Cara June 2017

June 2017

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

JAMIE DORNAN

ON FIFTY SHADES OF FAME

WELLVERSED WELL VERSED

IRISH STORYTELLERS AT THE PEAK OF THEIR POWERS

BUNDORAN • VIENNA • LISBON • DUBROVNIK • NEW YORK

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CONTENTS JUNE 2017

CHECK IN

6 WELCOME Aer Lingus news 9 ARRIVALS We greet newbies at Dublin’s T2

11 CHECK IN Ace events, plus an interview with Emma Donoghue

90 Dalmatian Discoveries

24 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The world according to Canadian comedian Tom Green 26 WEEKENDER Melanie Mullan finds la dolce vita in Valpolicella 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary lovelies 30 5 GOOD REASONS Where to go la-la in Los Angeles

46

32 WILD ONE Eoin Higgins finds the Waterford Greenway wheely good 34 FIFA FEVER Ken Early gets his Confederations Cup on

Well Versed

36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO SAN FRANCISCO Roe McDermott takes us off the beaten path

FEATURES

40 HOORAY FOR HOLYWOOD Jamie Dornan tells Nancy Rockett about balancing celebrity with domesticity 46 TELLING STORIES Sinéad Gleeson meets some of Ireland’s finest wordsmiths 54 COLD WATER PARADISE Surf’s up for Conor Creighton in Bundoran 62 TAKE THIS WALTZ Lucy White’s Viennese whirlwind

62 Oh, Vienna!

80 THE NEW BOHEMIAN Roisin Agnew goes cool hunting in Lisbon 90 DELECTABLE DUBROVNIK Eoin Higgins casts his lens on the Croatian coastline

80 Lisbon – utopia?

REGULARS

BUSINESS

100 5 BEST BRITISH BREAKS Melanie Mullan goes glamping

114 A DAY IN THE LIFE Body&Soul’s festival queen Avril Stanley

104 48 HOURS IN PULA Isabel Putinja’s Istrian treasures

116 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes’ jet-setting round-up

123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment

118 SLEEPS & EATS Melanie Morris checks into Charlotte Street, London

73 YOU SAY, WE SAY Daragh Reddin goes island hopping

152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Atlantic rower Gavan Hennigan breaks the waves (and records)

107 BUSINESS & LIFE Joseph Seery’s first-class guide to New York

120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT From Avoca to Restoration Yard, Amanda Pratt has it sussed

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CARA Magazine June 2017

WELCOME ABOARD

As we enter into summer, Aer Lingus is delighted to offer even more choices for intrepid travellers in 2017. elcome aboard, and thank you for choosing to fly with us today.

Summer 2017 is shaping up to be the busiest on record for Aer Lingus.

We will be operating our most comprehensive summer service to date, with 100,000 additional seats to the sun in Europe and new routes to Newquay in Cornwall, including a twice weekly service from Cork, which began in early May. Split in Croatia now has a twice weekly service from Dublin, and our Miami, Florida route will begin on September 1, with four direct flights per week direct from Dublin.

Our transatlantic expansion over recent years has created lots of interesting job opportunities at Aer Lingus. To service our busy summer schedule, we’ve welcomed on board almost 200 new cabin crew members. Now in full-flight, they will service our many seasonal routes – popular European city-break and sun destinations such as Santiago de Compostela, Montpellier, Marseille, Palma Majorca, Murcia, Sicily, Dubrovnik and more.

For those wishing to travel further afield, this summer will also see Aer Lingus operate its largest ever transatlantic schedule, flying to 11 North American destinations from Dublin, including

W

Miami, below, and existing routes to Boston, Chicago (which will increase to twice daily), New York, Orlando (increasing to four times per week), San Francisco, Washington and Toronto – and from Shannon, Boston and New York – as well as Los Angeles, Newark and Hartford, which commenced last year. Speaking of LA, we have increased our service to daily flights for summer 2017.

Earlier this year we launched AerClub, our new loyalty programme, which brings exciting reward benefits to our loyal guests.

I am happy to say that we have reached a milestone number of people signing up, with 500,000 members now enjoying its benefits. AerClub is the first Irish airline loyalty programme to give its members the opportunity to earn Avios reward points every time they fly with us and our partner airlines – and when they shop with a range of retail, hotel and leisure partners, in Ireland and abroad. AerClub allows customers to collect rewards quicker and use them to travel more. It’s our way of saying thanks for flying with us. So, sit back, relax – and happy holidays.

Chief operating officer Mike Rutter Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

PUNCTUALITY Guest feedback tells us that punctuality is highly valued, so we are delighted to report that we are the most punctual airline at Dublin airport!

HOME ADVANTAGE We will be bringing “Home Advantage” to the Ireland vs USA Eagles rugby match in New Jersey this June.

BASKETBALL CLASSIC Aer Lingus will sponsor the Basketball Hall of Fame Belfast Classic in the Northern Ireland capital in December this year.

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EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Roisin Agnew, Conor Creighton, Mark Duggan, Sean Breithaupt and Yvette Monahan, Ken Early, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Roe McDermott, Isabel Putinja, Daragh Reddin, Nancy Rockett, Steve Ryan, Joseph Seery

CONTRIBUTORS Sinéad Gleeson’s essays have appeared in Granta, Winter Papers and Gorse, and she is currently working on a collection of non-fiction, and a novel. Sinéad edited the award-winning short story collections The Long Gaze Back: Short Stories by Irish Women Writers and The Glass Shore and she presents The Book Show on RTÉ Radio 1. For her first story for Cara on page 46, Sinéad chatted to six key players in new Irish writing.

ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Robert Power Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Sam Power, Raymond Reihill, Gina Traynor

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

Julian Mullan is a German-Irish photographer based in Vienna.

During his studies at the city’s Academy of Fine Arts, he hosted legendary parties with his DJ collective, The Loud Minority.

His work maintains a strong, recognisable aesthetic, with clients including Vogue, Uomo, Die Zeit, Rondo and Falter. This is his debut assignment for Cara, shooting the scenesters and stalwarts of Vienna – turn to page 62.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent MD Christina da Silva Commercial Director Justine Daly Creative Director Stuart Purcell Editorial Director Maureen Rice Finance Director Jane Moffett Strategy & Business Director Ann Hartland

Melanie Morris is editor-in-chief at IMAGE Publications, where she edited the flagship women’s magazine from 2005 to 2012.

These days, her role involves being constantly on the go with passport close at hand. London is always one of Melanie’s favourite destinations – she worked there as a fashion PR back in the 1990s. For this edition of Cara, the high-flier channelled her inner Bloomsbury at London’s Charlotte Street hotel: see page 118.

+44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

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June 2017

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

JAMIE DORNAN

ON THE COVER

ON FIFTY SHADES OF FAME

WELLVERSED WELL VERSED

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

IRISH STORYTELLERS AT THE PEAK OF THEIR POWERS

BUNDORAN • VIENNA • LISBON • DUBROVNIK • NEW YORK

Jamie Dornan photographed by Vincent Sandoval/ Getty Images

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

WHO? Natasha, Richard, Thomas and Edward Oubridge FLYING IN FROM ...

London RICHARD SAYS ...

“We’re here for the weekend mainly to go to a football match, but I’m hoping to get a couple of rounds of golf in too."

THOMAS SAYS ... “I don't really mind football, but I don’t like Chelsea.”

WHO? Ranjit Bhogal FLYING IN FROM ... London RANJIT SAYS ... “I’m here for just one day on a business trip. It’s my first time to Dublin but, sadly, this time I won't get to see any of it.”

WHO? Sergio Gomez and Christy Booze FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam SERGIO SAYS ... “We’re only here for the day but we are going to drive up to Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge in Antrim”.

ARRIVALS

Wedding planners and returning emigrants arrived through Dublin's T2 – Cara was there to meet them.

WHO? Mary O’Grady and Stephen Glynn FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco MARY SAYS ... “We’re back to visit both our parents. We’ve been living in San Francisco for the last 27 years, but you never get over the homesickness.”

WORDS BY MELANIE MULLAN/ PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? Ilse Crowley FLYING IN FROM ... Düsseldorf CROWLEY SAYS ...

“I’m here for the weekend as my daughter is getting married here tomorrow.

I’m very excited!”

WHO? Gareth Campbell and Marie-Claire Murray FLYING IN FROM ... London MARIE-CLAIRE SAYS ...

“We’re getting married here in July so are over to do some wedding planning in Meath before the big day.”

WHO? David Walker-Smith FLYING IN FROM ... London DAVID SAYS ...

“I’m looking forward to going to my favourite coffee shop, the Dublin Barista School, and I love Cocu for their great selection of vegan food.”

AERLINGUS.COM |

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BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ■

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CHECK IN EAT · READ · GO

IRIS © GIVAUDAN

SCENTS APPEAL Whiffs ahoy at London’s Somerset House, where ten pioneers of modern perfumery are changing perceptions of scent by inviting punters to sniff concoctions that evoke specific places and milestones, and also sweat, smoke and other nasty niffs beginning with the letter “s”. Modern perfumery has been transformed over the past two decades, not least by conventional notions of gender and taste being subverted by pioneering “noses”, such as those featured at this multi-sensory exhibition from June 21 to September 17. Fragrance at its most fun and immersive. somersethouse.org.uk

AERLINGUS.COM |

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STAY

CLAIRE DORN

4 LITERARY HIDEAWAYS FOR CEREBRAL SLEEPS

Conrad Hotel, Dublin The recently renovated Conrad offers literary luxury in the form of “Stay Inspired” initiatives – suggested itineraries for discovering the city in one-, three- and five-hour expeditions. Ulysses enthusiasts can follow in the footsteps of Leopold Bloom, finishing with a reading at Sweny’s, the pharmacy made famous by Joyce. B&B from €320. conradhotels3.hilton.com

The Plaza, New York Hosting glam balls for literary giants such as Truman Capote, and being a lavish location for an afterparty in F Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby, The Plaza has a glittering history that has lost none of its lustre. Revisit the glamour with an evening of jazz in the Rose Club, where many of the greats – such as Miles Davis – have performed. Rooms from $616. theplazany.com

L’Hôtel, Paris The final home of Ireland’s Oscar Wilde, L’Hôtel on Rue des BeauxArts offers a walking tour through Paris visiting the spots Wilde loved to frequent, followed by lunch or afternoon tea at the hotel’s Michelin star restaurant. A short stroll away is Les Deux Magots café, which was a favourite haunt for many writers, including Ernest Hemingway.

Rooms from €325. l-hotel.com

The Townhouse, Stratford-uponAvon Located in the birthplace of William Shakespeare, this 400-yearold townhouse is handsomely turned out. The boutique hotel is surrounded by culture and entertainment to be explored on long walks over ye-olde-pub tipples or watching performances by The Royal Shakespeare Company. B&B from £105. stratfordtownhouse.co.uk

Hotel Booking Since its first edition, the Design Hotels Book has set a benchmark for originality through visual storytelling. The latest spotlights 283 hotels across 207 destinations worldwide, as well as the creative hoteliers who have turned unique hospitality concepts into reality. The coffee-table tome also presents the Influencers List, highlighting ten innovative minds from design and architecture who are pushing the boundaries of aesthetic creativity in hospitality today. €59.90 at designhotels.cc.

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ART

The Bright Side Visitors to Chicago’s Museum of Contemporary Art will be beaming as widely as the flowers in Takashi Murakami’s artworks for which he’s best known. His collaborations are legendary, from love-ins with Louis Vuitton and Pharrell Williams, but the spotlight is his own at this retrospective: The Octopus Eats Its Own Legs, from June 6. There, early works rub shoulders with new pieces that straddle the divides between high and low art. mcachicago.org

PICTURE THIS

HEATHER LOOKING THROUGH THE KEYHOLE, 1994 © HELMUT NEWTON ESTATE

June 2 sees the exhibition Jean Pigozzi, Pool Party open at the Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin. Featuring snapshot images taken around the photographer’s swimming pool in Cap d’Antibes, where Bono, The Edge and Jack Nicholson, among other entertainment heavyweights, came to unwind and, dare we say it, frolic out of the public glare. The exhibition runs in tandem with shows highlighting fashion supremo Mario Testino and the maestro himself, Helmut Newton, left. Until November 19. helmut-newtonfoundation.org

The Mane Event FAMILY

Generation Game Graze your way around this year’s Cork Summer Show on June 17-18, which also features one of the county’s largest outdoor food festivals, with more than 40 stalls, plus cooking demonstrations and competitions. Guaranteed to be a great day out for all ages, there are also gardening installations, dog shows, vintage tractors, live music and, for little ones, a petting zoo and face-painters. corksummershow.com

PHOTOGRAPHY

NATURE’S WAY The award-winning Irish landscape photographer and environmentalist Stewart Duffy will showcase his work across selected Irish airports over the summer months. His latest imagery captures the landscapes of Ireland to produce unique and striking views of natural land and seascapes. Get impressed at Dublin’s Terminal One this June and July, and at Shannon Airport from June to August. stewartduffyphotography.com

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To echo its proximity to the Curragh Racecourse, Kildare Village has launched a pop-up food series serving out of restored horse boxes.

Curated by Domini Kemp, this month sees guest stalls from Luxe Gelato, as well as Kemp’s Alchemy Juice Co offering fruit and veg presses and a selection of healthy salads. Look out, too, for Mud Bakery and coffee brothers PS Roasters over the summer months. kildarevillage.com

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DIASPORA

SETTING THE STAGE

What have been the biggest challenges so far in adapting Room for the stage? It’s easier in that the story is so inherently theatrical: two people transform a bare room through imagination and play. But it’s harder for one main reason: in a film, a child actor’s performance can be gently teased out of him, a line at a time if need be, whereas on stage much more is being demanded from him.

So we’re using both an adult and a child to represent Jack.

Is this a full-scale musical? A play with songs, I’d call it – in that it doesn’t follow all those (often schmaltzy) conventions of West End musicals. Perhaps because the songs – by director Cora Bissett and Kathryn Joseph – are the element that’s new to me, but probably because they’re spookily powerful, they’re my favourite part of the whole show.

How involved are you in putting the production together? I’ve been in on all the discussions over several years of development. As it happens I’m typing this as I sit in the rehearsal room now, watching the movement director fine-tune the blocking for a song … But I’m only staying for the first week and then I’ll get out of their hair!

It’s more than a year since Room shone at the Oscars – which are fast losing credibility with audiences, while the small screen is having a golden age. What do you make of Hollywood? It’s easy to mock all the gush, glamour and partying … but the US film

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industry is full of brilliant people, passionate about making films that matter. There’s no sharp distinction between small and big screen nowadays; most of us move between them. I’m working on several TV projects as well as film ones, for instance.

When writing novels, do you have specific actors in mind or are they a composite of different sources? I let myself imagine some dream-cast actors while I’m writing the screenplay, to help me picture the scene, but not when I’m writing the novel: for fiction I’m much more focused on what’s going on inside their heads.

Writing novels is a solitary business, while stage and screen adaptations are collaborative and over a longer period of time.

Do you have a penchant for one process over another?

No, I’m really enjoying the contrast between them. If I only wrote novels I might get isolated, and if I only wrote films I’d definitely feel maddened by all the ways in which the writer is powerless, and all the waiting.

Many writers on a deadline eat their entire body weight in biscuits. What is your procrastination poison? Dark chocolate sea salt caramels – for moments not just of procrastination but of frustration, celebration or relaxation.

Your Maeve Brennan play The Talk of the Town was so well received – it seems outrageous

ANDREW BAINBDRIDGE

Dublin-born, Ontario-based writer Emma Donoghue is best known for her best-selling novel Room (2010), whose film adaptation, directed

by Lenny Abrahamson, won four Oscar nominations, including a Best Actress gong for Brie Larsson. Donoghue has written a screenplay of her book Frog Music (2014) for Monumental Pictures and is working with a film company on adapting The Wonder (2016). This June 24 to July 22, she presents her stage adaptation of Room at Dublin’s Abbey Theatre (abbeytheatre.ie), a co-production with Theatre Royal Stratford East in association with the National Theatre of Scotland. By Lucy White

that she’s not yet received a screen biopic. Would you adapt her story? Brennan fans will be delighted to hear that my old schoolfriend – and award-winning screenwriter and director – Neasa Hardiman has a Maeve Brennan feature film in the works, Breakfast at the New Yorker.

When you’re writing historical fiction, is there ever such a thing as too much research, of not knowing when to stop? No, in my experience the more research I do, the deeper my understanding and the richer the details I can draw on. But what’s crucial is leaving out everything that doesn’t need to be mentioned.

What can you tell us about your new children’s book, The Lotterys Plus One, released this month? This novel is the first in an illustrated series about a boisterous, home-educated Toronto family, whose happy ménage (four parents, seven kids) is disrupted when their grandfather moves in. I’ve aimed to combine contemporary, gritty

material with some of the idyllic atmosphere of 19th- and 20thcentury classics about big families.

Most surprising culture shock, moving from Ireland to Canada?

Cultural pressures to join a gym and get to places on time.

PM Justin Trudeau appears to be the last remaining moderate world leader. What is the general feeling on the ground right now?

Yeah, many of us in Canada are in the paradoxical position of feeling smug about our international image as a bastion of freedom … and petrified about the future as the USA’s neighbour.

What insights have you had on Ireland since moving to Canada?

An obvious point, perhaps: it’s a very small country. And Irish people do still often cling to the outdated idea of the Irish as a white, Catholic nation.

Best thing about being an Irish expat? The appreciative response most Canadians have to the Irish as one of their earliest immigrant populations: it feels as if I’m walking in a well-trodden path.

FESTIVAL

Carlow High

JULIAN ROSEFELDT & VG BILD KUNST-BONN

Dutch Gold At the grand old age of 70, Holland Festival is in rude health and chock-full of big names at this year’s multidisciplinary event running June 3-25, when the provocative “Democracy” theme is sure to push the envelope. Belgium’s Ivo van Hove – director of Enda Walsh and David Bowie’s musical Lazarus, and Saoirse Ronan in The Crucible – presents British actor Jude Law in Obsession, a reimagining of Luchino Visconti’s 1943 eponymous film. Also appearing – though in a short film series entitled Manifesto – is Cate Blanchett, pictured, in a variety of guises and scenarios.

There’s also a big emphasis on contemporary composers, pulling focus on soundscapes from Indonesia. hollandfestival.nl

SCIENCE

Lighting Up

CONOR McCABE

Inspirefest returns to the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre in Dublin’s Silicon Docks, July 6-7. Now in its third year the shindig brings together 50 of the brightest minds in international science, tech, entrepreneurship, the arts and innovation – last year’s speaker includes Dropbox’s Judith Williams, left. Headline speakers this year include Ellen Pao, venture partner and former CEO of Reddit; Tarah Wheeler, website security czar at Symantec; Ana Matronic, of Scissor Sisters fame, and Rhianna Pratchett, lead writer of Tomb Raider. Themes will range from a pragmatic look at artificial intelligence and robotics to ethical sourcing. Delegates also have access to an evening fringe event where music, banter and culture cross over with technology. inspirefest.com

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DE AN CHALKLEY

ARTS

One of the first big cultural events of the summer, and now in its 38th year, the Carlow Arts Festival will come alive from June 7 to 13 with highly anticipated musical performances from Rusangano Family, The Strypes, below, and ten-piece urban-street funk band Stomptown Brass.

Writer and performer Emmet Kirwan (see our interview on page 46) of internet film sensation Heartbreak will kick off the evening’s proceedings at O’Hara’s Pavilion on June 9. Other musical highlights this year include a treat for opera fans as well as the opera-curious, as Philip Glass’ epic Einstein on the Beach is brought to the big screen at the GB Shaw Theatre (June 10-12). The festival is further stuffed with theatre, art, outdoor movies, dance, comedy, circus, spectacle, surprises and lots of general, all-round craic for all the clan. carlowartsfestival.com

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FOOD

FOOD FLIGHT

BREAKFAST The Wolseley, London What I love about large cities like London is that so many people go out for breakfast everyday and not just weekend brunch. The Wolseley is buzzing every morning with business people at meetings, locals and tourists. The aroma of freshly ground coffee, baking croissants and pastries get your juices flowing. Their smoked haddock omelette, Arnold Bennett, is chock-full of flavour. As the late AA Gill put it: “Breakfast is everything. The beginning, the first thing. It is the mouthful that is the commitment to a new day, a continuing life”. thewolseley.com

LUNCH

Balthazar, Soho, New York New York is my favourite city in the world. The excitement of walking around people watching, shopping and anything goes. So a great stop off is Keith McNally’s Balthazar. It has been open since 1997 and, in a city that changes pace so quickly, is still packing in the crowds – a testament to its brilliance. A dozen oysters and a Bloody Mary is a great light lunch. For a more luxurious, longer midday meal, their classic confit duck with a side of purée potatoes and a bottle of Pouilly-Fumé makes for a decadent afternoon. balthazarny.com

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PHOTOGRAPH BY EOIN HIGGINS

Well-known Dublin maître d’ Declan Maxwell fronts the operation at one of the city’s most style-driven restaurants, Luna (supermisssue.com), having previously spent 16 years at the esteemed Chapter One. Here, he recalls some of his most memorable meals as a day of jet-setting fantasy dining.

DINNER

Roscioli, Rome It’s a delicatessen, restaurant and wine bar.

The food here is very simple but the quality of the ingredients on offer is the best in Rome. Meanwhile, the wine list comprises more than 2,800 labels. Start with cold meats and buratta, followed by king prawns tartare. Then, their main course of carbonara, made with pork cheek, has to be one of my favourite dishes of all time.

For the grand finale – chocolate soufflé with popcorn ice-cream; share it with someone you love and you will both be in heaven. salumeriaroscioli.com

DRINKS

Rooftop Bar, Marker Hotel, Dublin I know we don’t get many sunny days in Ireland but when we do, you couldn’t be anywhere better to sip on a G&T, or a cucumber and elderflower martini.

The views on a clear day stretch from the mountains to the sea. If it’s a bit chilly, the lovely, attentive staff supply cosy blankets, which only add to the atmosphere. If you’re a bit peckish, chef Gareth Mullins offers a great tasting plates menu to nibble from while you chill out to the suitably slick soundtrack. themarkerhoteldublin.com

DESIGNING, WEAVING & TAILORING

Menswear, Womenswear & Accessories Magee of South Anne Street, Magee at Arnotts & Magee of Donegal Selected Stockists in Ireland

#CARA VIEW

finder

VIENNA “We had heard stories about the beauty of Vienna but it was more than we had ever imagined. We can’t wait to go back and get lost in this beautiful city.”

Cristina Bartumeus, Barcelona; @cris.bartu

You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag.

When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna daily.

LOS ANGELES “I have a deep love for the ocean and paddle boarding, so on a recent trip to California I ventured to Venice Beach to seek out a few board shacks where I took this photo. If you’ve never paddle or surfboarded, get those swimming trunks on and learn.

It’s a fun adventure to be had and a skill to hold. And California is one of the most perfect places to do so.”

Jordan Alyssa Cobb, Chicago; @j.quaintrelle

BOSTON “This bench is by a pretty lagoon in the Public Garden on Boston Common, one of the many sights to see on the Freedom Trail. I’ve seen the film Good Will Hunting so many times that I’m sure it had some impact on my decision to visit Boston.

It therefore seemed fitting to sit on the bench that Robin Williams’ Sean Maguire tells Matt Damon’s Will Hunting a few home truths in the film.”

Laura Whiston, London; @lawhisty

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston twice daily, and daily from Shannon.

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OVER TO YOU

Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder

BARCELONA “My boyfriend and I were running a 10k race in Barcelona and it was a really horrible experience. To make up for it, and to celebrate me getting a personal best time, we went to our favourite place for brunch, Picnic restaurant.”

Lina Quirós, Colombia; @linaquiros

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona twice daily.

ATHENS “I’m currently working as an ICU nurse in Saudi Arabia and visited Athens as part of a recent holiday around Europe. This photo was taken at the top of the Acropolis overlooking Athens and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.”

April Bureros, Phillippines; @freljoi

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Athens three times per week.

BARCELONA “This photo of L’Estel Ferit sculpture was taken on Barceloneta Beach. It’s such a magical place, with street vendors selling beach blankets and fresh mojitos everywhere you turn. I love the laid-back vibe of this area. ” Jillian Morkan, Meath; @jillianmorkan

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona twice daily.

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FUNNIEST CITY? I spent 15 minutes trying to think of an accurate answer to this question, then I slapped myself in the face and said what the hell are you doing Tom? Cities aren’t funny. It’s the people in the cities that are funny. So where are the funniest people in the world? I’d have to say it’s a toss-up between New York City and Winnipeg Manitoba.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Canadian comic TOM GREEN first found fame in the 1990s, when the then-edgy MTV picked up his subversive talk show The Tom Green Show. A movie career followed (Charlie’s Angels, Freddy Got Fingered, Road Trip) before he returned to stand-up and also branched out into TV, radio, his own internet chat show and most recently podcasts. This month he brings his live European Road Trip tour to Ireland: Vicar Street, Dublin (June 1); Dolan’s Warehouse, Limerick (June 2); Róisín Dubh, Galway (June 3) and City Limits, Cork (June 4).

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WHAT ARE YOU MOST LOOKING FORWARD TO ON THIS TRIP TO IRELAND? I have toured all over the world but have never performed stand-up comedy in Ireland. Being of Irish descent myself, it feels like a homecoming of sorts. My grandfather was conceived in Ireland, travelled across the ocean in my greatgrandmother’s belly and was born in Canada. It was my grandfather’s dream to return to Ireland, which he eventually did. Except he passed away on the last day of the trip.

He really didn’t want to leave. I’m looking forward to visiting my ancestral home.

WHAT DID YOUR CHILDHOOD HOLIDAYS CONSIST OF? As a child growing up in Canada, our summer vacations consisted of going to the family cottage and playing in the woods. Also fishing and catching frogs and snakes. Canadians spend a lot of their time catching frogs. My strongest memory from childhood is when I was catching frogs I would think to myself someday this is going to make a great story to promote my comedy tour in Ireland. I knew all of the Irish people would want to come see the Canadian frog catcher.

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APARTMENTS FROM £335,000 BOOK YOUR APPOINTMENT +44 (0)20 3797 6951

COMPUTER GENERATED IMAGE. PRICES CORRECT AS AT TIME OF PRINT.

A NE W RIV ERSIDE ISL A ND DE S TIN ATION, FORGED FROM THE ENDURING SPIRIT OF LONDON.

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GO SMART | VALPOLICELLA

WHERE THE ART IS

Melanie Mullan explores vibrant Valpolicella in northern Italy. uongiorno Principessa!”

I am reminded of Roberto Benigni’s film, Life is Beautiful, as we drive through the Valpolicella region of northern Italy – less than 15 kilometres from Verona airport, where vineyards and olive groves lead to the fiveacre estate of Byblos Art Hotel (Via Cedrare, +39 045 685 5555; byblosarthotel.com). “Good morning Princess!” seems like an appropriate statement when approaching this 18th-century villa turned luxurious retreat designed by Renaissance architect Ignazio Pellegrini.

If its exterior is charmingly neoclassical, its interiors are modern-day cuckoo; a medley of contemporary art alongside historic pieces, curated by designer and architect Alessandro Mendini, famed for his bright colours and amorphous shapes. The lobby greets us with flamboyant furniture, while hallways are adorned with quirky (and sometimes racy) pieces, each by a different artist (Cindy Sherman, Damien Hirst and Takashi Murakami to name a few) or collective. Spacious guest rooms – from €204 per night – are also uniquely decorated, while, in contrast, the indoor spa maintains

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a classical serenity equal only to the beautifully tended gardens and pool outside.

For relaxation of a completely different, but no less intoxicating kind, we head to one of Valpolicella’s many vineyards.

Pietro Zardini in the centre of Valpolicella Classica, a family-run vineyard passed down through generations. We see buds slowly beginning to appear on vines, the first since mid-September’s harvest, and spend hours learning about the history of winemaking in the underground cellar, sipping classicos, ripassos and the much praised amarones.

The renowned Lake Garda can also be reached within the hour, where striking views, villas and exceptional gelato are a given.

Drive further north and you arrive at Lago di Tenno – an idyllic crystal blue lake at around 560 metres above sea level. We have it pretty much all to ourselves on our off-peak visit but for a gentleman and his fishing rod, while dormant paddle-boats bob on the shore. It’s the perfect spot for grazing on a picnic, or venturing across the lake to its remote island.

After inhaling all that mountain air, you’ll particularly enjoy dinner back at the hotel – at Amista 33,

which is more an experience than a meal. Its nine-course tasting menu takes diners on a culinary tour of Italy, using beautifully presented fresh produce that is explained with great pride by the staff. We sit and enjoy the fine wine between courses, not finishing our dinner until long into the evening.

The Italians have it right when it comes to dining, there’s no rush. Th at’s not how it works.

That’s La Vita é Bella indeed.

Belle bolthole – Byblos Art Hotel has high drama inside and out.

WHAT TO PACK Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream, €24 in our inflight Boutique magazine, p9

Midi Tassel Pouch Bag, £140 at boden.co.uk Pearlescent Earrings, €29 at stories.com Revolutionary Ride by Lois Pryce (Hodder & Stoughton), €20.99 at eason.com

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Tom Ford Solo di Positano (100ml), €262 at brownthomas.com

Golden Braided High Heel Sandals, €45.95 at zara.com

Karen Millen Flared Structure Bodice Dress €235 at brownthomas.com

Earla Highwaist Flare Skirt, €342 at aliceandolivia.com

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican checks out new reads, previews Bloomsday and listens to literary voices.

CITY OF LIGHTS BY MARVIN E NEWMAN (edited by Reuel Golden, Taschen, €450)

CONEY ISLAND, 1953 © MARVIN E. NEWMAN, 2017, HOWARD GREENBERG GALLERY, COURTESY OF TASCHEN

In 1952 Marvin E Newman graduated with an MSc in Photography from Chicago’s celebrated Institute of Design and returned to his native New York film. In Chicago he learnt to turn the to capture it on film. camera on every situation and make no discrimination between artistic, commercial, conceptual, street or any other kind of photography – he responds to people, buildings, fashion, sports, festivities and industry with the same elegant, affectionate and egalitarian eye.

These images capture New York at a high point – the early ones in particular, saturated in 1950s colour, are gorgeous. This is the first career monograph of Newman, now aged 89, and he has signed these stunning collector’s editions, representing 40 years of looking at New York, America and Americans.

NOVEL THE CITY OF ULYSSES by Teolinda Gersão (Dalkey Archive Press, translated from Portuguese by Jethro Soutar, from June 23) This city of Ulysses isn’t Dublin – despite the month that’s in it – but Lisbon. A man and a woman meet, fall in love and together dream of an art exhibition showing the history of Lisbon in all its complexity and contradiction.

THRILLER THE THERAPY HOUSE by Julie Parsons (Little Island, pbk) An elderly judge is murdered in Dún Laoghaire in 2013. His next door neighbour, retired Garda detective Michael McLoughlin, is drawn into the investigation and uncovers links to his own father’s murder by the IRA decades earlier. Stylish psychological thriller set in post-Peace Process Ireland.

Julie Parsons’ first book in seven years.

TRAVEL CYCLING SOUTH LEINSTER

by Turlough O’Brien (The Collins Press Cycling Great Road Guides, pbk/ebook) The third in The Collins Press Cycling Ireland guides – see also Kerry and Munster – these cycling routes, complete with maps, photos, gradient graphs, sightseeing and key stats, take cyclists through south Leinster’s bogs, woodlands, beaches and canals. Some of the least explored terrains in Ireland.

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FLOWERED UP Bloomsday on June 16 – the day on which James Joyce’s Ulysses is set – is now celebrated all round the world. In Dublin it has turned into Bloomsweek, starting on June 11 with tours and a literary pub crawl, culminating on June 16 with the full Bloom breakfast (kidneys and gizzards) and allday readings, as you walk in the footsteps of Bloom and Dedalus from the Forty Foot in Sandycove at 8am through Dalkey, Westland Row, Sandymount Strand, Duke Street … and on to 7 Eccles St at 2am. jamesjoyce.ie/ bloomsday

DOWNLOAD

PODCAST TLS Voices A weekly 40-minute podcast, hosted by TLS editor Stig Abell and commissioning editor Thea Lenarduzzi, that generally takes the format of interviewing two or three of the writers featured in the week’s print edition on the latest book releases, social issues, or notable art exhibitions and cultural events around the world.

Also features poetry readings and one-off lectures. Smart, eclectic, wide-ranging – Abell calls it a “podcast designed for the weekly commute”.

Free download at iTunes or the-tls.co.uk.

An exciting new restaurant in the heart of Dublin City. A new food experience by Dylan McGrath to explore the idea of flavour, tastes and in the room cooking, while being influenced by Japan, Spain and South America.

“I love the flavour release of some of these cooking techniques. I find something special in the use of their immediate, quick heat and I hope you do too”.

- Dylan McGrath

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e are committed to bringing to the plate all that is great from the best of Irish produce, at a time when its is important to support the value, the effort and commitment of our Irish producers and farmers. These people are an inspiration to us; through their passion they are continuously evolving with a determination to be proud of what we do on this rapidly developing food island”.

- Dylan McGrath

Taste at Rustic 17 South Great George’s St. Dublin 2, Ireland.

Tel: +353 (01) 526 7701

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com

tasteatrustic.com

“At Rustic Stone our philosophy is simple. We source the best seasonal ingredients, then we apply simple techniques to extract the most flavour, while giving you the information you need to add nutrition and structure to your diet. The produce I’ve chosen and our demand for freshness, is the cornerstone of our Rustic idea, while providing a healthy but affordable eating approach.”

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com

- Dylan McGrath 17 South Great Georges Street T: 01 707 9596 rusticstone.ie

GO SMART | LA

5 GOOD REASONS ...

GRAHAM CORCORAN

to make your way to LA. Eoin Higgins takes in the best of the West Coast.

EAT For variety and quality, you will be hard-pressed to find a better destination on the planet. Once renowned solely as a fast food Nirvana, and even that is still done with considerable flair – check out In-N-Out Burger – the city that originated the Korean taco is now best known as a global food powerhouse.

Whatever ethnic food style you crave, you’ll find its apex here, in its original form as well as multitude variations and twists.

ABSORB From paleontological to picturesque, museums in LA come in all shapes and sizes, covering subjects broad and narrow. For dinosaur fans, dig the dugup bones at the Natural History Museum or marvel at the macabre models at La Brea Tar Pits. Art lovers will find solace at the modern, colossal LACMA, while photo fans should develop an affinity with the free-to-enter Annenberg Space for Photography.

WATCH Hooray for Holly-wood … dum, dum, dum, I forget the words … dum, dum, dum, Holl-y-wood ...

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.

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The City of Angels is known for nothing if not for its unchallenged status as the home of The Movies.

From the golden age of silver screen glamourpusses to the action era of exploding SUVs and handcrafted sets, experience the world of the moving picture up close and personal through any number of tours, studio visits and celebrity home snooping.

DRIVE Drop the top and put the pedal to the metal … Los Angeles is a driver’s paradise, not least because the public transport system is so, well, lacklustre. As a result, car culture is huge here; LA is a city where what you drive says as much about you as what you say, or do. If you take just one pleasure cruise, make sure it’s one of the most iconic: the famous Mulholland Drive is a highly memorable jaunt.

LAUGH Disneyland, Universal Studios, Six Flags Magic Mountain, Legoland California … a fantasy escape route is never far from sight in sunny California.

The original and, some still insist, the best, is Disneyland in Anaheim, about a half hour’s drive from LA’s busy downtown.

Here, at the “happiest place on Earth”, even the most intransigent curmudgeons will find it hard not to buy into the dream.

Over 70 million people around the world claim direct descent from Irish emigrants who left our shores and set out to distant lands on epic journeys. At EPIC in Dublin’s Docklands you can take an interactive journey of discovery to find out why they left, see how they influenced the world they found, and experience the connection between their descendants and Ireland today.

Open daily 10am - 5pm.

Visit www.epicchq.com or call +353 (0)1 906 0861 to book your tickets.

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WILD ONE

Ireland’s latest greenway, in Co Waterford, has locals and visitors abuzz about the Sunny Southeast. Eoin Higgins discovers a route to happiness. aterford is something of a hotspot, its pretty seaside town of Dunmore East currently taking centre-stage in the primetime BBC drama series, Redwater. But it’s the recent addition to Ireland’s ever-expanding greenway portfolio that really has feet itching to power pedal towards the county this season.

A relatively short time in the making, and stemming from a grassroots campaign started by a group of civic-minded Waterford residents, with the help of the County Council, the country’s latest pedestrian- and bike-friendly greenway has already become a source of immense county pride.

Take Máire Flynn, co-owner of Dungarvan’s famous Tannery Restaurant and Townhouse, who says the project “has been transformational for our business.

We are so delighted and proud of it”, while her husband and business partner, Paul, waxes further, revealing “the sense of optimism

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surrounding the Greenway is palpable, there’s a fizz of excitement about the possibilities it might bring”. And those possibilities are only good news for visitors, coming in the shape of the cafés, eco businesses and attractions that have begun to spring up along the route. “Dungarvan is buzzing too and visitors are curious about this undiscovered jewel on the Southeast coast,” Paul adds.

And rightly curious. Beginning in Waterford city, the Deise Greenway – so-called after the county’s nickname “An Déise” (after a tribe of native Gaelic people who settled here in the fourth century) – wends its way over turn-of-the-century bridges, once-vital viaducts, along dappled rivers, passing through cool Victorian railway tunnels and

Wheely good – this latest Greenway is set to put Waterford’s natural resources, and also its local businesses, on the tourism map.

careening over craggy causeways, while its pedestrians and cyclists take in the beguiling range of rural and coastal views and scenes for which Waterford is already much-admired.

The route’s end is no anti-climax either, petering out gently at the lovely coastal town of Dungarvan – a destination worth breaking a sweat for. Here, with a wellestablished food scene the envy of many other towns and counties, discover a perfect antidote to joyful exercise: foodie indulgence. No better reason to push the pedal towards Waterford this summer.

For more information on Waterford and Dunmore East, click through to visitwaterford.com. Redwater airs Sundays on RTÉ 1 at 9.30pm and Thursdays on BBC One.

WATERFORD WONDERS STAY The Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore is still the apex of accommodation options here.

Tasteful, unique design, exceptional staff and a droolworthy Michelinstarred restaurant, left, that’s worth the trip alone. The setting is ruggedly beautiful too. Rooms from €310 based on two sharing, but ask about the “Greenway Getaway” package. thecliffhousehotel.com

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EAT Dungarvan’s The Tannery is the county’s casual most wellestablished dining experience and always well-turned out. Expect excellent, yet unpretentious executions of locally-sourced things like charred hake with dill butter sauce, spring greens and mussels, or Comeragh mountain lamb, heritage carrots, cabbage and wild mushroom broth. tannery.ie

CYCLE If you’re not bringing your own wheels, brill bikes are available for hire. Located in three locations en route, Waterford Greenway Bike Hire has a wide selection of Giant hybrids that are perfect for zipping along the greenway. There are also electric bikes – ideal for those who want the experience without the effort. waterfordgreenwaybikehire.com

Available to buy from:

· Dublin Bus Travel information Desk (T1 Arrivals) · Spar shop (T2 Arrivals) · Discover Ireland Tourist Information Desk (T2 Arrivals)

The Leap Visitor Card can be used on: Airlink 747/757 airport bus services, all Dublin Bus scheduled services, all Luas (tram) services and DART and Commuter Rail in the Short Hop Zone.

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FIFA FEVER

Ken Early tackles this year’s Confederations Cup contenders.

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RUSSIA

Sadly, some of the most memorable images of Euro 2016 were of Russian hooligans beating up English supporters in Marseille – but they found the going even tougher on the field.

Russia were the worst team in the competition and were knocked out without winning a game. Since then they have lost to Costa Rica, Qatar and Ivory Coast. Results like these in the World Cup would mortify the mighty Bear, but it’s not easy to put together a competitive international football team from scratch in two years.

This year’s qualifier will give us a sense of whether Russian football is headed for humiliation on the biggest stage of all.

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GERMANY

The world champions’ procession towards the World Cup finals is as serene as ever; Germany have won all their matches in qualifying so far. Yet there are doubts over whether the side has the edge and the appetite to repeat its success in Brazil 2014. Germany has more very good players than anyone else, but perhaps they are lacking truly great ones. And the coach, Joachim Löw, has been in the job 11 years – an eternity in international football. The challenge for Germany in this year’s Confederations Cup is to prove that a successful formula has not gone stale.

ILLUSTRATION BY AOIFE DOOLEY

n December 2010, FIFA’s executive committee awarded the right to host the 2018 World Cup to Russia. Since then, a lot of things have changed. The FIFA executive committee no longer exists, after football’s governing body imploded in a 2015 corruption scandal. And relations between Russia and the West have soured, after the latter countries responded to Russia’s 2014 annexation of Crimea with economic and political sanctions.

What better time, then, to host a major international football tournament in Russia! The Confederations Cup is FIFA’s World Cup warm-up tournament. It takes place the year before the World Cup – in this case, June 17 to July 2 – and allows the host country to familiarise itself with the challenges of running a tournament.

The participants this year are Russia (2018 World Cup hosts), Germany (2014 World Cup winners), and the six continental champions: Cameroon, Mexico, Chile, Australia, Portugal and New Zealand.

Internationally, the event’s focus will be on how travelling supporters are treated, with Russia’s “fans” having won a fearsome reputation at last summer’s European Championships in France. For Russia, the task is twofold: to show that the country is safe and welcoming, and to field a team worthy of defending the national colours at next summer’s World Cup. Here are the key teams.

PORTUGAL

The surprise winners of Euro 2016 have an important decision to make. Should their superstar come with them to the Confederations Cup, or should they let him take a holiday instead? Cristiano Ronaldo is 32 now and if he wants to be at his best in the World Cup next summer, he could do with a rest this time around. The rational choice would be to sit this tournament out. But Ronaldo’s ambition is not rational. His goal is to be remembered as the best player in history. That means he has to keep playing, scoring and winning, whenever the opportunity arises. There will be time enough to rest when he’s retired.

CHILE

Chile’s national team is experiencing a golden age: they went nearly a century without winning the South American championship and now they travel to Russia having won the last two. Partly that’s because the traditional South American powers, Brazil and Argentina, have been going through a rough patch. But it’s also because Chile have elite talent – players such as Alexis Sanchez and Arturo Vidal – and a hyperactive style that has won them admirers around the world. Any team that can stop Chile will have a great chance of winning this tournament.

CERTIFICATE of EXCELLENCE 2015 winner

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WINE AND DINE

Located in the marina overlooking Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge, the WAVE ORGAN on Marina Green Drive is a unique, wave-gurgling instrument played by the bay itself. As water undulates through pipes, the organ plays a spooky tune that’s at its eerie best at high tide, so check the tables and enjoy the haunting sounds of the sea.

The cosiest, quirkiest venue that ever was, RADIO HABANA SOCIAL CLUB – a tiny sangria bar and Cuban restaurant – is covered floor to ceiling with trinkets and kitsch such as beheaded Barbie dolls, Frida Kahlo stencils and childhood games.

With tasty treats, live music and a wall-to-wall Rorschach test, it’s a surefire conversation starter. (1109 Valencia Street, +1 415 824 7659)

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

San Francisco

Are you going to San Francisco? Dublin-born export Roe McDermott shows us around.

MORE ABOUT ROE

Dublin-born Roe McDermott is a writer, film critic and Fulbright scholar, who moved to San Francisco in 2014 to study sexuality studies. Her interest in travel, sexuality and politics will next take her to Oxford, where she’ll complete her PhD in gender and citizenship.

A colourful and free alternative to the city’s art galleries, the Mission District’s 24th Street is known for its murals. The wildly decorated CLARION ALLEY is a highlight, with artwork that espouses social and political inclusiveness and pays homage to famous artists such as José Orozco and Diego Rivera.

Located in the historic Haight-Ashbury neighbourhood, independent bookstore THE BOOKSMITH is known not only for its incomparable array of books (including a magical children’s section) but also its events. From book swaps to erotic fan-fiction recitals to writers panels, it’s always enlightening, outrageous and entertaining. (1644 Haight Street, +1 415 863 8688; booksmith.com)

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Fancy a karaoke night? Forget about battered old machines in grungy bars and instead head to MARTUNI’S piano bar, where endless varieties of martinis come in glasses frosted with sugar and your backing track is provided by a classically trained pianist in drag. (4 Valencia Street, +1 415 241 0205)

A best-kept secret, the NEPTUNE SOCIETY COLUMBARIUM was finished in 1895 and boasts stunning Baroque and neoclassical features.

It also houses the remains of SF icons, including Harvey Milk and Chet Helms, aka the “father” of the 1967 Summer of Love.

(1 Loraine Court, +1 415 221 1838)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SAN FRANCISCO daily.

FUN, ADVENTURE AND RELAXATION AWAITS in The Most Complete Resort in Ireland

With over 350 acres to explore and a wealth of estate activities on offer, Ashford Castle is the perfect destination for fun, adventure and relaxation for all the family.

Estate Activities include: · Spa and fitness centre · Horse riding and equestrian centre · Ireland first school of falconry

· Fishing lessons and day trips · Cycling and kayaking · Clay shooting and archery

www.ashfordcastle.com

· Zip lining and tree climbing · Lake cruising · Golf and tennis

ADVERTORIAL

FOLLOW ME UP TO CARLOW!

O

Bernard and Rosemary Walsh

Walsh Whiskey Distillery at Royal Oak

ne of the best kept secrets of Ireland’s Ancient East is County Carlow. Only one hour from Dublin airport and neighbouring the bustle and sights of 12th century Kilkenny, Carlow offers discerning visitors the chance to be near the action but far from the madding crowds.

Carlow’s boutique hotels and period house B&Bs (e.g. Kilgraney House, Lorum Old Rectory, The Lord Bagenal, etc) offer charming retreats with a personal touch. Alternatively, nearby Mount Juliet Estate, with its equestrian centre and Jack Nicklaus golf course, is world-class. The countryside has walking trails and cycle paths to explore, easy hikes up Mount Leinster (2,612 feet) and barge trips on the gentle River Barrow.

Twenty minutes from Kilkenny City, on the banks of the River Barrow is the Royal Oak Estate. Built in 1755, the estate predates Dublin’s legendary Guinness brewery. Today it is home to Walsh Whiskey Distillery, one of the largest whiskey distilleries in Ireland and a leader of the Irish whiskey renaissance.

Bernard and Rosemary Walsh, started

Holloden House, Royal Oak, built 1755

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their business from their kitchen in 1999.

Now their two premium whiskeys, The Irishman and Writers’ Tears are available in 40 countries worldwide. The distillery produces all three styles of Irish whiskey – pot still, malt and grain – and hosts visitors interested in experiencing the sights, smells and tastes of hand-crafted whiskey distilling.

All local pubs will have a good selection of whiskeys, but the best is likely to be in any of the 10 that are members of the Kilkenny Whiskey Guild. They stock hundreds of Irish whiskeys between them and the bar staff have the expert knowledge to guide your palate. Look out also for Osbournes in Clonegal and O’Sheas in Borris, which will be a hive of activity in June when the Festival of Writing & Ideas takes place with speakers such as former President of Ireland and UN High Commissioner for Human Rights Mary Robinson.

Irish whiskey distilling is an ancient art, the first written account dates back to the 14th century, however, it’s a modern pastime compared to the Brownshill Dolmen 20 minutes from Walsh Whiskey Distillery. This megalithic tomb was built between 3000 and 4000 B.C. and has the largest capstone in Europe, weighing 103 tonnes.

If walled gardens with a touch of Downton Abbey is more your style then just 15 miles from the distillery gate is Duckett’s Grove, a dramatic Gothic-styled 19th century ruin but with wonderfully stocked gardens. Nearby, Altamont Gardens is the jewel in Ireland’s gardening crown and offers an enchanting blend of formal and informal gardens with riverside walks covering over 40 acres.

So as the old rebel song says, “follow me up to Carlow” for the best of hidden Ireland and a drop of the Irish!

ADVERTORIAL

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INTERVIEW

HOORAYFOR

Holywood

From Holywood, Co Down to Hollywood, California, Jamie Dornan has had quite the career. But the actor’s feet are firmly on the ground, thanks to a rural home life and mixing passion projects with blockbusters.

WORDS NANCY ROCKETT

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e’re not in Co Down anymore. Actor Jamie Dornan is reminiscing about filming in South Africa a few years ago, and the trials and tribulations of shifting from a female-oriented set on a small film you may have heard of – Sam TaylorJohnson’s Fifty Shades of Grey – to Richie Smyth’s The Siege of Jadotville, an adaptation of Declan Power’s eponymous book. “We were all in Johannesburg for three months, and luckily I had my wife, and our one daughter at the time, right there. All those other boys, though, they were all cooped up in this hotel in Jadotville for three months, most of them Irish. And you can imagine the scenes ...

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“There were so few women in it, and if a woman was coming, the boys would hover around her and I would be like, lads, relax,” he laughs. “Everyone was moving towards them, a sort of swarm.

I was so happy to go home to my wife.”

Given his meteoric rise to fame, such deflected attention must’ve come as a welcome relief. Born 35 years ago to an obstetrician father (his nurse mother died of cancer when he was 16 years old), the former model seems to have skilfully navigated the choppy, fickle waters of superstardom by juxtaposing celebrity with domestic, bucolic bliss with his ex-actress, musician wife Amelia Warner and their two young daughters in the UK. “We chose to live a really quiet life,” he says of their Cotswolds idyll, “we open our doors and there’s just sheep and lambs and that is the choice we made.”

UNIVERSAL PICTURES

INTERVIEW

Dornan is now two-thirds of his way into EL James’ Fifty Shades of Grey trilogy, a whip-buckling adventure that began in 2015 following his simmering, understated turn in the Anglo-Irish TV series The Fall (2013-2016). While the latter’s serial killer Paul Spector was a brooding, small-screen menace, the former’s smouldering Christian Grey catapulted him to fame quicker than you can say safeword.

A three-film contract is quite the commitment, and, given the fan-girl hullabaloo that has accompanied Fifty Shades, one suspects that Dornan will be happier returning to more low-key fare (of the trilogy’s, er,

climax – next year’s Fifty Shades Freed – he has said: “It’s sad to finish, but it’s good to look ahead”).

Next up is this year’s Untogether, written and directed

by Emma Forrest. And next year he’ll appear as Will Scarlet in the latest iteration of Robin Hood – not exactly low-key, since it also stars Jamie Foxx as Little John and boasts Leonardo DiCaprio as a producer. But compared to the Fifty Shades saga, it’ll feel like an indie flick.

It’s currently being filmed in Budapest and, if his Christian Grey-bankrolled filmography is anything to go by, will help buy Dornan the freedom to do smaller passion projects,

Grey matter – Jamie Dornan with Dakota Johnson in Fifty Shades Darker, the DVD of which is out in Ireland and the UK on June 26.

‘Christian Grey catapulted him to fame quicker than you can say safeword’ 42 |

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too. This was the case with last year’s Anthropoid, in which he starred opposite fellow Irishman Cillian Murphy, and The Siege of Jadotville, a movie about an unsung Irish war hero who led a battalion in the Congo in 1961.

“Telling that story about the soldier [Pat Quinlan] was so important because no one knew it,” he says. “One of the things that I love about being an actor is that, since we made that movie, all the men – in their seventies and eighties – that are still alive from that company in Jadotville have been recognised and given military honours. They had their ceremonies and were at the premiere in Dublin – they were all in tears, and without making that movie, that wouldn’t have happened and I feel really good about that.”

Playing a fictional everyman – as opposed to a psychopath – enabled him to dig deep while

T I:AMO CO L L E CT ION W IT H NAOMI CAMPBE L L

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INTERVIEW

Stone cold smoulder – Dornan won critical acclaim for his nuanced turn as Paul Spector in The Fall.

BBC

leaving the role behind at the studio doors. “I think every character should be treated as a fresh start and you should see the man,” he says, of parallels between Spector and Grey. “Pat Quinlan I admired totally. But for The Fall, I don’t think I have ever done a job that has made me ask so many questions of myself. The majority of serial murderers were abused as a child – except, weirdly, Ted Bundy, who I did a lot of research on and he had a very happy childhood.

Thankfully I don’t know what that experience is like, but I had to put myself in a place for four-and-a-half years playing that character.

“You can never forgive the actions of how someone behaved but you have to allow yourself to have an understanding of it, I think – and be grateful that it

is a million miles away from how you would react.”

Fatherhood has also softened him. He remembers struggling to evoke the tenderness between Spector and his young daughter in the first series of The Fall.

“I did find that easier in the second and third season, having had my own kids,” he admits.

“There is a scene – a horrible scene – where I am washing a corpse in the bath, I am painting her nails. On the same day we also had a bath scene where I was washing my screen daughter’s hair. It was just so awful.

“I was washing this little girl’s hair and Allan Cubitt, who created The Fall, came in and was like, ‘you have never washed a little girl’s hair before?’ I was like ‘no, what am I doing wrong?’

He said I was doing it really aggressively, and I was like maybe I am not set up to be a father,” he laughs.

Like many actors, Dornan considers himself a failed musician and was in a band, Sons of Jim, for many years. For

several years during his modelling days, appearing in high-profile campaigns for the likes of Armani and Dior, he was involved with English actress Keira Knightley.

But despite all his recent accomplishments, he still jokes about devising a Plan B. “I still cling to some belief that I am going to play sport professionally or something when the acting dries up,” he smiles.

In this unlikely event, he could also count on his Belfast wiles to seduce Hollywood (as opposed to the Holywood of his birth). “Being Irish is never any harm and it can open doors,” he admits. “People usually like Irish people but you still have to prove yourself every time. I’m always delighted to see people like Jason O’Mara, Tim Murphy and Victoria Smurfit when I’m in LA, and we cheer for each other no matter what role any of us is playing.

“It’s a tough business but I’m always delighted to see any of my fellow Paddies doing well and I think it’s the same with them.”

THREE CHEERS FOR ...

Jamie Dornan’s career defining roles to date PAUL SPECTOR, THE FALL A serial killer who hides in plain sight, Spector, left, is a father, husband, bereavement counsellor and sociopath.

Behind the domestic veneer, he plans and executes a range of sadistic and sexually motivated murders, which his seemingly normal lifestyle skilfully conceals.

CHRISTIAN GREY, FIFTY SHADES He might be a handsome billionaire, but Grey is a very damaged, er, package, who uses sexual dominance and sadism in his private life to compensate for

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his dark past, ie mammy issues. Cue brooding cinematography, blue dialogue and surprisingly sensual scenes of S&M with Dakota Johnson.

PAT QUINLAN, THE SIEGE OF JADOTVILLE Dornan steps away from playing creeps to depict a real-life hero – Quinlan, an Irish commander, who led a battalion of Irish and Swedish UN peacekeepers in the Congo in 1961. Despite being outnumbered by Tshombe loyalists 20 to one, there were no fatalities among Quinlan’s men.

WITH LINDA GRAY

STYLE TO SUIT EVERY HOME

W W W. N E W B R I D G E S I LV E R W A R E . C O M

THE SPOKEN WORD ACE WHO Emmet Kirwan WHAT Playwright and star performer of THISISPOPBABY’s variety show RIOT, which runs at Vicar Street, Dublin on July 6-8, 13-15

Calling Emmet Kirwan just a writer is a bit of an understatement, given his performance, scriptwriting and acting work.

“I’ve always been interested in writing and had written everything from plays to poems and comedy sketches. I wrote a television comedy series for RTÉ2 and enjoyed it, but could see the limitations in TV with regard to budget and what you can say, compared to theatre.”

While many writers gravitate towards books, Kirwan likes the versatility inherent in theatre. “I’ve worked in theatre for over 15 years and everything is about the dialogue and how characters sound, what their vernacular is, as opposed to the novel’s preoccupation with what a character is thinking. Theatre can also be quite a versatile place for writing styles that can sit easily alongside each other. My last play had verse and prose, spoken word poems, rap and traditional dialogue scenes all in the one text.”

Kirwan’s powerful short film Heartbreak about poverty and teen pregnancy went viral earlier this year, having made its debut in RIOT at last year’s Dublin Fringe Festival (“I was asked to write four spoken word poems that would frame the show and that spoke about the state of modern Ireland”). But before it’s revived at Vicar Street, he’s “currently writing a play based on Irish mythology called The Last Partholonian and a radio drama for BBC Radio 4 called Wild West.”

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TELLING

Stories Ireland’s literary heritage is legendary but the current generation of storytellers are also making serious waves at home and abroad, in publishing, theatre and film.

WORDS SINÉAD GLEESON PHOTOGRAPHS SEAN BREITHAUPT & YVETTE MONAHAN

n the last decade, Irish writers have won every major book prize, from the Man Booker to the Baileys Women’s Prize for Fiction (won twice in three years, by Eimear McBride and Lisa McInerney). We are known as a nation of raconteurs and our storytelling tradition has become immortalised on the page, stage and screen. Established names such as Colm Tóibín and Anne Enright have been joined by a new generation of writers, taking risks in form and subject matter. Our playwrights have removed theatre’s fourth wall and transported it onto the streets, into former laundries and inner-city houses. New literary

I

journals The Stinging Fly, Gorse and Banshee foster emerging names, champion the short story and publish work in the Irish language.

Irish novels increasingly make successful Oscar-nominated films, such as Brooklyn and Room (see our interview with Emma Donoghue on page 16). It’s also no surprise that the world’s most valuable annual literary prize for a work of fiction in English is Irish – the International Dublin Literary Award gives a cool €100,000 to the winner. Anne Enright once astutely said: “There’s no VIP room in Irish writing” but there’s a strong sense of community, of writers and small presses united by words and a shared respect across the genres. Here are six writers to watch.

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PEOPLE | STORYTELLERS

THE DEBUT NOVELIST WHO Eithne Shortall WHAT Arts journalist and first-time novelist Eithne Shortall works as an arts journalist and initially found it hard to find time to write – until an unexpected opportunity arose.

“I finally made the leap when I got a three-month break from work.

I was going to write the first draft in those three months if it was the last thing I did. I decided to go abroad for the break so that if the book didn’t work out, I’d have gotten something else out of the leave. I settled on London – and a fun, heart-warming book about love, possibilities and people, set at Heathrow airport.”

It’s been a relatively swift journey from first draft to publication for Shortall. “From the first day I put pen

to paper to now has been just over two years.”

The setting of Love in Row 27 (Corvus, released in June) is relevant to this publication – her heroine is Aer Lingus staff – and Shortall can’t believe there aren’t more books set in airports. “It’s a place where all of life meets. Think of how many varied existences pass through an airport on any given day. It’s full of possibilities.

I picked Aer Lingus because I have a fondness for it and I loved the idea of my characters in the green uniforms.”

Any talk of the book being on screen (and possible in-flight movie)?

“We’re currently in negotiations with an international broadcaster about TV rights. Several people have said it’d make a good TV show. It’s exciting and I would love for that to happen.”

THE THEATRE MAVERICK WHO Mark O’Rowe WHAT Intermission screenwriter and playwright of Crestfall, which is showing at Galway International Arts Festival July 14-29 and at Dublin’s Peacock Theatre August 1-12 Best known for his plays Terminus, Howie the Rookie and the film Intermission, Mark O’Rowe is almost an accidental playwright.

“I’ve always had a great love for literature and cinema. Finding myself in my mid-twenties, unskilled and unemployable, I tried my hand at writing, thinking perhaps I could eventually make some money out of it. I chose theatre because it seemed like the easiest form to master. It wasn’t.”

Theatre and film are two very different disciplines but O’Rowe has adapted, admitting that his film work

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helps him survive financially in a way theatre simply would not. He also feels that Irish theatre is in a particularly good place.

“Irish theatre is extremely strong. We have some of the best writers and actors you’ll find anywhere. That Irish writing is doing so well across many disciplines is very exciting, not to mention indicative of the quality of the work.”

Does he feel like an Irish writer?

“I suppose I am in terms of a particular set of interests or concerns, though, then I think that’s for others to decide.” O’Rowe has a busy year ahead with a new production of one of his old plays, plus a film. “Druid are producing Crestfall for the Galway Arts Festival this summer, and The Delinquent Season – a film I wrote and directed starring Cillian Murphy and Sherlock’s Andrew Scott – will be released later this year.”

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PEOPLE | STORYTELLERS

THE HISTORIC FICTIONIST WHO Hazel Gaynor WHAT Author of A Memory of Violets and The Girl from the Savoy After her corporate career came to an end, Hazel Gaynor turned her hand to writing, persevering after initial rejection.

“I self-published my novel The Girl Who Came Home after rejection from publishers, but it became a Kindle bestseller. Publishers also rejected my next novel, but in 2013 I was approached by a literary agent in New York and soon I had a two-book deal with Harper Collins. Both books subsequently became New York Times bestsellers and I’m now writing my fifth novel.”

Between the isolation of sitting at a desk and myth about the finances involved, writing is not for everyone. “Someone once said that writing a book is like telling a joke and waiting two years to find out if it

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is funny. There’s also a misconception that writers earn huge advances and royalties but the truth is far from that.”

There has been a wave of new Irish voices, winning prizes and bagging book deals in the last five years. “It is incredibly inspiring to see so many Irish writers – especially women – being acknowledged on the global stage. There is also a tremendous honesty, humour and grit in Irish writing, which I’m sure is part of the reason for the current success.”

Gaynor has a hectic year ahead, with the publication of her fourth novel, The Cottingley Secret (HarperCollins, released September 7) inspired by Britain’s Cottingley Fairies swindle of the 1910s.

“Life has never been busier. I can’t wait to see what the future brings, which is kind of ironic for someone who loves writing about the past!”

THE YOUNG GUN WHO Oisín Fagan WHAT Short story writer and emerging novelist The last year has been a busy and successful one for Oisín Fagan. The 25-year-old from County Meath won a novella competition and published his debut collection of short stories, Hostages.

“My short stories are interested in collectivity and community. So much writing is about individuals, and their pain and oppression. I’m more interested in how larger groups of people deal with these things. But my primary concern is astonishment. I want to astonish the reader.”

Fagan published his first short story at 19, and finished writing two books by the age of 21, but success took its time finding him. “At the time I thought the world of publishing would open up to me, but nothing much happened. I took a few very necessary punches to my juvenile ego after that, and then in 2014 I made a commitment to have as much fun with writing as possible.

This allowed the work to flow, and it started to connect with a few people.”

After the success of his short stories, he is now focusing on novels.

“I’ve just finished a short novel set in 1833 about a bunch of peasants who take over a haunted manor house.

It’s scary and funny. I’m also working on a longer novel, set in the future. It’s difficult, and it will take some time, but life is all about big projects. Right now, though, I’m just enjoying writing; and hopefully I’ll enjoy it for a long time.”

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PEOPLE | STORYTELLERS

THE POET WHO Kerrie O’Brien WHAT Illuminate author and editor Like many people, Kerrie O’Brien had an early love of books. “I spent a lot of my childhood in second-hand bookshops and libraries – reading was escapism and later I was drawn to song lyrics. I used to buy CDs and write out the lyrics, which is where my love of rhythmic language started.”

Last year was a busy one for O’Brien: she published Illuminate (Salmon Poetry), a much-lauded collection of verse, was shortlisted for the Penny Dreadful Novella Prize and co-edited the anthology Looking at the Stars, which raised over €22,000 for the homeless.

Making a living solely from writing is increasingly difficult, she says, and most writers have other jobs. “Big book deals and lecturing positions can provide solid incomes – I’ve always worked in the literary scene and book trade so there are various ways to make a living through writing.

Can I make a living solely off poetry books sales? No, not yet!”

O’Brien also notes the recent wave of success of Irish writers, which she says has many factors.

“Ireland has always been known for its exceptional writers. With the growing number of creative writing programmes and the hard work of independent Irish publishers and literary organisations, there are more opportunities for talent to be nurtured.” In the coming months, O’Brien will be at various festivals, and hopes to write a novel.

“I’ll also be focusing on my second poetry collection, exploring the work of [artist] Francis Bacon, violence, flesh and desire.”

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DESTINATION | BUNDORAN

COLD WATER

Paradise

Surfers flock to Donegal’s Bundoran where geographic and meteorological forces offer world-class waves all year round.

But in June, they come for the music festival too.

WORDS CONOR CREIGHTON PHOTOGRAPHS STEVE RYAN

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Swell season – surfers on Tullan Strand.

Photo courtesy of Piotr Dybowski and David Sciora.

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DESTINATION | BUNDORAN

O

nce upon a time I worked as a glass collector in a popular Dublin nightclub. On busy nights, the toilets tended to overflow. I’d go tell the manager and his reply was always the same, they don’t come here for the toilets, Conor. Arriving into Bundoran and watching the fields of mobile homes – in lime, beige, rose and cornflower blue – buttressing Legoland builds and damp amusements, I can hear my manager’s nasal whine in my ear: People don’t come to Bundoran for the town, Conor, they come for all that surrounds it.

The names Peak, 3D PaMPA and Mullys might mean nothing to you but for surfers these names are what keep them up at night and convince them to abandon the southern sunshine and make a pilgrimage to Ireland’s north-east in the dead of winter, preferably when the weather’s at its nastiest.

A “cold-water paradise” was what South African journalist Craig Jarvis called Bundoran. A number of seemingly random (or designed, depending on your belief system) geographic and meteorological forces conspired to turn Ulster’s least hospitable habitat into a world-class surfing resort.

Richie Fitzgerald began surfing in Bundoran in 1982. This was a time when surfing in Ireland was as popular as bobsleighing in Jamaica. Richie, although he’d never admit it, played a large part in popularising surfing in Ireland. A certain Guinness ad with a Leftfield soundtrack, a crisis in masculinity and the image of Richie surfing the 14-metre wave at Mullaghmore – a wave that was deemed unsurfable – sparked a surfing craze in Ireland in the 1990s and 2000s. Reef sandals on Grafton Street, buskers playing Jack Johnson on Shop Street and, in Bundoran, hundreds of weekend warriors battling through the white wash like pudgy Patrick Swayzes.

But that’s summer.

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camouflage,” Richie says, referring to the subzero temperatures and relentless hail. “Surf culture in Ireland is more hardcore than 99 per cent of other surf cultures.”

Richie doesn’t surf professionally anymore. He runs a surf school and shop in the town (surfworld. ie). Stepping into his 3mm highperformance booties is a young man called Conor Maguire. Conor is Bundoran’s bright new hope on the international surfing circuit. He cut his teeth on the same wave that Richie pioneered and, by the time this article appears, may well be the proud owner of a Billabong XXL Big Wave Award – surfing’s Oscars.

As a baby, Conor used to play in the rock pools in front of Mullaghmore and surfed it with a tow-in from a jet-ski when he was 15. “I remember the first time I went out,” he says, “I was sitting on the jet-ski and wanted to go home. I was almost getting sick at the end of the rope I was so scared.”

Conor is a true Bundorian, in that he’s very much at home in the town and its surroundings. When the waves are flat he takes to the

Top, Sligo’s Benbulben makes for an imposing vista – so stunning is Donegal that its airport recently won second most scenic approach after Saba in the Caribbean – and, above, Surfworld’s Richie Fitzgerald, who inspired a generation of Irish wave riders in the nineties and noughties.

at

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DESTINATION | BUNDORAN

inland waterways in his kayak, or sets off exploring caves in the Dartry mountains. He moves like a goat up sodden, boggy gradients, pointing out waterfalls that invert on windy days, rag trees festooned with, yes, weathered underwear, the fairy bridges and ancient burial grounds. Bundoran is the perfect base camp for south Donegal’s epic landscape and ancient rock structures. At one point high up on the north face of Benbulben, Conor stops me and asks me to listen. To what? I ask. Nothing, he replies.

Donegal must be the quietest county in Ireland. Bundoran is quiet too. There are only about 2,000 people there after all. “Yeah, if you’re in a rush it can be hard getting anywhere when you know everyone,” Conor says. When would anyone ever be in a rush in Bundoran?

I ask myself.

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With our shoes and socks dyed brown from bogwater, it’s time to descend from the mountains and, like Celtic warriors of yore, eat cheesecake. The HardyBaker (071 983 3865) in the retail park is a new-ish addition to the town, baking fresh cakes every morning and serving good coffee.

Around the corner from there is a Bundoran institution: Brennan’s pub aka The Criterion bar (071 984 1810). Run by sisters, Patricia and Nan, who prize good manners above all else, you should treat a pint here like a cup of tea at your granny’s: it has been around for longer than any of us and is, in many ways, a palimpsest for Donegal. Brennan’s is a piece of living history, a bar that has stood the tests and trends of time.

During the Sea Sessions Festival (June 23-25; seasessions. com), the town is

awash with southern accents, straw hats, fake tans, skateboarders and surfers. The festival of music and beach life is considered by many to be Ireland’s best new festival; this year’s headliners include Primal Scream, The Coronas and Sigma. Not bad for one that takes place in a slightly unvalued town.

Bundorians themselves admit their home is a rough diamond but there are a few gems. One of them is its sunsets. They happen just before it gets dark every day (crazy!) and can be slow and dreamy like Hawaii or Tahiti. But it’s neither of those places. It’s wild and it’s rugged, containing a beauty that lends itself to fierce poetry rather than brightly coloured lei or coconut oil.

A final thing: Bundorians speak quietly and use few words. This doesn’t mean they don’t like you, they’re just made that way.

For more info on what’s happening in Donegal county, visit govisitdonegal. com and also donegalgathering.com.

Clockwise from opposite, rugged views envelope Classiebawn Castle in Mullaghmore; ace surfer Conor Maguire; velveteen dunes; Bundoran street art; publican sisters Nan and Patricia Brennan.

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FUCHSIA MacAREE

DESTINATION | BUNDORAN

SLEEP PANORAMIC Perched on the headland overlooking the bay and surrounded by a golf links, the Great Northern Hotel is as iconic to Bundoran as Benbulben in the distance. The hotel receives regular “wedding hotel of the year” awards, although brave is the wedding guest who catches any bouquet hurled into the tempestuous Donegal sky. Check your trip doesn’t coincide with Daniel O’ Donnell’s annual appearance or you won’t even get near the place. Doubles from €70. (Sea Road, Drumacrin, 071 984 1204; greatnorthernhotel.com) PRO SURF Where Bundoran meets Hollywood, Cosy Joes Lodge was actually one of the locations for the Butcher Boy film. It’s a beautiful terrace home

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EAT & DRINK with a skate ramp out back and a pool table inside. Many of the pro surfers who pass through town end up staying here but it’s also a great location for families.

It’s laidback and warm. Doubles from €40. (4 Bayview Terrace, Magheracar, 085 821 1168) BUDGET This is all second-hand information naturally, but while I was in Bundoran if I met anyone who looked like they were suffering from a hangover, they told me they’d been at Epic Hostel the night before. A hostel for fans of a session, methinks, fans of a hen party too. Pack your guitar, or pack your earplugs.

Oh, and like other hostels in Bundoran, they have a skate ramp out back also. Dorms from €20.

(2 Single Street, 087 345 9606)

SISTER ACT Southerners who travel to Donegal to find relics of Ireland’s past must visit Brennan’s, a bar that’s more than 100 years old. Run by two sisters who permit no music and no swearing (if you do, please contribute to the swearbox), Brennan’s is a lo-fi reminder for anyone weaning themselves off Netflix and reliable cellular service that they are in fact on the island of Ireland.

(Main Street, 071 984 1810) PINT BREAK At Maddens, you can sit in front of an open fire while eating a Hang Ten Sandwich, one eye towards the window watching the swell. The dinner menu is large, the bar is suitably stocked and ideal for when the afternoon drizzle

develops into an early evening squall. (West End, 071 984 2050; maddensbridgebar.com) GIMME SHELTER For this Berlinbased restaurant critic who doesn’t eat animals and whose work in Ireland is meagre, my bag – packed with nut bars, granola and dried fruit – often resembles a huntergatherer stash. Thankfully, Waves has a decent selection of veggie food, smoothies and homemade cakes. They can also satisfy your need for bacon, ham, chicken and smoked salmon, but no animals were harmed in my production.

(Main Street, 071 984 1777) CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

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Take this waltz Vienna consistently tops the World’s Most Liveable Cities lists. Could it be the pleasing frissons between the old and new, the elegant and the engaged?

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS JULIAN MULLAN

DESTINATION | VIENNA

M

y only preconception about Vienna was that it was a place where two strangers could meet on a train and fall in love. When Before Sunrise first tugged at my pretentious teenage heart-strings back in 1995, I was ignorant of the history of the Habsburg empire.

Little did I know that Vienna was – is – oft regarded as fusty and uptight. “A sleeping beauty” is how Gabriela Steiner-Scharfetter, a former architect, unrepentant Sound of Music hater and cultural tour guide (wienkultours.com / pedalpower.at), describes Austria when it was geographically and intellectually annexed by its Communist neighbours, until the demise of the Berlin Wall in 1989.

Times change, but slowly, and so the birthplace of psychoanalysis trailblazers (Freud and Jung), blockbuster composers (Mozart, Beethoven, Strauss, Schubert, etc) and art heroes (Klimt, Schiele, Kokoschka) has been unfairly marred with the Mutter of imperialist hangovers.

What I find, though, is a city burbling with bright new ideas.

It’s no accident that 2017 marks the second Vienna Biennale (viennabiennale.org). It is time to shimmer again, and not with Habsburg-era bling. Subtitled “Robots. Work. Our Future”, this contemporary art, design and architecture jamboree running June 21 to October 1 will tap into the experimentalism that defined the city in the early 1900s and reinvigorate it afresh.

This progressive and permissive mood, explains Gabriela, is epitomised by the Nordbahnhof project – an affordable housing scheme in the second district (there are 23 districts in total) that keeps

Clockwise from top left, gallerist Nathalie Halgand; a glimpse of the Prater fairground; our editor Lucy White saddles up on a Pedal Power tour; artful cuisine at TIAN; its chef Paul Ivic, and a fancy cocktail at panoramic bar and restaurant Das Loft.

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newcastledesign.ie 0404 65000 by appointment only

Modern & Classic Handcrafted Cabinetry

DESTINATION | VIENNA

gentrification at bay via firm income thresholds and strict firsttime buyer allowances. By 2025 it will house 40,000 residents and 15,000 workers, with an emphasis on green spaces, pedestrianisation, community gardens, multigenerational apartments, organic and vegetarian cafés and childcare support facilities; a triumph of inclusive and holistic living.

This “unbuttoning” of Vienna is also apparent at Eugene Quinn’s Coffeehouse Conversations series (spaceandplace.at), which invites locals to fraternise with visitors over dinner and a menu of questions.

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Austrian restaurant, Café Ministerium, I am paired with a 26-year-old chemistry graduate and, over the course of two hours, breaded perch, kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancake) and questions including “what are the limits of your compassion?”, I learn that he listens to Mozart to de-stress, is “a Jewish atheist” and really hates redbrick architecture. The night is a roaring success for all and hugs are shared as freely as email addresses.

Similarly, over in trendy district seven, Hotel am Brillantengrund

The colossal Kunsthistorisches Museum, above, is easy to find. Right, hip-spot Skopik + Lohn and, opposite, Hotel am Brillantengrund’s trendsetting director Marvin Mangalino.

VIENNA ESSENTIALS EAT HOT TICKET Any selfrespecting aubergine worth its bonito flakes should expire at Mochi, a teeny-tiny Japanese restaurant that has locals frothing at the mouth. And quite right too; its dishes are delicious – from spicy salmon rolls to crispy prawns with yuzu truffle dressing – and its atmosphere winningly informal. Book ahead – or form an orderly queue outside.

(Praterstraße 15, +43 1 925 1380; mochi.at) FIERCE FINESSE It’s hard to decide what’s more interesting about TIAN – that it’s Austria’s one and only Michelin-starred vegetarian restaurant or that head chef Paul Ivic eats meat.

TIAN’s oeuvre is as much a feast for the eyes as the taste buds, its mind-boggling profusion of seemingly incongruous ingredients resulting in edible works of art. Prepare to have any preconceptions about vegetarian food smashed forever.

(Himmelpfortgasse 23, +43 1 890 4665; tian-restaurant.com) LIP-SMACKING Pull up a chair below artist Otto Zitko’s monochrome scribbled ceiling at Skopik + Lohn and watch the night unfold (it is open until 1am).

Lucky for Vienna that chef Horst Scheuer’s move to New York fell through seven years ago, resulting in what has become a stalwart of impeccable nouveau European cuisine adored by locals and in-the-know tourists alike. (Leopoldsgasse 17, +43 1 219 8977; skopikundlohn.at)

SLEEP TERRIFIC TRIO Three time’s a charm at RUBY Hotels, a Munichbased brand that launched in

Vienna with the RUBY Sofie, on Marxergasse, in 2014. The following year came the strikingly metallic RUBY Marie on Kaiserstraße, and then in April 2017, RUBY Lissi, excellently located on Laurenzerberg.

All have a “lean luxury” ethic involving bright, sleek guest rooms – resplendent with tablet PCs, Marshall amps and ownbrand toiletries – paid upfront, none of which have minibars, thus negating the need for the usual check in/out tedium. Organic breakfast buffets are served in hip public areas where reclaimed furniture reigns supreme. Rooms from €86. ruby-hotels.com FUN Interiors at the creative hub Hotel am Brillantengrund are a reeling-in-the-years mash-up of vintage pieces, from 1950s glass-top kidney tables to 1980s wallpaper. Its communal spaces are busy with chatting guests and Macbook-tapping locals, while its inner courtyard comes into its own during summer, when hotel residents and locals commune over fantastic Pinoy cuisine and house cocktails. Rooms from €77.

(Bandgasse 4, +43 1 5233662; brillantengrund.com) ENLIGHTENED For proof that we’re not entirely hurtling towards a far-right dystopia, see Magdas Hotel, whose two-thirds of staff are refugees, speaking 23 different languages. Students from the Academy for Fine Arts have produced artworks for each room and bees make honey on its rooftops. Magdas Salon (café, bar, restaurant, library, pop-up gallery) is the heart of the hotel – when guests aren’t sunning themselves, or watching outdoor movies, in the garden, natürlich. Rooms from €68.

(Laufbergergasse 12, +43 1 720 0288; magdas-hotel.at)

(see “Vienna Essentials”, opposite) follows a sharing-is-caring philosophy. What was once a Biedermeier-style former apartment property is now a 34-room, threestar listed hotel where bright young things hang out, many of whom work in nearby design and film production studios. As a result, guests feel like they’re chilling in a local’s (very cool) living room.

Brillantengrund’s young director, Marvin Mangalino – a twinkle-eyed Austro-Filipino former film editor – hit the flea markets for salvaged furniture out of financial necessity, not hipster-irony, and, boy, do the results work. No hotel in Vienna is more fun, more retro. And it’s not just style over substance either: Marvin’s mum manages the truly excellent Filipino kitchen, many of his staff are long-time friends and he also works with Helmut Lang design luminaries Wendy & Jim on BBUC (bbuc.co), a clothing line for cyclists. Of which there are many, for Vienna is a major bike town, with plentiful cycle lanes webbing across its inner and outer Ringstrasses.

Creative cross-pollination is also happening at Florian Kaps’ Supersense (the.supersense.com), aka the “home of analog delicacies”, that’s part café, part treasure trove AERLINGUS.COM |

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Clockwise from right, Sophort’s co-founders Gilbert Lechner and Thomas Preyer; exquisite vistas at Das Loft; Habsburg architecture at its best, and Florian Kaps, who rescued Vienna’s defunct Polaroid factory in 2008 to start producing the world’s last remaining original format film (eu.impossible-project.com) – and now runs Supersense, an analogue concept store.

SMART TIP

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by Thomas Preyer and Gilbert Lechner. I join their Classic Vienna tour, where our guide Teresa takes us on a leisurely south-tonorth tour from Karlskirche to Sigmund Freud Park via the Albertina Museum (don’t miss Egon Schiele’s graphic works running until June 18; albertina. at) and other impossibly grand landmarks: Hofburg Palace, Imperial Treasury, Natural History Museum and Parliament.

After our camera tutorial, the pressure to deliver eight perfect photos is real. Halfway into our

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of vintage and instant cameras, a letterpress printer, arts and crafts. There’s even a recording studio where you can press your own vinyl – as did the Grammy award-winning Gregory Porter recently. I, though, have my collodion, or wet-plate, portrait taken by Zoltán Janota, who, by day, has a very important job at the United Nations and by night is a photographic sorcerer. This form of instant photography dates back to the 1850s and I’m keen to present myself as a bygone circus artiste through the lens of his colossal wooden camera and on to an iridescent glass tile. In the dark room, the air is thick with anticipation as my top-hatted alter ego emerges from the developing tray as if from another era. I am thrilled – a far finer souvenir than chocolate Mozart balls.

It’s no surprise that the Supersense staff are pals with Sophort (sophort.com), a Polaroid walking tour company founded

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Works by Simon Mullan at the Galerie Nathalie Halgand, left, and below, peace and strudels at the venerable Café Sperl.

two-hour tour, however, our group is more decisive and clicking away like it’s 1983.

But it’s back to the future at Galerie Nathalie Halgand (galeriehalgand.com), south-west of the MuseumsQuartier, which further demonstrates the city’s appetite for fresh art talent. The gallery opened in 2016 and has already won acclaim with its ambitious exhibits that push the boundaries of the traditional white cube. It is a welcome, small-scale entry to the more established modern art scene, such as 21er Haus (21erhaus.at) and Kunst Haus Wien (kunsthauswien.com).

Sometimes, though, following tradition is a must, and the elegant Café Sperl (cafesperl.at) is the perfect spot for the obligatory apple strudel. Located in the sixth district, Sperl dates back to the 1880s – and has appeared in Before Sunrise and a scene between Michael Fassbender and Viggo Mortensen in the Jung/Freud biopic A Dangerous Method. No soggy - or spanked - bottoms here, only firm yet flaky pastry, brown sugar and piquant apple, against a mellow backdrop of cerebral young locals scratching silently into their notebooks or elders chatting quietly in their favourite booths.

If Vienna is the World’s Most Liveable City then it could easily be the World’s Most Visitable City.

It is full of surprises, making it impossible not to depart without Leonard Cohen’s refrain waltzing in one’s ears: “Oh, I want you, I want you, I want you ... I’ll never forget you, you know ...”

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to VIENNA daily.

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10

BEST ISLANDS

Daragh Reddin finds fun and sunshine – and a bit of adventure – in island holidays.

f reality shows like Survivor and anything with Bear Grylls in the title are to be believed, then islands are some of the most uninviting and treacherous places on Earth and life is one long endurance test. But forget racing through snake-ridden mangrove swamps, baking in tropical heat and subsisting on raw pilchards – island getaways can be a wholly agreeable affair, regardless of whether your preference is for abseiling down a serrated cliff face or sipping a cocktail in a shady beach bar as The Piña Colada Song wafts from the jukebox.

And while beaches – be it the noisy, crowded type on a Spanish island or a secluded cove somewhere in the Bay of Naples – might be top of the list for most holiday-makers, there’s much more to island getaways than simply sun-worshipping and watersports.

Whether rambling along a shady hiking trail through the forests of Porquerolles, exploring the wilderness at the summit of Mount Etna, following in the footsteps of your literary heroes in Key West, or photographing the endemic species in California’s Channel Islands, there’s an island out there with your name on it.

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MARTHA’S VINEYARD This moneyed island retreat, located ten kilometres off the southern coast of Cape Cod in Massachusetts, has long been synonymous with the Kennedy clan who holidayed here for generations. Despite its reputation for affluence, it’s actually an easy-going spot, especially in the tourist towns of Edgartown and Oak Bluffs where excellent seafood restaurants, nautical-themed homeware stores, gourmet cafés and fish markets are welcoming to presidents and paupers alike. For romantic views try Gay Head Cliffs or take in the sunset at Menemsha Beach.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston twice daily and from Shannon daily.

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THE ARAN ISLANDS The Aran Islands, Ireland’s most feted archipelago, stand like sentries at the mouth of Galway Bay on the country’s west coast and are a must-see for travellers navigating the Wild Atlantic Way. Inis Mór, the largest of its three isles, is easily accessed by ferry and, with its otherworldly karst limestone terrain, will cast a spell on the most cynical visitor.

Few vistas on earth can match that of Dún Aonghasa, a prehistoric stone fort perched atop a sheer cliff face – with the Atlantic Ocean rolling some 100 metres below.

BAY OF NAPLES Just a short ferry trip from Naples, Ischia has enjoyed considerable attention recently after novelist Elena Ferrante gave it a supporting role in her acclaimed “Neapolitan novels”. Visitors are likely to be as smitten as narrator Lenù with the island’s unspoilt beaches, while views of the Bay of Naples will reward those who trek to the top of Mount Epomeo. Neighbouring island Capri, which has been a playground for VIPs from Tiberius to Tom Cruise, needs no introduction; but to escape the tourist hustle try the small island of Procida which is equally bewitching.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Naples daily.

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SICILY

MATTHEW THOMPSON

The largest island in the Mediterranean offers a grab bag of architectural and historical gems, from Greek temples, to Norman-era churches and exquisite “Sicilian Baroque” cathedrals and palazzi.

The cities of Palermo and Syracuse are the best places to take in the island’s rich history, while Mount Etna, the largest active volcano in Europe, affords sublime

views. And on the Aeolian Islands, a volcanic archipelago just north of Sicily, an otherwise rock-bound coastline, is peppered with seductive beaches.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Catania twice per week.

5 CHANNEL ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA An eight-strong archipelago in the Pacific, Channel Islands are a geological wonder off the southern Californian coast that have captivated boffins for centuries.

Having formed 14 million years ago when tectonic plates collided, the area boasts so many unique species of flora and fauna it’s been dubbed North America’s answer to the Galápagos. Five of its islands make up a national park whose waters accommodate whales, sea lions and elephant seals – as well as fortunate kayakers and divers who come to marvel at the spectacle.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.

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MALLORCA Perhaps the most child-friendly of the Balearic Islands, Mallorca’s welcoming, laidback vibe and shallow Blue Flag beaches mean it’s always a hit with harried parents, but there’s plenty for kid-free visitors to take in too. Unlike naughty neighbour Magaluf, capital Palma is a surprisingly cosmopolitan affair, with inviting tapas bars, sun-kissed squares, sophisticated art galleries and a must-see Gothic cathedral.

A short taxi ride will take visitors to Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró, a shrine to the Modernist master who lived on the island for almost three decades.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Palma daily, and three times per week from Cork.

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8 DALMATIAN COAST

ISLE OF ARRAN Perhaps because it ticks every single box on the “stereotypically Scottish” checklist, Arran, the largest island in the Firth of Clyde, has been dubbed “Scotland in miniature”. With its patchwork of sheep-dotted hills and glens in the south and mountainous north, Arran really does feel like Alba in microcosm. Hikers, cyclists, anglers and incorrigible romantics all throng the island to enjoy its unsullied charms – and, of course, a dram or two from its excellent eponymous distillery.

Aer Lingus flies Dublin to Glasgow five times per day, and from Cork five times per week.

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Croatia’s coastline is home to a magnificent cluster of islands whose geology and personality are almost as varied as those of Greece. Hvar is one of the Adriatic’s trendiest islands; its eponymous town, flecked with chic cocktail bars, is ideal for hobnobbing with boat-owning bon vivants, while the vast lavender fields of its interior seem to perfume the air for the benefit of hikers. For those who want to escape the social fray, Dalmatia’s most southerly island, Mljet, a national park comprising almost entirely evergreen forest, is a recluse’s paradise.

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SMART EDIT | ISLAND LIFE

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KEY WEST This island city, at the western tip of the Florida Keys, is a celebrated bohemian bolthole and has welcomed visitors from playwright Tennessee Williams to poet Elizabeth Bishop. However, its most famous long-term resident was Ernest Hemingway who found this sultry spot, less than 150 kilometres north of Cuba, particularly conducive to engaging in his two favourite pastimes: boozing and boating. Tourists still flock here today for similar reasons, taking advantage of a lively bar scene (particularly around Old Town’s Duval Street) and a rich maritime culture.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Miami three times per week from September 1, and to Orlando four times per week.

PORQUEROLLES Measuring just seven kilometres by three kilometres, this little-known French island in the gulf of Hyères is certainly compact.

But make no mistake, it gives its glamorous neighbours Monaco and St Tropez on the Côte d’Azur a run for their money when it comes to dazzling white beaches and pellucid waters. As well as offering fine snorkelling and sailing opportunities, Porquerolles somehow finds space to accommodate a national park, several vineyards and almost 40 kilometres of footpath weaving through picture-perfect pine forests.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Nice ten times per week.

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Avoca Suffolk Street CafĂŠ, Food Market & Store in Dublin City Centre

THE NEW BOHEMIAN

Lisbon has been quietly ascending the world’s hip-lists for a while now – but how is it faring in these fickle times?

WORDS ROISIN AGNEW PHOTOGRAPHS MARK DUGGAN

DESTINATION | LISBON

T Opening pages, nighttime at the LX Factory and, by day, Max Janice and Nicole Krol. Top, somewhere, over the rainbow ... and, above, Ivete Secretes of Crew Hassan.

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he phrase one hears most often repeated in relation to Lisbon is that it’s the “new Berlin”. It’s shorthand that perfectly captures an image of a young and openminded city with a vibrant nightlife and a slightly gritty underbelly. And as much as one would want to deny the epithet – and the potential woes the comparison brings with it – it’s undeniable that Lisbon feels like the place to be right now.

Where other European cities might have become increasingly exclusionary and expensive, Lisbon feels like it has bucked the trend. Even while it undergoes a transformation that sees it at the top of every travel must-see list of 2017 – and on the receiving end of an increasing amount of investment from tech startups – Lisbon continues to be a place profoundly self-aware and connected to its own history as well as forwardthinking. From every restaurant owner to graphic designer, the question of what kind of city Lisbon wants to become has been studied and pored over.

A visit to the MAAT (maat.pt) in early April – the splendid wave-like museum of art, architecture and technology – revealed an exhibition entitled Utopia/ Dystopia, whose central concern is the question of how a contemporary city should be. How do

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DESTINATION | LISBON

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we differentiate between utopias and dystopias?

What does a contemporary urban utopia look like?

Lisbon could have the answer.

Situated facing the Tagus River on what are termed the “seven hills” of Lisbon is a city that celebrates its proximity to the sea at every opportunity. Among its many historical identities is the great nation of navigators and explorers, from Vasco de Gama to the semi-loathed (because he worked for the Spanish) Ferdinand Magellan. Every insignificant bend in the road or negligible laneway seems purposely designed to give you a view that stops you dead in your tracks.

In spirit and appearances it feels like a combination of Vienna (see page 62) and Istanbul, its working port and docklands offsetting the Pombaline and Manueline architecture everywhere, a visual contrast symbolic of its identity caught between the past and the future, between grandeur and grime.

Fanning out from the central imposing square on the sea, Praça do Comercio (a carpark until the 1990s), Lisbon is a mass of white limestone and blue azulejo tiled facades that reflect its plentiful sunlight, making it literally shine for the 220 days of sun it experiences yearly. The city is taken-in best from its many, many viewpoints, its miradouros, which offer dazzling panoramas of the city sprawl as it stretches

past the Ponte 25 Abril and out to sea. Among the best views; those of, and from, the Castelo de Såo Jorge (castelodesaojorge.pt/en), which is visible from everywhere hovering above the city; the Miradouro de Graça in the characterful neighbourhood of Graça and the locals’ pungent favourite, Santa Catarina.

With a smallish population of almost two and a half million inhabitants, the city feels incredibly manageable, as though it will open up to you even in the space of a short visit. Everyone’s near-perfect English helps in that regard, as does its excellent public transport system, its beers priced from as low as 60c, and its plentiful and beautiful public parks and squares.

But what has really transformed Lisbon into an urban sanctuary is its unique brand of civicmindedness. Years of isolation under the Salazar regime followed by a period of austerity since 2008 have led to the city knowing its fair share of hardship.

Opposite, Lisbon’s tiles are pretty as a picture. Top left, the undulating MAAK, an exhibition centre with fine views across the Tagus, and, above left, vintage trams squeeze their way through Lisbon’s narrow – and often super-steep – streets. Above right, a lofty LX Factory mural.

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Clockwise from left and top left, social life at the LX Factory; streetside mirth from Naush Kanji, who’s a long way from home – Santa Catarina, Brazil, where he owns the Verride Hotel. Next page, rooftop ambience at LX Factory.

But rather than adapting via a mercenary selling-out, Lisbon has survived through a remarkable fusion of resourcefulness and dynamism.

Rent caps and controls prevent old shops in its historic Baixa neighbourhood from being taken over by high-street brands. The iconic old trams that crisscross from Belém to Alfama are used by locals and haven’t been transformed into a tourist gimmick. In historically deprived neighbourhoods such as Intendente and Anjos, a combination of tax incentives and rent subsidies implemented in order to revitalise the areas has contributed to a flourish of associaçoes cultural (cultural associations). They offer members a space to hang out, eat a good meal on a donation basis and attend gigs at a reduced rate. Making use of unusual buildings for parties is far from discouraged: one nightclub, Ministerium (ministerium.pt), is situated right next to government ministries, while Village Underground (vulisboa. com) is at the back of the city-owned tram depot.

The benefits of this type of civic-mindedness are felt by Lisboetas mainly, but it’s central to the allure Lisbon has for visitors and why it has become the newest bohemian capital of Europe. It fosters an environment where not having money and living well are not mutually exclusive. In spite of fears that, like 86 |

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Berlin, it will pay a price for its newfound popularity, there’s reason to believe that Lisbon is progressive enough to take a stand and resist disastrous change.

The Portuguese word saudade has no direct equivalent in English, but it describes a particular quality of melancholic nostalgia that guidebooks and tours claim is characteristic of Lisbon. For the city’s great poet, Fernando Pessoa, to contemplate the past too intently was “to be today’s living corpse of what yesterday was lived”.

To me Lisbon exists in a contemplation of horizons – the sea, the city, the future. Somewhere in between its nostalgia-filled reverence and enterprising soul, exists a city that has captured the mood of the moment and has got as close as it gets, for me at least, to a modern-day utopia.

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LISBON ESSENTIALS SLEEP LOCATION, LOCATION Hotel Alma Lusa is ideal for exploring.

In the heart of Chiado, just behind the busy Praça do Comercio, it’s tucked away in the surprisingly peaceful Praça do Município. Part of a stunning row of buildings, Alma Lusa is decorated with a demure style and occasional rustic flare. Beautiful views onto the square. Rooms from €190.

(Praça do Município 21, +351 21 269 7440; almalusahotels.com) SEASIDE Situated in Belém, the Tagus-facing neighbourhood that hosts many of Lisbon’s greatest attractions, the Altis Belém Hotel & Spa allows you to appreciate truly the importance of the sea in Lisbon life. Overlooking the marina, the hotel is perfect for an indulgent break all about wellbeing and kicking back. The sea views are exceptional. (Doca do Bom Sucesso, Belem, +351 21 040 0200; designhotels.com)

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PALATIAL In Lisbon, you stumble upon secret gardens and palaces continually as you climb up steep paths or gaze from hilltops.

Torel Palace is just such a place, satisfying the desire to live in a half-hidden mansion surrounded by lush gardens in the middle of central Lisbon. Beautifully restored and filled to the brim with antiques, this is a palatial hiding-place.

Rooms from €199. (Rua Câmara Pestana 23, +351 21 829 0810; torelpalace.com)

UNUSUAL The Chines Clandestino is a restaurant off Rossio Square, its entrance identifiable by its Chinese decorations. Take a seat at what is essentially the family’s kitchen table and allow the oddness to wash over you. It has got a legendary reputation for serving up “genuinely Chinese” dishes depending on what and how you order. A great example of Lisbon’s many diverse cuisines.

(2nd Floor, Rua do Benformoso 59)

EAT

CLASSIC Hands down the most authentic of the city’s fish restaurants, queues gather round the block outside Cervejaria Ramiro every evening. Spreading over three floors across from the increasingly happening Intendente Square, the fish restaurant does unbelievably delicious seafood in an atmosphere of chaos and spectacle. Queue moves fast enough. (Avenida Almirante Reis 1, +351 21 885 1024)

LIKE A LOCAL Situated near the Miradouro, the Botequim da Graça was owned by famous poet Natalia Correia and was known as an artist hang-out in the 1970s.

It has retained its intimate tavernlike atmosphere and serves up excellent folhadas and occasional poetry nights. Good for veggies, bad if you don’t like smoky environments. (Largo Graça 79, +351 21 888 8511)

SMART TIPS ROOFTOP BARS Lisboetas love a good view with a drink. Park in Bairro Alto is an upscale-ish bar at the top of a parking lot with a view of Lisbon like nowhere else.

The Rio Maravilha (riomaravilha.pt) in LX Factory – a group of warehouses and buildings restored and turned into restaurants, shops, cafés, design studios and offices – is positioned under the Ponte 25 Abril with an interesting view of the boats and city beyond.

Le Chat (lechatlisboa.com) is an elegant bar in arguably Lisbon’s nicest neighbourhood, Santos, in a glass cube with a great view on the docks.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LISBON ten times per week.

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ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

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For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person.

• • • •

AWARD WINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES

Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: info@jfp.ie

www.jfp.ie

www.facebook.com/Johnniefoxspub

famed as

SHUTTLE BUS Leaves the city Centre every evening and returns after last orders.

Please call 01-8221122 or 01-2955647 to book your seat.

RISE ABOVE IT AT THE HIGHEST PUB IN IRELAND Live entertainment nightly

DESTINATION | DUBROVNIK

DELECTABLE

k i n v o r b Du The glimmering city on the Adriatic is a worldrenowned destination – rich in sun, sea, sand and heart-stopping views, it’s easy to see why.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS

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Sunshine city, as seen from the city walls.

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DESTINATION | DUBROVNIK

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1 Gleaming streetscapes – the main strip, Stradun, reflects light beautifully.

2 Port of call – done for the day, boats bob gently as heat recedes, making for balmy evening strolls around the harbour.

2

3 Gorgeous gastronomy – one of the city's most impressive settings for dinner is on the terrace at swish Restaurant 360°.

4 The view from above – a sunny vista over the Old Town and the island of Lokrum, as seen from the Imperial Fortress.

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ENJOY THE BEST OF DUBLIN

Traditional Irish Bars,

... BEFORE AND AFTER DARK

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GREAT MUSIC GREAT FOOD GREAT CRAIC GREAT STAY Livets

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THE BEST OF DUBLIN ON YOUR DOORSTEP

LIVE TRADITIONAL MUSIC EVERY DAY & NIGHT

MULTI-AWARD WINNING RESTAURANT & BAR FOOD

58 -59 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (0)1 6711 822 email: info@gogartys.ie VISIT WWW.GOGARTYS.IE FOR ACCOMMODATION AND EVENTS

DESTINATION | DUBROVNIK

Forest green, sky blue and warm terracotta, plenty of soothinglyhued views to take in late afternoon on the City Walls.

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5 6 7

5 Pier reviewed – life slows down on the waterfront.

*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

6 Canny canoodling – rent a kayak on Lokrum Island and go coastal.

7 Bird’seye views – overlooking the buzzing Café Buza.

8 Željko Šimic´ always has “lots of time” put aside for fishing on Lokrum Island.

8

Fly return to Dubrovnik this summer for 20,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.

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DESTINATION | DUBROVNIK

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9 Birds of a feather – breeder Maria Pelagic takes her menagerie of exotic birds to the Old Town, daily, to see and be seen.

10 Lovely view – lovebirds basking in the late afternoon sun on the Buza Café terrace.

11 Mirror, mirror – reflective street furniture creates illusory scenes at the city's Pile gate.

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DESTINATION | DUBROVNIK

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SLEEP BOUTIQUE The quaintly bijou St Joseph’s is a thoughtfully restored 16th-century building just off Stradun, the main strip in the Old Town. The sixbedroom hotel has a unique character, its rooms boasting soft, muted tones, cool marble bathrooms, slickly hidden kitchenettes and beautiful beamed ceilings. There’s also a very photogenic breakfast served each morning, while friendly and helpful staff complete the pretty picture. Rooms from €363.

(Ul Svetog Josipa 3, +385 20 432 089; stjosephs.hr)

12 Cocktail hour – glory in the marvellous mojitos on offer at the luxurious Villa Dubrovnik.

BUDGET Run by bona fide interesting character, ex-Londoner Marc van Bloemen, Karmen Apartments, near the port, are eclectically furnished and swaddled in charm. The cosy dwellings come fully equipped with kitchens, Wi-Fi and anything else a relaxed stay might require. The welcome, great value and central location make these apartments a canny choice for the budget traveller, or for those who are simply looking for something a bit different. Rooms from €120. (Bandureva 1, +385 20 323 433; karmendu.com)

13 Pretty in pink – gloriously

dramatic sunsets give a rosy glow to the harbour.

14 Puppy power – playful pooches

thrive in a city that loves its pets.

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LUXE With designer clad staff and lots of white, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stumbled in to a very highend sanatorium at Villa Dubrovnik.

However, with its setting – nestled into striking cliffs just outside the city, among pine, orange, and lemon trees and surrounded by gardens of bougainvillea and overlooking the turquoise waters of the Adriatic and

the Old Town – that perception soon recedes. Super luxurious and bearing all the attention to detail a five-star should. Rooms from €625 for two nights. (Vlaha Bukovca 6, +385 20 500 300; villa-dubrovnik.hr)

SMART TIPS Currency crises can be averted through familiarisation with the Croatian Kuna – €10 often hovers around the 75kn mark. There is typically no need to purchase the currency in advance as withdrawing cash at one of the city’s many ATMs usually incurs a very minimal charge.

In high summer, the Old Town can become a little thronged, so it’s probably better to spend your daytime living it up on the beach, swimming in the ocean or exploring the equally compelling hinterland and islands.

Getting a taxi to the Old Town from the airport will typically cost between the equivalent of €35-€40; better value is a shuttle bus, the tickets of which (approx €10 return) can be purchased from the Atlas counter in the airport Arrivals hall.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to DUBROVNIK six times per week.

Saturday, September 2nd 2017 3 Arena BUY ONLINE: www.ticketmaster.ie I BY PHONE: 0818 719 300 I IN PERSON: TICKETMASTER OUTLETS NATIONWIDE I TICKETS: €44.05, €60.45, €65.45 TELEPHONE & INTERNET BOOKINGS SUBJECT TO 12.5% (MAX €6.85 PER TICKET) I AGENTS MAX €3.30 PER TICKET I €1 VENUE FACILITY FEE PER TICKET

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Best British 5SUMMER BREAKS Melanie Mullan carries on glamping.

HEREFORD

MAJESTIC BUS

Nestled in the Herefordshire countryside, this converted bus is surrounded by impressive mountain views. The handcrafted wooden interiors contain a double bed, as well as a couch that can be transformed into an extra double sleeper in the evening if necessary. Solar panels power the electricity

for lights and sockets, while outside there is an area where an additional four guests can pitch their tent. The nearby Hay-onWye offers hours of downtime fun in second-hand bookshops and galleries, while those who prefer the great outdoors can head to Wye Valley for a choice of canoe trips or mountain-

biking expeditions. Spend your evenings on the decked area of the Majestic Bus, cooking dinner in the open-air fire-pit, while drinking in the lovely views and perhaps a glass of your choice of something chilled. The bus starts at ÂŁ90 per night based on two people sharing. majesticbus.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Birmingham four times daily.

ISLE OF WIGHT

THE TRIBECA

Transforming caravans to give the sense of a New York boutique hotel, The TriBeCa on the Isle of Wight features children’s rooms with timber-effect walls and large windows to create a jungle feel. Located overlooking Whitecliff Bay, the campsite has its own swimming pool and is within walking distance of the beach,

offering plenty to keep families entertained.

Meanwhile, if you would prefer to relax indoors, enjoy a soak in the bath with a movie on the hidden TV while kids are off exploring. Dab hands in the kitchen will enjoy fully equipped cooking stations, while nearby restaurants cater to those who would like a night or two away

from the hot stove. Caravans start at £871 for a seven-night stay. awayresorts.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to London (Heathrow and Gatwick) 29 times per day.

YORKSHIRE

SWINTON BIVOUAC

Perched on a hilltop at the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, Swinton Bivouac offers eight yurts for lovers of the great outdoors. While beds are cosy and comfy, the yurts don’t have electricity, so bring a torch, while shower facilities are shared. Fill up on breakfast at the on-site café before venturing on your way with a picnic basket they have prepared for you. The region offers a huge variety of outdoors activities, including horse riding and fly fishing – and make sure to pack your hiking boots, as a jaunt through the dales is a must. Yurts start at £135 per night and sleep up to four people. i-escape.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Leeds Bradford 13 times per week.

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SMART EDIT | GLAMPING

CORNWALL

RAIL HOLIDAY

These thoughtfully restored train carriages in Cornwall, aptly located beside the main national railway line, offer charming accommodation in two locations. The family business takes pride in running sustainable holiday experiences and even offers discounts for those who ditch the car and arrive by train. Both sites are a short distance from a beach where surfing lessons or long strolls over vast dunes are options. If the sand isn’t for you, grab the booklet in your carriage and head on over to the nearby Coldgear Plantation for some wildlife spotting. Nice touch: each kitchen-equipped carriage contains locally sourced supplies such as Cornish biscuits, milk and cider to keep you going.

Rail Holiday starts from £545 for three nights. railholiday.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newquay daily, and from Cork twice per week.

SCOTLAND

ECOPOD

Out on the west coast of Scotland, a short drive from the village of Appin, Ecopod domes boast panoramic views across Loch Laich to Castle Stalker and its surrounding wilderness. The retreat consists of two open-plan boutique pods, with plans for a third, each accommodating two people and both with their own handmade, Japanese cedar hot tub. Fully equipped with cooking essentials too, the pods contain all you might need to disconnect from the chatter of modern life for a few days – however, for those not fully committed to switching off, there’s TV and Wi-Fi too.

The nearby Old Inn offers cosy, gastropub cooking that is well-enhanced by an accompanying pint, or two.

Domes start at £550 for a minimum, three-night stay. domesweetdome.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Glasgow five times per day.

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DESTINATION | PULA

48 HOURS IN

PULA

Isabel Putinja explores this seaside city with a Roman past that’s on the tip of Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula.

Don't miss . .

Drink at . .

LANDMARK The city’s best-known landmark is its first-century Roman amphitheatre, the sixth largest in the world and the best preserved. Once the stage for battles between Roman gladiators, this is a popular summer concert venue and the setting for the Pula Film Festival each July. (Scalierova 30, +385 52 219 028; ami-pula.hr)

LITERARY Caffe Uliks (Ulysses) pays homage to James Joyce, who taught English here at the turn of the century and is immortalised with a statue on the café’s patio and his own cocktail. This cosy Art Nouveau-style pub also has an impressive selection of international whiskeys. (Trg Portarata 1, +385 52 219 158)

HISTORIC The handsome square known as the Forum was once the centre of the city’s cultural and political life. Today the only historic building remaining is the second-century Temple of Augustus with Corinthian columns supporting its portico. This is Croatia’s oldest preserved building and houses a small sculpture museum.

RETRO Cvajner is the most popular of the al fresco cafés overlooking the Temple of Augustus and town hall on the Forum, Pula’s most beautiful square.

The artsy interior features cosy, antique sofas and doubles as a gallery space showcasing work by local artists. (Forum 2, +385 52 52 216 502)

LOCAL COLOUR The city’s busy farmers market takes place each morning under the shade of chestnut trees next to the historic market building dating back to 1903. The fish market is located downstairs while the cafés on the upper level are where locals catch up over coffee. (Narodni trg 9, +385 52 218 122; trznica-pula.hr)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PULA three times per week.

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VINO Wine enthusiasts can sample some of the best Croatian wine at Tappo Wine & Food. Try the Istrian malvazija along with local speciality produce, such as pršut (cured ham), goats cheese, and extra virgin olive oil. (Istarska 38, +385 52 606 606)

Clockwise from top, sun sets over the Roman amphitheatre; wine and meat – a simple, yet enticing, proposal at Tappo; whiskey o’clock at Caffe Uliks, and the pleasingly crumbly Temple of Augustus.

Sleep at . .

CHIC Just steps away from the Roman amphitheatre, Hotel Amfiteatar is the best place to stay in the centre of town.

This three-star is done up in a sleek, contemporary style, with some of the spacious guest rooms commanding sea views. Double rooms from €111.

(Amfiteatarska 6, +385 52 375 600; hotelamfiteatar.com) BOUTIQUE A short drive away from the city, the beachside Hotel Valsabbion, left, offers luxurious, modern guest rooms with tasteful wood and stone accents, a beach and lounge area, and swimming pool. Some rooms include private terraces or balconies with stunning sea views, while the penthouse has its own pool. Double rooms from €119. (Pješcana Uvala IX/26, +385 52 218 033; valsabbion.hr) SEASIDE Located on the Punta Verudela peninsula, the sea-facing Park Plaza Histria, above right, is a large, resort-like four-star hotel with three restaurants, four bars, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a wellness centre with a spa, gym and saunas, and easy access to the beach.

Double rooms from €127. (Verudella 17, +385 52 590 000; arenaturist.com)

Clockwise from above, the illustrious bass graces most Istrian menus, the exterior of Hotel Amfiteatar – and the real thing in the background, and, a colourful medley of delicious fresh seafood.

Eat at . .

POPULAR Konoba Boccaporta serves generous portions of fresh pasta, local fish and meat dishes, along with homemade bread and excellent, locally-produced wine and olive oil.

The homestyle cuisine, rustic setting and excellent value for money make this a solid favourite with locals.

(Dolinka 18, +385 52 506 266; konoba-boccaporta.com) GOURMET Describing his cuisine as “Mediterranean with a twist”, celebrity chef Deniz Zembo offers a fine dining experience at Amfiteatar. The innovative, gastronomic tasting menus of Instagrammable dishes feature seasonal ingredients used in creative ways, and vegetarian and vegan options – rare in meat-loving Croatia.

(Amfiteatarska 6, +385 52 375 600; hotelamfiteatar.com) HOMESTYLE Family-run Trattoria Vodnjanka is a simple eatery with a menu of traditional Istrian dishes such as maneštra vegetable stew, fresh fuži pasta with truffles, and brodetto fish stew. The menu is meat and fish heavy, but staff are happy to suggest off-menu, vegetarian-friendly options. (Ul. Dinka Vitezica 4, +385 52 210 655)

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NEW GRADE A OFFICE DEVELOPMENT IN A WORLD CLASS BUSINESS CAMPUS

180k

3

4

LUAS

180,000 sq ft of modern flexible floor space

Minutes travel time to M50 motorway and 25 minutes to Dublin Airport

High specification Grade A office buildings

The Red Line LUAS provides direct links from Waterside to the City Centre

LEED Gold Targeted Accreditation

TO LET 6, 7 & 8 WATERSIDE 180,000 sq ft of Grade A office space in three new landmark buildings with generous car parking, a new restaurant facility and beautifully landscaped common areas in a proven location which is already home to leading international occupiers such as SAP, Fidelity, United Drug, Shire, Abbott, Adobe, JTI, Glanbia, AbbVie, Pfizer, Nestle, UPS, Canon, Sanofi, Roche, BT, Unilever, Birds Eye, Honda, Lufthansa and Sony.

www.watersidecitywest.com Joint Agents:

PSRA: 002273

PSRA: 002702

Deirdre Costello T: +353 (0)1 673 1600 deirdre.costello@eu.jll.com

Keith O’Neill T: +353 (0)1 661 1233 keith.oneill@bnpparibas.com

A Joint Development By:

ON BUSINESS

Making travel work for you

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MANHATTAN EDIT Joseph Seery’s in-the-know highlights from the city that never sleeps.

A DAY IN THE LIFE Body&Soul’s Avril Stanley takes us behind the velvet rope of her hugely successful music festival.

CHARLOTTE STREET HOTEL, LONDON Melanie Morris checks into the Bloomsbury bolthole.

SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Restoration Yard’s Amanda Pratt shares her words of working wisdom.

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CHILLED Mix a little bit of New England with a charming West Village backstreet and you get Pearl Oyster Bar, a cosy neighbourhood joint with white walls and a nautical theme that will feel instantly familiar. Opened by Rebecca Charles, this “upscale oyster shack” celebrates its 20th year in business in 2017.

(18 Cornelia Street, +1 212 691 8211; pearloysterbar.com)

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HOTIN THECITY Extend your business trip to New York this summer – it is arguably the best time to visit, says native Joseph Seery.

SECRET A hidden patio for those balmy summer nights.

Hudson Clearwater looks like a dilapidated storefront but, turning right down Morton Street, there is a single green door at the side of the building.

The place itself has a warm, rustic vibe with exposed brick.

Try the seared Long Island Duck Breast at $31.

(447 Hudson Street, +1 212 989 3255; hudsonclearwater.com)

MELISSA HOM

f you have to dash around Manhattan in taxis for business meetings or even just for pleasure, June is the month to do it. The temperature hasn’t quite reached the sweltering peak levels of August, and visitors can eat pied-à-terre and watch the world go by under blue skies. Sunset happens well after 8pm, making it a good time to be outdoors for Shakespeare in the Park (free; publictheater.org), the 1920s-inspired Jazz Age Lawn Party on Governor’s Island (June 10-11 and August 26-27; jazzagelawnparty.com) and, on the last weekend of June, Fifth Avenue is a blaze of colour for Gay Pride (nycpride.org).

For those who didn’t get a ticket for Hamilton before ticket prices skyrocketed, there are still plenty of big, splashy Broadway musicals for theatre loving blow-ins. Among them: Sunset Boulevard starring Glenn Close at the Palace (until June 25; sunsetboulevardthemusical. com), Hello, Dolly! with Bette Midler at the Shubert Theatre (until January 14; broadway.com), the electro-pop opera Natasha, Pierre & the Great Comet of 1812 at the Imperial Theatre (until September 3; greatcometbroadway.com) and War Paint with legends Patti LuPone and Christine Ebersole at the Nederlander Theatre (until September 3; warpaintmusical.com); they play Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden, staunch rivals who founded their own beauty companies in an era when women entrepreneurs were rare.

An added bonus: many New Yorkers leave the city even during these early summer weekends, leaving visitors to get better theatre seats, restaurant tables and, for those who drive, parking spaces. In the first flush of summer, New York thrives.

NOUVELLE A few steps from opera at the Lincoln Center to the west and Central Park to the east, Boulud Sud, left, is a modern destination for a light supper that falls somewhere between business and pleasure. Try chef Daniel Boulud’s signature Grapefruit Givre ($15) filled with sorbet and garnished with shredded halva. (20 W 64th Street, +212 595 1313; bouludsud.com)

THE SMART LIST » FOOD HALL Over the last 15 years, the indoor redbrick Chelsea Market has come to represent the cultural and commercial renaissance of the Meatpacking district.

A couple of blocks from the Hudson River and the High Line, there are more than 35 food stands selling everything from sushi and wine to coffee and cheesecake. (759th Avenue, +1 212 652 2121; chelseamarket.com)

» MOVIES Opened in 2016 in the grand tradition of a 1920s movie theatre, The Metrograph cinema is a cultural centre on the edge of Chinatown. Founded and designed by Alexander Olch, it shows archive quality 35mm film and state-of-theart digital video. And you never know who will turn up. Recent speakers include Gena Rowlands and Peter Bogdanovich. (7 Ludlow Street, +1 212 660 0312; metrograph.com)

»PARADE

EVERYONE SHOULD SEE OR EVEN PARTICIPATE IN THE CONEY ISLAND MERMAID PARADE (JUNE 17) AT LEAST ONCE. IT’S A WILD, GLITZY AND OUTLANDISH AFFAIR THAT SNAKES ITS WAY ALONG SURF AVENUE AND THE BOARDWALK.

» CONSTITUTIONAL Many Central Park tourists visit Sheep Meadow, the Great Lawn and Turtle Pond, but fewer people make it as far as the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Reservoir, featured in the 1976 movie Marathon Man. It’s a delightful path for a stroll (or run) and unrecognisable from the dilapidated path in that film.

(90th Street and Central Park West, +1 212 310 6600; centralparknyc.org)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin twice daily to JFK and daily to Newark, and from Shannon to JFK.

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COMPACT Perfect for the canny traveller who wants to keep expenses to a minimum, but still stay somewhere downtown and cool, Pod 39, right, in Midtown has eliminated all the nonessentials. The whitewashed rooms are rocket-sized and space age in style but this budget boutique hotel has all the sleek efficiency that New Yorkers thrive on.

Rooms from $220. (145 East 39th Street, +1 212 865 5700; thepodhotel.com)

SLEEP

CHRIS MOSIER

ELEGANT Just a few steps from Bryant Park where outdoor movies are shown in June, the Refinery Hotel, below, has a fashionable address and edge. A respectable distance from Times Square and Grand Central Station, live music at Winnie’s Jazz Bar welcomes guests. The rooftop bar has a view of the Empire State Building. Rooms from $485.

(63 West 38th Street, +1 646 664 0310; refineryhotelnewyork.com)

HIP Standing proud above the High Line railway-turned-park, The Standard, right, has become a distinctive landmark in the oncederelict Meatpacking district. It’s true: buff guests do sometimes flex their muscles in the full-length windows to the amusement (and shock) of tourists below. The Standard also has a German beer garden and rooftop discothèque. Rooms from $327.

(848 Washington Street, +1 212 645 4100; standardhotels.com)

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Touchdown The law firm with local knowledge has landed in America Eversheds, Ireland’s only full service international law firm, has combined with US firm Sutherland to become Eversheds Sutherland, extending our global reach to 61 offices in 29 countries.

An exciting combination that connects you with over 400 lawyers in six commercial centres in the US, all through a single point of contact here in the heart of Dublin.

For unrivalled client service that’s expertly positioned for access to Europe, UK, the US and beyond, contact: Alan Murphy Managing Partner +353 1 6644 289 alanmurphy@eversheds-sutherland.ie

eversheds-sutherland.ie Corporate Law Firm of the Year Business & Finance B2B Awards 2016 European Pensions Law Firm of the Year European Pensions Awards 2016 Public Sector Law Team of the Year Irish Law Awards 2016

Business

PLAY

VIEW High above Columbus Circle with a view all the way up Central Park West, bar/ restaurant Robert sits atop the Museum of Arts and Design. This is the place to bring a client if you want to make an impression. The elevator doors open and the music and floor-to-ceiling windows are cinemtic in ways that only New York can be.

(2 Columbus Circle, +1 212 299 7730; robertnyc.com) COMEDY Sometimes, it’s worth heading into the bustle of Times Square if there’s world-class comic

talent waiting for you amid the crowds. Carolines on Broadway is a rite-of-passage for many comedians on the cusp of stardom and remains a home-away-from-home for veteran comics. Louis CK, Jerry Seinfeld and Jon Stewart have all performed there. (1626 Broadway, +1 212 757 4100; carolines.com) VAUDEVILLE The recently renovated Beacon Theatre has played host to everyone from Ryan Adams to Bruce Springsteen. It’s a gilded tribute to the best of old, uptown New York. It is, after all, a regular host of Broadway’s Tony Awards and began life as a silent movie theatre in 1929 just before the Wall Street crash. (1224 Broadway, +1 212 465 6500; beacontheatre.com)

Tier members can earn up to 75 per cent extra Avios points on flights – see aerlingus.com/aerclub for details.

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MY FAVOURITE FESTIVALS …

A DAY IN THE LIFE

11am I wake up, whizz a smoothie and get going. My first meeting is with event control and security for an update on the night’s happenings. The festival is three days and nights of managing a small city of thousands of people who breathe, sleep, eat and party in the 120 hectares of Ballinlough’s 17th-century estate. It’s crucial that both our guests and the site are being managed with care and attention, as it’s the year-round home of the Nugent family. On the Saturday, I join the 2,000-plus people at the Body&Soul stage for the largest meditation gathering in Ireland. It’s a collective moment of calm and it grounds me for the festival. We do it to celebrate the Celtic tradition of summer solstice on which the festival is founded.

2.30pm Body&Soul has an elaborate layout of arenas, stages, nooks and crannies. I make my rounds – which, if calculated, would most likely make up a few hundred kilometres a day – taking in our ever-expanding mix of venues, theatrical interludes, informative workshops and immersive art installations. It’s an opportunity to get a sense of how people are responding and see if we need to make any tweaks for the following year.

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5pm I’ll steal away for a quiet moment in our Sanctuary and Immerse Spa Experience.

Radio and phone off for a half hour’s respite.

The very best therapists in Ireland come, year after year, to give people a chance to reconnect and balance themselves before launching back into the festivities and fun. I’ll also pop into the SoulKids area to see how the little Body&Soulers are soaking up the magic of the Walled Gardens, and try to do press interviews and briefings over a late lunch from one of the sustainable food vendors there, such as Food on Board.

8pm Around now I spend time greeting the bigger acts as they arrive onsite. I invite them into the Body&Soul family for the weekend and explain our values and ethos. Jenny Wren, our music booker, grabs me at some point to catch her must-see acts. They might be an international headliner, but are just as likely to be an up-and-coming act on one of the smaller stages. She has honed the festival soundscape to a fine art, booking gems that soon become game changers in the music scene.

5am When all the arenas are closed, the last thing I do is walk the campsite to make sure everyone is both enjoying and looking after themselves and our grounds. Somewhat exhausted, somewhat exhilarated and with bated breath for what might come tomorrow.

It could be a hurricane or a phenomenal live act – the key is to expect the unexpected, and take it in one’s stride!

EY

VENICE BIENNALE A biannual celebration of contemporary art that brings the world’s best and brightest to the beautiful streets of Venice.

The large-scale, transformative and provocative artworks on show are just the type of exhibits that inform our own curatorial policy. Until November 26; labiennale.org

KH RIS COWL

5.30am Just as dawn begins to break over Ballinlough I put my head down for a much needed rest. Once the night shift is done I sleep on-site in the castle grounds, never too far from the action in case something unexpected crops up.

RONNIE BLACK

This June 23-25, Body&Soul’s creative director Avril Stanley presents Lambchop, Sleaford Mods and Metronomy at Ballinlough Castle. Here’s a behindthe-tents insight. bodyandsoul.ie

LOVE INTERNATIONAL Set in the stunning surrounds of Tisno, Croatia, this is a mix of all-night parties and moments of relaxation in olive groves and secret islands. Just like Ballinlough, the landscape features natural amphitheatres in which to kick back and enjoy the music. From June 28 to July 5; loveinternationalfestival.com

LIGHTNING IN A BOTTLE Run by friends of mine in California, who really excel in the design and execution of festivals. They’re environmentally conscious with a wonderful ethos – and they know how to put on a really wicked show every May. lightninginabottle.org

A new way to find flexible office space to help your business grow.

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ACCESSORY For durable Bluetooth earphones with an impressive battery life, look no further than the new Creative Outlier Sports in-ear option. Weighing in at just 15 grams and boasting 11 hours of battery, this compact waterproof gadget stays in place with detachable ear tips so they are secure even when you’re dashing to the Departures gate. €69.99 from creative.com.

BUSINESS DRINKS Whether you want to woo clients or brainstorm over bar food, Craft London will get the creative juices flowing. Summing up modern British style, from the splashes of Scottish tweed uniforms to the locally sourced ingredients on the menu, the rooftop bar also gives a photogenic panorama of the city. (Peninsula Square, +44 20 8465 5910; craft-london.co.uk)

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TRAVEL HOT LIST

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EVENT More than 50,000 attendees from 200 countries are expected at Viva Technology from June 15-17, a tech industry rendezvous in Paris showcasing cutting-edge products and offering opportunities for start-ups to rub shoulders with international investors. This year’s impressive line-up of speakers includes Ireland’s own John Collison, co-founder of Stripe, and Gillian Tans, CEO of Booking.com. vivatechnology.com

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Lisa Hughes rounds up this season’s most sizzling travel products, places and events.

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APP With over 270,000 available homes in more than 187 countries, chances are there’s a place on GuesttoGuest that matches your travel plans.

More like a social network than a booking site, members use GuestPoints to rack up free stays and cut down on those pesky business travel expenses. guesttoguest.com

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LUGGAGE There’s a reason why 7,000 people were on the waiting list before Raden went on sale.

These suitcases come in ten fetching shades, from light pink to gold, and can charge smartphones on the go thanks to two exterior charging ports.

With the app you can track your case with GPS and receive handy trip information such as traffic updates – and there’s even integrated scales to ensure you’re never over the baggage limit. From £250 at raden.com.

STAY Affordable room rates, original period features and a leafy Dublin 4 location near the RDS and Aviva Stadium make the family-run Sandymount Hotel a winner in the home-from-home stakes. In D1 for meetings? Hop on the dedicated courtesy bus to get to your meeting in town or make one of the seven fully equipped meeting rooms your base to get down to business. Rooms from €139. (Herbert Road, 01 6142000; sandymounthotel.ie)

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CARRY-ON From the smooth leather finish to the slim-line design, Knomo’s Knomad Air Zip organiser is a slick way to keep all your devices and travel essentials secure on board. Tucked inside are soft canvas pockets to hold your smartphone, chargers and a ten-inch (25.4cm) tablet in place and the organiser folds out flat so you have all your inflight musthaves at your fingertips. €99 at knomobags.com.

Passionate about Apple products. Committed to customer excellence.

A premium experience awaits.

Dublin, Cork, Limerick, Galway and Selfridges, London. www.compub.com

Available in store and online.

T 1850 66 8888 | www.compub.com A portion of the proceeds from every (PRODUCT)RED™ purchase will go to the Global Fund to fight AIDS in Africa. Subject to availability. TM and Š 2017 Apple Inc. All rights reserved.

Business Hotel

WOOLF WHISTLER

Melanie Morris channels bohemian creativity at London’s Charlotte Street Hotel.

THE LOWDOWN “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well,” said writer Virginia Woolf, whose Bloomsbury boys and gals once frequented this bohemian enclave of London’s upscale Fitzrovia. And guests of Charlotte Street Hotel are certainly spoilt for gustatory choice, it being so close to storied Soho and swanky Marylebone.

“One” can also feast at the hotel itself, in the stylish (and very reasonably priced) Oscar Bar and Restaurant, whose striking Alexander Hollweg frieze is a 21st-century reimagining of Bloomsbury painter Roger Fry’s 1916

tableau Scenes of Contemporary London Life. Rooms from £264. (15-17 Charlotte Street, Bloomsbury, +44 20 7806 2000; firmdalehotels.com) DOWN TO BUSINESS Literary connections aside, staying at the hotel induces a love of the spoken word too, as people love meeting there; the vivacious lounge, outdoor tables and bustling restaurant are filled with interesting people making fascinating plans. Front of house staff are friendly and welcoming; they are

WORKING LUNCH Taking inspiration from street markets across Hong Kong and China, Bun House specialises in serving – no surprise here – Chinesestyle steamed buns. Its minimalistic menu has a signature sticky barbecue pork belly bao, as well as other fillings such as chicken, vegetables, fish and lamb served alongside house-made Chinese pickles. Should a working lunch extend to the evening, the downstairs Tea Room’s late bar offers a selection of cocktails and drinks from Hong Kong breweries. (23-24 Greek Street, +44 208 017 9888; bun.house)

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proactive and usually spot-on with how they might be able to help. As part of the Firmdale Group, the hotel’s Kit Kemp-designed interiors are the perfect combination of contemporary, cool and decadently comfortable, with plenty of colour to echo the hotel’s natural vibrancy.

Bedrooms are spacious for London, while bathrooms are stocked with Firmdale’s own, divine range of RikRak toiletries.

DOWNTIME Every Friday and Sunday the hotel hosts a film screening and three-course meal for £40pp. Guests preferring to look like a starlet rather than watch one, can avail of the on-site Soholistic Spa, where massage, facials, reflexology, manis and pedis – even waxing – await (there’s also a hotel gym). Or, let inspiration strike beside the roaring fire in the Library or Drawing Room; who knows, maybe the ghosts of Woolf, Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant will call forth your own masterpiece ...

Aer Lingus flies from Ireland to London 29 times per day. From Dublin, Belfast, Cork and Shannon to London Heathrow, and from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.

GORSE HILL, VICO ROAD, KILLINEY, CO. DUBLIN Gorse Hill, one of Dublin’s finest coastal properties was built circa 2000 to take full advantage of its stunning maritime views across Dublin Bay. Standing on elevated terraced gardens extending to 2 acres approx., the property comprises a magnificent two storey double fronted detached residence providing 950 sq m / 10,220 sq ft approx. of wonderfully elegant accommodation which has been designed to take full advantage of the magnificent maritime views from Dalkey Island and along Killiney Beach to Bray Head.

The property enjoys wonderful privacy and a lovely, sunny south westerly orientation. Due to their elevated position, there are uninterrupted views of Killiney bay from virtually all sections of the gardens. The accommodation, which is laid out over two floors and is designed to take full advantage of the maritime views and

sun drenched southerly orientation, comprises a gracious hallway with open fireplace and double height central atrium, magnificent interconnecting drawing room and dining room with feature antique marble mantelpieces along with magnificent views, dual aspect library/study overlooking the bay, family room, kitchen/ break, utility, 6 double bedrooms (all with bathroom/shower rooms en suite), tennis court, garage.

This is an exceptional landmark house enjoying what is arguably one of Dublin’s finest waterfront settings combining a stunning location with excellent family accommodation. Asking Price €8.5 million.

PSRA Nos. 002183 & 001880. BER No. 109592782

Rena O’Kelly Knight Frank +353 (0)1 634 2466 +353 (0)86 254 0225 rena.okelly@ie.knightfrank.com knightfrank.ie

Simon Ensor Sherry FitzGerald +353 (0)1 269 8888 +353 (0)86 255 4536 simon.ensor@sherryfitz.ie sherryfitz.ie

Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT we spend our time in them. I hope that at Restoration Yard we have made somewhere that makes people very happy by its beauty and details.

Amanda’s

SMART CITY

3

The biggest barrier to creativity is inhibition.

Caring what other people might think, concerned about being judged, that your work isn’t good enough. Since I didn’t train as a designer I’ve always felt it was difficult to say that’s what I do.

That said, my primary school teacher, Florrie Armstrong [of multi-denominational, Educate Together fame] gave me and my classmates creative confidence.

She was ahead of her time.

4 AMANDA PRATT was the creative director of the family-run company Avoca for 28 years. Her Restoration Yard project (restorationyard.com) opened in Edinburgh last September, and comprises a store and a café, and she has designed the gift shop at the newly refurbished National Gallery of Ireland in Dublin, which reopens this month.

1

Choose a job you love and you will never have to work a day in your life. My dad always advised us as kids to work at whatever we loved doing, whatever we thought was fun. Of course, Confucius said it before him so it’s not exactly original ...

I was very lucky in Avoca because we were able to carve out areas where we really enjoyed the work.

In my case it was design of all sorts – product, fashion, buildings, accessories, jewellery, branding

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and buying too. I miss the fashion bit, if I’m being honest, but I’m very grateful to still be doing all the rest for other companies.

2

We shape our buildings, thereafter they shape us. Churchill said this and I think there’s a lot to learn here. We should consider carefully what is fit for purpose, in terms of buildings and spaces, for the human soul. They have an effect on how we feel and how

Anxiety is a pain in the ass. I did a course on Mindfulness Based Cognitive Behavioural Therapy (MBCBT) with a great man in Dublin who helped me a huge amount. We have a Wellbeing Lab at Restoration Yard as part of the mix, which is pretty innovative.

DESTINATION For the last 18 months I’ve been travelling back and forth to Edinburgh a lot for work. It is one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever been to – the layout, the architecture and the history is fantastic. It’s also really strong culturally.

SLEEP AT The Principal – formerly The George – is in a lovely, elegant building located in the centre of Edinburgh. It’s a brilliant area for shops, galleries and restaurants. The concierges wear kilts and the staff are very welcoming. phcompany.com

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Gender equality is good for business. I’ve never found that it was difficult being a woman in business but I think it’s important to make yourself heard. At a talk being given by [mindfulness guru] Jon Kabat-Zinn, despite the audience being 80 per cent women, the people who stood up and asked a question were all men. Disappointing. Speak up, women!

EAT AT Restoration Café at Restoration Yard. The food is delicious and many ingredients are from other Buccleuch estates. The maître d’ is Irish and worked at Avoca – so it’s home from home I suppose!

A dog or two is a great thing. They can teach us a lot about unconditional love and how to live in the moment.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Edinburgh five times daily, from Cork nine times weekly, and from Shannon six times weekly.

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KENURE, WESTMINSTER ROAD, FOXROCK, DUBLIN 18 Extensively refurbished with great flair and imagination in recent years, Kenure is one of Foxrock’s finest residences.

Standing on 1 acre approx. of magnificent gardens, Kenure provides 510 sq m / 5,490 sq ft approx. of elegant accommodation in addition to a charming detached coach house and double garage. Located on one of Foxrock’s favoured roads, Kenure is a short stroll from Foxrock Village and Leopardstown Racecourse, and within 25 minutes of Dublin city centre via the N11 and LUAS. The superbly appointed accommodation comprises spacious hallway with feature marble antique mantelpiece. Off the hall is the elegant dining room and impressive interconnecting drawing room/living room which in turn accesses the music / sunroom. The kitchen is an outstanding feature of the property, having been designed for catering on a large scale.

Simon Ensor Sherry FitzGerald +353 (0)1 269 8888 +353 (0)86 255 4536 simon.ensor@sherryfitz.ie sherryfitz.ie

Upstairs: off the feature landing/library to the front of the house are 2 fine double bedrooms with bathrooms/shower rooms ensuite. To the rear is bedroom 3 with shower room ensuite and the magnificent master bedroom with its luxurious bathroom ensuite. Located over the family room is the fifth ensuite bedroom.

In addition to the main house, there is a very well appointed mews with gymnasium, steam room and home office at ground floor level. Upstairs is a delightful one bedroom self-contained guest / staff suite. Beside the mews is a 2 car garage with electronic up and over doors as well as a large temperature controlled wine cellar.

Asking Price €4,950,000.

Daphne L Kaye Sherry FitzGerald +353 (0)1 289 4386 +353 (0)87 256 0269 daphne.kaye@sherryfitz.ie sherryfitz.ie

PSRA No. 002183. BER No. 105171235

WELCOME TO DUBLIN'S FINEST GASTROPUB The Old Spot offers a sophisticated dining experience within a warm and relaxed pub atmosphere.

Enjoy award-winning food, fine wines, craft beers and great service to match.

Recommended by the Michelin 'Eating out in Pubs' Guide 2016 & 2017

14 Bath Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4. For reservations please contact us: T: +353 1 660 5599 | E: info@theoldspot.ie | Online reservations: www.theoldspot.ie

A German/Irish Primary & Secondary School with a European culture & spirit

St. Kilian’s German School in South Dublin welcomes boys and girls of all nationalities, cultures and religions.

Children learn German from Kindergarten (Junior Infants) up to Leaving Certificate in a diverse and inclusive environment.

Knowledge of German is not a requirement to enrol at St. Kilian’s.

Contact us to arrange a visit.

St. Kilian’s Deutsche Schule Dublin, Roebuck Road, Clonskeagh, Dublin D14 P7F2 T +353 (0)1 288 3323 E secretary@kilians.com www.kilians.com

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I131 PAGE

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome aboard 126 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Boxsets 138 Music & Radio

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Welcome aboard Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!

Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on Youtube.

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. .

Conas atá tú? Ho w are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you.

When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

MONAGHAN’S

CASHMERE STORE Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide

Mr. Tom Monaghan

A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom Monaghan in his store in Dublin’s Royal Hibernian Way. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere selling a wide range of classic sweaters in the latest styles and colours for both men and women.

As we are celebrating our 57th year Tom would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents (terms and conditions apply)

M Monaghan’s Cashmere, Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

www.monaghanscashmere.ie

Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times.

We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

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Are you ready for take-off and landing?

• Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode?

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/ take-off/initial climb/approach/ landing.

• Is your seatback fully upright?

• Is your armrest down?

• Is your tabletop stowed?

• Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting.

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

HISTORY SO CLOSE IT COMES ALIVE Explore the 1916 Easter Rising & modern Irish History in a spectacular setting General Post Office, O’Connell St. Lower, Dublin 1 Tel: + 353 (0) 1 872 1916

Book online at www.gpowitnesshistory.ie for best rates

Your comfort and safety Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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A safe flight for everyone. It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécurité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Please do

e from Aircra

ft

Airbus 330

-200

For your Safety

Fógr a Sábh áilteacht Pour votre Sécurité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Seguridad

• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

• Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

not remov

Per la vostr a Sicurezza Säke rhet omb ord Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Pleas e do

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

not remo

ve from

Aircraft

Mode

Mode

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

• Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

• Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

• You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

DIS CO V ER THE INTRIGU ING TA LE O F IRIS H WHIS KEY!

Whiskey & Brunch Experience Guided tours Whiskey courses Venue hire Voted Whiskey tastings Top 10

in Dublin

LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie

NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK

Supper club with live music every Friday night 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

BOOK NOW!

+353 (0) 1 525 0970 WWW.IRISHWHISKEYMUSEUM.IE 119 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2

(OPPOSITE MAIN ENTRANCE OF TRINITY COLLEGE)

Sing

In a city of humanoid animals, a hustling theatre impresario‘s attempt to save his theatre with a singing competition becomes grander than he anticipates even as its finalists find that their lives will never be the same.

Box Office Movies Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky featuring a number of Oscar nominated films and actors.

Assassin‘s Creed

PG13

115 mins | Action Callum Lynch is a descendant of the secret Assassin‘s society. Stars Michael Fassbender, Marion Cotillard, Jeremy Irons EN FR DE IT ES

Manchester by the Sea

R

135 mins | Drama An uncle is forced to take care of his teenage nephew. Stars Casey Affleck, Kyle Chandler, Michelle Williams EN FR DE IT ES

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Beauty and the Beast

PG

Collateral Beauty

PG13

Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them

PG13

129 mins | Drama A monstrous-looking prince and a young woman fall in love. Stars Emma Watson, Dan Stevens

97 mins | Drama A man questions the universe by writing to Love, Time and Death. Stars Will Smith, Edward Norton, Kate Winslet

134 mins | Adventure Newt Scamander adventures in New York. Stars Eddie Redmayne, Colin Farrell

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN ENS

Miss Sloane

R

Patriots Day

R

Table 19

Fist Fight

R

91 mins | Drama A teacher is challenged to an after-school fight. Stars Ice Cube, Charlie Day, Tracy Morgan EN DE ADEN

PG13

The Founder

132 mins | Drama A formidable lobbyist takes on a powerful opponent.

Stars Jessica Chastain, Mark Strong, Gugu Mbatha-Raw

133 mins | Drama A story of the 2013 Boston Marathon bombing and aftermath. Stars Mark Wahlberg, Michelle Monaghan, JK Simmons

87 mins | Comedy An ex-maid of honour sits with randomers at a wedding. Stars Anna Kendrick, Lisa Kudrow, Stephen Merchant

115 mins | Biography A businessman turns McDonald‘s into a global success. Stars Michael Keaton, Nick Offerman, John Carroll Lynch

EN FR

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

PG13

Beauty and the Beast

This fairy tale centres on a young woman named Belle (Emma Watson), who is forced to live in an enchanted castle with a prince who is cursed to look like a hideous Beast.

In time, the pair fall in love as Belle learns to see the good man hiding behind the Beast‘s monstrous exterior.

OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO

Hidden Figures

PG

La La Land

PG13

Live by Night

R

Logan

127 mins | Biography Three brilliant AfricanAmerican women work at NASA. Stars Taraji P Henson, Octavia Spencer, Janelle Monáe

128 mins | Drama A jazz pianist falls for an aspiring actress in Los Angeles. Stars Ryan Gosling, Emma Stone, John Legend

123 mins | Crime Gangsters set up shop during the Prohibition era. Stars Ben Affleck, Elle Fanning, Brendan Gleeson

137 mins | Action A weary Logan cares for an ailing Professor X. Stars Hugh Jackman, Patrick Stewart, Dafne Keen

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ENS

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES

The Great Wall

PG13

103 mins | Action A mercenary is imprisoned within the Great Wall of China. Stars Matt Damon, Tian Jing, Willem Dafoe EN

The Lego Batman Movie

PG

Why Him?

R

Moana

R

Loving

PG13

123 mins | Biography The Lovings, an interracial couple, who fought a legal battle that would end at the US Supreme Court. Stars Ruth Negga, Joel Edgerton EN DE

PG

Sing

PG

104 mins | Action Bruce Wayne raises a boy he has adopted. Voiced by Will Arnett, Michael Cera, Rosario Dawson

111 mins | Comedy Ned Fleming realises that his daughter‘s Silicon Valley billionaire boyfriend is about to pop the question. Stars Bryan Cranston, James Franco

103 mins | KidZone In Ancient Polynesia, Moana answers the Ocean‘s call to seek out the Demigod to set things right. Voiced by Auli‘i Cravalho, Dwayne Johnson

108 mins | KidZone A hustling theatre impresario tries to save his theatre. Stars Matthew McConaughey, Reese Witherspoon

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |

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Movie Classics Alvin and the Chipmunks: Chipwrecked 86mins |

G

EN FR DE IT ES

Contact 130 mins | Stars Jodie Foster, John Hurt

Avatar PG13 162 mins | Stars Sam Worthington, Zoe Saldana

Batman PG13 Begins 140 mins | Stars Christian Bale

Blade 120 mins | Stars Wesley Snipes, Stephen Dorff

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

Fantastic Four PG13 105 mins | Stars Ioan Gruffudd, Chris Evans

Hancock PG13 92 mins | Stars Will Smith, Charlize Theron

Interstellar PG13 169 mins | Stars Anne Hathaway, Jessica Chastain

Deadpool 106 mins | Stars Ryan Reynolds, Morena Baccarin

PG

We also provide a selection of classic movies.

Timeless favourites such as Superman from 1978 along with a more modern twist on the superhero in Man of Steel. We also feature a selection of Irish short films and features.

R

R

Chronicle PG13 81 mins | Stars Dane DeHaan, Alex Russell

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Jupiter PG13 Ascending 127 mins | Stars Mila Kunis

Jurassic PG13 Park 127 mins | Stars Samuel L Jackson

Man Of Steel PG13 143 mins | Stars Henry Cavill, Amy Adams

Mrs PG13 Doubtfire 126 mins | Stars Robin Williams

Romeo & PG13 Juliet (1996) 121 mins | Stars Claire Danes

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE

EN FR DE

Superman PG (1978) 143 mins | Stars Christopher Reeve

The Dark PG13 Knight 152 mins | Stars Heath Ledger

The Dark PG13 Knight Rises 164 mins | Stars Tom Hardy

The Mask PG13 101 mins | Stars Jim Carrey, Cameron Diaz

The Other PG13 Woman 107 mins | Stars Kate Upton, Leslie Mann

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES ENS

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

The Wedding PG13 Singer 95 mins | Stars Adam Sandler

The PG13 Wolverine 118 mins | Stars Hugh Jackman

Titanic PG13 195 mins | Stars Leonardo di Caprio, Kate Winslet

X-Men: PG13 First Class 130 mins | Stars James McAvoy

You‘ve Got Mail PG 120 mins | Stars Tom Hanks, Meg Ryan

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S

Change in R the Weather 17 mins | Stars Muiris Crowley, Joe Mullins

In the Valley R of the Moon 14 mins | Stars Eric Lalor, Stephen Mullan

Shem the PG13 Penman Sings Again 80 mins | Stars Hugh O‘Connor

The PG13 Death of a Projectionist 14 mins | Stars Ian McElhinney

The Debt PG 12 mins | Stars Lee O‘Donoghue, Susie Power

The Lost G Letter 8 mins | Voiced

by Kate WInslet

The PG13 Nymph 10mins | Stars Martin Galligan, Anna Ilya Ozolina

The Young R Offenders 83 mins | Stars Alex Murphy, Hilary Rose

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

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Do hen y & Nes bi t t 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.

Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.

Voted overall

best pub in Ireland in the hospitality Ireland awards

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie

Brasserie Sixty6 is one of Dublin’s favourite restaurants in the heart of the city centre.

Open seven days a week, we serve lunch, dinner and host one of the best brunches in town on the weekends.

Our menu features some hearty, home style favourites using fresh Irish produce. To pair with the food we’ve got a tempting cocktail list of hand-crafted signature drinks and signature cocktails as well as a wine list with over 100 wines from all over the globe.

66-67 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2. For bookings please call 01-4005878

www.brasseriesixty6.com

DON’T FORGET TO CHECK-IN - FACEBOOK: brasseriesixty6restaurant Twitter: brasseriesixty6

TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.

An Experience with Conor McGregor

Modern Family This American television mockumentary sitcom revolves around three different types of families living in the Los Angeles area who are all related. It gives us an honest and often hilarious look into the sometimes warm, sometimes twisted, embrace of the modern family. On board is Series 7, Episodes 1 & 2.

The notorious MMA fighter Conor McGregor speaks to MMA journalist Ariel Helwani, and entertains a sold-out audience in an exclusive one night only event in Manchester.

BUSINESS

D O C U M E N TA R Y

Business Planet, Real Economy Looking at a range of enterprises CNBC Conversation Series 1, Episode 2, Bertrand Piccard talks about circumnavigating the globe Futuris Compilation, Scientific & technological research projects One Second in F1 Racing Series 1, Episode 9, The Future of F1 Studio 1.0 An interview with Napster co-founder Sean Parker Tech Transformers Uber‘s first employee Ryan Graves The Edge Series 1, Episode 6, Matt Damon discusses his water.org foundation C O M E DY

Ballers Series 1, Episodes 6 & 7, A retired NFL player turns into a financial manager Undateable Series 2, Episodes 1 & 2, A group of close-knit friends live in Detroit The Grinder Series 1, Episode 1 & 2, A popular TV lawyer returns to his hometown to work The Last Man on Earth Series 1, Episode 7, A lone survivor travels through a post-apocalyptic world 2 Broke Girls Series 4, Episodes 4 & 5, Two young women waitress at a diner to raise money 134 |

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Beer Geeks Series 1, Episode 14 , A brewery in Massachusetts Globe Trekker Series 17, Episode 1, Architectural history Heston‘s Dinner in Space Series 1, Episode 1, Heston Blumenthal takes a look at food in space How It‘s Made: Dream Cars Series 3, Episode 2, The Camaro Looking for the Hobbit Series 1, Episode 2, John Howe visits the French forest of Brocéliane Paris Couture One-Off Special, Haute couture‘s revival Race for the White House Series 1, Episode 2, Abraham Lincoln Raw Travel Series 5, Episode 7, Utah for the adventurous traveller The Story of God with Morgan Freeman Series 1, Episode 2 Tracks and Trails Series 6, Episode 5, Hiking Trails in Sligo DR AMA

Falling Water Series 1, Episode 1, Three people share a link Jane the Virgin Series 2, Episode 1, Sin Rostro demands a ransom Supergirl Series 1, Episode 1, Supergirl embraces her powers The Flash Series 3, Episodes 2 & 3, Barry meets his new co-worker and the city is attacked

Videojug A selection of how-to videos containing tips and advice on a range of topics including beauty, style, food and drink, money and careers.

LIFEST YLE

Be Your Own Boss Series 1, Episode 1, Anchor meets Terence Lewis at an event Culturefox Series 1, Episode 9, A guide to Irish cultural events Diplo Presents: @Large – Creators at Work Series 1, Episode 7, Profiling artists from around the world Getaways Series 1, Episode 17, Joe and Angela visit Toronto HitRecord on TV Series 2, Episode 3, School themed music How to Cook Well with Rory O'Connell Series 2, Episode 2, Rory prepares some tasty dishes Room to Improve Series 9, Episode 3, Dermot Bannon takes on another renovation Say Yes to the Dress Series 14, Episode 1, Finding the perfect wedding dress Whiskey Business Series 1, Episode 3 & 4, The Teeling brothers face risks and delays NEWS & EVENTS

In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

SPORT

American Motor Stories Series 1, Episode 2, Classic drag racing cars from the 50s–70s Classic Rugby Matches Lions v Australia 2001, 1st Test Classic Rugby Matches Lions v Australia 2001, 2nd Test Great Sporting Moments Series 1, Episode 4, A look at some great sporting moments K I DZ O N E

Doodle‘s House Compilation, A step-by-step drawing show presented by a cartoonist Giving Tales Series 1, Episode 1–9, Hans Christian Anderson‘s fairy tales Planet Cosmo Series 1, Episode 3 & 4, Cosmo and her family explore our solar system Ultimate Spider-Man Series 2, Episode 2, An enemy takes control of the city‘s electricity Victorious Series 3, Episode 4, Andre has a bossy girlfriend Zig & Sharko Compilation, Zig battles a polar bear

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

“It’s crystal clear”

A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.

+353 (0) 51 317000 houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

The Leftovers Season 2

Boxsets

In the second season of this enthralling series, Kevin and others pick up the pieces in the aftermath of the Mapleton riots, Laurie tries to spread the word about the dangers of the Guilty Remnant, Nora awakens in the midst of an earthquake to find Kevin missing, Matt seeks answers about his wife‘s condition, and much more.

Choose from five boxsets to watch on board today. Delve into historical time-travel series, Outlander, the horror drama The Walking Dead or the post-apocalyptic The Leftovers.

Also on board are Vikings and Gotham.

Created by Damon Lindelof, Emmy Award winner for Lost, and acclaimed novelist Tom Perrotta. Cast regulars for season two include Justin Theroux, Amy Brenneman, Christopher Eccleston, Liv Tyler, Carrie Coon, Ann Dowd, Margaret Qualley, Chris Zylka, Regina King, Kevin Carroll, Jovan Adepo and Janel Moloney. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 2.

The Walking Dead, Season 6/7 Episode 9: Daryl, Abraham and Sasha face-off against the Saviors.

Episode 10: Rick and Daryl cross paths with Jesus.

Episode 11: Jesus takes Rick and the group to the Hilltop Colony.

Episode 12: Rick leads a surprise attack against the Saviors.

Episode 13: Carol and Maggie must fight for their lives.

Episode 14: A supply run led by Daryl turns chaotic.

Episode 15: Rick and Morgan set out in the search for Carol.

Episode 16: Morgan continues his search for Carol.

Episode 1: Rick and the group kneel helplessly as they suffer a loss.

Episode 2: Carol and Morgan are brought to a community.

Vikings, Season 4 Episode 1: Events unfold beyond Ragnar‘s control.

Episode 2: Ragnar and Floki are still at odds.

Episode 3: Ragnar tells Floki he has to pay a price for his actions.

Episode 4: Ragnar gets to know the new slave woman.

Episode 5: Halfdan the Black arrives in Kattegat.

Episode 6: Ragnar reveals his plan to raid Paris again.

Episode 7: Ragnar carries out his plan of attack.

Episode 8: After facing defeat, Ragnar refuses to retreat.

Episode 9: The Vikings finally reach the river.

Episode 10: Ragnar must fight against Rollo.

Gotham, Season 3 Episode 1: Gordon looks for answers about the escapees.

Episode 2: Fish Mooney takes matters into her own hands.

Episode 3: A hypnotist arrives in Gotham to search for his sister.

Episode 4: Penguin gains leverage over Gotham City.

Episode 5: Penguin struggles to uphold his promises to the city.

Episode 6: Mad Hatter sets his eyes on his next victims.

Episode 7: Jim Gordon gets led on a psychedelic trip.

Episode 8: Captain Barnes starts to go mad.

Episode 9: Gordon and Bullock become suspicious of Barnes.

Episode 10: A threat to Leslie and Mario is exposed.

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Outlander Season 2 Season two of this historical time-travel series finds Claire (played by award-winning Irish actress Caitriona Balfe), Jamie and Murtagh in Paris as they plan to infiltrate the Royal Court of France, forge allegiances and disrupt the Jacobite Rebellion. The earthiness and organic colours of the Scottish Highlands have been exchanged for stylish Parisian costumes, colours and architecture, but its wilderness is never far away as life-changing battles loom on the horizon for all concerned. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 2.

The Home of Aran

Killarney I Aran Islands I Dublin Get €10.00 off when you spend €100 or more online - Use Code: ARANCARA wwww.AranSweaterMarket.com

Music & Radio Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

Superwoman is the fourth studio album by English singer-songwriter Rebecca Ferguson. She came to prominence in 2010 when she became the runner-up of the seventh series of The X Factor, losing to the winner that year, Matt Cardle.

POP

The Blue of the Night Carl Corcoran, RTÉ Lyric FM EASY LISTENING

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels INDIE

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM IRISH

Late Date Fiachna Ó Braonáin, RTÉ Radio 1 Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs The Greatest Hits of All Time Michael Comyn, RTÉ Gold The Big Breakfast with Cooper & Luke 98FM The Nicky Byrne Show with Jenny Greene RTÉ 2fm TA L K

Ceol na Gael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E

Happy Days with Clara Clara Murray, RTÉ Junior ROCK

Documentary on One RTÉ Radio 1, Two documentaries on board: a brave Irishman whose bravery led to a campaign to name a warship after him and a couple who’ve had their smartphones taken away.

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk

Marty Miller Radio Nova

Movie and Musicals This show features a wide range of soundtracks from early classics, right through to contemporary scores from the world of musicals.

Presented by Aedín Gormley from RTÉ Lyric FM.

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David Bowie No Plan compiles the original songs written for David Bowie‘s Broadway musical, Lazarus and was released posthumously on January 8th 2017, coinciding with his 70th birthday.

The songs were first recorded by the cast of the musical as part of its official soundtrack and include the tracks Lazarus, No Plan, Killing a Little Time, and When I Met You.

We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!

Gavin James Bitter Pill is the debut studio album from Dublin singer-songwriter Gavin James, featuring the popular hits For You, Nervous and the soul-infused title track Bitter Pill, which won Irish Song of the Year at Ireland’s Choice Music Prize in 2015 and received rave reviews following a performance on James Corden’s The Late Late Show. Find out more about Gavin, his creative process and his success as he introduces tracks off this spectacular debut.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

Aretha Franklin The Essential Aretha Franklin Barry Manilow Tryin‘ to Get the Feeling Billy Joel Glass Houses Elvis Presley Elvis Is Back!

Roy Orbison The Ultimate Collection A LT E R N AT I V E

CRX New Skin Jimmy Eat World Integrity Blues MUNA About U The Black Moods Medicine The Shins Heartworms Tom Grennan Something in the Water CL ASSIC AL

Glenn Gould 50 Masterworks – Glenn Gould Gustavo Dudamel & Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra New Year‘s Concert 2017 (Neujahrskonzert 2017) Mauro Peter & Helmut Deutsch Schumann: Dichterliebe & Selected Songs Various Artists Bill Turnbull‘s Relaxing Classics Various Artists Mitologia – Handel: Arias & Duets

COUNTRY

Jessie James Decker Gold Kane Brown Kane Brown Kelsea Ballerini The First Time Kenny Chesney Cosmic Hallelujah Luke Combs This One‘s for You Miranda Lambert The Weight of These Wings

JA Z Z

David Orlowsky Trio Paris – Odessa Nick Finzer Hear & Now Nils Petter Molvaer Buoyancy The Bad Plus Made Possible Tony Bennett I Left my Heart in San Francisco Various Artists Tony Bennett Celebrates 90

Zara Larsson So Good is the second studio album by 19-year-old Swedish pop sensation Zara Larsson and features a string of hit singles including Lush Life, Never Forget You and the highly infectious Symphony.

ELEC TRO

Faithless Sunday 8 PM Jean-Michel Jarre Electronica 1: The Time Machine Major Lazer Peace is the Mission Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 Various Big Beats Various Big Beats 2 IR ISH

M E TA L

Bullet for My Valentine Fever In Flames Clayman Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Judas Priest Turbo 30 (Remastered) Ozzy Osbourne Diary of a Madman OPER A

Celtic Thunder Emmet Cahill‘s Ireland

Leonard BernsteinACT01 West Side Story

Daithi In Flight Damien Dempsey It‘s All Good – The Best of Damien Dempsey Gavin James Bitter Pill Hare Squead Supernormal Hermitage Green Live at the Curragower Bar

Paul Potts One Chance Plácido Domingo, Pablo Heras-Casado & Orquestra de la Comunitat Valenciana Verdi Various Opera‘s Legendary Performances 2 Various Sacred Duets Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets

P OP

Aaron Carter LøVë James Arthur Back from the Edge Rag‘n‘Bone Man Human The Chainsmokers Collage Various Artists BBC Radio 1‘s Live Lounge 2016 Zara Larsson So Good RNB

Charlie Wilson In It to Win It Izzy Bizu A Moment of Madness John Legend Darkness and Light Khalid American Teen Rebecca Ferguson Superwoman Syd Fin

ROCK

AC/DC Highway to Hell Bruce Springsteen Chapter and Verse David Bowie No Plan Kings of Leon Walls Mallory Knox Wired Sundara Karma Youth is Only Ever Fun in Retrospect K I DZ O N E

City of London Sinfonia; Stuart Hancock We‘re Going on a Bear Hunt Hans Christian Anderson Giving Tales Kidz Bop Kids Kidz Bop 30 Ken Elkinson Around the Globe in a Lullaby Volume 2 Leonard Bernstein Bernstein Favorites: Children‘s Classics Various Artists Too Cool for School, Mixtape for Kids

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Where are you flying to?

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens.

Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have.

Here you can, collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Passport Control and Security Screening

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Geataí Gates

101-335

Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Departure Gate

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow

401-426

Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Flight Connections for North American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

Historic O’Neill’s

the famous Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

• Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous • Pour Your Own Pint tables Carvery serving only the finest Irish • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s Lonely Planet rate us as one of the our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a Top 5 Places to find ‘Real Irish food fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys in Dublin’ and malts • Irish Music and Traditional Irish • HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan Dancing 7 nights-a-week with major international league games.

• Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Largest selection of local Irish can’t be beaten for quality and Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and representing as many of the local toast only €7.95, Pictured below. This Craft Breweries as possible, rotating special offer is available Mon-Fri and guesting beers only, 8am-11.30am.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery.

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

Our European and North American Route Network

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver

Thunder Bay

Victoria Seattle Duluth

Traverse

Minneapolis Eugene

Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Medford

Grand Rapids

Omaha

Des Moines

Denver

Reno

Kansas

Fort Wayne Akron Canton Chicago

Fresno Las Vegas Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Palm Springs Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Cincinnati

Phoenix Tucson

Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

El Paso Houston

Providence

Boston

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Austin

Honolulu Kahului

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis Little Rock

Halifax

Portland ME

Washington (National)

Lexington

Nashville

Albany

Hartford

Newark

Washington (Dulles)

Springfield

San Jose

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Moncton

Burlington Syracuse

Columbus Harrisburg

Dayton

Indianapolis

St Louis

Oakland

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Toronto

Fredericton

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

San Antonio

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

San Juan Aguadilla

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to ten US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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Ponce

Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America.

Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

London (Gatwick)

Warsaw

DĂźsseldorf

Southampton

Exeter

Newquay

s

Berlin

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff

Hamburg Amsterdam

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante Murcia Malaga

Izmir

Athens Catania

Faro

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

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Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Johannesburg

Cape Town

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

TEMPLE BAR • DUBLIN 2 TEL: 671 7777 • HARDROCK.COM

EAT LIKE YOU

Our 7oz* flame-grilled burgers are made with prime cuts of beef from Ireland. We use carefully select beef brisket and chuck steak to give you the very best flavour and succulence.

New

MEAN IT NEW FRESH HANDCRAFTED BURGERS

HANGOVER BURGER

FRENCH DIP STACKHOUSE BURGER TEXAS CHILLI CHEESEBURGER COWBOY TRIPLE MEAT BURGER

WE’RE FLIPPING

THE BURGER WORLD UPSIDE DOWN

Ha

Staying connected on board*

Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.

THE SMARICTE CHO

Aer Social

€6.95 $7.95

Mobile Network on board

With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**.

Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode.

Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

2 Aeromobile

€13.95 $15.95

Aer Max

€29.95 $32.95

Wi-Fi on board in six steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Connect

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

3 Welcome SMS

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

International roaming rates apply.

4 Connected

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

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3 Purchase Internet Access

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.

THERE’S A NEW STORY IN TOWN THAT’S OVER 230 YEARS OLD

WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating.

Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.

Aerlingus.com

Two Fine Irish American Pubs in Jersey City, New Jersey, USA PJ Ryans Tavern 292 Barrow St. Downtown 201-333-8752

PJ Ryans Squared 4 PATH Plaza in Journal Square 201-222-1600

28 TV’s to catch any sport

LIVE MUSIC • Th, Fr, Sat

Happy Hour Daily 4-7

pjryansjc.com

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

’Tis the

Season

Summer's here at last – stock up on-board with these holiday must-haves.

MOROCCANOIL – TRAVELLER SET

Enriched with vitamins and argan oil this on-the-go bottle helps keep hair shiny and nourished after a day in the sun.

TANORGANIC – SELF TAN OIL Keep your holiday glow alive with this Irish-made oil that also maintains supple and soft skin.

REVLON – SUPER LUSTROUS LIP CUBE

This travel collection of moisturising and vitamin-enriched lipsticks are perfect for the suitcase and will effortlessly transform your look from day to night.

TED BAKER – PAIGE SUNGLASSES

Not just a fashion statement, these Ted Baker shades offer 100 per cent UV protection – an essential for the summer months.

HIPPIE CHIC BOHO WATCH AND BRACELET SET Complete any outfit with this bohemian watch and bracelet set.

The leather straps are embellished with charms making it a quirky accessory for any occasion.

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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | ATLANTIC CROSSING

WILD ATLANTIC WAVES n February 1, 2017, I stepped off my small ocean rowing boat Doireann. I had just spent 49 days alone, rowing 5,000 kilometres across the Atlantic Ocean from the Canary island of La Gomera to Antigua in the Caribbean.

My journey to this point started two years earlier, when I read a book called Salt, Sweat, Tears

by Adam Rackley, who wrote about rowing in the middle of the Atlantic at nighttime, stirring up bioluminescent plankton with every oar stroke and the Milky Way on full show above. I was captured by this romantic notion and it wasn’t long before I signed up for the challenge of a lifetime.

A hard 18 months ensued where I had to learn everything about ocean rowing – the boat, the endless amount of kit and how to fix everything myself as I was going solo.

O

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The Talisker Whisky Atlantic Challenge is billed as the world’s toughest row, a race held on and off since 1997. Only a few Irish people have been involved in various teams of pairs and fours. One other Irishman, Sean McGowan, completed the crossing solo in 2010 and his main bit of advice to me was “nothing you can do will truly prepare you for what it’s really like out there, you just have to get used to being scared all the time”. I was one of 12 boats in this year’s race – mostly pairs and teams of three and four, then a few of us hardy solo competitors who are labelled “mad” by the ocean-rowing fraternity.

I pushed off from La Gomera on December 14, 2016 with nearly 100 days of food supplies and not knowing when I would reach the other side. I rowed upward of 16 hours a day. A gruelling routine formed of three hours on and one off, with a block of three hours’ sleep in the middle of the night

BEN DUFFY

Earlier this year, rower Gavan Hennigan crossed 5,000 kilometres of the Atlantic Ocean – and broke an Irish and race record to boot.

Sticking his oar in, Gavan Hennigan rowed solo across the Atlantic Ocean.

when I set my autopilot to keep me on course. Despite the seascape remaining largely the same, the ocean became an ever-changing dynamic environment to which I became more attuned every day.

My hands became callused and blistered, and I burned up to 10,000 calories a day, eventually losing 13 kilos of my bodyweight.

By the halfway point I was in third position overall, with two four-man boats in the lead. At this point I was punching well above my weight and could have backed off still winning the solo category comfortably. But I decided to try to make my mark by breaking the race record and pull off an unlikely upset. A team of three Americans were within 15 kilometres of me for the last seven days so I upped the tempo, culminating on the final day into Antigua when I rowed 14 hours straight to hold third position, breaking the Irish and race record.

What an adventure!

Discover what all the hush is about. out.

The problem with good things and small batches is that demand often pips supply. Add that Redbreast is the most awarded Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey and you can understand why Redbreast drinkers are tight lipped when it comes to spreading the word.