Cara October/November 2018

October/November 2018

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

KERRY CONDON

FROM TIPPERARY TO TINSELTOWN SLIGO • PARIS • CHICAGO • WASHINGTON DC • DÜSSELDORF

NORTH DUBLIN COASTAL VILLAGES Baily Lighthouse, Howth

CONTENTS

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

CHECK IN

4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news and exciting developments 8 ARRIVALS There we are now, meeting and greeting at Dublin’s T2

11 CHECK IN This season’s hot-to-trot events, trends, eats and sleeps 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican shares her literary loves 32 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Around the world with actor Aaron Monaghan

78

34 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins’ Montréal culture crawl 36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO MONACO Does my yacht look big in this? asks Rebecca McVeigh

Quirky Quartier

FEATURES

38 ACING THE SPOTLIGHT Ross McDonagh is delighted to meet an unstarry Kerry Condon 44 SIBLING SUCCESSES Thomas Breathnach talks shop with entrepreneurial kinfolk 52 SECRET SLIGO Yvonne Gordon explores Yeats Country’s lesser-spotted nooks and crannies 62 GAME ON Raf Miastkowski tackles Chicago’s sporty side 78 VIVACIOUS VILLE Paris – but not as we know it, as seen through the glorious lens of Conor Horgan

44

88 DISHY DC As the US midterm elections hot up, photographer Jennifer Chase mellows out in the capital’s most exciting restaurants

Family Affair

REGULARS

88 Potomac Supreme

73

10 SIPPING SOJOURNS Nicola Brady raises a toast to booze breaks

99

5 SPELLBINDING CEMETERIES Vic O’Sullivan gets his Halloween on

106 48 HOURS IN MINNEAPOLIS Amy Zavatto’s Midwestern marvels 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info, entertainment and retail 152 SHORT STORY A bite-sized read

by Cecelia Ahern, from her new book Roar

52

Secluded Sligo

BUSINESS

110 BUSINESS & LIFE Düsseldorf’s lofty ambitions belie its modest size, finds Fiona Leonard 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE It’s a dog’s life for Gary Redmond of BusterBox 118 SHANNON SHEEN Limerick’s Strand Hotel, plus new lodgings in Paris, Hamburg and Vienna

120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Viddyad’s Gràinne Barron’s insights from San Francisco’s Bay Area

Alaïa Alexander McQueen Aveda Balenciaga bareMinerals Bobbi Brown Bottega Veneta Burberry Canada Goose Céline Chanel Charlotte Tilbury Chloé Christian Louboutin Claudie Pierlot Cloon Keen Dior Dolce & Gabbana Erdem Fendi Ferguson Irish Linen Foxford Woolen Mills Frédéric Malle Ganni Giorgio Armani Beauty Givenchy Gucci Hermès Huda Beauty Lainey Keogh Jimmy Choo Jo Malone London JW Anderson KDK Kilian La Mer La Prairie Laura Mercier Loewe Louis Vuitton Louise Kennedy Lucy Nagle lululemon M.A.C Maje Manolo Blahnik Max Benjamin Max Mara Memo Paris Miu Miu Moncler Mulberry Nars Paul Smith Prada Rathbornes Rixo Saint Laurent Paris Sandro Sisley Stella McCartney The Kooples Tiffany & Co Tom Ford Valentino Versace Victoria Beckham Waterford Crystal Yves Saint Laurent Zadig & Voltaire Zegna

Brown Thomas is Ireland’s most beautiful department store featuring the best brands in the world Dublin Cork Limerick Galway

Our flagship store, a landmark on Dublin’s Grafton Street since 1849, is the luxury destination for Women, Men, Beauty, Home and Gifting brownthomas.com

CARA Magazine October/November 2018

WELCOME ABOARD It’s official! Planning winter holidays makes us happy!

Here we share the findings of a new holiday habits survey – and announce three new Aer Lingus services. nsurprisingly, at Aer Lingus we love a good autumn/winter holiday. But have you ever considered how much happiness can be derived from your foreign forays? In order to quantify their impact, we recently commissioned research to help put a value on happiness gleaned from holidayassociated activities. And, according to our findings, peak happiness on a winter break is achieved while having the first meal and drink upon arrival at our holiday destination.

Moreover, simply having booked a winter holiday is a great mood-booster, with respondents stating that their positivity increases by 39 per cent in the three months before departure.

Accommodation planning and pre-holiday shopping are also among the things most likely to make people smile – but surpassed by the joy derived from switching on the Out of Office notification at work. So don’t let the “winter blues” get you down and book a trip today!

Staying on a happy note, we are delighted to offer you two new and exciting destinations to explore in North America.

From summer 2019, Aer Lingus guests

U

will be able to fly direct from Dublin to Montréal in Canada and Minneapolis-St Paul in the United States, increasing our number of North American destinations to 15. Famed for its Gallic heritage, Montréal is the second largest French-speaking city in the world after Paris, and, like Paris, is culturally vibrant with handsome architecture, fine food and great music.

North America’s twin cities, Minneapolis and St Paul, are bisected by the Mississippi River and both have much to offer visitors.

A top outdoor destination with 13 lakes, 500 golf courses – and in the top three of the country’s most cycling-friendly destinations – the area also boasts some of the warmest locals who are renowned for being “Minnesota Nice”. Montréal and Minneapolis-St Paul will be featured in Cara in the coming months – including in this issue on pages 34 and 106 respectively – so watch this space.

We hope to offer more exciting destinations in North America in the near future as we embark on our ambitious growth plan. A recent report launched by Aer Lingus from EY, assessing the potential economic impact of further development at Dublin Airport, found that investment could add €18.6 billion to Ireland’s GDP from 2018-2033 and is capable of creating an additional 33,950 jobs in tourism and aviation – all of which would add €6bn to the Irish exchequer. The development of Dublin Airport as a hub is something we greatly support as we strive to be the leading value carrier across the North Atlantic.

Finally, commencing on October 28, Aer Lingus will operate six daily round trips from Dublin to London City Airport on weekdays (with a reduced service at the weekends), in a new leasing agreement with City Jet. The aircraft will be in Aer Lingus livery with guests enjoying Aer Lingus’ award-winning four-star SkyTrax service.

Aer Lingus will then serve up to 50 daily flights between Dublin and three London airports each week, including Heathrow and Gatwick. Flights to London City can now be booked on aerlingus.com.

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.

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FENWAY FESTIVITIES Aer Lingus will once again bring some “lovely hurlin’” to Boston this November for the Fenway Hurling Classic and Irish Festival at the historic Fenway Park.

CATCH US IF YOU CAN In the annual charity run BUD: Runway Run at Budapest Airport, the Aer Lingus running team beat off challenges from airlines from across the World to claim the World’s Fastest Airline title.

X APPEAL As an airline partner to The X Factor 2018, Aer Lingus will be flying contestants to the judges’ houses in Los Angeles. Tune in to see how they all get on …

ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Group Editor-in-Chief Lizzie Gore-Grimes Group Contributing Editor Melanie Morris Group Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Gina Traynor Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Melanie Morris, Laura George, Robert Power

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

Chicago-based copywriter and Point Break apologist RAF MIASTKOWSKI is also the proprietor of Godspeed Supper Club and has written locally for Thrillist, Eater and the Chicago Sun-Times, among others. A longtenured fan of the Chicago Bulls and a former collegiate rowing coach at DePaul University and the University of Minnesota, Raf compiled a guide to the robust Chicago sports scene in advance of the Ireland versus Italy rugby game taking place at Soldier Field on November 3. Tackle the town starting on page 62.

Z COURTNEY

ART Art Director Niamh Richardson Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan

CONTRIBUTORS

NATHALIE MARQUE

EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Cecelia Ahern, Nicola Brady, Thomas Breathnach, Aoife Carrigy, Graham Corcoran, Aoife Dooley, Yvonne Gordon, Bridget Hourican, Tristan Hutchinson, Fiona Leonard, Rebecca McVeigh, Catherine Murphy, Tara O’Brien, Vic O’Sullivan, Ryan Pfluger, Jasmine Pulley, Johnny Savage, Niamh Tighe, Gemma Tipton, Amy Zavatto

JENNIFER CHASE is a food and travel photographer based in Washington, DC. Her work has allowed her to photograph in some of the best restaurants and hotels around the world – a job that comes with some seriously delicious benefits. For her Cara debut, Jennifer explored two of her favourite subjects: food and drink, and in her adopted hometown. The DC dining scene has been re-energised in the past few years and she believes it has become one of the top food cities in America – make up your own mind from page 88.

Filmmaker and photographer CONOR HORGAN went to Paris for a twomonth visit in 2017 and is still there. He trained as a fashion and advertising photographer before moving into writing and directing film: his Panti Bliss documentary The Queen of Ireland broke box office records in its opening weekend. Conor is aware that sitting in a garret room, looking out over Parisian rooftops and writing a screenplay is living a life of outrageous cliché, but ... turn to page 78 for his insiders’ view of Paris’ inspiring and North-East.

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Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned.

All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

October/November 2018

ON THE COVER

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

KERRY CONDON

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

FROM TIPPERARY TO TINSELTOWN SLIGO • PARIS • CHICAGO • WASHINGTON DC • DÜSSELDORF

Kerry Condon photographed

by Ryan Pfluger in the Premiere Suite at Sunset Tower Hotel in West Hollywood, assisted by Eoin Higgins. Styling by Ashley Zohar, hair by Sydney Valentine and makeup by Melissa Walsh.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

STAY CONNECTED UP HERE

TO YOUR FRIENDS DOWN THERE

WI-FI AND MOBILE NETWORK AVAILABLE ON TODAY’S FLIGHT* TEXT AND TWEET AT 30,000 FEET.

*Wi-Fi and Mobile services available on selected A330 aircraft. Charges similar to international roaming rates apply to mobile services.

WHO? Alan Singleton FLYING IN FROM ...

Brussels ALAN SAYS ... “I’ve been away for work for a few days and now it’s straight back into the office.”

WHO? Taryn Grindal and Jesse Howell FLYING IN FROM ... Paris JESSE SAYS ... “We’re from Australia and we’re here for my sister’s wedding in West Cork.”

ARRIVALS

Birthdays, weddings and semesters abroad kept T2 busy – Cara was there to greet all the in-comers.

WHO? Tahiti Dominguez and Jackie Bustamante FLYING IN FROM ... Berlin TAHITI SAYS ... “We’re from San Diego but are travelling around Europe for a bit. We’ve a few days here before we go to Barcelona.”

WHO? Alexie Hagon FLYING IN FROM ...

London ALEXIE SAYS ...

“I’m working as a barista in London but I’ve come home to celebrate my sister’s birthday.”

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WHO? Sheila Williams, Cian Burtenshaw and Peter Williams FLYING IN FROM ... Berlin PETER SAYS ... “We’ve just been in Berlin for a few days holiday – what an incredible city.”

WORDS BY NIAMH TIGHE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN

WHO? Terrence Kennell FLYING IN FROM ...

London TERRENCE SAYS ...

“I’m from Texas and spending a semester studying in London so am trying to visit as many European places as I can.”

(Ire)land in style.

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Book now on dublinairport.com

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence. See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Take the time to enjoy our MAGICAL GARDENS.

Open all year round • 5 miles from Cork • Open Monday - Sunday 9 - 6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie facebook.com/blarneycastleireland @blarney_castle blarneycastleandgardens

CHECK IN EAT · READ · GO

GLOAM SWEET GLOAM In the still of the night … you might find Dublin artist Francis Matthews

amassing source material for his oil-on-linen paintings. Using photographs as starting points, Matthews recreates beautifully rendered vacant streets and interiors, their lack of human presence at once unsettling and bewitching. His latest exhibition at Dublin’s Molesworth Gallery running October 4-31 – his fifth solo outing – showcases eight new works that span dusk until dawn, such as Tobernea, above. francismatthews.ie AERLINGUS.COM |

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STAY

4 BEST WATERSIDE HOTELS

The Twelve, Galway A short drive from the city centre, this is the perfect spot from which to explore Connemara’s coastline. The hotel has 48 rooms, whose extremely comfortable beds and VOYA toiletries are a tonic after a day out and about. Sate the appetite with casual bites and pizzas at The Pins, or with finer dining at the West restaurant. Rooms from €139. thetwelvehotel.ie

One Hotel, New York No matter what room you check into here, you’re guaranteed a magnificent view, either overlooking Brooklyn Bridge or gazing out to Lady Liberty herself. Feel smug in the rooftop pool, take sundowners at the terrace bar and dine at The Osprey – allowing time for doing diddly-squat more than stroking your very cosy dressing gown.

Rooms from $599. 1hotels.com

The Betsy, Miami Overlooking Miami’s South Beach, Betsy is a picture of serenity and luxury in a bustling neighbourhood.

Rooms in this family-owned hotel reflect the nautical surroundings, with bright-white beds and bracing splashes of colour, while Art Deco original features and nods to midcentury design pleasingly combine. Rooms from $289. thebetsyhotel.com

Farol Hotel, Cascais Portugal’s coastline is always pleasing on the eye – and so are interiors at this hotel, some 35 kilometres west of Lisbon. Each of the 33 rooms has its own personality, from invigorating reds to calming blues, thanks to the input of cuttingedge designers, and you’re never far from an excellent meal at the hotel’s two restaurants.

Rooms from €128. designhotels.com

HALLOWEEN

LITERATURE

The Write Stuff The well-written word can stimulate, agitate, unite, delight and inspire. The Boston Book Festival’s free, two-day celebration (October 12-13; bostonbookfest.org) presents more than 200 participants as diverse as food writer Michael Pollan, psycho-linguist Steven Pinker and Democratic doyen John Kerry. Meanwhile West Coast lit lovers can hear Paul Muldoon, Fintan O’Toole and also Nigerian-born Irish asylum seeker Melatu Ucha Okorie, above, speak about her book This Hostel Life at the Irish Arts & Writers Festival (October 12-14; irishwriterslosgatos.com), an hour south of San Francisco, in charming Los Gatos –a town that is twinned with Listowel, Co Kerry.

Fangtastic Fun

Samhain has always been special in Ireland, a time when our Celtic forefathers believed that the veil between this world and the next was at its most permeable. So, what better time to celebrate Bram Stoker, the Dublinborn writer and creator of Dracula, with one of his home city’s biggest annual festivals this October 26-29? Think spooky outdoor screenings and aerial shows, free family fun parks, thrilling theatre, podcasts and readings: the Bram Stoker Festival has it all. bramstokerfestival.com

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FASHION

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Show & Sell Since launching in 2012, Dublin’s Animation Art Show & Auction at The Ark has raised over €55,000 for Irish children’s charities through the auction of artwork donated by animation artists. Catch this year’s event from October 27 until November 4. ark.ie

OPERA

COMIC TOUCH

The 67th Wexford Festival Opera returns this October 19 until November 4 with rarely seen operas, double bills and a nod to the great Leonard Bernstein on the centenary of his birth. If the costumes and production design are anything to go by, though, we’re particularly jazzed about the European premiere of William Bolcom’s Dinner at Eight, right, based on a biting, comic play about an ill-fated dinner party in Depression-era Manhattan that was made into a film by George Cukor in 1933 and starred Jean Harlow. wexfordopera.com

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CORY WEAVER

THEATRE

One of Ireland’s most singular actors, Mikel Murfi wowed audiences with his metaphoric performances in Enda Walsh’s Ballyturk and The Walworth Farce. He’s back in New York’s Irish Arts Center with two companion pieces of his own: The Man in the Woman’s Shoes and I Hear You and Rejoice. Running until October 21, these critically acclaimed shows capture the multiple characters of a bustling Irish hinterland. irishartscenter.org

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT, YVES SAINT LAURENT AND A COURTESAN, KYOTO, JAPAN, 1963 © RIGHTS RESERVED; ILLUSTRATION SKETCH, 1977/MUSÉE YVES SAINT LAURENT PARIS; ILLUSTRATION SKETCH/MUSÉE YVES SAINT LAURENT PARIS

Throughout his celebrated career, Yves Saint Laurent sought inspiration from Indian, Chinese and Japanese traditional clothing for his haute couture creations. In this first themed exhibition since last year’s opening of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, Yves Saint Laurent: Dreams of the Orient from October 2 until January 27, 2019, gathers designs inspired by YSL’s “imaginary travels” through the regional folklore, traditions and sartorial tics of Asia, displaying them alongside Asian artworks from the Guimet Museum and private collectors. museeyslparis.com

E X P E R I E N C E

MAGICAL MOMENTS THIS CHRISTMAS Come celebrate your Festive season in the stylish surroundings of Conrad Dublin and let us help you create your most inspired, magical and lasting memories this Christmas.

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland | Phone +353-1-602 8900 | ConradDublin.com

CONRADDUBLIN.COM

#STAYINSPIRED

2018

DIASPORA

FEELING the FORCE

A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away … actually, to 2015, when Limerick man Eoghan Cunneen moved to San Francisco for a plum job as senior engineer at Lucasfilm Ltd. He’s on the cutting-edge of technological innovation for ‘immersive entertainment’ that’s coming to a cinema – or theme park – near you.

What brought you to San Francisco? It was summer 2014 and I was living in Montréal, Canada. I went on vacation to San Francisco and met Irishman Colum Slevin, who is now head of experiences at Oculus.

After discussing our interests in visual effects, animation and storytelling, he suggested I get in touch with Lucasfilm’s Advanced Development Group as they had been working on some projects he thought I might find interesting.

I started chatting with Lucasfilm soon after and moved to San Francisco in February 2015.

What does a typical work day look like? I’d love to claim that I rise at 5am, do yoga, and meditate before breakfast … but the truth is I’m usually up around 7.30am after hitting the snooze button several times. I’ll usually do some email and correspondence in the morning over breakfast before getting to the Lucasfilm offices in Presidio Park around 9.30am.

From there, the day is far from routine. I’m a software engineer in a research and development team – the aforementioned Advanced Development Group.

We develop technologies that are used in what we call “immersive

entertainment”. This includes platforms like virtual reality, augmented reality and also theme park experiences, which are all really exciting. A lot of the projects we work on haven’t been done before so we spend a lot of time figuring out how to make beautiful, cinematic experiences on various custom hardware platforms.

Where do you go to unwind?

San Francisco has an amazing food and coffee scene so social activities tend to revolve around those. There’s a little park in Hayes Valley, close to where I live, that’s great to visit and I’ll get a coffee from Ritual Coffee or Blue Bottle cafés. Food-wise, Salumeria in the Mission is amazing for lunch while Heirloom Café and Petit Crenn are fantastic dinner options. If we’re going for drinks, cocktails at Trick Dog in the Mission, or The Interval at Long Now in Fort Mason are frequented pretty often. If wine is preferred, Birba and Fig & Thistle in Hayes Valley are great. We do a lot of film screenings at work but I still love getting to The Alamo Drafthouse Cinema in the Mission district or AMC Kabuki 8, a cinema in Japantown, for film screenings.

Biggest adjustments moving from Ireland to California?

The time difference. Having the eight-hour time delay tends to mean that people are winding down their day just as mine is starting, so it’s usually an early morning Facetime call to catch up with friends and family back in Ireland and the UK. Working on the Irish VFX + Animation Summit and Immersive Stories at the Dublin International Film Festival were difficult extracurricular projects due to the time difference between Dublin and San Francisco. That said, they were also among the most personally rewarding projects, because I had the chance to meet and become friends with some incredible people.

First port of call back in Ireland?

We’ve a pretty solid routine in place. I’ll meet mum and dad off the flight in Dublin airport. We then drop in to see my sister and her family in Sandyford before getting on the road to Limerick.

There, we go to Copper & Spice in Annacotty for a curry and have a pint next door in The Black Swan. Regardless if it’s a Christmas trip or a summer break, that’s become a pretty consistent

series of events. When in Dublin, I love getting the Luas into St Stephen’s Green and doing the same commute as when I was at university. I’d grab a coffee from Kaph on Drury Street, go for a wander and finish with a cheese toastie and a pint in Grogan’s.

Career highlights to date? Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows (p1) was special because I love the Potter books. Alfonso Cuarón’s Gravity in 2013 was a huge accomplishment because no one had shot a film like that before.

For it to go on and win Best Visual Effects and Best Cinematography in the 2014 Oscars meant a great deal. More recently, Alejandro González Iñárritu’s CARNE y ARENA, which is a conceptual virtual reality installation produced by Legendary Entertainment and developed

by ILMxLAB, is based on true accounts from Central American and Mexican refugees. It’s a really visceral and upsetting experience but timely and relevant. Iñárritu won a special Oscar – the first given since Toy Story in 1995 – for this work and it was the first virtual reality experience to be included at the Cannes Film Festival in 2017.

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FILM

Big Blue Dreams

COMEDY

CAPITAL LAUGHS

As Galway readies to don the cap of European Capital of Culture in 2020, it claims the crown of Ireland’s comedy capital as this year’s Vodafone Comedy Carnival kicks off in 18 venues with more than 100 class acts, including Dylan Moran, Sean Lock, Milton Jones, Al Murray (aka The Pub Landlord) and Rhys Darby (aka Murray from Flight of the Conchords).

Runs October 23-29. vodafonecomedycarnival.com

High Style Elevate your look with Style Summit in a new panoramic rooftop space atop Dublin’s iconic Brown Thomas store, featuring masterclasses and talks by global experts such as Sali Hughes and Vogue’s Sarah Harris. brownthomas.com

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RONALD TRAEGER, TWIGGY 1966 © TESSA TRAEGER

© TOUCHED BY THE OCEAN

Meet Steve, the Kiwi dreamer who built a 44ft yacht in his London back yard for his 24,000km voyage home.

Or Karlis and Gints, two pals with zero rowing experience but a grand plan to row cross-Atlantic from Namibia to Brazil. If you’d love to take on treacherous oceans, ride the world’s biggest waves or explore spectacular depths – all from the comfort of a cinema seat – catch the Ocean Film Fest’s current UK tour until October 24. oceanfilmfestival.co.uk

ART

Rebel Rebel

At Hamburg’s Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe (MKG), the story of 4,000 years of human creativity is told through arts and crafts collected from various cultural regions and eras. With 68. Pop and Protest, it spotlights the cultural revolution of the late 1960s, when avant-garde expression was embraced as non-violent protest, including the “modern period room” of Spiegel Canteen, created in 1969 by Pop Art icon Verner Panton. From October 18 to March 17. mkg-hamburg.de

Pictured above at City Gate Mahon, are from left to right: Michael Jackson, Managing Partner, Claire Scannell, Professional Support Lawyer Financial Institutions, Grainne Callanan, Senior Associate Financial Institutions Group, Eve O’Toole, Solicitor International Business Group.

Pictured L – R above at City Gate, Mahon, Cork: Managing Partner Michael Jackson with Matheson Cork office lawyers Claire Scannell, Gráinne Callanan and Eve O’Toole. Gráinne Callanan takes up the role of Matheson Cork Office Lead.

Matheson Opens Cork Office With offices in Dublin, London, New York, Palo Alto and San Francisco, Matheson is pleased to announce the opening of its new office in Cork.

Matheson’s Cork office will allow us to further support the legal needs of our domestic and multinational Cork and wider Munsterbased clients where they are located.

Matheson. The law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland.

To find out more, contact grainne.callanan@matheson.com, michael.jackson@matheson.com or your usual Matheson contact.

Ireland Transfer Pricing Firm of the Year International Tax Review 2018 Winner, Eight Deals of the Year in M&A, Equity Capital Markets, Debt Capital Markets, Financial Services, Loans and Financing Finance Dublin Awards 2018 Ireland M&A Legal Adviser of the Year Mergermarket European M&A Awards 2017 Ranked Ireland’s Most Innovative Law Firm Financial Times Innovative Lawyers Report 2017 Number One Ranked Irish Funds Law Practice acting for 29% of Irish Domiciled Investment Funds by AUM Monterey Insight Ireland Fund Survey 2017

www.matheson.com

Check in

LUNCH

LYLE’S LONDON

A day off for me mostly consists of searching for and eating delicious food. Lyle’s, by chef James Lowe, hits the nail on the head every time.

The menu changes with the seasons and typically comprises 12 to 15 dishes, but you have to start with their bread, made in-house daily.

The oysters with apple granita and sorrel blew me away, so fresh and clean, and the desserts are superb, always leaving me wanting more. See if you can resist ordering everything – I never can. lyleslondon.com

@EATBCN

FOOD FLIGHT

DINNER

GRESCA BAR BARCELONA

On a recent trip to Barcelona I stumbled across this wonderful place in the Eixample district. Gresca has two parts: fine dining and a more relaxed tapas bar. The wine list is extensive, featuring all natural wines and the menu is made up of small sharing plates, which I love. Don’t miss out on the bikini of Iberian pork loin with comté cheese … Think of the greatest toasted cheese sandwich you will ever have: deliciously gooey, golden, crisp and light as a feather. Amazing.

BREAKFAST

BROTHER HUBBARD DUBLIN

Whenever I get back to Dublin for a couple of days, breakfast at Brother Hubbard – nicely tucked away on Capel Street – is always on the cards. I fell in love with it from my first visit. There is so much to like: vivid colours as you step in the door, Middle Eastern aromas coming from the kitchen, freshly baked pastries on the counter, coffee on the shelves, Wall & Keogh loose leaf teas … The knockout dish for me is the Turkish eggs menemen; lightly scrambled eggs, Turkish spices, roast peppers, whipped feta, kalamata olives, and a chilli, red onion and mixed herb salsa on toast. brotherhubbard.ie

Dubliner Kevin Burke (29) began his career at Ireland’s only two Michelin-starred restaurant, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud. His culinary journey then took him to London and Jason Atherton’s acclaimed Pollen Street Social. He later joined chef Jun Tanaka at The Ninth and within a year they had gained a Michelin star. This October 22-23, Kevin shares his passion for seasonal produce and vibrant, honest flavours at the Food on the Edge symposium in Galway city. foodontheedge.ie DRINKS

BECKETTS KOPF BERLIN

A friend of mine told me about this place called Becketts Kopf in Prenzlauer Berg. So here was I, thinking “hmm, another Irish bar …” but, wow, was I wrong. Becketts is a sleeklooking, speakeasy-style cocktail bar. There is no name on the front, just a portrait of its playwright namesake, Samuel Beckett, in the window – and of course you have to ring a bell to get in. Once you’re in, you will see luxurious leather chairs and hear cool jazz playing in the background. Even the menu is cool: it’s hidden inside old, paperback Beckett novels. As for the cocktails, the Aviation was a stand out for me – a classic done extremely well. becketts-kopf.de

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JOIN THE SCOTS

A swell week of sipping, sampling and socialising is on the cards as mixers and tipplers raise a jaunty glass this October 15-21 to Edinburgh Cocktail Week. Hosted in more than 80 bars across Auld Reekie, the event will also encompass a Cocktail Village at Festival Square, a secret masterclass hub and bar on Queen Street, and a week-long programme of high-spirited events and parties. edinburghcocktailweek.co.uk

5 MEGA MIXERS

THE WHISTLE STOP BARBER SHOP

Be in the pink with your drink via the addition of a top-notch Irish bevvy booster.

GRUB’S UP Eoin Higgins savours food and drink innovations.

SUPPER'S UP

Cool Lisbon travel innovators Silent Living have recently added a gastronomic offering to their hip accommodation roster.

Ceia is a reservations-only dining experience helmed by the fizzingly-talented chef, Pedro Pena Bastos. If you’re lucky enough to nab one of the 14 seats available, Ceia (the Portuguese word for supper) is something to savour. silentliving.pt

TOASTING TIMES If you don’t make it to Bray,

Co Wicklow (November 2-4) for the gooey and gorgeous Harbour Bar Toastie Festival (theharbourbar.ie), wrap your gnashers around this tantalising iteration, left, at newcomer Loose Canon Cheese & Wine (loosecanon.ie). Located in Dublin’s landmark George’s Street Arcade, the no-seats eatery also serves artisan cheese and Irish charcuterie by the plate as well as hosting a thoughtful selection of natural wines, available by the glass or the bottle.

MENU MASTERCLASS: BISQUE DRIVE

THE PLACE Dax, Dublin 2, 01 676 1494; dax.ie. THE DISH Iona Farm courgette flower stuffed with Dundalk Bay lobster, lemon and juniper bisque, €21. THE DRINK Tursan 2016 “Carpe Diem” Domaine Cazalet, €10.

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A benificent boon to a wellmade, and curated, G&T, Ciara’s Pantry Cucumber Syrup, hailing from Gorey, Co Wexford, also marries vodka, and Pimms, exceedingly amicably. ciaraspantry.com

The award-winning “Special Recipe No. 9” Richmount Elderflower Cordial is made from handpicked, sweetly fragrant elderflowers and goes terrifically well with tart tipples and white or pink wines. richmountcordials.ie A surprisingly popular entrant in the taste test ranks, Jameson Wild Seaweed Bitters uses wild Irish dillisk seaweed to harmoniously exalt cocktails and, interestingly, red ales. Try it. jamesonwhiskey.com With content as delectable as its dressy packaging, Spiced Turmeric Elixir, from boutique Connemara-based drinks alchemists America Village Apothecary, is a memorably spikey foil that adds interest in spades to any glass. americavillage.com The complex flavour profile of Chocolate Factory, from Dublin city bitters merchants Off the Cuffe, counts the rumthrilling notes of cacao, marshmallow root and yarrow among its elevating elements. offthecuffe.info

A place in Europe Guiding your business through Brexit A foothold in Ireland offers a pro-business environment and a continued presence in Europe.

Eversheds Sutherland offers you legal excellence worldwide, across 66 offices in 32 jurisdictions. In Ireland, with expert teams in Dublin and Belfast, our geographical presence allows us to understand business needs and risks across the island of Ireland.

As the EU–UK Trade Agreement negotiations unfold, you can depend on us to respond quickly to the developments.

Our Brexit Group is here to help your business be aware of the opportunities, while avoiding any pitfalls, that arise.

For further information, contact: Alan Murphy Managing Partner +353 1 6644 289 alanmurphy@eversheds-sutherland.ie Sean Ryan Chair, Brexit Group +353 1 6644 207 seanryan@eversheds-sutherland.ie

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SPACE INVADERS

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ANGIE McMONIGAL/COURTESY CAF

he popularity of property and home interiors shows on television proves just how much we love getting an inside look at how other people live but Open House, the annual architectural extravaganza, goes so much further.

The weekend-long festival opens the doors of homes, but also all manner of spaces, from water treatment plants (far more fascinating than you might think), to industrial sites, to historic architectural landmarks.

Now in its 13th year, Open House Dublin (openhousedublin. com) has the theme “Tomorrow’s Past: Discover our Future Heritage” and, with more than 33,000 visits anticipated during the three-day event this October 12-14, there are a lot of discoveries to be found.

Excitingly, organisers have come up with a building from every single decade, from 1700 up to the present day. So, from 9/9a Aungier Street (1664) and Marsh’s Library (1703); to the Royal College of Surgeons (2017), and the new Trinity College Innovation Hub (2018), you can see how we lived and worked, and then imagine how we might be living and working in the years to come.

Some of the buildings are richly layered. The new Garda Headquarters at Kevin Street (2017) incorporates some of the old city wall, and beside that is the old Palace of St Sepulchre, which was the official residence of the

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archbishops of Dublin, and the first Dublin Metropolitan Police HQ, more than 200 years ago. Cara is, of course, fascinated by the old Terminal Building at Dublin Airport.

Design began in 1936, and it’s considered to be Ireland’s most important pre-war, International Style building. Everything about it oozes the glamour of the golden age of travel.

Other hot favourites at OHD are the homes, where you can steal style tips from people’s own architectural adventures, such as David Leech’s conservatory room in Killester, where colour, line and texture all add to the atmosphere.

There are more than 100 buildings participating and all visits are free; some are ticketed, some have a ticket lottery system.

On the other side of the country, Open House Limerick (openhouselimerick.ie) is in its seventh year and runs from October 19-21. They’re celebrating with an “Architecture is Community” theme, looking at how we come together to use space. Enjoy a launch party at the Gardens International Office (the former

HUFTON=CROW

Form an orderly queue, says Gemma Tipton, as Ireland throws open its doors for Open House this October.

The Royal College of Surgeons will open up its doors to the public for Open House Dublin this October.

GPO), plus a firm favourite tour of Limerick’s Docklands. Keeping the nautical theme, check out a tour of the Ilen, Ireland’s last wooden sailing ship, recently rebuilt. The Free Market team, who have just been exhibiting at the Venice Architecture Biennale, will also be home to give a talk.

During the same dates, Open House Belfast (openhousebelfast.org) is in its fourth year. The inspiring programme includes the artists’ work spaces at Belfast Open Studios and the Vault Artist Studios, the Raidió Fáilte offices at the bottom of the Falls Road, the Harland & Wolff Dry Dock, plus Belfast’s second tallest building: Fanum House.

ILLINOIS REPUTE Open House is a worldwide phenomenon and, as Chicago is a city stuffed full of extraordinary buildings, Open House Chicago is a must for any architecture junkie. Taking place over October 13-14, there are 250 buildings to choose from – ranging from the historic to the ultra-ultra modern. It’s organised by the Chicago Architecture Center, which

runs the amazing Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise – 90 minutes of laidback, building bliss (architecture.org). At this year’s OH, they’re revealing the southside neighbourhoods of Beverly and Morgan Park: expect charming residential projects, winding streets and, towering over it all, the iconic Givins’ Irish Castle. openhousechicago.org

DISCOVER ASHFORD CASTLE THIS WINTER Celebrating 800 Years of History and Hospitality

Your royal adventure begins when you enter through the grand stone gates of our remarkable 800-year-old castle. Discover exquisite interiors, delicious cuisine, passionate service and a wealth of estate activities.

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HOMEMADE

BEAUTIFUL NEW THINGS FOR A BEAUTIFUL NEW SEASON, FROM COSY SCARVES TO INVESTMENT FURNITURE.

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1. DYNAMIC DESIGN

It is no surprise that Dublin jeweller Emer Roberts has an MFA in sculpture: her Art Deco inspired rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings are a masterclass in form, shape and space. From €250 at emerroberts.com.

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2. TIDE & SEEK

Resin, alabaster and ink are among Jenny McConnell’s go-to materials, their multiple layers creating the illusion of sound and movement as seen and heard in nature.

Price on request at jennymcconnell design.com.

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3. MARINE CORP

Seaweed oil and botanicals have been harvested and extracted by Neuú Men for their skin-plumping and antibacterial qualities. The sevenpiece range includes moisturiser and shaving balm. From €21 at neuu.com.

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4. KNIT WIT

A third generation knitter, textile ace Bernie Murphy looks to the patchwork landscapes of Buncrana, Donegal for inspiration.

The results? Soft, sculptural scarves.

Pleated pashminas from €149 at berniemurphy.com.

5. THROWN SHADE

Cillian Ó Súilleabháin’s Transformer table is a winning frisson of organic material and precision engineering, that’s as exquisite as it is functional.

Price on request at cosfurniture. squarespace.com.

6. BRIGHT SPARK

Working out of his Copper Fish Studio in Wicklow, Eoin Shanley uses salvaged (and “storm fallen”) wood and vintage-style fittings to reinvigorate discarded materials into beautiful lamps. From €150 at copperfish.ie.

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican strolls vicariously around Amsterdam and high-fives this season’s best new reads and readings.

HEESTERVELD, BIJLMER, PHOTO © PIE AERTS

STREETS OF AMSTERDAM BY MENDO (teNeues, €50) Mendo is an Amsterdam bookstore that also creates stunning visual books.

Having done the streets of New York, London and Paris, it now turns to its home city, asking 40 photographers to capture Amsterdam in all its light and colour and with brief essays in Dutch, English and French. Here is the panoramic and the intimate; the familiar (gablefronted redbrick, canals, train stations, red-tiled roofs) and the unexpected (greenery, ice, murals, basketball) – and not a spliff in sight.

LIVE THE ODYSSEY

SHORTS SWEET HOME by Wendy Erskine (The Stinging Fly, pbk & limited hbk) A new author from cult Dublin publishers The Stinging Fly is always an event. This debut collection of short stories is mostly set in Belfast, where Erskine lives, and takes a sharp, laconic look at lives of people frequently on the margins – underachievers, criminals, wrongfully accused – with children being a source of anxiety and danger.

MEMOIR TRULY FRANK: A DUBLIN MEMOIR by Frank McDonald (Penguin Ireland, hbk, released October 25) The former environment editor of the Irish Times spent decades campaigning to save Dublin’s architectural heritage. In this witty and revealing memoir, he tells the public tale of his advocacy, including battles with politicians and property developers, and the private tale of growing up gay in Ireland when homosexuality was hidden.

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SOPHIA SPRING

BIOGRAPHY OSCAR: A LIFE by Matthew Sturgis (Apollo, hbk & Kindle) It’s been a Wilde year (when is it not?) with Rupert Everett’s film The Happy Prince and Michèle Mendelssohn’s revelatory Making Oscar Wilde on the wordsmith’s time in the US. Now comes Matthew Sturgis, author and biographer of those other late Victorians, Aubrey Beardsley and Walter Sickert, with the first major biography in 30 years.

Holding On National treasure Graham Norton will be touring Ireland and the UK in October with his second novel, A Keeper, about dark secrets in an Irish family.

If you don’t get him at the Wimbledon Book Festival or Manchester Literature Festival on October 5 and 7 respectively, he’ll be in Dublin in The Helix on October 13, talking to RTÉ broadcaster Rick O’Shea, and at the Cork Opera House the following day.

Over the course of 2.5 hours in London’s Southbank Centre on October 21 you can hear a live reading of Homer’s Odyssey by a cast of authors and actors, preceded by a panel discussion with Madeline Miller and led by Mary Beard, below. This celebrates a recent new translation of the epic tale by Emily Wilson and the publication this year of Miller’s Circe, her reinterpretation of the witch who turns Odysseus’ men into pigs. This reading is the centrepiece of the London Literature Festival, which will also feature authors including Mohsin Hamid and Esi Edugyan reflecting on modern-day journeys and homecomings. southbankcentre.co.uk

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BLACK OUT

Catherine Murphy gazes at some of the world’s most intriguing Dark Sky Reserves.

The plains of Languedoc in southeastern France stretch out to the Mediterranean and, above them, dark skies hold great promise for astro fans. This region’s difficult past, including religious persecution, has kept development at bay and light pollution low.

This year, the sparsely populated Department of Lozère/Gard was designated an International Dark Sky Reserve. darksky.org

GERMANY WESTHAVELLAND NATURE PARK

To be so close to the bright lights of Berlin (the city is just 70 kilometres away) and still belong to “Dunkel Deutschland” (Dark Germany) is what makes the

Sternenpark Westhavelland dark sky reserve so special. The historic Brandenburg area is famous for its stunning palaces and gardens but now also hosts an annual star party for astro tourists who are as conscious of East Germany’s dark past as they are of the night skies. havelland-tourismus.de

IRELAND KERRY INTERNATIONAL DARK SKY RESERVE

Experience the romance of venturing out from the Royal Hotel on Valentia Island to gaze at star clusters and nebulae on the night of a new moon. Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve is one of only three Gold Tier reserves on the planet, with astronomical sights on a par with those that can be seen from the Grand Canyon

and the African Savannah. The reserve has a core zone stretching from Portmagee to Caherdaniel, Valentia and The Glen – with the Skelligs and the Ring of Kerry as its backdrop. kerrydarksky.com

SPAIN PARC ASTRONÒMIC MONTSEC

On the border between Catalunya and Aragon, nestled between the gorges of Mont-rebei and Terradets, this area of great unspoilt beauty has become a UNESCO Starlight Tourism destination. The clear skies in Catalunya are down to a microclimate and sparsely populated villages scattered through a valley best known for paragliding, hiking and kayaking. The dark skies are watched carefully from

a research observatory while the Centre d’Observació de l’Univers is a must-visit for families. parcastronomic.cat

USA JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK

Visitors drawn to the iconic Joshua tree and desert landscape of this southern California national park also now come for the Silver Tier designated dark sky park.

A 2.5-hour drive from LA, these dark skies are perfect for witnessing Perseid meteor showers, solar eclipses and enjoying the annual Night Sky Festival (November 9-10; nps.gov/ jotr). Park and hike to the east side of the park for the darkest skies; take an astrophotography workshop or just set up camp and gaze. joshuatree.guide

ILLUSTRATION BY TARA O’BRIEN

FRANCE CEVENNES NATIONAL PARK

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First overseas holiday? My first time on a plane was to visit London when I was 19. I’d heard about a play called Stones in his Pockets by Marie Jones, which was taking the West End by storm and I just had to see it. I was blown away. I spent the week walking around London mesmerised by this huge city and being a complete tourist. The palace, the tower, the dungeons, Sherlock Holmes and the Jack the Ripper tours … you name it I did it.

Favourite city you’ve visited? I had an amazing time in Chicago recently, touring a show. It was my first time there. The architecture is incredible and I spent most nights listening to ridiculously brilliant blues bands in various blues bars. I’d love to go back and explore it more.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Actor Aaron Monaghan is a familiar face on Irish stage and screen, his CV including roles in Hollywood films (Assassin’s Creed, The Foreigner), critically acclaimed indies (71, Patrick’s Day, Maze) and TV (RTÉ’s Striking Out). Fresh from the Edinburgh Festival, where he performed in Waiting for Godot, Monaghan is treading the boards as Richard III in a new DruidShakespeare production (druid.ie) at Dublin’s Abbey Theatre, October 3-27.

Three must-pack items? Whatever book I’m reading; a notebook for whatever show I’m working on and an iPad with a lot of movies downloaded.

Country that you would love to visit? I’m fascinated about the idea of exploring Greece and seeing the islands and architectural ruins, where all those famous myths and legends began. I’m pretty sure the sun and the food would also make it worthwhile.

Favourite hotel you’ve stayed in? I’ve a soft spot for the Parker New York as it’s where I stayed the first time I visited NYC and I stay there most times. The views over Central Park are fantastic and it has some sweet touches like Tom & Jerry cartoons in the lifts and the most amazing and secret burger bar in the lobby.

Milkshakes and cheeseburgers to die for.

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Favourite theatre to perform in? Dublin’s Abbey Theatre is always close to my heart. I spent two years there when I first came out of college and learned more in that time there than I could ever have wished. Druid’s theatre, the Mick Lally Theatre in Galway, feels like home too. There is a magic in that room and so many memories of all the amazing work I’ve gotten to be part of.

Favourite childhood holiday memories? I never went far as a kid as I loved spending the summer holidays on the neighbouring farms. All the locals used to chip in and help the farmers with their work, herding cattle and shearing sheep. It was always such a thrill as a kid, driving tractors and riding round on top of trailers packed high with bales of hay. It was as wild as it got for a kid in Cavan!

What is your road most travelled? The road home to Cavan, to see my family. I love walking up the little country road at this time of year, kicking through the autumn leaves.

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Discover graduates who think bigger and go further.

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5 GOOD REASONS ...

… to mosey in Montréal. Eoin Higgins channels his inner flâneur.

FESTIVAL FIT The most famous expression of Montréalers’ zest for a rocking good party is the annual hepcat shindig, the Montréal International Jazz Festival (next up June 27-July 6, 2019; montrealjazzfest. com) but locals don’t stop at celebrating musical abstraction and syncopation.

All year round, the Quartier des Spectacles – the city’s dedicated arts and entertainment district – plays host to several multi-day arts, literature, music and cultural festivals.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MONTRÉAL from August 5, 2019.

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MORE THAN MAPLE North America’s largest French-speaking city is not, thankfully, an exclusively Francophile-feasting destination. And while fine Gallic grub is indeed done very well in the city, the

metropolis pulls further influence from its emigrant population as well as from its surrounding continent.

The result is an edible metropolitan mélange with plenty to offer the curious chow-hound, from local poutine shops to a food truck scene that is creatively inspiring.

THE SUBTERRANEANS Not, in the truest sense, an underground city but a notable lower-level novelty nonetheless.

Montréal’s network of underground stairways and walkways mean that getting around in wintertime is a cinch. Better known as RÉSO, the network consists of more than 30 kilometres of underground connections to shopping malls, schools, metro stations and pretty much any worthy destination in the downtown area.

BREWS BROTHERS Awash with ale, porter, pilsner and lager connoisseurs, the city is home to a greater-thannormal concentration of passionate micro-brewers and brew publicans. As a result, visitors are spoiled for choice when it comes to going for a brewski.

“Brasserie artisinale” Dieu du Ciel, in Mile End, is one such destination: home to a passion for brewing that verges on zealous and a selection of beer that is undoubtedly delicious. dieuduciel.com

ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN

THE NAME OF THE GAME Consisting of three peaks, the city’s namesake, Mount Royal, is also home to Mount Royal Park, one of the city’s best-loved green spaces.

Designed by celebrated landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, who also designed New York’s Central Park, the area is where locals come to be active as much as relax, with boating, guided discovery walks, concerts and exhibitions on offer year-round. lemontroyal. qc.ca

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THE MUST-VISIT The old town on “Le Rocher” (the rock) is unmissable.

Lose yourself in the rainbow streets leading to the Prince’s Palace. Here you will find the stunning Oceanographic Museum (great for kids), the Princess Grace Irish Library (pgil.mc) – founded in honour of her Irish ancestry – and Monaco Cathedral, the Princess’ final resting place. visitmonaco.com

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

2018 DECCA RECORDS / UNIVERSAL MUSIC

Rebecca McVeigh luxuriates in the hotspots of Monte-Carlo.

P WILLIAMSON

THE EVENT Monaco has long been a proud supporter of the arts. The principality has its own Philharmonic Orchestra, ballet, opera, art and jazz festivals – with Gregory Porter, above, launching this year’s edition of the Monte-Carlo Jazz Festival on November 13. The festival runs until December 2 so seek out an unforgettable performance – from Dita Von Teese to Bobby McFerrin – in the opulent Salle Garnier, the jewel in the crown of the famous Casino. montecarlolive.com

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MORE ABOUT REBECCA Rebecca McVeigh is a TV producer, writer and musician from Co Down. Last year she swapped London for the French Riviera and, while working with Style Lab luxury communications in Monaco, she got to know the principality’s hottest spots.

ALINE GERARD

MONACO

THE GREAT OUTDOORS Monaco’s true treasure is “la grande bleue”, the dazzling azure waters of the Mediterranean. Hire a paddleboard from neighbouring Cap d’Ail or Eze-Sur-Mer to explore the coastline. If yachts are more your style, join the jet set aboard a Riva available for charter exclusively from Monaco Boat Service.

(8 Quai Antoine 1er, +377 93 105 333; riva-mbs.com)

THE SHOPPING Monaco may only cover two-square kilometres but packs in all the designer shops you might expect. If you’re looking for a more local experience, Condamine Market, on Place d’Armes, offers fresh, regional produce that won’t break the bank. Flowers, fruit and Provencal herbs fragrance the air and an indoor area houses butchers, fishmongers and wine specialists.

THE EATS Rampoldi is something of an icon. Mere steps away from the Casino, the restaurant has been welcoming Hollywood legends and Monegasque locals since 1946. Exciting young Italian chef Antonio Salvatore has brought renewed gastronomic innovation to the menu. (3 Avenue des Spéluges, +377 93 307 065; rampoldi.mc)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NICE daily until the end of October.

The Collection

By Amy Huberman

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INTERVIEW

ACING the SPOTLIGHT Tipperary actor Kerry Condon may not (yet) be a household name – but you know her face on screen. She has stealthily infiltrated Hollywood (Three Billboards, Marvel blockbusters, Better Call Saul), while keeping her two feet firmly on the ground. When she’s not riding her beloved horses, that is.

WORDS ROSS McDONAGH PHOTOGRAPHS RYAN PFLUGER

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he has worked opposite the biggest names in the business (Hoffman, Mirren, Penn). She has starred in some of AMC and HBO’s biggest shows (The Walking Dead, Better Call Saul, Rome). She was in one of last year’s biggest Oscar darlings (Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri). She has appeared in four Marvel movies (Age of Ultron, Civil War, Spider-Man Homecoming, Infinity War).

She’s about to play a lead in the Irish answer to Sex and the City. And you probably wouldn’t notice her if she passed you on the street.

For, you see, there are actors who crave the spotlight and there are actors whom the spotlight craves. Kerry Condon is the latter. A rare sighting at Hollywood events, she doesn’t exist on social media. She didn’t even bother sitting through this year’s Academy Awards ceremony.

“We kind of bailed halfway through the night and came back to my house and had pizza and let

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my dog out to go to the loo,” she recalls. “It’s like going to a wedding ... but with a load of famous people everywhere,” she told her date – her brother, who was visiting from Ireland. “We did go back out though,” she smiles. However, the after-parties, she tells me, can get “kind of grotesque. There are those people who are like ‘who’s really important?

Who do I need to talk to?’ and they work it. I end up talking to catering.”

If California is so meh, what’s keeping her here? “My horses.” At the very mention, she visibly transforms in front of me. Her eyes light up, her smile doubles and her shoulders almost meet. This is a woman in love. She keeps two in an equestrian centre near LA half the year and out to pasture in Seattle for the summer. Most of her friends there are “horse people”, who would rather talk fly spray than what film she’s working on. Ultimately, Kerry’s goal in life is to open an animal sanctuary; she knows acting is not her life’s purpose. She loves

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INTERVIEW

doing it though, and is very grateful for the financial security it gives her to pursue other such things.

Age 35, her CV to date is fascinatingly diverse. She’s done three plays and Three Billboards with Martin McDonagh. “I’ve known him since I was 17; we hang out all the time. He’s a pal,” she says. In Billboards, she played a small but memorable role as Pamela, who worked for the advertising company.

Her four-foot-thick Tipperary accent was nowhere to be heard. “I still had to get the role fair and square!” she insists. “He wouldn’t be handing me anthin’ for nothin’.”

In Rome, aged 22, she played Octavia of the Julii, sister of Emperor Augustus. A precursor to Game of Thrones, the amount of sex, nudity and violence made Westeros look like Sesame Street. “I was naked every single episode,” she says. “It

“You need to figure out where you fit into the story, not where Kerry can roll up and steal a scene.”

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was really great for me to learn early on that your body is not really yours, and your own insecurities are not really necessary on the set, you’ve got to park them.”

She can laugh now when producers tiptoe around the issue of sex scenes, like telling her she can wear a bra. “That’s not a sex scene!”

In the Marvel universe, she voiced FRIDAY, the AI interface of Tony Stark’s Iron Man armour.

The guy she replaced – JARVIS, played by Paul Bettany – became one of the franchise’s most powerful characters, Vision. Question is, could FRIDAY have any grand plot arcs in her future? “I only know that I’m signed on for Infinity War Part 2,” she admits. She also doesn’t know what the acronym FRIDAY stands for (neither does the internet, FYI), and reveals she had to audition in several accents, but thankfully they preferred her Irish one. She also lays claim to ad-libbing the infamous “targeting system’s knackered, boss!” line.

Another regular gig is playing Stacey, the daughter-in-law of former cop-turned cleaner/hitman Mike Ehrmantraut, in Better Call Saul. “I love doing that, that’s been four years now, but only two or three episodes per season,” she says of the Breaking Bad spin-off. “That was another skill to learn, when you come in and out of a show.

Learning that you’re not really that important, that you’re facilitating another person’s storyline. You need to figure out where you fit into the story, not where Kerry can roll up and steal a scene.

“And it’s a hard skill because sometimes I feel like I’m doing ... nothing. But the less I ‘do’, the more natural it is – the more you believe the whole world that it’s in.

You have to drop the ego.”

We’ll soon see more of Kerry on the small-screen as she plays a lead in Sharon Horgan’s upcoming sixpart comedy drama, Women on the Verge. Set in Dublin, the six-parter follows three career-driven friends whose lives have not panned out as they’d hoped. “My character is in her mid-30s, she’s not married, no kids, still boozing too much, lonely,

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having an affair with a married man, her job is kind of shit and she’s not that great at it. She’s basically lost.”

Eileen Walsh’s character has broken up with a boyfriend she’s iffy about, tries internet dating – “and we all know what fresh hell that is” – before going back to the first guy. Nina Sosanya’s character is a divorcee whose ex-husband has main custody of their kid.

Horgan plays a therapist. Kerry insists it’s more realistic than Sex and the City: they all live in apartments they can actually afford and they actually re-wear outfits.

“It’s very honest and I think it’s very necessary too. There’s definitely a stigma that at a certain age you have to be settling down,” she says.

“I was at a party in Ireland a couple of years ago and it was like Pride and Prejudice. The bachelors came in from the country with their loads of money and could drink until the cows came home, and every woman 42 |

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was standing around with a sense of, like, ‘will I be lucky enough to end up with one of these?’” She adds: “But I loved working at home and I loved doing it in my own accent.”

Kerry landed the role having impressed Horgan 13 years earlier, in a Dennis Kelly play. Horgan wrote her a letter telling her as much, that she’d kept an eye on her work ever since. “Talk about generosity of spirit. And she recognised that I was working.

Only somebody that’s working could see that, that you’re hustling.

You’re not letting everyone else know you’re doing it; you’re just doing it.

“It meant so much to me,” she says. “I was just trying to impress her on those first few days.

Hopefully I did her proud.”

Of that we have no doubt.

Women on the Verge airs on RTÉ2 and W from October 11.

THE LIKES OF KERRY LA EATS & DRINKS “Square One Dining

(squareonedining.com) in Little Armenia. It’s only open until 3pm and they have yummy breakfast and lunch, yummy pancakes. And I love Ye Rustic Inn (yerusticinn.com) – it’s very American, a kind of dive bar. It’s fun.”

THE LA LANDMARK “My favourite

has to be Rose Bowl Aquatics Center (rosebowlaquatics.org). Or any outdoor swimming pool. I love swimming and you see so many cute families it makes you want to cry. I like to read my book by the pool, it makes me feel like I’m on my holidays.”

THE HOMESICK HOTSPOT “Anywhere

along the Irish coast I feel is kind of spiritual.

I always feel like there are souls floating around … the waves travelled all the way across the ocean and they haven’t yet met anyone or anything, and they’re crashing …”

COVER: PRINTED TOP BY ISABEL MARANT; PRINTED SKIRT BY TIBI; BLACK PUMPS BY STEVE MADDEN. OPENING SPREAD AND THIS PAGE: GREEN JACQUARD SUIT BY SANDRO. PREVIOUS PAGE: CREAM FLORAL DRESS BY GANNI. STYLED BY ASHLEY ZOHAR, HAIR BY SYDNEY VALENTINE, MAKEUP BY MELISSA WALSH. CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK SUNSET TOWER, WEST HOLLYWOOD. SUNSETTOWERHOTEL.COM

INTERVIEW

A Tribute to Hubert de Givenchy

Featuring one of the greatest private collections of original Audrey Hepburn Couture in existence.

On view now Admission from €5. Adult €7.

Pre-book your tickets now at www.newbridgesilverware.com/tickets or purchase in-store

THE MUSEUM OF STYLE ICONS at Newbridge Silverware, Newbridge, Co. Kildare, I re l a n d .

VIS ITO R C E N T RE | FAC TO RY TO URS | MUSEUM OF STY L E I CON S | C A F É C A R L E TON Ope n 7 days. Free parking. T: 353 ( 0 ) 4 5 4 3 1 3 01 . www.newbridgesilverware.com

SIBLING

SUCCE SSE S Family businesses aren’t always passed down from parents.

There’s a sizeable crop of siblings who are harmonising their strengths rather than competing with one another for pole position. We meet some of the key players.

WORDS THOMAS BREATHNACH PHOTOGRAPHS JOHNNY SAVAGE

M

ost siblings are happy to keep their rivalry to the Monopoly board and wouldn’t ever think of letting it play out in the boardroom, to drive each other on. But as a new age of entrepreneurialism trends through Ireland, it brings with it a wave of brother and sister collaborations.

These teams, however, aren’t the heirs apparent to a family business but rather siblings joining forces to career into an unchartered dream. Often pioneers in their field, likely family traits they share a taste for disruption, a hint of moxie and a dyed-inthe-wool grá for each other and what they do.

There’s strong appeal to a sibling pact: familial trust, sibling synergy and the intuitive shorthand between brothers and

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sisters that can make businesses a success.

But family ties still need to yield to the principles of any harmonious partnership: recognising strengths and weakness, celebrating differences and defining roles.

And, quite critically – simply knowing when to stop talking shop.

Today in Ireland, sibling duos are emerging in businesses ranging from dental, such as Lisa and Vanessa Creaven of Spotlight Whitening, to digital, with the Collison brothers, Patrick and John, behind the billion-dollar Stripe, to the spreading epicurean empire of The Happy Pear twins, Steve and Dave Flynn. Indeed, all across the island sisters – and brothers – are doing it for themselves.

THE SPOKESPERSONS

AILBHE & IZZY KEANE IZZY WHEELS “If you can’t stand up, stand out!”

That’s the tagline of Izzy Wheels, the sister-led company transforming medical device norms through fashion and self-expression. Behind the brand are company ambassador Izzy Keane, who was born with spina bifida, and founder and creative director, Ailbhe.

“I’m a graduate of the National College of Art and Design,” explains Ailbhe. “In my final year I designed a range of wheelchairs covers inspired

by Izzy. The project gained viral success so we decided to open an online store.” Today, their “be-spoke” designs have seen them collaborate

with designers including Orla Kiely, sell to more than 35 countries and be named on Forbes’ 30 Under 30 Europe. “Sometimes we really have to take a step back from everything and appreciate all of the amazing things that have happened in our journey,” adds Izzy. Ailbhe on partnering with her sister: “Izzy has been my best friend since she was born and growing up I thought her wheelchair was literally the coolest thing ever. She has the most incredibly positive outlook on life, so we just have so much fun building our brand and working together.” izzywheels.com

PEOPLE | SIBLING SUCCESSES

THE PARK RANGERS

DENIS & PAULINE BYRNE DENIS BYRNE ARCHITECTS & BRADY SHIPMAN MARTIN As siblings, albeit at opposite ends of the family, Denis and Pauline Byrne were always close. Now, via stints in Germany, Spain and China, they’re even closer. “We’re neighbours now,” explains Denis. “Pauline lives, with her partner and two sons, in an apartment above our offices on historic North Great George’s Street. I live next door with my wife and son in a funny old Victorian warehouse building that we converted in the 1990s.” The pair has currently joined forces for the strategic visitor review of Phoenix Park, “one of Dublin’s least-known major assets”, according to Denis.

“It’s essentially a masterplan, working towards the park’s projected growth in visitor numbers towards 2050,” he adds. “DBA are the architects and project leaders, while Pauline’s company, Brady Shipman Martin, where she is a partner, are the planning, urban design and landscape consultants.” Pauline on their collaboration: “Denis brings an enthusiasm and dedication to all aspects of his life and work, which I have always found to be inspiring. That along with our family sense of humour, brings an excitement to the projects we work on.” denisbyrnearchitects.ie

THE SISTER ACT

JUDITH & SUSAN BOYLE TWO SISTERS BREWING Coming from a long line of publicans, tradition played its part for the duo behind Two Sisters Brewing. As did geography. “Being from Kildare, the home of St Brigid, the patron saint of beer, it just made sense to create a brew in her honour!” explains Judith Boyle. Their Brigid’s Ale is unique to the craft beer scene. “We use honey from our father’s hives in our recipe, which technically makes it a braggot [an ancient drink made from malted barley and honey],” she notes. Their success hasn’t come without support: “We’ve been encouraged by some very inspiring women," adds Susan. “In Kildare, we’re lucky to have three amazing Brigidine nuns: Sr Phil, Sr Rita and Sr Mary. They were very encouraging about our ale when it was just an idea. We’ve them to thank for sowing the seed idea for our beer.” Susan on their recipe for sibling success: “Well, Judith is a chemist and I studied drama, so both disciplines have a practical element to them which we share. But she’s logical and detail orientated and I’m creative and see the bigger picture. I just need Judith’s help getting there.” twosistersbrewing.com

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URBAN

GIRL

GRAB YOUR

SWEATER

MADE IN IRELAND

available at

BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS

an Irish Family Business

shop online @ blarney.com

PEOPLE | SIBLING SUCCESSES

THE FINE VINTAGE

KATHY SHERRY & CAROLINE QUINN DIRTY FABULOUS VINTAGE

You know you’re a team when you have your own portmanteau. “Our family often refer to us as Kathaline,” jokes Kathy Sherry. “We’ve that habit of thinking and speaking in one voice.” Together with sister Caroline, she’s the owner of the Dirty Fabulous vintage store on Dublin’s Wicklow Street, “a one-stop-shop for fashion treasures from the 1930s to the 1970s”. Being creatively in sync came early. “When I first sketched our brand logo, Kathy had produced the exact same idea from her notebook. We knew we’d the same vision and it went from there,” says Caroline. Ten years on,

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family as a collective has been a keystone to the store’s success. “We come from a very close family of six and they’ve all supported us and our business in different ways, from helping us with tech problems to designing promotional material,” adds Kathy. On working with family: “What has undoubtedly added to our staying power is each other,” says Caroline. “Kathy and I have the exact same agenda and principles as well as that constant back up. And as family, you know that the other isn’t going anywhere no matter what happens.

We will always be sisters.” dirtyfabulous.com

THE LIFE OF PIE

EUGENE & RONAN GREANEY THE DOUGH BROS

“A family trip to Naples, back in the day” was the driving forza for Ronan and Eugene Greaney, the Galway brothers behind foodtruck-turned-restaurant The Dough Bros. “Seeing pizza being made the ‘proper’ way with the wood-fired oven and the theatre of the Italians tossing the dough was something that stuck with us as kids. We’d never had a pizza like it in Ireland before so we took a chance and gave it a go,” says Eugene. Today, the outfit prides itself on “fun dining over fine dining” with local Irish produce at its

heart. “We’ve been staying with dairy farmers, charcuterie makers, bee farmers all over the country, learning firsthand the quality of food we have on our doorstep, as well as the process and heritage behind it. Knowledge is power,” says Ronan. On brotherly love, he says: “In a non-soppy way we’ve been very close since kids, sharing a room growing up in the family house, to now having a business together. We’ll always have each other’s back, which is a pretty integral trait to have between partners.” thedoughbros.ie

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PEOPLE | SIBLING SUCCESSES

THE PET PROJECT

JAMES & TIMOTHY McELROY (& PUG BERT) HOUSEMYDOG “I guess our users refer to us as the Airbnb for dogs.”

So, says Timothy McElroy of HouseMyDog, an online pet service for dog-sitting and dog-walking. “It all started with our family dog, Holly,” says his brother James. “She didn’t like kennels and it was always difficult to find a reliable sitter when we travelled. We wanted to fix this problem, so we created a trustworthy community of vetted sitters and walkers, where dog owners can book the perfect match for their dog in just a few clicks.” With Ireland becoming increasingly canine conscious, the timing is

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perfect, according to James. “It has come in a climate where there’s a huge growth every year in online pet food and pet services sales – and Ireland is catching up rapidly.

We’ve pet friendly cafés and offices popping up all around the city, which really shows how people’s mindset towards pets is changing.” Timothy on keeping that work/life equilibrium in check: “It’s all about balance. Whether I’m in the Berlin office or James is in London, we always try to find a spot to catch-up with family but leave the business out.” housemydog.com

at the heart of Dublin life.

With its tree-lined avenues and beautiful Victorian red-brick houses, it's hard to believe that the bustling village of Ballsbridge is just a stone's throw from Dublin city centre.

A three-arch stone bridge built in 1791 over the River Dodder marks the entrance to this historic area which hosts numerous embassies and international businesses, a leading conference and events arena, as well as award-winning hotels, cafes, bars and restaurants.

20 minutes by Taxi from Dublin Airport 15 minute stroll to Dublin City Centre V ISIT BA LLS BR I DGE LI V I N G.I E TO S TA RT E X P LO R I N G

DESTINATION | SLIGO

SECRET SLIGO Yeats Country is well-travelled but Co Sligo also offers lesser-spotted nooks and crannies that are at once surprising and eminently beautiful at any time of year.

WORDS YVONNE GORDON PHOTOGRAPHS TRISTAN HUTCHINSON

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DESTINATION | SLIGO

W

alking through the field, I am having one of those “this sort of thing would only happen in Ireland” moments. I am dressed head to toe in a wetsuit, walking past a group of sheep who have stopped grazing to stare intently. Behind me is a Georgian house and ahead, there’s a ruined tower from around 1360 and an ivy-covered ruin of a Knight’s Templar castle that dates back to 1200.

“Good morning,” I say to the sheep – it seems like someone needs to break the ice. Luckily, the greeting is returned by kayaking guide John Barrett from Wild Wet Adventures (wildwetadventures.ie), who is at the nearby boathouse preparing the kayaks. We plan to explore the lake and see some ancient crannógs (man-made islands) and a ring fort.

All just another typical day in Ireland then ...

We’re in the grounds of Temple House (see “Essentials”, page 60), near Ballymote in south Co Sligo. While highlights such as Ben Bulben, Yeats Country or Strandhill are well known to visitors, I am exploring some of the county’s hidden spots and even this tiny area is full of fascinating secrets. We paddle out into the lake, passing through a patch of lily pads and tall reeds, and come to the first crannóg, which dates back to the Neolithic period. Any 54 |

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evidence of a dwelling is long gone – the island is overgrown with trees and bushes.

A little further along the lake shore, we land the kayaks and walk through the forest to a ringfort that dates to megalithic times. “There was a souterrain (underground) passage there,” says John, pointing to the fort’s centre. He tells me how the passage would have been used as storage or for refuge in ancient times, though this one was later filled in to stop animals becoming trapped.

Sligo is full of megalithic features and you can hardly throw a rock without hitting a passage grave or a cairn (stone stacks). The Carrowmore complex of passage graves, which dates back to 3,700BC, is popular with day trippers (carrowmore.com), however a hike to the lesser known Carrowkeel in the Bricklieve mountains with guide Auriel Robinson from Seatrails (seatrails.ie) is a rewarding experience. We drive along a single track and then walk up an old mining trail set in what was once a sea gorge – before the Ice Age, the area was under water – passing mountain sheep and a blackthorn tree. “This would have had magical properties in ancient Celtic times,” says Auriel, adding that such trees were connected with witchcraft and also associated with fairies.

Previous pages, vast and glorious views from the Keash Cave. Top, John Barrett of Wild Wet Adventures kayaking on the grounds of Temple House, and above, fresh produce from the garden at Coopershill.

HOSTING THE WORLD SINCE 1798

Don’t just explore our heritage, immerse yourself in it… people from all over the world have set on a journey through the Dublin mountains to discover the quaint allurement that lies behind the doors at Johnnie Fox’s.

HAVE A HOOLEY

Step back in time to discover the true Irish experience at the renowned Johnnie Fox’s Hooley Night - this includes the famous Fox’s troupe of Irish dancers, lively band playing traditional Irish music, a four course meal by our award winning kitchen and plenty of good ‘aul’ Irish craic.

From Presidents to Prime Ministers, from film icons to farmers, from sporting greats to singing legends, the pub has become famous for its guests and its true ‘Céad mile fáilte’.

Johnnie Fox’s is inimitable to the pretender - It has often been copied, never equalled.

BOOK NOW

to avoid disappointment

www.johnniefoxs.com Phone: +353 1 2955647

DESTINATION | SLIGO

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After a short climb to the hill top, we come to the first cairn – a mound of large stones. Inside is a passage grave with three small burial chambers. We climb in the opening – it’s narrow at the entrance but, further in, we can stand. The graves date to around 3,500BC and when they were opened in 1911, bones, stone tools, beads and pottery were found inside, undisturbed for thousands of years. When we shine a torch, it’s incredible to see how the ancient stonework was put together.

As we walk along the hill’s peat bog to two more cairns (there are 13 in total), I take in views down over Co Sligo and to the sea, across Donegal Bay as far as Slieve League sea cliffs. The hills are also within sight of Carrowmore, the cairn at Knocknarea and the mysterious Knocknashee.

I keep hearing about Knocknashee, which means hill of the fairies, so I join John Barrett for a morning hike. Appropriately, it’s misty, the landscape appearing and disappearing underneath the clouds as we get higher. John tells me how the mountain got its flat top when a giant flew into a rage with the fairies, tore off the peak and flung it across the valley. There are two cairns at the top and – when the weather cooperates – panoramic views.

As well as ancient sites, Sligo is popular for surfing too – there are waves to suit all levels and, in winter, the Atlantic swells draw in the big-wave enthusiasts. I’ve booked a surf session with Perfect Day (perfectdaysurfing.ie) at one of my favourite spots, Streedagh – a long golden beach on a sandbar – but as there’s no surf on the day, we take to Lough Gill

Opposite, clockwise from top left, the view from the grounds of Coopershill House; Elisha Hickey from Perfect Day Surf; four-legged friends; prickly flora at Coopershill House; the view of Knocknarea Hill from the water; an 18-monthold barrel ale at White Hag Brewery; country chic at Temple House; delicious sandwiches at Pudding Row; The Beach Bar at Aughris makes for the perfect pit stop. This page, top, hiking to the top of Keash Cave reaps rewarding vistas and, above, Patrick Ward of Fox’s Den Pub enjoys a well-earned rest once inside.

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DESTINATION | SLIGO

Top, Christina and Simon O’Hara run the beautifully bright and welcoming Coopershill House; above, bottle popping at White Hag Brewery and, right, a misty day in Knocknarea.

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for stand-up paddleboarding, instructed by Elisha Hickey, a former surfing champion.

WB Yeats mentioned Lough Gill in his poetry and, as we glide the gentle waters, I hear about the legends which had inspired him.

One says the lake was formed from tears over the death of a chieftain’s daughter, Gile, and that the lake covers the old city of Sligo.

After a day of activity, the perfect place to relax is Kilcullen’s Bath House at Enniscrone (kilcullenseaweedbaths.net), with hot seawater and rich strands of fresh seaweed, harvested nearby.

Seaweed is said to have beneficial health properties and these baths date back to 1912, with original tubs and pipes giving an authentically bygone feel.

My last Sligo adventure is at the Caves of Keash, another mysterious spot full of legends.

Formed by the sea in ancient times, this is a row of caves along the side of Keshcorran Mountain and the story goes that Irish High King Cormac mac Airt was reared in a cave by a wolf. The caves are also in Fionn MacCumhaill stories – he was said to have been captured by three hags there, and there’s another cairn on top of the mountain.

The caves are large, some are interconnected and, as I take in the views down over a lake, which seems to be in the shape of Ireland, I realise I have hardly scratched the surface of this part of the northeast.

After a few days of fairy stories, legends, underground passages, castles, sheep and caves, mixed with hiking, paddleboarding and beaches, I get that “only in Ireland” feeling again – and I wouldn’t have it any other way.

CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND BUDGET FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

titanic the Legend the Story

ExplorE thE sights, sounds and storiEs of rMs titanic at this world lEading visitor attraction in thE city whErE it all BEgan, BElfast, northErn irEland.

B o o k n o w at t i ta n i c b e l fas t.c o m

DESTINATION | SLIGO

see and do in the area, so leave plenty of time to plan over breakfast. B&B from €90. (Ballina Road, Tubbercurry, 071 918 6095; coilldarahouse.ie)

DRINK CHARACTER As well as a cosy drinking spot with a bar full of character, The Fox’s Den in Keash is a good place to try brews from local craft brewery Lough Gill. Pub owner Patrick Ward is abundant with highlights of the area and of the Caves of Keash in particular – the pub has an adjoining visitor centre and runs guided tours of said caves. (Keash, 071 918 3408; thefoxsden.ie)

ORGANIC A lively spot in the charming village of Easkey, bread and pastries at Pudding Row are baked daily by owner Dervla James, and fruit and veg come from local organic farms. Breakfast dishes include spiced, slow-roast vine tomatoes and cannellini beans on toast with avocado and fried egg, dressed leaves and seeds, or, at lunchtime, try a roast pear, bacon and Hegarty’s Irish cheddar sandwich with organic leaves – just make sure to leave room for cake. (Main Street, Easkey, 096 49794; puddingrow.ie) LIVELY If you have worked up an appetite exploring, Áit Eile, a bustling spot near the seafront in Enniscrone, is the place to go. Favourite dishes include The Black Pig of Enniscrone, incorporating a free-range pork fillet, carrots, cider and mustard cream, or seafood linguine with prawns, mussels, crab claws and clams. (The Square, Enniscrone, 096 37222; aiteile.com)

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EXPERIENTIAL If foodie adventures are your thing, check out the Sligo Food Trail (sligofoodtrail.ie) for everything from jam-making and bread baking classes to foraging workshops and seaweed walks.

Or sign up for Appetite for Adventure on Lough Talt with a morning of activity followed by lunchtime treats, such as oysters and Guinness bread, smoked salmon, cheeses, pastries and local elderberry cordial at Cawley’s in Tubbercurry, who can also provide picnic hampers by order (Emmet Street, Tubbercurry, 071 918 5025; cawleysguesthouse.ie).

from the Perceval family and dinners are a convivial affair at one large dining table. B&B from €175. (Ballymote, 087 997 6045; templehouse.ie)

SLEEP

COUNTRY HOUSE Another beautiful, luxury country house escape, Coopershill House has cosy reception rooms, comfy bedrooms, lots of character with antiques, such as grandfather clocks, and amazing cooking – most of the fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers for the table are grown in the garden.

Outdoors, there’s 200 hectares of woodlands and deer pastures to explore or, inside, cosy up to an open fire. B&B from €202.

(Riverstown, 071 916 5108; coopershill.com)

HISTORIC At the end of a long driveway, with old trees and sheep in parkland along the way, Temple House is a luxury country house with plenty of history. Indoors, rooms are cosy with old family portraits and antiques, while the 400-hectare estate includes castle ruins and a lake. There’s a warm welcome

COSY Coilldara House is a well-appointed, modern country house with bright sitting rooms to relax in and plenty of thoughtful touches for guests, such as walk-in closets, TVs and DVD players. Owner Patricia and her husband Roger are also a mine of information on what to

CRAFTY The mission of the brewers at the White Hag Brewery has been to resurrect ancient Irish ales from 2,000 years ago, when a prominent ingredient in the brewing process was heather tops, rather than hops. Their signature craft brews include Irish Heather Sour ale, which contains peatsmoked barley and heather flowers, or Meabh Rua Irish Bog Ale, a double Irish red ale. Tours and tastings by appointment. (Ballymote, 085 872 2989; thewhitehag.com)

SMART TIP CEREBRAL Find out more about the area at South Sligo Tourism (southsligotourism.ie) and for more on the county’s archaeology and history, the Sligo Field Club (sligofieldclub. com) runs a programme of lectures and guided field-trips focusing on archaeology, natural history and heritage. There is a lecture on October 26 at Sligo Institute of Technology: “The Arrangement of Space in the Irish Passage Tomb Tradition – Monuments in the West and East”.

ILLUSTRATION BY AOIFE DOOLEY

EAT

OLD WORLD A charming thatched pub, The Beach Bar at Aughris beach is the perfect refreshment or food stop after a walk around Aughris Head or across Dunmoran Strand. Sit outside or indoors by the fire, while trying out local craft beers on tap, including Poet’s Pen and Lost Armada from Lough Gill Brewery. (Aughris Head, Templeboy, 071 917 6465; thebeachbarsligo.com)

ONE NIGHT DINNER, BED & BREAKFAST from €199 for two persons sharing

TWO NIGHTS BED & BREAKFAST WITH DINNER ON ONE EVENING from €325 for two persons sharing *Subject to availability, terms and conditions apply.

FACILITIES • Four star hotel • Complete refurbishment in 2016 • Panorama Bistro & Terrace • The Cameo In-House Cinema • Motion Leisure Centre • Free car parking • Free Wi-Fi • Family rooms • Apartments for short or long let • Sunken Victorian Garden • Roof Top Terrace • Bellevue Spa

LOCATION

Overlooking Cork City with spectacular views of the River Lee and beyond. A ten minute walk from all the major attractions and amenities. A ten minute drive to Cork airport.

GAME ON Take a whistle-stop tour of Chicago’s sporting landmarks, ahead of the Irish rugby team’s Autumn International match against Italy here on November 3.

WORDS RAF MIASTKOWSKI PHOTOGRAPHS JASMINE PULLEY

DESTINATION | CHICAGO

C

hicago wasn’t always the gleaming, sky-reaching metropolis perched upon the shores of Lake Michigan. Many moons ago it was just a frontier boomtown, where men of commerce and nefarious characters flocked, with plans of making a few bucks.

According to local lore, at one point regional authorities hatched a scheme wherein they staged an illegal dogfight, confident that it would cause the town’s most notorious characters to come out of hiding. It did, and police promptly arrested the gaggle of desperados and lawbreakers before generously providing them with one-way transportation to the city’s border. Problem solved; back-pats all around.

The story serves as a fitting introduction to two of the city’s most enduring fixations: sport and vice. Much like its famous gangsters and famously corrupt politicians, Chicago’s sports teams have become household names the world over, largely due to Michael Jordan’s Bulls, Mike Ditka’s Bears, and the 64 |

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Cubs and their recently quenched 107-year championship drought.

But, while thousands of travellers visit Chicago every year to pack on to gangster-tour buses and learn about Al Capone’s life of crime, it’s sports that the average Chicagoan will talk at length about with anyone, anywhere. Therefore, in advance of Ireland’s first Autumn International 2018 game versus Italy in this city on November 3, which headlines a triple-header of quality rugby action, I present a handy primer to the Chicago sports landscape ...

The game will take place at Soldier Field, the scene of Ireland’s historic win against the All Blacks in 2016 and home to the Bears American football team, which happens to be one of the original eight charter teams of the National Football League. The stadium itself opened in 1924 but was renovated in 2003, and locals will often mention that it looks like “a UFO landed on top of it”, before admitting that the interior has been substantially improved. A short cab ride away you’ll find St Jane Hotel (see “Essentials” on page 70), which

Previous pages, left, the view from the top of Cindy’s bar and, right, Cubs supporter Rich Buhrke is game ready. Top, Downtown Chicago and above, throwbacks to Ireland’s historic achievement over the All Blacks at the UFO-esque Soldier Field.

C U STO M C r a f T e d LU X U rY

project in association with brazil associates architects

o’ c o n n o r s of drumleck

Showroom by appointment.

Drumleck, castlebellingham, co. Louth T: 042 937 2625 info@oconnorsofdrumleck.ie

oconnorsofdrumleck .ie

DESTINATION | CHICAGO

Light fantastic – vast views of the Windy City are on offer at Cindy’s rooftop bar. Below left and right, sleek interiors and colourful, delicious grub at Mordecai bar and, middle, Kylee Henning gets her best Cubs gear on for match day. Opposite, clockwise from top right, Cubs fans enjoy the view before heading to Wrigley Field; the Ernie Banks statue outside Wrigley Field; historic interiors at the Chicago Athletic Association hotel.

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opened in the stunning Carbide & Carbon Building in July. Named after local hero Jane Addams – the famed reformer, social worker and philanthropist – it’s a gorgeous, ArtDeco-styled urban escape complete with an excellent brasserie, Free Rein, helmed by Michelin-starred chef Aaron Lirette.

Another lodging option for the discerning sports fan is the nearby Chicago Athletic Association hotel (chicagoathletichotel.com). Opened in 1893 during the boom surrounding the World’s Columbian Exposition, the CAA was originally a private club for the city’s plutocrats, industrialists and well-connected. Five-time Olympic gold medallist Johnny Weissmuller used to train here and the air of history is palpable – but it’s also a hangout for locals looking to let loose in fancy environs.

About five kilometres west you’ll find the United Center, home to the Bulls basketball team and the Blackhawks hockey team. Games here sell out regardless of how well the Bulls are playing – a result of Michael Jordan and the 1990s championship Bulls squads turning half the planet into fans. On the South Side, you’ll find the city’s second-most-popular baseball team, the White Sox, who play at Guaranteed Rate Field. While

the Cubs may get more national attention, Sox loyalists are generally proud of the team’s lack of bandwagon fans. Tickets to White Sox games are usually available and affordable, and the baseball stadium itself is a great place to enjoy a pint, but visitors looking to see the local haunts should stop in at Shinnick’s Pub (shinnicks.com) on Union Avenue.

Open since 1938, the corner tavern has served as a reliable hangout for blue-collar Bridgeport residents, White Sox fans and politicos working at the nearby 11th Ward offices, which served as a launching pad for the careers of mayors Richard J Daley and Richard M Daley.

Over on the North Side of town, the neighbourhood of Wrigleyville is home to Wrigley Field and the Cubs baseball team. Visiting the historic ballpark is in many ways a trek back in time, as modern niceties such as giant replay monitors have been avoided in favour of handoperated scoreboards and an iconic red marquee that hangs over the front entrance. The neighbourhood has had a massive overhaul in recent years, with construction and updates surrounding the immediate area around “The Friendly Confines”, as Wrigley Field is known. One of the most-welcome additions is Hotel

Holidays with Aer Lingus Visit our one-stop shop for all your package holiday needs at aerlingus. com. Find the perfect family holiday to the sun, romantic city break, unforgettable cruises, and more.

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DESTINATION | CHICAGO

Zachary (hotelzachary.com), a 173room boutique hotel inspired by the designs of renowned architect and Chicagoan Zachary Taylor Davis, who also happened to design Wrigley Field. And while the area offers dozens of sports bars, I recommend Mordecai (mordecaichicago.com) the sleek cocktail bar from Matthias Merges, who worked under the legendary chef Charlie Trotter for 14 years. The bar itself is named after former Cubs pitcher Mordecai “Three Finger” Brown, who lost two fingers on his right hand in a farm machinery accident as a child but still developed the ability to throw a slippery curveball. On the menu you’ll find plenty of quality drinks and thoughtful bar bites, such as the excellent beer-battered cheese curds with scallion, bonito, togarashi and black garlic aioli.

Finally, a visit to the Globe Pub (see “Essentials” on page 70) on West Irving Park Road should also be on any serious sports fan’s itinerary. As quite possibly the best sports bar in Chicago, the Globe televises everything from rugby games to Champions League matches to the annual Oxford versus Cambridge Boat Race. Even Rod Stewart used to stop in to watch football matches here while on tour.

In the mid-1800s, a Chicagobased sporting man looked very different to today’s enthusiastic spectator. Spending much of his time at the racetrack, bar – or brothel – absorbed by the bareknuckle boxers of the day and willing to place the kind of wagers that can potentially lead to painful consequences, the sporting man was considered a headache by the clergy, businessmen and middle class. Fortunately, Chicago has grown out of that phase and today boasts some of the most historic sports teams and stadiums in America, offering a feast for the senses and a damn good time.

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Clockwise from above, downtime zoning in the lobby of Hotel Zachary; pre-match fuel of chilled somen noodles; merchandise up for grabs outside Wrigley Field.

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CHICAGO ESSENTIALS of the small local chain has been operating since 1934 and was popularised by a recurring Saturday Night Live skit. (430 N Michigan Ave, +1 312 222 1525; billygoattavern.com) INSTITUTION If you’re looking to catch a Bears or Blackhawks game, chances are that the Globe Pub will have it on. While most sports bars stick to the American standards, this Irish bar transforms into an early-morning party pad whenever important soccer or rugby matches are happening across the Atlantic.

You’ll want to get here early for the big game. (1934 W Irving Park Rd, +1 773 871 3757; theglobepub.com)

DRINK FUSS-FREE Occasionally a player will hit a baseball with such force at Wrigley Field that it will fly out of the stadium and land on Sheffield Avenue, just in front of Murphy’s Bleachers, above. Located adjacent to the Cubs’ home, it has been a no-fuss sports pub for the serious (or at least seriously drinking) fan for close to 80 years. Expect a crowd on game days. (3655 N Sheffield Ave, +1 773 281 5356; murphysbleachers.com) SNL FABULOUS Formerly a hangout for journalists and ink-stained workers who manned the presses at the nearby Chicago Tribune, the subterranean Billy Goat Tavern remains one of the best Downtown watering holes at which to enjoy a game with a cold brew and cheeseburger in hand. This original location

STAY

of industry have called home, it’s listed on the National Register of Historic Places. This boutique bed and breakfast offers timeless accommodation within close proximity of Soldier Field and Guaranteed Rate Field.

Rooms from $335. (2020 S Calumet Ave, +1 312 945 2020; wheelermansion.com) ALL-ROUNDER Located just steps away from the bustling Michigan Avenue, the 287-room Conrad Chicago Hotel was designed with 1960s/1970s Modernism in mind. While it’s in a prime spot for shopping, guests won’t want to miss Baptiste & Bottle, which serves contemporary American dishes, and also Noyane, which offers great views and Japaneseinspired eats. Rooms from $195. (101 E Erie St, +1 312 667 6700; conradchicagohotel.com)

DECO Considered by many Chicagoans to be the best-looking building in town, the historic Carbon & Carbide building resembles a champagne bottle covered in polished black granite, gold leaf, and green terracotta. It offers an elegant home for the St Jane Hotel, which is named after 1931 Nobel Peace Prizewinner and Chicagoan Jane Addams. History buffs will appreciate the thoughtful details here. Rooms from $206. (230 N Michigan Ave, +1 312 345 1000; stjanehotel.com) LISTED Built in 1870, the Wheeler Mansion, below, was lucky to be one of the few big houses to survive the Great Chicago Fire of 1871. Located in the historic South Prairie Avenue neighbourhood, which several titans

SMART TIPS WAIT ‘N’ SAVE For Cubs games, fans can often score the best deals for tickets by purchasing them off a scalper (tout) outside the stadium – it’s actually common practice around those parts. Just wait for the game to start and the prices to drop, and spend the savings on the overpriced beer inside.

CAR-FREE ZONE With public transport readily available to every major stadium in town, parking can be a tremendous but unnecessary hassle for sports fans. This is doubly true for catching a game at Soldier Field, which is located in the perfect spot for experiencing traffic jams. Take the bus instead, or consider a nice long walk.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to CHICAGO twice daily.

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10 BEST SIPPING SOJURNS Nicola Brady raises a glass to spirited breaks and vineyard vacations.

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FRANCE Château St Pierre de Serjac

Run by an Irish hotelier and a French wine maker, this working vineyard is a dreamland for vin lovers. The quintessentially French château is set among the rolling vines and olive groves of the Languedoc region, and offers wine walks, vineyard tours, food and wine pairings, as well as blending workshops. But if all that’s too much, you can just flop on a sun lounger by the pool. Rooms from €225. (Between Pouzolles and Magalas, +33 4 6780 7600; serjac.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Montpellier from March 2019 until September.

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SMART EDIT | SIPPING SOJOURNS

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USA Napa Valley Wine Train

If you want to see California’s Napa Valley in style, you’d be hard pushed to beat the Wine Train. On the Quattro Vino tour, you’ll board one of the vintage Pullman rail cars for a six-hour round trip that takes in four of Napa’s most beloved wineries (with no designated driver required). But it’s not just wine – you can now take the Tequila or the Hop Train, too. Tickets from $332. (1275 McKinstry Street, +1 707 253 2111; winetrain.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.

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PRAGUE Beer Spa The idea of soaking in a bath full of beer may not strike you as appealing but a dip in this tub of hops, malt and brewer’s yeast will certainly leave you glowing (as will the unlimited beer on tap).

Afterwards, work up a sweat in the hop sauna then relax by the fire on a bed made of straw, with a chunk of warm beer bread in your hand. From €109. (Žitná 658/9, +420 252 544 849; beerspa.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Prague up to six times per week.

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UK The Distillery London’s 186 Portobello Road has housed various drinking establishments since 1867. So, it makes sense that it’s home to the UK’s first gin hotel.

Here, you’ll find four floors dedicated to the art of gin – you can learn how to distil your own blend in the basement of The Ginstitute, then drink your way up the bars and restaurants until you collapse in the cute bedrooms on the top floor, decked out with record players and pre-mixed cocktails in the minibar. Rooms from £125. (186 Portobello Road, +44 20 3034 2233; the-distillery.london)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London multiple times daily.

With driftwood four-posters, Moroccan shagpile rugs and crisp white walls, The Lin Beach House in Greenport, New York, has the kind of interiors that’ll make you swoon. There are just five bedrooms, along with a bar serving up cocktails from a menu that changes daily – the small-batch spirits served are made nearby at their “big brother” business, the Matchbook Distilling Co. There are a stonking 54 wineries nearby and the village of Greenport is as chic as Montauk but minus the crowds. Rooms from $250.

(455 Route 25, +1 646 640 7194; linbeachhouse.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily, and from Shannon up to seven times per week.

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AL HIGGINS

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USA The Lin Beach House

IRELAND Listoke Distillery

In recent years it seems like a new gin has popped up every other week. But if you haven’t yet found one that tickles your fancy, head to the Listoke Gin School in Co Louth and whip up a bottle of your own.

You’ll tour the distillery, learn how to mix different flavour profiles and leave with a bottle of your own bespoke blend, ready for the G&T of your dreams. The Gin School costs €95. (Unit 9 Tenure Business Park, 087 290 1771; listokedistillery.ie)

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SCOTLAND Isle of Raasay Distillery With rugged coastlines, sweeping moors and one corker of a mountain, the Hebridean Isle of Raasay is the perfect setting for a whisky distillery. This spot is so new that their first batch isn’t even ready yet but you can tour the distillery, enjoy a dram of their teaser single malt called While We Wait, then warm the cockles in one of the six swish bedrooms onsite. Rooms from £126. (Isle of Raasay, +44 1478 470 178; raasaydistillery.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Aberdeen up to six times per week.

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USA Ocean Key Resort There’s something about the easy, breezy way of life in Florida’s Key West that just cries out for a cocktail.

And while there are many places to get your fix, the Ocean Key Resort goes one better and teaches you how to shake up your own. Their weekly mixology classes take place in the Hot Tin Roof bar overlooking the harbour, and you’ll make (and drink) classic cocktails such as Daiquiris and Negronis, as well as their signature concoctions. Rooms from $279. (Duval Street, +1 305 296 7701; oceankey.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Miami three times per week.

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IRELAND Ballyvolane House If your idea of the perfect night away involves snuggling up by an open fire with a G&T close at hand, then make a beeline for Ballyvolane House in Co Cork. This gorgeous country pile – where Prince Charles and Camilla stayed this year – is the home of Bertha’s Revenge, the small-batch, cow’s whey gin made right onsite. Pick one of the rooms with a deep antique bathtub and sink in with a B&T (Bertha’s and Tonic) from the colossal honesty bar. Heaven. Rooms from €200. (Castlelyons, Fermoy, 025 36349; ballyvolanehouse.ie)

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SPAIN Hotel Marqués de Riscal Think the only way to enjoy wine is by cracking open a bottle? Think again. At the Basque Country’s Hotel Marqués de Riscal – designed by Frank Gehry, no less – you can reap the benefits of the grape in the Vinothérapie SPA Caudalie.

Soak in a barrel bath filled with grape pomace, take a red wine bath (infused with red vine extracts) or get a “Crushed Cabernet” scrub. Rooms from €310.

(Calle Torrea 1, +34 945 180 880; hotel-marquesderiscal.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bilbao up to four times per week.

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VILLE

Manhattan isn’t the only city with a fascinating Upper East Side. Paris’ lively North East enclave is well worth venturing off the beaten rue for.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS CONOR HORGAN

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P

aris is always a good idea, and one of the many attractions of this dense, culturally rich city is the potential for discovering new and exciting quartiers. Right now, the very best part to explore is the vibrant, rapidly changing North East. The meeting point of the 9, 10, 11 and 20 arrondissements – the area ranges from Belleville, where people of all backgrounds and cultures rub shoulders with a recent influx of “bobos” (bourgeois bohemians) to the foodie streets around Rue de Charonne – and encompasses some of Paris’ best parks and cultural spaces along with many other offthe-beaten-track delights.

Paris is one of the very best walking cities and the North East is no exception – start off strolling northwards along the Canal St Martin, where hundreds of young Parisians come to picnic on warm evenings, or browse through the maze of little shopping streets off the canal. To keep the blood sugar levels 80 |

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topped up, try a pistachio escargot from legendary boulangerie Du Pain et des Idées (dupainetdesidees.com) or drop in to sample a delicious brownie made by American-chocolatier-inParis Jed Jordan in Denver Williams (denverwilliams.fr).

Suitably fortified, strike out for the Bassin de la Villette, a wide and airy canal basin, which gives a welcome break from the thronged Parisian streets. At night the banks are transformed into pétanque playgrounds, where the clink of the metal boules is joined by the clink of bottles toasting this very French pastime. There are two MK2 cinemas (mk2pro.com) facing each other across the water, both showing the latest films in VOSTF (original version with French subtitles). They even have a complimentary ferry running between them for anyone who has arrived at the wrong cinema.

Fans of classic movies are well served by the nearby Louxor (cinemalouxor. fr), an Egyptian-themed picture palace dating from 1921 on

Opening pages, sun sets on Rue de Belleville and the Eiffel Tower. Top, three’s company on the Canal St Martin, middle, on top of the world at Parc des Buttes-Chaumont and, above, mementoes at a vide-grenier (attic sale).

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DESTINATION | PARIS

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*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

Boulevard de Magenta. Further north again on the edge of Parc de Villette is the Cité de la Musique (citedelamusique.fr), a stunning, purpose-built complex of concert halls, which is the principal home of l’Orchestre de Paris. It also hosts regular guest appearances by classical music luminaries including Daniel Barenboim, along with contemporary music festivals curated by artists such as Nils Frahm and David Byrne.

Not far away is the unmissable Le Centquartre-Paris (104.fr) a huge arts and cultural space set in an industrial building that formerly housed the municipal undertakers.

It’s absolutely bursting with life these days, with locals using the dedicated spaces for all kinds of dance practice alongside world-class visual art, theatre and music events.

If all of that hasn’t worked up enough of an appetite, you can climb a (man-made) mountain in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, Paris’ highest park. Sculpted from a limestone quarry, the park’s swooping landscapes, suspension

bridge and waterfall in a cave makes it feel a little like you’ve wandered onto the set of a Tim Burton film.

Heading south from the Park brings you into Belleville proper. Walking along the Rue de Belleville, you can pause and pay your respects to the “Sparrow of Belleville”, Édith Piaf, who was born in the doorway of number 72 on December 19, 1915. Near the end of the street, Rue Denoyez boasts one of the best, constantly changing collections of street art in the city. Take a guided tour (in English) from Street Art Paris (streetartparis.fr).

A trip to Belleville wouldn’t be complete without visiting one of the bustling street markets on the Boulevard – plunge in, and you could be on a street in North Africa or the Middle East as the vendors holler good-naturedly in several languages, all the while plying you with samples of fresh melon or figs.

They’re hard to resist and you’ll find yourself walking away with a bag stuffed full of great fruit‘n’veg for almost nothing.

Opposite page, clockwise from top left, video game designer Lara Williams; apéros at Le Perchoir, a bar atop a sevenstorey office building; Irish poet Ingrid Casey gives a reading at Cabaret Populaire; performance artist Kay Garnellen; every colour under the sun on Rue Denoyez; vegan goodness at Les Bois d’Antoine. Top, a World Cup victory in Le Foot; above, tribute to poet Arthur Rimbaud in Montmartre.

Fly return to PARIS for 9,000 Avios points.

Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*

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DESTINATION | PARIS

Top, great coffee comes in small premises like Boot Café; above, pan-fried duck breast, stuffed ravioli and roasted figs from Pierre Sang Signature – and finishing touches.

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Surprisingly, really good coffee can be difficult to find in Paris. But one place that you can always rely on for a decent café crème is the tiny Boot Café, a converted cobbler’s shop on Rue du Pont aux Choux.

Another favourite is La Fontaine de Belleville (cafesbelleville.com), which is owned by local coffee roastery the Belleville Brulerie.

Many of the grand shopping streets in Paris specialise in selling one particular kind of product. You’ll find every kind of cosmetic under the sun on Boulevard de Strasbourg; Boulevard Beaumarchais is thronged with camera shops selling everything from the latest models to antique plate cameras, and you could outfit an entire wedding party for astonishingly little in one of the many boutiques on Boulevard de Magenta. If you prefer a selection of designer items under one roof, Merci (merci-merci.com) is the place.

A warren of gifts, furnishings and fashion in a courtyard off Boulevard Beaumarchais, there’ll be something here for even the most discerning of shoppers.

After picking up some handdyed linen sheets in Merci, why not

treat yourself to a ten-euro “Rolex”, that’ll probably dye your hand? Flea markets are famously part of the Paris experience but, in the spirit of exploration, check out the more authentic vide-greniers. Literally translating as “emptying your attics”, these pop-up markets appear all over the quarter every weekend and are where the real treasures are likely to be found (vide-greniers.org).

For a more contemplative afternoon stroll, the Père Lachaise cemetery is unbeatable, though its quietness is often punctured by loudly croaking ravens. Make sure to visit Oscar Wilde’s tomb, which is grand enough to be a Pharaoh’s last resting place.

To top off your North Eastern expedition, go to the heart of Belleville and raise a glass in honour of La Piaf at the buzzing Aux Folies (aux-folies-belleville.fr), the first place that the singer performed indoors – before that she’d worked as a busker on the streets of Pigalle.

The North East is now the most exciting, vibrant area of Paris, so make sure to explore it before it changes too much. After all, isn’t it always better to go through life regretting nothing?

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DESTINATION | PARIS

Paris Essentials

SLEEP HISTORIC Scarcely grand, the Grand Hotel de Clermont is a small, simple and friendly place on the lower slopes of Montmartre.

Having said that, it was grand enough for Edith Piaf, who lived here during the years she worked as a street singer. Rooms from €58.

(18 Rue Véron, +33 14 606 4099; grandhoteldeclermont.fr) UPTOWN Close to Père Lachaise, Mama Shelter is the perfect base for exploring the North East.

Family friendly, with blackboard decor, a foosball table and rooms designed by Philippe Starck (remember him?). Rooms from €99. (109 Rue de Bagnolet, +33 14 348 4848; mamashelter.com) DESIGNER With 16 unique rooms designed by Christian Lacroix on a theme of “voyages”, Petit

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Moulin is a secret hideaway in the fashionable North Marais – and the perfect place for a romantic weekend. The reception area retains many of the features of its former incarnation as one of the oldest bakeries in Paris. Rooms from €208. (29-31 Rue de Poitou, +33 14 274 1010; hotelpetitmoulinparis.com)

EAT LE SANDWICH La Fontaine de Belleville is a classic French café and home to probably the best croque-monsieur in Paris. Made from Comté cheese aged for 24 months, homemade béchamel sauce and Prince de Paris ham, this is a sandwich to savour. Great coffee as well, with bags of fresh beans on sale provided by the Belleville Brulerie. (31-33 Rue Juliette Dodu, +33 98 175 5454; cafesbelleville.com)

NEW BREED On the lovely Place Sainte-Marthe, Le Galopin is run by French TV Top Chef winner Romain Tischenko, with his brother Maxime as frontof-house manager. This is one of the very best of the new French bistros, with an inventive, constantly changing menu and an emphasis on the freshest of ingredients. (34 Rue SainteMarthe, +33 14 206 0503; le-galopin.com) SURPRISE! Signature by Pierre Sang is the latest finedining restaurant from French/ Korean culinary star Pierre Sang and where you can enjoy a surprise tasting menu (they only tell you what each dish is once you’ve eaten it) in a small, intimate room that seats just 12 guests. Reservations essential.

(8 Rue Gambey, +33 96 731 9680; pierresang.com)

SMART TIPS LOW FARE It’s worth buying a carnet of ten Metro tickets at a time, which gives a 25 per cent reduction. They don’t go out of date, so any unused tickets can be used on subsequent Paris trips.

MUSÉE MAGIC Most museums and galleries in Paris close on Tuesdays, rather than on Mondays, as in many other cities. If you’re tight on time the Palais de Tokyo (palaisdetokyo.com), Paris’ main contemporary art museum, stays open until midnight.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PARIS four times daily and from Cork daily.

DISHY DC

As America’s midterm elections gather pace, we eschew the corridors of power for a chow around some of Washington DC’s most exciting restaurants – and not a steakhouse in sight.

PHOTOGRAPHS JENNIFER CHASE

DESTINATION | WASHINGTON DC

1 Opening pages, left, A Rake’s Progress is a light, bright, hip restaurant at The LINE hotel in the Adams Morgan neighbourhood – and thankfully nothing like the seamy gin emporiums of its Hogarthian namesake; and right, a hearty, spicy broth at Dabney, where many dishes are slow-roasted over a wood-burning hearth.

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1 The playful Barmini, which serves cocktails right beside its Minibar cousin.

2 Chef Jerome Grant, who rules the roost at Sweet Home Café at the African American Museum, a restaurant that celebrates the melting pot of cuisine and culture.

3 Pier pressure?

Not at the Navy Yard waterfront, where laidback bars and restaurants overlook the river.

From pretzels to victuals – there’s much to try at Barmini.

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*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

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4 Triple threat – Maydan chef Chris Morgan, owner Rose Previte and chef Gerald Addison are cooking up a storm with their Middle Easterninspired hangout.

5 Comfort eats at Sweet Home Café.

6 Stairs or seats?

You decide at The LINE hotel.

7 Chef Gerald Addison roasts monster prawns over Maydan’s open fire.

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Fly return to Washington DC from Dublin for 40,000 Avios points.

Remember, if you don’t have enough Avios points to fly to where you want to go, you can use the Avios points you have and pay the rest in cash*.

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DESTINATION | WASHINGTON DC

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to WASHINGTON DC daily.

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8 During the summer months, Dabney’s private patio is the perfect grassy knoll.

9 Get a grip – apples inventively on display at Barmini. 10 Smokin’ – a cloud cocktail at Barmini. 11 Give peas (and morels) a chance at Minibar.

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The full range is available from stockists including The Kilkenny Shop, Brown Thomas, House of Ireland, Arnotts & House of Fraser

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DESTINATION | WASHINGTON DC

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WASHINGTON DC ESSENTIALS

12 12 A dishy fish dish at Dabney.

13 Spot the unicorn at Union Market, an upscale food court and market.

14 As well as sating the appetites of young professionals, Union Market also has indie retail units, such as this pop-up store selling leather shoes from Turkey.

STAY

EAT

HIPPEST A reconverted church, The LINE opened to much fanfare earlier this year and for just cause. With Morgan West as its creative cultural director (she’s the founder of acreativedc.com) and fellow raconteur Farrah Skeiky as her PR sidekick (Skeiky is a photographer and punk-rock musician), the hotel is at the epicentre of DC creativity.

Tasteful rooms are nonchalantly understated – the style you wish you had at home – and the food is James Beard-standard. Rooms from $135. (1770 Euclid Street NW, +1 202 588 0525; thelinehotel.com)

FUN Innovative and playful, the double Michelin starred Minibar is the brainchild of the blockbuster Basque chef José Andrés. For further proof that DC is no longer a steakhouse town, take a seat at this brilliantly bonkers place where food, art and science collide. Be sure to try its neighbour Barmini, which offers experiential cocktail flights as part of its 100-strong tipple menu. (855 E St NW, +1 202 393 0812; minibarbyjoseandres.com)

HOTTING UP Set to become the city’s premiere “woke” magnet, Eaton DC is being managed by the 36-year-old tastemaker Katherine Lo, whose father is the founder of Hong Kong’s Langham Hospitality Group.

Witness activists and aesthetes flocking to this community-focused operation, whose spot-hitting USPs couldn’t be more on-trend: lobby radio station; co-working spaces; artist residencies; rooftop farm; holistic centre; private cinema; juice bar; speakeasy; event spaces galore and a food hall helmed by bright young chef Tim Ma. Rooms from $169. (1201 K Street NW, +1 202 289 7600; eatonworkshop.com)

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LOCATION, LOCATION Don’t be put off by its mouthful-name – Canopy by Hilton Washington DC The Wharf is well worth investigating. Gleaming interiors are enhanced by floor-to-ceiling panoramas of the waterfront, where one of the city’s hottest concert venues, The Anthem, draws a discerning crowd. The hotel’s rooftop bar has picture-perfect views of the Potomac river.

Rooms from $225. (975 7th Street SW, +1 202 488 2500; canopy3.hilton.com)

PRODIGIOUS Maydan marks the triumphant triumvirate of owner Rose Previte and chefs Chris Morgan and Gerald Addison. They have wooed as many critics as they have customers: in August, Bon Appetit ranked it the second-best restaurant in the entire USA, while Eater, Food and Wine and GQ are all huge fans. Cuisine is Middle Eastern inspired, with a bit of North Africa and the Caucasus thrown in, while the vibe is mellow. (1346 Florida Ave NW, +1 202 370 3696; maydandc.com) GENIAL Chef Jeremiah Langhorne filled a niche at Dabney by focusing specifically on Mid-Atlantic cuisine, which, curiously, few DC chefs were doing. And this summer it paid off spectacularly: he won the 2018 James Beard Award for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic, one of the industry’s highest accolades. Cosy, casual and conducive for arriving with friends and sharing a great bottle of wine. (122 Blagden Alley NW, +1 202 450 1015; thedabney.com) DAYTIME DELIGHT Located at the National Museum of African American History and Culture – a Smithsonian institution – Sweet Home Café is an exhibit in its own right, showcasing the best of Afro-American cuisine, from Creole Coast creations, such as Louisiana catfish po’boys, to Northern-State pepper pots. (1400 Constitution Ave NW, +1 844 750 3012; nmaahc.si.edu)

DUNNE & CRESCENZI Valued collection of casual Italian restaurants

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

History in every plate...

Whether by design of not, Dunne & Crescenzi has come to represent a particular way of life, of eating and socialising with friends and family. It has evolved into that which goes beyond the mere business of food service into what can only be described as a punto d’incontro, simply a meeting place in which the most Italian of things occur - socialising and food become inextricably interlinked. In this respect Stefano and Eileen Crescenzi feel they have ceded ownership of the restaurant to the people who so joyously inhabit it.

14-16 South Frederick St. Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6759892

11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount Dublin 4 Tel: +353 (1) 667 3252

Kildare Retail Village Tel: +353 45 535850

Dundrum Town Centre Tel: +353 (1) 2166764

www.dunneandcrescenzi.com Proud to be part of the

Open daily Book a day trip from Dublin with Railtours Ireland

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A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects

McKenna Top 100 Restaurant Guide On social media:

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Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items

www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com Phone: +353 (0) 51 317000

ADVERTORIAL

So, if you need to tackle tiredness*, iron might just be the answer.

As a GP and TV medic I am constantly surprised at people’s lack of understanding of the important link between iron and energy.

The essential mineral that is iron plays an important role in the metabolism of energy so it can reduce tiredness and fatigue. It is also important for cognitive function, immune function and the production of red blood cells and haemoglobin.

Many of us don’t get enough iron in our diet and inadequate intake can lead to a lack of energy, pale skin, brittle spoon-shaped nails or even hair loss. The normal range for iron in the blood is anything from 10 to 300, but for anyone with thinning hair I like to aim for a level of at least 70.

So where do we find iron in our diet?

Well, green leafy vegetables like spinach, red meat, liver and

quinoa are all great sources of dietary iron, and there is no substitute for a healthy well-balanced diet, but if you struggle to get enough iron in your diet, you may choose to supplement.

Most people absorb about 10% of dietary iron.

Vitamin C aids absorption and iron is best taken on an empty stomach, but milk, calcium and antacids can reduce absorption. And the human body absorbs iron less well from plant sources, but if you’re thinking of increasing your meat intake remember most authorities recommend an upper limit of 500 grams a week.

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Some products get around this by reducing the dose but that makes them less effective, so if you’re looking for an iron supplement look for one that is well absorbed and kind on your system.

Dr Dawn Harper is an NHS GP in Gloucestershire and has worked as a media doctor for over ten years. She is best known as one of the presenters on Channel 4's hit series Embarrassing Bodies.

New Active Iron & B Complex Plus for Women and for Men are available now in leading Pharmacies across the UK & Ireland and online at myactiveiron.com

Food supplements are not a substitute for a varied diet and healthy lifestyle. *Iron contributes to normal energy yielding metabolism and to the reduction of tiredness and fatigue. **Wang et al, Acta Haematologica 2017; 138: 223-232

TV’s Dr Dawn Harper makes the link between fatigue and a lack of iron in the diet – and offers some simple solutions.

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FIVE SPELLB IN DING

CEMETERIES Halloween cloaks and daggers at the ready – Vic O’Sullivan celebrates some of the world’s most surprisingly impressive resting places.

IRELAND FOR REBELS

The founding members of the Irish Republic rest peacefully in Ireland’s most famous burial grounds, Glasnevin Cemetery in Dublin. The giant column near the entrance is the tomb of Daniel O’Connell, one of Ireland’s most significant historical figures, who achieved Catholic

emancipation in 1829, while political leader Éamon de Valera and champion of the War of Independence, Michael Collins, lie amongst fellow esteemed peers including Constance Markievicz and Cathal Brugha. Guided tours from the excellent Glasnevin Museum are highly recommended. glasnevintrust.ie

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SMART EDIT | CEMETERIES

UK FOR ATMOSPHERE

Overgrown and atmospheric, London’s Highgate Cemetery is a veritable Gothic nirvana for visitors. Until superstar George Michael’s untimely death, Karl Marx, Lucien Freud and authors Douglas Adams and George Eliot were the most famous people interred in this time capsule of Victorian London that is also a nature reserve.

The cemetery has an east and west side, the latter with its ivy-clad mausoleums, Egyptian Avenue and Circle of Lebanon, where tombs were constructed around an ancient cedar tree, can be visited by tour only. highgatecemetery.org

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to London up to 14 times daily, from Cork up to five times daily, from Shannon three times daily and from Belfast to London Heathrow up to four times daily. Flights from Dublin to London Gatwick run up to six times daily and now also to London City.

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SMART EDIT | CEMETERIES

FRANCE FOR MASTERS OF CEREMONIES

Irish playwright Oscar Wilde’s flamboyant tomb at Paris’ Père Lachaise is guarded by a giant winged figure and 1960s rock legend Jim Morrison’s modest final resting place may contrast, er, gravely with one another, but they are the star attractions of the world’s most-visited cemetery.

The Gothic tomb effigies can have an unsettling effect, some lying as though just taking a nap … So, you might want to take a companion. Other notable names buried here include painter Pissarro, singer Édith Piaf, composer Chopin, and writers Balzac, Proust and Gertrude Stein. perelachaisecemetery.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris

four times daily.

USA FOR MEGAWATT STARS

Just because the famous residents of Hollywood Forever have departed from this world, don’t expect their stars to burn less brightly in the afterlife. Hollywood legends such as Rudolph Valentino, Judy Garland, Cecil B DeMille, Tyrone Power and John Huston are buried throughout this Los Angeles cemetery’s heavenly landscape, which regularly hosts outdoor screenings of classic movies and also dancing competitions.

Still have some morbid fascination left? Half an hour away, Bing Crosby, Rita Hayworth and John Ford are interred at the lesserknown Holy Cross Cemetery in Culver City. hollywoodforever.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles up to seven times per week.

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SMART EDIT | CEMETERIES

USA FOR REMEMBRANCE

A short distance across the Potomac River from the Lincoln Memorial is Arlington Cemetery, a quiet refuge from Washington DC’s central seat of power. Some 400,000 military personnel are buried beneath the swathes of neat, white gravestones, while an eternal flame marks the grave of John F Kennedy and his family. The hourly ceremonial changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier – every 30 minutes during summer – pays a sombre tribute to those who have dedicated their lives to serve their country. arlingtoncemetery.mil

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Washington Dulles daily.

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MONAGHAN’S

CASHMERE STORE Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide

One Destination

A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

Tom & Suzanne Monaghan

A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom and Suzanne Monaghan in their store at 21 South Anne Street. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere selling a wide range of classic sweaters in the latest styles and colours for both men and women.

As they celebrate 58 years Tom and Suzanne would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents (terms and conditions apply)

M Monaghans Cashmere, 21 South Anne Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

www.monaghanscashmere.ie

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by booking online

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Co. Clare, Ireland.

E: info@cliffsofmoher.ie

T: +353 65 7086141 www.cliffsofmoher.ie

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

DESTINATION | MINNEAPOLIS

48 HOURS IN MINNEAPOLIS

Amy Zavatto finds there’s nothing mini about the sophisticated Midwestern cool of Minneapolis.

DONʼT MISS …

SCULPTURE SCORE It took over a year to complete, but the al fresco art experience at the newly renovated Minneapolis Sculpture Garden at The Walker Art Center was worth the wait.

In addition to freshening up the park, 17 new sculptures were added, including Hahn/Cock, German artist Katharina Fritsch’s nearly five-metre-high fibreglass rooster in bright blue, as well as a two-hectare stretch of garden made up entirely of prairie plantings native to Minnesota. (725 Vineland Place, +1 612 375 7600; walkerart.org)

DRINK AT ...

Top, old versus new in Minneapolis.

Right, the highly spirited Du Nord Craft Spirits.

Below, game day at Target Field.

LEGEND IN PURPLE Prince fan alert: No visit to Minneapolis is complete without an homage to Paisley Park, the recording studio and estate of His Great Purpleness in the suburb of Chanhassen. Check out his custom instruments, original props from Purple Rain and the very soundboard where Prince put the finishing touches on his legendary pop tunes. If the standard tour doesn’t rock your raspberry beret, get in on the Saturday night dance party, Paisley Park After Dark. (7801 Audoban Road; officialpaisleypark.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MINNEAPOLISST PAUL daily from July 1, 2019.

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SPIRITED The boon of distilleries and breweries in Minneapolis has been so prolific, it’s impossible to sip through them all in a single visit. But don’t miss the thoroughly charming Du Nord Craft Spirits, owned by husband-wife team Chris and Chanelle Montana who make it a priority to source ingredients from Minnesota farmers.

(2610 East 32nd Street, +1 612 799 9166; dunordcraftspirits.com) COCKTAIL COOL Accessed via an alley beside the restaurant, Young Joni’s Back Bar conjures a laid-back speakeasy vibe. Its only marking is a red neon light, but this Sheridan neighbourhood gem is an excellent spot to while away an evening with its ever-changing themed list of irreverently named cocktails.

(165 13th Avenue NE, +1 612 345 5719; youngjoni.com)

GAME ON Baseball is such a part of the fibre of Minneapolis, the word is used as a verb (as in, “This is how we baseball”). Head to Target Field in historic North Loop to see the Minnesota Twins run the bases – and, while you’re at it, try out the revamped locally-skewed concessions, the likes of chef Andrew Zimmern’s Korean twist on the Sloppy Joe, the Sloppy Ko, stuffed with tender Korean-style barbecued beef, kimchi, and a wedge of hard-boiled egg. (1 Twins Way, +1 612 659 3400; mlb.com)

SPARKLE STATION Open Thursday through Saturday, bubble fans should swing into Uptown’s Trapeze, a flutesized little bar that focuses exclusively on both traditional Champers and sparkling wines from other regions of the world, with six by-the-glass offerings and a full-on bubbly list of more than 75 bottles. (1600 West Lake Street, +1 612 827 5710; barbette.com)

SLEEP AT ...

BOUTIQUE BOON Located in the trendy North Loop neighbourhood, the Hewing Hotel feels like a cosy hunting lodge folded into an ultramod getaway, with its lobby of sink-in leather chairs and communal rough hewn tables, rooms equipped with locally loomed woollen blankets and custom guest bicycles for exploring the city. But a stop into their Scandinavianinfluenced restaurant, Tullibee (a nod to the city’s Nordic immigrant history) for aquavit-tinged cocktails and smoked fish may well cause you to linger. Rooms from $179. (300 N Washington Avenue, +1 651 468 0400; hewinghotel.com)

TINY TREASURE With only seven rooms, Hotel Alma feels more like a country inn than the digs of a bustling metropolis — that is, if that inn was decked out in Danish modern accents and lived above an excellent café and award-winning, seasonally-shorn restaurant.

Pro tip: while noise-proof care was taken to keep guests slumbering soundly, Room Four is just above the café, open until 10pm on weekends and some of the bustle travels from below. Rooms from $200. (528 University Avenue SE, +612 379 4909; almampls.com)

LUXURY ALLURE You’ll be all too happy to Rapunzel yourself into Hotel Ivy’s Ivy Tower — the circa 1930 two-floor, ziggurat-style suite that was originally part of an unfinished church — with its MN Toddy Turndown. But this autumn the great outdoors calls via the hotel’s new Forest to Fork foray, where you can head out to nearby woodlands with a pro and learn how to identify and cook the bounty you haul in. Rooms from $269. (201 S 11th Street, +612 746 4600; marriott.com)

KEVIN KRAMER

Clockwise from top right, warm and welcoming interiors at the Hewing Hotel; check-in and check out Hotel Alma; cocktail and taco delight at Centro bar; a worth-the-drive meal at Bellecour.

EAT AT ...

FUEL FIRST Minneapolis has no shortage of geeked-out, Instagram-able coffee houses, but with its sincere focus on single-origin beans (sourced from Michigan’s excellent roaster, Madcap) and minimalist aesthetic, Botany is worthy of the buzz it gets and gives — and all the better to focus on all those bean-to-cup nuances. (1830 East 38th Street, +1 612 345 8442; botanycoffee.com) CHEF-DRIVEN After honing his culinary chops in New York under famed chef Daniel Boulud, Gavin Kaysen brought his James Beard-award-winning talent back home to Minneapolis in 2014 when he opened the ever-booked Spoon and Stable in the North Loop. His second restaurant, Bellecour, sits on pretty Lake Minnetonka, about 20 kilometres west of centre, but it’s worth the short trek for his latest fare inspired by jaunts to Lyon with his mentor, Boulud. (739 Lake Street, +1 952 444 5200; bellecourrestaurant.com) FINGER FOOD With eight outstanding tacos created by chef Jose Alarcon from which to choose (the pork shoulder with grilled pineapple and salsa verde is a must), an upbeat bar with cocktails on tap, and the best mezcal offerings in the entire city, cheery Centro was a welcome debut this year to Northeast Minneapolis.

(1414 Quincy Street NE, +1 612 345 5527; popolvuhmpls.com)

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ADVERTORIAL

CHARGING TOWARDS ELECTRIC DRIVING

Electric vehicle advocate Guillaume Seguin finds much to admire in the eco-conscious BMW i3s.

When BMW launched its first electric car in 2014, the BMW i3 captivated critics – but divided public opinion, with its quirky exterior and unlikely BMW design.

What caught critics’ attention was not how it looked, but what it represented.

With a pretty awesome architecture, the i3 was concocted to be sustainable from the ground up, which remains true in the i3s; a carbon fibre body shell, recycled materials and sustainable production processes including wind power, are all part of how the i3 comes to life. These

technologies combine to reduce the weight of the car – lightweight means a better range for an EV. Extensive use of Kenaf, a lightweight sustainable material is evident throughout the interior and replaces petroleum based plastics.

A eucalyptus wood dash and olive leaf-tanned leather sum up what this car is today: technological and respectful of the environment.

I particularly like the eucalyptus wood trim on the dashboard on which the large infotainment screen appears to be floating.

THE DRIVE At four metres long

it is a supermini, but inside you are seated up high, more like in an SUV. Meanwhile the large windows give great visibility and make the cabin feel airy. With a 0 to 100 km/h in 6.9 seconds, you’re in hot hatch territory – pure acceleration that’s guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

THE RANGE While writing this article, BMW announced a new battery to the BMW i3s bringing the range up to as much as 260kms in real-world everyday conditions.

That means – on one charge – all Irish cities eg Dublin to Cork or Cork to Galway, are now within

Frenchman Guillaume Séguin, editor for the Irish EV Owners Association, has been living in Co Cork for over a decade. He is an expert on and an advocate for electric vehicle adoption, providing support and advice for people thinking of switching. Follow Guillaume on Twitter at @Lutecia44.

reach, depending on your driving style and mode chosen.

More than a great EV, this BMW i3s is undoubtedly one of the best city cars out there, ticking all the boxes: fun to drive, great visibility all round and instant electric acceleration.

New Government incentives have also been introduced, such as 0 per cent BIK (Benefit in Kind for fleet and business users) reduced tolls, and a free-to-use public charging network, all of which combine to make the i3s a very real possibility for motorists to consider electric.

ON BUSINESS

Making travel work for you

DÜS SEL DORF 110

HIGH ACHIEVER Fiona Leonard discovers the broad appeal of working and doing business in Düsseldorf’s not so big city.

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A DAY IN THE LIFE Home delivery food isn’t just for humans – Gary Redmond tapped into a niche for peckish dogs.

Here’s his working-day insight.

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LIMERICK STRAND, ETC We check into the perfect pit stop at Limerick’s Strand Hotel and suss out hot new digs in Paris, Hamburg and Vienna.

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SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Gràinne Barron, CEO and founder of cloud-based video platform Viddyad, muses on her life and work in San Francisco.

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Business

W

ith a population of just over 600,000 you could be forgiven for assuming that Düsseldorf is one of Germany’s smaller players, languishing behind the likes of Berlin and Frankfurt. But this is a city that punches well above its weight. Ranked in the top three European destinations for Foreign Direct Investment – second only to London and ahead of Paris – Düsseldorf is rapidly establishing itself as an economic hotspot in both Germany and the broader European market. The capital of North-Rhine Westphalia, Düsseldorf has an international population of close to 20 per cent and is home to corporate heavy-hitters such as E.ON, Henkel, McKinsey, Mitsubishi and Vodafone.

The city also has a rich cultural heritage that belies its small population. Over the years it has fostered many of Germany’s great arts figures, including Heinrich Heine, Joseph Beuys, Felix Mendelssohn, and Robert and Clara Schumann. Today Düsseldorf boasts 26 museums and more than 100 galleries, plus its own orchestra, ballet company and opera. You don’t have to spend long in the city centre, wandering through the myriad gardens or along the Rhine to appreciate why Düsseldorf consistently ranks in the top ten of Mercer’s Quality of Living Index.

EAT

VISTAS Situated atop the recently renovated maritime museum, Laterne im Schlossturm commands a spectacular 360° panoramic view of the Rhine and Altstadt. The Schlossturm tower is the last remnant of the historic Düsseldorf Palace that was built in the 13th century and which burned down in 1882. The restaurant offers everything from coffee and cake to fine-dining options.

(Burgplatz 30, +49 211 8997586; rossini-gruppe.de)

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HIGH ACHIEVER Düsseldorf may have a small population but it has lofty ambitions, says Fiona Leonard.

TIME-HONOURED If you judge your restaurants by their illustrious clientele then you definitely need to check out Brauerei zum Schiffchen, the restaurant Napoleon used to frequent when he was in town.

First appearing in city records in 1628, this restaurant and brewery has well and truly established itself as a mainstay of traditional German drinking and dining in the city. (Hafenstrasse 5, +49 211 132 421; brauerei-zum-schiffchen.de)

GET SMART ARRIVALS Düsseldorf prides itself on being a city where everything is 15 minutes away.

You can test it straight off the plane: the ride from the airport train station to Düsseldorf central station will take you, yes, 15 minutes. Download the Rheinbahn app before you go. One-way ticket costs €2.60.

HOT STUFF Looking for a hot desk or meeting space while you’re in town? The newly opened Tribes Düsseldorf Gap offers flexible workplace options targeted at business nomads. From fully equipped conference facilities, to a place to just plug in, Tribes has you covered. (Graf-Adolf-Platz 15, +49 211 976 3280; tribes.world)

CAFFEINATED Bazzar Caffè is one of Düsseldorf’s loved-bylocals hubs. While this is a perfect place to eat (try the Bazzar Breakfast, complete with prosecco), it really is all about the coffee. Choose from one of their many artisanal blends roasted according to the traditional drum process at their dedicated roaster – the Cathedral of Coffee – in nearby Neuss. (Wilhelm Marx House, Heinrich-Heine-Allee 53, +49 211 322 445; bazzar.de)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to DÜSSELDORF up to twice daily.

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Business

GERRIT MEIER

SLEEP

EVERGREEN The Breidenbacher Hof is perfectly situated in Düsseldorf’s fashion district – the Königsallee, a wide boulevard boasting the ubiquitous style industry icons. A stay here promises more than just luxurious accommodation, though, offering private yoga sessions, cocktailmaking classes and other experiential offerings.

Rooms from €364.

(Königsallee 11, +49 211 160 900; capellahotels.com)

CONVIVIAL Located in the heart of Düsseldorf’s Japanese district, Me and All Hotel successfully combines the urban feel of a boutique hotel with a living-room vibe. Excellent customer service plays out in the little touches, such as bikes for loan and co-working spaces. Be sure to check out The Lounge for delicious street food, great music and an amazing city view. Rooms from €84. (Immermannstrasse 23, +49 211 542 590; duesseldorf.meandallhotels.com)

FINERY From the moment you step into the spacious courtyard of this former monastery, through to your tour of the hotel’s internationally renowned private art collection, lovers of fine art and culture will be swept away by the charm of the Derag Living Hotel de Medici. A stone’s throw from the K20 museum and the opera house, this hotel oozes sophistication. Rooms from €162.

(Mühlenstrasse 3, +49 211 160 920; living-hotels.com)

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HUGH JOANNE

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Business

CEO INSIDER…

Lucas Sauberschwarz is managing partner at Venture Idea, a consultancy that focuses on helping large companies remain competitive in a climate of disruptive startups. Born in Düsseldorf, he spent many years working and travelling around Germany before returning home. venture-idea.com

What is it about Düsseldorf that makes it a good fit for Venture Idea?

For me it was an obvious decision.

Most of our clients are mid-sized or large corporations – and many of them are located in Düsseldorf and the surrounding area. I regard Düsseldorf as the “heart” of Germany because you can reach most big German cities by train in less than four hours – Köln even in 30 minutes, Frankfurt in 90 minutes. We also have an office in the startup hotspot Berlin, which is great to connect with the newest trends. But even though Berlin is a good lookout for new business opportunities, the largescale business itself is happening in Düsseldorf.

What are your top places to take clients? At first, we invite clients to our office in the Old Town. It was built in 1652 and is one of the ten oldest, still preserved buildings in Düsseldorf. Thus, if our clients are “lucky”, they might find themselves in pictures taken by tourists who are photographing the building. There is one restaurant I’ve been going to since I was a child – A Tavola

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(11 Wallstrasse, +49 211 132 923; a-tavola.de). My father was working in the city centre and we would often go there for lunch. They have the best pasta in town and typical Italian panache. I was really glad when the Andreas Quartier opened (andreas-quartier.de). It has very cool and elegant restaurants, including Café du Sommelier (34 Mühlenstrasse, +49 211 2409 2140; cafedusommelier.de) and 20° Restobar (Mutter-Ey-Platz, +49 172 890 2320; 20grad.com). For cafés I would have to say Rösterei VIER (12 Marktplatz, +49 211 1714 6031).

They serve the best coffee in town and I regularly spend my mornings there. So, if someone wants to meet me for a coffee, just drop by there!

What’s the one thing in Düsseldorf every visitor should see? A brewery in the Old Town. For me the traditional Düsseldorfer Altbier is the best beer in the world. But it’s not only the beer but also the atmosphere in the old breweries that is so special. Once you stand at one of the tables outside Brauerei im Füchschen (28 Ratinger Strasse, +49 211 137 470; fuechschen.de) or Uerige Hausbrauerai (1 Berger Strasse, +49 2118 6699; uerige.de), you will not be alone for long but rather become part of a whole community.

What’s your favourite pastime in Düsseldorf? Since I was a child I’ve always enjoyed walking along the river Rhine, especially on the Oberkassel side. When the sun is coming down over the city it’s a very special spot.

Top, Lucas Sauberschwarz is a proud Düsseldorfer.

Above left, lovely foliage at Café du Sommelier. Left, make time for a pint in the Old Town and, below, find Rhine and reason along the river.

Fly return to Düsseldorf from Dublin for 9,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough Avios points to fly to where you want to go, you can use the Avios points you have and pay the rest in cash*.

BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES.

What brought you back to Düsseldorf? I have quite a long history with, and love for, the city.

I was born here and have been a Düsseldorfer for most of my life.

What makes us Düsseldorfers proud is that we have been ranked in the top ten most liveable cities for many years. In Düsseldorf you have both a village character and the flair of a big city. This combination plus the river Rhine makes it a perfect fit for me.

Business

I LOVE VISITING …

A DAY IN THE LIFE Gary Redmond is co-founder of BusterBox, a monthly subscription service for dog owners. The Dublin based company dispatches healthy, all-natural treats and fun toys for dogs throughout Ireland and the UK. busterbox.com 6am Every morning I try to get up early and get some exercise; usually I head to the gym.

Most of the time I’m successful but I’d be a liar if I said I managed it every day. What I do not miss is my morning Headspace meditation: it works wonders and helps me get into the right mindset for growing the business. Today we just moved into our new bigger office and warehouse in Dublin 15. The commute is fine, about 25 minutes, passing by Dublin airport.

than 35,000 fans across social media and that’s growing rapidly. We focus a lot of time on producing good quality and relevant content that resonates with our loyal following of dog parents. Our dog-loving audience like to see canine content that makes them laugh or teaches them something new. Plus, everyone loves to send us cute pictures and videos of their dogs with their monthly BusterBox, so that user-generated content is a big bonus.

8.30am Usually, myself and my co-founders (and childhood friends) Liam Brennan and Paul Carrick travel to the office together. In the car we can bounce ideas around, prepare and discuss the goals for the day ahead. I suppose it makes efficient use of time so we can get straight to work once we arrive. Dogs are of course welcome in the BusterBox office so we bring them along most days.

4pm A lot of time is spent trying to source more and more innovative and exciting products for our customers. We provide a fun doggy surprise each month and that means we’re always on the lookout for entertaining and crazy items we can find to deliver to our pupscribers. Evenings are often spent planning our theme for the next month’s box and trying to put it together. We have plenty of willing dog toy testers so that department is covered.

10.30am Running a startup means any of us may have vastly different roles on any given day. Customer support, sales, managing marketing campaigns, even helping with packing and production, it really is all hands on deck sometimes. The one thing we are all clear on is our daily goal – to have grown the business revenue in some way by the end of the day. We believe that sales are the cure to all business problems. We hope to expand the team to five by the end of the year.

2pm We’ve really honed our social media strategy with BusterBox, and we have more

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8pm After a long day I like to unwind with a long walk in the grounds of Malahide Castle.

I normally put my headphones in and listen to an audiobook while I walk. It’s often hard to find time to sit and read in the evenings so listening is fantastic. After that I head home to bed to prepare to do it all again.

BusterBox is one of four winners of the Aer Lingus Start-Up Awards, which celebrates small up-and-coming businesses at Aer Lingus’ home base of Fingal.

TORONTO I spent 18 months in Toronto and absolutely loved it. Amazing. I found it spotlessly clean, very relaxed and a whole lot of fun. A friend and I went in 2015 and made a bunch of new Irish and Canadian mates over there, with whom I still keep in contact today.

BUDAPEST I took a trip there this year and it was wonderful. The buildings are spectacular and the price of things is really quite reasonable. I definitely recommend it; if you do go, don’t miss the thermal baths in the afternoon – they are great for unwinding after a long day of sightseeing, or kick off the shoes and spend the whole day chilling.

BRUSSELS I was there at a conference with Facebook and didn’t quite know what to expect. It was really nice and felt quintessentially European. You always hear about Brussels on the news but it is worth a visit at least once. It was cool seeing the huge European Commission Headquarters.

Business Hotel

SHANNON

SHEEN Find solace, sustenance and zest at Limerick’s intimate Strand Hotel.

B

y the banks of the shimmering Shannon, “The Strand” – as it’s known by locals – is an award-winning four-star hotel with a rejuvenating pool and leisure centre, a comfy pub serving expertly poured pints and mixed drinks, a commendable restaurant and staff whose efficiency is matched only by their hospitality.

The glass-clad building, mirroring its riverside location, comprises rooms that come in a variety of thoughtfully laid-out shapes and sizes, suitable for groups, couples, families big or small, as well as travelling business execs who seek reliable comfort in the heart of Limerick city as much as the greater Shannon region.

After a long day – or a restful night – take time out to regroup and refresh the senses at the onsite Energize health and fitness centre.

Here, water takes prominence with four pools – each with its own focus. The hydrotherapy pool is the only one of its kind in the city:

ideal to ease back pain, rheumatic pain and general lethargy, as much as anxiety or stress, while improving skin tone and one’s general sense of wellbeing. Meanwhile, the 20-metre lane pool is equally suited to post work-out recovery or smashing PBs. Towelled off and suited and booted, dig in at the River restaurant, where executive chef Tom Flavin and his award-winning brigade focus on delivering a provenance-led menu.

Thoughtfully prepared and served simply, dishes exude a sense of place – being both on the Wild Atlantic Way and in the heart of the Golden Vale has some tasty benefits.

For more casual bites, catch up with local al fresco intel/gossip at the Terrace bar and café, where simpler dishes and well-made drinks can be enjoyed alongside some of the best views of Limerick City. Rooms from €149. strandhotellimerick.ie

PARIS Couturier Elsa Schiaparelli once had a glorious apartment at No 22 Rue de Berri in the eighth arrondissement. Now the Hôtel de Berri occupies the same historic footprint and is far removed from your standard global-chain property, with exuberant interiors of leopard print, marble, plush emerald green and largescale Classical sculptures running riot from the lobby and into surprisingly spacious bedrooms. Rooms from €456. marriott.com

VIENNA Academics and expo visitors will find much to appreciate at Roomz Prater, which is beside the historic park of the same name and also the Austrian capital’s University of Economics and Business (including Zaha Hadid’s incredible library). Self-billed as “business-class service at economy rates”, contemporary rooms are fuss-free, ergonomic and eminently comfortable.

Rooms from €94. roomz-hotels.com

3 NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK

HAMBURG Stephen Williams and David Chipperfield Architects have transformed an 1888 state ministry building into something very special.

Guest rooms at Tortue come in small, medium and large (there are suites also), each one elegant and characterful, with tasteful patterned wallpaper and a chilled colour scheme, thanks to the tastemaking interior designer Kate Hume.

Rooms from €153. designhotels.com 118 |

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Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT just naturally ingrained in all Irish people who move abroad.

SMART CITY

4

Tech expert GRÀINNE BARRON is the co-founder and CEO of Viddyad, a cloud-based video creation platform, and splits her time between its HQ in San Francisco and a Dublin office.

1

Share your network Everyone knows how important it is to network but it’s also important to open up and share your network with others. I love playing matchmaker in business and friendships, and making sure others are well connected to the right people where there’s a mutually beneficial reciprocity. And, bottom line, you’ve got to be interested in order to be interesting. I learn by listening to other people’s stories, sharing in their passions and, where possible, learn from their mistakes so I don’t repeat them myself.

2

Think around corners Play scenarios out quickly in your head. Step outside the obvious and ask how does this look, feel, sound, relate from another person’s

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point of view, to get a different perspective. If you hit a wall, step back and think around corners to find an alternative approach – there’s always a way forward. You just have to be open to other options.

At the same time, there’s no silver bullet. People can come into your life, offer advice, talk to you about your situation.

At the end of the day you still have to make that final call.

Trust your instinct and go with your gut.

3

Americans appreciate hard work and effort Americans appreciate the Irish arriving with drive and ambition to do well and will happily help you along the way.

They like our stories and our culture being brought here, and the self-determination the Irish have to succeed. I think this is

Gràinne’s

Read. Listen. Act. Evolve The media and marketing ecosystem is being reconfigured and transformed daily by digital developments. Marketers and CEOs know they need different skills and ways of working to keep up. We operate in such a rapidly evolving environment in which new combinations of technology, experiences and content are replacing traditional advertising.

So, keep up by listening to podcasts, reading books and online content and watching presentations from business leaders. The WSJ Daily Tech News Briefing podcast is my favourite.

5

Superior talent is king The people who migrate to San Francisco generally have a lot of the same qualities: persistence, curiosity, intelligence, diversity. This creates the greatest talent pool in the world, which produces a scenario where employees can generally be left to their own devices with a task and produce brilliant results.

I always look for passion, trust and intelligence.

6

Techies love to queue …

San Franciscans seem to love to “wait in laaayne” for breakfast.

Whether it’s for two hours for brunch on a Saturday, literally for the Instagram opportunities, or for the latest ground coffee from whereever-the-heck, Americans will wait in line. It drives me nuts and I don’t partake.

DESTINATION I fell in love with San Francisco’s higgledy-piggledy crooked streets, which all eventually wind down the hills to the water’s edge, where remnants of the old highway lie in the aquatic graveyard of the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake. This city has seen a lot and yet she still stands on majesty.

EAT Il Casaro is a casual Italian pizzeria in North Beach serving simple Neapolitan pizza. I love this area. It’s unpretentious and fun and you never know where you’re gonna end up, ie the Tupelo bar around the corner, or step back in time (seriously) for a giggle at The Saloon, the oldest bar in SF (with possibly the oldest people and such fun). ilcasaropizzeria.com

STAY Calistoga Spa & Hot Springs is the perfect family, friends or romanticweekend getaway. It’s under two hours’ drive from SF and I love that they have three pools, all with natural hot springs.

Many rooms have their own barbecue area outside, so you can stay in your bikini all weekend – and then hop into the hot tub after dinner. calistogaspa.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.

Wild Atlantic Way In-flight Video Guide TRANSATLANTIC IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT - DESTINATIONS & LIFESTYLE

Top Things to Do & Places to Go, Stay, Eat, Drink & Shop

Coming Soon - Dublin Video Guide!

Do you have a visitor experience to showcase on 5,000 transatlantic seats in 2019?

Contact admin@inflightflix.com

MC

Ashford Castle Mayo

Enibas Jewelry Kinsale

Brown Thomas Galway

Aran Sweaters Aran Islands

Dingle Distillery Dingle

Louis Mulcahy Pottery Dingle

OURLM FI O T PO CE H CPAGEI131

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome On Board 126 Your Comfort and Safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Binge Watching 138 Music & Radio

AERLINGUS.COM |

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Welcome On Board Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight.

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on YouTube.

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. .

Conas atá tú? Ho w are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you.

When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

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Develop the mindset of the future leader

LEADING STRATEGY EXECUTION

MASTERING THE PERFORMANCE MINDSET

15 November 2018

15 November 2018

Contact our programme advisors today! t: Freephone 1800 22 33 88 e: programmeadvisors@imi.ie w: imi.ie

NAVIGATING COMPLEX DECISIONS 19 November 2018

Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Your Comfort and Safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times.

We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network on our A330 aircraft, you must switch off flight mode on your device – once our crew advise it is safe to do so. Follow the simple steps on page 146.

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Are you ready for take-off and landing?

• Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode?

• Is your seatback fully upright?

• Is your armrest down?

• Is your tabletop stowed?

• Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting.

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Photos displayed are from Us&Co Monument, London EC3R 6DP

Us&Co Dublin Private Offices | Co-Working Meeting Rooms | Event Space Opening October 2018 Professional, beautifully designed workspaces in the heart of Dublin’s prime business district of St. Stephens Green.

5 School House Lane East, Dublin 2 +353 (1) 529 4100 info@usandco.com Visit www.usandco.com today.

Your Comfort and Safety

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take-off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

Airbus 33

0-200

For your Safety

Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable:

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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• Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

Fóg ra Sáb háil tea cht Pour vot re Séc urit é Für ihre Sich erh eit Par a su Seg urid ad

Per la vos tra Sicu rezz Säkerh et a om bor d Sikkerh et om bord Sikkerh ed om bord Plea se do

not rem

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

• Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

• Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

• You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

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Airc raft

Historic O’Neill’s

DISCOVER THE INTRIGUING TALE OF IRISH WHISKEY

Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

• Extensive Irish Food Menu and • Largest selection of local Irish Craft Famous Carvery serving only the Beers on draught in Ireland finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers from 12 noon until 11.00pm every night.

• HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan • Traditional Irish Music and Dancers with major international league games 7 nights-a-week - No Charge • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area can’t be beaten for quality and value.

• For the whiskey connoisseur there’s 11 items plus tea/coffee, toast, jam our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a and butter is only €8.95, Pictured fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys below. This special offer is available and malts Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am. a great selection of freshly cooked specials and roasted meats at the Carvery.

Whiskey tasting Guided tours Venue hire Off Iicence & Bar

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

A selection of Irish Roasted and baked meats ready to be carved

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656. www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm / Fri: 8.00am-12.30am / Sat: 8.00am-12.30am / Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm

@irishwhiskeymuseum BOOK NOW! +353 (0) 1 525 0970 WWW.IRISHWHISKEYMUSEUM.IE 119 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2 (OPPOSITE MAIN ENTRANCE OF TRINITY COLLEGE)

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

© 2018 Disney/Pixar

Incredibles 2 Helen is called on to help bring Supers back, while Bob navigates the dayto-day heroics of ‘normal‘ life at home when a new villain hatches a brilliant and dangerous plot that only the Incredibles can overcome together.

Box Office Movies Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight.

Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky.

American Animals

R

114 mins | Crime True story about the audacious heist in US history.

Stars Evan Peters, Barry Keoghan, Blake Jenner IT

EN FR DE

Ocean‘s 8

PG13

Avengers: Infinity War

PG13

Blockers

R

Book Club

PG13

Deadpool 2

R

149 mins | Action The Avengers risk it all in a showdown with Thanos.

Stars Robert Downey Jr, Chris Hemsworth, Mark Ruffalo

102 mins | Comedy Three overprotective parents flip out when they find out about their daughters‘ plans.

Stars Kathryn Newton, John Cena, Leslie Mann

104 mins | Romance Four friends are inspired by a book to hilarious ends. Stars Diane Keaton, Jane Fonda, Candice Bergen

119 mins | Comedy Deadpool brings together a team of fellow mutant rogues. Stars Ryan Reynolds, Josh Brolin, Morena Baccarin

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

On Chesil Beach

R

Rampage

PG13

Ready Player One

PG13

Solo: A Star Wars Story

PG13

110 mins | Crime An all-female crew attempt an impossible heist at the Met Gala. Stars Sandra Bullock, Cate Blanchett, Anne Hathaway

107 mins | Drama A story of newlyweds based on Ian McEwan‘s novel. Stars Saoirse Ronan, Billy Howle, Emily Watson, Samuel West

106 mins | Action Mutated gorilla, wolf and crocodile rampage across America. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Naomie Harris, Malin Akerman

140 mins | Action Virtual reality world OASIS users are challenged by its creator. Stars Tye Sheridan, Olivia Cooke, Ben Mendelsohn

135 mins | Adventure Join Star Wars’ iconic scoundrel in an all-new adventure. Stars Alden Ehrenreich, Woody Harrelson, Emilia Clarke

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

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OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO

Deadpool 2 Foul-mouthed mutant mercenary Wade Wilson (AKA Deadpool), brings together a team of fellow mutant rogues to protect a young boy of supernatural abilities from the brutal, time-travelling mutant, Cable.

I Feel Pretty

PG13

Isle of Dogs

PG13

109 mins | Comedy An insecure woman wakes from a fall gaining new confidence. Stars Amy Schumer, Michelle Williams, Emily Ratajkowski

101 mins | Animation Isle of Dogs follows a boy‘s search for his dog, Spots.

Voiced by Bryan Cranston, Koyu Rankin, Edward Norton

EN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Tag

R

Tomb Raider

PG13

Jurassic World: Fallen Kingdom

PG13

Life of the Party

PG13

Love, Simon

PG13

128 mins | Adventure A couple rescue the dinosaurs from a volcano eruption. Stars Chris Pratt, Bryce Dallas Howard

105 mins | Comedy A divorced mother returns to college to complete her degree. Stars Melissa McCarthy, Debby Ryan, Gillian Jacobs

109 mins | Romance Simon must face everyone and come to terms with his identity. Stars Nick Robinson, Jennifer Garner, Josh Duhamel

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Hotel Transylvania PG 3: Summer Vacation

Incredibles 2

Tully

R

PG

100 mins | Comedy How far some guys will go to be the last man standing.

Stars Jeremy Renner, Isla Fisher, Ed Helms, Jake Johnson

118 mins | Action Lara Croft discovers the island where her father disappeared. Stars Alicia Vikander, Dominic West, Walton Goggins

92 mins | Drama Marlo comes to form a unique bond with a young nanny. Stars Charlize Theron, Mackenzie Davis, Mark Duplass

97 mins | KidZone Drac falls for the mysterious captain of the ship, Ericka.

Voiced by Adam Sandler, Andy Samberg, Selena Gomez

118 mins | KidZone Helen battles a new villain while Bob takes on life at home. Voiced by Craig T Nelson, Holly Hunter, Samuel L Jackson

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |

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Movie Classics

A selection of classic movies is available on board today along with some popular movies starring Matt Damon such as Good Will Hunting, Green Zone, Hereafter and The Martian. Plus don‘t forget to check out some of our new and award-winning Irish shorts and features too!

A E R L I N G U S TA K E O F F F O U N DAT I O N

About Time R 119 mins | Stars Domhnall Gleeson, Rachel McAdams, Bill Nighy

Begin Again 104 mins | Stars Keira Knightley, Mark Ruffalo, Adam Levine

Good Will R Hunting 127 mins | Stars Robin Williams, Matt Damon, Ben Affleck

Green Zone R 115 mins | Stars Matt Damon, Jason Isaacs, Greg Kinnear

Groundhog PG Day 101 mins | Stars Bill Murray, Andie MacDowell

EN

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Hairspray PG 116 mins | Stars John Travolta, Queen Latifah, Nikki Blonsky

Harry Potter PG and the Prisoner of Azkaban

PG13 Hereafter 126 mins | Stars Matt Damon, Bryce Dallas Howard

Hidden Figures PG 127 mins | Stars Octavia Spencer, Janelle Monáe

Hot Fuzz 121 mins | Stars Simon Pegg, Nick Frost

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

R

142 mins | Stars Daniel Radcliffe

We are delighted to offer award winning short films from the Aer Lingus Irish Filmmaker Competition; Goodbye, Darling

by Maria Elena Doyle, The Lost Letter by Brian Willis and Leap of Faith produced by Jonathan Farrelly and directed by Mark Smyth. Also available is The Secret Market by Garrett Daly and Martina McGlynn.

R

Goodbye, Darling

PG13

13 mins | Drama A love story of an Irish Volunteer in the 1916 Rising.

Stars Aoibhinn McGinnity EN

Independence PG13 Day: Resurgence 116 mins | Stars Liam Hemsworth

Invictus PG13 129 mins | Stars Morgan Freeman, Matt Damon

Lethal R Weapon 3 117 mins | Stars Mel Gibson, Danny Glover

Lethal R Weapon 4 117 mins | Stars Mel Gibson, Danny Glover

Midnight PG13 in Paris 94 mins | Stars Rachel McAdams

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

Leap of Faith

14 mins | Drama Kelly is captivated by her new neighbour. Stars Leah Egan EN

Music PG13 and Lyrics 104 mins | Stars Hugh Grant, Drew Barrymore

Tango & Cash R 104 mins | Stars Sylvester Stallone, Kurt Russell, Teri Hatcher

The Lord of PG13 the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring

The Lucky One PG13 98 mins | Stars Zac Efron, Taylor Schilling

The Martian PG13 141 mins | Stars Matt Damon, Jessica Chastain, Kristen Wiig

8 mins | Animation A boy tries to spread Christmas cheer. Voiced by Kate Winslet EN

179 mins | Stars Elijah Wood, Cate Blanchett

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

The Nice Guys R 114 mins | Stars Russell Crowe, Ryan Gosling, Angourie Rice

The Time PG13 Traveler‘s Wife 106 mins | Stars Rachel McAdams, Eric Bana

The Wedding PG13 Singer 97 mins | Stars Drew Barrymore, Adam Sandler

Walk the Line PG13 136 mins | Stars Joaquin Phoenix, Reese Witherspoon

We‘re the Millers 110 mins | Stars Jason Sudeikis, Jennifer Aniston

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES

The Lost Letter

PG

The Secret Market R

PG13

23 mins | Drama A surgeon‘s past life haunts her.

Stars Victoria Smurfit EN

I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S

Ancient PG13 Lights 9 mins | Stars Declan Rooney, Joe Mullins

Churchtown PG13 Stores 6 mins | Documentary

Citizen G Lane 80 mins | Stars Tom VaughanLawlor, Michael Gambon

Lost & PG13 Found 92 mins | Stars Liam O Mochain, Norma Sheahan, Brendan Conroy

Mr Eckles PG13 7 mins | Stars Sean Flood, Thomas Leggett, Jemma Nic Lochlainn

Smithy PG13 & Dickie 10 mins | Stars Toni O‘Rourke, Killian Coyle

Stocking PG13 the Shelves 25 mins | Documentary

The PG13 American Wake 15 mins | Stars Emer Sexton, Gerry Grimes

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

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DERMATOLOGY RECOMMENDED SKINCARE AVAILABLE IN THE USA AND EUROPE

www.reformskincare.com

handcrafted jewellery collection in sterling silver & 14k gold each piece is engraved with 12 symbols that represent some of the most historical eras in irish history.

Available at all leading Jewellery & Gift Stores.

For more information visit: www.historyoďŹ reland.ie CRAFTED BY

REAL LIFE

TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.

Peep Show Peep Show is the story of two housemates Mark and Jeremy, and how they cope with everyday life in hilarious fashion, their inner thoughts revealed to the viewer through voiceovers.

The eighth series begins with Mark waiting for Jeremy to move out. On board is Series 8, Episodes 1 and 2.

BUSINESS

L AU G H O U T L O U D

Baskets A man pursues his dream to become a professional clown Bob‘s Burgers A family of five runs their dream restaurant together Bridget & Eamon A typical unhappily married 80s Irish couple Father Ted Sitcom about 3 priests who live on Craggy Island, Ireland Fresh Off the Boat A Taiwanese family makes their way in America Ghosted A team of a tough ex-cop and a nerdy superstitious scientist Last Man Standing A man‘s life in a women-dominated world Modern Family Three families face trials and tribulations Mom A newly sober single mom lives with her wayward mother New Girl An offbeat young woman moves in with three single men Powerless Emily starts working in a very unusual insurance company 134 |

SPORT

L E A R N & D I S C OV E R

A Conversation with Justin Trudeau Canadian Prime Minister speaks with Bloomberg Best of Bloomberg Technology Interviews and technology news Bloomberg Studio 1.0: Drew Faust First female president of Harvard Hello World A tech-travel show Leaders with Lacqua: Ivan Menezes CEO of Diageo The David Rubenstein Show: Peer to Peer Conversations – Tim Cook Apple CEO Tim Cook

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Brain Games 4 Interactive experiments mess with your mind Cities of the Underworld Pagan burial tombs and an underground river of Dublin Cook, Eat, Burn Healthy food designed for an active lifestyle Dermot Bannon‘s US Homes: New York A penthouse in TriBeCa Dermot's Secret Garden 19th century garden near Slieve Bloom Find Me a Home House hunting in a tough property market of Ireland Food Markets Mercado da Ribeira is Lisbon’s oldest marketplace Rare Breed Farmers‘ challenges throughout the year Tracks & Trails Glorious walk at Benbulben/Streedagh, County Sligo Travel Man A whirlwind tour of Budapest in just 48 hours

1916: The Irish Rebellion The Easter Rising and Irish independence America‘s National Parks Yosemite National Park is home to the bobcat Architectures Featuring the La Santé Prison in Paris Mega Mechanics Australia’s best mechanics tackle huge machines Meghan Markle: How To Be Royal From actress to princess My Year with the Tribe Will Millard visits the Korowai in West Papua Return of the Eagles Bringing wild birds of prey back to Ireland Secret Sights Ancient Celtic sites and lives of our ancestors The Lowe Files Rob and sons prove and disprove the great legends What Men Wear Definition of men‘s style today by fashion expert

Clubland Club profile on Bayern Munich, Real Madrid‘s Ultimate XI Dream Teams Selecting the ‘ultimate‘ basketball teams Fight Stars The best combat sport stars in the ring National Icons The biggest names in tennis take on the greatest legends Perfection The most inspirational moments in the history of sport The Immortals Lionel Messi, Ferenc Puskas and Ruud Gullit NEWS & EVENTS

In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

VIR AL

90s Sleepover The guys of Boat Comedy are having a sleepover Above Average Music Videos A selection of hilarious music videos Above Average Presents A bright light on universally relatable topics Big Thick Ideas A parody of YouTube explainer videos St Peter Meets Famous villains bargain their way into heaven Storytime Comedians tell their personal stories WELLBEING

Chasing Longevity How can we live longer and age better?

Get Fit! Get fit with these bitesize health and fitness tutorials My Zen Trendy Exquisite foods, lifestyle activities and well-being Relax California Style A relaxation to put you into a peaceful state The Dose with Dr Billy How to improve the quality of your sleep The Healthy Food Guide Is it smart to go sugar-free?

K I DZ O N E

Austin & Ally The gang shares an emotional reunion in Miami Giving Tales Classic fairy tales

by Hans Christian Anderson LEGO Star Wars: The Freemaker Adventures Rowan meets a Jedi Marvel‘s Avengers Assemble Hulk and Thor are tricked into a battle Scooby-Doo! Mystery Incorporated The gang is terrorised The Adventures of Tintin Tintin investigates a strange meteor The Day Henry Met? Every day Henry meets something new

Episodes Matt LeBlanc plays a fictionalised version of himself in this comedy-drama that sees screenwriter couple Sean and Beverly travel to Hollywood to remake their British TV series starring Matt. On board is Series 5, Episodes 1 and 2.

MUSIC & ARTS

Close Up We get a close up on Sylvester Stallone Dónal Lunny – Linte Ceoil Cheiltigh Epic journey from the Celtic Songlines to Donegal The Biggest Weekend Performances from Rita Ora, Niall Horan and George Ezra The Rap Game Young artists are tested on their foundation We Speak Dance Explore how dance connects people and places Your Street My Stage – Outstanding Street Performers Dario entertains crowds of Berlin with his dance music

The Big Bang Theory The hit comedy follows awkward scientific geniuses and their apartment neighbour, a Cheesecake Factory waitress with much sharper social skills.

With her help they learn what life outside the laboratory has to offer. Being the longest running multi-camera sitcom in the history of television The Big Bang Theory offers Season 11 where the gang tackle marriage, parenthood and string theory. On board is Series 11, Episodes 6 to 10.

Give the gift that everyone will love.

Perfect presents of luxury from Cliff House Hotel, Cliff Townhouse or Cliff at Lyons.

Select a gift voucher from our wide array of experiences and packages or visit The Pantry at CLIFF stores to view our beautiful collection of gifts and food items.

Both vouchers and Pantry at CLIFF gift collections are available online and from our three hotels.

THE SPA LOVER

THE ESCAPIST

www.cliffhome.ie

THE FOODIE

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Binge Watching Choose from a broad selection of boxsets to watch on board from the aristocratic period drama Downton Abbey to the corporate world of Suits.

Delve into the hugely popular Big Little Lies and Peaky Blinders or the quirky drama Fargo. Also on board are Riverdale, Arrow, Get Shorty and The Walking Dead.

Arrow Season 6

Big Little Lies Season 1

Big Little Lies weaves a darkly comedic tale of murder and mischief in the tranquil beach front town of Monterey, California. Told through the eyes of three mothers – the series‘ narrative explores society‘s myths regarding perfection and its romanticisation of marriage, sex, parenting and friendship.

R

Billionaire playboy Oliver Queen returns home to Star City after disappearing for five years, but his crime-fighting team is threatened by unexpected enemies, forcing Oliver to rethink his relationship with each member of his ‘family‘.

Downton Abbey Season 4 PG13

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Peaky Blinders Season 1 & 2 R An epic gangster drama set in the lawless streets of post-war Birmingham on the cusp of the 1920s. The story centres on a street gang led by the fierce Tommy Shelby (Cillian Murphy).

Riverdale Season 1 & 2

R

The Crawley family is embroiled in intrigue and potential scandal. Lady Mary is in mourning and pays no heed to the two new suitors while Lady Edith fairs no better as her own love-life takes a tragic turn.

Riverdale follows Archie Andrews’ life in the small town of Riverdale and explores the darkness hidden behind its seemingly perfect image. Amidst all the small-town banality lurks a mystery: the recent tragic death of Jason Blossom.

Fargo Season 3

Suits Season 7

R

PG13

The third season centres on Emmit and his younger brother Ray (both played by Ewan McGregor). Their sibling rivalry follows a twisted path that begins with petty theft but soon leads to murder and mobsters.

The future of top Manhattan law firm is threatened by its past. Meanwhile, engaged Rachel (Meghan Markle) and Mike (Patrick J Adams) contemplate whether they should prioritise their relationship over the firm for once.

Get Shorty Season 1

The Walking Dead Season 7 R

R

Dark comedy series inspired by the best-selling Elmore Leonard‘s novel. Get Shorty follows Miles Daly (Chris O‘Dowd), the muscle for a Nevada crime ring who attempts to become a movie producer in Hollywood.

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R

Weeks and months after the apocalypse, Rick‘s world becomes even more brutal due to Negan‘s deadly rules. Will the three communities come together and take on Negan‘s army in an all-out war?

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Music & Radio

Powerhouse vocalist Christina Aguilera gets back to her soul roots and conveys the desire of finding innocence in the dynamic Liberation, which features star-studded collaborations with Anderson .Paak, Kanye West and MNEK among others. Released singles on this 15-track record include the attention-grabbing Accelerate and the empowerment anthem Fall in Line.

Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

Vespertine Ellen Cranitch, RTÉ lyric fm The Full Score with Liz Nolan RTÉ lyric fm EASY LISTENING

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels

POP

Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs RTÉ Gold Digital Radio Micky Mac‘s Dance Show, RTÉ Gold The Eoghan McDermott Show, RTÉ 2FM The Fix in the Mix with Brian Maher 98FM Ronan Collins RTÉ Radio 1 ROCK

INDIE

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM IRISH

Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E

The Cosy Corner on RTÉ Junior RTÉ Junior

Marty Miller Radio Nova TA L K

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One Two documentaries are on offer from RTÉ Radio 1‘s multi award winning Documentary On One. The first is on the choices three generations of women in an Irish family have made, and the second on Joyce, a woman who by her own admission is only living a ‘half life‘.

PODCAST

Podcast: Erin‘s Isle Ken and Carmel Galway Cathedral and Michael Vignoles Dangan Butter and King John Music at the Gate

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RTÉ Lyric fm – The Full Score with Liz Nolan Liz Nolan presents a showcase of unabridged musical masterworks, featuring live recordings of Irish and international performers, plus selections from the latest CD releases.

Podcast: Erin‘s Isle Featuring five new podcasts about different parts of Ireland.

Learn what it takes to buy and restore a castle and what it was like to grow up in Ireland 90 years ago. Explore Galway‘s Dangan forest, which houses a communications museum, garden nursery and (apparently) fairies, and learn about a barnstorming music session that runs every month at St Laurence‘s Gate, Drogheda.

We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!

The Carters

Celtic Woman The Irish superstars honour their heritage in a concert on their home-turf in the 3Arena, Dublin, Ireland. The four ladies, Máiréad Carlin, Susan McFadden, Éabha McMahon and instrumentalist Tara McNeill, return to their Irish roots and bring songs that may be forgotten back to life. Celtic Woman: Homecoming – Live from Ireland is brimful of classics such as Danny Boy.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

Carole King Her Greatest Hits (Songs From Long Ago) Daryl Hall & John Oates The Essential Collection Earth, Wind & Fire That’s the Way of the World John Denver The Essential John Denver Mariah Carey Music Box Simon & Garfunkel Bridge Over Troubled Water

COUNTRY

Jason Aldean Rearview Town Mitchell Tenpenny Mitchell Tenpenny Scotty McCreery Seasons Change Tenille Townes Living Room Worktapes Rachel Wammack Rachel Wammack Walker Hayes Boom

JA Z Z

A surprise joint release from entertainment‘s most megawatt power couple, Jay-Z and Beyoncé, EVERYTHING IS LOVE explores the trials and tribulations of relationships, notions of legacy and their standing within the black community.

Here the duo use the creative process as a form of couples therapy, much to the fascination of fans.

Bill Frisell Music IS Herbie Hancock The Best of Herbie Hancock: The Hits!

Regina Carter Ella: Accentuate the Positive Silje Nergaard For You a Thousand Times Sly & Robbie Nordub Till Brönner & Dieter Ilg Duo Nightfall M E TA L

A LT E R N AT I V E

Lo Moon Lo Moon Moon Taxi Let The Record Play MGMT Little Dark Age The Lone Bellow Walk Into a Storm The Neighbourhood The Neighbourhood Tomi What Kind of Love CL ASSIC AL

Adam Laloum Brahms: Piano Concertos Christian-Pierre La Marca, Lise de la Salle Paris-Moscou Jan Vogler, Mira Wang Brahms, Rihm, Harbison: Double Concertos Lucas Debargue Schubert, Szymanowski Nils Mönkemeyer Baroque Nuria Rial Vocalise

ELEC TRO

DVBBS Blood of My Blood Groove Armada Groove Armada Greatest Hits Kygo Kids in Love Lost Frequencies Less is More Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Sick Boy IR ISH

Celtic Thunder Inspirational Celtic Woman Homecoming: Live from Dublin Christy Moore On the Road The Script Acoustic Sessions The Script The Script Van Morrison You‘re Driving Me Crazy

Arch Enemy Will to Power At The Gates To Drink from the Night Itself Judas Priest Firepower Motörhead The Very Best of Ozzy Osbourne No More Tears Papa Roach Crooked Teeth OPER A

Anita Rachvelishvili Anita Christian Gerhaher Romantische Arien Jonas Kaufmann L‘Opéra Nuria Rial, Maurice Steger Baroque Twitter Pretty Yende Dreams Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets

P OP

Christina Aguilera Liberation Delta Goodrem I Honestly Love You George Ezra Staying At Tamara‘s Matt Cardle Time to Be Alive Prettymuch Prettymuch Tove Styrke Sway

ROCK

Dreamcar Dreamcar Jimi Hendrix Both Sides of the Sky Manic Street Preachers Resistance Is Futile Nothing But Thieves Broken Machine The Vaccines Combat Sports Three Days Grace Outsider K I DZ O N E

RNB

Chloe x Halle The Kids Are Alright H.E.R. H.E.R. Leon Bridges Good Thing Moss Kena Found You in 06 Ro James Smoke The Carters Everything is Love

Archie Campbell Kids, I Love ‘Em! Judson Mancebo Babies Love Queen Kenny Loggins More Songs From Pooh Corner Nicolette Larson Sleep, Baby Sleep Various Artists DreamWorks Trolls – The Beat Goes On! Various Artists The Wacky World of Mother Goose AERLINGUS.COM |

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Where are you flying to?

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens.

Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have.

Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Passport Control and Security Screening

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Geataí Gates

101-335

Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Departure Gate

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow

401-426

Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Flight Connections for North American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland.

Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.

Try our Limited Edition Powers “The Long Hall” Single Cask Release.

Cask No.11791 was bottled especially for us to mark our 250th Anniversary.

OPEN DAILY AT 12 NOON 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590

Our European and North American Route Network

Anchorage Juneau

Ketchikan

Edmonton

Vancouver

Bellingham

Victoria

Seattle Portland

Saskatoon

Eugene

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Bellingham

Victoria

Wenatchee

Seattle

Spokane Pullman

Pasco Yakima

Thunder Bay

Kalispell Great Falls

Walla Walla

Portland Redmond Eugene

Missoula

Belgrade

San Jose

Traverse

Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Denver

Reno

Kansas City

Oakland

Fort Wayne Chicago

Springfield Las Vegas

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Oklahoma City

Tucson

Providence

Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia

Greensboro

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

El Paso Houston

Halifax

Portland ME

Washington (National)

Knoxville

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Austin

Newark

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore

Lexington

Memphis

Albany

Hartford

Washington (Dulles)

Little Rock Phoenix

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Moncton Fredericton

Burlington Syracuse

Cincinnati

Nashville

Tulsa

Akron Canton

Dayton

Indianapolis Louisville

Wichita

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

St Louis

San Francisco Fresno

Des Moines

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Cedar Rapids Omaha

Montreal

Ottawa

Minneapolis–St Paul

Salt Lake City

Santa Rosa

Duluth

Billings

Medford

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

San Antonio

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

Honolulu Honolulu Kahului Kahului

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to thirteen US destinations, or two destinations in Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines. You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Preclearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Route map correct at time of print.

Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg

Amsterdam London London City London Southend Heathrow

Southampton

Berlin

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid

Alicante Murcia Malaga Faro

Tenerife

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Lanzarote TenerifeGran Canaria

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your tablet, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Athens Catania

Izmir

Our Middle East and Australasia Route Network You can book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East and Australia via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Staying connected on board*

Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.

THE SMARICTE CHO

Aer Social

Aer Max

€6.95

€13.95

€29.95

UP TO 50MB

UP TO 120MB

UP TO 250MB

$7.95

Mobile Network on board

With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**.

Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

1 Switch on

$15.95

$32.95

Wi-Fi on board in six steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode.

Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Aeromobile

2 Connect

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

3 Welcome SMS

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

International roaming rates apply.

4 Connected

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 146 |

Aer Surf

| AERLINGUS.COM

3 Purchase Internet Access

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.

AerClub is our way of recognising and rewarding our regular flyers. When you fly with Aer Lingus you collect Tier Credits and Avios. Find out ways to make the most of your membership.

Unlocking the benefits of AerClub The more you fly, the more Tier Credits you earn, the higher up the tiers you move whilst unlocking even greater benefits. You can also collect Avios with Aer Lingus and our airline, retail and travel partners.

How can I spend my Avios?

You can spend your Avios on reward flights with Aer Lingus and AerClub partner airlines, as well as on hotel stays, car hire and travel experiences such as city tours, helicopter rides, hot air ballooning and lots more.

Get the details right!

In order to get all the benefits to which you are entitled, ensure that your profile name (first name, last name) matches your passport name exactly. If this needs to be updated, contact AerClub via the Aer Lingus website and provide a copy of your passport as proof of ID. To update your email and postal addresses, log into your AerClub profile from your desktop and amend in the ‘My Details’ section.

AerClub Tier Benefits

Spend Avios on flights Earn Tier Credits on Aer Lingus flights Exclusive AerClub member reward offers Tier Bonus on collecting Avios Priority check-in Fast track Priority boarding Lounge access for the card holder Partner airline lounge access*

• Check out our short videos about AerClub at aerlingus.com/aerclub.

Guaranteed seat on full flight†

Enjoy your flight and happy collecting! aerlingus.com/aerclub

PLATINUM

Collect Avios with our retail, travel and leisure partners

Lounge access for a guest

• Sign up for AerClub mailings in the ‘My Details’ section of your profile to hear about competitions, events and offers.

SILVER

Collect Avios every time you fly

How do I check my balance?

Avios and Tier Credit balances can be viewed in the ‘My AerClub’ section while logged into your AerClub profile. Remember to add your AerClub number to all your Aer Lingus and AerClub partner airline bookings to unlock your travel benefits. To learn more about how to make the most of your membership:

• Download the Aer Lingus and Avios apps.

GREEN

Priority wait list Complimentary upgrade** Designated help desk Companion ticket**

Free Wi-Fi on long haul Waive change and cancellation fees for all bookings‡ Complimentary membership Travel earlier than scheduled

* Where available. ** Subject to availability. † If a flight is fully booked we will guarantee you a confirmed reservation on the flight.

Benefit only applies to Economy Class and must be booked 24 hours in advance.

Only two Concierge members can avail of this benefit on any particular flight. ‡ Change or cancel your flight without incurring any change fees or refund administration fees. This benefit covers change fees only and any fare difference must be paid.

CONCIERGE

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TOP PICKS Our selection of serums, moisturisers and makeup from this season's Boutique magazine.

ESTÉE LAUDER ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR EYE CONCENTRATE Restore, renew and refresh tired eyes with this ultra-nourishing concentrate.

NIP + FAB LIP CONTOUR KIT A selection of three matte lipsticks in a range of nude colours.

PERRICONE MD NO FOUNDATION FOUNDATION Skin corrector with SPF30 protection that leaves skin feeling dewy and hydrated.

BENEFIT WORLD O' BLUSHES Four hugely popular products combined in one compact, to offer offer variety for all occasions.

AERLINGUS.COM |

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SHORT STORY | CECELIA AHERN

The Woman Who

ROARED Cecelia Ahern is best-known as a novelist, but this season she debuts Roar, her first anthology of short stories. Here is one of them.

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he works in housekeeping in a five-star luxury hotel. Her supervisor has halitosis. She has a nine-month-old baby girl at home who is being cared for by her grandmother. Her mother relies too much on alcohol to get her through the days.

She steps into the storeroom cupboard and moves Her mother is also the funniest person she knows and a box of hotel shampoo bottles to the side, revealing makes her laugh louder than anybody else ever could. a secret key panel. She types in the secret code: her Just out of school, she likes the freedom of going to school locker combination. work, doing something for This is followed by an herself. She loves the feeling “She sometimes takes the hotel audible click and the shelving of returning home, seeing chocolates that guests leave containing the white fluffy the gummy smile and the towels slides open revealing chubby hands that reach out behind and places them on a small room. It smells of to her. fresh linen, a summer breeze, There is a guy who works her mother’s pillow, turning just-washed smell. She takes in the butcher shop opposite down her bed covers.” her shoes off and steps inside. her flat that she can’t stop The ground is soft cotton, thinking about. She can see the walls are draped in it too. Behind the draping is him from her bedroom window. She can’t wipe the silly soundproofing. smile off her face every time she thinks of him. Her Once the wall of towels closes behind her, encasing baby girl is the same when she sees him. A sure sign. her in a lilac glow and the scent of lavender, she breathes She has eaten more meat this month than ever before. in and out slowly.

She has three more rooms on the floor to clean and She opens her mouth. And roars. then she is finished. She sometimes takes the hotel chocolates that guests leave behind and places them on Roar (HarperCollins, €12.99) is out her mother’s pillow, turning down her bed covers. Her in Ireland on October 25, in the UK mother loves it. on November 1 and the US in April She has two secrets. Nobody knows who the father 2019. Roar is being adapted into a TV of her baby is. And this. series by Netflix’s GLOW co-creators Liz Flahive and Carly Mensch and coproduced with Nicole Kidman and Per Saari’s Blossom Films and Ahern’s own Greenlight Go Productions.

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| AERLINGUS.COM

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