CARA MAGAZINE October/November 2012

cara magazine October/November 2012

October/November 2012

ireland’s Business ambassadors aer lingus Kite Surf pro

Up, up

the Jura mountains

& Away

ride the best waves in mayo at the aer Lingus Kite surf Pro

nice new england Frankfurt

brilliant sheen Get close to actor Martin Sheen

Stockholm

nice the beautiful

christmas markets

Author Emma Donoghue on her year in the sun

sloping off

andrew mccarthy

Escape to the Jura Mountains

complimentary copy

We know what it takes to reach the Summit -

DUBLIN

And so do 3,000 of the world’s top tech innovators.

2012 17th & 18th of October 2012 RDS, Ballsbridge, D4.

TechCrunch ”excellent”

Wired ”extraordinary”

The Irish Times ”Top of the Pile”

Dublin Web Summit will attract over 3,000 of the world’s leading entrepreneurs, developers and designers to a fantastic 2-day get-together this October.

“As the leading corporate bank to international companies locating in Ireland, AIB are proud to sponsor the Dublin Web Summit.

We are delighted to welcome the world’s top tech innovators to Dublin and we salute the spirit of innovation that drives them constantly forward.”

- Diarmuid O’Neill, Head of AIB Corporate Banking Ireland Contact Details: Diarmuid O’Neill, Head of AIB Corporate Banking Ireland Tel: +353 1 641 4808 Email: diarmuid.e.o’neill@aib.ie Web: www.aib.ie/fdi

Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c., trading as AIB Corporate Banking Ireland, is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered Office: Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173

AIB Corporate Banking Ireland Making Business Happen

Contents October/November News

04 ArrivAls We meet the fresh new arrivals at Dublin’s T2 07 News DiAry The dates to save for October and November 08 News hotels Stays at a cool urban hangout and a rural retreat

Features

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28 brilliant sheen Veteran film and TV actor Martin Sheen discusses his career and Irish roots with Tony Clayton-Lea

Irish link – Martin Sheen

34 rOaD WarriOrs The Irish business executives selling brand Ireland abroad; Jamie Smyth takes to the road to speak with the key individuals

10 News restAurANts Top dining treats with Eoin Higgins

46 high flying Writer Pól Ó Conghaile heads way out west and discovers thrills and spills to be had kite surfing and more in Mayo

12 News DiAry NY/LON Thread – Aoife O’Riordain reports on the New York restaurants in London 14 News BusiNess Smart Traveller – Interior design specialist Denise Ryan on Milan’s business hotspots 16 News shoppiNg Gadgets to go – brilliant bike accessories from Sive O’Brien 18 News BeAuty to go Scent of a woman; Ellie Balfe showcases the season’s new perfumes 20 News people On my Travels – chef Dylan McGrath tells his tales

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Exhilarating thrills – Mayo

58 slOping Off Escape the Alpine hordes by heading for the slopes of the Jura Mountains; Nicola Iseard discovers an unspoilt haven 70 nice the beautiful Award-winning novelist Emma Donoghue opens up on the mesmerising city she has called home for the past year 85 leafy paraDise Writer and native New Englander Kim Knox Beckius takes us on a bespoke leaf-peeping tour of her neck of the woods

22 News people What’s in my Suitcase – fashion forward Sorcha Ó Raghallaigh opens her case 24 News Books Shelf Life – Bridget Hourican leafs through the new releases 26 News oN the rADAr Festive Flair – Eoin Higgins rounds up the best Christmas markets

regulars 91 AN iNsiDer’s guiDe to frANkfurt Sarah O’Keeffe shares her city secrets 94 48 hours iN stockholm City cool – Kate O’Dowd saunters through the Swedish city streets 97 Aer liNgus iNflight What’s on for October and November – movies, music and inflight information 120 trip of A lifetime Actor, writer and 1980s heart throb, Andrew McCarthy relives a moment of clarity

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On your bike – Gadgets to Go

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Natural beauty – Nice

EDITORIAL Editor Frances Power Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Editorial Consultant Laura George Editorial Assistant Carlynn McCarthy Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Ellie Balfe, Suzie Coen ART Art Director Clare Meredith Acting Art Director Sandra Horan ADVERTISING Account Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie Advertising Manager Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie

Contributors Hailing from Dublin, but based in London, Ontario, EMMA DONOGHUE is a novelist, playwright and literary historian whose latest book of stories, Astray, is all about journeys. Her new play – The Talk of the Town – premieres at the Dublin Theatre Festival (to October 14). With her partner and children, Donoghue recently spent ten months in Nice on the French Riviera (see page 70) eating way too many pains au chocolat (which, she was delighted to learn, are at least considerably lower-calorie than pains au raisin). “The only problem is that when I tell people about it, their eyes slightly cross with resentful envy,” she laughs. “There’s a quality of beauty to the place that gave every ordinary day there an extraordinary overtone.”

Editor at large for National Geographic Traveler magazine, ANDREW MCCARTHY has written for the New York Times, The Atlantic and The Wall Street Journal. He was recently named “Travel Journalist of the Year” by the Society of American Travel Writers. Despite these dubious achievements, Andrew is best known for kissing Molly Ringwald (in Pretty in Pink), dragging a dead body through two films (Weekend at Bernie’s I & II) and for trying to keep Robert Downey Jr. off drugs (Less Than Zero). His memoir, The Longest Way Home, has just been released. His story (see page 120) is an example of “one of the multitude of things discussed in the book that I have had to get over in order to get on with life.”

ADMINISTRATION Head of PR & Promotions Linda McEvitt +353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie Office Manager Tina Koumarianos Accounts Olga Gordeychuk Accounts Assistant Lisa Dickenson BOARD OF DIRECTORS Managing Director & Publisher Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Patrick Dillon-Malone Director Ann Reihill Director Robert Power PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie.

Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content.

Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie IMAGE Publications Ltd –

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOËLLE O’REILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE

Based in London, NICOLA ISEARD is an award-winning freelance travel writer. She is also the editor of Fall-Line, a skiing magazine, so she spends much of her time on the slopes – something she’s had a passion for since she learnt to ski at four years old. Last winter, Nicola travelled to the Jura Mountains, tucked in the northern French Alps, for Cara.

“A world away from fast-paced Geneva just 15 minutes away, this is a peaceful region, carpeted with vast stretches of wilderness”, remarks Nicola. “But, despite having three ski areas, it is relatively undiscovered by the hoards of skiers that descend upon the Alps.

For my husband, Christian, and I looking for a long weekend’s ski jaunt, it was a no-brainer”.

ON THE COVER

Kitesurfing on Achill Island, Co Mayo, in the run-up to the Aer Lingus Kite Surf Pro. Photographed by Peter Dybowski and David Sciora of Big Smoke Studio.

Arrivals

This month, Dublin Airport’s T2 played host to sports enthusiasts, holiday makers and trips down wn memory lane. Cara magazine snapped some of them. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

 We spotted DIT student, aisling studen KenneDy, left, with Ke her delighted mum, grainne, right, as gra she returns from a sixweek stint of working we and travelling around the United States.

 Twins PatricK, left, and michael graDus, right, are visiting with their college football team St Norbert in the US. This is their second visit, last time, they came to support their sister, a professional Irish dancer.  Davis Bittner, left, ft, and Daniel valencia valencia, right, are in Ireland for the first time to represent their high school football team Jesuit Prep School in Dallas as part of GIFT, the Global Ireland Football Tournament.

WorDS By CArLyNN McCArThy

 Kieran o’leary and sonja matthews are in Dublin to take part in a friendly tournament of the little-known sport, Jugger. Both from Australia, they will head on to the World Championships ampionships in Berlin.

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 Fresh off their Aer Lingus flight from Milan, Italian expat, elena schnur and her kids matilDe and leonarDo errico can’t wait to get back to their Sandymount home.

october/november 2012

 Kilkenny man and UCD student, joe clohosey, is just back from Chicago, where he received a scholarship to play hurling for the summer.

 the cazuc family family, from left, Ciara, Killian, Ma Mary and Erwan are off to Co Leitrim to visit Mary’s parents, who are celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary.

Then it is back home to Geneva.

christa and niKolaus schÜes have returned to Nikolaus’s old stomping ground, Dublin. The hamburg native worked as a shipbroker in Dun Laoghaire in the 1960s and has carried a torch for the place ever since.

Every great city has an iconic store.

A store which celebrates luxury, creativity, service and the very best Irish and international brands since 1849.

WELCOME TO

BROWN THOMAS GRAFTON STREET DUBLIN, PATRICK STREET CORK, O’CONNELL STREET LIMERICK, EGLINGTON BUILDINGS GALWAY WWW.BROWNTHOMAS.COM

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ❃

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news Diary

October/November

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world Handball Championships, Dublin Ready? Set? Throw! Hot on the heels of the Olympics, the Citywest International Arena, Dublin, plays host to globetrotting handball players and enthusiasts at the 2012 World Handball Championships. The event is one of the biggest on the handball circuit and takes place over eleven days on a 22-court purpose-built arena; crowds of up to 2,500 are expected daily.

Runs October 11-21. Tickets from €10; worldhandball2012.com

What’s happening this autumn.

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The Sleeping Beauty, Cork Cork City Ballet presents Tchaikovsky’s classic ballet, The Sleeping Beauty, at the Cork Opera House. The title role is performed by Russian ballet star Ekaterina Bortyakova, while the choreography is directed by Bolshoi Ballet’s Yuri Demakov. The combo of sophistication and expertise makes this an irresistible performance for even the most discerning ballet fan. Runs November 22-24.

Tickets from €15; corkcityballet.com

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scottish international storytelling Festival, edinburgh & Glasgow Celebrating the bicentennial of the publication of the Brothers Grimm tales, this festival delves into the mysterious world of European folklore with live storytelling and interactive discussions with some of the leading experts in folk tales from Poland, Ireland and Germany. Highlight? The Enchanted Wood – a day trip to the Botanic Garden in Edinburgh where fairytales are brought to life by the Scottish Youth Theatre – is a magic family day out. Runs October 19-28. scottishstorytellingcentre.co.uk aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO eDinBUrGH DAILY AND FROM SHANNON, MON, TUE,WED, THUR, FRI, SUN. aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO GLasGOw DAILY AND FROM CORK, MON, WED, THUR, FRI AND SUN.

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Jazzfest, Berlin Berlin once again confirms its credentials as one of the coolest capitals in Europe with this year’s Jazzfest. Programming looks at how Jazz has affected society and has reacted with other mediums like tap dance, film and poetry. Highlights include performances by US jazz saxophonist Archie Shepp and French percussionist Manu Katché. Runs November 1-4. Tickets from €15; berlinerfestspiele.de aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BerLin DAILY.

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Jewellery Box – ireland’s Hidden Gems, new york In 2010 photographer Daragh Muldowney travelled around the Irish coast armed with two cameras and a multitude of macro lenses in a quest to get a closer look at the fascinating life within the country’s rock pools.

The resulting exhibition, sponsored by Aer Lingus, showcases these colourful worlds at their best.At the Irish Consulate in New York. Runs October 4- 31. dulraphotography.com aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO new yOrK DAILY AND SHANNON TO new yOrK, MON, WED, FRI AND SUN.

october/november 2012

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news hotels

Escape

Discover a hip New York hangout and an Alpine getaway in northern Italy.

VIGIlIUs MoUntAIn ResoRt, ItAlY

wYthe hotel, new YoRK

Leave your stresses and worries behind as you make the 1,500-metre ascent to this award-winning eco resort in South Tyrol, overlooking the Dolomites (it’s only accessible via cable car). The resort’s sleek architecture – all pine, glass, reclaimed timber and a grass-covered roof – slots effortlessly into the location, its materials reflecting the environment.

Here, you can relax in one of the eleven treatment rooms, find inner peace at the yoga workshops, relax in the open air sauna, or feel the burn toboganning, snow-hiking or skiing on Mount San Vigilio. Escape doesn’t come more definitive than this. Rooms from €225. Monte S. Vigilio, Pavicolo 43, 39011 Lana South Tyrol, +39 0473 556 600; vigilius.it

A former cooperage, the Wythe has become a magnet for cool Brooklynites since it opened in May. Besides its slick appearance – the interior boasts avant-garde art and locally crafted wallpaper – the Wythe also hosts many übermodern amenities to draw the crowds. There’s a show-stopping giant glass cube on the roof that opens onto a bar, bike-sharing, valet parking and mini-bars that stock home-made ice cream. And all that’s before you check out the restaurant, Reynards, brainchild of renowned Brooklyn restaurateur Andrew Tarlow. Rooms from $179.

80 Wythe Avenue at North 11th, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, +1 718 460 8000; wythehotel.com

AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO VeRonA, TUE, WED, THUR AND SAT.

AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO new YoRK DAILY AND FROM SHANNON MON, WED, FRI AND SUN.

BAllYnAtRAY hoUse AnD estAte, CoRK

FAZenDA noVA, PoRtUGAl

Busy Londoners Tim and Hallie Robinson longed for a new life away from the stresses of the city. The upshot of that longing is a lovingly restored 19th-century farmhouse in the eastern Algarve. Fazenda Nova is a ten-suite, boutique hideaway with an understated beauty that carries from the rooms to the impressive restaurant, A Cozinha, which uses seasonal produce from the farmhouse’s gardens and local markets. Bread is baked fresh every morning in the original 200-year-old oven – almost worth making the trip for that alone. Rooms from €170. Estiramantens, Santo Estevao 8800-504, Tavira, +351 281 961 913; fazendanova.eu AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO FARo DAILY AND FROM CORK TO FARo, MON, TUE, WED, THUR, SAT AND SUN.

Shake the moth balls from your tweeds, pull on your galoshes and make like the gentry this winter with a self-catering stay at Ballynatray Estate in Co Cork. Big house activities include simulated game shooting, archery and fishing. Foodies will be happy too – just a stone’s throw away you have the renowned Ballymaloe cookery school and restaurant. Accommodation comes in many forms, none more romantic than the Boat House, above: a tiny cottage perched on the edge of the River Blackwater.

Spend your weekend sipping something amusing on your balcony or relaxing in the roll-top bath watching the wildlife pass by.

Cottages from €165. Ballynatray, Youghal, Co Cork, 024 97460; ballynatray.com

ng medieval towers.

Like history? then you’ll love Torre Prendiparte, one of Bologna’s few survivi some 18th-century graffiti and has the twelfth-century fortress is a staggering 65 metres high, has twelve floors, ts on its rooftop; prendiparte.it been converted into a one bedroom B&B. it also hosts chamber music concer 8|

october/november 2012

Whatever’s next, since 1843.

This iconic building on Dublin’s Henry Street is Ireland’s largest and longest established department store. Arnotts is home to the world’s best in beauty, fashion for men and women, homewares, all the latest in technology and Ireland’s largest and loveliest shoe department, The Shoe Garden.

There are several places to eat, including Clodagh’s Kitchen, in which everything is homemade by celebrity chef Clodagh McKenna. In other words, Arnotts is more than just shopping. It is an experience.

Shop online www.arnotts.ie Arnotts, 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1 / 01 805 0400

Like us on Facebook!

‘Arnotts Department Store’

Follow us on Twitter! ‘@arnottsdublin’

news restaurants

Food File

From a burger joint to a luxury brasserie, Eoin Higgins finds plenty to warm his cockles.

PrunIer, ParIs

Designed by the architect Louis-Hippolyte Boileau in 1925, a cursory glance at the meticulous craftsmanship here – in black marble, mosaics and stained-glass windows – might make you think that they simply don’t make restaurants like this anymore. A shame, for Emile Prunier’s vision to create a restaurant that venerated the edible gifts from the sea, is nothing if not spellbinding. High on Marco Pierre White’s hotlist too: “I think [Prunier] is one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world, well actually the most beautiful restaurant in the world …”, Prunier is the epitome of a luxury brasserie, as well as being an Art Deco jewel in central Paris. A grand cathedral to seafood; the lunch menu at €45 is a good bet. 16 Avenue Victor Hugo, Paris, +33 144 173 585; prunier.com aer LIngus FLIES FroM DuBLIn AnD cork To ParIs DAILy.

tHe strawBerrY tree, CO wICKLOw

Ireland’s only certified organic restaurant deserves acclaim for its rarity as a species as much as anything else; but it should also be loved for its creative use of local produce, considered execution and its refreshing, rural setting. upon arrival, expect to dodge skittering chickens and dopey pheasants, all of which have free rein within the grounds. once ensconced in the slightly surreal, blue dining room, service is formal yet relaxed. The tasting menu (€65 per person) is the thing to go for. It’s hard not to be impressed by the organic punchiness of the flavours and the integrity of the food here, and leaving with a desire to lead a more earth-friendly life is not uncommon, even if the motivation is gluttonous … As well as being fully organic, much of the menu lists wild produce, from fresh-picked leaves to salmon (when in season), it’s a very natural, and all too unusual, way to eat. Macreddin Village, co Wicklow, 0402 36 444; brooklodge.com

OsterIa nerO D’aVOLa, taOrMIna

Tucked away from the whirl of fashion and gelato on Taormina’s main drag, Turi Siligato’s, left, osteria-cum-enoteca is a slow food experience worth unwinding to. Presentation isn’t too fancy; service is just the right side of attentive; and although prices may be a smidge higher than some other osterias around town, it is worth it to savour Turi’s enthusiasm for local produce. Start with a stimulating Mediterranean sashimi plate and follow with the simple, yet memorable spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and mouthwatering Sicilian specialty, tuna bottarga. For honest, regionspecific fare, served in relaxed surroundings, this one is hard to beat in Taormina. Piazza San Domenico 2B, Taormina, Sicily, +39 0942 628 874; osterianerodavola.com aer LIngus FLIES FroM DuBLIn To CatanIa WED AnD Sun.

BOstOn Burger COMPanY, BOstOn

The burger revolution continues to roll out in cities across the Western hemisphere. How the humble patty and bap has become such a gastro staple is a mystery to some, but while certain places are evolving and elevating the modest burger, still others are jumping on the bandwagon in the hopes of making a quick buck. It’s a polarising trend. one of the evolutionists though is the Boston Burger company in the city’s hip Davis Square. Twentyfour combinations reveal a great hunger for burger variety in Beantown and the rest of the menu has its diverse moments too – Spicy Terodactyl [sic] wings anyone? Multifariousness aside, the Boston Burger co is also a great leveller, where both the simple burger lover and the gourmand should find something to chew over. 37 Davis Square, Somerville, +1 617 440 7361; bostonburgerco.com aer LIngus FLIES FroM DuBLIn To BOstOn DAILy AnD FroM SHAnnon To BOstOn TuE, THur, SAT AnD Sun.

ra of the region’s most The Dingle Food & Wine Festival runs from October 4-7 and celebrates a pletho ts, taste trails acclaimed foodie and drinkie heroes through cookery demos, tastings, marke and many other delicious happenings and events. dinglefood.com 10 |

october/november 2012

NEWs diaRY

NY/LON Thread

Londoners enjoy a taste of the Big Apple as some of NYC’s best-loved restaurants open up shop. Aoife O’Riordain reports.

T

he relationship between London and New York has always been a bit special.

These two great world cities have a lot in common. Increasingly so when it comes to their eating habits, with several New York restaurants, which are eager to emulate their success on the other side of the Atlantic, scheduled to open this year and next in the British capital.

You could be forgiven for thinking that you had arrived at the wrong place, but the front of La Bodega Negra (+44 207 758 4100; labodeganegra.com) on Old Compton Street in the heart of Soho is an ironic nod to its surroundings: the basement restaurant’s ground floor exterior reads “Sex Shop”.

This London sibling to hipster favourite, La Esquina, in downtown Manhattan, had queues out the door when it opened last March.

Similar to New York, upstairs it’s a walk-in style diner with a Mexican slant, featuring the likes of tacos and tostadas.

Londoner Keith McNally moved to New York in the 1970s and since then has become one of the kings of the city’s dining scene, with a clutch of über-trendy eateries. Among them are the Meatpacking District’s Pastis, the Minetta Tavern and the all-day dining Balthazar, his Parisian-style brasserie-cum-bakery set in Spring Street in the heart of Soho. So it was only a matter of time before he decided to bring it all back home.

Needless to say, Balthazar London, set to open in Covent Garden’s Russell Street, promises to be one of the capital’s most hyped new openings this autumn.

Manhattan hotspot, SUSHISAMBA was immortalised in the television series Sex and The City and the party atmosphere still prevails, even though Carrie and pals have moved on. Its Brazilianmeets-Peruvian-meets-Japanese menu has proved popular stateside with a chain of four restaurants. Its first European venture opened in July in arguably one of London’s most spectacular dining rooms – on the 38th and 39th floors of Heron Tower, the tallest building in the City of London (+44 203 640 7330; sushisamba.com). Here diners are treated to menu favourites such as the Moqueca Mista, a stock of shrimp, squid and lobster with coconut milk, cashew nut and chimichurri rice as well as the El Topo roll of salmon, jalapeno pepper, shiso leaf, mozzarella and crispy onion. Come nightfall, the twinkling lights of the capital work their magic with The Shard, The Gherkin and Tower Bridge all visible.

Meanwhile, the BBC World Service’s former home has been transformed into the home of the newly opened ME Hotel. Its restaurant, which opens this October, is the first European branch of STK (stkhouse.com), imported from Manhattan’s Meatpacking District.

3 global restaurants ...

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NEW YORK The first Hakkasan (hakkasan.com) was tucked in a basement down a tiny alleyway off the wrong end of Oxford Street, but its winning formula of sophisticated Chinese cuisine, killer cocktails and its signature glamorous interiors has found fans all over the world. Its latest American venture opened in West 43rd Street in Manhattan in April and several more are planned.

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october/november 2012

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The view from SUSHISAMBA on the 38th and 39th floors of London’s iconic Heron Tower takes in the London landmark, The Gherkin.

bOlOgNa Bologna is one of Italy’s most celebrated gourmet hotspots and right in the centre of the city’s atmospheric historical centre is Eataly bologna (eataly.it) – a fitting tribute to all things Italian. Part of a growing chain, which now also has a sprawling branch in New York, it encompasses a market, grocery store, café and several restaurants all under one roof.

The American invasion of London does not stop there either – London’s diners have further culinary imports to look forward to. André Balazs plans to open his first luxury hotel in Marylebone next year; it is rumoured that the achingly hip Standard Grill may be the in-house restaurant.

Meanwhile, with a site secured in Mayfair, Londoners will soon be able to enjoy the relaxed yet sophisticated approach of A Voce to traditional Italian fare. Its two branches in Manhattan, at Columbus Circle and Madison Avenue, are already firm favourites with Italophile New Yorkers, thanks to delicious riffs on classics conceived by executive chef Missy Robbins. Watch this space ...

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paRis One of France’s most celebrated chefs, Joël Robuchon, has found worldwide fame with his expensive mini-chain, l’atelier de Joël Robuchon. His take on haute cuisine tapas can be found from London to Las Vegas. However the original, designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon and with 40 seats set around a sleek black bar on the Left Bank of Paris, remains the most chic (joel-robuchon.net).

travel happy

news Business travel

Smart traveller

Want to make the right moves in Milan? Lisa Hughes finds out where to go.

lITTlE Black Book Milan As director of Fineline Interior Design, Denise Ryan specialises in the interior or design of bars, restaurants and hotels in Ireland and overseas. Here she shares the lowdown on her favourite city for business, Milan.

Best for business lunch … My favourite restaurant for authentic Milanese dining is Da Giacomo restaurant (Via Pasquale Sottocorno, 6; giacomomilano.com). It is a little pricy but the experience is perfect every time. If I want a quick bite at any time of day, I love the Princi Bakeries – not just for their impeccable design but also their fantastic breads.

Best for business drinks …

The Italians don’t quite do bars like we do in Ireland, so business drinks are better in hotels. the Bulgari Hotel (Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b; bulgarihotels.com) would be my first choice, or alternatively the Gray Hotel (Via San Raffaele, 6; hotelthegray.com) Best business hotel … I like to stay at the starhotels e.c.ho. (Viale Andrea Doria, 4; starhotels.com) or, if it’s unavailable, then the Hotel Berna (Via Torriani Napo, 18; hotelberna.com), as both are

reasonably priced and within a short walk of the main train station in Milan. tipping … Some restaurants include a service charge in their prices but it’s not uncommon for the locals either to tip very little or not at all. As a visitor it is not expected but appreciated – depending on the service and the meal. saving time … The biggest drain on time is catching up on emails when I get back so I keep on top of emails when I’m waiting for a flight or when I have downtime. I used a BlackBerry but now find the iPhone infinitely better.

Doing business in Milan for the first time … Research your travel dates carefully to ensure there are no large fairs on at the Fiera rho Milano as this could quadruple your hotel bill. travel tip … When travelling for business, I wrap my ironed clothes individually in

the plastic that dry cleaning comes in and then fold them.

Clothes crease clothes, but this way, there is no need to iron the clothes when you get there.

On your downtime … I love strolling around the Brera District, browsing through boutique shops and trendy cafés. 10 Corso Como (Corso Como, 10, +39 02 2900 2674; 10corsocomo. com) is a haven for anyone interested in design because of its courtyard cafés, bohemian wares and books on architecture, interiors, graphic and fashion design.

I have yet to see an opera at la scala (Via Filodrammatici, 2; teatroallascala.org) but it’s on my list!

With one touch, this handy gadget allows users to connect up to five Wi-Fi enabled devices to the internet, such as PCs, cameras, iPods and iPads. From €29, available at vodafone.ie or in Vodafone shops. october/november 2012

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tHe BalMOral This Rocco Forte Hotel is a Scottish favourite and has regularly been cited as one of the UK’s to top business hotels. A landmark because of its majestic clock tower, the Balmoral is next to Waverley Station and offers an ex exclusive reception venue, private dining and seven of the best corporate meeting ro rooms in the city. (1 Princes Street, +44 131 556 2414; thebalmoralhotel.com) tHe rutlanD For a boutique business offering with a touch of glamour, the Rutland Hotel is hard to beat. The twelve rooms come equipped wi with the latest technology, including hi high-speed Wi-Fi, and the hotel is located be between the main shopping area and busy fin financial district. (1-3 Rutland Street, +44 131 22 229 3402; therutlandhotel.com) aPeX internatiOnal HOtel Designed with the business traveller in mind, this four-star hotel’s rooms are all about creating a work environment away from the office. Free Wi-Fi, free local phone calls, large work stations and seven fully equipped meeting rooms for groups of two to 250 are just part of the Apex experience. (31-35 Grassmarket, +44 131 441 0440; apexhotels.co.uk) eDinBurGH CitY HOtel A more affordable option, the City Hotel has special business traveller rates and has a convenient city centre location. Rooms are spacious, Wi-Fi is free and value dining starts from £11.99.

(79 Lauriston Place, +44 131 622 7979, edinburghcityhotel.com) sHeratOn GranD HOtel anD sPa hosts the Link@Sheraton, an innovative social space with computers, free Wi-Fi and sofas for guests.

Club Room guests can access the stylish Sheraton Club Lounge for snacks throughout the day. (1 Festival Square, +44 131 229 9131; sheratonedinburgh.co.uk)

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news shOpping

Gadgets TO gO

Taking to the track or tarmac on your travels? Pedal up with th some nifty accessories for your bike kit. By Sive O’Brien.

Be viSiBle REAR LIGHTS Knog, €40 each at mtbroutes.com

Stay Safe STREET SPORT HELMET Nutcase, €69.90 at dutchbikeshop.ie

Beat thirSt HYDRATION PACK Camelbak, €91 at evanscycles.com

travel liGht FOLD-UP BIKE Tern, €2,187 at evanscycles.com

find your way GPS Garmin, €273 at mysatnav.ie Baffle the wind FEATHERLITE JACKET €101 at montane.co.uk

Get a Grip LEATHER ROAD SHOES Rapha, €360 at rapha.cc

relive the thrillS HELMET HD CAMERA GoPro, €349 at bigsurf.ie

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Why travel far for world class care?

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BeautyON THE GO

Fresh fragrances: picks the best of the new perfumes launching this season.

1

Every Jo Malone launch is something to look forward to and Blackberry & Bay, €46, is the latest olfactory offering from the brand.

Comprising notes of blackberries, freshly picked bay leavess and zesty grapefruit, it is a super-fresh, vaguely nostalgic scent that is sure to be a best-seller.

Manifesto is a sophisticated and glamourous fragrance from Yves Saint Laurent, €53.50. Extremely feminine, this perfume contains jasmine, tonka bean and fresh green notes, which add a modern edge to its intensely floral heart.

2

3

Julia Roberts is the ambassadress for Lancôme’s latest and muchanticipated, La Vie Est Belle, €47. The fragrance was created by three of France’s most esteemed perfumers and took three years to create.

Based on the iris,

with jasmine jasmine, orange blossom and Indonesian patchouli, it is a beautiful floral fragrance with depth. It is the brand’s biggest fragrance launch since Trésor back in the 1990s and one that will no doubt become one of the next generation iconic scents.

SUPER SPA ... October sees Dublin’s Shelbourne hotel expanding to include an exciting five-star spa for all dedicated beauty lovers. Featuring top-tier treatment brands, Elemis and Pevonia ... the new spa to be seen in; theshelbourne.ie

4

Coco Noir by Chanel, €92, is the next step in the Coco franchise. With a darker, more broody sophistication than Mademoiselle, Noir contains pink peppercorn, rose, narcissus and jasmine with lower notes of cedar and rose geranium.

18 |

Contained in a truly beautiful black bottle, this is a stunning fragrance and a definite classic in the making.

Private Blend Jardin Noir is a quartet of fragrances for autumn from Tom Ford. Each one celebrates and re-imagines four of the most treasured

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october/november 2012

blooms in perfumery. Lys Fume, €165, is based on a nightblooming tropical white lily but you wouldn’t recognise it; Ford has added ylang ylang, nutmeg, turmeric and West Indian demerara rum essence to create a dreamy, hypnotic warmth.

This scent series is one to covet.

MY BEAUTY TY MUSTS Irish DJ and model Vogue Wilson,, who now lives in sunny Australia, shares her tips on how to look fresh afterr flying from onee side of the world rld to the other.

YOUR FAVOURITE BEAUTY PRODUCT FOR LONG FLIGHTS? A good moisturiser is always a staple.

I love Decléor’s Experience de L’Âge – Triple Action Rich Cream; I always get dry skin on long-haul flights so this makes sure I don’t.

YOUR TOP TIP FOR STAYING FRESH ON FLIGHTS? I always take off my make-up during a longhaul flight, then I moisturise at least once every couple of hours. It’s great to use a face mist too and I think the Decléor masks are amazing. Everybody always says drink loads of water but I don’t usually stick to that! On short flights I don’t really have a routine; they are the time to sit back with a glass of wine and read magazines.

YOUR MAKE-UP ROUTINE BEFORE YOU GET OFF A FLIGHT? I always wear sunglasses because they cover tired eyes. I put on my MAC foundation and add some Strobe Cream, also from MAC, underneath, so my skin looks glowy. Then I just use a bit of lip gloss and I’m good to go.

DO YOU USE ANY MULTI-PURPOSE PRODUCTS? I like to use a cream blush as a lip balm. It adds a really natural touch of colour without looking too strong.

YOUR FAVOURITE DESTINATION? I don’t really have one but I like anywhere hot. If I had to choose one I would say Ireland, since moving to Australia this is definitely my favourite place to come back to.

YOUR LAST BEAUTY PURCHASE? My make-up artist gave me a wedding package of all the essentials I needed on the day. I got lots of lip-glosses because I’m obsessed with them.

ANY PRODUCTS YOU STOCK UP ON WHILE ABROAD? I always bring loads of Paw Paw cream home from Australia for my friends, it’s amazing.

PhOTOgRAPh BY AgATA STOINSkA AT D-LIghT STuDIOS

NEWS BEAUTY

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STRAP NEWS PEOPLE

On my Travels Chef Dylan McGrath gives Suzie Coen a taste of his favourite international restaurants and his top travel hotspots.

In 2006, Belfast-born Dylan McGrath came to Dublin to take up the head chef position at Mint Restaurant in Ranelagh, where he was soon awarded a Michelin star. When Mint closed down, he opened a more casual dining experience in the form of Rustic Stone on Dublin’s South Great George’s Street. This month sees the opening of his latest venture, Fade Street Social, a 745-squaremetre building in the heart of Dublin, housing two separately styled restaurants. Dylan is also a co-presenter and judge on the second series of Masterchef Ireland, currently showing on RTÉ Two. TRAVELLING FOR WORK IS ALWAYS A PLEASURE ... I’m just back from a research trip to Barcelona, San Sebastian and London, where I visited 24 restaurants in four days. The highlight was lunch in Le Gavroche in London where I had chef Michel Roux Jr’s signature truffle and squab pigeon dish.

MY CULINARY HEROES ARE ... David Chang for his commercial understanding of the business; Pierre Gagnaire for his brilliant talent and artistic approach and Ferran Adrià, who taught us how important time is and how we use it.

I DON’T TEACH PEOPLE HOW TO CUT CARROTS ... It’s about presenting possibilities.

I believe that if you apply emotion and

repetition and tap into a vision for your team, there’s every chance that you will succeed.

THE BEST PART OF MASTERCHEF IRELAND IS ... Watching Irish amateurs develop in a way you didn’t think was possible and witnessing how their confidence builds when they realise how talented they really are.

MY LAST SUPPER WOULD BE ... A dish of foie gras cooked in Sauternes.

BUT SOMETIMES ALL I WANT TO EAT IS ...

Chip sandwiches. With brown sauce. It’s not a regular occurrence, though!

IF YOU’RE IN NEW YORK, YOU’VE GOT TO TRY ... Momofuku Ko in the East Village.

Owned by David Chang, this tiny Asian

3 Top advenTure sporTs desTinaTions ...

1

COASTEERING IN PEMBROKESHIRE This unusual activity was invented in Pembrokeshire, where a tradition of legging it over cliffs and jumping into the sea for fun, left, has existed for decades. Don a wetsuit, helmet and suitable footwear and careen your way around caves, lagoons, cliffs and rock pools. tyf.com/coasteering

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october/november 2012

2

CRAG CLIMBING IN CONNEMARA Feel the adrenaline coarse through your veins as you hang on to the sheer face of the Mweelrea Massif overlooking the stunning Killary Fjord. Hike into the crag and begin climbing and abseiling different routes at all levels of difficulty under the watchful eye of specialist instructors. delphimountainresort.com

restaurant boasts two Michelin stars, seats just twelve customers and offers a set tasting menu for dinner which usually lasts about ten courses.

The food is always delicious.

MY FAVOURITE EUROPEAN CHEFS ARE TRUE ARTISTS ...

I’m constantly inspired by the adventurous menus at Sketch in London, as conceived by chef Pierre Gagnaire. And if you’re looking for bold, imaginative cuisine, you’ve got to eat at Noma in Copenhagen. What chef René Redzepi brings to the table is incredible – it’s always a great experience, not least because I’m familiar with three of his current top staff, as they used to work for me at Mint.

EVERY DISH CAN BE A GOURMET ADVENTURE ... I had a dessert dressed on a table cloth at Alinea in Chicago by chef Grant Achatz himself. He’s so inventive – I love the way he looks at things.

I BECAME OBSESSED WITH EXTREME SPORTS IN ST LUCIA ...

I was commissioned to cook in a hotel there for a week this summer. And while I was there, I tried everything from scuba diving to paragliding as well as my new favourite, zip-lining, which is basically flying between forest tree tops on wires.

I CAN’T WAIT TO GO TO ... Japan.

I’m obsessed with learning all I can about Japanese cuisine.

I FEEL DESTINED TO VISIT ... South America. At some stage I’m planning to take a couple of months off, grab my ideal travel companion, my younger brother Colin, and head for Brazil and Argentina. From the food to the music to the energy of the people, I’m imagining it will be a sensory overload – but in the best way.

3

MOUNTAIN BIKING IN VERMONT The historic town of Grafton in Vermont is home to the Grafton Ponds Outdoor Center.

A fully comprehensive adventure activity destination, Grafton excels in its mountain biking offering. From flat to steep and single track to expansive, they’ve got some of the best riding in New England. graftonponds.com

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news people

What’s in my suitcase Best known for dressing Lady Gaga, Irish designer Sorcha ORaghallaigh’s show-stopping theatrical pieces have been showcased in Selfridges and Brown Thomas and have also graced the pages of Vogue. She gives Suzie Coen her definitive travel must-haves.

Jef Photog raPh by

f hahn

pInK HAnD-pAInTeD Top with floral bead embellishment, €1,600 made to order at sorchaoraghallaigh.com

wool-BlenD DRess by alexander McQueen, €1,625 at net-a-porter.com

FloweR sUnGlAsses by erdem ystad, €445 exclusively at cutlerandgross.com

CRoCHeT CARDIGAn by azzedine alaïa €1,456.02 at brownsfashion.com pInK sIlK oRCHID AnD CRYsTAleMBellIsHeD HeAD pIeCe with leather lining, €180 at sorchaoraghallaigh.com MAsCARA yves St Laurent faux Cils, €31.51, at arnotts, henry Street, Dublin 1

lAnVIn BRoGUes €515 at brown thomas, grafton Street, Dublin 2

AnTIQUe sIlVeR AnD CRYsTAl CRoss RInG €81 at merleogrady.com oRAnGe BlossoM ColoGne from Jo Malone, €92 at brown thomas, grafton Street, Dublin 2

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october/november 2012

elIZABeTH ARDen eIGHT HoUR CReAM €32 at all good pharmacies nationwide

ClInIQUe CITY BloCK spF 40 €20.50 at Debenhams, henry Street, Dublin 1

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A new Spa Experience awaits you at The Spa at The Shelbourne

Welcoming New Health Club Members this Autumn Relax, unwind and enjoy a new luxury spa and health club experience at The Shelbourne. A range of facilities will be available, including a luxurious spa with six treatment rooms, relaxation suite, manicure and pedicure area, swimming pool, thermal facilities, dance studio and state of the art gymnasium.

For full details on our spa and health club membership, please contact: +353 1 6634500

Fax: + 353 1 6616006 Website: www.shelbournespa.ie Email: rhi.dubbr.reservations@renaissancehotels.com The Spa at The Shelbourne, 27 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, Ireland.

news books

Shelf Life

From long-awaited memoirs to short stories, Bridget Hourican picks the new must-reads. » MEMOIR

Country Girl by Edna O’Brien (Faber & Faber, £20) out October 4.

The one we’ve all been waiting for – Edna O’Brien, in her 82nd year, finally publishes her memoirs. With most writers, especially ones as good as O’Brien, all the excitement of their lives happens on the page, but Edna escaped Co Clare via an elopement and a “Jane Eyre-type marriage”, had her first novel banned in Ireland, and took 1960s London by storm.

Is she going to dish the dirt on taking LSD with RD Laing, on what happened with Marlon Brando in her kitchen, and on the politician in her life? Probably not. The Sphinx will keep her secrets. We’ll all be reading anyway.

» FIctIOn

» tRavEl

Dear Life by World’s Alice Munro Best Travel (Chatto & Experiences Windus, (National £18.99) out Geographic, November 1. A £25), out new collection October 30. from one of the Lavish gift world’s greatest book with the writers usual dazzling and winner of the 2009 Man National Geographic photos, INSIDER Booker International Prize, plus locator maps, travel info, Michael Barry’s 50 Things often referred to as Canada’s insider tips and short essays to Do in Dublin, an Insider’s Chekhov because of the from acclaimed travel writers, Guide (DCBRS, €9.90) does what regionality, simplicity and including Bill Bryson, deceptive artlessness of Jan Morris and Andrew it says on the cover. Not much on her stories. Once more, McCarthy, see page 120. restaurants, shopping, etc., but as a she explores the lives This is a whistle-stop tour guide to the city’s attractions it of various inhabitants around the world, from is neat, well-illustrated and of the countryside and Thailand’s Chiang Mai to often surprising. towns around Lake Huron in Australia’s Uluru monolith to Ontario. Increasingly Munro, California’s Channel Islands, also now 81, is writing personal history, taking in medieval cities, national or autobiography in fictional mode, parks, ancient ruins, rain forests, revealing her life in ellipses. mountaintop villages …

: David Mitchell’s Cloud Atlas goes Check out the trend for big screen adaptations of well-known classics this season ber 9 in US) comes from director Hollywood with Tom Hanks (October 26); Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina (out Novem 21 in US, December 21 in Ireland).

Joe Wright; and Ang Lee takes on Yann Mantel’s Life of Pi (release November

Who’s reading what?

Wh

Author Mike McCormack shares his reading list.

Auth wHAT wHA ARe YoU ReADinG? I have just started Luminarium by Alex Shakar.

Lumina This is a novel with an irresistible premise – one irre day a man gets an email from his comatose brother and is propelled into a journey between life and jo death, the real and the dea virtual – I find it impossible vir to pass by a novel with that kind of a come-on. tha wHeRe ARe YoU ReADinG iT? In a garden by the sea outside Galway city. I’m trying to

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october/november 2012

stop the magpies from muscling in on the goldfinches and the collared doves … so far I’m fighting a losing battle. fAVoURiTe PLACe To VisiT? Out to Ballynahinch on the Clifden road. There’s a tiny little church out there, Our Lady of the Wayside, which, if you step inside, will bring you right back to Ireland’s great monastic past. besT book To TAke on HoLiDAYs? Take Fernando Pessoa’s The Book of Disquiet to Lisbon. A fragmented book about fatigue, monotony,

boredom, lassitude, ennui and renunciation – it might not sound like holiday reading but it is mysteriously thrilling and it will guide you through one of the loveliest cities in Europe. book YoU wisH YoU’D neVeR TAken on HoLiDAY? I do not know how many times I have packed Don Quixote and each time it has returned home with me unopened. But one day, one day …

Mike McCormack’s latest book of short stories, Forensic Songs, published by Lilliput is out now.

DUBLIN INSPIRES: GREAT PERFORMANCES Dublin has always inspired great events. George

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news destinAtions

On the Radar

There’s nothing like a trip to a Christmas market for getting into the festive mood.

Eoin Higgins picks the top five across Europe.

1

prague

Running daily in Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square, Prague’s Christmas markets have a certain magic about them when it comes to making that “Christmas feeling” tangible. A proper romantic destination at the best of times, Prague at Christmas has that added Old World Bohemian feel other cities simply can’t match. (December 1 to January 6)

A

ugust brings passion and heat to Santiago de Compostela, the Galician city best known as the destination for fervent pilgrims who walk the famous Camino de Santiago. However, the city is not just heavenly for blistered wayfarers; the less nimblefooted devotee will also discover a destination that’s worth a trek. Here are five reasons to make that journey.

2

Budapest

Temperatures drop towards the lower end of the thermometer during the festive season in Budapest, but the best-known Christmas market, located on Vörösmarty Square, is certainly somewhere to keep fingers and spirits toasty.

Expect plenty of warm comfort food, lashings of hot glühwein, cinnamon pastries and plenty of festive gewgaws and knick-knacks to take home with you. (November 18 to December 30)

3

Berlin

The Charlottenburg Castle market in Berlin has become increasingly popular as a winter travel destination since its early days in 2007. A fat stockingful of wonder awaits those who shop beneath the atmospheric lights of the castle and make friends with perhaps some of the friendliest stallholders in Europe.

Wonderful gift opportunities too.

(November 26 to December 31)

4

Vienna

The Christkindlmarkt on the square in front of Vienna’s Town Hall is the city’s most impressive, attracting millions of visitors to its festive wooden huts selling food, drinks and unique, arty gifts. On the periphery of the market itself, another highlight is the trees decorated with glowing lights shaped like festive hearts and gingerbread men. (November 17 to December 24)

5

Copenhagen

Set in the Tivoli Gardens amusement park, Copenhagen’s annual Christmas market is the quintessential winter wonderland.

Hundreds of Christmas trees and over half a million lights illuminate the stalls and the surrounding park.

There is an ice-skating rink but, more importantly, over 60 different vendors selling locally produced arts, crafts, decorations, glögg and addictive hot apple dumplings. (November 9 to December 28)

Aer Lingus flies frOm Dublin tO prAgue, budApest, berLin, viennA AnD copenhAgen DAily.

26 |

october/november 2012

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As a NetApp Star Partner, we’re committed to helping you architect a solution to accelerate your transition to the cloud. Please contact Appliance Technology on + 353 1 2958992 or email Info@apptech.ie. ©2012 NetApp. All rights reserved. Specifications are subject to change without notice. NetApp, the NetApp logo, and Go further, faster are trademarks or registered trademarks of NetApp, Inc. in the United States and/or other countries. All other brands or products are trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective holders and should be treated as such.

IntervIew

brilliant Shooting a film in his mother’s native Tipperary “meant the world” to actor Martin Sheen. He talks to Tony ClaytonLea about movies and his love of Ireland.

Photographs by Kevin Abosch.

F

or an actor who has worked with some of cinema’s bestknown directors, Martin Sheen is low-key and modest. In fact, considering this man has a star on Hollywood Boulevard’s Walk of Fame and has been the recipient of Golden Globes, Screen Actors Guild and Emmy awards, you could go so far as to say that Sheen is the epitome of humility.

There are, then, no signs of airs and graces when Cara meets up with him; Sheen was in Ireland a few months ago promoting Stella Days, a small movie with a big heart that focuses on a parish priest in 1950s rural Ireland, his love of cinema, and how a changing society brings about pivotal adjustments in the lives of various people. As Fr Daniel Barry, Sheen brings his customary sophistication to the role and, as a staunch Roman Catholic, a degree of gravitas. But there is an even more personal reason for Sheen leaving, albeit temporarily, Hollywood and its blockbusters – Stella Days is set in the locality in which Sheen’s Irish mother was born.

“My mother, Mary-Anne Phelan, was from Borrisokane,” explains Sheen, looking dapper and bright-eyed in a room on the

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october/november 2012

Sheen

first floor of Dublin’s Merrion Hotel. “She had long left Ireland before the time that the movie is set in – and she died in 1951 in America.”

The story of how Sheen became involved with Stella Days unfolds. “I was in Ireland in 2003, May 22, in order to celebrate what would have been her 100th birthday.

My mother had twelve pregnancies – ten survived, nine boys and one girl. We’d been losing the older members of the family, and in 2002 I lost the brother I had grown up closest to. I wanted to gather the family around for a celebration of life rather than grief, and so my son Ramon and I organised a family reunion in Borrisokane.

“We had a wonderful three-day celebration, and while I was there, a gent by the name of Michael Doorley presented me with a book, a memoir, of this priest who was revered in the community. I guess you could say he was an intellectual and film buff, and he was determined to bring a cinema theatre into northern Tipperary.”

Doorley had, apparently, no intention of wanting to turn his book into a movie, says Sheen. “He just gave it to me, a nice little book of local history, as a gift. I tucked it away, I recall, but at the same time, the

producer of Stella Days bought the rights to the book, and thought it would make a wonderful film. Even at the time, she had asked me would I be interested in being in it; then the screenplay came about, and then the director [Thaddeus O’Sullivan] came on board. Over the years we’d be in contact, updating each other as to how the funding for the movie was progressing. Finally, in 2010, it all came into place.”

Working on the movie in the locale of his mother’s birthplace, says Sheen, “meant the world to me. Before starting work on Stella Days, I’d just finished making The Way in Spain, with my son Emilio, and it culminates in Galicia. Now, my father was a Galician, and so between those two movies I reconnected with my parents. I’m happy to say that neither movie came about with any aforethought – they just evolved quite naturally.” It was an extraordinary revisitation, he says, of his parents’ heritage, in both Spain and Ireland. “I was just delighted. They were both incredibly satisfying to do.”

Of course, Sheen is at a time in his life – he celebrated his 72nd birthday on August 3 last – where he can dictate his workload, yet he gently bemoans the lack of

october/november 2012

| 29

IntervIew

Onscreen sheen Badlands (1973) Director Terrence Malick delivered a stunning feature movie debut that saw Sissy Spacek costarring alongside Sheen. As the self-absorbed, desensitised Kit Carruthers, Sheen, wrote Time magazine film critic Jay Cocks, “conveys Kit’s craziness so effectively because he does not ever act the madman; he is, instead, a disturbed man trying to act sane”. apocalypse now (1979) During this acclaimed Vietnam War movie by director Francis Ford Coppola, 36-year-old Sheen – who plays the central character of Captain Willard, who is on a mission to kill fellow US Army officer, Colonel Kurtz, played by Marlon Brando – suffered not only a heart attack but also a nervous breakdown. Recovering quickly, however, Sheen’s for-real portrayal nabbed him an American Movie Award for Best Actor. da (1988) In Ireland, at least, this remains one of Sheen’s most fondly remembered roles (as well as one of the few movies that Sheen himself recalls with pride) as he plays a New York-based writer returning to Ireland to bury his father. wall street (1987) Director Oliver Stone’s movie about predatory financial sharks features Sheen co-starring with his son, Charlie, as a conflicted workingclass father and son. With a nice comic touch, the real life fatherand-son pair revisited their Wall Street performances in the parody Hot Shots! Part Deux (1993). the west wing (1999-2006) Sheen has played various US presidents (actual and fictitious) throughout his career, but his best-known “President” must surely be Josiah “Jed” Bartlet in this long-running television series that garnered the actor a Golden Globe award as well as six Emmy nominations (for Best Actor in a Dramatic Series).

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october/november 2012

Sheen in his pivotal role as Captain Benjamin L. Willard, in Francis Ford Coppola’s Apocalypse Now.

substantial roles for men of his age in what he terms “big” movies.

“I have to be content with either doing small parts in big pictures – such as my role in the latest SpiderMan movie – or big parts in small pictures. I prefer to do the big parts, to be honest, because I still love to perform. I’m still healthy, too, so I’m lucky enough.” He admits to being extremely fortunate to have been able to enjoy a full career doing something he clearly loves – he has been acting since the early 1960s. “I have absolutely no regrets, and I’m very fortunate to continue to work.

It’s remarkable I’ve been able to do it, to continue to do it. I don’t have any prescription for it – it just happened that way. You can do it, I think, if you just stay alert. Or if your life is not separated from your career; if you’re able to unite all the aspects of your life …”

Sheen says that for many years he was “fragmented … I was an actor over here and father over there, a husband over there, and a brother over here … Everything was compartmentalised, and I was

pulled and pushed this way and that.” All this stopped, he says, over 30 years ago, when he experienced a religious conversion. This, he reveals, culminated in his return to Catholicism. “That really was a defining moment in my life, because it brought me to the centre of my life, and for me that meant I was no longer fragmented. From that point, I started to live a joyful, honest, free life, where I became my authentic self. All of us, no matter how we try to deny it, are looking for an authentic life.”

It all started, effectively, for Sheen in his late teens, in Dayton, Ohio. At this point, he was known by his birth name, Ramón Antonio Gerardo Estévez, but on his arrival in New York in 1959, he adopted a less obviously ethnic name in order to nab those all-important early acting parts. The first ten years of his acting career, he remembers, were in theatre (from off-off-Broadway to Broadway itself) and television (bit parts in shows such as The Defenders, Route 66).

“Those shows would sustain you,”

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“Some of the leSSer-profile movieS i’ve done – Specifically, one Such aS Da, which we made in ireland – are the oneS i’m moSt happy with.” explains Sheen, “because television paid better than theatre work. But as we started to have a larger family, the need to make more money increased, and so I started going to California to do some television shows – the likes of Mission: Impossible and Hawaii Five-O. Finally, in 1969 I got a movie job in Mexico, a long shoot for the film Catch-22, and the family then moved to Los Angeles. That’s when I started in movies more than anything else. And then I got the role in a movie called Badlands, which opened up a lot of possibilities.”

Badlands (1973) was the movie that placed Sheen firmly on the map;

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he went on to work with directors like Martin Scorsese, Francis Ford Coppola, Steven Spielberg and Oliver Stone. Of course, there are many movies (made by lesserknown directors) that Sheen views as less than workmanlike. He smiles ruefully at the memories of work done more out of financial necessity than for any notions of art.

“I’d say the majority of the movies I’ve done are less than great. In fact, I’d say most of them were pretty awful. They were in my life, though, because I had a big family, and I had to work to make a living. So I chose to do some very silly movies and play

At peace, nowadays Sheen enjoys a “less fragmented” life.

a lot of dumb parts, of which I felt little pride about. But at least I was able to continue to make a living as an actor. And every now and then a part would come along – something like Badlands is a once-in-a-lifetime role; a movie like Apocalypse Now is the same – where you work with a great director who happens to make a great movie. Apocalypse Now, for instance, was such an international success that it opened the door to a large range of possibilities. That said, some of the lesser-profile movies I’ve done – specifically, one such as Da, which we made in Ireland – are the ones I’m most happy with.”And besides, recalls Sheen, you’re not going to get quality parts all of the time. “Something that flexed the artistic muscles or lifted you up, or inspired you – they’re rare. I had some good ones along the way, but the really quality movies are rare, very rare indeed.”

Has he discovered, as he has got older, that the parts have improved because he specifically wants to do them? “Well, they’ve become less frequent, but as long as they’re low budget and you can accommodate the factors of time, place and the fee, then you’re fine.” There are, as yet, no further Irish movie projects on the way, but that isn’t going to prevent Sheen from visiting his spiritual home on a regular basis.

“My Irish heritage is very important to me,” he says. “I first came to Ireland in 1973 to make the film Catholics, and I’ve been coming back on a regular basis. I’m an Irish citizen, as well, and I have a close relationship with my family, my cousins in Borrisokane, Roscrea, Nenagh and Thurles … I can’t go anywhere where I don’t run into someone that is either related to or knows the family, so I feel quite at home here, honestly.”

More often than not, he says, he arrives in Ireland unannounced. He rents a car, makes no appointments and, he shrugs, “wherever I land is fine, and whomever I see is good.

Ireland is the most comfortable place on Earth for me.”

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october/november 2012

Road Warriors

Irish business executives are flying further afield than ever to sell Ireland Inc. Jamie Smyth talks to key individuals who are spurring on an export-led economic recovery. Photographs by Trevor Hart.

E

very morning before sunrise a small army of sleepy business executives, clutching laptops and briefcases, arrives at airports to catch flights abroad on a mission to sell Ireland Inc. In an age of increasing globalisation, travelling salesmen and women are taking to the air to sell Irish products across Europe, Asia and the US. The early morning starts are gruelling and time spent away from family is tough but these “road warriors” are spurring an export-led economic recovery that is helping Ireland overcome a four-year financial crisis.

“We expect exports to grow by about three per cent this year and that is in the face of a very difficult situation across Europe, which is the destination for 60 per cent of our exports,” says the chief executive of the Irish Exporters Association, John Whelan. “Food and drink, pharmaceuticals and technology are key sectors.” This year Irish exports are expected to be worth €176 billion, which is more than the country’s gross domestic product – the market value of all goods and services within the economy. They are a key factor that has helped Ireland differentiate itself from other peripheral countries in the Eurozone, such as Spain, Portugal and Greece, and return to international markets.

Marina Donohoe, head of education at Enterprise Ireland, a state agency that helps Irish companies sell overseas, says establishing a presence in overseas markets is vital for exporters to be successful.

Despite the development of video conferencing and email technology, personal meetings remain vitally important to cement business relationships, clinch deals and win new business overseas. Frank Keane, head of international business, at chartered accountants MKO Partners, believes that meeting people face to face is the only way to discover new business opportunities. He spends a lot of his time scouring the US, Asia and Europe for multinational companies considering setting up new operations in Ireland.

Many Irish exporters, particularly food and drink companies, invest millions of euro in advertising campaigns abroad that also help to boost Ireland’s profile.

“The Irish whiskey brand is so intimately connected to Ireland’s brand image that the industry’s marketing spend represents a big promotion job for Ireland’s brand image as well,” says Stephen Teeling, senior global marketing manager for Irish whiskey at US spirits group Beam, owner of the Cooley Distillery in Ireland and one of Ireland’s self-styled “business ambassadors”.

The ongoing difficulties in the Eurozone economy remain a real threat to the Irish and global economy. But all the hard work being done by Irish-based companies selling their products and services overseas and the commitment of their “ambassadors” on the ground is paying off and putting Ireland on the road to recovery.

Jamie Smyth is Ireland Correspondent with the Financial Times newspaper.

Marina Donohoe EnTERpRISE IRELand Bollywood blockbusters don’t often offer opportunities to sell Ireland Inc but head of education at Enterprise Ireland, Marina donohoe, managed to use this year’s premiere of the Indian movie Ek tha Tiger (once There Was a Tiger) to promote the country as a location for foreign students. “The movie was shot in Trinity College dublin and provided a unique opportunity for us to pitch Ireland to the Indian student market,” says donohoe, 43, who organised a series of marketing events around the movie’s premiere.

Life on the road is not easy, particularly in the developing world where flights times are long and multiple meetings must be crammed into just a few short days in a country.

But face-to-face contact is often critical to clinching deals. “If you are not physically in a market then you haven’t got a chance of winning the business. You have to be on people’s radar screens,” says donohoe. attracting foreign students to Ireland is a lucrative business. Last year 32,000 non-EU students came to Ireland to study, providing an estimated €500 million boost to the local economy. Enterprise Ireland has set a target of attracting 52,000 students by 2015.

“We organise trade missions, education fairs, workshops and online campaigns to grow the Education in Ireland brand. It is a fascinating job because you get to travel to so many different countries,” says donohoe, who spent a decade working for the agency in the US before taking up her current job. “I travel abroad most months and I love what I do. Ireland has a really great offering because it is English speaking, has a high quality education system with some world leading institutions and a very warm welcome for international students.”

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people

paddy Cosgrave ENTrEPrENEur Some 150 of the world’s most successful internet entrepreneurs will travel to Dublin in October for a pub crawl and two days of networking on the invitation of Paddy Cosgrave, a 29-year-old entrepreneur and the brainchild behind the F.ounders summit. In previous years the Dublin Web Summit, which is nicknamed “Davos for Geeks”, has hosted Jack Dorsey, founder of Twitter, Niklas Zennström, founder of Skype and Chad Hurley, co-founder of YouTube.

“F.ounders gives people a chance to hang out and spend some time together in an informal setting,” says Cosgrave who, like many internet gurus, founded his business in his bedroom before moving downstairs into the sitting room and finally into a proper office. “They all love coming to Dublin, which has a real charm about it.”

Cosgrave grew up on a farm in Co Wicklow but quickly put aside his wellington boots to pursue opportunities in Ireland’s booming internet industry. “While my dad was out milking the cows I was in the house becoming obsessed with computers and the internet.” He co-founded his first company called MiCandidate – an internet platform that helped politicians to sign up volunteers and raise funds – in 2009. A year later he set up F.ounders and the Dublin Web Summit, an event hosting 200 speakers and 3,000 attendees. Just back from a whirlwind tour of Europe promoting the summit, which took in 28 cities in 16 days, Cosgrave says Ireland’s reputation as a global hub for technology is stronger than ever.

“For our business it is really important to meet people on the road in a casual environment and establish networks that can grow over time. We held pub summits every night on our European tour for the hi-tech and startup community to come together and meet and create a buzz about coming to Dublin,” says Cosgrave. “We have all the top internet companies such as Google, Twitter and LinkedIn based here. It’s this cluster effect that will bring all the new big names to Dublin.”

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11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 6713922 The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of Temple Bar is one of Dublin’s liveliest pubs with a great mix of locals and tourists. Live Irish Traditional Music everyday makes the pub a magnet for those of us looking for a bit of craic and with a restaurant on the first floor.

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Finola o’Mahony TOUrISM IrELanD Finola O’Mahony worked at some of the biggest international marketing companies in the world before joining Tourism Ireland as head of Europe just over three years ago, when she embarked on her current mission to attract more European tourists to Ireland. “I worked with Gillette, Johnson & Johnson and E&J Gallo Winery and lived in France, Switzerland, the US and Japan. This has given me a great perspective on consumer tastes the world over,” says O’Mahony, who currently works out of London where she manages teams stretched across western Europe.

“It is really important to visit our offices and interact with our staff and get their points of view and draw on their ideas. This involves spending a lot of time on the road,” she says. “Being based in London is very convenient because of all the flight destinations to European cities.” Despite the poor headlines generated around the world

by Ireland’s economic crisis, O’Mahony says the Ireland brand remains strong and can contribute to the country’s recovery.

“Europeans know Ireland has been going through the wars but they like Ireland and they think it is better value for money now compared to a few years ago. People come here for the wonderful scenery and the wonderful people, not the economy,” she says. To help re-invigorate international tourism, next year Ireland will hold “The Gathering”, a year-long series of events aimed at attracting anyone with Irish blood or a connection to the country to visit.

“Tourism can play a part in the economic regeneration of the country,” says O’Mahony. “There are a couple of hundred thousand people working in the industry, which supports a host of indigenous businesses.”

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‘Roisin’s artworks are a great example of contemporary Irish art.’

H.E. Michael Collins, Ambassador of Ireland to the U.S.

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Loretta Brennan Glucksman, Chairman of the American Ireland Fund ‘...Inspires us to connect with the light within, creating more peace and joy in our lives.’

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Brian Collins ADApTIVEMOBIlE CEO Brian Collins, 48, played international basketball for Ireland before he became a high-flying business executive selling Irish technology to companies overseas.

“The technology sector is absolutely vital to Ireland’s recovery because, like the pharmaceutical sector, it is going from strength to strength,” says Collins, who spends a lot of his time flying to the US, Middle East and Europe to help clinch new deals.

AdaptiveMobile, which develops security to protect mobile phone networks, is one of a growing number of indigenous hi-tech companies that are expanding rapidly into international markets.

“Ireland has developed a great niche in the telecoms software sector and the US market, in particular, is very well disposed to doing business with Irish companies which have the right product,” he says. Collins travels a lot to the technology hubs along the west coast of the US, from Silicon Valley up to Seattle, which requires long flights that are not easy for someone just over two metres tall. “I do business class across the Atlantic but around Europe I do try to book emergency exits and row one.

Otherwise I have had to become a decent limbo dancer,” he says.

Ireland benefits from its reputation as the European hub for US technology giants such as Google, Microsoft and Intel, according to Collins, who cites Intel’s decision to invest in AdaptiveMobile as a real plus. But the presence of so many US multinationals in Dublin also brings challenges, particularly the “war to recruit the best talent” that leads to wage inflation. Collins says the technology sector can play its part in helping Ireland’s economy recover but that some cultural change is needed to help the industry to flourish. “We need a change of attitude in the country. We need to realise that not every venture can be a success. We must be able to tolerate failure as much as we embrace success.”

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J

ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

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Hooley Nights For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie ohnn oh nnie nn ie FFox’s ox’s ox ’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €48 per person.

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october/november 2012

Helen King BOrd BIA Head of consumer insight and innovation at the Irish Food Board, Helen King lived in New York state with her Irish parents until she was 16 years old. But her heart always belonged to Ireland where she returned every summer as a child to holiday with her mother’s family in Co Offaly. “I loved the people and the lifestyle and made an immediate connection with Ireland.

Being brought to pubs at the age of 16 was pretty good and shows how laid back Ireland [was] compared to the US,” says King, who works for the state agency in Ireland tasked with selling Irish food and drink abroad. She flies abroad a couple of times a month to explore new export markets and help Irish companies sell their products to consumers in the US, Asia and Africa.

“Food and drink is one of the hot sectors at the moment. It’s our largest indigenous industry, worth almost €9 billion per year and accounting for about an eighth of our overall exports.

The beef and dairy sectors hold great potential for growth,” says King. “I enjoy travelling, it fits my lifestyle. I’ve established a really good worldwide network of friends and contacts abroad who help my research into finding out consumer tastes abroad.”

This year King’s job saw her spend a few weeks living with families in Indonesia and Vietnam – two potential new export markets for Irish firms – to study how consumption of dairy products is taking off. “This was a fascinating experience because the families didn’t know anything about Ireland and they were blown away when I showed them photographs showing the beauty of our countryside,” says King, adding that Ireland’s green image really helps us when we are selling our products abroad.

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people

Frank keane MKO PARTNERS

PHOTOgRAPHEd BY TREvOR HART, ASSISTEd BY SYlvIE cORdENNER ANd ANdREw NUdINg. HAIR ANd MAKE-UP BY cHRISTINE lUcIgNANO. cAR cOURTESY OF ExEcUTIvE TAxIS, executivetaxis.ie. SHOT ON lOcATION AT dUBlIN AIRPORT, THE AER lINgUS gOld cIRclE lOUNgE ANd THE gIBSON HOTEl, dUBlIN, thegibsonhotel.ie.

Frank Keane, partner and head of international business at chartered accountants MKO Partners, spends a lot of his time scouring the US, Asia and Europe for multinational companies considering setting up new operations in Ireland. “I like to travel as it is only when meeting people face to face, in their backyard, that you get to see their story in full colour and you get to learn of opportunities where you can really help them,” he says.

MKO Partners makes its money by providing a range of advisory, audit and tax services to clients, which are setting up Irish subsidiaries. By organising seminars and events it also plays a key role in marketing Ireland as a hot location for foreign investment.

Keane says Ireland’s extensive network of double taxation agreements with other countries provides it with a unique selling point that will ensure it continues to attract foreign investment.

“The amount of trade taking place out of Ireland is incredible. Sentiment towards Ireland in the US has improved dramatically since the economic crisis began. There is a feeling Ireland has taken the pain and is now moving ahead,” says Keane, who recently completed a week-long business trip to the US that took in 25 meetings.

To unwind on foreign trips he chooses hotels with good gym facilities and those which are located close to interesting areas for jogging. “On my last trip I went for a great run along the Hudson River in New York,” he says.

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october/november 2012

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kitesurfing

HigH Flying The first Aer Lingus Kite Surf Pro takes place in west Mayo this October. But kitesurfing is just the start of the adventures along this wild Atlantic coast, as Pól Ó Conghaile discovers. Photographs by Peter Dybowski and David Sciora.

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kitesurfing

A

chill Island has some sense of theatre.

It’s been raining for days, with hulking duvets of cloud bellying down over the Atlantic Ocean. But the very morning I arrange to meet four kitesurfers on Keel beach, the clouds part like stage curtains. A blue sky is revealed, full of little fluffy clouds and blinding shards of sunshine. We’re in business.

“You see the colours here?” says François Colussi of Pure Magic, a lodge and activity centre set beneath the broody Slievemore Mountain nearby. “That’s why I love this place! Go to Dahab in Egypt, and you’ll get perfect conditions, but the landscape is plain. Here, you feel like you’re in National Geographic magazine. You can literally have dolphins jumping beside you.”

Alongside Colussi, Kieran Sammon and Eoin O’Connell are breaking out their kit, pumping inflatable edges on grass kept trim by the island’s sheep. They wax their boards. They pull on their harnesses.

They launch their kites into the wind and walk them towards the waves.

For a couple of hours, it’s as if there’s a flock of exotic birds cruising above Keel Bay. Kitesurfing does exactly what it says on the tin. It’s a whip-fast, adrenaline-fuelled sport, in which riders use kites of various specs and sizes to harness the power of the wind (in plentiful supply off the Atlantic Coast, as well as other locations such as Dublin Bay, Kerry and Wexford’s Hook Peninsula) to propel themselves across the water on kiteboards. There are various disciplines, ranging from course racing to wave-riding, but basically it involves a body-contorting combination of surfing, paragliding, windsurfing and gymnastics.

“This is half of one per cent of what is possible,” Colussi says, brushing a wing of wet, salty hair

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Previous pages, François Colussi makes waves; above, a rider gallops along Keel beach.

from his brow. His sky-blue Renault 4 van, decorated with go-faster strips and a graphic of a surfing sheep, is parked up on the stones. “It’s like driving without petrol.”

Today’s wind is not the best, he says. You could have fooled me – watching the guys go at it is like macho poetry-in-motion. At times, they seem to caress the waves, riding them like skateboarders. At others, they rocket along in straight lines (kitesurfers have been clocked doing over 50 knots). They’ll whip round, slicing crescents of spray off the lips of their waves, before leaping over the rim, or shooting back down to start all over again. And yes, at

times, they become croppers in the great Atlantic washing machine.

“We used to curse the wind, now we welcome it,” says Dea Birkett, an author who lives locally. She’s one of several passers-by drawn into the spectacle, stepping onto Keel’s smooth stones to watch the frenzy of kites flitting back and forth.

“Ten years ago we’d never heard of kitesurfing. Now we look out our windows and see the huge kites and think yippee! I think it’s fabulous that the natural assets of Achill, wind and waves and the world’s most beautiful beaches, are going to be used and seen around the world.”

Has she tried it? (Pure Magic

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Above, Eoin offers introductory lessons on O’Connell the flatter expanse of Keel Lake, launches his and there are Irish Kitesurfing kite; left, Association (IKSA) approved schools kitesurfer Pearse Williams gathers in Mayo, Dublin, Sligo, Kerry and momentum.

Wexford. The learning curve is quick, I’m told.) “Nope. But maybe I will when the champions arrive!”

The champions she’s talking about are the 36 kitesurfers heading west for the Aer Lingus Kite Surf Pro. The event, which will be held during a window period of October 19 to 28 (see kspworldtour.com), is Sea2Summit one of four stops Westport’s annual adventure on the waveriding World race (November 3) combines an Tour, and the ascent of Croagh Patrick with a calffirst international busting cycle and a short obstacle professional course thrown in for good kitesurfing event to measure. Entry costs €59pp; be held in Ireland. westportsea2summit.ie It’s a milestone for the sport (another is the

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october/november 2012

getting onboard Pro riders make kitesurfing look easy, but it can be a difficult and dangerous sport to master.

Lessons with a qualified instructor are essential. Pure Magic (puremagic.ie) offers a full range of lessons, from introductory sessions to full courses of four three-hour

sessions with certified instructors.

There’s no need to be super-fit, though learners should be able to swim. About 80 per cent of those who complete the course, it says, can then go on to purchase equipment and practise safely on their own.

kitesurfing

eAt At …

recent decision to include courseracing in the Rio 2016 Olympics).

Kitesurfing has come far, fast. Although pioneers were experimenting through the 1990s, commercial kites didn’t hit the market until just over a decade ago. The October event puts west Mayo and, by extension Ireland, right up there alongside worldclass kitesurfing destinations such as Maui in the US, Mauritius and Cascais in Portugal, the three other stops on the tour.

“It’s a different sport today,” says O’Connell, fresh from the waves at Keel. Along with Sammon, he’s a director at the championships. “At the beginning, it was like two lines attached to a plastic bag, and you

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did what you did to survive. It just tracked in the wind; there was no safety, no real launch ability on the water. If you crashed the kite you could have swum for three hours, in the jellyfish and the seaweed. Today, a weekend will get you to where it took us six months to get. It has evolved.”

Back at Pure Magic, where I met the boys tucking into a hearty breakfast of sausages, beans and fresh brioches, a little boy came over to show Colussi his brand new kite.

It was his birthday present. And he was beaming. “That’s the start of the trouble for your parents,” Colussi laughed.

Not that you have to attach yourself to a kite to enjoy Achill, of

Back at Pure Magic, François Colussi chills out.

Mulranny Park Hotel is the driving force behind the Gourmet Greenway, a trail of local food producers along the Great Western Greenway cycling trail, many of whom you’ll find on the menus in its Nephin Restaurant. Ollie O’Regan is the head chef, there are wonderful Atlantic views, and Clew Bay scallops should be your first order into the kitchen. (098 36 000; mulrannyparkhotel.ie) Overlooking Westport’s elegant Octagon (the town was built and laid out as an estate town for nearby Westport House), the Pantry & Corkscrew is one of the best casual dining options in a town and county that know a thing or two about casual dining. Pop in for lunch, dinner or just coffee and a slice of cake.

(098 26 977; facebook.com) After a day’s driving along the Connemara or west Mayo coast, it’s hard to resist Cronin’s sheebeen, below, in Rosbeg, Westport – a thatched pub nestled against the inner shores of Clew Bay. Crammed with pictures of Croagh Patrick, maps of the coastline and mementoes of great Irish rugby wins, the gregarious gastro-pub serves up a reliable mix of daily specials, with a particular focus on seafood. (098 26 528; croninssheebeen.com)

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Clockwise from left, a friendly local; overlooking atmospheric Keem Bay; Eoin O’Connell takes in the scenery.

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course. More than any other rocky outcrop, this Irish-speaking oasis can claim to be Ireland’s Adventure Island, with five Blue Flag beaches, rambling mountains, sheep-strewn country roads, deserted villages and wild coastal paths all opening themselves up to the visiting walker, cyclist, surfer or driver. Winter lacks the warmth and crowds of July and August, but it’s also when Achill’s wild remoteness comes into its own, and for serious hikers and surfers, that’s often more of a reward.

Achill has three looped cycling trails, including a 44km route from Keel to join the island’s famed Atlantic Drive. By car, bike or foot, this circuit is a short but spectacular symphony of coastline, churning waters and Irish heritage.

Watch out for a deserted village, for a castle once owned by Grace O’Malley (Ireland’s pirate queen), and for an eerie graveyard bearing two mass graves associated with the abandoned Achill to Westport railway line. Long before the railway opened in 1894, a prophecy was made that “carts on iron wheels” would carry coffins to Achill on their first and last journeys. And so it came to pass. When the line opened in 1894, its first carriages

bore the bodies of 32 local labourers drowned after capsizing in Clew Bay. In 1937, the last train to use the narrow-gauge line brought ten young islanders who died in a fire in Scotland back to their final resting place.

Thankfully, the latest chapter in the railway’s history is a happier one. Last year saw the opening of the Great Western Greenway, a 42km cycling trail following the railway’s route from Achill Sound to Westport. It’s a fairly flat cycle (though if fitness is an issue, I’d advise taking it section by section, rather than all in one burst), whisking the cyclist past some stunning views of the Curraun peninsula, Clew Bay and the Newport viaduct. My favourite rest stop is the stone-arched bridge over the Black Oak River ... bliss.

Clew Bay is west Mayo’s other adventure playground.

Mushrooming surf schools have made breaks like those at Carrowniskey accessible to all levels of surfers here, and you’ll find hundreds of sailboats flitting between the drumlins on a windy day. Kayaking, paddle-boarding and even sea safaris are other options.

(Did you know John Lennon once bought Dorinish Island for £1,700?

Above, fisherman Simon Sweeney at Belmullet cliffs, near Pigeon Rock; right, cycling along the Great Western Greenway.

five mayo must-sees …

1

Ballycroy NatioNal Park The quiet kid of Ireland’s national parks, Ballycroy’s location on the western seaboard in northwest Mayo is a study in raw remoteness. Its 11,000 hectares encompass one of the last intact active blanket bog systems in Western Europe, the Nephin Beg Mountains and the Scardaun Loughs, with a seasonal visitor centre in Ballycroy village. (ballycroynationalpark.ie) the Great WesterN GreeNWay Opened last year by Ireland’s Taoiseach, cyclist-in-chief and Mayo man Enda Kenny, it’s no exaggeration to say this 42km route has revitalised tourism in the region. Following the old WestportAchill railway line, the Greenway whisks cyclists away from traffic, past some

2

glorious Atlantic scenery, and is peppered with bridges, signage and sculptures that still feel fresh out of the box. The 13km stretch from Mulranny to Achill is unmissable. (greenway.ie) keem Bay, achill islaNd Achill Island has inspired its fair share of artists over the years, and one look at this dazzling Blue Flag Beach will give you an indication as to why. Paul Henry, the painter, was so taken by the island that he tore up his return train ticket and flung it into the sea. One of his most famous paintings, “Launching the Currach” (1910) is set in Keem Bay. (achilltourism.com) WestPort house Built on the dungeons of a castle once owned by pirate queen Grace O’Malley, Westport House has

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evolved over the centuries into a cracking theme park. A camp site, adventure park, extensive gardens, zorbing, archery, kayaking and paddle-boarding are just some of the activities on offer alongside tours of the house itself, making for one of the best family days out in the West.

Upcoming events include a Halloween Fest (October 27 to November 4). (westporthouse.ie) museum of couNtry life, castleBar The National Museum’s folk life collection documents a 100-year period stretching from the Famine to the 1950s. Exhibitions cover the trades of the blacksmith, tinker and schoolmaster, as well as customs like Lent, wakes and harvest, amongst other fashions, traditions and communities. (museum.ie)

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sleep at …

I didn’t, until I took a trip around the bay with Adventure Islands. My nose almost looked like Lennon’s, too, after a chiselling by the wind.)

Or perhaps you’re an angler and would prefer a gentler interaction with the waters and the wild of west Mayo? If so, there’s no better starting point than Ballina, the so-called Salmon Capital of Ireland. Bisected by the River Moy, Ballina hosts an annual salmon festival every July (ballinasalmonfestival.ie). The Moy itself is Ireland’s most prolific game fishery – so book those fly-fishing beats well in advance.

Finally, there is Croagh Patrick.

Rising like a volcano over the town of Westport, this was where St Patrick reputedly fasted for 40 days.

It remains the scene of an annual pilgrimage on the last Sunday in July (Reek Sunday), when more ardent devotees climb the mountain in bare feet. Loose scree leading up to

the 762m summit doesn’t make this easy, of course – wear sturdy boots if you’re hoping to engage in any other activities once you descend.

In fact, wear sturdy boots if you’re hoping to descend, fullstop.

Croagh Patrick is regularly ensconced d iin cloud l d but when the views are clear from its summit, they’re breathtaking.

If you make it there this month, look over Clew Bay towards Achill Island. Legend has it that St Patrick took time out from his fast on the mountain to do the same thing, blessing Keem Bay. I wonder what he’d have made of the kitesurfers?

Top, Mayo boasts a long history of marine pursuits; above, a statue of St Patrick looks out from Downpatrick Head.

enture Kingdom/Adventure Islands: The WesT on The Web ... Mayo: Adv st: adventurewest.ie; Clew bay bike hire: theadventureislands.com; Adventure We e.ie nn: siul@eircom.net; Coláiste UIsCe: uisc clewbayoutdoors.ie; Tomás Mac Lochlái 56 |

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If you’re looking for a spot of pampering after being blown about the Atlantic, look no further than knockranny House Hotel, a sumptuous manor house hotel. Set on a hill overlooking Westport, Croagh Patrick and Clew Bay, rooms are luxurious without being OTT, there’s an award-winning chef at work in La Fougère restaurant, and Spa Salveo combines a lengthy treatment list with a mosaic-tiled vitality pool and a suite of steam rooms, monsoon showers and a herbal sauna. (098 28 600; khh.ie) The Irish-speaking Mullet Peninsula is amongst the leastvisited corners of Ireland, which is a sshame for local tourism, but an absolute blessing for intrepid travellers. From walks on erris Head to kitesurfing in elly Bay, from the 6,000-year-old Céide fields to golf links at Carne, it’s a true hidden gem. The Broadhaven Bay Hotel offers a three-star base in Belmullet, with a pool, bar, restaurant and competitive special offers. (097 20 600; broadhavenbay.com) broadhavenbay.com Sitting under Slievemore Si Mountain at the heart of Achill Mo Island, pure Magic offers budget Isla accommodation in rooms themed acco to evoke the great kitesurfing regions of the world. Think regi Morocco, Brazil and Hawaii – with Mo ap pool room, restaurant, live music, crackling fires and freshly mu baked brioches thrown in to boot.

There’s a stunning view over keel lake (where kitesurfing lessons take place) too. From €35 per night including breakfast. (085 243 9782; puremagic.ie/achill) Pure Magic

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Sloping Off Escape the Alpine hordes by heading for the slopes of the Jura mountains on the French-Swiss border. Nicola Iseard discovers a scenic haven for skiing and snowshoeing.

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L

ess than five hours ago we were stepping onto a plane in Dublin, now we are stepping off a mountain cable car in France. Below us a sea of thick pine forest tumbles into the valley and above us white-topped peaks puff out their chests; a lone pair of skiers is the only sign of life. Serene doesn’t cover it. But then, that’s the Jura mountains all over – a world apart from the fast-paced city of Geneva just 15 minutes away.

This is a peaceful region on the French-Swiss border, encompassing vast stretches of wilderness (Jura means “forest”), which make it a haven for walkers, mountain bikers and skiers. Despite having three ski areas – Lélex-Crozet, where we are, Mijoux-La Faucille and Menthières – with 50km of lift-served runs and 140km of cross-country trails, the Monts Jura resort is relatively undiscovered by the hordes of skiers who descend upon the Alps every year. For my husband, Christian, and I looking for a long weekend’s ski jaunt, it is ideal. It may not have the altitude of some of the big boy resorts (it reaches 1,680m, half the height of Les Arcs), but what the Jura lacks in height it more than makes up for with views; as we board the chairlift Previous pages, up to Monthoisey, the summit of Faucille and Menthières). From the serenity of the the Lélex-Crozet ski area, the views Monthoisey, we head down Le Jura Mountains. across the valley to Lake Geneva, Rhodos (piste I), a long, winding ing This page, above, and beyond to the mighty Mont red bordered by a snowpark breathtaking views. Right, Blanc, are breathtaking. On a clear halfway down. Tempted as I day, and viewed from the right place, Nicola sets out. am to hit one of the kickers – or you can even see the Matterhorn. jumps – with a 360, I figure I But it is time to put the camera should probably wait until I am away; we have some skiing to do. properly warmed up (and get Lélex-Crozet is the largest of have actually learnt to do a planning the ski areas, with 15 lifts and 360 – beginners, that’s a The Mont Jura tourism 26 pistes of every colour. mid-air complete turn, website has info on all the local Though, with the majority by the way). ski resorts, including piste maps and being cruisy reds and blues, As we follow the it’s best suited to beginner run down through weather forecasts. It also has listings and intermediate skiers, the trees, it dawns of accommodation, restaurants, rather than riders looking on me that although shops, and plenty of great for adrenaline-triggering it hasn’t snowed in après-ski activities. blacks and challenging over a week, the slopes monts-jura.com. off-piste (as are Mijoux-La are in pristine condition.

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eat at …

Even sections of the off-piste are skiable; every now and then we duck past the piste poles for a few turns amongst the pines. The Jura has a unique microclimate – you’ll find snow here at just 915m, unlike slopes at the same altitude in most areas of the Alps. And if at any point during the winter the snow-clouds just don’t play ball, Monts Jura has 33 hectares of artificial snow – so you’re guaranteed skiing.

There’ll be no need for the snow cannons just yet though; after a few more runs, it starts snowing –

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lightly, but enough that I have to stop mid-run to put on my goggles.

Time for lunch. We opt for the rustic La Catheline restaurant, which serves a stellar onion soup for under €8 and has a terrace that is buzzing with couples and families, despite the weather. Tummies full, we get back on our skis and follow Les Lys (piste M), a green trail that twists and turns through the forest, before giving way to a steep black that fires you out at the Lelex base station. Legs suitably burning, we decide to call it a day, and hop in our

Ski bliss, above – the Jura has a unique microclimate with snow at just 915m.

If you’re skiing at Lélex-Crozet, there are several good mountain restaurants to choose from. For views head to the Panoramic restaurant (think big glass windows overlooking the valley), which is perched at the top of the Crozet gondola and serves hearty Jurassian cuisine as well as snacks such as hamburgers and chips.

For something more rustic try La Catheline – the onion soup is a winner. It’s also the place to stop mid-morning or afternoon for a vin chaud.

No chalet girl on hand to provide afternoon tea? Get your cake-fix from La Baguette Magique in Crozet. It is the only shop in the village and serves yummy, calorific cakes and pastries – just the ticket after a hard day’s ski.

For supper, shamwari restaurant at Jiva Hill Park Hotel has a range of set menus as well as an à la carte menu, serving up exquisite French dishes – such as polenta with Beaufort cheese, and beef sirloin picatta – supervised by chef Sullivan Breton.

The Bois joly hotel (+33 450 410 196; boisjoly.com) has its own cosy restaurant serving everything from meat fondue to omelette au jambon, alongside fixed menus.

La Mainaz (+33 450 413 110; la-mainaz.com) also has its own wood-panelled restaurant, headed by chef François Part, where you can refuel on dishes such as Jurassian trout and mushroom cassolette.

For traditional Alpine fare away from the hotels, head for Le refuge de Florimont (+33 450 418 859; restaurant-paysde-gex.net), situated on the mountain pass road towards Paris and Dijon.

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5 Best runs

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Les Lys (piste M) A long, meandering green trail that winds through the forest from the top of the Lélex-Crozet cable car to the bottom, giving way to a steep black that will be sure to get the legs working.

Les aneMones (piste n) Beginning at the Monthoisey look-out point (bring your camera), this run starts as a gentle green piste and turns into a long, cruisy red that cuts around the back of the mountain and is often deserted – perfect for an early-morning run.

Les pins (piste a) A short, unpisted black run that – depending on the time of year – can have fun moguls to play on.

Les rhodos (piste i) This red run starts at the Monthoisey summit, and turns into the red Les Eillets piste – home to the snowpark. Just the place to work on your spins (or spills).

Les gentianes (piste k) If the snowpark has given you a taste for adrenaline, head to this easy blue which starts at the Monthoisey summit. It takes you past the boardercross course, which features turns, jumps and drops, and is a lot of fun.

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Above, luxury and one heck of a spa, at the Jiva Hill Park Hotel.

rental car to the hotel, a ten-minute drive away.

We are staying at the Jiva Hill Park Hotel, on a private 70-acre estate near Crozet, with 28 rooms and six private lodges. With deep pile carpets, subtle downlighting and funky furnishings, the hotel epitomises après-ski luxury. Okay, so it isn’t the cheapest of hotels, but we figure that with all the money we are saving on our Jura ski pass (which is around half the price of many mainstream French resorts), it is worth pushing the boat out for a

few nights. Plus, it has one of heck of a spa, and that’s priceless after a day on the slopes.

I’m not sure if it is the pool, sauna, hammam or my full-body aromatherapy massage, but by dinner my achy post-ski limbs feel as good as new. Jiva Hill’s restaurant, Shamwari, is one of the finest in the Jura. Tempted as we are by the five-course set menu, we settle for the scallops with walnut wine followed by the orange and Grand Marnier soufflé from the à la carte menu. Both are divine but, with the

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Clockwise from bottom left, the perfect ski resort has as much to offer off the slopes as on – wildlife, views, après ski and plenty of character. Opposite, right, postcard pretty chalet in the mountains.

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mains averaging around £25, we agree that for our remaining nights we will sample the charming, more affordable restaurants in nearby Gex. The beauty of staying at Jiva Hill is that if you fancy a day off the slopes you are spoilt for choice; the hotel has a nine-hole golf course, two tennis courts, even a man-made lake for water skiing and wakeboarding (in summer). Off-site, you can go dog sledding nearby or – for a real adrenaline-kick – ride a luge. I loved sledding as a kid, but a proper racingstyle sled, down a proper man-made chute? That is something else.

The luge track is located at the Col de la Faucille mountain pass, a short drive from Jiva Hill. We climb into the sledge, Christian in the driver’s seat (it has levers to control the speed). It slowly chugs up to the top of the track and I feel my hands

start to sweat. Turns out it goes rather high. Three, two, one and we are off, speeding full pelt 1,365m to the bottom, twists and turns and screams all the way. And I thought skiing steeps got the pulse racing.

Best of all, we are the only ones there, so we go back up again, and a third time. I can’t remember the last time I laughed so much.

That night, we catch a taxi to Gex and up, via the historic mountain pass road towards Paris and Dijon, to Le Refuge de Florimont. It’s a laid-back, traditionally decorated restaurant that is popular with European royalty (evident from the photographs that line the wall) who come here to pay homage to its proprietor, a famous mountain guide, and to dine on traditional mountain classics such as tartiflette, raclette and fondue. We opt for the

wshoeing experience costs SNOWSHOEING ... A half-day guided sno ; monts-jura-rando.fr). from €13.90 per person (+33 674 677 994 4 OTHER PLACES TO SKI THIS WINTER

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FOR FAMILIES ...

Val d’Isère in France ticks all the family-friendly boxes: a charming town, which is easily explored on foot; 300km of pistes that cater for all levels and are easily accessed from your hotel/apartment, great après-ski, including a cinema, ice-skating rink and new sports centre.

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Book it Crystal Ski (01 433 1010; crystalski.ie) offers seven nights’ selfcatering in a two-bed apartment at the Jardins & Les Verdets Apartments from €887 per adult, €336 per child (second child free), including flights from Dublin to Geneva and transfers, from January 12 2013.

FOR GROUPS ...

Groups looking for a goodvalue, lively ski holiday couldn’t coul do any better than Arinsal in Andorra.

Andorr With its link to neighbouring Pal, the ski area boasts 65km of snow-reliable snow pistes. In town, Arinsal has dozens of bars, most of which double as eateries, ideal for selfcatering ca groups. There are also lots of après-ski activities to keep groups gr amused.

Book Bo it Direct Ski (1890 201 205; 20 directski.com) offers seven nights’ ni self-catering at the Daina Apartments Ap (sleeping up to six) from fr €443pp, including flights from Dublin Du to Toulouse and transfers.

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FOR OFF-PISTE HOUNDS ...

If you’re looking for powder stashes and endless off-piste terrain to play on, Davos in Switzerland is your resort. The options are huge, from short routes off the back of the Jakobshorn and Rinerhorn to all-day ski circuits to Arosa and Lenzerheide.

Book it ActivityBreaks.com (048 9094 1671; activitybreaks.com) offers four nights’ B&B at Hotel Schatzalp from €450pp, including a free ski pass. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Zurich daily.

FOR TRADITION ...

The picturesque Tyrolean village of Soll is one of the most atmospheric in Austria, set around a splendid onion-domed church, with a friendly village atmosphere. Its slopes also boast Austria’s biggest snowmaking installation – so you can expect great onpiste conditions whatever the weather.

Book it Topflight (01 240 1700; topflight. ie) offers seven nights on a half board basis at the three star Hotel Modlinger from €789pp, including flights from Dublin.

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illustration by graham corcoran/grahamcorcoran.com

sLeeP at ...

sun-dappled forests and wide open latter, along with a bottle of local pastures – shedding hats, scarves Savoie wine, both of which are and layers as we go – until we delicious. reach the summit of Mont Rond at On our final afternoon, there is only one thing left to do: set off into 1,534m. The view catches my breath: the wilds to experience the dramatic a sweeping 360° panorama of peaks, jutting up through a sea of landscapes for which the cloud. Below us a fox Jura is renowned. We big darts off into the consider getting thrill distance, above a kitted up in some Head to the multimedia paraglider swoops Nordic gear for dome at the Col de La Faucille through the air. a cross-country As we start jaunt on a where the robot Coaster takes our descent, I section of the passengers on a virtual skiing, realise how much 400km Grande paragliding, mountain-biking and I have cooled Traversée du kayaking trip – complete with off and I am Jura (Great Jura wind and music effects. about to whip out Trail), which cuts €5 per person. an extra layer when its way across the Jura Francis points to a small over ice-covered summits wooden building about 45m and through crystal forests and away. A sauna? I wonder hopefully. sleepy villages. But instead we put Not quite. It is a shepherd’s chalet, on some snowshoes for a three-hour romp through the forests of Mijoux- which Francis has keys to. He lights candles and we sit around an La Faucille, following a section of the Balcon du Léman walking path old wooden table warming up on “shepherd’s moonshine”, an eyewhich loops around Lake Geneva. wateringly strong spirit made from Our guide, Francis André, leads the the roots of an alpine herb. way. It is our first time snowshoeing As we leave the chalet and and we soon find our rhythm. Every continue our descent I feel rather now and then Francis, who doesn’t overwhelmed, by the beauty of speak a word of English (but luckily the landscape and the remoteness his co-guide does), points out deer tracks or the age of a pine tree, some of it all. It could have been the moonshine. Or perhaps it was just of which are over 250 years old. We gently gain altitude, passing through the Jura.

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The plush jiva hill Park hotel (+33 450 284 848; jivahill.com) if you’re looking to splash out. A chic chalet, its design has more in common with an African game lodge. Choose from one of the deluxe bedrooms or the six private lodges (sleeping up to four), which boast private Jacuzzis. Doubles from €213 per night, B&B. Tight budget? Try Bois joly (+33 450 410 196; boisjoly.com), a cosy hotel located in the centre of Gex. The accommodation is simple but comfortable and is just a two-minute walk from the Lélex-Crozet cable car. Doubles from €58, room only.

Or, for somewhere in between, check out La Mainaz (+33 450 413 110; la-mainaz.com), a charming chalet-style hotel, which is also in Gex and has 21 airy rooms with mountain views, as well as a sauna, steam room and cosy lounge. Doubles from €91, half-board.

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You can spend funfilled hours experiencing the quests in the energetic Boda Borg, suitable for adults and children over 7 yrs. The Boda Borg is divided into 15 Quests which contain up to 47 individual challenges. To survive the Quests you will need to employ skills you may not even be aware you have.

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Allow yourself to be taken back in time on the Lough Key Experience as you are guided through the old 19th century servant tunnels that once belonged to Rockingham House. You will be blown away by the views from the refurbished Moylurg Viewing Tower and experience Ireland’s only Tree Canopy Walk as it gently rises above the forest floor.

This is a selfguided tour which allows you get lost in time and a tour that can be enjoyed at your own pace. Guided Tours are also available at any time of the year for groups of at least 15 people.

The Lough Key Experience is fully wheelchair accessible and buggy/pram accessible.

The Beautiful Moylurg Room, boasting stunning views of Lough Key, is an ideal room for a private event, meeting or corporate launches. Revive & Re-energise in The Lakeside Café, where you can enjoy the gourmet Fairtrade Coffee & Tea with some homemade muffins, cookies and savoury snacks overlooking the beautiful vista of Castle Island & Lough Key.

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nice

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Nice

the beautiful

It may be France’s fifth largest city but Nice feels like a relaxing resort when you’re meandering through its historic streets. On a long stay, award-winning author and history buff Emma Donoghue fell in love with its sunny charm. Photographs by Matthew Thompson.

nice

I

don’t know what I did to deserve it, in this life or the last, but I’ve recently spent ten months in Nice with my family as part of a university exchange. In most cities, the bus from the airport is an embarrassment, as it chugs through the grottiest back-quarters. Not so Nice, where our visitors start letting out little squeals of delight the minute we turn onto the Promenade des Anglais (English Walk) with its giant palms, orange and lemon trees, and the glittering Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) opening out before them like a ballerina spreading her arms. As for me, I always watch out for the spot where Isadora Duncan’s red Chinese shawl got wound around the wheel of the Amilcar Grand Sport in which a young mechanic was taking her for a test-drive, that warm September evening in 1927 ...

But Nice has a longer pedigree than that. The school our kids go to (free and excellent, as you’d expect of French education) is just around the corner from an archaeological site called Terra Amata, where a band of elephant hunters – Homo erectus, upright hominids and possibly our ancestors – made very Previous pages, sea view at Neptune Plage in front of the famed Hotel Le Negresco and, this page, right, divers at Castel Plage soak up the sun. Below, writer Emma Donoghue at home in Nice.

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Top, Port de Nice where the vast yachts of the megarich moor, above, local lad Guiseppe Garibaldi atop his plinth in Place Garibaldi.

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early use of fire about 300,000 years ago and may have indulged in a little cannibalism, but only for ritual purposes. For someone like me city who needs history like meat strolling needs salt, this is all heaven.

Nice is a particularly nice city At noon every day, in which to perambulate. Smart when a loud cannon phone addicts can download any startles me, I remember of a number of city walking apps for Scottish visitor Sir Thomas Coventryguidance, whereas those of the More, who is said to have old school may find it more instituted this daily boom interesting to just stroll in 1861 as a reminder to his and discover. wife to get his lunch on.

october/november 2012

It was the Greeks of Marseilles who founded the city, three and a half centuries before Christ, and named it for Nike, the winged goddess of victory who heaps rewards on winners. And Nice is full of winners, such as the wellheeled Anglos with their villas on the exclusive lush promontory of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, just east of town. (The famous Promenade des Anglais is named for the English, not because they lifted a hand to build it but because they commissioned the starving locals

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nice

GettinG out of town

to do it as a make-work project when the orange harvest failed in 1822.) Other winners include those Russian mafia millionaires who are widely rumoured to own most of the massive modern yachts permanently moored in the harbour. But even the leathery near-nudists who lie basking on the seaside rocks on the 300 sunny days per year – or the students out dancing in bars that only open at

4am – all know that life doesn’t get much better than this.

Although the name lends itself to bland puns – a shop called So Nice, a gym called Fit Nice, a night club called Nice Cube, and the slogan “Nice is Nice and Yes You Cannes”, which I’d imagine took the tourist board many long lunches to come up with – there’s nothing bland about this city. Whether you visit for its

Clockwise from above, left, the town buzzes with late-night spots like those at Rue Barillerie; style city – 82-year-old Guy Leymarie on the Promenade; the beautiful curve of the Bais des Anges.

ed by its French (Provençal) and italian Nice cUiSiNe ... Nice’s food is characteris rgette s – which shouldn’t be missed – are cou (Ligurian) influences. Local specialitie the famous salade Niçoise. flower fritters, pissaladière and of course

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I’d recommend the quick bus ride to the lovely village of Villefranchesur-Mer, which has the 16th-century Chapelle Saint-Pierre, beautifully decorated with fishing motifs by Jean Cocteau in 1957 – just a stroll from a gentle, fine-pebbled beach with sheltered water. Buses take you inland from Nice to exquisite perched villages such as eze or St-Paul-de-Vence (where the fondation Maeght shows Calders, Giacomettis, Chagals and Mirós in futuristic buildings and green gardens). The Alps are more like an hour and a half away, which means you really can ski in the morning and plunge into the sea in the afternoon, if you come in a cross-over month like April. Train connections are excellent – Monaco, cannes and Antibes are all very close, plus bargain-hunting paradise at the market in Ventimiglia, just over the border into Italy – and huge ferries leave for corsica every day.

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clockwise from top left, queueing for a post-swim shower, regular bather Dominique Wahl; lookout post for the lifeguards; local girl Lola LePrince; unmatchable fruits de mer at café de Turin and the café’s busy staff eladie and Gregory.

eat at ...

Hotel Negresco

The century-old, legendary-anddoesn’t-it-know-it Hotel Negresco charges €7 for a tarte tatin, but for that you get to sit in a café decorated like a carousel, tour the extraordinary collection of art in the lobbies, and use what may possibly be the most elegant toilets in the world. (37 Promenade des Anglais, +33 493 166 400; hotel-negresco-nice.com) Our favourite is the Café de turin, where bored staff, and their ancestors, have been dishing up oysters and other sea-life for more than a century, and for kids they serve ice cream in a plastic penguin that you can take home afterwards. (5 Place Garibaldi, +33 493 622 952; cafedeturin.fr) La Zucca Magica, on the port, is a homey, award-winning vegetarian restaurant with a set menu only: surrender to the whim of the chef. (4 bis, Quai Papacino, +33 493 562 527)

Christmas fair (complete with non-stop puppet shows, a fake snowy forest and the biggest Ferris wheel I’ve ever seen), in February for its wildly over-the-top carnival, or pretty much anytime except in the hot and crowded high summer, Nice will not bore you. Surprisingly large – the fifth biggest city in France, after Paris, Marseille, Lyon and Toulouse – it can

nonetheless feel like a charming resort when you’re having ice cream by the beach, listening to the sensuous crunch of the stones rolling under the waves. Speaking of ice cream, I’d recommend Fenocchio Glacier in the old town (at 2 Place Rossetti and 6 Rue de la Poissonerie), and particularly their chocolate-ginger and rhubarb flavours, though if you’re braver than me you could try

Enjoying the shade – and the latest news – at Place Garibaldi.

La Zucca Magica

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colline du château – a free lift shoots you up through a cliff to a verdant park with shaded spots to enjoy the view.

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the olive, poppy, thyme or cactus.

Nice has more museums and galleries than almost anywhere else but Paris. A free lift shoots you up through a cliff (the Colline du Château – Hill of the Castle) to a verdant park with a fabulous multistorey waterfall that’s been cooling visitors with its mist since 1885.

Taxes are spent lavishly on public art and entertainment; there seems to be free festivity of some kind (from string quartets to try-your-hand-at-medievalcombat) laid on every weekend.

The highlight of the year – and perhaps the most memorable time to visit – is Carnaval, a fortnight in February when gigantic moving puppets of everyone from Zinedine Zidane to Princess Kate tour the streets. For the Bataille des Fleurs (Flower Battle), with acrobats on extraordinary floats tossing flowers at you, it’s worth shelling out for a seat in the stands, as it improves your chances of snatching a great armful of mimosa and orchids.

I’ve been devouring Hilary

Spurling’s prize-winning biography of Matisse (who lived for decades in the yellow building at the east end of the Cours Saleya flower market, and is buried up the hill in Cimiez, where a lovely Musée Matisse now sits between a Roman arena and an olive grove). She remarks at one point that Nice has decoration rather than architecture. The average old building sports bold colours (yellow, pink, green, terracotta), crumbling Belle Époque plaster reliefs and trompe-l’oeil paintwork. (Our four-year-old has become expert at pointing at any suspiciously flatlooking representation of a window or a rosette and roaring “trompel’oeil, it’s trying to trick my eye!”)

Even the most modern buildings have a playfully decorative quality to them; our favourite is a section of the public library in the form of a gigantic cube on a human neck.

Between the modern art gallery and the national theatre sits a multicoloured Loch Ness Monster by Niki de Saint Phalle, one of the many artists (Dufy, Chagall, Bonnard,

Top, left, Promenade des Anglais at sundown when everyone comes out to play, and above, right, in the heat of the day.

Top, right, heady stuff – one of Emma’s favourite modern buildings, the public library.

Monet, Rodin) in whose works the city is rich.

Along the five kilometres of the Promenade des Anglais, walkers, cyclists, toddlers on scooters and skilful skateboarders and rollerbladers share the paths. The picturesque Vieille Ville (old town), with its skinny streets decorated with dangling washing, offers cheap pleasures (try the local favourite socca, a chickpea pancake) and free ones such as night-time music in little Place Rossetti (by the baroque Cathedral of Saint Réparate). Try the gorgeously gilt Opera House for last-minute tickets: we’ve seen operas

by Wagner, Puccini and Verdi (with a real live horse).

Of course any spot so popular as

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a base for exploring the Côte d’Azur will be expensive; a simple café crème could set you back €4. Don’t bring a car; parking is a nightmare and you can travel across the city by tram and bus, and far into the countryside, all for €1. Or try one of the vélos bleus for a euro a day (though the wheels do occasionally drop off; as a student explained to me, late at night they simply kick every rack they pass until a bike pops out for them to borrow).

Nice may be classically French in some ways – the dog-fouled paths, the aromatic patisseries (our favourite is Patîsserie Cappa in Place Garibaldi – try the palmier à la framboise, a wickedly buttery double square pastry sandwiched together with raspberry jam). But for much of its history it’s been ... not so much staunchly independent as undecided. Part of the Genoese League, then repeatedly overrun by the Saracens, allied with the Franco-Ottoman army (despite Marathon Pisa, in the hands of the the gallantry of local laundress Counts of Provence, then Catherine Segurane, who is Men & woMen the Counts of Savoy, claimed to have mooned the The nice-cannes Marathon then conquered by Turkish invaders, repulsing runs on November 4. Starting on them in both senses), later the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, taken for France by Napoleon, and culminating on the Boulevard handed back to the King of de la Croisette in Cannes, Sardinia ... whew! Nice finally it’s a scenic challenge. joined France for good only in (marathon06.com) 1860, over the furious objections of local boy Giuseppe Garibaldi, who swore the vote was rigged – and Italy did grab it briefly, one more time, in the middle of the Second World War. So Nice is in many ways Italian; the restaurant staples are pasta and pizza (try the white ones, based on crème fraiche rather than tomato sauce). If you can’t tell if locals are speaking French or Italian, it just might be Niçois (aka Niçard, Nissart or Nizzardo), an Occitan sub-dialect enjoying a revival. The French sometimes complain that Nice is more cosmopolitan than anything else, because foreigners have been infesting it ever since novelist Tobias Smollett kick-started the tourist industry, when his 41 enthusiastic letters home were published in 1766. But that’s the very quality that makes it so relaxing for the rest of us.

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illustration by anne smith/annesmith.net

nice

breakfast niçoise, left, and above, the little lighthouse at the end of the sea wall.

The Talk of the Town, a play by Emma Donoghue about the life and works of Maeve Brennan, runs to October 10 at the Project Arts Centre as part of the 2012 Dublin Theatre Festival.

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True Colours Autumn is always alluring in New England, as tree-covered hillsides put on an unrivalled show of blazing colour. Kim Knox Beckius recommends a route that takes in some of the best spots for leaf gazing.

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new england

F

rom the time buds sprout in springtime until summer’s lush, green phase, New England’s maples, elms, oaks and birches are players in a masquerade.

Without getting all scientific, there’s solar-powered chemistry at work inside their leaves, and as autumn temperatures plummet and daylight hours fade, they simply can’t produce their green camouflage – chlorophyll – like they could on endless sunny days. By autumn, then, when the leaves’ true underlying colours are revealed, and hillsides are sprinkled in confetti shades, the party really gets underway.

“Fall fanatics” know New England is an unrivalled place to observe leaves unmasking their fiery identities, but no one can predict the timing of this natural phenomenon. Abandon any obsession with seeing colours at their peak and you’ll better appreciate everything a day in New England can offer during unpredictable, yet always alluring, autumn.

Set out from Boston during early autumn and you’re bound

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to encounter stunning scenes as you journey to renowned foliage hot spots in this six-state region, including New Hampshire’s White Mountains, the Green Mountains of Vermont and the Berkshires in western Massachusetts.

First, though, spend a day or two exploring Boston’s worldPrevious page, class attractions and colourful, typical New Revolutionary War-era history.

England scenery New England’s largest – and in autumn, in America’s most Irish – city has more New Hampshire.

This page, above, pubs than you could frequent in a week (including the bar that inspired Stockbridge mainstreet, and television’s long-running Cheers), right, the “new” but, in a morning or afternoon, you State House in can check off many Boston mustBeacon Hill, Boston. sees. Walk the 4km Freedom Trail and relive dramatic events from America’s farm formative chapter. fresh Or, board a Second Just off the Mohawk Trail in World War-era Phillipston, Massachusetts, you amphibious can pick apples or pumpkins, sip vehicle on a fresh-pressed cider, take a hayride popular Duck or sample delicious goodies at Tour and see Red apple Farm (+1 978 249 Boston’s highlights – and changing 6763; redapplefarm.com). leaves – from land and sea.

It’s a three-hour trip to North Conway, north out of Boston on the I-95, then on Route 16 through New Hampshire’s scenic Lakes Region. But you’ll want to spend a leisurely day detouring to explore the picture-perfect towns of Wolfeboro, Moultonborough and Sandwich on Lake Winnipesaukee’s eastern shore. One of New England’s quirkiest shopping experiences awaits on Route 25 in Moultonborough, where the Old Country Store has sold eclectic wares since 1781. Don’t miss the “museum” upstairs.

Tourists have escaped to the White Mountains since the early 1800s and modern travellers can still rest their heads at grand hotels such as the Omni Mount Washington Resort, which is classic but far from stodgy. It is home to New England’s

STAY AT ...

In autumn many New England inns demand a minimum twonight stay. Book in advance and focus on three bases — North Conway, New Hampshire; Woodstock, Vermont; and Williamstown, Massachusetts.

SPLURGE From 1901 to 1902, more than 300 labourers built Robert Paterson a Tudor-style mansion inspired by his mother’s ancestral home in Scotland.

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MIDPRICE Choose a storybook Victorian farmhouse set amid Old-style grandeur most spectacular zipline course – the New Hampshire. Settled in 1768, 16 wooded acres and you won’t at McIndoe Falls, Bretton Woods Canopy Tour – an Woodstock is a photographer’s Vermont. have to venture any farther exhilarating way to leaf peep. Less paradise each autumn. Antique than the gracious front adventurous travellers enjoy Conway homes ring the town green. Middle porch for spectacular Scenic Railroad’s nostalgic trips or Covered Bridge is in the heart of Tree foliagescapes. The climbing to New England’s highest the village. And Woodstock has Top view Maple Leaf Inn point aboard an historic marvel, the an unequalled five bells cast at the Months before peaks are (5890 Route 12, Mount Washington Cog Railway.

Revolutionary War patriot Paul snow-coated, ski areas fire up Barnard, VT, +1 The Kancamagus Highway, Revere’s foundry: see one near First chairlifts, giving foliage fanatics 802 234 5342; Route 112, cuts a circuitous path Congregational Church’s entrance, mapleleafinn. views of changing hues at multiple from Conway to Lincoln through another behind the Woodstock com) is a gem altitudes. New Hampshire’s New Hampshire’s White Mountain Inn. A quick skip south to Reading, with seven longest sky ride is one of many National Forest. “The Kanc” is and you’ll bump into fellow foliage guest rooms – adventures at Loon widely regarded as New England’s paparazzi at Vermont’s most most with working (loonmtn.com). ultimate fall foliage drive. Although photographed farm, Jenne Farm, fireplaces – and a it is just 55 km-long, its scenic which even appeared in Forrest pillow library to ensure viewing points, hiking trails and Gump. East of Woodstock, Quechee blissful sleep. B&B from $240. landmarks such as Albany Covered Gorge doesn’t quite merit its “Grand BUDGET Want to step Bridge and the Russell Colbath Canyon of the East” nickname, but outside your cosy room on House inspire travellers to make this glacier-carved chasm through a crisp morn and feast your frequent stops. which the Ottauquechee River spills eyes on a view that’s To reach Woodstock, Vermont, is photogenic when riverbanks glow been deemed one of in about two hours, continue on golden and orange. the world’s best from a Route 112 to Route 118 South, then You can reach Williamstown, hotel or inn? Stay at The turn west on Route 4 in Canaan, Massachusetts, in just over two 1785 Inn & Restaurant (3582 White Mountain Highway, s ’ ton Bos ue, North Conway, NH, +1 603 Log rles Cha lt by Irish immigrant 356 9025; the1785inn.com), for AMERICA’S OLDEST BALLPARK ... Bui for Wi-Fi and Yankee hospitality. fenwaypark.com) has been the backdrop beloved Fenway park (+1 617 226 6666; B&B from $99.

e a tour or better still see a game. heartbreak and jubilation since 1912. Tak

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new england

illustration by anne smith/annesmith.net

eaT aT ...

hours, but temptations to linger are everywhere along the drive west on Route 4, then south on Route 7 through Vermont’s Green Mountain National Forest. Savour real maple syrup’s sweetness inside an authentic sugarhouse in Mendon, where Sugar & Spice serves breakfast and lunch. In Bennington, find five covered bridges and then admire panoramic views from Vermont’s tallest structure: the Bennington Battle Monument.

Spend your days in the Berkshires visiting art museums, wineries, historic homes and orchards; driving to the summit of iconic Mount Greylock; hiking to Bash Bish Falls or taking inspiration from the National Shrine of the Divine Mercy and its picturesque 350 acres.

In Stockbridge the enduring Red Lion Inn is a charming place to dine

on dishes featuring locally harvested ingredients.

The return trip to Boston, along New England’s oldest scenic byway, will test your driving and take your breath away. The Mohawk Trail – Route 2 – traces a path first blazed

by Native Americans. You’ll want to pause at the famous hairpin turn to gaze at rolling hills and valleys shining with autumn’s glittery hues.

Before you head back to Boston press a few leaves. Science can’t entirely account for the beauty of each specimen, and your souvenirs will remind you, as New England’s most-loved poet Robert Frost observed that: “Nothing gold can stay”.

SPlURge When Simon Pearce moved operations from Ireland to an old woollen mill in Quechee, Vermont, in 1981, his production facility became a popular place to observe glassblowers and potters at work, to shop – and to dine!

Simon Pearce Restaurant (1760 Quechee Main Street, Quechee, +1 802 295 1470; simonpearce.com), overlooks an Ottauquechee River waterfall. Cuisine is simply prepared American fare with Irish and global influences and devotion to Vermont-grown ingredients – artfully served on sleek, elegant, handcrafted Simon Pearce dinnerware.

MIdPRICe When you’re craving comfort food and fresh beer after a day in the outdoors, Moat Mountain Smokehouse & Brewing Company (3378 White Mountain Highway, North Conway, +1 603 356 6381; moatmountain.com) delivers

aer lingus flies from Dublin to Boston daily.

tt , useetts hus ach ts of Shelburne Falls, Massac BRIDGE OF BEAUTY ... In 1929, residen it’s trolley bridge into a linear garden, and transformed an abandoned, 122-metre ). ge of Flowers (bridgeofflowersmass.org been blooming ever since. Visit The Brid 88 |

october/november 2012

on both fronts. Pork and other meats are smoked on-site, barbecue sauces are homemade, pizzas are wood-grilled, and the beer’s brewed here, too. Sample seasonal ales like Moat Oktoberfest or mainstays like chocolaty Moat Square Tail Stout.

BUdgeT Inside Country Mischief, a shop in a former boys’ boarding school so packed with antiques and gifts, you’ll fall over when you learn they have a second location nearby, there’s a cute eatery: the Mischievous Chef (10 Baldwinville Road, Templeton, +1 978 939 5460; countrymischief.com).

Breakfast and lunch are available Wednesday through Saturday, brunch Sunday. You can dine fireside, but you’ll really have a story if you choose the table in what was once the students’ three-seat outhouse.

before you leave for home, pick up some gourmet souvenirs at Deluca’s market in boston, above.

PETERS

BARS & RESTAURANTS

THE MUCKY DUCK Celbridge, Co. Kildare 01 6288340 / muckyduck.ie

Situated in the heart of Celbridge, Co. Kildare Guinness Time began here in the Guinness family home with the birth of Arthur Guinness in 1725. So began a wonderful piece of Irish history. With that heritage it's no surprise that the Mucky Duck has earned a reputation for great food and drink. A must visit for fans of the "Black Stuff "!

John Farrington Antiques FINE ANTIQUE

AND

CONTEMPORARY JEWELS

THE COUNTY CLUB Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8259220 / countyclub.ie

Located less than 30 minutes from Dublin city centre The County Club has long been a favourite with customers looking for great f ood in comfortable surroundings. The County Club's daily carvery is a particular favourite while we are also renowned for our wonderful Irish steaks.

AN SI BIN

Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8250556 / sibin.ie With it's traditional thatched roof An Sibin is a landmark in the heart of the village of Dunshaughlin. A blend of new world com

STEAK ON THE STONE

Our signature Steak on the Stone special is a must have, a unique dining experience

which is available on all our a la carte menus.

O ’ FL A H E RT Y S / B RA D Y ’S B AR Navan, Co. Meath 046 9022810 / oflahertys.ie Whether you visit O'Flaherty's for our delicious carvery, a night out with friends or to catch live sport on our big sc screens you are sure to have a memorable time and why not have a nightcap around the roaring fire in Brady's Bar! Sláinte.

THE WILTON Cork City

021 4344454 / www.wiltonpub.ie Long established on Leeside with fine food served all day in the lounge bar and upstairs in our Loft Restaurant.

W The Wilton is a must on your next visit to Cork. Don't forget to leave room for our famous homemade, brown bread ice cream!

Visit us Onli ne

32 DRURY STREET, DUBLIN 2.

TEL: +353-1-6791899 Email: john@johnfarringtonantiques.com www.johnfarringtonantiques.com

Henry J Lyons Architects Helping To Deliver Your Vision

Architecture Commercial Interiors Workplace Design New Build Commercial Office Existing Building Refurbishment Conservation Education Hotel & Resort Design Leisure & Sport Retail Manufacturing Masterplanning & Urban Design Building Selection Advice Due Diligence & Project Monitoring

Henry J Lyons Architects Responsible Collaborative Creative Design Dublin Office: Richard Doorly/Denise Morrin +353 1 888 3333 Cork Office: Pat Hogan +353 21 422 2002 www.hjlyons.com

Inspiring Change in Construction Through our 90 year history we’ve seen more than one economic recession. Guess what. We’re still here.

Stronger than ever. Maybe it’s because our clients return to us time after time. Maybe it’s our delivery record. Maybe it’s our client focused flexible approach to design and construction. Maybe it’s our experience across multiple sectors or the creative strength of our hardworking and dedicated staff. We’re not entirely sure what the secret to our success is but we do like to think we’re doing something right.

Providing a uniquely tailored professional service to our clients has served us well over the years, in good times and in bad. Just look at our client list, they can’t all be wrong.

Talk to us about your project, large or small. You’ll find we have a solution that suits your needs.

eBay . Google . PayPal . MasterCard . Bank of Ireland . Bord Gais Energy . MacQuarie Bank . Metlife . Department of Education Dechert Solicitors . Walkers Global . KPMG . Convention Centre Dublin . Rabobank . Central Bank of Ireland . Tullow Oil Alkermes . IFSC . Medical Council of Ireland . RBS . Irish Times . Northern Trust . Courts Service . Nationwide UK Ireland NAMA . Royal College of Surgeons . RHA . Chartered Accountants Ireland . Commission for Energy Regulation . Ulster Bank DEPFA Bank . Jazz Pharma . SAP . EirGrid . HSE . Avoca Handweavers . Abbott . Quest . RBS . Riot Games . UBM . Kerry Group . An Post Linkedin . Bank of New York Mellon . United Drug . IBM . Cisco . Irish League of Credit Unions . PricewaterhouseCoopers

 tHE ParLOur, where you feel as if you are invited into someone’s home, has no drink menus, just cocktails of the day that taste incredible. Grab yourself a Chesterfield sofa, good friends and delicious drinks. PS, There is no name on the door! (the-parlour.de)

 BOutIQuES are hard to find in Frankfurt; you have to make your way down the back streets off the beaten track. Some of my personal favourites are Kleidoskop, Blumor, Jada, Buressi, Frida, Hayashi and Vanilla.

An Insider’s Guide to

frankfurt It may host one of the ten busiest airports in the world, but Frankfurt has more than a flight connection to offer visitors. Sarah O’Keeffe shares some of the city’s secrets.

 The taunuS tHErMaL BatHS are enjoyed by many visitors to Bad Homburg.

With indoor and outdoor pools, relaxing areas, gym and beauty rooms to choose from, a day at the spa flies by in utter bliss.

A €109 package includes a day pass to the spa, massages and facial, topped off with a glass of Prosecco. (taunus-therme.de)

 In completely darkened rooms at the , you are guided in small groups by blind gu people through everyday situations peo such as crossing a road, touching su walls, picking fruit and ordering a wa drink in a bar. It is a reversal of roles: drin blind people are ambassadors of a bl culture without images. Bookings cu must be made in advance and mus the tour can take place in English. ((dialogmuseum.de)

 A hidden gem housed in the famous Die Welle building, the GarGantua restaurant has a lovely secluded terrace. Lunch is great value Monday to Friday: two courses, for around €10, of high quality, delicious food. There is also a good range of wines. (gargantua.de)

 Step back into 400 years of rural life at the open-air museum in HESSEn Park.

Walk around furnished houses, permanent exhibitions and see presentations on crafts and farming methods. On nearly 150 acres and in more than 100 historic buildings, you can experience how life really was in the olden days. (hessenpark.de)

october/november 2012 oc

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BEING THERE

 Along the Rhine you will find the beautiful old castle, BURG SCHWARZENSTEIN, tucked away on the top of a hill, looking over its own vineyard. Its Gourmet restaurant is ranked in the Top 50 in Germany and its Burgrestaurant serves regional specialties and Rheingau wines. The hotel has 39 rooms and suites spread across the Parkresidenz, the historic castle and the guest house. (burg-schwarzenstein.de)  The main stretch of high street shopping in Frankfurt, ZEIL, has shops such as H&M, Zara and Mango, etc. As for Shopping centres, the latest addition, “My Zeil” (myzeil.de) contains a gym and many eateries providing a bird’s eye view of the Frankfurt skyline. It also has one of the longest escalators in Germany – 46 metres!

 If you are looking for a pop-up book scene of Germany, RUEDESHEIM – about one hour by train from Frankfurt – is a must. It has natural beauty, castles, monuments and many vineyards, with wine tasting at every corner. Take the cable car across the vineyards, breathe in the views then walk back down. It’s so worth it! (ruedesheim.de)

 It feels like a James Bond movie at ROOMERS cocktail bar, in a five-star hotel near the main train station. You never know who you might meet among the international, stylish crowd. If you like great cocktails (a bit pricey, mind) and want to soak up a fashionable atmosphere, this is where you should go. (roomers.eu)

 Ge Germans really ally know kn how ho to celebrate lebrat and hardly a weekend goes by in Frankfurt without some sort of a FEST taking place.

These events are social gatherings where locals and visitors meet to eat, drink and dance. To find out what is on when you are in town, see: frankfurt-tourismus.de.

g Chulalongkorn RAMA V, named after Thai kin My favourite Thai restaurant is it uences to Thailand and saving infl rn ste We ht ug bro ing hav who is credited with e) necessary. ((ramav-frankfurt.d is on ati erv res a so sy bu ays from colonisation. Alw  Ab About 50 minutes outside Frank Frankfurt by car, WERTHEIM VILLAGE is an outlet centre VILL where you will find bargains wher from labels such as Michael Kors, Versace and Tommy Hilfiger. A “Shopping Express” Hilfige bus ru runs from Frankfurt train station to Wertheim Village, Monday to Saturday.

Villag (wert wertheimvillage.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Frankfurt daily.

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MORE ABOUT SARAH "My love affair with Germany began when I was 18 years old when I spent the summer working in a hotel in Schwangau, south Germany. I returned to Germany, summer after summer for the following five years. I graduated from Trinity College in Dublin with a degree in German and having worked in both Stockholm and Dublin, I grabbed an opportunity to work in Frankfurt six years ago. I am president of the Irish Business Network Germany for the Southwest region and we run events in Frankfurt for Irish people in Germany and, of course, for German people who have a strong interest in Ireland. (irishbusinessnetwork.de)

world’s largest collection of art, artifacts and ephemera relating to the Great Hunger that devastated Ireland from 1845 to 1852. This exceptional museum makes visible the interconnections between Irish and diasporic history, culture and memory.

LILIAN LUCY DAVIDSON ARHA (1879-1954) Burying the Child Oil on canvas 24 x 30 in

Q u i n n i p i a c U n i ve r s i t y

|

3 0 1 1 W h i t n e y Ave n u e H a m d e n , C T

|

(203) 582 8655

w w w. i g h m . o r g

O C T O B E R

Museum is home to the

O P E N I N G

Ireland’s Great Hunger

2 0 1 2

IRELAND'S GREAT HUNGER MUSEUM

being there

n ... i s r U O h 48

Stockholm High design and home comforts await visitors to Sweden’s capital city. Kate O’Dowd advises on how to make the most of a weekend trip.

C

entral Stockholm is made up of 14 islands, each one (generally) forming a natural district. Bridges keep the city connected, so it’s not a case of “bring your togs” (though, some do); it’s just about deciding which one to visit first.

Gamla Stan is the Old Town, the tourist hub and the chocolate-box-pretty image of Stockholm that graces postcards. To the east is Skeppsholmen, which houses virtually all your Stockholm museum-going in one neat package. Djürgarden, the city’s favourite green space, can be accessed by vintage tram from the beautiful Strandvågan. Going south to Södermalm, you enter one of the city’s most desirable residential areas, teeming with cool cafés, beautiful young families and trendy twenty-somethings. Östermalm and Normalm share an island. The former is the most up-market area in town, all A-list hangouts, international fashion flagships and majestic homes; the latter is the business district. Kungsholmen is little shouted about, but is becoming increasingly trendy, with artists and loft-living urbanites escaping there from the rocketing rents of Östermalm and Södermalm.

SLeeP At …

Not No surprisingly, the beautiful beau hotels here are very beautiful beau indeed. Expect high design, with the home comforts comf that come from catering cate to harsh winters. hiP One of the city’s coolest coole hotels, berns hotel ho (Nåckströmsgatan 8, +46 8566 32200; berns. se) se attracts celebrities and low-key chicsters.

Rooms Ro are understated and modern and its array of nightclub options

Ett Hem

means you’re straight in with the in-crowd. Rooms from 1,590SEK (€190), with breakfast. hOMeLY A beautiful private home in chic Östermalm, ett hem (Sköldungagatan 2, +46 820 0590; etthemstockholm.se), Swedish for “at home”, has just been renovated to take guests and offers rental by the room, the floor or the whole house. Luxury, here, is helping yourself from the fridge and taking their dog for a walk. Rooms from 3,800SEK (€455), with breakfast.

a must. tseeing itinerary, the Stockholm Card is sigh full a g nin plan ’re you If ...

D CAR THE lic -day card), you’ll get unlimited free pub five a on sed (ba day per 3) (€2 SEK 190 For free sightseeing tours and more. transport, admission to 80 attractions; stockholm.com/en/stockholmcard.

Buy online for a 10 per cent discount: visit 94 |

october/november 2012

hAnDY If, on the other hand, you like to be left to your own devices, Story hotel (Riddargatan 6, +46 8545 03940; storyhotels.com) offers a range of eccentrically named (and artistically decorated) rooms – like the Super Squeeze; deduce what you will – at reasonable prices. Book online and then check in electronically to receive your room number and key code.

Rooms from 1,190SEK (€145), with breakfast.

SHOP AT …

Stockholmers love their shopping, particularly when indulging in the fruits ts of home-grown talent. And why wouldn’t they?

DESIGN Modernity (Sibyllegatan 6, +46 820 8025; modernity.se) has the crème de la crème of 20th century classic furniture – it supplies museum-quality pieces to collectors as well as stocking a choice jewellery collection and a good range of smaller, more affordable decor items, to give your IKEA dresser some kudos. Sibyllegatan is a good design destination, overall, with lots of interesting stores, up and down.

FOOD While you’re there, nip across to Östermalm Saluhall, the ultimate indoor food market, with stalls selling fish and seafood, cheeses, Swedish meats, chocolates and anything else you might hanker after. It houses lots of little restaurants too (seafood, sambos, bistros) that you’ll genuinely want to sit

The Terrace

Pontus!

EAT AT …

Stockholm’s foodie scene is really coming into its own as the reputation of Scandinavian cuisine grows. It’s not cheap to eat here, but choose wisely and you’re in for a treat.

FANCY Pontus! (Brunnsgatan 1, +46 8545 27300; pontusfrithiof.com), is one of the most lauded restaurants

by Pontus Frithiof, a true culinary royal in Stockholm. The three-storey super-eatery combines a seafood bar, a cocktail lounge with Asian bites and a traditional dining room with a very modern, fresh menu.

FUN A modern bistro by another local celeb, Mathias Dahlgren, Matbaren (Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, +46 8679 3584; mathiasdahlgren.com) is the informal dining option at the Grand Hotel – but this ain’t no canteen; there’s a Michelin star – with innovative dishes in a relaxed setting.

FIKA Gilda’s Rum (Skånegatan 79, facebook.com/gildasrum) is a favourite with local creatives for its quirky decor, friendly staff and delicious coffee-break (that’s fika) offerings, just off the very cool Nytorget square.

Main picture, a city of islands, Stockholm is a collection of independent locales; above, view the impressive wreckage at the Vasa Museum.

Östermalm Sa

ADDITIoNAL PHoToGRAPHS By ANTHoNy WooDS

DRINK AT …

There’s no real pub scene in Stockholm, but hip café-style bars are all over the place.

PARTY Little Quarter, at Deep Southern-style restaurant Marie Laveau (Hornsgatan 66, +46 8668 8500; marielaveau.se) is a hub for boho-chic hedonists, serving up killer cocktails and the best live and electronic music in Södermalm.

CHILL The Terrace (Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2, +46 822 3160; lydmar.com), a library-style bar in the desirably boutique Lydmar Hotel, was made for settling in early to enjoy the warm atmosphere good food and great wines.

luhall

and eatt at – ie, i the pl place do doesn’t n’t smell ell like a butcher’s shop, as so many food halls do.

FASHION Rodebjer (Regeringsgatan 50, +46 8206 614; rodebjer.com) is the home ground of Swedish womenswear designer Carin Rodebjer, a burgeoning favourite among the international fashion community for her characteristically minimal Scandinavian aesthetic.

GO SEE …

Cultural attractions are typically Cul very well run in Stockholm.

PHOTOGRAPHY Fotografiska (Stadsgårdshamnen 22, +46 8509 (Sta 00500; fotografiska.eu) is as 0050 popular for its waterfront views, popu as it is for its exhibitions – the late Swedish master Christer Strömholm’s CHR, is on view until St November 25.

No HISTORY A must-see is the Vasa Museum (Galärvarvsvägen 14, Mu +46 8519 54800; vasamuseet. +4 se), which holds an awe-inspiring se warship that sank in Stockholm wa harbour in 1628. Raised in 1961, its splendour, after three centuries under splendo water, is magnificent.

FILM Murder mystery geeks will be well acquainted with the seedier side of Stockholm, through its depictions in Stieg Larsson’s Millennium Trilogy – the Stockholm City Museum runs Saturday walking tours (in English) of Södermalm as it is mapped out in the books, for 120SEK (€15) per person.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Stockholm Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun.

october/november 2012

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A GIFT WITH A DIFFERENCE At Ireland’s Crown we give you the unique opportunity to buy your very own piece of Malin Head, at the most northerly point of the emerald isle.

Buy a square foot of Ireland for yourself or a loved one as the perfect present for only $49.99.

Reconnect with your ancestral homeland through owning what is rightly yours. All the while, you will help to keep the natural beauty of the land unspoilt, and preserve it for future generations to enjoy.

In your gift package you will receive official and unique certification, legal documentation, original artwork by Irish artists, comprehensive land maps, high quality photographs and a boxed stone from the land.

Ireland is calling you home, buy your piece of Ireland’s Crown now.

A PIECE OF IRELAND IS THE PERFECT PRESENT, FOR WHEN THE ORIGINAL COUNTS WWW.IRELANDSCROWN.COM

E: info@IrelandsCrown.com W: www.IrelandsCrown.com T: +44 028437 67342 Ireland’s Crown LTD, 42a Oldtown Rd, Annalong, Co. Down, Northern Ireland BT34 4RN @IrelandsCrown facebook.com/irelandscrown42a

InFlight

For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including To Rome With Love (pictured), turn to page 102.

october/november 2012

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WelcomeAboard For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you.

Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on.

We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ... ... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith.

Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh.

Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed.

It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off.

Devices PermitteD ✔ at any time: Devices powered by micro battery cells

and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices PermitteD ● in flight but not During taxi/take-off/

initial climb/aPProach lanDing: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).

Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys.

Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode

98 |

october/november 2012

selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected.

Devices ProhibiteD ✘ at all times: Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat Food and bar service

seirbhís bia agus beáir

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip.

Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

news, music and movies

nuacht, ceol agus scannáin

On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.

Tá suil

h Aer Lingus. t flight. Thank you for choosing to fly wit san plea and able fort com a e hav you e We hop le hAer Lingus. agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal ach mh nea tait h dac por com s tura íonn againn go mb

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis.

GLéAsAnnA A bhFuIL ✔ ceAdAIthe I GcónAí: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.

GLéAsAnnA Atá ● ceAdAIthe I rIth nA heItILte, Ach nAch

bhFuIL ceAdAIthe Le LInn don eItLeán bheIth AG GLuAIseAcht Ar tALAmh/AG éIrí de thALAmh/ AG tAbhAIrt FAoIn dreApAdh tosAIGh/ AG dírIú Ar thuIrLInGt/ AG tuIrLInGt: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri.

Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe).

Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLéAsAnnA A bhFuIL ✘ cosc IomLán orthu: Gléasanna a tharchuireann

minicíocht raidió d’aon turas.

Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha.

Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta.

Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí.

Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse.

Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

Smoking In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights.

Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. tobAc De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh.

Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.

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AerLingusNews

Cork-based staff Complete triathlon in aid of marymount hospiCe

From left to right, Captain Kevin Daunt and cabin crew member, Edel O’Donovan.

Over €76,000 raised in special cOllectiOn fOr Unicef syria appeal A special collection, which took place on board all Aer Lingus flights for one week during the month of August, raised €76,972 for UNICEF Ireland’s Emergency Appeal for the children of Syria.

The monies raised will help to support the lives of vulnerable Syrian children in providing life-saving interventions such as safe water, essential vaccines and child protection measures, along with educational support. We would like to take this opportunity to thank our customers for their generous support.

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On 25 August, a group of 20 Cork based Aer Lingus staff participated in the “Escape from Spike Island Triathlon”, in aid of Marymount Hospice in Cork.

The relay event consisted of a 1500m swim, 20km cycle and a 10km run.

Thankfully all teams finished the race, but a special word of congratulations goes to cabin crew member Louise O’Shea, who finished third overall in the individual event.

Over €18,000 has been raised for this very worthy cause, with all proceeds going directly to The Marymount Hospice.

We would like to take this opportunity to congratulate all those who participated in the charitable event. A special thank you to our passengers who contributed so generously to the collections that took place on board flights in the week preceding the event.

AerLingusNews Aer Lingus introduces new PArking oPtions on aerlingus.com Aer Lingus has teamed up with the Dublin Airport Authority (DAA) to offer its customers Long Term and Short Term parking options at Dublin Airport.

Aer Lingus customers can now purchase the Car Parking products online in three different ways: º Via a link on the Aer Lingus homepage on aerlingus.com º During the booking process on aerlingus.com a new option will appear on the Travel Essentials page º When a booking has been completed, an option will be available on the booking confirmation page

HigH SPeed wireLeSS ConneCTiviTy in THe Cabin iS CoMing Soon

Aer Lingus’ long haul fleet will be fitted with high speed wireless internet capability over the winter period. By the end of March 2013, all Aer Lingus customers on transatlantic services will be able to access the internet in-flight. Customers will have a choice of accessing the web via the In-flight Entertainment System or via their own laptop, tablets or other personal electronic devices. It is anticipated that wireless internet access will be rolled out across the entire Aer Lingus short haul fleet in 2014.

Booking online for the Long Term Car Park is the perfect option for anyone planning a longer trip abroad. º Express Long Term Red Car Park from €6.50 per day or part thereof. º The Holiday Long Term Blue Car Park from €4.95 per day or part thereof. º Each offers a 24 hour courtesy shuttle bus service. º Short Term Car Parks start from €9.50 per day or part thereof. º Located just a 2-4 minute walk from T2 and a 6-8 minute walk from T1, this is an ideal option for business travellers.

For further information on the different Car Parking options, log on to aerlingus.com or aerlingusparking.com.

Muffin MadneSS arriveS in beLfaST!

To help create awareness of Aer Lingus’ move to George Best Belfast City Airport and to launch its new route from Belfast to London Gatwick, Aer Lingus ran a competition with Belfast shoppers on Saturday 1st September. Over 1,000 Aer Lingus mini muffins were distributed to shoppers and they had the opportunity to enter a competition to win a fabulous trip to London with a decadent afternoon tea in a five star London hotel.

is2Nice cycle, raising Aer Lingus is delighted to support the Par l Palsy Sport Ireland. funds for Special Olympics and Celebra 29 September to The six day, 700km cycle takes place from 4 October 2012. paris2nice.com october/november 2012

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iNfliGhT ENTERTAINMENT

FLIGHTS TO THE US From Dublin to Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando; from Shannon to Boston and New York; from Madrid to Washington. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.

Movies

The Amazing Spiderman

FLIGHTS TO THE US ThE AMAZiNG SPiDERMAN

kATy PERRy: PART Of ME

Action / Adventure (PG 13) 136 minutes

Documentary / Music (PG ) 93 minutes

The Amazing Spider-Man is the story of Peter Parker, a high school outcast who was abandoned by his parents as a boy. Peter is trying to figure out how he got to be the person he is today. As Peter discovers a mysterious briefcase, he begins a quest to understand his parents’ disappearance – leading him to the lab of Dr. Curt Connors – his father’s former partner. As Spider-Man is set on a collision course with Connors’ alterego, Peter will make life-altering choices to use his powers and shape his destiny to become a hero.

Katy Perry: Part of Me is a backstage pass and front row seat look at the fun, glamorous, heartbreaking, inspiring, crazy, passionate, and honest diary of the superstar. This is an intimate look at the pop star from her early career as a teenage Christian singing star, to her life in Los Angeles where she almost gave up on her dream and the big break that shot her to stardom. On the tour we witness her creative genius and what it’s like to be one of the top three female singers in the world … but we also witness her marriage to Russell Brand break down.

STARS Andrew Garfield, Emma Stone, Rhys Ifans, Denis Leary, Campbell Scott, Martin Sheen, Sally Field DiRECTOR Marc Webb

STARS Katy Perry DiRECTOR Dan Cutforth, Jane Lipsitz

MADAGASCAR 3: EUROPE’S MOST WANTED

Action / Animation/ Family ( PG) 93 minutes Katy Perry: Part Of Me

This is the much anticipated third instalment in the animation franchise and follows up where Madagascar and Madagascar: Escape 2 Africa left off. Alex the Lion, Marty the Zebra, Gloria the Hippo, and Melman the Giraffe are still fighting to get home to their beloved Big Apple and of course, King Julien, Maurice and the Penguins are all along for the comedic adventure. Their journey takes them through Europe where they find the perfect cover: a traveling circus, which they reinvent – Madagascar style.

STARS ThE vOiCES Of Ben Stiller, David Schwimmer, Sacha Baron Cohen, Jada Pinkett Smith, Chris Rock, Frances McDormand DiRECTOR Eric Darnell

More Movies On Demand

Madagascar 3: Europe’s Most Wanted

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BEASTS Of ThE SOUThERN WilD Quvenzhane Wallis BUlly Ja’Meya Jackson CROOkED ARROWS Brandon Routh DARk ShADOWS Johnny Depp ThE DiCTATOR Sacha Baron Cohen hiCk Blake Lively lOlA vERSUS Greta Girwig ThE MAGiC Of BEllE iSlE Morgan Freeman

SAfE Jason Statham SAfETy NOT GUARANTEED Mark Duplass SEARChiNG fOR SUGAR MAN Rodriguez WhAT TO ExPECT WhEN yOU’RE ExPECTiNG Cameron Diaz COWGiRlS N’ANGElS Bailee Madison BEE MOviE Jerry Seinfeld (voice) PUSS iN BOOTS Antonio Banderas (voice)

FLIGHTS FROM THE US From Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando to Dublin; from New York and Boston to Shannon; from Washington to Madrid. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.

Movies

Men In Black 3

FLIGHTS FROM THE US MEN IN BLACK 3

Action / Comedy / Sci-Fi (PG 13) 105 minutes In Men in Black 3, Agents J and K are back.

J has seen some inexplicable things in his 15 years with the Men in Black, but nothing, not even aliens, perplexes him as much as his wry, reticent partner. But when K’s life and the fate of the planet are put at stake, Agent J will have to travel back in time to put things right. J discovers that there are secrets to the universe that K never told him -- secrets that will reveal themselves as he teams up with the young Agent K to save his partner, the agency, and the future of humankind.

StArS Will Smith, Tommy Lee Jones, Josh Brolin, Jemaine Clement, Michael Stuhlbarg, Alice Eve, Bill Hader, David Rasche, Emma Thompson, Mike Colter, Lenny Venito DIrECtor Barry Sonnenfeld

BrAVE

SEEKINg A frIEND for thE END of thE worLD

Animation / Action / Adventure (PG) 100 minutes

Drama / Comedy / Romance (R) 101 minutes

This is the directorial debut of screenwriter Lorene Scafaria. Set in a not too distant future, the dramedy explores what people will do when humanity’s last days are at hand, as a giant asteroid is about to hit the Earth. Insurance salesman Dodge finds himself facing the end of the world alone when his wife leaves him in a panic.

He decides to seek out his high school sweetheart and is joined on the journey by free-spirited Penny, who longs to see her family again. As these mismatched two converge, sparks fly and the world’s future somehow looks brighter ... in spite of the odds.

StArS Steve Carell, Keira Knightley DIrECtor Lorene Scafaria

Brave

Merida is a skilled archer and impetuous daughter of King Fergus and Queen Elinor.

Determined to carve her own path in life, Merida defies an age-old custom sacred to the uproarious lords of the land: massive Lord MacGuffin, surly Lord Macintosh and cantankerous Lord Dingwall. Merida’s actions inadvertently unleash chaos and fury in the kingdom, and when she turns to an eccentric old Witch for help, she is granted an ill-fated wish. The ensuing peril forces Merida to discover the meaning of true bravery in order to undo a beastly curse before it’s too late.

StArS thE VoICES of Kelly Macdonald, Emma Thompson, Kevin McKidd, Robbie Coltrane, Craig Ferguson, Billy Connolly, Julie Walters DIrECtor Mark Andrews, Brenda Chapman

More Movies On Demand

Seeking A Friend For The End Of The World

ABrAhAM LINCoLN: VAMpIrE huNtEr Benjamin Walker BEL AMI Robert Pattinson hEMINgwAy & gELLhorN Nicole Kidman IN thE LAND of BLooD AND hoNEy Rade Serbedzija JESuS hENry ChrISt Toni Collette LoL Miley Cyrus LIttLE MurDEr Josh Lucas pEACE, LoVE AND

MISuNDErStANDINg Jane Fonda proMEthEuS Charlize Theron roCK of AgES Tom Cruise toNIght you’rE MINE (you INStEAD) Luke Treadway to roME wIth LoVE Penelope Cruz thE grEAt ghoSt rESCuE Kevin McKidd MADAgASCAr Chris Rock (voice) ShrEK thE thIrD Eddie Murphy (voice)

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INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

Television On Demand TV gives you the opportunity to select and view your favourite TV shows. Look out for the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning comedy and drama as well as a variety of genres. COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS takes in fresh new comedy from HBO in Veep, Enlightened and Curb Your Enthusiasm. More exciting comedy includes Two Broke Girls, Modern Family, Raising Hope, New Girl, Family Guy, The Big Bang Theory and The IT Crowd. Classic comedy features Mork and Mindy, Frasier and Sex and The City.

As we witness a golden age in TV drama – Aer Lingus brings you an engaging choice of DRAMA TV with the availability of both one-off and multiple episodes. Watch out for the new HBO drama The Newsroom, this exhilarating drama takes a behind-thescenes look at the life of a news anchor and his newsroom staff. CSI’s popularity speaks for itself as in 2012 it was named the most watched show in the world for the fifth time.

More brand new Drama in Hart of Dixie starring Rachel Bilson as Dr. Zoe Hart.

Available On-Demand is six episodes of Season 2 from the HBO triumph Boardwalk Empire. Steve Buscemi stars in

this award-winning drama series that charts the continued rise of organized crime at the dawn of Prohibition in Atlantic City, New Jersey. “In Season 2 all the promise of last season looks to be realized with impressively deft storytelling, beautiful cinematography and impeccable acting.” (Hollywood Reporter) Premium HBO drama continues in Treme with the first six episodes of Season 2. This Emmy-nominated drama series takes place during the rebuilding of post-Katrina New Orleans. It charts the interconnected stories of several struggling musicians and locals, as they attempt to rebuild their lives through the music and traditions that make them, and the city, unique.

The stylish Mad Men is set in a fictional 1960s advertising agency in New York City.

This complex and intelligent drama has received much critical acclaim, particularly for its historical authenticity and visual style and has won multiple Emmy and Golden Globe awards. Available On-Demand is six episodes from Season 4.

Watch out for six episodes of Season 2 of Blue Bloods, also set in New York, it stars Tom Selleck. This drama is a solid and gritty character-driven, multi-story series and Selleck’s character serves as the anchor for four generations of police officers.

Award-winning drama continues with The Good Wife- a drama about a politician’s wife who pursues her own career as a defense attorney after her husband is charged with political corruption. Julianna Margulies has been widely recognized for her portrayal of Alicia Florrick, and has won a Primetime Emmy The Newsroom award, Screen Actors Guild

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CSI

ON DEMAND

Two Broke Girls and Golden Globe award. Available OnDemand is six episodes from Season 3.

TEENS can view Glee, Shake It Up, Zeke and Luther and kids will love Angelina Ballerina, Bob The Builder, Fireman Sam, Thomas and Friends and brand new Irish animation exclusive to Aer Lingus in I’m A Creepy Crawly.

LIFESTYLE AND MUSIC HIGHLIGHTS include Elbow: Live On Air, Radio 1: Hackney Weekend, Inside the Actors Studio (The Cast of Mad Men), Later with Jools Holland, Amy: The Day She Came to Dingle, A Day in the Life, Meat Men, Jamie’s 30 Minute Meals, Movie Talk, Videofashion News, Uncorked! Wine Made Simple, The Doctors, HSBC Golfing World, Click and World Olympic Dreams.

In DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS enter a world beyond imagination in BBC’s Frozen Planet narrated by Sir David Attenborough.

The National Geographic channel presents Engineering Connections and Nat Geo Amazing. Don’t miss the insightful documentary Waterways: The Royal Canal. Marilyn Monroe in the Movies is a retrospective on the iconic blonde who is dead 50 years this year; Charlie Boorman concludes the schedule in Extreme Frontiers.

Radio 1980s

ON DEMAND Alternative

Classical

Easy Listening

Fitzpatrick Hotels

Larry’s Golden Oldies

Phantom 105.2

This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information fitzpatrickhotels.com.

Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.

Legendary RTÉ 2fm DJ Larry Gogan brings listeners on board his selection of 1980s classics. Larry has been playing music on RTÉ 2fm for over 30 years and he spun the first disc on that station in 1979. Larry is famed for his music knowledge and is thrilled to bring Aer Lingus passengers his eclectic 80s mix. From Michael Jackson to Wham, Simple Minds, George Michael and U2- Larry has the 1980s covered.

Tune in to hear more from the legend himself -weekdays on RTÉ 2fm from 1-2pm on Larry’s Golden Hour.

Phantom 105.2 is quite simply the home of the very best music played on any Irish radio station. Phantom is committed to playing brand new music, Indie Rock but really we will play all genres of music – if it’s a great track, we will play it. Oh, we also like having a bit of craic along the way so why not try something different and tune into Phantom 105.2 – we promise you won’t be disappointed! We are Phantom – music that rocks!

Pop

Chart Hits Chart Hits lifts the lid on the biggest and most up-to-theminute chart hits from both sides of the Atlantic. Listen out for your favourite artists in this compilation of smash hits. Featuring the world’s most successful artists Kylie, Scissor Sisters, Katy Perry, Cheryl and newcomers to the scene – Stooshe and Marina and the Diamonds and everybody’s favourite twins Jedward.

Marty Whelan Selects … Classical Marty Whelan selects some of his favourite music from the worlds of classical, film and the Great American Songbook.

The programme includes works by Puccini, Mascagni, Vaughan Williams and Grieg and sweeping scores from Ennio Morricone, plus the music of the great tunesmiths like Cole Porter and George Gershwin. Marty in the Morning is on RTÉ lyric fm Monday to Friday from 07.00-10.00am.

Soul

Talk Radio

Traditional Irish

Cathal Murray’s Soul Show

Best of Moncrieff

Ceol na nGael

Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street.

Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff

Ceol na nGael is a traditional music programme presented, in Irish, by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Seán presents Sruth na Maoile on RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and is celebrating 40 years on air. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth, le Seán Ó hÉanaigh. For more visit: rte.ie/rnag.

Twitter @RTERnaG

RTÉ Radio 1’s Cathal Murray has chosen the best in soul for your listening pleasure.

Replenish your soul as you enjoy the voices of icons like Curtis Mayfield and Aretha Franklin. Cathal presents The Weekend on One with Cathal Murray every Saturday and Sunday morning on RTÉ Radio 1. Cathal’s eclectic musical taste has won over fans in Ireland and beyond. Twitter @MurrayCathal

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Radio Opera

ON DEMAND

Country

Countdown

Documentary On One The Documentary On One is the multi award winning documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (88-90FM). Currently the most successful documentary unit in the world – with over 70 awards won since 2009. The website contains over 1,000 radio documentaries all available to listen/podcast. You can also download the free Documentary on One iPhone/Android app. The featured documentary is ‘Logan Way – The Story of the Bulgers’. James ‘Whitey’ Bulger was second on the FBI’s most wanted list. Whitey’s younger brother William went into politics. In one of his first interviews William talks about his political career, his brother ‘Whitey’ and why he won’t disown him. www.rte.ie/doconone

The Big 10 Produced especially for Aer Lingus, Darragh O’Dea presents 98FMs Big Ten songs from the movies. This show contains clips from some of the biggest stars of cinema from the past 50 years as well as the songs that made them such a success.

Join Darragh in his countdown of the most famous songs from your favourite Movies. For more tune into 98FM from 10-11am every weekend.

Opera: On Song

Keep It Country

Bernard Clarke presents a selection of music from the heart of the core opera repertoire including some of the greatest voices along the way – Maria Callas, Renata Tebaldi, Giuseppe di Stefano, Jon Vickers, Luciano Pavarotti, Anna Netrebko, Bryn Terfel, Lotte Lenya and many more. Tune into Opera Night presented by Bernard Clarke on RTÉ lyric fm on Saturdays from 7pm-10pm for more operatic delights.

Keep It Country offers a sublime blend of cooling Country sounds.

With hits from both classic and modern artists, you are sure to experience the refreshing flavours of authentic country music. Willie Nelson, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Kenny Chesney, Chris Cagle and many others perform some of their best works for you today.

Kids

Musical Hits

Jazz

1970s

RTÉ Jr

Broadway Favourites

Jazz Alley

Copeland Classic Hits

Join Emma O’Driscoll and her friends from ‘Emma’s Magical Kingdom’ on RTÉjr Radio for a fun packed show to enjoy during your flight! There’s Disney music, a Disney quiz and a little bit of pixie dust added in here and there! RTÉjr Radio is Ireland’s only radio station that’s just for children. You can tune in on your digital radio, online rte. ie/digitalradio/rtejr Saorview and on the RTÉ Radio Player on your mobile device to hear more.

Broadway Favourites may tempt you to visit a Broadway show whilst in New York or indeed provide inspiration to tread the boards yourself. This show is a fun collection of memorable songs from the world’s most famous Broadway musicals.

Tune in to hear hits from Annie Get Your Gun, The Sound of Music, Singin In The Rain, Guys and Dolls, Carousel and many more. Enjoy!

Donald Helme takes a leisurely look at the contribution that the saxophone family of instruments has made to the development of jazz music.

Helme spreads the net far and wide from soprano to baritone, from traditional to modern with exponents such as Benny Golson, Houston Person, Scott Hamilton and Ken Peplowski. Jazz Alley with Donald Helme is on RTÉ lyric fm on Wednesdays from 7pm-8pm.

Welcome to the music of Copeland Classic Hits brought to courtesy of Louis Copeland & Sons, a name synonymous with men’s tailoring in Dublin. Classic Hits is an exciting selection of hits from the 1970s.

Louis Copeland is a world renowned master tailor and provider of men’s suits for over 100 years. His stores are located on in Dublin on Capel St, Pembroke St and Wicklow St and beside the IFSC, in Dublin Airport and in Galway. From Armani, Hugo Boss, Paul Smith and more- all leading labels are available in all stores. louiscopeland.com

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Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board to allow your skin to breathe, and apply a good moisturiser throughout.

Stretch your legs as much as possible by taking a stroll through the cabin.

Circle your ankles clockwise and anticlockwise. Bend and straighten your ankles in a brisk manner with the knee straight.

Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.

Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce any possible effects of long-duration travel.

Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation.

And remember to move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness.

Reducing the effects of jet-lag

Passengers with wheelchair requirements

To help reduce the effects of travelling and jet-lag before, during and after your flight, we have introduced an audio programme (available on Channel 6), which will play every other hour, offering 60 minutes of soothing and relaxing audio environments. The programme is designed to enhance your physical and mental wellbeing during the flight.

Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.

Apart from tuning in to the inflight relaxation programme, here are some other simple things that you can do to prepare for your journey.

Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel.

When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities gradually to the new time zone.

Mild exercise on arrival will also help to stimulate your circulation.

Carry-on baggage

We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.

AER LINGUS

AER LINGUS REGIONAL

Maximum weight

48cm (19ins)

10kg 55cm (22ins)

If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com Telephone:

(22 lbs)

24cm (9ins)

Maximum weight

7kg (15 lbs)

40cm (16ins)

20cm (8ins)

33cm (13ins)

In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices

(Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222

EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter.

As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other

passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety.

If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination.

The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not

be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence.

In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them.

We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.

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RouteMaps EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Helsinki Stockholm

Aberdeen Glasgow

Kerry

Edinburgh

Copenhagen Vilnius

Isle of Man Blackpool DUBLIN Manchester London Birmingham HEATHRoW

Hamburg

Amsterdam London Dusseldorf SouTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Frankfurt

Berlin

Warsaw

Cardiff

Jersey

Paris

Rennes

Stuttgart

Prague

Munich

Vienna

Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid

Faro

Milan lan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Budapest

Venice Verona Ve Bologna

Bucharest Dubrovnik

Bourgas

Rome

Barcelona

Ibiza

Lisbon

Milan

LINATE

Krakow

Naples

Palma

Izmir

Alicante

Catania

Malaga

Athens

Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Toulouse ■ Rennes

Ireland ■ Kerry

Morocco Agadir

Belgium Brussels

Denmark Copenhagen

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona (new route)

Poland Krakow Warsaw

Bulgaria Bourgas Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife Croatia Dubrovnik

(commencing 28th October)

Finland Helsinki France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan

Greece Athens Hungary Budapest

Lithuania Vilnius The Netherlands Amsterdam

Portugal Faro Lisbon Romania Bucharest Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao

Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela Sweden Stockholm (new route) Switzerland Geneva Zurich Turkey Izmir

United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester ■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com

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INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Edinburgh

Knock

BELFAST

SHANNON

Dublin WATERFORD

Manchester

Birmingham Amsterdam Luton Bristol London Southend London Heathrow LONDON Brussels GATWICK

CORK

Jersey Rennes

Paris

Munich

Nice

Barcelona

Rome

Palma Lisbon Faro

Tenerife

Alicante Malaga

Lanzarote Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon, Waterford & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Canary Islands ■ Lanzarote ■ Tenerife Portugal Faro Spain ■ Alicante ■ Barcelona Malaga United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick

(new route commencing 28th October)

112 |

FROM CORK

FROM GATWICK

Belgium Brussels (new route)

Italy Rome

The Netherlands Amsterdam

Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas

Portugal Faro Lisbon

United Kingdom London Gatwick London Heathrow

France Nice Paris ■ Rennes

Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma

Germany Munich

Switzerland Geneva

■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

Ireland Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON France ■ Rennes United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Manchester

FROM WATERFORD ■ United Kingdom London Luton Manchester London Southend FROM KNOCK ■ United Kingdom Birmingham London Gatwick

■ Routes terminate end of October ■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

USA ROUTE NETWORK

Chicago

Boston New York Washington

Shannon

Dublin

Orlando

Madrid

To & From Dublin, Shannon & Madrid FROM DUBLIN

FROM SHANNON

FROM MADRID

USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando

USA Boston New York

USA Washington DC

(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

Chicago Orlando

october/november 2012

| 113

inFLight ROUTE MAPS

CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis

Omaha Salt Lake City

Sacramento San Francisco San Jose

Kansas City Denver

Oakland

Nashville

Long Beach ach

Los Angeles San Diego

Phoenix

Houston

Columbus Washington DuLLES

Lexington Lex

Portland ME Boston

Nantucket neW York

Baltimore Wa Washington NATIONAL

Ri Richmond Raleigh - Durham Ra

Charlotte

Dallas (Fort Worth) Austin

Syracuse Rochester Ro

Pittsburgh Pi Burlington on

Cleveland

Indianapolis Cincinnati Cincinna Saint Louis uis Louisville

Las Vegas

Burbank

Detroit

ChiCago

Toronto Buffalo

Atlanta

New Orleans

Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aguadilla

San Juan Ponce Po

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO new destinations with aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United airlines and aer arann Getting to the uS from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier.

Now uS, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental uS destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers.

By choosing to fly to the united States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of united States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at

Terminal 2, Dublin airport.

This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of uS bound flights to clear uS immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon.

Customers arrive in the uS without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination.

■ neW York Connecting with JetBlue at JFk: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, simply hop on the Air Train to JetBlue’s Terminal 5 for your domestic connection.

Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at

the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ Boston Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan international airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure.

Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ ChiCago Connecting with United airlines at o’hare Chicago international airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your uA domestic departure point.

Passengers from the uS to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the uA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin.

■ DUBLin Connecting with aer Lingus regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final uS destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

114 |

october/november 2012

Helsinki Stockholm

Edinburgh

Glasgow

Isle of Man Hamburg

Manchester

Dublin Birmingham

Shannon kerry

London

London SouTHEND London

cardiff Bristol

Berlin

Amsterdam

HEATHrow

GATwIck

warsaw

Dusseldorf Brussels krakow

Frankfurt Paris Vienna

Munich

Geneva Milan

Venice

LINATE

Dubrovnik

Alicante

Faro

                         

Alicante Amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dubrovnik Dusseldorf Edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg Helsinki krakow Lisbon London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Munich Palma Paris rome Stockholm

Malaga

 Venice  Vienna  warsaw ■ Via Dublin with aer lingus Regional       

Bristol cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend kerry

■ Via Shannon with aer lingus  London (Heathrow) ■ Via Shannon with aer lingus Regional    

Naples

Palma

Lisbon

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus

rome

Barcelona

Madrid

Manchester Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh

■ Via new YoRk with Jetblue                          

Aguadilla Austin Baltimore Buffalo Burbank Burlington charlotte chicago Denver Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket New orleans oakland orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Ponce Portland ME Portland or raleigh-Durham

          

rochester Sacramento Salt Lake city San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Seattle Syracuse Tampa west Palm Beach

■ Via boSton with Jetblue              

Baltimore Buffalo chicago Dallas Fort worth Denver Ford Lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket New orleans oakland

              

orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Portland or raleigh-Durham richmond Salt Lake city San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Seattle Tampa washington (Dulles) washington (National)  west Palm Beach

■ Via ChiCago with united to uSa                          

Atlanta Austin charlotte cincinnati chicago cleveland columbus Dallas (Fort worth) Denver Detroit Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville kansas city Las Vegas Lexington Los Angeles Louisville Miami Minneapolis Nantucket Nashville New orleans omaha Phoenix Pittsburgh

         

Portland or raleigh-Durham Sacramento Salt Lake city San Diego San Francisco San Jose Seattle St Louis Tampa

■ Via ChiCago with united to Canada      

calgary Edmonton Salt Lake city Toronto Vancouver winnipeg

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann october/november 2012

| 115

FlightConnections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT

FLIGHTS ARRIvING AT TERmINAL 2 FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s

Immigration

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

Immigration

Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check.

After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level.

Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes.

Please disembark From THe BACK oF THe airCraFT iF:

Please disembark From THe FRONT oF THe airCraFT iF:

 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

116 |

october/november 2012

london is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic Uk airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance

5^aYZS` 5Sef^W

R A I LT O U R S IRELAND

First Class!

American Restaurant & Bar

A FREE APPETISER for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass Terms and conditions apply

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Book Today - Travel Tomorrow

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The GPO Dublin

Visit Letters, Lives and Liberty in Dublin’s GPO and uncover the story of the Rising and the Irish Post Office in the place where history was made.

south king st | blanchardstown | dundrum | cork | belfast

delicious noodles rice dishes freshly squeezed juices wine sake japanese beers lunch menu €9.95 take out menu available wagamama ireland

Michelin Bib Gourmand

General Post Office O’Connell Street Dublin 1 www.anpost.ie/heritage

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com

INFLIGHT SKY SHOPPING

Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf Eau de Toilette - 50ml Spicebomb is the new masculine fragrance from Viktor & Rolf. Electrifying, captivating and fearless. He doesn’t just explode – he goes boom. Spicebomb offers a highly addictive explosion of spices, tamed by an invigorating freshness. This new fragrance is the weapon of mass seduction!

hope in a jar

60ml by philosophy A unique soufflé texture originally created for the medical profession and recommended by plastic surgeons and dermatologists. It will improve the look of multiple skincare concerns including fine lines, rough texture and dehydration. A drink of water for your skin.

Aer Lingus Fun Plane with FREE key-ring Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and flashing lights. It comes complete with batteries for hours of fun. Also included is a FREE gift of a miniature plane key-ring.

Miss Dior Eau Fraîche Eau de Toilette - 50ml Enjoy the elegant chypre fragrance of Miss Dior in this new fresh and luminous version with its blend of bergamot and gardenia against base notes of patchouli.

118 |

october/november 2012

Naked2 by Urban Decay A taupe-centric palette of twelve neutral shadows (five brand new) in shades ranging from pale to deep, matt to sparkly. More beige in overall tone than their first Naked palette, this collection still delivers subtle, neutral looks, smoky dramatic eyes and everything in between.

Shamballa Bracelet with Crystals and Natural Stones by Aeon This high-quality Aeon unisex crystal and natural stone beaded bracelet is part of a growing trend in jewellery that incorporates the healing properties of natural stones into fashion jewellery design. The crystals have always been a renowned symbol of peace, tranquillity and happiness. The fully adjustable 18cm to 23cm bracelet comes presented in an Aeon organza pouch.

Scents of Ireland Luxury Candles

by Tipperary Crystal

These luxury scented candles are made in Ireland using luxury fragrances that evoke memories of Ireland. This charming gift box contains two wonderfully natural scented candles. The Mourne Memories candle has a fresh, clean mountain air scent while the Sligo Shores candle will bring back memories of the wild Atlantic shore to your mind. Also contains two picture postcards.

Sky Shopping ng Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items at reduced prices onboard during October/November.

Storm Husky Puppy Storm is a super-soft Husky that will always be ready for a cuddle! A beautiful puppy that will bring a smile to his new owner.

Skagen Black Leather Strap Men’s Watch Genuine style. This men’s watch with a black leather strap connects to a brushed stainless steel case. The shiny black dial features twelve chrome and white luminous numbered indicators, a 24-hour dial and date function.

Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices

Skagen Silver Mesh Strap Women’s Watch Stainless steel appeal. Signature Skagen silver mesh bands connect to a slim stainless steel IP gold case with gold border. The vertically brushed chrome dial features twelve indicators made with CRYSTALLIZED™ Swarovski elements.

october/november 2012

| 119

trip of a lifetime

Into the light

Halfway through a blister-inducing pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, Brat Pack actor and travel writer Andrew McCarthy has a life-changing revelation.

I

was on my knees. Sobbing. In the middle of northern Spain, halfway into an 800 kilometre walk along the Way of Saint James, bound for Santiago de Compostela, I was exhausted, tapped out, reduced to a weeping mess. I shook my fists at the heavens and cursed whatever God it was I half believed in. This was not the triumphant march across the Iberian Peninsula I had intended. But it wasn’t just the walk – although it had been a miserable few weeks of blisters, bad beds and loneliness. Unwittingly, I had attached metaphorical significance to my trudge. It had grown to represent the journey of my life so far – and on parched ground under a blistering sun, the symbolic meaning I read into my present condition was not good. I seemed to lack some innate thing that living demanded. How could I have

120 |

october/november 2012

come so far, only to end up like this?

I sat back on my heels, my tears subsided, my breathing slowed. Alone in a field of scraggly wheat that stretched to the horizon, the space between my shoulder blades felt exposed and vulnerable. I re-hoisted my backpack, found my walking stick – hurled aside in my tantrum – and shuffled on.

At the next village, the dusty town of Castrojeriz, I found a room above a bar and fell into a heavy sleep. The next morning I set out again. The air had a softness the day would devour, but hadn’t yet. The sky was without clouds. The space between my shoulders still carried a sense of frailty, yet my pack seemed to rest easier on my back. After an hour I stopped beside a barn to drink water and noticed my senses seemed unusually keen. The colours around

Pilgrim spirit, top, on the road to Santiago de Compostela; above, 1980s heart-throb Andrew McCarthy, all grown up.

me appeared heightened – the umber of the dirt, the red of the barn, the yellow of the tractor in the field, were all more vivid than normal, their edges more sharply defined. I heard birds call and respond. I grew conscious of my breathing, slow and rhythmic. In a moment of clarity I had done nothing to consciously summon, I became suddenly aware of something that I had known my whole life. It disclosed itself to me with the simplicity of the absolute. I realised there wasn’t re something in my so character I lacked – ch as I had feared – but something I had an so overabundance of, ov something that had some dictated so many of dict my actions without my awareness, that had been behind so many decisions, and obscured so much obsc judgment. Fear, I saw judgm in that moment, had ruled my life. And the vulnerability between vulner my shoulders was the space that had been created when the weight of that domineering, life-directing, decisionmaking fear had been temporarily relieved. It was in that experience of its first absence, when fear began to lose its all-pervading hold over me.

The next two weeks went by in a blaze. Every step brought me deeper into sync with the universe. I arrived at my chosen location just before a downpour; I slept in and missed the pack of wild dogs that terrorised the early walkers; I grew physically stronger each day and, by the time I strode into Santiago in late July, I felt the way I had always wanted to feel but never quite did.

During an accidental moment under a hot sun in the rural north of Spain I was cracked open and given a glimpse of how I might be able to live a different life from the one that had been leading me – and nothing has been the same since.

Andrew McCarthy’s memoir, The Longest Way Home (Simon & Schuster, £10.99) is out now.

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