Contents September News
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06 ArrivAls We meet Aer Lingus’s fresh new arrivals at Dublin’s T2
Fast forward – Bernard Brogan
09 News DiAry Things we must see and do this September 10 News hotels Discover Ireland’s wild side and the elegance of New York 12 News restAurANts The finest dining with Eoin Higgins 14 News shoppiNg Gadgets to go – eco travel accessories from Sive O’Brien 16 News BusiNess Smart Traveller – Lunching in London? Pete Murphy shares his secrets 18 News people What’s in my Suitcase – designer Sonya Lennon packs with panache 20 News people On my Travels – Trent Johnson bowls us over 22 News BeAuty to go Holiday hair care; Ellie Balfe treats your tresses 24 News Books Shelf Life – Bridget Hourican reviews the latest page-turners 26 News DiAry Fringe Benefits – Edel Coffey takes centre stage at the Dublin Fringe Festival 28 News DiAry Taste of Success – Ben Webb reports on the British food producers hoping to whet your appetite
regulars 89 AN iNsiDer’s guiDe to BorDeAuX Conor Maguire salutes the good life in France 92 48 hours iN veNice Wandering romance – Frances Power shares her love of this unique city 95 Aer liNgus iNFlight What’s on for September – movies, music and inflight information 120 trip oF A liFetiMe Writer and adventurer Tim Severin shares his memories of a very special journey
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Eco airwaves – Gadgets to Go
60 Big city of dreams – New York
Features 30 top scorer GAA star Bernard Brogan comes from a dynasty of footballing legends; Ger Gilroy gets under the skin of the enigmatic forward 36 WrIte DIrectIoN As a new generation of Irish writers makes waves internationally, Bridget Hourican finds out what makes them tick 48 WIcKLoW rocKs Author and journalist Peter Murtagh takes us along as he traverses one of Ireland’s most spectacular walking trails
60 sHoppING & tHe cItY Shopping list in hand, Lizzie Gore-Grimes discovers the hidden gems on the streets and avenues of New York City 70 sUrF’s Up ... Surfing newbie and journalist Pól Ó Conghaile and family discover an island paradise in Fuerteventura 82 GreAt DANe Intrepid city seeker Roger Norum shares the smarts on Denmark’s capital city
70 Island paradise – Fuerteventura
Welcome to
Hotels
www.doylecollection.com
DUBLIN
CORK
LONDON
Where the action is . . . . . . without the drama see the full stor y unfold at London Heathrow
BRISTOL
BOSTON
WASHINGTON
EDITORIAL Editor Frances Power Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Editorial Consultant Laura George Editorial Assistant Carlynn McCarthy Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Ellie Balfe, Suzie Coen
Contributors PETER MuRTAGH is foreign editor of The Irish Times and a Wicklow resident. Earlier this summer, he rode a large motorbike along The Wild Atlantic Way, Fáilte Ireland’s West of Ireland project to be launched in 2013, and wrote about it in The Irish Times. Two years ago, he walked the Camino de Santiago in Spain with his daughter, Natasha, and together they wrote a book about their travels, Buen Camino! Cara thought it was about time he walked closer to home and sent him off on The Wicklow Way, see page 48. “It was more taxing than I expected,” he told us afterwards, “all those ups and downs the sides of glaciated valleys. But it was wonderful – remote, wild, beautiful … and right there on my doorstep.”
ART Art Director Clare Meredith Acting Art Director Sandra Horan ADVERTISING Account Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie Advertising Manager Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Head of PR & Promotions Linda McEvitt +353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie Office Manager Tina Koumarianos Accounts Olga Gordeychuk Accounts Assistant Lisa Dickenson BOARD OF DIRECTORS Managing Director & Publisher Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Patrick Dillon-Malone Director Ann Reihill Director Robert Power PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform
JOANNE MuRPHy is an award-winning freelance photographer who specialises in food, lifestyle and portrait photography. She has worked on a wide range of Irish and international publications. This month she traveled to New York for Cara, see page 60. “Everything in New York is a photograph, I wanted to glue my camera to my head so I never had to put it down! On this trip, I visited Brooklyn for the first time and loved it, but one day there just wasn’t enough. Definitely a place to revisit. Despite the oppressive summer heat (and being five months pregnant!) pounding the pavement is still the best way to see the city, meet wonderful New Yorkers and have your own unique New York experience.” Born in New York of Viking blood, anthropologist and author ROGER NORuM returned North for Cara’s Copenhagen feature, see page 82. As co-author and photographer of Rough Guides to both Denmark and Copenhagen, he was the obvious candidate. “It’s hardly a secret that the Scandinavian capitals are real cultural hotbeds now,” Roger remarks. “But Copenhagen takes the prize for being the coolest, hippest and most welcoming. If you get to befriend some Copenhageners, accept an invitation to their home — it will give you some real insight into this proud people.” Roger’s latest book, The Rough Guide to Norway, is out this month.
Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.
Cara Magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. Image Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie Image Publications Ltd –
PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOËLLE O’REILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE
ON THE COVER
Dublin GAA player Bernard Brogan, photographed by Richard Gilligan, assisted by Andrew Nuding.
Arrivals
Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2 is full of new recruits to the Emerald Isle and Irish expats returning home. Cara magazine meets some of them. Photographs by Anthony Woods.
JANICE DALZELLPIPER left, and her PIPER, daughter, DAISY, are based in San Francisco but are back in Dublin for Janice’s parents’ 50th wedding anniversary.
PIERRE ALQUIER is in Dublin to house hunt. The Paris native starts a new job as a maths lecturer in UCD and needs to find a place to call his own.
Londoners JOHN ALEXANDER, left, and JAMIE DAVIS have flown in for Jamie’s wedding in Kilkenny Castle.
WORDS BY CARLYNN McCARTHY
English language students, from left, SUNGHYE-KIM SUNGHYE-KIM, YONGMO KWON, KWON JUNGEUN LEE and KWAN SIK KO are in Dublin hoping to pick up the gift of the gab!
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GABRIELA GARCÍA MONDRAGÓN, left, and CAROLINA RAMOS CHÁVEZ are back in Dublin after a trip to Amsterdam. The Mexican chicas are studying English in Dublin and love the “friendly charisma” of the Irish.
SEPTEMBER 2012
AISLING O’KENNEDY is back in Ireland for her brother’s wedding in Wicklow. The Dubliner has been living in Faro for the past two years.
The CAPT FAMILY who live in Geneva are heading home to Donaghmede for their holidays. They can’t wait to see family and friends. They aren’t too homesick though — they make this trip six times a year.
Fresh from his Frankfurt flight, BRIAN SHEA can’t wait to hear some Irish music and have a pint of Guinness. The Michigan man is on a six-week backpacking trip around Europe.
Every great city has an iconic store. A store which celebrates luxury, creativity, service and the very best Irish and international brands since 1849.
WELCOME TO
BROWN THOMAS GRAFTON STREET DUBLIN, PATRICK STREET CORK, O’CONNELL STREET LIMERICK, EGLINGTON BUILDINGS GALWAY WWW.BROWNTHOMAS.COM
Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ❃
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news Diary
September
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The nomad Pop-up Cinema, London The Nomad’s expertly executed viewings have developed something of a cult following in London, such is their dedication to enhancing the experience of film through location. This month sees Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining projected in Brompton cemetery, while Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo & Juliet is screened in Fulham Palace. All profits earned go to the Sustainability Institute in South Africa. Runs all month. Tickets from £8.50; whereisthenomad.com
Summer may have ended, but the fun has just begun.
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new york Film Festival, new york This year marks The New York Film Festival’s 50th anniversary. The flicks fest will host the world premiers of two of the most hotly anticipated films in recent months: Oscar-winner Ang Lee’s (left) take on the novel Life of Pi and Robert Zemeckis’ Flight, starring Denzel Washington. Runs September 28 to October 14. filmlinc.com aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO new yOrK DAILY AND SHANNON TO new yOrK MON, WED AND FRI.
aer LinGUs FLIES FROM BELFAST, CORK, DUBLIN AND SHANNON TO LOnDOn HeaTHrOw DAILY.
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Valentia isle Festival, Kerry This inaugural boutique music and mingling festival will see FRED, This Club, and comic delinquents The Rubber Bandits, share the same bill. Mingling comes in the form of matchmaking, with workshops on flirting and singles events throughout the weekend, including the Single Mingle in the local half marathon where you are paired up with an unknown suitor/ running partner. Runs September 14-16. Tickets from €39.50. valentiaislefestival.com
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Great Gorilla run, London London goes ape! Witness the slightly unedifying sight of 700 otherwise normal people running through the English capital dressed as Gorillas in an attempt to raise funds for the conservation organisation, The Gorilla Association, this month. Charitable participants have each vowed to raise £400 in sponsorship before they don their simian suits and run the 7km distance. Registration is £80. For more details visit greatgorillarun.org. aer LinGUs FLIES FROM BELFAST, CORK, DUBLIN AND SHANNON TO LOnDOn HeaTHrOw DAILY.
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Music week, Berlin Food for the mind and the soul ... During Berlin Music Week curious creatives unite, host talks on commerce, politics and technology, hold workshops on how best to create music and finish up with a threeday music event featuring Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs, pictured, The Killers and Kate Nash. Runs September 5-9. Tickets from €49. berlin-music-week.de aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BerLin DAILY.
september 2012
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news hotels
Escape
Experience Ireland’s wild side and quirky New York elegance at its best. gRAMeRCY PARK hotel, new YoRK
AeR lIngus FLIES FROM DUBLIN, BELFAST, CORK AND SHANNON TO london heAthRow DAILY.
IMAGE COURTESY OF DESIGN HOTELS™
south PlACe hotel, london
This brand-new hotel is the first to be opened by renowned London restaurateurs D&D (of Quaglino’s and many others) and it’s just as much about meeting – and eating – as about sleeping. It boasts two restaurants, the highpoint (literally) is the Angler Restaurant, which serves top-class seafood and offers a bird’s eye view of the London skyline from its seventh floor eyrie. Set in the financial heart of the City, it looks set to become the hot spot for broking that deal, with three bars (named after spies), private dining rooms and all sorts of high-end flourishes. Rooms from £185. 3 South Place, London, +44 20 3503 0000; southplacehotel.com
This art-house hotel has exuded the refined whiff of old world glamour for decades. Humphrey Bogart got married here, Babe Ruth drank here and John F Kennedy played with his kids on the rooftop terrace. And, folks, the place has still got it. The Gramercy is, of course, one of Ian Schrager’s stable of cool-as-ice spots. And now, in keeping with the trend for elevated bars, the rooftop terrace has had a facelift. The walls are heaving with pieces by Andy Warhol, Damien Hirst and Richard Prince. To accompany the change of scenery, head chef Jeff Seizer has devised a new menu of American classics – expect to see the bohemian set at play here. Rooms from $425. 2 Lexington Avenue, +1 212 920 3300; gramercyparkhotel.com AeR lIngus FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO new YoRK DAILY AND FROM SHANNON TO new YoRK MON, WED, FRI AND SUN.
FotA IslAnd ResoRt, CoRK
the RItZ-CARlton, VIennA
The latest feather in the Ritz-Carlton's cap is its elegant Viennese hotel, comprised of four 19th century palaces on the city's historic Ringstrasse. Not only is it central, but it is just a short walk from the Hofburg Palace, the former Hapsburg imperial residence. All of which makes it a good spot for sightseers and business folk. Schedule in a visit to the nearby Viennese State Opera, check out the Imperial apartments or just order a hot chocolate in the lobby lounge. But pack your swimming togs – the pool is an impressive 18m long and comes complete with underwater music! Rooms from ¤550. Schubertring 5-7, Vienna, +43 1 311 88 110; ritzcarlton.com AeR lIngus FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO VIennA DAILY.
Don’t expect country-house style at Fota Island Resort, this is a purpose-built, unashamedly modern resort. The plus is that it has all the facilities you could hope for from a five-star – a state-of-the-art spa and swimming pool, three championship golf courses (it has hosted the Irish Open), a swanky clubhouse, above, and a fine restaurant, all set in 500 acres or so of parkland. It's a popular location for weddings but especially loved by families. Not only do parents have the kid-friendly pool and midterm-break camps, but the resort shares the island with Fota Wildlife Park, which is carrying out a successful breeding programme for threatened species. Fota Island Resort family package from €229 B&B per night. Fota Island Resort, Cork, 021 488 3700; fotaisland.ie
e costume department that Latest frill from the mega-star Regency mansion, Ballyfin in Co Laois? An inhous o), to have their photo taken decks guests out in period finery (courtesy of the Lyric Opera Company in Chicag and attend, suitably attired, a lavish banquet. Book now, ballyfin.com 10 |
september 2012
Whatever’s next, since 1843. This iconic building on Dublin’s Henry Street is Ireland’s largest and longest established department store. Arnotts is home to the world’s best in beauty, fashion for men and women, homewares, all the latest in technology and Ireland’s largest and loveliest shoe department, The Shoe Garden. There are several places to eat, including Clodagh’s Kitchen, in which everything is homemade by celebrity chef Clodagh McKenna. In other words, Arnotts is more than just shopping. It is an experience.
Shop online www.arnotts.ie Arnotts, 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1 / 01 805 0400
Like us on Facebook! ‘Arnotts Department Store’
Follow us on Twitter! ‘@arnottsdublin’
NEWS RESTAURANT
Food File
From an old world cellar in Dublin to a creative eating space in Paris, Eoin Higgins takes a bite.
BAGOTS HUTTON, DUBLIN
Located in one of Dublin’s oldest wine cellars, the Bagots Hutton brand has been resurrected by a couple of cheeky chappies who have been stalwarts of the hip hospitality scene on South William Street for a number of years … so, nonchalant customers and hairstyles that have been tousled just-so? … of course, but you will also find friendly staff and some interesting social types hanging out in this cavernous, subterranean den. Food is served á la Danny DeVito: it’s a short offering with Italian roots – think quality antipasti plates and some well-considered bruschetta. The real star of the show, however, is vinous; there are 30 well-chosen Old World tipples available by the glass or, if you’re feeling particularly felicitous, the bottle. 28 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 534 3956
POK POK NY, NEW YORK
PHOTOGrAPH COurTeSY OF myparisianLiFe.com
representing Portland, Oregon, in the Big Apple, Thai food maverick Andy ricker’s Pok Pok has recently set out its mouth-watering stall on the gritty streets of Brooklyn. The most gush-inducing items on the menu are the fish sauce chicken wings and a creative take on Som Tam, the popular Thai green papaya salad. That said, the menu is so full of exotic delights – from the sweet and sour drinking vinegars to the Chiang Mai sausage – it’s hard to find something that doesn’t stimulate the taste buds, or the imagination. Pok Pok does not take reservations and, due to the buzz surrounding its recent opening, you can expect to wait up to two hours for a table during busiest times. But if Southeast Asian is your thing, it’s worth the wait. 127 Columbia Street, Brooklyn, New York, +1 718 923 9322; pokpokny.com AER LINGUS FLIeS FrOM DuBLIN TO NEW YORK DAILY AND FrOM SHANNON TO NEW YORK, MON, WeD AND FrI.
THE LEDBURY, LONDON
A Michelin two-star in fashionable Notting Hill, the Ledbury’s dining room is elegant, aloof and, if we’re being honest, a touch clinical; thankfully though, the food is warm, rich and comforting. It’s a juxtaposition that works very well. For those on a budget, the £30 set lunch menu comprising two courses (£35 for three) is wonderful value. If, on the other hand, you’ve had a splendid day on the markets, you will not be disappointed by giving the á la carte an airing. The output from Aussie chef Brett Graham, right – who cut his teeth in Sydney under the infamously short-fused Irish chef, Liam Tomlin – is thought-provoking without messing about too much with the “modern French” canon. 127 Ledbury road, Notting Hill, London, +44 207 792 9090; theledbury.com AER LINGUS FLIeS FrOM DuBLIN, SHANNON, COrk AND BeLFAST TO LONDON HEATHROW DAILY.
WANDERLUST, PARIS
The studiously contrived (as well as the traditionally styled) Parisian hipster has claimed a substantial stake in the crowd at Wanderlust. From the Daniel Clowes-illustrated accessories, see above, to the Jakob+MacFarlane architecture, this place screams “Le Cool!” But don’t let that put you off your brunch. This new offering from the snazzy Savoir Faire Group in the 13th arrondissement should please most, if not all, open-minded diners. Not exclusively a restaurant, Wanderlust is also billed as a “creative space” where open-air cinema, a chill-out zone, table tennis, and yoga classes are á la mode … in the kitchen, ambitious young chef, Benjamin Darnaud, carries on the Le Fooding guide’s anarchic approach to French culinary traditions. Open Wednesday to Sunday, 12pm to 6am. 32 Quai d’Austerlitz, 75013 Paris; wanderlustparis.com AER LINGUS FLIeS FrOM DuBLIN AND COrk TO PARIS DAILY.
Stephen Gibson from Dublin restaurant Salud! To mark its 150-year anniversary, Bacardi has teamed up with chef mouth-watering tipples – served Pichet to develop a gastronomically-complementary cocktail offering. The exclusively at Pichet – are a meal-enhancing €10 a pop; pichetrestaurant.ie
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September 2012
BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS
THE LARGEST IRISH SHOP IN THE WORLD
Blarney Woollen Mills, Blarney, Co. Cork, Ireland Blarney Woollen Mills,Bunratty, Co. Clare, Ireland Blarney Woollen Mills, Dove Hill, Carrick on Suir, Co. Tipperary, Ireland shop online at www.blarney.com
NEWS SHOPPING
Gadgets TO GO
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Go a little green and reduce your carbon footprint with Sive O’Brien’s pick of eco-friendly travel accessories.
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1 COLLAPSABLE WATER BOTTLES Aquatina, €6.50 (for two) at nigelsecostore.com 2 H2O-POWERED RADIO €44 at mossenvy. com 3 THE ETHICAL TRAVEL GUIDE Tourism Concern, €16.99 at amazon.co.uk 4 SOLAR CHARGER Powermonkey Extreme, €129 at doyourbit.ie 5 WATER POWERED LCD ATOMIC CLOCK €30.99 at smartenergystore.ie 6 SUSTAINABLE ORGANIC BAG Millican, €128, homeofmillican.com 7 HYBRID CHARGER Solio, €84.95 at siopaeile. com 8 SOLAR KINDLE COVER €83 at amazon.co.uk 9 SOLAR DAB RADIO Roberts, €120 at littlewoodsireland.ie 10 ECO MEDIA PLAYER €128 at clairesecostore.co.uk.
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SEPTEMBER 2012
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Tissot T-Race €409
ck minimal €154
Swatch Acid Drop €78
Longines Saint Imier €3063
Tax savings for all passengers
e: dublin.hourpassion@ir.swatchgroup.com t: +353 (0)1 9446463 www.hourpassiondublin.com
NEWS BUSINESS TRAVEL
Smart TRAVELLER
Looking for business hotspots in London or lunch in Stockholm? Lisa Hughes is clued in.
LITTLE BLACK BOOK LONDON As head of media and artist relations for EMI, music buff Pete Murphy travels around Ireland regularly on business but also internationally. His favourite city for business is one famed for its music biz and popular with business travellers – London. London is great for business travel because … The transport links are excellent. Everywhere is very accessible. Traffic can be a bit punishing at times but, being a Dubliner, I’m well used to that! A good place for business meetings … The Covent Garden Hotel (firmdalehotels. com) is in a great location or the Mandarin Oriental (mandarinoriental.com) in Knightsbridge is also really good. Business lunch … For a relaxed lunch, my favourite eatery in London is Busaba Eathai (busaba.com) on Wardour Street, in Soho. It’s a Thai restaurant and the fish curry is heavenly. E&O in Notting Hill/Ladbroke Grove (rickerrestaurants.com) is another great Thai spot. Business drinks … Steer away from the chain/brewery pubs, in favour of free houses.
The Stag on Fleet Road in Belsize Park is particularly fine. I’m a fan of the Porterhouse Pubs, so the Covent Garden one generally gets a visit, and The Clifton on Clifton Hill in St John’s Wood is recommended too. Best business hotel … I usually stay in the K West (k-west.co.uk) in Shepherd’s Bush. I also really like The Arch on Great Cumberland Place, near Marble Arch (thearchlondon.com). Tipping? I stick to the 10 per cent rule. Budget business travel tip … Pre-book things such as the Heathrow Express (heathrowexpress.com) and getting an Oyster Card will never let you down. Doing business in London for the first time … The number one rule is plan ahead as much as possible. Don’t leave anything to chance. If you’re going
to be in a long meeting, stay hydrated. Also, leave yourself some leisure time to enjoy what London has to offer. It’s a great city and we sometimes take it for granted, given its close proximity. On your downtime … There are so many museums, galleries and places of interest that you could visit for years and never exhaust them. I’m an avid music collector, so I can usually be found in Revival Records or Sister Ray Records on Berwick Street in Soho, or Music and Video Exchange in Notting Hill, when I have a spare hour or two.
The days of needing two hands to type emails, texts or navigate the web on your smart phone are over thanks to FlyGrip. This lightweight device frees up one hand so you use only your thumb to navigate and also serves as an in-flight entertainment stand. FlyGrip is compatible with most mobile devices; $29.95 at flygrip.com.
SEPTEMBER 2012
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LISA ELMQVIST One of Stockholm’s best-loved seafood restaurants, Lisa Elmqvist is known for fresh dishes using hand-picked ingredients from the sea. Seventy-fi ve years in business, this thriving Seventy-five restaurant is a very Stockholm experience, particularly as it is housed in Östermalm Hall so it’s great for people-watching. (Östermalms Saluhall, +46 855 340 400; lisaelmqvist.se lisaelmqvist.se) KURA CAFÉ If a laid-back café for an informal chat is what you’re after, here it is. Kura brings a touch of New Zealand to Sweden, with friendly baristas, excellent coff ee and attentive coffee service to boot. As for food, it’s all about the sourdough sandwiches and superfood salads. (Torsgatan 31, +46 832 8823; kura.se) SEA BAR & RESTAURANT At the Nordic Sea Hotel’s Sea Bar & Restaurant, the seasonal flavours of Sweden take centre stage. Try Stockholm’s biggest prawn sandwich or the special business lunch menu for SEK 185 (about €22) for a main, a salad ... and a surprise! (Nordic Sea Hotel, Vasaplan 4, +46 850 563 508; nordicseahotel.se) KOL & KOX This classic Italian restaurant manages to be both pared back and atmospheric, with stained-glass ceilings and candlelight. With a dedicated business lunch menu, you can nab a flavoursome main course from SEK 180 (about €21). A reliable favourite. (Olofsgatan 7 A, +46 824 5860; kolkox.se) AMARENTEN Cherry pick from the tasty à la carte menu and treat your clients or colleagues to a cocktail from the funky bar. This airy restaurant is an intimate setting for lunch, with tables of four dotting the room and artwork by illustrator Pelle Mattsson bringing the walls to life. (Kungsholmsgatan 31, +46 869 399 60; amaranten.se)
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NEWS PEOPLE
What’s in my suitcase As a stylist, designer, RTE’s Off the Rails front woman and founder of global not-for-profit initiative Dress for Success Dublin, Sonya Lennon’s fashion credentials are impeccable. She tells Suzie Coen about the sartorial favourites that feature in her travel wardrobe.
SUNGLASSES Thierry Lasry, €342 at matchesfashion.com
FRINGED KNIT JACKET Tim Ryan, €1,670 at avenue32.com TOM FORD APHRODISIAC LIPSTICK €46 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2
DRAPED JERSEY DRESS Roland Mouret, €670 from Costume, 10 Castle Market, Dublin 2; costumedublin.ie
BOWERBIRD NECKLACE limited edition, Melissa Curry, €440 at Havana, 2 Anglesea House, Dublin 4; havanaboutique.ie
CAMERA Canon PowerShot SX240 HS, €349 at Conns Cameras, 54 Clarendon Street, Dublin 2; connscameras.ie
DARK CHERRY SHOES Stella McCartney, €540 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2
LEATHER CLUTCH Pauric Sweeney, €730 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2
CHANEL UV ESSENTIEL SPF 50 €45.70 at Harvey Nichols, Dundrum Town Centre, Sandyford Road, Dublin 16; harveynichols.com
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SEPTEMBER 2012
CASHMERE SCARF Sian Jacobs, €249 at Liberties, The Quay, Westport, Co Mayo; sianjacobs.com
LEATHER SKINNY TROUSERS Alexander McQueen, €1,995 at net-a-porter.com
WHERE LEGEND LIVES
Book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com and get 10% off adult tickets. Guinness Storehouse®, St James’s Gate, Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800
The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and associated logos are trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2012
Visit the magical home of GUINNESS in Dublin.
STRAP NEWS PEOPLE
On my Travels International cricketer Trent Johnston talks to Suzie Coen about assertive driving in Bangladesh; herding sheep in Australia; hitting winning runs in Jamaica – and also divulges a hidden talent. Australian-born Trent Johnston’s fast bowling career began in New South Wales, before he chose to play for Ireland on the international stage. After his debut against Surrey in 2004, the right-arm speedster soon made a name for himself in Ireland’s setup. Johnston went on to captain Ireland for 60 games and played a pivotal role in the side’s success at the 2007 ICC Cricket World Cup, culminating in a famous victory over Pakistan. GROWING UP IN AUSTRALIA, MY FAVOURITE HOLIDAYS … Were spent at my great aunt and uncle’s farm in Junee, which is around 400 kilometres west of my home town of Wollongong, New South Wales. Carefree days revolved around riding our bikes, driving old Holden Utes and herding sheep and cattle. IT’S HARD TO PICK JUST ONE BEAUTIFUL SPOT IN AUSTRALIA … I’d recommend any place in NSW – I call it God’s country. My top five must-sees are: the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Opera House, the Great Barrier Reef, Uluru (Ayers Rock) and the Great Ocean Road. When I retire, I’ve promised to buy the camper van and tour the country properly.
I FELL IN LOVE WITH CRICKET … From the moment I was born. Cricket is a religion in Oz, something similar to the GAA in Ireland. All my spare time in the summer was spent playing cricket, with friends, family and neighbours. I remember playing in the road with two rubbish bins as stumps and a taped-up tennis ball – great times. MY CHILDHOOD HEROES WERE … Malcolm Marshall and Desmond Haynes, two West Indian legends. They played hard and fast and were unstoppable in their era. IT’S ALWAYS EXCITING TO PLAY CRICKET IN THE CARIBBEAN … Every island has its own unique vibe and I’ve been incredibly
3 Top SporTing EvEnTS ...
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THE ROAD CYCLING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS is held in the Dutch province of Limburg this year, an area considered by many to be the cycling El Dorado of the Netherlands, full not only of elite cyclists but recreational ones too. Routes of varying degrees of difficulty are mapped and signposted for your convenience. Runs September 15-23. uci.ch
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THE LISTOWEL RACES take place in the hometown of playwright John B Keane. The 154th race meeting promises serious racing and serious fun. Besides the thrill of the races — and a flutter — expect music, the best dressed man competition, Ladies Day and children’s amusements. Runs September 16-22. Tickets ¤20, under 16s free; listowelraces.ie
lucky to visit a few of them. Great people, great weather and they love their cricket. India is another gem to visit. There’s such energy about the country – the people are so friendly and so appreciative of life. Of course, it helps that I like Indian food, unlike some of my team mates who suffer when we’re on tour there! MY PROUDEST CRICKET MOMENT WAS … Captaining Ireland in the 2007 ICC World Cup when we beat Pakistan. It still gives me goosebumps when I remember the moment; being able to share it with family and friends in Kingston, Jamaica, was extra special. WHEN ON TOUR, I ALWAYS BRING … My hair clippers. I’m generally the barber for the team. “Hair Today Gone Tomorrow” is what the boys call my styling enterprise. I keep it simple and specialise in full head shaves and mohawks. GOING ON SAFARI IN SOUTH AFRICA … Was exhilarating but nothing compared to the heart-racing experience of navigating a tour bus around Bangladesh. The roads are sheer chaos and driving aggressively is, apparently, the only way to survive. THE NICEST TRIP IS … Always the one home to Dublin. After a long tour away, just to see my wife Vee and the kids is great. They all manage to bring me down to earth straight away. And, funnily enough, there’s always a long DIY list. WHEN THE SUN SHINES, THERE’S NOWHERE BETTER TO BE THAN … The west of Ireland. I was on holidays there recently with my family and we got great weather, which made our trip to Kylemore Abbey, the Cliffs of Moher and the Aran Islands such a joy.
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THE GREAT RIVER RACE in London sees over 300 crews from around the world competing. However, organisers don’t forget the fun rowers. Handicaps are awarded on a slowest first, fastest last basis making sure everyone starts off on an equal footing. The course races up the Thames, passing landmarks like Tower Bridge along the way. September 15. greatriverrace.co.uk
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NEWS BEAUTY
BeautyON THE GO
The combination of sea and sun can be hard on your hair. Ellie Balfe looks at top products to treat your tresses.
THR PHOTOG RAPH BY IMAX
EE
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Kérastase Huile Céleste, €24.30, is shimmering, light hair oil containing both UVA and UVB filters, as well as reflective micro particles to add a touch of glamour to your poolside pose. It is also great for slicking back your hair at night. Chlorine and salt are the enemies of hair colour but Aveda’s Sun Care hair and body cleanser, €20.50, is a willing warrior to your colour preservation cause. It removes minerals found in chlorinated pool water that can cause discoloration and the 100 per cent organic
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ingredients help to remove salt and product build up. Sometimes sunparched hair just needs TLC. Stressed, dry, dull hair is made lustrous again after a few
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applications of the Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Mask, Mask €38. Five minutes is all that is required of this argan-oil-rich formula to bring back condition, shine and manageability. It’s exactly the welcome home your postholiday hair needs. Spritz the cult product, Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray, Spray €24.90, liberally through damp hair and let it dry naturally for a sexy, beachy, matte look. It’s also great for spraying hair pre-plait so that, on release, it turns into perfectly tousled, surfer girl waves.
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WHAT’S THE BUZZ? Monart, the five-star destination resort in Enniscorthy, Co Wexford, has added Chinese acupuncture to its stellar line-up of treatments.
t.ie Not only does it help rebalance energy but it works wonders for the stressed; monar
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The Oribe Après Beach Wave and Shine Spray, €37, is designed to add texture as well as shine – but what really makes this a stand-out product is the use of exotic oils to ensure continuous moisture levels as well as styling to perfection. Sometimes the best protection against strong sun is a physical one, so find a great hat or turban – or sip some cocktails in
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the shade! But when venturing out again, the Wella Professionals Sun Protection Spray, €13.75, is another high performance product that offers many treatment benefits for your hair as well as providing a shield to damaging UV rays. Don’t forget your scalp either – massage it in as you apply.
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Whether you’re dipping into the pool or swimming in the sea, your hair’s condition is constantly being challenged and in dire need of a revitalising, waterproof shield. Kérastase AquaSeal, €24.30, does exactly that. Protecting against UV rays as well as water aggressors – salt, chlorine – it improves the texture, smoothes, and adds shine.
MY BEAUTY MUSTS International make-up artist, Lisa Eldridge,, works with the world’s top fashion magazines and celebrities for red-carpet events. She reveals her beauty tips for travelling. WHAT IS YOUR BEAUTY REGIME WHEN FLYING? I turn any plane journey into a spa oppportunity. People who sit beside me must think I’m strange but I don’t care! First, I apply some Phyto 7 leave-in hair conditioner throughout my hair and tie it back. Then I take off my make-up using cleansing water. I pat Eau de Beauté by Caudalie onto my skin and then I begin to apply two masks: Sisley Express Flower Gel is super firming, and Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque moisturises. I then apply eye serum and Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream to my lips and cuticles. A layer of handcream is the final stage and then I either sit back to watch a film or pop my sleep mask on and try to get some sleep. DO YOU DO THIS ON ALL FLIGHTS? Yes, it’s not all essential to do on a short flight obviously, it’s a good excuse to treat yourself and do treatments that you might forget to do normally. If I’m flying long haul to the other side of the world I will do the regime twice. AND BEFORE LANDING, WHAT DO YOU DO? I nip to the loo and take off the remnants of the masks and clean my teeth. Then, when back in my seat, I apply moisturiser all over and liquid concealer under my eyes and to any spots to even out my skin. Some coloured lip balm is the final touch and I feel brighter and my skin looks supple and glowy. I really believe in this regime. It’s a bit of a rigmarole but it’s a nice ritual and the protective shield provided by all these products is a moisture magnet to stop skin de-hydrating. TOP TRAVEL TIP? Drink plenty of water!
NEWS BOOKS
Shelf LIFE
From travel essays to novels by Zadie Smith and Marian Keyes: Bridget Hourican previews the latest titles. » FICTION
» FICTION
NW by Zadie Smith (Hamish Hamilton, £18.99) out September 6. Smith’s fourth novel, and her first in seven years, is set in London. The NW of the title is northwest London, where Smith was born and raised. It features four thirtysomething characters – two male, two female – who are former friends from one of the area’s housing estates and now inhabiting very different worlds. Expect sharp views on class and race, and contemporary prose classically framed. Smith’s last book, On Beauty, was framed by EM Forster; this one is framed by Virginia Woolf apparently.
» TRAVEL
The Mystery of The Condé Mercy Close by Nast Traveler Marian Keyes, Book of (Michael Unforgettable Joseph, £18.99), Journeys: out September Volume 2: 13. Marian Great Writers Keyes returns on Great Places with one of (Penguin, her funny, £10.23). TRAVEL soul-searching books that keep Fantastic collection of essays BUG being marketed as chick-lit matching great writers to but are much darker and surprising places – Edna Travel writing fans should edgier than is usual for O’Brien doesn’t write about check out the Dolman Travel that genre: Helen Walsh Ireland but about Bath; Book Award (September 5). The is a private investigator Robert Hughes looks at shortlist includes books on Tibet, at a crossroads in her life. Italy rather than Australia; Italy, Sussex and South America There’s a police investigation Edmund White goes by some of the best up-and– the disappearance of a top to Jordan. There are also coming travel writers. Irish boy band member – but, accounts of beautiful gardens as ever with Keyes, the bigger in Japan and the best free mystery is what’s going on inside the things to do in Provence. Edited unravelling minds of the characters. by Klara Glowczewska.
of the Town, begin on September 27 at Previews for multi award-winning author, Emma Donoghue’s new play, The Talk work of pioneering writer Maeve Brennan Project Arts Centre, in Dublin’s Temple Bar. The play is inspired by the life and theatrefestival.com who left 1950s Dublin for the glitz and glamour of New York literary circles; dublin
Who’s reading what?
WHAT ARE YOU READING? “I’m working through a couple of books, among them The Daughter of Time by Josephine Tey, which was recommended by so many female authors for the anthology I’ve just edited that I felt I had to try it. It’s very good – and short. As I become more aware of my mortality, I become increasingly grateful for short books. Once that’s done, it’s on to Black Skies by Arnaldur Indridason.” WHERE ARE YOU READING IT? “I still read in bed most evenings, but I find that increasingly I’m falling asleep after a couple of pages. Now
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I try to take a little time out during the day in a coffee shop to read, often Simon’s Place on Dublin’s South Great George’s Street.” FAVOURITE PLACE TO VISIT? “I’m still in love with Portland, Maine. It’s got bookstores, galleries, decent bars and restaurants, and a Museum of Cryptozoology. What more could you want?” BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON HOLIDAY? “I think big books are best for holidays, so I’ve used long flights to get into George R.R. Martin, who I don’t think I’d have read otherwise. Oh, and Dickens. You need to set aside some time for
Dickens just to get into him, so long flights and holidays are ideal for a bit of Bleak House. Not Hard Times, though. Life’s too short for Hard Times.” THE BOOK YOU WISHED YOU HADN’T TAKEN ON HOLIDAY? “I have to be careful here, but on a long flight back from Australia I once found myself reading a thriller that a bookseller had pressed on me, a thriller that actually used the words ‘one thousand of your earth years’ within the first ten pages. It was the only book I had with me. I wanted to throw the book, or myself, out of the plane somewhere over Asia ...”
PHOTOGRAPH BY MARK CONDREN
Thriller writer John Connolly thinks big books are best on trips.
The Wrath of Angels is published by Hodder & Stoughton in hardcover at £17.99. Books to Die For, edited by John and Declan Burke, is published by Hodder & Stoughton at £25.
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NEWS DIARY
Fringe Benefits
Dublin’s Absolut Fringe festival promises uplifting contemporary theatre. Edel Coffey reports on the highlights.
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hey call it the “dream factory” and anyone who has ever had even the slightest contact with Dublin’s Absolut Fringe festival will know why. The Fringe turns Dublin into a kind of wonderland, a skewed sort of place filled with top hats and fishnet tights, an alternative universe that vanishes as quickly as it appears, like a puff of magician’s smoke. This year marks the festival’s 18th birthday but, thankfully, it doesn’t show any signs of growing up. Róise Goan is festival director and describes the Fringe as uniquely Irish. “It has an urban attitude and is all about celebrating with people from diverse backgrounds. We’re always looking for something new and stories that strike a chord.” While the Fringe is always
carnivalesque fun, it can be offputting to the uninitiated, with its interactive and more avant-garde pieces. “People shouldn’t be afraid,” says Goan. “They might think it’s going to be crazy, wacky and that they’ll be held hostage in a theatre for two hours, but it’s hugely accessible and in a language people will understand.” One such work is Flåtpäck, an opera based on the era-defining experience known as Ikea. If the word “opera” makes you itchy, composer Tom Lane’s latest work is not opera as you know it. The structure is like a trip to Ikea (only much more pleasurable), in that you are guided along with a set of instructions. The opera takes place throughout five furnished rooms, and the audience moves through the
3 of the best culture fests ...
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WILLIAM BUTLER YEATS, SON OEUVRE, SA FAMILLE The Centre Culturel Irlandais in Paris is running a WB Yeats festival throughout September and October. One event not to miss is The Poetry Hour on September 18 when a host of luminaries, including Charlotte Rampling, left, will read Yeats’ work as a tribute to the late writer Josephine Hart. centreculturelirlandais.com
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One to watch — from the folks behind the electro-musical Alice in Funderland, comes their latest play Elevator, starring Conor Madden.
ELECTRIC PICNIC The laid-back music festival in Stradbally, Co Laois, on August 31 -September 2, reaches the grand old age of eight this year and features performances by The Cure, The Killers and Elbow, among others. Aside from great music, there is fun to be had loafing around the smaller stages, watching comedians and authors, poets and politicians in the spoken word tents. electricpicnic.ie
different rooms, with some scenes taking place simultaneously. The libretto is made up entirely of the names of Ikea products. While it sounds like no opera I’ve ever heard of, director Conor Hanratty says it does respect the traditions of the form. “Tom’s piece plays with the rules rather than breaks them.” And the inspiration for the music? Aptly enough, it came from a hand mixer ... Flåtpäck is just one of about 525 events taking place in more than 40 venues over the 16 days of the Fringe … so what should the Fringe novice see? Goan advises seeing more than one thing. “The shows aren’t longer than an hour and the tickets are cheap. I would recommend an Australian cabaret show called Briefs in Meeting House Square and THISISPOPBABY’s Elevator, their follow up to Alice in Funderland. For the more urbane traveller, Singlehood by Una McKevitt is a documentary theatre piece featuring real people and real lives on stage, looking at being single in Dublin in 2012 and Farm, a piece in a warehouse in the Docklands, which is about looking at the tensions between urban and rural life and how three generations ago everyone in Dublin was ... growing our own food and being sustainable.” Whatever you choose to see at the Fringe, it will definitely be something different. And when the festival packs up and leaves town, you might wonder if it was all a dream. Absolut Fringe 2012 runs from September 8-23; fringefest.com
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WARSAW FILM FESTIVAL, WARSAW, POLAND The Warsaw Film Festival in Poland takes place October 12–21 and is widely considered to be one of the most significant film festivals in Europe after Cannes. Its initial aim was to expose its inhabitants to international cinema towards the end of Communism in Poland. Today it is considered a good barometer for Oscar winners. wff.pl
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The Taste of Success An army of foodies from both sides of the Irish Sea meets in Dublin this month. It’s all part of an exciting new trade initiative. Ben Webb reports.
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he British and the Irish may have a healthy rivalry on the Six Nations rugby pitch – or any sport, for that matter – but when it comes to the business of trading between the countries, there is no doubt they are firmly on the same side. To help boost each other’s economy, they simply want to do more business together. That’s why A Taste of Britain, a two-day trade development event organised by UK Trade & Investment, is to be held in Dublin on September 26-27. Some 600 Irish buyers – the powerful men and women who choose what ends up on supermarket shelves – and distributors have been invited to enjoy an impressive spread of British fare. It’s part of a new export drive designed to help smaller companies overcome some of the logistical hurdles they face when trading internationally. Mind you, it’s already something of a success story. The UK exports more food and drink to Ireland each year than to any other country – more, believe it or not, than it exports to Brazil, Russia, India and China combined. And it’s very much a two-way street, with trade between the two countries topping €1 billion a week, according to UK Trade & Investment. But there’s more to be done. In a joint statement issued by the Taoiseach and British Prime Minister last March, the agrifood business was identified as a key
area for cooperation between the two countries. Both countries are blessed with an amazing array of food producers and manufacturers and are keen to expand their export business. John Reid, managing partner at O’Rourke Reid, one of the sponsors alongside Aer Lingus, says, “Britain is our largest trading partner and O’Rourke Reid Law Firm is proud to sponsor this important initiative to enhance the existing strong trade relationship between us in this key sector.” So red carpets are being rolled out in welcome. The British ambassador, Dominick Chilcott, will kick off the event at the embassy in Dublin and there will be keynote speeches from the likes of Tesco and Bord Bia. One of the companies for whom Ireland is the land of opportunity is Hawkshead Relish, makers of award-winning artisan preserves, who are looking for a distributor as transportation costs are high for a small company. “Ireland offers great potential for British companies as culinary tastes are of a similar ilk,” explained marketing manager Kate Nicholson. “Speciality cuisine is very much relished within our joint cultures in which regional provenance is admired. The UK’s regional produce offers further provincial identity and variety to what our two great nations collectively have to offer in the very best of speciality food.”
UK artisan food producers will meet Irish buyers at this month’s A Taste of Britain event.
3 IrIsh food companIes the BrItIsh would love ...
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For bread – arbutus bread From classic baguettes and sourdoughs to Turkish flatbread, Declan Ryan’s awardwinning artisan bakery turns out unbeatable treats. Ryan spent time in France working with the local baker in the town where he has a cottage. One of his latest contracts is to export huge batches of his prized baguettes to … France. arbutusbread.com
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For conFectionary – Pandora bell This producer’s nougat and lollipops, fudge and salted butter caramels are utterly delicious and beautifully packaged works of art. Founder Nicole Dunphy uses traditional recipes and only the very best ingredients, including natural colourings and flavours. Even the size zeros at Vogue have given her the thumbs-up. pandorabell.ie
The best of Irish food will be on show during store visits to Fallon & Byrne, Avoca, Donnybrook Fair and Superquinn in Ranelagh. But this is Dublin and so delegates must expect a classic Irish welcome, with dinner to be enjoyed at an array of wonderful restaurants – Pichet, Roly’s, Ely and Rustic Stone. It promises to be a winwin occasion for the British and Irish food industries. “The UK and Ireland are very important markets to each other,” declares Ambassador Chilcott. “The links between our two countries have never been stronger.” Visit britishembassyinireland.fco.gov.uk for further information on A Taste of Britain and event details.
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For tea – nood The Irish are champion tea drinkers, so when a new Irish company starts up, it’s time to take notice. NOOD tea is real leafy tea rather than the dusty disappointments you often find. As co-founder Sean Moran says: “We could tell you that our teas are picked with golden scissors in the right phase of the moon, but we let our very leafy tea leaves speak for themselves.” nood-world.com
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TOP
Scorer
Playing Gaelic football for Dublin was all Bernard Brogan ever wanted to do. The team’s chief scorer tells Ger Gilroy what winning an All Ireland final means and how he values bonding with his teammates more than any personal glory. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.
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hatting with Bernard Brogan for a while leaves you with three striking images. One is the footballer as a starry-eyed kid following his da, Bernard Senior – a brilliant footballer himself in the golden era of the Dubs – around the city as he’d meet former teammates, the young mind collapsing into daydreams of winning All Ireland gaelic football championships. The next one is Bernard Brogan, trainee
accountant studying for exams, the day after last year’s All Ireland semi-final, when the Dublin team reached their first final since 1995. He’s unable to concentrate thinking of the fantasy-becoming-reality of matching his da’s achievements. The final image is the one everyone sees in Croker, and it’s a curious mixture of the first two. It’s Bernard Brogan the cold-eyed striker, footballer of the year in 2010, where he’s perplexing defences, injecting pace and loving it all – living out his dreams.
I met him two days after the All Ireland quarter-final against Laois in this year’s championship, when things hadn’t gone that well for him as an individual but, as part of the collective, it had been a successful outing. They’d won a game they’d been expected to win, but only just. So do you still love football? He laughs: “Yeah, I do and I have said it before, I play football because I love it. I’ve played it since I was five years of age and to play for Dublin is a huge honour. When it starts to
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become a chore to go out to training or to the gym on a Tuesday night that’s when I’ll give it up. It doesn’t always go your way on the pitch but you can’t beat it, it’s everything I’ve always wanted to do.” For the uninitiated, Dublin are one of the most scrutinised Gaelic football teams in the country, amateur in name but professional in all other respects, apart from pay and time to rest between games. At 28 years old, their scorer-in-chief, Bernard Brogan, is one of their most high-profile players. His older brother Alan wrestled the Player of the Year title from Bernard last year and their little brother Paul is a sub on the team. It’s a GAA dynasty. What about when real life impinges though? For all the professional backroom teams, endless preparation, media hype and the endorsement deals, it’s still not actually a job – the bank won’t accept Gaelic footballer in the occupation slot on a mortgage application. “I’m just finishing off my accountancy exams – they’re not easy ones, so I’m trying to get a bit of study done. The exams are coming up in September – the week after the All Ireland semifinal [against Mayo]. It’ll be very difficult to try and study.” He had exams last year too, a few days after playing the All Ireland semi-final against Donegal. “I went home to try and do a bit of study, knackered after the game, with the euphoria of getting into our first All Ireland final. But I couldn’t study. I said I’ll go to bed early and be grand tomorrow and do a bit. Got up on the Monday and all day [was] just sitting at my desk thinking about the game. So I hadn’t studied for five days heading into the start of the exams – not the most ideal preparation.” It would be easy to call a halt to the exams and concentrate on the fripperies of being a celebrity, to reap the bounty of being an All Ireland winner and make a featherbed of those laurels. His face is on billboards across the city and during the ad breaks at the Olympics he’s been there on TV with Henry Shefflin, possibly our greatest-ever hurler, and
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Bernard Brogan, part of a GAA dynasty, his father won three All Irelands, his older brother Alan was last year’s Player of the Year, and younger brother Paul is a sub.
Olympic champion Katie Taylor, a freshly minted global phenomenon. It could easily go to your head but Brogan is pretty sure it won’t. “In my house, growing up, following my dad around, everywhere we went he was recognised for similar reasons – he had three All Irelands, an All Star and was on Superstars and he is wellrecognised still. We’d grown up with that and we’d seen it and it kinda inspired us when we saw the respect he got off people and the craic he used to have with people. Then there was the relationship he had with the lads he played football with, the Pat O’Neills and Paddy Cullens of this world. You see it when they meet up, the glint in the eye when you meet a man like that, that you won an All Ireland with. You might never have to say it but you just know, the two of you. It’s a very special thing.” It’s a value system. Perhaps these very values are what allowed Brogan and his teammates to win Dublin’s first All Ireland in 16 seasons last
year in a county where expectation outstrips reality. The perception of the Dublin team over the years of failure from 1995 until last year, rightly or wrongly, was that they were the embodiment of some of the excesses of celebrity culture – famous for being famous, prone to believing their own hype but incapable of standing up to the truly great sides. Last year Brogan and his teammates heaved that gorilla from their shoulders. They no longer have to watch Kerry and Tyrone, the teams of the last decade, party each September with the Sam Maguire Cup and wonder how that feels. Brogan has the same glint in his eye that his dad has. And he deserves it. All Ireland winning seasons usually distil in the public mind to a single incident or a few minutes. Last year’s win for Dublin is down to Stephen Cluxton’s last minute pointed free kick against Kerry that secured a one-point win or, depending on who is speaking, the
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Bernard on his favourite … Book … Back from the Brink by Paul McGrath. I had the chance to meet and chat to him when the Olympic flame was over and he’s just such a gentleman – an unbelievably talented person who has gone through so much. restaurant … Wagamama noodle bars – healthy but nice, a bit of goodness. Bar … Brogan’s Bar on Dame Street, Dublin. CluB … Copper Face Jacks in Harcourt Street, Dublin. CIty … Sydney – it’s a million miles away from home but it’s like being out in Dublin city and there’s the beach and the sun, and a good feel about it. HolIday – BeaCH or CIty? I like the beach; I like Marbella as well, always had good times over there. I bounced around Thailand with Eamo [fellow Dub player, Eamon Fennell] going from island to island and I lived the dream – it was something I always wanted to do. One of my biggest regrets was never going away to do the J1 in the US. Once I got a bit older I was involved in the Dubs and could never get away but, if I could say anything to young lads or young footballers, I’d say try and get away if you can, even over to Thailand or Australia, these places are unbelievable – the people you meet and the stories you have, things you’ll never forget for the rest of your life. MusIC … David Guetta, dance music, techno, dance stuff that gets me going – I listen to it until I see manager Pat Gilroy’s mouth moving at the start of his team talk, and then I take off my earphones. So I’m listening very close to running out on the pitch.
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Bernard Brogan in action during the GAA Football All Ireland Senior Championship quarter-final, Dublin v Laois on August 4 2012.
game and title were won because of the hard running of super-sub Kevin McManamon. In truth the All Ireland win in 2011 was the result of a couple of years of near misses, hard work and endless hours training. The “unglamorous stuff” Brogan calls it – “morning sessions twice a week, up at half six and running laps in the frost and cold, or in the gym, puking at the side of the pitch”. But it sounds like you enjoy that? “Yeah,” he’s smiling, “I like when you go through
certainty that he has done the work required. “If the chance arises again and someone has to be there to take it, I’ll take it – I’ve had some great days with it and I’ve had some poor days with it and I’ll keep going.” Were you always like that, even as a kid? “I always liked being involved in the big plays, the pressure situation, but it’s a team game and you want to win as a team. I’ve had a year where I had a great year – Player of the Year – but no-one to enjoy it
“Having personal glories and great days is all well and good but it’s a team game and you want to win as a team so you can enjoy it as a team.” that kind of torture with people and you become so close to the lads that you’re training with and playing with, lads you hang around with now off the team, they’re like family at this stage. We spend 20 hours a week with them, the bond you get – there’s no better feeling than when you are really empty yourself and a day when it’s lashing rain and it’s cold or icy and you’re mucky, you’re in bits, and everyone comes off the training field having run 50 laps of the pitch. There’s such a sense of satisfaction around the group when everyone has put an honest day’s work in. You can’t beat that feeling, the endorphins it releases after a training session is second to none and that’s what I love about it.” He’s not just a glutton for punishment though. It’s all for a reason. It’s so that if he’s standing over the final ball knowing he has the chance to win the game, he’s got the
with. It’s a team game and you want to win as a team so you can enjoy it as a team. Having personal glories and great days is all well and good but you’re only enjoying it on your own. I’d prefer to be a bit part player and do my bit than kicking eight or nine points a game and not winning the games.” And has life changed much? “The best thing about being an All Ireland winner is the people you do it with and when you can look back in years to come and enjoy the memory of it. You don’t realise it now but it’s such a hard thing and such a hard road but all that hard work is worthwhile in the end.” And he’s got that glint in his eye again ... The All Ireland semi-final, Dublin v Mayo, is held on September 2 at Croke Park. The All Ireland final is on September 23. For more information, visit gaa.ie. Aer Lingus is the official travel partner to Dublin GAA.
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Write
DIRECTION A new guard of Irish writers is attracting serious attention in a rapidly changing literary world. Six of them tell Bridget Hourican about their chosen genres and what inspires their work. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.
A
ccording to the 20th century poet Patrick Kavanagh, “the standing army of Irish poets never falls below ten thousand”. Contemporary writer Declan Burke puts it another way: “I’ve spotted twelve debut Irish crime writers this year alone.” There are probably more unpublished novels in Irish drawers than anywhere else in the world. This may be down to the strength of the literary tradition; it may be down to a propensity for economic recession – during the boom years Michael McLoughlin of Penguin Ireland worried that all the money was inimical to good writing, which thrives in the garret – it may be down to the weather, which John Banville swears is the best in
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the world for writers. (Another way of saying that boredom is the mother of creativity.) The generation of Irish writers – Colm Tóibín, Anne Enright, Sebastian Barry, Pat McCabe, Colum McCann – who for years looked like the Young Turks snapping at the heels of John McGahern and William Trevor, is suddenly, now, the old guard – established writers who have earned the world’s top literary prizes (Booker, IMPAC, Costa, etc). In their place are the new guard, writers in their late thirties and early forties, whose work is beginning to get serious attention. One of the great changes in Irish (and indeed world) writing in recent decades is the movement out of literary fiction towards genres such as sport, chick lit, crime, fantasy, horror and children’s
Kathleen MacMahon
As a debut novelist – who’s been garnering much more media attention than most debuts – Kathleen MacMahon “thanks her lucky stars” for the media experience from her former job as an RTÉ reporter. “Of course it was on the other side of the camera, but just knowing studios and how it all works has been incredibly useful. Otherwise I can imagine it could be terrifying.” Her first novel, This is How it Ends (Sphere), made headlines for the size of the advance (€600,000 in a two-book deal). Luckily it also got great sales and reviews and, despite a heavy summer of festivals and promotions, she has almost finished her second book. “The working title is Learning Backwards. It’s set in Ireland but about people who’ve spent a lot of time living abroad. It’s about a marriage and that moment of wondering is it a success – so it’s not as romantic as the last one.” This is How it Ends was set against the backdrop of the collapse of Lehman Brothers and the Obama election. The new book has the backdrop of the rescue of the Chilean miners and the Arab Spring. “For me, news roots a story and gives me a framework.” She lives in Sandymount in Dublin and, after dropping her twin daughters at school and walking the dogs on the strand, writes at the kitchen table. What she loves about writing is “the quiet, being in my own space and being free to just make it all up”.
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people
Declan Burke
Declan Burke had two books out last month: Slaughter’s Hound (Liberties Press), his fourth novel and set in his native Sligo, is what he calls “straight, hard-boiled crime, a filthy, grimy slice of noir”, and Books to Die For (Hodder & Stoughton), which he co-edited with John Connolly – a collection of essays by the world’s greatest living crime and mystery writers on their favourite crime novels. The two projects showcase Burke’s gifts – as writer and as editor/ evangelist for crime writing. His blog, Crime Always Pays, is the first port of call for those seeking info on Irish crime writing. Last year he again had two books out as novelist and editor – Down these Green Streets is a collection of essays by Irish crime writers; Absolute Zero Cool is a hilarious, prize-winning, tongue-incheek take on the crime genre, which has more in common with Flann O’Brien’s The Third Policeman than with The Silence of the Lambs. Burke, who now lives in Wicklow and has a small daughter, has a day job as a freelance journalist, and, yes, he finds it demanding juggling the jobs of novelist, journalist, editor and unofficial spokesman for Irish crime writing: “I wrote Slaughter’s Hound between 5am and 7am but that was taxing. For the next book I’ll try 9pm to midnight”. His great strengths are his humour, freshness of approach and his understanding of the constraints of his chosen genre – which means he can play around with them when he wants.
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fiction. John Connolly, Marian Keyes, Eoin Colfer – these names are now as recognisable, and their sales are larger, than the old literary guard, and, of course, writers like John Banville/ Benjamin Black are having it both ways. This change is reflected in our chosen panel of writers, which runs the gamut from crime to short stories to ghost-writing. The Berlin-based Irish writer, Julian Gough, complained recently that Irish writing is all “funeral in the rain” dirges set in the past, but he must be talking about a very narrow terrain. The writers on our list have written dystopias, satire, romance, supernatural, financial fiction; the setting isn’t always Ireland and the main impetus is to entertain, not to be compared with Joyce. These writers are very different, but similar in their humour, playfulness and flexibility. All express impatience about the idea of false divides, hierarchies and barriers between literary forms. Kevin Barry talks of “rotating crops” as he goes “back and forth between short stories, novels, screenplays, graphic stories”. Of course, these writers are operating in a new and different climate. Anonymous online reader reviews have taken the place of peer reviews from the Irish Times, TLS and the Guardian. Fans are blogging, tweeting and Facebooking their preferences. In an age of diminishing advances from publishers, literary festivals have become as important to writers as concerts are to musicians. Writers who work their readings like actors have a huge advantage. TV is no longer hackwork – everyone recognises it’s where some of the best writing is. The rise of eReaders may be of concern to publishers, but writers are taking the development in their stride. Have they considered the devastation pirated downloads could wreak on the industry? Declan Burke says calmly, “there’s always been, and always will be narrative, no matter how it’s delivered”. Advances, blurbs, paperbacks, literary prizes – if they go up in smoke, the standing army will find new artillery, as long as there are readers. And readers there certainly are – check out the festivals or the blogosphere – and in greater numbers than ever …
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Claire Kilroy
Claire Kilroy’s fourth novel, The Devil I Know, just released from Faber & Faber, deals head-on with the collapse of the Celtic Tiger. The setting is futuristic: a tribunal or truth commission in 2016, asking questions about what went wrong eight years earlier – “it’s set out Q&A like The Trial”. Kilroy started writing it in 2008 “when the word ‘recession’ was first being bandied. I was writing as events unfolded.” When the IMF came in, “that’s when the novel descended into the supernatural”. It’s a new kind of novel for Kilroy – “the readings I’ve done so far have turned into heated debates about bankers and property developers”. Her previous novels deal with the art and literary worlds and are set in Europe and in Dublin in the 1980s. She wanted to write about Dublin in the here and now but during the boom years “couldn’t find a way in. I found we were getting obnoxious and pretentious. There was nothing funny about it.” Generally, she starts writing at 1pm and goes on until she makes some progress, but this may change. “I’m having a baby in November so that’s something quite new. I don’t know how it will change but it will all change. I’m not working on another novel right now. I’m pretty sure that when I do, I’ll be returning to the female world – my last two books are very male.”
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Kevin Barry
Going to a Kevin Barry reading is as near as the literary circuit gets to a rock concert – there are the devoted fans who turn up time and time again, and there’s his trademark delivery, roguish, theatrical and perfectly suited to the aural quality of his writing, which he describes as “writing from voices”. So it’s not that surprising to hear that, although he spent his twenties “only thinking of fiction for the page”, he’s now “increasingly thinking of writing for actors”. He
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has just finished the first draft of the screenplay for his novel, City of Bohane, and would love to collaborate with other writers on TV dramas. He’s also working on a graphic book with Spanish artist Ali Mercado, and admires the way “visual artists are much more open to trying new ways of doing things – writers can get stuck in fixed habits”. He is constantly trying out new techniques – “writing at different times of the day and night to keep things fresh”. After years of
wandering, he now lives in a converted barracks in Sligo, but still travels – for sun in February and for readings – and is good at writing on the hoof. His work can “go in unexpected directions and be quite disparate” – City of Bohane is high-octane, dystopic, noir-ish ; his short story, “Beer Trip to Llandudno”, which won the Sunday Times short story award, is naturalistic and low-key; the connecting thread is “the twisted comedy”.
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Niamh Sharkey
It takes children’s author Niamh Sharkey about a year to produce a picture book – “they’re hand-drawn and oil painted, which takes the longest” – but the time is worth it. Her first book, The Gigantic Turnip, won the Bisto and the Mother Goose awards in 1999 and has been translated into 20 languages. She’s currently working with Disney on animating her Hugglemonsters book, about a family of monsters, into a 52-episode, pre-school series, which will be broadcast on Disney Junior in 150 countries next year. She has also just been made Laureate na nÓg, or children’s laureate, which involves “raising the profile of children’s books here and abroad – through readings, school events, workshops”. Sharkey – who has three children aged between six and ten, on whom she “tests” her books – comes from an illustrator’s background. She studied art and design in Dublin Institute of Technology and ideas for books come visually at first. “Generally I get an image of a character and do a rough drawing. My biggest influences are Maurice Sendak (Where the Wild Things Are), Dr Seuss and the Muppet Show, so I like strong characters and monsters.” One of her aims as Laureate na nÓg is to give a picture book to every child born in Ireland during her tenure (which continues until 2014). “According to a recent survey, 20 per cent of parents never read with their kids. I want to change that.”
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PEOPLE
When Gerard Cromwell took on the task of ghost-writing cyclist Nicolas Roche’s memoirs, he said he “wasn’t going to do it if it didn’t win Sports Book of the Year” – which may have sounded “kind of arrogant” for someone who had never had a book published but he knew he could do it because he “wasn’t afraid to ask the right questions”. In the event, Inside the Peloton won the 2011 Irish Sports Book Award. Cromwell worked for Irish Rail for 20 years, after growing up in Balbriggan, Co Dublin, where “nobody ever told me you could be a writer”. However, as a competitive sportsman (GAA, soccer, and cycling), he started contributing articles to websites and blogs and soon got work as a freelance sports journalist. He ghost-wrote Roche’s cycling diaries for the Irish Daily Star and Irish Independent and built up trust over a number of years before tackling the memoir. Building trust is crucial to ghostwriting. It also helps that Cromwell likes “getting inside someone’s head” and knows “what the ordinary person wants to know – and it’s not necessarily the sporting aspect”. He’s not committed to telling a sports story – it could be “a celebrity, politician or an ordinary Joe with an extraordinary story. Lots of people have great stories but no clue how to transform them into a book. That’s my job.”
WHERE TO SEE THEM The best place to see four of our six writers is the Dún Laoghaire Mountains to Sea festival, September 4-9, mountainstosea.ie. Kevin Barry, Claire Kilroy, Niamh Sharkey and Declan Burke are all reading or giving workshops there. Kathleen MacMahon will be reading at the Electric Picnic in Co Laois, September 1-2; Aspects Festival, Bangor, Co Down, September 26 and the Manchester Literature Festival in the UK, October 15. Check out kathleenmacmahon.com.
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SHOT ON LOCATION AT ROYAL HOSPITAL KILMAINHAM, DUBLIN 8 WITH THANKS TO ALL AT IMMA; KEVIN BARRY SHOT ON LOCATION AT FALLON & BYRNE, DUBLIN 2. PHOTOGRAPHED BY RICHARD GILLIGAN, ASSISTED BY ANDREW NUDING. MAKE-UP BY LEONARD DALY; LEONARDDALY.COM; MAKE-UP FOR NIAMH SHARKEY BY KEN BOYLAN; KENBOYLAN.COM
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wicklow way
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WICKLOW ROCKS
From sunlit woods to mountain views, the beauty of the Wicklow Way on Dublin’s doorstep takes Peter Murtagh’s breath away. He charts the ups and downs of the 129km trail in a six-day odyssey. Photographs by Peter Matthews.
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WICKLOW WAY
DAY 1 A Sunday in July; 10am, Marlay Park in the Dublin suburb of Rathfarnham – the start of the Wicklow Way, the 129-kilometre trek south through the Dublin and Wicklow mountains, all the way down to Clonegal in Co Carlow. The first thing I notice as I set off, saying goodbye to Moira, my wife, and our beloved dogs, is the number of people running around the park, mainly women in Lycra-type fitness gear. Most of them are wearing headphones, voices yammering away between their ears as they trot through the pastoral parkland. Why would anyone want to be out in the countryside while denying their senses the pleasure of hearing the wind whooshing through the shrubbery and the tree tops? Odd.
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It’s a fine, clear day in an otherwise miserable (so far) summer. The sun is shining and the sky is a mix of blue and billowing clouds. The trail, well marked with the distinctive Wicklow Way black posts (made of recycled plastic) and their yellow directional arrow, wends its way through a copse lining the banks of a stream. The bed is glistening bright sand, golden brown through the peaty mahogany water. Fragments of mica twinkle in the sun – evidence of granite, the wonderful rock that built the mountains, and much of Dublin besides. The hum of traffic is never far off; I’ve yet to leave the city behind … The Way exits the park and licks alongside the M50 for a while. And
then, having dipped underneath the motorway and past the entrance to St Columba’s College, it soon enters Kilmashogue Woods. Purple foxgloves line the trail and the air is sweet with the smell of pine. Dublin, its sprawl all too obvious as one gains height, gradually recedes into the distance. But for TRAVEL a while, there are LIGHT great views of the Many B&Bs operate a Bay and Howth baggage transfer service from and Lambay one stop to the next, or you could Island and try Wicklow Way Baggage, which beyond them all, offers door-to-door transfers for the Mournes in €15 minimum, 086 269 8659; Northern Ireland. In what seems wicklowwaybaggage.com like no time at all, I am crossing an
Above, the magnificent waterfall at Powerscourt, right, Peter sets off on the Wicklow Way.
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wicklow way
upland shoulder between Tibradden (467m*) and Two Rock (536m) mountains; small hills for sure, but the sense of remoteness is huge. The land is boggy, there’s lots of heather and other moorland plants, and the wind is strong. I can think of no other capital city that has such enriching treasure on its doorstep. The Way descends into the Glencullen River valley and uses the road for a kilometre or two before rising again along the flank of Prince William’s Seat (555m), the boundary mountain separating Dublin and Wicklow. “Careful on that road,” advises a fellow walker heading in the opposite direction to me. “Listen with your ears ...” I’m walking through Curtlestown Wood, eyes on the trail about three metres ahead of me, when I’m delivered a treat: a pine marten – long, slinky, dark brown and unmistakable – ambles across the path, not paying me a blind bit of notice, and disappears into the woods again. I do wish he had lingered … The An Óige hostel (anoige.ie) on the south side of Knockree (342m) will be grand for the night. Twentytwo kilometres in a little over five hours. That’ll do for starters.
Day 2 In the morning, I wake to find I’ve shared a bedroom with Jack and Ellen, from Blanchardstown and Clondalkin respectively. They are very young and in love and share the pleasures of the outdoors. Jack has walked great distances for Gaisce, the presidential award system that challenges young people to be adventurous and test their physical limits. Ellen is bristling with confidence, energy and chatter. They cycled some 50km to get to the hostel yesterday evening and will be off home today. I’m off down through a lush field of grass and bracken to the Glencree River. The Way hugs its banks; peaty water laps around moss-clad boulders; beech, ash and rowan trees create dappled sunlight along 52 |
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Clockwise, from top left, the Way passes through the woods at Djouce; a lone sheep above Lough Tay; the tree-lined Upper Lake at Glendalough; the Red Fly Agaric (amantia muscaria) mushroom.
the trail. Up through Crone Wood and, after a while, I enter a beautiful deciduous forest of beech trees along a wide, stone-lined avenue. It leads to Ride Rock, a perch from which I can gaze in wonderment at Powerscourt Waterfall, Ireland’s highest, where the Dargle River waters tumble 121 metres down an escarpment of sheer mica-schist. Below is the wooded deer-park amphitheatre into which the river plunges. Day trippers down there
appear ant-sized to me as I peer over the edge. A really powerful wind whips across the valley from the south-west, swooping down and then up again, up over Ride Rock, bending the pine trees and making the heather and fraughan bushes quiver. “Fantastic, isn’t it?” says the man standing behind me, making me start at his unexpected appearance. Yes, I agree, absolutely fantastic – breath-taking, epic, wonderful.
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wicklow way
The man is Dave Harris and he’s from Tallaght. He began walking the Way from Clonegal on Saturday. It’s Monday today and Clonegal is a shade under 100km away. So that would be running, Dave, yes? Yes, Dave agrees, running for much of the way. Forty kilometres for his Day 1; the same again for his Day 2. Today is to be his final day which means he’ll be doing over 50km before he hits – staggers into? – Marlay Park. Eh, why? I ask, why? Dave’s story is that he counsels survivors of institutional abuse, a horror story of modern Ireland about which he personally knows more than anyone deserves to know. Dave climbed his personal mountain by studying and qualifying as a psychotherapist, for which he recently completed his thesis.
“To be honest, it’s been heavy enough and I said when I was finished, I’d do this – get out and walk, get back to a bit of nature.” And off he goes, a quietly inspirational man. A few feet away, there’s a bench with a memorial plate to a Grace Dawson and the inscription: “When you only see one set of footprints, that’s when I carried you.” The valley of Glensoulan is a lush delight of bracken and grass before the more severe, east-facing shoulder of Djouce Mountain, the highest part of the Way at around 600m (725m if you detour to the summit), but a graceful, nontaxing walk along the boardwalk over White Hill to the majestic panorama across Luggala and Lough Tay. The view is huge – epic in scale and wonderful to behold.
Above, ruins in the rock-strewn valley of Glendalough.
ditions can change at the drop of a hat in WEATHER PROOFING ... As weather con for any expedition. At a minimum ... Ireland, it is advisable to pack practically boots and socks, a warm hat, gloves a waterproof jacket, comfortable hiking are lighter under-layers of clothing. and a fleece jacket are all essentials - as 54 |
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Sitting there just looking at it as time passes restores and rejuvenates something deep inside. The night is spent at Marlyn Kinlan’s B&B, the Wicklow Way Lodge, at Oldbridge by Lough Dan. Eighteen kilometres over six hours.
Day 3 Today I am joined by Patrick, my 22-year-old son, which is great. Two years ago, with my then 18-yearold daughter Natasha, I walked the Camino de Santiago in Spain and we wrote a book about our journey (Buen Camino! A FatherDaughter Journey from Croagh Patrick to Santiago de Compostela; Gill and Macmillan). Patrick is into the walk immediately, soon commenting on the natural beauty all around us. “I always knew Wicklow was lovely,” he says as we head around Scarr Mountain (641m), then up Paddock Hill (360m) and down to a delightful footbridge over the Glenmacnass River, “but there’s just so much of it; everywhere you turn, it’s beautiful”.
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Available Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am
M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm
“Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin”
Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area
wicklow way
That’s what happens when you walk, as opposed to drive or even cycle, through a place; you notice things that otherwise slip by. For anyone interested like me in geomorphology or geology, Wicklow is a sweet shop. The rocks over which Patrick and I are walking began life some 600 million years ago, when mud and sand from rivers accumulated a little south of the Equator. The sheer weight of the mud and sand transformed it into shale, slate and schist, that rock so beloved of schoolboys (“Sir, sir, Murtagh’s after stepping on a large piece of schist, sir …”). And then, around 400 million years ago, from deep inside the Earth’s crust, volcanic granite pushed up like a fist, never bursting through the rocks above but distorting and metamorphosing them into mica-schist. All of this happened when what we now call Ireland was but 56 |
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a tiny part of Pangaea, the name geologists gave to the enormous single landmass of continents, joined together before they began to drift apart about 200 million years ago. Wicklow today was sculpted thereafter by water and wind and, most of all, by ice. Sheet ice covered the mountain tops and glaciers turned the four great river valleys – Glenmacnass, Glendasan, Glendalough and Glenmalure – into U-shaped valleys.
Left, into the forest, Peter, left, and Patrick leaving Shillelagh, and right, a foxglove brings summer colour along the Way.
piety and learning that included seven churches, one a cathedral, and round tower, the Way proceeds to the Spink. The word is derived from the Irish for sharp rock, or cliff, which is appropriate: the Way scales the short Poulanass valley, whose waterfall over centuries dumped sufficient debris in Glendalough to slice the valley floor in half, thus creating the Upper and Lower lakes, hence the Glen of the Two Lakes. At the top of Poulanass, the Way goes straight through green Day 4 the forest but don’t go café there – turn right instead. We spent the night in In the Glendalough neck of Don’t be put off by the An Óige hostel in the woods, when weary walkers the several hundred Glendalough (just 10km seek comforting sustenance, railway sleeper steps from Oldbridge; I wanted rising steeply through Clodagh Duff’s well-stocked Green to go easy on Patrick – I the trees; the reward is Café and Deli, in Laragh Village, is needn’t have bothered!). worth it. Some 380m up, a must-stop. Open daily 8.30amAfter walking through you will be standing on 5pm (6pm on Sunday), the extraordinary monastic top of the Spink enjoying 0404 451 51. settlement of St Kevin, the 6th breathtaking, panoramic to 12th century seat of Christian views of the entire valley of
PLACES TO STAY... KNOCKREE AND GLENDALOUGH HOSTELS Both clean, very well run, offering breakfast and other meals. €21 a night for a bunk bed and access to communal kitchen. (anoige.ie) WICKLOW WAY LODGE B&B (01 281 8489; wicklowwaylodge. com) A little pricey but very high spec and a warm welcome from proprietor. €60 single occupancy of twin bedroom with ensuite. CAMPING Officially not allowed within the Wicklow Mountains National Park. Outside, seek permission from landowner or camp, as we did, discretely on public property and leave no trace. Upside total independence. Downside weight of tent. MUCKLAGH MOUNTAIN MEITHEAL HUT (pathsavers. org) Three-sided, wooden floor, volunteer-assembled, mountainside shelter with some communal equipment, including rainwater butt, campfire and maybe a pot or pan, and picnic table. Basic but close to nature! Free.
Mucklagh Mountain Meitheal Hut
OTHER OPTIONS There are several B&Bs on the Way or close to it, in places such as Roundwood, Enniskerry and Laragh. There are hotels as well, including The Glendalough Hotel (B&B from €50, 0404 451 35; glendaloughhotel.com), The Glenmalure Lodge (B&B from €35, 0404 461 88) and Brook Lodge in Macreddin Village near Aughrim (B&B from €60 pps, 0402 364 44; brooklodge.com). All will assist with taxis to and from the Way itself.
Glendalough. There’s a big “wow!” factor here: the sheer drop beneath one’s feet; the glaciated U-shape more obvious than ever and, on the side of the valley, the boundary between the mica-schist and the granite is visibly obvious. And it is at that precise join, where the volcanic granite of quartz, feldspar and mica, meets the schist, in a seam running up the sides of the valley, that rare minerals are found – galena, the base mineral of lead, garnet gem stones and pyrite, the aptly nicknamed fool’s gold. The abandoned 19th century mines at the head of the valley and cone of mine tailings tipping down the side of the valley are evidence of what used to happen here. I love this place; I love the story it has to tell. I love reading the landscape, the epic journey that started 600 million years ago and continues today before my eyes. You don’t get that on the internet or sitting watching TV. The walk along the top of the Spink licks around the edge of the forest and up the side of Mullacor Mountain (657m), rejoining the Way before descending to Glenmalure. And then, suddenly about 100 metres in front of us on the trail, without warning or fuss, stands a young stag, a prince of the forest; erect and firm in poise,
Top, Glendalough’s Round Tower at St Kevin’s 6th-century monastic ruins; encountering a “prince of the forest”.
staring straight at us, sizing us up. We freeze; he stays looking long enough for me to get the picture, before walking calmly back into the forest. We see two more before our Way is over, two females we think. A celebratory pint is called for in the Glenmalure Lodge (0404 461 88) – the only pub actually on the Way. The night is spent in the Mucklagh Mountain Meitheal hut on the side of Carrickashane Mountain (508m) – after a bottle of Chilean Merlot, beans cooked in their tin on the open fire and toasted cheese sandwiches. Some early Bob Dylan – Maggie’s Farm; It’s Alright Ma (I’m only bleeding) – on Patrick’s iPod never sounded better. It’s life and life only. About 26km in nine hours, breaks included. Not bad for a 59-year-old trying to keep pace with a 22-year-old! SEPTEMBER 2012
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WICKLOW WAY
GET EQUIPPED
ILLUSTRATION BY ANNE SMITH/WWW.ANNESMITH.NET
IRISHTRAILS.IE – the National Trails Office’s comprehensive nationwide information resource. WICKLOWWAY.COM – good description of route and range of accommodation available. OSI.IE – Ireland’s national mapping agency; use Discovery Series numbers 56 and 62 and bring a compass – must-have tools of the Way; €8.25 each. RUCSACS.COM – The Wicklow Way (Rucksack Readers, £10.99) by Jacquetta Megarry and Sandra Bardwell; excellent spiral-bound guide with handy, laminated, fold-down map, breaking the route into measured stages. A good companion to the OSI maps.
DAY 5 There is a big, big sky during the night in the Mucklagh hut, one side open to the elements and a very hard wooden floor on which to sleep. The sky is ablaze with stars and with dawn comes a stillness to the start of the day. On the lower slope of the forest, just above Iron Bridge, machines like things from The War of the Worlds are stomping their way through the trees, thinning them out – material for fence posts. From the west side of Shielstown Hill (536m), the flatter and richer lands of Kildare and Carlow stretch before us, forests giving way to a patchwork of fields, equestrian and arable farming. Sadly now, roads also begin to take over from forest tracks and mountain trails;
THE HIGHS AND LOWS HIGHS Quality time with my son and showing him landscape that will live within him forever; seeing the pine marten and young stag; the wild remoteness of the mountains; the wayside flowers; best weather of the month; not being in the office … LOWS The awful humidity; the weight of the tent (my bad choice) … not a lot else, really!
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there’s a long stretch of tarmac from Shielstown, through Moyne and beyond. The Way goes off-road again at Coolafunshoge Hill (431m), through beautiful grass and bracken sheep pasture where we hear the call of birds of prey, before dropping down to Tinahely for a late lunch in Murphy’s hotel and bar (0402 381 09)– earned after 25km.
Below, father and son enjoying their journey.
DAY 6 A lift to Shillelagh, where we camp the night beside the town’s Derry River, cuts out maybe 13km of unwanted road walking between there and Tinahely. We take up the Way again at Raheenakit and the forest covering Aghowle Hill (420m) where the enormously tall pines lining the entrance give the appearance of a cathedral. More road leads to the final forest at Moylisha. At Osborne’s (053 937 7359) in Clonegal, a must stop for all Wicklow Way walkers, Essie Osborne maintains a delightfully old fashioned, almost daft, pub that she and her husband restored from a hardware and grocery store some 40 years ago. Entering Osborne’s is stepping back in time. The counter is rough old pine and behind the bar, box drawers that used to contain horseshoe nails and Woodbine cigarettes are on show. But there’s nothing dusty about the cheery welcome Essie bestows on all comers – unofficial Wicklow Way certificate included! – or the welcome, the very welcome, liquid refreshment on offer for thirsty walkers. * Heights indicated are for mountain tops; in almost all instances, the Way passes some metres below the summits.
In Ireland
rsa.ie
new york
Shopping & The CiTy
New York’s a go-go when it comes to superb shopping options. Lizzie Gore-Grimes gets to the covetable core of the Big Apple. Photographs by Joanne Murphy. 60 |
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NEW YORK
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here’s nothing predictable about New York City; it’s the kind of place where you’re likely to find a doggie gym next to a Michelinstar restaurant, a disco in a former convent and some of the tastiest Mexican food in town being served out of a vintage Combi van. And as for the style – architecturally, it’s one of the most stunning cities in the world, with Art Deco gems such as the Chrysler building and the Empire State. Then there are the people – New Yorkers are masters of the perfect accessory. From statement glasses, to a quirky hat or cute dog, they get it just right. All of this is precisely what makes a shopping trip to New York so exciting. It’s a city free from homogeny; every face, look and personality is different. Much the same can be said about the city’s bustling neighbourhoods – from elegant Midtown, to fashion forward Soho, Indie Nolita and the East Village, it’s all on tap. The only snag is – where to start? A good place is with the list of shopping requests your nearest and dearest have no doubt lumbered you with. Whether it’s designer denim, great value cosmetics, Hollister gear for the cool kid in your life or an American Girl doll for a little wallet fast. All the top designers are madam, it’s good to tick them here – Prada, Louis Vuitton, off first and Midtown Gucci and more but also will sort you out on plenty of mid-range JET SET all fronts. If you greats too with like shopping Tommy Hilfiger, As of March 2013 all Aer under one roof, Abercrombie Lingus flight operations from and the old reliables & Fitch, to Dublin, Shannon and JFK will are Barneys Anthropologie, operate out of JetBlue’s Terminal 5 at (660 Madison Michael JFK airport, promising same-terminal Avenue; Kors, 7 for connecting times, plus access to barneys.com), all Mankind, fantastic shopping and dining Bloomingdales Kenneth Cole facilities, voted some of the (1000 Third and Kate Spade best in the US. Avenue; among others bloomingdales.com) (visit5thavenue.com). and Saks (Fifth Avenue; For the little girl in saksfifthavenue.com) in this neck your life, American Girl Place of the woods. While the rest of Fifth (609 Fifth Avenue at 49th Street; Avenue will threaten to empty your americangirl.com) is doll heaven
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Above, a big Mack pulls in by the Manhattan Bridge overpass, Brooklyn; right, writer Lizzie Gore-Grimes seeks out the perfect New York accessories.
Clockwise from top right, Pedro Carta and Jacob Sadrak enjoying fresh tacos at Tacombi; Franklin, employee of the month, at Magnolia Bakery on 6th Avenue; artists’ agent Chris Taha hangs out in the über-funky V Bar & Café on Sullivan Street; Helen Luchars and her pooch Marty chill out in Washington Square Park. SEPTEMBER 2012
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SLEEP AT... CONTEMPORARY COOL Start your NYC odyssey in style at the recently opened Yotel (570 Tenth Avenue at West 42nd Street, New York; yotel.com; +1 646 449 7700). Pretty much everything is white, with soft rounded corners; you check in by touchscreen and left luggage is manned by a robot. Once up on the fourth floor at reception, the music’s hip and the staff attractive. There’s an outdoor terrace for drinking and dining and a funky Asian restaurant. Rooms, or “cabins”, as they’re called, are small but cleverly designed boasting super-speed Wi-Fi, compact storage, recharge stations and a good shower. Double rooms from $150 in low season but ratchet up pretty quickly to about $350 in high season. CLASSIC COMFORT If you like a home from home when you travel, then you’ll love The Fitzpatrick Grand Central (141 East 44th Street, New York; fitzpatrickhotels. com; 1800 367 7701). The hotel provides warm Irish hospitality in a classic hotel setting. The guestrooms, corridors, and public spaces were renovated last year and all rooms boast trouser press, in-room tea and coffee making, pay-per-view movies, 24-hr room service and full laundry service. The outdoor terrace of the Wheeltapper bar is always buzzing and is hugely popular with local New Yorkers. Double rooms start from $159 in low season. BOUTIQUE FIND If you’re looking for something special for your New York experience, try Lafayette House (38 East 4th Street, New York; lafayettenyc.com; +1 212 505 8100), a beautifully renovated Victorian brownstone just off the Bowery that has 15 rooms, each furnished with hand-picked antiques and original fireplaces but also boasting modern creature comforts such as air conditioning and 400 thread-count linens. Rooms are pricey (starting at $350) but hotel’s don’t get much more boutique than this.
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Above, the fabulous Beacon’s Closet vintage store in Greenwich Village; right, the attractive window at Anthropologie.
while little (and not so little) boys will love everything in the giant Lego store (620 Fifth Avenue at 50th Street) in the Rockefeller Center. Once here, drop your bags and refresh over lunch at the Rock Center Café (20 West 50th Street, +1 212 332 7620), a true Deco gem where the summer al fresco terrace transforms into a picture-postcard ice-skating rink in winter. As night falls, stay in Great Gatsby mode, and visit The Campbell Apartment in Grand Central Station (15 Vanderbilt Avenue, +1 212 953 0409; hospitalityholdings.com) for one
and Broadway, the brainchild of Trey Parker DON’T MISS ... The Book of Mormon on ised as South Park). The production has been pra of tors crea g nin win my(Em ne Sto tt Ma details. ”; see newyorkcitytheatre.com for more “surprisingly sweet” and “smart as hell
LOUIS FITZGERALD HOSPITALITY City Centre Heritage Pubs Dublin & Galway
GRAND CENTRAL 10/11 O’Connell St, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 8728658
Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly destroyed in the 1916 rising. Today you can still enjoy some of the original features, high dome ceilings and hand crafted stone, but now complimented with plush leather seats and dramatic chandeliers. Superb food served daily.
Temple Bar, Ph: +353 1 670 8777 www.arlingtonhoteltemplebar.com
O’Connell Bridge Ph: +353 1 804 9100 www.arlington.ie
Traditional Irish hospitality awaits you in the Arlington Hotels. Boasting 200 Bedrooms in the Heart of the City. Experience the true Dublin and stay with us in these Iconic Locations.
KEHOES
9 South Anne, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6778312
Situated off Dublin’s premier shopping street, Grafton Street. This is one of the finest, if not the finest, Victorian pub in Dublin. Although it is unchanged since 19th century, this is not a museum, it is a buzzing vibrant pub with a fantastic atmosphere and a special place in the heart of Dubliners. This is a must see.
THE STAGS HEAD 1 Dame Court, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 6793687
Established in the 1700’s, it was last renovated in 1895 and was the first pub in Dublin to change from gas lighting to electricity. A favourite haunt for those in the literary world including Joyce and Kavanagh over the years. Today it still has the authentic feel of a real Dublin pub.
THE QUAYS
11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 6713922 The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of Temple Bar is one of Dublin’s liveliest pubs with a great mix of locals and tourists. Live Irish Traditional Music everyday makes the pub a magnet for those of us looking for a bit of craic and with a restaurant on the first floor.
THE LOUIS FITZGERALD HOTEL ����
THE BAGGOT INN Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6618758
The Baggot Inn offer you the original and unique ‘Pour your own Pint’ experience. Located in the hub of Dublin’s business centre, we serve a wide variety of hot and tasty food. First Failte Ireland Approved Dublin Pub check out the Baggot inn FREE APP.
� Awarded Irelands Best Value Hotel 2010
THE QUAYS
� 21 meetings rooms
Quay Street, Galway Tel: 091 568347 The Quays, situated in the heart of Galway city and established in the 1600’s, it has kept the charm which gained it an international reputation for its traditional Irish music sessions. Traditional Irish fare, the best of music and the 'craic' are the order of the day.
AN POITIN STIL
� 190 bedrooms � Amazing Wedding packages available Newlands Cross, Dublin 22. Tel: 01 403 3300 Email: stay@louisfitzgeraldhotel.com www.louisfitzgeraldhotel.com
JOELS RESTAURANT
Rathcoole, Co. Dublin Tel: 01 4589244
Naas Rd, Dublin 22 Tel: 01 4592968
Award winning thatched Restaurant & Bar with its own Stil and quirky museum. An Poitin Stil is one of Ireland’s Most Famous Pubs.
Modern and bright, Joels is one of Dublin’s livliest dining venues, with an extensive menu catering for almost every taste.
A warm welcome awaits you from all the staff at the Louis Fitzgerald Group
www.louisfitzgerald.com
NEW YORK
This page, Christian Stathis relaxes outside New York’s famous Balthazar bistro, a lunchtime legend; opposite page, left, catering for all occasions at Katz’s deli; right, taking in Liberty on the East River Ferry.
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of its signature “cocktails from a bygone era”. Formerly the luxurious office of 1920s mogul John W Campbell, its interior is stunning. Grand Central Station, lit up at night in all its Art Deco splendour, is also a must-see. And for the perfect follow-through with food, head to Maze by Gordon Ramsay at The London (151 West 54th Street; +1 212 468 8889), where the menu is every bit as elegant and classy as the David Collins interior. Having ticked off your list of must-buys, the fun can really begin downtown as you explore the warren of streets around Soho and Nolita. If it’s indie fashion labels you’re after – this is your patch. Start at Greene Street (West Houston Street) and let your inner magpie loose in Kisan (125 Greene Street; kisanstore.com) where you’ll find a hand-picked selection of beautiful things – to include fashion, jewellery, homeware, stationery, books and children’s wear. Down the road, pop into Kirna Zabête (96 Greene Street; kirnazabete.com) for a high-fashion fix at Philip Lim, Alexander Wang, Erdem, Thakoon, etc. For lunch, head over to Balthazar (80 Spring Street, +1 212 965 1414; balthazarny.com) – this bustling bistro is a lunchtime-legend for very good reason. Also in this area you’ll find the MoMA Design Store (81 Spring Street; momastore. org) and Kiosk (95 Spring Street; kioskkiosk.com) both brilliant for imaginative homeware and gifts. Heading a little further east into Nolita, make a bee-line for Elizabeth Street where you’ll find it hard to resist the butter-soft bags at Sample, the designer finds at Tory Burch and the bespoke scents at Atelier Cologne, among others. An essential pitstop here is Tacombi (267 Elizabeth Street; tacombi.com) for super-fresh, zingy Mexican fare served out of a vintage Combi van (try the crispy Ensenada fish tacos
washed down with a watermelon juice). Another must-visit in this ’hood is Katz’s deli (205 East Houston Street; katzsdelicatessen.com), a Jewish institution since 1888. The secret dry cure pickling formula they use on their pastrami takes a full month to be ready to serve. But make sure to leave room for dinner at DBGB Kitchen (299 Bowery, +1 212 933 5300) where Michelin-star chef Daniel Boulud blends French bistro and American tavern to create a buzzy Bowery great. It offers 70 craft beers by the bottle
THE INSIDER’S GUIDE Howth ex-pat Philip Fox-Mills, executive producer with Ridley Scott Associates, shares his favourite New York City haunts. YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT? Miss Lily’s/Melvin’s Juice Box (132 West Houston Street at Sullivan Street; misslilysnyc.com) is a newish Jamaican place, with great food and vibe; Momofuku’s – there a few of them in the east village and now one in midtown, Má Pêche (15 West 56th Street, +1 212 757 5878; momofuku.com) is best. YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES FOR A DRINK? Little Branch – a speakeasy on 7th Street near Barrow; any of the old Ivy League Clubs in Midtown – very Catcher in the Rye with opulent tones, all you need is to know a member. Harry Cipriani (781 Fifth Avenue at 59th Street; +1 212 753 5566; cipriani.com) serves proper Martinis and has very friendly bar staff – just don’t say you know me ... BEST PLACE FOR PRESENTS? Tiffanys (Fifth Avenue and 57th Street; tiffany.com), of course! Or else Barneys (660 Madison Avenue; barneys.com). BEST PLACE FOR KIDS? Roosevelt bubble car; the High Line (thehighline.org) and the New York Hall of Science in Queens (47-01 111th Street in Flushing Meadows). Or
Central Park is the backyard for kids in the city any time of year. SECRET ESCAPE IN THE CITY? Weirdly, ChinaTown can be very quiet in parts once you know it. Then Battery Park City on the water or leave the city ... halfway across Brooklyn Bridge on off-peak hours or Coney Island off season. NOT TO BE MISSED? The High Line, Times Square and walking down or up 5th Avenue are all quintessential NYC, and the Staten Island Ferry and back. BEST COFFEE? Colombe (270 Lafayette Street; lacolombe.com), beside my office in Soho and then, further down, Saturdays Surf NYC (31 Crosby Street; saturdaysnyc.com). BEST HOTEL FOR ROMANCE? Book a room high up in The Four Seasons (fourseasons.com/newyork) or downtown at The Greenwich in Tribeca (thegreenwichhotel.com) – they both have stellar restaurants too. The St Regis (stregisnewyork.com) is also good.
SEPTEMBER 2012
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and 14 varieties of gourmet sausage overlooking the river and Manhattan (paying homage to chef Boulud’s beyond. For lunch, head to Dekalb Lyonnaise roots) and a Piggie burger Market (138 Willoughby Street (6oz beef burger, housemade BBQ at Flatbush Avenue; dekalbmarket. pulled pork and jalapeno mayo) that com) where you’ll find a collection is nothing short of the best burger of salvaged shipping containers in town. housing a gourmet food market, For something different, urban farm and esoteric head out of Manhattan fashion emporium. to the area everyone’s For shopping, WEB PREP currently talking head to Atlantic Whether you’re heading about – Avenue (cross to NYC to shop, dine or catch Brooklyn. Give street: Smith a show, visit nycgo.com to create the subway a Street) where your own bespoke itinerary and find skip and jump you’ll find a out about all best new places in town. on the East selection of An essential bit of pre-trip prep River Ferry inspired stores particularly if you’re travelling with from Midtown such as Dry instead. If you Goods (362 kids or have any other special get on at East Atlantic Avenue; requirements. 34th Street, the trip drygoodsny.com) takes about 20 minutes for homeware, pets, and has breathtaking views clothes and gifts; Kaight of the Manhattan cityscape. It is (382 Atlantic Avenue; kaightshop.com) also a reminder that this great city for ethically sourced womenswear, remains a busy industrial port at featuring lots of local designers and heart. Jump off at Brooklyn Bridge divine décor from Rico (384 Atlantic Park – and make sure to take your Avenue; shoprico.com). Food-lovers time exploring this green space shouldn’t miss Sahadi’s (187 Atlantic
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Top, the unique Mexican eatery, Tacombi, at Fonda NoLita; above, Dekalb Market, Brooklyn, for eclectic finds housed in a collection of salvaged shipping containers.
Avenue; sahadis.com), a Middle Eastern emporium where an entire room is dedicated to olives; Mr Sahadi clearly is to the spice world what Mr Wonka is to chocolate. If you’re still brimful of energy, walk the High Line park – the old freight line that runs nine metres above Manhattan – catch Once on Broadway, or see the new Freedom Tower being built at the World Trade Center. Or mark them down for your next visit. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York daily, and from Shannon to New York, Mon, Wed and Fri.
Ollscoil Chathair Bhaile átha Cliath Dublin City University
Ireland’s University of Enterprise
Dublin City University Welcomes all delegates to the EAIE Conference 2012
World University Rankings
Top 50 Under 50
www.dcu.ie/international
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fuerteventura
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Surf’S up... Fuerteventura isn’t just a sun holiday hotspot. It’s a surfer’s paradise, as Pól Ó Conghaile discovers. Photographs by Marcos de Rada.
FUERTEVENTURA
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his feels good. This is clicking. Crouching low on the board, cutting through white water, I’m heading straight for the beach, maintaining my position. Creased cliffs rise up over the soft golden sands in front of me. And there isn’t a soul in sight. I’m surfing the northwest coast of Fuerteventura. Seconds later, of course, I’m falling from my board, tumbling head over heels into the Great Atlantic Washing Machine. But no matter. I’ve caught a nifty wave and that’s what counts. When I surface, Richie Moore is holding two thumbs up. Moore, the sun-bronzed owner of Rip Curl Surf School, is my instructor for a week. I’m here courtesy of Surfholidays.com, 72 |
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an Irish company packaging accommodation and surfing lessons around Europe. For sometime surfers like me, this is a no-brainer. Not only are you getting good lessons, but you can leave the meteorology to a maverick and get the inside track on the best breaks, for one price. Simple – until you stand up on the surfboard, that is. I flew into Fuerteventura with my wife and our two kids – Rosa (six) and Sam (two) – on a Saturday. After taking a day to settle into our accommodation (Las Marismas in Corralejo), we arrange my first lesson for Monday – the idea being for me to get a run at it on my own, before the kids would join in for a fun family lesson later in the week. Richie picks me up in his trusty VW van. Heading west with four other surfers in tow, I can’t get over how spectacularly arid Fuerteventura
Above, acres of empty, sandy beaches on Fuerteventura make it the perfect spot for surfers, both learners and pros. Right, newbie surfer Pól Ó Conghaile and two-year-old Sam.
G
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EARLY BIRD MENU 2 COURSES €19.50 3 COURSES €22.00
A bit of NYC escapism in the heart of Dublin City Centre. South King Street, Dublin 2
■ 1 minute walk from Grafton Street ■ Double award-winning Cocktail bar, with multiple award-winning Bartenders ■ Cocktail master classes available all week ■ Gourmet food served all day 11am - 8.30pm Mon- Sat, 10am - 7.30pm Sunday ■ Breakfast served from 10am – 3pm Saturday and Sunday ■ Heated outside terrace with seating for 70 people ■ BBQ every Friday and Saturday evening ■ Available for private corporate parties and launches. ■ Bar serving until 3am Friday and Saturdays with great Djs every weekend ■ Now taking Christmas bookings ■ Birthdays, engagements, sport and social get togethers, corporate ■ All parties catered for, no party to big.
call us on 01 475 8504 for reservations or email:info@harrysonthegreen.ie
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fuerteventura
WHere tO eat In COrraLeJO… ¬ Corralejo is no Costa del Sol, but its old harbour serves up an evocative reminder of what the former fishing village must have looked like before modern tourism. La Marquesina (Calle El Muelle Chico, +34 928 535 435) is a midrange seafood restaurant perched on the harbour wall, with fresh fish displayed on ice before being whisked away to the grill. Snapper, crab croquettes and Canarian potatoes were our highlights, eaten as the kids played on the sand and a pink moon rose over the boats. ¬ There’s no shortage of goats on the island, so perhaps it’s not surprising to find a restaurant named after one, either. Pincha Cabra (Milagrosa 17, Plaza Calero, +34 928 866 449) is the kind of place you stumble upon rather than read about in a rep’s brochure, and the air of discovery continues with the lengthy list of tapas including papas arrugadas (“wrinkled potatoes”), calamari, peppercorn beef and a fresh melon and artichoke salad. No shortage of goat’s cheese, either. ¬ You’ll get good steak at Gregorio el Pescador (Calle de la Iglesia 11, +34 928 866 227) near Corralejo’s old harbour, but it’s not for his beef that Gregorio is known as “El Pescador”. Big portions are the order of the day here, with calamari, fish croquettes, langoustines and sardines amongst the highlights of a menu heavily skewed towards seafood. It’s not cheap by Corralejo standards, but kids are welcome, and afterwards, you can walk off those garlic prawns with a post-prandial by the beach.
Pincha Cabra
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Above, a graphic reminder of the importance of surfing to this island paradise.
is. It’s like Mordor meets the Med; volcanic mountains punching up out of the earth with the odd tuft of cactus or aloe-vera as a garnish. It’s like a film negative of Ireland: a scorched, forbidding place to everything but chipmunks and goats. I’m not at all surprised it’s just 100km from Punta de la Entallada to Morocco. But then we hit the beaches. Steering off the sealed road near El
Cotillo, we rattle along a dirt track towards the coast and – bam! – an azure ocean sparkles like a galaxy. Little fluffy clouds hover above big green waves, crashing down some 25 metres offshore. Piling out of the van, we grab our boards and make our way down. There is nobody else around. This is the draw of Fuerteventura. Less developed than other Canary Islands, yet boasting more sandy
ron, street festival celebrating the island’s pat ROMERÍA DE LA PEÑA ... Every year, a s third Saturday of September (this year’ Our Lady of the Rock, takes place on the pays homage, while residents and visitors falls on September 20). The procession , music and traditional dancing. enjoy a lively celebration involving food
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FUERTEVENTURA
beaches and 3,000 hours of sunshine a year, it feels like freedom. “Que forte aventure!”, Frenchman Jean de Bethencourt is said to have exclaimed after invading in 1402. After limbering up, we hit the waves. Richie watches from the shoreline, pulling us in now and then to give us tips on technique. Central to his approach is “the second of sanity” – that moment when the wave catches you and you push your shoulders forward, locking your arms and owning the board before popping-up into a standing position. It’s easy in theory ... but not so much in feisty conditions stirred up by Fuerteventura’s notorious winds. “Mother Nature hasn’t done with you yet,” he shouts, as I emerge from the froth, forgetting to secure my board, and the next wave crashes down. All kinds of surfers come to Fuerteventura, relishing the frontierlike adventure of its undeveloped coastline. Other Canary Islands may
TAKE FIVE ... DAY TRIPS
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BAKU WATERPARK ... You can’t miss it. Perched above Corralejo, slides sprawling around it like elongated Wine Gums, sooner or later parents have to give in. I’d recommend sooner. “Let’s do it again!” is the catchphrase of the day, with Rosa hitting the shorter slides, Sam pottering around the toddlers’ play park, and Dad escaping to shoot down the Kamikaze Run. Sure, it’s expensive (adult tickets cost from €25), the food is terrible and you’ll fry like an egg if you forget the sunscreen, but queues were short and we had an absolute ball. ISLA DE LOBOS ... In summertime, boats leave Corralejo hourly between 10am and 4pm, taking passengers to the volcanic Isla de Lobos 15 minutes offshore. Take a glass-bottomed boat if you fancy a leisurely cruise and
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a look at the fish, or hop off to explore the rocky lump at your own pace. Unsurfaced paths lead to hidden beaches and lagoons (I just about managed with the buggy) and the snorkelling is amongst the best on Fuerteventura. The seals that gave the island its name are in short supply but there’s a surprising variety of bird life. LANZAROTE … They may be marketed as completely different holiday destinations but Lanzarote and Fuerteventura lie just twelve minutes apart by fast ferry. Departing Corralejo (check fredolsen.es for times and prices on the Bocayna Express to Playa Blanca), it’s possible to spend a day on the neighbouring island, exploring white beaches, black volcanic landscapes and even taking a trip to the active volcano Timanfaya, before catching
a boat back to Fuerteventura that evening. Two Canaries for the price of one, then.
an ice cream or cerveza, check out the Clean Ocean Project (cleanoceanproject.org). It’s a tiny shop selling jewellery, T-shirts and other trinkets flotsam made with fl otsam and jetsam recovered by a group that cleans beaches on the island. Its aim? To preserve “this unique playground”. LA OLIVA TO BETANCURIA ... Think of holiday islands, and palm trees and tropical vegetation often spring to mind. By contrast, Fuerteventura’s interior is strikingly harsh and barren. As such, driving through historic towns such as Pajar and the old capital of Betancuria makes for a fascinating daytrip, not so much for the towns, but the stunning landscape around them. The volcanic landscape is separated by just 100km from the African coast at Morocco. Awesome.
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El Cotillo
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EL COTILLO … Curious as to what Corralejo might have looked like 30 years ago? Then take the short drive across Fuerteventura to El Cotillo. The place seems in a time warp, especially around the old harbour where a cluster of restaurants overlooks a stony beach. After
offer bigger waves or better breaks towards Corralejo, with Richie’s (think of La Santa in Lanzarote) mate showing pictures on his iPad. but none matches the variety of “The thing I like about surfing breaks, and the number of is that you don’t really have a green sandy beaches you’ll find sense of time,” says one of my desert here. As a result there’s fellow surfers, an English Fuerteventura was declared something for everyone – woman in her twenties. an official “biosphere reserve”, from glorified beginners “You don’t say, ‘let’s wind by UNESCO in 2009. This means like myself to improvers up in five minutes’. You that the island is recognised in its and advanced surfers too. say, ‘let’s wind up after a efforts to promote sustainable “You’re looking for couple more waves’. You development “based on local the sweet spot,” Richie treat time very differently.” community efforts and tells me. “Where is it? I Summer is the best sound science.” don’t know. It’s different for time to learn the basics in everybody. But when you find the Canaries, Richie says. If it, you’ll know. Then you’ll have it you’re looking for bigger swells, hit forever.” the winter sun. “It’s the same as in Opposite He’s encouraging too. There are Ireland. When the weather starts page, Playa de good tips on paddling (go early, getting nasty up there, the big swells la Escalera. Above, volcanic watch the wave, use long, slow come in. We’re surfing the same stuff mountains, strokes), and when I do manage to down here as you are on the west arid desert and pop-up, hold a decent posture and coast – except with sunshine, shorts the occasional crouch on the board, he’s generous and T-shirts.” palm tree – the landscape of with the whoops of encouragement. Over the next few lessons, Fuerteventura is He even uses the word “ninja” ... I gradually start to see an hot, dry and very After the lesson, we ride back improvement. Nothing dramatic, beautiful.
no “Eureka” moment, and lots of stiff limbs and wipe-outs – but there is a pay-off. The “second of sanity” becomes a habit, freeing me to concentrate on the pop-up, the crouching position, the action on the board. I learn to loosen the back knee, look for the tension in my front thigh. I start catching more waves and riding them for longer. Typical is our third lesson, on an off-radar beach near Tindaya. Scrambling through bushes and black lumps of basalt with our boards, we flop into the surf, and spend the best part of an hour battling really punishing wind and white water. It’s dispiriting and I’m knackered, but Richie keeps things oiled, pumping out the enthusiasm and encouragement. “Yes, you fell off. But your paddle was great, you held for that second of sanity, and you popped-up well. You win some, you lose some. Next time, keep the chin up.”
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THREE BEST BEACHES
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Opposite page, Pól and young wannabe surfer Sam head to the beach in search of waves. Above, Rosa is a natural – lesson one, and she’s up and at ’em. Left, some last-minute tips as Richie and Pól hit the surf.
By lunchtime, things are looking up. The tide has come in. The waves have changed. There’s more time between sets; the big ones are breaking closer to shore and there’s enough time to gather thoughts before getting up on the board. After crashing out a gazillion times, it’s amazing how one good wave can stoke you all over again. “Wahoo! That was effortless! It was like you were waiting for a bus!” I break on the beach for an orange. Cutting it with my penknife, zapping the salty taste of the sea with its fresh juicy flesh, it’s the best bit of fruit I’ve ever tasted. As the week goes on, the expeditions become a morning ritual. Richie’s dog, Patch, sits
between the front seats. Richie plays tunes off his iPhone. “We like this one! It’s our surf song!” our English friend cheers, as Manu Chao sparks to life. I love the LIFE sense of this happy AQUATIC van, surfboards piled high on the As well as being a surfers’ roof, motoring paradise, the island also attracts through a Martian marine wildlife enthusiasts and landscape in game fisherman. Sea fauna, such search of surf. as dolphins, marlin, whales and By Friday, I’m turtles also make for a muchready to bring loved destination for scuba the kids along. divers and sailors. Following behind the VW in our rental car, we wind through the mountains to the west coast. At another deserted beach, Rosa gets
GRANDE PLAYA You’ve seen the travel magazine covers. Now see one in real life. Fuerteventura is famous for Las Dunas National Park, a 15km stretch of undulating sand south of Corralejo and the point where its dunes hit the sea forms a gloriously uninterrupted beach. Soft white sands, an ocean that flits from aquamarine to azure, and views over Isla de Lobos and Lanzarote complete the idyllic setting. You can take kite-surfing lessons at the school by Corralejo, too. PLAYA EL MARRAJO Sitting just behind the stripy lighthouse outside El Cotillo, this beach is cut off from the ocean by rocks and sandbars, creating lovely lagoons for little people. Picking through the rock pools, spotting flickering fish and snails or hiding out in the circular shelters people have built from the island’s black basalt, is a lovely way to while away the afternoon.
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Playa de la Concha
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LA CONCHA You want off-the-beatentrack? You’ll find it on this tiny cove carved into the rocky outcrop of Isla de Lobos. In 1405, Lobos served as supply base for Jean de Bethencourt’s conquest of Fuerteventura. Some 600 years later, a 15-minute boat ride from Corralejo delivers you to a volcanic nature reserve completely devoid of traffic. La Concha is a sheltered option for snorkelling and swimming. Bring food, drink and plenty of shade.
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ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS JUDGE/ CHRISJUDGE.COM
FUERTEVENTURA
GETTING THERE
her first lesson, pulling on a yellow rash vest and taking a souvenir-sized board into the shallows. She starts lying down, with Richie holding her until a wave comes, and then releasing her to ride with it. She’s a natural. Before we know it, she’s clambering to her knees. Richie paints an X on the middle of the board with a stub of wax. She manages to stand on it. “Kids are the easiest lesson,” he says. “You just say ‘stand up’, and they go: ‘okay’.” Determined not to be outdone by my six-year-old, I spend our last morning trying to focus on all I’ve learned. By avoiding the big waves and sticking with the “medium” ones (as Richie charitably calls them), I can take the time to correct my feet, play with my posture and move my body around. It feels good, like all the time in the Washing Machine has paid off. Fuerteventura is exactly what I needed. As a working father living on Ireland’s east coast, I’ll never realistically get to surf more than a
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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin direct to Fuerteventura, Tues and Sat; from Dublin to Lanzarote, four times weekly, from Cork to Lanzarote, three times weekly, and from Belfast to Lanzarote, four times weekly. For all other Aer Lingus flights to the Canary Islands, aerlingus.com. Hertz car rental Cara would like to thank Hertz for their assistance. For best car rental deals, visit aerlingus.com and click on the Hertz icon. Or call reservations from Ireland, 01 813 3844.
couple of times a year. But getting out several times in the same week, in the sunshine, on windswept beaches, in the company of an instructor who knows his technique and his turf, has given me a big boost. And all whilst hitting sandy beaches in the afternoon with the kids and eating seafood by the port in the evening ... By the time it comes to leave, I’m no longer bemused by the surf shops in every sleepy, slow-motion village on Fuerteventura. I’m smiling like someone let in on a secret.
Top, the candystriped lighthouse near El Cotillo. Above, why stop at surfing? Kitesurfing lessons are also on offer.
Surfholidays.com is an Irishowned company specialising in European surf holidays – in Fuerteventura, Pól took surf lessons with Rip Curl Surf School and stayed at Las Marismas in Corralejo. A seven-night stay in Las Marismas for a family of four, including three days of surf lessons and return airport transfers, starts from €267pp from October to December (lasmarismascorralejo.com). For more on Fuerteventura, including places to stay, see visitfuerteventura.es.
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copenhagen
GREAT DANE With accolades for the world’s best design, best metro, best cycling and best restaurant, what’s not to like in Copenhagen? Writer and photographer Roger Norum explores Denmark’s capital city and discovers why it has also been rated best in the world for quality of life.
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F
irst it was the Danes themselves, rated several years ago by a group of sociologists to be the happiest people on the planet. Then in 2008, their capital city was rated by Monocle magazine as the best in the world for quality of life, followed by accolades for the world’s best design, best metro and best cycling. Two years later, local restaurant-in-the-stars Noma was named best in the world by 800 chefs and consummate foodies – a feat it has repeated every year since. I slip out of my hotel early one morning and pick up a hired cycle to join local residents in their city-wide, two-wheeled commute. Cycling is a national sport in Denmark, and bikes are hands down the best way to get around. Spread across a series of canals and lakes, Copenhagen is laid out in a series of easily navigable neighbourhoods – Vesterbro, Nørrebro and Østerport being among the best known, with well-laid tarmac cycle paths nearly everywhere. Architecturally, the city runs the gamut from Gothic to ultramodern, from leafy Frederiksberg and the palatial royal quarter of Frederiksstaden to the imposing enclave of Christianshavn, surrounded by canals. At the heart of it all sits Indre By, a maze of lively, pedestrianised streets and squares. The first activity on my list: retail therapy. I ride along the cobbled streets of Købmagergade and Kompagnistræde in Indre By, great spots for picking up sleek Scandinavian housewares, modern design objets and home furnishings at small, independent design shops. It was strikingly original pieces of furniture such as Arne Jacobsen’s cradle-like Egg Chair that first got Scandinavian design noticed, and from the early 1950s onwards, uncomplicated, understated works from the region’s designers became synonymous with outstanding craftsmanship, quality and innovative style. North of Indre By, the Norrebro district is a good bet for clothing; try the chic shops on Elmegade, where designers are often
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on hand to tailor the clothing on the racks to fit you perfectly (a tip: pick up something from artist-of-alltrades Henrik Vibskov’s boutique on Krystalgade and it’s likely to be a one-of-a-kind). As the number of bags hanging from my handlebars grows, I spend the afternoon coasting over bridges spanning quiet canals, gazing up at hulking Gothic churches and grazing at ultramodern design shops. If the weather’s warm, there’s nothing better than some time spent at a local beach. You could be forgiven for not intuitively associating sunny beaches with anything Nordic, but Denmark’s 7,300km of white, sandy coastline offers some of the most unexpectedly wonderful places to kick off your flip flops and while away an afternoon. During the summer months, locals head to Copencabana, an artificial beach in the city harbour with two outdoor pools and diving boards, but I hop on the fast train for the Zealand coast to take in the sandy swathes of upscale Tisvildeleje. Here, family-friendly sandbars and shallows, hikeable forests and a clutch of great restaurants and cafés look out to the Baltic’s Kattegat Bay. Working behind a jet-black, exposed-beam dining room in an 18th-century warehouse in Christianshavn, the provocative head chef at Noma (Strandgade 93, +45 3296 3297; noma.dk), René Redzepi, first made waves a decade ago with his strict dogma of seemingly simple Nordic dishes exclusively put together from seasonal, locallysourced ingredients. The foodie world entered something of a state of shock when Noma was named World’s Best Restaurant, but it meant the world began to take notice of Danish cuisine. Th Thee restaurant’s VIP status now draws celebrities and the beautiful people but,
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PHOTOGRAPH © ROUGH GUIDES/ROGER NORUM
COPENHAGEN
Above, wheel pleasure – bikes are the best way to get around Copenhagen; below, head chef at Noma, René Redzepi.
STAY AT ... SPLURGE One of the capital’s luxury hotel darlings is the Axel Hotel Guldsmeden (Helgolandsgade 11, +45 3331 3266; hotelguldsmeden.com), which features 129 primped, Balinese-style rooms decked out with four-poster beds, bathtubs and balconies. The Guldsmeden is just two blocks from the central train station, but you’d never know it once you’re tucked up inside. Rooms from DKK1195 (€160). MIDPRICE A bit further east is Nyhavn 71 (Nyhavn 71, +45 3343 6200; 71nyhavnhotel.com), a sedate,
Axel Hotel Guldsmeden
stylish hotel set within a grand, 19th-century brick warehouse and overlooking Copenhagen’s picturepostcard harbour, lined with buzzing restaurants. The 100-plus smallish rooms are charming, with plenty of exposed wooden beams, and the hotel’s recently refurbished gourmet restaurant is gaining quite a reputation these days. Rooms from DKK1045 (€140). BUDGET In a leafy street just beyond lively Vesterbrogade, the Hotel Sct. Thomas (Frederiksberg Allé 7, +45 3321 6464; hotelsctthomas.dk) is a gem of affordable three-star accommodation that is close to hip Værnedamsvej and a short walk from glorious Frederiksberg Gardens. It’s a bit of a trek from the city centre, but the friendly owners and very reasonable rates more than compensate. Rooms from DKK745 (€100).
thankfully, the Danish capital boasts Right, the Copenhagen a total of 14 Michelin stars, making Opera House great eating still within reach. and, below, I stop in at rustic-urban eatery contemporary furniture design Aamanns (Øster Farimagsgade 12, store, HAY, on +45 3555 3310; aamanns.dk), a Pilestræde. restaurant that has reworked the traditional smørrebrod (open rye bread sandwich) by doing away with thick, fatty meats and introducing fresh herbs and vegetables. Everything here is seasonal and sourced locally from Danish farmers, with exclusively free-range meat, and herring – a local favourite ingredient that has been caught, salted, dried and smoked here for centuries. I wash mine down with a shot of ice-cold STREET caraway schnapps. LORE Copenhagen’s extensive green Fires effectively destroyed spaces make it an Copenhagen in the 18th century. excellent place The city centre now consists of for afternoon wide streets of neoclassical brick picnics, too. I and stone buildings, with the pedal out one corners clipped so that fire afternoon to trucks could careen Værnedamsvej around them. near Vesterbro, one of the city’s coolest
5 THINGS TO DO ...
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CANAL TOUR The multilingual DFDS Tours (+45 3296 3000; canaltours.com) ferry visitors along Copenhagen’s centuries-old canals, offering a fascinating insight into important events and sights tied to Denmark’s history. They depart up to four times an hour and can pick up and drop off passengers at 14 different points of interest. HISTORY OF DESIGN This Henning Larsen-designed, glassfronted Danish Design Centre (HC Andersens Boulevard 27, +45 3369 3369; ddc.dk) has fascinating temporary exhibitions — and a small permanent display — that focus on local design innovations (think Zippo lighters, Wonderbras and early computers). But the real reason to come is the gift shop, which stocks a brilliant selection of design books, as well as drawers full of designer gadgets. COPENHAGEN CULTURAL NIGHT Though it comes just one night a year – the second Friday in October – the capital’s Cultural Night (+45 3315 1010; kulturnatten. dk) is when hundreds of venues all over the capital – churches, galleries, libraries, schools and exhibition halls – open up their doors for musical shows, poetry readings, art exhibitions and other events.
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RETRO CHIC SHOPPING Retro Villa (Badstuestræde 17, +45 3315 4058; retrovilla.dk) holds Scandinavia’s largest selection of original vintage wallpaper, amazing patchwork bedspreads and pillows, most gleaned from flea markets all around the country. It also sells furniture items, clothing, and ceramics from local designers such as Casalinga, På Bjørg and Finnsdotir.
Tivoli
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TIVOLI A true national treasure, the fairytale theme park of Tivoli (Vesterbrogade 3, +45 3315 1001; tivoli.dk) features beautifully landscaped gardens, fairground stalls, bandstands, theatres and plenty of amusement park rides. A must-visit attraction. Closes around midnight – even later on weekends.
just 5.5 million, Denmark is BIKE FOR LIFE ... With a population of million cars. Rent one at home to 4.2 million bicycles but only 1.2 +45 3314 0717; cykelborsen.dk Københavns Cykelbørs (Gothesgade 157, SEPTEMBER 2012
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phOTOgrAph © RouGh Guides/rOgEr NOruM
eaT aT ...
streets if you’re a foodie. Here, at specialty cheese shop Helges Ost (Værnedamsvej 9, +45 3324 4102; helgesost.dk), I find freshlybaked Danish bread, along with olives, sausages and cheese, and a bottle of Saint-Émilion at Juuls (Værnedamsvej 15, +45 3331 1328; juuls.dk) possibly the city’s best wine shop (it also sells some 350 different whiskeys). I plonk myself down on a patch of grass in the nearby lush, open expanses of Frederiksberg Gardens, right by the park’s atmospheric Chinese summerhouse. Danish culture often centres around family time, quiet nights with friends, and enjoying the Scandinavian great outdoors – all things that celebrate the typically Danish tradition of hygge (cosiness). But, given the opportunity, the Danes can also let their hair down when they want to. One great aspect of this compact and sexy urban retreat is that you can walk its streets until very late and nearly always find music lilting out of a bar or café. Come evening, I stop off at the hole in the wall Bo-Bi Bar with its refreshingly boho clientele of writers, journalists, artists, students and intellectuals. Just a few blocks away
is the newest, hippest spot to party – Vesterbro’s meatpacking district of Kødbyen. I nestle into a seat at what is still the standout place in this part of town, Karriere Bar, a heralded, experimental café-restaurant-barclub-art space. It’s packed to the gills with Scandi hipsters and their acolytes and the party goes on well into the night. In just a day or two of pedalling my way around I was swiftly reminded why Denmark ruled over much of Scandinavia for several centuries, and why its capital is still the best place in Northern Europe to let loose both during the day and after hours. Whether its architecture, food, cycling, nightlife or the great outdoors, this invigorating, refined and welcoming city comes alive like no other. If there is something rotten in the state of Denmark these days, it’s definitely not Copenhagen.
Above, Denmark is a nation of beerlovers, interesting bars can be found scattered throughout the city.
For more information on Copenhagen, see visitcopenhagen.com or visitdenmark.com, or pick up a copy of The Rough Guide to Copenhagen; roughguides.com
aer Lingus flies from Dublin to copenhagen daily, from October 28.
strong ellent microbrews. Brøckhouse IPA is a THIRSTY? ... Try one of Denmark’s exc e is a traditional stout with a light, very and hoppy pale ale; Ølfabriken Porterhous us is a heavy and inky lager. moreish taste and Hancock Dark Gambrin 86 |
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SpLURge Executive chef Lasse Askov serves a great mix of innovative modern European cooking at Kokkeriet (Kronprinsessegade 64, +45 3315 2777; kokkeriet.dk), his Michelin-starred treasure in the cosy Nyboder district. The menu includes some perennial chef’s specialties – pikeperch with cauliflower and Brussels sprouts, say, or lemon mousse with meringue – plus other goodies such as scallops with squid, oatmeal and truffle. For a restaurant of this quality, it’s surprisingly unpretentious, so prices tend to be lower than in Copenhagen’s other Michelin-starred restaurants.
Kokkeriet
MIDpRIce With a spacious and bright interior and floor-to-ceiling windows that look out to the water, Toldboden (Nordre Toldbod 24 , +45 3393 0760; restaurantjulian. com) is great for a casual indoor or outdoor meal. You get all the usual suspects here, plus vegetable pie, spareribs, traditional Danish liver paté, fish cakes, freshly baked bread and homemade jam. BUDgeT One Vesterbro institution that will never go out of style is Bang & Jensen (Istedgade 130, +45 3325 5318; blog.bangogjensen.dk), a former pharmacy-turned-hip-café with high stucco ceilings, a mahogany counter and plenty of hipster swagger. The casual bistro fare, which includes chorizo sandwiches, baba ganoush and chilli con carne, draws local musicians, artists and social entrepreneurs throughout the day, and tends to fill up before evening concerts at the nearby club, Vega.
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If you want to really treat yourself, consider the excellent Michelin-star restaurant, LE PRESSOIR D’ARGENT, right in the heart of Bordeaux, just opposite the Opera House. The Pressoir d’Argent offers French art de vivre to lovers of fine food – and those who are prepared to pay for it! (pressoir-argent.com)
CHÂTEAU DE LA LIGNE is just outside Bordeaux (about 15km east). It was bought by Belfast businessman Terry Cross in 2000 with the ambition to re-establish the Château as a gem of the Bordeaux appellation. Great location for weddings and conferences. Also has self-catering gîtes (cottages). (chateaudelaligne.com)
An Insider’s Guide to
BORDEAUX
Enjoy the architectural elegance of a beautiful city – and, of course, sample its great wines. Conor Maguire shares his insights into one of his favourite cities in France.
Bordeaux has a good network of BICYCLE PATHS. The best way to explore is with the help of an experienced guide to show you the hidden corners of the city, and maybe out as far as the beautiful village of SAINT-ÉMILION. Tours from €25. (bordeaux-by-bike.com) bordeaux-by-bike.com)
The BAR À VIN wine bar is a great place to drop by. Light atmosphere, with a wine list which offers a selection of reds, dry and offers sweet whites, rosés, clarets and sparkling wines. Suggestion of the house? Château de Bonhoste Prestige, 2010 – €2 per glass. (baravin.bordeaux.com baravin.bordeaux.com) (baravin.bordeaux.com)
If you’d like to take your knowledge of wine a little further, try the Connaisseur course at the L’ÉCOLE DU VIN (Bordeaux Wine School) for €49 in which you’ll enjoy evaluating of wines from the various Bordeaux vineyards. Maybe you’ll become an Ambassadeur de l’École du Vin de Bordeaux? (ecoleduvindebordeaux-campus.com)
For young folks, the one-hour CITY TOUR in a little train with commentary is fun and informative! Also, look for the lovely CAROUSEL in front of the Opera House. Further afield, AQUALAND is 55 km from Bordeaux – expect slides, dives and energetic fun. (aqualand.fr)
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BEING THERE
Owner of BORDEAUX SAVEURS wine tours, Sylvie Cazes is also the joint owner of Château Lynch-Bages, general manager of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, president of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, and municipal councillor for wine tourism and development of the Bordeaux wine sector – so, you’ll be in very good hands! (bordeauxsaveurs.com) Bordeaux has many antique and brocante/bric-a-brac dealers and fairs. There is always the possibility of fi finding nding something special. Explore these locations – LE PASSAGE ST MICHEL (aupassage.fr (aupassage.fr), also the RUE BOUFFARD and the RUE NOTRE DAME (shops open every day except Sunday), see, for example, VILLAGE NOTRE-DAME NOTRE-DAME. ((antiquitesbordeaux.com) antiquitesbordeaux.com
The best free attraction in Bordeaux, by night or by day, is its glorious architecture. It’s a UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE – with 347 listed buildings. Reflecting the Flight of the Earls, there are 14 chateaux, ten streets, two wine communes and one public monument, with Irish names! On hot days, take a refreshing stroll through the ingenious MIROIR D’EAU near the Place de la Bource. (bordeaux-tourisme.com)
Like to win your own weight in a top Médoc wine? Then sign up for the crazy MÉDOC MARATHON (marathondumedoc.com). The 2012 race is on September 8.
, is within easy d’hôte, close to the Jardin Public re mb cha ou bij a E, US HO E ADAR ck) is a mine of Owner Mary Pratt (from Limeri . tre cen the of ce tan dis ng lki wa aux-bnb.com) ns. Rooms from €105. (en.borde tio rac att y's cit the on on ati inform
RUE SAINTE-CATHERINE is the main, and longest (1.2 km), shopping street in Bordeaux, with some very stylish shops – a haven for the truly committed shopaholic. But remember, shops open a very civilised Monday to Saturday.
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF BORDEAUX TOURIST OFFICE AND THOMAS SANSON - MAIRIEDE BORDEAUX
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OPHORUS WINE TOURS,, of various prices, offer a great introduction to some of the best local wines. Private tours include hotel pick up and drop off – contact them to arrange. Consider the in-depth Médoc Wine Tour – half day, €260; (ophorus.com)
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bordeaux, Mon, Wed, Thur, Fri and Sun.
SEPTEMBER 2012
MORE ABOUT CONOR Conor Maguire has lived or worked in France for over 30 years, and loves the quality of life there. He finds that there is a real appreciation of the long historical friendship and collaboration between Ireland and France. Conor recommends reading The Irish Chateaux — in Search of the Descendents of the Wild Geese by Renagh Holohan which recounts the flight of Ireland's nobility and their establishment in France. Their chateaux are located throughout the country, with a particular concentration around Bordeaux. Conor lives near the lovely town of Saumur on the banks of the Loire River. (chateaudebeaulieu.fr)
PETERS
BARS & RESTAURANTS
THE MUCKY DUCK Celbridge, Co. Kildare
01 6288340 / muckyduck.ie Situated in the heart of Celbridge, Co. Kildare Guinness Time began here in the Guinness family home with the birth of Arthur Guinness in 1725. So began a wonderful piece of Irish history. With that heritage it's no surprise that the Mucky Duck has earned a reputation for great food and drink. A must visit for fans of the "Black Stuff "!
John Farrington Antiques FINE ANTIQUE
AND
CONTEMPORARY JEWELS
THE COUNTY CLUB Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath
01 8259220 / countyclub.ie Located less than 30 minutes from Dublin city centre The County Club has long been a favourite with customers looking for great f ood in comfortable surroundings. The County Club's daily carvery is a particular favourite while we are also renowned for our wonderful Irish steaks.
AN SIBIN
Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8250556 / sibin.ie With it's traditional thatched roof An Sibin is a landmark in the heart of the village of Dunshaughlin. A blend comfort and age old of new world com tradition serving breakfast, lunch and dinner while also the perfect venue for parties and great nights out.
S T EA K O N T H E S T O NE
Our signature Steak on the Stone special is a must have, a unique dining experience which is available on all our a la carte menus.
CARBERRYS
Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8240133 / carberrys.ie Summer 2012 promises to be a bumper period for sports fans so Carberry's is the place to be to sample a all the atmosphere while also enjoying the summer days in our outdoor pavilion.
O ’ F L AH ER TY S / BR AD Y ’ S BA R Navan, Co. Meath 046 9022810 / oflahertys.ie Whether you visit O'Flaherty's for our delicious carvery, a night out with friends or to catch live sport on our big sc screens you are sure to have a memorable time and why not have a nightcap around the roaring fire in Brady's Bar! Sláinte.
THE WILTON Cork City
021 4344454 / www.wiltonpub.ie Long established on Leeside with fine food served all day in the lounge bar and upstairs in our Loft Restaurant. The Wilton is a must on your next visit W to Cork. Don't forget to leave room for our famous homemade, brown bread ice cream!
Visi t us On line
32 DRURY STREET, DUBLIN 2. TEL: +353-1-6791899 Email: john@johnfarringtonantiques.com www.johnfarringtonantiques.com
BEING THERE
... N I S R U O 48 H
Venice
You will discover some of the best places in this most beautiful and romantic city just by wandering. Frances Power points you in the right direction.
E
ven in high season, it’s easy to escape the press at St Mark’s Square and wander the backstreets where washing is strung like bunting, in search of old Venice. Do the Doge’s Palace, the Basilica di San Marco and the Campanile (the view from the top is spectacular) early morning, then ditch the map and your itinerary and go walkabout. You’ll find plenty to enjoy. EAT AND DRINK AT … You don’t need to spend like a billionaire to find good food in Venice. Steer clear of tourist traps near St Mark’s Square and you’ll find some of the best seafood on offer anywhere. Take an al fresco table at family-owned Osteria Oliva Nera (Castello 3417, +39 041 522 2170; osteria-olivanera.com), where the fresh take on Venetian favourites is a delight. Be sure to order their stuffed zucchini flowers – and if you’re lucky enough to be offered a snifter of their homemade limoncello, drink deeply. This little jewel is at the pricier end of the scale (about €60 for dinner, with wine), but you won’t regret it. Take a five-minute vaporetto trip to the peaceful island of Giudecca. Down a narrow alley, you’ll
Venice is all about detail
Osteria La Zu
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cca
find Altanella (booking recommended – Giudecca 268, +39 041 522 7780), a family-run trattoria where a garden verandah overlooks a canal with boats moored alongside each other like so many sardines in a can. The menu is simple, fresh and delicious – Grandma Irma’s gnocchi with cuttlefish ink, homemade pasta with anchovy sauce, just-landed marinaded sardines ... (meals, approx €40). Afterwards, wander along the quayside and soak up the atmosphere. Veg-lovers should make a beeline (be sure to book first) for Osteria La Zucca (Calle del Tintor, at Ponte del Megio, Santa Croce 1762, +39 041 524 1570;
lazucca.it), near San Giacomo Square, a small but busy spot where the vegetable is king, but meat is also on the menu. Try lunch or dinner in one of the bustling bacari (wine bars), above, where cicheti, tasty snacks, eaten standing or perched on a bar stool, will give you a flavour of eating like a local. At the tiny All’ Arco (San Polo 436, Calle Arco, lunch only), near Rialto, graze on roast vegetables, langoustine, calamari, cheeses on bread (about €15) …
take a traghetto (50¢ per crossing), CHEAP THRILL ... Make like a local and Grand Canal. Venetians stand up the local equivalent of a bus, to cross the gondoliers row across. (best not attempted in high heels) as the
SLEEP AT … Top of the scale, is the grand old dame of Venetian hotels, the Cipriani (Giudecca 10, Fondamenta San Giovanni, +39 041 240 801; hotelcipriani.com). Opt for one of the elegant rooms in the main hotel or, if you want to push the boat out, book a suite at the Palazzo Vendramin, the 15th-century residence that comes complete with butler. A big draw here – besides the stunning views – is the Olympic-size swimming pool where you’ll find a surprising number of families at play. If nothing else, treat yourself to a Bellini on the terrace as the sun goes down or an excellent dinner at the relaxed Cip’s Club restaurant by the waterside. Definitely one for romantics. Rooms from €550 plus VAT. If you prefer modern to Murano, and want to hang with the glitterati, PalazzinaG (Sestriere San Marco 3247, +39 041 528 4644; palazzinag. com) is your best stop (Johnny Depp was spotted here when The Tourist was being shot). This 16th century palazzo has been given the Philippe Starck treatment and is appropriately high design, all glass and mirrors, leather and deep warm shades. Rooms from €470. For first-timers to Venice – and those who want to be near the
action at St Mark’s Square – Locanda Art Deco (with six rooms) and its sister establishment, Residenza Art Deco (San Marco 2966, Calle delle Botteghe, +39 041 277 0558; locandaartdeco.com) offer both the usual hotel rooms and self-catering apartments (a good option for family visits). Rooms from €149. Near Rialto Bridge, where you can browse among the souvenirs, masks, bags and jewellery stalls, you’ll find Ca’ Arco Antico (San Polo 1451, +39 041 241 1227; arcoanticovenice.com). If you’re planning to visit the Venice Film Festival (runs to September 8; labiennale.org/en/cinema/), this low-key and friendly B&B is close to Campo San Polo, which becomes an open-air cinema for screenings. Double rooms from €60.
Peggy Guggenheim Museum
DON’T MISS … Take a punt on a gondola – it may be a cliché but it’s a great way to discover the city. For suggested itineraries, check out the Istituzione per la Conservazione della Gondola e la Tutela del Gondoliere (gondolavenezia.it). Daytime rates, €80 for 40 minutes, for up to six passengers; there’s a supplement of €20 at night-time (7pm-8am) and a serenade costs extra. Most of us have a Bellini at Harry’s Bar on our Venice hit list, but cheaper, less thronged and with a nice outdoor
view, is little brother Harry’s Dolci (Fondamenta Venieon, Giudecca, +39 041 522 4884). Go outside meal times and order a coffee and la torta al cioccolato (chocolate cake) and settle in a for a spell of people watching. Art lovers are spoilt for choice in this artdrenched city. If modern art is your thing, treat yourself to an afternoon at the exquisite Peggy Guggenheim Museum in her former home. With works by Kandinsky, Rothko, Dalí, Picasso and a sculpture garden where
Moore and Giacometti feature and a café to wander around, it’s the perfect size for a quick dip into culture. (Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 704, +39 041 240 5411; guggenheimvenice.it). Come evening, take a stroll down Le Zattere, the promenade that runs the length of the southern shore of the Dorsoduro district. Leave plenty of time for gazing at the fine palazzi and churches such as Spirito Santo and I Gesuati. This is a popular spot for the locals to enjoy a drink by
the Giudecca Canal. It’s as good an excuse as any to sample some of the world’s finest gelato at Da Nico (Zattere 922, +39 041 522 5293) and claim one of the many benches to savour the view.
Cip’s Club at Hotel Cipriani looks across the lagoon to St Mark’s Square.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Venice, Tues, Thur, Sat and Sun.
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InFlight
For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including The Avengers (pictured), turn to page 100.
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WelcomeAboard Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ...
For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.
Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.
... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.
Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.
Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the fl flight, ight, however devices equipped with flight flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off off.. DEVICES PERMITTED ✔ AT ANY TIME: Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.
DEVICES PERMITTED ● IN FLIGHT BUT NOT DURING TAXI/TAKE-OFF/
INITIAL CLIMB/APPROACH LANDING: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology
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with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected. DEVICES PROHIBITED ✘ AT ALL TIMES: Devices transmitting radio frequency
intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.
Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat Food and bar service
News, music and movies
Seirbhís bia agus beáir
Nuacht, ceol agus scannáin
A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.
On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.
Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamhmheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.
Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.
Tá suil
h Aer Lingus. t flight. Thank you for choosing to fly wit san plea and able fort com a e hav you e We hop le hAer Lingus. agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal ach mh nea tait h dac por com s tura íonn againn go mb
Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis. GLÉASANNA A BHFUIL ✔ CEADAITHE I GCÓNAÍ: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as
micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.
GLÉASANNA ATÁ ● CEADAITHE I RITH NA HEITILTE, ACH NACH
BHFUIL CEADAITHE LE LINN DON EITLEÁN BHEITH AG GLUAISEACHT AR TALAMH/AG ÉIRÍ DE THALAMH/ AG TABHAIRT FAOIN DREAPADH TOSAIGH/ AG DÍRIÚ AR THUIRLINGT/ AG TUIRLINGT: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir
Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe). Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.
GLÉASANNA A BHFUIL ✘ COSC IOMLÁN ORTHU: Gléasanna a tharchuireann
minicíocht raidió d’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha. Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí. Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).
SMOKING In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. TOBAC De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh. Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.
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AerLingusNews AER LINGUS WELCOMES TEAM IRELAND ON HOMECOMING FLIGHT
Aer Lingus, proud sponsors of Ireland’s Olympic Team, welcomed Team Ireland on board its special homecoming flight on August 13. Flight number EI 159, an airbus A321 named St Aidan, carrying 200 passengers, including Team Ireland, departed London Heathrow at 1pm and arrived in Dublin at 1.50pm. A special Olympic lunch menu was offered to passengers, which included healthy snack options. As a memento of the official homecoming flight, each passenger received a gift of a retro sports bag, designed in the vintage Aer Lingus “Irish Airlines” colours. The aircraft was met by Dublin Airport fire service and escorted to its parking stand at T2. The athletes including medal winners Katie Taylor, John Joe Nevin, Paddy Barnes, Michael Conlon and Cian O’Connor were greeted by their families and friends at Dublin Airport. Speaking on the occasion, Aer Lingus CEO Christoph Mueller said, “We are incredibly proud to welcome the Irish Olympic Team on board the special Aer Lingus homecoming flight. On behalf of all the staff at Aer Lingus, I would like to take this opportunity to offer our congratulations to Team Ireland on their success in the London Olympic Games.”
Top, Team Ireland athletes upon their arrival at Dublin airport on board the special Aer Lingus homecoming flight, being welcomed by Aer Lingus CEO Christoph Mueller. Below, Katie Taylor waves the Irish flag.
AER LINGUS CONTINUES STRONG PERFORMANCE IN FIRST HALF OF 2012 Aer Lingus recently announced its results for the six month period ended 30 June 2012.
3.4%
10.1%
Passenger numbers increased
Total revenue increased January to 30 June 2012
º Long haul performance was particularly strong, with passenger volumes and yield up 11% and 9%, respectively.
º Total revenue for the first six months of the year increased by 10.1% compared to the same period in 2011.
custom. We thank our passengers for their valued r our customers, We will continue on our promise to offe Great Care and Great Fares.
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AerLingusNews THE IOLAR MAKES A FLYING VISIT TO CAMBRIDGE ON THE EVE OF THE OLYMPICS
AER LINGUS ANNOUNCES CODESHARE AGREEMENT WITH ETIHAD AIRWAYS
Aer Lingus has reached a commercial agreement with Etihad Airways regarding interline and code-share arrangements. It is planned that Aer Lingus will cooperate with Etihad Airways on flights between Abu Dhabi and Dublin and have full access to flights across the network beyond Abu Dhabi, to points including Australia, Asia-Pacific, the Indian Subcontinent and the Middle East. In addition, Etihad will co-operate with Aer Lingus on services to a total of 18 destinations, including Dublin to New York, Boston, London Heathrow, Amsterdam, Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh and Lisbon. The interline and code-share arrangements commenced in August 2012 and will further enhance the already wide range of destinations and travel opportunities available to customers booking on aerlingus.com.
The Iolar, flown by Captain Pat Murphy and accompanied by Navigator Clifford Lebioda and Engineer John Fields, touched down at Cambridge Airport recently en route to the Texel Airshow in the Netherlands. The De Havilland DH84 Dragon, EAIBI named Iolar,, the Gaelic word for “Eagle”, was delivered to the newly formed Aer Lingus in 1936 and operated the very first Aer Lingus flight on May 27 of that year, carrying five passengers from Baldonnel to Bristol. This aircraft, which visited Cambridge, is the sister aircraft of the original Iolar and was lovingly restored by Aer Lingus personnel last year in time for the airline’s 75th Anniversary celebrations. The Texel
Rob ert a Zam uls kyt e, pic tur ed her e wit h the Iola r, pre par es for flig ht in vin tag e Aer Lin gus uni for m, des ign ed by Ire ne Gil ber t.
Airshow was the first stop of a German tour, which will finish at the Berlin Airshow from September 11-16. Other events which the Iolar will take part in along the way include: September º 1-3 Essen º 4-6 Hannover º 7-10 Hamburg º 11-13 ILA Berlin Airshow
Pictured at the launch of the Aer Lingus Homecoming Hurling Tournament, in association with The Gathering, were Aer Lingus CEO Christoph Mueller and Galway hurlers Niall Burke and Johnny Coen.
AER LINGUS HOMECOMING HURLING TOURNAMENT
Aer Lingus, in support of The Gathering, will host “The Aer Lingus Gathering Hurling Tournament”, which promises to be a significant sporting event on the Irish calendar, in 2013. Aer Lingus has teamed up with Leinster Hurling champions, Galway, and the Galway Hurling Supporters Club, to make the event an even greater success. Through the airline’s strong link with Galway GAA, they intend to reach out to the Irish Diaspora all over the world and encourage players and fans of our national game to visit their ancestral
home for this exciting event. The competition will take place in Galway in September 2013 and will involve 16 teams from around the world and, of course, from the four provinces of Ireland. The tournament will involve 15-a-side teams competing in four separate groups of four. Each team will play a minimum of three games.
Aer Lingus is working closely with Tourism Ireland to help promote the Gathering initiative and to encourage the global Irish community to return to Ireland for many of the planned events. The airline will offer special promotional fares to and from Ireland for those travelling to the series of events in 2013.
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infLigHT ENTERTAINMENT
FLIGHTS TO THE US From Dublin to Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando; from Shannon to Boston and New York; from Madrid to Washington. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.
Movies
Marvel’s The Avengers
FLIGHTS TO THE US mARvEL’S THE AvEngERS
fRiEnDS WiTH kiDS
DR SEUSS’ THE LORAX
Marvel’s The Avengers is the Super Hero team up of a lifetime. When an unexpected enemy emerges that threatens global safety and security, Nick Fury, director of the international peacekeeping agency, finds himself in need of a team to pull the world back from the brink of disaster. Spanning the globe, a daring recruitment effort begins and The Avengers Initiative is born. Iron Man, The Hulk, Thor, Captain America, and Hawkeye assemble, learning to work together instead of independently. The Avengers is the 3rd biggest grossing movie of all time.
Friends with Kids is a daring and poignant ensemble comedy about a close-knit circle of friends at that moment in life when children arrive and everything changes. The last two singles in the group observe the effect that kids have had on their friends’ relationships and wonder if there’s a better way. They decide to have a kid together – and date other people. There are big laughs and unexpected emotional truths as this unconventional “experiment” leads everyone in the group to question the nature of friendship, family and, finally, true love. Stars Irish actor Chris O’Dowd of Bridesmaids fame.
The world of Dr Seuss comes to life like never before in this lively adventure from the creators of Despicable Me!, Dr Seuss’ The Lorax is an adaptation of Dr Seuss’ classic tale of a forest creature who shares the enduring power of hope. Twelve-yearold Ted will do anything to find a real life Truffala Tree in order to impress the girl of his dreams. As he embarks on his journey, Ted discovers the incredible story of the Lorax, a grumpy but charming creature who speaks for the trees. This animated feature for all ages features catchy tunes and hilarious gags borrowed from other classic family movies, from Toy Story to Babe.
STARS Robert Downey Jr, Mark Ruffalo, Scarlett Johansson, Chris Evans, Chris Hemsworth, Jeremy Renner DiREcTOR Joss Whedon
STARS Kristen Wiig, Chris O’Dowd, Jon Hamm, Adam Scott, Maya Rudolph, Jennifer Westfeldt DiREcTOR Jennifer Westfeldt
Action / Sci-Fi / Fantasy (PG 13) 142 minutes
Drama / Comedy (R) 100 minutes
Animation / Kids / Family (PG) 94 minutes
Friends with Kids
STARS DannyDeVito, Zac Efron, Taylor Swift DiREcTOR Chris Renaud
More Movies On Demand
Dr Seuss’ The Lorax
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THE THREE STOOgES Sean Hayes AmERicAn REUniOn Jason Biggs THE LUcky OnE Zac Efron miRROR miRROR Julia Roberts THE RAvEn Brendan Gleeson THink LikE A mAn Gabrielle Union DARLing cOmpAniOn Diane Keaton SEEking JUSTicE January Jones
cOmmE Un cHEf Jean Reno fATHER Of invEnTiOn Kevin Spacey TOUcHbAck Kurt Russell gOOn Seann William Scott fLickA: cOUnTRy pRiDE Lisa Hartman kUng fU pAnDA 2 Jack Black WALLAcE & gROmiT: cURSE Of THE WERE RAbbiT Helena Bonham Carter
FLIGHTS FROM THE US From Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando to Dublin; from New York and Boston to Shannon; from Washington to Madrid. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.
Movies
The Hunger Games
FLIGHTS FROM THE US
THE piRATES! BAND of MiSfiTS
THE HUNGER GAMES
THE fiVE-yEAR ENGAGEMENT Comedy (R) 124 minutes
Adventure / Kids / Family / Comedy ( PG ) 87 minutes
Every year in the ruins of what was once North America, the evil Capitol of the nation of Panem forces each of its twelve districts to send a teenage boy and girl to compete in the Hunger Games. The Hunger Games are a nationally televised event in which “Tributes” must fight with one another until one survivor remains. Pitted against highly-trained Tributes, Katniss is forced to rely upon her sharp instincts as well as the mentorship of a former victor and make impossible choices in the arena that weigh survival against humanity and life against love.
The director and writer/star of Forgetting Sarah Marshall team up again for the irreverent comedy The Five-Year Engagement. Beginning where most romantic comedies end, the new film from director Nicholas Stoller, producer Judd Apatow and Rodney Rothman looks at what happens when an engaged couple, Jason Segel and Emily Blunt, keeps getting tripped up on the long walk down the aisle. The Five-Year Engagement is a truly modern romantic comedy that benefits from the easy chemistry of its leads; the funny and romantic script adds surprising depth and intelligence to the movie.
In The Pirates! Band of Misfits, Hugh Grant stars in his first animated role as the luxuriantly bearded Pirate Captain – a boundlessly enthusiastic, if somewhat lessthan-successful, terror of the high seas. With a rag-tag crew at his side the Captain has one dream: to beat his bitter rivals Black Bellamy and Cutlass Liz to the much coveted Pirate Of The Year award. It’s a quest that takes our heroes from the shores of exotic Blood Island to the foggy streets of Victorian London. Along the way they battle a diabolical queen and team up with a haplessly smitten young scientist, but never lose sight of what a pirate loves best: adventure!
Fantasy / Sci-Fi / Drama (PG 13) 144 minutes
STARS Jennifer Lawrence, Josh Hutcherson, Woody Harrelson, Lenny Kravitz DiREcToR Gary Ross
STARS Emily Blunt, Jason Segel DiREcToR Nicholas Stoller
The Pirates! Band of Misfits
STARS VoicES of Hugh Grant, Brendan Gleeson, Martin Freeman, Salma Hayek, David Tennant DiREcToR Peter Lord
More Movies On Demand
The Five-Year Engagement
WRATH of THE TiTANS Liam Neeson coRiolANUS Ralph Fiennes DETAcHMENT Adrien Brody WilD Bill Charlie Creed-Miles lA ViE D’UNE AUTRE Juliette Binoche SAlMoN fiSHiNG iN THE yEMEN Ewan McGregor A liTTlE BiT of HEAVEN Kate Hudson cABiN iN THE WooDS Chris Hemsworth
WANDERlUST Jennifer Aniston THE BEST ExoTic MARiGolD HoTEl Judi Dench fAST GiRlS Lenora Crichlow yoUR SiSTER’S SiSTER Emily Blunt AlABAMA MooN John Goodman MADAGAScAR 2: EScApE To AfRicA Ben Stiller SHREk foREVER AfTER Cameron Diaz
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INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT
Television On Demand TV gives you the opportunity to select and view your favourite TV shows at your leisure. Look out for the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of comedy and drama as well as a variety of genres. COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS encompasses fresh new comedy from HBO in Veep, Girls and How To Make It In America. Further comedy highlights take in New Girl, Nurse Jackie, Modern Family, Futurama, Rev and Absolutely Fabulous 20th Anniversary Special. Classic comedy features Father Ted, Sex and The City and Cheers. As we witness a golden age in TV drama – Aer Lingus brings you an appealing selection of DRAMA TV with the availability of both one-off and multiple episodes. Keep an eye out for two episodes of the compelling and cleverly conceived In Treatment starring Gabriel Byrne. In the stylish, smart and black comic drama Dexter, the main protagonist moonlights as a serial killer in Miami in pursuit of the coldblooded Ice Truck Killer. Also available is Bones which is inspired by real-life forensic anthropologist and best-selling novelist Kathy Reichs. BBC investigative drama Scott and Bailey explores the personal and professional lives of two female detectives.
Veep
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Available On-Demand is six episodes of Season 2 from the HBO triumph Boardwalk Empire. Steve Buscemi stars in this award-winning drama series that charts the continued rise of organised crime at the dawn of Prohibition in Atlantic City, New Jersey. “In Season 2 all the promise of last season looks to be realized with impressively deft storytelling, beautiful cinematography and impeccable acting.” (Hollywood Reporter) Premium HBO drama continues in Treme with the first six episodes of Season 2. This Emmy-nominated drama series takes place during the rebuilding of post-Katrina New Orleans. It charts the interconnected stories of several struggling musicians and locals, as they attempt to rebuild their lives through the music and traditions that make them, and the city, unique. The stylish Mad Men is set in a fictional 1960s advertising agency in New York City. This complex and intelligent drama has received much critical acclaim, particularly for its historical authenticity and visual style and has won multiple Emmy and Golden Globe awards. Available On-Demand is six episodes from Season 4. Watch out for six episodes of Season 2 of Blue Bloods – also set in New York, it stars Tom Selleck. This drama is a solid and gritty character-driven, multi-story series and Selleck’s character serves as the anchor for four generations of police officers. Award-winning drama continues with The Good Wife – a drama about a politician’s wife who pursues her own career as a defense attorney after her husband is
In Treatment
ON DEMAND
Modern Family charged with political corruption. Julianna Margulies has been widely recognised for her portrayal of Alicia Florrick, winning an Emmy in 2011, Screen Actors Guild Awards in 2010 and 2011, a Golden Globe in 2009. Available On-Demand are six episodes from Season 3. TEENS onboard can view Glee, Shake It Up and The Simpsons and kids will love Bob The Builder, Barney and Friends, Pingu and Thomas and Friends. LIFESTYLE AND MUSIC HIGHLIGHTS include America’s Next Top Model, Grand Designs, Jamie’s 30 Minute Meals, Anthony Bourdain: The Layover, Top Gear, Inside the Actors Studio (George Clooney), Bear Grylls Wild Weekend, Movie Talk, Other Voices, Black Cab Sessions USA, With Great Power: The Stan Lee Story, Planet Rock Profiles, Paul Simon (Live in New York) and HSBC Golfing World. DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS take in Megastructures with an episode on London’s Olympic Stadium. Enter a world beyond imagination in BBC’s Frozen Planet narrated by Sir David Attenborough. Titanic at 100 is a special History Channel feature to coincide with the disasters 100th anniversary. Test Your Brain from National Geographic concludes your choice of TV.
All profits to are donated ’s ren d il h C h is Ir Charities THE MUSEUM IS HOME TO IRELAND’S
LARGEST PERIOD DOLL’S HOUSE
Explore the magical miniature world of Tara’s Palace Museum of Childhood at Powerscourt House. Each room in Tara’s Palace is furnished with miniature masterpieces, hand painted ceilings and hand crafted wooden and marble floors. Perfect for all ages from 5 to 105. Powerscourt House, Enniskerry, Co.Wicklow, Ireland CALL: +353 (0)1 2748090 EMAIL: info@taraspalace.ie
www.taraspalace.ie
U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS
Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for: • • • • •
Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers
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Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals. Personal service and fast turnaround assured.
OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY AND KILKENNY, IRELAND
New York T: 212 965-1148
Kilkenny T: 056-7767994
MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION
www.obrienandassociates.com
of art, artifacts and ephemera relating to the Great Hunger that devastated Ireland from 1845 to 1852. This exceptional museum makes visible the interconnections between Irish and diasporic history, culture and memory.
LILIAN LUCY DAVIDSON ARHA (1879-1954) Burying the Child Oil on canvas 24 x 30 in
Q u i n n i p i a c U n i ve r s i t y
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3 0 1 1 W h i t n e y Ave n u e H a m d e n , C T
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(203) 582 8655
w w w. i g h m . o r g
O C T O B E R
world’s largest collection
O P E N I N G
Ireland’s Great Hunger Museum is home to the
2 0 1 2
IRELAND'S GREAT HUNGER MUSEUM
Radio
ON DEMAND
Pop
Talk Radio Documentary Easy Listening
Fitzpatrick Hotels
Chart Hits
Best of Moncrieff
Music Generation
This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information fitzpatrickhotels.com. Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.
Chart Hits lets you discover the latest chart hits as well as keeping tabs on your favourite artists. This upto-the-minute Pop show unveils the biggest smash hits from the world’s biggest artists. Featuring newcomers to the scene – Nicki Minaj and Emeli Sandé as well as established artists Katy Perry, Usher, Coldplay, Adele and the queen of pop Madonna – do not miss the exciting sounds of Chart Hits.
Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.
Music Generation – Ireland’s National Music Education Programme funded by generous donations from U2 and The Ireland Funds – helps young people access music education in their local area. In this documentary, Doireann Ní Bhriain travels to Louth, Sligo and Mayo to meet many of those behind the programme who tell the story of how it all began. This documentary is funded by The Broadcasting Authority of Ireland in association with RTÉ lyric fm and Music Generation.
Jazz
Classical
Documentary On One Documentary On One is the multiaward winning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (88-90FM). Currently the most successful documentary unit in the world; the documentary featured here is “On a Cape Clear Day” and focuses on an American couple who retired to Cape Clear Island off the coast of Ireland. The website rte.ie/doconone contains over 900 radio documentaries – all freely available to listen to/podcast. You can also download the free Documentary on One iPhone and/or Android app. Twitter @RTEDocOnOne
Interview
Classical Daytime
My Tunes
Jazz Alley
Niall Carroll presents a selection of great music from the heart of the core classical repertoire. Classical Daytime features some of the world’s most loved relaxing classics including Mozart’s Clarinet Concerto, Rodrigo’s Guitar masterpiece Concierto de Aranjuez and Saint-Saens Symphony No.3, “Organ”. This show is the ideal accompaniment to your flight and Classical Daytime can also be enjoyed on RTÉ lyric fm MondayFriday from 10am-2pm.
In this edition of My Tunes Aedín Gormley invites film director John Boorman to select, listen to and discuss music from his films. The renowned film director has made Ireland his home and here he discusses a lifetime of making films with a particular emphasis on the role of music in his films from the duelling banjos of Deliverance to Richie Buckley’s snazzy saxophone tunes in The General. My Tunes is on RTÉ lyric fm on Mondays from 7pm-8pm. Twitter @RTÉlyricfm
Donald Helme devotes Jazz Alley to the most popular instrument in the western world, the guitar, in both 6- and 7-string form. Helme focuses on the guitar which only came late to jazz, once the amplifier was invented in the 1930s. Featured artists include Anthony Wilson, Chuck Wayne, Howard Alden and the inventor of the 7-string, George Van Eps. Jazz Alley is on RTÉ lyric fm on Wednesday evenings from 7pm-8pm. Twitter @RTÉlyricfm
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Radio
ON DEMAND
Modern Hits
Eclectic Mix
Traditional Irish
Kids
Tubridy
Ronan Collins
Ceol na nGael
RTÉ Jr
Ryan Tubridy’s unique showmanship, intelligence and wit is broadcast to the nation every weekday morning on RTÉ 2fm. Tubridy is spontaneous, entertaining and intelligent, and in this show he plays his favourite songs featuring a diverse mix of modern hits from pop, rock to alternative and much more. Tubridy is one of Ireland’s most prolific broadcasters. Twitter @Tubridy2fm
RTE Radio 1 presenter Ronan Collins’ easygoing personality is a welcome interlude from the busy world around us. Tune in to this eclectic mix of songs where you will hear old favourites, new hits and hidden gems. Ronan enjoys the challenge of filling his programme with the kind of music that will make you smile, relax and reminisce. Twitter @RTERadio1
Ceol na nGael is a traditional and folk music programme presented, in Irish, by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Seán presents the weekly music programme Sruth na Maoile on RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and celebrates 40 years on air in 2012. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth, le Seán Ó hÉanaigh. For more visit: rte.ie/rnag. RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta is on Facebook and Twitter @RTERnaG.
Join Colm Flynn and all his friends from “The Club” on RTÉjr Radio for a fun-packed show to enjoy during your flight! There’s music, a Disney quiz, fun facts about flying, books, and special guests Jedward! RTÉjr Radio is Ireland’s only radio station that’s just for children. You can tune in on your digital radio, online rte. ie/digitalradio/rtejr Saorview and on the RTÉ Radio Player on your mobile device to hear more.
Alternative
Countdown
Rock
1980s
Phantom 105.2
The Big 10
Cleared for Take-Off
Copeland Classic Hits
Phantom 105.2 is quite simply the home of the very best music played on any Irish radio station. Phantom is committed to playing brand new music, Indie Rock but really we will play all genres of music – if it’s a great track, we will play it. Oh, we also like having a bit of craic along the way so why not try something different and tune into Phantom 105.2 – we promise you won’t be disappointed! We are Phantom – music that rocks!
The Big 10 on 98FM features ten songs with a connection. Tune into the countdown every Sunday morning at 10am as we countdown The Big 10, each week a different set of songs are featured each with a different connection. Presented by Darragh O’Dea of Dublin’s 98 FM, this special edition of the show focuses on the acts that will be playing concerts in Ireland this year.
You’re cleared for take-off every weekday morning from 6am until 10am with Pat Courtenay on Radio Nova. Also tune in to Nova for Breakfast Reheated every Saturday from 8am until 10am. Courtenay’s show is a perfect combination of entertainment and of course the world’s greatest guitar-based songs. You can call Nova Breakfast on (01) 440 4 100. We’re online at nova.ie and you can download our app to listen to us wherever you are in the world.
Welcome to the music of Copeland Classic Hits brought to courtesy of Louis Copeland & Sons, a name synonymous with men’s tailoring in Dublin. Classic Hits is an exciting selection of hits from the 1980s. Louis Copeland is a world renowned master tailor and provider of men’s suits for over 100 years. His stores are located on in Dublin on Capel St, Pembroke St and Wicklow St and beside the IFSC, in Dublin Airport and in Galway. From Armani, Hugo Boss, Paul Smith and more- all leading labels are available in all stores. louiscopeland.com
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IT’S SIMPLE. WHEN YOUR BAG FITS, WE’LL LEAVE ON TIME. At Aer Lingus, we take great care to make sure that every flight leaves on time. One way you can help is by having the right sized baggage. So please make sure your carry-on luggage fits. That way, we’ll board easily and get you on your way in no time.
Great Care. Great Fare.
Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board to allow your skin to breathe, and apply a good moisturiser throughout. Stretch your legs as much as possible by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anticlockwise. Bend and straighten your ankles in a brisk manner with the knee straight. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.
Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce any possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. And remember to move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness. We wish you an enjoyable experience.
Carry-on baggage Reducing the effects of jet-lag
Passengers with wheelchair requirements
To help reduce the effects of travelling and jet-lag before, during and after your flight, we have introduced an audio programme (available on Channel 6), which will play every other hour, offering 60 minutes of soothing and relaxing audio environments. The programme is designed to enhance your physical and mental wellbeing during the flight.
Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.
Apart from tuning in to the inflight relaxation programme, here are some other simple things that you can do to prepare for your journey. Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities gradually to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will also help to stimulate your circulation.
If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows:
Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below. AER LINGUS
55cm (22ins)
email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com Telephone:
Maximum weight
10kg
AER LINGUS REGIONAL
48cm (19ins)
(22 lbs)
24cm (9ins)
40cm (16ins)
Maximum weight
7kg (15 lbs)
20cm (8ins)
33cm (13ins)
In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices
(Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222
EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.
Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.
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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other
passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not
be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.
Unsure of the right destination for your cosmetic treatment? BEACON FACE AND DERMATOLOGY Dublin 18; provide a number of Facial Aesthetic treatments which are tailored to suit your needs.
We offer you a relaxing, safe and secure environment where you can expect the highest quality of care both non-surgical and surgical.
TOP 8 FAV’S
Our consultants bring their wealth of expertise and experience together to ensure the outcome you desire. Beacon Face and Dermatology is a medical and cosmetic clinic with specialist consultants and staff who are highly trained and eminently qualified.
Wrinkle Relaxer
Rhinoplasty (Nose)
Fillers (Plumping)
Blepharoplasty (eyelids)
Pelleve (Skin Tightening)
Non Invasive( Body Contouring)
Lasers (pigmentation, sun damage, wrinkles, hair removal)
Facelift (Jowls)
Mr. Kambiz Golchin,
Take the first step. Contact us. For an initial meeting to discuss your needs, just get in touch. We open Monday to Saturday. Suite 36, Beacon Face and Dermatology,
Phone: 00353 1 213 6220
Beacon Hall Beacon Court,
Fax: 00353 1 297 30 21
Sandyford,
Email: info@bfd.ie
Dublin 18.
www.beaconfaceanddermatology.ie
Consultant ENT & Facial Plastic Surgeon on the Specialist register of the Irish medical council and general medical council of UK.
IrELAnD’S PrEmIum ProvIDEr oF SErvIcED oFFIcE SPAcE AnD conFErEncE FAcILITIES Prestigious Locations in Dublin and Belfast
Castle Durrow
Business address, call answering Flexible terms, no onerous leases Adjustable office layouts with expansion capacity from 1 - 50+ persons Extensive range of meeting rooms, onsite restaurants and business support services Irish owned and family managed offering unrivalled client service DUBLIN Fitzwilliam Hall, Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2 33 Fitzwilliam Square, Dublin 2 +353 1 669 4700 BELFAST Arthur House, Arthur Street, Belfast BT1 4GB +44 (0)28 9044 7100
www.glandore.ie
Located in the Irish midlands yet only about an hour from Dublin and Cork the wonderfully restored 300 year old Castle Durrow, home to the Lord Ashbrooks since 1716 and now to Peter & Shelly Stokes and their many guests. Open all year round in the village of Durrow, you will enjoy a visit to see the splendour and luxury of the Palladian style architecture on the River Erkina, the formal gardens, the kitchen walled garden and parkland estate, complete with many river and forrest walks. Enjoy the best of fresh Irish farm produce in our elegant dining rooms overlooking the south lawns. Go for a pint and listen to trad music in the village. Visit Kilkenny and the Rock of Cashel nearby. Call in to Castle Durrow and see for yourself.
Website: www.castledurrow.com Email: info@castledurrow.com www.facebook.com/castledurrow Tel 00353 57 8736555
Un peu de France sur Leeson Street Bridge! A Beautiful French Brasserie with an Irish welcome! Located in the hear t of cultural Dublin, Brasser ie le Pont combines comfor t, style and mouth water ing cuisine with a vibrant atmosphere and war m and attentive ser vice. OFFERING n n n
wine bar outdoor heated terrace stunning Georgian private dining rooms (Capacity 70 people)
n n
live jazz music ideal venue for intimate dinners, corporate entertainment, product launches, weddings or anniversaries
Brasserie Le Pont, 25 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6694600 | Email: info@brasserielepont.ie Web: www.brasserielepont.ie
The Oldest Irish Pub in Lisbon ◊
Open everyday 11 - 2 am R. dos Remolares nº8/10 1200-371 Lisboa www.irishpub.com.pt T: 213421899
Live Music ◊
Sports on Big Screen ◊
Food all Day
Best Guinness in Town
RouteMaps EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Helsinki Stockholm
Aberdeen Edinburgh
Glasgow
Vilnius
Isle of Man Blackpool Manchester
DUBLIN
Hamburg
London
Birmingham
Kerry
Copenhagen
HEATHROW
Cardiff
Southend London
Bristol Bournemouth
GATWICK
Paris
Rennes
Warsaw
Dusseldorf
Brussels
Jersey
Berlin
Amsterdam
Frankfurt
Stuttgart
Prague
Munich
Vienna
Zurich Geneva Lyon
Bordeaux Bilbao
Santiago de Compostela
Toulouse Perpignan Madrid
Faro
LINATE
Milan
Marseille MALPENSA Nice
Budapest
Venice Verona Bologna
Bucharest Dubrovnik
Bourgas
Rome
Barcelona
Ibiza
Lisbon
Milan
Krakow
Naples
Palma
Izmir
Alicante
Catania
Malaga
Athens
Lanzarote Tenerife
Fuerteventura Gran Canaria
To & From Dublin Austria Vienna
Czech Republic Prague
Toulouse ■ Rennes
Ireland ■ Kerry
Belgium Brussels
Denmark Copenhagen
Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart
Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona (new route)
Bulgaria Bourgas Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife Croatia Dubrovnik
(commencing 28th October)
Finland Helsinki France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan
Greece Athens Hungary Budapest
Lithuania Vilnius The Netherlands Amsterdam
Poland Krakow Warsaw
Palma Santiago de Compostela
London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester
Portugal Faro Lisbon
Sweden Stockholm (new route)
■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man Southend
Romania Bucharest Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga
Switzerland Geneva Zurich Turkey Izmir United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh London (Gatwick)
■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com
SEPTEMBER 2012
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INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Knock
BELFAST
SHANNON
Dublin WATERFORD
Manchester
Birmingham Amsterdam Luton Bristol Southend London Brussels Heathrow LONDON GATWICK
CORK
Jersey
Paris
Rennes
Munich
Nice
Barcelona
Rome
Palma Lisbon Faro
Alicante Malaga
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Las Palmas
To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon, Waterford & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Canary Islands Lanzarote Las Palmas Tenerife
FROM CORK
FROM GATWICK
Belgium Brussels (new route)
Italy Rome
Portugal Faro
Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas
Portugal Faro Lisbon
Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga
France Nice Paris ■ Rennes
Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma
United Kingdom London Heathrow
Germany Munich
The Netherlands Amsterdam
United Kingdom London Gatwick London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester
Ireland Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)
FROM SHANNON France ■ Rennes United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Manchester
FROM WATERFORD ■ United Kingdom Luton Manchester Southend FROM KNOCK ■ United Kingdom Birmingham London Gatwick
■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
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USA ROUTE NETWORK
Chicago
Boston New York Washington
Shannon
Dublin
Orlando
Madrid
To & From Dublin, Shannon & Madrid FROM DUBLIN
FROM SHANNON
FROM MADRID
USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando
USA Boston New York
USA Washington DC
(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)
Chicago Orlando
SEPTEMBER 2012
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INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA Edmonton
Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR
Minneapolis
Salt Lake City
Sacramento San Francisco San Jose
Kansas City Denver
Oakland
Nashville
Long Beach
Los Angeles San Diego
Phoenix
Houston
Columbus WASHINGTON DULLES
Lexington
Portland ME BOSTON
Nantucket NEW YORK
Baltimore Washington NATIONAL
Richmond Raleigh - Durham
Charlotte
Dallas (Fort Worth) Austin
Syracuse Rochester
Pittsburgh Burlington
Cleveland
Indianapolis Cincinnati Saint Louis Louisville
Las Vegas
Burbank
Detroit
CHICAGO
Omaha
Toronto Buffalo
Atlanta
New Orleans
Jacksonville Orlando
Tampa Fort Myers
West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami
Aguadilla
San Juan Ponce
FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO New destinations with Aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United Airlines and Aer Arann Getting to the US from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. Now US, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental US destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to fly to the United States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of United States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at
Terminal 2, Dublin airport. This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of US bound flights to clear US immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the US without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination. ■ NEW YORK Connecting with JetBlue at JFK: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, simply hop on the Air Train to JetBlue’s Terminal 5 for your domestic connection. Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. ■ BOSTON Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan International Airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.
■ CHICAGO Connecting with United Airlines at O’Hare Chicago International Airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your UA domestic departure point. Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin.
■ DUBLIN Connecting with Aer Lingus Regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin Airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final US destination.
All routes correct at time of going to press
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Helsinki Stockholm
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Isle of Man Hamburg
Manchester
Dublin Birmingham
Shannon Kerry
London
Southend
Cardiff Bristol
Berlin
Amsterdam
HEATHROW
Warsaw
Dusseldorf Brussels
London
GATWICK
Krakow
Frankfurt Paris Vienna
Munich
Geneva Milan
Venice
LINATE
Dubrovnik
Alicante
Faro
Alicante Amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dubrovnik Dusseldorf Edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg Helsinki Krakow Lisbon London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Munich Palma Paris Rome Stockholm
Malaga
Venice Vienna Warsaw ■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus Regional
Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend Kerry
■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus London (Heathrow) ■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus Regional
Naples
Palma
Lisbon
■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus
Rome
Barcelona
Madrid
Manchester Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh
■ VIA NEW YORK with JetBlue
Aguadilla Austin Baltimore Buffalo Burbank Burlington Charlotte Chicago Denver Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Ponce Portland ME Portland OR Raleigh-Durham
Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Seattle Syracuse Tampa West Palm Beach
■ VIA BOSTON with JetBlue
Baltimore Buffalo Chicago Dallas Fort Worth Denver Ford Lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket New Orleans Oakland
Orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Richmond Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Seattle Tampa Washington (Dulles) Washington (National) West Palm Beach
■ VIA CHICAGO with United to USA
Atlanta Austin Charlotte Cincinnati Chicago Cleveland Columbus Dallas (Fort Worth) Denver Detroit Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville Kansas City Las Vegas Lexington Los Angeles Louisville Miami Minneapolis Nantucket Nashville New Orleans Omaha Phoenix Pittsburgh
Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose Seattle St Louis Tampa
■ VIA CHICAGO with United to Canada
Calgary Edmonton Salt Lake City Toronto Vancouver Winnipeg
■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann SEPTEMBER 2012
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FlightConnections
CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT
FLIGHTS ARRIVING AT TERMINAL 2 FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s
FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s
To Gates 100s 300s
Immigration
Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk
Immigration
Security Check
Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426
Terminal 2 Arrivals
If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.
If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.
If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.
PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport
Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:
PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE FRONT OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:
You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination
*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft
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London is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance
R A I LT O U R S IRELAND
First Class!
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American Restaurant & Bar
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A FREE APPETISER for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass
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EĂťË Ä‘ ~Č&#x;Τđ @ČŠÎŹÄ‘ bɊ͟ƕˢˢˢ
Terms and conditions apply
BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie
Book Today - Travel Tomorrow
• Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty • Waterford & Kilkenny • Cork & Blarney Castle • The Giant's Causeway • The Ring of Kerry • The Aran Islands • Connemara & Galway Bay • Titanic Rail Trails ONE DAY TOURS TO Blarney Castle NINE DAY TOURS FROM and Gardens DUBLIN Cliffs of Moher
Car Free - Care Free
www.railtoursireland.com TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045 e-mail: info@railtoursireland.com in association with (Irish Rail)
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INFLIGHT SKY SHOPPING
Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf Eau de Toilette - 50ml Spicebomb is the new masculine fragrance from Viktor & Rolf. Electrifying, captivating and fearless. He doesn’t just explode – he goes boom. Spicebomb offers a highly addictive explosion of spices, tamed by an invigorating freshness. This new fragrance is the weapon of mass seduction!
hope in a jar
60ml by philosophy A unique soufflé texture originally created for the medical profession and recommended by plastic surgeons and dermatologists. It will improve the look of multiple skincare concerns including fine lines, rough texture and dehydration. A drink of water for your skin.
Aer Lingus Fun Plane with FREE key-ring Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and flashing lights. It comes complete with batteries for hours of fun. Also included is a FREE gift of a miniature plane key-ring.
Miss Dior Eau Fraîche Eau de Toilette - 50ml Enjoy the elegant chypre fragrance of Miss Dior in this new fresh and luminous version with its blend of bergamot and gardenia against base notes of patchouli.
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Naked2 by Urban Decay A taupe-centric palette of twelve neutral shadows (five brand new) in shades ranging from pale to deep, matt to sparkly. More beige in overall tone than their first Naked palette, this collection still delivers subtle, neutral looks, smoky dramatic eyes and everything in between.
Shamballa Bracelet with Crystals and Natural Stones by Aeon This high-quality Aeon unisex crystal and natural stone beaded bracelet is part of a growing trend in jewellery that incorporates the healing properties of natural stones into fashion jewellery design. The crystals have always been a renowned symbol of peace, tranquillity and happiness. The fully adjustable 18cm to 23cm bracelet comes presented in an Aeon organza pouch.
Scents of Ireland Luxury Candles by Tipperary Crystal
These luxury scented candles are made in Ireland using luxury fragrances that evoke memories of Ireland. This charming gift box contains two wonderfully natural scented candles. The Mourne Memories candle has a fresh, clean mountain air scent while the Sligo Shores candle will bring back memories of the wild Atlantic shore to your mind. Also contains two picture postcards.
Sky Shopping Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items at reduced prices onboard during September.
Storm Husky Puppy Storm is a super-soft Husky that will always be ready for a cuddle! A beautiful puppy that will bring a smile to his new owner.
Skagen Black Leather Strap Men’s Watch Genuine style. This men’s watch with a black leather strap connects to a brushed stainless steel case. The shiny black dial features twelve chrome and white luminous numbered indicators, a 24-hour dial and date function.
Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices
Skagen Silver Mesh Strap Women’s Watch Stainless steel appeal. Signature Skagen silver mesh bands connect to a slim stainless steel IP gold case with gold border. The vertically brushed chrome dial features twelve indicators made with CRYSTALLIZED™ Swarovski elements.
SEPTEMBER 2012
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TRIP OF A LIFETIME
On a crusade
Adventurer Tim Severin recalls the unruly carthorse that made retracing the route of the First Crusade so memorable.
R
iding a carthorse from Belgium to Jerusalem requires eight months in the saddle. Before the 5,600-kilometre trip, a West Cork neighbour observed wryly that I would come back so bow-legged that I “would not be able to stop a pig in a passage”. The purpose of the ride was to retrace the route of the First Crusade that set out in 1096 to re-capture the Holy Sepulchre from the Muslims. Its leader was Duke Godfrey of Bouillon, a direct descendant of Charlemagne. So my own journey began at his castle, Chateau Bouillon in Belgium, deep in the Ardennes Forest. For historical authenticity I decided to ride a local and ancient breed of horse, an Ardennes Heavy Horse. These massive creatures are still used in preference to tractors for pulling logs out of the forest. In Duke Godfrey’s day they provided the battle chargers for his knights. In my ignorance I imagined
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Duke Godfrey’s entourage riding out from Chateau Bouillon on their heavyweight warhorses. I was wrong. They would have travelled on lighter, more comfortable horses and switched to their ponderous war chargers when ready to do battle. Riding “Carty”, as my mount was called, was a spine-shattering experience. It was like sitting astride a moving billiard table that slams its eight-inch-diameter hooves into the ground with every step. Nor was Carty’s gait his only drawback. He was fiendishly obstreperous, cunning, obstinate and so strong as to be impossible to control. One night in Austria, looking for a midnight feed, he simply pushed his way out of a stable, carrying away the iron door surround draped like a picture frame around his massive shoulders. Fortunately Sarah, my travelling companion and another West Cork neighbour, knew a great deal
Top, a statue of the leader of the First Crusade, Duke Godfrey of Bouillon, at his Chateau in Belgium — the place that explorer Tim Severin chose to begin his long journey on horseback to Jerusalem. Above, Tim at work.
more about horses than I did. On her advice we purchased an extra riding horse in Hungary – Sarah was already riding a tireless Irish mare from a trekking stable in Kerry – and we converted Carty to packcarrying duties. Carty plodded his troublesome way as far as central Turkey. Due to his thick Ardennes coat he began to suffer in the heat. So, on Sarah’s advice, we sent him back to Europe at the end of the first season’s ride. The following spring we rode on, replacing him with a local pack pony, less than half his bulk. In the footsteps of the First Crusaders we traced the ancient Roman road across the high plateau of Anatolia. It was a land of huge horizons, grazing flocks fl ocks and isolated mud-walled villages. The The people, devout Muslims, refused payment for providing shelter and food. In their eyes we were pilgrims on our way to the Holy City and deserving of charitable hospitality. It was high summer when we entered Syria and turned south, often going on foot in the blistering heat to spare the tired horses. Crossing the Jordan River was an achievement in itself. Fortunately the chief of the Israeli Police Service was himself a horse enthusiast. Thanks to his good offices we were permitted to ride across the Allenby Bridge and the 43ºF of the Dead Sea flatlands. Then it was past Bedouin encampments and army anti-tank trenches to our final goal, Jerusalem itself. We passed through Herod’s Gate in the ancient city wall and tethered our horses at the entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Duke Godfrey’s prize. Twenty-five years later, writing a novel set in the days of Charlemagne, the memory of that journey is still vivid. When the leading character of my tale sets out on a long journey by horseback, I know exactly how it feels. Saxon: The Book of Dreams (Pan Macmillan, £12.99) is out now.