Cara Magazine August 2012 by Image Publications

AIB - Ireland’s leading Corporate Bank to Foreign Direct Investment

Sharing Your Vision in Ireland For International Companies operating in Ireland, AIB is the Corporate Bank of choice. We’re a corporate bank that thinks globally. We see the big picture – we do everything we can to support visionary ideas. We’re experienced, with dedicated teams working in sectors in which they have specific expertise. We strive to fulfil all your banking requirements and overseas companies locating here have benefited from that for years. We have a dedicated unit focused on Foreign Direct Investment in Ireland. But we also remember that, for a company setting up a business

Diarmuid O’Neill Head of AIB Corporate Banking Ireland AIB Corporate Banking Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4

in Ireland, getting the finance in place is just the first step. Because it’s not just about supporting business requirements, it’s about supporting people, and making the move as simple as possible. In an increasingly complex business world, AIB Corporate Banking still believes in keeping it personal.

www.aib.ie/fdi

Tel: +353 1 641 4808 Email: diarmuid.e.o’neill@aib.ie www.aib.ie/fdi

AIB Corporate Banking Ireland and AIB Corporate Banking are registered business names of Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered Office: Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173

AIB Corporate Banking Ireland Making Business Happen

Contents August NEWS

04 ARRIVALS We meet Aer Lingus’s well-travelled passengers at Dublin’s T2

On track Maria Doyle Kennedy

07 NEWS DIARY Great dates for your August agenda 08 NEWS HOTELS From a bijou boutique in Dublin to a pop-up in London, the smartest hotel choices

14 NEWS BUSINESS Smart Traveller – Boston or bust? Mark Schwartz has the city’s best business locations

48 Kilkenny cool

20 NEWS BEAUTY TO GO Summer body oils; Ellie Balfe reveals the ﬁnest 22 NEWS BOOKS Shelf Life – Bridget Hourican leafs through the latest releases 24 NEWS DIARY Courses for horses – Siobhán English has the form for August 26 NEWS DIARY London views – Ben Webb discovers the best for Olympics spectators 28 NEWS ON THE RADAR Santiago de Compostela – Eoin Higgins brings out the highlights

REGULARS 91 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO BARCELONA Ro Molloy shares her favourite hang-outs 94 48 HOURS IN BRUGES Compact and serene – Tony Clayton-Lea visits the beautiful city 97 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT What’s on for August – movies, music and inﬂight information 120 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Nine-yearold Zara Campbell remembers a wonderful trip to London

36 THE NEW LONDON IRISH London city has attracted some of Ireland’s greatest young talents – Amanda Cochrane speaks to those who’ve made it their home

62 A SWING & A PRAYER Golf enthusiast, David Robbins, visits Orlando’s most iconic courses 74 MÁLAGA UNCOVERED With an eye out for the unusual, Oda O’Carroll traverses the less travelled highways and byways of the Andalucían hotspot

16 NEWS PEOPLE What’s in my Suitcase – musician Julie Feeney opens her suitcase 18 NEWS PEOPLE On my Travels – photographer David Jenkins puts us in the frame

30 THE MANY FACES OF MARIA Actress Maria Doyle Kennedy has a new album out this month; Tony Clayton-Lea chats with our very own renaissance woman

48 BEWITCHED BY KILKENNY This August, the city’s Arts Festival pulls in visitors from wide and far – Pól Ó Conghaile is enchanted

10 NEWS RESTAURANTS International dining with Eoin Higgins 12 NEWS SHOPPING Gadgets to go – holiday musts from Sive O’Brien

FEATURES

Fit feet

74 Making the most of Malaga

Contributors

editOriaL editor Frances Power deputy editor Eoin Higgins editorial consultant Laura George editorial assistant Carlynn McCarthy contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Ellie Balfe, Suzie Coen

Shooting mostly travel and portraiture, eMiLy MOtt works for a variety of international publications. This was her debut shoot for Cara, see page 74, and her first time visiting Málaga. “Málaga is one of those often overlooked cities. What a discovery – sparkling on the edge of the Mediterranean. Málagueños are so welcoming and after the rains of June it was heaven to wander about in the dry heat of Andalucía and sip cool sweet wine with tapas in the shade. The most beautiful experience was watching the sun sink beyond the mountains at night. And then it was lovely to head to the mountains where we stayed on a ranch amidst the bougainvillea and oleander with 200 Andalucían horses.”

art art director Clare Meredith acting art director Joanne Murphy adVertising account director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie advertising Manager Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie advertising copy contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie

Editor of award-winning Image Interiors & Living magazine, aManda cOchrane interviewed a group of six young Irish creatives who have moved to London to kick-start their careers (and their social lives), see page 36. Amanda lives in London and commutes weekly to Dublin. Juggling work with family life – she lives with her two children and husband in Kensal Rise – can be complicated, but every now and then she has the best of both worlds. “Travelling around London to interview this amazingly determined group of young people made me fall in love with the city all over again, but also made me feel incredibly old!” admits Amanda. “Their determination to exceed in their respective crafts was truly inspiring.”

adMinistratiOn head of Pr & Promotions Linda McEvitt +353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie Office Manager Tina Koumarianos accounts Olga Gordeychuk accounts assistant Lisa Dickenson bOard Of directOrs Managing director & Publisher Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie chairman Patrick Dillon-Malone director Ann Reihill director Robert Power Printing Boylan Print Group OriginatiOn Typeform

Currently in the Russian Caucasus working on a project about the next winter Olympics in Sochi, Matt MarriOtt teamed up with David Robbins to shoot this month’s story on Orlando’s iconic golf courses, see page 62. Matt began playing at an early age but admits he spends more time these days in the rough than on the fairway. “Living in Florida you are treated to one of the highest concentrations of both golf courses and sunny days in the United States. Unfortunately, Florida’s ubiquitous sunshine deserted us for several days while on this story but we soldiered through (once with the help of a few beers) and were rewarded with excellent weather to round it out.”

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

Singer and actress maria Doyle Kennedy Kilkenny Golfing in orlando málaga Bruges Barcelona Santiago de compostela

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 tO adVertise PLEASE CALL NOËLLE O’REILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE

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August 2012

cara magazine August 2012

Cara Magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. Image Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

Danny of The Coronas On LOndOn’s bright Lights

Time for Tee

A golfers’ paradise in Orlando

PLace in the sun

Discover the hidden Málaga

arts and crafts

Summer in Kilkenny

Weekend getaWay The best of Bruges

August 2011

| 1 complimentary copy

On the cOVer

Danny of The Coronas, photographed by Verity Welstead.

Arrivals

Summer is almost over, but Dublin’s T2 is as busy as ever. Cara magazine met some foreign visitors and Irish holidaymakers on their return home. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

 LORRAINE HACHETT HACHETT, left, and her daughter EDITH, met Lorraine’s best friend SARAH HONE, right. Sarah was meeting Edith for the first time.

The Dunne boys, from left, RONAN, AIDAN and CONOR rush to meet dad, TREVOR, as he arrives home from Frankfurt after a four-month trip.

 CIARA McCLAFFERTY, left, Mc and JENNY MELIA, right, are all smiles as they return from a factfinding business trip to Bologna.

WORDS BY CARLYNN McCARTHY

 BERNIE COYNE greets her Australian niece, CAITLIN COYNE, COYNE who is here for her grandfather’s 80th birthday celebrations.

 Flying Dutch business woman, NATASCHA VERSCHURE, is only making a brief visit, but has very fond memories of a St Patrick’s day spent in Dublin a few years ago.

AUGUST 2012

 Fresh off her Aer Lingus flight from Paris, interpreter SUSAN FOLAN is excited by the good life in the French capital.

 JOHN LYNN, left, and ASHLEY QUIGLEY, QUIGLEY right, were spotted making their way stealthily out of arrivals. The couple were trying to avoid being spotted by John’s family who were there to collect his brother from the airport. John and Ashley were hoping to surprise them at home.

 BOUCHEBEL SONAH, left, and her friend, NGUYEN LUYEN, love Irish culture so much Nguyen has decided to get married in the beautiful Cloonacauneen Castle just outside Galway city.

Every great city has an iconic store. A store which celebrates luxury, creativity, service and the very best Irish and international brands since 1849.

WELCOME TO

BROWN THOMAS GRAFTON STREET DUBLIN, PATRICK STREET CORK, O’CONNELL STREET LIMERICK, EGLINGTON BUILDINGS GALWAY WWW.BROWNTHOMAS.COM

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ❃

❃

NEwS DiAry

August

What’s happening – dates for your diary

Jig, Dublin Jig recounts the history of traditional Irish dance. The story of its evolution is helped along with clips from archive footage and contemporary recordings. Shows are every Wednesday through Sunday and tickets allow you entry to the museum where you can peruse their collection of Irish dance memorabilia. Tickets from €12. jig.ie

Castlepalooza Music and Arts Festival, Offaly Cheap, cheerful and held in a 6th century castle, Castlepalooza will rock your socks off, or at the very least make you jive in your wellies. The festival, sponsored by Aer Lingus, sees The Charlatans and Jape take to the stage. Runs August 3-5. Three-day pass plus camping is a mere €85; castlepalooza.com

Northalsted Market Days, Chicago Street festival, Northalsted Market Days, takes place over the weekend of August 11-12 and this year’s nostalgia-fest features performances by Olivia Newton John, The Pointer Sisters, and many other denizens of memory lane; northalsted.com AEr LiNguS FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO ChiCAgO DAILY.

See No Evil, Bristol Curated artists paint Bristol red … and blue and yellow this month. Urban artists use Nelson Street, an area in need of regeneration as their canvas. While See No Evil gives the forgotten city space a new lease of life, sister festival, Hear No Evil, organises a New York-style block party, live projections and outdoor concerts. Runs August 13-16; seenoevilbristol.co.uk

La Tomatina, Buñol Running annually since the 1940s, La Tomatina is one of the most popular, visitor-attended festivals in Spain. Proceedings begin with the climbing of the palo jabón, a greasy pole with a large jamón attached to the top, of course. Once a nimble climber manages to knock the hapless ham from the top of the pole, it’s time to don your goggles as tomato-flavoured chaos reigns. AEr LiNguS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO ALiCANTE DAILY, ExCEPT MON AND FRI, FROM BELFAST TO ALiCANTE MON, WED, FRI AND SUN AND FROM CORK TO ALiCANTE THUR AND SAT.

27 uS Open, New york

Watch the biggest and best names in tennis battle it out for the last Grand Slam title of the year in Arthur Ashe Stadium. The actual matches run from August 27 to September 9. Can’t make those dates? Catch the qualifying rounds from August 21-24 with a special Arthur Ashe kids’ day on the 25th. Free of charge. Tickets for the Grand Slam, from $30; usopen.org

AEr LiNguS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NEw yOrk DAILY AND FROM SHANNON TO NEw yOrk MON, WED AND FRI.

AEr LiNguS FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO BriSTOL, DAILY AND FROM SHANNON TO BriSTOL, MON, TUE, WED, THUR, FRI AND SUN.

august 2012

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news hotels

Escape

Lavish resort or a temporary abode in the thick of the action – hotels for tuning in, and out. KellY’s hotel, DUBlIn

Situated in Dublin's creative and social hub, Kelly’s has made a name for itself as a small (just 16 rooms) but cool city spot. Its loft-style penthouse, in particular, is quirky, comfortable and won’t break the bank. The official eaterie and the place where breakfast is served is the nearby l’Gueuleton restaurant, whose rustic take on French brasserie fare frequently earns it a place on Dublin’s best restaurant lists. Within walking distance of some of the city’s biggest tourist attractions: Trinity College, Christ Church and Dublin Castle to name but a few, Kelly's is a canny choice for savvy city break devotees. Rooms from €79. 35-37 South Great Georges Street, 01 648 0010; kellysdublin.com

A RooM FoR lonDon, lonDon

Whether you describe it as a one bedroom pop-up hotel or an inspirational artist installation, A Room For London is a tiny structure with big ideas. The space was created by architect David Kohn and artist Fiona Banner, who wanted to craft a space that was relaxing and inspiring for both the guest and fellow creatives. Every month, the “boat” which is perched atop the Queen Elizabeth Hall in the Southbank Centre just off the river Thames, invites a range of artists, writers and musicians (Imogen Heap stayed recently) to stay and use their time there to create something new that can be shared digitally via podcasts and blog postings. Room from £120. Southbank Centre Belvedere Road SE1 8XX, +44 20 7734 4800, aroomforlondon.co.uk AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN, SHANNON, CORK AND BELFAST TO lonDon heAthRow DAILY.

ACMe, ChICAGo

The Rezidor group has opened its first hotel on the Spanish island of Gran Canaria. With a list of facilities as long as your arm, including both fresh and saltwater pools, this plush coastal resort aims to please. Parents can drop the little ones off at the hotel’s kids’ club and go to the spa, play tennis or wander off to the nearby town of Arguineguín, where they can indulge in some retail therapy at the local market (on Tuesdays only) or in the town's designer shops. After dark you can let your hair down with cocktails on the rooftop terrace. Rooms from €188. Carretera GC-500, ES Arguineguin, +34 928 150 400; radissonblu.com/resort-grancanaria

Edgy design, central location and complimentary Wi-Fi faster than a speeding bullet, the Acme Hotel, Chicago’s new boutique alternative, has it all. The hotel prides itself on reflecting the culture that surrounds it. Co-owner Gene Kornota says: “Chicago is known for its creativity, free-thinking artists and vibrant neighbourhoods, the Acme hotel was designed to reflect all of those qualities.” All rooms have the latest in audio-visual technology. Guests can download and view their own content through 46-inch LED TVs with easy Apple and HDMI connections, so whether you want to tune in or tune out, this hotel is for you. Rooms from $219. 15 East Ohio Street , +1 312 894 0800; acmehotelcompany.com

AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO GRAn CAnARIA, TUE, THUR AND SAT AND FROM BELFAST, MON AND FRI.

AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO ChICAGo DAILY.

RADIsson BlU ResoRt, GRAn CAnARIA

some of the new additions include an Take a walk on the wild side at the Newpark Hotel's new mini farm in Kilkenny, the little ones. flynnhotels.com ostrich, alpacas, pot-bellied pigs and an adorable kid goat; a perfect day out for 8|

august 2012

news restaurants

Food File

From slick Nordic sophistication to easy Dublin cool, Eoin Higgins is out to lunch. tHe potteD pIg, carDIFF

not typically the go-to town for foodie thrills in the uK, Cardiff is pretty bereft when it comes to inviting nosebags. That said, if you enjoy a good curry house, then you have plenty of choice. But if subcontinental doesn’t appeal, then the Potted Pig comes highly recommended. The signature dish, Potted Pig, served as a starter, comes with tart little pickles and crunchy warm toast; it is a worthy opener. For those who don’t dig on swine, truffled Welsh rarebit is another winning beginning on a menu that is all about well-crafted, old timey British dishes executed with a pinch of French influence. Ps the £10 two-course lunch represents smashing value, the Welsh mackerel with samphire and cockles stands out. 27 High street, Cardiff, +44 29 2022 4817; thepottedpig.com aer LIngus FLIEs FRom DuBLIn To carDIFF DAILY.

cHez DoMInIque, HeLsInkI

With respect, the name does suggest a “salubrious” Peckham wine bar from an old episode of Only Fools & Horses. 1980s nomenclature aside, the truth is entirely at odds with the connotation, thankfully. And how envious of Helsinki-bound grub hounds we are as a result. This Finnish michelin two-star has a sleekness of character that impresses with ease – modern, beautifullydesigned furnishings, clean lines and a style of food presentation that verges on artistic without being too inaccessible. In the kitchen, award-laden chef Hans Välimäki doesn’t only add a sense of humour to his executions, his confident use of unusual flavours and textures reveals a hand, and heart, in comfortable cahoots with the very best of French and nordic produce. Richardsgatan 4, Helsinki, +358 9 612 7393; chezdominique.fi aer LIngus FLIEs FRom DuBLIn To HeLsInkI, TuE, THuR AnD sAT.

tHe FuMBaLLY, DuBLIn

Dublin-based food nuts Luca D’Alfonso and Aisling Rogerson seem to be onto a good thing if queues for their tasty (and delightfully good value) lunchtime offerings are any indication. Embedded deep in the creative hub of Dublin 8, The Fumbally is a welcome addition to an area that has traditionally been pretty sparse when it comes to interesting dining options. But top-notch (comfort) food is just one nicety in a space that is as creatively inviting as it is eclectically fitted out. It is hard to distinguish whether The Fumbally falls into the category of café or restaurant, maybe because there’s nothing quite like it in Dublin, but the invitation to come, eat, drink, linger and be social is hard to decline. Possibly Dublin’s finest cup of coffee on offer too. Fumbally Lane, Dublin 8, 01 657 4518; thefumbally.ie

great Lake, cHIcago

Following Alan Richman’s gush in GQ: “This pie – creative, original – represents everything irresistible about the new American style of pizza-making.” Great Lake has garnered equal parts bile and benevolence from fickle food bloggers. The bile? For the most part, complaints centre on the wait, in some cases more than an hour-and-a-half, to get served. And the benevolence? The web also swims with rhapsodies on Great Lake’s dedication to seasonal ingredients, choice artisan cheeses, and all round deliciousness. Worth a visit? For foodies, yes, it’s probably the best pizza pie in town. For those looking for zippy service with a smile, perhaps try the mcDonald’s ‘round the corner. Pro-tip: call in your order ahead of arrival and get it to go. 1477 W Balmoral Avenue, Chicago, +1 773 334 9270 aer LIngus FLIEs FRom DuBLIn To cHIcago DAILY.

es a host of great foodie events Aw shucks! The Carlingford Oyster Festival runs from August 9-12 and featur restaurants offering an including a lively artisan street market, colourful entertainment and local . array of fresh, innovative fish dishes. Visit carlingford.ie for further details 10 |

August 2012

Sourced in the Burren. Farmed only for us. Aged to perfection. Pasture to plate.

ely wine bar, 22 Ely Place, Dublin 2 ely bar & brasserie, IFSC, Dublin 1 ely gastro pub, Grand Canal Square, Dublin 2 book online or call + 353 1 633 9988 www.elywinebar.com

NEWS SHOPPING

Gadgets TO GO

Turn up the wattage on your workout with these portable ﬁtness ﬁtness accessories. By Sive O’Brien.

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10 1

1 REFLECTIVE RUNNING JACKET Vapor Flash by Nike, €242 at nike.co.uk 2 INTELLIGENT WATER BOTTLE HydraCoach, €29.80 at ﬁrebox.com 3 BLUETOOTH HEADPHONES JayBird Sportsband 2, €114.99 at 5050.ie 4 SUNGLASSES Terrex Fast by Adidas, €195 at sportsshadesonline.com 5 TRAINING SYSTEM Adidas MiCoach Pacer, €140 at adidas.ie 6 MOTION-TRACKING BRACELET Jawbone UP, €79.99 at jawbone.com 7 FOOT GLOVES Komodo Sport, €94.50 at ﬁtfeet.ie 8 HYDRATION BACKPACK CamelBak HydroBak, €46 at cyclesuperstore.ie 9 SKIPPING ROPE €24.99 at giftgenies.com 10 GPS SPORTS WATCH Nike +, €149 at nike.co.uk

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AUGUST 2012

news Business travel

Smart Traveller

The best places to do business in historic Boston? Lisa Hughes finds out.

Little Black Book BOSTON

5 BEST BUSINESS HOTELS FRANKFURT

As chairman of Arnotts Ltd and CEO of Palladin Capital Group, Mark Schwartz does business in cities across Europe and North America. Here, he explains why Boston is his favourite.

Why is Boston so great for the business traveller? It is one of the most liveable and workable cities in the US, with a vibrant and diverse business community, from high tech and bio tech to investment management and retail. You’re only one phone call away from being introduced to whomever you want to meet. And, while business may be high powered and intense, people are understated and casual – I rarely wear a tie in Boston. Getting around … Boston is easy to find your way around. You can walk many places but taxis are abundant and the “T” is an inexpensive way to get from Cambridge to Beacon Hill or from Back Bay to the financial district. Best place for business meetings … Henrietta’s Table (1 Bennett Street, Cambridge; henriettastable. com) for breakfast with VCs and politicos; Bristol Lounge at the Four Seasons (200 Boylston Street; fourseasons.

com) is great for a meeting and drinks, or Catalyst (300 Technology Square; catalystrestaurant.com). Best for business lunch … B&G Oysters (550 Tremont Street; bandgoysters.com) in the South End for more casual lunch or dinner; Sorellina (1 Huntington Avenue; sorellinaboston.com), where the tuna sushi appetiser is a must, or Mistral (223 Columbus Avenue; mistralbistro.com) for a business dinner; The Met Back Bay (279 Dartmouth Street; metbackbay.com) off Newbury Street for lunch or a drink after work. Best business hotel in this city ... All the usual high-end and moderate chains are good, but also consider Copley Square Hotel (47 Huntington Avenue; copleysquarehotel. com), Nine Zero (90 Tremont Street; ninezero.com) or XV Beacon (15 Beacon Street; xvbeacon.com).

3 How available is Wi-Fi? It is widely available in Boston but, when in doubt, stop by a Starbucks. Tips for making business travel less costly on time and budget … Making the most of new technology such as travel apps and online check in make staying on top of details and delays easy. My tip for successful business travel … I try to do one non-business activity or visit a new part of whatever city I visit. Most business travellers go from airports to hotels to meeting rooms without ever getting to know the city they’re in.

Must-have travel gadget ECHO SMARTPEN Echo’s newest Smartpen is a business travel essential. Complete with a processor, screen, memory, microphone, speaker and audio jack, this nifty mini-computer still functions as a rather thick ink pen but can also be used to record audio. Finally, you can upload apps onto it, including handy travel phrases in other languages. The Smartpen is available in 4GB and 8GB models and it costs from € €280.74. Buy online at dabs.ie.

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august 2012

INTERCONTINENTAL FRANKFURT Poised on the banks of the river Main and just a few minutes from the city centre, the InterContinental offers superb views of Frankfurt’s skyline and is a great spot to impress clients. (Wilhelm-Leuschner Strasse 43, +49 692 6050; frankfurt.intercontinental.com) HOTEL HESSISCHER HOF This boutique hotel is the perfect postflight stop – beautifully decorated and offering spacious rooms and suites. Although it can be pricey, the hotel is renowned for quality service and Jimmy’s Bar, a traditional piano bar, is considered one of the city’s best. (Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 40, +49 697 5400; hessischer-hof.de) FLEMING’S HOTEL FRANKFURTMESSE This hotel combines contemporary design with the latest technology and first-rate cuisine, further boasting 96 stylish rooms, all with complimentary internet access. The French Brasserie and Wine Bar has just the right ambience for a productive meeting. (Mainzer Landstrasse 87-89, +49 69 808 0800; flemings-hotels.com) PURE Trendy, with a quirky, artistic streak, Pure is highly rated as a top design hotel. Even though most guests rave about the superb breakfast buffet and the hip décor, Pure also offers spacious areas to work, complimentary Wi-Fi and a private car park. (Niddastrasse 86, +49 69 710 4570; the-pure.de) FRANKFURT MARRIOTT HOTEL The Marriott is handily located near the Conference Centre and the main train station. Inside you’ll find 25 modern conference rooms, a 24-hour business centre, three international restaurants and multiple accommodation options. (Hamburger Allee 2, +49 697 9550; marriott.co.uk)

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Frankfurt Marriott Hotel

travel happy

NEWS PEOPLE

What’s in my suitcase Life in the fast lane has become second nature to award-winning composer-singer Julie Feeney. With sell-out shows in the US this summer and a nationwide Irish tour in the autumn, she gives Suzie Coen the lowdown on her travel heroes.

WIRE FRAME HEADPIECE €175 at ﬁonamangan.com

CAMERA Canon EOS 55OD, from €699.99 at Conns Cameras, 54 Clarendon Street, Dublin 2, 01 677 7179; connscameras.ie

PHOTOG RAPH

BY TONY KINLIN

YSL LA LAQUE COUTURE FUCHSIA NEO CLASSIC €24.50 at Arnotts, 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1, 01 805 0400; arnotts.ie

ET R JACK LEATHE es, €450 Hyn Joa n n e onic.com -t le y st t a

BLUE CRYSTAL, PERSPEX AND GLASS COLLAR Joanne Hynes, €520 at Brown Thomas, 88 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, 01 605 6666

RED 1950S DRESS Stop Staring!, €225 at Anastasia Boutique, 114 Ranelagh Road, Dublin 6, 01 491 2037; anastasia.ie

THE LITTLE HAMMER by John Kelly, €10.55 at 80 Middle Abbey Street, 01 844 8888, easons.com

K IT AS H ; EYEL The Loop E S t a FAL 2 1 ac , € by M .ie op lo th e

LITTLE RIPPLES by Eric McGrath, €9.99 at iTunes.com

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AUGUST 2012

CR È M E D E LA MER MOISTURIS ER €127 at Brow n Thomas

APPLE MACBOOK PRO from €1,219 at apple.com/ie

WHERE LEGEND LIVES

Book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com and get 10% off adult tickets. Guinness Storehouse®, St James’s Gate, Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800

The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and associated logos are trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2012

Visit the magical home of GUINNESS in Dublin.

STRAP NEWS PEOPLE

On my Travels Wildlife photographer David Jenkins talks to Suzie Coen about his globetrotting adventures. Dublin-born David Jenkins travels the world capturing extraordinary wildlife images in beautiful and remote locations. He has tracked and snapped everything from polar bears to killer whales, tigers to brown bears, mountain gorillas to chimpanzees, snow monkeys to orangutans and leopards to cheetahs and great white sharks. This month sees Jenkins pack his bags for his latest trip to Cape Town, where he’s planning to shoot the great white shark. I WAS HOOKED ON AFRICA … From the moment I landed in Uganda to see the mountain gorillas of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. The continent continues to impress me with its never ending supply of stunning scenery, incredible wildlife and friendly people. TRACKING A TIGER IS THE ULTIMATE THRILL … I’ve spent a lot of time in the jungles of India and you can be sitting in a jeep relaxing when suddenly the whole terrain comes to life – the deer, the monkeys and the peacocks all suddenly start giving alarm calls and you know that the king of the jungle is on the move. There is nothing like it. BEST PLACE TO SEE ORANGUTANS IS …

At Camp Leakey in Tanjung Puting National Park in Borneo. I usually hire a boat with local crew and sleep on the river. I wake up to the ghostly call of the howler monkeys at first light and often see as many as eight orangutans in the trees around my boat. ARGENTINA IS MY LASTEST TRAVEL HOTSPOT … I was there recently to capture pictures of the Orcas [killer whales] as they hunt along the coast of Patagonia’s Valdés Peninsula. The whales deliberately beach themselves at high tide on the shore and wait to pounce on clueless sea lion pups playing at the water’s edge. The first day of the hunting season usually provides the most spectacular action images.

3 wildlife adventures

BEAR-WATCHING IN ESTONIA A two-part nature break runs September and October, kicking off in Helsinki, and moving onto Tallinn in Estonia, then by boat east along the coast to Alutaguse Park near the Russian border, where you sleep in a bear hide close to the feeding ground of a large population of brown bears. From €595 pps; magneticnorthtravel.com

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august 2012

WHALE-WATCHING IN WEST CORK September to November is peak season for whale spotting – take a fourhour boat trip to see porpoises, dolphin, minke and fin whales off the coast of Cork with local marine expert Colin Barnes. Daily sailings from Feen Pier, Castlehaven Harbour, adults, €50; children, €30; whalewatchwithcolinbarnes.com

THE MOST USEFUL THING I CARRY IS … A roll of duct tape – essential for emergency repairs and helping to waterproof my equipment. My iPhone comes in handy when passing time in airports or waiting for animals to do something interesting. My new favourite app is the Bushnell Backtrack GPS – you just turn it on, set your starting point and then no matter how lost you get in the jungle or anywhere else it directs you back to your starting point. I LOVE THE VIEW … As I fly in by float plane to Geographic Harbour on the Katmai coast of Alaska. Surrounded by lush mountain meadows and home to bubbling streams where up to 40 brown bears gather to chase salmon, the bay boasts the most picturesque landscape in the world. EVERY YEAR WITHOUT FAIL I RETURN TO … The polar bear denning (maternity) area in Canada. The journey usually takes two days (in good weather) and involves four flights, a train ride, a jeep ride and a drive in a half-track vehicle on the snow and ice. We base ourselves at an old naval cabin in the centre of the region. There’s no running water and if one person snores, everybody knows about it but the rewards are fantastic. By day we get to see and photograph baby polar bears and at night the sky is lit up by the glorious Northern Lights. I DON’T DO NORMAL HOLIDAYS BUT … I enjoy visiting Ireland two or three times a year to see family and friends. And I am planning to spend a few weeks in Italy this September. It will be the first trip in a long time where I’ll probably leave the serious camera gear behind. I’m looking forward to it!

FEATHERED FRIENDS IN SOUTHERN SPAIN Malaga is the jump-off point for a week of bird-spotting in salt marshes, estuaries and paddy fields. Expect to spot migrating raptors as they glide the thermals before heading south over the Straits of Gibraltar to Morocco. September 1-8, £1,240pps including seven nights with full board, and all meals. juliansykeswildlife.com

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NEWS BEAUTY

BeautyON THE GO

For a summery sheen that stops short of an oil slick, try dry body oils. Ellie Balfe has the latest.

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The Yves Saint Laurent Saharienne Perfumed Dry Body Oil, €41, is enriched with plant and mineral oils to nourish the skin as well as imparting a sophisticated scent. A must for sultry, summer evenings. One of the most famous dry oils is Huile Prodigieuse by NUXE, €31.35 – according to style icon, Inès de la Fressange, most

Frenchwomen own an item from this cult brand with 32 registered patents. This multitasking, silicone free oil is 20 years old this year

and is composed of six precious plant oils that help repair and refine skin while keeping it looking, and smelling, divine. The Superbly Restorative Argan Dry Oil, €31, from one of NYC’s oldest and most famous beauty brands, Kiehl’s, is chock-

full of antioxidants and essential fatty acids, which help to improve the texture of skin. This oil also works wonders in hair and helps to tame the frizz that can sometimes result from too much sun, sand and sea.

WHAT’S THE BUZZ? Yves Saint Laurent have delighted their many fans with the recent release of Le Teint Touché Eclat, €38. A soft gel with illuminating pigments that add a vivid radiance to the skin, this is a cult product of the future.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Velvet Body Oil, €48, is a decadently delightful product. Softly scented and pleasantly pampering, it’s a great way to layer fragrance while adding a light, satin sheen to skin. The Nourishing Satin Oil, €49, from Darphin contains a roll call of the most nutritious oils around. Sesame seed, saﬄower, sweet almond, Inca Inchi

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AUGUST 2012

oils which are blended with red ginger and ylang ylang essential oils to produce this potent product. It acts as a real skin saviour by increasing suppleness and smoothing any roughness. Bobbi Brown Beach Body Oil, €42, is a lovely

summer oil. Scented with the brand’s popular Beach fragrance, this contains vitamins E and C alongside avocado and jojoba oils. Lightweight and lovely, the summery scent lingers long after application. Roger & Gallet’s latest Fleur d’Osmanthus Beauty Oil, €26.75, is a zesty citrusscented oil that adds a gorgeous, natural-looking glow.

MY BEAUTY MUSTS English fashion model, Daisy Lowe,, spends much of her career travelling to and from exotic locations for editorial and commercial photo shoots. She shares her essential tips and tricks to looking good no matter how long-haul your trip. HAVE YOU BEEN TO IRELAND BEFORE? Yes! I’ve been to Dublin a few times and always have the greatest time. YOUR FESTIVAL FASHION TIPS? Face wipes are a must! Don’t wear too much eye make-up till the sun goes down and always take a hoodie. YOUR FAVOURITE MODELLING ASSIGNMENT TO DATE? Shooting with Steven Klein. YOUR MOST TREASURED ITEM OF CLOTHING? My Acne combat boots. YOUR ESSENTIAL BEAUTY PRODUCTS FOR TRAVELLING? Sisley lip balm and I always need my hydration shampoo and conditioner by Pureology. BEAUTY TIPS FOR LONG JOURNEYS? Therapist’s Secret Facial Oil by The Sanctuary – it keeps your skin hydrated for the whole ﬂight! It’s amazing ... a must for travelling. BEACH ESSENTIALS? Kiehl’s SPF Factor 50+, SkinCeuticals UV Defense SPF 50 for my face, and a Mason Pearson hairbrush. DESERT ISLAND PRODUCT? Sisley lip balm – I go through pots of the stuﬀ. FAVOURITE DESTINATION? Rio, Brazil. YOUR FAVOURITE TREND? Pastel colours. Daisy was in Ireland to launch the Chic Summer Festival at Kildare Village in July. For more information, log onto kildarevillage.com.

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NEWS BOOKS

Shelf LIFE

Home truths and modern-day horror: Bridget Hourican previews the new releases. The Devil I Know by Claire Kilroy (Faber, £12.99) out August 16. During the boom, critics kept demanding that Irish novelists write about the Celtic Tiger. Now the demand is for economic crisis books. Claire Kilroy, known for her elegant and slightly strange literary thrillers, has taken up the challenge. Set against the backdrop of the brewing debt crisis, the narrator, Tristram, a returned émigré, goes back to his home town of Howth in north Dublin to find it in the throes of an overblown property development, masterminded by a grotesque builder he has known since childhood and a shadowy businessman he has never met. Tigers in Red Weather by Liza Klaussmann (Picador, £12.99) out August 2. An East Coast novel, full of wealthy, glamorous characters in white tennis clothes, sipping Martinis. It spans 25 years, from 1945 to 1969, and two generations of two families who congregate at summertime in Tiger House, the old family estate on the upmarket island of Martha’s Vineyard. Told from five different perspectives, the action centres on a murder that takes place one summer in the late 1950s. This debut novel from Klaussmann, a New York Times journalist (and descendant of Herman Melville, writer of Moby Dick), was the subject of a bidding war and is Picador’s big release for 2012. 22 |

AUGUST 2012

Short Walks from Bogotá: Journeys in the new Colombia by Tom Feiling (Allen Lane, £20) out August 30. For decades Colombia was synonymous with Irish novelist John Banville on crime, narcotics a return to poetry. and FARC guerrillas. But now the WHAT ARE YOU READING? I recently tourist board assures visitors that ﬁnished Richard Ford’s novel Canada, Colombia es pasión, and that “the which is superb – heartrending, but only risk is that you’ll want to stay”. superb – Ford at the very top of his How successful has the clean-up BOOK form. Also I’m rereading Michael been? Documentary-maker FESTIVAL Longley’s poetry collection, A and journalist Tom Feiling, Hundred Doors, a book of an expert on Colombia Go to Edinburgh, August marvels. WHERE ARE YOU (and the cocaine trade), 11-27, for the world’s biggest books READING IT? Usually at journeyed throughout festival, not just for the featured lunchtime in my so-called the country, down writers – Yiyun Li, Alasdair Gray, Roddy oﬃce, an apartment in roads that until recently Doyle, Howard Jacobson and about the centre of Dublin that were too dangerous to 100 others – but for workshops, is so quiet I sometimes travel, talking to former masterclasses and the festival’s forget I’m in the city. What guerrilla fighters and their very own independent can compare to the pleasure ex-captives, women whose bookselling operation. of reading? And what can sons were “disappeared” by compare to a book, rather than paramilitaries and nomadic an electronic plastic tablet? tribes, to paint a fresh picture of the FAVOURITE PLACE FOR A new Colombia.

Who’s reading what?

Pulphead: Notes from the Other Side of America by John Jeremiah Sullivan (Vintage, £9.99) out August 2. Vintage is bringing out the European edition of last year’s hit in the States. John Jeremiah Sullivan, a Southerner with Irish roots, takes a road trip across the States – to the Ozark mountains for a Christian rock festival; to Florida to meet the straggling refugees of MTV’s Real World; to Indiana to investigate the formative years of Michael Jackson and Axl Rose, and to the Gulf Coast in the wake of Hurricane Katrina – and back again as its residents confront the BP oil spill.

HOLIDAY? Abroad, Italy; at home, West Cork. Hardly original. I envy people who go to Patagonia, or mountain climbing in the Hindu Kush. But like the English poet Philip Larkin, I’d love to go to China provided I could come home the same day. BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON A FLIGHT? The letters of Isaiah Berlin; there are two volumes, Flourishing and Enlightening. He was one of the great letter writers of our time, by turns witty, gossipy, profound. And/or Journey to the Abyss: The Diaries of Count Harry Kessler, who knew everyone and did everything, almost. Heavy tomes, but wonderfully comforting.

Ancient Light by John Banville is published in Viking hardback, £16.99. Vengeance by John Banville, writing as Benjamin Black, is published in trade paperback by Mantle, £12.99.

Over

Events so far... In May we hit another significant milestone at The CCD! We hosted our 500th event since opening in September 2010. In less than two years we have also won 15 Industry awards, achieved ISO 9001 and 14001 accreditation, and a customer satisfaction rating of 96%. Find out for yourself why The CCD is the perfect venue for your next event.

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news diaRy

Horsey Set

pHotogrApH By SiobhanEngliShphotography.com

From flat racing to show jumping, Siobhán English shares August’s equestrian form.

“Y

ou really can’t beat Ireland for scenery and atmosphere. You can attend any big race meeting in the world, or any major equestrian event for that matter, but what you will experience here in Ireland is truly special,” says Tamso Doyle, communications manager with Irish racing’s governing body, Horse Racing Ireland. Ireland can boast at playing host to some of the best racing festivals in the world and overseas visitors arrive in their droves for the Punchestown National Hunt Festival each April and the Irish Derby in June. “Of course the summer is always a busy time for us and apart from Galway we have several other big meetings, including the Killarney Festival, from August 29 to September 1 (killarneyraces.ie). This

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is quickly growing in popularity,” Doyle says. It is also, without doubt, one of the most scenic racetracks in Ireland, set, as it is, on the edge of the breath-taking Killarney Lakes. Another picturesque track is Bellewstown, which hosts its festival on August 22 and 23 (bellewstownraces.ie), on the Hill of Crockafotha in Co Meath, overlooking the Mourne Mountains. Leopardstown Racecourse (leopardstown.com) on the outskirts of Dublin has become one of the most popular tracks for evening meetings during the summer. “The addition of the ‘Big Top’ marquee is invaluable as it can cater for live entertainment in all weathers,” says Doyle. For those who wish to see some scenic Irish countryside, a 40-minute train ride from Dublin takes you to The Curragh racecourse (curragh.ie), where you can experience the cream

The Galway Races summeR FesTival July 30 to august 5 Spoil yourself completely and indulge in The Galway Races, left, at The Twelve package. For a modest €2,012, stay in the ultra-luxurious Suite XII, and enjoy helicopter transport to the racecourse; thetwelvehotel.ie

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august 2012

Above, Dirk Demeersman of Belgium in action in the FEI Nations Cup at last year’s Dublin Horse Show.

hampTon classic hoRse show, us august 26 to september 2 Set in idyllic Long Island, this is New York’s iconic endof-summer event, with high glamour on and off the course. Watch many of the world’s top show jumpers compete for $250,000 in the Grand Prix; hamptonclassic.com

of Irish flat racing between March and October. The Curragh hosts five Classic races each year, but an equally popular race day is August 12 for the Group 1 Keenland Phoenix Stakes. Just like horse racing, show jumping has always gripped the Irish public, which has witnessed some historic moments down through the 147 years of the Dublin Horse Show (dublinhorseshow.ie). From the modest days in the 1800s when prize money averaged £550, to the glory days of Eddie Macken in the 1970s, and right up to the present day, this five-day spectacular each August is Ireland’s premier equestrian event. Prize money now boasts close to €1 million. “And the attendance continues to grow each year,” says JP Montgomery, marketing executive at the RDS. “This can only be encouraging.” This year, the show moves its dates back by one week to August 15-19, to avoid a clash with the Olympic Games, but Montgomery believes this will not affect entries. “The Nations Cup on the Friday is always a big draw and, as usual, we will have eight teams competing as it is the final leg of the FEI [Nations Cup] Series. Perhaps we will be lucky enough to have some Olympic champions here too. “But the show is not just about horses,” says Montgomery, “there is so much more to it. Ladies’ Day, on the Thursday, is hugely popular; we have entertainment daily for all the family.” With the equestrian events at the Olympic Games only a stone’s throw away at London’s Greenwich Park, the close proximity of Ireland is bound to be too tempting for some to resist.

BuRGhley hoRse TRials, uK august 30 to september 2 This is the ultimate test for horse and rider. After all the action on cross-country day, shopaholics can indulge in the 200-plus trade stands then relax on the lawn with a glass of Pimms; burghley-horse.co.uk

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news diary

London Insider O

lympic tickets are a lot like lottery tickets – there are winners and losers. The lucky strike gold and end up with trackside seats at the Blue Riband Men’s 100m final and other moments of high sporting drama. The rest are left empty-handed. Or with back-row seats at the Synchronised Swimming. Of course, that’s totally unfair to Synchronised Swimming. Some Olympic events may not conform to everyone’s idea of true athletic endeavour, but one thing is for sure – the atmosphere at every venue of the 26 sports is guaranteed to be fantastic. And the glitzy, futuristic Aquatics Centre is worth a visit all on its own. With millions of tourists descending on London, travel – and estimating travel times – will also be a lottery. The Olympic Park, home to the Olympic Stadium, Velodrome, BMX Track, Riverbank Arena and other key venues, is in East London and serviced by Stratford and Stratford International stations. Plan your route carefully and book wherever possible. London 2012 (london2012.com), which is committed to providing full access to the disabled, has a handy Spectator Journey Planner on the website. As part of their package, ticket holders receive a Games Travelcard, which is valid for the day of the event, that allows free travel in London’s zones 1-9. The golden rule is to leave plenty of time. Security will also be very timeconsuming. One small, soft-sided

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bag is allowed per person and this must fit under your seat. You cannot take in liquids over 100ml, including water, although you can bring an empty bottle that can be filled up at water points. For those without tickets, however, there is no need to feel left out. There are thrilling sports for which no ticket is required. Be honest. Would you prefer tickets to the Men’s 10m Air Rifle or a roadside position at the marathon, that iconic feat of endurance that started in Greece? Just like the Olympics themselves. And then there’s the triathlon, its modern relative, the ultimate test of swimming, cycling and running. Both races start and finish on the Mall with Buckingham Palace a spectacular backdrop. Similarly, you could find a good vantage point on the route of the men and women’s cycling road races. Every year the French line the route of the Tour de France and go mad watching the cyclists in Day-Glo shirts pass in a colourful blur. The buzz should be amazing. For something more sedate, though, how about the 20km and 50km Race Walks? Or the sailing at Weymouth? All you need is a pair of binoculars. And a warm coat, no doubt. This is summer, after all. If it’s the Olympic atmosphere you are craving, then you can join 10,000 other ticketless spectators at the Olympic Park to watch the action on a giant screen the height of three double-decker buses. Like the other Big Screen sites – Trafalgar Square and Victoria Park

Cycle The men’s and women’s road races start and finish on the Mall. They take in the Natural History Museum, Richmond Park, the beautiful town centre of Kingston upon Thames and lots more. You need a ticket for the loop at Box Hill, Surrey, but otherwise choose a good spot and make a day of it. Men: July 28, 10am; women: July 29, 12pm.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY TREVOR HART

At the 2012 Olympic Games some of the best things are completely free, Ben Webb reports.

Look out for Irish marathon runner Mark Kenneally on August 5.

– it’s first-come first-served, so get there early. It’s destined to be like Wimbledon’s Henman Hill only much, much bigger. Seb Coe, the London Organising Committee for the Olympic Games chairman, said: “Whether it’s ‘Pistorius Park’ or ‘Dai Greene Fields’ our plans for Park Live will create a green and colourful place for fans to cheer their heroes and soak up the Olympic Park atmosphere.” At London 2012, in fact, not having ticket may be, well, just the ticket. Aer Lingus are proud sponsors of the Irish Olympic Team.

Triathlon It’s gruelling and it’s exciting – a 1,500m swim, a 40km cycle and a 10km run. British Triathlon recommends Wellington Arch at Hyde Park Corner, the South side of Serpentine Bridge, Buckingham Palace, the Hercules Monument (the eastern edge of the park) and the Lido. Men: August 7, 11.30am; women: August 4, 9am.

Marathon The women’s marathon and the men’s marathon both start and finish on the Mall and, snaking along the embankment of the Thames and through the Square Mile, take in a whole host of London’s most famous landmarks and attractions. Check out the course on london2012.com. Men: August 12, 11am; women: August 5, 11am.

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news destinations

On the Radar

Santiago de Compostela is not just a destination for weary pilgrims, the city has a lot to offer all its visitors, as Eoin Higgins discovers. SEE

The Museum of Galician People, housed in the old convent of Santo Domingo de Bonaval, is a smart route to a good grasp of the history and culture of the region. There are a number of rooms housed within, each containing fascinating exhibits. (Calle San Domingos de Bonaval s/n, +34 981583 620; museodopobo.es)

EAT

The local specialty, pulpo a la gallega – octopus served with paprika, salt and pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil – is readily available. For those seeking the upper end of the scale, Casa Marcelo serves pumped-up, sophisticated versions of local classics. (Rua Hortas 1, +34 981 558 580; casamarcelo.net)

PRAY

ugust brings passion and heat to Santiago de Compostela, the Galician city best known as the destination for fervent pilgrims who walk the famous Camino de Santiago. However, the city is not just heavenly for blistered wayfarers; the less nimblefooted devotee will also discover a destination that’s worth a trek. Here are five reasons to make that journey.

The final destination on the route for peregrinos is the tomb of Saint James, inside the city’s main cathedral (Catedral de Santiago de Compostela). A baroque façade encloses its hallowed Romanesque interior and a visit can take up more than a few hours, or not, depending on your interest in such things.

VISIT

A daytrip south to the coastal town of Baiona is a worthwhile excursion. Its historical claim to perpetuity is that it was here Christopher Columbus’ Pinta first landed, bringing news of the New World back to the Old. For beachcombers, Praia de América is a beautiful stretch of sandy beach a little further north.

DRIVE

Five hours away, by car, the snowcapped Picos de Europa mountain range is breath-taking. If that drive seems like a long haul, the scenic coastal route drive (PO552) from Baiona to the charming town of Tui on the Portuguese border is a worthy alternative. While in Tui, a short hop across the border to Valença provides more great views and good value shopping.

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IntervIew

The many

faces of

MarIa

Acting may have given Maria Doyle Kennedy a higher profile but, with a new album out this month, music remains her big passion. However, as she tells Tony Clayton-Lea, her four children always come first. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.

ollow your bliss, the wise, philosophical saying goes, and the bliss will follow you back. No, we’re not talking about Twitter blackmail but rather a form of interactive karma, hard work and a sense of ambition. Whatever it is, however, that makes a person a success on his or her own terms is something that shouldn’t be shrugged off as mere happenstance. Talk to 47-year-old mother of four, Maria Doyle Kennedy, about this – she’ll set you straight. Unlike some Irish performers who are either this or that, Doyle Kennedy is this and that. Straddling a few generations, there are some people who may remember her from her hippy chick days as the tambourine-rattling, fringe-flicking singer in Hothouse Flowers and The Black Velvet Band. Or perhaps you know her from her debut movie role

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as a struggling Dublin soul singer in The Commitments? It’s more likely, however, that most people will be aware of her skills as an actress rather than as a singer. From a rake of movie roles (including A Further Gesture, Miss Julie, The General, Spin The Bottle, Albert Nobbs, and the forthcoming Neil Jordan movie, Byzantium) to a long list of television work (including Queer As Folk, No Tears, Thursday the 12th, Father Ted, The Tudors, Dexter, Downton Abbey, Titanic), Doyle Kennedy has slowly but surely infiltrated her way into households across Ireland, the UK and the US. Her rise to an understated kind of fame (her favourite level – “I’d find OTT fame unpleasant and uncomfortable,” she has said in the past. “Some people know me, some don’t.”) began when she left Trinity College Dublin more than 25 years ago. Then, she recalls, she

was “starting to define what I liked. You also learn proper things about friendship and the kinds of people you want to be around and to form bonds with. I must have been in a particularly good year because there are a lot of people who are still close to each other, and we see each other every now and again. “When I went to college I don’t think anyone else from my secondary school went there, so I was pretty much on my own. I would have thought of myself as quite openminded and liberal, but I found I had a natural bigotry, or perhaps a knee-jerk response, to people with very posh accents! It was an inverse snobbery that you tend not to think of as a bias but, of course, it is its own form of prejudice. And that was good to see and recognise within me and to be aware that you shouldn’t judge things like that.” The notion of actively wanting

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IntervIew

to be involved in music started at TCD. It was there that she drifted into being a singer with Hothouse Flowers, but it wasn’t until later that she started writing her own material. “I’m a late bloomer,” she admits. “I spent most of my 20s learning how to be a mother, so that was my primary focus. When I learned a little bit about that, it felt easier to give some time to other pursuits.” She left Hothouse Flowers because she felt she couldn’t properly juggle the lifestyle of a touring/performing musician and a committed parent. A subsequent music outing, The Black Velvet Band (which she co-founded with her husband, Kieran), proved more beneficial to both creative and domestic duties, but in the early 1990s, Doyle Kennedy made her movie debut in the aforementioned The Commitments, the Alan Parkerdirected adaptation of Roddy Doyle’s book. “It was exactly like it seemed,” she remembers of her first film experience. “It was great fun and I made lifelong friends out of it. I don’t

their actions – and something I found incredibly interesting. That kind of human contact is very stimulating and that was when I began to engage seriously with acting.”

Maria Doyle Kennedy in her role as Queen Katherine of Aragon, from The Tudors.

“The biggest thing for me when I’m on stage is that I don’t think about the ego or insecurity at all. In fact, being on stage is probably the safest place I can get to. It’s great, very liberating.” think I’d ever want to go back to it, however, but I have nothing but good thoughts about it.” Acting was never on the “career” agenda, yet slowly but surely she drifted into it. “About two years after The Commitments, a lot of the same film crew were making In the Name of the Father, so I went down just to say hello to them and have a bit of lunch with some of them, and I ended up staying for hours. I realised I had enjoyed the acting vibe, the ‘being on set’ process, but I hadn’t really thought about it in the intervening time. Being in the middle of something such as filmmaking was a truly collaborative process – the actors’ motivations, 32 |

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And so, following a series of acting classes, the apprenticeship began, with Doyle Kennedy’s passion for music sublimated by awareness that there was another form of creative expression she could engage with – and get paid for. “I didn’t have any training and so I learnt on the job, definitely. The acting classes were just to see if I could do other things with my life. I found that I liked it, though.” The work started as a trickle of bit parts and character studies, gradually increasing to a steady stream of roles in both film and television that continues to this day. “I had the great fortune to work with great people,” she readily remarks, “and with that

you watch them, learn from them.” Curiously, she has said no to a lot of film and television work offered to her. Why? “Well, the priorities are kids first, then music and then acting. I’d only consider acting if I had downtime from the music, and of course things have to fit in around the children. It doesn’t suit me to be away from them very much and it doesn’t suit them either. I suppose there are a few things I’ve been asked to do that I would have liked, but then there is the work you’re offered that I didn’t think was any good.” The hard graft instinct comes from her parents, she says. “They worked very hard because they had to, and so do Kieran and I, because we have four kids.” With all the work she does between music and movies (as well as tending to her brood, one of whom has Down’s syndrome), the difficulty of being a parent as well as an earner revolves around blending time-management skills and business acumen with being a mother hen and parental therapist. “It’s difficult to try and get it to stick together – anyone who is a parent and who works knows that, so it’s not peculiar to what I, personally, experience. Once you have a child you just start feeling guilty and that never stops! Sometimes you feel you’re just sticking everything

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IntervIew

Make-up by Leonard daLy; lEonarDDaly.com

together with Sellotape, and that you’re getting nothing right. But, you know, I think my kids are amazing, unafraid and open-minded.” Doyle Kennedy is an openminded person herself. While she tends to shy away from answering any questions she feels infringe on her privacy, she is honest enough to admit to being a person and a performer of extremes. “Performers seem to have massive contrary characteristics,” she says. “They can show off, yet also be deeply insecure. Complete extremes, so, and yes, each of those pertain to myself, definitely. Isn’t it mad that people are made up of such contradictions? The biggest thing for me, however, when I’m on stage is that I don’t think about the ego or insecurity at all. In fact, being on stage is probably the safest place I can get to. It’s great, very liberating. No worries … I’m just there in the zone.” The acting is all well and good, you sense, but music is where Doyle Kennedy’s heart and soul lie. “I wouldn’t spend a day without singing, even just to myself,” she reveals, “and I’m always percolating a bit of a song in my head.” Her forthcoming album, Sing, is yet another example of where percolation, passion and

instinct coalesce in a collection of quite gorgeous songs (across which she collaborates with the likes of John Prine, Paul Brady and Damien Rice). “When you’re making an album you become so consumed by it – it’s a bit of a mountain you have to climb and you’re continuously asking yourself is this right, is that right, are you happy with it, and so on. Yet when it’s done and you’re proud of it, you have to go and tell people about it.” She’ll be doing that by touring Ireland throughout the summer, thinking of being on stage, in the zone, and living in the here and now. “You have to live, don’t you?” she says. “The fundamental things that are necessary and constant are little more than food and shelter. Thinking about those keeps you in the moment.” Sing, by Maria Doyle Kennedy, will be released on Mermaid Records on August 31. She is touring Ireland in August and will perform at Dublin’s Vicar Street venue on September 29. Maria Doyle Kennedy can be seen in Neil Jordan’s new film, Byzantium, which will be released early in 2013. For further information on tour dates and related news, visit mariadk.com

MARIA DOYLE KENNEDY’S FAVOURITE … … CItY “I really like New York. Everybody says it’s not the same as it was in the 1980s but I still think it’s like a shot in the arm when you go there. Budapest is beautiful and really interesting in a crumbling, faded grandeur kind of a way. There’s a lot of Art Deco there, too, which I really love. And Dublin, too, I really like, it goes without saying … … DUBLIn CItY AttrACtIOnS “Oh, it’s the people, isn’t it? But that’s possibly because of the fact that I’m from the city. I think the arts scene – notably in theatre and visual arts – has always been very stimulating. People have so much energy in that area, and there’s still a will to engage and surprise.” … FAvOUrIte vISUAL Art eXHIBItIOn The photography exhibition, Dublin and Other Portraits, by Evelyn Hofer at the

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“Girl with a bicycle, Dublin, 1966” by Evelyn Hofer at the Gallery of Photography

Gallery of Photography (Meeting House Square, Temple Bar, Dublin), is amazing. (galleryofphotography.ie. Until August 31.) … BOOKS “I’m a bit obsessed with City of Bohane by Kevin Barry – it’s such an amazing book. It creates its own world, it’s so visual, very descriptive and so you really just get into it. Another book I’ve liked recently is The Stranger’s Child by Alan Hollinghurst. It’s about a family in England and it goes through the cycle of the family from start to finish. Really superb.” … MUSIC “I’m still addicted to Midlake’s album, The Trials of Van Occupanther. I also love the Fleet Foxes’ album, Helplessness Blues, and I’m currently listening to a Dublin band called Nanu Nanu, which features a really good singer called Laura Sheeran. Everyone should check them out, I reckon.” (nanunanu.bandcamp.com)

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The new

LONDON

rI ish

This band of young Irish people left home to pursue careers as diverse as acting and fashion design, television producing and cooking. Amanda Cochrane meets six ambitious young creatives making it big in London. Photographs by Verity Welstead.

he face of London is changing fast as a new wave of Irish twenty- and thirty-somethings leave Ireland for Britain in the hope of better job prospects and a change of scene. More than a thousand a week, in fact, are crossing the Irish Sea, according to the Irish Central Statistics Office, with most of them heading for the capital. For the most part, this new wave of the Irish diaspora isn’t hanging out in Kilburn or Cricklewood hoping to wield a hoddy, but aiming for more affluent areas such as Clapham in southwest London – stroll into

a local restaurant or bar and you will hear the gentle hum of the Irish accent – or to trendy Shoreditch, Hackney and Dalston. In East London a hub of successful young Irish creatives are making a lot of noise. There’s the fashion photographer Boo George, Frieda Gormley, a former fashion buyer for Topshop who co-founded interiors and fashion brand House of Hackney, and artist/photographer Niall O’Brian. And that’s just a few of them … Irishman Paul Daly, the artist-turneddesigner behind a raft of cool London bars and music events like Zigfrid von Underbelly in Hoxton, Roadtrip in Old Street and the recently

JONATHAN ANDERSON FASHION DESIGNER An asymmetric pink coat, glitter fringing and cut-out lace were just some of the hot looks by the creative genius of Northern Irish designer J.W (or Jonathan William) Anderson, launched in London this June. Jonathan, 27, launched his first womenswear collection four seasons ago and is rapidly becoming an established name in menswear too. His signature androgynous look plays with proportion and form to give everyday clothes an avantgarde twist. Jonathan grew up in a sporting family in Magherafelt, Derry – his father was the Leinster team’s rugby coach and his brother plays for Munster – but he was introduced to the finer points of fabric by his grandfather, who was the head of a textile company, and his grandmother, whose skewed sense of humour and dress sense Jonathan has inherited. He left Northern Ireland and went to drama school in Washington for a couple of years, but quickly lost interest. “It wasn’t ticking enough boxes for me,” he admits. In 2004 he moved to London and applied to the London College of Fashion and at the same time worked as a visual merchandiser for Prada. “For an industry like fashion, ultimately you have to live in the city,” Jonathan says, “but to evolve and get bigger you need to travel. Once you go to different places you see different cultural references.” This September, Anderson launches his first high street collaboration with Topshop. “It gives me the opportunity to reach a much wider audience with my designs,” he says. “It has always been very important to me that my collections are made accessible to anyone interested in fashion and design.” J.W Anderson clothing is available in Belfast in Please Don’t Tell and in London through Liberty, Browns and Harrods, and online at net-a-porter.com.

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opened Rattlesnake in Islington, started his career by designing Rí-Rá nightclub in Dublin. He moved to London in the 1980s to study at Goldsmiths School of Art and soon made the capital his permanent home. A London veteran, he has seen it all before and fully understands why the next generation is coming to the UK. “London is unbelievably cosmopolitan and dynamic,” he says. “It never stands still. There is something happening all the time.” We may have moved on from the low-skilled exodus to the UK of past generations, but the transition of moving to a new city can still be quite daunting, as some young Irish have found. However, these days there is a solid support network for those who need it, especially at the London Irish Centre, often an essential stop-off for many young Irish migrants who have recently moved or are considering a move to London. “One of the most difficult aspects of moving to a new place is establishing a social network,” says Jeff Moore, director of welfare at the centre. “This can be particularly difficult in London. Geography means that you may have a close school friend on the other side of the city but only see them once a year.” Research carried out by the centre reveals that many of the new arrivals are employed in managerial and professional occupations, but have also found great diversity. “Some are doing well in the City and others are living in trendy Shoreditch and working in fields like media and design,” says Jeff. So is Ireland’s loss, London’s gain? Or will the migrants who take the trip across the Irish Sea eventually find their way home with newfound skills and confidence? Paul Daly certainly thinks so. “Now there’s an opportunity for people like me and I’d love to do something in Dublin.” Meanwhile Jeff Moore thinks the idea of a “brain drain”, in relation to Irish migration, doesn’t take in the larger picture. “Irish migrants are coming to London to develop skills and seek opportunity, but many are looking for creative and innovative ways to make lasting economic and social ties between the two countries.”

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NIAMH SHIELDS, FOOD BLOGGER Former scientist Niamh Shields, who lives in Balham, South London, but has lived all over the city, started her food blog (eatlikeagirl. com) in 2007 for fun. She could easily have turned her hand to music writing – she is equally passionate about both – but food won out. “I had been posting some pictures and recipes on Flickr for a while and got some great feedback, which made me think I should start my own food blog,” says Waterfordborn Niamh, 37, who once had a market stall in Covent Garden selling her legendary slow roasted shoulder of pork and traditional Waterford blaas. Success came quickly. One gloomy summer’s day the Guardian recommended one of her blog’s warming soup recipes and things started to rollercoaster. A year later the Times listed Niamh as one of the world’s top 10 food bloggers and in 2011 the Observer Food Monthly awarded her best food blogger. Comfort and Spice, her book of home-cooked recipes, was published by Quadrille last

September and, in May, Lyons Press bought the US rights. With a gig in a new cookery school near Old Street where she runs evening classes – her bacon masterclass is a sell-out every time – and plans for brunch and supper clubs in the Liberty Lounge on Petticoat Lane, plus a new book in the oﬃng, there’s no stopping this dynamic cook. And she may even turn her hand to music writing. “I love going to live gigs and London has so much to oﬀer from the Royal Festival Hall to the gypsy music festival at the Ritzy Cinema in Brixton,” says Niamh, who likes to wind down after a cookery class with cocktails and a quick bite at the Zetter Townhouse in Clerkenwell. “I’m a creature of habit and I always have the same thing: a gimlet, a scotch egg, followed by Merguez sausages and white bean mash. Delicious.” For more details of Niamh’s cookery courses, visit centralstreet.org.

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PAUL REID, ACTOR Gregarious actor Paul Reid, 30, who has appeared on stage in Dublin in Alice in Funderland and Les Liaisons Dangereuses and on screen in Raw and Love is the Drug, will appear at The Donmar Warehouse this summer with Brian Friel’s Philadelphia, Here I Come. It’s a dream come true for the Dublin-born performer, who studied art before turning to acting. “It’s so highly respected,” Paul says seriously. “Whenever I visited London I would walk by the Donmar and think to myself, Someday, someday, so now I have to set myself a new goal.” Paul has been commuting between Dublin and London for the last couple of years. “Every time I came over to London to try it out I would be oﬀered a part back in Dublin, it was ridiculous,” says Paul with a broad grin. “I was in the airport on the way to London when I got a call about Alice in Funderland, but I’m really glad I did it. I fell in love with Dublin all over again.” However, the call of London was too strong and he returned in June to seek his fame and fortune. “My Grandma said to me “never look back”, which is amazing because the same lines are in the play. I’ve no ties, no wife or kids keeping me at home so I may as well go for it.” Living centrally in Waterloo, Paul likes to relax by people watching along the Southbank or sipping a coﬀee in Soho. “It probably sounds a bit cheesy, but I love watching London passing by. The diversity is so entertaining, With his determined outlook, Paul’s future career looks promising. “Whenever I get a gig, I’m always looking for the next one. My agent tells me to chill out and enjoy the job, but I’m always straight onto the next thing. Work breeds work.” Philadelphia, Here I Come, by Brian Friel, 26 July to 22 September, Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham Street, Seven Dials, London, +44 207 845 5822; donmarwarehouse.com

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Zoe Rocha, Television PRoduceR Television producer Zoe Rocha, 29, eldest daughter of fashion designer John Rocha, moved to london seven years ago to pursue a career in film and television. With a degree in english literature and Film studies and some work experience in props for RTe, she fired off 250 cvs and moved to the Big smoke convinced she would find a job. “i arrogantly thought i’ll move to london, they’ll give me a job … and they did!” says Zoe with a laugh. she landed a job with hanWay Films, where she worked with oscar-winning film producer Jeremy Thomas. Today she is head of production for stephen Fry’s sprout Tv and works on a variety of projects, including a new comedy series for sky with chris o’dowd and a series called Planet Games, which is being shot during the olympics.

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Zoe has plans to set up her own production company. she is also co-writing a comedy series set in ireland with a friend, duncan Preston, and is developing a film on fashion. “The idea is that we will look at the industrial side. it’s quite difficult to handle because most people are intimidated by the fashion world.” in her spare time, Zoe, who lives in clerkenwell with partner Matt, a graphic designer and musician, loves to eat out in restaurants such as ciao Bella on lamb’s conduit street. “We found it by accident. Whenever you go there it’s completely packed, but just by word of mouth. it has no website or promotion and they love their locals.” she also loves hanging out by the pool of shoreditch house. “it’s incredibly cool,” she says, “but every time i walk in there i think i should be wearing shades.”

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august 2012

CELESTINE COONEY FASHION STYLIST Fashion stylist Celestine Cooney, 32, never planned to move to London. She met the fashion guru Nicola Formichetti while visiting for the weekend and landed a job. “I was over seeing some friends and he oﬀered me a job and I’ve been here ever since.” Celestine worked with Formichetti for two years before deciding to branch out on her own. “I dropped my portfolio into Dazed & Confused, but I wasn’t aware of the scene or how things worked here,” she admits. Today she is one of the city’s most sought-after fashion stylists working for high-end magazines such as Vogue and hipster designers like her friend Simone Rocha. She is also one of the founding editors of cult fashion magazine Twin. A combination of art and fashion, the bi-annual title features photography by some of the world’s leading photographers including Irishman Boo George, who also shoots for British Vogue. “The idea was to build a brand,” Celestine says. “It’s about a certain kind of girl, who is very down to earth. It’s meant to be something really beautiful and timeless, something you keep.” When she’s not travelling between London and New York, Celestine likes to hook up with friends in her East London local, The Royal Oak, or cook a huge roast at home. “I love living in Hackney,” she says. “It’s a really vibrant area with great restaurants such as a Little Bit of What You Fancy and lots of cool galleries. And I’ve got an incredible group of friends nearby. They’re brilliant. They are like your family when you are away from home.” Twin is on sale in Liberty in the UK as well as Opening Ceremony in New York and Colette in Paris. For stockists, visit twinfactory.co.uk.

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DANNY O’REILLY, SINGER Danny O’Reilly of The Coronas left Dublin for London in March to give his career a kick-start. “It was down to ambition,” says Danny, who set up the band while studying Commerce in UCD. “In Dublin I was in my comfort zone but I wanted to do more and felt that if I came to a new city there was more chance of making things happen.” Since moving to the city, Danny, whose mother is the acclaimed singer Mary Black, has been successfully writing with different people. “The change has definitely been reflected in my writing,” he muses. “In Ireland I was a medium-sized fish while here I’m bottom of the ladder. But that just makes me work harder.” Danny lives in Islington with his girlfriend, the television presenter Laura Whitmore. “The fact that Laura was already living here made a big difference,” he admits, “but it feels right to be living here.” And Danny is hoping that the band, who have just completed a European tour and recently released their album Close to You, will join him soon. “I’m trying to get them to follow me,” he says with a grin, “but right now I’m planting the idea rather than asking them.” When Danny and Laura are not busy working they like to socialise in their local gastro pub, The Lord Stanley, grab a bite to eat in Le Petit Auberge in the Angel or have a drink in Drink Shop Do, a teashop by day that transforms at night into a restaurant and nightclub. “There is so much going on in London,” Danny says. “I’ve barely been to the same place twice.” The Coronas will play Bestival in September, the O2 Dublin in November, and are planning a major tour of the UK in November; thecoronas.net

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AUGUST 2012

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KILKENNY

Bewitched by KILKENNY

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANTHONY WOODS

It may be 700 years since Dame Alice Kyteler was accused of witchcraft but her native city certainly casts a spell on visitors – especially during the Arts Festival in August. Pól Ó Conghaile is charmed by both city and county. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.

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AUGUST 2012

KILKENNY

hat is Kilkenny’s secret? Tourism is in trouble. Economies are collapsing like card houses. The county’s hurling team has won only five of the last six All-Irelands. But still Kilkenny sizzles. Standing on Rose Inn Street, watching visitors stroll past its old-school shopfronts, mosey down medieval laneways, sip drinks beside the River Nore and fan around its stoic Anglo-Norman castle, I’m wondering what kind of sorcery is afoot. Maybe Dame Alice Kyteler has something to do with it. Kyteler was a wealthy innkeeper accused of witchcraft in 1324. Several of her husbands died in mysterious circumstances, and all sorts of claims were made about covens of witches and cavorting with demons. She escaped the city, vanishing to avoid being burned at the stake – although the present-day owner of Kyteler’s Inn believes she still watches over the place. “Is she still in the building? Absolutely,” says Nicky Flynn. “She is very definitely on the premises. When things happen, we always say… ‘It’s Alice!’” Maybe that’s the answer. Maybe the “love-lorn Lady Kyteler”, as WB Yeats described her, is still casting spells. Maybe she’s the reason Kilkenny is packed with punters on weekends, described by Lonely Planet as “unmissable”. Whatever about witchcraft, another reason Kilkenny excites visitors is the fact that it still looks and feels like a medieval city. A medieval city with tight-knit streets, a stunning castle and cathedral, but also a knack for braiding a cool 21stcentury cosmopolitanism into its historic core. One minute, for example, you could be on Patrick Street, picking through rails of vintage clothes on the fashionably-distressed floorboards at Shutterbug. The next, you step into Rothe House, to find a little boy quizzing a costumed guide as she leads a tour group around the 50 |

AUGUST 2012

17th-century merchant’s house. “Did ye have swimming suits back then?” the boy asks. “Oh, the wonders of the future!” the guide replies. The restored Rothe House is not only home to 2,500 artefacts, but a walled garden maintained like the urban original. There’s more time

Previous pages, like a prop from Game of Thrones, Kilkenny Castle sits at the centre of the town. This page, top, the seat of the Butler family for 600 years, the Castle is packed with history. Above, vintage clothes at Shutterbug, and, right, Kyteler’s Inn, once home to Dame Alice.

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10—16 September 2012

The heart & soul of great Irish food Follow all the festivities at: Facebook.com/waterfordharvest Twitter.com/waterfordharvest WaterfordHarvestFestival.ie

EAT AT … The room may feel formal, with its white linen and dark-wood tones, but Maria Raftery’s cooking at Zuni (26 Patrick Street, 056 772 3999; zuni.ie) is as colourful and inventive as it gets in Kilkenny – think Asianstyle pork belly, pan-fried scallops with curried cauliflower gratin, or tiramisu served in a pot with chocolate soil and mint leaves. A three-course early-bird costs €28. Squirreled away inside the visitor centre at Castlecomer Discovery Park, Anna and Evan Stewart’s Jarrow Café (056 444 0707; discoverypark.ie) specialises in home-cooking, with menus offering a range of salad bowls, light meals and sandwiches, and a specials board that could see anything from chicken and spinach lasagne to spicy Lavistown sausages. Yum. Fans of minimalism might give Café Mocha (84 High Street, 056 777 0074) a miss; everyone else should pile on up the stairs. The first floor café is crammed with every class of chocolate, and a cluttered, yourmum-would-love-this feel stays just on the ride side of quirky. How to choose? Start with dessert and work backwards. It’s good for coeliacs, too. If you’re hunting for a take-home gift, pop into Bridie’s Bar and General Store (69 John Street, 056 776 5133) or push on past the tempting cakes and breads into the bar for something liquid and reviving. For a tasty lunch, check out the Kilkenny Design Centre Restaurant (Castle Yard, 056 772 2118) where everything is home-cooked (it’s also the best place to browse the thriving arts and crafts produced in the county).

Above, snuﬀ? Or a pint of stout anyone? At Bridie’s on John Street, you’ll ﬁnd food, drink and plenty of good cheer, while the muchloved Kilkenny Design Café, left, now opens for dinners too.

in the inner sanctum, surrounded travel en route from Smithwick’s by stone walls and a car boot sale’s brewery to the Round Tower at worth of artefacts and bric-aSt Canice’s Cathedral (one of only two in Ireland that visitors are brac. Historical customers at The Hole in the Wall have included permitted to climb), or from the Black Abbey to cutting-edge Irish Henry Grattan and the Duke of Wellington, and they keep on cooking at Garrett Byrne’s coming. Conway has Campagne or Maria hosted everything Raftery’s Zuni. LOVELY from dawn Kilkenny, like its HURLING choruses to evergreen hurling Kilkenny’s famous hurling performances team, conjures team, the “Cats”, is one of the by Liam Ó up special Maonlaí and moments at most winning sides the game has John Spillane every twist and ever seen. As of 2011, the team at his tavern, turn. had won the All-Ireland hurling and he’s set to My own championship no less than 33 turn it into a favourite is times ... ﬁerce impressive! Salon des Beaux hunting for The kilkennygaa.ie Arts during this Hole in the Wall. month’s Kilkenny After half an hour Arts Festival. The salon is wandering the streets, I one of more than 100 events at the spot its sandwich board down a laneway off High Street. At the end festival (August 10-19; kilkennyarts. ie), ranging from Anthony Cronin is a Tudor tavern, with two words in conversation with fellow writer scrawled on a post-it note stuck to the door: “Knock Hard”. Colm Toibín, to a hypnotic Following the instructions, I performance by Richie Egan and walk into a very unusual wine bar. his folktronica band Jape, this year’s Its owner, Michael Conway, sits Choice Music Prize winners, or

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ANTHONY WOODS

KILKENNY

Mount Juliet

SLEEP AT ... If you’re looking for a base bang in the middle of town, look no further than Kilkenny Ormonde (Ormonde Street, 056 775 0200; kilkennyormonde. com) a well-resourced four-star hotel. Spacious rooms, a 21m pool and friendly staﬀ are all the more remarkable given its location, barely a stone’s throw from Kilkenny Castle. Midweek B&B starts from around €69 per room. Kilkenny’s most luxurious hotel, Mount Juliet (Thomastown, 056 777 3000; mountjuliet.ie) was originally built in 1760 by the Earl of Carrick for his wife, Juliana. Today, rooms at the Georgian mansion are supplemented by newly restored estate lodges, and activities range from the Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course to an equestrian centre with Olympic-size dressage arena. Two nights B&B with one dinner from €174pp. A farmhouse restored by fashion designer Pat McCarthy, The Inn at Ballilogue Clochán (The Rower; 051 423 857; ballilogueclochan.com), near Inistioge, oﬀers a country retreat with homemade breakfasts, bare-stone walls, modish interiors and a Saturday night supper club thrown into the bargain. Stay on a B&B basis, or get a group together and book out the entire property. From €55pp.

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Top, the pretty stone-arched bridge at nearby Inistioge. Above, left, Kilkenny Design Centre is the place for Irish-made arts and crafts, and right, service with a smile from Jenni Lawlor at the café.

catch jazz clarinettist Ivo Papasov and his Bulgarian Wedding Band at the Set Theatre. “You’ll see things in Kilkenny that you won’t see anywhere else,” says Rosemary Collier, artistic director of the festival. She describes the programme as a perfect fit for the city, a comingtogether of specialist curators, inquiring events and audiences “who want to discover things”. It also makes creative use of the city’s intimate medieval venues. “Kilkenny is one of the few

medieval places in Ireland that has remained largely intact, and the festival has a long history of unveiling the city through programming that lets you experience those places in a very organic way,” Collier says. “We don’t build Spiegel tents and fill them for ten nights in a row with a thousand people. We use the fabric of the city.” At the centre of that fabric, of course – leaning over the River Nore like a prop from Game of Thrones – is Kilkenny Castle.

KILKENNY Richie Egan of Jape, just one of the unmissable acts at this year’s Kilkenny Arts Festival. Top, colourful shop fronts along the River Nore.

Presented to the city by the Marquess of Ormonde in 1967, the Anglo-Norman pile was the seat of the Butler family for 600 years, and a tour swans through its library, gallery, drawing rooms and bedrooms, with period detail ranging from a massive Carrara marble fireplace to meticulously hand-painted Chinese wallpaper. In these days of Downton Abbey, downstairs is just as intriguing a proposition – I particularly liked the subterranean kitchen, with its pots and pans and 35 calling bells, including one from “His Lordship’s Bed-sitting bathroom”. Now that’s living. If a visit to the castle puts the historical hook in you, it’s also possible to follow the brand new Butler Trail (discoverireland.ie/ thebutlertrail) to Ormonde Castle in Carrick-on-Suir, the

FIVE KILKENNY GEMS …

BEST FOR … SPORTS FANS Many would pay a small fortune for the secret to Kilkenny’s hurling prowess, but a new tour – The Kilkenny Way – promises an insight for just €20pp. Kicking oﬀ with a video on the history of the world’s fastest ﬁeld game, the two-hour tour continues to Nowlan Park, where you can learn the basic skills of hurling, before tucking into a main course meal. (thekilkennyway.com) BEST FOR … FAMILIES There’s a little bit of everything at Castlecomer Discovery Park, an 80-acre enclave on Kilkenny’s former Wandesforde estate. Fish the lakes, walk the woodland trails, hit the playground, learn about the geological and mining

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history of the area at the Footsteps in Coal exhibition, grab a picnic or shop at the craft courtyard. Sorted. (discoverypark.ie) BEST FOR … SNAKE- CHARMERS Kilkenny is the last place you’d expect to come face to face with a Mexican boa constrictor or monitor lizard. But that’s exactly what you’ll ﬁnd (along with 50 other reptiles) at the Reptile Village in Gowran, a tiny zoo dedicated to educating visitors with its walk-through enclosures and handling zone. Prepare to get hands-on. (reptilevillage.net) BEST FOR … GREEN FINGERS When Nicholas and Susan Mosse moved into an old hunting lodge in Kilfane Glen in 1985, they had no idea a

manmade waterfall lay on their property. Hurricane Charlie revealed not only the falls, but the fact that they were the centrepiece of a rustic retreat created 200 years ago at Kilfane House. They’ve been restoring the romantic gardens ever since. (kilfane.com) BEST FOR … A STORY TO TAKE HOME You may have heard of Jerpoint Abbey, but what about the lost town of Newtown Jerpoint? Set on the lands of Joe and Maeve O’Connell’s Belmore House, the reclusive ruins include a grave said to belong to St Nicholas of Myra. After exploring them, you can relax in Maeve’s tearooms, or watch Joe use a sheepdog to herd his geese. Brilliant. (jerpointpark.com)

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FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS

SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE ON TOUR Four centuries after the original Globe Theatre burned to the ground, who would have imagined it would one day pitch up in Kilkenny? This is the new Shakespeare Globe’s ﬁrst visit to Ireland, with As You Like It performed by a group of travelling players in the Castle Yard at Kilkenny Design. August 10-19; €25/€22; family tickets for €60. A CONVERSATION WITH MIKE SCOTT As singer, songwriter and founding member of The Waterboys, Mike Scott is one of the highest-proﬁle musicians based in Ireland. He’ll be talking about his new memoir, Adventures of a Waterboy, with author Peter Murphy at the Ormonde … and playing a few tunes. August 15; tickets from €12. LE CONCERT SPIRITUEL Devoted to reviving the works of the great French composers, Hervé Niquet’s Le Concert Spirituel is one of the world’s leading Baroque music ensembles. Ten female solo singers and their orchestra will bring the golden age of French sacred music to life in St Canice’s Cathedral. August 16; tickets from €26. Tickets at 056 775 2175 or kilkennyarts.ie.

Main Guard in Clonmel and the exquisite Cahir Castle. Or you could simply stay put and enjoy the surrounding gardens – there’s a brilliant kids’ playground hidden in the woods. In fact, Kilkenny city makes a great base for exploring the surrounding county. There’s a lovely necklace of towns and villages threaded along the River Nore, and whether you end up following your nose or a structured trail, you should find a grand day out. The options are endless: drop into Nicholas Mosse’s pottery studio in the old flour mill at Bennettsbridge; pick your way through the cafes of

Thomastown; check out Duiske Abbey at Graiguenamanagh; or stop to admire the old stonearched bridge at Inistioge, where Maeve Binchy’s Circle of Friends was filmed with a freshfaced Minnie Driver and Chris O’Donnell. Wise to the nuggets scattered about the county, the non-profit group Trail Kilkenny has, since its foundation in 2007, been tying them together into themed trails. If you fancy getting on your bike, one of the best is the East Kilkenny Cycling Route, a 65km spin from Bennettsbridge through Graiguenamanagh, Inistioge and Thomastown. You can download

Opposite, handmade glass baubles by Róisín de Búitléar; inside St Canice’s Cathedral; Kilkenny’s hurling heritage abounds. This page, clockwise from top, Kilkenny Castle grounds; George Ralph of D&R Antiques and some of his vintage goodies. Right, art installation by artist Aoife Barrett.

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KILKENNY

ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS JUDGE/CHRISJUDGE.COM

TRAIL KILKENNY

the GPS track from the website (trailkilkenny.ie) and pedal off into the sunset from there. Exploring the county myself, I find another Kilkenny moment at Kilfane Church in Thomastown. It is barely 4pm, yet the moon hangs like a coin in a deep blue sky, and I walk through a woodland path strewn with daffodils to find the ruin. Inside stands a remarkable effigy of a Norman knight, carved from a single slab of limestone. He has impossibly long arms, armadillolike armour and a haunted expression on his time-worn face. He is also strangely tall. This is the Long Man of Kilfane – whose

shield crest is thought to identify him as Thomas de Cantwell, Lord of Kilfane. The knight, known as Cantwell Fada (literally, “long Cantwell”) for his exceptional height, has watched centuries come and go. When the church served as a school in the 1800s, one story says misbehaving pupils were forced to kiss his lips. Even more curious was Cantwell Fada’s fate. Legend has it that the crusader was killed by his wife, who stabbed him in the heart with a bodkin from her hair. She took the action after he attempted to hand her over to a bishop for the crime of … associating with Dame Alice Kyteler.

Below, right, the fabled Cantwell Fada or Long Man of Kilfane Church – a Norman knight, carved from limestone.

tion quaint village of Inistioge is a fantastic loca Woodstock Gardens & Arboretum in the g embrace of nature. Best known for its for an afternoon well spent in the soothin e to a magnificent walled garden, a Monkey Puzzle Walk, Woodstock is also hom ng café. For further fascinating 19th-century ruin and a charmi . details and opening times, visit woodstock.ie 60 |

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With its wealth of looped walks, craft shops and cyclistfriendly country roads, Kilkenny has no shortage of natural trails for the visitor to follow. Smartly, however, Trail Kilkenny has gathered them all together in one place – the very enticing trailkilkenny.ie. Take the food trail, which pinballs from country farms to cosmopolitan city restaurants. Download the map, and you could be winging your way from Jackie Hoyne’s Blackberry Café in Thomastown to the auctioneers at Kilkenny Mart, or breads fresh from the oven at Keogh’s Model Bakery in Callan. It’s the match of any foodie frolic in Cumbria or the Cotswolds. That’s just the beginning. What about walking a stretch of the River Nore between Inistioge and Thomastown, cycling the 83km North Kilkenny route, or following the Made in Kilkenny crafts trail from Rosemarie Durr’s pottery shop at Castlecomer to the craftsmen at Jerpoint Glass? The walking, cycling and leisure trails are also available as iPhone or Android apps. For more information about Kilkenny sights and events, see discoverireland.ie.

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orlando

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august 2012

Swing Prayer a

an d a

Golfers visiting Orlando are spoiled for choice, with more than 180 courses in the area and top-class tuition on hand. High handicapper David Robbins tees off, more in hope than expectation, and comes away with a new swing. Photographs by Matt Marriott.

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ORLANDO

he first tee of any golf course is a place of hope. This will be the round of your dreams, the time when it will all come right, the day when your slice and your hook will cancel each other out and you will hit, crisp, clean shots that will soar long and straight. On the first tee at Grand Cypress Resort in Orlando, hope did not survive long. I could blame many factors – jet lag, the set of rental clubs and unfamiliarity with the local grass species. In the end, it came down to pure lack of talent. I knew I was up against it when I met my playing partner, Joe Angelino, a former pro and director of golf at Grand Cypress. He is as amiable a guy as you could meet (and I certainly tested his patience). After a few holes, I called him the Smiling Assassin. Joe hits it long, with plenty of draw. His drives were breathtakingly good but his approaches were even better. Time and again, he was putting from about four feet for a birdie. Grand Cypress offers three separate nines, plus an 18-hole track that is a homage to the Old Course at St Andrews, complete with a replica Road Hole, Swilken Burn and Hell Bunker. Each course has a slightly different feel and atmosphere; they blend together to provide a very interesting mix-’n’-match few days’ play. The fifth hole on the East nine features an island green, and is very like the famous 17th at TPC Sawgrass (a two-and-a-half-hour drive away). Joe hit his trademark draw. “I choked down on a nine-iron,” he said. I hit a seven as well as I could. We both ended up about 10 feet away, and both two-putted for par.

We played the North and East nines, and took a buggy ride around the New Course (the St Andrews lookalike). Joe shot three over par for the 18 we played – and he hadn’t touched a club for two months. I shot 102 and didn’t want to touch one for another two months. Grand Cypress, designed by Jack Nicklaus back in the 1980s, is one of the senior courses in the area (Greg Norman used to be their tour pro) and has just been bought by new owners who are investing in refurbishing the villas and reshaping some of the holes. It also has one of the top

Top, Dave Robbins and Grand Cypress director of golf, Joe Angelino, get started on their round; above, Joe watches an approach shot on his way to a 75.

POST GOLF GOODIES Tired after your round? Most golf resorts offer top-notch spas as well, with foot and back treatments geared towards the exhausted golfer. Bay Hill, Grand Cypress and Rosen Shingle Creek all have luxury spas; expect to pay about $90 for an hour’s treatment. 64 |

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STATE OF THE MARKET Golf in the US has been hit by the global economic downturn, just like everywhere else. Green fees have been cut, there are good-value deals on offer and previously ultra-exclusive courses are now open to the public. Courses that cost $200 a round a couple of years ago are now charging about $60, depending on time of year and, sometimes, on time of day. “Our fees are back to what they were pre-2000,” says Drew Toth, director of sales and marketing at Grand Cypress. “Access has been opened up, and that’s happened all over the area.” Marquee courses such as golf academies in the country. If Grand Cypress and Bay Hill there was one man who could put get around 30 per cent of their me back together after that hiding business from overseas, with from Joe, it would be Fred Griffi Griffin, n, Brazil and Argentina figuring the academy’s director and swing strongly. “Brazil just became doctor to half the pros on tour. the number one market for “I’m a physical and visitors to Orlando,” says Drew. psychological wreck,” I told “They just overtook the UK.” Fred. He just smiled. This man The US Commerce Department has taught everyone, from estimates 1.5 million Brazilians high handicappers like will visit the US in 2012 – and me to Jack Nicklaus, SHOP ’TIL almost all of them will head Seve Ballesteros, YOU DROP for Florida. Greg Norman and There’s a lot more to There are some 180 Bernhard Langer. golf courses in the He looked at Orlando than golf, of course – Orlando area, making my swing and, there’s shopping too. Premium it a very competitive I believe, briefly Outlet Mall on Vineland Avenue market. Overseas considered early (premiumoutlets.com) is one of the golfers tend to stay at retirement. most popular. It has most brand a golf resort – typically Fred’s secret names, free parking and is a property with two weapon is a computer close to many of the top or more courses, villa programme that golf courses. accommodation and a hotel. maps the perfect pro But staying at a non-golf hotel swing onto yours. The and booking three or four pro appeared as a stick man rounds of golf separately is superimposed over video of my becoming more popular, says swipes at the ball. His equipment Dave Scott, director of golf at can tell my club-head speed, the Rosen Shingle Creek. spin of the ball as it leaves my club, “You see a lot of guys stay at the height of the ball flight and the Rosen Leisure Hotels and everything except my inside leg use that as a base. If it’s a bunch measurement. Fred told me to lean of guys, you know, they don’t back a little, to narrow my stance spend much time in the room,” and then to begin my downswing he points out. before I finished my backswing.

I hit a few – and the professional stick man and I became more

This page, Grand Cypress, where the courses – and the frills – are such you might never want to leave.

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5 courses to play in the orlando area Some of the best golf courses, such as isleworth (where Tiger Woods had his famous SUV incident) and lake nona, are private members’ clubs and open only to stay-and-play guests. But the five covered here represent a good cross-section of what the area has to offer. There are three championship-type courses and two resort courses, and are presented in descending order of difficulty.

Bay hill One of the oldest clubs in the area, it is a private members’ club owned by golfing legend Arnold Palmer. You can play only if you stay at the club, thus technically becoming a temporary member. It’s home to the annual Bay Hill Invitational, a PGA tour event in May, which was won this year by Tiger Woods – his first tour win since 2009. Bay Hill nestles in an upmarket suburb, with expensive villas lining the holes. It’s flat but there’s plenty of water. The parthree 17th is particularly dreaded by the tour pros. The lodges, restaurant and bar have a nice, clubby feel. There is a gym and spa and there’s plenty of shopping and dining nearby. “Mister Palmer”, as everyone calls him, plays every day from November to April, and sometimes tees off in a high-stakes shoot-out that takes place at noon every Friday and Saturday. A one-night stay plus golf, costs $226 with the club’s Anniversary Encore Package. You can add a second person for $111 plus tax. Nongolfers can have a massage at the club’s spa instead of golf. (+1 407 876 2429; bayhill.com)

Above, the lodges at Arnold Palmer’s Bay Hill Resort; below, the famous par 3 17th at Bay Hill.

aligned. The ball-tracking machine stopped laughing. I even began to draw the ball like Joe. Perhaps I was ready to tackle Bay Hill, Arnold Palmer’s famous track and home to the Bay Hill Invitational every May. Tiger Woods has won this event seven times, and he recently deconstructed his swing, just like me. The omens, I felt, were good. Bay Hill is nestled in a residential area, and the holes are lined with villas and holiday homes. Many of the owners have enclosed their pool areas with mesh screen walls and roofs. “To keep out the leaves and bugs,” explained my playing partner. Or my drives, I thought. The course is prepared to perfection for the Invitational, but now, a month later, the grass on the course was “in transition”

(that’s when the rye grass dies back, and the Bermuda grass comes through to replace it). The process can leave bare patches at this time of year and several of Bay Hill’s greens were not at their best. As on any Florida course, useful weBsites golforlando.com a central booking and reservation site, with good links orlandogolfblogger.com golf course and equipment reviews by golf addict Dave orlandogolf.com run by the Golf Channel, this is a good place to look for green fee deals and accommodation visitorlando/things-to-do/golf a great resource for golfers, with club listings, distances to attractions and a golfer’s guide

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ORLANDO

5 COURSES TO PLAY IN THE ORLANDO AREA CONT’D...

GRAND CYPRESS Right next to Disney, but you’d never know it. It is a world of its own, with a Hyatt Regency hotel, three different nine-hole layouts, an 18-hole Scottishstyle track, below, and some 70-odd villas. The courses are such that golfers may never want to leave. The club has hosted several PGA events and is home to a cadre of upand-coming Asian women golfers who practise at Fred Griffin’s academy. There are plans for a milliondollar, pro-celebrity-am shoot-out competition to be televised from November 26. Off season, lodges are from $135 per night, with golf at about $79 per round. Stay-and-play packages cost $279 per night. In August, a twonight stay in a two-bed villa costs $297.85, including golf. (+1 407 239 4700; grandcypress.com)

3 the wildlife must be taken into account. At Bay Hill, a family of Florida cranes wandered about. They’re a protected species, so hitting one with your drive is not advisable. Elsewhere, we saw a baby alligator, ospreys, cormorants and an eagle. Be warned: things may move during your backswing. Top, a wild turkey explores the fairway Bay Hill is a beautiful but at Disney’s Palm course. Above, a baby alligator breaks the surface at the Palm testing course, with lots course; right, the Scottish-style New WORLD of sand and water. Course at Grand Cypress. There are carries to OF WILDLIFE all the greens. I Golfers in Florida don’t just shot 93, which fairytale round. There was have to contend with tough I regarded as nothing else for it: it had to courses – there’s a lot of wildlife too. a testament to be Disney. The Land of the Families of Florida sandhill cranes – Fred Griffin’s Mouse has a range of courses the ones with the red patch on the ability. My and there is hot debate over forehead – are apt to walk across partner was a which is the best. Osprey tees and fairways at any moment. 75-year-old with Ridge, which is about to They’re a protected species, become part of a new Four two replacement Seasons complex, is probably hips; he shot 85. so you have to let them the most scenic, but the Palm and It was time to through. Magnolia courses are very highly go in search of that 68 |

AUGUST 2012

ORANGE COUNTY NATIONAL Voted one of the best public golf courses in the US, it has three fine courses (Crooked Cat, Tooth and Panther Lake) and the reputation for providing a no-frills, hard-core golfing experience. The complex hosts the PGA tour qualifiers and won four-and-a-half stars in Golf Digest’s Best Places to Stay and Play awards. The course is in a remote part of Orange County, about 20 minutes drive from Downtown Disney. The clubhouse closes early, so evening activities are a drive away. A round on the Panther Lake course costs about $50, there are stay-and-play packages available (+1 407 656 2626; ocngolf.com)

’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned O’Neill’s. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has ﬂourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. O’Neill’s is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ... ●

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;This man has TaughT everyone, from high handicappers like me To Jack nicklaus, seve BallesTeros, greg norman and Bernhard langer. he looked aT my swing and, i Believe, Briefly considered early reTiremenTâ&#x20AC;?

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ORLANDO

5 COURSES TO PLAY IN THE ORLANDO AREA CONT’D...

DISNEY’S PALM Part of this course runs alongside a highway and another part is alongside a high-rise hotel, but when you get deeper into the course you could be anywhere. It’s a parkland-style course, with holes ﬂanked by dense pines and oaks. The fairways are lush but the greens looked like they were being treated when we played. They still played true but looked a little woebegone. If you’re staying at a Disney resort, there are discounts for golfers, but non residents will pay $104 per round before 10am, $59 from 10am to 2.59pm, and $49 from 3pm until the course closes. (+1 407 454 5000; disneyworld.disney.go.com/golf/

ROSEN SHINGLE CREEK Harris Rosen started the Rosen chain of resorts when he was ﬁred by Disney. He has gone some way towards beating them at their own game. Rosen Shingle Creek, below, is a vast, convention-style hotel but manages to maintain a distinct personality. The rooms are ﬁve-star standard, the spa is good and the golf course is a gem. Circling the hotel and taking in the original creek that gives the resort its name, it is the perfect holiday course: challenging but not so tough that you’ll vow never to play again. Stay-and-play packages start from $199 per room per night for two. Non residents will pay between $79 and $99 a round, with twilight rates from $44 to $55. (+1 407 996 9933; shinglecreekgolf.com)

Above, bamboos frame the view at Rosen Shingle Creek. Right, water is a feature of Shingle Creek course; left, the facade of the convention-style hotel.

rated. With Fred’s new swing and a little sprinkling of fairy dust from Tinkerbelle and friends, I felt a new course record coming on. Unfortunately, the weather had other ideas. After 13 holes of pretty good golf, we were called ashore due to a tropical storm and a lightning warning. My last chance at golfing redemption was at Rosen Shingle Creek, a beautifully kept course that meanders around a giant hotel and resort. Shingle Creek is a superior holiday course – the fairways are generous but the greens are quick and hard to read. It is not going to kill you but it’s not going to lie down before you either. Th This is time, I was paired up with low-handicapper Jason Johns, the club’s sales manager. He had a seven on the opening hole, which encouraged me no end. However, that was to be the

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only blemish on his card. I managed to shoot 85, which would have given me 40 stableford points off my handicap. I left Orlando soon after that round at Shingle Creek. I took with me a new swing, a renewed enthusiasm for the game, some fancy ball markers and a bagful of memories.

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Málaga uncovered

It may be a gateway to the Costa del Sol but Málaga is the real Spain and ideal for a city break. Oda O’Carroll is won over by its heritage and culture, not to mention the food and flamenco. Photographs by Emily Mott.

MÁLAGA

unning for the taxi to Dublin airport in the early morning, I get a good soaking. It has been raining non-stop and unseasonably cold for three days. It couldn’t be better timing to escape an Irish summer for a couple of days in Málaga with some friends. Just a few hours later and it’s a different different world. It’s a hair-dryer hot Sunday afternoon and we stop for a café con leche, just off Calle Larios, Málaga’s main shopping street. Women dressed in their finery stroll past on a family day out; men sip sherry at the bar over a plate of tostadas,, others sit dipping churros (sugared doughnut sticks) into cups of hot chocolate, a traditional post-siesta pick-me-up. It may be a gateway to the Costa del Sol but this is real Spain. Although I have been visiting Málaga for years – or the airport should I say – like most, I bypassed the city en route to the coast.

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Previous pages, left, riding out from Rancho La Paz, and right, Málaga – a much under-rated city. This page, from top, left, Museo del Vino in the pretty town of Mijas, above, and right, Oda relaxes with a sundowner.

figure on the Málaga didn’t figure agenda, my sense of it was that it was a port town a bit like Marseilles. We expect a lot from city breaks – culture, nightlife, good food, value – and, as I was to discover, Málaga has it all. Founded by the Phoenicians about 3,000 years ago, Málaga is one of the oldest cities in the world and a surprising amount of its Arab, Roman and Christian heritage remains. That’s why it has been called an “open museum” – its compact historic quarter is so rich with sights. About half the size of Dublin, it’s dead easy to get around

on foot and its centre – the streets near the marina on either side of marble-tiled Calle Larios – is where you want to be. I am on the hunt to uncover the real Málaga (with the help of two friends), so we set out to tread its smaller streets and alleys and find the best hidden places. We have heard about a gem, a short drive up the mountains in the pretty white-washed town of Mijas. Stepping out of the glare and 37˚C heat into a dark, cool, beautiful 19th-century building, home to the Museo del Vino (Calle San Sebastián 14, +34 952 486 367; museovinomalaga.org) we

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Málaga’s English Cemetery (Avenida de Pries, +34 952 223 552) has an otherworldly, forgotten quality about it. The brainchild of a 19th-century British Consul, this beautifully shady final resting place with Gothic gatehouse and adjoining botanical garden is perfect for a quiet stroll. After a long day pummelling the pavement sightseeing, reward yourself with a seaweed massage at Málaga’s El Hammam (Calle Tomás de Cózar 13, +34 952 212 327; elhammam. com). A bathhouse once used by local muslims before entering the nearby mosque, this serene candle-lit spa, with its cool marble and North African tiled rooms offers a cool respite from the city streets. They may be the footwear du jour on the catwalk but Spaniards have long favoured comfy summer espadrilles. Like locals, at Calzados Hinojosa (San Juan 20, +34 952 212 735) you’ll find a colour to match every outfit. At weekends, Málagueños love to hang out at the beach with extended family and friends. Chiringuito Pedro (Carretera Almeria, + 34 952 513 725) is a well-kept secret – a typical beachside eatery ideal for no-fuss gambas a la plancha (grilled prawns) washed down with a bottle of San Miguel. Hear wonderful stories about rare glass from the guide/owner at Málaga’s charming glass museum, Museo del Vidrio y Cristal (Antigua Calle Gaona, 20, + 34 952 221 949; museovidrioycristalmalaga. com) housed in a beautiful Málagan home.

4 are treated to a feast of the senses. Francisco, the owner gives us a hearty welcome, some 400-day aged Manchego and a chilled glass of El Lagar. Delicious. “We tell the French this is our Chanel No 5,” he says with a smile. Six courses of authentic Andalucian gastronomy and regional wines later, we make our way down the hill to Rancho La Paz (Torreblanca, E-29640 Fuengirola/Málaga, +34 952 590 264; rancho-la-paz.com), a whitewashed ranch, for a trek. Horses 78 |

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are an intrinsic part of Andalucian culture so, despite our over-full stomachs, we don’t want to miss the opportunity. The horses at La Paz are reared in corrals on the mountainside and are incredibly well behaved – and luckily not half as giddy as we are. We trek Spanish-style in big comfy saddles through the Sierra de las Nieves national park, on sandy tracks flanked by eucalyptus, fig and palm groves, the views over the whole coast bathed in a soft pink light. An unforgettable experience.

Clockwise from top, Rancho La Paz, where the horses are reared in mountainside corrals; whitewashed buildings in nearby Mijas; back at the ranch.

For more information on Málaga’s attractions, visit malagaturismo.com, and for information on the outer region, see visitacostadelsol.com.

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EAT AT ... Just below the Alcazaba and the remains of a Roman theatre, sit under a terrace umbrella at El Pimpi (Calle Granada, 62 y Jardines, Alcazabilla, +34 952 228 990; bodegabarelpimpi.com) for some delicious chilled porra, a local variation of gazpacho, or a more-ish tortilla. An old convent turned into a charming bodega, El Pimpi is full of big barrels to store sherry and a wall of photos showing all its famous visitors, including local hero Antonio Banderas.

Back in town we are set for a blast of culture. The Picasso Museum (Palacio de Buenavista San Agustín 8, +34 902 443 377; museopicassomalaga.org) is right in the historic centre of Málaga, in an airy 16th-century palace. I have seen Picasso’s work in Barcelona and Madrid but this is a special collection of previously unseen works donated by his family. Here’s an admission though – I’m not a fan of Cubism and am not planning on becoming a convert now. As we walk from room to room, our guide explains how Picasso’s feelings towards his muses were reflected in the way he painted them and you can see what she is talking about. He mustn’t have liked first wife,

Opened in the 1940s, Lo Güeno (Calle Marín García 9, +34 952 223 048; logueno.es) is a small traditional tapas bar, favoured by locals as much for its lively terrace as its roast suckling pig from Segovia, or Malagueña salad of salt cod, potato and orange. Don’t be put oﬀ by the bright lighting at the upmarket Reserva Del Pastor, below (Calle Sanchez Pastor, +34 952 214 748; lareservadelpastor.com). Local word has it that this is one of the ﬁnest spots for quality tapas and regional wines at reasonable prices.

Olga, much then! Picasso’s sense of humour and warmth are evident in his ceramics, my favourite pieces. “What does an owl say to you?” asks our guide as we approach “Owl on a Chair”. “Night time?’ offers one of my friends tentatively. “No! Wisdom and war,” says the guide. We learn and move on.

Top, charming winding streets in a hilltop village, above, Museo Picasso, a must whether you’re a fan or not.

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Málaga

stay at ...

Fiesta

Málagueños love to party. Join them for the biggest fiesta of the year, the annual nine-day Feria de Málaga, August 13-20, when the whole town takes part in a huge parade of fireworks, music and dance.

Close by we take a lift to the hill-top Moorish Alcazaba fortress (Calle Alcazabilla 2), built in the 11th century to protect the city from marauders. Inside the thick walls and immense iron doors is a labyrinth of pretty courtyards and rooms, where decorative wooden ceilings, colourful geometric tiling and horseshoe arches give away its Arabic origins. There are spectacular 82 |

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views down to the distant bay from here but at one time the sea came right to the gates. In fact, you can see a doorway where unfortunate Christian prisoners were dropped off by ship for a stint of hard labour. It took them 400 years to get their revenge and take over the place. It’s all about Picasso here. We stroll to his birthplace, now the Fundación Picasso (Plaza de la Merced 15, +34 951 926 060; fundacionpicasso.malaga.eu) across

Above, a lift takes you up to the 11th century Moorish fortress of Alcazaba with stunning views down to the faroff bay.

Budget It might be hard to find the charming little Casa de la Mercedes in its narrow laneway in the historic quarter, but the search is worth it. Built by a nearby convent in the mid-1700s, nine quaint rooms are furnished with antique furniture, Moorish-influenced big wooden beds and beautiful ceramics. A bougainvillea-filled courtyard is like an oasis of calm. (Double rooms from €76. Calle Hinestrosa 18, +34 952 060 152; casadelamercedes.com) Mid-range Originally one of Málaga’s oldest inns, parts of the Arab and Roman city walls have been integrated into the slick new contemporary design of the five-star Vincci Hotel, right in the historic centre. With just over 100 rooms, gym and snazzy roof-top pool, this delivers a proper boutique experience. (Double rooms from €100. Pasillo Santa Isabel 7, +34 951 001 020; vinccihoteles.com) splurge The panoramic views over the city and the bay are pretty fine at parador de Málaga gibralfaro, below, the small, four-star Parador on pine-flanked Mount Gibralfaro, high above the city. Rooms are spacious but best in the house is the Picasso room, a loft-like suite on the top floor with private terrace overlooking the bullring, cathedral and bay. (Double rooms from €150. Castillo de Gibralfaro, s/n, +34 952 221 902; paradores.es)

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the pretty, cafélined Plaza de la Merced, stopping to take photos of the stunning purple-flowered jacaranda trees. Upstairs, overlooking the elegant square, you can see more of his beautiful, witty ceramics and some curiosities, such as a waistcoat worn by his father, also a painter; his mother’s wedding linen and some fine jewellery. With its tall windows overlooking the elegant square, the place really gives a sense of his formative environment. We spend the afternoon wandering the narrow maze of alleys that makes up the old town, passing tapas bars and souvenir shops. It feels quite like Venice but without the crowds. By evening we are flagging so take the lift to the 15th floor of the AC Málaga Palacio Hotel (Cortina del Muelle 84 |

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1, +34 952 215 185; marriott.com marriott.com), not knowing quite what to expect. We are in for a surprise. Stepping out onto the dazzling, cool, roof-top terrace with sunlight twinkling from the swimming pool, we might as well be in Miami. A few sharp-suited businessmen are having cocktails. The views from the cathedral up to the Gibralfaro Castle, over the bay and right across the city, are breathtaking. We bag some sun loungers, order three flutes of chilled cava (at only €3 a pop) and take it all in. Olé. Some say flamenco arrived with the gypsies in the Middle Ages. It was practised on the streets and in houses until the Spanish Civil War and Second World War nearly killed the tradition. From the 1950s onwards, it began to resurface in Málaga’s tablao

Above, a cocktail at sunset on the roof bar of the AC Málaga Palacio Hotel is the best way to end a day’s sightseeing. Left, the drama of ﬂamenco at Vino Mio.

SHOP AT ... My favourite Spanish jewellery shop is Uno de 50 (Avenue de Andalucia 4-6, +34 952 287 629; unode50.com), where each gorgeous piece, made of chunky silver and gemstones and handcrafted and one of a limited edition of 50. Purveyor of funky shoes, Spanish label Camper (Cuarteles 51), on the corner of Plaza de la Constitución, has colourful leather and rubber shoes for all. And the good thing is they cost less on their home turf. If you have girlie gifts to buy, pick up a flouncy flamenco dress, dangly earrings or feathered fan at El Rocio (Calle San Juan 1, +34 952 22 54 95), home to the best fiesta wear.

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MÁLAGA

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design, worth visiting for the serene building and café alone. Enough sightseeing though, we want to know where Málagueños go to hit la playa? We have heard about a “locals’ beach” at Pedregalejo, an old fishing village just 2km east of the centre, so pull up at a strip of nicely down-atheel white-washed cottages among the palm trees, a bit like Cuba. We walk down an alleyway to the seafront where a wide, sandy cove is spread out before us – a couple of teens are playing softball, leather-skinned men cook fish on blocks of wood and a strip of local fish restaurants line a little

clubs and now you can see this exhilarating dance nearly any night of the week. We don’t want to see a sanitised cabaret version though. After a few inquiries we come across a local trio performing at Vino Mio (Calle Álamos 11; restaurantevinomio.com). As we grab a ringside seat in the tiny restaurant, the musicians and dancer are already in full flight. Even if you don’t understand the words, the sentiment and passion of the song are unmistakable. As the dark-haired singer emotes – eyes closed, banging his clenched fist to his heart – there is no doubt this is a love lament. The dancer punctuates the song with a rhythmic tapping of her shoes, hands clapping, flashes of leg

showing through her red skirt, a sensual fiery accompaniment. Flamenco nearly dead? Not any more. Scenes of flamenco are everywhere and have an added resonance for us at the Carmen Thyssen Museum (Plaza Carmen Thyssen, Calle Compañía 10; carmenthyssenmalaga.org) the next morning. The former Miss Spain’s impressive collection of 19th-century Spanish and Andalucian painting includes works by Zurbarán and Romero Torres. Farm hands sitting around a fire, horse-drawn wagons, women dancing and bottles of rum featured heavily back then. It is housed in another 16th-century villa, of beautiful contemporary

Right, just 2km out of town is the locals’ beach, Pedregalejo, an old ﬁshing village with a strip of little restaurants, perfect for lunch.

The Muelle Uno marina, which opened earlier this year, is Málaga’s shiny new strip with more than 60 restaurants, shops, cafés, a palm tree garden and kids’ playground. Locals hit the prom at sunset for post-work food and drinks. 88 |

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promenade. No tourists in sight. Settling at a boardwalk table at Maricuchi (Paseo Maritimo del Pedregal 14, +34 952 290 412), it is just us and retired bullfighter “Nando de Andujar” and his friends celebrating the anniversary of his first fight. The afternoon passes blissfully and we run into the Med for one final dip. Málaga, our new friend. But don’t tell anyone. Hertz car rental Cara would like to thank Hertz for their assistance. For best car rental deals, visit aerlingus.com and click on the Hertz icon. Or call reservations from Ireland, 01 813 3844. Aer Lingus Aer Lingus ﬂies from Dublin, Cork and Belfast to Málaga daily.

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An Insider’s Guide to

BARCELONA A vibrant city with stunning architecture and scenery, Barcelona is a family-friendly destination too. Dubliner Ro Molloy picks out the "must sees" in her adopted home.

 For cocktails and relaxed atmosphere when the sun goes down, visit L’ASCENSOR BAR, Calle Bellafina, or MILK on Calle Gignas, both in the Gothic Quarter. Other local favourites include GIMLET on Calle Santaló, DISSET 17 GRAUS, Calle Antic de St Joan, and MUDANZAS,, on Calle Vidriería, all catering to a young stylish clientele in the El Born district.

 Stroll along Banys Nous in the Gothic Quarter, full of antique and speciality stores. Stop at XURRERIA and enjoy freshly made churros – Catalan fried doughnuts covered in sugar.

 Visit ELS ENCANTS ﬂea market at Plaça de les Glòries on the red metro line. For the best experience, go early to avoid the crowds and the midday heat. Open 8am till 3pm, Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat.

 See the city of Barcelona from above by taking the RED CABLE CAR across the bay from Barceloneta to Montjuic mountain. Be prepared to queue for this short but thrilling journey. (Take bus 50, 55 or 61 to the cable car base station; open 10am-9pm, from €6.80 for adults.)

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BEING THERE

 Visit the beautiful hill of MONTJUIC, which rises imposingly over the port. There you will ﬁnd spectacular views of the city. The JOAN MIRO FOUNDATION, CAIXA FORUM MUSEUM, OLYMPIC STADIUM and the famous PAVELLO by Mies Van Der Rohe are all in this part of the city.

 Rent bikes and cycle along the beautiful seafront, stopping to savour the views and perhaps take a dip in the Mediterranean sea. Go to GREEN BIKE RENTAL, Calle Ataulf 8, for friendly staﬀ and good prices. ((greenbikesbarcelona.com)

 PLACA REIAL near the bottom of La Rambla is grandiose with its classical facades and oﬀers all types of restaurants with sunny outdoor seating. Gaudí’s ﬁrst commissions can be seen here in the wonderful, wrought-iron lamp posts.

 PAPPABUBBLE on Calle Ample is deﬁnitely worth a visit with children. In this colourful artisan sweet store you can watch as they mix, roll and cut out handmade candies. The scents and colours are delightful for all ages.

 For truly beautiful and original handmade glass jewellery, pop into MIMI SCHOLER on the lane Calle San Jacinto, just behind the Santa Caterina market. Meet with Mimi if you wish to have a custom-made piece to bring home. (mimischoler.com)

t of relax in the top floor restauran to out e tim e Tak ... L RIL TH A VIEW TO of de Catalunya, which boasts one ça Pla at re sto nt me art dep les El Corte Ing views of the city. the best (and least known about)

 For football fans, the CAMP NOU stadium and museum is worth a visit. It is good value for money and the tour gets great reviews. You can also have your photo taken with the Champions League trophy! ((fcbarcelona.com) (fcbarcelona.com

Aer Lingus ﬂies from Dublin to Barcelona daily, from Cork, Wed, Fri and Sun, and from Belfast, Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun.

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MORE ABOUT RO Ro Molloy has lived in Barcelona with her husband and young son Eli since they left Dublin three years ago. Having had a wedding dress design business in Ireland, she now runs her bespoke wedding dress business between Dublin and Barcelona, ﬂying home regularly to visit family and meet clients. Living in the old town, she thinks Barcelona is a fantastic city, with amazing amenities, stunning architecture and scenery and, of course, its Mediterranean climate. For more info about Ro visit romolloy.com.

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Dining experiences in Dublin!

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ne of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin city centre this listed building has been recently renovated and contains many unique and interesting architectural features. Doheny and Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians and media personalities, with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the ﬁnest in Irish Food and Drink. Come and enjoy the mightiest of craic in Doheny and Nesbitts – a must for any trip to Dublin.

Traditional Italian trattoria restaurant 26 Lower Ormond Quay, D1 Mayor Square, IFSC, D1 WWW.BARITALIA.IE TEL: +353 1 8741000

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BEING THERE

N ... I S R U O H 48

Bruges

Chocolate lipstick anyone? Or beer served with classical music? Tony Clayton-Lea ﬁnds many delights in a compact and serene city. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

t is often overlooked that the medieval city of Bruges is only about one hour’s train journey from Brussels city centre. Just think – one hour away from the hustle and bustle of Brussels (now there’s a Eurovision song title for you!) is a compact city of less than 120,000. Certainly, the differences between Brussels and Bruges couldn’t be more apparent: the former thrives on the cut and thrust of big city life, the latter is content to sit back serenely and let the world go by. Day tourists love Bruges, of course – but here’s the thing: once the last coach bus leaves, Bruges winds down even more. The result is as intimate a city experience as you’ll ever enjoy.

Basilica of the Holy Blood

A canal boat trip

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DON’T MISS ... Bruges is compact, we’ll admit, but there’s so much to see that you probably won’t pack everything in over a weekend or mid-week break. One of the several one-day must-sees is the Museum of the Basilica of the Holy Blood (Burg 13, holyblood.org), which is a Romanesque church and a Basilica (rebuilt in Gothic revival style in the 19th century). If the exterior is impressive, the interior is breathtaking – all bright gilt and dark wood, with an atmosphere that is both special and sepulchral. Some say religion and alcohol go hand-in-hand, and so perhaps after visiting the Basilica you should immediately check out the Brewery de Halve Maan (Walplein 26, halvemaan.be), which is Bruges’s last working brewery. Enjoy a bit of history and a sip (or two)

of the house brew, Brugse Zot, a wholly refreshing beer made from malt, hops and special yeast. You can’t visit Bruges and walk away without tasting some of the best chocolate you’ve ever had. Enter Chocolate Line (Simon Stevinplein 19, thechocolateline.be), one of the city’s 50 chocolate shops and (in our opinion) quite likely the best. Here, so-called “shock-olatier” Dominique Persoone hand-makes choccies that boast (if that’s really the word) highly singular flavours – tomato and basil, black olive, tequila, bitter ganache with vodka, praline with fried onion, Coca-Cola, and bitter ganache with wasabi. The shop also sells accessories such as chocolate lipstick, which is, perhaps too inevitably, very, very tasty! To make the day even

more perfect, why not see a completely different side of Bruges by boat? You can embark on the small boats at various landing stages along the canal route for a languorous 30-minute journey. Boat trips start at 10am, and finish up from 5.30pm onwards. (€7.60, adults; €3.40, children aged 4-11; free, children under four. bruges.be/tourism)

Left, the medieval city is full of picturesque views, above, the only ﬁve-star in town, Kempinski Hotel Dukes’ Palace – swish, arty and with a knockout restaurant.

SLEEP AT … Let’s be honest – it isn’t very often you can say you once slept in a palace, and so the only ﬁve-star hotel in Bruges, Kempinski Hotel Dukes’ Palace (+32 5044 7888; kempinski.com/ bruges), is something of a no-brainer. It’s also something of a gem of a hotel – very swish, quite arty, with a restaurant, Manuscript, to beat all comers. The only downside? You have to pay for Wi-Fi, which seems a little counter-productive in this day and age. Rooms from €281.

Bruges is so small that everything is in the heart of the city; for a rather more intimate sleeping experience, try Number 11 (+32 5033 0690; number11. be), a boutique guesthouse situated in a virtually silent, traﬃc-free street close to the Groene Rei canal. It’s also a few minutes’ walk from Bruges’s many attractions and restaurants. Free Wi-Fi. Rooms from €155. Another solid option for a good night’s sleep is the Pand Hotel (+32 5034 0666; pandhotel.com), formerly an

EAT AND DRINK AT ... For such a compact city, Bruges certainly has enough great places in which to eat. While the many cafés located at the Markt square are fine for a quick snack or just a sit-down coffee, you’d be advised to seek out eateries located in streets that spread out from the old town centre. One such restaurant is Cafédraal (Zilverstraat 38, +32 5034 0845; cafedraal.be), which is a hip yet downhome bistro/bar that is smartly designed (we loved the quirky speech bubbles on the main wall) and operates from the principles of customer satisfaction and expertly executed dishes. For lunch here we had the Zeebrugge Solettes (sole) fried in farm butter, with crunchy Belgian fries (€27). If you fancy blending in with the locals, make a beeline for Gran Kaffe de Passage (Dweersstraat 26-28, +32 5034 0232; passagebruges.com), which is a very reasonable (meals between €5-€12) local hotspot that fuses boho Art-Deco styling with a cosmopolitan atmosphere.

18th-century carriage house that is now a 26-room boutique offering. This one is something of a minideluxe choice and not without a high level of charm, as it reflects the city’s old-world style throughout with open fires, antiques, panelled walls, wooden floors and art works. The hotel also operates two guesthouses nearby. Free Wi-Fi. Rooms from €160. A restored 14th-century Patrician house and a former brewery, Hotel Azalea (+32 5033 1478;

It offers hearty traditional Belgian fare served with humour and character. For an authentic Bruges experience, then make your way to Cambrinus (Philipstockstraat 19, +32 5033 2328; cambrinus.eu), a stone’s throw from Grote Markt; it’s the kind of bar you’d ideally like to stay in for longer than you know you should, with its selection of more than 400 beers and a history that dates back to 1699. For an altogether more relaxing accompaniment to drinking beer, pop into De Garre (off Breidelstraat, +32 5034 1029), which is located just off the main square, and which blends atmosphere (think Lord of the Rings pub ambience), many, many beers and classical

azaleahotel.be) is located a mere 500 metres from the city’s main square and right beside the charming Speelmansrei canal. The hotel bar has a terrace that overlooks a well-kept garden and the calm, rippling waterway. Free Wi-Fi. Rooms from €125.

Far left, chocoholics delight at Chocolate Line; guiding presence – rooftop statuary; slow travel with a Bruges horse-andcart trip; bistro/ bar Cafédraal.

Aer Lingus ﬂies from Dublin to Brussels daily and from Cork to Brussels, Mon, Wed and Fri. Bruges is less than one hour by train from Brussels.

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InFlight

For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including Dr Seussâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; The Lorax (pictured), turn to page 102.

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WelcomeAboard Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ...

For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoﬀ and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off. DEVICES PERMITTED ✔ AT ANY TIME: Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

DEVICES PERMITTED ● IN FLIGHT BUT NOT DURING TAXI/TAKE-OFF/

INITIAL CLIMB/APPROACH LANDING: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology

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with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Oﬀ” setting selected. DEVICES PROHIBITED ✘ AT ALL TIMES: Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during ﬂight, provided the WLAN option is turned oﬀ and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat Food and bar service

News, music and movies

Seirbhís bia agus beáir

Nuacht, ceol agus scannáin

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

On long haul ﬂights, we oﬀer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamhmheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.

with Aer Lingus. sant flight. Thank you for choosing to fly plea and able fort com a e hav you e hop We h maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus. raib go s agu t aga ach mh nea tait h dac Tá suil againn go mbíonn turas compor

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis. GLÉASANNA A BHFUIL ✔ CEADAITHE I GCÓNAÍ: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.

GLÉASANNA ATÁ ● CEADAITHE I RITH NA HEITILTE, ACH NACH

BHFUIL CEADAITHE LE LINN DON EITLEÁN BHEITH AG GLUAISEACHT AR TALAMH/AG ÉIRÍ DE THALAMH/ AG TABHAIRT FAOIN DREAPADH TOSAIGH/ AG DÍRIÚ AR THUIRLINGT/ AG TUIRLINGT: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe). Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLÉASANNA A BHFUIL ✘ COSC IOMLÁN ORTHU: Gléasanna a tharchuireann

minicíocht raidió d’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha. Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí. Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

SMOKING In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its ﬂights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. TOBAC De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh. Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.

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AerLingusNews AER LINGUS INTRODUCES NEW FLEXIBLE PAYMENT OPTIONS ON AERLINGUS.COM Giving customers greater ﬂexibility when making travel arrangements.

A view of Copenhagen

AER LINGUS LAUNCHES “BUMPER” WINTER SCHEDULE

Aer Lingus will fly to six new destinations this winter with increased frequencies on a number of flights. Brand new routes: Dublin to Verona, and Stockholm, and Cork to Brussels are set to continue right throughout the winter, owing to their continued popularity. Other exciting destinations on offer include Copenhagen, Bordeaux and Venice. Frequencies will be increased on a further eight popular routes such as Berlin, Vienna and Amsterdam. There will also be extra flights to Lanzarote and Tenerife which will be music to the ears of those seeking out a winter sunshine holiday in the Canary Islands. For more information visit aerlingus.com.

Price Lock allows customers book a flight, at the best available price, and hold for a period of 24 hours, for a fee of just €5 per passenger, per one-way flight. The customer then has 24 hours to complete the reservation and confirm their booking. The €5 fee is deducted from the final price. If the booking is not confirmed before the expiry deadline, the booking is cancelled and the fee forfeited. Deposit customers now have the option to pay a 50 per cent deposit when booking flights to Orlando, Florida on aerlingus.com and pay the balance at a later time, up to 120 days before the date of travel.

AER LINGUS REGIONAL’S IRELAND WEST AIRPORT KNOCK-BIRMINGHAM SERVICE TAKES OFF! The West of Ireland’s business and tourism received a welcome boost as Aer Lingus Regional’s first flight from Ireland West Airport Knock to Birmingham took to the skies. Aer Lingus Regional, operated by Aer Arann, will fly once daily from Ireland West Airport Knock to Birmingham, offering both business and leisure travellers direct, convenient and cost effective access to Great Britain’s second largest city. Aer Lingus Regional passenger numbers have grown by over 30% from January to the end of June 2012. For more information on fares and schedules visit aerlingus.com. 100 |

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AerLingusNews Aer Lingus Scoops first Place for Top Nosh

Aer Lingus was recently voted best airline for its Sky Deli menu. The airline ranked ﬁrst out of 22 European airlines in a survey carried out by website, inﬂightfeed.com. Aer Lingus was praised for the variety of healthy options such as fresh salads and for the selection of cold and hot meals available, in particular the pasta dishes and Irish breakfast. Aer Lingus, Catering Director, Aidan Power said, “In Ireland we have some of the best produce in the world and the Aer Lingus catering team takes great pride and enjoyment in using these ingredients in creating excellent meals. We are delighted to be recognised as providing healthy and tasty meal choices for our customers.”

Jetblue to welCome aer lingus into its terminal, t5, at new yorK’s Kennedy airport

POSTERS OF IRISH OLYMPIANS ON DISPLAY A team of over 60 Irish athletes, in 14 sports, travelled to London at the end of July to represent Ireland at the London 2012 Olympic games. As proud sponsors of the Irish Olympic Team, Aer Lingus has a selection of posters of Irish Olympians, on display in several areas around Dublin and London Heathrow airports. The posters depict six of the Irish Olympians in action, in their respective disciplines, wishing the team good luck from all the staff at Aer Lingus. Large banners of the athletes can be viewed at Aer Lingus check-in T2, with further posters in the Aer Lingus Gold Circle lounges at Dublin and Heathrow, along with more images in the boarding areas. Be sure to look out for them next time you are passing through. Good luck, GráinnGe!ood luck , S

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aer lingus is to move its new york flight operations from terminal 4 at John f. Kennedy international airport into Jetblue’s acclaimed terminal 5, at JfK, in early 2013. aer lingus flights from dublin and shannon will fly into and out of terminal 5 at JfK. aer lingus customers connecting to one of Jetblue’s many destinations across the us will benefit from same terminal connections, one-stop ticketing and baggage check-in for travel on both airlines, from the us to europe. aer lingus customers will enjoy the many unique and exciting retail offerings, including a duty free store, and more than two dozen highly regarded dining establishments, featuring food and drink options that will appeal to a wide variety of international palates. with the move to terminal 5, the minimum connection time from european arrivals to us departures will be reduced to just 60 minutes. Customers travelling to ireland will enjoy connections as fast as 40 minutes. until its relocation in the first quarter of 2013, aer lingus will continue to operate from terminal 4, a short ride away on JfK’s free and frequent airtrain service. for more information on aer lingus and Jetblue schedules visit aerlingus.com and see map page 114.

 5%

January to 30 June 2012

AER LINGUS PASSENGER NUMBERS ON THE UP Aer Lingus passenger numbers continue to rise in 2012. Many thanks to all our passengers for your loyal custom.

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infLigHT ENTERTAINMENT

FLIGHTS TO THE US From Dublin to Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando; from Shannon to Boston and New York; from Madrid to Washington. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.

Movies

Marvel’s The Avengers

FLIGHTS TO THE US mARvEL’S THE AvEngERS

fRiEnDS WiTH kiDS

DR SEUSS’ THE LORAX

Marvel’s The Avengers is the Super Hero team up of a lifetime. When an unexpected enemy emerges that threatens global safety and security, Nick Fury, director of the international peacekeeping agency, finds himself in need of a team to pull the world back from the brink of disaster. Spanning the globe, a daring recruitment effort begins and The Avengers Initiative is born. Iron Man, The Hulk, Thor, Captain America, and Hawkeye assemble, learning to work together instead of independently. The Avengers is the 3rd biggest grossing movie of all time.

Friends with Kids is a daring and poignant ensemble comedy about a close-knit circle of friends at that moment in life when children arrive and everything changes. The last two singles in the group observe the effect that kids have had on their friends’ relationships and wonder if there’s a better way. They decide to have a kid together – and date other people. There are big laughs and unexpected emotional truths as this unconventional “experiment” leads everyone in the group to question the nature of friendship, family and, finally, true love. Stars Irish actor Chris O’Dowd of Bridesmaids fame.

The world of Dr Seuss comes to life like never before in this lively adventure from the creators of Despicable Me!, Dr Seuss’ The Lorax is an adaptation of Dr Seuss’ classic tale of a forest creature who shares the enduring power of hope. Twelve-yearold Ted will do anything to find a real life Truffala Tree in order to impress the girl of his dreams. As he embarks on his journey, Ted discovers the incredible story of the Lorax, a grumpy but charming creature who speaks for the trees. This animated feature for all ages features catchy tunes and hilarious gags borrowed from other classic family movies, from Toy Story to Babe.

STARS Robert Downey Jr, Mark Ruffalo, Scarlett Johansson, Chris Evans, Chris Hemsworth, Jeremy Renner DiREcTOR Joss Whedon

STARS Kristen Wiig, Chris O’Dowd, Jon Hamm, Adam Scott, Maya Rudolph, Jennifer Westfeldt DiREcTOR Jennifer Westfeldt

Action / Sci-Fi / Fantasy (PG 13) 142 minutes

Drama / Comedy (R) 100 minutes

Animation / Kids / Family (PG) 94 minutes

Friends with Kids

STARS DannyDeVito, Zac Efron, Taylor Swift DiREcTOR Chris Renaud

More Movies On Demand

Dr Seuss’ The Lorax

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THE THREE STOOgES Sean Hayes AmERicAn REUniOn Jason Biggs THE LUcky OnE Zac Efron miRROR miRROR Julia Roberts THE RAvEn Brendan Gleeson THink LikE A mAn Gabrielle Union DARLing cOmpAniOn Diane Keaton SEEking JUSTicE January Jones

cOmmE Un cHEf Jean Reno fATHER Of invEnTiOn Kevin Spacey TOUcHbAck Kurt Russell gOOn Seann William Scott fLickA: cOUnTRy pRiDE Lisa Hartman kUng fU pAnDA 2 Jack Black WALLAcE & gROmiT: cURSE Of THE WERE RAbbiT Helena Bonham Carter

FLIGHTS FROM THE US From Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando to Dublin; from New York and Boston to Shannon; from Washington to Madrid. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.

Movies

The Hunger Games

FLIGHTS FROM THE US THE HUNGER GAMES

THE fiVE-yEAR ENGAGEMENT

THE piRATES! BAND of MiSfiTS

Every year in the ruins of what was once North America, the evil Capitol of the nation of Panem forces each of its twelve districts to send a teenage boy and girl to compete in the Hunger Games. The Hunger Games are a nationally televised event in which “Tributes” must fight with one another until one survivor remains. Pitted against highly-trained Tributes, Katniss is forced to rely upon her sharp instincts as well as the mentorship of a former victor and make impossible choices in the arena that weigh survival against humanity and life against love.

The director and writer/star of Forgetting Sarah Marshall team up again for the irreverent comedy The Five-Year Engagement. Beginning where most romantic comedies end, the new film from director Nicholas Stoller, producer Judd Apatow and Rodney Rothman looks at what happens when an engaged couple, Jason Segel and Emily Blunt, keeps getting tripped up on the long walk down the aisle. The Five-Year Engagement is a truly modern romantic comedy that benefits from the easy chemistry of its leads; the funny and romantic script adds surprising depth and intelligence to the movie.

In The Pirates! Band of Misfits, Hugh Grant stars in his first animated role as the luxuriantly bearded Pirate Captain – a boundlessly enthusiastic, if somewhat lessthan-successful, terror of the high seas. With a rag-tag crew at his side the Captain has one dream: to beat his bitter rivals Black Bellamy and Cutlass Liz to the much coveted Pirate Of The Year award. It’s a quest that takes our heroes from the shores of exotic Blood Island to the foggy streets of Victorian London. Along the way they battle a diabolical queen and team up with a haplessly smitten young scientist, but never lose sight of what a pirate loves best: adventure!

Fantasy / Sci-Fi / Drama (PG 13) 144 minutes

STARS Jennifer Lawrence, Josh Hutcherson, Woody Harrelson, Lenny Kravitz DiREcToR Gary Ross

Comedy (R) 124 minutes

STARS Emily Blunt, Jason Segel DiREcToR Nicholas Stoller

Adventure / Kids / Family / Comedy ( PG ) 87 minutes

The Pirates! Band of Misfits

STARS VoicES of Hugh Grant, Brendan Gleeson, Martin Freeman, Salma Hayek, David Tennant DiREcToR Peter Lord

More Movies On Demand

The Five-Year Engagement

WRATH of THE TiTANS Liam Neeson coRiolANUS Ralph Fiennes DETAcHMENT Adrien Brody WilD Bill Charlie Creed-Miles lA ViE D’UNE AUTRE Juliette Binoche SAlMoN fiSHiNG iN THE yEMEN Ewan McGregor A liTTlE BiT of HEAVEN Kate Hudson cABiN iN THE WooDS Chris Hemsworth

WANDERlUST Jennifer Aniston THE BEST ExoTic MARiGolD HoTEl Judi Dench fAST GiRlS Lenora Crichlow yoUR SiSTER’S SiSTER Emily Blunt AlABAMA MooN John Goodman MADAGAScAR 2: EScApE To AfRicA Ben Stiller SHREk foREVER AfTER Cameron Diaz

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INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

Television On Demand TV gives you the opportunity to select and view your favourite TV shows at your leisure. Look out for the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of comedy and drama as well as a variety of genres. COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS encompasses fresh new comedy from HBO in Veep, Girls and How To Make It In America. Further comedy highlights take in New Girl, Nurse Jackie, Modern Family, Futurama, Rev and Absolutely Fabulous 20th Anniversary Special. Classic comedy features Father Ted, Sex and The City and Cheers. As we witness a golden age in TV drama – Aer Lingus brings you an appealing selection of DRAMA TV with the availability of both one-off and multiple episodes. Keep an eye out for two episodes of the compelling and cleverly conceived In Treatment starring Gabriel Byrne. In the stylish, smart and black comic drama Dexter, the main protagonist moonlights as a serial killer in Miami in pursuit of the coldblooded Ice Truck Killer. Also available is Bones which is inspired by real-life forensic anthropologist and best-selling novelist Kathy Reichs. BBC investigative drama Scott and Bailey explores the personal and professional lives of two female detectives.

Veep

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Available On-Demand is six episodes of Season 2 from the HBO triumph Boardwalk Empire. Steve Buscemi stars in this award-winning drama series that charts the continued rise of organised crime at the dawn of Prohibition in Atlantic City, New Jersey. “In Season 2 all the promise of last season looks to be realized with impressively deft storytelling, beautiful cinematography and impeccable acting.” (Hollywood Reporter) Premium HBO drama continues in Treme with the first six episodes of Season 2. This Emmy-nominated drama series takes place during the rebuilding of post-Katrina New Orleans. It charts the interconnected stories of several struggling musicians and locals, as they attempt to rebuild their lives through the music and traditions that make them, and the city, unique. The stylish Mad Men is set in a fictional 1960s advertising agency in New York City. This complex and intelligent drama has received much critical acclaim, particularly for its historical authenticity and visual style and has won multiple Emmy and Golden Globe awards. Available On-Demand is six episodes from Season 4. Watch out for six episodes of Season 2 of Blue Bloods – also set in New York, it stars Tom Selleck. This drama is a solid and gritty character-driven, multi-story series and Selleck’s character serves as the anchor for four generations of police officers. Award-winning drama continues with The Good Wife – a drama about a politician’s wife who pursues her own career as a defense attorney after her husband is

In Treatment

ON DEMAND

Modern Family charged with political corruption. Julianna Margulies has been widely recognised for her portrayal of Alicia Florrick, winning an Emmy in 2011, Screen Actors Guild Awards in 2010 and 2011, a Golden Globe in 2009. Available On-Demand are six episodes from Season 3. TEENS onboard can view Glee, Shake It Up and The Simpsons and kids will love Bob The Builder, Barney and Friends, Pingu and Thomas and Friends. LIFESTYLE AND MUSIC HIGHLIGHTS include America’s Next Top Model, Grand Designs, Jamie’s 30 Minute Meals, Anthony Bourdain: The Layover, Top Gear, Inside the Actors Studio (George Clooney), Bear Grylls Wild Weekend, Movie Talk, Other Voices, Black Cab Sessions USA, With Great Power: The Stan Lee Story, Planet Rock Profiles, Paul Simon (Live in New York) and HSBC Golfing World. DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS take in Megastructures with an episode on London’s Olympic Stadium. Enter a world beyond imagination in BBC’s Frozen Planet narrated by Sir David Attenborough. Titanic at 100 is a special History Channel feature to coincide with the disasters 100th anniversary. Test Your Brain from National Geographic concludes your choice of TV.

Radio

ON DEMAND

Pop

Talk Radio Documentary Easy Listening

Fitzpatrick Hotels

Chart Hits

Best of Moncrieff

Music Generation

This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information fitzpatrickhotels.com. Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.

Chart Hits lets you discover the latest chart hits as well as keeping tabs on your favourite artists. This upto-the-minute Pop show unveils the biggest smash hits from the world’s biggest artists. Featuring newcomers to the scene – Nicki Minaj and Emeli Sandé as well as established artists Katy Perry, Usher, Coldplay, Adele and the queen of pop Madonna – do not miss the exciting sounds of Chart Hits.

Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.

Music Generation – Ireland’s National Music Education Programme funded by generous donations from U2 and The Ireland Funds – helps young people access music education in their local area. In this documentary, Doireann Ní Bhriain travels to Louth, Sligo and Mayo to meet many of those behind the programme who tell the story of how it all began. This documentary is funded by The Broadcasting Authority of Ireland in association with RTÉ lyric fm and Music Generation.

Jazz

Classical

Documentary On One Documentary On One is the multiaward winning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (88-90FM). Currently the most successful documentary unit in the world; the documentary featured here is “On a Cape Clear Day” and focuses on an American couple who retired to Cape Clear Island off the coast of Ireland. The website rte.ie/doconone contains over 900 radio documentaries – all freely available to listen to/podcast. You can also download the free Documentary on One iPhone and/or Android app. Twitter @RTEDocOnOne

Interview

Classical Daytime

My Tunes

Jazz Alley

Niall Carroll presents a selection of great music from the heart of the core classical repertoire. Classical Daytime features some of the world’s most loved relaxing classics including Mozart’s Clarinet Concerto, Rodrigo’s Guitar masterpiece Concierto de Aranjuez and Saint-Saens Symphony No.3, “Organ”. This show is the ideal accompaniment to your flight and Classical Daytime can also be enjoyed on RTÉ lyric fm MondayFriday from 10am-2pm.

In this edition of My Tunes Aedín Gormley invites film director John Boorman to select, listen to and discuss music from his films. The renowned film director has made Ireland his home and here he discusses a lifetime of making films with a particular emphasis on the role of music in his films from the duelling banjos of Deliverance to Richie Buckley’s snazzy saxophone tunes in The General. My Tunes is on RTÉ lyric fm on Mondays from 7pm-8pm. Twitter @RTÉlyricfm

Donald Helme devotes Jazz Alley to the most popular instrument in the western world, the guitar, in both 6- and 7-string form. Helme focuses on the guitar which only came late to jazz, once the amplifier was invented in the 1930s. Featured artists include Anthony Wilson, Chuck Wayne, Howard Alden and the inventor of the 7-string, George Van Eps. Jazz Alley is on RTÉ lyric fm on Wednesday evenings from 7pm-8pm. Twitter @RTÉlyricfm

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Radio

ON DEMAND

Modern Hits

Eclectic Mix

Traditional Irish

Kids

Tubridy

Ronan Collins

Ceol na nGael

RTÉ Jr

Ryan Tubridy’s unique showmanship, intelligence and wit is broadcast to the nation every weekday morning on RTÉ 2fm. Tubridy is spontaneous, entertaining and intelligent, and in this show he plays his favourite songs featuring a diverse mix of modern hits from pop, rock to alternative and much more. Tubridy is one of Ireland’s most prolific broadcasters. Twitter @Tubridy2fm

RTE Radio 1 presenter Ronan Collins’ easygoing personality is a welcome interlude from the busy world around us. Tune in to this eclectic mix of songs where you will hear old favourites, new hits and hidden gems. Ronan enjoys the challenge of filling his programme with the kind of music that will make you smile, relax and reminisce. Twitter @RTERadio1

Ceol na nGael is a traditional and folk music programme presented, in Irish, by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Seán presents the weekly music programme Sruth na Maoile on RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and celebrates 40 years on air in 2012. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth, le Seán Ó hÉanaigh. For more visit: rte.ie/rnag. RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta is on Facebook and Twitter @RTERnaG.

Join Colm Flynn and all his friends from “The Club” on RTÉjr Radio for a fun-packed show to enjoy during your flight! There’s music, a Disney quiz, fun facts about flying, books, and special guests Jedward! RTÉjr Radio is Ireland’s only radio station that’s just for children. You can tune in on your digital radio, online rte. ie/digitalradio/rtejr Saorview and on the RTÉ Radio Player on your mobile device to hear more.

Alternative

Countdown

Rock

1980’s

Phantom 105.2

The Big 10

Cleared for Take-Off

Copeland Classic Hits

Phantom 105.2 is quite simply the home of the very best music played on any Irish radio station. Phantom is committed to playing brand new music, Indie Rock but really we will play all genres of music – if it’s a great track, we will play it. Oh, we also like having a bit of craic along the way so why not try something different and tune into Phantom 105.2 – we promise you won’t be disappointed! We are Phantom – music that rocks!

The Big 10 on 98FM features ten songs with a connection. Tune into the countdown every Sunday morning at 10am as we countdown The Big 10, each week a different set of songs are featured each with a different connection. Presented by Darragh O’Dea of Dublin’s 98 FM, this special edition of the show focuses on the acts that will be playing concerts in Ireland this year.

You’re cleared for take-off every weekday morning from 6am until 10am with Pat Courtenay on Radio Nova. Also tune in to Nova for Breakfast Reheated every Saturday from 8am until 10am. Courtenay’s show is a perfect combination of entertainment and of course the world’s greatest guitar-based songs. You can call Nova Breakfast on (01) 440 4 100. We’re online at nova.ie and you can download our app to listen to us wherever you are in the world.

Welcome to the music of Copeland Classic Hits brought to courtesy of Louis Copeland & Sons, a name synonymous with men’s tailoring in Dublin. Classic Hits is an exciting selection of hits from the 1980s. Louis Copeland is a world renowned master tailor and provider of men’s suits for over 100 years. His stores are located on in Dublin on Capel St, Pembroke St and Wicklow St and beside the IFSC, in Dublin Airport and in Galway. From Armani, Hugo Boss, Paul Smith and more- all leading labels are available in all stores. louiscopeland.com

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CORRECTIVE BODY THERAPY CBT, most of us are familiar with this term as cognitive behavioural therapy, but at Anne Rossi Clinic we have coined a new phrase, corrective body therapy. Corrective body therapy is a revolutionary solution to the problem of excessive weight and poor body shape. Diet, that dreaded word, but no… this is not what we know so well, this is nutritional therapy. Imagine embarking on a weight loss programme that is delicious and nutritious, yes hard to imagine but we have it here. High protein drinks, bars and savoury snacks with a wide variety of flavours to suit all palates and a meal in the evening. We have devised lots of menus that allow the full use of fresh veg, fish, poultry and meats… so where is the hardship in that!!

FRAXEL LASER TREATMENT Fraxel Laser Treatment is a safe, non-invasive procedure that allows you to rediscover the fresh, healthy skin of your youth. • Rejuvenate your neck, chest and hands • Smooth wrinkles around the eyes and acne scars • Erase unwanted brown spots • Improve texture, tone and pores • Minimal downtime

SEMI-PERMANENT MAKE UP This is a cosmetic technique which employs tattoos (permanent pigmentation of the dermis) as a means of producing designs that resemble makeup such as Eyelining and other permanent enhancing colours to the skin of the face, lips and eyelids. It is also used to produce artificial Eyebrows, particularly in people who have lost them as a consequence of age, over plucking, alopecia or chemotherapy.

ENDERMOLOGIE LIPOMASSAGE Lipomassage uses very precise protocols to offer a treatment that’s highly personalised to individual needs. The targeted zones are treated with deep, intense and dynamic manouvres. As muscles contract against the straps, the resistance isolates the fat. This ensures that only fat (no muscle) is grasped by the rollers and stimulated patients are asked to move frequently as this exposes problem areas to allow for best treatment possible.

Phone: +353 1 833 7021 | Email: info@annerossi.com | Website: www.annerossi.com Anne Rossi Clinic, 6-7 Vernon Avenue, Clontarf, Dublin 3

Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board to allow your skin to breathe, and apply a good moisturiser throughout. Stretch your legs as much as possible by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anticlockwise. Bend and straighten your ankles in a brisk manner with the knee straight. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.

Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce any possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. And remember to move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness. We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Reducing the eﬀects of jet-lag

Passengers with wheelchair requirements

To help reduce the effects of travelling and jet-lag before, during and after your flight, we have introduced an audio programme (available on Channel 6), which will play every other hour, offering 60 minutes of soothing and relaxing audio environments. The programme is designed to enhance your physical and mental wellbeing during the flight.

Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.

Apart from tuning in to the inflight relaxation programme, here are some other simple things that you can do to prepare for your journey. Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coﬀee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities gradually to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will also help to stimulate your circulation.

If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows:

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below. AER LINGUS

55cm (22ins)

email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Maximum weight

10kg

(Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222

43cm (17ins)

(22 lbs)

20cm (8ins)

Telephone:

AER LINGUS REGIONAL

40cm (16ins)

Maximum weight

7kg (15 lbs)

28cm (11ins)

20cm (8ins)

Additional small items, such as cameras, personal stereos, overcoats and handbags are allowed on board. EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of oﬀensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the ﬂight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other

passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not

be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.

RouteMaps EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Helsinki Stockholm

Aberdeen Edinburgh

Glasgow

Vilnius

Isle of Man Blackpool Manchester

DUBLIN

Hamburg

London

Birmingham

Kerry

Copenhagen

HEATHROW

Cardiﬀ

Southend London

Bristol Bournemouth

GATWICK

Paris

Rennes

Warsaw

Dusseldorf

Brussels

Jersey

Berlin

Amsterdam

Frankfurt

Stuttgart

Prague

Munich

Vienna

Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid

Faro

Milan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Budapest

Venice Verona Bologna

Bucharest Dubrovnik

Bourgas

Rome

Barcelona

Ibiza

Lisbon

Milan

LINATE

Krakow

Naples

Palma

Izmir

Alicante

Catania

Malaga

Athens

Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

■ Rennes Toulouse

Ireland ■ Kerry

Belgium Brussels

Denmark Copenhagen

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona (new route)

Bulgaria Bourgas Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife Croatia Dubrovnik

(commencing 28th October)

Finland Helsinki France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan

Greece Athens Hungary Budapest

Lithuania Vilnius The Netherlands Amsterdam

Poland Krakow Warsaw

Palma Santiago de Compostela

London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Sweden Stockholm (new route)

■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiﬀ Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man Southend

Romania Bucharest Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga

Switzerland Geneva Zurich Turkey Izmir United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh London (Gatwick)

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com

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INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Edinburgh

Glasgow

Knock

BELFAST

SHANNON

Dublin WATERFORD

Manchester Birmingham Luton Southend

Bristol London Heathrow LONDON GATWICK

CORK

Jersey

Amsterdam

Brussels

Paris

Rennes

Munich

Nice

Barcelona

Rome

Palma Lisbon Faro

Alicante Malaga

Lanzarote

Tenerife

Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon, Waterford & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Canary Islands Lanzarote Las Palmas Tenerife

FROM CORK

FROM GATWICK

Belgium Brussels (new route)

Italy Rome

Portugal Faro

Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga

France Nice Paris ■ Rennes

Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma

United Kingdom London Heathrow

Germany Munich

The Netherlands Amsterdam

United Kingdom London Gatwick London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

Ireland Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON France ■ Rennes United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Manchester

FROM WATERFORD ■ United Kingdom Luton Manchester Southend FROM KNOCK ■ United Kingdom Birmingham

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

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AUGUST 2012

USA ROUTE NETWORK

Chicago

Boston New York Washington

Shannon

Dublin

Orlando

Madrid

To & From Dublin, Shannon & Madrid FROM DUBLIN

FROM SHANNON

FROM MADRID

USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando

USA Boston New York

USA Washington DC

(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

Chicago Orlando

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INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS

CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis

Omaha Salt Lake City

Sacramento San Francisco San Jose

Kansas City Denver

Oakland

Nashville

Long Beach

Los Angeles San Diego

Phoenix

Houston

Columbus WASHINGTON DULLES

Lexington

Portland ME BOSTON

Nantucket NEW YORK

Baltimore Washington NATIONAL

Richmond Raleigh - Durham

Charlotte

Dallas (Fort Worth) Austin

Syracuse Rochester

Pittsburgh Burlington

Cleveland

Indianapolis Cincinnati Saint Louis Louisville

Las Vegas

Burbank

Detroit

CHICAGO

Toronto Buﬀalo

Atlanta

New Orleans

Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aguadilla

San Juan Ponce

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO New destinations with Aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United Airlines and Aer Arann Getting to the US from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. Now US, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental US destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to ﬂy to the United States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of United States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at

Terminal 2, Dublin airport. This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of US bound ﬂights to clear US immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the US without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their ﬁnal destination. ■ NEW YORK Connecting with JetBlue at JFK: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, simply hop on the Air Train to JetBlue’s Terminal 5 for your domestic connection. Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at

the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. ■ BOSTON Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan International Airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ CHICAGO Connecting with United Airlines at O’Hare Chicago International Airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your UA domestic departure point. Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus ﬂight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin.

■ DUBLIN Connecting with Aer Lingus Regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin Airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic ﬂights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their ﬁnal US destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

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Helsinki Stockholm

Aberdeen Edinburgh

Glasgow

Isle of Man Hamburg

Manchester

Dublin Birmingham

Shannon Kerry

London

Southend

Cardiﬀ Bristol

Berlin

Amsterdam

HEATHROW

Warsaw

Dusseldorf Brussels

London

GATWICK

Krakow

Frankfurt Paris Vienna

Munich

Geneva Milan

Venice

LINATE

Dubrovnik

Alicante

Faro

Alicante Amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dubrovnik Dusseldorf Edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg Helsinki Krakow Lisbon London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Munich Palma Paris Rome Stockholm

Malaga

Venice Vienna Warsaw ■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus Regional

Aberdeen Bristol Cardiﬀ Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend Kerry

■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus London (Heathrow) ■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus Regional

Naples

Palma

Lisbon

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus

Rome

Barcelona

Madrid

Manchester Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh

■ VIA NEW YORK with JetBlue

Aguadilla Austin Baltimore Buﬀalo Burbank Burlington Charlotte Chicago Denver Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Ponce Portland ME Portland OR Raleigh-Durham

Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Seattle Syracuse Tampa West Palm Beach

■ VIA BOSTON with JetBlue

Baltimore Buﬀalo Chicago Dallas Fort Worth Denver Ford Lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket New Orleans Oakland

Orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Richmond Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Seattle Tampa Washington (Dulles) Washington (National) West Palm Beach

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to USA

Atlanta Austin Charlotte Cincinnati Chicago Cleveland Columbus Dallas (Fort Worth) Denver Detroit Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville Kansas City Las Vegas Lexington Los Angeles Louisville Miami Minneapolis Nantucket Nashville New Orleans Omaha Phoenix Pittsburgh

Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose Seattle St Louis Tampa

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to Canada

Calgary Edmonton Salt Lake City Toronto Vancouver Winnipeg

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann AUGUST 2012

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FlightConnections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT

FLIGHTS ARRIVING AT TERMINAL 2 FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting ﬂight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting ﬂight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s

Immigration

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

Immigration

Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting ﬂight, and your baggage has been tagged to your ﬁnal destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:

PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE FRONT OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:

 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

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AUGUST 2012

London is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance

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THE CHEF’S COUNTER

THE CHEF’S COUNTER NOW OPEN FOR A UNIQUE DINING EXPERIENCE Located on the 3rd floor of The Pig’s Ear is the Chef ’s Counter Booking is essential at least 24 hours in advance. Call on 01 670 3865. 12 COURSE SURPRISE TASTING MENU €85PP

Michelin Bib Gourmand

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} > >ÃÌ i Ã > vÕ Þ ÀiÃÌ Ài` £ÓÌ i ÌÕÀÞ À >

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lunch menu €9.95 take out menu available

wagamama ireland

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Ì /i \ ³ ÎxÎ £ nÇä£äÓ > \ v JV } > V>ÃÌ i°V 7iL\ ÜÜÜ°V } > V>ÃÌ i°V *À «À iÌ À\ V i> ÕÀ i] > i i À Õ«

INFLIGHT SKY SHOPPING

Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf Eau de Toilette - 50ml Spicebomb is the new masculine fragrance from Viktor & Rolf. Electrifying, captivating and fearless. He doesn’t just explode – he goes boom. Spicebomb oﬀers a highly addictive explosion of spices, tamed by an invigorating freshness. This new fragrance is the weapon of mass seduction!

hope in a jar

60ml by philosophy A unique souﬄé texture originally created for the medical profession and recommended by plastic surgeons and dermatologists. It will improve the look of multiple skincare concerns including ﬁne lines, rough texture and dehydration. A drink of water for your skin.

Aer Lingus Fun Plane with FREE key-ring Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and ﬂashing lights. It comes complete with batteries for hours of fun. Also included is a FREE gift of a miniature plane key-ring.

Miss Dior Eau Fraîche Eau de Toilette - 50ml Enjoy the elegant chypre fragrance of Miss Dior in this new fresh and luminous version with its blend of bergamot and gardenia against base notes of patchouli.

118 |

AUGUST 2012

Naked2 by Urban Decay A taupe-centric palette of twelve neutral shadows (ﬁve brand new) in shades ranging from pale to deep, matt to sparkly. More beige in overall tone than their ﬁrst Naked palette, this collection still delivers subtle, neutral looks, smoky dramatic eyes and everything in between.

Shamballa Bracelet with Crystals and Natural Stones by Aeon This high-quality Aeon unisex crystal and natural stone beaded bracelet is part of a growing trend in jewellery that incorporates the healing properties of natural stones into fashion jewellery design. The crystals have always been a renowned symbol of peace, tranquillity and happiness. The fully adjustable 18cm to 23cm bracelet comes presented in an Aeon organza pouch.

Scents of Ireland Luxury Candles by Tipperary Crystal

These luxury scented candles are made in Ireland using luxury fragrances that evoke memories of Ireland. This charming gift box contains two wonderfully natural scented candles. The Mourne Memories candle has a fresh, clean mountain air scent while the Sligo Shores candle will bring back memories of the wild Atlantic shore to your mind. Also contains two picture postcards.

Sky Shopping

Tem pt in g

treats a n d grea t savi n gs

Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items at reduced prices onboard during August.

Storm Husky Puppy Storm is a super-soft Husky that will always be ready for a cuddle! A beautiful puppy that will bring a smile to his new owner.

Skagen Black Leather Strap Men’s Watch Genuine style. This men’s watch with a black leather strap connects to a brushed stainless steel case. The shiny black dial features twelve chrome and white luminous numbered indicators, a 24-hour dial and date function.

Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices

Skagen Silver Mesh Strap Women’s Watch Stainless steel appeal. Signature Skagen silver mesh bands connect to a slim stainless steel IP gold case with gold border. The vertically brushed chrome dial features twelve indicators made with CRYSTALLIZED™ Swarovski elements.

AUGUST 2012

| 119

TRIP OF A LIFETIME

Designs on London Nine-year-old Zara Campbell remembers a wonderful win and an exciting trip to London with her classmates.

high-flying experience was on the agenda recently as Zara Campbell received the news that her design for a new cabin crew uniform was the winning entry in the Aer Lingus Schools’ Art Competition. Zara, and her classmates from Ballynahinch Primary School in Co Down, won a superb trip to London. Here, she tells us about her design, what inspired her and that very exciting trip to London. “It didn’t take long to come up with my design. I bought myself a Create Your Top Model book, which has outlines of people that you can sketch your designs onto. It’s great – I have filled mine with designs for all sorts of occasions. “When I was coming up with the design, I looked at my mum’s catalogues and magazines to see what trends were in fashion and just went from there. I always prefer designing girls’ clothes, there is so much more choice for girls. Boys wear the same 120 |

AUGUST 2012

sort of stuff all the time – jeans, T-shirts or sports gear. The only thing that changes for them is the colour. “I had already researched some designers when I was doing my designer badge in Brownies and I liked that Stella McCartney tries to make her company very environmentally friendly. “I was also inspired by some of my teachers at school who dress very nicely and my granny and Auntie Alison are always very trendy. “I have been saying for ages that I would like to open a café in Italy with a little art gallery attached when I get older, but now I’d like to be a designer. If that doesn’t work out I’d like to be a hockey player. “When I found out that I’d won, I was embarrassed because all my classmates were shouting my name and cheering and jumping up and down. But it felt lovely too. On the day, our headmaster came into our room and he looked quite stern, we

Top, the sights – London Eye and Big Ben. Above, Zara with her winning design.

thought we were in trouble. He said ‘Do you remember the Aer Lingus competition? I have some exciting news.’ I just knew it was me who had won before he said my name! My classmates were really excited and we were really noisy with our cheers. Some of my classmates had never been on an aeroplane before, so they just couldn’t wait. It was funny to hear that the teachers all wanted to be chosen to come with us. “On the day of our trip, we had a really early start (4.30am) and our parents took small groups of us to the airport. We were all very excited. At the airport, the photographer was there and he took lots of photos of me with a model of my design that had been blown up to life size. I now know how Lady Gaga feels with all the camera flashes. “In London, first we went on the London Eye. You could see all the big sights of London: the Houses of Parliament, the Thames, Big Ben, the fancy buildings and bridges. I really enjoyed it – you go up very high in the pods. Then we went to Sea Life London Aquarium and it was amazing – they have almost every type of sea creature, we even saw a crocodile. But my favourite bit was seeing the penguins. Th ey They are great swimmers. “I saw a lot more people all dressed up for work in suits and dresses in London. It seemed to be very busy; and there was a lot of traffi c. I think it traffic. would be fun to live there though, as there is so much to see and do. “We also did a quick walking tour and saw 10 Downing Street and Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery. It was a very hot day and Mr Darcy (my headmaster) bought us an ice cream. It was a great day and I’ll always remember it. It was my first time; but I would love to go back and see some more with my family. I’d like to go to Madame Tussauds and Hamleys famous toyshop. “We got home at 10pm that night – very tired, but happy.”

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