Cara Oct/Nov 2017

October/November 2017

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

OARSOMEDUDES WE MEET OLYMPIC ROWERS PAUL AND GARY O'DONOVAN

THEFOODISSUE THE PEOPLE & PLACES WHETTING OUR APPETITE

EAST CORK • CORNWALL • OJAI CITY • LONDON • LISBON

Welcome to Ireland from AIB Corporate Banking

Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248

Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219

AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland.

To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.

Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.

CONTENTS

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2017

CHECK IN

6 WELCOME Aer Lingus news

10 ARRIVALS Hello holidaymakers! We meet and greet at Dublin’s T2 13 CHECK IN Seasonal highlights, from art exhibitions to Halloween mayhem 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s best books and e-reads 32 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Choreographer Emma Martin’s comings and goings

82

34 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins’ Washington DC edit

California Soul

36 WEEKENDER Lucy White discovers Hot Tub O’Clock in Wicklow 38 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO HAARLEM Niall Barry extols the virtues of Amsterdam’s neighbour

FEATURES

41 MEDALLION MEN Clíona Foley has the craic with Olympic rowers Paul and Gary O’Donovan down in Cork

48 MAKING THE GRADE Ingmar Kiang talks shop with Irish food producers 56 FEAST OF EDEN Melanie Mullan’s tasty slice of East Cork 66 CORNISH DELIGHTS Lucy White road tests the ultimate Cornwall food crawl 82 GOOD VIBRATIONS Slow travel has never felt better than in Ojai, California, says Rachel Marlowe

48 Food Fiends

92 LONDON DRINKS Good libations from Eoin Higgins

REGULARS

66 Cornish Cravings

76 YOU SAY, WE SAY Catherine Murphy’s top ten mountain retreats

101 5 BEAUTIFUL ART DECO CITIES Cue Lucy White’s jazz hands 106 48 HOURS IN MÁLAGA Niamh O’Donoghue’s costa del superstars 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Wildlife filmmaker Colin Stafford-Johnson has travelled the globe, but finds wonderment on Skellig Michael

92 London Liquor

BUSINESS

109 BUSINESS & LIFE Emily McAuliffe’s Lisbon guide for Web Summiteers 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Retirement is a dirty word for Ireland’s busiest octogenarian Tom Monaghan 118 WILDE THING Lucy White checks into London’s Hotel Café Royal and profiles new stays in Lyon, San Francisco and Shoreditch 120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT By Brenda Cullen, executive director of the Undergraduate Awards Summit

Alaïa Balenciaga Céline Chanel Chloé Christian Louboutin Dolce & Gabbana Erdem Fendi Givenchy Gucci Hermès Louis Vuitton Prada Saint Laurent Paris Tom Ford Valentino Victoria Beckham

DUBLIN CORK LIMERICK GALWAY

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Š Kildare Village 2017

09/17

CARA Magazine October/November 2017

WELCOME ABOARD Winter is coming … But fear not – we’ve increased our schedule and introduced Saver Fares to help blitz your blues. elcome onboard, and thank you for choosing to fly with us today.

Another summer has passed, and for every person that delights in digging out their knitwear and fireside banter are many more that long for warmer climes. In a recent survey of Aer Lingus guests by Amárach Research, 80 per cent said they will yearn for a winter break this year – with 35 per cent looking forward to a getaway more than the excitement of Christmas (34 per cent). One in five Irish adults are planning an autumn/winter jaunt, primarily to break up the long months (27 per cent).

According to the research, the Aer Lingus destinations that Irish people most want to visit this season are New York (18 per cent), for epic, festive shenanigans, followed by Florida (seven per cent), Málaga (six per cent), Faro (six per cent) and Barcelona (five per cent). Unsurprisingly, city breaks prove the most popular among 16-24 year olds (41 per cent), with transatlantic escapades scoring highest among young professionals aged 25-34 (23 per cent). The over-55s, meanwhile, favour sunshine above all (45 per cent).

W

LIGHT TRAVELLER? Our new Saver Fares to the US offer superb value from €169 each way, incl. one item of 10kg cabin baggage, inflight meals and entertainment.

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The rush of endorphins starts early, with 46 per cent of respondents feeling giddy at the mere thought of booking a holiday. And the post-trip humblebrag amongst friends and family apparently creates a lingering satisfaction rating of 45 per cent. So don’t let the “Winter Blues” get you down – get away, on one of our 300,000 additonal seats to Europe and North America this winter.

As well as looking forward to making your winter-break dreams come true, we’re excited to see which three shortfilm winners will be announced in our Irish Filmmaker Competition, which we launched back in June with the Irish Film Board/Bord Scannán na hÉireann.

Filmmaker judges Mark O’Halloran, Dearbhla Walsh and Neasa Hardiman will whittle the 12 shortlisted films down to three winners, which will then be available onboard the transatlantic Inflight Entertainment programme from December.

Finally, Ireland will either be celebrating or commiserating on November 15, when it’s announced which country is to host the 2023 Rugby World Cup. Fingers crossed that it’s the former and we, as a nation, get to showcase the very best of Irish hospitality.

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

BLUES NO MORE Happy winters are just a click away, with Aer Lingus adding 194,000 extra seats to Europe and 350 extra flights from Ireland to North America.

HOTEL HANDLER Aer Lingus has partnered with booking.com, one of the world’s leading accommodation suppliers.

Flights and hotels sorted in one swoop – book now at aerlingus.com.

CHEER US ON! Look out for the Aer Lingus Team in the SSE Airtricity Dublin Marathon on October 29, running to raise funds for Breast Cancer Research.

EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Niall Barry, Fatti Burke, Graham Corcoran, Clíona Foley, Bridget Hourican, Tristan Hutchinson, Ingmar Kiang, Fuchsia MacAree, Catherine Murphy, Niamh O’Donoghue, Eithne Shortall, Colin Stafford-Johnson, Kristin Teig, Kyle Tunney, Anthony Woods

CONTRIBUTORS RACHEL MARLOWE has been writing about fashion, wellness and travel for over 15 years, starting at Tatler magazine in London, England before landing a dream job across the pond at W Magazine and relocating to NYC. Now based in LA, she contributes regularly to Vogue and vogue.com. For Cara, she explores Southern California’s magical town of Ojai – the weekend getaway of choice for everyone from LA’s “gypset” to Hollywood A-listers – see page 82.

ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie

KRISTIN TEIG

ART Art Director Niamh Richardson Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan

ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Robert Power Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Sam Power, Raymond Reihill, Gina Traynor

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD

Dublin illustrator BRIAN FITZGERALD is a graduate of the National College of Art and Design and has worked for publications including The Wall Street Journal, Johns Hopkins Magazine and The Boston Globe. He’s the creator of the award-winning children’s picture book Bounce Bounce and recently collaborated with The Texas Tenors on Ruckus on the Ranch. Turn to page 24 for his illustration celebrating Irish cookery schools.

CEO Clare Broadbent MD Christina da Silva Commercial Director Justine Daly Creative Director Stuart Purcell Editorial Director Maureen Rice Finance Director Jane Moffett Strategy & Business Director Ann Hartland

EMILY McAULIFFE is an Australian travel writer and copywriter based in Portugal. Her portfolio includes Lonely Planet, The Telegraph and Time Out, and she blogs at theportugalwire.com. When not exploring Europe, Emily spends her days researching Portugal’s food, culture and history, and has visited and photographed almost 100 cities and towns across the country. In this issue, she shows us around one of her favourite cities in the world, Lisbon – read all about it on page 110.

+44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE PUBLICATIONS LTD

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

October/November 2017

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

OARSOMEDUDES WE MEET OLYMPIC ROWERS PAUL AND GARY O'DONOVAN

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

THEFOODISSUE THE PEOPLE & PLACES WHETTING OUR APPETITE

EAST CORK • CORNWALL • OJAI CITY • LONDON • LISBON

ON THE COVER

Paul and Gary O’Donovan photographed by Tristan Hutchinson and assisted

by Melanie Mullan at the National Rowing Club in Cork.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

WHO? Olga Gianettoni and Fabio Finetti FLYING IN FROM ... Milan OLGA SAYS ...

“We’re here for just under two weeks and want to visit Galway, Cork and Kilkenny as well as explore Dublin.”

ARRIVALS

WHO? Mollie Greaney FLYING IN FROM ... London MOLLIE SAYS ... “I’m here with my parents for a short 24 hours. We’re going to see family in Waterford.”

This season’s meets and greets at Dublin’s T2, where we welcomed first-timers and whistle-stop trippers.

WHO? Luis and Franco Sainz FLYING IN FROM ... Madrid FRANCO SAYS ... “We’ve never been to Ireland before. We’re here for two weeks and are going to travel as much as we can.”

WHO? Josefine Wenzel and Frieda Ñess FLYING IN FROM ... Hamburg JOSEFINE SAYS ... “We were here last year so are going to visit our host family from then. After that we’re going to Connemara and Tralee.”

WORDS BY HANNAH COEN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN

WHO? James Darwin FLYING IN FROM ... Newquay JAMES SAYS ... “I’m here for work. I’m heading to Cork to work offshore for a month.”

WHO? Michel and Lise Borla FLYING IN FROM ... Nice MICHEL SAYS ... “We’re in Dublin for nine days but will do day trips to Glendalough and Galway, or Belfast.”

AERLINGUS.COM |

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Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence. See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Take the time to enjoy our MAGICAL GARDENS.

Open all year round • 5 miles from Cork • Open Monday - Sunday 9 - 6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie facebook.com/blarneycastleireland @blarney_castle blarneycastleandgardens

CHECK IN EAT · READ · GO

Foam, Oh!

DAMIEN, FROM THE SERIES NGL, 2015 © NAMSA LEUBA

A worldwide search for young photographic talent, Foam’s annual Talent Call creates a snapshot of developments in contemporary photography. Culled from 1,790 applications from 75 countries, the show will give 20 aspiring image-makers an entry into the professional arena. Foam Talent runs until November 12 at the Foam Photography Museum in Amsterdam, after which it travels internationally. foam.org

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STAY

4 BOUNTIFUL FARM-TO-TABLE RETREATS

Burtown House, Co Kildare Cook for yourself with ingredients from the garden at The Stable Yard House at Burtown House and Gardens self-catering accommodation near Athy. Or, dine at The Green Barn restaurant where they do the work for you – the menu changes daily based on the current crop.

Here, you’ll also find the Birdwoods exhibition – a collection of Zimbabwean stone sculptures – that runs until the end of November. Sleeps six people. Prices from €240 for a minimum two-night stay. burtownhouse.ie

ANGUS TAYLOR

Crosby Street Hotel, New York City It’s the artwork lining the walls and lobby that welcomes you into the Crosby Street Hotel – but it’s the bright colours, patterns and textures paired with the floor-to-ceiling windows in the bedrooms that will make you want to stay. Proving that sustainability is possible for city slickers too, the hotel uses its rooftop space as an urban fruit and vegetable garden for growing the seasonal produce on its menus. Rooms from $695. designhotels.com

Beaverbrook, Surrey Expansive grounds, luxury beds, delicious food … they’ve got it all at the charming Beaverbrook estate.

The grounds have two restaurants: The Dining Grill offers an elegant experience with Japanese cuisine, while The Garden House creates its menu based on locally sourced and grown produce. Relax and unwind in the spa or choose from a vast range of activities on offer. Rooms from £195. beaverbrook.co.uk

DRINKS

Le Mas de Peint, Provence Wake up to the sound of horses’ hooves on the grounds of Le Mas de Peint, or hop on the back of one to explore the vast surrounds of the Camargue floodlands where this farmhouse is set. It’s a meaty affair here, where the menu includes bull as well as farm-grown vegetables. Take a dip in the swimming pool or head north to Arles for creative inspiration. Rooms from €430 for two nights. i-escape.com

SHINE ON

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of the decriminalisation of poitín, a pop-up bar dedicated to Ireland’s moonshine will appear for a six-week residency at a secret Dublin location later this month. Sponsored by award-winning Bán Poitín, the 16-61 bar will host masterclasses, guest bartenders and a range of exclusive spirits, stouts and porters. A unique drinking experience for fans of Irish history, folklore and hooch. ban-poitin.com

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MUSIC

ALL THAT JAZZ

Celebrating its 40th anniversary, this year’s Guinness Cork Jazz Festival has partnered with London’s world-famous Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club to bring a stellar line-up of artists to the Rebel City, October 27-30. As ever, the festival bill favours the accessible over the beard-stroking, and features our own Imelda May, Grammy-winning Nicholas Payton, above, the amazing Booka Brass Band, and Monty Alexander, whose effortless ivory tinkling, word has it, made him Frank Sinatra’s favourite pianist.

In addition to the ticketed gigs, there’ll be hundreds of free music sessions in more than 75 pubs, clubs and hotels citywide as part of the Guinness Music Pub Trail. guinnessjazzfestival.com

DANCE

WAKE UP

Cork Opera House hosts a special short run of performances of Tchaikovsky’s masterpiece The Sleeping Beauty, November 9-11, to celebrate Cork City Ballet’s 25th anniversary. Led by critically acclaimed director Alan Foley and choreographed by Bolshoi-trained Yury Demakov, the production’s leading roles will be danced by Ekaterina Bortyakova and her husband Akzhol Mussakhanov, both principal dancers with the Moscow State Ballet. They will be joined by soloists and a full corps de ballet from Cork City Ballet in a production tutu good to miss ... corkcityballet.com

HISTORY

Home Tales The newly-opened Tenement Museum at 14 Henrietta Street, Dublin 1 provides a unique insight into the city’s social history.

Originally built for high-ranking members of the Anglo-Irish ruling elite, No 14 was converted to a tenement in 1877 and, by 1911, housed more than 100 people. Now, its restored rooms offer a glimpse of inner-city life, through guided tours, films, soundscapes and interpretative audio narratives. tenementmuseum.ie

COMEDY

Having a Laugh

What do you call 100 comedians packed into Ireland’s favourite party city? The Vodafone Comedy Carnival (vodafonecomedycarnival.com) returns to Galway, from October 24-30, with a huge line-up featuring A-list comedy stars, from Phill Jupitus and Rich Hall, to Tommy Tiernan, right, and Dara O’Briain.

ART

LOIE FULLER MANUAL BY OLA MACIEJEWSKA 2015 © MARTIN ARGYROGIO

PRETENTIOUS, NOUS? Unashamedly highbrow, the Lyon Biennale now attracts 250,000 visitors, making it a serious rival to Venice in the contemporary art world. Since its inception in 1991, artistic director Thierry Raspail has asked his guest curators to reflect on one word: previous examples include “history”, “globalisation” and “transmission”. The current keyword: “modern” has been used by Emma Lavigne, director of the Centre Pompidou-Metz, in her curation of Floating Worlds, a collection of works by 50 artists, open until January 7, 2018. Among the highlights, Buckminster-Fuller’s iconic geodesic dome meets a Céleste Boursier-Mougenot soundscape made by floating bowls – a unique listening experience. biennaledelyon.com

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DIPLOMACY

World Irish

Across Limerick city, from October 5-15, the inaugural I.NY Festival (thisisiny. com) explores the rich history of New York and the Irish. David Bowie’s musical director Gerry Leonard, Oscar-winner Glen Hansard, left, designer Orla Kiely and novelist Joseph O’Connor are among those discussing their love for the Big Apple; the festival also hosts a diaspora-focused I.NY Gathering in Dromoland Castle, and exhibitions from the Lower East Side Tenement Museum, Ellis Island and the Irish Arts Center. Meanwhile, Los Angeles is the scene for the much-anticipated Ireland Week (irelandweek.com), October 16-21, promising a high-level initiative aimed at further strengthening IrishAmerican trade and cultural exchange.

FAMILY ART

Yo MoMA

© 2017 CATHERINE LOSING. IMAGE COURTESY OF THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK

Does my art look big in this? For those of us who don’t quite get dead cows in formaldehyde, Items: Is Fashion Modern? running at New York’s Museum of Modern Art, is refreshingly user-friendly. The show explores 111 items of clothing – from Levi’s 501s to the LBD and our very own Aran jumper, below – and considers their impact, and the relationships between fashion and functionality, culture, politics and technology. moma.org

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Wiz Kids

With its towering stone walls, hidden passageways and secret gardens, the 800-year-old Ashford Castle in Co Mayo makes a perfectly spooky location for the ultimate Halloween break. Its annual Wizard School programme of events and supervised activities will do the trick for the kids, while the grown-ups can treat themselves to some spellbinding luxury at the 2017 AA Hotel of the Year. ashfordcastle.com

FILM

IFI over Wi-Fi

Our entire film heritage, lovingly curated by the Irish Film Institute, is now available on a free app. The IFI Player brings the Irish Film Archive to Apple and Android phones, tablets and TV-connected devices, allowing users to search for content by location, date or event. Marvel at over 100 years’ worth of short films, newsreels and documentaries, or cringe at unintentionally hilarious, retro TV ads. ifiplayer.ie

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DIASPORA

FAMILIAR

foreigner

What did your audition for The Foreigner involve? Firstly I read for the part of a bomber and then got a call saying the director wanted me to read for a more significant role. It was surreal.

I went back in, taped the scenes, managed to convince them (and myself) that I could train in martial arts and that was that. You never know what’s gonna happen.

As a foreigner moving from Ireland to the UK, what was the most surprising culture shock? Generally, the English are more reserved and the Irish more extrovert. I do have to remind myself of this and not say everything that comes into my head.

There’s a sizeable Irish cast in this film – Charlie Murphy, Michael McElhatton, Orla Brady, Dermot Crowley, David Pearse. Had your paths already crossed with any of the above?

I had luckily worked with Charlie Murphy a few years previously in an Old Vic production of Disco Pigs by the genius Enda Walsh and we’ve stayed firm friends.

We’ve been in three of the same film projects since and long may that continue.

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What is your fondest memory of filming this year’s TV series Harlots? No joke, probably doing the striptease. It was gas. I love dancing and using my body – we all had a lot of fun that day.

Also working with Jessica Brown Findlay – friend for life – and of course acting with Samantha Morton.

RICHARD STOWLLAN

London-born Irish actor Rory Fleck-Byrne is on a roll, having previously tread the boards on the West End in Rupert Goold’s King Charles III (2014), and in Dublin, Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina at the Abbey (2016) and Noël Coward’s The Vortex at the Gate (2014). He has also appeared in TV series Grantchester, in Vampire Academy and, this October, plays opposite Jackie Chan and Pierce Brosnan in the new London-set big screen crime caper, The Foreigner.

What’s the maddest skill you’ve ever learnt for a role? To squeal like a pig for a production of The Lion in Winter with Trevor Nunn. He said “Rory, it would be great if you could do a pig squeal there”. And I said, “I’ll be able to tomorrow” – cut to me Googling it.

You’d be amazed what comes up.

I think I scared the neighbours.

Leinster. I do it every time I go home. The air is fresh and the views are beautiful. In Dublin I’ll catch a play, or a movie at the IFI, and then a cocktail or two at The Green Hen – my favourite place to go with a notebook or a good novel. Also Farrier & Draper is a must, and Super Miss Sue for the best fish ‘n’ chips. No trip is complete without heading west: I always crave seafood chowder and a Guinness by the sea. I usually get my fix in Salthill, Galway or down in West Cork.

How would you describe your neighbourhood? I recently moved to Waterloo and I love it – I can walk everywhere. It is a mixture of business and culture and feels quite transitory, as it has one of the largest train stations in London. It’s a stone’s throw from great theatres and social hubs, so I’m never bored.

What insights have you gleaned about Ireland since leaving?

That our beautiful isle has produced some of the finest actors, writers, artists, creatives that the world has seen. I really didn’t realise how prolific Ireland was until I left, which is kind of ridiculous and ironic. We have an awful lot to be proud of.

When you come back to Ireland, where are your three go-to haunts? A walk up Mount

If you’d stayed in Ireland, what might your life look like right now? I would have been reading

English at Trinity, I know that.

But on from there? Maybe I’d have written a novel. Maybe have a house in West Cork and a little restaurant … or maybe we’d have been able to keep the band I was in at school and we’d be world famous. I’ll never know.

Who are your three dream, Irish co-stars? Michael Fassbender.

I love his fearlessness and his pursuit in exploring the dark side of human nature. That complexity and depth is what interests me the most. I’d love to work with Cillian Murphy, preferably on stage and on a project with Enda Walsh. I watched their Misterman play three times at London’s National Theatre; it’s when I see pieces of work like that, that I get the feeling I had as a kid of dreaming of being an actor. It’s the raw power, the energy and the opportunity of transformation that touches me and is a reflection of the kind of work I want to be involved in. Oh, and hands down Denise Gough. One word: power.

Check in

ANDRES POVEDA PHOTOGRAPHY

FOOD

FOOD FLIGHT

Andy Ferreira is bar manager at Cask, the acclaimed cocktail bar in Cork city and the reigning World Class – one of the world’s most prestigious and respected mixology programmes – Bartender of the Year for Ireland. Andy places a big emphasis on farm to glass cocktails and, whenever possible, uses locally foraged ingredients. Here, the ace bartender takes us with him on a high-flying fantasy day out of fab food and high-class drinks at his favourite nooks and crannies around the globe.

BREAKFAST

Sweet Maple, San Francisco Nobody does breakfast like the Americans. I spent five years living in San Francisco and it was here that I completely fell in love with eating out for breakfast.

Sweet Maple restaurant in Pacific Heights is in a league of its own. Try the Asparagus Blackstone Omelette, which includes millionaire’s bacon, scallions, asparagus, Parmesan and a Meyer lemon hollandaise sauce. This is the perfect breakfast, best enjoyed alongside a well-made Bloody Mary. sweetmaplesf.com

LUNCH

Bar del Pla, Barcelona I think Barcelona is probably my favourite city in Europe to get lost in. It is such a feast for the senses. I acquired my love of old buildings from my mum who is an architect.

I love the El Born district in Barcelona, it’s close to the beach and has a range of cool bars and restaurants to explore. Bar del Pla is a small but busy spot that offers an authentic tapas experience, across the road from the Picasso Museum. The beef tartare and crispy oxtail with foie gras is extraordinary. They have a tasty sherry selection too. bardelpla.cat

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DINNER

Olive Tree Café, New York I spent my twenties bartending and travelling. In New York, I worked at The Olive Tree Café, an amazing bar that doubles up as a café and comedy club in the heart of the East Village.

Tables are made of thick blackboards, which guests are allowed to draw on. The comedians all hung out there before and after their gigs; the venue had a unique energy. The food is incredible, the best shawarma and falafel I’ve ever tasted. Also, try the borscht, a rich beetroot soup served with a whole potato. +1 212 254 3480

DRINKS

Bramble, Edinburgh Edinburgh’s drinks scene is legendary. Few cities of this size boast such an eclectic mix of cocktail bars. Bramble has been leading the way for such a long time and it continues to set the bar high. The venue is casual, dark and unflashy, with a soundtrack that never strays from hip-hop. Try the St Sebald cocktail, which features Bulleit Rye whiskey infused with seasonal berries, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Benedictine, mulled wine syrup and bitters. bramblebar.co.uk

AA HOTEL OF THE YEAR 2017 With over 350 acres to explore and a wealth of estate activities on offer, Ashford Castle is the perfect destination for fun, adventure and relaxation.

Ashford Castle is also renowned for exceptionale experiences which include: · Fine dining in the spectacular George V Restaurant · Traditional Afternoon Tea in the Connaught Room · Irish Cuisine in the Dungeon

· 20 + activities available on the Estate · Exclusive private tastings and events in the Wine Cellar · Residents only Billiards Room and Cigar Terrace

www.ashfordcastle.com

Check in

JUDGE&JURY

Re-opening a long closed pub at a slight remove from the centre of town might be considered a gamble, but the Northside crew behind Legal Eagle, beside Dublin’s Four Courts, has vast experience reinventing neglected premises; see The Winding Stair, The Woollen Mills, The Yarn and The Washerwoman. Here, we have a vast and accomplished new offering with an emphasis on Irish produce cooked with a splash of creativity, served in an interesting room. We tried, and loved dearly, the seafood platter, shared between five as a starter, even though it would easily have served us well as a modest supper. Greedily devoured main stars were a devilish bone marrow and escargot number, a finely fettled flatbread and a warm, comforting autumnal beef suet pudding with crushed swede. There are more than 36 beers on draught, too, and the wine list is expertly considered. Drop in, eat, drink, be merry ... thelegaleagle.ie

GRUB’S UP

PROJOE PHOTOGRAPHY / JOE OKPAKO

Eoin Higgins shares his near-and-far news from the world of food and drink.

Slane Crazy Slane Castle’s Conyngham clan in Co Meath seem to have hit upon well-measured success through their recent partnership with the family-run BrownForman – of Jack Daniels fame – company. The ménage launched their bold, triple-casked Slane Whiskey last month to lipsmacking acclaim. Expect to see, hear and taste more wonderful music from this canny IrishAmerican kinship going forward. slaneirishwhiskey.com

Doing the Rounds The unique Carousel is a hotly creative foodie hub in Marylebone, London, featuring a 50-seat restaurant and an al fresco space that plays host to a revolving roster of top-shelf, international, guest chef residencies. The upcoming line-up includes Luca Marchini of Modena’s Michelinstarred L’Erba del Re (October 17-21); Lisbon food and wine guru Vitor Claro (October 24 to November 4); the punky crew from Au Passage, Paris’ unique “bistronomy” tapas joint (November 7-11); foraging maestro and ex Nordic Food Lab member, Tobyn Excell (November 21-25) and Keiji Matoba, who’ll be focusing on Japan’s raw washoku (November 28 to December 2). Carousel is also home to art exhibitions, workshops, screenings, live music and comedy events. carousel-london.com

YE OINK! Limerick’s renown as a pork-centric ville is celebrated throughout October as

the city’s burghers come together to participate in Pigtown, a festival saluting all things that induce desirous drooling. Naturally, many of the events and workshops centre on Limerick’s magnificent Milk Market – the Saturday morning shopping, chatting and tasting opportunity for gossiping gourmands and gannets of great grub. One such must-see event presents local author, journalist and “fermentalist”, Val O’Connor, sharing her insight into the wonderful world of fermentation. pigtown.ie

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Pictured above, L – R, are: Chris Bollard, Partner, Anne-Marie Bohan, Head of Technology and Innovation, Deirdre Kilroy, Head of Intellectual Property

Cutting Edge Experience Matheson is pleased to announce the appointment of Deirdre Kilroy and Chris Bollard as partners in our technology and innovation practice. Deirdre and Chris join our team of market leading technology lawyers, led by partner Anne-Marie Bohan.

Matheson’s technology law practice combines legal expertise in IT, data protection, intellectual property, outsourcing, fintech, data protection and cyber security, ensuring our clients get the best advice, when they need it.

Matheson. The law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland.

For further information, please contact Anne-Marie Bohan at anne-marie.bohan@matheson.com

Dublin

London

New York

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Winner, Seven Deals of the Year, including in M&A, Equity Capital Markets, Loans and Financing, and International Financial Services Finance Dublin 2017 European Financial Services Tax Deal of the Year International Tax Review 2017 Matheson is ranked in the FT50 most innovative law firms in Europe Financial Times 2016 Number One Ranked Irish Funds Law Practice acting for 29% of Irish Domiciled Investment Funds by AUM Monterey Insight Ireland Fund Survey 2016

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APPETITE FOR INSTRUCTION Hungry for knowledge in the kitchen? Try a cookery school staycation, suggests Melanie Mullan.

Creating a worldwide name for its prestigious 12-week cookery course, Ballymaloe is constantly evolving. This year saw the launch of the sustainable food programme, a six-week course that encourages and teaches students about growing their own food. On-site rental cottages are available for the course duration. Just passing by? Afternoon demonstrations are open to all. cookingisfun.ie

CLOUGHJORDAN COOKERY SCHOOL, CO TIPPERARY

Group courses for all occasions are offered here and an overnight stay at Cloughjordan includes breakfast in abundance, with ingredients either plucked from the farm or sourced from nearby producers, such as Riot Rye wood-fire bakery. Choose from a wide selection of culinary options or tailor your afternoon so you can improve on any problem areas. cloughjordanhouse.com

DUNBRODY HOUSE HOTEL, CO WEXFORD

Choose from a selection of one-, two- and fiveday courses that cover a range of techniques and recipes for all levels.

Guests can stay in the hotel, or the self-catering guest lodge works well for longer courses. And should your plus one be less enthusiastic about cooking, they can retreat to the extensive spa facilities. dunbrodyhouse.com

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BALLYKNOCKEN HOUSE, CO WICKLOW

Catherine Fulvio’s working farm, lodging and cookery school offers a variety of half-day courses to try on your tod, or in groups, from pasta making to gluten-free baking. And if you crave peace and quiet after a morning slaving over a hot stove, the farmhouse is ideal – a seven-bedroom B&B, it’s surrounded by acres of green fields. The school also hosts team-building trips and events. ballyknocken.ie

BELLE-ISLE CASTLE, CO FERMANAGH

Situated on its own island in the centre of Lough Erne, Belle-Isle makes it easy for guests to unwind.

Not that anyone will be slacking in the kitchens, where the cookery school hosts demos and bespoke classes for groups of eight or more. Throw in a choice of accommodation – coach house cottages, farmyard apartments or the castle itself – and it makes for a tasty retreat. belle-isle.com

ILLUSTRATION BY BRIAN FITZGERALD

BALLYMALOE COOKERY SCHOOL, CO CORK

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FRIGHT CLUB

Choose between scaring yourself silly, pumpkin picking or shaking your tailfeather this Halloween, says Eithne Shortall. he exact origins of Halloween are as hard to grasp as the bodiless spectres that represent the spooky celebration. Most historians, however, trace it back to the Irish pagan feast of Samhain. This was the New Year’s Eve of the Celtic calendar and the one night when the barrier between this world and the next opened; the deceased could pass on, while a few ghosts might just slip back into the realm of the living.

Co Meath, home to one of the main Celtic spiritual centres, claims to be the birthplace of Halloween. So where better to celebrate the season than at Spirits of Meath (October 13 to November 5; spiritsofmeath.com)? Daytime activities for children include picking pumpkins at the Alright Pumpkin Patch, a ghostly garden hunt at the Battle of the Boyne visitor centre and broomstick rides at Causey Farm. Older thrill-seekers can visit Oldbridge Estate in the dark, if they’re brave enough, or put a retro twist on watching scary movies with a trip to the drive-in cinema at Navan Adventure Sports.

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Before there were scary movies, there were scary books – and no novel has sent shivers down as many spines as Dracula. The literary classic and its Dublin-born author are celebrated annually at the Bram Stoker festival (October 27-30; bramstokerfestival.com). The world premiere of Whitby, a stage show that charts Dracula’s sea voyage from Romania to England, runs at Smock Alley theatre in Dublin.

Given that Dracula snacked on the blood of his fellow seafarers, it’s no surprise the play is recommended to audiences aged over 14. Vampyr, the 1932 horror movie, will be screened at the eerie St Patrick’s Cathedral, with a live score performed from the altar. More music is on offer at Vicar Street, one of Dublin’s most popular gig venues. Turning Vampire Mixtape (October 29) gives a Gothic twist to the popular Turning Pirate New Year’s Eve show with the likes of Lisa Hannigan, Niamh Farrell and Saint Sister performing spooky hits.

More music comes from former Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher and popular Irish DJ Annie Mac at Samhain Festival (October 28-

Mine, all mine, mwah ha ha! In addition to the typically scary rollercoasters at Tayto Park are events and activities for children, including pumpkin picking, above.

29). The weekend festival takes place in the unusual, if not particularly bloodcurdling, venue of a 4,000sqm hangar at Weston Airport. Fancydress is strongly encouraged.

The Irish Museum of Modern Art will be transformed into a cirque du freak for Film Fatale’s Danse Macabre Halloween Party (October 28; filmfataleevents.com).

Vintage attire is as mandatory as a trip to the Gothic chapel, where you can dance for your soul to the Monster Mash.

Compared to the birthplace of Halloween and consecrated ground, a theme park dedicated to crisps might seem unauthentic – but Tayto have been making their way into trick-or-treat bags for years. Tayto Park’s Halloween Season (October 20 to November 5; taytopark. ie) includes Ghost Hunters, where children aged over six are asked to investigate strange happenings at Morbid Manor. Adults can gain access when the sun goes down, ride rollercoasters in the dark and enjoy – or endure – a 5D horror movie experience. Expect flashing lights, water jets and leg ticklers. Scaredycats are advised to stay at home.

UNIVERSAL FEAR Fans of American Horror Story, the creepy US horror series, can test their nerve by walking through a maze dedicated to the TV show at Universal Studios Hollywood and Universal Orlando. Around each corner is a scene from a different season: viewers might recognise the

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eponymous Murder House from season one or the operating theatre from Asylum. A tribute to Roanoke, last year’s self-contained story of a couple who find themselves staying on haunted ground, has been added for visitors this Halloween. halloweenhorrornights.com

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BEST RATES

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A TALE IS BREWING

In the heart of Kilkenny city, and Ireland’s Ancient East, is the home of Ireland’s most popular ale. Find out how our famous red ale is made on a guided tour. Discover stories and tales of our heritage, dating back over 300 years.

Your visit will be topped off with a perfectly poured pint of one of our ales, or upgrade to a tasting paddle and try all three.

BOOK TICKETS ONLINE AT WWW.SMITHWICKSEXPERIENCE.COM

HOMEMADE

COSY UP AT HOME WITH THESE SEASONAL HOME-HELPERS, HANDPICKED FROM THE CREAM OF IRISH MAKERS AND DOERS.

1. MAKE SCENTS

Certified organic and handmade in West Cork, Waters + Wild Perfumery’s Rose + Oud encapsulates the best bits of a country garden and a sheikh’s majlis.

One of four striking scents. €95 (50ml) & €35 (10ml) at watersandwild.com

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2. POT LUCK

Hand-thrown in their Dublin 7 studio, the entire Arran Street East pottery range is worth an ogle. We love the pastelpretty Succulent Pot & Underplate – a harmonious marriage of style and substance. €30 at arranstreeteast.ie

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3. MINT MEET

Whiskey and “pepp” (peppermint cordial) is an old school drinks combo making a comeback with the help of Prizefight Whiskey, whose One Inch Punch Peppermint Cordial, €8.99, is whetting palates at select locations nationwide. prizefightwhiskey.com

4. GOLDEN BOARD

The lovely, figurative Two Wooden Horses Sycamore Server is sanded smooth and beautifully finished with mineral oil and beeswax, and has just enough imperfections to make it just right. €65 at twowooden horses.com

5. WALL POWER

Add a splash of zingy graphic colour to your walls with an original print from Hen’s Teeth Prints.

This Project Twins’ piece, Low Subject, is a cheerily arresting addition to any interior suffering from a lack of personality. €300 at hensteethprints.com

6. SOCK IT TO ME

Cosy Woollen Socks made in Donegal exclusively for the trendsetters Makers & Brothers brand – long-lasting and made from a dusty pink (and various other organically coloured) yarn. €15 at makersand brothers.com

VISIT TITANIC BELFAST

Birthplace of rMS titanic and proud Winner of ‘World’s leading TourisT aTTracTion’ World Travel aWards 2016

titanic Belfast features nine interactive galleries that explore the sights, sounds, smells and stories of titanic. the world’s largest titanic visitor experience, it is located at the very place where rMS titanic was designed, built and launched. explore the shipyard, walk the decks, travel to the depths of the ocean and uncover the true legend of titanic in the city where it all began.

Book now at TITANICBELFAST.COM

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican focuses on a photo book, and this season’s new reads, events and downloads.

FIFTY HIGH SEASONS

BY SHANE LYNAM (self-published and available at shanelynamphoto.com; €40) In 1963, France’s President de Gaulle initiated a new urban planning project, “La Mission Racine”, to develop a stretch of coastline between Montpellier and Perpignan into a series of affordable coastal resorts, including an 18 per cent quota of social housing. Leading Modernist architects were hired for each town to construct unique spaces adapted to the local environment. Irish photographer Shane Lynam first found himself in the area in 2005 and, from 2010 to 2016, made regular trips to the seven towns involved, documenting how the area looks today. Fifty High Seasons is a wonderful homage to the South of France that’s a world apart from the conventionally picturesque Côte d’Azur.

FICTION MRS OSMOND by John Banville (Viking, hbk, Kindle) Mrs Osmond was Isabel Archer until she married Gilbert Osmond …

Yes, Banville is the latest author to channel Henry James in this sequel to The Portrait of a Lady. He takes up where James left off – Isabel is in London confronting the truth of her entrapment by her husband and his mistress – in prose subtle enough to suggest the Master.

MEMOIR LOGICAL FAMILY, A MEMOIR by Armistead Maupin (HarperCollins, hbk, audiobook) This archetypal San Franciscan invented the confessional blog avant la lettre with his seminal Tales of the City. The family is the one he was born into and the one he has created through friends and lovers as he moves from his conservative 1950s upbringing in North Carolina, to the jungles of Vietnam, to the liberation of 1970s San Francisco.

DESIGN PAPERCUT THIS BOOK by Boo Paterson (Batsford, pbk) After the adult colouring craze, comes cutting. New York-based Scottish artist and former circus ringmaster Boo Paterson provides a stepby-step guide, concentrating on wildlife.

From a simple kangaroo she will build you up to rainforests and jungles with clear instructions, templates and high-quality pullout paper in a variety of colours.

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DOWNLOAD AUDIOBOOK SEVENTH HEAVEN

FINE PRINT

Frankfurt Book Fair is apparently over 500 years old and today boasts more than 7,000 exhibitors from 100+ countries and more than 270,000 visitors.

Everyone who’s anyone in the book trade will be here this October 11-15, looking for the next big thing and, on the last day, exhibiting publishers sell their books at retail price. Worth it for the €30 weekend ticket. buchmesse.de

If you haven’t yet read George Saunders’ Lincoln in the Bardo, one of the novels of the year – and even if you have – check out the outstanding audio version. In Tibetan Buddhism, the Bardo is the liminal state between death and rebirth; the Lincoln in question isn’t the president but his son, Willie, who died aged 11. This is a book of voices from the grave – over the course of a night, ghosts and historical figures tell their stories, and Willie’s, to climatic resolution. David Sedaris, Lena Dunham, Ben Stiller, Julianne Moore and Saunders himself are among the 166 voices weaving the seven-hour narrative.

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Most exotic place you’ve visited for work? A study-research trip in 2007 to Severobaikal, on the northwestern tip of Lake Baikal, Siberia, which is the world’s deepest and oldest lake. My strongest memory is me anxiously drinking vodka with an extremely intoxicated big bear of a man on a Trans-Siberian train, who revealed that he was the train driver on his break. That, and the taste of dill.

First childhood memory? Me, four years old, greedily shoving the last of the Snack bars into my mouth in front of my seven-year-old brother during a rainy camping holiday in Donegal.

LUCA TRUFFARELLI

Best dance city? Hard to say … New York or London for the range of classes and performances happening all the time. And it’s easy enough to stumble across good dancing nightspots in both.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK One desert island luxury? Some sort of music device, with an endless bank of tunes and also podcasts that I’ve never heard.

Carlow-based choreographer Emma Martin has danced in all corners of the world, including as a member of Germany’s Stuttgart Ballet and Tanztheater Trier. In 2015 she formed United Fall, a theatre-dance company that produced Dancehall and Tundra. Last year she collaborated with Enda Walsh on his Galway International Arts Festival show Arlington and on Caroline Byrne’s The Taming of the Shrew at Shakespeare’s Globe, London. At this year’s Dublin International Theatre Festival (dublintheatrefestival.com) she presents a new work, Girl Song, from October 4-8.

Three fantasy travel companions?

David Lynch, because I could listen to his cartoon voice all day and have him talk away about Transcendental Meditation. Alejandro Jodorowsky, for daily tarot readings and general chats about psychomagic and surrealism.

And Björk, just because she’s Björk.

She might also help me navigate any awkward Dune moments between David and Alejandro. Hmm, maybe I should rethink this combination …

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How would you describe Girl Song? It’s a physical and visual odyssey through four distinct chapters of a life – an elaborate collage of dance, images and text that reveal the guts of what it is to be human in these times. The piece plays out through a female perspective in a kind of deconstructive, open heart surgery exploring how we all cooperate with, and fight against, social order.

Your favourite hotel? Gregans Castle Hotel in the Burren – beautiful surroundings inside and out, and great food.

BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS shop online @ blarney.com

BLARNEY | BUNRATTY | TIPPERARY

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5 GOOD REASONS ... … to wend your way through Washington DC. Eoin Higgins walks the mall.

OFFICIAL SECRETS The city is awash with venerable, noble, noteworthy cultural institutions, and they are all worth your time and attention. However, try some of the quirkier spaces while you’re there too.

The International Spy Museum is one such experience and provides a fascinating look into the hush-hush, on-the-QT world of the undercover.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to WASHINGTON DC daily.

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3. NEAT EATS To get a proper overview of some of the more interesting aspects of the city’s culinary smorgasbord, get onboard with the DC Metro Food Tour (along the U Street Corridor) discovering along the way a variety of cuisine that follows the history of the

neighbourhood, from humble roots to its prominence with the African-American community. See also: Colada Shop, Ben’s Chili Bowl, Q by Peter Chang … and more.

I LIKE BIKE The best way to take in the city’s massively impressive architectural monuments is in the saddle. The Bike and Roll Tour is a particularly good one.

There are four locations dotted around the city – the one at National Mall is a good starting point – and freewheelers can opt to rent bikes and take their own route, or join one of the entertaining and informative tours.

UP STAGED Performing arts also take centre stage in a city where it’s presumed only politics does. Have a night out at the fiveauditorium Kennedy Center, where classical and jazz recitals are world-class. Meanwhile, over at the The Strathmore, get up close and personal with more contemporary acts and performers. For dance and drama bugs, the Atlas Performing Arts Center is the bee’s knees.

ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN

CLINKY DRINKS Try Sax, on 11th Street, for louche glamour, drop in to ChurchKey DC for the craftiest beer selection, or the gorgeous Gibson for the coolest cocktails …

DC is a great town for, if not “partying”, then certainly having cracking nights out with social crowds in interesting surroundings.

WHISKEY THAT LIVES UP TO ITS NAME

L E V A R T VE I S U L EXC

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CHIC CHILLOUT

Elbowroom Escape’s Do Feck All weekenders are exactly what they say on the tin. Lucy White gets her lazy on. t’s past midnight and I’m sat in a hot tub with complete strangers, drinking wine and enveloped in a cloud of pungent woodsmoke beneath a canopy of trees and stars.

Sure, what else would I be doing on a Saturday night?

We’re stewing away somewhere in deepest, darkest Co Wicklow – Donard, specifically, some 20 kilometres south of the better-known Blessington – and these “complete strangers” have actually become fast friends at the Elbowroom Escape, the rural outpost of Stoneybatter’s eponymous wellbeing centre. Its owner Lisa Wilkinson divides her time between here and Dublin 7, and you can see why: wild deer romp in the neighbouring woodland, sheep graze freely on the hillside, the views from the Sugarloaf mountain (not to be confused with its east Wicklow namesake) are nothing short of spectacular – and the tomato plants in her new greenhouse are so abundant that they can’t serve them quick enough.

We’re all here for one of Elbowroom’s quarterly “Do Feck All Weekenders”, which, as the name suggests, offers licence to doss over two nights and three days. Not that manager/yoga teacher Amanda Marren and team are dossing –

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they are busy behind the scenes making our shameless lassitude possible, all the while concocting future plans with Lisa for pottery sheds, camomile lawns and themed retreats. It’s a deceptively serious business, managing the individual expectations of strangers thrown together in the middle of nowhere.

But with Amanda’s light, convivial touch, we are kept fed, watered and plied with an arsenal of gin.

Wilkinson purchased the exhikers’ hostel, and its sizeable land, around a year ago, transforming its dated, pine interiors into something far more chic and conducive to holistic therapy devotees. It can accommodate up to 16 guests in smart, incredibly comfortable en suite bedrooms (doubles to dorms), and the former common room is now a yoga studio cum chillout space cum whatever you want it to be, and where we intermittently slob around on giant corduroy beanbags. A wood-burning stove is the focal point of conversations that ebb and flow around whatever reading material we’ve each brought with us and whatever herbal tea, coffee or honesty-bargoodies we’ve pilfered from the cosy wood cabin, where all our meals are served.

Between freshly prepared vegetarian dishes, we’re free to do

Bean and heard – Elbowroom Escape’s next Do Feck All Weekender is on November 24-26 and costs €199, including all meals and soft drinks. BYOB is perfectly acceptable.

A 60-minute massage costs €60. theelbowroom escape.com

whatever we please, be it hill walking, yoga, reading, writing, chatting, binge-watching Ozark in our rooms.

Come Saturday afternoon – after a challenging but incredibly rewarding hike up the Sugarloaf – I’ve gone the full sloven and am wafting around in my pyjamas. In fact, I don’t take them off until it’s Hot Tub O’Clock.

Why bother?

I do, though, make time for a massage administered in a spare guest room, the existence of which is signalled by the welcoming, unmistakable waft of lavender essential oils. It is Sue’s chamber of chill. Her treatment table is heated, creating a cocoon-like effect from the inevitable downpour outside. Warm hands with slow, considered movements ease my knotty shoulders – as if I could possibly be any more relaxed. But then, at this exact moment, I don’t know that I’ll later conclude a glorious weekend drinking wine in a hot tub in the woods.

WHAT TO PACK Zara Mohair Sweater, €39.95 at zara.com

Cloon Keen Spiced Bark Candle, €40 at cloonkeen atelier.com

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Evercreatures Wellies, €43 at ohmywelly.ie

Jo Malone English Oak and Hazelnut Cologne (100ml), €109 at Brown Thomas

Grace by Paul Lynch, €14.99 at dubray books.ie M&S Collection Swimsuit, €48 at marksandspencer.ie

Tin Cloth Extra Long Seafolly Jacket, £140 at seasaltcornwall.co.uk

Spoil someone special this Christmas with a gift voucher from Castle Leslie Estate.

For more information on our gift vouchers please visit www.castleleslie.com where you can choose from our wide array of Christmas gift ideas.

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inter is a very romantic time at Castle Leslie Estate. We invite you to join us for an indulgent winter break during this very special season.

Ov er nightEscape Escape Overnight

Cou ntry Getaway Country Getaway

One nights bed bedand andhearty heartyIrish Irish One nights breakfast breakfast for two peopledinner to include for two people to include in the 2AA Rosettein award winning Snaffles Restaurant dinner the 2AA Rosette award winning Snaffles From €140 pps atRestaurant the Lodge From €115 pps at the Lodge From €150 pps at the Castle From €130 pps at the Castle

Two Irishbreakfast Twonights nightsbed bedand and hearty hearty Irish breakfast for two include for two people to people includeto dinner on one evening theevening 2AA Rosette award dinner oninone in the 2AA winning Snafflesaward Restaurant Rosette winning Snaffles Restaurant From €215 pps at the Lodge From €160 pps at the Lodge From €220 pps at the Castle From €190 pps at the Castle

*Rates quoted are valid in December Weekend supplements apply.

8.2014. aremidweek valid midweek in 2017.

Subject to availability.

Weekend supplements apply.

2015 dates are subject to increases.

Tel: +353 (0)4788100

Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough, Monaghan Tel: (0) 47 88100 Tel:+353 +353-47-88100 Email: info@castleleslie.com www.castleleslie.com

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THE RIVER SEAT Visit an obligatory but no less beautiful windmill – Molen De Adriaan Windmill (Papentorenvest 1-A, + 31 23 545 0259; molenadriaan.nl) – before taking a riverside seat at StadStrand de Oerkap, which has its own sandy (man-made) “beach”.

Watch the boats cruise along the Spaarne river while tucking into delicious pizzas and craft beers.

(Harmenjansweg 95, +31 23 574 9716; oerkap.nl)

Haarlem AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

Escape the bustle of Amsterdam with a day-trip to this prettiest of cities, urges Niall Barry.

MORE ABOUT NIALL Originally from Dublin, Amsterdam-based Niall moved to the Netherlands in late 2013 to work in digital platform security, where he has 15 different nationalities on his team. Having spent his first two years living in Haarlem, some 35km west of Amsterdam, Niall shares here what he misses most about the beautiful city that captured his heart.

THE MUST-VISIT Located in the heart of Haarlem, the Grote Kerk church is a special place in that its oldest sections date back to the 15th century, and both Händel and Mozart have performed here. Its 9pm bells are surprisingly soothing, even if they do last for 30 minutes, and – gluttony alert – it’s near Dessertbar, where the homemade New York cheesecake is as good as the gezellig, the Dutch word for a cheery ambience. (Warmoesstraat 4, +31 23 524 4740; dessertbar.nl)

THE NIGHTSPOT It would be a sin to not check out Jopenkerk, a church that has been transformed into a brewpub. It serves heavenly beers, made with centuriesold recipes, plus seasonal new reboots. But to get a real taste of Haarlem, book a “Tasting Divine Beer” slot, which is available all weekend and is well worth the hangover!

(Gedempte Voldersgracht 2, +31 23 533 4114; jopenkerk.nl)

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THE RETAIL THERAPY A short walk from the train station, in Kruisstraat, find concept store Kloffie (Kruisstraat 6, +31 23 551 5385; kloffiehaarlem.nl). Think Urban Outfitters but more affordable and unique to Haarlem. Also, save the date, on December 9-10 the city transforms into a magical Christmas Market (kerstmarkt.com) in Grote Markt Square, with more than 300 stalls.

THE RESTAURANT Hands down, In ’t Goede Uur – which translates as “The Good Hour” – has the best fondue in town.

Its quirky Medieval décor is a perfect setting for a romantic dinner and seasonal cheeses help keep things interesting for regulars. There are also cooking workshops for those who want to recreate the experience at home. (Korte Houtstraat 1, +31 23 531 1174; hetgoedeuur.nl)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to AMSTERDAM up to four times daily, and from Cork daily.

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Experience the sights, sounds and smells of a fully operational urban distillery, at the home of Teeling Whiskey - right in the heart of Dublin City.

Sample Teeling Whiskey’s award winning range as well as a selection of distillery exclusive expressions, or relax with a hand-crafted cocktail at the distillery Bang Bang Bar.

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Organic grassfed Burren beef.

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Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2017. The Sunday Times ‘ely offers the greatest wines from the world’s greatest winemakers.’

McKennas’ Guides 100 Best Restaurants in Ireland 2015, 2016 & 2017 ‘for having one of the most outstanding restaurant wine lists in the world.’

Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence 2015, 2016 & 2017 So drop in, along with our cocktail and craft beer lists, our newest wine list is our most accessible yet.

ely bar & grill IFSC, Dublin 1. T: 01 672 0010 ely wine bar 22 Ely Place, Dublin 2. T: 01 676 8986 www.elywinebar.com wine tastings: 01 678 7867

MEDALLION MEN Cork rowers Paul and Gary O’Donovan have been slogging away for years but it was the Rio Olympics – and in particular their candid banter – that shot them to global stardom. More than a year on, the brothers reveal how much their lives have changed – and also how little, in the fiercely competitive world of rowing.

WORDS CLÍONA FOLEY PHOTOGRAPHS TRISTAN HUTCHINSON

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INTERVIEW

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inning medals in sunny climates and creating mirth and mayhem on the sofas of chat-shows may appear second nature to Olympic rowing heroes Gary and Paul O’Donovan but their natural habitat is very different. Ireland’s National Rowing Centre, on the banks of the Taiscumar Reservoir, is hidden deep in Farran Woods, a spectacular spot 24 kilometres from Cork city; however, it can be bitter and blowy and today it’s squally with 32km/h winds. This is where you’ll find our Olympic heroes slogging their guts out, twice-a-day, sometimes seven days-a-week.

A year on since their silver-medal victory, not that much has changed. Paul (23), opposite, returned to University College Dublin to complete his physiotherapy degree and now plans to assist in some post-grad research on shoulder

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injuries in University College Cork (UCC). He has also moved back in with their gran in nearby Ballincollig, where they lived for intensive pre-Rio training.

Gary (24), above, who already had a marketing degree, took some taster classes in UCC this year and has just been accepted to do a two-year accelerated law degree there.

He’s now sharing a house in the city with Skibbereen’s latest European champions, the (rowing) lightweight pair of Shane O’Driscoll and Mark O’Donovan (no relation).

“Great fun! The two lads are lunatics like. People think we’re a bit off our heads but these two boys are absolutely crazy!” he chuckles.

The only real change to their lives since Rio was the demands being made on their time, so they got an agent to handle the huge volume of requests. “Up to Christmas it was hectic enough,” Gary says. “We talked about it and figured if there was ever a time to get things done it was

four years out from the next Olympics. Plus we had a huge opportunity to promote rowing, which we really love. We probably decline 99 per cent of things that we’re asked to do and we’re still recklessly busy.”

One trip they had to refuse was to Chicago last November for Ireland’s famous win over the All-Blacks, a massive regret as they’re huge rugby fans and Paul, in particular, played a fair bit in his youth. What else? “The Patrick’s Day Parade in Perth!” he grins. “Sure we couldn’t even do the Patrick’s Day Parade in Skibbereen because I was home that weekend and we had to train.”

Their impish good humour may have made them a national treasure but, since May, it has, literally, been all hands on deck again as their shockingly calloused palms attest. Rowing has European and World Championships every year, as well as three huge World Cup regattas, so they couldn’t rest on their laurels. Immediately after Rio,

Paul won the world lightweight single sculls title. This year they’ve already won silver at Europeans in the lightweight double sculls, made two of three podiums at World Cups and, as we speak, are in the throes of final preparations for the World Championships. (Sadly, Gary later pulls out due to a virus, leaving Paul competing in the singles).

Theirs is a spartan lifestyle and so exhausting that they don’t even watch television. If they’re not studying it’s train, rest, train, sleep, repeat. Ask them about some of their pinch-me moments since Rio, like the night they went clubbing in “Coppers” in Dublin with RTÉ’s Ryan Tubridy and meeting BBC’s Graham Norton, and Paul deadpans: “Graham Norton? No, he wasn’t in Coppers. Well not that night anyway!” But what about the night they appeared with Michael Fassbender and James McAvoy on one of the most famous couches in TV-land? “It was a New Year’s Eve special so it was actually pre-recorded three weeks AERLINGUS.COM |

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INTERVIEW

CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND EUROPCAR FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

before,” Gary explains. “We were told to turn up an hour beforehand and we went out for dinner with them afterwards but that was about it.” Were you nervous? “Our job is rowing like, so if we feck up on the television who gives a damn?” muses Paul, confirming his brother’s opinion that he is “the most brutally honest man in the world!”

Boozy nights are not really their thing. “The thing about alcohol is that it goes with late nights ... and late nights are a problem for us with training,” Gary says. “Well alcohol is a problem too in itself,” quips Paul. “The lifestyle we have is particularly regimented and still is,” Gary explains. “We come out here twice a day. Four to five hours are consumed in the physical effort of training. The recovery time needed after that is severe altogether.

Between training and preparing food to replace that lost energy you’d be wrecked tired.”

All that training, literally sitting in each other’s laps. Don’t they ever get sick of the sight of each other and have a bust-up? Up until their mid-teens they happily clouted each other. “Sure every youngster does it!” Gary laughs. “And we’re so close in age,” Paul agrees. Yet they are very different characters. Paul is droll and relaxed but obsessive about training. Gary credits that

obsession and Paul’s challenging of Skib’s rowing stars to train 200km a-week as the reason they’ve all become world-class. Gary’s the hyper, outgoing joker yet, when it comes to the boat, he’s the one who wants perfect technique. That famous “Pull like a dog” mantra is Paul’s who today adds, “you don’t win rowing medals for aesthetics.”

Trying to find perfect synchronisation and balance with the boat is the only thing they argue about. Their last big shouting match, tellingly, was on the warmup day of their last pre-Olympic World Cup. “We were just roaring at each other! I’d say it must have been a sight to see!” Gary chuckles.

“There was a thunderstorm on the way and the whole lake was after clearing but us,” Paul recalls, as they collapse laughing at the memory. “I was in such a fit of rage!” Gary admits, revealing that he seriously thought about hopping out of the boat and swimming back.

“He got thick, just sat there, stopped rowing completely and I had to row us home the last 1,200 metres.”

That was the storm before the calm. Then came glory and madness, and now equilibrium has been restored. Chalk and cheese they may be but it’s that ying and yang that makes the O’Donovan brothers so great – in and out of the boat.

THE LIKES OF THE O’DONOVANS …

FOOD Paul: “We have to eat around 6,000-7,000 calories a day because of all the endurance training, so we bulk up our porridge with peanut butter, eat lots of steak, liver and pasta and even tubs of Ben & Jerry’s. It’s funny. If we’re in a restaurant and go to order a dessert, someone will be like ‘you can’t have dessert, you’re an athlete?’ and we’d be like ‘if anyone can have a dessert it’s us!’”

BOOKS Gary: “I’ve just read The Art of War by Sun Tzu. I bought it online and it was only the size of a key-ring. I read it in a day. I didn’t understand a lot of it though so I’ll have to read it again. Paul reads fiction but I prefer to educate myself with something real.”

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MUSIC Paul: “Irish traditional is our preference – Luke Kelly, Christy Moore, The Dubliners and Séan Keane. We’ve an uncle in Ennis and I got down to a day of the Fleadh there this year.

But when we’re spending four hours on a rowing machine in winter, you couldn’t listen to trad all the time so we’d have pop, rap, dance, pretty much anything in the playlist.”

PLACE Gary: “Roaring Water Bay, West Cork. I’m a bit fascinated by water of any kind. Our dad’s farm is just one field from the sea and it’s looking right over at Jeremy Irons’ castle. If someone wanted to visit anywhere in Ireland, I’d say just get a boat, go around all the islands there and head to the beach with a fishing rod and a barbecue.”

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THE SAUCEPOT WHO Redmond Cabot WHAT Cabots of Westport Redmond Cabot’s granny was of the war generation, handing down a “waste not want not” attitude to her daughter Penny, Redmond’s mother. “When I went shopping with mum she always bought what was fresh and best, and then took it home to make a meal out of it. Food was seasonal – you got whatever the producers had brought in that day.”

This principle stuck with Redmond when he started making and selling sauces at Westport Country Market in 2010, aiming to become synonymous with 100 per cent fresh, natural foods. Now available in more than 100 outlets across Ireland, Cabots products range from smoked mackerel paté to a chilli lime hummus. The former wine merchant and restaurateur also aims to “make beetroot sexy” with his personal favourite, a beetroot and sage dip. Like much of his food, getting started was an organic process.

“The local SuperValu asked me to sell my produce in their store, it just grew from there. I never expected I would sell food as a business but such is life. As the business grows, the greatest challenge is to hold on to my integrity and passion for delicious nutritional food.”

Favourite spot for a night out?

“La Bella Vita, Westport – really warm and cosy, great atmosphere, with an Italian/Irish menu, and the ever-friendly Ezio at front of house.

It ticks all the boxes for me.”

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MAKING

THE GRADE Small food producers are flourishing across Ireland, with consumers keen to support native companies and ingredients. We chat to a few graduates of SuperValu’s Food Academy Programme.

WORDS INGMAR KIANG PHOTOGRAPHS ANTHONY WOODS

H

ardly a day goes by without a food producer announcing a new product, their launches invariably garnished with the words “fresh, seasonal and local”, “organic” and “artisanal”. Thankfully, here in Ireland – with our famously green pastures, variety of indigenous fruit and veg, and strong farming traditions – there is some real substance to those marketing buzzwords.

But for many small producers, creating a pesto or paté is the easy part – the real challenge comes in accessing wider distribution and ramping up production while maintaining quality. SuperValu’s Food Academy helps selected start-ups break into

the big league, with a mentoring programme to guide them through each step. It’s a winwin for all concerned: the producers gain valuable advice and entry into a nationwide network, while SuperValu – an Aer Lingus partner through its AerClub loyalty programme – gets to stock high-quality, Irish food products unavailable in other supermarkets.

To date, the Food Academy Programme has been a huge success: 98 per cent of participants feel it has been “very beneficial” in developing their business, while 85 per cent expect to employ new staff over the next 12 months. Here we meet some of the people whose pride and passion have created a new generation of uniquely Irish food brands.

PEOPLE | THE FOOD PRODUCERS

THE OAK-SMOKER WHO Sean Nolan WHAT Union Hall Smoked Fish Originally set up by John and Elmar Nolan and now run by their son Sean, Union Hall Smoked Fish has been operating from the fishing village of Union Hall, West Cork, for almost 30 years. Despite the challenges presented by a global increase in the price of salmon, Sean has seen his business increase over the past few years, thanks in no small part to its relationship with SuperValu.

“The Food Academy Programme has helped us grow as a company and we are working with other local Food

Academy suppliers to help grow the ‘West Cork’ brand.” His smokehouse makes a range of oaksmoked fish products of the highest quality – from smoked salmon to Irish-caught tuna to fish patés – all coming from clean Atlantic waters and prepared without the use of additives.

Fittingly, for a man whose earliest memories involve fishing for mackerel with his late father, Sean’s personal Union Hall favourite is the smoked mackerel: “Fantastic flavour, bursting in omega 3s.”

Favourite spot for a night out?

“There are excellent places in West Cork – Glandore Inn, Dintys Bar, The Church restaurant and Mary Ann’s.”

THE MORNING PERSON WHO Seamus Tighe WHAT Everest Granola A few years ago, young entrepreneur Seamus Tighe, from Castleknock, Dublin, spotted a gap in the market.

Like many of us, he found himself without enough time for breakfast no matter how early the alarm goes off, yet feeling guilty when taking a quick option or skipping the meal entirely.

“Talking to friends and family, I realised a lot of them felt the same. I decided to create an alternative to what was already on the market – like something you’d actually make at home, with

high quality ingredients, but ready to eat on-the-go.” His simple solution, Everest Granola cups – named after his love of mountaineering – are full of the proteins, fibres and minerals that today’s market demands. “Shops are really catering for people who are busy and the on-the-go food market is becoming more health-oriented.” The former accountancy student is also keen to provide value: competitors offer 120g-150g granola cups, while Everest has a full 200g in each serving.

“You’ll definitely be full after it.”

Favourite spot for a night out? “The Step Inn at the foot of the Dublin mountains – fantastic food, great atmosphere – and they pull a fine pint of Guinness.”

SuperValu is a partner of AerClub, the Aer Lingus loyalty programme. When doing your everyday shopping in SuperValu you can collect Real Rewards points that can be converted into Avios points – so now you can turn your shopping into flights for you and your family.

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PEOPLE | THE FOOD PRODUCERS

THE BAKER WHO Ann Marie Walsh WHAT Tipperary Kitchen Ann Marie and her husband Brian launched their bakery in Holycross, Co Tipperary in the heady days of 2006, just before the recession hit.

“Boy, did it hit hard,” says Ann Marie, “but with local support, we sold our way through the worst of it and stuck to our guns, with good oldfashioned customer service and the use of high-quality ingredients.” The proud maker of Luscious Holycross Chocolate Biscuit Cake and Marvellous Meringues had an idyllic country childhood, and she remembers bringing the evening

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tea to “The Men” working in the fields – batch bread sandwiches and wedges of cake, to be washed down with sugary tea from a Power’s whiskey bottle. The rural traditions survive in Tipperary Kitchen products, all of which are made with old-school methods: meringues hand-piped and slow-baked to retain crunch and sweetness; chocolate biscuit cake baked in small batches, with butter from the local co-op. Why bake in small batches? “We just think our products taste better that way, and our customers tend to agree.”

Favourite spot for a night out? “Mikey Ryan’s has just re-opened in Cashel and I agree with all the rave reviews. Like ourselves – stylish and fun!”

THE PHOENIXES WHO Alison Stroh and Aaron O’Donohue WHAT Dr Coy’s Alison originally met Dr Johannes Coy while working in Germany, having heard of his research into diet and cancer.

“I made contact with Dr Coy and we subsequently began working together on the development of a range of healthy chocolate for children.” Back home, she enlisted her brother Aaron’s help in launching a range of “free from” products, based on Dr Coy’s ideas, including an award-winning organic coconut oil, organic coconut flour, stevia for baking and an organic vegetable bouillon. However, the journey from research to retail wasn’t all plain sailing: their warehouse went up in flames in 2015. “Within a few hours we’d lost all of our stock, and we had just been listed for nationwide distribution. It was critical not to be out of stock for any length of time.” Fully recovered from the setback, the brand has gone from strength to strength, with wins for their patented Nutritional Chocolate Bars at the 2016 Irish Quality Food Awards fuelling plans for UK expansion.

Favourite spot for a night out?

Alison: “Cavistons in Glasthule is my number one, while the Fern House in Kilmacanogue is great for a romantic evening.” Aaron: “Taste at Rustic, Dublin – their sashimi is amazing.”

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THE HERBIVORES WHO David and Stephen Flynn WHAT The Happy Pear Having opened as a modest veg shop in Greystones, Co Wicklow in 2004, the Happy Pear has become one of the best-known Irish food stories of recent years. Its co-founders, twin brothers David and Stephen Flynn, were relatively late converts to vegetarianism: 54 |

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“We used to be total jocks.” But they now go about their mission – “to inspire people to live happier, healthier lives” – with relentless energy, rising for dawn swims at the local beach before spreading their meat-free gospel with evangelical zeal. Simply finding time to do everything is the biggest challenge, David says. “There are three parts to our business: the cafés and food stores; producing food for sale in other retailers, and the media side involving our online courses, cookbooks,

YouTube and social media. Plus we both have young families – the trickiest part is juggling it all.” That juggling is set to continue: the twins have just launched Nuts About Choc, a new hazelnut spread and completed another surefire bestseller cookbook, all the while planning to open another outlet early next year.

Favourite spot for a night out? “Sorry, but we hardly ever go out! After a typical day, we just relax at home and cook for our families.”

J E W E L L E R S

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DESTINATION | EAST CORK

Feast is FEAST OF EDEN Local produce for local people has long been a source of pride in East Cork. But its food markets, restaurants and even potteries are fast-gaining a worldwide reputation.

WORDS MELANIE MULLAN PHOTOGRAPHS TRISTAN HUTCHINSON

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DESTINATION | EAST CORK

O

nce upon a time, my dad and I would while away Wednesday afternoons waiting for my brothers to finish their after-school activities at Farmgate Restaurant and Country Store Midleton (farmgate.ie). Coffee and cake for himself; a plain meringue, coke and a glass of ice for me. You could not find a happier little girl than on those days.

Returning to the restaurant years later, I find that little has changed; the delicious desserts, stone sculptures by Corkman Michael Quane – even some of the staff are the same. Tucking into a seafood platter and sipping on

a glass of white wine, I decide that, here, familiarity breeds not contempt but total content. Sally O’Brien Llewellyn is the second generation owner of Farmgate, taking over the business from her mother, Maróg O’Brien, who opened the café in 1983. It remains true to Maróg’s vision of sourcing ingredients from local producers and suppliers and epitomises how food has always been a part of everyday life for the people of East Cork.

While “locavore” is a trend in the world’s major cities, it has been ever thus here, as demonstrated by Saturday mornings at Midleton Farmers Market at Townparks.

Buttery lobster rolls from The Lobster Man, sausage sandwiches from Woodside Farm Pork and Ethiopian cuisine from Emye are

all on offer, with locals stocking up on their weekly shop from their favourite vendors.

One such stall is Ballinrostig Cheese (ballinrostighomestead. com), run by husband and wife team, Stephen Bender and Michele Cashman – and if he didn’t tell you he was Dutch, Stephen could easily pass for a local, with his twanged Cork colloquialisms. But you can take the man out of the Netherlands but not the Netherlands out of the man ... and exceptional gouda is their forte. Using milk from nearby Ballymacoda, they create a variety of goudas, using cumin, nettle and dillisk. It’s an intensive, at times laborious, process that the couple laughingly claim “is like having babies”.

They sell at farmers markets

Previous pages, The Café at the End of the Shop in Ballymaloe, left, and right, cupcakes and coffee at Monty’s café. Clockwise from top, part of the extensive grounds and gardens at Ballymaloe Cookery School; Stephen Bender pressing his gouda; Sally O'Brien Llewellyn, owner of Farmgate Restaurant.

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DESTINATION | EAST CORK

throughout Cork and also supply to restaurants, including Sage in Midleton (sagerestaurant.ie) where chef and owner Kevin Aherne has a strict “12 mile” ethos: nearly 90 per cent of his ingredients are sourced within this radius and portraits of his suppliers take pride of place on Sage’s walls. His casual dining offering next door, The Greenroom, serves breakfast, lunch and supper, utilising the fresh herbs, tomatoes and even grapes that are flourishing in the outdoor courtyard where diners sun-worship during summer.

Such is Aherne’s passion for sourcing local that a number of his serving dishes are made by ceramicist Susan Herlihy (craftyhands.info), whose studio and workshop is located on Coach Horse Lane in Midleton. When not teaching her tricks of the trade, she’s digging for clay across East Cork as part of her new “Coastal” project.

This clay is then treated and left to dry before being sculpted into submission – a process that takes up to three months.

Food and handicrafts also combine at Stephen Pearce 60 |

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Pottery (theshanagarrypottery.com), 15 kilometres away in Shanagarry, which houses an eponymous café (thecafeatstephenpearce.com) that’s run by Christine Crowley and, naturally, showcases the worldrenowned Pearce earthenware.

On occasion you’ll find potters at their wheels next door, carefully working clay to create the muchloved cups and plates. And it’s no surprise that its Golden Bean coffee (thegoldenbean.ie) is roasted down the road – in the grounds of Ballymaloe House, by Marc Kingston, where I find him hard at work, developing the brand to be retailed online.

As a long-time champion of locally made, locally sourced produce, it makes sense that Marc’s enterprise is at Ballymaloe House (ballymaloe.ie), whose front-of-house manager Fern Allen – the youngest daughter of its propagator, Myrtle – says that “people knock on the door with what they’ve collected.

We’ve a lady from Ballycotton that brought us chanterelle mushrooms yesterday.” Also on the grounds, in the kitchen at the Café at the

Opposite page, clockwise from far left, recently qualified cooper Killian O’Mahony, who speaks passionately about his work at the Old Jameson Distillery in Midleton; Luke Chambers catching some waves on Inch Beach; lunch time at The Café at Stephen Pearce Pottery. Above from left, grazing on the grounds at Ballymaloe Cookery School; Susan Herlihy digs her clay from various areas throughout East Cork; coffee roasting at The Golden Bean. Below, views across to Ballycotton Lighthouse on the way to the Ballycotton cliff walk – a popular coastal stroll.

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DESTINATION | EAST CORK

End of the Shop, owner Dervilla O’Flynn produces delicious tarts, cakes and a simple yet flavoursome lunch menu. It’s impossible not to be impressed by the work that happens here and at Ballymaloe Cookery School and Farm (cookingisfun.ie), where rambling chickens, a greenhouse that houses up to 60 different types of vegetables – even a folly, whose interior is decorated by shells – are star attractions, as are the cooking courses themselves (see page 24).

But don’t leave East Cork without a visit to Cobh. There, Frank Hederman has made a global name for himself smoking organic Irish salmon in a traditional timber smokehouse for more than 35 years (frankhederman.com). As well as national farmers markets, he has supplied to the likes of London’s Fortnum and Mason, Selfridge’s and Harrods – and even Queen Elizabeth for her 80th birthday celebrations.

See where the magic happens at the Hederman smokery, which Frank runs with his wife, Caroline.

The smell of woodsmoke lingers on my clothes as I drive home – a sensory manifestation of my road-trip down memory lane. But I’m not complaining as I’ve also left with a piece of Frank’s salmon and half a bag of potatoes – mouthfuls of East Cork that sate the appetite and feed the soul.

CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND EUROPCAR FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

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Clockwise from top left, the final stages of salmon smoking at Frank Hederman’s smokehouse; head potter Ron Barrett at Stephen Pearce Pottery, where he has worked for 28 years; cheers at Garryvoe Hotel; enjoying the sunshine and the views over Ballycotton bay.

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DESTINATION | EAST CORK

SLEEP OCEAN VIBES A recently revamped Garryvoe Hotel offers the perfect setting to enjoy seaside views. Vibrant furnishings have enlivened guest rooms, while dark blue velvet and sandy yellows at its Samphire restaurant echo beachy hues. One part that remains unchanged in this four-star – and rightly so – is The Cave pub, where Sunday evenings involve live music by the open fire. Rooms from €92. (Garryvoe, 021 464 6718; garryvoehotel.com) EXPANSIVE If a weekend of R&R is what you seek, escape to the five-star Castlemartyr Resort, for its golf course, spa, large indoor pool and beauty salon, set on extensive, leafy grounds (there is also excellent self-catering accommodation). Raise a glass to its 10th birthday this year, beside the fire at Knight Bar. Rooms from €150. (Castlemartyr, 021 421 9000; castlemartyrresort.ie)

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BACK TO NATURE Tennis in the morning, golf in the afternoon, a swim before dinner … there’s no shortage of activities for sports lovers at the five-star Fota Island Resort. Interiors are elegant; there are also self-catering lodges for larger groups or longer stays. In fact it’s a perfect fit for families with older kids, with on-site Fota Island Adventure offering kayaking, SUP, archery, obstacle courses and orienteering. B&B from €112. (Fota Island, 021 488 3700; fotaisland.ie)

DRINK SMART COFFEE It’s a family affair in Monty’s café where Lisa O’Brien produces absolutely delicious baked goods and sandwiches in the kitchen with her mother, while her sister Michelle is serving equally delicious Badger & Dodo coffee in a selection of delightful never-the-same crockery. (Roxboro Mews, 021 463 4293)

HIGH SPIRITS Whiskey lovers will love the extensive options at JJ Coppinger’s, the sleek interiors make for a perfect setting for a post-work tipple.

Weekends are a slightly more upbeat affair with live bands until the early hours – bring your dancing shoes. (55 Main Street, 021 463 4914; jjcoppingers.ie) SOCIABLE PINTS A pint of Beamish – forget about Guinness here – is always on the cards at the Blackbird in Ballycotton, a place that comes alive on weekends with live music and DJs. Here you will find yourself chatting to people from all parts of the world.

(Main Street, 086 850 2383; blackbirdballycotton.com)

SMART TIPS CATCH A WAVE In East Cork, you’re never far from water.

Down at Inch Beach, Swell Surf School’s Luke Chambers and team run surfing classes, paddle

boarding and coasteering trips to suit all ages and abilities.

(Whitegate, 087 980 3206; swellsurfschool.ie) TIME TRAVEL Step back in time with an entertaining and informative tour of Youghal Clock Gate Tower, which explores the town’s history and legends.

What was once a jail has been transformed into a fun afternoon for all, the views from the top an added bonus. (Youghal, 024 207 69; youghalclockgate.ie) GOLD RUSH The scent of barley hangs in the air at the Old Jameson Distillery. While Bow Street, Dublin is the original home of the whiskey, production takes place on the Midleton site. Its behind-the-scenes tours offer insights into the history of the brand, cooperage and also a visit to the micro distillery where taste experiments and blending take place. (Distillers Walk, 021 461 3594; jamesonwhiskey.com)

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DESTINATION | CORNWALL

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Cornish DELIGHTS

Cornwall has a worldwide reputation for its homegrown produce and rightly so. Its food and drinks scene is peerless and the scenery exceptional. Pack the loosest of waistbands for one of the UK’s finest culinary tours.

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS KYLE TUNNEY

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DESTINATION | CORNWALL

I

“

can’t go down for breakfast. I just can’t eat any more!” I wail, my belly glutted with Porthilly oysters, fresh lobster and Tunisian orange cake, from the night before. It’s day six in Cornwall and I have reached peak food.

Frankly, it should have come earlier, given that we’ve literally eaten, and drank, our way around this most south-westerly part of England, where local produce is so good it has protected status: the Cornish pasty, Cornish clotted cream and Cornish sardines. Naturally, we’ve tried all these, too, so I am now Woman vs Food and, this morning, I admit defeat.

Our gastronomic adventure started in Padstow – where else? – that’s synonymous with super chef and restaurateur Rick Stein. It’s abuzz with fellow gluttons gorging on fish ‘n’ chips, Cornish pasties and ice cream.

The “Do Not Feed the Seagulls” signs were no surprise – we had been warned – however, the hair braiding, temporary tattoo and Dreamcatcher stalls lining the harbour are at odds with the pretty old fishermen’s cottages. Still, we weren’t there to have our hair culturally reappropriated, we were there to work – at the Rick Stein Cookery School (rickstein.com).

Under the tutelage of chef lecturers Sam Beech and Nick Evans, we did a full-day fish and shellfish course, preparing and cooking four dishes: clams with beer, black beans and ginger; prawn caldine; lemon sole with

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a lemon butter sauce, and sea bream with sauce vierge. Each one was demonstrated by the lads and then, in pairs, we made our own – fish gutting, filleting and all – becoming gradually emboldened by a steady stream of Sauvignon Touraine. Our Rick Stein experience concluded with dinner at his venerable Seafood Restaurant (also a classy B&B – see ‘Sleep’ on page 74). My main course in particular was exceptional: chargrilled sea bass with olive oil, minted spuds, runner beans and pepper ribbons, but it was the vanilla butter that made the flavours sing.

All meals in Cornwall seemed to start with indescribably good bread. And at the Michelin-starred Paul Ainsworth at No.6 (paul-ainsworth.co.uk) on Padstow’s Middle Street, it was accompanied by a trio of evenly matched butters (hello caramelisation!). Staff were friendly, allowing me to mix and match between the à la carte, vegetarian and vegan menus, each dish delivering a surprise at every mouthful. Petit fours arrived as a Box of Delights – a wooden chest loaded with sweet treasures. That Ainsworth’s senior sous chef, Chris McClurg, is from Belfast was the icing on the truffle.

Previous pages, chef Sam Beech, left, who is also a lecturer at the Rick Stein Cookery School, and right, the quintessentially Cornish village of Mousehole.

Top left, arty bites at Paul Ainsworth at No.6, where Belfast’s Chris McClurg, above, is sous chef. Above left, cows moo-ve to greener pastures.

Handcrafted LUXUrY

Drumleck, Castlebellingham, Co. Louth (Exit 15 of M1, only 45mins from Dublin & Belfast) T: 042 937 2625 E: info@oconnorsofdrumleck.ie Showroom by appointment only

www.oconnorsofdrumleck.ie

DESTINATION | CORNWALL

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The restaurant also offered our second, glorious taste of Camel Valley rosé, whose family-run winery (camelvalley.com) we’d visited the day before and had a fun and fact-packed tour. Located in rural Bodmin, its owners, Bob and Annie Lindo, have been producing wine since 1989. They’ve won every important award, including International Sparkling Winemaker of the Year bestowed on their son, chief winemaker Sam. We journeyed on to Mousehole (pronounced Mouseull), some 90 minutes south-west. It couldn’t be any more Cornish than if it was smothered in cream by Ross Poldark himself. Wetsuits hang out to dry in the nooks, crannies and courtyards of Lilliputian stone cottages that recede to a small, pasty-shaped harbour. There are tea rooms, fine art galleries, even an antique shop selling wizard’s wands. It’s little wonder that brothers Charles and Edmund Inkin opened a B&B here, The Old Coastguard (see ‘Sleep’ on page 74). Charles studied at Ballymaloe Cookery School in the 1990s, his passion for food echoed in the Coastguard’s restaurant that’s helmed by chef Matt Smith. From a gutsy Welsh rarebit for breakfast to a knockout aubergine, chickpea and harissa stew with minted labneh, the spread is impressive.

Our last few nights were at the Hotel Tresanton in quaint St Mawes – the elegant brainchild of hotelier extraordinaire, Olga Polizzi (see ‘Sleep’ on page 74), and where I reach peak food. We valeted the car and walked on for cosy pints at the Victory Inn (+44 1326 270 324), a simple, shabby-chic bar frequented by local fishermen and sailors. The only struggle here is dithering between the vast selection of local gins – Tarquin vs Tevethan – draught Cornish ales and ciders.

Opposite, clockwise from top left, think pink at The Idle Rocks; coastal views from The Old Coastguard; flower power at the Eden Project; sea gulls contemplate dive-bombing a pasty; canines are king in Cornwall, where dog bowls and biscuit jars line streets and bars; alright petal, at The Old Coastguard; owner/head chef Will Gould of The Watch House; surfers are as integral to Cornwall as Ross Poldark; super bites at The Old Coastguard. Top, Sam Lindo, chief winemaker at Camel Valley Vineyard and, above, a Padstow half-decker.

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DESTINATION | CORNWALL

No visit to St Mawes is complete without feasting at The Idle Rocks (idlerocks.com) and The Watch House (watchhousestmawes. co.uk), both of which overlook the sea and share an understated nautical aesthetic. At the former we sampled Seafood Saturdays, a menu signalled on arrival with huge, iced platters of fresh seafood, and a glass of Pommery. Again, the bread selection was incredible, as was the Heligan’s salad, whose seasonal ingredients are supplied by the local, historic gardens of the same name.

It looked and tasted of summer, chock-full of heritage carrots, chard, artichoke, mint, edible flowers, charred potato, quail egg and truffle dressing. He went large with garlic butter lobster and new potatoes. At The Watch House the following night, we overindulged on Poldark and Stormy cocktails (can you see what they did there?) and top-class fish ‘n’ chips with mushy peas.

Our last meal in Cornwall was the cheapest but no less sensational, at the pleasingly ramshackle Hidden Hut (hiddenhut.co.uk) on Porthcurnick beach, Truro, upon which sun-kissed families with well-behaved dogs pitch their towels and blankets. It being Soup Sunday, I selected the Hut’s fish offering and ... just wow.

We left Cornwall with the waves literally ringing in our ears. What a souvenir. That, and the spare tyre around our midriffs.

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Sweet symmetry – a smart, old stone cottage, above, belies its years. Right, Raluca Mosneag of the Hotel Tresanton, whose love of pooches extends to its socalled Dog’s Bar, below.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NEWQUAY five times per week.

33 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2 +3531 6707238 WWW.THEGREENHEN.COM

OPEN 7 DAYS 2 COURSE LUNCH €17.00 3 COURSE LUNCH €19.00

EARLY BIRD MENU 2 COURSES €19.50 3 COURSES €22.00

A LA CARTE MENU EXTENSIVE WINE LIST GREAT COCKTAILS

DESTINATION | CORNWALL

CORNWALL ESSENTIALS SLEEP

NEWQUAY From the outside, there’s an “institutional” air about the Victorian-era Headland Hotel & Spa. Step inside, though, and this huge, historic, Grade-II listed four-star has all the welcome of a roaring fire. Recently renovated rooms are very comfortable and the large indoor pool and spa thoroughly contemporary. Book a sea-facing room for awesome vistas. B&B from £110; self-catering cottages available. (Fistral Beach Complex, Headland Road, +44 1637 872 211; headlandhotel.co.uk) A great value option is Whipsiderry House B&B, a homely three-star that’s run with warmth and conviviality by its owners of 45 years, Lisa and Andy Burbridge. Views of Porth Bay are gorgeous and there’s an outdoor pool for summer dips. B&B from £66.

(Trevelgue Road, +44 1637 874 777; whipsiderry.co.uk)

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PADSTOW Seafood Restaurant is also the name of Rick Stein’s flagship B&B. This 16-room retreat has stylish, spacious rooms – ours had a private outdoor patio with water feature. Furnishings are top quality and the artworks carefully selected from Rick and Jill’s collection. Great location and the roof deck is spot-on for summer nights. B&B from £165. (Riverside, +44 1841 532 700; rickstein.com) MOUSEHOLE Overlooking St Clement’s Isle in Penzance, The Old Coastguard exudes old-world charm – giant sofas, bookcases, vintage-style Robertson radios – and has a lovely, palm-tree-studded lawn that rolls towards the shoreline.

Food here is outstanding, so be sure to visit its sister B&B in Zennor, The Gurnard’s Head (gurnardshead.co.uk), en route to salubrious St Ives. B&B from £140.

(The Parade, +44 1736 731 222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk)

ST MAWES Bought by Olga Polizzi in 1997, Hotel Tresanton is a clutch of conjoined properties beside the sea. Each room is unique; ours overlooked the ocean, making for a heavenly soundtrack of lapping waves.

There’s a dog-friendly bar, while the restaurant is distinctly Poirotesque. Beautiful outdoor terrace for clement weather. Rooms from £210. (27 Lower Castle Road, +44 1326 270055; tresanton.com)

SMART TIPS

The A30 dual carriageway is the main artery that runs all the way to Britain’s most southwesterly point, Land’s End. Otherwise, the narrow, country roads aren’t for the fainthearted or for anyone in a hurry. So take it slow.

Do not leave Cornwall without visiting the Eden Project, whose very slick, free park-and-ride system makes entry to the

site a cinch. There, two huge, balmy, temperature-controlled biomes house tropical and Mediterranean plants, so it’s a no-brainer day out in winter.

There are also education and exhibition spaces and, naturally, gorgeous grounds. The food hall is pretty intense so my advice is to nosh at the table-service eatery in the Mediterranean biome. edenproject.com If tides and climes allow, walk the causeway to St Michael’s Mount off the small town of Marazion (stmichaelsmount.co.uk). Just 30 residents live on this pictureperfect island that’s topped with a castle whose oldest parts date back to the 12th century.

CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER, HERTZ & EUROPCAR FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland.

Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.

Try our Limited Edition Powers “The Long Hall” Single Cask Release.

Cask No.11791 was bottled especially for us to mark our 250th Anniversary.

OPEN DAILY 12.30PM 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590

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SMART EDIT | MOUNTAIN RESORTS

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You say, we say ...

BESTMOUNTAIN RESORTS

Whether you’re looking for a ski resort or long to be enveloped by nature, these hilly hideaways are the very height of perfection, finds Catherine Murphy.

1 Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Geneva 12 times per week.

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FERME DU SOLEIL, FRANCE Pastoral perfection awaits you in the little hamlet of Le Chinallon in Le Grand Bornand. There are more cows than people – cue bucolic bliss. Add to that ageless character, log fires and traditional Haute-Savoie cuisine at La Ferme du Soleil, an all-year-round bolthole that sleeps up to 14 and you have the perfect retreat for family ski holidays and writers seeking inspiration at 1,450 metres. Prices from €800 per person per week in January including full board. (467 Chemin des Gettiers, Les Gettiers, Le Chinallon, +44 7881 950 400; lafermedusoleil.com)

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LOS CASTANOS, SPAIN A feeling of bien estar, or wellbeing, will wash over you at this tranquil Andalucían oasis. Set in the pueblo blanco of Cartajima (population 100) just 14 kilometres from Ronda, this secluded boutique hotel takes its name from the area’s chestnut trees.

The only good reason to leave the rooftop terrace at Los Castanos, with its mountain and valley views, is to explore the white-washed narrow streets and Arabic origins of Cartajima. B&B from €110 per double room. (Calle Iglesia 40, Cartajima, +34 952 180 778; loscastanos.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin, Cork and Belfast to Málaga multiple times daily.

BACHMAIR-WEISSACH, GERMANY Owner Korbinian Kohler’s dream was to create a place of happiness, recapturing the freedom of a youth spent in cosy inns by Lake Tegernsee in the Bavarian Alps. The result is a wellness hotel that combines subtle luxury and elegance with Bavarian unpretentiousness – a grand hotel with a boutique ethos. Music, art and lake-side living come together in a kind of cosmopolitan Tegernsee country club, complete with a nostalgic fondue stube, a gasthof and a sushi bar in an 18th-century mill built by the Bachmair family. B&B from €277 per double room. (Wiesseer Strasse 1, Bavaria, + 49 8022 842 46 000; bachmair-weissach.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Munich up to twice daily, and from Cork three times per week.

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4 FINCA EL TOSSAL, SPAIN Five miles from the old fishing village of Altea and a million miles from the Costa Blanca’s tourist hubs, this rustic and bohemian casa calms the senses with the scent of orange groves, pine woods and the gentle sway of palm trees. Set high in a green valley and surrounded by peaks of up to 1,800 metres, Finca El Tossal is within walking distance of the Algar waterfalls. Nearby Altea, with its strong Moorish influences and performing arts centre, counts many artists among its residents. Prices from €42 per person for a junior suite. (Ptda La Foya 5, 03518 Bolulla, Alicante, +34 965 97 2183; boutiquehotel-costablanca.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Alicante three times daily in October, up to twice daily in November and from Cork three times per week.

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5 LOISIUM WINE & SPA RESORT, AUSTRIA Take a Unesco World Heritage site, renowned wine-growing area and the beautiful Danube river valley.

Add a cube-shaped, aluminium-clad spa hotel designed by architect Steven Holl in the middle of an hilly vineyard and you have Loisium. Just an hour from Vienna, it’s a haven for wine, art and design lovers. Learn about wine by chatting with vintners before tasting it – or bathing in it: Aveda wine therapies include grape elixir body peels and warm wine barrel baths. Two-night packages from €193 per person. (Loisium Allee 2, 3550 Langenlois, +43 2734 771 000; loisium.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna up to 12 times per week.

6 HOTEL EIGER, SWITZERLAND The magical little village of Mürren is perched on top of a cliff at 1,650 metres, beneath the Schilthorn peak at 2,970 metres and with imposing views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. There’s no road in, so the final part of your journey to this family idyll is via cable car from Lauterbrunnen and a short train journey.

Opposite the train station is the very classic, family-run Hotel Eiger, a favourite with loyal Mürren fans. Since the village is car-free, it’s common to see young children being pulled along on sleds during winter. B&B from €290 per double room. (Aegerten, 3825 Mürren, +41 33 856 54 54; hoteleiger.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Ireland to Zürich up to twice daily.

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7 HOTELLERIE DE MASCOGNAZ, ITALY Perched in a tiny village high above the mountain resort of Champoluc, Hotellerie de Mascognaz is only accessible by 4x4 vehicle or by foot. It’s a cluster of chalets with classy, cosy interiors, two restaurants and a hot tub at 1,812 metres.

Views of the majestic Monte Rosa massif add to its status as a place of meditation and dream mountain retreat. Prices from €309 per room per night. (Champoluc, Ayas, 11020 Mascognaz, + 39 338 729 5708; hotelleriedemascognaz.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Milan Malpensa up to five times weekly.

Introducing Dublin’s newest luxury escape Nestled in the Irish countryside, discover the beautifully restored historic village just a short drive from the city. Enjoy all-day dining, cookery classes, The Well in the Garden and suites overlooking the estate. A sister property of Cliff Townhouse & Cliff House Hotel.

cliffatlyons.ie | +353 1 630 3500 | Lyons Road, Celbridge, Co. Kildare, Ireland

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

“It’s crystal clear”

A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.

+353 (0) 51 317000 houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

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PIC DU MIDI OBSERVATORY HOTEL, FRANCE Set at 2,877 metres in a dark sky reserve in the Hautes-Pyrénées, the Observatory hotel at the Pic du Midi offers a unique retreat for those entranced by astronomy. A nuit de sommet includes cable-car access, sunset cocktails, access to the observatory domes, dinner, star-gazing, breakfast at sunrise and a return to La Mongie. Bedrooms, once used by scientists and astronomers, are simply furnished, austere even – the real attraction is the sky outside. Prices from €399 all-inclusive for a double room in early December. (Rue Pierre Lamy de la Chapelle, 65200 La Mongie, +33 562 56 7000; picdumidi.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toulouse three times weekly until October 28.

9 THE HOTEL DYLAN, USA

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Relax, unwind and indulge your love of music at the meticulously detailed Hotel Dylan. Laidback Woodstock, which will celebrate the 50th anniversary of its Summer of Love in 2019, bustles with artists, musicians, hikers, skiers and fishermen, all drawn there to explore the natural beauty of the Catskill Forest Preserve and Hudson Valley, within a few hours’ drive of Newark and New York City. Ski at Windham or Belleayre mountain resorts, follow a waterfall trail, swim in natural pools or just soak up the “peace love stay” vibe at the Dylan. Each bedroom is named after a rock ‘n’ roll great and you can borrow vinyl to play on the turn-table provided. Double rooms from €240. (320 Maverick Road, Woodstock NY, +1 845 684 5422; thehoteldylan.com)

With a lush valley setting in the midst of an orange, mango and papaya plantation, this crimson mansion exudes a style of faded colonial grandeur. Set in the foothills of the Tamadaba Mountains, the hotel is situated near the cliff-top church of the Ermita de las Nieves and less than 20 minutes away from El Museo Y Parque Arcaelogico. Hike the area’s archaeological or gastronomic routes, explore the beautiful beaches or simply relax in a hammock in the finca’s garden. B&B from €115 per double room.

(35480 Agaete, Gran Canaria, + 34 928 898 145; laslongueras.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily, and from Shannon six times per week.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Gran Canaria up to seven times per week, and from Cork once per week.

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Good VIBRATIONS

The laid-back California city of Ojai has long attracted the counterculture for its independent spirit and superb scenery.

Throw in an allegedly healing electromagnetic vortex and you’ve a haven for 21st-century holistic holidaymakers.

WORDS RACHEL MARLOWE PHOTOGRAPHS KRISTIN TEIG

DESTINATION | OJAI

T

“

here’s nothing to do in Ojai, and not enough time to do it,” is the unofficial motto of a sleepy town that has become the weekend escape of choice for Angelenos looking to kick back and unwind.

The saying perfectly sums up both the distinctly laid-back vibe and the fact that there’s a whole lot of nothing to do in Ojai – from biking and golfing, to wine tasting and farm-to-table dining. Nestled in a scenic valley between the Topa Topa mountains and the Los Padres National Forest, 130 kilometres north of Los Angeles, it has been a destination resort since the 1940s. It earned the reputation of California’s very own ShangriLa after providing the backdrop for Frank Capra’s 1937 movie Lost Horizon. Visitors have continued to be drawn to this idyllic valley with its storied electromagnetic vortex (more on that later), hidden hot springs, jaw-dropping sunsets known locally as “pink moments” and a steadfast commitment to a slower way of life.

So how to spend a few days doing nothing in Ojai? A morning or two can be whiled away walking the length of the iconic, Edward Libbey designed, Spanish-style stucco arcade. At the west end of 84 |

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Previous pages, Caravan Outpost has community spirit in droves.

Clockwise from top, field-fresh produce at the Farmers Market; sip and linger at Beacon Coffee Company; mind the cacti; Knead Bakers Bobbi (mum) and daughters Rachel and Leah Corbin.

the street you’ll find a cool, young crowd lining up at Beacon Coffee Company (211 W Ojai Ave, +1 805 248 7054; beaconcoffee.com), owned by the Ventura-based roasters, for a cold brew caffeine fix and gluten-free baked goods. At the east end, gluten lovers flock to Knead Baking Company (469 E Ojai Ave, +1 310 770 3282; kneadbakingcompany.com) for the signature breakfast sandwich with an organic fried egg, Vermont white cheddar and rocket on a fresh bagel. In the middle you’ll find quirky boutiques – no chain stores are permitted to operate in the town – wine-tasting rooms serving regional vintages and restaurants using local ingredients.

On Sundays however most of the town heads over to the Farmers Market (ojaicertifiedfarmersmarket.com) to stock up on organically grown produce from fruit, vegetables,

Amazing deals for January and February escapes away

WELCOME TO OLCOTE IN CEYLON Ireland’s Only Luxury Villa Boutique Hotel in Sri Lanka

Sunshine, five star luxury, healthy fine-dining and astounding adventures await you in Sri Lanka. Perfect for families, groups and couples, with 8 private, air conditioned suites to choose from. With all excursions, airport transfers, food and drinks included, you couldn’t imagine a better break away.

• Dedicated drivers and flexible excursions to suit the flow of your holiday • Private chef delivering a daily menu to suit everybody (including little ones) • Choose from a range of carefully curated trips, adventures and activities • Children always welcome. Toys and books for all ages, playroom; Playstation too • Free babysitting! And children under 5 stay for free

PRICES AND GETTING HERE: PRICES START FROM €1,250 PER PERSON SHARING, (EXCLUDING FLIGHTS), BASED ON ONE COUPLE STAYING FOR ONE WEEK.

DESTINATION | OJAI

herbs and flowers, to olive oil, jam, honey and goat’s cheese. They may also combine that with a visit to the nearby Porch Gallery (310 E Matilija Ave, +1 805 620 7589; porchgalleryojai.com), a modern art space housed in an historic home, where owners Heather Stobo and Lisa Casoni host coffee mornings on their large porch. Browse the latest exhibit while local jazz musician Dave Palmer riffs on a grand piano and the Scratch food truck serves breakfast burritos.

The hours leading up to lunch should be spent exploring the surrounding landscape, which the native Chumash Indians believed to have powerful healing properties – something the more esoteric locals put down to a subterranean electromagnetic vortex, caused by shifting tectonic plates. Whatever the reason for Ojai’s good vibes, the Shelf Road hike is an easy, two-kilometre round trip that will take you through picturesque citrus and avocado groves and up into the foothills, where you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of the entire valley. Most hotels in town provide complimentary bikes for their guests but The Mob Shop (110 W Ojai Ave, +1 805 272 8102; themobshop. com) also has a selection of mountain, town, kids and even electric bikes to rent and offers guided tours to local attractions, such as the Ojai Olive Oil Farm (1811 Ladera Rd, +1 805

The cherry on top – an oven-fresh seeded bagel from Knead Bakery, above. Right, Airstream dreams at Caravan Outpost.

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OJAI ESSENTIALS SLEEP

COLONIAL The 80-hectare Ojai Valley Inn and Spa boasts a championship golf course, four swimming pools, tennis courts, three restaurants (dinner on the terrace at Olivella with sweeping valley views of the Los Padres National Forest is a must), a pub and an award-winning spa. The Spanish-style rooms are well appointed and have private terraces. Or, splurgers can book Casa Elar, a five-bedroom house with its own staff, gardens and pool.

Rooms from $349.

(905 Country Club Road, +1 855 697 8780; ojairesort.com) PINE TIME MACHINE Each of the log-cabinstyle rooms in Ojai Rancho Inn, a renovated 1950s motel, has its own front porch with vintage camp chairs – perfect for a leisurely morning of people watching after grabbing a thermos of coffee from reception.

Some even have kitchenettes, hot tubs and fireplaces. Follow the inn on Instagram for details of poolside events including yoga, movie screenings and live music. Rooms from $179. (615 W Ojai Ave, +1 805 646 1434; ojairanchoinn.com) AIRSTREAM Glamping meets the great California road trip at Caravan Outpost, a chic trailer park where accommodation comes in the form of 11 Airstream

caravans. All have kitchenettes, showers, air conditioning, heating, record players complete with vintage vinyl and private outdoor seating areas. Grab a bike to explore the town by day and by night, roast marshmallows around the communal fire pit with fellow guests. Prices from $148. (317 Bryant St, +1 805 836 4891; caravanoutpostojai.com)

DRINK

GRAZING As the name suggests, Tipple & Ramble is a picnic shop meets wine bar.

It is the perfect place to spend an afternoon sampling central coast wines and craft beers while browsing their selection of SoCal weekend essentials, including bocce ball sets, vintage coolers, Mexican wool throws and hand-made leather camping stools. On weekends, charcuterie and cheese boards are served out in the shady, succulent-filled garden.

(315 N Montgomery St, +1 805 319 9496; tippleandramble.com) CELEBRATED Chief’s Peak is a tiny wine bar at the Ojai Rancho Inn that has become the go-to spot for locals and visitors alike (devoted regulars earn their very own K+R ceramic cup displayed along the bar’s walls). The dulcet soundtrack has been curated by Warbler Records in nearby Santa Barbara, and on Friday nights the Jolly Oyster

travelling oyster bar pulls up with sustainable shellfish fresh from Baja.

(615 W Ojai Ave, +1 805 646 1434; ojairanchoinn. com) ORGANIC Run by Ojai native Adam Tolmach, Ojai Vineyard Tasting Room has achieved cult status thanks to its small production of Rhôneinfluenced, organic wines sourced from Santa Barbara County (many of which have been recognised by top critics). Tasting flights featuring their sought after Rieslings, Syrahs, Pinots and Chardonnays are offered daily at the charming tasting room housed in the town’s former fire station.

(109 S Montgomery St, +1 805 798 3947; ojaivineyard.com)

SMART TIPS

Why not make the journey up to Ojai an event in itself? Skip the traffic on the 101 and take the scenic route through Malibu, along the Pacific Coast Highway towards Oxnard, before heading into the mountains.

Don’t drive? The doubledecker Pacific Surfliner train (pacificsurfliner. com) from Downtown LA’s historic Union Station to Ventura – another slow-travel go-to – where you can hop off and hire a taxi on to Ojai.

When planning your trip it’s worth noting that many businesses are closed on Monday and Tuesday.

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Clockwise from top left, Ojai’s orange blossom scent has been captured in candle form by local brand deKor&Co; pick and mix at Tipple & Ramble; Brad Steward, who runs Caravan Outpost with his wife, Shawn; and fields of gold line the roadside.

Upgrade to Business Class to or from Los Angeles for 55,000 Avios points (excluding on reward flights).*

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*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN OFF-PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES.

DESTINATION | OJAI

Clockwise from above: Oh hi, outdoor bookstore! Bart’s is a mustvisit for sun-worshipping bibliophiles; muggins here – regulars at Chief’s Peak earn a named ceramic cup; we are the champignons at Nocciola; wait for your “pink moment” at Meditation Mount; the serene sign language of Ojai.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LA up to five times per week.

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646 5964; ojaioliveoil.com), to taste their award-winning oils, before picking a few to take home. Or, head on over to Matilija Hot Springs, an eight-kilometre bike ride from the centre of town, followed by a short hike along the North Fork Matilija Trail (hikelospadres.com).

An entire afternoon can be lost at the country’s largest independent outdoor book store, Bart’s Books (302 W Matilija St, +1 805 646 3755; bartsbooksojai.com), browsing the more than one million titles for sale, which include everything from signed and first editions, to rare art books, pulp fiction and new releases. On the off-chance it’s closed, pick up one of the second-hand, 35-cent novels that line the outside walls and pay using the honour-system box, before grabbing a few must-have souvenirs, such as deKor&Co’s “Ojai” candle (105 S Montgomery St, +1 805 272 8675; dekorandco.com) that perfectly captures the scent of the valley’s orange blossom in full bloom or a Summer Camp’s “Oh, hi” T-shirt – yes, that’s how you pronounce Ojai if you were still wondering (1020 W Ojai Ave, +1 805 861 7109; shopsummercamp.com).

After a day packed with doing not much of anything, evenings in Ojai are all about finding the perfect spot to catch the town’s extraordinary sunsets that turn the entire valley a fiery hue. Prime pink moment viewing can be had atop Meditation Mount (10340 Reeves Rd, +1 805 646 5508; meditationmount.org), a public meditation centre located on a 13-hectare site with stunning views, or at a table on the terrace of Nocciola (314 El Paseo Rd, +1 805 640 1648; nocciolaojai.com) where you can order aperitivo and make a toast to another day of “doing nothing” in Ojai.

YOUR HOSPITALITY DESIGN EXPERTS

www.audrey.ie +353 (0) 46 906 4190 info@audrey.ie

Photos by Niall Cummins Photography

Dohen y & Nesbitt 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.

Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.

Voted overall

best pub in Ireland in the hospitality Ireland awards

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie

LONDON DRINKS

London has always been a magnet for the cultivated cocktail connoisseur, but even more so now as the city experiences a golden age of bar brilliance.

PHOTOGRAPHS AND WORDS EOIN HIGGINS

DESTINATION | LONDON

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Previous page, left, the stop-you-in-your-tracks exterior of Japanese/Italian fusion gastropub Ukai. Expect an eclectic soundtrack, punchy sake-inspired cocktails and a memorable menu, and, right, the brilliant Enrico Gonzato at The Spirited Awards World’s Best Cocktail Bar, Dandelyan at The Mondrian hotel.

2 3

1 Del Jones of The Ginstitute gets a fistful at his informative and entertaining ginmaking masterclass in Portobello.

2 Taking time out for an afternoon refreshment at The French in buzzing Soho. 3 Erik Holmberg applying the final touches at the fabulously trashy tiki joint Trailer Happiness.

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4 Oysters and stout at the gastronomically gallant Marksman (Michelin Pub of the Year, 2017), Hackney. 5 Vive la France!

Colourful signage at the venerable French House, Soho.

6 Dapper bar manager Ashley Bambrough pouring with aplomb at K Bar, The Kensington. 7 Good tunes and party vibes at Upstairs @ Ronnie’s, Ronnie Scott’s, Soho.

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Friday evening is time for work drinks outside The Glassblower in Piccadilly.

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*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

11 8 Bar boys Jason Glynn and Andy Kerr contemplating a cocktail at The Sun Tavern, Bethnal Green.

9 Mod men outside Bar Italia, Soho.

10 Tools of the trade at the dark and intriguing Black Rock Whisky Bar, in the City.

11 Pretty in pink on gorgeous green marble at K Bar, The Kensington.

Fly return to LONDON for 9,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.

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DESTINATION | LONDON

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SLEEP LUXURIOUS Sitting magnificently in its swanky neighbourhood namesake, The Kensington is a splendid five-star choice for someone looking to push the boat out for a special experience.

Plush interiors, excellent service and an attention to the little details that make such big differences puts it a step ahead. Rooms from £199. (109-113 Queen’s Gate, South Kensington, +44 207 589 6300; doylecollection.com) FUNKY Conran + Partners-designed South Place Hotel in the City Square Mile is conveniently located between Moorgate and Liverpool Street stations.

The accommodation is boutique, luxurious and fresh-faced, with food being a particular highlight. There are five bars, two restaurants and a floor of event spaces – the hotel being well positioned for wining, dining and dancing, before falling into a comfortable bed. Rooms from £185.

(3 South Place, +44 203 503 0000; southplacehotel.com)

12 Very well worn, the stay-a-while interiors at The Sun Tavern, Bethnal Green.

13 Picture perfect – a fantastically floral cocktail at The Sun Tavern.

14 A Friday lunchtime pint and a catch-up

in Piccadilly.

14

HISTORIC The stylish 11 Cadogan Gardens near fashionable Sloane Square and its preening Sloane Ranger populace was originally built by Lord Chelsea in 1887. The hotel is quaint with an opulent interior mirroring its posh environs. Rooms are inviting and eminently comfortable. Enjoy evening drinks on the discreet terrace and, come morning, revel in the sumptuous breakfast options. Rooms from £236.

(11 Cadogan Gardens, Chelsea, +44 207 730 7000; 11cadogangardens.com)

SMART TIPS The best way to traverse the Tube, financially at least, is to simply tap on and off with your debit card. This ensures you don’t have to worry about buying Oyster cards or weekly tickets as your trips are automatically charged at the best value ticket rate, ie if you spend a week tapping you will be charged the lower weekly ticket rate rather than what individual trips would add up to – a beautifully simple solution.

Many of the city’s most prestigious bars operate a booking system, just like a restaurant. If you want to be assured of a seat/table at your preferred watering hole, it pays to make reservations rather than simply rocking up and hoping to snag a spot.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LONDON HEATHROW up to 15 times daily, from Cork four times daily, and from Shannon and Belfast thrice daily; and from Dublin to GATWICK up to six flights daily.

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OVER 200 LOCATIONS NATIONWIDE

Visit www.topaz.ie or www.passportphoto.ie to find a Compliant Online Passport Service booth near you.

This service is for 18 years and over only. You must previously have been issued with an Irish Passport.

WELCOME TO DUBLIN'S FINEST GASTROPUB The Old Spot offers a sophisticated dining experience within a warm and relaxed pub atmosphere.

Enjoy award-winning food, fine wines, craft beers and great service to match.

Recommended by the Michelin 'Eating out in Pubs' Guide 2016 & 2017

14 Bath Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4. For reservations please contact us: T: +353 1 660 5599 | E: info@theoldspot.ie | Online reservations: www.theoldspot.ie

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5 B E AUTIFUL

ArtDecoCities Has there ever been a more glamorous design movement than Art Deco? Lucy White celebrates its beacons.

USA

NEW YORK

Paris may have been the birthplace of Art Deco but New York City boasts some of the world’s best known examples. During the Jazz Age, architects and engineers literally reached for the stars, creating surging skyscrapers that became instant icons, many of which were unveiled right after the

Wall Street Crash of 1929, among them: the Chrysler Building, the Empire State, Radio City Music Hall and Rockefeller Center. There’s a wealth of info on the Art Deco Society of New York’s website (artdeco.org), while New York’s foremost Art Deco expert and author, Anthony

W Robins, leads walks, talks and courses (anthonywrobins.com).

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York twice daily and from Shannon six times per week.

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SMART EDIT | ART DECO CITIES

FRANCE

PARIS

Think Art Deco, think Manhattan, but the design movement originated in Paris. In 1925, the City of Light hosted the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes – an exhibition showing the world that the country was back open for business after the ravages of the First World War. This new “style moderne” encompassed all the decorative

arts, from architecture to fashion, with motifs including clean, geometric lines, steel and concrete, sunburst ornamentation and exquisite craftsmanship. This blueprint, though, was heralded more than a decade earlier, by Auguste Perret’s Théatre des Champs-Elysées (theatrechampselysees. fr), above, whose harmony of functionality and ornamentation set the standard for

Art Deco design everywhere. See also the façade of the cabaret theatre FoliesBergère (foliesbergere.com), which made a star of the Jazz Age idol Josephine Baker.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris four times daily, and from Cork daily.

USA

CHICAGO

Most offices aren’t as grand as the Carbide and Carbon Building, far left, or Chicago Board of Trade but then the Roaring Twenties were an interwar bubble celebrating ambition and prosperity. Such excess could never last – see F Scott Fitzgerald’s portentous The Great Gatsby, and then the Great Depression – but its legacy is visible on many a street corner. The Chicago Architecture Foundation (architecture.org) runs several guided walking tours, one of which explores Art Deco in Downtown (two hours; $20pp). They are also the brains behind Open House Chicago (openhousechicago.org), which invites interiors nosey parkers into mansions, theatres, private clubs and secret spaces this October 14-15 without charging a dime.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Chicago 12 times per week.

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MIAMI

AL HIGGINS

AL HIGGINS

USA

Pastel hues, curvilinear shapes, neon signs. South Beach is so synonymous with Art Deco that it’s hard to imagine what it might look like now, had politicians and property developers replaced them with “modern” condos and high-rises in the 1970s. These historic beauties had fallen into disrepair – until Barbara Baer Capitman came to the rescue in 1977 by forming the Miami Design Preservation League.

Within two years, she and her supporters had a square-mile Art Deco district listed on the National Register of Historic Places on which it

remains. The MDPL (mdpl.org) continues to thrive, organising walking tours (90 minutes; $25pp), and also an Art Deco Weekend, January 1214, 2018 (artdecoweekend.com), offering live music, tours, a classic car show, lectures, screenings and children’s activities.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Miami three times per week.

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SMART EDIT | ART DECO CITIES

UK

LONDON

Paris’s “style moderne” spread like wildfire and it wasn’t long before British cities started tapping into the global trend for understated luxury. Claridge’s hotel (claridges.co.uk), top and far right, in its present guise, dates back to 1856, but it wasn’t until the 1920s that it secured its status as an Art Deco megastar, enlisting

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designers Oswald Milne, Basil Ionides and René Lalique for some of its interiors. But it wasn’t just a trend for high society. Battersea Power Station, Carreras Cigarette Factory (now offices), above left, and The Hoover Building (one part Tesco, one part new-to-the-market luxury apartments) were all elegantly utilitarian.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to London Heathrow up to 15 times daily, from Cork four times daily, and from Shannon and Belfast three times daily; from Dublin to Gatwick six times per day.

ld Worr Fest Bee R 26 -29 OBE OCT

TH

TH

DESTINATION | MÁLAGA

48 HOURS IN

MÁLAGA Summer is gone but never forgotten on southern Spain’s sunny, glamorous coast, finds Niamh O’Donoghue.

Don't miss . .

Drink at . .

HIGH STYLE Did you know that Málaga is home to one of the world’s largest private couture collections? Held at the Automobile and Fashion Museum, it shows the evolution of 20th-century haute couture across seven exhibitions that include designs by Balmain, Lanvin, Chanel and Louis Vuitton.

Admission €8. (Avenida de Sor Teresa Prat, +34 951 137 001; museoautomovilmalaga.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin, Cork, and from Belfast to MÁLAGA multiple times daily.

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Top, mountain views from the city, above, haute love at the Automobile and Fashion Museum, right, jazz man Ron Carter.

BRASS TACKS Every autumn, Málaga welcomes the return of its Jazz Festival, and this year’s star guest Ron Carter – 80-years-young and one of the original members the Miles Davis Quintet – is sure to be a toe-tapper. Gigs are centred on the Teatro Cervantes but other bars and clubs will host funk, soul and jazz jams to warm the soul coming into winter.

November 8-13, tickets from €12. (Teatro Cervantes, Calle Ramos Marín, +34 952 224 109; teatrocervantes.com)

FORTUNA SUNG

G’WAN JUAN Málaga boasts more than 100 galleries and cultural institutions. The Picasso Museum is perhaps its best known but don’t miss the Carmen Thyssen Museum, where a retrospective of works by the 20th-century Spanish artist Juan Gris explores his take on Cubism and its enduring legacy on contemporary art. From October 6 to February 25, 2018.

(Calle Compañía, +34 902 303 131; carmenthyssenmalaga.org)

SECRET RETREAT La Casa Invisible, or “The Invisible House”, is an oasis tucked behind Málaga’s Plaza de los Mártires. Part terrace bar (which is pet-friendly), part social club, part cultural centre, it offers workshops, language and dance classes, yoga, and, oh yes, drinks! It’s the perfect nose-dive into the rich, local culture and there’s also a cool market here on the first and third Saturday of every month. (Calle Nosquera 11, +34 952 609 548; lainvisible.net) EASY DOES IT Mañana Bar Málaga is a well-known local bar run by passionate and enthusiastic staff. You won’t find luxurious decor and topshelf wines, but what you will get is fruitful conversation, local beers and an authentic, carefree atmosphere.

Open daily 11am-2am. (Calle San Juan de Letrán, +34 663 644 008) ELITE SQUAD If the taste of expensive, high-brow elixir is what entices you out, then a soirée in Puerto Banús is essential. Pangea Rooftop Bar is one of the newest luxury club nights in the port area and offers amazing views of the marina, as well as hosting international DJs and celebrity appearances. (Edifico Club de Mar, Puerto Banús, +34 680 291 967; pangea-club.com)

Sleep at . .

EXQUISITE The historic Gran Hotel Miramar is pure glamour – previous distinguished guests include Liz Taylor, Ernest Hemingway and Ava Gardner.

Located in Málaga’s smart Caleta area, its grand exterior hints at what’s inside, although, guest rooms are cool white and surprisingly contemporary, with Moorish and Mediterranean accents. Rooms from €200. (Paseo de Reding, +34 952 603 000; granhotelmiramarmalaga.com)

MID-RANGE If the eclectic interior by designer Melián Randolph isn’t enough to entice you to stay at Room Mate Valeria, then the no-rush, breakfast-until-noon should. The hotel’s design is inspiring and modern, and the atmosphere warm and relaxing. Another plus is that it’s on the edge of a buzzy neighbourhood. Rooms from €129. (Plaza del Poeta Alfonso Canales, +34 952 06 04 01; room-matehotels.com)

BUDGET With large rooms, Hotel Venecia is the perfect pit-stop for budget-conscious travellers.

It’s within easy walking distance of Málaga’s historic city centre as well as the port district, so there’s plenty to see and do in between sampling the local cuisine. Rooms from €75.

(Alameda Principal 9, +34 952 213 636; hotelveneciamalaga.com)

Top, statement interiors in the lounge at Room Mate Valeria. Top right, cool white rooms at The Gran Hotel Miramar and above right, waterfront views in Puerto Banús. Below, sunset walks on the coastline, and, left, delicious sublime savouries at Skina restaurant.

Eat at . .

ITALIAN JOB Puerto Banús attracts some of the world’s wealthiest jet-setters to its glitzy shops and stunning views. Equally famous is its strip of restaurants cascading over the waterfront’s edge, offering cosmopolitan fare.

Try Amore & Fantasia Ristorante Pizzeria for the best Italian experience this side of the Mediterranean. A romantic, open façade makes for perfect post-dinner people-watching, too.

(Muelle Benabola, Puerto José Banús, +34 661 312 277; amorefantasia.com) AUTHENTIC Nestled in the heart of Málaga’s old town, El Tapeo de Cervantes is well worth seeking out. There might not be much room inside to swing a gato but this hideout is wildly popular with locals and tourists alike, so expect your tastebuds to tingle with delight. Dishes from €3. (Calle de Cárcer 8, +34 952 609 458; eltapeodecervantes.com) INTIMATE Sitting down to one of the five tables in Marbella’s Skina restaurant – one of the smallest Michelin-star eateries in the Málaga area – will make you and your party feel really special. Think big, fat prawns, huge red mullet and sea bass sourced daily from the market and then transformed into dishes of rare delicacy and subtlety. (Calle de Adúar, Marbella, +34 952 765 277; restauranteskina.com)

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Private Dining | Weddings | Corporate Events 25fitzwilliamplace.ie | info@25fitzwilliamplace.ie | @25fitzwilliampl +353 1 669 4646 | 25 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2

ON BUSINESS

Making travel work for you

LISBON

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SUMMIT SPECIAL To coincide with November’s Web Summit, Emily McAuliffe shows us around Portugal’s achingly hip city of Lisbon.

A DAY IN THE LIFE Cashmere veteran Tom Monaghan couldn’t be busier in his eighth decade – watch and learn.

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HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL, ETC Lucy White goes “Wilde” in London and scopes hot new hotels in Lyon, San Francisco and Shoreditch.

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SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Brenda Cullen, of the Undergraduate Awards Summit, looks back at her academic insights.

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Business

L

isbon is making waves as one of Europe’s trendiest cities as people discover its historic grandeur, warm hospitality and balance of traditional flavours and haute cuisine. Heck, even Madonna has moved here. The magnetism of Portugal’s sunny capital is not only attracting travellers, but also masterminds of creativity and innovation, as the city positions itself as a tech hub.

Between 2014-2016, 700 companies were created in Lisbon’s high-tech sectors, the city having incubated businesses such as the award-winning motion intelligence company Heptasense and call centre software provider Talkdesk – a five-yearold company now worth €500 million.

The city has also become awash with co-working spaces that support freelancers and entrepreneurs who relish the city’s fast Wi-Fi, collaborative work environment and appeasing pace of life.

And what’s not to love about concluding a heavy brainstorming session with petiscos and vinho on a panoramic rooftop or by the banks of the Rio Tejo?

Lisbon’s clout on the tech stage is bolstered by its status as host to the world’s largest tech conference this month, Web Summit (websummit.com) — co-founded by young Irish entrepreneur Paddy Cosgrave — which will see companies such as Google, Microsoft and Amazon flock to the city’s gleaming cobbled streets. With work and play stars aligned, it’s Lisbon’s time to shine.

EAT

SOPHISTICATED O Watt is the latest venture of chef Kiko Martins – the man behind Lisbon’s A Cevicheria, which is well known for its delectable seafood, right, and consistent line out the door. At his modern new digs in Cais do Sodré, Martins focuses on guilt-free fine dining, where everything is grilled, raw or steamed.

Rest assured, his culinary craftsmanship ensures no sacrifice on flavour. (Avenida 24 de Julho 12, +351 211 369 504)

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SUMMIT SPECIAL

As the world’s tech giants swoop into Portugal’s capital for the Web Summit this November 6-9, Emily McAuliffe uncovers the city’s multifarious appeal.

TRADITIONAL Amid the jam of tourist-centric establishments in Lisbon’s historic suburb of Alfama is a pearl of traditional Portuguese gastronomy.

Mestre André has been ticking along for decades and makes every dish to order using fresh ingredients. The light and fluffy pataniscas (codfish fritters) are worth a trip in themselves.

(Calçadinha de Santo Estevão 6, +351 218 866 232; restaurantemestreandre.com)

CASUAL To.B – To Burger or Not To Burger is positioned in a relaxed courtyard in the swish neighbourhood of Chiado.

Chicken burgers are served with plump breast meat, while patties are made with 100 per cent grass-fed beef from Portugal’s Azores islands.

Those who’d prefer “not to burger” can opt for a crisp salad with a side of rustic fries. (Rua Capelo 24, +351 213 471 046; to-burger.com)

GET SMART RIDE ON The Lisbon Card provides the most efficient and cost-effective means of hitting the city’s major attractions. Buy a 24-, 48- or 72hour card at the airport, use it to ride public transport at no cost and gain free entry to 28 museums and monuments across the city.

Also receive discounts of up to 50 per cent on other attractions and services. visitlisboa.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LISBON up to 11 times per week.

FABRICE DEMOULIN

MIX MASTERS Mark the end of a long day with a cocktail created by some of Lisbon’s crowning mixologists at Bistro 100 Maneiras, right, which was named one of Portugal’s best watering holes in the 2017 World Class awards.

Pull up a stool to the bar and get close to the muddling action or tuck yourself away in the cosy lounge area. (Largo da Trindade 9, +351 910 307 575; 100maneiras.com)

PLUG IN To tackle emails with a hit of quality caffeine, make a beeline for The Mill on the gentrified Poço dos Negros street. Power sockets are aplenty in this bright and airy café and the baristas whip up a mean cappuccino. The Mill also serves homemade cakes and biscuits alongside a casual café menu, and conveniently stays open until 8pm on weekdays. (Rua do Poço dos Negros 1, +351 211 575 220; themill.pt)

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Business

SLEEP

EXECUTIVE The Tivoli Avenida Liberdade is a Lisbon icon from the 1930s that has recently undergone a €15 million facelift. The modern refurbished rooms are fitted out with comfy beds and an executive desk, making them well suited to the business traveller. When it’s time to unwind, head to the aptly named Sky Bar for magnificent views of the city, castle and river. Rooms from €195.

(Avenida da Liberdade 185, +351 213 198 900; minorhotels.com)

CENTRAL You can’t beat the location of the grand Pousada de Lisboa in Lisbon’s main square, Praça do Comércio. The design of this renovated government office that once headquartered the country’s presidents is elegant and inviting, and stately statues flank the corridors. Despite its busy surroundings, the spa, pool and terrace provide ample opportunities to relax. Rooms from €285. (Praça do Comércio 31-34, +351 210 407 640; pousadas.pt)

BOUTIQUE The five-star Valverde sits pretty on Lisbon’s swanky, tree-lined boulevard, Avenida da Liberdade. The corridors and 25 rooms are shrouded in bold colours and/or patterns that are paired with bright, bubbly service. A highlight is the leafy interior patio, where you can feel a million miles from the city buzz with a poolside cocktail. Rooms from €220.

(Avenida da Liberdade 164, +351 210 940 300; valverdehotel.com)

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Business

CEO INSIDER…

What do you like most about doing business in Lisbon? People here are honest, hard workers and are generally happy about what they do, so there’s a good sense of community.

Also, more and more people want to come and live here, particularly within the creative industries, and foreigners are always received well by the locals.

We’re used to welcoming immigrants, but this wave of freelancers and younger people who want to come to live and work in Lisbon is new, and the way they are trying to mix with us and work with us is very positive.

Where do you eat out? I like Bota Sal (Rua Domingos Sequeira 38, +351 961 401 085) in Campo de Ourique for traditional Portuguese and my favourite brunch spot is the The Decadente (Rua São Pedro de Alcântara 81, +351 213 461 381; thedecadente.pt). The brunch is excellent because it’s all you can eat at an affordable price and the terrace is amazing. There’s also a place called Cozinha Popular da Mouraria (Rua das Olarias 5, +351 926 520 568), which is run by a chef who invites refugees and local people to cook for different occasions and it’s a really great project.

As a former music manager and DJ agent, where do you find good music? There are a lot of music options in the city but I like to go for

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VICTOR MACHADO

Director and co-founder of Lisbon’s successful Village Underground (vulisboa.com) co-working and events space, Mariana Duarte Silva took a London concept to her home city and stamped it as her own. The privately owned company was one of the first projects to come out of the Portuguese government initiative Startup Lisboa (startuplisboa.com), which has churned out almost 200 innovative businesses since its inception in 2011. Village Underground now houses office space in 14 shipping containers and has an old warehouse that hosts corporate productions and events, plus two double-decker buses that moonlight as a café and meeting rooms. events organised by independent promoters, as they tend to do a lot of good outdoor parties. For instance, there are always good parties going on in the quiosques (pavement kiosks) in Avenida da Liberdade, or at parks and beaches with underground techno promoter Fuse. Collectives such as Flow, Lx Music, bloop and Wrong are also great.

What about cultural activities? I like the MAAT museum (Avenida Brasília, +351 210 028 130; maat.pt) in Belém and the Underdogs Gallery (Rua Fernando Palha 56, +351 218 680 462; under-dogs.net) in Marvila, curated by well-known Portuguese street artist Vhils. He and DJ Glue run another store right by the river that showcases the work of many Portuguese and international street artists. It’s called Montana Shop (Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa, +351 912 993 675; montanashoplisboa.com) and is a really good spot to buy art, and eat.

Where do you go to get away from the city? My favourite spot is Azeitão, which is just outside Lisbon near the Arrábida Natural Park. It’s amazing because there are lovely beaches as well as great wineries and good food.

I love Ericeira to the north of Lisbon too for the beach, the surf, the people and the vibe. The walled city of Óbidos is also a beautiful place to go.

Boost your Avios points on hotel bookings, so wherever you stay, you can collect points in your sleep.

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Business

A DAY IN THE LIFE

I LOVE VISITING …

Tom Monaghan founded Monaghans Cashmere in 1960. He works in the store on Dublin’s Hibernian Way, off Dawson Street, five days a week.

6.30am I get up and get ready for work – it’s so important to look well, so I take my time. I pop into Teresa to say goodbye. We’ve been married for 57 years but sadly she has Alzheimer’s and needs round-the-clock care. We’re so lucky to have the most wonderful girls caring for her at home so we can still be together, but it’s sad and I miss our old life a lot. She founded Monaghans with me and we were great business partners as well as life partners.

7.45am I head into work on the bus and it’s straight to Clarendon Street for Mass at 8.30am.

I was born into a strong Catholic background and my faith is very important to me.

9am After Mass I head over to open the shop and we’re ready for business. I still get great pleasure every day as we open. John, our manager, and Martin are also ready for the day’s business. Once we’re open I spend a little time on the shop floor and then I pop over to Lemon & Duke for something light for breakfast.

10.30am My daughter Suzanne, who joined the business five years ago, John and I sit down to discuss the day – meetings, orders, stock and planning buying trips for next season. While cashmere is worn all year round, especially in Ireland, the winter months are our busiest – lots of our customers prefer to buy a warm cashmere sweater than turn on the heating! I love when the clocks go back because it means Christmas is coming and, for many of our customers, a visit to Monaghans Cashmere is part of their ritual – some buy a sweater, scarf, a beautiful pair of socks or a hotwater bottle cover for a gift.

1pm At lunchtime I head over to The Duke on Duke Street. I have soup and brown bread as I try

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to eat healthy foods, but occasionally I break out and have something like fish and chips. I usually have lunch with a friend or a customer who invites me to join them.

2.30pm My favourite part of the business is meeting our wonderful customers. A third generation of customers are now coming in to the store and it brings me great joy that a third generation of the Monaghan family now work in the store too – two of my granddaughters, Hailey and Michaela, who are college students, are working with us. Christmas is my favourite time because the atmosphere is fantastic with so many of our long-standing customers who have become friends popping in to see us. Suzanne works three days in store and from home on the other days. I’m very proud of her because she has designed a new, more contemporary range of cashmere, which has brought in new, younger customers, securing the future of the business.

It gives me great satisfaction to know that the business will continue long after I am gone.

EDINBURGH I’ve been travelling to Scotland for the past 60 years for business. We’re collected by our manufacturers and travel to their factories to do our buying. It’s exhausting work but exhilarating, and the quality of our product has ensured the success of our business. Suzanne, John and I travel together, which is always enjoyable.

MÁLAGA I head to Marbella every summer for a holiday with my daughter Karen and her family. I love the beautiful weather and spending time with my grandchildren. While they’re playing on the beach, I love to relax with a good book and a glass of wine. The Orange Square is my favourite place to go for a coffee and to people-watch.

4pm I head off for a cup of tea with a customer and then I tend to do some work in the office or on the shop floor until closing at 6pm. We have late opening on a Thursday so I stay until 7pm – it’s important to me to do the full day. I head home and have dinner with one of the family.

Weekends On Saturday evening, once we close the store, I head to the farm in Kilcock where my son and I breed horses. My passion in life is horse breeding and horses have been part of my life for the past 40 years. I stay in Kilcock and work on the farm until Monday evening. The family is always telling me to slow down and take it easy but I love working outside and I enjoy the open air.

LONDON We travel to London twice a year to visit our clothing manufacturers and to place orders for the following season. It’s such an energetic, lively city and I always leave feeling revived.

Londoners are so effortlessly stylish, it’s no wonder it’s one of the style capitals of the world – I feel very lucky to be able to conduct part of my business from there.

Business Hotel

WILDE THING London’s Hotel Café Royal has a storied history of politicians, pioneers and princesses.

Lucy White raises a toast to its 21st-century incarnation.

S

lap, bang in the thick of Regent Street, on the grade II listed Quadrant, Hotel Café Royal couldn’t be any more central. And as the Café Royal restaurant, it was once the beating heart of London’s glitterati, welcoming the likes of Virginia Woolf, Winston Churchill, Noël Coward, Liz Taylor, Princess Di and David Bowie through its illustrious doors until closure in 2008. Our very own Oscar Wilde was also a regular, hence the hotel’s bar named in his honour; a glorious, mirrored confection that makes Versailles look austere and where you can sit in Oscar’s favourite seat and feast on jolly-spiffing afternoon tea.

Do not be fooled by its starry history, though (it reopened as a hotel in 2012), for its guest rooms are distinctly contemporary. My junior suite was ginormous and, despite the enviable aspect on to bustling Regent Street, blessed with superior sound-proofing. While I could’ve done with a higher IQ to conquer the flashy light system and oscillating TV, there was much to admire about the room’s

smooth, rusticated Portland stone-style walls, its pink and green accents and the panoramically marbled bathroom, including giant bathtub. The swish spa is also an excellent USP, while no query is too much trouble for the dapper concierge. No wonder that Hotel Café Royal is the official home of the Frieze art fair this October 5-8, It is also winningly close to Soho. On my visit I replaced a watch strap at Nixon on Newburgh Street, bought a bottle of dreamy Santal 33 at Le Labo perfumery on Beak Street, worried my credit card at Liberty and had a beautiful dirty martini at Upper James Street’s plush Bob Bob Ricard. In the words of dearest Oscar: “I can resist everything except temptation.” Rooms from £360. (68 Regent Street, +44 20 7406 3333; hotelcaferoyal.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London multiple times daily.

SAN FRANCISCO, USA The creation of two brothers from Kerry, Hotel VIA is within a baseball’s throw of AT&T Park – it is right across the street, making it a no-brainer for Giants fans. A boutique proposition, it is sleek, stylish and, remarkably, boasts the city’s first rooftop lounge, with cracking city views. Rooms from $279. (138 King Street, +1 415 200 4977; hotelviasf.com)

LONDON, UK The Nobu Hotel in Shoreditch is the go-to for devotees of the global restaurant brand co-owned by Robert De Niro. With restaurateur Nobuyuki Matsuhisa at the helm, Japanese design influences abound and the “greatest hits” dishes will please loyal customers.

Rooms from £249. (10-50 Willow Street, +44 20 7683 1200; nobuhotelshoreditch.com)

3 NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK

LYON, FRANCE The Villa Maïa is a lone wolf in a city of old-world hotels.

Contemporary luxe at its best, rooms have a restful colour palette, while downstairs is a riot of hues. Its location makes for superb views too, while the Michelin-starred restaurant, Têtedoie, makes for finest dining.

Rooms from €450. (8 rue du Professeur Pierre Marion, +33 478 160 101; villa-maia.com) 118 |

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Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT Brenda’s

SMART CITY

and chained to the library or the lab. Far from it. In my work I see the unwavering energy and enthusiasm of academics. They support students’ endeavours and then give them the confidence to submit to the UA. Others spend their summers adjudicating the thousands of papers we receive. All this just to embolden the next generation of thinkers in their field.

4 BRENDA CULLEN is executive director of the Undergraduate Awards, a non-profit organisation that awards exceptional undergraduate students globally. This year the programme received almost 6,500 submissions and UA will welcome 150 winners and highly commended entrants to its annual Global Summit in Dublin this November 7-10.

1

Appreciate passion. One of the stand-out lessons I’ve learnt from my career in academia is that students have a unique type of passion that can become diluted over time. UA harnesses this energy and gives students the chance to present their work to a group of international peers at an event that we call UPresent.

The impact is so powerful and contagious, that everyone comes away with food for thought and renewed interest.

2

Networks are powerful.

I know that, when studying, it’s often unusual to discuss your

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work with someone outside your own department, let alone someone from a different country. This means that networks are narrow, which can make your perspective narrow too. Last year, the UA Global Summit brought together students from 38 countries, developing links across disciplines and cultures, opening possibilities for collaboration and widening everyone’s viewpoint.

3

Academics care. I have found that lecturers and researchers are often unfairly presumed to be solitary and out-of-touch, uninterested in students’ work

Ireland celebrates learning. Ireland is a world-famous destination for study.

My role has made me even more aware that ours is a society that celebrates scholarship across all disciplines, from literature to science and from art to engineering.

5

The future is interdisciplinary. Having worked in academia, manufacturing, commerce, the service industry and a not-for-profit organisation, I know the value of learning from different sectors.

Multi-disciplinary academic environments encourage creative and lateral thinking. It’s brilliant to see Ireland setting the global standard for this.

6

Healthy body, healthy mind. In order to pursue academic excellence and apply yourself to whatever you are passionate about, most of us need physical exercise and other activities to sharpen and clear our minds.

I’m lucky to live by the sea in beautiful Co Wicklow, which gives me great opportunities for outdoor pursuits.

DESTINATION With family living nearby I frequently visit Barcelona.

The Modernista architecture is wonderful and the city has a vibrant, bustling atmosphere. It’s so easy to get from the airport directly to the city centre too (Plaça de Catalunya), with the Aerobus leaving every five minutes.

EAT I regularly visit the mouth-watering food market Boquería (boqueria.info), just off La Rambla. A good place to watch the world go by with an aperitif is the iconic Café Zurich at Plaça de Catalunya (eltriangle.es), and for an excellent (and great value) lunch, La Mar Salada (lamarsalada.cat).

SLEEP Stay at the remarkably inexpensive and beautiful, Anakena House. It is a boutique B&B – just nine bedrooms – in a Modernista palace on Barcelona’s Golden Mile, just two blocks from the elegant Passeig de Gràcia. anakenahouse.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona up to three times daily.

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Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome aboard 126 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Boxsets 138 Music & Radio

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Welcome aboard Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!

Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on Youtube.

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. .

Conas atá tú? Ho w are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you.

When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

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Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times.

We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

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Are you ready for take-off and landing?

• Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode?

• Is your seatback fully upright?

• Is your armrest down?

• Is your tabletop stowed?

• Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting.

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

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Your comfort and safety Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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A safe flight for everyone. It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

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Fógr a Sábh áilteacht Pour votre Sécurité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Seguridad

• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

• Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

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• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

• Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

• Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

• You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

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Box Office Movies

Baby Driver

Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky featuring a number of Oscar nominated films and actors.

Alien: Covenant

R

Baby Driver

After being coerced into working for a crime boss, a young getaway driver finds himself taking part in a heist doomed to fail.

R

Chips

R

Diary of a Wimpy Kid: The Long Haul

PG

Everything, Everything

PG13

121 mins | Action The crew of a colony ship discover an uncharted paradise. Stars Michael Fassbender, Katherine Waterston, Billy Crudup

113 mins | Action A talented getaway driver relies on the beat of his personal soundtrack to be the best.

Stars Jamie Foxx, Lily James, Ansel Elgort, Jon Hamm

100 mins | Action A newbie is teamed with a pro at the Highway Patrol. Stars Michael Peña, Dax Shepard, Jessica McNamee

92 mins | Comedy A Heffley family road trip goes hilariously off course.

Stars Jason Drucker, Alicia Silverstone, Tom Everett Scott

96 mins | Drama A teenage girl falls for the boy next door. Stars Amandla Stenberg, Nick Robinson, Anika Noni Rose

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN DE

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

My Cousin Rachel

PG13

105 mins | Drama A young Englishman plots revenge against his cousin.

Stars Rachel Weisz, Sam Claflin, Iain Glen EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

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Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Men Tell No Tales

PG13

129 mins | Action Captain Jack Sparrow searches for Poseidon‘s trident. Stars Johnny Depp, Geoffrey Rush EN FR DE IT ES

Snatched

R

Spider-Man: Homecoming

PG13

91 mins | Action A young woman travels with her mother to an exotic paradise. Stars Amy Schumer, Goldie Hawn, Joan Cusack

125 mins | Action Peter tries to balance his life, but a new threat emerges.

Stars Tom Holland, Michael Keaton, Robert Downey Jr

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

The Big Sick 119 mins | Comedy A couple deals with their cultural differences.

Stars Kumail Nanjiani, Zoe Kazan, Holly Hunter EN

R

Wonder Woman

Before she OURwas Wonder Woman, she was Diana, ILM TOPofF the Princess OICE Amazons, CHwarrior. trained When a pilot crashes and tells of conflict in the outside world, she leaves home to fight a war, discovering her full powers and true destiny.

OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO

Gifted

PG13

Going in Style

PG13

101 mins | Drama Frank is drawn into a custody battle with his mother.

Stars Chris Evans, Mckenna Grace, Lindsay Duncan

96 mins | Comedy Lifelong pals risk it all by embarking on a daring bid.

Stars Michael Caine, Morgan Freeman, Peter Serafinowicz

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

The Fate of the Furious

PG13

136 mins | Action A mysterious woman seduces Dom into terrorism and betrayal. Stars Vin Diesel, Jason Statham, Dwayne Johnson EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

The House

R

King Arthur: PG13 Legend of the Sword

Kong: Skull Island

136 mins | Action The team unravels the mystery of Peter‘s true parentage. Stars Chris Pratt, Zoe Saldana

126 mins | Action Arthur‘s legacy starts once he pulls a sword from a stone.

Stars Charlie Hunnam, Aidan Gillen, Jude Law

118 mins | Action Scientists explore an uncharted island in the Pacific. Stars Tom Hiddleston, Brie Larson, Samuel L Jackson

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Guardians of the Galaxy Vol 2

Wonder Woman

PG13

PG13

Despicable Me 3

PG

PG13

The Boss Baby

PG

88 mins | Comedy A dad convinces his friends to start an illegal casino.

Stars Will Ferrell, Amy Poehler, Ryan Simpkins

134 mins | Action Diana discovers her true destiny when she leaves home. Stars Gal Gadot, Chris Pine, Robin Wright

90 mins | KidZone Gru meets his twin Dru for one last criminal heist.

Voiced by Steve Carell, Kristen Wiig, Trey Parker

97 mins | KidZone A suit-wearing baby stops the dastardly plot of the CEO of Puppy Co. Voiced

by Alec Baldwin, Steve Buscemi, Jimmy Kimmel

EN FR DE ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |

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Movie Classics Analyze This 103 mins | Stars Robert De Niro, Billy Crystal

We also provide a selection of classic movies to choose from. Also on board are novels which have made the successful translation to film such as Gone Girl, Gulliver‘s Travels and The Fault in our Stars. A selection of Irish short films and features are also available.

Bad Boys R 119 mins | Stars Will Smith, Martin Lawrence, Lisa Boyle

Beetlejuice 92 mins | Stars Alec Baldwin, Geena Davis

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR

EN FR ES

EN

Focus R 105 mins | Stars Will Smith, Margot Robbie

Get Hard R 100 mins | Stars Will Ferrell, Kevin Hart, Alison Brie

Goldfinger PG 110 mins | Stars Sean Connery, Honor Blackman

Gone Girl 149 mins | Stars Ben Affleck, Rosamund Pike

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

Gulliver‘s Travels 83 mins | Stars Jack Black

Harry Potter PG13 and the Order of the Phoenix

In Her Shoes PG13 130 mins | Stars Toni Collette, Cameron Diaz

Interview R with the Vampire 123 mins | Stars Brad Pitt, Tom Cruise

Marley & Me PG 115 mins | Stars Owen Wilson, Jennifer Aniston

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

EN

EN FR DE IT CCEN

Police Academy PG 5: Assignment Miami Beach 90 mins | Stars Bubba Smith

Rush Hour PG13 96 mins | Stars Jackie Chan, Chris Tucker, Ken Leung

Scream 111 mins | Stars Neve Campbell, Courteney Cox

Spy R 116 mins | Stars Rose Byrne, Melissa McCarthy, Jude Law

The Birdcage 117 mins | Stars Robin Williams, Gene Hackman

EN

EN FR DE

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

The Fault PG13 in our Stars 122 mins | Stars Shailene Woodley

The PG13 Monuments Men 118 mins | Stars George Clooney

The Shawshank R Redemption 142 mins | Stars Morgan Freeman

There‘s Something About Mary 115 mins | Stars Cameron Diaz

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE

EN FR DE ES

R

PG

130 mins | Stars Daniel Radcliffe

PG

R

Caddyshack 98 mins | Stars Chevy Chase, Bill Murray

R

Charlie and The Chocolate Factory 115 mins | Stars Johnny Depp

PG

EN FR DE IT ES

R

R

Gremlins 106 mins | Stars Zach Galligan, Phoebe Cate

PG

R

(500) Days PG13 of Summer 93 mins | Stars Zooey Deschanel EN FR DE IT ES

I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S

Halal PG13 Daddy 95 mins | Stars Nikesh Patel, Colm Meaney

Noob PG13 11 mins | Stars Frankie McCafferty, Ciaran Flynn

Pat PG13 12 mins | Stars Jon Kenny, Jack Walsh, John Creedon

Revolutions PG13 88 mins | Documentary about women‘s roller derby

The R Betrayal 26 mins | Stars Kamila Dydyna, Miriam Devitt

The R Captors 16 mins | Stars Stuart Graham, Seamus O‘Hara

The Climb PG13 9 mins | Stars Joanne Crawford, Ian Beattie

The Nation PG13 Holds its Breath 20 mins | Stars Barbara Brennan

EN

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1E7R 20 INN W

LIFEST YLE

Be Your Own Boss S1, EP2, Riyaaz is in the middle of launching his upcoming project Class Swap S1, EP1, Irish students sample school life in the EU

TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.

Looking For The Hobbit The Lord of the Rings is one of the masterpieces of twentieth-century fiction, but what inspired J.R.R. Tolkien in the creation of this epic story? Join John Howe as he travels to Cornwall in the footsteps of King Arthur to explore the relationship between major European legends and this epic tale. On board is Series 1, Episode 3.

BUSINESS

D O C U M E N TA R Y

CNN: Great Big Story S1, EP5, The world of film making and the magic behind it Global Conversation Compilation, A platform on which Euronews questions world leaders Institute of Art and Ideas Three episodes including March of the Machines (discussing artificial intelligence), Everything we know is wrong (does Science know everything?), Fantasy Living (lives and relationships on social media) Talk Asia Gordon Ramsay is at the helm of a multi-million empire C O M E DY

How I Met Your Mother S8, EP2, 3 & 4, Ted‘s epic search for love It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia S11, EP5, 6 & 7, A group of friends run a pub in Philadelphia New Girl S5, EP5, 6 & 7, Jess lives with Schmidt, Nick and Winston The Big Bang Theory S9, EP6, 7 & 8, Two socially awkward scientists and their friends The Grinder S1, EP3, 4 & 5, A television lawyer moves back home

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10 Things to Know About…

S1, EP2, Advances in robotics, biomaterials and others Beer Geeks S1, EP15, Ferguson visits Portland Fruit Beer Festival Building Ireland S2, EP3, Ireland‘s great building and engineering achievements Jigs and Wigs S1, EP1, The O‘Brien family make their mark in the Irish dance Looking For The Hobbit S1, EP3, In the search for Hobbits, John travels to Cornwall Rock The Park S2, EP1, Cumberland National Seashore Short History of the World S1, EP2, A travel guide to Chinatown The Shelbourne S1, EP2, Behind the scenes at The Shelbourne Hotel in Dublin Wild Seas of Ireland S1, EP2, Ireland‘s Ocean predators Wonder Women S1, EP1, The Ama Free Divers brave the icy waters of Japan

Close Up S1, EP24, Tom Hanks Culturefox S1, EP11, A guide to Irish events by the Arts Council Don‘t Tell The Bride (Ireland) S4, EP 4, Stephen Carroll & Elaine Tierney Find My First Love S1, EP1, Alicia studied in France and fell in love Room To Improve S9, EP3, Aoife and Mel‘s house in Baldoyle Simply Nigella S1, EP2, Mouthwatering food from Nigella The Legend of Mick Dodge 2 S1, EP1, Mountain man Karl hands over some of Mick‘s family relics The Story of God with Morgan Freeman S1, EP4, The power of miracles

Videojug A selection of how-to videos containing tips and advice on a range of topics including beauty, style, food and drink, money and careers.

SPORT

Break Boys S1, EP1, The Skill Brat Renegades breakdance crew Game of Strange S1, EP1, Hilarious sporting events Idris Elba: Fighter S1, EP1, Idris Elba trains to become a fighter National Icons S1, EP2, The biggest names in sport take on the greatest legends Sporting Heroes S1, EP1, Mike Tyson‘s controversial life Sporting Rivalries S1, EP3, Real Madrid and Barcelona K I DZ O N E

Doodle‘s House From a cow’s squiggle to a hairdo with chickens!

Dora the Explorer S7, EP7, Dora has a big surprise for Perrito Giving Tales S1, EP1–9, Hans Christian Anderson‘s fairy tales Justice League Action S2, EP2, Shadow of the Hawk SamSam The adventures of Yakari and his horse Little Thunder SpongeBob Squarepants S8, EP8, Spongebob and Patrick‘s adventures Victorious S3, EP7, Tori goes to ‘The Gorilla Club‘ NEWS & EVENTS

In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

Talk Asia – Gordon Ramsay In an exclusive CNN interview Gordon Ramsay discusses his rough beginnings and how a childhood fraught with uncertainty gave him the fire to reach for his goals. Now 50 years old he boasts a multi-million dollar empire including three Michelin stars, 35 restaurants and multiple television shows.

Historic O’Neill’s

DISCOVER THE INTRIGUING TALE OF IRISH WHISKEY!

the famous Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

• Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous • Pour Your Own Pint tables Carvery serving only the finest Irish • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s Lonely Planet rate us as one of the our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a Top 5 Places to find ‘Real Irish food fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys in Dublin’ and malts • Irish Music and Traditional Irish • HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan Dancing 7 nights-a-week with major international league games.

• Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Largest selection of local Irish can’t be beaten for quality and value.

Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, 11 items plus tea/coffee, toast, jam representing as many of the local and butter is only €8.95, Pictured Craft Breweries as possible, rotating below. This special offer is available and guesting beers Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am.

Biggest Selection of Irish Whiskey Whiskey & Brunch Experience Guided tours Whiskey courses Venue hire Voted Whiskey tastings Top 10 in Dublin

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

The Chef carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery.

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

BOOK NOW! Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

+353 (0) 1 525 0970 WWW.IRISHWHISKEYMUSEUM.IE 119 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2

(OPPOSITE MAIN ENTRANCE OF TRINITY COLLEGE)

The Leftovers Season 2 R

Boxsets

In the second season of this enthralling series, Kevin and others pick up the pieces in the aftermath of the Mapleton riots, Laurie tries to spread the word about the dangers of the Guilty Remnant, Nora awakens in the midst of an earthquake to find Kevin missing, Matt seeks answers about his wife's condition, and much more.

Choose from five boxsets to watch on board today. Delve into historical time-travel series, Outlander, the horror drama The Walking Dead or the post-apocalyptic The Leftovers.

Also on board are Vikings and Gotham.

Created by Damon Lindelof, Emmy Award winner for Lost, and acclaimed novelist Tom Perrotta. Cast regulars for season two include Justin Theroux, Amy Brenneman, Christopher Eccleston, Liv Tyler, Carrie Coon, Ann Dowd, Margaret Qualley, Chris Zylka, Regina King, Kevin Carroll, Jovan Adepo and Janel Moloney. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 2.

The Walking Dead, Season 6/7

R

Episode 9: Daryl, Abraham and Sasha face-off against the Saviors.

Episode 10: Rick and Daryl cross paths with Jesus.

Episode 11: Jesus takes Rick and the group to the Hilltop Colony.

Episode 12: Rick leads a surprise attack against the Saviors.

Episode 13: Carol and Maggie must fight for their lives.

Episode 14: A supply run led by Daryl turns chaotic.

Episode 15: Rick and Morgan set out in the search for Carol.

Episode 16: Morgan continues his search for Carol.

Episode 1: Rick and the group kneel helplessly as they suffer a loss.

Episode 2: Carol and Morgan are brought to a community.

Vikings, Season 4

R

Episode 1: Events unfold beyond Ragnar‘s control.

Episode 2: Ragnar and Floki are still at odds.

Episode 3: Ragnar tells Floki he has to pay a price for his actions.

Episode 4: Ragnar gets to know the new slave woman.

Episode 5: Halfdan the Black arrives in Kattegat.

Episode 6: Ragnar reveals his plan to raid Paris again.

Episode 7: Ragnar carries out his plan of attack.

Episode 8: After facing defeat, Ragnar refuses to retreat.

Episode 9: The Vikings finally reach the river.

Episode 10: Ragnar must fight against Rollo.

Gotham, Season 3

PG13

Episode 1: Gordon looks for answers about the escapees.

Episode 2: Fish Mooney takes matters into her own hands.

Episode 3: A hypnotist arrives in Gotham to search for his sister.

Episode 4: Penguin gains leverage over Gotham City.

Episode 5: Penguin struggles to uphold his promises to the city.

Episode 6: Mad Hatter sets his eyes on his next victims.

Episode 7: Jim Gordon gets led on a psychedelic trip.

Episode 8: Captain Barnes starts to go mad.

Episode 9: Gordon and Bullock become suspicious of Barnes.

Episode 10: A threat to Leslie and Mario is exposed.

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Outlander Season 2

R

Season two of this historical time-travel series finds Claire (played by award-winning Irish actress Caitriona Balfe), Jamie and Murtagh in Paris as they plan to infiltrate the Royal Court of France, forge allegiances and disrupt the Jacobite Rebellion.

The earthiness and organic colours of the Scottish Highlands have been exchanged for stylish Parisian costumes, colours and architecture, but the wildness of the Highlands is never far away as life-changing battles loom on the horizon for all concerned. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 2.

DIVIDE AND

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New GUINNESS® BACON CHEESEBURGER Topped with Jameson bacon jam and GUINNESS cheese sauce, served with crisp lettuce and vine-ripened tomato.

HARD ROCK CAFE FLEET STREET • TEMPLE BAR DUBLIN 2 TEL: 671 7777 • HARDROCK.COM join hardrockrewards.com

DJ Khaled

Music & Radio

Grateful is the tenth full-length studio release by rapper and producer DJ Khaled, presenting 23 tracks and an impressive list of top-tier guests. In this album, he continues to dominate the charts with the highlights: the star-studded and bright I’m The One, as well as sweet summer anthem Wild Thoughts.

Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

Lyric Concert with Paul Herriott RTÉ Lyric FM Vox Nostra RTÉ Lyric FM EASY LISTENING

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels INDIE

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM IRISH

Ceol na Gael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E

Happy Days with Clara Clara Murray, RTÉ Junior ROCK

Marty Miller Radio Nova SPOTLIGHT

Gavin James Bitter Pill is the debut album from Dublin singer-songwriter Gavin James, featuring the popular hits For You and and the eponymous title track which won Irish Song of the Year at Ireland’s Choice Music Prize in 2015 138 |

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POP

98FM Big Flight Home

Eoghan McDermott 2FM Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs Living in the 80s RTÉ Gold Digital Radio 98FM Big Flight Home Dara Quilty, 98FM Shay Byrne – Rising Time RTÉ Radio 1

Dara Quilty drives Dublin home every day with 98FM’s Big Ride Home. Now, he brings us his Big Flight Home with some of the biggest Irish acts of 2017. Featuring Graceful Dancer by his band Apella, the broadcaster has long had aspirations of rock stardom.

TA L K

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One We offer two documentaries on this flight. The first is on cyclist Stephen Roche and his historic triple crown win in 1987. The second, on the largely unknown Irishman behind James Bond AU D I O B O O K

Fenian‘s Trace The story of two boys raised as brothers in early 1900s Ireland who choose different paths when the rebellion comes but fall in love with the same woman. Written by Sean P Mahoney and narrated by Liam Carney

Lyric Concert with Paul Herriott The Lyric Concert with Paul Herriott celebrates the very best of live classical music from music venues and festivals throughout Ireland. Dive into Franz Schubert‘s Octet in A Major recorded at the West Cork Chamber Music Festival 2017 and enjoy the timeless beauty of classical music.

Jessie James Decker Jessie James Decker is laying it out live with the release of her new EP. Blackbird Sessions features live versions of several of Jessie’s favourite songs, including covers of Keith Urban’s Blue Ain’t Your Color along with a stripped rendition of Girl on the Coast from her recently released EP, Gold.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

AC/DC Let There Be Rock Aretha Franklin The Tender, the Moving, the Swinging Aretha Franklin Barbra Streisand Back to Broadway Billy Ocean Here You Are: The Best of Billy Ocean Paul Simon Graceland The Jacksons Goin‘ Places A LT E R N AT I V E

Alexandra Savior Belladonna of Sadness London Grammar Truth is a Beautiful Thing MISSIO Loner The Black Moods Medicine The Shins Heartworms Vancouver Sleep Clinic Revival CL ASSIC AL

2Cellos Score Arcadi Volodos Volodos Plays Brahms Benjamin Appl Heimat Marion Treupel-Franck Voice of the Soul – Flute Music by Jean Daniel Braun Simone Dinnerstein Mozart in Havana The Piano Guys So Far, So Good

COUNTRY

Brad Paisley Love and War Jessie James Decker Blackbird Sessions Levon Levon Old Crow Medicine Show 50 Years of Blonde on Blonde (Live) Ward Thomas A Shorter Story Willie Nelson God‘s Problem Child

We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!

Lea Michele Places is Lea Michele’s much anticipated sophomore album.

Returning to her musical roots, the stages of Broadway can be heard in each note and her voice is as strong as ever.

Exploring the theme of love, Michele evokes the trials and tribulations of modern relationships through her sultry vocals.

JA Z Z

Baptiste Trotignon & Yosvany Terry Ancestral Memories Bria Skonberg With a Twist Larry Coryell & Steve Khan Two for the Road Preservation Hall Jazz Band So It Is Somi Petite Afrique Triosence Hidden Beauty M E TA L

ELEC TRO

Faithless Sunday 8 PM Jean-Michel Jarre Electronica 1: The Time Machine Major Lazer Peace is the Mission Michael Bersch Departure Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Memories..Do Not Open IR ISH

Celtic Thunder Emmet Cahill‘s Ireland Christy Moore King Puck Daithi In Flight Damien Dempsey Soulsun Scoops Beautiful World Tim Chadwick Early Days

Bullet for My Valentine Fever In Flames Clayman Judas Priest Turbo 30 Ozzy Osbourne Diary of a Madman Papa Roach Crooked Teeth Soilwork The Living Infinite OPER A

Leonard BernsteinACT01 West Side Story Olga Peretyatko, Ural Philharmonic Orchestra & Dimitry Liss Russian Light Paul Potts One Chance Plácido Domingo,Pablo Heras-Casado & Orquestra de la Comunitat Valenciana Verdi The London Oratory Schola Cantorum Boys Choir Sacred Treasures of England

P OP

Betty Who The Valley Calvin Harris Funk Wav Bounces Vol 1 Harry Styles Harry Styles Lea Michele Places Pentatonix PTX, Vol IV – Classics Wizkid Sounds from the Other Side RNB

Aaliyah Age Ain‘t Nothing but a Number Bryson Tiller True to Self DJ Khaled Grateful Kid Ink 7 Series Saint Wknd Golden Youth Various Artists Throwback Grooves – Ministry of Sound

ROCK

COIN How Will You Know if You Never Try David Bowie No Plan John Mayer The Search for Everything Kasabian For Crying Out Loud Sundara Karma Youth is Only Ever Fun in Retrospect The Low Budget Men Mirror Games K I DZ O N E

Arthur Fiedler Classics For Children City of London Sinfonia; Stuart Hancock We‘re Going on a Bear Hunt Hans Christian Anderson Giving Tales Judson Mancebo Baby Orchestra Plays U2 Various Artists Baby Classics

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Where are you flying to?

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens.

Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have.

Here you can, collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Passport Control and Security Screening

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Geataí Gates

101-335

Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Departure Gate

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow

401-426

Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Flight Connections for North American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

For Sale by Private Treaty “Seaview House”, Lower Rosses, Rosses Point, Co. Sligo.

A lifetime opportunity to acquire this bespoke architecturally designed Irish residence. A peaceful and private hideaway located in the heart of the Yeats County on Lower Rosses Point, with wonderful uninterrupted views of Drumcliff Bay and the commanding Benbulben. Seaview House is nestled on c.5.5 acres of wild meadow, cleverly hidden away in a sheltered bay with private access to a pebbled beach.

Accommodation of c.5,500 square ft, comprising of 6 bedrooms finished to the highest of standards. This fine home offers privacy and seclusion, yet is in convenient proximity to the full amenities of Sligo City just 10 minute’s drive and Ireland West Airport just 40 minutes. Price on Application.

4 Teeling Street, Sligo, F91 HE36, Ireland Jonathan Mc Goldrick MIPAV MCEI +353(0)87 9300300 Marc Mac Sharry MIPAV MCEI +353(0)71 914884 +353 (0) 71 914 8884 E-mail: info@osmg.ie Web: www.osmg.ie PSRA - 002395-003297

Our European and North American Route Network

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver

Thunder Bay

Victoria Seattle Duluth

Traverse

Minneapolis Eugene

Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Medford

Grand Rapids

Omaha

Des Moines

Denver

Reno

Kansas City

Fort Wayne Akron Canton Chicago

Fresno Las Vegas Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Palm Springs Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Cincinnati

Phoenix Tucson

Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

El Paso Houston

Providence

Boston

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Austin

Honolulu Kahului

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis Little Rock

Halifax

Portland ME

Washington (National)

Lexington

Nashville

Albany

Hartford

Newark

Washington (Dulles)

Springfield

San Jose

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Moncton

Burlington Syracuse

Columbus Harrisburg

Dayton

Indianapolis

St Louis

Oakland

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Toronto

Fredericton

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

San Antonio

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to ten US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet) Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by City Flyer)

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Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America.

Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Cork

s

Hamburg

Birmingham

London (Heathrow) London (City) Bristol Cardiff London (Gatwick) Exeter Newquay Southampton

Jersey

Amsterdam

Berlin

Warsaw

DĂźsseldorf Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid

Alicante Murcia Malaga Faro

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Athens Catania

Izmir

Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

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Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

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For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

Staying connected on board*

Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.

THE SMARICTE CHO

Aer Social

Aer Max

€6.95

€13.95

€29.95

UP TO 50MB

UP TO 120MB

UP TO 250MB

$7.95

Mobile Network on board

With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**.

Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

1 Switch on

$15.95

$32.95

Wi-Fi on board in six steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode.

Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Aeromobile

2 Connect

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

3 Welcome SMS

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

International roaming rates apply.

4 Connected

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 146 |

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3 Purchase Internet Access

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.

WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating.

Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.

Aerlingus.com

Traditional Steak & Seafood Restaurant and Bar

On the banks of the Liffey in the picturesque Strawberry Beds, 15mins from the city

Traditional Irish Music 7 Nights

Serving the finest seafood & traditional dishes

Anglers Rest, Strawberry Beds, Chapelizod, Dublin 20 Ph: 353 (01) 820 4351 Email: info@theanglersrest.ie www.theanglersrest.ie

MASTER SERIES

PALETTE ONE

www.blankcanvascosmetics.com

Available in major pharmacies nationwide and online While Stocks Last

BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

TIME a fter TIME

With the changing of the seasons comes the changing of the time. Here's our pick of watches to help adjust to the clocks going back.

ORLA KIELY STEM PRINT WATCH

Channel the 1960s with this bright and stylish watch from Orla Kiely.

CLUSE LA BOHÈME WATCH

This classic timepiece with rose gold detail also comes with a black leather strap for extra styling options.

SKAGEN MELBYE STEEL & TITANIUM WATCH

A sleek yet practical watch with a clean design that's a must-buy for minimalists.

KARTEL HUME NAVY SUNRAY

A simple leather strap and silver case give this watch a look that will never go out of fashion.

SEKONDA LADIES MESH WATCH

The gold-plated case and white stone face make for an elegant day or night look.

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HEAVEN’S GATE

HELEN LAWSON

TRIP OF A LIFETIME | SKELLIG MICHAEL

Colin Stafford-Johnson is an award-winning cameraman, director, broadcaster and well-known face on Irish TV, thanks to his RTÉ and BBC series Wild Ireland: The Edge of the World, Living the Wildlife and On a River in Ireland. y mission was to spend a year filming and exploring the west coast of Ireland by sea.

I had chosen a currach as my vessel – a rowing craft designed for these seas by men who made a living from these waters. It’s composed of a light wooden frame, traditionally covered by animal skin, oft replaced now by Kevlar.

A currach is light so that it can be carried ashore if needs be and, as a result, is very responsive. One senses every breeze, every turn in the tide, every current, every ripple and every wave. It enables one to feel almost viscerally connected with the ocean.

Every journey has to begin somewhere and mine began on the Skelligs – two great pyramid

M

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Well focused – islands of sandstone that lie some Colin Stafford12 kilometres off the Kerry coast.

Johnson presents The larger of the two is Skellig a nationwide Michael, my first port of call. It was multimedia talk inhabited by monks for hundreds this November of years but was abandoned by 1-22, offering an the 12th century. They sought insight into his desolation and peace and found it 30-year career. here. They built their monastery The tour starts in on the top of the island and Bray, Co Wicklow, constructed great staircases of and finishes stone to access it. Ascending those in Waterford. steps one evening in early summer, there is indeed a sense of climbing josarsby.com/colinstafford-johnson to the heavens.

The view from the summit is one of absolute global quality. To the east lies Little Skellig, bathed in white by tens of thousands of nesting gannets, beyond that the sculpted, mountainous outline of the Kerry coast. To the north, the Dingle peninsula and the Blasket

Islands. To the south, framed by the beehive huts of the monastery below me, more distant islands and, to the west, the sun dipped into a vast ocean that appeared to have no end. This is why the monks came here. Back then this was the edge of the known world.

I dropped off the summit and entered the monastery courtyard in the gathering darkness and sat amongst the beehive huts. First came the relative silence as the diurnal birds quietened, and then an extraordinary and beautiful whirring sound began. First one, then another and soon the entire monastery was filled with these calls. Hidden amongst the stones are the nests of storm petrels, tiny robin-sized oceanic birds that come here to breed in summer and, in the dead of night, they call for their mates. Each parent takes a turn to incubate the single egg and now it was time to swap duties. They are very vulnerable to predation by gulls, so they can’t come to the island by day as they would just be gobbled up.

The mates that had been feeding at sea all day began to arrive, almost like bats. I could sense them more than see them.

Then another sound began.

Someone once described it as a raucous collection of croons, howls and screams. That will suffice. All I know is that I was glad I knew what they were, otherwise they’d have frightened the life out of me.

The birds responsible are Manx shearwaters, the petrels’ bigger cousins, which come ashore at this time for the same reasons. They nest underground in burrows.

I have seen rabbits, shearwaters and puffins all come out of the same burrow and I wonder how they divide up the space underground.

Much of the world breeding population of both these bird species nests in Ireland. They are really the most Irish of birds but few Irish people have ever heard them. By three in the morning, the sounds began to dissipate, the silence to return. Day one of my journey over – gone but never forgotten.