Cara September 2016

September 2016 CARA Magazine September 2016 Sarah Greene

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Dublin Theatre Festival

EYEFUL TOWERS Spotlighting Irish

Irish Lighthouses

Lighthouses

SHOREDITCH SURE THINGS East London Shopping

East London

A FAMILY AFFAIR Madrid for All Ages

Madrid Connecticut Toronto Canal Breaks

DUBLIN THEATRE FESTIVAL

WE MEET THE TRAILBLAZERS

FALLING INTO PLACE Autumnal Connecticut

Bright Spark ACTOR SARAH GREENE’S TIME TO SHINE

WELCOME TO IRELAND FROM AIB CORPORATE BANKING

Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248

Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219

Ireland’s No.1 Bank for Inward Investment.

AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland. As the leading Inward Investment bank, we land more international business than any other, and we’ve helped some of the world’s most recognisable brands thrive. To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.

Source: AIB has the largest market share of day to day banking relationships amongst foreign direct investment companies, Ipsos MRBI AIB Foreign Direct Investment Research, February 2014.

Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.

CONTENTS September 2016

54

Check in

Beckoning Beacons

06 WELCOME All aboard for the latest Aer Lingus news 08 ARRIVALS We meet and greet newcomers to Dublin Airport’s T2 11

CHECK IN Diaries out – this season’s best events are in

24 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The gallivants of Bodytonic’s Eoin Cregan 26 WEEKENDER Lucy White unwinds at the Powerscourt Spa Hotel 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary round-up 30 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins ooh-lá-larks around Paris 32

OPEN SEASON Jo Linehan’s Culture Night highlights

78

46

34 SARTORIALLY SATED Lauren Heskin’s retail therapy hit-list 36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO LA Jordana Johns shows us the sights

Marvellous Madrid

Casting Crew

Features 38 GREENE LIGHT Tony Clayton-Lea meets actor Sarah Greene 46 SCENE SETTERS Daragh Reddin’s motivation: the Dublin Theatre Festival 54 GUIDING LIGHTS Irish Lighthouses bedazzle Yvonne Gordon 62 RED ALERT Marie Kelly explores the hotspots of London’s Redchurch Street 78

TOWERING SUCCESS Madrid is muy bueno for Arlene Harris and family

88 CINE SEASON Lauren Heskin and L&S Studios present Connecticut

62

Red-HotChurch St

Regulars

Business

70

109 BUSINESS & LIFE Joe Callaghan’s Toronto trails and tribulations

YOU SAY, WE SAY Our Oktoberfest pick of your favourite beer gardens

98 5 BEST CANAL BREAKS Fionn Davenport in cruise control 106 48 HOURS IN ROME Roisin Agnew roams the Eternal City 125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Inflight news and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Playwright Stacey Gregg goes off-grid

116 A DAY IN THE LIFE London barbershop bigwig Brendan Murdock 118 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes’ edit of new apps, hotels and executive events 120 SLEEPS & EATS Lucy White paints a pretty picture of The Arts Club 122 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Sonia Deasy’s work/life balance

Welcome to BROWN THOMAS the home of the world’s leading luxury brands...

Alaïa • Alexander McQueen • Bottega Veneta Canali • Céline • Chloé • Christian Dior Dolce & Gabbana • Ermenegildo Zegna Givenchy • Gucci • Hermès • Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs • Saint Laurent Paris Stella McCartney • Tom Ford Valentino • Victoria Beckham

... the very best Irish brands ...

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Armani • Bobbi Brown • CHANEL • Charlotte Tilbury Dior • Jo Malone London • La Prairie • La Mer Laura Mercier • MAC • Nars • Sisley Tom Ford • Yves Saint Laurent

CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Junior Editor Lauren Heskin Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Editorial Assistant Eoin Mulligan Contributors Roisin Agnew, Tony Clayton-Lea, Mark Duggan, Yvonne Gordon, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Doreen Kilfeather, Jo Linehan, Daragh Reddin, Steve Ryan

Arlene Harris is a freelance journalist specialising in travel, health and lifestyle features. Writing regularly for several publications including The Sunday Times, The Irish Times, The Irish Independent and international titles, her travels have taken her on countless adventures, including: dog sledding in Norway, searching for the Aurora Borealis in the Arctic Circle, olive picking in Spain and truffle hunting in Italy. For this edition of Cara, she highlights the best family attractions in Madrid – see page 78.

ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie

Work has taken Joe Callaghan from Sligo to Dublin to Melbourne to Dublin (again) to Rio de Janeiro – and he is now firmly ensconced in Toronto. A former sports editor of the Irish Daily Mail, he’s a sports and features writer covering North America and beyond. His assignment for this month’s Cara saw him giddily hit the streets of his new home in the hunt for some of Toronto’s lesserspotted gems ... and its best tacos.

Feast vicariously from page 109.

ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editorial Director Jessie Collins Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Patrick Dillon Malone Directors Laura George, Robert Power, Gina Traynor, Raymond Reihill, Sam Power

Marie Kelly began her career almost 20 years ago at Hearst Magazines in London.

Since then, she has contributed both fashion and lifestyle features to Country Living Magazine, YOU Magazine, The Irish Times, the Irish Mail on Sunday, the Sunday Independent LIFE magazine, The Gloss, IMAGE Magazine and IMAGE Interiors. Currently the fashion editor of IMAGE and image.ie, Marie returned to the UK fashion capital for her first Cara assignment on the city’s hip shopping area, Redchurch Street – turn to page 62.

PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9622; image.ie, email corinne.vaughan@image.ie.

Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd. September 2016

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie IMAGE Publications Ltd PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014

EYEFUL TOWERS Spotlighting Irish

Lighthouses

SHOREDITCH SURE THINGS East London Shopping A FAMILY AFFAIR Madrid for All Ages

DUBLIN THEATRE FESTIVAL

WE MEET THE TRAILBLAZERS

FALLING INTO PLACE Autumnal Connecticut

Bright Spark ACTOR SARAH GREENE’S TIME TO SHINE

ON THE COVER

Sarah Greene photographed by Steve Ryan on location at The Victoria pub in London’s Mile End. Styled by Ruth Higginbotham, and hair and make-up by Helen Asher at ERA Management.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

CARA Magazine September 2016

WELCOME ABOARD

Aer Lingus chimes in the new season with exciting sports, a September sale and further transatlantic expansion. elcome onboard and thank you for choosing to fly with us today.

This September is an exciting month for Aer Lingus, with lots of interesting events and developments.

The month kicks off in suitably highoctane fashion, with the Aer Lingus College Football Classic on September 3 at Dublin’s Aviva Stadium. A highlight of the American college football calendar, this thrilling championship will see Boston College and Georgia Tech go shoulder pad to shoulder pad in their opening game of the US College Football season. Aer Lingus is the title sponsor of this major event, which will bring in more than 20,000 US visitors to Ireland, all of whom are warmly invited to the Welcome Village at Trinity College Dublin on September 2 and 3, where pep rallies and tailgate parties will offer a fun insight into American college culture.

W

We’ve been the fastest growing airline connecting Europe and North America over the past six years, and this month sees us expand our transatlantic network even further with inaugural flights on our new Dublin to Newark, New Jersey route, commencing September 1 and also Dublin to Hartford, Connecticut, commencing September 28. For a sneak preview of what the latter has to offer, check out our beautiful Connecticut photo story on page 88.

Aer Lingus also welcomes the launch of Dublin Airport’s new lounge 51st & Green, which is available to our Business Class guests and Elite and Prestige Gold Circle card holders. Transatlantic fliers who, to date, have enjoyed the Aer Lingus Gold Circle lounge located in T2 Departures area can now continue their lounge experience in 51st & Green when they have pre-cleared US customs and immigration and are waiting to board their flight.

And the good news continues: Aer Lingus is delighted to have been voted the third most-loved carrier across Europe.

This accolade comes hot on the heels of its recent four-star rating awarded by Skytrax last month (airlinequality.com), making Aer Lingus not just Ireland’s only four-star airline, but the only four-star airline connecting the United States to Ireland. On its air travel review website, Skytrax asked customers to rate their airline experience across eight categories, including comfort, on-board services, food and beverages, inflight entertainment, on-board Wi-Fi, airport services and value for money. Aer Lingus came third in Europe, with a 70.94 per cent satisfaction score, just behind Greek airline Aegean (80.7 per cent) and German carrier Lufthansa (71.01 per cent).

With the busy summer season almost behind us, September is a great month for pushing out great value airfares. Prolong that holiday feeling by grabbing a bargain with one of our great September offers on aerlingus.com. The world is your oyster – what are you waiting for?

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

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IRISH PRIDE It’s official! Aer Lingus is Europe’s third most-loved carrier. Customers voted on Skytrax’s review website, across comfort, on-board services, refreshments, inflight entertainment, airport services and value.

A-LIST LOUNGE Transatlantic Business Class guests and Elite and Prestige Gold Circle card holders can now enjoy Dublin Airport’s new 51st & Green lounge after preclearing US customs and immigration and before boarding their flight.

TRANSATLANTIC TREATS As of this month, guests can fly direct from Dublin to Hartford, Connecticut, and Newark, New Jersey, making road trips to New England in the Fall and business trips to Manhattan a breeze.

´

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WHO? Justin and Craig Miller FLYING IN FROM ... Washington DC and New York CRAIG SAYS ... “We’re brothers but we live in different cities so we’ve both flown in for a five-day golfing trip, heading up to Belfast and then west to Lahinch.”

WHO? Levi Gibson and Janet Lewis FLYING IN FROM ... Manchester JANET SAYS ... “Levi is one of my five great-grandchildren.”

WHO? Roger and Barney MurphyTurner FLYING IN FROM ... London ROGER SAYS ... “We’ve got a few days in Dublin and Belfast and then on to Westport to visit her brother. I’ve never been but I’ve heard so much about it ...”

ARRIVALS

For work or for pleasure?

Cara was at Dublin Airport’s T2 to greet the travellers.

WHO? Megan White and Alex LaFerney FLYING IN FROM ... New York, via London ALEX SAYS ... “Ireland is the first stop on our big post-college trip.”

WORDS BY LAUREN HESKIN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? Thea Cartmell and Craig Dalzell FLYING IN FROM ... Cardiff CRAIG SAYS ... “We’re just visiting my family for a long weekend.”

WHO? Louis Martens FLYING IN FROM ... Brussels LOUIS SAYS ... “I’m here to work on an architecture project on Shrewsbury Road.”

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WHO? Glenn and Deanne FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam DEANNE SAYS ...

“We were visiting family in Amsterdam and now we’ve got three days in Dublin and don’t know anything but where we’re staying ...”

WHO? Áine Sheehan and Claire Reynolds FLYING IN FROM ... London ÁINE SAYS ...

“Are we really going to feature? We travel a lot so we always read the ‘Arrivals’ page!”

BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ■

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Find out what’s on, where and when in September 2016

WILD AT HEART: CINDY CRAWFORD, TATJANA PATITZ, HELENA CHRISTENSEN, LINDA EVANGELISTA, CLAUDIA SCHIFFER, NAOMI CAMPBELL, KAREN MULDER & STEPHANIE SEYMOUR, BROOKLYN 1991 (VERSACE F/W 1991) © PETER LINDBERGH, PARIS / GAGOSIAN GALLERY

Check in

MODEL STUDENT Spanning a career that launched the likes of Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford to supermodel stardom (a term pioneered by the photographer himself), Peter Lindbergh’s extensive portfolio of fashion photography is taking centre stage yet again. In the starry exhibition A Different Vision on Fashion Photography, more than 220 black-and-white shots go on display at Rotterdam’s Kunsthal museum from September 10 until February 12, 2017. kunsthal.nl

Compiled by Eoin Higgins and Eoin Mulligan.

STAY

4 SUMPTUOUS SPA HOTELS Serene getaways to soothe both body and soul …

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ST

the dock of the (San Francisco) Bay, this lovely lodge is home to the Healing Arts Center & Spa, a serene getaway that has everything you might need to let your worries slip away, from a Tea Bar to on-site yoga retreats, shaman guides to signature massages, and even a heated, outdoor, meditation pool. Ohm … Rooms from $365. cavallopoint.com

T L E R O UX

N ROTH FELD

C EN

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Cavallo Point, San Francisco Nestled on

Ritz, Paris Completely renovated for the first time since 1989 – to the reported tune of €200 million – Paris’s snazziest hotel offers signature Chanel treatments (mais oui) in its fabulous new spa that also has a beautifully designed pool, above, personalised fitness programmes and acclaimed hair stylist David Mallett is available to its well-heeled residents. Rooms from €1,160. ritzparis.com

Gilpin Lake House, Cumbria Overlooking its

own private lake, the six-suite Jetty Spa is as secluded as they come. Its treatment rooms are pour deux, where couples can avail of a Spa Trail, which involves an aroma massage, halotherapy (a salt snug), a woodland walk, champagne in the hot tub and more. The spa is exclusive to Gilpin Lake House guests – rooms from £255. thegilpin.co.uk

Galgorm Resort & Spa, Co Antrim Blending nature

with nurture, Galgorm’s Thermal Village comes equipped with a snow cabin, aimed at enhancing blood circulation when combined with the Sanarium, which is a little cooler than a sauna. Meanwhile, the River House, raised over the serene Maine river, offers fitness and wellbeing classes for more active exertions. Rooms from €102. galgorm.com

FOOD

PHOTOGRAPHY

THE RIGHT CLICK From the gasp-inducing views of the Cliffs of Moher to Co Wicklow’s enchanting Glendalough, Ireland is home to much that is picturesque.

Bringing together the best in landscape photography, Irishlight (September 15 to October 6) is a three-week tribute to our natural beauty, with an exhibition, free talks and workshops in Dublin’s IFSC’s CHQ Building, as well as a conference event with international and Irish speakers in the Royal Marine Hotel, Dún Laoghaire on October 2. irishlight.ie

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GEORGE KARBUS

MANCUNIAN MUNCH Empty tummies at the ready, the Manchester Food and Drink Festival (September 29 to October 10) returns for another year, celebrating all that the city has to offer in fine dining and street cuisine. Make (or run, we won’t judge) your way to the Festival Hub, the focal point of the annual event – centred in Albert Square, expect an endless array of banquets, masterclasses, crafty cocktails, seasonal ciders, skilful demonstrations and parties galore. Now, does anyone have the number for a taxi home? foodanddrinkfestival.com

We’re closing briefly in order to bring you the greatest living whiskey experience.

RE-OPENING MARCH 2017 jamesonwhiskey.com/ojd

PETS

WOOF AND READY Canine cosplay – barking mad or totally (p)awesome? You decide at the second annual Doggie Do at Dublin’s Herbert Park this September 11, where mutts of all shapes, sizes and costumes will be enjoying their own mardi gras. In addition to training demos, grooming sessions and Dogs Trust Q&As, there will be special guest John Grogan, author of Marley and Me, which was adapted into the titular Aniston/ Wilson rom-com. thedoggiedo.com

CRAFT

A LOAD OF COBBLERS The first of its kind in Canada, The Storyboot School aims to offer visitors a unique and gratifying opportunity to learn and master the ancient, indigenous art of mukluk making, while promoting and celebrating the success of Canada’s Aboriginal people. Run by artisans and elders who have the traditional craft perfected, the practice is being brought to the forefront again at Toronto’s Bata Shoe Museum and offers a rare platform to discover more about the boots that have, at one time or another, been a staple for fashion mavens the world over – hello Beyoncé, Cindy Crawford et al! batashoemuseum.ca

MAGNOLIA PICTURES

are among the names taking part in LOVE ARTS … Footsbarn and Phil Coulter er 15-25). Ireland’s longest-running arts the 39th Clifden Arts Festival (Septemb .ie breathtaking scenery. clifdenartsfestival bash takes place in venues amidst Clifden’s

AW SHUCKS

CINEMA

WHAT’S UP DOC? This year’s IFI Documentary Festival (September 22-25) brings together several Irish debuts, 13 feature-length documentaries and a world premiere. Consistently raising the bar for Irish filmmaking talent, the annual event is a glimmering platform for both homegrown and foreign auteurs, with acclaimed Werner Herzog’s latest, highly-anticipated work, Lo and Behold: Reveries of the Connected World, above, surely a highlight. ifi.ie

When you’ve got more than 60 years of experience under your belt, you’re guaranteed to know a thing or two about bivalve molluscs.

The Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival is no exception. Running from September 23-25, the world’s oldest oyster festival first first emerged in 1954, and has since come out of its shell to stand as one of the world’s pivotal seafood extravaganzas, with three days’ worth of street parades, a masquerade Mardi Gras and top-class entertainment. galwayoysterfestival.com

PICNIC TIME Closing off the Irish festival season in true mud-soaked-boots style, Electric Picnic returns for another three days of music, food, unfettered socialising and art this September 2-4. Lana Del Rey, LCD Soundsystem and The Chemical Brothers are headlining alongside fringe comedy acts, tasty food stalls, art installations and a pop-up eco-village. electricpicnic.ie

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UK mes r i o r f sh T e f i of e Ir d e it f Th m i L rs o e ad re

THIS SEPTEMBER IT’S TIME FOR OUR UK READERS TO TURN OVER A NEW LEAF.

From September 17th, The Irish Times in the UK will become digital-only.

To celebrate our move to digital, The Irish Times Premium Digital Subscription is now available to UK readers for a special half price offer of just £6* a month.

To sign up today, visit irishtimes.com/UKoffer and enter the code ITCARAMAG1

*Terms & Conditions: £6 per month price valid for 12 months

DIASPORA

PRINTS CHARMING

Born and raised in Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ruth Wilkinson studied fine art at the Institute of Art, Design and Technology (IADT) before working at Graphic Studio Gallery, Dublin’s oldest print gallery. In 2006 she moved to London to explore the art scene – and has been there ever since, becoming the creative director of Scream London and also founder of Scream Editions (screamlondon.com), an online gallery showcasing work by some of the most exciting artists in printmaking today.

How did you get into art buying?

While working as an assistant manager at Graphic Studio Gallery in Temple Bar I realised I had a huge passion for working with artists and selling art, so I moved to London and worked for John Martin Gallery in Mayfair before joining Scream in Fitzrovia.

Studying art definitely gave me a good understanding of the processes and skills involved.

What is the main thing you look for when choosing artwork to exhibit? I look for artists that have a clear identity running through their work, a personal style and signature thread that runs through their collections. I love to find artists that work in different media – I am innately drawn to printmakers but I love drawings, large canvas paintings and unique pieces of sculpture too.

London hangouts? I love Brixton – I’ve lived there for ten years and it feels very much like home; the bars, restaurants and small galleries are the perfect way to spend a lazy Saturday. I spend lots of time with my daughter Millie in Brockwell Park on the weekends; it has many different areas to explore and a beautiful “secret” walled garden too. We visit South London Gallery (southlondongallery.org) a lot as a family and I’m a massive fan of The Dairy restaurant in Clapham (the-dairy.co.uk). I eat there any 16 |

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chance I get and I love drinks at Zedel Brasserie’s Art Deco basement bar in Soho for special occasions (brasseriezedel.com).

Now that you’ve made your life abroad, how has your view of Ireland changed? I travel back to Dublin as often as I can, my family are there and I want my daughter to have a sense of the sea, so we go back once a month. I love Ireland, I think it is a really special place and I know how fortunate I am to have grown up in such a beautiful area. Going from Brixton to Dún

Laoghaire is a huge change but I love the feeling of calmness and slower pace to being back home.

Dublin feels like the whole city is full of energy right now – there are lots of interesting independent shops and restaurants opening and great art projects going on.

If you could live anywhere in the world where would it be? I always wanted to spend a few years living in New York but that ship has definitely sailed now. London is an incredible city to live and work in but I think my heart belongs in

Ireland and I do know that at some point I will be back.

Favourite hometown haunts?

Coppinger Row (coppingerrow. com) – the food is always amazing and I love the atmosphere there.

A scampi lunch in Finnegan’s of Dalkey (finnegans.ie) and a walk up over Killiney Hill, seeing the view of the bay always reminds me how lucky I am to have grown up close to the sea. And a visit to Taylor Galleries (taylorgalleries.ie) and IMMA (imma.ie) when I have the chance.

Now at Dublin Airport connecting passengers can get a personal assistant It’s called DUB HUB and it’s a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight. It couldn’t be easier with:

Free WiFi

No data roaming charges

No log in

No download necessary

DUB HUB is available in Deutsch, English, Español, Français, Gaeilge and Italiano.

Simply go to dublinairport.com/dubhub or scan this code.

© WWW.VISITBRUSSELS.COM / ERIC DANHIER

DESIGN

FINE LINES Set during the annual glam chaos of London Fashion Week, the London Design Festival (September 17-25) is an essential date on the world’s creative calendar. Bringing together events and exhibitions in more than 400 venues across the British capital, this year’s festival boasts You Say You Want a Revolution, a major retrospective at the V&A that showcases all-things mid-century, from fashion to film, music to political activism – as well as the absorbing work, below, of award-winning Sligo-based woodturner, Matt Jones, who is exhibiting with Etsy. londondesignfestival.com

BOOKS

COMIC FANS With book signings, second-hand book fairs, conferences and even an on-site comic strip school, Brussels’ 7th Annual Comic Strip Festival (September 2-4) is a lively celebration of all of our favourite panel-driven plots. Make sure to finish off the weekend by visiting Sunday’s Balloon Day Parade, where the world’s biggest comic characters will take to the streets as larger-than-life inflatables, parading through the city centre for hours of kooky, comic fun. comicsfestival.brussels

CULTURE

MUSIC

ISLAND MUSIC Stretching over three dulcet weeks, 29 concerts and 100 years of Irish music, the Composing the Island project at the National Concert Hall is a distinct ode to the Emerald Isle’s vast array of musical talent.

With the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra and the RTÉ Concert Orchestra taking the reins, nearly 200 works by 90 Irish composers will be performed from September 7-25, promising a one-of-a-kind tribute to Ireland’s tour-de-force of musical ability. nch.ie 18 |

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Just over two years since the Nobel laureate’s death, Seamus Heaney HomePlace will open its doors to the public from September 30 (seamusheaneyhome. com). Based in the acclaimed poet’s home village of Bellaghy, Co Derry, the visitor centre promises a complete retrospective of the man behind the words. Meanwhile, literary journal Irish Pages (irishpages.org) has recently published two Seamus Heaney memorial issues. The first, Heaney, focuses on poetry, memoir, reminiscence and literary essays directly relating to the man and his work. The sequel, After Heaney, focuses on the poet’s creative, critical and cultural legacy.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BOBBIE HANVEY

HOME AGAIN

2015 Europe's Leading Tourist Attraction

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Breakfast

DosTrece, Barcelona I came across DosTrece by chance one morning in Barcelona and was very glad that I did. Situated in the El Raval neighbourhood, they offer a wide variety of breakfast and classic brunch dishes including eggs Benedict, pancakes and smoothies, while also catering for vegans. The pancakes – three large ones served with a sticky maple syrup and market-fresh fruit – were fantastic and could possibly feed two as the portion sizes are BIG! Their breakfast/ brunch menu is served daily until 1pm while at night the restaurant turns into a lively bar with a stage downstairs. dostrece.es

Lunch

Picture, London I try to visit London as much as I can. I love Picture, which has restaurants in both Fitzrovia and Marylebone, for a great value lunch. Go for the pork cheek dish served with greengage plums, fennel and endive – a great example of seasonal, fresh ingredients – cooked by chefs Colin Kelly and Alan Christie. The customer service, managed by Tom Slegg, matches the warm vibe of the restaurant. They also have a great selection of wines, although I’d recommend clearing your calendar for the rest of the day if you want to have a boozy lunch here! picturerestaurant.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPH BY EOIN HIGGINS

Dinner

FOOD

FOOD FLIGHT

Talented and well-travelled, Grainne O’Keefe is a senior sous chef at Dublin’s popular Pichet restaurant (pichet.ie), she is also a partner in running pop-up, multicourse feasts with BiGpopups. Here, she takes us with her on a fantasy day trip of high-flying food and drinks.

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Wink, Amsterdam We were welcomed into the beautiful Wink by a charming maitre d’ in Amsterdam recently.

However, for me, it was the food that set this restaurant apart. The kitchen is run by Natasja Postma, whose cooking and attention to detail is outstanding. Each course was cooked to perfection and beautifully presented. I had a celeriac and truffle starter, which was simple yet packed with subtle flavours that, when combined, made for a really beautiful dish. bijwink.nl

Drinks

De Locos Tapas, Ronda Just over an hour from Málaga, the menu at De Locos is handwritten with each plate explained in detail.

There are a lot of Japanese and Moroccan influences. We ordered a load of tapas accompanied by recommended wines and the bill was less than €50. In particular, try the foie gras or the smoked sardines if available, but all the dishes are incredible here. de-locos-tapas.com

IRELAND’S MOST POPULAR ALE SINCE 1710

Discover over 300 years of character inside

Located less than a five minute walk from Kilkenny Castle and in the heart of Ireland’s medieval mile, is the home of Ireland’s most popular ale. Drop in and find out why The Lonely Planet listed us as one of the top 26 hottest new attractions in the world to visit in 2015. Discover stories of our rich heritage on a unique guided tour and meet some interesting characters along the way. Best of all, it’s all topped off with a perfectly poured pint of the red stuff.

book online at www.smithwicksexperience.com

and receive a10% discount off adult admission tickets The SMITHWICK’S and SMITHWICK’S EXPERIENCE KILKENNY words and associated logos are trademarks © Diageo Ireland 2016

finder

#CARA VIEW

POLAND “I took this photo at the beginning of my holiday in my parents’ garden. I was chilling in the hammock on a lazy Sunday afternoon. I thought that my flower dress and the colours of the hammock depicted, perfectly, my state of mind in that moment. Vive les vacances!”

Beata Piasecka, Poznan´; @jagomajo

You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Warsaw up to four times per week.

SPAIN “This picture was taken at Lola & Co, a restaurant in Madrid. I love food pictures, especially olives – so shiny and delicious, they are very common as a tapa with drinks or before starters, they are also the raw material for our precious liquid gold: olive oil!”

Jorge González, Madrid; @siempreenlacalle

PORTUGAL “With brightly coloured buildings, rustic doors and blue skies, the cobblestoned streets of Lisbon are every photographer’s dream. Hop in a tuk tuk and explore the famous seven hills for a stunning view of the city.”

Jessica Glynn, Dublin; @the_gapyear_guru

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon daily.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Madrid daily.

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OVER TO YOU

Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder

NETHERLANDS “The photograph was taken in Maastricht in a café called Koffie. I loved the message on the wall [“Enjoy coffee and offline conversation, no laptops here please”] which is a great reminder to be mindful and enjoy the coffee ... which was delicious, by the way.”

Ozlem Ekenler, Düsseldorf @pinsinmymap

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam four times daily.

SPAIN “I took this photo at the Benahavís rock pools just outside Marbella/Puerto Banus. It’s a really amazing place and a great location to get out into nature whilst providing a fun break from the busy towns and beaches. Definitely worth a visit.”

Matthew Bolster, Dublin @matt_bolster

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Malaga daily.

PORTUGAL “This picture was taken in one of the streets of Belém, near Lisbon while we were strolling through the city. It shows me in front of one of the many beautifully-coloured tiled walls this part of Portugal is famous for.”

Nicole Gretscher, Hamburg; @worldlovetraveller

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon daily.

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MY FIRST FOREIGN HOLIDAY WAS TO ... Hanover, Germany, but I was only six months old so I’m going to say Holland when I was six years old. We did a house exchange in the town of Alkmaar but travelled all over, notably to Amsterdam, which I loved (memories of cycling along the canals and nice craft toy shops). I was there again last year for the first time since – loved it; an unpretentiously cool city, with relaxed yet highly organised people.

IF I COULD LIVE IN ANY HOTEL IT’D BE …

Mango Bay (mangobayphuquoc.com) on Phu Quoc, Vietnam’s tropical paradise. An ethically and ecologically aware hotel, its rooms are made up of semi-outdoor wooden bungalows by the beach. The food is incredible, local staff so pleasant and, overall, it’s so peaceful.

WHAT GOES ON TOUR STAYS ON TOUR BUT ... Mentioning no names, we collected one artist from the airport after a snow-delayed flight, who was convinced after numerous vodkas in the airport lounge that he had a non-existent companion with him who we had to wait for. Or that time we found two nowpretty-famous producers/DJs play-wrestling at 4am in a festival car park with their tops off and trousers around their ankles ...

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK EOIN CREGAN is the promoter at Bodytonic’s Wigwam bar in Dublin 1 (wigwamdublin.com) and in charge of bookings for The Big Grill, Beatyard and Life festivals, and Banter series of talks with the Irish Times’ Jim Carroll. Stay tuned for Bodytonic’s Eatyard – a new outdoor “foodspace” beside The Bernard Shaw pub. Eoin, above, is also very well travelled, as revealed to Lucy White.

THE BEST CITY FOR FOOD IS ... New York. The culinary choices are endless and delicious, whether it’s breakfast, brunch or dinner. My faves include Frankie’s Spuntino (frankiesspuntino.com) for the best tomato sauce on Earth, Southern fried chicken and collard greens at Pies ‘n’ Thighs (piesnthighs.com) or ricotta and honeycomb pancake stacks at Five Leaves (fiveleavesny.com).

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MY IDEA OF HOLIDAY HEAVEN IS ... Spending all day every day on Playa Paraiso, Cayo Largo, a barely inhabited island off the south coast of Cuba. It looks like it’s straight out of a Bounty ad.

Warm, turquoise water, sweltering sunshine, coconut palm sun umbrellas and a teeny bar serving mojitos and piña coladas.

ERRICH PETERSEN

My three fan tasy travel comp anions are Will S mith, DJ Jazzy Je ff [above] and Cilla Black. The Fresh P rince of Bel A ir and Blind Da te were my favourite TV programmes as a kid!

THE PLACE THAT SURPRISED ME MOST WAS ... Buenos Aires. I had no idea what to expect but the city is a sparkling, vibrant Latin metropolis with a heavy European influence. BA doesn’t sleep, with endless entertainment every night and afternoon tea is an 8pm tradition with cake to die for.

OUTSIDE IRELAND, THE BEST MUSIC FESTIVAL IS ... SXSW, Austin, Texas. It’s a colossal melting pot of both up-and-coming and established music stars [Diet Cig, left], taking over every venue and pop-up space the city has to offer for seven days. Gigs, talks, movies, great BBQs and Austin charm, my standout is Erykah Badu performing inside a garage.

Michael Jackson Managing Partner

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GO SMART | POWERSCOURT HOTEL

A Night at the Palladium Lucy White lords it up at the colossal Powerscourt Hotel Resort and Spa. owerscourt is the second hotel I’ve stayed in this year to have a bathtub telly, the other being at London’s Arts Club: see page 120.

Certainly, it’s a trend I approve of: in this gigantic suite in Co Wicklow, I found myself wallowing in the deepest, most fragrant suds to the – random alert – Tom Hanks/ volleyball bromance film, Cast Away.

As a five-star, 194-room colossus, Powerscourt has considerably more creature comforts than Hanks’ screen counterpart – the Utopia-soft Marriott pillows alone are worth the stay. And while it does feel far from the madding crowds, the hotel is only eight kilometres from the N11.

Its mock, crescent-shaped Palladian architecture – completed in 2007 – was inspired by the 800-year history of the Powerscourt Estate and, while once populated by Celtic Tiger-era cronies as a Ritz-Carlton property, it now has a much more inclusive, family-friendly feel. These days you’re more likely to be rubbing shoulders with thirtysomething couples, tweenin-tow parents, wedding parties and octogenarians having afternoon tea in the Sugar Loaf Lounge.

P

brightening facial. The state-ofthe-art thermal suite (hammam, sauna, wet rooms) and relaxation area completed an afternoon of shameless recumbency.

There’s nothing like a good feed after some serious R&R, and the low-ceiling, high-standard Sika Restaurant didn’t disappoint, DATE NIGHT serving artfully executed Powerscourt Hotel Resort Cross the threshold dishes from seasonal and and Spa’s “Grown Up Getaway” into the lofty entrance locally sourced produce. package is from €155 per person (which feels rather like Bar food can be found in sharing and includes overnight a grand old cruise ship) McGill’s, a curiously bijou accommodation, dinner in Sika and rest your eyes on the Oirish pub tucked away off restaurant and breakfast the rolling green lawn and the hotel’s mighty “events” following morning. woodland views, beyond corridor that leads to several which is the 18th-century function rooms. The cod of Powerscourt House and my fish‘n’chips was super-fresh Gardens – a must-visit at any time and expertly battered – not too of year, not least in autumn when brittle, not too soft.

Top, the imposing the trees start to pop with colour.

The Powerscourt Hotel Resort Powerscourt Palladium, above, There’s also a nearby 36-hole, and Spa may look overstated but the interior lap championship-standard golf club. don’t be fooled – it’s a place for of luxury.

Snubbing tee times for TLC unwinding, be it exploring the 400 however, I languished in the ritzy hectare grounds or wallowing in the ESPA Spa’s 20-metre Swarovski bath. Watching telly.

Crystal-lit heated pool – a Tigerera centrepiece if ever there was (Enniskerry, Co Wicklow, 01 274 8888; one – before availing of a skinpowerscourthotel.com)

WHAT TO PACK

Panel Resin Necklace

by Oliver Bonas, £22 at oliverbonas.com

Lomo’Instant Honolulu Edition, £129 at bearandbear.com Carlina Trimmed Sunglasses by Chloé, €241 at Arnotts, Henry Street, Dublin 1

Organised Pattern Scarf by Electronic Sheep, €124 at electronicsheep.com

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Silk Shirt by Lennon Courtney at Dunnes Stores, €110 at dunnesstores.com

Beginning Basic Wallet by Parfois, €24.99 at parfois.com

Secret Swan Necklace

by Beatriz Palacios, €495 at beatrizpalacios.com

Tom Ford Orchid Soleil (50ml), €99 at brownthomas.com

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican browses books, downloads and other literary happenings.

THE FLOATING PIERS

THE FLOATING PIERS, LAKE ISEO, ITALY 2014-2016/WOLFGANG VOLZ

BY CHRISTO AND JEANNECLAUDE (TASCHEN, PAPERBACK)

MEMOIR THE PIGEON TUNNEL: STORIES FROM MY LIFE by John le Carré (Penguin, hardcover, Kindle, audiobook, September 8). Le Carré has mined his life for his fiction but this is his first memoir. Brief, vivid glimpses of a welltravelled life: the Soviet Union before and after the Berlin Wall collapse; a parrot in a Beirut hotel mimicking machine-gun fire; visiting Rwanda’s museums of the unburied dead. It’s worth getting the audio book to hear le Carré’s own voice.

TRAVEL EPIC BIKE RIDES OF THE WORLD (Lonely Planet Epic Series, hardcover) Check out 200 cycling routes round the world – from France to Mongolia, New York to Patagonia – and from family-friendly, sightseeing rides, to epic adventures off the beaten track and professional tours. Each ride comes illustrated with great photos, a map and a toolkit of practical details – where to start and finish, how to get there, where to stay – to help plan your trips.

FICTION THE WONDER by Emma Donoghue (Picador, Kindle, hardcover, paperback, September 22) Set in the Irish midlands in the 1850s, it follows a young girl who stopped eating but still lives and a nurse, sent from England to corroborate the ‘miracle’. Backdropped by a country recovering from devastating famine, and drawing on numerous early accounts of “fasting girls” in Europe and North America, this is taut and brilliantly told. Donoghue’s best since Room.

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For 16 days this summer – June 18 to July 3 – Italy’s Lake Iseo was re-imagined: 70,000 square metres of shimmering yellow fabric, supported by a modular floating dock system of 220,000 highdensity polyethylene cubes, created a three-kilometre walkway, connecting the mainland to the islands of Monte Isola and San Paolo. The Floating Piers is Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s first large-scale project since The Gates in New York’s Central Park in 2005. For those who didn’t get the chance to walk on water, Taschen has produced this handsome book of photos, sketches, models, and designs, revealing the process from original drawings through to the technical, bureaucratic and logistical feats that allowed the concept take float.

TWO CORKERS Cork is the place for book-lovers this month, firstly with the Cape Clear Island International Storytelling Festival (September 2-4;

capeclearstorytelling. com) featuring readings, workshops, walks and dances.

Then the Cork International Short Story Festival (September 7-10; corkshortstory.net) will see awardwinning writers David Park, Claire-Louise Bennett, Polly Samson and Donal Ryan, descend for readings, discussions and the Seán Ó Faoláin prize-giving.

DOWNLOAD

PODCAST THE BOOK SHOW, RTÉ Back from the summer recess, The Book Show, presented by Sinéad Gleeson, above, focuses on new literary releases, readings, author interviews, special themed episodes and short documentaries.

It’s wise, witty and wideranging. For September, expect discussions with Kate Summerscale and Helen Dunmore as well as a recorded stage show from Culture Night (airing on Saturday 17) focusing on crime fiction, with Crash Ensemble performing as a backdrop to Adrian Crowley reading.

ADVERTORIAL

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DUB HUB is a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight.

6 EASY STEPS FOR CONNECTING AT DUBLIN AIRPORT 1. Listen to on-board announcements – as you taxi towards your gate on arrival, listen out for any information that the flight crew may have. They sometimes detail flight or gate changes.

3. Use Dublin Airport’s free Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB on your mobile device. No data roaming charges, downloads or login required. DUB HUB is in English, Français, Italiano, Español, Deutsch and Gaeilge.

2. Do you have your boarding card? If not, proceed to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections desk where staff are on hand to help you with any queries.

4. On the DUB HUB home page, enter your Aer Lingus flight number to get your gate number and the time you have before your flight starts to board.

USE THE DUB HUB COMPANION MAP Smartphone or tablet users can access the free DUB HUB easy connecting companion as soon as you arrive in Dublin Airport. It’s powered by Google, and will show you the quickest, easiest route to your connecting flight. Remember to use free Dublin Airport Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB without using your mobile data or incurring roaming charges.

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5. Pass through security, remember to check your gate number on the Flight Information Display Screens in case of change.

6. For all Terminal 2 departure gates, be it for Europe or US pre-clearance, take the escalator upstairs. For Terminal 1, please follow the signs.

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AERLINGUS.COM |

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GO SMART | PARIS

5

Good Reasons to visit Paris this month.

Eoin Higgins has gone en Seine.

L’ARCHITECTURE Pompidou, Eiffel, Triomphe, Dame ... as much as they are imprinted on the mind’s eye of any Earthling who hasn’t spent their life under a rock, seeing France’s most iconic structures in the flesh, so to speak, is still an experience worth having. Meanwhile, the lesserknown beautiful/ugly/highly divisive modernist estates – remnants of the city’s housing boom from the 1950s to the 1980s – are a great architectural talking point.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PARIS four times daily, and from Cork once daily.

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FATTI BURKE

LA CULTURE Anyone with even an inkling of art appreciation will know that la ville lumière is just about the best city in the world for sating arty appetites. Indeed, Paris is a honeypot of all types of cultural goings on and September, in particular, is an even more fertile time for cultural vulturing, as the Festival d’Automne (festival-automne. com) gets under way.

Expect plenty of world-class theatre, live performance, dance, music, cinema, visual art and much more to pore over and adore.

LE SHOPPING Less crowded and with weather that’s far friendlier to bag-toting shoppers, Parisian retail therapy can be a real joy this time of year. From brilliant department stores, such as Le BHV Marais (on Rue de Rivoli, Hotel de Ville metro stop) with its unusual and high-quality brands and bargains, to the couture and chi-chi Rue Saint Honoré, and beyond to the newly trendsetting boutique scene in South Pigalle, there is much to tempt.

LE GRUB Paris is currently in the throes of a full-on gastro revolution and “vive le dîner!” is the creative response to a gutsy new manifesto embraced by brave young chefs and tradition-smashing restaurant guides such as Le Fooding. The Modern Parisian scene challenges the perceptions of what top-end French food can be, while creating an oeuvre that is unmistakably Gallic.

As a result, a stuffed pantry of often bijou, yet always creative, restaurant options is there for the tasting.

LE DÉSIGN Home birds will spread their wings, joyfully, for the late-night openings, debates and installations that bring together the cream of the city’s (and international) interiors movers and shakers for the aesthetic fireworks of Paris Design Week (September 3-10). Established to run alongside the massive Maison & Objet interiors show, Design Week is as much an inspiration for professional designers as it is for any interiors magpie.

ARANS

s i n c e 18 23

BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS shop online @ blarney.com

BLARNEY | BUNRATTY | TIPPERARY

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Open Season

Culture Night returns for its 11th annual outing and is bigger than ever, finds Jo Linehan. et your clocks to culture this September 16, as Culture Night (culturenight.ie) flings open the doors of the country’s most interesting museums, galleries, cathedrals, studios, observatories, libraries, parks, government buildings and theatres. The 11th annual national celebration is the biggest yet, with free tours, workshops, readings and performances taking place in unique and exclusive settings.

In Dublin, Ireland’s newest museum, EPIC Ireland, housed in the CHQ building in the IFSC, invites visitors to immerse themselves in the stories and journeys of the Irish people. Learn about the island’s most fascinating and pioneering people; see how Ireland’s diaspora changed the world and learn what being Irish is really all about.

The Royal College of Surgeons in Ireland lights up its historical building on St Stephen’s Green with a 3D-animated show, telling the story of the college’s foundation in 1784, right through its integral part in the 1916 Rising. One of Culture Night’s most popular destinations is back again this year: Áras an

S

Úachtaráin opens its doors to offer a glimpse inside the home of our President Michael D Higgins, overlooking the idyll that is the Phoenix Park.

Meanwhile, in the very cool Smithfield Square, expect interactive events from Makeshop and a not-to-bemissed spectacle

by Dublin Circus Project. Those who enjoy the romance of rail will love the show from international music project Girls & Stations, who will begin their performance in Heuston Station before travelling by train to Clara, Co Offaly, for more musical magic.

In the Rebel County, Alannah Hopkins hosts the launch of her long-awaited anthology On the Banks: Cork City in Poems and Songs, while comic book super-fans will revel in the Cork County Hall’s comic exhibition, complete with a Q&A hosted by Marvel Comics illustrator Will Sliney.

Top, artistic prowess at the Culture Night launch, and above, lounging on the steps of the obelisk before touring Áras an Úachtaráin in Phoenix Park.

Those with a more cinematic inclination will want to explore Ashford Studios in Co Wicklow, the current setting for the Vikings TV series, while emerging musicals star Áine Cahill’s dulcet tones are set to lull audiences in Cavan County Museum. And in Westport, Co Mayo, cyclists can indulge in a unique bike tour, as Gaeilge, and a taste of the region’s cultural and culinary highlights.

Rhythm and rhyme reign supreme in Armagh, thanks to the Armagh Rhymers who’ll sing, dance and story-tell behind the guise of their willow and flax masks.

Letterkenny’s highlight comes by way of Inishowen Carnival Group’s premiere of their new show, Elemental, a blend of large-scale sculptural installations, ambient music, lighting, choreographed processional and dance performance, featuring members of ZoNa Dance Company.

Away on the big day? Don’t forget that Culture Night isn’t just an Irish phenomenon – check out the New York, Paris and Leeds programmes for more cultural coups.

GARDEN VARIETY Autumn in Paris means hot chocolates, quiet city strolls and the adored annual Fête des Jardins (Gardens Festival). For 20 years, the floral celebration has encouraged green-seekers to uncover and rediscover the leafiest parts of the French capital. In total, more than 150 gardens, private parks and manicured spaces will be open to the public, with a host of environmentally educational events for grownups and little ones, free guided tours, gardening workshops, concerts, demonstrations and walks. The Parc de Bercy’s offering is especially bountiful, with free tours of the gardens, expert gardening talks and demonstrations aplenty. On from September 24-25; parisinfo.com.

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Sartorially Sated

With New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks kicking off this month, Lauren Heskin sources your retail therapy hotspots.

PARIS Les Puces de Saint-Ouen You’ll need to evaluate your luggage space before venturing here.

The mother of all flea markets, this is no village fête – every bargain hunter worth their antique silver salt-shakers comes from across Europe to snap up a plethora of brocantes at competitive prices.

Bring your haggling A-game and be sure to throw in the matching pepper pot. Open every Saturday to Monday. marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com

FUCHSIA McAREE

NEW YORK Marlow Goods In a bid to use the discarded hide of the locally reared, grass-fed cows, sheep and pigs that they serve in their restaurants, a Brooklyn couple founded Marlow Goods, producing simple, beautifully crafted leather and wool goods. Their store features brands with a similar creative ethos, including Irish designer Petria Lenehan, in a serene edit of ethical fashion at its most covetable. marlowgoods.com

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MILAN Wait and See Spicing up the usual streamlined, utilitarian style of Milan, Wait and See is the metallic, colour-clashing, embellished, glitter-bomb brainchild of Uberta Zambeletti. The eccentric womenswear collection – global brands and vintage finds – is housed within the walls of an 18th-century former convent. Sip on a coffee and peruse the racks for that one-off piece which is sure to shine in the streetstyle stakes. waitandsee.it

LONDON Labour & Wait This Redchurch Street store in Shoreditch (read more about this shopping oasis on page 62) heaves with crockery, utilitarian kitchen tools, sturdy storage options, books and stationery – even clothing and cologne – each chosen for its functionality and design longevity. It’s an homage to the past without the tawdry tack, drawing boys with beards like moths to a flame. labourandwait.co.uk

DUBLIN Anthony Peto Not a feathery fascinator in sight, this is millinery at its most refined. Handmade in his Paris atelier, Anthony Peto’s hats focus on simple design executed to perfection. He has been creating headwear since the early 1990s – and this, his first store outside the French capital, is on Dublin’s South Anne Street. Très charmant. anthonypeto.com

10,000,000 PEOPLE LEFT IRELAND FIND OUT WHERE THEY WENT AND WHAT HAPPENED NEXT EPIC Ireland should be on your ‘must do’ list of things to do in Dublin (TripAdvisor) If I could give this 6 stars I would (TripAdvisor)

EPIC IRELAND. DUBLIN’S NEWEST VISITOR ATTRACTION. The 10 million people who left Ireland and their 70 million descendants have influenced the world in many awe-inspiring and unexpected ways. Discover their story in a groundbreaking interactive experience.

THE CHQ BUILDING. JUST 500M ALONG THE RIVER LIFFEY FROM O’CONNELL BRIDGE. BOOK TICKETS NOW ON EPICIRELANDCHQ.COM

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I can’t speak of MARIO’S PERUVIAN RESTAURANT without salivating. Not much thought went into the decor – think doctor’s surgery meets small function room – but who cares? The food is decadent to the last bite. Try the ceviche mixto for a fresh citrus explosion.

(5786 Melrose Avenue, +1 323 466 4181)

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

LOS ANGELES

From the best Indian food to a birthday suitrequired Korean spa, Jordana Johns has LA sussed.

With the food truck scene in LA booming, it’s sometimes hard to decipher between good and popular. But I find LEO’S TACOS TRUCK to be more than worthy of their following. Famous for their Al Pastor Taco, which is basically spit-roasted pork, you will find this perpetually busy truck in a gas station parking lot. (1515 South La Brea Avenue, +1 323 346 2001; leostacostruck.com)

MORE ABOUT JORDANA

Take in a spectacular, unobstructed view of LA’s skyline, from the 16th floor of THE PERCH , a swanky French bar and restaurant. Enjoy live music by the warm glow of fire pits and a sprinkling of fairy lights.

Indulge in specialty cocktails and French food, served with an LA twist.

Reserve in advance. (448 South Hill Street, +1 213 802 1770; perchla.com)

Dublin-born Jordana Johns has lived in Los Angeles since 2003.

She has worked across the creative arts, most recently on the curation team at The Annenberg Space for Photography, before backpacking around the world on a shoestring. Today, she is a full-time “Momager” to her twin boys who started their acting careers at six months old.

Not for shy folks, the Korean WI SPA has gender-specific floors requiring birthday suits only! $25 gets you access to saunas, steam rooms, hot tubs and more for the day. Splurge on the body scrub and you’ll question if you’ve ever washed correctly in your life. (2700 Wilshire Boulevard +1 213 487 2700; wispausa.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LOS ANGELES four times per week.

BRUCE DAMONTE

DON’T MISS

The best Indian I’ve had was at SAMOSA HOUSE – hardly surprising when you see the authenticity of the place. Half dining hall, half bazaar and a blaring Bollywood soundtrack. (11510 West Washington Boulevard, +1 310 398 6766; samosahouse.com)

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Founded by Eli and Edy Broad, THE BROAD houses their $2.6 billion personal art collection. Entry is free but book in advance. Don’t miss Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room, an interstellar experience. (221 South Grand Ave, +1 213 232 6200; thebroad.org)

JOHN WILLIAMS closes the Hollywood Bowl summer concert series, September 2-4. The E.T., Jaws and Star Wars maestro leads the LA Philharmonic Orchestra on a journey through cinema, including visual effects and fireworks. (hollywoodbowl.com)

WITH NAOMI CAMPBELL

W W W. N E W B R I D G E S I LV E R W A R E . C O M #NSBlueBox

Greene Light From Victorian London in Penny Dreadful to modern day Toronto in a new TV thriller, Sarah Greene is on a genre-busting roll.

WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS STEVE RYAN

“I

’m judged every day for what I do as an actor, but I don’t like people judging me as a person because they don’t know me, or what I’m like with my mates. I find the obsession with the notion of celebrity as strange. I was never like that; I never had posters of Take That on my wall, so I just don’t understand it. I’ve met some lovely fans along the way, though. Some people queue for days just to keep their place on the red carpet ...”

Cork-born actor Sarah Greene is justifiably wary (if not bemused) of the glare of the wrong kind of spotlight – last year, when she split up from Irish actor (and former Cara cover star) Aidan ‘Poldark’ Turner, her boyfriend of some five years, the tittletattle titles were out in force. Greene sighs in a why-are-they-interested way. “I take

the Michael Gambon approach,” she says, referencing the much-admired Dublin-born actor. “Don’t take it too seriously and try to be yourself as much as possible. And hope you’re not slated!”

Chance would be fine thing. Since graduating from the Gaiety School of Acting in 2006, the charming and voluble Greene has organically engineered as fine an acting career as anyone could wish for: acclaimed theatre roles for Rough Magic, Druid, and the Abbey; Olivier and Tony Award nominations for her performance in the Broadway production of Michael McDonagh’s The Cripple of Inishmaan. Her film roles include The Guard (2011), Standby (2014), Noble (2014), and Bradley Cooper dud Burnt (2015), whilst television work includes RTÉ’s Eden (2008), Sky/Showtime’s Penny Dreadful

(2014-2016), this year’s RTÉ/ Sundance TV co-production of Rebellion, and the US television character-driven drama, Ransom, which she is presently filming in Toronto and Europe (and which sees her play Maxine Carlson, an untested psychological profiler eager to prove herself to her crisis/hostage negotiator boss).

It is understating it to claim that Greene excels in whatever creative medium she appears in. Across theatre, film and television she undertakes a chameleonic approach that makes it difficult to recognise her in the cold light of day. It’s also valid to say that no matter how much time she is on stage or screen (lengthy enough as the eponymous lead in THISISPOPBABY’s Abbey production of Alice in Funderland, blink-and-you-miss-it in Standby, a regular presence in Penny Dreadful, one of the primary characters in Rebellion), there is something compelling about her that draws you into the characters she creates.

Acting, pronounces Greene, was the only option for her.

“Well, I wanted to be a vet for about five minutes. But from the time I saw a Little Red Riding Hood panto – that was it really, I just wanted to get up on stage.

I was lucky in that my parents put me through classes – they knew there was nothing else I’d rather do.

Acting makes me incredibly happy, and I think my parents realised that, so they got behind me – there was never a question about it.”

The way Greene tells it, the very act of creating a character fulfills her. “I enjoy expressing myself; I don’t think I’m very articulate, I get muddled up with words, and I get nervous with myself, but I love playing characters – and ones who are more intelligent than I am. I love telling a story.”

She has been lucky in her career, she admits, in that her instinct for chasing good parts has increased year-on-year since she started acting professionally.

Resilience plays a part, and being

"I hope I continue to be proud of the work I do, and give it my all"

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INTERVIEW

courageous enough to say no to roles that she thinks won’t suit her.

“I’m very selective about what I choose to do, and every audition I go for I think, okay, if I got this part could I do it? I turn down a lot of auditions for stuff I don’t see myself doing, or that I don’t think I’d be proud of. I’ve worked very hard to get where I am, and I’m very proud of the work I’ve done so far – there are one or two duds in there, obviously – but I hope to continue to be proud of the work I do, and to give it my all.”

What are the criteria for her to say yes to the roles she is offered?

“I need to trust the people, the writing behind it; I need it to be honest. The whole thing of acting is honesty and truthfulness – if you can be both in a scene then it makes for good work, and it’s also interesting to watch.”

Sarah is aware that her profile is rapidly rising at a time when the American film industry is turning its eyes towards Europe. Irish directors and Irish actors have rarely been so much in contention for

THE LIKES OF SARAH GREENE

recognition by Hollywood and in demand for work.

“A different way of auditioning has opened up the market place to us,” she allows. “America adores European casts now, possibly because our training is second to none. The difficult thing at the moment for Irish female actors is that people won’t cast them in the lead role. You only have to look at Saoirse Ronan, however, to see how much of a mark she is making.”

Greene is correct to assume that, while some years ago it was male actors such as Michael Fassbender, Colin Farrell, Brendan Gleeson, Pierce Brosnan and a few more waving the Irish flag in America, next year will see more and more females in the frame.

“We have some incredible Irish women doing great work,” she enthuses. She mentions the likes of Ruth Bradley, Orla Brady, Charlie Murphy, Ruth Negga, Deirdre O’Kane, and is fully aware there are quite a few more names she could add to the list.

“People are starting to take a chance – the cast list for Rebellion started with Charlie, Ruth Bradley, and then myself. The likes of Saoirse is paving the way for us, and we’re all hanging onto her coattails.

And then, of course, there’s Sharon Horgan, the co-creator, co-writer and co-star of the comedy series, Catastrophe [and soon-to-be released HBO series Divorce, starring Sarah Jessica Parker] – she is world class, a powerhouse.

It’s high time that women in the industry were recognised – actors, writers, directors.”

It’s interesting – the same woman who earlier admitted she didn’t think she was “very articulate”, who gets “muddled up with words”, and “nervous” with herself is on a focused, eloquent and expressive roll.

Sarah Greene just about stops for breath. Change is afoot, then?

“There’s a definite change, alright.

You can sense it.”

BOOKS “My favourite book in the world is My Little Book of Mindfulness.

I have it in my bag, and look at an excerpt every day. Favourite book of all time? The Farm by Tom Rob Smith – I read it in 24 hours, just couldn’t put it down.”

MUSIC “I’m big into Kwabs – love them! The soundtrack to Dirty Dancing is a favourite, as are Otis Redding, Stevie Wonder, soul music, and EDM (electronic dance music).”

LOCATION “I was in a film called Love and Savagery, part of which was set in Newfoundland – which is the most bizarre, loveliest place that is so Irish it’s amazing. At first I thought they were making fun out of my accent, but they’re all Irish. It’s like walking around Dingle – except when you open your curtains, you see icebergs.”

RTÉ

Against type – Sarah Greene in RTÉ’s Rebellion.

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PEOPLE | THEATRE FEST

The Actress WHO Clare Dunne WHAT A Midsummer Night’s

Dream, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, September 28 to October 1 For theatre fans who like their Shakespeare on the highly caffeinated side, look no further than an ambitious new take on A Midsummer Night’s Dream, which boasts superhero costumes and a live band playing Barry White and the Ramones. For actress Clare Dunne, this UK co-production between Lyric Hammersmith and Filter Theatre is a show to savour.

“Brace yourself for a great night out. I play Helena, who’s infatuated with Demetrius and spends most of the play chasing him. She goes on a journey of discovery and learns a lot about herself; plus she ends up in a food fight, because all good love stories need a good food fight!”

Dunne is no stranger to novel takes on Shakespeare, having starred in gender-bending productions of Julius Caesar and Henry IV at the Donmar Warehouse under director Phyllida Lloyd (The Iron Lady, Mamma Mia!).

“The part that broke the mould for me was Prince Hal in Henry IV because, in terms of range, he’s second only to Hamlet. Mind you if someone asked me to play Hamlet … or Macbeth,” she laughs. “Greedy, so I am.”

She is also frequently humbled. To prepare for her role as a female fighter pilot in George Brant’s Grounded, at last year’s Dublin Fringe Festival, she “met real air force pilots and army personnel, and felt very honoured.

The more I act out heroes onstage, the more I meet real life ones and that’s the most life-affirming thing. It’s humbling when they share stories with me. I feel stupidly lucky to do what I do.”

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Scene SETTERS

With the curtain set to rise on the Dublin Theatre Festival, the city’s theatrical insiders are all aflutter for opening night.

WORDS DARAGH REDDIN PHOTOGRAPHS DOREEN KILFEATHER

I

t might be Europe’s oldest annual celebration of drama but the dynamic, wide-ranging programme for the 2016 Dublin Theatre Festival this September 29 to October 16 (dublintheatrefestival. com) is anything but outmoded.

Its artistic director Willie White – taking the reins for his sixth consecutive year – is particularly excited about the programme’s new Irish drama offerings, and counts ambitious multimedia work It’s Not Over as a potential highlight.

“In this show,” he explains, “the adventurous THEATREclub offer their response to the themes of Sean O’Casey’s The Plough and the Stars, taking a jaundiced look back at the violent half century since the 50th anniversary of the Easter Rising in 1966. It’ll be an epic performance that stretches over four hours and features live music and explosions.”

Elsewhere, two playwrights shed

fresh light on the hoary old subject of the dysfunctional Irish family.

Meadhbh McHugh makes her debut for Galway’s venerated theatre company Druid with Helen & I, which, White explains, “portrays the tangled relationship between two sisters drawn back to their childhood home by a dying father”.

Meanwhile, veteran playwright Frank McGuinness’ Donegal is set in his native county and, says White, “celebrates the North West’s rich musical tradition in a drama about a country music matriarch whose star is fading”.

Mozart’s Don Giovanni will be given a brash new makeover courtesy of Opera Theatre Company, the RTÉ Concert Orchestra and translator Roddy Doyle, who re-imagines the timeless tale of the incorrigible libertine (played by Welsh baritone David Kempster) from a uniquely Irish perspective. And if Don Giovanni via Dublin seems like an intriguing

prospect, how about Swan Lake set in rural Ireland? Michael Keegan-Dolan’s adaptation of Tchaikovsky’s beloved ballet, featuring the peerless Mikel Murfi, promises to captivate audiences with its offbeat retelling.

Two Irish Nobel laureates find their work adapted for stage as part of this year’s festivities. The Circus Animals’ Desertion, based on the titular poem, is a dance performance piece that draws on extracts from WB Yeats’ plays and poetry; while First Love, based on the short story by Samuel Beckett, features Ireland’s foremost Beckett interpreter Barry McGovern, directed by Michael Colgan, as a vagrant mulling over life and loss in oblique and lyrical fashion.

But if Beckett’s humour is a little too morose for your liking, rest assured there is definitely something to cater to every taste at this year’s festival. The only dilemma is choosing where to begin ...

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People | Theatre Fest

The Renaissance Man WHO Raymond Scannell WHAT Death at Intervals, Smock

Alley Theatre, October 4-8 On his website, Raymond Scannell refers to himself as a “multidisciplinary arts practitioner”.

If this sounds like the CV of someone who hasn’t decided quite where their talents lie, make no mistake: Scannell is a dab hand at all facets: music, writing, design and performance.

“I’ve been involved in theatre since I was studying arts at University College Cork. It wasn’t so much that I had any grand ambitions to be involved in everything but, because we were always short of resources, we’d chip in. For one production I might be painting the set, on another I’d be acting or playing music.”

Since then, Scannell has been successfully juggling his talents – sometimes in a single show, as evident in Death at Intervals, an adaptation of

the magic realist novel by Portuguese author José Saramago, for which Scannell wrote the music and also performs.

In this striking two-hander, Death (played by Olwen Fouéré) has Scannell’s hapless musician in her crosshairs. “Saramago imagines a world where death no longer exists and where everyone is, at first, celebrating the fact. But characters begin to realise that death has a purpose and that you don’t really start living until you face the fact that one day you’re going to pass away. It sounds morose but it’s very playful.”

Scannell's next script will be inspired by Dublin tour buses. “I started thinking about how they offer a skewed view of the city. You could be travelling through a major landmark in an area that’s socially disadvantaged and really struggling.

My character will offer a perspective on these two very different worlds.”

The Costume Designer WHO Saileóg O’Halloran WHAT The Seagull, Gaiety Theatre, October 5-16 The term “costume designer” might conjure up a bohemian clique that’s difficult to breach, but for Dubliner Saileóg O’Halloran, who is currently casting a critical eye over fabrics for a production of Chekhov’s The Seagull, a can-do attitude and a love of fashion was enough to secure her a place in the industry.

This is not O’Halloran’s first foray into Chekhov. For last year’s Dublin Theatre Festival, she designed costumes for Chekhov’s First Play, a freewheeling adaptation of the playwright’s early work, Platanov. However, for this production she’ll be steering clear of ushankas and corseted blouses. “With Chekhov’s First Play, each costume had to be period specific, whereas this time it’s going to be a more contemporary staging, a lot less focused on the traditional ‘Chekhovian’ look and more on finding a modern-day equivalent.”

As well as being an in-demand designer for stage, TV and film, O’Halloran co-directs Popical Island, a Dublin-based “band collective” that she first got involved with while a member of the altpop outfit Tieranniesaur. “Rather than signing bands, we’re a group of friends and like-minded musicians who come together to play gigs and release music.” And what about O’Halloran’s ambitions as a designer? “Well, I’d really like to work with Tilda Swinton and Róisín Murphy,” she smiles. Just watch this space.

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People | Theatre Fest

The Director WHO Annie Ryan WHAT The Seagull, Gaiety Theatre,

October 5-16 As founder of The Corn Exchange, the innovative, Dublin-based company that frequently draws on the theatre form commedia dell’arte, Chicago-born Annie Ryan is anything but risk averse. For more than 20 years The Corn Exchange has been at the forefront of Irish theatre, fashioning a series of uncompromising productions.

Whether helming a show told entirely through mime (Man of Valour), creating offbeat interpretations of iconic plays (Cat on a Hot Tin Roof) or shaping stage adaptations of difficult novels (Lolita), it seems no challenge is too daunting for Ryan and her team. “Well, we don’t set out to torture ourselves,” Ryan laughs when I ask why she seems to be drawn to certain kinds of projects. “But I do enjoy taking a gamble and am drawn to work that ... might seem to resist adaptation. The great thing about working as part of a team that’s so open to ideas is that you can make an audacious proposal in an environment that nurtures risk.”

For this year’s festival, Ryan is directing Chekhov’s The Seagull, a group portrait of lovelorn artists holed up in the Russian countryside, in a new adaptation devised with partner Michael West. “During the casting process, I was thinking about how the play could map onto us in the here and now, and I came upon the idea that Konstantin, the tortured young writer, could be a girl [played

by Jane McGrath]. It’s a bit of a gamble – but I think it will deepen the sense of repression and betrayal for the other characters.

“The Seagull was written 120 years ago and is the first of what we think of as a modern play. It remains deeply relevant and feels remarkably fresh.”

The Seagull will see The Corn Exchange return to the Gaiety for the first time since their 2012 adaptation of James Joyce’s Dubliners. “The stakes are higher now,” Ryan says. “Dubliners ran for just four days and this time round we’ll be there for nearly two weeks.” Like all opportunities that have come Ryan’s way, you get the sense it’s one she’ll embrace wholeheartedly.

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The Choreographer WHO Michael Keegan-Dolan WHAT Swan Lake/Loch na hEala,

O’Reilly Theatre, September 29 to October 9 For almost 30 years Michael KeeganDolan has been a choreographer, dancer and theatre maker who has rewritten the rulebook. With former company Fabulous Beast, his reworking of Giselle centred on a line-dancing teacher in the Irish midlands, while boomtime Ireland’s shoddy moral foundations were exposed in the award-winning The Bull, an audacious interpretation of Irish legend The Táin.

Keegan-Dolan, who was born in Dublin but lives in his father’s ancestral home in Co Longford, will toy with both the modern and the mythological in a new production of Swan Lake, also set in rural Ireland.

“The midlands can get a hard time and are sometimes dismissed as a backwater but, in many respects, it’s a more interesting and authentic area than some of the welltrodden parts of the Irish countryside to which tourists flock.”

Keegan-Dolan’s interest in dance began at an early age. As a teenager he traded rugby for dance when he won a scholarship to study at the Central School of Ballet in London. His desire to start his own company was born from his frustration with classical ballet – “I now think it’s a very strange representation of humanity” – and resulted in his founding the awardgarlanded Fabulous Beast. “Without any great degree of logic or forward planning I just pursued what felt right. Now I’m 47 and still doing it.” Expect to see his name in lights for many more decades to come.

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PEOPLE | THEATRE FEST

The Production Designer WHO Owen Boss WHAT These Rooms, 85/86 Upper Dorset Street,

September 27 to October 16

“On the final evening of the 1916 Rising, British troops entered, smashed and tunnelled their way through the walls of houses on North King Street and, over the course of approximately 12 hours, locked the women inside small rooms while proceeding to execute 15 men. None of the victims had any connection whatsoever with the insurrection.” Owen Boss, co-founder of ANU Productions, is explaining the inspiration behind These Rooms, a new multidisciplinary show that draws on 38 first-person testimonies from the women involved in this bleak footnote to the Easter Rebellion.

The piece, a collaboration with celebrated dance theatre company CoisCéim, will be staged in a Georgian building on Dublin’s Dorset Street, and interrogates questions of “cultural trauma, belonging and dispossession”; and as such, it’s very much of a piece with ANU’s uncompromising,

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socially-conscious productions to date. After all, this is a company whose CV includes a quartet of critically acclaimed, site-specific plays that tackled the sorry social history of Dublin’s north inner city.

Boss is keen to point out that shy and retiring theatre-goers have nothing to fear from stepping outside their comfort zones with These Rooms. “This form of drama can be exciting, invigorating and ultimately rewarding. The audience is paramount because they activate the work and are situated at the very centre of it. With regard to this, we treasure, mind and care for our audience, from the ones that wish to stand back and just observe to the ones that throw themselves into the work with gusto. The beauty of the work is that the presence of each individual person really matters.”

Of course, producing shows outside the cosy confines of a traditional theatre space is not without its hiccups. “We’ve seen it all during performances,” Boss laughs. “But one of the strangest experiences yet has probably been the sight of a group of young people joyriding a cherry picker down a Dublin street during an outdoor show.

Inner city Dublin at its most beautifully surreal!”

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DESTINATION | BELFAST

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Guiding Lights For a remote getaway with a difference, follow the beautiful blaze of Ireland’s historic lighthouses.

WORDS YVONNE GORDON PHOTOGRAPHS PIOTR DYBOWSKI

Bee seen – the striped St John’s Lighthouse in Co Down is impossible to miss.

DESTINATION | IRISH LIGHTHOUSES

T

he light from the full moon shines across the bay, reflecting on the water.

It’s not long after sunset and both sea and sky have taken on a rich blue, the land and the water interrupted only by a thin strip of twinkling yellow lights on the horizon. There are stars in the sky and a small green beacon flashes out in the bay – but the real star is the lighthouse beam from the white tower. Every three seconds, a silent, slow, flash, flash, flash.

From the horizon, other lighthouses send bursts of light back across the water to my lighthouse, as if in response. I say “my lighthouse” because I’m staying at Blackhead Lighthouse in Co Antrim, in the former lightkeeper’s house. There are uninterrupted views across the open sea and to Belfast Lough. The only sounds are the lapping of water from far below the cliff, the cries of seabirds and a hum from a distant road.

Opening the shutters in the morning, the view is of a clear blue sea and sky and, in the front garden, a 56 |

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Bright isles – Blackhead Lighthouse keeps watch over the Antrim coastline.

beautiful white lighthouse tower with its ornate glass lantern divided into curved diamond panes. This lighthouse has been guiding ships in and out of Belfast Lough since 1902. Inside, the house is cosy, with an open fireplace, book shelves, old lamps and furniture, similar to how it would have been when the lighthouse keepers lived here with their families until 1975.

It’s tempting to take a book and sit in the long grass of the cliff for the day in the sunshine, but there’s too much to explore. Two white walls line the cliff path leading down to the sea, where there’s a rocky shore, caves and busy seabirds. Dolphins and minke whales are often spotted here.

Nearby, The Gobbins cliff path opened in 1902 – a series of bridges and steps allowing early railway visitors to experience the sea stacks and caves. Once more popular than the Giant’s Causeway, the path fell into disrepair in the 1950s but reopened last year. Further south on Islandmagee, the tiny Portmuck Harbour is popular with swimmers, kayakers and anglers.

Top, Libby Carton of Kinnegar Brewing in Co Donegal and, right, a mouth-watering Billy Andys platter.

Clockwise from top left, essential reading in St John's Point Lighthouse; binoculars at the ready; lightkeeper Henry Henvey checking the fog machine at St John's Point; watchdog at Wicklow Lighthouse; Hannah Sweeney of Fanad Lighthouse; Henry's tools at St John's Point Lighthouse; Luke Daly enjoying the waves with Adventure One; maritime paraphernalia at Blackhead Lighthouse.

EAT AT …

TRADITIONAL PUB If you’re staying at Blackhead, check out Billy Andys, a 19th-century pub near Glenoe, between Larne and Carrickfergus in Co Antrim. It has a tiny snug, peat fire and a 100-seat restaurant with locally sourced meat and seafood. Try the braised beef or a platter of rare-breed pork. (Glenoe, Co Antrim, +44 28 2827 0648; billyandys.com) CRAFT BEER On the Fanad peninsula, the award-winning microbrewery Kinnegar Brewing and Scarpello & Co have combined forces at The Tap Room, which serves delicious stone-baked pizzas from an outdoor wood-fired oven, accompanied by Kinnegar’s craft beer on tap. Outdoor or indoor dining is relaxed here, in the stunning setting of Rathmullan House.

(Rathmullan, Co Donegal, 074 915 8188; rathmullanhouse.com/the-tap-room) FINE DINING After a visit to Hook Head, drop over to Dunbrody Country House, run by well-known TV chef Kevin Dundon and his wife Catherine.

Dinner is €65 per person. Or tuck into fish ‘n’ chips at on-site The Local pub from €12.50 with Dunbrody’s own craft beer. B&B also available.

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DESTINATION | IRISH LIGHTHOUSES

SMART TIPS If you’re looking to explore Co Wexford, Hook Head B&B makes for a warmlywelcoming base thanks to its hostess with the mostess, Anne. B&B from €30 per person per night. (Broomhill, Fethard- on-Sea, Co Wexford, 086 0897915 ; email hookheadbandb@gmail .com)

Above, The Gobbins tour guide Ginny Murray. St John’s Lighthouse is a stunner both inside and out, right.

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GRAHAM CORCORAN

Ireland has some of the best waves in the world. Luke Daly of Adventure One Surf on Fanad Head, gives surfing lessons for all levels.

(Fanad, Co Donegal, 087 628 5565 ; adventureone.net)

“William McClelland, a well-known smuggler, lived here in the 1700s,” says Gobbins guide Ginny Murray.

“The coastguard built their cottages next door – to keep an eye on him.”

I leave the tales of smugglers and go south, to St John’s Point in Co Down, where the lighthouse is a striking yellow and black striped 40-metre tower – Ireland’s tallest onshore lighthouse. Former lightkeeper Henry Henvey, 82, still lives in a house here. He travelled the world as a ship’s carpenter before dropping anchor.

“We used to go up the tower in four-hour watches.

We logged the weather, cloud formation, wind direction, barometer and thermometer readings,” he says, telling how they also used to wind up the lighthouse’s clockwork mechanism every hour.

Henry keeps the compressed air fog signal in pristine condition, proudly running it once a month, though I later learn the foghorn’s nickname – Moaning Minnie.

The area around St John’s has everything for nature lovers: beaches, the Mourne Mountains and forest parks

4 BEST LIGHTHOUSE VISITOR CENTRES

1 Wicklow Head Lighthouse tucked into the cliffs, above, and Fanad from afar, right.

Top right, Hook Head tour guide Liam Colfer and bottom right, walking and talking guide, Sean Mullan.

with walking, mountain biking and horse-riding trails. It’s also a golfer’s paradise with Royal County Down among the top courses in the area.

Heading northwest to Co Donegal, the Fanad peninsula is one of Ireland’s most northerly headlands. At Fanad Head Lighthouse, I stay in one of the former lightkeeper’s houses to get a taste of what life was like here. The houses and tower are set on a rocky outcrop, with panoramic views across the sea and a remote but cosy feeling. Although it’s calm when I visit, a lightning storm out to sea is a reminder that this exposed headland is at the mercy of the powerful Atlantic.

Local walking guide Sean Mullan (walktalkireland. com) shows me where the sea created the magnificent Great Pollet Sea Arch. “Lough Swilly is called

Hook Lighthouse in Co Wexford is the world’s oldest lighthouse – find out about its 800-year history on a tour of the impressive tower and watchroom, including ghostly holograms, plus a café and picnic areas. (Adults €6, child €3.50, 051 397 055; hookheritage.ie)

2

On a tour of Ballycotton Lighthouse in Co Cork, travel out to the tiny island by boat, to see the black lighthouse tower as well as where the lightkeepers lived and worked – ask about the goats that the lightkeepers kept on the island. (Tour, adults €20, child €10, 021 464 6875; greatlighthouses.com)

3

Valentia Lighthouse in Co Kerry is another lighthouse with an interesting history, built on the site of a 17th-century fort and warding off many invaders, as well as the powerful Atlantic Ocean forces. (Adults €5, children €2.50, 066 947 6985; greatlighthouses.com)

4

Loop Head Lighthouse in Co Clare is at the end of the stunning Loop peninsula, with plenty of opportunities for spotting whales and seals, as well as lots of seabirds. You can either tour the lighthouse. (Adults €5, children €2) or stay overnight: three days from €437.

(01 670 4733; greatlighthouses.com)

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DESTINATION | IRISH LIGHTHOUSES

SLEEP AT …

Anticlockwise from top right, an airy Wicklow Lighthouse bedroom; a windswept Hook Head; strong currents at Ballyhiernan Bay beach; Barry Phelan has a lightbulb moment at St John’s Point Lighthouse.

‘the lake of shadows’,” he adds, telling how St Colmcille once killed a monster in the sea lough, which runs between here and Inishowen.

Wicklow Head Lighthouse on the east coast is one of the few towers you can stay in, with each room on a different floor. During my stay, I walk to a quiet cove and spot a seal with her pups. Down at the working lighthouse, there are seagulls, cormorants and a pair of nesting peregrine falcons. Locals often spot basking sharks.

My final visit is a tour of Hook Lighthouse in Co Wexford, the world’s oldest intact operational lighthouse.

The lighthouse beam has lit the way for passing sailors for 800 years; there are holograms of earls and tales of monks keeping the beacon alight, plus paraphernalia, such as a compass and Morse code lamp, in the watchroom.

Exploring or staying in lighthouses is not only the ultimate getaway, but a chance to connect with the sea and sea life, learn about a different way of life for those who worked beside the sea and, literally, get a new perspective on the island of Ireland.

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MARITIME At the start of the Causeway Coastal Route and just a half hour from Belfast, Blackhead Lighthouse is a great setting for coastal walks. The old-style furnishings of the lightkeepers’ houses add plenty of character. There are three different houses, sleeping up to seven people.

Three nights self-catering from €432.

(Whitehead, Co Antrim, 01 670 4733; greatlighthouses.com) NATURE The St John’s Point Lighthouse in Co Down has two lightkeepers’ cottages to stay in (each sleeps four) and is great for exploring Strangford Lough, the Mourne Mountains or the early Christian church in Killough. Nearby beaches include Rossglass and blue flag Tyrella beach. Three nights from €538. (Killough, Co Down, 01 670 4733; greatlighthouses.com) REMOTE Fanad Head Lighthouse on the Fanad peninsula is on the Wild Atlantic Way and in the Gaeltacht area.

It has three cottages, sleeping from two up to four people. Self-catering, from €237 for a two-night stay. You can also tour the lighthouse (adults €8, children €5). (Fanad peninsula, 087 647 0917; greatlighthouses.com) ROMANTIC Built in 1781, the octagonal stone tower at Wicklow Head Lighthouse has sea views on three sides, with plenty of window seats to enjoy the views. There’s a cosy sitting room and there are 109 steps up to the kitchen on the top floor. Sleeps four, three nights from €614. (Dunbur Head, Co Wicklow, 01 670 4733; greatlighthouses.com)

DESTINATION | LONDON

On a victory roll – Rosina Thomas from The Painted Lady. Opposite, a rough and ready welcome to Redchurch Street.

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RedALERT

London has an embarrassment of shopping hubs, but Redchurch Street in Shoreditch cannot be beaten for variety and sass.

WORDS MARIE KELLY PHOTOGRAPHS STEVE RYAN

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DESTINATION | LONDON

Above, Redchurch street art.

Right and below, Marcus Mukasa goes choco loco at Mast Brothers.

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Miranda at The Painted Lady (thepaintedladylondon.com) does a magnificent blow dry, all sleek and glossy. This slightly makeshift salon – where a retro cocktail bar serves as a reception desk, while vintage armchairs, a red-brick chimney breast and tiny galley kitchen make the space feel more like my grandmother’s living room

SMART FLIERS from AER LINGUS offers multiple flights to ast Belf and non Dublin, Cork, Shan flights from LON DON HEATHROW and daily WICK. GAT DON LON to ck Kno and lin Dub

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than a beauty parlour in the heart of one of the world’s fashion capitals – embodies the grit-meets-glam, old-versus-new feel of London’s dynamic new shopping district.

Redchurch Street in Shoreditch may not have the polish of Bond Street, the exhaustive choice of Oxford Street, or the old-fashioned glamour of Chelsea, but it has the character and craftsmanship that today’s fashion-conscious shopper craves. In the past five years, this half-kilometre stretch near East London’s Hackney has been significantly smartened up by an influx of entrepreneurial creatives looking for the next hot property, in a city where every bit of “affordable” real estate is quickly gobbled up by hungry investors. Despite this

gentrification, the scenery remains largely industrial. Scaffolding, graffiti and tatty Georgian façades are as familiar sights on Redchurch Street as the cool, contemporary floorto-ceiling glass exterior of artisan chocolate makers the Mast Brothers (mastbrothers.com), whose hot sweet scent makes a striking contrast to the less-than-savoury smells that would have once emanated from the squalor of what was a slum for centuries.

Today, Redchurch Street is where the wealthy City meets the gritty East End. It’s a stone’s throw from Brick Lane and its Bangladeshi curry houses, Indian sari stores and treasure-cum-trash market stalls, and a brisk ten-minute walk from the dynamism of Liverpool Street.

It’s not surprising then that the

Clockwise from below, the rustic larder of Pizza East; Anthea Tucker afternoon tea-ing at Modern Society; classy kedgeree at Albion, and a meaty lunch at Vinoteca.

EAT AT …

LIVELY Pizza East occupies a former tea building on the corner of Shoreditch High Street and is pretty reflective of the surrounding area – noisy, busy and full of concrete. But this industrialstyle restaurant serves up an excellent pizza, and even the salads, which can often be a major letdown in pizzerias, are superb. Off-peak I could really take to Pizza East, but on a bustling Thursday evening, I ate and ran. Good thing they have American-style boxes for leftovers. (56 Shoreditch High Street, +44 20 7729 1888; pizzaeast.com)

URBAN It’s pretty exhilarating when something as mundane as a cherry tomato gets your tastebuds racing. Vinoteca is an Italian restaurant not in the East End but in the heart of Soho that cooks simple, seasonal ingredients – to perfection. A modest but considered menu and an extensive wine list in a loft-style setting (exposed brick, pendant light bulbs and an oversized chalk blackboard) make for a quintessential London dining experience. (53-55 Beak Street, +44 20 3544 7411; vinoteca.co.uk)

RUSTIC In Notting Hill, almost entirely concealed behind its own lush, green exterior, The Shed sits rather bravely alone (culinarily speaking) on a quiet residential side street.

Having eaten there, I can understand why it doesn’t need to rely on passing footfall. Word of food this good is bound to get out.

The tapas-style menu with a British twist served on barrel tables in an unexpectedly rustic environment is an absolute joy. (122 Palace Gardens Terrace, +44 20 7229 4024; theshed-restaurant.com) AERLINGUS.COM |

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The denim industry at work in Nudie Jeans, right, where Felicity Harbourne, far right, nips and tucks.

Below, the grit-meetsglam of Redchurch Street. Opposite page, Jessica Louise-Marie at Albion, left, and, far right, the plush designs of Monologue boutique.

street’s clientele is as diverse as the neighbourhood is eclectic.

Young couples wearing avantgarde separates from Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons browse pop-up shops such as Anna Walker London (annawalkerlondon.com) for its handcrafted, vegetable-tanned leather goods, The Basics Store (thebasicsstore.com), a design collective of jewellers, emerging fashion designers and illustrators, and MK2UK (mk2uk.com), a concept store filled with alternative fashions from the likes of Swedish designer Simon Ekrelius and British-based Taeseok Kang.

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devoted to pop-ups are booked out for the remainder of this year.

Well-to-do women decked out in an artful mix of Margaret Howell and Cos meet for coffee in the chic café-cum-grocers Albion (various locations; albion-uk.london) before picking up an Isabel Marant sweater at Aimé (aimelondon.com) and inspecting the latest handpicked homewares and fashion accessories at contemporary concept store Monologue (monologuelondon. com). Sharp-suited businessmen and trendy media types frequent Parisian store A.P.C. (apc.fr) picking up high-quality, minimalist basics, and Present (present-london.com) on nearby Shoreditch High Street for heritage brands and Japanese streetwear. In amongst these

smart professionals float the cool, urban, skateboard kids checking out the latest arrivals at Nudie Jeans Repair Shop (nudiejeans. com), a warehouse-style space with scaffolding-like shelves that sells and mends jeans (there’s a threeweek waiting list for repairs).

At the risk of making Redchurch Street sound a little too chi-chi, dishevelled drifters and downand-outs remain alongside those discerning dressers. London is a city of extremes and nowhere is this better reflected than here.

The opening of Shoreditch House (shoreditchhouse.com) on Ebor Street nine years ago, followed by the Terence Conran-designed Boundary hotel, restaurant, café and deli (boundary.london),

SLEEP AT … collaborate – it even houses a sound studio. Inside, modern art and Art Deco furniture sit seamlessly alongside each other in a space that is beautifully curated and considered. And when the cocktail waiter knocked on my door (as he does every room from 6.30pm on), I couldn’t but say yes. Double rooms from £220. (24 Endell Street, +44 20 7170 9100; thehospitalclub.com)

COOL On the corner of an energetic side street in Covent Garden sits The Hospital Club, above. Founded 12 years ago by Dave “Eurythmics” Stewart, this private members’ club and guesthouse offers a creative hub for industry insiders to connect and

MODERN CLASSIC Converted from five Victorian houses, and just one minute’s walk from Notting Hill tube station, pretty, sash-windowed The Laslett offers a characterful base from which to explore this upmarket borough. Local artists’ work lines the corridors, while an early 20th-century

pair of ladies’ satin shoes found beneath the floorboards during the hotel’s renovation sit framed inside the entry hall. Double rooms from £169.

(8 Pembridge Gardens, +44 20 7792 6688; living-rooms.co.uk) ARTY The rooms at The Zetter in St John’s Square, Clerkenwell, may be small, but they’re perfectly formed and cleverly decorated with original art, shag pile rugs and 1950s leather chairs.

Hot-water bottles and well-worn paperbacks inject home-from-home comfort, while The Zetter’s sister hotel, The Zetter Townhouse, has one of the best cocktail bars in the city. Double rooms from £217. (86-88 Clerkenwell Road, +44 20 7324 4444; thezetter.com) AERLINGUS.COM |

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MUST-DOS

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GEORGIA O’KEEFFE 1887-1986 JIMSON WEED/WHITE FLOWER NO. 1 1932 / CRYSTAL BRIDGES MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART, ARKANSAS, USA / PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD C. ROBISON III © 2016 GEORGIA O'KEEFFE MUSEUM/DACS, LONDON

One hundred works by iconic American artist Georgia O’Keeffe – including Jimson Weed/White Flower No. 1, the most expensive artwork by a female artist ever sold at auction, left – runs at the Tate Modern until October 30. Afterwards, walk along the Thames until you reach Borough Market (boroughmarket.org.uk) and stock up on freshly baked breads, artisan cheeses and exotic spices. There’s no better way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

(Bankside, +44 20 7887 8888; tate.org.uk)

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If your interests lie in fashion, art or design, visit Kensington’s Victoria & Albert Museum. It was awarded “Museum of the Year 2016” and has a permanent collection of more than 2.3 million objects dating back over the past 5,000 years.

Current exhibition Undressed:

SMART TIPS GLOBAL LOCAL Shoreditch hosts its own Notting Hill-style shindig on September 11 – Hackney One Carnival, where energetic dancers and young musicians shimmy through the streets. hackney.gov.uk GLA ZED LOOKS This September 17-25 , Redchurch Street’s Elementary Store presents All That is Broken is not Lost, a showcase of beautiful ceramics and jewellery

by Japanese artist Reiko Kaneko, who uses the kintsugi technique of accentuating cracks and flaws with lacquer and gold. elementarystore.co.uk

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instigated this formerly shabby street’s fashionable revival. Now these landmark establishments must compete with the trendy tea shops, indie eateries and ultra-cool coffee houses that are doing a brisk trade.

It’s a dead heat between whether Redchurch is a better place to pick up the latest fashion musthave or to try out the latest food trend. Fortunately, many of the spots here allow you to do both.

Modern Society (themodernsociety. com), for instance, houses a beautifully curated mix of high-end and emerging fashion designers (including Isa Arfen, FRAME Denim and Maiyet), luxury products from candles to coasters, as well as a cute little coffee bar that serves Assembly Coffee and a selection

A Brief History of Underwear (until March 12, 2017) is exactly what it says on the tin, and if you enjoy looking to the past, pop into Barts (barts-london.com) afterward for a truly glamorous, 1920s-themed dining experience. Plus, they make a killer cocktail. (Cromwell Road, +44 20 7942 2000; vam.ac.uk)

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Even the busiest man on the planet, President Barack Obama, thought it worth squeezing in a performance at Shakespeare at The Globe to mark the 400th anniversary of the Bard’s death. Watching Shakespeare performed in a reconstructed Elizabethan-style open-air theatre is an amazing experience, and this month you can choose from A Midsummer Night’s Dream until September 11 and Macbeth until October 1. (21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, +44 20 7902 1400; shakespearesglobe.com)

of moreish brunch dishes (try the avocado toast ... delicious).

However the ever-expanding plethora of independent boutiques and acclaimed restaurants and the calibre of customer they’re attracting have not gone unnoticed by mainstream retailers. Sweaty Betty, Versus, Whistles Menswear (the brand’s first dedicated menswear store), Aubin & Wills and J. Crew Menswear each has a presence on or just off Redchurch Street, but it’s a subtle one. Their stores are discreet – much more boutique than malllike. And that is the appeal of this unlikely fashion hot spot. There’s nothing homogenised or generic about Redchurch Street. Let’s hope a certain coffee chain doesn’t get wind of it ...

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SMART EDIT | BEER GARDENS

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You say, we say ...

BEST BEER GARDENS

for the last days of summer Our edit of your favourite outdoor idylls.

ontrary to its name, Oktoberfest commonly starts in September across the globe. Dubious “buxom wench” attire aside, these Bavarian jamborees are must-visits for fans of beer, würstl (sausages), brazen (pretzels), sauerkraut and good old-fashioned oompah. And despite its capacity for beer-goggled excess, many Oktoberfests boast children’s funfairs. Bavaria’s best-known export began in 1810 when Munich citizens were invited to the gargantuan wedding of Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese of SachsenHildburghausen. Of course, these days we don’t have to wait for Oktoberfest to enjoy an outdoor tipple. Some beer gardens have rolling lawns, others are urban oases with skyline vistas. So, wherever you are and whatever your poison, raise a stein to these brilliant beer gardens. Sláinte! Salut!

Santé! Prost! Cin Cin! Cheers!

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The Standard, LA Atop the ultra sleek Standard hotel you’ll find strudels and pretzels served against the unmistakable backdrop of Downtown LA. Pull up a yellow stool and a stein at this rooftop biergarten on a Thursday evening (Sunset Rooftop Jazz) or go all-out LA by joining a rooftop yoga session on a Saturday morning. Either way, it’s a great spot from which to see the city in all its hazy glory. standardhotels.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.

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The Eagle, London This family-friendly haven in Shepherd’s Bush is just ten minutes’ walk from the Ravenscourt Park tube. Beanbags, comfy outdoor seating, an excellent wine menu, plus a barbecue and really great grub means you could spend breakfast, lunch and dinner at this West London oasis. geronimo-inns.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies multiple times daily from Dublin, Belfast, Cork and Shannon to London Heathrow, and from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.

3 The People’s Park Tavern, London While the façade is traditional, an onsite brewery – producing the very quaffable People’s Pint – makes this London stalwart a very modern boozer. There’s also a taproom with 70 international beers, an art gallery, a cocktail bar

and a beer garden considered to be among London’s best. Backing onto the beautiful Victoria park, the outdoor seating area is covered in the winter so you can beer and dine al fresco all year round. peoplesparktavern.pub

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CHRISTOF R. SCHMIDT PHOTOGRAPHY

SMART EDIT | BEER GARDENS

4 Rimini Bar, Zurich Stretched along the length of the 17th century Schanzengraben River Pool – a moat-turned-daytime swimming spot exclusive to men, oddly – Zurich’s Rimini Bar opens as a cool outdoor drinks area at night (to both men and women, thankfully). Surrounded by the former Zurich Botanical Gardens, you’ll be hard pressed to find a watering hole as peculiar (or stunning). rimini.ch

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Zurich daily.

The Yard at Mission Rock, San Francisco A West Coast pop-up success story, The Yard at Mission Rock is open allyear-round. A purpose-built “village” of repurposed shipping containers, it’s as lively as it is communityminded, hosting live music, film screenings and talks. It’s located in the San Francisco Giants parking lot in Mission Rock, one of SF’s hippest ‘hoods. And what of its beer? Only Anchor Brewing’s finest, which has been creating sweet nectar since the Gold Rush. theyardsf.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.

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SMART EDIT | BEER GARDENS

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The Pavilion Bar, Dublin When the sun beats down on Ireland’s capital, students (and alumni) throng to ‘The Pav’ at Trinity College Dublin to soak up the sunshine. Pick up a beer and a pizza and sit out on the terrace or do as the natives do: throw down a jacket on the green and let that end-of-term feeling wash over you.

An Púcán, Galway

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This is hotly recommended on Twitter so don’t be deceived by the oldfashioned surrounds in the front bar; fight your way to the back and you’ll discover not only another bar and live music area but a Tardis-like walled garden with its own grassy knolls, wooden decking and dinky bird boxes. A secret spot in the heart of the Tribal city. anpucan.ie

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Café am Neuen See, Berlin Once upon a time, Berlin’s Tiergarten provided the hunting grounds for Prussian aristocracy – and was later deforested to provide firewood after the Second World War. Long since back to its verdant best, it also houses a mighty fine biergarten, Café am Neuen See. Yes, it’s firmly on the tourist trail; yes, it’s priced accordingly, and yes, it can get mad busy. But once seated overlooking the boating lake, you’ll be so lost in the romance of it all, you won’t care. Share a pretzel, drink up and enjoy. cafeamneuensee.de

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin daily.

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Chinesischer Turm, Munich Pack a picnic, grab some sunscreen and take one of the 7,000 seats surrounding the Chinese Tower in Munich’s Englischer Garten.

Completed in 1790 as an observation deck, the 25-metre-high timber pagoda has quite the history. Burnt to the ground during the Second World War, it reopened in 1952 and now serves as a must-see drinking hole centrepiece for both tourists and locals alike.

LUIS GERVASI

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OVER TO YOU

Hofbräukeller, Munich

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In the next issue we’re compiling your Top Ten Cocktail Bars at Aer Lingus destinations. Have your say – and post pics – @CARAMagazine, using the hashtag #CaraYSWS.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Munich twice daily, and from Cork twice weekly.

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S. MUELLER

Nestled within the toy-town-esque Haidhausen district – home to the lively Wiener Platz market – Munich’s Hofbräukeller is a schön spot for afternoon-to-evening escapades.

It is also perfect for parents in need of some midday mum and dad time, thanks to its supervised playground. Good food, good beer and a sun-dappled good time. Prost! hofbraeukeller.de

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CITY BREAK | MURCIA

A TOWERING SUCCESS Want good food, good culture – and a place where your teenage kids won’t roll their eyes? Look no further than Spain’s handsome capital, Madrid.

WORDS ARLENE HARRIS PHOTOGRAPHS MARK DUGGAN

Grand symmetry – the ostentatious Alfonso XII monument in Buen Retiro Park.

DESTINATION | MADRID

itting on a high stool, soaking up the atmosphere while listening to a rapidfire conversation in Spanish between customer and waiter, it is hard not to break a grin. Waiting for a freshly battered portion of calamari for the kids while munching on a selection of tapas and sipping a chilled glass of Manzanilla, there was nowhere I’d rather have been than in Casa Dani at the Mercado de la Paz (Centro Comercial La Paz, Calle de Ayala 28; mercadolapaz.es).

The Spanish capital is often

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MADRID 11 times weekly.

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overlooked for its more touristy and coastal counterparts, but it has so much of its own to offer. The city has a somewhat genteel air about it and everyone seems far more relaxed than they tend to be in most capital cities – perhaps the heat makes people less inclined to tear around on foot at breakneck speed.

The pace suited me and my family of five just fine.

Eating in restaurants as a five-piece can be an expensive business, particularly as teenage boys have voracious appetites, so I made it our mission to suss out Madrid’s renowned food markets, of which there are plenty. The aforementioned Mercado de La Paz, in the Salamanca neighbourhood, is an upmarket venue offering fresh fish, meat, pastries and vegetables, and whose stalls are punctuated with little cafés and bars producing the most wonderful eats and drinks.

Hamburguesa Nuestra offers a whole new meaning to fast food:

Above, the Monument to Felipe VI in the shadow of the Royal Palace, and below, Marco Gil, a Casa Dani regular.

customers can select their own burgers from the chilled cabinet, which are then prepared to order and brought to your table. We opted for a sharing dish of six tiny burgers and buns with a handful of chips on the side – all delicious.

A little outside the centre but easily reached by metro is Mercado

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DESTINATION | MADRID

de Maravillas (Calle de Bravo Murillo 122; mercadomaravillas.eu), one of the largest municipal markets in Europe, selling every type of food and drink under the Spanish sun.

In the name of research I paired an Americano with a buñuelo – a traditional pastry made of fried dough and filled with cream. No wonder my sons all wanted a bite.

And while many markets are aimed at shoppers looking to take their produce home, the upscale Mercado de San Miguel (Plaza de San Miguel; mercadodesanmiguel.es) – built in 1916 – is almost entirely given over

to eateries for here-and-now scoffing.

It’s a feast for the senses, crowded with tourists, locals and tasty treats as far as the eye can see: cured meats, paella, oysters with cava, tapas, seafood, bread, pastries, fresh juices, vermouth, wine, beer and sherry from all over the country.

No visit to Madrid is complete without sampling some of the delicacies on offer here, but be aware of pickpockets as it is very crowded, as we found to our misfortune – a bag can be snatched in seconds with the perpetrator long gone before you have a chance to respond. So keep

your eyes peeled.

Of course, with great food comes the great need to walk it all off and, luckily, Madrid is also home to a huge number of cultural attractions.

The world-famous Prado, Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia and the Palacio Real are the obvious art institutions, while as a family we visited the Museo Nacional de Cienco y Tecnologia (Museum of Science and Technology, Calle del Pintor Velázquez 5, +34 914 250 919; muncyt.es), Museo Nacional de Antropologia (Museum of Anthropology, Calle de Alfonso

This page, a grandfather and grandson find shade in Buen Retiro Park. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Ocho y Medio’s bruschetta; Sergio Diaz of Mas meat stall in Mercado de San Miguel; the dapper Lori Pele and Pedro Félix; Canary quesadillas at Marieta; Art Deco lines in central Madrid; a Marieta Bloody Mary; street art on Calle de la Cruz.

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EAT AT …

BUZZY Marieta Restaurante is a wonderfully atmospheric restaurant in the smart Salamanca neighbourhood.

Serving a fantastic array of local and international delicacies, including a delicious risotto de arroz negro y tiras de calamari, it seems to be perpetually busy – so either book in advance or “do” brunch, when the menu is equally extensive and reasonably priced.

(Paseo de la Castellana 44, +34 915 757 553; marietamadrid.com) ON-TREND Close to Serrano metro station, Spanish chain Lateral offers a casual dining experience for grazers.

This trendy, minimalistic venue has an extensive range of small, inexpensive but tasty dishes starting at €3, ranging from oxtail stew with creamy mash to burrata with tomato and truffle oil. It’s the perfect spot at which to refresh and revive before hitting the next tapas joint. (Paseo de La Castellana 89, +34 915 613 337; lateral.com) BIBLIOPHILIC Ocho y Medio is renowned for being one of the best bookshops in the city, particularly for anyone interested in film (walls are covered with movie posters and signed pictures of actors). But it is also a top spot for excellent value food and drink.

Grab a table and choose from either the simple à la carte menu (mainly salads and tostadas) or from the threecourse daily special menu priced at €11.

Great atmosphere and great staff – I was brought out three bottles of wine to taste before deciding which one I wanted a glass of (for €2.50). (Calle de Martín de los Heros 11, +34 915 590 628; ochoymedio.es) AERLINGUS.COM |

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SLEEP AT …

ELEGANT The TÓTEM Hotel Madrid is a relatively new boutique hotel in the genteel Salamanca area and just a few minutes’ walk from Serrano metro station.

Surrounded by high-end shops and situated on a verdant side street, this property may be small but it oozes charm, friendliness and comfort. The rooms are dapper and the staff couldn’t be more obliging.

Rooms from €164. (Calle de Hermosilla 23, +34 914 260 035; totem-madrid.com) CLASSY In the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the Museo Lázaro Galdiano (featuring works

by Goya and Bosch) and Museo Nacional de Ciencias Naturales (Natural History Museum) is the Barceló Emperatriz. Modern and plush, this hotel is a welcome refuge from the hot city streets, offering a snazzy lounge bar, a relaxing restaurant, a well-equipped gym and bedrooms, which are spacious, quiet and cool. Rooms from €179.

(Calle de López de Hoyos 4, +34 913 422 490; barceloemperatriz.com) 84 |

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BRIGHT Art lovers will have a lot to commend the NH Hotel Collection Madrid Palacio de Tepa, which is a five-minute walk from the world-famous Prado Museum (Bosch, Goya, Velasquez). Rooms are light and bright – some with vaulted and wooden ceilings thanks to the building’s 19th-century provenance, while Plaza Mayor and Plaza Santa Ana are less than ten minutes away on foot. Rooms from €161. (Calle de San Sebastián 2, +34 913 896 490; nh-collection.com)

Top left, the tranquil TÓTEM Hotel, above, one of the mesmerising exhibits at Museo Nacional de Ciencia y Tecnologia, and below, street jazz musician Romania at Buen Retiro Park.

XII 68, +34 915 306 418; mecd. gob.es) and the Zoo Aquarium (Casa de Campo, +34 902 345 014; zoomadrid.com). If, like us, you intend to pound the pavements, buy a Madrid Card at the start of your trip – see ‘Smart Tips’, page 86.

Despite one member of our party having a fear of heights (ahem), we headed skywards on the Teleférico cable car, which departs close to Rosales station. This is a wonderful way to see the city; when it travels over parkland, you could be forgiven for thinking you are soaring over the Serengeti. The sedate pace of the ride is pleasingly matched by a conveniently located café at the other end where drinks (and in some cases, ice cream) may be pronounced a necessity in order to make the return journey.

Madrid is renowned for intense summer heat so, in the absence of a coastal breeze, visit Botanical Gardens at Plaza de Murillo. The abundant shade afforded by the 30,000 plants and trees in this

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DESTINATION | MADRID

Left, the mistyeyed beauty of the Botanical Gardens, below, chug-a-chugging around the Museo del Ferrocarril, and bottom left, the enthralling flamenco moves of Anabel Alonso at Las Tablas.

eight-hectare estate is perfect for a picnic of fresh morsels purchased at one of the markets, or simply as a nice spot to rest your feet.

As well as being gastronomically, culturally and botanically rich, the city also has a long-established flamenco heritage. Eschewing some of the bigger and more popular venues, we opted to catch a show at

SMART TIPS The Madrid Card offers free entrance to most museums and attractions – and the chance to skip queues, which is a godsend if you’re on a tight schedule. From €47. madridcard.com On the metro, purchasing a 10-trip ticket is the cheapest way to get around as it costs just €12 and one ticket can be used for all the family.

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Las Tablas (lastablasmadrid.com) at Plaza de España. It is small and intimate, seating a maximum of 90 people, and the live music and dance show was astounding – the fancy footwork has to be seen to be believed. With no special effects, visual art or sound props, the onehour performance was truly breathtaking and, I’m not ashamed to say, brought a tear to my eye.

On our whirlwind tour of Madrid, we managed to pack so much into a few days – this is firstly down to ease of access, but also because there really is so much to see. And, most importantly, taste.

MUSEUMS FOR ALL AGES ...

TRANSPORT The Museo del Ferrocarril houses one of the largest collections of historical trains and memorabilia in Europe and is a must for anyone with even a passing interest in railroads. It is pretty impressive and, for those, like me, with three boys in tow, it is the perfect way to while away an afternoon. (Paseo de las Delicias 61, +34 902 228 822; museodelferrocarril.org) NATURAL HISTORY Housed in two separate buildings, the Museo Nacional de Ciencias Naturales is a sizeable

collection of fossils, minerals, dinosaur bones, relics, animals of every shape and size – and even a few ancient humans. (Calle de José Gutiérrez Abascal, +34 914 111 328; mncn.csic.es) SCIENCE Housing a collection of 15,000 objects ranging from the 16th century to the present, there are plenty of hands-on exhibits and cool “machines” at the Museo Nacional de Ciencia y Tecnologia just waiting to be tested. This is a great interactive museum – perfect for inquisitive kids. (Calle del Pintor Velázquez 5, +34 914 250 919; muncyt.es)

MONAGHAN’S

CASHMERE STORE Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide

A World Class

VISITOR EXPERIENCE

Mr. Tom Monaghan

A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom Monaghan in his store in Dublin’s Royal Hibernian Way. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere selling a wide range of classic sweaters in the latest styles and colours for both men and women.

As we are celebrating our 56th year Tom would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents (terms and conditions apply)

M Monaghan’s Cashmere, Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

www.monaghanscashmere.ie

WHY NOT VISIT IN THE EVENING? • GREAT PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES • MAGICAL SUNSETS • NO CROWDS • ON - SITE PARKING • KIDS GO FREE • BOOK ONLINE & SAVE TIME • OPEN TO 9PM DURING JULY & AUGUST

United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

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T: +353 65 7086141 E: info@cliffsofmoher.ie

www.cliffsofmoher.ie

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

DESTINATION | CONNECTICUT

Autumn creeping in ... dawn fog in Glastonbury.

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CINE SEASON Vermilion and full-bodied – Connecticut in the autumn is like a fine wine, and with cinematic views aplenty.

WORDS LAUREN HESKIN PHOTOGRAPHS L&S STUDIOS

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DESTINATION | CONNECTICUT

he expression “steeped in history” couldn’t be more hackneyed, however it unarguably describes Connecticut, New England’s southernmost state. Hartford was the first American colony to adopt the country’s inaugural constitution in 1639, establishing itself as a Puritan community – aka “the land of steady habits”, for its socio-political and religious conservatism. It is also the birthplace of writer Mark Twain, whose house in the leafy suburbs of Hartford is a must-see.

These days, Connecticut – named after the Native American quinatacquet, meaning “beside the long tidal river” – is the US’s fourth most densely populated state.

Yet it continues to surprise and charm, no more so than during the autumn months when ‘leaf peepers’ road-trip across New England to witness its kaleidoscopic changes in foliage.

Once a maritime stronghold where ships found shelter in the Long Island Sound, Connecticut’s ‘Gold Coast’ is now a homely haven for Manhattan’s financial titans, where the highest number of top five per-centers in the

country reside. The clapboard mansions surrounding towns like Greenwich, Norwalk, Stamford and Mystic Country – home of the preserved whaling ship, the Charles W Morgan – rival that of famed Cape Cod, though are somewhat less conspicuous, nestled within the state’s luminescent forests. Further north is New Haven, which becomes a bustling student hub every September as bright young academics arrive to join the Ivy League massive at Yale University.

Before you head off leaf peeping, check out some of Hartford’s best craft distilleries and bars, including Onyx Moonshine (64D Oakland Avenue, +1 860 550 1939; onyxmoonshine.com), the no-nonsense Spigot Café (468 Prospect Avenue), or the Engine Room in Mystic (14 Holmes Street, +1 860 415 8117; engineroomct.com) for an array of local brews on tap.

Plenty to drink in then – not just its homegrown tipple but those gold, amber, orange and every-shade-of-red leaves littering forest floors and canopies with flamecoloured leaves that burn brightly from around midSeptember until November.

No Vehicles ... telling the wood from the trees at Paugussett State Forest, Sandy Hook.

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DESTINATION | CONNECTICUT

1 Avery Ashton and her French bulldog soaking up the view in Storrs.

2 What is 1/8 of pie? Tucking in at Luna Pizza in West Hartford. lunapizzawh.com 3 A ghostly beauty – sunshine hits the panes of an abandoned lot in Hartford.

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SLEEP AT …

TRADITIONAL The chintzy Mermaid Inn of Mystic has oodles of old-world character (and lots of fishtailed ladies).

Decorated by local artist Jen Wolcin, this “Victorian Italianate” is everything you’d expect of a New England nook, from its blue shutters to the Adirondack chairs beyond the quintessentially American porch. B&B 92 |

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from $220. (2 Broadway Avenue, +1 860 536 6223; themermaidinnofmystic.com) ELEGANT Only two hours from New York City, The Mayflower Grace is the ultimate in bucolic luxury. This boutique hideaway is nestled in a nature reserve just outside Washington, on more than 20 hectares of beautifully curated

gardens. It also has an acclaimed spa, a sumptuous restaurant and a tranquil elegance that flows throughout its 30 bedrooms. Doubles from $610. (118 Woodbury Road, +1 860 868 9466; gracehotels.com/mayflower) CHIC Right in the heart of the Arts Campus of New Haven’s Yale University, The Study at

Yale hotel’s natural textures, sophisticated surrounds and clean lines make it the ideal stay for either a corporate stopover or a weekend romp around the Ivy League. With a library curated by Strand Book Store in New York City, it’ll get your academic juices flowing in no time. Rooms from $179. (1157 Chapel Street, +1 203 503 3900; studyatyale.com)

4 4 Rose-tinted dunes

5

– the sun sets on a beach near Groton.

5 Little critters –

crayfish at Steep Rock Preserve, Washington Depot.

6 A light dusting of snow swirls across a golf course in Newtown.

7 A golden harvest

trail at Riverfront Park in Glastonbury.

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DESTINATION | CONNECTICUT

9 8 Rustic walls and homegrown flavours can be found at Moxie, a bar and restaurant in Madison. moxie-bar.com 9 A fruitful harvest – rosy apple picking at Roses Berry Farm in Glastonbury.

10 Bright-eyed and big-eared – a deer spotted in the greenery, Newtown.

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SMART TIPS BIG COU NTRY The Durham Fair is the largest agricultural event in New England and celebrates its centennial year this September 22-25. The small town welcomes 200,000 visitors annually, and events include a giant pumpkin competition, country music performances, a demolition derby and oxen pulling, plus a “Redneck Arena” of games and stalls. durhamfair.com GRAPE CRAIC Let The Wine Trail guide you through 24 of the state’s wineries, meeting dedicated farmers and passionate wine makers.

Autumn is the best time of year for this meander as the tree-lined roads are bursting with bright foliage, the perfect complement to a warming Cabernet. Hic! ctwine.com

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11 12

11 Plane trailings – pink streaks appear over an Addison farm at sunset.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to HARTFORD four times per week starting September 28.

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12 These boots are made for walking – there are lots of great hiking trails in Connecticut, including Talcott Mountain in Bloomfield, Bigelow Hollow in Union and Bear Mountain in Salisbury.

13 Quinton Brogan at Lovers Leap State Park in New Milford.

13

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SMART EDIT | CANALS

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5 Best

CANAL BREAKS Fionn Davenport navigates lesserknown canal trips worth making.

BELGIUM

BRUGES No visit to this Belgian beauty is complete without taking to the water.

Sure, it’s touristy, but there’s no better way to view its soaring towers, Medieval spires and rows of gorgeous houses than on a canal boat tour.

Bruges By Boat is just one of several companies working the canals. (boottochten-brugge.be)

MILO PROFI

LINGER AT For 800 years St John’s Hospital cared for pilgrims and the sick. Now the Museum St-Janshospitaal, it houses six masterpieces by Hams Memling and, in the chapel, a fascinating array of Medieval surgical instruments.

The building alone is worth a visit.

(Mariastraat 38; bezoekers.brugge.be)

REFUEL AT One of the nicest bistros in town, Christophe is a latenight joint that specialises in local seafood dishes – you can nibble on the homemade shrimp croquettes or opt for something more substantial: the salad with Zeebrugge shrimp, smoked salmon and tiger prawns is superb. (Garenmarkt 34, christophe-brugge.be) One of Bruges’ best nights out is at the Sunday night Gothic Cabaret in Retsin’s Lucifernum, a former Masonic lodge. The owner is a self-proclaimed vampire, there’s an old cemetery in the garden and you enter the candlelit room through a voodoo temple. What’s not to like?

(Twijnstraat 6; lucifernum.be)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Brussels 14 times weekly.

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England VISIT ENGLAND

TIPPLE AT Jekyll & Hyde don’t serve cocktails, rather “elixirs, concoctions and potions”, to be enjoyed in Mr Hyde’s emporium downstairs or Dr Jekyll’s gin parlour upstairs – which has 90 odd varieties. Very Alice in Wonderland. (28 Steelhouse Lane; thejekyllandhyde.co.uk)

"The city was a major hub on the English canal network"

ENGLAND

BIRMINGHAM Bet you didn’t know that Birmingham has more miles of canals than Italy’s Venice. It’s a leftover from the Industrial Age, when the city was a major hub on the English canal network that extended right through the West Midlands.

You can still explore Birmingham’s canals, aboard a narrow boat operated by Sherborne Wharf Boat Trips, which goes from the quayside by the International Convention Centre. (Sherborne Street; sherbornewharf.co.uk) LINGER AT Britain’s most important Shakespeare collection is just one of the reasons to visit the architecturally-stunning Library of Birmingham, designed by Francine Houben and opened in 2013.

The glass elevator leads to the seventh-floor ‘secret garden’, which has fabulous views of the city.

(Centenary Square; libraryofbirmingham.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Birmingham four times daily, from Cork twice daily, and from Shannon six times per week.

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REFUEL AT Get a fine coffee and snacks (including delicious gourmet sausage rolls) from the tiny Jake’s Coffee Box, off Colmore Row. What makes it special? It’s in a classic red telephone box.

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SMART EDIT | CANALS

USA

VENICE BEACH Ever wonder where LA’s famous beach resort town got its name?

Tobacco millionaire Abbot Kinney’s gift to the city was an extensive network of canals just a couple of blocks inland from the Boardwalk, off 25th Street. You can’t get on the water unless you own your own boat, but you can walk the paths alongside it.

Venice Beach Walking Tours runs guided tours of the canals. (venicebeachwalkingtours.com; $40) LINGER AT You can’t travel to LA and not bear witness to the wonderful freak show that is Venice Boardwalk, where hula hoop magicians, tattooed refugees from the 1960s and its collection of world-famous bodybuilders give

full and public expression to their marvellous eccentricities.

REFUEL AT The best Italian food in Venice is at the busy Gjelina restaurant, where you forego the niceties of a private table and chairs in favour of communal tables and bar stool seating. The food is worth it. (1429 Abbot Kinney Boulevard; gjelina.com) Downstairs in Townhouse & Delmonte Speakeasy there’s great music, both live and DJ’d; upstairs there is a lovely, dark pool hall where you sit in booths nursing a cocktail while you wait your turn to rack and break.

(52 Windward Avenue; townhousevenice.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles direct four times per week.

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IRELAND

SHANNON-ERNE WATERWAY

Ireland

The Shannon-Erne waterway is arguably the best spot in Ireland for a barge holiday. You have a choice between the glorious River Shannon and Upper Lough Erne – a watery maze where you slowly navigate your way around 150-odd islands. Corraquill Cruising Holidays in Derrylin, has four Dutch barges, from the six-berth Double Dutch to the eight-berth Louisa, that you can take on the river or the lake – there’s also Lower Lough Erne. (corraquillcruising.com; £300 for a weekend)

REFUEL AT Blakes of the Hollow, below, is a pearl of a Victorian pub that hasn’t changed a jot since opening in 1887. Marble-topped bar, ancient wood panelling, an open fire … and a sensational pint.

(6 Church Street, Enniskillen) A late-18th-century thatched cottage is home to the Thatch Coffee Shop, a fine café that serves excellent sandwiches, soups, homemade scones and cakes.

(20 Main Street, Belleek)

LINGER AT Tour the elegant, 18thcentury Castle Coole, right, (highlights include the bedroom laid out for George IV in 1821) and take a stroll through the 600 hectares of landscaped grounds that include a lake that's home to a nonmigratory colony of greylag geese.

It’s two-and-a-half kilometres south of Enniskillen. (nationaltrust.org.uk)

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SMART EDIT | CANALS

COMPAGNIE DE NAVIGATION DU LAC D'ANNECY / D.LAFFONT / C.MAX / MAIRIE

France

FRANCE

ANNECY This “Venice of the Alps” is one of France’s most beautiful towns, a Medieval masterpiece beside Lake Geneva that is cut through with crystal-clear canals. The Compagnie des Bateaux runs seasonal water tours that explore the lake and the Old Town along its shores. There’s your standard sightseeing cruise, an omnibus tour that stops in several villages along the lake and the more romantic dinner cruise (€59 per person) aboard the MS Libellule. (2 Place aux Bois; +33 450 510 840; annecy-croisieres.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Geneva daily.

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LINGER AT If you can tear yourself away from the water, it should be to visit the former home of the counts of Geneva, Château d’Annecy, a Medieval castle with a fine selection of art, furniture and sculpture. (Place du Château, musees.agglo-annecy.fr) REFUEL AT Beer O’Clock is a bar that’s a bit like a petrol station: after loading up credit on your computerised magnetic card you can then drink as much as you like from the 12 microbrews on offer.

(18 rue du Faubourg Sainte-Claire)

The excellent local Food Market is spread out through the streets of the Old Town selling all kinds of Savoyard delicacies, as well as a full selection of fruit and vegetables. (Tuesdays and Fridays, Corner rues Sainte-Claire and de la République)

ExpEriEncE TiTanic BElfasT

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Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.

Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.

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W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie

DESTINATION | ROME

48 hours in

ROME

Roisin Agnew eats and drinks in the stupendous views that the Eternal City has to offer.

Eat at ...

CHIC Situated in the happening night-time neighbourhood of Monti, Urbana 47 prides itself on its “kilometro zero” low-carbon ethos and locally sourced produce. It is a unique introduction to the best of Lazio’s regional fare and traditional cooking. With an upcycled industrial decor, Urbana has a chic but laid-back spirit. (Via Urbana 47, +39 06 4788 4006; urbana47.it) POPULAR The clientele at Popi Popi ranges from big tourist groups to savvy locals. It’s as close as it gets to your stereotypical Italian restaurant, with the added bonus that everything is superbly delicious ... and cheap.

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Friendly waiters lay out traditional dishes such as tripe, tongue and ox-tail, as well as light, crispy pizzas.

(Via delle Fratte di Trastevere 45, +39 06 589 5167) CINEMATIC La Veranda restaurant in Hotel Columbus, next to St Peter’s Basilica, formed one of the locations used in Paolo Sorrentino’s cinematic masterpiece La Grande Bellezza.

The vaulted frescoed ceilings, right, and white linen tablecloths that look onto the old Borgo Santo Spirito make it one of the most magical fine-dining experiences in the world.

(Borgo Santo Spirito 73, +39 06 687 2973; laveranda.net)

The vaulted ceilings and elevated elegance of La Veranda.

ELEGANT Hotel Locarno’s turn-of-the-century property centres on an incredibly atmospheric internal courtyard, where one can sip an aperitivo or digestif.

Situated off the Piazza del Popolo and close to the shopping mecca of Via del Corso, the charmingly preserved Art Deco elegance of this hotel, left, is an oasis amid the chaos. Double rooms from €212.

(Via della Penna 22, +39 06 361 084; hotellocarno.com)

Sleep at ...

ARTISTIC The beautiful rooms of the luxury B&B Buonanotte Garibaldi, right, were originally a fibre art studio.

Converted with a style that reflects its owner Luisa Longo’s sensibilities, as well as her artwork on silks and organza, this place is a cosy and elegant way to ease into a Roman holiday in the heart of Trastevere, Rome’s best-loved neighbourhood. Double rooms from €240. (Via Giuseppe 83, +39 06 5833 0733; buonanottegaribaldi.com)

Drink at ...

TERRACE During the summer the open-air Terrazza San Pancrazio bar is a popular watering-hole as it’s situated in the breezier environs of the Janiculum.

Serving sushi and cocktails, the real seller is the view – the Roman skyline and beautiful Italians. (Via di Porta San Pancrazio 32, +39 331 257 4249)

MID-RANGE Also in Trastevere, Arco dei Tolomei B&B, right, is housed in a palazzo on the banks of the Tiber.

The six rooms are decorated with individual character and a touch of zaniness. A perfect base from which to visit the Janiculum and Campo dei Fiori. Double rooms from €205. (Via dell’Arco de’ Tolomei, +39 06 5832 0819; bbarcodeitolomei.com)

ROOFTOP Rooftop bars are the best way to drink in Rome’s vast beauty. The Hotel Minerva’s, above, Le Cupole rooftop bar next to the Pantheon, presents a romantic and upscale option, with one of the best 360-degree views of the Eternal City. (Piazza della Minerva 69, +39 06 695 201; minervaroofgarden.it)

Don't miss …

FOOD Although Eataly, below, is now an international chain, it is here in Rome that the superb food hub is at its best.

Over five floors it offers an incredible array of biological and artisanal products, hard-to-find food brands, natural makeup and an enormous selection of wines.

A necessary pilgrimage for food obsessives. (Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492, +39 06 9027 9201; eataly.net)

MUSEUMS Designed by Michelangelo and overlooking the Roman forum on one side and the Campidoglio on the other, the Capitoline Museums bring home the sheer volume and scale of Rome’s ruins. Touristy but quiet and well worth it. (Piazza del Campidoglio 1, +39 060 608; museicapitolini.org) ALTERNATIVE Il Pigneto is the latest area to get a buzz about it thanks to its blossoming creative and alternative scene. Populated by bars, restaurants, galleries and late-night spots, it's perfect for anyone looking for something “different”. This is one of the few places where they’ll be tolerant of veganism and/or fashionable food intolerances.

TRADITIONAL One of Rome’s classic salt-of-the-earth bars, San Calisto is situated just off busy Santa Maria in Trastevere. During the day they serve coffee while at night patrons are invited to buy bottles of beer (generally only Peroni) or glasses of wine at the counter and bring them outside. A great local with a street-wise soul. (Piazza di San Calisto 4, +39 06 583 5869)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to ROME 11 times we

ekly.

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ON BUSINESS

Sunny Side North Joe Callaghan shines a light on Toronto’s entrepreneurial nous.

Making travel work for you

hile their noisy southern neighbours descend ever further into an unprecedented presidential squabble, Canada is busily blooming. Late last year, ultra-likeable Justin Trudeau stormed to election victory on the back of his promise of “Sunny Ways” positivity.

Nowhere is that progressive sense of openness and opportunity more evident than in Toronto. The most diverse metropolis on the planet, it’s a melting pot that’s bubbling over for business too. Yet Canada, and particularly the Greater Toronto Area, was for so long the antithesis of diverse when it came to tech

W

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to TORONTO daily.

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culture. The be-all behemoth of the sector was BlackBerry, born in nearby Waterloo.

These days, Silicon Valley North is spread much more evenly.

Young Canadian companies, led by e-commerce software Shopify, have helped the tech and innovation sector grow faster than any other part of the national economy. MaRS Discovery District, in the heart of a metro area of more than six million people, is the epicentre of Toronto’s tech rebirth. One of the world’s largest urban innovation hubs, its origins lie in the medical and scientific sectors but it’s now a catchall for any and every up-and-comer.

Facebook permanently moved in as recently as April, establishing a new Canadian HQ but, more importantly, locking itself in as a “strategic partner” in the centre, gaining instant access to the army of red-hot startups and emerging entrepreneurs on site. “MaRS is not just about creating billion-dollar companies,” reads the MO. “But touching a billion lives.” The kind of outlook Prime Minister Trudeau would be proud of.

SMART MONEY The city rechristened “The 6ix” by its most famous son music icon Drake, goes all silver screen every September. The Toronto International Film Festival is second only to Cannes in the pecking order these days. But that doesn’t mean TIFF is an exclusive affair. Sampler ticket packs make for great value and better still, there are free shows too – the Cinematheque and People’s Choice Award screenings costing not a cent. (September 8-18; tiff.net)

COURTESY OF TIFF

Business

CITY OF TORONTO

Eat at …

CASUAL A city as diverse as Toronto does a good line in just about every national cuisine ... and it doesn’t miss on Mexican. La Carnita is a taco popup that’s found fixed locations, with the best of them the grungy, graffititagged College Street joint. Before ascending to taco heaven – beef cheek, ceviche, cotija top the list – the street corn starter is a must. Leave room for the world’s most moreish churros.

(501 College Street, +1 416 964 1555; lacarnita.com) SPLURGE A recent migrant from Vancouver, Miku is a vast upmarket Japanese hall at the bottom of Bay Street that is a huge hit with the corporates who call the street their 9-5 home. Aburi Oshi is the selling point: seared sushi to you and I. Salivating specialties abound but straying from seafood reaps rewards too – the pork belly is other-worldly. The show stealer, however, is dessert, with the green tea opera cake worth the trip alone. (105-10 Bay Street, +1 647 347 7347; mikutoronto.com)

Market Munch HOMELY How seriously does Toronto take brunch? Queueingoutside-in-minus-20 kinda seriously!

Petit Déjeuner is the pick of a thick brunch bunch. A Canadian-Belgian comfort food cavern in east downtown, it’s made for lazy Sundays. Bear with the queue because through the doors are some of the best waffles this side of Brussels – with piles of Canadian peameal bacon and maple syrup on top.

(191 King Street East, +1 416 703 1560; petitdejeuner.ca)

Named the world’s best food market by National Geographic, the historic St Lawrence Market is an Instagram-ready grub Mecca that abounds with cheap eats and artisanal delights.

Opposite, Toronto’s skyline reveals layers of history, above, and Jake Gyllenhaal meeting fans at the Toronto International Film Festival, far left. Top, Petit Déjeuner’s moreish Belgian waffles, and left, chef sightings at Miku.

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Business

Stay at ...

LUXE One of the tallest buildings in the city, the Shangri-La earns every one of its five stars with all of the dashes of plush and posh you’d expect from one of the world’s luxury leaders. But it’s the on-site amenities that set it apart.

The Miraj Hammam spa, left, is an oasis of opulent unwinding, and the crazycool, split-level Momofuku is three restaurants in one, all of them incredible.

Rooms from $505. (188 University Avenue, +1 647 788 8888; shangri-la.com)

QUIRKY It has fewer bells and whistles than the Shangri-La and not a lot of the Drake’s cool, see opposite, but if you’ve ever wanted to wake up, open your curtains and watch a baseball game with 48,000 others, then the Renaissance Hotel is for you. The only hotel in the world built into a stadium, grab a room with a bird’seye view of the Blue Jays and root for the home team.

Rooms from $329. (1 Blue Jays Way, +1 416 341 7100; marriott.com)

In a city that pulsates to pro sports, ice hockey – or plain old hockey to the locals – remains king. This month sees the attempted rebirth of the World Cup of Hockey with eight teams vying for glory. All games take place at the Air Canada Centre.

(September 17 to October 1; nhl.com)

DAVE GILLESPIE

Puck Up

Nightlife at ...

PARTY Very much on the sexy side of subterranean, Uniun, middle right, is nestled among a clutch of westside clubs that lead the way in the city’s nightlife scene. Yet it still stands out from the crowd, thanks in part to its mash-up of industrial 112 |

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and elegant, and more so its groundbreaking LED-light and sound systems that attack the senses in the best way. If it’s good enough for Snoop Dogg ... (473 Adelaide Street West, +1 416 603 9300; uniun.com) ACTIVE The TO branch of a modern Manhattan hotbed, SPiN is a cavernous King West hall that’s quite literally the place for post-work play. Ping pong, right, is the game of choice with more than a dozen tables constantly ticking over. Amateurs and the advanced swat away while guest DJs get their own spin on into the small hours. A funky food menu and extensive cocktail list provide plenty of sustenance in between sets.

(461 King Street West, +1 416 599 7746; toronto.wearespin.com)

JORDAN PROBST

HIP Part of a “triad” of sibling establishments in gritty cool Dundas West (The Black Hoof and Rhum Corner are just across the street), the place known simply as Cocktail Bar, above right, is an off-radar gem. Owner-bartender Jen Agg’s concoctions are becoming the stuff of legend. We recommend a Crusta Rhymes if a sweet-sour-citrus punch in the palate is your idea of a good time. The duck wings are divine.

(923 Dundas Street West, +1 416 792 7511; hoofcocktailbar.com)

HIP Is it possible for a hotel that’s just over a decade old to be an institution? The Drake has been making its own rules since its current incarnation opened in 2004. No relation to the city’s hip-hop king, it does hold a similarly seminal place in Toronto’s cultural make-up. A creative hub, an A-list hang-out, a neighbourhood coffee HQ, The Drake is all things to all people and is always an experience. Rooms from $209.

(1150 Queen Street West, +1 416 531 5042; thedrakehotel.ca)

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Business

ELLY WALTON

Below, a bookcase of board games at Snakes & Lattes, and below right, a sunset cruise with a difference on Lake Ontario.

Play at ...

CHANCE A craft beer and Connect 4? A mocha and Monopoly? If a board game café sounds like your kind of thing – and especially if it doesn’t – then roll on up to Snakes & Lattes. This writer was dubious but couldn’t have been more wrong. With more than 3,000 games (yep!) to grab and guides to help you through the rules, this hive of happiness is the antidote to the stuckin-our-smartphones era. (498 College Street, +1 647 342 9229; snakesandlattes.com) SHARE The concept is not complicated. It couldn’t be simpler – normal people tell normal stories and yet it’s extraordinarily fun.

True Stories Told Live is a sumptuously fulfilling social get-together. Organiser Martha Shandur describes herself as a “story excavator” and coaches anyone interested in sharing a yarn. Don’t feel like sharing yet?

Fine. Just turn up at the next get-together with open ears and savour the stories. (The Garrison, 1197 Dundas Street West; truestoriestoronto.com) 114 |

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ACTIVE Before winter comes a-rolling in off the water, get out on to one of the Great Lakes and savour the city’s skyline from the perfect vantage point. Stand-up paddle boarding is one of the fastestgrowing pastimes on the planet. Coasting along with Lake Ontario lapping up around you, you’ll realise why. The fun and uber-friendly crew at SUPGirlz will ensure you get the hang of it quickly. (18 MacLean Avenue, +1 647-648 3685; supgirlz.com)

GLOBAL EXPERTS LOCAL SPECIALISTS

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Get in touch Dublin Jonathan Kelly jkelly@philiplee.ie Andreas McConnell amcconnell@philiplee.ie Brussels Philip Lee plee@philiplee.ie San Francisco Sarah Johnson sjohnson@philiplee.ie

7/8 Wilton Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland T: IRE:+353 1 237 3700; USA:+1 415 213 2836 info@philiplee.ie philiplee.ie

Business

A DAY IN THE LIFE

I LOVE VISITING …

Originally from Newry, Brendan Murdock is founder/owner of fast-growing men’s grooming brand Murdock London.

6.30am I don’t like to hang around in the mornings so as soon as I wake up I gulp a cup of strong, black Monmouth filter coffee, shovel in a bowl of muesli and yoghurt before giving my dog, Dodger, a short walk. All of that in time for a spinning class at the Shoreditch House gym at 7.30. I started about a year ago and I love the short, sharp shock of it so early in the morning.

9am I try to be at my desk by 9am and through the morning I catch up with my team. This is the time when we go over ongoing projects, product development, discuss the weekly numbers at our shops and prioritise for the weeks ahead.

11am As the company has grown to nine stores and we’re now retailed around the world, it’s important to research as much as possible and continually develop the brand. So, happily, I get to spend lots of time with creative types, whether in terms of product design, events PR, or brand tie-ins with likeminded companies.

Lunch is usually spent outside the office – creative meetings, often at the local Shoreditch restaurant Hoi Polloi (hoi-polloi.co.uk) or one of the many new coffee shops that seem to spring up every week.

3pm Murdock (murdocklondon.com) has several shops and concessions across London, and I try to visit them as often as possible. I use the afternoons to move from store to store, from our concession at Liberty men’s department, to our recently opened flagship store in Soho, in order to meet with staff and see how things 116 |

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THE CÔTE D’AZUR, FRANCE I love to visit Nice at any time of year, especially to drive along its beautiful coastline, overlooking the twinkling blue sea.

are going. As founder of the company I think it’s important to have a presence for all within the company to see.

6pm We like to hold events for our customers during the evenings whenever we can. Often, I’ll attend one of our “How to Shave” evenings, for example, organised in collaboration with a whiskey or gin company to help keep the event merry. Although, too much whiskey and too many straight razors in the same room can be a worrying combination … but no casualties so far!

8pm I love going to the theatre. My partner Mark is an English professor at King’s College so we meet up straight after work once a week and try to see a play – we recently saw the magnificent The Plough and the Stars at the National Theatre [until October 22; stars Tom Vaughan-Lawlor]. I also love going for dinner with friends – a new local favourite is Morito (moritohackneyroad.co.uk), which has just opened across the street from me.

SEE Take a drive up to the hilltops of Saint-Paul-de-Vence to contemporary art museum Fondation Maeght (fondationmaeght.com) for some exquisite views and stunning pieces of 20th-century art.

Afterwards, dine at La Colombe d’Or (la-colombe-dor.com), a bijou restaurant and hotel with the best French food.

SWIM You can’t visit Nice and not spend at least one day on a gorgeous private beach.

I like Paloma Beach Club (paloma-beach. com) on Cap Ferrat, just west of Nice. It’s a wonderful little indulgence and afterwards I visit Villa de Rothschild (villa-ephrussi.com) or take the coastal walking path around the cape to enjoy the sunset.

A U D I T | TA X | A D V I S O R Y | O U T S O U R C I N G

Specialist Accountants When you need specialist insight into Financial Services, International Trade and Government, our knowledge is deep and our partner led approach is personal.

Our niche focus in these three areas is what makes us unique. When it matters, choose an expert.

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Business

1

APP There are any number of virtual travel guide apps on the market but the genius of the free Yahoo Radar (yahoo.com) is that it can scan your email inbox for any trip-related messages and add any bookings into an itinerary. As well as receiving alerts if details change, Radar offers personalised recommendations for your next trip and refines its suggestions the more you use the app.

2

STAY Designed with the business traveller in mind, the first Pullman hotel in Liverpool is nestled on the city’s waterfront and, as well as having a dedicated executive floor, is integrated with ACC Liverpool – the city’s landmark conference venue and home of the BT Convention Centre. (Kings Dock, +44 151 945 1000; pullmanhotels.com)

3

BUSINESS

TRAVEL HOT LIST

GADGET Never let a great idea get lost on your travels again with the Wacom Bamboo Spark, a smart folio you can scribble on and where your doodles are magically morphed into text on your smartphone. Notes and illustrations are saved to the Wacom Cloud too so you can retrieve them to work on later, and it’s slim enough to slip into a briefcase or bag. $159.95 from wacom.com.

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APP Detailed travel tips, colour-coded security alerts and consular details for 200 countries are at your fingertips with free travel safety app TravelWise Ireland. Launched by the department of foreign affairs, the app lets you “favourite” countries you’re visiting, register with embassies and access need-to-know info about visas and passports.

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EVENT At the 10th Business of Software Conference in Boston (September 12-14) there are no sales pitches and no panels. Instead there are in-depth talks from people with diverse opinions in an intimate setting. This year’s theme is scaling a global business, from hiring and retaining the best people to scaling marketing activity into different locations and cultures. businessofsoftware.org

MERIT-XELL ARJALAG

4

ACCESSORY Hate packing? Rolo Travel Bag is a compression bag, suitcase, wardrobe and organiser all rolled into one – literally. Simply fold your clothing, place in the zip pockets, roll it up and off you go. It’s lightweight and comes with a swivel hanging hook and nylon-mesh zipper pockets to keep everything in its place. $49.99 at rolotravel.com.

UER

Lisa Hughes picks the latest devices and places to smooth the way for work on the go.

7

STAY Don’t be fooled by Casa Bonay’s neoclassical façade; Barcelona’s newest haunt has understated creativity within. Located 200 metres from Tetuan Metro Station, this eclectic hotel showcases modern Mediterranean-style design (think wooden furniture by local craftmongers AOO), while courtyard suites come with outdoor showers, hammocks and yoga kits. Rooms from €108. (700 Gran Via de Les Corts Catalanes, +34 935 458 050; casabonay.com)

Coaching businesses on both sides of the Atlantic

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Peter Vale Partner - Tax Ireland E peter.vale@ie.gt.com T +353 (0)1 6805 952

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8 offices in Ireland, over 730 globally.

#GTUSIrish

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© 2016 Grant Thornton Ireland. All rights reserved. Authorised by Chartered Accountants Ireland (“CAI”) to carry on investment business. Grant Thornton is a member firm of Grant Thornton International Ltd. (GTIL).

Associate partners

Business Hotel

ARTFUL LODGER

Lucy White goes A-list at London’s The Arts Club.

WHAT & WHERE The venerable Arts Club is nestled between the equally salubrious Brown’s Hotel and the cocktail-treasure-chest toting nightspot Mahiki, and just a sashay away from Christian Louboutin and Victoria Beckham boutiques. Co-founded by Charles Dickens in 1863 on nearby Hanover Square (Monet and Renoir were members), the club has been welcoming artists and intellectuals to this townhouse address since the early 1900s (Peter Blake, Grayson Perry). Gwyneth Paltrow is such a fan of its 16 understatedly plush rooms and suites that she and its chairman, Gary Landesberg, are launching a West Hollywood off-shoot in 2018, lending not just her celebrity but her cash, as an investor. (40 Dover Street, Mayfair, +44 20 7499 8581; theartsclub.co.uk)

INSPIRED DESIGNS The independent boutique Wolf & Badger is also on Dover Street, where its quirky range of accessories, clothing, homewares and curios from British and international designers includes our very own jewellery powerhouse, Chupi. wolfandbadger.com

SWEET TALK Take afternoon tea at Sketch, less than a ten-minute walk from The Arts Club: pink upholstery makes you feel like you’re sat in a big, fat, stylish blancmange (in a good way); sandwiches, scones and sambos are delightfully quirky; and artwork by David Shrigley will broaden your sweettoothed smile even wider. (9 Conduit Street, +44 20 7659 4500; sketch.london)

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DOWN TO BUSINESS Personal butler anyone? A (heated) terrace suite here is so fancy that you even have your own “staff”, summoned by an electronic fob. Do Not Disturb signs are tassels to hang on your door – no commonplace cards here, luxe fans – while vintage dial phones, chevron American walnut flooring, Calacatta Oro marble and silver, clawfoot bathtubs strike a gorgeous Art Deco chord (the flatscreen TV at the far end of said tub is distinctly 21st century).

If money is no object then book the penthouse, which has a retractable roof over a private patio. Guest

rooms are so beautiful that it’s difficult to consciously uncouple with one’s plush bathrobe and have a mosey.

But that would mean missing out on enjoying the property’s dapper, unpretentious public spaces, across which contemporary art changes every four months. B&B from £480; membership £2,000 to join and £2,000 per year, subject to being proposed by an existing member.

DOWNTIME Members and hotel guests are allowed to invite up to three pals, and its exquisitely designed Brasserie and bar on the ground floor is a fine place at which to raise a flute.

Or, head upstairs to the buzzy Kyubi and try a sake flight: a trio of very different flavours, ideal for washing down exemplary Japanese dishes, from butter-soft sushi and sashimi to innovative tea-infused desserts.

Aer Lingus flies multiple times daily from Dublin, Belfast, Cork and Shannon to London Heathrow, and from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.

MAIN BUILDING CONTRACTOR

DESIGN BUILD

JOINT VENTURE PARTNER

Commercial Bio-Pharma Data Centres Industrial Retail Educational Conservation

Killarney House, Kenmare 1877 - 1878

Bolands Mills, Dublin 1941

Killester Bridge, Dublin 1940

Building Excellence Since 1810 Collen Construction Collen Construction UK Collen GmbH

River House, East Wall Road, Dublin 3, Ireland Basepoint Business Centre, Metcalf Way, Crawley West Sussex RH11 7XX, UK In der Kron 6-8, 60489 Frankfurt am Main, Germany

www.collen.com Email: construction@collen.com

T: + 353 1 874 5411 T: + 44 1293 817611 T: +49 69 959 28603

Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT

3

SonAiaR’sT

SM CITY

Simplicity sells When my sister experienced problem teenage skin, she tried to cover up with lots of cheap foundation. My father, whose family comes from a long tradition of Unani medicine, told her that the more we try to mask a problem, the worse it will become. His advice: keep it simple. In my business and my life, I have found that less is more and “simple sells”.

DESTINATION You can’t help but get caught up in the energy of New York City. When I’m there I feel I can do two days’ work in one. I love to stay at the Refinery Hotel – it’s hip, trendy and only a short walk to our NY office on Madison. refineryhotelnewyork.com

4 SONIA DEASY is co-founder of Pestle & Mortar (pestleandmortar.com), a no-fuss, results-driven Irish skincare brand developed with her biochemist sister.

The company was launched in 2014 with Pure Hyaluronic Serum, which encapsulates their less-is-more approach to beauty. Chemical and cruelty-free, the full range is now available nationwide and beyond, including at Exhale Spas in the US and Liberty of London.

1

You already have the resources When the idea for my product and brand was at seedling stage, I wondered how on earth I would bring it to fruition. Each element was crucial – product, brand, marketing and message. I had to look no further than my own family to tap into a wealth of expertise. Don’t get overwhelmed: you have what you need to make the start.

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2

Don’t overthink it I have an end vision for Pestle & Mortar as a complete product range and major cosmetic brand.

However, sometimes it’s easy to trip yourself up trying to get to the bigger picture. Focus on achieving a small goal each day and, little by little, the end vision will come into sight. It’s an organic process – let it be.

Build an infrastructure Put time and intelligence into building an efficient infrastructure behind your product – it will save time in the end. Building our shipping, packaging and banking infrastructure took sweat and tears but now I am free to concentrate on my primary passion, the Pestle & Mortar product range.

5

Use mum skills As a mum to five young children, I did wonder “how am I going to manage all of this?” The truth is mums have all the skills required – we can multi-task, problem-solve, listen, lecture and work to schedule. If you can start and run a successful home and family, you can start and run a successful business.

6

Food is fuel This one might sound obvious but so many busy businesspeople skip meals. No matter where I am or what my travel schedule is, I have a healthy breakfast and I don’t skip meals. I love to cook and I love the ritual of mealtimes with family. Nourish the body to feed the brain that works for you.

SUNDOWNERS AT The rooftop bar of the Standard Hotel in the Meatpacking district. Wow! This has to be one of the best rooftop bars in the world. A truly amazing panoramic view of Manhattan – and the food’s not bad either. standardhotels.com

EAT AT Dirty French located at The Ludlow hotel on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. It’s an NY bistro serving classic French food with a contemporary twist. It’s packed on Friday and Saturday nights, so book well in advance. dirtyfrench.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York three times daily, and from Shannon six times per week.

Where Champions Meet

Recently renovated & refurbished, The K Club features 140 bedrooms and brand new conferencing & events facilities.

For more information: T: +353 (1) 601 7200 | E: sales@kclub.ie | W: www.kclub.ie

Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery

C

onveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

●

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin’

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Irish Music and Traditional Irish Dancing 7 nights-a-week

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Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

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Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers

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Pour Your Own Pint tables

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Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

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For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts

●

HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

●

Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten for quality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast, pictured below.

Really Good Full Irish Breakfast only

€6.95

*This special offer is available Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am.

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

*

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

ain Capt a: ric Ame ar W Civil E 131 S EE

PAG

Flying with Aer Lingus

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment.

Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

126 Welcome aboard 127 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 144 Our Route Networks

Inflight Entertainment 130 Movies to North America 131 Movies from North America 132 Our Classic Movie Selection 135 Television On Demand 138 Radio On Demand 139 Music On Demand

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Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you.

After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight.

If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

Why not try speaking a few words of the native language while you are visiting Ireland!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Goodbye ...is ainm dom My name is...

Conas atá tú? How are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithscéal Excuse me Cara Friend

Aer Lingus are proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded

by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page.

Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.

Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information.

View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Are you ready for take-off and landing?

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.



Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in ’flight mode’?

   

Is your seatback fully upright?

Is your armrest down?

Is your tabletop stowed?

Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting.

ON Airplane Mode

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off.

Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

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Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and reduce jet lag.

KEEP MOVING On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Your comfort and safety

EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

EYE CARE



Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.



Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.



If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

Airbus 330-

200

For your Safety

Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Please do

not remov

e from Aircra

Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do

ft

TIME ZONES ON

Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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Airplane Mode

not remov

e from Aircra

ft

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

Mode

Mode

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

“D&C has set the benchmark for casual Italian dining in the capital..” - Hotpress Magazine

Valued of casual Italianthe restaurants “Dunnecollection & Crescenzi has changed way the Irish eat” - Tom Doorley

“D&C has set the&benchmark Italian dining “Pioneering reigning” -for Thecasual New York Times in the capital..” - Hotpress Magazine

Proud to be

enna Top 10 part of the McK

uide 0 Restaurant G

14-16 South Frederick St. Dublin 2 Ph:+353 (1) 6759892

11 Seafort Avenue Sandymount, Dublin 4 Ph: +353 (1) 6673252

L’O cina Dundrum Ph: +353 (1) 2166764

L’O cina Kildare Ph: +353 045 535850

Bar Italia Ormond Quay Ph: +353 (1) 8741000

www.dunneandcrescenzi.com

Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

Action The Jungle Book 106 mins

PG

The man-cub Mowgli flees the jungle after a threat from the tiger Shere Khan. Guided by Bagheera the panther and the bear Baloo, Mowgli embarks on a journey of self-discovery, though he also meets creatures who don‘t have his best interests at heart. Stars Neel Sethi, Bill Murray and Ben Kingsley.

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Comedy

Batman V PG13 Superman: Dawn of Justice 151 mins Batman takes on the Man of Steel. Stars Ben Affleck, Henry Cavill, Amy Adams EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Keanu

R

98 mins Friends hatch a plot to retrieve a stolen kitten.

Stars Keegan-Michael Key, Jordan Peele, Will Forte EN FR DE

A Hologram for the King

Documentary

R

98 mins An American business man travels to Saudi Arabia. Stars Tom Hanks, Alexander Black, Sarita Choudhury EN

Elvis & Nixon

R

Mr Right

R

86 mins The meeting of the King of Rock n‘ Roll and President Nixon. Stars Michael Shannon, Kevin Spacey, Alex Pettyfer

90 mins The perfect guy with a fatal flaw. Stars Anna Kendrick, Sam Rockwell, Tim Roth

EN

EN

Drama

Hitchcock/ Truffaut

PG13

79 mins How ‘Cinema According to Hitchcock‘ influenced others work. Stars Mathieu Amalric, Wes Anderson, Peter Bogdanovich EN FR DE ES

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Midnight Special

IT

PG13

Money Monster

R

Pelé: Birth Of A Legend

PG

Sing Street

PG13

111 mins A father and son go on the run pursued by a cult. Stars Michael Shannon, Joel Edgerton, Kirsten Dunst

98 mins An irate investor takes over a studio. Stars George Clooney, Julia Roberts, Jack O‘Connell

107 mins The life story of Brazilian football legend Pelé.

Stars Vincent D‘Onofrio, Rodrigo Santoro, Diego Boneta

106 mins A Dublin boy during the 1980s escapes his strained family. Stars Ferdia Walsh-Peelo, Aidan Gillen, Maria Doyle Kennedy

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN DE

EN DE ES

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Maya The Bee Movie 89 mins Maya is a little bee on a big adventure. Stars Kodi Smit-McPhee, Noah Taylor, Richard Roxburgh EN FR DE ES CCEN

EN G

FR DE IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English

Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action

Allegiant

OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I

Action

Captain America: Civil War 146 mins

Political pressure mounts to install a system of accountability when the actions of the Avengers lead to collateral damage. The new status quo deeply divides members of the team and causes a rift between former allies Captain America and Iron Man. Stars Chris Evans, Robert Downey Jr and Scarlett Johansson.

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Comedy

PG13

120 mins Tris must escape beyond the wall that encircles Chicago. Stars Shailene Woodley, Theo James, Jeff Daniels EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Seal Team Eight: Behind Enemy Lines

R

Barbershop: The Next Cut

PG13

Documentary

PG13

My Big Fat PG13 Greek Wedding 2

98 mins Team 8 must fight their way through the Congo.

Stars Tom Sizemore, Lex Shrapnel

112 mins Calvin‘s barbershop helps to change the neighbourhood. Stars Ice Cube, Regina Hall, Anthony Anderson

94 mins An even bigger and Greeker wedding.

Stars Nia Vardalos, John Corbett, Michael Constantine

EN

EN ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Drama

The Boss

R

99 mins A titan of industry is sent to prison. Stars Melissa McCarthy, Kristen Bell, Peter Dinklage

21 Days Under the Sky

PG

75 mins The timeless American love of the motorcycle and the road. Stars Troy Critchlow, Gentry Dayton, Ryan Grossman

EN

EN

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

A Bigger Splash

R

Born to be Blue

R

High-Rise

R

124 mins A man is visited by an old friend and his daughter. Stars Tilda Swinton, Matthias Schoenaerts

Chet Baker‘s musical comeback in the late ‘60s. Stars Ethan Hawke, Carmen Ejogo, Callum Keith Rennie

119 mins Life for these residents is getting out of control.

Stars Tom Hiddleston, Jeremy Irons, Sienna Miller

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN

97mins

Ratchet & Clank

PG

April and the Extraordinary World

EN PG

FR DE

94 mins A mechanic and his newfound robot ally join an elite squad. Stars James Arnold Taylor, David Kaye, Jim Ward

75 mins April goes in search of her missing scientist parents.

Stars Marion Cotillard, Philippe Katerine

EN

EN FR ES

IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English

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We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America.

Timeless favourites such as The Fugitive and Rocky are available, as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.

Our Classic Movie Selection

Alien

R

Bride Wars

PG

117 mins Stars Sigourney Weaver, Tom Skerritt, John Hurt

89 mins Stars Kate Hudson, Anne Hathaway, Candice Bergen

EN

EN DE IT

Raging Bull

R

129 mins Stars Robert De Niro, Cathy Moriarty, Joe Pesci, Frank Vincent EN FR DE

Robots

PG

91 mins Stars Paula Abdul, Halle Berry, Lucille Bliss, Terry Bradshaw EN FR DE IT ES

The Fugitive

PG13

The Heat

124 mins Stars Harrison Ford, Tommy Lee Jones, Sela Ward

117 mins Stars Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy, Demián Bichir

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Cool Runnings

PG

PG

98 mins Stars John Candy, Leon, Doug E Doug

87 mins Stars George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Bill Murray

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE

Rocky

119 mins Stars Sylvester Stallone, Talia Shire, Burt Young

PG

EN FR DE

R

Fantastic Mr Fox

The Grand Budapest Hotel

R

100 mins Ralph Fiennes, Saoirse Ronan EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Sex and the City 2

R

I am Legend

PG13

101 mins Stars Will Smith, Alice Braga, Charlie Tahan EN FR DE IT ES

Sunshine

141 mins Stars Sarah Jessica Parker, Kim Cattrall

107 mins Stars Cillian Murphy, Michelle Yeoh, Troy Garity, Rose Byrne

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES

The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies

PG13

Invictus

134 mins Morgan Freeman, Matt Damon, Tony Kgoroge

The Wolf of Wall Street

R

PG13

R

Magnolia

103 mins Stars Robert Downey Jr, Val Kilmer

188 mins Tom Cruise, Philip Seymour Hoffman, Julianne Moore

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

The Book Thief

The Darjeeling Limited

PG13

131 mins Stars Geoffrey Rush, Emily Watson EN FR DE IT ES

R

Kiss Kiss, Bang Bang

Taxi Driver

144 mins Stars Ian McKellen

180 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Margot Robbie

113 mins Stars Robert DeNiro, Jodie Foster, Sybil Shepard

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE

R

R

The Departed

R

91 mins Stars Owen Wilson

151 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Matt Damon

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Trouble PG13 with the Curve

X-Men Origins: Wolverine

111 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Amy Adams

R

PG13

104 mins Stars Hugh Jackman

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Irish Shorts and Features

Barty Carty PG13

Fallen Bird

10 mins Stars Tim Casey, David Collins, Matthew Collins

10 mins Stars Eric Boylan

EN

EN

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R

Off the Board 8 mins

EN

PG13

Stutterer

PG13

12 mins Stars Matthew Needham, Chloe Pirrie, Eric Richard EN

The Great Fall

PG13

6 mins Stars Aileen Mythen, Anne Byrne, Mia Murphy EN

The Hit Producer

R

The River Man

107 mins Stars Michelle Doherty, Neill Fleming

17 mins Stars Connie Corcoran

EN

EN

PG13

Who is Dervla Murphy?

73 mins Stars Manchán Magan EN

PG

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A PROJECT OF THE MEDIEVAL TRUST

Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes.

Business

Business of Sports

This month Bloomberg‘s Business Of Sports, investigates Bayern Munich and the TV Rights for German football. Also from Bloomberg is Studio 1.0, where host Emily Chang sits down with Greylock Partners‘ David Sze and John Lilly. Meanwhile, EuroNews bring us Business Planet, Real Economy and Science/ Hi-Tech /Innovation – all of which cast a cold eye over economics, technology and energy developments.

Comedy

Documentary

Dara & Ed‘s Pan-American Road Trip

Meet the Orangutan‘s follows the extraordinary daily drama in the world‘s oldest orangutan sanctuary. Also available on board are Cosmos: A Spacetime Odyssey which tries to determine the true age of the earth, and National Geographic‘s Access 360 World heritage, which features Everglades National Park as it comes under siege.

For more on food and culture tune into Beer Geeks, Planet Food and Dara & Ed‘s Pan-American Road Trip, travelling through the mountains of Costa Rica to Panama.

S P O T L I G H T: S P O R T

Aer Lingus will be keeping you up to date with all things sport with weekly highlight shows of the GAA championships.

Lifestyle

Tracks & Trails

Step into the world of food with Made in Italy with Silvia Colloca. Find out the secrets behind the rural cuisine. Tune into Fashion Folk, Design & Decoration and Project Runway All Stars for all things fashion and design. For fans of culture and art Culturefox TV offers a guide to Irish culture and events, whilst Tracks & Trails documents the 15km journey from Valentia Island in Kerry to Bray Head.

Sport

Drama As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of True Detective, Treme and The Walking Dead on offer, as well as episodes from the highly acclaimed series, Game of Thrones, The Sopranos and Graceland.

Modern Family

Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a culture defining series. Now, with four consecutive Emmy Awards for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family returns with Season 6.

Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate a new episode of It‘s Always Sunny in Philadelphia. Also on board are episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Silicon Valley and The Last Man On Earth.

Wild Surf

Kids

Sports fans shouldn‘t miss Host City Rio, which takes a look at everything that you need to know about the Olympic Games.

Also on board are Wild Surf (a must-watch for Surfing fans!), Guide To The Games and HSBC: Golfing World 2016, for everything golf related.

The New Adventures of Figaro Pho

Kids will surely enjoy Sofia The First, as Sofia meets her hero silent knight Sir Bartleby. Kids may also enjoy charming animated series The New Adventures of Figaro Pho or an imaginative episode of Rocka-Bye Island, Marvel‘s Avengers Assemble or Pip Ahoy!.

News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets

True Detective SEASON 2 The second season of True Detective began airing in June 2015 on the HBO network.

Season two comprises eight episodes and there are a lot of big names in this season’s cast, with a principal cast of Colin Farrell, Rachel McAdams, Vince Vaughn, Taylor Kitsch and Kelly Reilly.

Colin Farrell is Ray Velcoro, a compromised detective in the all-industrial City of Vinci, LA County. Vince Vaughn plays Frank Semyon, a criminal and

entrepreneur in danger of losing his life’s work, while his wife and closest ally (Kelly Reilly), struggles with his choices and her own.

Rachel McAdams is Ani Bezzerides, a Ventura County Sheriff’s detective often at odds with the system she serves, while Taylor Kitsch plays Paul Woodrugh, a war veteran and motorcycle cop.

Season two takes place in California and follows the interweaving stories of the

officers from three cooperating police departments.

A bizarre murder brings together three law-enforcement officers and a career criminal, each of whom must navigate a web of conspiracy and betrayal.

Ultimately season 2 of True Detective offers immense drama as we see a joining of three law enforcement groups, multiple criminal collusions, and billions of dollars.

True Detective is a gritty American anthology crime drama television series created by Nic Pizzolatto

Treme SEASON 4 Treme was created by David Simon, creator of The Wire and Generation Kill and Eric Overmyer, writer-producer of Homicide and Law & Order.

Pierce, Khandi Alexander, Rob Brown, Steve Zahn, Kim Dickens, Melissa Leo, Lucia Micarelli, Michiel Huisman, David Morse, India Ennenga and Jon Seda.

the ability of whether the police department can keep up with the rise in crime is questionable.

What keeps the city afloat through all of this is its culture.

Treme is set in post-Katrina New Orleans and documents the struggles of a diverse group of residents as they rebuild their lives and their city.

The story consists of a diverse group of residents struggling to rebuild New Orleans in the months following Hurricane Katrina.

Treme takes its title from the name of one of the city‘s oldest neighbourhoods, a historically important source of African-American music and culture. The large cast of Treme includes Wendell

Life in New Orleans is getting better, but it‘s not happening fast enough to keep residents from wondering whether things would be easier or better elsewhere. Crime is on the rise in New Orleans and

Mardi Gras Indian chief Albert Lambreaux (Clarke Peters) is sewing in preparation for Mardi Gras. The social aid and pleasure clubs are getting ready to hit the streets in their colourful, fast step finery. And those loveable rogues, Davis McAlary (Steve Zahn) and Antoine Batiste (Wendell Pierce) have cooked up a new set of schemes on and off the bandstand.

Treme depicts the struggles of New Orleans residents rebuilding their lives post-Katrina

The Walking Dead SEASON 6 The Walking Dead is an American horror–drama television series. The sixth season premiered in October 2015 comprising of 16 episodes.

Season six was developed for television by Frank Darabont.

It is based on the eponymous series of comic books by Robert Kirkman, Tony Moore, and Charlie Adlard.

In the first part of the season we see Rick and his group leading the Alexandria community through a series of crises.

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These include the threat of a large herd of walkers and an attack by dangerous scavengers known as the Wolves.

In this new reality, there are new dangers, new opportunities and new complexities to face.

The second half of season six involves Rick and his companions discovering more survivor communities. They make allies of the agrarian Hilltop colony and adversaries of the Saviours, which are led by the ruthless Negan.

To claim their place in this newfound landscape, the group must become the threat themselves. This means becoming as terrifying as any of the adversaries they've encountered.

With no hope of safety in Alexandria, Rick and his band of survivors soon discover a larger world beyond what they understood it to be.

Season six is notable for introducing some eminent comic characters such as Heath, Denise Cloyd, Scott, Dwight, Paul ‘Jesus‘ Rovia, Gregory, and Negan.

OUR TOP TV CHOICE The Walking Dead is a TV series which follows a group trying to survive a zombie apocalypse

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Radio On Demand

Our boarding music contains a number of contemporary Irish artists including Clannad, HomeTown, Van Morrison, Dervish, Paddy Casey, HomeTown, Kodaline, Christy Moore, The Script and many more.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

EASY LISTENING

INDIE

IRISH

Blue of the Night

Fitzpatrick Hotels

TXFM‘s Indie Hits

Ceol na nGael

Irish Pulse Broadcast

The Blue of the Night is a musical journey spanning centuries, genres and soundscapes. Presented

by Carl Corcoran.

An hour long compilation of songs that will suit any music taste. Brought to you by The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.

TXFM brings us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as Coldplay, Grimes and Blur.

A traditional music programme presented

by Seán Ó hÉanaigh.

Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.

Irish Pulse brings you some of the most popular hits in Ireland right now.

Listen out for Bressie, Kodaline and many more!

Pop Charts

Louise McSharry All your future favourites in one place, from hip hop to rock and roll. Presented

by Louise McSharry.

KIDS

POETRY

Happy Days

Irish Poetry Corner

Join Emma O’Driscoll for a fun packed show with stories, songs and fun games.

Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish poets.

POP

ROCK

The Eoghan McDermott Show

Radio Nova: Marty Miller

Above average radio… pop culture, cranial acrobatics and he’ll even throw in the odd song.

60 minutes of great guitar music on board your Aer Lingus flight today. Presented by Marty Miller.

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POP

Cooper & Luke – The Big Breakfast 98fm Join Copper and Luke on board your Aer Lingus flight for music and fun.

Pop Charts features the most up-to-the-minute pop hits! Listen to songs

by Omi and Kodaline.

TA L K R A D I O

Documentary on One

Best of Moncrieff

In 1975, Fran O’Toole was killed in the Miami Showband Massacre.

In 1968, Mick Meaney dreamed of breaking the world record for being buried alive.

Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues.

Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

A LT E R N AT I V E

CL ASSIC AL

S P O T L I G H T: KO DA L I N E Kodaline have released their highly anticipated second album Coming up for Air. The Irish group have experimented more with their sound on this album and have created hits such as Honest and The One.

Bruce Springsteen

Annie Lennox Diva Bruce Springsteen The Wild, the Innocent & the E Street Shuffle Mott the Hoople All the Young Dudes

COUNTRY

Brooks & Dunn

Brooks & Dunn #1s... and then Some Cam Untamed Dolly Parton Just because I‘m a Woman Loretta Lynn Full Circle

M E TA L

Amon Amarth

Amon Amarth Jomsviking Bullet for My Valentine Fever Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Yashin The Renegades

Ellie King

Elle King Love Stuff Misty Miller The Whole Family is Worried Natalie Press Side by Side Patti Smith Horses Pink Floyd Pulse (Live)

ELEC TRO

Jean-Michel Jarre & Rone

Faithless Sunday 8 PM Fatboy Slim Palookaville Jean-Michel Jarre & Rone Electronica 2: The Heart of Noise Snakehips Forever, Pt II

OPER A

Simone Kermes & La Magnifica Comunità

Paul Potts One Chance Puccini Il Tabarro Verdi Opera’s Greatest Duets Simone Kermes & La Magnifica Comunità Love

Lucas Debargue

Alliage Quintett & Sabine Meyer Fantasia Khatia Buniatishvili Kaleidoscope Lucas Debargue Scarlatti, Chopin, Liszt & Ravel IRISH

The High Kings

Barbara Dunne Classic Irish Melodies The High Kings Grace & Glory The Gloaming 2

P OP

Meghan Trainor

Meghan Trainor Thank You (Deluxe) Kloe Teenage Craze Kygo Cloud Nine Zayn Mind of Mine (Deluxe Edition)

Aer Lingus are proud supporters of Kodaline, flying the band across our European and North American network as they perform to sell-out audiences.

Exclusively to Aer Lingus guests, you can hear the guys give a track- by-track introduction to their latest album. Get to know the Dublin quartet and the stories behind their creative process and success!

JA Z Z

Miles Davis

Miles Davis Miles Ahead Billie Holiday & Teddy Wilson and his Orchestra The Essential Billie Holiday Benny Goodman and his Orchestra Greatest Hits

RNB

Beyoncé

Anthony Hamilton What I‘m Feelin‘ Empire Cast Empire (Soundtrack Season 2) Beyoncé Lemonade Stevie Wonder A Time 2 Love

KIDS

John Lithgow

John Lithgow Singin‘ In the Bathtub Big Time Rush BTR Johnny Cash The Johnny Cash Children‘s Album

ROCK

Wild Belle

Jeff Buckley You and I Kelvin Jones Stop the Moment Kings of Leon Only by the Night Wild Belle Dreamland

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT

DUBLIN

Where are you flying to?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Passport Control and Security Screening

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections Which Terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you.

Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening

You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure Lounge

Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us.

We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

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Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Victoria Seattle

Duluth

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Salt Lake City

Omaha Denver

Reno

Oakland

San Francisco San Jose San Luis Obispo

Des Moines

St Louis

Louisville Nashville

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Los Angeles

Santa Barbara Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego

Fort Wayne Chicago

Springfield

Las Vegas

Memphis Little Rock

Phoenix

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Indianapolis Wichita

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Cedar Rapids

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Akron Canton

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Albany

Hartford

Newark

Columbus Harrisburg

Dayton

Halifax

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Cincinnati

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Providence

Portland ME

Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore

Washington (National)

Lexington

Greensboro

Knoxville

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

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Savannah Austin

Houston

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Aer Lingus European and North American Network

Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)

Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)

Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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San Juan Aguadilla

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America.

You can travel from Dublin direct to nine US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

Ponce

Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

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Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands

Isle of Man

Knock

Liverpool

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Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

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London (Gatwick)

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Paris

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Munich

Rennes

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(Malpensa)

Bordeaux

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Bilbao

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Milan

(Linate)

Nice

Montpellier Perpignan

Verona Bologna Pula Pisa

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid

Alicante Murcia

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Malaga Faro

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your ight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Izmir

Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book ights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi.

Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

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Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Johannesburg

Cape Town

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

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WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating.

Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.

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A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012

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ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

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ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for €5 each way.

Hooley Nights

For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person.

• • • •

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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | NEW HAMPSHIRE

SPACE ODYSSEY

Playwright Stacey Gregg was changed forever changed by two months at an artists’ retreat. t’s dark. I’m alone in my bed. In a cabin in the woods. I’m not sleeping because of what sounds like footsteps on my porch.

I can truly say that those first few nights in my studio in New Hampshire I wondered if anyone would hear me scream. The answer was probably no but, by the end of my two-month stay, this was the last thing on my mind.

The MacDowell Colony is an artists’ residency. Each lucky artist is given their own studio in the forest. The studios are spread out enough that you won’t see or hear a neighbour. I had no phone signal or internet.

I can’t describe what a profound effect having two months’ away from the world had on my work and my soul. It felt, for the first time since leaving school, that I’d stopped to think. Since then, life just seemed to take on its own momentum, and days spent staring at the sky or walking by the sea grew less and less. Space – literal, figurative, psychological – all feels such a premium. I’d been promising myself a little island of space for years.

Being given a place to work while also having a community of artists from diverse disciplines to unwind with is just about the most ideal situation I can imagine.

And there were parties. Good oldfashioned parties where there was one rubbish sound system, plenty of warm drinks and a lot of grateful, dancing artists.

The height of those trees, the expanse of that sky; the skunks and coyotes and wild turkeys and bears. I’d read about this country,

HANNAH FITCH

I

NINA SOLOGUBENKO

Stacey Gregg, left, and her sylvan home in the MacDowell Colony, above and below.

I’d watched it on film, but to spend time immersed in it was something else. After a week or so my eyes adjusted to walking home in the dark, guided by moonlight.

Instead of fearing the darkness, I came to love it. That entire, ancient, unknown expanse.

On the night of my birthday there was a late-summer meteor storm. I don’t think I’d ever seen a shooting star before. We pulled out table tops and laid them on the grass with blankets over them so we could lie on our backs and drink in the show. As the weeks slipped by, autumn began to turn the leaves a vivid display of colour. We worked meditatively in the day and drank beers by the fire at night.

After the first few weeks, with all that space, I lost my grip on things I had thought immovable about my life, my work, my relationships.

It was simultaneously liberating and terrifying. Apparently it’s not unusual for artists there to experience this, and I had a number

“We worked meditatively in the day and drank beers by the fire at night” 152 |

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Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination?

Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 500 words with a portrait shot of yourself.

The editor’s decision is final.

of saltier stalwarts around to catch and reassure me, until I began to surface again, changed forever, I think.

I’ve worked since I was 13.

Laundrettes, supermarkets, fastfood chains, libraries, even as a “sexpert” – don’t ask. So, for me, the experience gifted to me by MacDowell was beyond anything I’d ever imagined for myself. I got more work done there, actual and psychic, than any other time in my life, and hope to return some day.

But it’s the landscape I carry with me. It got into my skin. It has stayed in me. It was the trip of a lifetime and yet so much of it was simply about going nowhere, sitting still and allowing stillness, space and silence into a noisy, busy life.

Stacey Gregg’s Override, presented by White Label, runs at Project Arts Centre from September 9-17, as part of Tiger Dublin Fringe 2016, which runs citywide until September 25. fringefest.com

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