Cara September 2014

CARA Magazine September 2014

September 2014

Golfer Paul McGinley Irish fashion designers

CAPTAIN

Dublin Theatre and Fringe Festivals

fantastic PAUL McGINLEY ON GOLF’S RYDER CUP

Shore thing

Lake Maggiore uncovered

San Francisco

Geek heaven

Tech tour of San Francisco

Malaga

Moorish Malaga

Follow the Caliphate Trail

Lake Maggiore

City of drama

Dublin’s theatre festivals

Rome Dusseldorf

PLUS

WE MEET THE IRISH FASHION DESIGNERS

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

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Contents SEPTEMBER 2014

42

94 San Fran’s tech trek

Fashion folk

Check in 04 ARRIVALS We welcome newbies at Dublin’s T2 this summer 07

CHECK IN What’s new in the arts, fashion, sports, food and drink scene

18

ON MY TRAVELS New places provide inspiration for theatre producer Camille Donegan

20 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Actress Kelly Campbell’s holiday scrapbook 22 SMART TRAVELLER Thompson Aero Seating’s Gary Montgomery on Munich 24 OUTER LIMITS Ben Webb explores the Lycra-clad world of Irish endurance racing 26 SWIM, CYCLE, RUN Power dressing by Ruth Anna Coss

Features

28 BEAN THERE Al Higgins smells the coffee and tea festival

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30 RICH PICKINGS Harvest festivals are so this season, finds Aingeala Flannery 32 WEEKENDER Mum-to-be Clare Meredith puts her feet up at Castle Leslie 34 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican spotlights street photography, and chats to Matthew Thomas

42 A CUT ABOVE The new wave of Irish fashion designers by Alanna Gallagher 54 DRAMATIC DUBLIN Eithne Shortall treads the city’s theatrical haunts 68 SOUTHERN SOUL Tamara Thiessen joins the Caliphate trail in Malaga 80 THE CLASS LAKE Italy’s Lake Maggiore makes a big splash for John Butler

68 Blooming Malaga

119

IRON MAN Golfer Paul McGinley tees off with David Robbins

94 VALLEY OF THE GEEKS Karlin Lillington goes the full nerd in Silicon Valley 106 7 BEST ISLANDS Aspirational idylls by Aoife O’Riordain 114 HOT STUFF Frances Power gets a masterclass in glass-blowing

Roman delights

Regulars 116 48 HOURS IN DÜSSELDORF Bloggers Josh O’Neal and Alix Hopfengärtner’s best bits 119 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO ROME Gallery owner Lorcan O’Neill unveils his favourite treasures 122 SPOTLIGHT Ellen Lunney has a fling with Glasgow 125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT All new inflight news and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Patrick Loureiro, born on an Aer Lingus plane.

Contributors EDITORIAL Editor Frances Power Acting Editor Dave Robbins Deputy Editor Lucy White Assistant Editor Niamh Wade Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Editorial Assistant Ellen Lunney Contributors Ruth Anna Coss, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes

Ei Eithne Shortall is the chief arts writer

fo The Sunday Times, Ireland. As well as for in interviewing the country’s leading cultural figur she writes a fortnightly column and is figures, th newspaper’s theatre critic. Writing about the the Dublin Du Theatre Festival and Tiger Dublin Fringe for fo Cara was a reminder of how much the city has to offer culture vultures: “I see about 100 plays annually, and there’s never a stronger time for theatre in Dublin than the autumn months.

The programming is world class. I’m particularly looking forward to seeing Tom Murphy’s Brigit.”

Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Commercial Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie Advertising Director Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Executive Corinné Vaughan +353 (0)1 271 9622, corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Maeve Barry, +353 (0)1 271 9643, maeve.barry@image.ie Acting Financial Controller Barbara O’Reilly Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Ann Reihill Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Richard Power, Robert Power, Gina Traynor PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

Alix Hopfengärtner is a young

French-Canadian/German designer based in Düsseldorf. She lives with her American boyfriend Josh O’Neal, who is also her blogging partner in crime (dddorf.tumblr.com). Their posts showcase the city’s arts, culture and food scenes – hence their Insider’s Guide for this issue. While gently coaxing locals to fall in love with their city and its “wonderful quality of life”, the pair “encounter unique places and live a happy life” in North Rhine-Westphalia’s waterfront capital.

Like an Arctic tern, Australian-French travel and cultural journalist Tamara Thiessen migrates constantly between southern and northern nor hemispheres and considers her suitcase su her most recognisable landmark. She wri for magazines worldwide, including writes Br Brussels, Bangkok, Seoul, Saudi Arabia and London.

Lo But Andalusia is one of those places th “pulls you back seductively and inevitably that ye after year with its hypnotic colours, flavours year and culture,” she says, in reference to her Ma Malaga feature for Cara.

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie.

Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content.

Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

September 2014

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

CAPTAIN

fantastic PAUL McGINLEY ON GOLF’S RYDER CUP

Shore thing

ON THE COVER

Lake Maggiore uncovered

Geek heaven

Tech tour of San Francisco

Moorish Malaga

Follow the Caliphate Trail

City of drama

Dublin’s theatre festivals

IMAGE Publications Ltd –

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOËLLE O’REILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE

PLUS

WE MEET THE IRISH FASHION DESIGNERS

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Golfer Paul McGinley at Royal Dublin Golf Club

by Richard Gilligan.

Welcome to our new issue! We are all take yours. Feel free to ay for this magazine aw ey. your onward journ e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine

WHO? From left, Manon Merlet, Yoann Christopanos, Romain Achard, Pierre Coaste and Elodie Labeau FLYING IN FROM ... Bordeaux PIERRE SAYS ... “We’re here for a summer of fun, while also working ng in Dublin.”

WHO? John O’Meara and Aoife Rafter FLYING IN FROM ... Bali via Amsterdam AOIFE SAYS ... “I was visiting family in Indonesia but I’m happy to be home – I get to see John.”

WHO? From left left, Stefan ef Krause and Stephan Herm-Stapelberg FLYING IN FROM ... Düsseldorf STEFAN SAYS ...

“We’re renting a car for a mystery road trip around Ireland.”

Arrivals

Summer fun was top of the ag agenda for these holidaymakers – Cara magazine was at Dublin Airport’s T2 to meet them.

WHO? Jennife Jennifer McIner McInerney FLYING IN FROM ... Bali via Amsterdam JENNIFER SAYS ... “I spent 16 amazing days away, but it’s okay, I’m off to Portugal in a few days.”

WORDS BY NIAMH WADE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? Jackie Moran and Barry Maher FLYING IN FROM ... Brussels BARRY SAYS ...

“It’s back home to Galway after a weekend playing EuroPub League football – minus a win.”

WHO? From left, Mary and Aileen Gaskin FLYING IN FROM ...

Washington, DC MARY SAYS ...

“We had ten jam-packed days away, including a visit to the White House. We also stopped off in New York and Philadelphia.”

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SEPTEMBER 2014

WHO? The Petrillo family FLYING IN FROM ... Chicago BRIAN SAYS ...

“We’re off to play golf, fish and try horseback riding at Mount Juliet, Co Kilkenny, before travelling to Switzerland.”

WHO? Christopher Harrod and Maddison Booher FLYING IN FROM ...

Indianapolis MADDISON SAYS ... “I’m staying in Derry for five weeks. I’m so excited to see everything and plan on walking lots.”

“It wasn’t the screaming that put our customers off.

It was the hair...”

...which was a little surprising, our customers having been a strikingly fashionable lot for 170 odd years. When Beatlemania hit Dublin, the four gentlemen concerned made their only appearance in Ireland in a cinema that is now part of the Arnotts building.

To say that you could probably have heard the screaming in the street at cruising altitude is only a slight exaggeration. Then, in the following weeks and months, we started seeing women bringing their men in for a little wardrobe overhaul. Tighter trousers. Sharper shoes. Shorter jackets. Skinny ties. But the hair remained more Dublin than Liverpool.

Ours not to reason why. Ours simply to offer whatever’s next, since 1843.

Photo courtesy of Independent Newspapers

B E A U T Y

H E N R Y S T.

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FA S H I O N

DUBLIN

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J E W E L L E R Y

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H O M E

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T E C H N O L O G Y

W W W. A R N O T T S . I E

BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ■

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Find out what’s on, where and when in September

Follower of fashion

From September 4 to January 2015, London’s V&A Museum will open its doors to Horst – Photographer of Style, an exhibition featuring the stupendous body of work by German-American lensman Horst P Horst. A master of fashion photography, he managed to capture the sophisticated glamour of the interwar years, and his work regularly appeared in the pages of Vogue as well as alongside photographs by the Surrealists he associated with earlier in his career. This vast collection – ranging from prints and scrapbooks to film footage and haute couture imagery – is testament to his successful 60-year career, one which continues to inspire photographers today. vam.ac.uk

SUMMER FASHIONS, AMERICAN VOGUE COVER, 15 MAY 1941 © CONDÉ NAST / HORST ESTATE

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FAMILY

Access all areas So much to see, so much to do: on Culture Night (September 19; culturenight.ie), more than 900 cultural institutions in 36 cities nationwide – including 40 new venues in Dublin – are hosting free visits, tours, workshops and performances from 5pm-11pm. Highlights this year include a guided tour of the splendid Áras an Uachtaráin and RTÉ’s Hansel & Gretel Music Trail along Grafton Street. London, New York and Paris are running similar initiatives on the same date. Zurich, meanwhile, has Long Night of the Museums (September 6; langenacht. ch), during which 46 of the city’s institutions open for free until 2am, some offering pop-up bars and lounges. The special bus service makes getting around a cinch. For a free evening of contemporary art appreciation in Geneva, meander through Quartier des Bains for the 10th anniversary of La Nuit Des Bains (September 18; quartierdesbains. ch). Twelve galleries and four cultural institutions will simultaneously open their doors as part of a thrice-yearly “common openings” programme. And the complimentary culture theme continues in San Francisco, with Bay Area Discovery Museum’s Free Admission Day on the first Wednesday of every month (September 3; baykidsmuseum.org).

A fun-filled children’s museum, it boasts interactive science, art and environmental exhibitions. Its national park location makes it the ideal picnic spot too.

female, Irish-classical-pop THREE’S COMPANY The allled ir harp, violin and soprano-fuel crossover trio Affinití take the 25. ber , Dún Laoghaire, on Septem oeuvre to the Pavilion Theatre terial. paviliontheatre.ie Expect covers and original ma

FREESTYLE

Feat first

MOTORSPORTS

Sparks may fly at the 51st Rally Isle of Man, which burns rubber this September 11-13 (rallyisleofman.co.im). Rip-roaring engines will hog the roads, with worldwide contenders racing around 650 kilometres of the island. Fan favourites in the Rallee Classicagh category include drivers from the British Historic Rally Championship and our very own Black Pudding Irish Historic Tarmac Rally Championship, each competing to win one of the best-known asphalt rallies in the world.

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SEPTEMBER 2014

CYRIL MÜLLER

Lapping it up

It may put the fear of God into even hardy spectators, but Freestyle.ch, Europe’s largest action sports event, lands into Zürich’s Landiwiese area from September 27-28. Fifty of the world’s best free-skiers, freestyle motocross riders, skateboarders and mountain bikers will compete for fame and glory with stomach-churning tricks. It’ll be flipping awesome, with food stands, public bars and “meet and greets”. freestyle.ch

Check in Compiled by Lucy White, Niamh Wade, Ellen Lunney, Michelle O’Brien, Ruth Anna Coss and Jessica Kain

STAY

4 urban hotels with green spaces Enjoy the last rays of summer sun in these urban oases …

CL IV E

LS

Deadly buzz

Go floral ...

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SEPTEMBER 2014

a 40-hectare olive grove, with the Atlas Mountains as its rather breathtaking background, this eco-friendly riad has made a name for itself in recent years with excellent service, stunning landscape design and magical, plant-filled gardens – more than 900 species, at last count.

Rooms are simple and elegantly furnished. B&B from €100 per night. +212 665 028 274; alhossoun.com

TriBeCa location, celebrity co-owner – Robert De Niro – and loft-style interiors, The Greenwich Hotel also has a Tuscan-style courtyard, serving drinks and Italian food in leafy surroundings. Rooms and suites look like the New York pad you always dreamed of – think lots of natural light, comfy armchairs and well-stocked bookshelves.

Rooms from $550; +1 212 941 8900; thegreenwichhotel.com

FASHION

Who hasn’t felt the limb-rattling effects of a powerfully strong espresso, or been lulled to sleep by a soporific herbal tea? From September 20 until October 12, Intoxication Season at London’s Kew Gardens will trace the secret history and fluctuating public opinion of these mindaltering plants. Take a look at some of nature’s most notorious plants in the Princess of Wales Conservatory, taste one in the Secluded Glasshouse, or enjoy a plant-based drink at Kew’s Botanical Beverages Bar. Guest speakers and experts will also be focusing on historical and cultural views of coffee, alcohol, cannabis and mushrooms over a series of four weekends. kew.org

Dar al Hossoun, Taroudant, Agadir Set in

The Greenwich Hotel, New York Apart from its

EVENT

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Trinity City Hotel, Dublin

Just minutes from Dublin’s two main shopping hubs – Grafton Street and Henry Street – Trinity City Hotel boasts a surprisingly restful inner courtyard.

Bedrooms offer all the modern comforts (200Mb free Wi-Fi, laptop safes and flatscreen TVs), yet are elegantly proportioned: some rooms are listed Georgian, while others are housed in a former redbrick fire station.

Rooms from €139. 01 648 1000; trinitycityhotel.com

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Parisian cognoscenti go to the rooftop bar of the Terrass Hotel for cocktails, sharing plates and a great view of the Eiffel Tower – all at quite reasonable prices.

The bright, breezy terrace vibe is continued throughout the hotel, where cut flowers and dashes of colour make for a stylish and fun stay. Nearer to the ground, you’re only minutes from Montmartre’s many attractions.

Rooms from €200. +331 460 67285; terrass-hotel.com

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Hotel Terrass, Paris

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1 Floral Quilted Leather Bag, €45 at magpietrading.ie 2 Earrings, €9.99 at hm.com/ie 3 Printed Jumpsuit, €85 at euro.dorothyperkins.com 4 Joyful Hand & Body Cream by Antipodes, €20 at antipodesnature.com 5 Blossom Court Shoe, €935 at charlotteolympia.com 6 Cuff by Diva at Miss Selfridge, €24 at missselfridge.com

* Off the recommended retail price © Kildare Village 2014

08/14

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Muriel Maxwell, American Vogue, 1939 © Condé Nast/Horst Estate

Visit KIldARE VIllAgE From septemBer to discoVer Cur ators of style As a proud sponsor of Horst: Photographer of Style at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London (6 September 2014 – 4 January 2015), Kildare Village will be diplaying a selection of exclusive replica prints from the exhibition for a limited time only.

like sHoppinG. But Better.

The world’s finest designer boutiques,all in one place, with up to 60%* off.

AnyA HindmArcH

Brooks BrotHers

links oF london

louise kennedy

cAtH kidston lulu Guinness

FurlA

Joules

And mAny more

KildareVillage.com EUROPE

london

duBlin

pAris

mAdrid

BArcelonA

milAn

Brussels

FrAnkFurt

municH

CHINA

suzHou

sHAnGHAi (opening autumn 2015)

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DESIGN

A site for sore eyes Trafalgar Square will be transformed this September 13-21 as part of the 12th London Design Festival, when it hosts a site-specific, Landmark Project installation. Also specially commissioned for the multidisciplinary fest, which includes more than 300 events and exhibits, is Double Space for BMW – Precision and Poetry in Motion, an immersive, mirrored sculpture, right, by Edward Barber and Jay Osgerby that will be suspended in the V&A Museum’s Raphael Gallery. londondesignfestival.com

FASHION

BUCKING A TREND September marks a new season of fashion trends and, fittingly, Dublin is a hive of sartorial activity this month. The fifth Dublin Fashion Festival from September 4-7 (dff.ie) will see catwalk shows popping up, not just all over the shop but also on the city’s streets – even on the Luas.

In-store events and promotions around the city centre shall abound, while “Face of the Festival” Angela Scanlon, left, will launch the event and host a live fashion show on September 5. And you can get a further fashion fix at Brown Thomas’ Irish Designers CREATE until September 26 (brownthomas.ie), the fourth annual showcase of established and emerging Irish talent in ready-to-wear, accessories and textiles, which has at its centrepiece an exhibition of work by the Irish designer Richard Lewis.

MUSIC

Rebel rebel Chicago – how lucky you are. The Windy City is the only US venue for the David Bowie Is exhibition, which first wowed fans at London’s V&A Museum last year.

On September 23 until January 4, the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago (mcachicago.org) will showcase more than 400 multimedia items, from photos to handwritten lyrics to costumes and rare performance material. The programme includes talks, live music, contemporary dance and cabaret, before it moves to France, for a March 3 opening at the Philharmonie de Paris (philharmoniedeparis.com).

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MASAYOSHI SUKITA © SUKITA/THE DAVID BOWIE ARCHIVE 2012

SHOPPING

Inspired by travel 2 1

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6 3 4 5 1 Cavallini & Co Vintage Travel Journal, £9.50 at madmolly.co.uk 2 Leaning Tower Cups, £19.99 at menkind.co.uk 3 New York Brooklyn House Cushion, £45 at helenacarrington.co.uk 4 Illustrated Amsterdam Globe, €12.91 at notonthehighstreet.com 5 Typographic Clock, €71.30 at notonthehighstreet.com 6 Bridges Over the Liffey Print by Clover Rua, €10 at etsy.com

WHERE LEGEND LIVES

Book online at www.guinness storehouse.com and get 10% off adult tickets.

Guinness Storehouse®, St James’s Gate, Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800

The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and associated logos are trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2014

Visit the magical home of GUINNESS in Dublin.

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FOOD

Farm to table From handpicked salad leaves to fresh berries, Toscana (toscanarestaurant.ie) in Dublin city centre (the family has a second eatery in Dún Laoghaire, toscana.ie) has been growing its own produce from its Wicklow farm since 1999 – winning it a Good Food Ireland Grow It Yourself Award in 2013. Proprietor Dee Betuci shares her favourite like-minded restaurants.

NEW YORK Rosemary’s This is an Italian restaurant with a small rooftop herb garden in the heart of Greenwich Village.

Beyond the supermodern façade, an airy rustic restaurant awaits.

Ask for House-made mozzarella in a light bath of Tuscan olive oil with their Greenwichripened tomato saIad. rosemarysnyc.com

SICILY Regaleali Estate My husband (and Toscana chef PJ Betuci) and I often travel to small family vineyards in Italy and this is one of the best, where all the food is either sustainably grown, or wild – and their famed Tasca d’Almerita wine is served at our restaurants.

Ask for The homemade ricotta ravioli with mint. tascadalmerita.it

DUBROVNIK Konavoski Komin A family-run restaurant in lush Konavle that not only grows its own produce on its surrounding land but also sticks to traditional Croatian cooking methods. Ask for The locally reared lamb, slow-cooked in a traditional iron bell under hot coals. Order at least two hours before arrival. +385 20 479 607

BARCELONA Cuines Santa Caterina Cuines Santa Caterina – set in the city’s sprawling Santa Caterina Market – is the next best thing to growing your own, serving market ingredients from local growers. Ask for In the tapas bar: Salty pimentos di padrones with Tortilla Espanol, oozing with local cheese and fried onions. grupotragaluz.com

CORK Ballymaloe Country House I like to retreat to this 160-hectare oasis, where they’ve been serving home-grown produce for many years, sourced directly from their walled gardens. This is a wonderful place to visit, be it for afternoon tea, dinner or a weekend. Ask for Their famous relish, which can be bought on site. ballymaloe.ie

, it’s 1994 at Dublin’s La mère Zou FOODIE FLASHBACK Dine like ing ry this month with a tast which marks its 20th anniversa at their original prices. Paisley plate menu of 15 former dishes tops optional. lamerezou.ie. shirts and crushed velvet crop TREND

BÜRO GAFF ADENIS, PIERRE

Weiner takes all

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SEPTEMBER 2014

Lederhosen at the ready: it’s Oktoberfest time.

For, despite its name, the Bavarian beer fest commonly starts in September. It all began at a royal wedding in Munich in 1810 and now, some six million visitors pour into the super-fête at Theresienwiese (September 20 to October 5; muenchen.de).

Dublin also purveys its finest München brews, würstl and oompah, at IFSC Docklands (September 18 to October 5; oktoberfest-dublin.de), while Copenhagen goes full dirndl in a 2,500-person beer tent in Femøren (September 11-13, 18-20; oktoberfestdk.dk). San Francisco’s Pier 48 is one of the most scenic spots in which to raise a stein (September 19-21; oktoberfestbythebay.com). Music is provided by the Chico Bavarian Band, named after its founding members who met in Chico, California, more than 40 years ago. Prost!

SEA SESSIONS September is oyster season so munch on some molluscs at Cliff Townhouse, Dublin, for its third annual oyster fest – cue tasting menus, masterclasses and a Sunday Oyster Brunch. theclifftownhouse.com

THE IRISH TIMES DIGITAL EDITION

WANT NEWS 24/7?

Keep in touch with Irish and international news stories, wherever you are, with The Irish Times Digital Edition.

This digital replica of the print newspaper is available on iPad, iPhone, Android and/or PC. Issues are available to download daily from 3am (GMT).

Monthly Subscription:From 55c per day Annual Subscription: â‚Ź199

To subscribe, go to www.irishtimes.com/digital-edition

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Wish you were here Marc Ma Safran, from Syracuse, Sy New York, took this thi photograph of Doo Lo Lough, Delphi, Co Mayo duri a trip to Ireland this during su summer.

“We were driving by on a windless day when the clouds were perfectly reflected in the still of the lake,” recalls Mark.

“It was a mirage of sorts and I was captivated by the grandeur. ” The trip came about when another of Marc’s photographs was selected for the Aer Lingus 2014 calendar. He used his prize of airline tickets to visit Ireland.

“We have no Irish heritage but we have fallen in love with the country,” he says.

Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the October/ November issue.

The technicals Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot.

The editor’s decision is final.

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SEPTEMBER 2014

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On my travels PHOTOGRAPH BY DARAGH McDONAGH

Managing director of Alive-O Productions Camille Donegan guides Lucy White through her greatest adventures.

Camille Donegan was an actress for more than ten years before setting up Alive-O Productions (aliveoproductions.ie), which specialises in outdoor and site-specific performance. She’s also chairperson of The Attic Studio – a community of theatre creatives – and co-creator of The Big Green Apple project, a transatlantic collaboration with Manhattan’s Origin Theatre Company, in which five plays from Dublin will be staged in New York as part of the 1st Irish Festival, September 2-29 (1stirish.org). y childhood holidays consisted of …

Trips to Europe in summer and skiing in winter. I realise now how lucky I was to be brought skiing as a child, learning to ski at three years of age between my father’s legs, and going every year after that until I was 15 or so.

The most exotic location I’ve ever visited is … Probably Thailand. My idea of exotic is being on a tropical, tranquil and idyllic beach, which is what I experienced on Koh Samui in 2001. In contrast I found the Caribbean to be colourful, vibrant and loud – also amazing but not as relaxing!

If I could fly anywhere tomorrow, it’d be to … Peru. My dad died there 15 years ago in a mountain accident and, until recently, it never felt like the

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right time to visit. I’ll visit within the next year or so and combine the trip with a visit to other parts of Central and South America.

Travelling offers … A different perspective. It keeps you open and curious about life. While it can be challenging too – especially as a woman travelling alone – I love the sense of freedom and spontaneity.

I believe trips like this will continue to inspire my work. My company, Alive-O Productions, specialises in outdoor theatre, and I’m passionate about bringing Irish culture and heritage to life with these shows.

The most inspiring place for my work is … New York City. I lived there when I was 21 and it had a massive impact on me. Its energy, vibrancy and positivity is absolutely infectious. When I went to New York last summer I met producer George Heslin,

who runs the 1st Irish Festival – and The Big Green Apple project was born. I also love New York’s culture of philanthropy.

Everyone seems to give to the arts, it’s the done thing.

The place that most exceeded my expectations was ... Berlin.

I was there a few months ago and was blown away by it.

Art, culture and nature are so integrated. And the nightlife is pretty good too.

When I check into a hotel, the first thing I do is … Read everything I can get my hands on about the place: hotel instruction booklets, tourism leaflets, travel books, breakfast menu cards – you name it. Soak up everything I can and see where I want to explore first.

My scariest holiday involved … A translucent scorpion. I was in Ios in Greece when I was 19.

On returning to our apartment

3 Irish theatre treats abroad ...

PATRICK REDMOND

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SEPTEMBER 2014

Tom Vaughan-Lawlor takes his audience on a horrifying yet comical trip into Dublin’s underworld in Howie the Rookie, left, written by Mark O’Rowe and presented by Landmark Productions at the Barbican Centre in London. This oneman show runs November 19-29. barbican.org.uk

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In New York, the Dublinbased Pan Pan company presents its acclaimed production of the Samuel Beckett radio play Embers at BAM Harvey Theater, September 17-20 (bam.org).

And the Irish Arts Center hosts Camille O’Sullivan: In Residence, September 18-20 and 24-28 (irishartscenter.org).

one night I opened the door and my friend shrieked as she saw a small scorpion right there in front of us. As we discussed all possible solutions, including just running away, we saw it scurry under a bed. With superherostyle reactions, I threw the bed across the room and squished it with my shoe. I got a lot of free drinks and kudos in the club that night as I paraded the dead critter around the place.

My fantasy travelling companion would be … Cillian Murphy. I’ve been a big fan since Disco Pigs and I particularly love his stage work. It’s not just those big blue eyes of his that make him the subject of my laptop screensaver … I was lucky enough to hear him chatting with Enda Walsh at the Triskel Arts Centre in Cork a few years ago and he seems like a very sound, humble, down-to-earth guy.

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Two sixty-something women are the unlikely couple at the centre of HotForTheatre’s awardwinning show, I (Heart) Alice (Heart). Both a piece of documentary theatre and a love story, it’s on at the Centre Culturel Irlandais in Paris, October 17-18. centreculturelirlandais.com

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PHOTOGRAPH BY CONOR HORGAN

My travel notebook Actress KELLY CAMPBELL is a founding director of Bewley’s Café Theatre, Dublin. This autumn she’ll be back on our screens in the Irish drama Love/Hate, and the BBC’s Ripper Street.

Kelly has just finished a short film, Quarantine, which she wrote and directed. The talented Dubliner has also written her first screenplay, Famine. Michelle O’Brien catches up with her.

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LAST TRIP? “Ibiza. It wasn’t the e kind of holiday I imagined you could ki d have there; it was very restful..

I stayed in the old town and found a quiet beach where I read, swam and ate a lot of tomato and onion salad. I even went to bed early!”

MOST DARING TRAVEL EXPERIENCE? “The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in Peru, and it was spectacularly worth it. Six centuries ago a whole city was built on the side of a remote mountain nearly 2,500 metres above sea level, and all I had to do was hike there in my 21st-century boots.

I should really get over myself!”

BEST RESTAURANT IN THE WORLD? “Dublin’s oldest café, Bewley’s on Grafton Street (bewley.com), right. It’s a Dublin institution and has the best coffee in town.

For pints, my favourite current haunt is Grogan’s off Dublin’s South William Street (groganspub.ie).”

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BEST HOTEL IN THE WORLD? “Without a doubt, the Bowery, New York (theboweryhotel.com), left. The atmosphere is so relaxed, with big squashy couches that swallow you up, and its super-cool vibe is synonymous with the Lower East Side.”

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Lisa Hughes gets the lowdown on Munich and where to stay when on business in Cardiff.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK MUNICH

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BEST FOR BUSINESS HOTELS IN CARDIFF

Gary Montgomery, CEO of aircraft seat-maker Thompson Aero Seating, who make the new Aer Lingus lie-flat business class seats, is based in Northern Ireland but his favourite city for business is Munich.

“First memory of Munich …

I first travelled to Munich back in 1996. On descent to Munich Airport, I gazed out at the sheer beauty of the rolling countryside, quilted with crops of hops and dotted with villages of pure white homes capped with bright orange roofs. I was immediately captivated.

Business lunch … For a truly traditional authentic Bavarian experience at affordable prices, go to the suburb of Seefeld and visit the familyrun Gasthaus Ruf (2 Marienplatz, +49 815 276 363; gasthaus-ruf. de). Bavarian cooking is uncomplicated and my favourite dish has to be zwiebelrostbraten, which is a fillet of beef cooked in a red wine sauce served with caramelised onions.

Business drinks … Munich people love their beer, and justifiably so, therefore you can never offend a local client by inviting them to a beer garden – even to talk business. The Seehaus (3 Kleinhesselohe, +49 893 816 130; munichbeergardens. com) in a large public park known as the English Garden is my favourite.

are of a very high standard and many offer larger, more comfortable rooms at half the price of hotels.

Getting around … The S-Bahn and U-Bahn, the surface and underground train systems, are the best way to move around the city.

Starting with the station in the airport terminal, Best business hotel … My the network is expansive business hotel of choice is and well connected, and the the Westin Grand München trains are punctual, reliable (6 Arabellastrasse, +49 899 and clean.

2640; westingrandmunich.

Wi-Fi … Munich has com/en) – a touch of luxury embarked on a city-wide at affordable prices. The initiative to extend free hotel has all mod cons Wi-Fi in open areas such for business, rest and as in Marienplatz, the main relaxation, and is within city-centre square. Munich walking distance of the Airport also offers free English Garden and two Wi-Fi access for 30 minutes.

U-Bahn stations. If you’re On your downtime … on a budget, Gasthofs Take a day trip to the (German B&Bs) in Munich Andechs Monastery Ande (2 Bergstrasse, +49 8152 3760; andechs.

81 ”I can’t travel without … My de) where the de Garmin Forerunner 620 GPS sports Benedictine monks Be watch (£329.99, or £359.99 with have been brewing ha heart-rate monitor). I often run when Andechs beer for An on business travel and download my hundreds of years. hundr run route onto various map apps, It’s definitely (and not building a geographical running probably) the world’s pr diary and history of my travels.” best beer!” be

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THE ROYAL HOTEL CARDIFF Forget soulless mega hotel chains, this Grade II listed Victorian building has enough character to make it a firm favourite with business travellers and city-breakers alike.

Built in 1866, the four-star Royal Hotel offers free Wi-Fi across all 60 bedrooms and is the closest hotel to the Millennium Stadium. Cocktails and snacks at Fitz’s bar make it a prime spot for meetings.

(88 St Mary Street, +44 292 055 0750; royalhotelcardiff.com) PARK PLAZA For a laidback, contemporary stay, you won’t go far wrong with the popular Park Plaza.

Located in the heart of Cardiff city centre, its 129 rooms and suites are kitted out with a work station, 100 per cent Egyptian cotton sheets, feather pillows and free WiFi. For larger meetings, book one of the six function rooms or, for an informal meeting, afternoon tea at Laguna Kitchen & Bar hits the spot. (Greyfriars Road, +44 292 011 1111; parkplazacardiff.com) MERCURE CARDIFF HOLLAND HOUSE HOTEL & SPA One of Cardiff’s tallest buildings, this four-star Mercure property also boasts the biggest conference facilities in the city. As well as 15 meeting rooms catering for up to 700 attendees, Holland House is five minutes' walk from Cardiff Queen Street Station and offers all-important Wi-Fi throughout.

(24-26 Newport Road, +44 292 113 2801; mercure.com)

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Outer limits lashes of neon, skintight outfits have become an everyday sight in Irish life.

But it’s not just men in the foothills of mid-life crises that are at it. Young and old, male and female, sporty and unsporty are all taking up endurance racing.

The Dublin Marathon, which once stood out almost alone as the ultimate physical challenge, now competes with an amazing variety of new cycle races, triathlons and adventure events.

New races are popping up everywhere. Megalithic Man – which sounds more struggling Flintstone in a bearskin than toned athlete in electric blue Lycra – made its debut last year with the challenge: “Are you as tough as a Megalithic Man, or Megalithic Woman?” Founder George Allen clearly had a mean streak. The finale to the eight-kilometre forest run through the grounds of Loughcrew House, Co Meath, and a 20-kilometre mountain bike ride along the Boyne valley was a killer assault course. Even so, an impressive 178 finished.

Ireland is spoilt. The amazing variety of beautiful landscapes is perfect for testing yourself in the great outdoors. The country is scattered with events, from the

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cutely named Adare to Survive (September 28; adaretosurvive. com) race in Co Limerick and the picturesque Dingle Marathon (September 6; dinglemarathon.ie) in Co Kerry to the Achill ROAR Adventure Race (September 6; roar.ie) in Co Mayo.

“Dingle is an incredible destination,” says the event’s founder Ken Dunne. “And the route travels around the most spectacular route in Ireland for 17 miles along the coast.

Beautiful scenery. Hugely historic.

And all the bars and restaurants are buzzing all weekend.”

Then there’s the hugely popular Gaelforce West. This blue riband event in August consists of six stages of cycling, mountain biking, kayaking and hiking that take in both Co Galway and Co Mayo, including the heights of Croagh Patrick and Killary fjord.

So why do people do it?

Martin Toomey, race director of the RockHard Adventure Race (October 18; rockhard.ie) in Tramore, Co Waterford, is in no doubt. It’s fun. “The atmosphere on the day is a healthy mix of camaraderie and competition as racers share a mutual respect for the hard training they’ve been through, while also looking to finish on the podium,” he explains. “The support from family and enthusiastic

3 to race ...

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CAPITAL CLASSIC This is the 35th year of the SSE Airtricity Dublin Marathon, left, which is run through the historic Georgian streets of Dublin, and now attracts more than 10,000 runners.

A fantastic day in the city. October 27, €75-95; dublinmarathon.ie

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ACTION PHOTOGRAPHY

Lycra-clad people are everywhere. Ben Webb looks at the sudden rise of endurance racing in Ireland.

Thrill of the hill – participants in events such as the Achill ROAR Adventure Race, above, do it for sheer fun.

spectators, along with the presence of a great MC, creates a vibrant atmosphere all along the course, particularly near the start and finish lines. So many racers come and participate just to be part of the buzz and euphoria.”

The buzz is important and so is the immense satisfaction in completing the course. A good time helps for the more serious athletes who squeeze into multi-coloured hi-tech gear to boost performance, but many take part to have a great day out and raise money for charity. Take Colm O’Gorman, CEO of Amnesty International Ireland. “What fills me with dread is the prospect of wearing Lycra in public,” he muses. “I have made a solemn promise to my kids, and to myself, that I will not do so. It’s a promise I intend to keep!”.

FAMILY FUN The full Megalithic Man race in Loughcrew, Co Meath, is an 8km run, a 20km cycle and a 1km assault course, but the Mini Megalithic is for the whole family – a 2km forest run, 5km cycle and the assault course! October 18, €45; megalithicman.com

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SWEET CHARITY Skibbereen Charity Adventure Race (SCAR) is full-on, with road biking, trail running and sea kayaking. The courses are Expert, 77km; Sport, 40km and Taster, 17km. October 18, €25-65; skibbereenadventurerace. com

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Bean there

The coffee scene in Dublin is booming. Now, it even has its own festival, discovers Al Higgins. he coffee scene in Dublin has come a long way in a short time, with worldrenowned baristas in local cafés, latte art throw-downs in the evenings and interesting spaces being transformed into java shops across the city. It’s no surprise, then, that we’re having a festival dedicated to it, especially as Ireland hosts the World Barista Championship in two years’ time.

The 2014 Coffee and Tea Festival this September 12-14 is a showcase for some of Ireland’s best offerings in the industry, from the roasteries buying green beans and turning them into something amazing, to the people behind the brewing technology, the cafés around the city serving your coffee, and the baristas showcasing their skills in the national barista competitions.

The festival places an emphasis on education, so it makes sense for visitors to start at the roasters’ village. Bailies, a Belfast-based roaster supplying Dublin cafés such as CoffeeAngel and Art of Coffee, are definitely worth checking out and talking to about their single-origin offerings, tastings and preferred brew methods. The roasters from London’s Square Mile will be running a tasting bar

PHOTOGRAPHS BY AL HIGGINS

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where you can sample the fare of one of the most progressive and dedicated roasteries around.

From here, wander over to the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) Brew School and Cupping Lab, where you’ll first learn the ins and outs of how to brew using a filter, cafetière or an Aeropress, and then how to taste coffee you’ve been brewing (known as cupping in the industry).

The main show will be the National Barista Competition.

Irish competitors have a great reputation in international barista competitions, having ranked in the top five in the world several times over the past few years.

The competitors must serve an espresso, a cappuccino and a signature drink to each judge.

The signature drinks are always a big talking point as baristas pair their chosen drink with flavours,

Crema the crop – cupping at last year’s event. Below, a demonstration in the Cupping Lab.

textures and techniques to stand out from the crowd. The Brewers Cup (September 12) is one of the newest of the World Coffee Event/ SCAE competitions, and with Irish competitor Keith O’Sullivan having won the first World Brewers Cup in 2011, the pressure’s on. Each competitor brews a separate coffee for the judges, explaining tasting notes, the mouth-feel, acidity and finish of each brew.

The festival will be finishing up with Ireland’s first Home Barista Championship (September 14).

If you manage to get through all that cupping, brewing and judging, stop for a coffee. You’ve earned it.

The Dublin Coffee & Tea Festival runs from September 12-14, RDS, Ballsbridge. Tickets from €8.40; dublincoffeefestival.com.

3 of the best beverages in Dublin ...

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Weekend Brunch at 3FE, Lower Grand Canal Street Third Floor Espresso has recently started serving some amazing food, left, and offer a coffee-themed menu with weekend brunch. Try the cascara (the cherries surrounding a coffee bean) syrup over French toast. Menus revealed via Twitter at @3FE and at 3fe.com

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Iced Tea at Clement & Pekoe, South William Street This is one of the cosiest spots in Dublin to relax with a cuppa. There’s now iced tea and coffee on the menu. The strawberry-infused Assam iced tea is amazing. Check out the many tasting jars towards the rear of the café to find what you’re after. clementandpekoe.com

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Irish Coffee at L Mulligan Grocer, Stoneybatter Although better known for their food and beers, L Mulligan Grocer is also home to one of the best Irish coffees in the city.

It’s ground and brewed to order.

The “classic” is, well, a classic, but try the “Lucy Rhinehart” with its notes of dark chocolate and cherry. lmulligangrocer.com

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Rich pickings

As food festivals celebrate fruits of the harvest, Aingeala Flannery samples the best of them.

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Above, shucking oysters at the Galway Oyster and Seafood Festival. Below, a Waterford blaa served with bacon.

famous Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival (September 25-28; galwayoysterfest. com) to A Taste of West Cork in Skibbereen (September 5-14; atasteofwestcork.com) – a Mecca for Irish gourmands. A relative newcomer that has got tongues wagging and bellies rumbling is the Westport Food Festival (September 5-7; westportfoodfestival. ie). Expect lots of demonstrations from top chefs, mushroom hunts and secret suppers. And, if you overindulge, you can cycle the Wild Atlantic Way. The scenery is so breathtaking you’ll forget you’re exercising and, besides, it will help to rebuild your appetite. As they say in Irish: Is maith an t-anlann an t-ocras – hunger is the best sauce.

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blaa straight from the oven,” he says.

“I like to eat them with luncheon sausage – or Red Lead as it’s known around here. For the festival I give the blaa a lick of creamery butter and fill it with local cured bacon.”

The humble Irish rasher – “another Waterford invention”, according to Walsh – was patented in the city in the 1800s.

Waterford is also one of the best apple-growing regions in Ireland and a good, non-alcoholic alternative for thirsty foodies is a bottle of hand-pressed apple juice from the orchards in Portlaw on the banks of the Suir. Follow the river into the city and you’ll find the site of the original Jacob’s bakery, where cream crackers were first created.

That’s handy to know when you get chatting to local cheesemongers – the celebrated smoked cheddar, Knockanore, along with Knockalara and Triskel cheeses, all hail from Waterford. Try them on a cracker with some local chutney, handmade

by Norbert Thul and Audrea Hassett – the Love Apple Relish is a stunner.

If you are visiting Ireland this month and Waterford isn’t on your itinerary, never fear, you will not go hungry. There are plenty of food festivals you can visit, from the worldNE

eán Fomhair – the Irish for September – literally means “midharvest”. Walk in the Irish countryside this month and you’ll find bushes heavy with rowan, elder and blackberries.

It’s the season for apples and pears, and for farmers to bring in their crops: barley, wheat and maize. It’s oyster season on the coast, and in the woods, wild mushroom caps begin to sprout.

Fashionable restaurants in Dublin boast seasonal menus, but the best the harvest has to offer is found at food festivals that pop up in smaller Irish towns this month.

You don’t need a reservation, there’s no dress code and your children are always welcome.

Festivals are also the best place to meet artisan food producers and to sample specialties that are unique to the local area. Take the humble Waterford blaa, the star attraction at the city’s Harvest Festival (September 12-14; waterfordharvestfestival.ie). These soft, stretchy bread rolls have been baked in Waterford since the 17th century. Local baker Dermot Walsh explains that blaas were traditionally said to spoil as soon as they crossed the River Suir.

“The Harvest Festival means visitors to Waterford get to taste the

3 must-eats ...

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Ghirardelli Chocolate Festival, San Francisco, September 13-14 Founded in 1869, Ghirardelli’s, left, is a San Francisco institution.

Main attractions include classes, demonstrations and the legendary “Earthquake Sundae” contest, where contestants slurp their way through a tower of chocolate and cream – with their hands behind their backs. ghirardelli.com

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Eat the World, South Bank, London, September 26-28 This is one of the hippest food festivals around. Organised by The Real Food Company, it brings together a vast array of street food vendors. Whether you fancy roast beef in a roll with hand-drawn cask ale, or freshly rolled nigiri with a cool bottle of Asahi, Eat the World has it all. realfoodfestival.co.uk

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The Atlantic Antic, Brooklyn, September 28 The “Antic” – which takes over Brooklyn’s Atlantic Avenue – is not officially a food festival but is New York’s biggest street fest. The borough has NYC’s best Middle Eastern food, but all culinary corners of the globe are represented. The event is 40 years old this September, so it’s going to be one hell of a party. atlanticave.org

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Pregnant pause Clare Meredith takes a break for some pre-natal pampering at Castle Leslie.

am six months The “castle” is actually a Victorian pregnant and lying house built in the Scottish baronial on a treatment style in Glaslough village. You can table. For once, no stay in the house itself, the restored one is monitoring, and enlarged gate lodge, a mews or scanning, measuring or checking cottage. We are ensconced in the anything. Instead, a therapist lodge, and I immediately spot the is gently scrubbing me and my large Victorian bath. bump with a mixture of sugar and The house itself is a beautiful blueberries. Expecting has never pile, built in its current been more blissful. form in the late 19th It is only 20 minutes since we century by Sir John arrived at the Castle Leslie Estate Leslie, the first Baronet. in Co Monaghan, and already I’ve It’s easy to see why it’s a forgotten about work and almost popular wedding venue – forgotten about my husband, who is even Paul McCartney and unpacking somewhere on the estate. Heather Mills tied the Child number one is also a distant knot here in 2002. (That memory, having been deposited the knot unravelled six with grandparents. For now, it’s years later cannot be laid just me and Carla the therapist. I’ve at Castle Leslie’s door!) signed up for the full “Mum to Be” There is a sense that package: scrub, wrap and facial. we are joining a long list Pre-natal pampering and baby of visitors, from royalty to rock showers are big business stars. In fact, the estate and these days, with lots village are probably REST of hotels and resorts worth a period ASSURED offering spa drama of their own. treats and other The estate has Castle Leslie offers oneindulgences. been in the Leslie night packages including Castle Leslie’s family since dinner and breakfast from offering has a 1663, a home for €115pps, and two-night packages Victorian feel, such eccentric from €160pps. The Mum with period décor characters as a to Be head-to-toe and fittings and fighting bishop, treatment costs €120. an old-fashioned a pre-Raphaelite castleleslie.com charm. artist, a Spitfire pilot,

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Top, the gabled lodge at Castle Leslie. Above, where the magic happens - the treatment room at the Estate’s spa.

What to pack ...

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an now current owner and Samantha, whose love of Sa horses ho is evident in the room names, bric-a-brac and na artwork ar throughout.

Due to the volume of wedding bookings, the castle is often closed, but we did manage to sneak a peek just before some lucky couple’s big day. It’s clear as you wander about the rooms that this is more a home than a hotel – there are family portraits of stern men and famous beauties, paintings

by Sir John, and photographs of children look out from every corner.

The estate is home to a working farm and stables (our peaceful room overlooks the equestrian centre), and while taking in the stillness of Kilvey Lake and the beautiful rolling hills of Monaghan, I also waddle past the odd quad bike.

Fortunately, if it all gets too wet and mucky you can borrow a pair of wellies and sink into a warm bath on your return.

Dinner is in Snaffles restaurant in the gate lodge, and it’s a real treat. An evil temptress, sorry, I mean waitress, left wine and gin menus along with the food one.

I order a non-alcoholic beer in Conor’s Bar later, and get a sudden feeling that the bump will be a boy.

Castle Leslie is the perfect spot for some pampering, bump or not. Although, I can now add blueberries to my list of cravings.

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Shelf Life|

Bridget Hourican gets a glimpse of urban life, and talks Irish roots with Matthew Thomas.

Behind the lines

Ireland provided inspiration for the New Jerseybased author Matthew Thomas.

THE WORLD ATLAS OF STREET PHOTOGRAPHY

by Jackie Higgins (Thames & Hudson, £24.95) For most of us, “street photography” suggests SIGHT something unstaged, snapped, caught in UNSEEN the moment – a freeze-frame of someone going about their daily business. There At Kinsale Arts Festival, are photos like that here, but there Sinéad Cusack, Mark O’Halloran, are also performed and manipulated and Fionnuala Flanagan will read a pieces; staged fantasies, nightmares script they’ve never seen in Nassim and narratives of urban living in the Soleimanpour’s White Rabbit, 21st century. Images are catalogued Red Rabbit, the story as much of according to city – more than 50 of a surprise for the performer as them, from Johannesburg to Detroit, the audience. September Rotterdam to Caracas, Sydney to Venice, 19-28; kinsalearts as captured by Massimo Vitali, above – and festival.com according to photographer (more than 100), with the accompanying text explaining his or her aesthetic. Sternly arty, veering on the solemn – but great pics, obviously.

WHAT IS WE ARE NOT OURSELVES ABOUT? It’s the story of Eileen Tumulty growing up in post-Second World War Queens, New York, as the only daughter of Irish immigrants and deciding that she wants a better life.

WHERE DID YOU WRITE IT? I wrote most of it at Paragraph (paragraphny.com), a workspace for writers on 14th Street in Manhattan. The most unusual place I wrote was in the Amazon rainforest – I was writing by hand, so lack of electricity wasn’t a problem.

WHEN DID YOU FIRST VISIT IRELAND? I was seven months old when my parents, my sister and I went to Ireland for the first time as a family. We visited cousins in Galway, Tipperary, Cavan and Dublin. When I was 20, we returned on a little tour of the country.

It turned out to be the last trip abroad my father would take.

FAVOURITE PLACE IN IRELAND? I’m a city boy, so my favourite thing is to walk along the banks of the Liffey. You can get a great sense of a city by walking its perimeter.

FAVOURITE NEW YORK LANDMARK? St Patrick’s Old Cathedral in the Nolita neighbourhood of Manhattan (oldcathedral. org). It’s an oasis that makes you feel neighbourhoods are still possible in Manhattan. A few minutes there can calm anybody’s nerves.

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INTERVIEW

T

here is a quiet Irishness about Paul McGinley. It’s there when he talks about being the first from his country to be chosen as captain of the European Ryder Cup team, and about his fondest golfing memories. It’s there in his frequent references to identity and home. It’s not as overt as patriotism; it’s more like pride.

You sense it, too, when he talks about his family: his wife Ali and their three children. “I always say to the kids, whenever we’re at an airport and I see people getting on a flight to Ireland, ‘See those people? Aren’t they lucky, going to

Ireland? We’ve the best beaches, the best scenery, the best beef.” He laughs. “I lay it on a bit but they don’t mind.”

We’re sitting in a committee room at the Royal Dublin Golf Club on Bull Island on the north side of the city. Outside, it is a balmy summer’s afternoon and you can hear the ping and fizz of shots being hit on the club’s practice ground. The Ryder Cup – played this year from September 23-28 at Gleneagles in Scotland – is some weeks away, and McGinley is a mixture of excited and calm, like a man who has done all the thinking and now wants the action to begin.

The cup, played every two years between the 24 best golfers from Europe and the US, is probably the game’s biggest event. McGinley has been involved many times, as a player and as a vice-captain. He holed the putt that brought victory to the European side at the Belfry in 2002. A special moment, but not his greatest. No, his favourite Ryder Cup memory involves that idea of identity again.

“In 2004, myself and Pádraig [Harrington] beat Tiger Woods and Davis Love. It seemed that every Irish person in America was there, and they all wore their county jerseys too.

Iron man Paul McGinley and golf’s Ryder Cup go back a long way.

He’s been a player and a vice-captain before, but this year he becomes the first Irishman to captain the European team. So no pressure then. Interview by David Robbins.

Photographs by Richard Gilligan.

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INTERVIEW

It was about an hour before we I probably wouldn’t be here as were able to leave, with the crowd a professional golfer,” he says. singing. It was a great moment to “I’ll never forget that loyalty.” be there behind the 15th green at McGinley’s career is marked by Oakland, a proud moment for us that peculiarly Irish phenomenon to be Irish. It sort of combined our of the “quiet word”. Pádraig Ó Irish identities and our European hUiginn, a Grange member and identities as well.” He smiles senior civil servant, arranged at the memory. “We for the young player were there so long, to meet a senior FASHION the rest of the diplomat who STATEMENT team had gone helped in The fashion side of the Ryder by the time we securing a golf Cup often generates as much got back to the scholarship comment as the golf. Ralph Lauren locker room.” at San Diego has designed the US uniforms this McGinley’s University. year, but the European “look” is still a captaincy, McGinley work in progress. “Nothing to do with then, will me,” says Paul McGinley. have an Irish “Are you joking? Me? Pick flavour. “I’ll ladies’ clothes? No, bring what I’ve not that one.” learned over the years, but I’ll also bring some of my GAA experience too, that experience you get playing for your parish, your team,” he says. He has been so long on the professional golf tour that it’s easy to forget that he showed great promise as a Gaelic footballer, until a broken kneecap ended his career at 19. He began to focus on golf then, playing at the Grange club in the foothills of the Dublin Mountains. The club took care of him, even slipping him the fare to play in the Lytham Trophy in 1991.

“Without the Grange, I wouldn’t be here as Ryder Cup captain, 38 |

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Golden moment – Pádraig Harrington and Paul McGinley celebrate at Oakland in 2002. Their win is McGinley’s favorite Ryder Cup memory.

was also introduced to Frank Fahey, then minister for sport, who made sure that government funding was in place to enable him to take up the San Diego offer. That Irish way of doing things – where a personal connection often matters more than procedural orthodoxy – is something McGinley treasures. He mentions that the tour pros “love the easygoingness of playing in Ireland” at the Irish Open at the Fota Resort in Cork. And outside the clubhouse in Royal Dublin, he jokes with old timer Ray Latchford, Des Smyth’s old caddie. “He’ll be on my buggy in Gleneagles,” he says.

Spending his college years in the US, and now living in the UK – in Sunningdale, part of the stockbroker belt on the BerkshireSurrey border – he has an expat’s attachment to the old country.

He also takes his role as an Aer Lingus ambassador seriously. “As an Irishman living abroad,” he says, “it’s an identity for me. When I see the Aer Lingus shamrock, no matter where I see it, in any airport around the world, even if I’m not flying it, it’s an identity, a connection with Ireland.”

In the meantime, McGinley has other things to think about, such as how to continue Europe’s remarkable recent record in the Ryder Cup. In the early days of the

The Ryder Cup decoded The Ryder Cup is played every two years between teams from Europe and the US, each featuring twelve players. Home advantage alternates and the matches at this month’s event in Gleneagles, Scotland, run from September 26-28.

On the first two days’ play, the matches are played in fourballs (two Europeans versus two Americans, all four playing their own ball) and foursomes (two versus two, each pairing playing alternate shots). On the final day, there are twelve singles matches.

A point is awarded for every match won, and half a point if the match is drawn. There are 28 matches in total, so the first team to get 14 and a half points wins. If the teams are level at the end of play, the holders (Europe) retain the trophy.

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INTERVIEW

competition the European team’s record was poor. The US dominated the event – and the game in general – for long stretches from the 1950s onwards. Overall, the US have won 25 times to Europe’s twelve (two were halved), and nine of Europe’s wins have come since 1985.

The tournament can often come down to the last putt of the last match on the last day. So no pressure then. “Oh, I’m under no illusions about how tough it will be,” says McGinley. He was vice-captain to José Mariá Olazabal at the 2012 Ryder Cup in Medinah, Illinois and saw how the American team came out fighting over the first two days.

“I think they’re incredibly motivated and [US captain] Tom Watson will do a great job too, to motivate them.

You only have to look at the way they turned out the first two days at Medinah, they were incredibly focused. Davis Love [US captain in 2012] did a great job in turning them out.”

However, the match at Medinah turned in favour of the Europeans on a never-to-be-forgotten last day’s play. It prompted some commentators to suggest that the Americans have difficulties gelling as a team. “I don’t see that,” says McGinley. “It’s easy to say that when America are losing. After two days at Medinah last time, you could have said the Europeans weren’t as together as the Americans, who looked very much a team. So I think it’s easy to hide behind a result and make a wide statement based on results. So the fact that we’ve won seven of the last nine, of course we’re going to look more like a team than the Americans. I don’t read too much into it.”

McGinley confesses that the job of vice-captain in the last two Ryder Cups (2010 at Celtic Manor in Wales and 2012 at Medinah) provided him with “a steep learning curve”. Two captains on each occasion approached the job differently. “Monty [Colin Montgomerie, captain in 2010] was very organised, very structured; he pretty much knew what he was going to do from day to day. José 40 |

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Mariá Olazabal was a very emotional coach who wanted to captain on his gut instinct and his feel.”

When the time came for him to pick his own vice-captains, he didn’t hesitate. Veteran Irish pro Des Smyth and Scotsman Sam Torrance were signed up immediately. “Two very different characters,” says McGinley. “Sam was a captain for me in 2002. Very inspirational. I was very impressed how he managed the twelve players that week. I was very impressed how he dealt with me personally.

“Des Smyth has very much been a father figure for me – obviously my own father has been a big influence, but I’ve been on the Tour now for 22 years, and my first twelve years were with Des, pretty much most nights. He’s a tremendous sounding-board, a guy who’s been proved right with his private opinions to me regarding Ryder Cups and players.”

A certain mystique has grown up around the role of Ryder Cup captain. The job calls for someone who commands respect as a player, but who also has that magic touch when it comes to picking the playing combinations and motivating the players individually.

Captain Fantastic – ‘I’m under no illusions about how tough it will be,’ says Paul McGinley.

The Likes of Paul McGinley …

CITY “It has to be an Italian city. Milan, because my wife loves to shop there.”

HOLIDAY DESTINATION “The US, because there is so much variety. Obviously New York and Boston are two of my favourite cities, with their big Irish connection. Being from Dublin, I like the buzz of big cities. And, more recently as a family, we’ve been going a little bit to Florida. So America ticks a lot of boxes.”

RESTAURANT “I’ve got to say Graeme McDowell’s restaurant, Nona Blue, right. It’s a great spot, actually. It’s right at the gates of Lake Nona, beside the airport in Orlando. It’s a big barcum-restaurant and it does really well. I know he’s really proud of it.”

The captain has a lot of decisions to make: he picks three of the team (the other nine qualify over the course of the season), selects his vice-captains and dictates how the course is to be set.

So McGinley has a lot to think about. But between now and that first match on September 26, he plans to find time to play golf with his wife Ali and his three children, Niamh (15), Cillian (13) and Maia (11). “We normally play boys versus girls. Niamh would play with Ali and I would play with Cillian and then the little one would be the referee. And she’s very partisan when it comes to putts given to girls versus boys, which always finishes with a row. When we go away on holidays, we do a lot of that. The kids are quite good golfers, so it’s good fun.”

By the end of this month, the verdict on the McGinley captaincy will be in. If the team chose and prepared by chosen him win, it will be a grea European victory, great thei third in a row. their Bu it will be a very But Iris one too.

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PEOPLE

A cut above

Ireland is stealthily making waves in international fashion thanks to a new generation of creative designers. Alanna Gallagher talks to six style leaders.

Photographs by Anthony Woods.

F

ashion’s map of the world is being redrawn. Thanks to social media, bloggers and street photographers, trends can spring up anywhere and gain traction instantly. The days when our idea of “style” was handed down to us from the great couture houses are over; fashion is just as much bottomup as top-down these days. And Irish designers, fast to react and flexible, are ideally placed to thrive in this new fashion landscape.

“While once London, Paris, Milan and New York were the industry capitals, social media has cast the style net out to new territories,” says Shelly Corkery, fashion director at the Brown Thomas Group. “New media plays the role of explorer, charting new must-see destinations.” The rise in popularity of Scandi chic from design-rich Scandinavia, the cool of edgy Berlin, even Dublin’s hip-heritage mix, are now destinations on an ever-evolving map - part of fashion’s eternal search for fresh thinking. It is this sense of discovery that appeals to the new generation of label hunter-gatherers.

While trailblazers such as John Rocha, Lainey Keogh, Sharon Wauchob and Philip Treacy have competed on the world’s catwalks, there is now an Irish fashion design movement, spearheaded by its new superstars JW Anderson, Simone Rocha (John’s daughter), Tim

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Ryan and Joanne Hynes, who all look at fashion as a creative form as well as a commercial venture, adds designer Sonya Lennon, one half of label Lennon Courtney and co-founder of Frockadvisor, a customer service app that connects with independent fashion retailers.

“There’s a fresh sense of what Irish design is and, while it includes versions of brogues and Aran sweaters, as respectively modernised by Rocha and Anderson, my generation no longer feels shackled by its past,” Lennon says. “We see our heritage as a wonderful thing. What we do is grounded in the earth, born of the land rather than luxury.”

“We are producing graduates that are recognised internationally, particularly in knitwear,” says Deirdre McQuillan, fashion editor of The Irish Times. “Part of their success outside Ireland is that they know how to leverage the unsung Irish design talent that works behind the scenes of some of the world’s more recognisable names; people that include Patrick Scallon, communications director at Dries Van Noten and Aisling Ludden, design director at Marc Jacobs.”

“This new generation of talent understands quality, craftsmanship and the need to compete on the global catwalk but it is our spirituality and poetry that give our designers an edge,” says Eddie Shanahan, chairman of the Council of Irish Fashion Designers.

Susannagh Grogan It was when print designer Susannagh Grogan returned to Dublin five years ago that she was able to set up her namesake label, which launched with vibrantly-coloured, covetable silk squares. She had spent the previous decade working as a freelance designer in London, Cape Town and New York, selling her designs to a client list that included Tommy Hilfiger, Victoria’s Secret and Macy’s.

To grow her business she is once again designing for other brands. Her two most important clients are Aer Lingus, and also the retail behemoth Anthropologie. “I sell prints to them for use on a more affordable fabric – modal, a semi-synthetic type of rayon. Last season my design was Anthropologie’s number-one seller.”

Earlier this year she created a feminine range inspired by Irish lace for Aer Lingus’s in-flight Boutique. She has diversified into printed leather goods – eye-catching clutch bags, purses, passport holders and key rings that will add a pop of colour to your look.

The business model may have changed but her scarves remain at its core. “A silk scarf is a luxury in the same way a piece of jewellery is. It can formalise or relax a look, depending on how it is worn. It flatters the skin.

As accessories go, it is one of the easiest ways to introduce a different colour and print.” susannaghgrogan.com

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Umit Kutluk When Turkish-born, Dublin-based Umit Kutluk opened his studio on Merrion Square, one of the capital’s finest Georgian squares, he was, quite literally, following in the footsteps of Ireland’s first international fashion designer, Sybil Connolly (1921-1998), who made a name for herself in the United States modernising Irish lace and dressing Jacqueline Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor and Julie Andrews.

Connolly also had a studio on the square and an eye for detail.

Kutluk is hesitant to call himself a fashion designer, preferring to describe his work “as a form of tailoring for the 35-plus professional woman”. At the studio he meets and greets every client to find out firsthand what she wants.

“It’s about relationship building and getting clients to trust your judgement,” he says.

The skills he admires in Connolly are often lacking in many modern fashion designers, he laments. “Many can’t sew or cut a pattern.” He sees things differently.

“By finding the right fabric and thread for the ideas in my head, what I do is complete a puzzle – a process that can take weeks or even months to complete.”

With a degree in textile engineering, Kutluk came to Dublin in 2007 to learn English and stayed on to study at the Grafton Academy of Dress Design, whose alumni include Louise Kennedy, Paul Costelloe and Richard Lewis.

Fabric choices are what make his garments stand out, he says. “Quality is key” – something that you feel when you wear his clothes. “My coats, for instance, are lined in silk.” umitkutluk.ie

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PEOPLE

Tim Ryan In the business 20 years, Tipperaryborn, London-based Tim Ryan is about to become an “overnight success”.

While he’s been quietly selling his fringed confections, mainly through Browns Focus in London, his low-key profile is about to go stratospheric because online luxury leviathan Neta-Porter has just ordered 40 of his signature fringed jackets for its “Finds: Special Discoveries From Around The Globe” selection.

It’s a garment that will give its wearer a good time, he says. “In it you will meet interesting people and dance because it moves so well. It is pro-woman, a super glamorous, bird of paradise addition to your wardrobe.”

Already there is a waiting list.

But there is far more to Ryan than his signature garment. His knitwear feels likes sportswear. The designs fit in with your life and are flexible enough to dress up or down. He doesn’t use zips or buttons. The pieces have what Tim calls “the ease of a tracksuit”. While it has taken a long time for the fashion press to really take notice, they’re now clamouring to be associated with him. Kate Moss wore a pair of his collection’s bikini bottoms in her first editorial as a contributing fashion editor to British Vogue earlier this year and his designs have graced the pages of Elle and Russian Vogue, and features in the current issue of Italian Vogue and W magazine.

Ryan’s resort collection will be available in November. net-a-porter.com

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THE HEAD SAYS YES. THE HEART SAYS DEFINITELY, YES.

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PEOPLE

Sorcha O’Raghallaigh Sorcha O’Raghallaigh occupies the creative end of fashion’s broad spectrum.

After studying art at Limerick School of Art and Design she moved to London, to attend Central Saint Martins, and was still sleeping on a friend’s couch when stylist Anna Trevelyan, who was assisting Nicola Formichetti, “discovered” her.

It was a move that resulted in pop star Lady Gaga sporting her clothes – the kind of publicity that most young designers would kill for.

That was three years ago and yet life in what is perceived to be fashion’s fast lane is still very much hand-to-mouth. “While I have my own apartment and studio space in which to work, I still need to take on teaching jobs to fund my creativity,” she says. But she’s happy to have declined the commercial route in favour of a chance to “stretch her creative wings and stay on the niche side of things”.

Religious iconography remains a prevailing theme in her work. Her new head pieces and accessories reflect this “continual obsession”. While inspired by her time growing up in Birr, Co Offaly, where she recalls Mass on Sundays, her interests go beyond her Catholic upbringing. On a recent trip to Hong Kong she visited Man Mo temple – so expect to see that influencing future work.

Despite dressing one of the best-known women on the planet, O’Raghallaigh still isn’t on the official London Fashion Week schedule, but her low-key and unshouty reputation is such that clients Beyoncé, M.I.A. and Florence Welch seek her out. sorchaoraghallaigh.com

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Sean Byrne The recession has been good to Sean Byrne, a couturier who interned at Burberry Prorsum and with the styling team at Net-a-Porter. Byrne had already spent nine years working in Brown Thomas, Dublin as a personal shopper. “During that time I learned what women want, something they don’t teach in college,” he says.

In 2009 he had a choice to make: to stay in London or come home and “take a chance”. He chose the latter.

“I already knew who my customer was. Timing wise I was lucky. When the option of studio space above Om Diva, a vibrant hub of creativity and cool clothing on Dublin’s Drury Street, came up it was something that I felt I was able to afford – something that I wouldn’t have been able to pay for during the boom.”

Word soon spread about his ability to flatter a silhouette. It all boils down to centimetres and millimetres, Byrne explains. “If a garment is out by even half a millimetre, it can look awful.”

His rigorous tailoring technique accentuates the waist through feminine cutting and his attention to detail chimed with the by-then more value-conscious shopper.

He’s also canny enough to leave enough room in each garment’s seam so that it can be let in or out, should you go down or up a dress size.

Catch Sean at CREATE, the annual in-house showcase of Irish fashion talent at Brown Thomas, Dublin, until September 28, where his inspired pieces will make you look brilliant in the board room. A quick change of accessories and his looks will also take you from desk to dinner. seanbyrnecouture.com

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PEOPLE

Danielle Romeril London-based Dubliner Danielle Romeril has smartly positioned her youthful label at the “affordable end” of designer. “I’m not interested in selling coats for €3,500,” she says.

What intrigues her far more is the clout influential fans such as columnist and blogger Susanna Lau, aka Susie Bubble, can wield when they choose to wear one of her pieces. Lau was papped in one of Romeril’s coats at London Fashion Week last February.

Figuring out who you are and what you want to do next are crucial to success, Romeril says. After working with Alberta Ferretti in Italy she decided to soften her tough aesthetic.

“My time there taught me about another form of femininity and beauty that is evident in the SS15 collection, where lace-patch pockets and rain macs made of lenticular plastics are points of interest.”

In Ireland you can buy her designs at Havana, Dublin, and Samui, Cork.

International stockists include Joyce, Hong Kong, a destination boutique, and Ikram, Chicago, whose owner Ikram Goldman serves as an unofficial stylist to First Lady Michelle Obama.

Online, she’s exclusive to Avenue32, a fashion site set up by Erin Mullaney, a former buyer for Browns and Harrods, who has a reputation as a serious talent spotter. And Romeril is certainly talented. The British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN scheme, a mentoring programme supported by Topshop, whose past winners include Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Erdem Moralioglu, is supporting her for a second season.

At her first scheduled presentation at London Fashion Week, how does she plan to stand out in the hordes of young talent baying for attention? “You have to focus on what you want to say and you have to create an interesting presentation that is uniquely yours, not borrowed from someone else.” danielleromeril.com; avenue32.com

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CULTURE | DUBLIN

drama

CITY OF

This month the curtain rises on Dublin’s Theatre Festival and Fringe Festival. What do the people involved in creating this magic make of it all? Eithne Shortall finds out. Photographs

by Sean Breithaupt and Yvette Monahan.

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Opposite, Project Arts Centre.

This page, singer/actress Camille O’Sullivan, who’s performing at Dublin Fringe: “I like venues that aren’t set up as a theatrical space. It’s great when one minute you’re having a sandwich and the next you’re in a prison cell with a guy who’s acting.”

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CULTURE | DUBLIN

ublin,” says theatre director Garry Hynes, “is a walkable city”. Indeed take a 20-minute stroll along the thoroughfare and you’ll have passed the main sites of Ireland’s most important contemporary and historical theatrical happenings. Just off O’Connell Street is Ireland’s national theatre, the Abbey (abbeytheatre.ie) – the site of public outcry and riots in the early 1900s, and a new Mark O’Rowe play this month, Our Few and Evil Days. At the top of that main street sits the Gate Theatre (gatetheatre.ie), which generally offers international fare to complement the Abbey’s Irish focus, but is staging The Mariner, a new play by Irish writer Hugo Hamilton from the last week of this month.

Wander along Dame Street and you’ll find the Olympia, an 1870s music hall and now popular performance venue. For October, it will be the home to Brigit, a new Tom Murphy play directed by Hynes and staged as part of the Dublin Theatre

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Above, the Gate theatre and, right, the Smock Alley theatre in Temple Bar. Inset, Cara writer Eithne Shortall.

Festival (September 25 to October 12; dublintheatrefestival.com).

Swing down towards the River Liffey and you’ll find yourself in Temple Bar where the Project Arts Centre (projectartscentre.ie), an experimental venue, was founded by film director Jim Sheridan among others in the 1970s. For the month of September, the Project and Temple Bar will be the focal point of the Tiger Dublin Fringe (September 5-20; fringefest.com).

“There are spectacle shows, and generally people are milling

around trying to see everything,” says Shaun Dunne, a 25-year-old playwright involved in Advocacy, a Fringe show based around Ireland’s intellectual disability services.

“There’s a holiday atmosphere, particularly around Temple Bar. People are going for drinks, coffees, dinners, and then catching a dance or theatre piece afterwards. It’s like a music festival but without the muck and wellies.”

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CULTURE | DUBLIN

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EAT Mention the Trocadero (4 St Andrew’s Street, 01 677 5545; trocadero.ie) and most Dubliners think “theatre”. This Irish institution has long been the choice of culture vultures looking to dine before a play and actors looking to dissect their performances afterwards. The Hot Stove (38 Parnell Square West, 01 874 7778; thehotstove. ie) offers an excellent early bird menu, especially if heading to the nearby Gate Theatre afterwards. Artistic types can be found enjoying some excellent coffee and tasty lunch at venues such as The Fumbally (Fumbally Lane, 01 529 8732; thefumbally.ie) and Brother Hubbard (153 Capel Street, 01 441 1112; brotherhubbard.ie).

DRINK For bar-stool philosophers and literary associations, go no further than Grogan’s (15 South William Street; groganspub.ie). The outdoor seating is perfect for people watching and an early evening pint when the weather is good. Theatre artists are often found at the Bison Bar (11 Wellington Quay; bisonbar.ie), where whiskey is the speciality. The locked door and buzzer at the Hacienda (15 Little Mary Street) can be intimidating, but if the likable proprietor Shay admits you entry, you’ll be drinking in one of the city’s most charming establishments. Look out for the portrait wall of actors – including Matthew McConaughey – who have previously propped up the oldfashioned bar.

before it had sovereignty – and the city is proud of its three playwright Nobel laureates: WB Yeats, George Bernard Shaw and Samuel Beckett. The enthusiasm showed no signs of abating with the opening in 2010 of Bord Gáis Energy Theatre (bordgaisgenergy theatre.ie), envisaged as a Dublin home for West End musicals, which doubled the number of theatre seats available in the city. To understand why Dubliners remain so enthusiastic about theatre, there is no better time to visit than during the “festival frenzy” that grips the 58 |

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Irish capital every autumn.

The Fringe takes over the city for 16 days, offering a programme of traditional plays and experimental work. Unlike Edinburgh, or many of the world’s best-known fringe festivals, the event is entirely curated. This year marks the event’s 20th anniversary and its artistic director, Kris Nelson, says the “festival vibe” is best soaked up at Meeting House Square in Temple Bar where Jape, DJ Kormac and Inuk throat singer Tanya Tagaq will be among the musical acts. “We’ll also have Deep Aerobics; it’s an

Catching the off-stage buzz – the Trocadero restaurant is an institution for theatre-goers and actors alike.

hour-long workout starting at 9pm,” says Nelson, highlighting the unusual events for which the festival is known. The 2014 programme also boasts a strong comedy line-up, with popular acts such as Eleanor Tiernan and Foil, Arms and Hog listed alongside new talents Conor O’Toole and Alison Spittle.

When the Fringe wraps up, the city barely catches its breath before the Theatre Festival gets underway.

Currently in its seventh decade, it is arguably Ireland’s most anticipated annual cultural event and the

City backdrops, clockwise from top left: Grogan’s pub; Fringe artistic director Kris Nelson; the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre; George’s Street Arcade, and The Long Hall bar.

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Stay at ...

NEW WAVE The hippest hotel in town is beside the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, which is hosting a production of Shakespeare’s Hamlet during the theatre festival. The Marker (Grand Canal Square, Docklands, 01 687 5100; themarkerhoteldublin.com) has been praised for its cuttingedge architecture, laidback feel and spectacular roof-top bar where staff provide heated blankets to those feeling the chill. Package deals, including tickets to the adjacent theatre, are available. Rooms from €171.

THESPIAN SPLENDOUR In bygone days, The Gresham (23 Upper O’Connell Street, 01 874 6881; gresham-hotels-dublin.com) welcomed international actors such as Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and Grace Kelly. The old-world hotel has retained its theatrical significance thanks to its central location on Dublin’s main street. Slap-bang between the Abbey and the Gate, the hotel regularly accommodates visiting stars performing at these prestigious venues. Rooms from €105.

CHEAP SEATS If you’re looking to soak up the mayhem that goes with the Dublin Fringe, then you’ve got to stay in Temple Bar. Barnacles Hostel (19 Temple Lane South, 01 671 6277; barnacles.ie) is well situated for the more experimental venues and popular after-party destinations. Dorm beds from €12.

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Right, Willie White, artistic director of Dublin Theatre Festival, says it is “part of a mosaic that makes Dublin an attractive place to be”. Below, The Marker’s spectacular rooftop bar.

2014 programme is particularly promising. Tom Murphy and fellow playwright Deirdre Kinahan are staging new works, while Shakespeare enthusiasts can see the Irish première of Schaubühne Berlin’s celebrated production of Hamlet at the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre. Réiltín, a new play from Paul Mercier, is the first Irish language production at the festival since 1997. Running on the Abbey’s Peacock stage, it tells the story of a girl living in post-boom Ireland with ambitions to become a singer.

Willie White, artistic director of the theatre festival, says he is trying to deliver a snapshot of the contemporary Dublin theatre scene.

“The more you go, the more richly textured your experience becomes,” he says, “but if you’re coming to find out about Irish playwriting, the places to look are, of course, the Abbey where there’s a new Mark O’Rowe play and the Gate where there’s a new Hugo Hamilton.

“If you want to discover artists who are not so well known, look at venues like the Beckett theatre, the Project and Smock Alley where

Irish companies are presenting their work. If you want to have a really unusual and intimate experience, the fourth part of Anu Production’s Monto Cycle is running throughout the festival.” Site-specific theatre is popular in Dublin, and Anu Production’s Vardo is a one-on-one performance delivered across a private home, public space and art gallery.

“I love the smaller venues, when they use churches, or Bewley’s Café (bewleyscafetheatre.com) for lunchtime theatre,” says Camille O’Sullivan. The singer, who took part in the first Dublin Fringe, is celebrating her 20-year connection with the event in an eclectic musical show at Meeting House Square. “I like venues that aren’t set up completely as a theatrical space. It’s great when one minute you’re having a sandwich and the next you’re in a prison cell with a guy who’s acting. The city comes alive with these two festivals.”

Certainly, being in Dublin for theatre season isn’t just about seeing as many plays as possible. There are art installations, post-show discussions and public interviews

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Five theatre highlights …

1

Brigit, Olympia Theatre: New work from Tom Murphy is always a reason to get excited – especially when it involves the internationally acclaimed Irish playwright partnering with Druid theatre company. Brigit is a prequel to Bailegangaire, Murphy’s 1984 work, and stars Marie Mullen as the matriarchal protagonist. dublintheatrefestival.com

2

Our Few and Evil Days, Abbey theatre: The latest offering from Mark O’Rowe, acclaimed author of Terminus, is a chilling exploration of the limits of devotion. It stars Sinéad Cusack, Ciarán Hinds and Tom Vaughan-Lawlor. dublintheatrefestival.com

3

The National Therapy Project, Liberty Hall: Eleanor Tiernan’s show is part of an impressive comedy line-up at this year’s Tiger Dublin Fringe. The comedian will be

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holding a mock, state-sanctioned therapy class aimed at helping the nation come to terms with being Irish. fringefest.com

4

Vardo, meet at Oonagh Young Gallery: Anu Productions has been developing its four-part Monto Cycle since 2011. Vardo is the final instalment. This sitespecific work looks at the large foreign population currently living in a small area of Dublin’s north inner city. Expect one-on-one performances. dublintheatrefestival.com

5

A Girl is a Half-Formed Thing, Samuel Beckett Theatre: Eimear McBride’s experimental novel has been praised for its modernist style. Not usually a genre that delivers bestsellers, this tale of a damaging Irish childhood became just that. Annie Ryan directs the stage adaptation and Aoife Duffin stars. dublintheatrefestival.com

Left, Garry Hynes of the Druid theatre company in the Olympia.

Below, a portrait of W B Yeats dominates the foyer of the Abbey Theatre.

with actors and writers. Meanwhile, Dublin’s bars and cafés can be just as important for soaking up the atmosphere. As White puts it: “There’s no point going to the theatre if you can’t get a nice cup of coffee or a good meal.”

For festival season, Temple Bar shifts its focus from drinking culture to the more artistic kind.

The box office for the Fringe is located at Filmbase in Temple Bar. After collecting some tickets, check out the superb coffee and cakes on offer upstairs at Roasted Brown (Curved Street). The Garage Bar (Essex Street East, 01 679 6543; garagebar.ie) is conveniently located opposite the Project Arts Centre.

Popular with younger Dubliners, it’s great for a pre-show tipple.

Wander a few metres from Temple Bar and you’ll find The

Liquor Rooms (5 Wellington Quay; theliquorrooms.com). Its table service and chic cabaret décor have made it popular with thespians seeking some relaxed glamour.

Next door is The Workman’s Club (10 Wellington Quay, 01 670 6692; theworkmansclub.com), a popular choice for young theatre makers looking to dance into the wee hours.

Hynes, who will also be directing a revival of Tom Murphy’s Bailegangaire (1984), advises visitors to soak up the city on their way to the theatre.

“Eat some great food, go to great pubs and enjoy the pints,” she says. “Just become part of Dublin for the few days you’re there. I’m not a great pub person myself but for restaurants, I would certainly recommend Etto (18 Merrion

Row, 01 678 8872; etto.ie), and for one of the best sandwiches anywhere, Busyfeet and Coco Café (41 South William Street, 01 671 9514).”

When O’Sullivan has theatrical friends visiting from overseas, she likes to take them to cosy Dublin pubs that don’t play music.

“I like Brogans (75 Dame Street, 01 679 9570), The Stag’s Head (1 Dame Court, 01 679 3687; stagshead.ie) and The Long Hall (51 South Great George’s Street, 01 475 1590); the old-fashioned bars where you meet interesting artists and poets and vagabonds,” she says.

“Steps of Rome (1 Chatham Street, 01 670 5639; stepsofrome.ie) I like as a little Italian restaurant. There’s also a lovely Italian place off Meeting House Square, Il Baccaro (01 671 4597; ilbaccarodublin.com). It’s like a

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CULTURE | DUBLIN

PHOENIX PARK

GATE THEATRE

Below, a production at the Bewley’s Café Theatre. Bottom, Louise Lowe of Anu Productions in Blessington Street Basin, a popular recreational spot for the theatre community.

THE ABBEY THEATRE

ABBEY THEATRE

olympia THEATRE

grill OLYMPIA

BOXES

OLYMPIA THEATRE

VICAR ST

BEWLEYS CAFE THEATRE

SMOCK ALLEY THEATRE GaIEty THEATRE

BORD GÁIS ENERGY THEATRE

TIVOLI

little cave. For coffee, I suppose you bring them to Bewley’s (78 Grafton Street, 01 672 7720; bewleys.com).

It’s a long living establishment. And then any place in George’s Street Arcade; bring them through to do some retro shopping.”

Both festivals have international strands. The Fringe is focusing on Canada this year, while the Theatre Festival is welcoming performers from the UK, Belgium and Australia. Many of the international artists taking part in the Theatre Festival stay at The Westbury (off Grafton Street, 01 679 1122; doylecollection.com) and The Croke Park Hotel (Jones’s Road, 01 871 4444; doylecollection.com).

White advises visiting artists to make the most of Dublin’s compact size. “If you go to the theatre, usually it’s in the evening, so the question is what are you going to do during the day?” he says. “When I go to another city to see work, I’ll go to the galleries. Many of our cultural attractions are open during the day throughout the week, except maybe Monday. An easy journey out of town, and a nice way to spend an afternoon, is 64 |

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DUBLIN

Trocadero restaurant

ST. STEPHEN’S GREEN

CITY OF DRAMA the Phoenix Park. It’s free, just take the bus. Or get the Dart out to the seaside. The theatre festival is part of a mosaic that makes Dublin an attractive place to be.”

Another outdoor attraction popular with Ireland’s theatre artists is Blessington Street Basin in Phibsborough. Louise Lowe, founder of Anu Productions, says she meets a lot of actors, playwrights and directors at the small, northside park. “It seems to be a place where the theatre community hang out, read, walk the dog, go for a bit of fresh air,” she says. “The whole city has a real vibrancy and buzz about it during the festivals. There’s a real sense of celebrating what’s brilliant about Irish and international theatre in the one place. It’s a great time to be in Dublin.”

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As many as 300 people per week become connectors through this DAA & Shannon Airport Authority assistance. Aer Lingus has always been a fantastic ambassador for Ireland. Cabin Crew kindly make a ConnectIreland announcement on many of their flights and we are very grateful to them for helping to attract companies and jobs to Ireland.

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Domhnaill O’Sullivan’s conversation with an overseas investor has resulted in 100 new jobs for Shannon and Dublin, a life-changing connection which has transformed the lives of the new employees, their families and wider communities in the West of Ireland.

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“With his approval I got in touch with ConnectIreland, gave them a background on Pepper and their vision together with Mike’s contact details. ConnectIreland got in immediate contact with him and within 48 hours, they were meeting in Dublin and it just took off from there”.

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SOUTHERN SOUL Landscapes filled with sunflower fields, white-walled villages, Moorish castle ruins and rural bodega lure Tamara Thiessen to the 180-kilometre Route of the Caliphate, between Córdoba and Granada. Photographs by Piotr Dybowski.

Big country – an old Moorish castle dominates the town of Montefrío in Anadalusia. The fortress was an important frontier defence during the 15th century.

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bout 15 years ago, in a Barcelona bodega, I met two designers from New York who convinced me over fishbowl-sized glasses of sangria to go the extra 1,100 kilometres by train to Seville overnight. I over-slept and woke in Málaga – Picasso’s birthplace, and a magnet for beer-drinking Brits seeking coastal respite from inland temperature extremes.

It was then I got my first taste of the enormity of Spain – and for the virtues of sangria as an antidote to Andalusia’s searing summer heat. Ancient cartographers compared the sundried Iberian Peninsula – that stretch of land

A

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between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean Costa del Sol – to the skull of a bull. The land was baptised Iberia – “land of rivers” – by the Moors, who invaded in 711, passing from Morocco to Gibraltar. Andalusia’s southernmost point – Punta Oliveros – lies just 14.4 kilometres from Morocco’s Punta Cires across the Strait of Gibraltar, and is closer in spirit in many ways to the culture of Northern Africa than Spain.

Bigger than Austria or Switzerland, Andalusia – Spain’s “Deep South” – makes up one fifth of the country’s 504,748 square kilometres. The exotic colours and flavours, festivals, music and dance of the ancient Moorish kingdom of Al-Andalus have been luring me

Celsius block – shutters and blinds keep the heat out on the streets of Málaga. This coastal city is some 10 degrees cooler than inland. Left, Cara writer Tamara Thiessen.

back for years. The temperatures here also approximate Africa. It’s the hottest part of Spain, with inland temperatures reaching 37 to 40-plus degrees Celsius, compared to 18-28 degrees in Málaga.

Much of Andalusia’s soul can be unearthed along the Route of the Caliphate, designated by the European Council as a Cultural Itinerary. It’s an old trading way that connects two of Al-Andalus’s most spectacular monuments – the great Mosque Cathedral of Córdoba

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Cultural pick ‘n’ mix – clockwise from top left, the Generalife (literally, the “architect’s gardens”) close to the Alhambra in Granada; a shop in the Albacín area of the city exudes Arabic atmosphere; a view of the Mezquita (mosque) of Córdoba; former flamenco dancer Dolores Fernandez at La Poronna restaurant in Granada’s Moorish quarter; Views of Granada from the Alhambra.

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Stay at …

MÁLAGA In the fishing village of Pedregalejo, east of Málaga, La Chancla (Paseo Maritimo El Pedregal 64, +34 952 206 900; lachanclahotel. com) is a sweet seaside hotel, with just nine rooms and on-street parking.

Double rooms from €85. For more of a splurge, in pedestrianised downtown Málaga, try design and business-edged Hotel Molina Lario (Molina Lario 2022, +34 952 062 020; hotelmolinalario. com). Double rooms from €218.

GRANADA Some 30 minutes from Granada, in Monachil, you can have a blissful night in the chic, family-run casa rustica (rural house) La Almunia del Valle (Camino de la Umbría, +34 958 308 010; laalmuniadelvalle. com) on the edge of Sierra Nevada Natural Park, with splendid setting and views, rooms with terraces, as well as garden, library, dining room and pool.

Doubles from €90. ÚBEDA Antiquity and aristocratic charm reign in the 16th-century Palacio de la Rambla (Plaza del Marqués 1, +34 953 75 01 96; palaciodelarambla. com). Double rooms from €120 including breakfast.

ON YOUR BIKE

Cycling Country delivers and collects rental bikes to and from hotels in Málaga and Granada, and other destinations on request (Calle Salmerones 18, Alhama de Granada, +34 958 360 655, +34 628 163 032; cyclingcountry.com). See also Route of the Caliphate on a Bicycle

by Asociación Cultural Al Burak (2005), part of which can be read on books. google.ie

BAEZA The modern and brightly furnished Fuentenueva Hotel (Calle Carmen 15, +34 953 743 100; fuentenueva.com) has a garden, library and small sun deck, with some of its 13 rooms sleeping up to five persons. Double rooms from €78.

CÓRDOBA Quaint, clean, central and good value, the Santa Ana Hostal (Calle Cardenal Gonzalez 25, +34 957 485 837; hostalsantaana.com) has basic facilities, spacious rooms, simple pleasant furnishings and free internet. Double rooms from €57. For a splurge try the 18th-century Balcón de Córdoba (Calle Encarnación 8, +34 957 498 548; balcondecordoba.com) with its romantic, panoramic terrace views of the old town. Double rooms from €250. For accommodation in a range of rural haciendas, try the Rustica group; rustica.es.

Picture perfect – visitors take selfies with the Alhambra of Granada in the background.

and the Alhambra palace and citadel in Granada.

Both are World Heritage sites – testimony to the days when Córdoba was the capital of Muslim Spain. From the seventh until the 15th centuries, the ruling Caliph of Córdoba spread his influence and artistic riches through the region, in the form of bejewelled palaces and Moorish fortresses, majestic ornate gardens and temples. Many of these lie along the mountainous Route of the Caliphate, amid sunflowers, olive groves and white-walled villages.

The beauty of travelling it with a friend is that Benoit and I can share driving and sangria-drinking responsibilities. After a morning drive from the coast through the Sierra Nevada, we arrive in Granada. Manoeuvring a car in the labyrinth of narrow, no-go streets around the Albaicín is tricky and we pay €20 parking for the joy of spending a night in this medieval

Arabic medina, within walking distance of the Alhambra palace.

Later we climb up among its white stone walls and ornate houses, in time to catch the sunset on the Alhambra on the opposite hillside, bathing its honeyed walls and velvety green forest in cherry-tinted light.

From the Arabic for red fort, al-qalca al-hamra, the Alhambra was the seat of the Nasrid dynasty sultans from 1238 to 1492. The citadel and its adjoining palaces and Generalife (“architect’s gardens”) are often cited as the eighth wonder of the world. The fortified hilltop ensemble – conceived as a royal city as well as bastion – contains houses, streets, towers, gardens, fountains and watercourses.

Late one evening, we are seated at a bar in the Albaicín, in ear shot of an at-home flamenco show. The hills reverberate with the chants, claps, guitar music that are the sound of the soul of Andalusia. It’s hardly surprising that Arabian princes and gypsy commoners have all chosen to reside up here, in this ethereal realm of forest and sky.

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Right, looking out over the Andalucian plains from the hilltop castle at Moclín.

Below, sunflowers brighten the Route of the Caliphate.

Eat at ...

In the Málaga fishing village of Paseo Maritimo, El Cabra (El Pedregal, + 34 952 291 595; restauranteelcabra.es) is a good, moderately-priced seafood restaurant.

Wine dens do not come more traditional than Bar Santos (Calle Magistral González Francés 3, Córdoba), where you pay €3 for a cerveza (beer) and tapas plus many other drinks and “tapas tipicas”. Also in Córdoba, Taberna San Miguel (Plaza San Miguel 1, +34 957 470 166; casaelpisto.com) is a character-packed, fairly-priced wooden den with local food and wines and excellent raciones. You will also find very tasty tapas and raciones, plus Mediterranean meals, at Restaurante El Zaguán (Plaza Emilio Sánchez, Úbeda, +34 953 790 244; restauranteelzaguan.es).

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along the N432 to the medieval hilltop village of Moclin. The views from its 14th-century Moorish castle ruins – presiding over the valley like a ship hulk at an altitude of 1,065 metres – touch the snow tips of the Sierra Nevada and Granada.

One- to two-hour walking trails lead through forests, ravines and chalky landscapes to villages such as Olivares and Tózar – the latter is an archaeological hive of Stone Age rock formations and cave paintings.

It would be a crime to bypass Úbeda and neighbouring Baeza – a

slight detour to the north east in the Jaen province. They were both listed

by UNESCO as World Heritage sites in 1993 for a treasure trove of Renaissance architecture, inherited during a wave of humanistic ideas from Italy in the 16th century.

Along the road between Granada and Úbeda, typical Andalusian landscapes of parched fields of sunflowers start to unfurl like origami through the window. We pass several chalky walled villages, nested like doves on this scorched earth. Ever present on the horizon are the sun-seared silhouettes of the Sierra Morena mountains.

Our stay at the 16thcentury Palacio de la Rambla (palaciodelarambla.com) is one of the most thrilling parts of our Andalusian escapade: from aperitif time in the salon amid period paintings and portraits of noble marquises, to soaking in a claw-foot bath in our heavy-curtained, wood-

Killarney in County Kerry has long been established as the most popular destination for golfers visiting the Emerald Isle. With its breath-taking scenery, abundance of luxury accommodation and lively bars and restaurants, the picturesque town is the ideal venue from which to explore the golfing gems of the South West of Ireland.

Killarney Golf & Fishing Club was established in 1893 and is one of the oldest golf clubs in the country. Nestled amidst unrivalled lake and mountain scenery, the two Championship courses – Killeen & Mahony’s Point – are set in a 25,000 acre National Park, which is the largest in

the country and home to the only remaining herd of native Red Deer.

Walk in the footsteps of golfing greats such as Padraig Harrington, Rory McIlroy, Graeme McDowell, Sir Nick Faldo & Gary Player and take in this slice of golfing heaven.

Enjoy panoramic views of the lakes while indulging in our great food and drink, in the friendly and relaxed atmosphere of our Horseshoe Bar & Grillroom.

Our courses have never been in better shape, so why not give us a call now and enjoy the best value in Irish golf at Killarney Golf & Fishing Club.

Killeen At 7252 yards from the Championship tees, the Killeen course is amongst the most challenging in the country.

A four time host venue of the European Tour’s Irish Open Championship, the beauty of the natural setting is matched by the treachery of the layout with water in play in virtually every hole.

Mahony’s Point At 6800 yards, Mahony’s Point offers golfers a more relaxing round from a scoring perspective. The course offers stunning lakeside views of Ireland’s highest mountain range, the MacGillycuddy Reeks.

SPAIN | ROAD TRIP

Decorative detail inside the Alhambra Palace in Granada.

The citadel and its gardens are often cited as the eighth wonder of the world.

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furnished quarters off the internal patio. Benoit is in his element, nestled in a velvety couch writing postcards. Until that is, the everimportant topic of food arises again.

The bodega and taberna of Jaen Province, like those of Granada, vigorously uphold the Andalusian tradition of serving a free tapa with a drink, whether it is a bowl of olives, some fried cheese, quesa, frittata or smoked ham, jambon. A variety of larger sized versions of these – raciónes – make a decent, inexpensive meal. At the Restaurante El Zaguán (restauranteelzaguan.es) we eat berenjenas fritas (fried aubergine), tomato salad and ochios – olive oil brioche flavoured with paprika and pork – before tucking into some andrajos, a local potato and cod stew.

In the morning, we walk around the hilly town, through the Conjunto Histórico, the ensemble of Renaissance buildings and squares and baroque ornamentation between the Plaza de Vázquez de Molina and bell-towered Hospital de Santiago,

Three highlights …

1

Hovering above Granada in a maze of mountainous streets, the UNESCO-designated World Heritage site of Albaicín is a village cobbled to the parched slopes of Sacromonte, within the old city walls. Thousands of gypsies who had fled from India once lived in the caves of the “Holy Mountain”. Today many of the 3,500 cave dwellings in this ancient Moorish quarter are decked with ceramics and high-tech fittings – and some of the flamenco shows put on here are considered a tourist trap.

2

Opposite is the Alhambra Palace. In the 14th century the Alhambra was a potent symbol of the fading Al-Andalus rulers. Today it is a wondrous landmark of the splendour of Nasrid arts and Islamic architecture, from its intricately decorated columns of rhombuses and stylised vegetal forms to interior facades of textiles, false arches, delicate plasterwork, glazed ceramics and Alizäre mosaic tiles with typically green, gold and silver metallic overglaze – known as “golden pottery” or lusterware. alhambra-patronato.es

now home to the town hall. There is no greater sign of friendship than being offered half a kilogram of saffron – worth its weight in gold – as a reward for helping Benoit pick out some handcrafted soaps and ceramics for his mother. I am excited about the prospect of trying to reproduce some paella back home.

The Route of the Caliphate (Ruta del Califato) continues towards Córdoba, past olive groves, vineyards and crumbling fortifications, weaving in and out of the Ruta del Aceite – the olive oil route. Another detour takes us to Zuheros – a beautiful pueblo blanco crouched in the Parque Natural Sierras Subbéticas. Many walking tours along the Route of the Caliphate concentrate on the nature reserve, and white stone hamlets in the limestone foothills and fertile ripples of these 1,500-metre mountains – Baroque ornamented Priego de Córdoba, Carcabuey, red-hued Luque and Cabra – meaning “goat”, which you need to

Thereisnogreatersignoffriendship thanbeingofferedhalfakilogramof saffron–worthitsweightingold

3

An earlier show of Islamic architectural supremacy, Córdoba’s eighth-centuryonwards Mezquita – initially a mosque, later a cathedral – spreads over 24,000 square metres and has a forest of classical columns and pillars, topped with ochre and tan-brick, double horseshoe arches, in Roman, Greek and other architectural styles. mezquitadecordoba.org/en

Right, a tree stands tall in a field of harvested wheat along the old trading route between Granada and Córdoba.

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be to tackle some of its streets.

We have about 60 kilometres and a seemingly straightforward finishing stretch to Córdoba.

To the north, the camel-humped foothills of the Sierra Morena are like a hazy apparition from the Arabian Nights. Perhaps it’s a combination of heat fatigue and surreal scenery which makes us lose our minds – and direction. Two hours later we realise we have long left Andalusia and have wound up in the region of Castilla La Mancha – by following directions to Espiel, instead of Espejo. Blunders often have a bright side however: in a week we have touched on six out of eight of Andalusia’s provinces, with a good balance between the planned and the impromptu, and a dash of the precarious.

It is worth spending at least two days in Córdoba – not only to recover from such mishaps – it is a treasure chest of Arabian jewels with an architectural wealth rivalling Constantinople and relaxing evening ambience. The town packs 300 mosques, museums and palaces within its fortified chalky walls. The Mezquita is the third biggest mosque in the world after Casablanca and Mecca. Within its forest of 856 intricately carved columns of jasper, onyx, marble and granite, I can see what led French writer Victor Hugo to utter “the eye loses itself in the wonders”. Its orange, lemon and olive-tree-decked Patio de los 78 |

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ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA McAREE

Below, Puerta del Puente, the Renaissance gate linking Córdoba to its Roman bridge. Bottom, Córdoba’s Great Mosque, a treasure chest of Arab jewels.

Naranjos is the size of two Olympic swimming pools. We take shade under its massive date palms, with their two-metre wide trunks, as Córdoba fries away like a frittata in the all-consuming heat.

We head back towards Malaga the next day. Crossing the River Guadalquivir, the views stretch beyond the white-walled houses and rooster-red tiled roofs to the fertile plains of la campiña, the countryside of Córdoba.

Eventually we do arrive in the church-topped village of Espejo, its milk-white walls tinged pink in the setting sun.

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EXPLORE | LAKE MAGGIORE

A street in Cannobio leads down to the lake shore. Cannobio is the largest town on the lake.

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The class lake

It is the least well-known of Italy’s great waterways but visitors to Lake Maggiore find that’s an asset. Time slows down as John Butler lives like a local. Photographs by Mark Duggan.

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n a country that is famous for Como and Garda, how can it be that Lake Maggiore (the major lake, after all) is the least-heralded of Italy’s great bodies of water? Well, it transpires that Lake Garda is the biggest lake in terms of volume, and the smallest of the three, Lake Como, has gained a leg-up in profile from its undeniable attraction to the rich and famous.

Sylvester Stallone, Madonna, Ronaldinho and George Clooney all have homes along its shores and, although it might be pleasing to spot these residents high-fiving each other exultantly from astride their diamond-encrusted jet-skis, Lake Maggiore is equally splendid, and a

I

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little more low-key, in the best way.

I think they call it class, darling.

Maggiore takes its name from its length: 64 kilometres of crystal blue water stretching from the snowy peaks (even in high summer) of the Swiss Alps in the north, to the plains of Lombardy in the south. The landscape blends verdant mountain passes and the slanted roofs of ski-lodges with sun-bleached Mediterranean villages and spits of beach sloping into the water. Drive time from Milan Malpensa airport is under an hour; if you don’t want to drive, many of the lakeside hotels operate complimentary airport transfers via coach directly to the

Clockwise from top left, a boy drinks from a fountain in Cannobio, deckchairs face the sun in Stresa, a market stall in Cannobio, and Cara’s John Butler.

door. This place is supremely do accessible, and cheap and ac frequent public ferry services fr between each town and the be islands of the lake mean that is even ev without a car, you won’t feel remotely constrained. fe A wide variety of hotel options are strung along the lake, but the three towns to consider as a base are Cannobio, Baveno and Stresa. Each town has its own flavour and a few nights in each – if you have time – is to be recommended. Cannobio is the largest of the three, wherein

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a steep descent through narrow cobbled streets reveals a beautifully preserved lake-front promenade with a long terrace of restaurants, bars and gelato shops right at the water’s edge. Cannobio is beautiful, and every degree of activity is catered for here, from windsurfing lessons and boat rental to swimming and renting pedalos at the lido on the north end; to lying in the park or ambling along the lake front piazza to the south, soaking up the sun. It’s impossible to overstate just how gentle and convivial the atmosphere is here in the shadow of many buildings restored from the 1600s.

The town of Baveno is considerably smaller and more resembles a village on the French Riviera, with its own ferry port, a tiny clutch of buildings with a small square (including a great restaurant called Ristorante Posta), and a couple of nice waterfront bars.

Churchill honeymooned here, you know, and I always take travel tips from Winston. Down by the water, stalls sometimes offer local wares (art, cheeses, honey and so on) during the week, but that’s about it in terms of excitement, and that’s a very good thing. Take a drink by the water of an evening, and all you’ll hear is the clacking of sails.

A five-minute drive south lies the town of Stresa and, in terms of scale, it’s somewhere between the aforementioned options – a marginally more touristy affair arranged around a bustling main piazza with a great selection of restaurants serving traditional Italian food of uniformly excellent quality (because if yours wasn’t, you would be out of business pronto).

Here, you can buy Acqua di Stresa, the locally produced perfume, eau de cologne and soap that gives the more celebrated Acqua di Parma

It’s impossible to overstate just how gentle and convivial it is here in the shadow of many buildings restored from the 1600s.

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Clockwise from left, chef Roberto Minolli at work in Ristorante Posta, Baveno, the local favourite Aperol Spritz cocktail, locals gathering at the Bar Moka in Stresa, and people disembarking at Stresa pier from a boat tour of the lake.

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EXPLORE | LAKE MAGGIORE

Stay at …

Take note that some of the more maddening aspects of Italian culture are present in hotel life, such as additional charges for parking, counter-intuitive opening and closing hours for various facilities, and an abiding love of forms to be filled – in triplicate. In one hotel, the Internet can only be accessed by participating in a long, customerservice survey at a wood-panelled kiosk to the side of the reception, after which particularly stultifying arcade game you’re rewarded with the Wi-Fi code on a printed sticker.

In another hotel, you have to sign three forms to access the Wi-Fi, and even then the code comes in the form of a scratch card.

SPLURGE A double room with breakfast in Hotel Pironi, a former Franciscan monastery in the heart of Cannobio, runs from €160-€200 a night. It’s small, cosy, beautifully decorated and, best of all, you’re slap bang in the heart of the most atmospheric and buzziest of the lakeside towns.

Locarno is a short drive north across the Swiss border, and the lovely smaller villages of Cannero Riviera and Oggebbio lie to the south. (Via Marconi 35, Cannobio, +39 0323 70624; pironihotel.it)

a run for its money. “In Stresa, no stress!” proclaims a good percentage of the locally produced tea towels on sale, and they’re right. Although there is a great number of activities along the lake, this region is geared towards a more traditional and gently paced holiday, so come here to eat, stroll, sit eating icecream among the nonnas on a lazy afternoon, or to take a table at a bar and watch the world go by in the company of a Peroni or espresso.

When you’re away you’re undoubtedly a tourist, but the most pleasure comes in trying to live like a local. The gelateria K2 in Stresa serves ice-flowers, 86 |

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The atmospheric dining room at the Regina Palace Hotel in Stresa.

MID-RANGE The rococo, over-stuffed Regina Palace Hotel is a shrine to gilded Eurovacation days of yore. The enormous, high-ceilinged breakfast room is painted custard-yellow, throughout which waiters in white bolero coats furnish you with coffee and cakes (cakes!) for breakfast.

You half-expect Marie Antoinette to sweep in at any point and order the removal of someone’s head. This Belle Époque glamour befits a hotel that opened in 1906 and the modern touches, such as the indoor pool in the basement, with steam room and sauna and

ambient chambers that spritz you with water as you wander through only add to the atmosphere.

There’s also a decent outdoor pool and access to the lake, across the road. A double room with breakfast is €160.

(Corso Umberto I, Stresa, 29, +39 0323 936 936; reginapalace.it) BUDGET The interior of the Hotel Splendid in Baveno is a tad more restrained, with a wide, wood-panelled lobby but still plenty of mirrors and sofas, and a great circular bar that leads onto the sun deck. Bedrooms have custom-painted scenes of lake life from times past, and heavy drapes. This is the only hotel with a private beach on Lake Maggiore and that counts for a lot.

However, life without it is no great hardship; a simple matter of crossing the road to swim in the lake, or of swimming instead in your hotel pool. But only here can you stroll with a coffee and pastry from the buffet breakfast down to claim a lounger, and then dive from the jetty into clear blue water. Rooms from €110.

(Strada Nazionale del Sempione, Baveno, +39 0323 924 583; splendid. zaccherahotels.com)

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EXPLORE | LAKE MAGGIORE

Don’t miss ...

1

VARESE Though technically not on Lake Maggiore, Varese on the east side of the lake might be your best bet for shopping, with the network of pedestrian streets just off Piazza Monto Grappa and on Via Cattaneo offering a ton of smaller stores.

2

SACRO MONTE Visitors to Varese come for the Sacro Monte, one of nine “sacred mountains” in the region designated

by UNESCO as heritage sites – northern Italy quite likes its holy mountains. From Vellone, take the funicular, or walk, climbing the mossy cobbles past the 18 small basilicas en route to the church at the summit. It’s a strenuous climb, but one which is worth it for the outrageous views. The church at the summit dates from the 1600s.

We dive at dawn – an early-morning swimmer takes a dip from the pontoon at Baveno.

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3

VILLA TARANTO What’s more sedate than wandering around a garden? A Scotsman called Neil McEachern is responsible for the design of the gardens of Villa Taranto, a quite awesome undertaking involving the cultivation of some 20,000 plant varieties, including a pond of lotus flowers.

Take a few hours to lose yourself wandering these trails across 16 hectares, before taking the winding, meditative switchback leading down. (Verbania Pallanza, +39 0323 556 667; villataranto.it)

4

BOAT RENTAL There’s a lot to be said for getting away from the sound of other voices. A great number of companies will rent you jet-skis and

windsurf boards but it is renting a boat that allows you to claim the lake as your own. You can take out boats of all sizes with a driver, but you need little enough in the way of waterway experience to go on your own, and in Baveno, the Semprinia company will give you the keys to a small 40-horsepower engine boat for the day for €80 – sure, she practically drives herself! Pack your towel and a lunch from the local supermarket, and the day is set. (+39 0323 775 200 424)

5

CABLE CAR Perspective is everything and for €18 return from Stresa, a cable car will take you on a 20-minute ride over the 40,000-square-metre Alpinia botanic gardens on the hill behind Stresa (allowing you to alight at Alpino to visit them), up to Mottarone, from which, on a clear day, you can see across the Po valley to the Swiss Alps. Tickets for the Alpine gardens are €3, but hardier souls can proceed, by foot or via a chair lift, to the higher peak of “Mottarone Vetta”, the price of the latter being included in your cable-car ticket.

different flavours panning out like petals from the cone. Bar Moka in Stresa offers terrific Italian cured meats and salami during a pretty raucous happy hour for locals and tourists alike. That orange-coloured drink in the large wine glass?

That’s Aperol spritz – three parts prosecco, two parts Aperol, one part soda water, and if you don’t love it, we’re through. Lombardy also offers great and inexpensive prosecco along with good local beers and, of course, the wonderful digestifs, from limoncello to grappa of all flavours, and strega, a herbal liqueur from southern Italy. Around the corner from Bar Moca, the Osteria degli Amici (+39 0323 30453) has some of the best pizza you’ll ever eat for under ten euro.

Not only does the water in Lake Maggiore flow from Switzerland, France and Germany, but this is a confluence of European cultures too, as people of each country unwind in their own inimitable fashion. In the morning time, a German family crank their speedboat, the still air punctured by engine noise and the sound of a Bavarian drinking song spilling from tinny speakers on board. In the afternoon you’ll hear English, Swiss and French voices comingling during visits to the many opulent villas open to the public, some of which have stunning gardens to explore. While in the evening before dinner, during the walking ritual of the passeggiata, Italian couples parade tiny,

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exquisite dogs up and down the seafront, trading gossip.

After an evening in Stresa or your local town of choice, the archipelago of Borromean Islands (named for the Milanese industrial family that owns them) makes for a great day trip. Isola Bella is something of a micro-country, boasting market stalls, bars, an Italianate garden stacked up to the south end and, to the north, a cute, miniscule beach. After that, the same one-day ferry ticket (€14) will take you to Isola dei Pescatori, a great place to stop for lunch. If you fancy returning for dinner here, Casabella (+39 0323 33471) will offer free transport to and from the island in the evening, while those who fetishise starched white linen and elegant stemware might want to try the more high-end Albergo (+39 0323 30408; hotelverbano.it) at the Hotel Verbano. Generally speaking, though, the island of Pescatori is a looser and less formal Above, relaxing on the Isola Madre. Right, from top, La Quartina restaurant on Lake Mergozzo, the dining room at La Cascinetta in Vezzo, and a dish from Ristorante Posta in Baveno.

Eat at ...

SPLURGE La Quartina is set on the shores of Lake Mergozzo, in another tiny, idyllic town on the edge of one of the smallest lakes in the region. Eat out on the balcony and watch the sun drop below the mountains, over seafood salad with lemon and olive oil, gnocchi with pesto, pine nuts and eel, ravioli with courgette flowers and rocket and trout fillet in Barolo sauce. (Via Pallanza 20, Mergozzo, +39 0323 80 118; laquartina.com) MID-RANGE The restaurants on the islands and all along on the lake shore cater almost exclusively to tourists, but if you want to get away from the lake and eat

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among the vacationing Milanese, ask your hotel to call Giancarlo and he will pick you up and drive you to the mountain village of Vezzo, where his restaurant, La Cascinetta, serves terrific contemporary Italian food in a rustic environment. The Inter Milan players Esteban Cambiasso and Javier Zanetti have eaten here, as did Mikhail Gorbachev. The exquisite seafood starter, a soufflé surrounded by octopus carpaccio, clams, the fillet of turbot in white wine and cherry tomato sauce and pasta with prosciutto neck was of a quality that befits the celebrities whose photos are on display. (Via Circonvallazione 2, Vezzo,

Gignese, +39 0323 20 780; cascinetta.it) BUDGET For me, in Italy, budget eating doesn’t involve an appreciable drop in standards. The linguini with trout, celeriac and thyme I ate at Ristorante Posta, on the edge of the tiny town square of Baveno, was the equal of anything in one of the more expensive places I visited. Also great is the gnocchi with aubergine sauce and carpaccio with Parmesan and walnuts.

A seat outside lets you listen to the lapping of water over clarinet jazz played by the local buskers. (Piazza Dante Alighieri 16, Baveno, +39 0323 924 509; ristorantepostabaveno.it)

EXPLORE | LAKE MAGGIORE

ILLUSTRATION BY KATHI BURKE

affair. Once you’re done there, sail on to Isola Madre, the largest of the islands, before returning home in time for a sundowner.

Berlusconi, Hemingway, Shaw – a rogue’s gallery of guests have visited Lake Maggiore and have even traipsed through the rococo lobby of my hotel. Princess Margaret would have cast her eyes upon the frescoes, the marble, the gilded mirrors, and the insane and savagely camp bright pink chandeliers that adorn the bar of the Regina Palace Hotel. Yet the hotels – and the atmosphere around them – are curiously non-exclusive.

This might be due to the fact that May and June are high season here, the end of the summer and early autumn much less so; Lake Maggiore is a pleasing combination of eccentric, overdesigned luxury and slow-paced life.

Holidays are as much a matter of tempo as they are location, so be warned: if you enjoy attaching a bungee cord to your body, watching your favourite band in a field full of ecstatic teenagers or feeling as if you’re being shot out of a cannon, then Lake Maggiore is not the region for you, emphatically not.

The tempo is lento, or adagio.

Holiday-makers here are mostly newly-weds, slightly older groups touring via car or buses, and the elderly woman I saw, fully madeup and wearing a peach pant-suit, listening to the piano in the lobby of the Regina Hotel on Sunday night, gently cooing the lyrics to “The Girl from Ipanema” into the ear of her Shih-Tzu terrier, resplendent in his own peach coat.

And who on earth is going to tell her that she’s not doing it right?

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A vintage Fiat 500 adds a splash of colour to the Regina Palace Hotel in Stresa.

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CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT WWW. AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery

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Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´

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Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

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TECH TOUR | SAN FRANCISCO

Valley of the geeks

To experience the fun and funky world of technology’s heartland that is Silicon Valley, start in San Francisco and then head south. Karlin Lillington maps out essential sights for techies. Photographs by Al Higgins.

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Rooms with a view – undulating San Francisco boasts many impressive vistas, not least this long-shot at the top of Lombard Street, a portion of which has a kneetrembling 27 per cent gradient.

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TECH TOUR | SAN FRANCISCO

he first thing you need to know when planning a visit to Silicon Valley is that it doesn’t really exist. At least not in any fixed geographical sense. Two decades ago, the phrase meant the Santa Clara Valley region, the former fruit orchard lands that stretch along the southwestern end of San Francisco Bay. Now, “The Valley” encompasses an area with the same economic and innovation mindset, and pretty much covers the whole expanse of what locals call “the Peninsula”: from San Francisco (emerging as the location of choice for internet companies) down to California’s garlic capital, Gilroy, and even, to some minds, across the bay and back up the far side towards Berkeley.

But for a proper geek tour that enables a visitor to experience the fun, funky, inspirational, energetic and sometimes odd world of technology’s heartland, focus on San Francisco and then head south.

You could just do a selective day trip from San Francisco but, ideally, allow yourself a couple of days to explore the region that, thanks to several generations of incredibly smart thinkers, tinkerers, coders and entrepreneurs, is home to the phenomenal, silicon-chip-based innovation that has driven the greatest creation of wealth in history (and of course, produced many tech-related jobs in Ireland).

This is also a very familyfriendly region for activities sure to please all ages (and you may find your kids are seriously impressed forever more, after their cool parents take them to the home of Intel, Apple and Google).

Assuming you’ll be spending a few days in San Francisco, taking in its many famous sights, you can start the shift into a techie mindset with a few hours in the Exploratorium (Pier 15, +1 415

T

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Top, a visitor plays with sound waves at the Exploratorium.

Above, our writer Karlin Lillington, and right, a vintage coinoperated game at the Musée Mécanique.

528 52 4420; exploratorium.edu), the th unique, hands-on science, art ar and technology museum that th has entranced adults and children for more than 40 ch years.

Also along the wharf at ye Pier Pi 45 is the unusual Musée Mécanique (+1 415 346 2000; Mé museemecanique.org), a chance to see some very old technology in its collection of mechanically operated musical instruments and antique arcade machines – the greatgrannies of PlayStation and Xbox.

Before you leave the city, meander through the area near the bottom end of Market Street where Twitter

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Stanford spins out more start-ups than any other university in the world (1355 Market Street, Suite 900) now has its headquarters. You can’t pay a visit inside, but this formerly seedy, “mid Market” area is now home to about 20 smaller tech companies attracted by Twitter and special tax breaks, giving the area an energetic and youthful feel as employees spill over into local coffee houses and restaurants by day.

Now, get ready for the trip south, and the journey to tech central. You’ll need a rental car to get around – the Valley epitomises typical California sprawl and public transport is mediocre. It takes about 40 minutes to drive from San Francisco to Palo Alto, Mountain View or Cupertino, placing you in Valley heartland. Take the scenic Junipero Serra Freeway (Highway 280) route, winding along oak and redwood-covered coast hills. A sign claims it as “the world’s most beautiful freeway”.

Palo Alto is an excellent tour starting point. A once sleepy town whose main employer was nearby Stanford University, Palo Alto is now an exclusive address for

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technology companies who love its laid-back charm, pretty old houses and coolness factor. Wander along University Avenue and the streets on either side, a warren of restaurants, little shops, coffee houses full of coders (working in an office tends to be optional here) and young technology companies. The late Steve Jobs’s own local Apple Store is here.

Grab a takeaway coffee and sip it in Lytton Plaza, where you can see the big, egg-like Digital DNA sculpture, meant to mark the city as the birthplace of Silicon Valley.

The claim comes in part from the fact that Bill Hewlett and David Packard created their now iconic company in a garage a few blocks away at 367 Addison Avenue (thus establishing the Valley template of the “garage start-up”). Now owned

by HP, the building isn’t open to visitors but you can snap pictures from the sidewalk.

The pretty Stanford University campus is a five-minute drive away (there’s also a frequent shuttle bus).

Stanford engineering professor

Marvel arch – the hallowed halls of Stanford University. Clockwise from top left, samples of Intel’s innovations through the years; looking out to Alcatraz from the piers, as the infamous fog rolls in; the city’s tallest building, the Transamerica Pyramid, dominates the San Francisco skyline; Lytton Plaza’s Digital DNA sculpture in Palo Alto; ‘Googlebikes’ help employees get around Googleplex; Aurora – an interactive willow tree designed by Bay Area artist Charles Gadeken, thanks to a Kickstarter campaign – marks the spot of Palo Alto Town Hall; the Canadian baker, chef and designer, Annabelle Choi; trams and public bikes serve Twitter HQ; Danny Castillo, a graphic designer, who works in the tech valley.

Stay at …

SPLURGE Join the Valley bigwigs and visiting venture capitalists staying in the posh Zen ambience of the Rosewood Sand Hill.

Wooden outdoor walkways lead to the rooms in buildings gathered around the outdoor pool.

At the buzzing bar, have a drink out on the deck overlooking the Stanford hills and watch the redtail hawks circling overhead. Double rooms from $400. (2825 Sand Hill Road, Menlo Park, +1 650 561 1500; rosewoodhotels.com) MID-RANGE Apple fans might fancy sleeping close to the company headquarters in Cupertino, where the well-liked Kimpton boutique chain has a new hotel, the Cypress.

They promise “no firewalls between work and lifestyle”. Double rooms from $175. (10050 South De Anza Boulevard, Cupertino, +1 408 253 8900; thecypresshotel.com) BUDGET In the Valley the term “budget” is usually relative, but the Hotel Avante, a modestly-priced boutique hotel, is nicely located close to all the major tech sites in the central area. Double rooms from around $100.

(860 East El Camino Real, Mountain View, +1 650 940 1000; jdvhotels.com) SEPTEMBER 2014

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Eat at ...

SPLURGE People in the San Francisco Bay Area are famously fanatical about food, but there are surprisingly few Michelin-starred restaurants in the Valley. Madera, the California-ambience restaurant in the upmarket Rosewood Sand Hill hotel, is one of them. If the beignets are on the dessert menu, get them. As to be expected, a superb wine list. (2825 Sand Hill Road, Menlo Park, +1 650 561 1540; maderasandhill.com) MID-RANGE San Jose hosts the largest Vietnamese population in any city outside Vietnam (you’ll see dual-language signs everywhere).

Vung Tau is lauded as one of, if not the best, Vietnamese eatery in the Valley. Famous for their Ba Nam Sa Dec (noodles with soup on the side), and a good place for dinner after an afternoon at The Tech Museum. (535 East Santa Clara Street, San Jose, +1 408 288 9055; vungtaurestaurant.com) BUDGET A favourite local diner with eclectic decor, Buck’s is where the venture capitalists and Valley types go to thrash out deals and think up new companies.

Always bustling, popular for big breakfasts and weekend brunch, it’s in the pleasant surroundings of the posh horsey “village” of Woodside. (3062 Woodside Road, +1 650 851 8010; buckswoodside.com)

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Play time – Googleplex’s Android Garden.

Above, stepping out with Youssef Sarhan, an app developer and designer that works between San Francisco and Dublin.

Frederick Terman (who taught Hewlett and Packard) is credited as the Father of Silicon Valley because, from the 1930s onwards, he encouraged his students to stay in the area and set up their own companies. Stanford now spins out more start-ups than any university in the world and companies launched by past students include Yahoo! and Google. Look for the many buildings named after famous tech-alumni donors. Be sure to see the stunning Memorial Church with its old California architecture. There’s also an excellent art museum with a priceless Rodin sculpture garden.

Not too far away by car – and a quick photo opportunity – is Facebook headquarters at 1601 Willow Road, Menlo Park. As with most Valley companies, you cannot go in, but at the entry is a giant Facebook thumb sign, great for a selfie for your Facebook page. Or go slightly north of the campus, and drive up Sand Hill Road.

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venture capital firms are based which pump billions every year into area companies. The first were in the office complex at 3000 Sand Hill, next to Highway 280.

Trace the history of silicon itself by heading for 391 San Antonio Road, Mountain View – now a disused fruit market, but park and look for the plaque memorialising Shockley Semiconductor on the sidewalk.

Controversial Stanford technologist William Shockley set up this seminal company, which never quite got as far as launching a successful silicon chip.

But eight Shockley employees left the company in 1957 to form Fairchild Semiconductor, which did. You can zip over and see the modest original Fairchild building and marker plaque at 844 East Charleston Road, Mountain View.

The so-called Traitorous Eight included Robert Noyce and Gordon

Suspense thriller – the iconic Golden Gate at sunset.

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Moore, who left Fairchild to form the company that really put the silicon in Silicon Valley: Intel. The company has a fantastic museum – great for grown-ups and kids – in Santa Clara (2200 Mission College Boulevard, +1 408 765 5050; intel.com/museum).

Learn all about the history of the company and how chips are made, plus there’s a store attached for fun Intel paraphernalia.

Not too far away is the gigantic Googleplex. You can’t wander inside but you can see Google’s quirky Android Garden (Building 44, 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View), full of wacky sculptures for each version of the Android mobile operating system (yes, really). You’re very welcome to take pictures amongst the giant cupcakes and gingerbread figures. Watch for Google employees cycling past on rainbowcoloured Google bikes.

Don’t miss ...

1

The Rosicrucian Museum Yes, it’s those Rosicrucians, beloved of WB Yeats and the Golden Dawn, and they run a fascinating and bizarre Egyptian museum in San Jose, housing the largest collection of Egyptian artefacts in North America. Generations of Bay Area schoolkids have come here for school field trips and it’s always a winner. (1660 Park Avenue, San Jose, +1 408 947 3635; egyptianmuseum.org)

2

Winchester Mystery House You’ll see billboards with a huge skull on them advertising this everywhere and it might seem hokey, but it’s a blast.

Kids and adults will enjoy the tour of this gigantic, lovely yet creepy Victorian house built by the widow of the man of Winchester gun fame. She held nightly seances with the spirits of those killed by Winchester guns, who “advised” her on what to build next in the house. Stairs that go nowhere, twisty secret passages, ghosts — what fun! (525 South Winchester

Boulevard, San Jose, +1 408 247 2101; winchestermysteryhouse.com)

3

WeirdStuff Warehouse Just what it says and a Valley tradition. Since 1986 this firm has sold surplus hardware and electronics. If you like to hack things together, or know little about technology but love wandering through hardware stores, this place will have you entranced. (384 West Caribbean Drive Sunnyvale, +1 408 743 5650; weirdstuff.com)

4

Fry’s Electronics There are several branches of Fry’s around California, all with oddly themed decor, such as the Wild West in Palo Alto, or the Mayans in San Jose. But the electronics superstore — which really does mean gigantically “super” — started in Sunnyvale, so why not head for that one?

Guaranteed to be full of ultra-geek types digging through display bins in search of electronics parts. (1077 East Arques Avenue, Sunnyvale; +1 408 617 1300; frys.com)

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For space fans, the visitor centre at NASA Ames Research Center is a short hop away just off Highway 101, at Moffett Field (take the Moffett Blvd/NASA Parkway exit, +1 650 604 6497; nasa.gov).

Learn about space missions, see a real moon rock, and explore living and working in space.

If you’re an Apple fan, head west towards Cupertino. You can drive past Jobs’s childhood home, with the garage where he and Steve Wozniak created the first Apple computer, at 2066 Crist Drive (it’s still someone’s home, so take pictures from across the road). Just a few minutes away is Apple headquarters, and the Apple Company Store (1 Infinite Loop, Cupertino). Everyone takes a picture next to the giant “1” sign.

But get your electronics at either of the two Palo Alto Apple Stores, as the company store features accessories, clothes, mugs, hats and other Apple gear.

No geek trip to the Valley is complete without a pilgrimage to its two main museums, each having a different focus. The Computer History Museum (1401 North Shoreline Boulevard, Mountain View, +1 650 810 1010; computerhistory.org), has an extraordinary collection of hardware, software, accessories and every imaginable type of techoriented paraphernalia. It also has a working version of 19th-century English genius Charles Babbage’s Difference Engine, considered the first working computer. This is truly geek heaven and the real tech aficionado will want to allow several hours to take it all in. There’s a café inside for a lunch break and a mustvisit shop with a superb selection of techie T-shirts.

Over in San Jose, visit the Tech Museum of Innovation (201 South Market Street, San Jose, +1 408 294 8324; thetech.org).

All ages will enjoy this hands-on, interactive museum. Robots, biotech, games, playzones, workshops – there’s lots to see and do.

After all that, you might want a low-tech break. Lace on your 104 |

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ILLUSTRATION BY STEVE McCARTHY

TECH TOUR | SAN FRANCISCO

walking shoes and head over to do “The Dish” (everytrail.com) – a favourite loop walk on Stanford land, named after the giant satellite dish on the site (you can never entirely escape technology in the Valley). You’ll see what California looked like before Western settlers arrived – grass meadows, ancient oak trees and wildflowers. The entrance is across from Stanford Avenue (where you can park), off Junipero Serra Boulevard. The six-kilometre route takes about 90 leisurely minutes and is moderately hilly. With great views out over the Valley to the Bay, it offers the perfect chance to survey from above and say goodbye to all the places you’ve explored on your geek tour.

A restored PDP-1 in operation at the Computer History Museum.

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ISLANDS | BEING THERE

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IDYLLIC ISLANDS

Looking for somewhere to get away from the bustle? Aoife O’Riordain picks some of the best off-shore destinations.

Hydra, Greece

Escaping to one of Greece’s more remote islands may seem like an obvious choice. But you can also find a haven of tranquility much closer to Athens. Hydra has long been a secret of well-heeled Athenians who retreat year-round to this most romantic of bolt holes.

One of the Argo-Saronic Islands, it gazes across the mesmeric blue of the Peloponnese coast and is just under two hours from Piraeus. Hydra’s pretty harbour town forms a natural amphitheatre and its jumble of village houses, cobbled streets and aristocratic stone mansions creep up the hill. Free of cars and bicycles, the only means of public transport is by walking or hitching a ride from the 500-strong herd of donkeys.

Despite this sleepy charm – Hydra has plenty of claims to fame. Writers and artists have flocked to the island, among them George Seferis, Henry Miller, Marlon Brando, and Leonard Cohen, who owned a house in the town. Fortunately, the island never quite lived up to its promise as the St Tropez of Greece and is all the better for it. Typical Greek cuisine and freshly landed fish can be found at local favourite Krifo Limani (Hydra town; +30 229 805 2585), set in a tiny, lemon tree and vine-draped courtyard.

Stay at … The Bratsera Hotel in Hydra town is a former sponge factory that was sensitively restored and turned into a 25-room hotel with exposed stone walls and spare but chic décor. Doubles from €140 per night B&B. (+30 229 805 3971; bratserahotel.com) Get there … Hellenic Seaways has regular services from Piraeus, costing from €51 return. (+30 210 419 9000; hellenicseaways.gr)

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ISLANDS | BEING THERE

Ponza, Italy For a real Roman holiday go to Ponza.

This tiny, volcanic island is one of the Pontine archipelago that float in the azure waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea off the coast of Lazio, around 75 kilometres from the Italian capital. Residents escape the city’s heat and tourist-clogged streets for summer days spent lolling in boats in quiet coves, before returning to pretty Ponza Town for the nightly passeggiata (evening stroll). It was designed in the 19th century by Antonio Winspeare, and is a pleasing curl of ice-cream-hued cubes and a promenade hugging the tiny harbour. The main attraction though is the island’s corrugated coast of secret, tiny beaches and towering cliffs like those that fringe the island’s most celebrated crescent of sand, Chiaia di Luna bay. Rent a boat and explore the tiny neighbouring island of Palmarola with its dramatic rock formations, gin-clear water and one tiny restaurant (summer only) where you have to drop anchor and wade to it.

Stay in … The Villa Laetitia is a luxurious B&B with six rooms owned by a member of one of Italy’s first families of fashion, the Fendis. Doubles from €230 per night B&B. (+39 063 226 776; villalaetitia.com) Get there … The easiest way to get to Ponza is by hydrofoil from Anzio or Formia, operated by Vetor Aliscafi.

Fares from €72 return. (+39 069 845 083; vetor.it)

Majorca, Spain As one of Spain’s quintessential holiday idylls, Majorca has many sides. There are the historic streets of the capital, Palma, anchored by its 13th-century Gothic cathedral, its countless beaches or, you can leave the coast behind and immerse yourself in the island’s rugged interior. It’s a tranquil mosaic of olive, orange and lemon groves, mountains and pretty villages such as Deià former home of poet, Robert Graves, and popular with A-listers such as Michael Douglas and Kate Moss.

Another of Majorca’s most popular escapes is quaint Sóller set in the Sierra de Tramuntana.

Get there from Palma on the historic Ferrocarril de Sóller (trendesoller. com). This narrow gauge railway started operating in 1912 and a trip on it up the mountains, through tunnels and viaducts, offers stunning views. Or, strike out to the island’s most northerly tip and the Cap de Formentor – a dizzying drive of switchbacks to the lighthouse, but with fabulous vistas out to sea.

Stay at … Hotel Espléndido is a modern-style hotel overlooking the

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Puerto de Sóller. There’s a pool, spa and beach, making it ideal for families. Doubles from €130 per night B&B. (Es Traves 5, Puerto de Sóller, +34 971 631 850; esplendidohotel.com) Get there … Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Palma.

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ISLANDS | BEING THERE

Hvar, Croatia Hvar is one of the best places to experience the laid-back lifestyle that Croatians refer to as fjaka, roughly translating as “lazy mood”.

Surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean on the Dalmatian coast of Croatia, in summer Hvar’s interior is also awash with the heady scent of lavender.

In the 13th century the island was under the reign of the Venetian Republic and its main town owes much to these Italian influences. It is set around a beautiful harbour built in the mid-16th century, flanked by the Renaissance-style cathedral of St Stephen, a fortress and a honeycomb of tiny medieval streets known as kala.

More recently, Hvar has become one of Croatia’s most sophisticated summer getaways – the buzzing beach clubs, hotels, bars and cafés bear testimony to this. If you want to escape the crowds, head inland

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to the tranquil countryside and visit the sleepy town of Stari Grad, founded by the Greeks in the fourth century BC. Book a table at Zori (+385 21 744 904; zori.hr), which is attractively set beachside on the neighbouring island of Palmizana.

Stay at … With a fabulous setting right on Hvar’s celebrated promenade, Riva has views of the Pakleni Islands – and the best sunset. Doubles from €130 per night B&B. (Hvar Yacht Harbour, Riva 27, +38 521 750 555; suncanihvar.com) Get there … Krilo (+385 21 645 476; krilo.hr) operates a catamaran service twice a week from Dubrovnik, taking three-anda-half hours and costing €170 each way.

Jadrolinija (+385 51 666 111; jadrolinija.hr) has connections from several points along the Dalmatian coast.

Sandhamn, Sweden The Skärgården holds a special place in many Swedes’ hearts. The 30,000 islands of this Swedish archipelago are scattered along the country’s eastern coast and are a popular weekend and summer retreat. It’s a national ritual to abandon your hectic city life and head for somewhere remote for carefree summer days. It’s all about getting out into the fresh air; hiking, biking, swimming in the bracing Baltic waters, kayaking and foraging for berries and mushrooms.

Sandhamn Island on the outer reaches of the archipelago is a relaxed but fashionable retreat, dotted with historic pilot cottages, fishing huts, deserted beaches and a pretty harbour – think along the lines of a Swedish Martha’s Vineyard and you won’t be disappointed.

Regulars flock to Sandhamns Värdshus (+46 857 153 051; sandhamns-vardshus.se),

which has been a feature of the island for decades; overlooking the harbour, it’s the perfect place to sample the local seafood.

Stay in … Set in a former yacht club building, Seglarhotell, or Sailors Hotel, has sweeping views over the Baltic from its seaside perch.

Double rooms from SEK2,390 B&B. (+46 857 450 400; sandhamn.com) Get there … Mermaid offers regular ferry links from Stockholm, with crossings costing from SEK290 return. (+46 812 000 4045; stromma.se)

Jersey, The Channel Islands The UK’s most southerly outpost, Jersey has an alluring intermingling of cultures, being 160 kilometres from the mainland yet only 16 kilometres from French shores.

Anyone old enough to remember the classic TV series Bergerac that saw actor John Nettles whizzing around the island in his burgundy Triumph Roadster will agree that

Jersey’s scenery is spectacular; its coastline, quiet country roads and pretty towns are all part of the appeal. Sensitive planning laws have ensured that Jersey’s landscape is delightfully unspoilt. Measuring just 14 by eight kilometres, it is easily explored over a few days – one of the highlights is its 80 or so kilometres of designated “Green Lanes”

criss-crossing the island, where walkers, cyclists and horse riders take precedence over cars with a speed limit of 25km/h. Then there is the capital St Helier, the 13th-century Mont Orgueil castle, the sweeping sands of St Ouen’s Bay and the dramatic splendour of La Corbière lighthouse. History buffs will know that the Channel Islands were the only part of the UK to be occupied by German forces in 1940 during the Second World War – get a fascinating insight at the Jersey War Tunnels, which is one of its most popular visitor attractions. Potatoes, luscious milk and cream, black butter, crab and the elusive Ormer – a rare type of sea snail found in the surrounding waters – are just a few of the gourmet finds on Jersey, so it’s no surprise the island is becoming an increasing draw for foodies.

Stay at … One of the island’s classic establishments, The Atlantic Hotel has farreaching views of St Ouen’s Bay and perches on the edge of Les Mielles Nature Reserve with its network of sand dunes known as Les Blanches Banques. Doubles from £150 B&B. (+44 1534 744 101; theatlantichotel.com) Get there … Aer Lingus flies to Jersey from Dublin and Cork.

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ISLANDS | BEING THERE

Visitors are drawn to diminutive Inishbofin for its tranquility and a sense of truly getting away from it all. Set off the Atlantic-bashed western tip of the Connemara coast, this enchanting place takes its name from the Gaelic for Island of the White Cow. Exploring Inishbofin means soaking up stunning seaside views along one of its three looped walks, or by renting bikes to pedal quiet boreens and contemplate the countryside. The island is blessed with plenty of white sand on the likes of Horseshoe Bay and Dumhach beach, whose waters take on a distinctly Caribbean hue in the sunshine.

Traditional music is another highlight – Inishbofin’s unofficial end to the summer season is the annual Set Dancing and Trad Weekend, which takes place this September 26-28 (inishbofin.com).

Stay in … There are gasp-making views at Inishbofin House Hotel and Marine Spa, where treatments include traditional baths that harness the detoxifying powers of locally-harvested seaweed and peat. Double rooms from €180 half-board. (095 45809; inishbofinhouse.com) Get there … Take a ferry from Cleggan pier, northwest of Clifden, Co Galway; two to three sailings daily. Return fare €20 (adult); €10 and less for under 18s. (095 45819; inishbofinislanddiscovery.com) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO ATHENS THRICE WEEKLY UNTIL SEPTEMBER 13; FROM DUBLIN TO ROME DAILY; FROM DUBLIN TO PALMA FOUR TIMES WEEKLY, AND FROM CORK TWICE WEEKLY; FROM DUBLIN TO DUBROVNIK FOUR TIMES WEEKLY; FROM DUBLIN TO STOCKHOLM FOUR TIMES WEEKLY; FROM DUBLIN TO JERSEY; THRICE WEEKLY, AND FROM CORK TWICE WEEKLY.

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Inishbofin, Ireland

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MAKES A GREAT GIFT

See the Aroma Sense Shower Head on RTE1 every morning between 7.30am and 8.00am on Shopping From Home See the product demonstrated live at the Senior Times Over 50’s show on Stand 51 RDS Main Hall – October 17th, 18th & 19th.

CRAFT | MASTERCLASS

Blowing bubbles

Glassblowing is a delicate art. Fran Power steps into the heat to give it a go. ’ve just created something beautiful.

Something clear, glass, perfectly round (well, almost) and about 28 centimetres in diameter. “Not bad”, says Rory Leadbetter, master glassblower at Jerpoint Glass Studios, “for a first timer.”

We’re blowing glass bubbles in the A BLOW OUT converted Dutch barn that houses Jerpoint Free glassblowing studio and workshop in Stoneyford, just demos, daily from 10am. south of Kilkenny. Rory’s own record Blow a Glass Bubble is 34 centimetres, but then he has been workshops are free and at this craft for 15 years – ever since he run year-round. Check came into the studios in Transition year. jerpointglass.com or 056 “I never really left,” he says.

772 4350 for details.

The craft was in the air when he was growing up. Keith Leadbetter, Rory’s father, trained at the famous Orrefors Glass School in Sweden and, back in Ireland, set up the Hot Above, Jerpoint glassblower Rory Glass Department at the National College of Art and Leadbetter. Below, Design. Then in 1979, he decided to go from lecturing Cara editor to creating his own pieces. “Our first order was £300 for Fran Power with wine glasses,” says Kathleen, his wife, and designer at her glass bubble, Jerpoint Studio – Jerpoint. And that was more or less that. and her final piece.

Since then Jerpoint Glass, with its distinctive colours and whorls, has earned a place on the Irish market alongside classics such as linen and Aran jumpers, becoming an update on that wedding staple, Waterford Crystal, as well as a take-home gift for tourists.

Before I take up the blowing pipe, I watch the lads fashion a jug. A little beaut – one of their best sellers – it takes less than 20 minutes from the first golden “gather” of molten glass

I

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through turns, blows, dips into the furnace, cupping and lengthening. It’s all done by eye. It’s a two-man job and the pair work together wordlessly. They make it look easy. It’s not. It takes roughly six weeks to learn to add a handle, even for an experienced blower.

Rory attaches a blob of glass to the base of the jug, which will become the pontil mark – the point where you break away the blowing iron from the glass. Jerpoint Glass use a shamrock shape, it’s like the craftsman’s signature and a sure sign the piece is handmade.

“We might decide it’s jugs today, and make 22 to 24 in a day,” says Rory. Not all jugs make it onto the shelves of the studio shop though. A crate on the floor contains broken pieces ready to be recycled back to molten glass. “Out of 45 wine glasses, I might lose 10-15 per cent. It’s impossible to keep bubbles out, for example, and the bubbles might be too large.” It’s all part of the unpredictability of the material.

And then it’s my turn. I stand in the blast of the furnace, all 1,200 degrees of it where the molten liquid is a clear burning yellow. The heat is staggering. It feels like I’ve strayed into Danny Boyle’s movie Sunshine, in which (spoiler alert) a space mission is set to fly into the sun.

“Keep it moving, keep it turning,” says Rory. “It’s all liquid; all it wants to do is change shape.”

Too late, my wannabe bubble has drooped to one side like the Leaning Tower of Pisa. We nip over to the glory hole to heat it up. “Let it get too cool and it hardens.”

A quick blast and it’s liquid again, then it’s time to blow.

“Blow out into the pipe and the pressure will blow a bubble. Pressure from the blow will find the path of least resistance,” says the maestro. “You need to strategically heat and cool different areas for size.” I take his word for it.

I have my hands full just trying to keep that blob turning.

In the end, for all the hot air, it takes surprisingly little puff to blow a glass bubble but quite a lot of strength to keep the metal rod twirling and to blow at the same time.“Try it with five kilos of molten glass at one end,” says Rory pointing to some of his experimental large bowls. Maybe next time.

Laser Eye Surgery Established 1980 Surgeon Lead, Surgeon Owned All Surgeons Resident in Ireland Global Ambassador Wavelight Technology

IMPROVING THE QUALITY OF LIFE

BY IMPROVING THE QUALITY OF VISION A LIFETIME WARRANTY ON LASER EYE SURGERY Providing solutions for distance and reading vision The Wellington Eye Clinic is situated at the Beacon Medical campus in Sandyford. We were founded in 1980 and were one of the pioneering Clinics in Europe in the field of laser eye surgery.

There is a lifetime warranty on laser eye surgery at the Wellington Eye Clinic. So if for example your vision drops below driving standard, the surgery is repeated at no charge.

The Clinic introduced laser refractive surgery to Ireland in 1990. Only the most advanced and safest laser technology is used to treat our patients. All the procedures are performed in our dedicated operating theatre within the Clinic.

The doctors offer the best solution for you, not the ‘only’ solution. A surgeon will see you from your first visit to the Clinic.

Call the Clinic to schedule an appointment to see if you are a suitable candidate.

The Wellington Eye Clinic Level 2, Suite 36, Beacon Hall, Beacon Court, Sandyford, Dublin 18 T: F: W: E:

+353-1-293 0314 +353-1-293 5978 www.wellingtoneyeclinic.com info@wellingtoneyeclinic.com

BEING THERE | DÜSSELDORF

48 hours in

Eat at ...

LOCAL Considered by many as their favourite farmers’ market in the city, Carlsplatz Markt (Carlsplatz, +49 211 174 4118; carlsplatz.net) has been around, on and off, since 1482.

You’ll find beautiful fresh produce and many local delicacies. Grab some lunch at one of the food stalls and finish it off with a delectable pastry from Törtchen Törtchen (Carlsplatz Stand A18, +49 163 670 1787; toertchentoertchen.de).

Düsseldorf

Bloggers Josh O’Neal and Alix Hopfengärtner of dddorf.tumblr.com explain why it’s easy to fall under this small German city’s spell.

VEG Whether you’re anything close to a vegan or not, you will love the food at the vegan eatery Sattgrün (Graf-AdolfPlatz 6, +49 211 876 3390; sattgruen. de). Fresh, local and diverse, this place is always a crowd pleaser. Similarly if you’re more into veggie burgers, salads and fresh juices, newcomer Schnell Veg (Bagelstrasse 130, +49 211 9118 4728; schnellveg.com), above, will definitely satisfy your craving.

QUICK While browsing the quaint boutiques in the Flingern neighbourhood, stop by AN BÁNH MÌ (Ackerstrasse 129, +49 211 4172 0985) and sit next to locals on their lunch break for a quick Vietnamese sandwich and a smoothie.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOSH O’NEAL AND ALIX HOPFENGÄRTNER

Don’t miss ...

PALACE Head down to the south of the city to see the Benrather Schloss (Benrather Schlossallee 100-106, +49 211 899 3832; schloss-benrath.de), an impressive Baroque maison de plaisance surrounded by lush gardens that might just make you feel like royalty.

MODERN Stare in awe at the buildings of superstar architects, starting with Frank Gehry’s Neuer Zollhof (Hammer Strasse 6, +49 211 308 3650) in the Media Harbour area, ending with the newly opened Kö Bogen (Königsallee 2; koebogen. info) by Daniel Libeskind. Follow by walking straight across into Hofgarten, Düsseldorf’s picturesque downtown park.

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RIVERFRONT Do what locals do best on a beautiful day and walk down to the Rhine promenade to enjoy a “Hugo” wine spritzer with a view on the river. For some culture by the waterfront, KIT - Kunst im Tunnel (Mannesmannufer 1b, +49 211 5209 9597; kunst-im-tunnel.de), a contemporary art museum in an underground tunnel, is the place to start.

Top, the Kö Bogen by Daniel Libeskind is one of the city’s newest buildings, while the Benrather Schloss, above, dates back to the 18th century.

TRENDY Dress it up and head down to Zimmer no. 01 (Schirmerstrasse 61, +49 211 5504 9962; zimmerno01. de), a classy, self-proclaimed café/ bar/restaurant that serves creative meals in a tasteful loft ambience. Pick from their extensive wine collection and dive into their candy bar on your way out. For something different, head across the street to Les Halles (Schirmerstrasse 54, +49 211 8693 7796; les-halles.de), a shabby-chic restaurant-club with a fantastic outdoor seating area.

Sleep at ...

LUXURY Situated on a small peninsula on the Rhine, the Hyatt Regency (Speditionstrasse 19, +49 211 9134 1234; dusseldorf.regency.hyatt.com) is sure to impress. In addition to all the amenities you would expect at a high-end hotel, guests can treat themselves to a stunning view of the Media Harbour and the city from the terrace, left.

COMFORT Want to feel more at home? Try Burns Apartments (Charlottenstrasse 60, +49 211 779 2910; hotel-burns.de) located in the city centre. The rooms are designed to be more like a small stylish apartment and less like a standard hotel room.

SIMPLE Just five minutes’ walk from Königsallee, Maxi Hotel Garni (Adersstrasse 65, +49 211 386 800; max-hotelgarni.de) is for travellers looking for a clean and comfortable place to re-energise. The hotel is known for its cleanliness and friendly service.

The Media Harbour, far left. Shopping gems include Vaseline, left, Trödelmarkt Aachener Platz, below left, and boutique Kauf Dich Glückich, below.

COFFEE There is no better place for a caffeine pit-stop than Woyton (Marktplatz 12, +49 211 836 8624; woyton.de), a local roaster that will brew you an amazing cup of Joe, whether it’s an aromatic pour-over or simply the perfect latte.

Often referred to as Germany’s fashion capital, Düsseldorf is known for its luxury street, Königsallee. But it most certainly is not its only shopping gem …

THRIFT Join the locals every Saturday at Trödelmarkt Aachener Platz (Ulenbergstrasse 10, +49 211 154 548; troedelmarkt-aachenerplatz.de), a large indoor and outdoor flea market where you can find everything from fresh produce to antique furniture. esh pr QUIRKY If you’re looking for a QUIR conve conversation-starting piece for your home or just an original souvenir, pop into Vaseline (Wallstrasse 37, +49 211 1576 6732) in the Altstadt area, Düsseldorf’s craziest conc concept store.

Drink at ...

BEER Any travel guide will tell you to drink up Altbier, the local brew, at one of the historic breweries such as Zum Uerige (Bergerstrasse 1, +49 211 866 990; uerige.de), but also try out younger brewer Kürzer (Kurze Strasse 18-20, +49 211 322 696; brauerei-kuerzer.de) for their fresher take on the recipe.

Shop at …

ART There are so many bars to choose from in the Altstadt area, it’s hard to pinpoint one. For some avant-garde electronic music, you can’t go wrong at Salon des Amateurs (Grabbeplatz 4, +49 211 171 2830; salondesamateurs.de), an arty club attached to the Kunsthalle Museum (Grabbeplatz 4, +49 211 899 6243; kunsthalleduesseldorf.de).

CASUAL Find your new everyday favourites at Kauf Dich Glücklich (Carlsplatz 4, +49 211 8693 0291; kaufdichgluecklich-shop.de), a stylish boutique where everything you buy adds Scandinavian flair to your outfit.

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO DÜSSELDORF TWICE DAILY.

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Even afte Ev after ele eleven years in Ro Rome, I go by the PANTHEON just to gawk in awe. I first saw it in the 1970s on a school trip from Ireland, the rain was pouring down in a column of water through the oculus in the roof.

It’s magnificent, and that it still stands and is still visited by thousands of people daily after two millennia is simply astonishing. I love it.

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

Rome

Secret espresso and perfectly crafted jewellery … gallery owner Lorcan O’Neill shares some gems in his adopted city.

On Sunday morning, go to the sprawling STREET MARKET in Trastevere around ar the Porta Portese, an ancient city cit gate built in 1644. You’ll find everything ev here: vintage linens, 1950s furniture, fu memorabilia, plants, jeans, kitchen ki equipment, and things you never ne knew would catch your eye. Dress modestly, mode bring some cash and bargain.

(Via (V Portuense and Via Ippolito Nievo; Sundays Su only 6.30am-2pm)

FAUSTO QUINTAVALLE

After a visit to the Pa Pantheon, get a coffee around the back. SANT’EUSTACHIO USTA TACHIO IL CAFFÈ has – hands down – the best st coffee coffe in Rome (if not the world, as the New York rk Tim Times once stated). The process of making the espresso presso so is a secret; the machines that make it face away from the customer. The coffee is unusually frothy and comes already sugared, unless you specifically ask for it “amaro”.

And their chocolate-covered coffee beans might also be the best souvenirs in Rome. (Piazza di Sant’Eustacchio 82, +39 06 6880 2048; santeustachioilcaffe.it)

I have breakfast almost every day at PANELLA one of the city’s best bread ead and pastry shops. With service at outdoor tables on the tree-lined Via Merulana, the bakery makes a remarkable range of olive, nut, and seed breads, biscuits, cakes, strudels and seasonal specialities, all with the highest quality ingredients. Coffee and fresh juices are also delicious – well worth the queue. (Via Merulana 54, +39 06 487 2651; panellaroma.com)

Rome’s newest museum MAXXI displays contemporary art in an extravagant, space-age building, right, by Zaha Hadid (Via Guido Reni 4A, +39 06 3996 7350; fondazionemaxxi.it). Also worth a peek is the nearby Renzo Piano-designed Auditorium (with a worldclass concert programme throughout the year), and a stadium designed for the 1960 Olympics.

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One of the most beautiful and rewarding walks is up GIANICOLO HILL where a cannon is still fired at midday to commemorate Garibaldi’s victory here in the war that united Italy in the 19th century. There is a breathtaking view over the city from the Acqua Paola, the great fountain – along with the Trevi – built to celebrate the aquaducts that bring fresh water to the city. Don’t miss: the Church of San Pietro in Montorio, where 17th-century Irish chieftains The O’Neill and The O’Donnell are buried.

EMANUELE BASTONI

The jewellery designs of LUCIA ODESCALCHI are housed in an exquisite, frescoed room, below, in one of the city’s grandest palazzos. With an almost engineered industrial look, often in darkened gold, platinum, silver, the pieces – which include cuff-links and bracelets for men – are discreet and perfectly made.

(Palazzo Odescalchi, Piazza Santi Apostoli 81, +39 06 6992 5506; luciaodescalchi.com)

On Via del Corso near Piazza Venezia, the GALLERIA DORIA PAMPHILJ is an enchanting palace which contains work by Caravaggio, right, Velázquez, Bernini, Carracci and Lotto.

Keep an eye out for: the palazzo’s peacocks; the bust of Donna Olimpia Pamphilj, the matriarch who built the family fortune; Innocent X, the Velázquez portrait that inspired Francis Bacon’s famous “Pope” series.

(Via del Corso 305, +39 06 679 7323; doriapamphiljt.it)

ALBERTO BLASETTI

I have to mention our ow own GALLERIA LORCAN O’NEILL as we are right in the heart of Rome near Campo dei Fiori, and even Romans ar are amazed by our private co courtyard and giant Baroque fo fountain. We are very lucky tha that the 94-year-old Contessa Pa Passolini dall’Onda is happy to rent us her glorious former st stables – it makes a perfect spac space for contemporary art.

(V (Vicolo dei Catinari 3, +39 06 68 6889 2980; lorcanoneill.com)

More about Lorcan

Lorcan O’Neill was born in Ballinrobe, Co Mayo. At 16, he went as one of four Irish scholars to Pearson College on Vancouver Island in Canada before heading to Harvard University, Massachusetts, for four years. O’Neill – brother of Rory, aka Panti – worked in the USA for a few years before moving in the late 1980s to London to work at the Anthony d’Offay Gallery. In 2003 he moved to Rome, where he opened his eponymous gallery in Trastevere, not far from the Vatican, which has since moved to a new location in the heart of Rome, by the Campo dei Fiori.

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The fourth-generation family restaurant AL POMPIERE (“the fireman”) is where I like to bring artists and clients for lunch. It is in the “Ghetto” (the old Jewish quarter) and has airy, frescoed rooms with views of Piazza Cenci. It’s famous for Jewish-style artichokes, Roman pastas and fish. The staff are warm and indulging, and it is always difficult to leave. (Via di Santa Maria dè Calderari 38, +39 06 686 8377; alpompiereroma.com)

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO ROME DAILY.

2014

WEDDING AWARDS WINNER

BEING THERE | GLASGOW

3 stylish stays ...

SPOTLIGHT GLASGOW Compiled by Ellen Lunney

CAROL ANN PEACOCK

TOP TABLES Glasgow’s hipsters flock to the newly fashionable Finnieston neighborhood, and with good reason – the riverside district boasts lots of excellent eating options. One of the first on the scene was Crabshakk, left, (1114 Argyle Street, +44 141 334 6127; crabshakk.com), which serves simple but classy seafood. Nearby is Old Salty’s Traditional Café (1126 Argyle Street, +44 141 357 5677) which offers a fresh take on traditional Scottish flavours – think local scallops with curry butter and proper breakfasts.

Closer to the traditional city core is Glasgow institution The Ubiquitous Chip (12 Ashton Lane, +44 141 334 5007; ubiquitouschip.co.uk). Over 40 years since it opened, visitors still delight in its sweet fairy lights and top-quality Scottish sourcing.

BUDGET Citizen M “Open the pod bay doors, HAL,” or rather open the bedroom curtains, with the supplied tablet computer.

Marvel at the Japanese-style minimalism, try the bonkers ‘party’ setting on the mood control and flop down on the super comfortable bed. It’s slap-bang in the city centre, and the helpful staff are definitely human and incredibly friendly too. Double rooms from £69. citizenm.com

3 must-dos ...

CENTRAL Grasshoppers This charming hotel is a little tricky to find, but you’ll be glad you made the effort. It’s six floors up in an office block right next to the Central Rail Station. Apart from its central location and interesting rooftop views, guests rave about the free cupcakes and quirky, calming interiors: expect Caledonian oak floors, Egyptian cotton sheets and pleasing, hand-made touches. B&B from £105. grasshoppersglasgow.com

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WONDER AT …

Kelvingrove Gallery & Museum Children will love the Spitfire LA198 and Sir Roger the Asian elephant at the Museum, while adults will enjoy the 150 artworks on display in the gallery.

Enjoy an evening of classical music favourites at the museum from September 5-6 with the Royal Scottish National Orchestra and Irish soprano Ailish Tynan. glasgowlife.org.uk

THINK DESIGN AT …

The Willow Rooms Charles Renee Mackintosh had a huge influence on Glasgow’s architecture.

Take a walking tour to see some of his work with the Glasgow School of Art (gsa.ac.uk), above, or make a pit stop at The Willow Rooms (217 Sauchiehall Street, willowtearooms. co.uk), a tea room designed entirely by the artist in 1904 – even the teaspoons.

BREW YOUR OWN AT …

Drygate Craft Brewery Join Glasgow’s trendy set at the city’s first urban craft brewery, with its team of passionate experts, 24-tap beer hall and top-of-therange Italian brewing kit.

If you want to learn before you leap, join the brewing team at their monthly “Vintage Beer Club” evening (held this month on September 18). drygate.com

SUBURBS Hotel du Vin The 49 bedrooms of this hotel occupy five townhouses and all boast original Scottish artwork and roll-top baths. Suites feature extras, such as four-poster beds and waterfall showers. Food is also a highlight – try afternoon tea or a lavish Sunday Brunch. The hotel’s reputation for wine is, unsurprisingly, a major draw. B&B from £175. hotelduvin.com

GREAT CARE FROM THE GROUND UP At Aer Lingus, we take great care in everything we do - from baggage handling, to catering, to customer care. The people you see, and the people you don’t, are all dedicated to making you feel welcome, every step of your journey. Great care on every level - it’s one of the many ways Aer Lingus takes care of you.

Great Care. Great Fare.

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

e of s i R : 300 mpire An EPAGE 133 S EE

Flying with Aer Lingus

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

126 Welcome aboard 127 Your comfort and safety 130 Aer Lingus News 140 Flight Connections 144 Our Route Networks 148 Connecting to Wi-Fi

Inflight Entertainment 132 Movies to North America 133 Movies from North America 134 Our Classic Movie Selection 136 Television On Demand 138 Radio On Demand 139 Music

Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

h words Useful Iris ses and phra

Why not try speaking a few words e of the native languag while you are visiting Ireland!

me Fáilte Welco ello Dia dhuit H ill Goodbye Slán go fó is... m My name o d m in a ...is you? tú? How are Conas atá ood ma ith I’m g Tá mé go eers Sláinte! Ch u gat Thank yo a h it a m h Go ra ib me scéal Excuse h it le o m h Gab

Cara Friend

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Aberdeen Glasgow

Edinburgh

Newcastle

Belfast Knock Shannon Kerry

Cork

Dublin

Blackpool

Isle of Man

Manchester

Birmingham Cardiff

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Amsterdam

London (Southend) London Brussels (Gatwick)

Bournemouth Jersey

Paris Rennes

What cities do Aer Lingus fly to and connect to?

See page 144 for full route maps

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Take a photo and post it to our facebook page.

Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.

Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information.

View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

A SS IS TA N CE

ETA IL S CO N TA CT D

.com nce@aerlingus specialassista 365 011 Ireland (0818) on–Fri 09:00–17:00 M t & Sun 10:00–16:00 Sa nk Holidays 10:00–16:00 Ba 20 21 UK (0871) 718 1 886 8333 Europe +353 2 4222 USA (516) 62

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

ARE YOU READY FOR TAKE-OFF AND LANDING? 

Is your mobile phone and/or other portable electronic device in 'flight mode'?



Is your seatback fully upright?



Is your armrest down?



Is your tabletop stowed?



Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important.

Please note that certain devices may not be used.

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting.

Devices permitted at any time

Devices permitted in flight only*

Devices prohibited at all times

Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff.

Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).**

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off.

*Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach.

You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

ON

Mode Airplane

On A330 aircraft, to avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, devices must be switched off flight mode once advised that it is safe to do so by crew.

**Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

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Your comfort and safety

KEEP MOVING

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:



Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.



Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another passenger (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.



Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a passenger on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. Similarly, behaviour or language towards other passengers or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

Airbus 330-

200

For your Safety

Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do

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Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and to reduce jet lag.

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems.

If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

ON Airplane Mode

DRINK UP

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

Mode

Mode

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

EYE CARE If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

TIME ZONES Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone more quickly.

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ADVERTORIAL

Know the cost of roaming and keeping in touch while on holiday Most people use their mobile phones to keep in touch when on holiday.

The use of social media, in addition to making calls, sending texts and emails are an important way of doing so. While most of us are aware that using your mobile abroad can be more expensive than at home, this should not stop us from maintaining contact with family and friends.

By being aware of the cost of roaming and following these practical tips, you can manage your roaming costs while on holiday.

Using your mobile inside the European Union The cost of roaming in the EU, known as the “Eurotariff”, is as follows: Type: Cost (including VAT): Calls Made: €0.23 Calls Received: €0.06 Sending a Text: €0.07 Receiving a Text: €0.00 Data Usage (Per MB): €0.25 Some mobile operators provide alternative roaming plans when roaming in the EU. If you have chosen an alternative package the “Eurotariff” rates will not apply.

Roaming Costs Message When you arrive at your EU destination, you should receive a text giving details of the roaming costs and other useful information.

Data Roaming Usage Alerts You should also receive an alert before and at the point when your data bill amounts to €61.50 including VAT.

Using your mobile outside the European Union The costs of using your mobile outside the EU can be very expensive, especially when using data services. If you have not yet departed for your destination, check with your operator whether an alternative roaming bundle is available to you in that country.

Consumers travelling outside the EU should also receive the data usage alert at €61.50. Where this is not possible, the operator should send a text to advise they cannot apply the alert in that country.

You might want to consider purchasing a local SIM to avail of local rates, if your handset is unlocked.

Top Tips for mobile roaming • Find a Wi-Fi zone and switch-on Wi-Fi connections to use data services; • Remember that smartphone apps use data in the background even when not in use; • You might want to avoid using your phone to download large files of data i.e. streaming music or watching films; • Consider turning-off the cellular data roaming function on your handset; • Safeguard your handset with a PIN/password. Make a note of the IMEI; • If your phone is stolen, alert your operator immediately.

Delays may result in you being responsible for any ensuing bill; • Note the freephone European emergency number 112.

About ComReg We are responsible for regulating the Irish electronic communications and postal sectors. If you are seeking advice or have a complaint that has not been adequately addressed by your operator, you can contact our Consumer Line. We will help by explaining the operator’s obligations and give you a realistic idea of the likely outcome of your complaint. Please see www.askcomreg.ie, email consumerline@comreg.ie or call 01 8049668 or 1890 229 668.

You should also visit our Call Costs comparison website and online roaming calculator tool for an overview of your EU roaming costs at www.callcosts. ie/mobile_phones/roaming_ calculator.

Legal Disclaimer This advertisement is for information purposes only and not an interpretation of the law. The Commission accepts no responsibility for financial loss or other harm arising as a result of reliance placed on this advertisement.

Aer Lingus News Announcing the new Aer Lingus Business Class Experience 2015 We’re excited to bring you details of the brand new Aer Lingus Business Class which will launch early next year. We are introducing; a brand new Business Class Service; a brand new Business Class Cabin; all delivered within a best of modern Ireland service culture.

As Ireland’s airline, we love to promote the amazing talent that our country has to offer. This can be seen in lots of ways throughout our new cabin – our Voya cosmetic samples, the Botany Weaving fabric of our new seats from Thompson Aero Seating in Portadown and, of course, our vibrant and exciting Irish foods.

Our entertainment system also has an Irish flavour, bringing the best of Ireland’s current and upcoming talent to the big screen and to our music collection. You’ll experience the best of modern Ireland from the moment you step on board.

The first of our seven Airbus 330 to feature the new Business Class Cabin will fly in January 2015. All aircraft will be completed by end of March 2015, in time for the Summer Season. For more information visit aerlingus.com.

Our move to T2, London Heathrow Aer Lingus successfully launched its operations in Terminal 2 on 9th July. All Aer Lingus flights to and from London Heathrow operate from Terminal 2 at Heathrow. Aer Lingus customers can now enjoy a seamless and superior travel experience at T2 Heathrow and those travelling between T2 Dublin airport and T2 London Heathrow can now enjoy the best terminal to terminal experience in Europe.

Aer Lingus Chief Revenue Officer Mike Rutter added, ‘The new terminal will ensure the best possible experience when travelling with us in and out of Heathrow. We are the third largest airline operator at Heathrow and it is our number one destination airport.

The move will be great news for our Heathrow customers who will enjoy increased transfer opportunities, quicker transfer times, shorter walking distances, and improved retail and restaurant opportunities. We’re really looking forward to welcoming our customers to the brand new, state of the art Terminal 2.’

Patrick’s Story Some weeks ago our social media team put a shout out to our Facebook community for help to locate a person who was born in 1975 on board an Aer Lingus aircraft, travelling from Mozambique to Lisbon. Through a lot of sharing, our Facebook post reached almost 90,000 people! Now living in Northern Portugal, Patrick Loureiro was successfully found, with much help, and he visited Dublin in July with his wife Laura and his daughter Sara.

Patrick was named after the aircraft the ‘St. Patrick’ on which he was born.

It was the family’s first visit to Ireland, and the first time since June 1975 that Patrick met many of the people that crewed the flight on which he became the first and only baby to have been born on an Aer Lingus flight. It was a very happy occasion (and an emotional one for some!) and some incredible stories of the eventful flight to Mozambique were shared. We’ve heard that Patrick’s already planning his next trip back with his parents to spend some more time with the crew of his ‘famous flight’.

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Pictured at Dublin airport on the occasion of the reunion with Patrick Loureiro were former Aer Lingus cabin crew members and two pilots who operated the flight on 11th June 1975 on which Patrick was born including former cabin crew member and nurse Jackie Ryan, who delivered Patrick. Visit our blog for further information blog.aerlingus.com.

Arrive before you even depart!

When you fly with us to the States, you clear Customs and Border Protection in Ireland, so you’re stateside before you’ve even left! It makes your journey so much easier and saves you a whole lot of time – when you land in the US, all you have to do is pick up your bag and get on with your day. For more information visit aerlingus.com.

Aer Lingus Firsts Inaugural flights and events in September through the decades.

1936 Aer Lingus started a service to London on 14th September. The route was operated by a 10-seater De Havilland DH86A Express Airliner named ‘Eire’. The inaugural flight departed Baldonnel on the 14th September, flown by Captain OE Armstrong. Passengers were comprised of officials and municipal passengers, among them being the Lord Mayor of Dublin Alderman Alfred Byrne TD. It landed in Whitchurch Aerodrome, 1 hour 40 minutes after take-off.

1937 Aer Lingus established a presence in Dublin city centre at 39 Upper O’Connell Street which included a public booking office as well as office accommodations. It was also arranged that the bus service to Baldonnel would henceforth use the Aer Lingus office as the terminus.

1947 Aer Lingus’ transatlantic sister company, Aerlinte Eireann, took delivery of the first three of five Lockheed L749 Constellations in September 1947.

1952 In September 1952 the first horse to be transported by Aer Lingus was carried from the UK to Dublin on a Bristol Wayfarer aircraft. The horse was ‘Judicate’, which went on to win the Irish St. Leger race at the Curragh, County Kildare.

1961 In September 1961 the Aer Lingus General Manager Mr JF Dempsey was elected the 1962 President of the International Air Transport Association (IATA), a tremendous honour for the airline and an indication of its high standing in the ranks of the world’s airlines. Aer Lingus had been one of the first airlines to join IATA when it was founded in 1945.

St. Patrick, Boeing 747 EI-ASI

1986

Pope John Paul II visi ting Ireland, 29th September, 197 9

1977 In September 1977, Aer Lingus recruited a second group of trainee pilots for ab initio training at CSE Aviation at Oxford who would join the initial group of 13 cadets who were well into their course in Oxford at that stage.

Included in the 1977 intake was Aer Lingus’ first female pilot, Grainne Cronin, daughter of an Aer Lingus Captain, Felim Cronin.

1979 Aer Lingus was selected to bring Pope John Paul II from Rome to Dublin on 29th September, and later from Shannon to Boston on completion of his visit to Ireland. Boeing 747 EI-ASI was the aircraft selected for this prestigious event, and the upper deck was specially reconfigured for the Papal operation, to include a rest area for the pontiff. Given the nature of the operation, the aircraft was renamed ‘St. Patrick’. The aircraft was also adorned with the Papal coat of arms beside the saint’s name.

The aircraft departed Rome on the 29th September under the command of Captain Tommy McKeown with 165 passengers on board. The aircraft used the special call-sign ‘Aer Lingus One’. After entering Irish airspace, the Boeing 747 rendezvoused with four Irish Air Corps Fouga Magisters. The formation did a fly-by along the River Liffey and over the Phoenix Park, site of the Papal Mass, prior to landing at Dublin Airport.

Sunday, 14th September saw the 50th anniversary of the start of Aer Lingus services on the Dublin-Liverpool route, and on that day Aer Lingus operated a flight carrying a special party to attend a league match between Liverpool and Charlton Athletic at Anfield. The DH84 Dragon EI-ABI ‘Iolar’ overflew the Anfield Stadium just before the start of the match in celebration of the day 50 years earlier when the original ‘Iolar’ had flown the inaugural service to Liverpool.

Aer Lingus had a special relationship with Liverpool Football Club who regarded it as their lucky airline.

2003 On 17th September 2003, Aer Lingus announced that it had selected the Airbus A320 as the type on which its short haul fleet was to be standardised, with an all-Airbus narrowbody fleet to be in operation by the end of 2005.

2006 The Aer Lingus flotation took place on 27th September 2006, priced at €2.20 a share, valuing the company at €1.1 billion, and shares started conditional dealings immediately.

2011 Aer Lingus decided to reintroduce an aircraft mechanic apprenticeship scheme in partnership with FAS, the National Training and Employment Authority, offering an initial 20 places commencing in September 2011. It marked what was intended to be an annual intake of new apprentices. Aer Lingus had originally introduced an apprenticeship scheme for aircraft mechanics in January 1962.

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Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action

Kids Rio 2 105 mins.

G

It’s a jungle out there for Blu, Jewel and their three kids after they’re hurtled from Rio de Janeiro to the wilds of the Amazon. As Blu tries to fit in, he goes beak-to-beak with the vengeful Nigel, and meets his father-in-law. Featuring the voices of Jesse Eisenberg, Anne Hathaway and Jemaine Clement.

Comedy

Need For Speed

PG13

Noah

PG13

138 mins.

An epic story of courage, sacrifice and hope. Stars Russell Crowe, Jennifer Connelly, Anthony Hopkins.

132 mins.

A street racer who was framed seeks out revenge. Stars Aaron Paul, Dominic Cooper, Imogen Poots.

Fading Gigolo

R

92 mins.

Two friends find themselves caught between love and money. Stars John Turturro, Woody Allen, Sharon Stone.

Drama

Crime

Rob The Mob 86 mins.

A mob robbing couple stumble upon the score of a lifetime.

Stars Michael Pitt, Nina Arianda, Andy Garcia.

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R

The Art Of The Steal 92 mins.

A reformed art thief returns to the game for one last heist. Stars Johnny Depp, Rebecca Hall, Morgan Freeman.

SEPTEMBER 2014

R

Mr. Pip

The Angriest Man In Brooklyn

R

92 mins.

A man is mistakenly told that he has 90 minutes to live. Stars Robin Williams, Mila Kunis, Peter Dinklage.

Romance

PG13

153 mins.

A young girl becomes transfixed by Charles Dickens. Stars Hugh Laurie, Kerry Fox, Eka Darville.

The Face of Love

The Other Woman

R

92 mins.

A widow falls for a guy who resembles her late husband. Stars Robin Williams, Ed Harris, Annette Bening.

Tom and Jerry & The Wizard of Oz 60 mins.

Tom and Jerry get whisked away to The land of Oz. Stars Kath Soucie, Joe Alaskey, Michael Gough.

R

97 mins.

Leo falls for a woman just as she is about to get married. Stars Ryan Kwanten, Sara Canning, Ryan McPartlin.

109 mins.

Carly meets the wife her boyfriend has been betraying. Stars Cameron Diaz, Leslie Mann, Kate Upton.

Kids

PG13

The Right Kind Of Wrong

G

Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action 300: Rise Of An Empire 103 mins.

Comedy

PG13

140 mins.

Steve struggles to embrace his role in the modern world. Stars Chris Evans, Samuel L. Jackson, Scarlett Johansson.

Family

Cowgirls PG ’N Angels 2: Dakota's Summer 91 mins.

Dakota Rose learns to navigate life and the rodeo circuit. Stars Haley Ramm, Bryan Dechart, Glynn Turman.

Sabotage

R

109 mins.

Members of an DEA task force rob a drug cartel safe house. Stars Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sam Worthington, Terrence Howard.

Romance

Brightest Star

The Amazing Spider-Man 2

PG13

105 mins.

Peter Parker faces a slew of super villains. Stars Andrew Garfield, Emma Stone, Jamie Foxx.

Sci-Fi

PG13

80 mins.

A college graduate sets out to win back his dream girl. Stars Chris Lowell, Rose McIver, Jessica Szohr.

Divergent

R

Greek general Themistokles leads the charge against invading Persian forces led by mortal-turned-god Xerxes and Artemisia, vengeful commander of the Persian navy. Directed by Noam Murro and starring Sullivan Stapleton, Eva Green, Lena Headey, Hans Matheson and Rodrigo Santoro.

Action

Captain America: The Winter Soldier

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

Better Living Through Chemistry

R

91 mins.

A strait-laced pharmacist's life spirals out of control. Stars Sam Rockwell, Olivia Wilde, Michelle Monaghan.

Sport

PG13

149 mins.

Tris must find out what makes the Divergents dangerous. Stars Tobey Maguire, Leonardo DiCaprio.

Draft Day

Drama

Crime

Veronica Mars

PG13

107 mins.

Veronica Mars returns to her detective ways in her hometown. Stars Shiloh Fernandez, Amber Heard.

Transcendence

PG13

119 mins.

A scientist has his consciousness uploaded to a computer. Stars Johnny Depp, Rebecca Hall, Morgan Freeman.

Kids

R

109 mins.

An NFL manager is faced with a tough decision.

Stars Kevin Costner, Chadwick Boseman, Jennifer Garner.

Scooby-Doo! WrestleMania Mystery

PG

72 mins.

Shaggy and the gang help WWE stars to solve a mystery. Stars Frank Welker, Mindy Cohn, Grey DeLisle.

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Our Classic Movie Selection We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America. Timeless favourites such as MASH and Empire of the Sun are available as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

Classics The Dark Knight Rises 165 mins.

PG13

Christian Bale reprises the lead role of Bruce Wayne/Batman in Christophers Nolan's The Dark Knight Rises. Eight years after the Joker's reign of anarchy, the Dark Knight must return to defend Gotham City against the enigmatic jewel thief Catwoman and the ruthless mercenary Bane as the city teeters on the brink of complete annihilation.

Classics

Analyze That

R

96 mins.

Stars Robert De Niro, Billy Crystal.

Batman Begins

PG13

140 mins.

Stars Christian Bale, Michael Caine.

Brubaker

132 mins.

Stars Robert Redford, Yaphet Kotto.

R

Cleopatra

PG

243 mins.

Stars Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton.

Crazy Heart

R

118 mins.

Stars Jeff Bridges.

Dangerous Liaisons

R

120 mins.

Stars Glenn Close, John Malkovich.

Doctor Zhivago

PG

197 mins.

Stars Omar Sharif, Julie Christie.

Empire Of The Sun

PG

The Dark Knight

PG13

151 mins.

Stars Christian Bale.

Farewell to Arms

PG

153 mins.

Rock Hudson, Jennifer Jones.

Full Metal Jacket

R

The Green Mile

R

116 mins.

Stars Matthew Modine.

Classics

Great R Expectations

128 mins.

Ethan Hawke, Gwyneth Paltrow.

How To Steal A Million

PG

129 mins.

Stars Audrey Hepburn.

In America

R

105 mins.

Stars Paddy Considine, Samantha Morton.

MASH

116 mins.

Stars Donald Sutherland, Elliott Gould.

R

Rio

121 mins.

Stars Jesse Eisenberg, Anne Hathaway.

G

The Beach

R

120 mins.

Stars Leonardo DiCaprio.

152 mins.

Stars Christian Bale, Heath Ledger.

The Departed

R

151 mins.

Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Matt Damon.

Irish Shorts and Features

There's G No Business Like Show Business

117 mins. Stars 86 mins.

Stars Will Smith. Ethel Merman.

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R

101 mins.

Stars Steve Carell.

Classics

The PG Legend Of Bagger Vance

Little Miss Sunshine

SEPTEMBER 2014

Training Day

R

122 mins.

Stars Denzel Washington, Ethan Hawke.

Breathe In

PG

12 mins.

Stars Anna Keane, Saskia Crowley, Laura Murray.

Frank

R

89 mins.

Stars Michael Fassbender, Scoot McNairy.

Jerry Fish At Windmill Lane

60 mins.

Live Music.

PG

Lean On Me

6 mins.

Stars Paddy C. Courtney, Joe Rooney.

PG

Living The Tradition

87 mins.

Stars Ilse De Ziah.

PG

The Shed

PG

14 mins.

Stars Siobhan Keane, John Fraher.

189 mins.

Stars Tom Hanks.

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Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows.

Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes.

Business

Game Changers

This month, Bloomberg’s Game Changers profiles Warren Buffett, a legendary investor with an astounding success rate, a billionaire forty times over and the most respected businessman in America. Tune in for interviews with Buffett himself, Microsoft co-founder Bill Gates, his Berkshire Hathaway partner Charlie Munger and many more.

Also on board are Bloomberg’s The Mentor, Enterprise and Eye To Eye. Euronews’ Business Planet and Hi-Tech are also available, both of which cast a cold eye over the world of business.

Comedy

Documentary

No Limbs, No Limits

In Animal Underworld, punk legend, Henry Rollins investigates the relationship between humans and some of the world’s most dangerous creatures.

Also on board is the documentary, No Limbs No Limits, which tells the amazing story of Irish woman, Joanne O’Riordan.

Born with Tetra-amelia syndrome, Joanne tells us how she doesn't her disability limit her life in any way.

The Horsemen, Bullit, Fish Life, Festive Ways, Inside The American Mob, Flavours Of Spain, The Universe: Ancient Mysteries Solved, Megafactories and Books Into Film are some of the other available titles.

Drama Aer Lingus offers a wide range of drama with boxsets of True Detective, House of Cards and Vikings, as well as multiple episodes from the brand new season of Game of Thrones and Burn Notice.

Veep

Multiple-award winning actress Julia Louis-Dreyfus has been captivating audiences with her impeccable comic timing since she played Seinfeld’s Elaine. Veep’s Selina Meyer is rather a different sort of role – she’s the ditzy vice-president of the United States.

Also featured on board are It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, Eastbound and Down, The Big Bang Theory, Girls and Hello Ladies.

News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

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Lifestyle

Ceol ar an Imeall

Enjoy the Big Apple as John Fitzpatrick, CEO of Fitzpatrick Hotels North America, invites us to explore his quintessentially Irish hotel and his version of New York in the TV short, Fitzpatrick Hotels New York.

For more on Irish culture, food and music, tune into Imeall, Ceol ar an Imeall, Tales of Irish Castles, The Design Doctors, Kevin Dundon: Modern Irish Food and Anthony Bourdain: The Layover.

In this month’s episode of Young Hollywood: Evolution Of, we delve into the life of Lady Gaga. Also available are episodes of Derren Brown: Trick Of The Mind, Pawn Stars, Wines of the New World, Videofashion Specials, Journey Into Wine and Video Killed The Radio Star.

Sport

Kids Kings of Hurling

Gazoon

Outopus is a slapstick comedy about five octopus friends, confined to living in a boring fish tank, watching the ocean from their window while planning all sorts of crazy escapes.

Sofia the First, Pip Ahoy! and Gazoon are also on board for kids to enjoy. Teens may enjoy Austin and Ally, a sitcom about a young internet celebrity.

In 2008, it had been almost 100 years since Kilkenny won the All Ireland GAA Hurling Championship. With that incentive and the added motivation of overtaking Cork for top spot in the leader board of most All Ireland titles, 2008 always had the potential to be an historic one. Tune into Kings Of Hurling to relive the epic battle.

Also on board is One Second in F1 Racing, World Of Tennis and HSBC Golfing World.

Drama Boxsets

True Detective With an incontestably sparkling record for producing engaging drama, HBO has been making waves in the television market for the last ten years, going so far as to pull our attention from Hollywood with its on the nose, award winning writing.

The latest crime drama to make waves is True Detective, a cop-show with an existential twist – think less coffee and donuts and more philosophical speeches, cans of Lone Star, and awkward silences.

Most notable is, perhaps, the show’s elite cast, featuring Matthew McConaughey, and prolific character actor, Woody Harrelson.

The pair play an oddcouple of police detectives investigating the seventeen year murder spree of a Louisiana serial killer.

Marty, played by Harrelson, is the straight man to McConaughey’s idiosyncratic ‘Rust’ Cohle; a man just as likely to spew a nihilistic soliloquy as drunkenly incite a bar brawl. As the show

slowly progresses, using a multi-timeline narrative, the mystery of the serial killer, as well as the series of events that has left these two middle aged homicide detectives the broken men they are today, are revealed.

OU R V TOP TICE CHO

A gritty crime series about two Louisiana cops hunting a notorious serial killer.

In its short run, True Detective has already achieved an obsessive, cult-following and worldwide acclaim amongst the critics. Not bad for only eight episodes.

House Of Cards House of Cards has rapidly become one of the most popular new shows since its debut on Netflix in 2013. Originally set in Britain in the nineties, Netflix’s political whirlwind drama takes place in present-day Washington, DC. House of Cards is the story of Frank Underwood (played

by Kevin Spacey), a Democrat from South Carolina’s 5th Congressional District and House Majority Whip who, after being passed over for appointment as Secretary of State, decides to exact

his revenge on those who betrayed him with the help of his equally cunning wife (played by Robin Wright).

The series also stars Kate Mara and Corey Stoll in leading roles.

The show received nine of Netflix’s fourteen total nominations for the Primetime Emmy Awards.

Among its nine nominations were Outstanding Drama Series, Outstanding Lead Actor in a Drama Series for Kevin Spacey, Outstanding Lead Actress in a Drama Series for Robin Wright,

and Outstanding Directing for a Drama Series for David Fincher. Robin Wright also won the Golden Globe for Best Actress, making the show the first online-only series to win a major acting award.

The show delves into the dark underworld of politics and peels away the layers of what is often brushed under the rug by the mainstream media. This is Kevin Spacey at his finest and one of his most dynamic roles yet.

You will be hooked after the first episode.

A political drama series that delves into the dark underworld of politics.

Vikings History buffs, action lovers and Game of Thrones and Rome fans will appreciate this historical drama which drops the viewer into the sweaty, violent and gruesome world of Viking Ragnar Lothbrok, one of the best-known mythological Norse heroes and notorious as the infamous enemy of England and France.

Ragnar, played by Travis Fimmel, pioneers the first daring raids into England with the support of fellow warriors. His brother Rollo (Clive Standen), and his wife,

the shieldmaiden Lagertha (Katheryn Winnick) star as the show’s protagonists.

The series beautifully outlines the trials and tribulations of Ragnar’s band of Viking brothers and his family as he rises to become King of the Viking tribes. His quest is not without conflict. We see his character develop as he strives to live up to his destiny – as well as being a fearless warrior.

Ragnar embodies the Norse traditions of devotion to the gods: legend has it that he was a direct descendant of

Odin, the god of war and warriors.

Nancy DeWolf Smith of The Wall Street Journal noted that the ‘natural and authentic’ setting and costumes, and appreciated that Vikings was not a celebration of sex and violence, but ‘a study of character’. Vikings appeals on another level – highlighting the inner struggle of a man destined for greatness and the effects of his legacy on those around him.

A historical drama series chronicling the gruesome world of the Vikings.

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Radio On Demand On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows. Choose from an extensive range of award-winning programmes.

EASY LISTENING

CL ASSIC AL

JA Z Z

INDIE

Fitzpatrick Hotels

Opera

The Blue of the Night

Jazz On The Bay

Indie Hits

Contemporary easy listening from both sides of the Atlantic brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.

Opera Night on RTÉ Lyric fm brings the world’s great opera from the world’s great opera houses to the greatest theatre of all: your radio!

Presented by Eamonn Lenihan of RTÉ Lyric fm, The Blue Of The Night broadcasts a mix of roots, folk, world, ambient and classical music.

Melanie O'Reilly hosts a special programme in this RTÉ Radio 1, PPI awardwinning series, capturing the spirit of jazz from San Francisco Bay to Dublin.

Listen out for your favourite indie tracks and artists including The Smiths, Wilco and The Black Keys to name but a few!

IRISH

KIDS

POP

Ceol na nGael

Irish Pulse

The Club

Chart Hits

Join Seán Ó hÉanaigh of RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta, as he brings you traditional Irish and folk music.

Irish Pulse brings you some of the most famous Irish songs in recent history. Listen out for U2, Thin Lizzy and many more!

On this special edition of RTÉjr Radio’s The Club, Louise Denvir explores Ireland's wildlife for the younger ones!

Tune in as Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-tothe-minute pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic!

POP

ROCK

The Nicky Byrne Show A music driven entertainment show from RTÉ 2fm mixed with guests from the world of music, entertainment and TV, presented by Nicky Byrne and Jenny Greene.

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Top Ten Weekday mornings you’ll find Ray Foley and JP Gilbourne on 98FM! Join the boys for the funniest way to wake up in Dublin.

Nova Irish Classic Rock For 60 minutes, Marty Miller is here with some of the greatest rock bands around. Sit back, relax and enjoy your flight!

The Cathal Murray Show Enjoy an exclusive edition of RTÉ Radio 1’s The Weekend on One with Cathal Murray, featuring an eclectic mix of music from all genres.

TA L K R A D I O

Documentary on One

Best of Moncrieff

The award-winning RTÉ Radio 1 Doc on One brings you two documentaries, ‘Lions on Tour – The Jersey Returns’ and ‘In San Francisco Streets’.

Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues.

Tune in every weekday 1.30–4.30pm on Newstalk 106–108fm.

Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

Why not begin with some of our crew’s favourites below!

A L L T I M E FAVO U R I T E S

Elton John

Amy Winehouse Back to Black Beatles 1 Elton John Goodbye Yellow Brick Road Fleetwood Mac Rumours U2 The Best Of 1990–2000 E L EC T R O

Moby

Basement Jaxx Scars Daft Punk Random Access Memories Depeche Mode Sounds Of The Universe Moby Innocents Sohn Tremors OPER A

Andrea Bocelli

Alfie Boe Alfie Andrea Bocelli Aria Anthony Kearns With A Song In My Heart Katherine Jenkins Believe Noah Noah

A LT E R N AT I V E

Ray La Montagne

Beach House Teen Dream Foals Holy Fire Placebo Battle For The Sun Ray La Montagne Gossip In The Grain Sigur Ros Valtari IRISH

The Cranberries

Aslan Live in Dublin Keith Cullen With Eyes Open Rory Gallagher Notes From San Francisco The Cranberries Roses The Frames Fitzcarraldo

POP

Paolo Nutini

Girls Aloud Ten James Blunt Some Kind Of Trouble Little Mix DNA Paolo Nutini Caustic Love Sam Smith In The Lonely Hour

CL ASSIC AL

Alexandre Tharaud

Anne Akiko Meyers The Four Seasons Rachel Podger Guardian Angel Alexandre Tharaud Chopin: Journal Intime André Rieu Music Of The Night JA Z Z

Hypnotic Brass Ensemble

Brian Blade & The Fellowship Band Landmarks Joe Jackson The Duke Hypnotic Brass Ensemble Fly: The Customs Prelude Louis Prima All Time Greatest Hits

RNB

Alicia Keys

Alicia Keys The Element Of Freedom Timothy Bloom Timothy Bloom Jason Derulo Talk Dirty Kelis Food Asher Roth Retrohash

COUNTRY

Hunter Hayes

Allison Moorer Crows Brantley Gilbert Just As I Am Hunter Hayes Storyline Scotty McCreery See You Tonight The Secret Sisters Put Your Needle Down M E TA L

Megadeth

Deftones Koi No Yokan Megadeth Thirteen Motörhead The Wörld Is Yours Rammstein Made In Germany Slayer South Of Heaven

ROCK

Soundgarden

Foo Fighters Wasting Light Pixies Indie Cindy Neil Young & Crazy Horse Psychedelic Pill Soundgarden King Animal The Black Keys Turn Blue SEPTEMBER 2014

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GATE N UMBER

Visit Saint Patrick’s Cathedral in the heart of Dublin

Now including stunning WW1 exhibition ‘Lives Remembered’

House, Courtyard Café, Parklands, Events & Conference Centre

An Italian Palazzo in the Liffey Valley House and Café open daily to 31st October 2014, 10am-6pm.

Tour of the house includes the Berkeley 18th Century Costume and Toy Exhibition Restored 18th century parklands open daily with FREE admission

Parking: Exit 6, M4, Celbridge West (20km from Dublin City) Dublin Bus: 67 from Merrion Square to Historic Celbridge village

Open Daily For Visitors

Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Saint Patrick’s Close, Dublin 8

phone: 01 4539472 | web: stpatrickscathedral.ie

www.castletown.ie

Tel +353 1 6288252

Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport K EY

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If you have any queries about your connecting flight please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS

Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for: • • • • •

• • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

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Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals.

Personal service and fast turnaround assured.

OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY AND KILKENNY, IRELAND

New York T: 212 965-1148

Kilkenny T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

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Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America.

Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg

Vancouver

Seattle

Minneapolis

Milwaukee

Denver Indianapolis

Columbus

Tulsa Oklahoma City

Nashville Memphis

Burlington Portland ME

Rochester Boston Nantucket

Pittsburgh

New York Philadelphia

Baltimore

Washington (Dulles)

Saint Louis Cincinnati Washington (National) Lexington Louisville

Wichita

Las Vegas

Los Angeles Santa Ana Long Beach Orange County San Diego

Buffalo

Cleveland Dayton

Sacramento San Francisco San Jose

Grand Rapids

Chicago Des Moines

Omaha

Syracuse

Toronto

Detroit

Salt Lake City

Oakland

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

Greensboro Richmond

Raleigh–Durham Knoxville

Charlotte

Burbank

Phoenix

Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Charleston Savannah

Austin

Houston

San Antonio

New Orleans

Jacksonville

Orlando Tampa West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Miami

Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada)

With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-Clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

144 |

SEPTEMBER 2014

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America.

You can travel from Dublin direct to six North American destinations with up to 70 onward connections with our partner airlines.

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

Halifax

Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.

Helsinki Stockholm

Aberdeen Glasgow

Edinburgh Copenhagen Newcastle

Belfast Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Cork

Blackpool

Isle of Man

Hamburg

Manchester

Birmingham Cardiff

Amsterdam

London (Heathrow) Bristol

London (Southend) London Brussels (Gatwick)

Hanover

Berlin

Warsaw

Dusseldorf

Bournemouth

Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich Geneva Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Pula Marseille Nice Bologna

Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Perpignan

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante

Ibiza

Athens Catania

Malaga Faro

Agadir

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Izmir

Our Middle East and Australasia Route Network You can now book flights between Dublin and Abu Dhabi, and have full access to flights across the network beyond Abu Dhabi, to points including Australia, Asia-Pacific, the Indian Subcontinent and the Middle East. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

Bahrain Abu Dhabi Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Aer Lingus routes from Dublin (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways)

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SEPTEMBER 2014

Sydney

Melbourne

“Beautiful classics at reasonable prices”

A DUBLIN ICON SINCE 1927

Vogue

30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College) 30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College) Abbeygate street, Galway www.sweatershop.com www.thesweatershop.ie | T.T.+353 High st. Kilkenny +35311671 6712292 2292

Café Grafton Street

Bewley’s Café Grafton Street has been stirring the hearts of a nation for generations. Boasting a rich cultural and architectural heritage, it is also home to the magnificant stained glass windows by renowned artist Harry Clarke.

78/79 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 Phone: 01 672 7720 Email: gs@bewleys.ie www.bewleys.com

Come and enjoy our award winning hand-roasted coffee and delicious freshly baked desserts in a beautiful surrounding.

ND ELA

ks OF IR Lin

Award winning Thai food & endless cocktails.

Awarded Thai Select Premium Certification

gOLF & Travel West & North West Ireland

Enjoy Championship golf at Galway Bay Golf Resort & Connemara Golf Links with 2 nights at the Meyrick Hotel, golf at Carne Golf Links & Enniscrone Golf Club with 2 nights at Mount Falcon Estate, and golf at Rosapenna Golf Links with 2 nights at Rosapenna Golf Resort

From €845pps

South West Ireland

Enjoy golf at the famous Old Head Golf Links & Waterville Golf Club with 2 nights at the Trident Hotel, and golf at Killarney Golf Club,Tralee Golf Club & Ballybunion Golf Club with 4 nights at the Killarney Plaza Hotel.

From €1195pps

Diep Le Shaker Award winning Royal Thai Cuisine 55 Pembroke Lane, Dublin 2 | T: 01 661 1829 | www.diepleshaker.ie

For more detailed itineraries & options:

www.linksofireland.com

or email travel@linksofireland.com

Enjoy Wi-Fi and Mobile on board your transatlantic flight today* Wi-Fi on board On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

Switch on Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Mobile Network on board With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you always do**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

Connect Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

Purchase Internet Access Click the 'Buy Internet Access' button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a 24 hour pass.

Payment Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

Username and Password

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so and ensure it is in silent or vibrate mode.

Aeromobile Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Welcome SMS Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

Standard roaming rates apply.

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

Connected

Connected

** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy!

One hour pass €10.95 | $14.95 24 hour pass €19.95 | $24.95 148 |

Switch on

SEPTEMBER 2014

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet.

Standard roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator *A330 aircraft only.

The d hotel Drogheda

Enjoy a truly Irish experience on your vacation!

A stunning contemporary hotel overlooking the River Boyne in the heart of the Boyne Valley.

Authentic Traditional Irish pubs, Traditional Music, Craic, Turf ďŹ res, Snugs and Storys.

Log on to www.traditionalirishpubs.com or download the FREE app today!

The d hotel is only 25 minutes from Dublin Airport and the ideal base to explore the World Heritage Site of Newgrange, the Battle of the Boyne, Monasterboice, Millmount & Much More...

104 Bedrooms, Wm Cairnes & Son Gastropub estd. 1825, De Lacy’s Steak & Seafood Restaurant, Free WiFi & Car Parking.

The d hotel, Scotch Hall, Marsh Road, Drogheda T: +353 41 9877700 E: info@thedhotel.com www.thedhotel.com

Irish Pubs

Search for IRISH PUBS

www.traditionalirishpubs.com

Cloghan Castle

R A I LT O U R S IRELAND

First Class!

10% Discount For CARA Magazine Readers

Book Today - Travel Tomorrow Cliffs of Moher

• Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty • Waterford & Kilkenny • Cork & Blarney Castle • The Giant's Causeway • The Ring of Kerry • The Aran Islands • Connemara & Galway Bay • The Wicklow Mountains

ONE DAY TOURS TO NINE DAY TOURS fROm DUBLIN

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loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way!

Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.

Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: info@cloghancastle.com Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group Contact us for our Special Offers: www.cloghancastle.com

Car Free - Care Free

www.railtoursireland.com

TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045 e-mail: info@railtoursireland.com

Blarney Castle and Gardens

American Restaurant & Bar

A FREE APPETISER for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass Terms and conditions apply

5 Pubs 5 Food & Drink Vouchers Spectacular Connemara Scenery Unique Atmosphere of an Irish Pub Ph: +353(0)87 2238 764 info@connemarapubtours.ie www.connemarapubtours.ie

Parking costs less with

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BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie

™ It’s convenient cashless parking by:

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with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com

“Where Halloween Began’’ October 17th to November 2nd 2014

+353-46-9097065 www.spiritsofmeath.ie

TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE

1

Fresh, sensual and masculine, Versace Eros will seduce you. With its top notes of mint leaves, Italian lemon zest and apple, and base notes of cedarwood and oakmoss, you’ve just found your new favourite fragrance for men.

5 TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE Sleek, chic, classic and compact, no handbag is complete without the Very YSL Black Palette from Yves Saint Laurent. Create a smoky eye on the run, add a flushed cheek in a flash, and perfect your pout while you’re out with this handy, elegant and timeless beauty essential. It’s a must – just trust.

For perfect-looking skin, even without foundation, you can’t beat Skin Perfection from L’Oréal Paris.

Pores will look virtually undetectable, tone will appear more even and skin will feel super-soft. Sure, if it’s good enough for Cheryl Cole...

Read more about this wonder product on page 18 of Boutique.

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This month in

If you’re looking for a new timepiece, then clock this watch from Fossil. With its stainless steel wristband, white dial and black Roman numerals, it has a vintage feel while remaining thoroughly modern. Just timeless.

boutique 3 From the freshest new scent to the watch that says “I’ve arrived” (on time), here are our top five buys from the new issue of Boutique, your luxury shopping guide from Aer Lingus.

4

There’s a reason aviator sunglasses have There’s been around for decades and continue to be one of the most popular styles for men – they’re classic, cool and they suit every face shape. We love these shades from Police – arresting wouldn’t you agree? Turn to page 57 of the new issue of Boutique for more information.

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Check out the new issue of Boutique. Better brands, bigger savings, shop to your heart’s content without having to get out of your seat. Just perfect.

NEW ONBOARD

ANTHONY WOODS

TRIP OF A LIFETIME | REAL LIFE

Flying start

Born on an Aer Lingus flight to Portugal, Patrick Loureiro makes it to Dublin 40 years later. ou often hear of people who are nervous flyers but that’s never been a problem for me. I’ve been flying since the day I was born – quite literally. In fact, I was born several thousand feet in the air, so you could say that I’m more at home in a plane than anywhere else.

I suppose that my Trip of a Lifetime can be broken into two parts. The first begins in 1975 in Mozambique, a former colony of Portugal. My father, who was in the Portuguese military, was stationed there in the 1970s. My mother was eight months pregnant with me at the time the Carnation Revolution broke out in Portugal in 1974; there was nothing for it but to leave Mozambique as quickly as possible.

They left Beira, the country’s secondlargest city, with the intention of flying back to Lisbon – but a problem with the plane’s engine meant that they were diverted to Rwanda.

It was here that an Aer Lingus plane was chartered for Portugal.

Being the impatient type that I am, I decided not to wait until we landed

Y

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SEPTEMBER 2014

on home soil to make my appearance and, with the help of air stewardess Jackie Ryan and the Irish cabin crew, I was born somewhere over Zambia in a makeshift operating theatre in First Class.

It goes without saying that I was fascinated with planes and aviation as a child. I still am, to this day; although I am currently training to be an architect, I always dreamed of being a pilot. Growing up, the story of my birth was something that people were naturally interested in, not least because of my name. You can imagine that Patrick is not a popular name in Portugal, but my parents decided to name me after the plane that I was born in, the St Patrick. It suits my nature, I think; even though my birth was registered in Portugal and I grew up there, I have always felt more Irish than Portuguese.

I had always wanted to visit Ireland, too, but life, time and money always seemed to get in the way.

Then in July, I got a message on Facebook from the Aer Lingus press office. It read “By any chance, were you born on an Aer Lingus flight in 1975?” I discovered that the team

Special guest – Patrick Loureiro, above, with daughter Sara and wife Laura at Dublin airport.

Right, with Jackie Ryan, who helped deliver him on board the St Patrick in 1975.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination?

Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself.

The editor’s decision is final.

from Aer Lingus had been trying to track me down for a long time.

They invited me, my wife Laura and my daughter Sara to Dublin for a reception to commemorate that fateful journey almost 40 years ago.

Of course, we were shocked but thrilled to accept their offer. We spent a morning in Dublin doing interviews for the press and national radio, a photo shoot with the St Patrick and meeting its cabin crew at a lunch reception. It was especially emotional to meet Jackie, who was named my godmother for her help in delivering me. I was treated like a superstar for a couple of days; it was strange to be recognised by strangers because of my picture and story.

We got to spend some time in Dublin city, too, where I could indulge my love of architecture by visiting St Patrick’s Cathedral and seeing some of the beautiful bridges over the River Liffey.

I could easily live in Ireland, I think; for me, it is as comfortable and welcoming as Portugal and I felt at home from the moment I stepped off the plane. Our trip was short, but fantastic. Maybe next time, I’ll return with my mother and father, because really, the story is more theirs than it is mine. Needless to say, we’ll be flying with Aer Lingus – we know we’ll be in safe hands.

In conversation with Lauren Murphy

The natural choice

An Irish law firm with global reach Not all law firms are the same.

In Ireland, Eversheds offers a real difference through a full service offering, seamless international capability with 53 offices in 30 jurisdictions and services that go beyond legal advice.

Our roots are in Ireland. But our reach is global.

We deliver local expertise coupled with access to a worldwide resource. Our range of products and unique project management approach enable you to control time, costs and risk.

If you want to experience a top quality law firm that is committed to unlocking the full potential of your organisation, then we would be delighted to hear from you.

Alan Murphy Managing Partner and Chairman – Eversheds International +353 1 6644 289 alanmurphy@eversheds.ie

“Strategic high quality legal advice, pragmatic commercial advice and real value for money.”

www.eversheds.ie

The criteria which saw Eversheds voted the overall leading firm in the Legal Business, in-house counsel survey 2013.