redbreast.

Alcohol

DISCOVER THE ORIGINAL IRISH WHISKEY

There was a time when Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey was the world’s favourite. For over a century, it defined the very essence of Irish Whiskey. Its complex, full flavours and lingering taste flowing from Dublin to London to New York. However, history was unkind and single pot still Irish whiskeys all but disappeared from view. New fashions came yet the devoted distiller men in Midleton kept the flame alive.

Thanks to them, you can now rediscover the original whiskey for yourself.

Alcohol

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MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK YASMINE AKRAM is a London-based Irish actor and writer best known for playing Janine in BBC1 series Sherlock, the Christmas special of which airs this season.

Other TV credits include recent thriller Unforgotten (ITV), Asylum (BBC4) and The Centre (RTE2). She also co-wrote and starred in BBC Radio 4’s comedy, Irish Micks and Legends. Here, she shares her traveller’s tales with Eleanor Costello.

EMMA BULLIVANT

DREAM HOLIDAY? Jumby Bay, off the coast of Antigua. It’s an island paradise, but it seems that you can only go there if you are mega rich. If I marry a footballer (which I’m 100 per cent positive will happen), we will honeymoon there.

CHILDHOOD HOLIDAYS CONSISTED OF … Pony camp.

I wanted to be an Olympic showjumper when I was a kid and every spare moment, from the ages of seven to 14, was spent on the back of a horse.

Back then, the smell of horse manure and saddle wax was my idea of Jumby Bay.

TOMORROW I WOULD MOVE TO … Montepulciano, Italy. Amazing views, and a whole street that smells of cheese.

Why wouldn’t you live there?

THE MOST EXOTIC PLACE I’VE VISITED IS … Sharjah, United Arab Emirates – I was born there. That’s pretty exotic.

I don’t remember anything about it because we moved back to my mother’s native Ireland when I was 18 months old. To Drogheda, Co Louth.

I’M A NOMAD. We emigrated a couple of times when I was a kid. So we lived in Canada and also Denmark. Only for a few months at a time but I have very strong memories of both places. We always came back to Drogheda … thus proving its exotic lure.

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AL HIGGIN S

IDEAL TRAVEL COMPANION? Anyone who likes doing very little on holidays.

I can’t stand organised fun or someone who’s got a schedule. I like to stroll about, have multiple coffee breaks and if we don’t get to see a tourist attraction, no sweat. We’ll come again another time.

FAVOURITE RECENT BREAK? Tuscany.

Seven whole days of the most amazing scenery, food and wine I’ve ever had. And the people were so incredible.

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GO SMART | LIVERPOOL

Day Tripping

Liverpool fan Ingmar Kiang celebrates a re-branded city that hasn’t lost its soul.

I

first visited Liverpool in the dark days of the 1980s when everyone was broke and the place was in

bits. I loved it.

Returning 30 years later, I find the city still has a feel and a pace with which any Irish person can easily identify. The locals (most of whom have Irish ancestry) are as friendly and talkative as ever – any simple inquiry quickly becomes a conversation – and everything is done with an unpretentious charm.

As I wait for the ferry across the Mersey, the boat docks in with the Gerry and the Pacemakers’ Scouse anthem blasting from its speakers, without a trace of irony.

The ferry itself, once just a commuter link from Liverpool to the Wirral, today caters mainly to tourists, symbolising the city’s transformation from post-industrial black spot to family-friendly leisure destination. The process began with the redevelopment of the Albert Dock, which is now the UK’s most popular, multi-use attraction outside London, with more than four million visitors per year.

The waterside location offers plenty of fresh air and space for the crowds that pack into the Beatles

Story, Museum of Liverpool and the Tate Liverpool. And when the sun goes down, there’s a pleasant evening to be had in a variety of restaurants and bars.

Revellers looking to make a night of it then head to the pubs and clubs of Matthew Street, where at weekends “they’re at it ’til eight in the morning,” says my taxi driver.

It’s not all craziness and carousing though – with numerous galleries and theatres there’s plenty for the culture vulture too. “We can be quite posh when we want to be,” the same driver informs me, as he suggests a visit to the city’s two cathedrals. Both are huge and hugely impressive structures, even for the not particularly religious; the Anglican one’s traditional solidity contrasts with the Metropolitan’s 1970s styling.

Between the two cathedrals lies the Cultural Quarter, a slew of colleges, theatres and chic-butaffordable restaurants in preserved buildings, ending at the Everyman Theatre. Its renovation won the 2014 RIBA Stirling prize for architecture, beating heavyweight contenders such as London’s Aquatics Centre and The Shard.

Speaking of architecture, nearly all Liverpool’s old buildings survived

It’s not a ferry, and it’s not the Mersey – but it is Liverpool’s Albert Dock.

the war and now provide a resource few other English cities can match, particularly for fans of Art Deco.

On the short flight home, I realise I’ve missed out on Chinatown, Sefton Park Palm House, the Walker Art Gallery, the Magical Mystery Tour and more ... there’s still plenty to see.

My visit was all too short: I was a Day Tripper, yeah, but I’ll Get Back soon ...

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LIVERPOOL up to three flights per day, offering onward connections to ten Aer Lingus North American routes with the benefit of US pre-clearance and customs at Dublin Airpor t.

3 MORE MERSEYSIDE MUST-VISITS

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Philharmonic Dining Rooms Housed in a Grade II listed building with a beautiful Art Nouveau entrance, the Phil is the sort of place where you pop in for lunch, then leave at closing time, having succumbed to its oakpanelled, leather-upholstery and the gent’s marbled loos.

(36 Hope Street, +44 151 707 2837; nicholsonspubs.co.uk)

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Anfield Tour Given the invariably sold-out match days and a 20-year waiting list for season tickets, a stadium tour is a decent consolation prize for the avid Liverpool supporter.

It’s well worth the trip, with enthusiastic and knowledgeable guides ensuring you’ll never walk alone. (Anfield Road, +44 151 260 6677; liverpoolfc.com)

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Fraiche The region’s only holder of a Michelin star, in 2014 Fraiche was rated best restaurant in the UK by the Sunday Times. The place is tiny, with chef/ owner Marc Wilkinson and just three other staff serving around ten diners nightly, each of whom will have booked months in advance.

(11 Rose Mount, Oxton, Wirral, +44 151 652 2914; restaurantfraiche.com)

You can drink Guinness the world over.

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Guinness Storehouse, St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8. www.guinness-storehouse.com Discounts available online.*

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican investigates a rediscovered stained glass artist, and meets breakthrough author Louise O’Neill.

BEHIND THE LINES CORK AUTHOR LOUISE O’NEILL

WILHELMINA GEDDES, LIFE AND WORK

BY NICOLA GORDON BOWE (FOUR COURTS PRESS, €50)

An Túr Gloine (Tower of Glass), the cooperative studio for stained glass founded in Dublin in 1901, is famous for incubating Harry Clarke, Sarah Purser, and Evie Hone, but it was another member, the Ulster artist Wilhelmina Geddes who was called on her death in 1955 “the greatest stained glass artist of our time.” Despite this posthumous accolade, Geddes remains largely unknown. Until now: Harry Clarke’s biographer, Nicola Gordon Bowe, has produced the first study of her life and achievement in this meticulously researched book, complete with sumptuous illustrations, including “St Kerog and the Children of Lir,” above.

WHAT IS ASKING FOR IT ABOUT? It’s about an 18-year-old girl, Emma O’Donovan, who has the world at her feet until one night, she decides to go to a party. After drinking and taking drugs, she passes out, to regain consciousness on the front porch of her house with no recollection of how she got there. Within days, photos emerge on social media ... It’s a book about rape culture, victim blaming, and the policing of female sexuality in the digital age.

IS BALLINATOOM BASED ON ANYWHERE YOU KNOW? Ballinatoom is physically similar to my home town, Clonakilty in West Cork but Ballinatoom, and all the inhabitants, are works of fiction. I wanted to create a place that was beautiful but claustrophobic, which is why I named it “Town of the Tomb”. The people who live there were born there, raised there, and will most likely die there as well. Place is hugely important when I’m writing and Ballinatoom is almost like another character in the novel.

WHERE DID YOU WRITE MOST OF THE BOOK? I sit at my desk, my dog in my lap, and create worlds.

BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON A JOURNEY? One that’s compulsively readable while still being beautifully written.

David Mitchell, Margaret Atwood, and Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie excel at this. ... AND THE WORST? Any book that’s too short.

You have the time, make the most of it.

Asking For It (Quercus, €14) is out now. The rights to Louise’s debut novel Only Ever Yours have been bought

by Killer Content to develop a feature film and TV series. louiseoneillauthor.com.

TAKE 3 … IRISH COOK BOOKS THE VIRTUOUS TART

by Susan Jane White (Gill & Macmillan, €24.99) The woman who put the fun into virtuous eating has returned with “sinful but saintly recipes for sweets, treats and snacks”. Turns out you can have your cake and eat it as long as you substitute blackstrap molasses for sugar, almonds for wheat flour and raw cacao for milk chocolate.

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HOME: RECIPES FROM IRELAND by Trish Deseine (Hachette Cuisine, £19.99) After 25 years in France, Trish Deseine has come home – geographically and culinarily. Now dividing her time between Donegal, West Cork, and Languedoc, she has penned a love letter to kale, bacon and oats. There are more than 100 recipes from herself and her favourite Irish chefs, including Derek Creagh.

COAST: RECIPES FROM IRELAND’S WILD ATLANTIC WAY

by Rachel Allen (Harper Collins, £7.99) The chef leaves home in Cork and travels up the west coast via Connemara to Donegal, foraging for recipes – pan-fried brill with watercress butter, Irish gingerbread, gin, lemon and milk ice cream – and sharing her favourite places to stay as she goes.

GO SMART | PISA

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... to fall in love with Pisa. Eoin Higgins leans towards the best of the city.

FABULOUS FOLLIES Pisa’s leaning tower is only one of several architectural beauties at the Piazza dei Miracoli. The stately Pisa cathedral and the opulent baptistry complement the world’s most beautiful architectural failure, but perhaps more impressive is the sight of hundreds of tourists trying to create photographic optical illusions with the eponymous tower.

OUTSIDER ART Painted in 1989, Tuttomondo – street artist Keith Haring’s gift to the city – is a mural occupying the south wall of the church of St Anthony. One of the rare surviving instances of his street art outside New York City, it is gorgeously graphic. Meanwhile, beautiful inside and out, the fantastic (and free) Palazzo Blu museum (palazzoblu.org), is also a sight for sore eyes – check out the Toulouse-Lautrec exhibition, which runs until February 14, 2016.

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ILLUSTRATION BY FATTI BURKE

Good Reasons

TUSCAN GATEWAY As a base for exploring the surrounding countryside, Pisa is perfectly-appointed for daytrips into the painterly scenery for which Tuscany is famous. Drink in the surreal beauty of the landscape’s poplar copses, rustic farmhouses and undulating hills. Simultaneously, get stuck into the Tuscan food and wine scene – one of Italy’s regional greats.

WALK THE WALK Pisa is ideal for walking and joining a guided stroll is a good way to make the most of the city. From intriguing historical homes, such as Galileo’s, and the building where Shelley wrote his last poem, there are lovely lesserknown streets to ramble along and admire. For a list of tour guides, visit Pisa’s tourist board website pisaunicaterra.it.

SMART FLIERS CAFÉ CULTURE Pisans, like most other Italians, love to sit and chat outside. Drinking coffee, nibbling on antipasti while discussing love, life and whoever’s gracing the gossip pages that week is an attractive proposition.

An alfresco break is also a delicious opportunity for people-watching in this most attractive of cities.

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PISA – in the heartland of Tuscany, and one of nine Italian destinations – three times weekly starting Ma y 18, 2016. Flights are convenien tly timed to connect Aer Lin gus to New York, Boston and Ch icago.

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DUB HUB is a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight.

6 EASY STEPS FOR CONNECTING AT DUBLIN AIRPORT 1. Listen to on-board announcements – as you taxi towards your gate on arrival, listen out for any information that the flight crew may have. They sometimes detail flight or gate changes.

3. Use Dublin Airport’s free Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB on your mobile device. No data roaming charges, downloads or login required. DUB HUB is in English, Français, Italiano, Español, Deutsch and Gaeilge.

2. Do you have your boarding card? If not, proceed to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections desk where staff are on hand to help you with any queries.

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USE THE DUB HUB COMPANION MAP Smartphone or tablet users can access the free DUB HUB easy connecting companion as soon as you arrive in Dublin Airport. It’s powered by Google, and will show you the quickest, easiest route to your connecting flight. Remember to use free Dublin Airport Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB without using your mobile data or incurring roaming charges.

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Seasonal Cheer

From Santas to pantos, Sheila Wayman picks some festive family treats. lassical meets contemporary in a brand new venture bringing Christmas cheer to the streets of Dublin this year with the I Believe festival (ibelieveinchristmas.ie) in the dynamic IFSC. A 15-metre-high Christmas tree presides over a chaletstyle village of food, craft and horticultural stalls. For young visitors, storytelling and singing are woven into 40-minute Santa sessions.

There’s nothing new about a true Dublin curiosity, the Moving Crib in Parnell Square (stmartin.ie), but a viewing is a festive ritual for many before it’s packed away on January 10.

Down south, Waterford’s Winterval (winterval.ie) offers an abundance of family events, both free and ticketed, ranging from a live-animal crib to ice-skating and a vintage fair, until December 23.

Meanwhile, online forums have been buzzing with debate on where the most magical “Christmas experience” is to be found. Venues as diverse as Aillwee Cave (aillweecave.ie) in Co Clare, Causey Farm (causey.ie) in

Co Meath and Westport House (westporthouse.ie) in Co Mayo are up there. Even the HQ of Gaelic sport, Croke Park (crokepark.ie), pitches in for a slice of the Santa action.

At the North Pole Outpost (northpolecork.com), deep in the woods of Cuskinny near Cobh, Co Cork, children can enrol as elves-in-training during a 90-minute, immersive theatrical production, until December 23.

Meet Santa’s reindeer at the south Dublin Airfield Estate (airfield.ie) until December 22, where storytelling and a fairy trail, before seeing the man himself, are all part of the visit.

No Christmas season is complete without a trip to a pantomime, as theatres and parish halls alike

resound to shrieks of “He’s behind you!” Dublin’s Gaiety Theatre (gaietytheatre.ie) is the grande dame, having staged a panto every year since 1874: here, Little Red Riding Hood and the Big Bad Wolf runs until January 10. Jack’s beanstalk is sprouting at The Helix (thehelix.ie), until January 10, while Keith Duffy, of Boyzone fame, is Beauty’s uncle in Sleeping Beauty at University Concert Hall (uch.ie), Limerick, until January 3.

May McFetteridge is in her 26th year of panto in Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs at Belfast’s Grand Opera House (goh.co.uk), until January 10, while Beauty and the Beast can be seen at Cork Opera House (corkoperahouse.ie) right up to January 16.

THREE MORE FESTIVE FAVOURITES

1

Winter Wonderland, Hyde Park, London, until January 3 With its spectacular lights, Christmas markets, open-air skating rinks and family theatre galore, the entire English capital is a wonderland at this time of year. But for the fastest fix of festive spirit, go to Hyde Park in the capital, where a fantastical world carved out of real ice and snow is among the many highlights. hydeparkwinterwonderland.com 30 |

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NYF Dublin, December 30 to January 1 Celebrate the turn of the year at a spectacular, family-friendly Procession of Light through the streets of Dublin on December 31, from 4pm, followed by a Countdown Concert in College Green.

Then – if you’ve the gumption – kickstart your new year’s resolutions on Dame Street from noon on January 1, with rugby and GAA sports experiences for all ages, children’s games and a fun run. nyfdublin.com

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Snow sports in New York, selected December/January dates Board an early-morning bus in Manhattan and within two hours you can begin a day’s skiing or snowboarding on Hunter Mountain in the Catskills, where snow, natural or otherwise, is guaranteed.

Over 18s only but all abilities are catered to, equipment is provided and you’ll be back in the Big Apple by nightfall.

From approx €115. newyorkcity.uk

ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA McAREE

C

For gorgeous getaways…

Ireland’s Blue Book is a collection of Irish country house hotels, manor houses, castles and restaurants.

Located throughout the island of Ireland these charming and stylish hideaways are ideal for midweek escapes or weekend breaks.

Ireland’s Blue Book Gift Vouchers available www.irelandsbluebook.com / T +353 1 676 9914

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New Wave of Music Bryan O’Hanlon tips rising Irish talent to listen out for in 2016. nly one artist comes to mind for many when considering Irish music in 2015.

But while we don’t begrudge Hozier his umpteen million sales, a wider cast of bright young things have also been busy honing their craft. As we enter the year ahead here’s a closer look at some of those now vying for your attention ...

One act with something of a head-start is Girl Band. Taking residence firmly left of field, this Dublin lot specialise in abrasive vocals and malevolent guitars that together form a bewildering, intoxicating wall of sound. Having cut their teeth with several EPs and earned kudos for their raucous live shows, the recent release of debut album Holding Hands with Jamie is pushing the four-piece towards a much bigger audience. Garnering positive reviews and genuine buzz from the trend-setters in the UK and US, the album has also confirmed their status as one of the most intriguing home-grown bands in years. Their lack of polish won’t be for everyone’s palate but expect

O

their stock to rise in the new year.

Firmly rooted at the other end of the spectrum is I Have a Tribe – a slow-burning, solo venture from Dubliner Patrick O’Laoghaire.

In true singer-songwriter fashion there are lashings of deeply affected vocals as tales of love and woe play out over piano-led balladry. It may not sound original on paper but there’s a sincerity and delicate poignancy at work here that begs for your ears’ attention. Songs such as Monsoon and Lungs are wine-soaked ruminations from the heart, offering rare gems only unearthed by those

Clockwise from top, one-man band I Have a Tribe, Saint Sister, and Girl Band, all of whom are ones to watch in 2016.

in the throes of deep introspection. People fond of the quieter side of Villagers’ work will find much to enjoy here.

Barely a year since their genesis, duo Saint Sister are also impressing with their self-dubbed brand of “atmosfolk”. Souled-up vocals and RnB inflections breathe new life into a folk core and, with their debut EP Madrid pushing all the right buttons, a bright future beckons.

Elsewhere, Otherkin’s fledgling efforts are direct, radio friendly tunes that scream “hit” while Bitch Falcon are a straight-up, no messin’ rock outfit with bundles of vigour and not an ounce of pretence.

Of course, in a year’s time we’ll all most likely be hooked on someone else – but isn’t that the beauty of it all?

3 TUNEFUL CITY BREAKS

1

Temple Bar TradFest, Dublin, January 27-31 From humble beginnings this boutique arrangement of folk and trad talents has blossomed into a winter favourite that spans the whole city.

This year, the line-up will do its thing in some of the city’s most unique and historic landmarks, including St Patrick’s Cathedral and Dublin Castle. templebartrad.com

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NYC Winter Jazz Fest, New York, January 13-17 Established to give greater exposure to the jazz scene in New York and beyond, this is the little festival that keeps on growing. Last year, 6,500 attendees flocked to see 100 different groups perform across Greenwich Village – and an even bigger spectacle is promised for 2016. winterjazzfest.com

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Edinburgh’s Hogmanay Festival, December 30 to January 1 When it comes to ringing in the New Year, Edinburgh knows how to throw a party. Aside from its world-renowned fireworks display and revelry, Biffy Clyro will headline the flagship Princes Street Gardens gig, ably backed by fellow locals Idlewild and Honeyblood. edinburghshogmanay.com

Natural Orange & Yellow Diamonds Mounted on a Four Row Platinum Band from Cullen & Co Fine Jewellers 7 Castle Market (Drury Street) Dublin 2

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Murcia is also home to one of the world’s most renowned aerobatics teams – PATRULLA ÁGUILA (Eagle Patrol) from the Air Academy where King Felipe got his wings. Airshows are held intermittently throughout the year and the Eagle Patrol is quite the spectacle (especially when viewed from a sun lounger). patrullaaguila.com

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

Murcia

If you’re a golf fan, LA MANGA CLUB RESORT is worth a visit.

A five-star hotel with great restaurants, it has three excellent courses, including one designed by Seve Ballesteros.

(Urb. La Manga Club, 30389 Cartagena, +34 968 175 000; lamangaclub.es)

A top thing to do on a warm, blue-sky day is a tour to discover and taste some of Murcia’s more quaffable wines. Those from the JUMILLA (monterebro.com) and BULLAS (rvbullas.es/ rutadelvino) wineries are, quite rightly, highly respected around the world, in particular, the latter DO region; well-known for its Monastrell grape variety.

KATE HORGAN

Irish musician Brendan Bonass shares the Spanish region’s best bits.

MORE ABOUT BRENDAN A guitarist and songwriter, Brendan Bonass is in the band Stepaside, who have recently launched a new single, from their forthcoming album, entitled Black & White. He travels frequently to the Murcia region with his family, where he likes to soak up the culture playing with local musicians.

“For me, the region has it all: miles of beaches, great music festivals, wonderful food, some very decent wines, all that, and the region is steeped in Roman history.”

MAR MENOR (small sea) is the largest saltwater lagoon in Europe. It looks just like a Mediterranean beach, with white sand, but it has a secret weapon: it emulates the air temperature so that during the summer months, it is often up to five degrees warmer than in the Med.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MURCIA four times per week from March 27, 2016.

FUNDACÍON TEATRO

DON’T MISS

In 1988, builders discovered traces of a settlement thought to be constructed between the fifth and first century BC – including this Roman amphitheatre, now the MUSEO DE TEATRO ROMANO. (8 Calle San Miguel, +34 968 128 800; teatroromanocartagena.org)

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At the traditional CASA DEL RELOJ, start with black pudding and onion confit, followed by ox, cooked by you on a lava stone at your table. (1 Avenue del Dr Artero Guirao, 30740 San Pedro del Pinatar, +34 968 182 406; restaurantelacasadelreloj.com)

Founded by the Moors in 825, MURCIA CITY – a 50-minute coach ride from Mar Menor (latbus.com) – has had more than 500 years of Islamic architecture and influence. The city is overflowing with tapas bars and restaurants with some of the best food in Spain.

ARANS with ATTITUDE

BLARNEY ARAN ORIGINALS

available in all Blarney Woollen Mills stores and online @ blarney.com

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Irish identity is on the mind of actor Gabriel Byrne ahead of his upcoming Broadway turn. Here he reflects on his theatre and film work, and his burgeoning role with New York’s Irish Arts Center.

WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS RICH GILLIGAN

I

f within the landscape of Irish acting there is such an entity as an elder statesman, then that entity is Dubliner Gabriel Byrne. Think about it – from the 1980s, Byrne was the first contemporary Irish actor to advance beyond home-grown work in television and on stage. Indeed, from 1985 onwards – when he rose to prominence via the acclaimed British thriller, Defence of the Realm – Byrne has spent more than 30 years in the public eye. In films, he has veered from classic (Miller’s Crossing, 1990) and cult (The Usual Suspects, 1995) to adventure (The Man in the Iron Mask, 1998) and drama (Jindabyne, 2006). Factor in his acclaimed work in television (including In Treatment, 2008-2010; Secret State, 2012; Quirke, 2014), and his occasional forays into theatre (which continues in Eugene O’Neill’s Long Day’s Journey into Night on Broadway, which runs from March 31 to June 26; roundabouttheatre.org) and you have as rounded and accomplished an actor as you can get. In 2016, his new films include Louder than Bombs, Nobody Wants the Night, and Lies we Tell.

Yet Byrne is also an activist, particularly when it comes to Ireland; he may have lived in New York since 1988, but he says with no small pride in his voice that “I’ve always regarded myself as an Irish citizen who happens to live in New York, but who, like many immigrants, has to come to terms with that duality you feel when you’re from one place and you live in another”.

He is talking to Cara from the New York offices of the Irish Arts Center (almosthome2016.org). Founded in grass-roots fashion in AERLINGUS.COM |

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INTERVIEW

1972, to project and develop the evolving nature of Irish culture, the IAC is undergoing the most important changes in its history.

Plans are in almost giddy motion to develop and construct a new facility that will enhance the IAC’s impressive multi-disciplinary aesthetic and, as honorary chair of the organisation, Byrne is making sure that he is doing as much as he can to achieve its aim.

The IAC, he explains, has had a varied life. Even while under the capable leadership of screenwriter/ director Terry George and film director Jim Sheridan in the 1980s, “it really struggled for recognition – small plays, music nights. Nothing really that people could relate to as a cultural contribution.” Byrne points to the follow-up work by IAC’s executive director Aidan Connolly and vice chair Pauline Turley as the real starting point.

“When they took over the reins, they slowly but surely started to integrate the people who were emigrants with the people who were here. There was an artistic bridge built between Ireland and America, and that is becoming increasingly more solid as the years go by.

Now, you have people in Ireland who actually know about the IAC and who actively seek out the place as a centre of performance.

The awareness that the IAC is something not just desirable but necessary has spread among the Irish community here, as well as the Irish-American community.”

The nature of Irish-American identity (“what it means to be Irish, and Irish in America, and the conflict of that for people”) is something very close to Byrne’s heart. In the context of the IAC and his commitment to it, he says that his vision for it has been steadfastly “not just a cultural centre but also a social and business place, where ideas get exchanged and all kinds of possibilities are born. What struck me was that Irish identity in America was a fractured thing – there were different associations and societies. I thought they very rarely came together, so wouldn’t it be 38 |

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INTERVIEW

great to have somewhere people of all perspectives could interact with each other? That was the original vision I had for this place and that’s beginning to happen. I think it’s about time.”

With the move scheduled for “sometime” in 2016, (to a building built in 1916, an irony not lost on any Irish person) both Byrne and Connolly look towards it with pragmatic measures of optimism.

“It’s hard to project our level of pride and confidence,” Connolly told The New York Times, “simply because of the state of the facilities here.” With neither an elevator nor a café in situ, Byrne agrees.

“The building we’re in now is a bit ramshackle, and I suppose in some way the place did reflect our cultural presence here. The new building will reflect a new thinking about things.”

New ways of thinking are never far away from Gabriel Byrne. Newly remarried (to American producer Hannah Beth King; his first marriage, in 1988, was to American actress Ellen Barkin – they divorced in 1999), he continues to stretch parameters. At this point in his life – he will be 66 this coming May – does he have any objective sense of his career?

“My career never really had any shape,” he reflects, “because I’ve

“I’ve always gone where I wanted to go rather than following what other people told me I should do” always gone where I wanted to go, rather than following what other people told me I should do. That wasn’t anything rebellious – it was simply that I wanted to do what I wanted to do. Besides, you get to a stage in any career where you look at the realities of your life, so I’m much more concerned – and have been for quite some time – about the life I lead rather than the career.

“The career gives me satisfaction, of course, but the real battle for anybody is how you live your life, so it’s how my career fits in to that as opposed to the other way around. And it’s difficult to set yourself challenges when you get to a particular age, but going back to Broadway is a challenge. I’m nervous and a little bit tentative about the outcome. So that’s a challenge, but life itself is the big challenge, isn’t it?”

Byrne’s return to Broadway – co-starring with Jessica Lange and Michael Shannon – comes 11 years after starring in another of Eugene O’Neill’s works, A Touch of the Poet

(with a performance that won him the Outer Critics Circle Award for Outstanding Actor in a Play). He says that the continuity of O’Neill’s work really appeals to him.

“It’s deep, emotionally. It’s about family, dysfunction and what it meant to be Irish, yet his language is also universal and can make absolute sense anywhere. There’s a profundity to his work that you can never get to the bottom of, and it requires tremendous emotional and physical commitment to get through it.

“I remember at the end of the run of A Touch of the Poet – I don’t think I’ve ever been so exhausted.

Why would I do it again? I suppose we have a capacity to forget pain!”

There is more to it than that, however: Byrne likes being tested, and theatre provides precisely that in the areas of stamina, commitment, emotion, and – perhaps most difficult of all for any actor – how to convey naturalistic behaviour without the complementary benefit of a camera.

“Once you finish the performance, it’s over,” he says, “and that’s paradoxical because you can never actually own the performance. You can never get to a place where you can say that you know how to do it. Each night is a risk.”

GABRIEL BYRNE’S TOP 3 PERFORMANCES

1

Miller’s Crossing (1990) Joel and Ethan Coen’s third film is set during the Prohibition period and cleverly references 1930s gangster films as well as the era’s classic crime writing (notably Dashiell Hammett).

Astute film critic David Thomson described Byrne’s performance (as anti-hero Tom Reagan) as “not just his best film, but one of the best performances in American film”.

2

Jindabyne (2006) Not one of Byrne’s most viewed films, perhaps, but one of his best of recent years, this Australian drama (based on Raymond Carver’s 1977

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story, So Much Water So Close to Home) won several awards in its country of origin as well as generating more plaudits for the actor (“brilliant” – Austin Chronicle).

3

In Treatment (2008-2010) In which Byrne plays psychologist Dr Paul Weston, a man adept at advising his patients as to the best lifestyle decisions to make, but whose own neurotic behaviour also needs tending to. A multi-award–winning HBO drama (“hypnotic” – New York Times) throughout its three-season run, Byrne nabbed a Golden Globe Award for Best Lead Actor in a Drama Series.

PEOPLE | DISTILLERS

SMELLS LIKE

Team Spirit

The rise of Irish distillers that have gone against the grain has helped restore the liquor industry back to its former glory. We look at the proof.

WORDS ADAM HYLAND PHOTOGRAPHS STEVE RYAN

he indomitable Irish spirit is oft-mentioned as the country dusts itself off from the recession – and quite literally, as its liquor industry makes a dramatic comeback. Only two distilleries were left in operation by the 1970s, but now our flagship product, “uisce beatha”, has regained its place as the fastest growing spirit in the world. Artisan distillers are joining big brand companies in spreading the appeal of distinctly Irish tipples to a thriving new market.

Glendalough Distillery in Wicklow is just one example. Set up in 2011 by five friends “with a deep passion for reviving the heritage of craft distilling in Ireland”, the group started distilling a well-received poitín before turning their attention to a range of artisan whiskeys and botanical gins. Theirs is just one of many inspiring stories.

“Craft Irish gins are doing so well, many of them can’t keep up with

T

demand,” says Ally Alpine, owner of the Celtic Whiskey Shop on Dublin’s Dawson Street, and organiser of the evergrowing annual Whisky Live convention each October. “This year at the Irish Whiskey Awards there were 13 Irish gins competing – two years ago there was just one.”

Thirsty hipsters are dipping their whiskers at cocktail bars, tasting clubs and masterclasses. Meanwhile, the recently opened Irish Whiskey Museum, opposite Trinity College, has attracted overwhelming interest, and Dublin has, after once boasting a “golden triangle” of some 37 distilleries, seen its first operational distillery – Teeling – open in almost 40 years.

The big names (Kilbeggan, Jameson, Cooley) are also tearing up the rulebook and winning international awards while the Irish Whiskey Association forecasts a global market share growth of 300 per cent by 2030, with production set to rise by 41 per cent. Sláinte to that.

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The Family Man WHO? Jack Teeling, founder, distiller and MD of Teeling Whiskey.

WHAT? Small batch, single grain, single malt whiskeys, poitín.

Jack Teeling’s family is steeped in the heritage of Irish whiskey, a dynasty first started in 1782 in the heart of Dublin’s Liberties. After 15 years working with the innovative Cooley Distillery, Jack, above, founded the Teeling Whiskey Company in 2012 (teelingwhiskey.com), the first new distillery in Dublin for 125 years.

He and his brother Stephen have enjoyed unheralded success with a selection of handcrafted small batch whiskies, opening a visitor centre earlier this year which welcomed 10,000 visitors in just three months.

“It made sense to go back to where it first began,” Jack says. “The distillery is only the start of a long journey.

We hope it integrates itself into the fabric of Dublin culture and society.”

In its short life, Teeling Whiskey has already won more than 60 international awards, most recently Best Single Cask Single Malt Whiskey at this year’s Whiskey Awards while it also won for Best Poitín. He sees the expanding industry as catering for a modern generation seeking new tastes. “This is where we come in,” he says. “It’s Irish whiskey’s time to shine.”

The master distiller of Teeling Whiskey, Alex Chasko, taking it on the nose.

TRAVEL TIP Teelings is close to the magnificent Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin Castle and Trinity College, which houses the Book of Kells. It’s also conveniently close to the excellent Irish Whiskey Museum (irishwhiskeymuseum.ie).

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PEOPLE | DISTILLERS

The Powerhouse WHO? Brian Nation, master distiller at Irish Distillers.

WHAT? Jameson, Paddy, Powers, Redbreast, Green Spot, Yellow Spot, Midleton whiskeys.

Tasting a range of whiskeys every day sounds more of a perk than a job but for Brian Nation, at Midleton’s Irish Distillers, it’s a very serious business. He’s responsible for maintaining the quality of all new pot and grain products produced at the Cork distillery, including big brands such as Jameson, Powers and Redbreast.

An engineering graduate, Brian entered the world of Irish whiskey in 1997, and ten years later became a “master.” He sees the Midleton Distillery brands as “the gatekeepers of single pot still Irish whiskey.” The Redbreast 21 Year Old has won awards across the globe, including Best Overall Whiskey and Best Single Pot Whiskey at the Irish Whiskey Awards for the last two years. “We also need to continue to innovate and produce new whiskeys to stay current,” he says. These include Midleton Dair Ghaelach, Jameson Caskmates whiskey, and the new Powers Three Swallow Release, “a 21st-century take on traditional, pure pot still whiskey.”

TRAVEL TIP The Jameson Experience and Midleton Distillery tours (jamesonwhiskey.com) make for a perfect day. For further sustenance, Ballymaloe Cookery School is close by (cookingisfun.ie).

The Dram Queen WHO Áine O’Hora, head distiller at Boann Distillery.

WHAT Single malt, pot still and blended whiskeys, gin, vodka and poitín.

Galway-native Áine O’Hora is head distiller at the Boyne Valley’s Boann Distillery (boanndistillery.ie). Having cut her teeth as brewer at Australia’s Matilda Bay, she now helps lead the charge of Irish spirits, “using old traditions with new technology.” The last of 18 distilleries in Ireland’s historic heartland closed in 1962. But a €20 million investment means that this new distillery is set to produce 250,000 cases of whiskey and 100,000 of gin and vodka in the coming years. For Áine, local is best. “In the 1990s it was all about ‘the global village’ concept,” she says. “Local is king now. We source our grain and water from our local fertile lands, and the purity of these ingredients shines through. We use native botanicals sourced from the surrounding countryside to give our gin a distinct Irish flavour.” Áine enjoys a very hands-on approach to ensure that quality remains high: “One day I can be sitting with our consultant distiller discussing blending, the next, the wellies are on and I am looking at the cooling system. But when you invite people in to show them what you’re doing, I think that’s the best part.”

TRAVEL TIP The Boyne Valley is home to the 3,000-year-old Newgrange, a giant Neolithic tomb perfectly engineered to capture the first light of the winter solstice through a narrow passageway. newgrange.com 44 |

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DiD you know THE CHRISTMAS TREE Is Not aN IrIsh tradItIoN but a gerMaN oNe

wE STARTED uSinG THEM

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PEOPLE | DISTILLERS

The Southern Comforter WHO? Peter Mosley, co-director and distiller at Dingle Distillery.

WHAT? Small batch gin and vodka, with whiskey out next year.

“Distilleries are functional places. They’ve got to be. But the stills are like works of art. I love their elegance and their glow,” says Peter Mosley, head distiller at Dingle Distillery in Co Kerry. Since opening the pioneering Porterhouse Brewery in 1996, he “always had one eye on developing a distillery to produce small batch, highquality whiskey.” And three years on from starting the process “on a cold November night,” Dingle Whiskey is so close to being ready you can almost taste it. Eager customers have already been treated to the award-winning, small batch Dingle Gin, 46 |

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the first hand-crafted artisan gin in Ireland, and Dingle Vodka, Vodka of the Year at this year’s Whiskey Awards. In Ireland’s extreme south-west, Dingle’s location on the Gulf Stream lends itself to spirit production, the mild climate providing an even, steady maturation process. “Drinkers appreciate knowing the provenance of a product, where, how and by whom it was made,” Peter says, his enthusiasm extending to the imminent whiskey. “We’re quietly confident we will be pleased with what emerges from those casks.” He won’t be the only one.

TRAVEL TIP The Dingle Peninsula offers some 50 kilometres of beautiful coastal routes. Dingle village itself hosts Dick Mack’s pub on Greene Street, voted Best Whiskey Bar in Ireland this year.

The Double Act WHO? Fiona and David BoydArmstrong, founders and distillers at Rademon Estate Distillery/ Shortcross Gin. WHAT? Shortcross Gin, Irish malt whiskey (2018).

Newly married couples tend to make big plans, but for Fiona and David Boyd-Armstrong, theirs were a little out of the ordinary. Having been fascinated by what they saw as “the lost art of distilling in Ireland,” they decided to build a craft distillery. For two years they immersed themselves in research, visiting distilleries across the globe, “from industrial scale to those small enough to fit in your living room”. Fiona says that what really inspired them was “the sheer quality and passion craft distillers put into every bottle,” vital ingredients in their own award-winning Shortcross Gin. Their Co Down surroundings play an important part in their business.

“We wanted to showcase the best of locally foraged botanicals,” she says.

With their forests and gardens as a resource, 2018 will see an expected 100 barrels of a single malt whiskey, while a visitor centre is also on the cards. Despite the expansion, the Boyd-Armstrongs insist they will be keeping their craft ethos. “We’ll maintain total control – mashing, fermenting and distilling through to cask selection,” Fiona insists. “The focus should always be on quality.”

TRAVEL TIP Nearby Downpatrick Cathedral is said to be the resting place of St Patrick himself, while the ancient region boasts many ruins such as Inch Abbey and Quoile Castle, and stone circles at Ballynoe and Ballyalton Court Cairn.

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PEOPLE | DISTILLERS

The Northern Light WHO? Barbara Hughes, founder and distiller at Hughes Craft Distillery.

WHAT? RubyBlue Liqueur, RubyBlue Vodka.

Barbara Hughes has taken the long road to distilling.

She and her husband, Stuart once ran a bistro, but wanted “to do something more.” That something was to create a natural liqueur and, after months of research and a re-mortgaged house in the midst of the recession, she and Stuart created Hughes Craft Distillery in 2010 in Lisburn, Co Down. Managing every step of the process with Stuart, “from sourcing, production, labelling, selling,” they’ve produced some 65,000 bottles of RubyBlue Liqueur, and hope to double that in the next two years. They’re handcrafted in small batches from Irish grain spirit and infused with natural fruit – cue the awards.

And, in possibly the most Irish move ever, the small distillery has expanded into producing potato-based spirits: RubyBlue Premium Vodka. “We’d been asking for years why there was no Irish potato vodka when, as a country, we have a deep history with the humble spud,” Barbara says. “And now, our vodka has brought a phenomenal boost to our business.”

TRAVEL TIP The Limestone Way, on Belshaw’s Quarry National Nature Reserve, has revealed unique evidence of a geological “cake” showing what the Earth looked like 250 million years ago.

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DESTINATION | IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

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Eastern PROMISE Ireland’s Ancient East is the muchanticipated follow-up to the Wild Atlantic Way, an epic touring region incorporating 5,000 years of history. Here’s part one of a two-part eastern odyssey.

WORDS PÓL Ó CONGHAILE PHOTOGRAPHS PIOTR DYBOWSKI & DAVID SCIORA

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DESTINATION | IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

’m standing at the sacred centre of Ireland. Many moons ago, provinces met and ancient roads crossed at this hallowed hill, and the man waving a hazel stick beside me is as energised as if they did so yesterday. “l love it,” says Marty Mulligan.

“It’s green and lush, real Teletubby land. You can see 20 counties from here on a clear day. The views are widescreen. It hasn’t changed in thousands of years. Kings came to meet here. There are all kinds of theories ... it gives me shivers just thinking about it.”

We’re on the Hill of Uisneach (uisneach.ie), an undulating swathe of Westmeath farmland once held as a gateway to the mythical fifth province of Mide, which held Munster, Leinster, Ulster and Connacht together. At 182 metres above sea level, it’s barely a bulge, but the history is layered like baklava. Legend says Uisneach was home to the sovereignty goddess, Ériu, after whom Ireland (Éire) is named. It contains cairns, ring forts and a 30-tonne glacial erratic rock known as Umbilicus Hiberniae – the navel of Ireland. On Bealtaine (May 1), fires were lit to herald the arrival of summer, setting in chain a series of blazes on hills all over the country. St Patrick visited. So did James Joyce. Lugh, a Celtic sun god, is said to have been murdered in its little lake. At one point, Marty tells me I am standing on the spot where several druids had their tongues cut out. “Very Game of Thrones!” he laughs.

I’ve always wanted to visit this place but, like many Irish people I suspect, I’ve been distracted by more dramatic and high-profile sites out west, by coastal lures and city lights. “Ireland’s Ancient East” changed that. It’s Fáilte Ireland’s new tourism proposition – a touring region that links Neolithic, Early Christian, medieval and AngloIrish treasures flung across the lush landscapes of the east, southeast and midlands. It aims to get visitors

GRAHAM CORCORAN

I

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EAT AT …

MULTITASKER Set just off Junction 18 on the M1, Strandfield in Dundalk, Co Louth, combines a cool little florist, grocery store, bakery and café over several old farm buildings.

Natural light, simple menus (with an endearing emphasis on good eggs) and a huge selection of sweet treats beckon. (042 937 1856; strandfield. blogspot.com) ASIAN “It’s like a little bomb of flavour going off in your mouth,” says Carmel Corrigan, recommending a wickedly garlicky South Indian chicken curry at Copper & Spices in Navan, Co Meath. Chef Nitin Gautam’s Indian and Asian dishes are not what you’d expect in Ireland’s Ancient East, but the surprise (and delicious Boyne Valley produce) is most welcome. Start your feast with a tender keema kebab. (18 Ludlow Street, Navan, 046 906 0648) SUPER FOOD Set down a lane opposite St Peter’s Church, Bare Food Company is a new addition to Drogheda’s burgeoning food scene, and places a firm – but by no means exclusive – focus on healthy dishes. Smoothies, power omelettes and super salads slot in alongside American-style pancakes and “Rod’s poached eggs”, served with beans on Kneads artisan bakery bread. It’s fun, without being forced. (15 West Street, 041 983 5529; facebook.com/ barefoodco) PUB GRUB Harte’s Bar & Grill is a gorgeous gastro pub sitting under the shadow of St Brigid’s Cathedral in the heart of Kildare town. Barry Liscombe’s dishes range from seasonal specials to special staples (butter roasted chicken, or an eighthour braised blade of beef), and dishes come with craft beer match recommendations, too. A pub with poise. (Market Square, 045 533 557; hartesbar.ie) 54 |

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Opposite, clockwise from top left, Fore Abbey, Westmeath; spiral designs at Newgrange; feeling sheepish in the Boyne Valley; divine desserts at Harte’s Bar & Grill, Kildare; Paul Lenehan of Harte’s Bar; freshly-baked at Strandfield, Dundalk.

Clockwise from above, a reconstructed crannóg at Brú na Bóinne; a highcross at Kells; Toma Kelly at Harte’s Bar & Grill.

lingering longer in a region so many of us simply pass through.

And its stories are key.

Marty showed me that. Set on a working farm, Uisneach can be visited only on a guided tour.

But it needs that colour, that interpretation. Over a 90-minute walk, I’m shown eskers’ ancient earthworks and modern artworks.

Dodging cowpats and shooting the breeze, the nine-to-five of 2015 slowly evaporates. “I just get lost in it,” Marty sighs. “I love it.”

The Wild Atlantic Way saw Ireland spread its wings, but Ireland’s Ancient East is all about the roots. We’ve yet to see the signposts but we know that visitors can dip in and out of heritage sites, or immerse themselves for days. My own journey started in Carlingford, for example – a plum town on the Cooley Peninsula, backdrop to another epic legend: An Táin. Carlingford dates from the 12th century, but still feels like a secret – dotted with the medieval husks of an abbey, mint, tholsel and two castles under the looming hump of Slieve Foye.

Several looped walks are braided into a landscape where leprechaun lore runs mischievously deep (you’ll find a cabinet containing a

creature’s belongings and bones in PJ O’Hare’s pub).

From there, I drove south on the M1 towards Brú na Bóinne (heritageireland.ie), visitor centre and gateway for the passage tombs of Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. Like Uisneach, Newgrange pre-dates the Egyptian pyramids, with guides talking visitors through the spiralling stone artwork, a chamber illuminated by a shaft of sunlight on winter solstice (you get to see a simulation of the event), and the hushed inner chamber.

Was it a tomb or a temple? In truth, we’ll probably never know – theories abound and, for me, that’s a big part of its appeal.

Newgrange is stashed away in the Boyne Valley, richly fertile farmland whose stories and built heritage stretch back millennia.

“The history of Ireland might be written in tracing its banks,” William Wilde (father of Oscar) wrote of the River Boyne in 1849 and, today, you can pinball from the high crosses at Kells to the keep at Trim Castle (a location in Mel Gibson’s Braveheart), from the site of the Battle of the Boyne (1690) to the Hill of Tara, traditionally the seat of Ireland’s High Kings.

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DESTINATION | IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

1

3,000BC Loughcrew Cairns, Co Meath

The network of cairns at Loughcrew (aka the Hills of the Witch) sprawls across three hills near Oldcastle. Vernal and autumn equinox illuminations light up the chamber and backstone of Cairn T. Brilliantly, the key to said cairn is available from the local coffee shop. heritageireland.ie

Monasterboice monastery, Louth. Top, Loughcrew cairns, Boyne Valley.

2

900AD Fore Abbey, Co Westmeath

Forget the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The Seven Wonders of Fore include a monastery in a bog, water that flows uphill, a tree that won’t burn and water that won’t boil. Intrigued? That’s just the start of it. Benedictine abbey ruins, St Feichin’s holy well and an anchorite’s cell used by hermits until the 17th century are all hidden away in this remarkably off-radar valley.

3

520AD Monasterboice, Co Louth

This monastic site is famous for its round tower and 10thcentury high crosses, particularly Muiredach’s Cross, which stands 5.5 metres tall and was used to teach biblical scenes (St Michael weighing souls or Moses striking the rock, for example). discoverireland.ie/boynevalley

4

1884 St Peter’s Church, Drogheda Drogheda’s Gothic Revival centrepiece is famous for its shrine to Catholic martyr St Oliver Plunkett (1625-81). It’s pretty gruesome, containing the saint’s actual (and leatherylooking) head – but if we’re being honest, that’s the attraction.

Pope John Paul II visited in 1979. saintoliverplunkett.com

5

1904-1967 Patrick Kavanagh Country, Co Monaghan Inniskeen was the hometown of poet and author Patrick Kavanagh, and a short, 13.5-kilometre walk, drive or cycle takes visitors past the family homestead (scene of A Christmas Childhood), Billy Brennan’s Barn (“the wink-and-elbow language of delight”) and Inniskeen Road. You can also see the wordsmith’s grave, a modest wooden cross, at the Patrick Kavanagh Centre. patrickkavanaghcountry.com

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Now at Dublin Airport connecting passengers can get a personal assistant It’s called DUB HUB and it’s a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight. It couldn’t be easier with:

Free WiFi

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DUB HUB is available in Deutsch, English, Español, Français, Gaeilge and Italiano.

Simply go to dublinairport.com/dubhub or scan this code.

DESTINATION | IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

COUNTRY MANOR Boasting two championship golf courses, a leisure centre, including a spa and pool, guests may struggle to leave Carton House, an 18th century restored mansion.

Don’t get too cosy though – there are walks aplenty and a nine-kilometre bike trail to conquer on its 1,100 acres of private parkland. Rooms from €125.

(Maynooth, Co Kildare, 01 505 2000; cartonhouse.com) GEORGIAN Carlingford’s Ghan House is one of the newest members of Ireland’s Blue Book and is crammed with old-school comforts. Think crackling fires, sash windows and a two-AA Rosette restaurant, just a stone’s throw from the medieval village of Carlingford in Co Louth. Fusty and fabulous.

B&B from €160. (042 937 3682; ghanhouse.com) PALLADIAN Designed by Richard Cassels, the architect responsible for Russborough and Powerscourt, Bellinter House in Navan, Co Meath, mixes up classic character with quirky features – a games room with pool table, or paper lamps in the shape of animal heads, for example. Don’t forget to treat yourself in the Bathhouse spa. B&B from €120.

(046 903 0900; bellinterhouse.com) HOMESPUN Headfort Arms Hotel in Kells, Co Meath, is an historic hotel at the heart of the Boyne Valley; the Duff family’s 45-bed property was once the Marquis of Headfort’s townhouse. Be sure to book a table at its Vanilla Pod restaurant, with an admirable focus on local and seasonal ingredients … it’s the best in town. B&B from €69. (046 924 0063; headfortarms.ie) 58 |

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Left, the boathouse at Carton House.

Right, the Long Gallery at Castletown House.

CON BROGAN

SLEEP AT …

the tune of an old man playing a mandolin in the back of a van.

I don’t know why, but it seems apt.

After meeting Marty at the Hill of Uisneach, between Mullingar and Athlone, I dogleg back towards Dublin ... fast-forwarding several dozen centuries to another landmark of Ireland’s Ancient East, Castletown House (01 628 8252; castletown.ie). Set near Celbridge, Co Kildare, it’s a glorious snapshot of Palladian architecture and upstairs-downstairs life. “It set the trend,” as my guide, Claire Hickey, another consummate storyteller, tells me. “It was the first of its kind.” Castletown was built by William Conolly, speaker of the Irish House of Commons and once the wealthiest commoner in Ireland, but is perhaps best known as the home of Thomas (his grandnephew) and Lady Louisa (one of the four famous Lennox sisters) in the mid to late 18th century. They installed the French silk wallpapers, Venetian Murano glass chandeliers and Lafranchini brothers’ stuccowork, landscaping the estate and entertaining like royalty.

Not all of their guests were as

classy, however. In the dining room, Claire points out a crack in the mirror. “Do you know the story?” she asks. One day, Thomas Conolly returned from hunting with a stranger, a man dressed in black, she says. He did not know the rider but had invited him to join his guests for dinner. Later, the stranger fell asleep in a chair and a servant removed his boots to make him more comfortable. To their horror, a cloven hoof was revealed. One of the guests, a local priest, flung a Bible at the man, which bounced off his shoulder and cracked the mirror.

The man jumped up, cracked the fireplace with his hoof and vanished in a puff of smoke.

That crack, fracturing the hearth, also remains to this day. “And to think this place was covered in petrol in the 1920s,” Claire sighs, referring to the Civil War, when Republicans torched so many big houses around the country. “It was ready to be burned to the ground, until a local told them it had been built with Irish money by William Speaker Conolly.”

My journey in Ireland’s Ancient East was just beginning ...

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DESTINATION | GENEVA

city

CLOCKWORK Switzerland’s gateway to the Alps: pretty, plush Geneva is perfect for a chic mini-break, yet often gets overlooked in the scramble to the ski slopes.

WORDS FIONN DAVENPORT PHOTOGRAPHS AL HIGGINS

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Opposite, watching the world go by on the Rh么ne; this page, Cath茅dral Saint-Pierre, the adopted home church of John Calvin.

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DESTINATION | GENEVA

Clockwise from right, remembering Augustin Pyramus de Candolle, Swiss botanist, at Parc Des Bastions; outside the Patek Philippe Museum where time stands still; flagging up the Rue De l’Hôtelde-Ville.

f ever I needed a timely reminder that I’m firmly and forever one of the 99 per cent, I get it wandering amongst the climatecontrolled display cabinets of Geneva’s Patek Philippe Museum (Rue des VieuxGrenadiers 7, +41 22 807 0910; patekmuseum.com), where the famous watchmaking company shows off its collection of some of the gorgeous, super-expensive timepieces it has created since setting up shop in 1851.

Queen Victoria was a customer, as were the Russian tsars; I could barely afford one of their watchstraps, never mind wear a year’s wages on my wrist.

Wealth, like watchmaking, is a Geneva specialty but it’s displayed in a conspicuously muted manner. Even the high-end boutiques of the Rue du Rhône and Rue de Rive have a demure elegance, for this is a city that has long disapproved of vulgar ostentation, ever since John Calvin settled here in the middle of the 16th century and transformed a small provincial burg into the bastion of the Reformation, the Protestant Rome.

Even then the town must have been a handsome sight, comfortably wrapped around the western tip of Europe’s largest Alpine lake. Calvin was followed by thousands more, mostly Huguenot refugees fleeing persecution in France. Amongst them were expert goldsmiths and jewellers who found themselves unemployed in a town that had banned all kinds of immodesty, including dancing, the theatre and, most inconveniently, the wearing of jewellery. But Calvin’s

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EAT AT …

CHEESY When it comes to fondue, the serious Swiss don’t mess about and the terrific, family-run Café du Soleil uses only the very best Gruyère, made by master fromagiers Muller & Sons in the village of Roche and left to mature for up to eight months in a climate-controlled cave. Also on the menu are cheese beignets called Malakoffs, whose origin is traced to the Crimean War and are usually served with cornichons, pickled onions and a nice glass of white wine. (Place du Petit-Saconnex 6, +41 22 733 3417; cafedusoleil.ch) SELF-SERVE Genevans of all hues – students, workers and professionals – flock to Buvette des Bains, a shabby chic beach bar on the waterfront. Grab a tray and get in line: they serve breakfasts, cakes and a sensational range of cold cuts and salads, all at prices that won’t be beaten in the city centre. The plat du jour is always a treat, as is the fondue au crémant – the champagne fondue.

(Bains de Pâquis, Quai du Mont-Blanc 30, +41 22 732 2974; buvettedesbains.ch) MEMORABLE Inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s motto “simplicity equals perfection,” La Bottega’s chefs, Paulo Airaudo and Francesco Gasbarro, have pared back classic Italian cuisine to leave only its essence – and its fabulous taste. The comparisons with Rene Redzepi’s Noma restaurant in Copenhagen are inevitable – the elegant, minimalist décor and the focus on fresh, simply prepared organic ingredients – no wonder the folks at Michelin saw fit to bequeath it a star recently. (Grand-Rue 3, +41 22 736 1000; labottegatrattoria.com)

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Opposite page, top, the cosy interior at Café du Centre; Lake Geneva and its spectacular Jet d’Eau. Above, fascinating exhibits at the Musée d’Ethnographie de Genève; right, chefs Paulo Airoudo and Francesco Gasbarro of La Bottega.

piety was matched only by his ingenuity: let them make clocks, he declared, for surely timeliness was close to godliness? And so Geneva’s watchmaking tradition was born.

A Swiss friend told me that to understand truly the phlegmatic attitude of the typical Genevan – who values plain-speaking and makes a virtue out of waiting for the red man to turn green at pedestrian crossings – I’d need to know something of the city’s relationship with Calvin. And so I explore the audiovisual exhibits at the Musée International de la Réforme (4 Rue du Cloître, +41 22 310 2431; musee-reforme.ch), just beside the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre (Place du Bourg-de-Four 24, +41 22 311 7575; espace-saint-pierre.ch), from whose pulpit Calvin himself advocated the righteous path to salvation, daily and twice on Sunday. The simple chair where he rested between sermons is still there, next to the pulpit steps. Another set of steps (all 137 of them) lead to the top of the church tower (admission CHF5), from which you can appreciate how beautifully positioned Geneva is, with the lake framed by the Jura Mountains and, just beyond them, the Alps.

I also spent a couple of hours in the wonderful Musée d’Ethnographie de Genève (Boulevard Carl-Vogt 6567, +41 22 418 4550; ville-ge.ch), which opened in late 2014 and, despite its off-putting name, is a fascinating exploration of the diversity of culture, its exhibits all laid out in a Zen-like atmosphere.

So much culture can work up quite the appetite and here you’ve a cosmopolitan choice of cuisine – just part of the legacy of the city acting as operational HQ for a couple of hundred governmental and nongovernmental bodies (the other is in the range of quality hotels: Geneva, with a population of just under 300,000 people, has 13 five-star hotels, making it the densest

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to GENEVA five times per week, offering onward connections to a choice of ten Aer Lingus North American routes with the benefit of United States pre-clearance and customs at Dublin Airport.

TRAINS DEPART FREQUENTLY from the airport to the main station, Gare Cornavin. The trip takes just six minutes; by bus it’s around 20 minutes. Get a ticket from the Unireso machine in the Arrivals Hall for free public transport for up to 80 minutes.

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DESTINATION | GENEVA

SLEEP AT …

COSY A three-room B&B in a quiet suburb on the Rive Droite (easily reached by tram from the city centre), Le Jour et La Nuit is a garage conversion par excellence: the themed rooms (Lac, Prairie, Montagne) are the height of minimalist chic, with vintage mid-century furnishings, huge beds and modern Italian bathrooms. Breakfast – fresh bread, orange juice, etc – is served in a trendy lunchbox left by your door at 7am. Rooms from CHF195 (Avenue du Mervelet 8, +41 79 214 7387; lejouretlanuit-bnb.com) CONTEMPORARY The handsome, 150-room Hotel N’Vy, pronounced Envy, is within walking distance of La Perle-du-Lac Park and the Bains de Pâquis. It is loaded with all the amenities you’d expect from a four-star hotel but has plenty of nice touches too, from the Boho standard rooms with their mid-century replica furnishings to the Sochic Suites that come complete with terraces affording 180-degree views of the lake. A DJ works away in the bar beside the lobby and staff wear uniforms designed by Diesel Jeans. Rooms from CHF315 (Rue Richemont 18, +41 22 544 6666; hotelnvygeneva.com) CLASSY The oldest hotel in town, Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues is still the grandest and its clientele just as fancy: you’re as likely to bump into a statesman in the lobby as you are a Hollywood celeb or one of those unknown business types whose bread-andbutter is the multi-billion-dollar deal. Everything about this hotel is exceptional, from the extravagant flower arrangements and Baroque-framed artwork to the rooms created by interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon. €12,000 a night for the Royal Suite? Sure, why not? Regular rooms from CHF630. (Quai des Bergues 33, +41 22 908 7000; fourseasons.com) PANORAMIC Tintin visited the Hotel Cornavin in The Calculus Affair and it sports a statue to the adventurer beside the front door.

It’s handily located right beside Cornavin Train Station, which is one of the central hubs for public transport/trams in Geneva, as well as access to and from the airport. The rooms are surprisingly quiet and the seventh-storey breakfast bar’s panoramic windows give a great view of the city. Twin rooms from CHF 135. (Boulevard James-Fazy 23, +41 22 716 1212; fassbindhotels.ch) 66 |

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Clockwise from far left, reflections at Café du Centre; genial host of Le Jour & La Nuit, Alain Cauwerts; steps up to the Cathédral SaintPierre from Place du Bourg-de-Four.

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DESTINATION | GENEVA

Flying off-piste at close-by Chamonix.

SMART TIPS GRUYÈRES Take a delicious day-trip to indulge in guided tours of the main chocolate and cheese factories. Tours booked via viator.com.

QUARTIER DES PÂQUIS Hit the city’s multicultural quarter if you want to experience Geneva’s best ethnic bars and restaurants.

MARCHÉ AUX PUCES The thrice-weekly flea market is an opportunity to sift through a huge selection of vintage watches, old photos and other interesting knick-knacks.

SKI AT …

CHAMONIX Only 81 kilometres from Geneva and easily reached (in under an hour) by car, Chamonix is more than just a ski resort.

Its spectacular backdrop is Europe’s highest peak, Mont Blanc, the birthplace of mountaineering transformed into a winter playground.

There are nine main ski areas, including those best for beginners (Le Tour, Les Planards, Les Chosalets and La Vormaine) and those looking for speed (Brévent-Flégère and Les Grands Montets).

Boarders tend to favour the snowpark at Les Grands Montets and the half-pipe at Le Tour. The daily Chamonix RapidCard costs from €36.80. compagniedumontblanc.co.uk MORZINE There are more than 400 kilometres of trails around here, served by nearly 200 lifts all covered by one trans-frontier ski pass (€49.50 a day). Morzine is great for beginners and intermediate skiers; Avoriaz has plenty of off-piste action for boarders, while the truly advanced dare tackle Le Pas de Chavanette – aka The Swiss Wall – so moguled and steep that it’s rated double-black (orange on the European scale). The region is family-friendly too, with plenty of kids’ clubs and snow play areas for the little ’uns. It’s only 70 kilometres southeast of Geneva; it takes about an hour to get there by car. portesdusoleil.com VERBIER It might be a chi-chi resort for the winter elites but Verbier is as popular with ski bums bunking down in hostels post après-ski debauchery as it is with those who only stay in five-star chalets and refuel in Michelin-starred restaurants. The skiing itself is superb: you’re right in the heart of the Quatre Vallées, and you have a choice of 412 kilometres of pistes and 94 ski lifts. The resort is 162 kilometres southeast of Geneva and easily reached by car, bus or train. A three-day ski pass costs from CHF199. verbierbooking.com 68 |

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place on earth for top-end accommodation).

There’s something for every palate and virtually every budget (see “Eat at” on page 64): terrific student fare at places such as the Buvette des Bains (Quai du MontBlanc 30; buvettedesbains.ch) along the waterfront at Pâquis, or from the excellent food trucks operated by À Table (Place de Grenus 4; a-table.ch). I ate one of the best Italian meals I’ve ever had outside the Old Boot in the newish La Bottega (Grand Rue 3; labottegatrattoria. com) – which has already won itself a Michelin star.

I tucked into a terrific steak and chips at the Café du Centre (Place du Molard 5, +41 22 311 8586; cafeducentre.ch), one of the oldest of the city’s traditional brasseries. And I couldn’t be in Switzerland without dipping bits of bread into a bubbling cheese fondue: the best in town, my friend told me, was at the Café du Soleil (Place du Petit-Saconnex 6, +41 22 733 3417; cafedusoleil.ch), a bustling, family-run joint frequented by locals and in-the-know expats. They weren’t wrong.

On my last day I realised I’d yet to try – or buy – any chocolate. If I can’t buy myself a Patek Philippe watch, I can definitely afford the choccie equivalent, so I headed to the shop of master chocolatier Philippe Pascöet (Rue Saint-Joseph 12, +41 22 301 2058; philippe-pascoet.ch) in the pronouncedly Mediterranean neighbourhood of Carouge, established by Sardinian emigrants in the 18th century. It’s a great spot to wander amongst the boutiques and galleries that dot the streets, but I’m also happy with my well-wrapped, double-layered gift box of handmade chocolates. Pah. I don’t need a fancy watch. Anyway, I’m going skiing – and with my dodgy technique, a watch is just asking to get smashed!

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DESTINATION | BOSTON

MASS appeal Boston winters can be harsh but there’s plenty there to warm the cockles.

We cosy up to Beantown’s hotspots.

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS MARK DUGGAN

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e walked up Washington Street with a mixture of excitement and trepidation. Will it live up to expectations? The Beaux Arts-style Filene’s building became visible beyond a frieze of familiar, pendulous shopping bags.

Bright blue, neon lights lured us in: “Hello Boston!” they read, above an illustration merging Dublin’s landmarks with the Massachusetts capital’s. We had arrived. We were at the entrance of America’s first Penneys store. Or, rather, Primark – its moniker in line with its UK and mainland Europe counterpart.

Of course Boston is well used to Irish imports, the city having the largest percentage of Irish descendants in the United States thanks to the nexus of famine émigrés in the 19th century. Its turbulent colonial past is evident in its multifarious architecture, from the historic (Old South Meeting House, the starting point of the Boston Tea Party in 1773) and majestic (the gold-domed State House, circa 1713) to the Romanesque (Copley Square’s Trinity Church, 1877), continental (beautiful bow-front Renaissance revival townhouses) and iconic

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(Fenway Stadium, where the Aer Lingus-supported AIG Fenway Hurling Classic and Irish Festival was held last November). This is a city that, despite trading on its colonial history – the Freedom Trail, Paul Revere’s House and Bunker Hill monument are star tourist attractions – is ever looking forward.

In recent history, size matters; the tallest building being 200 Clarendon or, colloquially, The Hancock at 240 metres, followed by the Prudential and, under construction, Millennium Tower, a gleaming monument to industry and luxury living. Meanwhile, the Seaport area is fast becoming a hive of commerce, its sleek, lustrous office blocks surging above unusually flashy

Opposite, the George Washington Statue at Boston Common.

Above left and right, leafy scenes of Beacon Hill, below right, Christine Variable walks her pooch, and left, super food at Alden & Harlow in Somerville.

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DESTINATION | BOSTON

SLEEP AT …

SMART Baby, it’s cold outside – but it ain’t in the rooms at the XV Beacon, above, where just a flick of a switch beside the bed ignites a gas fire. This handsome boutique hotel – dark wood, marble bathroom, chaise longues and an original elevator – is an easy walk from Park Street Station at Boston Common. Take cocktails at the bar in Mooo steakhouse (ground floor) before hitting the tiles. Rooms from $335.

(15 Beacon Street, +1 617 670 1500; xvbeacon.com)

restaurants. (Massachusetts is famously understated; in Bay Village, I saw a restaurant maître d’ wearing Hunter wellies.)

Boston often gets flak – usually from the Boston Globe – for being the prissy cousin of New York and Chicago, its puritanical heritage famously permeating into 2am alcohol licensing laws, for example. But it’s a city that quietly and confidently thrives on change, its 100-some universities and colleges in Greater Boston a breeding ground for cross-cultural tech and pharmaceutical prodigies.

Consequently, its culinary scene is as diverse as its arts, culture and shopping is cosmopolitan.

The South End neighbourhood offers all of the above, its handsome Victorian brownstones and multiethnic eateries a must for the epicurious visitor with a penchant for self-gifting. Wrap up warm and stroll down upscale Union Park Street where independent boutiques can’t help but tug the purse strings, such as chic homewares and designer clothing store Michelle 72 |

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Anticlockwise from top right, handsome guest rooms at the XV Beacon; the impossibly pretty Acorn Street on Beacon Hill; a tempting tipple at Toro, and Susan Corcoran, owner of ace gift shop and stationers, Black Ink.

ARRESTING A former police headquarters, Loews Hotel in Back Bay is a fine place in which to serve time. Grand from the outside and elegant inside, its interior design is contemporary yet comfortable – oh, those cloud-soft beds! – while staff couldn’t be more helpful to “inmates”.

Rooms from $199. (154 Berkeley Street, +1 617 266 7200; loewshotels.com) DISTINGUISHED Boston Park Plaza has welcomed guests since 1927 but is showing few signs of decrepitude thanks to classic, bright and airy decor. On the corner of Park Plaza and Arlington in Back Bay, it’s within walking distance of all the star attractions, and its bars and restaurants are lively. Rooms from $100. (50 Park Plaza, +1 800 225 2008; bostonparkplaza.com) BIJOU Small but perfectly formed – it has just 13 guest rooms – the Beacon Hill Hotel and Bistro is on the indisputably photogenic Charles Street. Giving great curb appeal, it occupies two 19th-century townhouses and marries contemporary aestheticism with sympathetic throwbacks (louvred shutters, mahogany fireplaces). Brunch here is also excellent. Rooms from $199.

(25 Charles Street, +1 617 723 7575; beaconhillhotel.com)

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150 W 47th St. NY 10036 (btwn 6th & 7th Ave) Tel: 212.869.5482

3 FESTIVE CHEERS FOR …

1

Ice Skating on Boston Common Frog Pond Get your skates on at America’s oldest public park. Each winter the Frog Pond is naturally transformed into a rink for wannabe dancers on ice. Admission is based on skaters’ height – top price $5 – while skating boot rental costs $10 for adults; $5 for kids. bostonfrogpond.com

2

Mansion Walk in Newport Ding-dong! Get merrily on high in charming Newport, Rhode Island – playground to the filthy rich in the 19th century, including the Vanderbilts, Astors and Morgans. These coastal piles recall Great Gatsby-era excess; a smash-and-grab of architectural styles, from French Gothic Revival to Italian Renaissance.

During the festive season, these “cribs” are festooned with poinsettias, Christmas trees, gingerbread villages, and yuletide spirit. Opening hours are at newportmansions.org. And for the journey back to Boston – about 110 kilometres – pick up a divine sea salt and chocolate toffee apple from Kilwins of Newport (262 Thames Street, +1 401 619 3998; kilwins.com)

3

Snowboarding and Skiing The New England ski resorts of Maine, New Hampshire and Vermont are a big draw for advanced skiers and snowboarders, but for a day’s fun on the piste, Nashoba Valley in Westford is less than an hour’s drive from Boston, and also boasts snow tubing and racing. Great for families, while nearby hotels offer Ski and Stay packages for those wanting to linger longer. skinashoba.com 74 |

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A park for all seasons – Boston Public Garden, above, is a great place to stretch the legs. Left, Dion Grant chilling on Charles Street. Opposite, clockwise from top left, Max Markmanrud takes a break on Commonwealth Avenue; Polkadog Bakery’s Deborah Suchman and Robert Van Sickle; Lisa Cancelli, owner of the boutique Viola Lovely; quirky stationery at Black Ink.

Willey (michellewilley.com), and Old Japan, Inc (oldjapaninc.com), which sells all-things-quirky from the Far East, including ceramics, origami, kimonos and cute, irreverent-slogan socks (example: “Shut your pie hole”). On nearby Washington Street, Viola Lovely (violalovely.com) purveys covetable brands – Isabel Marant, MSF, Mother Denim – while Boomerangs (action.aac.org), specialises in second-hand glad rags in support of HIV/AIDS services.

After threatening to exceed your luggage allowance, walk on to buzzy tapas bar Toro (+1 617 536 4300; toro-restaurant.com), where our party of three found not one dud among the authentic pimentos del padron, tortilla Española, gambas al ajillo, grilled corn with alioli, lime, pepper and aged cheese, and churros con chocolat. Consider your cockles duly warmed.

Parallel, on Shawmut Avenue, is South End Buttery (+1 617 482 1015; southendbuttery. com), a popular bakery and

casual restaurant nourishing the neighbourhood with hearty breakfast burritos, kale salads, and sweet potato walnut blondies.

In the unlikely event that you’re travelling with a pooch, furry friends can also get fed and watered at Polkadog Bakery (+1 617 338 5155; polkadog.com), where mindboggling treats await, such as peanut butter Wonder Nuggets and myriad jerky.

Another dinnertime hit – for humans, that is – is in nearby Bay Village, one of Boston’s smallest and quaintest ’hoods. Inventive Italian Erbaluce (69 Church Street, +1 617 426 6969; erbaluce-boston.com) does a roaring trade in fresh, handmade pasta garnished with, for instance, sunflower petals; the perfect comfort food when snow starts falling on the old gas streetlamps outside. Further afield, on Harvard Square, Cambridge, is Alden & Harlow (40 Brattle Street, +1 617 864 2100; aldenharlow.com), a super restaurant and bar that does things with Brussels sprouts

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BOSTON twice daily, and from Shannon once daily.

A SIMPLE CHECK-IN PROCESS Check in for outbound and inbound flights at the same time, from inside 30 hours right up to 30 days in advance of your flights.

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Back to the future – left, chef John Delpha at Rosebud diner in Somerville. Below, paella tapas at the buzzy Toro and, bottom, Naureen Huq at the terrific Alden & Harlow in Harvard Square, Cambridge.

EAT AT …

BREAKFAST Crab cakes Benedict.

Belgian waffles with fresh fruit, cream and warm maple syrup. Posh corned beef hash and eggs. Set yourself up for a day of sightseeing at the venerable Taj Hotel Café, while people-watching on to Arlington and Newbury Street.

Many of the staff are long-timers and it shows – their understated expertise is pitch perfect. (15 Arlington Street, +1 617 536 5700; tajhotels.com) BRUNCH For retro eats, head over to Somerville’s Davis Square: Rosebud American Kitchen and Bar’s frontage is a pristine, refurbished diner car, with red banquettes so shiny you can almost see your face – eating a griddled omelette followed by blueberry pie, washed down with lavender lemonade – in them. (381 Summer Street, +1 617 629 9500; rosebudkitchen.com). Owner Joe Cassinelli also has another brunch hit, the nearby Painted Burro, its authentic Mexican dishes and Bloody Marias just the tonic for giddy weekends.

(219 Elm Street, +1 617 776 0005; thepaintedburro.com). Burn it all off with a spot of candlepin bowling at Sacco’s 76 |

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Bowl Haven (45 Day Street, +1 617 776 0552; flatbreadcompany.com).

DINNER Of Irish-American stock, restaurateur Barbara Lynch – only the second woman to receive the James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Restaurateur, in 2014 – has it all sewn up in the Fort Point area, with four of several businesses in the one building on Congress Street. There’s Sportello, a contemporary Italian (sportelloboston.com); Drink cocktail bar (drinkfortpoint.com); outside catering company 9 at Home (9athome. com); and Menton (mentonboston. com), her newest, and most fine dining, enterprise. Prices are steep, portions are minuscule – but flavours are big and technical prowess is high.

LIVE MUSIC A veritable hive of live bands, bar grub, cocktails and craft beer, The Beehive is a buzzy prospect for a night out – pardon the puns. From jazz to comedy, burlesque to reggae, its playbill reaches far and wide. In a good way. (541 Tremont Street, +1 617 423 0069; beehiveboston.com)

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DESTINATION | BOSTON Below, the ICA’s architecture is as impressive as its exhibitions. Right, Janet Eschelman’s temporary art installation on the Rose Kennedy Greenway. Bottom, Poppy Ghozali of Michelle Willey boutique.

SMART TIPS ON ARRIVAL Boston Logan International Airport is less than six kilometres from downtown Boston. If you’re staying in a hotel near the Downtown Waterfront, Seaport, Charlestown, or North End, a water taxi is a novel way to get there – check out schedules at massport.com.

GETTING AROUND Known as America’s “Walking City,” compact Boston is easy to get around by foot. Equally, its underground network, aka “the T”, is quick, efficient and well priced. CharlieCards start at $2.65. mbta.com PLAN AHEAD If you’re visiting in spring/summer, join an excellent Urban Adventours bike tour, which takes in the iconic Fenway Stadium, Copley Square, Boston Harbour and more. urbanadventours.com

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that you never thought possible.

Dishes are inventive, wholesome and downright delicious, while dangerously moreish cocktails change on a regular basis. It’s a bold claim but, this, and Toro, were my standout restaurants on this trip.

A visit to Boston isn’t complete without chowing on “chowdah” and “lobstah” rolls of course – head downtown to Quincy Market (faneuilhallmarketplace.com) – but at some point you’ll want to counter the indulgence. If a bracing harbour walk sounds like folly during the depths of winter, enjoy maritime

views from the comfort of the Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA); a jutting jewel in Seaport.

Not just an exhibition space, it also houses music and dance performances, talks, and family activities (100 Northern Avenue, +1 617 478 3100; icaboston.org).

Aesthetes will also find much to love at the Museum of Fine Arts (465 Huntington Avenue, +1 617 267 9300; mfa.org), a splendid, colossal treasury of some 450,000 artworks and artefacts, from Ancient Egypt to contemporary photography. It’s beautifully designed, and staff are as friendly as they are knowledgeable. Expect to spend a full afternoon here.

And don’t leave Boston without exploring historic Charles Street – it’s firmly on the tourist trail but for good reason, its independent boutiques an antidote to the big brands on nearby Newbury Street.

Pick up quirky cards, gifts and stationery in Black Ink (+1 617 723 3883; blackinkboston.com); bespoke jewellery and vintageinspired womenswear at the beautifully-curated Holiday (+1 617 973 9730; holidayboutique. net); natural, high performance skincare at Follain (+1 857 233 5211; shopfollain.com) and cuttingedge clothing, homewares and accessories at December Thieves (decemberthieves.com).

Yes, my suitcase was bulging with boodles on my return flight home. But for a relaxed, unpretentious city break – surprising for a place where smartypants greatly outnumber us mere mortals – Boston reaches parts that other, perceptibly hipper cities just can’t reach.

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SMART EDIT | OPERA HOUSES

You say, we say ...

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OPERA HOUSES to Make You Sing

Lucy White reveals the top ten opera houses that have wowed Aer Lingus passengers.

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Boston Opera House Despite its relatively unassuming entrance, the Boston Opera House on Washington Street is a Tardis of Baroque and Rococo excess. You’ll be cooing at the gilded ornamentation before you’ve even entered the magnificent 2,500-seat auditorium; the fruits of its $54 million renovations in the late 1990s and early 2000s are obvious to see. bostonoperahouse.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston twice daily, and from Shannon daily.

WHITNEY COX

ot everyone knows their aria from their elbow, but few can argue that opera houses are things of beauty. Plush red upholstery, multiple tiers, ostentatious lobbies – and more gilt than you can shake a conductor’s baton at – their opulent motifs stretch back to the 17th century when opera first started rousing audiences. The first public opera house was Venice’s Teatro San Cassiano, which opened in 1637 and underwent several incarnations before being demolished in 1812 due to recurring fires. Indeed, more fires have ripped through more auditoria than Pavarotti had hot dinners, but you can’t keep a good opera house down, many being restored and rebuilt – some several times. Naturally, not all are wildly decorative, the new generation boasting clean lines and glassy facades, such as the world’s most expensive new build – the imposing Copenhagen Opera House, which cost nearly $500 million. Here, we raise the velvet curtains on your favourite operatic venues ...

2 Copenhagen Opera House

A BOFILL

Denmark’s national opera house – inaugurated in 2005 - is one of the world’s most expensive opera houses ever built, totalling a whopping $500 million. The spend is visible everywhere you look, from the Sicilian marble flooring in the foyer, and goldleaf ceiling, to the limestone, glass-andsteel exterior, which gives the illusion of being built on its own island. It’s not style over substance either – the stateof-the-art auditorium is multifunctional, allowing for a capacity of between 1,492 and 1,703 persons. kglteater.dk

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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Copenhagen six times per week.

Liceu Grand Theatre The Spanish poet Federico García Lorca (1898-1936) once said that Barcelona’s La Rambla was “the only street in the world which I wish would never end”. We wonder what he might make of the tourist-thronged thoroughfare today … but we reckon he would still have high praise for the Gran Teatre del Liceu, which opened in 1847. The Spanish Civil War and

economic crises have rocked the opera house – not least a series of fires, in 1994, when a spark fell on the curtain during a routine repair. But the icon has been in rude health since reopening in 1999. liceubarcelona.cat

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona up to twice daily.

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Wiener Staatsoper

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna four times per week.

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Opera di Nice Nice is best-known for its cerulean coastline but it also boasts an opera house and theatre that has defied the odds, namely being destroyed by King Charles Felix in the 1820s and by a fire in the 1880s. It was promptly rebuilt, opening with Verdi’s Aida, and renamed Opéra Nice Côte d’Azur.

These days it offers three types of

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From its celebrated Ringstrasse to its allegorical arcades, wall paintings and marble statues on the staircase, the Vienna State Opera is as handsome on the inside as it is on the outside. Can’t afford a ticket? Just pull up a pew outside during April, May and September, where free outdoor screenings are offered of live performances happening inside. staatsoperlive.com

performances: operas, ballets and classical concerts, while housing the Ballet Nice Méditerranée and the Nice Philharmonic Orchestra. opera-nice.org

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Nice four times per week.

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Royal Opera of Versailles Opera houses don’t get much more ostentatious than that at the Palace of Versailles, near Paris. It opened with Lully’s Persée in 1770 to celebrate the wedding of the future Louis XVI to Marie-Antoinette, the grand theatre oozing with Neoclassical bling. Restorations happened in the 1950s and more recently in 2007-2009, when its original features were complemented with improved acoustics and technology.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris up to five times daily, and from Cork to Paris daily.

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ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

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Royal Opera House, London This Covent Garden institution has been wowing audiences since the 1730s, when its debut production – a ballet of Pygmalion – scandalously featured the French dancer and choreographer Marie Sallé wearing not the standard corset but free-flowing robes. As with many an historic opera house, Covent Garden survived many a fire, with subsequent rebuilding and restorations an ongoing theme. However, the building you see now closely resembles its 1858 blueprint – and is where the British Academy Film Awards and Laurence Olivier Awards are held annually. roh.org.uk

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow daily, and from Dublin to Gatwick four times daily and from Knock to Gatwick daily.

Cork Opera House

PROVISION

CAROLINE DOUTRE

Cork Opera House was also devasted by a fire, which, in 1955, ripped through a building dating back to the mid-1800s. The “new” build has seen many reincarnations since the 1990s, resulting in a sleek, glass-fronted high-tech arts centre seating 1,000 performance fans – making it Ireland’s only purposebuilt opera house. Great river views too, while an art gallery and smaller performance space add to its multidisciplinary appeal. corkoperahouse.ie

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Aer Lingus flies daily from Cork to Paris and four times daily from Dublin. Flight prices start from €54.99 one way.

For more information on fares and schedules visit aerlingus.com.

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SMART EDIT | OPERA HOUSES

Met Opera Once upon a time, i.e. in 1883, New York’s Met Opera was on Broadway/39th Street.

But it eventually outgrew its premises, joining forces with other NYC institutions to form the Lincoln Center for Performing Arts, on the Upper West Side, in 1966. So successful has

La Scala Drop in to the lavish environs of one of Italy’s most opulent interiors and indulge in one of Milan’s most beloved, highsociety fripperies – a night at La Scala offers unparalleled beauty and acoustics. teatroallascala.org

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Milan (Linate) daily.

OVER TO YOU

In the next issue, we share your Ten Favourite Brunch Spots at Aer Lingus destinations. Have your say – and post your pics – @CARAMagazine, using the hashtag #CaraYSWS.

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the Met become, it now presents ten live, highdefinition transmissions of its productions per year, in more than 2,000 movie theatres in 70 countries. And if you’re in Manhattan but light of purse, check out its free-to-the-public Open Dress Rehearsals. metopera.org

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York twice daily, and from Shannon daily.

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Gold RUSH

Tracking Hollywood stars – dead, alive, or out for a jog – is just one of many pursuits for visitors to sprawling Los Angeles.

WORDS ROSS McDONAGH PHOTOGRAPHS MATT MARRIOTT

sucks.” I’ve heard that from firsttime visitors before. Heck, even I thought it sucked the first time I came here.

Like most Europeans, I’m used to my cities being built around ports and rivers, all bunched up so you can walk anywhere, or use public transport. LA is not like that.

It’s massive. You need a car, and an idea of where to go, including the staples. The Hollywood Walk of Fame – like Tinsel Town itself – looks cool from a distance but is a little grotty close up. But no visit to LA is complete without walking it once. Head down any time – even better on weekend nights – to soak up the zany atmosphere, and see if you can find the 13 stars that bear one-word stage names (neither Madonna nor Cher is one, believe it or not) or the only star not on the ground so the name cannot be walked upon (Muhammad Ali, of course).

Check the website (walkoffame.com) to see if there are any new inductee ceremonies happening.

While there you can catch a film at the iconic Grauman’s Chinese Theatre (tclchinesetheatres.com), but, even better is The El Capitan Theatre (elcapitantheatre.com),

“LA

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a gorgeous retro, single-screen movie palace, complete with giant Wurlitzer organ that plays show tunes before the movie.

Don’t be afraid to wander into Hollywood Boulevard’s tributaries either, such as Boardner’s (boardners.com) and its secret fountain patio at the back, or the “oldest Italian restaurant in LA”, Miceli’s (micelisrestaurant.com), with its singing waiters and million signed wicker wine bottles hanging from the ceiling – you can hang your autographed empty beside Julia Roberts’ ... if you can find it.

Normally I wouldn’t recommend watching so many films while on holiday, but you are in Hollywood after all ... and if you want the absolute best movie experience, check out Cinespia’s event at Forever Hollywood Cemetery (hollywoodforever.com) on Santa Monica Boulevard.

Everyone brings picnic blankets, food and drink – yes, alcohol is allowed – and cuddles up among the headstones of the Hollywood greats, while classic movies (often presented by one of the film’s stars) are projected on the side of an enormous mausoleum.

“The cemetery is where all these great movie stars from the golden age of Hollywood are buried, and the giant Fairbanks Lawn seemed like the perfect place to screen classic films,” says John Wyatt, who came up with the concept 14 years ago. “It’s all kinds of people from all walks of life in Los Angeles. You have a famous movie starlet sitting next to an aspiring screenwriter that works at Starbucks, all in the same field, all doing what we love to do in Los Angeles ... and that is watch movies.” Get there early for a good spot.

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Clockwise from top, surf’s up at Venice Beach; cheery street art on Santa Monica Boulevard; Lucha Libre masks at Olvera Street Market; Sunny the pooch catches some rays at the Ace Hotel Downtown; taco treats; chillin’ in Chinatown.

Do hen y & Nesbi t t 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available Voted overall

A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.

Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - A must for any trip to Dublin.

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See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes Guided Factory Tours Daily Waterford Brand & Visitor Experience

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“No visit to LA is complete without walking the Hollywood Walk of Fame once” 92 |

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If you prefer your celebrities alive, there are many other haunts. You could take one of the star-spotting tours offered on Hollywood Boulevard but, personally, I’d prefer to get in the car (seriously, hire a car) and cruise along one of the elite avenues off Sunset Boulevard – Coldwater Canyon Drive, Laurel Canyon Boulevard, Mulholland Drive – and simply marvel at the houses. In fact, Coldwater spills right out into Beverly Hills near Rodeo Drive, if you want to (window) shop in the kinds of stores those homeowners like to frequent.

Of course, sitting on your butt in a car or theatre all week won’t cut it in health-kicky LA – there are plenty of gorgeous hikes around the city where you can do a bit of celeb spotting on the side.

Nestled between Laurel Canyon and Mulholland Drive is Runyon Canyon, where it can be tricky to go for a jog and not run into

a celebrity and their dog. (That’s why everyone who hikes there has their hair done and make-up immaculate.) For hikers who aren’t too concerned with spotting famous people, there’s Griffith Park, a 1,740-hectare expanse that houses tonnes of trails of all abilities, and more. Countless films were shot at various locations throughout the park – you’ll recognise backdrops from The Terminator, Back to the Future, Rebel Without a Cause ... you can even drive through the tunnel entrance to Toontown from Who Framed Roger Rabbit.

Scattered throughout the park is the big old-school carousel, the Greek Theatre, the LA Zoo, or better still the “old zoo”, abandoned 50 years ago but you can still wander around and even get into some of the animal enclosures – there’s something eerie about it even in broad daylight. Griffith Observatory (griffithobservatory. org), right at the summit, is also

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LOS ANGELES five times per week starting May 4, 2016.

A SIMPLE CHECK-IN PROCESS Check-in for outbound and inbound flights at the same time, from inside 30 hours right up to 30 days in advance of your flights.

MORE DESTINATIONS Aer Lingus has announced over 250,000 additional seats to popular holiday destinations as part of its 2016 summer schedule from Dublin, Cork and Shannon.

Find out more ways to Fly Smart to the sun at aerlingus.com

1

DON’T MISS ...

Cycle Venice Boardwalk Cycle, rollerblade, rollerskate, skateboard, Segway, or even hoverboard along the cycle track tracing the Venice shoreline (tip: DO NOT rent from the top of the pier – go to one of the hidden rental spots underneath it, for a third of the price) and slowly cruise down towards Muscle Beach Gym, stop for beers along the way, watch (or play) volleyball, and take a stroll along the canals (it’s not called Venice for nothing, you know).

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Catch a show at Hollywood Bowl Everyone from Avicii and The Beatles to Yoyo Ma and ZZ Top have played at this bewitching venue, carved into the Hollywood Hills. It has more than 17,000 capacity, yet has all the intimacy of a tiny club. Go early with a bottle

of wine and a picnic blanket; find yourself a cosy corner and chill out before the show.

Prices range from one to three figures, so there’s something for everyone: in 2016, David Gilmour, Janet Jackson, The Cure and Black Sabbath are performing. (2301 Highland Avenue, +1 323 850 2000; hollywoodbowl.com)

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Go to the Sayers Club One of the coolest live music venues in all of LA, hosting the best up-andcoming groups to the likes of Slash, Prince, and the Black Keys, or maybe some random celeb will drop by and perform with the amazing house band on the stage that drops down from the rafters. Treat yourself to bottle service and grab one of those plush couches. (1645 Wilcox Avenue, +1 323 871 8233; sayersclub.com) AERLINGUS.COM |

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highly recommended, with its daily planetarium shows and enormous two-storey Foucault pendulum swinging through the entrance hall to demonstrate the Earth’s rotation.

Griffith Park is also home to the famous Hollywood sign and, while you can’t “officially” make your way over to it, it is the best place to view it from.

If you want to spot Hollywood stars before they become Hollywood stars, you should definitely catch an improv comedy show at Groundlings (groundlings.com), the school on Melrose Avenue where Will Ferrell, Lisa Kudrow, Melissa McCarthy and Kristin Wiig learned their trade – and sometimes an alumni will drop by unannounced and join the cast on the night.

If you prefer your stars a little more established but still fancy an intimate venue, then look no further than the Hollywood Bowl (see

EAT AT ...

UPSCALE A tiny non-descript building houses Alma in Downtown LA. Go, pay $110 for the nine-course tasting menu and prepare for one of the best dining experiences of your life. The tongue equivalent of your eyes suddenly discovering a new colour. I was so drunk on food, I didn’t even notice my wife had ordered a bottle of $180 wine. Twice.

(925 South Broadway, +1 213 244 1422; alma-la.com) THAI I can’t recommend any of the dishes at Hollywood Thai because I never know what I eat. It is the only place my Thai friends will dine – and they only ever order in Thai. Very friendly staff will help out, but be warned: Thai “spicy” is SPICY. (5241 Hollywood Boulevard, +1 323 467 0926; hollywoodthairestaurant.net)

“Weather-wise, Los Angeles is the polar opposite of Ireland. While the Irish enjoy three nice days a year, in LA it rains about three times a year”

SUSHI Every restaurant in LA will tell you their establishment is where the stars eat, but Katsuya Hollywood is where that actually happens. Established by master sushi chef Katsuya Uechi, who gives classic Japanese cuisine a modern Californian twist. The crispy rice and spicy tuna is to die for. (6300 Hollywood Boulevard, +1 323 515 8782; katsuyarestaurant.com/hollywood) TAPAS The hipster beachfront stretch of Abbot Kinney is littered with excellent and unique eateries, among them Gjelina.

Modern yet rustic, with an adorable openair patio, the tables are closely clustered but it adds to the buzz. Order a selection of small plates – making sure to have the yellowtail. (1429 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, Venice, +1 310 450 1429; gjelina.com) 94 |

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“Don’t Miss”, page 93), a gorgeous outdoor amphitheatre cosily tucked into the Hollywood Hills, where you can find artists from John Williams to The Who performing.

Weather-wise, Los Angeles is the polar opposite of Ireland. While the Irish enjoy, on average, three nice days a year, in LA it rains about three times a year. Sure there are drought problems, but it also means you have 362 beach days in a given year. Angelinos are spoiled for choice in terms of beaches, and each one offers something different.

Malibu is the rich beach where you can gaze up at the waterfront homes, owned by people too rich to even bother occupying them; Will Rogers is the gay beach; Venice is the weirdo beach ... and right in the middle of them is Santa Monica, which has a bit of everything. Take a stroll along Santa Monica Pier and its classic American beachside

Top, the intoxicating dishes at Alma on South Broadway.

Right, al fresco refreshments in the Arts District.

WHERE YOU CAN TASTE

THE LAST CHAPTER

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Brand New Immersive Exhibition & Visitor Attraction

Opening March 2016

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DESTINATION | LOS ANGELES

SLEEP AT ...

ICONIC The Chateau Marmont was built in 1929 – and more Tinseltown debauchery has occurred inside its walls than TMZ’s servers could handle. Rooms aren’t cheap, but there’s no better place to stay if you wanna feel like a Hollywood celeb. And who knows, you might even run into a real one.

Rooms from $502. (8221 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood, +1 323 656 1010; chateaumarmont.com) TRENDY If you’re gonna stay at the super-cool The Redbury, right in the heart of Hollywood, you might as well go the whole hog and book one of the suites, with their full kitchens, private balcony patios, floorto-ceiling windows, walk-in rain showers and sweet little touches such as record players with a random collection of vinyl. Shoot some pool in the opulent Library Bar, and try the Brussels sprouts at Cleo – seriously! Suites from $239.

(1717 Vine Street, +1 323 962 1717; theredbury.com)

URBAN If you came to LA to shop, then the Palihotel is the place to stay. This cute, 32-room boutique hotel holds court on Melrose Avenue, within walking distance of Rodeo Drive, The Grove and The Beverly Centre (and its across-the-road-much-cheaper twin, Beverly Connection).

Its restaurant, The Hart and the Hunter, is highly recommended. Rooms from $165. (7950 Melrose Avenue, +1 323 272 4588; pali-hotel.com) DOWNTOWN Nestled in the heart of Little Tokyo, the Hilton DoubleTree has absorbed delightful Japanese touches, including its rooftop Kyoto garden with beautiful views of the cityscape.

Walk to LA’s transport hub Union Station, or avail of the complimentary transport to the likes of Staples Center, LA Live and Dodger Stadium. Rooms from $179.

(120 South Los Angeles Street, +1 213 629 1200; doubletreeladowntown.com)

SMART TIPS ON ARRIVAL Passengers leaving LAX may board buses on the lower/Arrivals level under the green FlyAway Buses and Long Distance Vans sign in front of each terminal. Each bus is marked with its service location. From $8 one-way. lacity.org DON’T MISS The Los Angeles County Museum of Art, which houses 120,000 artworks, spanning all eras and all mediums. lacma.org

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carnival – it’s the last point on the iconic Route 66.

One thing you’ll definitely want to do is rent a bike – or rollerblades, if that’s your thing – and cruise along the Venice Boardwalk (see “Don’t Miss”, page 93). Venice is a magnet for everything weird and wonderful. People sell arts and crafts made from bits of palm trees that fell in front of them. You’ll see street performers, artists, crispy brown old dudes playing electric guitars on roller skates. It is stoner heaven (marijuana is medically legal here and you can get it “prescribed” for a sore finger).

Make your way all the way up to Muscle Beach Gym where Arnold Schwarzenegger used to pump iron in the open-air pen – you can even jump in yourself for a few sets with

a $10 day pass. Check out the oceanfront skate park en route and, if you’re looking for a great view of the whole stretch, climb up to the aptly named High Rooftop Lounge for a cocktail atop the Hotel Erwin (hotelerwin.com).

If you’re going to lay out on the beach, instead of buying/ renting and then hauling gear, you should try BeachBooker (beachbooker.la), an awesome startup company started by an Irishman (this one, in fact) who set people up on the beach resort-style.

LA, of course, does not “suck”.

As I write this, I have been here for three years to the day – I’ve barely scratched the surface of stuff to do here – and I have no intention of ever leaving.

Healy Mac’s on P Ramlee in Kuala Lumpur named Best Irish Bar in the World by The Irish Times & Diageo Now open at Breaffy House Hotel Castlebar, Co Mayo

Healy Mac’s multi-award-winning Irish Bar & Restaurant Malaysia . Indonesia . Ireland

SMART EDIT | WINTER BREAKS

5

BEST WINTER WONDERS

Catherine Murphy spotlights the best snow-spots and sun-traps this season.

GOURMET GREATNESS

ZERMATT, SWITZERLAND

MUST DO Treat yourself to a gastro safari with the Gornergrat Gourmet Ticket (gornergratbahn.ch), a culinary tour that serves up starter, main

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Zurich daily.

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course and dessert at three different locations on the mountain. The tour costs around €137pp. Zermatt is also home to Michelin-star restaurants Ristorante Capri (Mont Cervin Palace, Bahnhofstrasse 31, +41 27 966 8888; montcervinpalace.ch) and After Seven at Hotel Backstage (Hofmattstrasse 4, +41 27 966 6970; backstagehotel.ch).

STAY Zermatt’s igloo village, Iglu-Dorf, is newly created each winter by a team of hardworking ice artists.

Opt for a romantic suite with private whirlpool, music system and three decorated igloos, or go all out and build your own love nest with help from an igloo expert. For the ultimate get-away, stay in a small exclusive igloo on Lake Hinterstocken island; rates from €119pp.

(Rotenboden, Gornergrat Skigebiet, +41 41 612 2728; iglu-dorf.com)

SWISS TOURISM

Surrounded by 29 peaks – some topping 4,000 metres – and with the majestic Matterhorn to admire, Zermatt is well-known for its highaltitude skiing. It can be accessed via the Gornergrat, an open-air cog railway that’s been taking skiers up the mountain since 1898. The resort is buzzy and glamorous, with a high concentration of gourmet restaurants, but it’s also possible to get away from it all by staying in mountain-top accommodation such as the Kulmhotel (3100 Kulmhotel Gornergrat, +41 27 966 6400; gornergrat-kulm.ch) or Riffelhaus 1853 (Riffelberg 2500m, +41 27 966 6500; riffelhaus.ch).

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POWDER POWER

MANIGOD, FRANCE At the heart of the Aravis region in HauteSavoie, Manigod is less than an hour from Geneva and a 35-minute drive from Annecy, above right – but it feels a million miles away. Natural, unspoilt and historic, it offers fine gastronomy and panoramic views at 1,500 metres high. Manigod’s ski terrain is a neat 25 kilometres but is linked to La Clusaz, which, along with Le Grand Bornand and St-Jean-de-Sixt, forms part of Lake Annecy Ski Resorts.

MUST DO This area is the home of Reblochon cheese. Chow down at La Vieille Ferme restaurant (Route du Col de Merdassier, +33 450 024 149; la-vieilleferme-manigod.com) or stock up on a

visit to a local farm – the tourism offices of Haute-Savoie can advise on visits and tastings, while there’s an interactive map of producers at reblochonfermier.com. Work it off on the slopes afterwards with a paret sledging session; a single-blade wooden sledge that’s the emblem of Manigod – and great fun.

STAY Bunker down in a romantic chalet for two at Hotel de La Croix-Fry, above left. Snuggle in to soft sheepskin sofas, admire objets d’art and dine at La Table de Marie-Ange. Rates from €1,680 per week for a chalet for two. (Lieu-dit Pré Jean – Route du Col, +33 450 449 016; hotelchaletcroixfry.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Geneva five times per week.

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We want you.

To express yourself.

To speak up.

To astonish.

To lead.

To be you.

Kim

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SMART EDIT | WINTER BREAKS

WINTER SUN

AGADIR, MOROCCO The golden sands and balmy climate of Agadir are the perfect antidote to the winter blues.

Set in the Souss region of south-western Morocco, most of the city had to be rebuilt after an earthquake destroyed it in 1960.

Today, it’s a busy beach resort and port with a Western feel but intrepid visitors will also find lovely hidden spots.

MUST DO Wander around and buy Souss valley produce at the Souk Al-Had market. If that doesn’t prove exhaustive enough, walk up to the hilltop ruins of Agadir’s old Kasbah.

Afterwards, reflect on what you’ve seen at the

Memoire d’Agadir, a small museum dedicated to the earthquake (visitagadir.com).

STAY Agadir has a population of half a million people but the Sofitel Agadir Thalassa Sea & Spa – a new, five-star hotel resort – feels like a cocoon of calm, with its own private beach. Holistic therapists, nutritionists and sports coaches are also on hand to help you make the most of its seawater treatments and wellness facilities. Rooms from €168 per night. (Baie des Palmiers, Cité Founty P5, Secteur Touristique, +212 528 388 000; sofitel.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Agadir every Saturday.

URBAN APPEAL

TORONTO, CANADA Torontonians have to wrap up superwarm for winter months but they also enjoy a host of activities, from ice hockey and skating to cross-country skiing. Christmas markets run through December at the Distillery Historic District, gorgeous food at St Lawrence market and fantastic skyline views across Lake Ontario.

MUST DO There’s an ice-skating rink at virtually every corner, many of them municipal and ranging from tiny to vast. Get your skates on at Nathan Phillips Square, above. (nathanphillipssquareskaterentals.com).

It’s set amid the city’s tall buildings with a massive Christmas tree and just a $10 fee for two hours’ skating. For hip, indie-shopping and cafés, head to Queen Street West.

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STAY The Windsor Arms Hotel is situated just steps from the exclusive Bloor/Yorkville shopping area. The hotel dates back to 1927 and, while it was rebuilt in the 1990s, retains a sense of old-world charm with 1920s French-style lounge rooms.

Indulge in afternoon tea behind red velvet drapes in the Russian Red tea room and delight in the Treasure Chest, the hotel’s own vintage store. Rooms from €249.

(18 St Thomas Street, +1 416 971 9666; windsorarmshotel.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toronto three times per week, and onwards with partner airlines to destinations throughout Canada.

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SMART EDIT | WINTER BREAKS

WILDERNESS WONDERMENT

DONEGAL, IRELAND With some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe at Slieve League, Glenveagh National Park and the wild magnificence of the Bluestack mountains, Donegal is a world apart and the perfect spot for winter adventures – think early-morning winter hikes or bracing walks on Blue Flag beaches, followed by delicious food and comforting turf fires.

MUST DO Take a hike in the Bluestacks (donegalbluestacks.ie), soaking up the history of the area as you go. Look out for tiny O’Donnells Island on Lough Eske, where the eponymous family once kept prisoners.

Slightly further afield is Glenveagh National Park (glenveaghnationalpark.ie), the second largest national park in Ireland, boasting

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a castle, 170 kilometres of lakes, mountains, glens and woods – and home to the country’s largest herd of red deer.

STAY Situated on the shores of Lough Eske, the four-star Harvey’s Point hotel is just ten minutes from Donegal town and offers winter activity breaks. Guests who are lucky enough to own one can bring their own horse, with stabling and grazing available on the grounds, and access to off-road riding around the lake. Book a suite, sample some game from the Lakeside Restaurant’s winter gourmet menu and relax with a digestif in front of a cosy turf fire. Rooms from €356. (Lough Eske, 074 972 2208; harveyspoint.ie)

2014

WEDDING AWARDS WINNER

DESTINATION | HARTFORD

48 hours in

HARTFORD

History, art and ace eats – Connecticut’s capital is a breath of fresh air, says Niamh Wade.

Downtime at BEER Sprawled across nine levels, City Steam Brewery is a beer lovers’ dream, its craft ale choices as vast as its original architectural features from its days as a 19th-century department store. Try the artisan bread, baked using malted barley from the brewhouse and, for a laugh, take a seat at the Brew HaHa comedy club. (942 Main Street, +1 860 525 1600; citysteam.biz)

Don’t Miss ART Reopened in September 2015 following a five-year $33 million renovation, Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art (600 Main Street, +1 860 278 2670; thewadsworth.org), above, boasts some 50,000 American and European artworks spanning 5,000 years. The Beaux Arts Memorial Building has been restored to its former glory, while 17 new gallery spaces are there for the pacing. Be sure to recaffeinate at the café. For smaller-scale art appreciation, New Britain Museum of American Art is a 15-minute jaunt out of town.

(56 Lexington Street, +1 860 229 0257; nbmaa.org) LITERARY Does The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn still have a place on your bookshelf? If so, put the Mark Twain House and Museum on your itinerary. The author resided here from 1874 to 1891, penning most of his works in the billiard room. Learn about his life and works through the plethora of artefects. (351 Farmington Avenue, +1 860 247 0998; marktwainhouse.org) 106 |

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GEEKERY With 150 interactive exhibits, Connecticut Science Center, above, is a fun and educational experience for all ages. Not only does it host live events, music and science demos, its 3D cinema screens natural history and science documentaries. The exhibition Leonardo da Vinci: Machines in Motion opens on January 30. (250 Columbus Boulevard, +1 860 520 2160; ctsciencecenter.org)

Clockwise from top, the grand Connecticut State Capitol in Bushnell Park; stargazing at Connecticut Science Center; Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art has had quite the revamp.

CINEMA Step back in time to the 1930s at Cine Studio, which recreates the golden age of movie theatres. Located on the grounds of Trinity College, this 500-seat, single-screen, indie cinema welcomes fans of cult classics and leftof-centre movies. (300 Summit Street, +1 860 297 2544; cinestudio.org) CAROUSEL Celebrating its 101st birthday this year, the Bushnell Park Carousel is worth a whirl. Designed by Stein and Goldstein and one of only three left in the world, this fairground attraction costs just $1 for a 3.5-minute spin – so hop on one of the 48 handcarved wooden horses, or cosy up in a lovers’ chariot. (95 Riverside Avenue, +1 860 585 5411; thecarouselmuseum.org)

Sleep at MODERN For its great location and business amenities, the riverside Hartford Marriott Downtown, right, is a smart choice. With more than 400 comfortable rooms, a fitness suite and spa – alongside its Vivo Italian and Mediterranean restaurant, and Crush bar – it’s a solid all-rounder. Rooms from $299. (200 Columbus Boulevard, +1 860 249 8000; marriott.com) COSY If home-cooked breakfasts – and white chocolate and lavender scones – are your vice, Connecticut River Valley Inn does the job. A short trip from the centre, this charming guesthouse has unique bedrooms warmed by gas fires, original art created by the innkeeper, and garden views. Rooms from $185 (2195 Main Street, Glastonbury, +1 860 633 7374; connecticutrivervalleyinn.com)

HISTORIC Even though it’s listed on the National Register of Historic Places and offers four-poster beds, Simsbury 1820 House, right, has modern luxuries in each of its 32 bedrooms. Sip on a complimentary glass of sherry in the parlour while admiring the carved woodwork and fireplaces, or unwind in the nearby health club. Rooms from $125.

(731 Hopmeadow Street, Simsbury, +1 860 658 7658; simsbury1820house.com)

Clockwise from left, the Marriott Downtown hotel; Simsbury 1820 House; and fresh catch at Max’s Oyster Bar.

Eat at CREATIVE The Pond House Café in Elizabeth Park makes for a pleasant pit-stop all year round. Bordered by a lush vegetable and herb garden, it offers seasonal menus with a patio popular throughout the year thanks to a cosy fire-pit. In summer, the Dog House sells take-out snacks – for both dog and dogwalker. (1555 Asylum Avenue, +1 860 231 8823; pondhousecafe.com)

KAREN PHILIPPI

LIVELY If you like your food washed down with terrific on-tap beers, try Trumbull Kitchen (150 Trumbull Street, +1 860 493 7412; maxrestaurantgroup. com/trumbull), which serves American staples with a Far Eastern twist. Also, two large communal tables are great for groups. And its sister restaurant, Max’s Oyster Bar (964 Farmington Avenue, +1 860 236 6299; maxrestaurantgroup.com/ oyster), serves a mouth-watering array of shellfish and New England favourites (chowdaah!).

Prop up the bar at Firebox, which plugs into the farmto-table movement.

LOCAL The trend for farm-to-table cuisine is showing no signs of slowing down and Firebox sources produce from nearby suppliers. There are endless options to help quash hunger pangs, including tapas for smaller,

or multifarious, appetites. Sweet tooth? Three words: Pots de Crème.

(539 Broad Street, +1 860 246 1222; fireboxrestaurant.com) TREAT The small, family-run doughnut shop Tastease may be hazardous for waistlines but its assorted iced and cream-filled marvels are well worth the indulgence. (70 New Park Avenue, +1 860 233 2235)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS recently announced a new service between Dublin and HARTFORD starting September 28, 2016.

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ADVERTORIAL

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On Business

Making travel work for you

Rheinturm tower (Rhine Tower), a Düsseldorf landmark.

Towering achievements Düsseldorf has forged its prosperity through a solid foundation of coal and steel industries. But a bright, creative scene is also propelling the wheels of affluence for the city by the Rhine, as Ingmar Kiang discovers.

ELLY WALTON

Business

espite the fact that the word dorf means village, the good burghers of Düsseldorf inhabit one of the most sophisticated, productive and prosperous regions in Europe. Visitors to the city will be immediately impressed by its confident architecture and hyper-efficient transport systems –

D

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to DÜSSELDORF twice per week, starting May 4, 2016.

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infrastructure that rests on the solid industrial foundations of the Ruhr’s coal and steel industries.

Today however, while still hugely important, heavy industry has been overtaken by Düsseldorf’s service sector, which includes telecommunications, fashion, retail, international trade fairs, financial services and media. The city is now home to more than 400 advertising agencies (including three of the largest in Germany, as well as major international players such as BBDO and Grey), plus 1,500 IT companies and 40 internet service providers.

This vibrant landscape has helped spawn a busy creative scene: the advertising business alone supports numerous photographers, graphic designers, recording studios, film production companies and modelling agencies. Startups

abound, particularly in fashion, where an ambitious young designer can open a boutique safe in the knowledge that there are plenty of well-heeled customers about.

It’s not all about the money though. The home of electronic music pioneers Kraftwerk has a long tradition as a centre of learning and culture, with 42 universities and colleges, and dozens of theatres, museums and galleries. There’s fun to be had too, at “the longest bar in the world” – the 250 pubs and breweries crammed into the single square kilometre of the Old Town (the Altstadt). Just make sure you order Alt beer, the indigenous brew. The locals may take offence if asked for Kölsch, which hails from neighbouring rival Cologne.

Remember, you’re in Düsseldorf ... perhaps it’s still a village after all.

Eat at ...

MICHELIN-STARRED Jean-Claude Bourgueil, left, has been serving classic French cuisine since 1977 and he now runs Im Schiffchen, one of only two restaurants in Düsseldorf with two Michelin stars. In Michelinspeak, this translates as “Excellent cuisine, worth a detour” – though visitors to the city will not be overly inconvenienced by the restaurant’s location in the Old Town. Im Schiffchen’s uniformly excellent food, service and wine list have prompted many to rate it as one of Europe’s finest restaurants. A seven-course menu is available for €174.

(Kaiserswerther Markt 9, +49 211 401 050; im-schiffchen.com)

JAPANESE It may be part of an international chain, but there’s nothing generic or “Westernised” about Kushi-Tei of Tokyo and, on any given day, many or most of its clients are from Düsseldorf’s huge Japanese community. While offering everything you’d expect from an upmarket Japanese restaurant – beautifully fresh sushi, right, ramen and spicy broths – its specialty of charcoal-grilled meats (crispy outside, succulent within) is the real highlight. A great spot for a quick lunch too.

(Immermannstrasse 38, +49 211 360 935; brickny.com/kushitei-de)

PIZZA Every city needs a casual, unpretentious spot serving great pizza, and What’s Pizza has been an instant hit since opening last summer. It’s a self-service and build-your-own type of place, super-fast and to the point.

Authentic Neapolitan bases – the ones with the slightly burned crusts, above, – are speedily baked in a golden oven with your choice of toppings. Bring your pizza to the communal dining table and meet the locals while you eat. (Immermannstrasse 18, +49 700 3333 3333; facebook.com/whatspizza)

TRADITIONAL Anyone who feels that German food involves little more than pork, frites and sauerkraut, left, is unlikely to revise that opinion after a visit to Schweine Janes: it’s practically all they do. But they do it supremely well, with huge portions of slow-cooked meat falling off the bone, encased in the best crackling imaginable. With a couple of beers, this cheap ‘n’ cheerful eatery can deliver a truly memorable dining experience.

(Bolkerstrasse 13, the Altstadt, 40213 Düsseldorf, +49 211 131 449; schweinejanes.de) AERLINGUS.COM |

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Business

Stay at ...

SPLURGE During its 200-year history, the Breidenbacher Hof, right, has played host to Prussian princes and Russian Czars. Totally rebuilt in 2005, with every amenity available and consistently high user-ratings, this thoroughly modern five-star should be on any affluent visitor’s shortlist. Accommodation is offered at four levels of luxury, with even standard rooms featuring acres of space, king-size beds and hi-tech touch-panel controls for lighting and air-conditioning. A first-class establishment, with prices to match. Single room from €252. (Königsallee 11, +49 211 160 900; capellahotels.com/Düsseldorf)

MID-RANGE Newly opened in 2015, the Derag Livinghotel De Medici, left, is a spectacular and ambitious addition to Düsseldorf’s hospitality sector. Located on the site of a monastery in the Old Town, the hotel’s USP consists of three conference rooms with high ceilings and beautiful artworks, and space for up to 180 guests – just the place to make an impression. The rest of the hotel – its rooms, bars, restaurant and fitness centre – are of an excellent standard. Single room from €168. (Mühlenstrasse 31, +49 211 160 920; deraghotels.de/hotel-de-mediciduesseldorf/en) 112 |

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VALUE Conveniently located close to the business district, city centre and airport, the Wieland offers great bang for your business buck. The hotel is ownermanaged, and its sleek design and modern artworks echo the friendly efficiency with which it is run. Rooms are not huge, but more than adequate for a business trip.

Due to the hotel’s growing reputation for value, advance booking is recommended.

Single room from €79. (Wielandstrasse 8, +49 211 173 000; hotel-wieland.de) BUDGET Behind a decidedly unprepossessing exterior, the Sir and Lady Astor ticks all the boxes as a boutique hotel. Its rooms are individually decorated in a stylishly eccentric fashion – they call it “Scotland meets Africa” – with tartan carpets and 1930s style furniture in the public areas. Service is what you’d expectbut-don’t-always-get from a small hotel: charming and personable. There’s also a small, tranquil garden, and the breakfast is an absolute winner. Single room from €74.

(Kurfurstenstrasse 23, +49 211 936 090; sir-astor.de)

Business

Downtime at ...

CARNIVAL Historically, Düsseldorf’s parade originated as an opportunity for locals to poke fun at the ruling Prussians’ love of order and punctuality.

A celebration of daft costumes and silliness such as barrow racing, it runs through the winter months, climaxing in a giant parade on February 8. Well-dressed gentlemen can expect to have their ties snipped in half in exchange for a lady’s kiss. karneval-in-duesseldorf.de ART The city has a legitimate claim to be the arts capital of Germany, with 26 museums and more than 100 galleries within its boundaries. Highlights include the Kunstakademie, where both Paul Klee and Josef Beuys were teachers; K20, pictured, which houses works by Picasso, Matisse and Ernst, and the tiny Kunst im Tunnel, with its rapid turnover of zeitgeistdefining modern art. art-in-duesseldorf.de CYCLE TOUR With its flat topography, compact dimensions and numerous cycle paths, Düsseldorf is easily viewed by bike. The tourist board runs guided tours for groups of ten or more, covering 13 kilometres in a leisurely two hours, with the promise that cyclists can see almost all the city’s attractions without getting out of the saddle. (Düsseldorf Marketing & Tourismus GmbH Postfach 10 21 63, +49 211 1720 2854; duesseldorf-tourismus.de) SHOPPING Düsseldorf’s Königsallee – universally referred to as “the Kö” – is now one of Europe’s premier fashion districts, rivalling the best that Paris and Milan can offer. A magnet for Russian oligarchs and their fur-clad girlfriends, it’s a pleasant tree-lined boulevard, with plenty of cafés ideal for people-watching. Those with more adventurous – dare we say hipster?

– tastes should head for the Flingern, Unterbilk and Pempelfort districts, home to the city’s new creative class.

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Business

COCKTAILS The guys at Beuys know their drinks ... and if you can’t find what you want on the 15-page menu, the barman will make it for you. A great spot to start a night on the Old Town, though its chic décor and funky jazz soundtrack may keep you there until the small hours. Expert cocktails, seductive ambience, reasonable prices.

(Neubrückstrasse 2, +49 173 960 3109; beuys-bar.com) CULTURAL An antidote to Düsseldorf’s myriad four-on-the-floor techno clubs, Zakk provides a varied menu of live music acts – everything from rock bands to flamenco dancing – to a more mature clientele. The venue also hosts literary readings and family-friendly events. A little out of the way, but worth the detour for a cultural experience beyond the mainstream. (Fichtenstrasse 40, +49 211 973 0010; zakk.de)

CHRISA RALLI

Play at ...

CLUB Located inside the Kunsthalle, the Salon des Amateurs is officially the museum’s café – but it actually functions as a club, a cross between an arty Haçienda and a posh student bar. None of the DJs are household names, and few even have ambitions to become known beyond the local underground scene. Expect obscure electronic music so cutting edge it should come with a health warning.

(Grabbeplatz 4, +49 211 171 2830; salondesamateurs.de)

LOFTY Located on the 16th floor of the new Innside Düsseldorf Hafen, The View is a spacious hotel bar that offers the best views in the city – a panoramic vista overlooking the Rhine and the Aldstadt’s rooftops. Things get lively at night when the DJ kicks off, though the venue perhaps works best for a reflective sundowner. (Speditionstrasse 9, Hafen, +49 211 447 170; theview-duesseldorf.de)

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Business

A Day in the Life

Paul Carty is managing director of Dublin’s Guinness Storehouse, which was recently voted Europe’s Leading Tourist Attraction at the World Travel Awards. flavours, of course. For me, breaking bread together is a great, convivial way of building business relationships. It breaks down any barriers and makes for effective discussion.

7am I get out of bed to the dulcet tones of RTÉ’s Morning Ireland on the radio. I really love my job so I have no problems getting up for work.

I bring tea in the car with me and arrive at the office for 7.45am. My office is in the Guinness Storehouse itself, formerly a Guinness fermentation plant, in the heart of the St James’s Gate brewery.

9am My day consists of many meetings but I’m very fortunate to have an excellent assistant, Stella, who maps out my day. My background is in hotel management so I’m a big advocate of MBWA – “management by walking around” – which I do every SLÁINTE! Guinness Storehouse celebrates 15 years this December 2015 and is open seven days a week, excluding December 24-26. Adult admission is €20, which includes a complimentary pint of Guinness. guinness-storehouse.com

day. Being out on the floor is the only way to understand the business. We welcome an average of 4,000 people per day so it’s crucial to engage as much as possible with the paying visitor.

11am I meet with heads of department – frequent planning and strategy meetings are vital. More than 60 per cent of all leisure visitors to Dublin visit the Storehouse – 13 million visitors since opening 15 years ago –

so we’re constantly looking to improve and maintain our position. For example, when we opened, 60 per cent of our business was from the UK and USA. With the advent of greater air travel, our visitor profile is much more diverse so we now offer audio guides in a range of languages.

Lunch I often have lunch with business or industry contacts in one of our restaurants on the fifth floor – our chef Justin O’Connor uses Guinness

3pm I have regular external meetings with members of the tourism industry. Having recently enjoyed tenure as chair of ITIC (Irish Tourist Industry Confederation), I’m proud and happy to be a representative for Irish tourism, which supports more than 220,000 jobs and contributes over €6.5 billion to the exchequer. It’s very important to me that we work as part of the wider industry to support tourism growth throughout Ireland.

After hours If I’m not at an industry event – I believe that the best way to have strong profile is through networking – I’m at home with my beloved wife of 34 years, Aggie, and our dog Daisy.

My family knows to leave me alone for a good hour to zap through all the international news channels!

PAUL’S TOP ATTRACTIONS ABROAD

CHURCHILL WAR ROOMS, LONDON The secret underground headquarters where Winston Churchill lived and worked during the Second World War is now a fascinating museum, telling the story through press cuttings, newsreels and artefacts. iwm.org.uk

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THE MGM GRAND HOTEL AND CASINO, LAS VEGAS For me, it’s not about the gambling but the variety of things to see and do. This impressive hotel, on the south end of the Strip, is so huge that they take you to your room in a golf buggy! mgmgrand.com

THE COLOSSEUM, ROME This is a fascinating visitor experience. It’s awful to think what it was originally built for – the gladiators battling it out – but it’s also amazing to see how it has survived for so long in bustling Rome. archeoroma.beniculturali.it

At the heart of business in Ireland

The KPMG name and logo are registered trademarks or trademarks of KPMG International

Business

1

LUGGAGE Inject some effortless French chic into your airport dashes with Delsey’s new Chatelet + Soft collection, which includes a stylish cabin trolley (£225, left). It also has brakes so you can freeze the wheels while you’re on moving buses or trains. Handy. delsey.com

2

3 ACCESSORY Super-light but roomy enough to hold a passport, up to ten cards, receipts and cash, the Allett RFID Passport Wallet is made from soft leather and features a concealed RFID blocking lining to protect against credit card fraud. £34.99 at stuffa.co.uk.

BUSINESS

BOOK Body language, public speaking and confidence-building tricks are just a handful of topics covered in psychologist Dr Rob Yeung’s How to Stand Out (Capstone, £10.99).

Drawing on university and employer research, Yeung aims to help readers get ahead at work. amazon.ie

TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes looks at must-haves, stays and events of the season.

4

EVENT Find out how virtual assistants such as Siri can make your business more efficient at San Francisco’s Virtual Assistant Summit, January 28-29, 2016. Its line-up includes 50 speakers, plus there’ll be network opportunities aplenty with experts in predictive intelligence. re-work.co

5

APP There’s a sea of city guide apps available, but the slick (and free) Gogobot stands out for its personalised insider know-how. Choose your city and pick from 19 available Tribes (think Foodies, LGBT, Artsy, etc) to access some 900,000 reviews of hotspots recommended by like-minded travellers. gogobot.com

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7

GADGET Miss desktop typing on your tablet or phone? Work on any three devices in any location with the Logitech K380 Multi-Device Bluetooth Keyboard. From €44.99 at logitech.com.

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ACCESSORY Promising superb sound quality while you’re on the move, the digital Sony NW-ZX100HN Walkman features up to 45 hours of continuous playback, while its hi-res, noise-cancelling headphones are ideal for life on the road. €659 from sony.ie.

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STAY A 17th-century landmark turned boutique hotel, Amsterdam’s The Dylan has a business-ready overnight package that includes shoe polishing, shirt pressing, express check-out and more, from €395 per person. dylanamsterdam.com

ALL-NEW JAGUAR XF

THIS IS NOT BUSINESS AS USUAL.

There’s nothing usual about the All-New Jaguar XF. Our new ultra-efficient Ingenium i4 Diesel engine delivers up to 70.6mpg and as low as 104g/km of CO2. The lightweight aluminium architecture combined with our Electric Power Assisted Steering delivers a unique driving experience.

And from only €43,205* plus a Free 3 Year Service Plan with Jaguar Care, you’ll find the new Jaguar XF is anything but expected.

Book your test drive at jaguar.ie

*Price quoted is for the Jaguar XF 2.0 D Business Edition. Official fuel consumption figures for the XF range in l/100km: Urban 4.8 – 11.9, Extra Urban: 3.6 – 6.7, Combined 4.0 – 8.6. Co2 emissions 104 – 204g/km.

XF. FROM ONLY €43,205*

Business

HOTEL REVIEW

PARK UP Made for Manhattan, Marmara Park Avenue is what American dreams are made of, says Niamh Wade.

Hotel or modern art gallery? On arrival, the striking Marmara Park Avenue – the Marmara Collection’s flagship property – could be confused for the latter, what with its faceted, blackened steel vestibule and sculptural bird abacus in the lobby. The former home of design and architecture studios – and just steps away from the Empire State Building – this 21-storey building dating back to 1927 was aptly chosen. Clutter is absent thanks to interior designer Joe Ginsberg: think understated Manhattan glamour, with apartment-style rooms, suites and duplexes bearing hardwood floors, cutting-edge appliances and iPad Airs connected to a 24/7 virtual concierge. In true New York style, pets are welcome in all 128 rooms, 40 of which have private terraces. Guests can also make use of the Wellness Centre’s lap pool, cleansing steam bath and fitness centre. Rooms from $300. (114 East 32nd Street, +1 212 603 9000; park.marmaranyc.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York twice daily and from Shannon six times per week. A new daily service from Dublin to Newark starts September 1, 2016.

3 NEIGHBOURING NICETIES

The Morgan Library Looking for a digital-free zone? Be transported back to a world of written manuscripts, early printed books and art from the early 20th Century in stunning historical buildings, linked by an Italianate piazza to modern pavilions complete with restaurant, reading room and shop.

(225 Madison Avenue, +1 212 685 0008; themorgan.org) 120 |

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Madison Square Park Named after the fourth US president, James Madison, and open to the public since 1847. Expect chic locals and their furry friends in the Dog Run; happy children climbing in the playground and relaxed ramblers taking in the scents of Bridget’s Garden and the Lilac Grove. (Madison Avenue, +1 212 538 1884; madisonsquarepark.org)

Eataly Food Emporium Where to start, or stop ... For foodie Italophiles, these 4,650 square metres – seven restaurants, speciality counters and a market to pick up fresh fare – are a must-visit. There’s also a huge selection of Italian cookbooks (from Molto Gusto to The Silver Spoon) to pore over and purchase. (200 Fifth Avenue; +1 212 229 2560; eataly.com)

PRIVATE CLIENTS

DAVY MADE A DIFFERENCE THAT MATTERS TO ME. You don’t accumulate money for its own sake. You want to use your resources to make a better life and create bigger opportunities in the future. That’s why Davy takes a holistic approach – working with you to create a Financial Life Plan and investment strategy that aims to make a difference to you and your family.

With Davy, it’s a relationship.

Start yours today.

Call 01 614 8778 or visit davy.ie/future

The value of investments may fall as well as rise.

J & E Davy, trading as Davy, is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.

Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT DAVID WALSH, managing director of Merrion Vaults studied finance in UCC. During that time he set up his first business, Citybox Advertising, which successfully expanded into the UK soon after.

In 2013, David founded Merrion Vaults, the first independent safe deposit box facility in Ireland.

Merrion Gold, their trading division, operates from the vaults and is a significant supplier of gold bullion. Earlier this year, Glasgow Vaults and Scottish Bullion also opened for business.

1

Trust your instinct

If you truly believe that you have a great idea, follow your gut. Remember, a business is like a child, it requires constant supervision. You have to continually feed your business with new skills and new ideas.

2

Learn from your experiences

The worst job I ever had was a summer job polishing brass on the steps of an electronics retailer in Cork. Eventually they gave me a job selling, which was great. I learned so much from the people I worked with there. This, I feel, is where I really cut my teeth and learnt what makes people tick and how best to sell.

3

Appreciate your support network My father has been the most

inspiring person on my business journey. He was an accountant and I cannot emphasise enough the importance of having support and a great accountant on your side.

4

Think locally I started Citybox UK more

than ten years ago. It is the largest mall media business in the UK today. What I learnt from the experience is that, culturally, we are quite different, and employing local people to engage on your behalf is far more productive in the long run.

5

You must always leave the door open Every industry is tiny so try

6

Surround yourself with positive people I love America and

not to make enemies on your journey. If there is confrontation, be diplomatic. You never know when you will bump into the same person in business again. I believe in the saying “You meet everyone in this life at least twice”.

go there quite often. They really have a can-do attitude. Positivity is ingrained in their psyche, and that is very infectious. I go there for a fix!

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Continuing to deliver construction solutions Building in Ireland for 59 years; it’s in our DNA

• • • • • • • • • •

FDI Hi-tech Facilities Biopharma Pharmaceutical Cleanrooms Agri-Dairy-Food Refurb & Fit-out Mechanical & electrical Healthcare Infrastructure PPP Investment

Contact: Mike Jones 087 6297738

www.bamireland.ie

Building tomorrow’s infrastructure for our global clients Dornan is an Irish owned, International engineering and contracting company, specialising in the provision of; · Mechanical · Electrical · Instrumentation Services We have extensive experience across a wide range of construction sectors.

Our growth is primarily driven by repeat business from our clients, demonstrating their confidence in Dornan to deliver projects where Safety and Quality are the priority.

Visit us on www.dornangroup.com Interested in being part of our winning team: www.dornangroup.com/careers

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Flying with Aer Lingus

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

126 Welcome aboard 127 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 144 Our Route Networks 148 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Movies to North America 131 Movies from North America 132 Our Classic Movie Selection 135 Television On Demand 138 Radio On Demand 139 Music On Demand

Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

h words Useful Iris ses and phra

Why not try speaking a few words e of the native languag while you are visiting Ireland!

me Fáilte Welco ello Dia dhuit H ill Goodbye Slán go fó is... m My name o d m in a ...is you? tú? How are Conas atá ood ma ith I’m g Tá mé go eers Sláinte! Ch u gat Thank yo a h it a m h Go ra ib me scéal Excuse h it le o m h Gab

Cara Friend

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going.

Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page.

Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Knock

Kerry

Cork

Edinburgh Newcastle

Belfast Isle of Man Dublin

Liverpool Birmingham

Amsterdam

What cities do Aer Lingus fly to and connect to?

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff Newquay

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands

Exeter

London (Gatwick)

Southampton

Jersey

Brussels

Paris

Stuttgart

Rennes Nantes Geneva

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Lyon

Milan (Malpensa)

View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.

A SS IS TA N CE

If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you.

When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Shannon

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Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information.

See page 144 for full route maps

ETA IL S CO N TA CT D

.com nce@aerlingus specialassista 365 011 Ireland (0818) on–Fri 09:00–17:00 M t & Sun 10:00–16:00 Sa nk Holidays 10:00–16:00 Ba 20 21 UK (0871) 718 886 8333 1 53 Europe +3 2 4222 USA (516) 62

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times.

We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

On A330 aircraft, to avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, devices must be switched off flight mode once advised that it is safe to do so by crew.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

ARE YOU READY FOR TAKE-OFF AND LANDING? 

Is your mobile phone and/or other portable electronic device in 'flight mode'?



Is your seatback fully upright?



Is your armrest down?



Is your tabletop stowed?



Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

ON Airplane

Mode

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting.

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off.

Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach.

You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

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Your comfort and safety

KEEP MOVING

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:



Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.



Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another passenger (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.



Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and to reduce jet lag.

We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a passenger on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. Similarly, behaviour or language towards other passengers or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Airbus 330-

200

For your Safety

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Airbus 319

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Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

Mode

Mode

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

EYE CARE If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

TIME ZONES Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone more quickly.

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BRILLIANT Inc is a diamond lover’s paradise.

We specialise in fine jewellery set with simulated diamonds - stunning in both price and beauty!

€250

Tel 020 7259 9555 41 DUKE OF YORK’S, SLOANE SQUARE, LONDON SW3 4LY EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE AT BROWN THOMAS, DUBLIN

www.brilliantinc.co.uk

€235

Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action

Mission Impossible: Rogue Nation 131 mins

PG13

Hitman: Agent 47

R

Learning To Drive

PG13

With the IMF now disbanded and Ethan Hunt out in the cold, a new threat – called the Syndicate – soon emerges. The Syndicate is a network of highly skilled operatives who are dedicated to establishing a new world order. Faced with what may be the most impossible mission yet, Ethan gathers his team and joins forces with Ilsa Faust, a disavowed British agent. Stars Tom Cruise, Rebecca Ferguson, Jeremy Renner.

EN FR DE ES

Comedy

Action

Fantastic Four (2015)

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Drama

Documentary

R

Ricki And The Flash

PG13

100 mins Four young outsiders teleport to another universe. Stars Miles Teller, Kate Mara, Michael B Jordan

96 mins A trained assassin has been genetically engineered. Stars Rupert Friend, Hannah Ware

90 mins Wendy is shocked to reality by the end of her marriage. Stars Grace Gummer, Ben Kingsley, Patricia Clarkson

101 mins A guitar heroine returns home to her family after touring. Stars Meryl Streep, Mamie Gummer, Kevin Kline

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Drama

Batkid Begins

PG

87 mins A city comes together to grant a cancer patient his wish. Stars Teresa Clovicko, Audrey Copper, Katie Cotton EN

Bridge of Spies

PG13

135 mins An American lawyer is recruited by the CIA. Stars Tom Hanks, Alan Alda, Amy Ryan, Austin Stowell EN

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

End Of The Tour

R

Paper Towns

PG13

The Gift

R

Inside Out

PG

Paper Planes

106 mins David Lipsky interviews author David Foster Wallace. Stars Jason Segel, Jesse Eisenberg, Anna Chlumsky

109 mins A young man‘s crush disappears and he goes to find her. Stars Nat Wolff, Cara Delevingne, Austin Abrams, Justice Smith

108 mins A young married couple‘s lives are thrown into a tailspin. Stars Jason Bateman, Rebecca Hall, Joel Edgerton

94 mins Riley’s emotions conflict when she moves to a new city. Stars Amy Poehler, Bill Hader, Lewis Black

96 mins A young boy enters the World Paper Plane Championships. Stars Ed Oxenbould, Sam Worthington, Julian Dennison

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN ES

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EN PG

FR DE IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action Southpaw 124 mins

R

Billy ‘The Great‘ Hope, the reigning junior middleweight boxing champion, has an impressive career, a loving wife and daughter, and a lavish lifestyle. However, when tragedy strikes, Billy hits rock bottom. He soon finds an unlikely savior in Tick Willis, a former fighter who trains the city‘s toughest amateur boxers. Stars Jake Gyllenhaal, Rachel McAdams, Forest Whitaker, Oona Laurence.

EN FR DE IT ES

Action

American Ultra

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Comedy

R

96 mins A stoner is targeted for extermination by the CIA. Stars Jesse Eisenberg, Kristen Stewart, Connie Britton EN

Pixels

PG13

106 mins Aliens attack Earth in the form of the video games. Stars Adam Sandler, Kevin James, Michelle Monaghan

The Man from U.N.C.L.E.

PG13

116 mins CIA agents work to stop criminals from making a bomb. Stars Henry Cavill, Armie Hammer, Alicia Vikander

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

89 mins A chance encounter sparks a life-changing journey. Stars Chris Evans, Alice Eve, Emma Fitzpatrick, Scott Evans EN

Drama

Documentary

Before We Go

Mistress America

R

Vacation

84 mins A college freshman gets pulled into some wacky schemes. Seth Barrish, Juliet Brett, Andrea Chen, Michael Chernus

99 mins Rusty Griswold takes his family on a trip to Walley World. Stars Ed Helms, Christina Applegate, Skyler Gisondo

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

R

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Straight Outta Compton 147 mins The story surrounding NWA‘s formation and influence. Stars O'Shea Jackson Jr, Corey Hawkins, Jason Mitchell EN FR DE ES

R

The Wolfpack

R

Mr Holmes

PG

Frozen

PG

Minions

EN PG

90 mins A documentary about seven brothers confined to their home. Bhagavan Angulo, Govinda Angulo, Jagadisa Angulo

104 mins Mr Holmes finds himself haunted by an unsolved case. Stars Ian McKellen, Laura Linney, Milo Parker, Hiroyuki Sanada

102 mins Queen Elsa mistakenly curses her home into infinite winter. Stars Kristen Bell, Idina Menzel, Jonathan Groff

91 mins The minions venture out into the world to find a new boss. Stars Sandra Bullock, Jon Hamm, Michael Keaton

EN

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

FR DE IT SP

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

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We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America.

Timeless favourites such as Ice Age and The Goonies are available, as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.

Our Classic Movie Selection

Black Swan

R

108 mins Stars Natalie Portman, Mila Kunis, Vincent Cassel EN FR DE IT ES

PG

97 mins Stars Will Ferrell, James Caan, Bob Newhart EN FR DE IT ES

LA Confidential

R

138 mins Stars Kevin Spacey, Russell Crowe

Moulin Rouge

PG13

EN FR DE IT

PG13

The Hobbit: Desolation Of Smaug

Fantastic Mr Fox

PG

87 mins Stars George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Bill Murray EN FR DE IT ES

127 mins Stars Nicole Kidman, Ewan McGregor

EN

The Goonies

Elf

PG13

Ocean‘s 11 (2001 )

PG13

Garden State

PG

Hangover III

102 mins Stars Zach Braff, Peter Sarsgaard, Natalie Portman

100 mins Stars Heather Graham, Jeffrey Tambor, Zach Galifianakis

EN ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Sideways

R

Singin‘ in the Rain

R

G

116 mins Stars George Clooney, Julia Roberts

126 mins Stars Paul Giamatti, Thomas Haden Church, Virginia Madsen

103 mins Stars Gene Kelly, Debbie Reynolds Donald O’Connor

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR IT ES

The Lego Movie

PG

The Notebook

114 mins Stars Sean Astin, Josh Brolin, Jeff Cohen

155 mins Stars Martin Freeman

101 mins Stars Chris Pratt, Will Ferrell, Elizabeth Banks

123 mins Stars Gena Rowlands, James Garner

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

PG13

The Prestige

Harry Potter PG13 Home and the Prisoner Alone 2: Lost of Azkaban in New York

Ice Age 2: PG The Meltdown

142 mins Stars Daniel Radcliffe

120 mins Stars Macaulay Culkin, Joe Pesci

91 mins Stars Ray Romano, John Leguizamo

EN

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

The Bourne Supremacy

PG13

108 mins Stars Matt Damon, Franka Potente, Joan Allen EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

PG

The Sound Of Music

G

The Curious Case Of Benjamin Button

PG13

The Devil PG13 Wears Prada

166 mins Stars Brad Pitt

109 mins Stars Anne Hathaway, Meryl Streep

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

Training Day

R

True Romance

130 mins Stars Christian Bale, Hugh Jackman

174 mins Stars Julie Andrews, Christopher Plummer

122 mins Stars Denzel Washington, Ethan Hawke

120 mins Stars Christian Slater, Patricia Arquette

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN

EN

R

Irish Shorts and Features

A Doctor’s Sword

PG13

Céad Ghrá

70 mins Stars Jordanne Jones, Dafhyd Flynn, James Kelly

11 mins Stars Brandon Maher, Jordan Roche, Tadgh Moran

EN

EN

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PG

Pursuit

PG13

95 mins Stars Ruth Bradley, Barry Ward, Brendan Gleeson, Liam Cunningham EN

Rockmount 10 mins Stars Craig Keane Harrington

EN

PG

Sophie At The Races

10 mins Stars Michael Power, Siobhan O’Kelly, Susie Power EN

PG

Tea With The Dead

PG

7 mins Stars Frank Kelly, Patricia Gill

EN

The Genius Of George Boole 58 mins

EN

PG

Under Open Skies 12 mins

EN

PG

A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012

J

ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

S

ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for €5 each way.

Hooley Nights

For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €49.95 per person.

• • • •

AWARD WINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES

Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: info@jfp.ie

www.jfp.ie

www.facebook.com/Johnniefoxspub

SEAFOOD IS OUR SPECIALITY AWARDWINNING A LA CARTE MENU

We Wish You The Time of Your Life This Christmas and New Year from Staycity Aparthotels Staycity.com · London · Paris · Dublin · Manchester · Edinburgh · Liverpool · Birmingham

Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour Experience theHistory and Culture of Dublin

On the Hop-on Hop-off bus tour from Dublin Sightseeing • • • • •

Entertaining live commentary from Dublin’s best tour guides 27 years in operation, providing quality tours since 1988 Buses every 10-15 minutes from 9am Two Routes, the Original & Docklands Tour Fáilte Ireland Accredited Guides Buy discounted airport tickets at; T1 – Travel Information Desk, Arrivals Hall, Terminal 1 T1 & T2 – Airlink Ticket Machines

Dublin Sightseeing

greenbusdublin

Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows.

Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes.

Business

Bloomberg‘s Inside

This month, Bloomberg‘s Inside takes you behind the scenes of the world‘s largest toy company, Lego. In this episode we get a glimpse into Lego’s history, its production, its fans and the Lego family billionaires.

Also from Bloomberg are The Best of Davos 2015, bringing us highlights and coverage of the 2015 World Economic Forum, and The Entrepreneurs Making It, which introduces us to the new brand of entrepreneurs emerging in an-ever changing marketplace and examining what makes them tick.

Comedy

Modern Family

Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a cultural defining series. Now, with four consecutive Emmy Awards for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family returns with Season 6. Two episodes are available on board your Aer Lingus flight. Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate two new episodes of It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia.

Also on board are multiple episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Girls and Togetherness.

News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

Documentary

Building Ireland

Tune into Super Senses to explore the ‘super human‘ senses that some animals possess.

Also available on board are Bullit, which features an exclusive look at historic artworks, National Geographic‘s Megafactories and Cosmos: A Space Odyssey, hosted by astrophysicist, Neil DeGrasse Tyson. For more on Ireland and Irish culture, tune into Building Ireland, which explores the textile mills of Mayo, or Tracks and Trails featuring a journey along the Allen Canals.

Drama

Lifestyle

Project Runway All Stars

For more on Irish culture, food and music, tune into Other Voices, Kitchen Hero with Donal Skehan and Living the Wildlife, in which attempts to restore and improve habitats for the sea lamprey are examined. In this month’s episode of Video Killed the Radio Star we meet with iconic bands and artists, such as Guns ’n’ Roses, Fleetwood Mac, Metallica, A-Ha, Bon Jovi and Bryan Adams. Also available are Pawn Stars, The Art Of Sneakers, Project Runways All Stars and Jamie's Comfort Food.

Sport

As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of Game of Thrones, Better Call Saul and Vikings on offer, as well as multiple episodes from the highly acclaimed series, The Knick and a return to fan favourites, The Sopranos and The Wire.

Kids

Sofia The First

Days of My Youth

Sports fans shouldn‘t miss Focus 2, which takes the public behind the slick veneer of some of the most successful athletes on the planet to shine a light on their everyday battles, the shadow of retirement and the driving force that inspires them to keep beating the odds. Also on board are Days of My Youth (a must-watch for ski fans!), The Fast Lane for those with an interest in motorsport, and HSBC: Golfing World 2015.

Kids will surely enjoy Sofia The First – an animated series from Disney which features Sofia, an ordinary girl who becomes a princess overnight. Fans of Sofia The First may also enjoy charming animated series Pip Ahoy! or an imaginative episode of Rocka-Bye Island.

Teens may be more inclined to view and enjoy Austin and Ally, a sitcom about a young internet celebrity or Marvel‘s Avengers Assemble starring some much-loved comic characters.

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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets

Game of Thrones SEASON 5 HBO‘s television adaptation of George RR Martin‘s A Song of Ice and Fire novels, Game of Thrones, has wrapped up its fifth-season run in dramatic fashion. You‘ll find no spoilers here, naturally, but the plotlines of several major perspective characters, including Jon Snow, Cersei Lannister and Daenerys Targaryen have arrived at the points they‘ve been left hanging at in Martin‘s books.

His fifth, and to date last, novel in a supposed series of seven, A Dance with Dragons, was

published in 2011, the same year that the TV show began, and we've read nothing new since. Which puts showrunners David Benioff and DB Weiss in a pickle, specifically unless Martin really knuckles down, they‘re out of source material for 2016‘s inevitable season six.

The television show has taken a fair few narrative diversions throughout its run, and never more dramatically than it has across season five. Again, no spoilers, of the TV show kind at least, but several story threads

OU R V TOP TICE CHO that we‘ve seen on screen played out very differently on paper, with established characters filling in for lesser ones who‘ve not transferred from print to programme at all.

It‘s clear to both fans of the pre-HBO lore and those who‘ve only known Game of Thrones in moving pictures alike that Weiss and Benioff are far from afraid to muck about with the fates of audience favourites, regardless of Martin‘s original stories.

A fantasy drama television series chronicling the violent struggles among the realm‘s noble families

Better Call Saul SEASON 1 The character of Saul Goodman was a favourite among many Breaking Bad fans, so the news that Walter White’s morally corrupt lawyer would be getting his own spinoff series came as the perfect antidote to our post-Breaking Bad withdrawal symptoms.

Following up arguably the greatest TV series of all time would be nigh-on impossible for most, but Vince Gilligan has managed to create a quirky and dark show that is unique while simultaneously maintaining some of Breaking

Bad‘s distinctive tone.

Before Saul Goodman, there was James Morgan ‘Jimmy‘ McGill. Better Call Saul follows the story of the small-time lawyer on his journey before the events of Breaking Bad. Bob Odenkirk handles the responsibility of the leading role with ease and he remains true to previous form with his outstanding performances.

The charm and wit of the character remain the same but we are also given an insight into a darker and more serious side of his persona as Jimmy

desperately tries to establish himself as a respectable lawyer.

Jimmy’s past as a scam artist tarnishes his reputation in the eyes of his older brother, the powerful and well-respected lawyer Chuck (Michael McKean), and throughout the series we witness their complex relationship evolve.

Stellar writing, stunning cinematography and impeccable acting make Better Call Saul an irresistible show and we are eagerly anticipating its return for Season 2.

A prequel spin-off of the Breaking Bad series based on the character of Saul Goodman

Vikings SEASON 3 A series exploring the lives and loves of a stereotypically barbaric group of Scandinavian pillagers may not have been what television was crying out for in 2013. Game of Thrones had seemingly perfected the magical-historical drama and competing endeavours such as Spartacus failed to live up. Benefitting from the ambiguous historical narrative of the period, creator Michael Hirst (The Tudors, Elizabeth) manages to fashion an engaging and multi-faceted plotline while also staging some cinematically glorious

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battles. Inspired by the tales about Ragnar Lothbrok, the legendary Viking chieftain, the series is set at the beginning of the Viking Age and follows the fearsome leader as he conquers Western Europe.

Season 3 of Vikings continues to develop and build on the conflicts created in its previous two seasons. Now king, Ragnar looks further west toward lands unconquered and explores the new world discovered during the raids of Season 2. However, threats to his fledgling position continue and deception is rife.

Tensions continue to mount as Bjorn, shieldmaiden Lagertha, Princess Aslaug, and Rollo each face conflicts of love and leadership. The clash between paganism and Christianity comes to a head in this season’s journey as Floki grows more suspicious of Athelstan, who continues to tread the line between his Christian God and the Norse Gods. Refusing to fall back on gratuitous nudity and excessive violence, the series also declines to spell out certain plot twists.

A historical drama series following the exploits of the Viking chieftain Ragnar Lothbrok, his crew and family

“Klaw is fun and casual, the food is more sophisticated than the premises would lead you to expect.”

Katy McGuinness,

IRISH INDEPENDENT

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Ireland’s Whiskey Experts!

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INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING Twitter @Celticwhiskey or @Winesonthegreen

Radio On Demand

TOP R ADIO PICK

Fitzpatrick Hotels

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

INDIE

Contemporary easy listening from both sides of the Atlantic brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.

IRISH

Blue of the Night

Late Date

TXFM‘s Indie Hits

Ceol na nGael

The Blue of the Night is a musical journey spanning a millennium of music.

This one hour Inflight version is presented by Carl Corcoran.

One of the best known music shows on RTÉ Radio 1, Late Date attracts a loyal audience of night owls. Each programme brings you the perfect blend of music.

TXFM bring us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as The Maccabees, Hot Chip and many more.

A traditional and folk music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh of RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.

IRISH

KIDS

Irish Pulse

Classical Kids

Irish Pulse brings you some of the most popular hits in Ireland right now.

Listen out for Muse, Kodaline and many more!

Join Ian McGlynn for a fun introduction to the best composers, musicians and instruments made especially for younger listeners. Broadcasting Sunday mornings at 7am on RTÉ lyric fm.

POP

Flying High With Muireann Buckle up, sit back and enjoy your flight with Muireann Ní Chíobháin!

We have some fun games, stories and lots of great music to entertain you.

ROCK

The Nicky Byrne Show with Jenny Greene A music driven entertainment show.

Hosted by Nicky Byrne, and one of Ireland’s most successful DJs, Jenny Greene.

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Top Ten Weekday evenings you’ll catch ‘The Big Ride Home’ with Dara Quilty on Dublin’s 98FM from 4pm. Dara’s on board right now to count down the top ten songs of the year!

Nova Greatest Guitar Songs Marty Miller brings you a collection of some of the greatest guitar songs ever.

Enjoy this music special of songs that feature some of the best guitar players in the world.

When Summer’s in the Meadow Mary Brophy travels to the heartland of Irish-America to tell the story behind one of our most iconic ballads, Danny Boy.

POP

Irish Poetry Corner

Chart Hits

Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets: WB Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith and Oscar Wilde amongst others.

Tune in as Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-tothe-minute pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic!

TA L K R A D I O

Documentary on One

Best of Moncrieff

The first documentary features Patrick ‘Paddy’ O’Connell, the first Irish Manchester United Captain; the second traces the death of an Irish woman on the streets of New York in 2011.

Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues.

Tune in every weekday 1.30–4.30pm on Newstalk 106–108 FM.

Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums. Why not begin with some of our most recent additions below!

A L L T I M E FAVO U R I T E S

Bob Dylan

Al Green I‘m Still In Love With You Amy Winehouse Back to Black Bob Dylan John Wesley Harding Billy Joel An Innocent Man Fleetwood Mac Rumours

A LT E R N AT I V E

Johnny Marr

Banks Goddess (Deluxe) Father John Misty I Love You, Honeybear Johnny Marr Playland Karen O Crush Songs Parkway Drive Ire

E L EC T R O

IRISH

Hot Chip

Hozier

Aphex Twin Syro Basement Jaxx Scars Depeche Mode Sounds of the Universe Hot Chip Why Make Sense (Deluxe Edition) Röyksopp The Inevitable End OPER A

Ensemble Musique Oblique

Andrea Bocelli Aria – The Opera Album Ensemble Musique Oblique Schoenberg Pierrot Lunaire Katherine Jenkins Believe Theatre of Voices & Paul Hillier Lang: The Little Match Girl Passion

Damien Rice My Favourite Faded Fantasy Hozier Hozier (Deluxe Version) Jape This Chemical Sea The Coronas The Long Way The Script No Sound Without Silence POP

Darlene Love

Darlene Love Introducing Darlene Love Kelly Clarkson Piece By Piece (Deluxe Version) Sam Smith In the Lonely Hour Selena Gomez For You Taylor Swift 1989 (Deluxe)

CL ASSIC AL

Alice Sara Ott

Alexandre Tharaud Chopin: Journal Alice Sara Ott Chopin Waltzes Rafal Blechacz Chopin: Polonaises Yo-Yo Ma & Kathryn Stott Songs from the Arc of Life JA Z Z

Charles Mingus

Bill Laurance Flint Charles Mingus The Black Saint and the Sinner Lady GoGo Penguin V2.0 Joe Jackson The Duke Hypnotic Brass Ensemble Fly: The Customs Prelude RNB

Jordin Sparks

Action Bronson Mr Wonderful Drake If You’re Reading This it’s Too Late FKA Twigs LP1 Jordin Sparks Right Here Right Now Nicki Minaj The Pinkprint (Deluxe)

COUNTRY

Cam

Angaleena Presley American Middle Class Brantley Gilbert Just as I am Cam Welcome to Cam Country Hunter Hayes Storyline The Shires Brave (Deluxe) M E TA L

Bring Me the Horizon

Bring Me the Horizon That's the Spirit Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Megadeth Th1rt3en Motörhead The Wörld is Yours Slayer South of Heaven

ROCK

David Gilmour

David Gilmour Rattle That Lock Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds Chasing Yesterday (Deluxe) Robert Plant Lullaby and...

The Ceaseless Roar U2 Songs of Innocence AERLINGUS.COM |

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT

DUBLIN

Where are you flying to?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Passport Control and Security Screening

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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DEPARTURE GATE

DUBLIN

D

ublin is well known for being one of the best places to spend Christmas and the New Year.

It comes alive with festive spirit, smiling faces, spectacular street lights, carol singing, pantomimes, Santa’s Grottos and maybe even a bit of snow. This New Year’s Eve celebrations promise to be bigger and better than ever, and we’re right in the middle of everything.

What better way to enjoy this festive fun than a visit O’Neill’s, one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs.

Whether you’re a visitor, native Dubliner or coming home for Christmas, when you visit O’Neill’s you’ll receive a warm and friendly welcome.

Drop in for a mince pie and mulled wine or a delicious traditional Roast Turkey and Baked Ham dinner with all the trimmings. We have some real crackers on the menu this year, In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top five Places to find ‘Real Irish food in Dublin’. Food is available throughout the day, starting at 8.00am with our ‘Really Good’ Irish Breakfast Menu, until late every evening.

We also have Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week, a fully heated Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area, the largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on tap in Ireland and a connoisseur Whiskey Bar. On top of that we offer free Wi-Fi to all our customers just to help you keep in touch!

Sure where else would you want to go?

due to necessary renovations we will not have our full food service operation during the month of January. we apologize for any inconvenience.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections

Which Terminal are you flying from?

Terminal 1 is connected by a pedestrian link from Terminal 2.

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you.

Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening

You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure Lounge

Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us.

We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

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Dawson Jewellers Ltd The Watch Gallery

21 DAWSON STREET, DUBLIN 2

Buying? Selling? Trading?

We buy Rolex | Patek Philippe Geneve | Cartier Tag Heuer | Hublot | Audemars | Breitling | IWC | Jaeger | Omega

TOP PRICES PAID

Immediate Cash Payment Full Range of Luxury Watches.

We Guarantee you the Best Value for Money Specialist Service for repairs and restoration Battery Replacement in all watches Trade in accepted for new and pre-owned watches Diamond Jewellery, in-store and made to order

Tel: 6624437

Fax: 6785271

OPEN TUES – SAT: 9.00-18.00

Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Victoria Seattle

Duluth

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Salt Lake City

Omaha Denver

Reno

San Francisco

Burbank

St Louis

Wichita Las Vegas

Santa Ana

Louisville

Springfield Nashville

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Los Angeles

Long Beach

Chicago Indianapolis

Oakland San Jose

Des Moines

Memphis Little Rock

Phoenix

Dallas (Fort Worth)

San Diego

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Fort Wayne Dayton

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Columbus

Portland ME

Hartford

Newark

Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK)

Harrisburg

Philadelphia

Baltimore

Cincinnati

Halifax

Burlington Syracuse

Washington (Dulles)

Washington (National)

Lexington

Richmond

Greensboro

Raleigh–Durham

Knoxville

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Columbia Charleston

Savannah Austin

Houston

San Antonio

New Orleans

Jacksonville

Orlando Tampa

Aer Lingus European and North American Network

Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)

Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)

Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America.

You can travel from Dublin direct to nine US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Isle of Man Liverpool

Dublin

Shannon

Copenhagen

Newcastle

Belfast

Knock

Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands

London (Gatwick)

Warsaw

Dusseldorf

Southampton

Exeter

Newquay

Berlin

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff

Hamburg Amsterdam

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante Murcia

Ibiza

Athens Catania

Malaga Faro

Agadir

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your ight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Izmir

Our Middle East and Australasia Route Network You can now book ights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East and Australia via Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

Bahrain Abu Dhabi Muscat

Perth Sydney

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways)

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Melbourne

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Staying connected on board* Mobile Network on board

Wi-Fi on board On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Connect

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

3 Purchase Internet Access

2 Aeromobile

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a full flight pass.

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

3 Welcome SMS

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile.

You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

International roaming rates apply.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password.

You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

4 Connected You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet.

6 Connected

** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 148 |

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You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy!

W ER NE W ES LO R I C P

One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 Full flight pass €14.95 | $18.95 *A330 aircraft only.

Irish Countr y Cottages at Fortwilliam Lismore Co Waterford on the Blackwater River for wonderful Winter/Spring Breaks All the best wishes for Christmas and 2016 Comfortable newly refurbished self catering cottages with free Wifi, in beautiful surroundings.

Private and peaceful farm and parkland surroundings on 400 acre Irish estate.

Wonderful walking country.

Convenient for mountains, coast and heritage town of Lismore.

Character pubs and restaurants historic houses and gardens, racing, golf courses, music & theatre nearby.

Dogs welcome.

Fortwilliam rose collection & gardens and tennis court.

Salmon and trout fishing on 3.5 miles double bank in season.

Contact Philippa (00 353) 86 467 0857

fortwilliamoffice@gmail.com

www.fortwilliamfishing.ie

Cork Airport 1 hrs drive • Rosslare 2 hrs drive • Dublin 2.5 hrs drive

Private Safe Deposit Boxes From Less Than

C4 Per Week!

SAFE DEPOSIT BOX RENTAL Tel:(01) 254 7900 • www.merrionvaults.ie

BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

THE

GIFTS & GADGETS OF 2016

Looking for the perfect present for every personality? You simply can’t beat Boutique.

2

1

IRISH WHISKEY GIFT BOX €30 Whiskeys of Midleton The perfect thank-you gift or Irish souvenir, this whiskey pack contains 50ml bottles of Green Spot, Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy, Redbreast 12 Year Old and Powers John Lane. Cheers!

3

CLASSIC WATCH WITH TWO STRAPS €130 Daniel Wellington

MANICURE SET €17

For the most stylish guy in your life, this classic watch has two very different bands so you can wear it with everything from tennis whites to a tux. Unique, chic and a travel exclusive with Boutique.

Leighton Denny Save €3 This Mini Mani Rescue kit is the ideal travelling companion for anyone who likes to look groomed from top to tips. It contains a mini crystal nail file, curved clippers, duplex buffer and mini hoof stick.

Don't leave home without it.

BOSTON HEADPHONES* €55 Urbanista Save €10

4

These water-repellent, ergonomicallydesigned, tangle-free, wireless headphones will deliver a sound experience like no other. Simply amazing. *NB Not to be used on board as they'll interfere with the flight equipment.

MINI COFFRET €49 Marc Jacobs Save €16 Pretty, witty and absolutely perfect as dressing table candy thanks to the gorgeous packaging, we're in love with the Marc Jacobs range of scents. Buy for the woman who thinks variety is the spice of life.

5

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THE FRONT ROW COLLECTION €55 Olivia Palermo for Ciaté Save €12 When it comes to beauty kits, they don't come much more sophisticated than this one by super-stylish Olivia Palermo. Exclusive, limited edition, covetable, collectable, adorable.

AERLINGUS.COM |

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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | PILGRIMAGE

A MAN REVERED he years have quickly passed since my first visit to Cape Evans, Antarctica. Here, one of Ireland’s greatest sons lived for nearly two years in a hut during Captain RF Scott’s British Antarctic Expedition of 1910-13.

Tom Crean (1877-1938), who had previously spent 1902-1904 in Antarctica on Scott’s ship Discovery, is also linked to my town of Oamaru in New Zealand. Here, at 2.30am on February 10, 1913, he rowed Lieutenant Pennell and Dr Atkinson ashore from the Terra Nova, to dispatch a telegram advising the loss of the Polar Party.

In January 2014, I visited Cape Evans from Heritage Expeditions’ ship Spirit of Enderby. It was a sunny morning with a brisk breeze and air temperature around 0°C. Enthusiastic passengers prepared to enter the hut from which Scott and four others left for the South Pole – never to return.

I quietly opened the inner door.

Before me, bathed in subdued light from a small window, was the mess deck – home in 1911 to nine men, with the officers and scientists occupying the adjacent ward room.

I paused beside a metal-framed bed once occupied by Crean, sandwiched between those of Irishman Patrick Keohane and Welshman Edgar Evans, carefully conserved by New Zealand’s Antarctic Heritage Trust.

After two hours in the dark, frigid interior, it was time to depart.

Aware since I was a boy of Crean’s bravery on Scott’s last expedition, I remembered that he’d earned the Albert Medal for Gallantry for saving the lives of Lieutenant Edward

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW BALMAIN, HERITAGE EXPEDITONS & DAVID HARROWFIELD

New Zealand-based geographer Dr David L Harrowfield follows in the footsteps of Captain Scott and Tom Crean.

T

Evans and William Lashly. He also served with distinction on Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Endurance Expedition 1914-16. I was now determined to visit his hometown of Annascaul ...

Six weeks later I left Oamaru for my first visit to Ireland and, conveyed by Aer Lingus from Boston, I arrived at Kerry. Within an hour and enjoying the beauty of the peaceful countryside, I crossed the Owenascaul river. There it was – before me, Tom Crean’s South Pole Inn established in 1927.

I checked into The Old Anchor B&B first, and with only two days available, proprietors Brian and Beata confirmed places I should see. My first stop was the Memorial Garden, where a magnificent life-size bronze statue of Crean by Éamonn O’Doherty was unveiled in 2003, along with sculpted seats engraved with names of explorers special to the Kerryman, including fellow Irishman Shackleton.

I later entered the Inn to toast

“Before me, bathed in subdued light, was the mess deck – home in 1911 to nine men ...”

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Globetrotting geographer Dr Harrowfield, top left. Above, Scott’s Terra Nova hut on the north shore of Cape Evans.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination?

Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself.

The editor’s decision is final.

Crean’s memory with Guinness – and later with a glass of Tom Crean’s Premium Irish Lager. I had a fine meal of Atlantic cod and browsed the memorabilia managed by Eileen and Gary Percival on behalf of owner Thomas Kennedy, a third cousin of Crean.

Next morning my pilgrimage continued to the Kerry County Museum in Tralee, where there’s an excellent Tom Crean Room.

During the afternoon, courtesy of Brian Lucey, I visited the stone house at Gurtuchrane where Tom was born, and Minard where he signed up for the Royal Navy in 1893.

After leaving the Navy, he died in 1938. I finally paid my respects at Ballinacourty; the resting place of Tom, his wife Ellen and daughter Katie.

Today the annual Tom Crean Festival is held every June, while a ten-kilometre walking trail takes in places linked to Crean.

My visit was too short and I hope to return. Soon I was back in Oamaru where I plan to give further recognition to Ireland’s famous son.

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