Cara Magazine September 2013
September 2013
Actress Saoirse Ronan
Customer magazine of the year
Irish farmers Adventure racing in Ireland Stockholm
Green shoots The new breed of Irish farmer
San Francisco South Downs
Running wild
On the trail of Irish adventure races
5 Best Spas
West Coast wonder
Manchester
Filmmaker John Butler revisits San Francisco
Mamma Mia!
Toronto UNICEF
All grown up
Saoirse Ronan takes the lead
Stockholm’s Abba moment
Free-wheeling holidays Cycle the South Downs
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Contents
34
September 2013
The good life – farmer Pat Lalor
46
Spirit of adventure
72
West coast cool
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Features
Regulars
04 ARRIVALS We meet passengers fresh off the plane at Dublin’s T2
28 RISE OF THE RONAN EMPIRE Actor Saoirse Ronan holds court with Tony Clayton-Lea
104 48 HOURS IN MANCHESTER Lucy White is mad for it
07 CHECK IN Ideas on where to stay, eat and visit this September 18 WHAT’S IN MY SUITCASE Jetsetter Jemma Cassidy’s travel essentials 22 SMART TRAVELLER Gaëlle Humbert on Budapest, plus business lunching in Barcelona 24 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican marvels at The Modern Explorers, and shortlists new Irish debuts 20 ON MY TRAVELS Into the wild with cameraman Doug Allan 26 SHOW TIME Daragh Reddin’s Dublin fringe and theatre festival edits
34 BACK TO THE LAND The new radicals of Irish farming by Emily Hourican 46 WACKY RACES Ben Webb survives adventure racing in Connemara 60 TAKE A CHANCE ON STOCKHOLM Brian Finnegan in ABBA heaven 72 BAY DREAMS San Francisco casts a spell on John Butler 84 UPS AND DOWNS Sophie “Pedal Power” Davies saddles up in the South Downs 98 5 BEST SPAS Pampering paradises by Lucy White
107 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO TORONTO Linn Vizard’s top tip-offs 111 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT The latest films, TV, music and flight information 136 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Donncha O’Callaghan visits Lebanon with UNICEF
18
What’s In My Suitcase
Contributors editorial editor Frances Power deputy editor Lucy White editorial assistant Niamh Wade Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Liz Dwyer Group editorial director Laura George art art director Clare Meredith adVertiSinG Commercial director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie advertising Manager Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie
Sophie Davies is a freelance journalist
who lives and works in rural West Sussex, writing about gardening and all things outdoor-related from her garden shed. She cycled the South Downs Way for Cara this summer, see page 84, and has become somewhat obsessed with mountain biking ever since. “I see a hill now and I want to cycle up it,” she says. Sophie especially loved the literary aspects of the trip – lingering in Much Ado Books in Alfriston and stopping off to admire the wonderful paintings at Charleston Farmhouse. This, and the sheer achievement of reaching the finishing post at the end.
Kevin Waldron is an Irish children’s book writer and illustrator. Born in Dublin he now lives in New York. His latest book is called Pandamonium at Peek Zoo (2013), by Templar Publishing. For Cara, he created a quirky map to run with a feature on Aer Lingus’ new destination, San Francisco, see page 72. “I’m flying to San Francisco in two weeks to visit a friend, so this map came up at the perfect time. I have a dreadful sense of direction, drawing maps is the only way for me to commit it to memory. I’m always scribbling directions and sticking them in my pocket.”
Publisher Richard Power adMiniStration head of Pr & Promotions Linda McEvitt, +353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie events Manager Roisin Finnegan Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson Board oF direCtorS Managing director Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Robert Power directors Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor, Patrick Dillon-Malone, Laura George PrintinG Boylan Print Group oriGination Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.
Brian Finnegan is a Dublin-based author
and magazine editor, who has translated the obsessive love he had for ABBA during his youth into his second novel, Knowing Me Knowing You. “The most pleasurable parts of my research for the book were my trips to Stockholm,” he says. “I immersed myself in all aspects of the city, and I instantly fell in love with its contradictions. It’s a place that’s at once as clinically functional as an IKEA flatpack kitchen, and as warm and homely as a cinnamon bun and coffee.” He visits Stockholm for Cara on page 60.
Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie
September 2013
Customer magazine of the year
Green shoots The new breed of Irish farmer
IMAGE Publications Ltd –
PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 to adVertiSe PLEASE CALL NOËLLE O’REILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE
Running wild
On the trail of Irish adventure races
West Coast wonder
Filmmaker John Butler revisits San Francisco
Mamma Mia!
All grown up SaoirSe ronan takeS the lead
Stockholm’s ABBA moment
Free-wheeling holidays
Cycle the South Downs
complimentary copy
on the CoVer
Actor Saoirse Ronan photographed by Fabrizio Maltese.
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who? Wendy Read Flying in From London Heathrow here For ... Wendy has popped across the water to enjoy some time visiting family in Ireland.
who? From left, Freya and Elise Reilly Flying in From Faro here For ... These smiley sisters have just had twelve days of fun in Portugal, but are excited to be home for their new cousin’s christening.
who? Julius Cervo and Savannah Duggan Flying in From Glasgow here For ... This Canadian duo are hoping to bump into Colin Farrell while holidaying around Ireland!
Arrivals
The sun shone on Dublin’s T2 this summer, where Cara magazine welcomed Aer Lingus passengers on their holidays and ahead of family gatherings. who? From left, Rory Draper and Stephen Donovan Flying in From Berlin here For ... The boys in green live in Madrid and are home for the first time in six months. They roamed around Berlin for two weeks but can’t wait to see friends and family.
WORDS By NIaMH WaDE/PHOTOGRaPHS By aNTHONy WOODS
who From left, Zara Rocks and Rebecca Seed Flying From Zurich here For ... Rebecca is staying with Zara’s family in Cork for a whole week. This lucky young lady was met by her pal who travelled up especially to help Rebecca begin her Irish adventure.
who? Kevin Keane Flying in From Geneva here For ... This happy chap is back home after a few days in France. Kevin spent his time cheering on his friend who was cycling in the Tour de France.
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september 2013
who? Olivia and Ruairi Moriarty Flying in From Brussels here For ... Olivia and Ruairi are home after holidaying in Belgium. Ruairi is very pleased to come back to sunshine.
who? From left, Tara Murphy, Gianna Eigenmann and Lucy Murphy Flying in From Zurich here For ... Gianna is thrilled to be in Ireland on an exchange programme for three weeks. The Murphy family are looking forward to showing Gianna the picks of Ireland and Dublin, including the Phoenix Park.
Clodagh’s Kitchen
Orla Kiely
Appleby
Whatever’s next, since 1843.
Coach
This iconic building on Dublin’s Henry Street is Ireland’s largest and longest established department store. Arnotts is home to the world’s best in beauty, fashion for men and women, homewares, all the latest in technology and Ireland’s largest and loveliest shoe department, The Shoe Garden. There are several places to eat, including Clodagh’s Kitchen, in which everything is homemade by celebrity chef Clodagh McKenna. In other words, Arnotts is more than just shopping. It is an experience.
Shop online www.arnotts.ie Arnotts, 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1 / 01 805 0400
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Follow us on Twitter! ‘@arnottsdublin’
Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie c
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Find out what’s on, where and when in September
The green and the good
Kilkenny may be best known for its annual comedy festival, however, this month it’s a magnet for hikers, bikers and walkers, gourmands, artisans, foragers and all-round inquisitive types. Trail Kilkenny is a September-long festival designed to prevent folk from premature hibernation; gently coaxing us out on to craft, heritage, nature and food trails, moonlit strolls and dog walks, hill hikes – even Canadian canoeing. Meanwhile, Mount Juliet golf and spa resort invites the green-fingered to meet horticultural and food experts, gillie Eddie Collins, executive chef Cormac Rowe and gardener Paddy Daly, above, in its verdant walled garden. September 1-29; trailkilkenny.ie
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STay
4 tree house hotels
Branch out before the weather turns, at one of these leafy lodges …
Chewton Glen Hotel & Spa
New Milton, New Forest, Hampshire, England The very height of luxury, Chewton Glen’s twelve deluxe, stilted suites have the most amazing panoramic forest views. Glass-framed decks mean you can even enjoy the great outdoors from your double Villeroy and Boch bathtub, while the main house and spa are just a golf buggy’s drive away. Bliss. Suites from £820 B&B and dinner. +44 1425 282212; chewtonglen.com
Teapot Lane
Tawley, Co Leitrim, Ireland Teapot Lane was Ireland’s first glamping destination, introducing yurt accommodation to the tentpegphobic public. It has since added a cute vintage caravan, and in May, branched out with a tree house – a plush pad three metres above ground level for two to three guests, resplendent with a pot belly stove for those autumnal nights, a kitchen area – and even a wine fridge. B&B from €150. glampingireland.ie
La Cabane en l’Air
France, nationwide Environmentally-conscious families with a sense of adventure will love La Cabane en l’Air, a network of some 200, all-yearround tree house campsites all across France. With heights ranging from four metres to 22, there’s a cabin for everyone – although, in the spirit of sustainable tourism, many lack electricity. Shower blocks are the name of the game. B&B from €115 for two. lacabaneenlair.com
Disney’s Saratoga Springs Resort & Spa
1960 Broadway, Lake Buena Vista, Florida, US Channel the Swiss Family Robinson at one of these 60 three-bedroomed tree house villas. Positioned about three metres above ground, each ample suite (they can fit up to nine guests) has a kitchen, private decking and even its own driveway. Villas from $797. disneyworld.disney.go.com/ resorts
dIary
Cardiac arrest
“When we marry the sexiness of salsa to the thunder of Irish dance, the lyricism of tango to the yearning of sean-nós, what a night of storytelling we shall have,” ponders Irish author Joseph O’Connor, who wrote the narrative and lyrics to Heartbeat of Home, the latest from the Riverdance stable. From September 25 to October 12 at Dublin’s Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, a 28-strong cast, a ten-piece band and 3D technology combine for a world premiere of music by Brian Byrne and choreography by David Bolger. heartbeatofhome.com
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september 2013
Branching out
US brand Proof Eyewear has crossed the Atlantic, its lacewood, ebony and mahogany glasses made from sustainably sourced, 100 per cent biodegradable materials. Prices from £85. iwantproof.co.uk MUSIC
She’s in fashion
This September 19-22, Irish style maven Angela Scanlon is hosting main stage catwalk shows at London Fashion Weekend. “I’m very excited,” she admits, of a vast programme that also includes pop-up shops and beauty sideshows. “The Vodafone Live Lounge is always fun so I’ll be legging it there to catch some talks. I’ll also be sneaking off to buy some JW Anderson clothes, Linda Farrow shades, maybe some Dominic Jones jewellery ...” Now London based, does she ever miss Ireland? “I miss the craic, and the bacon. But not the public transport!” she laughs. londonfashionweekend. co.uk / @angelascanlon
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CULTURE
Andy Warhol is a household name, but Marisol Escobar? Well known, certainly, around New York during the swinging sixties, the Venezuelan artist has largely been overshadowed by her male Pop Artist pals. But MCA: DNA Warhol & Marisol at Chicago’s Museum of Contemporary Art addresses the imbalance somewhat, juxtaposing the friends’ different approaches to portraiture, and their mutual fondness of motifs and found objects. Warhol’s silk-screen paintings are shown alongside Marisol’s wooden sculptures and plaster castings from September 21 until June 15, 2014. mcachicago.org. AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO CHICAGO DAILY.
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best deck shoes ...
FOOD
What’s cooking in Vienna? This month, Dubliner Brian Patton, right, of Vienna’s Irish pub Charlie P’s, takes Eoin Higgins on a whirl through Austria’s capital.
TWO-TONE SUEDE SHOE KG Kurt Geiger, €140 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2 LEATHER SHOE €85 at Dune, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16
SUEDE SHOE €67 at Marks & Spencer
LEATHER ADMIRAL SHOE €100 at Dubarry, College Green, Dublin 2
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september 2013
“September signifies “sturmtime”, when wine bars serve the early fermenting grape juice, sturm, for just a couple of weeks to celebrate the start of the wine harvest. Wieninger in Stammersdorf (heuriger-wieninger.at) is popular with the locals, and their cold plates are also highly recommended. A must for any food lover is a visit to Vienna’s main food market, Naschmarkt. Or, stop for a bite at its Market Café, which sources ingredients from the stalls. A DJ starting at 4pm, and the best coffee in town, make this the perfect spot to while away an evening. Weather permitting, an afternoon dip in the pool based on the ship Badeschiff is highly recommended, as is its casual dining restaurant Holy Moly run by Michelinstarred chef Christian Petz
(badeschiff.at). Popular pop-ups are Love Kitchen (lovekitchen.at) and Guerilla Bakery (guerillabakery.at). The former’s an invite-only vegetarian lunch spot open on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, from which the owner hangs a tea towel outside her window to identify her location. The latter offers a modern take on a Viennese patisserie.
ChRISTINA KARAGIANNIS
ANDY WARhOL, TROY DIPTYCH, 1962. COLLECTION MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART ChICAGO, GIFT OF MRS. ROBERT B. MAYER.
Pop go the artists
Another is It’s All About The Meat Baby (meatbaby.at), based on the Danube Canal, near Schwedenplatz. The beef is imported directly from Irish butchers, FX Buckley’s, who mince three different cuts of meat combined to make burgers cooked on a coal barbecue. All cocktails are bespoke and the house draft beer is the unpasteurised Czech beer Kozel served from a 500-litre tank. Meatbaby leaves this location at the end of September but should pop up somewhere else soon …”
KildareVillage.com 7 For All Mankind • Anya Hindmarch • Brooks Brothers • Cath Kidston • Coast • Furla • Hackett • Hobbs • Hugo Boss Jack Wills • L.K.Bennett • Louise Kennedy • Jaeger • Pandora • Superdry • Thomas Pink and many more
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Culture
Plane sailing On September 15, Dublin’s skies will play host to FlightFest, a once-in-a-lifetime, two-hour flypast as part of the Gathering Ireland 2013. Organised by the Irish Aviation Authority and Dublin City Council, more than 30 civilian, military and historic aircraft – Aer Lingus among them – will follow the course of the River Liffey from Dublin Port to the Custom House, with participating aeroplanes including a B-17 Flying Fortress, a Vulcan delta wing bomber, a Strikemaster jet and a Superjumbo A380. And it’s a free event. What’s not to love? flightfest.ie
Food Fiesta Gastronomes unite: From September 9-15, Waterford City hosts its sixth annual Waterford Harvest Festival. Loosen those waistbands to enjoy barbecues, banquets, artisan beerfests, cooking demos, celebrity cook-offs, masterclasses and more. waterfordharvestfestival.ie. sport
The Munster mash
Clare or Cork – who will win the GAA Hurling All Ireland Senior Championships 2013? The deciding clash of the ash is on September 8 at Dublin’s Croke Park, the Banner Men meeting the Rebels in the first all-Munster final since 1997. On August 18, Limerick were knocked out of the championship, Clare effortlessly acing a seven point defeat, 1-22 to 0-18. But as one of the most successful hurling counties, the Corkonians are a tough nut to crack – and with both counties having bounced back superbly since being beaten in their provincial summer championship, expect white knuckles this month. Less fraught will be Galway’s Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival, a global celebration of the game from September 18-21. gaa.ie / aerlingushurling.com 12 |
september 2013
Food
Aw, shucks ...
Eoin Higgins dives into the Galway Oyster Festival.
What’s it all about? It’s the annual love-in for the opulent Irish oyster. Gregarious Galwegians, bivalve blow-ins, and mollusc maniacs converge on Galway city for the world’s longest running oyster festival. The shucking shindig heralds the Irish oyster eating season: September to April, or, any month with an “r” in it. What to expect? The festival opens in Galway Harbour with a marquee party that includes food tastings from the city’s top restaurants; the national oyster shucking competition; and jiving to The Papazitas, the festival’s eight-piece band. Highlights? Aside from the glitzy opening ceremony, where the newly-crowned Oyster Pearl presents the season’s first oyster to Galway’s mayor – a tradition since 1954 – the Oyster Masquerade street party is also a must-do. The night starts with an oyster
reception and traditional music, before parading to the next stop for a lush seafood banquet, then on to a third venue for desserts and entertainment till the small hours. Another must-see, on day two, is the World Oyster Opening Championship, which features international contestants competing for the world title. the details ... The Galway Oyster Festival runs from September 27-29. galwayoysterfest.com.
EUROPEAN club rugby finals weekend
Cardiff Arms Park Friday, May 23th K.O. 20:00
Millennium Stadium Saturday, May 24th K.O. 17:00
General Public -Tickets on Sale September 16th To avail of an exclusive presale package register with ercrugby.com before September 6th For more ticket information visit
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DiaRy
When size is everything
Expecting the würst
Tapas and mezze are so last season. Eoin Higgins rounds up the three best small-plate restaurants, the latest culinary trend.
A tattooed and bearded chef enfant terrible, Jesse Schenker, above, sharpened his knives at Gordon Ramsay’s The London, in New York City, before setting up his own ampedup small-plate offering in the West Village. Recette (328 West 12th Street, Greenwich Village, +1 212 414 3000; recettenyc.com) is an atmospheric joint where young profs and old pros chow down and chat up with NYC verve.
So what happens when Michelin stars meet Grammys? Cleaver East (East Essex Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, 01 531 3500; cleavereast.ie), the latest offering from Michelin starspangled duo, Oliver Dunne and Rory Carville, who have set up shop at The Clarence Hotel in Dublin city. The room is dark, yet somehow airy, with a strong industrial feel, the menu holds interest, the price is right, and the talent is apparent.
The groovy folks behind the Dairy (15 The Pavement, Clapham Old Town, London, +44 207 622 4165; the-dairy.co.uk) work alongside the seasons, sourcing the finest produce, as well as growing a selection of ingredients in their urban garden. How very contemporary ... Such an ethos is buttressed with a link to tradition that produces exquisitely balanced small-plate masterpieces.
Ja – it’s Lederhosen and Dirndl time. For despite the name, Munich’s Oktoberfest kicks off this September 21, marking 16 days of wheat beer, würst, fairgrounds and oompah (oktoberfest.de). Attracting more than six million people every year, Oktoberfest is the world’s largest fair. It’s also one of Bavaria’s biggest exports, with eponymous offshoots popping up across the globe this month, including in Ireland: George’s Dock in Dublin, from September 19 to October 6 (oktoberfest-dublin.de), and Cork’s Oktoberfest Beag at the Old Beamish and Crawford Brewery September 5-14 (oktoberfest beag.ie). aER LiNGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO MUNiCH DAILY, AND FROM CORK ON TUE, THU AND SAT.
chitecture S The third Lisbon Ar SPATIAL AWARENES ultifaceted September 12, its m on s en op le na ien Tr perimental Close, Closer. Cue ex programme entitled ppening ances and debates ha rm rfo pe , ns tio bi hi ex elisboa.com December 15. trienald across the city until
BEaUTy
Long-haul skin savers By Liz Dwyer. Keep skin dewy fresh with ELiZaBETH aRDEN EiGHT HoUR CREaM, which works a treat on dry skin, lips and hands, €26. Twenty minutes before touchdown, pop BLiSS TRiPLE oXyGEN ENERGiZiNG EyE MaSK pads under eyes, and the oxygen and cucumber mix will have you looking like you’ve had eight-hour’s rest, €43.
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DiaRy Clever salve STEaMCREaM uses a distillation process to ensure its cocktail of hydrating and soothing oils delivers deep down into the skin, €15. Put a few drops of aRoMaTHERaPy aSSoCiaTES PERfECT PaRTNERS “Deep Relax” on to your pillow or temples to help you wind down and follow with “Revive Morning” when you need to disembark, €16.50.
Homegrown talent at Brown Thomas
Past and present collide at Dublin department store Brown Thomas this month, with archival pieces by Ireland’s first couturier, Sybil Connolly (1921-1998), displayed alongside items made by the nation’s new generation for an exhibition entitled CREATE. In her heyday, Connolly dressed Jackie Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor. Now, it’s the likes of participating jeweller Merle O’Grady, who embellish the stars – Beyoncé and Kylie have worn her designs, while milliner Martha Lynn trained under Philip Treacy, and Emma Manley (her work pictured right) at Alexander McQueen. More fledgling talent includes knitwear ace Honor Fitzsimons. CREATE runs instore until September 24. brownthomas.com
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September 2013
Wish you were here Carey left, is a fullNicola Carey, time teacher in Holywood, Co Down. She’s been taking photographs as a hobby for nearly two years, with a keen interest in travel, street and landscape photography (see her edit at flickr. com/photos/necarey). Of this stunning photograph taken in Italy’s Burano, an island on the Venetian Lagoon: “My family and I flew to Venice from Dublin at the start of July and stayed in the nearby resort of Lido Di Jeslo. Our final stop was the beautiful island of Burano, famous for its lacework and brightly coloured houses. I wanted to capture the colourful houses and their reflections in the water, which was quite tricky to compose without a tripod and at the end of a very tiring and hot day. But I managed to get this shot before having to quickly run back to the boat!”
Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the October/ November issue. The technicals Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot. The editor’s decision is final.
september 2013
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BY MA PHoTog rAPH
rk SCoT T
teardrop earringS €58 at Loulerie, 14b Chatham Street, Dublin 2
MaSCara YSL, €32.50 at Brown Thomas
Silk dreSS Zero+MariaCornejo, €820 at net-a-porter.com
headphoneS Sennheiser, €89.99 at harveynorman.ie
t-Shirt T by Alexander Wang, €79 at net-a-porter.com
printed SCarf kDk, €220 at kdk.ie
What’s in my
suitcase
Jemma Cassidy is a hip chick, in so many ways – she runs hiphip.ie, an Irish event styling company while working as a buyer for cool fashion and lifestyle company URBN (think Free People and Anthropologie) in Philadelphia. As Jemma jets off to Mexico on holidays via Tokyo and New York, Sive O’Brien checks her bag.
tweezerS Tweezerman, €14.95 at millies.ie
Bikini Mara Hoffman, €234 at asos.com
SunglaSSeS karen Walker, €210 at matchesfashions.com CleanSer Eve Lom, €68 at Harvey Nichols, Dundrum Town Centre, Dundrum, Dublin 16
deniM JeanS €52 at Topshop, 6/7 St Stephen’s green, Dublin 2
SuitCaSe Brics, €270 at Arnotts, 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1
eau de parfuMe Stella by Stella McCartney, €69 at Boots pharmacies nationwide
Body MoiSturiSer kiehl’s Crème de Corps, €54.50 at kiehl’s, 35 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2 SandalS Swedish Hasbeens, €181 at swedishhasbeens.com
lipStiCk MAC Lady Danger, €19 at Brown Thomas
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September 2013
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On my travels
Wildlife and documentary cameraman Doug Allan shares his polar pursuits with Sive O’Brien.
Over the past 35 years, Doug Allan has been involved in 60 films for the BBC, Discovery Channel and National Geographic (The Blue Planet, Planet Earth and Human Planet); has won seven Emmys; four BAFTAs, and many other awards. This month he tours his live show Doug Allan – A Life Behind the Lens across Ireland from September 19 to October 4, and the UK from October 11-28, for more details, visit dougallan.com, or read about his adventures in the book Freeze Frame (Tartan Dragon). t all began with … diving, which led to a marine biology degree, which took me to the Antarctic in 1976. Photography was a big thing at the research station; it was the best way to show people the wonders of the place. A film crew briefly visited and I helped the cameraman, which made me realise this was something that encompassed all my interests. On my next contract south, I took a film camera and one thing led to another ... The best trip … was when we captured killer whales watching the seals off the ice floes for Frozen Planet – we knew it happened but exactly where and when were big unknowns. I was with Scottish cameraman Doug Anderson, accompanied
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by two of the best killer whale biologists in the world, on a boat skippered by men I’ve known for 20 years – it doesn’t get more special than that. The most influential place in my life … has been Antarctica. Over an eleven-year period, I spent five-and-a-half years there – diving, working with scientists, climbing and isolated for many months over the winters. I’ve been back every year since; it still holds the allure. The most dangerous situation … was when I was grabbed by a walrus in the water – that was hairy. If he’d held on when I hit him rather than let go, I wouldn’t be here. Also, diving under ice; being near polar bears; edging on crampons across steep snow; filming at minus 40 degrees – they’re all potentially dangerous
but the exciting satisfaction lies in being able to walk to the edge and bring back the shots. Most memorable filming … was the time spent in the water with big marine mammals like the humpback whales in Tonga, or Weddell seals under the ice in the Antarctic. Being eye-to-eye with them in their environments, creating a genuine relationship with them, is true magic. The polar bear … is the most charismatic animal I’ve ever filmed; the greatest predator in the most challenging habitat on earth – the frozen sea ice. The most interesting place I’ve stayed … is a hotel built entirely of blocks of salt on the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. Not exactly five star! My ultimate escape … is the west coast of Ireland, where
3 best wildlife tours
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The Irish need not travel to Alaska to spot whales – how about West Cork? As commander of Whale Watching Cork, zoologist Nic Slocum takes passengers out on his purpose-built mammalchasing vessel in search of minke sharks, bottlenose dolphins, left, and fin whales. whalewatchwestcork.com
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Rural Spain teems with diverse flora and fauna, and naturalist Julian Sykes knows exactly where to find them. As well as allyear-round nature trails, this month the Yorkshireman is offering bespoke Andalucían Mammals and Birds tours from September 28 to October 12. juliansykeswildlife.com
I’ve a cottage on the Renvyle peninsula. One day I’ll live there for longer than just a couple of weeks at a time. My greatest adventure … was summiting Shishapangma mountain in China at 8014 metres – the 14th highest mountain in the world. It was the hardest thing I’ve ever done. And that was for pleasure! Time away is never wasted … even when the animal I seek is ultra elusive. I spent eleven weeks in Ladakh, India, for only an hour in the company of a snow leopard, and for 50 of those 60 minutes, she was asleep. Places on my wish list … the New Caledonia islands in the Pacific Ocean; the summit of Aconcagua in the Andes, and a deep sea visit, around 4,000 metres below water.
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Oyster and salt farms, wineries, navigating the crystalline waters of Soline Bay, the UNESCOprotected Durmitor National Park, and the deepest gorges … there’s much to see and do on Natural Habitat Expeditions’ Sea Kayaking and Hiking tours in Croatia and Dubrovnik. nathab.com
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Smart Traveller|
Networking in Budapest, or business lunching in Barcelona? Lisa Hughes scouts the hotspots.
LittLe BLack Book BudAPeST Gaëlle Humbert, managing director of Renault Finance, travels for work frequently and her favourite city for doing business is Budapest. “Budapest is great for business travel because… it’s compact and so easy to get around, but has all the advantages of a capital city. It offers good value for money, and the hotels’ great business rates make it an ideal destination for conferences and meetings. Best place for business meetings … Historic locations, such as the Corinthia Hotel (Erzsébet körút 43-49, +36 1 479 4000; corinthia.com), one of the first major palaces in Europe, and the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace (Széchenyi István tér 5-6, +36 1 268 6000; fourseasons.com), located at the end of the Chain Bridge, are exquisite places to hold a meeting. Business lunch … You can eat traditional Hungarian food in a very typical Hungarian atmosphere in Paprika Vendéglo (Dózsa György Way 72, +36 20 294 7944; paprikavendeglo.hu). I also like the mix of French Provençal cuisine and native gastronomy in the Abszint Café and Restaurant (Andrássy út 34), which has a budget-friendly two-course lunch menu with a glass of wine for about €20. Best for business drinks … I like Liszt Ferenc Ter, which is a very pretty square with lots of cafés and restaurants to choose
from. Try one of Budapest’s specialities – The Kerts, vintage open-air bars. My personal favourite is Szimpla Kert (Kazinczy St 14, +36 20 261 8669; szimpla.hu). Best business hotel … In the Buda part of the city, the Hotel Gellért (Szent Gellért tér 1, +36 1 889 5500; danubiushotels. hu) and in the Pest part, The Meridien (Erzsébet tér 9-10, +36 1 429 5500; lemeridienbudapest.com) are both highly recommended. However, if I’m visiting for at least three nights I prefer to rent an apartment which offers home comforts, like free internet and your own kitchen facilities. Wi-Fi … Budapest developed very quickly with the latest technology, and you can easily find bars and cafés and of course hotels with free Wi-Fi. On your downtime … If you’re in the city around Christmas time, don’t miss the festive fairs, especially the famous one on the Place Vörösmarty. And do go iceskating on the lake of the City Park near Heroes’ Square, or, “Hosök tere”, and eat the kurtos kalacs (a type of brioche). Or if you’re in the city during spring/summer, spend some time on Margitsziget, an island in the middle of the Danube.
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business lunches in barcelona
MOMeNTS Michelin-starred chef Carme Ruscalleda and her son reinterpret Catalan favourites at this sophisticated hotspot, above. The restaurant décor is awash with honey, gold and amber hues contrasted with pristine white tables and chairs. The seasonal Mediterranean dishes are loaded with flavour to match the stylish ambience. (Passeig de Gràcia 38, +34 931 51 87 81; mandarinoriental.com) ABAC If modern Catalan cuisine in a slick, minimalist dining space is what you’re after, ABaC is your spot. Chef Jordi Cruz, the youngest in Spain to win a Michelin star, is at the helm, and it’s location in a five-star hotel ensures a five-star gourmet experience. Groups can book an intimate dining room for up to 60 diners for extra privacy. (Avinguda del Tibidabo 1, +34 93 319 6600; abacbarcelona.com) CINC SeNTITS Local and mostly organic ingredients are used to full effect to create Catalan cuisine infused with flavour at Cinc Sentits. With its central location, this restaurant is a popular choice for lunch meetings. Menu-wise, it offers competitively priced tasting options and fresh seafood. (Carrer d’Aribau 58, +34 93 323 9490; cincsentits.com) eLS PeSCAdORS Catalan for "the fishermen", Els Pescadors is traditional and unfussy in style, with long windows and wood-lined panels on walls. Dine outside on the patio, or inside the old tavern but don't let the humble decor fool you; this upmarket seafood restaurant is considered one of the best in Barcelona. (Plaça Prim 1, +34 93 225 2018, elspescadors.com)
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Shelf Life|
Bridget Hourican follows some of the world’s greatest adventures, and also discovers some new Irish debuts.
Who’s reading what? Irish author Catherine Dunne on writing and travels.
MIChAEl AShER “ON A lATER JOuRNEy IN ERITREA”/MARIANTONIETTA PERu
ON THE HOOF In The Modern Explorers by Robin Hanbury-Tenison and Robert Twigger (Thames & Hudson, £24), 39 contemporary explorers, ranging from the famous and experienced (Ranulph Fiennes, Tim Severin) to the young and yetknown, are featured exploring some of the least visited, most challenging places in the world. Sections of the book are divided into terrains – Polar, Desert, Rainforest, Mountain, Ocean, River, and, Lost Worlds, which sees Mark Norell dinosaur-hunting in Mongolia and Tahir Shah in search of King Solomon’s Mines. These men and
YOUR LATEST BOOK IS SET IN AN UNSPECIFIED PLACE. DID YOU HAVE AN ACTUAL PLACE IN MIND? The location is deliberately non-specific. Complex family situations arise everywhere – even in the most idyllic of locations. YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO WRITE? My office at home – I love it. But writing travels well – that’s one of its many joys. WHAT’S THE BEST – AND WORST – BOOK YOU’VE TAKEN ON A JOURNEY? Timing is so important with the books we read and, on that basis, I choose as the best The Stone Diaries by Carol Shields. I no longer remember the journey: but I still love the book. On the other hand, I still remember glorious Croatia – but have forgotten every word of The Da Vinci Code. women are conservationists Is that telling me something? and ethnologists at heart, YOUR BOOKS HAVE BEEN TRANSLATED if not professionally, READ ZONE INTO NUMEROUS LANGUAGES. seeking to cherish The 13th International WHO’S YOUR FAVOURITE AUTHOR and preserve, not Literary Festival Berlin IN TRANSLATION? My favourite is commercialise or (literaturfestival.com) returns always the author I have most recently alter, the places this September 4-15, its 200-odd discovered! Right now it’s Italian writer they traverse. programme including readings Dacia Maraini. They ski solo to by Irish authors John Boyne SPEAKING OF WHICH, YOU’RE the South Pole, and Anne Enright, a Graphic OFF TO ITALY TO RECEIVE THE sail the Atlantic in Novel Day, and kids BOCCACCIO PRIZE. ANY MUST-SEES? a leather boat and go events. Pisa. Certaldo Alto. Tuscany … caving in Borneo. An
excellent match of great photos with vivid text reminds us that there’s always something new under the sun.
Catherine Dunne’s latest novel, The Things We Know Now, is published in paperback by Pan Macmillan, €15.99.
Best new Irish debuts ... Malarky by Anakana Schofield (Oneworld, €13.99). In this winner of amazon.ca’s amazon.ca First Novel Award, the narrator is a Mayo farmer’s wife with a gay son in Afghanistan and an unfaithful husband. Constant shifts in time, location and voice keep this lively and unexpected. Assured, humorous and a surprising debut. 24 |
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Ghost Moth by Michèle Forbes (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, £12.99). Set in Belfast, its main character, Katherine, is a talented young opera singer in 1949 and 20 years later a housewife and mother of four. A subtle, passionate story of private grief set against public crisis – and the debut novel of short story writer Forbes.
Red Sky in Morning by Paul Lynch (Quercus, £14.99). Set in Ireland and America in the early 1800s, this follows Donegal-man, Coll Coyle, being stalked across Donegal, New York and Pennsylvania after he has murdered his landlord. There are as many film influences here as literary (Cormac McCarthy, Jim Crace).
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Star turns
Dublin becomes a performance hub this month, its annual theatre and fringe festivals offering something for everyone, reports Daragh Reddin. iven that this year’s Dublin Theatre Festival (September 26 to October 13, dublintheatrefestival. com) arrives with the decidedly puckish invitation to “come out and play”, it’s fitting that one of its signal shows is a farrago of circus skills, dance and comedy. Wunderkammer (September 25-29, Gaiety Theatre) is a mischievous blend of awe-inspiring derring-do and offbeat vaudeville, courtesy of Australia’s acrobatic troupe Circa. A sextet of suitably lithe performers will wow audiences with gasp-inducing aerial rope tricks, white-knuckle balancing acts and don’t-try-this-at-home contortion. If that sounds far too intoxicating/frivolous for your tastes, rest assured there’s plenty of chin-strokingly serious theatre taking place on terra firma. The Gare St Lazare Players have been lauded across the globe for their scrupulous Beckett’s prose; however, to celebrate the 60th anniversary of its publication, they’ll be taking on the Nobel laureate’s existentially charged tragicomedy Waiting For Godot (October 2-6, Gaiety Theatre). Two great Franco-Irish performers will also be hoping to
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make their mark as part of this year’s programme, with works they’ve adapted themselves. In the one-woman riverrun, Olwen Fouéré, in association with Rough Magic, will give voice to celebrated extracts from James Joyce’s redoubtable Finnegans Wake (October 2-6, Project Arts Centre). Elsewhere, with recourse to song and storytelling, renaissance woman Camille O’Sullivan, right, takes on Shakespeare’s narrative poem The Rape of Lucrece (October 10-12, O’Reilly Theatre) in a show that has already garnered effusive reviews during a UK run. In a programme that’s disappointingly light in terms of new Irish drama, it’s likely that The Hanging Gardens, Frank McGuinness’s latest play, and his first for the National Theatre in 14 years, should foment a considerable degree of attention (October 3-12, Abbey Theatre). Chasing at the heels of the Dublin Theatre Festival is its giddy and impetuous little sister, the Dublin Fringe (September 5-22, fringefest.com). Despite waving farewell to Absolut this year, it remains as varied and vast a programme as ever – and wouldn’t be the Fringe without at least one
Renaissance woman Camille O’Sullivan takes on Shakespeare’s Rape of Lucrece.
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CULTURE NIGHT September 20 The concept is a simple but effective one: Ireland’s arts centres, museums and historical sites leave their doors open until well into the night for one day only – and culture vultures as well as the curious can take advantage of free tours, talks and performances off the clock. It’s always a convivial affair. culturenight.ie
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THE NEW YORKER FESTIVAL October 4-6 Arguably The Big Apple’s most erudite publication, The New Yorker plays host to an annual literature festival featuring a Who’s Who of the world’s buzziest intellectuals. It’s by no means a sombre affair, last year’s guests included Vampire Weekend and Girls creator Lena Dunham. newyorker.com
ukulele-toting performance artist renowned for searing polemic. Step up New York’s Taylor Mac (September 17-21, Smock Alley Theatre) whose abridged version of a 24-hour concert will feature at least one song from each decade of the 20th century. If you fancy seeing contemporary dance, physical theatre and performance art coalesce, then make time for Fatherland (September 17-21, The Lir) from Scotland’s Nic Green. Its female protagonist examines paternal relationships, masculinity and family relationships – if that sounds forbiddingly po-faced, keep in mind that in one show-stopping set-piece she invites fellas from the audience to get their equine groove on and gallop about like horses. Well this is the Fringe, after all.
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FESTIVAL NUMBER 6, September 13-15 Wales’ Portmeirion is the backdrop for this thoughtfully curated shindig that places as much emphasis on literature as culture. This year sees live performances from Manic Street Preachers and My Bloody Valentine, alongside spoken word events from Caitlin Moran and DBC Pierre. festivalnumber6.com
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Rise of the Ronan empiRe Irish actor Saoirse Ronan is all grown up – and taking the lead role in a clutch of new movies this year. She tells Tony Clayton-Lea what it’s like to step out front. ell, that didn’t take too long, did it? We’ve been wondering just how much time it would take for 19-year-old Saoirse Ronan to inch her way up movie credits lists to the point where she would be, quite literally, the lead actor. She was almost there with 2008’s City of Ember, but was trumped by Bill Murray; she was close with 2009’s The Lovely Bones, but was beaten to the punch by Rachel Weisz and Mark Wahlberg; she was a hair’s breadth away with 2010’s The Way Back, but Colin Farrell (darn that handsome man!), got there first. It started to change with 2011’s Hanna, but Ronan’s titular teenage assassin character was slightly blinded by the co-star wattage of Eric Bana and Cate Blanchett. This year, however, is all-change for the Carlow woman. In the first six months of 2013, she has taken the leads in The Host, Byzantium and Violet & Daisy, while her
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forthcoming movie, How I Live Now, fully establishes her as an actor who can appear in every scene and leave an imprint of her character’s identity on your mind long after the film is over. The way she tells it, Ronan has sensed the difference in billing since Hanna, but realises that from this year onwards there are probably only two options to take: depending on the movie and the director, she will either lead from the front or work as part of an ensemble. “With a film such as How I Live Now, it’s great to head it, and to lead a brilliant group of actors, too. It’s lovely to be seen as that, but that’s only par for the course because the movie has such high standards, anyway.” In the film, which is directed by Kevin Macdonald, Ronan plays Daisy, a conflicted, sometimes bitter American teenager whose father packs her off to live with relatives in rural England. There will be, as the old song has it, trouble ahead – not only with Daisy and her cousins but also with the world.
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photograph by FabrIZIo MaLtESE / CoNtoUr by gEtty
IntervIew
Set in a not-too-distant future, How I Live Now (based on the young adult novel of the same name by Meg Rosoff) riffs on the premise of nuclear war, the breakdown of civilisation as we know it, and – amidst such no-rules chaos – the blossoming of love between teenage cousins. Not only is the film an intelligent treatment of the aforementioned subject matter but it’s also Ronan’s first real adult role and, as such, a genuine remove from her previous work. “I guess it is,” she accedes. “I suppose an outsider’s perspective is different from my own, which is why part of me thinks of the film as a collective piece of work. But, yes, there is a difference with this one. I’ve been in films the whole way through before, but it’s probably because I’m a little bit older here that people see a marked change.” Indeed we do – occasionally, Saoirse Ronan, you swear like a trooper and, unless we’re very much mistaken, you also have your inaugural intimate romance/love scene. “My character is what I am – that of an older teenager. Yes, the role is in many respects more grown up than a lot of other things I’ve done and it’s definitely me taking 30 |
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Acting up – How I Live Now is not only Ronan’s first adult role but her debut as a leading actor.
a step towards more adult-oriented roles. That has been gradual but I think I’m getting there.” Born in New York, the only child of Irish parents, Ronan and her family moved to Ireland when she was three years of age. She was inducted, you could say, into the world of filmmaking through her actor father, Paul, who has worked on films such as The Devil’s Own (1997) and Veronica Guerin (2003) as well as television shows such as Ballykissangel, The Clinic and The Tudors. Clearly, his daughter was bitten by the acting bug at an early age, and it continued to bite away at her as working on movie sets graduated from exciting novelty to established lifestyle choice. She came to startling prominence at the age of 13 in Atonement, director Joe Wright’s film treatment of Ian McEwan’s acclaimed novel of the same name. Ronan’s portrayal of the young Briony Tallis – who, in an act of betrayal, alters forever the lives of two people – is perfectly poised, her instincts natural, her cut-glass, upper-class English accent effortlessly accurate. It’s no wonder the Academy saw fit to nominate her for a Best Supporting Actress Oscar (she also received a BAFTA and a
Golden Globe Award nomination in the same category). Big oaks from small acorns grow, and so on, but was it an ambition even at that age to be where she is today? “It was never really something I thought about, to be honest. The role I had in Atonement – which was technically not a lead role, but was such an important character to the story – had so much to her that I could play with, even though I hadn’t fully realised at that point how to use the craft or, technically, knew how to use any sort of ability. I don’t think most kids at that age – or anyone who starts out without any training – realise that. It’s something more about instinct than anything else. It still is, to a degree, but obviously as you get older and the more experienced you are, you know how better to use it.” And each film role is yet another valued learning experience in the process of becoming a better actor. It is crucial, she emphasises, to work with different directors. To date, Ronan has worked with a remarkable list of quality directors, including Peter Jackson, Joe Wright, Peter Weir, Neil Jordan and Kevin Macdonald. Next year, her film releases include The Grand Budapest Hotel, directed by Wes Anderson, and How to Catch a Monster, the directorial debut of acclaimed actor Ryan Gosling. She recalls that the working relationships experienced from her first few films undoubtedly shaped her as an actor, honed her work ethic and how she behaved on set. “That’s still happening,” she affirms. “When you’re working with intelligent directors such as, to name just two, Peter Jackson and Wes Anderson – each of which is completely different – it’s pushing you to be smarter about what you’re doing. And when you have an intelligent script that you have to think about, it automatically ups your game. You learn from that and it will just make you a smarter actor.” And, if you’re really clever, a smarter person too? “Oh, yes, it isn’t like being in a class at school and reading a book about someone. In
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any film, you’re given a character to portray and you’re living their life, stepping into their world. So if it’s a period film, sci-fi, rooted in reality, or whatever, you’ll take something from it. Whether it’s emotional or intellectual, there is always something you can bring with you into your next piece of work. I’ve always found that after playing a character, it’s affected me a little bit. I’m able to walk away from it, of course, but it has kind of given me a different perspective and added something to my own personality, too. It’s like if you read a great book, or see a really good film – they can change the way you view things. It’s the quality of the things you invest in that’ll add to who you are.” And the lessons learned about herself from her time and work on How I Live Now? “I suppose not to be too hard all the time. I wouldn’t be as tough on people as my character Daisy would be but – while not necessarily applying this to myself – it has made me understand why other people are a little standoffish at first or come across as a bit cold. Obviously, there’s always a story in how people are, and just because they’re not like you or necessarily have the
same attitude towards things, or may not be as open as you, there’s a good reason for it. It’s about understanding what that reason is, isn’t it?” It’s onwards and upwards for this remarkably impressive Irish actor who, in a short space of time, has managed to rack up a catalogue of work that, quite frankly, feels as if she’s only just starting (and who, rather strategically, has said no to supporting roles in mega-budget movies with lengthy production schedules – The Hobbit, Anna Karenina – in order to be cast as the lead in ones with a lesser budget and that didn’t take as long to make). Drama, romance, sci-fi, animation (Ronan adds her voice to the forthcoming 3D adventure fantasy film, Justin and the Knights of Valour), action, horror and comedy – there seems little this young woman can’t tackle. Director Peter Jackson has said of her that
Saoirse Ronan lends her voice to Talia, in the forthcoming animation movie, Justin and the Knights of Valour.
she has the X factor: “It’s more than just acting skill; she makes you want to watch her. It’s an incredible quality that only the very best film stars have.” If you’re doing the same sort of things, the same kind of films, playing the same sort of characters, implies Ronan, then it makes you a bit lazy. “I’d think you’d stop trying, wouldn’t you? I get a bit nervous before every job because I’m not sure if I’m going to be able to do it, but I’d certainly prefer that to feeling that everything is going to be a doddle.” There have been times, she admits, where she has thought that a particular movie will be, as she has pointed out, a doddle. “Yet it has turned out to be one of the hardest things I’ve ever done. I’ve learned it’s always important to have an attitude of upping your game and I have no plans to change that.” Message understood – Ireland’s most successful female actor (and she’s not even 20!) has spoken. The rise of the Ronan Empire continues. Justin and the Knights of Valour is in cinemas from September 13; How I Live Now is in cinemas from October 4.
The Likes of Saoirse Ronan ... MUSIC “I flick between the present and the past without any problem. Two of my favourite current bands are Beach House, an American dream-pop act, and Alt-J, from Leeds, who won the Mercury Prize last year. Older acts that I listen to include Fleetwood Mac, The Smiths and David Bowie.” BOOKS “Now that I’m no longer tutored on set, I find the time between scenes perfect for chilling out with a book, so I’ve always something on the go. I’ve just had some time off, though, and during that I read Patti Smith’s autobiography, Just Kids, top right, which focuses on her time in New York in the 1970s with the photographer Robert Mapplethorpe and her entry into music. A wonderful book …”
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MOVIES “Oh, there are way too many to mention, but I just love the first two Francis Ford Coppola Godfather movies. A documentary film that I also love is The Act of Killing; it was released last year, directed by Joshua Oppenheimer, and is an incredible piece of filmmaking about former Indonesian death squad leaders.” RESTAURANTS “Travelling a lot for my work means that I get to try all kinds of food. I love Mexican, and in my opinion, the best Mexican restaurant I’ve been to in Ireland is El Paso (elpaso.ie), which is right in the centre of Howth village, Co Dublin. Earlier this year, I celebrated my 19th birthday there – a great night!” BARS “Naughtons, Quay Street,
Galway (tighneachtain.com), is a great old pub full of nooks and crannies and snugs. Sandinos, Water Street, Derry (sandinos.com), is as cool as any cool New York bar. As for Doheny & Nesbitts, below right,, Baggot Street, Dublin (dohenyandnesbitts.ie)) – well, Dublin pubs are the best anywhere.” CITY “Always New York. Dublin – it goes without saying, doesn’t it? And I really liked Detroit – I visited the city earlier this year to work on the new Ryan Gosling movie, How to Catch a Monster.”
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Back to the land
There’s nothing old world about Irish farming these days. Emily Hourican talks to innovators in the farming community – whether that means investing in robotics or going organic. Photographs by Steve Ryan.
t’s September, and that means the National Ploughing Championships are putting up their tents. Producing the annual event must be a little like staging a series of massive weddings. Some 285 hectares of land, 190,000 visitors and 1,100 exhibitors. This is one of the biggest outdoor events in Europe – a threeday showcase of all that’s best about Irish farming, alongside all that is most innovative. The story it tells is one of imagination and a creative response to the challenges presented by weather and commodity prices, in a notoriously uncertain industry. Alongside the stated business of the championships – ploughing – are fashion shows, home and garden stalls, a food fair, craft village, bioenergy demonstrations, sheepdog trials and far, far more. The spirit of the championships – the exuberance and energy demonstrated by those who visit and take part – is the same spirit that is emerging throughout Irish farming. “This is a huge industry,” confirms Eddie Downey, deputy president of the Irish Farmers’ Association and a farmer with land “next to Newgrange” in Co Meath. “Nine billion euro worth of exports annually, 300,000 jobs. We achieve the highest wheat yield in the world and we are the finest grass-
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growing country. We have the best traceability system and the highest animal welfare standards.” What the sector brings, however, isn’t quantifiable only in terms of yield and production. “Farming is the lynchpin of the tourism industry too. The fact that our country has such a beautiful appearance, the patchwork of fields and greenery, is thanks to farmers. And the farmers are very proud of what they do.” Farming, then, is a foundation on which the entire country can continue to build, the bedrock of what we do so well. And it is currently in a good place. “There are great opportunities for Irish agriculture,” says Downey. “Three hundred million consumers in Europe who need food, and 90 per cent of what we produce going to export.” Figures released by Bord Bia show an eight per cent increase – some €370 million – in our food and drink exports in the first six months of 2013, relative to the same period in the year before. A deeper look shows that, despite CAP reforms at EU level, which means farms are steadily getting larger and farmers now have the freedom to farm whatever they want on their land, the importance of diversification is greater than ever. Each of our featured farmers is deeply engaged in adding value to the traditional business of farming.
It’s a case of going the extra mile, and discovering that it will take you on a whole new journey; as Valerie Kingston of Glenilen Farm in Co Cork puts it: “This started as a way to make pin-money. Now, we have a turnover of €3 million a year and employ 30 people in our locality.” The old days of cottage industries being just that have been replaced with much greater possibilities in a globalised world. That, in turn, is inspiring a new generation of farmers, increasingly highly educated and motivated by choice rather than chance inheritance. “The agricultural colleges are full,” says Downey, “now we must meet the challenges to ensure young people thrive in this industry.” Farming as an industry has been a solid, dependable dynamo, quietly humming away in the background during the boom. Now, the face of Irish farming is evolving rapidly. From welcome infiltration into urban spaces provided by endeavours such as the Chocolate Factory’s rooftop farm, growing organic herbs and vegetables in the heart of Dublin city, to the many new approaches taken by today’s farmers, this is an industry that shows resilience, creativity and wonderful energy. The National Ploughing Championships run from September 24-26 at Ratheniska, Co Laois; npa.ie
Gwen Meredith
Derrylough, Rosenallis, Co Laois
“The cows adapted within a week. They picked it up a lot quicker than I did.” Gwen Meredith laughs. She’s explaining her switch to the high-tech world of farming robotics – investing in a robot to do some of the most labourintensive work. “I diversified from beef to dairy cattle, but didn’t want to have to be tied to milking every morning and evening.” So she outsourced, spending over €100,000 on a robot to do the job for her. “It’s a lot of money but it is working 24/7, and will do for over ten years. The cows come in when they want to be milked or, when they want fresh grass, they have to pass through the shed and are milked as they go.” Gwen was born and brought up on the Portlaoise farm where she lives. She studied agriculture in the UK, then came home “with the idea that I would get an off-farm job. But you get sucked in. That was ten years ago and I’m still here full-time.” Last year, she took over the farm from her father, who is technically retired, “although he is still deeply involved,” she says, “it’s hard to retire on a farm.” What has drawn her so that she can’t let go, is that “it’s just a lovely way of life. It can be stressful, with so many variables, but to be outdoors is the main thing.” Next year, Gwen will get married. Her fiancé, Trevor Carnegie, is a farmer too and the couple will live on Gwen’s farm. “He has an automatic calf feeder,” she says, “but really, there is a limit to how much the farmer’s role can be taken over by technology. The welfare and health of the animals – it’s still me who has that responsibility.”
people
Klaus Laitenberger
Milkwood Farm, Tawley, Co Leitrim
“To be out and have the freedom of the countryside, the smells, the sounds; it’s a sensory thing. To be with nature and work with nature, rather than just look at it, this is the joy,” says Klaus Laitenberger, who has worked in horticulture all his life, and first came to Ireland from Germany to be head gardener at the Organic Centre in Co Leitrim. These days, he runs his own farm (“mostly vegetables, also hens, ducks, geese”) and lectures at University College Cork. He is also the author of Vegetables for the Irish Garden. “What happened in Ireland was a sort of generation gap; a whole generation of people who didn’t know how to grow their own food any more. But now consumers and the general public want Irish-produced fresh vegetables.” Even so, the rate of conversion from conventional to organic farming is very slow. “Only one per cent of land is cultivated organically, and that hasn’t changed since I’ve been here. Other countries would have 5-15%.” He laughs about the unpredictability of farming – “you are not the boss, the weather is. If you are a carpenter or engineer, you can learn the job perfectly; in farming, you can never know everything. Each year is different, you become more humble that way.” For Klaus, the great strength of Ireland is the land. “There is no nuclear power or heavy industry to pollute. This could be a real green island, where land could be farmed sustainably and food would be of the best quality.”
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people
Helen Gee
Abbeyleix, Co Laois “I’ve always loved nature. I love to sow things and see them growing. I love the countryside, picking wild blackberries along the ditch, mushrooms in the field; the seasons coming and going, leaves changing colour.” The simplicity and authenticity of Helen Gee’s jams is clearly reflected in her attitude towards the countryside and her life within it. “I was born and raised on a farm, and I married a farmer. We had cows, pigs, hens. We grew wheat, barley and sugar beet but, as our three children began getting older, we needed more money. There’s not that much profit in tillage, so we grew raspberries and rhubarb, and I started making jam, selling it at farmers’ markets. It just grew and grew from there.” These days, Helen’s wonderful jams, sold under two labels – Abbey Farm and G’s Gourmet Jams – regularly win Great Taste Awards, and are still made in the most traditional of ways. “In saucepans, with just two ingredients, fruit and sugar,” she says. “It’s very labour intensive – you’re stirring all day by hand, weighing out the fruit and the sugar – but I have no intention of changing it.” Helen’s love for what she does is clearly infectious; two of her three children are involved with the business. “My son was my first chef, now he’s the sales director, and my daughter has come home from Canada to work in production with me.” And she herself makes no secret of her delight in what they do together: “I could make jam all day and still come back and have bread and jam for my tea,” she says.
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people
Johnny Lynch
Toonsbridge Dairy, Macroom, Co Cork
“A cow will walk away from you, a buffalo will walk up to you; it’s more like a friend.” Until just a couple of months ago, Johnny Lynch was the only farmer in Ireland to have buffalo. He started with 31 animals in 2009 and is now up to a herd of 125. What began as a smart business choice – “the only buffalo cheese in the country was imported, expensive and over a week old by the time it got here” – has become a labour of love. “It was an inspired moment,” he says of the decision. “The animals become like part of the family. If they get sick, as happens, that’s very upsetting. They are hardier than cattle, but vets don’t yet know how to cope, they don’t have the experience, but they are learning as we’re learning.” Initially Johnny had Friesians as well as buffalo, but a year ago he sold his last cows to concentrate solely on the more exotic herd. “This is very interesting,” he says, “I’m meeting many more people now because I go and give a hand at making the cheese; there’s more activity, more life.” It is something that cannot be dismissed in the often-lonely life of farm work. So what are the challenges of farming buffalo? “Up to a year old, they’re very temperamental; then they get very hardy. But the first year is a difficult time. When the weather is wet, they love to make ponds and wallow in them. When you’re milking them, it becomes a problem because they’re too muddy. I leave the ones not being milked to wallow. It’s intense but good, very enjoyable.”
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September 2013
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people
Pat Lalor
Ballard Farm, Kilbeggan, Co Westmeath Pat Lalor’s decision, in 1999, to move from conventional to organic farming was a pragmatic one – “to try and make some more money,” he admits. “But I suppose since then I’ve come to enjoy the organic way of farming. When I was a conventional farmer, I was a scientific farmer. Now, I’m a biological farmer. My job is to nurture the soil, look after it, get it into the best possible state of health, so it will grow crops that are disease free.” The crucial difference is that, with conventional farming, if you encounter problems there is always a quick fix, a prescription. With organic farming, the plan is to avoid having problems, because there are no quick fixes. So what most appeals to him about the farming lifestyle? “On a wet day, nothing appeals to me,” he says, then admits, “I like being my own boss, I like to make up my mind as I go along at my own pace. I could not be governed by a clock.” The downside, of course, is the unpredictability. “It’s very difficult to plan anything ahead; when the weather changes, your plans have to change. If you’re a very rigid person who likes all their ducks in a row, you’d go mad. It’s not for everybody,” he says. These days, Pat produces his own porridge, that breakfast staple Kilbeggan Organic oats. “That’s a very good development,” he says. “There’s more to life than making money, there’s job satisfaction as well, and there’s more of that now than there has ever been.”
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people
Valerie Kingston
Glenilen Farm, Drimoleague, Co Cork Innovation is the engine of Glenilen Farm. What began as a hobby for Valerie Kingston back in 1997 – using milk from the family’s dairy herd to make cheesecake to sell at local markets – has blossomed into a viable business and yoghurts, butter and crème fraîche and other milk-based products have followed. “Consumers are more concerned about the origin, wholesomeness and flavour of their food, and Glenilen and many other quality artisan food producers can fill this gap between producers and consumers, and perhaps help us out of the economic mess we’re in.” With three children, aged 14, twelve and nine – the balance between family and work is one that needs to be carefully guarded. “Because home and workplace are the same on the farm, you need more discipline in making space for family time. We don’t want our kids to grow up thinking we were always too busy, running around like headless chickens,” she says. “For us Sunday is always a rest and family day, for practical and faith reasons. Luckily we have a wonderful team at Glenilen and have learnt to delegate, which has paid back tremendously.” Would she be happy to see her children following her? “Only if they have a passion and an interest. It is a real blessing to enjoy what you do, because then it doesn’t seem so much like work.” Hertz Car Rental: Cara would like to thank Hertz for their assistance. For best car rental deals, visit aerlingus.com and click on the Hertz icon, or call reservations from Ireland on 01 813 3844.
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September 2013
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adventure | connemara
Wacky races With its amazing variety of mountains, rivers, beaches, lakes and bogs, Ireland has become one of Europe’s most popular locations for adventure racing. Ben Webb puts his body on the starting line. Photographs by David Sciora and Peter Dybowski.
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On the run - Ben Webb and running mate Daryl Krywonis power along on the Gaelforce Connemara Adventure Challenge.
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Adventure | connemArA
t was like the Somme, but without the bullets. I stood in a line of apprehensive faces waiting for the signal to go over the top and fearing the next few hours would take its toll. Ahead of us loomed a sheer peat wall, the start of the 31-kilometre race – including a run, mountain hike, cycle and kayak – through the wilds of Connemara. But I couldn’t complain. I was a volunteer. And then we were off, whooping with excitement, sliding and scrabbling in the black peat until we were up and onto the bog proper, when we began to run forward in squelching, sucking footsteps through no man’s land. A comrade ahead suddenly vanished up to his waist in the dark water of the
I
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bog. Another’s boot vanished. The casualties were building. It was hilarious, exhilarating and already I could feel the tell-tale lactic burn in my thighs. As the ascent got steeper, the jokes faded away and we all began to find our rhythm, hearts pumping, lungs struggling. The sun broke through the rain clouds and glinted off the trees that ran along the Western Way. Our first target was the timing point four kilometres away, at the foot of the steep climb to a peak in the Maam Turks. The Gaelforce Connemara Adventure Challenge was well and truly underway. Adventure racing is booming in Ireland. Gaelforce is just one of the many organisations now setting up challenges across the country.
The race starts with a mad scramble across bogland. Right, our writer Ben Webb looking pre-race confident.
Many of them combine running/ hiking, cycling on and off road and kayaking in an adventure triathlon. Some add in a stage or two of swimming. To add a bit of order and spice, a selection has been chosen to create a national adventure race point series (100 points for first, 99 for second, etc) that starts at
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Adventure | connemArA
the MonsterMAC in Cork (April 27) and ends at the Westport Sea 2 Summit (November 9). But it is important to point out adventure racing is not designed solely for nutters who dream about climbing Everest one day and informing their grandchildren in hushed tones that frost bite is damned painful. Yes, of course a certain level of fitness is required, but the word “race” is misleading. You are timed, but plenty of the competitors just want to complete the course and have a fabulous day out in the wilds. Some just want to be, well, daft. You can sign up for the Turf Warrior Challenge, for example, 10 kilometres of “swinging, jumping and climbing”
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through forests and bogs and rivers around Killary harbour. The bumph pulls no punches: “Please be warned that your clothing will get extremely wet and dirty!” Others want a great – and challenging – day out. A good example is the Oxfam Trailtrekker, a 50-kilometre hike through the Mountains of Mourne and along the Carlingford coastline for teams of between three and six. In case it’s too far, a new 25-kilometre event has been started.
Below, race mementos, and bottom, Gerry O'Reilly leads the way across a water challenge.
It’s an inclusive idea, a reason to get out and about and experience some of Ireland’s stunning scenery and raise money. “From complete novices to seasoned hill-walkers, hundreds of people from all walks of life will raise vital funds for Oxfam’s work around the world,” said David Nixon, Oxfam Ireland’s director of fundraising and business development. “With the right training and preparation just about anyone can complete the 50-kilometre route. It’s an enjoyable team challenge that will test your stamina and fitness.” It’s not about
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Adventure | connemArA
Top kit tips Ambrose Flynn of 53 Degrees North on what to wear. Shoes The most important part of any adventure runners' kit is shoes. Road runners will not suffice. Trail runners not only provide grip but also enhance confidence to move over complex ground at speed. The range of trail runners is extensive, but if you talk to an in-store expert you will get the right product and fit. Socks A key piece of gear. We recommend a light merino sock with high wicking properties, a low cuff, extra padding on the heel and toe-box. But get the correct size as if they are too big, friction is created and blisters will occur. the legs Depending on the weather and time of year, some adventure racers will wear shorts, some will wear compression tights. Wear something comfortable that can handle moisture and doesn’t restrict movement.
times for most participants; it’s about the €385 you have to raise to enter. Exactly 24 minutes and seven seconds. That was my time when I reached the first dibbing point at the End of the Bog. Everyone has a wristband holding a chip that is slotted into a machine. Ahead was a steep climb to the summit of a hill. The time was not important when I started the race but, once you are up and running, the clock seeps into your psyche. I wanted to go as fast as possible … but finish. I started to jog up the hill, slowly, but it was a jog, technically, I think. But not for long. With relief, I noticed that all the other racers were hiking in quickstep rather than running. It was a truly, thighbusting climb. At times, I had to use my hands to scramble up the damp, slippery slope. A few of the racers 52 |
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stopped in their tracks, turned and surveyed the scene, hands on hips. Ireland’s only fjord, Killary Harbour, shimmered in the sun, the waves white-topped, as a dark squall blew up the valley and the rain began. I kept on. No stopping. I had feared the mountain climb section the most, but it was not to prove the low point. That moment when you ask the question: why the hell did I do this? That was to come later. I still felt buoyed by adrenaline. At the top I dibbed again – 43 minutes and 56 seconds
Train in it before the event. You don’t want nasty surprises on race day. upper body For multidisciplinary events where you run, cycle and kayak, what you wear on your upper body is important. When running, one should go light and unrestricted, possibly with a booster layer in a small pack if necessary. When cycling the upper body can become cold so the booster layer may become a game changer. And the same applies to kayaking also. A light breathable running top is essential as the temperatures can drop by two degrees with every 200 metres ascended. Possibly look for something water resistant and with pockets that are useful. Accessories Take a light backpack, ideally with a water bladder. Something that fits your body and has little movement on the shoulder straps as you run.
Top, follow the leader – a boggy run and steep climb face the entrants. Left, the right gear is essential in rough terrain and, below, picking up speed on the road.
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Adventure | connemArA
– and started running down into the next valley where the bikes were waiting for us. Gravity, at last, was on my side. It was downhill (in a good way) from here ... for a while at least. As I descended – a strange combination of running, skidding and squelching in the thick bog – I was suddenly very grateful for my footwear: a pair of Salomon XA PRO 3Ds, which are specifically designed for mountain-trail running. Despite the conditions, they gripped amazingly well and were very, very comfortable. Good kit makes racing in the great outdoors a lot more enjoyable and, yes, safer. Hours stuck on a remote hillside in freezing fog with a twisted ankle is no fun. You need to be warm; on the other hand you don’t want to carry excess baggage. I had nipped into 53 Degrees North to get some kit – and 54 |
September 2013
Above, scenic route – Pine Island in Derryclare Lough and, right, Tim Enright fords a river.
Get set ... WickloW Adventure rAce September 14 Running up the Great Sugar Loaf; cycling over Sally Gap; kayaking for two kilometres on the scenic Vartry Lakes and running above the Powerscourt Waterfall. It’s all in a day’s work when going to WAR. The seven-stage full race is about 65 kilometres while the five-stage WAR Sport race is a mere 39 kilometres. Fee €69. wicklowadventurerace.com/ powerscourt-adventure-race-wicklow. rugged PeAkS chAllenge october 5 A picturesque challenge involving running, biking, kayaking and hiking over the 60-kilometre extreme course (1,415-metre elevation) or the 44-kilometre sprint course (777-metre elevation). The location: the amazing landscape of the Ballyliffin and Clonmany region, which is nestled into
the most northerly peninsula of Inishowen in Co Donegal. The highlight could be the two-kilometre run along the beautiful Pollan Strand. Fee €60. extremenorthevents.com. WeStPort SeA2Summit november 9 A unique combination of hiking, mountain biking, running – including a sea run through two feet of water – and an obstacle course. The 67-kilometre, supreme course takes you to the top of the iconic Croagh Patrick and a cycle up the Maum. But no one said it was easy! Even the Spirit Course for beginners is tough (although, the elite runners do it in about three-and-a-half hours). Fee €59. westportsea2summit.ie.
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Adventure | connemArA
Where to stay ... For vIeWS And SPA After the Connemara adventure race we headed to the delphi mountain resort (Leenane, Connemara, 095 42208; delphimountainresort. com), and flopped straight into a Jacuzzi with magnificent mountain views. This four-star hotel, with wonderfully friendly staff, is perfectly located for anyone who wants to enjoy Ireland’s natural beauty. And don’t miss the hearty breakfasts. Rates from €69 B&B pps. For vIeWS And cHoWder The view from the Seafood bar of ocean Lodge (Killadoon, 098 68605; oceanlodgekilladoon. com), across the sprawling Cross and Carrowniskey beaches to Achill Island in the distance, is wonderful. But not a patch on the bowl of chowder that came with chips for a fiver. Alan Heanue’s kitchen is not to be missed. You can also stay in the lodge with rates from €35 B&B pps. For SteAK And muSIc The barman at Gaynors in Leenane village gave us pints of Guinness with the grim news that all the local restaurants were closed for the night. He then called the Leenane Hotel (095 42249; leenanehotel.com), ordered two steaks and told us to return the
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glasses in the morning. There, a band was belting out trad music, and the rib-eye steaks were perfect. There’s no doubt this family-run hotel, which overlooks Killary Harbour, is a classic example of a good Irish welcome. Rates from €49 B&B pps. For ActIon grouPS Killary Adventure group (Leenane, 095 43411; killaryadventure.com), has its own dorm and private accommodation, with everything from gorge walking to water trampolining within easy range. Called K2, and with a natty grassy roof, its environmentally sensitive design overlooks Killary Harbour. Shared rooms from €21 pps, with Gaelforce event packages available. For LuXurY Where better to melt away those activity-induced aches and pains than in the thermal suites at castlecourt resort Hotel’s Spa Sula? (Westport, 098 55088; castlecourthotel.ie)? Furthermore, the team behind this four-star property also organise the Westport Sea2Summit race in November, with two-night packages from €378 per couple. Otherwise, rooms from €73.
Right, the course curves along forest tracks and, far right, Liam Cashman makes good time. Below, kayakers coming ashore due to high winds and, bottom, the open road to Kylemore Lough.
advice – and was mesmerised by the variety of designs and technology on offer. Adam, the guru, nodded sagely as I described the event. “I’d wear this,” he said. “And this ... and this.” It’s all about layers, including one that wicks water away from the skin and an outer waterproof one. “The body loses heat much, much faster when it’s damp,” Adam warned. I was drenched from the rain and the damp bog when I hit the valley floor and very warm too. I started the short run to the bikes, which I hit after 56.27 minutes. The eight-kilometre trail through the hills and down to the coast was beautiful, crossing rivers and curving through the trees. It was the most enjoyable section of the race, utterly pleasurable, but then I hit the road that stretched into the distance, and a soul-destroying headwind. I was slow over the nine kilometres and I knew it. A woman half my age (which isn’t saying much) whizzed by on a racer. The gamble of using a mountain bike
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“It’s an adventure race,” I replied. “It’s dangerous,” he said with a belittling finality. “Kayaking cancelled.” And so we had to run the kayak stage, back up the hill, legs complaining, and that was the moment I asked the question: why? I walked for a bit. My accomplice, Daryl, did too. We chatted as though on a Sunday afternoon stroll. Rebels taking a chance to relax. But when our legs recovered a little we began to trot, then run the five-kilometre stretch along the tarmac road back to the Western Way and the undulating four-and-ahalf kilometres home. It was a struggle, but we crossed the line together after three hours, 15 minutes and 21 seconds. It was a lovely feeling. Hot soup was served. Everyone was smiling and happy. We were dreaming of pints of Guinness in Hamilton’s in Leenane. And we weren’t nutrition alone. We went to look at Keep it simple. Hydrate the time sheets. The elite in advance. Use gels on longer racers completed the runs/cycles. Increase your intake was not paying off. course in just over two of carbs in the week leading up to And so I did forget hours. Paul McMahon the event but not the night before. about time, and came second. “Some of us Don’t skip breakfast! If you find it watched the Connemara are very serious and try to hard to eat, wake up early and countryside slide slowly shave every second off our eat something you enjoy past as the sun came out. times,” he said, “but the time slowly. I remember it now as being isn’t everything because every calm and peaceful – Ireland’s year the conditions vary. The bog west coast at its sublime best. might be wetter or the wind can be Finally, I was back at the Killary Shiny, happy from a different direction. And you faces – from top, can’t compare races because each Adventure Centre for the run at the finishing race is different and offers a unique down to the kayaks. Running line, Sheila Kilduff, after cycling feels very strange Siobhán Bennett challenge. There are many people – your leg muscles feel and, at the kayak who just want to enjoy the experience stage, Thomas of getting round. There are plenty of all disjointed and the Kavanagh. people still to finish ...” wrong shape – but at least we could rest weary I stared back across the bog and legs in the colourful the trail that clung to the side of the kayaks that we could see hill. Brightly coloured splashes of hibeing whooshed along tech kit were slowly moving towards the fjord by the high us and the relief of the finishing line. wind. Unlike all the brave recruits who Too high. I arrived went over the top a century ago, at the landing station to we will all live to fight another day. find shivering, capsized Adventure racing in Ireland’s unique kayakers who had been landscape is here to stay. dragged from the water. For more on Gaelforce races, “It’s carnage out there,” gaelforceevents.com a marshal warned. 58 |
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culture break | Stockholm
Street views of Södermalm, with Belén Vázquez, opposite, soaking up the atmosphere.
Music city Listen up, fans of kitsch - ABBA The Museum is open for business. Mega fan Brian Finnegan is Bjรถrn again on a trip to Stockholm, the band's native city. Photographs by Joanne Murphy.
culture break | Stockholm
alking through the “hall of fame” at arrivals in Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport, I slowly became aware that a portrait of Sweden’s most famous exports is missing. I passed Alfred Nobel and Björn Borg, Lasse Hallström and Stieg Larsson, Alexander Skarsgård and Max von Sydow, Roxette and Robyn – but ABBA are conspicuous by their absence. For many who travel to Stockholm, ABBA have been a key draw since the height of their fame
W
in the late 1970s and 1980s, and this year, with the opening of ABBA The Museum (abbathemuseum.com), thousands more visitors are flocking every day to immerse themselves in all things Agnetha, Björn, Benny and Anni-Frid. According to Stockholm native Carl Magnus Palm, author of Bright Lights Dark Shadows: The Real Story of ABBA, the band have identified the city much in the same way The Beatles cast their shadow over the cultural identity of Liverpool. “ABBA’s music is much-loved all over the world and is somehow a part of what represents Sweden to many people,” he says. “For potential visitors, their music and their image are a part of the cultural context of Stockholm and Sweden.” My visit to the Swedish city was as research for my new novel, in which ABBA fictitiously reunite for one concert only in
Above, Södermalm where the vintage shops and cool cafés offer plenty of distraction. Right, our super trouper, Brian Finnegan. Left, Changing of the Guards at the Royal Palace in the old town, Gamla Stan.
their native capital, so I aimed to immerse myself in a very particular experience of the city. However, I could see very little evidence of my quarry anywhere. Stockholm gets on with its business in a particularly ABBA-free way. As with any major city, there are plenty of tacky tourist shops in the heavily visited areas, but they’re packed with Pippi Longstocking paraphernalia and plastic Viking hats, and there’s not an Agnetha wig to be seen, or an ABBA Gold CD on any shelf. Stockholm is built on 14 interconnected islands on the Baltic
a year are drawn to Right guaRd More than one million visitors (daily at 12.15pm, the Changing of the Guard at the Royal Palace music from the Military Sundays at 1pm). It’s accompanied by stirring two of Dancing Queen. Band – who sometimes break into a chorus or
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culture break | Stockholm
Sleep at ... buDGet This family-run, Södermalm’s hotel hornsgatan (Hornsgatan 66B, 11821, +46 8 658 2901; hotelhornsgatan.se) has rooms from SEK355 per night, but doesn’t compromise on style, space, cleanliness or breakfast. Be warned, though – you might have to share a bathroom. mID-PrIce As the official hotel partner of the ABBA Museum, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the clarion Sign (Östra Järnvägsgatan 35, 10126, +46 8 676 9800; clarionsign.com might be awash with lamé clarionsign.com) and glitterballs. Not so. From its glass and granite Gert Wingårdh-designed architecture, to furniture by Arne Jacobsen, Bruno Mathsson and Alvar Aalto, it’s a shrine to Nordic design. Clean lines are as stylish as the heated rooftop pool is welcome, and Stockholm Central Station is just a few minutes’ walk away. Rooms from SEK1,180. Located right in the heart of the shopping
Sea. This might seem confusing when reading a guidebook in advance of a visit, but in truth the city couldn’t be easier to navigate. What’s more, its compact size allows you to get a real sense of its different areas and atmospheres very quickly. There’s almost nowhere from which
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you can’t see water reflected by blue skies in the summer, and it gives the city a uniquely open, airy feeling. It’s a place where the teeming natural world sits very comfortably with the imposing urban landscape. The island everyone converges on to begin with is Stadsholmen,
area, and looking out on a tiny park, berns hotel (Näckströmsgatan 8, 11147, +46 8 5663 2200; berns.se) is a boutique hotel that aces ergonomics. With rooms from SEK1,912, see the Scandinavian knack for storage space up close, and marvel at how it’s also so comfortable. If you’re into nightlife, it’s the place for you but, with a club attached, it can get noisy at the weekend if you have a room near the front. SPlurGe Owned by Benny Andersson of ABBA fame, hotel rival (Mariatorget 3, Södermalm, +46 8 5457 8900; rival.se) sits on a quiet little square in bohemian Södermalm, ten minutes’ walk from the old town, Gamla Stan. The rooms, from SEK2,395, range in sizes, but an economy room is spacious enough, and all decorated in quirky, individual style. The service is next to none, and the great breakfast will set you up for a day’s sightseeing.
Top, interiors at Hotel Hornsgatan and Hotel Rival respectively. Below, Stortorget, Stockholm's oldest square, in Gamla Stan, as little Viking Oscar looks on.
home of Gamla Stan, or the “Old Town”. A maze of cobbled streets lined with galleries, curio shops and typical Swedish cafés, that all converge on the terrace-lined Stortorget, or “the big square”; by midday it’s packed to bursting with tourists. A good tip is to wander its highways and byways early in the morning, coming across Baroque palaces on corners, romantic little squares and Renaissance cathedrals at your leisure. You can sit in the leafy square outside Benny and Frida’s first apartment together on a street called Baggensgatan and
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culture break | Stockholm
imagine their Eurovision-winning “Waterloo” being written there. Like many cities, Stockholm has a north/south divide and, depending on what you’re looking for, you’ll probably find yourself hanging out in either. Östermalm in the north is an upmarket borough, its treelined boulevards populated with couture and Scandinavian design shops, Michelin star restaurants and the city’s top end nightspots. At its heart is Stureplan, with its landmark meeting place, nicknamed “Svampen”, or “the mushroom”, by the locals. In the evenings the beautiful people (in Stockholm, nearly everyone is beautiful) gather here before a night out on the tiles in clubs, such as Riche (riche.se) or Laroy (stureplansgruppen.se), that cater to the city’s celeb set.
According to Palm, the 1978 ABBA hit “Summer Night City” might have been written about places like this, even though in the 1970s the clubs of Östermalm didn’t exist. “I’ve always imagined ABBA out and about in Stockholm in the late 1970s when I hear that song,” he says. “It’s not a song about being at, for example, Studio 54 in New York City; it’s about romanticising big city night-life from the perspective of someone living in
Author of Bright Light Dark Shadows: The Real Story of ABBA, Carl Magnus Palm, left, and a winning vista of Östermalm. Below, sensational seafood at Sturehof.
a city that didn’t have much of a night-life at the time.” These days you’re more likely to bump into ABBA’s grandchildren boogying to “Summer Night City” in Östermalm’s buzzing clubs. Djurgården, the city’s rambling royal gardens with its abundance of museums and the legendary Gröna Lund (gronalund.com) amusement park, are part of the area, and a favourite haunt with most of Stockholmian society for weekend
Eat at ... buDGet There are Thai restaurants all over Stockholm, but koh Phanagan (Skånegatan 57, Södermalm, +46 8 642 5040; kohphangan. se), with its seaside atmosphere, complete with beach canopies and twinkling lights, is special. Sit in a tuk-tuk or the “jungle area” and enjoy a delicious Pad Thai for about SEK165 (€20), which is cheap for Stockholm. They don’t take reservations, so expect to queue on Saturday nights.
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mID-PrIce bakfickan, aka The Hip Pocket (Kungliga Operan, Karl XIIs Torg, +46 8 676 5800; operakallaren.se) shares a kitchen with the fine-dining restaurant, Operakällaren at The Opera House, but it has a very café-like atmosphere. The fare is unpretentious Swedish comfort food and the meatballs are some of the best in the city. Be warned, the interior only seats 26 people, so you’re advised to book ahead.
SPlurGe Sturehof (Stureplan 2, Östermalm, +46 8 440 5730; sturehof.com) is a must for traditional Swedish seafood. The atmosphere is buzzing and the locals love it. In summer, book a table on the terrace and people-watch as you start with three or five sorts of herring, and follow up with a main of mouthwatering butter-fried pike perch. Bottles of wine cost an arm and a leg here – it’s cheaper if you drink by the glass.
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culture break | stockholm
You simply must ...
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Visit the absolut ice bar. Sample fruit-flavoured Absolut vodka in this legendary bar at the Nordic sea hotel (Vasaplan 4, +46 8 505 6352; nordicseahotel. se) made out of ice. On hot summer days, it’s a cool refuge; in winter, staff members provide you with mittens and coats! The drinks are pricey though. Come prepared. cruise the archipelago. No trip to Stockholm would be complete without a steamboat tour of the archipelago, a wonderland of leafy islands complete with cute summer cottages on the beautiful Baltic. ABBA owned an island together on the archipelago as married couples, and many of their best songs were written there. siNg with abba. A stateof-the-art experience awaits you at abba the museum (Djurgärdsvägen 68, +46 8 1213 2860; abbathemuseum.com), a hightech tribute to the Swedish 1970s superstars. You can even sing with
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walks or cycles, and meet-ups in its abundant restaurants. However, after September some of the cafés and restaurants close for the cold Scandinavian autumn and winter. Never mind, post-summer there are several good reasons to visit Djurgården, not least the Beer and Whiskey Festival (the last weekend in September, and first in October), one of the world’s biggest and best booze fests. Or in winter, why not
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animated versions of Agnetha, Björn, Benny and Frida and bring home your video for posterity – or even Tweet it in situ. go to market. Östermalm’s saluhall is a gastronomic treasure trove, where stall after stall sells Sweden’s finest produce. The place is permeated with the competing scents of coffee and spices, and, along with the stalls, there are plenty of places to sit down and enjoy the best in Swedish cuisine. Fridays and Saturdays at lunchtime are the best time to go. haVe your cake aNd eat it. The Swedish tradition of “fika” – the enjoyment of a mid-afternoon coffee and cake – is something you must adopt while visiting Stockholm, which has a traditional bakery on every corner. Don’t leave without experiencing the mazarin, a sweet pastry filled with almond paste, at riddarbageriet (Riddargatan 15, Östermalm). It’s cake heaven.
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enjoy glögg (mulled wine) and ginger snaps at the spectacular Christmas Market at Skansen (skansen.se) open-air museum. Djurgården is also the home of ABBA The Museum, which opened in the Swedish Music Hall of Fame (smhof.se) to much fanfare in May, after a long gestation. The museum is unique in that it gives you an interactive experience in which ABBA have virtually reunited to
This page, snapshots of ABBA The Museum, its CEO Mattias Hanson pictured below left. Opposite, Veronica Lofdahl in the doorway of her Gamla Stan shop, Iris Hantverk, which sells traditional, handmade handicrafts.
tell their story as you travel through the exhibits. According to the CEO of the museum, Mattias Hanson: “All four members of the group opened up their closets to supply memorabilia, instruments, clothes and more.” The museum is a state-of-theart interactive experience – and a teenage dream come true for me. You can record your own version of an ABBA hit, singing along with a backing track in a replica of the original Polar Studios in Stockholm,
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ILLUSTRATION By FUchSIA MAcAREE
culture break | Stockholm
Right, a sunkissed shortcut in Södermalm. Below, Emma Frisk outside cute café Blooms Bageri.
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where the band recorded the majority of their songs. You can remix ABBA songs using digital copies of the original, 24-track tapes, though you will probably find it hard to outdo the classic versions by producer Michael B Tretow. You can dance on a stage with life-size animations of the group, sharing your experiences via social media as you go along. According to Hanson, the museum attracts mainly foreign visitors rather than natives; many from Britain, Australia, Germany, the Netherlands and Norway, where ABBA found their first international audiences, and they’re coming in their droves. “If it continues this way we will soon have had more ‘live audience’ than ABBA played for during their touring years,” says Hanson. As for my perceived ambivalence of the natives towards the band, he argues, “the majority of
Swedes are very proud of ABBA”. Although it’s only a quick bus or Tunnelbana ride away, bohemian Södermalm in the south couldn’t be further from Östermalm and Djurgården. I had booked into the Hotel Rival (rival.se) there, which is owned by ABBA’s Benny. Södermalm is a charmingly unique spot, where trendy boutiques, great vintage shops, alternative galleries, and quirky bars and cafés rub shoulders with family-run restaurants and ancient “local” hostelries. Although the Rival is five-star, it typifies Södermalm with its ground floor café full of guys in polo necks and black-framed glasses and girls in dreadlocks and rainbow clothes, sipping coffee as they look out on a small, bicycle-lined square. Benny's development of the Rival, on the site of an Art Deco cinema (the world premiere of the Mamma Mia! movie was screened there), is part of his civic interest in the area, and it’s here I unearthed the mystery of why ABBA aren’t pictured on the airport hall of fame. A friendly local told me Benny requested it be removed. He was part of a group who objected to the city’s plans to re-develop Slussen, a confusing feat of road engineering from the 1930s that connects Gamla Stan to Södermalm. So opposed, he once said he’d consider an ABBA reunion if it helped stop the plans. However, the city council voted in the redevelopment’s favour – which had Benny insisting he didn’t want to be an advertisement for a city that can’t see reason. However, it’s hard to see Stockholm as an unreasonable city. Everything about it seems built with its users in mind. It only took me a weekend to fall in love with this easygoing mini-metropolis that has a little something for everyone – and now, with its brand new museum, even us ABBA lovers are getting a look in. Brian Finnegan is the author of Knowing Me Knowing You (hachette Books, £7.99).
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city break | San FranciSco
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September 2013
Bay dreams
Bleached Californian sunshine and heavy blankets of fog; hilltop mansions and downmarket barrios; coastal scenery and downtown skyscrapers – San Francisco is a city of contrasts, says filmmaker John Butler. Photographs by Eric Wolfinger.
Possibly the most famous bridge in the world – San Francisco's Golden Gate.
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city break | San FranciSco
t’s something to do with atmosphere, which in turn stems from climate and the way it forms character, but this place is a drug. A decade and a half after I called it home; years after I was supposed to have written it out of me (with a novel called The Tenderloin); after living in cities the world over, I often dream about summer fog grazing hills around the Haight and Twin Peaks, the smell of briny air among the redwoods in Golden
I
Gate Park, bells on the cable cars echoing around the streets of Telegraph Hill. This is a city for which there is no known cure – San Francisco gets right under your skin, and boy does it stay there. It’s now known as the birth place of two Gold Rushes – in 1849, then latterly with the dot com explosion of the mid 1990s, and here, the past collides with the future. Yet despite the wealth
September street party In recent times, The Folsom Street Fair has supplanted Gay Pride, and on September 29, gawkers, tourists and partiers of all shades are welcomed to the largest leather, alternative and fetish street fair in the world – the most raucous street party in San Francisco. Go, even if it isn’t your scene. The atmosphere, food and music draw almost half a million attendees annually to the stretch of Folsom between 7th and 12th Streets; many dressed in leather, rubber, uniforms, drag or in very little at all. folsomstreetfair.com
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Top, picnickers spread their rugs at Dolores Park. Above, 15 years on, John Butler still dreams about summer in San Francisco.
created by Silicon Valley, this city’s romantic spirit seems to resist the homogenising force of that money. Gentrification is occurring, but if it were a food, San Francisco would be a burrito, harmoniously blending local cultural elements to make something that remains relatively casual, beloved of young, rich, old and broke; hipsters, cheerleaders and cholos. And call me a snob, but they don’t make them as good anywhere else. Downtown has most of the hotels and much to recommend it. The Yerba Buena Center (ybca.org) is a gallery and performance space favouring Bay Area artists and has a screening room for curated film and video events. Nearby, the Jewish Museum (thecjm.org) (worth a visit in its own right), is hosting part of the SF MOMA collection, while the latter is closed for refurbishment. Culture aside, the Westfield (westfield.com/ sanfrancisco) is somewhat generic and
A watercolour painting by Róisín O’ Shea © 2012
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city break | San FranciSco
lacking in charm but, with military precision, you can get through your shopping in one day. And on Market Street, there’s the undeniable fun of riding a cable car and a dizzying array of shopping options near Union Square – notably a strip of stores along the TenderNob area at Bush and Jones Street. Hotels at the peak of Nob Hill offer devastating views, while immediately adjacent is one of the largest expatriate Chinese communities, and the Italian neighbourhood of North Beach (home to the nexus of beat poetry, the legendary City Lights, citylights. com, book store). “Downtown” in a good many American cities has shopping, a Chinatown and a bunch of great museums, but running through the heart of California’s more leisurely northern counterpoint to Los Angeles is a profound Mexican influence. The Mission District is a short hop south, where the best galleries, bars and taquerias can be found. I’m not much of a one for tours, but the Mission Dolores (missiondolores.org) is certainly worth visiting. Founded in 1776, it’s the oldest building in San Francisco and a good place to trace the origins of this historic barrio. Afterwards, check out the street murals as you wander around, before stopping by 826 Valencia (826valencia.org) – its Dave Egger’s founded tutoring centre and bookstore is a trove of books and ephemera – or re-caffeinating at fourbarrel café (fourbarrelcoffee.com). Leaving aside Mexican food, there’s a multitude of food options here. A slalom down 24th Street, between Mission and Potrero, offers a day’s worth of terrific food and street life. San Francisco gives good breakfast, but nowhere better than St Francis Fountain (stfrancisfountainsf. com), serving all manner of scrambles, 76 |
September 2013
Street life – art spills out of the Mission District's galleries. Above, Anthony Holdsworth at work on 24th Street. Below, 826 Valencia, the McSweeney's bookstore.
Eat at … HiP Billed as a wine country experience in the city, Press club is a subterranean, oak-lined barrestaurant right next door to the Jewish Museum and offers tasting menus from all the best regional wineries, paired with local food. Waiters are starched, pressed, friendly and knowledgeable. An oasis from the bustle of downtown SF and a great alternative to the drive up to Napa. (20 Yerba Buena Lane, +1 415 744 5000; pressclubsf.com) LocaL It’s always open to dispute, but money’s on the Chile Verde pork burrito from Papalote – a justly lauded taqueria, whose less-busy sister branch is in
the Western Addition. House salsa is made with roasted tomatoes; chicken mole or fish tacos are divine, and you can be seated and sated for $10. (3409 24th Street, +1 415 970 8815) atMoSPHere red’s Java House is a distinctly downmarket recommendation but there’s more to eating than poking at elegantly stacked towers of julienned fennel. This shack in the shadow of the Bay Bridge offers hot-dogs, burgers in fresh sourdough rolls, onion rings and beers. Everything is flamegrilled, the beer is Bud, fries are pre-salted and come in paper cups, and you eat on lawn chairs in the back yard, right on the water, where the smell of brine and gulls wheeling overhead add to the atmosphere. (Pier 30, Bryant and Embarcadero)
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Titanic Belfast速 extends over nine galleries, with multiple dimensions to the exhibition, drawing together special effects, dark rides, full-scale reconstructions and innovative interactive features to explore the Titanic story in a fresh and insightful way; from her conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through her construction and launch, to her infamous maiden voyage and catastrophic demise. The journey goes beyond the aftermath of the sinking, to the discovery of the wreck and continues into the present day with a live undersea exploration centre. Housed in an architecturally spectacular building on the very slipways where she was built in the heart of Belfast, Northern Ireland. For tickets and summer event schedule visit: titanicbelfast.com
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city break | San FranciSco
Humphry Slocombe's retro ice cream parlour, left; right, coffee purist's dream at Fourbarrel café, and below, shopper's delight, Unionmade.
omelettes and vegan favourites, along with more typical breakfasts, all for under $10. For lunch, Mission Local Eatery (localmissioneatery. com) serves the best pulled pork sandwiches for $9 and terrific homemade melon aqua fresca. Right across the street, Humphry Slocombe (humphryslocombe.com) is a treasure offering exotic flavour ice cream (“Jesus Juice” – Coke and red wine), while Dynamo Donuts (dynamodonut.com) make boutique donuts (including Earl Grey flavour). Taqueria San Francisco (taqueriazorro.com) and Casa
Drink at ... HiStory Along with its counterpart Vesuvio’s across the street, Specs in North Beach is filled with colourful locals and interesting memorabilia pertaining to the heyday of beat poetry. Both of these Columbus Avenue institutions have for decades encouraged conversation and community with cheap drinks and a warm welcome. (12 Saroyan Place, +1 415 421 4112)
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beer toronado is a beer bar and has remained reassuringly pure on those terms in the two decades since opening. An impressive selection of beers on tap from around the globe can be paired with Rosamunde’s sausages from next door. That duo might be considered another SF institution. (547 Haight, +1 415 863 2267; toronado.com)
neiGHboUrHooD Gino and carlo, an ItalianAmerican bar has little more to recommend it than atmosphere – and what’s more important? This month it’s the place to watch a Giants game, in the company of a no-nonsense clientele. Great pizza slices at Golden Boy a few doors away. (548 Green Street, +1 415 421 0896; ginoandcarlo.com)
Sanchez (casa-sanchez. com) hold their own for traditional Mexican fare and, between snacks, thrift stores abound. If it’s hot you can take lunch to the picturesque Dolores Park, and by night, local bars such as the Make-Out Room (makeoutroom.com) and the Lone Palm have earned their great reputation. Street cars will also transport you to the Castro – celebrated as the global headquarters of the gay community. Whether you’re a tourist, a friend of Dorothy or even just a friend-of-a-friend, it’s worth a visit. Along with historical significance and the vibrant street life, there’s great shopping here, most notably at Unionmade (unionmadegoods.com) on Sanchez Street. In the evening, take an outside table at Café Flore (cafeflore. com) for drinks and people watching. You can watch a movie at the terrific independent Castro cinema (castrotheatre.com) (with live organ player), stroll across to the Twin Peaks Tavern (twinpeakstavern.com), or head on over to Haight-Ashbury, one valley away. The final resting place of the 1960s counterculture is much diminished but still worth a visit for access to the beauty of Golden Gate Park (golden-gate-park.com). It (like most of the best neighbourhoods) is directly linked to downtown by a network of buses, cable cars and subway trains. Beneath HaightAshbury, Hayes Valley a few short years ago was a less-than-savoury, somewhat desolate strip of housing projects and a freeway on-ramp.
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city break | San FranciSco
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5 classic things to do ...
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AlcAtrAz Like a ride on the cable cars, Alcatraz is one of the most popular attractions in this town that also happens to be well worth experiencing. Because of its enduring popularity, you should book well in advance, possibly even before you arrive in the city. The tour takes about two hours and costs about $20, and it’s well worth renting the audio guide. My favourite part? When they lock you in a cell and describe Christmas on “The Rock” and the sound of revellers in the city drifts over the water. Almost makes you want to do some time – almost. (alcatraz.us) FishermAn’s WhArF I tried, I really did. But you can’t get through a review of this city without mentioning The Wharf and Pier 39, and seeing how you have to go here to catch the ferry to Alcatraz, then I should mention that as tourist ghettos go it’s not particularly gaudy and many of the old cannery buildings have been re-fitted to accommodate the tat. The only thing worth eating down here is a burger from the legendary Californian chain, In-N-Out Burger, now open within the Cannery building itself. sF cAble cArs Sometimes you have to damn the coolerthan-thou recommendations and embrace the tourist experience: nowhere more so than with SF
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It has now been remodelled and converted into a shopping hub for local brand names and a beautiful open-air park runs through the centre. Galleries, clothes in Alzes, Backspace (backspacesf.com) and Thread Lounge (threadlounge.com), Zonal (zonalhome.com) for antiques, Bulo (buloshoes.com) for shoes and Bibliohead (bibliohead.com) for books – I’d give this strip a few hours. When you’re hungry, there’s a great Jewish deli in Moishe’s Pippic and terrific coffee throughout. Quite apart from all the attractions contained within the city limits, San Francisco is a terrific base for exploring the surrounding areas. A three-dollar, 30-minute train ride deposits you at the liberal hub of Berkeley, but if you rent a car, a short spin north over the iconic Golden Gate Bridge lands you in Sausalito, Muir Woods and its centuries-old Redwood trees, or the
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beaches and towns on the North West Marin county coast. Continue on north and within hours you can reach the hot springs of Calistoga, while due east lies the Ansel Adams splendour of Yosemite National Park (yosemitepark.com) and the Napa Valley vineyards. In winter, Lake Tahoe (visitinglaketahoe.com) has terrific slopes for snowboarding (you could ski, but for once you’ll be in a minority), and year-round gambling, either on the lakeside or in Reno, “the biggest little city in the world”.
cable cars. A fun and historic way to transport yourself from Union Square and Market Street to the Wharf, or along California Street, over the steep hills. Seeing the bay gradually reveal itself beneath you as you crest these hills is a moment to remember. Tickets are $5 each way, one day passes $13. house oF nAnking I can already hear locals sneering at the inclusion of this best-known of Chinese restaurants, right across from Francis Coppola’s historic Zoetrope building. But it’s still worth braving the lines, or going a little early. For goodness sake, though, allow the legendary proprietor to order for you, as he likes to do. Once, I didn’t let him to do that, and after selecting my main course he shot me a withering look. “As an order, out of ten? I give that a five”. (919 Kearny Street, +1 415 421 1429) A WAlk Across golden gAte bridge/ A boAt Around the bAy Both these recommendations come as one because the idea is simply to engage with the romance and splendour of the famous bridge. The walk across it to the Marin side and back takes an hour and offers great views of the headland. Boats under the bridge/around the bay run from Fisherman’s Wharf, are offered by a number of companies and cost around $20 for an hour.
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Opposite page, to the east lies the splendour of Yosemite National Park. Above, Marie Abe and Alex Pasternak tune up outside Tartine Bakery and, right, joggers against the backdrop of Alcatraz.
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city break | San FranciSco
Stay at ...
ILLUSTRATION by KEvIN WALdRON
PoSH The Mark Hopkins is a downtown, upmarket classic. Cable cars trundle by the front door; the Top of the Mark lounge has a devastating view of both bridges and the bay; décor and service are old-school and elegant. (999 California Street, +1 415 392 3434; ichotelsgroup.com; prices run from a decent $230 per night) HiP As far as hotel brands go, W is one of the more recognisable – synonymous with high budget “spaces” and lobbies of almost impenetrable darkness – and this one is conveniently located in SOMA (South of Market). If you like your hotels like nightclubs, this is the one for you. (181 3rd Street, +1 415 777 5300; starwoodhotels.com; rooms from $350 per night) centraL Although the design inside Hotel triton is by Philippe Starck, the haughty attitude you might expect from a hotel with lobby seating that resembles orange juicers is absent. This hotel is right at the gates to Chinatown, a stone’s throw from Union Square, and with a terrific French brasserie immediately adjacent. (342 Grant Avenue, +1 415 394 0500; hoteltriton.com; rooms from $240 a night).
Within this small, accessible city, the hills contain a multitude of contrasts: bleached Californian sunshine and heavy blankets of fog; hilltop mansions in Pacific Heights and downmarket barrios in the flatlands; coastal scenery and beautiful beaches a matter of miles from the skyscrapers of downtown. In some quarters, San Francisco resembles a tastefully assembled amusement park; cable cars rattling up and down hills, garishly painted Victorian houses, parks on hilltops and multifarious cultures drinking organic “third wave” coffee and skating, surfing, cycling around in the shadow of a golden bridge. And some of the things that most vex locals make San Francisco the best place to visit, particularly in September. Even in summer, in the city, days of dawn-to-dusk Californian sunshine are irregular, but not for me all that tramping around hot streets slathered in sun cream, dutifully ticking off sights and secretly wishing I was basting by the hotel pool. Besides, the fog 82 |
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is atmospheric, shrouding the city in gauze that calls to mind Hitchcock’s Vertigo and the Marlowe stories of Raymond Chandler. Perhaps the highest compliment I can pay it is to say that San Francisco is not a serious place. Unlike London, New York or Paris, it seems not to run on the oxygen of moneymaking. There’s a Financial District here, of course there is, and as in Ireland the reality of an economic downturn is present, but like other major cities such as Sydney, Berlin and Barcelona, the defining and sometimes obsessive pursuit of residents here seems not to be money so much as the perfect lifestyle; what you do when you’re not working is what appears to be important – and that atmosphere is infectious. John's debut feature The Stag stars Andrew Scott and Amy Huberman, and world premieres at the Toronto International Film Festival on September 10 (tiff.net).
Retro signage, above, and right, sharp interiors at the W hotel.
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Ups and
Downs Cycling the South Downs Way in Sussex can be done in a day if you’re a bike enthusiast. But Sophie Davies takes a leisurely four days to pedal the historic trail and enjoy the peace of glorious countryside and quaint villages. Photographs by Emily Mott.
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Fields of gold – yellow rapeseed in fine contrast with welcome blue skies on the South Downs.
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Adventure | South downS wAy
he South Downs Way is a glorious, 160-kilometre trail through a national park, stretching westwards from the seaside town of Eastbourne to the historic city of Winchester. It follows an ancient path, past Iron Age hill forts, ageold Yew forests and Bronze Age burial grounds. And it boasts some quite spectacular views, across wide, open farmland, passing castles and picture-perfect Downland villages, with thatched pubs and quaint tearooms to stop at on the way. Our adventure begins outside the Cavendish Hotel on Eastbourne’s seafront, one-time Victorian holiday resort built by the Seventh Duke of Devonshire, William Cavendish, who appointed his architect to plan the layout of the entire town.
t
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Eastbourne has retained much of this early Victorian grandeur, with white stucco buildings, a wrought-iron pier and wide, un-littered roads. It also has a spanking new contemporary art gallery, the Towner. Joining the South Downs Way at Paradise Road to the northwest of town, a climb takes you up, high above the grey-roofed skyline, looking out across the sea. This first half-day’s cycling is a gentle warm-up for the often challenging route ahead and dips down first into the pretty village of Jevington (whose surprising claim to fame is as the birthplace of Banoffi Pie), before heading up and over the top of Windover Hill and down into Alfriston in time for lunch. This medieval village boasts a fine green and is home to a rare
Left, Litlington Tea Gardens, just outside Alfriston. Below, Sophie Davies saddles up in Lewes. Bottom, Eastbourne Pier at sunset.
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save for a rainy day No one comes to Ireland for the weather. They come for the world-class hiking, biking and other outdoorsy stuff that’s in abundance here. And in the right gear, you won’t even notice the rain. So if it’s adventure you’re looking for, drop into the Great Outdoors just off Grafton Street. We’ll outfit you with everything you need. We’ve been doing it for 36 years so you’ll be in good hands. We can even give you advice on where to go walking.
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Adventure | South downS wAy
14th-century Wealden hall house (bought in 1896 by the National Trust for just £10). The High Street is lined with antique shops and timber-framed pubs seemingly unchanged since the reign of King Edward III. Keen readers should head to the village’s award-winning independent bookstore Much Ado Books. Its owners, Nash Robbins and Cate Olson, are Americans who fell in love with the area and moved here from Boston ten years ago. Their shop has built up quite a following, hosting talks and reading groups on the first floor. “There is no place like the South Downs. We pinch ourselves,” Robbins says. “We are always struck by the number of artists, novelists and musicians who live in the area or come to visit, and felt this place was just right for what we hoped to do.” This part of East Sussex has strong literary and artistic connections, and was a one-time country retreat of the London-based Bloomsbury Set (the group of 20th-century artists, writers and free-thinkers remembered as much today for their art as for their convoluted love lives). You can take a cultural detour from the South Downs Way here, striking out along a wide, chalk path known as Old Coach Road. First stop St Michael and All Angels Church in Berwick, to see murals painted by Duncan Grant and Vanessa Bell, two founding Bloomsbury Set members who settled nearby. Back on the Old Coach Road heading west you arrive at Charleston Farmhouse, their former home. This they filled with art and their circle of Bohemian friends, painting the interior in a distinct, decorative style which is so evocative of the time. 88 |
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Above and left, outside and inside the decorative St Michael and All Angels Church. Below, Much Ado Books. Far left, Charleston Farmhouse.
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Adventure | South downS wAy
A tough uphill climb to the top of Firle Beacon takes you back onto the main South Downs Way and a smooth and speedy stretch along the ridge with views south towards Newhaven and the sea. From here, it is down into Rodmell where Bell’s sister, the writer Virginia Woolf, lived. You can visit her home, Monk’s House, a pretty 17thcentury, weather-boarded cottage now owned by the National Trust. Allison Pritchard, the property manager here, tells us so-called “Woolfies” can spend the night here in the studio, though it is popular and books up a year in advance. From Rodmell the path climbs once more following Juggs Road, an age-old track once used to carry fish from Brighton to Lewes market. There is something deeply resonant about following paths trod for hundreds, perhaps thousands, of years. Flying along on a state-of-theart mountain bike you can’t help but reflect on how much harder the going must have been back then. Visitors head to the hip and historic market town of Lewes today not so much for fish but to visit the castle, wander round the many boutique and antique shops, hang out in cafés and drink in the town’s distinctly Boho vibe. We suffered a series of setbacks
Left, ye olde tracks make for an evocative cycle. Below, Virginia Woolf's shed cum studio at Monk's House. Bottom, smart interiors at the gorgeous Georgian property, Hotel du Vin in Winchester.
Sleep at ... While there is plenty of accommodation to choose from along the South Downs Way, annual events such as Charleston Literary Festival (charleston.org.uk), Glyndebourne Opera season (glyndebourne.com) and at Goodwood (goodwood.com. uk) put pressure on bookings so it is worth planning well in advance. Check out, too, when fundraisers such as the South Downs Trailwalker take place. For a list, go to nationaltrail.co.uk. BudGet Numerous
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campsites along the trail include Pleasant rise Farm (+44 1323 870 545; pleasantrise-farm.co.uk), Buncton Manor Farm (+44 1903 812 736; bunctonmanor.supanet. com), with yurts at Meon Springs (+44 1730 823 794; meonsprings.com). B&B Photographer Emily Mott and I stayed overnight in Rodmell at 1 rodmell house (+44 1273 479 620) from £35 per night, and at deep thatch Cottage (+44 1273 477 086; deepthatchcottage. co.uk) from £75 per night.
the Barn at Penfolds (+44 1798 831 496; thebarnatpenfolds. co.uk) in Bury is a wonderfully comfortable B&B with warm and welcoming hosts, from £55 to £85 per night. upper Parsonage Farm (+44 1730 823 490; upperparsonagefarm.co.uk) in East Meon charges from £95 per night. BLow out Sleep in style at Pelham house (+44 1273 488 600; pelhamhouse.com) in Lewes, with prices from
£85 to £280 per night. Sink into a four-poster bed in the lavish surroundings of a 900-year-old castle at Amberley Castle hotel (+44 1798 831 992; amberleycastle.co.uk), from £315 to £680 per night. We stayed at winchester’s hotel du vin (+44 844 748 9267; hotelduvin.com), £165 to £255 per night.
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Adventure | South downS wAy
Highlights High points along the route are, quite literally, Ditchling Beacon (248m above sea level), South Harting Down (221m) and Butser Hill (270m) from where the views, on a sunny day, are panoramic. Historic stop-offs include Lewes Castle (sussexpast.co.uk), Arundel Castle (arundelcastle. org), Bignor Roman Villa (bignorromanvilla.co.uk), Winchester Cathedral (winchester-cathedral. org.uk) and The Great Hall, home to fabled King Arthur’s Round Table which hangs here on the wall (hants.gov.uk/greathall).
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Below, cows spotted grazing from Juggs Road. Right, the girls' knight in shining Lycra takes leave after having fixed their broken bikes. Below, break time.
after Lewes, with three punctures in quick succession and a broken bicycle chain. Stranded on a hillside halfway to Ditchling Beacon which at 248 Beacon, metres above sea level is not only the highest point in East Sussex but also the remotest part of the trip, we learned some important lessons – namely the importance of carrying spare parts and a repair kit, of which we had neither, and of possessing some basic bicycle maintenance skills. We were rescued by a knight in shining Lycra who thundered down the hill towards us. He stopped, rummaged in his rucksack, fixed the chain and we were off. The South Downs Way is a wellpedalled path for serious cyclists like our hero, charging from Winchester to Eastbourne in a day. The record time to complete the trail is an unofficial seven hours and 50 minutes – some even go there and back in a day. This feat of endurance is dubbed the South Downs Double, which is all the more remarkable when you consider the total climb of 4,150 metres each way. We allowed ourselves a leisurely four days with plenty of time for stop-offs. Anthony Begg, founder of cycling website bikedowns.co.uk, says: “People underestimate the South Downs Way. They think it’s going to be easy but it isn’t – it’s equivalent to cycling up Snowdon four times.” Our route is dotted with long barrows and tumuli – ancient burial september 2013
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Eat at … One of the wonderful things about the South Downs Way is that, while it can feel very remote, the nearest village (and therefore pub) is generally only a couple of miles away. Travelling east to west as we did, Alfriston boasts historic the George Inn (+44 1323 870 319; thegeorge-alfriston.com) and the Star (+44 1323 870 495; thestaralfriston.co.uk) both serving up hearty lunches. the ram Inn (+44 1273 858 222; raminn.co.uk) in the flint-clad hamlet of Firle is well worth a detour and overnight stay if your itinerary allows. Visitors in Rodmell head to the Abergavenny Arms (+44 1273 472 416, abergavennyarms.com) for a warm welcome and good pub grub. At Pyecombe,
grounds dating back to the Bronze Age. The next stop is the steep chalk hill of Ditchling Beacon, the site of one of several Iron Age hill forts. Cycle on and there are more to be found at Devil’s Dyke valley and at Chactonbury Ring, a sacred and mysterious place said to be haunted. Cissbury Ring, spread across 60 acres and the largest such hill fort in Sussex, can also be viewed from here. Later in the journey, the route passes a group of five Bronze Age mounds called Devil’s Jumps and it is worth parking your bike here to take a closer look. Old Winchester Hill, 18 kilometres outside the city, is another imposing hill-top fort. The pretty thatched village of Amberley marks the halfway point of the trip. From here, the wildflower-lined path, until now chalky, turns harder and flintier. It becomes more shaded, too, and 94 |
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entering areas of woodland brings welcome respite from the heat and, on more blustery days, shelter from wind and rain. We cycled 160 kilometres in glorious sunshine but South Downs veterans we passed told of a very different story, when biting winds tear along the ridge. The final leg of the journey takes you to the top of Butser Hill, 270 metres above sea level and the highest point along the Downs. From here the going becomes gentler, the hills rolling rather than steep and the landscape altogether cosier, dotted with farmsteads and crisscrossing country roads. The rivers
Main, halfway through the trail, a view of Bury. Above, The Shepherd's Hut at The Barn at Penfold's is small but perfectly formed accommodation. Right, the river at Meon Springs.
the Plough (+44 1273 842 796; theploughpyecombe. co.uk) is a good stop-off. Further on, the buzzy Downland village of Steyning boasts the Chequer Inn (+44 1903 814 437; chequerinnsteyning. co.uk), while in Amberley, the Bridge Inn (+44 1798 831 619; bridgeinnamberley. com) offers locally-sourced, homemade food. At Graffham, the Foresters Arms Inn (+44 1798 867 202; forestersgraffham.co.uk) has a delicious-looking menu, or stop off at the Bluebell at Cocking (+44 1730 810 200; thebluebell.biz) nearby. On the final stretch, the Five Bells at Buriton (+44 1730 263 584; fivebellsburiton.co.uk) is a favourite stop with cyclists and walkers. Spot mountain bikes parked outside the Shoe Inn at Exton (+44 1489 877 526; theshoeinn.moonfruit.com theshoeinn.moonfruit.com). Arriving in Winchester, the Black Boy pub (+44 1962 861 754; theblackboypub.com sits theblackboypub.com), opposite Michelin-starred restaurant the Black rat (+44 1962 844 465; theblackrat.co.uk theblackrat.co.uk).
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Adventure | South downS wAy
Direct trains run from Gatwick Airport to Eastbourne every 30 minutes. The journey takes just under one hour, though you are not allowed to take mountain bikes on trains travelling through London or Brighton at peak travel times. Go to southernrailway.com for up-to-date information. You can hire bikes for £39.95 for one day, £74.95 for one week, through Walk & Cycle (walkandcycle.co.uk), which also organises bag transfers and supported cycling holidays. You may also find the following websites useful when planning your trip: bikedowns.co.uk (offering an insider’s guide to what to expect from the route); the official National Trail website (nationaltrail.co.uk); southdownsdiscovery.com (for suggested itineraries, baggage transfers, etc); visitengland.com (the English tourist board's website with a guide to approved places to stay).
Itchen and Meon meander through the valley here and we passed idyllic fly-fishing scenes at Meon Springs. Press on and you can picnic at the top of Beacon Hill, one of a number of nature reserves along the South Downs Way. Up here, the sense of space and peace is hard to define but is wonderfully restorative and calming to the mind. From now on, it is a gentle downward slope – the ever increasing hum of the M3 a reminder that reality is just a few miles away. Entering Winchester from the east, the South Downs Way comes to a halt at City Mill on the banks of the River Itchen at the bottom of Broadway, the main shopping street. Tradition has it that if you head for the Hospital of St Cross and Almshouse of Noble Poverty and knock at the Porter’s Gate (which today doubles as the entrance to its gift shop) you will be given Wayfarer’s Dole of beer and 96 |
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ILLUSTRATION BY ANNA SIMMONS
And finally …
bread, said to be England's oldest form of charity, dating back almost 900 years. This signalled the end of our 160-kilometre journey. Exhausted, exhilarated, dusty and slightly sunburned, we checked into the city’s swanky Hotel du Vin,, washed, changed and headed to Michelin-starred restaurant The Black Rat to celebrate. Here we dined in splendid style on seared scallops, black pudding crumble, pickled apple puree and the like, with lemon verbena parfait and beech leaf sorbet for pudding – all utterly delicious. We toasted our endeavours, declared this our best dinner ever, before heading for our hotel rooms and straight to bed. Aer LInGuS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, KNOCK AND BELFAST TO London GAtwICK DAILY.
Left, Michelinstarred fuel, rest and relaxation at The Black Rat restaurant in Winchester, whose Tandoori-rubbed buffalo shin fillet, clay baked spuds and buffalo cheese, below, were a hit.
The National Cathedral of Saint Patrick Dublin
Open Daily For Visitors phone: 01 4539472 | web: stpatrickscathedral.ie
Spotlight | chill-out zoneS
Lake Como has never looked so good – the view from the comfort of Grand Hotel Tremezzo's T Spa.
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5 BEST SPAS As summer melts into autumn, Lucy White slips into a fluffy robe to reveal some of the world’s most luxurious spas. Hibernation has never felt so good.
T Spa at Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Lake Como
Italy is all about romance, and no less so than at Grand Hotel Tremezzo. It positively oozes amore; an Art Nouveau palace with 20,000 square metres of centuryold, stuff-of-fairytales parkland. So it’s no surprise that it lavishes attention on couples in its T Spa. Their private suite for two couldn’t be more aphrodisiacal than if Venus herself was in repose in its whirlpool tub. It also houses a Turkish bath, sauna, day bed and garden. Loveydovey types can also hire out the spa after hours (from €200). By day, the indoor-to-outdoors infinity pool and solarium has pinch-me views of Lake Como, Bellagio and the Grigne mountains. By night, one can whisper sweet nothings in total privacy but for the twinkling of stars, the bubbles of one of five Jacuzzis, and the sparkle of champagne flutes. Singletons need not miss out either: the spa menu includes the world’s best beauty know-how sourced from east to west – and those lakeside views are for everyone. Signature treatments start at €220. Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Via Provinciale Regina, 8, 22019, Tremezzo Province of Como, Italy, +39 034 442 491; grandhoteltremezzo.com
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Spotlight | chill-out zoneS
Monart, Co Wexford Just arriving at Monart is enough to lower the blood pressure. Set among 48 hectares of lush wood and lake land, the spa alone covers a whopping 2,400 square metres; a utopia of fluffy white robes, ambient lighting, thermal suites, indoor and outdoor saunas, hydrotherapy pools, a hammam, and VOYA and Pevonia Botanica products. In one relaxation room, circular mounted seats, pictured, are so comfy and reassuringly womb-like you won’t ever want to leave, while complimentary studio classes, from Swiss ball to aqua aerobics, are for the less sedentary among us. Accommodation at this selfappointed “spa destination” includes luxurious timber chalets as well as rooms in the original Georgian mansion. But you don’t have to be a resident to enjoy Monart’s treats – day packages start at €65. Meanwhile, Zen won’t ever be shattered by screaming, splashing children – this is an adults-only wonderland.
The Autumn Regeneration package (until October 31; Winter Regeneration November 1 to December 31) costs €235 and includes two nights B&B, one dinner, one treatment and unrestricted access to the thermal suite. Monart, The Still, Enniscorthy, Co Wexford, Ireland, 053 923 8999; monart.ie
ESPA Life at The Corinthia, London
Polished chrome and pewter. Calacatta and black Italian marble. Flickering fireplaces. Could a spa be any sexier? Opened to much fanfare in 2011, ESPA Life remains one of London’s premiere oases, its 3,300 square metres across three floors undulating with soft contours and reflective surfaces. It’s not just style over substance either, the indulgent massages, facials and scrubs enhanced by detox and lifestyle programmes to help aid sleep, weight loss and fitness rehabilitation. You get what you pay for here; anyone booking a treatment exceeding three hours gains full access to the thermal suite, including pool, hammam, amphitheatre sauna, steam room and ice fountain. Elsewhere, shabby nails can be gussied up in the Nail Studio, hairdressing is by Daniel Galvin, naturopathy by Max Tomlinson and personal training by Stephen Price.
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The “Summer Essentials” Day Spa package costs £350 and includes a scrub, massage, facial, manicure or pedicure, full access to the thermal floor and a two-course lunch. Valid until September 30. The Corinthia, Whitehall Place, London, +44 20 7321 3050; espalifeatcorinthia. com
VISIT THE WATERFORD CRYSTAL FACTORY
A magical journey through 200 years of crystal making history. Book your tour online today www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Guided Factory Tour | Opulent Retail Store | The World’s largest collection of Waterford Crystal House of Waterford Crystal | The Mall, Waterford City, Ireland P +353 (0)51 317 000 | E houseofwaterfordcrystal@wwrd.com | W www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
Join us on
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Spotlight | chill-out zoneS
Explore Spa at Le Méridien Ra Beach Hotel & Spa, Catalonia If you like champagne and sunsets with your spa, then Le Méridien Ra Beach Hotel is nirvana. Located on eight kilometres of Catalonian coastline, just 50 kilometres southwest of Barcelona, this beachfront property is not only perfectly situated but is superstylish and boasts one of the biggest spas in Europe. Size does matters here, its choice of Ayurvedic and Thalassotherapy treatments complementing its La Prairie, Vichy and signature offerings. That the Explore Spa has three bars (!) and a
Thalasso sundeck – complete with double cocoon beds – overlooking the Mediterranean gives it the edge over other more earnest, or sequestered, wellness centres. Spa packages start at €140, full-day “Experiences” from €270. And when not lolling on a sunbed, stroking your newly exfoliated/wrapped/massaged limbs, there are wineries, a marine reserve and Sitges to explore nearby. There are also three self-catering apartment options, while the pretty pool and dining area has “wedding” written all over it.
The Peninsula Spa, New York Summer may be on the wane, but in New York City, September can still be warm – which makes The Peninsula’s spa super-cool. Spanning 250 square metres, its rooftop terrace has enviable views of Manhattan, its plump sun loungers the source of a moral dilemma: to fizzle here, or use the state-of-theart gym …? The spa’s pool shares the same spectacular panorama, Alexandra Champalimaud’s luxe interiors – handmade wooden chairs, bamboo and teak floors, and a 24-carat-gold mosaic – in earthy contrast with the urban vista. As ESPA’s flagship US spa, it offers several treatments by the brand, but also Biologique Recherche facials and Ayurvedic options. Each treatment starts with a tea ceremony and foot ritual, while the Relaxation Room has cosy, cocoon-like screened beds.
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The spa is open to all hotel guests and day spa clients booking a minimum two-hour treatment. “Retreat” spa-only packages start at $690. The Peninsula, 700 Fifth Avenue at 55th Street, New York, +1 212 956 2888; peninsula.com
AeR linguS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO MilAn (MAlpenSA), lonDon, BARcelonA AND neW YoRK DAILY. FOR FULL FLIGHT INFO, VISIT AERLINGUS.COM.
For up-to-date B&B and spa packages, visit the website below. Le Méridien Ra Beach Hotel & Spa, Avinguda Sanatori 1, El Vendrell, 43880, Spain, +34 977 694 200; lemeridienra.es
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BEING THERE | MANCHESTER
Eat at …
48 hours in
Manchester
The world’s first industrial city, in north-west England, is now the definition of cool – its reinvention marked with hip hotels, bars, restaurants and shops, as Lucy White discovers. Sleep at ...
Anticlockwise from top left, The Midland's magnifique restaurant, The French; duplex rooms at Great John Street; the sun shines on the Rainy City's Piccadilly Gardens; the delectable Velvet hotel on Canal Street.
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Manchester has a broad variety of hotels to suit all pockets and tastes, from five-star fancies to pub B&Bs. STYLISH Just off the beaten track, Great John Street (Great John Street, +44 161 831 3211; eclectichotels. co.uk) is a Victorian schoolhouse transformed into a stylish hotel of 30 individually designed duplex suites. Bathtubs are freestanding, toiletries organic, breakfasts hearty, cocktails fabulous – and there’s a hot tub on the roof terrace, so bring your togs. Rooms from £106.80. RACY Malmaison (1 Gore Street, +44 161 278 1000; malmaison.com) can always be relied upon for urban oases across the UK, and Manchester’s outpost is no exception. It is also rather risqué: Robert Mapplethorpestyle photography lurks in hallways, lighting is nightclub-dark, and there’s in-room massage oil. Meat lovers will dig the restaurant’s oak-smoked steaks and MalBurgers, while breakfasts combine a buffet and à la carte. Rooms from £119. PARTY Night owls will love Velvet (2 Canal Street, +44 161 236 9003; velvetmanchester.com). A bar and restaurant prior to 2009, the grand dame of Manchester’s Gay Village is also a 19-room hotel, whose clubbing packages put revellers in rooms above the bar so that light-sleepers can unwind in the upper storeys. Décor is New York loft chic and there are Ren treats in bathrooms. Rooms from £75.
Reflecting its multiculturalism, Manchester’s dining scene is wonderfully diverse – there’s Chinatown and Curry Mile, south of the city centre in Rusholme, in addition to chichi restaurants. UPSCALE If The French doesn’t win a Michelin star, I’ll eat my pork pie hat – its executive chef Simon Rogan already has two at Cumbria’s L’Enclume and he’s working the same magic at The Midland Hotel (Peter Street, +44 161 236 3333; the-french. co.uk). Expect thoroughly modern British cuisine, and a surprisingly informal atmosphere thanks to convivial service staff. Three courses £27; six courses £55; ten courses £79. HIPSTER The brainchild of local burger joint Almost Famous, Luck Lust Liquor & Burn (100102 High Street, +161 832 8644; lucklustliquorburn.com) may not trip easily off the tongue – but it sure tickles the taste buds. Purveyors of CalMex, LLLB’s dishes are as kitsch as the Americana décor, with names such as Bikini Hottie and Best Damn Bacon Roll in Little Mexico. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. COMFORTING Carb haters look away: Bakerie, below, (43-45 Lever Street, Northern Quarter, +44 161 236 9014; bakerie.co.uk) is a must visit. Part bakery, part wine bar, this yeast-loving operation inclusively offers vegan, as well as gluten- and dairy-free options. It also runs next door’s Pie & Ale, whose freshly made pies are paired with the choice of six micro-brewed draught beers.
WHITWORTH ART GALLERY/jOEL CHESTER FILDES
Left, contemporary cultural hub, The Whitworth Art Gallery. Clockwise from right, all in the Northern Quarter – menswear boutique Oi Polloi, chirpy street art, and Manchester Craft & Design Centre.
Drink at …
The city centre has every kind of watering hole, from dad pubs to wine bars to cocktail clubs. (Hot tip: Head to buzzy suburb Chorlton for craft beers and insanely cheap cocktails at The Font Bar). QUIRKY The Oast House (The Avenue Courtyard, Spinningfields, Crown Square, +44 161 829 3830; theoasthouse.uk.com) really does resemble an old hop kiln – except it is as new as the glassy office towers that dwarf it. Totally faux but it totally works, moreover, it serves cocklewarming bites such as charcuterie and Ploughman’s boards, and also hosts craft beer and ale tastings. Great outdoor space too. LIVELY Italian-American style bar and restaurant du jour SoLita (Turner Street, +44 161 839 2200; solita.co.uk) has atmosphere in droves – and great cocktails. While its drinks menu is not particularly extensive, the herbinfused gin of Rosemary’s Ruin and the zesty tequila undercurrents of Don Mermelade are worth a goo. ECLECTIC Cocktails are a USP at The Alchemist (3 Hardman Street, Spinningfields and 1 New York Street; thealchemist.uk.com), whose concoctions are more experimental than the usual mojitos – for instance, the Flower Sour is a beguiling mix of gin, lavender foam and rose and violet liqueur. Also serves gastro-pub cuisine, and there are heated outdoor terraces.
Shop at ...
COOL The Northern Quarter has always been a hub for Manchester’s indie kids but now it’s at the height of its hipster powers. There’s menswear boutique Oi Polloi (63 Thomas Street, +44 161 831 7870; oipolloi.com), fantastic gift shop cum vegetarian café Oklahoma (74-76 High Street, +44 161 834 1136) and unique pieces at the Manchester Craft & Design Centre (17 Oak Street, +44 161 832 4274; craftanddesign.com), which houses 19 working studio boutiques – and whose patron is Elbow’s Guy Garvey. POSH Cleverly reconstructed after the 1996 IRA bombing, Exchange Square is where high street and luxury brands meet, its Arndale and The Triangle shopping centres brushing up against Selfridges and Harvey Nichols. Its sunny aspect and amphitheatre setting – and pubs The Oyster Bar and The Wellington – attract big crowds in summer. CULTURAL Manchester has a wealth of museums and art galleries, which also have excellent shops. So if you happen to be visiting the big three – Whitworth Art Gallery (though closed this month), Manchester Museum and Manchester Art Gallery – don’t leave without a print of your favourite artwork, a coffee table book or locally produced artisanal textiles.
AER LINGUS HAS INCREASED ITS FREQUENCY FROM DUBLIN TO MANCHESTER, NOW FLYING FIVE TIMES DAILY. AER LINGUS FLIES FROM CORK TWICE DAILY, AND FROM SHANNON DAILY.
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MONAGHAN’S
CASHMERE STORE Established 1960
“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide
Mr. Tom Monaghan
A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom Monaghan in his store in Dublin’s Royal Hibernian Way. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere and has been in business for over 50 years, selling a wide range of classic cashmere in the latest styles and colours for both men and women. As it is the year of The Gathering, if your family name is Monaghan, Tom would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on the horizon tax free card for all non-eu residents. (Terms & Conditions apply)
M Monaghan’s Cashmere, Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451
www.monaghanscashmere.ie
KIDS GO FREE!
COURTESY OF THE AGO
Torontonians say that TrINITY BELLWooDS PArK is the back yard for everyone who doesn’t have a back yard. It’s a great place to hang out and people watch, amenities include three-ball diamonds, eight tennis courts, two volleyball courts, a picnic area, a wading pool and a children’s playground. (Park starts at Strachan and Queen; trinitybellwoods.ca).
An insider’s guide to
The ArT GALLErY oF oNTArIo (317 Dundas Street West, +1 416 979 6648; ago.net) houses an extensive collection of Canadian art, notably works by the Group of Seven, from 1920-1933, and also has the largest collection of public works by British sculptor Henry Moore. And check out the David Bowie exhibit from September 25 to November 27.
Toronto
Cork-born UX designer Linn Vizard shares her favourite haunts in the Canadian city of Toronto.
THE LANSDoWNE CoNE (659 Lansdowne Avenue, +1 647 228 3300; thelansdownecone.com) is a wonderful, independent ice-cream parlour. I always have pistachio almond crunch and chocolate but, for the more adventurous, there are delights such as Birthday Cake, and Tiger Tail (orange and liquorice).
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN CHAN / CONNIE TSANG
A beautiful diner dating back to the 1930s, THE LAKEVIEW (1132/1134 Dundas Street West, +1 416 850 8886; thelakeviewrestaurant.ca) is a much-loved spot among the Toronto brunch crowd. Its menu is reasonably priced, and the malted shakes generously sized. Moreover, it’s open 24 hours – and scenes from David Cronenberg’s Cosmopolis were filmed here.
More about Linn
THE DrAKE HoTEL (1150 Queen Street West, +1 416 531 5042; thedrakehotel.ca) is in the middle of it all, hosting regular gigs and cultural events. With rooms ranging from “solo” to “suite” (from $169 per night), you’ll find something to suit your travel needs. It also has a great restaurant with a popular brunch menu.
Corkwoman Linn Vizard has been working in Toronto for 18 months. A graduate of NCAD, her Canadian career has thrown her head over heels into the design and tech world. She works as a designer at a usability consultancy and, in her spare time runs meet-up group Service Design Toronto, and explores this diverse and exciting city on her vintage yellow bicycle. @wittster.
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Craft and micro-breweries are booming in popularity in Toronto, and leading the pack on the trendy Ossington strip is BELLWOODS BREWERY (124 Ossington Avenue, +1 416 535 4586; bellwoodsbrewery.com). Be warned – by 6pm on Saturdays there are queues out the door, due to popularity and limited capacity. However, it also has a Bottle Shop if you want to buy beer to take home.
THE BLOOR HOT DOCS CINEMA (506 Bloor Street West, +1 416 637 3123; bloorcinema.com) is a documentary cinema, the first of its kind in North America. Originally opened in 1913, it now screens only documentaries and is a venue for the Toronto Film Festival (September 5-15; tiff.net). Describing itself as “the ultimate treasure hunt”, second-hand chain store VALUE VILLAGE (multiple locations; valuevillage.com) is a thrifter’s dream. You can find everything here, from clothing and furniture to records and toys, the thrill of finding the perfect 1980s dress or a flip clock alarm radio never ceases to amaze ... BLACK DICE CAFE (1574 Dundas Street West; blackdicecafe.com) is a tiny Japanese Rockabilly bar. I love hanging out here, playing the vintage pinball machine and listening to the retro jukebox. There is also a kitschy menu of snacks and sake-based cocktails. It can get busy on weekend nights, so arrive early if you want a table.
For a unique experience, check out the BACKYARD AXE THROWING LEAGUE (213 Sterling Road; batl.ca). You can book the venue for events for ten-plus people, which includes coaching, then a tournament. It’s also BYOB which adds to the danger/fun level. If you would rather just watch the pros, drop by on league nights.
pHOTOGRApH BY kAROlYNe ellACOTT
ARMED (1024 Dundas Street West, +1 647 988 9462; upandarmed.com) is my favourite Toronto jewellery store. Owned by the self-taught designer Desiree Girlato, her jewellery is unique and eye catching, with everything from small brooches to large body pieces. Desiree is also super friendly and chatty, and offers great ideas on how to style the pieces. The best dining experience I have encountered in Toronto so far is CHANTECLER (1320 Queen Street West, +1 416 628 3586; restaurantchantecler.ca). restaurantchantecler.ca The ambience, food, service and cocktails are second to none. A tasting menu, which will blow your socks off, is available weekends only by reservation. COmmeNCING ApRIl 2014, AER LINGUS FlIeS FROm DuBlIN TO TORONTO DAIlY THROuGHOuT SummeR; TO BOOk, aerlingus.com.
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Indulge yourself...
Here, at the water’s edge of Lough Lein, escape into a world of relaxed elegance while enjoying one of the most breathtaking views in Ireland Enjoy complimentary access to the Active Level of ESPA at The Europe which includes 20m lap pool, indoor and outdoor vitality pools, heat experiences, lifestyle showers, technogym and relaxation areas. Horse Riding and Indoor Tennis are also complimentary Visit www.theeurope.com and discover why The Europe Hotel & Resort has been awarded ‘Best Five Star Hotel in Ireland’ & ‘Supreme Winner of 2012 Gold Medal Award for Excellence’ - Hotel & Catering Review Awards
The Europe Hotel & Resort, Fossa, Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: 064 66 71300 Email: reservations@theeurope.com Web:www.theeurope.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheEurope
There is beauty in simplicity E N J OY S O M E T H I N G E X T R AO R D I N A RY, S U R P R I S I N G & LU X U R I O U S .
The Marker Hotel Grand Canal Square, Docklands, Dublin 2, Ireland. Book online at themarkerhoteldublin.com or call + 353 1 687 5130
INFLIGHT
Inflight
For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including The Incredible Burt Wonderstone (pictured), turn to page 116.
inFlight
Welcome Aboard For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.
Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.
ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ... ... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.
Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.
Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off. Devices PermitteD ✔ at any time: Devices powered by micro battery cells
and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.
Devices PermitteD ● in Flight but not During taxi/take-oFF/
initial climb/aPProach lanDing: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode
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selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected. Devices ProhibiteD ✘ at all times: Devices transmitting radio frequency
intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.
Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat
Food and bar service
Seirbhís bia agus beáir
A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.
Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.
News, music and movies
Nuacht, ceol agus scannáin
On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.
Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.
Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis. GLéAsAnnA A bhfuIL ✔ ceAdAIthe I GcónAí: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as
micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.
GLéAsAnnA Atá ● ceAdAIthe I rIth nA heItILte, Ach nAch
bhfuIL ceAdAIthe Le LInn don eItLeán bheIth AG GLuAIseAcht Ar tALAmh/AG éIrí de thALAmh/ AG tAbhAIrt fAoIn dreApAdh tosAIGh/ AG dírIú Ar thuIrLInGt/ AG tuIrLInGt: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir
Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe). Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.
GLéAsAnnA A bhfuIL ✘ cosc IomLán orthu: Gléasanna a tharchuireann
minicíocht raidió d’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha. Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí. Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).
SmokiNg In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. tobAc De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh. Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.
Aer Lingus. nk you for choosing to fly with Tha ht. flig t san plea and able We hope you have a comfort le hAer Lingus. agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal t aga h hac eam taitn h dac por Tá suil againn go mbíonn turas com
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INFLIGHT
Aer Lingus news Aer Lingus LAunches #sociALjet Aer Lingus recently unveiled #socialjet, an aircraft which has been specially designed to promote Aer Lingus’ Twitter and Facebook in order to drive the number of fans and followers on each social media platform. The aircraft is emblazoned with graphics which span six metres wide and 1.3 metres high and features slogans including “Have you liked us yet?” and “Have you followed us yet?” along with the @AerLingus Twitter handle and Facebook.com/ AerLingus link. The #socialjet logo is just under window level. To date, Aer Lingus has had just over 12,000 followers on Twitter and over 25,000 “Likes” on Facebook. Both channels have been fully resourced to handle customer queries. Aer Lingus is now active on Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, Instagram and Pinterest and moves towards fully integrating social media with the web and customer service experience as these channels develop.
Holiday in the US and Canada in 2014
for the first half Aer Lingus’ recorded revenues of €657.9 million period last year. of 2013, a 5% increase compared with the same
With the recent announcement of two exciting new routes to San Francisco and Toronto with Aer Lingus starting next summer and flights from Shannon to New York and Boston almost doubling in frequency, customers will have plenty of choice when booking a break stateside. Visit the world-famous Golden Gate Bridge or the wonderful bustling city of Toronto, situated on Lake Ontario. The ever-popular favourites of New York, Boston, Chicago and Orlando feature highly on the schedule with increased frequencies and year-round services. So, it is the perfect time to plan your trip to the US.
NEW Service from Shannon to Lanzarote
Airspace Lounge at JFK open for business
From 26 October, Aer Lingus will introduce a weekly service between Shannon and Lanzarote. Flights will depart on Saturdays and operate through to the end of March. Lanzarote is a hugely popular year round destination, offering sun-seekers a perfect winter sun option. Flights are available for sale on aerlingus.com.
Aer Lingus business and Gold Circle customers can now avail of the newly opened Airspace Lounge at John F Kennedy International Airport Terminal 5. The Airspace Lounge boasts ample space and a luxurious atmosphere in a postsecurity, convenient location. The Lounge has been designed specifically to meet the needs of the modern air traveller with power outlets at every seat, a comprehensive food offering, complimentary Wi-Fi, a fully stocked bar, scanning and printing capabilities, private restrooms and excellent shower facilities.
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iNfLiGHt
Movies
FlighTS To ThE UNiTED STATES iroN MaN 3
Action, Sci-Fi, Fantasy (PG 13) 109 minutes Marvel’s Iron Man 3 pits brash-but-brilliant industrialist Tony Stark/Iron Man against an enemy whose reach knows no bounds. When Stark finds his personal world destroyed at his enemy’s hands, he embarks on a harrowing quest to find those responsible. With his back against the wall, Stark is left to survive by his own devices, relying on his ingenuity and instincts to protect those closest to him. As he fights his way back, Stark discovers the answer to the question that has secretly haunted him: does the man make the suit or does the suit make the man? Iron Man 3 currently ranks as the fifth-highest-grossing film of all time and the highestgrossing film of 2013. StarS Robert Downey Jr., Gwyneth Paltrow, Guy Pearce, Don Cheadle DirEctor Shane Black
20 ANS D’ECART
21 & oVEr
42
Comedy / Romance (NR)
Comedy (R)
Drama / Sport (PG-13)
a LatE QuartEt
tHE BiG WEDDiNG
StarS Miles Teller, Justin Chon, Jonathan Keltz
StarS Harrison Ford, Nicole Beharie, Lucas Black, Hamish Linklater, Ryan Merriman, T.R. Knight
Drama / Music (R)
Comedy (R)
StarS Philip Seymour Hoffman, Christopher Walken, Catherine Keener
StarS Robert De Niro, Diane Keaton, Katherine Heigl, Amanda Seyfried, Robin Williams
ScattEr My aSHES at BErGDorf’S
StarS Virginie Efira, Pierre Niney
tHE caLL
DEaD MaN DoWN
Thriller (R) StarS Halle Berry, Abigail Breslin, Morris Chestnut, Michael Imperioli, Michael Eklund
StarS Colin Farrell, Noomi Rapace, Dominic Cooper, Terrence Howard
Epic
traNcE Drama (R)
StarS James McAvoy, Rosario Dawson, Vincent Cassel
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Action/ Thriller/ Drama (R)
Family / Fantasy / Animation (PG) VoicES of Colin Farrell, Josh Hutcherson, Amanda Seyfried, Christoph Waltz, Aziz Ansari
September 2013
LoVE MariLyN
pHiL SpEctor
Documentary (PG-13)
Drama (NR)
fEaturiNG Elizabeth Banks,Adrien Brody, Ellen Burstyn, Glenn Close, Hope Davis, Paul Giamatti, Jack Huston
StarS Al Pacino, Helen Mirren, Jeffrey Tambor
Mr. poppErS pENGuiNS Comedy (PG) StarS Jim Carrey, Angela Lansbury, Carla Gugino
Documentary / Fashion (PG 13)
fEaturiNG Tom Ford, Vera Wang, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld
toM & JErry: roBiN HooD aND HiS MErry MouSE
Family / Animation / Comedy (G) VoicES of Jamie Bamber
tHE rEEf 2 HiGH tiDE
Family/ Animation / Musical (PG) VoicES of Drake Bell, Andy Dick, Fran Drescher
tHE BLiNG riNG Crime / Drama (R) StarS Katie Chang, Israel Broussard, Emma Watson, Leslie Mann
to tHE WoNDEr Drama / Romance (R) StarS Ben Affleck, Olga Kurylenko, Javier Bardem, Rachel McAdams
To mark the Gathering ireland 2013 – Aer Lingus presents six Irish Short Films that have achieved global recognition – Irish Folk Furniture, Fluffy Mc Cloud, Fear of Flying, A Different Perspective, Homemade and Two Hearts.
Movies
Flights From the UNiteD stAtes THE CROODS
Animation, Comedy, Family (PG) 92 minutes The Croods tells the story of the world’s first family road trip. When their cave is destroyed, the Crood family must embark on a comedy adventure into strange and spectacular territory in search of a new home. As if patriarch Grug didn’t already have enough to handle, it goes from bad to worse when they encounter an imaginative nomad named Guy. With Guy’s help the Croods conquer their fear of the outside world and discover that they have exactly what it takes to survive – each other. The worldwide box-office success of The Croods has launched a new franchise, with a sequel confirmed and a TV series already in development. STaRS vOiCES Of Nicolas Cage, Ryan Reynolds, Emma Stone, Catherine Keener DiRECTOR Chris Sanders, Kirk De Micco
BROKEN Drama (R) STaRS Cillian Murphy, Tim Roth, Rory Kinnear, Robert Emms, Eloise Laurence
THE COMPaNY YOU KEEP Drama / Thriller (R) STaRS Ericka Robert Redford, Nick Nolte, Stanley Tucci, Shia LaBeouf, Julie Christie, Susan Sarandon
fiNDiNG JOY
GaMBiT
THE HOST
Comedy (NR)
Comedy (PG 13)
Drama / Fantasy (PG 13)
STaRS Josh Cooke, Liane Balaban, Barry Bostwick
STaRS Colin Firth, Cameron Diaz, Alan Rickman, Stanley Tucci
STaRS Saoirse Ronan, Jake Abel, Max Irons, William Hurt, Chandler Canterbury, Boyd Holbrook
NiGHT TRaiN TO LiSBON
OBLiviON
iT’S a DiSaSTER
LES PROfS
MUD
Comedy (R)
Comedy (PG)
Drama (PG 13)
STaRS Julia Stiles, Rachel Boston, Kevin M. Brennan, David Cross, America Ferrera
STaRS Christian Clavier, Isabelle Nanty, Kev Adams
STaRS Matthew McConaughey, Tye Sheridan, Jacob Lofland, Reese Witherspoon, Michael Shannon, Sam Shepard
THE PLaCE BEYOND THE PiNES Drama (R)
STaRS Ryan Gosling, Bradley Cooper, Eva Mendes, Rose Byrne, Ray Liotta
SafE HavEN
RiO
Drama / Romance (PG 13)
Family / Animation / Comedy (PG)
STaRS Julianne Hough, Josh Duhamel, Cobie Smulders
vOiCES Of Jamie Foxx, Will I Am, Jane Lynch, Jesse Eisenberg
Mystery / Thriller / Romance (NR) STaRS Jeremy Irons, Jack Huston, Lena Olin, Charlotte Rampling, Bruno Ganz
RaMONa & BEEZUS
Family / Comedy (G) STaRS Selena Gomez, Joey King, John Corbett, Bridget Moynahan
THE iNCREDiBLE BURT WONDERSTONE Comedy (PG 13) STaRS Steve Carell, Steve Buscemi, Olivia Wilde, Alan Arkin
OLYMPUS HaS faLLEN
Action / Fantasy / Sci Fi (PG-13)
Action / Thriller (R)
STaRS Tom Cruise, Morgan Freeman, Olga Kurylenko, Andrea Riseborough
SCOOBY DOO! SCOOBY DOO BiG TOP
Family / Animation / Fantasy (G)
vOiCES Of Frank Welker, Mindy Cohn, Grey DeLisle
STaRS Gerard Butler, Morgan Freeman, Aaron Eckhart, Radha Mitchell, Ashley Judd, Melissa Leo To mark The Gathering ireland 2013 – Aer Lingus presents six Irish Short Films that have achieved global recognition – Irish Folk Furniture, Fluffy Mc Cloud, Fear of Flying, A Different Perspective, Homemade and Two Hearts.
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INFLIGHT
Television
On demand
On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Don’t miss the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle and Kids programmes.
LIFESTYLE HIGHLIGHTS
An Apology to Elephants
Secrets of the Irish Landscape
Programmes include Storage Wars New York, Heston’s Fantastical Food, Jamie and Jimmy’s Food Fight Club, Other Voices, HBC Golfing World and Race of Champions.
DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS
Enter a world of award-winning documentaries – An Apology to Elephants, Dust and Stripes, Wild Mississippi, Tulip Bubble, Animal Odd Couples, Killing Lincoln and the Megafactories series focuses on Guinness. Music documentary highlights include Classic Album – U2 (The Joshua Tree), 1D All for One and Video Killed The Radio Star focuses on the iconic David Bowie. To celebrate The Gathering 2013 two must see documentaries are Secret Life of the Shannon and Secrets of the Irish Landscape. Rebuilding New York’s Breezy Point tells the story of a GPA-led team of stars
who travelled with the support of Aer Lingus to help reconstruct a devastated community inflicted by Superstorm Sandy. Multiple episodes of Premium Factual documentaries are available On Demand, from History Channel enjoy three episodes of Mankind The Story of All of Us, narrated by Josh Brolin and Stephen Fry. History Channel also presents the Emmy award-winning America: The Story of the US and from the National Geographic Channel there are three episodes of the technology series Engineering Connections, and three episodes of Great Migrations.
Bride to be
KIDS HIGHLIGHTS
Kids will enjoy Disney favourites Doc Mc Stuffins and Handy Manny and from Monster Entertainment kids will love I’m A Creepy Crawly and Roobard and Custard. Tweens and Teens will love Glee and Disney’s Good Luck Charlie and Jessie.
DRAMA HIGHLIGHTS
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Doc McStuffins
Modern Family
Ripper Street
As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers an engaging choice of DRAMA TV with multiple episodes available of the hottest drama from the US and UK. There are also one-off episodes to select from in brand new Dallas, Gossip Girl, Treme and Glee. Three episodes of brand new BBC Drama, Ripper Street, are available. This compelling, gritty crime drama with a stellar cast, which is set in Victorian London, is fused with rich episodic storylines that meld with the intrigue of a criminal underworld as it follows the battle of the men whose job it is to bring the law to the lawless. According to The Guardian, “Ripper Street is beautifully performed, and beautiful to look at – stylish, and stylised.” Ripper Street is filmed in Dublin. After fabulous ratings and reviews
Don’t miss Dermot’s Secret Garden, Project Runway All Stars, Bride To Be and Who Do You Think You Are? New series Auction takes us into some of the world’s greatest auction houses and Fitzpatrick Hotels New York tells John Fitzpatrick’s unique story of his New York. To mark The Gathering 2013 Aer Lingus presents four episodes of The Genealogy Roadshow – part historical detective story, part emotional journey, a team of experts takes genealogy to the heart of a country and uniquely offers ordinary people the opportunity to find their place in history.
COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS
Game of Thrones for the first series, the moving, funny and true-to-life look at the colourful stories of midwifery in East London in the 1950s continues in Call The Midwife. Three episodes from the award-winning series 2 are available On Demand. Aer Lingus is proud to premiere the first three episodes of Season 3 of Game of Thrones. In Season 3, many critical plot points from the first two seasons come to a head, with several major characters meeting cruel fates. This epic drama is set
in a fantasy continent and is a truly thrilling journey through a riveting and unforgettable fictional landscape. Production and filming for the series took place in Northern Ireland. Watch out for the first three episodes of brand new HBO Drama Banshee. This exciting new series charts the twists and turns that follow recently paroled master jewel thief Lucas Hood. Described by the Hollywood Reporter as, “ …taut, entertaining and smart…hooks you immediately.”
Don’t miss two episodes of the hottest comedy of the moment – Modern Family. Other brand new comedy includes The Inbetweeners USA, It’s Always Sunny In Philadelphia, Family Guy, Louie, How I Met Your Mother, The Big Bang Theory, Two and A Half Men and Trollied, Comedy highlights from HBO include Veep, Enlightened and Curb Your Enthusiasm. Aer Lingus presents the first five episodes of Girls from the brand new Season 2. As Lena Dunham’s award-winning hit comedy series returns to HBO; Girls, a poignant yet humourous show, follows the urban adventures of a group of 20-something NYC women. Or, take a comedic trip back in time and enjoy Father Ted, Men Behaving Badly, Arrested Development, The New Adventures of Old Christine and HBO’s Entourage.
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INFLIGHT
Radio
On demand 1970s
Indie/Alternative
Classical
Easy Listening
Fitzpatrick Hotels
That 70s Show
Indie Hits
John Kelly
This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information, fitzpatrickhotels.com. Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.
Take a trip back to the decade famous for flares and flower power in That 70s Show. Listen out for some seriously memorable gems from The Rolling Stones, Stevie Wonder, Pink Floyd, ABBA to Lou Reed, The Who and The Clash.
Tune into Indie Hits – an alternative selection of tunes from bands that have now gained cult status. Bands to listen out for include grunge gods Nirvana and the inimitable Pixies, as well as other US Indie gods – The Shins, The National and The Black Keys. Manchester’s finest of course make an appearance in the form of The Stone Roses and Oasis.
On RTÉ lyric fm, Kelly presents The John Kelly Ensemble every weekday afternoon between 2pm and 4pm. From Bach to Brian Eno, The John Kelly Ensemble transforms your afternoons with a sonic adventure like no other. Here, exclusively for Aer Lingus passengers, John provides a carefullychosen selection of classical music. You can find out more about John’s programmes on rte.ie/lyricfm or follow him on Twitter @johnkellytweets
Pop
Poetry
Talk Radio
Traditional Irish
Chart Hits
Irish Poetry Corner
Best of Moncrieff
Ceol na nGael
Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute Pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic. Listen out for your favourite artists in this compilation of smash hits. This exciting set of songs features hits from the world’s most successful artists including, Justin Timberlake, Nicole Scherzinger and One Direction. Also listen out for brand new songs from industry stalwarts Depeche Mode and David Bowie.
Poetry has been a passion in Ireland for a couple of thousand years. Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets – W.B. Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith, Percy French, Oscar Wilde and others of note. This unique selection is at times comic, romantic and always nostalgic. Enjoy this ensemble of Irish poetry produced especially for Aer Lingus to celebrate this remarkable Irish tradition.
Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.
Ceol na nGael is a traditional music programme presented, in Irish, by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Seán presents Sruth na Maoile on RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and is celebrating 40 years on air. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth, le Seán Ó hÉanaigh. For more, visit rte.ie/rnag. Twitter @RTERnaG.
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INFLIGHT
Radio
On demand
Opera
Irish
Countdown
Documentary On One Documentary On One is the multi award winning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (88-90FM) and is currently the most successful documentary unit in the world – winning over 70 awards since 2009. The website rte.ie/doconone contains over 1,000 radio documentaries all freely available to listen/podcast. You can also download the all new and free Documentary On One for iPhone and/or Android app. The documentaries featured are “Kerry and The Tramp”, “Fire and Water” and “Kenmare Street”. rte.ie/doconone.
The Big 10 98FM’s Big 10 is presented by Claire Solan, the voice of the Dublin airwaves and presenter of many well-known TV shows. In this special programme commissioned for Aer Lingus, Claire uses the theme of The Gathering 2013 and remembers previous events and gatherings that have brought Ireland and Irish people together over the past decades. We hope you enjoy the music, moments and memories. For more on Claire and 98FM, visit 98fm.com
Opera Night
Homecoming
In Tales from the Opera RTÉ lyric fm presenter Liz Nolan visits the history of this spectacular art. She presents an opera, a story, a glimpse into the lives of the characters, both real and imaginary, who have shaped the form as we know it today ...”Poor Butterfly” smirked Noel Coward. But can any of us remain unmoved by a story of such desperate sadness? Tales from the Opera pays homage to Puccini’s Madama Butterfly.
Homecoming is a nostalgic mix of famous Irish songs selected especially for The Gathering 2013. Whether you live in Ireland, are coming home to visit relatives and friends or discover your Irish roots – these Irish classics are sure to conjure up memories of days gone by. This show represents the cream of Irish talent from U2, The Pogues, The Cranberry’s, Horslips, The Dubliners, The Saw Doctors to Rory Gallagher and many more. Enjoy Coming Home with Homecoming.
Kids
Alternative
Jazz
Folk, Roots
RTÉ Jr
Phantom
Jazz Alley
Roots Freeway
Join Audrey and Ogie in The Cosy Corner to enter a world of sleepy and comforting music that’s sure to help little ones drift to the Land of Nod. The Cosy Corner has plenty of sleepy-time stories and meditations from all over the world; including soothing Irish lullabies. All of the lullabies are chosen especially for sleepyheads flying all over the world. So get your pillow and your blanket and get comfortable in the Cosy Corner … it’s going to be a relaxing flight. rte.ie/rtejr/listen
Phantom 105.2 is the home of very best music on Irish radio. Phantom is committed to playing new music, Indie Rock and alternative music for Dublin. Claire Beck brings you through a selection of what you will hear on Dublin’s alternative Radio Station! Claire presents Phantom Drive, daily from 3pm on Phantom 105.2. Turn it on and try something different! Phantom 105.2 – phantom.ie!
Take a walk down Jazz Alley with Donald Helme, featuring the best in classic and contemporary jazz. Focusing on the curious, quirky, obscure, and neglected Jazz Alley broadcasts on Ireland’s dedicated classical music station, RTÉ lyric fm, each Wednesday evening at 7pm. Donald Helme’s lifelong enthusiasm for jazz began in the 1950s with Count Basie, and blossomed from there to include almost all aspects of this absorbing and important music.
Niall Toner presents Roots Freeway on RTÉ Radio 1, Ireland’s mostlistened-to radio station; Saturday nights at 11pm. Roots Freeway is an eclectic mix of Folk, Bluegrass, Blues and Roots Music. Toner is, first and foremost, a music fan, but he is also a songwriter and a musician in his own right, playing guitar and mandolin with his own band, The Niall Toner Band.
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Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to allow your skin to breathe. Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.
Exercising your feet and Reducing the effects legs periodically helps to of Jet Lag: reduce possible effects of Avoid heavy food, long-duration travel. alcohol, tea or coffee the Avoid sitting or sleeping day before you travel. When you arrive at your in the same position destination, try to adjust for too long and gently your activities to the stretch muscles to new time zone. improve your circulation. Move your neck and Mild exercise on arrival shoulders during long will help to stimulate flights to prevent your circulation. stiffness.
We wish you an enjoyable experience.
Travel Tips It is important to take time to reduce your risk of getting sick. Various viruses are thought to spread mainly from person to person through coughing, sneezing, or close contact with the flu. Here are some everyday preventative actions you can take to help slow the spread of germs that cause respiratory illness, like flu: Cover your nose and mouth when you cough and sneeze. This will help to prevent the spread of droplets that contain germs. Wash your hands often with soap and water. If soap and water are not available use an alcohol–based hand rub. Avoid touching your eyes, nose and mouth, this can cause the spread of germs. An important step is to get a flu vaccination, especially for elderly people, people with certain chronic health conditions, and pregnant women.
Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.
Passengers with wheelchair requirements Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.
Maximum weight
10kg 55cm (22ins)
If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com Telephone: (Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222
AER LINGUS
AER LINGUS REGIONAL
48cm (19ins)
40cm (16ins)
7kg (15 lbs)
(22 lbs)
24cm (9ins)
Maximum weight
20cm (8ins)
33cm (13ins)
In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.
Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.
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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other
passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not
be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.
O
’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned O’Neill’s. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has flourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. O’Neill’s is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin.
Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area
When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ... ●
Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´.
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Traditional Irish Music 7 nights-a-week
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Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area
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Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers in Ireland
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Pour Your Own Pint tables
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Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers
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HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.
‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast only
€6.95
Available Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am
M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796
“Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin”
2013 Les Routiers Pub of The Year
AdvertoriAl
International Hurling Festival Ready for Take Off
Cork hurling goalkeeper Anthony Nash and former Clare great Jamesie O’Connor are calling on hurling fans across the country to support the first ever International Hurling Festival, hosted by Aer Lingus in partnership with Etihad Airways, in Galway this month. The event is expected to draw a massive crowd to Galway from across Ireland and beyond from 18-21 September. “I think this is a fantastic initiative by Aer Lingus,” said Nash. “To host a festival which both celebrates the game of hurling, and also supports the development of the game in countries across the world can only be good for the sport. I would expect that hurling fans across the country will show their support by buying a ticket and coming to Galway for the festival.” Sixteen overseas teams will participate in the competition including teams from New York, San Francisco, Canada, the UK, Continental Europe, the Middle East and Australia. The tournament also helps to promote the game of hurling in developing regions by including teams such as Buenos Aires, Milwaukee, Indianapolis and a European team comprised entirely of non-Irish nationals.
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Cork hurling goalkeeper Anthony Nash and former Clare great Jamesie o’Connor at the announcement that tickets are now on sale for the Aer lingus and etihad Airways international Hurling Festival
“Anyone who loves the game of hurling will want to be in Galway for this festival.” “Anyone who loves the game of hurling will want to be in Galway for this festival,” said O’Connor. “To see teams coming here from as far away as Argentina and Australia is amazing, not to mention a team made up entirely of non-Irish nationals. To think that the lure of the camán has now spread so far is fantastic for those of us who are passionate about the game.” The qualifying games
will take place in Loughrea, Ballinasloe and Gort with the finals being staged at Pearse Stadium on Saturday, 21 September. This unique festival will also bring together the “Best of Irish” with food, craft and entertainment also taking place at the stadium on the day of the final. Declan Kearney, Director of Communications at Aer Lingus, said they expect a
traditional Irish welcome for the travelling teams. “There are teams and supporters travelling to Galway from all over the World for the first ever International Hurling Festival this month. We hope that hurling and GAA fans across the country will also make the trip to Galway and show their support for the travelling teams. With under 18s enjoying free entry, and adult tickets priced at just €5, it’s a very affordable way to enjoy what should be a superb few days of hurling and also support a great local cause in the Galway Hospice.”
The International Hurling Festival runs from Wednesday to Saturday, September 18-21 2013. Adult tickets, priced at €5, are available from tickets.ie while under 18s go free and all proceeds go to the Galway Hospice. Visit hurlingfestival.com for more information, Like facebook.com/aerlingushurling or follow twitter.com/AerLingusFest
INFLIGHT
Route maps
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK Helsinki Stockholm
Aberdeen Glasgow
Kerry
Edinburgh
Copenhagen
Newcastle Isle of Man Blackpool DUBLIN Manchester London Birmingham HEATHRoW
Hamburg
Amsterdam London Dusseldorf SouTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Frankfurt
Berlin
Warsaw
Cardiff
Jersey
Paris
Rennes
Stuttgart
Prague
Munich
Vienna
Zurich Geneva Lyon
Bordeaux Bilbao
Santiago de Compostela
Toulouse Perpignan Madrid
Faro
Milan
Marseille MALPENSA Nice
Venice Verona Bologna Dubrovnik
Bourgas
Rome
Barcelona
Ibiza
Lisbon
Milan
LINATE
Budapest
Naples
Palma
Corfu Izmir
Alicante
Catania
Malaga
Athens
Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife
Fuerteventura Gran Canaria
To & From Dublin Austria Vienna
Czech Republic Prague
Belgium Brussels
Denmark Copenhagen
Bulgaria Bourgas
Finland Helsinki
Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife
France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan Toulouse ■ Rennes
Croatia Dubrovnik
Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart Greece Athens Corfu Hungary Budapest Ireland ■ Kerry
Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona The Netherlands Amsterdam Morocco Agadir Poland Warsaw
Portugal Faro Lisbon
Switzerland Geneva Zurich
Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela
Turkey Izmir
Sweden Stockholm
United Kingdom Birmingham London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester
■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Birmingham Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend Manchester Newcastle (new route commencing on 24 October)
■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com
September 2013
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INFLIGHT
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Knock
BELFAST Manchester
Dublin
Birmingham
SHANNON Bristol London Heathrow
CORK
Amsterdam
LONdON GATWICK
Brussels
Jersey
Paris
Rennes
Munich
Geneva
Nice
Barcelona Palma Lisbon Faro
Alicante Malaga
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Las Palmas
To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Flights operate from George Best Belfast City Airport
Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick
FROM CORK Belgium Brussels Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas France Nice Paris ■ Rennes Germany Munich
FROM GATWICK Portugal Faro Lisbon Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma Switzerland Geneva The Netherlands Amsterdam
United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester
Ireland Belfast Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)
FROM SHANNON United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester
FROM KNOCK ■ United Kingdom Birmingham London Gatwick
Portugal Faro Canary Islands Lanzarote (new route
commencing 26 October)
■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
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September 2013
USA ROUTE NETWORK
Toronto Chicago
Boston New York
San Francisco Shannon
Dublin
Orlando
To & From Dublin & Shannon FROM DUBLIN
FROM SHANNON
USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando San Francisco
USA Boston New York
Canada Toronto
(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)
Chicago Orlando
HAer Lingus is flying direct from Dublin to Toronto and San Francisco from April 2014. Aer Lingus flights are available for sale on aerlingus.com
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inFLight
CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA Edmonton
Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR
Minneapolis Milwaukee
san FranCisCo San Jose
Oakland
Burbank Long Beach Orange County
toronto
Detroit
Burlington Syracuse Rochester
Buffalo
Portland ME
Boston Pittsburgh Nantucket Philadelphia neW York Des Moines Salt Lake City Indianapolis Columbus Baltimore Cincinnati Washington Greensboro Wichita Saint Louis Denver DuLLES Washington NATIONAL Louisville Lexington Richmond Nashville Tulsa Raleigh - Durham Las Vegas Oklahoma City Charlotte Knoxville Memphis Omaha
Sacramento
Grand Rapids
Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego
Phoenix
ChiCago
Cleveland Dayton
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Atlanta Charleston
Austin
Houston
New Orleans
San Antonio
Jacksonville Orlando
Tampa Fort Myers
West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami
Aguadilla
San Juan Ponce
FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO new destinations with aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United airlines and aer arann Getting to the uS from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. uS, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental uS destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to fly to the united States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of united States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at
Terminal 2, Dublin airport. This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of uS bound flights to clear uS immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the uS without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination. ■ neW York Connecting with JetBlue at JFk: Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. From april 3 2013, aer
Lingus flight operations will move from terminal 4 at John F. kennedy international airport into JetBlue’s acclaimed terminal 5, at JFk. ■ Boston Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan international airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.
■ ChiCago Connecting with United airlines at o’hare Chicago international airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your uA domestic departure point. Passengers from the uS to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the uA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin.
■ DUBLin Connecting with aer Lingus regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final uS destination.
All routes correct at time of going to press
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September 2013
edinburgh
Glasgow
Isle of Man Hamburg
Manchester
Dublin Birmingham
Shannon kerry
london
london souTHend london
cardiff Bristol
Berlin
amsterdam
HeaTHrow
GaTwIck
warsaw
dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt
paris Munich
Vienna
Geneva Milan
Malpensa
Madrid
Milan
Venice
lInaTe
rome
Barcelona
palma
Faro
Malaga
■ Via Dublin with aer lingus
■ Via Dublin with aer lingus Regional
■ Via new YoRk with Jetblue
amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels dusseldorf edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg london (Gatwick) london (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Milan linate Milan Malpensa Munich palma paris rome Venice Vienna warsaw
Bristol cardiff edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man london southend kerry
■ Via Shannon with aer lingus london (Heathrow) ■ Via Shannon with aer lingus Regional
Manchester Birmingham Bristol edinburgh
aguadilla austin Baltimore Boston Buffalo Burbank Burlington charlotte chicago denver Fort lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland orlando phoenix pittsburg ponce portland Me portland or raleigh-durham
rochester sacramento salt lake city san diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle syracuse Tampa west palm Beach
■ Via boSton with Jetblue
Baltimore Buffalo charleston charlotte chicago dallas Fort worth denver Ford lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans
oakland orlando philadelphia phoenix pittsburg portland or raleigh-durham richmond salt lake city san diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle Tampa washington (dulles) washington (national) west palm Beach
■ Via ChiCago with united to uSa
atlanta austin charlotte charleston cincinnati chicago cleveland
columbus dallas (Fort worth) dayton denver des Moines detroit Fort Myers Grand rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville kansas city knoxville las Vegas lexington los angeles louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis nantucket nashville new orleans oklahoma city omaha orange county phoenix pittsburgh
portland or raleigh-durham rochester sacramento salt lake city san antonio san diego san Francisco san Jose santa ana seattle st louis Tampa Tulsa wichita
■ Via ChiCago with united to Canada
calgary edmonton salt lake city Toronto Vancouver winnipeg
■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann September 2013
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INFLIGHT
Middle east and australasia route network
Dublin
Bahrain Abu Dhabi
Muscat
Kuala Lumpur Singapore
FROM DUBLIN
VIa aBU DHaBI TO:
Abu Dhabi
Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bahrain Sydney Melbourne
Flights are operated by our codeshare partner, Etihad Airways.
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Sydney Melbourne
U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS
Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for: • • • • •
Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers
• • • •
Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science
Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals. Personal service and fast turnaround assured.
OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY AND KILKENNY, IRELAND
New York T: 212 965-1148
Kilkenny T: 056-7767994
MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION
www.obrienandassociates.com
sh e Iri Fre iskey Wh tings Tas yday! r Eve
27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 +353 (0) 1 675 9744
FT O
ET ON ST RE
N ST R
EET
TRINITY COLLEGE
DAWS
Ireland’s Whiskey Experts!
GRA
&
SAINT STEPHENS GREEN
“Beautiful classics at reasonable prices” Vogue
www.celticwhiskeyshop.com INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING Like us on Facebook @ Celtic-Whiskey-ShopWines-On-The-Green
Follow us on Twitter @Celticwhiskey or @Winesonthegreen
30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College) www.thesweatershop.ie | T. +353 1 671 2292
InFlIGHt
Flight Connections
CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT FLIGHTS ARRIvING AT TERmINAL 2 FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s
FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s
To Gates 100s 300s
Immigration
Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk
Immigration
Security Check
Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426
Terminal 2 Arrivals
If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.
If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.
If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.
Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport
Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. Please disembark From THe BACK oF THe airCraFT iF:
Please disembark From THe FRONT oF THe airCraFT iF:
You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination
*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft
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September 2013
london is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic Uk airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance
Cloghan Castle
R A I LT O U R S IRELAND
First Class!
Book Today - Travel Tomorrow
• Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty • Waterford & Kilkenny • Cork & Blarney Castle • The Giant's Causeway • The Ring of Kerry • The Aran Islands • Connemara & Galway Bay • The Wicklow Mountains ONE DAY TOURS TO Blarney Castle NINE DAY TOURS FROM and Gardens DUBLIN Cliffs of Moher
C
loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way! Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.
Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: info@cloghancastle.com Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group Contact us for our Special Offers: www.cloghancastle.com
Your Name in Ogham
Car Free - Care Free
www.railtoursireland.com TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045 e-mail: info@railtoursireland.com
American Restaurant & Bar
in association with (Irish Rail)
A FREE APPETISER for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass Terms and conditions apply
BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie
͘ŞǺͰΫ ˔ϓͰǺϓ˔ Ǻ٫̭Ǻ͡ʍǺˠƚǺ ʍˠ ǖϓŞʳʍˠ͙ ̛Ɇ ͰΫ̾ ͰΫǺ̭ɻǺˠͰ ɞ͡ǺǺˠ
ņɶ ϝ̈ϭ˸ Ń̈͐ɶϭ
ª̬Ǹ˞ Ά Ǖij̾˰ ͯ٭μڈij˒ʄɆ̬˒ǎ ʲijΪǸ ˻̬Ǹ˞ʊ˞ɝ êϒͯ͟Ǖij ͯ٭Ȑ̬˒ UϒʊǕǸǕ Ϊ˻ϒͯ͟ ǸٞǸ͟ ٭ɺ˻ϒ͟ ɓѐ̰Шϭ oЉɌ ̰͜ ܛoˎμʿܱ ̈ʫ ܛѐ ͐ɶ͜Ш̈͜ Ш˸̈ϭ Ʊɓ ḭ́͜ ܛΙ ͐̈͜ѐШɶ Ʊ̰̩ ʫϝ͐ vϝƱʻ͜ įШ
tm
dublin 2 cork blanchardstown dundrum belfast bel
Michelin Bib Gourmand
with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock. 12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com
Carol Clarke MIRV, PJVal, Dip, RJDip, AJP, Diam, GIA Award winning Irish designer 7 Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson Street, Dublin 2 irishjewel.com Orders taken from all over the world! 10% Discount if you mention this ad
INFLIGHT
Flight Connections
at New York JohN F keNNedY airport
departures
arrivals
From April 3 2013, Aer Lingus will operate from Terminal 5 at New York’s JFK Airport. While known as JetBlue’s T5, Aer Lingus will have its own dedicated area within the terminal, allowing for easy check in, baggage handling and seamless connections to destinations within the United States and Puerto Rico. With the move to T5, the minimum connection time from European arrivals to connecting JetBlue markets will be reduced to just 60 minutes. Customers traveling to Ireland will enjoy JetBlue connections as fast as 40 minutes.
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The award-winning, stateof-the-art Terminal 5 offers great features and amenities, including: Up to 15 security lanes 26 gates with seats aplenty Free Wi-Fi 55,000 sq. feet of great food and shopping Large children’s play area and much more!
INFLIGHT
Sekonda Chronograph Men’s Dress Watch This watch has a classic design and the chromed metal case is complemented with a brown and cream dial. The one-second chronograph and 24-hour readout are highlighted with cream sub dials. The watch is finished with a brown padded leather strap and is waterresistant to 50 metres. Guaranteed for 2 years.
Celtic Circles Pendant & Earrings Set by Trinity & Co. This exquisite set radiates feminine beauty. The pendant’s gold-plated shamrocks are carefully placed in Celtic circles. The matching shamrock earrings have a clear crystal for extra sparkle. Wear your good luck wherever you go.
Sekonda Crystalla Women’s Watch with FREE matching pendant A stone set case with mother-of-pearl dial is enhanced with the crystal ball cord bracelet. This watch fits all wrists and is adjusted by pulling open the bracelet and then pulling the beaded strings to your desired size. A free matching pendant makes this set an ideal evening accessory or a perfect gift. Guaranteed for 2 years.
Sky Shopping
Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items onboard during September.
Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices philosophy all stars by philosophy
Daisy Sunshine
The best cosmetic is great looking skin. Our scientifically proven skin care is designed to give you the best skin of your life. In three simple steps you can achieve radiantly clear, beautifully bright, impeccably smooth skin. Always be your best.
Daisy Marc Jacobs has a sparkling floral bouquet. A fragrance that transports you to a place where positive meets playful, Daisy brings a smile to your face! Sunny, happy, free.
50ml EDT by Marc Jacobs
September 2013
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Trip of a life Time | UNiCef appeal
Aisha’s story
Rugby star Donncha O’Callaghan found hell and hope among Syrian refugees in northern Lebanon. have been lucky with my career, and also in my role as UNICEF Ireland Ambassador, to have opportunities to travel all over the world. But a recent visit to Lebanon on a mission to meet children affected by the crisis in Syria will stay with me for the rest of my life. Nothing could have prepared me for the suffering I saw as we travelled from Beirut to a remote settlement in northern Lebanon, only a few kilometres from the Syrian border. Many Irish people associate the country with the blue berets of our UN peacekeepers stationed there. These days it is home to the largest number of refugees in the region. We soon came across a settlement of makeshift tents where we discovered families hungry, thirsty and exhausted from a difficult and dangerous crossing. Without any toilets or safe drinking water on site, many of the children were very sick. I was shocked when a mother gave me her baby girl, Aisha, to hold, who is the same age as my own
I
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daughter, Anna, and I could barely feel her weight in my arms. Her wrists were tiny and you could see the bones sticking out of her chest. We’ve all seen those pictures but to experience it is something else. You wonder what you would do if they were your children and the answer is you’d do anything you could. Even in the worst situation imaginable it’s important that kids are allowed to be kids. They have suffered so much. One boy was so traumatised that he couldn’t speak a single word. It is up to us to ensure that they still have hope for a better future. We visited a project run by UNICEF and partners in the Bekaa region, which brings some much needed joy to the children, while helping them deal with their trauma. When I saw the staff playing with the children, I could see that those kids had a chance. Not to mention that it is the only bit of time their parents have alone together, a moment’s rest in an uncertain time. We cannot allow a lost generation to develop by denying Syria’s innocent young victims a childhood
Left, UNICEF Ireland Ambassador Donncha O’Callaghan and UNICEF Lebanon’s Miriam Azar muck in at a play centre for Syrian refugees in Halba. Right, a balancing act with siblings Mohmoud and Kawthar at a tented settlement.
Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination? Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself. The editor’s decision is final.
and an education. It was great to get on board the “school on a bus” that travels through the region teaching refugee children English and Arabic and know that they are not missing out on such a basic and fundamental right. UNICEF is helping these families to rebuild their lives and to give these children, who have been through so much, a future. The Aer Lingus Special Appeal for the Children of Syria has already raised €200,000 and I saw how this generosity from passengers directly transforms children’s lives on the ground. During our visit to the tented settlement, UNICEF staff were immediately on the phone mobilising medical care, emergency toilets and purification tablets for safe drinking water. Aisha was brought to a local hospital where her chances of survival were good thanks to being treated in time. It reminded me why I was there and I resolved to return home and tell her story – and those of all the children I met during my visit – in the hope that the situation for the millions of children inside and outside Syria who are affected by this conflict will change for the better. To make a donation to UNICEF Ireland’s Appeal for the Children of Syria visit unicef.ie or call Lo-call 1850 767 999.