Cara June 2018

June 2018

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

FIGHTING FORM

KATIE TAYLOR

REBEL, REBEL

IRISH MOVERS, SHAKERS & TROUBLEMAKERS KENMARE • PHILADELPHIA • LANZAROTE • SINTRA

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CONTENTS JUNE 2018

CHECK IN

4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news 8 ARRIVALS Blow-ins and prodigal children at Dublin’s T2

11 CHECK IN What’s hot to trot in June, from fests to theatre 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican browses the best literary offerings 30 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Justin Green’s favourite places when he’s not at Ballyvolane House 32 5 GOOD REASONS Lucy White hunts high and low in Seattle 34 WEEKENDER Amsterdam does good minibreaks, finds Niamh O’Donoghue

80

Lesser-spotted Lanzarote

36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO ZURICH Stefan Hottinger-Behmer takes us behind the scenes of the Swiss city

FEATURES

38 BOX FRESH Clíona Foley goes ringside in Connecticut with boxing champ Katie Taylor 45 CABIN FEVER Marie Kelly talks shop with Louise Kennedy about designing Aer Lingus’ new uniform 50 THE NEW RADICALS Roisin Agnew meets Irish wave makers 60 PICTURE PERFECT Lucy White pulls on her hiking boots in Kenmare 70 PHILADELPHIA, HERE I COME Eoin Higgins gets his Rocky on 80 NATURAL BEAUTY Lanzarote surprises by Marcus Bradshaw 90 KING OF THE CASTLE Nathalie Marquez Courtney rests her lens on Portugal’s enchanting Sintra

60

Farm-fresh Kenmare

50 Renegade Masters

REGULARS

99 5 THRILLING IRISH ADVENTURES Yvonne Gordon’s adrenaline-junkie edit

106 48 HOURS IN VIENNA Geraldine Carton has a ball in Austria 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Nomad author Anna Hart doffs a cap to primatologist Dian Fossey in Rwanda

70 Fab Philly

BUSINESS

110 BUSINESS & LIFE Melanie Mullan’s executive edit on where to work, rest and play in Dublin 116 SWISS SWOO! Lucy White checks into Geneva and checks out hotels in Brussels, San Francisco and Belfast 118 A DAY IN THE LIFE Orecco flow – Brian Moore’s Californian beat

120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Life lessons by Margaret Molloy of Siegel+Gale and #WearingIrish

Alaïa Armani Balenciaga Bottega Veneta Burberry Canada Goose Céline Chanel Charlotte Tilbury Chloé Christian Louboutin Dolce & Gabbana Erdem Fendi Givenchy Gucci Hermès Huda Beauty Jimmy Choo Louis Vuitton M•A•C Manolo Blahnik Moncler NARS Prada Saint Laurent Paris Tiffany & Co Tom Ford Valentino Victoria Beckham Zegna Ireland’s Most Beautiful Store, The World’s Best Brands, Exceptional Service, A Luxury Destination For Women, Men, Beauty, Home And Gifting.

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CARA Magazine June 2018

WELCOME ABOARD This edition we reveal Aer Lingus’ newest brand ambassador and celebrate our busiest ever summer schedule and improvements in guest experience. elcome aboard and thank you for choosing to fly with us today.

After what seemed like a very long winter, summer is finally here!

Aer Lingus continues to expand and deliver new routes, resulting in our busiest ever summer schedule to more than 100 destinations across the UK, Europe and North America. In order to service these new flights, we’re delighted to welcome new recruits to the Aer Lingus cabin team. They are committed to making your journey as comfortable as possible, in keeping with our award-winning four-star Skytrax service.

The West Coast of America is now more accessible than ever, with direct flights to Seattle running four times a week since May 18. The number of direct routes from Ireland to North America now totals 15 and also includes Philadelphia, which launched from Dublin in March. Hot-foot it to page 70 to read Eoin Higgins’ lowdown on welcoming, colourful Philly, a city as rich with history as it is with top-notch grub and equally suited to a weekend break or a longer recce.

This edition we also introduce our new cover star, Aer Lingus’ newest brand ambassador: the indomitable Katie Taylor.

W

We sent sports journalist Clíona Foley over to her training centre in Hartford, Connecticut, to talk about what motivates the champion boxer to be the best in the world and how she divides her time between Ireland and the US – see page 38. This June 14-17, Katie, below, is joining Aer Lingus to support the Special Olympics Ireland Games in Dublin, where many of our airline staff are volunteering at the event as part of an enduring 15-year partnership with the organisation.

This edition also delves into 78 years of the Aer Lingus uniform to mark the reappointment of leading Irish designer Louise Kennedy. Louise is currently engaged in workshops with staff to help inform the redesign process, her iconic 20-year-old ensemble is to be given a new look for 2019 and beyond. Turn to page 45 for Marie Kelly’s sneak preview that also includes a fun dawdle down memory lane to look at the uniforms of Aer Lingus’ past.

These are some of the highlights in this month’s issue of Cara and we hope that you enjoy it. You are very welcome to take the magazine away with you when you arrive at your destination, as you plan your next Aer Lingus adventure ...

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.

THE NEED FOR SPEED In the first three months of this year, 85 per cent of Aer Lingus flights arrived early, on-time or within 15 minutes of their ETA. We know that punctuality is a high priority and we do our best to deliver you to your destinations on time.

MOOD MAKER The days of bright lights rudely waking your on-board slumber will soon become a thing of the past: Aer Lingus is rolling out mood lighting across its fleet, ensuring a more holistic and restful experience.

RAINBOW WARRIORS Aer Lingus is the official airline partner of Dublin LGBTQ Pride Festival 2018 this June 21-31.

Many of our staff will be taking part in the parade on June 30 so come along to cheer us on and join in the fun!

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EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Roisin Agnew, Geraldine Carton, Graham Corcoran, Mark Duggan, Clíona Foley, Rich Gilligan, Yvonne Gordon, Stefan Hottinger-Behmer, Bridget Hourican, Tristan Hutchinson, Sinéad Lawlor, Fuchsia MacAree, Nathalie Marquez Courtney, Erica Martell, Fiona McCarthy, Tara O’Brien, Niamh O’Donoghue, Brenna O’Donnell, Kyle Tunney

CONTRIBUTORS

RN KIERAN HA

ET T

ART Art Director Niamh Richardson Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editor-in-Chief Lizzie Gore-Grimes Contributing Editor Melanie Morris Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Gina Traynor Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Melanie Morris, Laura George, Robert Power

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

MARIE KELLY began her career in publishing almost 20 years ago at Hearst Magazines in London. Since then she has contributed both fashion and lifestyle features to Country Living Magazine, YOU Magazine, The Irish Times, Irish Mail on Sunday, Irish Daily Mail, Sunday Independent LIFE Magazine, The Gloss, IMAGE Magazine and IMAGE Interiors & Living. Currently the fashion director at IMAGE Publications, Marie found designer Louise Kennedy’s journey to design her second Aer Lingus uniform remarkable, and it’s not over yet – find out more at page 45.

MARCUS BRADSHAW is a tour guide based in Prague, a city he grew to know and love during a “year abroad” university exchange. One year is now five, and he lives in Prague full-time, where he runs his own walking tour company – Naked Tour Guide. He has also contributed to the Irish Times Abroad and has written Prague city guides for Cara. When not out on the streets walking and talking history, he busies himself with the mammoth task of learning the Czech language. An enthusiastic urban gardener, this issue sees him write about his recent ecoadventures in Lanzarote – see page 80.

Belfast-born writer ANNA HART’s career as a freelance journalist has taken her all over the world, from stargazing in Namibia to reporting on hipster witches in Los Angeles to driving up frozen riverbeds in the Canadian Arctic. Her travel memoir, Departures: A Guide to Letting Go, One Adventure at a Time (Little, Brown Book Group) has just been published and she has written for Condé Nast Traveller, The Guardian, Sunday Times Travel and Vogue.

On page 152 of Cara, Anna recalls her most adrenaline-spiking wildlife encounter, gorilla-tracking in Rwanda.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent MD Christina da Silva Commercial Director Justine Daly Creative Director Stuart Purcell Editorial Director Maureen Rice Finance Director Jane Moffett Strategy & Business Director Ann Hartland +44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE PUBLICATIONS LTD

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned.

All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

June 2018

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

FIGHTING FORM

KATIE TAYLOR

REBEL, REBEL

IRISH MOVERS, SHAKERS & TROUBLEMAKERS

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

KENMARE • PHILADELPHIA • LANZAROTE • SINTRA

ON THE COVER

Katie Taylor photographed

by Rich Gilligan. Styling and grooming by Sinéad Lawlor, makeup by Erica Martell.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

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WHO? Ann Crosbie FLYING IN FROM ...

Los Angeles ANN SAYS ... “I’m on my way home from a couple of weeks holidays in sunny LA. It was wonderful, although I haven’t slept for a long time.”

ARRIVALS

Cara was at T2 to warmly welcome newbies, prodigal sons and daughters and fleeting visitors.

WHO? Jeanine Ruppanner and Nathan McGreal FLYING IN FROM ... Zurich JEANINE SAYS ... “I’m from Switzerland and we’ve just moved to Ireland. Nathan lived in Zurich for two and a half years, so it’s my turn now.”

WHO? Madi Howell and Andrew Lewis FLYING IN FROM ... Paris MADI SAYS ...

“We’re from Melbourne, Australia and have flown over for our friends’ wedding in West Cork.”

WHO? Lois Ann Morrison FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco LOIS ANN SAYS ... “I’m here for one night before heading to the south of Spain for a few weeks.”

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WHO? Callum Swift FLYING IN FROM ... London CALLUM SAYS ... “I went to university in Dublin so I’m back to catch up with some friends for the weekend.”

WORDS BY FIONA McCARTHY AND BRENNA O'DONNELL / PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN

WHO? Marah, Jozo and Noah Opacak FLYING IN FROM ... Frankfurt JOZO SAYS ... “I’ve brought my two children for a few days to explore Dublin.

It's our first time here.”

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CHECK IN FRIDA KAHLO ON THE BENCH, 1938, PHOTOGRAPH BY NICKOLAS MURAY © NICKOLAS MURAY PHOTO ARCHIVES

EAT · READ · GO

Mexican Wave

Frida Kahlo is hotter than a habanero right now. With each passing year her iconography rises, the painter’s colourful huipil, infamous unibrow and garlanded hair appearing at many a millennial fancy dress party. Little wonder that tickets for Making Her Self Up this June 16 to November 4 at London’s V&A Museum are selling like hot tres leches cakes. Locked away for 50 years after her death, this collection of her personal clothing and artefacts is on show for the first time outside Mexico – so book tickets in advance to guarantee a glimpse of Kahlo’s treasures. vam.ac.uk

AERLINGUS.COM |

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PAUL COLIN, JOSEPHINE BAKER, DANCING, 1927 © VG BILD-KUNST, BONN 2018

STAY

4 AQUATIC ESCAPES

Radisson Blu, Berlin If you don’t spot the AquaDom that dominates the lobby in central Berlin’s Radisson Blu then you are in the wrong place. An enormous 25 metres in height, it is the largest cylindrical aquarium in the world and a range of the hotel’s 427 rooms overlook its school of tropical fish. Guests can also enjoy their company over a cocktail at the hotel’s Atrium Bar. Rooms from €169. radissonblu.com

Hotel Excelsior, Venice Everything about the Hotel Excelsior is luxurious. It has a grand palace exterior, an exclusive pier and extravagant chandeliers but its pinnacle is the hotel’s private beach where even more private cabanas offer swanky protection from the rays. A short boat ride from Venice’s bustling centre, the hotel provides the perfect gateway to city explorations or ultimate, and discreet, relaxation. B&B from €450. hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com

Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress, Orlando It may be a stone’s throw from Disney’s magical wonderland but the stylish and sophisticated Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress has its own dazzling array of water attractions to mesmerise guests.

From paddle boarding and kayaking to fishing and cave grottos – as well as three large pools to choose from – there’s aqua activity to quench any thirst. Doubles from $239. grandcypress.regency.hyatt.com

Jules’ Undersea Lodge, Key Largo If you’re looking for the ultimate scuba diving – and sleeping – with the fishes experience then look no further than a trip to Jules’. Scuba dive down into the sea before cosying up for the night in the underwater hotel with all the necessary amenities for a memorable night in – including pizza delivery. Overnight package for two from $800. jul.com

KIDS

GIDDY UP

Mosey on down to the Curraheen Showgrounds in Co Cork this June 16-17 for the annual Cork Summer Show. The fun family day out sees the return of steam trains and vintage vehicles, pony games and classes, as well as bouncy castles, face painting and crazy golf in the kids’ zone. All this and plenty of great music and excellent food to keep a smile on everyone’s face. corksummershow.com

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DESIGN

Roaring Success Echoes of French chanson and a fug of Gitanes hover over Hamburg’s Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg (MKG) where a 150-strong collection celebrates Parisian graphic design during the Jazz Age. Art Deco: Graphic Design from Paris showcases works by the crème de la crème of the era, including Paul Poiret fashion illustrations, posters, magazine ads, pochoir (stencil) prints and lithographs, including excerpts from Paul Colin’s vibrant portfolio promoting Josephine Baker and her dance company La Revue Nègre, above. Until September 30. mkg-hamburg.de

© PETROVSKY RAMONE

ARTS

FESTIVAL

Boston Glee Party Raise a glass and join the Independence Day weekend celebrations at the annual Boston Harborfest. Taking place from June 29 to July 1, the festival celebrates Boston’s harbour and history with a range of activities, from Freedom Trail walks to the yummy Chowderfest to please all ages and tastebuds. bostonharborfest.com

PAINTING

FACE FORWARD

A new exhibition called Face to Face, featuring portraits by painter Anthony Palliser of iconic figures in Irish public life, is on display at Farmleigh Gallery in Dublin’s Phoenix Park from June 1 until September 1. Palliser, a close friend of the late art collector Garech de Brún, met and befriended his subjects over many years and this exhibition features 60 familiar faces, including Seamus Heaney, Liam Neeson, Sinéad Cusack, Brian Friel, right, Jonathan Rhys Meyers and Garech de Brún himself. farmleigh.ie

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DUTCH GOLD

The Holland Festival set in Amsterdam celebrates international performing arts with a kookily captivating cavalcade of theatre, dance, installation and big-name concerts from June 7 to July 1.

Featuring internationally established acts and providing a springboard for head-hunted new talent, the festival is a magnet for the curiously creative and the culturally innovative. Running since 1947, the event is also a smooth-running dream with events being staged citywide in public and private spaces. A luminous highlight this year is choreographer David Dawson’s balletic interpretation of Tristan + Isolde, pictured. hollandfestival.nl

DIASPORA

LA WOMAN

TRACIE SPENCE

First finding fame in the BBC series Ballykissangel, Victoria Smurfit most recently appeared in the second series of ITV’s crime drama Marcella and won Best Supporting Actress at the 2018 IFTAs for her role in the American film The Lears, opposite Bruce Dern. She also stars in The Secret Market, a short film supported by the Aer Lingus Takeoff Foundation that’s available to watch as part of inflight entertainment – turn to page 132.

When did you first realise that you wanted to get into acting?

As a small kid I used to peek behind the clunky old TV looking for where Laura Ingalls [Little House on the Prairie] was running down the grassy knoll from.

I thought it was a window to life.

I wanted to be Mr Benn and race in to a fancy dress shop and become a knight in shining armour or be transported to Medieval times. When I watched, I believed. It was only later at school in England, as a shy teen, that theatre studies was introduced as an A-level subject – it seemed like a non-show-off way to try it. I fell in love with Strindberg’s Miss Julie and that was it: hooked. And I became a show-off.

Biggest career challenge?

There are constant challenges in the business. Learning new disciplines, such as martial arts and stage combat, are a joy, but the most exhausting thing is the rejection. For every gig I get I will have been told “No” many times previously. You have to rally and choose to believe it’s their loss.

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How did you prepare for the role of Dr Amy McCarthy in The Secret Market? The director Garret Daly came to me with the premise and an early draft and I threw in my two cents to add the female perspective on it. I play a lot of “big”, evil characters now I’m older, so it was lovely to just exist as a person in a piece. Amy is a successful complex woman with stories to hide.

What was it like to be back shooting in Ireland? Shooting back home is like throwing on your favourite pair of shoes.

Comfy, easy and the crew are always the best you’ll find. I was able to enjoy work despite the long hours and the curveballs that inevitably come. That and access to Tayto, I can’t lie.

Do you have a dream role or character that you would like to play? Besides wanting to play Dr Amy in a full-length feature, I would love to get my teeth into a lawyer part. The boss, the head of the law firm, finding ways to cut corners and manipulate the truth to get what she wants.

Someone always hiding, finding the shadows but publicly on her game. I also think I have to be a warrior queen at some point – broken, messy, violent, fair and kind leading her people to salvation. Yup, I fancy that.

Biggest culture shock swapping London for LA? LA is a nutty place. There’s opportunity, a vast sea of people to meet and learn from, there’s open-mindedness and a lack of judgment here. All that also brings a disconnection from folk that we Irish are not used to. We love to smile, connect, make pals, tell stories … it’s what we do. I struggled at first, when I realised nothing that had come before in my life or career bore any relevance here. You start anew and have to climb the ladder from the bottom again. But I love LA – the kooks with a wolf on their Harleys, the ladies with pooches in prams, the men with face-lifts and that there is room for you to be whatever the hell you want to be.

What do you miss about Dublin?

So much. Popping round for a cuppa, bumping into people

on the street, always knowing someone will know someone who can help. Family, friends, decent tea, laughing ’til you’re almost sick. Being part of a community that cares. Tayto, brack, long wet walks on the beach, a hot port in an old pub, roast dinner, the kind Gardaí, the Sunday papers, no guns … I could go on.

Where are your favourite downtime spots back in Ireland? Hanging out at Dylan Bradshaw’s for gossip and gruaig [hair], The K Club, Doheny & Nesbitt for a pint, an M&S sandwich in St Stephen’s Green and my best bud Taryn Casey’s house with jammies.

Favourite places to visit in LA for a bite to eat? Brentwood Country Mart for a chicken salad and to watch the Gwyneth Paltrow wannabes. Back on the beach on the Pacific Coast Highway for quesadillas and sea watching, The Aussie Pie Factory on main street in Santa Monica.

All the food trucks that line the Pacific Palisades Bluffs. The burritos are to die for.

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THEATRE

Purrfect Casting

You’ll be lucky to get a backrow ticket to see Martin McDonagh’s The Lieutenant of Inishmore, due to Poldark’s Aidan Turner playing the lead. Expect a full house every night as audiences cackle their way through this pitch-black, bloodbath comedy set in Co Galway in 1993 during the Northern Ireland peace process.

Turner plays Padraic, a man so violent that even the IRA disowns him – but who values the life of the family cat. Cue a dad vs son showdown and a lot of wonderfully inappropriate humour. Directed

by Michael Grandage, the play runs from June 23 to September 8 at London’s Noel Coward Theatre. ticket.londontheatre.co.uk

LITERATURE

WRITE STUFF

Hibernia ripples her literary thews this month with a volume of hip happenings devoted to the written word.

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Coming Home: Art and the Great Hunger is a touring show of 50 artworks from Ireland’s Great Hunger Museum in Connecticut that honours victims of the Irish Famine. On display at Dublin Castle’s Coach House until June 30, then in West Cork Arts Centre, Skibbereen from July 20 to October 13 and, finally, at Derry’s Glassworks from January to March 2019. artandthegreathunger.org MUSIC Dancing Queens With summer (technically) upon us so comes an epic festival season and June signals the launch of some of the best music events in Ireland. Take your pick from Vantastival (vantastival.com) on June 1-3; Forbidden Fruit (forbiddenfruit.ie) on June 2-4; Cork’s Live at the Marquee (aikenpromotions.com) from June 7 to July 14, and a bevy of acts at Body & Soul (bodyandsoul.ie) and Sea Sessions (seasessions.com) on June 22-24.

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Travel writers (that’s a thing?) embark!

The Immrama Festival of Travel Writing is about to set sail/take off/ swipe its Leap card. Join the journey in heavenly and historic Lismore, Co Waterford, where luminaries of the long-distance lope share packing tips and prosaic advice through workshops, talks and … a Gregorian mass. June 13-17; lismore-immrama.com.

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A partly tweedy crowd assemble annually in the genuinely charming Borris, Co Carlow, for literary swaggerfest Borris House Festival of Writing & Ideas. Experience the frisson of coming tête-à-tête with literary behemoths such as Margaret Atwood and native hero Enda Walsh.

Camping permitted. June 8-10; festivalofwritingandideas.com.

In deepest South Co Dublin, the pastel-jumpered hamlet of Dalkey delivers a “global names; local vibe” via the Dalkey Book Festival, where adherents to semi-colons – and their masters’ voices – will cheer on a topnotch roster of talent, from Lionel Shriver to Steven Pinker. June 14-17; dalkeybookfestival.org.

Go to Kells! The Hinterland Festival of Literature and Arts rewards intrepid attendees with a line-up discussing food, sport, history, politics, journalism, architecture, law, music and more. Big-Lit guests include the perma-quippy Colm Tóibín and the critically acclaimed Maggie O’Farrell, among many other writerly elites. June 21-24; hinterland.ie.

Leading the Way in Legal Innovation Matheson is the highest ranked Irish law firm in the Financial Times Innovative Lawyers Report, in addition to being ranked by the FT in the top 20 most innovative law firms in Europe. This achievement reflects the high standards of service which we provide to our clients, and the breadth of the firm’s expertise across a number of complex legal matters.

Matheson is the only Irish law firm commended by the FT for innovation in new products and services; strategy and changing behaviour; and collaboration.

Pictured above are some of the Matheson partners who represented the firm in this year’s FT Innovative Lawyers awards programme, from across our practice in the areas of Litigation and Dispute Resolution, Financial

Ranked in the Top 20 Most Innovative Law Firms in Europe Ranked in the Top 10 Most Innovative Law Firms in Europe for New Products and Services Ranked in the Top 10 Most Innovative Law Firms in Europe for Dispute Resolution Ranked in the Top 10 Most Innovative Law Firms in Europe for Collaboration - FT Innovative Lawyers 2017 Report

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Check in

DINNER

LA CABRA MADRID

One of the most special meals I’ve ever had was at La Cabra in Madrid with my husband for our first wedding anniversary. The restaurant had a Michelin star at the time we visited and chef Javier Aranda has since been awarded a second. We had a tasting menu served in a private room and each course was a surprise – it was only at the end of the meal that we were shown the menu. Javier Aranda prepared the amuse-bouche at the table on mini grills and it was one of the most incredible culinary experiences. A must when visiting Madrid. chefjavieraranda.com

FOOD FLIGHT

LUNCH

THE LANGHAM LONDON

London is one of my favourite cities to visit and for me, no trip is complete without afternoon tea here – it’s well worth skipping lunch for.

It’s consistently great – the menu is delicious, the atmosphere is relaxed and the service is impeccable. I love the tradition and experience so it’s a nice, quiet way to escape from busy London. I never really “switch off” when I’m away – I’m always looking for new inspiration and The Langham certainly sets the bar high. langhamhotels.com

Since 2010, Tipperary native Paula Stakelum has been delighting guests as Ashford Castle’s executive pastry chef. Each of her unique creations is designed to offer a taste of Ashford, with ingredients foraged on the historic estate, from pine tips to rare crab apples. Recently, Paula became the first Irish pastry chef to reach the final of the international Valrhona C3 Competition, which takes place in Brooklyn, New York this October.

DRINKS

LEMON TREE CORFU

About a half hour from Corfu airport, in a tiny village called Agios Gordios, is the most amazing cocktail bar called Lemon Tree. The outdoor bar is surrounded by lemon trees and the fresh cocktails are made using the citrus fruits from the trees all around the bar. There is no set menu – the barman will talk to you, get a feel for the type of drink you like and make it fresh for you. I had the best Gin Fizz relaxing underneath the stars and lemon trees. lemontreecorfu.com

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BRUNCH

PIERRE HERMÉ PARIS

When I was in Paris for the Valrhona C3 Competition, I treated myself to breakfast at Pierre Hermé on Le Champs-Élysées. They describe themselves as a “temple of gluttony” and it is just that – the pastries are simply exquisite and as a pastry chef I do have quite high standards!

It was my first visit to Pierre Hermé so we indulged in a melt-in-yourmouth croissant, pain au chocolat and a beautiful macaron with fresh juice and coffee – a perfectly French start to the day. pierreherme.com

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AN ICHIE TO GO

… Japanese chef Takashi Miyazaki has been impressing the diners of Cork, and Ireland, with his Miyazaki restaurant since 2015. It’s mainly a takeaway joint, but visitors are sometimes lucky enough to nab a spot at the counter. His latest project, Ichigo Ichie, opened in April and offers guests another exclusive edition: a rare opportunity to experience a traditional Japanese kaiseki dinner via a 12-course tasting menu, which has become the talk of the town. ichigoichie.ie MM

DARAGH MC SWEENEY / PROVISION

3 LINGERWORTHY IRISH TASTING MENUS

GRUB’S UP Eoin Higgins and Melanie Mullan have all the news that’s fit to digest.

DUTCH MASTER Netherlander Martijn Kajuiter’s The House menu is a rollercoaster of revelation, featuring hand-selected Irish ingredients, masterfully finessed. At €95 per person, you’ll be hard-pressed to find cooking at this level for such a relatively modest outlay. Meanwhile, its Cliff House Hotel setting is a befitting backdrop for the chef’s plated pyrotechnics. cliffhousehotel.ie

OX FRESH Strict seasonal adherents, Stephen Toman and Alain Kerloc’h met in Alain Passard’s distinguished l’Arpege restaurant in Paris. In Northern Ireland’s (justifiably) most-gushed-about restaurant, OX, in Belfast, the pair employ their Parisian pedigree to alchemise a tasting menu that wows at every turn. oxbelfast.com

TOP SPOT It’s an opulent affair on the

26th floor of the Beekman Tower, New York, where the Ophelia lounge has been revived with a luxe interior to match its standout view. Classics are given a twist by head mixologist Amir Babayoff, who has also created a Signature Cocktails menu that features some natty ingredients: smoked Jamaican peppers, plum bitters ...

The kitchen offers a chic selection of small plates too that include a finger-licking lobster roll and some insanely peckable pork belly sliders. opheliany.com MM

BEST WESTERN Galway’s Aniar is one of a basketful of trailblazing restaurants that has pinned the City of Tribes firmly onto Ireland’s Good Food road map. Choose from six-, eight-, or ten-course tasting menus – chef JP McMahon’s oeuvre is creative, showcasing his ability to surprise and delight with ingredients local and wild. aniarrestaurant.ie EH

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JOLEEN CRONINSION

MIDSUMMER DREAM

It’s not every day that a group of city restaurants get together and shut down one of the city’s main streets to cook guests a dinner showcasing the produce and culinary charm of their county. But on June 24 Cork’s Long Table will do just that. Now in its third year, ten of the city’s best restaurants – including The Farmgate Café and The Rocketman – will serve 420 guests as part of Cork’s Midsummer Festival with a gastronomic feast on the city’s South Mall. corkmidsummer.com MM

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THE GREEN

HOMEMADE FROM HANDCRAFTED CERAMICS TO FORAGED FLORA FOR SKINCARE, MAKE ROOM IN YOUR SUITCASE FOR THESE IRISH GOODIES.

1. BORN SLIPPY

2. HIVE MIND

Like many (most?) potters, Adam Frew revels in the ceramics process as much as the finished articles themselves. We’re loving his elegant, paint daubed/ splattered/dribbled vessels. From £35 at adamfrew.com.

Create a buzz (sorry ...) with a Madeleine Blaine sterling silver bee pendant coated in 18ct gold on a 16-inch silver chain.

From €40 at The Collective on Drury Street, Dublin 2 and at thecollective dublin.ie.

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3. QUILTY PLEASURE Made with tender loving care by Kildare craftsman, Garvan de Bruir, these butter-soft leather tablet covers help protect multi-sized devices from japes and scrapes. From €100 at debruir.com.

4. TOAST MASTERED

5. PLANT POWER

6. BAND WIDTH

Drinks trollies and home bars have never been more popular, which means upping your glassware game.

These Waterford Crystal Lismore Diamond Martini glasses (set of two) are suitably snazzy. €130 at waterford.eu.

Atlantic seaweed, Irish peat and Carrageen moss are among the goodies in The Well at Cliff – a five-star range of botanical elixirs from Cliff Townhouse/Cliff House Hotel/Cliff at Lyons. From €20 at cliff.ie.

Northern Irish sisters Geraldine and Helen Kane – aka Isle Jewellery – have struck gold with this 9ct black diamond ring, inspired by the night sky around the Mourne Mountains. £240 at isle-jewellery.com.

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5 COOL CAVES TO VISIT Yvonne Gordon goes underground to explore some of Ireland’s subterranean secrets.

MARBLE ARCH CAVES, CO FERMANAGH

What nicer way to arrive in an underground cave system than by boat? It is water itself that carved a route through the Marble Arch Caves by dissolving the limestone rock over time, and a tour here includes a boat journey deep into this fascinating subterranean world full of rivers and waterfalls.

On foot, you’ll navigate various passages that open out into natural chambers full of stalactites, cascades and the giant Porridge Pot, which took just 500,000 years of drips to form. marblearchcavesgeopark.com

MITCHELSTOWN CAVE, CO TIPPERARY

ILLUSTRATION BY TARA O’BRIEN

These caves were discovered by accident in 1833, when a local labourer dropped his crowbar into a crevice and discovered a huge network of chambers and caverns, connected by narrow passages that follow the route of an old stream. This is one of Ireland’s largest cave complexes, with lots of stalactites, stalagmites, calcite pillars, curtains and crystals and a nine-metre-high column, the Tower of Babel. The caves have hosted everything from concerts to a pop-up restaurant. mitchelstowncave.com

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DOOLIN CAVE, CO CLARE

Exploring the rocky karst landscape is what The Burren is all about, so experiencing the world under the limestone flags, as well as above, is a highlight of any visit.

At Doolin Cave, also known as Pol

an Ionáin, the Great Stalactite is the star attraction – and great it is, measuring 7.3 metres, making it Europe’s longest, free-hanging stalactite. What’s also nice about the setting here is the farmland nature trail, which has some rare animal breeds such as pygmy goats. doolincave.ie

AILLWEE CAVE, CO CLARE

A stroll through this underground world, which is also in The Burren, will bring you along a kilometre of subterranean passages, over bridges and past an underground river and waterfall, to view stalactites and stalagmites that are thousands of years old.

Curiously, the cave is also home to the bones of some extinct brown bears and may have been a bear den in times past. Here you can also find the Birds of Prey Centre, with flying displays and hawk walks. aillweecave.ie

DUNMORE CAVE, CO KILKENNY

As you descend the steps into Dunmore Cave, you can look forward to learning about the fascinating blend of geology and history that lies in more than 400 metres of underground passages. Dunmore Cave was first mentioned in the ninth-century Irish Triads as one of the three darkest places in Ireland and recent archaeological finds of silver treasures point to Viking activity from around the year 928.

The underground chambers have some striking calcite formations, such as the Market Cross. visitkilkenny.ie

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican peruses the best new reads and selects literary happenings to look and listen out for.

BRENDAN O’REGAN: IRISH INNOVATOR, VISIONARY & PEACEMAKER BY BRIAN O’CONNELL & CIAN O’CARROLL (Irish Academic Press) “Is that the way it comes from the cows in Ireland?”

Marilyn Monroe sips an Irish coffee, sitting beside husband Arthur Miller, in Shannon airport’s restaurant on November 20, 1956. This fab photo comes from Brian O’Connell’s biography of Brendan O’Regan, the businessman who “made” Shannon airport – managing the restaurant, the hotel and founding the world’s first duty-free shop in a customs free zone – and revolutionised tourism in Ireland (he was chairman of Bord Fáilte) before contributing to the quest for peace in Northern Ireland. JFK, Seán Lemass, Prince Philip, Richard Nixon and Ronald and Nancy Reagan are some of the faces you’ll recognise in the images of travellers through Shannon in this beguiling portrait of a man who helped transform the Irish economy.

PHOTOGRAPHY BALKON by Orhan Pamuk (Steidl, hbk) In winter 2011, NobelPrize-winning Turkish novelist Orhan Pamuk took 8,500 colour photos from his balcony with its panoramic view of Istanbul, the entrance of the Bosphorus, the Old Town, and the surrounding hills. Nearly 500 of these photos are presented here, with an essay by Pamuk on the relationship between seeing and photography, writing and seeing.

PODCAST HIS NAME IS LEO

CONFERRING

SHORT STORIES LAST STORIES by William Trevor (Viking, hbk, ebook) Here are the ten last short stories the wordsmith wrote before his death in 2016, six of them published for the first time. As ever with Trevor, these are private, domestic tales, insights into the lives of ordinary people: a young girl who finds that the mother she believed dead is alive; a piano teacher who accepts her pupil’s theft; a tutor and his student meeting up years after lessons ended.

ESSAYS CALYPSO by David Sedaris (Little, Brown, hbk, ebook) The humourist’s first collection of essays in five years (not counting the publication of his diaries last year) is wry, personal and very American. Here he is writing on the beach house in Carolina where he grew up, his sister’s suicide, his dad’s advancing age, the 2016 US presidential election, getting a stomach bug on a book tour and more. One of his best collections yet.

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The fourth Dublin Writers’ Conference this June 22-24 comes with a promise to help writers improve their craft, publish successfully, and plan the marketing necessary for any author to achieve success, whether traditionallyor self-published. The theme of this year’s event is “Finding New Voices” and will feature publishing industry talent spotters from the United States and the UK. Tickets start at €58 for a one-day session. thedublinwriters conference.com

June 16 – the day James Joyce sent Leopold Bloom walking around Dublin – is celebrated across the world, in real life and virtually.

For the truly dedicated, the late Frank Delaney’s weekly podcast Re:Joyce on PlayerFM goes through Ulysses page by page, discussing the allusions, historical context and references in each passage.

Starting in 2010, Delaney had recorded 368 segments (between five and 30 minutes each) and was halfway through the book, with two million downloads and counting, when he died last February. Elsewhere, Dublin’s Abbey Theatre presents Dermot Bolger’s adaptation of Ulysses from June 11 until July 21 and Lilliput Press is publishing The Mookse and the Gripes – extracted from Finnegans Wake, this is Joyce’s re-telling of Aesop’s fable of The Fox and the Grapes, with more than 100 illustrations by artist Thomas McNally. bloomsdayfestival.ie

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Most memorable place you’ve visited? Bali, Indonesia. I lived and worked there with my wife Jenny nearly 20 years ago and we were deeply moved by the beauty of the landscape, the perfectly sculpted rice terraces, the hiccupping geckos, the dignity of the people, the ever-present spirituality and music.

Favourite bar for a cocktail? Cask in Cork City. We are very fortunate to have one of the best cocktail bars only 30 minutes from our home.

They change the cocktail menu every three months so the drinks can run in harmony with the seasons. Foraged ingredients and small artisan suppliers give them an abundance of produce to play with. Magic spot.

Favourite minibreak city? Beirut. The Lebanese capital is charming and seductive, and incredibly good value to get to at the moment. The people are friendly, generous and warm-hearted. The food is amazing: dine at the celebrated Tawlet restaurant, where every day a different cook or producer takes over the kitchen with culinary secrets from their area and on Saturday mornings, take in the Souk el Tayeb farmers’ market.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK

Favourite childhood holiday? Dingle, Co

Corkman Justin Green grew up on the grounds of Kerry. My mother was a fanatical salmon the idyllic Ballyvolane House (ballyvolanehouse.ie), fisher and all our summer holidays were which he now runs as a B&B with his wife Jenny – and on a spate river in Co Mayo or at the where he co-founded Bertha’s Revenge gin in May Huts in Sneem, Co Kerry. One year my 2015 with long-time friend Anthony Jackson. Smallgodmother, who lived in France, joined batch and distilled in a converted cattle shed us and put the kibosh on a fishing holiday. on the estate, the spirit has won numerous We rented a cottage in Castlegregory on the awards, including a gold medal at the San Dingle Peninsula instead. The weather was Francisco World Spirits Competition glorious, the landscape was wild and savage, in 2017. ballyvolanespirits.ie

the beaches and surfing were sublime. We surfed every day for two weeks.

Three desert island items?

My beautiful wife Jenny, my terrier Stormy and a Panama hat.

Best hotel you’ve visited? Como Shambhala Estate in Ubud, Bali.

Simply spellbinding. Perched high up in the hills above the Ayung river gorge, the estate is in a misty jungle with lush greenery and waterfalls spread over nine hectares. Amazing architecture which blends into the natural surroundings. The bedrooms are in traditional Indonesian residences and villas, which have been exquisitely designed with their own infinity pools.

The real wow factor is the holistic element, where guests come to detox, de-stress and revitalise.

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E X P E R I E N C E

AUTHENTIC IRISH HOSPITALITY Heavily inspired and influenced by Dublin’s rich literary culture and local heritage, Conrad Dublin features 192 beautifully refurbished guest rooms and suites. Join us on a voyage of discovery at Lemuel’s, relax and enjoy a tasty meal in Alfie Byrne’s or take a seat in the stylish surroundings of The Coburg and experience a true brasserie.

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland | Phone +353-1-602 8900 | ConradDublin.com

CONRADDUBLIN.COM

#STAYINSPIRED

2018

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5 GOOD REASONS ...

… for waking up and smelling Seattle, finds an impressed Lucy White.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SEATTLE four times per week.

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FARM FRESH As well as the Needle, it’s a prerequisite to visit Pike Place Market.

With the proliferation of highfalutin’ veg in every upwardly mobile neighbourhood, you’d be forgiven for thinking that farmers’ markets were a 21st-century trend. But this market – spread across more than three hectares and fronting Elliott Bay – is one of the oldest, continuously operated public farmers’ markets in the US. And far from being pricey or poncey, it was chartered by the City of Seattle to provide services for low-income individuals, which it maintains to this day, including affordable housing and even a hotel. pikeplacemarket.org JET SET Eleven kilometres south of Downtown, the Museum of Flight is the largest private air and space

museum in the world and has plenty to inspire, entertain and inform more than just plane spotters. The museum’s vast collection includes the world’s first fighter plane and America’s first presidential jet, Air Force One, used by the likes of LBJ and JFK. There’s also one of only four Concordes displayed outside Europe, the world’s only full-scale NASA Space Shuttle Trainer and a faithful reproduction of Amelia Earhart’s ill-fated Lockheed Model 10-E Electra. museumofflight.org NUTS LANDING If the Museum of Flight whets your appetite for more aviation, maximise your Pacific Northwest experience with a seaplane tour. Kenmore Air is one such operator, whose Scenic Tours are priced from $99 for 20 minutes or $215 for an approximately two-hour Ride-Along jaunt over the San Juan Islands.

Either trip will undoubtedly make you feel like a superstar as you gently land on water after taking in some extraordinary mountains-tosea scenery around Puget Sound. kenmoreair.com ROCK OF AGES The aluminium and steel façade is unmistakably Frank Gehry – and the Museum of Pop Culture is exactly what it says on the tin. This multipurpose arts centre spotlights international household names from across the genres, from Bowie and Hendrix to horror movies and superheroes, with a healthy fixation on Kurt Cobain. The exhibition Nirvana: Taking Punk to the Masses – back on home turf after a world tour – is worth the ticket price alone, with Gen-Xers gazing wistfully at some 200 artefacts, photographs, footage and sound installations; reminders of how sanitised rock and pop music has become. mopop.org

ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN

TUNNEL VISION It goes without saying that first-timers to Seattle will visit the Space Needle but how about juxtaposing this lofty landmark with a subterranean tour of the city? Today’s network of underground passageways was once at ground level but, after the Great Fire of 1889, the city’s streets were elevated to prevent tideland flooding and to improve sanitation. A section of covert tunnels has been made safe for guided tours, the oldest of which is Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour, which has been exposing Seattle’s nether regions since the 1960s. Expect plenty of potty humour with the potted history. $22 for 75 minutes. undergroundtour.com

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THE

RIJK MOVE

Niamh O’Donoghue finds a home from home in Amsterdam that’s at once grand and laid-back. ou’d easily mistake 384 Keizersgracht for a lavish entryway to an embassy residence. In fact I almost did, until the concierge spotted my wheelie case rat-tatting up and down the cobbled, central canal belt more times than necessary.

All this time, The Dylan Hotel, an exuberant yet classic period gable property, is peeking at me from behind an imposing archway – an original feature from the 18th century.

Crossing The Dylan’s threshold is a multi-sensory experience.

After the grand porch and the marbled reception, the next thing that strikes me is the aroma – the French-made Hippie Rose eau de parfum by Heeley. It puts me in mind of visiting a fictional, flamboyant but modest aunt – the one with the grand house, except here it’s okay to touch the ornaments and use the furniture.

My luggage is whisked away with care, to a double-height junior suite located in the oldest part of the building overlooking the Keizersgracht canal. Each room is unique but the design remains contemporary throughout.

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Tom Ford Sheer Cheek Duo, €67 at brownthomas.com

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Before starting life as The Dylan, the site was home to a popular theatre in the 1600s, the Duytsche Academie, where none other than Antonio Vivaldi conducted the orchestra during its 100th anniversary. A few decades later the wooden structure was replaced by a concrete theatre – which sadly burnt down, mid-performance, in 1772.

The Regents of the Roman Catholic Church bought the site, retaining ownership until 1998, when the entire building was transformed into the luxury hotel it is today.

Family-run, it’s now a member of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World and it feels every bit so, but more still: it has grandeur not arrogance, it’s stylish not prudish and the space feels lived in. The glory of 18th-century Amsterdam lives on here, albeit with a beautifully modern twist.

The prize jewel of the hotel is the Michelin-star Vinkeles, an upscale restaurant serving French cuisine in the building’s atmospheric former bakery. Unfortunately for me, there’s a six-week waiting list to sit at one of 30 seats in the swank space, but the hotel’s resident brasserie Occo serves up an equally delightful plate.

Turks & Caicos Cookies and Cream Sunglasses, €213.50 at eu.paredeyewear.com

Rains MSN Bag, €67 at rains.com

L’Occitane Ultra ThirstQuenching Gel (50ml), €29 at loccitane.com

Boutique luxury – the intimate and stylish rooms at the Dylan start from €394 per night. dylanamsterdam. com

Set within the UNESCOprotected Grachtengordel, the city’s central canal belt and near the chic shopping district, “The Nine Streets” (De Negen Straatjes), The Dylan is perfectly placed. Drop into Dutch jean-makers Denham (denhamthejeanmaker.com) on Runstraat 17, for a modern denim update or, if preloved is what you crave, seek out La Doyenne Vintage (ladoyennevintage.com) for rare Chanel and classic Hermès.

Afterwards, the museum district has a multitude of culinary delights to offer every taste bud. Drop

by Saturnino for arguably the most authentic Italian experience outside Rome (saturnino.nl) or, for something sweet, don’t miss out on Mook Pancakes (short for “Mokum”, which is slang for Amsterdam; mookpancakes.nl) where there’s sweet and savoury choices, while listening to oldschool hip-hop legends on repeat.

Capulet & Montague Acrylic Drop Earrings, €55 at Om Diva, Drury Street, Dublin 2

Frankie Embellished Sliders, €68 at topshop.com

titanic the Legend the Story

ExplorE thE sights, sounds and storiEs of rMs titanic at this world lEading visitor attraction in thE city whErE it all BEgan, BElfast, northErn irEland.

B o o k n o w at t i ta n i c b e l fas t.c o m

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THE GREAT OUTDOORS Seebad Enge is the lake lido of choice for Zurich’s sophisticates. Open from spring to early autumn, this Badi offers more than just a platform to show off summer-honed bodies. For a small entrance fee, visitors can enjoy yoga classes, Ving Tsun (kung fu) and swimming lessons with on-site coaches. At night the venue turns into a hip bar with DJs and live music concerts.

(Mythenquay 9, +41 44 201 3889; seebadenge.ch)

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

Writer Stefan HottingerBehmer reveals the surprisingly diverse charms of Continental Europe’s banking powerhouse.

MORE ABOUT STEFAN Currently based in Dubai, Swiss-Brazilian writer and consultant Stefan HottingerBehmer lived in Zurich for almost a decade. A former publisher of Vogue Arabia magazine, he has learned to love his ancestral home on the banks of the river Limmat and regularly returns to write about its secret sweet spots.

RETAIL THERAPY A former silk trading company, enSoie is one of the city’s oldest ateliers and concept stores located in a small alleyway at the foot of the steps that lead to Lindenhof, one of the Old Town’s main squares. This Swiss family business curates sustainable bits and bobs, from silk scarves to ceramics and jewellery, all designed in-house and produced respecting traditional techniques and craftsmanship.

(Strehlgasse 26, +41 44 211 5902; ensoie.com)

THE NIGHTSPOT Fact: parts of Finnegans Wake and Ulysses were written in Zurich and James Joyce found his final resting place here. Named in his honour, the James Joyce bar and restaurant features original furnishings salvaged from Dublin’s former Jury’s Hotel antique bar (on the Dame Street site where the Central Bank now sits), which was frequented by the novelist.

(Pelikanstrasse 8, +41 44 221 1828; jamesjoyce.ch) THE RESTAURANT Hiltl, the first and oldest continuously operating vegetarian restaurant in the world, has been dishing up healthy fare since 1898. Its concrete floors and lofty fixtures contrast with warm multi-print fabrics. Indulge in a buffet-style feast downstairs and flavourful à la carte menu upstairs – and be sure to stop by next door at Switzerland’s first veggie “butchery”, to stock up on non-meat treats. (Sihlstrasse 28, +41 44 227 7000; hiltl.ch)

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© ZÜRICH TOURISM

ZURICH

THE MUST-VISIT Part of the University of Zurich, the Botanical Garden is nestled in one of the city’s swankiest neighbourhoods. Stroll up the hill from the lake in the Seefeld district and experience Zurich’s quaint residential vibes, away from the tourist tracks. Smell the scent of alpine roses and enjoy the incredible views over the lake through century-old pine trees. (Zollikerstrasse 107, +41 44 634 8461; bg.uzh.ch)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to ZURICH up to ten times per week.

The Collection

By Amy Huberman

www.n e wbridge silv e rw ar e. com

INTERVIEW

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B OX

FRESH

Away from friends and family, Irish boxing champion Katie Taylor misses home but is bobbing and weaving with steely determination and a keen eye on her next prize.

WORDS CLÍONA FOLEY PHOTOGRAPHS RICH GILLIGAN

A

grey American mail-box with a playful “CAUTION: BOXERS” sign attached is the only hint as to where Irish sporting icon Katie Taylor plies her trade these days, far from home and in relative anonymity. It stands outside a low-slung, red-brick industrial building in a sleepy residential street in Manchester, Connecticut. Flanked by a wood-clad church and a little gift shop, it looks straight out of a Norman Rockwell painting and around the back is the Ring of Champions (ROC) Boxing Club. It’s a nofrills boxing gym with bare brick walls, two small rings, punch-bags, a few free weights and some battered lockers.

The cost of monthly “dues” (fees) are simply chalked up on the back of a door. It is decidedly old school and that is exactly how Taylor likes it.

Her groundbreaking Olympic gold (2012), five World and six European lightweight titles garnered global respect and massive status for women’s amateur boxing. Now the 31-year-old is on a mission to do exactly the same for the

female pro game, declaring her desire “to continue to make history and break barriers in my sport”.

Yet when she decided to go professional after an emotionally bruising Rio Olympics there were fears that Taylor’s almost counterintuitively gentle personality and lack of hubris outside the ring might get trampled by a business that can be so crass and disposable.

However, since turning pro in late 2016 she has blazed another sporting trail, winning the WBA World lightweight title inside a year and adding the IBF belt since in her unbeaten nine-fight record. A crowd of 50,000, including Irish actor Colin Farrell who popped into the dressing room beforehand to wish her luck, watched her first world victory in Cardiff last October.

But this whirlwind success and her time in the USA, where she spends several months in camp before each big fight, has not changed her. Wearing black skinny jeans, black Converse trainers and a navy BoxRaw sweatshirt, the petite Bray star is as unobtrusive and humble as ever. She is ROC’s only Olympic and World champion yet you’d never AERLINGUS.COM |

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INTERVIEW

know that. The walls are covered with cuttings and belts won by the best local fighters and American and Puerto Rican flags hang from the rafters, but there isn’t an Irish tricolour in sight nor one mention of Taylor anywhere. The only clue is on her car keys; a tiny brass boxing glove key ring with the KT logo, part of her new sports clothing line with popular boxing brand Rival.

During her teens Taylor, who also starred at football for Ireland, passed up on several soccer scholarship offers from USA universities. Local boxing trainer Ross Enamait is the reason she’s here now.

“I used to have his books around my house when I was growing up.

I knew of him as a great trainer,

everyone in the boxing world would know of Ross and after the Rio Olympics I needed some sort of change,” she explains. “I wasn’t even sure if I wanted to go pro at that stage but I knew from the get-go that he was the coach for me. We just gelled straight away.

“In that first week I felt improvement straight away in my boxing. It was the first time in a long time I really enjoyed it,” she admits. Her first visit was typically low-key and a little hairy. “I flew to Boston and rented a car but it was an automatic and it was my first time to drive on the other side of the road so, to be honest, I’m lucky I’m alive right now,” she grins.

Fortunately, her move coincided

Less red tape ... Taylor’s new Stateside set-up has allowed the athlete to focus on her next step without distraction.

“I wasn’t even sure if I wanted to go pro at that stage but I knew from the get-go that he was the coach for me.”

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with Aer Lingus starting a direct flight to Hartford’s Bradley International Airport, just a 20-minute drive away, which has made life a lot easier for her and her family. She lives alone in a one-bedroom apartment in a small town ten minutes away but mum Brigid, sister Sarah and nephew Zion (three) have just been over and visit regularly. “It’s great when I get to see the family because that really is the biggest sacrifice I make.

That’s the hardest thing but I know this is where I’m supposed to be and everyone at home knows that as well.”

She speaks to family daily and “my local supermarket actually has an Irish aisle and sells things like Barry’s Tea. It’s easy to keep up to date with home now. The one thing you’d miss maybe is sitting down to watch the odd match, like the GAA or the rugby at the weekend.

I do miss those big events but I can sometimes access them on the RTÉ Player.”

She travels to other gyms around Connecticut for additional sparring with other female pros but most of her training is at ROC alongside men, with whom she has sparred her entire career. She was impressed with the immediate respect they gave her, though they still love to tease her about her accent. “In fairness, sometimes we probably do need subtitles when we’re talking!

But this is the perfect environment for me because I’ve a great trainer, am surrounded by top-class pros every single day and have a chance to share the ring with them as well.”

Where she lives is very peaceful, with some lovely wooded walking trails, but are the benefits of her new set-up not counter-balanced by cultural differences or loneliness for a woman who is such a selfconfessed home bird? “I found the first few months very lonely because I didn’t have many people around me but I found a great church locally. There’s actually an awful lot of churches here so for the first few months I was kind of churchhopping,” the devout Christian smiles. “The minute I walked into this one I knew it was for me.

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INTERVIEW

Aer Lingus is delighted to announce its newest brand ambassador: world champion Katie Taylor. Katie is joining Aer Lingus to support Special Olympic Ireland Games in Dublin this June 14-17, where she’s hosting a mentoring session with some of the athletes in advance of the #IrelandGames and passing on tips and guidance on coping with winning and losing, and how to be your best self. Aer Lingus has partnered with the Games for over 15 years, with many colleagues volunteering at the event.

THE LIKES OF KATIE TAYLOR FOOD “I’m actually a real

creature of habit and not too adventurous out here, probably because as an athlete I have to eat just a really simple, healthy diet. The portions here are way too big though. I usually have to get some of it boxed up to bring home afterwards.”

TV/FILMS “I’m not a big TV watcher, we’d never really have had it on at home except

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for sport. I have Netflix here and am watching the US Series of The Office at the moment. Their documentaries are also great. I watched Icarus recently and that was mind-boggling.”

great discipline to have. Even when I don’t feel like reading it’s always good to force yourself to do it because I always get something from it.

I feel it’s a great way to start the day.”

BOOKS “What I read most is the Bible. It’s only about ten minutes every day – a block of Old Testament, a bit of New Testament and maybe a proverb or psalm – but it’s a

MUSIC “I tend to listen to

whatever is in the charts, a little bit of everything really, but I also listen to a lot of (modern) worship music like Hillsong or Bethel. My car is

usually tuned into a Christian music station.”

TREATS “I am known as a chocaholic. That’s probably been my biggest indulgence over the years. Nothing else tastes like Irish chocolate.

Nothing else tastes like Irish Cadbury’s and I’m a big Maltesers fan too. If my family ever want to buy me a present they know anything with Maltesers will go down well.”

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There’s a real sense of community and family in it. Through it I now have a group of really solid friends, absolutely super people who I’d have been lost without.

“But I really live the same lifestyle here that I do at home – train, rest, train,” she stresses of her twice-daily routine. Sunday is her only day off, when it’s church first and then hanging out with her new friends, enjoying meals out and the cinema. They’ve all travelled down to Brooklyn for her big fights but there are peals of laughter when she’s asked if she ever cooks anything Irish for them? “No, I wouldn’t do that to anyone! If anyone’s coming to my apartment I order food in. It’s not even worth the stress for me to be honest. I am definitely not a cook.”

Taylor’s burgeoning pro career and reputation is now soaring and she seems happy and relaxed in her new home from home. “It is nice to be anonymous. I always lived a very quiet life at home but it is freeing in a way to walk around unrecognised and what’s great is that this allows me to be so focused on my training.”

A TV documentary – the working title is Comeback – about her new life is in the offing and Taylor’s legions of fans hope 2018 will also include her long-awaited first pro fight on Irish soil. Right now, it feels like Ireland’s Queen of the Ring has never been away.

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Living Heritage VISITOR CENTRE MUSEUM OF STYLE ICONS CAFÉ CARLETON

IN

BEER

FINISHED STOUT

FOR RICH, CHOCOLATEY NOTES.

fever

CABIN Fashion designer Louise Kennedy is revisiting the Aer Lingus uniform for the second time in 20 years, crafting a brand-new look that combines beauty and utility. We take a sneak peek into the design process.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MELANIE MNULLAN

WORDS MARIE KELLY

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SPECIAL | AER LINGUS UNIFORM

I

rish fashion designer Louise Kennedy is in good company.

From Emilio Pucci and Pierre Balmain to Cristobel Balenciaga and Christian Lacroix, Kennedy is one of several notable international designers who have swapped one runway for another and created uniforms for airline cabin crew and ground staff. Most recently, Zac Posen joined the flight club two years ago when he decked out Delta staff in shades of “Passport Plum”. Will Kennedy be adorning Aer Lingus staff with “Airline Avocado”? A paradigm of professional discretion, she is giving nothing away at this early stage. All she will say is that it won’t be Kelly Green.

Tipperary-born Kennedy stands alone in Irish history as designer of the longest-running Aer Lingus uniform – the elegant teal green two-piece you see before you today – which has graced the aisles of Aer Lingus aeroplanes for two full decades since 1998.

Kennedy explains that she was just as excited to win the pitch second time around. “I was on a business trip to New York and I was walking down Madison Avenue when the call came in,” she explains with obvious excitement in

THE EVOLUTION OF THE AER LINGUS UNIFORM

her voice. “I could not get back to The Carlyle quickly enough to tell the girls!” Kennedy says they will celebrate when the new uniform is complete (it’s due to be revealed in spring next year) but they did toast their win. “We couldn’t not mark the occasion with a glass of champagne,” she laughs.

I doubt very much that Sybil Connolly, designer of the first Aer Lingus cabin crew uniform in 1945, had to pitch alongside nine other companies and present before a committee of 22 people representing all aspects of the airline (cabin crew, ground crew, management, health and safety ...), as Kennedy did. The demands of the pitch reflect the depth of the design challenge. How do you combine beauty and utility at 40,000 feet up? Can clean lines and modern tailoring marry with the easy-care, quick-dry, creaseresistant requirements of a cabin crew’s uniform? How does Kennedy bring her premium aesthetic to a corporate uniform that must function for a multitude of heights and shapes and in every climate imaginable?

“It’s fascinating how things have progressed in 20 years,” reflects Kennedy. “The company has grown

1945

1948

1958

1963

1966

1970

The first Aer Lingus uniform, designed by Sybil Connolly, debuts on flights to Liverpool and London.

Bye-bye brown: the first iteration of the iconic green uniform – a jacket and skirt tweed suit – is introduced.

Irene Gilbert creates a green and orange fleck tweed suit with a lemon blouse and matching gloves.

A three-piece navy and green check suit made from Magee Donegal tweed, designed by Neillí Mulcahy.

Irene Gilbert is commissioned for a second time, creating a green suit with a pillbox hat and gloves.

The Aer Lingus uniform is redesigned by Digby Morton and a green pinafore dress replaces the two-piece.

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so much.” Since the late 1990s, Aer Lingus has introduced so many new routes, from Pula and Montpellier to Toronto, Miami and Seattle.

“Functionality has always been key but today that means a lot more than just ease of care and movement – these men and women have rigorous roles − it refers to safety, too. From aprons and scarves to men’s ties, nothing can compromise the crew’s safety,” she says. This is a world away from the concerns of Kennedy’s elegant couturier on Merrion Square in Dublin, where she dresses clients from President Michael D Higgins’ wife Sabina to Grammy award-winning singer/ songwriter Enya, in the finest fabrics and most elegant silhouettes.

The reality of creating a cohesive collection that includes both menswear and womenswear was another fresh challenge for the award-winning designer, as there simply wasn’t anything like the number of male cabin crew on Aer Lingus flights when Kennedy designed the uniform first time round. In fact, there are over two and a half times more men stewarding flights today than there were in 2000. It helps that the male staff are as particular about their likes and

dislikes as their female colleagues.

From the number of buttons on a jacket to the texture of their shirts, there’s been no shortage of input from them, reveals Kennedy.

One thing that hasn’t changed in the past 20 years, however − well, 70 years in fact − is the Aer

Opposite page, press clippings show early iterations of the uniform.

Above, a meeting of styles, Aer Lingus crew model past uniforms.

1975

1986

1990

1998

1998

2019

Danish-born, Dublinbased designer Ib Jorgensen creates a new-look uniform, which includes a scarf.

Jorgensen redesigns the uniform, retaining a scarf but adding a navy velvet beret (not shown).

Paul Costelloe designs a summer and winter uniform of a straight navy jacket with a green and blue striped skirt.

Louise Kennedy’s first Aer Lingus uniforms take to the skies, for men and women. Little did Louise know at the time that they would be the airline’s longest-running ensemble and that her “teal green” hue would become synonymous with the brand.

Louise Kennedy’s second Aer Lingus uniforms will be unveiled. Watch this (air) space …

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SPECIAL | AER LINGUS UNIFORM

Flight club – the evolving Aer Lingus uniform has often taken centre stage in the airline’s advertising campaigns. Below right, taking care of guests aboard a Lockheed L749 Constellation.

Lingus staff’s affection for the colour green. “Employees across the entire company wanted to keep the traditional green hue,” explains Kennedy. “Our task is to modernise it.” The first incarnation of an Aer Lingus cabin crew rigout was actually a toffee-coloured, singlebreasted skirt suit and boat-shaped hat. It was a uniform very much of its time; airline outfits postWorld War II were conservative, came in no-nonsense neutrals and were modelled on the military uniforms of the day, and as such were intended to project authority, competency and proficiency.

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In the late 1950s and 1960s, however, airline stewards became “air hostesses” and with a change in title came a change in perception.

These women were no longer just caretakers, but glamorous chaperones, and the uniforms began to reflect this, both in Ireland and abroad. In 1965, Italian designer Emilio Pucci created “jelly bean” prints and transparent helmets for the now defunct Braniff International Airways. These “rain domes” were created to protect the hostesses’ heavily hairsprayed hairdos while walking from the terminal building to the plane; Kennedy,

being the tastemaker that she is, is thinking more along the lines of a hooded coat. The following year Irish couturier Irene Gilbert injected the Aer Lingus uniform with a touch of Jackie O chic, designing a mini skirt and pillbox hat in the style of the former First Lady.

Uniforms were then becoming as stylish as they were serviceable.

Kennedy’s brief today, as it was 20 years ago, is to create a modern uniform that reflects a contemporary airline by marrying her bespoke signature with the mass-produced requirements of a corporate entity. New fabrics, she explains, will make this a little easier second time round. The designer is working with producers in Spain, Portugal, Paris and Ireland to include more stretch technology. “In my ready-to-wear collection, I use a silk-stretch lining and that’s how you achieve a really lovely level of comfort,” she explains.

Kennedy flies with Aer Lingus weekly and so she has a huge personal affection for the airline and its staff. Extraordinary service and a great sense of humour is how she characterises the airline’s offering.

Having worked on two Aer Lingus outfits, Kennedy says she can’t look at any uniform now without pondering the whys and wherefores of the fabrics, detailing and cuts. Having learnt so much from Kennedy about what it takes to deliver a uniform that marries style and substance, I suspect neither will you or I.

THE

new

RADICALS A new generation of Irish artists, authors and activists is challenging the status quo to help effect social change – some intentionally, others incidentally. We chat to some of the chief rabble-rousers.

WORDS ROISIN AGNEW PHOTOGRAPHS TRISTAN HUTCHINSON

T

he Irish architect and designer Eileen Gray famously said that “to create one must first question everything”. To her this meant abandoning an old order to reconfigure the physical world around her in a way that was entirely modern, an ode to the future. It was an inherently optimistic endeavour as well as a political one. For a new generation of Irish artists the need to question in order to create has become particularly prescient albeit perhaps more metaphysical.

Events in public and political life over the past months have caused the country to go through a species of national soul-searching.

The ripple effects of #MeToo on our shores, a hard-fought abortion referendum and an economic recovery at risk of leaving the weakest behind, has led to a moment of intense political engagement in Ireland. Fittingly, emerging and well-established Irish artists and influencers have increasingly begun to use their platforms in order to spread and discuss ideas via the communicability that art affords them hoping ultimately to institute change.

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THE ADVOCATE

SINÉAD BURKE Sinéad Burke tells an attentiongrabbing story about not being able to use public bathrooms without a stranger standing guard. “Providing a personal story gets rid of apathy, it gives people something to relate to and hopefully it can even tilt their world view.” Burke has carved a name for herself as an ambassador for diversity, particularly in fashion, speaking at events such as Davos, TED Talks and also Business of Fashion, who put her on the front cover of their May magazine. She attended the White House’s “Design for All” event in 2016 and more recently mingled with Oprah Winfrey and the Kardashians. To her, clothes are about human dignity, something that “everyone interacts with tangibly, they literally touch our skin”, but that continue to flounder in terms of catering to diversity, with “the same role models that lead to few people feeling represented within the system”. She has advocated for better fashion as well as interior design and public infrastructure that considers “access to a fair and equal existence”. Her concern is that no decision-making goes ahead without those who are most affected being part of the conversation – “the phrase ‘nothing about us, without us’ acts as my constant mantra”. Overall she is extremely optimistic, saying she’s excited to see what happens “when the industry starts reflecting the genuine diversity of those who wear clothes.”

PEOPLE | IRISH ACTIVISTS

THE SATIRIST

BLINDBOY BOATCLUB

Revered for his ability to boil down complex ideas into accessible and razor-sharp observational humour, The Rubberbandits’ Blindboy has of late been deepening his engagement with pretty much every subject going via his charttopping podcast. “The creative control that I have is what makes it so enjoyable for me. It’s an experimental space and I haven’t a clue what direction it will take some weeks,” he says. Since a viral TV appearance last year where he riffed on the theme of “my generation”, he has become something of a spokesperson for the self-same and in April this year he released his debut book, The Gospel According to Blindboy in 15 Short Stories.

No matter what subject he tackles, be it suicide or an otter named Yurty Ahern, comedy and lightness of touch go hand in hand. “Humour can subvert the tension of these conversations by communicating ideas in a different form,” he says. “Humour and creativity are essential tools for any discussion around society or politics.” A particular area he’s eloquent on is young men and mental health, where he draws from his own experience. “I come from a culture where, as a lad, speaking about or exploring my emotions is essentially taboo and considered not masculine,” he says. On the current crisis in masculinity he’s characteristically self-aware. “I was raised as a man to channel my insecurities through misogyny, control and entitlement over women. I’m working hard on challenging this in my own attitudes.”

Expect similar musings and more in the live Blindboy Podcast stage show at the Cork Midsummer Festival on June 21.

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PEOPLE | IRISH ACTIVISTS

THE THEATRE MOGUL

SELINA CARTMELL Taking over the theatrical monolith that is Dublin’s Gate Theatre was always going to be a daunting task, but the sexual harassment allegations levelled at its previous artistic director thrust Selina Cartmell’s appointment into unusually sharp focus. Cartmell had been working for almost 20 years as a freelance theatre director. Her appointment as the first female artistic director of the Gate is seen as heralding a new era in Irish theatre, influenced in part by the widely popular Waking the Feminists movement that saw female theatre practitioners campaign for greater visibility. Cartmell acknowledges that the pressure is on her to deliver. “I believe in equality and key to my vision is ensuring that our organisation is respectful of equality in all forms including gender, race, ability, class and sexuality,” she says. Her debut programme is themed around “The Outsider”. “It felt urgent, relevant and alive for audiences today,” Cartmell says. “So many of us who make theatre feel like outsiders.” The Gate’s chief challenge now is how to preserve its loyal audience while drawing in a new, younger crowd. “Theatre is always a risk,” Cartmell says, “but if we tell the right stories, provoke as well as entertain, then I believe we can appeal to both the loyal Gate audiences and the new theatre explorer.” June will see Roddy Doyle’s cult classic The Snapper make its stage debut – and later in the year, the radical casting of Ruth Negga as Hamlet and the return of the fourth-wall-busting The Great Gatsby.

THE ACTORVIST

JOHN CONNORS In February, a YouTube video showing the actor John Connors accepting his Best Actor award for his role in Cardboard Gangsters at the Irish Film and Television Awards went viral. In a fiery speech, Connors criticised the discrimination experienced by the Irish Traveller community, highlighting his own problems in breaking into the acting world. “Basically a spotlight was put on me and I just continued being myself,” he jokes. Creative and political awakening coincided for Connors, who considers himself an “actorvist”, as the rapper Lethal Dialect describes him. “Acting brought me into roles that made me more politically aware. I stepped into a new stratosphere.” His outspokenness began while he was working on popular RTÉ drama Love/Hate because journalists would ask him “about being a Traveller, bare-knuckle fighting, and [I] would answer honestly and suddenly it would be in the news”. After becoming the first Traveller to win an IFTA, Connors feels he has a mandate to continue to use his platform “to be vocal and to be honest ...

I have to keep smashing down doors”. He gets contacted by younger members of the Traveller community saying he’s made them aspire to enter the industry. “That makes me think this is important, this is bigger than me. If other Travellers think they can make it, then that will be my greatest achievement.”

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THE PODCASTER

SOPHIE WHITE Journalist and mother Sophie White gained public attention with the publication of her unusual cookbook where recipes were mixed with candid writing about a bad drug experience that eventually led to her being put on antipsychotics. “What I came back with was basically ‘Would you like a side of deep-fried Mars bars with your psychiatric meds?’”

It’s unsurprising then that she would team up with pal Jen O’Dwyer to turn her mix of pithy humour and brutal honesty to the hallowed ground of parenting with their podcast, Mother of Pod (she also co-hosts the brilliant The Spill alongside fellow myth-buster

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Rhona McAuliffe). “What I try to do with everything is normalise the things we think are mad or weird or bad,” she says. White turned to podcasting to create a shame-free zone to discuss parenting.

“I try to write and talk about making mistakes and feeling like I was losing my mind or feeling suicidal, as much as I write about losing it with my kids.”

She takes issue with representations of parenting in popular culture, saying that it has “managed to rebrand the whole experience as some kind of fantasy of exquisite bonding” when, in fact, “it’s lonely”. Her activism, she feels, is accidental. “Once you’ve crouched naked on a bed in a room full of strangers screaming ‘my vagina is burning down’, a bit of public speaking just doesn’t phase you anymore.”

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PEOPLE | IRISH ACTIVISTS

THE WORDSMITH

LOUISE O’NEILL

A household name by now, Louise O’Neill came to prominence with the publication of her award-winng Asking for It, her acclaimed young adult novel that told the fictional story of a rape in an Irish town. It became part of a consciousness-raising moment in Ireland around issues of consent and rape culture, catapulting O’Neill to the centre of the debate – and is being adapted for the stage at Dublin’s Abbey Theatre in November. “I think people were ready to confront certain truths around sexual violence in Ireland and my book came at just the right time,” she says. “Art can provide a more comfortable way of having what are often difficult conversations.”

The sense of societal dysfunction informs a lot of O’Neill’s work and she doesn’t see how it couldn’t. “It would have been impossible for me to be given a platform such as I have been afforded and to stay silent on subjects that I believe to be important”, such as the “double standard that exists when it comes to male and female sexuality that pervades our culture on a global level”. Her newest book is The Surface Breaks, a feminist retelling of The Little Mermaid. “There were so many interesting parallels with today’s society,” O’Neill says. “Here is a young woman who gives up her voice and mutilates her body in order to attract a young man in the hopes that he will fall in love with her.”

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FINE IRISH CUISINE AT ASHFORD CASTLE The award-winning George V Dining Room is named after the then Prince of Wales, later George V, who stayed at Ashford in 1906 when the castle was in the ownership of the Guinness family.

Under the direction of Executive Chef Philippe Farineau, Ashford Castle is renowned for delicious dining, inspired by fresh ingredients from the West of Ireland and from the Ashford Estate itself. From fine dining in the George V, fresh and local cuisine at Cullen’s at the Cottage, to atmospheric dining in the Dungeon Restaurant and Wine Cellars - there is more to explore on the Ashford Estate this summer.

Voted Best of the Best in the World – Virtuoso

ashfordcastle.com

DESTINATION | KENMARE

Picture

PERFECT

Kenmare in Co Kerry has a great reputation for its restaurants but no dish can surpass the pure beauty of its natural surroundings that are at once timeless and ancient.

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS MARK DUGGAN

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“C

an you hear that?”

“Hear what?” “Exactly.”

Being entirely enveloped by a natural soundscape of rushing water, songbirds and an exhaling breeze is a rare gift. Dublin ain’t Tokyo but still it hums with traffic, sirens, tooting trams, clattering trains and natives illuminated by a constellation of street lamps and eternally-lit office blocks and shop fronts. Even the coastline has a muffled white noise of industry, from parping boats to overhead planes and distant roads.

It’s hard to find a spot devoid of manmade noise and light pollution in the developed world, but here in Kerry I find it, unequivocally. And it feels amazing.

We’re nearly halfway through our guided hike on the Iveragh peninsula and engulfed in a palimpsest of glacial undulations, ancient oaks, crumbling walls, Famine-era potato plots,

abandoned cottages, frolicking deer and hulking knuckles of red sandstone (so-called but actually grey), that, without an experienced guide, I would never notice. “Every one metre of bog represents 300-400 years of time,” says our oracle John Moriarty – also the bar manager at Park Hotel Kenmare (see “Sleep” on page 68), where he has worked for 35 years – pointing at a mantle of peat with his hiking stick.

He also refers us to the frizz and crust of different lichen growing on trees – Mother Nature’s barometer of clean air – and a gall wasp pod. This city slicker has a lot to learn.

Ireland’s natural riches are worldrenowned and you don’t have to travel too far from the bright lights to find swathes of green, stout-black lakes, yellow gorse and dramatic coastline.

Parts of the Iveragh peninsula, though, feel like worlds and lifetimes away, the topography untouched by modern life.

It’s the largest of Kerry’s Atlantic

Previous pages, the waterfall at Kenmare’s Gleninchaquin Park is Tolkien-dreamy. Clockwise from above, Sheen Falls’ Brendan Grant is not only the hotel’s head gardener and hiking guide but also an avid angler; did someone say mint sauce? and a crab and radish showstopper at Park Hotel Kenmare.

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DESTINATION | KENMARE

peninsulas and includes the magnificent Killarney Lakes and the Macgillycuddy Reeks mountain range, which boasts two of Ireland’s highest summits, Carrauntoohil at 1,038 metres and Caher at 1,001. The Kerry Way, in its entirety, is 230 kilometres, but we’re hiking a 12-kilometre section with John, who guides hotel guests every Saturday, weather permitting.

We scale ochre valleys and steppingstone rivers, and pass only four other hikers during our two-and-a-half-hour walk, the gurgle of fresh running water a constant.

It’s not for the faint-hearted – or rather, the weak-ankled or puff-breathed (me) – but once you reach the highest part of the climb at Windy Gap, some 385 metres above sea level, the views are spectacular. It’s only when we make our way back to Kenmare town that we’re reminded of “civilisation”: sites of the old fever hospital and workhouse.

Another life-affirming, cobwebsblowing hike is in Gleninchaquin Park (gleninchaquinpark.com), 12 kilometres southwest of Kenmare on the northwest side of the Beara peninsula. It’s a 600-hectare park owned by multiple generations of the Corkery family and it couldn’t be any more picture perfect than if Paul Henry painted it. In fact, the short drive to basecamp will almost certainly provide a quintessential John Hinde moment: sheep crossing the 64 |

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road. This sets the scene for my two-hour hike, where we are outnumbered by sheep and lambs; we don’t pass even one walker.

My guide this time is Brendan Grant, the head gardener of 13 years at Sheen Falls hotel (see “Sleep”, page 68), a self-taught botanist, musician and thespian (“nothing ever happens in Kenmare so you have to make things happen”). A fountain of local knowledge and intrepid tales – he recently spent six weeks travelling around India on a digital detox – he is great company as we ascend the mighty 140-metre-high waterfall, passing the ominously dark-watered but trout-rich Cummeenadillure Lough and marvel at stoneflies, another environmental indicator that the lakes are pollution-free.

The walk from beginning to end is only around four kilometres but the terrain is at times unwieldy and mostly uphill. It’s undeniably well worth the effort but my legs are palpably relieved when I later saddle up for an hour’s horse ride from Sheen Falls’ stables. Owner and horsewoman Joyce Gerretsen Canavan and I clip-clop along the roads due to an unprecedentedly wet winter and spring, the fields perpetually boggy (muddy ground means muddy horses). But our leisurely pace, interrupted by only a few passing cars, is a simple pleasure.

And from four legs to sea legs ... No trip to southwest Ireland is complete

Clockwise from far left, the ubiquitous Kerry sheep crosses road; behold the Garnish Island Gin; a long view of the Kerry Way, forefronted by a tree a-fuzz with lichen; cuteness ahoy – Kenmare Bookshop; the glorious Technicolor of beef tartare with cured egg at Mulcahy’s and its affable manager Neil Hynes.

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DESTINATION | KENMARE

without a trip to Garnish Island, on Bantry Bay in Co Cork.

It’s around a half-hour drive from Kenmare and involves a glorious short ferry crossing from Glengarriff (see “Smart Tips”, page 68), passing blubbery, bemused seals languishing on rock formations. Our skipper also points out a huge nest atop a tree – home to a pair of white-tailed eagles thanks to a reintroduction programme in 2011. The large raptors, once native to Ireland, became extinct until recent breeding efforts: 2016 marked the first successful fledgling in 125 years.

If the Iveragh and Beara peninsulas are about untamed nature, Garnish Island is an exercise in Edwardian restraint. The island was a rocky outcrop when the British businessman and MP Annan Bryce purchased it from the War Office in 1910 but became an enchanting 15-hectare paradise thanks to the vision of his formidable wife Violet (a cousin of Countess Markievicz and Eva Gore-Booth) and the skills of the English landscape architect Harold Peto and gardener Murdo Mackenzie.

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artefacts and curios from their international grand tours – many of which are displayed in the fascinating Bryce House – they also collected exotic plants that continue to flourish in the warmth of the Gulf Stream. Italianate, Japanese, Robinsonian and walled gardens, a Martello tower, Grecian temple, casita and a “jungle” all conspire to a magical effect: one expects to turn a corner and see a fairy, nymph or Tuatha dé Danann.

In the 1920s, George Bernard Shaw regularly frequented Garnish Island while writing his play Saint Joan, which was likely inspired by the Bryce’s daughter Marjory, who led a procession on horseback dressed as Joan of Arc at the Women’s Coronation Procession in London in 1911, leading 40,000 women from almost 30 suffrage organisations. As the legend goes, Violet bid George farewell at the slipway, saying “Goodbye Shaw. I hope we meet in Heaven”. He looked at her and quipped: “Madam, are we not here already?” The same could be said of this beatific southwestern region as a whole.

Clockwise from top, Kenmare Bay as seen from Reenagross Park; dapper John Moriarty is best known as Park Hotel Kenmare’s bar manager but he also leads fascinating guided hikes; a first class fishy feast at No 35.

CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND ENTERPRISE FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA MacAREE.

EAT PORCINE Kenmare is spoiled for choice with good restaurants. One such palate-pleaser is No 35, whose pig farm – pedigree, rare breed, free range and just two kilometres away – provides many an ingredient for its dishes. It’s not all about pork, either, with guaranteed-Irish beef, roasted duck and Glenbeigh mussels in Stonewell cider also on the menu. I went rogue and had the wild mushroom tart … superb.

(35 Main St, Kenmare, 064 664 1559; no35kenmare.com) WHOLESOME Another locals’ favourite is Packie’s, which has been sating appetites for the last 13 years under the tutelage of chef Martin Hallissey, who works with as many local and organic suppliers as possible. His seasonal menu game is strong, with Kerry lamb a springtime favourite and, in winter, Kenmare scallops and Irish stew. (35 Henry St, Kenmare, 064 664 1508; packiesrestaurant.ie) ON TREND Recommended to me thrice before setting out on to Main Street, Mulcahy’s is the closest

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Kenmare has to a hipster joint, with its exposed lightbulbs and gin selection. The rest of the decor is modern-classic, while its dishes combine global influences – sushi, Iberian tapas – with native produce.

Chef Mulcahy knows his onions and more, making plates suitably Instaworthy. (Main St, Kenmare, 064 664 2383; mulcahyskenmare.ie)

SLEEP SIZEABLE The Sheen Falls Lodge estate has a large footprint but deceptively offers only 66 well-turned out guestrooms and suites. This means generous-sized accommodation and furniture to match: the Oscar Suite’s bed is big enough for three (not that we tried, honest), while there’s ample space for strolls, tennis, horse riding and navel-gazing across Kenmare Bay or the Sheen waterfall of its namesake.

Food is excellent at both bar and fine-dining restaurant, where ingredients are farm, and river, fresh: salmon is caught on the estate and home-smoked, while organic vegetables come from up-theroad suppliers. Rooms from €255.

(Gortnadullagh, Kenmare, 064 664 1600; sheenfallslodge.ie)

ESTEEMED National treasures Francis and John Brennan continue to maintain exceptional service at Park Hotel Kenmare, which is why so many locals hang out here for weekend lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. Well-trained staff, expert in the increasingly rare art of banter, deliver five-star service in a handsome, pristine, historic property filled with antiques. In the fine-dining lounge, book a window seat for views of the bay and linger over noteworthy dishes, such as a piquant potted crab starter followed by a perfectly rendered steak and jumbo chips. Rooms from €145. (Shelbourne Street, Kenmare, 064 664 1200; parkkenmare.com) CAMPING Once upon a time, camping meant families chatting together (arguing?) in confined spaces. Beara Camping, though, has Wi-Fi, which changes the dynamic somewhat. It does have two “Outdoor Lounges” – convivial barbecue huts at which to meet fellow outdoor types around a roaring fire and grill. There are also kitchenette-equipped cabins and four mobile homes. Open April to October. Tent and camper-van

units from €16 per night, caravans from €17.50. (Coornagillagh, Tuosist, Killarney, 064 668 4287; bearacamping.com)

SMART TIPS On the Ring of Kerry, Ladies View – so-called because it’s where Queen Victoria’s minions reached their summit – is also the location of Altitude Café, an excellently priced rooftop pit-stop. ladiesview.com Blue Pool Ferries to Garnish Island run from March to October and leave Glengarriff every 30 minutes.

The booking office is adjacent to Quills Woollen Market. Be aware that the ferry ride costs €12 for adults, €6 for children, and that admission to the island costs an extra €5. Entry to the Bryce House costs a further €5 and includes a guided tour. bluepoolferry.com Tip for gluttons: gorge on Lorge, between Kenmare and Glengarriff – a chocolatiers, where you can even learn how to make truffles, bonbons and bars. This greedy-guts writer particularly loved the almond marzipan, praline rocher and chilli square. lorge.ie

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DESTINATION | PHILADELPHIA

PHILADELPHIA, here I come ...

The City of Brotherly Love exudes a low-key and understated charm that is hard to resist.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS

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DESTINATION | PHILADELPHIA

H

eading into last year’s Super Bowl the Philadelphia Eagles were classed by many as “underdogs of the playoffs”. For Philadelphians this wasn’t exactly new territory.

Alongside more glamorous nearby metropolises, “scrappy little guy” was often how the city was perceived. But things change and that the Eagles went on to win the Super Bowl says a lot about the City of Brotherly Love today – they’ve been underdogs, sure, but contemporary Philadelphia is currently very much on the up, and not just on the football field.

Tourism figures are rising steadily, the economy is flush and employment rates have seldom

seemed rosier. There’s even a new direct Aer Lingus flight from Dublin – high praise, indeed! – so it’s not surprising to find there’s a palpable sense of optimism in the air, but it’s a very Philadelphian kind of optimism.

The little city that could has never been a blowhard. Instead, it exists as a welcome, low-key alternative to some of its more blustering East Coast neighbours.

Founded by William Penn in 1682, the city has served as the nation’s capital, George Washington’s home, the setting for the signing of the Declaration of Independence, and is where the US Constitution was debated and written (inside its Independence Hall). It is also still the permanent residence of perhaps the most iconic symbol of American independence, the Liberty Bell.

A smart way to get to grips with all that history is via a walking tour of the Old City (also known as “America’s most historic square mile”) with one of Philly Tour Hub’s (phillytourhub. com) genius guides. Discover the truth behind the Betsy Ross House (did the supposed seamstress of the first American flag really live there?), wander down the charming Elfreth’s Alley, and perhaps, like this newbie, become enthused about American history like you never have before. Further illuminate your US historical blindspots then – in a fun and energising way – with a visit to the comprehensive Museum of the American Revolution (amrevmuseum. org) whose distinguished collection includes the mythical George Washington’s marquee tent among other fascinating artefacts.

Previous pages, spectacular views from One Liberty Observation Deck, left, and right, Rebecca Solomon, brand representative at tasting room and home bar supply, Art in the Age. Clockwise from above, remembering Philadelphia’s famous fictional son, Rocky Balboa; other sons of Philadelphia, immortalised in mural; a veggie version of South Philly Barbacoa/El Compadre’s world-famous tacos.

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DESTINATION | PHILADELPHIA

Having filled your heritage boots, switch to the strictly visual with a marvel at the enchanting Philadelphia Magic Gardens (phillymagicgardens.org). Created by local artist Isaiah Zagar, the leftfield masterpiece of mosaic spans half a city block and comprises folk art statues, found objects, bicycle wheels, colourful glass bottles, handmade tiles and thousands of glittering mirrors. The site is also enveloped in visual anecdotes and personal narratives that refer to Zagar’s life, family and community, as well as references from the wider world.

Higher-browed culture vultures will find plenty to pick at too. A must for brushstroke admirers is a visit to the unique Barnes Foundation (barnesfoundation. org), set up by another of the city’s artistic outliers, Albert Barnes, who “taught people to look at works of art primarily in terms of their visual relationships”. It’s a rare trove of some great works by some of the greatest painters of the 19th and 20th centuries and contains a neckcraning selection of Monets, Van Goghs, Renoirs, Modiglianis, and so (richly) on, as well as a vast array 74 |

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of sculpture and ironwork by some of the great maestros of those arts too.

The Philadelphia Museum of Art (philamuseum.org) – atop the famous “Rocky steps” at the end of the walkable, or joggable, Benjamin Franklin Parkway – bills itself as “the cultural heart of the city”. It’s hard to argue otherwise; the vast Greek Revival building houses temporary exhibitions, permanent galleries and an ongoing expansion project that will open up the museum even further in the years to come. The scope of the collection is huge so assign at least a few hours to take it all in – it rewards taking one’s time. Those short on time, however, should take in the bijou but bountiful Rodin Museum (rodinmuseum.org), where a worthy selection from the sculptor’s body of work is displayed in an airy pavilion nearby.

There are vertical hectares of street art to absorb too in the form of murals (often imbued with astute social commentary). They are impressive and ubiquitous (there are almost 4,000) but it’s recommended to take a guided tour if you really want to get a handle on the art,

Opposite page, clockwise from far left, Old Fashioneds are in fashion at Art in the Age; masterpiece theatre at the Barnes Foundation; a spire to inspire, viewed from the equally stimulating Loews hotel. Above from left, strolling in the sunshine, downtown; cherry blossom and Greek Revival at the Philadelphia Museum of Art; magnificent murals at every turn. Below, a snapshot of the singularly engrossing Philadelphia Magic Gardens.

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DESTINATION | PHILADELPHIA

*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

as well as to hear the (often moving) stories behind the works. The Mural Arts Walking Tour (muralarts.org) is a good place to arrange an educational excursion with a local expert.

Rise above the streets by sticking your head in the clouds at One Liberty Observation Deck (phillyfromthetop. com), where a 360-degree view of the city at 270 metres above street level is there for the taking. Stunning noon, day and night, the panorama here reveals a lot more about the city than you might discover at ground level; around sunset is a particularly striking time to take in the vistas.

Naturally, no visit to Philly is complete without sampling its bestknown mouthful: the Philly cheesesteak.

It’s well worth enduring sometimes lengthy queues for the ones at Campo’s Deli (camposdeli.com), open since 1947, but it’s not just the city’s cheesesteaks that blow other sandwiches out of the water. The Reading Terminal Market (readingterminalmarket.org) is home to, among many other impressive food experiences, Tommy DiNic’s (tommydinics.com), creator of, according to the Travel Channel, North America’s Greatest Sandwich – this writer found no evidence to dispute that claim. The sub in question comprises hand-carved roast pork that’s made via a secret, three-day process, melting and sharp provolone cheese, steaming broccoli rabe, hot and sweet peppers, and a generous ladle of pork stock, all served up in a crusty-fresh baguette roll – it’s a memorable experience that comes highly recommended, just like a visit to the top dog city it calls home.

Fly return to PHILADELPHIA for 40,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PHILADELPHIA daily.

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Clockwise from top, patriotic portals on Elfreth’s Alley; flowery murals downtown; Philadelphia’s laid-back charm can be hard to resist.

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DESTINATION | PHILADELPHIA

PHILADELPHIA ESSENTIALS STAY MODERNIST Inhabiting the country’s first skyscraper designed in the Bauhaus-rooted International Style – the instantly-recognisable Loews incorporates Modernist lines, a primary colour scheme and bespoke flourishes. Also home to massively comfortable beds, airy rooms and cracking food and drinks options. Rooms from approx $239.

(1200 Market Street, +1 215 627 1200; loewshotels.com) LOCAL Living like a local is the new way to travel and a stay at Lokal Hotel in the Old City neighbourhood is one of the best ways to do that. Choose a fully functioning apartment fitted out with all the techie mod cons you could hope for, from sound bars to iPad controls. Decor is bang up to date too but don’t forget to make full use of the vintage drinks trolley … *hic*. One-bedroom apartments from $258. (139 North 3rd Street, +1 267 702 4345; staylokal.com)

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VIEW ORDER With another stellar food and beverage offering, The Logan Philadelphia, Curio Collection by Hilton is a super hub for staying in as much as getting out and about. Huge beds ensure sound sleeps, while the sophisticated rooftop bar – Assembly – with its lush views, provides plenty of space for after-dark grooving and shaking.

Cool art collection too. Rooms from $286. (One Logan Square, +1 215 963 1500; curiocollection.com)

EAT PAN-ASIAN Sampan is cool, dark, and full of flavour. In the heart of lively Midtown, the open-kitchen hotspot exemplifies much of what makes this neighbourhood a popular choice for a fun night out.

While the cocktails are distinctive and refined, the crowd is warm and welcoming, even on a Sunday night, when the place hummed to a vibey crowd, table-hopping and mingling.

(124 South 13th Street, +1 215 732 3501; sampanphilly.com)

LIVELY The epitome of buzzy, Mission Taqueria is a natty spot for social drinks and satisfying eats.

Spikily flavourful Mexican standards reign, but make it a mission to acquaint your taste buds with their ceviches too. Drinks are also infused with a south of the border flavour … try the Green Juice margarita (this writer loved the deliciously smoky, mezcal version), delicious but, a heads up, it’s also strong stuff.

(1516 Sansom Street, +1 215 383 1200; missiontaqueria.com)

AUTHENTIC Featured on Netflix’s Ugly Delicious as one of the United States’ stand-out Mexican food experiences, South Philly Barbacoa/El Compadre is worth making the transatlantic pilgrimage.

Run by a likeable husband-and-wife team, this place is as honest and authentic a restaurant as you’ll find. The traditional slow-cooked, barbacoa-style lamb tacos are simply exceptional. Busy, daily, from 7am. (1149 South 9th Street, +1 215 694 3797; southphillybarbacoa.com)

FRENCH If you aren’t exactly gagging for Gallic grub, the menu at French spot Parc is varied enough that you should certainly find something to pique your appetite.

Their excellent seafood, for instance, is definitely worth trying, with plenty of shellfish to tempt – the king crab legs were knock-out fresh and delicious, as was the cockle-warming moules et frites and impressively-curated wine list.

(227 South 18th Street, +1 215 545 2262; parc-restaurant.com)

DRINK Art in the Age is a home bar supply and tasting room where ogling and sipping the finest spirits known to humanity (possibly) is the order of the day. Sidle up to the bar where experts create perfect cocktails and whiskies while gently educating a curious clientele. After supping, shop in the store for beautifully branded spirits and home bar accessories. (16 North 3rd Street, +1 215 922 2600; artintheage.com)

LUNCH & DINNER

ROOFTOP TERRACE DINING WITH RIVER VIEWS Breakfast * Lunch * Dinner

“For eating and drinking in Dublin, make sure to check out The Winding Stair, a longtime favorite of Dubliners and travelers. Its cozy dining room is, fittingly, up a winding staircase, and the windows overlook the River Liffey, my favorite among the restaurants I visited.”

Frugal Traveler - The New York Times

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40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 +353 1 872 7320 * winding-stair.com

breakfast * lunch * dinner “The Legal Eagle is quirky and generous, a gastropub that takes the blandness out of the concept of great food in great pubs and refits it for a jaded world.’’

Catherine Cleary - The Irish Times

***** “There is something joyous about the food in The Legal Eagle and I defy anybody not to love its quirky mix of the traditional and the modern from panko crumbed salsify to lunchtime roast in a roll.’’

Leslie Williams - Irish Examiner

WINNER of the Best Gastro Pub in Dublin 2018 Irish Restaurant Awards

“A vast eating house spread over a former knitting emporium where James Joyce once worked (who knew?)

Surrounded by thick-crusted loaves of bread and pillowy-looking cinnamon-apple buns, I ate a messily delicious braised pork shoulder sandwich laced with red cabbage and beetroot slaw, along with a generously portioned butterbean and pumpkin salad.”

WINNER of the Best Gastro Pub in Ireland 2018 Irish Restaurant Awards

1/2 Chancery Place, Dublin 7 * T: +353 1 555 2971 * thelegaleagle.ie

42 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 (Northside of the Ha'penny bridge) +353 1 828 0835 * thewoollenmills.com

NATURAL BEAUTY

Eco-tourism in Lanzarote shows a very different side to the island. Come for the sun and stay for the volcano hikes, vineyards and desert islands.

WORDS MARCUS BRADSHAW PHOTOGRAPHS KYLE TUNNEY

DESTINATION | LANZAROTE

A

Opening pages, a view from near Haría looking over the south of Lanzarote.

Clockwise from top, dramatic and ancient bridges carved by the ocean at Los Arcos; intrepid guide, Martina, from Eco Insider; driving 4x4 across La Graciosa.

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white Land Rover Defender pulls up and a woman gets out. “Welcome to Lanzarote”, she says, with a firm handshake and a broad smile. She opens the back door and there’s a flurry of movement as the passengers inside shift about to make space.

“Hop in,” she says and I scramble aboard. Greetings are exchanged and before I know it, we’re moving.

Less than a minute has passed and it’s already clear that this is not your average hotel transfer.

Lanzarote is well known for its sun and sand package holidays but I have come here to learn more about another aspect of island life – its unique environment and emergent eco-tourism industry. I have two adventurous days lined up, each designed to show a different side of the island. My itineraries have been planned by Eco Insider (eco-insider.com), a small tour company that specialises in volcano hikes, bird-watching expeditions, wine tours and desert island trips.

It’s clear that the natural world is the driving passion of our guide, Carmen Portella Ernest. Her interest in ecological tourism developed ten years ago, when she began organising walks for friends through Lanzarote’s untempered wilderness. As she spent more and more time outdoors, she began to study the island’s unique ecosystem and started to notice the negative impact that human activity

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DESTINATION | LANZAROTE

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was having on the landscape. This led her to consider how best to explore and enjoy the inspiring landscape, without damaging it.

The entire island is volcanic and although the volcanoes are now extinct, their distinctive cones punctuate the skyline. As Carmen drives us westwards towards La Geria wine region, she explains how a major eruption dramatically altered island life. It started in 1730 and lasted six years, during which several villages and most of the island’s productive fertile land was covered with pyroclastic ash. Famine and hardship followed, but eventually the local farmers realised that good fertile ground was buried underneath the ash – if only they could get at it. They dug deep, bowlshaped pits until they reached the fertile soil and they discovered that plants, especially vines, flourished in them. The resulting vineyard is extraordinary – bright green vines thriving in pockmarked fields of black ash.

Grape harvesting from these pits is difficult, backbreaking work. The harvesters must climb into each pit, pick the crop and pass it across the other pits – sometimes over many hundreds of metres – to the nearest road access. The grapes have to be picked quickly, so entire communities come together to systematically strip a field. Once the harvest is in, the community celebrates with a feast. It’s possible to volunteer to help

bring in the harvest but I take a second look at the pits and decide against offering.

Having seen the raw material, I’m eager to sample the finished product, and the tasting element of the tour doesn’t disappoint. We call to three bodegas – La Geria (lageria.com) in Yaiza and in Las Palmas: El Grifo (elgrifo.com) and Vulcano (bodegavulcano.es) – over the course of the morning, meeting local producers, sampling wine and working up an appetite. A real treat awaits us at lunchtime, when we sit down to eat at large trestle tables set up in a parking garage at Casa Juan Ramón. This, we are assured, is the typical Lanzarote way of entertaining: allowing for friends, family and neighbours to sit together at one large table in the shade.

A parade of plates is brought to the table: octopus salad, Canarian potatoes, stews and side dishes – as well as goat meat (the local delicacy). Wine flows in abundance, adding to the good cheer of the group. We eat and drink our fill, then all too soon, it’s time to get back in the jeep.

Opposite, clockwise from top left, Hotel La Isla y el Mar; Lanzarote from La Graciosa; tantalising glimpses; long-closed doors in La Graciosa; Adonai Rodríguez Cabrera, manager at La Cantina; nature always finds its way in La Graciosa; a vibrant spread at La Cantina. This page, clockwise from top left, wine time at Bodegas el Grifo; Raquel Hidalgo of Casa el Morro; cyclists zip through Las Palmas.

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The next day’s trip to the desert island of La Graciosa turns out to be equally fascinating, and includes a ferry ride, a hike along the coast and a sumptuous lunch on the island. “This was the last of the Canary Islands to be inhabited,” our guide explains as we pick our way along its rocky coastline. The island is completely arid but people were drawn here in the late 1800s by the promise of the construction of a large fish factory. The factory was never built but the islanders who had relocated were determined to stay. Life was incredibly tough but they managed to sustain themselves by trading their catch with Lanzarote – bringing all their supplies (including fresh water) on to the island by boat.

Our hike brings us to the tiny abandoned village of Pedro Barba – one of the few traces of the hand of man in this place. We stop for a swim and an organic snack, until a rising dust cloud heralds the arrival of a jeep. We pile in and cross the desert to the island’s exposed ocean coast, where huge turquoise waves crash onto the beach. A tattered red flag flies in warning: these waters are beautiful but dangerous. We pull ourselves away from the mesmerising effect of the ocean and board the jeep again, which brings us back to the pier and a slap-up lunch of fresh fish.

I’m reluctant to climb out of the 4x4 that evening, but I do. It rolls away, towards its next adventure. The jeep beeps, I throw a wave and smile, knowing that inside they are waving back.

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Clockwise from top left, Ger and Diana on a yoga retreat at Casa el Morro; Playa de Las Conchas, La Graciosa; guests are invited to write upon the walls at Casa Juan Ramón.

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LANZAROTE ESSENTIALS its green credentials. This certified “Biosphere Smart” boutique hotel is powered by renewable energy, encourages guests to recycle and each suite has its own herb garden. Suites from €207 per night. (Calle Reina Sofia 23, Puerto del Carmen, +34 928 513 725; laislayelmar.com)

EAT

STAY OFF GRID Embrace your wild side and stay in a yurt at Finca de Arrieta, an off-grid eco-retreat on the north of the island. If sleeping under canvas isn’t your thing, they also offer stone cottages and luxury villas, all off-grid and powered by 100 per cent sustainable solar and wind energy. Yurts from €120 per night. (Tabayesco, +34 928 826 720; lanzaroteretreats.com) PAMPER Take your pick of seven self-catering cottages or four traditional farmhouses at Casa el Morro, a yoga centre and spa on the edge of the La Geria wine region, with spectacular views of the volcano natural park. Cottages from €117 per night. (Calle el Morro 146, Yaiza; +34 699 417 871; casaelmorro.com) SUSTAINABLE CHIC La Isla y el Mar may be located in a resort but that doesn’t diminish

FARM TO FORK Cantina Teguise is a familyrun restaurant located in historic Teguise, the oldest town in Lanzarote. Here the focus is on quality local dishes, made with ingredients sourced directly from an organic farm; good vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options.

(Calle León y Castillo 5, Teguise, +34 928 845 536; cantinateguise.com)

DRINK LABYRINTH Hit the bar and explore the spectacular LagOmar complex, an inspirational architectural intervention, sculpted out of an ancient volcanic quarry. The DJ plays late into the evening, so don’t be afraid to lose yourself in its walkways, caves and tunnels. (Calle los Loros 2, Nazaret; +34 672 46 15 55, lag-o-mar.com) ROOFTOP Enjoy the elegant surroundings and sunset views of the rooftop bar at the Arrecife Gran Hotel where bartenders craft expert cocktails. They also offer a wide selection of premium gins – perfect for an evening G&T. (Parque Islas Canarias, Arrecife, +34 928 800 000; aghotelspa.com)

FISH FEAST Mass tourism has overlooked the sleepy fishing village of Playa Quemenda, so the only sound you’ll hear are waves breaking gently at your feet at Salmarina, a beachside restaurant perched right on the edge of the water. Naturally, they specialise in fish and seafood. (Avenida Marítima 13, Playa Quemenda, +34 928 173 562; salmarinarestaurante.com) HIDDEN The adventurous souls who make it to the historic village of Haría will be rewarded by the outstanding informal menu on offer at Puerta Verde. Great food, beautifully presented, with exciting flavour combinations.

It’s well off the beaten path but all the better for it. (Calle Fajardo 24, Haría, +34 928 835 350)

BEACH BAR The whitewashed terrace of the Papagayo – El Chiringuito bar commands an unbeatable view of Papagayo beach. Perhaps the best way to admire this rocky ocean cove is with beer in hand and, in case you get peckish, they serve great food too. (Calle Punta de Papagayo, Yaiza, +34 928 809 964)

SMART TIPS The best way to explore Lanzarote is by car, but the bus service (though infrequent through smaller towns) is good if you’re on a budget.

The Bono Bus card can save users up to ten per cent and there are airport buses to/from Playa Blanca, Arrecife, Puerto del Carmen, Costa Teguise and Órzola. arrecifebus.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LANZAROTE up to 11 times per week. and from Cork four times per week.

CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND GOLDCAR FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

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KING of castles A fairytale grotto, romantic forests, royal palaces – oh, and the sweetest, airiest, most pillowy pastries that ever passed your lips. Just 40 minutes from Lisbon lies the magical town of Sintra ...

PHOTOGRAPHS AND WORDS NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY

DESTINATION | SINTRA

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Previous page, left, the beautiful interior of Sintra’s Tivoli Palácio de Seteais hotel and, right, the dramatic Gothic façade of the Palácio da Regaleira.

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1 Delicious queijada de Sintra pastries, available from the town’s most famous pastry shop, Casa Piriquita.

2 A couple get selfie ready in the underground caves of the Quinta da Regaleira estate.

3 Sunset at Pena Palace.

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4 Pretty tiles on the cobbled

streets of Sintra.

5 The luxurious and tranquil pool

at the Tivoli Palรกcio de Seteais.

6 Street performer Meg Mary

strumming away in an Old Town square.

7 A statue in the lush gardens of

Quinta de Regaleira.

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The Castelo dos Mouros (Moorish Castle), a Medieval hilltop castle which offers panoramic views over Sintra (if your calves can take its many steps).

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9 11 8 Looking out at the Quinta de Regaleira gardens.

*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

9 Spicy chorizo on a stick, one of the many tasty petiscos (Portugese tapas) on offer at Tascantiga.

10 Traditional painted ceramic wares on display in Old Town.

11 The colourful Pena Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, often dubbed “Disneyland for grown ups” thanks to its bright façade.

Fly return to LISBON for 20,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.

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DESTINATION | SINTRA

SINTRA ESSENTIALS SLEEP

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PRINCELY LUXURY No better place than an elegantly restored former palace to call home while you explore turreted palaces and crumbling castle ruins. The Tivoli Palácio de Seteais boasts exquisite, richly decorated rooms fit for a prince (no wonder Brad Pitt stayed here) and is almost at the door of the must-see Quinta da Regaleira estate. Rooms from €424.

(Rua Barbosa du Bocage 8, +351 219 233 200; tivolihotels.com) COOL CONVENIENCE The name may be a little on the nose, but the Sintra Boutique Hotel features modern rooms, a pretty outdoor terrace and is within walking distance of Old Town and the Sintra National Palace. From €120 per night. (Rua Visconde de Monserrate 40-42, +351 219 244 177; sintraboutiquehotel.com) OLD WORLD CHARM Minutes from the Old Town but with tranquil valley views, Lawrence’s Hotel is the oldest hotel on the Iberian peninsula. It was here Lord Byron began his notes for what would become his epic poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, and one of the most coveted suites is named after him. Rooms from €190. (Rua Consigliéri Pedroso 38-40, +351 219 105 500; lawrenceshotel.com)

13 12 Painted tiles in Sintra’s Old Town.

13 A traditional octopus salad at Tascantiga.

14 Cocktails at Café Paris, a bustling and atmospheric café in the centre of town.

EAT 14

FUN AND FLAVOURFUL Tuck into moreish petiscos (Portuguese tapas) at Tascantiga. Nab an outdoor table and watch the hustle and bustle of Sintra go by while you eat tasty, rich dishes served with imaginative flair. Reasonably priced, especially considering its central location.

(Escadinhas da Fonte da Pipa 2, +351 219 243 242; tascantiga.pt) COSY Atmospheric and friendly, Romaria de Baco feels like a local favourite despite being smack bang in the centre of the tourist action. Expect delicious, traditional Portuguese fare with a strong selection of port, including fun tasting flights. Booking recommended. (Rua Gil Vicente 2, +351 915 448 999; romariadebaco.pt)

SWEET TREATS Founded in 1862, Piriquita is adored by tourists and locals alike, who amiably jostle elbow to elbow while queuing for a sugar hit in the form of a travesseiro, a delightful pillow pastry or a pack of queijadas de Sintra, teeny, fiendishly addictive, mini cheesecakes favoured by King Carlos I. (Rua das Padarias 1, +351 219 230 626; piriquita.pt)

SMART TIPS While Sintra is often touted as the perfect day trip destination from Lisbon, staying at least one night will give you lots of quality roaming time in The Old Town, after the hordes have departed, and will let you hit the most popular destinations first thing, when they are the least hectic.

Hopping on the Linha de Sintra train is the handiest way to make your way out from Lisbon – it costs just €4.40 for a round trip and takes approx 40 minutes from Lisbon’s Rossio station.

If you’re staying in Lisbon and using the Viva Viagem public transport card (which works on buses, Metro and trams), you can also use this to get to Sintra, no need to purchase a separate ticket.

Sintra can get crowded during the summer months. Try to visit mid-week and aim to get there as early in the day as possible to make the most of it.

Recent road changes have pedestrianised much of the Old Town but may make driving or taking taxis tricky. Your best bet is to stick to the dedicated tourist buses (434 and 435) to zip between attractions.

Expect plenty of cobbles, steep hills and uneven ground – comfortable, sensible shoes are a must.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LISBON up to 11 flights per week.

Glovers Alley is led by chef Andy Mc Fadden and his talented team of assistants, sommeliers, wait staff and hosts.

Located in the Fitzwilliam Hotel we serve elegant food with friendly service in a luxurious dining space located off Dublin’s magnificent St Stephen’s Green.

LUNCH

PRE THEATRE

à la carte

Two courses €35 Three courses €45 Thursday - Saturday 12:30 - 2:15pm

Two courses €35 Three courses €45 Tuesday - Thursday 6.00 - 7:00pm

Two courses €65 Three courses €80 Tuesday - Saturday 6.00 - 9:30pm

#GLOVERSALLEY

Do he n y & Nes bi t t 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Private function rooms available

Voted overall

best pub A Dublin Landmark…

in Ireland in the hospitalit y Ireland awards

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.

Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - A must for any trip to Dublin.

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie

A German/Irish school with a European culture and spirit for pupils aged 4-18

St. Kilian’s German School is located on an expansive campus in south Dublin. We welcome children of all nationalities, cultures and religions. Pupils learn German from Kindergarten (Junior Infants) up to Leaving Certificate in a diverse and inclusive environment.

Our approach combines the best of the Irish and German education. Knowledge of German is not a requirement to enrol at St. Kilian’s.

Contact us to arrange a visit.

St. Kilian’s Deutsche Schule Dublin/Eurocampus Roebuck Road, Clonskeagh, Dublin D14 P7F2 T +353 (0)1 288 3323 E admissions@kilians.com www.kilians.com

5 THRILLING

adventures IN IRELAND From gorge climbing to cliff jumping, Yvonne Gordon finds out how to become an adventure addict.

CLIMB A SEA STACK IN DONEGAL

The Slieve Tooey coastline in Co Donegal, running from Ardara right around to Slieve League, has the largest collection of sea stack climbs in a small geographical area on the planet, according to climbing guru Iain Miller. In his expert hands, take on anything from the 31-metre-high Dún

Briste sea stack to the more challenging Cnoc na Mara at 100 metres.

You’ll travel out by dinghy or kayak and the highlight is not the climb and standing on the summit, but the variety of wildlife seen on the way – anything from isolated bird colonies of fulmars, razorbills and gannets to seals and basking sharks. From €50; uniqueascent.ie.

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SMART EDIT | ADVENTURES IN IRELAND

HARNESS WIND AND WAVES ON ACHILL ISLAND

PHOTOGRAPHS, LEFT & MAIN, BY PATRICK MURTAGH PHOTOGRAPHY

CARRIGPHOTOS PHOTOGRAPHY

If you’re going to try to harness the power of both the wind and the waves while learning to kitesurf, there are few more spectacular settings to do so than at the foot of Slievemore and Minaun Mountains on Keel Lake, on Achill Island, off Ireland’s west coast. Kitsesurfers use kites of various sizes to capture the wind, while attached by footstraps to a small board that skims across the waves. It takes a combination of skills (and a basic level of fitness) to get it right but Pure Magic say you should have the hang of it in about four lessons, when you’ll be ready for the open sea. Lessons from €120; puremagic.ie.

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The perfect environment to experience native, simple, Irish produce.

“The food itself, which champions epicurean standards in flavor and presentation, featuring robust ingredients meticulously composed” - New York Times “McGrath has put flashes of brilliance into his new venture.”

- The Irish Times

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com

17 South Great, Georges Street T: 01 707 9596 rusticstone.ie

Experience Dylan McGrath’s latest adventure, hailed by critics and completely unique to Dublin.

Explore an extensive menu of Japanese dishes with a South American influence.

25 HIGH END SAKE & JAPANESE WHISKEY

Taste at Bonsai 17 South Great George’s St, Dublin 2, Ireland Tel: +353 (01) 526 7701 tasteatrustic.com

IMPORTED AND NATIVE TORO TUNA

4 GRADES OF JAPANESE WAGU BEEF

SMART EDIT | ADVENTURES IN IRELAND

LEARN BUSHCRAFT SKILLS IN CO MEATH

PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE LIVIING WILDERNESS

How long would you be able to live in the wilderness? Sign up for a bushcraft course in the Irish woodlands and you will learn everything about fire, water, shelter, food and craft – from how to find the right firewood and start a fire using flint, to finding and purifying water using a filter made from local materials such as grass, moss, sand and charcoal. On a weekend course, you’ll also learn backcountry cooking techniques and how to harvest things such as leaves, berries and roots for cooking. Courses from €195; bushcraft.ie.

SCRAMBLE UP A CANYON IN CONNEMARA

If you love everything to do with rivers and waterfalls and are curious to know what walking in a canyon feels like, then canyoning or gorge walking is for you. In Connemara, way out in Finney, Co Galway in an area called Maamtrasna, surrounded by windswept bogland and sheep-grazed plains, local adventurer Micheál Keane will lead you up the river gorge. Starting from the bottom, you’ll climb up waterfalls, scramble over rocks and boulder up the sides of the canyon, all while working against the flow of the river. You’ll also get to whizz down natural slides or try jumps of up to four or five metres high. €99 including Connemara tour and lunch; epicireland.com.

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DISCOVER THE INTRIGUING TALE OF IRISH WHISKEY

One Destination

A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

Whiskey tasting Guided tours Venue hire Off Iicence & Bar

Save up to 50%

by booking online

www.cliffsofmoher.ie Open 8am – 9pm in May, June, July & August Visit in the mornings or evenings for the best rates and the best experience

United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Co. Clare, Ireland.

E: info@cliffsofmoher.ie

T: +353 65 7086141 www.cliffsofmoher.ie

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

BOOK NOW!

+353 (0) 1 525 0970 WWW.IRISHWHISKEYMUSEUM.IE 119 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2 (OPPOSITE MAIN ENTRANCE OF TRINITY COLLEGE)

SMART EDIT | ADVENTURES IN IRELAND

JUMP OFF A SEA CLIFF IN KERRY

The Ring of Kerry has some of the Wild Atlantic Way’s most spectacular coastal scenery and what better way to truly get to grips with it – and enjoy the ultimate thrill – than to sign up for a coasteering adventure. Setting off along the coast from Coonanna Harbour near Caherciveen, you’ll start with a 1.5-metre-high jump into the harbour, followed by a swim over to a rocky beach and a series of adrenaline-fuelled jumps of between five and nine metres.

Other highlights of the adventure include exploring a sea cave, looking under water to see starfish, sponges and sea urchins and sometimes encountering curious sea lions. €50; moractivetours.com.

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NATUR AL CHAR ACTER. TIMELESS ELEGANCE. The K Club, Ireland’s First AA 5 Red Star Hotel, is a luxury resort nestled in the beautiful county of Kildare, where the river Liffey meanders through the soft green countryside.

With the promise of luxurious accommodation, exquisite dining and wonderful experiences such as kayaking, horse riding, and so much more, we look forward to welcoming you and yours, to help you share a moment in time that you’ll never forget.

BOOK YOUR EXPERIENCE AT THE K CLUB NOW. Contact Reservations at: +353 (0) 1 601 7200 E: sales@kclub.ie

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Web: www.kclub.ie

DESTINATION | VIENNA

48 HOURS IN

VIENNA Geraldine Carton takes a whirl around the city of pomp and palaces.

Don't miss . .

HAUTE CULTURE Vienna has an incredible array of museums and galleries, with none more impressive than The Albertina, which houses more than one million drawings and prints. Here you’ll find one of the largest and most important print rooms in the world, alongside a private collection of modern art that includes names such as Matisse, Monet and Picasso.

(Albertinaplatz 1, +43 1 534 83; albertina.at)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to VIENNA up to nine times per week.

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HIPSTER HAVEN You won’t find a trendier spot than Burggasse 24; a cafécum-bar-cum-vintage clothes shop where the young and beautiful of Viennese society come to sip beers or nibble on pastries. The combination of white-washed walls, plant swings, thrifted furniture and open fireplaces create a relaxed, livingroom vibe. The staff is a tad busy at times but the coffee is top-notch. (Burggasse 24, +43 677 6164 1784; burggasse24.com)

SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL / MICHAEL RZEPA

STACCATO STALLIONS Operating for more than 450 years, The Spanish Riding School gives visitors a glimpse of classical Viennese tradition in action. Daily training sessions take place in a stunning hall with chandeliers hanging overhead, and for €10 you can see the Lipizzaner stallions skip, hop and trot around the opulent setting like it’s the most natural thing in the world. (Michaelerplatz 1, +43 1 533 9031; srs.at)

Drink at . .

Top, pretty in pink, the city radiant at sunset. Above, take in the visual arts at the impressive Albertina. Left, horsing around at the Spanish Riding School.

GO VINTAGE Tucked within this city of pomp and palaces lies an impressive array of vintage shops, full of quirky wonders and statement pieces. Local favourites include Bootik 54 (Neubaugasse 54), Uppers & Downers (Burggasse 46) and Vintage Mode Extraschön (Kaiserstrasse 67). Most of these shops are within a short walking distance of each other, too.

BOOKISH BEER Beers, bookshelves and soft lighting make Pickwick’s the perfect spot to while away an afternoon after a morning of culture-seeking around the city. The crowd here is friendly and laid-back, as is the staff. And if your tummy is grumbling then indulge in one of their signature bagels; you’ll be glad you did.

(Marc-Aurel-Strasse 10-12, +43 1 533 0182; pickwicks.at) LOOS TALK Designed by the famous architect Adolf Loos in 1907, Loos Bar is one tiny Viennese bar (only 27 square metres) that packs a serious historical and architectural punch. You can imagine it has set the scene for some heated political, philosophical and artistic arguments in its time. A perfect fusion of art, architecture and great cocktails. (Kärntner Durchgang 10, +43 1 512 3283; loosbar.at)

Sleep at . .

POSH Looking for something regal? You’ll have trouble finding better than Hotel Imperial.

Inside this building that dates back to 1863, visitors get to enjoy luxury, Old World decor and polite, attentive staff. The quality of the food also deserves a mention, with the Imperial Torte a treat to have any time of the day. Rooms from €460.

(Kaerntner Ring 16, +43 1 501 100; imperialvienna.com)

STYLISH This small and elegant boutique hotel was formerly a 1950s student hostel but has been converted into one of the most stylish and elegant lodgings in the city. Each room at Guesthouse Vienna is marked by impeccable quality and attention to detail, which is highlighted beautifully when the light shines through the huge windows every morning. Rooms from €335. (Führichgasse 10, +43 1 512 1320; designhotels.com)

ECLECTIC A modern, boutique hotel, Ruby Marie Hotel & Bar adopts an informal, eclectic approach to luxury, making it a great choice for young travellers. With a rooftop bar, movie lounge and yoga room, it’s an appropriately trendy spot located in the creative 7th Neubau district. Ideal for fashion fiends who want to explore Vienna’s biggest shopping street around the corner. Rooms from €103. (Kaiserstrasse 2-4, +43 1 205 639 700; ruby-hotels.com)

Clockwise from top right, opulent suites at Hotel Imperial; graphic interiors at the modern and boutique-y Ruby Marie Hotel & Bar; Fabios restaurant, renowned for its chi-chi clientele; coffee and cake at the attractive Café Central.

Eat at . .

CAKE CENTRAL If you are in any way cake-inclined then a visit to “Vienna’s most attractive coffeehouse” is a must. Café Central has a sumptuous array of cakes, ideal for when a sugar hit is needed. The decor is equally stunning (high-arched, stonework ceilings dating back to 1876), which explains why it was a favourite amongst the likes of Freud and Trotsky. (Herrengasse 14, +43 1 533 3763; cafecentral.wien) MODERN CHARM Das Augustin has been attracting the young professionals and culture vultures of Vienna since 1973.

Nowadays the bar/restaurant retains its original charm whilst injecting an edgy, modern spin on the offering. The Wiener schnitzel is notably good here, as is the impressive array of vegetarian and vegan dishes, too. Another notable feature?

The outdoor terrace during the summer.

Gorgeous. (Märzstrasse 67, +43 1 982 1364; das-augustin.at) SLEEK AND SEXY Fabios restaurant offers high-quality Italian cuisine in a sleek, urban environment. Renowned for its glamorous crowd who can’t resist the upmarket food and sharp cocktails that the venue offers, this is also a fantastic spot for a romantic, fancy dinner, and definitely worth saving up for. Heavenly desserts too. (Tuchlauben 4-6, +43 1 532 2222; fabios.at)

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COMMERCIAL | DATA CENTRES | BIO-PHARMA | INTERIORS | RETAIL | INDUSTRIAL | RESIDENTIAL | CONSERVATION | EDUCATIONAL

Timesless values Innovative thinking A stunning steel and glass exoskeleton now surrounds and encases the beautiful old Scots Presbyterian church on Dublin’s Abbey Street, turning the heads of passers-by. The corporate HQ development is just the latest commercial building in Collen Construction’s impressive portfolio.

David Lee, Construction Director at the company, is immensely proud of a building that cannot fail to catch the eye.

The distinctive red Collen crane will soon disappear, allowing the building to shine, taking its place in the fast-changing panorama of Dublin’s Liffey quays. The breathtaking building perfectly illustrates the happy marriage of timeless values and innovative thinking that has made Collen Construction one of the most successful Irish contracting companies today.

In his role, David is responsible for the safe delivery of the many and varied construction projects undertaken by the 208 year- old family-owned company - in Ireland and across Europe. There are certain key principles that never change for David: “My role is all about ensuring safety, delivering the very best quality and finishing projects on time and as costed.” In David’s job there is never a dull moment. Every construction project is different.

The Abbey Street project presented a range of challenges: a busy city centre location, an adjacent live tram line, not to mention the building’s stunning but unusual design.

Every piece of the exoskeleton, imported specially from Turkey, had to be fitted to perfection for the overall vision to come to life.

Meanwhile, the protected structure it now surrounds was lovingly restored.

“It was an unusual and challenging project. But for all of us on the team it has been a brilliant, exciting building to work on.” And the sparkling structure in Abbey Street is just one of a whole range of innovative and diverse projects that David oversees in his role as Construction Director.

Across town, in Cork Street, Collen is building the high-quality Brickfield Lane student accommodation development. In Blackrock it is delivering a stunning transformation of the Frascati Shopping Centre that promises, along with an adjacent Collen commercial project, to reimagine the area.

Collen is also building two stunning office developments in Central

Park and Leopardstown. Key pharmaceutical and logistics projects ensure the company is at the heart of Ireland’s economic recovery, not to mention a series of major data centres for one of the world’s biggest tech companies at a number of strategic locations around the city, as well as in Sweden and Germany.

It all adds up to an exciting and busy daily agenda for David who began his career as an apprentice carpenter 27 years ago and progressed steadily from there.

Collen Construction is a launch partner for ISO 45001, the first international standard for health and safety in the workplace, recently launched in Ireland by the National Standards Authority of Ireland.

“We pride ourselves on what we have achieved in the area of health and safety, but we are always looking to reach and out-perform new standards,” says David. “Mindfulness in the workplace has become a key health and safety tool for the company” he adds.

Taking such a hands-on approach is very much part of the Collen family ethos and comes naturally to a business where eight generations of the Collen family has now worked.

“This incredible longevity manifests itself in the fact that the company is not merely interested in short term gains but prioritises long term goals for the people who work here and for the clients we serve,” says David. Clients understand what they are getting when they sign up with Collen, be it for a big or a small job, he says. For David it all comes down to one thing: “Our business is built on trust.”

Abbey Street, Office Development

30-32 Molesworth Street

ESB Office Fit-Out

UCD Ashfield Student Accommodation

Block H, Central Park

IRELAND UK GERMANY SWEDEN Head Office: River House East Wall Road Dublin 3 Ireland +353 1 8745411 www.collen.com

ON BUSINESS

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THIS OLD TOWN Melanie Mullan discovers that Dublin’s contemporary business life is a big draw to the city, just like its creative heritage.

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RITZ-CARLTON GENEVA, ETC Lucy White explores the swish Ritz-Carlton Hotel de la Paix, Geneva as well as hotels in San Francisco, Brussels and Belfast.

Making travel work for you

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A DAY IN THE LIFE Orecco co-founder Brian Moore shares an insight into a day in his busy Californian life at the elite sports perfomance company.

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SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Siegel+Gale chief marketing officer Margaret Molloy shares her snippets of wisdom and her favourite New York spots.

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Business

I

reland’s capital has often been a draw for wandering writers, lost poets and hungry artists, eager to follow in the footsteps of those who’ve previously found a voice or inspiration on the streets of Dublin. In more recent years the city has also taken centre stage for big businesses looking to expand their global operations. Google, Twitter, Dropbox, Etsy – among many other global power players – have all chosen Dublin as their European headquarters. A competitive corporate tax rate (12.5 per cent) has of course been a factor – an inevitable draw for keenly-focused companies and lithe startups. However a highly-educated, agile workforce, inspired by living in a vibrant and youthful city, must also take credit.

It’s not all social media giants and disruptive starter-uppers, though, as Irish tourism has also seen exciting growth. Last year’s figures from the Central Statistics Office show a 3.6 per cent increase in overseas visitors from 2016, with further growth predicted for 2018.

And then there’s the location. Dublin’s relative proximity to the rest of Europe has been another big draw, while the time-saving US pre-clearance channel at Dublin Airport has proven a boon for time-conscious transatlantic travellers.

It’s no surprise then that Dublin is fertile ground for creative industries. It hosts a multitude of tech and financial firms in and around its thriving “Silicon Docks”.

It is a compact metropolis with a richly artistic – and creatively generous – heritage, while its food and hospitality scene is in fine fettle. Yet thankfully, in all of its enterprising evolution, it has lost none of the warmth or charm that made it magnetic in the first place.

EAT

ITALIAN A read of the menu will leave your taste buds tingling and mouth watering before you’ve even ordered at Etto. Its small setting on Merrion Row and simple decor mean the focus is firmly on the food, from snacks to larger dishes, and there’s an equally captivating wine list.

Make sure to indulge in dessert too – the red wine prunes and vanilla mascarpone is highly memorable.

Etto is a popular spot, so make sure to book well in advance. (18 Merrion Road, 01 678 8872; etto.ie)

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A FINE PAIR A firm favourite on Dublin’s wine and dine scene, Ely Bar & Grill, left, has been winning awards for its wine list for many years. But the food menus at both its locations – Dublin’s Docklands and its namesake, Ely Place – are equally delicious, using produce from the owners’ organic family farm in the Burren, Co Clare.

The only problem is choosing just the one wine to enjoy from the extensive list … (22 Ely Place, 01 676 8986; elywinebar.ie)

NEIGHBOURLY Excellent quality food as well as welcoming staff are the main focus of any restaurant and Richmond Restaurant, opposite, has both in abundance – and for a reasonable price too. Recently awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, the food here is of a high standard, minus the notions. On Tuesdays, chef David O’Byrne showcases his innovation with a five-course tasting menu that explores new recipes and flavour combinations. (43 Richmond Street South, 01 478 8783; richmondrestaurant.ie)

CONOR McCABE PHOTOGRAPHY LTD

GET SMART

THIS OLDTOWN Dublin’s creative heritage melds seamlessly with its contemporary business life, finds Melanie Mullan.

Taking place on June 21 and 22, Inspirefest, above, has combined a line-up of expert speakers in the areas of technology, science, design and the arts to create a hugely popular festival at the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre on Grand Canal Square. Tickets also include access to the Inspirefest fringe festival that includes comedy, spoken word and live music from harmonious duo Hvmmingbyrd. Tickets from €395. inspirefest.com The Airlink (dublinbus.ie) runs regular services from Dublin Airport directly to the city centre for as little as €6 each way when booked online or purchased on board. You can also get a Leap Visitor Card (leapcard.ie) for one, three or seven days, which covers the Airlink as well as transport on Dublin Bus, Luas trams, DART and Commuter train services, starting from €10.

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Business

SLEEP CONRAD HOTEL Located in the heart of Dublin’s city centre, The Conrad has well established its status as a place of luxury, since its extensive refurbishment. From the marble bathtubs to Lemuel’s, the stylish bar, interiors are plush. The Conrad also has plenty of savvy facilities and meeting rooms for business travellers – but don’t forget to rest your eyes on the bedroom views across to the Wicklow mountains.

Rooms from €395 per night.

(Earlsfort Terrace, 01 602 8900; conradhotels3. hilton.com)

REMARKABLE Dublin’s Docklands are home to many businesses and offices, which means The Marker Hotel is an excellent executive hub. The hotel’s geometric design – inspired by Ireland’s rugged landscape – its impressive art collection and warm atmosphere make for a welcoming retreat after a long day. Rooms are spacious, as are the beds, and its spa facilities and rooftop bar make downtime a joy. Rooms from €297. (Grand Canal Square, 01 687 5100; themarkerhoteldublin.com)

LUXE Making a grand entrance to the Dublin hotel scene in February, the Iveagh Garden Hotel – overlooking the gardens of the same name – is a welcome burst of colour and modern luxury in the city. Rooms are bright and comfortable with a vibrant yellow and deep teal palette. Lunch and dinner is served at Elle’s Bar and Bistro, where classic cocktails and good food go hand-in-hand.

Rooms from €259 per night. (72-74 Harcourt Street, 01 568 5500; iveaghgardenhotel.ie)

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Building the present, creating the future Delivering construction solutions, within budget and on time, for: · FDI Hi-Tech Facilities · Data Centres · Healthcare Facilities · Commercial Offices · Biopharma · Pharmaceutical · Cleanrooms · Agri/ Dairy Food · Fit-out · Infrastructure · PPP Investment And FM Services

www.bamireland.ie

Building in Ireland for 60 years; it’s in our DNA

Business

DUBLININSIDERS

Former Quinnsworth supremo Maurice Pratt and hospitality marketing expert Eoghan O’Mara Walsh work for the Irish Tourism Industry Confederation (ITIC), which represents tourism throughout Ireland.

Maurice Pratt, Chairman ITIC What are the perks of doing business in Dublin?

It’s a compact city, the central business district is walkable; it’s pro-business, with a welcoming, “can do” culture. After hours, the restaurant, pub and nightlife scene is second to none.

more than tell. Be comfortable with silence, especially at times of great pressure or stress; there is a classic poem by WB Yeats The Long Legged Fly in which it says “Like the long-legged fly upon the stream/His mind moved upon silence”. It has served me well over the years.

Where is your favourite place in Ireland for a weekend getaway?

I love the sea, so anywhere on the coast – Ardmore, Dingle, Lahinch, the Wild Atlantic Way …

Last year saw a 15 per cent rise in US tourism, four per cent in Europe, but a seven per cent drop in UK tourism. What can be done to attract British holidaymakers? The growth in US tourists is not a surprise: it has been driven by a combination of a strong dollar and economy, but the key catalyst has been the expansion of new routes into Ireland by the likes of Aer Lingus, supported by Tourism Ireland’s targeted marketing campaigns.

The downturn in British tourism commenced with sterling’s decline after the Brexit vote to leave the European Union. Uncertainty and nervousness about the future, and the currency decline

Favourite restaurants? We’ve such a wide choice of great restaurants now – my favourites include L’Ecrivain, Peploe’s, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, and the dining rooms in the Shelbourne, the Intercontinental and the Merrion hotels.

What is the best career advice you have gleaned over the years?

It’s the simple stuff, to be honest.

Be yourself, be comfortable in your own skin. Be curious, ask

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have resulted in an increase in staycations and have made the UK a more attractive destination for inbound tourism. Our response must include increased marketing investment in the UK via Tourism Ireland, and a sharper focus on retaining competitiveness, value for money and the VAT rate of nine per cent.

What are the greatest challenges/ opportunities with Brexit? Brexit has the potential to be damaging to our economic growth prospects and to Anglo-Irish relations, which had been at an all-time high before the vote to leave. Our goal must be to retain the closest possible alignment; for tourism, that would look like retaining liberalised access for air and sea travel between the UK and the EU, the retention of the common travel area and a soft border. One of the positive outcomes of the Good Friday Agreement, now 20 years old, was the marketing of the island of Ireland as a single tourist destination. It has brought growth,

opportunity and jobs across the 32 counties, and to change that post Brexit would be regressive.

What does Dublin do best? Dublin is a city of people and place; that is our DNA. I would confess that I was late to the party in appreciating the importance of art, culture and storytelling. It has taken my involvement in tourism to fully appreciate that, particularly if you witness it through the lens of a tourist. Our weather is not always warm but Dubliners are.

Our industry is in a great place at the moment but we must focus on the future: deliver more iconic attractions – for example, another Storehouse-type venue on the northside, build the coastal curve boardwalk for cycling and walking and deliver a second runway at Dublin Airport. Dublin has fantastic natural amenities on which we could capitalise more.

Tourism can propel our economic engine for the next decade – if we make the right investment choices and policy decisions.

Eoghan O’Mara Walsh, Chief Executive ITIC What key changes to tourism in Ireland have you noticed over the past five years? Tourism has boomed in Ireland, which is testament to the quality of the Irish visitor experience. It’s also a good thing for the economy, with one in ten people now employed in the sector. As a country we are at record levels in terms of inbound tourism volume and value and the benefits are being felt in all parts of the country. The single biggest development has been the Wild Atlantic Way, a cleverly branded proposition to define the Western seaboard of Ireland – it has proven a huge draw internationally.

What do you like most about doing business in Dublin? I love the fact that it is a compact city, easy to get around, with the bay and mountains within touching distance. It is rare as a capital city in so far as it offers tradition, culture and heritage in abundance while also being modern and

progressive. Crucially, of course, it is a hub of connectivity with more than 20 direct air routes to North America and a multitude of European destinations available.

Ireland and Dublin used to be described as being at the edge of Europe but now, to paraphrase our Taoiseach, it is instead at the centre of the world.

Where do you like to go for day trips from Dublin? I like taking the Dart out to Howth or Dún Laoghaire, a stroll on the pier, and lunch in one of the many great fish restaurants is always worthwhile. A short spin by car or bus will take you to Powerscourt estate in Wicklow and its fabulous gardens, house and lakes, with the famous waterfall nearby. Kildare is also a short day trip and well worth including is a visit to the Irish National Stud and Japanese Gardens.

Where are your favourite spots to take clients for dinner in Dublin city? Dublin has great choice when it comes to dining

out these days, which is why I have many a favourite spot. I love going to Juniors on Bath Avenue with my wife Yvonne for a casual bite. Depending on the occasion, with clients L’Ecrivain on Baggot Street offers superb fine dining, Luna or Etto off St Stephen’s Green are a real treat, and Pickle and Hang Dai on Camden Street are good for something different.

Earlier this year you recommended that State-owned buildings be opened to the public. Which buildings are you most keen to see unveiled? A classic example in Dublin is The Custom House on the River Liffey.

Completed in 1791, this is one of the finest architectural buildings in the city and is currently used primarily as civil service offices. It should be opened up fully to the public and used as the glorious tourism asset it could and should be. The private sector could also play its role – it seems a real shame that the old Parliament building in front of Trinity College operates as a bank, when it could be a wonderful visitor experience

reflecting a key part of Ireland’s history.

Airbnb: Good or bad? Airbnb is certainly part of the tourism landscape globally and is here to stay – it’s driven by consumer demand. It has also proven necessary in recent times as the growth in visitor arrivals to Dublin has outstripped the increase in hotel rooms. The good news is that new hotels are currently being built in Dublin, which are due to open this year, so there’s a great variety of accommodation for tourists to choose from.

Which lesser-known spots in Dublin are you personally fond of? I always enjoy visits to Dublinia, which celebrates the city’s Viking and Medieval history. St Patrick’s Cathedral is 800 years old and has a fascinating history and equally interesting architecture. A newer attraction that is well worth a visit is Epic in the CHQ Building on the River Liffey. It shows, in an experiential and interactive manner, how the Irish influenced and shaped the world.

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Business Hotel

Swiss SWOO!

Geneva’s Ritz-Carlton Hotel de la Paix truly lives up to its name, finds Lucy White.

F

irst impressions count and you can smell the Ritz-Carlton Hotel de la Paix before you see it. The five-star’s signature scent, Figue Noire by Esteban Paris, exudes black fig, sandalwood and violet leaves in a heady blend that’s surprisingly tropical for a city fuelled by crisp, mountain air from the Swiss and French Alps.

The hotel has an international outlook, with a Nordic fusion restaurant, Fiskebar, and large-scale tapestries of notable peacemakers on every floor, from Victor Hugo to Giuseppe Garibaldi (paix meaning peace). The property dates back to 1865 but it reopened in 2017 after a multi-million-franc refurbishment, the investment instantly evident in the lobby: marble and gold-leaf Corinthian columns, chequerboard floors and a crystal chandelier.

Here, a genial, impeccably mannered concierge is discretely at your service.

The city’s monumental horizon – Mont Blanc in the middle distance – is referenced in the geometry of the rug patterns, while a serene palette and ergonomic design in guestrooms are outshone by views of Lake

Geneva. In dual-aspect rooms you can even brush your teeth while admiring the Alpine vistas, tall bathroom doors opening out on to Juliet balconies. And an impressive tech USP: guestroom sockets are plentiful and USB ports are built into the wall on either side of beds, rendering plugs and travel adaptors redundant for charging phones and tablets.

If you’ve time for pleasure on your business trip, visit the Calvinist St Pierre Cathedral on Place du Bourg-de-Four for bird’s-eye views of the city (though not if you’re claustrophobic, as the spiral stairwells are extremely narrow) and prebook dinner at the Old Town’s Chiang Mai Thai Restaurant, which is smaller than a cuckoo clock but big on flavour.

Rooms at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel de la Paix cost from CHF 500. (Quai du Mont-Blanc 11, +41 22 909 6000; ritzcarlton.com)

3 NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK

BELFAST Bullitt isn’t new – it opened in 2016 – but we’re revisiting it here in premature anticipation of the Dublin Bullitt opening on Capel Street in 2019. An exercise in ergonomic excellence, this nofrills, great value Nordie four-star will really come into its own this summer with rooftop bar Babel, which launched in nippy October.

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SAN FRANCISCO Nods to Art Nouveau and Art Deco are everywhere at the multi-milliondollar-refurbed Galleria Park Hotel, in honour of this Financial District building’s historical bones. Far from pastiche, though, interiors are light, bright and playful. One of its two bars specialises in Cognac cocktails, the other champagne – ideal for celebrating that business deal. Doubles from $369. jdvhotels.com

BRUSSELS The Jardin Secret hotel is so serene that you could almost forget you’re in the lively Saint-Boniface neighbourhood.

All rooms face into the plant-tastic courtyard, many with window seats for maximum mellowness. Nordic-style soft furnishings, books and cacti all add to the feeling of a very Belgian version of hygge.

Doubles from €64. jardinsecrethotel.be

Business

I LOVE VISITING …

A DAY IN THE LIFE

Irish sports scientist Dr Brian Moore, from Galway, started his career working with world champion track and field athlete Sonia O’Sullivan before co-founding Orreco, the data and elite sports performance company. He works between Galway, Sligo and Los Angeles. orreco.com 6am I wake up in our LA apartment in Hermosa Beach and have breakfast with Lorraine and Daithí, our one-year-old son. My working day is usually split into three: the first part is dedicated to our customers and how to help them, the second is on growing our business by talking to new teams and the final part in the evenings is thinking about the future. As we are eight hours behind Europe, it’s a good time to catch up with news from colleagues including our research and development team at the NUIG Innovation Centre and our partners at the Insight Centre for Data Analytics. I’m excited to get progress reports on FitrWoman, a new breakthrough app for women – we’re finalising the launch of version 2.0, which will be available on iTunes and Google Play.

7.30am I walk to our office at Manhattan Beach, around seven kilometres away. I’ll make a few other calls and get updated on our athletes or teams in training or competing around the world, or listen to a podcast. Being a data convert I’ll record the 10,000+ steps on my Fitbit while plotting my own return to running, as dozens of determined rollerbladers and joggers pass by and the Pacific sparkles in the morning sunlight. It really is a lovely way to start any day. It’s a long way from Co Sligo, where Dr Andy Hodgson and I started Orreco but, with phones and video calls, it always feels nearby.

8.45am As Europe winds down, I pick up on my East and West coast messages from clients such as the National Basketball Association (NBA) franchise and the Dallas Mavericks. At 11am, I might hail an Uber to the Riviera Country Club near Santa Monica for a coffee with golfers Padraig Harrington and Graeme McDowell.

They’re investors in Orreco and big believers in

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the data to help with their performance. Both are in town preparing for a PGA tour event and it’s great to see these two Irish legends.

1.30pm Running any business can be full on and I’m working hard to pay attention to my own nutrition and training. At home in Ireland, we try to eat healthily and get out for walks around Sligo. Lunch with our athletes is typically veggies with chicken or fish and fruit afterwards for the antioxidants. I fuel up and head to Sports Rehab LA over on the far side of Bel Air – it’s where NFL and NBA players go to train in the off-season and where Orreco is about to open its new performance lab.

3pm It’s time to head to the domestic terminal at LAX for a shuttle to San Francisco. It’s just a 90-minute flight up the coast and I’m going there to meet some of our investors including True Ventures, who were early stage backers of Fitbit, Peleton and Ring, the doorbell video service bought by Amazon in February.

6pm The short flight offers a good opportunity to turn the phone off. It’s a constant juggling act and blizzard of multitasking, which will be familiar to every business owner or CEO. It’s important to me that we keep things moving but I’ll do a short Headspace meditation to chill out. Often as little as 15 minutes can do the trick before grabbing a chance to review work we’re doing for NBA clients around travel and nutrition protocols.

9pm Before lights out, I squeeze in a few pages of Red Notice by Bill Browder. If I can’t sleep I’ll hit the Headspace app, it’s the only reason that our sports science team allows us to have any electronics in the bedroom!

PAXOS It's an Aer Lingus flight to Corfu town and then a spin on the Flying Dolphin hydrofoil to the stunning island of Paxos. We head to the village of Lakka and spend a blissful two weeks swimming, enjoying seafood from the fishermen’s daily catch and topping up the vitamin D levels. It’s my digital detox as my phone is always turned off for the duration.

DEL MAR It’s a spectacular drive down the coast from LA to San Diego and, just before you reach Torrey Pine, you’ll hit the beautiful Del Mar. It’s the home of the famous racetrack and was a favourite haunt of the Rat Pack. Any chance we get for a long weekend we’ll head to the surf, and an evening meal at Jake’s (jakesdelmar.com) is always amazing.

INIS MEÁIN I was lucky to spend time writing my PhD on stunning Inis Meáin on the Aran Islands. From prehistoric forts, to staying with Ruairí and MarieThérèse at Inis Meáin suites (inismeain. com), to visiting the knitwear factory, they’re all a must. There are miles of beaches and just the one pub, where there’s always music and fun to be had.

Welcome to a world of difference

From Castles and Manor Houses, to Country Hotels and City Boutiques, each of our hotels is as diverse as the destinations that define them. Offering true local character and an authentic welcome, experience the very heart of Irish hospitality.

Discover your perfect stay, or give an experience unlike any other with a gift voucher for a stay at one of our idyllic properties.

Explore the full collection of over 60 hotels at, originalirishhotels.com or, call us on +353 1 295 8900

Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT Margaret’s

SMART CITY performance. When you assume you know it all, you close yourself off to new opportunities.

4

Know your brand Siegel+Gale is one of the world’s top brand consultancies.

Our work has taught me the value of defining my personal brand. My defining characteristics are gravitas, grit and grace. Gravitas speaks to credentials, grit to work ethic and grace to respect for others. I aspire to bring those qualities to everything I touch.

MARGARET MOLLOY is the New York-based global chief marketing officer at Siegel+Gale, a strategic branding firm and an Omnicom agency. She is also the creator of #WearingIrish, a platform that champions Irish fashion designers through social media, events and other programmes.

1

Keep your promises I grew up on a farm, the eldest of six children. From an early age I learnt the relationship between keeping promises and earning a reputation. As a marketer, I now recognise that a promise delivered is the key attribute of an enduring brand.

There is no substitute for hard work. In business, there is little shortage of spoken ideas but I’ve found execution is the ultimate differentiator.

2

Strive to simplify In our often-overwhelming world, time is everyone’s most precious resource.

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Never underestimate the power of simplicity – the ability to distill the complex into something clear and fresh. As a leader, I assume the role of chief simplicity officer.

This responsibility requires me to focus on driving the initiatives that have the greatest impact.

3

Be an eternal student Education has been my pathway to professional advancement and it didn’t stop when I graduated from Harvard Business School.

I believe in life-long learning – both formally and informally. I constantly challenge myself to stay relevant and deliver peak

5

Build your community When I arrived in New York City, I knew no one.

I quickly realised that my success was dependent on my ability to connect. Today, I take great pride in the community I’ve built. It’s not enough to build a network, it’s essential to nurture and replenish relationships constantly. I seek out diverse perspectives to achieve better business outcomes.

6

Dedicate resources to giving back As the creator of #WearingIrish, I set out to use my marketing expertise and network to help Irish fashion designers tell their stories to the world.

In doing so, my vision is to uplift all Irish industry, business and talent by positioning Ireland as a creative nation.

DESTINATION Even after two decades of living in New York City, its vibrancy and sense of possibility never fail to captivate me. The cityscape is constantly evolving, with somewhere new to explore around every corner and countless worldclass museums on our doorstep.

STAY The splendour of the unique French decor abounds at the Baccarat Hotel in Midtown and provides a stunning surrounding in which to enjoy afternoon tea while gazing at one of Baccarat’s signature chandeliers. (28 West 53rd Street, +1 212 790 8800; baccarathotels.com)

EAT Shake Shack is always popular with my family. The customer experience is consistent – delicious food at a reasonable price, served quickly, which is a priority for the impatient New Yorker in me. shakeshack.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily, to Newark daily and from Shannon to JFK six times per week.

Ballygarry House is owned and operated by the McGillicuddy family and celebrates 60 years as a hotel this year. It has established itself as a leading Irish hotel, recently listed as the Top 5 Hotel in Ireland on TripAdvisor for 2018.

This charming 4 Star Property is located in the South West of Ireland, overlooking the Kerry Mountains on the Wild Atlantic Way. It is at the gateway to the Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry and many Championship Links Courses.

‘As we celebrate 60 years of hospitality, we understand what makes us stand out - our attentive staff, our food offerings, the country house charm along with our plush guest bedrooms, our award winning Nádúr Spa & our passion for doing everything right every time’

Padraig McGillicuddy Proprietor of Ballygarry House Hotel & Spa

Co. Kerry, Ireland www.ballygarryhouse.com

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH GEI131 PA

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome On Board 126 Your Comfort and Safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Boxsets 138 Music & Radio

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Welcome On Board Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight.

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on YouTube.

Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. .

Conas atá tú? Ho w are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you.

When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

MONAGHAN’S

CASHMERE STORE Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store”

“D&C has set the benchmark for casual Italian dining “D&C hasinset benchmark for casual Italian dining - Hotpress Magazine thethe capital..” in the capital..” - Hotpress Magazine “Dunne & Crescenzi has changed the way the “Dunne & Crescenzi has changed the way the Irish eat” - Tom Doorley Irish eat” - Tom Doorley “Pioneering & reigning” - The New York Times “Pioneering & reigning” - The New York Times

Frommers Travel Guide

Valued collection of Italian restaurants

Tom & Suzanne Monaghan

A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom and Suzanne Monaghan in their store at 21 South Anne Street. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere selling a wide range of classic sweaters in the latest styles and colours for both men and women.

As they celebrate 58 years Tom and Suzanne would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents (terms and conditions apply)

M Monaghans Cashmere, 21 South Anne Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

www.monaghanscashmere.ie

de Restaurant Gui enna Top 100 cK M e th of rt Proud to be pa 14-16 South Frederick St. Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6759892

11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4 Tel: 353 (1) 6673252

Blackrock Shopping Centre Co. Dublin Tel: +353 (1) 5252012

Dundrum Town Centre Tel: +353 (1) 2166764

Kildare Village Tel: +353 045 535850

www.dunneandcrescenzi.com

Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Your Comfort and Safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times.

We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network on our A330 aircraft, you must switch off flight mode on your device – once our crew advise it is safe to do so. Follow the simple steps on page 146.

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Are you ready for take-off and landing?

• Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode?

• Is your seatback fully upright?

• Is your armrest down?

• Is your tabletop stowed?

• Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting.

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Aer Lingus Wild Atlantic Way Inflight Video Guide Available Now Transatlantic In-flight Entertainment - TV / Destinations & Lifestyle (A330 Fleet)

Nominate your favourite Wild Atlantic Way activity, attraction, castle, craft shop, restaurant or entertainment experience

www.inflightflix.com/nominate InFlightFlix

Your Comfort and Safety

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take-off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

Airbus 33

0-200

For your Safety

Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable:

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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• Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

Fóg ra Sáb háil tea cht Pour vot re Séc urit é Für ihre Sich erh eit Par a su Seg urid ad

Per la vos tra Sicu rezz Säkerh et a om bor d Sikkerh et om bord Sikkerh ed om bord Plea se do

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ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

• Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

• Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

• You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

ove from

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restaurant

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manifesto

We are famous for our pizzas and home-made pasta, having won many medals and awards at the world pizza championships.

We are also known to have the most extensive and exclusive Italian wine list in Ireland.

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Book a table today and let us transport you to the amalfi coast with our delicious food, excellent wine, charming staff and great atmosphere.

au

ran

t ou tsid e o f It a l y !

Manifesto Restaurant, 208 Lower Rathmines Road, Dublin 6. bookings: manifestobookings@gmail.com

handcrafted jewellery collection in sterling silver & 14k gold each piece is engraved with 12 symbols that represent some of the most historical eras in irish history.

Available at all leading Jewellery & Gift Stores.

For more information visit: www.historyoďŹ reland.ie CRAFTED BY

tel: 01 496 8096

website: www.manifestorestaurant.ie

Box Office Movies

Black Panther After the death of his father, T’Challa returns home to Wakanda to take his place as king.

But when a powerful old enemy reappears, his mettle as king – and Black Panther – is tested.

Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight.

Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky.

A Wrinkle in Time

PG

Black Panther

PG13

Darkest Hour

PG13

Early Man

PG

Father Figures

R

110 mins | Adventure Meg travels through time and space to find her father.

Stars Oprah Winfrey, Reese Witherspoon, Mindy Kaling

134 mins | Action Facing an old enemy, T’Challa’s mettle as king is tested. Stars Chadwick Boseman, Michael B Jordan, Lupita Nyong‘o

125 mins | Biography Tough decisions made during the early days of World War II. Stars Gary Oldman, Lily James, Kristin Scott Thomas

88 mins | Animation Dug and Hognob unite his tribe against a mighty enemy. Voiced by Tom Hiddleston, Eddie Redmayne, Maisie Williams

112 mins | Comedy Two brothers hit the road in order to find their father. Stars Owen Wilson, Christopher Walken, JK Simmons

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Maze Runner: The Death Cure

R

Red Sparrow

144 mins | Action A hero embarks on a mission to find a cure for a virus.

Stars Dylan O‘Brien, Ki Hong Lee, Kaya Scodelario

138 mins | Mystery A Russian spy is forced to use her body as a weapon.

Stars Jennifer Lawrence, Joel Edgerton, Charlotte Rampling

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

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R

Star Wars: The Last Jedi

PG13

The 15:17 to Paris

R

The Clapper

R

152 mins | Action The Last Jedi heroes join the legends in an epic adventure.

Stars Daisy Ridley, Mark Hamill, Carrie Fisher, Adam Driver

94 mins | Drama Three Americans discover a terrorist plot aboard a train.

Stars Alek Skarlatos, Judy Greer, Anthony Sadler, Spencer Stone

90 mins | Comedy 15 minutes of fame destroys the life of a clapper. Stars Amanda Seyfried, Leah Remini, Ed Helms

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN

OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO

Lady Bird Set in Sacramento, California in 2002, amidst a rapidly shifting American economic landscape, Lady Bird is an affecting look at the relationships that shape us, the beliefs that define us, and the unmatched beauty of a place called home.

Game Night

R

Hostiles

R

100 mins | Action A group of friends try to solve a murder mystery. Stars Jason Bateman, Rachel McAdams, Kyle Chandler

133 mins | Adventure Perilous journey of an army captain and a Cheyenne chief. Stars Christian Bale, Rosamund Pike, West Studi

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR IT ES

The Greatest Showman

PG

The Post

PG13

Jumanji: Welcome PG13 to the Jungle

Justice League

PG13

Lady Bird

R

117 mins | Action Teenagers get sucked into the video game world of Jumanji. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Karen Gillan

120 mins | Action Batman enlists the help of allies to defeat a new enemy. Stars Ben Affleck, Gal Gadot, Jason Momoa

94 mins | Comedy An artistically inclined girl comes of age in Sacramento.

Stars Saoirse Ronan, Laurie Metcalf, Tracy Letts

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE ES

The Shape of Water

R

104 mins | Musical A musical that celebrates the birth of show business. Stars Hugh Jackman, Michelle Williams, Anne Wheeler

116 mins | Biography An unprecedented battle of the press and the government. Stars Meryl Streep, Tom Hanks, Sarah Paulson

122 mins | Drama A woman discovers a secret experiment in a government lab. Stars Sally Hawkins, Octavia Spencer

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Ferdinand

PG

Peter Rabbit

PG

108 mins | KidZone The tale of Ferdinand, a bull with a big heart. Voiced

by Kate McKinnon, Bobby Cannavale, David Tennant

95 mins | KidZone An adaptation of Beatrix Potter‘s classic tale of a rabbit.

Voiced by James Corden, Fayssal Bazzi, Domhnall Gleeson

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |

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Movie Classics

A selection of classic movies is available onboard today along with some popular movies such as Miss Congeniality, Sleepless in Seattle and Alien. Plus don‘t forget to check out some of our new and awardwinning Irish shorts and features too!

A E R L I N G U S TA K E O F F F O U N DAT I O N

Alien R 117 mins | Stars Sigourney Weaver, Tom Skerritt, John Hurt

Alien 3 R 115 mins | Stars Sigourney Weaver, Charles S Dutton, Charles Dance

Assassin‘s PG13 Creed 115 mins | Stars Michael Fassbender, Marion Cotillard

Catwoman PG13 102 mins | Stars Halle Berry, Sharon Stone, Benjamin Bratt

Crazy Heart R 107 mins | Stars Jeff Bridges, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Colin Farrell

EN

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN DE IT ES

Edge of PG13 Tomorrow 114 mins | Stars Tom Cruise, Emily Blunt, Bill Paxton

Fever Pitch 103 mins | Stars Colin Firth, Ruth Gemmell

Fight Club R 139 mins | Stars Brad Pitt, Edward Norton, Meat Loaf

PG13 Goal! III 94 mins | Stars JJ Feild, Leo Gregory, Kuno Becker

Gone Girl R 149 mins | Stars Ben Affleck, Rosamund Pike, Neil Patrick Harris

EN FR DE ES

EN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

R

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

We are delighted to offer award winning short films from the Aer Lingus Irish Filmmaker Competition; Goodbye, Darling

by Maria Elena Doyle, The Lost Letter by Brian Willis and Leap of Faith directed by Mark Smyth. Also available is The Secret Market by Garrett Daly and Martina McGlyn.

Goodbye, Darling

PG13

13 mins | Drama A love story of an Irish Volunteer in the 1916 Rising.

Stars Aoibhinn McGinnity EN

Grudge Match PG13 113 mins | Stars Robert De Niro, Sylvester Stallone

How to Be Single 108 mins | Stars Dakota Johnson

Mars Attacks! PG13 105 mins | Stars Jack Nicholson, Sarah Jessica Parker

Miss PG13 Congeniality 107 mins | Stars Sandra Bullock, Michael Caine

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE IT ES

Pelé: Birth PG of a Legend 107 mins | Stars Vincent D‘Onofrio

Prometheus R 124 mins | Stars Noomi Rapace, Michael Fassbender

Sleepless PG in Seattle 104 mins | Stars Tom Hanks, Meg Ryan

The Curious PG13 Case of Benjamin Button 162 mins | Stars Brad Pitt

The Heat R 114 mins | Stars Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

The Hunger PG13 Games: Mockingjay – Part 1 122 mins | Stars

Jennifer Lawrence

Victory PG 117 mins | Stars Michael Caine, Sylvester Stallone

Zodiac R 158 mins | Stars Jake Gyllenhaal, Robert Downey Jr

2001: A Space Odyssey 122 mins | Stars Keir Dullea

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

R

Independence PG13 Day 138 mins | Stars Will Smith, Bill Pullman

Leap of Faith

PG13

14 mins | Drama Kelly is captivated by her new neighbour. Stars Leah Egan EN

The Lost Letter

PG

8 mins | Animation A boy tries to spread Christmas cheer. Voiced by Kate Winslet EN

The Secret Market G

27 Dresses PG13 111 mins | Stars Katherine Heigl, James Marsden

PG13

23 mins | Drama A surgeon‘s past life haunts her.

Stars Victoria Smurfit EN

EN FR DE IT ES

I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S

Lighthouse PG13 5 mins | Stars Edel Crehan, Shane Joseph Curry

Making PG the Grade 87 mins | Documentary

Men of PG13 Straw 20 mins | Stars Patsy O‘Sullivan, Brendan O‘Sullivan

Purgatory PG13 Speech 5 mins | Stars Matthew Kerry

Release PG13 72 mins | Stars Andie McCaffrey Byrne, Dessie Byrne, John Connors

Time PG13 Traveller 11 mins | Stars Barry Ward, Tom Doran

The PG13 Farmer 6 mins | Stars Eddie Lenihan

The PG13 Silent Child 20 mins | Stars Rachel Shenton, Maisie Sly

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

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MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

Limerick City

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NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK

Supper club with live music every Friday night 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

Present a picture of this ad and receive a comp glass of bubbly 109 O'Connell Street, Limerick City +353 (0)61 516 450 | info@alexfindlaterandco.ie

LIFEST YLE

TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.

Will & Grace (2017) Will & Grace reunites its ever-hilarious cast for a revival season that picks up right where the show left off 11 years ago – adding a fresh relevance and a series of stories that make sharply funny use of the passage of time. On board is Series 1, Episodes 1 and 2.

BUSINESS

D O C U M E N TA R Y

Billion Dollar Deals And How They Changed Your World S1, EP1, How we are sleepwalking into a sinister and dystopian future CNBC Conversation A glimpse at the CEO of L’Oréal, Jean-Paul Agon Marketing. Media. Money Mars is one of the biggest food companies The Edge The latest innovations within the beauty industry The Ripple Effect S2, EP1, The esports network Twitch TV Trailblazers Gwyneth Paltrow‘s move from Oscar winner to CEO C O M E DY

It‘s Always Sunny In Philadelphia S11, EP8 & 9, Charlie and Mac try to catch a thieving leprechaun Killinaskully S5, EP1 & 2, Theo‘s mother leaves him nothing in her will Modern Family S8, EP3 & 4, Luke and Manny compete for the senior class presidency New Girl S5, EP10 & 11, Jess returns from jury duty and heps Cece to move out The Big Bang Theory S11, EP3, 4 & 5, Sheldon and Amy struggle with their wedding plans

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America: Facts vs Fiction S4, EP10, American history‘s most renowned rivalries America's National Parks S1, EP5, A wilderness jewel Yellowstone National Park An Idiot Abroad S2, EP1, Karl spends time on a desert island Before I Kick the Bucket One-Off Special, A terminally ill young woman goes in search of a bucket list Building Ireland S2, EP5, How Ireland’s great engineering achievements came to be Ireland‘s Greatest Robberies S1, EP1, The most ambitious and exciting heists of recent decades Islanders S1, EP1, Fishing communities of the islands off the Irish West Coast Keeping the Castle One-Off Special, A modern story of struggling finances and family responsibility Rhys Jones’s Wildlife Patrol S1, EP2, Dr Rhys solves all manner of wildlife crimes and conflicts Tracks & Trails S1, EP4, A walk in Letterfrack, County Galway

50 Ways to Kill Your Mammy S3, EP4, Baz tries to scare his 70-year-old mammy Clodagh‘s Irish Food Trail S1, EP1, Clodagh McKenna travels in Ireland Donal‘s Meals in Minutes S1, EP2, Modern meals, lots of tips and hints Michael Bublé: Live at the BBC One-Off Special, The Canadian artist‘s exclusive show Missing You One-Off Special, Ireland‘s emigrants through their video calls to home Room to Improve S10, EP1, Dermot Bannon and Lisa O‘Brien transform a 1940s cottage in Malahide Slow TV The Northern Railway train ride in real time The Undateables S7, EP1, A series about disability and dating Travel Man S2, EP3, A weekend in the happiest place on earth, Copenhagen Vogue Williams – On the Edge S1, EP1, Vogue explores gender dysphoria in our generation NEWS & EVENTS

In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

SPORT

Chronicles of A Champion Golfer S1, EP1, Padraig Harrington Clubland S1, EP12, Featuring the club profile of Liverpool FC Gary Neville‘s Soccerbox S1, EP4, Striker Matt Le Tissier‘s most memorable moments The Burning Issue S1, EP4, Exploring the issues of fight sports The Immortals S1, EP7, The greatest track and field athlete, Usain Bolt The Road to Russia S1, EP2, A potential dark horse: Switzerland K I DZ O N E

Dora the Explorer S7, EP9, Dora goes to the doctor for a check up!

Giving Tales S1, EP1–9, Classic fairy tales by Hans Christian Anderson Grubz Up! Compilation, Children‘s show how to make tasty meals.

Shaun the Sheep Compilation, A sheep who doesn‘t follow the flock Spongebob Squarepants S10, EP1, SpongeBob and Patrick get hooked on the latest fad The Day Henry Met? Compilation, Every day Henry meets something or someone new Tom & Jerry Compilation, A classic cartoon, Tom tries to catch Jerry

World Cup Highlights Keep up to date with the biggest event of the summer on board Aer Lingus with the World Cup Highlights.

Bridget & Eamon Bridget & Eamon is a comedy that follows the lives of a married Irish couple living in 1980s rural Ireland. Starring Bernard O‘Shea and Jennifer Maguire, the show is based on the sketches that appeared on the Republic Of Telly comedy show. On board is Series 3, Episodes 1 and 2.

CLIFF TOWNHOUSE Lunch

Pre-Theatre

Dinner

Afternoon Sea

Modern, Fine Dining Seafood Restaurant and Oyster Bar located in the heart of Dublin City.

Open Monday - Sunday 22 St. Stephens Green, Dublin 2

www.clifftownhouse.ie

Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland.

Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.

Try our Limited Edition Powers “The Long Hall” Single Cask Release.

Cask No.11791 was bottled especially for us to mark our 250th Anniversary.

OPEN DAILY AT 12 NOON 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590

+ 353 (0)1 638 3939

Peaky Blinders Season 1 & 2 R Peaky Blinders is an epic gangster drama set in the lawless streets of post-war Birmingham on the cusp of the 1920s. The story centres on the Peaky Blinders gang led by the fierce Tommy Shelby (Cillian Murphy), a crime boss set on moving up in the world no matter the cost.

Boxsets Choose from some of the finest boxsets to watch on board today. Delve into the hugely popular Peaky Blinders or the quirky drama Fargo. Also on board is Suits, The Walking Dead and Get Shorty.

Suits, Season 7

The show evolves around the notion of social classes and empires, and how they rise and fall with a startling sort of predictability. As the show suggests, over time, empires become too big, too corrupt, and too complicated to sustain themselves and eventually, they collapse.

PG13

Episode 1: Mike returns to Pearson Specter Litt.

Episode 2: Harvey butts heads with his partners over a bold move.

Episode 3: Louis and Harvey wrangle with new firm dynamics.

Episode 4: Mike and Rachel struggle with their wedding plans.

Episode 5: Mike juggles his work with helping a hurting family.

Episode 6: Harvey tries to tell Donna about Paula.

Episode 7: Lipschitz forces Louis out of his comfort zone.

Episode 8: Donna receives a surprising proposition.

Episode 9: Rachel is surprised when her dad offers to join forces.

Episode 10: Louis aids Alex when his client comes under fire.

Get Shorty, Season 1

R

Episode 1: Miles travels to LA to collect on a debt for his boss.

Episode 2: Miles heads back to LA to pitch his movie script to Rick.

Episode 3: Rick discovers the unusual ways Miles and Louis work.

Episode 4: Miles‘ Hollywood producer facade becomes legitimate.

Episode 5: Katie and Emma visit Miles in Los Angeles.

Episode 6: An unexpected visitor on the studio lot changes plans.

Episode 7: Budget issues threaten production of Admiral‘s Mistress.

Episode 8: Miles struggles to keep production challenges at bay.

Episode 9: Amara sends her goons out to kill Miles and Louis.

Episode 10: Miles faces a final reckoning with his family.

The Walking Dead, Season 7

R

Episode 3: Daryl is taken to the Sanctuary, home of the Saviors.

Episode 4: Negan and his Saviors visit Alexandria.

Episode 5: Maggie and Sasha recover from their grief at the Hilltop.

Episode 6: Tara encounters a group of female survivors.

Episode 7: Carl and Jesus find themselves heading to the Sanctuary.

Episode 8: Things quickly spin out of control for Negan.

Episode 9: Jesus leads Rick and the group to the Kingdom.

Episode 10: Carol and Daryl have an emotional reunion.

Episode 11: Eugene begins to work for Negan and the Saviors.

Episode 12: The group scavenge for supplies.

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Fargo Season 3

R

The third series of Fargo centers on Emmit and his younger brother Ray (both played by Ewan McGregor). Emmit sees himself as an American success story, whereas Ray is more of a cautionary tale.

Living in his successful brother‘s shadow, Ray has a chip on his shoulder about the hand he‘s been dealt – and he blames Emmit. Their sibling rivalry follows a twisted path that begins with petty theft but soon leads to murder and mobsters. David Thewlis stars as VM Vargas, a mysterious loner and true capitalist whose bosses plan to work with Emmit.

Historic O’Neill’s

the famous Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

• Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous • Pour Your Own Pint tables Carvery serving only the finest Irish • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s Lonely Planet rate us as one of the our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a Top 5 Places to find ‘Real Irish food fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys in Dublin’ and malts • Irish Music and Traditional Irish • HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan Dancing 7 nights-a-week with major international league games.

• Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Largest selection of local Irish can’t be beaten for quality and value.

Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, 11 items plus tea/coffee, toast, jam representing as many of the local and butter is only €8.95, Pictured Craft Breweries as possible, rotating below. This special offer is available and guesting beers Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am.

For over 175 years everyone has enjoyed a warm Irish Welcome in The Temple Bar.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

The Chef carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery.

Lovers of whiskey have enjoyed Irelands largest whiskey collection, complimented with live Irish music sessions daily at the friendliest spot in Dublin.

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

2w0in1ne7r

Camila Cabello

Music & Radio

The sleek and mellow Camila is the long-awaited solo debut album from Camila Cabello. Cabello pays homage to her Cuban heritage on the vibrant and sultry Latin-and-pop fusion Havana and sings about how an addiction to love messes with the chemicals in her brain in Never Be The Same.

Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

RTÉ Lyric FM Marty in the Morning RTÉ lyric fm The Full Score with Liz Nolan RTÉ lyric fm EASY LISTENING

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels INDIE

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

POP

Breakfast Republic 2FM Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs RTÉ Gold Digital Radio Al Dunne, RTÉ Gold, 4 decades of great music Ronan Collins RTÉ Radio 1, Featuring listeners’ old favourites, plus the best of the new and some surprises in between 98FM’s Top 10 Summer Songs with Barry Dunne 98FM

Marty in the Morning RTÉ lyric fm is a music station with a classical bias whilst also offering the listener a vast and eclectic array of music from all periods, continents, genres, styles and expressive forms.

Join Marty as he takes listeners on a journey to de-stress on board your flight today.

ROCK

Marty Miller Radio Nova

IRISH

Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E

CAKE – Culture & Arts for Kids and Everyone Abie Philbin Bowman, RTÉ Junior

TA L K

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One Two documentaries are on offer from RTÉ Radio 1‘s multi award winning Documentary On One. The first is on Russian spies and their ties to Ireland, and the second is on Pauline Dunne, an introvert who sees the positives in people with quieter dispositions.

AU D I O B O O K

Fenian‘s Trace The story of two boys raised as brothers in early 1900s Ireland who choose different paths when the rebellion comes but fall in love with the same woman.

Written by Sean P Mahoney and narrated by Liam Carney.

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Breakfast Republic on 2FM Jennifer, Keith and Bernard wake up the nation every weekday morning with comedy and music on 2fm. For this special Aer Lingus episode of Breakfast Republic they bring you just some of their favourite sketches and songs which even include some originals by Bernard.

Justin Timberlake

We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!

Pop superstar Justin Timberlake enters a new musical chapter through the release of Man of the Woods, presenting his most exploratory music in years as a result of experimenting with elements of R&B, funk, pop, soul and Americana.

Lead single Filthy and ballad Supplies are the album‘s highlights.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

Bill Withers Just as I Am Bob Dylan Blonde on Blonde Daryl Hall & John Oates Private Eyes Eurythmics Sweet Dreams (Are Made of This) Michael Jackson Thriller Wham! Make It Big A LT E R N AT I V E

Everything Everything A Fever Dream First Aid Kit Ruins Grizzly Bear Painted Ruins Moon Taxi Let The Record Play The Lone Bellow Walk Into a Storm Tom Grennan Found what I‘ve Been Looking For

CL ASSIC AL

Benjamin Richter Memory Lane Francesco Grillo The Four Seasons Leif Ove Andsnes Sibelius Michael Sanderling Beethoven & Shostakovich: Symphonies Nos 1 Sergio Azzolini Mozart & Michael Haydn: Bassoon Concerto & Serenade Yaara Tal Polonaise

Craig David Craig David is back with a bang! The beloved garage singer who brought us hits such as Fill Me In and Re-Rewind made a comeback in 2016 and it was like he never left! Now he returns with his seventh studio album, The Time Is Now, and you’ll wonder how you ever survived without him!

COUNTRY

Home Free Timeless Jessie James Decker Southern Girl City Lights Kelsea Ballerini Unapologetically Kenny Chesney Live in No Shoes Nation Russell Dickerson Yours Tim McGraw The Rest of Our Life ELEC TRO

DVBBS Blood Of My Blood Kygo Kids In Love Lost Frequencies Less is More Michael Bersch Departure Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Memories ... Do Not Open IR ISH

Celtic Thunder Inspirational Christy Moore On the Road Daithi In Flight Kodaline I Wouldn‘t Be Little Hours Too Much Patience Simon Taylor Now Then

JA Z Z

Avishai Cohen 1970 Dee Dee Bridgewater Memphis... Yes, I‘m Ready Keyon Harrold The Mugician Lyambiko Love Letters Markus Stockhausen Far into the Stars Miles Davis Star People Stacey Kent I Know I Dream: The Orchestral Sessions M E TA L

Arch Enemy Will to Power Motörhead The Very Best of Ozzy Osbourne Diary of a Madman Ozzy Osbourne No More Tears Papa Roach Crooked Teeth Soilwork The Living Infinite OPER A

Christian Gerhaher Romantische Arien Jonas Kaufmann L‘Opéra Olga Peretyatko, Ural Philharmonic Orchestra & Dimitry Liss Russian Light Pretty Yende Dreams The London Oratory Schola Cantorum Boys Choir Sacred Treasures of England Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets

P OP

Camila Cabello Camila Fifth Harmony Fifth Harmony Justin Timberlake Man of the Woods Miley Cyrus Younger Now Paloma Faith The Architect Superfruit Future Friends

ROCK

Arcade Fire Everything Now Cage The Elephant Unpeeled Dreamcar Dreamcar Nothing But Thieves Broken Machine The Isley Brothers & Santana Power of Peace Toto Greatest Hits – 40 Trips Around the Sun

RNB

Boyz II Men Under the Streetlight Craig David The Time Is Now Miguel War & Leisure Nai Palm Needle Paw The Isley Brothers The Ultimate Isley Brothers Tone Stith Can We Talk

K I DZ O N E

Archie Campbell Kids, I Love ‘Em! Arthur Fiedler Classics For Children Carole King Really Rosie Judson Mancebo Babies Love Queen Spongebob Squarepants Spongebob Squarepants – The Yellow Album The Backyardigans The Backyardigans – Born to Play

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Where are you flying to?

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens.

Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have.

Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Passport Control and Security Screening

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Geataí Gates

101-335

Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Departure Gate

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow

401-426

Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Flight Connections for North American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

“It’s crystal clear”

A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.

+353 (0) 51 317000 houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

Our European and North American Route Network

Anchorage Juneau

Ketchikan

Edmonton

Vancouver

Bellingham

Victoria

Seattle Portland

Saskatoon

Eugene

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Bellingham

Victoria

Wenatchee

Seattle

Pasco Yakima

Glacier Park Great Falls

Spokane Walla Walla

Portland Redmond Eugene

Thunder Bay

Missoula

Belgrade

San Jose

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Grand Rapids

Denver

Reno

Kansas City

Fort Wayne Chicago

Oakland

Louisville

Wichita Springfield Las Vegas

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Tucson

Providence

Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia

Greensboro

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

El Paso Houston

Halifax

Portland ME

Washington (National)

Knoxville

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Austin

Newark

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore

Lexington

Memphis

Albany

Hartford

Washington (Dulles)

Little Rock Phoenix

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Moncton

Burlington Syracuse

Cincinnati

Nashville

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Akron Canton

Dayton

Indianapolis

St Louis

San Francisco Fresno

Des Moines

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids Omaha

Toronto

Fredericton

Montreal

Ottawa

Salt Lake City

Santa Rosa

Duluth

Billings

Medford

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

New Orleans

Savannah

Tallahassee Pensacola

San Antonio

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

Honolulu Honolulu Kahului Kahului

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to twelve US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines. You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Preclearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet) Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by City Flyer)

Route map correct at time of print.

Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg

Amsterdam London London City London Southend Heathrow

Southampton

Berlin

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid

Alicante Murcia Malaga Faro

Tenerife

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Lanzarote TenerifeGran Canaria

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your tablet, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Athens Catania

Izmir

Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

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Staying connected on board*

Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.

THE SMARICTE CHO

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Mobile Network on board

With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**.

Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

1 Switch on

$15.95

$32.95

Wi-Fi on board in six steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode.

Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Aeromobile

2 Connect

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

3 Welcome SMS

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

International roaming rates apply.

4 Connected

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 146 |

Aer Surf

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3 Purchase Internet Access

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.

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GORILLAS in her midst

The moment when Belfast-born travel writer Anna Hart found herself rummaging through the undergrowth in Rwanda. s an adventure travel writer, my life hasn’t been short of pinch-me moments and trips that take my breath away.

But one recent trip stands out, an adrenaline-spiking animal encounter that forever changed how I see the world, human behaviour and our responsibility to the planet.

I was one of a group of other adventurers and writers dispatched in May 2017 to hack through the bamboo rainforest of the Virunga Mountains in Rwanda, to come face-to-face with a silverback gorilla in the wild. Our base was Virunga Mountain Lodge (volcanoessafaris.com), a luxury safari lodge on the site where Dian Fossey, of Gorillas in the Mist fame, set up her first conservation camp. Visitor numbers in Virunga are strictly kept at eight humans per gorilla

A

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family per day, making tracking the gorillas a remarkably intimate and refreshingly uncrowded African adventure.

Along with our guide and a ranger, we set off, clad in khakis, gardening gloves and gumboots, to hack our way through the bamboo and vegetation, in search of the specific gorilla family that our group has been allocated. It’s a sweaty, steamy hike, that’s made even more intense by the knowledge that at any point we could find our family in the undergrowth.

Essentially, we’re rummaging around in the undergrowth for gorillas. Happily, when we find them, they are gracious and generous hosts, unperturbed by human company and contentedly getting on with the business of playing with each other, munching bamboo and ambling around – and generally being awesome. It feels for

Furry friends – Anna is enchanted by the warm welcome from the gorillas in the Virunga Mountains.

all the world as if we’re a family of humans who have popped over to our gorilla cousins for tea. As I hold my breath and marvel at the sheer size and power, yet extraordinary gentleness of this species, I find myself profoundly moved by meeting our near-relations. And I feel thoroughly ashamed that my fellow humans have betrayed them so viciously in the past.

As humans, a gorilla’s only predator, we don’t deserve such a warm welcome. But these families of gorillas have all been carefully “habituated” (gradually acclimatised to human presence by wardens over years before tourists are introduced), a process pioneered by Fossey herself. The pulse-racing experience of seeking out these mighty apes through bamboo forests in the shadow of the dramatic, mist-shrouded Virunga volcanoes is as thrilling as it is romantic, and gorilla-tracking is a thoroughly feel-good wildlife adventure. Fifty years after Fossey launched her efforts to rescue the mountain gorilla from the brink of extinction, conservation and tourism have united to produce a rare conservation success story.

When Fossey began her research in 1967, her census put the mountain gorilla population at an estimated 240; it has now risen to 900. But meeting mountain gorillas was a humbling reminder just how precious, and how fragile, the world we take for granted really is.

Anna Hart’s travel memoir Departures (Little, Brown Book Group) is out now.

Follow Anna’s adventures at @annadothart.

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