July 2016 CARA Magazine July 2016 Charlie Murphy
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
Podcasters Galway City
HOT STUFF Festival Fever in Galway City
Berlin Mallorca Warsaw Paris 5 Best Health Breaks
y p p a H aliant V
POLE STARS Why Warsaw Rocks A TOUCH OF CLASS Exploring Mallorca OUTSIDE INSIGHTS Summertime in Berlin
THE RISE AND RISE OF ACTRESS CHARLIE MURPHY
THE NEW WAVELENGTH IRISH PODCASTERS LOUD & CLEAR
WELCOME TO IRELAND FROM AIB CORPORATE BANKING
Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248
Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219
Ireland’s No.1 Bank for Inward Investment. AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland. As the leading Inward Investment bank, we land more international business than any other, and we’ve helped some of the world’s most recognisable brands thrive. To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.
Source: AIB has the largest market share of day to day banking relationships amongst foreign direct investment companies, Ipsos MRBI AIB Foreign Direct Investment Research, February 2014. Allied Irish Bank, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.
CONTENTS July 2016
78
Check in 06 WELCOME Airport tips for happy travels this summer
Warsaw Wows
08 ARRIVALS We greet a new crop at Dublin International Airport’s T2 11
CHECK IN What’s hot to trot this season
24 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Tour notes with Kodaline’s Steve Garrigan 26 WEEKENDER Claridge’s hotel proves a roaring success for Lucy White 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s edit of new books and downloads 30 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins – too sexy for Milan? 32
88
THOSE SUMMER NIGHTS Lauren Heskin spotlights the UK’s best outdoor cinema
Upscale Islanding
34 LARKS IN THE PARK Eoin Mulligan’s events round-up 36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO WASHINGTON DC Caitríona Perry’s go-to attractions
Features 38 ALL THE RANGE Tony ClaytonLea finds actress Charlie Murphy on the ascent 46 CASTING LIGHTS Michael McDermott presents Irish podcasters
46
54 ECLECTIC GALWAY Lauren Heskin extols the virtues of her hometown
Gift of the Gab
62 CAPITAL GAINS Buzzy Berlin is on the button for Xav Judd 78
IN POLE POSITION Yvonne Gordon’s Warsaw wows
88 CLASS ACT Ingmar Kiang gets swanky in Mallorca
54
West Fest
Regulars
Business
70
109 BUSINESS & LIFE Jake Cigainero’s lesser-spotted Paris
YOU SAY, WE SAY Our pick of your favourite rooftops
98 5 HEALTH BREAKS Jo Linehan’s feel-good sojourns 106 48 HOURS IN SAN SEBASTIÁN Matt Flemming feasts on the Basque capital 125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Inflight news and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Singer and actress Bronagh Gallagher in New York
116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Tipperary Boutique Distillery’s Jennifer Nickerson 118 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes’ shortcut to new gadgets, hotels and events 120 SLEEPS & EATS Jo Linehan rests her head at the city-central Fitzwilliam Dublin 122 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Margaret Jeffares’ wise words
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... the very best Irish brands ... Bláithín Ennis • Cloon Keen Atelier Foxford Woollen Mills • Heidi Higgins • J.W. Anderson KDK • Louise Kennedy • Lucy Nagle Maria Dorai Raj • Mariad Whisker • Paula Rowan Sphere One by Lucy Downes • Waterford Crystal
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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Junior Editor Lauren Heskin Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Editorial Assistant Eoin Mulligan Contributors Jake Cigainero, Tony Clayton-Lea, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Ingmar Kiang, Nathalie Marquez Courtney, Jo Linehan, Caitríona Perry
Michael McDermott’s most recent project is called Just Six Degrees (justsixdegrees. com), which traces connections across the globe. A Cork native, he’s been Dublin-based since his college days and was co-founder and publisher of culture guide Le Cool Dublin. He has contributed to the Irish Times and is the co-founder of the Doggie Do festival (thedoggiedo.com). Michael explores Ireland’s podcast scene for us in this issue – see page 46 – and you can find out more about him at neighbrhd.com.
ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Deirdre Purcell, +353 (0)1 271 9615; deirdre.purcell@image.ie Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editorial Director Jessie Collins Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill
Yvonne Gordon is a multi-awardwinning travel writer whose work has been published in The Irish Times, The Sunday Times, The Guardian, The Boston Globe and The San Francisco Chronicle. Her overseas adventures have taken her everywhere from island archipelagos in Norway and Burma to hiking in Chile and Macedonia. For this issue, Yvonne explored the food and design scene of Warsaw – see page 78. Join her on her travels at @yvgordon.
BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Patrick Dillon Malone Directors Laura George, Robert Power, Gina Traynor, Raymond Reihill, Sam Power
Xav Judd began writing soon after he left Durham University with a degree in history. Specialising in film, travel and social issues, he works hard to identify fresh new perspectives. His articles have appeared in The Independent, The Washington Post, The Boston Globe, The Guardian, South China Morning Post, Time Out, and ELLE. For his Cara debut – page 62 – he got the low-down on the intricacies of a city that puts the wünderbar into travel, the German capital of Berlin.
PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9622; image.ie, email corinne.vaughan@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd. July 2016
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HOT STUFF Festival Fever in Galway City
y Haappliant V
POLE STARS Why Warsaw Rocks A TOUCH OF CLASS Exploring Mallorca OUTSIDE INSIGHTS Summertime in Berlin
THE RISE AND RISE OF ACTRESS CHARLIE MURPHY
THE NEW WAVELENGTH IRISH PODCASTERS LOUD & CLEAR
ON THE COVER
Charlie Murphy photographed by Nathalie Marquez Courtney, assisted by Ben Keenan, on location at The Dean, Dublin. Hair and makeup by Val Sherlock, with styling assistance by Anne Tucker at Costume boutique, Dublin.
Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine
CARA Magazine July 2016
WELCOME ABOARD
Aer Lingus’ chief operating officer Mike Rutter shares his top tips for smart travelling this summer.
elcome onboard and thank you for choosing to fly Aer Lingus today. July marks an increase in the numbers of guests travelling with us. We are now well and truly in peak summertime mode, connecting our guests to their favourite holiday destinations. To help make your journey as stress-free as possible, Aer Lingus has worked hard over the last eight months to invest in and improve your travelling experience. These investments include:
W
PUNCTUALITY We understand that the number one driver of the level of satisfaction that you assign to your journey today, will be determined by whether you arrive on-time. Over the winter Aer Lingus introduced eight major initiatives to improve punctuality and it seems to be working. In each of the first five months of 2016, Aer Lingus delivered higher levels of punctuality at our main Dublin base than our principal competitor, Ryanair (flights departing Dublin). In four of the first five months of this year we delivered the highest level of punctuality on flights to the USA versus our Dublin competitors. We understand that your view of punctuality will be viewed through what happened with regard to your flight, but I hope that you can see from these statistics that you made a good choice by flying with Aer Lingus. 6 |
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CHECK-IN We understand that your check-in and boarding experience is key. In late May we completed the roll out of automated bag drop facilities at Dublin (soon to be rolled out at Cork and Shannon too). The Autobag facilities have cut total drop-off time for Aer Lingus guests to, on average, five minutes. Meaning more you, family or chilling time. To avoid airport queues and use our great new service during this very busy season, check-in online from the comfort of your own home, or even on your mobile if you’re on the go. It’s that simple and it’s that smart. If you’ve not checked in before arriving at the airport you can avail of our user-friendly self-service FastPass kiosks: just tap in your booking reference number, enter your flight details or scan your passport and you can choose your seat and print your boarding card. In addition to the queue-busting Autobag drop service we’ve introduced Evening Before Check-in. If you’re located near Dublin or Cork airports and want to check-in and drop off your checked baggage on the evening before an early flight, you can avail of this facility.
TOP MARKS Well done us! Aer Lingus recently won a Sockie, an Irish social media Award for its Bringing People Home for Christmas ad; Business Airline of the Year at the Business to Business Awards, and a Market Research gong at the AllIreland Marketing Awards.
BOARDING PROCESSES To ensure a fair boarding process for all our guests - and also ensure that as many of our planes take off on time - we introduced a new process, which has helped deliver the improved punctuality performance. We know that great punctuality, easy check-in and boarding are key to your view of Aer Lingus, and I promise that we’re working hard to further improve our performance and maintain our leading position. We appreciate any help you can give us to help maintain the promptness of our service so that you enjoy your flight – little things that help us get you to your destination on time. Happy holidays! Mike Rutter Chief Operating Officer, Aer Lingus Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus
AIDEEN GAYNOR
Celebrate the very best in Irish Design 05/07/2016 – 14/08/2016 #BTCREATE
WHO? Seamus and Erin Shannon FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco SEAMUS SAYS … “I’m originally from Tyrone and I married an American called Erin! We’re home to spend some time with my mum.”
WHO? Conor Sheehy and James Walton FLYING IN FROM ... Gatwick JAMES SAYS … “We’re heading to Sligo and Mayo to visit some family before going home to sit our exams.”
WHO? Kevin Murphy FLYING IN FROM ... LA, via Heathrow KEVIN SAYS … “I was judging Mr LA Leather. I was last year’s Mr Ireland Leather – it’s a competition that does work with local LGBTQ charities like GCN, Switchboard and Outhouse.”
ARRIVALS
From families to fishermen – Cara was at Dublin Airport’s T2 to meet and greet them.
WHO? Jacob and Lauren Rupp FLYING IN FROM ... London LAUREN SAYS … “We’re from Philadelphia but we’ve got ten days in Europe to soak up as much as we can.”
WORDS BY LAUREN HESKIN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS
WHO? Alice Cook and Gavin Spoors FLYING IN FROM ... Birmingham GAVIN SAYS … “We just flew in for two days to see Muse. We know how to get from our hotel to the arena and not much else ...”
WHO? Anna Gale FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco ANNA SAYS … “I’m just flying in to see some family – great to see some Irish sunshine too.”
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WHO? Nathan Davidson and Ross Nolan FLYING IN FROM ... Barcelona ROSS SAYS … “We were competing in a sea-fishing competition in Barcelona – I caught a 56cm mullet, which is big for a mullet!”
WHO? Meike Versluijs FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam MEIKE SAYS … “I’m attending a work conference on addiction and then I’m going to Limerick to see a friend.”
he rjmrnew
W H E R E M O M E N TS A R E T R E A SU R E D Lose yourself in more than 80 boutiques of luxury brands with savings of up to 60%*. And this summer, discover ‘From The Isle’ at
pieces from Ireland’s leading designers. ´
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*on the recommended retail price
fashion and design including the new Só Collective boutique featuring exclusive
© Kildare Village 2016 06/16
Kildare Village – a celebration of emerging and established Irish culture, cuisine,
BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ■
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Find out what’s on, where and when in July 2016
DORTE TULADHAR
Check in
BRIDLED PASSIONS Where are you going, with your fetlocks blowing in the wind? To the Dublin Horse Show, perhaps, which jumps into action at Dublin’s RDS this July 20-24. There, world-class show-jumpers and the finest hacks and hunters will be hoofing around the grass arenas, as will the always-elegant side-saddle riders – the beautiful photograph, above, was taken by equestrian photographer Dorte Tuladhar (equinephotography.dk) at last year’s event. There’s also the flouncy side show that is Ladies’ Day on July 21. And it’s not just for grown-ups either, with plenty of pony classes and a Kids’ Zone inviting little ones to horse around. Adult tickets from €22. dublinhorseshow.com
Check in Compiled by Eoin Higgins and Eoin Mulligan.
SPORT
FIELD LEADERS The Aer Lingus College Football Classic brings the excitement of the gridiron to Dublin’s Aviva Stadium this September 3. Tickets are available from €35 per person, with family tickets starting at €120 for two adults and two children. But it’s not just the sports fanatics who will be enthralled as Boston College and Georgia Tech battle it out. From tailgates to pep rallies, to cheerleaders and marching bands, game week will host an event to suit almost everyone. And for those who want to watch – what should be a real clash of footballing titans – from the comfort of a padded seat, protected for all types of weather while having one of the best views of all the game day action, there are premium tickets available too. Premium facilities ensure short queues on arrival, exclusive access to THE ULTIMATE seven bar areas and a smorgasbord of enticing TAILGATE EXPERIENCE food options. In addition, fast pour systems Tell us your favourite sporting venue at an throughout mean you’ll spend less time Aer Lingus destination on Twitter by tagging queuing and more time watching the game. your entry with the You Say, We Say hashtag: Premium tickets are available from €95.
WIN!
#CaraYSWS. The best 140-character tweet, judged by the Cara editor, wins VIP tickets for two to experience the excitement and unique buzz of College Football from a Tailgate Suite, boasting panoramic views of the pitch (prize worth €650). Deadline for tweets, July 15.
STAY
#MuchMoreThanAGame Follow the hashtag and keep abreast of all the great happenings around the game. Tickets from ticketmaster.ie.
4 HOT HOSTELS
Budget bunks with bags of style …
U Hostel, Madrid
‘Luxury’ might not be what comes to mind when you think of hostels, but U Hostel has stylishly merged the two while still keeping it budget-friendly. Housed in an impressive 19th-century palace next to a metro stop, rooms have been renovated to boutique hotel standards with airy spaces and modern lines. Bed down in the dorms or opt for a private room from €32.50. uhostels.com 12 |
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Wombat’s The Naschmarkt, Vienna
Overlooking the city’s biggest and best food market, Wombat’s is the spot if you’re doing Vienna on a budget. Kookycomfortable decor, super-fast Wi-Fi, a cheap‘n’cheerful bar to mingle with fellow travellers, and staff eager to give you the scoop on one of Europe’s most handsome cities, are just a few of its many charms. Doubles from €80. wombats-hostels.com
Clink78, London
Fancy a night in a prison? Bright and boisterous, Clink78 is a 200-year-old former courthouse, where guests can sleep in renovated cells. Located in lively King’s Cross, this pocket-friendly bolthole has its own Clash Bar in the basement, above, which has fantastic value drinks deals every evening. Penitent private rooms from £40 per night. clinkhostels.com
Loft Hostel, New York
A converted warehouse based in buzzy Brooklyn, New York Loft Hostel pulls together comfort and class to create an experience that is the best of both worlds. With a free breakfast (and, happily, free fondue every Thursday), a gourmet kitchen and basement bar, there are also private lockers in every room and no curfew in place. Individual rooms start from $80. nylofthostel.com
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FAMILY
AIR RAISER Following on from last summer’s turnout of 90,000 spectators, the 11th annual Bray Air Display in Co Wicklow takes to the skies on July 23-24 – be sure to check out the Aer Lingus A321 flypast on the Sunday. Promising mesmerising manoeuvres, the show will comprise of aerial, as well as landlubbing, goings on. From a fun-fair and food and craft markets, to pilots walking the wings of their flying machines, all is set against the beautiful backdrop of Bray Head. brayairdisplay.com
PUT A CORK IN IT The Volvo Cork Week event takes place from July 10-15 around scenic Cork harbour. An activity-packed five days features nearly 200 boats competing in the celebrated racing series. Enjoy a wellcurated selection of bands and acts after the racing too, including Cork indie icons The Frank and Walters. corkweek.ie
PHOTOGRAPHY
CLICK THROUGH Whether you’re a photography buff or still clicking away with a disposable camera (yes, they still exist), make your summer picture perfect by visiting Landscape Rising, curated by former Observer picture editor Jennie Ricketts, at the Solomon Fine Art gallery in Dublin until July 23. Part of the PhotoIreland Festival (July 1-31; photoireland.org), the show features four established Irish photographers and includes work from Dubliner Joby Hickey, above, exploring themes of landscape, lifestyle and people. The exhibition draws its influence from the 1916 commemorations, so expect to see several pieces brought to life using methods plucked straight from the medium’s illuminating past. solomonfineart.ie
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ARTS
GALWAY OUT From performance to visual arts, music to theatre, the Galway International Arts Festival is a finely fettled fortnight celebrating the creative arts. From July 11-24, expect an embarrassment of entertainment, from street theatre to Big Top partying. A few highlights: Elvis Costello and The Imposters, supported by The Undertones; the premiere of a new play by Enda Walsh, starring Charlie Murphy (see our interview, page 38); and a street spectacular performed by the world famous Sarruga from Barcelona. There’s also the acrobatic mayhem of Australian dance troupe, Gravity & Other Myths, below, to take in, not to mention Galway’s brilliant food scene (see our Galway City feature, page 54). giaf.ie
2015 Europe's Leading Tourist Attraction
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DIASPORA
Cork-born choreographer Luke Murphy splits his time between Ireland, New York and Brussels. After a scholarship at Point Park University in Pittsburgh and an apprenticeship in New York with Bill T Jones/Arnie Zane Dance Company, his first professional job was in 2009 with Punchdrunk’s dance theatre show Sleep No More. Now, fresh from an Irish tour of his ensemble piece On Triumph & Trauma, a 1916-inspired work examining Irish identity, Murphy is gearing up for performing with Ultima Vez in In Spite of Wishing and Wanting in Venice and Lima, and also rebooting his 2015 solo show Your Own Man/Mad Notions at next month’s Edinburgh Fringe.
IN TOP FORM
How does contemporary dance in Ireland compare with that abroad? The gulf in people’s perceptions between contemporary dance and theatre: Ireland has an incredibly developed audience for theatre but not for dance. In England, the Barbican and National Theatre have worked to bridge that gap and in doing so have developed a much wider audience. Our national theatre, the Abbey, recently commissioned their first work from an Irish contemporary dance company, which I hope marks the beginning of a really important change. How would you describe your experience in the interactive phenomenan Sleep No More? It’s an amazing work to perform – you arrive into this huge movie set, essentially. You’re not on a stage 16 |
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with open space, you’re in corners, you’re on furniture, climbing, jumping, running and fighting your way through this whole world. On a stage the audience gives their feedback at the end with applause. In Punchdrunk’s work, you can feel someone is with you or not by how they stand, how they shift their weight, etc. It creates an ongoing dialogue and you have to key into this rhythm as an actor. It’s so delicate and I can’t even describe how invigorating. Biggest “live-action” curveball? One time a man fall asleep on a couch I had to dance on and no one could wake him up. We just danced around him and, at one point, my partner just sat on his back for a moment and then we kept going. You have to roll with the punches sometimes!
New York hangouts? I lived across from Fort Tryon Park and The Cloisters museum for five years, which are worth a visit. North again is Inwood Hill Park, a forest which wraps around the northern tip of Manhattan and, at the top, a café called Indian Road – brilliant spot. If I’m looking for a good pint I go to the Four-Faced Liar down by West 4th Street and opposite is Taco Shop, by far my favourite in the city. And after Sleep No More performances, my local was Westside Tavern on 23rd and 9th. Ditto Brussels. I’m still lining up my staples in Brussels but I like Bar Bison – right off Beurs – and there’s a brilliant fish ‘n’ chip place called Bia Mara in the centre. There’s a lovely park down by Saint-Gilles and Molenbeek is full of great spots to get a coffee or a bite to eat.
Biggest dance-related war wound(s)? In Sleep No More in Boston I put my hand through a window, which I thought was made of cardboard but was actually stained glass. The audience thought it was just some of the best makeup they’d ever seen. I finished the show and had to be put in an ambulance. I herniated a couple of discs in my neck from walking on my head last year, so that put me out of action for a few months. Career highlights to date? I’ve been really lucky but one major highlight was when I presented my own work, Icarus, at the Cork Midsummer Festival in 2013. It was my first time performing there in 10 years and it was in the Firkin Crane, the same stage that I first appeared on when I was six years old. It was a great moment.
Now at Dublin Airport connecting passengers can get a personal assistant It’s called DUB HUB and it’s a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight. It couldn’t be easier with:
Free WiFi
No data roaming charges
No log in
No download necessary
DUB HUB is available in Deutsch, English, Español, Français, Gaeilge and Italiano. Simply go to dublinairport.com/dubhub or scan this code.
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bish bash bosch “As a child, I didn’t quite understand what it all meant,” Leonardo DiCaprio told Pope Francis, earlier this year. The actor, who had a print of the painting hung over his crib as a child, was referring to Hieronymus Bosch’s 15th-century masterpiece The Garden of Earthly Delights, detail pictured left. Should Leo wish to understand the triptych better, it’s on display at Museo del Prado, Madrid, until September 11, as part of an exhibition marking the 5th centenary of the death of the Dutch painter. The exhibition also includes a space entitled Infinite Garden, created by the artist Álvaro Perdices and the filmmaker Andrés Sanz, from July 4. Advance ticket purchase is recommended. museodelprado.es
TEA
FAMILY
Arty Tea
At Liberties
What do you get when you mix highbrow art with mouthwatering pastries and pristine lunchables? Afternoon tea at Dublin’s Merrion Hotel of course. Running weekly (Monday to Thursday, 3-6pm; Friday to Sunday, 2-4.30pm), Art Tea at The Merrion serves up treats inspired by 19th- and 20thcentury artists such as Jack Yeats, William Scott and many more. Dig in while enjoying the captivating surroundings of The Merrion’s Drawing Rooms. merrionhotel.com
A distinct highlight of the Dublin summer, the annual Liberties Festival returns July 18-23. Fresh from winning Festival of the Year at the LAMA Community Council Awards, some of this year’s highlights include a whimsical puppet factory workshop, sports day in St Catherine’s Centre, a beginners’ guide to burlesque, pop-up poetry, Family Funday in St Patrick’s Park (where you can ride a unicorn!) as well as the annual football match between the Garda and Dublin’s street traders. libertiesfestival.ie
FOOD
Craw Daddies Looking to experience the Deep South while keeping the bank balance intact? Look no further than London’s first Crawfish Boil at Dalston’s Pamela bar on the last Saturday of each month. Get busy peeling fresh crawfish over long, newspaper-covered tables before noshing on corn on the cob, smoked sausage, boiled potatoes and mushrooms. Tickets from billetto.co.uk.
London’s Victoria Victoria March ... ly 15-17) s’ Summer Market (Ju Embankment Garden tinct d eating, featuring a dis brings together arts an d artists and designers, selection of handpicke pressive street food alongside an always im markets.com offering. cityshowcase 14 |
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fashion
Dawn of Creation Running from July 7 until August 16, Brown Thomas’ CREATE is a monthlong celebration of homegrown craft and design. To mark its fifth birthday, the event will feature up to 50 Irish designers – from innovative milliners to award-winning ceramicists and fashion designers, such as the work of Aideen Gaynor, left, in extraordinary installations throughout its Dublin store and within pop-ups in Cork, Limerick and Galway. brownthomas.ie
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Breakfast
Dinner
Lunch
Drinks
Farmshop, LA What a great start to the day ... heading to the Brentwood Country Mart for a fancy breakfast in LA. There, while sitting at the terrace of Farmshop, I ordered a beautiful version of the classic French toast. It was served with whipped crème fraiche, pistachio and tasty smoked bacon. I like mine to come with poached eggs too, and they were perfectly cooked, really beautifully done. It was probably one of my most luxurious breakfasts under LA sunshine, watching the world go by. brentwoodcountrymart.com
FOOD
FOOD FLIGHT
Executive head chef at Ashford Castle, Philippe Farineau came to Ireland from his native France in 1998, falling in love with the country and “its wonderful ingredients”. His philosophy of cooking is simple: “French heart – Irish produce”. Here, he recalls some of his most memorable meals as a day of jet-setting fantasy dining. 20 |
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Le Grand Véfour, Paris I was in Paris recently and decided to revisit the Jardin du Palais Royal, near the Louvre, where I booked a lunch for my wife and I at the Grand Véfour restaurant. I worked there about 25 years ago. The restaurant is one of the most beautiful places you will ever see, dating from the 18th century. The highlight of my meal was the veal fillet – rubbed with paprika, served with courgette cooked with capers and pine kernels and a citronella tomato juice. For my wife it was the strawberries and rhubarb on lemon shortbread. grand-vefour.com
Mirror Room, London Executive head chef Amandine Chaignot is fantastic and her philosophy of food is like mine: exceptional ingredients from artisan producers, with a keen eye on seasonality and nature. This is a restaurant where the vegetables, herbs and flowers receive as much attention as the seafood and meat. The borage flowers served with a kombu-infused jelly, Devon crabmeat and seafood and lime is simply amazing. What a well-balanced dish. For dessert I would order the rose and raspberry with freeze-dried lychee. rosewoodhotels.com
The Blind Pig, Dublin An underground cocktail bar, tucked away secretly in Dublin’s city centre where Paul Lambert has created his very own speakeasy with an emphasis on great drinks and cocktails, a place that evokes the mood and the spirit(s) of the prohibition era. Definitely the best place to finish a great day. The Diamond Fizz – London dry gin shaken with fresh lemon juice, sugar, egg white and topped with bubbly is so classic and so great. Then again, if you prefer the new generation of Irish gins you’ll be pleased to find them available too. theblindpig.ie
IRELAND’S MOST POPULAR ALE SINCE 1710
Discover over 300 years of character inside
Located less than a five minute walk from Kilkenny Castle and in the heart of Ireland’s medieval mile, is the home of Ireland’s most popular ale. Drop in and find out why The Lonely Planet listed us as one of the top 26 hottest new attractions in the world to visit in 2015. Discover stories of our rich heritage on a unique guided tour and meet some interesting characters along the way. Best of all, it’s all topped off with a perfectly poured pint of the red stuff.
book online at www.smithwicksexperience.com
and receive a10% discount off adult admission tickets The SMITHWICK’S and SMITHWICK’S EXPERIENCE KILKENNY words and associated logos are trademarks © Diageo Ireland 2016
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#CARA VIEW
BERLIN “On the evening this photo was taken the lake was like a mirror, and I love reflections like this. The lake is the Lietzensee in the centre of Charlottenburg, a district of Berlin.” Jörg Nicht, Berlin; @jn
You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin daily.
LANZAROTE “This shot was taken in Lanzarote. I love to explore every kilometre of a place and that’s what my photograph shows.” Marco Hernandez, Tenerife; @marcostories
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lanzarote daily, and from Cork three times per week.
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NEW YORK “Times Square might be a total cliché, but the hordes of people coupled with blinding lights always makes for interesting photography.” Liam Weir, Dublin; @liamweir
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Shannon to New York daily.
OVER TO YOU
Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder
AMSTERDAM “This photo was taken just off of one of Amsterdam’s lively squares close to Vondelpark in July 2015. There was a street party taking place (which usually occurs every week in the summer), and I stumbled upon two performers taking a break!” Niamh O’Donoghue, Dublin; @culturedcuppa
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Amsterdam daily.
VENICE “I wanted to capture the beauty of Venice from a height, so I took a vaporetto over to the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore and its bell tower. I was able to encompass some of the most iconic features of Venice, including St Mark’s Square, the Campanile and Doge’s Palace.” Charlotte Grainger, Kent; @charlotte.g_x
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Venice daily.
INISHMORE “This shot was taken on a sunny April day, in the pretty cottage restaurant Teach Nan Phaidi on Inishmore, where myself and a group of Italian tour operators fortified ourselves with the most delicious homemade Irish stew and apple pie before taking on the hike up to Dun Aengus.” Siobhan Wright, Milan; @shivishivi
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IF I HAD 24 HOURS IN LA ... I’d go vinyl shopping; for a run on Venice beach; trek up to Griffith Observatory and take in the views; go for a drive on Sunset Boulevard and pick up an In-N-Out burger on the way, then check out a gig in Hollywood Forever Cemetery.
BOOHOO
“The best summer fest ival has to be Glastonbury, hands down. I’ve played it twice now and bo th t imes were absolu tely incredible. I t’s just so big and there is some thing for everyone.”
I RECENTLY FLEW TO ... Alesund in Norway to launch a song I did with a DJ called Kygo. The location was incredible, the sun beat down on the beach as we looked out on the water, we had 360-degree views of snowcapped mountains ... it was like a picture you’d see on a postcard.
MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK STEVE GARRIGAN is one-quarter of Kodaline, the Irish band that hit the big time with their 2013 debut album, In a Perfect World and have since established themselves as one of our hottest musical exports. This summer they play festivals in Ireland (Marlay Park on July 8), the UK, Madrid, Budapest and Lisbon – for dates, visit kodaline.com. Lauren Heskin catches the frontman before he hits the road.
FOR DOWNTIME ... I’ve recently got into hot yoga as it really chills me out and I listen to a lot of guided meditations to help me unwind after a long day. I’m a total movie buff and have seen pretty much everything, which makes Netflix decisions very difficult! I also find working out in the gym to be a great way to switch off, or reading a good book.
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MY FAVOURITE INTERNATIONAL DRINKING HOLE IS ... This incredible jazz club in New York called Village Underground. I love sitting back and taking in the music and atmosphere with a gin or a pint of beer in my hand. Love that place.
MY FAVOURITE CITY ... Would have to be a toss-up between Lisbon and Tokyo. Lisbon is breathtakingly beautiful, with ocean views almost everywhere you go as it’s built on several hills. Tokyo is like no place I’ve ever been before and every time I go back it’s still a real culture shock for me, in a good way.
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Easy Aer Lingus Flight Connections at Dublin Airport Moving through Dublin Airport has never been easier – staff at the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk are here to assist, be it with baggage, boarding passes, or ESTA queries and requirements, leaving you with more time to relax, shop, eat and drink before your onward journey. Follow the clear signage throughout the airport that will help you get to your connecting gate with ease. You can also go online with a clear conscience; Wi-Fi at the airport is free, meaning zero data roaming charges. Furthermore, there’s no need to get lost in translation – connecting companion DUB HUB is now available in five languages.
DUB HUB is a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight.
6 EASY STEPS FOR CONNECTING AT DUBLIN AIRPORT 1. Listen to on-board announcements – as you taxi towards your gate on arrival, listen out for any information that the flight crew may have. They sometimes detail flight or gate changes.
3. Use Dublin Airport’s free Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB on your mobile device. No data roaming charges, downloads or login required. DUB HUB is in English, Français, Italiano, Español, Deutsch and Gaeilge.
2. Do you have your boarding card? If not, proceed to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections desk where staff are on hand to help you with any queries.
4. On the DUB HUB home page, enter your Aer Lingus flight number to get your gate number and the time you have before your flight starts to board.
USE THE DUB HUB COMPANION MAP Smartphone or tablet users can access the free DUB HUB easy connecting companion as soon as you arrive in Dublin Airport. It’s powered by Google, and will show you the quickest, easiest route to your connecting flight. Remember to use free Dublin Airport Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB without using your mobile data or incurring roaming charges.
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5. Pass through security, remember to check your gate number on the Flight Information Display Screens in case of change. 6. For all Terminal 2 departure gates, be it for Europe or US pre-clearance, take the escalator upstairs. For Terminal 1, please follow the signs.
DUB HUB makes everything easier, when you’re connecting through Dublin Airport. Simply go to: dublinairport.com/ dubhub or scan this code.
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GO SMART | LONDON
One Classy Dame If it’s good enough for Kate Moss … Lucy White celebrates a milestone at Claridge’s. t wasn’t just the personal butler, The Comfiest Bed in the World or that the elegant suite – designed by Queen Elizabeth’s nephew David Linley – was bigger than our apartment back home. No, it was the Rolls-Royce of hotel slippers; their thick, bouncy soles a veritable mattress of sublime comfort. We knew then that we had truly arrived. That, and happening upon the Burberry coats for sale in our wardrobe. If you saw the Inside Claridge’s documentary on BBC Two a few years ago you’ll remember the gossamer-fine attention to detail offered by the five-star London hotel. Us being pretty lowmaintenance guests however, we didn’t demand that the perfectly decent bath be replaced with a Jacuzzi, like the Japanese pop star in the programme – we were delighted with our premier slip-ons. This Art Deco diamond in upscale Mayfair was destined to impress. Launched as a hotel in the 1850s, and quickly championed by royalty and aristocrats, it became a symbol of the Roaring Twenties: its lobby was designed by Oswald Milne and Basil Ionides, and glass
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WHAT TO PACK Charlotte Tilbury Vintage Vamp palette, €50 at brownthomas.com
door panels by Lalique (present today). A-list celebrities and the mega-wealthy continue to cross its threshold and, as a lover of all things 1920s, I decided there was nowhere in the world I’d rather celebrate my 40th birthday. “I don’t want to go to heaven, I want to go to Claridge’s,” quipped actor Spencer Tracy. And having ticked this glorious place off my bucket list, I know exactly what he meant. For a place of such vintage – and where rooms start at £540 – there’s a surprising lack of snoot. Superb staff treat guests with a light touch, from front of house to the lovely John Alves, who commands the last man-operated lift in London.
Stella McCartney Oversized Cat Eye Sunglasses, €240 at brownthomas.com
Swimming Pool Necklace, £26 at karenmabon.com The Correspondent The Carryon, €625 at steamlineluggage.com
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Come hither luxe – the Mayfair icon is handsome both inside and out.
Slick, friendly service started from the get go at Simon Rogan’s grand Fera restaurant. There, we lowered the tone by ordering beers in an elegant room entirely dominated by wine-drinkers. But it was all of the London-produced craft variety (of course) and our charming French waiter was only too happy to impart knowledge of these local brews. As for the food, it was typical Rogan: complex, surprising, umami-rich, multifaceted and last-supper-worthy. So whether you’re marking an anniversary – or celebrating your naughty 40s – do it through the lens of the Roaring Twenties at Claridge’s. Pleasure guaranteed. Even your feet will thank you. (Brook Street, Mayfair, London, +44 20 7629 8860; claridges.co.uk)
Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow, and daily flights from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.
Almond Delicious Hands (30ml), €10.50 at ie.loccitane.com
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (100ml), €201.45 at The Loop, Dublin International Airport
Small Cat Long Silk Scarf, £95 at cleoferinmercury.co.uk
The Muse by Jessie Burton (Picador), €16.99 at The Gutter Bookshop, Cow’s Lane, Temple Bar, Dublin 2
CERTIFICATE of EXCELLENCE 2015 winner
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SHELF LIFE
Bridget Hourican browses, downloads and event-harvests for your reading pleasure. TERENCE DONOVAN PORTRAITS (DAMIANI, HARDCOVER, OUT JULY 15)
The first book dedicated to the portraiture of iconic Swinging Sixties photographer Terence Donovan, who worked for Vogue, Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar and Elle, where he set the trend for positioning fashion models in stark, gritty, urban environments. He photographed, well, everyone, including Yasser Arafat, Sofia Loren, Sean Connery and Jimi Hendrix, left. The book also features unseen work from Donovan’s archive, including magazine spreads, contact sheets and pages from diaries and daybooks. This publication coincides with a major Donovan retrospective, Speed of Light, by guest curator Robin Muir with Alex Anthony of the Terence Donovan Archive, in the Photographers’ Gallery, London this July 15 to September 25. thephotographersgallery.org.uk
TRAVEL WHITE SANDS by Geoff Dyer (Canongate, out June 30, hardcover & Kindle) Dyer began his travel writing career following in the footsteps of DH Lawrence in Out of Sheer Rage – and he’s still on the road, still following artists and writers: Gauguin through French Polynesia, Walter de Maria in New Mexico, Robert Smithson in Utah. And, as these ten “secular pilgrimages” show, still doomed to wry, dyspeptic, life-affirming disappointment.
HISTORY LAST DAYS BEHIND THE CURTAIN: TRIESTE ‘79, VIENNA ‘85, PRAGUE ‘89 by Richard Bassett (Allen Lane, Hardcover) Bassett was a Times correspondent in central and Eastern Europe in the 1980s – this is his elegiac, amused account of the last decade of the Cold War. He starts in the borderlands – the Habsburg cities of Trieste and Vienna, and then gets to Prague for the full drama of the Velvet Revolution in this eyewitness account of a vanished world.
REISSUE THE SPRINGS OF AFFECTION by Maeve Brennan (Stinging Fly, pbk and limited edition hbk) Ireland’s foremost press for short stories reissues the Dublin tales of New Yorker staff writer Maeve Brennan, who died in 1993 after years of mental illness and critical neglect. A new introduction by Anne Enright and an endorsement from Alice Munro brings Brennan’s haunting, understated, restrained stories of three Dublin families to a new generation.
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MEDIA DAHLING Don’t miss Steven Spielberg’s film adaptation of Roald Dahl’s The BFG, released July 1 in the US and July 22 in Britain and Ireland, starring Mark Rylance as the friendly giant. Dahl buffs can also follow the author’s progress from ages nine to 52 in the newly published Love from Boy: Roald Dahl’s Letters to his Mother (John Murray, edited by Donald Sturrock).
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IN THE PUBLIC DOMAIN Looking for Swedenborg’s Journal of Dreams (1744), Queen Victoria’s Teenage Diaries (1912) or ShinBijutsukai (1902), a turnof-the-century Japanese design magazine? The Public Domain Review gathers “the strange and the beautiful” from the vast collections of out-ofcopyright material round the world. Every two weeks they publish a new essay from a leading writer or artist. The site also has outof-copyright films, images and audio – a treasure trove of the exotic and esoteric. publicdomainreview.org
ARANS
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BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS shop online @ blarney.com
BLARNEY | BUNRATTY | TIPPERARY
GO SMART | MILAN
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FARE The saffron-infused Risotto alla Milanese is a local specialty and a source of great municipal pride. The “King of Risotto”, chef Cesare Battisti, creates one of the city’s best, as well as many other Milanese classics at his restaurant Ratanà. Drinks-wise, make sure to imbibe in the stimulating atmosphere of the famous Bar Basso with a Negroni Sbagliato (“Negroni Mistake”, made the Milanese way, with spumante instead of gin).
Good Reasons
... to make Milan your metropolis of choice. Eoin Higgins doffs his hat.
CULTURE Up close, the world’s most iconic, copied, parodied and pastiched (from Simpsons to Sopranos) fresco – Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper – is at once completely familiar and utterly new. Tickets should be booked online well in advance, as this is one of Milan’s most compellingly attractive (strictly 15-minute) attractions. milan-museum.com
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HISTORY Taking almost six centuries to complete, the world’s third largest church, Il Duomo, is a bona fide Gothic behemoth. Cloud-piercing spires and sharp gables house elegiac sarcophagi and an ostentatious art collection. The guided evening tour of the rooftop is as fantastically informative as the spectacular views it affords. Avoid the shops and cafés in the locality, unless you want to be a spendthrift, but do enjoy the piazza and the people watching. duomomilano.it
SMART FLIERS FATTI BURKE
NIGHTLIFE Milan is stuffed full of smart nightlife options. To hear international jazz names noodle while you dine, tune in to Blue Note Milano; for sophisticated yet energetic nightclubbing, perhaps Cavalli Club is your thing; or, if a more relaxed glamour suits you, the enticing early-1950s restaurant styling at the Dolce & Gabbana Bar Martini should fit like a glove. There’s also the Navigli District, stuffed with interesting bars and restaurants full of hip locals.
STYLE The mouthfulsome Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is one of the world’s oldest, and most beautiful, shopping malls. Within, top-end fashion brands abound beneath a beguiling, wrought-iron and glass roof. Elsewhere, art, fashion and style climax at 10 Corso Como, the epitome of the Milanese shopping experience, while the Piazza San Bablia hosts a clutch of high street gems, such as the massive Zara flagship store.
AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MILAN/MALPENSA and MILAN/LINATE daily.
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SARAH GINN
Those Summer Nights ... Cinema auditoriums are so last season. Lauren Heskin rounds up the UK’s hottest outdoor film screenings. mbrace the soaring temperatures and ditch the darkened rooms, sticky floors and chewy popcorn for some cinematic experiences in the UK’s most magnificent outdoor spaces this summer. Events include themed nights, delicious food offerings, historic locations and spectacular views, as independent and underground cinema clubs throw down picnic blankets, unfold deckchairs and tune car radios in to the sounds of the silver screen. Acquire a warm, feel-good factor no matter what you’re watching with Nomad Cinema (whereisthenomad.com), a roving pop-up that donates 100 per cent of its profits made to charity. Showing multiple screenings across London every week from July 3, it won’t just be the weather getting you hot under the collar with movie classics such as Casablanca (Queen’s Park, August 13), A Streetcar Named Desire (Brown Hart Gardens, August 17) and Taxi Driver (Royal Academy of Arts, September 1). Meanwhile, the nationwide Luna Cinema
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(thelunacinema. com) is all about spectacular heritage backdrops, including Hampton Court Palace, Cardiff Castle, Bournemouth Pier and Harewood House. They’ve also themed their film selection to its locations, showing Spectre in the grounds of Kensington Palace (August 2), Gladiator at the Tower of London (August 10) and Jaws at Brockwell Lido (July 14), along with a smattering of 1980s cult classics including Labyrinth, The Breakfast Club and Dirty Dancing. For a more laid-back experience, head to Backyard Cinema’s Music Film Festival (August 8-14, backyardcinema.co.uk), where music, film, and casual bites combine. The festival focuses on five of the most influential artists and musicians of the last century, including Bob Marley, Kurt Cobain and Prince, with live music, documentaries and feature films, plus bountiful burgers and beer to be drained on giant beanbags in
Clockwise from top, one of Nomad Cinema’s freaky flicks shown in Brompton Cemetery; deck chairs and Pulp Fiction at Backyard Cinema; film fans relaxing at Warwick Castle before a Luna Cinema screening.
the heart of Camden. For a cinematic experience with a bird’s eye view, head to Rooftop Film Club (rooftopfilmclub.com), which spread-eagles over the roof of the Bussey Buildings in Peckham. It boasts not only spectacular views over south-east London but also Oscar-worthy screenings of cracking flicks like The Big Short (July 7), The Dark Knight (July 15), The Revenant (July 22) and Goodfellas (July 29). Last, but not least, there’s also a screening of quintessential 1990s Brit-flick ... Spice World (July 8). You know you wanna ...
DRIVE-IN DELIGHTS Underground Cinema, the lovely people who brought outdoor cinema to Dún Laoghaire, Roundwood and Limerick Racecourse, have teamed up with The Lunaflics to bring old school drive-in cinema to Kilkenny this summer. Kicking off on July 8 with the ultimate drive-in movie, Grease, they’ll be rolling out all the classics – and by that we mean the cheesy kind, from Top Gun and Back to the Future to Anchorman, Mean Girls and Ferris Bueller’s Day Off. So book your tickets at thelunaflics.com, pack the rest of the T-Birds into the boot of the Ford De Luxe and get yourselves to Kilkenny. €25 per car.
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DISCOVER DUBLIN FROM 17 STOREYS ABOVE THE CITY
FUCHSIA MacAREE
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Larks in the Park
This month, family fun can be had in parks across the land, finds Eoin Mulligan. BELFAST Music in the Parks, until September 18 This free, summer-long musical love-in features open-air orchestral and band performances in Belfast’s beautiful blooming greens including the picturesque Rose Gardens (July 18-24) and the serene Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park. The historic Botanic Gardens and its enthralling Palm House will play host to the climatic grand finale on September 18, featuring talented musicians from across the country. July dates include 3, 9, 10 and 31. belfastcity.gov.uk 34 |
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NATIONWIDE Wild Air Run, July 1-3, 8-10, 15-17, 22-24 Who doesn’t want to hurl themselves around a five-kilometre inflatable obstacle course? Sign up for the Wild Air Run, blowing up in Dublin, Cork and Kilkenny, and face 10 challenges that guarantee to have you in fits of laughter or nursing a stitch, but more than likely both. With courses for all capabilities from families to athletes, expect to be asleep well before bedtime after tackling this challenge. wildairrun.com
GALWAY Sunrise Children’s Festival, July 23-24 This unique two-day experience, set against the whimsical woodlands of Brigit’s Garden, is a pastoral celebration of all things creative and crafty. Get the whole family involved with sunrise yoga, puppet shows, live music and storytelling plus lots of local bites. Bring the little ones to the parade on Saturday evening and watch their imagination take over as the larger-than-life Macnas hare bounds by. brigitsgarden.ie
DUBLIN/CORK Laya Healthcare City Spectacular, July 8-10 and 16 -17 The City Spectacular is full of wild and wacky wonders, including The Lizard Man, whose entire body is an homage to our amphibious friends, sharpened teeth and all; Betty Brawn the Strong Lady, a hulking, metal-bending, booktearing gal; and Titan the two-and-a-half metre tall robot. With oodles more street performances and events on during this free festival, your jaw will be hitting the floor at every turn. cityspectacular.com
CORK Quarter Block Party, July 23 Perfect for those looking for bite-sized fun, the Quarter Block Party is a free, one-day festival taking place in city favourite, Fitzgerald Park. Start the day off by making your way through the obstacle course – a navigation of puzzles and challenges that are based on the ecology of the park – before choosing from mindfulness sessions, live samba, Aoife McElwain’s Sing Along Social, musical bingo and more. quarterblockparty.com
3
years on Broadway
2
years In the west end
1award
GraMMy
1osCar 8 tony awards
The MulTi AwArd-winning MusicAl coMes hoMe To dublin
‘tender, funny and soaring’
‘A love affair with music’
VarieTY
The New York Times
Once is a celebration of music, love and the city of Dublin. Full of glorious music, the show is performed by an extraordinary cast of actor musicians, who sing, dance and play their hearts out on stage. It features the Oscar-winning Falling Slowly… and the city’s only on-stage bar! See it at home in Dublin’s historic Olympia Theatre this summer.
A MusT-see dublin experience 2 July – 27 August 2016 Olympia Theatre, Dublin oncemusical.ie #OnceinDublin
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Statistically the fittest city in the US, DC is a haven for fitness fanatics: run or bike the National Mall, or escape the heat like a local by stand-up paddle boarding or kayaking on the mighty Potomac. Try rental company KEY BRIDGE BOATHOUSE. (3500 Water Street NW, +1 202 337 9642; boatingindc.com)
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO
WASHINGTON DC Caitríona Perry takes us beyond the corridors of power and into the Capitol’s hotspots.
ANDREW CEBULKA
Summer here means long afternoons/evenings spent at NATS PARK – home of the Washington Nationals. With pretty good views from even the cheapest seats, the stadium has upped its culinary game with craft beers and gourmet hot dogs. Get ready to sing during the famous Seventh Inning stretch. (1500 South Capitol Street SE; nationals.com)
MORE ABOUT CAITRÍONA
Downtown DC is going through a fantastic rejuvenation, as rundown warehouses and once-derelict homes are revamped into trendy restaurants. History has been preserved in Blagden Alley, a protected district showcasing DC’s post-civil war rowhouse and alley living. Potter along and treat yourself to lunch/dinner at THE DABNEY – booking ahead if possible. (122 Blagden Alley NW, +1 202 450 1015; thedabney.com)
Caitríona Perry is RTÉ’s Washington correspondent, swapping her hometown of Dublin for the US capital. She reports on all sorts of stories but now is mostly chasing politicians as they race to the White House. “It’s a cool, vibrant, transient and clean city. I love to run the National Mall or Roosevelt Island and then indulge in the popular DC past-time – three-hour brunch.”
DC is foodie heaven, so there are more restaurants than traditional bars. However, THE FAINTING GOAT is a gem for some post-sightseeing drinks. In the heart of the buzzy U Street and 14th Street corridors, its atmosphere is relaxed and cocktails delicious. (1330 U Street NW, +1 202 735 0344; faintinggoatdc.com)
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to WASHINGTON DULLES daily, and onwards with partner airlines throughout the US.
R. KENNEDY / VISIT ALEXANDRIA
DON’T MISS
Experience made-at-your-table guacamole and legendary Salt Air Margaritas at José Andrés’ Mexican restaurant OYAMEL COCINA MEXICANA. (401 Seventh Street NW; +1 202 628 1005; oyamel.com)
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Catch a sunset at the TIDAL BASIN illuminating the Jefferson Memorial, then visit the LINCOLN MEMORIAL by night where Abe’s eyes seem to follow you around. If you’re here on July 4, check out the impressive fireworks display. nps.gov/nama
Retrace the footsteps of the city’s namesake and travel the short distance by bike/metro/taxi to George Washington’s hometown OLD TOWN ALEXANDRIA. Historical sites, boat rides and an array of bars and restaurants await. visitalexandriava.com
WITH NAOMI CAMPBELL
W W W. N E W B R I D G E S I LV E R W A R E . C O M #NSBlueBox
Range ALL THE
Rising star Charlie Murphy has one foot firmly on the boards and another in film and TV. Before embarking on a turn in a new Enda Walsh play at the Galway International Arts Festival, she reveals her impressive career trajectory.
WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY
A
n actor’s life might not have been the most obvious choice for Wexford’s Charlotte “Charlie” Murphy – her parents owned a hair salon, the wonderfully named Scissors Empire, and up to her late teenage years she and her siblings worked part-time in the family business, folding towels and sweeping up leftover locks. Destiny, however, selected thespian pursuits over tonsorial duties; it also helped that the Murphy family lived between two theatres – the Opera House and the Dun Mhuire. School visits to Wexford Opera Festival dress rehearsals were interspersed with partaking in fringe events staged by local theatre groups and amateurdrama societies. So far, so familiar, but things were to change dramatically – literally – when Murphy the child morphed into Murphy the teenager. When she was 15, Charlie (it’s only “Charlotte” to school teachers and the Passport Office) hooked up with local theatre group, Bare Cheek, and so began the excursion from provincial ambition to international achievement. Bare Cheek, recalls Murphy, was aptly named – its artistic policy was (and continues) to present challenging work by contemporary playwrights. Before she could spin a coin she was entangled in words by the likes of British playwrights Steven Berkoff, Martin Crimp and Sarah AERLINGUS.COM |
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INTERVIEW
“I more or less presumed that I wouldn’t make a living as an actor. All I knew was that I wanted to be in the industry.”
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Kane, and Irish playwrights Frank McGuinness and Enda Walsh. “You’d be doing Calamity Jane and The Sound of Music just to get the buzz of it all,” she says of the light-relief am-dram she also did during the same period. It’s a drizzly, dull Saturday morning at Dublin’s inordinately hip hotel – The Dean, but Murphy is good company – alert, interested, focused. “The camaraderie, meeting people – it was such a joy as a teenager to be part of that.” Being introduced to serious playwrights, writers she had previously never been aware of was, she states, a defining, pivotal moment. “Geography made me fall upon theatre,” she reasons, “but Bare Cheek’s introduction to those writers made me realise that I wanted to be somewhere in that. We would be encouraged to create our own work, as well as do the work of others. So that approach encouraged me to start writing and gave me a fever to carry on doing it. We were given a blank canvas that was totally liberating and very expressive.” Can she recall what it was she wanted to express? “Oh, God ...” Seconds drift by in slow motion. “Some things that, you know ...” A few more seconds pass. Murphy’s hesitancy could stem from either complete forgetfulness or total recall (the former seems unlikely, the latter could be potentially awkward), but she skilfully bridges the two by defining the emotional powder keg of the teenage mind. “You just go for it! Your limbs go in every direction at once, don’t they?! Ultimately, you look back on your teenage self and accept the oddness of what you were thinking.” What were her ambitions back then? She knew she had the acting bug, so what did she aim to do about it? “I more or less presumed that I wouldn’t make a living as an actor, but I didn’t dwell on that too long, I kind of accepted it. Maybe I thought that I could write? All I knew was that I wanted to be in the industry.” Murphy has been in it ever since and looks set to enhance her status
FOR WHEN YOU’RE FEELING BLUE
W W W. N E W B R I D G E S I LV E R W A R E . C O M
WITH ROB KEARNEY
#NSBlueBox
as one of the new (and, frankly, brilliant) breed of Irish actors. She started off slowly and in low-key fashion with small parts in two RTÉ productions, The Clinic (2009) and Single-Handed (2010). It was with her role in an initially underrated RTÉ series, however, that Murphy’s career took off like a rocket. Written by Stuart Carolan, and featuring quite probably the best ensemble cast of Irish actors ever assembled for a drama series, Love/ Hate cast a coldly intelligent and often unsparing eye on Dublin’s gangland community. Over five seasons (2010-2014), Murphy played a blinder. As Siobhan, the niece of ambitious gangster kingpin Nidge (Tom VaughanLawlor), she developed her character from ingénue to scenestealer with assured incremental steps that travelled from touching to distressing. “It was a pure gift to come back to every year,” she remarks, signalling that between filming each season of Love/Hate she was busy getting her name and face known outside Ireland in British television series such as Misfits, Ripper Street, The Village and, most notably, BBC One’s critically and commercially acclaimed police drama Happy Valley, playing a crime-victim-turned-copper opposite Sarah Lancashire. As for Love/Hate, she admits, “the stars aligned for it in so many ways – the writing, the actors and the crew I worked with, but also for the age that I was. Love/Hate ran over five years, and each time I came back to it I became more comfortable in my skin as an actor. Because of that, you relax more and you’re not afraid of trying things out.” Which brings us back to where it all started for Murphy: theatre. Almost two years ago, she appeared in Our Few and Evil Days, by acclaimed Dublin-born playwright Mark O’Rowe, at his native city’s Abbey Theatre. Murphy’s performance in the ensemble piece (which also featured Ciarán Hinds, Sinead Cusack, and her former 42 |
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RTÉ
INTERVIEW
CHARLIE MURPHY’S LIKES … BOOKS “I’m playing Anne Brontë in a forthcoming BBC film, To Walk Invisible, so I’m stuck in the Brontë world at the moment. I wouldn’t have been familiar with Anne’s books, but Agnes Grey (1847) and The Tenant of Wildfell Hall (1848) are excellent. The latter is regarded as one of the first feminist novels, and for the book to have been written in 1848 was phenomenal. It’s still relevant today and very inspirational.” MUSIC “Dark Dark Dark are from Minneapolis – I had never heard of them before, but I Shazammed a song of theirs on the radio a while ago. Gorgeous stuff. I’m late to the game, also, with Woodkid – aka Yoann Lemoine, a French songwriter and music video director. Very cinematic.” MOVIES “One of my favourite films is Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind (2004, directed by Michel Gondry, written by Charlie Kaufman), which is just a brilliant piece of work. Great concept, so well executed.”
Love/Hate co-star, Tom VaughanLawlor) was outstanding. (When asked for his thoughts on Murphy, O’Rowe’s reply is commendable: “Hard-working, truthful, incredibly skilled, and deeply empathetic as most brilliant actors are. I loved working with her, and would do it again in a heartbeat.”) “Mark and Enda Walsh are my theatre heroes,” she declares, adding that O’Rowe’s Terminus, and Walsh’s The Walworth Farce and Disco Pigs are “absolute favourites. I adore the writing, so being drawn to the weird, wonderful and dark is a given. There’s always humour there, too, which is another major appeal.” Murphy is set to continue her exploration of weird, wonderful, dark and funny this month during the Galway International Arts Festival – she features, with Irish actor, Hugh O’Conor, in the world première of Enda Walsh’s Arlington [a love story]. Asking about storyline and plot proves fruitless, but she captures the essence by describing it as a typical Walsh product of the mind: “Where you’re thrown into a bizarre world that can be treacherously dark, but at the same time has pockets of absolutely heart-breaking beauty.” There is, of course, work that will be rolled out after Galway – Murphy appears with Pierce Brosnan and Jackie Chan in The Foreigner, which will be released worldwide next year. And she has recently finished filming (for BBC television) To Walk Invisible, a film based on the lives of the Brontë sisters and written by Happy Valley’s Sally Wainwright. Famous movie stars, awardwinning work, ticking off bucket list jobs – is she now totally spoiled for choice? Murphy touches the wooden leg of her chair, the wooden top of the table, my head (actually, no, not my head), before adding: “Well, you never want to jinx anything, do you?” Arlington [a love story] by Enda Walsh runs at the Galway International Arts Festival from July 7-24. giaf.ie
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PEOPLE | PODCASTERS
The Moth StorySlam WHO Julien Clancy WHAT Producer of The Moth StorySlam and founder of the Sounds Alive Festival Julien Clancy is at pains to point out that “my whole thing is celebrating stories told through sound”. He has been an innovative champion of the sonic scene creating Sounds Alive (soundsalive.ie), “a wonderful cinema for your ears,” which brought the likes of celebrated podcasters Roman Mars (99percentinvisible.org) and Nicholas van der Kolk (loveandradio.org) to Dublin for intimate listening parties. Clancy is also the local link with that storytelling behemoth The Moth (themothmagazine.com) producing the monthly StorySLAM, an open mic competitive night in the Sugar Club. Earning his chops with a DJing stint on Dublin City FM, Clancy progressed to producing radio shows as varied as pet rescue missions from inside the exclusion zone of Fukushima in Japan to climbing four of Ireland’s tallest mountains. “I think it all starts with a sense of curiosity. You have to be constantly wondering why are things the way they are and how did they get there in the first place. I love doing deeply personal stories that can take time to build trust with the subject.” Furthermore, Clancy believes there’s never been a greater time to start making audio stories for radio or podcasts. “I think we’re only getting started. Even a basic smartphone will have a voice recorder on it that allows anyone to start interviewing anyone, anywhere and anytime.” LISTEN UP “My wife and I are expecting our first born this summer so we’re listening to a lot of The Longest Shortest Time (longestshortesttime.com) – a parenting podcast that’s really honest and intimate.”
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Casting LIGHTS
Podcasts are having a moment. We spotlight the Irish broadcasters acing the airwaves. WORDS MICHAEL McDERMOTT PHOTOGRAPHS PETER ROWEN
I
s this a golden age of podcasting or the brink of one? From global stars such as Ira Glass (thisamericanlife.org) exploring a nation through the prism of a theme each week, to the addictive unfolding of a murder mystery on Serial (serialpodcast.org) or Karina Longworth (youmustrememberthispodcast. com) unearthing the secret histories of Hollywood, there’s no headphone left unplugged. And Ireland’s burgeoning scene is starting to represent itself with aplomb in the midst of this audible explosion. Institutions such as the Irish Times have cottoned on to the opportunities inherent in providing a vocal platform to their writers, launching the likes of The Women’s Podcast, while festivals are springing up such as Hearsay (hearsayfestival.ie), an international audio and arts festival which takes place in Kilfinane in Limerick, with the next
instalment in 2017. “The Irish podcast scene is at an interesting stage of its evolution – the Irish are well known both for the richness of our conversations and the power of our writing,” according to Diarmuid McIntyre, the director of Hearsay. Alan Bennett, who has created a suite of podcasts for the creative and curious at Headstuff (headstuff.org) adds: “Since we started the network, a lot of people have pitched their ideas to us. We only choose the ones that have a very strong idea, or a host with a good voice, someone with ‘notions’ or who you just have to listen to.” Further fuelling the momentum is the AIRPI – the Association of Independent Radio Producers – which champions rich, story-led audio. Consider a podcast the equivalent of a bubble bath offering the luxury of contemplation. And one in which the Irish are increasingly finding a platform for their innate wit, verbosity and curiosity. AERLINGUS.COM |
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PEOPLE | PODCASTERS
Those Conspiracy Guys WHO Gordon Rochford and Paul Kelly WHAT A fortnightly comedy podcast examining conspiracy theories Gordon Rochford readily admits that “talking shite and pontificating about useless stuff” whilst working in a phone store with his mate Paul Kelly served as the perfect workout for their conversational muscles in advance of launching Those Conspiracy Guys (thoseconspiracyguys.com) on September 11, 2014. Tackling a vast range of theories which have bred both plausible and incredible theories serves as the backdrop for their extensive discussions. “We decided that we would try to get all the big hitters out of the way in the first couple of years, JFK, 9/11, Aliens, Secret Societies, the usual. These led into avenues
of exploration and explanation that gave the listener a broad knowledge base to work from when listening to later episodes,” according to Rochford. “Each show takes about 50 hours to produce from start to finish, between research, recording and editing. Personal relationships do take a little smack – I’m sure my girlfriend feels like a ‘podcast widow’.” The boys receive donations from the crowd-funding website Patreon (patreon.com) and use social media such as Facebook, Twitter, Vine, Snapchat, Pinterest and Instagram, as well as Blab (blab.im), an online platform that involves the public in the conversation. When it comes to boundaries, Kelly is of the belief that, like comedy, “either everything is up for discussion or nothing is. You have the power to ignore before taking offence.”
LISTEN UP Gordon: “Disaster Artists (disasterartistspodcast.podbean.com).” Paul: “Higherside Chats (thehighersidechats.com).”
Documentary on One WHO Lorelei Harris WHAT Creator of RTÉ Radio One’s Documentary on One
LISTEN UP “Personally, I love opera and am drawn to classical music podcasts.”
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Lorelei Harris was a veteran of the podcast scene before its incarnation as such. As the creator of Documentary on One (rte.ie/doconone) since 1987, she has spearheaded the development of hundreds of hours of shows, which have offered unique glimpses into the Irish psyche. “The burgeoning interest we are currently seeing in long-form radio has, in many ways, revolutionised and revitalised Documentary on One,” says Harris, head of arts and cultural strategy with RTÉ. “Long-form radio documentaries open possibilities to programme makers that few other forms of radio permit. The sheer space with which one is working allows a movement vertically to the heart of whatever one is trying to express through the medium of sound.” The quality of these documentaries has reaped a haul of international awards such as Siobhán Lynam and Nicoline Greer’s The Irishwoman who Shot Mussolini, which picked up the Gold Medal at New York Festivals (newyorkfestivals.com) last year. Receiving countless submissions, Harris has some sage advice for aspiring documentary makers: “Always remember that good ideas are two a penny – it’s what you do with them that counts. Do not attempt to make a topic-driven documentary. Info and experts push the audience away; story draws them in. And always remember that you are dealing with other people’s lives, their stories and their dreams. Tread softly.”
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PEOPLE | PODCASTERS
An Irishman Abroad WHO Jarlath Regan WHAT One-on-one conversations with the comedian, writer and illustrator “It was one of those weird planets-aligning things,” explains comic Regan on the origins of An Irishman Abroad (anirishmanbroad. podbean.com). “I arrived in London in 2013 and like a lot of people at the time, was a little lost, a little upset that I had to leave and afraid that it might be my last roll of the dice.” The roll that started out with a conversation with Graham Linehan has now garnered more than 140 episodes, positioning his show at the vanguard of this new wave of Irish podcasts and frequently nabbing the top spot in the iTunes charts. “I was blown away by how quickly it became a credible thing. As a comic I have spent 10 years working my butt off to try and get my stuff off the ground in whatever format
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that might be,” explains Regan. There’s an affability to Regan’s questioning. You half expect his chats to have a crackling fireside backdrop as he enables his subjects to uncoil the story of themselves. “A lot of work goes into good podcasts but we will never know how much – I like that,” and this is clearly evident when you listen to him. “It changed my life. I know that. I know that the podcast has given me more than I ever could have imagined. "Who gets to meet the greatest Irish people currently living in the world? Who gets to share an hour in their company? And get to share it with a bunch of listeners who appreciate it for the same reasons you do?” LISTEN UP “My favourite podcast is Fresh Air (npr.org/programs/fresh-air) with Terry Gross. To me she is the best interviewer in the world.”
Fair Game WHO Emily Glen and Elaine Buckley WHAT The duo behind the Fair Game podcast, which focuses on women in sport Emily Glen and Elaine Buckley are relative young guns on the scene. They first aired Fair Game (castaway.media/fairgame) in February and have since gained respect and traction with their podcast dedicated to Irish women in sport. “I’ve always had a vested interest in gender parity in sport,” explains Buckley, who comes from a TV production background. Since teaming
up with Castaway Media, an Irish podcast company with a growing stable of quality shows, Fair Game has been looking at the road to the Rio Olympics next month with athlete Sara Treacy and the rugby sevens squad, as well as delving into issues such as doping. “There is not an underrepresentation of women in sports broadcasting, as such – there are so many brilliant female sports broadcasters here in Ireland like Jacqui Hurley, Marie Crowe, Joanne Cantwell and Sinéad Kissane, to name a few – so there’s plenty to draw inspiration from.
However, as a long-time fan of sports, I’ve noticed a pattern that female athletes tend to succeed first, and get coverage after,” according to Buckley. “It doesn’t feel like work,” adds Glen. “Learning about new sports and some of the incredible Irish female athletes out there is brilliant, and then they come into studio and we get to chat to them for 40 minutes – it’s pretty rewarding as a fan.” LISTEN UP Elaine: “The Second Captains [see page 52].” Emily: “NPR’S Fresh Air (npr.org/programs/fresh-air).”
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PEOPLE | PODCASTERS
Second Captains WHO Mark Horgan WHAT A sports podcast on the Irish Times network with its own multimedia spin-offs including TV and print The Second Captains (secondcaptains.com) are the sports guys you want to sidle up to in your local. You leave their company imbued with a sense of being smarter. Formed in 2013 as a breakaway from Newstalk’s highly respected Off the Ball (newstalk.com/ offtheball), they consist of Eoin McDevitt, Ken Early, Ciaran Murphy, Simon Hick and Mark Horgan, pictured. Theirs is a conversational camaraderie forged from friendship that adheres to the cardinal rule of broadcasting – make it seem effortless. “We want to make people laugh and appeal to listeners who aren’t obsessed by sport,” 52 |
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says its producer Horgan. “I think it’s good to see sport as something that can be incredibly dramatic and bring a lot of joy but can also be really silly and funny at times.” Boasting more than 200,000 followers on Soundcloud, Second Captains know the value of amplifying their brand through different platforms. “I think it’s really important to provide live shows for our audience, who have been so loyal to us. So as well as shows in Ireland, we’ve taken the podcast to San Francisco and New York (with some help from Aer Lingus!).” Horgan believes you should “be prepared to make eejits out of yourselves occasionally for your listeners’ enjoyment and talk about subjects your target audience can identify with”. With a jam-packed summer of sport ahead, expect Second Captains to be prominent commentators on the podcast sideline.
LISTEN UP “I was blown away by Barack Obama on WTF with Marc Maron (wtfpod.com). It took place in Maron’s garage and the in-depth, laid-back nature of the discussion – I think only podcasts can deliver a show like this.”
In Ireland
rsa.ie
Eclectic
DESTINATION | GALWAY
GALWAY
July is one of Galway’s busiest months as it hosts a gamut of festivals. Find out where’s best to soak up the sights and sounds of this wildest of western cities. WORDS LAUREN HESKIN PHOTOGRAPHS NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY
A rare moment of stillness on the Corrib River, this page. Opposite, Aoibheann McNamara of Ard Bia.
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A
As the Corrib river thrashes through the city, standing on Wolfe Tone Bridge is the best place to drink in all that Galway has to offer. An unfamiliar visitor might expect to find a quiet, lunar-looking town, huddled against the wild winds that blow in from the Atlantic, but the streets of Galway are anything but dreary. Downstream, the Clare mountains peak out beyond the Long Walk where the Corrib meets the Atlantic. The ancient, weather-beaten limestone of the Spanish Arch, a bastion remnant of the Medieval city, is flanked by two more recent Galway paragons. Ard Bia (Spanish Arch, 091 561 114; ardbia.com) – nestled within the walls of the old customs house – is Galway’s culinary darling, with an emphasis on local produce and a community-spirited ethos. Nearby is the sophisticated House Hotel (see ‘Sleep at’, page 60) where flamboyant decor and creative cocktails await. Further up the river there’s the cathedral, on the site of the old county gaol, and beyond is the university campus, holding 17,000 students who call Galway home nine months of the year. AERLINGUS.COM |
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DESTINATION | GALWAY
With two universities within the city limits, Galway is always a bubble of activity but the city truly comes to life during the summer months as the Galway International Arts Festival (July 11-24; giaf.ie), Galway Races (July 25-31; galwayraces.com), and the international Film Fleadh (July 5-10; galwayfilmfleadh. com) take hold. Even if you don’t have tickets to Elvis Costello or Druid’s Waiting for Godot, the city stages its own theatrical performance. Sunshine slices across the brightly painted shop fronts, buskers and street artists pepper the weather-beaten stones as onlookers pause, as much to take in the multifarious mix of visitors and locals as the performers themselves. A wander up the cobbled stones of Quay Street brings you to Coffeewerk + Press (4 Quay Street, 091 448 667), the one-up-one-down café-cum-gallery that encapsulates Galway at its eclectic best. Initially set up as a small postcard printer for local artists to sell their creations at postage-stamp prices, it has since expanded to also include speciality coffee, international and local artisan food, books and design, all housed within Scandinavian-style interiors. Galway is eminently walkable in under an hour but that doesn’t mean there’s little to see – there are plenty of independent shops to keep your eyes and wallets occupied. Wooden Heart (3 Quay Street, 091 563 542; woodenheart.ie) and its next-door neighbour Twice as Nice (5 Quay Street, 091 566 332) are two such bijou shops, with creaky floors and narrow staircases selling wares of antique and costume jewellery, handmade lace 56 |
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Delectable design and caffeine fixes courtesy of owner Daniel Ulrichs at Coffeewerk + Press, top left and right and above. Left, traditional toys at Wooden Heart. Opposite, clockwise from left, Margaret Mangan at Cloon Keen; a colony of Penguins at Charlie Byrne’s; Mariangela Rizzitelli at McCambridge’s; Mexican-inspired street food at Biteclub; a bike marks the spot at Judy Greene, and pizza perfection from Dough Bros.
EAT AT … MICHELIN Awarded a star in 2015 (the city’s second), Enda McEvoy’s Loam, above, takes seasonal, local cooking to another level. Befriending local producers and farmers, foraging for interesting flavours and textures and sourcing nothing outside Ireland, McEvoy’s every dish is carefully curated as an appetising delineation of the west of Ireland. (Fairgreen Road, 091 569 727; loamgalway.com) COMFORT Chef Jess Murphy and her husband David set up Kai Café + Restaurant in 2010, right when the city was beginning to emerge as a foodie hub. An ever-changing menu, rustic surrounds, local ingredients and a knack for exceptional flavour combinations make Kai a superior culinary experience in an invitingly laid-back space. (Sea Road, 091 526 003; kaicaferestaurant.com) CASUAL Starting as a stand in the weekly market by St Nicholas’ Church, TGO Falafel is guaranteed to have a crowd queuing up every Saturday. Now finally in bricks and mortar of their own, TGO Falafel promises lots of mouth-wateringly good falafel options but local favourite is The Original Worx. Perfect for an Arts Festival post-Big Top stop. (11 Mary Street, 086 189 0655) AERLINGUS.COM |
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STEVE M C CARTHY
DESTINATION | GALWAY
Eugene Greaney of The Dough Bros.
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and unique wooden toys. Cross over to High Street and let the gently simmering fragrances of Cloon Keen’s (21a High Street, 091 565 736; cloonkeenatelier.com) locally made perfumes and candles draw you through the stone archway and into its atelier, or lose an hour (or three) in Charlie Byrne’s (The Cornstore, Middle Street, 091 561 766; charliebyrne. com), a second-hand bookstore seemingly held up purely by a maze of yellowing paper and jutting book spines. Down Kirwan’s Lane is Judy Greene (091 561 753; judygreenepottery.com), the terracotta pottery depicting Irish flora and landscapes that has been a Galway institution for 30 years. In fact, this is a city that’s renowned for supporting local businesses. Pick up a coffee and select from a groaning table of homemade cakes in another iconic spot, McCambridge’s (38-39 Shop Street, 091 562 259; mccambridges.com), and you’ll be surrounded by Judy Greene’s Connemara-inspired motifs. Established in 1925, this family-run shop and deli converted the upstairs office into a restaurant in 2012 that has only strengthened the store’s reputation as a serious gourmet landmark. With a great mix of culinary fare, from casual pizzeria The Dough Bros (24 Upper Abbeygate Street; thedoughbros.ie) and the street food of Biteclub (36 Upper Abbeygate Street, 091 565 976; biteclub.ie) to the Michelin stars of Aniar (53 Lower Dominick Street,
MUST-DOS ISLAND LIFE The Aran Islands have welcomed many a traveller from JM Synge to Martin McDonagh to the more recent visitors for Ted Fest (February) and May’s Drop Everything event. There’s plenty to astound on the main island alone – the prehistoric ring fort of Dun Aengus clinging to the cliffs and the outlandish Poll na bPeist, a bizarre wormhole rock formation. Ferries shuttle in and out three times daily (aranislandferries.com) or, experience the bay at its awesome best and sail over for a night on a luxury yacht. (charterireland.ie)
Top right, a call to action outside the Dew Drop Inn and, above, the Spanish Arch, as seen from Wolfe Tone Bridge.
091 535 947; aniarrestaurant.ie) and Loam (see ‘Eat at’, page 57), the city has emerged from the depths of the Tiger as a culinary kingdom. Pre-emptively named the European Region of Gastronomy 2018, there’s a focus on local, organic produce that proves the West of Ireland is not as barren and bare as its landscape might initially suggest. If the sun does appear, picnic in Eyre Square – with those take-out morsels from McCambridge’s – or head for a drink in O’Connell’s (8 Eyre Square, 091 563 634). Once a grocers, this pub has kept all its traditional charms including an old-fashioned cooker (now used as the perfect Guinness resting spot), church pews, stained-glass windows and what looks like every bottle of whiskey ever distilled. A spacious patio and outdoor bar means there’s plenty of space to soak up the atmosphere with a decent seat. And if the heavens
MUSEUM MEANDER Housed in a small, yet inventive space, the Galway City Museum is free, with a number of exhibitions based on the city’s heritage and history, as well as an artistic showcase area for international and local artists. Pause at the corner window and soak up the river views. (Spanish Parade, 091 532 460; galwaycitymuseum.ie) WILD RIDE Take a drive along the coast’s well-signposted Wild Atlantic Way and discover the diverse seascapes that open up at every beach, cliff face, river estuary and craggy shore. Make a day of it and drive out to Clifden or hike Diamond Hill in the Connemara National Park. wildatlanticway.com AERLINGUS.COM |
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DESTINATION | GALWAY
SLEEP AT …
open: try Tribeton (1-3 Merchant’s Road, 091 421 600; tribeton.ie), which is all celestial lighting, squishy green velvet bar stools and killer cocktails. Perch at the counter and watch the bar staff work their mixology magic. There are also plenty of great drinking holes in the West End, including The Salthouse (Raven Terrace, 091 441 550; galwaybaybrewery.com/salthouse) and the indie live-music hub Róisín Dubh (Lower Dominick Street, 091 586 540; roisindubh.net) Galway’s affectionate – really – tagline as being “a graveyard of ambition” belies the energy and originality of its residents. Like a pint of Galway Bay Brewery’s Stormy Port, this is a city that can’t be rushed. It needs to be absorbed and distilled through its people, culture, food and bohemian foibles to really get the sense of what the place has to offer. Which is, really, what makes it so hard to leave. 60 |
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Daytime drinks overlooking Eyre Square, above. Top right, live music staple Róisín Dubh.
BOUTIQUE Sandwiched between Quay Street and the Spanish Arch, The House Hotel is about as central you can get. It’s got plenty of bubbly personality with excellent staff, bright bursts of colour and some seriously top-notch cocktails, left. During weekends the place is hopping – don’t be surprised if you end up accidentally-on-purpose wining and dining the night away here. Rooms from €149 B&B. (Spanish Parade, 091 538 900; thehousehotel.ie) QUIRKY The Stop B&B is an artistic haven just a few minutes’ walk from the city centre. Run by creative couple Emer Fitzpatrick and Russell Hart, above, it’s full of simple furniture, a mélange of artwork and, bang on the Galwegian zeitgeist, breakfast is utterly scrumptious with a focus on local produce and unusual flavours. Rooms from €100 B&B. (38 Father Griffin Road, 091 586 736; thestopbandb.com) HISTORIC Built in 1852, Hotel Meyrick is perched commandingly at one end of Eyre Square. Packed full of ritzy glamour, from the Victorian entrance to the classy cocktails in the Gaslight Bar, you’ll need your glad rags for this one. Rooms from €180 B&B. (Eyre Square, 091 564 041; hotelmeyrick.ie)
“At Rustic Stone our philosophy is simple. We source the best seasonal ingredients, then we apply simple techniques to extract the most flavour, while giving you the information you need to add nutrition and structure to your diet. The produce I’ve chosen and our demand for freshness, is the cornerstone of our Rustic idea, while providing a healthy but affordable eating approach.”
“Quite simply a menu designed to support the very best of homegrown produce. The food is assembled in an uncomplicated way that relies on its freshness to shine through as a real hero. We are committed to bringing to the plate all that is great from the best of Irish produce, at a time when its is important to support the value, the effort and commitment of our Irish producers and farmers. These people are an inspiration to us; through their passion they are continuously evolving with a determination to be proud of what we do on this rapidly developing food island”. - Dylan McGrath
- Dylan McGrath 17 South Great Georges Street T: 01 707 9596
Taste at Rustic is an exciting new restaurant in the heart of Dublin City. A new food experience by Dylan McGrath to explore the idea of flavour, tastes and in the room cooking, while being influenced by Japan, Spain and South America. “I love the flavour release of some of these cooking techniques. I find something special in the use of their immediate, quick heat and I hope you do too”. - Dylan McGrath
Taste at Rustic 17 South Great George’s St. Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: +353 (01) 526 7701
Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com
layout tre Tapas bar en C y it C g n ’s dining “This exciti hub of Dublin designed ew n e th in at I have positioned ing concept th all scene is a shar seasonal, innovation in sm e , ’r u le p yo m er si h w whet to allo of flavour. So or ts rs ow u b sh e yl om st fr tapas g back in m co e, al tr su ea ca is going to the th y of friends, th be an p m co e th just enjoying ways fun and engaging to al n”. experience is eaten on the ru or er mulled ov
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- Dylan McGra
ial, Fade St Soc Dublin 2 4-6 Fade St, 6 T:01 604006 ocial.com fadestreets
CITY BREAK MURCIAand Bright spark –|Berliner fromagier, Nora, in Dahlem’s Mexikoplatz. Opposite, say Prost! at the city’s oldest beer garden, Pratergarten.
CAPITAL GAINS GentriďŹ cation may have tarnished the authenticity of many a hip city but Berlin remains at the epicentre of kooky-cool. WORDS XAV JUDD PHOTOGRAPHS THE PORTNOO HOTEL
DESTINATION | BERLIN
s any self-aware hipster will know, Berlin’s post-Cold War sang-froid, host of impressive museums and galleries, and some of the cheapest rents and other living costs in Europe, have attracted budding creatives, startup entrepreneurs and students in their droves. This unrelenting influx of bright young things has helped encourage not only a profusion of swanky bars and restaurants but also an electrifying alternative music and nightclub scene. And despite ongoing gentrification in areas such as Pankow and Neukölln – which could drive up prices and threaten social cohesion – for now Berlin retains its reputation as an accessible, open-minded, value-formoney hipsterville. If ever a structure has come to symbolise a city, then it’s where Germany’s parliament sits: the Reichstag. Both it and the city were devastated because of the
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BERLIN daily.
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Western block – cuboid governmental buildings beside the River Spree, above. Right, curves in construction at the Haus der Kulturen der Welt.
Nazis: the former, during their ascent to power in the 1930s, as they set it on fire; while the latter was almost completely destroyed by the Allies when they defeated the Third Reich in the Second World War. Yet Berlin, which was divided into East and West shortly after that conflict concluded and became a single entity again after German reunification in 1990, rose phoenix-like from the ashes. The Reichstag building was reborn too: the semi burnt-out shell was restored, and then augmented by Norman Foster’s space-age cupola. And the spectacular 360-degree view and audio commentary from the top of this glass dome – entry is free but you must register online beforehand – is a perfect way to get an initial understanding of the layout
GÖTZ SCHLESER
EAT AT … UPSCALE It’s not exactly astonishing that owner/chef Richard Han’s eponymous restaurant received a Michelin star last November. What’s not to love about tucking into inventive, impeccable French-inspired haute cuisine, in a beautifully restored 19th century Gründerzeit-era building? Order from four to seven courses – from €58 to €88. (Köpenicker Strasse 174, +49 304 920 7242; restaurantrichard.de)
STALWART It may look just like a bland, straightforward pre-fab food shack but the queues around the block show that Konnopke’s Imbiss is a Berlin institution. Run by the same family for over 80 years, the place has become legendary because of their tasty currywurst (with French fries €3.50). It’s a sausage, which is normally cut into several bite-sized ringlets then seasoned with curry ketchup. (Schönhauser Allee 44b, +49 304 427 765; konnopke-imbiss.de) ASIAN Owner/chef Tim Raue’s self-titled restaurant wows critics and diners alike with its creative Asian Fusion cooking, left. The minimalist interior – simple blue seating and white walls with the odd painting or piece of Chinese pottery – is the ideal setting to enjoy such dishes as Shanghainese pork chin, coriander and papaya. You can’t really go wrong with their four- or six-course signature menu – from €128 to €168. (Rudi-Dutschke-Strasse 26, +49 302 593 7930; tim-raue.com)
Above, chef Till Bühlmann from Richard restaurant and, right, pretty-as-a-picture dining at Tim Raue. Below, the bullet-spattered Sammling Boros art museum.
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of the German capital (Platz der Republik 1, +49 302 270; bundestag.de). Due to the historic partition, the city is split into two central hubs on either side of the sprawling Tiergarten Park. In the west is the wide, tree-lined avenue that is the mecca of upscale shopping, Kurfürstendamm; and in the east, the public square of Alexanderplatz, in the Mitte district. Here, in this metropolis’ most central borough is a smorgasbord of quirky, fascinating museums and galleries. None more so than Sammlung Boros (Reinhardtstrasse 20, +49 302 408 33300; sammlungboros.de), which was converted into the latter from a monolithic, bullet-hole scarred, war bunker. It houses a private collection of more than 500 exhibits spread over five floors, among them installations, paintings, drawings and sculptures by luminaries such as Damien Hirst, Wolfgang Tillmans and Ai Weiwei. Only a couple of streets away, grab an eyeful, perhaps literally, at Berliner Medizinhistorisches Museum (Charitéplatz 1, +49 304 505 36156; bmm-charite.de): its permanent exhibition chronicles the evolution of medical science over the last 300 years. Not as visceral but just as enthralling is Museum der Dinge (Oranienstrasse 25, +49 309 210 6311; museumderdinge.de) in the German capital’s most AERLINGUS.COM |
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DESTINATION | BERLIN
SLEEP AT … EXCLUSIVE Casual splendour meets raw Berliner glamour at Soho House, top, which occupies eight floors of a colossal Bauhaus building. Located in Mitte, the 65 rooms (they also have apartments and lofts) contain plush, custom-made furniture, the ubiquitous flat-screen TV, free standing bathtubs, rain showers etc. This hotel is part of an international members’ club, and those who stay here are welcome to use their facilities – the standout being a stunning rooftop swimming pool and terrace. Doubles from €250 per night. (Torstrasse 1, +49 304 050 440; sohohouseberlin.com)
bohemian district, Kreuzberg. It’s an institution seemingly assembled by kleptomaniacs, housing more than 15,000 objects, from the kitsch to the avant-garde, that shine a light on mass industrial production goods from the last century. In summer, native Berliners eschew the thronging hordes at the urban beach Strandbar Mitte and head for the more sedate Müggelsee (Köpenick; am-mueggelsee.de). Roughly 45 minutes out of town, Berlin’s biggest lake has three exquisite bathing areas, including the lido and bordering FKK Beach, and the charming resort at Friedrichshagen. In the neighbourhood of Wedding, Freibad Plötzensee (strandbad-ploetzensee.de) is an under-the-radar gem of soft-underfoot yellow sand, sizable wooden dock and waterslide. It’s also relaxing to chill on quaint lawns, surrounded by the sprawling Grunewald forest (3,000 hectares), before dipping into the curved, aquamarine lake at Krumme Lanke. Or, instead of jumping into water to keep cool, wet your whistle at Berlin’s oldest beer garden, Prater (Kastanienallee 7-9, +49 304 485 688; pratergarten.de). Established in 1837 and open from April to September, an enthusiastic crowd sit around big wooden tables in the shade of horse chestnut trees, feasting on bratwurst and swigging locally brewed lagers. Later, fling yourself through the Green Door (Winterfeldtstrasse 50, +49 302 152 515; greendoor.de). This dimly lit, two-room speakeasy prays at the altar of retro chic – think curvy white walls, plaid wallpaper and framed 1970s pictures. And they do more than 60 cocktails (from €10),
RETRO Another fantastic bolthole is the quirky Ostel hostel. Situated in a Plattenbau building – made out of large, prefabricated concrete slabs – in the residential part of Friedrichshain, it offers a welcome dose of nostalgia by introducing guests to the cool retro-kitsch of 1970s and 1980s East Germany. Sleeping quarters are fitted out with reproduction wallpaper and original furniture from the period. Doubles from €39 per night. (Wriezener Karree 5, +49 302 576 8660; ostel.eu) ARTY In the centre of town, a quick stroll away from the Brandenburg Gate and Unter den Linden, a stay in Arte Luise Kunsthotel is like being in an indie art gallery set inside a lovingly restored neoclassical 1825 townhouse (a listed building); all of the bright, spacious rooms have been designed by individual artists. Food-wise, there’s an in-house restaurant, Habel, which serves regional and Mediterranean cuisine. Doubles from €85 per night. (Luisenstrasse 19, +49 302 844 80; luise-berlin.com) 66 |
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Top left, Soho House and urban gardening project, Prinzessinnengarten. This picture, morning contemplation at the Freibad Plötzensee.
SMART TIPS PRIDE & JOY Rainbow flags aloft – Europe’s largest LGBT shindig, the 24th Lesbian and Gay Festival, shimmies into Nollendorfplatz on July 16-17. stadtfest.berlin
including the knock-your-socks-off Gin Gin Bash. Afterwards, rock up to alternative nightclub About Blank (Markgrafendamm 24c). Although its graffiti-splashed exterior is the definition of run-down, the interior is a hedonistic haven. Located behind Ostkreuz S-Bahn station, a hip, friendly bunch strut their stuff on two main dance floors, with hard house and techno being staples. Although Mauerpark (Bernauer Strasse 63-64; mauerpark.info) is the best-known flea market in Berlin, it can get a tad overcrowded, so try a low-key rummage at the Raw Flohmarkt (Revalerstrasse 99; rawflohmarkt-berlin.de) held every Sunday 9am-7pm. Have a banter with the traders who sell everything from antiques to clothing, to books and sunglasses – there’s live music, too. Bargains can also be picked up at the flea market
Mellow yellow – a vibrant home in Kreuzberg, top. Above left, lunch at Mundvoll on Waldemarstrasse 48.
AL FRESCO This year ma rks the 25th anniversary of the Classic Open Air concer t series (classicopenair.de). Situ ated in the imposing Gendarme nmarkt Square, expect to be ser enaded by various eras and styles of music – Gershwin, Eva Lin d– this July 21-25. FLORAL Don’t miss the chance to spend some tim e in the romantic milieu of the Botanical Gardens, during their marvellous Botanical Nig ht, July 16. Be intoxicated by the wonderful aroma of more than 22,000 plants, as you ind ulge in a programme that inc ludes guided tours, cabaret, dan ce and theatre. (Königin-Luise Str asse 6, +49 308 385 0100; bgbm.o rg)
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BAUHAUS ARCHIV HANS GLAVE
DESTINATION | BERLIN
HANS SCHERHAUFER
Clockwise from top, design classics at the Bauhaus-Archiv; Mr Bowie; Dietrich exhibit at the Museum für Film und Fernsehen; Berliner barista, Melis.
outside the town hall (Rathaus) in Schöneberg (JohnF-Kennedy-Platz 1; flohmarktberlin.net), ), while a unique way to further explore this leafy neighbourhood, and Kreuzberg, is on the three-hour David Bowie Walk (+49 303 087 5633; musictours-berlin.com). ). It passes by many of the late, great musician’s former haunts, such as the Haupstrasse flat flat he shared with Iggy Pop for three years, and the Hansa Studios, where he recorded two out of the three Berlin trilogy albums – Low and Heroes. Th Thee titular track from the latter is about a pair of lovers standing at the monolithic edifi edifice ce that partitioned this city for more than 40 years during the Cold War: the Berlin Wall. It’s no surprise that Marlene Dietrich was born in the German capital as, in a way, the actress’s personality mirrored the city: cool, edgy and with an air of mystery. The Museum für Film und Fernsehen (Potsdamer Strasse 2, +49 303 009 030; deutsche-kinemathek.de) celebrates her life, with a three-room permanent exhibition featuring costumes, photographs and letters. In fact, the screen siren loved her hometown so much that in 1957 she sang “I’ll still keep a suitcase in Berlin” ... which were my sentiments exactly, as I left this über-metropolis. 68 |
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MUST DOS MUSEUMS You’re spoilt for choice in the German capital, as there are more than 175 of these institutions. Perhaps most notable are the 17 State Museums, which include the five on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Museumsinsel, or Museum Island (smb.museum). You can gain admission (smb.museum to the whole lot with a three-day Museum Pass (adult €24; child €12), with a couple of the most memorable being the Alte Nationalgalerie and the Pergamon. PFAUENINSEL Whisk yourself off to a place that could be the setting for any fairy tale, the extraordinary 67-hectare Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island). Roughly an hour’s journey – train and short ferry ride – from the city centre, the main attraction on this nature reserve is the eponymous quirky, 1794-constructed, white palace. Relax and have a picnic in the enchanting landscaped gardens or observe the plethora of wildlife, buffaloes, including buff aloes, frogs, goats and Shetland ponies. (Nikolskoer Weg, +49 331 969 4200; spsg.de) BAUHAUS ARCHIVE The Bauhaus school of design, crafts and architecture totally revolutionised the aesthetic in fields those fi elds by experimenting with form Influenced and function. Infl uenced by Modernism, it was established by Walter Gropius in 1919, who designed the building that houses the Bauhaus-Archiv. Inside, there’s a showcase of representative objects from all aspects of the movement: ceramics, furniture, metal, etc. (Klingelhöferstrasse 14, +49 302 540 020; bauhaus.de)
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SMART EDIT | ROOFTOP WONDERS
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You say, we say ...
ROOFTOP WONDERS
for heavenly vistas
Our edit of your best roof gardens, bars and farms.
ise and shine! Now that the sun is firmly out (hopefully), we can’t think of a better way to while away a few vitamin-D drenched hours than to head upstairs and outdoors. Hotels, cultural centres, office blocks and even multi-storey car parks – see PARK Bar, opposite – have all started opening up their rooftop spaces for the summer rush. And it’s not just about drinking, dining and frolicking against a backdrop of splendiferous views either. Selfless, self-sustainable and enterprising folk have even created aerial allotments and farms for feeding the masses. Whether an urban oasis of craft cocktails or a recently renovated lighthouse, your favourite elevated exteriors are now ours to share. Lifting one’s spirits this summer has never looked better than from one of these bird’s-eye beauties ...
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Mama Shelter, Los Angeles Sundowners with views of the Hollywood sign, and just a block away from the storied Sunset Boulevard – what more could you ask for? Mama Shelter is one of the more playful boutique brands out there, and its LA hotel is no exception, from the foosball table and oldschool sweet dispensers in the lobby to the colourful furniture and textiles in its popular rooftop restaurant. There, take your pick from a film-titled cocktail (Midnight Run or An American in Paris anyone?) or live a little with
the Za’atar Margarita, combining tequila, lime, agave, dry caracao and za’atar salt. And in typical Angeleno style, this lofty hotspot is not just for carousing: it also double-jobs as an outdoor yoga studio. (6500 Selma Avenue, +1 323 785 6666; mamashelter.com)
Aer Lingus flies direct from Dublin to Los Angeles four times per week.
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Fanad Lighthouse, Donegal
failte ireland
Rooftops don’t come more pleasing than from this restored lighthouse on Fanad Head. The result of a €300,000 restoration, Fanad Lighthouse is back open for business – as a tourist attraction. Now visitors to the Wild Atlantic Way can learn not just about the structure’s history, which turns 200 next year, but also the local area and its marine life via a permanent exhibition of historical maps, lighthouse keepers’ log books and semaphore flags. There are even self-catering lodgings. (Arryheernabin, Co Donegal, 083 809 1199; fanadlighthouse.com)
PARK Bar, Lisbon This sky-covered terrace on the sixth floor of a multi-storey car park is a top-notch rendezvous point for an evening’s bar-hopping in Lisbon’s happening Bairro Alto. Don’t be put off by the the climb up the graffiti-scrawled flights of stairs: it all just adds to the gritty urban intrigue. Nab a seat, order one of their very well-made mojitos, and drink in the spectacular vista of the city’s 25 de Abril bridge – provided you can keep your peepers off the cutting-edge crew that gather to see and be seen as the light of day fades into the blue of the night. (Calçada do Combro, 58, +351 21 591 4011)
lisbonlux.com
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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon daily.
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SMART EDIT | ROOFTOP WONDERS
4 Brooklyn Grange Farm, New York
BROOKLYN GRANGE FARM
Rambling fields are not necessary for growing fresh produce, as Brooklyn Grange pioneers well know. Founded in 2010, the green-fingered go-getters now operate the world’s largest rooftop soil farms, located on two rooftops in New York City, growing more than 20 tonnes of organically cultivated produce per year. So successful was their Long Island City flagship that they created a second farm in Brookyln Navy Yard, left, a 19,800-squaremetre colossus of fruit, vegetables and even free-range hens and apiary (bee hives). Visitors can take group tours of the farms, while other on-site events include evening yoga and meditation, food workshops, dinner parties, bird watching and honey harvesting. (+1 347 670 3660; brooklyngrangefarm.com)
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York up to three times daily, and from Shannon daily.
5 Pod 39, New York The Big Apple’s skyline is arguably best viewed from up high and Pod 39 Hotel’s rooftop bar provides the perfect perch for an after-sightseeing aperitif. Enter through its first-floor Mexican pit-stop Salvation Taco and check in with the hostess for a space up top. And, once ensconced, that unmistakable eyeful of the Empire State is yours to treasure. (145 East 39th Street, +1 212 865 5700; thepodhotel.com)
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newcastledesign.ie 0404 65000 BY APPOINTMENT ONLY
Handcrafted Cabinetry
SMART EDIT | ROOFTOP WONDERS
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Queen Elizabeth Hall, London To be tired of London’s South Bank is to be tired of life. One of the UK capital’s loveliest spots for an amble, this Thames-side stretch is even better in summer when Queen Elizabeth Hall’s Roof Garden Bar and Café reopens to the public. Its wildflower meadow (boasting more than 150 species of native wildflowers), woodland and scented flowers are a welcome contrast to the building’s love-itor-loathe-it Brutalist architecture. Add a bellini with wild strawberries – boom! Summer sorted. (Southbank Centre, +44 20 7960 4200; southbankcentre.co.uk)
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7 Dalston Roof Park, London Trust East London’s hipster enclave, Dalston, to gussy up a humdrum exterior into a neighbourhood triumph. A natty nest of AstroTurf, beanbags, disco balls, allotments, pop-up food residencies and beer garden, the Bootstrap-run DRP is only two months’ old but already on the must-visit map. Says Dublin-born, London-based photographer Steve Ryan, who regularly shoots for Cara: “It’s on the roof of my office building – I’m there most weeks after work. Beer is supplied by 40FT Brewery, a microbrewery next door, and monthly food residencies chosen by Root + Bone magazine.” (18 Ashwin Street, +44 20 7275 0825; bootstrapcompany.co.uk)
Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow, and daily flights from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.
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VICTOR FRANKOWSKI & SOUTHBANK CENTRE
The Rooftop Gardens, London
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Flamingos in Central London? Are we having a giraffe? No, actually. There are four such residents – yes, real-life, not plastic ones – tucked away at the back of the English Woodland at The Rooftop Gardens in swanky Kensington. This bucolic sanctuary 30 metres above London town was originally opened in 1938. The Alhambra Palace-inspired Spanish Garden is still a stunner and stays true to the plans of landscape architect Ralph Hancock. The Tudor Garden, in contast to the Moorish idyll, offers a little slice of Wolf Hall (but without the cloaks, daggers and beheadings, of course). In the same building is Babylon Terrace restaurant and a private members’ club. As such, photo ID is required for entry into the lush gardens. (99 Kensington High Street, +44 207 937 7994; virginlimitededition.com)
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SMART EDIT | ROOFTOP WONDERS
The honeymoon potential of the Amalfi Coast’s Casa Angelina is off the charts. What love-birds couldn’t imagine themselves clinking champagne flutes and spooning tiramisu into each other’s mouths beside this fantastic view? Located some 65 kilometres from Naples airport, boutique hotel Casa Angelina’s top-floor restaurant is romantically named Un Piano nel Cielo – “floor in the sky”. Wibble. (Via Capriglione, 147,+39 089 813 1333 / 00 800 3746 8357; designhotels.com)
DESIGN HOTELS
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Casa Angelina, Praiano
AthensWas Hotel If you can steal yourself away from stroking the oh-so-tactile Greek marble and shiny walnut in this contemporary hotel, you might just make it to the outdoor terrace of its rooftop restaurant, Modern. Once there, ogle the Acropolis and Temple of the Olympian Zeus, both of which are a mere shot-put away. And as the sun starts to melt over the ancient city, choose between some appropriately monikered cocktails: The Athens Marathon, Golden Century, Parthenon’s Glow and Olympic Spirit. (Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, +30 21 0924 9954 / 00 800 3746 8357; designhotels.com)
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Athens three times per week.
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DESIGN HOTELS
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Naples daily.
OVER TO YOU
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Next issue we share your favourite sports venues (arenas, stadiums, pitches, etc) in Aer Lingus destinations. Have your say @CARAMagazine, using the hashtag #CaraYSWS.
14 June – 4 September
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DESTINATION | SAN FRANCISCO Past and presence – below, the imposing and informative Palace of Culture and Science. Opposite, Michelle Kapuscinska, a professional “nose” at Mo61 Perfume Lab.
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IN POLE POSITION
Warsaw is fast emerging as a must-see city break, thanks to a thriving food, design and culture scene. WORDS YVONNE GORDON PHOTOGRAPHS MATTHEW THOMPSON
DESTINATION | WARSAW
tart with the base, then choose the flavour,” says the waiter, who is talking us through the drinking chocolate menu. The “bases” are milk, dark, bittersweet and white and the choice of 12 flavours to add includes blackcurrant, rose petals, chilli and caramel with sea salt. After this, there’s whipped cream, ice cream, rum or a liqueur. We’re in E. Wedel in Warsaw (Szpitalna 8, +48 22 827 2916; wedelpijalnie.pl), an old-time café with red and gold walls, dark wood furniture and chandeliers. This “chocolate lounge” has been here since 1894, part of the famous E. Wedel chocolate brand, but in the surrounding streets there are buildings of all eras, from eye-
“S
Sleeking beauties – Maciej Slomkowski, above, presides over the boutique Flash on Mokotowska 26. Right, rich pickings at “the chocolate lounge” E. Wedel.
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catching Communist architecture to smart, glass-fronted boutiques and shopping centres. Warsaw, Poland’s capital, has emerged from a mixed history into a city thriving with creativity, designers and talented chefs. As with the drinking chocolate, you can pick a base and explore the city from there – whether you are interested in historical themes such as Frédéric Chopin’s story (the composer grew up here); the city’s Jewish and Second World War history; the legacy of the more recent Communist era or the innovative design and dining scene
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DESTINATION | WARSAW
SLEEP AT … HISTORIC Dating back to 1913, the Polonia Palace is among the city’s oldest, and has a fantastic city-centre location. Doubles from 275 PLN. (Al. Jerozolimskie 45, +48 22 318 2800; poloniapalace.com) DESIGN H15 Boutique Hotel’s 19th-century building was once a Soviet Union Embassy. Now, it’s all Egg chairs and striking artworks. Doubles from 360 PLN. (Ulica Poznańska 15, +48 22 553 8700; h15boutiqueapartments.com) CHARMING In Old Town, the quirky Castle Inn has themed rooms, from the sleeper-car inspired Orient Express to an Escher boudoir. Doubles from 200 PLN. (Ulica Świętojańska +48 22 425 0100; castleinn.pl) ART DECO Previously, Hotel Rialto was a tenement house but has since been restored to five-star glory. Rooms from 434 PLN. (Wilcza 73, +48 22 584 87 00; rialto.pl) BOUTIQUE Another ex-tenement property, Aparthotel Stalowa 52 nails post-industrial chic with flair. Rooms from 180 PLN. (ul. Stalowa 52, +48 22 618 27 32; stalowa52.pl) 82 |
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of today. And, like the chocolate, it is by mixing the rich selection of flavours, areas and experiences that you get a full taste of the city. A good first base to explore is the Old Town with its Medieval architecture, including cobbled alleyways, city walls and a moat. Although the town dates back to the 13th century, it was destroyed during the Second World War and meticulously rebuilt from the rubble, gaining UNESCO World Heritage site status in the process. The Market Place is surrounded by 17th-century merchants’ houses, while St John’s Archcathedral has the crypts of dukes, kings and presidents. Also in the Old Town, the attractive Royal Castle was reconstructed over 13 years from 1971.
For coffee, head to the charming Shabby Chic coffee and wine bar (Piwna 20/26; +48 572 715 041) to watch the world go by or book dinner at Karmnik (Piwna 4a, +48 22 468 0664; karmnik.waw. pl) for Polish slow food dishes of roast duck, salmon or steak and an impressive vodka menu. From the Old Town, take a stroll along Krakowskie Przedmieście, the city’s grand boulevard of palaces, churches and mansions, where you’ll pass the Presidential Palace, the elegant Bristol Hotel, the University of Warsaw and the Baroque Church of The Holy Cross, where Chopin’s heart rests in an urn, according to his wishes. Drop into Zapiecek (Krakowskie Przedmieście 55, +48 22 692 7204; zapiecek.eu) for hand-made pierogi –
traditional Polish dumplings filled with meat, vegetables or cheese. Nearby, Nowy Świat is a lively street popular with visitors for its shops, cafés, bars and restaurants and is pedestrianised at weekends. However, head over to Plac Zbawiciela (Saviour Square) to get a caffeine fix with the locals. Or, in the French-themed Charlotte (Plac Zbawiciela, +48 662 204 555; bistrocharlotte.pl), breakfast is served until midnight and baskets of breads and pastries are accompanied by huge jars of homemade preserves – white chocolate, strawberry and orange. It’s a popular spot – even on a weekday at 4pm, there’s a queue for a table. Mokotowska is Warsaw’s “designer” street, though with more Polish designers than international
Opposite, clockwise from far left, fragrance shop Galilu; Manal Hamood Al-Hammadi on refreshments; humble yet hearty dishes at Prasowy restaurant; the fashion designer Robert Kupisz; the Polin Museum of the History of Polish Jews, and Natalia Barszcz taking time out in Łazienki Park. Above, pink-toned façades in Old Town.
fashion brands and prices in the hundreds of euro rather than the thousands. Punctuated by salons, florists and patisseries are showrooms of designers such as Robert Kupisz who mixes rock, street and grunge styles (Mokotowska 48/204, +48 506 170 801; robertkupisz.com) and the simple, elegant pieces of jeweller Ania Kruk (Mokotowska 46, +48 887 600 101; aniakruk.pl). Fragrance shop Galilu (Mokotowska 26, +48 22 121 9932, galilu.pl) stocks high-end perfumes by Diptyque and Malin+Goetz but at Mo61 Perfume Lab (Mokotowska 61, +48 601 652 593; mo61.pl), shelves are filled with rows of dark bottles and you can create your own fragrance, guided by trained experts. Start by choosing
a base such as sandalwood or white tea, then add a floral heart such as daisy, and finally an aromatic “head” such as pink pepper or ginger – and take it away in a hand-luggagefriendly 30ml bottle. If you have time, take a trip across the River Vistula to the up-and-coming Praga area on the city’s east side. When Communism ended in Poland in 1989, artists moved into former factory spaces,
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to WARSAW four times per week.
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DESTINATION | WARSAW
EAT AT ... FINE DINING Poland’s first restaurant to get a Michelin star, Atelier Amaro serves up culinary art with a series of creative amuse-bouches and a tasty five- or eight-course menu option. The weekly menu is based on nature’s calendar and chef Wojciech Modest Amaro searches and forages for unusual ingredients. (Agrykola 1, +48 22 628 5747; atelieramaro.pl) WINE With wine bottles and glasses stretching up to the ceiling, the focus at buzzing restaurant Kieliszki – Na Próz˙nej (“Glasses on Próżna Street”) is on balancing what’s on the plate with what is in the glass,
with vino from small European winemakers matched with dishes based on Polish traditions. (Ulica Próżna 12, +48 501 764 674; kieliszkinaproznej.pl) BUDGET State-run during the Communist years, “milk bars” provided simple, nourishing and protein-rich food to workers for a good price. These Soviet-era canteens are still popular. Although Prasowy has been renovated, prices are still rock-bottom – for example, tomato soup with pasta is around 2.50PLN (approx 60 cent). (Marszalkowskiej 10/16, +48 666 353 776; prasowy.pl)
Below, Jerzy Uroczech at former Soviet canteen, Prasowy, pictured top left. Far left, a beetroot cocktail at Bar Studio, and ace chef Wojciech Modest Amaro.
DRINK AT ... COCKTAILS Pies Czy Suka is a creative space selling craft cocktails plus furniture and design items. There are regular exhibitions and its inventive cocktails use unusual ingredients such as Genever (Dutch gin), Gouda cheese and orange, combined to make The Flying Dutchman. Don’t be surprised to see molecular foam in your drink. (Ulica Szpitalna 8a, +48 501 850 114) CULTURE You’ll often find live music, film screenings and plays along with the cocktails at Bar Studio at the base of the Palace of Culture and Science – which looms 84 |
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above the terrace. The Palace itself is now a cultural hotspot with a café, cinema and museums. (Plac Defilad 1, +48 603 300 835; barstudio.pl) LIVELY Jars are the theme at Sloik. Rows of the colourful glass containers nod to the method of preserving products in them, and both food and drink here is served in jars. This cocktail bar and restaurant is loud, but house cocktails are creative, such as the Black and Chilli with vodka and chilli syrup. (Ulica Zlota 11, +48 600 396 688; restauracjasloik.pl)
And you round the corner of Grafton Street and Duke Street and there it is and damn it if you can’t help but feel good. That’s because its geniality reaches out to you, across the busy street, snaking through the shoppers and musicians and takes you by the arm. “How’s things?” asks The Bailey.
bailey Your favourite bar & bistro in Dublin
Duke Street, Dublin 2, Ireland
Let’s talk about it over a cold bellini or a Fleurie Villa Ponciago or an ale. The weight of the world falls from your shoulders at The Bailey which is why it quickly becomes so many peoples favourite bar. Sitting there on Duke Street, just off Grafton Street, like a favourite, if slightly eccentric, uncle. Let’s eat.
T. 01 6704939 www.baileybarcafe.com
DESTINATION | WARSAW
3 MUST VISITS ... HISTORY Don’t miss the Polin Museum of the History of Polish Jews which tells the story of Jews in Poland over 1,000 years, not just during the Holocaust. You can travel through the different time periods via a series of excellent galleries and multimedia exhibits. The museum was named 2016 European Museum of the Year. (Anielewicza 6, +48 22 471 0301; polin.pl) OUTDOORS In good weather, head to Łazienki Park for 76 hectares of gardens, paths and extravagant structures such as a historic bathing pavilion, palaces and temples
to admire. The highlight is the free, open-air Chopin concert every Sunday at noon and 4pm during the summer at the Chopin monument. (Ulica Agrykoli 1, +48 22 506 0028; lazienki-krolewskie.pl) CITY VIEWS A gift from the Soviets in the 1950s, Art Deco-style high-rise the Palace of Culture and Science was disliked by locals at first but is now a cultural hotspot. There are some impressive Socialist Realism features but don’t miss the 30th–floor viewing deck with city views. (Plac Defilad 1, +48 22 656 7600; pkin.pl)
SMART TIPS MUSIC Drop in to the international open-air festival Jazz na Starówce (Jazz at the Old Town) at the Old Town Market Square for free concerts ever y Saturday at 7pm between July 2 and August 27. (Old Town, +48 501 140 523; jazznastarowce.pl) FOOD The Saturday Breakfast Market, at Żoliborz and Praga, is an excellent source of traditional Polish food, with ever ything from fruit and vegetables to dairy, meats, cheeses, preserves and delicious pastries. As well as outdoor dining, there are children’s workshops, a playground and free Wi-Fi. (Saturdays 8am-4pm, also Sundays in Mokotów, +48 508 121 891; targsniadaniowy.pl/en) For further details on Warsaw see warsawtour.pl; for more information on Poland, visit poland.travel.
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Clockwise from top left, taking a load off in Łazienki Park; electric dreams at the Neon Museum; the Palace of Culture and Science is a Warsaw high point.
starting a creative zone. At Soho Factory (Mińska 25, sohofactory.pl), the PRL Museum (+48 606 225 525; adventurewarsaw.pl) tells the story of Communist times with a selection of typical household items and at the Neon Museum (+48 665 711 635; neonmuzeum.org) there’s a colourful collection of neon signs saved from around the city. Moreover, don’t miss Warszawa Wschodnia restaurant (+48 22 870 2918, gessler.sohofactory.pl/en) in a large former industrial space. In
the 24/7 zone (a 24-hour kitchen), diners on stools can watch as chefs cook food around the clock, or choose the restaurant next door for Polish specials. Spend a few days in Warsaw and you’ll come across stories, buildings and traditions from all eras and you’ll just start to understand all the history and culture that makes the city unique. No two areas are the same but, at the heart of each, you’ll find a rich blend of flavours and layers to whet the appetite.
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DESTINATION | MALLORCA
Class Act The hills and secluded coves of Mallorca are where A-listers like to make their hideaways. Now boasting no less than seven Michelin-starred restaurants, the island offers way more than chips and beer resorts. WORDS INGMAR KIANG PHOTOGRAPHS Ă INE TEAHAN
Canal life, Blauwburgwal, in Centrum.
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DESTINATION | MALLORCA
t would be difficult, and perhaps dishonest, to discuss any Balearic island without some reference to cheap package holidays and cheaper beer, so let’s get it out of the way ... Sure enough, landing at Palma airport, I’m greeted by a throng of stilettoed lovelies adorned with pink sashes proclaiming they’re on a “Girls’ Night Out”, while beyond a gaggle of young men sing a song whose lyric extends to little more than the word “Oi”. But it’s the last I see of them. They exit stage left, headed for the 24/7 happy hours of Magaluf and Santa Ponsa, following in the footsteps of the countless Britons who fuelled the “Majorca with a J” tourism boom of the 1960s and 1970s. The next day, I enjoy lunch on the terrace at Belmond La Residencia
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Ifs and buttresses – Palma’s monumental Catedral de Santa María, above. Below, waves gently lap the Playa de Muro.
(see ‘Sleep at’, page 93), the hotel that embodies the island’s upmarket rebrand personified by the return of double “l” in its name. Mallorca is now home to no less than seven Michelin-starred restaurants (one of the highest per capita concentrations in the world), and counts numerous A-listers, such as Jack Nicholson, Tom Cruise and Rafa Nadal among its residents and frequent visitors. The hills are dotted with billionaires’ hideaways, most famously La Fortaleza in Pollensa, reputed to be Spain’s most valuable property; fans of the hit BBC series The Night Manager will recognise it as the lair of nefarious arms dealer Richard Roper, played by Hugh Laurie. La Residencia itself was created by Richard Branson who, with typical foresight, bought and restored the large estate back in 1987. The beautiful people, or what used to be known as the “international jet-set”, soon followed, attracted by the island’s
DESTINATION | MALLORCA
“Artist Joan Miró felt that Mallorca ‘... still feels as fresh as if the world had just been created’”
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Blooming lovely – Sant Elm, opposite and below right, on Mallorca’s western-most tip, is a fine spot in which to unwind. Right, swanking it up at La Residencia Deià and, far right, it’s cocktail hour for Elisabeth Gordon, outside the Hostal Cuba. Below left, a dipworthy setting at Hotel Mon Port.
SLEEP AT … SCENIC Situated in Port d’Andratx, about 32 kilometres west of Palma, the four-star Hotel Mon Port is a low-rise complex leavened with traditional Mallorcan styling. It’s surgically clean and runs with an almost ruthless efficiency (a fact no doubt appreciated by its largely German clientele), starting with a magnificent buffet breakfast and ending with the bar closing at midnight, no exceptions. Rooms from €209. (Finca la Noria, Calle Cala d’Egos, 07157 Puerto de Andratx, +34 971 238 623; hotelmonport.com) SWANKY Part of the exclusive Belmond group, Belmond La Residencia caters for jet-setters accustomed to the best of the best. Formerly owned, and renovated, by Richard Branson, the hillside haven boasts over a dozen swimming pools, a gym used by world-class athletes, and its own olive groves producing a limited-edition olive oil. Original works by Miró hang in the bar, while artists-in-residence are available for private lessons. Lunch on the terrace is a glorious experience. Rooms from €670. (Son Canals, 07179 Deià, +34 971 639 011; belmond.com/ la-residencia-mallorca) VENERABLE With its prime central location and beautifully restored Art Deco fittings, Hotel Hostal Cuba is Palma’s go-to boutique hotel. Over 100 years old, the building had been allowed to run to seed until a bus driver won the lottery, bought the hotel and set about its renovation. It has a nightclub, restaurant, two bars and a rooftop terrace. Note: despite double-glazing some of the lower floor rooms may not be perfectly quiet. Rooms from €207. (Sant Magi 1, Santa Catalina, 07013 Palma, +34 971 452 237; hotelhostalcuba.com)
climate, culture and reputation for quiet discretion. I get the impression the locals aren’t overlyimpressed by bling, and they have a reputation for being more serious and reserved than their compatriots on the mainland. Perhaps their quiet nature is the result of a contentment with living on an idyll that the artist Joan Miró felt “... still feels as fresh as if the world had just been created”. Mallorca’s hot-but-not-too-hot climate – annual temperatures average a comfortable 20 degrees – not only lures holidaymakers to the island, but also allows its farmers to produce fruit and vegetables of supreme quality. In turn, this has helped create a simple yet distinctive cuisine, exemplified by the regional favourite, pamboli. Translated as bread and oil, I sample it in different forms on a number of occasions, as it’s available just about everywhere: two or three slices of toasted bread slathered with olive oil, a thin
tomato paste and whatever-you’rehaving-yourself – ham, sardines, calamari etc, garnished with a crisp salad. Fresh, seasonal and local, and to use another cliché from the foodcritic lexicon, a supreme example of “letting the ingredients speak for themselves”. Fish and meats are similarly simply presented, perhaps with a light dusting of spices of Moorish origin, but nothing to scare even the most conservative palate. The North African influence is also evident as I amble around Palma, in its archways and tilework (the Moors controlled the island for centuries) – and its small markets
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PALMA daily.
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EAT AT …
that resemble souks, selling lasta-lifetime rugs and expensive leatherwork. I can’t help noticing that the jewellery is also of a high standard, with both traditional and modern designs reflecting the islanders’ well-developed aesthetic sensibilities. Indeed, Mallorca, unlike many other sun and sand destinations, has a lot to satisfy the culture vulture: the massive 14th-century Bellver Castle (Carrer de Camilo José Cela, s/n 07014, Palma, +34 971 735 065; castelldebellver. palma.cat), one of Europe’s few circular fortifications, houses Palma’s history museum and also affords spectacular views over the city; Miró’s studio is now also a museum, the Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró (Carrer de Saridakis 29, +34 971 701 420; miro. palmademallorca.es), housing many of his later works. Elsewhere, the church and Royal Carthusian Monastery (Claustre de la Cartoixa, 4, +34 971 612 181) in picturesque Valldemossa is adorned with frescoes by Miguel 94 |
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You know you’re not in Ireland anymore when ... lemons are growing on trees, above. Top right and bottom, stock up on fish and fizz at Palma’s Santa Catalina Market. Right, artful dishes at the Club de Golf Alcanada.
MARKETS No self-respecting foodlover can stay in Palma without visiting at least one of its many markets. San Juan Gastronomic Market sells posh, readyto-eat international foods alongside indigenous fare. Or there’s the more traditional Santa Catalina – the size of a hockey pitch crammed with fishmongers, fruit‘n’veg traders, butchers, bakers and tapas bars. Stop off at the Rojas family’s stand where the staff will guide you, in English, through the best of the country’s hams and cheeses. (Plaça Navegació s/n, 07013 Palma, +34 971 730 710; mercatdesantacatalina.com) HUMBLE In typical Mallorcan style, Tigy’s doesn’t make a big deal of itself: there’s no website and barely a shopfront sign. This is no bad thing. Concentrating on the simple regional speciality pamboli, each dish is freshly made with quality ingredients. With generous portions, reasonable prices, friendly service and a beautiful seafront location, this is cheap and cheerful in the best sense of the phrase. (Avenida de Jaime I 10, 07159 Sant Elm, +34 971 239 020) STARRY Originally based in Madrid, Fernando Pérez Arellano’s Zaranda won its first Michelin star in 2006. The young chef, who had trained at, among others, Patrick Guilbaud’s in Dublin, then moved his entire operation to Mallorca. Zaranda offers tasting menus (€115-€155) along with à la carte, and its emphasis on all things Mallorcan extends to tableware made by local craftsmen. (Castell Son Claret, Carretera CapdellaGalilea, +34 971 138 627; zaranda.es)
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DESTINATION | MALLORCA
MUST DOS … GOLF Mallorca offers many opportunities for the serious player, with the Alcanada course ranked among the best in Europe. Owned by the Porsche family, the 6.5 kilometre, championship-quality course (the Stimp of the greens is normally between 10-12) allows players to enjoy sea views while surrounded by pine and olive groves. Fees of €130150 for 18 holes apply. Lessons from certified PGA pros, using the latest technology such as Flightscope and Swing Catalyst, are also available. And the all-important 19th hole, here a beautiful terrace restaurant, is well above par. (Carretera del Faro s/n, 07400 Port d’Alcúdia, +34 971 549 560; golf-alcanada.com) SEGWAY TOUR As well as being great fun, Segway tours are doubly advantageous in warmer climes, as you get to cover twice the distance one might travel on foot without breaking into a sweat. Using the latest generation of Ninebot gyro scooters, the Old City Tour (€35 per person) lasts about an hour after a short training session, running through pedestrianised streets and along the city walls, taking in the cathedral, palaces and more. Alternative routes of longer duration are also available. Anyone nervous about stepping onto one of these machines should remember that they
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were initially developed as mobility aids for the elderly and infirm – the typical new user will be manoeuvring like an expert within minutes. (Carrer Vidrieria 8, Palma, 07001, +34 971 781 194; funrunpalma.com) KAYAKING As adventure sports go, seashore kayaking has to be the most user-friendly for even the laziest of landlubbers. A few minutes’ instruction at Keida outdoors activity centre and you’re off, skimming across the water at a surprisingly fast and easy-to-manage clip. After that, it’s your choice between an aerobic workout or little more than a leisurely paddle. Sant Elm’s beautifully clean, tranquil waters invite the latter, though the athletic can opt for the more rigorous excursion to the island of Dragonera. At €35-40 for two or three hours’ activity, it’s great value too. (Sant Elm, Andratx, +34 971 239 124; keida.es)
Sink or paddle – our writer Ingmar Kiang and Sara Rivero López get their oar in. Right, a painting detail at the Fundación Yannick y Ben Jakober and, bottom left, clean lines at Palma’s Purobeach.
Bayeu, Goya’s brother-in-law, while upstairs a small gallery features paintings by Picasso and Francis Bacon. My trip across the island to Alcudia (it takes exactly an hour) brings me to Fundación Yannick y Ben Jakober (Museu Sa Bassa Blanca, Es Mal Pas, +34 900 777 001; fundacionjakober.org), an eccentric and eclectic collection ranging from contemporary naive North African art to an absorbing display of 17th-century children’s portraits on the walls of a converted subterranean reservoir. Mallorca’s bijou dimensions – it’s about half the size of Co Cork – means everywhere is within easy reach, especially with a hire car. The mountains rise steeply and surprisingly high, to around 1,500 metres, making them popular with walkers and professional cyclists. Most of the island is totally unspoilt, despite the tourist numbers, and the rugged coastline hides countless secluded coves and beaches. With a little off-thebeaten-track exploration it’s possible
to find your own personal, totally deserted mini-paradise, even in high season. Speaking of beaches, I end my visit with a few sundowners at Palma’s Purobeach (Carrer de Pagell, 1, +34 971 744 744; purobeach.com), a kind of seafront “experience” for those who don’t want sand in their shoes. Attractive staff, chic decor and tastefully restrained beats provide the backdrop for a “lifestyle concept with food and drinks, lounge, terrace, pool and spa treatments”. A shared Bali bed costs €500 for the day (although individual sun beds are available for about €40) upon which you relax, sip champagne and take selfies. Essentially a nightclub that doesn’t open at night, Purobeach is unashamedly aspirational, a microcosm of Mallorca’s upwardly mobile ambitions. On the short taxi ride to the airport, a 1970s block of cheap souvenir shops, chippers and curry houses passes in a blur, looking almost quaint.
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SMART EDIT | HEALTH BREAKS
5
Best
WELLBEING BREAKS
Jo Linehan discovers the top destinations designed to make you feel good.
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FOR TOTAL TRANSFORMATION
Club La Santa, Lanzarote As host venue for the annual Ironman challenge, Club La Santa has duly earned its stripes as an athleticenthusiast’s mecca. The website proudly boasts "ten great reasons to visit," but we’ve counted over 30 activities alone worth checking in to the resort for. There’s nothing adrenaline junkies can’t get stuck into here – mountain bike over volcanoes, take triathlon training up a notch, TRX or Deep Water Aqua to your heart and muscles’ content at the world’s No.1 sports resort. It’s not all about working up a sweat though – kids camps, idyllic island excursions plus a handful of local markets make this a well-rounded holiday, and a great family break to boot. STAY Chill out in one of the resort’s newly-updated Ocean Suites. Admire the room’s Swedish decor, frolic on your outdoor terrace, make a snack in your fully equipped kitchenette and relax. This room is a sanctuary after an active day’s workout.
FEEL THE BURN Legendary instructor Mel Thomas’ Body Works Week is a bootcamp that packs a punch. Sign up for the August 12-18 course in which every day is timetabled with activities that range from boxing to spinning, TRX training and Stretch & Tone sessions. You really will feel the burn – all over in fact – but once you’ve completed this week, you’ll feel like a new person. No pain, no gain … PACKAGE Stay in a Sea View Suite from €1,450 approx, for seven days. The Body Works Week costs €85 and includes all activities in the programme, breakfast on the final day and a special event T-shirt. clublasanta.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lanzarote daily, and from Cork three times weekly.
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FOR HEADSPACE
Horse Trekking the Camino de Santiago The Camino has been revered as a sacred pilgrimage for over a thousand years, a hallowed destination for travellers in search of a physical and spiritual awakening. The horse trekking option isn’t as widely publicised, but the experience is as enlightening and physically challenging as the walking route. Take in the Spanish countryside, bond with fellow trekkers and allow yourself the time to step away from life’s hectic pace for some real headspace. 100 |
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STAY There are a variety of accommodations along the way. The Walk The Camino team have hand-picked small-scale, friendly, family-run B&Bs along the route but, equally, you can upgrade to a more upscale abode if you’re in need of a little pampering. FEEL THE BURN There are dozens of Camino routes to choose from, but we recommend the seven-day O Cebreiro to Santiago trek. It’s just long enough to give you a taste of Camino life
and will definitely bring you the clarity you seek. PACKAGE The experience of seven days on the trail from O Cebreiro to Santiago including airport pick-up, full board accommodation, horses and equipment, tour guide, support vehicle and baggage transfers starts from £1,565 (€1,986 approx). walkthecamino.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Santiago de Compostela five times a week.
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VISITOR EXPERIENCE
life as citizens of Europe. Giving them choices. Knowledge of German not required
WHY NOT VISIT IN THE EVENING? • GREAT PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES • Co-educational day school for children aged 4-18 • German lessons from Kindergarten to Secondary School
• MAGICAL SUNSETS • ROMANTIC PICNICS
• Preparation for the Irish Certificate Exams
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Co. Clare, Ireland. T: +353 65 7086141
St. Kilian’s German School / Eurocampus, Roebuck Road, Clonskeagh, Dublin 14 +353 1 288 3323
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Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark
FOR COMPLETE REJUVENATION
Vichy Spa Hotel, Montpellier The ultimate retreat for those in need of a little TLC, this historic Vichy resort was once the favoured destination for French aristocrats in need of pampering. The spa and hotel offer state of the art Skinceuticals and Vichy Laboratoire treatments, thorough wellbeing programmes and a hammam experience that would bring even the weariest of bodies back to life. The team here pride themselves on reviving guests through a combination of personalised, circulationboosting, hydrating and rebalancing therapies, and they deliver rejuvenation in spades. The cherry on top is the cuisine. Their Michelin-starred restaurant, Bistrot, delivers sublime Mediterranean food, deeply nourishing for the body and the senses. A break here will help you hit the refresh button on your body and replenish energy levels you forgot you had. STAY The Privilege Deluxe room comes with its own private terrace overlooking the resort’s 19th-century thermal building and grounds is oh-la-la indeed. FEEL THE BURN In the most luxurious way possible. The spa’s wellness programmes consist of four treatments per day for five days. Choose a youth-boosting or anti-stress plan and let the experts indulge you, from top to toe. PACKAGE Wellness Spa Packages start from €585 with rates in a Privilege Deluxe room starting from €125 per night. vichyspahotel.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Montpellier twice weekly.
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FOR 5-STAR SECLUSION
The Ranch at Live Oak, LA As the motherland of health and fitness trends, Los Angeles boasts more wellness retreats than you can shake a dumb-bell at. The Ranch stands out for its tough-love approach, drawing a regular celebrity clientele from La La Land (most recently Rebel Wilson Instagrammed from the retreat). This really is a movie star-worthy haven, situated on Hopalong Cassidy’s historic working ranch in Southern California. Hiking trails, canyon views and an organic farm provide the breathtaking American backdrop to this week-long training programme. STAY At the end of a long day working out, you’ll be especially thankful for the plush, queen-sized bed in one of The Ranch’s rustic-chic private suites. FEEL THE BURN The team’s theory makes sense; instead of putting guests through their paces all week for a quick fix, The Ranch focuses on daily low impact, moderate activities designed to enhance metabolism and detoxify gradually. Unlike other week-long intensives, their mantra is a sane and achievable one: a short stay, long on benefits. You can expect daily guided hikes, yoga, core training plus daily massages and nutritional classes, too. This retreat is all about long-term reform.
PACKAGE The Ranch’s rate includes six nights and seven days (Sunday to Saturday) of private accommodation and all meals, from $6,800 per week (€5,980 approx). theranchmalibu.com
Aer Lingus flies direct from Dublin to Los Angeles four times weekly.
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FOR SUN SALUTATIONS
YogaTraveller, Co Clare Forget everything you think you know about yoga breaks; we’ve found the RollsRoyce of zen indulgences, nestled in the Cliffs of Moher. Hosted by husband and wife duo Michelle and Michael Moroney, YogaTraveller has become the go-to retreat for yogis in the know. A meditation in their purpose-built studio overlooking the Atlantic Ocean to the sound of crashing waves is a bucketlist worthy experience. Come for the silence, deep practice and exceptional instructors, stay for the like-minded company, blustery cliffside walks and a week focused on toning and gaining a deeper understanding of yoga’s benefits. This is the break for those in need of strengthening themselves from the inside out. STAY In the retreat’s 14 lodge bedrooms, you'll find deep baths, Egyptian cotton linens, and sea or countryside views come as standard in each of the cosy self-catering suites. Keep in mind though, this isn’t a hotel retreat, so your room really is your own to take care of for the duration of your stay.
FEEL THE BURN Sign up for the Summer Yoga Immersion week, August 21-28. Two-hour yoga classes, indulgent spa and energy-enhancing treatments, surfing and long beach walks (if you fancy raising your heart rate), and a boozeand technology-free zone. PACKAGE The Summer Yoga Immersion week starts from €980, all inclusive. See yogatraveller.com for details and to make bookings. 104 |
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See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes
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Hop-on Hop-off Tour with Dublin’s Best Tour Guides
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DESTINATION | SAN SEBASTIÁN
48 hours in
SAN SEBASTIÁN
This year’s European Capital of Culture has a feast of star attractions, as Matt Flemming discovers. Eat at ...
LEGENDARY There is perhaps no name more synonymous with Basque cooking than Arzak. Founder Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena Arzak Espina have earned worldwide 106 |
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acclaim with an ever-evolving menu of inventive dishes rooted in Basque tradition that are both visual and culinary masterpieces. The red egg – slowly poached in a bag, combined with chilli pepper and pork – is among the latest dishes diners have been raving about. (Avenida Alcalde Elósegui 273, +34 943 278 465; arzak.info) OTHERWORLDLY Mugaritz chef Andoni Luis Aduriz spends four months of each year refining the sensory experience guests receive via a 24-course tasting menu. Edible cutlery, edible stones and even edible centrepieces are among the surprises. (Aldura Aldea 20, Errenteria, +34 943 522 455; mugaritz.com)
JOSE LUIS LOPEZ DE ZUBIRIA
CHEEKY While some of San Sebastián’s Michelin-starred restaurants can feel like hallowed institutions of fine food, Kokotxa, a small, humble eatery found on a quiet, cobblestone alley in the Old Town, delivers seemingly simple yet expertly crafted dishes in an atmosphere without pretence. The name refers to a Basque dish made with fish cheeks, its own version given subtle Asian flourishes. (Campanario 11, +34 943 421 904; restaurantekokotxa.com)
Exciting eating – even the cutlery may be edible at the inventive Mugaritz.
Drink at ... SWEET The villages surrounding San Sebastián are legendary for their hard apple cider houses. Ipintza Sagardotegia, which can be found at the top of a hill in Astigarraga, has a cosy atmosphere with wooden benches and tables. After ordering a set menu, guests can help themselves to cider from the gigantic wooden barrels in the next room. (Santio Zaharra Kalea 12, Astigarraga, +34 688 811 724; ipintza.com) SUCCULENT La Cuchara de San Telmo is one of the city’s greatest purveyors of creative and decadent pintxos (the Basque version of tapas). Wash down two- or three-bite dishes of succulent foie gras, veal cheeks and suckling pig with glasses of beer or txakoli, the local sparkling white wine. (Calle del Treinta y Uno de Agosto 28, +34 943 435 446; lacucharadesantelmo.com)
JAZZY The 51st annual Heineken Jazzaldia takes place July 20-25 at venues throughout the city. A series of free shows taking place at Zurriola Beach will see artists such as Gloria Gaynor, Zapp, Nick Waterhouse and Charles Bradley and his Extraordinaires perform. Diana Krall also plays on July 25 at Trinity Square. heinekenjazzaldia.com
ALEX ITURRALDE
SNACKING If you have opted to spend your evening popping from one pintxos bar to the next through the Old Town, a stop at A Fuego Negro is a must. The restaurant serves inventive modern pintxos creations, to go along with its extensive wine list, in a contemporary, relaxed atmosphere. Wander in and help yourself to whatever has been laid out on the countertops. (Calle 31 de Agosto 31, +34 650 135 373; afuegonegro.com)
Don't miss ...
Sleep at … ROMANTIC The area surrounding La Concha Beach has an historic Belle Époque character that invites guests to imagine the city as a resort destination for Spain’s aristocrats in the early 20th century. The elegant Husa Hotel Europa, just steps from the beach, embodies this feeling with an overall antique ambience, including decorative wrought-iron railings on the balconies. (San Martin Kalea 52, +34 943 470 880; husa.es) MODERN In a city known for its classical charms, the Hotel Zenit San Sebastián, opened in 2014, offers 78 impeccably designed modern hotel rooms. Located in a quiet neighbourhood, a short drive from the
Old Town, Zenit has a rooftop solarium with a hot tub and a chic restaurant serving modern Basque cuisine. (Antonio Maria Labaien 1, +34 943 325 325; sansebastian.zenithoteles.com) ELEGANT Named after the Spanish queen who made her summer home here in the late 19th century, the Hotel Maria Cristina is the preferred accommodation for stars attending the city’s annual film festival in September – how about vamping it up in the Bette Davis Suite? Overlooking the Urumea River, its grand exterior makes the hotel one of the city’s most impressive buildings. (Paseo Republica Argentina 4, +34 943 437 600; hotel-mariacristina.com)
Anticlockwise from top right, Hotel Zenit’s rooftop oasis; feeding time at Kokotxa; a deluxe garden view room at the Hotel Maria Cristina; artful mouthfuls at A Fuego Negro.
SHAKESPEAREAN A production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream will be held at Cristina Enea Park with performances every night, except Monday, from June 21 to July 24. The audience will essentially play the role of guests at the wedding of Hermia and Demetrius and will be served a banquet meal during the first few scenes of the show. dss2016.eu CULTURAL San Sebastián is one of two European Capitals of Culture for 2016 (the other being Wroclaw in Poland) and a full slate of events is currently under way. The Suddenly Europe project will see singers of improvised song from around the world perform in public spaces throughout the city from July 11-16, with a final performance scheduled for July 16 at 7pm at the Kursaal auditorium. dss2016.eu
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BILBAO daily.
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From horses to horticulture, the Irish National Stud & Gardens offers a unique experience that may be enjoyed as part of a guided tour or at your own leisure. • Guided tours of the stud & gardens • World Famous Japanese Gardens • St. Fiachra’s Garden • Horse Museum • Newborn Foals • Restaurant
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ON BUSINESS
Floating our Boat
A renovated shipping centre aims to become the world’s largest digital business incubator in the heart of playful Paris, reports Jake Cigainero.
Making travel work for you
Business
Do as Parisians do and amble Canal de l’Ourcq in the Parc de la Villette. Below, a rendering of La Halle de Freyssinet, which aims to host 1,000 startup companies.
tartups in the French capital don’t have a central home like California’s Silicon Valley or the Wharf in London. Paris has long relegated big business to the soulless faux city of skyscrapers at La Défense. But all the French tech hopefuls who dream of becoming a “unicorn” – a company valued at more than €1 billion – will soon have the chance to anchor in a repurposed shipping centre called La Halle de Freyssinet on the Seine, in the 13th arrondissement. The new business hub claims it will be the world’s largest digital incubator as host to 1,000 startups. Last year, digital technology represented 5.5
S
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PARIS four times daily, and from Cork once daily.
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per cent of France’s GDP and this is estimated to increase by €100 billion by 2020. In recent years the French government has made it easier for the growing generation of entrepreneurs to make their whizzbang ideas a reality. France has given rise to some of the hottest digital companies, such as ride-share service BlaBlaCar, which raised €175 million in 2015 and is valued at more than €1 billion. Digital marketing company Criteo, which populates your social networks and online searches with ads to make you click and buy, has also passed that €1 billion valuation mark and has gone global with offices around the world. But don’t think French entrepreneurs have forgotten their cultural roots. D.Vine is a company that has created a machine to decant wine properly and regulate its temperature. Nor need you worry that Paris is becoming all work and no play. The city is still one of the world’s favourite playgrounds, where classics get reinvented and revamped.
SMART MONEY Paris looks beautiful from a Seine River cruise, but join the real Parisians on the Canal de l’Ourcq. Every weekend until August 21, water shuttles cost just €1 on Saturdays and €2 on Sunday. Life is lived on the canal in the summer with pétanque, picnics, parties and music shows. Canal boats are the quickest route from the street to the free open-air cinema in the Parc de la Villette.
Eat at … MODERN Chef William Pradeleix’s retro-sleek bistro Will – dishes pictured right – is a gem off the wellbeaten path. Don’t mistake his French cuisine for fusion, but Asian influences do find their way onto plates as hints of sesame in duck with coriander pesto, and cheese cake mousse with mango and crystalised yuzu citrus. (75 Rue Crozatier, +33 153 170 244) CASUAL Deli/rotisserie Jeanne B, left, offers tasty simplicity to fuel the climb up the hill to Sacré-Coeur. The Montmartre eatery specialises in roasted pattes noires chicken and lamb from the Pyrenees, and dresses up croque monsieur with lobster for an elegant twist on the French snack classic. (61 Rue Lepic, +33 142 511 753; jeanne-b-comestibles.com) FRESH Beer isn’t the first libation to come to mind in Paris, but Le Triangle, left, offers a break from wine with eight international craft brews and a changing seasonal menu of plates to share. Once a month the brasserie goes Québécois and serves the Canadian chips classic, poutine. (13 Rue Jacques Louvel Tessier, +33 171 395 802; triangleparis.com)
FIRE WORKS
July in France can only mean Bastille Day! Of course there’s the Champs Élysées parade but the main attraction is the Bals des Pompiers, the raucous parties hosted by French firemen at fire stations around the city on July 13-14.
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Business
CHARLES MURPHY
Drink at ...
COSY Down a narrow street off the lively Rue Montorgueil, Redd, above, pours interesting wines from France and Italy in an intimate stone-wall space with cowhide stools. Owners Rob from New Zealand and Marketa (an ex-sommelier at Arpège) from Czech Republic harmonise serious wine with a relaxed ambience. (28 Rue Saint-Sauveur, +33 638 873 859; reddparis.com)
HIP Cool off with a gin concoction at Tiger – right and below. Palm tree-covered walls transport imbibers to tropical locales away from the bustle of Saint-Germain. Try the award-winning French Flair made with gin, absinthe and orange bitters, or mix and match to create your own smash. (13 Rue Princesse, +33 184 058 174; tiger-paris.com) EXCLUSIVE The pretty people of Paris populate the longtime see-andbe-seen nightclub Le Montana. Models and wannabes strut around quaffing champagne at the ultra-selective hotspot where there’s often a cortège of Saturday night hopefuls waiting to enter. Better to know a regular who knows the doorman. (28 Rue Saint-Benoît, +33 153 637 920; hotel-lemontana.com)
A vision of the future from the past – Le Cinq Codet Hotel, housed in the former France Telecom building.
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Stay at ... LUXE After four years of renovation at the city’s toniest address, the mythic Ritz Paris was the most anticipated hotel opening of 2016. Coco Chanel once called the opulent hotel home and now guests can pamper at her iconic label’s first spa. Michelin-starred chef Nicolas Sale helms fine-dining restaurant L’Espadon. Rooms from €1,100. (15 Place Vendôme, +33 143 163 030; ritzparis.com) SLEEK The ambience is a vision of the future from the past at Le Cinq Codet. Designer Jean-Philippe Nuel’s modern geometry in the new interiors of the former France Telecom building makes you feel like you have boarded the Mad Men dream boat, and it feels like home. Rooms from €299. (5 Rue Louis Codet, +33 153 851 560; lecinqcodet.com) CHARMING An old haunt of 20thcentury artists and writers such as Colette, Montmartre’s Terrass Hotel embodies sophistication in the old hillside village. A recent renovation polished rooms with contemporary patina and added a rooftop bar and restaurant with a sweeping view to accompany breakfast or apéro. Rooms from €160. (12-14 Rue Joseph de Maistre, +33 146 067 285; terrass-hotel.com)
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Business
MATTHEW NICHOL PHOTOGRAPHY
Cheesy Monsieur, at Paris by the Glass, below, and bags of style at Good Manners, right.
part of its roadways WALK FREE Paris has reclaimed k to pedestrians at along the Seine and given it bac ll, exercise on the Les Berges de Seine. Take a stro of the food trucks. equipment, or check out some
Downtime at ... STYLE Bag options for men have come a long way from the polar extremes of all-business brief cases and boring backpacks. Good Manners stocks some of the most stylish designs, from Danish label Rains waterproof bags for keeping gear dry, to modern architectural rucksacks by Parisian brand Côte et Ciel. (13 Avenue Daumesnil, +33 952 417 507; good-manners.com)
CINEMA What’s more picture perfect than seeing a black-and-white film in Paris? Step back in time at Le Desperado cinema. The arthouse theatre screens a mix of classic French and American films. A sultry Elizabeth Taylor in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof? Oui! (23 Rue des Ecoles, +33 143 257 207; desperado.cine.allocine.fr) 114 |
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GRAHAM CORCORAN
LEARN Discover France one sip at a time with Paris by the Glass. Wine expert Preston Mohr demystifies the complexities of French wine through customised private tastings and walking tours, with plenty of eating and drinking along the way. Ditch the city for the day and escape to Champagne or the Loire Valley to meet the holy, hardworking winemakers. parisbytheglass.com
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13-17 Newmarket, Dublin 8 5 mins from St Partrick’s Cathedral
Business Jennifer's fatherin-law to be, Liam Ahearn Snr, out in his field at Ballindoney Farm.
A DAY IN THE LIFE Edinburgh-born Jennifer Nickerson is a co-founder of Tipperary Boutique Distillery.
7am I generally wake up to the “dawn chorus” provided by our dog, Sass the Alsatian, who wakes us up like clockwork every morning looking to be let out. After grabbing a quick coffee and checking emails that have come in from the US and Australia overnight, I then take her for a proper stroll around the farm. I can never resist a first look each day at the barley that we are growing for whiskey. 8am I’m at my desk at 8am each day as mornings are my office time. As an accountant and the only current full-time employee of the Tipperary Boutique Distillery, my tasks vary – meaning that I could be doing anything from updating our accounting software to answering website queries. I also like to keep up to date with whiskey news by scanning my daily Google alerts and trade newsletters. Whenever I can, I head to the gym for a bootcamp or spinning class. 12noon There’s always something happening on the farm and, if it’s relevant to our barley crop, I’ll go out and get some pictures or videos. My fiancé Liam and his brother and father provide all the strong arm work while I handle the photography brief. Shots like these are really useful for our website and social media accounts. People on our social media feed from all over the world seem to really enjoy finding out more about how connected we are to the land – where our spirit begins its journey. 2pm Afternoons are for client visits, tasting events or discussions on sales. I spend a lot of time travelling to our wholesalers and 116 |
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retailers and talking about our whiskey, the farm and our future plans. If I’m not on the road, I spend the afternoon catching up with our overseas importers, making sure that sales are going well and discussing promotions and marketing efforts. We like to ensure that sales that have worked well in one market are communicated to other markets, and that all our promotions are in-line with our overall brand message. 6.30pm We have a catch-up call with the main shareholders every couple of days. This is a short call to discuss regular items and it supports the longer Sunday weekly call, which is used to discuss strategic direction and budgets. I worked with KPMG for seven years and apply a lot of the process structure that I found there to our company. While it’s not the romantic side of starting your own business, it makes sure that everyone is clear on where we are and where we are going. 7.30pm I normally take the dog for a run around the local roads in the evening (I’m training for a half-marathon so I do my short runs during the week). I grab a quick bite to eat when I return and spend the rest of the evening updating our Facebook, Twitter and Instagram with pictures and stories from the day and replying to any messages or comments that I didn’t manage to get back to. I try to spend some time relaxing with a whiskey or playing video games with Liam (we have two Xboxes and a Wii in the house – we’re very competitive) before I go to bed and start it all again in the morning!
I LOVE VISITING … EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND My family is from Edinburgh and I met my Irish fiancé Liam there. It’s a stunningly old, beautiful city and I visit every year for Whisky Stramash in May and the Fringe festival in August. The view of Arthur’s Seat from Edinburgh Castle, top, and Holyrood Park is my favourite cityscape in the world. DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY I visited Düsseldorf on business for the first time late last year and loved the city. We’ve recently partnered with a German importer and I can’t wait to visit again. I’d highly recommend a cruise on the Rhine for anyone visiting Düsseldorf: it’s a fantastic way to see the Old Town and the skyline. NEW YORK I always have a ball in New York. It’s a city of iconic tourist attractions, e.g. the Brooklyn Bridge, above, Staten Island Ferry, the Empire State Building, and the people are incredibly friendly, from the policemen to the regulars in the Irish bars. I’ve an enormous soft spot for NYC.
Business
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BOOK Whether you’re seeking a promotion or want to start a business, bestselling author and leading businesswoman Sháá Wasmund’s Stop Talking, Start Doing Action Book (paperback original and e-book, £9.99) aims to give readers the motivational kick they need to get moving. Key themes include eliminating procrastination and how to deal with criticism.
HOTEL Get the creative juices flowing by checking into the world’s first Radisson RED (35 Idaliestraat, +32 2 626 8111; radissonred.com) in Brussels, a boldly designed, techsavvy hotel in the European Quarter. Aimed squarely at the modern traveller, there’s no front desk, guests are greeted with tablets and the RED App acts as a virtual concierge.
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ACCESSORY For a quality suitcase that will survive many dashes to the departure gate, check out Tripp Chic, the glossy new fourwheel collection from luggage specialists Tripp (from €62 sale price, trippluggage.ie). Each case comes with a built-in TSA lock for safe and secure travel, internal packing straps and zip pockets for easy organisation.
BUSINESS
TRAVEL HOT LIST
Lisa Hughes picks the latest devices and places to smooth the way for work.
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EVENT More than 20,000 entrepreneurs converge on Chicago for Sage Summit (July 25-28, McCormick Place, sage.com/ sage-summit) the world’s largest gathering of entrepreneurs and SMEs. As well as panel and interactive sessions, this year’s high-profile, keynote speakers include Richard Branson and Gwyneth Paltrow.
APP Perfect for anyone who regularly visits the same city and wants to get under its skin, Indie Guides (indie-guides. com) offer an alternative take on destinations including Paris, San Francisco and Los Angeles, with insider tips on small music venues, quirky boutiques, restaurants favoured by locals and other places you might never otherwise find.
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GADGET Engineered to handle all those everyday knocks and bumps, the hardy HTC 10 (sim-free price €679.99 from three.ie) combines a world-class, 12 million UltraPixels camera with bold new metal, unibody design. Best of all, the 3.0 rapid charger means your battery can be charged by up to 50 per cent in 30 minutes.
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GADGET Keep your valuables safe wherever you are with the Master Lock 5900D SafeSpace Portable Safe (available in white or grey, RRP £29.99 from leading retailers), a water-resistant, shockabsorbent safe that even has headphone and cable ports for continued use.
LUNCH The latest wing of Tom’s Kitchen (The Queen’s Walk, +44 20 7940 6316; tomskitchen.co.uk) has opened at London landmark HMS Belfast. As well as delicious grub and panoramic views of Tower Bridge and The Shard, the rooftop bar has a tasty menu of nautical cocktails.
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Business Hotel
CITY TWIST
Jo Linehan savours the Fitzwilliam Dublin’s fresh take on city centre hospitality. WHAT & WHERE Peering over the tree-tops of St Stephen’s Green, the five-star Fitzwilliam Hotel is at the heart of Dublin, a stone’s throw from the south-bound Luas line and within walking distance of the city’s major landmarks and attractions. Single room rates start from €289; doubles from €389. (St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, +353 1478 7000; fitzwilliamhoteldublin.com) DOWN TO BUSINESS The hotel provides an elegant gateway to the city. Inside, drop chandeliers, zigzag rugs and Vogue-ish portraits line the walls, while the bustle of Dublin city’s creative and shopping quarters lie at its doorstep. Thornton’s restaurant is the hotel’s proudest culinary boast, while Citron offers a more casual (but equally delicious) forkful. In addition to a fully equipped fitness suite, the Spirit Beauty Salon offers therapies from massage, facials and body wraps to beauty treatments. Fluffy robes and slippers, H2O toiletries, super-fast (and free) Wi-Fi and plush, duck-down duvets come as standard in every room, but a Superior Guestroom, which comes with its own private terrace, left, is well worth the splurge. An excellent concierge service and the hotel’s bespoke podcast walking tours are the added extras that make this hotel a cut above.
LUNCH BUZZ Local food emporium Fallon & Byrne serves an array of delicious Mediterranean and Middle Eastern salads, hearty, homemade sambos and freshly made pastries and sweet treats, right, in its grand food court on Exchequer Street. Their in-house bakery’s sourdoughs and croissants and locally sourced fare can be enjoyed at their deli or on the go. (11-17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2, 01 472 1010; fallonandbyrne.com) 120 |
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DOWNTIME After some retail therapy on Grafton Street – check out high-end perfumers Parfumarija (parfumarija. com) and bespoke Irish jewellery at MoMuse in the Powerscourt Centre (momuse.ie) – stroll to the nearby RHA (rhagallery.ie). There awaits a contemporary edit of some of Ireland’s most interesting artists – and a reviving espresso in its café, Coppa. Come nightfall, sup a prohibition-era tipple and scoff small plates at The Blind Pig speakeasy bar (theblindpig.ie), or make a night of it at Luna steakhouse and cocktail bar (supermisssue.com/luna), which cleaned up at the recent Irish Restaurant Awards.
TALKING HEADS
One of the city’s most buzzedabout networking events comes via IMAGE Magazine. Their Mentoring Workshop takes place at The Merrion Hotel, July 13, with a whole host of business-savvies ready and willing to swap smarts. See image.ie for tickets and more info.
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Business
6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT Margaret’s SMART CITY
members ensures that our promise to consumers of “a rewarding local food experience for everyone who simply loves good food” is always guaranteed.
MARGARET JEFFARES is the founder and CEO of Good Food Ireland, Ireland’s first food travel company. Ten years on it is a trusted guarantor of quality, directing visitors to approved farm-to-table experiences through its website goodfoodireland.ie.
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Believe you can and you’re halfway there When we set up Good Food Ireland ten years ago, it was so ahead of its time. We had to work hard to influence change, not just in an industry but within a country, where our two biggest indigenous industries would be linked by an overarching brand that would become the consumer endorsement for good local food.
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Keep your focus and the end goal in mind As we grew the business there were so many ways it could have
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been redirected. However we kept the vision in mind, even when some others didn’t fully understand it, and stayed on the path to reach our end goal.
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Build your people around you As a pioneering network of like-minded food tourism businesses, it was very important to build a team of people that would share the vision and together grow the brand’s consumer awareness for the benefit of its member businesses. Having people who really care across our family of approved
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It takes longer than you might think We had hoped to launch the tours side of the business two years ago but, despite every effort, it took us longer than we thought to establish the brand in the tourism sector. Now, however it is its unique standard and independent quality guarantee for the very best local food experiences in Ireland that is making it happen and, even though we only launched our tours division three months ago, we are already ahead of our targets.
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Celebrate your wins I always believe that you must look back in order to go forward. Cherish the good moments and celebrate them with your team. Take your down time and switch off; for me it is my horses. Climbing mountains, so to speak, in business can be tiring, so stop, look back, keep the basics right, and move forward, freshly and positively.
DESTINATION New York is possibly my favourite city. It is so eclectic in its food trends and always inspires me. People are positive and want to do business. Day and night it is alive and so much can be made of your time spent there.
SLEEP AT Fitzpatrick’s Manhattan has to be top of my list. Its home-from-home service provides the comfort I need when on business and its location is ideal. fitzpatrickhotels.com
PAUL JOHNSON
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Collaboration can get faster results When mobilising a business, collaboration and partnerships with other companies can expedite the end goal. When we started Good Food Ireland, we partnered with Kerrygold and Aer Lingus, and both helped promote the brand and our 600 businesses within it, in two different consumer sectors. Our collaborative services were mutually beneficial.
EAT AT Oceana near the Rockefeller Center, with executive chef Ben Pollinger, is always a wonderful, lively place in which to dine when on business. Its menus offer delicious dishes from small bites to full sophistication, with seafood taking centre stage. oceanarestaurant.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York up to three times daily, and from Shannon daily.
Where Champions Meet‌ Recently renovated & refurbished, The K Club features 140 bedrooms and brand new conferencing & events facilities. For more information call +353 (1) 601 7200 or email sales@kclub.ie www.kclub.ie
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OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
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Flying with Aer Lingus
Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.
126 Welcome aboard 127 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 144 Our Route Networks 148 Connecting to Wi-Fi
Inight Entertainment 130 Movies to North America 131 Movies from North America 132 Our Classic Movie Selection 135 Television On Demand 138 Radio On Demand 139 Music On Demand AERLINGUS.COM |
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Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.
Why not try speaking a few words of the native language while you are visiting Ireland! What cities do Aer Lingus fly to Fáilte Welcome and connect to? Dia dhuit Hello See page 144 for full route maps Slán go fóill Goodbye ...is ainm dom My name is... Conas atá tú? How are you? Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithscéal Excuse me Cara Friend
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In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.
Passengers with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.
Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.
Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222
Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.
You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.
To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.
Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.
Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.
Are you ready for take-off and landing?
Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.
Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in ’flight mode’?
Is your seatback fully upright? Is your armrest down? Is your tabletop stowed? Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?
To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting.
ON Airplane Mode
If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.
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Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and reduce jet lag.
KEEP MOVING On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.
Your comfort and safety
EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.
A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:
DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.
EYE CARE
Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.
Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another passenger (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.
If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.
Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.
We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a passenger on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. Similarly, behaviour or language towards other passengers or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.
Airbus 330-
200
For your Safety
Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad
Airbus 319
Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr
Please do
not remov
e from Aircra
Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do
ft
TIME ZONES ON
Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.
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Airplane Mode
not remov
e from Aircra
ft
Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.
ON Airplane Mode
ON Airplane
ON Airplane
Mode
Mode
In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.
Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky! Action
Gods of Egypt
Action Deadpool 106 mins
EN FR DE IT ES
Documentary
Dad‘s Army
PG
Youth
R
127 mins Rival gods compete in an epic battle to save Egypt. Stars Gerard Butler, Nikolaj Coster-Waldau, Brenton Thwaites
100 mins A platoon deal with a new journalist and a German spy. Stars Catherine Zeta-Jones, Toby Jones, Bill Nighy
124 mins A retired orchestra conductor receives a great invitation. Stars Michael Caine, Harvey Keitel, Rachel Weisz
EN CCEN
EN
EN FR DE IT ES
Drama
R
Wade Wilson is a former Special Forces operative who now works as a mercenary. His world comes crashing down when evil scientist Ajax tortures, disfigures and transforms him into Deadpool. Deadpool uses his new skills to hunt down the man who nearly destroyed his life. Stars Ryan Reynolds, Morena Baccarin and Ed Skrein.
Comedy
PG13
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
Peggy Guggenheim: Art Addict
Drama
R
96 mins A portrait of a patron of the arts extraordinaire. Stars Peggy Guggenheim, Marina Abramovic EN
Sci-Fi
45 Years
R
93 mins A letter from the past shadows a wedding anniversary. Stars Charlotte Rampling, Tom Courtenay, Geraldine James
Eddie The Eagle
PG13
105 mins Eddie‘s journey to become Britain’s first Olympic ski-jumper. Stars Hugh Jackman, Christopher Walken
EN FR DE ES
EN
Kids G
General
PG
Parental Guidance
PG13 Parental Guidance
Not suitable for children under 13.
R
Room
R
117 mins A mother and son‘s last hope of escaping their kidnapper. Stars Brie Larson, William H Macy, Joan Allen EN FR DE ES CCEN
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Pride and Prejudice and Zombies
PG13
108 mins The quest of love through an outbreak of a deadly virus. Stars Lily James, Lena Headey EN FR IT ES CCEN
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The 5th Wave
PG13
El Americano: The Movie
G
Kung Fu Panda 3
113 mins The tale of a brave woman who faces extraterrestrials. Stars Chloë Grace Moretz, Liev Schreiber, Maika Monroe
98 mins Cuco sets off on an adventure to defend his family. Stars Edward James Olmos, Rico Rodriguez
85 mins Po must face two hugely epic, but different threats. Stars Jack Black, Bryan Cranston, Lucy Liu
EN FR DE IT ES
EN ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN PG
FR DE IT ES
Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español
CCEN Closed Caption English
Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
Comedy Zoolander 2 102 mins
PG13
Former models Derek Zoolander and Hansel find themselves thrust back into the spotlight after living in seclusion for years. Invited to a major fashion event in Rome, the estranged friends are surprised to see how much the business has changed. Derek and Hansel are lured back into modeling again, in Rome, where they find themselves the target of a sinister conspiracy. Stars Ben Stiller, Penelope Cruz and Owen Wilson EN FR DE IT ES
Action
Comedy
Jane Got a Gun
R
London has Fallen
R
Triple 9
PG13
97 mins A woman tries to save her husband from a murderous gang. Stars Natalie Portman, Ewan McGregor, Joel Edgerton
99 mins There is a plot to kill the world's most powerful leaders. Stars Gerard Butler, Morgan Freeman, Aaron Eckhart
115 mins A gang of criminals and a bunch of corrupt cops plan a murder and a heist. Stars Casey Affleck, Chiwetel Ejiofor, Anthony Mackie
EN FR DE
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE ES
Drama
A Perfect Day
R
Hail Caesar!
PG13
How to be Single
R
106 mins A group of aid workers work to resolve a crisis. Stars Benicio Del Toro, Tim Robbins, Olga Kurylenko
106 mins The life of a studio fixer in Hollywood’s Golden Age. Stars Josh Brolin, George Clooney, Scarlett Johansson
109 mins New York is full of lonely hearts seeking the right match. Stars Rebel Wilson, Alison Brie, Dakota Johnson
EN DE IT
EN FR ES
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
Kids G
General
PG
Parental Guidance
PG13 Parental Guidance
Not suitable for children under 13.
R
The Choice
PG13
110 mins A relationship that is tested by life‘s defining events. Stars Benjamin Walker, Teresa Palmer, Maggie Grace EN FR DE ES
The Dressmaker 118 mins A glamorous woman returns to her small town in Australia. Stars Kate Winslet, Liam Hemsworth EN FR DE
R
The Runner
R
89 mins A congressman has personal and professional troubles. Stars Nicolas Cage, Sarah Paulson, Connie Nielsen EN DE
Alvin and the Chipmunks: The Road Chip
PG
92 mins Chipmunks fear the future as Dave contemplates marriage. Stars Jason Lee EN FR
Zootopia
EN PG
108 mins The animals must work together to uncover a conspiracy. Stars Jason Bateman, Ginnifer Goodwin, Idris Elba
FR DE IT ES
Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español
CCEN Closed Caption English
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
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We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America. Timeless favourites such as Michael Collins and Raging Bull are available, as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.
Our Classic Movie Selection
Birdman
119 mins Stars Michael Keaton, Zach Galifianakis, Edward Norton
R
EN FR DE IT ES
Juno
Bride Wars
EN DE IT
PG13
Kiss Kiss, Bang Bang
96 mins Stars Ellen Page, Michael Cera, Jennifer Garner, Jason Bateman
103 mins Stars Robert Downey Jr, Val Kilmer
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
The Book Thief
PG
89 mins Stars Kate Hudson, Anne Hathaway, Candice Bergen
PG13
131 mins Stars Geoffrey Rush, Emily Watson EN FR DE IT ES
The Departed
Goodfellas
146 mins Stars Robert De Niro, Ray Liotta, Joe Pesci, Lorraine Bracco
R
EN FR DE IT ES
R
Love & Other Drugs
R
EN FR DE IT ES
The Heat
R
EN FR DE IT ES
112 mins Stars Jake Gyllenhaal, Anne Hathaway
R
Gran Torino
116 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Bee Vang, Christopher Carley, Ahney Her
151 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Matt Damon
117 mins Stars Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy, Demián Bichir
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
R
Michael Collins
Horrible Bosses
R
98 mins Stars Jason Bateman, Kevin Spacey EN FR DE IT ES
R
Raging Bull
R
133 mins Stars Liam Neeson, Julia Roberts
129 mins Stars Robert De Niro, Cathy Moriarty, Joe Pesci, Frank Vincent
EN
EN FR DE
The Hobbit: Desolation of Smaug
PG13
161 mins Stars Martin Freeman
The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies
PG13
PG13
EN FR DE IT ES
Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs
PG
Jimmy’s Hall
PG13
101 mins Stars Will Smith, Alice Braga, Charlie Tahan
94 mins Stars Simon Pegg, Queen Latifah
109 mins Stars Barry Ward, Simone Kirby, Andrew Scott
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN
Robots
PG
91 mins Stars Paula Abdul, Halle Berry, Lucille Bliss, Terry Bradshaw EN FR DE IT ES
144 mins Stars Ian McKellen
EN FR DE IT ES
I Am Legend
The Rocker
102 mins Stars Christina Applegate, Rainn Wilson
Sunshine
107 mins Stars Cillian Murphy, Michelle Yeoh, Troy Garity, Rose Byrne
R
EN FR DE IT ES
PG13
The Wolf of Wall Street
EN FR DE IT ES
Mr. Yeats PG13 and the Beastly Coins
The Girl with the Mechanical Maiden
113mins Stars Robert DeNiro, Jodie Foster, Sybil Shepard
R
EN FR DE
R
180 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Margot Robbie
EN FR DE IT ES
Taxi Driver
Wedding Crashers
R
119 mins Stars Owen Wilson, Vince Vaughn EN FR DE IT ES
Irish Shorts and Features
A Terrible Hullabaloo
PG13
An Bronntanas
R
9 mins Stars Sean Fitzgerald
110 mins Stars Michelle Beamish, Charlotte Bradley
EN
EN
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Cloudlands 10 mins
EN
PG13
Granite and Chalk
PG13
I Am Jesus
PG13
12 mins Stars Aoife Duffin, Liam Carney
7 mins Stars Steve Wilson, Paul Buckland, Joseph Moylan
EN
EN
12 mins Stars Moe Dunford, Donal Courtney EN
PG13
You‘re Ugly Too
R
15 mins Stars Dominic West
81 mins Stars Aidan Gillen, Lauren Kinsella, Simon McQuaid
EN
EN
Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes. Business
Studio 1.0
This month Bloomberg‘s Inside, investigates Chevron and its global business. Also from Bloomberg is Studio 1.0, where host Emily Chang sits down with Dropbox‘s CEO and co-founder Drew Houston and Cities And Climate Change which gives an exclusive talk with OECD Secretary-General Angel Gurria and UN Special Envoy for Cities and Climate Change. Meanwhile, EuroNews bring us Business Planet, Real Economy and Urban Visions – all of which cast a cold eye over economics, technology and energy developments.
Comedy
Documentary
Sugar Crash
Crossroads is a documentary series that revels in folksy transports and the spirit that lives within them. How Do They Do it? looks into how screws, marmalade and printed dresses are made, and National Geographic‘s Access 360 World heritage, which features Mount Fuji and its transition from a spiritual journey to an adventure sport attraction. For more on Ireland and Irish culture tune into Sugar Crash, that looks into Ireland‘s sugar habits and Men In Black, that follows the highs and lows of life as a man behind the whistle.
Drama
S P O T L I G H T: S P O R T
Aer Lingus will be keeping you up to date with all things sport this Summer with weekly highlight shows of the GAA championships and Euro 2016 directly to your seat!
Lifestyle
Cook, Eat, Burn
Step into the world of food with American Food Battle and Made In Italy with Silvia Colloca. Find out the secrets behind the Inuit tribe‘s customary dish. For tips on improving your health watch Cook, Eat, Burn where Donal Skehan shares healthy recipes and embarks on adventure sports. For fans of culture and art Culturefox TV offers a guide to Irish culture and events, whilst City Chic documents certain cities and their culture, art and fashion – this week focuses on London.
Sport
As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of True Detective, Treme and The Walking Dead on offer, as well as episodes from the highly acclaimed series, The Wire and new episodes of, Gotham, The Sopranos and Bones. Maradonna
Silicon Valley
Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a culturedefining series. Now, with four consecutive Emmy Awards for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family returns with Season 6. Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate a new episode of Wilfred. Also on board are episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Silicon Valley and Last Man Standing.
Kids
Sports fans shouldn‘t miss Countdown to Rio, which takes a look at everything that you need to know about the Olympic Games. Also on board are Maradonna (a mustwatch for football fans!), The Contenders and HSBC: Golfing World 2016, for everything golf-related.
KC Undercover
Kids will surely enjoy KC Undercover, as KC tries to convince her parents that her brother, Ernie, is ready to become a spy. Kids may also enjoy charming animated series Flip Flap or an imaginative episode of Rocka-Bye Island, Randy Cunningham: 9th Grade Ninja or Learn To Draw.
News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.
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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets
True Detective SEASON 2 The second season of True Detective began airing in June 2015 on the HBO network. Season two comprises eight episodes and there are a lot of big names in this season’s cast, with a principal cast of Colin Farrell, Rachel McAdams, Vince Vaughn, Taylor Kitsch and Kelly Reilly. Colin Farrell is Ray Velcoro, a compromised detective in the all-industrial City of Vinci, LA County. Vince Vaughn plays Frank Semyon, a criminal and
entrepreneur in danger of losing his life’s work, while his wife and closest ally (Kelly Reilly), struggles with his choices and her own. Rachel McAdams is Ani Bezzerides, a Ventura County Sheriff’s detective often at odds with the system she serves, while Taylor Kitsch plays Paul Woodrugh, a war veteran and motorcycle cop. Season two takes place in California and follows the interweaving stories of the
officers from three cooperating police departments. A bizarre murder brings together three law-enforcement officers and a career criminal, each of whom must navigate a web of conspiracy and betrayal. Ultimately season 2 of True Detective offers immense drama as we see a joining of three law enforcement groups, multiple criminal collusions, and billions of dollars.
True Detective is a gritty American anthology crime drama television series created by Nic Pizzolatto
Treme SEASON 4 Treme was created by David Simon, creator of The Wire and Generation Kill and Eric Overmyer, writer-producer of Homicide and Law & Order.
Pierce, Khandi Alexander, Rob Brown, Steve Zahn, Kim Dickens, Melissa Leo, Lucia Micarelli, Michiel Huisman, David Morse, India Ennenga and Jon Seda.
the ability of whether the police department can keep up with the rise in crime is questionable. What keeps the city afloat through all of this is its culture.
Treme is set in post-Katrina New Orleans and documents the struggles of a diverse group of residents as they rebuild their lives and their city.
The story consists of a diverse group of residents struggling to rebuild New Orleans in the months following Hurricane Katrina.
Treme takes its title from the name of one of the city‘s oldest neighbourhoods, a historically important source of African-American music and culture. The large cast of Treme includes Wendell
Life in New Orleans is getting better, but it‘s not happening fast enough to keep residents from wondering whether things would be easier or better elsewhere. Crime is on the rise in New Orleans and
Mardi Gras Indian chief Albert Lambreaux (Clarke Peters) is sewing in preparation for Mardi Gras. The social aid and pleasure clubs are getting ready to hit the streets in their colourful, fast step finery. And those loveable rogues, Davis McAlary (Steve Zahn) and Antoine Batiste (Wendell Pierce) have cooked up a new set of schemes on and off the bandstand.
Treme depicts the struggles of New Orleans residents rebuilding their lives post-Katrina
The Walking Dead SEASON 6 The Walking Dead is an American horror–drama television series. The sixth season premiered on in October 2015 comprising of 16 episodes. Season six was developed for television by Frank Darabont. It is based on the eponymous series of comic books by Robert Kirkman, Tony Moore, and Charlie Adlard. In the first part of the season we see Rick and his group leading the Alexandria community through a series of crises.
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These include the threat of a large herd of walkers and an attack by dangerous scavengers known as the Wolves.
In this new reality, there are new dangers, new opportunities and new complexities to face.
The second half of season 6 involves Rick and his companions discovering more survivor communities. They make allies of the agrarian Hilltop colony and adversaries of the Saviours, which are led by the ruthless Negan.
To claim their place in this newfound landscape, the group must become the threat themselves. This means becoming as terrifying as any of the adversaries they've encountered.
With no hope of safety in Alexandria, Rick and his band of survivors soon discover a larger world beyond what they understood it to be.
Season six is notable for introducing some eminent comic characters such as Heath, Denise Cloyd, Scott, Dwight, Paul ‘Jesus‘ Rovia, Gregory, and Negan.
OUR TOP TV CHOICE The Walking Dead is a TV series which follows a group trying to survive a zombie apocalypse
Radio On Demand On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.
CL ASSIC AL
EASY LISTENING
S P O T L I G H T: KO DA L I N E Kodaline have released their highly anticipated second album Coming up for Air. The Irish group have experimented more with their sound on this album and have created hits such as Honest and The One. Aer Lingus are proud supporters of Kodaline, flying the band across our European and North American network as they perform to sell-out audiences. Exclusively to Aer Lingus guests, you can hear the guys give a trackby-track introduction to their latest album. Get to know the Dublin quartet and the stories behind their creative process and success!
INDIE
IRISH
Blue of the Night
Fitzpatrick Hotels
TXFM‘s Indie Hits
Ceol na nGael
Irish Pulse Broadcast
The Blue of the Night is a musical journey spanning centuries, genres and soundscapes. Presented by Carl Corcoran.
An hour long compilation of songs that will suit any music taste. Brought to you by The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.
TXFM brings us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as Coldplay, Grimes and Blur.
A traditional music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.
Irish Pulse brings you some of the most popular hits in Ireland right now. Listen out for Bressie, Kodaline and many more!
Pop Charts
Louise McSharry All your future favourites in one place, from hip hop to rock and roll. Presented by Louise McSharry.
KIDS
POETRY
Happy Days
Irish Poetry Corner
Join Emma O’Driscoll for a fun packed show with stories, songs and fun games.
Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish poets.
POP
ROCK
The Eoghan McDermott Show
Radio Nova: Marty Miller
Above average radio… pop culture, cranial acrobatics and he’ll even throw in the odd song.
60 minutes of great guitar music on board your Aer Lingus flight today. Presented by Marty Miller.
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POP
Cooper & Luke – The Big Breakfast 98fm Join Copper and Luke on board your Aer Lingus flight for music and fun.
Pop Charts features the most up-to-the-minute pop hits! Listen to songs by Omi and Kodaline.
TA L K R A D I O
Documentary on One
Best of Moncrieff
In 1975, Fran O’Toole was killed in the Miami Showband Massacre. In 1968, Mick Meaney dreamed of breaking the world record for being buried alive.
Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues.
Our boarding music contains a number of contemporary Irish artists including Kodaline, Van Morrison, Paddy Casey, Boyzone, Hozier, The Script, HomeTown, Westlife, Sinéad O‘Connor, Bressie and Christy Moore.
Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.
A L L T I M E FAVO U R I T E S
Annie Lennox
Annie Lennox Diva Iggy Pop Arista Heritage Series: Iggy Pop Leonard Cohen I‘m Your Man Mott the Hoople All the Young Dudes (Legacy Edition) E L EC T R O
ZHU & AlunaGeorge
Faithless Sunday 8 PM Fatboy Slim Palookaville Galleon So I begin Saint Etienne Smash The System Singles 1990–99 ZHU & AlunaGeorge Genesis Series OPER A
Paul Potts
Leonard Bernstein West Side Story Paul Potts One Chance Puccini Il Tabarro Verdi Opera’s Greatest Duets
A LT E R N AT I V E
Pink Floyd
Boots Aquaria Foo Fighters Saint Cecilia Natalie Press Side by Side Patti Smith Horses Pink Floyd Pulse (Live) The Strokes Is This It IRISH
Hermitage Green
Damien Dempsey The Rocky Road Hermitage Green Save Your Soul Kodaline Coming Up for Air Kodaline In a Perfect World Van Morrison Inarticulate Speech of the Heart POP
Kloe
Fleur East Love, Sax and Flashbacks Kloe Teenage Craze Rachel Platten Wildfire Zayn Mind of Mine (Deluxe Edition)
CL ASSIC AL
Khatia Buniatishvili
Khatia Buniatishvili Kaleidoscope Denis Matsuev Encores Mariss Jansons & Wiener Philharmoniker New Year‘s Concert 2016 JA Z Z
Jaco Pastorius
Jaco Pastorius Jaco (Original Soundtrack) Miles Davis The Bootleg Series, Vol 3: Miles At the Fillmore 1970 Thelonious Monk The Complete Columbia Live Albums Collection Stacey Kent Tenderly RNB
Yo Gotti
Chris Brown Royalty John Legend Love in the Future Kid Ink Summer in the Winter Stevie Wonder A Time 2 Love Yo Gotti The Art of Hustle (Deluxe Version)
COUNTRY
Loretta Lynn
Blake Shelton Reloaded: 20 #1 Hits Dolly Parton Just because I‘m a Woman Loretta Lynn Full Circle Old Dominion Meat and Candy M E TA L
Yashin
Bring Me the Horizon That’s the Spirit Bullet for My Valentine Fever Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Megadeth Th1rt3en Motörhead The Wörld is Yours Yashin The Renegades ROCK
Jeff Buckley
Cage the Elephant Tell Me I‘m Pretty David Bowie Blackstar Jeff Buckley You and I Jacob Whitesides Faces on Film Kings of Leon Only By The Night AERLINGUS.COM |
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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT
DUBLIN
Where are you flying to?
Are your bags checked through to your final destination? YES Follow signs for Flight Connections
NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.
USA
ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS
GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate
GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate
Follow signs for US Preclearance
Have all your required forms filled out.
Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status
Gate Information Screens
Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal
Passport Control and Security Screening
Hand Baggage search
Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.
Follow signs for Flight Connections
Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.
Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.
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DEPARTURE GATE
DUBLIN
Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections Which Terminal are you flying from?
For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.
Security screening
You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.
Departure Lounge
Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.
Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.
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Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information. Edmonton Saskatoon
Calgary
Regina Winnipeg
Vancouver Victoria Seattle
Duluth
Montreal
Ottawa
Portland OR
Traverse
Minneapolis Boise
Milwaukee Madison
Sioux Falls
Salt Lake City
Omaha Denver
Reno
Oakland
San Francisco San Jose San Luis Obispo
Des Moines
St Louis
Louisville Nashville
Tulsa
Oklahoma City
Los Angeles
Santa Barbara Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego
Fort Wayne Chicago
Springfield
Las Vegas
Memphis Little Rock
Phoenix
Buffalo
Detroit Cleveland
Indianapolis Wichita
Toronto
Grand Rapids
Cedar Rapids
Sacramento
St. John’s
Quebec Fargo
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Akron Canton
Rochester
Pittsburgh
Albany
Hartford
Newark
Columbus Harrisburg
Dayton
Halifax
Burlington Syracuse
Cincinnati
Washington (Dulles)
Providence
Portland ME
Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard
New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore
Washington (National)
Lexington
Greensboro
Knoxville
Charlotte
Greenville Atlanta
Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham
Columbia Charleston
Savannah Austin
Houston
San Antonio
New Orleans
Jacksonville
Orlando Tampa
Aer Lingus European and North American Network
Fort Myers
West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami
Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)
Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)
Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland. 144 |
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San Juan Aguadilla
We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to nine US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.
Ponce
Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.
Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow
Donegal
Newcastle
Belfast
Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands
Isle of Man
Knock
Liverpool
Dublin
Shannon Kerry
Edinburgh
Birmingham
Cork
Amsterdam
Berlin
Warsaw
London (Heathrow) Bristol
Cardiff
London (Gatwick)
Dusseldorf
Southampton
Exeter
Newquay
Hamburg
Brussels Prague
Frankfurt Jersey
Paris
Stuttgart Vienna
Munich
Rennes
Budapest
Zurich
Nantes Geneva
(Malpensa)
Bordeaux
Toulouse
Santiago de Compostela
Bilbao
Venice
Milan
Lyon
Milan
(Linate)
Nice
Montpellier Perpignan
Verona Bologna Pula Pisa
Marseille
Bourgas
Dubrovnik Rome
Barcelona
Naples
Madrid
Alicante Murcia
Athens Catania
Malaga Faro
Tenerife Gran Canaria
Lanzarote Fuerteventura
Corfu
Palma
Lisbon
Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!
Izmir
Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.
w
Dublin
London Heathrow
Bahrain
Dubai
Abu Dhabi
Muscat
Kuala Lumpur Singapore
Johannesburg
Cape Town
Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)
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Perth Sydney
Melbourne
Staying connected on board* Mobile Network on board
Wi-Fi on board On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.
1 Switch on
With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.
Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi
2 Connect
Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.
1 Switch on
Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.
3 Purchase Internet Access
2 Aeromobile
Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a full flight pass.
Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.
4 Payment
Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.
3 Welcome SMS
Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.
5 Username and Password
Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.
4 Connected You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet.
6 Connected
** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.
International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 148 |
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You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! W ER NE W ES LO R I C P
One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 Full flight pass €14.95 | $18.95 *A330 aircraft only.
Brand New Visitor Attraction GPO, O’Connell St Lower, Dublin 1
call: +353 (0) 1 872 1916 e: info@gpowitnesshistory.ie
www.gpowitnesshistory.ie Image courtesy of the National Library of Ireland
uae | ireland | singapore | usa | uk
an irish welcome, wherever you go. experience the best of ireland at home & abroad
contact@mcgettigans.com | www.mcgettigans.com
Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder 93 NEW STREET, KILLARNEY, CO. KERRY WWW.IRISHWHISKEYEXPERIENCE.NET
&
Independent Bottler of the year
2015
WWW.CELTICWHISKEYBAR.COM The new home of Irish Whiskey! 6 Irish whiskey masterclasses daily from 10.30am – 6pm You’re sure to leave the Irish Whiskey Experience with a smile on your face and a new appreciation for uisce beatha (the water of life)! Sláinte!
Ireland’s Whiskey Experts! 27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2. • Ph: +353 (0)1 675 9744 INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING @Celticwhiskey or @Winesonthegreen or www.celticwhiskeyshop.com
Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery
Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area
C
onveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.
When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...
●
Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin’
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Irish Music and Traditional Irish Dancing 7 nights-a-week
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Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area
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Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers
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Pour Your Own Pint tables
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Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers
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For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts
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HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.
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Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten for quality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast, pictured below.
Really Good Full Irish Breakfast only
€6.95
*This special offer is available Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am. Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.
Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week
M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796
Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin
*
Do hen y & Nes bi t t 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N
Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…
One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre. Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink. Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.
Voted overall
best pub in Ireland in the hospitality Ireland awards
W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie
MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN
DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER
LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie
NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie
www.marcopierrewhite.ie
290x220mm_PW_Cara_2015:Layout 1
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A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012
J
ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.
S
ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for €5 each way.
Hooley Nights
For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person. • • • •
AWARD WINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES
Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin
l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: info@jfp.ie
www.jfp.ie
www.facebook.com/Johnniefoxspub
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A GUIDED TOUR THROUGH 10,000 YEARS OF IRISH HISTORY Celtic Gods will take you on a journey from 8,000 BC to present day in Ireland’s only cinematic theatre. Experience their cultural triumphs, feel their defiance as they fight against annihilation and watch them rise up from their cultural ashes. Opposite Hop on/off Bus Stop Smithfield, Dublin 7
E: info@storyoftheirish.ie T: +353 (0) 1 873 3537
Open from 10:30 - 7:00pm with Shows Every Hour. Duration 60 Minutes www.storyoftheirish.ie
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AERLINGUS.COM |
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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | NEW YORK CITY
THE BROADWAY BOUNCE
The Northern Irish actress/singer Bronagh Gallagher fulfilled a New York dream earlier this year. t the beginning of April I had completed production on my third album. I had poured three years of work and life into it, during which time I kept saying to myself, “Oh, I’d love a week in New York when I get everything finished. If I ever get everything finished ...” I woke on the morning of my birthday at the end of April and my Irish acting agent Derick Mulvey rang and said, “You’re off to New York City next week, for a week!” I had been cast in a new film, Return to Montauk – written by Colm Tóibín and Volker Schlöndorff, and starring Stellan Skarsgård and Nina Hoss – and it would be directed by Volker, first shooting in New York, then Berlin. I couldn’t believe the timing. If anywhere is going to plug you back in and re-energise you, it’s NYC. It had always been my favourite city since my first time there when I was 18 years old, for The Commitments premiere, and I had returned many times, though not in about eight years. Before I had time to think, I was on an early morning flight to JFK and the next thing driving into magical Manhattan. I had been booked to stay at the Algonquin Hotel on West 44th Street and I received such a warm welcome by the staff, including the restaurant manager, Irishman Patrick Sweeney. Patrick told me all about the fantastic history of the hotel, that it had been home to 1920s New York City’s
Bronagh, above, conquers Manhattan. Below left and right, her street-side snapshots.
A
TOUR DE FORCE
Bronagh Gallagher’s third album, Gather your Greatness (Salty Dog Records), is out now. For upcoming live dates, visit bronaghgallagher.com.
literary, artistic and theatrical elite know as The Vicious Circle, which included Dorothy Parker. I also heard many hilarious stories of the legendary actor John Barrymore. Visiting New York is like being in a film itself. I walked round the corner to Bryant Park and sat in the sunshine and enjoyed a delicious coffee given as a gift by a lovely IrishAmerican girl, Kate, at the kiosk. I went on to meet Volker, the director, the cast and crew before a good night’s rest. I wasn’t filming for a few days yet so I had plenty of time to explore. I managed to check out the brilliant Bikram Yoga Center on the Lower East Side, on Allen Street, and was blown away by the incredible teaching from its owner Tricia Donegan. I had always wanted to go to the MET to see an opera, so I arranged to meet my brilliant playwright
“So off I went and had my mind completely blown by the production” 152 |
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friend Susan Yankowitz and her husband Herbert Leibowitz, longtime publisher of Parnassus: Poetry in Review; both native New Yorkers and devout opera lovers. They informed me they had some very hot tickets for Patrice Chéreau’s production of Elektra by Richard Strauss, starring Swedish soprano Nina Stemme. So off I went and had my mind completely blown by this staggering production. When filming was complete I had a few more days to walk about and bought some beautiful velvet and trimmings to have a suit made for my upcoming album tour. And on my final night I got to fulfill another top-of-the-lister and went, again with the lovely Susan and Herbert, to Carnegie Hall to see Beethoven’s Missa solemnis performed by the 160-voice Cecilia Chorus of New York, which was just extraordinary. I returned to Dublin exhilarated and also nourished by the cultural stimulation I’d experienced – the bright lights of Broadway forever etched in my heart.
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