September 2017
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
DUBLIN • ANDALUCÍA • MIAMI • MUNICH • ROME
Welcome to Ireland from AIB Corporate Banking
Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248
Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219
AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland. To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.
Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.
CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2017
CHECK IN
6 WELCOME Aer Lingus news
10 ARRIVALS Camera at the ready, we greet the newbies at Dublin’s T2 13 CHECK IN Your September guide to all things good, tasty, swanky and fun 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s pick of this season’s literary crop
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30 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Composer Jonathan Nangle’s standout trips 32 5 GOOD REASONS London’s calling for Eoin Higgins
Miami Bites
34 WEEKENDER Lucy White gets lost in her Prague apartment 36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO PARIS Vanessa Grall takes us off the beaten track 38 NEW BEGINNINGS Georgina McNamara’s IMMRAMA-winning short story
FEATURES
42 THE LINE OF BEAUTY Gemma Tipton visits artist Dorothy Cross in Connemara
48 IRELAND’S GLOBAL CALL Clíona Foley meets the movers and shakers behind Ireland’s 2023 Rugby World Cup Bid 56 7/11 HEAVEN Eoin Higgins uncovers Dublin’s northside renaissance 66 THE JOY RIDE Lucy White horses around in Andalucía 82 MIAMI MAGIC Amanda Kavanagh eschews partying for feasting 92 FROM PILLARS TO PROST Nicholas Grundy shoots Munich, the original Oktoberfest city
56 Dublin Delights
48
Irish Rugby Rising
REGULARS
76 YOU SAY, WE SAY Patrick Hanlon and Russell Alford’s global food market spree
102 5 BEST SEASIDE RETREATS Yvonne Gordon’s coastal havens 106 48 HOURS IN FRANKFURT Ed Finn’s “Mainhattan” lowdown 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME The moment when opera singer Paul McNamara found himself singing in Venice
66
Spain’s Easy Riders
BUSINESS
109 BUSINESS & LIFE When in Rome ... follow Roisin Agnew’s handy tips 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Sigmar Recruitment’s Robert Mac Giolla Phádraig 118 TREATFUL SLEEPS Mel Mullan scopes out Hamburg’s Sir Nikolai hotel, and spotlights newbies in Toronto, Barcelona and London 120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Voxpro’s Dan Kiely talks excellence, ethics – and the joys of an office above a pub
Alaïa Balenciaga Céline Chanel Chloé Christian Louboutin Dolce & Gabbana Erdem Fendi Givenchy Gucci Hermès Louis Vuitton Prada Saint Laurent Paris Tom Ford Valentino Victoria Beckham
DUBLIN CORK LIMERICK GALWAY
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CARA Magazine September 2017
WELCOME ABOARD Summer may be coming to a close, but we’re ramping up our winter schedule to ensure that guests have more getaway choices. elcome on board, and thank you for choosing to fly with us today. The busy summer season might just be behind us but September is an exciting month filled with lots of great possibilities. While July and August are traditionally the busiest months to jet off, winter is certainly gathering pace and this year we will operate our largest ever schedule, boasting 300,000 additional seats to Europe and North America. Having just begun our new service to Miami, we are delighted to announce that this will continue as a new long-haul route for winter; similarly, what was once a summer route to Bilbao now runs during peak winter months. We continue to focus on expanding our long-haul network this winter with 350 additional transatlantic flights from Ireland to North America. The Aer Lingus Dublin gateway continues to be the fastest, cheapest and least-hassle way to visit North America and is now the yearround choice for North Atlantic travellers whether they are travelling for business or leisure. We have grown our Dublin to Toronto service significantly, with four flights per week on a larger Airbus A330 aircraft. On the US west coast we will operate daily services to San Francisco and a five times weekly service to Los Angeles during peak winter months. On the east coast our Dublin to Washington service will become daily during peak
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months, while we’ll also cater for eager Christmas shoppers with services from Dublin and Shannon to JFK, offering up to four daily flights from Ireland to New York, in addition to our daily Dublin-Newark service. Our European network will also enjoy significant expansion this winter with increased capacity to key European cities such as Hamburg, operating up to 10 flights per week, double the frequency of last year, as well as Zurich, also operating 10 services per week. Winter sun continues to be a top priority with 190,000 seats to the Canary Islands up for grabs. In addition, popular destinations in France will enjoy greater frequency with Aer Lingus operating a four times weekly service to Bordeaux and seven flights per week to Lyon. So if you’re planning a winter getaway be sure to check out aerlingus.com for some great September deals. What would really warm our cockles this winter, though, would be news of a home win for Ireland. As the official airline of the Irish Rugby team, Aer Lingus is right behind the Irish Ruby Football Union’s bid to host the 2023 Rugby World Cup on the Emerald Isle. Like no other, the Irish as a nation, receive worldwide recognition for the warm welcome offered to its millions of visitors each year, and 2023 holds great promise to really put Ireland front and centre on the world sporting stage.
RIGHT ON TIME It’s official – Aer Lingus is delighted to be the most punctual airline flying to/from Gatwick according to Civil Aviation Authority figures.
HAPPY WINTER We all face the post-summer holiday blues – but there is no better way to beat those blues than to plan your next getaway. Enjoy some great September offers at aerlingus.com.
Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus
MIAMI & MORE We’re now proudly flying from Dublin to Miami – one of 11 direct routes from Ireland to the States, with more than 100 onward connections across the US and Canada. 6 |
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LONDON 31 Monmouth St. Covent Garden • 207 Kings Road | NEW YORK 372 Bleecker St
www.orlakiely.com Promotion Code: AER LINGUS 10 % Introductory discount
EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Roisin Agnew, Russell Alford, Graham Corcoran, Ed Finn, Vanessa Grall, Yvonne Gordon, Nicholas Grundy, Patrick Hanlon, Al Higgins, Bridget Hourican, Ingmar Kiang, Doreen Kilfeather, Fuchsia MacAree, Nathalie Marquez Courtney, Georgina McNamara, Gemma Tipton, Anthony Woods
CONTRIBUTORS CLÍONA FOLEY is a Kildare-based sportswriter who has covered everything from All-Ireland finals to the Olympic Games, and also presents Newstalk’s women in sport podcast @OffTheBenchNT. Happiest on skis and horseback, on mountains and in the sea, she’s delighted that the Wild Atlantic Way and cycling Greenways are harnessing Ireland’s great potential for activity holidays. For her Cara debut, she met some of the key people behind Ireland’s bid to host the 2023 Rugby World Cup – meet them on page 48.
ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Robert Power Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Sam Power, Raymond Reihill, Gina Traynor
PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Catra magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.
EAMONN FA
ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie
RRELL
ART Art Director Niamh Richardson Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan
PETER DONNELLY is a Dublin based illustrator, his work used extensively throughout advertising, branding and children’s books. In October 2017, Irish publisher Gill will release his debut picture book The President’s Glasses, a witty and stylish celebration of Dublin, the president and one very determined pigeon. His cover for Cara was inspired by Ireland’s power in world rugby and the potential the country holds to host the 2023 World Cup.
CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent MD Christina da Silva Commercial Director Justine Daly Creative Director Stuart Purcell Editorial Director Maureen Rice Finance Director Jane Moffett Strategy & Business Director Ann Hartland
IMAGE PUBLICATIONS LTD
PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016
RAPHY KATIE KAV PHOTOG
+44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK
AMANDA KAVANAGH is a writer and editor based in Dublin. As editor of Image Interiors & Living magazine, she’s attuned to finding the most beautiful spaces with the best food and most tempting tipples. Her career started out in teen mags before moving into advertising, and back into journalism. For Amanda’s first feature for Cara, she travelled to Miami with photographer (and neighbour) Al Higgins – see page 82 – seeking out the city’s best Latin American food haunts, one sip and sample at a time.
Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.
September 2017
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
ON THE COVER Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie
DUBLIN • ANDALUCÍA • MIAMI • MUNICH • ROME
Brave New World – an exclusive illustration by Peter Donnelly.
Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine
WHO? Marie and Benny Wall FLYING IN FROM ... Newquay MARIE SAYS ... “We were on holidays in Cornwall for the week. It rained four of the days that we were there! We still love it though, and visit a lot.”
WHO? Kelsey, Cohen and Luke Carrig FLYING IN FROM ... Chicago LUKE SAYS ... “I’m originally from Ireland but we live in the States. This is Cohen’s first time in Ireland – he’s eight months now. We’re heading home to Greystones.”
ARRIVALS
Tattoo conventions and family roots brought visitors through Dublin’s busy Terminal 2 – Cara was there to welcome them all.
WHO? Kylie Beyer FLYING IN FROM ... London KYLIE SAYS ... “I’m from Baltimore but in Dublin for a tattoo convention. From here I’m going to go to Amsterdam.”
WHO? Josephine and Pat Burel FLYING IN FROM ... Nice JOSEPHINE SAYS ... “I’m from France but we live in California. We’re in Europe for a few weeks, including Ireland for a week. It’s Dublin for a few days and then Dingle and Galway.”
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WHO? Elina and Manuela Adler FLYING IN FROM ... Munich MANUELA SAYS ... “We’re torn between visiting the west of Ireland and heading to the south, near Kerry ... but we’ve a few days in Dublin to decide.”
WORDS BY HANNAH COEN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN
WHO? Ryan van Velsen FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam RYAN SAYS ... “I’m here for four days to visit Google. I got to come over as part of my university course so I’m really happy to be here.”
Get through Dublin Airport in less than
15 MINUTES with Platinum Services | Express Visit dublinairport.com/platinumexpress
BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ■
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CHECK IN
LUCA TRUFFARELLI
ROS KAVANAGH
EAT · READ · GO
DUBLIN IN THE SPOTLIGHT Culture vultures in the Irish capital are in for a treat this month, with the return of the Dublin Fringe Festival (September 9-24; fringefest.com) and Dublin International Theatre Festival (September 28 to October 15; dublintheatrefestival.com). The former returns with its signature brand of mirth and divilment, including the sketch trio Foil, Arms and Hog, above right, at the Abbey Theatre and Film Fatale’s twinkling, tassle-swirling closing party at Liberty Hall, above left, which imagines a vaudeville troupe’s last hurrah. The Theatre Festival also has too many highlights to mention here, among them choreographer Emma “Arlington” Martin’s Girl Song, top left, and Corn Exchange’s Nora, top right, written by Belinda McKeon, which transfers Ibsen’s A Doll’s House to 2025 and turns it inside out.
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STAY
Marker Hotel, Dublin Overlooking the city’s docklands, the bright and contemporary design of the Marker make it a hugely popular spot – and that’s before one encounters the glorious city views from its rooftop bar. Heated, with complimentary blankets doled out for the very chilly nights, it’s not a bad place to spend an evening. And if the vistas aren’t enough to win you over, make sure to try something from the delicious menu. Rooms from €269. themarkerhoteldublin.com
Archer Hotel, New York Exposed brick, steel beams and splashes of colour throughout make the Archer Hotel a perfect match for its surrounding, trendcentric neighbourhoods: Midtown and Chelsea. The hotel’s elegant Spyglass rooftop bar offers up close and personal views of the Empire State Building, as well as a lavish cocktail list to accompany that magnificent skyline. Rooms from $199. archerhotel.com
Amano Hotel, Berlin Situated in Berlin’s Mitte district, the Amano Hotel is an excellent base for city exploring. The luxurious decor – think velvet soft furnishings and copper features – might trick you into preparing for a hefty price tag, but value is the name of the game here. The rooftop bar opens everyday from 5pm, providing beers and beats until the early hours. Rooms from €65. amanogroup.de
PHOTOGRAPHY
CULTURE
PIG FUN
The Bleeding Pig Cultural Festival (September 3-10) throws the spotlight on the north Co Dublin locales of Donabate and Portrane – homes of the fantastic Newbridge Demesne and windswept Portrane beaches respectively. The festival, now in its eighth year, is highlighted by a special artwork created by artist Alan James Burns, whose cave installations, above, have been touring the country this year to great acclaim. In addition, there will be concerts, dancing, workshops, screenings and more. All ages welcome. bleedingpig.ie
You be Ellen
Munich Gallery IMMAGIS opens another dazzling show this month from September 15, showcasing glam snapper Ellen von Unwerth’s HEIMAT exhibition of more than 30 works from the book of the same title. Right in time for Oktoberfest, von Unwerth invites viewers on a pictorial journey through her childhood homeland of Bavaria. The lavishly staged series delights with images tinged with a touch of nostalgia and a healthy lust for life. Inspired by Helmut Newton, the work also exalts humorous, lively and cheeky narratives featuring a mostly female cast – a sensual and visual treat ... Viva Bavaria! immagis.de
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© ELLEN VON UNWERTH
Terrass Hotel, Paris From its bold colours, statement prints and contemporary design, it’s hard to believe that this Montmartre hotel has passed through the same family for five generations. The hotel’s terrace offers breakfast, lunch and dinner with splendid city views. Sip a daiquiri at sunset and embody artist Salvador Dalí, who enjoyed the same scene for many years. Rooms from €203. terrass-hotel.com
TREVOR WHELAN
4 BEST HOTELS WITH ROOFTOP BARS
IMAGES COPYRIGHT OF THE ESTATE OF STEVEN CAMPBELL, COURTESY OF MARLBOROUGH FINE ART/ PORTRAIT BY CAROL CAMPBELL
ART
HEARTS AND DARKNESS Utopias and dystopias collide in The Art of Steven Campbell, a retrospective of paintings by the late Scottish artist at London’s Marlborough Fine Art Gallery. Recurring, tweed-clad characters appear in Campbell’s complex, allegorical landscapes, whose style echoes that of the Neue Sachlichkeit artists in 1920s Germany. His intricate and dramatic scenes, though, are distinctly his own. Runs September 13 to October 21. (6 Albermarle Street, +44 20 7629 5161; marlboroughlondon.com)
SMART ART A cool app for Londoners with a nose for out-of-the-way exhibits and exclusive gallery openings, gowithYamo is a mobile art guide that tailors its listings through the spectrum of individual taste, from Old Masters to the loftily contemporary. gowithyamo.com
THEATRE
Udderly Original
Dublin’s Fishamble theatre company has moo-ved (sorry …) to New York’s 59E59 Theaters this month, to present its one-woman play, Charolais, about an unlikely ménage à trois between a man, woman and bovine. Set in rural Ireland, the pregnant wife finds herself fighting for her farmer-husband’s attentions that are seemingly won by a French heifer. It’s funny, surprisingly bittersweet and performed by its writer Noni Stapleton, right, under Bairbre Ní Chaoimh’s direction. Runs until September 24. 59e59.org
MOTORSPORT
DRIVEN The Ayrton Senna exhibition at the Lamborghini Museum in Bologna explores the life of the F1 champion and commemorates his 1993 test drive at Estoril, in a McLaren fitted with a Lamborghini engine. Every race car ever driven by the Brazilian champion will be on display, from his debut outing to his tragic accident, heightening the poignancy of the accompanying Ayrton Senna – The Last Night photography exhibition. The cars on display will also include the white MP4/8, identical to the one tested at Estoril, along with its engine. The exhibition runs alongside Lamborghini Museum’s permanent collection until October 9. lamborghini.com
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DIASPORA
SHIFTING SCENES From Dún Laoghaire to Hollywood, Jill Beecher is an LA-based Irish production designer, who has worked with some of the world’s best filmmakers, including David Lynch on the new Twin Peaks reboot, Alejandro Iñárritu on The Revenant and Ridley Scott on Alien Covenant. Her TV work includes Game of Thrones, The Tudors, Penny Dreadful and CSI Miami.
Last year, Jill Beecher designed for Goodbye Darling, an Irish love story set during the 1916 Rising and directed by Maria-Elena Doyle. What are you working on right now? As is usual in this industry, I’ve many diverse projects on the go at the same time. At present I’m working on Early Man, a stop-motion animation directed by Nick “Chicken Run” Park; also The Man Who Killed Don Quixote, directed by Terry Gilliam – a very interesting project that has been in production for 20 years and the subject of the documentary Lost in La Mancha (2002). I’m also looking forward to The Snowman (directed by Tomas Alfredson and starring Michael Fassbender); Mother! (directed by Darren Aronofsky) and Suburbicon (directed by George Clooney), productions that should be completed by November 2017 in time for the Oscar nominations season. Which project are you most proud of and why? I feel incredibly privileged to have worked with David Lynch. His vision, depth of knowledge of the film industry, coupled
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with his art practice, makes him a truly inspirational figure. Working for him increased my awareness of the psychology of colour theory and the concept of never using your first thoughts, but going back and delving deeper into the subconscious of the subject. Which project so far has been the most challenging? I produced concept illustrations, storyboarding and graphic illustrations for The Revenant, a production that was gruelling for all involved, the crew having to transport all the equipment to remote and isolated locations. They also only used natural light to shoot the production. Due to severe weather restrictions, there was little or no improvisation and they used storyboards extensively for guidance. I learnt a lot about the lengths that filmmakers were prepared to go to – and I won the American Art Directors Gold Award for my work on this production.
In your experience, how has new technology helped or hindered your craft? I feel that new technology has made the production line in the art department more efficient. The idea generation between the director, cinematographer and production designer can be achieved more cohesively, with the final results being illustrated to a high degree of reality. Perhaps a negative is that in animations and CGI, emotions are harder to convey. What was the most surprising culture shock, moving from Dublin to LA? The sheer size and population of the city, with such diverse neighbourhoods. I find that Dublin is an easier city to navigate. Nobody walks anywhere in LA; the temperature is high, along with a very high population density. How would you describe your neighbourhood? I’m on location with different productions most of the time; for example, Twin Peaks was shot in California, Seattle and Pittsburgh. While living in Santa Monica, there are numerous cafés and bars on the seafront – it’s very difficult to find a bad eating experience there. The pier is where people like to congregate at night for great seafood. There are a lot of excellent Mexican restaurants in LA in general – I love Blue Plate Taco.
Three LA must-sees? The hike up behind the Hollywood sign is a must. The tar pits are always on the list and they are right beside another personal favourite, the LACMA gallery. This always has amazing touring and permanent exhibitions. Also, LA has one of the best live music scenes in America – there’s The Theatre at the Ace Hotel, The Troubadour and The Walt Disney Concert Hall. What insights have you had into Ireland since moving to California? Leaving gives you a better sense of perspective. In Ireland I find that literary references are learnt by osmosis, whereas in LA, conversations about science and technical advances are more commonplace. Communication can sometimes be a problem, especially as we are supposed to speak the same language. Slang is different and you learn not to use the phrase “deadly” very fast … And never to ask for a “chemist” – it’s always a “pharmacy”, or else you’ll get a strange look. If you had to live in one of the “worlds” that you’ve created, which would it be? Everything that I have worked on has happened to have a dark undertone so possibly none of them! But if I were to live in a fictional TV world, it would have to be the 1960s New York of Mad Men.
Experience Matters
Robert O’Shea (L), Head of Matheson’s Corporate and Commercial Department and Managing Partner, Michael Jackson
Strength in Depth of Experience Experience matters and Matheson’s Corporate and Commercial Department is a recognised leader in the Irish legal market with unparalleled experience in complex domestic and international corporate transactions. Robert O’Shea’s recent appointment as Head of the Corporate and Commercial Department coincides with an exciting period of growth for Matheson and related opportunity in the marketplace. In response to client demand, we have expanded our presence in the US with the opening of our San Francisco office, our third in North America and have announced new leadership and strategic partner appointments in our Corporate practice including: Technology; FinTech; Intellectual Property; Data Privacy; M&A; Financial Institutions; and International Business. With a wealth of experience across our five offices worldwide, these investments will ensure that Matheson continues to focus on the growth of our clients and to advise on the most significant corporate transactions involving Irish and international companies. Matheson ensures our clients go further by delivering results through unrivalled experience and expertise. To discuss your Irish corporate legal needs, contact Robert O’Shea at robert.o’shea@matheson.com To find out more, contact Michael Jackson at michael.jackson@matheson.com Dublin
London
New York
Palo Alto
San Francisco
Winner, Seven Deals of the Year, including in M&A, Equity Capital Markets, Loans and Financing, and International Financial Services Finance Dublin 2017 European Financial Services Tax Deal of the Year International Tax Review 2017 Matheson is ranked in the FT50 most innovative law firms in Europe Financial Times 2016 Number One Ranked Irish Funds Law Practice acting for 29% of Irish Domiciled Investment Funds by AUM Monterey Insight Ireland Fund Survey 2016
www.matheson.com
SCREENING
Spirit of War
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Horses for Courses
PAT R
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SPORTS
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Embrace the last of the summer evenings this September 20-21 with a screening of Leslie Norman’s 1958 epic Dunkirk on the beaches of Camber Sands in East Sussex, where it was filmed. Save your appetite, as food and drink – à la the 1940s – will be available on the evening, as well as dance classes, music and re-enactments to ensure an evening full of poignant entertainment. thelunacinema.com
Hold onto your hats this month with a weekend of glad rags and racing at the Longines Irish Champions Weekend. Held this September 9-10 at Dublin’s Leopardstown racecourse and The Curragh, Co Kildare, with competitions for best dressed and many more, as well as lots of races, it’s set to be a weekend of immense fun. irishchampionsweekend.ie
LITERATURE
NOVEL IDEA
Maeve Binchy captured readers’ hearts everywhere with her great love of storytelling through humorous novels and plays. Dalkey Castle in Co Dublin will celebrate her works on September 29-30 with ECHOES, a weekend of talks, debates, readings, walks, recordings and dramatisations that also celebrate other renowned Irish writers, with guest speakers including Joseph O’Connor and Binchy’s beloved husband Gordon Snell. dalkeycastle.com 18 |
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CLUB NIGHT
Fifteen Candles
London’s club scene may well be in dire straits, with even its icons shutting their doors. But Buttoned Down Disco is still going strong, nearly 15 years after it first welcomed indie kids, funksters, soul and electro heads on to its throbbing dancefloor. Held on the first Saturday of every month at Camden’s KOKO – an opulent, red and gold confection of a theatre dating back to 1900 – its next outing is on September 2. However, all eyes are on its 15th birthday bash on October 7 for one heck of a discotheque. Free before 10.30pm, £10 thereafter. buttoneddowndisco.com
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FOOD
FOOD FLIGHT
Paul McDonald started cooking at the age of 15 in Glasgow, Scotland. He has spent the years since honing his craft in London, Perth and in almost every Irish city. He and his wife Helen are proprietors of Bastion restaurant in Kinsale, Co Cork, where in year one they earned themselves a Michelin Bib Gourmand, among other awards. Here is his fantasy food crawl.
LUNCH
Social Eating House, London Lunch here is amazing value and the quality of cooking unreal. The attention to detail and the flavour Jason Atherton extracts from each ingredient is unparalleled. One dish that will always stay with me is the scallop with apple yoghurt, black curry powder, jalapeño and celery. It’s a buzzy, Soho spot, with a varied clientele – you can go in with jeans and T-shirt and sit beside a pinstripe suit, and you won’t feel out of place. socialeatinghouse.com
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DINNER
Eleven Madison Park, New York Helen and myself had our first dinner here after being married in New York. It’s tasting menu only but if you really like something – or really don’t like something – they can amend without any fuss. This place was so good we decided to go back for our first anniversary and will try to get back for our second. Enjoy the Eggs Benedict course, which comes with a large helping of caviar ... elevenmadisonpark.com
SIGNE BIRCK
BREAKFAST
Café Zique, Glasgow This is a special place for me; to start with it’s in my home town, but I also worked here. Café Zique runs 9am ’til midnight; breakfast, lunch and dinner, everything is made from scratch and it has an amazing deli. Mahiri Taylor, the owner, is driven purely by a passion for excellence and the best ingredients she can find. In the morning, join the nursing-a-hangover crowd with their famous big breakfast and a Bloody Mary. delizique.com
COCKTAILS
Café China, New York A 15-minute walk from Eleven Madison Park and you’re sipping cocktails at Café China’s tiny bar. It has a great list and my favourite on this particular trip was the Lucky Lychee. We also had some of the best pork dumplings known to man – really, this small restaurant is more about the food than the drinks but, if you’re lucky enough to get in, then get in! cafechinanyc.com
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In the heart of Kilkenny city, and Ireland’s Ancient East, is the home of Ireland’s most popular ale. Find out how our famous red ale is made on a guided tour. Discover stories and tales of our heritage, dating back over 300 years. Your visit will be topped off with a perfectly poured pint of one of our ales, or upgrade to a tasting paddle and try all three.
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PINCER MOVEMENT
Recently opened, Fancy Crab is creating a bit of a stir with its fun all-day concept set in the heart of London’s West End. Aficionados of the ten-legged creatures will be in their element with a menu of delicious dishes featuring one sustainable star ingredient – the Red King Crab. The vibe is laid-back, welcoming sophistication, and the happy discovery of fine, fresh seafood. Classic dishes include a spicy king crab burger, scallop ceviche, Singapore chilli crab, tuna tartare and dressed oysters, with other land options including whole chicken cooked inside a charcoal Bertha and the Fancy Crab beef burger … fancy that. fancycrab.co.uk
GRUB’S UP
DANIEL KRIEGER PHOTOGRAPHY
Eoin Higgins shares his taste of newcomers on the global food and drinks scene.
AT SWIM After a breathtaking restoration of the landmark
Pool Room at the former Four Seasons restaurant in New York, The Pool has opened and is positively resplendent in shimmering blues and pearlescent tones set under a soaring ceiling. Creating a mood inspired by the ocean, fauna and nature, as much as the sophisticated cool of New York City, the restaurant’s new cocktail lounge, The Pool Lounge – featuring a handmade bar crafted of mother of pearl – will surely become the NYC destination to enjoy inventive, lighter cocktails, in a stunning room with the city’s slickest movers and cocktail shakers. thepoolnewyork.com
World Champ Irish-American creation Prizefight Whiskey launched in Ireland last November to immediate acclaim for its fresh, upfront flavour combined with a tightly packed, spicy finish. Aged in barrels from Tamworth Distilling, New Hampshire and distilled and bottled in West Cork, the whiskey has a homecoming of sorts this month as it launches in Boston and New York. prizefightwhiskey.com
avoidance of bread by the fashionably gluten-free brigade, our once communal love of loaf is celebrated this month during National Bread Week (September 11-17; nationalbreadweek.ie). The initiative is a happy appreciation of our shared crusty heritage, as well as providing an opportunity to expand one’s home-baked repertoire. Currently, we are enthralled by the mouth-watering output from Glasnevin-based Scéal bakery – a culmination of one couple’s keen desire to feed people all-natural bread and baked goods made with love and passion. Fall in loaf at scealbakery.com.
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SHANTANU STARICK
Upper Crust Battling valiantly against the faddish (sometimes contrived)
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September is one of the best months for festivals in Ireland. Ingmar Kiang spotlights some of the best and the bonkers.
he highs of July and August may have passed but we’re getting the hang of squeezing every last drop from our summers. With wallets a little light after Electric Picnic (September 1-3) and other festivals, impoverished music fans can head for West Cork, where the Clonakilty Guitar Festival (September 20-24; clonguitarfest. com) is “nearly free” – only four of the shows are ticketed. The menu ranges from Otherkin’s garage thrash, to mellow tunes from singersongwriter John Spillane, and the masterful instrumental rock of The Church. Dedicated students of the six-string can also attend a talk hosted by renowned luthier George Lowden. And, if music be the food of love, play on at the Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival (September 1 to October 8; matchmakerireland. com). Spread across six weekends, it’s the largest gathering of its kind in Europe, with more than 50,000 love-hungry singletons putting their best foot forward. The tone of good old-fashioned Irish fun is set by country music from the likes of
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ECLECTIC FEELS Nathan Carter and Mike Denver, and regular dances held daily “after Mass”. This festival’s fast-growing LGBT offshoot, The Outing (theouting.ie), closes proceedings on the final weekend, with pop-up clubs, drag performances, comedy, live music and its own literary/ film festival. While many make the trip to Co Clare just for the craic, those in serious search of a mate are advised to seek out Willie Daly, “Ireland’s only traditional matchmaker” – touch his “lucky book” with both hands and you’ll be married in six months, apparently. Offering another chance to get down and dirty, the National Ploughing Championships (npa.ie) kick off on September 19 at Screggan, Co Offaly. Originally created to settle an argument between two farmers as to which county had the best ploughmen, the championships are now Europe’s largest outdoor event. Last year they attracted an astonishing 283,000 visitors, who spent €36.5 million over the three days. In addition to the actual ploughing, a massive 40-hectare exhibition space will display state-of-the-art machinery – plus there are sheep-dog trials, lamb
The sky’s the limit in Ireland this month, when punters can choose between a smorgasbord of annual events, from the Irish Hot Air Ballooning Championships, above, and Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival.
shearing, a food fair, craft village, fashion and motor shows, cookery demonstrations and more. And with a car park spread over 160 hectares, visitors can expect a healthy country walk into the bargain. At Culture Night on September 22 (culturenight.ie), museums, galleries and cultural centres nationwide will remain open until 11pm (some even later), offering free tours, screenings and performances. With more than 500 events in the capital alone – including a Street Art Tour led by “mindful vandal” Will St Leger, and an Instagrammers’ Photowalk – Dublin Bus is handily providing complimentary services between key locations. Finally, the Irish Hot Air Ballooning Championships irishballoonchampionships.com), above, returns to Loughrea, Co Galway this September 24-29. Between competitions, teams of amateur international pilots act as ambassadors for the sport, visiting communities to share their enthusiasm. First held in 1971, the championships have a decidedly relaxed vibe and a uniquely Irish twist ... pilots who “try too hard” are disqualified.
TIPSY, MOI? MARATHON DU MÉDOC, FRANCE On September 9, more than 8,000 participants will be allowed a generous six and a half hours to complete the Marathon du Médoc. After all, how else could they tuck into oysters, foie gras, cheese, steak
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and ice cream, washed down with 23 glasses of the region’s finest wines, along the way? Operating since 1985, the event now attracts 100,000 spectators celebrating a bizarre Gallic spin on athletics’ greatest challenge. marathondumedoc.com
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Handmade in Dublin by designer Ian Walton, the unisex W1/D Watch makes timekeeping a joy. It comes in three finishes – natural stainless steel, gold and black, and leather straps in tan, almond, black and fog. €379 at ntn.ie
Scented candles are ten a penny, but few smell half as good as those handmade with essential oils by Field Apothecary in Co Down. One of our favourites is “Hay”, combining notes of lavender, spearmint and grass. €35 at arnotts.ie
The sheepskin coat was once the preserve of Del Boy and Motty – but not anymore. Hip young gents will be rocking shearling this autumn/winter, and how about this Zara Double Sided Coat? Not actual sheepskin, but it’s a dead ringer. €129 at zara.com
The Cambridge Satchel Company recently made its Irish boutique debut at Kildare Village, which makes us happy. Their product is top notch – 100 per cent quality leather in natty colours. €91 at Kildare Village. kildarevillage.com
Goodbye summer, hello cosy Stable Classic Handwoven Green Herringbone Scarf! Handwoven in the West of Ireland, these woollen marvels effortlessly conquer the cold. €270 at Stable, 2 Westbury Mall, Dublin or at stable.ie
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SHELF LIFE
Bridget Hourican browses the latest books, podcasts and events for the literati. LONDON THEATRES BY MICHAEL COVENEY AND PETER DAZELEY, (FRANCES LINCOLN, HBK)
PETER DAZELEY
The classic London theatre has curving balustrades, opulent stage-curtain, red velvet seats, ornate ceilings and gold-leaf pillars. There are plenty of these in this elegant photobook, but also the more austere and experimental – the Almedia, left, Donmar Warehouse and the Young Vic in stripped bare wood – and the iconic, oak-framed Shakespeare’s Globe open-air playhouse on the Thames. London has more than 150 theatres and 46 are featured here, with images of stage and backstage, seats and ceilings, orchestra pits and rehearsal rooms, but all people-less, which lends the book an eerie, ghostly, after-the-show atmosphere. Actor Mark Rylance provides the foreword, telling us what it’s like to act “in the circle” and how we, the audience, are the “creative gods” with the actors only existing in our imaginations.
FICTION THE BREAK by Marian Keyes (Michael Joseph Hbk, Pbk, Kindle) Keyes returns with her inimitable gift of confronting serious issues through humour. Amy has a cool job, three daughters and a loving husband, Hugh, who suddenly decides he wants a six-month break in south-east Asia … It deals with marriage, mid-life crisis, vlogging, Alzheimer’s, workplace discrimination and – in time for next year’s likely Constitutional referendum – Repeal the Eighth.
DOWNLOAD PODCAST KCRW BOOKWORM
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SHORT FICTION LEVITATION by Sean O’Reilly (Stinging Fly, Pbk, Kindle) O’Reilly’s first book in 12 years is a series of stories loosely linked through a barber’s shop on Dublin’s Capel Street, where some of the characters work or visit. O’Reilly’s obsession is with romantic/ erotic love between men and women on the margins, about whom he writes with caustic, unsentimental tenderness, with passages of spare prose leaching into lyricism.
MEMOIR A LIFE OF MY OWN: A BIOGRAPHER’S LIFE by Claire Tomalin (Penguin, Hbk, Kindle) The acclaimed biographer of Dickens, Austen, Pepys and Hardy finally turns on herself. Born in 1933, she recounts her wartime childhood, “the conflicting desires to have children and a worthwhile working life”, widowhood, literary editorship of the New Statesman and the Sunday Times, and forging one of the great literary marriages with Michael Frayn.
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Park Theatre, London is putting on Loot, Joe Orton’s darkly comic masterpiece in commemoration of three 50-year anniversaries: the play’s first awardwinning West End season at the Criterion Theatre; Orton’s murder, by his lover, on August 9, 1967; and that year’s passing of the Sexual Offences Act, which partially decriminalised homosexual acts between men over the age of 21. The play runs until September 24; parktheatre.co.uk
Stand-out because Michael Silverblatt has been hosting this show for 20 years so it’s prepodcast, practically pre-internet, and the back catalogue includes interviews with literary greats WG Sebald, David Foster Wallace and Kurt Vonnegut. Every week, Silverblatt talks to an author about a particular book for 30 minutes. He’s read everything and in his quiet, growly, nasal New York voice, asks the most intelligent questions ever. He’s “the reader writers dream about”, in Joyce Carol Oates’ estimation, the man who asked David Foster Wallace if his dystopian novel Infinite Jest was structured on fractals ...
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Strongest memory of your first trip abroad? It was with my family to the southwest coast of France. We took the ferry from Rosslare overnight to Le Havre and I remember surfing in the Atlantic and visiting Biarritz on a rainy day.
Best music city? For sheer diversity, you can’t really beat London. The city caters to all tastes and styles, be it experimental, avant-garde nights in Café OTO or Iklectik, contemporary music at Kings Place, the latest West End musical or lavish opera at Covent Garden.
MIRIAM KACZOR
Three fantasy travel pals? Nobel-prizewinning physicist Richard Feynman, to hear his stories of cracking safes during World War II and playing bongos at the Rio Carnival. Radiohead’s Jonny Greenwood. Michael Palin, to document the trip as only he could.
Most amazing place you’ve performed in? When I was a TCD student, I sang in the Chapel Choir. In my first year, we toured to New York and our last night there happened to be on July 4 – we performed on the deck of the LE Eithne, part of the Irish Naval fleet. We sang, we enjoyed the open bar and we watched the fireworks from the deck. As performances go, it set the bar high. World’s best bash? My girlfriend’s brother ran a gallery in Berlin, and they hosted a New Year’s Eve party: DJs, performance artists, visuals, and a view of the iconic Berlin TV tower. We went up to the roof terrace to see the fireworks, and to say that Berlin exploded at midnight is an understatement … it was as if the city became a giant firecracker – the spectacle was immense.
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MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK
What was on your playlist on your last trip? In New York in April, I picked up Sunergy, a collaboration between Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith and Suzanne Ciani. If you’re a fan of the soundtrack to Netflix’s Stranger Things, this will definitely appeal to you.
Show the composer JONATHAN NANGLE a boundary and he will push it. His experimental approach to “classical” music shines through in his work with the pioneering Crash Ensemble – as illustrated by his brand new debut album Pause (ergodos.ie), which pulses, demurs and frequently surprises. The well-travelled Dubliner also lectures in music technology and electronic acoustic compositions at the Royal Irish Academy of Music.
If your new album was a place, what would it look like? The cover of my album Pause, above, is an abstract landscape that was hand-knitted by my brother. It’s a series of converging triangles reminiscent of Ireland seen from above. It makes me think of the west of Ireland, the Wild Atlantic Way. I imagine the wool probably came from the sheep you see teetering on isolated hillsides and cliff tops all along the west coast …
From the US to Australia and from France to South America, the story of Irish emigration is epic. And now it has a museum just as dramatic. Rated 5 stars on TripAdvisor, EPIC is an interactive experience where you can discover not just the history and culture of Ireland, but also the huge influence that Irish emigrants had on the lands they came to call home. And all just minutes from Trinity College in Dublin’s city centre. EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum. CHQ, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1. Opening Times 10am-6.45pm (last entry 5pm). +353 (0) 1 906 0861. epicchq.com
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5 GOOD REASONS ... … to loaf around London. Eoin Higgins takes the Tube.
DRINK London has seen a huge renaissance in its bar scene, especially over the past five years. Bartending has become an elevated profession, in the way that cheffing has, and the city’s drinks offering is very impressive and very social. Try Trailer Happiness in Portobello for rum-based, Tiki-inspired madness, or Swift, in Soho, for classy cocktails in a perfectly posh setting.
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Ireland to LONDON HEATHROW and LONDON GATWICK up to 29 times per day.
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VISIT The Natural History Museum is a perennial favourite, as is the V&A, Tate, Tate Modern, Saatchi Gallery ... the list goes on,
however, lesser-known gems worth getting to know include The Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities, Fine Art & Natural History – “an incoherent vision of the world, displayed through wonder, enclosed within a tiny space”, which is delightfully bonkers. SHOP It’s a good strategy to leave plenty of room in your luggage not just for high street spoils but also unique items that you will find only in the Big Smoke. Aside from the usual haunts – Fortnum & Mason, Harrods, Hamleys, et al – try taking a stroll down Redchurch Street in Shoreditch where shops bustle with interesting folks and well-crafted goods, from bespoke chocolatiers to handmade jeans and trainers. LISTEN London Calling … the city is, quite rightly, a music lovers’ paradise and much of it comes down to the multicultural backbone that puts so much exotic swagger in the great London songbook. From orchestral movements at The Proms, to quirky live sessions at venues such as Hootananny in Brixton – not to mention some of the greatest record shops on the planet – London sings!
ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN
EAT In terms of sheer variety, there are few places on the planet that can compete with this gloriously multicultural metropolis. From Hungarian comfort dishes at The Gay Hussar, Soho, to Israeli and Palestinian palate pleasers at Ottolenghi in Islington, there is much geo-cuisine to whet an appetite.
AA HOTEL OF THE YEAR 2017 With over 350 acres to explore and a wealth of estate activities on offer, Ashford Castle is the perfect destination for fun, adventure and relaxation. Ashford Castle is also renowned for exceptional dining experiences which include: · Fine dining in the spectacular George V Restaurant · Traditional Afternoon Tea in the Connaught Room · Irish Cuisine in the Dungeon
· International Cuisine served in Cullen’s at the Cottage · Exclusive private tastings and events in the Wine Cellar · Residents only Billiards Room and Cigar Terrace Wales Bar
www.ashfordcastle.com
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CZECH INTO PRAGUE
Live like a local in one of Prague’s best-kept secret addresses, whispers Lucy White. ardon?” is the most common word we use during our stay at Divadelní 22. Covering an entire floor, this two-bed (doubles), twobathroom apartment is so huge that we can’t hear each other from one end to the next. It’s the gaff of dreams: high ceilings, original, decorative doors and cornices, a high-tech kitchen, dining room, lounge and two balconies overlooking Kranner’s Fountain, the river Vltava and, beyond that, the hilltop Prague Castle. It’s quite the view and spans the length of the apartment. “D22” is a hit with film production companies – and it shows. Rooms are sparse and contemporary – no chintz or frivolous ornaments or artwork – but incredibly comfortable, ideal for a long-term let. Well, if it’s good enough for Cillian Murphy and Jamie Dornan, who stayed here with their families during the filming of World War II drama Anthropoid (2016) ... The property itself dates back to 1905 and is the Czech off-spring of France’s winemaking Chateau de Panisseau (chateaudepanisseau.com), some 20 kilometres from Bordeaux. The chateau produces its own red, white and rose vin – hence D22’s honesty bar and wine club. We’re in town for just four nights, hunkering down for some quality
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time and, while the aforementioned castle, the Charles Bridge and Astronomical Clock are must-sees for the first-time visitor, the inevitable swathes of large tour groups being herded from one historic pillar to post proved to be a nuisance for this writer. Fortunately, you don’t have to venture too far for a bit of calm – take a turn off the main drag into any one of the Old Town’s many beautiful arteries and you’ll find your peace, quiet – and perhaps an obligatory strudel, at the historic Café Montmartre, where once notable Czech bohemians (Franz Kafka, Egon Erwin Kisch) caroused and crafted their masterpieces. Montmartre’s rowdy cabaret origins more than a century ago are long gone, but antique furniture and a steady roll-call of artistic patrons, from local actors to architects, carry the torch of days gone by. It’s a city to get lost in and, if you like cocktails, it’s hazardously easy to lose a few hours at locals’ favourite Bonvivant’s CTC (bonvivantsprague.com), less than five minutes’ walk from D22. It’s tiny and has a laid-back retro, speakeasy vibe, with bartenders who are an encyclopaedia of mixology knowledge: if you’re dithering at the drinks menu, tell them your likes/dislikes and they’ll rustle up something bespoke. Great value, too. For daytime eats, cross the Most Legií, or Legion Bridge, for the Café Savoy (cafesavoy.ambi.cz). Art
WHAT TO PACK High Heel Sandals, €34.99 at parfois.com Velvet Kimono, €49.95 at zara.com
Céline Petra Sunglasses, €320 at celine.com
MAC Ruby Woo Lipstick, €20 at brownthomas.com
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Apartments at Divadelní cost from €244 per night. divadelni22.com
Nouveau in style and with a listed, ornate ceiling, it has been serving freshly baked pastries, cakes and classic Czech and French-inspired cuisine since the late 19th century. We grabbed takeout pastries, boxed up with bows on. Work it off afterwards on a swan or vintage-car shaped rowing boat (oh, go on), jumping out at Strelecky Island en route, where you can throw down a blanket and enjoy live music (and eat those pastries). And if you’re planning a visit in summer 2018, be sure to loaf along Prague’s Naplavka riverbank between the Palackého Most (Palacký Bridge) and Vytoň tram stop, a locals’ hangout where food and drink can be bought from twinkling boats and pop-up bars that line the cobbled boardwalk. It’s like the Seine in Paris, but better, more mellow – and leagues cheaper. And then off back to D22 to get lost in that vast apartment ...
Miu Miu Mini L’Eau Bleue Eau de Parfum (20ml), €44.50 arnotts.com
M&S Collection Cashmere Coat, €160 at marksandspencer.ie
Dr.Hauschka Lemon Lemongrass Vitalising Body Milk (30ml), €8.95 at drh.ie
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THE EATERY Traditional bistro Le Temps des Cerises is one of the last little 18th-century former houses of bygone Paris still standing, earning itself the title of a historical monument. Inside, you could be stepping back in time to the 1950s when the same photographs hung on the wall and the same clock chimed on the hour – as if any of the regulars were ever in a rush to leave this timeless place. You’ll find the menu very user friendly, even for the fussiest of eaters. (31 rue de la Cerisaie; +33 1 4272 0863)
PARIS
THE CULTURE HIT Hôtel Drouot is the world’s oldest public auction house, which might sound intimidating but you and I are just as welcome through the doors of this madhouse every Monday to Saturday as are any fine art or antique collectors. There’s something for all budgets and you might just see something you’d be willing to fight for. (9 rue Drouot, +33 1 4800 2020; drouot.com)
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO
THE NIGHTSPOT Les Bains is the revived “Studio 54 of Paris” – and the only nightclub in the city with a swimming pool. Before it became an icon of Parisian nightlife, it was Marcel Proust’s favourite bath house but in the 1970s, when David Bowie and Mick Jagger were regulars, it was a cultural institution fuelled by sex, drugs, disco and midnight swimming. (7 rue du Bourg l’Abbé, +33 1 4277 0707; lesbains-paris.com)
THE SHOP See if you don’t find a forgotten object from your childhood at Tombées du Camion (literally meaning “fallen off the truck”). This hoarder’s boutique is filled with an abundance of unusual and strange bits and bobs, from toy doll parts to vintage café ashtrays. Open daily 1pm-8pm. (17 rue Joseph de Maistre; tombeesducamion.com)
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MARIE-PIERRE MONET
GUILLAME GRASSET
Messy Nessy blogger and debut author Vanessa Grall reveals lesser-spotted Paris.
MORE ABOUT VANESSA Vanessa Grall (aka Nessy), founder of the cult online magazine Messy Nessy Chic, is a London girl who moved to Paris in 2010 and never looked back. Living in the land of her ancestors and cheese, she documents her nostalgic adventures in the city on her online cabinet of curiosities, which has earned her a monthly audience of up to two million readers. Don’t be a Tourist in Paris (Roads, $35) is her debut into the world of books.
THE WILDCARD Forget those big tourist boats that ferry up and down the Seine, barking the names of famous monuments at you over the loudspeaker. Captain your own electric boat for up to five people from €40 an hour, or one for seven people for the entire day at €28 a head. They’ll even prepare a picnic basket for you on request. (Bassin de la Villette, 37 quai de la Seine; boating-parismarindeaudouce.com)
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PARIS four times daily, and from Cork daily.
New Beginnings Budding wordsmith Georgina McNamara, 16, won first prize at the IMMRAMA Festival of Travel Writing in June. Here is her winning short story. ILLUSTRATIONS STEVE McCARTHY
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ook! Look Anna! Do you see it? Do you?” I open my eyes slowly and look resignedly to my right. I’d forgotten how persistent Klara was when she wanted my attention. And now, in her excitable state, she was determined not to be ignored. “Ireland!” Klara squeals, as if she thinks I’ve forgotten where we’re going to live. A whole new family ... It’s easier for Klara. She was so little when mama and papa died; she can barely remember what having
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parents felt like. All she can talk about is meeting Mister John and Miss Alannah, our new parents, as if the old ones never existed. I should be excited. Nadia, our orphanage matron, told me that there are tens of thousands still waiting in the Ukraine to be evacuated, that Klara and I are lucky to be alive and I should be grateful that a nice Irish couple wants to adopt us. Nadia was not nice. Nadia was always mean, to me, at least. She loved Klara. Klara’s perfect little smile, Klara’s happy little face, Klara this, Klara that.
Always ‘why can’t you be more like Klara? She is not miserable, she does not think only of herself’. At five years old, Klara has very little understanding of what’s happened in the last two years. All she understands is that we’re going to a magical country where everything is green and there is no danger because everyone is happy and peaceful. She is not sad to leave behind the only home we’ve ever known, because she never really knew it in the first place. Not like me. My throat feels tight suddenly and I try to breathe in and out quietly so Klara doesn’t notice. I stare determinedly at the sun shining in through the airplane window in a vain attempt to stop my tears from falling. It’s no use. Suddenly it’s all flashing through my head. Mama and papa dying. The crying as a child in the orphanage dies. Being constantly afraid that Klara will die, and then I’ll be left all alone in the orphanage with no one who cares about me. “Lets play a game!” Klara declares suddenly, making me flinch in my seat. Thankfully, Klara doesn’t seem to notice. “What’s the first thing you’re going to do when we arrive in Ireland?” She continues, unstoppable in her tirade. I sigh. “I don’t know, Klara. Sleep?” She looks at me, exasperated. “Bo-ring. I’m going to go and play in the water at the beach. Nadia said they have beaches everywhere in Ireland, and that I could go every single day if I wanted to!” For some unknown reason, Klara’s determination that everything is going to be perfect and happy makes me even more miserable. Why can’t I be happy like her? Why do I constantly feel like I have this hole in my chest? “I’m going to find a bathroom,” I mutter
Klara’s determination that everything is going to be perfect and happy makes me even more miserable. to Klara. I unbuckle my seatbelt and unsteadily rise from my seat, trying to make my way down the aisle without tripping over my own feet. There is a long queue for the bathroom when I get there. The plane is now shaking so much I can barely stay standing. Unexpectedly all I feel is rage. I’m trapped on a plane, leaving my home and the only connection
I have to my mama and papa behind. My tears rise to the surface and start spilling down my cheeks. I have done exactly what I promised I would not do, and started crying. Panic overcomes all my other feelings and, not thinking clearly at all, I stumble to the back of the plane. I nearly fall over twice, but the only thought that enters my mind is to be by myself. Crouching against the wall, I lean my head back, close my eyes and try to stay calm. Everything will be fine. We will be happy. I’m distracted from my chanting by the form of a tall, dark-skinned woman coming to sit down beside me. I recognise her from the row of seats across from me. I stare at her, not knowing what she’s going to do next. “Hello,” she says, smiling at me. She’s all pearly white teeth and big dark eyes. She’s beautiful, I find myself thinking. “Hello,” I say back, figuring that’s the safest option. “You looked upset, I wanted to make sure you were okay,” she continues. I try to understand, but my English only goes so far. “Th-thank you?” I answer unsurely. “Is this your first time on a plane?” Is she asking me if this is my first plane journey? “F-first plane,” I say back. She smiles at my bad attempt to communicate. Her smile falters as she notices the small scars above my eyebrows. Small but painful reminders of what Ukrainian life has become. She looks back into my eyes and, for some strange reason, I feel like she can see into my soul. “You won’t be sad forever,” she says finally, shaking her head and pointing at me to make her meaning clear. And, for some reason, I believe her. A sound rings throughout the plane, interrupting us. “Come,” she smiles at me, “the plane is landing soon, we must sit down,” and, pulling me to my feet, she holds my hand and leads me back to my chair. Klara looks up as I return. “Where did you go?” She demands, looking at me crossly. “Nowhere,” I brush her off. She looks out the window again before looking back at me, her smile faltering. “We’re going to be happy here, right?” Klara asks nervously. The conviction the woman had, the belief that I wouldn’t always be sad? Perhaps she’s passed some of that to me. I look into my little sister’s eyes, and finally, I believe the words that come out. “Everything will be fine. We will be happy.” We will be.
ABOUT THE COMPETITION Georgina McNamara from Newtown School in Co Waterford had her story shortlisted from 400
entrants in IMMRAMA’s Junior Travel Writers Competition. The brief was succinct: 800 words about an air journey. Georgina’s solemn but ultimately hopeful story captured the imaginations of judges Stephen Kavanagh, CEO of Aer Lingus, Vicki Stevenson, director CX EMEA of Airbnb and Phil Cottier, CEO of Ipsum Marketing, earning her top billing – and a trophy bestowed by Terry Waite. Next year, IMMRAMA is extending the competition to primary schools and junior cert students – so if you’ve any budding writers in your family, donate them your thinking cap ...
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INTERVIEW
T he L i n e o f
BEAUTY One part artist, one part magpie, Dorothy Cross is equally at home combing the shores around her Connemara studio as she is sourcing marble in Italy. We visit Cross in her natural habitat, where the magic really happens. WORDS GEMMA TIPTON PHOTOGRAPHS DOREEN KILFEATHER
L
eaving Galway city for Connemara, I’m heading west under Paul Henry skies. They are the familiar white-on-grey fluffy clouds, high against purple-hued mountains, while cottages are mirrored in the calm waters of reflecting lakes. I’ve seen them before in Henry’s evocative paintings, so travelling this road is giving me a strange sense of déjà vu. That’s the thing about art: it can either capture something so perfectly you’re at a loss to wonder how you never saw it before; or it crystallises something in your mind so that you’ll never see things the same way again. Connemara resident Dorothy Cross was born in 1956, two years before Henry died. Despite that brief overlap, his work belongs firmly to a sense of Ireland past, while Cross makes pieces that, while timeless, are firmly rooted in the world of contemporary art. Although their output is utterly different, the west of Ireland is as essential to Cross as it was to Henry. I find her down on the rocky shore, across the road from her house. She’s nimbly
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climbing down the jutting rocks to point out a cave, followed by Connie, one of those Labradors who just can’t get close enough, leaning in as you scratch her ears. Waves crash at the mouth of the cave so, disappointingly, we can’t go in. I suspect that Cross would consider going anyway, were it not for me. A keen wild swimmer, she also seems rather dauntless. She swam for Ireland for three years, and it was scuba diving that brought her to this part of the world. She stayed because she loved it. There’s something about the landscape’s wild beauty here that seems to suit her adventurous nature. “The farmer used to say,” she agrees when I remark on it, “I’ll find you down here one day with your eyes pecked out by the raven.” It’s an evocative image and I wonder if the farmer was familiar with her work, which has included taxidermied birds, desiccated snakes and a fingertip made precious with the nacre of oysters. Born in Cork, Cross studied art at the UK’s Leicester Polytechnic. “I hated the landscape of the Midlands,” she says. So, for her next college,
INTERVIEW
she wanted somewhere beautiful. “I chose California. I took a Greyhound bus up and down, looking at the different places,” she says, before selecting the San Francisco Art Institute. Dark haired, with intense brown eyes, Cross is a natural beauty who embodies a steely grace, softened by a frequent warm smile. You get the impression that, for her, a choice is as good as an established fact: it will happen. It’s an impression that is consolidated when I ask her about her path to becoming a full-time artist, a precarious occupation at the best of times. Did she ever wonder how she would make ends meet? “No,” she says. “I talk to students about that a lot. I always had complete faith in the work. I never took a full-time job in
my life, ever. I took a few parttime ones, but rarely. I was afraid of waking up 10 years later and thinking: I’ll go back and make art again soon. Some years were good, some years were bad,” she pauses, remembering. But the good years have stacked up. In 1993, she represented Ireland at the Venice Biennale, known as the Olympics of the art world. There was Ghost Ship in 1998, for which Cross took a decommissioned lightship, anchored it off Dún Laoghaire, and covered it with luminous paint, so that it glowed in the dark. Her work is in collections around the world, including the Irish Museum of Modern Art and Tate Modern. As we talk, we’ve moved up the hill to her studio. Designed as an extension to her house by
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architects McCullough Mulvin, a large French window frames the view, although it’s hard to tear my eyes from the trove of things Cross is working on, or that she has gathered for future inspiration. There are wax casts of fingers and feet, and I’m reminded of her glorious Bronze Foxgloves, replicas of the hedgerow plants, in which occasional bells have been replaced by fingertips. That balance of the natural and the human, and those moments where a potential shudder of disgust is underscored by intense beauty, are key to Cross’s work. “As I get older I think it’s more and more important to talk about art. Why we make it, what it can say,” she says. “It’s very important that art and imagination are spoken about. That whole passion has relevance. It’s one of the lifebloods of being on this planet, especially with the way the world is at the moment. My work,” she gestures around the studio and on to the framing bay beyond,
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INTERVIEW
“it’s so much about nature, the risk and the threat to nature. And it’s about time as well, our short period of time on the planet, and that’s something important too, recognising what we have. It’s about existence but it’s also about non existence; you can’t speak about life without speaking about death.” She draws our attention to this by taking something generally considered ugly or horrific, such as a skull, or the skin of a dead Beagle Shark, and adding gold. “Making it something precious, playing with the idea of what’s precious,” as she puts it, gesturing with her hands as she can’t help doing when she’s describing art. But where do you get skulls, dead fish and fingertips these days? “My aunt was a pathologist in Cork, and there was a biological
suppliers in North Carolina where you could still buy human hands. You can’t any more. The skull I found in a skip in Herbert Park. It was in a beautiful pathology box. I sold the skull to a friend who was a medical student for £100 as I was going travelling to India. Then, 20 years later, I got it back. Yes,” she smiles. “Life can be like that.” We’ve moved in to the kitchen. Cross’s house, by contrast with the studio, is open and uncluttered. Her keen eye for beauty is evident in the soft colours, pale greens and blues reflecting the colours outside. Her own art is there, as is that of friends and colleagues: a Kathy Prendergast map, a beguiling sea of pale tranquillity by Willie McKeown. Then there’s a framed drawing by one of her nephews of a pair of sharks. “Do you see how he’s rubbed out the teeth?” she asks. “He didn’t want them to be fierce.” There’s a pair of candlesticks found in an antique shop, made from the feet of extinct Irish Eagles. “They’re one of the saddest things I’ve ever seen,” she says. “Though the candles give them some kind of energy.”
Alongside the beauty, Cross also has a sharp wit. A bed she made for an early project is carved with an erotic text, translated into Irish. The text is hidden, however, whispering to the initiated from under the mattress. “That was for a show I was in with Richard Wentworth and Rachel Whiteread.” A newer project is for the New Art Gallery in Walsall in the UK’s West Midlands (thenewartgallerywalsall.org.uk) this September 22 to January 14, 2018. For this, Cross – and also artist Jonathan Wright – has been commissioned to make new works in response to the Tate’s JMW Turner collection. She’s just back from a trip to a Carrera marble studio in Italy and scrolls through images on her phone to show me her piece for the show. It’s a rectangle of marble floor tiles, with a scale replica of Mount Everest jutting out: the awesome sublime made delicate and fragile. I’m starting to see the world as a tautly pitched balance between existence and failure, beauty and ugliness, wildness and civilisation. It’s absolutely perfect.
THE LIKES OF DOROTHY … DESTINATIONS “I love Italy. And I went swimming with humpbacked whales in Tonga last year for my 60th. It was sensational. And Rangiroa, off Tahiti, is one of the most beautiful places in the world.”
Lisa Hannigan. We’re working together for the Sounds from a Safe Harbour Festival in Cork (September 14-17). Lisa is one beauty, and her voice … When she sings she kisses the microphone, it’s heartbreakingly beautiful.”
BOOKS “I’ve just finished A Line Made by Walking, by Sara Baume, who came up here recently to talk about a project. It’s a beautiful book, about an artist and being in the world, and it’s so interesting.”
ARTISTS “I adore so many. Gary Hill, Robert Gober, Giuseppe Penone – I love his work. He’s Italian, and makes stunning work using marble and gold. And he does these beautiful drawings where he’ll put a fingerprint on the wall and draw all the lines radiating out.”
MUSIC “I love Handel. And
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PEOPLE | IRFU
IRELAND’S
Global Call Ireland has its game face on this month, as it makes its Rugby World Cup 2023 bid presentation. We go behind the scenes of the campaign and find out why hosting the event would be a national victory of international proportions. WORDS CLÍONA FOLEY PHOTOGRAPHS ANTHONY WOODS
ndelible images from Skellig Michael to the coasts of Antrim with soaring skies and crashing seas were evocatively narrated by Liam Neeson ... There was little wonder that the video that accompanied Ireland’s bid to host the 2023 Rugby World Cup immediately went viral. It was the culmination of a vision first glimpsed when some of the Irish Rugby Football Union’s (IRFU) top officials returned from the tournament six years ago. “When we saw what New Zealand did in 2011 – a small island 15,000 miles away with a similar population – we said ‘if they can do it why can’t we?’” explains IRFU chief executive Philip Browne. Alongside Aer Lingus, the official airline of IRFU, they dare to dream of bringing rugby’s greatest event to a sports and festival-mad country which, as one official quipped, “brings more than 200,000 to a field every September for the National Ploughing Championships!” Politicians in the North and South have united in an unprecedented way. The pivotal piece of the jigsaw was the GAA agreeing to share all its top venues with the entire world, something it has only ever previously allowed at its 82,000-capacity Croke Park in Dublin. Most tournaments of this stature are confined to cities but the IRFU’s vision is to bring supporters on a tour of Ireland that few visiting fans would otherwise experience. Ireland’s sports-hungry natives would also see international
I
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rugby played in parts of the island which are jewels in Ireland’s tourism crown. Galway’s Pearse Stadium is literally at the gateway to Connemara. Fitzgerald Stadium in Killarney, with that jawdropping backdrop of lakes and mountains, is at the heart of the Ring of Kerry, and Nowlan Park is in the great Medieval city of Kilkenny. Throw in the passion and warmth of the home fans, plus the country’s rich rugby history, and the potential for a unique – and lucrative – sporting party is undeniable. The Aviva Stadium, Lansdowne Road, is the oldest rugby stadium in the world and hosted the first ever international in 1878. In 2015 Irish supporters crammed into Wembley Stadium to set a Rugby World Cup attendance record of 89,297 at the Ireland v Romania match. A year ago, a record number of 62,300 fans turned up to a rugby game in North America. That sea of green in Soldier Field, Chicago was surely Ireland’s 16th man in that famous first victory over the All Blacks. All this, and more, could happen here if hosting #RWC2023 and signal the potent power of the Irish diaspora in North America. A recommendation will be published by the board of Rugby World Cup on October 31 following their evaluation of the three bids. The World Rugby Council will then vote on November 15 and award the tournament. If the light goes green, it will be the start of one almighty rugby party. For more info on the bid, visit irishrugby.ie/ireland2023.
THE BOSS
WHO Philip Browne POSITION Chief executive of the IRFU
Philip Browne was a world-class athlete – not at rugby but as an oarsman who competed for Ireland at Henley and two World Rowing Championships in the 1980s. But the Rathgar native always loved rugby. As a child he bought schoolboy tickets for internationals in Fox’s tobacconist at the end of Grafton Street and still loves “the romance of the Six Nations” and how visiting fans light up Dublin every winter. The GAA, he says, was immediately open to sharing its stadia, which was a key tenet of the IRFU’s 2023 bid. “Internationally a lot of new stadia are out in the suburbs and it takes you hours to get there and back. Here you’re going to be able to walk 10 or 15 minutes to city-centre stadia and in a real party atmosphere. “The vast majority of visitors fly into Dublin and out again. It is a great city but it isn’t representative of the Ireland I like most,” Browne says. “By putting matches all round the country, in towns and cities where rugby hasn’t ever featured before, we will showcase all of Ireland at its very best.” SECRET ESCAPE? “Mullaghmore in Sligo. I’ve been going there for holidays since I was a kid. It is small but has the sea, mountains and beach. Whatever you want to do you can do it there. It is very Irish.”
THE CAMPAIGNER WHO Kevin Potts POSITION IRFU World Cup 2023 bid director
This former Irish A international has rugby roots which, to outsiders, couldn’t sound more quintessentially Irish. His dad worked for Guinness and, when he was nine, Potts started playing with their rugby club, for whom his grandfather also played. “The family enjoyment we’ve had from rugby has really shaped us,” he says and that cycle continues. When the IRFU handed in their bid to Dublin-based World Rugby in June, they did it with a huge parade from the
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Aviva Stadium, led by kilted drummers, an open-topped bus and children carrying all the flags of the world. His daughter Laura (nine) bore the Irish flag and his 22-year-old Ellen helped steward all the little kids. “It was such an emotional and powerful occasion.” Potts says Ireland’s diminutive size is just one of the many reasons that make it perfect to host the Rugby World Cup. “The minute you get into Irish airspace you will know it is on. We’re a sports-mad
country so the whole island, every town and village, will be hugely engaged. The impact that will have on the visitors, the tournament and World Rugby will be truly unique.” SECRET ESCAPE? “There are many gorgeous places here for family holidays. Kelly’s Hotel in Rosslare is ours. It’s hospitable, warm, friendly and just encapsulates Irishness. I walk in the door and instantly relax.”
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THE RISING STAR WHO Joey Carbery POSITION Out-half
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playing league rugby with Clontarf to his brilliant Irish senior debut in that famous defeat of the AllBlacks in Chicago in November 2016. The UCD sport and exercise management student feels Ireland would be perfect hosts for 2023 because: “There will be huge numbers at every game. Ireland is such a sport-driven country. Irish fans come out to support anyone and visitors will be amazed at how friendly they are.” SECRET ESCAPE? “I actually haven’t surfed here yet as my boards are still in New Zealand, but there are tons of great surfing spots, especially along the west coast. You can do a proper tiki tour here.”
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At 21, Joey Carbery’s young life already reads like a cross between Home & Away and Roy of the Rovers. His Kiwi dad met his Irish mum when he came to Ireland to play professional rugby with Blackrock. After marrying they settled in Dargaville, on the north island of New Zealand, two hours north of Auckland and right by the beach. Carbery, the eldest of their three children, was 11 and already immersed in surfing when they moved to live in Athy, Co Kildare. Culture shock? “Not really. All of my mum’s family are here so it’s a win-win situation. I’ve as many relatives here as I have in New Zealand.” In the space of one season Carbery went from
THE LION WHO Robbie Henshaw POSITION Centre
With his never-say-die tackling and rampaging runs, it is no surprise to discover that All Black giant Jonah Lomu was Robbie Henshaw’s childhood hero. “The way it took two or three fellas to haul him down and he’d still carry them across the try-line on his back ... As a kid I couldn’t believe him.” Henshaw’s tour to New Zealand with the Lions this summer may have ended prematurely due to injury but his first Southern Hemisphere experience gave him a real insight into Ireland’s suitability to host the 2023 World Cup. “We flew internally a lot down there but here the fans will be no more than three hours from Dublin to any of the proposed venues. Accessibility will be fantastic for everyone involved.” Henshaw is not only Ireland’s tackling machine but also the Irish team’s resident musician. He plays accordion and fiddle and reckons that visiting fans will delight in the unique atmosphere of traditional music seisúins, like the ones he enjoys in his native Athlone. “Sean’s Bar is reputedly Ireland’s oldest pub and one of the best places I know for a trad session.” SECRET ESCAPE? “Down the River Shannon on a cruiser. I’ve grown up on Lough Ree and we’ve always had a family boat. It is a really great, secret escape. The perfect way to see Ireland and get away from it all.”
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THE PATIENT ONE WHO Luke McGrath POSITION Scrum-half
Many of Luke McGrath’s south Dublin family have medical careers but work experience in a hospital during his school days quickly convinced him otherwise. He has just completed a business degree in tandem with his best season ever on the pitch and describes being a professional rugby player as “the best job in the world!” But when you wear the number nine shirt you have to be patient. Opportunities to play in such a pivotal and specialist position, even
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at provincial level, don’t come around often. The 24-year-old finally got – and really took – his chances in 2017, when he was voted Leinster’s Player of the Year. Making his Six Nations debut in Ireland’s defeat of England last March was a real pinch-me moment. “I came on for the last 15 minutes, we were four points up and The Fields of Athenry was going around the Aviva. I’ve never heard noise like it. “I was also lucky enough to be the 24th
man in Chicago where the amount of green was unbelievable. Irish fans just love travelling together to all sports. There’s something very special about that and, if we host 2023, the rest of the world will get to be part of that.” SECRET ESCAPE? “My parents have a holiday home in Roundstone, Co Galway. I grew up there, down around the harbour and out on the golf course (Connemara GC) in Ballyconneely. It is a really unique place.”
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DESTINATION | DUBLIN
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7/11Heaven
Visitors to Dublin’s Fringe and Theatre festivals this month would do well to also engage with Dublin’s Northside renaissance. WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS
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DESTINATION | DUBLIN
D
ublin city is divided into 24 postal areas – odd numbers live on the north side of the River Liffey, while even digits denote the ’burbs of the Southside. I’ve always lived on the north side of the river; in local parlance, I’m a Northsider. The citizenry of our great capital has long laboured under the illusion that it is divided along the River Liffey’s “commodius vicus of recirculation” into two distinct tribal entities: gritty Northsiders and smug Southsiders – but scratch a little below the surface of the mythologising and you’ll discover a city whose inhabitants have a lot more in common than those who indulge in the vanity of small differences would like to think. The Northside has typically been considered less fashionable, while the Southside is puffed up with the notion that its property prices are justified. This hasn’t always been the case. During the Georgian era, the north side of the city was the place to be – an aristocratic playground and aesthete’s dreamland – but when, in the mid-18th century, the Earl of Kildare decided, on a whim perhaps, that the Southside ruled and built one of the city’s most extravagant mansions there, all changed, changed utterly. Leinster House, the Earl’s “gaff” (“house” in Dublin slang) was designed by Richard Cassels and – fun fact – its first and second floors were also used as the floor model for the White House in Washington DC. The building is no longer a private residence; it currently serves as the seat of the Republic’s parliament. All of which points towards a real reason why Dublin 2 – the south side of the city centre – has, for decades, commanded the attention of the creative and cosmopolitan classes. But the times they are a changin’. As rental and property prices have surged inaccessibly skywards on the
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Southside, the “affordable” Northside, or more specifically Dublin 7, comprising the neighbourhoods of Smithfield, Stoneybatter, Cabra, Phibsborough (and others), has slowly begun drawing the in crowd in, letting it compete more confidently as a more innovative, from a creative point of view at least, part of town. Creative D7, in turn, rubs shoulders with historic Dublin 11, a more suburban locale yet home to more of the city’s crowning glories. The National Botanic Gardens (botanicgardens.ie), for instance, comprise almost 20 hectares of lushly planted and exotically curated botanicals, a beautifully restored curvilinear glasshouse, palm house, cafés, horticultural college, lecture theatre and rose garden – it’s free in and one of Dublin’s best attractions. The gardens brush up against the long-term home of more than one million Dubliners. Glasnevin Cemetery (glasnevintrust. ie), the municipal necropolis, is the resting place of some of Ireland’s greatest literary, political and cultural sons and daughters. It also houses a museum and genealogy centre, if you want to go digging around in your own roots, and the graveyard tour is well worth taking. Fierce thirsty work altogether, but there’s no better place in the vicinity
Previous pages, clockwise from top left, garden blooms in Phibsborough; embroidered napkin at Jennifer Slattery’s; Nicholas DiMaio from Token; Bohemian mural at Dalymount Park; two wheels good at the city market; a mission statement in Lilliput Press; vintage finds at Dublin Vintage Factory; Alex Calder at Arran Street East; miaow then, Phibsborough. Right, Lawson Mpame at Token. This page, clockwise from top left, exalted fish and chips at Fish Shop; exotic flora at National Botanic Gardens; Vanessa Power’s handpainted mural, Smithfield.
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DESTINATION | DUBLIN
THE ’BATTER DIRECTORY
The most prominent neighbourhood in Dublin 7’s ascendancy is Stoneybatter, a byword for urban creativity and non-destructive gentrification … here are some of its highlights. EAT Cotto offers great value pizzas in the evenings and superb brunches on the weekends. Friendly staff and everything is made from scratch, including their delicious pastries; cotto.ie. L Mulligan Grocer is a serious gastropub with excellent craft beer and whiskey options, as well as accomplished renditions from the modern Irish food repertoire; lmulligangrocer.com. Love Supreme serves the best coffee in the village, their espresso and filter selections are always enticing. It also does interesting large or small nibbles and pastries, including a very moreish sausage roll and hearty pies; lovesupreme.ie. Slice is an offshoot of the wonderful Cake Café in the city centre. Expect plenty of homemade savoury and sweet treats in an interestingly populated room; asliceofcake.ie. DRINK Walsh’s is the go-to spot for most people when meeting in Stoneybatter – a traditional Dublin pub with stainedglass features and a cosy snug that’s worth snagging. A good selection of drinks on tap, too; walshsstoneybatter.ie. Barbers is a bar with a barber shop within – a very Stoneybatter proposition – but, gimmicks aside, this is a cosy spot at which to linger
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over a few pints, with live music and entertainment on intermittent nights; thebarbers.ie. Kavanagh’s offers a fair pint for a fair price and is a family-run establishment that is less about frills and flounces than it is about having a quiet space in which to drink and put the world to rights with good friends; 01 838 6215.
BE MERRY The Elbow Room is a healthfocused urban retreat employing therapists and instructors who firmly believe everybody deserves effective and affordable healthcare – a relaxed, positive and fun environment to indulge in yoga, dance, meditation and other balancing acts; the-elbowroom.com. Lyón Loring is a fascinating vintage store in the heart of the village with a cult following that, well, verges on cultish. A thoughtfully curated selection of clothing, art, furniture and other interesting bits ‘n’ bobs await; 085 252 1996. For a splendid selection of the finest Irish and international ingredients and produce, swing by Lilliput Stores, where you’ll also find a handsome deli, delicious charcuterie and their very decent, ownbrand range of oils, pestos, marinades and sauces. A great picnic larder; lilliputstores.com.
to quench one’s thirst than at Kavanagh’s The Gravediggers (01 830 7978), an unspoilt Victorian pub by the graveyard’s south gate. The bar has changed little since it was established in 1833; the stout is poured beautifully and there’s a small green outside if the sun is shining and you wish to sup your pint al fresco, a place where Dublin can be truly heavenly. Post-pint, pep yourself back up with a coffee from Bang Bang (bangbang.ie) around the corner – a café and local shop serving good coffee and great-big tasty sandwiches with an ironic side of kitschy Dublin charm. It’s a local shop but not just for local people. Then, nuzzle deeper into the literary bosom of D7 with a visit to The Lilliput Press (lilliputpress.ie) a publishing house and bookstore in Stoneybatter (see “The ’Batter Directory”, opposite). There, pick up a copy of Bernard Neary’s brilliantly informative book on Dublin 7, the practically titled ... Dublin 7 (€20). The volume, illustrated with maps and photographs, covers all of the district’s neighbourhoods in a celebration of their rich history and increasing prominence. Tome under oxter, ramble on down to Oxmantown (oxmantown.com) on historic Mary’s Abbey for one of the city’s most sought after sandwiches and superb specialty coffee made with locally roasted beans from Cloud Picker Coffee (cloudpickercoffee.ie). This small café is run by Amie Costello and Conor Higgins (disclaimer: he’s my brother!) who source ingredients from the nearby city food markets. The ham and cheese sandwich (a meagre €6) is the stuff that lunch dreams are made of, but don’t just take my (potentially biased) word for it, there have been glowing reviews in the Irish Times, Lonely Planet, a profile in the New York Times and a top place on Eater.com’s Top Dublin Restaurants list for the modest eatery that’s brashly flavourful. If you fall in love with the pretty milk jugs in Oxmantown, or want to work off those calories with a throw, a browse, a shop, or all three, next stop should
Opposite, clockwise from top, Bang Bang, Phibsborough; Kate Daly Ní Bhroin and Lorcan gain an admirer in Smithfield Square; bejewelled victuals at Oxmantown; Ciaran Kavanagh at The Gravediggers. This page, clockwise from top left, thataway to Bang Bang; an unctous Cotto brownie; it's hip to be there, D7 street photographers.
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be up the road at Arran Street East (arranstreeteast. ie) pottery studio. Born from the search for “a simple, hand-thrown pot in great colours”, the folks here design and produce homewares for keen aesthetes who also seek those kinds of things. Make your purchase off-the-shelf, or create your very own pot on one of their meditative courses. For some, an afternoon spent in a video arcade might be considered an afternoon misspent. The folks at Token (tokendublin.ie) would certainly disagree, however, where the fun space twinkles and chimes with classic arcade games, beautiful retro pin-ball machines, a stellar selection of craft beers, cocktails and poshedup fast food ... what more could a body want? More shopping, perhaps – so hit Dublin Vintage Factory (dublinvintagefactory.com) close by in Smithfield Square; it’s fabulously fecund in cool classic clobber finds, while Jennifer Slattery’s (jenniferslattery.com) atelier on nearby Benburb Street is also pleasingly cluttered with hand-embroidered, heirloom, Irish linens; Celtic-chic, scarves and other pretty crafty accoutrements. The rest of the afternoon might best be spent admiring the objets at the National Museum of Decorative Arts and History (museum.ie), also in the vicinity; the ex-military barracks is filled floor-toceiling with engagingly charismatic things to ogle and experience, not unlike its heavenly locale. 62 |
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Clockwise from above, Jennifer Slattery at work; Dublin Vintage Factory in Smithfield Square; pretty jugs at Arran Street East; picturesque doors to ogle in Phibsborough.
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VISIT TITANIC BELFAST
Birthplace of rMS titanic and proud Winner of ‘World’s leading TourisT aTTracTion’ World Travel aWards 2016
titanic Belfast features nine interactive galleries that explore the sights, sounds, smells and stories of titanic. the world’s largest titanic visitor experience, it is located at the very place where rMS titanic was designed, built and launched. explore the shipyard, walk the decks, travel to the depths of the ocean and uncover the true legend of titanic in the city where it all began.
Book now at TITANICBELFAST.COM
FUCHSIA MacAREE
DESTINATION | DUBLIN
SLEEP
EAT
URBAN A stay at the Generator Hostel places you smack-bang in the centre of Dublin 7’s bustling Smithfield Square. Geared toward a younger crowd, the Generator is a choice budget spot for those who aren’t too fussed about the lap of luxury but still want plenty of in-house activity. Great casual food, a cool bar and plenty of nooks to chill out in, while each suite is equipped with fluffy towels, fast Wi-Fi and surprisingly comfy beds. Private rooms from €50 per night. (Smithfield Square, 01 901 0222; generatorhostels.com)
SEAFOOD It does what it says on the tin, but you won’t find much that comes from a tin at either branch of Fish Shop. On Queen Street, expect an evening seafood tasting menu scaled up to stellar heights, relying mostly on what’s been caught that day. Service happens in a pared-back, casual yet aesthetically-pleasing, room. Around the corner, the Benburb Street branch concentrates on fish and chips, but again exalted to a high level. A vibrant wine list in both places. (6 Queen Street, 01 430 8594; fish-shop.ie)
UNIQUE The quaint, three-bedroom Merrion Mews, located in the heart of Georgian Dublin’s south city district, is a remarkable accommodation, not least for its being elevated above still-in-use stables. Built in the late 18th century, the self-catering property retains much of its original character and charm. Features such as its cosy wood-burning stove, garden and period interiors make this a very comfortable and unusual Dublin bolthole. Sleeps six, from €822 for two nights. (01 670 4733; irishlandmark.com)
IRISH The Washerwoman in Glasnevin, Dublin 11, prides itself on the provenance of its ingredients. Set over two floors, the restaurant is decorated with a vaguely Hiberno-Scandi feel comprising bare stone walls, muted colours and interesting furniture. Both lunch and dinner menus have the same considered attention to the sourcing of ingredients, as does the weekend brunch menu. The grass-fed côte de boeuf is particularly memorable, and the interesting wine list is too. (60 Glasnevin Hill, 01 837 9441; thewasherwoman.ie)
COMFORT On Earlsfort Terrace, facing the National Concert Hall, The Conrad is a luxury five-star sparkler with a recently upgraded and pleasingly contemporary interior. Special touches abound as one would expect from the respected hotel group. Of note, The Coburg brasserie provides something to suit all appetites and tastes, while two bar options: Alfie Byrne’s and Lemuel’s are both linger worthy. From €272 per night. (Earlsfort Terrace, 01 602 8900; conradhotels3.hilton.com)
TRADITIONAL There aren’t many dishes associated with Dublin but perhaps the most infamous – it’s highly divisive – is Dublin coddle, a comforting dish made with Irish sausages, potatoes, broth, herbs and, in this case, bacon ribs. Dublin’s best iteration is served daily at Kavanagh’s The Gravediggers pub. If the look of the dish doesn’t appeal – it isn’t the prettiest – they also serve a selection of tasty, good value tapas. (1 Prospect Square, 01 830 7978)
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Come Home to Howth
Exclusive family homes at Dublin’s finest new address In a magnificent setting at the heart of Howth on Thormanby Road,Thormanby Hill is an exclusive development of only 32 extra large detached houses with landscaped gardens and private gated drives. Internal Area c.312 sq.m / c.3,358 sq.ft. Site Area average c.0.3 of an acre.
Photo Gallery & 3D Tours at
www.thormanbyhill.com
+353 (0)1 6318402 sales@hookemacdonald.ie
SUPPORTED BY THE NATIONAL ASSET MANAGEMENT AGENCY
Winner 2013 - 2016
Since 1979
THE JOY RIDE Not so far from the madding crowds of the Costa Tropical and Costa del Sol is a hillside hideaway where horses, exquisite food and sheer restfulness reign supreme. WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY
DESTINATION | ANDALUCÍA
T
he thrum of bees. The soft thud of a ripe mandarin plopping to the ground. A crisp leaf blown on a breeze. The gurgle of the swimming pool. The cicadas’ chorus that builds into a matinee crescendo. The snore of a fellow guest. It’s not until the furious clop of horse hooves storm into the yard at breakfast time that you remember you’re here on a riding holiday. That, and the glorious ache in your thighs every time you ease out of the sun lounger. Phone network and data roaming be damned at Los Olivillos, a working olive farm and stables tucked away in a national park in the Sierras Tejeda, Almijara and Alhama in Andalucía in southern Spain. The park covers a gargantuan area of 40,662 hectares split between Málaga and Granada provinces, the former’s airport some 55 kilometres away. It’s where rebels and bandits once rode their mules through precarious, narrow paths during the Spanish Civil War, and through which merchants traded food and supplies. But city life and past hardships feel worlds away from this tranquil hillside idyll where nature reigns supreme: an endless caravan of ants, the swooping swifts, the jittery geckos and slithering lizards. However, it’s the horse that is king at Los Olivillos. It’s where Donna Forsyth, a British former chef, threw down roots some 15 years ago to realise her dream of running an equestrian retreat cum farm, which she and her stepson, Ricky Hodge, and British horseman, Jeff Powell, run with gusto. At the time of writing, they have 13 horses – “we need a 14th in case it’s bad luck!” quips Jeff, who was a barn foreman in
Clockwise from top left, Essex-born horse-man Ricky Hodge, who went to school in Competa; shapes and scenery; an awesome spread of tapas at Los Olivillos; traditional signage at “The Lost Village” of El Acebuchal; on the slow road, and a wild mandarin hangs in the balance ...
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A German/Irish Primary and Secondary School with a European culture and spirit St. Kilian’s German School in south Dublin welcomes boys and girls of all nationalities, cultures and religions. Children learn German from Kindergarten (Junior Infants) up to Leaving Certificate in a diverse and inclusive environment. Our approach to education combines the best of the Irish and German educational traditions: students are prepared for the Junior and Leaving Certificate as well as the German Sprachdiplom and Sek1 examinations. Knowledge of German is not a requirement to enrol at St. Kilian’s.
Open Day
Come and visit our school on Saturday 7th October 10am-12pm to meet our teachers and students and to see our extensive campus.
Contact us to arrange a visit. St. Kilian’s Deutsche Schule Dublin, Roebuck Road, Clonskeagh, Dublin D14 P7F2 T +353 (0)1 288 3323 E secretary@kilians.com www.kilians.com
prestigious UK studs before moving to Spain. As a woman buying and selling horses here, Donna is an anomaly. Horses are traditionally a man’s game in Spain, with its own centuries-old, patriarchal etiquette that she has had to observe – and sometimes challenge. But her expertise and perseverance have paid off to startling effect. The riding here is exceptional. There’s a receptive, well-schooled Andalucían horse for every ability, from absolute beginners to worldclass professionals – including this intermediate writer, who went to riding school every Saturday during my youth but now only gets back in the saddle a few times a year. Hacks start every morning at around 10.30am, after guests enjoy leisurely breakfasts on the terrace overlooking a sierra that undulates towards the Mediterranean Sea in the middle distance. Horses
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are tacked up and then we’re off, winding our way through remote roads with the sheerest of drops and the most magnificent of views. Very occasionally we pass a car – mostly it’s just us and the slow, hypnotic clatter of hooves. The mind wanders and wonders. This is heaven. While the region is inevitably parched by late summer, in June it’s surprisingly verdant. Olive, carob and pine trees are everywhere, while fresh rosemary and lemon balm scent our path (one day, Ricky grabs fistfuls of fresh, roadside mint for our pre-dinner cocktails). Rides can last up to four hours, but with a cheeky pit stop along the way – much-needed after so long
Above, the epic sierras Tejeda, Almijara and Alhama, and right, the restored El Acebuchal village. Opposite, giant courgettes, breakfast time for the horses, and old shoes mark the way.
SMART TIPS I booked Los Olivillos through Zara’s Planet, a company that specialises in horseback holidays. Run by three Irishwomen based in Ireland and the UK, it also works with ranches in the US, South America, Africa and Asia. A three-night break, including accommodation, riding, all food and drink, including booze, costs €540, while a week costs €1,260. zarasplanet.com Due to very winding roads, it takes nearly an hour and half to
get to Los Olivillos from Málaga airport. If hiring a car, you will need a 4x4 – and a strong stomach for those mad bends and sheer drops. Transfers can also be arranged at €77 each way. The charming, buzzy seaside resort of Nerja is around 55 kilometres away from the retreat, making a two-centre break an excellent option for riders seeking to rest their bones on a beach after four days of fantastic horse riding.
in the saddle and fierce Andalucían heat. One afternoon, Ricky and I leave our horses beside a bar to sip gin and tonics in the sunshine. (This tipple turns out to be a constant theme, Donna arriving in her 4x4 with ice, plastic cups and freshly made gin and tonic during one trek.) Another day, our group rides into the tiny, pretty hamlet, El Acebuchal, aka “The Lost Village”. What’s now a pristine settlement of whitewash homes was once a ghost town, its residents banished by the Guardía Civil in 1948, having harboured enemies of Franco. Houses were left derelict and dormant until the 2000s, when children and grandchildren of the original occupiers returned to claim back and restore their properties. Electricity and fresh running water were installed for the first time in 2003; now El Acebuchal is a peaceful enclave beloved of locals and visitors alike. We “park” our horses outside one of the two tavernas where I enjoy fried sole with unctuous sautéed potatoes – washed down, again, with giant G&Ts. Mealtimes back at the ranch are hearty and healthy, thanks to Donna’s catering expertise. A former chef at London’s five-star hotels, she admits to living the dream by not only keeping AERLINGUS.COM |
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DESTINATION | ANDALUCÍA
Fly return to Málaga this summer for 15,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.
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*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN OFF-PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES
Clockwise from right, Martina Katanska admires the view; chef/owner of Los Olivillos – and horse whisperer – Donna Forsyth; swing time in El Acebuchal; posing in the paddock, and a fingerlickin’ plate of fresh, locally sourced gambas.
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Coming up roses – Los Olivillos bursts with colour, left, not least its bright blue dip pool, below.
horses but also growing her own produce at the on-site allotment. For three days we feast on freshly plucked avocados, tomatoes, chard, aubergine and some of the biggest and tastiest courgettes I’ve ever eaten, remastered into tagines, tapas, soups and paella, each dish inspired by the region’s Moorish roots. Los Olivillos continues to maintain its olive farm heritage, too, producing its own oil and also honey, the results of which are lavished at every mealtime. In such great outdoors, we spend very little time in our converted stable accommodation. But once the riding boots are thrown off and jodhpurs peeled from saddlesore limbs, there’s much to love: a homely, contemporary curation of comfortable beds, linens and cushions, a kitchenette, day-bed, cute crockery, bohemian lamps, books, magazines, original artwork and a large bathroom with shower. In this place, I don’t miss WiFi. I gladly spurn my emails and social media, turning my attention instead to reading, feasting, resting and counting down the hours until my next horse-ride against that soundtrack of thrumming bees, plopping mandarins, gurgling pools, the chorus of cicadas ...
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MÁLAGA up to thrice daily, from Cork and Belfast daily, and from Shannon thrice weekly.
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33 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2 +3531 6707238 WWW.THEGREENHEN.COM
OPEN 7 DAYS 2 COURSE LUNCH €17.00 3 COURSE LUNCH €19.00
EARLY BIRD MENU 2 COURSES €19.50 3 COURSES €22.00
A LA CARTE MENU EXTENSIVE WINE LIST GREAT COCKTAILS
SMART EDIT | FOOD MARKETS
You say, we say ...
10
BEST FOOD MARKETS
1 Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Manchester up to five flights daily, and from Cork 18 flights per week.
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PHOTOGRAPH BY MARK DUGGAN
With a nose for local produce and stellar street food, Patrick Hanlon and Russell Alford sniff out some of the finest destination food markets.
MARKET HOUSE, ALTRINCHAM, MANCHESTER The Mancunian suburb of Altrincham continues to blossom into a bona fide food destination with Market House, a street food sibling of the town’s popular covered market. Opened in 2014 after a transformative renovation of the Grade II-listed building, Victorian-style shop fronts surround a 180-seat dining area every Tuesday to Sunday. Savour wood-fired sourdough pizza from Honest Crust, grass-fed steaks from Tender Cow and local brews from Jack in the Box, a tap bar from brewery Blackjack. altrinchammarket.co.uk
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MARKTHALLE NEUN, BERLIN Of course Kreuzberg, recently named Europe’s most hipster neighbourhood, should boast a standout food market in the form of Markthalle Neun. Sating Berliners since 1891, today it’s a true microcosm of modern Berlin with traditional, local and artisan German produce punctuating a globetraversing line-up of stalls and street food vendors. You’ll jostle for space at “Street Food Thursdays” each week, while an annual calendar includes huge food fairs and specialist celebrations such as “Breakfast Market” on the third Sunday of every month. markthalleneun.de
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin up to twice daily.
KARMELITERMARKT, VIENNA Wien’s Naschmarkt may be one of the best known but locals have long since migrated to better value stall-holdings that only the most discerning tourists know about. One such example is Karmelitermarkt in the up-andcoming, old Jewish neighbourhood of district two. At weekends, this pretty square is lush with farm-fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs and squeezable breads, plus live music and readings around the periphery. And should the heavens open, take refuge in the indoor delis Zimmer 37 or Kaas am Markt.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna daily.
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4 MILK MARKET, LIMERICK
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to XXX twice daily.
Housed under its iconic and award-winning, bright white tent structure, the prosperous and produce-laden Milk Market in Limerick city centre traces its origin back to the tail end of Ireland’s Great Famine. Now a popular symbol of the city’s prosperity and food culture, it’s a weekend hot spot for sampling the freshest local produce from bakers, butchers and farmers, alongside art, crafts and bric-a-brac. Look out for Real Olive Co, Green Saffron spices and Wilde Irish Chocolates stalls. milkmarketlimerick.ie
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MERCADO DE SAN ILDEFONSO, MADRID
Inspired by the street food markets of New York City and London, the Mercado de San Ildefonso is the trendiest of Madrid’s food markets with 18 stalls across three floors. Located in the heart of the city, this modern mercado offers dishes that traverse the globe from crisp croquetas to Nikkei ceviche, gazpacho to Venezuelan arepas. Make like the Madrileños and head straight for the top-floor terrace in the evening to sit, sip and savour the atmosphere at sunset. mercadodesanildefonso.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Madrid up to 11 times per week.
6 BOROUGH MARKET, LONDON What began as a cluster of stalls around the London Bridge area is today the UK capital’s premier food market, Borough Market. Set in the shadow of the Shard, locals and tourists alike mingle amongst this mélange of British food growers, speciality producers and street food traders six days a week. Some must-tries include Bread Ahead doughnuts, Monmouth coffee, Gourmet Goat and British Isles cheeses from Neal’s Yard Dairy. boroughmarket.org.uk
Aer Lingus flies from Ireland to London 29 times per day.
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7 GANSEVOORT MARKET, MEATPACKING DISTRICT, NYC The perfect alternative to the more established and often crowded Chelsea Market. The historic Gansevoort Market, initially an open-air produce market, has since relocated a couple of blocks from its original building to 14th Street. Right beside the High Line, this is a perfectly positioned pitstop to try Burger INC’s marrow burgers or eggplant sliders from Hold My Knots. Here, the produce sings and the premium quality speaks for itself. gansmarket.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK thrice daily, to Newark daily, and from Shannon to JFK six times per week.
AWARD WINNING SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Howth, just 10 km from Dublin city centre is the premier fishing port on Ireland’s east coast. Renowned for its seafood, Howth has built up a large number of top class seafood restaurants over the past few years. In the Oar House local chef John Aungier joined forces with fishmonger Sean Doran to create this award winning restaurant. The Oar House, now in its eleventh year of trading, is a regular haunt for the locals and a hugely popular ‘must see’ for visitors. Needless to say its fish offerings are wide and varied with an emphasis on what has been landed on the day. We source most of our fish from the trawlers you see outside our window. Indeed our own trawler “Celtic Fisher” skippered by Sean’s brother Padraig is our primary supplier of the famous Dublin Bay Prawns and most of the whitefish served here. Indeed the specials board is effectively a list of fish landed in Howth that morning! So if you like atmosphere and great seafood look no further than the Oar House. We look forward to welcoming you to Howth Pier soon The Oarhouse is accessible from Dublin City Centre by DART or Bus. We’re open 7 days a week, 12.30 to late serving lunch, early bird & A La Carte. 00353 (0) 1 834568 theoarhouserestauranthowth@gmail.com oarhouse.ie Private Conference Room available for Corporate and private Functions. Outside Terrace available for private functions.
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FANEUIL HALL MARKETPLACE, BOSTON A meeting hall venerable in history and politics, Faneuil Hall Marketplace (pronounced like “Daniel”, and sometimes known as Quincy Market) near Boston’s waterfront has hosted more than 16 million visitors, making it one of the most popular tourist sites on the United States’ east coast. Renowned for its “fleet” of traditional pushcart stalls, you’ll also find a mix of local traders, international brands and street performers. faneuilhallmarketplace.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston twice daily, and from Shannon daily.
MERCATO DELLE ERBE, BOLOGNA Lofty and verdurous Mercato delle Erbe, or “The Herb Market” in English, is a fine place for enjoying aperitivo hour. Although it’s Bologna’s largest covered market, it’s still slightly off the beaten track so you’re guaranteed to rub shoulders with the locals. Open until midnight weekdays and until 2am on weekends, visitors should check out Altro, one of the restaurants that occupies a former butcher shop and now lavishly decked out with swanky sofas, mismatched tables and ample greenery. mercatodelleerbe.eu
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona twice daily, and from Cork four times per week.
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PHOTOGRAPH BY KRISTIN TEIG
9 10 GRAND CENTRAL MARKET, LOS ANGELES Spending an entire day at Grand Central Market in Downtown Los Angeles is not only easy but deliciously enticing. A century-old stalwart, now with 37 different vendors each under a neon sign, any Angeleno could easily have breakfast, lunch and dinner here, open 8am ’til 10pm seven days a week. Our pick? Deep-fried meat pastries, carnitas gorditas, from Ana Maria, while Eggslut’s cheesy scrambled eggs in a warm brioche bun – aka the Fairfax and surely the most Instagrammed breakfast of all time – is a prerequisite. grandcentralmarket.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles four times per week.
MIAMIMAGIC A bona fide party city, there are also plenty of Latininspired eats and drinks to send you into a blissful food coma beside one of its many rooftop pools ... WORDS AMANDA KAVANAGH PHOTOGRAPHS AL HIGGINS
DESTINATION | MIAMI
W Opening page, sunrise at The Betsy’s rooftop pool. Top, off the main strip on South Beach and above, patriots and pastels. Right, baked treats at Zak the Baker.
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hen your immediate cultural touchpoint for a city is that Will Smith song, expectations run high. From US preclearance in Dublin Airport to Miami taxis, everyone asks the same question, “You here to party?” All are disappointed with our answer. We’re in town to eat our way through the city’s best food spots, which we follow up with a nod and a promise that we’ll taste a cocktail or two in the process. “Oh” is the response. Recommendations don’t come quick. Alongside New York and LA, Miami isn’t widely prized for its culinary scene but it is catching up. Commonly referred to as “the gateway to Latin America”, what it does have is a rich mix of Cuban, Peruvian, Columbian and Argentinian food, from fine dining to casual eats, and plenty of excellent seafood restaurants to boot. Getting your head around orientation of the city is quite easy. Miami Beach is a series of natural and manmade barrier islands connected to the mainland by vast bridges over Biscayne Bay. Within it, South Beach is a resort that takes up the southernmost four kilometres of Miami Beach. Although $100,000 cars are common on its streets, it is also pedestrian friendly. It is this part of Miami that is immortalised in Smith’s 1997 jam ... and all the lyrics are 100 per cent true.
DESTINATION | MIAMI
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On the mainland, it’s another story. The neighbourhoods of Little Haiti, Wynwood, Little Havana, Downtown Miami and the newly christened Brickell (formerly the financial district) hug the coast, from north to south, and wheels are necessary to move between them. In many ways, it is a tale of two cities; a resort destination and a modern metropolis. While locals will urge you to get out of South Beach, it’s difficult to resist whiling away a day or two all agog, craning your neck to look at signage preserved in pastels, snapping pics of Art Deco architecture along Ocean Drive, Lincoln Road and Collins Avenue, and walking on white sands – it really is like nowhere else in the world. There’s plenty of worthy pit stops on South Beach too. Stop into Las Olas Café (lasolascafesb.com) for a warm crisp bread with tender pork, glazed ham, peppery mustard, gooey cheese and diced gherkin pinned inside – it’s a legendary Cuban sandwich. If you’re looking for somewhere to linger, Joe’s Stone Crab (joesstonecrab.com) is a bit of a trek and, once inside, there’s still walking to do, as the restaurant comprises three-quarters of a city block. Stone crabs from their two fisheries (South Keys and Naples), are of course the recommended dish – “a distant cousin of the Irish brown crab” I’m told, though the Irish version is gamier. Summer is a casual affair with check tablecloths and alert staff dressed all in black, while winter sees white tablecloths on the tables and tuxes on wait staff. If you’re looking for an excuse to dress up, you’ve found it. Afterwards, the restaurant’s longtime manager, Brian
Johnson, recommends we bimble over to Smith & Wollensky (smithandwollensky.com) for a rum cocktail with views of the port. Not wanting to be rude, we oblige. If one cocktail turns into two, or many, do not bypass Puerto Sagua on your way home. Well worth the 20 minutes or so queuing and the hurried table service. Here you can taste true Cuban comfort food. Following waiter’s orders, I eschew fish and opt for the oxtail stew, which ends up being one of the best things I eat all week. For a final night cap, Mac’s Club Deuce (macsclubdeuce.com) is the dive bar of dreams and an institution around South Beach. All human life is here, as well as pool tables and a dangerously accessible ATM. Fresh the next morning, we head to Little Havana. Although it’s early in the day, music blares on the streets, while cigar shops dot the sidewalk and festoon lighting hangs overhead. Inside the Cuba Ocho Museum and Performing Arts Center (cubaocho.com), which admittedly looks more like a bar than a museum, José Martí and Marilyn Monroe survey the scene from a large mural behind the stage. Art is everywhere: on the walls, on the roof, on the tables and, sometimes,
Opposite – clockwise from far left, bartender Eddie Moreno at The Broken Shaker; a Wynwood mural; ceviche and octopus skewers with anticuchera sauce at 1111 Peruvian Bistro; some of the best Cuban food on South Beach; upstairs at 27 Restaurant; El Cielo’s glazed prawn with squid ink. Above, laze away on a Four Seasons hammock; Pepe Montes Trio at Little Havana’s Ball & Chain; Wynwood street art.
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DESTINATION | MIAMI
Clockwise from left, Ball & Chain’s Calle Ocho Old Fashioned; Art Deco hues on South Beach; Miami’s first cold brew bar Box Coffee, and watching the ships roll in at Smith & Wollensky.
art is the table. Nearby is Máximo Gómez Park, where groups of people play dominoes, cards and chess, as they patiently ignore the buses of tourists rolling in and out to take their photograph. Across the road, we follow the fizz of water misters to Ball & Chain (ballandchainmiami.com), Little Havana’s most “likes”-worthy bar. Although it’s tame enough at noon, we’re told by multiple sources that it gets pretty rowdy in the evenings and we note the sizeable dancing area. While mojitos are the obvious draw (and they are excellent), the Calle Ocho Old Fashioned, made with aged rum, tobacco leaf and bitters, is somewhat of a show stealer, especially when paired with chicharrónes (pork rinds with smoked paprika). Over in Wynwood, we head to the area’s main tourist attraction, Wynwood Walls, an ever-changing exhibtion of street art, and find a site swarming with selfie sticks. We don’t stay too long and set out exploring the surrounding neighbourhood on foot. A former warehouse area, the first shops we clock are an Aesop and a Warby Parker, sure signs we’re at ground zero for a certain demographic. Around the district, there is plenty of street art to take in, and lots of interesting places to stumble upon for air con and snacks. We take a breather in Concrete Beach Brewery (concretebeachbrewery.com) and sit in view of its copper fermentation tanks to sip beers that are half the price of those in Miami Beach. To
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hydrate, a cold brew coffee with orange fizz and a hibiscus tea with muddled watermelon at Box Coffee hits the spot, and we pick up a Tropézienne treat at Zak the Baker, orange blossom-infused buttercream in a brioche bun, for sustenance. Somehow we successfully ignore the soaring, swirling mounds of babka and head back to our hotel. Later that evening, we make our final stop and realise too late that it’s worth spending an entire evening in the Freehand Miami’s adjoining indoor/ outdoor tropical Broken Shaker bar and 27 Restaurant (freehandhotels.com). The former is a laidback leafy oasis with a pool and a garden that grows garnishes for cocktails, while the latter is located in an historic home over two floors, serving South American food with a Miami twist and a big focus on local sourcing. The next morning we miss sunrise yoga on the rooftop of The Betsy, but board the plane home with few regrets.
Join AerClub today, and you can turn your everyday shopping into flights for you and your family at aerlingus.com/aerclub.
@theriddlerdub
The Riddler
The Riddler
www.theriddler.ie
t: 01 - 9073266 e: info@theriddler.ie
Open 9am - Late
MIAMI ESSENTIALS STAY
cut poetry railings, the arts are everywhere. There’s even a designated Writer’s Room, which hosts emerging talent in honour of Jonathan’s father, the late poet Hyam Plutzik. Rooms from $249. (1440 Ocean Drive, +1 305 531 6100; thebetsyhotel.com) BEACH SIDE Starting the day with a swim in the ocean is a must at Loews Miami Beach Hotel. For beyond its palm tree-lined pool, a little gate brings you right onto the sands. If you want all the buzz of Collins Avenue, but also require sleep, Loews is perfect. Despite its glamorous lobby, it’s surprisingly kidfriendly too. From $249 a night. (1601 Collins Avenue, +1 305 604 1601; loewshotels.com)
CITY SLEEPER Close to the free Metromover that covers seven kilometres of downtown, The Four Seasons Brickell is ideally located for visiting the city’s sports and entertainment arenas. Entrance to the seventh-floor lobby reveals mid-century Hans Wagner-style chairs, wood panelling and bold artwork, but the real kicker is its expansive rooftop pool. Rooms from $239. (1435 Brickell Avenue, +1 305 358 3535; fourseasons.com) WRITE ON “Miami is one of the greatest cultural centres of the world. It’s only 50 per cent hard bodies and parties,” so says owner Jonathan Plutzik as he shows us around his 61-room boutique hotel, The Betsy. From a dedicated exhibition space to photographyfilled corridors, performance spaces and steel-
EAT
childhood baking. While totally bizzare, it does set a playful tone for the rest of the meal – all 14 courses of it. Highlights include a smoked eucalyptus buñuelo (delivered with fanfare) and a tangerine pork belly with corn butterflies inspired by Gabriel García Márquez. (31 SE 5th Street, +1 305 755 8840; elcielorestaurant.com) PRESENT-DAY PERU From its clean and contemporary interiors, the tone is set at 1111 Peruvian Bistro. Snack on salted corn kernels as you wait on a zingy ceviche apaltado (shrimp in a creamy sauce with avocado and capers), fried yellow potatoes and a wellbalanced Peruvian lomo saltado – stir fried beef tenderloin with red onions and cherry tomatoes. (1111 SW 1st Avenue #106d, +1 786 615 9633; 1111peruvianbistro.com)
CASUAL CUBAN Inside Las Olas Café is an unassuming canteen of stainless-steel deli displays, but a steady stream of locals tells you all you need to know. Its specials include peppery Cuban sandwiches (natch), pork shoulder with crispy crackling and sticky sweet plantains. Wash it all down with a reviving sugar cane water or passion fruit juice, both made in house. (644 6th Street, +1 305 534 9333) REFINED COLOMBIAN Taking inspiration from his mother’s cooking and the avant-garde techniques of El Bulli, Juan Manuel Barrientos’ El Cielo is certainly a mix. To start, chocolate is poured on your hands and you’re invited to lick it off and reminisce on memories of
SMART TIPS Fort Lauderdale Airport leaves you about 50 kilometres from South Beach and Downtown. Renting a car is always an option, however do know that the cost of valet parking can add up quickly. A cab to the city should cost you about $70, or share a shuttle bus for around $22 each way. expressshuttlemiami.com The mundane becomes magical at 11 11 Lincoln Road. Designed by Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron, the open, concrete car park has sparked conversations about what a utilitarian structure it can be. Take the lift to floor seven for spectacular views across the city. 1111lincolnrd.com
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MIAMI three times per week.
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creating space for business to grow flexible workspace in Dublin & Belfast glandore.ie | info@glandore.ie | @glandorenetwork Dublin: +353 (0) 1 669 4700 | Belfast: +44 (0) 28 9044 7100
DESTINATION | MUNICH
Raising the bar – Cossi Medde, above, the owner/manager of 55 Eleven Bar and Café, near Odeonsplatz and Ludwig Maximilian University. Right, decorative Marienplatz.
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From
PILLARS to PROST
Oktoberfest often starts early in Germany – in September, when steins are raised to the world’s biggest fair dating back to 1810. We visit the thoroughly modern Munich, where it all began. PHOTOGRAPHS NICHOLAS GRUNDY
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DESTINATION | MUNICH
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2 1 Waitress Sarah Langer takes a break at München 72, where colossal burgers are named after famed athletes at the 1972 Olympics. 2 Subway station Münchner Freiheit
– “Freedom of Munich”, its name honouring the anti-Nazi resistance group Freiheitsaktion Bayern who were active here in 1945. The square of the
same name is now a popular meeting place, not least during Christmas market season. 3 Blue sky thinking ... the very cool Flushing Meadows hotel has a guestsonly rooftop space; the ideal perch for admiring the city centre skyline in the September sunshine.
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DESTINATION | MUNICH
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4 Opposite, the sprawlingly, sculptural Olympic Park.
*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES
5 The “Shane Love” vegan burger at München 77. 6 The flamboyant Matthias Münz, owner of Verrückte Eismacher, aka The Crazy Ice Cream Maker on Amalienstrasse. 7 An Art Deco clock tower signals the old Public Bath House.
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8 Retro vibes at the Karlsplatz underpass.
Fly return to Munich for 15,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.
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DESTINATION | MUNICH
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10 9 Ein bier, bitte – Oktoberfest starts early in Germany. 10 Communal dining awaits at 55 Eleven Bar and Café. 11 Dome patrol ... a delicately painted ceiling at the Englischer Garten’s imposing Monopteros, from which spectacular views of Munich await. 12 Incongruous, ja? Surfers ride the River Eisbach at the southern end of Englischer Garten.
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Drinks
History of JW Sweetman
Our site here at Sweetman’s dates back to 1756. The moment you step through our door, you quickly realise you are part of something special. One of Dublin’s most historic brewing empires of the 18th Century was established by the respected and highly successful house of Sweetman.
Craft Beers we brew on-site are available for tasting. We also have a wide range of Commercial Beers, Whiskeys, Gins and we have a Cocktail Bar on the Ground and 1st floors
The Corn Exchange 1&2 Burgh Quay was built in 1808. It began as a Tavern offering welcome hospitality to the ships that were docked outside its door. Now we are very happy to pay homage to Dublin’s brewing industry and welcome you into our Independent Craft Beer Brewery, J.W. Sweetman
bre w e d o n -site
J.W. SWEETMAN CRAFT BREWERY 1 & 2 BURGH QUAY, DUBLIN 2, IRELAND FOR BOOKINGS CALL 00353 1 6705 777 OR EMAIL INFO@JWSWEETMAN.COM WWW.JWSWEETMAN.COM
CRAFT BEER TASTINGS • RESTAURANT • LATE BAR • LIVE MUSIC 7 NIGHTS • 1916 GALLERY • SUNDAY TRAD MUSIC
See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes
“It’s crystal clear”
A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.
“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.
+353 (0) 51 317000 houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
DESTINATION | MUNICH
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SLEEP GREAT VALUE Maintaining the minimalism of its sister sites throughout Germany and Austria, Ruby Lilly opened its doors in Munich’s city centre earlier this year. Rooms are elegant and open, maximising space with open-floor planning and all-glass walk-in showers. Handily, it’s located near the wellknown Lowenbraukeller brewery, that is, if you can prise yourself away from excellent cocktails and live music at the hotel bar. Pilates and yoga classes on the rooftop also. Rooms from €145. (Dachauer Strasse 37, +49 89 954 570 820; ruby-hotels.com)
13 Englischer Garten’s patrons in the beer garden that surrounds the Chinese Tower. 14 ’Tach Team – baker Oliver Fischer at the Riedmair Bakery stall in Viktualienmarkt.
COOL The interiors at the Cortiina
15 Rambling views as far as the eye can see
Hotel set the tone for a lush stay with understated soft furnishings, contemporary design and extremely comfortable beds. The breakfast buffet of eggs, fruit and other organic goodies sets you up nicely for the day, while charming staff ensure you’ve everything you need during your stay, including their recommendations of places to visit should there be any indecision. Rooms from €349. (Ledererstrasse 8, +49 89 242 2490; cortiina.com)
from the Englischer Garten.
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ON TREND Set in an industrial, altbau building in the trendy Glockenbach neighbourhood, each of the achingly hip rooms in the Flushing Meadows Hotel has been individually designed by local creatives to give a unique
experience to discerning guests. The rooftop bar offers superb views of the Alps, and there’s also free bike rental for exploring the city. Rooms from €218. (Fraunhoferstrasse 32, +49 89 5527 9170; flushingmeadowshotel.com)
SMART TIPS There are two train lines connecting Munich airport to the city centre, the S1 and S8 S-Bahn lines, which run every 10 minutes throughout the day. Signs are clearly marked in the airport and the train journey itself takes around 40 minutes. munich-airport.com Hold on to your lederhosen – the annual Oktoberfest (oktoberfest.de) takes place in Munich’s city centre from September 16 to October 3. The city’s public transportation network (info at mvv-muenchen.de) will increase its frequency of buses and trains, with plenty of stops and stations in close vicinity of the main site, where some six million visitors are expected to descend.
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MUNICH twice daily, and from Cork three times weekly.
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5 BEST
Seaside Retreats Enjoy the last days of summer at these oceanfronting oases, recommends Yvonne Gordon.
FRANCE
CASSIS, PROVENCE
With beaches, a fishing village and a sheltered bay on the French Riviera, Cassis, just 20 minutes from Marseille, has been one of Provence’s best-kept secrets – until now. Beach-lovers will take up residence on the pebbly Grande Mer, while foodies can tuck into the day’s catch
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at the quayside restaurants and watch the colourful boats bobbing in the harbour. For a picnic outing to the coves of the rocky Calanques inlets, stock up on breads, sundried tomatoes, olives and other treats at the twice-weekly market (Wednesdays and Fridays) in Place Baragnon.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Marseille three times per week.
CROATIA
ROVINJ, ISTRIA
With water temperatures topping 20°c during summer, an average of 10 hours of sunshine a day, an archipelago of islands, an old town, plus gorgeous seafood and wine, what’s not to love about a seaside break in Rovinj? The only
difficult part about spending time on this part of the Istrian coast is which beach to choose – a sandy bay, a rocky shore or even a wild beach in a bird reserve. Our advice? Try them all first and then pick a favourite.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Pula three times per week.
UK
MARGATE, KENT
Gone are the donkey rides and the oldfashioned deck chairs – in recent times, Margate has become one of the coolest spots to be seen west of the Costa Brava, thanks in part to the shiny new Turner Contemporary gallery, a revamp of the Dreamland theme park and renovation of the Victorian mansions. A busy seaside resort for many years, accessibility to London and the recent regeneration attracts the coffee and laptop-loving set to Margate Sands, but traditionalists can still tuck into fish and chips, ice cream and cream teas.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to London Heathrow 14 times daily, from Cork four times daily, from Shannon and Belfast daily, and from Dublin to London Gatwick up to five times per day.
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SMART EDIT | SEASIDE
IRELAND'
GLANDORE, CO CORK
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN
Set on a beautiful inlet in West Cork, on the Wild Atlantic Way, the sheltered waters of Glandore Harbour and the colourful seaside village of the same name have made it a popular sailing haven, with a yacht club that buzzes in summer. There’s plenty for non-mariners too, with scenic walking paths, picnic and fishing spots – or, in fine weather, just watch all the action from one of the harbour-front pubs.
USA
MALIBU, CALIFORNIA
Golden sands, big waves, celebrity homes, lifeguards and sunshine. If you can tick all these boxes, it must be California. This iconic stretch of movie-set-ready sand at Malibu Beach, famed for its stars, surf and sunsets, is actually made up of a number of beaches running for nearly 50 kilometres along the coast. Surfrider Beach near the pier is the one for catching waves; Zuma Beach is popular with families and don’t miss El Matador for unusual (and photogenic) sea caves and rock formations.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles four times per week.
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DESTINATION | FRANKFURT
48 HOURS IN
Frankfurt Germany’s “Mainhattan” has an impressive skyline, cool hotels and some tasty local brews, finds Ed Finn.
Don't miss . .
STEIN WAYS Oktoberfest has been celebrated throughout Germany since 1810 and the Frankfurt version easily packs as much of a punch as its Munich counterpart. You’ll be “Prost!”ing here this September 13 to October 8, with much less queuing, easier accessibility and better-priced accommodation. Although famous for its apple wine, the local Binding brew is definitely one of the best German pilsners around, a light beer with a good balance of malt and hops. (Commerzbank Arena, Mörfelder Landstrasse 362, +49 6104 600 3636; frankfurter-oktoberfest.de) NATURAL HIGH Unlike many observation decks, the 56th floor of the Main Tower is open to the elements. Some 200 metres up, you’re surrounded by stunning views of the skyscrapers that inspire Frankfurt’s nickname “Mainhattan”. To the north are the Taunus mountains, to the south, across the river, is the suburb of Sachsenhausen, with its famous food markets and apple wine pubs. (New Mainzerstrasse 52-58, +49 69 913 201; maintower.de)
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to FRANKFURT daily.
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Drink at . .
FURTIVE If a speakeasy is to be defined by a secret or unobtrusive entrance then The Parlour is exactly that. Frankfurt’s cocktail bar scene has really been shaken and stirred recently and this is one of the best, its alchemy taking place in a small but sleek setting with warm woods and Chesterfield sofas. Bespoke and classic cocktails are served up with great gusto – but good luck finding the entrance … (Zwingergasse 6, +49 69 900 25808; theparlour.de) Top, the much abridged Main river, above, stein way, right, riverboat cruising.
WASSER WORKS Frankfurt has a terrific skyline and on KD’s one-hour Panorama Cruise, you can learn about its past and present. While the majority of the buildings in the historic Römerberg district were destroyed during World War II, many of the blockbusters have been meticulously restored – especially good at night, when the city shines at its brightest. Adults €9.60/ kids €6. (Mainkai 60311, +49 69 285 728; k-d.com)
SLEEK Looking for some seriously good cocktails? Sullivan Bar should be right up your strasse, with its combination of classic and contemporary libations. Swish, with luxury touches, Sullivan is a good stop-off on the way to the late clubs, its staff engaging and flamboyant. (Kaiserstrasse 12, +49 69 928 84900; sullivan-bar.de) FRUITY Frankfurt is famous for its traditional cider taverns serving the much loved apfelwein. Sachsenhausen, with its cobblestone streets, is lined with them, and the Adolf Wagner bar is one of the best places to enjoy this local brew. But be on your guard, it’s stronger than you might think ... (Schweizer Strasse 71, +49 69 612 565; apfelwein-wagner.com)
ECCENTRIC Could The Libertine Lindenberg be the hippest hotel in Frankfurt? It is certainly on the Zeitgeist, with one- to-three-bed suites, exposed brickwork, handknotted carpets, film nights, free bike hire, and pink and black paintwork making for a sexy frisson. Heck, even their accessories are for sale to take home – a miniature ukulele, or even the bed, meine damen und herren? Rooms from €99. (Frankensteiner Strasse. 20, +49 69 661 61550; das-lindenberg.de)
SELF-IMPROVEMENT With a half-size Olympic swimming pool, a whirlpool, steam and sauna and a state-of-the-art gym, the Hilton Frankfurt City Centre is a great place to maintain your fitness routine, while its beauty centre offers massages, facials and pedicures. The garden courtyard offers relaxing, al fresco dining in summer; rooms are large and spacious; staff are helpful and breakfasts are excellent. Rooms from €130. (Hochstrasse 4, +49 69 133 800; hilton.com)
TRUE BLUE The rooms at the 25hours Hotel Frankfurt by Levi’s are inspired by the history of the jeans of the same name. Each floor is characterised by its own furniture and furnishings, the motif being denim-blue bathrooms with natural red stone sinks. There’s a stylish rooftop bar serving hipster cocktails, while the Andy Warhol Room hosts cool live bands and DJs. B&B from €106. (Niddastrasse 58, +49 69 256 6770; 25hours-hotels.com)
Top, the Vista Bar Lounge at the Hilton Frankfurt City Centre. Top right, bright and spacious rooms at The Libertine Lindenberg and above right, 25hours Hotel Frankfurt by Levi's is cool blue, through and through. Below, super schnitzel abounds, and, left, Frankfurt is famous for its apfelwein.
DIETER SCHWER
Sleep at . .
Eat at . .
DER BIG APPLE Founded in 1849, Fichtekränzi is a traditional apple cider restaurant where you will find plenty of gemütlichkeit – that uniquely German word for welcoming. Try the delicious schnitzel with Frankfurter green sauce. (Wallstrasse 5, +49 69 612 778; fichtekraenzi.de) COME TO PAPA Set in one of Frankfurt’s most picturesque spots, near the Old Opera House, Papa Enj pleases locals and visitors alike. The tuna tartare with avocado is highly recommended, or the delicious cacao-ravioli; for dessert, the signature cheesecake with espresso. There’s also an interesting wine list to pair with their impressive food. (Opernplatz 12 +49 69 260 10235; papaenj.de) HOMELY For more than 60 years, a pastry shop has existed on the premises of Café Glauburg. Today it’s a chic but homespun-style, family-run café serving a sumptuous Sunday brunch, daily lunch and exquisite pastries – a favourite is Mutti’s Cheesecake, still made using an old family recipe. (Glauburgstrasse 28, +49 69 200 12279; glauburg-cafe.de)
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AWARDS 2017
DUBLIN | GALWAY RIAI AWARDS 2017 4.
1.
3.
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Winner – Best Housing 1. Dunluce Apartments Winner – Public Choice Award 2. O’Donoghue Centre for Drama, Theatre and Performance Highly Commended – Conservation/Restoration Building 3. Richmond Barracks Commended – Best Sustainable Project 4. Ballymun Boiler House Rediscovery Centre
CRAFTED EXCELLENCE WWW.PURCELL.IE
COMMERCIAL | RESIDENTIAL LEISURE & SOCIAL FITOUT | RESTORATION
DESIGN & BUILD | HEALTH REFURBISHMENT | EDUCATION PHARMACEUTICAL
ON BUSINESS
Making travel work for you
PHOTOGRAPH BY AL HIGGINS
ROME 110
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ITALIAN JOB Roisin Agnew pounds the ancient streets of Rome for the best places to work, rest and play, and with the help of a tech-preneur.
A DAY IN THE LIFE How Sigmar Recruitment’s COO Robert Mac Giolla Phádraig balances the pleasures and pressures of work with family.
SIR NIKOLAI HOTEL, ETC Melanie Mullan sizes up a former warehouse in Hamburg, and hot new hotels in Barcelona, Toronto and London.
SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Dan Kiely of the tech company Voxpro reveals the secrets of his success and why Venice is his go-to city.
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R
EAT
MATRIARCHAL The women who run Pianostrada may have got a bigger and better space but they’ve never quite forgotten the humble street food beginnings that made them a local favourite. Situated in Rome’s oldest neighbourhood, Trastevere, they still dish out classic panini and their famed fritti (vegetable tempura) whilst serving up Roman classics with inventive and playful aplomb. The space used to be a furniture shop and, from the splendid look of its mishmash interior, the owners appear to have preserved the decor. A fail-safe treat. (Via delle Zoccolette 22, +39 06 8957 2296)
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RENEGADE Conservative in all matters food, Rome resisted the non-native brunch craze a little longer than other cities, yet Haus Garten Bagel Bar makes the wait worthwhile. And it’s not just about bagels, either. Healthy brunch options with a Roman twist, right, are served in a leafy garden perfect in which to enjoy the temperate Roman September air, washed down with a cocktail. Brunch is served on weekends only, but it’s also an excellent place for an atmospheric after-dinner drink. (Piazza Monte Grappa 1B, +39 06 3212 0073)
GIUSEPPE QUATTRONE
ome seems like a place where work could be such a pleasure. Suited men on Vespas escaping the immmovable traffic, tailoring galore and endless espressso shots in good weather make that easy to imagine. As Europe’s third-most-visited city it has always attracted every sort of traveller, but also investor. In 2015 it beat Milan as the Italian city with most female managers and in 2016 the Italian south’s GDP grew by 0.9 per cent, mainly due to investment in startups and small to medium enterprises. Nothing will ever stop it from being the Eternal City that holds so much of the world’s treasures but, in its small way, Rome has been trying to prove that while it is the city of antiquity, it can also be the city of innovation and modernity. For the business traveller it offers an abundance of options in food and accommodation, and what it lacks in infrastructure it makes up for in sheer beauty.
HOT-SHOT A trip to L’Osteria di Monteverde is undoubtedly worthwhile in that it brings you through Monteverde, one of Rome’s most beautiful residential areas, a stone’s throw away from the bustle of Trastevere and Gianicolo. Its humble presentation would have you believe that it’s a family-run trattoria, but in fact it’s the creation of a pair of pioneering young chefs who’ve imaginatively rendered old Roman recipes to create one of the capital’s hottest restaurants of the moment. (Pietro Cartoni 163, +39 06 5327 3887)
WHEN INROME... The Eternal City is renowned for its antiquity but Roisin Agnew hunts out a few mavericks, too.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY AL HIGGINS
GET SMART
COFFEE STOP Drinking coffee in Rome consists in the throwing back of a shot while standing at a bar – there are few places that add such a sense of ritual and majesty to the act as the Antico Caffe Greco. Close to the Spanish Steps, it became a salon frequented by many famous artists – Goethe, Casanova, Wagner, Leopardi, to name but a few. Whilst sitting in its beautifully-maintained Victorian salon will cost a pretty penny, a coffee standing at its bar costs almost the same as it does anywhere else. (Via dei Condotti, 86, +39 06 679 1700; anticocaffegreco.eu)
HOT TRAVEL TIP When coming from Rome’s main airport, Leonardo da Vinci, the Leonardo Express is by far the most efficient and pleasant mode of transport. In 35 minutes it gets you into Termini Station, platform 25. The ticket does not reserve your seat, however, so it means you get to enjoy some genuine local shoving and bad temper. trenitalia.com THAT OLD SOAK Rome has an infinite number of magnificent ruins to disappear into, but nothing has quite the dramatic effect of the Terme di Caracalla. Situated near the Circus Maximus this is one of the best preserved examples of ancient Roman baths and provides an escape from the frenzy outside. coopculture.it
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to ROME up to twice daily.
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Business
SLEEP
SWISH One of Rome’s finest luxury hotels situated next to Piazza Cavour and the Palazzaccio, close to the shopping street of Via Cola di Rienzo, Hotel Visconti, right, is a sleek and contemporary affair, perfectly situated in the midst of everything. What’s more, its beautiful rooftop is a perfect vantage point from which to enjoy breathtaking views of St Peter’s, the Tiber’s bridges and its tree-lined path. Rooms from €250. (Via Federico Cesi 37, +39 06 3684; lemeridienviscontirome.com)
ESOTERIC Few visitors to one of Rome’s main attractions, the Vatican, do much exploring of the surrounding neighbourhood. Yet, Borgo Pio is one of Rome’s most charming neighbourhoods located just around the corner from St Peter’s Basilica, full to the brim with odd shops selling ecclesiastical goods, from stiff collars to golden chalices. The Hotel Sant’Anna, below, can be found here where, amid its luscious fabrics and marble surfaces, it perfectly evokes the neighbourhood’s Medieval spirit. Rooms from €150. (Borgo Pio, 134, +39 06 6880 1602; santannahotel.net)
RESPITE While the worst of Rome’s often suffocating heat has passed by September, temperatures can still rise into the 30s. On these occasions a rooftop pool in the middle of the city becomes an imperative. The Radisson Blu Es Hotel near Rome’s busy Termini Station has been providing this particular relief to business travellers for years. Its minimal rooftop pool and bar, right, along with its stunning views of the Roman skyline, make it a gem in the middle of the frenzied city. Rooms start from €200. (Via Filippo Turati 171, +39 06 444 841; radissonblu.com)
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Business
CEO INSIDER…
CMO and co-founder of Filo, Andrea Gattini is part of the new generation of tech-preneurs in Rome who seriously believe in the city’s potential as a cradle for startups. After taking part in LUISS Universities EnLabs, the company managed to secure €500k to develop their idea for an ingenious little device that stops you losing your belongings. Through a small Bluetooth tracker it helps you find anything you’ve lost with your smartphone and remembers where you last put something down – handy for flustered travellers.
Where would you take clients for an after work drink? Work is work, but everyone needs a break. If I’m looking for a casual place for drinking a good cocktail I often choose Jerry Thomas (Vicolo Cellini 30, +39 06 9684 5937; thejerrythomasproject. it). It’s a speakeasy-style bar that serves amazing cocktails, right. Don’t ask for vodka, you will be kindly asked to leave.
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What restaurants do you go to at weekends? I’m a meat-lover so I suggest trying Da Baffo (Via dei Fulvi 8, +39 06 7690 6733). It was a historic butcher’s shop that was transformed into a steak house. You’ll find any type of meat, from Danish to Argentine to bull tartare. When I need something more typical I go to Trattoria Vecchia Roma (Via Ferruccio, 12/b/c, +39 06 446 7143; trattoriavecchiaroma. it). They do the most typical Roman dishes, such as carbonara and amatriciana, to perfection. One little-known fact about Rome that you like to tell visitors? Here are two. One, there are more than 900 churches in Rome. Two, every night at the Trevi Fountain people launch more than €3,000 worth of coins into its waters.
ALBERTO BLASETTI
What’s good about doing business in Rome? If you’re planning to do business in Italy you must consider Rome as your headquarters. Rome is one of the most active Italian cities in business and it counts plenty of young talent-preneurs. PiCampus and LUISS EnLabs, for instance, are two of the best environments that help startups, like Filo, to grow and scale their business.
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Business
A DAY IN THE LIFE
I LOVE VISITING …
BRYAN BROPHY
Sigmar Recruitment CCO Robert Mac Giolla Phádraig is the driving force behind the “Ireland, Gateway to Europe” trade mission that travels to California this month to boost transatlantic trade.
6am My 10-month-old alarm clock, ie beautiful third daughter, wakes me every morning without fail. This is soon followed by two more little bedheaded beauties tiptoeing into my bedroom for a cuddle before I “swan off” to work, as my wife calls it (I have to admit that it does often feel like this as I love what I do). I catch the news on Morning Ireland as I drive to work and flick through The Irish Times business pages as I pick up my habitual morning coffee and porridge in Munchies on Baggot Street. 8am I like to arrive early and typically spend the first hour dealing with overnight developments and activating meetings for the days ahead. As chief commercial officer at Sigmar Recruitment, I work with an amazing team of 120 who have a shared commitment to succeed, which creates a truly unique culture built on autonomy, where we all act and behave like founders. 9am I immerse myself in the action, tendering for new business, designing talent solutions for clients and interviewing for staff – we recently announced the creation of 150 jobs. I’m also currently busy designing a compact MBA programme for our leadership team with Trinity Business School and University of Notre Dame. 10.30am This is my meeting time – clients, collaborators and stakeholders. I like to go to Residence as it’s close by and private. I’m also founder of the Talent Summit, Ireland’s largest HR and leadership conference, that promotes better workplaces and better working lives. This, for me, is the North Star in terms of purpose
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SAN FRANCISCO There is no other city as vibrant or as innovative from a business perspective. The energy is infectious and I always leave San Fran a little drained but full of hope and aspiration for my ventures back in Ireland. Our trade mission this month is our third time bringing IGTE back to the Bay Area and we are very excited to return.
and puts us at the centre of the rapidly changing world of work. I’m also plotting a Talent Talks live event in the National Gallery for October. 1pm I hit the gym at least three days a week and use this time to listen to podcasts and research speakers for upcoming events. The afternoon is usually bustling as corporate America awakens so I often dine “al desko”. We are also co-founders of “Ireland, Gateway to Europe” (gatewaytoeurope.com) a trade mission we have been bringing to the US for the past six years and this year we are bringing a delegation of 50 business leaders on a three-day mission to Palo Alto and San Francisco on September 26-27. As a result, my afternoons are currently jam-packed with calls as the sun moves from East to West.
BOSTON I’m on the advisory board of the Boston College, Ireland Business Council, which brings me to Boston frequently. I love staying at the Liberty Hotel – a former jail overlooking Charles River, with a great running track over to Cambridge and back. It’s also close to 75 Chestnut – one of the best neighbourhood restaurants in Boston – and a short train ride to the JFK Library and Museum.
6pm If entertaining clients, I like to go to Suesey Street, Fitzwilliam Place, but most days I try to leave the office by 6.15pm. As much as I enjoy what I do, there is nothing like the excitement I feel when I reach Bushy Park, knowing that just around the corner I’m about to see my family. 8pm Grab a bite to eat and maybe jump on a couple of calls with clients on the West Coast. Read a couple of pages before bed – currently enjoying Shifting Gears by Ryan O’Reilly, a super take on resilience and motivation. Weekends With my girls – goblin hunting in the forest is the latest. Might do Foam in Terenure for breakfast and, if we’re lucky, the odd date night: TapHouse in Ranelagh if going casual, or Shanahan’s on the Green if going all out.
NICE We’ve been lucky enough to bring our Sigmar team away on our Christmas party each year and hit Nice twice in recent times. A great base to explore all the French Riviera has to offer, from lunch outside Café de Paris in Monaco, watching how the other half live, to visiting stunning, hilltop, Medieval towns such as St Paul de Vence or Éze.
NEW APPOINTMENT Arthur Cox is delighted to announce the appointment of Phil Cody as the new resident partner in New York.. ARTHUR COX ONE ROCKEFELLER PLAZA, NEW YORK, NY 10020
t: +1 212 782 3290 e: phil.cody@arthurcox.com
Business Hotel
HAMBURG AHOY
Mel Mullan says guten tag to Sir Nikolai, a new boutique hotel whose swish interiors belie its trading past.
I
f the walls of Sir Nikolai could talk, they would share stories of times gone by in Hamburg’s Old Town, trading teas and spices on the city’s waterfront. In more recent times, the former warehouse has been carefully restored and the interiors reworked by Dutch design duo FG Stijl, to create a thoroughly modern and luxurious boutique hotel. It opened its doors this June with 94 bright and characterful bedrooms: plush chaises longues, brass drinks trollies, vintage rugs and curated artworks. Get some work done in the
hotel’s Library – or procrastinate on The Patio, where a retractable, glass roof floods the space with natural daylight. The hotel’s Izakaya Asian Kitchen and Bar, meanwhile, offers shared-dining lunches and dinners – suitable for brainstorming with colleagues, all while enjoying views over the Nikolaifleet Canal. Within a short-walking distance of the high-tech HafenCity district – and a Subway stop – it offers easy access to all areas of Hamburg. Rooms from €172 per night. (Katharinenstraße 29, +49 40 299 966 60; designhotels.com)
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Hamburg daily.
TORONTO If you’re looking for a hotel that rocks, check out the super-swanky Bisha Hotel – Lenny Kravitz and his design company created interiors for an entire floor. For all its rock star origins, it’s surprisingly understated – well, if you consider a rooftop restaurant and bar overlooking an infinity pool subtle. Prices on request. (Blue Jays Way, +1 416 551 2800; bisha.com)
LONDON Looking for the hottest hot-desk in town? Mayfair’s Chess Club is a private members’ affair – and six-storey townhouse – whose evening events, such as wine and supper clubs, encourage discussions and networking in a new way. Annual membership £450 plus £200 joining fee. (1a Chesterfield Street, +44 207 495 6171; chessclublondon.com)
MARTIN MEN DEZ
ANNABEL ELSTON
NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK
BARCELONA The fifth Room Mate hotel to arrive in the city, Room Mate Gerard maintains the funky decor and energy of its sister sites, including city views from its rooftop pool. Situated in Eixample, next to the Gothic quarter, the hotel offers hearty breakfasts until noon and informative city guides. Rooms from €150. (Carrer d’Ausiàs March, +34 93 182 8031; room-matehotels.com) 118 |
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Building the present, creating the future Delivering sustainable construction solutions, within budget and on time, for: · FDI Hi-Tech Facilities · Pharmaceutical · Biopharma · Healthcare Facilities · Commercial Offices · Educational · Cleanrooms · Agri/ Dairy Food · Infrastructure · PPP Investment And FM Services
www.bamireland.ie
Building in Ireland for 60 years; it’s in our DNA
Business
6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT people for who they are – this philosophy has ensured the Voxpro family is as highperforming as it is diverse.
3 LILLI FORBERG
Always act like a small company. Voxpro started with six people in an office above a pub. By the end of 2017 we’ll employ 3,000 globally but I still have the mentality that we’re six people. The day you start believing you’re a big company is the day you close your doors, because you lose the competitive advantage of agility. Oh – and if you’re starting up, do consider office space above a pub, there are obvious benefits.
DAN KIELY is the co-founder of Voxpro, an Irish tech company that provides customer experience, IT support and sales operation solutions to partners including Airbnb, Google, Stripe and Nest. Voxpro currently employs around 2,500 people across offices in Ireland, Greece, the US, Bucharest, Romania and the Philippines.
1
Be relentless about uniqueness. A couple of years ago I rewrote our company values. One of the five read: “We’re relentless in the pursuit of operational beauty.” I remember presenting it to the board – they thought I was on drugs. Everybody swore they would never say the words “operational beauty”. The easiest thing would have been to just give up and replace the word “beauty” with “excellence” but I was determined that we had to be unique, so I persisted. Three years later everyone in the company
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says the words regularly. I’m now thinking of trademarking them!
2
Never put the goods ahead of being good. Last year we were looking to launch our second centre of excellence in the US. We were considering Raleigh in North Carolina but suddenly the State introduced a law that compelled transgender people to use the bathroom matching the sex listed on their birth cert. We immediately pulled out. Good business is all about respecting and celebrating
4
There’s no business without show business. Huge colourful events, visually striking offices and a constantly changing work day – that’s Voxpro. A great place to work is one part business, one part show business. People need entertainment in their lives.
5
Throw yourself off the cliff and assemble the airplane on the way down. If I had said “Sorry no, we can’t do that” when Google or Airbnb approached us all those years ago, Voxpro would still be a local Cork company. Once you commit to the impossible, you’ll constantly surprise yourself.
6
Enjoy the wins. When I achieve something, my natural instinct is to immediately look towards the next thing and start working on it straight away. My wife and business partner, Linda, always tells me to take some time to enjoy the wins instead of immediately looking for the next ones. And Linda’s rarely wrong, so I listen.
Dan’s
SMART CITY
DESTINATION Venice constantly surprises me. Every time I think I’ve seen all the city has to offer, I discover even more stunning architecture, world-class hotels, and romantic corners. And of course there are the beautiful islands just off Venice – Burano is a must-see.
SLEEP Hotel Cipriani is stunning, from the customer service to rooms to its boat service. The location is also perfect if looking to escape the crowds. And Airbnb is increasingly my go-to because the choice is astonishing, from budget to luxury and everything in between. belmond.com
EAT Arrive by gondola at Ristorante Da Ivo, and dine on the best seafood in Venice while looking out over the canals. The atmosphere is fantastic and the clientele includes Venetians, tourists, world leaders and A-listers. ristorantedaivo.it
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Venice five times per week.
FOR SALE
LIFFEY PARK
technology campus leixlip, co. kildare, ireland
Rare opportunity to acquire one of the largest and best serviced, world class, high tech facilities in Ireland. • Located on the outskirts of Leixlip, immediately to the south of the M4 motorway, affording rapid access to Dublin City (21km), Dublin Airport (27km) and Dublin Port (33km)
per annum (35.2% occupied) from five tenants • Significant potential for rental growth in the short term through leasing the remaining vacant accommodation
• Quality office, warehouse / distribution, • Approx. 28.4 ha (70 acres) of clean room and manufacturing undeveloped land affords potential accommodation extends to approx. for additional development (subject to 136,000 sq. m. (1.46m sq. ft.) on a site of planning permission) approx. 78.7 ha (194.5 acres) • Currently producing a gross rental income of approximately €3.8 million
• The lands are predominately zoned Objective H “Industrial and
Warehousing” under the recently adopted Kildare Development Plan 2017 – 2023 • Benefits from a 16 MVA electrical supply serving an onsite 110kV substation • Eminently suitable for significant data centre usage (subject to planning permission), both in the existing buildings on site, or in newly developed buildings
For more information please contact sole selling agents CBRE or visit:
www.liffeypark.com WILLIE NORSE +353 1 618 5529 willie.norse@cbre.com
JARLATH LYNN +353 1 618 5728 jarlath.lynn@cbre.com
PETER GARRIGAN +353 1 618 5796 peter.garrigan@cbre.com
DAVID SCULLY +353 1 618 5544 david.scully@cbre.com
ADVERTORIAL
Escape to... LOUGH KEY FOREST & ACTIVITY PARK, BOYLE, CO ROSCOMMON Enter our world of Adventure Fun for all the family! It’s the perfect place to do as much or as little as you like. The Park encompasses a landmark cluster of unique attractions offering gentle leisurely pursuits or energetic activities. Lough Key offers great value for a full day out but also offers plenty of activities to keep everyone occupied for a longer stay! You can spend funfilled hours experiencing the quests in the energetic Boda Borg, suitable for adults and children over 7 yrs. The Boda Borg is divided into 15 Quests which contain up to 47 individual challenges. To survive the Quests you will need to employ skills you may not even be aware you have. Teamwork, ingenuity and trial and error! The only requirement is a minimum of 3 people per team & maximum 5. Pre-Booking recommended. Watch the younger children discover a magical land of stimulating and innovative play equipment in the Adventure Play Kingdom. The outdoor Adventure Play Kingdom is a dynamic, colourful and safe environment that will keep children of all ages entertained for hours.
Allow yourself to be taken back in time on the Lough Key Experience as you are guided through the old 19th century servant tunnels that once belonged to Rockingham House. You will be blown away by the views from the refurbished Moylurg Viewing Tower and experience Ireland’s only Tree Canopy Walk as it gently rises above the forest floor. This is a selfguided tour which allows you get lost in time and a tour that can be enjoyed at your own pace. Guided Tours are also available at any time of the year for groups of at least 15 people. The Lough Key Experience is fully wheelchair accessible and buggy/pram accessible. The Beautiful Moylurg Room, boasting stunning views of Lough Key, is an ideal room for a private event, meeting or corporate launches. Revive & Re-energise in The Lakeside Café, Enjoy the fabulous vista over Lough Key from the Lakeside café, inside or from the outdoor deck. You can avail of our Fairtrade Puro Coffee with homemade sweet treats or freshly made salad choices, Pizzas or delicious soups.
Thinking of spending a few days enjoying Lough Key and Roscommon, you can stay in our newly renovated caravan and campsite. The site has 40 secluded pitches and forest or open tent spaces. Newly renovated shower and toilet block, Electrical points, and recreational activities. It is open February to October. Or you can moor your boat on the 50 Berth Marina with all facilities to go with it. Lots of other activities in the park from Boat trips, Rowing boats, Bike Hire for adults and children, Woodland Segway Glides, historical Walking trails and Mini Jeep drives for the children!
For more details log on to www.loughkey.ie. You can call us on 071 9673122 or email bookings@loughkey.ie Keep up to date on social media - Lough Key Forest & Activity Park Facebook, Twitter Instagram Visitor Centre and Café open all year round. Coming soon: Lough SpooKey, Our Halloween festival Oct 28th to Nov 5th.
©2017 Marvel
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH GEI131 PA
Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.
Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome aboard 126 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Boxsets 138 Music & Radio
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Welcome aboard Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!
Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.
In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on Youtube.
Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. . Conas atá tú? Ho w are you? Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend
Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number. Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com
Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.
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Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222
Traditional Steak & Seafood Restaurant and Bar
On the banks of the Liffey in the picturesque Strawberry Beds, 15mins from the city
Traditional Irish Music 7 Nights
Serving the finest seafood & traditional dishes
Anglers Rest, Strawberry Beds, Chapelizod, Dublin 20 Ph: 353 (01) 820 4351 Email: info@theanglersrest.ie www.theanglersrest.ie
Dohen y & Nesbitt 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N
Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…
One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre. Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink. Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.
Voted overall
best pub in Ireland in the hospitality Ireland awards
W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie
Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.
Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.
To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.
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Are you ready for take-off and landing? • Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode?
Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers. Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/ take-off/initial climb/approach/ landing.
• Is your seatback fully upright? • Is your armrest down? • Is your tabletop stowed? • Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you? To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting. If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.
Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.
OPEN DAY
y 30th Saturdam r Septe be
2017
• Excellent Academic Results • Small Class Sizes • Broad Subject Range • Music School & Performing Arts Acadamy • Extra-Curricular Programme • Extensive Sports Facilities • 7 Day Boarding (10yrs+) • Short-Term Boarding Options • Extended Day Care One Campus, One Family
Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland. Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.
OPEN DAILY 12.30PM 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590
Your comfort and safety Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs. Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew. Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water. Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual. Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster. 128 |
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A safe flight for everyone. It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:
Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.
Airbus 319
Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécurité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr
Please do
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Airbus 330
-200
For your Safety
Fógr a Sábh áilteacht Pour votre Sécurité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Seguridad
• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew. • Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.
not remov
Per la vostr a Sicurezza Säke rhet omb ord Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Pleas e do
ON Airplane
ON Airplane
not remo
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Aircraft
Mode
Mode
ON Airplane Mode
ON Airplane Mode
• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment. • We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. • Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated. • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board. • Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited. • You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.
In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.
MONAGHAN’S
CASHMERE STORE Established 1960
“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide
DISCOVER THE INTRIGUING TALE OF IRISH WHISKEY!
Tom & Suzanne Monaghan
Biggest Selection of Irish Whiskey Whiskey & Brunch Experience Guided tours Whiskey courses Venue hire Voted Whiskey tastings Top 10 in Dublin
A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom and Suzanne Monaghan in their store in Dublin’s Royal Hibernian Way. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere selling a wide range of classic sweaters in the latest styles and colours for both men and women. As they celebrate 57 years Tom and Suzanne would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents (terms and conditions apply)
BOOK NOW!
+353 (0) 1 525 0970 WWW.IRISHWHISKEYMUSEUM.IE 119 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2
(OPPOSITE MAIN ENTRANCE OF TRINITY COLLEGE)
M Monaghan’s Cashmere, Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451
www.monaghanscashmere.ie
The Boss Baby
A suit-wearing briefcase-carrying baby pairs up with his seven-yearold brother to stop the dastardly plot of the CEO of Puppy Co.
Box Office Movies Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky featuring a number of Oscar nominated films and actors.
Beauty and the Beast
PG
129 mins | Drama A monstrous-looking prince and a young woman fall in love. Stars Emma Watson, Dan Stevens EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN
Lost City of Z
PG13
Chips
R
Gifted
PG13
Guardians of the Galaxy Vol 2
96 mins | Comedy Lifelong pals risk it all by embarking on a daring bid. Stars Joey King, Morgan Freeman, Peter Serafinowicz
EN DE
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN
The Fate of The Furious
The Founder
Snatched
R
Table 19
91 mins | Action A young woman travels with her mother to an exotic paradise. Stars Amy Schumer, Goldie Hawn, Joan Cusack
87 mins | Comedy An ex-maid of honour sits with randomers at a wedding. Stars Anna Kendrick, Lisa Kudrow, Stephen Merchant
EN FR DE CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
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Going in Style
101 mins | Drama Frank is drawn into a custody battle with his mother. Stars Chris Evans, Mckenna Grace, Lindsay Duncan
141 mins | Action Explorer Colonel Percival Fawcett disappears in the Amazon. Stars Charlie Hunnam, Robert Pattinson, Sienna Miller
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PG13
100 mins | Action A newbie is teamed with a pro at the Highway Patrol. Stars Michael Peña, Dax Shepard, Jessica McNamee
PG13
PG13
PG13
136 mins | Action The team unravels the mystery of Peter‘s true parentage. Stars Chris Pratt, Zoe Saldana
136 mins | Action A mysterious woman seduces Dom into terrorism and betrayal. Stars Vin Diesel, Jason Statham, Dwayne Johnson
115 mins | Biography A businessman turns McDonald‘s into a global success. Stars Michael Keaton, Nick Offerman, John Carroll Lynch
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
PG13
©2017 Marvel
Guardians of the Galaxy OUR Vol 2 ILM Set toOthe of T P Fbackdrop E C I Awesome Mixtape #2, CHO
‘Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 2‘ continues the team‘s adventures as they unravel the mystery of Peter Quill‘s true parentage.
OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO
Hidden Figures
PG
Kong: Skull Island
PG13
Life
R
Live by Night
R
Logan
R
127 mins | Biography Three brilliant AfricanAmerican women work at NASA. Stars Taraji P Henson, Octavia Spencer, Janelle Monáe
118 mins | Action Scientists explore an uncharted island in the Pacific. Stars Tom Hiddleston, Brie Larson Samuel L Jackson
100 mins | Horror A rapidly evolving life form threatens life on Earth. Stars Jake Gyllenhaal, Rebecca Ferguson, Ryan Reynolds
123 mins | Crime Gangsters set up shop during the Prohibition era. Stars Ben Affleck, Elle Fanning, Brendan Gleeson
137 mins | Action A weary Logan cares for an ailing Professor X. Stars Hugh Jackman, Patrick Stewart, Dafne Keen
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES ADEN
EN FR DE IT ES
The Great Wall
PG13
103 mins | Action A mercenary is imprisoned within the Great Wall of China. Stars Matt Damon, Tian Jing, Willem Dafoe EN
The Zookeeper‘s Wife
PG13
Unforgettable
R
The Boss Baby
PG
127 mins | Biography Warsaw Zoo keepers help save hundreds of lives. Stars Jessica Chastain, Johan Heldenbergh, Daniel Brühl
100 mins | Drama A woman plans to make life hell for her ex-husband‘s wife. Stars Rosario Dawson, Katherine Heigl, Geoff Stults
97 mins | KidZone A suit-wearing baby goes to stop plot of CEO of Puppy Co. Voiced by Alec Baldwin, Steve Buscemi, Jimmy Kimmel
EN FR DE
EN DE IT ADEN CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES
The Lego Batman Movie
PG
104 mins | KidZone Bruce Wayne raises a boy he has adopted. Voiced by Will Arnett, Michael Cera, Rosario Dawson EN FR DE IT ES ADEN
G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.
Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |
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Movie Classics Alvin and the Chipmunks: Chipwrecked 86 mins | Voiced by Justin Long
Analyze This 103 mins | Stars Robert De Niro, Billy Crystal
We also provide a selection of classic movies to choose from. Also on board are some Miamithemed movies such as Analyze This, Marley and Me and Police Academy: Assignment Miami Beach to celebrate our newest route. A selection of Irish short films and features are also available.
Avatar PG13 162 mins | Stars Sam Worthington, Zoe Saldana
Bad Boys R 119 mins | Stars Will Smith, Martin Lawrence, Lisa Boyle
Blade 120 mins | Stars Wesley Snipes, Stephen Dorff
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR
EN
Chronicle PG13 81 mins | Stars Dane DeHaan, Alex Russell
Deadpool 106 mins | Stars Ryan Reynolds, Morena Baccarin
Fantastic Four PG13 105 mins | Stars Ioan Gruffudd, Chris Evans
Goldfinger PG 110 mins | Stars Sean Connery, Honor Blackman
EN
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
Hancock PG13 92 mins | Stars Will Smith, Charlize Theron
In Her Shoes PG13 130 mins | Stars Toni Collette, Cameron Diaz
Interstellar PG13 169 mins | Stars Anne Hathaway, Jessica Chastain
Jupiter PG13 Ascending 127 mins | Stars Mila Kunis
Man of Steel PG13 143 mins | Stars Henry Cavill, Amy Adams
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
Marley & Me PG 115 mins | Stars Owen Wilson, Jennifer Aniston
Police Academy PG 5: Assignment Miami Beach 90 mins | Stars Bubba Smith
Rush Hour PG13 96 mins | Stars Jackie Chan, Chris Tucker, Ken Leung
Superman PG (1978) 143 mins | Stars Christopher Reeve
The Birdcage 117 mins | Stars Robin Williams, Gene Hackman
EN
EN FR DE
EN FR
EN
The Mask PG13 101 mins | Stars Jim Carrey, Cameron Diaz
The Other PG13 Woman 107 mins | Stars Kate Upton, Leslie Mann
The PG13 Wolverine 118 mins | Stars Hugh Jackman
There‘s Something About Mary 115 mins | Stars Cameron Diaz
EN FR DE IT
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
EN FR DE ES
G
EN FR DE IT ES
Caddyshack 98 mins | Stars Chevy Chase, Bill Murray
R
EN FR DE IT CCEN
R
R
R
R
R
X-Men: PG13 First Class 130 mins | Stars James McAvoy EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S
Blue PG13 Shawl 6 mins | Stars Brendan Morris, Emilie O‘Driscoll
Handsome R Devil 95 mins | Stars Fionn O‘Shea, Andrew Scott
Hidden PG13 Potential 11 mins | Stars Roisin Keogh, Bailey Byrne
Leave PG13 15 mins | Stars Moe Dunford, Kathy Rose O’Brien
Máthair PG13 4 mins | Stars Blaithin McCann, Louise Smith
Spooky PG13 Stakeout 90 mins | Stars Alix Bailey, Darragh Barron
Stuama PG13 17 mins | Stars Enda Clarke, Fred McCloskey, Joe Greaney
The PG13 Clockmaker ’s Dream 14 mins | Voiced by Joe Mullins
EN
EN
EN
EN
ENS IRISH
EN
ENS IRISH
EN
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LIFEST YLE
TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.
Westworld Welcome to Westworld, a playground for the rich where anything goes. In this Old West amusement park, guests interact with lifelike robots in scenarios and storylines developed by the park management. Guests are allowed to carry out their wildest fantasies. However, what if the robotic hosts were to develop consciousness? Season 1, Episodes 1 & 2 are featured on board.
BUSINESS
Videojug A selection of how-to videos containing tips and advice on a range of topics including beauty, style, food and drink, money and careers.
D O C U M E N TA R Y
Business Planet, Real Economy Projects behind the driving force of the European economy CNBC Meets Tania Bryer speaks to soprano singer Jessye Norman CNN: Leading Women S1, EP43 & 44, Yuriko Koike, Tokyo’s first female governor CNN: Passion to Portfolio S1, EP3, Sara Story launched her interior design company Follow the Leader S1, EP2, Music mogul Lyor Cohen Leaders with Lacqua Ana Botín talks about her vision Science/Hi-Tech/Innovation Scientific development C O M E DY
Man Seeking Woman S1, EP1 & 2, Josh looks for love Mom S3, EP4 & 5, A tale of single mom Christy and her two kids New Girl S5, EP3 & 4, Jess lives with Schmidt, Nick and Winston The Big Bang Theory S9, EP3, 4 & 5, Two socially awkward scientists and their friends You‘re the Worst S1, EP1 & 2, Two self-destructive people fall in love 134 |
50 Ways to Kill Your Mammies S3, EP2, New Orleans Brain Games 4 S1, EP2, Where does morality come from? Building Ireland S2, EP2, Irish building and engineering Cake Boss S7, EP2, Buddy creates a carnival cake Fly Over Films S1, EP1, Stunning full HD videos Glenveagh One-Off Special, the story of Henry McIlhenny How Do They Do It? S12, EP6, Road Rollers, Canned Bread and Vertu Phones How to Win at Everything S1, EP2, Football freestyling Lyndey Milan’s Taste of Ireland S1, EP1, Food and wine with Lyndey Neven’s Food Trails: Basque Country & La Rioja S8, EP1, Neven visits his mentor Sr Juan Mari Arzak
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3 Scientists Walk into a Bar S1, EP1, Three scientists explore weather phenomenon A Season at The Juilliard School S1, EP2, Students end-of-term performances America: Facts vs Fiction S3, EP7, Myths and truth Baby Animals in our World S1, EP1, Baby animals Bazaar S2, EP4, Treasures of the Islamic World Culturefox S1, EP10, A guide to Irish cultural events Ireland Great Visitor Attractions One-Off Special, Gordon T Ledbetter explores Ireland Robert Redford‘s The West S1, EP1, Jesse James forms a gang The Story of God with Morgan Freeman S1, EP3, Morgan comes face to face with a serial killer Wild Jobs S1, EP1, The decline of elephants in Namibia DR AMA
Big Little Lies S1, EP1, A death at a school fundraiser Blindspot S1, EP1 & 2, Jane Doe tries to discover her past
Idris Elba: No Limits British actor Idris Elba gets the chance to fulfil his childhood dream of taking part in the prestigious Circuit of Ireland race with help from top rally driver Jimmy McRae. He meets Ford manufacturers and takes BARS rally licence test before flying to Ireland to tackle the winding country roads. Season 1, Episode 1 is featured on board.
SPORT
Explorers: Adventures of the Century S1, EP1, Big Wave Legends At Pororoca, Surfing The Amazon Maradona S1, EP2, Spectacular moments of skill More Than a Game S1, EP2, The Black Power Salute at the 1968 Olympics Tennis Stars S1, EP1, Jo-Wilfired Tsonga is the gentleman of the tennis court K I DZ O N E
Dora the Explorer S7, EP5, Dora‘s Fantastic Gymnastics Adventure Garfield Compilation, A compilation of Garfield toons! Giving Tales S1, EP1–9, Hans Christian Anderson‘s fairy tales KC Undercover S1, EP4, KC and Ernie team up with their spy grandparents Learn to Draw Compilation, Step-by-step drawing show presented by cartoonist Øistein SpongeBob Squarepants S3, EP12, Spongebob and Patrick‘s adventures NEWS & EVENTS
In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.
WELCOME TO DUBLIN'S FINEST GASTROPUB The Old Spot offers a sophisticated dining experience within a warm and relaxed pub atmosphere. Enjoy award-winning food, fine wines, craft beers and great service to match.
Recommended by the Michelin 'Eating out in Pubs' Guide 2016 & 2017
14 Bath Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4. For reservations please contact us: T: +353 1 660 5599 | E: info@theoldspot.ie | Online reservations: www.theoldspot.ie
See the city like a local. The DoDublin Card includes: • • • • •
Direct Airlink Transfer Hop on Hop off City Tour Dublin Bus Travel FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum Entry
3 Day Card for €33
Tickets at the Bus & Travel Information Desk or Airlink Bus Stop dodublin.ie
Dublin’s Best Sightseeing & Travel Pass
The Leftovers Season 2
Boxsets
In the second season of this enthralling series, Kevin and others pick up the pieces in the aftermath of the Mapleton riots, Laurie tries to spread the word about the dangers of the Guilty Remnant, Nora awakens in the midst of an earthquake to find Kevin missing, Matt seeks answers about his wife's condition, and much more.
Choose from five boxsets to watch on board today. Delve into historical time-travel series, Outlander, the horror drama The Walking Dead or the post-apocalyptic The Leftovers. Also on board are Vikings and Gotham.
Created by Damon Lindelof, Emmy Award winner for Lost, and acclaimed novelist Tom Perrotta. Cast regulars for season two include Justin Theroux, Amy Brenneman, Christopher Eccleston, Liv Tyler, Carrie Coon, Ann Dowd, Margaret Qualley, Chris Zylka, Regina King, Kevin Carroll, Jovan Adepo and Janel Moloney. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 2.
The Walking Dead, Season 6/7 Episode 9: Daryl, Abraham and Sasha face-off against the Saviors. Episode 10: Rick and Daryl cross paths with Jesus. Episode 11: Jesus takes Rick and the group to the Hilltop Colony. Episode 12: Rick leads a surprise attack against the Saviors. Episode 13: Carol and Maggie must fight for their lives. Episode 14: A supply run led by Daryl turns chaotic. Episode 15: Rick and Morgan set out in the search for Carol. Episode 16: Morgan continues his search for Carol. Episode 1: Rick and the group kneel helplessly as they suffer a loss. Episode 2: Carol and Morgan are brought to a community.
Vikings, Season 4 Episode 1: Events unfold beyond Ragnar‘s control. Episode 2: Ragnar and Floki are still at odds. Episode 3: Ragnar tells Floki he has to pay a price for his actions. Episode 4: Ragnar gets to know the new slave woman. Episode 5: Halfdan the Black arrives in Kattegat. Episode 6: Ragnar reveals his plan to raid Paris again. Episode 7: Ragnar carries out his plan of attack. Episode 8: After facing defeat, Ragnar refuses to retreat. Episode 9: The Vikings finally reach the river. Episode 10: Ragnar must fight against Rollo.
Gotham, Season 3 Episode 1: Gordon looks for answers about the escapees. Episode 2: Fish Mooney takes matters into her own hands. Episode 3: A hypnotist arrives in Gotham to search for his sister. Episode 4: Penguin gains leverage over Gotham City. Episode 5: Penguin struggles to uphold his promises to the city. Episode 6: Mad Hatter sets his eyes on his next victims. Episode 7: Jim Gordon gets led on a psychedelic trip. Episode 8: Captain Barnes starts to go mad. Episode 9: Gordon and Bullock become suspicious of Barnes. Episode 10: A threat to Leslie and Mario is exposed.
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Outlander Season 2 Season two of this historical time-travel series finds Claire (played by award-winning Irish actress Caitriona Balfe), Jamie and Murtagh in Paris as they plan to infiltrate the Royal Court of France, forge allegiances and disrupt the Jacobite Rebellion. The earthiness and organic colours of the Scottish Highlands have been exchanged for stylish Parisian costumes, colours and architecture, but the wildness of the Highlands is never far away as life-changing battles loom on the horizon for all concerned. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 2.
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Harry Styles Going it alone, Harry Styles pays tribute to classic rock’n’roll and has the space he needs to soar as a vocalist. The lead single, Sign of the Times, is a sky-scraping ballad that has topped charts in several countries, including Australia, Canada, the UK and the US.
Music & Radio Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums. On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.
CL ASSIC AL
The Blue of the Night Carl Corcoran, RTÉ Lyric FM EASY LISTENING
An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels INDIE
Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM IRISH
POP
Late Date Fiachna Ó Braonáin, RTÉ Radio 1 Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs The Greatest Hits of All Time Michael Comyn, RTÉ Gold The Big Breakfast with Cooper & Luke 98FM The Nicky Byrne Show with Jenny Greene RTÉ 2fm
Lost in Music As today becomes tonight, it’s time to feel right at home again with Louise Duffy. Whether you’re cooking, studying or heading off to training, she delivers the essential soundtrack to your evening: two hours packed with music, fun and interviews. Come on in and get lost.
TA L K
Ceol na Gael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E
Happy Days with Clara Clara Murray, RTÉ Junior ROCK
Marty Miller Radio Nova
Documentary on One RTÉ Radio 1, Two documentaries on board: a brave Irishman whose bravery led to a campaign to name a warship after him and a couple who’ve had their smartphones taken away. Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk
Movies and Musicals The hugely popular Movies and Musicals on RTÉ lyric fm is the only national radio programme of its kind and features a broad range of soundtracks from early classics, right through to contemporary scores and hit songs from the world of musicals.
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Ward Thomas
We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!
Ward Thomas are a British country duo made up of twin sisters from Hampshire. Their new EP A Shorter Story is a covers album of the duo‘s country take on their favourite pop songs. Hailed as “Britain’s first country stars”, they’re bringing the genre to the UK.
2Cellos 2Cellos are a renowned Croatian cellist duo. Their new EP Score focuses on scores from famous films and television shows. It includes melodies from fantasy drama series Game of Thrones and songs from many blockbusters including tracks from the well-known composer Hans Zimmerman. ALL TIME FAVOURITES
AC/DC Let There Be Rock Aretha Franklin The Essential Aretha Franklin Barry Manilow Tryin‘ to Get the Feeling Billy Ocean Here You Are: The Best of Billy Ocean Elvis Presley Elvis Is Back! Elvis Presley The Wonder of You: Elvis with the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra Paul Simon Graceland A LT E R N AT I V E
Alexandra Savior Belladonna of Sadness Jimmy Eat World Integrity Blues MUNA About U The Black Moods Medicine The Shins Heartworms Vancouver Sleep Clinic Revival CL ASSIC AL
2Cellos Score Alexander Krichel Miroirs – Ravel Piano Works Benjamin Appl Heimat Mauro Peter & Helmut Deutsch Schumann: Dichterliebe & Selected Songs The Piano Guys Uncharted Various Artists Bill Turnbull‘s Relaxing Classics
COUNTRY
Brad Paisley Love and War Jessie James Decker Gold Kelsea Ballerini The First Time Kenny Chesney Cosmic Hallelujah Luke Combs This One‘s for You Ward Thomas A Shorter Story Willie Nelson God‘s Problem Child ELEC TRO
Faithless Sunday 8 PM Jean-Michel Jarre Electronica 1: The Time Machine Major Lazer Peace is the Mission Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Memories..Do Not Open Various Big Beats IR ISH
Celtic Thunder Emmet Cahill‘s Ireland Daithi In Flight Damien Dempsey Soulsun Hare Squead Supernormal Hermitage Green Live at the Curragower Bar Tim Chadwick Early Days
JA Z Z
David Orlowsky Trio Paris – Odessa Nick Finzer Hear & Now Preservation Hall Jazz Band So It Is Somi Petite Afrique Tony Bennett I Left my Heart in San Francisco Triosence Hidden Beauty M E TA L
Bullet for My Valentine Fever In Flames Clayman Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Judas Priest Turbo 30 Ozzy Osbourne Diary of a Madman Soilwork The Living Infinite OPER A
Leonard BernsteinACT01 West Side Story Paul Potts One Chance Plácido Domingo, Pablo Heras-Casado & Orquestra de la Comunitat Valenciana Verdi The London Oratory Schola Cantorum Boys Choir Sacred Treasures of England Various Sacred Duets Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets
P OP
ROCK
Aaron Carter LøVë Betty Who The Valley Harry Styles Harry Styles Pentatonix PTX, Vol IV – Classics
David Bowie No Plan John Mayer The Search for Everything Kasabian For Crying Out Loud
Rag‘n‘Bone Man Human Zara Larsson So Good
Mallory Knox Wired Sundara Karma Youth is Only Ever Fun in Retrospect
RNB
Aaliyah Age Ain‘t Nothing but a Number Charlie Wilson In It to Win It Khalid American Teen Saint Wknd Golden Youth Syd Fin Various Artists Throwback Grooves – Ministry of Sound
K I DZ O N E
Arthur Fiedler Classics For Children City of London Sinfonia; Stuart Hancock We‘re Going on a Bear Hunt Hans Christian Anderson Giving Tales Judson Mancebo Baby Orchestra Play Michael Jackson Ken Elkinson Around the Globe in a Lullaby Volume 2 Kidz Bop Kids Kidz Bop 30
AERLINGUS.COM |
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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport
Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal
Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?
YES Follow signs for Flight Connections
Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections
Where are you flying to?
NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.
USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate
Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can, collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status
Gate Information Screens
Passport Control and Security Screening
GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate
Have all your required forms filled out.
Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk
ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS
Follow signs for US Preclearance
Geataí Gates
101-335
Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections
Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.
Departure Gate
AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.
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If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.
Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow
401-426
Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance
Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.
Flight Connections for North American destinations
On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections. Which terminal are you flying from? For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge. Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security. Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.
EXPLORE LEARN DISCOVER
VIKING & MEDIEVAL DUBLIN VIKING DUBLIN
HISTORY ST MICHAEL’S HUNTERS TOWER
MEDIEVAL DUBLIN
St Michael’s Hill, Christ Church, Dublin 8 www.dublinia.ie
You've landed. Now take off around Dublin with the Leap Visitor Card
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Includes Airlink Airport - Dublin return Available at Dublin airport and at selected agents in Dublin city centre. Or purchase online at leapcard.ie Ticket agents: Dublin Bus Information Desk (T1 Arrivals) • Spar Shop (T2 Arrivals) For more information, visit leapcard.ie WE ARE ONE
Our European and North American Route Network
Edmonton Saskatoon
Calgary
Regina Winnipeg
Vancouver
Thunder Bay
Victoria Seattle Duluth
Traverse
Minneapolis Eugene
Boise
Milwaukee Madison
Sioux Falls
Medford
Grand Rapids
Omaha
Des Moines
Denver
Reno
Kansas City
Fort Wayne Akron Canton Chicago
Fresno Las Vegas Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Palm Springs Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego
Louisville
Wichita
San Francisco
Tulsa
Oklahoma City
Cincinnati
Phoenix Tucson
Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard
New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore
Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham
Columbia Charleston
El Paso Houston
Providence
Boston
Charlotte
Greenville Atlanta
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Austin
Honolulu Kahului
Greensboro
Knoxville
Memphis Little Rock
Halifax
Portland ME
Washington (National)
Lexington
Nashville
Albany
Hartford
Newark
Washington (Dulles)
Springfield
San Jose
Rochester
Pittsburgh
Moncton
Burlington Syracuse
Columbus Harrisburg
Dayton
Indianapolis
St Louis
Oakland
Buffalo
Detroit Cleveland
Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City
Toronto
Fredericton
Montreal
Ottawa
Portland OR
Sacramento
St. John’s
Quebec Fargo
New Orleans
Tallahassee Pensacola
San Antonio
Savannah
Jacksonville Gainesville
Orlando Tampa Fort Myers
West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale
Miami Key West
San Juan Aguadilla Ponce
We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to ten US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines. You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.
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Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)
Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.
Aberdeen Glasgow
Donegal
Newcastle
Belfast
Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester
Isle of Man
Knock
Dublin
Shannon Kerry
Edinburgh
Birmingham
Cork
London (Gatwick)
Warsaw
Düsseldorf
Southampton
Exeter
Newquay
s
Berlin
London (Heathrow) Bristol
Cardiff
Hamburg Amsterdam
Brussels Prague
Frankfurt Jersey
Paris
Stuttgart Vienna
Munich
Rennes
Budapest
Zurich
Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux
Toulouse
Santiago de Compostela
Bilbao
Montpellier Perpignan
Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa
Split
Marseille
Bourgas
Dubrovnik Rome
Barcelona
Naples
Madrid
Alicante Murcia Malaga Faro
Tenerife Gran Canaria
Lanzarote Fuerteventura
Corfu
Palma
Lisbon
Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!
Athens Catania
Izmir
Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.
Dublin
London Heathrow
Bahrain
Dubai
Abu Dhabi
Muscat
Kuala Lumpur Singapore
Johannesburg
Cape Town
Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)
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Perth Sydney
Melbourne
DUBLIN
New GUINNESS® BACON CHEESEBURGER Topped with Jameson bacon jam and GUINNESS cheese sauce, served with crisp lettuce and vine-ripened tomato.
HARD ROCK CAFE FLEET STREET • TEMPLE BAR DUBLIN 2 TEL: 671 7777 • HARDROCK.COM join hardrockrewards.com
DIVIDE AND
CONQUER NEW SHAREABLE PLATTERS
THIS IS TOO BIG TO KEEP TO YOURSELF ST. STEPHEN’S GREEN ~ TEMPLE BAR BLANCHARDSTOWN ~ DUNDRUM LIFFEY VALLEY ~ SWORDS
WWW.FRIDAYS.IE
Staying connected on board*
Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.
THE SMARICTE CHO
Aer Social
€6.95 $7.95
Mobile Network on board
With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.
1 Switch on
€13.95 $15.95
Aer Max
€29.95 $32.95
Wi-Fi on board in six steps
On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.
1 Switch on
Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.
Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi
2 Aeromobile
2 Connect
Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.
Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.
3 Welcome SMS
Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.
Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.
4 Connected
You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.
International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 146 |
Aer Surf
| AERLINGUS.COM
3 Purchase Internet Access
4 Payment
Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.
5 Username and Password
Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.
6 Connected
You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.
MARCO PIERRE WHITE
Historic O’Neill’s
STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN
DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER
the famous Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s
Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ... • Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous • Pour Your Own Pint tables Carvery serving only the finest Irish • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s Lonely Planet rate us as one of the our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a Top 5 Places to find ‘Real Irish food fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys in Dublin’ and malts • Irish Music and Traditional Irish • HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan Dancing 7 nights-a-week with major international league games. • Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Largest selection of local Irish can’t be beaten for quality and value. Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, 11 items plus tea/coffee, toast, jam representing as many of the local and butter is only €8.95, Pictured Craft Breweries as possible, rotating below. This special offer is available and guesting beers Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am.
LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week. The Chef carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery.
51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie
NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK
Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.
M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796
Supper club with live music every Friday night Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin
1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie
www.marcopierrewhite.ie
WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating. Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.
Aerlingus.com
ENJOY THE BEST OF DUBLIN
Traditional Irish Bars,
... BEFORE AND AFTER DARK
Dining & Accommodation
O S J
G
Fáilte Approved
Pub
Temple Bar, Dublin
GREAT MUSIC GREAT FOOD GREAT CRAIC GREAT STAY Livets
Spaondr
iFi W e e r F -
THE BEST OF DUBLIN ON YOUR DOORSTEP
LIVE TRADITIONAL MUSIC EVERY DAY & NIGHT
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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | VENICE
to say, your mind is teeming with questions but the trick is to prioritise what’s important and to be willing to improvise the rest (while remembering to keep an eye out for people in the wings gesticulating like traffic cops to help you find your light). It really is thrilling to throw caution to the wind and be “in the moment” – before you know it, you’re lying in the arms of a stranger (co-star) with a full house looking on, unsure of what’s going to happen next. I’ve performed Tannhäuser more than any other opera in my repertoire, including a bizarre performance one Christmas Eve in Kazakhstan, but nothing can compare to that particular evening in Venice. The usual sense of trepidation that accompanies singing one of the most challenging tenor roles gave way to an overwhelming sense of gratitude as I looked into that
Paul McNamara, top, presents his new show, Owen Wingrave, in Limerick, Cork and Dublin this September 9-16. Above, the dazzling Teatro La Fenice.
A DEBUT IN VENICE
n January this year, I was sitting in a barber’s chair in Leeds when I received a call asking if I’d be free the next day to take over the title role in a performance of Wagner’s Tannhäuser. At times like that there’s always a moment of hesitation as you weigh up the pros and cons, but 24 hours later I was being ferried by water taxi through the canals of Venice to the water entrance of the iconic opera house Teatro La Fenice. Jumping in to save a performance has the advantage that there just isn’t time to get nervous. A quick costume fitting was followed by a 90-minute rehearsal with the assistant director. “This is where they strip you off and ritually smear you with blood” – you raise an eyebrow, take note and move on to the next scene. Needless
I
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MICHELE CROSERA
FRANCES MARSHALL
Ahead of Opera Collective Ireland’s new touring show this September, its founder and tenor Paul McNamara recounts a pinch-me moment in Venice.
glorious auditorium glittering in the reflection of the light on stage. How lucky was I to be the right person, at the right place, at the right time. Wagner operas are famously long but the four and half hours of the performance flew. I was rewarded with supper (bigoli in salsa – a favourite pasta dish and a must in Venice) followed by a solitary moonlit walk through the deserted passageways of that incomparable city. A sense of contentment mixed with wonder that a path that started in the Belltable Theatre in Limerick had brought me to sing in the theatre where Verdi’s La Traviata and countless other masterpieces had their first performances. As I head to Limerick for Opera Collective Ireland’s production of Britten’s Owen Wingrave this September (operacollectiveireland. com), it’s heartening to know that the young singers are on the threshold of something that is very special indeed. Life as an opera singer may involve more work (and less glamour) than many suspect, but one thing is certain, it’s never dull!
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